\9 ^ V "-> ^^.-^i^' .s^ ^ w IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) .V 1.0 1.1 11.25 2.0 » 1^ FhotogFaphic Sdences Corporation 37 ^. 23 WIST MAIN STRliT WEBSTn,N.Y. 145M (716)«72-4S03 .«*^ CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CIHIVI/ICIViH Collection de microfiches. Canadian Instituta for Historical IMicroraproductions / Inatitut Canadian da microraproductions hiatoriquaa Tachnieai and Bibilographie Notaa/Notaa taehniquaa at bibliographiquaa Tha Inatituta haa attamptad tO obtain tha baat original copy availabia for filming. 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Laa axamplairoo orlginoux dont lo couvorturo on p opior oot ImpHmdo aont fHmdo on commongant par la pramlar plat ot on torminont soit por lo domliro pogo qui comporto uno omprolnto d'Improooion ou d'iNuotrotion. solt por lo toeond plot, Mlon lo 000. Touo loo outroo OHomplolroo orlginoux aont fHmdo on eommon^ont por lo promldro pogo qui eomporto uno omprolnto dimprooalon ou dlNuotrotlon ot on torminont por lo domlAro pogo qui eomporto uno toHo omprolnto. Tho loot roeordod fromo on ooeh •hoN eontain tho aymbol "-^ TINUID"), or tho aymbol ▼ wMolMvor oppHoo. "CON- INO"). Un doo aymiioloo aulvonto apporottro tur lo doml4ro imogo do ehoquo mierofieho, solon lo eao: lo aymbolo -» signiflo "A 8U1VRE", lo •ymbolo ▼ algnlfio "FIN". Mopo, ptotoo, ehorta, ate., may ba fNmod ot dlfforont roduetion rotloa. Thooo too lorgo to bo entirely ineludod in one expoeuro ore filmed beginning in tho upper loft bond eomer, loft to right end top to bottom, oe mony fromee oo required. Tho following diogrome illuotroto tho method: L4M cortoe, plonehoe, tablooun, etc., pouvont Atro fllmdo i dee taux da rMuetion diff dronta. Lorequo lo dooumom oot trop grond pour Atro roprcKluit en un soul cllchd. il eet f llmd A portir do I'onglo eupdriour goueho. do goucho A droito. ot do hout en boo. en prenom lo nombro dimogeo nA c o e eoiro. Lee dlogrommee euhronta illuetront lo mAthode. Brrata to paiura, in a 32X 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 H 27ih Co 3d St J^4' ^ Lieut. Mount Ordmd, Ths Sir: Ir the 2l8t D note a cop the Rocky I resjpectfu the Corps Hjd. W Sir: Ih expedition i the orders Topographi Senate of t Although] roe to say tl Fremont, bi the report, s f cal and bar I tias delayed Hon. J. C 27lh CONORESI, ; *^ 3c/ Session. J / 2 ^t-*^-^ [SENATE] [«48] 1>- t hV "/ rROM THE SECRETARY OF WAR, Communicating y in compliance with a resolution of the Innate, a cony of Lieut. fVemont^s report of hit Exploring Expedition to the Bocky Mountains. March 2, 1843. lUftd, and ordered to be printed. March 3, 1843. Ordtrtd, That nine hundred additional copiae be fumiahed for the ute of the Senate, and hundred copies for the um of tha Topographical Bureau. War Department, March 2, 1843. Sir : In answer to the resolution of the Senate of the United States of the 2l8t December last, requiring " the Secretary of War to send to the Se- nate a copy of Lieut. Fremont's report of his recent exploring expedition to the Rocky Mountains, made under the direction of the War Department," I respectfully transmit herewith the (eport just received from the Colonel of the Corps of Topographical Engineers. Very respectfully, your obedient servant, J. C. SPENCER. Hon. W. P. M.iNGUM, President of the Senate. Bureau of Topographical Engineers, Washington, March 2, 1843. Sir: I have the honor to transmit the report and map of an exploring expedition to the Rocky Mountains, made during the last summer, under the orders of the Department, by Lieut J. C. Fremont, of the Corps of Topographical Engineers, and which was called for by a resolution of the Senate of the 2l8t of last December. Although so much time has elapsed since the calling for the report, allow me to say that it was not owing to any want of industry on the part of Lieut. Fremont, but to the great amount of rnatier which had to be introduced in the report, and the many calculations which had to be made of the astronomi- cal and barometrical observations. The necessary labor on these accounts lias delayed the completion of the report until to-day. Very respectfully, sir, your obedient servant, J. J. ABERT, Colonel Corps of Topographical Engineers. Hon. J. C. Spencer, Secretary of War. , I m i n M a iS A REPORT AN EXPLORATION OF THE COUNTRY LIINO ■■TWIIN PHE MISSOURI RIVER AND THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, CM THC LINK Or THE KANSAS AND GREAT PLATTi: RIVERS. BT XJBUT. J. o. rBBMOsrr, CF TBI C«RPI Qr TOrOCRArillCAL t.VSIINCKRt, WASHINGTON : rKorru) it eaniR or thk vnitbd states' sevate. 1843. ■< r - » iHi*^ m- "n* * ToCc 1 J, Sir. botwoen I tftini, am Wmihing of Now I complett>< Choiiteni mouth of prinn Ch( I inonls foi Bad Mft I 111 Mvera bank of il the weste |wereenal 39° ft' 57' 'meantime I pied in CO jdemeis. n vide our^ I we were ievorythin into its I mount oil performe< I had ( jcipally (> I prairie lif IChnrles F jpnrt of t jliunier, ai [the moun I Louis, w( Clemei 'Ijouis Go (min Cnd( |Morly,Ba I Louis Me iProue. > REPORT. Waiiiinoton, Manh \, 1843. To Col. J. J. Altf.RT, Chief nf the Corpt »/ TopographkeU Kngintera : BtR. Ai^reeabl^ to your orders to explore and report upon the country between the frontier* of Missouri and the ^ outh Pim in the Rooky mouU' I (nint, and on the line of the Kansas and G^eat IMaite riven, 1 lat out from Washington ciiy on the 2U dny uf May, IH42, arrived a* 8t. liouis, by way I of Now York, the 2'id of May, where the necessary preparations were completed, and the expedition commenced. I proceeded in a steamboat to Chouteau's Landing;;, auoiit 4(K) miles by water from 8t. Louis, and near the mouth of ihe Kansas river, whence we proceeded twelve miles to Mr. Cy« ])rian Chouteau's tiading house, where wo completed our final arrange* I monts for Ihj expedition. Bad weather, which interfered with astronomical observations, delayed Ins several davH in the early |)art of June at this post, which is on the right b.-ink of the Kansas river, about ten miles above the mouth and six beyond the western boundary of Missouri. The sky cleared off at length, and we I -were enabled to determine our position, in longitude 94° 3U' 16", and latitude 30° 5' 67". The elevation above the sua is atx>ut 700 feet. Our camp, in the meantime, presented an animated and bustling . pied in completing the necessary arrangements for our campaign in the wil- derness, ana profiting by this short delay on the verge of civilization, to pro- vide ourdolves with all the little essentials to comfort in the Moumdic life I we were to lead for the ensuing summer months. Gradually, however, everything, the materiel of the camp, men, horses, ond even mules, settled into its place, and by the 1 0th we were ready to depart ; but, before we mount our horses, 1 will give a short description of the party with which I performed this service. I had collected in the iini^hborhood of St. Louis twenty-one men, prin* [cipally Oeole and Canadian voyasreurs, who had become familiar with Iprairie life in the service of the fur companies in the Indian country. Mr. jCharles Preuss, a native of Germany, was my assistant in the topographical f)art of the survey. L. Maxwell, of Kaskaskia, had been engaged as lunier, and Christopher Carson, more familiarly known for his exploits in the mountains as Kit Carson, was our guide. The persons engaged in St. I Louis, were: Clement Lambert, J. B. L'Ksperance, J. B. Lof&vre, Benjamin Potra, [Louis Goiiin, J. B. Dtmies, Basil Lajeunesse, Francois Tessier, Benja- imin CodoUe, Joseph Clement, Daniel Simoiuls, Leonard Benoit, Michel (Morly, Bapiiste Bernier. Honore Ayot, Francois Li^ulippe, Franfois Badeau, I Louis Menard, Joseph Ruelle, Moise Chardonnais, Auguste Janisse, Raphael [Proue. iinrnini£. • / / f .*-*" .^' '"^^^K^^ .•' "«*'"*•<* s v»' »■■• *. J' V' <, •v""'.,. ti,!,rn,fl / .r^^^' \l >>|'I I, .11 .IIMir I, ■ ^.,-\iffl^;. W O M •.\jr.M <• r ,N T A , N- ^>f>*-, ( i M I i: v'^^ V 'v.. r.w. <•-» / / ,1^-' \..-y '^& / , ,'7 '»• •**<«l/5 :.^' ^:s <^'^^>><»^, ,y».^ •fi-Jht' ^r^i s ■ ■ V ^.^. % S'\.,IM1S I Mil ■. ^ J S M O r N T A I N<-"* ^^ - - \ 5 d/ ■>..& %^ m ^ ^-'^•^^H^-S^ A. <^'' ..-„3 l..„..,IV.,l, i;v iKii: .l.tM'K'I'lMONT, or iiii: Coinvs or ToiMK.UAfiiK .\i, I. xcix i i.i.'s. I Odd () I II I 'I'll f , I .1 I ■. I II lid .1 I !■ ,1 ;. I 1 o II 1' 111 U .1 I I .1 ,-1 I iiHI s I, Hfi.'i k i'> I ulii ♦ 1" /> [2481 8 In addition to these, Henry Brant, son of Col. J. B. Brant, of St. Lotii«» n young man of nineteen years of age, and Randolph, a lively boy of twelve, son of the Hon. Thomas H. Benton, accompanied me, for the deveU opment of mind and body which such an expedition would give. We were all well armed and mounted, with the exception of eiffht men, who conducted as many carts, in which were packed our stores, with the baggage and instruments, and which were each arawn by two mules. A few loose horses, and four oxen, which had been added to our stock of provisions, completed the train. We sat out on the morning of the 10th, which hap* pened to be Friday, a circumstance which our men did not fail to remember and recall during the hardships and vexations of the ensuing journey. Mr. Cyprian Chouteau, to whose kindness during our stay at his house we were much indebted, accompanied us several miles pn our way, until we met an Indian, whom he had engaged to conduct us on the first thirty or forty miles, where he wtu to consign us to the ocean of prairie, which, we were told, stretched without interruption, almost to the base of the Rocky- Mountains. From the belt of wood which borders the Kanzas, in which we had passed several good looking Indian farms, we suddenly emerged on the prairies, which received us at the outset with some of their striking characteristics; for here and there rode nn Indian, and but a few miles distant, heavy clouds of smeke were rolling bef9re the fire. In about ten miles we reached the Santa Fe road, along which we continued for a short time, and encamped early, on a small stream, having travelled about eleven miles. During our journey, it was the customary practice to encamp un hour or two before sun> set, when the carls were disposed so as to form a sort of barricade around a circle some eighty yards in diameter. I'he tents were pitched, and thfr horses hobbled and turned loose to graze ; and but a few minutes elapsed before the cooks of the messes, of which there were four, were busily en* gaged in preparing the evening meal. At night fall, the horses, mules, and oxen, were driven in, and pickeUed — that is, secured by a halter, of which one end was tied to a small steel-shod picket, and driven into the ground ; the halter being twenty or thirty feet long, which enabled them to obtain a little food during the night. When we had reached a part of the country where such a precaution became necessary, the carts being regularly arranged for defending the camp, guard was mounted at eight o'clock, consisting of three men, who were relieved every two hours ; the morning watch being horse guartl for the day. At daybreak the camp was roused, the animals turned loose to graze, and breakfast generally over between six and seven o'clock, when we resumed our morch, making regularly a halt at noon for one or two hours. Such was usually the order of the day, except when ac- cident of country forced a variation, which, however, happened but rarely. We travelled the next day along the Santa Fe road, which we left in tho afternoon, and encamped late in the evening on a small creek, called by the Indians Mishmagwi. Just as we arrived at camp, one of the horses set off at full speed on his return, and was followed by others. Several men were sent in pursuit, and returned with the fugitives about midnight, with the ex- ception of one man, who did not make liis appearance until morning. He had lost his way in the darkness of the night, and slept on the prairie. Shortly after midnight, it^egan to rain heavily, and as our tents were of light and thin cloth, they oflered but liule obstruction to rain ; we were all well soaked, and glad when morning came. We had a rainy march on the 12tl^ -TX,-, '1 [8481 but the weoiher grew fine ai the doy ndvc'^rmJ. We encamped in a re* markoUy beauiifut Miuniion on the Kfanzan Uluflb, which commanded a fine view of the river valley, here from three to four mile* wide. The central portion was occupied by a broad belt of heavy timber, and nearer the hilU ihe prairies were of the rioliest verdure. One of the oxen was killed here for food. We reached the ford of the Kansas late in the afternoon of the Uth, where the river was two hundred and thirty yards wide, and commenced im<^ mediniely preparations for crossing. 1 had expected to find the river forda- bie, but it had been swollen by the late rains, and was sweeping by with aa angry current, yellow and turbid as the Missouri. Up to this point, the road we had (ravelled was a remarkably fine one, well beaten, and level, the usual road of a prairie country. By our route the ford was one hundred miles from (he mouth of (he Kanzas river. Several mounted men led the way in(o (he streom to swim across. The animals were dnveii in aAer (hem, and in a few minutes all had reached the opposite bank in safety, with the ex- ception of the oxen, which swam some dis(ance down (he river, and relurn* ing to the right bank were not got over until (he next morning. In the mean< time, the carls had been unloaded and dismanded, and an India rubber boat, which I had brought with me for the survey of (he Platte river, placed in the water. The boat was tweniy feet long, and five broad, and on it was placed (he body and wheels of a cart, with the load belonging to it, and three men with paddles. The velociiy of ihe current, and (he inconvenient freight, rendering it dif- ficult to be managed, Basil Lajeunesse, one of our best swimmers, look in his (ee(h a line aitached (o (he boat, and swam ahead in order (o reach a foo(.^ ing as soon as possible, and assist in drawing her over. In this manner, six pas- sages had been successfully made, and as mitny carts with their contents, and a jgreater poriion of the party deposited on the left bank, but night was drawing ear, ond in our anxiety to have all over before (he darkness closed in, I put upon the boat the remaining two carts with their accompanying load. The man at the helm was timid in water, and in his alarm capsized (he boa(. Carts, barrels, boxes, and bales, were in a moment floating down the current^ but oil the men who were on the shore jumped into the water, without stop- ping to ihink if they could swim, and almost every thing, even heavy arti* cles, such as guns and lead, were recovered. Two of the men who could not swim came nigh being drowned, and all (he sugar belonging to one of the messes wasted its swee(s on the muddw waters; but our heaviest loss wns a bag of coffee, which contained nearly all our provision. It was a loss which none but a traveller in a strange and in- hospitable country can appreciate ; and often afterward, when excessive toil and long marching had overcome us wi(h fatigue and weariness, we remem- bered and mourned over our loss in the Kanzas. Carson and Maxwell had been much in the water yesterday, and both in consequence were taken ill. The former continuing so, 1 remained in camp. A number of Kanzas In- dians visited us to-day. Going up to one of the groups who were sca((ered among the trees, I found one sitting on the ground among some of the men, gravely and fluently speaking French, with as much facility and as little em- barrassment as any of my own party, who were nearly all of French origin. On all sides was heard (he strange language of his own people, wild, and harmonizing well with (heir appearance. I listened to him for some time with feelings of strange curiosity and interest. He was now apparently- t 248 ] 10 M thirty*flve years of age ; and, on inquiry, I learned that he had been at St. Lnuii when a hoy, and there had learned the French language. From one of the Indian women 1 obtained a fine cow and calf in exchange for a yoke of oxen. Several of them brought us vegetables, pumpkins, onions, beans, and lettuce. One of ihem brought butler, and from a half-breed near the river 1 had ihe good fortune to obtain some twenty or thirty pounds of cotTee. The dense limber in which we had encamped interfered with ostronomicol observations, and our wet ond damaged stores required exposure to the sun. Accordingly the tenis wotre struck early the next morning, and, leaving camp nt six o'clock, we moved about seven miles up the river to a handsome, open firairie some twenty feet above the water, where the fine gross atForded a uxurious repast to our horses. During the day we occupied ourselves in making astronomical obscrva- tions, in order to lay down the country to this place, it being our custom to keep up out map regularly in the field, which we found attended with many advanlnges. The men were kept busy in drying the provisions, painting the carl covers, ond otherwise completing our equipoge, until the afternoon, when powder was distributed to them, and they spent some hours in firing nt mark. We were now fairly in the Indian country, and it began to be time to prepare for the chances of ihe wilderness. Friday^ June 17. — The weather yesterday hod not permitted us to moke (he observations I wos desirous to obtain here, ond I therefore did not move today. The people contihued their target firing. In the sleep bank of the river hero were nests of Innumerable swoIIowh, into one of which o large proirie snake hod got about half \\\a body, and wos occupied in eating the voung birds. The old ones were Hying about in great distress, dorting at )iim, and vainly endeavoring to drive him off. A shot wounded him, and, being killed, he was cut open, ond eighteen young swoUows were found in his body. A sudden storm that burst upon us in the ofternoon cleared awoy in a brilliant sunset, followed by a cteor night, which enobled ua to de* termine our position in longitude 96° 1(V 06", and in lotitude 30° 06' 4()'[. A parly of emigrants to tiie Columbia river, under the charge of Dr. While, an agent of the Government in Oregon Territory, were about three weeks in advance of us. They consisted of men, women, and children. There were eixty-fuur men and sixteen or seventeen families. They had a considerable number of cattle, ond were transporting their holisehold furniture in lorge heavy wagons. I understood that there had been much sickness among them, ond that they had lost several children. One of the party who had tost his child, and whose^wife was very ill, had left them about one hundred miles hence on the prairies; and as a hunter who had accompanied them visited our camp this evening, we availed ourselves of his return to the Stoles to write to our friends. The morning of the 18th wos very unpleasant. A fine roin wos falling, with cold wind fiom the north, and mists mode the river hills look dark ond gloomy. We left our camp ot. seven, journcyiHg along the foot of the hills which border the Kansas valley, generally about three miles wide, and ex* treinely rich. We halted for dinner, after o morqh of about thirteen miles, on the banks of one of the mony little tributaries to the Kansds, which look like trerrches m the prairie, and are usually well timbered. After crossing this stream, I rode off some miles to the left, attracted by the appeoronce of a cluster of huts near the mouth of the Vermillion. It was o large but de- serted Kansas village, scattered in an open wood along the margin of the|9U stream, oi scenery, houses w dy geiiini I reuched western s evening cat observ 15' 19". We br( ment earl ting the ri generally oouldera four or fiv All plants enlivened occasional country. Ihe head eral tine s try — hero votion op The nigh 46°, baron latitude 31 The m< sky, and t ther more siliceous li thickly stn aliens grev tected fron they flourii charocteris rich bolton tnnber. R miles, we i em side, n This is a c wide, runn antelope w a fine deer, ter, at suns place to a | miles, we I pools. In about one of water, cated the h and the da '° Alor 11 t«4«] lind been nt St. ige. From one r\n^o for a yoke I, unions, benni, f-breed near the lounds of cofiee. th aatronomicol •sure to the sun. d, leaving cnmp hondsotne, open grass afForded a lomical observa- ; our custom to [ided with many visions, painting it the afternoon, e hours in firing id it began to be itted us to make »re did not move leop bank of the )f which a large ied in eating the stress, darling at Linded him, and, }ws were found fternoon cleared nabled us to de- e 30° 06' 40". ge of Dr. White, t three weeks in n. There were d a considerable irniture in large ess among them, who had lost his e hundred miles ed them visited to the Stales to rain was falling. Is look dark and foot of the hills 28 wide, and ex- t thirteen miles, nsas, which look After crossing ie appearance of J a large but de- e margin of the stream, on a spot chosen with the customary Indian fondness for beauty of scenery. The Pawnees had attacked it in the early spting. Some of the houses were burnt, and others bincknncd with smoke, and weeds were alrea* dy getting possession of the cleared places. Riding up the Vermillion river, I reuchedtne ford in time to meet the carts, and crossing, encamped on its western side. The weather continued cool, the thermometer being this evening as low as 4*.F, but the night was sufHciently cledr for astronomi> cal observations, which placed us in longitude %° 3b' 40" and latitude 39° 15' 19". At sunset the oarometcr was at 28,845, ihermomeier G4°. We breakfasted the next morning ut half past five, and left our encamp- ment early. The morning was cool, the thermometer being at 45°. Quit- ting the river bottom, the road ran along the uplands over a rolling country, generally in view of the Kansas, from eight to twelve miles distant. Many large boulders of a very compact sandstone of various shades of red, some of them four or five tons in weight, were scattered along the hills ; and many beauti* Ail plants in fiower, among which the amorpha canescetis was a characteristic, enlivened the green of (he prairio. At the heads of the ravines I remarked occasionally thickets of sahx lotigifolia^ the most common willow of th© country. We travelled nineteen miles, and pitched our tents at evening on the head waters of a small creek, now nearly dry, but having in its bed sev- eral fine springs. The barometer indicated a considerable rise in the coun- , try — hero about fourteen hundred feel above the sea — and the increased ele- vation appeared already to have some slight infiuence upon the vegetation. The night was cold, with a heavy dew, the thermometer ui ten standing at 46°, barometer 28,483. Our position was in longitude 96° 48' 05", and latitude 39° 30' 40". The morning of the 20ih was fine, with a southerly breeze and a bright sky, and at 7 o'clock we were on the march. The country today was ra- ther more broken, rising still, and covered every where with fragments of siliceous limestone, pariiculaily on the summits, where they were small, and thickly strewed as pebbles on the shore of the sea. In these exposed 8itu> ations grew but few plants ; though, whenever (he soil was good und pro- lected from the windd, in the creek bottoms and ravines, and on the slopes, they flourished abundantly; among them, the amorpha still retaining its characteristic place. Wo crossed, at 10, the Big Vermillion, which has a rich bottom of about one mile in breadth, one third of which is occupied by timber. Making our usual halt at noon, after a day's march of twenty-four miles, we reached the Big Blue, and encamped on the uplands of the west- ern side, near a small creek, where was a fine large spring of very cold water. This is a clear und handsome stream, about one hundred and twenty feet wide, running with a rapid current through a wpII limbered valley. Today, antelope were seen running over the hills, and ai evening, Caison brought us a fine deer. Long, of the camp, 97° 06' 58", lut. 39° 45' OS". Thermome- ter, at sunset, 75°. A pleasant southerly breeze and fine morning had given place to a gale, with indications of had weather, when, afier a march of ten miles, we halted to noon on a small creek, where the water stood in deep pools. In the bank of the creek, limestone made its appearance in a stratum about one foot thick. In the afternoon, the people seemed to suffer for want of water. The road led along a high dry ridge ; dark lines of timber indi- cated ihe heads of streams in the plains below, but there was no water near, and the day was very oppressive, with a hot wind, and the thermometer at yO°. Along our route, the amorpha has been in very abundant but variable 1 [«48] 19 I M bltioin : in lome pliCM, bending beneath the weight of purple cluelera; ii» oihen, without n flower. It leeme to lovn Uvai ihe lunny liopee, with m dark wil out! M)uihern expuaure. Kvery where tli« ruae is nut with, and reiiiind« ui of cuhivated ganlenn and civilixaiion. It ii icatiered over the proirioa in miiall ItiNMiiinia, and when ghttering in ihn dewa and waving in the plfiawni biovzo o( ilio onrly morning, ia tiia moat Inmutiful of the prairie flowers. The arttmisia^ abeiiiihe, or prairie rage, na it ia vniioualy called, ia I iricrnuiing in aiise, and giitiera \'\ko ailver, iia the auulhern breexe turna up ita | Icitvfa lu the aun. All ihoao plania have thuir inacci inhabitaula. variouaiy colored ; tiikini^ gencrully tho hue of the flower on which ihey live. The j artemma hiia Ha amall fly acroniniati dcvsort. As fast us they arrived, men and horses I rushed into the stream, where they baihcd and drank together in common enjoyment. We were now in the range of iho Pownees, who were accus- tomed to infest this part of the country, stealing horses from companies on their way lotlic mountains, and when in sunicieiit force openly attacking ond plundering them, and sul>jecting them to various kinds of insult. For the first tiniejihercfore, guard was moinited to night. Our route the next morn- ing lay up tlic valley, which, bordered by hills willi graceful slopes, lookedl uncomonly green and beautiful. The stream was about fifty feet wide and threel pl« oliMlera; ii» y ilopM, wUh ft ■ ntrl with, Biicl lUored over iho 1(1 wnving in the il uf ilie prairie liuiiily ciuled, i» •eze (urni up il* litouu, variouciy iliey live. The hniige of elevo* ulteromi^ I have L'arly rutembliitg )y the inolion of gruiila rcUevea a I) of iwunty'two r their encnmp* iiig more anndy^ , reals liere on a Evening cIomU , with which we iry very unuiual from our cow. ;. Our middoy srous boulders of imdatone ol ready I, innrkcd nn en- Df ilio day when ravines near the •receding night. with clear water stream, obout I ho does fre* )mo very sandy, Df the amorpha^ has been found tvater was (o be on the adjacent We made here a of twcnly-eight tir arrival made Hen and horses her in common ho were accus- conipanies on y attacking ond isult. For the the next morn slopes, looked bt wide and three a IS [«48] or four deep, fringed hy cotton wood nnd willow, with frequent grovee of oaIc lenanlrd by tluckii of Turkeys. Unnie here, too, mnde its appearance in greater plenty. KIk were frequently seen on the hills, nnd now and then an nntelope houiuied acroM our path, or a deer broke from thk grovet. The road in the afternoon woi over the upper prairies, leveml miles ttwn the river,and we encamped at sunaet on one of Its small tribuiariea,where an abund- ance of nrAle (etfuitetutn) oflimled flne forage to our tired animals. We had travelled thirty one miles. A henvv bank of black clouds in the west came on us in a storm between nine and ten, preceded by a violent wind. The ndn fell in such torrents that it was dimcult to breathe facing the wind, the thimder rolled inceasanlly, and the whole sky was tremulous with lightning ; now and then illuminated by a blinding flash, succeeded b? puchy (larkness. Caraon had the watch from ten to midnight, nnd to him had been assigned our young eompagnona de voyage, Messrs. Brant and R. Denton. This was their first nigtit on guard, nnd such an introduction did not nugur very auspiciously of the pleasures of the expedition. Many things conspired to render their situation uncomfortable ; stories of desperate and bloody Indian flghts weie rife in the camp ; our position was bnuly chosen, surrounded on all sides by timbered hollows, and occupying an area of several hundred feet, so that neceasarily the guards were far apart ; and now and then I could hear Randolph, as if relieved by the sound of n voice in the darkness, calling out to the sergeant of the guard, to direct his attention to some imoginary alarm ; but they stood it out, and took their turn regidarly aAerwnrd. The next morning we had a specimen of the false alarms to which all parties in these wild regions are subject. Proceeding up the valley, objects were seen on the opposite hills, which disappeared before a glass could be brought to bear upon them. A man who was a short distance in the rear came spurring up in great hnsle, shouting Indians! Indians! He had been near enough to see and count them, according to his report, and had made out twenty-seven. I immediately hailed, arms were examined and put in order; the usual preparations mnde ; and Kit Carson, springing upon one of the hunting horses, crossed the river, and walloped off into the opposite pritiries to obtain some certain intelligence of their movements. Mounted on a fine horse, without n saddle, and scouring bareheaded over the prairies, Kit was one of the finest pictures of a horseman I have ever seen. A short time enabled him to discover that the Indion war party of twenty-seven consisted of six elk, who had been gazing curiously at our caravan as it possed by, and were now scampering olT ot full speed. This was our first alarm, and its excitement broke agreeably on the monotony of the day. At our noon hall, the men were exercised at a target, nnd in the evening we pitched our tents at a Pawnee encampment of last July. They had apparently killed buflfalo here, as manv bones were lying about, and the frames where the hides had been stretched were yet standing. The road of the day had kept the valley, which is sometimes rich and well timbered, Uiough the country is generally sandy. Mingled with the usual plonts, a thistle {mrduus UucSgraphus) had for the last day or two made iu appear- ance ; and along the river bottom, tradescantia {virginka) and milk plant (asclepias syriaea*), in considerable quantities. * "This plant h verr o«Iorir«row, and in Canada charms Uie traTSller, Mpeeially whca I passing through woodii in the evening. The French there eat the tender shoots in spring, m w do asparagus. The natives make a sugar of the flowers, gathering them in the fltontiog m [Wl] 14 y I I/' Our innrch lo dny hat) b«en lwenly tation. Cocti were numerous, and nil the plimts of the region appeared to dourish among the wurin hills. Among thoin the amorp/ia, in full bloom, was remarkable for its largo and luxuriant purple clusters. From the foot of the coast, a distance of two miles acroM the level bottom brought us to our encampment on (hn shore of the river, about twenty miles below the head of Grand island, which lay extended before us, covered with dense and heavy woods. From the mouth of the Kansas, according to our reckoning, we had travelled three hundred and twenty-eight miles, and the geological formation of the country we hnd passed over, consisted of lime and sand- stone, covered by the aanie erratic deposile of sand and gravel which formn the surface rock of the prairies lietween the Missouri and Mississippi rivers ; except in some occasional limestone boulders, 1 had met with no fossils. The elevation of the Platte valley above the sea is here about two thousand feet. The astronomical observations of the night placed us in longitude 99° 17' 47", Intiiudo 40° 41' 06". June 27. — The animals were somewhat fatigued by their march of yes- terday, ond after a short journey of eighteen miles along the river bottom, I encamped near the head of Ciinnd island, in longitude, by obsjirvation, 99° 37' 45", latitude 40° 39' 32". The soil here was light but rich, though in some places rather sandy ; and, With the exception of a scattered fringe along the bank, the timber, consisting principally of poplar (populua monilifera), elm, and hackberry {ceUis crasiifolia)^ is confined almost entirely to the ialands. June 28. — We halted to noon at an open reach of the river, which occu- pies rather more than a fourth of the valley, here only about four miles broad. when they are covered witn dew, and collect the cotton from the pods to ftll their beds. On account of the silkiness of this cotton, Parkinson calls the plant Virginian silk." — /..oudon^s Emewiloptdia of PUmtf. The Sioux Indians of the Upper Platte eat the young pods of this plant, boiling them with the meat of the butfaio. MronomicAl ob- nd Imitude AiP l^ And in About ihAt river. And dividing ridn, t repoMs. 'liie >ut fflw plnnu, I kind of dwarf iiig, which WAA wt^n around u» r ihoni, n llMh, pmiria within n OS, wfl reAchfld, At is cnlled lh« in th« diatAuce ^ero found to be orked ihe Mnd. V, and Irardered fen. ChAngfl of tigu in the vege* ion appeared to I, in (ml bloom, From the foot 1 brought us to miles below the I with dense and 9 our reckoning, id the geological lime and sand- rel which formn itisissippi rivers ; with no fossils. Lit two thousand us in longitude marcli of yes- river bottom, I Qbs^rvnlion, 99° rich, though in red fringe along lua monili/era), entirely to the rer, which occu- bur miles broad. ftlltheir beds. On ian »llk."— /^lelon'j t, boiling them with 16 [ 848 ) Thn rnmp had l>«an dUnoMd with the usuaI pfacAuiion, lh« horsM |rAiiiig III n liiiitt distance uiieuued by (ha guard, anu wa were uU silling quMiliy at our dinner on ih« griiM, when suudonly we heord ihe startliiig cry. " tht maiide /" In an insiani, every man's weApon was in hi* hAnu| %\\p norsM were driven in, hobbled and pickeited. And honemen were galloping at full ii|)eed in the direction of the new comers, screaming and yelling with (ha wildest exciteiiienf. " (i«l ready, my lads !" said the leoder of (he approach- ing puny lu his men, whcR our wild looking horsemen were discovered bearing down upon them ; " noui aliont attraper d*$ eouM tit b^uttlt.** They proved to be a small porty of fourteen, under the charge of a man named John Lee, and with (heir baggage and provisions siniiiped (o (heir backs, were making their way on fool (o (he fioulier. A brief Account of their fortunes will give some idea of navigation in the Ni^braska. Sixiy day* since they had left the mouih of Laraniie's fork, some three hundred mile* Above, in barges bden with the furs of ihe American Fur CompAuy. They tiiaried with the annual flood, and drawing but nine inches water, hoped to maks u H|M!ody and prosperous voynge lo St. Lquis ; but, after u lapse of forty days, found themselves only one hundred and thirty milrs from their point of dnpartiiro. They cume down rapidly as far as Scott's bluH's, where ilieir diinciiliies began. Soinoiimos they came uptm places whore the water was spread over a great nxlonl, and hvro ihuy toiled from morning until nighty endeavoring to drog their boat through the B(uids, inoking only two or three niles in as many duya. Sometimes they would enter an arm of the river, where ihoio appeared u Hiiu channel, and after defending prosperously for eight or ten miles, would come suddenly U|K)ii drv sunds, and bo compelled to rutiirii, dragging ihoir boat for days against the rapid current ; and tit odiers, they came upon places where die wulor lay in holes, and getting out lo float oflT their boat, would fall into wainr up to their nocks, and the next moment tumble over oguinsi n sandbar. Discouraged at length, and flnding (he Platte growing every day more shallow, (Itcy discharged (he princijml par( of their cargoes one hundred and thirty miles below Fort Larainiu» which they securud as well an possible, and leuvins a few men to guard them, attempted to continue their voyage, laden with some light fun and their personal baggage. After fifteen or twenty days more s(ruggling in (he sands, during which they made but one hundred und forty miles, they sunk their barges made a cache of their remaining furs and property, in trees on the bank, and packing on his back what each man could carry, had com- menced, the day before wo encountered them, their journey on foot to Sr. Louis. Wo laughed then at their forlorn and vagabond appearance, and in oui turn a month or two afterward furnished th6 same occasion for merriment to others. Even thoir stock of tobacco, that sine qua non of a voyageWy without which the night fire is gloomy, was entirelv exhausted. However,, we shortened their homeward journey by a small supply from our own provision. They gave us the welcome intelligence that the Buflialo were abundant some two days march in advance, and made us a present of some choice pieces, which were a rery acceptable change from our salt pork. In the interchange of news, And the renewal of old Acquaintanceships, we found wherewithal to fill a bitsy hour, then we mounted our horses, and they shouldered their packs, and we shook hands and parted. Amons^ them, I had found an old companion on the northern prairie, a hard- ened and hardly served veteran of the mountains, who had been as. tS48] 16 miiah hftcked And •c«rr«d m an aM mMttiitfht of Nanoli^on'a "old frimrd." j lie ttoiirith«d in lti« M)utiriqu«4 of Iiii Tiilipe, nnd lilt real numt I rit^vrr j kntw. Findinn that h« wu foing lo lh« Stain only Iwcniiie hia company waa bonnd in lltni dirvctlon, nnd ilial ha wai ralhar niora wilting (o raiiirn with MN>, I look him again into my larvict. We inivallad ihii day but j jeventaan milra. Al our tvaning camp, nl)out aiinMl, three (Iffttrea were di«;oyer«N| ap' fmaching, which onr gin*-)*!* made out lo be Inaiani. Th^y proved to be I (yheyennea, two men and a boy of thirtren. About n month aince ihey had left their (leople on the aonth fork of iha river, aomo thrre hundred niilea to the weatward, and a party of only four in number, had been to the Pawnee villngrs on a horao atcaling exciiraion, from which they were rrturning uniuccetaful. They were tniaembiy mouniod on wild horaea from tho Arkanaaa plaina, and nad no other wea|ionB than l)OWi and long apean; and had thry lM*en diacoveri'd by the Pawnuei, could not, by nny poaaibility, have cacnpoit. They were mortified by their ill aueceaa,! and aaid the Piiwnrea were cownrda who ahut up their horaea in their lodgeal at night. I invited them lo aupper with me, nnd Randolph and the young Cheyenne, who had been eyeing each other auapicioualy nnd curioualy.l arion liocame intimate frienda. Afler auppor wo aat down on the graaa, andl 1 placed a aheet of paper Iwtwuen ua, on which thoy trnccd rudely, buti with a certain degree of relative truth, the water rouriea of tho couniryl which lay lietween u^ nijd their villogoa, and of which I desired lo havel acme information. Their companiona, they told ua, had taken a nenretl route over the hilla, but thev had mounted one of the aummita to apy outi 4he country, whence they haa caught a glimpae of our party, and conndentl of good treatment at the handa of the whites, hastened to join company! Latitude of the camp AOP 30' 51". \ We made the next morning sixteen miles. I remarked that the grounij was covered in many placet with an effloreicenco of salt, and the plant were not numerous. In the bottoms was freqently tnn^tradeseantia, and on the dry lenches, were earduus^ eactua, and arnorpha. A high wind during the morning had increased lo a violent gale from the northwest] •which made our aftuinoon ride cold and unplensan't. We had the welcor aight of two bufflito on one of the largo islands ; nnd encamped at a clump or timber about seven miles from our noon halt, after a days mach of twenty-j (wo miles. Tlie air was keen tho next morning at sunrise, the thermometer standin|i at 44°, and it was Bufficiontly cold lo mnke overcoats very comfortable, few miles brought us into tho midst of the Buffalo, swarming in immena numbers over the plains, where they had left scarcely a blade of gra fftundinsr. Mr. Preuss, who was sketching ot a little distance in the rear] had at first noted them cs large groves of timber. In the sight of such mass of life, the traveller feels a strange emotion of grandeur. We had lieard from a distance a dull and confused murmuring, and when we came in view of their dark masses, there was not one among us who did not feel hid heart beat quicker. It was the early part of the day, when the herds art^ feeding ; and oTcry where they were in motion. Here ond there a huge] old bull was rolling in the grass, and clouds of dust rose in the air front ] various parts ofthe oginds, each the scene of some obstinate fight. Indiamj and bumlo make the poetry and life of the prairie, nnd our camp was full- of their ezhiliration. In place of the quiet monotony of the march, raj 17 [«4«1 liflvml only by iIm rrnokinf ut tlw whij). nml «n "aimnni tkne f tnfmnt dt gure* f* ihiMiU and tonfft rMrmndod (r )m • v«ry |Ntrt of ih«i iiim, mid our «iv«nin|| camp wa« always the rort);?}«nc«m«ni (?f « f««il, wliifh mriiiinaiMl oiilv with our (UpartiirM i>^ 'hn folu^w'tif inornintf. At any i tiM of ili<* nignl m\gUi Im •««wi piect^ of '>^ nuitt ddictiiff and clioicMt tnant, miuMing \ en appoltu, ou itlck< nroiiiid the fir« nnd ilin ^imrd wcro itnvnr withoiil I company. With pIcoMiit w«nilit*r otwi no enaniy to foar, t\.i Ahiitidanca of the iiuMt excallent mmaI, nnd no •ctrciiy o( brand or IoImcco, ihejr wtre an* joying the noais of i voya|r«ur'« lifn. Thrt« rows were kilird today. Kit Carton hod iliolone, and waa cnniinning ih« cIiom in tli« iiikUi of another hard, whon hit honM fall haadlong, hut sprang up and joined (he flying tMUid. Though contidemhly hurt, ho hnd thn good tbrtuno to hrealc no bones, nnd Maswall, who was nuiuntod on nrieot hunter, captured the run* away nfter a hard chase, lie was on the point of shooting him to avoid the loss of his bridle, a handsomely inoiintiyl Himninh one, wlieti he found that his horM was able to como up with him. Animals am ireqiieiitly lo«t in Ihif iway, and it is necctiiAry tn keep close watch over them, in the vicinity of Ithe bulfalo, in the midst of winch they iicour otf to the plainn, and are rareljr Iretoken. One of our mules timk n aiidden freak into his head and joined la neighboring band todny. Ai we were not in a condition to lose hories, I I sent several men in pursuit and remained in camp, m the hope of recov* jring him, but loet (he afternoon to ni purpone, ns we did not see him |4igain. Astronomical observations placed us in longitude 100^ '3H' \Qf', ] latitude 4U^ AW 55". Jul^ I. — Along our rood lodoy the prairie bottom was more elevated and Idry, ond the hitU which border the right side of the river higher and more broken and picturesque in the outline. The country too was better tim* bered. Aa we were riding quifily nlnng the bank, a grnnd herti of buflolo, some seven or eight hundred in number, came crowding up from (he river, I where thev hnd been (o drink, and commenced crossing (he plain slowly, eating as they went. The wind was favorable, the coolness of the morning invited to exercise, (he ground wn^ apparently good, and (he distance across ihe prairie, two or three miles, gave \» a fine opportunity (o charge (hem be- fore they could get among the river hilla. It wns too fine n pro«pec( for a chose (o be loa(, and, halting for n few momenta, the hunters were brought up and saddled, and Kit Cnraon, Maxwell, and I, started together. They were now somewhat leas than half a mile distant, ond we rode eavily olong until within about three hundred yards, when n sudden ogitniion, o waver* ing in the bond, nnd a galloping to and fro of some whion were acottered along the skirts, gave ua (he inliniuiion iha( we were diacovered. We started ogether at a hand gallop, riding ateodily obreoat of each other, and here tba interest of (he chose became so engroeaingly intense, that we were sensible (o nothing eUe. We were now closing upon (hem rapidly, and the front of he mass wai already in rapid motion for the hilla, and in a few seconds the movement had communicated itself to the whole herd. A crowd of bulls, as usual, brought up the reor, and every now and then me of them fuccd about, and then dashed on after the band o short dia> tonce, and turned and looked ogain, ns if more than half inclined to stand and fight. In a few moments, however, during which we had been quick* ening our pace, the rout wns universal, and we were going over the ground like n hurricane. When at about thirty yards we save the usual shout, the hunters pas dt ehargt, ond broke into the herd. We entered on the side, '4 m\ hi [«48] 19 (be nMM giving way in every direcCion in their heedlcM course. Many of (he btilLs, leai active end less fleet than the cows, paying no attention to (he ground, and occupied solely with the hiinfer, were precipitated to the earth with great force, rolling over and over with the violence of (he shock, and hardly dis(inguishable in the dust. We scpura(ed on entering, each singling out his game. My horse was a trained hunter, famous in the west, under the name of Proveau, and with his eyes flashing, and the foam flying from his mouth,, •prang on after the cow like a tiger. In a few moments he brought me alongside of her, and rising in the stirrups, I fired at the distance of a yard, the ball entering ul the termination of the long hair, and passing near the heart. She fell headlong at the report of the gun, and checking my horse, I looked around for my companions. At a little distance Kit was on the ground, engaged in tying his horse to the horns of a cow which he was pre- paring to cu( up. Among the scattered bands at some distance belov/ f caught a glimpse of Maxwell ; and while I was looking, a .ight wreath of white smoke curled away from his gun, of which I was too far to hear the report. Nearer, and between me and the hills, towards which they were directing their course, was the .body of the herd, and giving my horse the rein, we dashed after them. A thick cloud of dust hung upon their rear, which filled my mouth and eyes, and nearly smothered me. In the midst of this I could see nothing, and the buflalo were not distinguishable until within thirty feet. They crowded together more densely still as I came upon (hem and rushed along in such a compact body that I could not obtain an entrance — the horse almost leaping upon them. In a few moments the mass divided to the right and left, the horns clattering with a noise heard above every thing else, and my horse darted into the opening. Five or six bull» charged on us as we dashed along the line, but were left far behind, and singling out a cow, I gave her my fire, but struck too high. She gave a tremendous leap, and scoured on swifter than before. I reined up my horse,, and the band swept on like a torrent, and left the place quiet and clear. Our chase had led us into dangerous ground. A prairie-dog village so thickly settled that there were three or four holes in every twenty yards square, occupied the whole bottom for nearly two miles in length. Looking around, I saw only one of the hunters, nearly out of sight, and the long dark line of out caravan crawling along ihree or four miles distant. After a march of twenty-four miles, we encamped at nightfall, one mile and a half above (he lower end of Brady's island. The breadth of this arm of th riety of huusehold urricles were scattered about, and they had probably dis* burdened themselves here of many things not absolutely necessary. I had left the usual road before the mid-day halt, and in the afternoon, having sent several men in advance to reconnoitre, marched directly for the mouth of the South fork. On our arrival, the horsemen vt ere sent in and scattered about the liver to search the best fording places, and the carls followed immediately. The stream is here divided by an island into two channels. The southern is four hundred and uily feet wide, having eighteen or twenty inches water in the deepest places. With the exception of a few dry bars, the bed of the river is generally quicksands, in which the carts bei^an to sink rapidly so soon as the mules halted, so that it was necessary to keep them consUtntly ia motion. The northern channel, 2,250 feet wide, was somewhat deeper, having fre- quently three feet water in the numerous small channels, with a bed of coarse gravel. The whole breadth of the Nebraska, immediately below the junc- tion, ia 5,350 feet. All our equipage had reached the left bunk safely at six o'clock, tniving today made twenty miles. We encamped at the point of land immediately at the junction of the North and South forks. Between the streams is a low rich prairie, extending from their confluence 18 miles westwardly to the bordering hills, where it is 5^ miles wide. It is covered with a luxuriant growth of grass, and along the banks is a slight and scattered fringe of cottonwood and willow. In the buffalo trails and wallows, i re- marked saline efflorescences, to which a rapid evaporation in the great heat of the sun probably contributes, as the soil is entirely unprotected by timber. In the vicinity of these places, there was a bluish grass, which the cattle refuse to eat, called by the voyageurs " /lerbe salee,'" (salt grass.) The lati- tude of the junction is 41° 4' 47", and longitude by chronometer and lunar distances, 101° 21' 24'. The elevation above the sea is about 2,700 feet. The hunters came in with a fat cow, and, as we had labored hard, we en- joyed well a supper of roasted ribs and boudvis^ the chef Wceuvre of a prairie cook. Mosquitoes thronged about us this evening ; but by 10 o'clock, when the thermometer had fallen to 47°, they had all disappeared. jidy 3. — As this was to be a point in our homeward journey, I made a •oc'Ae (a term used in all this country for what is hid in the grounds of a bar- rel of pork. It was impossible to conceal such a proceeding from the tiharp eyes of our Cheyenne companions, and I therefore told them to go and see what it was they were burying. They would otherwise have not failed to return and destroy our cache, in expectation of some rich booty ; but pork they dislike and never eat We left our camp at 9, cunlinuing up the South fork, the prairie bottom affording us a fair road ; but in the long grass we roused myriads of mosquitoes and flies, from which our hur^es siilleied se- verely. The day was smoky, with a pleasant breeze from i!ie soiiili, and the plains on the opposite side were covered with buiralo. Huviri'^ travelled twenty-five miles we encamped at G in the evcnin<;, and the whtix were sent across the river for wood, as there is none here on tlie left bank. Oiii' fires [243] 20 were pnriially mnde of the lots de vachty the dry excrement of the buflalo, which like that of the camel in the Arobian deserts, furnishes to the traveller n very good substitute for woo water" served out to the men. While we were at breakfast, a buffalo calf broke through the camp, followed by a couple of wolves. In its fright, it had probably mistaken us for a band of buffalo. The wolves were obliged (0 make a circuit around the camp, so that the calf got a little the start, and strained every nerve to reach a large herd at the foot of the hills, about two miles distant ; but first one and then another and another wolf joined in the chace, until his pursuers amounted to twenty or thirty, and they ran him down before he could reach his friends. There were a few bulls near the place, and one of them attacked the wolves and tried to rescue him ; but was driven off immediately, and the little animal fell an easy prey, half devoured before he was dead. We watched the chace with the interest always felt for the weak, and had there been a saddled horse at hand, he would have fared better. Leaving camp, our road soon approached the hills in which strata of a marl like that of the chimney rock, hereafter described, make their appear- ance. It is probably of this rock that the hills, on the right bank of the Platte, a little below the junction, are composed, and which are worked by the winds and rains into sharp peaks and cones, giving them, in contrast to the surrounding level region, something of a picturesque appearance. We crossed this morning numerous beds of the small creeks, which in the time of rains and melting snow, pour down from the ridge, bringing down with them always great quantities of sand and gravel, which have gradually raised their beds four to ten feet above the level of the prairie which they cross, making each one of them a miniature Po. Raised in this way above the sur- rounding prairie, without any bank, the long yellow and winding line of their beds resembles a causeway from the hills to the river. Many spots on the prairie are yellow with sunflower ( helianthus. ) As we were riding slowly along this afternoon, clouds of dust in the rav- ines, among the hills to the right, suddenly attracted our attention, and in a few minutes column after column of buffalo came galloping down, inalcing directly to the river. By the time the leading herds had reached the water, the prairie was darkened with the dense masses. Immediately before us, when the bands first came down into the valley, stretched an unbroken line, the head of which was lost among the river hills on the opposite side, and still they poured down from the ridge on our right. From hill to hill the prairie bot- tom was certainly not less than two miles wide, and allowing the animals to lie ten feet apart, and only ten in a line, there were already ll,UOO in view. Some idea may thus be formed of their number when they had occupied the whole plain. In a short time they surrounded us on every side, extending for several miles in the rear, and forward, as far as the eye could reach, leav- ing around us as we advanced, an open space of ooly two or three hundred yards. This movement of the buffalo indicated to us the presence of In- dians on the North fork. I hulled enrlier than usual, about forty miles from the junction, and all hands were soon busily engaged ia preparing a feast to celebia'e the day. tl [2481 half devoured I The kindness of our friends At St. Louis had provided us with a large sup> ply of excellent preserves and lich fruit cake ; and when these were added to a macaroni soup and variously prepared dishes of the choicest buffalo meat, crowned with a cup of coffee, and enjoyed with prairie appetite, we felt, as we sat in barbaric luxury around our smoking supper on the grass, a greater sensation of enjoyment than the Roman epicure at his perfumed feast. But roost of all it seemed to please our Indian friends, who in the unrestrained joyment of the moment, demanded to know if our " Medicine days came often." No restraint xvaa exercised at the hospitable board, and, to the great delight of his elders, our jruung Indian lad made himself extremely drunk. Our encampment was within a few niHesof the place where the road cros8(;S to the North fork, and various reasons led me to divide my party at this point. The North fork was the principal object of my survey, but I was desirous to ascend the South branch, with a view of obtaining some astronomical positions, and determining the mouths of its tributaries as far as St. Vrain's fort, estimated to be some two hundred miles further up the river, and near to Long's peak. There I hoped to obtain some mules, which I found would be necessary to relieve my horses. In a military point of view. I was desirous to form some opinion of the country relative to the establishment of posts on a line conncctino; the settlements with the South pass of the Rocky mountains, by way of the Arkansas, the South and Laramie forks of the Platte. Crossing the country northwestwardly from St. Vrain's fort, to the American company's fort at the mouth of Laramie, would give me some acquaintance with the affluents which head in the mountains be- tween the two ; I therefore determined to set out the next morning, ac« companied by Mr. Preuss and four men. Maxwell, Bernier, Ayot, and Basil Lajeunesse. Our Cheyennes, whose village lay up this river, also decid- ed to accompany us. The party I left in charjre of Clement Lambert, with orders to cross to the North fork ; and at some covenient place, near to the Coulee des Prenes, make a cache of every thing not absolutely necessary to the further progress of our expedition. From this point, using the most guarded precaution in his march through the country, he was to proceed to the American company's fort at the mouth of Laramie's fork, and await my arrival, which would be prior to the 16th, as on that and the following night would occur some occultations which I was desirous to obtain at that place. July 5. — Before breakfast all was ready. We had one led horse in ad- dition to those we rode, and a pack mule,(lestined to carry our instruments, provisions, and baggage ; the last two articles not being of very great weight. The instruments consisted of a sextant, artificial horizon, d&c, a barometer, spy-glass, and compass. The chronomoter I of course kept on my person. I had ordered the cook to put up for us some flour, coffee, and sugar, and our rifles were to furnish the rest. One blanket, in addi- tion to his saddle and saddle blanket, furnished the materials for each man's bed, and every one was provided with a change of linen. All were armed with rifles or donble barrelled guns; and, in addition to these, Max- well and myself were furnished with excellent pistols. Thus accoutred, we took a parting breakfast with our friends, and set forth. Our journey the first day afforded nothing of any interest. We shot n buffalo toward sunset, and having obtained some meat for our even- ing meal, encamped where a little timber afforded us the means of making a fire. Having disposed our meat on roasting slicks, we proceeded to uu- \ I [248] 22 \v !^' pack our baled in ecarch of cofTue and siignr, and flour for bread. Witli the exception of a littlo parched coflbo, unffround, we found nothing. Our cook had neglected to put it up, or it had been somehow forgotten. Tired and hungry, with toudi bull meat without salt, for we hud not beea able to kill a cow, and a little bitter coffee, we sat down in silence to our miserable fore, a very disconsolate party ; for yesterday's feast was yet fresh in our memories, and this was our nrst brush with misfortune. "Each man took his blanket, and laid himself down silently ; for the worst part of these mishaps is, tliat they make people ill-humoured. To-day we had travelled about thir(y-six miles. Julu 6.— Finding that our present excursion would be attended with considerable hardship, and unwilling to expose more persons than neces- sary, I determined to send Mr. Preuss back to the party. His horse, too, appeared in no condition to support the journey, and accordingly, after breakfast, ho took (he road across the hills attended by one of my most trusty men, Bornier. The ridge between the river is here about fifteen miles broad, and I expected he would probably strike the fork near their evening ramp. At all events he would not fail to find their trail and re- join them the next day. We continued our journey, seven in number, including the three Chey- ennes. Our general course was southwest, up the valley of the river, which wns sandy, bordered on the northern side of the valley by a low ridge, and on the south, after seven or eight miles, the river hills became higher. Six miles from oiHr *'esting place we crossed the bed of a consider- able stream, now entirely dry, a bed of sand. In a grove of willows near the mouth were the remains of a considerable fort, constructed of trunks of large trees. It was apparently very old, and had probably been the scene of some hostile encounter among the roving tribes. Its solitude formed an impressive contrast to the picture which our imaginations involuntarily drew of the busy scene which had been enacted here. The timber ap- peared to have been much more extensive formerly than now. There were but a few trees, a kind of long-leaved willow, siunding; and numerous trunks of large trees were scattered about on the ground. In many similar places I had occasion to remark an apparent progressive decay in the tim- ber* Ten njiles further we reached the mouth of Lodge Pole creek, a clear and handsome stream, running through a broad valley. In its course through the bottom it has a uniform breiwth of twenty-two feet, and six inches in depth. A few willows on the banks strike pleasantly on the eye, by their greenness, in the midst of the hot and barren sands. The amorpha was frequent among the ravines ; but the sunflower {heli- anthus) was the characteristic ; and flowers of deep warm colors seem most to love the sandy soil. The impression of the country travelled over today, was one of dry and barren sands. We turned in towards the river at noon, and gave our horses two hours for food and rest. I had no other thermom- eter than the one attached to the barometer, which stood at 89°, the height of the colunm in the barometer being 26.235, at meridian. The sky was clear, with a high wind from the south. At 2, we continued our journey ; the wind had moderated, and it became almost unendurably hot, and our ani- mals suflfered severely. In the course of the afternoon, the wind rose sud- denly, and blew hard from the southwest, with thunder and lightning and squalls of rain ; these were blown against us with violence by the wind, and halting, we turned our backs to the storm until it blew over. Antelope gormg V .■t 23 [248] were tolerably frequent, with a Inr^^e gray hnre ; but the former were shy, and (he htiter hardly worth the delay of stopping to shoot tiiem ; so, as even- |ing drew near, we again had recourse to an old bull, and encamped at buq- sei on on island in the Platte. We ate our meat with good relish this evening, for we were all in fine I health, and had ridden nearly all of a long summer's day, with a burning sun reflected from the sands. My companions slept, rolled up in their blankets, and the Indians lay in the grass near the fire, hut my sleeping I place generally had an air of more pretension. Our rifles were tied to- gether near the muzzle, the butts resting on the ground, and a knife laid oa the rope to cut away in case of an alarm. Over this, which made a kind of frame, was thrown a large India-rubber cloth, which we used to cover [our packs. This made a tent sufficiently large to receive about half of my bed, and was a place of shelter for my instruments ; and as I was careful always to put this part against the wind, I could lie here with a sensation I of satisfied enjoyment, and hear the wind blow and the rain pauer close to my head, and know that I should he at least half dry. Certamly, I never I slept more soundly. The barometer at sunset was 26.010, thermometer [81°, and cloudy ; but a gale from the west sprang up with the setting sun, and in a few minutes swept away every cloud from the sky. The even- ing was very fine, and 1 remained up to take some astronomical observer tions, which made our position in latitude 40*^ 51' 17", and longitude 103° 35' 04". July 7. — At our camp this morning, at 6 o'clock, the barometer was at 1 26.183, thermopneter 69°, and clear, with a light wind from the southwest. The past night had been squally, with high winds, and occasionally a few I <]rops of rain. Our cooking did not occupy niu'ch time, and we leu camp |«arly. Nothing of interest occurred during the morning. The same dreary barrenness, except that a hard marly clay had replaced the sandy soil. Buffalo absolutely covered the plain on both sides the river, and whenever we ascended the hills, scattered herds gave life to the view iu every direction. A small drove of wild horses made their appearance on the low river bottoms, a mile or two to the left, and I sent off one of the Indians (who seemed very eager to catch one) on my led horse, a spirited and fleet animal. The savage manoeuvred a little to get the wind of the horses, in which he succeeded ; approaching within a hundred yards with- out being discovered. The chase for a few minutes was animated and interesting. My hunter easily overtook and passed the hindmost of the wild drove, which the Indian did not attempt to lasso ; all his efforts being J directed to the capture of the leader. But the strength of the horse, weak- |«ned by the insufficient nourishment of grasit, failed in a race, and all the drove escaped. We halted at noon on the bank of the river, the barometer |at that time being 26.192, and the thermometer 103°, with a light air from the south and clear weather. In the course of the afternoon, dust rising among the hills at a particular place attracted our attention, and riding up we found a band of eighteen or I twenty buffalo bulls engaged in a desperate fight. Though butting and goring were bestowed liberally and without distinction, yet their efforts were 4jvidently directed against one, a huge gaunt old bull, very lean, while his adversaries were all fat and in good order. He appeareil very weak, and had already received some wounds, and while we were looking on was sev- eral times knocked down and badly hurt, and a very few moments would I ;a i li 1 I [843] U hate ptit ftn end to hitn. Of coune we look the aide of the weaker paitjrv | and atiocked the herd, but they were ao blind with rage that ihey fought onr utterly rcgardleee of our pretence, although on foot and on honeback w» were firing in open view within twenty yards of tliem. But thia did not latt long. In a very few leconda we created a commotion annont ihem. One or two which were knocked over by the balls jumped up and ran oft \ into the hills, and they began to retreat slowly along a broad ravine to the river, fighting furiously as the^ went. By the time they hod reached the bottom we had pretty well dispersed them, and the old bull hobbled off to> lie down somewhere. One of his enemies remained on the groimd where we had first fired upon them, and we stopped there for a short time to cut from him some meat for our supper. We nad neglected to secure our horses^ thinking it nn unnecessary precaution in their fatigued condition ; but our mule took it into his head to start, and awnv he went, followed at full *pcMl by the pack-horse, with all the baggage and instruments on his back. They were recovered and brought back, after a chose of a mile. Fortunately dvery thing was well secured, so that nothing, not even the barometer, was in tha least injured. The sun was getting low, and some narrow lines of timber four or five miles distbni, promised us a pleasant camp, where, with plenty of wood for fire, and comfortable shelter, and rich grass for our animals, we should find clear cool springs, instead of the warm water of the Plotte. On our arrivat we found the bed of a stream fifty to one hundred feet wide, sunk soma thirty feet below tho level df the prairie, with perpendicular banks, borderisd by a fringe of green cottonwood, but not a drop of water. There weret several small forks to the stream all in the same condition. With the ex- ception of the Platte bottom, the country seemed to be of a clay formation, dry, and perfectly devoid of any moisture, and baked hard by the sun. Turning off towards the river, we reached the bank in about a mile, and were delighted to find an old tree with thick foliage and spreading branches^ where we encamped. At sunset the barometer wiis at 26,950, thermometer 81°, with a strong wind from S. 20° E., and the sky partially covered with heavy masses of cloud, which settled a little towards the horizon b^ 10 o'clock, leaving it sufficiently cleax for astronomical observations, which, placed us in latitude 40° 33' 26" and longitude 104° 02' 13". July 8. — The morning was very pleasant. The breeze was fresh fronii S. 60° E. with few clouds, the barometer at 6 o'clock standing at 25,970, and the thermometer at 70°-. Since leaving the forks our route had passed over a country alternately clay and sand, each presenting the same naked waste. On leaving camp this morning, we struck agam a sandy regiou,^ in which the vegetation appeared somewhat more vigorous than that which we had observed for the last f« w days, and on the opposite side of the river were some tolerably large groves of timber. Journeying along, we came suddenly upon a place where the ground was covered with horses tracks, which had been mad*^ sitio. the rain, ond indicated the immediate presence of Indians in our neighborhood. The buffalo, too, which the day before had been so numerous, were nowhere in sight, another sure indication that there were people near. Riding on, we discovered the carcass of a buffalo recently killed, perhaps the day before. We scanned the horizon carefully with the glass, but no living object was to be seen. For the next mile or two the ground wns dotted with buffalo carcasses, which showed that the Indians had made a surround here, and w t«4») rem in eontidferable feree. We wtot on qnickly and cautlontly, ke^plitif |he river bottom, and rareftilly avoiding the hilli: bnt we met with no iti* |erruption, and began to grow cartlesa again. We had already lotot one of >nr hortei, and hem BatiPii mule showed symntonn of giving dut, and Inaily rvfitsed to advance, being what the Cannaians call re$((. He there- lore cfismoimted, and drove her along before him, but thia was a very sIbiV Vay of travelling. We had inadvertently got about half a mile in advance, ^ut our Gheyennes, who were generally a mile or two in the rear, remained rith him. Inhere were pome dark looking objects among the hills, obuut ro miles to the left, here low and undulating, which we had seen (br a Ittle time, and supposed to be buflfalo^ coming In to water; bnthappeuinr p look behind, Maxwell saw the Gheyennes whipping up furiously, and [nother glance at the datk objects showed them ut once to be Iiidlnni pminff up at speed. * Had we been well mounted and disencumbered of instruments, we might ^ave set them at defiance, but as it was, wc were fairly ctusrht. It was too We to rejoin our friends, and we endeavored to gain a clump of timber^ [bout half a mile ahead, but the instruments and the tired slate of our [orses did not allow us to go faster than a steady cunter, and they were [aining on us fast. At first they did not appear to be more than fifteen or wenty in number, but group after group darted into view at the top of tho kills, until all the little eminences seemed in motion, and in a few minutes' fom the time they were first discovered, two or three hundred, naked to the freech cloth, were sweeping across the prairie. In a few hundred yaids |e discovered that the timber We were endeavoring to make, was on tho iposiie side of the river, and before we could reach the bank, down came lu Indians upon us. I am inclined to think that in a few seconds more the leadin? man, and, 3rhaps, some of his companions, would have rolled in the dust, for w« |ad jerked the covers from our guns, and our fingers were on the triggers ; [len in such cases generally act from instinct, and a charge from three [undred naked savages is a circunistance not well calculated to promote a )ol exercise of judgment. Just as he was about to fire, Maxwell recog- bsed the leadinsr Indian, and shouted (o him in the Indian language, [oft're a fool, God damn you, don't you know me ? The sound of his own pguage seemed to shock the savage, and swerving his horse a little, he asscd us like an arrow. He wheeled, as I rode out toward him, and gave |e his hand, strikine: his breast and exclaiming, Arapah6 ! They proved |je a village of that nation among whom Maxwell had resided as a »der a year or two previously, ana recognised him accordingly. We sre soon in the midst of the hand, aswering as well as we could a multi- ie of questions, of which the very first was, of what tribe were our In- m companions who were coming in the rear? They seemed disap- [inted to know that they were Gheyennes, for they had fully anticipated frand dance around a Pawnee scalp that night. [The chief showed us his village at a grove on the river six miles ahead, nd pointed out a band of Buffalo, on the other side of the Platte immedi- biy opposite us, which he said they were going to surround. They had jn the band early in the morning from their village, and had been making^ f large circuit to avoid giving them the wind, when they discovered us. a few minutes the women came galloping up, astride on their horses. n I if [ 248 ] 26 and naked from the kiiees down, and the hipi up. They followed the men to nfsist in cutting up nnd carrying off the meat. The wind was blowuig directly across the river, nnd the chief requested I IIS to halt where we were, for n while, in order to avoid raising the herd. We, therefore, unsaddled our horses, and sot down on the bank to view the scene, and our new acquaintances rode a few hundred ynrdt lower dowa and began crossing tho river. Scores of wild looking do|^ followed, look- ing like troops of wolves, and having, in fact, but very little of the dog in their composition. Some of them remained with us, and 1 checked one of the men, whom I found aiming at one, which he was about to kill for « wolf. The day had become very hot. The air was clear, with a very slight breeze, and now, at twelve o'clock, while the barometer stood at 26.920, the attached thermometer was at 108°. Our Cheyennes had| learned that with the Arapaho village, were about twenty lodges of their own, including their own families; they, therefore^ immediately commenced I making their toilette. After bathing in the river, they invested themselTes in some handsome calico shirts, which I afterward learned they had stolen | from my own men, and spent some time in arranging their hair and paint- ing themselves with some vermillion I had given them. While they were I ■engaged in this satisfactory manner, one of their half wild horses, to which [ the crowd of prancing animals which hud just passed had recalled the free- dom of her existence among the wild droves on the prairie, suddenly doshed I into the hills at the top of her speed. She was their pack horse, and had on her back all the worldly wealth of our poor Cheyennes, alt their occou- trements, and all the little articles which they had picked up among us, with some few presents I had given them. The loss which they seemed to regret most were their spears ond shields, and some tobacco which theyl had received from mo. However, they bore it all with the philosophy of| an Indian, and laughingly cuiitiniied their toilette. They appeared, how- ever, a little mortified at the thought of returning to the village in such al sorry plight. **Our people will laugh at us," said one of them, " returningl to the village on foot, instead of driving back a drove uf Pawnee horses."! He demanded to know if I loved my sorrel hunter very much, to which ll replied he wns the object of my most intense affection. Fur from beingi able to give, I was myself in want of horses, and any suggestion of part-i ing with the few I hud valuable, was met with n peremptory refusal. Inl the meantime the slaughter was about to commence on the other side. Sol soon as they reached it, the Indians separated into two bodies. One party! proceeded directly across the prairie toward the hills in an extended line,! while the other went up the river, and instantly as they had given the windl to tho herd, the chase commenced. The buflfulo started for the hills, buti were intercnpted and driven back toward the river, broken and running inl every direction. The clouds of dust soon covered the whole scene, preT venting us from having any but an occasional view. It had a very sin-l gular appearance to us at a distance, especially when looking with the! glass. We were too fur to hear the report of the guns, or any sound, and! at every instant, through the clouds of dust which the sun maile luminous! we could see for a moment two or three buffalo dashing along, and closfl behind them an Indian with his long spear, or other weapon, and instantlyj again they disappeared. The apparent silence, and the dimly seen figure :fluting by with such rapidity, gave it a kind of dreamy effect, and seeme more like a picture than a scene of real life. Il had been a large herd ST [84»] ley followed lb« rhon (he cerru commenced, probably, (liroe or four hundred in number ; It, Ihouffh 1 wotched them closely, I did not «eu one emerge from the ktal cloud where the work of destruction was going on. AAer remaining [ere about on hour, we resumed our journey in the direction of the village. Gradually as wo rode on, Indian after Indian came dropping along, |iden with meat ; and by the time we hud noared the lodges, tne backwanl )Ad WAS covered with the returning horsemen. It was a pleasant con- (ast with the desert road we hnd Men travelling. Several had joined )mpany with us, and one of the chiefs invitinl us to his lodge. The viN kge consisted of about one huudrod and twenty-five lodges, of which irenty were Cheyennes; the latter pitched a little apart fiom the Aropa- )es. They were disposed in a scattering manner on both sides of a broad [regular street, about one hundred and (ifty feet wide, and running along 16 river. As we rode along, 1 remarked near some of the lodges a kind tripod frame, formed of thrf^o slender poles of birch, scraped very clean, which were affixed the shield and spear, with some other wenpons of a lief. All were scrupulously clean, (he spear head was burnished bright, d the shield white and stainless. It reminded me of the days of feudal ivalry, and when as I rode by I yielded to the passing impulse, and uchea one of the spotless shields with the muzzle of my gun, I almotC pected a grim warrior to start from the lodge and resent my challenge. he master of the lodge spread out a robe for me (o sit upon, and tne unws set before us a large wooden dish of buffalo meat. He had lit his pe in the meanwhile, and when it had been passed around, we com- encedour dinner while he continued to smoke. Gradually five or six her chiefs came in and took their seats in silence. When we had finish- , our host asked a number of questions relative to the object of our jour- y, of which I made no concealment ; telling him simply that I had made visit to see the country, preparatory to the establishment of military posts i the way to the mountains. Although this was information of the high- t interest to them, and by no means calculated to please them, it excited expression of surprise, and in no way altered the grave courtesy of their meaner. The others listened and smoked. I remarked, that in taking e pipe for the first time, each had turned the stem upward, with a rapid ance, as in offering to the Great Spirit, before he put it in his mouth. A |orm had been slathering for the past hour, and some pattering drops on e lodge warned us that we had some miles to our camp. Some Indian id given Maxwell a bundle of dried meat, which was very acceptable, as e had nothing, and sprin«;in^ upon our horses, we rude on ai dusk in the ce of a cold shower ond driving wind. We found our companions under me densely foliaged old trees, about three miles up the river. Under one them lay the trunk of a largo cotionwood, to leeward of which the men d kindled a fire, and we sat here and roasted our meat in tolerable shel- r. Nearly opposite was the mouth of one of the most considerable afflu- is of the South fork, la Fourche aux Caatora (Beaver fork), heading off the ridge to the southeast. July 9. — This morning we caught the first faint glimpse of the Rocky ouniains, about sixty miles distant. Though a tolerably bright day, ere was a slight mist, and we were just able to discern the snowy summit "Long's peak," (" /c."» f/cMx or«»7/cs" of the Canadians,) showing like a all cloud near the horizon. I found it easily distinguishable, there being perceptible difiference in its appearance from the white clouds that were [■ [848] 88 iottfnf tboui th« tkf. 1 wai pl«ued to And that among the trachn ▼oyag«on the naine of'* lx>ng'i peak" had been adopted and become famij liar in the country. In the ravinea near thia placo, n light brown Mndttoe made its lint appeorancp. About R, we diacernod scvernl peraona on hora back a mile or two ahead on the ooposiie aide of the river. They turm in lowarda the river, and m'e rode (lown to moet them. We found theiu i^ be two white men, and a mnlotio named Jim Deckwith, who had left I^uia when a boy, and gone to life with 'he Crow Indiana. He had tingtiiihed himacif among them by aonM nets of daring bravery, and hi risen to the rank of a chief, but hud now, for lome yeari, left them. Thi were in search of a band of horses that had gonn off from a camp aoi miles above, in charge of Mr. I.'liahonard. Two of them continued dowij the river, in aearch of the horses, and the Americun turned back with iiij and we rode on towords the camp. About right miles from our sleepii place wo reached liijou's fork, an afllueni of the right bank. Where w] croflscd it, a short distance from the Platte, it hns a sandy bod about fot hundred yards brond, the water in various small streams, n few iiichc deep. Seven miles further brought us to a camp / son.e four or At whites, New Englandors, I believe, who had acconipMticd Cnpt. Wycth the Columbia river, and were independent trappers. All had their squot with them, and I was really surprised at the number of little fat buflulo-fei boys, that were tumbling about the camp, all apparently of the same about ihrco or four years old. They were encamped on a rich bottot covered with a profusion of Anc grass, and hnd a largo number of An looking hones and mules. We rested with them a few minutes, and ii about two miles arrived at Chabonard's camp, on an island in the Plauj On the heights above, we mot the Arst S!paiiiard I had seen in the countt Mr. Chobonard was in the service of bo;kit and St. Vrain's company, ani had left their fort some forty or flf\y miles above, in tho spring, with boaj laden with the furs of the last year's trade. He had met tho same fortur^ OS the voyogeurs on the Norih fork, ond Anding it impottsible to procec had taken up hid summei's residence on this island, which he had name St. Helena. The river hills appeared to bo com|)Oscd entirely of snnd, anf the Platte hnd lost the muddy character of its waters, iind here was tolei bly clear. From the mouth of the South fork, I had found it occnsionalij broken up by small islands, and at tho time of our journey, which was at[ season ot^ the year when the waters were at a favorable stage, it was n(| navigable fur anything drawing six inches water. The current was vef swift — the bed of the stream a coarse gravel. From the place nt which we had encountered the Arapahoes, the Platlj had been tolerably well fringed with limber, and tho island here had a Ar grove of vcrv large cottonwoods, under who!«e broad shade the tents weif pitched. There was n large drove of horses in the opposite prairie botton smoke was rising from ihe scattered Ares, and the encampment hnd quite patriarchal air. Mr. C. received us hospitably. One of the people was seij to gather mint, with the aid of which he concocted very good julep, and som boiled bufliilo tongue, and coATce with the luxury of sugar, were soon before us. The people in his employ were generally Spaniards, and amor them I saw a young Spanish woman from Tuos, whom I found to be Bcclj wiih's wife. Juh/ 10. — We parted with our hospitable host after breakfast the ne)j morning, and reached St. Train's fort, about forty-five miles from St. Heleiij 9t [248] ill) in the evening. Tliit poit( in litunted on ilie Somli fork of the Plaitt, Wnnliuiely under (he iiiuuulaini, (iIkxiI aeviMitoen ntiln* AAtt uf I Mtng'a peak. li on the right Iwnk, on the verge of (he upland nrairie, about f^rty fe#l K>ve the river, of which the iininedinia valley is about lix hundred yardt fide. The itream i« diviilnd into various brnnchee by ainnll iajandi, among ihich it rum with a swift current. The bed of the river is sand andgravtl, |e wa(or very clear, and hern may h« called a mouDiain itreain. Tliia r«> Ion appears to be eniiruly free from the limestones and marls whioh give to )e lower Platte iu yellow and dirty color. The Black hills lio between the roam and the mountains, whoso snowy peaks iilitter a few miles beyond. |l (he fort we found Mr. tit. Vrain, who received us with much kindness [id hosnitaliiy. Maxwell had spent the last two or three years between \h\* •t anu (he village of Taos, and here ho was r( home and among his friends. ^niards frequendy come over in search of employment, and several came shortly after our arrival. They usually obtain adou( six dollars a monthi bneraily paid to them in goods. They are very useful in a camp in taking jtre of horses and mulos, and I engaged one who proved to be an active, !•• irious man, and was of very considerable service to me. I'he elevation of le Platte here is 5,40<) feet ubovn ihe sea. Th^ neighboring mo(mtainsdid appear to enter fur (ho region of perpetual snow, which was generally ^nAned to the northern side of (he peaks. On the southern I remarked very Mie. Here it appeared, so far as I could judge in the distance, to descend jt a few hundred feet beluw (ho summits. I regretted that (ime did no( permit me to visit them ; but the proper ob* et of my survey lay among the mountains further north, and I looked for« ud to an exploration of their snowy recesses with great pleasure. The ine^ region of the mountains to the south was e|^veloped in smoke, and I I mformod had been on Are for several months. Pike's peak is said to ba tible from this place, about lOU miles to the southward, but the smoky lie of the atmosphere prevented my seeing it. The weather continued rercast during my stay hero, so that I failed \n determining the latitude, but plained good observations for time on (he mornin^^ of the 11 th and 12th. assumed latitude of 40° 22^ 30" from the evening position of the 12tb, kubled me to obtain for a tolerable correct longitude 10.5*^ 45' 13." \July 12. — The kindness of Mr. St. Vrain had enabled me to obtain a luplo of horses and three good mules, and with a further addition to our Irty of the Spaniard whom I hud hired, and two others, who were going to [tain service ut Laramie's fonk, we resumed our journey at 10 on the morn- uf the 12th. We hud been able to procure nothing at the post in the ly of provision. An expected supply from Taos had not yet arrived, and fevf pounds of coflfee wns all that could be spared to u-i. In addition lo I, we had dried meal enough for the first day ; on the next we expected Ifind buflfalo. From this post, according to the estimate of the country, fort at the mouth of Laramie's fork, whi<:h wns our next point of destiaa- [n, was nearly due north, distant about one hundred and twenty-five milee. 'For a short distance our road lay down the valley of the Platte ; whiek Bembled a 'garden in the splendor of fields of varied flowers, which filled air with fragrance. The only timber I noticed consisted of poplar, birch, [llonwood, and willow. In something leas than three miles, we crossed lompson's creek, one of the affluents to the left bank of the South fork, • te stream about sixty-five feet wide and three feet deep. Journeying oa, le low dark line of the Black hills lying betweeo ue and the mouataiai to * [«48] M iIm Itft, in abouc im milM tnm th« fort, w< ranched QteMt A l» Pout wlitra w« bolted lo nooo. Thia i« a verv beaulifUl iiiouoiain itrMfn, at on« buniirtd feet wide, flowing with a mil ewifl current over a rocky We balled under the eliade of lome cutlonwooda, willi which ihe elream wooded ecaiieriugiy. U the upMr part of ill courae, it runs amid (he wild eet mountain eceuery, and breoking (htough ilie Black llilie fall* into ll Plane about ten milee below this place. In (he coune of our late journey, I had managed (o become (he poeeeieor of a very unirociable mule, a perfe vixeu, and her I had (umed over (o my Spaniard. It occupied ue at half on hour (o-day (o get (he Middle upon her ; but, once on her bock, Jc eould not be di«moun(ed, realixinff (he accounie given of Mexican horeee ai konemanehip ; and we con(inue(rour route in (he aAernoon. At evening wa encnmned un Crow ( 7 ) creek, having (ravelled about iwei ty e nuietlv ffsding a little dislanca below. It was quite a lunler's pnrailiae ; ana whilasoma ran down toward tha band to kill one for [supper, oihen ct>llected boit dt micA«, for a Are, there being no wood ; and ]1 amused mysolf with hunting for plants among the grass. It will be seen, by oooasional remarks on the geological formation, that Ithe constituents of the soil in Iheao rvgions are jrood, nnd every day served Ito strengthen tho impression in my mind, confirmed by subsequent obser* Ivation, tnai tha borroii appearance of the country, is due almost entirely to Ithe extreme dryness of the climate. Along our miito the country nad Iseemed to increase constantly in elevation. According to the indication jof the barometer, wo were at our encampment, 5,440 feet above the sea. Tho evening was very clear, with a fresh breew from the south, 50^ east. [The barometer at sunset was 24.802, the ihcrinomeler ottached showing v. I supposed this to be a fork of liodgt Pole creek, so for aa I could deter- line from our uncertain means of information. Antrononiical obaervotions kvo for the camp a longitude of 105° 13' 38", nnd latitude 41° OH' 31". Jnhf 14/A. — The wind continued fresh from tho same quarter in ihe lorning, the day being clear with tho exception of a few clouds in the lorizon. At our camp at six o'clock, the height of the barometer wo* M.830, the ottoched thormomcicr 61°. Our course this morning wos di* vctly north, by compass, tho variation being 15° or 16° easterly. A ride- >r four miles brought us to Lodge Polo creek, which we had seen at its muth on tho JSouth fork ; crossing on the way two dry strosms, in eighteen iiles from our encampment of the past night we reached a high bleak ^idge, composed entirely of the name onrthylimosiono and mnri previously loscribed. 1 hod never seen anything which impressed so strongly on my lind n feeling of desolation. The valley through which ran tho waters >f Horso creek, lay in view to the north, but too ?ar to have any influence )Q the immediate view. On the peak of the ridge whero I was standing, >mo six or seven hundred feet above the river, the wind wom high andf >Iesk ; (be barren and arid country seemed as if it had been swept by fires, tnd in every direction the same dull ash-colorod hue, derived from tho >rmation, mot the eye. On the summits were some stunted pines, mnny ^f them dead, all wearing the same nnhen hue of desolation. We leA tho ^lace with pleasure ; and after we had descended several hundred feet, halted one of the ravines, which, at the distance of every mile or two, cut the lanks of the ridge with little rushing streams, wearing something of a nountain character. We had already begun to cxcliango the compara- pvely barren lands for those of a more fertile character. Though the sand- >ne formed the broken banks of the creek , yet they were covered with a thin I ; and the fifty or sixty feet which formed the bottom land of the little iream, was clothed with very luxuriont grass, amon^ which I remarked rillowand cherry, (cerasus virginiana ;) and a quantity of gooseberry and [urrant bushes occupied the greater part. The creek was three or four feet broad and about six inches deep, with a Mfl current of clear water, and tolerably cool. Wc Imd struck it too low lown to find the cold water, which we should have enjoyed nearer to its 1248] 32 I' ) cources. At 2, P. M., Ilie boronieter wns ut 26.050, ilie atlnched thermom*! cter 104°. A dtiy of hot simshinu, with clouds, and a moderate breeze frorol the south. Continuing down the stream, in ubout four miles we reached itil nioulh, at one of the main branches of Horse creek. Lnokintf back upon I the ridge whose direction oppeared to be a little to the north of enst, we sawl it seamed at frei|uent intervals with the dark lines of wooded streams, afflu>j ents of the river that flowed so far as we could see along its base. Wei crossed in the space of twelve miles from our noon halt three or four forks ofl Horse creek, and encamped at sunset on the most easterly. I The fork on which we encamped appeared to have followed an easterljl direction up to this place, but here it malces a very sudden bend to the north,! passing between two ranges of precipitous hills called, as I was infoimedJ Goshen's hole. There is somewhere in or near this locality a place so called,! j)ut I am not certain that it was the place of our encampment. Looking! back upon the spot at the distance of a few miles tu the northward, the billsl appear to shut in the prairie, through which runs the creek, with a semi*! circular sweep, which might very naturally be called a hole in the hills.! ^he geological composition of the ridge is (he same which constitutes th«l rock of the Oouri-house and Chimney on the North fork, which appeared to! fne a continuation of this ridge. The winds and rains work this formaiioal into a variety of singular forms. The pass into Goshen's hole is about two! {niles wide, and the hill on the western side imitates, in an extraordinary! manner, a massive fortified place, with a remaikable fulness of detail. The! rock is marl and earthy limestone, while, without the least appearance o([ vegetation, and much resembles masonry at a little distance*, and here it! «weeps around a level area two or three hundred yards in diameter, and in! 4he form of a half moon, terminating on either extremity in enormous bas-l tions. Along the whole line of the parapets appear domes and .slender min-' «irets, forty or fifty feet high, giving it every appearance of an old fortified town. On the waters of White river, where this formation exists in great extent, it presents appearances which excite the admiration of the 8oIitary| yoyageur, and form a frequent theme of their conversation when speakini^ of the wonders of the country. Sometimes it offers the perfectly illusivft appearance of a large city, with numerous streets and magnificent building*, among which the Canadians never fail to see their cabiiret ; and sometimo it takes the form of a solitary house, with many large chambers, into which they drive their horses at night, and sleep in these natural defences perfectly secure from any attack of prowling savages. Before reaching our camp ail Goshen's hole, in crossing the innmense detritus at the foot of the Castltf rock, we were involved amidst winding passages cut by the waters of th« hill ; and where, with a breadth scarcely large enough for the pas.rthward, the hills| eek, with a 8eini< hole in the hills.! ch constitutes the| K'hich appeared to ork this formaiioB| hole is about twc I an extraordinary! ss of detail. The! ;ast appearance o( nee; and here i(| k diameter, and i( I ia enormous I and slender min- f an old fortified! )n exists in grei on of tlie soliiaryl n when speakii perfectly illusive nificent buildioga and sometimt nbers, into whici defences perfectl] hing our camp ai| bot of the Castit the waters of tht the passage of This format ionl ght of the mercuj id wind moderate the moon, but which placed 16, the thermomj m the south, witif >ur journey acr morning accordj est of north, struck the Platte some thirteen mitea below Fort Laramie. The day was Extremely hot, and among the hills the wind seemed to have just iaaued froui 4UI oven. Our horses were much distressed, as we had travelled hi^rd, and lit was with some difficulty that they were all brought to the Flatte ; which |we reached at 1 o'clock. In riding in towards the river, we found the trail )f our carls, which appeared to have passed a day or two since. After having allowed our animals two hours for food and repose, we re* nimed our journey, and towards the close of the day came in sight of Lara* Iniie's fork. Issuing from the river hills, we came first in view of Fort Pluile, la post belonging to Messrs. Sybiile, Adams &> Co., situated immediately in ■he point of land at the junction of Laramie with the Platte. Like the post |we nad visited on the South fork, it was built of earth, and still unfinished, )uing enclosed with walls, or rather houses, on three of the sides, and open )u the fourth to the river. A few hundred yards brought us in view of the }8t of the American Fur Company, called Fort John or Laramie. TDis iras a large post, having more the air of military construction than the furl U the mouth of the river. It is on the left bank, on a rising ground some |twenty-five feet above the water *, and its lofty walls, whitewashed and pick- eted, with the large bastions at the angles, gave it quite an imposing appear- |imce in the uncertain light of evening. A cluster of lodges, which the lan- guage told us belonged to Sioux Indians, was pitched Jnder the walls, and, [with the fine background of the Black Hills and the prominent peak of Lara- mie mountain, strongly drawn in the clear light of the western sky, where (he sun had already set, the whole formed at the moment a strikingly beau- tiful picture. From the company at St. Louis I had letters for Mr. Boudenu, the gentleman in charge of the post, by whom I was received with great hos- )itality and an efficient kindness, wliich was invaluable to me during my stay in the country. I found our people encamped on the bank a short distance ibove the fort. All were well, and in the enjoyment of a bountiful supper, rhich coffee and bread made luxurious to us, we soon forgot the fatigues of the lost ten days. July 16. — I found that, during my absence, the situation of affairs had undergone some change ; and the usual quiet and somewhat monotonous regularity of the camp had given place to excitement and alarm. The cir- cumstances which occasioned this change will, be found narrated in the fol- lowing extract from the journal of Mr. Preuss, which commences with the lay of our separation on the South fork of the Platte. Extract from the Journal of Mr. Preuss. ^^July 6. — We crossed the plateau or highland between the two forks in sibout six hours. I let my horse go as slow as he liked, to indemnify us both iTor the previous hardship*, and about noon we reached the North fork, rrhere was no sign that our party had passed ; we rode, therefore, to some line trees, unsaddled the horses, and stretched our limbs on the grass, await- ing the arrival of our sompany. After remaining here two hours, my com- panion became impatient, mounted his horse again, and rode off down the river to see if he could discover our people. I felt so marode yet, that it was horrible idea to me to bestride that saddle again, sol lay still. I knew they :ould not come any other way, and then my companion, one of the best men A ihe company, would uoi uljandoa me. The sua went down j he didooi 3 ^i ' [248] 34 come i unea»y I did not feel, but very hungry ; I had no proviaionv, but I coutd make a fire ; and, as 1 espied two doves in a tree, I tried (o kiil one ', but it needs n better marksman tnan myself to kill a little bird with a rifle. I made a large fire, however, lighted my pipe-^this true fHend of mine in every emergency — laid down, and let my thoughts wander to the far East. It Was not many minutes aAer when I heard the tramp of a horse, and my faiihAil compai^ion was by my side. He had found the party, who had been delayed by making their caefu^ about seven miles below. To the good sup- per which he brought with him I did amfde justice. He had foi]goiten salt; and 1 tried (he soldier's ifeubstitute in time of war, and used gunpowder ; but it answered badly — bitter enough, but no flavor of kitchen salt. I slept well ; and wns only disturbed by two owls, which were attracted by the fire, and took their place in the tree under which we sleot. Their music seemed a» disagreeable to my companion as to myself ; he fired his rifle twice, and then I hey let us alone. July 7. — At about 10 o'clock, the party arrived ; and we continued our journey through a country which offered but little to interest the traveller. The soil wns much more sandy than in the valley below the confluence of the forks, and the face of the country no longer presented the refreshing green which had hitherto characterized it. The ricn grass was now found only in dispersed spots, on low grounds, and on the bottom land of the streams. Along drought, joined to exireme heat, had so parched up the upper prairies, that they were in many places bold, or covered only with a thin growth of yellow and' poor grass. The nature of the soil renders it ex- tremely susceptible to the vicissitudes of the climate. Between the forks, 6nd from their junction to the Black Hills, the formation consists of marl and a soft earthy limestone, with granitic sandstone. Such a formation can not Elve rise to a sterile soil ; and on our return in September, when the country ad been watered by frequent rains, the valley of the Platte looked like a garden ; so rich was the verdur'^ of the grasses, and so luxuriant the bloom Of abundant flowers. The wild sage begins to make its appearance, and timber is so scarce that we generally made our fires of the bois de vache. With the exception of now and then an isolated tree or two, standing like a lighthouse on the river bank, there is none whatever to be seen. July 8. — Our road to-day was a solitary one. No game made its appearance, not even a buffalo or a stray antelope ; and nothing occurred to break the monotony until about 5 o'clock, when the caravan made a sudden halt. There was a galloping in of scouts and horsemen from every side — a hur- rying to and fro in noisy confusion ; rifles were taken from their cover ; bul- let pouches examined : in short, there was the cry of " Indians" heard again. I had become so much accustomed to these alarms, that now they made but little impression on me ; and, before I had time to become excited, the new comers were ascertained to be whites. It was a large party of traders and trappers, conducted by Mr. Bridger, a man well known in the history of the country. As the sun was low, and there was a fine gross patch not far ahead, they turned back and encamped for the night with us. Mr. Bridger was in vited to supper ; and, after the tabh-doth was removed, we listened with eager interest to an account of their adventures. What they had met, we would be likely to encounter ; the chances whieh had befallen them would probably ^lappen to us ; and weiooked upon their life as a picture of our own. He informed us that the condition of the country had become exceedingly dan- gerous. The Sioux, Nvho bad been badly disposed, had broken out intol provisioni, but I tried 10 kHl one ; | bird wiih a rifle. I of mine in every I the far East. It| I horae, and my ty, who had been To the good 8up- ad forgotten salt; gunpowder; but lit. I depl well i by the Ore, and i mudic seemed aal I rifle twice, and re continued our rest the traveller.! he confluence of sd the refreshing I was now found torn land of the ) parched up the ered only wilh a | soil renders it ex- stween the forks,! msisis of marl and I formation can not! ^hen the country! tte looked like a I uriant the bloom f appearance, and le bois de vacheA >, standing like a| seen. de its appearance, red to break the I a sudden halt.! r&ey side — a hur-j their cover; bul-l Eins" heard again.! w they made but! excited, the new! K"^ of traders and I e history of the! ch not far ahead,! Bridger wasin-l lened with eager met, we would! would probablyj our own. He| xceedingly dan- broken out into! — =11= ■ J^4 W-< • ^^^^^^^^Hk^-^-, '^HHH^^aM'MKl "'''^HHKJ^^ Sk ^^^m ^ j^liJ*-^5^- % ■ ;i y^ '^^B ^nl^^Bhf iL- ^JiBHb^^^^ iMppT^^^p • I^Paw « .^^P ^^v ^1^ ^^ .Mim^^ ^^^^^^^B^ ^ ^^^HP^-v '' .v^ ' ^^^H^ ~ , ^/ ' I'ti.^'^ ^^ ^^^E%:^wSii^^jLi«A?ArV * ■ ^^SL^ ^^Bs^r''" ^^^^1^1/^^, ^^^^^^%^ ''' wipC : t^.;-:'* . 8« [248] open hostility, and in the preceding autumn, his party had encountered them in a severe enffugemenl, in which n number of hvea had been lost on both •ides. United with the Cheyenne and Gros Ventre Indians, they were •couring the upper country in war parties of great force, and were at this lime in the neighborhood of the Red Buttcs, a famous landmark, which was directly on our path. They had declared war upon every living tiling which aliouldbe found westward of that point ; though their main object was to at- tack a large camp of whites ond Snake Indians, who had a rendezvous in Che Sweet Water valley. Availing himself of his intimate knowledge of the country, he had reached Laramie by an unusual route through the Black Hills, and avoided coming into contact with any of the scattered parties. This gentleman oflfered his services to accompany us so far as the head of the Sweet Water i but the absence of our leader, which was deeply regret- ted by us all, rendered it impossible for us to enter upon such arrangement. In a camp consisting of men whose lives had been spent in this country, I expected to find every one prepared for occurrences of this nature; but, to my great surprise, 1 found, on the contrary, that this news had thrown them all into the greatest consternation, and on every side I heard only one excla- mation, *' // n'y aura pas de vie pour nous" All the night scattered groups were assembled oround the fires, smoking their pipes, and listening with the greatest eagerness to exaggerated details of Indian hostilities ; an 1 in the morning I found the camp dispirited, and agitated by a variety of confiicting opinions. A majority of the oeople were strongly disposed to return *, but Clement Lambert, with some five or six others, professed their determination to follow Mr. Fremont to the uttermost limit of his journey. The others yielded to their remonstrances ; and, somewhat ashamed of their cowardice, concluded to advance ut least so far as Laramie fork, eastward of which they were aware no danger was to be apprehended. Notwithstanding the confu- sion and excitement, we were very early on the road, as the days were ex- tremely hot, and we were anxious to profit by the freshness of the morning. The soft marly formation, over which we were now journeying frecuienily ofiers to the traveller views of remarkable and picturesque beauty. To sev- eral of these localities where the winds and the rain have worked the bluffs into curious shapes, the voyageurs have given names according to some fancied resemblance. One of these, called the Courthouse, vfe passed about six miles from our encampmeni of last night, and toward noon came in sight of the celebrated Chimney Rock. It looks, at this distance of about thirty miles, like what it is called, the long chimney of a steam-factory establish- ment, or a shot-tower in Baltimore. Nothing occurred to interrupt the quiet of the day ; and we encamped on the river, after a march of twenty-four miles. Buflalo had become very scarce, and but one cow had been killed, of which the meat had been cut into thin slices, and hutig around the carts to dry. July 10. — We continued along the same fine, plainly beaten road, which the amooth surface of the country afibrded us for a distance of six hundred and thirty miles, from the frontiers of Missouri to the Laramie fork. In the •ourse of the day we met some whites, who were following along in the train of Mr. Bridger ; and, after a day's journey of twenty-four miles, encamped about sunset at the Chimney Rock, of which the annexed drawing will render any discription unnecessary. It consists of marl and earthy limestone, and the weather is rapidly diminishing its height; which is now not more 11 [243] 36 than two hundnd feet above »hc river. Trnvellcrs who vUiicd iHome yean since placed in licighi nl upwards of five hundred feet. J\u\f 1 1. — The valley of the Nor(h fork is of n variable brendih, from one to four and aometlniea six miles. Fifteen miles from (he (vbiinney Rqck we reached one of (huso places where (ho river strikes (he biufTs and forces (he rood (o make a considerable circuit over (he uplands. This presen(ed an cscarmnen( nn (he river of abou( nine hundred yards in length, and ii fomili- uriv Known as Sco(('s blufTs. We had macle a journey of (hir(y mile* before we again siruck ihe river, a( a place where some scanty griisB aflbrded nn insufficient pasturage (o our animals. About twenty miles from the Chimney Rock, we had found a very beautiful spring of excellent and cold water, but it was in such a deep ravine, and so small, that (he animals could not profl( by i(, and we, (hcrciore, halted only a few minutes, and found i resting place len miles further on. The plain between Scott's bluffs and Chimney Rock was almost entirely covered with drift wood, consisting prin- ciiNilly of cedar, which, we were informed, had been supplied from the i'lnck Hills, in a flood five or six years since. Jxdy 12. — Nine njiies from our encampment of yesterday we crossed Horse creek, a shallow streani of clear water about seventy vards wide, fall- ing into the Platte on the right bunk. It Was lightly timnercd, and great quontities c " driA wood were piled up on the banks, appearing to be sup- plied by (he creek from above. After n journey of twenty-six miles, we encamp- cd on a rich bottom, which aflbrded fine gross to our animals. Buffalo hove entirely disappeared, and we live now upon the dried meat, which . exceed- ingly poor food. The mnrl and ear(hy limestone which constituted the formation for several days post, had changed during the day into a compact white, or groyish white limestone, sometimes containing hornstone ; and at the place of our encamumen( (his evening some B(rata in the river hills cropped out to the height of thirty or fortv feet, consisting 6f a fine-grained granitic sandstone *, one of the strata closely resembling gneiss. July 13. — To-day about four o'clock we reached Port Laramie, where we were cordially received ; we pitched our camp a little above the fort, on the bunk of Laramie rivei, in wnich the pure and clear water of the mountaim stream looked refreshingly cool, and made a pleasant contrast to the muddy, yiillow waters of the Plutte." I walked up to visi( our friends at (he fort, which is a quadrangular struc- ture, built of clay, after (he fashion of the Mexicans, who ore generally em- ployed in building (hem. The walls are abou( fifteen fee( high, surmounted with a wooden palisade, and form a portion of ranges of houses, which em- tircly surround a yard of about one hundred and thirty feet square. Every apartment has its door and window, all, of course, opening on the inside. 'I'here are two entrances opposite each o(her and midway (he wall, one of which is a large and public en(rnnce, the other smaller and more private : a sort of postern gate. Over the great entrance is a square tower, with loop- holes ; and, like the rest of the work, built of earth. At (wo of (he angles, and diogonaliy opposite each other, ore large square bastions, so arranged aa to sweep the four faces of the walls. This post belongs to the American Fur Company, and, at (he time of oor visit, was in charge of Mr. Boudeau. Two of (he company's clerks, Messrs. Gaipin and Kellogg, were with him, and he had in the fort about sixteen men. As usual, these had found wives amoag the Indian squaws \ and, witk :d il •ome yean ndih, from one mney Rpck we and forcef the s presented an ),and iifamili- of thirty tnilec y amen afforded nites from the client and cold ; animals could 8, and found t ott'e blufls and consisting prin- plied frum the Iny wo crossed ards wide, falt- ered, and great ring to be aup- lo9, we encamp- Buffalo have rhich . cxteed- constitnted the into a compact isiono ; and at the river hille a finegrained mie, where we |the fort, on the f the mountais to the mtiddy, I! Irangular struc- gencrally em- bh, surmounted iises, which ea- pquiire. Every on the inside. the wall, one more private : ^vcr, with loop- of the angles, so arranged at [he time of cor I clerks, Meesis. about sixteen \ws ; and, witl^ iii ( t 1 '! 1 «7 [243] ,V \r the uiual accompaniment of children, the place hud quite a populous np* pearance. It ia hardly nece«ary to soy, that the object of the eatablishmffiit le trade with ihe nei(fhborin2 tribee, who, in the cuiirte of the year, generallv moke two or throe vmita to the fort. In addition to this, traders with asmntl outdt are cnnMtnntly kept among theni. The ariicica of trade consist on the one side ulmoHt oiiiircly uf buffulo robtts, and on the other, of blankets, cali* eoes, guns, powder, and lead, with such cheap ornumenis as glass bendi«, looking glasses, riri^s, vcrniillion for |)ainting, tobacco, and principally, and in snite of the prohibition, uf spirits, brought into the country in the form of alconol, and diluted with water before sold. While mentioning this fact, it ia but justice to the American Fur Company to Htute, that throughout iho ooimiry, 1 have always found them strenuously opposed (o the introduction of spirituous liquors. But in the present slate of things, when iho country is supplied wiih ulcohul, when a Ice^ of it will purchase from an Indian every thing he possesses — his furs, his lodge, his horses, and even his wifo and children — and when any vasabond who has money enough to purclmsn a mule can go into a village and tmde ogainst them siiccesAfully — without withdrawing ei tirely from the trade, it is iinpossiltle for them to disconlinuo its use. In their opposition to this practice, the company is sustained, not only by their obligation to the laws of the country and the welfare of ihn Indians, but clearly, also, on grounds of policy ; for, with heavy and expen- sive outfits, they contend at manifestly great disadvantage against the nume- rous independent and unlicensed traders, who enter the country from various avenues, from the United States and from Mexico, having no other slock in trade than some kegs of liquor, which they sell at the modest price of thirty- air dollars per gallon. The diflference between the regular trader and the ooureurs dea boiSy as the French call the itinerant or peddling traders, with respect to the sale of spirits, is here as it always has been, fixed and perma- nent, and growing out of the nature of their trade. The regular trader look^ ahead, and has an interest in the preservation of the Indians, and in the reg- ular pursuit of their business, and their preservation of their arms, horses, and everything necessary to their future and permanent success in hunting: the coureur dea boia has no permanent interest, and gels what he can, and for what ho can, from every Indian he meet.s, even at the risk of disabling him from doing anything more at hunting. The fort had a very cool and clean appearance. The greot entrance, in which I found the gentlemen assembled, nnd which was floored, and obout fiAcen feet long, made a pleasant, shaded seal, through which ihe brcezo swept constantly ; for this country is famous for high winds. In the course of conversation, I learned the following particulars, which will explain tho condition of the country. For several years the Cheycnnes and Sioux had gradually become more and more hostile to the whites, and in the latter part of August, IS41, had had n rather severe engagement with a party of sixty men under the command of Mr. Frapp, of St. Louis. The Indians lost eight or ten warriors, and the whites had their leader and four men killed. This fight took place on the waters of Snake river ; and it was this party, on their return under Mr. Bridger, which had spread so much alarm among my peo- ple. In the course of the spring, two other small parlies had been cut ofl' by the Sioux; one on their return from the Crow nation, and the other among the Black Hills. The emigrants to Oregon and Mr. Bridger's party met here, a few days before our arrival. Division and misunderstandings had grown up among them ; they were already somewluU disliearleiied by the fatigue of their long and wearisome journey, and the feet of their callle < \ \'i [ 243 ] » hnci brronx! ro nitirli worn t\n In bn fcnrrely Mo lo Iravnl. In ilii't •iiUA- lidii, tliity wrro not likrly to (hid <>n(-oiiriu(riiii*nt in lU« \uM\\n altiiiHin of tho Iiidiaim, »nd the new nnd unexpected (ritncultic. Thcac lind been gone but n few days previous lo our arrival. The effect of the engngrment with Mr. Frapp hod been greatly lo irrilnle the hostile spirit of iho puvnges; nnd immediately subsequent lo that event, the GroH Ventre Indians hud united with the Oglallahs nnd Chcyennes, and taken the field in great force, so far as I could oaccriain, (o the amount of eight hundred lodgeu. Their object was to make an attack on n camp of Siiako and Crow Indians, nnd n body of about ono hundred whites, who had mado n rcndezvcua vomewhero in the Green River valley, or on the Sweet Woter. After spending eomctimo in bi ffalo hunting in tho neigh- borhood of the Medicine Bow mounlnin, ihey weio to cross over to the Green River waters, nnd return to Larnmio by way of tho South Pneis nnd the Sweet Water valley. According lo tho cnlculnlion of the Indians, Mr. Bou- denii informed mc, they were somewhere near the head of the Sweet Water. I subsequently learned thai tho party led by Mr. Filzpntrick were overtaken by their pursuers, near Rork Independence, in the valley of the Sweet Wa- ter; but his skill nnd resolution saved them from surprise, and small as his force wns, they did not venture lo attack him openly. Here they lost one of their party by nn accident, nnd continuing up the valley, they came sud- denly upon the Inrge villngc. From these they met with a doubtful recep- tion. Long residence and familiar acquaintance had given to Mr. Fitz- patrick great pergonal influence among them, and n portion of them were disposed to let him pass quietly -, but by far the greater number were in- clined to hostile measures, and the chiefs spent the whole of one night, during which ihcy kept the little parly in the midst of them, in council, debating the question of aUncking them the next day ; but the infiuencc of ihe '• Broken Hand," as they called Mr. F'ilzpittrick (one of his hands having been shattered by the bursting of a gun), at length prevailed, nnd obtained for them an unmolesled passage ; but they sternly assured him thut this 30 [843 1 III ihU liiua- liln iillihiiln of mm np Ix'torn t uf i^itiMit nnd nnil with ihfir K)rt llirir hrnvf ify (liKUOKfcl of iricra llicy had (It unn dollar a Ify renchpil lh« irrd iliiriy, nnd Ddilinni brred. ilinr (o nil wl>o led Lnrnniia In iftie riiuiifih (o L of Fori II oil, the niouninina. imedinlely nfler ea >nt out upon rclniiona in ihe nih, it was lup- favorable onpor- )y iho vigilance and cuUuitf oflT ) onr arrivol. [really lo irrilnle it (o that event, id Cheycnncs, lo I he amount ; on tt romp of ed whites, who illey, or on the ill iho ncigh- er to the Green PnBS and the liana, Mr. Bou- Sweel Water, were overtaken ihe Sweet Wa- I small as his they lost one hey cnine sud- lonblfiil recep- to Mr. Pitz- of ihcin were mber were in- |e night, during noil, debating tluencc of the hands having and obtained him that this pnih WAS no longtt open, and that anv party of whites which slinuld hereafter \m found upon it, would meet with otriaiM dn«iruction. Prnm nil thnt I have hern nble lu laorn, I huve no doubt that the emigrants owe their livM to Mr. Kiiipntiick. Thus it would appear thai the eountry was NWarmin||; with leatterod wnr parties; and when I heard duiiiig iho day, the various contradictory nnd exii(p;ernted rumors which were incossantly repeated to them, I was not surprised that so much alarm p'evoiled nmouK my men. Carson, one of the be»t and most ekporiumod mouiiinineurs, fully supported the opinion f^iven by Bridfl;er of the dangerous stnto of the country, and openly ex* proved his conviction that wo could not escnpo without some sharp en* counters with the Indians. In addition to this, ho mmlu his will, nnd among the circumstances which wore constantly occurring to incrensn their alarm, this was the most iiiirorlurnito; nnd I found that a numbei f nif party had Iwcome so much intimidated, that they had rcnucsted lo be dis* chnrjfud at this place. 1 dined to-dny at Fort PIntte, which hns been men* tinned ns situntod nt the junction of Laramie river, with the Nebrai«kn. Hero I heard a confirmaliou of the statumonta given above. The party of warriors which had started n few days since on the trail of the omii^ruiits, was ex|Nictod back in fourteen days, to inin the village with which their families and the old men had romainod. The arrival of Iho latter was hourly expected, and some Indians have just come in who had left them on the Lnramit fork, anout twenty miles above. Mr. BiNtw>nette, one 6f Ihe traders belonging to Fort Plaito, urged the propriety of taking with me an interpreter and two or throe old ir.enof the village, in which case he thought there would be little or no ha ..ird in encountering any of the war parties. The principal danger was in being attacked before they should know who wo wero. They had a confused idea of the numbers and power of our people, and dreaded to bring upon thcmtielves the military force of the United States. This gentleman, who spoke the language fluently, offered his services to accompany me so far as the Red Buttes. He was desirous to join the large party on its return, for purposes of trade, and it would suit his views as well as my own, to go with us to the Buttos ; beyond wiiich point it would ho impossible to prevail on a Sioux to venture, on account of their feur of the Crows. From Fort Laramio to the Red Buttes, by the ordinary road, is one hundred and thirty five miles ; nnd, though only on the threshold of »h np. prnrra very pliiiinnia, with unmriliinir of th« flitTor and npnmtHrire nil tiiiiMon. I'Viiliiig Honirlhinif rDovn txhiiul nir, 1 lioki'd round tind Imindl thRl 1 hnd inkcn my M*ni nnionir a lllier n( Int yniuifr piippi''*. Hi d I («en mm in Miirh innlitTK, ihc prrjiidim ol* civilixnljoii riiiKht hf«\e inirifi>rrd| with my trnn<|iiiliiy ; txii fortuiiaiffly, I nm iiul ol delicate n«'rv«i» and cuii- tinned quietly to mnpty mv pintler. The W(!nlher wna cloudy nt evonlnir, u-iih a nxHlerafa ntuwh «ihd, andj Oi« th«>rtnonM*tpr nl A o'clock 85*^. I won dionpiMiinird m my hope nt ob- taihinff nn olMorvation of an orcullnlion, which took plare about iiiidhight. The moon bronchi with her heovy tuutkii of cloud*, through whi^h >he| ■carcely made hrr aptM>arauce duriui; the ntffht. The morning of the 18th was cloudy nud calm, the thermometer nt 61 o'clock at tW. About 9, with a nindernie wind from the wcit, n .Morm of I rain came on, accompanied by nharn thunder and lightuinfr, which laftidl •bout an hour. During the day tne rxprctod village arrived, conHiNtingj principally of old men, women, and children. They had a eonnidernble number of homes, and large iruo^Mi of dogH. Their lodges were pitched near the fort, and our ramp was conNiantly crowded with Indians of all sixes, from morning until night; nt which tirno some of the soldiers gen- erally came to drive them all ofT to the village. My tent wns tho only place which they resf)ected. Hero only rnnio the rbiefs and men of dis* tinciion, and generally one of them remained to drive away the women and children. Tho numerous strange in.<*trumont8 applied to still stran- ger uses excited awe and adrnirntion among ihem, and those which 1 used in talking with tho sun and stars they looked upon with especial reverenee, ns mysterious things of "jrrent nieilirine." Of the three bnrome- tors which 1 hnd brought with me tmi.H fur siicrerNfully, I found that two we:» Jut of order, and spent tho greater part of the 19ih in repairing them, an operation of no small difticulty in tho midst of the incessant interrup- tions to which I was subjected. Wo had the niisfortnno to bi-nk here] o large thermometer, graduated to show fifths of a degree, which I used to ascertain the temperature of boiling water, and with which I hnd prom- ised myself some interesting experiments in the mountainf. We hnd but one remaining on which the graduniion extended sufficiently hi^h, and this was too small for exact observations. During our stay here the men had been engaged in making numerous repnirs.nrrnnginc pack-snddler, and otherwise preparing for the chances of a rough rond and mountain travel. All things of this nature being reudy, I gathered them around mo in thn evening, an*' told them that " I hnd determined to proceed the next day. They were all well armed. I had engnged the services of Mr. nissoncitc as interpreter, and taken, in the circums'tances, every possible means to en- sure our safety. In the rumors we hnd heard I believed there wns much exaggeration, nnd then they were men accustomed to this kind of life and to the country; and that these were the dnngers of every day occurrence, and to be expected in the ordinory course of their service. They had heard of the imsctlled condition of tho country before leaving St. Louis, and therefore could not make it a reason for breaking their erigngemcnts. Still I was unwilling to take with me on a service of some certain dnnger men on whom I could not rely; nnd as I litid iitidersiood that there were amonff them some who were dit-posod to cownrdieo. nnd anxiotis to return, they hnd but to come forward at once and stole their desire, and tlioy would 41 [243T . Th« flwh i»p.| d npncRriinre nil routiu Mttd Inundl ifi, Hid I \'ftn\ hu>e ininliprrd nerves, and cuii- ncwh uind, nndl my hopr ol' ob<| nltoiil iiiiditidht. sugh whi'^h »h«| hcrrromftrr nt 6 wt3t, n storm of infTi which Inrtrd rrivcd, coi)»i»ting id a convidrrnble, ^CB were pitched h Indinns cf nlt| the Roldirra gen cni yuM tho otilyl nnd men of dis* nwny the womon[ ied to still strnn- d those which II )on with e^pccittl |ho thieo hnrnme'l found thnt two II repairing thrm, ccssont inierrup- le to M»nk herel ee, which I used! ich I hnd prom- lifi. We hnd buti iently hi^h, nnd ny hero the nieni [mck-siidillep, nnd] ountnin trnvel Iroiind me in thfl| d the next dny If Mr, Hissoneitel e nienns to en- there wiis much Ikind of life and dny occurrence, ce. They hnd vina: St. Louis, ir engngemcnts.! rertnin danger thnt there were xions to retnrn, and tlioy would tM dischnri^l with the Amount tU\9 to them for the time they hnd serrrd." To their honor hi) it iMitd, ihrru wns hut one nmonf^ them who hnd tho fme to roriiu fnrMnrd nnd nvnil huuMrif of the iwrnuMinn. I mtkrd him soiiin few <|u«miioM« in order to rxprxia him to ihn ridit tile of the men, nnd let hull p>. The liny nUer our depnriun^ he eni;n);e(i himself lo one of tho forin, nnd let oil with a pnrty for the I'pprr MiNiiouri. I did not think ihnt the Mitiiiition of till) country Jiistitled itie in iiikint; our youn^ compnntoiH. Me<«i«r<. Hrnnt nnd Itenton, alont; wiih int. In < nsn of miiiforlune, it woiiUl have b«>rn thought, nt the lenM, nn net of {^reut imprudence: nnd therefore, thoiiirli reliictiintly, I determined to lenve ihirn. Knndolpli hnd heen tho lifo of the cnuip, and the **iirlU ffarron" wi<« niui h ri'yretled by the men, u> whom his houynni spirits find nlFonled great ninunement. I'hey nil, how* fTor, n:,'rce. Onr olwervaiions showed thni the rhrom, meter which I retnined for tho con. tintiniion of our voynge hnd preserved its rme in n most mti^ifnctory mnnner. As deduced from it, the lon^jritiido of !\»rl Larnniie is 7A. 01' 21", and (rotn lunar tlistanec 7/i. (IT 29", giving for tli'i adopted longitude 105° 21' 10". I Comparing tho hnromeiricnl ohsoivaiions mnd'" iluring our »tny hero with thosn of Dr. (t. Kngelmnn at Si. Loiiii*, wo tind lor the elevation of the fort obove the Gulf of Mexico 4,47t) feel. Tho winier climnte hero is remnrk- lably mild for the Intitude; but rniny wenlher is frequent, and tho place is Icoltihrntcd for winds, of which tho prevailing one is west. An euni wind in sumtnor and n south wind in winter is snid to be always accompanied Iwith rain. Wo were ready to dcpnil ; the tents were struck, the mules geared up, nnd lour horses saddled, and we walked up to the fort to lake tho stirrup cup jwiih our friends in nn excnllonl homchrewed nrepnrniion. While thus Iplens.intly en^roged, nented in one of tho little cool cli i l)ors, at tho door of Iwhich a man had heen stationed to prevent all intrusion from the Indians. la niiuiher of chiefs, several of thorn powerful fine-looking men, forced lihcir way into tho room in spite of all opfmsition. Handing me the follow- |ing letter, they took their scats in silence : "FoiiT Platte, /u/y 1, 1842. "Mr. Frhmont : Lcs chefs s'etnnt nssembles prescntemcnt me discnt de rows avcrtir do ne point vous moitre en route, avant que le parti do jeunos ^ensqiii est en dehors, soicnt dc rotonr. Dcpltis its mo dii^ent qu'ils sont ires coriain qu'ils feront feu, i la premiere rcnconlro. lis doivont eiro do fetoiir dans sept i hiiit jours ; excusez si je vous fuia ces observations, inais II mo seinble qu'il est mou devoir do vous avcrtir du danger. Mcme do plus, lcs chefs Rotit les portcurs do ce billet, qui vous dcfendent de pnrtir »vaut Ic rctour (lei»puorriers. Je suis votre ob'tservl'r, » JOSEPH mSSONKTTE, " Par L. B. CHARTRAIN." t [243] 42 Lea noms <]« quelques chefs : Le Chnpoau de Loutre, le Casseur do Filches, la Nuit Notr, La Queue| do Bocuf. [Tmulation] " Fort Plattb, My 1, 1842. " Mr. Fremont : The chiefs having assembled in council, have justl told me to warn yon not to set out before the party of young men which ii[ now out shall have returned. Furthermore, they tell me that they are| very sure they will fire upon you as soon as they meet you. They are ex- pected hack in seven or eight duys ; excuse me for mtiking these observa*! •tions, but it seems my duty to warn you of danger. Moreover, the chiefil who prohibit your setting out before the return of the warriors, are tho| hearers of this note. « I am your obedient servant, ♦•JOSEPH BISSONRTTE, " By L. B. OHARTRAIN. " Names of some of the chiefs : " The Otter Hat, the Breaker of Arrows, the Black Night, the Buiril Tail." , , ' After reading this, I mentioned its purport to my companions, and se«<| ing that all were fully possessed of its contents, one of the Indians rose xx\ and having first shaken hands with me, spoke as follows : " You have come among us at a bad time. Some of our people havd been ki'*'^d, and our young men, who are gone to the mountains, are eagen to avenge the blood of their relations, which has been shed by the whitesi Our young men are bad, and if they meet you they will believe that you are carrying goods and ammunition to their enemies, and will fire npoij you. You nave told us that this will make war. We know that our grea father has many soldiers and big guns, and we are anxious to have o\\\ lives. We love the whites, and are dr irons of peace. Thinking of al| these things, we have determined to keep you here ui:til our warriors re turn. We are glad to see you among us. Our father is rich, and we exi peeled that you would have brought presents to us — horses, and guns, hm blankets. But we are glad to see you. We look upon your coming as iha light which ^oes before the sun ; for you will tell our great father that you havJ seen us, and that we are naked and poor, and have nothing to eat, and he will fiend us all these things." He was followed by the others to the same effect] The observations of the savage appeared reasonable ; but 1 was awarj that they had in view only the present object of detaining me, and wer luiwilling I should go further into the country. In reply, I nsked ther through the interpretation of Mr. Boudeau, to select two or three of theij number to accompany us until we should meet iheir people — they shnula spread their robes in my tent and eat at my table, and on our return I would give them presents in reward of their services. They declined, say| ing that there were no youn^ men left in the village, and that they wer too old to travel so many days on horseback, and preferred now to smokj their pipes in the lodge, and let the warriors go on the war-path. Besidesl they had no power over the young mAi, and were afraid to interfere witlT 4S [243] it Noir, La Queuel B,yu/y 1,1842. council, havo iustl ling men which iai me that they nrel HI. They are ex-" \ng these observi*! sreover, the chiefil } warriors, are thai ONRTTE, OHARTRAIN. : Night, the Buiri^ t ] npanions, and see-l le Indians rose upJ i: I >f our people have )untains, are eageij led by the whites believe that you and will fire upon ujw that our grea xious to have ouil Thinking of all ,il our warriors rej rich, and we exj les, and s[uns, anif our coming as ihfl ither that you hava to eat, and he will lo the same effectJ but 1 was awarif ng me, and we i|y, I asked ihet or three of theii pie — they shouldj on our return ey declined, say] id that they wet •ed now to smokti ii-path. Besides! to interfere with lem. In my turn I addressed them : " You say that you love the whiles ; my have you killed so many already this spring? You say that you love \e whites, irnd are full of many expressions of friendship to us, but you re not willing io undergo the fatigue of a few days' ride to save our lives. if'o do not believe what you have said, and will not listen to you. What- jrer a chief among us tells his soldiers to do, is done. We are the soldier* the great chief, your father. He has told us to come here and see this )untry, and all the Indians, his children. Why should we not go ? Be- fre we came, we heard that you had killed his people, and ceased to be Is children ; but we came among you peaceably, holding out our hands. low we find that the stories we heard are not lies, and that you are no Inger his friends and children. We have thrown away our bodies, and fill not turn back. When you told us that your young men would kill B, you did not know that our hearts were strong, and you did not see the Ifles which my young men carry in their hands. We are few, and you re many, and may kill us all ; but there will be much crying in your vil- l^es, for many of your young men will stay behind, and forget to retura \\i\\ your warriors from the mountains. Do you think Ihat our great lief will let his soldiers die, and forget to cover their graves ? Before the [lows melt again, his warriors will sweep away your villages as the fire 968 the prairie in the autumn. See ! I have pulled down mv trAtVe ouses, and my people are ready : when the sun is ten paces hi^)ier, we liall be on the march. If you have anything to tell us, you will say it in." I broke up the conference, as I could do nothing with these people, id being resolved to proceed, nothing was to be gained by delay. Ac- ^mpanied by oiir hospitable friends, we returned to the camp. We had Counted our horses, and our parting salutations had been exchanged, when lie of the chiefs, the Bull's Tail, arrived lo tell mo that they had deter> lined to send a young man with us ; and if I would point out the place of [ir evening camp, he should join us there. "The young man is poor," jiid he, " he has no horse, and expects you to give him one." I described him the place where I intended to encamp, and shaking hands, in a few linutes we were among the hills, and this last habitation of whites shut u from our view. , The road led over an interesting plateau between the north fork of the llatte on the right and Laramie river on the led. At the distance of ten liles from the fort we entered the sandy bed of a creek, a kind of defile, Jncled by precipitous rocks, down which we wound our way for several lindred yards to a place where, on the left bank, a very large spring gushes litli considerable noise and force out of the limestone rock. It is called me Warm Spring," and furnishes to the hitherto dry bed of the creek a jnsiderable rivulet. On the opposite side, a little below the spring, is a |fty limestone escarpment, partially ^shaded by a grove of large trees, whose reen foliage, in contrast with the whiteness of the rock, renders this a pic- Iresqne locality. The rock is fossiliferous, and, so far as I was able to ^termine the character of the fossils, belongs to the carboniferous lime- >ne of the Missouri river, and is probably the western limit of that forma- )n. Beyond this point I met with no fossils of any description. j I was desirous to visit the Platte near the point where it leaves the Black Jills, and therefor? followed this stream, for two or three mil^s, to the mouth ; [here I encamped on a spot which afforded good grass and prMe (equise- )m) for our animals. Our tents having been found too thin to protect I (1 [243] 44 ourselves and the instrumonts from the rains, which in this etevnted coiq try are attended with cold and unpleasant weather, I had procured fn the Indiana at Laramie a tolerably large lodse, about eighteen feel in diad eier and twenty feet in height. Such a lodge, when properly pitched, i from its roaica! furm,'almost perfectly secure against the violent win which are frequent in this region, and with a fire in the centre is a dry ad warm shelter in bad weather. By raising the lower part so ns to pern the breeze to pass freely, it is converted into a pleasant summer residend with the extraordinary advantage of being entirely free from mosquitc one of which I have never seen in an Indian lodge. While we were i gaged very unskilfully in erectitig this, the interpreter, Mr. Bissoneti arrived, accompanied by the Indian and his wife. She laughed at awkwardness, and offered her assistance, of which we were frequctiij afterward obliged to avail ourselves, before the men acquired sufficient i pertness to pitch it without difficulty. F^rom this place we hod a fine vitj of the gorge where the Platte issues from the Black Hills, changing! character abruptly from a mountain stream into a river of the plains. IJ mediately around us the valley of the stream was tolerably open, and] ^ Ihe distance of a few miles, where the river had cut its way tnrough tf bills, was the narrow clefi, on one side of which a lofty precipice of bri^ red rock rose vertically above the low hills which lay between us. Jiiltf 22. — In the morning, while breakfast was being prepared, I visiii this place with my favorite man, Bosil l.oieunes8e. Entering so far as tha was footing for the mules, we dismountedf, and, lying our animals, conil ued our way on foot. Like the whole country, the scenery of the ri« had undergone an entire change, and wos in this place the must beautil I have ever seen. The breadth of the stream, generally near that of | valley, was from two to three hundred feet, wiih a swift current, occasi( ally broken by rapids, and the water perfectly clear. On either side the red precipices, vertical, and sometimes overhanging, two and four hd dred feet in heisfht, crowned with green summits, on which were scatteil a few pines. At the foot of the rocks was the usual detritus, formed] masses fallen from above. Among the pines that grew here and oni occasional banks were the cheiry. (cerasus vii^inimm) currants, ond grai de bocuf {shepherdia argentea.) Viewed in the sunshine of a pleosont nioj ing, the scenery was of a most striking and romantic beauty, which arJ from the picturesque disposition of the objects and the vivid contrasti colors. I thought with much pleasure of our approaching descent in J canoe through such interesting places; and, in the expectation of being al at that lime to give to thetn a full examination, did not now dwell so muchi might have been desirable upon the geological formations along the linef the river, where they are developed with great clearness. The upper p tion of the red strata consists of very compact clay, in which are occasiond seen imbedded large pebbles. Below was a stratum of compact led snij stone, changing a little above the river into a very hard siliceous limestoj There is a small but handsome open prairie iinmrdiately below this place,| the left bank of the river, which would be a good locality for a military ] There are some open groves of cottonwood on the Platte. The sri . stream which comes in at this place is well timbered with pine, and gii building rock is abundant. I If It is in contemplation to keep open the communications with Oresj Territory, a show of military force iu this country is absolutely necessa lid a coi le most linilitar) Ipper ]>t in atl ^ighborij sts on 45 [243] jid a combination of advantages renders the neighborhood of Fort Laramie |e most suitable place, on the line of the Plutte, for the establishment of ■military post. It is connected with the mouth of the Platte and the Ipper Missouri by excellent roads, which are in frequent use, and would y in any way interfere with the range of the buffalo, on which the ighboring Indians mainly depend for support. It would render any sis on the Lower Platte unnecessary ; the ordinary communication be* keen it and the Missouri being sufficient to control the intermediate In- ins. It would operate effectually to prevent any such coalitions as are w formed amouij^ the Oros Veiures, Sioux, Cheyenne, and other Indians, d would keep the Oret,'ou road through the valley of the Sweet Water id the South Pass of the mountains constantly open. A glance at the p which accompanies this report, will show that it lies at the foot of token and mountainous region, along which, by the establishment of all posts, in the nei(;hborhoud of St. Train's fort, on the South fork of Platte, and Bent's fort, on the Arkansas, a line of communication would formed, by good wagon roads, with our southern military posts, which uld entirely command the mountain passes, hold some of the most ubiesome tribes in check, and protect and facilitate our intercourse with neighboring Spanish settlements. The valliea of the rivers on which y would be situated are fertile ; the country which supports immense rd? o\ 'ifTnlo is admirably adapted to grazing, and herds of cattle mi^ht mu. ' J by the posts, or obtained from tne Spanish country, which auy ;r >'' .d a portion of their provisions to the trading posts mentioned ve. Just as we were leaving the camp this morning our Indian came up, and ted his intention of not proceeding any further until he had seen the rse which I intended to give him. I felt strongly tempted to drive him t of the camp, but his presence appeared to give confidence to my men, id the interpreter thought it absolutely necessary. "I was, therefore, iged to do what he requested, and pointed out the animal, with which Seemed satisfied, and we continued our journey. I had imagined that Bissonette's long residence had made him acauained with the country, according to his advice, proceeded directly forward without attempt- i; to regain the usual road. He afterward informed me that he had rare- ever lost sight of the fort ; but the effect of the mistake was to involve for a day or two among the hills, where, although we lost no time, we countered an exceedingly rough road. To tile south, along our line of march to-day, the main chain of the ckor Laramie Hills rises precipitatous. Time did not permit me to lit them, but, from comparative information, the ridge is composed of the rse sandstone or conglomerate hereafter described. It appears to enter region of clouds, which are arrested in their course and lie in masses ng the summits. An inverted cone of black cloud (cumulus) rested [ring all the forenoon on the lofty peak of Laramie Mountain, which I es- ated to be about two thousand feet above the fort, or six thousand five ndred above the sea. We halted to noon on the Fourche Jrnerc, so called |ra being timbered principally with the/iarrfawierc (a species of poplar), with ich the valley of the little stream is tolerably well wooded, and which, h large expansive summits, grows to the height of sixty or seventy feet, The bed of^the creek is sand and gravel, the water dispersed over the ad bed m several shallow streams. We found here, on the right bank, ■^ ♦ i [248] 49 I -(, in the shade of the trees, a fiae spring of very cold water. It will be marked that I do not mention, in this portion of the journey, the temper ture of the air, sand, springs, d&c, an omission which will be explained the course of the narrative. In my search for plants, I was wel^ re war ' at this place. Wiih the change in the geological fonnation, on leaving Fort Laramii the whole face of the country has entirely altered its appearance. Kastwa of that meridian, the principal objects which strike the eye of a traveller the absence of timber,, and the immense expanse of prairie, covered with Te4;dure of rich erasses, and highly adapted for pasturage. Wherever the are not disturbed by the vicinity of man, large herds of buffalo give anir tion to this country. Westward of Laramie river, the region is sandy an apporenlly sterile ; and the place of the gross is usurped by the artemu and other odoriferous plants, to whose growth the sandy soil and dry air i this elevated region seem highly favorable. One of the prominent characteristics in the face cf the country is the eij traordinary abundance of the artemisiaa. They grow everywhere ; on th hills, and over the river bottoms, in tough, twisted, wirey clumps; ao^ wherever the beaten traci^ was left, they rendered the progress of the ca rough nnd slow. As the country increosed in elevation on our advance i the west, they increased in size \ and the whole air is strongly impregnate and saturated with the odor of camphor and spirits of turpentine which ' longs to this plant. Thjs climate has been found very favorable to the re ioration of heullh, particularly in cases of consumption ; and possibly ih respiration of air, so highly impregnated by aromatic plants, may have son influence. Our dried meat had given out, and we began to be in want of food ; H one of the hunters killed an antelope this evening, which afforded some lief, although it did not go far among so many hungry men. At 8 o'clc at night, after a march of twenty-seven miles, we reached our proposed e4 carapment on the Fer a Cheval, or Horse Shoe cieek. Here we found go grass, with a great quantity ofprile, which furnished good food for our tir animals. This creek is well timbered, principally with liard amirey an with the exception of Deer creek, which we had not yet reached, is the la gest affluent of the right bank between Laramie and the mouth of the Swe Water. Jviy 23. — The present year had been one of unparalleled drought, an throughout the country the water had been almost dried up. By availiq themselves of the annual rise, the traders had invariably succeeded in car ing their furs to the Missouri ; but this season, as has already been mei| tioned, on both forks of the Platte they had entirely failed. The greati number of the springs and m^iny of the streams which made halting pis for the voyaffeurs, had been dried up. Every where the soil looked parchej a^id burnt, the scanty yellow gross crisped under the foot, and even the ha diest plants were destroyed by want of moisture. I think it necessary mention this fact, because to the rapid evoporotion in such an elevated regie ■early 5,000 feel above the sea, almost wholly unprotected by timber, shou be attributed much of the sterile appearance of the country, in the destrucj don of vegetation, and the numerous saline efflorescences which covered ill ground. Such I afterward found to be the case. I was informed that the roving villages of Indians and travellers ha qever met with difficulty in finding an abundance of grass for their horsesl Bd nnd pif.keted. The guns were discharged and reloaded, and men thrown forward, under cover of the bank, in the direction by which (he Indians were expected. Our interpreter, who, with the Indian, hod gone (0 meet ihem, came in in about ten minutes, accompanied by two Sioux. 'hey looked sulky, and we could obtain from (hem only some confused |nforma(ion. We learned that they belonged to the party which had been )n the trail of the emigrants, whom they had overtaken at Rock Indepen- Ifldce, on the Sweet Water. Here the party h(id disagreed, and came nigh itfhting among themselves. One portion were desirous of a((acking the rhites, but the others were opposed to it ; and finally they had broken up Into small bands and dispersed over the country. The greater portion of {hem hud gone over into the territory of the Grows,'and intended to return )y way of the Wind River valley, in the hope of being able to fall upon )mc small parties of Crow Indians. The remainder were returning down [he Platte in scattered parties of ten and twenty, and (hose whom we had Encountered belonged to those who had advocated an attack on the emi- grants. Several of the men suggested shooting them on the spot ; but I >rnmptly discountenanced any such proceeding. They fuither informed le that buffalo were very scarce, and little or no grass to be found. There lad lieen no rain, and innumerable quantities of grasshoppers had destroyed he a[ras8. This insect had been so numerous since leaving Fort Larumie,. hat the ground seemed alive with them ; and in walking, a little moving' [loiiil preceded our footsteps. This was bad news. No grass, no buffalo — for neither horse nor man. I guve them some plugs of tobacco and ley went off, apparently well satif^fied to be clear of us ; for my men did [ot look upon them very lovingly, und (hey glanced suspicioutily at our rarlike preparations, and the little ring of rifles which surrounded them. ^hey were evidently in a bad humor, and shot one of their horses when ley had left us a short distance. We continued our march, and after a journey of about twenty-one miles, icamped on the Platte. During the day, I had occasionally remaf>ked [mong the hills the psoralea escttlenta, the bread root of the Indians. The lioux use this root very extensively, and I have frequently met with it long them, cut into thin slices and dried. In the course of the evening re were visited by six Indians, who told us that a larger party was en- [243] 48 f Hi |l|'' l'i> cumpvd a fow miles above. Astronomicnl observations placed us in longi- tude lUG^ 03' 40", ftijd laiitude 4^° 39' 25". Wo mode the next day twenijr-two miles, and encamnod on the right bnnk of the Platte, whore a hund.iome meadow aflfordea tolerably good grass. There were the remains of an old fort here, thrown up in some sudden emergency, and on the opposite side was a pictiireoqnu bluif of ferruginous sandstone. There was a handsome (trove a little above, and scattered groups of trees bordered the river. BiifTulo made their appear- ance this afternoon, and the huntcn* came in shortly aHer we had encamp- ed, with three tine cows. The night was fine, and observations gave for the latitude of the camp, 42° 47' 40". Julff 25. — We made liut thirteen miles this day, and encamped about noon in a pleasant grove on the right bank. Low scatFolds were erected, , upon which the meat was laid, cut up into thin strips, and small fires kin- dled below. Our object was to profit by the vicinity of the buffalo, to lay | in a stock of provisions for ten or fifteen days. In the cotirse of the after- noon, the hunters brought in five or six cows, and all hands were kept I busily employed in preparing the meat, to the drying of which the guard attended during the night. Our people had recovered their gaiety, and the busy figures around the blazinir fires gave n picturesque air to the camp. A very serious accident occurred this morniuir, in the broakins of| one of the barometers. These had been the object of my constant solici- tude, and, as I had intended them principally for mountain service, I had I used them as seldom as possible; taking them always down at night, and on the wccurrence of storms, in order to lessen the chances of being broken. I was reduced to one, a standard barometer, of Troughton's construction.] This I determined to preserve, if possible. The latitude is 42° 51' 35", and by a mean of the results from chronometer, and lunar distances, the| adopted longitude of this can:p is 106° 25' 10". Juti/ 26. — Early this morning: we were again in motion. Wo had ii stock of provisions fur fifteen days, carefully stored away in the carts, andl this I resolved should only be encroached upon when our rifles should faill to procure us present support. I determined to reach the lAountuins, if ill Mrere in any way possible. In the meantime buffalo were plenty. In sizi miles from our encampment, which, by way of distinction, we shall calll Dried Meat camp, we crossed u handsome stream, called La Fourche BoiaitX It is well timbered, and among the flowers in bloom on its banks, I remark-f ed several asters. Five miles further we made our noon halt, on the banks of the Plattel in the shade of some cottonwoods. There were here, as sfenerally novrl along the river, thickets of hippophatt^ the grains de bwufoi the country.r They were of two kinds ; one bearing a red berry, (the shcpherdia argen\ tia of Nuttall ;) the other a yellow berry, of which the Tartars are said to| make a kind of rob. By a meridian observation, the latitude of the place was, 42° 50' 08^J It Wfi^ my daily practice to take observations of the sun's meridian altitude,! and why they are not given, will appear in the sequel. Ei^ht miles furthe we reached the mouth of Deer creek, where we encamped. Here was all abundance of rich gross, and our animals were compensated for past prival tions. This stream was at this time twenty feet broad, and well timberedl with Cottonwood of an uncommon size. It is the largest tributary of thf Platte between the mouth of the Sweet Water and the Laramie. Our asl river wai course, w 49 [24«] od us in longi- I tronomicti obiervations gave for the mouth of the steam a longitude of 10«o 43' 15", and latitude 42° 52' 24". jfi^y 27. — Nothing worthy of mention occurred on thia day ; we travelled later than usual, having 8|)ent some time in searching for grass, crossing and reciossing the river before we could find a suHlcient quantity for our animals. Toward dusk, we encamped among some artemisia bushes, two and three feot in height, where some scattered patches of short tough grass afforded a scanty supply. In crosaing, we had occasion to observe, that the river was frequently too deep to be forded, though we always succeeded in finding a place where the water did not enter the carts. The stream continued very clear, with two or three hundred feet brendth of water, and the sandy bed and banks were frequently covered with large round pebbles. We had travelled this day twenty-seven miles. The main chain of the Black Hills were here only about seven miles to the south, on the right bank of tho river, rising abruptly to the heigth of eight nnd twelve hundred feet. Patches of f^reen gross in the ravines on the steep sides, marked the presence of springs, and the summits were clad with pines. Jmy 28. — In two miles from our encampmen^we reached the place where the regular road crosses the Platte. There was two hundred foet breadth I of water at this time in the bed. which hos a variable width of eight to fif* tcun hundred feet. The chai...el8 were generally three feet deep, and there were large angular rocks on the bottom, which made the ford in some places a little difficult. Even ut its low stages this river cnn not be crossed at random, and this has always been used as the best ford. The low stage of the waters the present year had made it fordable in almost any part of its {course, where access could be had to its bed. For the satisfaction of travellers, I will endeavor to give some descrip> Ition of the nature of the road from Laramie to this point. The nature of the soil may be inferred from its geological formation. The limestone ot the eastern limit of thia section, is sticceeded by limestone without fossils, a great variety of sandstone, consisting principally of red sandstone and fine conglomerates. I^he red sandstone is argillaceous, with compact white Igypsum or alabaster, very beautiful. The other sandstones are gray, lyellow, and ferruginous, sometimes very coarse. 'I'he apparent sterility of Ithe country must therefore be sought for in other causes than the nature of Ithe soil. The face of the country can not with propriety be called hilly. lit is a succession of long ridges, made by the numerous streams which Icome down from the neighboring mountain range. The ridges have an lundulating surface, with some such appearance as the ocean presents in an Jordinary breeze. The road which is now generally followed through this region is, there- Ifore, a very good one, without any difficult ascents to overcome. The ■principal obstructions are near the river, where the transient waters of jheavy rains have mode deep ravines with steep banks, which renders frequent Icircuits necessary. It will be remembered that wagons pass this road only lonce or twice a year, which is by no means sufficient to break down the Istubborn roots of^ the innumerable artemisia bushes. A partial absence of Ithese is often the only indication of the track, and the roughness produced by liheir roots in many places gives the road the character of one newly opened lin a wooded country. This is usually considered th "'orst part of the lioad east of the mountains, and as it passes through an open prairie region 4 • -^'" [243] 50 may bo much improrcd, so as to avoid (he greater part of the inaqualitii it now prvsoiitd. From ihe mouth of the Kansas to the Green rirrr vnlley. west of il Rocky Mountains, (here is no such thing as o niountain road on the lii of communication. We continued our way, and four miles beyond (he ford, Indians were dii covered again, and 1 halted while a party were sent forward to ascertaiij who they were. In a short time they returned, accompanied by a numb of Indians of the Oglullah band of Sioux. From them we received soi interesting information. They hod formed port of the great village, whicll they informed us hud broken up, and was on its way homo. The gread Rart of the village, including the Arapahoes, Cheyennes, and Oglallat ad crossed the Plutte eighi or ten miles below the mouth of the Swc Water, and were now behind the mountiiins to the south of us, intcndin to regain the Platte by way of Deer creek. They had taken this unusui] route in search of gross and game. They gave us a very didcourasinj picture of tliu country. The great drought, ond the ph^ue of grusehop pers, hud swept it so, that scarce a blade of grass was to be seen, and then was not a buffalo to be found in the wholo region. Their people, thejl further ;)uid, hud been nearly starved to death, and we would find theJ road marked by lodges which they had thrown away in order to mor^ more rapidly, and by the carcases of the horses which (hey had eaten, i which hud perished by starvation. Such was (hn prospect before us. When ho hod finished (he interpretation of these things, Mr. Bissonetti immediately rude up to me and urgently advised (hut 1 should entirelij abandon the further prosecution of my exploration. *' Le meilleure at que je pourraia vous donner^ c*cst de vircr de suited " The best advice | cun give give you, is to turn back at once." It was his own inieniion return, as we had now reached the point to which he hud engaged to ill tend me. In reply, I culled up my men and communicated to them fully th information I hud just received. I (hen expressed to them niv fixed deterini nution to proceed to the ond of the enterprise on which I hud been senj but as the situation of the country gave me some reason tu apprehend tha it might be attended with an unfortunate result (o some of us, I would leaf it optional with thcra to continue with me or to return. Among them were some five or six who I knew would remain. ^1 hud still ten day's provisions; and, should no game be found, when thij stock was expended, we had our horses and mules, which we could ett when other means of subsistence failed. But not a man flinched from tli undertaking. *' We'll eat the mules," said Bitsil Lujounesse; and ther upon we snook hands with our interpreter and his Indians, and par(c^ With (lioin I sent back one of my men, Dumes, whom the effects of an olj wound in the leg rendered incapable of continuing the journey on foo and his horse seemed on the point of giving out. Having resolved to dij| encnml»er ourselves immediately of every thing not.ubaolutely necessary i our future operations, I turned directly in towards the river, and encump on the left bank, a little ubove the place where our council had been helil and wiierc a thick grove of willows offered a suitable spot for the object] had in view. The cans hnvinn; been discharged, the covers and wheels were taken ol| and, with the frames, carried into .some low places among the willows, an concealed in the deu$e foliage in such a maimer that the glitter of the iroi n [2431 work misrht not atlruct ihe obienralion of lome itragglinff Indivn. In tho sand which hod been blown up into waved amonv ihu wilTows, a larps holo was then dug, ten feat iqtiaro and six deep. In the meantime, all our lefTflcis had been Nprcad out upon tho ground, and whatever was designed [to be carried along with us separated and laid anido, und the remaining part carried to the hole and carefully covered up. As much a^ possible all [traces of our proceedings wore obliterated, ond it wanted but a rain to reo- Ider our cftche snfn beyond discovery. All the men were now set at work |to arrange the pack-saddles and make up Ihe packs. The day was very warm and calm, and the sky entirely clear, except |where, as usual along tho summits of the mountainous ridge opposite, the slonds had congregated in masses. Our lodge had been planted, and, on iccount of tho neat, the ground-pins had been taken out, and the lower j)nrt slightly raised. Near to it was standing the barometer, which swung [n a tripod frame; and within the lodge, where a small fire Imd been built, Ir. Preuss was occupied in observing the temperature of boiling wotor. Lt this instant, and without any warning, until it whs within fifty yards, I violent gust of wind dashed down the Imlge, burying under it Mr. Preuss ind about a dozen men, who had attempted to keep it from beingcnrried away. ' succeeded in saving the barometer, which the lodge wos earring off with Itself, but the thermomoier was broken. We had no others of a high grudu> Vioii, none of those which remained going higher than 135° Fahrenheit. lur astronomical observations gave to this place, which we named Cach§ famp, a longitude of 107° 16' 55", latitude 42° 60' 63". JiUy 29. — All our arrangements having been completed, we left the en- impment at 7 o'clock this morning. In this vicinity the ordinary road saves the Platte, and crosses over to the Sweet Water river, which it strikes [ear Rock Independence. Instead of following this road, I had determined keep the immediate valley of the Platte so far as the mouth of the Sweet Tater, in the expectation of finding better grass. To this I was further [rompted by the nature of my instructions. To Mr. Carson was assigned lie office of guide, as we had now reached a part of the country with ^hich, or a great part of which, long residence had made him familiar. In few miles we reached the Red Buites,.a famous landmark in this country, rhose geological composition is red sandstone, limestone, and calcareous jindMone, and puddingatone. The river here cuts its way through a ridge ; on the eastern side of it the lofty escarpments of red argilToceous sandstone, which are called |e Red Buttes. In (his passage tne stream is not much compressed or ml up, there being a bank of considerable though variable breadth on jther side. Immediately on entering we discovered a band of buffalo. [he hunters failed to kill any of ihem, the lending hunter being thrown |to a ravine, which occasioned some delay, and in the meantime the herd imbered up the steep face of ihe ridge. It is sometimes wonderful to see Bse apparently clumsy animals make their way up nnd down the most jfifged ond broken precipices. We halted lo noon before we had cleared |is passage at a spot twelve miles distant from Cnche camp, where we ind an abundance of grass. So far the account of the Indians was found I be false. On the banks were willow and cherry trees. The cherries ere not yet ripe, but in the thickets were numerous fresh tracks of the lizzly hear, which are very fond of this fruit. The soil here is red, the Imposition being derived from the redsnndstone. About seven miles brought f [«48] M ■ vm through the ridge, in whioh iha ooune of the river ii north and lonl Here the valley opetta out broadly, and hi|{h walla of the rrd ioriiialion pr ■ant themaetvea amonir the hilla lo the eatit. We croased here a pretty hi craek^ an aAliieni of tlie right bank. It m well timbered with colionwc in thia vicinity, and the abainthe haa lu«i ita thrublike character, and come imall treea six and eight feet in height, and sonoetimes eight inch in diameter. Two or three milea above thia creek we ma^le our encai mtnt, having travelled to day twenty-flve milee. Our animala fared w« here, as there is an abundance of grass. I^lie river bed ia made up of [ blea, and in the bank at the level of the water is n congionierale of coon pobblee about the site of uatrich egn, and which I remarked in the ' of the Laramie fork. It is overiaKTby a hoII of mixed clay ^nd sand feet thick. By aatronomical obaervations our position is in longitude 1( W mf', and latitude 42^ 38^. Juty 3U. — After travelling about twelve miles this morning, we reached] place where the Indian village hod crossed the river. Here were the of discarded lodges and skeletons of horses lying about. Mr. Carson, w| had never been higher up than this point on the river, which has the chi ncler of being exceedingly rugged and waited in by precipices above, thoii it advisable to camp near this place, where we were certoin of obtainlij grass, and to-morrow make our crossing among the rugged hills to the Swi| Water river. Accordingly we turned back and descended the river to island near by, which won about twenty acres in size, covered with o lui riant growth of grass. The formation here I found highly interesting. Id mediately ai this island the river is again shut up in the rugged hills, whiJ come down to it from the main ridge in n succession of spurs three or f«( hundred feet high, and oliernated with green level prairwont or meadoij bordered on the river banks with thickets of willow, and having many pit to interest the traveller. The islond lies between two of these rids three or four hundred yards apart, of which that on the right bank is posed entirely of red argillaceous sandstone, with thin layers of fibrous j sum. On the Ip ft bank, the ridge is composed entirely of siliceous puddis stone, the pebbles in the numerous strata increasing in size from tne topi the bottom, where they are as large as a man's head. So far as I was al to detemiine, these strata incline to the northeost, with a dip of about l( This puddingslone or conglomerate formation I was enabled to trace throul an extended range of country, from a few miles east of the meridian of Ff Laramie to where I found it superposed on the granite of the Rocky Mc tains, in longitude 109*^ 3(y. From its appearance, the main chain of i Laramie mountain is composed of this ruck ; and in a number of pla I found isolated hills, which served to mark a fonner level, which had probably swept away. These conglomerates are very friable and easily decomposed ; and I inclined to think this formation is the source troni which was derived great deposite of sand and gravel which forms the surface rock of the pr country west of the Mississippi. Crossing the ridge of red sandstone, and traversing the little prairie wh lies to the soulhwurd of it, we made in the afternoon an excursion to a which we have called the Hot Spring Gate. This place hns much the ap() ance of a gale, by which the Platte passes through a ridge composed i white nnd calcareous sandstone. The length of liic paad with colionw( e chamctor, and wtimea eight incli made our encai ■nimali fared wd I i« made up of | jflonierale of coor larked in the ban clay ^nd land li in longitude U rning, we reached! lere were the Mr. Carson, wi rhich liBM (he cha jiices above, thot lerinin of obtniniil d hilli lo the Swi ded the river to vered with a lui ily interesting. Iii rugged hills, whij spurs three or fa riilotu or meadoi baf ing many pla ^0 of these tiig right bank is yera of fibrous i f siliceous pudd size from the topi ■lo fur as I was al dip of about l( >led to trace throu he meridian of F| f the Rocky Mc main chain of i L number of pla el, which had b nposed; and I ;h was derived e rock of the pn s little prairie wh excursion to a ns much the app \dge composed »san(, iintirukfit hy nny rnpiil, and k lalHiiit Mveiilv ynrtla wiiin iHilwrm ihr wiiila, whiiii riMi |>««r|iriiiliriilnrly frum iliM wnlar. To llint uii Ihn ritflit l»unk, which i» iha luwrr, ihn iMiiumalM Knvti A h«iKh( of lhri*n hunriU of mouninin «hA«p,nnd frt>t\u»n\\y hnard iha tnllry of muling Hionnii whith n<'rom|Miiird \\mt fn\m\ lUnnriii drwii lh« iteiip,hilk Thw wiuilhnrtrMi pliirA ni which wn hnd killfld any of ihmfl nnininls; mid, ill conHMjuanca of thin cirriiniiKniicn, nml of ihn idMiodAiicff of theM ulicrp or ((oni«(for (hnv arn callfd liy nnchnaiiifl),Wfl|{nvflioour eiicnin|Hneiit by the iiunin of Omni IrIiukI. Thrir rtfwh in much eiKccined by ihn huii(> t, mid lina xety much lh« flnvor of ili« Allr^ny M(Minini> iheep. I linve fr . i|iieiitly «4ifln (he horna of thin unimul three feet luii(i n d m eiileeii incl^M in circumference nt the bn»», wriKhini; eleven puuuda. Out (> o or * tree of ihran were killrd by our |Miiiy iii thia place, and of tlican tlr liorr were iinnli. The uae of these huriia iN>em to be to protect ihe aiiiiiinl a heud^ in piichinff down prttcipicea to avoid punuini; wolvea — (heir oi ./ anfct^ beiri^ in plncee where they can not be followed. The bonea nru very atroni? mid Holid, the marrow occupyiiiff but n very aiiiall portion of the iMine in . «s leg, oliout the ihickneae of a rye Diriiw. 'rhe huir it uhort, reaerhling (be wiitinr color of our common deer, which it nenrly npproaclica it * a and appearance. I<]xcept in ihn horiia, it boa no reaemblunce who! ver > the ont. The lon^iiudo of this place, reautting from chronoinvier and lunar iainncea, and nn occultalion of • Arioiia ia lOZ'^ 37' 27", and the latitude A2^ 3',V \i7". One of our horaos, which had given out, we left to receive strength on the laland, intending to take her, perhana, on our return. Jttly 31. — Thia morning we left the courae of tfie IMatte to cr v over lo (he Sweet VVaier. Our way for n few milea lay up the anndy bed of a dry reek, in which I found several mtereating plania. Leaving thia wo wound ur way to the summit of (he hilla, of which (he peaka are here eight hun- red feet above the Platte, bare ond rocky. A long and gradual alope led rom ihcae hilla lo the Sweet Water, which we reached in fifteen miles from loat lalnnd. I made an early encampment here, in order lo give the hun- era an opportunity to procure a 8iipply from aeverul . <:-'*n of buflfalo, which uade their appearance in (he valley near by. The t . ' :i here ia about sixty ^eet wide, and at (his time twelve to eighteen inches deep, with a very mod* rate current. The adjoining prairies are sandy ; but the imr^ dinte river bottom is a good oil, whicn afforded an abundance of soft greer ,nui8 to our horses, and wnere found u variety of interesting plants, wli.ci. made their appearance for the iirsi time. A rain to-night rnuile it unpleasantly cold -, and there was no tree ere to enable us lo pitch our 8in;,!e lent, the poles of which had been left t Cache camp. We had, therefore, no shelter except what was (o be found he cover of tlie absinthe bushes, which grow in many thick patches, one or wo ami sometimes three feet high. AufTuat 1. — The hunters went ahead this morning, as bnfTalo appeared olerably abundant, and I was desirous to secure a small stock of provisions, nd we moved about seven mites up the valley, and encamped one mile elow Ilock Independence. This is an isolated granite rock, about six undied and fifty yards long, and forty in height. Bxcept in a depression f the sutiimit, where a little soil supports a scanty growth of shrubs, with a ! i1 [243] 54 solitary dwnrf |»ine, it is entirely bare. Everywhere within six or eight feet of the ground, where the surface is sufliciently tmooth, and in some places sixty or eigiity feet above, the rock is inscribed with the names of travellers. Many a name fumous in the history of this country, and some well-known to science, are to be found mixed among those of the traders and of travellers for pleasure and curiosity, and of missionaries among the Mivages. Some of these have been washed away by the lain, but the greater number arc still very legible. The position of this rock is in longitude 107° 66', latitude i'^y 2U' 36". We remained at our camp of Aujifust Ut until noon of the next day,'occupied in drying meat. By observation, the longitude of the place is 107° 66^ latitude 42° 29" 66". August 2. — Five miles above Rock Independence we came to a place called the Devil's Gale, where the Sweet Water cuts through the point of a granite ridge. The length of the passage is about three hundred yards, and the width thirty-live yards. The walls of ruck are vertical, and about four hundred feet in height ; und the stream in the gate is almost entirely choked up by masses which have follen from above. In the wall, on the right bank, is a dyke of tmp rock, cutting through a fmegraincd gray granite. Near the point of this ridge crop out some strata of the valley formation, consisting of grayish micaceous sandstone, and fine grained conglomerate, ond wu . We encamped eight miles above the Devil's Gate, of which a view is given in the annexed plate. 1'here was no tim- ber of any kind on the river, but good fires were made of drift wood, aided by the bois de vache. We hud to night no shelter from the rain, which commenced with squalls of wind about sunset. The country here ia exceedingly picturesque. On cither side of the valley, which is four or five miles broad, the mountains rise to the height of twelve and fifteen hundred, or two thousand feet. On the south side, the range appears to be timbered, and to-night is luminous I with fires, probably the work of the Indiatis, who have just passed through the valley. On the north, broken and granite masses rise abruptly from the |E[reen sward of the river, terminating in a line of broken summits. Except in the crevices of the rock, and here ond there on a ledge or bench of the [ mountain, where a few hardy pines have clustered together, these are per- fectly bare and destitute of vegetation. Among these masses, where there are sometimes isolated hills and ridges, | green valleys open in upon the river, which sweeps the base of these moun- tains for thirty six miles. Everywhere its deep verdure and profusion of I beautiful flowers is in pleasing contrast with the sterile grandeur of the) rock, and the barrenness of the sandy plain, which, from the right bank "fl the river sweeps up to the mountain range that forms its southerii boundary. [ The great evaporation on the sandy soil of this elevated plain, and thej saline efflorescences which whiten the ground, and shine like lakes reflect- ing the sun, make a soil wholly unfit for cultivation. Ausrust 3. — We were early on the road the next morning, travelling along j the upland part of the valley, which is overgrown with artemisia. Scat- tered about on the plain are occasional small isolated hills. One of these j which I examined, about fifty feet high, consisted of white clay and marl, in nearly horizontal strata. Several bands of buffalo made their appearance to-day, with herds of antelope ; and a grizzly bear — the only one we encoun- tered during the journey — was seen scrambling up among the rocks. As we passed over a slight rise near the river, we caught the first view of the bin six or eight Dth, and in some ith the names of tuntry, and some ise of the traders inries among the n, but the greater : is in longitude ip of August Ut ' observation, the come to a place High the point of 9 hundred yards, iriical, and about i almost entirely the wall, on the inegraincd gray niR of the valley and finegrained bove the Devil's here was no tim- drift wood, aided iced with squalls icturesqiie. On d, the mountains lusand feet. On ight is luminous I t passed through bruptly from the iinmits. Except or bench of the | er, these are per- hills and ridges, { 3 of these moun- md profusion of i rrnndeur of the f le right bank <>f | therri boundary. " plain, and the j ce lakes reflect- 1 travelling along! 'temisia. Scat- One of these | clay and marl, I leir appearance | )ne we encoun- the rocks. As I ist view of the WindR to be a ment th tions of Swilzerli amidst t) nal snoM where v I onmerou garden, dians, be( I travel ; Atiffusi I climbed rocks WO! of the proceed which tni consisting struck it { I Domical o Auffuat I ably cold, bad that m island, abc a dense gr timber tSCc I the sun bn I P. M., was I northwest. lit) the neig jTaliey forn Ion the rigl ] eighty feet Isist of a fi M [248] Wind River mountains, appenring at this distance of about seventy miles, to be a low and dark mountainous ridge. The view dissipated in a mo- ment the pictures which had bee > cnuted in our minds, by many descrip- tions of travellers, who have compared these mountains to the Alps m Switzerland ; and speak of the glittering peaks which rise in icy majesty amidst the eternal glaciers nine or ten thousand feet into the region of eter- nal snows. The nakedness of the river was relieved by groves of willows, where we encamped at night, after a march of twenty-six miles; and numerous bright colored flowers had' made the river bottom look gay as a nrden. We found here a horse, which had been abandoned by the In- I dians, because his hoofs had been so much worn that he was unable to travel ; aid during the night, a dog came into the camp. Aitffitst 4. — Our camp was at the foot of the Granite mountains, which we I climbed this morning to toke some barometrical heights ; and here among the rocks was seen the nrst magpie. On our return we saw one at the mouth of the Platte river. Wo left here one of our horses, which was unable to proceed further. A few miles from the encampment we left the tiver, which makes a bend to the south, and traversiiig an undulating country, I consisting of a grayish micaceous sandstone and fine-grained conglomerates, struck it again, and encamped after a journey of twenty-five miles. Astro • nomical observations placed us in latitude A2° 32' 30". August 6. — The mo'.ning was dark, with a driving rnin, and disagree* I ably coli. We continued our route as usual, but the weather became so I bad that we were ^lad to avail ourselves of the shelter offered by a small island, about ten miles above our last encampment, which was covered with a dense growth of willows. There was fine grass for our animals, and the timber afforded us comfortable protection and good fires. In the afternoon the sun broke through the clouds for a short time, and the barometer at 5 P. M., was at 23.713, the thermometer 60°, with the wind strong from the northwest. We availed ourselves of the fine weather to make excursions in the neighborhood. The river, at this place, is bordered by hills of the iTalley formation. They are of moderate height, one of the highest peaks on the right bank being, according to the Barometer, one hundred end leighty feet above the river. On the left bank they are higher. They con- Isist of a fine white clayey sandstone, a white calcareous sandstone, and |coarse sandstone or pudding-stone. August 6. — It continued steadily raining all the day ; but, noiwithstand- ig, we left our encampment in the afternoon. Our animals had been Imuch refreshed by their repose, and an abundance of rich, soft grass, which Ihad been much improved by the rains. In about three miles, we reached Ithe entrance of & kariT/on, where the Sweet Water issues upon the more lopen valley we had passed over. Immediately at the entrance, and super- limposed directly upon the granite, are strata of compact, calcareous sand- Istone and chert, alternnting with fine white and reddish white, and fine [gray and red sandstones. These strata dip to the eastward at an angle of jabout 18°, and form the western limit of the sand and limestone forma- Itions, on the line of our route. Here we entered among the primitive 7ocks. The usual road passes to the right of this place, but we wound, or ^rather scrambled, our way up the narrow valley for several hours. Wild- jiiess and disorder were the character of this scenery. The river had been jswollen by the late rains, and came rushing through with an impetuous Icurreiit, three or four feet deep, and generally twenty yards broad. The it a [248] t^ VAlley was sometimes the breadth of tho stream, and sometimes opened into h'ttic green meadows, sixty yards wide, with open groves of aspen. The stream was bordered throughout with aspen, beech, and willow ; and tall pines grew on the sides and'summits of the crags. On both sides, the {granite rocks rose precipitously to the height of tfirce hundred and five lundred feet, terminating in jogged and broken pointed peaks ; and frag* inenta of fallen rock lay piled up at the foot of the precipices. Gneiss, mica slate, and a white granite, were among the vorieties 1 noticed. Here were many old traces of beaver on the stream, remnants of dams, near which were lying trees, which they had cut down, one and two feet ia diameter. The nills entirely shut up the river at the end of about five miles, and we turned up a ravine that led to a high pruirio, which seemed to be the general level of the country. Hence, to the summit of the ridge, there is a regular and very gradual rise. Blocks of granite were piled up at the heads of the ravines, and small bare knolls of mica slate and milky quartz protruded at frequent intervals on the prairie, which was whitened in occasional spots with small salt lakes where the water had evaporated, and left the bea covered with a shining incrustation of salt. The evening was very cold, a northwest wind driving a fine rain in our faces, and at nightfall we descended to a little stream on which we encamped, about two miles from the Sw^ i Water. Here had recently been a very large camp of Snake and Crow Indians, and some large poles lying about afibrd* cd the means of pitching a tent, and making other places of shelter. Our fires to-night were made principally of the dry branches of the ariemisia, whicli covered the slopes. Tt burns quickly, with a clear oily flame, and makes a hot fire. The hills here are composed, of hard, compact mica slate, with veins of quartz. Augiut 7. — We left our encampment with the rising sun. As we rose from the bed of the creek, the snow line of the mountains stretched grandly before us, the while peaks glittering in the sun. They hud been hidden in the dark weather of the last few days, and it had been snowinif on them, while it rained in the plains. We crossed a ridge, and again stiuck the Sweet Water ; here, a beautiful swift stream, with a more open valley, timbered with beech and cottonwood. It now began to lose itself in the many sn.all forks which make its head, and we continued up the main stream until near noon, when we left it a few miles to make our noon halt on a small creek among the hills, from which the stream issues by a small opening. Within was a beautiful grassy spot, covered with an open grove of large beech trees, among which I found several plants that I had not previously seen. The afternoon was cloudy, with squalls of rain ; but the weather be- came fine at sunset, when we again encamped on the Sweet Water, within a few miles of the South Pass. The country, over which we have passed to-day, consists principally of the compact mica slate, which crops out on all the ridges, making the uplands very rocky and slaty. In the escarp- ments which border the creeks, it is seen alternating with a light colored granite, at an inclination of 45° ; the beds varying in thickness from two or three feet to six or eight hundred. At a distance, the graniie frequently has the appearance of irregular lumps of clay, hardened by exposure. A variety of asters may now be numbered among the characteristic plants, and the artemisia continues in full glory; but cacti have become rare, and mosses begin to dispute the hills with them. The evening was damp and 57 [248] unpleaaant, the thermometer at 10 o'clock bfcin? at 36^, and the grass wet with a heavy dew. Our astronomical observHtions placed this encamp- ment in longitude 109° 51' 29", and latitude 42° 27' 16"'. Early in the morning we resumed our journey, the weather still cloudy, with occasional rain. Our general course was west, as I hnd determined to cross the dividing ridge by a bridle path among the broken country more immediately at the foot of the mountains, and return by the wagon road two and a half miles to the south of the point where the trail crosses. About six miles from our encampment brought us to the summit. The ascent had been so gradual that, with all the intimate knowledge possessed by Carson, who had made this country his home for seventeen years, we were obliged to watch very closely to find the place ot which we had reached the culminating point. This was between too low hills, rising on either hand tifty or sixty feet. When I looked back at them from the foot of the imme- diate slope on the western plain, their summits appeared to be about one hun- dred and twenty feet above. From the impression on my mind at this time, and subsequently on our return, I should compare the elevation which we surmounted immediately at the pass, to the ascent of the Capitol hill from (he avenue, at Washington. It is difficult for me to fix positively the breadth of this pass. From the broken ground where it commences, at the foot of the Wind River chain, the view to the southeast is over a chamjUkign coun- try, broken, at the distance of nineteen miles, by the Table Rock ; which, with the other isolated hills in its vicinity, seems to stand on a comparative plain. This I judged to be its termination, the ridge recovering its rugged character with the Table Rock. It will be seen tbut it in no manner re- sembles the places to which the term is commonly applied — nothing of the goige-like character and winding oscents of the Allegany passes in America, nothing of the Great St. Bernard and Simplon passes in Eucope. Approach- ing it from the mouth of the Sweet Water, a sandy plain, one hundred and twenty miles long, conducts, by a gradual and regular ascent, to the summit, about seven thousand feet above the sea ; and the traveller, without being reminded of any change by toilsome ascents, suddenly finds himself on the waters which flow to the Pacific ocean. By the route we had travelled, the distance from Fort Laramie is three hundred and twenty miles, or nine bun* dred and fifty from the mouth of the Kanzas. Continuing our march, we reached, in eight miles from the pass, the Little Sandy, one of the tributaries of the Colorado, or Green river of the Gulf of California. The weather had grown fine during the morning, and we re- mained here the rest of the day, to dry our baggage and take some astronomi- cal observations. The stream was about forty feet wide, and two or three deep, with clear water and a full swift current, over a sandy bed. It was limbered with a growth of low, bushy and dense willows, among which were little verdant spots, which gave our animals fine grass, and where I found a number of interesting plants. Among the neighboring hills I noticed frag- ments of granite containing magnetic iron. Longitude of the camp was 110° 07' 46", latitude 42° 27' 34". August 9. — We made our noon halt to day on Big Sandy, another tributary of Green river. The face of the country traversed was of a brown sand of granite materials, the detritus of the neighboring mountains. Strata of the milky quartz cropped out, and blocks of granite were scattered about containing magnetic iron. On Sandy creek the formation was of parti- colored sand, exhibited in escarpments fifty to eighty feet high. In the 1848] 08 •flemoon we had a Mvere itorm of hail, and encamped at sunset on the fint New Fork. Within the space of a few miles ihc Wind mouniaius •upply a number of tributaries taOreen river, which are ail called the New Forks. Near our camp were two remarkable isolated hills, one of them •ufficiently larfi;e to merit the name of mountain. They ore called the Two Buttes, and will serve to identify the place of our encampment, which the observations of the evening placed in longitude 110° 29' 17", and latitude A29 i^if 46". On the right bank of the stream, opposite to the large hill, the strata which are displayed consist of decomposing granite, which sup* plies the brown sand of which the faf:e of the country is composed to a con* •ideroble depth. August 10. — The air at sunrise is clear and' pure, and the morning ex* iremeTy cold, but beautiful. A lofty snow peak of the mountain is glittering in the first ruys of the sun, which has not yet reached us. The long mountain wall to the east rising two thousand feet abruptly from the plain, behind which we see the peaks, is still dark, and cuts cleor ogainst the glowing sky. A fog, just risen from the river, lies along the base of the mountain. A little before sunrise the thermometer was at 36°, and at sunrise 33°. Water froze last night, and fires are very comfortable. The scenery becomes hourly more interesting and grand, and the view here is truly magnificent; but, indeed, it needs something to repay the long prairie journey of a thousand miles. The sun has just shot above the wall, and makes a mogi- cal change. The whole valley is glowing and bright, and all the moun- tain peaks are gleaming liko silver. Though these snow mountoins are Dot the Alps, they have tneir own character of grandeur and mngnifiicence, and will doubtless find pens and pencils to do them justice. In the scene before us we feel how much wood improves a view. The pines on the mountain seemed to give it much additional beauty. I was agreeably dis- appointed in the character of the streams on this side of the ridge. Instead of the creeks which description had led me to expect, I find bold broad streams, with three or four feet water and a rapid current. The fork on which we are encamped is upwards of a hundred feet wide, timbered with groves pr thickets of the low willow. We were now approaching the lofti- est part of the Wind River chain, and I lefl the valley a few miles from our encampment, intending to penetrate the mountains as far as possible with the whole party. We were soon involved in very broken ground, among long ridges covered with fragments of granite. Winding our way up a long ravine, we came unexpectedly in view of a most beautiful lake, set like a gem in the mountains. The sheet of water lay transversely across the dii-ection we had been pursuing; and, descending the steep, rocky ridge, where it was necessary to lead our horses, we followed its banks to the southern extremity. Here a view of the utmost magnificence and grandeur hurst upon our eyes. With nothing between us and their feet to lessen the effect of the whole height, a grand bed of snow-capped moun- tains rose before us, pile upon pile, glowing in the bright light of an Au- gust day. Immediately below them lay the lake between two ridges covered with dark pines, which swept down from the main chain to the spot where we siood. Here, where the lake glittered in the open sunlight, its banks of yellow sand and the light foliage of aspen groves contrasted well with the gloomy pinen. " Never before," said Mr. Prenss, " in this country or in Europe, have 1 seen such magnificent, grand rocks." I wns so much pleased with the beauty of the place that I dete.^iined to make 59 [248] the m(tin camp here, where our animals would find good pasturage, and explore the mountains with a small party of men. Proceeding a little fur- ther, we came suddenly upon the outlet of the lake where it found its way through a narrow pussav*^ l)ctween low hills. Dark pines which overhune the stream and masses of rock where the water foamed along gave it much romantic buauty. Where we crossed, which was immediately at the outlet, it is two hundred and fifty feet wide, and so deep that with difficulty we were able to ford it. Its bed was an accumulation of rocks, boulders, and broad slabs, and largo angular fragments, omong which the animals fell repeatedly. The current was very swift, nnd the water cold and of a crystal purity. In crossing this stream, I met with a great misfortune in having ray barom- eter broken. It was the only one ; a great part of the interest of the jour- ney for me was in the exploration of these mountains, of which so much had been said that was doubtful and contradictory ; and now their snowy peaks rose mnjesticu.iy before me, and the only meai.s of giving them an- I ilieiitither astronomical points. We Ihud no other compass than the small ones used in sketching the country ; but from an azimuth, in which one of them was used, the variation of the Icompuss is 18° east. The correction made in our field work by the astro- |notnical observations indicates that this is a very correct observation. As soon as the camp was formed, I set about endeavoring to repair my jbarometer. As I have already said, this was a standard cistern-barometer, lof Troughton's construction. The glass cistern had been broken about Imidvvay ; but as the instrument had been kept in a proper position, no air ■had found its way into the tube, the end of which haa always remained covered. I had with me a number of vials of toleiably thick glass, some lof which were of the same diameter as the cistern, and 1 spent the day in slowly working on these, endeavoring to cut them of the requisite length ; Ibut OS my instrument was a very rough file, 1 invariably broke them. A Igroove was cut fn one of the trees, where the barometer was placed during jihe night, to be out of the way of any possible danger, and in the morning I I commenced again. Among the powder horns in the camp, 1 found one which was very transparent, so that its contents could be almost as plainly [248] I', seen m through gliu*. This I boiled, and stretchnd on a piece of wood to the roqiiiiite diamrter, mid scrnped it very thin, in order to incn'aie to the utmost its tranipurencyr. I then socurod ii lirmly in its place on ihe instru* ment with strong glue, made from a buffalo, and filled it with mercury properly heated. A piece of skin, which had covered one of the phials, furnished a good pocket, which was well secured with strong thread and glue, and then the brass eover was screwed to its place. The instrument was left tome lime to dry, and when I reversed it, a few hours after, I had the satisfaction to And it in perfect order ; its indications being alraut the same as on the other side of the lake, before it had been broknii. Our sue* c(«ss in this little incident ditfiised pleosure throughout the camp, and we immediately set obout our preparations for ascending the mouniains. As will be seen, on reference to u map, on this short mountuin chain are the head waters of four great rivers of the continent ; namely, the Colorado, Columbia, Missouri, and Platte rivers. It had been my design, after hav- ing ascended the mountains, to continue our route on the western side of the range, and crossing through a pass at the northwestern end of the chain, about thirty miles from our present camp, return along the eastern slope, across the heads of the Yellowstone river, and join on the line to our station of August 7, immediately at the foot of the ridge. In this w&y, I should be enabled to include the whole chain, and its numerous waters, in my survey; but various considerations induced me, very reluctantly, to abandon this plan. I was desirous to keep strictly within the scope of my instructions, and it would have required ten or fifteen additional days for the accomplishment of this object; our animals had become very much worn out with the length of the journey ; game was very scarce ; and, though it does not appear in the course of the narrative, as I have avoided dwelling upon trifling inci« dents not connected with the objects of the expedition, the spirits of the men had been much exhausted by the huniships and privations to which they had been subjected. Our provisions had well nigh all disappeared. Bread had been long out of the question, and of all our slock we had remaining two or three pounds of colfee, and a binall quantity of macaroni, which had been husbanded Aviih great care for the mountain expedition we were about to undertake. Our daily meal consisted of dry buffalo meal, cooked in tal- low ; and, as we had not dried this with Indian skill, part of it was spoiled ; and what remained of good, was as hard as wood, having much the lasle and appeamnce of so many pieces of bark. Even of this our stock was rapidly diminishing in a camp which was capable of consuming two buffalo in every twenty-four hours. These animals had entirely disappeared, and it was not probable that we should fall in with them again until we returned to the Sweet Water. Our arrangements for the ascent were rapidly completed ; we were in a hostile country, which rendered the greatest vigilance and circumspection necessary. The pass at the north end of the mountain was generally infest- ed by Blackfeet, and immediately opposite was one of their forts, on the edge of a little thicket, two or three hundred feet from our encampment. We were posted in a grove of beech, on the margin of the lake, and a few hundred feet long, with a narrow prairiUon on the inner side, bordered by the rocky ridge. In the upper end of this grove we cleared a circular space about forty feet in diameter, and with the felled timber and interwoven branches surrounded it with a breastwork five feet in height. A gap was left «1 [U»l we were in a for a gale on the inner tide, by which the animals were to be driven in and secured, while the men slept around the liiile work. It was half hidden by the rolioge ; and gairisoneo b^ twelve resfilute men, would have set at deA- •nee any band of savases which might chance to discover them in the inter- val of our absence. FiAeen of the best mules, with fourteen men, were selected for the muunlain party. Our proviHions consisted of dried meat for two days, with our liiile stocic of coffee aiul some macaroni. In addition to the barometer and a thermometer, I look with me a sextant and sp_, glass, and we had, of course, our compasses. In charge of the camp I ltd lleni er, one of my most iruslwonhy men, who possessed the most determined courage. August 12. — Early in the morning we left the camp, fifteen in number, well armed of course, and mounted on our best mules. A pack animal carried our provisions, with a coflee-pot and ke(tle,and three or four tin cupe. Kvery man had a blanket strapped over his saddle lo serve for his bed, and the instruments were carried by turns on their backs. We entered directly on rough and rocky ground; and, just after crossing the ridge, had the good fortune to shoot an antelope. We heard the rour, and hud a glimpse of a waterfall as we rode along ; and crossing in our way two fine streams, trtb- tilary to the Colorado, in about two hours ride we reached the top of the first row or range of the mountains. Here, nguin, h view of the most roman- tice beauty met our eyes. It seemed as if, from the vast expanse of unin- terestinj; prairie we had passed over, nature had collected all her beauties to- gether in one chosen place. We were overlooking a deep valley, which was entirely occupied by three lakes, and from the brink the surrounding ridffes rose precipitously five hundred and a thouHund feet, covered with the dark green of the balsam pine, relieved on the border of the lake with the light foliage of the aspen. They all communicated with each other, and the green of the waters, common to mountain lakes of great depth, showed that it would be impossible to cross ihein. The surprise manifested by our guides when these impassable obstacles suddenly barred our progress, proved that they were among the hidden treasures of the place, unlcnown even to the wandering trappers of the region. Descending the hill, we proceeded to make our way along the margin to the southern extremity. A narrow strip of angular fragments of rock, sometimes aflforded a rough pathway for our mules, but generally we rode along the shelving side, occasionally scram- bling up at a considerable risk of tumbling buck into the lake. The slope was frequently bO° ; the pines grew densely together, and the ground was covered with the branches and trunks of trees. The air was iragrant with the odour of the pines ; and I realized this delightful morning the pleasure of breathing that mountain air which makes a constant theme of the hunter's praise, and which now made us feel as if we had all been drinking some exhilirating gas. The depths of this unexplored forest were a place to delight the heart of a botanist. There was a rich undeigrowth of plants, and numerous gay colored flowers in brilliant bloom. We reached the outlet at length, where some freshly barked willows that lay in the water showed that beaver had been recently at work. There were some small brown squirrels jumping about in the pinea, and a couple of large mallard ducks swimming about in the stream. The hills on this southern end were low, and the lake looked like a mimic sea, as the waves broke on the sandy beach in the force of a strong breeze. There was a pretty, open spot, with fine grass for our mules, and we made {848] «2 k|l,^ •1 ( our noon halt on (he beach, tindor (he nhncfe of tome large h^tmlocki. We reaumed our journRy after a hull of about nn hour, mokini; our way up (ha ridge on the weatern lide of (he Inki*. In learch of amooihrr ground, we nxM a liule inland ; nnd, paacing through grovea of aapi*ii, loon found our- aelves ngmin among ihe |Miifa. Kinerging from iheee, we itruck ihe aummil of ihe ridffe above the upper end of the lake. We had readied a very elevated point, and in (he valley l>t>low, and among thft hillt, were a number of lakea at different leveU; aomeitwo or three liun- drei feet above olhen, Willi which they rommnnicntrd by foaming torrent*. Kvoi to our great height (ho roar of (he calaraciii eann np, and we rniild lee theni leaping down in line* of mowy foam. From thia Kcene of buay wa- (art, we turned abruptly into the ilillneee of a forest, where we rode among the open belli of the pines over a lawn of verdant grass, having strikingly the air of cultivated grounds. This led u<<, after a time, among mmwes of rock which had no vegetable earth but in hollows and crevit-its, thoiigti >«till (he pine forest continued. Toward evening, we reached a deflle, or rather a hole in the moumains, entirely shut in by ni (i\i\}i ti) iiiaku I ureru (illu( (li!«ceii(Jii); liii^fu fruifi TlioMO coil trcoiiuiiily n)CKs. M liiiiiseir t'lr clniiihored llie foot of pietly Wt'll was u rock iVoiitiHoiHct iiroiiiid till! otiiors, Was i;fro(i8, as \iy the t selves all c puny, we « same int'us Dunks of fi tmi, which Ijfilow Urt, f We hud leu iree was (o cold sides oi our mules v flowers of i o:i I ^^^ J il', • m -• "> ^^ ■:} iiiitt)«, whan A« •iiiklfiiily r«ni:lii«(l Iih iwriiiiMiilion in oiu! otihu urniiil vitiWH, which, ol I'vdry (iiiu, iiittrt ilm iruvi'llrr in iliix iiiiiuiDtK'uiil rvjuuu. IIciq iho lioHia ii|> which wii hutl irnvi'lU'd, o|m'||i>iJ itiii into u miimiII hiwi), whvrw, III It Ulllfl hik'*, iho Hlroiiin hml ii* MMirco. Thnru Wiirit imiiim) linu UMivta ili hlixnii, hiii nil llic llowrriii'if |tliiiilM up- |M'iirii(l toMHtk thi> nhrhrriii ih«t ri»(oil itiitl Iwpl oiii of ihtf way i>t ih** wiiKiii. liiinuitJitiluly lit (iiir i'l'cl u |)r«'iri|iiitiiiit iUmhiiI loi ii> u ntiiiiiNioii ol dctih*, iiiid hoi'ora ii« riwo thn iimmhiUiiiin im wi* hiivit ri|)rt'>i'ni< il ilicin iii (Iim an- imxi'd view, il ii« tioi hy tho !«|>li'iiili)i oi tm nit' vi< \vn, wIim Ii hiivo Inn Hiirh II ((lory III ilii< Alpii, iliui iIh'mi niiitri'sii ili<* iiniiii ; Ixil hy a it\U^iUUc liiMoriirr oi' iMiiM'iiiiiiiH iiiii.xM'N, niui » iniily. mIiiiI up III tlii'ir hicrii ri'civ-Mcw. 'I'lifir wiIiIiusn Mvwn u'cll Ntntrd to Ihc ('hiirtii;ii>r lit iIdi pi't)plo who iiihnhii ilit* I'luiiiliy. I di-icriiiiiK'il lu liNiv*^ our iiniiii lU lu'ic, and iiiaki' llit< riNt nt iiiir wny on ti)Ot. 'I'lii- piiili ii|ip«>ai'<'d M> innr Unit iIhti' umi im diiill ol our rctiiriilii;; licloiit Miuht, mill II l(iw iiii!n \\«*ri' ii^li in cluirui' *>! ilio miiirs, wiiji mir pit)* viHjoiiN and hlaiiki'lN, Wc* look Willi iih nothiii;; hnl oiir llrlll^ and niNlru- iiiiinni, and iii llit! day hud hrioiiKt waiin, ihr <{ri'iii(>r pait liMt our coolti. Ilaviii;,' inadu an c.uiy dinner, wo !i;aiii;d uufitin. U C W(!ri> mioii iiivnivcd ill till) moNt rttfjjud pircipici'N, niMiriii}; the ci'iilni! chmii very ylowly, and risinif liiit liilh>. 'l*h(> (ii<4t rid^u hnl a .siinesioii olotlu-iM, and wlii'ii with i;ri*ni tiiti;;no and dillii'.iiliy wi! hud cliincd ii|) livi' hinidicd ti>rt, it wat« hut to niaku nil oipial discciit on the othrr ?iiil(3 ; all thcru iiiii>rveiiiii}( plncoM wore iillud with Minall dtp lakrN, which tiiot thu uyu in uvcry diiociion, (litdconditi^ tVuiii oin; luvnl lo aiiothor, Hniiii'tmius under hrid^os rornitHl hy liiiifo frttjirineiils ot'uraiiitr, lu'iuutli which wad henrd the roar uf the waiur. ThcMu consinnily ohHtrncti'd oiir path, torcin$< us to make long diiows ; tieoiiuiiily ohiiiifd to riiiutct^ our Mops, and I'rfqiiently falling uinon^ the rocks. Muxwull was prreipiiati>d toward the fnco of u precipice, and wtyed liiinseif from }roin)|f ovttr hy throwin^r hini.sulf flat on the f^roiirid. Wo ciniulxired on, alwitya «>x|)i>r:tiiiir with every rid^'o that w:> croi>sod, to reach tilt' foot of the poalts, niid always ili.snppointcd, uiliil ahoiit 4 o'clock, when, predy well worn out, wc narlied tin- hhoru of a litllo lake, in which there was u rocky islniid, and (Voiii which we ohtained the view ;rivi'n in the IrontiHoiHcc. We remained lii-ii; a short tiine lo rest, and cDtiiinned on iiroiiMU the lake, whirli had in Moine places a heacli of while siiiid, and in others, was hoiind with loek.-', over which the way was dillieiill and dan- gerous, as iho water from innnnicinhU'. spiin^s made them very sli|)pery. By I he time we had reached iIh: rnilher dide of ilie hike, we found our* selves all exci.-edinjjly falijrned, and nmch lo the ^iilisliiciion of the whole piiily, we encam|)cd. The k[)oi we hail cIiomm was n liioad (liil rock, in SDitic incumne pioleclcd Imm the windd hy ihe ttiirKinnihii!; cr. Near ity wi\^ a foaming lor- feiit, which lumhled into the lillle lake ahoni one hundred and fifty feel helow ua, nnd which, by way of di.^iinction, we have called bliinri lake. Wc hud reached ihe upper limit of the piney ri>;;ion ; aa, ahove lliia point, no tree was to be seen, and patches of snow lay everywhere around us on ihe cold aides of ilie rocks. 'I'lio llora of the ie|Lrion wc hud iravcrcd since leaviiijy our mules wus cxlreniely rich, und anion;;: ihe cliuracicrisiic plants, the scuilel flowers of the doikcatheon ittnlatutii t\ciywhere met the eye in gieal ubun- [243] 64 r (Innce. A small gtctn ravine, on the edge of which \Vo were eiicambed, wnS filled wlih a profusion of Alpine pinnu in brilliuni bloom. From bnmmei' ricnl observations, niiulu during our three days' sojourn at this pinco, its ele- vation abovu the Ou\f of Mexico is 1(),(NK) feel. Puring the day, we hnd seen no Hign of animal life *, but among iho rocks hero, we heard what was sup- posed to be ihe bleat of a young goal, which W) searched for with hungry activity, and found lo proceed from a sniall animal of n gray color, wiih short cars and no mil ; probably the Hiberian squirrel. We m\w a considerable numbitr of (hoin, and with ilie exi't-ptiou of a small bird like a sparrow, it is the only iiiliabiiaiit of this elevated part of the mountains. On our return, \Tc saw, Itfldw (his Inke, large Hocks of the inouniain goat. We had nothing to cut to night. l.aJt>iuiecS(!, with «i(>velal oiIicih, look their guns, and sallied out in st'iHclMifa •rout; Ixit roluriied unPUcccKsfnl. At sunset, the barometer MiiHul u( 2l).5'i:^ — the aliacliet! ihiwmomctcr 5(l'\ Here we had the misfor- lime to bi«>ak our liicrmoincUT, liitving now only that attached to the barom- eter. I wati taken ill c*liorily after we had encamped, and continued so until lute in the nii;ht, willi violent lieadache (uul vomiting. Tliis was proliahly CHUdcd l>y thu excessive I'aiigue 1 had itiulei<>-one, nnd want of i'ood, and perhaps aUo in some measuie by the rarity of ihe air. 'The nii^hl. was cold, ud a violent gale from the north hail 8prmi<^ up at smiHct, wliich entirely blew away the heat of iho lires. The citld, aiul our granite bed.^, had not been favorable lo slee[), and we were glad to see the face of the sun in the morning. Noi being delayed by any preparation for breakfast, we set out immediately. On every side as we advanced was heard the roar of wuterii, and of a tor- rent, which we followed up a short disiaiice, miiil it expanded into a lake about one mile in length. On the noitliern side of the lake was a bank of ice, or rather of snow, covered with a crust of ice. Carson had been our guide into the mountains, and agreeably lo his advice, we left this little val- ley, and took to the ridges again ; which we found extremely bioken, and where we were again involved among precipices. Hero were ice fields, among which we were ail dispersed, seeking each tin? best path to ascend the peak. Mr. Preuss atienipied to walk along iho upper edge of one of these fields, which sloped away at an angle of about iwenly degrees, but his feet slipped from under him, and he went plunging down the plane. A few hundred feet below, at the bottom, were some fragmenis of .sharp rock, on which he ianJcd ; ami ihougii he turned a couple of somerse's, fortunately receivef I'uod, and ;lit wiw iHild, licU (MJliiely jed-", Imd not lu Btiii in llio i\ , we sol out nnd of i\ toi- d into a lake vas a bank of u\d been our tills little val- biokun, and re ice fields, aili to ascend go of one of grcea, but his ane. A few laip rock, on s, fortunately I lenient Lnni- ! rocks a short luul sriildiiiess, rself unable to 1 a gap two or possible, and eed further in d, at 19.401— e over to him, ridge, whence cted, towering ntime, finding r my strength k to the place We were now better ncquninted with (he topogrnpliy of the country, nnd I directed him to bring bnck with him, if it were in any way nowible, four or five mules, with provisions nnd binnkels. With me were Maxwell nnd Ayot -, nnd nfier we Imd remained nearly an hour on the rock, it became so unpleasontly cold, though the day was bright, that we set out on our return lo the camp, nt which we nil arrived safely, straggling in one nfier the other. 1 continued ill during the afternoon, but became better towards sundown, when my recovery was completed by the appearance of Onsil and four men, all mounted. The men who hod gone with him hnd been too much fatigued to return, nnd were relievod by those in chnrge of the horses; but in his powers of endurance Hnsil resembled more a mountain goat than n innn. They brought binnkels nnd provisions, and we enjoyed well nur dried meat nnd n cup of good coffee. We rolled ourselves up in our blankets, and with our foet turneil to n blazing fire, silept soundly until morning. Auffust 15. — It had been supposed thnt we had finished with the moun- tcin.s ; and the evening before, it had been arrnngi^d that Carson should set out nt daylight, and return to breakfast nt the Camp of the Mules, taking with him nil but fniir or five men, who were to stay with me ond bring bnck the mules end instruments. Accordingly, nt the break of dny they set out. With Mr. Preuss nnd myself remained Rnsil Iiajeunesse, Clement Lninbcrt, Janisse, and Descoteaux. When we had secured strength for the day by n hearty brenkfast, we covered what remained, which Was enough for one meal, with rocks, in order thnt it might be safe from nny mnranding bird ; nnd, saddling our mules, turned our faces once more towards the peaks. This time we determined to proceed quietly and cnutiously, delib- erately resolved to nccomplish our object if it were withm the compass of human means. We were of opinion thnt n long defile which lay to the left of yesterday's route would lend us to the foot of the mnin pcnk. Our mules had been refreshed by the fine grass in the little ravine at the island camp, nnd wo intended to ride up the defile ns far as possible, in or- der to husband our strength for the ninm nscent. Though this was a fine passage, still it was a defile of the most rugged mountains known, and w^e imd many a rotigh and steep slippery place to cross before reaching the end. In this place the sun rarely shone, snow lay along the border of the small stream which flowed through it, and occasional icy passages made the footing ot the mules very insecure, and the rocks and ground were moist with the trickling waters in this spring of mighty rivers. We soon had the satisfaction to find ourselves riding along the huge wall which forms the central summits of the chain. There at last it rose by our sides, a nearly perpendicular wall of granite, terminating 2,000 to 3,000 feet above our heads in a serrated line of broken, jagged cones. We rode on until we c nie almost immediately below the main peak, which I denominated the St. w Peak, as it exhibited more snow to the eye than any of the neigh- boring summits. Here were three small lakes of a green color, each of perhaps a thousand yards in diameter, and appav-ently very deep. These lay in a kind of chasm ; and, according to the barometer, we had attained but a few hundred feet above the Island lake. The barometer here stood at 20.450, attached thermometer 70°. We managi^d to get our mules up to a little bench nbout a htmdred feet above the lakes, where there was a patch of good grass, nnd turned them loose io graze. During our rough ride to this place they had exhibited a [wonderful surefootedness. Parts of the defile were filled with angular, 9 [243] flhnrp fragments of rdck, three oi four (pud eif^li >r (en feet cube ; und amon? these they had worked tlieir way, leapiotr from »tte narrow point to another, rarely making a fulso step, and giving \\t< no ocfutmon to disniouni. Having divested ourselves of every unnocessory wncumbrnnco, we conmienced the ascent. This time, Uke experienced travellers, wo did not press ourselves, but climbed leisurely, sitting down so soon us we found breath beginning to fail. At intervals we reached places where a number of springs gushed from the rocks, and about 1,800 feet above the lakes came to the snow Imo. From this point our progress was uninterrupted climbing. Hitherto I had worn a pair of thick moccasins, with soles o( pnrflkche ; but here I put on a light thin pair, which I hod brought for the purpose, ns now the use ol our toes became necessary to a further advance. 1 availed myself of a sort of comb of the mouiuaiti, which stood against the wall like a buttress, and which the wind and the solar radiation, joined to the steepneas of the smooth rock, had kept almost entirely free from snow. Up this I made my way rapidly. Our cautious meihud of advancing in the outset had spared my strength ; and, with the exception of a slig'..:. disposition to headache, 1 felt no remains of yesterday's illness. In a few minutes we reached a point where the buttress was overhanging, and tliere was no other woy of sur- mounting the ditiiculty than by pa.ssing around one side of it, which wn!> the face of a vertical precipice of several hundred feel. Putting hands and feet in the crevices between the blocks, I succeeded in getting over it, and when I reached the top, found my companions in a small valley below. Descending to them, we continued climbing, and iiij a short time reached the crest. I sprang upon the summit, and another step would have precipitated me into an immense snow field five hundred feet below. To the edge of this field was a sheer icy precipice ; and then, with a gradual fall, the field sloped off for about a mile, until it struck the foot of another lower ridge. I stood on a narrow crest, about three feet in width, with an inclination of about 20° N. 51° E. As soon as 1 hud grati fied the first feelings of curiosity 1 descended, and each man ascended in his turn, for I would only allow one at a time to mount the unstable and precarious slab, which it seemed a breath would hurl into the abyss below. We mounted the barometer in the snow of the summit, and fixing « ramrod in u crevice, unfurled the national flag to wave in the breeze where never flaar waved before. IDuring our mornin<''s ascent we had met no sij^n of animal life except the small sparrow-like bird already mentioned. A stillness the most profound and a terrible solitude forced themselves cou stantly on the mind as the great features of the place. Here on the sum- mit, where the stillness was absolute, tinbroken by any sound, and the soli tilde complete, we thought ourselves beyond the region of animated life . but while we were sitting on the rock a solitary bee (bromus, the humbk bee) came winging his flight from the eastern valley, and lit on the knee of one of the men. Ii was a strange place, the icy rock and the highest peak of the Rockv 'Mountains, for a lover of warm sunshine and fiowers, and we pleased our reives with the idea that he was the fir^t of his 8{iecre3 to ciriaa the mountain barrier, a solitary pioneer to fortell the advance of civilization. I believej thnta moment's thougtu would have made us let him contihue bis way un harmed, but we carried out the law of this cottnlry, where all animated na- ture seems at war ; and seizing him immediately, put him in at least a fii place, in the leaves of a large book among the flowers we bad collected oai [243] 5 ; and anions int to another, ouni. Having iimienced the ess ourselves, [Uh l)egionin|r pringa gushed the snow lino. hitherto 1 had here 1 put on low the use ol [lyself of a sort 1 buttress, and ! of the smooth nude my wtiv I ad spared my leadache, I felt uaclied a point Rt way of sur- it, which was. ks, I succeeded ompanions in a imbing, and in it, and another | d five hundred pice ; and then. til it struck the >ut three feet in| as 1 had grati- lan ascended in e unstable aiid| into the ah unit, and fixiiigl ! in the breezt: ent we had inet sady mentioned, themselves ecu ire on the sura| id, and the soli animated life nus, the humbk\ it on the knw k of the RockyI we pleased our- ss the mountainl It ion. I believe] lue his way un II animated na- iti at least a fii tad collected oal «nr way. The bnromc'er stood at 18,293. Tli* attached thermometer at 44'^, givin-; for the elevation of this siiiumit 13,670 feet above the Gulf of Mexico, which may be called the highest flight of the bee. It is certainly the highest known flight of that, insect. From the description given by Mackenzie of ihe mountains where he crotwed them, with that of a F'rencli otTicer still further to the north, and (Jolonel Long's measurements to the south, Joined to the opinion of the oldest traders of the country, it is pre- sumed that this is the highest peak of the Rocky Mountains. The day was sunnv and bright, but a slight shining irisl hung over the lower plains, which interfered with our view of the surrounding country. On one side we overlooked innumerable lakes and streams, the spring of the Colorado of the (iulf of California; and on the other was the Wind River valley, where were the heads of the Yellowstone branch of the Missouri ; far to the north we jus*! could discover the snowy heads of the Wow Tetons, where were the sources of the Missouri and Columbia rivers; and at the southern ex- tremity of the ridge the peaks were plainly visible among which were some of the springs of the Nebraska or Platte river. Around us ihe whole scene had one main striking feature, which was that of terrible convulsion. Pa- rallel to its length, the ridge was split into chasms and fissures; between which rose the tliin lofiy walls, terminated with slender minarets and columns, which is correctly represented in the view from the camp on Island lake. Ac* cording to the barometer, the iinle crest of the wall on which we stood was three tliousand Ave hundred and seventy feet above thai place, and two thousand •even hundred and eighty above the little lakes at the bottom, immediately at our feet. Our camp at the Two Hills (an astronomical station) bore south 3° east., which, with a bearing afterward obtained from a fixed position, en- abled us to locate the peak. The bearing of the IVois Tetons was north 60° west, and the direction of the central ridge of the Wind River mountains south 39° east. The summit rock was gneiss, succeeded by syenitic gneiss. Syenite and feldspar succeeded in oin descent to the snow line, where we found a feldspathic granite. I had remarked that the noise produced by the explosion of our pistols had the usual degree of loudness, but was not in the lenst prolon:Ted, expiring almost instantaneously. Having now made what observations our means aflforded, we proceeded to descend. We had ac- complished an object of laudable ambition, and beyond the strict order of our instructions. We had climbed the loftiest peak of the Rocky Mountains, and looked down upon the snow a thousand feel below, and standing where never human foot had stood before, felt the exultation of tlist explorers. It was abovit 2 o'clock when we left the summit, and when we reached the bottom the sun had already sunk behind the wall, and the day was draw- ing to a close. It would have been pleasant to have lingered here and on the summit longer, but we hurried away as rapidly as the ground would permit, for it was an object to regain our party as soon as jx>ssible, not i:nowin^ what accident the next hour might bring forth. We reached our depoeii of provisions at nightfall. Here was not the inn wliich awaits the tired traveller on his return from Mont Blanc, or the orange groves of South America, with their refreshing juices and soft fragrant «ir; hut we found out liule cache of dried meat and coffee undisturbed. Though the moon was btight, the road was full of precipices, and the fatigue of the day had been great. We therefore abandoned the idea of rejoining our Ciiends, und lay down on the rock, and, in spite of the cold, slept soundly. AuguM 16.— We left our encarapiiaeat with the daylight. We saw on I 248 ] 68 f^iCj our way lari^e flocks of the mountain goat looking down on us from th« clitfti. At the crack of a ride they would bound off among the rocks, and in a few minutes mnlce their appearance on some lofty peak, some hundred or a thousand feet above. It is needless to attempt any further description of the country; the portion over which we truvellod this morning was rough as imaginatian could picture it, and to us seemed equally beautiful. A concourse of lakes and runhing waters, mountains of rocks naked and destitute of vegetable earth, dells and ravines of tiie most exquisite beauty, all kept green and fresh by the great moisture in the air, and sown with brilliant flowers, and every where thrown around all the glory of most magni- ficent scenes ; the^e constitute the features of the place, and impress them* selves vividly on the mind of the traveller. It wns nut until 11 o'clock that we reached the place where our animals had been left, when we first attempt- ed the mountains on foot. Near oiie of the still burning fires we found a piece of meat, which our friends had thrown away, and which furnished us a mouthful — a very scanty breakfast. We continued directly on, and reached our camp on ihe mountain lake at dusk. We found all well. Nothing had occurred to interrupt the quiet since our departure, and the line grass and good cool water had done much to re establish our animals. All heard with great delight the order to turn our faces homeward ; and toward sundown of the 17th, we encamped again at the Two Buttes. In the course of this afternoon's march, the barometer was broken past remedy. I regretted it, as 1 was desirous to compare it again with Dr. Engel- man's barometers at St. Louis, to which mine were referred ; but it had done its part well, and my objects were mainly fulfilled. August 19. — We left our camp on Little Sandy river about 7 in the I morning, and traversed the same sandy undulating country. The air was filled with the turpentine scent of the various ariemisias, which are now in bloom, and nimierous as they are, give much gaiety to the landscape of the plains. At 10 o'clock, we stood exactly on the divide in the pass, [ where the wagon road crosses, and descending immediately upon the Sweet Water, halted to take a meridian observation of the sun. The latitude was | 42° 24' 3^ ". In the course of the afternoon we saw buffalo again, and at our evening I halt on ihe Sweet Water, the roasted ribs again made their appearance around the fires, and with them, good humor and laughter, and song were restored to the camp. Our coffee had been expended, but we now made a | kind of tea fiom the roots of the wild cherry tree. August 23. — Yesterday evening we reached our encampment at Rock I Independence, where I took some astronomical observations. Here, not | unmindful of the custom of early travellers and explorers in our country, I engraved on this rock of the Far West a symbol of the Christian faith. Among the thickly inscribed names, I made on the hard granite the im- pression of a large cross, which I covered with a black preparation of India I rubber, well calculated to resist the influence of wind and rain. It stands amidst the names of many who have long since found their way to the | grave, and for whom the huge rock is a giant grave stone. One George Weymouth was sent out to Maine by the Earl of South* I ampton. Lord Arundel, and others ; and in the narrative of their discoveries, he says : " The next day, we ascended in our pinnace, that part of tho river which lies more to the westward, carrying with us a cross — a thing aiever omitted by any Christian traveller — which we erected at the ultimate 69 [248] end of our route." This was in the year 1605, and in 1842, 1 obeyed the feelinff of early travellers, and left tlie impression of the cross deeply en- graved on the vast rock one thousand miles beyond the Mississippi, to which discoverers have given (he national name of Rock Independence. In obedience to my instructions to survey the river Platte, if possible, I had determined to make nn attempt at this place. The India rubber boat was tilled with air, placed in the water, and loaded with what was neccs< sary for our operations ; and I embarked with Mr. Preuss and a party of men. When wo had dragged our boat for a mile or two over the sands, I abandoned the impossible undertaking, and waited for the arrival of the porty, when we packed up our boat and equipage, and at 9 o'clock were again moving along on our lond journey. We continued along the valley on the right bank of the Hwcet Woter, where the formation, as alreody de- scribed, consists of a grayish micaceous sandstone, and tine-grained con- glomerate, and marl. We passed over a ridge which borders or constitutes the river hills of the Plutte, consisting of huge blocks sixty or eighty feet cube of decomposing granite. The cement which united them was proba- bly of easier decomposition, and has disappeared and left them isolate, and separated by small spaces. Numerous horns of the mountain goat were lying among the rocks, and in the ravines were cedars whose trunks were of extraordinary size. From this ridge we descended to a small open plain nt the mouth of the Sweet Water, which rushed with a rapid current into the Platte, here llowing along in a broad, tranquil, and opparently deep stream, which seemed, from its turbid appearance to be considerably swollen. I obtained here some astronomical observations, and the afternoon was spent in getting our boat ready for navigation the next day. August 24. — We started before sunrise, intending to breakfast at Goat island. I had directed the land party, in charge of Bernier, to proceed to this ploce, where they were to remain, should they find no note to apprise them of our having passed. In the event of receiving this information, they were to continue their route, passing by certain places which had b6en designated. Mr. Preuss accompanied me, and with us were five of my best men, viz., 0. Lambert, Basil Lajeunesse, Honore Ayot, Benoist, and Descoteaux. Here appeared no scarcity of water, and we took on board, with various instruments and baggage, provisions for ten or twelve days. We paddled down the river rapiSly, for our little craft was light as a duck on the water, and the sun had been some time risen, when we heard before us a hollow roar, which we supposed to be that of a fall of which we had heard a vague rumor, but whose exact locality no one had been able to describe to us. We were approaching a ridge, through which the river passes by a place called "caik)n" (pronounced kanyon), a Spanish word, signifying a piece of artillery, the barrel of a gun, or any kind of tube; and which, in this country, has been adopted to describe the passage of a river between perpendicular rocks of great height, which frequently approach each other so closely overhead as to form a kind of tunnel over the stream, which foams along below, half-choked up by fallen fragments. Between the mouth of the Sweet Water and Goat island, there is probably a fall of three hundred feet, aad (hat was principally made in the canons before us; as without them, the writer was comparatively smooth. As we neared the ridge, the river made a sudden turn, and swept squarely down against one of the walls of the canon with a great velocity and so steep a descent, that it had to the eye the appearance of an inclined plane. [248] 70 f '. It When we Uunched into this, the men jumped overboard, to check the Telocity of the bont, but were rooii in water up to their necks, and our boat ran on ; but we succeeded in bringing her to n small point of rocks on the right, at the mouth of the cafiinn. Here was a kind of elevated sand beach, not many yards square, backed by the rocks, ond around the point the river swept at a right angle. Trunks of trees deposited on jutting points twenty or thirty feet above, and other marks, showed that the water here frequently rose to a considerable height. The ridge was of the same de> composing granite already mentioned, and the water hod worked the sur* fnc, n many places, into a wavy surface of ridges and holes. We ascend* ed the rocks to reconnoitre the ground, and from the summit the passage appeared o be a continued cataract foaming over many obstructions, and broken by a number of small falls. We saw nowhere a fall answering to that which had been described to us as having twenty or twenty five teet, but still concluded this to be the place in qucation ; as in the season of Hoods, the rush of the river against the wall would produce a great rise, and the waters reflected squurely off, would descend through the passage in a sheet o( fuam, having every oppearance of a large fall. Ei^tccn years previous to this time, as I have subsequently learned from himself, Mr. Fitzpatrick, somewhere above on this river, had embarked with a val- uable cargo of beaver. Unacquainted with the stream, which he believed would conduct him safely to the Missouri, he came unexpectedly into this cafion, where he was wrecked, with the total loss of his furs. It would have been a work of great time and labor to pack our baggage across the ridge, and I determined to run the canon. We all again embarked, and at first attempted to check the way of the boat; but the water swept through with so nmch violence that we narrowly escaped being swamped, and were obliged to let her go in the full force of the current, and trust to the skill of the boatmen. The dangerous places in this cafion were where huge rocks had fallen from fibove, and hemmed in the already narrow pass of the river to nti open space of three or four and five feet. The.«c obstructions raised the water considerably above, which was sometimes precipitated over in a fall ; and at other places, where this dam was too high, rushed through the contracterl opening with tremendous violence. Had our boat been made of wood, in passins; 'ho narrows she would have been staved; but her elasticity preserved her unhurt from every shock, and she seemed fairly to leap over the falls. In this way we passed three cataracts in succession, where, perhaps, a hundred feet rf <«mo(ih water intervened ; and ilnally, with ii shout of pleas- ure at our success, issued from our tunnel into the open day beyond. We were so deligh ed widi the perionuance of our boat, and so confident in het powers, that we wojild not have hesitated to leap a fall of (en feet with iier. We put to shore for breakfast at some willows on the right hank, immediately below the mouth of th-; cafion ; for it was now eight o'clock, and W'e had been working since daylight, and were all wet, fati [)rked the tur* We ascend' it the paasage itructions, and answering to enty five tiect, the scnson oil e a great rise, h the passage ill. Eif^hteen from himself, ed with a val- :h he believed tedly into this us. It would age across the barked, and at swept through iped, uad were [ to the skill of ere huge rocks w puss of the e obstructions :s precipitated high, rushed I Had our boat been staved ; nd slie seemed I ere, peihnps, a slioul of plens- beyond. We ontideni in het feet willi iier. k, ininiediaieiyj :, and w-e had ungry. While The view was 1 could see; v was another the deconipos- glilteriiig sand. 3 reached the I, we ascended the ridge to reconnoitre. Portage was out of the question. So far as wa could see, the jagged rocks pointed out the course of the eahon, on a wiad- ing lin#i of seven or eight miles. It was simply a narrow, dark chasm in the rock; and here the perpendicular faces were much higher than in the previous pasa, being at this end two to three hundred, and further down, as wo afterward ascertained, live hundred feet in vertical height. Our previous success had made us bold, and we determined again to run the caAon. Everything was secured as firmly as possible; and, having divested our* selves of the greater part of our clothing, we pushed into the stream. To save our chronometer from accident, Mr. Preuss took it, and attempted to proceed along the shore on the masses of rock, which in places were piled up on either side ; but, after he had walked about five minutes, every tning like shore disappeared, ond the vertical wall came squarely down into the wq> tr. He, therefore, wailed imtil we came up. An ugly pass lay before us. We had made fast to the stern of the lioat a strong rope about fifty feet long; uod three of the men clambered along among the rocks, and with this rope !(.'( her down slowly ihrough the pass. In several places high rocks lay scut- lered about in the channel ; and in the narrows it required all our strength and skill to avoid staving the boat on the sharp points. In one of ihede, the boat proved n liulo too broad, and .stuck fnal (o, an instant, while the water f^ew over us ; fortunately it waa but for an instant, as our united strength foiced her immediately through. The water swept overboard only a sextant and a pair of naddle bags. I caught the sextant as it passed by me ; but the saddlebags became the prey of the whirlpools. We reached the place where Mr. Preuss was standing, took him on board, and, with the aid of the boat, put the men with the rope on the succeeding pile of rocks. We found this passage much worse than the previous one, and our position was rather a bad one. To go back was impossible ; before us the cataract was a sheet of team ; and, shut up in the chasm by the rocks, which in souie places seemed .\lmo8t to meet overhead, the roar of the water was deafening. We pushed off again ; but, after making a little distance, the force of the current became 100 great for the n)eii on shore, and two of them lei go the rope, Lajeunesse, ihe third man, bung on, and was jerked headforemost into the river from a rock about twelve feet high ; and down the boat shot like an arrow, Basil ;bllowing us in the rapid current, and exerting all his strength to keep in mid channel — his head only seen occasionally like a black spot in the white foam. How far we went I do not exactly know ; but we succeeded in turn- ing the boat into an eddy below. " 'Cre Dieu," said Basil Lejeunesse, as he arrived immediately after us, " Je crois bien que j'ai nnge un demi mile.'* He had owed his life to his skill as a swimmer; and I determined to take him and the two others on board, and trust to skill and fortune to reach the other end in safety. We placed ourselves on our knees, with the short pad- dies in our hands, the most skilful boatman being ai the bow ; and again we ommenced our rapid descent. We cleared rock after rock, and shot past fall after fall, our liule boat seeming to play with the cataract. We became flushed with success and familiar with the danger ; and, yielding to the ex- itenient of the occasion, broke forth together into a Canadian boat song. Singing, or rather shouting, we dashed along ; and were, I believe, in the midst of the chorus, when the boat struck a concealed rock immediately at the foot of a fall, which whirled her over in an instant. Three of my men "onld not swim, and my first feeling was to assist them, and save some of our effects ; but a sharp concussion or two convinced nje that I had not yet [248] 72 suiiicwhnt disheartsned. iir journals and regblers eaved myHelf. A fow slrokr* hrouglil me inlo an eddy, and 1 landed on a pile of rucka on (he left side, liuoking oruund, 1 saw thai Mr. Preuie had (gained (he shore un the hanie side, about twenty yards buluw ; and a little cliinhint; and swinunin)( Hoon brouglii him lo my side. On the opposite side, oguin^t the wall, lay the boat bottom up; and Lunibert was in the act of saving Descotcaux, whom he had grasped by ilic hair, and who could not swim : " Lache pas," said he, os I atierward learned, '* lacho pas, chere frere." " Grains pus," was the reply, " Jo m'cn vuis inourir avant quo do te l&cher.'* Such was the reply of couroge and generosity in this danger. For a hun- dred yards below, the current was coveted with llouting books and boxes, balce of blankets, and scattered articles of clothing ; and so strong and boil* ing was the stream, that even our heavy instruments, which were all in cases, kept on tlio surface, and the sextant, circle, and the long black box of the teles- rope, were in view at once. For a moment, I fell All our books ; almosl every record of the journey uf astronomical and barometrical observations — had been lost in a moment. l)ul it was no lime to indulge in regrets ; and I immediately set about en- deavoring to save something from the wreck. Making ourselves understood OS well as possible by Higns, for nothing could bo heuid in the roar of waters, we commenced our operations. Of every thing on board, the only article that had been saved was my double-barrelled gun, which Dcscoteaux had caught, and clung to with drowning tenacity. The men continued down the river on the left bank. Mr. I'reuss and myself descended on the side we were oh ; and Lajcunosse, with a paddle in his hand, jumped on the boat nlone, ond continued down the cahon. Slui was now light, and cleared every bad place with much less ditliculty. In u short time, he was joined by Lambert; and the search was continued for about a mile and a half, which was as far as the boat could proceed in the pass. Here the walls were about five himdred feet high, and the fragments of rocks from above had clinked the river into a hollow pass, but one or two feet above the surface. Through this and the interstices of the rock, the water found its way. Favored beyond our expectations, ail of our registers had been recovered, with the exception of one of my journals, which con- tained the notes and incidents of travel, and topographical descriptions, a number of scattered astronomical observations, principally meridian alti- tudes of the sun, and our barometrical register west of Laramie. For- tunately, our other journals contained duplicates of the most important barometical observations which had been taken in (he mountains. These, with a few scattered notes, were all that had been preserved of our meteorological observations. Ii: addition to these we saved the circle, and these, with a few blankets, constituted every tiling that had been rescued from the waters. The day was running rapidly away, and it was necessary to roach Goat island, whither the party had preceded us before night. In this uncertain country, the traveller is so inuch in the power of chance, that we became somewhat uneasy in regard to them. Should anything have occurred, in the brief interval of our separation, to prevent our rejoining ihem, our situa- tion would be rather a desperate one. "We had not a norsel of provisions, our arms and ammunition were gone ; and we were entirely at the mercy of any straggling party of savages, and not a little in danger of starvation. We therefore set out at once in two parties. Mr. Preuss and myself on the left, and the men on the opposite side of the river. Climbing out of the our course, 7S [2481 <«t>on, wo found uiirtolviM in a very lirokcn country, where wo wore not yet nhle to rorognizo any locality. In the coium oI our dencrnt tliroiigh i\w cofint), tho rock, which at llu) upfwr ond wum of the docomjNNiinK (ttoh« camp, whtre wt fmmd every thing mdistiirbed. W« diiiniff^riA our (kpoiit, arranf^ed our cans whicn hiul bv«n loft hero on th« way out, and travdUiiiir a i«w mtlei in the ul'li; noon, oncamptd for the night at the (brd of the Plaltit. Aut(u»l 27. — At nndclay we halted at the ptarn wlure wu had taken din* ner on the 27th of July. The couiiiry, which w! •. wc passud up lookai at if the hard winter froats had pnsied over it, had now nMnnrni'd a new face, m much of Turnal froiihness imd liecn ffiven to it hy x\w lato rain*. The I'Inite wna exctM-diuKly low, a iiicro lino of water amnni^ tl.i! sand barn. Wfl reached liarainui fort on the Inst day of August, after an .vhsenco of forty-two dayM, and hud the picaiiure to And our friends 'ill well. The fortiedi day had houn fixed for our roiiirn, nnd tlio miick oyoM of the Iiiiltnnf, who wore on thf> lookout for ua, di8cov(p«nted diNchnrgcii of ita «iii£fle pit >. which we returned with ncattered vollies of oui small ttrmt, ru I telt ilu, joy of a home reception in gutting; back to tlii^ remote stuiiuti, which ei^emed so far off as wo went out. On liie morniiiy[ of the 3d of SaptemlHT wn bnde adieu to oiir kind u iends at the fort, and coiitmucd our homeward journey down ih< Plat •, which waa glorious with the autumnal iiplcndor of iniiumumblo dowoi < in full and brilliant bloom. On the warm sanda, amonjcr the Mian(/ii, one r>f ihe characteristic plaut«, we saw great niimbera of ratth^ainakoa, of which live or bix were killed in the morning's ride. We occupied our.^<'lves in im» proviuf^ our previous survey of the river ; and, ns the weather was fine, as- tronomical obacrvntions were generally tnado at night and nt noon. Wc halted for a short time on the afternoon of the 5th with a village of Sioux Indians, some of whose chiefs wc had mot at Laramto. The water in 'ho I'latie was cxiretiiely low; in many places the largo expanae of HandH, with some occasional i^tiinted trees on the banks, gave it dio air of tho soacoast, the Ixfd of the river being merely a succession of sandbars, among ivliicli tho channel was divided into rivulets a few inclicN deep. We crossed and rocrnssed with our carts repeatedly and at our pleasure, and whenever an obstruction barred our way, in the shape of precipitous bluffs Uiat came down upon the river, wo turned directly into it, ni i made our way along the sandy bed, with no other inconvenience than ilio fre- quent quicksands, which greatly fatigued our animals, insintorring on the way the cache which had been made by our party when they ascendtid iIk river, we rea'zhed without accident, on the evening of the I2th of Sep- tember, our old encampment of the 2d of July, at tho junction of the forks. Our cache of the barrel of pork was found undisturbed, and proved ■ '^^ sonable addition to our stock of provisons. At this place I had deteruuntd to make another attempt to descend the Platte by water, and accordingly spent two days in the construction of a bull boat. Men were sent out on the evening of our arrival, the necessary number of bulls killed, and their skins brought to the camp. Four of the best of them were strongly sewed together with bnft'ulo sinew, and stretched over a basket frame of willow. The seams were then covered with ashes and tallow, and tho boat left ex- posed to the sun for the greater pait of one day, which was sufficient to dry and contract the skin, and make the wholo work solid and strong. It had a rounded bow, was eight feet long and five broad, and drew with four men about four inches water. On the morning of the loth we embarked in our hide boat, Mr. Pieuss and myself, with two men. We dragged her over the sands cnt.rely a ihe India ever mor braska, oi little IvUi tweniy-oi Platte, an where we On tlio with an a «mall omi floods of with an e tor A milil On the lii^ht ban I They wer come sup] The ni the place broad, wit Plattr, wh formation, the water the opjxisi of tho rive left bank < During th the bad \\ latitude, a mouth of I Five or to Hcllevu of the Ain^ lers in com the afternr by Mr. Si which gav progress, iruble und confluence our reckon from Fort From tl numerous mg, as we the except rally witlu with a prol tile reniiiin Hoods. T 7a [248 J the sAiida f r three or fnar milci, and then !< *'x htr on a har, and abandontd' «nt.rely all further Micmpt)* to n»vi^at« ihii nver. The namea iriv«!n by the liidians atr olwnyN rciiiarknhly appropriate, and crrtainly iiune waa (rfer inori) so ihnn that which ihey have given to ihii stream, '* thp Ne- braakn, or Shallow river." Walking iifodily (he nuMiindor of (he day, » little In |r»r« dark wo ovrfook our |«onlo nl their 'jvcrmig ramp, almiii tweruyonn milcN below tlio junction, 'rho next morning wr i^aaed ih« IMatte, and continued our wnv down the river bottom on lliu left bank^ where we Uu m] nn excellent, pinuily beaten roiuJ. On tfiH 18ti we reoched (irond i«lond, whi«:h ia fifty-two miU's long» with nn .-ivcra, fiondih uf on* mile and three quartorN. It liaN on it aom* «niall eminetK- and is suthciently elevated to ho Hecuru from the annual tloodi) of the (iver. As hns \mn already rf*inarked, it is woll timbered, with ail fxcullent soil, and i t'omiiK ndn ilaeM lu notice n;:i tht* best poiiii lor a military position on thi> Low r I'liitto. On the 22d we arrived ni (he village of ilifl (trand Pounee*, on lh« lij^lil bonk of iho rivnr, about ifiirty miles above um mouth of the liOiip fork. They were gathering in tlieir corn, niid we oblnined from them a \fty wel- come supply of vegeiablfj. The morning of the 24ih vvn en iird (ho Iioup fork of the IMatte. At ibe place where we forded it, ihiH ireoni was (our hundred and thirty yor«l« broad, with ;. swift current of clear water, in tliis reaped dilTeriug from (he Plattr, whicli liao a yellow muddx i-oloi, derivH from (be limestone and marl formaiion, o( which we have previonsly apokuri. The ford wns diffcult, as the water \v;is -^o deep dial it ramc into (he body of the carts, and we reached the op|xi-i(e bunk after repeated atteiiipis, ascending ond decending the bed of the river in order to avail ourselves of the bar^. We encamped on the. left bank of the fork, in the point of land at its junc(ion wi(h (he Platte. During the two days that we remained here for astronomical obHerva(ions^ the bad woatlier pcr(ni((ed us lo ob(aiii but one good observation for the Intiludc, a meredian ahidide of tlin sun, which give for the latitude of the mouth of the Loup fork, 4»o 22' 1 1 Five i>r six days previously i had .^ent forward ' '. Lambert, with two men, to Uellevue, Willi directions to ask from Mr. 1*. Sarpy, (ho gentle?nan in charge of ihe Amcriciui Company's establisliinent at (hat place, tlie aid of his carpen- ters in constructing a boai, in which I projwscd to descend the Missouri. Oti tlie afternoon of the 27ili we met one of (he men, who had been despatched by Mr. Sarpy wiih a welcome supply of provisions and a very kind no(e, which gave us (he very gratifying intelligence that our boat was in rapitl progress. On (he evening of the .30th we encamped iti an almost impene- trable undergiowUi on the left bank of the Platte, in the ))oint of land at iN confluence v ith the Missouri, three hundred and fifteen miles, according to our reckoning, from the junction of the forks, and five hundred and twenty from Fort Laramie. From the junction we had found the bed of the PIa(te occupied witb numerous islands, mony of them very large, and all well timbered ; posses?- iiig, as well as (he bottom lands of the river, a very excellent soil. With the exception of some scattered groves on the bank?-', the bottoms are gene- rally without timber. A portion of these consist of low grounds, covered with a profusion of tine grasses, and are probably inundated in Che spring ; the remaining part is high river piiiiiie, entirely beyond the influence of thi floods. The breadth of the river is usually three (juarteis of a mile, except ^^ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) *% 1.0 [^li& lii "* m 12.2 £ us no Fhobgraphic Sdmces CorpOTalion 23 WBT MAM STMIT WIBSTIt,N.Y. 14SM (716)872-4S03 '^ c^ [248] 76 'where it is enlorged by islandc. That portion of its course which is occupied by Gnuid island, has an average brr tdth, from shore to shore, of two and a half miles. The breadth of the valley, with the various accidents of ffround^ — springs, timber, and whatever I have thought interesting to travellers and •ettlem— you will find indicated on the larger map which accompanies this report. October 1. — I rose this morning long before daylight, and heard with a feelini; of pleasure the tinkling of cow-bells at the settlements on the op- posite side of the Missouri., Early in the dav we reached Mr. Sarpy's resi- dence; and, in the security and comfort of his hospitable mansion, felt the pleasure of being again within the pale of civilization. We found our boat on the stocks ; a few days sufficed to complete her ; and, in the afternoon of the 4th, we embarked on the Missouri. All our equipage, horses, carts, and the materiel of the camp, had been sold at public auction at Bellevue. The strength of my party enabled me to man the boat with ten oars, relieved ev- ery hour ; and we descended rapidly. Early on the morning of the lOth, we halted to make some astronomical observations at the mouth of the Kan> zas, exactly four months since we had left the trading-poet of Mr. Cyprian Chouteau, on the same river, ten miles above. On our descent to this place, we had employed ourselves in surveying and sketching the Missouri, making astronomical observations regularly at night and at midday, whenever the weather permitted. These operations on the river were continued until our arrival at the city of St. Louis, Missouri, on the 17th ; and will be found, imbodied with other results, on the map and in the appendices which accom- pany this report. At St. Louis, the sale of our remaining eflfects was made ; and, leaving that city by steamboat on the 18th, 1 had the honor to report to you at the city of Washington en the 29th of October. Very respectfully, sir, your obedient servant, J. C. FREMONT, 2d Lieut. Corps of Topographical Engineers, ^rr nd heard with lents on the op- ir. Sarpy'9 reii- ftnsion, felt the found our boat he afternoon of arses, carts, and Sellevue. The irs, relieved ev- ig of the lOth, iith of the Kauo of Mr. Cyprian nt to this place, lissouri, making , whenever the inued until our I will be found» IS which accom- sets was made ; mor to report to CATALOGUE OF PLANTS COLLECTED BY LIEUT. FREMONT, • ■ < ..■ ' ! : - IM Hit EXPEDITION TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. BY JOHN TORREY. r >f';f .': h ■ ,0' PREFACE. The collection of plante lubmilted to me for examination, though mudc under unfavorable «iroumitancn, li a Tory Intereeling contribution to North American Rotanjr. From the mouth of the Kaiizai river to the •' Red Buttet" on the North fork of the Platte, the tranttportation was effected in carta ; but from that place to and from the mountains, the explorations wen made on horseback, and by auch rapid movemenlt, (which were nereswry, in order to accom- plish the objects of the expedition) that but little opportunity was uflbrded for collecting and drying botanical specimens. Besides, the party was in a snvage and inhospitable country, sometimes annoyed by Indians, and frequently in great distress from want of provisions ; from which circumstances, and the many pressing duties that constantly engaged the attention of the commander, he was not able to make so large a collection as he desired. To give some gen- eral idea of the country explored by Lieut. Fremont, I recapitulate, froin his report, a brief sketch of his route. The expedition left the mouth of the Kanzas on the lOth of June, 1843, and proceeding up that river about one hundred miles, then continued its course generally along the " bottoms" of the Kanzas tributaries, but sometimes passing over the upper prairies. The soil of the river bottoms is always rich, and generally well timbered ; though the whole region is what is called a prairie country. The upper prairies are an immense dcposite of sand and gravel, covered with a giMHl, and, very generally, a rich soil. Along the road, on reaching the little stream called Sandy creek ''a tributary of the Kanzas), the soil became more sandy- The rock-formations of this region are limestone and sartdstonc. The ^nvtrpka caneaetna was th(> characteristic plant ; it being in many places ast abundant as the grass. Crossing over from the waters of the Kanzas, Lieut. F. arrive;! at the Great Platte, two hun- dred and ten miles from its junction with the AlissQuri. The valley of this river, from its mouth to the great forks, is about four miles broad, ahd three hundred and fifteen miles long- It is rich, well-timbered, and covered with luxuriant grasses. The purple Lialris uarioaa, ani neveral Jtittn, wore here conspicuous features of the vegetation. 1 was pleased to recognup among the specimens collected hear ihe fitrks, the fine large-flowered Ascleplas, that I described many years ago in my account of Jataes*s Kocky Mountain Plants, under the name of A. spteiota, and which Mr. Geyer also found in Nicollet's expedition. It seeins to be the plant subsequently Kiescribed and figured by Sir W. Hooker, under the name of .4. Douglarii. On the Lowei- ^latte, and all the way to the Sweet Water, the showy CUomi inUgryfoHa occurred in abon- dance. From the Forks to Laramie river, a distance of hbout two hundred miles, the country may be called a sandy one. The valley of the North fork is without timber; but the graaac* are fine, and the herbaceous plants abundant. On the return of the expeilitiun in September, Lieut. Fremont says the whole country resembled a vait garden ; but the prevailing planta 'were two or three species of HtlimAui (subflower). Between the main forks of the Platte, frori) the junction, aS high up as Laramie's fork, (he formation consisted of ikiarl, a soft earthy litaestohe, and a granite sandstone. At the latter place, that sihgular leguminous plant, the ktntrophyta mofUoM of Niittill was first seen, and then o<^cnrred, at intervkb, to Oie Sweet Water river. Fbllowing'ttp the North fork, Lieut. Fremont arrived at the moatb tif the Sweet "IVater rivfer, 6n^ of tk^ bead watbrs of the Pta'tte. Above Lara'miiB's fork to tkia place, the Mil is generally sandy. The rbeks consist of limastbne, with a variety of sandstones (yelloW, gny, and red argQl'aeebus), with eo'mlpact gypsum or iiab'aster, and fine conglomerates. The ir«ute aloiig the IVorth fork of the Platte aflorded some of the 'best plahts in Hm eoUee- 4ioD. The Sinctw rapifolUi, Nutt., occurred in many places, quite to th« Sweet Water } Lippia [243] 80 !■ (Zafumia) emu{fblia (Torr. in JuBM*t7pl«nts. only known bcfort from Dr. JtmM*i eoIlMtioa;) Ctrcotmrpui p»rv\fhliwi, Null. ; Eriogvnum p«n\folium and c«^««um, Null. ; ShephtrdU mrgtntMr Nult., and Gtranium fVmonlii, » new ipccie* (near Ihe R«d Bultei), were found in tbi* part of the Journey. In saline loklii, on llie Upfier Platto, near the mouth of the Sweet Water, wert Golleotad leferal intcreiting CHBNoroDUcajc, one of which was Ant dluovered by Dr. Jamei, in Long'i Expedition ; and although it wat conttdered aa a new genua, I did not daarribe it, owing to the want of the ripe fhiit. It ii the plant doubtfully referred by Hooker, in bia Flora Boreali Americana, to Batia. He had Mcn the male flower* only. A* it it certainly a new genua, I have dedicated it to the excellent commander of the expedition, at a welt^merited compliment fur the lervicet bo hat rendered North American Botany. The Sweet Water valley it a «undy plain, about one hundred and twenty milea long, and generally about Ave milet broad ; bounded by rangea of granitic mountaina, between whloh, the Tallcy formation coniiata, near the Devil'a gate, of a grayiah mioaeeout aandatooe, with marl and white clay. At the encampment of Augiut 5th-6th, there ocourrrd a Ane white aiigUla- ceoua aanditone, a cuarae aandatone or puddingatone, and a white calcoreoua aandatone. A few milea to the weat of that poaition, Lieut. F. reached a point where the aandatone retted immediately upon the granite, which thenceforward, along hia line of route, alternated wl;h a compact mica slate. Along the Sweet Water, many interesting plantt were collected, at may be teen by an exam* ination of the catalogue; 1 would, however, mention the curiout (Enotktra M\MaHi, Torr. and Or. ; Eurolia lanata, Mocq, (Diotit lanatn, PuiiA;, which seemt tu be diatinct from £. etrati^i; Tktrmopiu montano, Nutt. ; Gilia pvkhtUa, Dougl. ; Stiueio sparlioidtt, Torr. and Gr., a new iipeciea, and four or Ave species of wild currants (Ribtsirriguum, Dougl., &c.) Near the mouth of the Sweet Water was found the Plantago triopkora, Torr., a apeciet Ant detcribed in my Dr. James'a Rocky Mountain Plvnts. On the upper part, and near the dividing lidge, were col- lected aeveral apecioa of Caatilltja ; PtnUtetnon micranUut, Nutt. ; teveral OtntUmt ; the pretty little »9ndrosaee oceidtntalis, Nutt. ; Solidago incana, Torr. and Gr. ; and two species of £rtcyo- nttm, one of which was new. On the 8th of August, the exploring party crossed the dividing ridge or pass, and found the toil of the plains at tlie foot of the mountains on the western tide to be tandy. From Laramie's fork to this point, different speciet of Artemisia were the prevailing and characteristic plants ; occupying the place of the grasses, and Ailing the air with the odor of camphor and turpen> tine. Along Little Sandy, a tributary of the Colorado of the West, were colleoted a new speciet of Pkaea (P. Agitata), and Panuariafimbriata. On the morning of the 10th of August, they entered the deAles of the Wind River mountaina, a apur of the Rocky Mountaina or Northern Andes, and among which, they spent about eight dayt. On the borders of a lake, embosomed in one of the defiles, were collected Stdum Rhodiola, UC. (which had been found before, louth of Kotzebue'a Sound, only by Dr. James) ; Sttucio ky drofkilvs, Nutt. ; Vaceinium uligiiummt ; Betula glanduUoia, and B. ocddtnUUis, Hook. ; EUtignut argentta, and Shephtr^ Canadensis, Some of the higher peaks of the Wind River mountaina rise 1,000 feet, above the limits of perpetual anow. Lieut. Fremont, attended by four of hit men, ascended one of the loftiett peaks on the 15th of Auguit. On thit he found the snow line 12,500 feet above the level of the sei. The vegetation of the mountains is truly Alpine, em- bracing a considerable number of species common to both hemispheres, as well as some that are peculiar to North America. Of the former, Lieut. Fremont collected Phleum alpinuat ; Oxyria ren\formit ; Veronica alpina ; several tpecies of Salix ; Cartx atnUa ; C. ptaaeta ; and, im- mediately below the line of perpetual congelation, SiUnt aeaulit and PoUmonxwn •oruleum, B Hook. Among the alpine plants peculiar to the western hemisphere, there were found On- «]>Mto myrt^/blia, Nutt. ; .tf^iMlegia esni/ea, Torr. ; Pcdtcuteru nurtcla, Benth. ; Pvimonmna ctltata, James; SUme Drummondii, Hook. ; Mtmit^ empttriformiif PotenHUa gracMt, Dougl. ; aeveral species of Ptnw ; Pratera iptciota, Hook. ; IMkcatkeon dtntatum, Hook. ; Phlox muieoides, Nutt. ; Stneeio Frenumtii. n. sp., Torr. and Gr. ; four or five Mtrs, and Vaecimum myrtiUoides, Mx. ; the last seven or eight, very near the snow line. Lower down the mountain were found Arnica 81 r243] mn*teoUMtioa;> VupkniU mrgmtiur found in this pwrt weet W«ter, w«ra red by Dr. Jmdm, id not dMrribc it, Doker, in bia Tion ia cerUinljf ■ Mw u * wen-owritod ly milM long, and wtwecD which, the nditoM, with marl fine white aiiKUia- oiM sanditone. A e sandstone rested I, alternated wi.h a tmifmt\fulia, Valil ; Sinfrio Iriaiic^ilnri*, lliiolt. ; >S'. lubnudtu, l)C ; MitrnrhifncStu troximoiJt$, Torr. and Gr. ; HtHanlhtlla unyhra, Torr. and Or, and l.inotffrin vheidijlora, lloolc. The expedition left the Wind River moiintuin* ubout llie 18th of August, returning by th« name route as that by which it a»cended, exrapt that it continued its course through the whole length of the liOWtr Platte, arriving at its Junction with the Missouri on the 1st of October. As the plants of I.ieut. Fremont were under examination while the last part of the Flora of North America was in the press, nearly all the new matter relating to the Composite was in- serted in that work. Descriptions of a few of the new species were necessarily omitted, owing to ttte Report of the Expedition having been called for by Congress before I could finish the necessary analyses and comparisons. These, however, will be inserted in tlie successive num^ ben of the work to which I have Just alluded. * JOHN TORREY. Niw York, Marth, 1643. e seen by an exam- Ma<«/H, Tprr. and , trom E. ctrat(Mti ; irr. and Or., a new ) Near the mouth iescribed in my Dr. Ing I idge, were col- itntiaiu ; the pretty > species of Erv)g(^ pass, and found the From Laramie's aracteristic plants ; raphor and turpen- collected a new River mountains, nt about eight days. tdum Rhodiola, DC. ames); Stneeio Ay- Hook.; EUagnut River mountains ided by four of his bund the snow line truly Alpine, em- well as some that Phltum olpinum ; panicea ; and, im- lumium taruUvm, B were found On- Pulmonaria eiliata, I*, Dougl. ; seTcral mtucouies, Nutt. ; trtiUoidtt, Mx. ; the vere found ^ntca 1 W-- ^^ W I .ff 'i M CATALOGUE OF PLANTS. Clam I.— EXOGENOUS PLANTS. AANUNCULACEJC CltmatU Vlrginkmt (Una.) Vallej of th« Platto. Jitn«, July. Jtanuncwiui Krltraltu (Linn.) Valley of tha Swaat Water rWer. Au|ust 18-90. R CymMtfia (Punh). Upper Platte. July 31, Auguit. ^quiUgit tmruka (Torr.) Wind River mountalM. August 13-16. ^ffaa ru»r« (Blgel.) Upper Platte. Aufuit 96-31. ThtUutrum Comuti (Linn.) Platte. T mtgacarpum, n. fp. Upper Platte. Auguit 96-31. • MENIBPERMACEiE. JUtnifptrmnm CanedttiK (Linn.) ijCavei only. On the Platte. BERBERIDACEiG. Btrbtri) Jqu\folium (Torr. and Or.) Wind River mountaini. Augutt 13-16. PAPAVERACEiE. Jrgmont JItxieana Q alMfior* (DC ) Forki of tiie Platte. July 9. CRUCIFERA- ^•iturtiumjMluiln (DC.) Black HUU of the Platte. July 96-Augu«t. £ryiimum duiranUtMu (Linn.) Blaok Hillt. July 93. £. upmm (Nutt.) South fork of the Platte. July 4. PachypMNum (Thelypodium, Bodl. gen. p. 876,) integrifoUum (Nutt.) North fork of the Platte. September 4. Var. with longer podi. With the preceding. Fcficaria iv. f the Red Buttes. July 30. Brt^ n. tf. Wind River mountains, near the Ikaiti of perpetual snow. August 15. LtpMvm Tviitrtit (Linn.) On the Platte. June 99. > J.jsa .' CAPPARlDACEiC Clttmt intffri/Uia (Torr. and Or.) From the Lower Platte nearly to the mountaini. June 99, July 9, Aug. 91. J>«{eniiia (rad^qwrme, jg (Torr. and 6r.) Bla^k HUli of the Platte. July 83. P0LTOALACE£. P«i)fal« otts (Nutt.) P. Beyriehii, (Torr. and Or.) Forki of the Platte. July 9. DR08ERACE£. PanuMie Jtmbrieta (Banki.) Little Sandy creek, deflles of the Wind River mountaini. Aug. 8. CARYOPHTLLACE£. t^MMria tvnguU (Nutt.) Highest parts of the Wind River aountaini. Aug 13-16. Minw DrummomKi (Hook.) With the preceding. S. acouiit (Linnl) Wind Rirtr movintaini, at the limits of perpetual snow. . [248] 84 fr PORTtfLACACKT- T(Uinum p«rt\/lontm (Null.) Little lllu* rivir of lh« Ktniu. Jun« M> LINAGES. Utium rigiilum (Piinh). North fork of Iha PUlta July 6 L. pntntu (Linn. ) Black IIIIU to tha Hwect Wttar of tho Piatt*. Aug 8-31. OERANIACiLC. Otranium PrmtnHi, n. qi. Bla^k Ililli. Aug. 96-31. OXALIDAGEO:. OMalii ttrUla (Um.) On the Ktntu. Jun«. ANACARUIA( EiC. JUuilrHa (Nutt.) Summit of the Wind River mounUini. Aug. li-U. RHAMNACEiC. -Ctanutkm ululiitixu (Dougl.) With the preceding. •€. ^nMricontu, var. languineus. C. aanguineua (Punb). On the Pl#te. wn). Goat UUnd of lh« Upp«r PIttu. July SI. fStft Mlr^aliwi (DC.) lilRhatt lummiu of tha Wlmi RWar mountaia. Aug. 15. />. iltgant (Hook.) var > Goal itiand of iha Uppar PlatU. July 31. P. ( (hrviih»ta) tligU»t», n. ip. Llltia Handy rtf ar. Aug. 8. P. UngifiiU* (Null.) (Iaavi<« only). Wind RWer mountaina. Aug. 19-17. Ktnlroithyla montana (Nutt) Laramie rivar to the Sweat Water. July 14-Aiig.^. iMfiinut UuruphyUut (LIndl.) Wind Ki«er mountain*, and Hwaat Water of Ilia rlatta. Auf. 4-'JI. /., ern«i(iu (Dougl.) L. laucopali (Agardh.) With the preoadlng. Bai'tlaia ttueanlka, (Torr. and Gr.) Kaniai river. TVrmopit mon^arM (Nutt.) Sweet Water river. Aug. 5. VMia tkamaicriit* {lAnn.) Muuth of tha Platte. Sept. 90. St^krankia uneinata (Willd.) Kama* and Platte rivF-<. Juna 19-Sept. lUtrlingtonia brachypodu (DC.) On the Platto. Sept. 17. ROSACEA. frroiui yirgiMana (Torr. and Or.) Upper North fork of tha Flatt*. July SO. Ctrcocwrpxu parv{/blitu (Nutt.) Bitter creek, North fork of tha Platla. July 99. PuriMatridtnUta (DC.) Sweet Water river, lus. Aug. 19-B«pt. Ufum Virglnianum {Unn.) Kaniias river. Juna 90. Sibbatdia proeumhtni (Linn ) Wind River mountaint, near perpetual mow. Aug. 13-14. PdtoUiMfl^aeUii (Dougl.) With the preceding. P. divtr>{thlia (Lehm.) Sweet Water of the Platte to the ntounlaini. Aug. 4-19. P. ^tricta Q. glabrata (Lehm.) WiUi tha preceding. P. /riUicoM (Linn.) With the preceding. P. .inuHna (Linn.) Black HilU of tha Platte. July 96-31. /' argiua (Purih). Little Blue river of Uie Kama*, and Black Hills of the Platte. Juna 03- Aug. 98. Jlufttu itriffotut (Michx.) Defile* of the Wind Rivar mountaini. Aug. 13-17. .hntlanchiir divtn^folia, var. alnifolla, (Torr. and Or.) Sweet Water of the Platte. Aug. 5. Ru) Black Hills. July 36. (iaura cofcinea (Nutt.) Var. ? Little Blue River of the Kanza North fork of iho PUiu. July U UHOlMlTLAOKir I Hikti Mr*vm (l.intll.) IwMt Walir of Iho TUiU. Aniual 9-4 A. bfiMfrt (Tolr) With Iha prt#turWu ^Huow^^nlU (DC.) Forki of Iho PUtU. July 9 rRAM8tri,Acr./f:. .v>(i<»i RA pulttruUt Hiigrrut, ('4t of MrpUni H murrnnlhu H flithtltwn H itilgmiHm (luUftrnia f .*< MifMOtirtn >•*. iptclwia (J * t'trga-mm lifliKhl of 7 >. inrana (T( *■ Kiganlta (I /.iii«iy»ii frat I, ritrlilijiurit • Ijili'imppu^ tfi 93- Aug. 31 Clmj^itHHi At J ('■ m««U(Ni /in aj'l//ai'ii ( fViimiWa difc l.rjiarhijii rolui BiUMmtnrhiia Hfliiinlhni i>ft H. Mnximilia llilianlhttla u Cortnpiii Unci Cnmidium gr BiJnu connali U\jmn\n\uipp» ,'klinrUa gran Miillta Mltle 'Irltmiiia Mrti .1 caiio (Pun •1. tridtnlala >1.filifutia ( Sept. 3. >?. Canadenri *1. Ludovicim .«. frlgida {W .1 Lewisii (1 iftephanointria naium ( Dougi ) I III Ut« onlinarjr knoiMti or pin> I I'i-n Au|. 91. 31 ». c precodin;, the 8T [«48] .f «4lng. .1 MitHfiiiMMi (Htchnnlt.) Wlih iliv |ir««<«ilin( ,f ff'fvM* (Torr. tml Or.) WiimI Hi««r miMinUtM. .1 tl»ttf*" (Torr. «nil <»r.) Wild ihi> |irvci>iliii|, IMirU tiHM* (Null. ) On tlM Piall* /). loronff^tlU ( Null. ) VN ilb Ui« prrcnUng. /) fultfrul,t%t» (Null ) Nmr I). ■•Mlliriora. Willi Ilia prarmiint f.r\strm, ('«iM<4ritM (l.inn ) Oil Ilia I'UlU, froM nakT lU Bouih lu Ilia RaU BulUi. Ltttar part uf Mi>pi«nili#r lo July 30. i; »fH/i/i«i/rMW (Null.) On Ilia Plallr. r. mmr^ihum (Null.) Wllh llir prarcitlng. i; t^tlMUum (Null.) Wllh Ilia pracadlng. F. itrlgotim ( Muhl. ) Willi Iha precatllng. (luHnrnla F.iiihmniit (Torr nml Or. ) l,ttnimi« rivnr, uppar norlh fork of Uia Plalla. 8«p(. I. MiJnKo rijfUn (l.lnii) Norlh forlh of Iha PlatU. .V MiKwtrifitrit (Null.) Korl Larunila, norlh fork uf Ina Platlc. July U, to th« mounlaim. H. tpeclMa (Null.) Upper I'lalla. y f'trga-aurta (Linn.) var. mulliraillala, (Turr ami Or.) Wind Rivar mountain, from Ui* hfliithl of 7,U0U feat, lu |Mfrpaliitl mow. 5. inetna (Torr. and (>r ) Hwaet Wulrr rIvar. A giXtnlia (l.inii ) var. ^;. t'rum tlia I'latln lo Iha mounlain«. /.mutyiit |riir«a/rni (Torr. and Or ) Swaat Walar river. Aug. 80 /.. rljrli/|/l;iiii •/iniu/ritiM (!M,'.) Fort I.itrumie, north fork of Iha Platta. Rapt. 9. Viinitrlia lufuanoM (Dunul). t'p|H'r north fork of Iha Platte, and on Iha Dwoat Water. Julj 99- Aug.)) I. rimjHoiMt Hi»i>Uta (lloiik.) On Iho Platta. ('. m<./(ij(Null.) With the precpding. Too near Cyb/ioM, (Null.) /ill (wlHaiii (Piir«h). Hwccl Woicr rin-r. Aug. 3. ' ' fViiriMrla ditcolitr (Null.) Near the Wind River mountains. I.rjuirhijf folumnitHi (Torr. and fir.) Little Blue river of Uic Kaniu«. June 86. BdMmorrkisa ingilhta (Null.) Wind Rivar mountaJD*. llrlnmlhHi jHtiolam (SuH.) HIark IlilU of the Platte. July 86. //. ^/ajimWianJ (Srhrad.) With the preceding. ,. Hitianlhtlta un{flnra (Torr. and Or.) Wind Rivar mountain*. ('9r seed oblong, strongly punctate. Nearly related to P. integrifolia (Torr.) ; but diflers in the leaves being perfectly entire, the more numerous spikes, one-seeded capsules, as well as in the whitish strigose pubescence of the whole plant. POLEMONIACEiE. Phlox muscoides (Nutt.) Immediately below the region of perpetual snow, on the Wind River mountains. Aug. 15. P. Hoodii (Richards.) North fork of the Platte. July 8. P. pilosa (Nutt.) Big Blue river of the Kansas. June 30. Pokmoniiim eanUeum (Linn., Hook.) Red Buttes on the Upper N. fork of the Platte. humile vllook.) Highest parts of the mountains, near perpetual snow. Aug. 13-15. (iiliafCttntm) lot}giflora{Torr) Sand Hills of the Platte. Sept. 16. G pukhella (Dougl.) Upper part of the Sweet Water near the mountains. Aug. 7-30. G. inco)upiciia (Dougl.?) Goat Island, upper N. fork of the Platte. July 30. This differs from the Oregon plant in Us fleshy, simply pinnatifid leaves, with ovate, obtuse segments. t248] 00 N. : Xi |i i!i1; CONVOLVlJLACEif.. CalyUtgia upturn (R, Br.) Forki of (he Platta. July 9. fyontaa Uplnphylla, n. sp. Stomt branching from the batn, prostrate, glabrous, angular ; IcavM laDcoolate-linear, very acute, entire, attenuate at the bate Into a petiole; pedunciea l-3>llow- erod ; sepals rounilish-ovnto, obtuse with a minute mucro.— Forks of the Platte to Laramie river, July 4-Scpt. 3. Imperfect specimens of this plant were collected about the sources of the Canadian, by Dr. Jumes, in Long's expedition, but they were not described in my aeoouat of his plants. The root, according to Dr. James, is annual, producing numerous thick pros- trate, but nut twining, stems, which are two feet or more in length. The leaves are from two to four mches long, acute at each end, strongly veined and somewhat coriaceous- Pe- duncles an inch or more in length, those towards the extremity of the branches only 1-flow- cred ; the lower ones bearing 3-3, and sometimes 4, flowers, which are nearly the size of those of Calystegia sepium, and of a purplish color. Sepals approssed, obout five lines long. Corolla campanulate — funnel form, the tube much longer than the calyx. Stamens inserted near the base of the corolla ; filaments villous at the base ; anthers oblong-linear, large. Style as long a* the stamens ; stigma 9-lobed ; the lobes capitate. Ovary 3-celled, with two ovules in each cell. SOLANACE/G. .Vl^tttrium luteiim (Donn cat.) South fork of the Platte. July 4. rhysalis pitheKfm {WiM.) Upper North fork of the Platte. July 23. p. pumila (Nxxlt.) With the preceding. OENTIANACE^.. Genliana ardopkita /3 densiflora (Griseb. ? in Hook. fl. Bor. — Am. 3. p 61.) Sweet Water of the Vlatte. Aug. 4. G. q/^nt4 (Griseb.) North fork of the Platte. Sept. 9. Ci. I'netmonanthe (L'mn.) Laramie river to Little Sandy creek in the mountains. July 12- Aug. 8. ■Ci. fVnnontii, n. sp. Stem branched at the base ; branches l-flowered ; leaves ovate, cuspidate, car- tilaginous on the margin, erect ; corolla funnel-form ; plicoe small, slightly 2-toothed ; capsule ovate, at length entirely exscrted on its thick stipe. — Wind River mountains. — Annual. Branches several, 3-3 inches long, of nearly equal length. Leaves about three lines long, with a strong whitish cartilaginous border, shorter titan the internodes. Flowers as large as those of G. prostrata, pentamerous. Calyx two-thirds the length of the corolla ; the teeth about 'one-third the length of the tube. Plicoe of the corolla scarcely one-tiiird as long as the lanceolate lobes. Stamens included ; anthers oblong, somewhat cordate at the base. Capsule in matu- rity, and after dehiscence (in which state all our specimens were collected), exserted quite beyond the corolla, and, with its long stipe, resembling a style with a large bilamellate stig- ma. None of the capsules contained any seeds. This species \j nearly related to G. pros- irata (Haenk.) and G. humil'is (Stev.), but the former lias spatulate obtuse recurved leaves, and the latter entire plicae, which are nearly the length of the corolla. In G. humilis, and in the allied G. squanoaa (Ledeb.) the capsule is exserted after discharging the seeds. Swtrtia perennis, ^ obtusa (Hook.) From Laramie river to the Big Buttes. J^-osera sprciosa, ( Hook. ) Defiles of the Wind River mountains. Aug. 13-14. lAsianthua Russelianxu (Hook.) Lower Platte to the Forks. July-Sept. APOCYNACE.'E. t^lpocynum cannabinwn {hinn.) On the Platte. ASCLEPIADACEvE. Jisclepiaa speciosa (Torr., in ann. Lye. N. York, 3. p. 318. — A. Douglasii, Hook. fl. Bor.— Am. 2 p. 53. t. 143.) Forks of the Platte. July 3. Collected also by Mr. Nicollet in his North- western exp collected by vtrtiMlaU{] luhtroia(lAi mUherix virii mUti long^fol . MgiuHfoHtu huinui plalya JImlago eWopoc . pwphaloidfs hnopodium tot \. Mum ( Linr I'mt i.-itMserni the Platte. . [i/cMom« plalyp Sept 4. iieia maritinM i \urolia tanata {] 18-25. 'tmontia, D. ge terminal ame date upward, solitary, axill entire, nearly wing. Ovarj two-thirds co ble. Embryc ttrmiciUmris. of the Platte branched shri semiterete, 6- inch long, cy covering nakt leaves. Ca'y lengtii form in plant, which . sources of the published in t niicularis of 1 Mr. Douglas, third localiiy, Rocky Mount hardly be reff sous heteromi tyhaphm nyctai (Nutt.) Kani lis, angular; !«•»•• peduncle! 1-3-llow- Platte to Laninie bout the sourcet of ibed in my account imerout thick pro»- he leaves are from it coriaceou*. Pe- inchei only 1-flow- 9 nearly the size of d, about five lines e calyx. Stamens ;hers oblong-linear, )vary9-celled,wilh Sweet Water of the ountains. July 12- ivatc, cuspidate, car- ■ 2-toothed ; capsule lountains. — Annual, mt three lines long, Flowers as large as 9lla ; the teeth about )ng as the lanceolate Capsule in matu- ted), exserted quite ge bilamellate stig- y related to G. pros- se recurved leaves, n G. humilis, and in the seeds. -14. »ok. fl. Bor— Am. 2 collet in his Nortb> 91 [243] western expedition. Hooker's plont diflera in no essential charaeten from my A. ipaciota, collected by Dr. James in ling's Ant expedition. vtrtUiUal* (Linn.) Small var ety. With the preceding. tuhtroitt (lAnn.) Kansas river. June 19. , mtkerix viriMi (Nutt.) Big Blue river of the Kansas. June SO. mUi UmgifoUa {BID Polyotus longifolia. (Nutt.) With the preceding. miguiUfoHw. Folyotui angustifolius. (Niitt.) With the preceding. OLEACE>B. uiniM platyeitrpa (Michx.) Leaves only. Lower Platte. Mago triopoda (Torr. putphaloUn (Hutt.) PLANTAGINACE/E. in ann. Lye. N. York, Q, p. 937.) Mouth of the Sweet Water. July 31. Little Blue river of the Kansas. June 34. CHENOPODIACE*. hfnvpod'mm toiUrifolium (Hook.) Platte.' Mum (Linn.) North fork of the Platte. July 12. lime iTnttetni (Mocq. Chenop p. 74 ) Atriplex canesccns. (Nutt.) Upper north fork of the Platte. July 36. ijclotoma plaiypHyUa (Mocq. 1. c. p. 18.) Kochia dentata, (Willd.) North fork of the Platte. Sept 4. mitt maritinw (Mocq. 1. c. p. 137.) With the prececding. iirottalanofa (Mocq. 1. c. p. 81.) Diotis lanata, (Pursh). Red Buttes to the mountains. Aug. 18-25. ■monlia, D. gen. Flowers diclinous, monoecious &? dioicous, heteromorphoiis. Stam. Fl. in terminal aments. Scales excentrically peltate, on a short stipe, angular, somewhat cuspi- date upward. Stamens 3-3-4 under each scale, naked, sessile ; anthers oblong. Pist. Fl. solitary, axillary. Perigonium closely adhering to the lower half of the ovary, the border entire, nearly obsolete, but in fruit enlarging into a broad horizontal angular and undulate wing. Ovary ovate; styles thick, divaricate; stigmas linear. Fruit a utricle, the lower two-thirds covered with the indurated calyx, compressed. Seed vertical ; integument dou- ble. Embryo flat-spiral (3-3 turns) green; radicle inferior; albumen none. ttrmictUaris. Batis? vermicularis, (Hook.) Fl. Bor. Amer. 3. p. 128. Upper north foik of the Platte, near the mouth of the Sweet Water. July 30. A low, glabrous, diffusely branched shrub,' clothed with a whitish bark. Leaves alternate, linear, fleshy and almost scmiterete, 6-12 lines long and 1-3 lines wide. Staminate aments about three-fourths of an inch long, cylindrical, at first dense, and composed of closely compacted angular scales, covering naked anthers. Anthers very deciduous. Fertile flowers in the axils of the rameal leaves. Calyx closely adherent, and at first with only an obscure border or limb, but at length forming a wing 3-4 lines in diameter, resembling that of Salsola. This remarkable plant, which 1 dedicate to Lieutenant Fremont, was first collected by Dr. James about the sources of the Canadian, (in Long's expedition) but it was omitted in my account of his plants published in the Annals of the Lyceum of Natural History. It is undoubtedly the Batis .' ver- micularis of Hooker, (1. c.) collected on the barren grounds of the Oregon river by the late Mr. Douglas, who found it with only the staminate flowers. We have it now from a tiiird localiiy, so that the plant must be widely diffused in the barren regions towards the Rocky Mountains. It belongs to the sub-order Spirolobeae of Meyer and Mocquin, but can hardly be referred to either the tribe Susedinse or to Salsola;, differing from both in its dicli- nous heteromorphous flowers, and also from the latter in its flat-spiral, not cochleate embryo. cybaphm nyctaginea (Torr. in Janies (Nutt.) Kansas river, June 30. NYCTTAGINACEiE. Rocky mountain plants. )sCalymenia nyctaginea* ^'^• A ; I':. [248] 9i .fkrenui nuKiAra (DougL) North fork of the Platte, July 7-19. .}. (THptnoealjix) mieranthum, n. ip. Viioid and glandularly pubeMCDt; IeayeioTata,wiidvlat«, obtuM, acute at the bate, petiolate ; perianth fUnnel form, 4*lobed at the lumBtit, ^-in^- drous; achenium broadly 3-winged.— Near the mouth of Sweet Water riT«r. Au( I Annual. Stem difi\jMly branched (torn the base, beginning to flower when only an Inch higki the branchei of the mature plant above a foot long. Leaves 1-1| inch in length ; petiolee abovt a« long as the lamina. Heads axillary. Involucre 5-leaved, 8'14-flowerad; leaflets ovate, acuminate. Perianth colored (purplish) 3-4 lines long; lobes semi-ovate, obtuse. Stamens inserted in the middle of the tube, unequal *, anthers ovate, sagittate at the bate. Ovar; oblong, clothed with the 3-wmged base of the calyx ; style Aliform ; stigma Aliformsi PRCHIDACE*, PUUanthera Itucopkita (Lindl.) Black Hilb. July 97. P.h}iptrborta(R.BT.) Laramie river to the Red Butte«. Aug. 96-31- SpiraniluM eemua (Rich.) Sweet Water river.' Aug. 7. ,9pkctnm hyenule (Nutt.) On the Platte. June 99. IRIDACE£. fci,^U' -Vt SiiyrineUum anttps (Linn.) North fork of the Platte. July 13. /rli JViMiinMsis (Nutt. in Jour. Acad. Phil; 7, p. 58.) In firuit. Sweet Water river. Aog. 3. RWaomaVei^ thick. Laavesnarrow, rigid, as long as the scape. Scape nearly naked, Show- ered, terete, 10 inches high. Capsules obldng obtusely triangular. FloweN not teen. LILIACEA. yutca anjrui({/biia (Sims). Laramie river. July 14. JIlRtm rttieulatum (Fras.) Defiles in the Wind River mountains. Aug. 12-17. Simkcina OtUaU (Desf.) From the Laramie river to the Red Buttes. Aug. 96-31. MELANTHACEiE. Zjgadmui jrfoueia (Nitt.) Swe«t Water river. Aug. fj' • i' [ 848 1 04 JUlfCACEA. Jhiicm icMimIw (Muhl.) North fork of tho PUtte. 8«pt. 4. COMMBLYNACEiC 7V«l(Mani{« Firyinka (Lion.) and t ntrrow-leaTMl vartoty. KaMu and Platte. CYPERACEA. ^ Ctru fittvtaita (Sehk.) On th« Kanut. Jum. C. aurta (Nutt.) Little Biuo rirer of tha KaMU. June 89. C. panicca (Linn.) Alpine region of the Wind River mountain*, near perpetual mow. Aa|.i C. atrola (Linn.) With the preceding. ORAMINE^. Spwtina cynrnwddei, (Willd.) Little Blue river of the Kansas. June 93. ^riilUm paUciu, (Purah). On the Platte. June 89. ^gmtii MiehmuUma (Trin.) Little Blue river of the Kansas. June i)3. PUtvm aljtinvm, (Linn.) Alpine region of the Wind River mountains. Aug. 13-If . Bromui cUUUui (Linn.) On the Platte. June-Aug. FtHuca orina (Linn.) Alpine region of the Wind River mountains. Aug. 19-14. Ftttvea Mttteiu, (Willd.) Oa the Kansas. Pou Uua (Haenke.) With the preceding. P. eroeata (Miehx. ?) With the preceding. Spikeieta 3-flewered. P. nrrvala (Willd.) On the Kansas. KotUria eriftata (Pars.) Big Blue river of the Kansas, and on the Platte as high ai Lini river. June QO-July 33. DcMhamptia caipilosa, (Beauv.) Alpine region of the Wind River mountains. Aug. 13-li .indropogon Mopariui (Miohx.) Lower Platte. .4. nutans (Linn.) Laramie river, N. fork of the Platte. Sept. 3-4. Hordtumjubatwn (Ait.) Forks of the Platte. July 9. £(ymui Virginkui (Linn.) Big Blue river of the Kansas. June 90. £. Canadnuii ( Linn. ) Little Blue river of the Kansas. June 99. Bwktnannia tructfomk ( Jacq.) North fork of the Platte. July 99. EQUISETACEiG- ffttiselum artenic (Linn.) On a lake in the Wind River mountains. Aug. 19-17. FILICES. JAflMpeMi oMwa (Tort, eompend. hot N. Slates, p. 380, 1896.) WoodsL Perriniana (Hook, and Orev. loon. Fil. 1. 1. 68.) tusum, (Hook. fl. fior.— Am. SI p. 259.) On the Platte. Aspidium obtusum (Wl Physentatium (Kaulf.) .,J V '- «!.'*'. • ;, ;»ir«i/ itar^iwis tm.. .jifk .'i-i^!^.1'>tJx'^.a;V':, ; .:«W; ttf-,;* nd Platte. p«rp«tual MOW. Aa| b99. S3. 1. Aug. 13-If Aug. 13-14. Platte «i high u Ltni luntaina. Aug. 13-U Aug. 1»-17. ipidium obtuium (Wl ijsematium (Kaulf.) *'a;, iwsfw r n>»:4 I ASTRONOMICAL OBSERVATIONS. The mi j«c»ion, ail t^or (he jeciion, aiid the longiuid«t are referred to the meridian of Greenwich. For the delerniiuaiion of oetrouoiiiical poaitioni we were provided with ilio following inttrumenlt : One teluscope, inngnifyinff power 120. One circle, by Qambeyt Paris. One sextant, by Qaml)ey, Paris. One sextant, by Truughton. One box chronomeier, No. 7,810, by French. One Bruckbank pocket chronumeier. One small watch with a light chronometer balance, No. 4,632, by Arnold ic Dent. The rate of the chronometer 7,S10, is exhibited in the following state- ment : " New York, May 5, 1S43. ^' Cluonometer No. 7,810, by French, is this day at noon, *» Slow of Greenwicli mean time • • 11' 4" ** Fa$t of New York mean time - - Ah 45' 1" *' Loses per doy .... 2" ,V « ARTHUR STEWART, *' 74 Merchants^ Exchange.^* An accident, amon? some rough ground in the neighborhood of the Katizas river, strninea the balance of this chronometer (No. 7,810), ami rendered it useless during the remainder of the campaign. From the 9th of June to the 24lh of August inclusively, the longitudes depend upon the Brockbank pocket chronometer; the rate of which, on leaving St. Louid, was fourteen seconds. The rate obtained by observations at Fort Laran^ie, ]11".05, has been used in calculation. From the 24th of August until the termination of the journey, No. 4,632, lof which the rate was 35".79, was used for the same purposes. The rate ef jtliis watch was irregular, and I place but little confidence in the few longi- lludes which depend upon it, though, so far as we have any means of judg- liiig, they appeiir tolerably correct. ■*l^ [U»i 08 } i I «.!'!' ^'Kssxxxs; lists Q:99;X»8S(89)5S iSSSS 88:i«9 <88S= li9!!;;9S9SSSns8t8 4f»Ai!)SAS!;99939; CD C9 u " ^ iT a w^ S 0-3S b A (9 3 S 3 ~ oc; - T-r °1 ■ 3 I r s t" ■- S:8»SllSS»f»SX8)olR!lS ?R?i;S9Sft!;:^3Stdt»8giSt 99«9;?9999«9Q;;999 T-r i^ ' &"■ = ! Q. - 3 1 r/) -=. o d o o «^ "3 "3 J* Ji J< Jd <- ^ _a rt a rt s c 5 o *>• *■ *j «rf ^ -" ^ ^ ^^ ^ u •' t: dC WJ M M) a 3 3 o o u a 3 I T—T is (1 e e JJ ■ J/i (o.t.i.S a.'i.'i.t.t 3 t, ll°- _g j!j _ej Jl « Cm Oa Cl< Oa -J^ a $2 si a ^ 3 O OS a o o s o O O O O 3 ^ <« <_< o o o o v u tttnt O O O O ^ fe 55 S5 J5 !«: 03 90 2 ^- « '■* nc ?> C '"i *•= ^- 'W S5 tJ ^ VS t-- — 'N M -r vo M •* O W W 50 C» S _. "5 3 li9SV) ; 89tS ! 1_ M 2S99 :« 355» i;i • t • • • I :1 '.'3 :e n ¥ • • ■5jS "a • •■ 2 - • o i •lo :j-T3 • >> • - u • w « i< S wIjo «! J < «*, S OJ 03 •^ '^ ^^ pi^ , [MS] t.. . T-T-T-r-r-n— . : : : t • • • 1 : • • • • • ' ''I a. « r 1=1 : : : H : . • • 5 • • • • : • ••£•• • • * X ■ • • •— ! . • • • • • t jt • fi • IS : I rt i> cB ^ _w Jg 3 O O V «J « O O u u iiiiiirsi ; S5 ^ » » » !C cc oc lOJ '-"'^^SSS' :iSDR 88tS ^ji;;;;; 1 - o I . » t I L..t_ -i. Ii I I. I I t.l .J. * * ' ' ■ 1 J_J- I t t s ^ 9 >-> o C yi 1* n ft n S U V u u M?* " w »* :s * i» * » 2 ® o o ij-a u u o o 3 o a e I J, ," ,' J Id M l4 Irt fcN a b K u S: ^ > i» i» •2^5.2 Cu EC C ■S55-S ss ass >«; ;^ ;< ;^ S au o^ ol £ « « « «] « U V «J arf ^ vrf (Q £4 ^ (4 a. d -^ i^. 33 ;>■; *^. .'i 1 ci f i.-i \s ••o J} rs t H- t:l 1 I li (848] 100 St. U»4s — i?ffW DITIRMIXATION Or LATITUOI. May 27, l849.^Aliilttd« of Polarif. O^MTvationt. Double ftllUwU of Poltrlt. TtiM of ehrawHMlar. dig, mlH, (w. 74 38 90 74 38 10 14 40 10 k, mln. m. 4 M tr 4 19 41 4 K 90 Index error - ~ 2(y', RtiuU 6 35 30.0 6 36 19.3 6 37 10.0 6 37 45.7 giludc. )i. see. ) 31 103 [ S48 I Encampment at Chouttau^s fmeer trading-houH. — Continued. Besult of calculation. True altitude. Moan time. Latitude. deX' min. set. 37 4-J 96 h. min. ste. 9 31 43 dtg, min. sec. 39 05 53 June 9, 1842.— Altitude of Antares in t the meiidiun. Double altitude of An- tares. deg. 49 Nllfl. Ht. 49 50 True altitude. deg. min. sc. 94 49 17 Latitude. deg. min, sec. 39 06 00 Encampment on the left bank of the Kanzas river. ^ DETERMINATION OF LONGITUDE. June 16, 1S42.— Altitude of the Sun. Observations, ' FIRST SERIES. SECOND SERIES. ..^ ■._.... Double altitude of the lower limb of the Suu. Time of chronometer. Double altitude of the lower limb of the Sun. Time of chronometer. deg. min. sec. 56 40 00 56 13 55 55 53 15 55 35 20 55 16 55 h. 6 6 6 G 6 7nin. 96 27 23 29 30 sec. 31.5 41.5 31.0 22.0 10.0 • deg. min. sec. 1 53 37 50 '■ 53 21 45 i 53 08 00 5s) 49 55 1 52 30 30 1 h. min. 6 31 6 35 6 35 6 36 6 37 sec. 26.0 07.7 47.0 39.7 23.0 Result of calculation. Mean time. Advance. Longitude. '!■, [243] 104 Encampment on the h/t bank of the Kanxm n'vrr.— Continued. DETERMINATION OF LATITUDE. Juno 16, 1842 — Altitude of Polaris. Observations. Double«ltitudeof Po> Time of chronometer. larit. deg. min. see. k. mt'n. see. 75 31 20 10 53 40 75 32 50 10 56 14 7J 34 20 10 58 43 75 34 20 ri 00 39 75 34 55 11 02 30 75 36 50 11 04 ."to 75 37 00 11 06 16 75 37 30 11 08 16 75 37 55 11 09 43 75 39 40 11 13 59 Dmiblr a lower lim 4U 40 40 39 39 ;.. Result of cakulation 1. ' ' • True altitude. Mean time. Latitude. deg. min, sec, 37 46 43 h. min. see, 9 23 30 deg. min. see. \-\- 39 06 40 DETERMINATION OF LATITUDE. Itv » June 16, 1842. — Altitude of * Aquilce. Observations. FIRST lERIEl. SECOND SERIES. Double altitude of a Aquiiffi. Time of chronometer. Double altitude of « Aquiloe. Time of chronometer. deg. min. sec. 5U 14 00 51 11 20 51 52 20 h. min, sec. 11 26 08 11 28 43 11 30 28 deg. min, see. 52 43 40 53 29 00 54 17 40 h. min. sec. 11 32 46 11 34 43 11 36 49 Result of calculation. Mean time. h. mtn. 50 sec. 47 Longitude. deg. 96 nun. 10 fee. 06 tnlinited- 105 Encampment on Little Vermiilion enek, DRTBRMINATION OF LONGITVDB. June 18, 1842.— AUitude of the Sup. ObMrvutions. [848 J riMT lERIEII. ICCUND IgRIE!). Double altitude of the towcrlimboftheSun. Time of chronometer. Double altitude of the lower limb of Che Sun. Time of chronoDM- ter. Jltf, ittiii. tee. 40 41 00 40 19 90 40 01 00 39 44 10 39 19 40 h. mln. 7 10 7 11 7 13 7 13 7 14 see. 41.0 38.0 96.5 115 17.5 def(. min, ice. 89 05 (H) 38 43 50 38 30 10 38 13 50 38 (10 00 h. min. see. 14 58.0 15 53.5 I< 30.0 17 14.0 17 50.0 Index error = — 36". Result of calculation. Mean time. ue. 40 k. 5 mm. 32 see. 18 Longitude. deg. mtn. see. 36 40 DETERMINATION OP LATITUDE. June 18, 1842.— AUitude of Polnii^. Observations. ES. le of chronometer. min. sec. il 32 46 II 34 43 11 36 49 Double altitude of Po- Time of chronometer. laris. de 25 50.6 1 Encamp Index error = — 42". Result of calculation. DETERMINATION OP LATITUDE. June 19, 1842.— Altitude of Polaris. Observations. Double aUitude of Time of chronometer. Polaris. dcg. min. see. h. min. see. 76 19 30 10 40 53 76 21 00 10 44 51 76 23 00 10 43 53 76 24 40 10 53 06 76 24 20 10 55 47 76 26 15 10 58 58 76 27 20 11 00 25 76 27 50 11 01 49 76 28 iiO 11 04 36 76 29 50 11 06 59 Result of calculation • True aUitude. Mean time. Latitude. dtg. min. sec. 3d 11 07 h. min. sec, 9 13 11 deg. min. ate, 3£ 30 40 Double aiti Aquil deg. min 50 34 51 19 59 11 107 [848] Encampment on the lAttle Blun river y 1 fiOO feet above the level of the Oulf of Mexico. me of chronomete-. h. m««. "''^• I ••••••••••••*•■■* 7 33 39 7 94 59..'> 7 95 50.6 DETERMINATION OF LATITUDE. June 25, 1842.~Altiiude of Polaris. Observations. Double altitude of Po- Time of chroaomeler. laris. dtg. min. He. h. min. see. 78 15 20 10 36 14 78 16 45 10 40 50 78 17 SO 10 43 36 78 19 35 10 45 14 • 78 30 15 10 46 67 • 78 SO 30 10 48 35 78 30 50 10 49 45 78 31 35 10 51 33 78 33 15 10 53 40 78 33 lU 10 54 17 ^Vfiit'..' Index error = + 25". Result of calculation. True altitude. %l mm. 09 see. 00 . ■«i Latitude. t mm. 36 sec. DETERMINATION OF LONGITUDE. June 25, 1842. — Altitude of » Aquilae. Observations. FIRST SERIES. - SECOND SERIES. Double altitude of a Aquilse. Time of chronometer. Double altitude of a Aquilae. Time of chronomster. deg, min, sec. 50 34 40 51 19 10 53 11 15 h. 11 11 11 min. sec. 01 45.0 03 47.3 06 07.0 • dtg. min. 53 OP 53 40 54 37 sec. 30 00 15 /). mi;). 11 08 U 10 11 13 .ICC. 34.0 05.5 11.0 Result of calculation. Mean time. Advance. Longitude. h. min. see. 9 17 36 h. min. see. 1 49 39 deg. min, nee. 98 54 07 [«43] Eneampmtnt on tfu LUtl§ Blue riwr. DETERMINATION ur LATITUDR. June 25, 1842. — Altitude of Anlaret near the meridian* Observationf. Double altitude of An- Time or chronometer. tares. dtf. mill. Mf, k. min. ttc. 45 &5 30 11 18 U3 46 03 (K) 11 19 43 46 99 50 11 96 96 46 97 30 11 97 46 46 39 90 11 30 04 Result of calculation. True altitude. Mean tine. Latitude. dtf. min. ue. 23 2H 33 deg. min. ue. 4(1 96 43 .^,. .',4^\ * „•' « ■,' ;.■ ■ i< . ,.:•>"!' ,1, ■^^^ ■5 ' i« I f—-i> "; .",?■'«?*" 109 [848] flr«< eneampment on tht riffht bank of Phut river, 1 ,970 feet above the Jtvelo/the Guif of Alcxko. DETEllMINATION OF LATITL'DE. June 26, 1842.— Altitude of Poluris. Observations. Double altitude of Po- Time of chronometer Uris. deg. min. ue. min. see. 7a 06 15 3() 50 7!l 07 lU S3 99 7«J 0!) M 95 51 7U 09 35 97 9S 7i) 10 45 30 09 7 9 90 35.5 30.0 5S.0 dc. sec. 47 4r 111 r84B] Steond tncampintnt on the right ban0o/th» PlaUi river. DRTKRMrNATION OF LONdlTUDR. June 27, 1842.— Altitude of a AquiliD. t)baervation». riRIT tBKIBI. aiCONO lERIBI. Ocublr altitude of a Aquilo!. Tim* of ohronomattr. Doubt* altitud* of • Aqukln). Time or ohronom*t*r. « 49.0 It .^7 90.0 11 M 41.5 ^, min. Me, 73 96 90 73 59 40 74 liO 00 h, mln. we. 11 59 38 19 00 59 19 03 38 Index error - + 10" Result of calculation. Mean time. h. mln. Me. 10 07 03 Longitude. dff(, mln. are. U9 37 45 DETERMINATION OF LATITUDE. June 27, 1842.— Altitude of Polaris. Observations, Double altitude of Po- Time of chronometer. larls. (Itg. wilt. nee. min. see. 78 .W 4.') 13 03 79 01 30 16 46 7'.) 04 00 90 40 79 o.--. 55 ^4 19 79 07 00 96 05 True altitude. Result of calculation. Mean time. deg. 39 nil II. 30 see. 50 Latitude. Ill I II. 98 ,VfC. 36 dfji;. 40 mill. see. 39 39 i' (I 'N ill Iff /• IV (MS] 118 TTMrrf eneamptntt^n the right hank of Phttt rivn: UCTKIIMINATION or l.tTITt'DK. JiUM 28, 1842.— AIiUikIo of Polark (MtaervatioM, Uoublv nlliltiiiu uf I'o- larM. TIruo of I'hruiiumttir. ihg. min. Iff. 'it mm. Ht, 7b 5D W) U6 Oi 7M b'J 35 07 :n 7U iiJ SU IW Ki 79 Ul 1& 10 (M 79 Ul 5U 11 Of! 7!» 03 .Kl 14 4'J 7i) 04 3i Hi 4'J 79 U5 3(1 18 Oil 7!» Oi 53 I'J II 7a UU 4U 9U su Tru« altitude. Uts;. min. hc. 3f. mil TA 'M 74 10 74 49 i-J>> ;oiiiii)ue(t utia. 115 [843] hlnrQutptntnt t»t iht /unction of the .Vorr/i ami South fnrka nf tfu VltUt« riv^r, iJiUi/ttt above th» hvti iff the tiulj nf ,1/rrico. t UKTKIiMINATlu.N U>' LOKUITI UK. July2, lS4i.-/j(ih'Halutud«. ObMrrvationa, 10 rikiT timii. •crovt ibhiri. t)lMltJ 55 Di-:'ri'.RMiN.\TiuN or longitude. July 2, 1812.— Altitude of » Aquihe. Obaervutions. riR»T «r.RiE«. ICCOVD IKRIBt. Ik"iDle altitude of a Aquilu;. Time of chronometer. 1 Double nititildo of n Aijiiilif. Time of chronometer. iif;. min. Mr. ^^ 35 40 74 10 30 74 49 30 k. min. $tc. 11 411 41 11 46 51 11 50 43 dtg, mill. I'l'. 75 36 35 7r> 18 4U 76 43 10 h. 11 11 11 min. tte. 53 03 55 06 56 18 Result of calculation • Mewi time. Advance. Longitude, h. min. itc. 9 53 58 h. min. wc 1 57 49 dtf(. miii.t \fc. 101 33 • OU [243] 116 Encampment at the junction of the North and South fork of the >^i» ■- »%i river. — Continued. DETERMINATION OF LATITUDE. July 2, 1842. — Altitude of Antarcs in the meridian. Platte Double altitude of tlie Star. dtg. min. hc. 45 44 15 Latitude. dtg. min. MC. 41 05 Ui i m DETERMINATION OF LONCilTUDE. July 3, 1842.— Altitude of the Sun. Observations. riRST SKRIEI. SCCOHO SERIES. Double altitude of the Sun's lower limb. Time of chronometer. Double altitude of the Sun's lower limb. Time of chronometer. dfg. ^nin. sec. 53 50 50 54 t>9 30 55 or> 50 55 38 2U 56 09 SO h. min. 9 08 9 09 9 11 9 13 9 14 stc. 33.0 04.5 43.5 11.0 35.3 dtg. min. .«rc. 57 06 25 57 43 05 58 15 40 58 41 40 59 11 35 h. nVm, 9 17 9 18 9 30 9 31 9 33 ,S(:C. 05.5 44.5 12.7 22.0 41.5 Result of calculation. Time did not permit us to wait at some of the most important geograpliil cal positions for favorable weatlier, and I have occasionally referred to these! the observations taken at less marked localities. By the clironometric difr lerence, the lunar distance of September 16, observed about forty miles be- low, is referred to this place. m4 0/ the Platte in. • f nee. IIES. me of chronomeler. h. Jiiin. SIC. 9 17 05.5 9 18 44.5 9 20 12.7 9 21 22.0 9 22 41.5 tude. jortant geograplii- r referred to these chronometric dil- ut forlv miles be- 117 [248] Encampment on the left bank of the South fork of Platte river. DETERMINATION OF LONOITVDE. July 4, 1842.— Altitude of the Sun. Observations, riniT iCRiif. ICCOND SERIEI- Double altitude of the Sun's lower limb. Time of chronometer. Double altitude of the Sun's lower limb. Time of chronometer. dtg. mill. see. 55 49 40 55 2' 10 54 57 10 54 30 50 54 14 50 h. min. see. 6 52 32 C 53 05 6 54 17 6 55 35 6 56 10 , dtg. min. ue. 53 54 15 53 34 00 53 30 40 53 03 30 62 44 30 h, min. sec. 6 57 05 6 57 59 6 58 35 G 59 33 7 00 11 Result of calculation. Mean time. Advance. Longitude. .-,>'< I ."^1 • .i»v>);t;^i^V|j^ .'V* . v." ■ ,'ij*> 'liiY . .. Jik_ , ,— . v^.-^r i'- n I'..l'.' i! M 1 »;1 i % '»'« i4 '!i It . i:':! [248] 118 Encampment on an island in the South fork of the Platte river, OETEHMINATION OF LATITUDE. I July 6, 1842.— Altitude of Polaris. Observations. Double altitude uf Po- laris. Time of chronometer. dtg. min. tee. 79 53 40 79 59 00 h. min. sec. 11 43 03 11 53 24 fSi ^ I Index error = + 15 ^* Bestilt of calculation », if True altitude. Mean time. Latitude. deg. min. sec. 39 57 21 /(. min. sec. 9 43 30 deg. min. sec. 40 51 17 DETERMINATI'^N" OF LONGITUDE. July 6, 1842.— Altitude of « Aquilae. ' Observations. Double altitude of a Aquils. Time of chronometer. deg. min. sec. 80 53 20 82 53 10 h. min. sec. 12 00 14 12 06 14 Result of calculation. Mean time. Advance. Longitude. h. min. sec. 9 57 31 h. min. sec. 2 05 43 deg. min. see. 103 35 04 atte river. ' ** '-1 K' }lt f sec. 17 sec. 04 119 [248] Encamjment on the South fork of Platte river. DETERMINATION OP LONGITUDE. July 7, 1842.— Altitude of « AquilBB. Observations. , ♦ .ftsr^.f. !■' -'i Double tltitude or a Time of chronometer. Aquilic. dtg, min. (3 29 sec. h. min. sec. 20 13 04 45 84 16 10 12 07 07 85 19 50 13 10 54 86 01 20 13 13 33 86 41 30 13 14 37 it m Index error = + 1^''.^ » Result of calculation. Mean time. Advance. Longitude. h. min. sec. 10 03 43 h. min. see. 2 07 17 deg. min. s«c. 1U4 02 13 DETERMINATION OF LATITUDE. July 7, 1842.— Altitude of Polaris. Observations. Double altitude of Po- • Time of chronometer. laris. "■ deg. min. sec. h. nun. sec. 79 43 40 13 IS 37 79 44 50 12 21 39 79 48 00 13 24 as 79 51 00 12 S9 54 79 53 40 12 33 19 Result of calculation True altitude. Mean time. Latitude. deg. min. sec. 39 53 11 h. min. sec. 10 IS 17 deg. min. see. 40 33 26 1?^ ^: li [«48] • 120 Encampment at St. VraMs fort, Southfork of Piatte rivcf, 6,440 feet above the level of the Cfulf of Mexico. July 11,1842.— AUiUide of lite Sun. » nRTERMINATION OF LONOITUDE. Observations. riRIT tEHIEI. SECOND lERIBI. • Double altitude of the Bijd'k lower limb. Time of chronometer. Double altitude of the 8un^s lower limb. Time of chronometer, J//f. mill. see. M 01 40 :« 34 50 ol 01 05 51 28 10 :>2 02 55 h. 9 9 9 9 9 min. IH 19 21 92 23 see. 23 52 09 13 45 deg. min. Ht. 53 OU 00 53 36 55 54 17 90 54 48 15 55 91 30 k. mill. sec. 9 96 17 9 27 53.5 9 99 40 9 31 02 9 32 80 Index error = + 15". Result of catculation. DETERMINATION OP LONGITUDE. July 12, 1842.— Altitude of the Sun. Observations. FIRST SERIEf. SECOND SERIES. Double altitude of the Sun's lower limb. Time of chronometer. Double altitude of the Sun's lower limb. Time of chronometer. tUg. min. sec. 62 33 10 Ca 27 20 63 57 90 h. min. sec. 9 51 51 9 54 13 9 55 32 9 57 45 deg. min. sec. 66 09 30 67 09 30 h. min. sec. 10 01 20 10 04 55.5 C4 48 00 Double ait Aqu (It^. mi 83 1. 84 3i «r, 6,440 /ee^ ». ic of clu'onometer. h. iiiiii. sec. 9 3K 17 9 27 53.5 9 99 40 9 31 02 9 32 90 de. sec. 13 ES. le of chronometer. nun. sec. ) 01 20 04 55.5 121 Encampment on Crow creek, DETERMINATION OP LATITUDK. July 12, 1S42 Altitude of Polnris. ObservatioM. [248] Double altitude of Po- laris. Time of chronometer. dfff. mill. 79 39 79 41 79 45 lec. 30 40 40 h. min, tec. 11 31 98 11 35 99 11 41 24 Index error = -|- 7"' . Result of calculation. True altitude. tUg. min. fee. 39 50 13 Latitude, deg. 40 intti. 43 sec. 00 DETERMINATION OF LONGITHDE. July 12, 1842.— Altitude of a Aquilee. Observations. riRST SERIES. •!i ri'W :■::■' ' " '"^ SECOND SERIES. Double altitude of a Aquilae. Time of chronometer. Double altitude of a Aquilse. Time of ciironometer. fe3 84 min. sec. 15 20 36 30 h. min, sec, 11 49 47 11 53 58 deg. min, see. »5 36 30 86 26 10 h. min, 11 57 11 59 sec. 01 36 « Result of calculation. Mean time. Advance. Longitude. />. min 9 42 see. 53 h. m 2 1 n. see. 2 12 deg. ) 105 iiin. sec. 33 27 t [248] 122 Encampment on a fork of Lodge Pole creek, 5,450 feet above the Ou/fof Mexico. DETERMINATION OP LATITUDE. July 13, 1842.— AUitude of Polaris. » Observations. Double altitude of Po- laris. Time of chronometer. deg. min. stc. 80 37 30 80 39 50 80 43 00 h. min. stc. 11 35 16 11 38 10 11 41 S4 Index error = -f- 15". Result of calculation. True altitude. Mean time. Latitude. dtg. min. stc. 40 19 13 h. min. ste. 9 28 50 dig. min. 'itc. 41 08 34 DETERMINATION OP LONGITUDE. July 13, 1842.— Altitude of a Aquilae. Observations. Double altitude of a Time of chronometer. Aquilae. dtg. min. 83 36 sec. h. min. stc. 30 11 46 45 84 31 20 11 49 06 85 05 40 11 51 32 85 41 10 11 53 14 66 34 50 11 56 01 67 18 10 11 58 05 Hesult of calculation. Mean time. min. 41 sec, 47 Advance. h. nun. sec. 10 38 Longitude. deg. min. sec. 105 13 38 • Double altil Aqul ,Ug. min 71 33 72 37 cthc Guff of Ic. 34 128 Encampment on Horse creek. DKTERMINATION OK LONCUTL'DC. July 14, 18112.— Altitude of « Aquils, Observations. [248] KIMT •cniBi. IBCOND RBRIK^. 1 iMa Double aUitudo of u Aquilx. Timu or chronometer. Double alitludo of a AqulIflB. Time of chrommeter. 1 iltg. min, nee. 71 33 00 73 37 30 'i. }nin. ue. 11 07 04 11 09 39 deg. min. Me. 73 W i% 74 16 50 h, Hiin. .i«e. ' 11 13 16 11 15 01 '• Index error = -|- 15". Result of calculation. Mean time. h. 9 mm. stc. 01 39 Advance. h. milt. stc. a 09 31 Lonjitude. dig. 104 m\n. 59 sec. 33 ude. sec. 38 DETERMINATION OK LATITUDE. July 14, 1848.— Altitude of Polaris Obsetvatiotis. Double altit ide of Po- Time of chronometer. laris. dtg, min. stc. h. min. $ec. 83 05 30 13 06 09 83 09 30 13 11 09 83 11 30 13 13 57 83 15 30 13 19 16 Result of calculation. True altitude. deg. 41 »>t(i. sec. 04 33 Mean time. Latitude. h, min. see. 10 03 10 deg. min. sec- 41 40 13 tt' [848] 124 Encampment at Ihrt Laram%9^ 4,470 /0«/ above the level of the QulfoJ Mexico. DBTKRMINATION OP LONGITUDE. , July 10, 1842.— Altitude of the Sun. Observatiotii. rmiT 1 lERIBI. IBCOKD lEBIEI. \ Double ■Itituiieofthe Time of chrooomcter. Double altitude of the Time of ehronomeler. >S'un'* lower limb. 8un'« lower limb. tUg. Tiiiii. sec. h. min. ire. dtg. min. see. h. min. ste. M 31 90 40 91.0 60 19 90 9 44 ii.S M 58 40 9 41 .13.5 CO 37 50 9 46 01.0 r>9 18 30 9 49 99.0 60 49 50 9 46 34.1 59 99 10 9 49 54.0 CO 59 90 46 59 .a 59 45 00 9 43 40.4 61 11 OU 9 47 39.5 Thermometer 81°.3. Index error « -j- 26". M tCffCMi Vf %iUt,%iUtUHUf§ i Mean time. Advance. Longitude. h. min. ste. 4 20 17 h. min. ire. 9 10 35 deg. min. ste. 105 90 13 DETERMINATION OF LONGITUDE. July 18, 1842.— Altitude of a Aquila*. Observations. riRIT SCRIES. SECOND SERIES. 1 ; Double altitude of a ^quilae. Time of chronometer. Double altitude of a AquiliB. Time of chronometer. d,g. 7!) 79 j(ii(i. see. 31 10 57 00 32 30 h. min. ste. 11 17 04.5 11 18 95.5 11 20 18.0 dtg. min. 80 55 81 94 81 47 see, 40 40 90 /i. Hiin. sec. 11 91 9» 11 93 00 11 94 10 Result of calculation. 1 Mean time. Advance. Longitude. /(. min. sec. 9 10 4G h. min. sec. 2 09 58 • • Double al Sun's Ic deg. t 40 40 41 41 41 ;/ of the Qulfoj EtIBI. \ rime of ehronomcter. h. mill. MC. 9 44 59..) 9 46 01.0 9 46 34.1 9 40 59 .a 9 47 33.5 gitude. iiH. He> 30 13 SERIES. Time of chronometer. h. tnm. s«. 11 31 3> 11 23 00 11 84 10 gituds. 125 Encampmtnt at Fhrt />rami>.— Continued. UKTRRMINATION OF I.ATITVUB. July 18, 1842.— Altitude of Polnri*. Obtervationa. [848] Double altitude of Po* Time of chronometer. larit. de/e. min. Me. mill. »r. bi 59 10 3(i 3t 83 (M) 50 39 (K) 89 U9 30 41 34 C3 04 50 43 45 83 Oti W 45 31 Thermometer, 63°. Index error, = + 26". Result of calculation. True altitude. 25.0 Thermometer, 65°. Index error, = + 25". i [843] 12G Encampment at hhrt />iramtV.— Continued. UKTRKMINAION OV LONUITVDK. July 21, 1842.— Altitudo of the Sun. Observutiona. riRIT IIMBI. 1 ■MOMD IMIBI. Doulilenltitudrorihe luwcrlinibof tlieHun Time of chronometer. Doiihlf aiti iuwvriimb dur. mi 41 9 41 4 41 5 49 49 9 iiiicorthi^ DftlittSun. n. tee, 4 ."lO 9 10 4 90 7 ;io •2 40 • Time of •lironomctrr. itg. mill. 3'J 45 40 99 40 30 40 54 41 05 90 50 30 10 00 A. 8 8 8 8 H ruin. vr. 51 93.0 5.'l 05.5 5.1 43.0 54 39.5 S3 01.0 A- min. ti 55 8 Mi H 57 8 57 H 58 lee. .'.7.0 44.0 16.4 59.. 1 34.3 ■ Thermometer, 66o. Index error = -f- 25' Result of calculation ■ Mean time. Advance. Longitiidj. 1. m\n t; 4G MC. 00 h. min. nee. !2 0^1 '-^-'^ By ihc chrcnometric difference, the lunar distance observed at Dried Meal camp is referred to this place. Doiihlf 7h 7!» 7!» hO fcO iS^ >" !. • )' mr.i. inM of flhronomclrr. *. min. ste. 8 35 .'.7.0 8 aa 44.0 H 57 16.4 8 57 59.3 H .IN 34.3 :u(lo. served at Dried I, >■ T* 127 hhicampmcMt on the Sorlh fork of Plnttt river. IIETIIRMINATION OV LONUITtDK. July 23, 1842.— Altitude of « Aquik. Obtervations, t«48) rmiT •mill. tSCOMD «BRIBt. I>()iiti|(' altltiiilr of a Aquilw. Time of chronomclrr. Double nititiido of a Aqullii). Tiinn of chronomettr. Hfg. nun. nrr. 7iH 03 30 70 a 45 70 4S 50 ^0 1 1 95 bU 33 50 h, min. nre, 10 .'.5 54.5 11 00 00.0 11 01 9-J.5 11 09 36.5 U U3 40.0 df^, mill, nre, bl .35 40 89 10 00 89 97 90 b3 07 00 k. ffiin. IN. II t^ M.O II 0^ 59 .A 11 00 SO.S 11 U 87.0 Index error = + 25". Result of cctlculatitn. Mean time. Longitude. DETERMINATION OP LATITUDE. July 23, 1842.— Altitude of Polaris. Observations. Double altitude of Po- Time of clironometer. larii. '^g- mtn. see. h. min. stc. 84 00 10 11 99 08 84 01 90 11 31 34 84 09 90 11 39 45 84 03 15 11 33 57 84 04 15 11 35 90 84 05 S5 11 36 50 84 07 90 11 38 67 84 07 35 11 40 03 84 10 00 11 43 04 84 11 50 11 45 44 f\ r: £848] 128 Enfitmpmt>nl m th Nwrthfork of Platte r/p*f —Coniinu»rf. Hnutt of caleulatiou. ,Tr)ia allituii*. M«an llm*. Uliiu I i/.-l lift Ki 130 [248] tincttmjtmtnl on tht Swrthjork ^ J'Uittt riyer-— Dried Meal ctinp, DKTKII.^INVriON OV LONiUTVDB. July '25, 1842. ~Aiii(ud« uf (he 8uii. IHtatiwiliniiB, w •WW ■ VwMNHM ittCffsro tMii« IKMibU •llliiitli' •if (ha Tlmr nrrtinmomrtitr. Dmihl* allltiHl r< of (he Tlm»of rhronimrtw Aun'a (vwnr limh. 1 Mun'a 1 lowir hmh. . -.-.,-■ -,i- _. . Af. min. m. h. miM. M(, t niin. i*t. h. min. Mr. 4a U4 00 1 U M.O 49 40 7 91 04.4 44 10 ft(l Y 17 01.0 48 87 40 7 1)1 4%.'- 47 44 M 7 17 M.S 4ii II AO 7 n 97. 47 94 40 T 11} 07.0 1 *^ M 40 7 9.1 II. «i 47 OD 00 7 90 09.0 17 4S 7 91 09.0 Therinoinftter, 87°. Ref\itl of eaieulatioH, Mran time. AdvBMa. Lon(|itutic. h. min. Mt. 6 07 44 A. ttiiit. Iff. 9 19 M rfr^. min. ur 100 94 09 -I ,. » ./ URTEItMI.VATlO.N OK LATITl'DK. i- July 23, 1842.— AUitude of Polnrk Observations. UoubU •Ititudr of To- Time of chronometer. larit. dfi. mIn. 84 Id MC, h. min. .vc. 90 19 39 84 19 9d IS 10 84 90 40 16 31 84 91 95 17 55 84 93 SO 90 53 True tltituda. Result of calculation. Mean time. *T. min. ntc. h. nnn. MC 49 09 35 9 09 5t) Latitude. dt'f, min. Sfc 49 51 35 [248] 180 Encampment at Dried Meat camp — Continued. DETKRMINATION OF LONCITUDE. I July 25, 1842.— Altitude of Arcturus. Observations. riMT SERIEI. lECOND lERIEf. Double altitude of Arcturus. Time of chronometer. Double altitude of Arcturus. Time of chronometer. ieg. min. stc. 86 16 15 85 41 9r> 85 16 40 ft. min. $rc. 11 93 43 11 25 SI 11 96 31 dfg min. sec. 84 49 30 64 13 40 83 96 50 h. min. hc. 11 97 46 11 99 97 11 31 87 Thermometer 72°.5. Result of calculation. Mean time. h. 9 mm. 14 sec. 48 Longitude. DETERMINATION OP LONGITUDE. July 25, 1842. — Distance from the second limb of the Moon to Jupiter. ,.^.. . . Observations. , ■ Time of chronometer. A, parent distance. ft. 'min. sec. rif;?. min. sec. 45 04 58 33 50 47 20 58 34 50 49 32 58 36 30 5U 55 58 37 40 52 18 56 38 95 Index error = + 15". Result of calculation. True distencc. Mean time at Green- wich. Longitude of the place. dtg. min. 58 04 stc. 42 dtg. min. ut. 1U6 26 11 d. .•^*\!^ Itl. ne of ohronomtter. fc. mill. •fe- ll 27 *6 n 39 21 11 31 37 ituile. VIoon to Jupiter. 131 [ 848 ] Encampmtnt on the North fork of tht Platte river, mouth of Deer creek DETERMINATION OF LATITUDE. July 26, 1842.— Altitude of Polaris. Observations. Double altitude of Po- Time of chronometer. laris. dtg. min. stc. mill. ttc. ' 84 33 4U 14 97 .■•v- . i 84 25 00 II 15 36 ^s I-- T 84 27 10 19 UG ^' «; 84 27 00 SO 10 \\» '' 84 99 00 33 11 84 30 10 33 57 84 33 50 38 Of! 84 34 20 89 33 84 34 50 30 39 • b4 37 00 33 33 * Index error = + 15". _. Result of calculation. True altitude. Mean time. Latitude. lieg, mi'i. sec. /t. mi n. sec. dtg. mill. sec. 42 14 16 9 11 9 03 43 52 24 51 ^•1."' if'JTf'i*'* '. i -is - 'T.-<-'^*; .-,1 •■ .I'j ' ot the place. lin. ««• 26 11 * :<•: P* G* • . 1 ei- it 11 'ff^ '.:'> V i.r \?f. S»* te-. r'.»2 i^'l jfj- . .'U- 1?« m_. ^ I-. [S48] 132 ISncanyjmicnt at /Ac mouth of Deer creek — Continued^ UBTERMINATION OF LONOITUDE. July 26, 1842.— Altitude of the Sim. Observatiotis. Double altitude of the Time of chronometer. lower limb of the Sun. de^. min. see. A. min. see. 46 47 45 7 SI 03.0 46 31 40 7 31 45.5 Ititerruptcd by clouds. 45 37 15 7 24 14.5 45 32 10 7 24 56.6 45 01 10 7 35 54.0 44 37 30 7 27 00.0 Thermometer, 83°. Result of calculation. Meantime. 5 «9 see. 54 Longitude. deg. 106 mtii. 43 see. 15 DETERMINATION OF LONGITUDE. July 26, 1842.— Aliiuide of Arcturus. Observatiotis. - . . VIKtT SERIES. SGCOKD SERIES. DoidUralinii&eor Aw9«EW>. Time of chronometer. Double altitude of Arcturus. Time of chronometer. m <2» Ji» •SB ~a i% -a 3i 2i h. 11 11 11 »«iii. 36 38 39 see. 13 20 deg. min. sec. 7» 13 30 78 52 00 1 78 32 30 6. mm. sec. 11 40 16.-5 11 41 17.0 11 42 11.0 Thennoineter, TF. ResuU of calculation. Mean time. Advance. Longitude. A, rot*, .we. 9 26 06 k. min. %te. 3 13 34 45 44 1 44 i 44 .1 44 1 133 [sa] uedk Encampment on the North fork of Platte river^ Upper Oaekt DETRRMINATION 9F LONGITUDE. July 28, 1842.— Altitude of the Sun, Observations. riRiT SERIta. 1 IBCONB MKIK.*. Double altitude of the lower limb of the Sun. Time of chronometer. Double altitude of the lower linobor the Sun. ler. lifg. min. Hc. 45 13 55 44 56 10 44 45 35 44 30 3U 44 15 30 1 * min. 85 96 96 37 37 ste. 21.5 OS 1 36.2 17.5 I 58.6 1 dig. min. ste. 43 46 20 43 35 3S 43 17 15 43 05 05 43 51 40 k. T 7 T 7 39 99 30 31 31 ue. 17.1 48 37 11 47.7 Thermometer 80°.5. Index error = -}- 12". Result of calculation. tudo. II. Mf.. I 15 ftlean time. . Advance. longitude. h. min. ste, 5 13 37 h. min, sec, 2 15 09 deg. min, tec, 1U7 1& 5» ERIES. ime of chronometer. h. min. set. 11 40 le..') 11 41 17.0 n 42 ll.O DETERMINATION OP LATITUDE. July 28, 1842.— Ahitude of Polaris. Observations. Double altitude of Po- Time of chronometer. laris. deg. min. ste. A. min. see. 84 31 30 24 10 84 32 45 95 45 84 35 10 27 55 84 35 30 U9 13 84 36 35 30 34 84 38 10 31 50 84 39 55 33 25 84 40 00 34 43; 84 40 35 35 55 84 43 15 37 24 a jitude. Result of calculation • True altitude. Mean time. Latitude. deg. min. sic. 43 17 54 h, min. sec. 9 15 59 dtg. min. see. 42 50 53 [248] '.!» >» 134 Encampment on the North fork of Platte river. DETERMINATION OF LATITUDE. July 29, 1842.— Altitude of Polaris. ■« - Observations. Double altitude of To- Time of clironoineter. laris. deg. >nin. sec. h. min. sec. 83 53 40 11 OS 00 83 57 10 11 07 47 83 57 30 11 09 10 83 59 45 11 13 14 84 00 40 11 14 16 84 U3 00 11 16 00 84 04 10 11 13 SI 84 05 00 11 SO 05 84 06 4U 11 SI 4-2 84 08 10 11 S3 05 TiieriTiometer, 60*^. Index error = -|- 12". Result of calculation. True altitude. Mean time. deg. min. sec. Ai 00 01 /(. min. sec. 8 58 53 ft Latitude. deg. min. sec. 42 38 01 ii i '. ■ft ,'-^ . '. '. . ^ ;• 'i^. (■* c '■i-: it (.*;■; «.*' i^ i'fe H \*. •; ■ fi'' »)). fi. -1 lit ■.v>^ljJ.>i'/'v.V %S f(»r ff, i^^,'« *• n de. sec. OL 185 Encampment on the North fork of Platte river. DETERMINATION OP LONOITUnE. - July 29, 1S42 Altitude of a Aquila?. Observations. [248] Double altitude of a Aquila. Time of ohronometer- dtif. min. stc. h. min. stt. 81 39 00 10 47 19 83 04 5'J lU 49 11 83 35 30 10 50 50.5 Result of calculation. ^ - Mean time. Adrance, LorgUude. ti k. min. sic. 8 33 13 h. min. sec. 3 15 54 it min. sec, 99 06 DETE RMINATION OP LONGl [TUDE. "1 « -sit* July 29, 1842.— Altitude of Arcturug. Observations. Double altitude of Arctu- Time of chronometer. rus. deg. min. see. h. min. sec. 91 57 30 10 55 43 91 17 50 10 57 33.7 90 44 10 10 59 05 Result of calculation. Mean time. h. min. see. 8 41 30 Adrance. h. min. sec. 2 15 57 Longitude. ;; I [243] 186 GOAT ISLAND, ice. Favorable weather eimbled us to obseive here an occuhation of i Arietiv, vihkU occurred ai the moon's bright hmb, at 0/t. 05' 40" of the 3l8t of July < civil tiiDe). In order ilial il might be calculated with the advantage of cor- respondent observations, and the correction of the errors of the tables, the observation was sent to Mr. S. C. Walkbr, at Philadelphia. The follow- ing is the result from Mr. Walker's computation, without any correction for errors of the tables. July 30, 1642 — astronomical time. ^ f df a h c Im. • Arietis I2h o' 4^' — TAIO' 32"M + 1.896 + 1.611 + 2.488. By the estimated difference of longitude, thirty two seconds (32"), the lunar distance observed at the mouth of the Sweet Water on the 23d of Au- gust, IS referred to this place, for the longitude of which we have adopted the mean from chronometer, lunar distance, and occultation, resulting as follows: Longitude of Goat island, by hmar distance, Longitude of Goat island, by chronometer. Longitude of Goat island, by occultation, A. imn. Mt. 7 10 07.91 7 10 51.66 7 10 32.01 IC!- Mean longitude of Goat island, =z 7 10 30.53 Some of the observations made at this place were lost in the accident in ihe Platte river, on the 24(h of August. ^,. il.-. V A I) • i M-Hsi'.S'vS.p ' > ' T;vi • >!;' .^ :^-^^' l-v }n of I Arietir, e 3l8t of July vantage of cor- he tables, the The foUow- ' correction for ,1 + 2.488. nds (32"), the the 23d of Au- have adopted )n, resulting as set. 07.91 51.66 32.01 30.53 he accident in 187 [249} Encampment on Ooat islantf, North fork of thr. Platte river. nKTKRM I NATION OF LATITUDE. July 30, 1842 — Altitude of the Sun in the meridian. Double altitude of the tjuii't lower limb. ekg. mill. see. 131 !M 30 True central tllitude. dfi;. min. nr, 65 56 hi Latitude. def(. min. Mr. 33 Ul Index error ' -+- 12". nETKRMINATION OF LONOlTUnR. July 31, 1842.— Altitude of a Aquilip. Ob.fervation.9. Double a' ide of a A(|uila>. d-i;. min. sec. 99 51 .50 99 U9 30 08 45 50 Time of chronometer. h. 3 3 3 min. see. 01 02 04 02 05 42 Result of calculation. ftlcan time. A, tmii. 4G see. 59 Advance. It. a tutu. 16 Mr. 36 Longitude. DETERMINATION OP LONGITUDE. u^c. ' «. .J, July 31, 1842. — Altitude of a Aurigte. Observations. Double altitude of a Auriga;. itef;. min. sec. 48 38 20 Time of chronometer. h. min. see. 4 13 40 '- --a: l«'-»K .«?,» Ih ^ Br i»d «•; ca- Vf «r3 (! •ii « Result of calculation. Mean time. Advance. TiOngitude. h. min. see. 1 57 09 h. min. see. 2 IG 31 deg. mih. sec r-r ■ [248] 188 Encampment on the Sweet Water rher, one mile behnr Rock /ndependetiee, DICTKnMINATION OF LATITLDK. August 1, 1842.— Altitude or Pularii. ObaervatiouB, Double Bllitudo of Vty- Time of cliranomcler. luris. dig. miti. MC, h. min. let. 84 04 20 11 29 33 84 05 50 11 31 12 84 05 UO 11 32 15 84 07 50 11 33 4'J 84 09 00 11 35 20 84 10 00 11 36 37 84 11 40 11 38 18 84 13 00 11 39 30 84 13 11) 11 40 48 84 14 UU 11 42 14 Tliermometer 47°. Result of calculation. True altitude. deg, 42 mm. 03 see, 54 Latitude. deg. i/iin. stc, 42 29 56 Index error = -f- 12". DETERMINATION OP LONGITUDE. August 1, 1842. — Altitude of Arciurus. Observations, li %; riRIT BERIBS. SEC OKU lERIKS. Double altitude of Arcturus. Time of chronometer. Double altitude of Arcturus. Time of chronometer. deg. »nin. see. 66 41 00 66 16 20 65 50 30 65 24 10 64 49 20 h. min. 11 54 11 56 . 11 57 U 58 11 59 see. 55.0 03.0 10.0 19.5 55.5 deg, min. tte. 64 00 00 63 22 50 62 46 30 62 14 10 61 48 50 h. 12 12 12 12 12 mill. sec. 02 10.0 03 52.0 05 29.6 06 57.0 08 06.0 Result of calculation » Mean time. Advance. Longitude. h. min. sec, 9 44 UO h, min, sec. 2 17 18 deg, min. sec . 107 55 00 Indtpendence, \t. see. 56 tits. me of chronometer. h. min. 12 02 12 03 12 05 12 06 12 08 nee. 10.0 59.0 29.6 57.0 06.0 » tudc. n. jwc . > 00 Mk 180 Jsttteampment on the Sicett Water river. DBTRRMIN'ATION or LATITt'DR. Augu9( 5, 1842 Attitude of Polarii. Oh,iervations. [iM8] Double altitude of Po- Time of chronometer. larii. dtg, min. 88 00 tre. h. min. i>«. 30 5 lii 55 88 03 20 5 99 15 88 U9 00 5 93 39 88 09 40 5 86 01 88 03 .iO 5 97 39 Thermometer, 67°. Index error = + 25". Result of calculation. True altitude. Mean time. Latitude. itf(. min. ue. 44 00 35 h, min. Ht. 3 09 49 dig. min. Me. 42 32 31 DETERMINATION OP LONCilTCfOE. August 6, 1842. — Altitude of « Lyroe. , Observations. Double altitude of a Lyrae. Time of chronometer. deg. min. 67 3d 66 58 66 35 see. 30 40 30 h. 5 5 5 min. iee. 04 26.0 06 21.5 07 32.0 Sky very misty. — Observation indifferent. Result of ccUculation. Mean time. Advance. Longitude. h. min. Me. 2 45 14 h. min. see. 2 90 53 • .1^. [«48] 140 Kwainprntnt irn th§ Swt»t Wattr rJMr— Continued. r)ICTKR.MrN.»TIOJ» OK LONdlTDUR. August 7, 1642.— All iiude of Arcturut. lUiervatimif. Double •Ititiidir of Arcturu*. Time of chr«)nomcler. tirf(. mill. 61 46 :.0 49 49 o4 wr, 90 30 30 a 19 19 mifi. —«. 18 ()9 90 ri6 93 u4 McM time. Index error - -f- 25". Result of calculation, .^llvanco. mtn. 47 $tt. 01 Longitude. 1U9 mill. &1 99 Double I Hun't I DETERMINATION OF LATITUDE. August 7, 1642.— Altitude of Polaris. Observations. Double altitude of Time of chronometer. Polaris. dtp;. mitt. ttf. k. min. >te. 64 59 25 19 30 38 85 00 00 19 39 19 85 01 90 19 33 95 85 09 30 19 34 57 85 03 90 19 3G 91 85 05 00 19 37 48 Thermometer 36°. Result of ealciUation. True altitude. dtg. win. stc, 48 30 18 Latitude. dtg. min, «l Hi (t:i 4H 3U 10 A4 .13 ■'j t- - '. ' 8:i rio 9U 10 an 14 H.-i M 4U 10 :,ft (IN 83 5*4 fiU 10 AD .M 83 53 9ft 11 01 08 t ' S' tifxuU of calculation. (*»S ■«'»'". True kltitudc. M«M tiBM. latitude. d(f. min. »»<. h. min. m. dfg. min. Me, 41 &9 00 8 97 54 4'i 27 34 !f I, 11 ',/ -i ( f J I • • ' i ■ 4. .../i ; ^.t t . .-1 J . •,. !.♦• * ' * ^ f -'J .« } » * * *1 ^, i -t L. 1 t,;i »" i " . M ( i I'i- ( ■?»■ «'« '-' '^, UM iTf I'f -wS' ':^ i M I? ■ ' : .'C i .,*w- Double a Arcti **r. m 68 3, (i8 Oi C7 8- _ 0-. »» il 1%. •.* udc. Me. 34 1 1 14.1 Bmttmpmtnt §n tkt t\rat Saw fork, nKTKNMI.VATION 01* L.tTlTt'HK. Kw'iwti 0, lNt9.~.AIliui(l« of Pnlnrii. t«48) Duui)l« nlltluUi 'of 1^ Tim. i>r cliromimrlvr. iwrl*> •(rr- mi*. mr. M^ Wf. ti4 fW ») 10 n (*l 34 4U 19 i» |i| 3A 30 1.1 4.1 •4 35 50 14 57 K 37 30 iU .1 30 00 17 rt (ft 3f» 10 l!l 0<) 1)4 41) uu 91) 94 1)4 40 54) 91 51 04 4J 30 93 «:» Ind»?x error — 4" 85". Rvmilt nf cnlntlniion. True alliliulo. Meuii limr l.al*tu 10. dtp;, mm. ue. i-U 1« U h. min. Hf. 8 51 00 JfX. min. He. i'i 4J s6 dktkhminatiov ok i.onciitudk. Aiiguat 9, 1842. — Alliiude of Arcluriu. Ohsrrvationit. VWIT (ERIII. IICOND »CKUl. Double altitude of Arcturui. Time of rhmnonicter. ' l)(iulilr au.. iiifl of Arcturu*. Tinvc of chronometer. ^g. min. ue. 68 33 40 tie 09 95 C7 97 go h. 11 11 11 min. ue. 9fl 37 98 04 99 41 rf ■ min. »te, 'A 37 35 65 56 15 65 14 00 h. 11 11 11 miu. aw. 31 54.0 33 48.0 35 40.5 Thermometer, 44°. Result of calculation. Meao time. Advance. Longitude. h. min. mc. 9 05 15 h. min. tee. 9 95 49 deg, min. ite, 110 99 17 [ S48 ] 144 ■i| ! Enca$nptMnt at Mountain la/ccy 7,200 /cc/ above the fere/ of the Ovlf^ Mexico. DETERMINATION OF LATITfUK. \ August 10, 1842.— AhiUiiie of Polark Observations. - T" Double altitude of Po- laris. Time of chronometer. 1 84 84 84 84 mil}. 55 55 57 5S nie. 90 50 30 00 A. niin 11 ir> H 17 11 18 11 19 me. 55 00 28 56 Index enor Ifcsiilt of = — 12' calculation True altitude. — • Mean time. Latitude. 41^. min. sir. Hi S7 95 *. wiin. set. 8 51 42 >l. V.U ■ t tn ■,M < it ' iV? ^.■■;v»« ^'2 / of the Outf^f lu«le. rn. we. 08 145 Encampment at Mountain lake — Continued. DRTERMINATION OF LATITUDE. August 11, 1842.— Altitude of Polaris. Observations. [«4»] i<^ • '• .V •tfc ». ■ •. - • ' * <% Sa Pouble altitude of Po- Time of chroDometer. laris. %• m(«..■«»■? Mean time. Retard. Longitude. August 17, 1S42. — Altitude of the Sun in the meridian. Observations. -fan t»t '■'• ' ' ■■v'^7' '' i** '■ - "U/. >*• fc-i. Double altitude of the SuD'a lower limb. True central altitude. Latitude. dw. min. see. 130 38 15 d^. min. ue. 60 34 33 deg. min. «c. 43 49 24 <■ ^.^^:"il fc s^Ji ..if. » ^ »•'»*,♦* - Hi- i f i \ k < ■ k [243] 148 Encampment on the Stteet Water river. DETERMINATIQN OF LATITUDE. August 19, 1842.— Altitude of Polaris. Obacrvatimts. t« s*' I Double allitudo of Po- Time of chronometer. larU. dejf. min. sec. h. min. sec. 83 55 30 6 54 33 83 56 50 6 56 06 83 58 20 6 58 02 84 00 00 7 00 09 84 02 10 7 02 28 Index error = — 36". Result of calculation. i< True altitude. Mean time. Latitude. deg. min. see. 41 58 07 h, min. see. 8 12 41 deg, min. sec. 42 22 2i2 DETERMINATION OF TIME. August 19, 1812. — Altitude of Arcturus. Observations. PIRIT SERIES. •■ iifi'": "^ ■ ' ' •" RLCOVD SERIE". Double altitude of Arc- turus. Time of chronometer. Double altitude of Arc- turus. Time of chroQooMter. (ill 6.5 min. sec. :>i 10 33 35 01 40 h. min. sec. 7 12 03.5 7 15 30.0 7 16 57.5 den;, min. see. 64 15 10 63 39 23 63 15 50 h. min. sec. 1 19 03.0 7 2i) 37.5 7 21 41.0 Result of calculation. ... ..t., 149 Encampment on the Sweet Water river — Continued. DETERMINATION OF TIMS. August 20, 1842.— Altitude of Arcturus. enervations. [«48| W 1* I.' ide. >. ve. 8*J riRiT tBiuet. IBCOMO tERIEI Double altitude of Arc- turut. Time of chronometer. Double altitude of the Sun's lower limb. Time of chronometer. dig. min. see. 53 58 00 53 19 20 51 17 40 50 36 30 49 53 40 h. min. sec. 7 40 46 7 45 13 7 47 59 7 49 51.5 7 51 47 dfg. min. $tc. 48 59 30 48 38 50 47 47 00 47 17 30 4C 08 40 8 min. ste. 54 15 55 38.5 57 34 58 53.6 02 03 Index error = — 40". Result of calculation. RIC!. imc of chroooBMlFr. Ii. min. set. 1 19 03.0 7 Srt 37.5 7 21 41.0 tuds DETERMINATION OP L.\T1TUDE. * « August 20, 1842.— Altitude of Polaris. Observations. Double altitude of Po- Time of chronometer. laris. dtg. min. sec. h. min. HC. 85 26 00 8 17 06 85 26 30 8 18 52 85 27 53 8 20 47 85 31 40 8 24 56 8S 32 00 8 26 32 85 33 55 8 27 50 85 34 40 8 39 18 85 36 15 8 31 19 85 37 30 8 32 44 85 38 50 8 34 39 Result of calculation • True altitude. Mean time. Latitude. lieg. min, stc, 43 45 05 k. min. sec. 9 43 02 dtg. min. sec. 42 31 46 ^k m [848] 150 Eneamptnent on the Big Blue riv«rt DETERMINATION' OF LONOITUDE. June 21, 1842.— Altitude of (he Sun. Observations. rinsT iiHiB*. IBCOKO ICRIBI. Double altitudo of lite lower limb or the Sun Time of chronometer. Double altitude of the lower limbof the Sun. Time of chronometer. dtx- wiiii. sfc. 43 09 40 43 36 40 43 51 101 . 43 03 40 43 26 30 h. 8 8 8 8 8 Hlitl. SO 31 23 22 23 MC. 15.0 27.0 04.5 54.0 40.0 dtg. mill. Btc. 43 44 30 43 58 00 44 12 45 44 29 10 44 46 00 h. 8 8 8 8 8 tnin. we. 24 39.5 95 03.0 95 44.3 26 97.0 27 19.0 Index error, = — 42'. Result of calculation. Mean time. nun. sec. 40 27 Advance. h, niin. sec. 1 43 28 Longitude. deg. min. see. 97 06 53 i^. V- t;.- iti ^iK -r, nS'i ^ '% ■' ■ V*i. RIKI. ime of chronometer. h. tiiin. 8 94 8 95 8 S5 8 96 8 97 we. 29.5 03.0 44.3 97.0 19.0 151 Ai .■- A . ..^ . ^ Noon haWon the Swett Water river. [24»] UETEnMINATIOK OP LATITUDE. August 22, 1842. — Altitude of the Sun in the merididn. Obaervations. Double altitude of the Bun't lower limb. deg. min. we. lid U8 U5 Latitude. mm. Me. 96 16 Index error = — 40". Encampment on the Sweet Water river (Rock Independence). DETERMINATION OF LATITUDE. August 22, 1842.— AUitude of Polaris. ' ' ' Observations. """'' "^' Double altitude of Po- Time of chronometer. laris. deg. min. see. h. min. see. 84 19 30 6 47 37 84 90 50 n 50 15 84 99 10 6 51 37 84 93 30 6 59 50 84 94 15 6 54 40 84 25 40 6 56 34 84 97 45 6 57 49 84 28 40 6 59 15 84 99 10 7 00 24 84 30 10 7 01 41 Result of calculation • True altitude. Mean time. Latitude. deg. min. see. 42 11 30 h. min. see. 8 16 33 deg. min. see. 42 29 36 [248] 152 Encampment on tht Sweit Wattr, at Hock Indepcndence—Coniinwed. DETKAMINATION OP TIMB. Augiut 22, 1842.— AliituUo of Arciurus. ^ * Obtervations, riRiT IIRIII. IBCONO (■Mil. Double altitude of Arcturin. Time of chronometer. Double altitude of Arcturu*. Time of ehroDomcter. dif. mitt. wc. 61 39 50 60 58 95 tiO 28 90 59 45 50 59 17 00 h. mill. Me. 7 07 49.0 7 Of) 14.6 7 10 35.0 ; 19 30.5 7 13 49.3 dig, mln. stc. 58 06 10 57 99 00 56 48 50 55 47 40 55 18 30 ■ h. min. itc. 7 17 00.0 7 18 59.5 7 90 30.0 7 93 15.0 7 94 34.3 Index error = — 22''. Result of calculation. Mean time. 8 nun. 37 see, 06 Longitude. DETERMINATION OF TIME. August 23, 1S42.— Altitude of the Sun. Observations. FIRST SCRICS. (ECOND SERIEI. Double altitude of the lower limb of the Sun. Time of chronometer. Double altitude of the lower limb of the Sun. Time of chronometer. dtg. min. see. 39 18 35 39 34 10 39 40 30 33 00 30 33 15 90 h. 5 5 5 .5 5 min. 98 98 29 30 30 stc. 06 48.7 33 00 40 deg. min. sec. 33 33 50 33 48 :)5 33 58 95 34 08 30 34 35 30 h. 5 5 5 5 5 min. 31 39 32 33 34 !te. 36 10 37 05 18.5 —Continued. lilt. m« Qf ehroaomeUr. . min. ne. 17 00.0 16 59. S 90 30.0 93 15.0 94 34.3 ude. IIEI. me of chronometer. ft. min. ftC. 5 31 36 5 32 10 5 32 37 5 33 05 5 34 18.5 158 [«4«J ^neampment on Sortkfwk of Platte riwr, moyth of Sicoti Water river. DRTKRMINATION OF TIMK. August 23, 1842.--AUitude of the Sun. Observations. rmiT iiMii. 1 IKCONU ICRIKI. Dcubic kltitiidr nf the HuD'i lower iimb. Time of chroDometer. Double aUiludc of the 8un'i lower limb. Time o' chronometer. tkX, iniu. stf. 44 il 05 43 55 50 43 4;< :nnk of tht \orth fort: tf tk^ PMte riwr. IIKIKHMINATION Of LATITVOK. Septombor 4, 1812.- Altitude of • Aqnilon in the meridian. Ob.serwttiotu. Double altilmle of u Ai|uilw. Truafthit'ida. Udludw. dtg. min. %ff. 113 W 80 dta m\n. we i dig. min. Ht, 50 an M 41 54 34 Index error, = — I' 30". Encampment on the right bank of the North fork of Platte river f Jive mites above Chimney Hock. DETERMINATION OK LATITl'DK. September 5, 1842.— Altitude of Polaris. • Observations. . Double altit ido of Po- Time of chronometer' laris dtg. mill. ate. A. m«ultlc altitude of Pu> Tim* of chronontlar. Iftrtt. • J?- wHit. Hf. k. mitt. ue. 4'J uo II 10 JO 8 41 10 II IH M 44 &0 II 41 07 » 4i 30 II 93 'JO B 4C f4) II 'H 57 M 4« iU II 86 5U w 49 SO II •W 30 •s 5U (10 II .10 II «• 61 40 II 31 41 63 A3 40 11 33 m Thermomeler, 70° .3. Index error = — 1' 32". ReauU of calculation. rf. a: .True altitud*. Mean time. Latitude. dtf. mill. ut. 41 50 57 h. min. ire. 9 19 51 dig. min. $tc. 41 \6 19 September 8, 1842.— Altitude of a Aquiloj in the mcriditu. Observatiotis. Double altitude of a Tnie rentral altitude. \(juilx. dtg. min. ne. 114 35 10 dfg. mill. iie. 57 11 15 Latitude. dtg. min. fee. 41 16 19 V. « s^'". »^ 157 [ U% ] DKTBMMIIKATION OV LATItlDK. a ticptom^jcr 9, 1819.— Aliitudsof l*olaru. (Jburvatwu. Doiibla ■Itlliida of r«>> — -^^ ^^«« Tlm« of e|irofl4a«ltr. Imi*. 83 3« ut. k. mtn. ttf Ai 11 13 Stf 83 3fl 10 II 16 S-J H3 4*1 W II 9l> 01 83 43 'JU II 83 II H3 46 UA 11 it: 33 ,l»t'.' i< Indox error =: — T 32". tietvit of calculation. Tnn mltitud«. 4n~ Min. iir. 41 M 48 Utilinh 41 14 44 19 rridiao. 9, 1842.— Altitude of the Sun in the meridian. ObsTvatiow. e alUmde of ih« «a'i loarer limb. aip 3 n. Mr. 3t{ 80 Latitude. % milt. 14 17 Thermometer, 94°. tte. 1» ■ ' It ■' I?' 1: [248] 158 Ematnpimnt tit the Junction of the North and South forks of the Platte^ 2,700 feet above the Gulf of Mexico. UETEUMINATION OP LATITUDE. September 12, 1842. — Altitude of a Aquilec in (he meridinn. Observations. Double altitude of n At|uilae. dtg. mill, see, 114 48 50 True central altitude. Latitude. deg, min. sec. 57 23 09 deg. min. see. 41 04 S26 Index error = — 1' 20". DETERJIINATION OP LATF UDE. Sep'enibev 13, 1S42. — Altitude of the Sun in the meridian. Double altitude of the Sud's lower limb. ;True central altitude. Latitude. . dig. min. sec. 104 51 35 deg. min. sec. 52 40 22 deg. min, sec, 41 05 07 Thermometer 70^. Enca Double a Sun's : 8 36 159 [248] of the Platte, Encampment at the junction of the North and South forks of the PUUto river — Coniinued. sridinn. DETERMINATION OF LATITUDE. '*'* September 13, 1842.— Altitude of the Sun. Observations. see. 26 ridian> 'Double altitude of the lower limb of the Sun. Time of chronometer. dig. min. ste. min. sec. IU4 42 20 46 17 104 45 25 48 16 104 49 00 51 13 104 50 10 53 23 104 50 35 54 40 104 51 25 56 37 104 51 10 58 49 104 50 20 59 35 104 49 45 2 01 03 104 48 20 2 02 35 104 47 28 2 03 17 104 45 UO 2 05 16 104 43 50 3 06 03 104 43 05 2 06 60 104 41 45 3 07 29 I sec. 07 DETERMINATION OF TIME. September 14, 1842.— Altitude of the Sun. '*" ' Observations. FIRST SERIES. SECON-B SERIES. Double altitude of the Sun's lower limb. Time of c'urouoineter. Double altitude of the Sun's lower limb. Time of chronometer. 4^. min. see, 37 23 10 37 04 10 36 50 30 36 36 40 36 33 30 h. 6 6 6 6 6 min. 26 27 27 28 29 sec. 22.5 14.3 53.5 30.5 08.3 deg. min. sec. 36 11 20 35 57 05 35 43 40 Interrupted h. min. uc. 6 39 40.4 6 30 18.5 6 30 56.0 by clouds. Thermometer, 60°. Result of cmlculation. Mean time. h. nun. 4 28 ste. 40 Longitude. 1248] 'I Noon Itali on the lefr hnnk tt^ the Plattf. DETERMINATION KfV LATITI DK. September 10, 1843. — Altitude of the Sun in the meridian. Observations. Double altitude of the Su(>'« lower limb. True central altitude. latitude. dtf. mid. icr. 1(W 54 IS rfiiiii. 5f) OS sale. 40 40 10 /i. mill. sec. !> 17 24.5 9 22 18.3 !) 25 26.5 4tj 4(> 45 min. sec. 55 50 02 )5 10 20 h. 9 9 9 mill. viT. 2S 12. -.J 30 35 32 51.5 Result of calculation. Mean time. Advance. Longitude. h. min. see. 7 27 27 h. min. sec. 1 5d 41 w £243] 162 Encampment on the left bank of Platte river — Continued. DETKRMINATION OP LONGITUDE. September 16, 1842.— Distance from the first limb of the moon to Jupiter, Observations. * (With the circle.) y — 1 Time trf cnronomcter. Apparent distance. ^ h. n 9 : in. 6 •^ 6 >2 .8 )3 )G 4 8 21 25 28 JO 13 15 17 to »2 15 ue. 57 34 36 19 51 40 44 '^1 28 19 57 49 13 li 56 45 54 25 3T 11 (kg. mill. sec. 9 -I '",... "..'"* 9 -1 9 : » 9 ; •••• 10 ( •••••••••••••••••••• 10 ( !•••*••••••••••**•••• 10 1 10 r *** ' 10 ] 10 '. 10 10 1 10 ; 10 ; 10 . 10 1. !....!!'. '.'.'.'. li.., 10 1 10 1 10 1 837 45 50 Tliermon Result of icter, 55°.o. calculation. True distance. Mean time at Greenwich. Longitude. lies. »»'"• >ec. 42 07 42 h. V 14 in. !Kc. 'ie 30 dtg. min. sec. lUO 23 45 163 [243] nued. on to Jupiter. -V'- Encampment on the left bmnic of Platte river— Conunuei], DETKRMINATION OF TIME. September 17, 1842. — Altitude of Arcturua. Observations. kudc- |i. sec. 45 riRiT SERIES. 1 ICCOND SERIB*. Doublf altitude i>f An-turus. Time of chronometer. L)3uble altitude of Arnlurus. Time of clironoDieter. dfK. 37 '(5 ;t4 inin. yrc. 10 40 ■26 4;) Ati 4r, h. 9 9 9 min. 4M 53 55 •rr. 5(i 30.5 15 3t 33 33 wiiu. 02 08 25 ... . ^ tec. 15 50 20 /.. 9 9 10 fiitn. 57 59 01 sec. 23.7 46 44 Result nf cakulat ion. Mean time. Advance. Longitude. > • ^1. min 7 58 41 h. ruin, fee, 1 57 25 DETKRMINATION OP LATITUDE. September 17, 1842. — Aliiiude of Polaris. Observations. Double altitude of Po- Time of ciironomeier. laris. lUg. min. wc. [A. nun. r,ec. 8i 14 00 10 14 3G 82 16 10 10 IG 37 82 17 40 JO 19 35 82 19 50 10 21 55 82 21 45 10 25 12 82 24 45 10 27 50 82 27 25 10 31 48 82 30 00 10 34 51 32 34 50 10 40 50 82 39 50 10 47 44 Thermometer 55°. Index error =—]/ 18". Result of calculation. True altitude. deg. 41 mm. 10 sec. 36 Latitude. dcg. mill. ,«fe. 40 4-4 'M [ 248 ] 164 Noon halt nf September 18, on the left hank of the Platte river. DETERMINATION OF LATITinE. September 18, 1842.— Altitude of the Sun in the uicridinti. Obscrvatious. Doulilc altitudt Sun's lower i of the iinib. True cciitrul altitude, Latitude. dtg. min. lUl 49 sec. 50 df^. min. sec. 61 09 29 deif. mm. ntc. 40 40 21 Index error = — I' 32". Tliermonicter, 90^. i 1 I 4'i; 4i Noon halt of September 19, on the left bank (f the Platte river. DETERMINATION OP LATITUDE. September 19, 1842. — Altitude of (he Sun in the meridian. Observations. [ Double altitude of the Sun's lower limb. True central altitude. Latitude. ite^. min. sec. 101 04 30 (/f?. mill. sec. 50 4(1 49 df». mi PI. lec. 41) 39 44 Index error = — 1' 32". Tlt.Mmometer, 80°. NdQH li9it of 'Stptember 20, on the Iff I Lank of the Platte ruer DETERMINATION OF LATITUDE. Sepien.ber 20, 1842.— Aliiuide of the Sun in the meridian. Observations. Double altitude of the Sun's lower limb. T rue central altitude. Latitude. dtg. min. sec. 100 UO 4.5 des;. min. sec. 5« 14 56 deg. 40 min. 4S sec. 19 Ir Tl . error = — I' 3 lermomeier, 77^. 2". tp river. ridinn. Me. 31 2tlc river. eridifin. -IT. 44 Uittc riier leridian. idL'. in. sec. J8 ID 165 Encampment on the left bank of Platte river. < DETEIIMINATION OF TIMR. ' September 20, 1842.— Altitude of Arctutus. Observations. Double altitude of ArcturuD. dtg, min. »tc, m 39 &U Time of clironometer. h. mill. tte. 9 U4 31 Index error = — 1' 32". DETRRMINATION OP LATITUDE. September 20, 1842.— Altitude of Polaris. Observations. Double altitude of Po- Time of chronometer. laris. dtg. min. 8§ 05 sec. h. min. MC. 10 9 19 49 83 08 30 9 34 03 fe3 15 15 9 31 51 83 17 50 9 36 39 83 30 40 9 39 35 Thermometer, 66°. Result of calculation. 7'rue altitude. h. 41 mm. 04 sec. 54 Latitude. [243] i . 40 min. 54 KC. 02 [343] 166 Encampment on the left hunk of IHnttc river, ten mild Mow (Sranii isiant/. ■ * DKTKRMINATION OF TIME. September 21, IS42.— Aliiiude of Arcturus. Observations. riKiT naKiBi. 1 lECOKD >KKte« Uoultio altitude of Arcturus. Timei >f chronometer. Double altitude of Arcturui. Time of chronometer. Jf^, mi/i. Mf. 50 03 55 1'J 15 30 4S 01 50 h. 8 8 9 min. ,vr. 5.'> 09.5 57 16.7 00 34.0 1 dr3(. mIn. MtK 47 05 95 46 16 5S , 43 3fi 50 h. 9 9 9 mill. 'te- 03 03.7 05 15.0 07 Ol.O Result of calculation. Mean timx?. Adrancc. dt^. yn\n. sec. 7 07 54 longitude. mill. 53 90 DETERMIN:*TIO\ OF LATITIDE. September 21, 1S42.— Aliitutlc of Polaris. ' Observations. Double altitude of Pcv Time of chronometer laris. de?. miu. aejc. h. min. S'C. S-2 25 .-50 9 10 56 8-i 27 45 9 12 51 82 29 20 9 15 43 83 31 40 9 18 07 89 34 00 9 20 51 89 35 15 9 S3 30 89 37 45 9 S4 15 82 37 40 9 35 47 82 40 00 9 28 13 82 41 00 9 30 00 Thermometer, 51°. Result of calculation. below Grand tc« nc of chronometer. I. mill. tc. J 03 03.7 !) 05 15.0 J 07 01.0 idc. r 167 [ 248 ] Soon ImU at the mouth of a small creek on the left bank of the Platte river, DKTF.n.MINATION OF I,ATITrl>E. September 23, 1842.— Alliuide ofiho Sun iti tho mcridini. Observations. Double altitude of the Hun'i lower limb. Truo ciMitrul altituJo. Latitude. - >« rftf. mill, itc, H 37 05 (/rif. milt. if«. i6 33 04 der. mill. Ht. 41 80 90 1 ' 1 1 Index error - — 1' 32". Thermometer, 80^. Rrtcampment on the left bank of the PlaUe river, ttCMr the Loup fork. DCTBRMIBIATION OP LATITVDE. September 23, 1842 — Altitude of a Aqtiikc in the meridian. Observations. Double altitude of a Aquiloi. True altitude. Latitude. dtg. mill. sec. 114 1^ 10 de<(. min. uc. 57 04 43 dex- mill. ue. 41 93 53 Index error - — I' 32". de. see. 38 [848] 168 £ncamptntnt on the hft hank of the Plattfi ^ httr, at the month <"' th* Loup /o/ A. -Coiiluiucd, DETKIIM I NATION OK TIMK. * September 26, 1842.— AUiiiulo oi .he Sun. Obacrvatioiii. , . £nn IIRIT IBNIIt. »IO»MO IfKIKt. Douhir Sun's ■Ititudc of Um luwcr limb. . 1 Time uf chruDoinctcr. Duulilx iiltitudo of tho Hun'* luwcr limb. TImp I'f hron«itn<u 49 9fi )0 49 30 55 43 49 95 ;» 43 19.7 9 44 10.0 9 4f 49.0 9 4.. 20.0 1/ 45 j«i.0 Index orror - — 1' 32". Thermometer 73^. Obseivation indifTerent. RtsuU of calculation. Me^n time. Advance. hongituilc. k, min. nc. 7 50 14 A. min. ite. 1 59 00 titouth < th' u. w of 'hronomf'tr iinn. Vf«. » 43 19.7 44 10.0 t 4' 49.0 t 4.. QO.O > 45 .lli.U IW [248) m £iKam/i >ietU on . < '•// Livik '/the I'taU iiwr/,ar /A« moui/i of th* /^M^p /«/•/•.— Coiiiinunul. DKTICRMI.VATION OF LATITCDK. Sepiemb«r lirt, 1842— Alllindi- of iho Sun n«ar tli« mcrsdiati. f}lkfmtitiou9. O'xibie •llituda of tbo Hun I l«w«r llutb. ?!■ !)4 i>4 94 3U 45 15 00 Time ofchronomctrr. rniii. •M 30 3i »-.2 17 13 41 17 04 IdU' I iiptcd. 94 06 ;i) 1 35 sa 94 10 (»0 1 37 19 94 11 65 1 39 34 94 lii 35 Inltrr 1 upted. 40 49 !t4 Of) 95 1 48 3ii 94 0(i 25 1 r,\ 39 94 05 &0 1 iU -ii Thermomeier, 81°. Index error = — I' 32". Result of mlculation. True altitude. iUg. nun. 'tt. 47 20 4« Ad»tnce, h . mill. ftc. 1 51 56 Latitude. dfg. 41. inin. Q-2 03 ^ ft V .^ ^ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) // ^ ^^ >* .V^ .^> ^A 4^ ^ 4; 1.0 1.1 lii|2£ |2i |30 ^^" !■■■ |22 ja liJ 1121 St L£ 12.0 u u& 1^ iJ4 U4 •4 6" » HiolDgraphic Sciences Corporalion 23 WIST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. MSSO (716)873-4303 ^ [248] no Noon halt on the left bank of the Platte river. DETERMINATION OF LATITUDE. September 28, 1842.— Altitude of the Sun in the meridian. Observations. ''% Double altitude of the Time > of chronometer lower limb of the Bun. t min. $te. k. min. see. 49 30 1 9y 09 93 45 45 1 31 33 99 47 50 1 33 49 99 49 00 1 35 35 99 49 30 1 96 55 99 •50 10 1 38 50 99 49 95 1 41 29 99 48 45 1 49 39 99 48 15 1 43 33 99 47 90 1 45 10 99 46 10 1 46 18 99 44 35 1 47 51 99 41 90 1 49 51 Thermometer, 76°. Index error = — 1' 32". Result of calculation. True altitude. Mean time. Latitude. .s" .•;«* K ■■!iW, at the mouth of Elk Horn river. DETERMINATION OF LATITUDE. September 28, 1842.— Altitude of Polaris. Observations. t ■«•! Double altitude of Po- Time of chronometer. laris. dtg. •nin. ue. h. rntti. see. H 05 95 10 41 47 84 07 30 10 44 03 84 09 90 10 46 57 84 .10 40 10 48 45 84 09 50 10 50 94 84 11 15 10 53 99 84 12 55 10 54 9.1 84 16 90 10 57 OS 84 15 55 10 58 53 84 15 55 U 00 37 Thermometer 54^. Index error = — 40". Result of ceUcuUttion. litude. True altitude. dig. min. 49 04 see. 93 Latitude. dts, min. see. 41 09 34 1 4 \i :| I : Ij l^} 172 JBneamptiunt on the hft hank of th» Piatte river, at the mouth of th • Elk Horn river. DETERMINATION OF TIME. September 28, 1842.— Altitude of • Lyra. Obscrvatione. Double altitude of o Time of olironometer. Lyrae. dtg- min. 99 10 f(e. k. min. Ht. 80 11 84 36 96 33 10 11 86 83.7 97 46 80 11 88 83 9C 53 40 11 30 58 96 09 30 11 33 56 Thermometer, 84°. Index error = — 40". Result of calculation. Mean time. A. min. sec. 9 39 25 Advance. h. min. ue. 1 49 15 ».!!'...- (<;l« Longitude. ■■:' t f t/u mouth of (Kt rtt. jongitude. 178 Encampment on the h/t bank of the Platte river. DETERMINATION OP I.ATITt DR. Sepiomber 29, 1842.— Altitude of Polaris. Observations. [MtJ Double altitude of Time of chronometer. Polaris. dtg. niin. wc. /l, llltH. MC. H3 40 30 10 91 37 83 4J 35 10 94 90 83 44 10 10 96 37 83 45 05 10 98 46 83 46 00 10 30 51 83 48 00 10 J3 19 83 50 40 10 35 94 83 53 45 10 39 41 83 53 50 10 41 ii 83 54 40 10 43 18 • Tliermoineter 40°. Index error = — 1' 38". Result of calculation. True altitude. dtg. min. see. 41 52 05 Latitude. dtg. 41 mm. 09 15 .,ii^,u':.:::i'>^-- f. >Urrr, -.. ■t. '^i ■'•■ A- » '>, ■P t • V V ' I i ♦f^ ^< ,■ f' :•- 1 t ,i: !•*■ i i ..J »« 1 ^ i'i. \ ti V- ■ *5-- 1;/ [248] 174 EncatnptMnt at RcUevue, on the right bank of the Missouri river, at the traUing post of the American Fur Company, DRTERM1NATI0N OP LONOITUDK. , October 2, 1842.— Altitude of the Sun. , ' Observations. riMT IBRIBt. iceoHD IBRIIt. IHxiblc ultitiulc of the Hun'i lower limb. Time of chronometer. Double altitude of the Uun'R lower limb. Time of chronometer. dtg. min. Mt. 48 99 45 48 48 90 49 09 10 49 90 50 49 au 10 A. 19 10 10 10 10 min. 07 08 0« 09 10 see, 07.5 04.0 00. (> 49.8 10.5 dtg. min. ue. 49 49 95 49 59 00 50 05 00 .50 IS 05 50 94 55 h. min. ue. 10 10 49.8 10 11 18.6 10 19 00.4 10 19 30.4 10 13 0U.0 Index error, = — 1' 38". Result of calculation. Mean time. h, min, see. 8- 91 41.5 Longitude. dtg. 95 mm. 47 ue. 46 DETERMINATION OF LATITUDE. October 2, 1842. — Alliiude of the Sun iu the meridian. ' Observations. Double altitude of the Time of chronometer. lower limb uf the Sun. dtg. min. uc. h. min. $(C. 89 68 10 1 39 56 89 .58 55 1 33 35 89 59 90 1 34 20 90 00 05 1 36 07 89 59 55 1 36 55 89 59 45 1 38 31 89 59 40 1 39 39 89 59 10 1 40 97 89 59 10 1 41 17 89 58 95 1 49 26 89 57 30 1 43 91 89 55 20 1 45 52 Encat 48 48 48 49 49 ouri rtv«r, at the ny. tBRIEk. Time of chronometer. h. min. ue. 10 10 49.8 10 11 18.6 10 19 00.4 10 19 30.4 10 13 00.0 gitude. \in, tee. i7 46 eridian. 175 [248] Encampment at lielUvue, on *he rigU bank of t/it Miuouri river, at the trading pest of the American t\ur Company— Continued. UETERMINATION OK LONGITUDE. October 3, 184^— Alliiude of the Sun. nt • KCOKD lEMIII. Double altitude of the BuD'i lower limb. Time of chronometer. Double altitude of the Bun't lower limb. Time of chronometer. rf«/r- min. tie. 39 49 UO 39 99 40 39 07 30 38 56 30 38 45 50 h. 5 5 5 K 5 min. we, 33 13.0 34 19.3 35 16.9 35 48.3 36 19.0 deg. min. tee. 38 34 55 38 93 90 38 10 00 37 57 35 37 46 10 h, min, see. 5 36 ftl»a 5 37 95:8 5 38 03.8 5 38 40.0 5 39 13.7 Index error = — 1' 38". Result of calcnlation. DETERMrNATlON OF LONCIITUDE. October 4, 1842.— Altitude of the Sun. Observations. riRST lERIKI. kBCOND SEtlCI. - Double altitude of the Suo'b lower limb. Time of chronometer. Double altitude of the SutPg lower limb. Time of chronometer. < ■ r-l -!'•'. fit ,.■;:,, ' r Vfi*; '.*f* ( -'. r \ ' ' • K- 4i Cf 1 . ;■!. 1 ,\ k i ^ * 1 i< I ,t <:. ^t (11 ^ <'■'-. v^l «j ' . ' ■ 4,y- r = 0' >K t «. «;'' '•<: aui i 1) ■ \l '11 ■:Vi ' '^- ■ '»•'?; 'I-. *■». I V, 'i\ • ■ •<,ii'»^ ■'\i fin, !t . i' it. "^ « >;» 1 uri river, at tho Uoniiiuted. ion. 177 [ 84S ] UncamptMHt on the h/t hmtk of Mittouri river, oppo»Ue to the right hmUe ty the mouth of the Platte rirer. DKTBRMINATIUN OF LATITVOE. October 4, 1843.— Altituile of Polariv. Observations. .1 .i..>w lituiir. Dmiblr altltudr olPo- Time of rhroaumtler. larii. *;r- min, xtc. h. min. .wc. H4 11 10 10 il 94 H4 11 50 10 5.1 St H4 14 M 10 S6 31 84 16 ao 10 M 47 »4 IH iU 11 03 54 .S4 XO (M) 11 U^ 4(1 84 'M 9.1 11 OT 31 N4 91 3U 11 10 54 H4 9.1 40 11 U 14 84 94 SO 11 15 15 Thermometer, Oy-\ Index error = — l' 21". iUsult of calculation. True altitude. 6tx. mm. te. i'i 07 '1> Latitude. 41 imn. 02 19 12 •nh IJ' at' 41 366,-'"^^■ m •k'. ■'' I 4't''V • ''''i < .*^ .>-» •(>. R/>tl • ;>i'-» .1 . '\ttr "^ w'l .-,£ ut ft^ ci ll-1 •»t»fl[ i«!

. Index error -- — 1' 21 licsu/t of cdlculalion. /( True altitude. Mean time. Latitude. lUg. mm. $ff. 41 14 37 h. mill. ffe. 7 5a 3U dfg, mtn. Hf. 4U 34 08 1 jVoon hah ui Rcrtliolct's island, Missouri river. * - - • DETF.UMIN.XTIOX OF LATITIDK. October 6, 1S42. — Altitude of the Sim in the mcridinn. Double altitude of the Sud's lower lim'u. «<*y. mtn. h(. ^ 16 5& Latitude. dff. tnin. ttc. 4U 27 08 Mm Duti(il( Hi) 0il Index error, = — 1' 35". 170 [948] Eittamprntnt on M« Itft bank of Iht Misaouri r{i'«r, mouth of Ifif Sinhna- haiona riv9r. •%ver. UKTKHMINATION OF TIMK. Oclob«r ti, 184'3<— AUUudo a Aquilu*. Ofn«rvQtioM. riMT •IRIBI. IMtllD IRIIWI. DuUblr nitllude uf « AqullB. Time « )r chrunumstcr. 1 Double alUtud* uf u Aqulla. Time uf chrunoiualar. dig. mid. w. of Po- ' TImr of rlirend««l*r, laru *t mid. •fi". ». mil*. Wr (M M (Ml 10 19 :m M 93 yo 10 \S w H'i 94 9.1 10 17 04 MJ M V.'i 10 18 55 Bi 97 3:> to 90 K BU 97 4A 10 99 (fi Hi Tit &:• 10 94 CJ 8'J 31 :(5 10 97 M HU 3 .•vRtiA \j'j;o iw w^wi-^ v^ mii\if' \wA indicutionH we hnvf. The barometen were compared with thove of Dr. (>. Bngolnuui, of St. Louis, Miwouri, whose observations nre given for u cnrrci'pouding period. Thn following i« the result of forty coinporntive olmervuiinni) of throe buromoterH instituted by him from May 22d, to May 2<.Uh, 1842, at St. liouis. Rungn of barometers during that period U".4()(\ (eni[iurntnio 60" to 75^. Uarometer E, as observed for and not«>d in the journal of the academy : » Fremont'H Troughton (T) — C".136 » Frumwil's Carey (C.) — 0".17tf. Ronge in the di (Terences : Fremont'* Curey (C.) M««n E — Framont't Troughton (T.) — 0".I36 Jlinlnum i *' '• — U'MIS. UximURIaa " " — O'.lSO Range ». " " 0".034 > 0".179. 0".|«7. 0".10O. 0".093. Ill the annexed observations, the baronieicrd, Troughton and Carey, are designated respectively by the letters T. and C. In calculation the obser>-u- lions at tlVe upper stations were referred lo the aiuffie corresponding obser- vation for the relative period of time at the lower aiatioii. It would perhaps have been better to refer lo the mean of the observations for the month at the lojver station. In calculation, the tables used were those of Uessel and of Oltmanns, as given in Humboldt. >> -4'l» h .*S Si f -t t^ •i ft. It' t ,f t«4«] 188 m ;j .ii ■it ^ E «> ss t IP ^1 I >t2« 8* 11 ^1 fi ►^■e-^** ll*& t 1 •s .a 1 I I llllj ilil t 11^ I II !|-^llll sseie?:s:gr!Ssai5K?: ;?;:«:;; si ^ si 8) si si si si si si si si tilt ■ no ^ r* Seiner g)S) ni.^er^eo'Au^r-ei'Ceeer-s sss!:?sto?2S8is:aiSs;:ssis S2§§52s^ii=eiiii sisssisis^siSiasiSis^sissisiss < a; or- r« sMoeO'^oooMV to 3 cb u) o CO r> in r» r* 85s I- 00 ioe5o0»eoa)< ^9 ssisis^s^sssisiss^ :^s ss ss s 1 1 > • » • > • • • > • • < « 25 T O O M 2 « ♦ fi seeo0>9soto> ss ss :s, 5 » ci> 4. ^- fi s a. a> I 189 .P.J Uf ally's 1^. oQ< cat ,. Til iaShS « Ji wSooSSiSr- ('i2<>i0<2vs o d i !-• I- * t- I- 8 irt ^usasiii 3$ Si o>f»mo>nse nsssso CI w « «5 •'. Ox .S I I [848] f ^:: ."'-^ I 848 ] 190 1 J I Q C O "a i h i ! V N I ! I ! H I I III eeo Hi s^.n ftcr O O r> s 1 « ■Si ■3 § K», * '-ecus'* M >o w 91 r^ QQ <0 9t 2 I §s ja o s s O la S50 I* ■3*s 55 y 5g} 1:8 O 3 o 3 o 9 sisi ^ s 3 O a. o s ^•3 la ■ do ffl&S •oS^S so ui 00 ?• e 00 •/> a ;S3 QQi3S?iris 00 eSo&9)e><^ CO >/) m (0 oi !>• CO ve ^ a 3 o a. Vi Q 1(3 191 [«48) ^sad (,' o ae u u S iJ ess ! ! I 333 : : i . oope* 1 00 I • (to eoejineotps tO fj ! { tiij M 9»in in -• w a»-« •» lO • • •« *^o«oio^»m •«» usQooooMocii.'s ©mrorswoifl eoo tAvinotnc^aoooi M«-;«i-.pc»s»^»op ^ Vi- lest ao«M : : :::::: :a : .a : :s :s :: : S > ;i I? jr s; ^ 16 •» a o s « o a o S n U Si 4i § •a - s i t. s 2 H O 3 it's 550 [«4«] 192 )'. 1 .s I i5 J } ! f " F I I?! 5^1 Q!;:;) ! I 1 -I It ?**^ tn s 'X ] If 1 I 2|J I 9i '3, 1 11 ■3« •a'*'- u k m a a 5 s? ,1' I *l •A >eosoo me onntA • • • "ft« • • • • s - -, • • • • < s ■ >/) «o>i< u)(0at(« 41 7 CI 3 e a, O 3 a o. 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