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 Isles of Shoals to C^kam) Mlxax. 
 
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 TM 11 31 
 
 X n. 
 
 tn *i !■ 31! 
 
 Preface. 
 
 5 
 
 The substance of this book was originally prepared in 
 the form of a series of letters for the public press, but it 
 was finally decided to give the topics treated a more per- 
 manent place in literature. The Author was encouraged 
 to do so, for the reason that the field was unoccupied, no 
 one having attempted to bring out a work of this character 
 relating to what is universallv conceded to be the most 
 romantic and interesting portion of the New-England 
 Coast. 
 
 This work is not offered as a guide, though the Author 
 hopes that it may not prove unacceptable as a companion. 
 Being popular in its character, it was not thought expe- 
 dient to cumber the pages with many references, yet it is 
 believed that no important statement of fact is in any case 
 given that does not rest on good authority, unless it be tho 
 representation given of Argall. 
 
 Stuyvesant Park, New York, 1871 
 
 SJ^Ou'^ 
 
^ .l_ -fill «iLp»fW^!W"t" 
 
xr i» 
 
 TTT- iir ■ rr rv i» tw i» it wr 
 
 i 
 
 n Txz:^f TX It n rr in 
 
 Contents. 
 
 Chapter 
 
 T. . 
 
 • • 
 
 . . . . 1>ird'.s-Eye Views. 
 
 Cii\rTi;ii 
 
 11. . 
 
 
 ^lorxr I)i:sERr. 
 
 CiiAi'Tr.ii 
 
 iir. 
 
 A 11 
 
 vixY jNIornixg with the Jesiiis. 
 
 ClIAPTKU 
 
 IV. 
 
 AK 
 
 VINY ^loRNIXG WITH THE JesUITS. 
 
 Cir VTTiii 
 
 y. . 
 
 
 Somes' Soixd. 
 
 ClIAPTKU 
 
 XL 
 
 
 . . . A:mox(; the Moext aix.s. 
 
 C II APT I, R 
 
 VII. 
 
 • « 
 
 . . . AlNIOXG THE ]\I()UXTAi\S. 
 
 Chapter 
 
 VIII. 
 
 • • 
 
 The Lake ltE(;ioN. 
 
 Chapter 
 
 IX. 
 
 • • 
 
 Ueac H Uamiji.i:s. 
 
 ClIVPTER 
 
 X. . 
 
 
 Fri:x(timan's Bvy. 
 
 Chapter 
 
 XI. 
 
 
 . . . Fog axi) iis IOeeects. 
 
 Chapter 
 
 XII. 
 
 
 . . . Fish axd Fisheu-Foek. 
 
 Chapter 
 
 XIII. 
 
 • 
 
 . . . , The Isles up Shoals. 
 
 ClI \PTER 
 
 XIV, 
 XV. 
 
 
 Pexorscot 1j vy. 
 
 Chapter 
 
 • 
 
 GuAXD ^Iexax. 
 
 Appendix. 
 
 • • 
 
 
M 
 
 O U N T 
 
 D 
 
 E S E R T . 
 
 B IRD'S-EY K VfFAVS. 
 
 Cn APT Ell I. 
 
 The Coast — Its "Rkautiks — Its PixuLrAuiTiEs — Its 
 RivKiis — Tmo XoiiTiiMKN — Caijot — Vkurazzaxo — 
 Gosx()i.D~ru!NCr— Df: Moxts— Wky.moutii— PoriiAM— 
 Henhy Hudson — The Jmsuits. 
 
 EVEEIAL siimiiKns ui^^o wo wero sitting 
 at an open window, looking out npon 
 one of tho })leasant ])arks of New York, 
 vainly endeavoring to detect some [x'r- 
 ceptible motion among the tall nuqdes whose leaves 
 had himix ever since morning as immovable as foliage 
 cut in cold stone. But not a Vjougli waved nor a leaf 
 stirred, for the dog-days had set in, and a Canicnla 
 of unequalled intensity seemed fairly to weigh (hjwn 
 the whole world. It was almost im[)Ossil>le to breathe, 
 and the very grasshopper was a burden. Under the 
 circumstances, the mind recurred to every conceivable 
 refuge, and was tantalized by visions of far-off isles, 
 sown like gems in the sea, where, as the ])ard of Scio 
 imagined, the shrilly-breathing Zephyrus v*'as ever 
 
8 
 
 Mount Desert, 
 
 ])iping for the reiVesliment of man. At last fancy 
 found expression in words, and we fell into a serious 
 discussion of tlie merits of ocean and sliore, and re- 
 solved to get out of the suffocating city without delay. 
 But where should we go? Of course, repetitions of 
 New York were suufijested ; and vet what real advan- 
 tage shoidd we lind in any change that gave no fresh 
 mental and moral air? The sicklv dilutions of Lontjj 
 IJranch ould not sulhce. Ami so (I hardly know 
 lioNv it came about) j\[auie was talkcid of. But what 
 was th(u-e in jNIaine ? We certainly did not want to 
 go to Moosehead Lake at this season, to he devoured 
 by black flies. Why, of course, there was '' Mount 
 Desert." The name was a novelty, and reminded lis 
 of the scenes wliich suggested the story of " The Pearl 
 of Orr's Island." AV^e at once looked up the place, 
 and found, in several books of travel, brief references, 
 by out-of-the-way touiists, to a wonderful isle off Pe- 
 nobscot Bay, an isle seen in early times^ by sailors, 
 
 (1 )— ^fany into whoso liantls this book may fall, will tlonbtlcss be plad to have 
 hfvo a ft-'w ailtlitioTial itoius on the early history of Maino, which are there- 
 fore (riven in the form of note-J, to bo skipped by the general reader. First, it 
 nnist be observed that the i)re Columbian discovery of America is now re- 
 pard(Hl as an established fact. The authenticity of the Icelandic histories 
 has beoii anijily vindii-ated, and it is clear that the Atlantic Coast \y\\\^ above 
 the forly-lirst iiurallel was more or l»\ss familiar to the Icelandic navl<rators. 
 Yet the shores of ]\raine arc not nuMitioiied in any of the Saf^'as, The ]irinci- 
 pal voyajTes of which we have historical accounts were made to a locality 
 called I[op^ near the southeastern part of .Massachusetts, for which place 
 they laid their course when leavinir the headlands of Nova Scotia. Conse- 
 quently, while the slinres of Labradtir and Nova Scotia are delineated withi 
 con;-iderable miiuiteness, nothiuii appears to apply to the coast of ^Maine. 
 
 Biarue, fcoii of Ueriulf, who was driven upon the Auiericau coacit in the 
 
Mount Desert. 
 
 and wliicli was called " ^[ounfc Desert." Ft was a 
 perfect ^errrt i/iror/nita to onv luiiids ; but we at oiico 
 resolved on an exploration. From Willianison's lun'e- 
 liable and yet invaluabh; book on Maine, wi; learniMl 
 
 year 985, doubtlospi Pfvw this part of the (N>untry, and the fiirly voyatrcra 
 probably came thither in their evpeditiims to obtain timber ; but the iiistory 
 of Mainn \va.< nevorthelciss almost a blanic as late as the betjiniiini^ of tlio six- 
 teeiitli eentury. About five years after tlu; re-diseovery of Amorieu by 
 Columbus, the Cabot brothers sailed southward alon<^ tlio coast of ^faino, 
 thout^h without leavin'4 any niojnorial. In lodl the lliseay lishenueu aro 
 knov.-n to have frequented the neiL^hborint; seas; while in !.")•,' I Verra/.zano 
 cfMi»t(!d these romantic shores, bems^ followed the next year by Stephen 
 Gomez, who in the course of this voyage became ac(|uainted with the llud- 
 »^o!i Kiver, namini^ it Iliver of St. Anthony. Amoni,' otlu'rs who visited thirt 
 region about this jx-riod was the l-'renehman Jolm Ailfonsec, a pilot of 
 Iloberval. About the year 'ii)\'2 he sailed south, and founil a trreat bay in 
 latitude 'I'-J'' N., which, in all i)robability. was ^fassac^husetts Bay. A copy of 
 hie map of the coast, made from the ori.irinal, is in the jiossessioii of the 
 writer, for whom it was made by M. Davezac. But when \vc come down to 
 10(1-2, Gosnold gives ns more definite d(>scriptions. 
 
 This navigator sailed from Falmouth, England, March 2<>, came in sight 
 of the coast of ;^^aine ^fay 4, in about the 4'M di'gree of north latitude. Tho 
 land seen by him may have been Agamenti<'us, though some {x-rsons ofTer tho 
 opinion that it was Mount Desert, fn this region Gosnold met eight Indians 
 in a shallop, which th^y ])robably hail obtained of some T.iscay fishermen. 
 
 June 7, the year following, Martin I'ring came in sight of the coast, and 
 afterwards e.vplorcil the entire seaboard. The accounts whieh he gave on 
 hiri return were reliable and exact. 
 
 In the winter of HtOl-r). ])e .\Ionts with his party, who came from l''raneo 
 in the preceding May, lived on an island in the St. (Jroix Kiver. In tho 
 spring, Do Monts, attended by Champlain and other gentlemen, coasted 
 southward in a small vessel, erecting a cross at the Kennebec, and takinfj 
 formal possession of the territory in the name (jf th(! King of France: not- 
 withstanding tho voyage of I'ring. ai'cording to the views of that age, g'.i\-0 
 to the English Crown a prior right, Champlain went as far south as Ciipe 
 Cod. where he was wounded in a fight with the Indians. The map of the coast 
 drawn by him was the most exact of any hitherto made ; still it was sulTl- 
 ciently obscure. 
 
 In M)»y of the sane year, George Weymouth came out with an expedition 
 under the patronage of the Earl of Southampton, the friend of Shakespeare, 
 
" 
 
 10 
 
 Mount Desert, 
 
 something of the general featnros of the whole coast, 
 and decided to take all the principal points on the way 
 from the Isles of Shoals oil' Portsmouth I'^ irbor, to 
 
 and on the seventeenth of the month renched an island on the coast, which 
 he called St. George. This island was probably Monhegan. He afterwards 
 eri^lorcd the country, and then returned to England, carrying with him 
 several Indians whom ho kidnapped for the purpose. 
 
 In lfJ07 George Popham attempted to found a colony at Sagadahoc, 
 where a fort and various buildings were erected. His first thought was to 
 commence his colony on Stage Island, but he afterwards removed to the 
 peninsula. It is claimed, though with no very strong reasons, that this was 
 the first attempt to colonize the coast of Maine. But in all such claims local 
 pride is liable to overreach itself. This colony at Sagadahoc was composed 
 chiefly of persons more or less attached to the Church of England. They 
 Ijrought their chaplain with them, and held Divine Service here on the coast 
 of New England, thirteen years before the Plymouth Pilgrims landed on tho 
 shores of Capo Cod. As is well known, after making a fair beginning, they 
 were obliged to give up the enterprise and return to England. Thus it will 
 be seen that popular notion, which makes the Plymouth Pilgrims the pioneers 
 on an Tinknown coast, has little support in fact. The coast for nearly a 
 hundred years had been tolerably well known, while they fell npon it by 
 mistake, having originally laid their coun^e for the Hudson River. 
 
 The historj' of the Maine coast is yet to be written by some pei-son possess- 
 ing ampler materials than are yet in hand, and with broader sympathies than 
 any heretofore displayed. 
 
 The colony established in 1001-5 by Do ^Mnnts. at Port Tloyul, was aban- 
 doned, but in 101 1 it was re-established by Pontrincourt, who brought over 
 Father Pierre Biard, a Jesuit Professor of Theology at Lyons, and Father 
 Masse. The next year the ^farehioness de Guercheville, the warm friend and 
 patron of the mission, induced Dc Monts to surrender his jiatent, when it 
 was conferred xipon her by Ijouis XIIT., who ad led all the territory in 
 America between the St. Lawrence and Florida, with the cxcci^tiun of Port 
 Royal, which liad been previously confirmed to Pontrincourt. In 1(')13 tho 
 Marchioness prepared to take full possession of her territory in America.' 
 Le Saussaye commanded the ship that was ?ent out, and with him went 
 Fathers Quentin and Lallemant, and Brot'ior du Thet. Arriving at Port 
 Royal, they found Fathers Biard and ]\rasse. A very short time afterwards 
 they left Port Royal in the "ILmfleur," to establish a colony at Mount Desert. 
 This was eleven years after Gosnold began his settlement at Cuttyhunk, and 
 seven years before the Pilgrims landed at Plymouth. 
 
. II . W9\\i 11 mp 
 
 Mount Desert. 
 
 II 
 
 Grand Menan, Hnothei- isle of wonders, lvin«' in tlio 
 mouth of the Bay of Fundy. 
 
 Organizing our small force, we started for Boston, 
 from whence we finally reached the famous Isles of 
 Shoals, which glitter in the sea in sii,dit of Rye (New 
 Hampshire) Beach. At the '' Hhoals " we fairly com- 
 menced our tour, though in the plan of this book the 
 description of this place comes towards the end. But, 
 before proceeding any farther, we wish to say some- 
 thing definite in favor of Maine. 
 
 Now we know that tnat which is dearly bought is 
 highly prized ; and hence scenes viewed when trnvd- 
 ling afar are esteemed above those found nigh at 
 hand. Tourists flock annually to the Okl World in 
 search of natural beauties, as if there were nothing in 
 our own land to excite admiration. And yet we liave 
 every variety of mountain and coast scenery, erpial, if 
 not superior, to that of foi'eign countries, almost within 
 sight of all our doors. 
 
 We hear much, for instance, of the coast-scenery of 
 Cornwall, the Isle of Wight, and the Mediterranean, 
 but still we do not fear to place in comj^arison the 
 varied and romantic beauties of the coast of ]Mai!ie. 
 The entire seaboard is frett^^'d and fringed in the most 
 remarkable manner, forming a long-drawn labyiinth 
 of capes, bays, headlands, and isles. The minflin<' of 
 land and water is indeed admirable. Here a cape, 
 clad in pine greenery, extends out into the sea, coquet- 
 tishly encircling a great field of blue waves; there a 
 
12 
 
 Mount Desert. 
 
 bold lieadlaiul, with ifs outlying droii'^s, niof^ts and 
 biifFcts tlio billows with catu[)iiltic force ; liorc the 
 bri;^lit fiord runs niorrily np into the land, the hills 
 st(;pping down to its borders, mirroring their outlines 
 as in a glass ; there a iiundred isles are sown, like 
 sparkling <nneralds, in the sununer sea. 
 
 We need not })luiige into the wild interior of Maine, 
 and wander amid its mountains and Inkes and streams, 
 in order to discover a wealth of befiutv. All that one 
 can reasonably' desire is found on the border. Sailing 
 aiortliNvard, the shores of the Atlantic are found com- 
 paratively uninteresting until we a})proach the coast of 
 Maine, when all tameness vanishes, and the shore i)uts 
 on a bold, rugged beauty that could hardly be sur- 
 passed. 
 
 Whoever carefully examines a good map of the 
 continents will perceive that, in a multitude of cases, 
 amounting almost to a general ride, the capes point 
 southward, and that groups of islands Jire found south 
 of the land. Or otherwise, that, as we proceed soutli- 
 Avard, we find the land tapering away and terminating 
 in islands. This we have sc^en is eminently triui of 
 the coast of Maine. To account for the |)resent con- 
 figuration of this coast is extremely ditlicidt. It 
 looks as if its shores had been broken and serrated by 
 glaciers, which, as Agassiz tells us, once covered the 
 entire State. Before the retreat of the ice period, 
 those vast glaciers, slowly descending from the moun- 
 tains to the sea, might perhaps, in long ages, have 
 
 mmk 
 
ITounf Desert. ^^■, 
 
 thus ploughed out portions of tlio sl,o,vs, fon,m,« 
 capes and bays ; yet we must iu many cases accouu^ 
 for the islands at least, l.y other causes. Son,e are 
 clearly the result of upheaval, while others n.av have 
 been forme.l by the sinking of neighboring hJ.d be- 
 neath the surface of the waves. Yet, however this 
 ■nay be, the coast of Maine presents an a,,pearaneo 
 similar to what the Duke of Bourbon called, " that 
 nook-shotten isle of Albion." And from its broken 
 outline comes its beauty. 
 
 And it will be the aim of the writer in the present 
 work to do something like justice to this really re- 
 markable region, which is one that in the course of 
 time must be very widely known an.l thorou.dily a„- 
 preeiated by that rapidly increasing elass who delight 
 in all the varied an.l wayward moods of Natur^^so 
 splendidly illustrated among the mountains and alon^ 
 the shores between the Isles of Shoals and Grand 
 JMenan. 
 
 As regards the accommodations for travel, eompara- 
 tivcly httle has been said, though they will be found 
 quite ample. They are subject to more or less change 
 from season to season, an.l are at the same time iin- - 
 proving. New resorts are continually being found 
 out, which necessitates new means of communication. 
 For Mount Desert direct, the fovorite route from 
 Boston IS by rail to Portland, and thence by steamer 
 to oouthwost an<I Bar Harbors: though such as have 
 an unconquerable dread of ihe sea can proceed by rail 
 
14 Mount Desert. 
 
 to Bill 1^:^01', and reach tlie island bv the stafje route. But 
 thus they miss one great charm, namely, the ocean 
 views of Mount r>esert, which, to be thoroughly en- 
 joyed, must be seen from every point of approach. 
 
 It should also be i*emem.bered that the steamer now 
 runs regularly, in the season, from Portsmouth to the 
 Isles of Slioals ; while a similar swifo and reliable con- 
 venience connects Eastport w^ith Grand Menan, thus 
 divesting the journey to that remarkable place of all 
 the uncertainties and risks that in former times pre- 
 vented so many from enjoying its attractions, now 
 placed oidy a couple of hours, at the farthest, from the 
 neigliboring main, llailway guides will enable the 
 tourist to count the cost. 
 
 For such as live to eat, and are curious about the 
 matter of lodgings, there can be but little more than 
 the general remark, that, both as regards quality and 
 expense, the same variation is found on the New Eng- 
 land coast that is characteristic of the city of New York. 
 Slender consolations, indeed ! At any moment the 
 feast may be turned into a famine. It will be the 
 business of Jenkins, who has fared sumptuously 
 (and freely) at the one, to warn you, specially, of the 
 other. After the elegant entertainments of Portland 
 and Appledore (Isles of Shoals), the tourist will expe- 
 rience a steady decline ; on the way down in the scale 
 reaching the average at Mount Desert ; and touching 
 bottom with the necessarily frugal fare of Grand 
 Menan. All, save epicures, wdll find the real feast 
 
Mottnt Desert, 
 
 15 
 
 everywhere spread out of doors, free of cost to every 
 comer. It is this class for whom the author caters; 
 and if they cannot rest satisfied during a summer vaca- 
 tion with wliat the foHowing pages offer, they will do 
 well by staying away from the New England coast al- 
 together. 
 
i 
 
 MOUNT DESERT. 
 
 CHAP T E R II. 
 
 Depautuhi: from tiii: Isles of Shoals — Aoamenticus — 
 Night — Sunrise— Uecalmed— The View of Mount 
 Deseut — Ashore — The Mountains. 
 
 ANDERING along the coast, we found 
 ourselves, iu course of time, at the Isles of 
 Shoals, where we took passage in a trim- 
 looking schooner for Mount Desert. We 
 sailed in the morning with a fresh southerly breeze. 
 It was not long before we had a fine view of Agamen- 
 ticus, which rises to the height of several hundred feet, 
 send in IX out its ijreetinij from afar. 
 
 At this point, ]Mr. Oldstyle, the chief Historian of 
 the party, and who is really to be held responsible for 
 the most of what is said in the previous chapter, 
 felt a slight attack of sea-sickness ; yet his unfjiiling 
 enthusiasm, united with the potent virtues of a lemon, 
 kept him up, and he managed to relate many things 
 about Agamenticus in the days of yore, and, among 
 others, that this place was early designed to be a 
 sort of metropolitan city. In 1G42 Edward Godfrey 
 was duly appointed the mayor, while the same author- 
 ity provided for two fairs to be "held and kept" there 
 
 f: 
 
I 
 
 JMount Desert. 
 
 17 
 
 n of 
 
 for 
 fter, 
 ling 
 Inoii, 
 |ings 
 long 
 (e a 
 frey 
 hor- 
 lliere 
 
 "every year, forever thereafter" upon the Festivals of 
 SS. flames' and Paul's. The fate of this embryo 
 citv rcmiuds us of the fact that the best laid plans of 
 : mice and men oft "gang ;<glo3\" Nevertheless, Ag- 
 amenticus forms a noble land-mark. 
 
 The 8ki[)per here gave tlie coast a wide berth, and 
 hiid liis course due north-east, shortly running down 
 tlie hind, though not before we had gained a glimpse 
 of the distant peak of Mount Washington. The wind 
 held fresh until sunset, and by nightfall the schooner 
 was oft* Penobscot Bay, wlien the light-house on 
 Mount Desert Rock opened its bright eye. 
 
 Our progress during the niglit was slow, but when 
 morning dawned we were not far from the isle of our 
 dreams. I was aroused from my slumbers by Old 
 Sol himself, who, like some rude linkboy thrusting his 
 torch in one's face, rose from the sea and sent a broad 
 beam in through the little cabin window into my berth, 
 hitting me squarely in the eye. Thereupon I resolved 
 to rise. But Mr. Oldstyle, fuDy determined to have the 
 first glimpse of the land, was ahead of me; and while 
 I was pulling on my boots, disappeared up the com- 
 panion-way in his smart, swallow-tailed coat, with a 
 long spy-glass under his arm. Aureole, a young gen- 
 tleman of our party, who, under the influence of Nep- 
 tune, was very quiet the day before, followed him, hav- 
 ing now got his "sea-legs" on ; and before I could get 
 on deck I heard him enijasinfj in the following brief 
 colloquy : 
 
 ■o"o' 
 
m ' T 
 
 i8 
 
 Mount Desert. 
 
 " Wliat land 's that, Skipper?" 
 
 "]M()uiit Desert, I reckon," was the reply, putting 
 tlie accent on tlie hist sylhible of " Desert." 
 
 "How far off?" 
 
 "Six or eight miles, ma' he." 
 
 "Wlien are we going to get there ?" 
 
 "Don't know." 
 
 Thereupon I thought it high time to inquire into 
 the real state of affairs; and accordingly I hurried on 
 deck, and found that there was a dead calm, the main- 
 sail hanging perpendicularly from its gaff, our little 
 craft appearing altogether 
 
 "As idle as n painted ship 
 Upon a painted ocean." 
 
 Yet it was a splendid morning ; and, besides, there 
 lay our enchanted isle, towering up out of tlie calm 
 sea, veiled in a thin mist, and gilded all over w ith the 
 ifolden fdories of the risinir sun. 
 
 In order to find a scene that will equal this, we 
 must sail far away into the Pacific Sea. At a distance 
 the isl;ind appears like a single mountain, of great 
 height, green around its sides, and bare at the 
 summit, which, on this occasion, gleamed upon us 
 through the mist like a pinnacle of gold. 
 
 We sat long gazing upon this beautiful prospect, 
 not even desiring to come nearer, lest the vision 
 should be dispelled. Yet with the sun came a light 
 breeze, and as it approached in the distance, rippling 
 
]\Iount Dcscn. 
 
 19 
 
 ttmg 
 
 ) into 
 
 ed on 
 
 maln- 
 
 littlo 
 
 5, there 
 
 calm 
 
 til the 
 
 liis, ^ve 
 iistancc 
 
 ' jTvcat 
 at the 
 
 ion us 
 
 rospcct, 
 vision 
 a light 
 
 rippling 
 
 ■:# 
 
 tlie surface of the still sea, tlie Skipper unlashed the 
 helm, and stood ready to steer Iiis craft into port. And 
 ^vhen the hreeze came, it barelvswunijont tlie schoon- 
 er's boom, thongh at last we managed to get steerage- 
 way, and sailed slowly, wing and wing, and with a 
 sort of classic pomj), the gull wheeling and the por- 
 poise diving, and l)oth showing a sort of welcome by 
 escortinij us on our vovaije. 
 
 In due time we entered the Harbor, went ashore, 
 and found comfortabk^ quarters. 
 
 After beinij dulv refreshed, we turned to the Gazet- 
 tcpr, and f)und it stated that Mount Desert is an 
 island lying off the coast of Maine, at a <listance of 
 one hundred and ten miles east of Portland, ])t'ing 
 connected with the main-land by a bridge. Mr. Old- 
 style, after consulting his notes, said that it was seen by 
 Cham[)lain in 1005, who called it 3fons Desert. It is 
 anything but a desert. ChampUiin judged of its char- 
 acter by the mountain-peak, so prominent when viewed 
 from a distance, and which Whittier calls the " Bald 
 mountain's shrubless brow," and 
 
 " Tho ffray aiifl tlumdcr-smitten pile 
 "Which marks afar tho Desert Isle." 
 
 This land is to be distinguished from Mount Desert 
 Rock, which lies in the ocean, fifteen miles south of the 
 island, affording just room enough for the light-house. 
 Mount Desert Jiock is alluded to by Whittier, and I 
 give his description, because it is as good as a photo- 
 graph. He writes : 
 
n 
 
 20 
 
 Mottnt Dcscft. 
 
 "And Desert Rock, abriipt and bare, 
 Lifts its firay turret in the air — 
 Seen from afar, like ponic stronghold, 
 Built by the occau kings of old." 
 
 Tliis island contains about one hundred square 
 miles. It is fourteen miles long, and, on an average, 
 about seven wide, its longer axis lying nearly north 
 and south. On the east side a tongue of the sea ex- 
 tends seven miles into the land, and is called Somes' 
 Sound. On either side of the entrance to this Sound 
 is a small harbor, one being called the North-east, and 
 the other the South-west Harbor. Bar Harbor, where 
 the steamer has a landing, is on the north-east side of 
 the island. Here one of the Porcupine Islands is 
 joined to Mount Desert by a sandy bar. Other 
 islands are scattered around on every hand, adding 
 greatly to the effect of the scenery. 
 
 But the mountains are the great distinguishing fea- 
 ture of the island. They are situated in its southern 
 part, and form thirteen distinct peaks, which descend 
 by gradual slopes towards the west, and end at the 
 east, in most cases, with abrupt precipices, four of 
 which look down upon glittering lakes, while a fifth 
 reflects its image in the briny waters of Somes' 
 Sound. 
 
 The highest peak is that of Green Mountain, upon 
 which the officers of the Coast Survey built their ob- 
 servatory, and which served as the chief point in their 
 complicated series of triangulations. The height of 
 
Muunt DlsctI, 
 
 21 
 
 a ex- 
 
 tliis mountain is computed at fifteen hundred and 
 thirtv-five feet above the k'vel of tlie sea. TlR'se 
 mountains are the bones of the eartli, which, being 
 broken and u[)heaved, form some of our most striking 
 and beautiful scenery, giving us lovely valleys, wild 
 mountain passes and sparkling fresh-water lakes, within 
 the sound of the murnuiring sea. This leads to a re- 
 mark on one feature of JMount Desert, which combines 
 the characteristics of seashore and inland, Newport 
 and the Catskills. 1 say the Catskills, and not the 
 AVliite Mountains, because the great grandeur, and 
 often the sublimity of the lattcv, will not allow of a 
 comparison. Yet here we have the same iVy/c, if 
 not the same degree, of beauty. The AVhite-Moun- 
 tain Notch is here rei)resented, not unworthily, by the 
 celebrated Notch which is situated between Dry and 
 Newport Mountain, on the road from Jiar Harbor 
 to Otter Creek. AVandcring alone in the stillness of 
 this wild and romantic retreat, one can scarcely real- 
 ize that he is indeed so near the shore of the loud- 
 sounding sea. Mrs. Browning's description of her 
 imaginary island applies with equal fitness to this, 
 when she writes; 
 
 "An island full of hills and dells, 
 
 All rumpled and uneven 
 With j»rcen recesses, sudden swells, 
 
 And odorous valleys, driven 
 So deep and straight, that always there 
 
 The wind is cradled to soft air." 
 
22 
 
 Jiloimt Dcsat. 
 
 But all tliese features of Jlount Desert, with its 
 lalies and ,,onds and cliffs and trout-brooks and pic- 
 turesque .shores, will be described in detail elsewhere • 
 so let us not anticipate the feast with a few crumbs 
 
A RAINY MORNING WITH 
 THE JESUITS. 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 A Storm Brewing — Coxsultation — A Vote tor His- 
 tory- BiARD — A False Alarm. 
 
 AVING gained a general acquaintance 
 with the phice, posted ourselves with 
 regard to the routes, and the best way 
 of ''doing" the island, an easterly storm 
 came on, which promised to keep us indoors for a 
 couple of days. A storm on the shore of Blount 
 Desert affords many a faie sight, yet we did not 
 come to see what il^olus could do in tossimr brc^ak- 
 ers. I\evertlieless, we accepted the situation, and 
 when we found the crale risino;, and the ijrcat rain- 
 drops dashing against the windo\\s, we laid aside 
 our canes and extemporized alpenstocks, and as- 
 sembled in the little parlor for mutual counsel and 
 advice. 
 
 And what should we do ? Various propositions were 
 made, but nothing seemed to meet the views of our 
 party, which had l)een increased by the addition of 
 three or four ver}^ pleasant and companionable persons, 
 
T 
 
 i I 
 
 24 A Rainy Morning with the ycstiits. 
 
 many of whom we always find here. Finally it was 
 proposed to have a reading, and one suggested that it 
 should be historic. The countenance of our antiqua- 
 rian friend, ^Ir. Oldstyle, beamed with satisfaction at 
 this, yet his expression quickly changed when Aureole, 
 a youthful family connection, broke out, saying, "Yes, 
 exactly, let us have Mr. Pickwick's monogra])h on 
 the source of Ilampstead Ponds." But Mr. Old- 
 style met this exhibition of unseemly levity with such 
 a severe frown, and looked so concerned for the dig- 
 nity of history, that, while a young lady giggled, the 
 res*, of the company quite failed to see the point of 
 the joke. Therefore our worthy friend imi")roved the 
 occasion to remind us of the wish expressed before 
 leaving home, to read the account of the planting and 
 destruction of the French colony of Mount Desert, on 
 the ground, and amid the scenes where the events oc- 
 curred. We therefore decided to have a Morning with 
 the Jesuits. Mr. Oldstyle accordingly produced a roll 
 of manuscript containing a translation of Father 
 Biard's Narrative, as given in the first volume of 
 the lidations des Jesuitcs, recently published at 
 (Juebec, "a better knowledge of which," said Mr. 
 Oldstyle, as he looked up at us over his spectacles, 
 " would have saved many writers on this subject from 
 serious blunders." 
 
 It is a notable fact that this subject has often 
 been treated with perfect recklessness. Bancroft 
 states in the earlier editions of his History that 
 
A Rainy Morning with the 'Jesuits. 
 
 25 
 
 t was 
 that it 
 itiqua- 
 ion at 
 Lircole, 
 
 "Yes, 
 <ph on 
 •. 01(1- 
 h such 
 lie dig- 
 .ed, the 
 oiiit of 
 vcd the 
 
 before 
 ing and 
 ;sert, on 
 lents ce- 
 ll g with 
 d a roll 
 
 Father 
 
 lume of 
 
 Ihed at 
 
 id Mr. 
 
 ctacles, 
 
 ct from 
 
 IS often 
 Bancroft 
 ly that 
 
 the French Colony of St. Savior was established on the 
 *' north bank of the Penobscot," while his last revision 
 puts it on the east side of the Isle of Mount Desert. 
 The date of this attempt at colonization by the French 
 has seldom been stated with any accuracy, while in re- 
 gard to the period of time spent by the French on the 
 island few seem to have known anything at all. Some 
 observations to this effect were made, and attention was 
 called to the fact that the old inhabitants of the isle were 
 reckless on this point. Whereupon Aureole confidently 
 offered the opinion that history was " all bosh, any 
 
 »> 
 
 way 
 
 ^Ii*. Oldstyle received this remark of his young re- 
 lative with silent indignation; yet, while proceeding to 
 unroll his manuscript, he took occasion to confess that 
 history, and especially American history, was often 
 pursued in a spirit productive of little real good, the 
 truth being too often lield subservient to popular 
 tradition. 
 
 Mr. Oldstyle, though somewhat advanced in years, 
 evidently leaned toward the new school of history, 
 now springing up, which is devoted to the elucida- 
 tion of Truth, without any reference to its cost. lie 
 did not, however, think it worth while to enter upon a 
 discussion of these points ; and, accordingly, after 
 briefly stating the reasons which led the French col- 
 onists to establish themselves on the coast of Maine, 
 hi 1013, he began as follows: 
 
irr 
 
 26 A RatJiy Moaning zvith the ycsuiis, 
 
 iTatljci* Uiavb's lUlation, 
 
 "We were detained five days at Port Eoyal, by ad- 
 verse winds, when a favorable north-caster having 
 arisen, we set out with the intention of sailing up 
 Pentcgoet [Penobscot] River, to a jilace called Kades- 
 quit, which had been allotted for our new residence, 
 and which possessed great advantages for this purpose. 
 But God willed otherwise, for when we had reached 
 the south-eastern coast of the Island of Menan, the 
 weather changed, and the sea was covered with a fog 
 60 dense that we could not distinguish day from night. 
 We were greatly alarmed, for this place is full of 
 breakers and rocks, upon which, in the darkness, we 
 feared our vessel might drift. The wind not permit- 
 ting us to put out to sea, we remained in this position 
 two days and two nights, veering sometimes to one 
 side, sometimes to another, as God inspired us. Our 
 tribulation led us to pray to God to dcli\ cr us from 
 danger, and send us to some place where we might 
 contribute to His glory. He heard us, in His mercy, 
 for on the same evening we began to discover the stars, 
 and in the morning the fog had cleared away. We 
 then discovered that we were near the coast of Mount 
 Desert, an island which the savages call Pemetic. 
 The pilot steered towards the eastern shore, and land- 
 ed us in a large and beautiful harbor. We returned 
 thanks to God, elevating the Cross, and singing praises 
 with the holy Sacrifice of the Mass. We named the 
 place and harbor St. Savior.'* 
 
A Rainy Morning witJi tJie Jesuits, 
 
 ^7 
 
 This harbor, Mr. Oldstyle thought, w'as North-east 
 Harbor, though, in the absence of authorities, he 
 would not be too positive. lie then continued : 
 
 " Now in this port of St. Savior a violent quarrel 
 arose between our sailors and crew and the other pas- 
 sengers. The cause of it vvas that the charter granted, 
 and the agreement made in France, was to the effect 
 that the said sailors should be bound to put into any 
 port in Acadia that we should designate, and should 
 remain there three months. The sailors maintained 
 that they had arrived in a port in Acadia, and that 
 the said term of three months ought to date from this 
 arrival. To this it was answered that this port was 
 not the one designated, which was Kadesquit, and 
 therefore that the time they were in St. Savior was 
 not to be taken into account. The pilot held obsti- 
 nately to a contrary opinion, maintaining that no ves- 
 sel had ever landed at Kadesquit, and that he did not 
 wish to become a discoverer of new routes. There 
 was much argument for and against these views, dis- 
 cussions were being carried on incessantly, a bad omen 
 for the future. 
 
 "While this question was pending," says the Father, 
 *'the Savages made a fire, in order that we might see 
 the smoke. This signal meant that they had observed 
 us, and wished to know if we needed them, which wo 
 did. The pilot took the opportunity to tell them that 
 the Fathers from Port Royal were in his ship. The 
 Sav-ages replied that they would be very glad to see one 
 
28 A Rainy Morning with the Jesuits. 
 
 whom they had known at Pentegoet two years before. 
 This was Father Biarcl, who went immediately to see 
 them, and inquired the route to Kadesquit, informing 
 them that he intended to reside there. ^But,' said 
 they, ' if you desire to remain there, why do you not 
 remain instead with us, who have as good a place as 
 Kadesquit is?' They then began to praise their set- 
 tlement, assuring him that it was so healthy and so 
 pleasant, that when the natives were sick anywhere 
 else they were brought there and were cured. These 
 eulogies did not greatly impress Father Biard, because 
 he knew sufficiently well that the Savages, like other 
 people, overrated, sometimes, their own possessions. 
 Nevertheless, they understood how to induce him to 
 remain, for they said : ' You nmst come, for our Sag- 
 amore Asticou is dangerously ill, and if you do not 
 come, he will die without baptism, and will not go to 
 heaven, and you will be the cause of it, for he wishes 
 to be baptized.' The reason, so naturally given, made 
 Father Biard hesitate, and they finally persuaded him 
 to go, since he had but three leagues to travel, and 
 there would be no greater loss of time than a single 
 afternoon." 
 
 Here the reader paused to tell us that one edition 
 of Biard says that this spot was separated from the 
 inland of Mount Desert, which, by the French, was 
 supposed to include only the land lying east of Somes' 
 Sound. He then continued: 
 
 "We embarked in their canoe with Sicnr do la 
 Motte, and Simon, the Interpreter, and we set out. 
 
A Rainy Morning with the ycstiits. 29 
 
 " When we arrived at Asticou's wigwam, we foiincl 
 him ill, but not dangerously so, for he was only suf- 
 fering from rheumatism ; and finding this, we decided 
 to pay a visit to the place which the Indians had 
 boasted was so much better than Kadesquit for the res- 
 idence of Frenchmen. We found that the Savaws 
 had in reality reasonable grounds for their eulogies. 
 We felt very well satisfied with it ourselves, and, hav- 
 ing brought these tidingi to the remainder of the crew, 
 it was unanimously agreed that we should remain 
 there, and not seek further, seeing that God himself 
 seemed to intend it, by the train of happy accidents 
 that had occurred, and by the miraculous cure of a 
 child, which I shall relate elsewhere. 
 
 "This place is a beautiful hill, sloping gently from 
 the sea-shore, and supplied with water by a spring on 
 each side. The ground comprises from twenty-five to 
 thirty acres, covered with grass, which, in some places, 
 reaches the height of a man. It fronts the south and 
 east, towards Pentegoet Bay, into which are discharged 
 the waters of several pretty streams, abounding in 
 fish. The soil is rich and fertile. The port and har- 
 bor are the finest possible, in a position commanding 
 the entire coast; the harbor especially is smooth as a 
 pond, being shut in by the large island of Mount Des- 
 ert, besides being surrounded by certain small islands 
 which break the force of the winds and waves, and 
 fortify the entrance. It is large enough to hold any 
 fleet, and is navigable for the largest ships up to a 
 
30 
 
 A Rainy Aloiming with the ycsidts. 
 
 cable's length from the shore. It is in latitade forty- 
 four and one-half degrees north, a position more 
 northerly than that of Bordeaux." 
 
 Mr. Oldstyle here also gave as his opinion that the 
 place finally fixed upon as the site for their new habi- 
 tation was located on the western side of Somes' 
 Sound, on the farm of Mr. Fernald. The reader then 
 vrcnt on : 
 
 "When we had landed in this place, and planted 
 the Cross, we began to work, and with the work be- 
 gan our disputes, the omen and origin of our misfor- 
 tunes. The cause of these disj^utes w^as that our Cap- 
 tain, La Saussaye, wished to attend to agriculture, and 
 our other leaders besought him not to occupy the 
 Vv'orkmen in that manner, and so delay the erection of 
 dwellings and fortifications.^ He would not comply 
 with their request, and from these disputes arose oth- 
 ers, which lasted until the English obliged us to make 
 peace in the manner I am about to relate." 
 
 Mr. Oldstyle omitted Biard's statement of the posi« 
 tion of the English in America, in which he declares 
 that the distance intervening between their colony and 
 those of the French rendered all quarreling needless. 
 Continuing: 
 
 "The English colonists in Virginia are in the habit 
 of coming every year to the islands of Pencoit, twen- 
 
 (1) llorc Faflicr Biard leaves it undecided wlictlicr any fortiflca- 
 tioiis were put up ; but Charlevoix eaj s that they " hastily threw up 
 a slight entrenchment." 
 
A Rainy Morning ivith tJic ycsiiits. 3 1 
 
 ty-five leagues from St. Savior, in order to provide 
 food [fisli] for the winter. AVliile on their way, as 
 usual, in the summer of the year IGl^, they were over- 
 taken out at sea by fogs and mists, which in this region 
 often overspread both land and sea, in summer. 
 These lasted some days, during which the tide drifted 
 them gradually farther than they intended. They 
 were about eighty leagues farther in New France than 
 thoy supposed, but they did not recognize the place." 
 Here our excellent friend, who never hesitated to 
 call a spade a spade, explained to us that this was the 
 ship of Samuel Argall, ostensibly a trader, but prac- 
 tically a pirate, like a large number of men of his 
 class, who, in those early times, roved the seas. lie 
 had sailed the previous JMay for the Isles of Shoals, 
 to catch codlish, in a vessel carrying fourteen guns and 
 sixty men, and now he had lost his reckoning in the 
 fog, and improved the occasion to murder and plunder 
 the French. In his letter to Nicholas Ilawes, said Mr. 
 Oldstyle, sarcastically, he speaks of his fisliing voyage, 
 in which he beseeches " God of his mercy to bless us." 
 Aureole put in the remark, that " lie was doubtless as 
 respectable a man as a good many others never found 
 out;" which remark, though felt, was ignored, as 
 Mr. Oldstyle was somewhat averse to the encourage- 
 ment of such unsettling opinions among the young. 
 Failing in this, the festive Aureole, who had been 
 sitting astride his chair, with his chin resting upon 
 the top bar, looking out of the window, now fancied 
 
i 
 
 32 
 
 A Rainy Morning wit/: tJie ycsuits. 
 
 he saw a sliip nmning into the harbor, tlirough the 
 driving rain and fog. lie consequently interrul^ted 
 the reading by calling the company to view this 
 unexpected visitor, while Mr. Oldstyle laid aside his 
 spectacles, and aimed mine host's spy-glass toward the 
 point indicated by Aureole. But nothing could be 
 seen, while Aureole himself suggested that it was the 
 Flying Dutchman. Mr. Oldstyle, however, suspected 
 that it was simply a ruse to break up the reading, 
 which Aureole viewed as a sort of bore. Never- 
 theless, we all took our seats again, except Aureole, 
 who went to look into the condition of his fishing- 
 tackle, while Mr. Oldstyle benignantly put on hia 
 spectacles to resume the story. But the remainder 
 must be reserved for the next chapter. 
 
 
A RAINY MORNING WITH 
 THE JESUITS, 
 
 [CONTINUED.] 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 AiiGALL ArrKARS — Tin: Fight — The ScRiiENDEn — Death 
 or i)U Tiiet — The Fate of the Fuench — Argall's 
 
 DeTAUTURE and KeTURX — BlARD. 
 
 ILENCE once more prevailed in our little 
 circle, though the storm continued with- 
 out, and as we glanced across South-west 
 Harbor, we saw that 
 
 " Thro' ficudiling drifts the rainy Ilyadcs 
 Vcxt the dim sea." 
 
 Accordingly Mr. Oldstylc resumed the story, as fol- 
 lows : 
 
 " Some Savages observed their vessel and went to 
 mcco them, supposing them to be Frenchmen in search 
 of them. The English understood nothing of what 
 the Savages said, but conjectured from their signs that 
 there was a vessel near, and that this vessel was 
 French. They understood the word 'Normans,' 
 which the Savages called us, and in the polite gestures 
 of the natives, thev recoixnized the French ceremo- 
 
34 '^ Rainy Morning with the ycsuits, 
 
 nies of courtesy. Tiien the Englisli, wlio were in 
 need of provisions, and of every thing else, ragged, 
 half naked, and in search of jdunder, inquired care- 
 fully how large our vessel was, how many canoes we 
 had, how many men, etc., and having received a satis- 
 factory answer, uttered cries of joy, demonstrating 
 that they had found what they wanted, and that they 
 intended to attack us. The Savages did not interpret 
 it so, however, for they supposed the English to be 
 our friends, who desired earnestly so see us. Accord- 
 ingly one of them guided the English to our vessel. 
 As soon as the English saw us they began to prepare 
 for combat, and their guide then saw that he had made 
 a mistake, and began to weep and curse those who had 
 deceived him. Many times afterwards he wept and 
 implored pardon for his error of us, and of the other 
 Savages, because they wished to avenge our misfor- 
 tunes on him, believing that he had acted through 
 malice. 
 
 " On seeing this vessel approach us, we knew not 
 whether we were to see friends or enemies, Fiench- 
 men or foreigners. The pilot therefore went forward 
 in a sloop to reconnoitre, while the rest were arming 
 themselves. La Saussaye remained ashore, and with 
 him the greater number of the men. Lieutenant La 
 Motte, Ensign Ronfere, Sergeant Joubert, and the rest 
 wxnt on board the ship. 
 
 *' The English vessel moved quickly as an arrow, hav- 
 ing the wind astern. It was hung at the waist with red, 
 
A Rainy Morning ivitJi the ycsnits. 35 
 
 the arms of P^ngland floated over it, and three trum- 
 pets and two drums were ready to sound. Our pilot, 
 who had gone forward to reconnoitre, did not return 
 to the ship, fearing, as he said, to fall into their hands, 
 to avoid which, he rowed himself around an island. 
 Thus the ship did not contain one-half its crew, and 
 was defended only by ten men, of whom but one. Cap- 
 tain Flory, had had any experience in naval con- 
 tests. Although not wanting in prudence or courage, 
 the Captain had not time to prepare for a coniiict, nor 
 had his crew ; there was not even time to weigh an- 
 chor, so as to disengage the ship, which is the first 
 step to be taken in sea fights. It would, however, 
 have been of little use to weigh the anchor, since the 
 Bails were fastened ; for, being summer, they had ar- 
 ranged them as an awning to shade the decks. This 
 mishaji, however, had a good result, for our men being 
 sheltered during the combat, and the English unable 
 to take aim at them, fewer of them were killed or 
 wounded. 
 
 "As soon as they approached, our sailors hailed 
 them, but the English replied only by cries of men- 
 ace, and by discharges of musketry and cannon. They 
 had fourteen pieces of artillery and sixty artillerymen, 
 who ranged themselves along the side of their vessel, 
 firing rapidly, without taking aim. The first discharge 
 was terrible ; the whole ship was shrouded in fire and 
 smoke. On our side the guns remained silent. Cap- 
 tain Flory cried out, ' Put the cannon in position/ but 
 
1 
 
 36 A Raijiy Morning iintJi the Jesuits. 
 
 tlie gnnnor was absent. Father Gilbert du Tliet, who 
 had never been guilty of cowardice in liis life, hearing 
 the Captain's order, and seeing tliat no one obeyed, 
 took the match and fired the cannon as loudlv as the 
 enemy's. The misfortune was tliat he did not aim 
 carefully ; had he done so, probably something more 
 useful tlian noise would have occurred. 
 
 *' TJie English, after their first attack, prepared to 
 board our vessel. Captain Flory cut the cable, and 
 thus arrested for a time the progress of the enemy. 
 T'loy then prepared to fire another volley, and in this 
 du Thet was wounded by a musket, and fell across 
 the helm. Captain Flory and three other men wxre 
 also wounded, and they cried out that they surren- 
 dered. The English, on bearing this cry, went into 
 their boat to board our vessel, our men imprudently 
 rushed into tlieirs in order to put off to shore before 
 the arrival of the victors. The conquerors cried out to 
 them to return, as otherwise they would fire on them, 
 and two of our men, in their terjor, threw themselves 
 into the water and were drowned, cither because they 
 were wounded or, more probably, were shot while in 
 the water. They were both promising young men, 
 one named LcMoine, from Dieppe, and the other 
 named Ncnen, from Beauvais. Their bodies were 
 found nine days afterwards, and carefully interred. 
 Such was the history of the capture of our vessel." 
 
 Here the Honorary Member iiKjuired if Mr. Ban- 
 croft did not say in his notice of the event that the 
 
A Rainy JMovjiing ivith the yes u its. 37 
 
 lie in 
 
 were 
 
 English bombarded the French fort. Mr. Oldst} le re- 
 plied that he did, but that his statement lacked author- 
 tty ; for himself, he would not take anything without 
 "authority." 
 
 '' Just so,'' said the Honorary Member ; while tlie 
 Reader went on to recite, not wholly without indigna- 
 tion, the story of Argall's perfidy : 
 
 "The victorious lMi«jjlishmen made a landinij in the 
 place where we had begun to erect our tents and 
 dwellings, and searched our Captain to fmd his com- 
 mission, saying that the land was theirs, but that if 
 we would show that wo had acted in good faith, and 
 under the authority of our Prince, they would not 
 drive us away, since they did not wish to imperil the 
 amicable relations between our two Sovereigns. The 
 trouble was that they did not find La Saussaye, but 
 they seized his des;k, searched it carefully, and having 
 found our commissions and royal letters, seized them, 
 then putting everything in its place, they closed and 
 locked the desk. On the next day, when he saw La 
 Saussaye, the English Captain welcomed him politely, 
 and then asked to see his commission. La Saussaye 
 replied that his papers were in his desk, which was 
 accordingly brought to him, and he found that it was 
 locked and in perfect order, but that the papers were 
 missing. The English captain immediately changed 
 his tone and manner, saying, ' Then, sir, you are im- 
 l)Osing on us. You give us to understand that you 
 hold a commissiou from your King, and yet you can 
 
38 A Rainy Morning zuith tJic ycsnits. 
 
 produce no evidence of if. You are all rogues and 
 l>irate.s, and deserve deatli.' He then granted permis- 
 ftiun to his soldiers to plunder us, in which work they 
 spent the entire afternoon. We witnessed the destruc- 
 tion of our property from the shore, the Englishmen 
 having fastened our vessels to theirs, for we had two, 
 our ship and a boat newly constructed and equipped. 
 We were thus reduced to a miserahle condition, and 
 this w^as not all. Next day they landed and robbed 
 us of all we still possessed, destroying also our cloth- 
 ing and other things. At one time they committed 
 some personal violence on two of our peo})le, which 
 so enraged them that they tied into the woods, like 
 poor crazed creatures, half naked, and without any 
 food, not knowing what was to become of them." 
 
 We now come, said Mr. Oldstyle, to learn the 
 fate of the brave ecclesiastic, who, while professional 
 soldiers fled, had the courage to stand by the guns: 
 
 "To return to the Jesuits: I have told you that 
 Father du Thet was wounded by a musket-shot dur- 
 ing the light. The Lnglish, on entering our ship, 
 placed him under the care of their surgeon, along with 
 the other wounded men. This surgeon was a Catho- 
 lic, and a very charitable man, and he treated us with 
 great kindness. Father l>iard, knowing that Father 
 du Thet was wounded, asked the Captain to allow him 
 to be carried ashore, so that he had an oi)portunity to 
 reccivo the last Sacraments, and to praise the just and 
 merciful God, in company with his brethren. He 
 
A Rainy Morning with the ycsitits. 39 
 
 the 
 Glial 
 Inns : 
 hat 
 dur- 
 hip, 
 with 
 tho- 
 ith 
 ther 
 liim 
 y to 
 and 
 He 
 
 died with much resignation, calmness, and devotion, 
 twenty-four hours after he was wounded. Thus his 
 prayers were granted, for, on our departure from Ilon- 
 lieur, he had raised his hands and eyes toward heaven, 
 praying that he might return no more to France, hut 
 that he might die hiboring for the salvation of i-ouls, 
 and especially of the St?' \ges. He was buried the 
 same day at the foot of a large cross which we had 
 erected on our arrival. 
 
 ''It was not till then that the English recognized 
 the Jesuits to be priests. Father liiard and Father 
 Kiinemond Masse went to the ship to speak to the 
 English captain, and explained frankly to him that 
 they w ere Jesuits, w ho had travelled into thei-e regions 
 to convert the Savages. Then they implored him, by 
 the blood of Him whom thev both acknow le(l<red as 
 their Redeemer, and ])y the mercy they hojied for, that 
 he would liave pity on the poor Frenchmen, whom 
 God had placed in his power, that he would liberate 
 them, and permit them to return to France. The Cap- 
 tain heard them quietly, and answered them respect- 
 fullv. 'But,' said he, 'I wonder that vou Jesuils, who 
 are generally supi)osed to be conscientious and relig- 
 ious men, should be here in com})any w ith robbers and 
 pirates, peojde without law or religion.' 
 
 '• Father Biard replied to him, i)roving that all the 
 crew were good men, and approved by his ]Most 
 Christian INIajesty, and refuted so positively the objec- 
 tions of the English captain, that the latter was obliged 
 
40 A Rainy Morning luith the ycsniis. 
 
 to pretend to be coiivir.ccd. 'Certainly,' f^aid he, 'it 
 was very wrong to lose your letters patent. However, 
 I shall talk with your captain abciit sending yen heme.' 
 And from that time, he made the two Fathers share 
 his table, showing them much kindness and respect. 
 But one thing annoyed him greatly, the escape cf the 
 liilot and sailors, of whcm he could hear nothing. The 
 ])ilot was a native of Ecuen, named Le Taillcnr ; he 
 liad gone away to reconnoitre, as I Lave alicady men- 
 tioned, and being unable to return to the ship in time, 
 he stayed apart in his sloop, and when night fell, took 
 with him the other sailors, and placed himself in secu- 
 rity from the i;ower of the Englidn At night he came 
 to advise with us as to what he had better do. IIo 
 did this to oblige the Jesuits, for he came to Father 
 Biard, and taking his hand, legged him not to distrust 
 him, assuring him that he wculel be faithful to him anel 
 the other Fathers. As he seemeel to speak sincerely, 
 Father Biard thankcel him allectionately, anel juxm- 
 ised to remember his kindness. The Father also said 
 that he would not think of himself until the others 
 had set out, that then he would seek counsel of God; 
 and he warned the pilot not to fall into the hands cf 
 the English, because the captain was very anxious to 
 catch him. The pilot profited b^^ the warr.ing, for in 
 two or three days after, he retired behinel seme cf the 
 islands, to be in shelter, anel to walch for what might 
 happen. The Engli^ih captain then resolveel not to in- 
 ilict any further injury on us, althcugh he might have 
 
A Rainy Morning with tJic ycs2iits. 41 
 
 ;f 
 o 
 n 
 
 It 
 
 desired to do so, as I conjectuicd by his previous cuii' 
 duct, lie was a very able and artful man, but never- 
 theless a gentleman and a man cf courage. His crew 
 were neither cruel or unkind to anj'' cf us." 
 
 The narrative was concluded as follows: *'It is dif- 
 ficult to believe how much sorniw we experienced dur- 
 ing this time, for we did not knew what was to be our 
 fate. On the one hand, we expected either death or 
 slavery frcm the English ; aid en the other, to leniain 
 in this country and live an entiie year iimcng the Sav- 
 oges, seemed to us a lii.gcring and \ ainful death. The 
 Savages, having heard cf cur dii^asters, came to us and 
 offered to do all in their power for us, promising to 
 feed us during the winter, and t: bowing us great kind- 
 ness. But we could not S:ee any hope before us, and 
 we did not know how we could live in such a desert." 
 
 Mr. Oldstyle then told us, in brief, how a way \\as 
 opened for their disposition by this man whom the 
 Jesuit, who was soured against the French leaders, 
 curiously praises as a gentleman. La Saussaye, Father 
 Masse, and thirteen others w ere mercilessly cast oft' in 
 an open beat, instead cf beirg put en bcaid a Fiench 
 vessel, as Bancroft says. This company, when joined 
 among the islands b\ the pilot and his boat, who lied 
 };rcvious to the fight, made their wa}' eastward by the 
 aid of oars, coasting chiefly along the ^hore until, 
 on the southern coast of No\a Scotia, they found 
 tvvo trading-vessels, in which they secured a passage to 
 St. Malo. On the other hand, Father Liard and thir- 
 
1 ''- 
 
 42 A Rainy Morning ivitJi the ycsuits. 
 
 
 teen of the company were carried prisoners to Vir- 
 ginia, where Sir Thomas Dale, Governor of Virginia, 
 threatened them with tlie halter, so that Argall was 
 finally obliged to confess that he had stolen the com- 
 mission of La Saussaye from his desk at Monnt Desert. 
 This theft was perpetrated to justify his own ])iracy, 
 for which he richly deserved to suffer the penalty of 
 the law, as the two nations were then at peace, and no 
 excuse whatever could be urged for this cruel deed. 
 Yet, said the narrator, they were not even satisfied 
 with the wrong and mischief that they had actually 
 done, and Argall soon fitted out his own shi]) and the 
 captured vessel of La Saussaye, together with a third 
 smaller vessel, for the purpose of destroying Port 
 Koyal. In this expedition they were accompanied by 
 Father Biard, who, according to certain English and 
 French writers, encouraged the attack " out of indi- 
 gestible malice " (Purchas, Vol. iv. 1808,) which he had 
 conceived against his old enemy, Biencourt, then in 
 charge at that jilace. Biard himself gives the con- 
 trary imi)ression, yet he allows that both the French 
 and Englisli looked upon him as a traitor ; and, while 
 the English desired to hang him, one of the French 
 ended a parley with him at Port Poyal by saying, 
 '•Begone, or I will sjdit your head with this liatchet." 
 Mr. Oldstyle thought that the Jesuit's character 
 needed looking into ; yet he went on to tell us how 
 Argall sailed the second time for St. Savior, expect- 
 ing to find that another ship had arrived frora France, 
 
A Rainy Morning zvith the ycsnits. 43 
 
 being still bent on plunder. But he met no one except 
 peaceful Indians. Landing at this beautiful i)lace, the 
 English destroyed everything that remained. Says 
 Father Biard, "They burnt our fortifications and 
 pulled down our crosses, and put up one as a sign that 
 they were taking j^ossession of the land as Lords. 
 This cross had the name of the King of Great Britain 
 engraved upon it." 
 
 Argall continued here some time, long enough 
 indeed for one of his men to attempt a conspiracy 
 against him, and thus these thieves fell out among 
 themselves. Yet the plan failed, and Father Biard 
 writes that " they also hanged one of their men for a 
 conspiracy in the same place where eiirht davs before 
 they had taken down the first of our crosses." 
 
 This ended Mr. Oldstyle's story, for which we all 
 felt greatly obliged, the feeling of the party culminat- 
 ing in a vote of thanks. 
 
 The Colony of St. Savior therefore perished. For 
 this high-handed outrage the French, owing to the 
 disturbed condition of European politics, were unable 
 to obtain proper indemnification. Madame de Guer- 
 cheville only succeeded in recovering La Saussaye's 
 ship. 
 
 As it may be interesting to the reader to learn the 
 fate of Father Biard, we may relate here that Argall's 
 fleet, on its return to Virginia from the destruction of 
 Port Royal, was overtaken by a gale, in which one 
 vessel was lost, while that in which the Jesuit saUed 
 
i 
 
 ii 
 
 44 A Rainy Morning with the Jesuits. 
 
 was driven to the Azores. The Commandei', Liettt- 
 enant Turnel, afterwards decided to sail to Pembrolio 
 m Wales, where Fatlier IJiard was set asliore, bein^ 
 well received by the Protestant Ecclesiastics. From 
 tlienco ho went to Franco, where, as a theological 
 Professor, ho perhaps found more quiet employment 
 for a time, though he ended his days as a chaplain in 
 tlic army. 
 
SOJri^S' SOUND. 
 
 CIlAPTEIi V. 
 
 SOUTII-M'EST IlAUnOK— FlKST ImPUKSSIONTS — TlIE SOUN'D 
 
 — TiiK ScEXKRY — Fkrnald's 1*01X1 — Tiii: rilKNCIl — 
 Biakd's Spring — Dog Mountain — Monkv Diggkus. 
 
 UMMEU tourists who enter ]\rount Des- 
 ert by tlie \v;iv of Soiitli-wcst IIiirl)or -aw. 
 liable to receive verv iintUvoral)lt; iin- 
 
 « 
 
 pressions of tliis beautiful island. While 
 approaching the shore, tlie most charming views are 
 obtained, but after the first salutation tlieir majesties 
 the mountains become shv, and when the steamer 
 reaches the pier they are wlioUy lost to sight. On 
 landing, an ancient, fish-like smell is found to pervade 
 the air around the dock in the vicinity of the lobster- 
 boiling establishment, while the general aspect of the 
 place is hardly inviting. By crossing the harbor to 
 the Ocean House, the view of the mountains may 
 indeed be regained, yet the prospect from the east 
 side is tame. 
 
 Still no one should .*^el discouraged, since many of 
 the chief attractions of jMount Desert are situated 
 within a short distance of the villaixe, where the 
 visitor, if he is wise, will spend at least a third of the 
 
46 
 
 Somes' Sound. 
 
 time allotted to liis sojourn on the island. One of \\\r\ 
 loveliest i)laces thus aceessihle is '' Somes' Souud,'' u 
 body of water, six or seven miles long, formed by an 
 arm of the sea, which nearly divides the island in the 
 middle. Admirable views of the sound may be en- 
 joyed by a walk of live or ten minutes from the hotels 
 to the east side of Clark's Point, where is found a 
 rockv shore well sutted to summer idlinfj. Yet the 
 best way to explore this i)art of the island is to take 
 a boat and sail leisurel; up to Somesville. It is the 
 custom to start from South-west Harbor, and, round- 
 ing Clark's Point, to steer for Fernald's Point. The 
 scenery thus a})pears to the best advantage. As we 
 proceed, the sound, which is about two miles wide at 
 the entrance, assumes the character of a noble river, 
 fenced in by rugged mountains and fair green hills, 
 the margin being diversified by points and coves. 
 From a distance, looking up the sound, the view 
 resembles that of the Delaware Water Gap, while on 
 a nearer ap[>roach it forcibly brings to mind the 
 Hudson at the Highlands. But here, however, there 
 are no unsightly w^orks of man to mar the prospect. 
 An occasional cottage may be seen nestling among 
 the hills, and the fishing-smack is found at anchor, the 
 crew busily engaged in setting their nets, but other- 
 wise nature appears in all her untamed wildness. 
 
 The entrance to the sound is shut in by islands, so 
 that we do not realize our nearness to the sea ; yet 
 here, under the shadow of the hills, where we are 
 
Sovics Sound, ^-j 
 
 often reminded of Lake George, tlie ilsher-boy lianls up 
 the i.ortly cod and the liaddock, whih) anon the \\]h)1o 
 surface ripples with schools of herring and menhaden. 
 The sound cuts through the centre of the mountain- 
 range at right angles between Dog iMotintain and 
 Mount Mansell, wliich name we gave to the elevation 
 on the eastern side, partly because it lias heretofore 
 had no recognized name, but more especially for the 
 reason that at an early period the whole island was so 
 called by the English, in honor of Sir Robert Mansell. 
 This mountain is of no considerable height, yet it lends 
 great beauty to the prospect, its summit being more 
 or less bare. Dog Mountain, however, attains a line 
 elevation, and reflects its perpendicular face in the 
 deep waters that sparkle around its feet. Through 
 the splendid gateway formed by these two mountains, 
 we pass into the broader waters beyond, and gain a 
 glimpse of the pastoral scenery which is found around 
 Somesville. 
 
 Within the protecting reaches of Somes' Sound, the 
 French decided to establish their new home. We 
 have already seen that the precise spot was at what is 
 now known as Fernald's Point. Towards this place 
 we laid our course with no little interest the first time 
 we were out boating, after the recital of Father 
 Biard's Narrative when storm-bound at the inn. It 
 was a charming day, and nearly the entire mountain- 
 range could be clearly distinguished, though the east- 
 ern sections were the most prominent, Green Moun- 
 
48 
 
 Somes Sound. 
 
 tain liAiiiir itself iihove all the rest, crowned by tlie 
 little |)iil)lic house which mjiiks its top. A i)leasunt 
 breeze soon carried us on to Fernald's Point, a beau- 
 tiful grassy piece of land which swee])s gently up from 
 the; shoi-t3, precisely as Father Biard describes it, ter- 
 minating in a small but fuiely formed rid^e of 
 naked j-ock. Landing here, we walked over the 
 ground, which^ includes very nearly the precise num- 
 ber of acres indicated by the Relation, nnd which are 
 characterized by a rich and fertile soil. Here we 
 looked down \\\.q.\ the harbor, ^' smooth as a pond," with 
 the bold water navigable for the largest ships, " up to 
 within a cable's leiiglh of the shore," and the entrance 
 strongly fortilied against wind and weather by rock- 
 bound yet sunny isles. 
 
 The account says that the pdace where the French 
 settled, was " shut in by the large island of Mount 
 Desert," a statement that a[)pears to have misled some 
 l)ersons. The explanation was briefly given in a 
 pi'evious cha[)ter, where the reader was informed that 
 the French supposed the land on the Avest side of tlie 
 sound to be wholly separated from that on the east, 
 which, on account of the barren aspect of the moun- 
 tains, they called Mount Desert. And now here lay 
 before us the same old mountains of which the priest 
 wrote. Mr. Oldstyle was charmed with the exactness 
 of the description, which he rightly declared lo }io 
 l)hotographic, and incapable of application to auv 
 other spot on the coast of JMaino. > 
 
Somi-s Sound. 
 
 49 
 
 d 
 
 WlHlo at ,I,c fann-lu,„.c, ,ve i,„i„i,o,I if ,„o,.o 
 
 >rcrcanys,,nM.sof„.uc.,-„„,l„.|' ,, us Hianl savs 
 
 at ■yMvass.p;,liM,viH,uaU.H,y.s,,Hn. ,,,...:.,. 
 
 '."■ ,/'7 ''""■>■ ^^-^'^ l"-"">l'lly anMve.v,l l.v M,. 
 
 I'enul,Uvl„.k.,l„stoa.s,„in.o„,I,e ea.t .si,i;., .,,,1 
 
 o- also „. ,,.e ,vost. That on .he .ast .i,,e „.„ ,•„,„ 
 
 ho oun,l. Its ou.let l,as boeu ...ea.ly ,li.stu,..,e.t bv 
 
 neann. away of U,c shore, yot ,v. i;.,„„, „,; 
 
 'Uo .s„il n.nn,,,.-. That ,„. ,hc west sMo of ,ho 
 
 lon,tovoHl.wsi,,toalutloc:ne, boiU,,, ,,,, outof 
 tie .a,Kl wuh consi,leral,lo force. At hi^h ,i,le ,he 
 
 -lUvaterWsintoit.yetw.hea,he,i,h/;ee.,e:.t 
 spnng 1.S fonncl as pure an.l f.^osh as I„.f,ro. This 
 
 B!.n.,g was n,nni„g here whe:., he ancestors of, ho 
 
 I'en,aldshrstset,leaonU,ehHH,,anaisbevon,l,,„es 
 "on the K,en.cal spru,. at wl,ich ,he Jesuit Fa hl^ 
 
 qncnchcltheir thirst in the nnnmer of l(;i;! Tl,e 
 "■ater as coW and inexhans.ible, iishin,Mleet.; often 
 connng Ijero in dry season, wlien tiie wells fail, to i^Il 
 then- tanks and casks. 
 
 Of French relies there are none. The shell-hcaps 
 ^con near the shore mnst be relerred to the India, s 
 who evidently dwelt upon this sightlv p.-ace. ^e 
 
 8.-avcs of te French kilied in the°ii,ht\vi,hA,i 
 a^•o never bee,> di.-covered. Father Vetromile, inl.is 
 o.-k on the Abcnakis Indians, indeed gives a nctnr 
 u po, ung ,0 represent the grave of d,. TI,et. yet the 
 B^etch . a pure fancy, designed perhaps to in>pre 
 the ..»agnuu,on of the faitittnl. At a. ea.ly plriod 
 
50 
 
 Somes Sound. 
 
 i 
 
 every vestige of the French completely passed away. 
 Back of Flviiiir ^lountain, and <Uroctlv under ICacle 
 CliiV, in Dog ^Mountain, we were shown trenches, re- 
 cently opened in connection with holes in the gronnd. 
 having the appearance of ancient cellars. Our fiiend 
 Aurc(jle, who went with us, made light of these 
 " cellars,'' wliile ]Mr. Oldstyle demonstrated that thev 
 were formed, like many others which he afterward 
 showed in the w^oods, by the upturning of large trees. 
 The parties who opened these trenches gave us the 
 impression that they were laboring in the interests of 
 history, vet our own view is that they were inlhienced 
 by the mania for money-digging, of which something 
 is to be said by and by. They evidently hoped to find 
 treasure buried by the French. 
 
 We left the place and returned to the Point, which 
 ought to be known as St. Savior, since tlie French 
 evidently transferred the name given to their lirst 
 landing-place to this ; and, after drinking once moi"e 
 from the sparkling water of Father Biard's Spring, wc 
 embarked and sailed past Flying IMountain, landing 
 u})on the shore of the cove, not far from our irlend's 
 "cellars." Here a wrecked llshing-smack Iny, quietly 
 going to ])ieces. The place is one of very great 
 beauty, being hemmed in on the west by Fagle Cliff, 
 wdiich rises to a heijjht of eiu'ht or nine hundred feet. 
 
 Near this cliiT is another, in the ftice of the same 
 mountain. It looks down upon the deep water of 
 the sound, which is navigable for large vessels up to 
 
Siuin's' Sound. 
 
 51 
 
 
 Its vcrv base. It is nltc^jnjellicr tlic most woiido'/fiil 
 clilV on {\u\ island, the liTanitc faces, r.early 11 tlnMi- 
 sand feet liii'li, ])einjx inaccessibl(3 to mortals. Wo 
 brougiit our boat under tliis dreadful i^recipice, where 
 we could look up squarely into the crags. The view is 
 sublime, but the posiiion was one iu which we did not 
 care to linger, as in many places detached r(;cks of 
 immense size seemed en the j^oint of lalling down. 
 At the foot of the })reci[)ice lay vast quantities of 
 ikhris, and we therefore gave the cliit ;i v,i<le berth, 
 failing j^ast to a point wliich mad(} c;ut into the 
 soiukL Here we landed, and di; covered a place 
 where it v,as possible to a^cend the mounlain. The 
 course taken was well nigh | erpcndic ula.i-. and \ v.as 
 left to climb alor.e from rock to rock, haulinii; mvself 
 up by the stunted trees and shrubs, no one else caring 
 to undergo tlic labor. 
 
 Finallv I reached the UA^. and walked alonir the 
 escarpment until .1 came to the mlii^i", of the perp.endic- 
 ular cli.r. Here, lookim;!^ down, the scene was most 
 impres; ivc. Tlio boat, with her white sail, now 
 seemed scarcely hr.'ger liian a gull, while our party, 
 who liad climbed up a .'■hort distance from the water 
 and perched t!iem>elves upon a jutting rock to await 
 the result ( f mv adventure, were now reduced to 
 l)igmies. I shouted aloud to Amarinta, ])ut coidd not 
 make mvself understoo(b I waved my hat, but was 
 not observed. I at last found that 1 must take a 
 position on the highest peak, v.hero my iigiire woidd 
 
52 
 
 So7Hcs So2ind. 
 
 11 I 
 
 stand out sliari)ly defined against the sky. Here I 
 was soon seen, and to iiiv simial Amarinta's 
 dainty pocket-handkerchief fluttered a reply. Tlien 
 in response to my loud halloo, came a small voice. 
 Tlie cambric waved aijain, and I caudit two svllaljles 
 that floated slowly up from the depths below, — Talce 
 cure! It was the small voice which belonwd to the 
 anxious proprietor of the pocket-handkerchief. As for 
 Oldstyle, he viewed mo through his glass with as much 
 unconcern as though I had been an eagle or a crow ; 
 while Aureole lay prone upon the rock in utter idle- 
 ness, thus saving the polish of his patent-leather boots. 
 All along the edge of the cliff the bare granite is 
 full of horrid seams and rifts, while huge sections 
 seem ready at any minute to jilunge downward into 
 the sound below. A hint from a handful of gunpow^- 
 dcr would dislodi^e millions of tons. Here I was most 
 forcibly reminded of Shakspeare's description of Dover 
 Cliti's in King Lear, which applies to these, with the 
 exception of the samphire-gatherer : 
 
 " Come on, Sir- here's the place:— stand still.— How fearful 
 And dizzy 'tis to cast one's eyes so low ! 
 The crows, and choughs, that winj? the midway air, 
 Show scarce so gross jis b"etles: halfway down 
 Hangs one that gathers sampliJrf : dreadful tradel 
 Methinks, he seems no bigger than his iicad : 
 The fishermen, that walk upon the beach, 
 Appear like mice; and yon, tall, anchoring bark, 
 Diminish'd to her cock ; her cock, a buoy 
 Almost too small for sight: the murmuring surge 
 That on the unnumber'd idle jiebblcs chafes, 
 Cnuuot be heard so high." 
 
So/US Sou/id. 
 
 53 
 
 YirfT^il savs that the descent to Averuus is easy, vet 
 ih'j descent of this Cliff is twice as hard as the ascent, 
 and rc'iuires double the time. It is finally accom- 
 plished, however, and after various slips and slides I 
 reached the rock where our boat was moored, when 
 we sailed out from under these frownini>' heiixhts, 
 which gradually sink towards the north, torniing a 
 valley, and then rise again pushing out into the sound. 
 This vallev, which terminates on the sound, is ele- 
 
 « 
 
 vated only about forty or lifty feet above the water. 
 The bank is of shelving granite, down which poui's a 
 small stream known as 3Ian-of-AVar Brook, so called, 
 tradition tells us, fi'om the fact that in the last war 
 with Enixland the Kinij's cruisers sailing alonix the 
 coast were accustomed to put in here to till their 
 tanks. It certainly must have proved a convenient 
 place for this i)urpose. As we sat in the boat, rocking 
 gently upon the salt waves, our cups received the cool 
 sparkling water of the brook — a child of the uplands 
 — which even at this dry season was pourinii' down a 
 bountiful supply. It was here very pleasing to notice 
 the conhdenceof a pretty linnet, v>]\o alighted to share 
 with us the benelit of the brook, perching herself on 
 the point of a rock under the spray, and performing 
 her ablutions with all the nice airs of a hi^rh-bred city 
 bird. 
 
 On one side of the brook was a landinj;, and a 
 couidc of wild, am[)hibious looking boys were pushing 
 out in a weather-beaten boat with an old black sail *o 
 
54 
 
 Sojucs Sound. 
 
 lEiiM 
 
 go after liailtlof'k. Tlicir trade had ea;]y jiut its f-eal 
 u|)()ii tlic'iii. () i]('>li, how li>liifk'd I Two Httle giils, 
 Avitli haro heads ai;d feet, ^at on the baidv staling at 
 lis with beautiful daik browu eves. 'J'heir features 
 were good, but wlieu we s[ioke to tiieui it was inouru- 
 ful to li(3:ir the eld(3r, about teu years old, aiiswei* in 
 a li;)arse voice, which clearly iui;»lied iuu<'h jjliy-iciil 
 ueii'lect. The suu was l)roilii!n' hot. and we aske(l if 
 slie had uo ])()nnet, Ix'iug told iu reoly fliat iiie had 
 one last suuHuer. She had no slijes, aid last v.inter 
 she froze her feet. Their parents lived in a Icg-house 
 up in lh(5 vallev. Haviuu^ heard that there were 
 nioney-diiigers in the neighborhood, we incjuired f)r 
 the jilace where they v.eie at work. The girk> point- 
 ed up the valley and led the way. A ^hort walk 
 bi'ouglit us to a wild and romantic s[)ot where the 
 ground had l)een j-artially cleared, and where granite 
 cliU's, sprinkled with shaggy llr and .s[)rMce, ro; e up 
 on the north side to a heiiiht of three tu* four hiuuhed 
 feet. In the middle vX the cleared ground was an 
 excavation lari>e enouj^h for the cellar of a ijood-sized 
 house. The excavation extended down to the solid 
 rock, which everywhere underlies the drift, and a 
 couple of strange-looking men were hard at work 
 with long-handled spades throwing out the earth. 
 These were the monev-diii'm'rs, wlio.se faitii was sotm 
 to be I'ewarded with untold tretisures of silver and gold. 
 The history of monev-diii^ini'' in Elaine is somewhat 
 curious. Thui'e has scarcely ever been a time when 
 
Somes Sound, 
 
 55 
 
 the subject did not attract attention. Kendall, in his 
 Travels, gives an acconnt ul' a great sensation created 
 in connection with the snhject in the bcginnii.ir of the 
 present century, at Xorridgcwock, whei^ a nmn and 
 his two sons gave out that they had found innnensc 
 treasures, and, on the strength of the representation, 
 swnidled the community out of a large anmunt of 
 property. At that time a person was going about 
 in the interior lecturing on the subject of" hidden 
 treasure, and exciting the imagination of the j)eo- 
 ple. 
 
 From time to time money has actually been tbund. 
 Not long since a pot of gold and a signet-ring were 
 discovered on Kichmond Islan.l, near I'oitland, by 
 a tarmer, :Mr. lianscom, when ploughing. lM,ur hun- 
 dred dollars in French crowns were found in a licld 
 liear Frenchman's liay. Near Castine a large collec- 
 tion of old coins was found by Captain Stephen (Jrin- 
 dle in the year 18-10-1. The place pointed out is on 
 the bank of the Pxigaduce, six miles from tiie site of 
 the fort. At this point, lierhaps, was the old road to 
 Hount Desert. 
 
 About the close of Xovember, 1810, Captain Grin- 
 die was engMged with his son, hauling wood down to 
 the shore, when the latter picked ui) a piece of money 
 near a partially buried rock, lying about seventy-live 
 feet from the shoie, and in the old line of a beaten 
 track that had existed for tune out of mind. Tiadition 
 likewise says that one of the Indian routes from the 
 
5(3 
 
 Semes Sound. 
 
 jieniiisula of Castiiie to ^Nluuiit Desert and Frencli- 
 niaii's Bay was up the liagaduce, and thence across to 
 Blue-llill Bav. 
 
 Tlie coin found was a French piece. This prize 
 led them to commence diiiifini^ in the tji'ound, which 
 they continued doing until dark, the .'carch l.eing 
 I'c warded by nearly twenty additional coins. ])nrii:ir 
 the night tlie snow fell, and nothing more was done 
 until spring, when two coins were found embedded in 
 the top of the rock. An ii-on bar thiust into the 
 opening revealed the presence of a large (juantity, 
 numbering nearly five hun'^:ed pieces of difierent 
 nations. Mr. Grindle's wife gleefully held her apron, 
 which was soon loaded by her husband and son, she 
 at the same time declaring that it was " the best lapful 
 she had ever carried." 
 
 These may have been lost or hidden by Baron 
 Castine, when, in 1G88, he tied to the woods to escape 
 from Governor Andross. One of the silver coins was 
 recently shown me at Somesville by the person who 
 received it from the linder. 
 
 Still nearer this spot, on the east side of the sound, 
 opposite Fernald's Point, money has also been found. 
 At least such is the common belief, which is based on 
 good evidence. The reputed linder still lives (18G8) 
 on the }»lace, where, according to the testimony of a 
 man once in his employ, he discovered a pot of gold. 
 At all events his circumstances a})pear to have sud- 
 denl}' changed, when he rose from i condition of hard- 
 
Souics Sound. 
 
 57 
 
 ship to one of comparative afllueiice and ease. That 
 gold may have been buried there is not at all unlikely. 
 When Argall attacked St. Savior, a [jart of the 
 French were scattered in the woods and amoni»; the 
 neighboring islands, and g.)ld may have been buried 
 by them at the place in (question and never recovered. 
 
 All these circumstances, taken toguther, lead tliL^ 
 somewhat credulous farmers and fishermen to imairine 
 that gold is everywhere buried on their lands. 'IMiis 
 suspicion is strengthened by S[>iritualists and Divining- 
 rod men, who go from place to place, i)rac:icing u{)on 
 the unsophisticated. We found one of the Spiritu- 
 alists here in this vallev. lie was a man of somewha: 
 good features with gray beard and hair, and a wild 
 liijht in his eve. The di;»<2:ers at lirst ii^ave us the 
 im[)ression that they were making a cellar, but gradu- 
 ally the owner of the ground, a red-faced man, half 
 farmer and half lisherman, unfolded the treniend:)us 
 secret. Mr. Oldstyle and the rest did not enjoy his 
 confidence, and it was reserved for my own ear to 
 enjoy the revelation in full. 
 
 Drawing me aside, he began by requesting my 
 opinion on the general subject of grdd, and desired to 
 know if the rock was gold-bearing, and whether, in 
 case treasure was found, the United-States Govern- 
 ment could take it away. I assured him that the 
 rocks of Mount Desert were not auriferous, and that 
 it was folly to look for treasure ; nun'eover, that. I 
 thouiiht, so far as the Government miiiht be concerned, 
 
 
58 
 
 Somes Siuuid. 
 
 lie wcniM be welcome to all tliat lie could find. iNIy 
 unbelief Ccau.sed liim to waiin up, and to declare in a 
 low tone apjuvjacliing a stag(^-\vlii.sper, ''There 's gold 
 here." This did not produce the 8tartlii;g eOect 
 anticipated, and therefore, with a soi't of iiisanity blaz- 
 ing from his eyes, he went on to unfold his belief. 
 lie had signified in the beginning that the object in 
 view was a cellar, because he did not know who I was. 
 I might have been a spy, or the agent of sonu; party 
 ab(jut to make a midniiiht raid u|)oii the diii'dnirs. 
 But now that he felt assured he was dealing with an 
 honest tourist, he had no objection to tellirg me that 
 they were in search of gold, and that in three days 
 they would r(?ach it. All the })redictioi:s made thus 
 far by the 8i)irits had been verified. They had told 
 them that as he proceeded he would find the name of 
 one of the men orii-inallv enoaoed in dei)ositini'' the 
 treasure, engraved on a })late. The plate with the 
 name — Jami:s Long — had now been found, at least 
 such was his belief, though the man who discovered it 
 did not like to show it, but rather preferred to keep 
 them in the lively exercise of faith. The treasure 
 buried was none other than the loni2;-soui>ht treasure 
 of the Pirate Kidd. It lay under a black marble 
 slab, thirty feet .scpiare, and beautifully [)olished, rest- 
 in<>- on corner-stones, with a rin!»-oolt in the centre. 
 They were sure to have it in three days. 
 
 Having thus delivered himself, and finding that ] 
 was not dis[)osed to bid high for his claim, ho cooled 
 
1^ 
 
 Sojucs Sound. 
 
 59 
 
 off, and, iiisteiul of (ligglng in the excavation with his 
 friends, very i)i-u<lently went away into a corner of 
 his clearing and began to hoe }K)latoes. IJnt tlio 
 oiliers showed a more genuine faith, and c;)ntinn."d 
 to i,]y tlieir spades, at the same time expressin'.- thcii- 
 happy expectation. For him.elf. Gray beard dM nt)t 
 Ibllovv the example of the man who had just loft mc 
 for his hoe. y/c>made no secret of it wilh ami ,y.w. 
 He expec;edyo/r/. He was at work f(n- a goo.l pay- 
 master, who would pay when the work was done. 
 I i^vwi^nWy hoped that it was so; but then, would jiis 
 work ever be fA^/^e ? The notion was scorned. There 
 eould be no mistake. The treasure was alreadv with- 
 in their grasp. He had talked with Ki<ld, and knew 
 all about it; and so he plied his spade with fre.di zeal. 
 This was the end of the controversy, and we pre- 
 pared to \<i-^s(i. AVliereupon one of the digo-.Ts came 
 out of the hole and inquired f .r - the axe,"Tnd be-an 
 to circle about a small tree under which Amarinta 
 sat, all .he while in his gyrations ap]u-oachiiig nearer 
 and nearer. Accordingly Amarinta became alarmed, 
 and rushed out of the charmed circle. Of this the man' 
 took no notice ; but iindiug his axe, instead of proceed- 
 ing to slaughter, he qu.etly regaiiuMl his liole in the 
 ground, where we heard him beating the dents out of 
 a shovel, preparatory to a fresh i-aid upon the inex- 
 haustible treasures of Kobert Kidd. 
 
 Thus we came otF whole, notwithstanding the 
 proprietor told Aureole that he had twenty foaded 
 
Co 
 
 Soutcs Sound. 
 
 
 muskets standing just inside his door, an announce- 
 ment tliat made him feel nervous. As we turned and 
 left the di<rijjers in the wild lilen, Mr, Oldstvle tried to 
 calculate liow much gi)ld they might liave actually 
 found if they had devoted the weeks spent upon this 
 huge excavation to honest tillage ; while, when we 
 reached the boat, Aureole found his voice, and struck 
 up, 
 
 " My name was Captaiu Kidd, as I sailed, as I sailed." 
 
 The next place on the west side is the Crows' Xest, 
 the north spur of Dog Mountain, vvliich descends 
 abruptly into bold water, covered with scraggy woods 
 from the summit down to the shore. Opposite, and 
 now. near at hand, on the east side, is Mount Mansell, 
 which, with the Crows' Nest, forms the Narrows. 
 The view is singularly fme, and after sailing through, 
 the prospect widens, the sound being about three 
 miles from shore to shore. On the east side is seen 
 the little inlet called, like a larger bay on the west side 
 of the island. Seal Co\e. Here they formerly caught 
 seal in abundance, but now a fish-house signifies that 
 the chief product is herring or menhaden. On the 
 west shore, a little way from the Crows' Nest, is a 
 granite slide called Denning's Walk. It covers a 
 large area, and dips to the water at a sharp angle, 
 being beautifully embossed with moss and lichen, 
 while here and there a small spruce struggles for life 
 in some narrow fissure of the rock. A lone while 
 
 I I 
 
Somes' Son /id. 
 
 6l 
 
 ago, on a diirk whiter night, a vessel was driven uj>un 
 the shelving roek and went to pieces, one of the crew 
 saving himself from freezing to death by walking on 
 the slide nntil daylight. 
 
 As we sail u[)ward the land around us sinks nearly 
 to the level of the water, giving glimpses of the nioie 
 distant mountains, while the spire of Somesville, ere- 
 long, peej)s out from among the trees. From the 
 Crows' Xest to this place is about three miles. AVe 
 enter the little harbor near the head of the sound by 
 passing through a narrow passage between an i.^land 
 and the shore and land near a shipyard that has a 
 saw-mill attached. Everywhere from the upper part 
 of the sound we have beautiful views, Mount Mansell 
 sinking down into comparative obscurity, while Sar- 
 gent's Mountain and Green Mountain loom up linely 
 beyond the intervening woods. 
 
 Towards the east a branch of the sound extends a 
 little higher up, and there vessels resort to load with 
 lumber ; while at Somesville it receives the fresh 
 water that flows down from the outlets of Long Lake, 
 on its way turning the ancient mill-wheels, which, 
 like river-gods at enforced service, laboriously grind 
 and saw. 
 
 Somes' Sound enables us to sail throufrh the heart 
 of the best scenery on the island, to which it gives a 
 general introduction, thus preparing ns to take up 
 other portions of this wonderful place in detail. 
 Wherever the boatman voyages, the eye Is delighted 
 
62 
 
 Somes Sound, 
 
 l)v iieu' and evcr-cliiiiiglng views, pleasant valleys — 
 the liunie of tlie deer — invitinij us ashore for a ranihh*. 
 while the mountains pencil their features around us 
 on the waves. 
 
 AVlth a good breeze, a sail of a couple of hours will 
 take visitors back to South-west Harbor, though who- 
 ever has the time will find it profitable to remain at 
 Somesville for several days. 
 
AMOXG THE MOUNTAIXS. 
 
 CIlAPTKIi VI. 
 
 Wkstkrx Moi'xtain' — Bi:i:cir Moi'ntvix — Sroinr Ci.ii r— 
 Dog MorNTMN' — CLiMnixG — A Sroitv — Flying Moun- 
 tain — rm: FuKNCii — .Sakgknt's Mountaix. 
 
 ')nNTAlNS form one of tlie cfi-andcst 
 feature 5 of this isljind ; and Somes' Sound, 
 1)V dividing them into two wneral irrouns, 
 alfords a convenient elassilieation. 
 All the mountains on tlie west side are hest readied 
 from Soutli-west Ilarhoi*, while those on the east, with 
 the exception of Mount Mansell and Sargent's ]Moun- 
 tain, should generally be ascended from J*ar Harbor. 
 On the west side arc Western, Teech, Dog, and Fly- 
 ing ^Mountains, of which we are first to speak. These 
 mountains mav be distinijuished from the others bv a 
 more verdant aspect, and a heavier growth of wood. 
 The name of Western Mountain indit'ates its position 
 on the west shore of the island, overlooking Penobscot 
 Bay. Seen from the water, it has a tolerably sharp 
 peak, which, as we sail around the island, assumes 
 somewliat the form of a sugar-loaf, apparently with a 
 tendency to topple over towards the cast. Yet this 
 cone is very (irmly fixed in its place, and will never 
 cause alarm. 
 
Cj 
 
 Aijwjisr tJic Mountains. 
 
 From Soutli-west Harbor tlie mountain is very 
 oasiiy reached, as a carriai^e-rcad extends f-j^' a laiire 
 portion of the wa}', changing to a wood-road on us 
 fide, wliicli eventually fades out. This mountain has 
 !io great reputation, yet it is in every resjiect a beau- 
 tiful hei'dit, aliordini"; a fine view of Penobscot Bav. 
 rieal Cove Pond, a large and handsome sheet of water., 
 lies along its eastern side, bathing its feet and reflect- 
 ing its image at times as in a glass. From the pond, 
 the sides of the mountain sweep upward like the sides 
 of an anip-hitheatre, the wood-crowned ledges rising 
 tier on tier. 
 
 Beech ^Mountain is far more popular than Western 
 ^Mountain, from which it is sei;arated by Long Lake. 
 The same road that leads to the latter will conduct us 
 to the former, if we are careful to turn in reason to 
 the right. The mountain road jiasses cc:mi;lete]y over 
 between the two highest peaks, and descends north- 
 ward to the village of Somesville. On the summit, 
 and along the south side, it is extremely rough, and 
 not ada[)ted to public travel, yet with a strong wagon 
 it is passable. This route is the one that would natu- 
 rallv be selected, and vet to ascend from Somesville is 
 mt)re pleasing. It involves eight or nine miles of 
 additional travel, but whoever has the time to spare 
 will not regret the labor. The road to 8omes\ille is 
 nearly seven miles long, and thence, turning to the 
 left, it is two and a half miles to tlie first peak, called 
 
-f^i^^WWJi—JU>"Uii .1 II - 
 
 Among the Mountains. 
 
 65 
 
 the Nipple. The ascent is very graduah and the hill 
 is round as a whale's hack. It is covered with fields, 
 farms, and grass-lands, ai;d on the latter were whole 
 seas of luittercnps and .laisies, wavinij in rare heautv 
 hefore the morninix sun. AVe came this wav our- 
 selves, and as we ascended it was deliiihtful to study 
 each new exiKnidinu scene. Ixeachiniif the hase of tlie 
 first peak, we left our cari-iage and walked to the to}), 
 where the pros[)ect i)roved quite enchanting. North- 
 ward, the mountriin descended gently to Somesville ; 
 beyond were the Narrows, where tlic island keeps 
 trvst with the main, which Ikm'c is fenced in hv some 
 low ])iit iin(i hills ; eastwai'd lay Denning's Lake, the 
 peaks of Dog ^Mountain, tlie Gold-Diggers' (Uen, 
 Stmies' Sound honh^red ])y green woods and hut- 
 ressed in the centre hy Mansell, and beyond were the 
 heights of Goldsborough, smiling upon the enciicling 
 bav : westward we marked the graceful sununit of lUue 
 Ilill, the <listant reaches of Penobscot Pay genuned 
 with fair isles and crowned by tlie Camden Heights; 
 while directly before us were; the slopes of "SVi'^tern 
 ^lountain. risini; Pi'acefully from the shadowv waters 
 of Long Lake, which slumbered in p.eace at our 
 feet. 
 
 Descending, we regained the road, and went on to 
 still higher iri'ound. turning to tin; left anioiii; the lields, 
 and workiiiix our wav on foot towards the eastern 
 summit, near which we looked down one of those 
 tremendous clitls aboundinn in this island, and viewed 
 
66 
 
 AjJiojig tJic Moiuitains. 
 
 the waters r,f T^eiiiiiiiG^'s Lake. Storm (lifr is of 
 great lieiiilit. and, like tlioi-e of Dog ]\roiiiitaiii. it di-ops 
 per|:eii(li''iikir]y to tlie Avater, tlie face koiiig totally 
 iiuK.'ce^sikle. It a|)};e<'irs to the finest advantage, how- 
 ever, from tlie opi-osite siik^ of the lake, whidi is 
 skirtcMJ liv the Somesville road, and the j asFor may 
 thus get a glimpse of it through the trees, lint it 
 is best to go down to the edge of the lake, A\here the 
 elitf I'ises directlv in fi'ont iu all its majesty. 'When 
 lashed l)y the stoims, which rave around these hills 
 with the furv of fallen aniicls, the view is snhlime. 
 How do the mistv battalions chariie noon the liviuij 
 rock, and then break and ily ! There is certainly a 
 soul in them; and even now the memory of a stormy 
 day on that shore allures me down from sunny sloiies 
 and shad}' ridges to view once more their great con- 
 llicts. 
 
 ]iut there is a third peak of Heech ]\rountain to 
 climb, and when we leave the rough I'oad and scale 
 tliis ijranite cone, it becomes no trillinij work. Ama- 
 rinta could not do it, and so was left for a little while 
 to the companionship of a cou})lc^ of kind, motluMly- 
 looking cows, and 1 sci*ambled u[) to the top. From 
 the Mimmit of a reck all that was seen from the iirst 
 peak now appeared in fresh beauty, with the additional 
 prosjiect of the opei?ing towards the south, which re- 
 vealed South-west Harbor, the mouth of Somes' 
 Sound, Ihiss Harbor, the eastern islands, and the 
 boundless sea. 
 
J-. 
 
 imo/i'S tJic Mountains. 
 
 6/ 
 
 It would have boon a |)lcasur(^ t<i delay Ium-c i'»r 
 hours, but it w;is uecessary to descend. >s(»r did I u'l'i 
 back any too soon, for while I was ^.^tWi' an uund\' 
 steer joined the [)eacetid party left below, ]a>hiiig ]ii> 
 tail at the air so furiously, that .\inarinta liad taken 
 possession of the reins, and was about to drivt.' oil" and 
 h'aye nn; to tramp hon.u^ on foot. We returned to 
 Soiilh-west Harbor, by the way of the rouiih nioun- 
 tain roail, <n'eatly deliiihted with the. trip. 
 
 Dog ]\rountain is th.e local iianu^ of the eminence 
 rising on the boi-der (if the souimI. J-'rcm one pcjsition 
 towards the south it appeal's to be an immen.n*, ma-> 
 of granite, ni'urly llat on the to]), and with no conieli- 
 iiess to rec( nnneiid it. ()nthe S(;niesville road, near 
 Denninii's Lake, we uct >ome idea (d* its altitude, aii<l 
 catch a glimpse of numerous steep, bare; ledges; l)ut 
 it will not be appi'e<'iated until thoroughly elind)e(l. 
 The reader has already been introduced to one of its 
 cliil's. and the ( Jold-I)igi:'ers' (ilen, y<'t there is much 
 remainiii!.'' tha^ will repay stu<ly. 
 
 The heiixht of this, as well as ot' the other mountains, 
 except (jri'eeu Moun'ain and XcnvpiU't, is not known. 
 and we w\\\ only left to conjecture. l)"g Mountain 
 falls below I'eecli Mountain in altip.id(>, yet, ri>iiig as 
 it d(;es di'/ectly 1". ( m the \\ater, not an inch is lot in 
 the m'neial elVect by the interference of other obiec;-. 
 This. i!:(le((l, is ;in adxantage possesM'd by all thc>e 
 seagirt mountains, v.hich. \\liile lower tlian the ('at>- 
 kills, idways eipial and (d'ten exceed them in e^ec^ 
 
6S 
 
 Among the Mojintains, 
 
 The ascent of Dog ^Mountain is easier than that of 
 any of tlie liiglier peaks. Three (jnarters of an liour 
 from South-west Harbor, takinij tli(3 ri'^lit-hand road 
 to rernahl's Point, will hv\\\\f a ^(wA ^valker to the 
 place \\h«'r(i he heuins the ascent, which is near the 
 valley, terminatiiiii: in the cove. The route lies 
 thi'ouiih sheep-walks and over bare ledges, and is 
 occasionally obstructed Iw small spruces or i)ines. 
 Keeping well to the right, the escarjiment of the clilis 
 is reached, and the way is plain to the highest peaks. 
 
 Ciaininii* the tirst elevation, we fmd that it termi- 
 nates in a lofty precijiice called Kagle Cliff, turning 
 away from the sound and facinii; the beautiful valley 
 formed by Flying ^Mountain, which now apjiears 
 scarcely liiiiher than a molehill. I climbed it alone 
 on the Fourth (,f duly. The sun was intensely hot, 
 sulliciently so, indeed, to nearly boil one's brains 
 How ijrateful was the cool breeze aloni:: this maixniti- 
 cent height, and liow lovely the view both on the 
 sound and at sea ! 
 
 The last half a mile was a scrand)lc over great dis- 
 jointed rocks upheayed in the Titanic past, and here 
 and there covered with dense thickets. At last I 
 reached the ajiex, marked l)y Ji rude cairn, to which 
 every I'ight-minded tourist is exp.ected to contribute 
 a stone. On looking about, it is found that this moun- 
 tain is the most barren of the western group, and that, 
 instead of being flat-top})e(l, it has a well-tlelined ])eak 
 rising far above tlie lirst landing-place, which had the 
 
AinojKT tJtc Mountains. 
 
 69 
 
 
 
 appearance of being the snnimit. The view towards 
 the west is slint in, more or less, bv lieach Monnlain. 
 Denning's Lake, which lies so near at the west, is invis- 
 ible. The finest views are had np and down tlio 
 sonnd. Here we are able to look into the neiiihbor- 
 ing valleys and ravines and inspect the physical jtecn- 
 liarities of this hiij^liland reuion, wliich is everywhere 
 deeply scarred by the old geol(»gical agents. The 
 development of llie tra[)-r()('k is very marked. Intrn- 
 sions, ^arvin<x in width from three to thirty feet, may 
 be traced along the axis of elevation. In one phice I 
 noticed that the ihce of the traj) had been laid bare 
 by a fanlt in the granite, expos-ing an innnense wall 
 forty or liftv feet hi<ih. Thes<^ \eins mav nndonbtedlv 
 be traci.'d for miles, their extent indicating tin? vast 
 destrnctive powers which nature has in stort', j)owers 
 iliat, if niichanied, would soon cause all the elements 
 to hiss and bubble in (he fervent lu'at. 
 
 AVliut studies in rock arc; here unfolded to the 
 painter, as well as to the ureoloiiist I How i;lori<nisly 
 craiT is ])iled on craix. now laid iirndv t(»u('ther with 
 masonic skill, and now gaping with seams and rents, 
 instantly threateninix to fall ! 
 
 "With reluctance 1 rose from my hard couch under 
 the shadow of the cairn, and, after castinii" a farewell 
 ijlance into the Gold-Diiriiers' Cilen, so replete wiili 
 romantic l)eautv, I beiian mv tramp downward. 
 Iveaching the brow of the precipice overlooking the 
 cove, 1 paused again, enchanted by the beauty of tho 
 

 70 
 
 
 inioj^fT the Mountains. 
 
 f^conc. Tt wMs H()U' liiuli inioii, {Ik; brtM'zc liiid (lied 
 uwiiy, iind ;i dead cnliii picxaihd. Tlitj sound lay 
 })(.'i')i(' iiu! smooth as a sea of gla.>s ; lujarer was tlio 
 ^rccii cove, wlu'iMj tlio brick-rud cows soiigliL llio 
 .-Iiadc of tlic rocks: whiU; l^lNiiiu' Mountain ic-e un 
 beyond Jik<j S(ane I'air green altar })re[;are(l for 
 >a('rilice. ^\]1 sounds around me were Inislied in this 
 houi" ol' noontide cahn. and only the report of an occa- 
 sional JJl)ertv ii'un came Ixioniini'- across the waters 
 of Penobscot J;av. 1 sat lieie loni>- to irazi; upon this 
 x'ciK! of enchantment, and at the sauu; time caik'd 
 to mind an incident al)out the clitf ^\llich was told 
 me one d;iy by a I'aiiner as we walked in tin; cove 
 below, considering the all-al>sorbing (question of buried 
 gold. 
 
 Lookinir ui) at these liranite walls, I asked if 
 it was possible! to scale them. lie replied that it 
 was not. tliough he jiad been able to make his ^vay up 
 at the side. (Jne of his sheep, it appears, had slipped 
 jtart way down the clilf. and aligliied upon a ])roJect- 
 ing ledge. The })oor creature was unable to extricate 
 herself from this perilous position, not having the 
 power to get either u[) or down. Here; u[K)n this 
 ]:arrow pastui'c. where a suekk'U blast might whiil h.er 
 otr, and m;d\e nmtton of her on the cruel rocks hun- 
 di'eds of i'eet below, she manaucd to br«iwse Ibr nearlv 
 a fortnight, sul»>istin<^ upon moss and accidental UKds- 
 lure, wiiile hei" piteous cries daily fell iainter and 
 fainter in the farmer's ear. At last a man, moved 
 
Among the MountaiiiSy 
 
 71 
 
 with pity, V(tliiiif('(MH'(l on Suiiday afternoon to attempt 
 it rescue. ArnuMl witii a l<>iiy" pole, he tried to make 
 his wav clown to the ledue, and whe'n last seen he was 
 lyiiii^ upon his faee, seareliinj^ out a passage. A 
 minute afterwards tliose anxiously watehin<4' him sud- 
 denly found that lu; had di.>a[)[)eai'e(l. The discovery 
 illl<(l them with con>ternati(»n. Looking' al)o\e tiiey 
 c;)uld not see him retreating, and th(3 conclusion was, 
 that he had fallen nnohservetl, and was dashed in 
 })ieces. The alarm was raise(l, ila^ iieighhors assem- 
 hk'fl, and after a dilii-ent hut fruitless search, they 
 concluded to uive it up. Jhit hefore relurnini:", tliev 
 raised a ninted shout, callini'' the man hv name, if, 
 haply, he miiiht still he alive. And the eciio had 
 liardlv died awav when the man came our throuiili 
 tin; hushes of the cove and stood nnliarmecl hetoi'o 
 them. Here was a miracle? Not (piite ; for, instead 
 of tundding down the clitf, he hecame frin"htene<l and 
 crawled l)ack throunh a crevice in the rock, afterwards 
 descending the opposite sidi^ (d' the mountain to visit 
 a neiiihhor, from whose hous(3 he was now reiurniuij 
 home. The people felt greatly relieved, though some- 
 what foolish; l)Ut the faint cry of the poor sheep still 
 iloaled down from her narrow prison. Jt was accord- 
 ingly res(dved to make a fresh attempt, and a rojie 
 ha\ing heen })rovided, a sailor was let down to the 
 ledge. After some ellort, he hrought up the faudshed 
 creature in liis arms. As for the hrave fellow himself, 
 he was drowned hut a little while uijo. On a cold 
 
72 
 
 Aino)i(r tJic Mountains. 
 
 winter iiiglit his vessel was riiiiniiig f„r Sqiuxm Light 
 in a tliie-k snow-stoim, when she struek the beaeh, 
 bilged, luid l)uriied up. 
 
 80 much fur tlic story ; and now here were the 
 chtls before me, gray, steep, and perilous as ever. 
 And could I get down? Hoc labor est. 1 certainly 
 tlionglit the dilliculty had been overrated and berran 
 to beat about in every possible jdace to find some way 
 to descend. ]5ut after cautic.uslv trvimx a hundred 
 and fifty feet the (lilficnlty grew more and more 
 api)arent, and the way was at last barred by one of 
 tliose perpendicular walls of granile that yield to 
 no argument or j -u-suasion. Discretion was here the 
 better part of V. : r, and accordingly! climbed back 
 to the summit again, where I caught the faint halloo 
 of a })()ating-party on the strand. Thev saw mo 
 \\\) among the crags, reduced in the distance to a 
 speck, and sent up their salutations. They acknowl- 
 edged my own with a waving of hats; but Echo took 
 It up and sent it back with peri'ect distinctness from 
 the far-offsides of Mount :Mansell. Just then a light 
 breeze swept down through the cove, kissed the white 
 sails of the little yacht, and bore her away. 
 
 Flying Mountain is a pigmy among the hills, yet 
 here the lover of the beautifid would build his cha- 
 teau. It was observed, as a matter of course, in our 
 trip up the sound, but it now requires more particu- 
 lai' consideration. Its situation is unecpialled. It 
 
Among the Mountains, y^, 
 
 seems as if pluc.,1 Ikto to afionl tl.c best j.os.siMo 
 out-louk upon the lovJicst sceiioi-y of the souiul. The 
 ai.i)ruu(.li is quite ruiiKintic. S.^oii after Jeuvin- the 
 turn of tlie read at the head of South-we.t IIjuImt 
 the mouMtaiii lifts itself ui> to o-,vat a.lvanl.o-e heyoiul 
 the liel.ls, vet wlieii we reacli a given point near the 
 cove it affords a pleasing surprise, l.reakino- into vieu- 
 throngh the trees, with a part of Dog .Mountain ap- 
 pearnig on the left. 
 
 It is moreover a place that all can visit. 3Ir. Ohl- 
 style was delighted because it was historic groun.l • 
 yet he confessed that its easy slopes snit(Ml Ids K-..' 
 He would none of your tramps and fbrced marclKs 
 through tangh,d woods and dells. That wouhl do f„r 
 poachers and bnys. He oftcui shook his head at our 
 folly. IJut now he felt that he had an object before 
 Inm. This was the beautiful hill of Father Jiiard of 
 Masse, and of lJ,other Gilbert du Thet. So, plant- 
 ing Ins gold-mounte.l stick in the con.pact soil he 
 ninibly trod the beaten path of the woollv sln^ep and 
 ascended to the sumnut, where he seat(Ml hims.If 
 upon a rock, and, slightly accommodating a (p.ota- 
 tion from Shakspeare, delivered himself as follows- 
 
 "Th'iH ^^o^lntain liadi n pleasant scat; fl 
 Nimbly and sweetly recommouas itself 
 Unto our gentle sensct!." 
 
 10 air 
 
 Tlioreupou lie lui.l asi.lo hi. broad-brhnme,! Imf, an.l 
 allowed the soft summer breeze to wander at will 
 
^'^T 
 
 74 
 
 Among the Mouiitaiiis. 
 
 """"•^,'';-; '"'•'^^- ^\'" '■■'•' ''i"> "- vieu- at l..is„,.o the 
 
 gnxM, |,ol,ls l.,.|„w, Ul„.,0 ,1,,, I.-,,,,,|, ,,„i|t j,,^.;,. ,ijj,^ 
 
 l-i-'. -t ni. tl„.i,- „.,„s, raise-,! Ih. Cross, .sang ,l,o J/„,,, 
 a..,l clmnl.,1 („///,, ,ry/,, ^„.,,/,,,„,, . „, j,,,,,^ ^^^^^^^^ 
 
 oi. the o:dn. ualor.s ,;1- il,.; s,,ui„l, ,vl„.r>; Ar-Ml's 
 
 r'"'' ;'""'^ •■^"i''' ^''^ ••^" ''n'""-," iKHMing i,r l„.r 
 
 lM-ou.ls„l. .Moaiust, tl,. l.-re„.-l, ; t„ see ,l„ Tl„.; spri,,..- 
 
 n.g to ,l,c g„.s ,vi,lMl,c s|,irit, or H l.cTojMU .luirMv- 
 .'lM.St.Mvel.erinl.is.nv,, l.loo,I;,osoo,l„.„„om,al 
 hgl.t. the s,,.o,ly surrcMdcr, l!,e jiillago of the l,.„ts 
 the solenn, fu„or;,l of ,ho sh.in, a,„i, timillv. tho ,lo- 
 l""'t"ro of Argall, h.,ni„g t],c .levastal,.! can,,, 
 w.-oatl,e,l in s.noke. These things ],uvo nou- all pass, 'l 
 iiwa.y, yet to o„r anli,,„ai'ian f,ie,„l they ai'o vivid 
 realities. Gilbert ,1,. Tl,efs ashes rest some»he.-o be- 
 t-eath yomle,- g,-ee„swa„l, the s,a-i„g fron, ,vl,ieh he 
 «ln,nk .still flow.s out fn,„i „n,l,.r (Ik. l„i„H of |l,is hill 
 the nu,„„lain.s n,„n, whieh he ga.e.l ,x.n,ain, thesan.J 
 ocean l.,-eaks np,,,. ,],, shore, un,l d,e san,e stars an.l 
 sky look ,loun fi-om above. A single etn,rt of the 
 ""agination re-c,-eufes the scene. So let „s ,.ive 3Ir 
 OMstyle a few minutes to himself, and u-e uifl scram- 
 ble ah.ng the ri,lge of the n,ountaii,, uhieh now as- 
 sumes a wil.ler aspect, being broken up and .seamed 
 "■'t ' t.-ap, and sentinelled here and there «ith the 
 lialt-buiiit trui,ks of pine. 
 
 At the termination of the ri,lge the mountain de- 
 scen,ls abruptly to the sound, leaving no beach. It is 
 therefore impracticable to pass urouud ou the water side 
 
Afnojig the Mounta 
 
 / :> 
 
 .-5 
 
 "'■''""'"''• '"-'• 'J-'- ^^■"■..f llH. ,„.i.,l,l„„.i„„ 
 
 :""""-- '•.■„„ui,is ,,„i,u is most i„v..iv. I,!,.,.,,' r 
 
 a you,. ,,,,,,,,, ,,,,,^,,, i-l-n!,„C 
 
 incnillv iMii.K . socius i,, .„lv.,,... .• i 
 
 w,. 1,.,,' r > "•■"l\.H.v<> Iron, il,,. ,..-i,|. I !,.,■,, 
 
 « ^ li.-' a i<.hvK.voni..j„ni,,,. Wins, ,■,!,.., ;,,,.,. 
 
 ..u h,.,,l,,s, ,vl,H.l, ,,,.,. n „•,,,.,,. I, ,,,.,.,;,,,,,,, ,,,^ 
 o l.o-nc,ent,.fi„,s. T.u,..,.,,.; .s,,,,.. .l,e viow 
 
 g.anue bosses of S.,-,..,. ,,„, (;,„„,,; ,.^^ 
 
 ;:r:^-^""-f-- •••■ i'iM^i .uo .,,„,,:, 
 
 a a, „, ,,„y .1,, ,,.„. ,,.„„,,,.,,,,,,_ ^^^^^1 ^^ 
 
 "" "">,nfaM,.s, o,..e across .!,e s„„lit islnucls ,„,ou ,l,c. 
 r..r;.lo .sea. All is sweetucs, bca.Uy a,„l ,...,,.'.. 
 
 I .eWc.l Somosville as ,1,0 point of .Vparturc for 
 Nm'gents .M,„„„ai„ o„ ,l,e oast si,le of ,1,„ .s,„„„l. 
 llK. as,.,.,,, ,.a„ be a,.co,„|,lisl,c.,l by o,.ossi„g ,l,e so,„„l 
 fr,m ,v,,„l,-„-,.st lla,.bo,-, yet few ,„:.,.so„.s. ,vl„.„ at 
 
 fT""'.'' """"'"''*' ""■'-■^'•'-"•■•Mmaio,,,,. 
 »>a.<e a ,,.,,, ,0 ,bis i„vi,i„o. l„,i.,„, „,,.,,, ,i,.,^ ,,_^ ,^, 
 
 up 1.1 ,l,e cli,tai,cc before the door of the li-,!,, l,o„e. 
 
;6 
 
 Among the Moimtatns. 
 
 like liotol. 'Mui foot of tlie mountaii. may be reached 
 cither by boat or caniaoe. In tl,c hitter case it ^vill 
 be necessary to take the rcxid to Xorth-east Harbor. 
 Tlie route by water is ph-asanter, as it ailoi.ls (.harm- 
 ing gbmpses down tlie sound. A brisk row of tln-ee- 
 fourtlis of an honr biings us to a place called Seal 
 Cove, like one of the inlets on the west shore of the 
 island, where seals were formerly taken in abundance 
 Here we left the boat, struck across the iields, and 
 h'nnd a wood road running along the base of the 
 mountain. JMy guide evidently knew as little about 
 the route as I did, yet I thought it well to have him 
 along. Some men who were hoeing potatoes replied 
 to my inrpiiries in a way that showed a slio-ht deoree 
 of contempt for city folk. They ''guessed," too,'that 
 I meant to stay on the mountain all niiiht, thereby 
 intending to retlect on the judgment exhibited in com- 
 mencing the ascent in the middle of the afternoon. 
 Unablo to learn anything from these churls, who had 
 lived here all their li^ cs, we pursued the ^vocd road 
 iintd it became reduced to a sort of squirrel-track, 
 and then moved straight up the pathless side of the' 
 mountain. Thickets, dense foliage, and fallen trees 
 everywhere obstructed the way, and a hard struirgle 
 was often required in order to open a passage. Occa- 
 sionally the steep ledges intervened, frcm which 
 glimpses were had of the expanding prosi)ect, while 
 it often appeared as if the summit lay within a few 
 rods. Yet for a long, toilsome hour and a half, ledo-e 
 
Ainonsr the Moiiiitctiiis. 
 
 77 
 
 
 rose on IcmVo. Finnllv the nnox was reached and tho 
 reward gained. Every way the prospect exceeded 
 my anticipations. From '?, liistance tlie snmmit oi" lh(; 
 mountain appeared round and smooth, })ut wlien actu- 
 allv (Tunl)cd it was found to 1)C tlie most hroken and 
 ruirged eniinence on the; island, and at the sann^ tinio 
 the most barren and desolate. U'hc toi) occujjies a 
 large ai'ea full of rifts that, lower down, assume the 
 character of chasms and I'aviues, amonu which everv- 
 thing excej)t the sky is frerpiently lost to view. ^TcMuit 
 Manscll, which lies between Sargent's ^Fountain and 
 the sound, is scared v sccm from the northern itart of 
 the sunmiit, the view being obstructed by a spur of 
 Sargent that is separated from the main ])eak by ii 
 wild ravine with nearly })(!ri)endicular walls. East- 
 ward, however, there is a fine view of Green ^Mountain 
 brought out in bold relief by the declining sun. 
 
 FollowiuiX the ridiie of Sarijjent's iNIounlain south- 
 ward about half a mile, a view of Eagle Lake is had, 
 lying far down among the hills in the shade, and spark- 
 linnr at the eveninij hour, like a black diamond. A little 
 farther south, in a cup-like depression of the ridge, 
 is the Lake of the Clouds, a small body of water 
 about an acre in extent, and which, according to fable 
 has no bottom. Yet a line let down from a raft once 
 gave a depth of sixteen feet. It is supplied chiefly 
 by the winter snows. This lake lies in w hat resembles 
 an ancient crater, though the rock is of granite and 
 no signs of volcanic action are visible. Indeed, every 
 
78 
 
 / 
 
 Among the Mountains, 
 
 thinrr iinlifatos llic Mftioii of iro jiimI fVo.t. A^rasslz 
 AvlH'ii licrc, noted the rc>('inJ)laii('(' (.[' iliis nir.m.taiii 
 to llu; Swi.vs liills lliat Iiavc Ix-.mi .sliaicd l.y ,-lacial 
 action. 'I'll,, smnniit is c'V<'Itw1ici(. worn ai:(l iramdcd 
 by vast iccliclds live or si.v llioM>aiid I'crt iliick. uliidi 
 tlic iiTcat >a\aii tclJs us ci-iislicd tlicir way down from 
 tlic Iii;;li ic-ions of Kalahdin to tlic -ca. .\o Jc-.s 
 stiij;cndous ii lurcu could lia\c accouipl-slicd such 
 results. 
 
 From tltis part of ilic niouutain tlic view is op.eu 
 towards the south, niviu^ ;i view of IladlocU aiid dor- 
 <lan"> {''oi.ds. \orth-east Ilarhoi-, and tlie neinhhoriiig 
 rc-'ions, with the hroad Atlantic Ixwond. 
 
 As I left tlie uiai;-in of the Lake of the Clouds, the 
 sun threw his slantino- ])eanis al:ain^t the rose-colored 
 lirainte wall that shuts it in on the south, when the 
 rucks heo-aii to mirror themselves in the water, tlinoinfr 
 down their warm tints upon the ruslies and lilv-pads 
 \vlii<-h \V(Mv o-rowinir nre,.,i amonir ?]„. (l,-li(.;it(>lv pen- 
 cilliMl imaii-es of tlie dwarfed s|.riu*e and pine. 
 
 Th(? descent was accompli^hed hy a, ditleront and 
 still mon^ (lillicult route. A tolerably easy way coidd 
 liave l.eeu found alono- by Jonlan's I'ond. yet mv 
 destination was Somesville ; and, theiefore", after 
 sc amblino-.hjwnward a short <listance. in a si.utherlv 
 (lirection, we look the ranoe of prominent p<.ints oli 
 Mount .Mans(dl and prepared to move westward down 
 across the ^V^.^x' valley to the North-east JIarbor road. 
 liut here the wild beauty of the scene delaved me for 
 
 
I 
 
 Ajiioji^:^ tJic Mounia'uis. 
 
 79 
 
 
 a littlo wliilo. ii(»t\vith>tiin(Hiiij tin* nii^ht \v;i-^ ODiniiiix on, 
 ami a loiii;" tramp was still to he accompli^licd. 'riicic, 
 a llioiisiind tret Ix'low. lay a loiii^ verdin'c-dail xallcy, 
 sweeping down from th(^ rit't<'d summit ai;.- sides (»!' 
 Sar'^cnt's Mountain, into wliich. llii-ouuh rockv delilcs, 
 the scttiiiix sun threw loiii:; lances ot' liiilit lliat onlv 
 served to rendei" llu; f;i>t-i:atlierin<j; shade more impi'es- 
 sive. r>ut what jn'oveil (Mjually heautit'ul was liie 
 rmisic of iIh' hiids. which IVom llie dav I fu'st stepped 
 ashoi'e at. Mount De.-ert neNcr ceased to pro\ (; a source 
 of delight. And now tin; uhoh^ valley i-anii; Avith 
 Bonii". and, as a <lead calm prevailed, exci-y note was 
 cauiiht up ami eclioed amoni;" the mountains, the eO'ect 
 beiiii^' a> >iiiLiular as it was beautiful. 
 
 lint I was soon ailinoinshe(l hv mv irinde of tho 
 necessity of imshini'" on, and therefore I reluclantlv 
 souu[ht the edii'e of th(3 decdivity and slid d(»wn IVoin 
 rock to rock amonii" the trees, until I reachi'd an open 
 place near tin; centre of the \alley, whert^ I could 
 look up at the craij; wlTadi I had ju>t left. Then, 
 piishiniij into tln^ deliso woods, we heat our way 
 through tlie under-hrush, amidst the f i>t-i;atlierinu 
 ^loom, u!itil, lonii; afier sunset, we joyfully emerged 
 ii)>ou the road which jiasses under the pei))endi(adar 
 cliU's in the east side (»f ]\Iount Maiisell. 'TIk^ walk 
 liere in this notch is alwavs tiiu', hut at twilight it is 
 unusually interestin^i;. 
 
 A rapid walk of two miles iiortlnvanl hrouiilit tis to 
 the cove in Somes' S(JU1h1, w here we liad left the boat. 
 
So 
 
 Among the Mountains. 
 
 It was soon lMuiicl,ed, and speedincr on its wav, inipollod 
 U two flasliii.ir oars. On tliis occasion I Imd an op- 
 l.ortunity of witnessing tlio eiTcct of a snnnner tui- 
 liglitonlliis beautiful sheet of water; for the sky, 
 barred witli crimson and imri,le, flo.,de<l tlie surface 
 witli its own deep hues, wliile Do<r ]\rountain and 
 :\rount Mansell flung tlieniselves darkly down at full 
 lengtli on tlie calm, i)ulseless tide. And out of their 
 shadows loomed numerous spectral sails, while a lioht 
 in the win<low of a distant cottage threw down a faint 
 ilame that vaiuly tried to dance upon the waves risin^. 
 in our homeward track. ° 
 
 At halt-past nine o'clock our boat grounded at the 
 head of the sound, and soon after the kind hostess of 
 the ]\Iount Desert House welcomed me to a steamincr 
 supper. ^ 
 
J 
 
 AMOXG THE MO U X 7\l /XS. 
 c II A PT i:u V [ [. 
 
 Bai! II vuiioii — Tin; A^^tknt or (iRr.r.v — Tin: ri;o«n.( r — 
 Xhhit — A Tin:Ni)i:i{ SioitM — Tm: I)i;s< i:nt — Niwi-ort 
 — IIo.Mi;u — IJoiM) I'l AK — i;<n(> Xon II — I)uv Mm v- 
 TAiN — I'l' Gui;i;n — I.>a(k Acaix. 
 
 OTWITIISTANDIXG tlio boautv nf iho 
 ] western i^n-oup, tlie inoiuitjiiiis <:i^t of 
 Somes' Soniid present >tlll urcatci- inifi'est 
 CBSS^aSR] and v:iric!tv. Conseinientlv they are lict- 
 ter luiowii, and more llioronii'lily studied. 
 
 AVitli lli(i execption of ^lan'-cll and Sai'iJitTit. tlicv 
 are all to be rea(died Irom the ea>l side ot' tlic -ouiid. 
 ]?ar Harbor i> the prop.er point ot" dcp.nrtuic. and by 
 makini;" the ascent of Newport and (Jrecn Mountain, 
 we can <s\'m an aecpiaintanee with the i«>t. 
 
 Ot" all these sea-girt mountains, \t\vporl. after 
 (irern .Ab>uiitain, i> deservedly tia^ mo>t popul.ir. 
 Some p.rrsons e\en plaee Xew[»oit in the adxanee of 
 (Ireen. declaring that it )ias peculiar attiMctions for 
 which nothing can compensate, ^'et, while conceding 
 ♦he advantages of Neupoif. (ireen ^lonntain elevuh^s 
 itself above all the rest, both in pictorial interest and 
 in connnandinix he^Liht. 
 
82 
 
 Amo/i^r the Mountains. 
 
 In crossinij the island to Bar Harbor, our friend 
 Oldstyle, and others averse to chnibing, were left 
 behind, while new friends and acquaintances entered 
 the circle. Here the mountain tramp is never a soli- 
 tary excursion. At a signal, troops of pedestrians 
 issue forth to explore the nei^diborinii: regions, and 
 two or three in nearlv cverv circle were always ready 
 to climb the highest i)eak and the most dillicult pass 
 
 IJut happily Green Mountain presents few o])sta- 
 clcs in the way of visitors. For a nund)er of years 
 tlie olhcers of the Coast Survey had an Observatory 
 on its summit, and when work was suspended a toler- 
 able road was left, which has since been im])roved to 
 such an extent that carriages can, if necessary, ascend 
 to the top; though it is the custom for most persons 
 to perform the last two miles on loot. The whole 
 distance, f)ur miles from tlui village, is a pleasant 
 excursion for a pedestrian in full strength. 
 
 As we ascend, Kagle Lake conies in \ie\v on the 
 riflht, Ivinij^ alonir the flank of the mountain in a 
 trough-like depression, while beyond the ranges rise 
 in regular order. The view towards New})ort and 
 the sea is shut in bv the woody ridijfe of Green iNToun- 
 tain, along the back-bone of which the road runs, 
 though at several points about half way up may be 
 liad charmiuix iilimnses of Goldsborou<di .M(jun tains 
 and Frenclunan's Bay. Finally, on reaching the top, 
 a glowing prospect greets the eye, land and sea ming- 
 ling in the most captivating forms. In a clear day 
 
 

 Awoug the Mountains. g, 
 
 S: :1:;:: •;;'-•;:"':"• V": ^" ^^^--^ 
 
 hca.l. '" ^^"'••''■■■•"e to mn.il i;s 
 
 V'l • . '''''^^' J iie scene is one <,f ,.n>.,f ]„..,,..,. 
 
 c,i\'-^ a sketdi 111 Ills i),w>in i,<s 7/ If 
 . 1.^ iKiKh JuMiiHt jM.est on one of these 
 -aks. u iiere, wJnie ga.in. on the scene belou , iie 
 
 J 'at n,.h,Jyui,l, hi. slumbers conu'- 
 
 »'^'vi.u>saro,nMl,l.ehil]-MU.Mvr,.aM.i'n.. 
 
 »»JtJmitli> bu.M.m, blur Oaionie 
 
 * * ♦ * # * # 
 
 l'orJierebororelumisuiMu;icd 
 J^a.h.d <](..;, in ,nun,in;r.,i]^,„,„. 
 
 ^^^^■''•^"«^"^^<^o,isa,s(l,c(]u.am ' 
 
 Oi tliebeutitii.|...s,„ay hlhi; 
 
 Iion.cu,,uar(linextatiobli^s 
 
 ^''^''''I'tentliUHastH.ar.suway 
 i'>abn-htorr.o,;,|,i,.,„t,.i,. 
 
 A mortal •s.Mi.npso beyond f 1.0 palo- 
 A inoiuoiifs Jilting ol (1,0 veil." 
 
 ii.I'';.2^'lr 7" '' ''•"■ '-^ «'■""-''.- ,,v two 
 
 ea T '"" ""^"'^ ""••"'-" -t „,:,, :„„„,. 
 
84 
 
 Among' the Mountains. 
 
 sea, is fill('(l witli sinnll trees find slirnbs. CVossinr. 
 near its licad and descendiiiLT in a uotiu'ly direction, 
 we leacli tlie In-ow, wliere may Ijc liad a line \ie\v of 
 tli(3 wild I'eiiion Jvinii" l)etween (ireen ^Mountain and 
 Sargent. Peinetic is se<Mi elos(! at liand, lit'iing up 
 its sliarp l)an'en ridge ; the l>ul)l)le ]Monnlains next 
 appear, icjoicing ni(;dest']y in llieir green ei'owns of 
 le.sf-er hcinlit ; l)evond is tlic dark but sidendid ranire 
 of Sai'iicnt. sliultiuix in the sky; while Kn^le Lake 
 stretches noi'lhward at our feet. Only the more };er- 
 sistent clind)er jienetrates into these recesses of ^Mount 
 Desert, where Ik; may any day come face to fact; with 
 the fierce-lo(jking hnt inolU-nsive A\ild-cat,or the harm- 
 less d«'er. One; ncNcr tires of looking down upon tluj 
 dai'k, tanirled ^\()ods, the ianu'ed iseaks, rwid dusky 
 glens, where the light and shade Ik .'Id perp.etual play, 
 briniiini'' out the stronij^est and most beautiful etiects. 
 Other Aei-y line \iews may be had, to ^ee which 
 we must scramble around the entire summit. ]>ut 
 only one of these can be mentioned here, though in 
 souie resj;ects it is the grandest to be had on the wlmle 
 i.->land. It is seen from the north-east brow, where 
 the yi>itor looks down into the Otter Creek \'allev, 
 lying between (ireen Mountain and its spur known 
 as Dry Mountain. The i)ros[)ect is marked both by 
 variety and magnitude. Immediately before u.s is tlu^ 
 valley, a thousand feet deep, clothed in dark gi-ccn 
 forests, well-watered in the centre by a cool, invi.-ible 
 brook, and terminating in the blue liord c;f Otter 
 
Amvi^r tj,^ Aroinitaius. 
 
 8S 
 C.vc.k.l,,,n,n,lis,l,o,.i,lgoofI)n.M,,,,n,..,i,,,u,,l,ho 
 
 Ml, i.,u. l.uri^„ng(.oaiiM..t (iilvnmvcv 
 • ;''ie.„.are nnpn.,io,. of tl. I,,.,,,, ,„• „„, ,2 
 
 i ' i\ I ill ) I \ , 
 
 « 
 
 lMv.,sal,,.aunfulJnlym,,n,i,,ifulK.,,w.,„a,,,,,,, 
 ""■"'y V:"-<y. Oocasionallv w. saw ,l,e ila.ial ,„ ,,"s 
 
 ''Hl,o p,.os,,..e,. .I,K.,, ,,nf.,l,M s,,,„e IVesl, ..,,anu • 
 
 • - < n K. n.o,.o ,l,s,ant ,,I,j..o,, .,,eh as Ka,al,,lin 
 ;•;'''''''''' S">"- -l,i.h „,.« .seen onlv i„ re. 
 
 sc- v<.f.,., >, ^^ '^ ^■>U".v.(l ,1 |,ea,ui/„l s„„. 
 
 ..3 t.sn,gIacamoo„Uu, i;,.,.,, „,,i, •,,,■,,,,,. ,1,0 
 
 i'.^iu.^ tliat twiiiklo en the ari.t n. i .. ,• , 
 
 ^"-■- '^'-'^.>pe.,x.,, at i,,::::;: ^^'''--'^ '■^'-- 
 
 Ji'o wo,.M Muu- bei,,. ,v,.ap,...M,, ,,a,i<,,oss. we 
 ::t; '-'^ ''"■ -^ -'.-.inn,e„t ^.^ ' . '"^ ^ul 
 
 --. -. ^.- . .iir; :;:!,:;.;;: 
 

 /bnong the Mountaijis. 
 
 spnirc jilaiiU'd \\\ tli(3 I'ock to C'ii;il)l«3 it to withstand 
 tlu; licavy l^mIcs. 'Hie little ])arl()r in the centre is 
 tlanke<l hy the dining-room, and a Cijujile of dorniito- 
 ries, wliih; ovei'head, in a loft, a donble tier of berths is 
 arranged, steanihoat fashidn. for the further aceomnKj- 
 dation of tlie disciples of .AI()r}»lieiis. During liiose 
 c )]d. stoi'niv niixhts which occur on the mountain excn 
 in the middle of Julv, the well-lilled stove is no nn- 
 w(dcome companion, hut. tends to pi'omote Jollity in the 
 ci)"cl(,' of wayfarers usually irathered around it. Here, 
 when sup[)er is over, the adventures of the day are 
 recited. tli(; soii'^ is suuiX, and the storv tohh while the 
 walls at times will crack with peals of laughter. 
 
 \\j an early hour the weary pedestriaji usually 
 retires, with a lirm resolution to he up l)etim(\s and 
 receive the first i^reetijiixs (if Old S(d as he rises fiom 
 liis ocean l)ed. ()ur conivanv followed the custom of 
 the place, thoniih not before some ^(>un^' ^.ons of Yale 
 had executed a ufrand hear dance on the rouiih board 
 lloor in the loi't which had been assigned to their use. 
 .Aline host looked .^lightly nghast v.heu he heard the 
 timbers ijroanii!'^ about his ears, but ou beiu!! assured 
 that the nai'tv was no less safe than noisv and "all 
 riirht," he took a candle and sought his downv couch, 
 tiimply enjoining us to put out the lights when we got 
 readv. 
 
 The tired Collci^ians, however, had hardlv ended 
 (heir performance on the light fantastic t(je, when a 
 fearful tiuinder-storm arose, which set the sky all 
 
Among the .trouiitiuiis. 
 
 8; 
 
 •""« "" gl,„.u.u. ..„>,n..e grecod ,„„. evo, l,„t U,: 
 
 ;:;r:;r f' '''■^'■'''•'- "■•"'-■- ''^''--'g -.e.i 
 
 ■o an. .low,. ,,,,0,. cvo,,v,,an.,r,|,,, co,,,u,-v 
 
 :: if "■=':;r'''''''''-^«■'•°™-"'■''*-'-nl.a;- 
 ;. ■ ' . f Mo„„t Dos,.,, ,..,,o,.io„oe.s l,„t o„<.e i„ a lif... 
 ','"'^- l"'..,^ „.„,„,al bo.l. in i,, ,.|,a,,„,o,is,ics .u„l 
 
 ^ylK.„ I„...aUrast was over (he sto,.,,, aba.o.l. an,l wo 
 
 «-, l,,r,h ,0 view as „>,,ch of ,1,0 p,.os,,.,,. a. oouk 
 ; , II , , , '»""'<= mist. 11,0 ram lia, l , |o„ 
 
 ■ ' -*. -Hi ,1,0 oa.-ea,los wore ,oari„g ovor ,l,o rook, 
 -: ^'"-.ng .low„ the .stoop lo,l,osr while ,1, 
 
 -Hi ,avo a gl„np.se of Ihe l,air.,l,.o,v„o,I wooils I olow 
 Sooy,,o,,,os.,n,opa,.,,„,,,,,,,, ,^^^ 
 
 'C '..?. -"I =»11 but two ,lopa,-M for J!ar Ha.ho, 
 
 exh. nsto.l, ami ,„ ,l,e „,idst of a ,lrivi„.. .ale -umI 
 
 •-•'■'_.%. A.,a..i,,ta a,.a I lott .1,0 ho,- a, 
 :"--' "- ''^■l.-S-l ,.„a,l. a,„l p„sl,o,l o„ ,,•„„„ '[ 
 
 ."S.un.,attl,eo,,,l,.fa,.ho,,ra,,,lahalfw.o,.,, , 
 tbc hotel at Jiar irarhor. Thus, for the „W,, 
 our ,l,-oa,„s of G,-ee„ .AIo,„„ai.,. 
 
8S 
 
 Aino;ig the Mountains. 
 
 most symmctrifal of ll:o iiiount;;iiis, uliilo il lias just 
 vcnliinj (.'ijou-li to set oil' its .siileiidid dills to great 
 advantage. 
 
 Just below the jimctioii of the Otter Creek and 
 Scliooner-IIead Roads, a cart-traek leads away to the 
 ri^iiht towards the foot of Xewi)ort, terininatiiig in a 
 l)ath, which turns to the left and runs up to the lowest 
 ridge, lieaehing this ])ath, the eliml.er makes his 
 way u|)ward. Soon tlie sjiur on the light, kutnvn as 
 Ivnund Peak, assumes a delinite foiiii, and the ocean 
 appears on the left. Little cairns piled up at intervals 
 now indicate the way. 
 
 An hour's climbing brougiit my two companions 
 
 and n]y>elf to the highest peak, surmounted by a 
 
 [)yramid of stones, lleie we took a brief rest and 
 
 disposed of our lunch, which was wa.^hed down with 
 
 liberal draughts of rain water found in the depressions 
 
 of the rock, and, whicli lu'ing bitter, we called lichen 
 
 broth. To sweeten sucli a vegetable compound 
 
 would reipiire the skill of a .Pluses. Ibit even this 
 
 beverage is found only after a rain, while of living 
 
 .s])rings there arc none. :My i-entimental fi-ieiid will 
 
 say that these are carnalities, yet nothing adds less to 
 
 the enji)ynient of Xew[)ort than a hunorv stomach, or 
 
 a buinini"- thirst. 
 
 One charm oi Newport Mcunlain is found in its 
 rearness to the ocean. Only a narrow strij) of land 
 intervenes beL\\ ecu its base and the sea. From its sum- 
 mit we could look down upon the deck of a passiu" 
 
■'"'""j: the Monntains. 
 
 So 
 
 toamo., ,, a.owi.^.n, sMilin. ,;,, s,.,,l,.„,,t n,.,I,or. 
 llK< j,-,j:.e, aron.s „f 1.:,. ]{„,„ „.orc ,.„,■„. ,„. 
 
 '.'■'■.•■''"■■'\''f" ■^" '"->• "'a.l Lulls. ul,il,.' S,.|„ io 
 
 ;>H.t :,,,,! ,1,0 coast of .Maine Usl.iningi,, ,1„. .,„,. 
 l^l>e>vl„.re all was fil|,.,l ,,. „,., ,,,,„,,^^ ^^,^^^^,^ 
 
 Ulan, lay Greou Mountai,,, oovcaing ,1,„ n.ore 
 
 ScLola,, ..oceutly let ]o„s. f.,,,, Yal., L f,.,,,! of 
 
 -k.^ ..IUK.„s. ,t-ua, classics ; and ou the. vav,,, 1.0 
 Im. la ,,.,.c,| to slanv „s ,l,e .c.cn.Uance of li, nlc's 
 J''hM,,u, 77„,//„,,„, ,„ „„^ ^.„i,.^. ,„. „^^ , _ 
 
 -n-ln,ga.a ]!.,tnou■,asuclayn,,,lc,■,l,,....,l:a.|ou■ 
 "' '"^ "",'•"' "'" ^''•"'' "-^ 'I'-vn fo,,l, f,..„. , ,i,,,. 
 
 l"-l.ct, where it ha,l halanccl the o, she l„n..l:eon. 
 
 ■"'^. (o |,eri;,r,n a new service. The .SclaWar ih. ht 
 
 "'I'l iK^vn, we agree,! will, hin,. that one line convevc,! 
 ^"'""'■^'I'lv the ..•l,a,-ac,e,is,ics of .Meant IJese,-,. ll„n,e.- 
 
 T "' ':"' " "'■'■■■ '"''">" ^'''"'""y " "(ai„s a„,l 
 
 "'." 7<";"<""Ssea"; •• .\,„1 „ow," sai,l Tl„. S.^holat- 
 "just look at G,ee„ .M,„„„ain:- We enthnsiasticallv 
 ait .-le.l , e idea. The o],I Ha,-,! ,,l,o,o,.,„,hs botL 
 tli'^ i-lcs ot 0,-cece an,i .Mount Jfe:ert J,ei..l,(s ■ 
 
 l!<it a h,„gt,-an,,, was l.efWe us.an,l'we ,li,I not 
 -'^•lay 10 v,ew the two lessc,' peaks of .Xew,.e,.t which 
 break the long ,-a„ge in its aesccnt to tl,e .ea at Otter 
 
 iSiTpo ,,axr,„6i,noi- i-u ohi^oi alrwi daw 
 
.%* 
 
 0-^ 
 
 
 IMAGE EVALUATION 
 TEST TARGET (MT-S) 
 
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 S iZ 111112:0 
 
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 ^ 
 
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 Photographic 
 
 Sdences 
 Corporation 
 
 23 WEST MAIN STREET 
 
 WEBSTER, NY. 14580 
 
 (716) 872-4503 
 
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 &9 
 
90 
 
 AjHoniT the Mountains. 
 
 Creek ; nor to view '' Loch Anna," a little body of 
 water named l)y Clr.ircli, who saw it set like a dia- 
 mond in tlie lower spur. Witli regret we bade adieu 
 to this romantic lieiglit, where tlie earth and sky seem 
 so much in love witli one another, and bejxan the toil- 
 soni(.' descent westward down over the steep cliffs and 
 tbrongli the pathless woods. Finally we touched the 
 b)wer spur of Kound Peak, and then pushed vigor- 
 ously on, until we struck the Otter Creek read, and 
 found ourselves in Kcbo Notch, which is walled in by 
 the steep sides of Di-y Mountain. Here, overshad- 
 owe<l bv the towerino- cliil's, one almost fancies himself 
 in the White Mounlain Notch. In a calm day the 
 ( clio is s[)lendid. Some verses composed for Lippin^ 
 cotCs MtKjozinc so well describe the place that they 
 may be given here : 
 
 " (jrirn niountaiii Spiitel that, robed in T»oo(l8, 
 Dost sit among those liills, their rightful King, 
 Forgive tlic wight who rashly dares 
 Jo vex thy silence with his questioning. 
 
 oidc. HOT* n> ^6iri i()ii3ulaia, [SuTiavEiprf, 
 Kap~dv idrjXf/aavT'' tiTtiudXa rroAk fUTa^i) 
 oipt'd re OKiuevra, •QuAAancd t£ r/Xf'jiaan. 
 
 Iliad, B. I., 1. 152. 
 
 Well dost Ihon know that 'twas no feud of mine, 
 
 Witli Tioy's biuvo son« that brought ino here in nrins; 
 
 i hey never did nic wrong; they never drovo 
 
 3I\ cattle or my hoises; never sought 
 
 ]n riithia's I'eitiie, life-sustaining fields. 
 
 'J"o waste the crops; for wide between us lay 
 
 The shadowy uiountaius and tlic roaring sea. 
 
 DKRnr'8 TnAXSLATION. 
 
A mong the Mountains. 9 1 
 
 Adown tli_v Ptoep and ru^^'i.-^od flanks 
 The black fir ;,'!ooms and the pair aspens quuor. 
 And o'er thy glit^fcniiip. wind-Mvept cliflfj, 
 The niot^gy, perlinned stream let.s leap iorever. 
 
 We call to Iheo; our Aeble cry 
 
 Dies 'pninst the loeky Aices of thy throne; 
 
 And from the shaj^szy bosom comes 
 
 Thine answer, deep-voiced as an organ tone. 
 
 In tlnit broad brea;-t i;o human heart 
 To liuman [inlses answereth again : 
 'I he wandering wretch, in \\i . d-patlis lo^t, 
 To thv stern lace I'or pi*y looks in vi^in. 
 
 Within that Sj)l,in.\-Iike lace we lain 
 
 Would read the riddle of life's fleeting story— 
 
 Thy calm eternal would we grasp, 
 
 And gild our gloom with thy lar->liining glory. 
 
 * Hutthou! Thou gaz"st on thof-ea. 
 
 AVith flr-crowned, stony brow that changes never: 
 
 We leave thee, in dumb mystery, 
 
 Dread Sprite! to heave that hoary bulk forever." 
 
 Om- dostiiiiitioii was tlic top cf Green .AruiinKiii,, 
 and anotlier scranihlo was inevitable. I'heiefore, 
 uithoiit miieh delay, we stnick tlironol^ tlie prettv 
 sa-i.) of wood skii'tin- tl.e foot of tlie eminence, found 
 a narrow wooded ravine, and, kee])in<r where we could 
 lake advan(a<;e of tlie trees, woikod ,,ur way up. 
 From tlu' fnot of the mounlain \\e saw linle "moro 
 llian what appeared an almost peij.endicidar <j^ranite 
 wall, hut we weie -:aiiriod (o iind this convenient 
 ^^move. though it was filled up wiih inunen.^e ma.s.ses 
 «'f fallen rocks, over which we were forced to clinih. 
 After an hour's hihor we were linally able to overlook 
 the peak of Newport and view the hea. Jn a (pmrter 
 
92 
 
 Antojior the Mountains. 
 
 of an hour more wc wci'c on the top of tliis spur, 
 railed Di-y ]\r(juntain. ijickinii" l)lueherries and seeking 
 for the best w;iy across the ravine which separated lis 
 from Cireen. AVe fnially deci<led to 'tak'? the most 
 shallou' ])art of the ravine and push straight across. 
 At this place the mountain appears to have; -heen split 
 in two, lea\ing the steep walls f)cing each other on 
 either hand. To i:(.'t down the east side is ncarlv as 
 diilicult its to get up the west, while at every step we 
 were in daniii'er of dislodiiinix huue masses of rock that 
 needed scarcely more than a fiiiiier's touch to send 
 them thundering helow. AVliere the ojierjition was 
 safe we found it capital sport, hut i)ru(lence taught ns 
 on these occasions to keep close together, lest some 
 ilying boul(k'r slhndd swee[) one of us into the hlack 
 ravine. At the hottom is a dense forest of spi-uce and 
 lir ; and among the loose rocks, covered in some places 
 to tin; (k'i)th of nearly a foot with soft, green, S})ongy 
 moss, was a small, ice-cold stream, tinkling nuisically 
 ou its way to Otter Creek. In this shady chasm, 
 
 *' An hydcoiis hole al vnste, witliouton shape, 
 Ul' undloss Ui'i>li, orewlielnulo \\i\\\ iJi;^gc(i stouc," 
 
 tlie atmospliere was as frigid as the water, and, with 
 chattering teeth, wc again sought the soft snnnner air. 
 lUit now we found the liai'dest climb of all. The 
 {Scholar, (piite forgetting Homer and the *' shadowy 
 mountains," llun<x his stalwart frame against the iron 
 clilfs and gave ns a splendid illustration of muscular 
 
 i- 
 
^mmmmmmmmrmmimiKr 
 
 Aiiiou!^^ tlic Mountains. 
 
 93 
 m.", „ ^ .1,, ,,„i ,„„„,,, ^,^ ^,^,^1^ 
 
 o.u ,0 duni, ,hc trees ,.„„1 sui,,^. ,.,n-.elve. ,„; 
 
 lint ,I,e .,,„set viev. f,-,,,,, ,|,e Mnnnm wns .,ill 
 be.o..e us a„.l we ,so„„ l.as.ene,! ,„, .,„„, n,e le,, ' 
 
 Creel V '^^^^ 
 
 b mu n,e w,,„d.,Ue win, .. nn„r„l o,' .sneks. We 
 
 b. ,m.l,a,.an.U,espol.ea<l,.e, w,,iel, wass,,,., 
 
 ^'-'^in.gm the stove, a.l,li„g „,„dM„ ,.,„• o„„,;„, 
 ■Supper hkewise ten,le.l to put us iu a n.o,,., ,. ; 
 
 bcoveu,„sp,rotee cs ot OI,l Sol. a,,,, u l,ile 1, ^^ 
 
 l"'ei>anu. to .Iran- ,l,e 1,,.,.,,^ ,„,„,„, ,, „,^ ^ , t^ 
 
 :;:;•;:''■'.';' ■''■•' ''•-.- -'^i.i-vetoo.ors, ■: 
 
 •'". .oa,l. J iMs journey is o„e that ahvavs r,.p.,vs 
 be ..vesttueut of n.u.ele, tl.ougl. it is ..Jver /,;,;. 
 U';.V;''-ba,.at,„eeveuiu.,,o„r. Hon ,„.aun,:„ 
 
 , . '". ^"T''' ""'■"''' ''''■''■ J'-s'-^ j-1-^ "biu;. 
 
 "'-n, a. „,e ,.,.|eu li,,,t, „,e ,,,;,,..,„, ,i^,, , 
 Sollies' .Sound aiHl Jiiue Hill ,i, ]■ ' , 
 sptcti.U ptrtes, Sa,o,.nt-s j^ray and ,iu.|<v side. , 
 
 iimi- 
 
94 
 
 Avion c tJic Mountains. 
 
 I 
 
 ' 
 
 borlcss green valleys and lesser liill-tops, find tlie 
 islanded and pnrpling ^vatel•s of Fiencliman's I'ay — 
 all these combine to form a most enchanting picture 
 Avhich assnmes new combinations and jn-odnces ex- 
 <]uisite efiects at every turn in the winding road. 
 Along the lower slopes, however, the daylight disap- 
 peared, and through the 0[)ening in the woods we saw 
 ♦'^'^ stars being slowly lighted np ; while the niglit- 
 nawks circled aronnd onr heads, uttering what at this 
 h(Mir always seems snch a monrnful crv. I>rinii;in2: 
 otTas I did a heavy snrain as a souvenir of the ti'amp, 
 I gave way slightly to the inihiences of the hour and 
 walked on in silence at a little distance l)ehind niv 
 
 ft- 
 
 friends, whom I heard discussing all sorts of ^-ubjects, 
 beginning with " Culprit Fay," and ending with the 
 resj)ective merits of Theology and J^aw. The disciple 
 of lilackstone stoutly averred thnt the Law made 
 men i-emarkaldy exact, ^vhile 'I'heology tended to 
 looseness, there being no o})po.sition counsel in court 
 to pick him in pieces. Of course his view was duly 
 refuted ; though for my own })art 1 thought that both 
 ^yere about half riiiht. I mention this simidy to show 
 the turn which thouii'lit often takes here, the mornini; 
 fancy often ending in ipiestions of fact. Two hours 
 after sunset we reached home. 
 
 jSText to Green JMountain, on the west, is Pemetic, 
 so called f(U- the jairpo.se of i)erpetuating the Indian 
 name of JMount Desert. It extends south-eastwardly 
 
tmww^fmm'^^mi^^mfm 
 
 A/;w//(r tJic Mountains, 
 
 95 
 
 from the oiul of Eaiilo L;ikc, Jiiid iirjultiallv bli.ks 
 down towards tlic sea, preseiitiiiin" ii sliai-p gianiie 
 ridge, which, wlicii viewed IVtiiii the iiortli, laiily 
 clcjives the sk}'. Jt may 1)0 readied t'loin Wwv llai- 
 bor bv the wav of llie Otter Crrck road, v« : "lie 
 iouriiev is too lonii'. The sliort route is t(j a.^eend 
 Eagle J>ake and climb its steep side. Landing on 
 one of the two white sand beaches at the head of the 
 lake, we struck into the woods, keeping ju.^t within 
 the border of the old forest, as the recent growth is 
 well nigh im})as>able, on account of tlu; (hui^-e thickets. 
 
 Glancing at the mountain, we concluded that half 
 an hour would be sullicient to take us to the t(»[). 
 Yet we were greatly disaj^pointed, criing both in 
 reiiard to the heii-ht to be climl)ed and the diiliculties 
 to be encountered. The fallen tind)er di>(»utcd our 
 progress at nearly every step, while for about thiee 
 quarters of an hour the sumndt continued to recede. 
 Still we scrand)led on, and, atujr getting clear of the 
 woods, made our wav from led^^e to ledi2(?, until we 
 stood upon the topmost of the series, ^vhich terminate 
 on the east side in })erpendicidar walls. 
 
 Nearly an hour and a half was consun^'d in i-(^aeh- 
 infj the summit of I'emetic, which is l)oth j-iand and 
 bare. It is suilicicntly high to all()r<l a glimpse of the 
 Green Mountain House on the east, and a full view 
 of the recesses of Sarjjent and the liubble ^iountams. 
 Northward is the lake, and ni(.'ie distant the rt gion 
 around Trenton I5rid<»e, while :-outhuai<l is a >U! erb 
 
11. W IMipPlWl, ' mi"^. 
 
 96 
 
 Among tJie Mountains. 
 
 view of the islands and tlic ^ea. The i>lan(ls prob- 
 ably appear to better nd vantage f'n)m this point than 
 any other. On Green ^Mountain the tonrist is too far 
 above them and the details are lost ; bnt here the 
 floating masses of pale green assnme a defniite ehar- 
 acter, and profitably employ the eye. 
 
 Still what most impressed us was the wildness of 
 the seene. The upper i)ortion of Pemetie is a mass 
 of rose-colored granite descending eastward in a 
 series of long gigantic steps ; ^vhile the lialf-covered 
 sides of Green Mountain combiiie with the j^ositive 
 desolation of Sargent to ccmplete the rugged charac- 
 ter of the view and till it with romantic interest. 
 Jordan's l*ond also adds an imiioi'tant feature, lyin<T 
 cradled under the cliils of Sargent, dark and threat- 
 ening, and appearing altogcither as if it would like to 
 drown one. This is a splendid place in which to pass 
 tlie day, or to camp at night, while to the artist or 
 photographer it is wortli a fortune. 
 
 The d-er are still fonnd in the mountains. Last 
 summer a Harvard student found a i)air of antlers 
 on Pemetie. As is well known, thev shed them 
 every year, at least until they reach old age ; which is 
 the case with the moose, who throws off antlers weiirh- 
 ing from twenty-five to fifty pounds as easily as a Jew 
 puts off '' old do'. " The deer swim off to the isjand 
 from the main-land every fall to escape the dogs that 
 are set to driving- them out of the woods. Forty 
 years ago, I am told, the deer were strangers to tlve 
 
Aviojig the Mountains. c^y 
 
 place; and if the Imntiiiir wore stopped iti rlie iic;<r], . 
 boring regions tliey w..iild soon disappear fVoni the 
 \>hi\\d. r>iit, as it is tV(sli stock comes on every 
 antunm. The Dhhown Indians resort here every 
 season to hnnt tliem, in connection wiili tlic otter, fox, 
 wihl-cat, mnskrat, and mink. 'J'he law allows thJ 
 deer to he hunted f)r three months, ending with the 
 fif:eenth of Decemher. I-i coming here Uie Indians 
 simply followed the custom of their ancestors. Tin; 
 old chronicders occasionally mention thcdr visits, as 
 is the case with Iluhhard, ^ ho connects it with the 
 captivi.y of young Cohett, son of tiie miidster at 
 Ipswich, IMassachusetts, who was taken ])risoner by 
 the Indians, near l\)rtland, in 1(;77. IIo was after- 
 wards taken l)y his " pateroon," or master, to Mount 
 Desert, where he was accustomed tosj)end his winters, 
 and arrange Ids hunting expeditions. IIubl)ard says : 
 "In (hat dcsertdike condition was the poor young 
 man forced to continue nine weeks in the service of a 
 savnge miscreant, who sometimes would tyrannize over 
 him, because lie could not underMand liis languaire, 
 and for want thereof might occasioii him to miss his 
 game, or the like." At the end of nine weeks " on a 
 sudden he Un.k a resolution to send this young man 
 down to Peno])seot to :\Ir. [IJaron] Casteen to j.ro- 
 cure more i)owder to kill moose and deer, which it 
 seems is all their way of livitig at IMount Desert." 
 This journey led to his ransom, which was fuially 
 effected by being exchanged for a good coat. Hub- 
 
98 
 
 Amo;/e' tJie Mountains. 
 
 bard tells us liow that on one occasion while a pris- 
 oner on the island lie went out to hunt, and was so 
 overcome by the cold that he became senseless, and 
 that the Indians were obliged to take him on their 
 shoulders and carrv him to the nearest wiiijwam. 
 Formerly, also, the beaver was plenty here, as is still 
 attested by the remains of their dams. 
 
 V 
 
 Between Pemetic and Sarnrent lie the Bubble Moun- 
 tains, or Twins. The larger of the two heights stands 
 at the head, or north end of Jordan's Pond, and the 
 other advances along the eastern side. They form 
 the two principal peaks of a ridge lying on the west 
 side of Kagle Lake. Between this ridge and Sar- 
 gent's IMountain is a narrow valley rising at its north- 
 ern extremity even with the lesser elevation, and 
 furnishing an additional water-shed to Jordan's Pond. 
 The whole region between Eagle Lake and Sargent's 
 Mountain is covered with a dense forest of somewhat 
 recent growth that effectually bars every approach to 
 
 The Twins. 
 
 One day we made a party to climb them, and 
 started from Bar Harbor at nine o'clock in the morn- 
 ing. Walking to Eagle Lake, we found the boats all 
 out, and therefore tried to find our way through the 
 woods, beating about among the bushes until high 
 noon. At this time we gave up the attempt and 
 divided, one party striking out westward to scale Sar- 
 gent's Mountain and return home by Jordan's Pond 
 
 L 
 
 -■-^^■^^.^.a^..jAzt.,... 
 
Aino?fg the Mouutaius. 99 
 
 and tlie Otter Cm-k road, wliile tlio ofhfr roturnod to 
 tlie McFarland House to form some new plan, 'riicie 
 I <lrove a liard l)ariraln for a boat which was just 
 returninir down the lake, stipulatini^ that when done 
 with it shonld be left on the beaeh at the oth<'r end, 
 from whence the owner shonld bring it home again at 
 his convenience. At half past two o'clock we got 
 into the boat and rowed np the lake against a heavy 
 breeze and a short, chop sea, which severely taxed 
 our strength. Landing at last on the farthest sand 
 beach, we crossed the creek to the west, and sti-nck 
 np the steep side of the Bubble lidnc keeimx'- well to 
 the right, and touched the top after a lively scramble 
 of twenty minutes. Starting from thence in a south- 
 erly direction through trees and underwood, ten min- 
 utes more brought us to the highest point, when the 
 object of the expedition was declared accomplished. 
 And the result amply repaid us for all the toil of the 
 day, affording as it did some of the grandest views, 
 besides an accurate knowledge of the geograj)hy of 
 this part of the island. Westward, and far above us, 
 lay Sargent's iMountain, holding up to our gaze its 
 torn and rifted sides; to the north stretched what we 
 may call the Valley of The Twins ; on the east the 
 forest cut oiftlie prospect of Eagle Lake, while south- 
 ward lay Jordan's Pond and the islands out at sea. 
 
 As we sat gazing upon the summit of Sargent, our 
 friends whom we had left in the woods appeared in 
 the form of two dark specks, moving along the ridge 
 
TOO 
 
 A7iio?i(^ the Mountaius. 
 
 ai^aiiist tlio cvoniiiij sky- One was a Ilarvartl Colleiio 
 nndci'uiTadnatc, \v1k), tli(^ yoar Ix'i'oro. rowccl liis wlieri'v 
 from liosioii to Mount I)<'s(Mt. Tlicv lia«l fonnlit 
 tlicir way lliroui^h tlio thickets to tlio top of Sarg<Mit, 
 and woi'o iiow^ taking a lifioon mile walk lioinc. 
 (Quickly aiTanglng a signtd with our ])OclvCt har.dker- 
 cliiefs, wo lioistcd it on a polo, and gave a united 
 sliout. The siirnal was reco«xniz(Ml. and the sound of 
 our voices, aided by the wind, also succeeded in get- 
 ting across the gn-at gulf that separated us, and tlien 
 crept up to Sargent's ridge. A faint halloo came 
 back in leply, and then, after viewing one another for 
 some time, we started homeward ])y opposite routes, 
 our own coverinji as ijood as a doz(Mi miles. Of the 
 distance separating the two peaks we could form no 
 estimate. The voice of the sentinel has been heard 
 soundinix the ''All's well" from Old to New Gibraltar. 
 a distance of nine miles ; yet our own voices probably 
 did not leach half as far. 
 
 On our i-eturn we paused a few minutes at the brink 
 of the clills overlooking Kagle Lake to enjoy the 
 beauty of the prospect here spread out befor ^ us, it 
 being an exquisite mingling of lake, mountain, and 
 forest, and then cautiously descended to the strand. 
 We embarked, rowed to the Eastern shore, beached 
 the boat, and then struck through the low ground 
 which here skirts the foot of Green Mountain ; after- 
 w^ards going up its steep sides and reaching the top 
 in an hour and a quarter. Arriving at the Mouu- 
 
Amoiis t!'c Mountains. 
 tain House wo fdniid a 
 
 101 
 
 , „ . company ,l„ly assc i,il,l,.,| 
 
 a.omKlUK.An,,u,,ll,.,.. i,,l,.n,li,,,. ,os,,.,v,,v,.,. ,,H., 
 I.nt as ,t was al.va.ly >uns,.t we l.a.lc nm',,. 11.,., ..^od 
 
 at I.ar IIaH,o,. ,„ an l,o,„- ami hvenlv n.innies. I 
 
 .nomK.u.oti„K.n,adut^ 
 
 m whose hands tins book mav lall. 
 
 It now o.dy remains to speak of Kel,o~]i„|,,. K,.|,o 
 --tung at tl,e foot of Green Mo„n,„in. like son,o 
 -Mar at the feet of his mas,,.-, an,l n,o.l,.s,lv reioio- 
 
 '■II'"' !-'■ ""«1 lioar in .Monnt Desert n,av p.,.rl,aps have 
 
 -versee.n.hishilkwl.iel. issetawav'al,no..,,o,„of 
 
 Mgh. Yet ,I,e walk ,o Kehois .u,e of ,l,e n.ost 
 
 ■ joyahle on ,he islan,!. Indeed, after l,ein. su.-feited 
 
 ""iMhe g,.andenr of n,..e,l .-oeks an,l trenu-ndons 
 
 P.-oc.|„ees the .ran,,nil l,ean,y that snrronnds Kel,o is 
 
 liailed as a weleonic relief. 
 
 Taking ,he Gr,.en J\Ionn,ain .-o.ad as fur as ,hc 
 cross-road at the sehool-h.n.se, an.l ,nr,nn^. „, ,he h.ft 
 lu.lt an honr-s walk f,-on, IJar Harbor brh^os us ,o ,l,e' 
 place where we gain il,e host xiow <,f K.l.o. The 
 xiew here is one of g,-eat loveliness, an.lsonie even 
 after seeing ove>-y other part of ,l,o island, i,avo not 
 iiesitafed to ],rononnoo it the host of all. 'J'lds 
 however, is beoanso nolliing i„ partienlar is geiuTally- 
 expected, and the pieturc forn,, a ph-asant sn,-p,.ise. 
 ikereut the border of the Holds rises this litile bill 
 
102 Among tJie Mountains, 
 
 witli its perpendicular eastern face, whiie beyond are 
 Newport, liouiid Peak, Dry, and Green Mountains. 
 All now appear verdure-clad to their very summits. 
 Between Dry and Xew})ort is Echo Notch, through 
 which we can look, and at the same time have a view 
 of the ravine which sweeps down from between Dry 
 and Green Mountains. From this point we continue 
 on past a couple of farm-honses until we reach a pic- 
 ures({ue old mill, when, if we desire to climb Kebo, 
 we must cnjss the stream, turn up the wood-road to 
 the right, and follow on until the west side is gained, 
 from whence the ascent is easily made. No path will 
 be found until near the top, nor is one really needed, 
 since there are so few obstacles in ihe wav. Half or 
 three quarters of an hour will bring the slowest 
 walkers thither, where the most lovely panorama is 
 spread out. Kebo has an elevation of not more than 
 three or four hundred feet, but here we realize onco 
 more that there is no necessary connection between 
 height and beauty. Here, too, in the favorable light, 
 the whole region ap[)eared clothed in living green. 
 Even the dry Porcupines out in Frenchman's Bay, 
 which at noon-day usually wear a barren as[)ect, now 
 glowed with a deep emerahl light, and the face of 
 nature -was everywhere wreathed in smiles. From 
 this position the structure of Kebo also becomes ap- 
 l)arent, and it is found to be a ridge with two well- 
 dcMned peaks running parallel with Green and fading 
 away on the side of Dry Mountain. Between Kebo 
 
Anton (T the Mountains. 
 
 103 
 
 and Greeii is a broad and beautiful valley ; while east 
 of the former elevation runs a bow-shaped ridge, bend- 
 ing westward, and reaching from the gateway of Echo 
 Notch to the cross-road already mentioned. This 
 ridge, marked on the map as The Gate of the Notch, 
 is quite high and flat at its southern end, and when 
 seen from Frenchman's Bav it seems to lie directly 
 
 V ft 
 
 across the entrance to this s})lendid vale ; yet in walk- 
 ing to Otter Creek the pedestrian will lind that the 
 Gate conveniently stands ajar. 
 
 In returning from Kebo, we tried to descend the 
 clifls on the east side, but were forced to give it up, 
 the sheer, rocky walls being too much for us. We 
 accordingly retraced our stejis. In the fields we found 
 Agricola, raking hay, and asked what amount of tilthy 
 lucre would induce him to give us the exclusive pos- 
 session of his little pastoral j)aradise next season. This 
 enchanted isle, with all its sweet nooks and romantic 
 corners, could furnish nothing better for a sunnner 
 home. With little Kebo, we bid the mountains adieu. 
 
THE LAKE REGION. 
 c II A r T i: li Yin. 
 
 Seal Cove Pond — Di:x\iNf;'s Lake — Storm Cliff — 
 Long Lake — .Ioiidax's Pond — Idling — A Shower — 
 Eagle Lake — The Snake Stori — Boatixg without 
 
 « 
 
 Oars. 
 
 AKKS liko those of Mount Desert cannot 
 lliil to excite iidmiration. licautiful in 
 themselves, tliey give to the snrroundini^ 
 rciiion as nnicli as thev receive. Tliey 
 are not all dignilied by the name of lake, several 
 being known simply as ponds. Three of these spark- 
 lirjiT sheets of water lie on each side of Somes' 
 Sound. 
 
 The most ■western is known as Seal Covc Pond. 
 It lies on the north-east of Western Mountain and 
 empties into Seal Co\e. It is about four miles in 
 length, and in its broadest part about a fourth of a 
 mile in width. A dam at the lower end })revents the 
 salt water from llowini:' in, while the fresh water does 
 good service at the mill as it Hows out. The ride 
 fi'oin South-west Harbor to Seal Cove has many 
 attractioMs. The distance is about live miles, and in 
 reaching the lake it is necessaiy to go ct)mi)letely 
 around the spur of Western Mountam. The cove 
 
 i 
 
The Lake Region, 
 
 \0' 
 
 was famous in former times as tiie resort of seal>. At 
 pi'esent it is a snug harbor for i^niall craft, ii umbers of 
 which are built here. At the liead of the cove a high 
 bridge is crossed, and, turning to the riglit, the lake 
 comes in full view. At this place tliei'e ai-e a few 
 houses, yet the general appearance of things is rather 
 sleep}'. There is good fishing to l)e liad, and trout 
 and i)erch are usually ready fo/ the hook, liut we 
 did not delay to test their appetite, nor excn to row 
 on the lak(;, as the clouds seemed to p-r()mi>e raiM. 
 The water looked somciwhat daik, and aiound the 
 shore the vegetation indicated that it w:. shallow, 
 though in the centi'al portions it is deep enough. At 
 the head of the lake is a pond which ser\es as a sort 
 uf feeder. In passing on to Somesville we noticed 
 i)ut few dwelliniis, thoui:h we saw no less than two 
 meeting-houses with their roofs fallinir in. Formerly 
 they were occu[)ied by Ikiptisls, but on in(piiry we 
 learned that the religious interest formerly felt had 
 greatly declined. 
 
 Jiefore reachiuix Somesville, charmiiio- views wci'e 
 gained of the waters of the north shore of the island 
 towards Trenton Dridiie. The outlet of Loni; Lake 
 was also seen as we passed. The water at this point 
 runs toward the sound, and, owing to the operations 
 of the mill, savored somewhat of the character of a 
 saw-dust soup. 
 
 In going from Somesville to South-west Harbor on 
 what is called the Pretty-marsh Road, we had a line 
 
io6 
 
 TJie Lake Region, 
 
 opportunity for observing Dennhig's Lake, which is 
 about four miles long. For u couple of miles the road 
 runs nearly along its shore, and the view is unob- 
 structed by foliage. This lake boasts a single island. 
 On the opposite side the long slope of Beech Moun- 
 tain rises in its own peculiar beauty. As we go 
 southward, the road gradually ascends along the base 
 of Dog Mountain, while at the head of this lake Beech 
 Mountain suddenly shoots up into the air, presenting 
 that immense precipice known as Storm Cliff, and of 
 which mention has already been made. In the bright- 
 est weather it wears a threatening aspect, and seems 
 to frown. The w^all of debris accumulated here at 
 the foot of the cliff, descends rapidly to the deep water, 
 which lies dark and sullen in the shade. This ram- 
 part of rock, lifting itself up into the sky, looks as if it 
 would last forever, yet the unseen, but acting powers 
 of the air are busily at work flinging down fragment 
 on fragment, and the time may eventually come when 
 the dee[) water on its front will not float a boat. The 
 expression of the lake at this point is grand. Words 
 cannot convey a just sense of its impressive character. 
 In visiting these two lakes we complete a circle, 
 still leaving Long Lake, which lies between them, to 
 be examined. The distance from South-west Har- 
 bor is about two and a half miles, by the Beech 
 Mountain road, from which we finally diverge to- 
 wards the westward, or left, and again at the i)roper 
 distance, to the right. This lake is totally unlike, and 
 
TJie Lake Rczion. 
 
 107 
 
 has no connection with, the other two. It is situated 
 in a long deep valley, or trough, between Beech and 
 Western Mountains, which at the south end of the 
 lake rises gracefully upward on either hand, like the 
 inner side of a ship's walls, clothed with veiihne to 
 the top. We descend to its mai'gin by a rongli wood- 
 road, gaining through the openings in the trees an 
 occasional glimpse of the water, which, in a clear day, 
 borrows its color, tone and expiession from the skies ; 
 yet, at certain hours, the woody mountains phot' giaph 
 their green forms on its face. 
 
 The forest comes down to the edge of the water, 
 except at the end, where there is a beautiful beach, 
 drawn in the form of a bow, and covered with hand- 
 some granite pebbles. Here is found a lovely s})ot 
 either for pic-nic occasions or solitary hours. The 
 lake at this point is not broad, and a projecting spur 
 denies an extensive view ; yet this circumstance pre- 
 pares the way for a pleasing surpiise, when we get 
 fairly launched in a boat. Descending the lake, the 
 prospect opens until we look down the watery vista to 
 the end. The beauty nowhere rises into grandeur, as 
 at Denning's Lake, yet wc find ourselves in a kind of 
 picture-gallery, where an artist might proiitably spend 
 a week imbibing the pure lessons of nature. 
 
 When at 15ar Harbor every person should improve 
 the occasion to visit Eagle Lake and Jordan's Pond. 
 The latter sheet of water may be reached from South- 
 west Harbor, by crossing Somes' Sound, and in going 
 
io8 
 
 The Lake Rc^ioji. 
 
 
 by this route a view may be had of Iladlock's Pond ; 
 yet most persons will liiid it quite as satisfactory to 
 take their departure from the opposite side of the 
 island, for the reason that this route requires the 
 employment of only one mode of travel. 
 . Iladlock's l*ond has some attractions, being com- 
 posed of two bodies of water connected by an apology 
 for a creek, over which the road to North-east Harbor 
 passes, but it does not demand a special visit. Jor- 
 d^in's Pond, however, will well repay the journey of 
 about nine miles from 15a r Harbor. The route lies 
 by the way of Echo Notch and Otter Creek. About 
 three miles beyond the latter jdace, the road to Jor- 
 dan's touches the main road, turniuij back from it at a' 
 sharp angle, and running northwaid for the distance 
 of a mile to the Jordan farm-house, w hich stands near 
 the outlet of the lake. This is the onlv dweliins; 
 found here. Attached is a barn and some outbuild- 
 ings that have felt the hand of time. The situation is 
 solitary, but it is one of nuich beauty, and is capable 
 of great improvement as a place of resort. A short 
 walk through the fields terminates at the outlet of the 
 lake, marked by a dam and the skeleton of a mill. 
 The lake, for this is too line a body of w ater to call a 
 pond, is about two miles long, and about half a mile 
 wide, lying between the southern s[)ur of Sargent's 
 Mountain and I'emetic, with the Pubble Mountains, 
 or Twins, at its head. The eastern face of Sargent 
 looks tow'ard the lake, \\ Inch, according to the fashiou 
 
T/ic Lake Region. io( 
 
 of tliese iiH„nitai.:s, chives a ]n,:g line of splendid elili; 
 rising magnilicenlly against tlic3 sky, a so.-t of Titanic 
 wall. IVnietic looks across the lake at Lis nei-ddmr, 
 appearing grand and gray; while the Twins si" side 
 side by side at the north,, alike clad, as is meet, in 
 robes (jflivino- o-i-een. 
 
 It was noon-tide when we reached the lake, wliere, 
 among the rocks on the shore, tlie cuisuie was set up' 
 and a fire pnt to crackling nnder a borrowed kettle, 
 which was supported by a pine crotch. Amarii fi 
 prononneed the cort'ee prime; and when lunch was 
 over we launched an old dory for the purpose of gohpr 
 on a voyage. Ikit our plans wei-e doomed to perisl^, 
 for no sooner did the dory touch the lake than the' 
 water spurted up through a lunnlred lioles. There- 
 upon Piscator cut a birch rod, produce.! his instru- 
 ments of torture, and went off to inveigle the hapless 
 trout. Disappearing among the bushes bordering the 
 stream, he was seen no more until, in answer to our 
 halloos, he left liis rod aifd came forth to go Iiome 
 having a string of fish in liis hand for to-morrow'J 
 breakfast. 
 
 As for the rest of us, we lounged away tlie wliole 
 afternoon on the shore of the lake, saying, amornr 
 other things, liow fine it would be to push throu-h the 
 dense underwood skirting the feet of Sargem and 
 scale the cliffs. We contented ourselves, however 
 with words. ' 
 
 It was interesting here to note the changes that 
 
no 
 
 The Lake Region, 
 
 gradually took place on the lake. As the afternoon 
 wore on and the slanting shadows were developing 
 on the sides of the Twins, we found, as was also the 
 case when we afterwards climbed them, that they did 
 not stand side by side, but that one was pushed far in 
 advance of the other, making out on the eastern side 
 of the lake. 
 
 Towards six o'clock it ])egan to grow damp and 
 misty, and the fog gathered around the Twins, which 
 caused one of the party to suggest that they were 
 putting on their cloaks, preparatory to a general meet 
 of the mountains. So we thought that we had better 
 '>e going too. Therefore, after looking into the old 
 farm-house, to see a man with only one leg, competing 
 with the Lowell looms in the manufacture of cotton 
 flannel, for weaving which he received ten cents a 
 yard, we packed into our carriage, — an open one, — and 
 drove off. Soon we h.ad a pouring rain, with light- 
 ning and thunder, but Piscator drove up hill and 
 down like mad, and brought us to Bar Harbor in less 
 than two hours. 
 
 The last of the lakes to be mentioned is Eagle 
 Lake, so called by Church, w^ho sketched at Mount 
 Desert during a number of summers. It stands higher 
 above the sea than the other lakes, and is only two 
 and a half miles from Bar Harbor. The outlet is 
 found in a depression of the road half a mile beyond 
 the foot of Green Mountain, and will be recognized 
 
iwiiBimwiifif-ww^iCOTnipiVIHV^Pppnr''^ 
 
 The Lake Region. 
 
 Ill 
 
 by the frame of an old mill, wl.leli formeilv made tlie 
 water do some liard work. Of late years the mill 
 interests in this region have been in a poor con- 
 dition. 
 
 A short path tln-ough the bushes brings ns to the 
 shore of the lake, from whence the view up to its head 
 is unobstructed. The lake in its general characteristics 
 IS bright and beautiful. It can hardly be said to pos- 
 sess the element of grandeur, under any circumstances, 
 yet artists will perhaps find that it has more material 
 for i)ictures tlian any other in the island. It is about 
 two miles long, and of tolerable openness at the skies, 
 wliile the country towards the north is sulliciently 
 low to afford distant views of the nearest mainland. 
 On the east side are the flanks of Green Mountain, 
 sweeping gradually up towards the apex, and on thj 
 west is the low ridge running north from the sides of 
 the Twins, while still flirther west is seen the huge 
 form of Sargent, its bold peak towering upward to the 
 sky. At the south end the aspect of Pemeiic is re- 
 markably beautiful and bold. Starting near the east 
 side of the lake, its ridge runs diagonally away towards 
 the south-east, the top being sharp and rounded like 
 the edge of an upturned hatchet. -Without even a 
 human being, the scene, especially when the lake is 
 ruffled, seems full of life. So great is the variety, 
 that even the solitary boatman seldom feels alone. 
 
 But as regards boats the lakes of Mount Desert are 
 not particularly well provided, and it will often bo 
 
 
I 12 
 
 The Lake Region. 
 
 found necessarv to omploy som(i wrctclied liiilk, unless 
 cai'ff'ul {)i-()\id()n is made by an arrangement in ad- 
 vance. In tlie account of liubble Mountain I spoke 
 of rowing up tlie lake, l)ut on another occasion I was 
 n;)t fortunate in securini*; ;i ijood boat, and Theoloiricus 
 and mvself were obliii-ed to mj up to Pemetic in ati 
 old leaky yawl, bedaubed with tar, with short ])ieces 
 of board fn* oars. It was a beautiful afternoon, how- 
 ever, and a light breeze from the north favored ns, so 
 that we pa<l(lk'(l thoughtlessly u[) the lake, not think- 
 ing how we should get back. As we passed the cliffs 
 in the Ijubble ridge, they seemed to come forward 
 towards the water to look down upon iis, and then 
 gradually with(b-aw from sight. Towards tiie upper 
 end they are between three and four hundred feet 
 high, and crowned with plumes of pine. In one jdace 
 the birches are so intermini>led with the arbor vita:', 
 that it is impossible to go through without a sharp 
 axe. At this end is a number of beautiful sand 
 beaches, on one of which I found the track of deer. 
 There are i)lenty of lake trout to be had, though 
 of other kinds of lish there are none. I was here told 
 of a great water-snake which formerly made its habi- 
 tation in the lake. The story goes, that; in a fire, 
 which burned the woods, he w^as overtaken and broiled 
 alive. I afterwards found that the story had travelled 
 as far as Grand ^lenan, and the reader may be assured 
 that it lost nothing in the passage. At that place I 
 met a Lubec fisherman foi-merly acquainted with tliis 
 
mmm 
 
 mmmmmmm 
 
 The Lake Region. 
 
 n3 
 
 ••^I^nid. Ho was pmfnnn.llv superstition., and m, 
 nmm.luastoo.,-c.aM;.rl.i. lai.l, Kvr.vthi.M.- i,. tho 
 ^I^Hj.oof a u-o.Hln-n.l stnry was seized* witlf oa..vr- 
 m'ss. and l.e would dwell npnn ^l.n.ts with ap,,an.,t 
 '^'l>i^l-f. TlM. people of X,.v J^run.wi.k w.re just 
 tli'M, exeited ahoni the H.a-serp.ut se.M, in Lake Tlo- 
 I''='-l'<' ••"•'•'"n.fs of wI.irl,,f,>ovtlnM-wi,Iul.e prepara- 
 tions f.r Ms captuns lilled several <...lun,ns in tho 
 l'^'^^J"'.i<""'"='l^. l•^>l• im- own part I was seeptieal 
 und all the arguments of our frien.l the fish(>rnian did 
 iiot avail. Finally, a l>ri;^ht i<lea seemed to enter his 
 wwvA, and he hroke as follows: 
 
 '' Say, now, ain't you fioni Mount Desert ^" 
 '• Yes.*' 
 
 '' ^Vall, they Iiad one thvrc. any Iiow." 
 
 " IJ'it that, accu'ding to the aJlidavit, sworn to in 
 court, was seen fourteen miles away from tlu) laud." 
 
 '^'Sliaw, that ain't it. You've come all the way 
 from Mount Desert and ain't heeru tell on 'im. He 
 wasn't in tlie sea. Now you know that nn'o-hty pooty 
 pond up by Green :\rountain ?" 
 
 " Y^es." 
 
 "AVall, tluat's tlie place wliero the sarpint was 
 Ilo'd come right out of the pond and ketch a laml, an' 
 oat im, and they couldn't do nothin- cos l,e was so 
 big. IJnt the woods got alire an<l killed 'im, and 
 when tliey found 'im there wus forty jints of backboiie 
 a foot thick." 
 
 ''All," was the somewhat incredulous rejoinder. 
 
I" If ■" »• 
 
 114 
 
 TJic Lake Red OH. 
 
 I 
 
 '' Don't l/lieve it, liov ? Wall, then. Pie seed 'emT 
 This triumphant dcichiratioii, made? in a tone indi- 
 catini^ tlie consciousness of victory, was accompanied 
 hy an emphatic slap on Iiis knee witli a liand nearly 
 as l)road as one of his own salt mackerel. Further- 
 more, I mi<dit see one of these hones mvself at l*ass 
 Ilarhor, on my return. I, of course, promised so to 
 do, 5tt tlui same time i)ntting down the name of the 
 possessor of this remarkable but neglected relic, which 
 would Ik; sufhcient to gladden the heart of Storer or 
 Agassiz for a whole month. 
 
 liut I forgot that Theologicus and myself were just 
 now on Kagle Lake, that " mighty j^ooty pond," from 
 which we did not escape so easily. Keaching the last 
 sand-beach we climbed Pemetic. On looking around 
 for water to (luench our thirst, w^e found it was alto- 
 gether nnlike Homer's Ida, " abundant in springs," 
 and were forced to accept a draft of lichen soup from 
 a crevice in the rock. AVhile here my mind recurred 
 to a passage in Dr. Johnson's acconnt of his tour to 
 the western islands of Scotland. Being at one ])lace 
 by ease and choice, and with no immediate evil to 
 fear, he nevertheless says, that " the imaginations 
 excited bv ixn nnknown and untravelled wilderness, 
 are not such as arise in the artificial solitude of parks 
 and gardens, — a flattering notion of self-sufficiency, a 
 placid indulgence of voluntary delusions, a secure ex- 
 pansion of the fancy, or a cool concentration of the 
 mental powers. The phantoms that haunt a desert 
 
 
 % 
 
 fel 
 
 A. 
 
m'mfmitm 
 
 mmmm^mmmt^r^mmm 
 
 The Lake Region. 
 
 115 
 
 are wai)t, and misery, and (l'r\i;or; the evils of (l(M'elie- 
 tioii nisli upon tlH» tlioiiirlits ; man is made nnwilliii'dv 
 aciiuaiiitcd witli liis own weakness, and meditalion 
 shows liini liow liltle lie can sustain and how little he 
 can ])erform." The force of these observations will 
 always he felt hy thoii<ditfid minds when elimhin<'' 
 anioiio- the slippei-y elills that look down in solenm 
 grandeur ni)on the lakes of Blount Desert, but I hardly 
 agi-ee with him about the etreet of such situations 
 upon the fancy; for the unwieldy philosopher, treading 
 like some elephant among tin; rocks of Mull, was 
 timid, and therefore not (pndilied to stand, in this 
 res[^,ect, as the representative man. 
 
 AVe lingered liere until the mountain peaks around 
 ns were burnished by the rays of the setting sun, 
 when Ave were fayored with an unusually tine exhi- 
 bition in the west, the rich i^olden \Ai)\\ beinir healthy 
 in its tone, and altogether unlike those green-sick yel- 
 lows which Bierstadt sometimes forces to the jaundice 
 l^oint. 
 
 At the last moment we began to stumble down the 
 mountain amid the deepening twilight. This task 
 occupied more than an hour. Finally w^e gained the 
 boat, bailed her out, and, havini; no friendly breeze to 
 carry us back, we were obliged to use our bits of 
 board. These would have availed us nothing, if there 
 had been a contrary wind. As it turned out, however^ 
 %ye liad a beautiful, cahu starlii-ht niijht, and were 
 able to paddle slowly down the lake. The echoes 
 
ii6 
 
 The Lake Region. 
 
 |i 
 
 
 among tlie moiiii tains on tlii? occasion proved rcmark- 
 ahlv line, tiie sonnd of onr soiccs lieiini; rotnrned from 
 all (inart(3rs. So wo clieerfully paddled on, only stop- 
 l)in<»- (occasionally lo talk witli the bills, or to bail ont 
 the boat wlileh leaked like a sieve. In the conrse of 
 the ev(3iiing the moon rose from behind a clond, and 
 once looked ont njjon tlie lake. Bnt gdnth} Lnna 
 seemed far from |)leased with the prospect, and with- 
 drew her face. 
 
 It was past ten o"ch)ck when we approaelied the 
 laiidinji^ at the foot of the lake. At a little hnt on tlie 
 sh;)re (of a cove, a Harvard stndent and liis friend 
 were })assing the night, in order to be on hand for the 
 trout by daylight in the morning. AVe heard them 
 singing college songs at the top of their voices nncon- 
 scious of tlic fact that they had an audience. In the 
 afcernoon they saw us paddling down the lake, but, not 
 seeing us return, they concluded that we had left our 
 b:)at and gone over the mountains. Unable, in the 
 darkness, to find the landing, we hailed tliem, and in 
 reply were invited ashore to the shanty, " io take 
 Romethini]:," '' some liot cotree." l>ut our heavv yawl 
 was afoul of the sunken rocks, and we therefore de- 
 clined ihcir invitation, and retjuested a j)ilot instead. 
 Til a, minute or two their little white l)oat, scarcely 
 more than a skill', shot out from the dark cove like a 
 ppectre, and after c:)nsiderable trouble we were helped 
 in to the only piece of beach found here amonu" the 
 boulders, and got ashoi'e. Just then the v >ou burst 
 
 ^ , I 
 
 f 
 
The Lake Region. 
 
 117 
 
 out from amoni; tlio cl;)ii(ls, jloodiuix the patliwav 
 tliroiiii'li the wov)ds with ji dear sil\er liiiiit. We 
 a(?cor(liiio-lv ])a(le (Air ])cneractor.s ij.xxl iiiulit, and 
 wearily heii'au to olod the honiewai'd wav. At the 
 distance of a mile and a half from liar JIai'bor, we 
 met the ad\ance guard of an alarmed party coming 
 out to the lake to search for us. 
 
b 
 
 BEACH RAMBLES. 
 
 CHAP T E U I X . 
 
 Mauine Life — Si:a Wall — The Ovens— The Gregoires 
 
 — The Assyrian — Schooner Head — Spouting Horn 
 
 — Great Head — Otter Creek. 
 
 EACH I'ambles at Mount Desert are in- 
 vested with unusual interest, l)otli by the 
 splendid clitfs and caves, and by the im- 
 mense tidal ilow, whieh at the ebb lays 
 bare the rocks and flats, unveiling a tliousand secrets 
 of ihe sea. Here the naturalist will find that a moi'ii- 
 inii's wallv is worth somethinji:. If reallv in earnest, 
 he lias only to ste[) into a pair of long rubber boots, 
 walk down to the shore, and, staff" in hand, fcdlow the 
 receding waves. Am^ong the rock-pools and sludlows 
 he will thus be able to explore the crystal dwellings 
 of a large variety of marine creatures, and call upon, 
 ut their own homes, those marvels of ocean life that, 
 farther south on the New Kngland coast, might never 
 be seen at all. 
 
 It is exceedingly interesting to inspect the huge 
 star-rtsh and tbe monster anemone, whose ouls[)read 
 tenlacles wouM 1111 a Dei'bv hat ; but, not evervone is 
 willing to accept the invitation of the sea-side « .i"rt//Y, 
 
 I 
 
L 1 .IIM^IHJpillUWll 
 
 M 
 
 Beach Rambles, 
 
 119 
 
 ulio says, ill the hinguage of CMlibun, '^ T piitliee, let 
 mo bring thee where crabs grow." Most {;ers()iis 
 prefer to keep tolerably near the high water mark. 
 
 One of the most interesting localities for a beach 
 ramble on the southern part of tlie island is at the 
 Sea Wall, which is nothini]j less than the freoloi-ist's 
 shingle beach. It appears almost as if built by 
 human hands for a breakwater, a purpose that it 
 indeed serves; and yet a Cyclop would be uiie([uai to 
 the task accomplished by the wa-es. From the 
 Ocean House, opposite the steamboat wharf at South- 
 west Harbor, to the sea wall, is just a fair half-hour's 
 walk by a g()(jd road. On this n-ad, too, mav be had 
 some beautiful views of the entire mountain region 
 that can hardly be surpassed anywhere on the island. 
 Still, as we are supposed to be out for a hcaclt ramble, 
 it may prove as well to cross the fields to the shore. 
 Here the i)rospect is also iii.:e, the entire eastern group 
 being in sight, while northward we look up Somes' 
 Sound. The entire walk around to the Sea AVall is 
 full of interest. The way is ronirh and lib(M-aIIv 
 strewn with boulders, but the sccjiie is animated, and 
 the gossip with the fisher-folk on the shore is not 
 without profit. The afternoon when I walked tliat 
 way the weather was fine, the breeze mild, and only a 
 light swell falling with a gentle lush u[)on the shore. 
 1 he most of the boats had come in, and the men were 
 cleaning fish, or mendinjjf their nets. ]>lue-eved cliil- 
 dien were playing around the beach, seme still w *tii« 
 
 3 
 
n* 
 
 I20 
 
 reach Raniblcs. 
 
 1' )V tlic'ir i'jitliers to come a>liore. Tlie fi.slicrnuin's life is 
 ;i ii;i!<l one, and liis i'ainilv suffer iiiucli anxiety, not- 
 wiLlistandiiiii; llieir faniiliaritv with the f^ea. I noticed 
 ;i vounii- woman leadini; a ci)ui)le of cliihh-en and walk- 
 ing up and down the beacli. Finally she went ni;ci 
 sat on the bank, all the whih; looking eanmstlv sea- 
 Avard, straining- her eyes to discover some object. She 
 was waitin<jj for her husband. Finally a well-known 
 sail hove in siiiht around Cranberry Island, and came 
 gliding on towards the beach, assisted by a leeward 
 oar. When within hail, T heard her ask, "AVhatluck, 
 John?" The individual thus laconically Jiddressed, 
 and whose head was surmounted by an old balt<'red 
 "sou'wester," replied by going to the sheets and haul- 
 ing i)art way out of the water a huge halibut that he 
 was towinii; astern. The answer was satisfactory, at 
 least so said the wife's face ; and noAV, wntle reader, 
 wish them ever good luck, for, 
 
 " O well rany tlie boatic row, 
 And better may she !^i)(^c(l, 
 And niucklo luck attend (ho boat 
 'J'liat wins the bariiie's bread." 
 
 As I went on T th )u<iht of the lisher-women of Venice, 
 who ixo to the shore of the Adriatic and sini^ a melody 
 until they hear the voices of their returninii" husbands 
 
 4 O 
 
 cluiuntinii' a renlv. 
 
 Coming around the point u[)on the south shore, the 
 S<>a Wall appeared in sight, a broad and high ridge, 
 composed of loose boulders yarvinej iu si^o f.om u 
 
Beach Rambles. 
 
 121 
 
 loaf of broad to a barrel, ^\itll tlio ocean rolliiisT in on 
 one side and a low meadow on the olber. 'J'lie mate- 
 rial is thrown np in great confn^ion, and persons nn- 
 accnstomed to sneli sinlits arc; invarial)lv imnrcsscd bv 
 its maiinitnde. At this ])oint the rock niiderlvini; 
 the wliole island is expr)sed to tlie ravau'es of the sea, 
 wliieli breaks off large blocks, tossing tliem in the surf 
 mitil some great storm comes, wlicn the fragments are 
 driven np be^'ond the ordinaiy line of operation to lie 
 at rest. 
 
 Tliis place is somewhat celebrated for the fine 
 specimens of green feldspar nsnally obtainable. The 
 mineral occurs in masses of various sizes, disfibuted 
 generally among the rocks. Specimens are vahuMl as 
 souvenirs of the island. It is of a beauiifid \\\n\ though 
 possessing all the characteristics of the ordinary feld- 
 spar. ]>ut notwithstanding its fiiable nature; it has 
 been successfully worked in the manufacture of orna- 
 ments. This is an excellent place to collect sea-mosses. 
 (^pi)osite arc the Craid)en'y Islands, on one of whicli 
 is seen a church s[)ire. Dead Man's IJeach may also 
 be seen. It is so called f )r the reason that, lon<j ai»(), 
 a wlude ship's crew was drowned thei'e and buried in 
 one common grave. On the Sea AVall wrecks are not 
 infrecpient, and the bones of one ^•essel W(>re still 
 Iviuix where thev had been tossed ;d)o\e \\vA\ water 
 mark. There is little hope of a shi[) that gets ni[>ped 
 in this place, for she is tolerably suie of being ground 
 to pieces. 
 
Wft 
 
 122 
 
 Beach Rambles. 
 
 II 
 
 There ;ire otlicr s[)Ots on tliis part of the island well 
 woi'tliv of bein<»: .souii;lit out, such, for instance, as Bass 
 llai'l)!>r and tlie east side of Clark's Point. At the 
 latter place a ramble may be had along the sound. 
 Exploring in that vicinity one day, we found a hermit, 
 who has lived for about ten years on the point of land 
 opposite and close by Fernald's Point. He is of the 
 same faith as the Jesuit Fathers who founded their 
 Mission witliHi a few rods of his hut in 1G13, yet very 
 unlike them in works. Hearing by accident of his 
 existence, we resolved to pay him a visit, expecting to 
 find one of those venerable characters seen in old pic- 
 tures, with flowing robes, sandaled feet, and a snowy 
 beard sweeping down his breast, 
 
 
 " Like Barbaropsa, who pits iu his cave, 
 Taciturn, sombre, sedate and grave." 
 
 But instead, he proved a short, red-faced individual, 
 clad in a flannel shirt and patched, sordid trowsers, 
 with the remnant of a greasy felt hat on his head. 
 His house was a mere hut, about twenty feet square 
 and eight feet high, the flat roof having just enough 
 inclination to shed water. The only mode of ingress 
 was through a latticed hen-coop, the roof of which 
 was partially formed of an old boat turned bottom ui). 
 On invitation, we entered by this porch, and when the 
 l)ui)ils of our eyes had accommodated themselves to 
 the feeble light struggling in through a single pane 
 of glass, the situation became apparent. Of floor 
 
Beach Rambles. 
 
 \2\ 
 
 there was none, save (lie motlier earth. On one side 
 was a bunk for sleepinii', and in the corner a bin for 
 potatoes, witli an old brokoji stove in tho middle. All 
 was wretched and unclean to the last deixree, vet he 
 seemed to feel very comfortable, lie was al^() in li'ood 
 s[)irits, having just received live dollars from an artist 
 for sitting for his portrait. 
 
 A iilance into the bin discovered a sittiinj,- hen 
 spreading herself, as the hermit said, over a dozen 
 and a half of eggs, while in the corner another vener- 
 able fowl clucked i)roudly in the midst of fourteen 
 offspring that had just walked out of their shells. 
 When we begged for a little more light on the .-nbjcct, 
 he drew back a shingle slide underneath the pane of 
 glass and revealed a hole w hich he said was for the 
 accommodation of his cat. Looking into a corner the 
 eyes of Felis appeared Hashing in the twilight like a 
 couple of balls of ijjrcen lire. Gettiuii* out a<iain we 
 sat down on a bench, and listened to the hermit as he 
 told his manner of life, passed so democratically in his 
 duiiiv den with his chickens and cat. lie was weary 
 of the world, and liked to be with himself. His sum- 
 mer work secured the winter's simple fare. What 
 wood he wanted the sym[)athizing waves tossed n[) 
 at his door, and as for candle ho had none. The 
 long evenings were specially consecrate to meditation, 
 spiritual songs and prayer. All this was for the good 
 of his soul. 
 
 Amarinta hinted that cleanliness was next to jjidli" 
 
124 
 
 Beach Rambles. 
 
 .h 
 
 ness, wliicli sentinunt gave this (li.sci[)le of St. Francis 
 so little concern, that it was followed np with a point- 
 ed homily on diit. I'^or this likewise the h<»lv man 
 did not seem to care eithei", and when bringing some 
 water he still had the conrage to [.resent a cnj> which 
 Amarinta vainlv tui-ned aronnd once and aiiain in the 
 endeavor to find the clean side. 
 
 In striking contrast with his hnt and person was 
 his '"•garden," yclept a potato p-atch, withont weeds, 
 fanltlessly neat, inclosed by a brushwood fence, and 
 extencUnii: to the edi^e of the beach. From thence he 
 volunteered to bring Amarint.a a 'Miosegay," bnt 
 fnially presented only a sprig of mint, of which he 
 planted a little for " sickness." Anreole, who is a 
 judge, afterwards vowed it was for jule])s, aiid cited in 
 proof the hermit's red nose. AVe b-ade the hermit of 
 IMount Desert good day, persuaded that ^ve had at 
 least found a character. 
 
 sStill, the great beach raml)les are to be had on the 
 cast and south-east sides of the island. I;ar Harbor 
 must be the starting-point for all those localities. To 
 reach Bar Harbor by land from South-west Harbor, 
 we iirst di-ive to Somessille, and then, turning the 
 head of the Sound, continue on eight miles farther. 
 For the greater part of the distance the road is hilly, 
 and in some jilaces exceedingly steep. The views 
 gained on the road, hosvever, are fine. One sight 
 alone, the mountains seen from the Saddle of Sargent, 
 three miles from Bar Harbor, will repay the journey. 
 
BcacJi Ranihhs 
 
 125 
 
 The village of ]?ar Harbor, conroriiinir wliicli noih- 
 iiig ill particular lias yet l.con -aid, is hcauliriilly 
 situated within a short walk of the beach, and close lo 
 Newpoi't ami Tlreen ^Fountains — here onr ever-pres- 
 ent conij)anions. In fi-ont are the Porcupine Islands, 
 lyin<r in the month of Freucliman's Uay, and b.'yond 
 are the Gohlsborongh Hills. The [)rospect is not 
 altogetlier unlike that found in some places on tln^ 
 shore of Lake Winnepesauke, and we do not always 
 realize that we ai-e lookinir upon salt water, until we 
 catch a gfimpse of some ci-aft peculiar to the sea. 
 
 A beach extends along the front of the villa'--e on 
 both sides of the landing. Here is ihie bathinii' for 
 those who like the cool temperature of the water, 
 while the geologist will be delighted by the glacial 
 marks deeply cut on the snrfa<*e of the rocks. 
 
 Bar Island is the nearest of the rorcu[)ine group, 
 and twice in every twent\ -four hours the narrow strip 
 of sand connecting it with the main is uncovered, as 
 if for the convenience of visitors, who can thus, like 
 the Israelites, walk dry-shod through the sea. 
 
 This place will be visited hrst by those who are 
 resolutely bent on seeing the whole island; afterwards 
 the ''Ovens" claim attention. 
 
 The Ovens are situated about six or seven miles 
 northward, and it would not be profitable to w the 
 whole way following the line of the beach, on account 
 of the ditficultics that are met, and the projecting 
 points of land that double the distance. Going by the 
 
126 
 
 Beach Rambles, 
 
 if 
 
 '% 
 
 bcacli it ^vill ))C best to make ITuU's Cove — two miles 
 — tlic (irst jioiiit, taking Duck Brook Cove on the way. 
 At liigli water a jiart of the way must be travelled 
 alon^ ilie roc.-ks. In some i)laces they are quite liigh 
 and tViniicd with trees. 
 
 Hull's Cove is a very pretty place, shaped like a 
 liorsc-Nlioe, and has a sandy beach. Theie are only a 
 few houses. It was named after a brother of the 
 General Hull who was not shot for his cowardice at 
 Detroit, as the court decreed. Here dwelt Madame 
 Marie Theresc do Gregoire, a descendant of De la 
 Motte Condillac.^ 
 
 It appears that in the year 1G88 the king of France 
 gave to Condilkxc a large tract of land on the main, 
 together with the Island of Mount Desert, of which 
 ?.e took nominal possession, and executed several 
 papers, in which he styled himself " Lord of Donaquee 
 
 (1) — In the pctilion of Madame Grc^oirc, her grandfather's name 
 is spelled ('ondiihic. Elsewhere he appears as " Autoiue do la Motho 
 Cadilhie, Lord of IJonaguat and IMouiit desert in Elaine." lie was a 
 native of Ciascony. In the ParisH Document (N. York Col. Doc, Vol. 
 ix. p. o9i,) he is spoken of, under date of 1G94, as " Sieur Dehunotte- 
 Cadiilac, Cnjitain of a detaclimont of Marines, a man of very distin- 
 guished merit." In lt304— 7, he commanded at Michilimakinac. In 
 1701 he established Fort ronchurtrain, Detroit, remaining with his 
 wife until UOG. The next year ho returned to Quebec. In 1712 ho 
 was appointed Governor of Louisiana. In company with do Crozet, 
 he controlled the trade and opened a silver mine. He returned to 
 France, Slarch 9, 1717; and it is said by du I'ratz (Ilistoh-e (h la 
 Louisiana, Vol. i. p. 23,) that he died within two years afterwards. 
 Ho is identilied with the early history of live or six States. The Paris 
 Documents, (X. York Col. Doc, Vol. ix. p. 44G) say that ho was well 
 acquainted with the New England coast; but his connectiou with 
 Mount Desert was nominal. 
 
Beach Rambles. 
 
 i2y 
 
 and iVrount Desert." Donaquee was tl.o Indian name 
 of Lnion Kiver, uliieli empties into IJlue Ilill JJav. 
 And in November of 178(J, JMadame r^Faiie 'JMiere^e 
 de Gregoire, in company with lu>r husband, Jlar- 
 thelcmy de Gregoire, landed in this country fruni 
 iM-ance, and appeared before the General Court at 
 Boston, petitioning for the confirmation of her ri<dit 
 as the grand<laughter of Condilhic. Jm this coin-sj 
 she was encouraged by Thomas JeflTerson, La V,xx,^iu^ 
 and others. The court heard and granted her plea,' 
 July G, 1787, and afterwards, by a special act, natu- 
 ralized ]\radame and her husband, together with their 
 children, Pierre, iVicholas and Marie. 
 
 In 1702 the General Court had granted the island 
 to Governor Bernard, and the king had sanctioned 
 the act, but his course during the revolution was ob- 
 noxious, and the island was forfeited. June 2r>, 178,3, 
 the court had also granted one-half of the island to' 
 Sir John Bernard, who had been friendly to tlie patri- 
 ots ; and the following December he agreed to pay 
 two thousand five hundred pounds for the other half, 
 but the contract was ultimately relinquished, and thus' 
 the Gregoires, as stated, obtained their rights. The 
 vote, however, was intended to be a compliment to 
 France, " to cultivate a mutual confidence and union 
 between the subjects of His Most Christian Majesty 
 and the citizens of this State.^ ' * 
 
 (l)-Seo Resolves of Mass.. Vol. v. pp. 82. 131, 1789; Laws of Masa., 
 vol. 1. p. 652, 1<8« ; Papers Aracr. Statistical Society, Vol. i. p. 7G. 
 
128 
 
 Beach Rambles. 
 
 A I 
 
 I \ 
 
 ]\r;i(l!iine Grci^oii'o lliiis came into posfjcssion of 
 about sixlv tlioiisaiid acres, c'inl>raciin; i)aiis of tlie 
 iiiiiin lainl, and tli(3 entire island, excei)t Nvliere already 
 oce!ii)ied by adnal settlers. 
 
 On llicir adNcnt at iNlonnt Desert tliev beuan to sell 
 oil' llie land at a ddllar an aci'e, but tlicy do not appear, 
 on the whole, to liav(! been in very aillnent eireinn- 
 stanees. \\\ ohl man at work in a Held told me that 
 he knew them well, and remembei'ed the eirenmstan- 
 ces attendini;" their deadi. ]\Ionsienr died (ii'st, after 
 which Madame lived three veai's in the family of the 
 Hulls, who oe(aii)i('d a house; that stood on the site of 
 the present briek omi near the shore. After her death 
 a belt full of ixold was foun<l on her body. About 
 three-f )ui'tlis of a mile back from the l)eaeh, the cellar 
 of the CJregoiro house is pointed out. Here, with 
 their sea-side neigh])ors they lived a secluded life, 
 dwelling upon the great memories of regal France. 
 The old nnin, above refei'red to, said that thev were 
 occasionally visited by a French Friar ; and that when 
 IMonsieur left home he usually went to lay in an equal 
 stock of I'um and molasses. Not, liowevcr, that he 
 loved the siuirkliuix vintaires of Lano;uedoc less, but 
 Santa Cruz more. And too many of our sea-side 
 friends are still overmatched bv the same infirmitv. 
 At least the smugglers say so. At the cove, the anti- 
 quarian mav irive half an hour to diijo:in<i amonix the 
 Indian shell heaps, where perhaps lie may find a stone 
 hatchet. 
 
Beach Rambles, i^q 
 
 Here it is best to leave the iM'acl, aii.l iullnu il.o 
 road until tlir iMn-yi..;^ ^n.u.al is ,,a.s(Ml, a.i.I ih.-n 
 strike across the li. i.ls (,f l',>i,;t L,vi to Saulshury 
 Cue. Ji, going lliis uay it uill ,,rove interesting to 
 visu the graves of the (Irogoires, foun.l jnst (n.tlido 
 ot the burying.gronnd, at the south-(>ast eornor. Wo 
 may rest assuml that the JJonian faith (,f the (u-e- 
 goires ha<l nothing to do with this exeln^ion. The 
 ground, were laid out long after the (;rogoires died, 
 and, there being no monument, the graves were 
 probably overlooked when the fence was put up. The 
 I'ltere.t that has been felt of htt.. vears in evervthin<r 
 i-elatmg to Mount Desert has brought manv visitors 
 to the spot, now marked only by rude stones, but 
 whieh, It we regard the interests of history ah.ne 
 should at least be covered by a suitable mon.mient. 
 
 'llie walk across Point Levi in a pleasant day is 
 perfectly lovely. The woods an.l the fields are of the 
 finest, while with what shall we comj-are the blue 
 waters of Frenchman's liay ? The dav we wcmt to 
 the Ovens the haymakers were at work, and the new- 
 mown grass vied with the wild rose in delicious p(>r- 
 fume, while the little folk we had along with us vied 
 with one another in blackening .heir iiKmths with 
 the ripe berries, afterwards patt(3ring down to the 
 cove, bearing long branches loaded with the fruit, like 
 victorious palms. 
 
 Here we found our boatmen, who had come around 
 
■'- 
 
 I^^O 
 
 BcacJi Rambles. 
 
 the point to meet us and carry us on by water, about 
 two miles farther to tlie Ovens. 
 
 In going thither, alwa} s i)lan so as to reach the 
 ground two hours after the ebb. The Ovens arc 
 nothing less than some fine caves in the cliffs which, 
 being formed of a sort of ])or[)hyritic rock, is easily 
 disintegrated by the frost and waves. The result is 
 quite imposing. AVhen the tide is part way down, a 
 boat can be rowed under the largest. At low water 
 a clean, beautiful pebbly beach is stretched along in 
 front. The roofs and sides of the Ovens, when dri[)- 
 ping with brine, present a variety of rich colors, com- 
 bining with the rare lustre of the feldspar. The ac- 
 tion of the weather is also slowly decomposing the 
 surface of the rock all around on the top of the Ovens. 
 A break in the clitfs affords a shelter for boats, and at 
 the same time a place easy of ascent. Here come 
 j^ic-nic parties innumerable. 
 
 South of the Ovens the cliffs are high and perpen- 
 dicular. In a projecting spur is a long passage, 
 throngh which it is deemed proper to pass. Some 
 call it Via Mida^ yet most persons are content to 
 know it as The Hole in the Rock. Half-way up the 
 cliff the harebells bloom in security, and here and 
 there a miniature })ine grows green in some rift. 
 
 A pleasant day here is always short, and the ro.v 
 back enables one to gain fresh views of the whole re- 
 gion that has been travelled on foot. 
 
 The next ramble should be southward to Cromwell's 
 
Beach Rambles. 
 
 131 
 
 Cove and the Assyrian's Head. Tlie distance hv 
 the si lore is perliaps a long mile, thouiih by the 
 road less. Starting from the steamboat landing, at 
 low tide the whole distance can be done below hiiih- 
 water mark. Those interested in collecting pebbles 
 will lind some fjood ones, thoni>h there is nothin<j: rare. 
 Oj^posice Mr. Hardy's handsome cottage is an isolated 
 rock. Every one mnst climb this, because, forsooth, 
 it is Pnlpit Kock. In some greatrcathedral, it would 
 serve a good turn for the preacher. All along in this 
 vicinity the schisty rocks are splitting up, showing 
 signs of stratillcation, while huge boulders, brought 
 hither ])y the Pre-Adamite drift, are seen struggling 
 with the noisy surf. This ramble affords a line view 
 of the cliffs in one of the Porcupine Islands known 
 as AVheeler's. The reason for the name now also 
 ai)pears, which is found in tln'ir resemblance to the 
 back of the animal bearing that name. The likeness 
 is not so apparent as formerly, for the reason that 
 they have lost so many of their dea<l trees, which 
 once stood as thick the quills of the " fretful i)or- 
 cupine." 
 
 At Cromwell's Cove there aie fine studies in rock, 
 but here on the shore further progress is impossible, 
 the beach running down under the sea, which rolls 
 in against a [)erj)endicular wall. (Jetting at the right 
 angle, a rock-man will readily b(^ discovered, sitting on 
 II i)edestal half-way up the clilK 'i'he peculiar cast of 
 the features led to the name of ''The Assyrian." Ho 
 
132 
 
 Beach Rambles. 
 
 only Deeds ii little more strength in his nose to apj)ear 
 a model man. 
 
 Near the Assyrian is a line rift, forming a sort of 
 cave, into which the sea s<|ueezes its^'lf with no little 
 force and noise. An asceiidinui; i)ath runs aloni^ the 
 edije of the clifls anionic the trees, affordinif an out- 
 look u[)()n tlui hoiling waters below. 
 
 This raml)l(; will consume a whole mornini^, and, in 
 returniuLj: hv the road, a I urn throuiih the lields lU'ar 
 the Connoi' farm-house will ail'ord a glimpse of the 
 '• Foot[)rint" in a rock. 1 \\v>l heard oi this througli 
 the medium of a magazine called T/ic Maine Li'(//if, 
 wdiich lived throuiih one number and then went out 
 in darkness. The editor, in settini!' forth the attrac- 
 tions of ]Mount Desert, speaks of impressions of 
 human fe(>t foiuid in the rocks here and in the neigh- 
 boring isles. ^\n iiKpiiry among the iidiabitants 
 bronu'Lt this to liirht. Jt has lonix been known as 
 the Indian's Foot. It is about fourteen inches long 
 and two dee[), presenting what app(.'ars to be the im- 
 press of a \ery tolerable foot. Jt is, no do(d)t, 
 nothin<r more than a very curious fracture in a meta- 
 morphic rock. Persons passing that way will of 
 course go and see it. 'Jdie children of the ilk will be 
 glad to v'dvn a dim(^ in pointing out the exact spot. 
 
 In crt)ssing the lields from the Indian's Foot to the 
 roa<l, that somewhat rare llower, the purple orchis, 
 may be found on a i)iece of lowland. It is of pecu- 
 liar interest, the reader will remember, from the lad 
 
BcacJi Rauiblcs 
 
 
 thiit Darwin Itriiii's it in to liclp liis tlicorv of ()rii:iiKil 
 Sf'lection. bv ))ro\iiiir tlic friK'tilicatiou of tlio oroliis 
 by insects. 
 
 Noxt in onl(M' is ScOkxiiht ITnub tln'co inilos beyond 
 tlie Assyrian. This ninst be reacluMl bv llie road, as 
 between these two points thci'e is an nnln'oken irranite 
 w;ill I'l i<x up straiirhr, from the soa. The walk to 
 Schooner Head, like all these walks, abonnds with 
 int<'rest. It runs alon<^ tlu^ eastern side of Newjtort 
 ^lonntain, whose hoary elill!-> look down in such sol- 
 emn ""randenr. and comes out ihrouiih a fine i^rove of 
 birches to the head of a c;)ve. Schooner Head is a 
 noble clilf cl()s(j by the entrance of this cove. It is 
 probablv not so hi<di as the next headland northward, 
 l»ut all ihinix^ cond)ine to make it more attractive;. It 
 takes its n:ime from the fact that on its sea-face there; 
 is a mass of white rock which, when \i(!wed at the 
 j)ro[ter distance, pi'esents the a])i;carance of a small 
 .M^hoojier. Indeed, there is a tradition that in tlu; war 
 of 1(S I 2 a l>riti>h fi'ii^ate sailini: bv, ran in and lired 
 n')o:i it, the captain thinkiuix it was an American vessel. 
 This is not at all unlikely, tor one day when approach- 
 iii"' the coast in a steamer, mv attention was directed 
 to that "little vessel sailini; so close to the clill's." 
 'i'his was at least a \ery ij-ood \ indication of the name. 
 
 Here is t(» be f )un<l what is known as (he Spout in<^ 
 Horn. It is [I l)r(!a<l chasm in the clilV opening' part 
 way down to the water on the east, with a low arch- 
 way on the south side at the bottom cennnunicaling 
 
r n^ 
 
 
 134 
 
 BcacJi Rambles, 
 
 If I 
 
 with the sea. At low water there is a slippery and 
 (laiiirernus descent to the arch, thronj^h wliich it is 
 possible to pass, and then climb fifty or sixty feet, 
 escaping from this horrible place at the top. When 
 the tide is rising, the waves drive in throngh the arch, 
 with great fury ; and in severe storms the force is 
 such as to send up the water above the mouth, s[)Out- 
 ins like an Icelandic irevser. 
 
 This is a place where in climbing every one should 
 move with the greatest caution ; for woe to the hapless 
 wight who slips wh'?n crawling through the dark and 
 slimy arch. The boiling surf will suck him down into 
 depths from whence he would never rise. The climb 
 has its grim attractions, and young ladies even some- 
 times go through the Horn ; yet most persons con- 
 clude that it is better to keep in a safe seat and watch 
 the billowy sea. 
 
 A fine day is generally given to these rambles, but 
 stormy weather is the best. At such times there is a 
 wierd attraction about the sea-side. Button up your 
 I'ubber coat, therefore, to the chin, tie on a tarpaulin, 
 and a'o forth with your staff, breastins; the storm. 
 The investment will be found to pay. The lush of 
 gently-falling waves is fine, but what is this compared 
 with the sea in a storm, telling its angry thought to 
 tliese mighty cliifs, and pouring all its wrath against 
 their granite sides ? The memory of sucii a day is 
 enduring. Many an odd character is also met in these 
 driving storms. AVhichever way the gale may como 
 
Beach Rambles. 
 
 135 
 
 it always sends such to tlie shore. Besides, there is 
 ever a chance of a wreck, or at least of a liair-bi-eadth 
 escape. IIow fine is the spectacle of a shii) strugirling 
 on a lee shore, and how terrible wlien it becomes 
 a:)parent that Death is on board. Sometimes one may 
 lend a helping hand, while often he finds himself in 
 need of aid. 
 
 In the cove the fishermen have their boat-houses, 
 and from thence that go forth to set their nets and 
 trawls. At one of their huts was a shark's l)ack-bone 
 fourteen feet long, drying in the sun. Passing around 
 this place, along southward of the cove, we come 
 to the Mermaid's Cave, an enormous den formed by 
 projecting ledges. Two or three hundred persons 
 could here find room. At high water the waves go 
 thundering in to its farthest recess. It is tlie truest 
 cave on the island, and besides it contains the linest 
 aquarium mortal ever beheld. Here is a wealth of 
 anemones that Cnvsus and Dives could not buy. 
 They appear in all the richest hues in their rock-pool 
 parlors, floored with a hard, limy substance, in color 
 a delicate pink. Transferred to "Ncw York, it would 
 prove of fabulous value. But this an institution that 
 cannot flourish in the full light of day. It prospers 
 best in the shady '^ caves and womby vaultages." 
 Near the edge of the cave, wnere the sunlight strikes, 
 the pools were without an iidiabitant; vet where the 
 light was properly adai)ted, the colony was numerous. 
 Hero these exquisite creatures, resem],]ing some rare 
 
13^ 
 
 Beach Rambles. 
 
 flower, live and die without moving from the spot 
 to which tliey are attached. They do not seem to 
 know any fear, and are as wilHnn- to be fed as a 
 chicken, though when you put your finger in their 
 cup-like moutlis, they will fasten upon it with their 
 tentacles. Their homes are exquisitely fitted up with 
 a variety of dclicately-fronded moss of all colors, with 
 sea lettuce and p>ale green sponge. 
 
 It would prove unfortunate, however, to be caught 
 here by the tide ; and at the iiood, as the waves come 
 rolling towards the entrance, they often give a start, 
 those who likened the cave to the home of Polyphe- 
 mus now thinking that they 
 
 " Sec C3CI0PS stalk from rock to rock, 
 And tromblo at tlioir footsteps' shock." 
 
 Accordingly they leave its si)lendid pools and get out 
 as fast as possible. 
 
 Our next ramble is to Great Head, the finest 
 headland on the island, and the highest, it has been 
 said, between Cape Cod and New Brunswick. It lies 
 a sliort mile beyond Schooner Head, and is reached 
 by the same road. Approaching the Head, we have a 
 iine view of Newport's southern end descending to 
 j)hinge into the sea. High up on the ledges are the 
 nibbling sheep, foraging among the closely-cropped 
 grass. Reaching the farm-house, most persons here 
 leave their carriages, though the road extends some 
 distance farther into the woods. The way is perfectly 
 
Beach Rambles. 
 
 ^Z7 
 
 plain. Tlie left-hand track leads by a gradual ascent 
 dii-ectly to the Head. The woods are here and there 
 largely sprinkled with line old birches. Arrivino- at 
 the highest point, a view is had far and wide of^thc 
 grand old ocean, while landward rise llie mountains. 
 Ihis whole i)eninsula recently became the property 
 ofa PhihKhdphia family that has a ta ,te for landed 
 ti-ifles. Among their ehects, it is said, is an islet in 
 Lake Superior, and a snow-peak in the Swiss Alps. 
 But Great Head need not feel ashamed of itself in 
 any com|)anv. 
 
 In one place there is a rough and steep descent 
 nearly to the water, while in another a sheer wall 
 leans forward, threateningly, over the sea. \\y de- 
 scending the former a fmc view of the face of the cliff 
 is had ; while a little way west, just below the gulch 
 sprinkled with white rocks, is a cyclopcan den called 
 Stag Cave, from the resemblance to a stng which the 
 imagination may easily conjure up wlil-n looking 
 steadily upon some intrusions of milky quartz in the 
 side of the wall. 
 
 Visitors are fond of coming to Great Head again 
 and again to spend the whole day in sauntering IVom 
 point to point, catching each new expression tf the 
 clitKs; or, book in hand, bestowing themselves under 
 some convenient rock, to keep one eye on the stereo- 
 tyi^ed page and the other 6\\ the changeful deep. 
 
 Another fnie ramble is to Otter Creek Cliirs on the 
 ocean side of the tongue of land which makes the 
 
If 
 
 i 
 
 P. 
 
 
 If 
 
 1 
 
 1^.8 
 
 Beach Rambles. 
 
 creek. The otter formerly abounded there, and hence 
 the name. A separate journey can be made to th's 
 pkice by the way of P^cho Notch, or else when at 
 Great Head it may be reached by crossing the sandy 
 beach on the west side. The siteciaity at Otter Creek 
 is the cliffs, which are high, rugged and line. Theie 
 is moreover a cave called Thunder Cave. Following 
 these cliffs down to the end, the creek may be crossed 
 in a boat, and then come fresh beach rambles to 
 North-east Harbor and the mouth of Somes' Sound, 
 out of which, Agassiz says, when JMount Desert was 
 " a Ti-.iniature Spitzbergen," the " colossal icebergs '* 
 floated of!' into the Atlantic, " as they do now-a-days 
 from Magdelena Bay." 
 
 Having reached this point in beach rambling it will 
 perhaps hardly be profitable to return by the same 
 route. It will be better to take the North-east Har- 
 bor road to Somesville, and thence, by the Mount 
 Desert road return home. 
 
FRENCHMAN'S BAY. 
 
 CHAP T E R X . 
 
 D'AuuRi — The Pillars of IIkrcules — Boating — The 
 IsLAXDS — Siiell-IIeaps — Antiquities — Moose. 
 
 RENCHMAN'S Bay might perliaps be 
 easily disposed of, by saying that here 
 there is no Frenchman's Bay; and yet this 
 woukl hardly prove a just proceeding. 
 Besides, a multitude of witnesses who have loitered on 
 its margin and tossed on its waves would rise up and 
 declare me an imposter ; yet, soft and fair, gentle 
 Mount Deserter, for there is nevertheless somewhat to 
 say. 
 
 The common story runs, as Williamson reports it 
 in his History of Maine, that the name of French- 
 man's Bay was given to these waters, for the reason 
 that a French ecclesiastic, Nicholas d'Aubri, was lost 
 here on an island. He refers to Sullivan, who tells 
 the story with the important difference that he locates 
 the scene on ihe west side of the Bay of Fundy, 
 which Champlain says was named Frenchman's Bay 
 by De Monts, though not on account of d'Aubri's 
 adventure. This happened on Long Island, on the 
 
f I 
 
 1 v 
 
 I 
 
 
 140 
 
 FrcucJimaiis Bay. 
 
 east side of the Bay of Fiiiidy. At v} somewliat early 
 (late the original name appears to have been lost sight 
 of. It was afterwards revived, and applied to the 
 wrong place, the story of d'Auhri being imported to 
 
 (1) — Willinmson, in his confused statement, refers for an autliority 
 to .Sullivan, and Sullivan refers to Abbe IJaynal and C'arlier, neiflier 
 of whom say anytliing about it. 'J'he Abbe (Vol. V. p. 844, Eng. Kd. 
 1798) simply mentions the fact that tliepresent 15av ot Tundy Mas iirst 
 called Frenchman's Hay. In trulli there is no authority for the notion 
 that the bay received its name fiom the adventure ol d'Aubri. C'ham- 
 p'ain in ...j Voyages (I'aris Kd. 1G13, p]). 13, 19) distinctly says that 
 the bay \vas named by De Monts. lie briefly mentions the affair of 
 d'Aubri, but his language, as in the case of Lescarbot, sliows that the 
 bay was known as "/a (jvamle baye I'lancoise," before tlic adven- 
 ture took place. The account of d'Aubri lias been so poorly stated, 
 that it may be well here to give the version of Lescarbot, in the lan- 
 guage of Erondclle, whoee translation is now so rare: 
 
 " Ilauing soiornod there some 12 or 18 dales, a strange accident 
 hapned, such as I will tell you. ''"here was a certain [Koman] Church- 
 man of a good familic in I'aris, that had a desire to perfoimc tho 
 \o\t\gc whh Monaieiw IJe Moiits, ni\(\ {hat against the liking of his 
 friends, who sent expressly to Ilonjlcur to diuert hiir .herof, and to 
 bring him backc to Paris. The Ships lying at anker in the said I?ayo 
 of ,Sai?j^ ilAa7'2e, ho put himself in company with some that went to 
 sjjort themselues in the woods. It came to i)asse that hauing staled to 
 drinke at abrookc, hcc lorgat there his sword and followed on his 
 way with his companie: which when lice peiceiued heo returned 
 backc to sceke it: but hauing found it, forgetful from what part ho 
 came, and not considering whether he should go East or West, or oth- 
 erwise (for there was no path) be took his way quite contrario, turn- 
 ii»g his backc from his companie, and so long traueHed that l:e found 
 himselfe at tho seashoare, where no ships were to bo seen (for they 
 were at the other side of a nooke of land farre reaching into the sea), 
 he imagined ho was forsaken, and began to bewailo his fortune vpon 
 a rockc. Tho night being come, cuery one being I'ctired, he is found 
 uauting: hcc was asked for of those who had beenc in tho woods, 
 they report in what maner ho departed from them, and that since 
 they had no ncwes of him. Whereupon a rrotcstant was charged to 
 
FrencJunan s Bay. 
 
 141 
 
 Mount Desert at the same time. We might therefore 
 be excused for saying that here there is, properly, no 
 such thing as Frenchman's 15ay. " Mount l)e,-ert 
 Bay" would perhaps be a more lltting name. The 
 statement of Sullivan that "there were, anciently. 
 
 tho 
 Ilia 
 d to 
 >nyo 
 lit to 
 ed to 
 Ills 
 rued 
 t ho 
 oth- 
 urn- 
 ouud 
 they 
 ?ea). 
 vpon 
 ound 
 ods, 
 inco 
 d to 
 
 
 ?4 
 
 i 
 
 f.-l 
 
 '4 
 i 
 
 P 
 ^ 
 
 ^ 
 
 liauo killed him, because they quanelled sonic times for matters of 
 Keligion. Finally, they sounded a trumpet Ihrou the forest, they 
 shot off the Canon diners times, but in vaine: for the roaring of tlio 
 Sea, stronger than all that, did expell backo the soui;d ot the said 
 Canons and trumpets. Two, three and foure dales jiasse, he aj)p('ar- 
 eth not. In the nieanc while the time hastens to depart, .'o liauirg 
 taried so long that he was then held for dead, they weighed aukeis to 
 go further, and to see the depth of a bay that hath some 40 leagues 
 lengt.i, and 14 (yea IS) of bredth, which was named La liaije Fran- 
 coise, or the French IJaye." 
 
 Thus tho poor wreteii was abandoned to his fate, and finally the 
 sliips went to St. Croix and jjicpared to s])end the winter. l>ut in 
 tho meanwhile Chaniplain was " sent baeke to the Uay of t^aint 3Iary 
 with a ^liiie-linder that had been carried thither ibr to get some 
 mines of siluer and Iron." And it is related that as they crossed th^ 
 " French IJaie, they entred into the said Baie of .Saint Marie, by a nar- 
 row strait or passage, which is between the land of I'oit Iloyal and 
 an Island called the Long Isle : wheie after some abode the said Aiibri 
 [tho lost man] pcrceavcd them and began with a feeble voice to call 
 as loud as he could; and for to help his voice ho advised himself to 
 doe as Ariadne did herctol'orc to lltcseus, 
 
 CnndiiJaqxie imposui longm velamina Viryoc, 
 Scilicet ohlitos admonitur a mei. 
 
 For he put his handkcicher, and his hat on a staues end, which made 
 liim better to be knowen. For as one of them heard the voice, and 
 asked the rest of the companie, if it might be tlie said Monsieur Aithri 
 they mocked & laughed at it. Bvt after they had spied ti;e mouing 
 of the handkercher and of tlio hat, then they began to think that it 
 might be bee. And coming neere, they knew perfectly it was hini- 
 eelfe, and tooke hiin in tlieir IJarke with great joy and contentment 
 the sixteenth day after ho had lost himKell." 
 
142 
 
 Frenchman s Bay, 
 
 I 
 
 many French settlements on tliat part of the hay, 
 wliich is opposite to the hanks of Mount Desert, as 
 well as on the island itself," is a gratuitous asser- 
 tion, which has no foundation in fact. The only 
 ancient settlement of which we have any knowledge, 
 was that of St. Savior, in IGlo. 
 
 Still, what's in a name? If we were to send the 
 name, " Frenchman's Bay," to the Bay of Fundy, 
 where it belongs, these waters would not appear 
 brighter nor the sky more blue. Therefore, while 
 repudiating Williamson's stale story of d'Aubri, we 
 we will take the present cognomen, cum grano salts, 
 which is to say, with a little salt sprinkled on it. 
 
 Having now, as Mr. Oldstyle said, discharged "a 
 duty to history," we may look about us and observe 
 the characteristics of this body of water, which, in 
 some respects, is finer than the waters around the out- 
 side of South-west Harbor. 
 
 Frenchman's Bay is about ten or twelve miles long 
 and seven or eight wide. At its mouth is Schoodic 
 Point, which rises as it retreats from the water, ter- 
 minating in that barren peak known as Schoodic 
 Mountain. According to the estimate of the Coast 
 Survey it is four hundred and thirty-seven feet high. 
 Its great compeer, Newport, stands opposite at the 
 west side. Together they form the Pillars of Hercu- 
 les at Mount Desert. Inside of Schoodic Point is 
 Ironbound Island, while some distance to the north 
 are the Goldsborough Mountains. Beyond is the 
 
Frenchman s Bay, 
 
 143 
 
 town of Sullivan, and at the head of the bay is Tren- 
 ton. Another reach of the bay extends in a nortlierly 
 direction to receive the Skillings Kiver, where at low 
 tide there is a considerable fall. At high water a 
 large vessel may safely descend, though not long 
 since a schooner broke loose from above at about half- 
 tide, and in shooting tho fall rolled over and snapped 
 off her masts. Towards the entrance of the bay, 
 opposite Bar Harbor, lie the Porcu[)ine Islands. Be- 
 sides these there are no islands worth mentioning, 
 except several that lie close to the eastern shore. 
 Between Newport and Ironbound is the best lishing, 
 while the sailing and boating are excellent every- 
 where. 
 
 Yachts of various sizes are always in readiness for 
 a voyage, and every day they may be seen scudding 
 to and fro. We frequently went in the Dolphin, a 
 fine large slooo, with snow^y sails, whose careful skip- 
 per had ploughed tjie deejD for thirty years, and knew 
 every inch of ground from Cape Cod to West Quoddy. 
 With a stiff breeze it was a pleasure to see the Dol- 
 phin walk the water, bound, say, for the Ovens. In 
 these little voyages we learned as much about the 
 island as the bay, and at every hundred yards the 
 former put on some new expression. A mile out from 
 Bar Harbor it appeared in brave greenery, all the 
 hills verdant to their summits, while up the bay to- 
 wards the north, this character would gradually be- 
 come lost, and finally in swinging around the shore 
 

 144 
 
 FrcncJivians Bay. 
 
 the mountains themselves wonld disappear. It is, 
 liowever, the more beautiful to \)\\\\\i them back 
 again. At one point, near the Ovens, all that can he 
 seen is the blue peak of Xewpoi't, but gradually the 
 wlioh} height comes forth, having a perfect pyramidal 
 form. Then Green Mountain rises, and iinallv the 
 distant ridi^c of Sargent comes in view ; and wlien we 
 sail in between liar Island and AVheeler's Porcupine, 
 Newport is no longer a blue filmy cloud, but appeal's 
 bef(jre us in all its wild b^autv. 
 
 There ui'e many localities of especial interest around 
 the bay. Each of the islands has some peculiar 
 attraction. On Bar Island, already mentioned, may 
 be had line rand)les and views of the mountains. 
 The anti(piarian <'an here hnd Indian shell-heajis that 
 will r(^pay the labor of investigation. Frc.m this 
 ])lace I broui»ht awav some airow-heads dui;- out of 
 the refuse of these aboriiiinal kitchens; also some 
 teeth of the black bear, linelv enamelled, tomMher 
 with part of the jaw. On the next island is an inter- 
 esting iishing station, occnpie(l in U)e snnnner by veiy 
 intelligent and respectable jn'ople iVom Trenton. On 
 the pretty little island adjoining, called tin* Thumb- 
 Caj), is another station. Teyond is the Burnt I*orcu- 
 pine, while the last in the chain is the Great Porcu- 
 pine. On this island, \wav the south si<le, there has 
 been some search for Kidd's treasure in years jiast. 
 The most delightful, liowever, to visit is Wheeler's. 
 It is of great height, and aflbrds the linest view of 
 
 V I 
 
Frcac/iJfian's Bay. 
 
 145 
 
 Newport that is to 1)G had fi-om tlio bay. and whicli is 
 a favorite view witli artists. Tlio clifVs in tliis island 
 have often been sketched, and in tlie liandsof a skilful 
 jiainter ai'c capable of great effect. Take a snnny 
 dav for a stroll lierc. and vo-a uill fix a ])ictnre in the 
 memory that will endure. 
 
 Three or four years since a bear from tlic mainland 
 swam over to this island, liavinix a mind to ti-y a little 
 mutton. As it turned out, he did the sheep no harm ; 
 for the people discovered what was going on and 
 translated ]>ruin into steaks. At present there are no 
 bears on ^Mount Desert, ihouizh a man at l^ar Harbor 
 assured me positively that one lately followed him on 
 the road near Duck Ih'ook. 
 
 In order to see the clilfs to the best ad\antage, it 
 will be necessary to row under them in a small boat. 
 This is perfectly safe, even with a heavy swell run- 
 nine:, if you have command of the oars. And when 
 out it vill be well to visit the other island clitl's, if 
 possible, as they possess features worth studying. 
 
 The clilfs on the sea-side of Iron-bound retpiire a 
 special voynge, and sails will be better than oars. 
 Tlie clitrs here, as dill's, are su])erior to those on the 
 shores of ]Mount Desert, though inaccessible to rnm- 
 biers. On the same trip, if the wind is fair, many 
 persons run across to Schooner Head and go home by 
 the -way of the shore cliffs, the interest of which never 
 wearies. Approaching Cromwell's Cove, running 
 close in, the Assyrian may be distinctly seen, thou<'h 
 
ill i 
 
 if 
 
 146 
 
 Frenchman s Bay, 
 
 1^ : : ! 
 
 ! I 
 
 arriving in front lie mysteriously vanishes, and appears 
 to sink into the wall. 
 
 One of the pleasant trips is that to Goklshorough, 
 by which we gain a somewhat rear a iew of its com- 
 manding hills. Here is a pretty harbo-' which is most 
 easily entered at high water. The village has a pleas- 
 ant aspect, but looks down sleepily from the hill-side. 
 The entrance of the Dolphin ^^ith flying colors, 
 brought only a single individual down to quay, besides 
 a couple of fishermen — one a C hicf Justice — who had 
 been spending a day looking after the trout. Their 
 basket was so well filled with fine fish that one hardly 
 need to fear recommending the waters of this vicinage 
 to those who may be piscatorially inclined. At Golds- 
 borough, however, the chief interest gathers around 
 the shell-heaps, the relics of multitudinous dinners 
 eaten during the old times by the Indians who dwelt 
 around the harbor. These shell-heaps are often sev- 
 eral feet deep, and sometimes cover acres of ground. 
 The)^ arc mixed more or less with earth and ashes, 
 and contain antiquities such .as arrow-heads, stone 
 hatchets and chisels, together with pieces of rude pot- 
 tery, and the bones of birds and animals tliat were 
 used as food. At the mouth of the harbor, the banks 
 on either side are whitened by them. A sort of clam- 
 rake with long teeth is the best thing to use in turning 
 over the shells. In heaps like these may be found 
 the bones of the moose, the deer and the bear, with 
 those of birds. The smaller l)ones are sometimes 
 
Frcnchinan s Bay. 
 
 147 
 
 llam- 
 [ning 
 
 )und 
 kvith 
 
 imes 
 
 worked into large needles or bodkins, of which the 
 Indians often had need. These are all the memorials 
 h^ft by tlie once jiowerful race tliat rnled on tliese 
 beautiful shores. Their arts were simjjle and few. 
 In the Indian museums of New EnMand, we find no 
 sculptures to speak of tliat can be attributed to the 
 Aborigines. I have seen on the liandle of a pestle 
 used to pound corn sometliing that resembles the head 
 of a snake, and in the collection at Harvard I^niver- 
 sitv, now beinij constantly added to by the zealous 
 and well-directed labors of Professor Wynian, who 
 lias it in charije, there is a small imiiuc of stone. 
 Perhaps this is the same that AVhittier celebrates in 
 one of his poems as a relic of the Northmen. This, 
 with the exception of a fine amulet, carved in steatite, 
 and found at Cape Cod, is the only sculi)ture of the 
 human form that I have been able to trace to the 
 natiyes on this part of the eastern coast. 
 
 Amonjx the remains of birds found in the shell- 
 heaps are a few of the bones of the Great Auk. One 
 has recently been uneaithed on this bay by Professor 
 "Wyman, to whom I am indebted for a siirht of it. 
 The Great Auk is now extinct, so far as these latitudes 
 are concerned, and is only found in polar regions. 
 There are now sixteen or eighteen specimens in Euro- 
 ])ean museums that must have been taken at a some- 
 what early date. The bones of the Auk tend to 
 show that an arctic climate once prevailed here. At 
 the same time the Esquimaux must also have ex- 
 
148 
 
 FrcncJimaii s Bay. 
 
 I :' 
 
 tenrlcd down this coast. Tlio Icelaii(Hc chronicles 
 demonstrate, tliat in the eleventli century, a people 
 called Skrallings, who i)ossessed Esquimaux habits and 
 characteristics, and sailed in skin-boats, were scattered 
 along the shores of Massachusetts ; and long ago they 
 probably went northward in company with the Great 
 Auk. AVe do not find any relics that can be distinctly 
 attributed to them ; j^et occasionally the relics found 
 even in these shell-heaps furnish hints of a people 
 earlier than the Indians. Sewell, in his Ancient Do- 
 minion, is very positive, and after many investigations 
 in connection with the heaps at Sagadahock and else- 
 where on this coast, affordinc: unusual r^'lics, he savs 
 that the excavated rock-embedded kettle-bottoms ''are 
 the work of an earlier race than that which greeted 
 Gosnold in these watei's. These people," lie adds. 
 " were a sea-going people, skilled in navigating the 
 dee)) in sailing vessels, sloop-rigged craft — and had 
 vessels of copper for culinary use." What if these 
 "sea-going people" were roving Northmen ? 
 
 The bones most plenty in these heaps belong to 
 the deer, but those of the moose are also found. "We 
 read in " A Brief Relation of the Discovery and 
 Plantation of New England," bearing date of 1022, 
 that in this new countrv there " is also a certain beast 
 that the natives call a moose, he is as biix \ led as an 
 ox, headed like a fallow deer, with a broad palm, 
 which he mues every year, as doth the deer, and neck 
 like a red deer, with a short mane running down aloLg 
 
Frenchman s Bay. 
 
 149 
 
 ff 
 
 We 
 
 and 
 
 C.22, 
 
 jeast 
 
 las an 
 
 the reins of his back, liis hair is long like an elk, but 
 esteemed to be better than that for the vSaddler's use, 
 he hath likewise a croat bunch han£jinij down under 
 his throat, and is of the color of the blacker sort of 
 fallow deer, his legs are long, and his feet a.^ big as 
 the feet of our oxen, his tail is lonijer than tlie sinirle 
 of the deer, and reacheth almost down to his huxens, 
 his skin maketli very good buff, and his llesh is excel- 
 lent good food, which the natives use to jeikiu and 
 keep all the year to serve their turn, and so ])roves 
 very serviceable for their use." After freeing his 
 mind of this leaden paragraph, the old writer goes t)n 
 to sav : " There have been manv of them seen in a 
 great island upon the coast, called by our jx'ople 
 Blount Mansell, [Mount Desert.] whither the Savages 
 go at certain seasons to hunt them; the manner 
 whereof is, by making of several lires ; and setting 
 the country with people, to force them into the Sea, 
 to which they arc naturally addicted, and then there 
 are others that attend them in their boats with bows 
 and weapons of several kinds, wherewith they slay 
 and take at their jdeasure." The writer conelu<les 
 by declaring to his Ivoyal Highness, l*rince ( liailes, 
 to whom the "Kelation" is dedicated, that "there is 
 hope that this kind of beasts may be made serviceable 
 for ordinai'v labor with art and industrv." 
 
 Such are the glimpses of Indian life preserved in 
 the writinjis of that da v. And in these shell-heaps are 
 the remnants of their feasts. Cobbet, in the course 
 
I50 
 
 Frcnchmaii s Bay. 
 
 of his winter's captivity, may often liave shivered over 
 the old hearth-stones that the anti(|uarian now digs 
 out. 
 
 The most accessible heaps from Bar Ilarhor are 
 those on Bar Island and at Hull's Cove, and all of 
 them require much patience and perseverance en the 
 part of the digger, as the relics are not so plenty as 
 some suppose ; though in the cart-track at the former 
 place I found a spot where tlie natives evidently made 
 their arrows, as the lialf-shaped fragments we:e dug 
 out all around it. The stone used was a variety now 
 found near Katahdin, from whence some sav it was 
 brought. Going back to a period of three hundred 
 years we may imagine that a village of Ivcd-skins are 
 here, and that still, 
 
 " The old cliicfwlio never more 
 May bond the bow or pull tlic oar, 
 Smokes gravely in his AvifjAvam door, 
 Or slowly shapes with axe ol'stor.e, 
 The arrow-head Irom flint and bone." 
 
 Yet this is only imagination. The old chief has gone 
 forever. 
 
FOG AND ITS EFFECTS. 
 
 C II A P T !• U XI. 
 
 The Air — Sunny Fr.vnci: — Tin: Gulf Strkam — Fog — 
 LuiGii Hunt — Mist in Lituraturi: — Fog on the 
 Mountains — Fog at Sea — The Tiiantom Ship. 
 
 OMPARATIVELY little has thus far 
 been said about the atmos[)here of Mount 
 Desert. The most that has been written 
 is the offspring of bright weather and fair 
 skies. And yet there are two aspeets of the case 
 that should be considered in a candid estimate of the 
 attractions of such a i)lace. 
 
 The great Constable of France asks of the Englisii, 
 
 " Is not their climate I'oggy, raw ? " 
 
 Others have plied the same query regarding IMount 
 Desert. The answer is readily given. The coast of 
 Maine is not the Azores, nor Cuba, nor Bermuda. In 
 the winter the air is " raw " enough to suit an Ice- 
 lander ; yet in summer the visitor who goes with tol- 
 erable lungs will lind it bracing and agreeable. The 
 Doii-davs are an institution altogether unknown. At 
 Mount Desert the Canicnla exists only in the almanac. 
 The shrilly-breathing zephyrus is always l'ii)ing from 
 the ocean for the refreshment of man, the mosquitos 
 
lil 
 
 
 ^Hl 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 ' 
 t 
 
 1 
 
 
 d. 
 
 . 
 
 152 
 
 Fo^ and Its Effects. 
 
 cannot live, except in the woods, and thin clothing is 
 at a disconnt. 
 
 Still it cannot be said that there is always a perfectly 
 clear sky. Tell it not in Gath. })nl)lish it not in the 
 streets of some consumptive .Vskelon ; but we must 
 confess that in this isle, with all its enchantments, we 
 fmd foi;. Yet the reader should not receive a wroni' 
 impression from the above remark, &ince so much 
 depends upon impressions. For instance, we all have 
 an impression that France is '' Sunny France ;" hence 
 it is not easy to make men regard what liish(j[) 
 Cheverus said as true, namelv, that thev have as 
 many pleasant days in New England in the course of 
 a year as among the hills of Lorraine and Languedoc. 
 Yet it is nevertheless so ; and the reader is warned 
 aiiainst the influence of anv such formula as '* Foi:<iv 
 JNIainc," lest it should prove impossible to demonstrate 
 the fact that the summer climate of Mount Desert is 
 ecjual to the attractive average claimed for the entire 
 region by the genial Jiishop. 
 
 Tlie Gulf Stream, llowing out of the great tropic 
 reservoir, ploughs northward in its ancient track, 
 attended by a thin, invisible vapor, which, when it 
 feels the cold breath of the Arctic Sea, is condensed 
 like the steam fi-om the spout of a teakettle, and n^lls 
 heavily away from the lishing IJanks of xSewfound- 
 land in the form of confirmed fog, sometimes drench- 
 ing every hill-to[) and valley along the coast. JMount 
 Desert only gets its due share ; and so far from being 
 ail objection, it adds to the beauty of the ])lace, often 
 
itn 
 
 Fog and Its Effects. i ; :; 
 
 throwing an ineinible mystery and cliarin over the 
 entire ishmd. Indeed, what would artists do without 
 it? How well it hides a deformity or heightens an 
 effect, let Landseer tell us iu pictures of mountain 
 scenery. 
 
 Whoever wishes to become an admirer of fo.r 
 should read Leigh Hunt's Essay. In his own charnT-' 
 iiig way, he gives us the literature of the subject, 
 showing the splendid use that Ossian makes of it, how 
 Homer and Virgil introduce their gods alid goddesses 
 wreathed in its glories, and how Jupiter shrouded the 
 Vale of Temi)e with fog t6 hide his amour with lo. 
 
 It is to 1)0 confessed that Shaksi)eare was not in 
 love with England's fog, yet L(Mgh Hunt goes into 
 ecstacies over its eft'ect when charged ui)on of an ("ve- 
 iling by the gasliglit in London streets, an eflect which 
 he thinks worth mentioning in connection with the 
 fine idea of Khodius, who, after bewildering the Ar-(„ 
 iiauts in the fog, brings down Apollo with his bcTw, 
 in answer to their prayer, to shoot a guiding light 
 before them to the nearest isle. 
 
 Here, and everywhere, it forms an element of sub- 
 limity, as well n: of beauty. We had climbed one 
 day to the top ot Green 3Iountain to view the splen- 
 did panorama of land and sea offered to the eye, 
 
 •• When suddaitily a grosso fog overspread 
 Witli \\U dull vapor all tlmt desert has, 
 And heaven's chearelul face enveloped. 
 ■J'hnt all things one, and one as nothing was, 
 And this great universe seemed one confused mass." 
 

 154 
 
 Fog mid Its Effects. 
 
 I 
 
 I saw sometliin;^ similar to this once when looking 
 down from IMount Waslungton into Tuckerman's 
 Kavine, where the dense fog was tossed and rolled by 
 fitful gusts, giving the appearance of a boiling ocean. 
 
 At Mount Desert we have an opportunity of study- 
 ing every variety of foggy display. Some days, it is 
 to be confessed, we found these vapory veils a sad 
 annoyance. It was unpleasant when we had arranged 
 the night previous for a tramp to Newport and a day 
 of rare enjoyment, to look out of our windows in the 
 morning and find that 
 
 " aloft on the mountains 
 Sea-fogs pitched their tents, and mists from the mighty Atlantic." 
 
 Our friend Aureole, who h.ns already been fre- 
 quently mentioned, and who occasionally indulged in 
 a transcendentalism, told us on one occasion as we 
 stood grumbling on the piazza, that our experience 
 was not at all singular, as half the people in the world 
 were in the fog all the time. 
 
 Yet in due season the advancin<2r dav often trans- 
 muted the cause of our wretchedness and discontent 
 into pure poetry ; ana then, when tramping through 
 Echo Notch, on the way to Jordan's Pond or Otter 
 Creek, Choriambus would call us to 
 
 " Look down that dark ravine, 
 And watch the white and swittly-climbing mist, 
 liOlling in silence up the narrow llssuro 
 lietween those rugged, black, forbidding rocks, 
 Like troops of angels climbi ig fearlessly 
 Into a dark and rough and hardened soul;" 
 
Fog and Its Effects. 
 
 155 
 
 or else notify the less imaginative portion of the 
 tranipers of the all-important fact, that 
 
 " From the hills 
 White bridal veils of mist \vere lilted up 
 liy the guy .sun, who kij>sod them till they blushed 
 With light and joy,"— 
 
 ns- 
 mt 
 
 ter 
 
 a quotation pa'ticularly enjoyed by the young huliei^. 
 We never failed to notice the fine illusions, nor 
 neglect the mysterious antics played by the mist far 
 out at sea. Here is where it is most effective in its 
 exhibitions of magic. Sometimes, in a clear day, 
 when not a sail can be seen in tlie whole oiruiii;, a 
 great breath comes from the Grand Bank, spreading 
 over the horizon a thin film of vapor, and suddenly a 
 whole fleet a^ipears sailing upon the sea. "Whence 
 come they ? The philosopher tells us that a ray of 
 light passing from a rare medium to a dense one, is 
 bent downward ; hence we always see the sun before 
 he is really up. A slightly dissimilar operation of the 
 light, reveals, perhaps, under favorable circnmstances, 
 a fleet of fishiniij vessels that is nearlv out of si^iht 
 below the horizon. Then with another puff of the 
 breeze, the scene changes and this same fleet appears 
 bravely sailing through the air. Again the fleet is 
 doubled, one tier of vessels sailing over the other ; or 
 else, oddly enough, one tier bottom up, completely 
 capsized — and yet securely sailing along the lower 
 edge of a cloud, as the fly travels, feet upward, on a 
 
ff 
 
 156 
 
 Fog and Its Effects. 
 
 I 
 
 El i 
 
 ceiling. At the Isles of Shoals this eflect is witnessed 
 ofteuer than at Mount Desert. Savs Whittier : 
 
 " Sometimes, in calms of closing? day, 
 They wutclied the spectral miia^e phiy, 
 Saw low, far islands, looming tall an<l uigli, 
 And ships, with upturned keels, sail like a sea the sky." 
 
 As for the effect of fog upon i.^lands, we had a 
 splendid illustration of it in crossing from Grand Me- 
 nan to Lubec, when the AYolf islands, lvinj>- in the 
 mouth of the Bay of Fundy, and which oidinarily, 
 from that point, ap|)ear as mere s[)ecks in the horizon, 
 now lifted up their tine rugged clifls far above the 
 surface of the sea. In several cases the image was 
 even trebled, so that three islands appealed one above 
 another. As on the real island there were a number 
 of projecting points, these, in the beautiful economy 
 of optics, were elongated into huge Doric pillars, upon 
 which the two upper isles seemed firmly planted, the 
 l)illars being displayed between like the columns of a 
 double gallery. The sight was almost bewildering. 
 The skipper said that he had often witnessed the same 
 thing, but never saw a finer efT'ect than this. 
 
 Leigh Hunt's admiration of London fog in the gas- 
 light has been alluded to, and we may go back to the 
 Isles of Shoals long enough to speak of a figure sug- 
 gested in somewhat the same connection by Lowell, in 
 a poem very unequal in its parts. The poem referred 
 to is descriptive of White Island and the vicinity, and 
 suiriiests the resemblance between the huse beams that 
 
Fog ami Its Effects. 
 
 ^S7 
 
 dart from llio lantoni info tlic ii.ist niwl (l.c nnns of h 
 giant read.in- up towards tl.o tower from the waves. 
 He says : 
 
 " And wlionovor the Avholo wciV},t of occnn is thrown 
 iMill and lair on WJiito Inland head. 
 
 A f,Meat nii.st jotun you will see, 
 
 lAiduit himself up silently 
 ITiffh and hu-e, o'er the li-hthou,'^o top, 
 W ith hands of waverin- mist outspread, 
 
 (Jropinor after the little tower 
 
 That seems to shrink and shorten and cower. 
 Till the monster's arms of a sudden drop, 
 
 And silently and fruitlessly 
 
 lie sinks again into the sen." 
 
 Tennyson also makes a good use of mist, and illus- 
 trates its capacity for scenic efTect. In the Idyls of 
 the King, describing the departure of Artliur from 
 the convent, from wlience he was seen by Guinevere 
 the poet says : ' 
 
 " And even as ho turn'd; and more and moro 
 I ho moony vapor rolling round the King 
 Who eocm'd the phantom of a (iiant in it,' 
 Lnwound him fold by fold, and made him grny 
 And grayer till himself became as mist 
 Before her, moving ghost-likc to his doom." 
 
 A state of mind like that of the Queen's, would of 
 course assist the illusion, yet both by sunlight and 
 moonlight the effects of mist are often wierd and 
 impressive in the highest degree, especially when thev 
 go so for in cheating our own senses. Hence come^ 
 the notion of the Flying Dutchman and the Phantom 
 felnps in general, which find many a true believer 
 
Ill 
 
 J58. 
 
 Fog and Its Effects, 
 
 amoni^ tlie old fisliermon of ^Mount Desert. When 
 the IMiaiitom Ship is seen sailin<< \\^, one of tlie liar- 
 bors it is an evil omen. It means Death. She usu- 
 ally comes sweeping in under a cloud of canvass, yet 
 with the silence of a fdiost. As she nears the strand, 
 familiar forms appear on the deck, while the master, 
 like some immovable statue, points with his finger 
 towards the sea. The old fisherman is perhaps about 
 to hail, when a weird light Hashes around her masts, 
 which topple and fall, while the swelling sails fade 
 into airy nothings. Soon, mast, sails, hull and all, 
 are blent in ocean burial. The old fisherman starts, 
 rubs his eyes, feels sad all day, and remembers it ever 
 thereafter. 
 
 AVhittier, who is so familiar with the coast, gives us 
 a fine picture of these fog-built craft in his poem of 
 the Dead Ship of llarpswell, to which, however, he 
 denies a crew . 
 
 " What flecks the outer gray beyond 
 
 The suiulown's golden trail? 
 Tlio white flash of a tea-bird's wing, 
 
 Or gleam of slanting sail 'i 
 Let young eyes watch from Neck and Point, 
 
 And sea-worn elders pray, — 
 The gliost of what was once a ship 
 
 Is sailing up the bay? 
 
 From gray sea-fog, from icy drift, 
 , From peril and from pain. 
 
 The homo-bound fisher greets thy lights, 
 
 O iiundred-harbored Maine I 
 lint many a keel shall seaward turn, 
 
 And many a sail outstand, 
 Wiien. tall and white, the Dead Ship looms 
 
 Against the dusk of land. 
 
'"^^'BmimmmmmBmn 
 
 Fog and lis Effects. 
 
 She rounds (|,c hondland's bristling pines 
 
 .S1h> f liroad.s (ho islr-H..t bay ; 
 ^'o r.i)ur ofbreozo can speed "her on, 
 
 Nor ebb of fide delay. 
 Old men still walk tlie Mo of Orr 
 
 Who tell lier date and name, 
 Old siiipxvri-hfs sit in rreei)ort yards 
 
 Who hewed her oaken frame. 
 
 Wliat weary doom of baffled quest, 
 
 Thou sad sea-;,'host. is thine? 
 What makes thee in the haunts of home 
 
 A wonder and a sign? 
 No foot is on thy silent deck. 
 
 Upon thy helm no hand; 
 No ri,)pieliath the ^cundlews wind 
 That smites thee Irom ihe land! 
 
 For never comes the sln'p to port 
 
 Ilowe'er the breeze may be; 
 Jn^t when she nears the uaiti'n;? sliore 
 
 She drifts again to sea. 
 No tack ot sail nor turn of helm, 
 
 Nor sheer of veering side; 
 Stern-lore she drives lo sea and night 
 
 Against tlio wind and tide. 
 
 In vain o'er Ilarpswell Xeck the star 
 
 Of evening guides lierin; 
 In vain for her tlie lamps are lit 
 
 Within tliy tower, Seguin ! 
 In vain the harbor-boat siiall hail, 
 
 In vain the pilot call; 
 No hand shall reef lier spectrni sail, 
 
 Or let her anchor tail. 
 
 Shake, brown old wives, with drcarvjoy, 
 
 Your gray-head hints of ill; 
 And, over sick-beds whisjjering low, 
 
 Your projdiecies ful/il. 
 Some home amid von birclien troca 
 
 Shall drape its door with woo; 
 And slowly where the Dead .Ship sails, 
 
 The burial boat shall row! 
 
 159 
 
i6o Fog and Its Effects. 
 
 From Wolf-Xrck aiul from Flying- Point, 
 
 From island juul from niain, 
 From sliellerod cove and tidtd creek, 
 
 Sliall f^lidc the luneral train. 
 The dead-boat with the bearers four. 
 
 The mourners at her stern, — 
 And one sliall go tlie silent way 
 
 Who sliall no more leturn I 
 
 And men sliall sigh, and women weep, 
 
 Whoso dear ones pale and pine, 
 And sadly over sunset seas 
 
 Await the ghostly sign. 
 They know not that its sails are filled 
 
 l'»y pity's tender breath, 
 Is'or SCO the Angel at the lielm 
 
 Who steers the Ship of Death !" 
 
 This, I believe, is quite an ortliodox jiicture of tlie 
 Plumtom Sliip, wliicli still occasionally sails into these 
 harbors, in foixirv weather, to announce that some lonir 
 missing vessel has been buried in the deep. To deny 
 that the IMiantom Ship was ever seen, would, in some 
 quartern at least, be denounced as heresy. IJesides, 
 why need we doubt it' Sit on the rocks at Great 
 Head and watch, and you may see one of these unsul)- 
 stantial craft almost any day. Talking about this 
 matter on one occasion among the clifls at tlie above- 
 mentioned place. Mr. Oldstyle generalized the sid>ject 
 somewhat after the style of Aureole, tellii'ij us that 
 it was not the fisherman alone who was led by ])han- 
 toms ; that life itself was one long inirafje and i'ull of 
 unreal appearances shaped out of the fogs of the soul : 
 while the ever-ready Choriambus chimed in with a 
 Persian verse : 
 
Fog- and Its Effects. i6i 
 
 " From Iho mists oftho oconii ofTnitl, in tl.o skies, 
 A Mlrnfje in dolmlii.s ivtlfctions ,l„tl, rise\ 
 There is naught but reality there to be seen, 
 AVe Iiave here but the Vw ut its vapory ^heen." 
 
 As we rose up f,Y,m our seat ou tl.e rocks, a stron<^ 
 I'l-eeze swept up from tl.e souil,, dispellino- all tlu^se 
 ^veu•(l illusions of the foo- tl.at Iiovered aloiio- ,l,e l,ori- 
 zon, rolliucr -nvay great iielcls of vapor, and leavin.r 
 nothmo- hefure us but tlie open sea. Returning ju.nu- 
 ward, I Jicard Clioriandais, who just then ^walked 
 slightly ai.art, murnu.rino-, half unconsciously, those 
 well known lines from The Tempest: 
 
 " These * « * 
 
 Are melted into air, into thin air: 
 
 And. like the baseless fabric of this vision 
 
 The cIoud-cai.pM towers, the porgeous palaces, 
 
 The solemn temples, the or,cat -lobe itself: 
 
 Yea, all which inherit, shall (Ii>snlve, 
 
 And, like this insubstantial pageant laded, 
 
 Leiivo not a rack behind." 
 
rl 
 
 ! ! 
 
 FISH AND FISHER' FOLK. 
 
 i i'li: 
 
 C II A r T E li XII. 
 
 Kahly Fisiif.ries — Aquaria — Japaxkse Lyrics — Wi:trs 
 — PouroiSE — Oil — Tin: Fisiikuman's Laxguagi: — His 
 Famh. 
 
 jCCORDING to the Muliomctan theory, 
 the cartli itself is a fish; but, wliatever 
 may be our o\\\\ views on the subject, 
 HI) we must assign to that order of creation 
 a very large j)ortion of its inhabitants. Fish foi-ni 
 the fourth class of vertebrate animals, breathing 
 throuixh uills and travellini; bv means of their tails. 
 Yet some lish, like those of Ceylon, would seem to 
 view both of these ai)[)endages as suijerlluous, since 
 they can live imbedded in the mud, or, like monkevs, 
 climl) the trees. Tiie lish around iMount Desert, 
 however, are of a very proper sort, and indulge in no 
 such eccentricities, but follow the primal instinct, 
 sporting exclusively in the sea. 
 
 The Northmen who sailed in these waters in the 
 eleventh century, never attempted to utilize the vast 
 stores of living wealtli existing in the deep, yet no 
 soonei' had the existence of the continent been made 
 
risJi and rishcr-FoIk, 
 
 iC>3 
 
 nils, 
 ill to 
 nice 
 
 ivOVS, 
 
 sort, 
 
 In no 
 
 inct, 
 
 the 
 vast 
 It no 
 
 Inado 
 
 known l>v the \ovai'os of C'aliol* and Cohinil)us, tlian 
 tliis wliolc coast swarmed 'w kh li>hernKMi iVom tlie 
 old world. IJut these llsliurineii were from Ivomaii 
 Catholic countries, while the self-willed, imix'tuous 
 XorthiiK'ii knew Christianity onlv by name and cai-^Ml 
 litthi for keeping tlie body under with abstinent iisli. 
 The season of Lent was nothiuij: to them. r>ut in 
 order to supply the faithful on the continent with tht; 
 duly i)rescribed food, the sailors of liiscay i-ei;ulariy 
 sailed to these coasts, wliei-e, iidini»: at anchor amidst 
 the driving gales and drenching fog, they patiently 
 hauled up the rich treasures of the deep. 
 
 We learn from rnrclnis and llakhiyt, that as early 
 as the year lo27 a lame fleet of lishiiiix vessels, one 
 of ^vhich was English, liad assenibknl at St. John's, 
 Ne^v Foundland, which was a place of general ren- 
 dezyons at that time. Pnrchas also tells ns of one 
 old r)asrpie fisherman, named Sayelet, who at an early 
 period had performed no less than forty anmud yoy- 
 ajijes to these distant shores. 
 
 When the American colonies \vcre establislied, the 
 people were not slow to engage in the same protitablo 
 toil. ]Men of eyery grade in society wove ejirly inter- 
 ested, the noble as well as th(» humble boin ; so thiit 
 the rhymster of that day might havc^ said with truth, 
 
 "Tho l)nk(> of Xorfollt douls in malt, 
 The Duuglus in red herrings." 
 
 (11 — Cabot is here montionod first, in spealdng of thi-< part of fho 
 coast, for tiio reason that hn hail made more than one voyage to the 
 continent of America before Columbus even saw it. 
 
 
 I 
 
 i 
 
164 
 
 Fish and Fis/icr-Folk, 
 
 Tlio people of Maine and Massacliiisetts were f(jre- 
 most in tlie business. Tlie inliabilants of Blount 
 Desert always enjoyed the <i,reatest facilities for car- 
 rying' on the lislieries, as tlie "round la\' before llieir 
 doors. And tliey know all about the work. Fuller 
 said of liutlei", tlu; apiarist, that either lie had told 
 the bee> things, or th(3 bees had told him. The same 
 niiiiht be said of these people and the lisli. Yet there 
 is one thinui; evidently ncjt fully understood after all, 
 at least by the fisherman, though possibly by the fish 
 — namely, that the trade is overworked, or, otherwise, 
 that thcire is too much fishing. 
 
 That is a dangerous theory which holds that there 
 ar(,' just as many fish in the sea as ever came out of it. 
 Aciing on this idea, the fislierman is rapidl}' extermi- 
 nating the denizens of the sea, as the hunt(n' has 
 already destroyed the game upon the land ; and unless 
 soiiKi wiser policy is adopted for the regulation of the 
 fisheries, the cod may become as scarce as deer. On 
 the English coast this fate has already overtaken the 
 haddock. '' Where are the haddocks ?" said Mr. Ber- 
 tram once to a Xew-ITaven fisherman. " They are 
 about all eaten up, sir," was his ])rompt reply. The 
 shore races of this fish have disapjieared, and they 
 must now be sought afar in the deep water. 
 
 This continoencv is not to be treated in an idle 
 way, for if we refer to the condition of the fisheries 
 two hundred years ami, it will be found that since 
 then the tpiantity of fish in our own waters lias fallen 
 
FisJi at id Pis her- Folk. 
 
 165 
 
 off in an nlarmiuix de^roe. Fornicrlv ^ sliin nii'i-lit 
 be loaded wiili cod iniv\vh(;re on tliis coast, Nvliilc the 
 veiy harbors were alive with whale and e\crv species 
 of the cetacean. Now to <j;et a ^reat '•fare" of li>h 
 the dweller at Monnt De>ert nuist i^o a loiii^ Novate ; 
 while the hunted Le\ialhan leads his pur>ner in the 
 chase chieflv anionic: the .Vrclic beros. jVlso. on the 
 British coast, where once eii-ht; hundred trawl hooks 
 would take seven hundred and fifty fish, now a line 
 baited with four thousand liooks will sonietinies take 
 less than one liundred. And if so much has biM-n 
 done to exterminate the fish in tico centuries, whati 
 mav not be done in toi'^ Loni; a2:o it was found 
 necessary to protect tlie fish in our fresh lakes and 
 mountain streams by the force of positive law ; and 
 with the great future of our country before ns, a 
 future whose necessities we cannot bt-gin to estimate, 
 even thou<»h restricted within tin; limits of a sinijle 
 century, who shall say that it may not soon be neces- 
 sary to devise some wiser reiiidations for the prolec- 
 tion of the inhabitants of the sea ? 
 
 Yet there is a practical dilliculty now exist itii,^ in 
 relation to the preservation of the sea fi>h. It is 
 f »und in the fact that we know so little in rei;ard to 
 their habits. AVhat for instance <lo we know of the 
 most imporlant of the food lishes, the cod? Next to 
 n'thinj*-. AVe are even ignorant of the time when it 
 begins to be reproductive. Yet how important i> such 
 knowledge, in view of its possible exhaustion and 
 
 S 
 
 . 
 
^ 
 
 1 66 
 
 risJi and Fis/ui'-Folk, 
 
 intollii^ciit j>i-ot('cti;)n. ^I:r.iif('>tly it is not f)r tlie 
 iuttTcst of \\\i\ lisluM'iiuiu to iiHltilgo in llu; present iii- 
 discriminjiU; .siaiiiilitcr. 
 
 Ill olli(!r hniiiclies of luitural liistory oui* knowh'd^c 
 is extremely full. Whoever takes ini ^Mrs. Auassiz's 
 work on the Ivadiates of ^Massachusetts l>a\ , w ill be 
 astonished by the wonderful exactness of knowledire 
 sliown iiL relation to the oriijjin, ijrowth, and habits of 
 this branch of the animal kiiig<lom. The same knowl- 
 edge in connection with our economic fishes would be 
 worth untold sums of gold. This abun(hince of in- 
 formal ioi .. howeyer, is readdy explained l)y the fact 
 that the ibitats of the l^adiates are all within reach, 
 and sid)ject to careful observation. Indeed, the pai'lor 
 acpuirium, which, wheu rightly managed, is a perfect 
 miniature sea, affords am})le o[)portunities for carrying 
 on studies of this kind. On the other hand, we have 
 no suiricient rece[)tacle for the portly cod and the 
 noble blue-fish and bass. Their home is in the deep, 
 and until we have monster acjuaria established along 
 our coasts wherein these fish may thrive, and be at 
 at the same time under observation, this branch of 
 icthyoloiry will make little |)roixress. Would it not, 
 therefore, be a wise act for our Government to estab- 
 lish such a depot on the Xorth-Atlantic coast, where, 
 by a course of exact scientific observation, the whole 
 (piestion of reproduction might come to be under- 
 stood. At least this is the only way in which we can 
 learn when it is profitable to kill fish and when to let 
 
FisJi and FisJicr-Folk. 
 
 167 
 
 at 
 of 
 i-)t, 
 ib- 
 re. 
 Die 
 
 ur- 
 tin 
 
 et 
 
 tlK'in live. Oii(^ writer says tliat lie has the authority 
 of a li^herinan for stalini:; that the cod do not grow at 
 a greater rate than from ('iirht to twelve ounces a year. 
 Tic had seen a cod that was imprisoned hy accident in 
 a roek-pool oil the shore, whoixj he had the opportii- 
 iiitv of ohservinix his powci' of di^•estion for a ixM'iod 
 of several weeks, and found it weak, though there was 
 ;in ahundance of food. The haddock, he thought, 
 would grow at a more rapid i-ate. And why C(juld 
 not every fisher-village, without waiting for the action 
 of the government, estahli>h an a(iuarium in some one 
 of the many rock-pools that line this ruined coast? 
 What village will lead the way aiid set the exam[)le? 
 In the care of the fisheries, the authorities of the 
 Dominion are in advance of the States. For a con- 
 siderable period trawl-fishing was i)rohibited by law 
 at Grand Menan, and the act has now ex[)ired only 
 bv limitation. For three months in the year, duririir 
 the spawning season, the ca[)ture of herring around 
 the southern head of Grand ^lenan with nets is abso- 
 lutely prohibited, and the olhcer in charge of this 
 de[)artment often patrols the water on foggy nights, 
 fully armed, to enforce the law. But at Blount 
 Desert, as elsewhere on the entire coast, there is no 
 restriction, and the fish arc without a secure i)lace to 
 spawn. There are nets in the bay, nets in the cove, 
 nets among the islands, and nets out at sea. These 
 sea nets are of the largest class, and have as an 
 auxilliary a good sized vessel and half a dozen men 
 
I 
 
 1 68 
 
 Fisli and Fis!i:r-FoIL\ 
 
 f. »i- ,'i (M'c'-v. Oik; lli:ih I saw was over a th:)U>a:i(l fcot 
 l;):iLr aiul oik; liim<lrL'il t'oi'l d 'c^). It was manai^cd on 
 tlu; haif^iiiL? [)i'iiK'ij)U;, tlic; li^h ii;)}, being '" laclicd," 
 that is, cauuflit by tho ii;ills in iho mcshcjs. as tlicir 
 acfniinulatcil weight wluai dcNul would ^ink tlio net to 
 tlic l)o!toiu, bat W(;r(j (Mitra')])(jd, as bv means of a 
 sack, which luclliod leaves them still alive, and swim- 
 \\\\\vx iVcelv, bat last ])riso:iei*s. The mcsliuets ai'e 
 not more than a dozen feet deep, and are set by llsh- 
 ermeii who -generally li\c on the shore and among the 
 islands, from whence they watch the aj)|)roacli of the 
 fish, rippling in schools on the surfac(! of tin; water. 
 Thev can always tell when the lish are near, so tiiat 
 for a good portion of the time their nets are. of course, 
 out of the water, which is extremely iniurious to 
 twine, and left to dry upon the shore. The nets 
 thus exposed often reminded me of :i lyric in a collec- 
 tion of Japanese odes recently brought out as curi- 
 osities in an English dress. There are (piite a num- 
 ber referring to the sea and the fish"i-ies. One 
 runs : 
 
 " By tir dim pjrey li^Mit of t-arly uuwu 
 I strayod by Uji'ss wave, 
 From wlicncc tlio riftinj^ mist upborne 
 3Io scutttMTd filini])sos j;avo 
 
 Of Zt'ze's s'alccs tliore scf, 
 Wlicrcon tlio liLdior ppreads his net." 
 
 Another ex[)resses the longings of the Son of 
 Udaisho Yoritonio, wh(^ became " Kubo," whatever 
 that may mean, — in loOo. This individual, who was 
 
"1 
 
 Fish and FisJic '>-k. 
 
 169 
 
 evuleiitly so much dissatislied with tho city, ex- 
 claims : 
 
 " O that tIir()u;,'liout nn oiidlcss life 
 J iui;,'lit in peaci' dwell, liir IVorn strife! 
 I't^nncr watcli tin.' lisliiiiir yaw I, 
 And view the net's abundant liaiil : 
 
 IJow fair to nie ' 
 
 How pleasaiit such a lot would be." 
 
 lie would probably liav(! joined veiy sympathizinolv 
 ill the soiinr of '-The Jolly Jelly Fi.sli," so often suii'ir 
 at .Alount J)esert. 
 
 liut 1 will trouble the reader with one more of 
 these lyrics, of the date of 1l>1(), in which the hard- 
 ships of the fisherman's lite are set forth: 
 
 " I would tluit I nii;,'ht show to theo 
 
 Theisland-lislier'? olt drenched sleeve, 
 I would that thine own eyes nii_t,dit sec 
 IIow the salt waves their tints ne'er thieve;" 
 
 adding immediately, for this was a perfect Jeremiah 
 among the " Japs" : 
 
 " From mine, alas! 
 Aye, tear-bedewed, the colors pass." 
 
 There is even another still more destructive way of 
 fishing. The net is fairly eclipsed by the weirs. 
 These are huge tra[)s, built on shallows and bai-s. in 
 which the silly lisli are impounded. Selecting S(;me 
 spot on the shore where the tide recedes at low water, 
 a fence of wicker-work is made with stri[)s of deal or 
 s[)ruce saplings, mclosing an area varying from one- 
 half to three or four acres. A i^rood-sized "-atewav is 
 
w 
 
 »; 
 
 170 
 
 F/s/i ami ris/icr-Folk, 
 
 I 
 
 left fur the fish to go in, and w lien once in they do 
 not li.'ivo wit cnonirh to .'ittein})t to go ont, jil least in 
 season, bnt go circling ai'ound the sides, shooting past 
 the o|)(.'n gate. When the tide has gone nearly down, 
 the fisherman entei-s the weir with a skilF, closes the 
 enti'ance, and, taking a great scoop-net, jnnips into 
 (lie water and soon loads the boat with handsome 
 licrrini:^, which are conveyed ashore to he i)nt in 
 l)ickl(; or hung np on sticks in the great cnring-honse 
 Vvhose smoke, in ihesc parts, ascends forever. l)y this 
 ])roccss the fish, both small and gie;it, are alike 
 destroyed. The small herrinij, indeed, have no direct 
 conmiercial value, and should be carefully restored to 
 the water as soon as taken, to jicrfoiin their part in 
 supi>lying the future stock; and yet tlu^sc are all 
 remorselessly thrown into the ])arr(jw and trundled off 
 to manure the iiround, v\hich could easily be enriched 
 by the inexhaustible supply of shells and other fcrtil- 
 i;'jng matter now lying useless upon the shore. Gen- 
 tle Islander, I pray you heed the voice of reason and 
 common sense, and, while you slay your landjs at a 
 tendei'er age, let the young fish go. 
 
 One very earnest English writer says with truth : 
 '• Our great farm, the sea, is free to all — too free ; 
 there is no seed, no manure to provide, and no rent 
 to p'^y. Every adventurer who can procure a boat 
 may go out and spoliate the shoals ; he has no care 
 for the growth or preservation of creatures wdiich he 
 lias been tauiiht to think inexhaustible. In one sense 
 
1 
 
 Fish and rishcr-Folk, 
 
 171 
 
 it is of no cnnsoquonro to a fislienn.'ui tliat Iio ralrlics 
 ('(xHiiiu^s instead of cod ; \vli;itcver size liis fish iu;iy he, 
 llicv yield liim wliat lie fi'^hes lor — iiionev. Wliat if 
 all the herriiii^ lio captures ho erowded wilh spawn ? 
 What if thev ho viri»in li>h th:it have nev< r ;idd«'(l a 
 (jUotM, to the li'eiieral stoek? Th.'it is :ill as iiolhiiiL,^ to 
 the fishcnuau. as h)nix :i"^ thev lirinij him iiii)ne\-. It 
 is tlio same, in all li>heries. ()ur 'i\'vK\ nnreiiiilat('(l 
 lishories are, in my hmnhle opiidon, a thoroiinh mis- 
 take." 
 
 And disinterested, thinkinir men will e\ei'vwhere he 
 found to declare tills iud«nnent true ; for onlv a sav- 
 aiiO will irather liis corn indi>criminatel\ . whether 
 i-i[>c or unripe, or cut down his trees to get their fi'uit: 
 or, again, liaul n[) his grass hy the roots to make 
 hav. 
 
 ])Ut while earnestly deploring this wast(i of wealth, 
 it nuist he confessed that a visit to the lish-wei rs is 
 \erv instructive nnd entertaininix. In some i>laees the 
 Ix^ttom of the weir at low water is left, ])erfectlv drv, 
 as at CajJC Cod, where the iisherman has only to walk 
 in and [)ick \\\) the hlue lisli on the sand; and in oth- 
 ers, as at Luhec and ('am[)0 liello, ther(? is always 
 water enough f )r a whale. At Luhec I saw the re- 
 mains of a shark caught thus, that Avas ahout thii'ty 
 f'et loni::, :iiid who>.e liver made five harrels of oil. 
 Sometimes they are taken there forty feet in h.Migth. 
 In such ca;res they make a foi-midahle fight, and the 
 trusty rille mu&t come in as the auxiliary of the liar- 
 
w 
 
 172 
 
 Fis/i. and Fis/icr-Folk. 
 
 I 
 
 i 
 
 noon. At Blount Desert tlicv occasionally fiii'l a ijjood- 
 sized shark or horse mackerel, hut ot'tener the |)()r[)oiso 
 thus comes into the \V(;ir. Schools of these conlinnally 
 ganihol ahout the hay for the edilication of vi>Itors, or 
 as a prize for the Indians who hunt them lor oiL I 
 started once across FrenchmaiTs Hay for their camp 
 on Ii-on-hound I.-land. to s('(i thorn at home, paddlini^' 
 w ith an old tra[)jier in his haik canoe ; hut w hen we 
 <^ot halfway oyer, a hard raiu-storm set in. and we 
 thought it host to return at once. Si ill the trip 
 aOoi'ded an oj)portuiiity of tostini^ the (pialilie-^ of tho 
 •'hark*' on the lon^^ ocean swell. Xo hoat c.)nld havo 
 hehaved more admirahly. Ihit to return. 
 
 Sometimes the poi"pois(.'s show their glitterini^ hacks 
 close in hy the cpiay, and seem on the point of land- 
 ing for the purpose of ai)plying for rooms. Contrary 
 to the yie\ys of many persons, the i)oi'poise (Phoraua 
 communis ) is not a lish at all, ha\ini: oidv a few of 
 the eccentricities of the li>h, and living in the water, 
 forming a curious connection hetween the two most 
 distant orders of Yertehriites, the mammalia heinix 
 the hiirhest and the fish the lowest, St>me say that iti 
 /00/iA' like a fish, and //rt'.s" lik^. a lish, an<l that to all 
 intents and purposes it U' a fiNh ; yet if the por[)oise 
 is u fi^h, Izaak Walton was a fish ; whereas in tiaith, 
 he was simply a li^herman. In its most distinguished 
 feature, the pori)oihC is more a mdn than ajis/i. J.iko 
 the Pearl-diver, he is constantly diving; yet whatever 
 lie does, unlike u lish, he must come to the surface 
 
Fish and risJicr-FoIk. 
 
 /J 
 
 it it 
 all 
 
 til, 
 led 
 
 -iko 
 ver 
 aco 
 
 aiul hrcatlio. Tlie diO'crence botwof^n tlio divor and 
 tlu; porpoise is. that tlio latter can hold his breath 
 loiinc* than the former. The porpoise can caiMy an 
 extra snp[)ly of air. Soani.in i:<>iiii:" do\\ i iti a, di\ iiiix- 
 Ix'll carries a littler atniosphtM'e around him. but the 
 ])oi'pois(''s diviiigdx'U is within him. Thus nmch lor 
 the ))orpoise. 
 
 AN'hcn vi>ilin!^ the weir at Bar T-^land. wc \vor(^ not 
 favored bv an interview with this creature, vet a 
 
 « * 
 
 numerous assemblage of the linny tribes awailcd in- 
 spection. 
 
 The li>h('rman in charixo was v(U'v aceommodatinix, 
 and ferried Amarinta and the rest ov<'r the shallow 
 water into th(3 w«'ir, and then waded in with his 
 scoop-net and proceeded to catch the herrinix. which 
 rushed about the weir exceeirmi^ly frighten<'d. Wlien 
 drop[)ed out of thti net into the boat, tliey set up a 
 profliirious drumminir. The herring iti th(^ water 
 could b(> di>tinctlv seen, their sides llashiiej; lil^c; >il- 
 ver. The rest of the li>h did not seem to mind our 
 presence, an<l swmiu leisui'ely around tlu; boat, or l;iy 
 still whi!<' we paildl<<l amoni,^ them. r»e>sides the 
 hei'i'iiig there were menhad<'n. siUcry hake, dog-ll.-h. 
 rockcod. scid[»in, lloun<lers, [>ol!ock, scates, and geo-e 
 or monkfi>h. The two latter wer(» extremely tame, n-id 
 several <d' the monk-li-h were five and six leet loni;-. 
 ]*uttinu: the blade of an oar into its broad mouth, this 
 li>h W(»uld hold on with its teeth until diawn up to 
 the boat, and when alongside they wouhl swim slowly, 
 
1/4 
 
 FisJi and Fishcr-rolk. 
 
 I 
 
 so tliat we could touch tlicir backs with our huuds. 
 In tlic wiitcr, tlicir movements arc us dignilied a^ 
 tliose of an empress di'aij'uiii'r a loni^; train. On tlic 
 otlier liand the scatc is rather chimsy, and when I 
 ti[)ped them over on their backs, they liad liard woik 
 to recover from this i)osition. Such a muhitude of 
 li>li, for there were thousands of them, all at liome in 
 their native element, formed a rare sight, and one for 
 which the naturalist miglit well afford a journey lo 
 INIount Desert. 
 
 Cod ai(i not taken in these weirs, but are fished 
 with lines aii<I trawls. This is called boat-iishiiii»' 
 Fi-hing with lines is very laborious work, as it often 
 oc(.'upies the whole night, some llsh being taken only 
 at that time. Trawling, however, is more easy. ]>y 
 this method the fisherman fastens a hundred or two 
 baited hooks at regular distances on a small roj)e. 
 which is sunk to X\w bottom and left, eaeh end beinu" 
 marked ])y a buov to which they are attached. The 
 iishcrmau leaves it to itself, and onlv iiDCs at certain 
 hours to rebait the hooks and take olf the li.sh that 
 a'.e caught. 'J'his practice is very destructive, and 
 .should be sup{)ressed by law ; that is, unless we wish 
 to banish the cod and the haddock to deep water. 
 
 Some of the lishermcn talk very sensibly on this 
 and other subjects connected with the lisheries. It 
 was (piite entertaining to go on board of their vessels 
 as they lay in the haibor, and enter upon conversation. 
 I found two distinct classes of fishermen, that may 
 
^1 
 
 i 
 
 Fish and Fishcr-Folk. 
 
 / 3 
 
 liar 
 
 his 
 It 
 
 be called llic eld ircliool and the new. The former 
 are o[»eii to su^xgeslioiis, and aiixi(»us tu profit IVoiu 
 science, while the latter kept old horse-shoes nailed to 
 the foremast, near thedfck, to diixeaway the witches, 
 and think that there is no danger of e\ha\istinir the 
 buj)j)ly of fish. IMiere were *• li>h enongh" in the 
 &ea. " But why don't you catch ihemi'" 1 incpiircd. 
 '" AVell, they didn't know ; the peojjle threw so much 
 ' ijjurry' overboard in the harbors.*' J>v thi> thev 
 meant tlu; heads and entrails of the iL^h. 'JMiev 
 seemed to think that it had soniethini'- of the eilect of 
 pirates hung on headlands in chains, or the grinning 
 skulls of bold hiiihwavmen, lixed on siiikes over Lon- 
 dou gate. Once, as they confessed, it was eas}^ to 
 go oif in a b(*>at and get fifteen dollars' worth of hake 
 in a few hours, but now they often toiled all the night 
 and took iiothinix. Thev did not however ihi'ow 
 awav all th(i "irurrv.'' The liver and the soinids, that 
 is, the air vessels attached to the back-bone, are care- 
 fully preserved, the livers for oil, and the hake sounds 
 for si/iuLT, and — would vou b(di(!vc it, lads and lasses? 
 — for gum-drops. It is iie\ertheless so, and when at 
 the confectioner's you roll the unhealthy things under 
 your toniiuo, as a sweet morsel, dreaminix of the Asiat- 
 ic Acacia bleediuix awav its ricli lifi; in a thick resi- 
 nous ooze, just rciiuinber that your gum may have 
 oriiiiiiated in the fish-tid)s of Moiuit Desert. 
 
 Those interested in cod liver oil will 'dso peiha|)s 
 feel unv.illino, to learn that this ihimjj can seldom be 
 
m 
 
 176 
 
 Fis/i and Fis/icr-Folk, 
 
 i 
 
 I 
 
 liud. Tlinrcare (lou])tlcss persons ulio mamifaclure it, 
 and I could readily point at least to one — yet careful 
 ol)^el•vati<^ns extendinj; aloni; the ]\Iaine coast from 
 I-Ic-^ of Shoals to (irand ]\[enan, did not afford me a 
 lilinipse of a. 2:allon of the jj^eiuiine stuff. The most 
 of the fishermen franklv aekno\vledii;ed that every- 
 tliini; in the shape of a liver went into the connnon 
 val : A\hile others confessed the truth when it was 
 nriicd liom(\ Let consumptives take notice. 
 
 Still there is no nioi'al obli(piity on the part of the 
 ii>h<'rman. lie simply sells the livers at so nnich the 
 l)ucket to the factor or speculator, and usually speaks 
 of the ])ro(hict as *' liver oil." If speculators call 
 this stuff "cod liver oil," \vhen they put it in tiie 
 market, it cei'tainly is not his faidt. The fisherman 
 himself is generally a good-hearted man, notwithstand- 
 ing his rough exterior, and in many cases maintains a 
 noble independence. lie will do the sea-side visitor 
 a service, and, notwithstanding his poverty, decline 
 receiviuii" anv remuneration. These cases are all the 
 more noticeable, for the reason that most of the jieople 
 by the sea-side, feci that the summer is their harvest- 
 time, and that thev must hasten to make as much out 
 of stranmMs as thev can. 
 
 The fisherman's homo is not alwavs so comfortable 
 as I could wish, vet he does not alwavs seem to feel 
 titaf. lie i> used to roughing it. And, like the gip- 
 sv, he has a huiiiua^j^e of his own. On the whole, 
 his is a (pieer vocabulary. 
 
Fish and Fishcr-Folk. 
 
 ^77 
 
 Speiiking of " bnisli," lie means liis luiii*. His boots 
 are '• stompers ;" one knife is 'Mhroater," and the, 
 otliej- a '-splitter;" his apron is a "harvel," his iish- 
 l)ox is a '"kid;" his hook is a '' drai^on ;" his hand-nc^ 
 is a •• dipper," and most all small craft arc *' [)inkies," 
 or " i)o<xies," ''smacks," or '' jiL^iiers." lie counts 
 time 1)V the tide; he was married at about "slack 
 water." He reckons the length of his lines by "shots," 
 thirty fathoms to a shot ; the principal ])reparations 
 of food containing Hour or meal, are known as " fresh 
 smother," '• duif," and "jo-iloggers," while hard-bread 
 and Mpples is "grunt." Going out to lake a walk 
 forms a '• cruise," and w hen he leaves a neighbor's 
 iircbide to go home, he gets "up anchor" or " killick." 
 A breath of wind on th(3 water is a " cat's-jiaw," and 
 everything is called "she," from his wife, that is "my 
 old woman," to a cart-wheel or a clock. 
 
 The accessories of the lisherman's vocation mav 
 appear rude, but his calling is closely connected ^^ith 
 the nicest im[)ortant interest. It has also been ftdlowed 
 bv those who have invested it with a sort of dii-nitv. 
 L :st of all, the Ajiostles were chieliy fishermen, and 
 the Pope himself is not ashamed in this our own day 
 to cai-ry in his pocket the annual revenues of his eel 
 lisheries at C'omacchio. .\nd all alonir the ccMitui'ies 
 the iisherman has made himself felt. In J7."jO, the 
 Fishi]ioni>-ers' Comiianv, the oldest in the lji<di>h 
 realm, in a<ldressing the Prince of AVales, told his 
 nighness that the Comjiany liad f<rnished London 
 
i;8 
 
 Fish and Fishcr-Folk, 
 
 tlirc'C-scoro Lord Mayors. A^eiiice rose fjom a Csliin'^ 
 village, and Amsterdam was founded on herrino-bones. 
 riiipps and Pepperell were in the business, and bolli 
 were knighted. Jolni Selman and jSlcholas Bron<di- 
 ton, lAIarbleliead fisliermen, were tlie first naval com- 
 manders appointed by Wasliington, while Commodore 
 Tnelu'r, tlie fisherman, took more British guns than 
 the famous Paul Jones. Their record has always 
 been honorable, and a generous peo^jle will eyer 
 accoid them all praise. 
 
 11 
 ■Miii'i ' 
 
^M 
 
 E 
 
 ^1 
 
 ^^ 
 
 fm^ 
 
 ^sfe 
 
 sssz 
 
 TI/E ISLES OF SHOALS. 
 ciiArTi:u XI 11. 
 
 Joiix Smith — Ciiami'lain — IIisiouv of xm: Islks 
 Appli:i>oui: — Londonnku's — White Island — Si.vu 
 Smuttv-Xo.sk — liocii.wi:i:DS. 
 
 jORTSMUrTir, tho ])()iiit of (Icpartiin^ for 
 lilt; I>1l's of Shoals, is a (luuiiit oM place 
 of some lii>iori(; renown, situateil at llie 
 inontli of the PiscaLa,(|na IJivei". Frnin 
 thence, in the snnuner season, a small steamcM- nsntillv 
 makes a daily trip to the Shoals. It was onr fortune, 
 liowe\er, to sail thither in the little yacht Cflhi. As 
 the tide \\ as nnfavorahle, the Captain had left his 
 vessel at Xeweasth', about a mile hchtw, and hrou'^ht 
 uj) his yawl to take; u> down. On such a perverse 
 stream as this, the task of rowinii; is no trifle, vet afier 
 a hard >trn:n^le, in which the lidi; at times got the hest 
 of us, tuii'^ini'' at the hows of the boat like some hu'^e 
 mastilK we iiot down the harbor, passinuj on the v ay 
 mementos (jf at lea>t three wars. 
 
 Getlinj*- on board just as a heavv sliower rauK^ on, 
 blisteriu!^ the surface of the water, we at once* went 
 below, thouiih the crew i^ot the vacht under wav ; and 
 wheu the shower was over, the C'elia was out.side of 
 
i8o 
 
 The Isles of Shoals. 
 
 PortsmoLitli Liixlit. AVc were now licadiiiix directlv 
 for the '' Slioals," as the i)eo})le liere say, with AVliale 
 ]>ack Light to our left, or larboard side. This heaijon 
 lias a fixed lii^lit in a solid tower, fifty-eight feet high, 
 built upon a small rock. 
 
 Gradually Appledore rose above the waves, until it 
 seemed to float insensibly 
 
 " Like a great ship at nnclior." 
 
 As we sailed on, it became evident that we were ap- 
 ])roacliing 
 
 " A country that draws fifty foot of water, 
 Ju which men live as in the hold of nature. 
 
 * * * * * 
 
 A land that rides at anchor, and is moored, 
 In which tliey do not live but go aboard." 
 
 Or, if any one does not exactly like this future, 
 " That live as if they had been run aground," 
 
 for I should hardly care to carry out ]>utler's descrip- 
 tion of Holland any farther. Arriving off the cove 
 on the south side of Appledore, it was pleasing to fnid 
 the as[)ect of these isles so agreeable. Instead of a 
 mere heap of black, unsightly rocks as 1 had anticip'ated, 
 the C(dors were rich, cheerful and harmonious ; and, 
 beiiiLi" half covered here and there with briiiht iji'icn 
 shrubs, the effect of the islands, as a whole, when laid 
 against the bright blue slvv, was really admirable. 
 1 sliould have been alad if I could have ^aid at once 
 with Caliban, ''This island's mine." 
 
TJic Isles of Shoals, 
 
 i8r 
 
 Going ashore seemed like going out of tlio littlo 
 steam tug to get on hoard the Great Eastern. Yet 
 we soon found tlie dillerence, for instead of a reeliiiir 
 deck there was tlie solidity of terra firma. We there- 
 fore concluded that Ihitler's last suixixestion was hest, 
 and that the whole concern had run hard aground. 
 liut what is the ij^enealofjy of these isles ? 
 
 That class of writers who scorn investigaticm, and 
 seize upon the itrst i)lausible story that they can con- 
 veniently catch, have been accustomed to say that the 
 Isles of Shoals were discovered in 1G14, by Captain 
 John Smith, who drew '* the first map of this coast." 
 Now, as regards John Smith, the simple truth is, that 
 in the above-mentioned vear he came to the coast of 
 Maine, and left his vessel at Monhegan, " Wildest," 
 as he says, "the sailers lished, myselfe with eight oth- 
 ers of them might best be spared, langing the coast 
 in a small boat." In the course of this voyajie he 
 drew a map, and laid down these isles as " Smith's 
 Isles." There is not, however, a line on record to 
 prove that he ever stepped upon their shores. 
 
 Such is the claim of John Smith as the "• Discov- 
 erer" of the Isles of Shoals, so familiar to fisheimen 
 and others who had already frequented the coast f )r 
 many years. 
 
 In this connection Cliamplain must be noticed. 
 AVi:h I)e Monts, he explored this region in lGO-3, nine 
 years before Smith arrived, and made a map of the 
 c(.)abt. This is the lirst tolerable map to which we can 
 
r 
 
 182 
 
 Tlic Isles of SJioals. 
 
 refer. fiOfirarlxjt, smvs tlint tliev ''explored niaiiv 
 tliiiii:<," " vlewiiii^ all tin; eoa-^t (»f this land." and 
 '•.searehini^ to tlie hottoni ofllie liays." 
 
 ("hamplain a])jtr<»a('lied tliis part (/f tlie mast ^VFay 
 1 '>. At the east Ik^ saw three or four isles, and at I ho 
 west the mouth of a hay, that is, Portsmouth harhor, 
 whose islands he mentioned as eoNci-ecl wilh wood. He 
 Jlf.'erwards landed at Odioriie's J*<»int, which ho laid 
 down in his map and called (ape of the Isli's {I.p dip 
 (titx hies). 'I'herefore, if <'ither of these exploiers 
 should he distinguished as the discoverer of the isles, 
 tlie honor must he awarded to C'hamplain. 
 
 Ill reixard to \\\v, oriijiu of their i>resent name ^\G 
 are left in dotdjt. It has often ])eeii sai<l that it 
 superseded the name given by the founder of Vir- 
 ixinia, who called them " Smith's Isles," v(jt this is a 
 gratuitous assumption. There is nothing to pi-ove 
 that the name *' Isles of Shoals" di<l not prccdc 
 Smi'di's name. No one ever 8p(dve of ''Smith's 
 I>les," exce[)t Smith himself; whereas it is not known 
 when they were lirst called the " Isles oi' Shoals." 
 The laime was douhtless fjiven l)v some lishin!>' exne- 
 dition, on account of the schoolinu" of the iish at this 
 place, and perhaps by Sir Samuel .Vrgall, who, the 
 year [ire\ious to the arrival of Smith, Hilled in these 
 waters. 
 
 I>ut thou2:li the oriiiiii of the name mav he oh- 
 scure, there is no doubt but that they were settled at a 
 eumparatively early period. Luvett said : '' Tlie lirst 
 
■^'"■••p ' 
 
 TJic Isles of SJioals. 
 
 183 
 
 jiliico T set my footo vpon in New iMigliiiid [H't'J.'*] 
 was tlic lies of Slioulds '* * '* V|»ou tht'so Jslaiids 1 
 iieillier could see one mxul tindx-r tree, nor so much 
 <X )(>d ixround as to make a irarden." llt.» ad<ls that 
 this is good llshiiig ground 'i^^v '• G Shippos," hut not 
 more, owing to the laek of stagoroom. The fact was 
 demonstrated, he snvs, hv "this yeare's exnericnee." 
 IMms early were the New Knglanders found here. 
 
 The isles are seven in number, Iving nine miles 
 south-east of Portsmouth J.ii-ht. The line dividing 
 ^raine from New Hampshire ]iasses through them, 
 leaving Appledore, Haley's, now eidied 8mutty-nose, 
 Duck and Cedar Islands in the former State; and 
 (iosport or Star Island, AVhite and Londoner's 
 Maud in the latter. Tin; largest is Api)ledore. Star 
 Island ranks next, an<l Haley's stands third. The 
 others are hardly more than rocks. 
 
 The name of the first settler is not definitely known, 
 thouiih it mi'dit have been that Jatfrev, who, in 1()28, 
 with a ^Ir. Burslem, paid part of the expense of ar- 
 restitiir Thomas ]\Iorton, of Merrv Mount. ]\Iorton 
 himself was brought here at that time, [)revious to 
 being sent to England. 
 
 In 1G.j5 the southern half of the group was granted 
 to John IMason ; but in 1G7G the isles were occupied 
 by William Pepperell (father of Sir William) and a 
 ^Ir. Oi!)])c)ns. Thev eiiiiiiiied for a time in the fish- 
 eiies, but linallv decided to remove. 
 
 We read that the Northmen, when thev went into 
 
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1 84 
 
 The Isles of Shoals. 
 
 Iceland, were Lniidcd in llio clioice of ground for tlicir 
 colonies 1)}^ tlie liints thrown out by the seat-posts, 
 which, heinix carved with images of the i»<)ds, they threw 
 overboard when approaching the coast, to land where 
 th(; winds and waves might toss theui. ]>ut Pep[!ei(']l 
 and his associate were guided by a siniph-r suggestion. 
 'J'hey cared nothini; for Lares and Penates, and there- 
 fore each took a stick, set it on end, and allowed it to 
 fall as it would, then going to seek new stations in the 
 direction indicated by the fallen sticks. Pei)[!ereirs 
 fell to the north-west, and sent him to Kittery, while 
 Gibbons' iruided him to the AValdo l^itent. At least, 
 so savs tradition. 
 
 Jt is also stated, on somewhat better authority, 
 that Sir William's father was so poor, that for 
 some time after his arrival in this country he sought 
 a wife in vain. AVhen he became more prosperous, 
 the damsel of his choice became his wife. Their son 
 was knii»iited for his services in 170!). The title be- 
 came extinct in 1810, and it is said that those who 
 bore it actually came to want. jNIargery, a sister of 
 Sir William, was accidentally drowned near the itles. 
 
 August 14, IGoG, Richard Mather, grandfather of 
 the celebrated Cotton Mather, arrived from Ibistol, 
 Knixland, in the James, commanded bv Captain 
 Taylor. In his journal ]\Iather savs, ^^ lUit ys eve- 
 iiing by moone-light about 10 of ye clocke wee came to 
 ancrc at ye lies of Shoals, which are 7 or 8 Islands 
 and other great rockes ; and there slept sweetely 
 
The Isles of SJioals. 
 
 1 8; 
 
 vt nii:lit till breakc of (lnv< But vet vc Lord had 
 not (loiio willi us, nor vet had let us seo all his ijood- 
 r.cssc which he would have us take knowledire of; 
 therefore on Saturday morning ahout breake of <lay, 
 ve Lord sent forth a most terrible stormc of laiiie 
 and easterlv wind, wherebv wee were in as nnndi 
 danger as I thinke ever ])eople were : for we lost in 
 vt morninii three great ancres and cables; of which 
 cables, one having cost oOX nev( " had beene in any 
 water before, two were broken by ye violence of ye 
 waves, and ye third cut bv vc seamen * * to save ve 
 shij)." Theii thev set Kijl, "but ve Lord let us see vt 
 savles could not save us, * * for by ve force of vo 
 wind and rainc ve savleswere rent in sunder." Then 
 he says they began '• to drive with full force of wind 
 and rayne directly upon a mighty rocke standing out 
 in sight above ye water, so yt we did but continually 
 wayte when we should lieare and feele ye dolefull rush- 
 ing and crushing of ye ship upon ye rocke." lUit 
 hap[)ily the ship was guided past "ye rocke" and 
 escaj-ec', when new sails were bent on, and the James 
 headed in safety for Ca[)e Ann. The same stoi'm 
 cast another emigrant ship ashore at Cape Ann, 
 where twenly-one persons W'ere drowned, including 
 ]Mr. ^Mather's brother-clerirvman, Mr. Avery, from 
 AYiltshire, and his wife and six children. 
 
 About this time the trade of the isles was quite 
 flourishing, and as many as half-a-dozen ships would 
 be loading with fish for Dilbou, in Spain. The in- 
 
1 86 
 
 TJie Isles of Shoals. 
 
 li;ilMt;iiits were [joor, ])ut distingui>lie(l for genuine 
 wortli. 
 
 In 1()H), one Jolin Abbot, who b;i(l been taken 
 prisoner l)y the Indians at lilack l\)int, ninnnged to 
 esr-a^e with a i)innace of thirty tons, and came to the 
 Kh's. On a favorable occasion, wlien the Indians 
 v.ere asliore, he greased tlie mast, hoisted the sail, 
 and was soon beyond their reach. 
 
 At first the isles were left without any settled gov- 
 ernmenf, but the inconyenience became so great, that 
 in the year KJGl, ^lassuchusetts erected them into 
 !i township, one part lying in the county of Yoik and 
 the other part in that of Dover and Portsmouth, under 
 tlic iKime of " Apledoore ;" though, by asubsecpient act 
 in 1('»72, they were all placed in the jurisdiction of 
 I)()\er. The first settlement was on Appledore, then 
 known as IIou Island. The number of iidiabitants 
 at that time has always been exairjxerated. It is 
 clear that the number of dwellinixs did not exceed 
 twenty. They Iiad a small meeting-house. It is said 
 that the Rev. IMr. Hull was the first preacher, though 
 Savaixe shows that he was here not louix before his 
 death in 1GG5. The inventory of his widow states 
 that the " the Isle owed him for his ministry £20." 
 IJichard Gibson, of the Church of England, came 
 here, "entertained by the fishermen" to i)reacli to 
 them. He also, as John AVinthrop comjilains, "did 
 marry and baptize." To this he added the crime of 
 s[)eaking against the Great and General Court, saying 
 
The Isles of Skoals. 
 
 rS: 
 
 tliat tlio Shoals were not witliiii their jiii-i^-dicMon. 
 Ueiug aj)i)relieiHle(l hy the lio>toii iiuthoritic ;, he 
 aekiio\vle(l;,n'(l l)i,s guihiness (in tlieir eves), ;iii(l. 
 ''beiii<^r a stranger," was giaciously sentenced -to 
 (le;)art tlie eonntry," witlioiit any "other punishment." 
 lie h't't lor England in 1(')42. 
 
 Aj)|)hMlore was early abandoned, the peoiile remov- 
 ing to the convenient location atlbrded hy Star and 
 Haley's Island. On the latter was a hinlding il::u 
 ser\ed as a Court House, and, in 1072, eases involv- 
 ing m)t more than ten pounds could he tried here, 
 " Provided one person or more fVom the mayne do sitt; 
 and joyne with them." At the same time dues of gun- 
 powder could l)e collected of vessels enterlnir the nort, 
 which powder should he; used for "our safetv." 
 
 Two years j)revious to this time, however, the isles 
 came near losing their good name, and l)rin<dn«'- "re- 
 proach and prejudice to this colony;" for it was rejiori- 
 ed to the General Court, " that there is a ship ridiu'r 
 in a roade at the Isles of Shoals susj;ected to he a 
 pirat, and hath pirattically seized the sayM ship and 
 g )ods from some of the French nation in amity with 
 the English." The virtuous Court, therefore, thou'dit 
 fit to purge itself of all complicity with the allai;-, and 
 its resolve, to that efVect, as the record (luaintlv savs, 
 was duly " Publisht in Ijoston by beat of drume." 
 
 The jieople here were in no way implicated, and 
 yet we iind that the lirst pirates in New Eti'dand 
 originated near by, beginning their depredations in 
 
i88 
 
 The Isles of Shoals. 
 
 1G:]2, and generally keeping east of (he Shoals. They 
 were sixteen in nuniher, heiu'^ led bv Dixv liiill. 
 Peniaciuid was their lirst })rize, and there one of their 
 band was killed. The Government sent an armed 
 vessel in pursuit of them, but, on their promising to 
 abandon the trade, tlie chase was given u[). It is said 
 that they liad one rule against excessive drinking, 
 and anotlier enforcing daily prayers. Sometime 
 afterwards the Low Pirates visited the isles and 
 caused one of the lichermen to purchase his life 
 by cursing the renowned Cotton Mather three 
 times. They luited the Reverend gentleman not 
 without cause, for he really seemed to enjoy preach- 
 ing a sermon at the execution of one of their pro- 
 fession. 
 
 December 24, 1715, the present town of Gosport 
 was erected by the authorities of New Hampshire, 
 the old jurisdiction of " Apledoore " having become 
 e:rete. In 1728 Gosport's proportion of the tax of 
 one thousand pounds was sixteen pounds four shil- 
 lings. 
 
 The present records go back no farther than the 
 year 17^30, but they contain much interesting informa- 
 tion both of a civil and ecclesiastical nature. 
 
 It ai)pears that in the year 1G47, it was contrary to 
 the orders of the General Court for a woman to live 
 on the isles, aiul a man was complained of for bring- 
 ing over some goats and hogs, together with his wife. 
 The hogs preyed upon the fish which was being cured, 
 
Tlie Isles of SJioals, 
 
 189 
 
 but tlic crime of the poor woiniui is not montioned. 
 To the credit of the judges we must add, tliat wlule 
 tlie porkers were Ixinished tlie isles, tlie man was 
 allowed to enjoy the companionship r^ his wife. 
 The minister from IGol to IGGo was the Ilev. John 
 Brock, a graduate of Harvard College, who appears 
 to have been a man of ijreat excellence. Cotton 
 Mather tells a i^ood story about him in his MaqnaVm. 
 lie says that a lisherman who had been very useful in 
 ferrying the people to church on Sundays, finally lost 
 his boat in a storm. The good parson, hi^aring him 
 lament the fact, said, " Go home contented, good Sir, 
 I'll mention tJie matter to tlie Lord; to-morrow you 
 may exi)ect to find your boat." And the account says 
 that the next day it was actually restored to him, 
 liaving been brought np from the bottom on the flukes 
 of an anchor. Mr. Brock was succeeded by a Mr. 
 Belcher. Afterwards the Ivev. Joshua ^Moody took 
 the clerical duties, and served from 170G to \lo\. 
 
 The Rev. John Tucke was the minister from 17o2 
 until 1773. At first his salary was one hun<lred and 
 ten '• pounds money or bills of credit," to which was 
 added live [)ounds towards a house. He accepted the 
 otlice April 28, and July 2G following was observed 
 by the iidiabitants as a day of fasting and prayer for 
 a blessiiiiT on his ministry. In \1')V his salary was 
 one quintal of "merchantable fish" to each man, and 
 his })arishioners numbering nearly one hundred, his 
 stipend, for those days, was quite valuable. Two 
 
190 
 
 The Isles of Shoals. 
 
 years later lie hail lii.s eliDicf; between wailini,^ for liis 
 money or taking liis salary in " weanter lisli." Lilxe 
 a wise man lie took the fish, holdin:; that a bird in the 
 hand was worth two in the l)u.sh. 
 
 ]>y d(>grees, owing to their attaehment to strong 
 drinlv. tlu^ ])eo})lo lost the high character which tlu-y 
 so long bore. When the Kevolutionary war broke 
 ont, the most of the inhabitants removed to the main- 
 land, for the reason that the })lace became the rende/:- 
 vons of r>ritish crnisers. From the close of the war 
 to the year 1800, those left lu^re only had occasional 
 preachinix bv the Key. Jeremiah Shaw. In 171)0, so 
 indifferent was the tone of feeling, that, as the records 
 say, " Some of the peo})le of the baser sort pnlled 
 down and burnt the meeting honse." The writer 
 who records the act contiiines : ''The special jndg- 
 xnent of heaven seems to have followed this piece of 
 wickedness to those concerned in it, who seem since 
 to have been given np to work all manner of wicked- 
 ue;- . with liTcediness." 
 
 Eventnally the people of Massachusetts built them 
 a meeting house with stone walls, on Star Island, .'ent 
 them a teacher, besides food and clothing, and in 
 return received from the inhabitants a ])romise of 
 reformation. The Kev. Jedidiah Morse preached the 
 opening sermon from Ps. 118 : 25. 
 
 The teacher of " these unfortunate people," as the 
 Portsmouth Star called them at the time, was a Mr. 
 Stevens, who was also their spiritual director and the 
 
■JW""" 
 
 I wvv'r'w'jri ■ f p* piwinw)'- 
 
 TJie Isles of Shoals. 
 
 191 
 
 i 
 
 f 
 
 r. 
 
 Justice of the Peace. He died 011 Star I>land \\\ 
 1804. 
 
 Caleb Chase, of Xewbiiryport, came to tlie isles to 
 teach school in 1811). S[)<.'aking of liiinself in tlie 
 book of record he says, tliat " He endeavored to ascci- 
 tain tlie ages of the people generally, but many of tlicni 
 had lost their ages for the want of a record." AI..0 
 that " When he came to the isles there were on S:ai- 
 Island eleven families and two solitaires, iifty-two 
 souls. On Smutty-nose live families and one solitary, 
 twenty-six souls, and on Hog Island one family, eight 
 souls ; in all, eighty-six souls." 
 
 The Rev. Samuel Sewell arrived on a '• mission," 
 in September, 1824, and found fourteen families and 
 one ''solitary" on Star Island, in all sixty-nine per- 
 sons. In 1832 the i)opulation had increased to niiietv- 
 nine. From 1804 to 1845 no town meetinir was held. 
 Since that period the improvement has been steady, 
 and all the social, political and religious interest culti- 
 vated on the mainland are attended to here. 
 
 But while 1 have digressed in giving this historical 
 sketch, the result of much labor, my friends have been 
 kept waiting at the landing, where there is no whaif, 
 but a long inclined plane built of plank, descending 
 under the water, and accommodatini>- itself to e\erv 
 state of the tide. Close by are the boat-houses, and 
 fartlier on, to the left, is the private residence of the 
 Leighton Brothers. Across the lawn stands the hotel, 
 an enormous building that has twice duplicated its 
 
192 The Isles of Shoals. 
 
 capacity, and now, surmounted by its Inigc ob.^erva- 
 tory, appears in the distance like some old baronial 
 castle fidl of quadrangular nooks. We })erceive at a 
 glance that: there are no more trees on the island than 
 there were in 1G21, when Levett landed, yet there; is 
 a broad, generous piazza, nearly three hundred feet 
 long, having at the end a higli platform large enough 
 for a ball-room, completely roofed in, but open at 
 three sides, and commanding a view of the ocean, 
 both north and south. We hardly miss the trees, as 
 the air is so cool, even rivaling in this respect the 
 atm9S[)here of Homer's Atlantis. In leaving the 
 mainland there is a complete change, and a fortnight 
 spent hei-e will afford the benefits of an ocean voyage, 
 wholly separated from its often disagreeable experi- 
 ence. In winter also the climate is superior to that 
 of the mainland. Mr. Tucke used to say that in this 
 season the isles were " a thin underwaistcoat warmer" 
 than in the corresponding latitude ashore. 
 
 From a careful examination of Appledore, it ap- 
 pears as if the sea once separated it into two islands. 
 A valley terminating in coves at each end runs across 
 it. The southern part is the highest, standing as it 
 does ninety feet above the level of the sea. The 
 northern half accommodates the hotel, which is in the 
 little valley somewhat sheltered from the easterly 
 winter gales. 
 
 Ascending to the lofty observatory, which affords a 
 splendid outlook, the uneven, rumpled character of 
 
The Isles of Shoals. 193 
 
 tliis and the neighboring isles becomes apparent. Since 
 the rocks rose from tlie bosom of tlie sea, there have 
 been many convnlsions, and earthqnakes have oi)ened 
 broad seams wliicli were iilled by tlie mollen trap 
 Ix'iliDg np like lava from ],eloNV. There is a great 
 deal of interest here, and it is to be i-egretted tha" the 
 State Geologists made such a farce of their survey. 
 Ir appeai-s that they came out to the isles in the rev- 
 enue cutter one windy day, landed at two or tln-ee 
 points, concluded that there was consideral)le surf 
 running, and then went home again, taking along with 
 them a couple of those barbarous sketches which dis- 
 figure so many oificial reports. In these sketches 
 Gosport and White Island would find it impossible to 
 recognize themselves. 
 
 Appledore is just half a nautical mile long and 
 about three-eighths of a mile wide in its broadest or 
 southern part. The walk around it, however it may 
 seem, scarcely exceeds a mile and a half. It is quite 
 fatiguing, but it repays the labor. Here there are 
 none of those tremendous cliffs which at Mount De- 
 sert look down upon the sea, and therefore the bold 
 rocky shore may be always followed. In part there 
 is very hard scrambling, by reason of the broad rifts 
 in the granite and gneiss of which the island is com- 
 posed. The most of these are still paved with dark 
 trap-rock that was originally level with the surface. 
 The peculiar structure of this rock causes it to yield 
 easily to the force of the waves, and thus lonir calle- 
 
 . 
 
194 
 
 The Isles of S/ioals, 
 
 rios aro foiniod in tlie gi-anitc from ji distance ajipear- 
 iii<j like the uork of man. In sailin<r around tlii! isles 
 this fcaturi; is very noticeable, as tlu; galleries run in 
 Bonie distance at iii»lit angles with the heacli. 
 
 We hc'^m our tour at the north side. On our way 
 thither wc passed the monument of the late |)r<)})rietor 
 whose giav(; is near by. This is a plain memorial 
 fixed iirndy in the rock. 
 
 ]\rr. Laighton was a somewhat ]iecuHar character. 
 At one time he took ])art in 2sew Hampshire })olitics. 
 lie aflerv ards }»ecame dissatisfied with the main, and 
 took charge of Wliite Island Light, where he lived 
 for six vears. AVhen attention beijan to be turned to 
 the isles, he built a small hotel on Ap})ledore for the 
 accommodation of visitors. This hotel has kej)t pace 
 in its growth with tlie fame of the isles, which has 
 spread all over the Union. For the last twenty- 
 five years of his life Mr. Laighton never once visited 
 the l)usy woild over the waves. Here he dv.elt by 
 himself, occupying the position of Lord of the Isles, 
 and when he died his remains fitlv fLvjid a restinij- 
 place within the sound of the sea which he loved so 
 well. 
 
 Arrivinii" at the cove we noticed a couple of fisher- 
 men catching jierch, using rods, as for trout, notwith- 
 standing the waves were rolling in, booming and 
 blanching, as Tennyson has it, on the rocks. 
 
 Turning westward, we came to what is called tiie 
 Greek Cross, formed by two immense channels in the 
 
Lte 
 
 The Isles of Shoals. lo; 
 
 rock intoisoctin.nr at nVlit nn-Ir^s. (),:o ,va. formcrlv 
 fill<'<I will, a poor nictaiiiorpliic slate, and tlio olhcr u iii, 
 trap. Hoih liavc Ikm-ii vaUiw out hy tlic >v,\. 'JI„. 
 evideiKM^ of volraiiic articM. is hen.^ vc'rv vi>il,l,.. L,,„u- 
 affor iluM,- orio-inal formation, tlic is](s w,.,,. tinio 
 MftcT tinu' rent in twain. It n.ay l.c (lillicult to roali/.- 
 tlic fact, yet the time luis been when the waves of 
 liquid lire. Inirstinu- up fnmi tile crn-at molten sra 
 below, vi.'d in tlieir wrath with the ocean wave, while 
 the brine-washed rock hissed at the liery sprav. And 
 ^vilI this occur arrain ? AVhittier tells us that when 
 
 " Goody Cole looked out from her door, 
 The Isles of Shoals were drowned and gone." 
 
 This may some day take place in earnest ; for we do 
 not know whether the earih.puike shocks that hav(! 
 been felt on an average once in ten years at a sin-h; 
 spot on yonder main es^r since the country was 
 settled, are the dying growls of a tempest tliat is past. 
 or the mutterings of a storm to come. At any i-at.- 
 let not the proprietors suppose that I am in league 
 with those speculators ulio would fain buy this ish^ 
 
 Clambering along among the rocks, we found a 
 broad gulch that might be used as a dry dock. Fr.;m 
 this point may be had a view of Duck"^ Island with a 
 single old building on it, and lying north-east, distant 
 exactly three-fourths of a nautical mile. Northward, in 
 Maine, is Agamenticus. Westward is Hampton IJeach. 
 and Po Hill, which hides Whittiers home. Close to 
 
196 
 
 The Isles of Shoals. 
 
 the sliore the ledges are everywhere very fine. We 
 returned hy the sliingle becach on the south shore, 
 having made the circuit of Iialf the island. 
 
 It was some time before sunset that we set out to 
 explore the remaining and more interesting portion of 
 Apjdcdore, which is separated from the rest by a 
 stone wall. Passing through a gate, we came upon a 
 flock of sheep, who stared at us for a minute, and 
 then, following their leader, ran. Taking the west 
 side of the island, we walked among the sheep-paths 
 until we reached the ruins of the old settlement. 
 Nothing is left but cellar walls, and the whole vicin- 
 age is covered with elderberry bushes, upon which 
 was fruit enough to make hogsheads of wine. Occa- 
 sionally the ground had a dark rich hue, and here and 
 there something was still left to indicate that " once a 
 garden smiled." The single unoccupied house is of a 
 modern origin, and, standing and uncared for and 
 alone, it looks as if haunted. 
 
 The reason why this spot was so soon deserted is 
 clear. Tlie fishermen had no beach for their boats. 
 The only place to land was in a chasm about twenty- 
 five feet wide with perpendicular \\ix\h, formed by the 
 disintegration of the trap-rock. This was of course 
 insulfic'ent, and accordingly they sor<ght the shelter of 
 Star and 1 1 ale v. 
 
 Farther eastward another earth(|uake record is 
 found in what has been called Neptune's Gallery, 
 with perpendicular scarred walls, high and far apart, 
 
 :i 
 
TJie Isles of Shoals. 
 
 197 
 
 between which the breakers roll in with a sound that 
 is well nigh dealeniiig. xS'ear this ponit the rocks are 
 high and bold. Farther on, around the point, a cove 
 makes into the shore, the rocks bcinij raijfmHl and dis- 
 jointed, and piled up in the greatest confusion. Uc- 
 turning thence, we crossed the centre of the island 
 and ap[)roached the cairn, wliich we had understood 
 was Smith's ^ronument, lately erected to his memory. 
 This cairn is about ten feet high, bulging at one side, 
 and seeminj; to incline like " Pisa's lea'-dnu: miracle." 
 Determined to do the great adventurer homage, I 
 shoiddered a good-sized fragment of granite, and 
 staggered towards the cairn, while Amarinta followed 
 by my side, bearing a tribute of more delicate i)ropor- 
 tions. These were reverently added to the pih; ; and, 
 mens conscia recti, that is to say, ha})py in the dehision 
 of a duty well done, we sat down by the cairn and 
 spoke of the great man's worth. While here the 
 day came to an end, the western clouds, ''ministering 
 with ij^lorious faces to the settin«i sun." At the same 
 time full-orbed Luna ap[)eared in the east, ])lushing 
 as from our praise of her loveliness. This meeting 
 of Day and ^.'ight was as if Ivighteousness and Peace 
 had kissed each other. 
 
 Gradually the splendor of sunset died away, and 
 the dark blue sky at the west shading oil" at the 
 horiz(Ui into deep purple, which threw the inky tones 
 of se[)ia u[)on the waves ; while eastward, recovering 
 from the embarrassment that attended her lirst appear- 
 
iqS 
 
 TJie Isles of Shoals. 
 
 aiice, tlie moon looked calmly across the silvery track 
 foruacd by her own briMit l)eaiiis in the shimmeriiiiZ 
 sea. AVhen the moon lose hii;hei*, sendiiiii; lances of 
 light down the western slope of the island into the 
 ove and ont across towards the main, the scei.e 
 cliaiiiicd a<xain,and where before all was indistiiiiiui.sh- 
 abl(.' in tlni twiliijjht's liloom, the boats and vaclits 
 came ont with a fairv-like aspect, rocking on th(; tide, 
 nhih; the voices of excursionists bound fn' a maon- 
 liiiht sail were borne to us on the evening air. 
 
 On retui-ning to the Api)ledore House we were 
 quite sho(dved to learn that our respect for ("a[)taiu 
 John Smith had been quite thrown away. In fact 
 it ap[)eared that this was not the monument which 
 had been erected to his memorv, but one that, accord- 
 iiig to tradition, was huilt by him. 1 was (piiie con- 
 fused at first on discoveriuii- mv mistake, but I soon 
 rallied and repaid mv informant tenfdd. l)v letting 
 liim know, as already stated, that nothing exists to 
 indicate that Smith ever stepped upon these isles. 1 
 cruelly f jlhjwed this up the next day by ferreting out 
 nninqjeachable testimony which proves that the cairn 
 was erected oidy about seventy years ago as a mark 
 for lishermen in iindin<i the beariuij of their lishinu 
 grounds. 
 
 Boating at the Isles of Shoals is a favorite amuse- 
 ment. One pleasant day we rowed to a number of 
 dirt'erent points. Our lirst harbor was Londonner's or 
 Lounging Island, a rocky spot three-fourths of u 
 
TJic Isles of SJtoals, 
 
 199 
 
 nautical mile soutli-wost from tlie cove at Aj)|)l«'(l()re. 
 The iiortli and south halves v>t" tins island, w hich is 
 three-sixteenths of a mile louiji:, are connected l>v a 
 narrow neck often covered at hi<di tide, the nu'an lisc 
 and fall of which is ei<dit feet six inches. Knterinir 
 the cove on the east side, we found the llihernian 
 fisherman, who dw* lis here, out in a boat catchinijf 
 perch with which to bait his trawls for cod. lie toM 
 what he knew about his craft, after which we put 
 into one of those convenient docks fornu'd by the 
 erosion of trap dykes, and wen ashore. The Hiber- 
 nian in ([uestion can say with Caliban, "This island's 
 nnne.*' lie seemed a sort of Caliban himself. an<l his 
 boys voun«j Cidibans. A battered wooden cottaijo 
 takes the i)lace of a cave, but I found no enchanter. 
 It appears to have had as hard usa<^e as its owner. A 
 lish-like odor pervaded the air, a g(»at was i)ayinix atten- 
 tion to the moss on the rocks, while some chickens 
 and ducks were i)ickinij uj) a living around the door. 
 AVe looked into the fish-house, and hurried awav, 
 quite satisfied with what we saw. 
 
 Three-fourths of a mile eastward is the lu^ad of 
 While Island. This island is nearly one-fourth of a 
 mile long, and about one-sixteenth of a mil<! wide. 
 Here stands the light-house. From this point Ports- 
 mouth Lii»ht bears nearly north n(»rth-west; lioon 
 Island, distant ninetei'U and a half miles, l)ears 
 north-east by north, three-fourths east; and Hvo 
 i\Iceting-lu)use, nine miles distant, north-west by west, 
 
200 
 
 The Isles of Shoals. 
 
 oiio-half west. The Head is separated from the rest 
 of the island at \\\A\. tide. 
 
 Towards this spot we now turned the prow, escorted 
 by a lad who volunteered to serve as pilot. AVhen we 
 approached the landing at the liglit-house, he told us 
 that he had never been ashore, and he now thouirht 
 there was too much surf, lie acjordiuixly ba(;ked his 
 boat off, and we rowed in to reconnoitre. While con- 
 sidering the subject, tiie Light Keeper, who was on 
 the main rock, seeing our situation, came down to the 
 little bar where the surf was breaking, and, watching 
 liis chance, ran through the water and came opposite 
 to us. Then when a convenient wave rolled in, we 
 rushed the boat head on to the beach, the keeper run- 
 ning in to catch her bows. Our venture was success- 
 ful, but before the windlass could be put in motion to 
 haul the boat up the ways, a second wave, to the great 
 consternation of Amarinta, swashed in over the stern 
 II fidl barrel of brine, causing a precipitate retreat 
 over tlie thwarts to the bows. Finally the windlass, 
 planted high up the beach, Was at work, and the boat 
 was drawn u^) out of the surf. The keeper then led the 
 way to the top i>f the light- house, situated on the 
 highest point of the rock, and reached by a covered 
 bridge. This is a Fi'esnell light. Its peculiarity is 
 that it has a single burner inclosed in a sort of crvstal 
 l>ala('e, formed of heavy glass blinds, through which 
 the light passes. At a distance this light shows a 
 great power, though when viewed close at hand, it 
 
 T 
 
The Isles oj Shoals, 
 
 201 
 
 attracts but little attention. The entire arrancremcnt 
 was imported fm.n France. The first-class lenses cost 
 about ten thousand dollars. Fresnell, the inventor, 
 has now revolutionized the whole light-house system! 
 and conferred a vast benefit upon mankind. This is a 
 flash light, made to give out alternate flashes of red 
 and white, at fifteen seconds each. This lantern has 
 one curious ef!ect. Standing by its side, eighty-seven 
 feet above the water, in a pleasant day it will l)e 
 found that it gathers up in its mighty focal grasp the 
 objects on Star Island, and sets them down again out 
 at sea. There, for instance, is the meeting-house 
 ^vhich stands upon Star Island, planted firmly^jn the 
 uneasy waves, just as far out in the opposite direction. 
 The keeper lives here alone with his assistatit, 
 maintaining bachelors' hall. In the summer they 
 have a good many visitors, but at other times it is 
 quiet enough ; at least, so they say. 
 
 xVnd while here I was reminded of a poem that ap- 
 peared in the Allantic from the pen of Mrs. Thaxter, 
 who.8 father had charge of the light. It alludes t.j 
 the wreck of the Brig Pochahontas, lost on the neigh- 
 boring shore. 
 
 Some persons might suppose that this barren rock 
 would prove the last place in which to woo the Muses, 
 yet in all such localities hopeful and receptive mind,- 
 are not slow in discovering both benefits and beaut ie.. 
 Alexander Smith, wandering for a summer in the 
 rocky island of Skye, almost imagined himself in 
 
202 The Isles of Shoals. 
 
 Paradise. Tliis is in accordance with the remark of 
 Goethe : " Let no one say that the reality lacks poeti- 
 cal interest." It is both the custom and the right of a 
 class of minds to see everywhere what they i)lcase ; for 
 there are really no asymptotes in nature. Extremes 
 always meel, barrcui\ess itself running into beauty. 
 It demands no strain upon the imagination in order to 
 discover rare attractions among these isles, especially in 
 the autumn, when the brightest coloring is found, and 
 when from a distance the;' flash in the blue sea like 
 some Imge crystal of iridescent Labrador spar. But 
 we were speaking of the poem. Its merit alone would 
 certainly justify its appearance here, while, as the pro- 
 ductioii of what we may call a resident, its insertion 
 is on the whole demanded : 
 
 '• I lit the lamps in the lighthouse tower, 
 
 For the sun dropped down and tJio day was dead ; 
 They shone like a glorious clustered flower, 
 Ten golden and five red. 
 
 Looking across, where the line of coast 
 Stretched darkly, shrinking away from the sea, 
 
 The lights sprang out at its C(lge,-alraost 
 They seemed to answer me. 
 
 O warning lights, burn bright and clear, 
 Hither the storm comes ! Leagues away 
 
 It moans and thunders low and drear,— 
 Burn till the break of day ! 
 
 Good night ! I called to the gulls that sailed 
 
 «low past me through the evening sky; 
 And my comrades, answering shrilly, liailod 
 
 AIo back Avith boding cry. 
 
. The Isles of Shoals, 
 
 A mournful breeze be^an to blow, 
 
 Weird music it drew throu<?li the iron burs, 
 
 The sullen billows boiled below, 
 And dimly peered the stars; 
 
 The sails that flecked the ocean floor 
 From east to west leaned low and fled; 
 
 They knew w hat came in the distant roar 
 That tilled the air with dread! 
 
 Flunj? by a fltlul gust, there beat 
 Against the window a dash of rain: 
 
 Steady as tramp of marching feet 
 Strode on the hurricane. 
 
 It emote the waves for a moment still, 
 
 Level and deadly white for fear; 
 The bare rock shuddered,— an awful thrill 
 
 Shook even my tower of cheer. 
 
 Like all the demons loosed at last. 
 
 Whistling and shrieking, wild and wide, 
 
 The mad wind raged, and strong and fast 
 lloUed in the rising tide. 
 
 And soon in ponderous showers the spray, 
 Struck from the granite, reared and sprung, 
 
 And clutched at tower and cottage gray. 
 Where ovei whelmed they clung 
 
 Half drowning, to the naked rock; 
 
 But still burned on the laithful light, 
 Isor laltered at the tempest's shock, 
 
 Through all the fearful night. 
 
 Was it in vain? That knew not wo. 
 
 Wo seemed, in that confusion vast 
 Of rushing wind and roaring sea. 
 
 One point whereon was cast 
 
 The whole Atlantic's weight of brine. 
 
 Heaven help the ship should drift our way! 
 Jfo matter how the light might shiuo 
 
 Far ou into the day. 
 
 20 
 
 .• 
 
f 
 
 204 The Isles of Shoals. ' 
 
 When morninpr dawned above flio din 
 
 Of gale and breaker boomed a gun ' 
 Anothorl H'e, who sat within, 
 Answered with cries each one. 
 
 Jnfo cacli otiier's eyes with fear 
 
 We Joolved, throu-h helpless tears, ae etlU. 
 One after one, near and more near, 
 
 The signals pealed, until 
 
 The tJiick storm seemed to break apart 
 
 lo show us, staggering to her grave, 
 Tlie fated brig. We had no heart 
 
 To look, for naught could save. 
 
 One glimpse of black hull l.eaving slow 
 
 Then closed the mists o'er canvas torn 
 And tangled ropes, swept to and fro 
 
 Irora masts that raked forlorn. 
 
 Weeks after, yet ringed round with spray. 
 
 Our island lay, and none might land; 
 1 hough blue the waters of the bay 
 
 Stretched calm on eitlier hand. 
 
 And when at last from the distant sliore 
 
 A little boat stole out, to reach 
 Our loneliness, and bring once more 
 
 Fresh human thought and speech. 
 
 Wo told our tale, and the boatmen cried: • 
 1 wa« the l'ocahontas,-alJ were lost ! 
 • -Formilcs along the coast the tide 
 Uer shattered timbers tost.' 
 
 Then I looked the whole horizon round.^ 
 
 So beautiful the ocean spread 
 About us. o'er those sailore drowned 1 
 
 'Father in heaven,' I said, 
 
 A child's grief struggling iu my breast, 
 
 Oo purposely thy creatures meet 
 Such bitter death ? How was it best 
 1 heso hearts should cease to beat ? 
 
I 
 
 J 
 
 . The Isles of Shoals, 205 
 
 * O wherefore ! Are wo naught to thoo? 
 
 Like sen.selesp weeds that rise aud fall 
 Upon thine an ful 8oa, are we 
 
 Jio more then, after all?' 
 
 And I sliut the beauty from my sight, 
 For I thought of the dead that lay below, 
 
 From the bright air faded the warmth and light, 
 There came a chill like snow. 
 
 Then 1 heard the far-off rote resound, 
 Where the breakers slow and slumberous rolled, 
 
 And a subtle scuse of Thought profound 
 Touched mo with power untold. 
 
 And like a voice eternal spake, 
 That wondrous rhythm, and ' Peace, be still!' 
 
 It murmured; ♦ bow thy head, and take 
 Lite's rapture and life's ill, 
 
 And wait. At last all shall bo clear.' 
 
 The long, low, mellow music rose 
 And fell, and soothed my dreaming ear 
 
 With intlnito repose. 
 
 Sighing, I climbed the lighthouse stair, 
 
 Half forgetting my grief and pain; 
 And while the day died, sweet and lair, 
 
 I lit the lamps again." 
 
 On leaving the island we had to watch our chance, 
 notwithstanding it was such pleasant weather. First 
 the Assistant got off iu a little boat to pick us up in 
 case of a mishap. This was very easily done, as he 
 was used to it, and then we ran our boat down and 
 put Amarinta in, protesting, and declaring that it 
 would never do. The right minute came, we shoved 
 out on the undertow, sprang to the oars, and were 
 safe. Getting off at a convenient distance, we find 
 
206 
 
 The Isles of Shoals, 
 
 that the Iiead on wliid, the liglitliouse stands is a voiy 
 beautiful ohjcct, and, witli a iisliing-sniack thnnvn in, 
 wouki, make a line [)icture. 
 
 Our course was next shaped for Star Island or 
 Gos])ort, the western cove of which is thirteen-six- 
 teenths of a mile from the lighthouse. There is no 
 wharf and never has been here, though in 17GG the 
 people petilioned for the privilege of getting up a lot- 
 tery to build one. At low water it is dillicult to get 
 ashore, but there is no trouble generally on account 
 of the surf. ]iy making a bridge of skiffs we reached 
 the sandy beach with dry shoes. 
 
 Gosport is five-eightlis of a mile long and one half 
 a mile wide, presenting the most perfect picture of a 
 fisherman's village that I have seen on the ^'ew-En^r. 
 land coast, teaching the shore, we of conrse came hi 
 contact with the fish, and exi)erienced the -pungent 
 odor of o'erboiling tar," so that, with old Ben Jon- 
 son, one would fain '' sacrifice two-pence worth of 
 juniper " to appease his offended nose. The children 
 were in force, there being a due proportion of girls 
 and boys, and among the latter, perhaps, some little 
 Enoch Arden. Here they played 
 
 " Among the M-astc and lumber of f lie shore, 
 Hard coils of cordaj^o, swarthy tishin;?-uets, 
 Anchors of rusty fluke, and boats updrawn'; 
 And built their castles of dissolving sand." 
 
 We made our way through all this customary 
 debris, to which was now added the charred remains 
 
 
The Isles of Shoals, 207 
 
 of a recent fire tluit destroyed a imiiiber of l)uildiiiirs, 
 and reached tlie narrow way that answered fnr^a' 
 street, in winch "twa wlieelharrows trend)le wlion 
 they meet." Thence we fared forth, like .lOneas at 
 Cartha-e, to exph.re the stranger clime, and find what 
 land this might he, and hy wliat inhahitants possessed. 
 To accomplish this the more intelligently, we repaired 
 at once to the house of the worthy and ohliging Town 
 Clerk, who brought out the records and put us in 
 immediate connection with l)oth the present and the 
 past, adding various comments at the same time on 
 men and things. Much of what lias already been 
 given of the history of Gosport was drawn from this 
 valuable repository, which brainless visitors of these 
 latter days have sought to render still more precious, 
 by entrusting to its keeping their autographs, with 
 remarks. 
 
 Having taken numerous notes, we threaded our 
 way to the old meeting-house, concerning which the 
 records have considerable to say. We found the 
 minister there, with his coat oflT, trowel in hand, and 
 hard at work making repairs. AVe bade him irood 
 morrow, and made bold to say that we hoped he 
 was not daubing with " untempered mortar;" which 
 he trowed not, as it was Roman cement. Thus easily 
 we made one another's acquaintance, after which ho 
 swung open the door and invited us to enter, showing 
 at the same time the new floor which he had laid down, 
 the seats he had refitted, and the neat chairs that he had 
 
208 The Isles of Shoals, 
 
 madi! for tlie pulpit, nil of which showod tliat, like the 
 great raiil, ho could labor with his own hands. This 
 good and worthy man came here oriirinallv for the 
 henelit of his lu'jdth, and has since remained for the 
 most of the time, servin<,^ the islanders, not only as 
 their minister, hut as physician, general adviser and 
 friend. 'I'he structun; is a quaint one. The tip of 
 the spire is forty-two feet from the ground, and may 
 be seen at a distance of twenty-live miles. The build- 
 ing is ricldy in keeping with everything on the island. 
 Its little bell hanging in the belfry calls the children 
 to school and the peoj)le to church, though the school 
 is now held in a se[)arate building. The weathercock 
 is also worth noticing. When put up, an entiy was 
 made in the records, noting that the people found it 
 expensive, and adding the pious, and slightly poetical, 
 remark : '• May their own hearts yield to the breath- 
 ings of the Divine Spirit as that vane does to the 
 ■winds." 
 
 Leaving this venerable place we went southward 
 and found a little burial-ground in a dej)ressi()n of the 
 rocks. It ha'l been prepared with much labor and 
 pious care. The earth had evidently been collected 
 with dilliculty, as is the case almost everywhere ou 
 the isles. Yet there appears to be no disposition to 
 hew out sepulchres in the rocks. Perhaps they ap- 
 prove the sentiment of that prelate who said with his 
 last breath, *• Bury me in the sunshine ;" still many 
 of the fishermen never need a tomb, as they suffer 
 hydriotaphia in the sea. 
 
•ynmmm 
 
 It 
 
 T/u- Is/rs of S/imi/s. 20cj 
 
 JoIimS,,,,,!,. This ,i„u. „.,. f,.!,, s,„.„ of o,„. J,.,„|. 
 tiMmgh u|,at M,a,l,. „s s„ |,„si,iv,. „,„ „,.t ll„. i„.,Ti|,. 
 '"";. wl,i,.|, i„ ,1„ „.,,,i„. ,i.,,t „,^ ^„„|,, ,^^^^.,1^. 
 
 '^r''''''"'"'' '"" '' "■••'« "'■J^- ' (■'•'"" 11.0 llir,., l„.,,,ls nn- 
 
 innj? Ilm ..,,nK.,-.s of ,1,,. ...,,iu,l ,,r , ,,i,u,,.,lar ,n,.rl,L 
 
 c..lu„uul,af, n.s,,.,l oM .-t |H.,l..sh,l of ,^.,oiss ; fo,. ,|i,| not 
 t^^ipl.i". .T<.Iiii S,„i,l, -.Tlicvo fl,m. 'I'niks of tlioi,. on 
 ^Mal n,.pe„,l,..,..s on one occasion in sin.^Ic con.l.at? 
 At least ho s„p/,o.sc,/ ll,at l,c ,11,1. an,l to .-onnncn.oratc 
 .Jo ovcn^ „an,,.,l ,ln-cc islan,ls off Capo Ann the Tln.o 
 J.".'ks I[,.a,ls. Tl,.,. na.no ,li,l not s.l,.k, l,„t 1,!, a,l. 
 """■«<i-s l,av,. co„,e to tl.o ro.scno. an,l fri.-kcl ont tl.o 
 story ,n .s,,li,l n.aPl.lo. It is to l.c hope] that tI,o storv 
 of tlmt a,I^xM,t,„.o is not cjnito so a,,oc,yphal as hi^ 
 d..scovo,.y of those i.Ies. StiU, since the iconoclast 
 l.as .■ol,be,l ns of the r„„,antio story of Pocahontas, wo 
 mnst receive it with care. 
 
 From tho general appearance of this monnment we • 
 nii.y It iniasino that a committee of the subjects of the 
 i>uM,me Porte had conspircl to make onr I'lero ri,licu- 
 lous, ont of revenge for the slaughter inflicfcl upon 
 their ancestors ; yet instea,! of being the work of three 
 vi.ahctivo Turks, it appears to have originate,! from 
 an wjual number of ]'osp,.ctable Christians. To saxo 
 the yisitoi- from tho jmrgatorial tusk of docinheri.,,. 
 Ao msc,-ip,ions, I will p„t thorn into legible print! 
 Un one side we read : 
 
 " John Smith was born at AVilloughby, Linconshire, 
 
2IO TJlc Isles of Shoals. 
 
 4 
 
 EiiglaiHl, in ir>70, and (lied ill London in IGol, nged 
 52 years, lie was Oovornor of Virijinia, and snbse- 
 qut'iitly Admiral of New England. Those Isles [im'''] 
 properly called Smith's Isles, were discovered by liim 
 in April, 1G14, while with eight others, in an open 
 boat, he was exploring the coast from Penobscot to 
 Cape Cod." 
 
 On another we are told that, 
 
 " Capt. John Smith was one of 'nature's noblemen.* 
 In his generosity toward the public he almost forgot 
 himself; those who knew him best loved him most, 
 and say of him : ' In all his proceedings he made 
 virtue his first guide, and experience his second ; 
 despising baseness, sloth, pride, and indignity, more 
 than any dangers ; he would never allow more for 
 himself than for his soldiers, and to no danger would 
 he expose them which he would not share himself. 
 lie would never see any in want of what he had, or 
 could get for them ; he would rather want than bor- 
 row, or starve than not pay ; he loved action more 
 than words, and hated covetousness and falsehood 
 more than death ; his adventures were for their lives, 
 and his loss was their deaths.' " 
 
 The third face testifies, 
 
 *' In reward of Ids valor, the Prince of Transylvania 
 presented to Captain John Smith his picture set in 
 gold, gave him a pension of 300 ducats, and granted 
 him a coat-of-arms bearing three Turks' heads in a 
 shield with the motto : ' Yincere est vivere.' In 1G27, 
 
The Isles of Shoals. 
 
 2\ I 
 
 ngcd 
 
 [im'O 
 
 y him 
 
 open 
 
 30t to 
 
 n 
 
 emen. 
 
 forgot 
 most, 
 made 
 
 ecoiid ; 
 
 , more 
 
 pre for 
 would 
 
 Himself. 
 :id, or 
 bor- 
 more 
 ehood 
 L- lives, 
 
 Ivaiiia 
 set ill 
 ranted 
 
 Is in a 
 1G27, 
 
 vSmitli savs : ' T have spent live years aud more than 
 i'A)0 ])ouiids in tlie service of Virij^inia and New Kiiu- 
 land, hut in neither liave I one foot of land, nor the 
 verv house I built witli my own hands, and am com- 
 Iielhid to see those countries shared before me among 
 those wlio knew tliem only l)V my descriptions.' Con- 
 sideration of tlie interestiiiir facts of his life has led to 
 the erection of this monnment, A. 1). 18G4." 
 
 Such is the monument that tlie New World ijives 
 to the heroic and magnanimous Ca[)tain John Smitli. 
 This is the nnkindest cut of all. Better far would 
 have been a simi)le cairn. As one of the explorers 
 of New Enjjland, he did mnnX service, although antiei- 
 pated by Champlain, who has the prior right to a 
 monument. His career, when stripped of all liction, 
 still presents sufficient to admire, and in whatever 
 aspect he may be viewed he will always a})pear as a 
 remarkable man. He deserved something ])ett(n- than 
 this ; built, too, upon the mainland, wlierc his dis- 
 coveries lay, and upon which he unquestionably trod. 
 But he can afford to wait. 
 
 Beyond this place is found what is calh^l i\Iiss 
 Underwood's Ivock, named after the teacher of tlie 
 scliool, who while sitting here reading a book was 
 swept off' by a wave. No less than three young girls 
 have since perished at the same place. Every one 
 who comes here wishes to know how it occurred. Let 
 them in future restrain their curiosity and keep away 
 from the boominjx surf. 
 
'■)i»»fi«#7!S).Lujji,,^ui^iiL,piii)iu» mm, 
 
 212 
 
 T/ie Isles of Shoals. 
 
 Some distance to the eastward is a luiue rift called 
 "Bettv IMoody's Cave." It is said that in the French 
 war, when the Indians wei'e committing depredations 
 all along the coast, one Betty Moody here secreted 
 herself and children fiom the wrath of the savages. 
 I give it, however, as a tradition, unsupported by con- 
 temj)oraneous autliorities. 
 
 Another story is also told in regard to a minister of 
 the same name, who })reached to the islanders. It 
 ap})ears that one of their fishing boats had been lost 
 with the entire crew, in Ipswich Bay. During a 
 sermon, in which Mr. IMoody sought to "improve" 
 upon this sad event, lie said : " Supposing, my breth- 
 ren, any of you should be overtaken in the bay by a 
 north-east storm, your hearts trembling with fear, and 
 nothing before you but death, whither would your 
 thoughts turn? what would you do?" To this he 
 received the unexpected reply from an old sailor, 
 who, unable to repress himself, promptly said : " I 
 would hoist the foresail and s'cud away for Squam ! " 
 
 In this vicinity the rocks are fine and the shore 
 bold, its outline forming the letter M with its top to 
 the islands, not a foot of land now intervening be- 
 tween us and the Old World ; yet we did not delay, 
 but returned throuiih the villac^e and went to the 
 north-west end of the island to view the remains of 
 an old fort. On the way, we passed another burial 
 ground, from which it appears that here the living 
 are less numerous than the dead. It is generally tho 
 
)> 
 
 The hies of Shoals. 213 
 
 c«.ew;thi.sla.Kl.; Lowevo. fn,i,f,„ i„ „,,„,,„ ^„. 
 >I»cf. they con.un,e more ,].„. ,1,.^ vicld; a,ul if 
 r.-o . .c as cnullos, ,hey a,o more bonn.if,,! a grave 
 Lu let us not n.e.li.a.e na>ong the tombs. " 
 
 Ihefortalhuled .0 was in eondition prior to ,l,e 
 Kevohttton, and mounted nine fb„r.,,ounders. Win 
 
 war broke out ,i,e, .ere removed ,0 the n^ain 
 Uud The work was constructe.l clnelly of stone und 
 could not have had very hi.di w-dls Tt ' ^'.'"'^ 
 fifty leet square. Here is where the Cross of Kin. 
 George floated in eolonial times, when the ,,eo, : 
 i;- "I <l..o respect ,0 the reigning power. ( ne o 
 
 .1.0 last eutrtes in the reeord book, prior .0 the di 
 l--on of the people, is d:.ted Wareh 11, 17 V I 
 give U verbatim: ^. For histing the fla. ,0 I enrv 
 Andres, 20." This was probacy the Ih^l wa" ^^ 
 
 locked by revolution. •' 
 
 AVe went thence toward the lat.din^ a-ai., ,r,s.in,r 
 on the way a iish-honse that had been lle^ot- t'e 2 
 evergreen frotn the mainland, preparatory to hoh i 
 a fatr for the benefit of the school. The profusion of 
 young forest trees, with which the place w.'s dccorat^ 
 J^.l ..s to thtnk that liirnam-s wood ha.I come to 
 Dunsmaue. Afterwards we rambled anton. ,],o 
 .OU.CS, and noticed a hotel i„ process of erec,';:,n to 
 take the place of an old one destrovd by fire At 
 the same time we su.hlenly heard a g, • ,, shouting on 
 the beach, winch was taken up elsew,.ere, uutif all 
 
I i|i|«,,HlWSui_i, juiiypjii. 
 
 214 TJic Isles of Shoals. 
 
 Gosport rang with a hue and aery, ending witli a gen- 
 eral rush of ohl and young for the boats. At Inst we 
 thought that the ishuid was going down, or at least 
 that a school of porpoises had entered the cove ; but 
 ultimately it appeared tliat tlie uproar was caused ])y 
 the arrival of a steamer from Newburyport, loaded 
 with excursionists. In the ears of the Shoalites, the 
 music of the brass band was of itself inspiring, but 
 then what was all this compaied with the live hundred 
 dimes prospectively placed in their emi)ty pockets ? 
 In tlieir financial economy, it was as reviving as rain 
 u[)on tlie parched earth. Accordingly every boy wlio 
 could paddle a tub, put off from shore, the Town 
 Clerk amonir the lest, with his vawl, the ileet of boats 
 appearing around the great steamer, like so many 
 minnows around a whale. Soon the whole party was 
 safely put ashore, and went trooping among the rocks 
 to fnul IJetty Moody's Cave, and inaugurate a great 
 day in Gosport. 
 
 As for ourselves, we quietly rowed to Haley's 
 Island, or Smutty-Nose, distant one-fourth of a mile. 
 Approaching the landing, we noticed a large brown 
 house with the word '' IIotkll" painted in huge let- 
 ters on one end. At the landing is a wharf, on the 
 east side of which there is room for a con [do of vessels 
 that are protected on the east side by a stone wall, 
 which also connects a detached portion of the isle 
 with Smutty Nose. In this inclosed situation a vessel 
 is safe in the heaviest gale. This was built by the 
 
The Isles of Shoals. 3 1 5 
 
 person after whom ,I,e i.la,,,! ,va,s formerly c.llo.l 
 
 llie Ilotell" .iKlnot wear a very i„viti„. anpe.r- 
 
 ance a,K we passed by and went on a stroiro,'.! u'e 
 
 ...and where we fonnd considerable grass Ja.id. !„ an 
 
 ""enclosed space was the grave of ,he In.ilder of ,ho 
 
 dock. A plain stone bore the following rude inscrip- 
 tioii : o ifj 
 
 'h. 18 1 Aged 84. lie was a man of great ingenn- 
 Uy, Indnstry, Honor & honesty, trne to his country 
 & A man who did A great pnblilc good in liuihling A 
 Dock & Beceiving in.o his inclosnre many a poor dis- 
 tressed Seaman & Fisherman in dis.ress of A\-eather " 
 ^earbymay also be seen the Spaniards' Caves, 
 where he the remains of fourteen shipwrecked sailors 
 each marked by a rude stone. It is to their fote that 
 AVhitticr refers when he brings fo.ward his old <isher- 
 u>an lean as a cnsk from Labrador, who told of 
 wrecks and storms, had seen the sea-serj,cnt, 
 
 "An,! heard the ghost, „„ itaicy, i„c complain. 
 Speak hn„ offshore, a,,d beg a passage to old Spain." 
 
 Of the islanders, nothing definite could be learned 
 about tins affair ; but, in searching the records of 
 t.osi)ort, I found the following entry : 
 
 'vShip Sagunto Strand 'on Smotinose He Jann4- 
 181J. Jan> lo one man fo.m K!'" G mend fonnd 21- 
 7 thexNumberof menyet found Belonging to said 
 
"W^ 
 
 2l6 
 
 TJic Isles cf Shoals. 
 
 sliil) twelve." The scribe dropped two in liis ad- 
 dition. 
 
 From some old newspapers of the day, it appears 
 that this shi[) was from Cadiz, k)aded witli provisions, 
 and commanded by a Captain Don. She went to 
 pieces soon after stl•andini,^ and a portion of the ear^o, 
 consisting of nuts and raisins, was thrown n])on the 
 sliore, togetlier witli bales of clothing made of broad- 
 cloth. It was also believed that the ship contained 
 considerable money, as gold and silver coins were 
 washed out upon the sliore. The ship was of three or 
 four hundred tons capacity, built of cedar and mahog- 
 any, and very old. One account savs t!iat, '• Much 
 <n-edit is due to the inhabitants of these barren rocks 
 for their instantaneous launching forth their boats in 
 a violent snow storm, the moment they discovered the 
 wreck, in hope of being able to rescue from a watery 
 grave the crew of the ship." Mrs. Thaxter writes : 
 
 " O sailors, did sweet eyes look after you, 
 
 TIio day you sailed away Ironi «> Miy Spain ? 
 Bright eyes tliat followed fadiu<r siiip and crew, 
 
 Melting in lender rain ? 
 
 Did no one dream of that drear night to be, 
 
 Wild with the wind, fierce with the stinging snow, 
 >Vhcn, on yon granite point that Irets the sea, 
 
 The ship met her death-blow ? 
 
 Fifty long years ago thes^o sailors died : 
 
 (None know how many sleep beneath tlie waves:) 
 Fourteen gray headstones, rising side by side, 
 
 I'oiut out their nameless graves,— 
 
The Isles of SJioals. 217 
 
 Lonely, unknown, deserted, but for me, 
 
 And the wild birds that flit with mournful cry, 
 Aud sadder winds, and voices of the sea 
 
 That moans perpetually. 
 
 Wives, mothers, maidens, wistfully, in vain 
 
 Questioned the distance for the yearning' sail. 
 That, leaning landward, should have stretched again 
 
 White arms wide on the gale, 
 
 To bring back their beloved. Year by year, 
 
 AV'cary they watched, till youth and beauty passed, 
 And lustrous eyes grew dim, and age drew near. 
 
 And hope was dead at last. 
 
 Still summer broods o'er that delicious land. 
 
 Rich, tragraut, warm with skies of golden glow: 
 Live any yet of that lorsaken band 
 
 Who loved so long ago? 
 
 O Spanish women, over the far seas. 
 
 Could I but show you where your dead repose ! 
 Could I send tidings on this northern breeze. 
 
 That strong and steady blows! 
 
 Dear dark-eyed sisters, you remember yet 
 
 These you have lost, but you can never know 
 One stands at their bleak graves whose eyes are wet 
 
 With thinking of your woe! " 
 
 This island is half a mile long and less in width. 
 The land is flat. On the western part there is consid- 
 erable good grass. A woman by the name of Piisley 
 died here in 1795. She kept two cows somewhere 
 on one of the isles, and cut in the summer all the 
 hay they needed in winter with a knife. The poor 
 woman's cows were taken by the British in 177o and 
 killed. To their credit we must add iliat they })aid 
 for them. It is related, however, that she was in- 
 
2l8 
 
 TJic Isles of SJioals. 
 
 
 consolable. The cuttle and sheep do very well here 
 now. 
 
 There are oidy a few buildings on the island, 
 though once they boasted of an academy ; and it is 
 said, tliougli I cannot verify the report, that at an 
 early jieriod students came here from the mainland to 
 pursue their studies. Possibly they came as well to 
 save their scalps as to improve the region situated 
 underneath. 
 
 And speaking of houses reminds me of another 
 story, to the effect that a storm once canied away one 
 of the houses entire to Cajie Cod, where it was tossed 
 up on terra firma. They learned where it came from 
 by some papers preserved in a box. It is an excel- 
 lent story, at least. 
 
 This is a pleasant, sunny island where rambling 
 will be found pleasant, even though the historical 
 associations are of less interest than at Gosport. 
 
 As we returned to Appledore the yacht Celia was 
 just leaving for Portsmouth, and the lirothers Laighton 
 were giving a parting salute with the bell and horn, the 
 latter an instrument about three feet lon<x, which can 
 at least boast of some power. We pitied from the 
 bottom of our hearts the poor wights who were now 
 returning to the world ; but soon got over our con- 
 cern for them and "sadlv thouijht of the morrow" — 
 the morrow, fated day — when we, too, must bid fare- 
 well to these sunny isles and in turn become the 
 objects of commisseration. 
 
The Isles of Shoals. 219 
 
 Thus the bright days pass at tlie Ish-s of Slioals. 
 After the round lias thus beeu gone through, it then 
 remains to be gone througli again with variations, 
 each time meeting some new view or odd adventure. 
 For tliose fond of stndying marine fiora, there are 
 unbounded facilities. At low water, in a sunny day, 
 drift in your boat along past the northwest ])(»int of 
 Star Island, at the right distance from the rocks, and 
 observe, far down, the beautiful groves of waving 
 fronds that fill this watery world, with the perch as 
 tame as kittens, feeding npon salads of bright green 
 sea-lettuce. By dredging we shall find that c^ach suc- 
 cessive depth has its peculiarities. There are zones 
 on the mountains under the water, along those dim 
 slopes that descend to the ocean's lowest depths, as 
 well as on the heights above. If w^e could descend, 
 what marvels should we behold ! There the carnival 
 of color is perpetual, running riotously through the 
 whole chromatic scale, while the deep-sea fruits are 
 ever ripening on their graceful stems. We have an 
 earnest of what we might expect, both in the gorgeous 
 coloring of the mosses that the waves toss upon the 
 beach, and in the " salt lemons and oranges that come 
 up on the dredge." 
 
 The flora upon the land is also .ore promising 
 than it may appear at first sight. It is tolerably well 
 catalogued in another poem by Mrs. Thaxter, entitled 
 "Kock weeds." 
 
Ml 
 
 2 20 
 
 The Isles of Shoals, 
 
 »' S:) bloak ttiese sliores, wind-swopt, and all the year 
 Washed by tho wild Atlantic's restless tide, 
 You would not dreuru that (lowers tho woods hold dear 
 Amid such desolation dare abide. 
 
 Yet when the bitter winter breaks, some day, 
 With soft winds flutterin.i^ her garments' hem, 
 
 tip from the sweet South (lomes the lingering May, 
 Sets the first wind-flower trembling on its stem. 
 
 Scatters her violets with lavish hands, 
 White, blue, and amber ; calls the columbine 
 
 Till, like clear flame in lonely nooks, gay bands 
 Swinging their scarlet bells obey the sign ; 
 
 Makes buttercups and dandelions blaze. 
 And throws in glimmering patches here and there 
 
 The little eyebright's pearls, and g(>ntly lays 
 The i:niuess of her beauty everywhere. 
 
 Later, June bids the sweet wild-rose to blow. 
 Wakes from its dream the drowsy pimpernel ; 
 
 Unfolf'.s the bindweed's ivory buds, that glow 
 As delicately blushing as a shell. 
 
 Then puri^le Iris smiles ; and hour by hour 
 The fair procession multiplies ; and soon 
 
 In clusters creamy white, the elder flower 
 Waves its broad disk against the rising moon. 
 
 O'er quiet beaches shelving to the sea 
 Tall mulleins sway, and ihistles ; all day long 
 
 Comes in the wooing water dreamily, 
 With subtle music in its slumbrous song. 
 
 Herb-Ilobort hears, and princess-feather bright, 
 While goldtliread clasps the little skull-cap blue; 
 
 And troops of swallows, gathering for their flight. 
 O'er golden rod and asters hold review. 
 
' 
 
 The Isles of Shoals, 
 
 The barren islan.l droums in flower., while blo^v 
 The south win.l., .Irawin,^ haze o'er sea and lan.I , 
 
 Yet the frreat heart of ocean, throbbing slow 
 Makes the frail blossoms visible where they stand. 
 
 And hints of heavier pulses soon to shako 
 Its mi-hty breast when summer is no more 
 
 When devastating,' waves swoop on and break^ 
 Aiid caasp with girdle white the iron shore. 
 
 Close-folded, safe within the sholterin- seed 
 Blossom and bell and leafy beauty hkle • ' 
 
 Nor icy blast nor bitter spray thev heed 
 But patiently tlieir wondrous change abide. 
 
 The heart of God through his creation stirs • 
 We thrill to feel it, trembling as the flowers 
 
 That die to live again,_his messengers 
 To keep faith firm in these sad souls of ours. 
 
 The waves of Time may devastate our lives 
 The frosts of age may c:heck our failing breath ; 
 
 They shall not touch the spirit that survives 
 Tniimphant over doubt and pain and death." 
 
 221 
 
■ 
 
 '^ ""^ <. 
 
 
 !^ 
 
 
 m. 
 
 M 
 
 J:-:'^^: 
 *.«»-•.' 
 
 <Xy 
 
 Xl:,^hM 
 
 "^i 
 
 
 PENOBSCOT BAY. 
 
 C II A r T E U XIV. 
 
 Kennehkc — MoN'iiKGAN — Camdkv — Olbtowx — Pamola 
 — Castim: — Tin: Capuchins — Isle or Haute — Pla- 
 
 CENTIA — AMOUNT DkSEUT. 
 
 -:.^.--ll 
 
 i 
 
 If-: 
 
 y^^VJ; 
 
 
 fe^ 
 
 EXODSCOT Bay lies in a region invested 
 with all the interest that is attached to 
 other portions of the Maine Coast. In 
 going thither from the Isles of Shoals, 
 we pass outside of Casco l>ay, which, with its count- 
 less islands and numerous delightful resorts, might 
 well claim a chapter of its own. But making 
 Portland the jwint of departure, we go throvgh this 
 bay, and, if it is dayliijrht, become somewhat ac- 
 quainted with its ^peculiarities. After clearing the 
 bay in the night, the first light that appears is 
 Seo-uin. This stands near the mouth of that beau- 
 tiful stream, the Kennebec. When on the coast of 
 Maine, the summer tourist should ascend this river to 
 Augusta. The scenery is everywhere fine. Here for 
 the first time we saw a sturgeon, as described by 
 Longfellow, in all his armor: 
 
 " On each side si BhicM to guard him, 
 riatcs of bone upon liis forehead, 
 Down his Bides, back and shoulders, 
 
Pamola 
 i: — Pla- 
 
 invested 
 clied to 
 [ist. In 
 
 Shoals, 
 i count- 
 ;, might 
 
 making 
 ugh this 
 liat ac- 
 'ing: the 
 pears is 
 %t beau- 
 coast of 
 
 river to 
 [lere for 
 'ibed by 
 
 Penobscot Bay. 22^ 
 
 PJafos of bone with spines projecting! 
 Tainted was he with liis war jmint, 
 
 Stripes of yellow, reel an«l azuio, 
 Spots of brown and t^pots of t^ablo." 
 
 T!.ey always seem very fo.,d of leaping out of Mm 
 hater. .Stan.lmg on the deck of the n,.wanl.l,o„„,l 
 steamer. ,vc heard a s.idden .s,,lash in the water, and 
 Parted, tlunking (hat a man had fallen overboard- 
 but It j,roved to be only " the sturgeon, Nahma/' 
 Who from the bottom 
 
 " rose with nngry gesture, 
 Qiiiverhijr in cacli nerve nnrt llbrc, 
 C'iasljinj; all lii« pInteB ofarmor, 
 Cilcainin^. briglil with all lii« ivarpaintj 
 In lii^ wratli iie dartetl upward. 
 ilasUiuj; leaped into tliu sunsliiuc." 
 
 "Vyiiile I was looking at the place where ho di-^ap- 
 peared, Nahma'. brother, about the size of a man did 
 precisely the same thing, leaping ftdl out of the water 
 and then falling back again in true histrionic stvle as' 
 if ■ stiff and dead. ' 
 
 ^ Next on our right, at sea, is Monhegan. This 
 IS a low Hat island of considerable size. Beyond 
 (juestion Captain John Smith actually laude.l here 
 If he did not at the Isles of Shoals. We ha^e his 
 own word for it. He arrived in April, 1014. The 
 island had been a resort of fishermen since 1008 if 
 i.ot longer. Smith says that "whilst the sailors 
 fclie.1. myself with eight others ranged the coast in a 
 fimall boat. We got for tritles near eieveu ti.,-,^aud 
 
224 
 
 Penobscot Bay. 
 
 beaver skins, one hundred martens, and as many 
 otters." lie carried back to England forty-seven 
 thousand dried fish cured at the island. The Arabic 
 Sj'stem of notation would utterly fail to tell hon many 
 thousand cod have been taken hero since. Tl ) set- 
 tlement on the island is small, but the place is of 
 genuine interest. We passed this island again q^\ one 
 of the loveliest nights that I ever si)ent on the "\rater, 
 when the full-orbed moon sent down Ui)on the waves 
 her most bewitching glances. For 
 
 " In such a night 
 Stood Dido with a ^villow in her hand 
 Upon tlio wild sea hanks and waft her Jove 
 To come again to Cartluige." 
 
 If the runaway iEneas had been with us on the 
 Lewiston, he would not have objected seriously to 
 going anywhere, simply on account of the weather. 
 
 On this island is what looks like a Runic inscrintion 
 in the face of a rock. An engraving of this rock is 
 given by the Society of Northern Anticiuarians in 
 one of their publications {^Dcs Antlquaires du Nord, 
 May 14, 1859), but the Society very prudently ab- 
 stained from giving an opinion. The Northmen when 
 on the coast may have noticed this island, yet the 
 jdleged inscription is probably the result of dis- 
 integration. 
 
 Opposite Monhegan, on the main, is Pemnquid, tlie 
 I' cure ot Samoset, who welcomed the English Pil- 
 gnms at Plymouth in 1G20. Bradford says this 
 
Penobscot Bay, 
 
 225 
 
 (I, tlie 
 I Til. 
 5 lliia 
 
 Chief came "houldly anioiig>t tliem, and spoke to 
 them in broken Kn<'Tis]i, which tliev could well under- 
 stand but marvelled at it. At leniith thev understood 
 by discourse with him, that he was not one of these 
 [Plymouth] parts, but belonged to ye eastrene parts, 
 wher some iMiglish ships came to lish, with whom ho 
 was acquainted, and could name sundrie of them by 
 their names, amongst whom he gott liis language." 
 Accordinii" to the account which lie ijave of himself 
 he was Sagamore of " ]\Iorattiggon," lying eastward 
 *'adaye"s sail with a great wind, and live days by 
 land." He visited the Pilgrims again two days after- 
 wards, that is, Sunday, March 18 ; and on March 
 22, he came for the last time to Plvmouth with 
 the Chief S(iuaiito, by whose joint agency a peace 
 was arranged with Massasoit. 
 
 He appears only once more on the page of New 
 England history, in 1G25, when he deeded away a 
 large tract of land near Pemaipiid. Among his other 
 good acts was that of rescuing some shipwrecked 
 Frenchmen cast away on Cape Cod in 1G17. Says 
 one writer, " The life of the Pcmaipiid chief Samo- 
 set, or Somerset, must ever awaken the most tender 
 and interesting reflections; and the generosity and 
 genuine nobility of soul, displayed by this son of the 
 forest, must be allowed as a fairer index to the true 
 character of the Aborigines than their deeds of resent- 
 ment and cruelly in after-days, when goaded to mad- 
 ness by the cupidity or treachery of the Europeans." 
 
M 
 
 226 
 
 Penobscot Bay, 
 
 Between Pemaquid aiid Moulicgan the fiiilit of ilie 
 Enterprise and the Boxer took i)lace in I8I0, tlie lat- 
 ter becoming a [>rize to the United States, after a 
 severe eiii^aucnient of thirtv-five minutes, in which the 
 connnanders were both killed. 
 
 Eai-ly in the morning the steamer reaches Ivock- 
 land, where the Portland steamer connects with the 
 boat rnnning to Bangor. This })lace is chiefly cele- 
 brated for its lime, which is burnt and exported in 
 fabulous qnantities. Our Down-east friends iind the 
 lime-rock as good as gold, and get rich in the trade 
 almost as fast as their Massachusetts neiijhbors do in 
 selling off their ice. From this point we catch a 
 glimpse of the Camden Hills, a few miles distant, now 
 a popular place of resort. The whole region around 
 Camden abounds in attractions that have not become 
 backneved like most of the resorts in Massachusetts. 
 The hills as we passed them strikingly reminded us 
 of the heights of Mount Desert, though they present 
 little of their wonderful variety. 
 
 The coast line here as everv where is extremelv 
 irregular. Between Portland and Machiasport the 
 steamer changes her course over two hundred times. 
 From Kittery Point to "^Ves^ C^uoddy Head, the dis- 
 tance in a riulit line is only about two hundred and 
 twentv-six miles, while it is said that an actual surv 
 
 ey 
 
 will make the shore three thousand. 
 
 So little was known of the coast in 1(]()7, that 
 Popham wrote to Prince Charles, telling him that nut- 
 
Penobscot Bay. 
 
 'I'lj 
 
 he 
 at- 
 • a 
 ilie 
 
 )ck- 
 
 llie 
 !cle- 
 \ ui 
 
 tlie 
 LvaAe 
 V^ in 
 ch 1^ 
 
 voiuhI 
 
 come 
 iisctts. 
 
 eel ns 
 
 esent 
 
 •tinely 
 III tlie 
 times. 
 
 lie elid- 
 ed ami 
 survey 
 
 liaL nui- 
 
 mosr-; Ji^iK^ ciiinam:^n iirow lioro. lie als(^ said that 
 seven (lavs' ioui'iicv westward IVom Sti^adalicc, tlicre 
 was a large sea reaching to China, which " uncjues- 
 tionably" was not far from these shores. 
 
 A short distance above l>an2;or is the settlennMit of 
 the OM Town Indians. The present number of the 
 tribe is five hundred and twenty-five. The school 
 numbers iifty-four scholars. They receive from the 
 Government nearly six thousand dollars annuallv. 
 Their number has not diminished for the last fortv 
 years. They are frequently seen in the vicinity of 
 jM<junt Desert. They ]iav(i a " New Party," and an 
 *• Old Party," as is the case at Pleasant Point, tliough 
 with the Old Town Indians the Xew Partv is the 
 less respectable. They have had bitter (piarrels 
 among themselves from time to time, and once, for a 
 i)eriod of two years, they were left by the Poman 
 Catholic authorities, to whose church thev a<lhere, as 
 perfectly incorrigible. They have among them a 
 Phenician custom which prevails in Ireland, of build- 
 inu^ luine bonfires on iNlidsummer Eve, the Viiiil of S. 
 John l>a})tist. They are exceedingly superstitious, 
 and have some famous traditions rcixardiii'^ Mount 
 Katahdin, the residence of the Spirit Pamohi. One 
 of tliem, according to Father A\Hromile, who served 
 as Priest of Ohl Town, runs as follows : 
 
 Several humh'cd vears auo, whihj a Penobscot In- 
 dian was encamped east of Katahdin, in the autumn 
 hunting season, an unexpected full of snow covered 
 
 a 
 
.'1 i 1 . 
 
 228 
 
 Penobscot Bay. 
 
 the whole country to the depth of many feet. Not 
 liaving any snow-shoes, he was unable to return home, 
 and remained blocked up in the drifts, feeling that he 
 must eventually iierish. l>ut in his despair he called 
 with a loud voice for Pamola, who hnallv made his 
 appearance on the top of the mountain. Thereupon 
 the Indian took coura^fc, and offered a sacrifice of oil 
 and fat, which he poured upon some burning coals. 
 As the smoke went up, Pamola descended from the 
 sunmiit of tlie mountain, wlien the sacrifice was re- 
 peated, drawing l^unola as far as the camp, where the 
 Indian welcomed him, savinix, "' You are welcome, 
 Paitner." Pamola replied : " You have done well to 
 call me })artner, for thus you are saved, who otherwise 
 w^ould have been destroyed by me. Now 1 will take 
 you on the mountain, and you shall be hap})y with 
 me." He therefore jnit the Indian on his shoulders, 
 bade him close his eyes, and in a few minutes, witli a 
 noise as of a whistling wind, they were inside of the 
 mountain. The Indian described the interior of Ka- 
 tahdin as containinjjj a comfortable wiiiwam, furnished 
 with an abundance of venison, and all the luxuries of 
 life, aiul that l*amola had a wife and children living 
 there. Pamola gave him his daughter to wife, aiul 
 told him that after one year he could return to his 
 friends at the Penobscot, and have the i)rivilege of 
 coming to see his wife as often as he i)leabed. He 
 was told, however, that he must not marrv another 
 wife, and that if he did he would immediately be 
 
Sot 
 mc, 
 : he 
 illea 
 : bis 
 il)on 
 ,f oil 
 ;oals. 
 
 IS re- 
 i-e the 
 come, 
 
 veil to 
 evwise 
 
 1 talvC 
 uith 
 uldei's, 
 ith a 
 of the 
 of Ka- 
 iiibhed 
 •ies of 
 living 
 ife, and 
 to his 
 lo«»e of 
 
 a. He 
 
 iinollier 
 
 Ltelv be 
 
 Penobscot Bay. 
 
 229 
 
 transported to Katahdiii, from whence lie would never 
 return again. At the end of the year he went back 
 to Old Town and lold all his adventures. The 
 Indians nr^ed him to marrv aiiain, which at lirst he 
 refused to do ; though at last they carricl their point. 
 IJut i*aniola was true to his word, for the dav after ho 
 suddenly disappeared, and he must, of course, have 
 been spirited back to the heart of the ^Mountain. Jt 
 is to be hoped that his i'ate will have a wholesome 
 etfect upon those who remain. 1 was shown by Dr. 
 Ballard, the Secretary of the Maine Historical Society, 
 a rude sketch of Pamela, that was made for him bv an 
 Indian. The sketch reminded me of Falstatf's de- 
 scription of Slender, who " was fn* all the world like 
 a forked radish, with a head fantastically carved on it 
 with a knife." 
 
 We did not on this occasion ascend the Penobscot, 
 which, however, well repays the journey, as the 
 steamer sailed from Ivockland direct to Casline. This 
 is another extremely interesting place. As we ap- 
 proached the landing, the old earthworks u[)on the 
 summit of the hill to the rear of the. town came 
 prominently into view, their outline being relieved by 
 the sky. Casline has a pleasant, cleanly a[)[:earance, 
 and the whole -.ciiiliborhood looks invitiui*-. ^\'ar 
 the l*oint is shown the site of IJaron Castin's fort. 
 
 Among the names associated with the early days of 
 the Penobscot that of Vincent de St. Castin is the 
 most distinguished. At one time he was an oHicer iu 
 
230 
 
 Penobscot Bay. 
 
 the ])ody guard (»f tlie King of France. Born near 
 the Pyrenees an<l accustomed to their wikl and rnix- 
 ged .scenery, tlie primeval forests of Acadie accorded 
 well with his eccentric dis[)Osition. Soon after arriv- 
 ing at Quebec, in 1G(j."), the regiment of which he was 
 commander havinuj been disbanded, he selected the 
 j)ine-clad peninsula of Biguatus as his place of resi- 
 dence. On the same spot which had [)reviously been 
 occu[)ied by D'Aulney and Temple, he erected a forti- 
 iied habitation, and for over a (piarter of a century 
 carried on an extensive and profitable trade. Ba 
 Ilontau estimated his jjrofits to ha\e been two or 
 three hundred thousand crowns, and Castin himself 
 informed M. Tibieriie, in 1005, that ei<»hlv thousand 
 livres could bo annully realized at Penobscot out of 
 the beaver trade. In lG7o, twenty-one white i;er- 
 sons, including soldiers, were connected with Castin's 
 establi.shment. lie formed a close alliance with the 
 savages by marrying the daughter of ]Madackawaiulo, 
 their chief, and his influence over them was so great, 
 that they regarded him as their tutelar god. AVithin 
 liis habitation was a chapel attended by a Koman 
 priest. lie was an avowed enemy of the Knglish. 
 King William's War has sometimes been called Castin's 
 War. In 1G88 Sir Edmund Andros anchored off his 
 fort in the frigate Pose, when the Paroii fled to the 
 woods. Andros landed and pillaged the jilace, not 
 even respecting the chai)el altar. Then followed 
 nine years of war and blooiUlied. Custiu afterwards 
 
Penobscot Bay. 231 
 
 rebuilt lii.s f(jrt, Imt wliile iil)s(Mit in France in 170;], it 
 was again pillaged. 'J'he next year Colonel Clnireh 
 carried lire and the sword tlirongliont the region. 
 Castin died in France, bnt his son by his Indian wife 
 eontinned to live in the country. 
 
 Tiie visitor at modern Castine may also feel inter- 
 e^^ted in learning that at one period the Capuchins 
 had established a monastery here. This Older is a 
 bi-anch of the Friars ^Minor, founded by St. Francis 
 of Assissi. A member of this branch of the (hder, 
 having made the remarkable discovery that the breth- 
 ren did not wear the same style of capuce, or hood, 
 that their founder wore, succeeded, in conjunction 
 with another devotee, in obtaining (July 13, lo2,S) ;i 
 Papal Bull for the establishment of the Capuchins as 
 a distinct society. Mr. Shea says that thev first 
 appeared in the French colony in 1G32, when they 
 were olfered the direction of religious affairs, which 
 oiler was declined. In 1G43 D'Aulney invited them 
 to come to Acadia. In IG-IG Father Druillettes, a 
 Jesuit from Quebec, going on a visit to the Abenakis, 
 found at Pentegoet a little hospice of Capuchins, 
 under their Superior, Father Ignatius of Pai-is. This 
 hospice, according to Charlevoix, was on the Kenne- 
 bec at Castine, where they acted as Chaplains to the 
 French traders and settlers. It is thought that the 
 visit of Father Druillettes led to the erection of 
 a new and more permanent hospice. At all events 
 one was erected in lG-i8, which is demonstrated by an 
 
ill) 
 
 r 
 
 232 
 
 Penobscot Bay. 
 
 inscription on a plate of copper, found in tlic uulumn 
 of 18(Jo, neiir the old l)i'ick battery, known as the 
 Lower Fort. The inscription is as follows : 
 
 "1G48. 8. IVxV. F. Lko. Parisix. Capl'C. Miss 
 
 Pes VI Hoc FVNDTM Ix IINll EM Xll.E D^EE 
 SANCTyE SrEI." 
 
 This may be rendered as follows : 
 
 "1G48. Jan. 8. I, Friar Leo, of Paris, Ca- 
 ruciiiN Missionary, laid this foundation in 
 HONOR OF OUR Lady of Holy IIope." 
 
 In 1G4D, D'Aiilney, the patron of the Capuchins, 
 was over{)owered by La Tour, whom Mr. Shea de- 
 scribes as a " hickory member" of the Roman Cath- 
 olic Church, and his settlements were disbanded. 
 The Capuchins in Maine left no records. 
 
 Of the character of theso men we cannot speak 
 with the same deflniteness as of the Jesuits. The 
 monks of old differed greatly in their characters and 
 reputation. There were the monks of St. Gildas do 
 Rhu3^s. Longfellow thus makes Lucifer hit them off 
 in " The Golden Lciiend " : 
 
 " The convent windows gleamed ns red 
 As tlio licry eyes of the monks within, 
 Who with jovial din 
 Gave themselves up to all kinds of s^in ! 
 Ha! that is a convent! that is an abbey ! 
 Over the doors, 
 
 None of your death-heads carved in wood, 
 None of your Saints lookinj" pious and good, 
 None of your I'atriarchs old and shabby? 
 But the heads and tusks ot boors, 
 And the cells 
 
Penobscot Iniy. 
 
 -00 
 
 Hung nil round with the fells 
 
 Of llie lillloivilecr. 
 
 Aiul (hen wlintehecr! 
 
 What jolly fat fiiai-s, 
 
 MillinK roiiu,! the great, roaring flres," 
 
 B.U if ,l,e m,)„ks of JIaittc belonged to this olass 
 they sl,owe,l litile sense in leaving ,|,c endowed nio- 
 nas.efy of the Old World for tlte log-b„iU l.ospiee 
 of tlte .New, wl,e.-e. instemi of seeming il,e .leer's fell 
 tl.ey might lose their own scalps. They le,l a hard' 
 and often a .sad life. Instead of the constant carnival 
 ot <le Ixhuys It was a prolonged Lenten Ihst. Theirs 
 was the coarse fare, the scanty hoard, the wearin.r 
 Vigd the painful march, and, at night, the bed of 
 boughs. Snch men have a right to stickle abont the 
 eut ot a capnce. Indeed, they have seMom ha,l j„s^ 
 tice Stdl they were generally me.r of right aims an,l 
 a self-denying spirit, ready to compass sea and land to 
 make a proselyte, and buying at any price the privi- 
 lege of sendmg an Indian child to heaven with a drop 
 ol clew. ^ 
 
 From Castine we descend the bay around Cane 
 Rosier to the pleasant little town of Sedgwick where 
 passengers are landed. Thetice the steamer's course 
 !■ shaped for Deer Isle, which is al^ut half as lar.re 
 as iMount Desert and supports a thickv settled li.hht.r 
 community. The isle appears to be "a bright stmn^ 
 l.lace, and a sutnmer spent here would no doubt be 
 prohtable, as the steamer regularly places travellers 
 on one ot the most central portions of the bay. 
 
234 
 
 Penobscot Bay. 
 
 1 
 
 )l:ii 
 
 act 
 
 tl 
 
 10 
 
 at 
 
 cM'n 
 
 \v 
 
 llOl 
 
 sec 
 
 We next go tlirongli EgeniDirgin Koacli wliicli ex- 
 tends l)ctween Doer Isle and tli(^ mainland, after 
 v/hich tlie I^le an Haute, Iligli Island, as Cliam- 
 in called it. That exijlorer was evidently well 
 juainted with this locality, lie says : " Coming to 
 ; south of the High (Jiaulc) island, and coasting it 
 about one-fourth of a league where there are sev- 
 1 sand-bars just out of water, we turned to the 
 est till we o[)enod the mountains which are to the 
 •th of said island. You can be assured tliat in 
 inir the eiirht or nine notches in the Isle of Mount 
 seit and of Bedabebec, you will not see any 
 more islands." It was on the Isle of Haute that the 
 iled States Slooi)-of-War, John Adams, mounting 
 cnty-four guns, got ashore August 17, 1814, having 
 board sixty English prise ers. She was eventu- 
 ally brought olF and taken up the Penobscot, where 
 to prevent her capture by the r>ritish, she was set 
 ou lire. 
 
 Cloi-e at hand mu}^ also be seen Placentia, an island 
 that Whittier celebrates in his jioem of ]\Iogg Megone. 
 He tells ns of one Pere lireteaux who had a mission 
 there, dwelling alone in a hut. He says : 
 
 1 
 
 ?eh 
 
 I 
 
 tw 
 
 U] 
 
 on 
 
 Tliere plccp PJp.ccnd'n's group— and llicre 
 I'erc IJretcaux marks the hour of prayer; 
 And tliere, beneath the Fej.-uorn clift', 
 
 On which the lather's Hut is seen 
 The Indian btays liis rocking t^kiff, 
 
 And peers the hemlock bough between, 
 Hall" trembling as he Fecks to look 
 Upon tho Jesuits Cross and liook." 
 
«p I ■■>-jiimiui«UL 
 
 ii ex- 
 
 aftor 
 ?liam- 
 
 ^vell 
 iiig to 
 iiii^ it 
 e sev- 
 to the 
 to the 
 hat in 
 Mount 
 !e any 
 lat the 
 )uiiting 
 having 
 eventii- 
 
 where 
 ,vas set 
 
 11 island 
 ^legone. 
 mission 
 
 Penobscot Bay. ^^. 
 
 " O 
 
 TlH-s liowovor, is ,„„l,i„j. I„u a |,n.„v n..(f„„. Vo 
 
 :;:':;"■'' "" ""• -^'-'^ ^'-- ^^ ^s .....^.:, 
 
 ci pleasM.iit spor. ' 
 
 --■•-t.,,H.,,,.i,n.nd.....,.,.,H',i,,.,,;,J,^t 
 
 "«'"';■'"•' '^^■""' "''• -' iii<'^ " i,..,t «.„„; ,„ ,.. .„,,.• 
 
 l'asnl.-e;,,l.vl,crMsl„m„|„l„.,l„.e.is,. Tl,n 
 
 7;r- "—'■'.• .' >-...r;..:'::r';;;;;: 
 
 loclw. A\lut uo,„ls there wore l,e .avs w,.,-(. -..,11 
 pmes and i„//W,. „,„,,,,_ •• F .ante.l it ,'l,e 
 
 1 at, ,„,c_ of the highest e.ninence, O.eeu Mo,„.- 
 •un, he ..ve.l at forty-f,.,,,, an,! a half, whiel, a-n^ecs 
 sulficiently well with ,he n,o,hM-n sn.Tey " 
 
 Then we left Penohseot iSay an.l" .sailed anunul 
 
 M «n Desen to S.uth-West Ila.-bo. where CoI„nel 
 
 Church, durn.g the French and Indian war, .sont,- 
 
 -mcs ea:n3 in search of the enenu-, who n.ade the 
 
 tr ; r """" '' ""^ '"^™ '" ^ --k that the 
 lUasaachiisetts men cst-dilisl,,,,! , 
 4 . . , Lstaoii.slied a nove i)ost-o(Iice 
 
 Arriving Jiere Chnrch savs tl,-,f I,„ »■ i 
 
 ;;f^'';^!' ''? ^■^'•''^■■'^''- '-''t instead "a rnndlet rid 
 o'; '.V a ].ne in the harbor which he or,lerea to I.e 
 
 thin." f , • -r'"'"^' " ''° *■"""' ^' '"«-• '^'•''^■«^«-'' 
 
 t. hnn. ,om winch he learned that the f.-iend, had 
 
 '•e.nrned to lioston. Bnt on our arrival (18{;8) „■ ' 
 
T? 
 
 I 
 
 !ii ' 
 
 
 nil i 
 
 236 
 
 Penobscot Bay. 
 
 rcecivcl tl.o mail in a roa loatliei- bug, marked U. S., 
 at tho \nmd of Dcaco,. Clark. From tkonco ^vo 
 st...amO(l arom.l to Bar Harbor, wbero for tho time 
 we baao Cai,taiu Docring a.lic,., Mitculi,,- to start for 
 Grand Mona.i uudcr liU careful aud skilful guidai.co 
 the next trip. 
 
 1 ' 
 
G R A XD M E X A X. 
 ciiApri: II XV. 
 
 liouTi: TO M.vriii vs — Tin; Fi(;iit — Li;iu:c — Eaulv His- 
 tory — KxpLoRATiONs — (icLi.s — Swallow Tail lli: ad— 
 WiiALK Covi: — Indian Ulach — Dauk IIauijou — Tin: 
 Ketuux. 
 
 EA\'I\Cjr Bar Harbor at noon on a beau- 
 tiful Aumi.st dav, we started for tlie iiortli- 
 (;rn liead of Grand Menan, situated in a 
 direet line about eiiihtv-livc miles ironi 
 3Iount Desert. In steaming out we had a line view 
 of the clilfs of Iron-bound Island, and Sehoodie Hill. 
 The latter, as we progressed, turned itself around 
 to alford a fidl view of its bare and bleaehed sides. 
 Gradually, Newport and Green Mountain faded into 
 one, and then sank out of sight. 
 
 The next noticeable feature was Petit ]Menan, so 
 called to distinguish it fiujni C'reat, or Grand Menan. 
 It is a low, barren i.sland, with a granite lighthoirse 
 one hundred and twenty-iive feet high, showing a 
 Hash liiiht. A wreck lav in the surf on the beach. 
 This place is about lifteen miles from IJar Harbor. 
 The next lighthouse is on Pond Island, to the right 
 of which is the island called J(;rdan's Delight, having 
 handsome cliiTs. Near a shinule beach was an arch- 
 
2;8 
 
 Grand lilcnan. 
 
 way ill the rocks. The pilot said that the place was 
 full of attractions. 
 
 At Millbridge, it being low water, the passengers 
 were taken off b}" a boat. Ship's-Stern Islam] was 
 next pointed out. It resembles, at one end, the stern 
 of an old-fashioned ship. Pigeon Ilill now disap- 
 l>eared in the distance, and the steamer ran on among 
 clusters of low, rocky islands, more or less covered 
 with ^nnes, and passed through Plummer's Sound, 
 which forms a fine harbor about six miles long. It is 
 shut in by a range of islands that are famous for ship- 
 wrecks. 
 
 Next Jonesport, about thirty miles from Bai* Ilar- 
 l)or, comes in view, with the waters of Moose-A-ljeck 
 Iveach ; ]\Iarlv Island lying out at the entrance. Jones- 
 port is pleasantly situated. A few houses are scat- 
 tered near the shore, and further on is a small \ illau!:e. 
 It was from this place that the colonists went forth to 
 settle at Joppa. It does not look like a place capable 
 of producing romantl: visionaries like those who 
 undertook to revolutionize Palestine. Opposite lie 
 numerous small islands with a iaw poor cottages. 
 Jonesport is noted for its fine trout fishing. It has a 
 new hotel, and will erelong become a popular resort. 
 Next the mouth of Englisliman's Bay is passed, witli 
 Shorey's Island. In the distance, at sea, Pulpit or 
 Split Rock appears, a little to the right of which is the 
 saddle-' iliaped island known as the Brothers. Next is 
 Green Island, curiouslv formed, and sarmounted bv 
 
Grand Jllcnan. 
 
 239 
 
 us a 
 esovt. 
 with 
 it or 
 s the 
 ext is 
 (1 bv 
 
 conical-shaped liills. A hirixe Hock of jjulls was 
 restiiiiJC on the nearest. Oiher islands consttmtlv 
 rise np as we pa^s. Among them is Libhey's Kland 
 with its I'ufhthonse, Pettiijrew's, Cross Ishmd with its 
 deer and cave containinti' bnried ff<dd whicli nnlbr- 
 tunately no one can find, and Stone's and Brown's 
 Island. On Stone's was a fish-hawks' nest in tlie top 
 of a dead tree. Passing these, Yellow Head is next 
 seen standinc: at the west entrance of Machias Ihiv, 
 with Chauncey's Island on the east. Buck's lIarl)or 
 is a snug little i)lacc near Yellow Head. Numerous 
 other islands are spriidvled about, adding to the beauty 
 of the bay. 
 
 ft- 
 
 Here a^ijain we were on historic ijround, and were 
 reminded of the celebrated fight off 3Iachias. One 
 of the natives, who knew every inch of land and water 
 in this vicinity, but unfortunately was not posted in 
 history, undertook to tell me how it was. 
 
 *• You see," said he, '• when they found out what 
 the British were about, they just filled the hold of the 
 sloop with men armed with j)itchforks and pikes, cov- 
 ered the deck W4th sheep, and then sailed down the 
 harbor. When they liot alongside the British they 
 
 asked them if thev wanted to trade, and when thev 
 said they did, the m<'n rushed u}) out of the hold and 
 took the British in a minute." This was making tol- 
 erably short work of it. 
 
 From Machias, wliich bears numerous scars of war, 
 we i)roceeded twenty-six miles overland to Lubec by 
 
240 
 
 Grand ]\Tcnan. 
 
 stage. This is tlic nearest point of departure for 
 Grand ^Fenan. Tlie road thither is pleasant, and, on 
 aj)proacliing the end, the ishind lying out against 
 the horizon presented a hjng, le\el, j)urple wall. Of 
 Lubec not much can be said. There are some mines 
 of silver and lead near, and it is not without attrac- 
 tions as a fishin^j villauce ; vet, on the whole, we con- 
 eluded that it was a good i)lace to get away from. 
 This, however, is not such an easy matter, if one's 
 course lies towards the sea. The steamer w liich luns 
 from Boston to Eastport will connect the tourist with 
 the packet sailing weekly from the latter i)lace to 
 Grand ^lenan, usually leavinijj on Saturdav and re- 
 turning to Eastport the following AVednesday. Ihit 
 of the ])acket we could learn nothing:. Thev did not 
 know whether she had dropped down from Eastport 
 (three miles above) or not. In fact, while it was 
 utterly inii)Ossible for a tom-cod to pass the docks 
 niirht or day without beinix seen and caui^ht. the i^ood 
 peo^de knew no more of the packet than some of the 
 revenue ollicers here know (perha})s) about smug- 
 iiTnn»-. The sum of the whole matter was, that, if I 
 wished to go to Menan, I had better hire a boat. I 
 thought so too, on the whole, as the weather was line 
 and the breeze fresh and fair. The lishermen with 
 whom 1 spoke seemed to thiidv this a htippy decision ; 
 and now who should have the job? 1 liiially bar- 
 gained with a good honest fellow for a live-ton her- 
 ring boat and a crew of two men. AVe (that is, Ama- 
 
Grand Mcnaii. 
 
 241 
 
 for 
 
 on 
 inst 
 
 Of 
 ines 
 rtic- 
 cou- 
 Vom. 
 one's 
 
 runs 
 
 with 
 
 CO to 
 
 \\ re- 
 
 But 
 
 1(1 not 
 
 ,tpovt 
 lit was 
 
 (locks 
 
 I' dood 
 
 (> 
 
 f ilie 
 
 ^\\\\\% 
 
 «r- 
 
 Ut. 1 
 lit. 
 
 i I 
 
 us 
 
 I'lllO 
 
 U NVl 
 
 ih 
 
 (•i>u>u ; 
 
 )U 
 
 luir- 
 
 lier- 
 
 Auia- 
 
 rhitu and T) tluMi luirried on l)oard with onr bniiixnirc 
 'J'iie skipper l)rouglit down a com^iass, sonic liard 
 brcaik and a juu,- of water, and at on(^e we were 
 sweeping down the harbor past Cami)0 Bello, favored 
 l)y wind and tide. 
 
 liciiig now fairly on the way, tliere was an oppor- 
 tunity to count up tlie dilTicuhies of the voyag(\ The 
 distance from West Quoddy Head to Menan is only 
 about nine miles, yet sometimes it takes a week to 
 get across. Fogs, calms, tides and adverse gales 
 combine to stop the passage of a sailing vessel. 
 Pin* or, who with his brother artist preceded us, said 
 that thev had a hard lime of it. Losinjj the iKicket, 
 thev chartered a iishinu boat at Kastport, but ixot no 
 farther than the cas<^ side of Cam[)o Hello, when the 
 fog forced them to take shelter in a fisherman's hut 
 in a cove, for two davs and niixhts. Finallv a lishinij: 
 vessel bound to Menan came into the cove, and, the 
 weatlier opportunely clearing, they engaged ])assage 
 and embarked. After beating about the 15ay of 
 Fundv all idiiht, thev were landed on the east bide of 
 Menan in the morn in jx. 
 
 For ourselves we happily esca})ed all this, and so 
 mav others, if thev carefullv lav their i>lans. Instead 
 of being two days, we made tlie trip in little more 
 than two hours, as our little craft, under a heavv load 
 of canvas, swept over the wave, like a gull on the 
 
 wmu^. 
 
 As we advanced, ^lenan ijt'aduallv rose above the 
 
 
242 
 
 Graud Mtiian. 
 
 waves and cliangfMl its aspect, tlic llat-toi)pe(l ])ur[)Ie 
 wall being transmutetl into l)rovvn, rngged, perpen- 
 dicular clitls, crowned with dark green foliage. Pass- 
 ing as we did close in by the extreme northern point, 
 we were imjn'essed bv its V)eanty and grandeur, which 
 far exceeds even that of the cliifs at Mount Desert. 
 Then came the l>ishoi)'s Head, presenting the rude 
 outline of what appears like a tonsured monk sitting 
 in a chair. It is not so definite in its outline as the 
 Friar's Head at Campo Bello, yet, taken altogether, it 
 surpasses it by far. A little further on is Eel Brook 
 Cove, with its fine rocky cliflTs. At this place the 
 shij) Lord Ashburton was wrecked. Several of the 
 crew were saved, yet the marvel is how they got up 
 the steep rocks. In the graveyard near Flagg's Cove, 
 the bodies of twenty-one of the unfortunates lie side 
 bv side. 
 
 In a few minutes we dashed gaily into Whale 
 Cove, a broad bay in the form of a horse-shoe, indent- 
 ing the northern end of the island. Here the view 
 is surprisingly fine, the entire shore being cii'cled by 
 inunense clitls that rise up around the border of the 
 blue waves, with a richness of color and stateliness of 
 as}>ect that cannot fail to impress the beholder. 
 
 l>ut we had no time now lo stay and study the 
 clifis in detail, as our destination was Flagg's Cove, 
 and we were in doubt about its precise locality. "Wo 
 accordingly ran down to a fishing boat, and, on 
 inquiry, learned that the cove in question made in 
 
Grand Mcnan. 
 
 ^4o 
 
 on rlic eastern side of tlie inland, extejidi,)- to witl.in 
 a (luarter of a mile of Whale Cove. Our skipper had 
 c >;m-aeted to eariy us to the former place, but as the 
 ni-lit was eomiuo- on. and he was anxious to get the 
 l):H-('/e home a<rain. we released liim from the bar-rain 
 •'!"! were put a.hore. Ou the whole it was best, 
 and persons eomin- as we did, will generally do well 
 tn land here; that is, of course, if the surf should not 
 prove high. The northerly gales, it will be remem- 
 bered, (hive directly upon the land. 
 
 Our craft was brought to close by the shore, and 
 we reached the beacii in a dory. Some fishermen 
 .were dressing hake near their boat-houses, and two or 
 three small boys were at i.lay. Our arrival attracted 
 the latter, who at once came down to us. As I 
 jumped upon the soil of the Dominion, I addressed 
 one of the brightest of them, saying that I supposed 
 he was one of Victoria's b.ns. To this he snarled a 
 most emphatic -No." 1 tohl liim that he need not 
 feel ashamed of so sweet a lady and so good a (^leen ; 
 yet for all that he said nay. Jt was the blood of 
 Cape Cod and Cape Ann that cohered his freckled 
 face; the same that coursed in the veins of the old 
 priva^eersmen. AVhat saith the poet? Cailum 7wn 
 animnm mutant, qui tram mare cnrrunt ; which 
 means that the .Alarbleheader may change skies and 
 fishing grounds, but not his inveterate Yankee 
 notions. Still we are supposed here to be under the 
 protection of Her 3Iajesty's Flag, and so, God save 
 
244 
 
 Grand Mcnan. 
 
 ill 
 li 
 
 tlic Queen. To wliicli Amarinta, stepping ashore, 
 says, Amen, })referrin<^ tlie reign of Victoria much 
 heforc tliat of Nei)tune. 
 
 Next we arraiiijed witli tlie fisliermen to carry our 
 baggage across to Flagg's Cove, as soon as they had 
 l)ickhMl their hist liake, then bade our trusty skipper 
 good-by. and started on aliead tlirough a hme, passing 
 a cf)ui)le of fisliermen's cottages, the graves of the 
 Asliburton's crew, the school-house with a belfrv and 
 rat-tail s|)ire, and the bulging sides of the new town 
 liall, to wliich the scarcity of the public funds cruelly 
 denies a roof. In due time I found the house to 
 whicli I had been recommended by an artist of New 
 York, wlio had spent three summers here, and which 
 others may also readily find without any public men- 
 tion of names. Leaviuij wave-tossed Amarinta to 
 recover from the lunging of the great lierring-boat, let 
 us take a <dance at the earlier days of Grand Menan. 
 
 Menan is an Indian word siixnifvino; an island. 
 The Passamaquoddy Indians, in response to my 
 inquiries when at their yillage, gave me seyeral 
 words of a similar sound, which all have the same 
 signilication. The island first appears in the yoyage 
 of Chamjdain in 1(j05. lie speaks of it as the island 
 called by the savages Manthane. lie is careless in the 
 spelling of this aud many other proper names. In 
 another instance he calls it Manasnc. He anchored 
 once near its southern head. Down to the period of 
 the Revolution, it appears to have been inhabited only 
 
Grand Mcnan. 
 
 ^45 
 
 age 
 
 by the Indians. A farmer near Eel I>rook gave me 
 a stone chisel tliat belonged to the aboriirinos. It 
 was ploughed uj) in a lield. During tho Kevidution 
 the Indians who resorted hitlier were allied to tlie 
 American cause. Colonel John Allan, who in 1777 
 conducted operations in Eastern Maine, a[)pears to 
 have had more or less connection with them. lie 
 speaks in his journal of sending otf Indians to tiiis 
 place, and also of issuing orders for their return. In 
 December, he sent Ensign Smith to Graml Muuan, 
 but it was the old storv, ''not beini»: able from 
 bad weather to proceed." If any white men settled 
 here piior to the declaration of peace, there is no 
 record of the fact accessible. 
 
 According to the best authority to be had just now, 
 one of the earliest settlers on the island was Closes 
 Gerrish, of Massachusetts, who adhered to the King 
 when the Revolution broke out, and was attached to 
 the commissary department of the royal army, .\tter 
 the peace, in connection with Thomas Uoss and »Iohn 
 Jones, he obtained license of occupation of this inland, 
 together with Xew lirunswick and its dependencies; 
 and, on condition of obtaining forty settlers, a sch(jol- 
 mast<n' and clergyman, within seven years of the date 
 of the license, they were to have a grant of the whole 
 from the Crown. They sold lots in anticipation of 
 the title, but in the end failed to get the gi-ant. Jones 
 returned to the United States, and Gerrish and Itoss 
 remained. Gerrish, according to Sabine, who gives 
 
Ml 
 I J 
 
 246 
 
 Grand Moian. 
 
 these facts, possessed some ability. He was described 
 by one individual as a man wlio " wonld spread mure 
 good sense on a sheet of paper" than any person of 
 his acquaintance. Still he was not very persistent, 
 and never amassed any property. He was always 
 going to do something. He was a magistrate at 
 Menan at the time of his death, which took place in 
 1830, in the eightieth year of his age. 
 
 The first habitations were very rude, but the people 
 have continued to improve the character of their 
 dwellings, until they compare very favorably with 
 structures of a corresponding character on the coast 
 of JMaiiie. 
 
 The island itself is about twenty-two miles long and 
 from three to six miles wide. It lies in the mouth of 
 the Bay of Fundy, anciently called Frenchman's Bay. 
 The furious tide for which this bay is distinguished, 
 sweeps by the shores with great force, rising eighteen 
 feet on the west side and seventeen on the east. 
 
 The highest part of the island is at its northern 
 end, where the clitfs rise four hundred feet, gradually 
 sloi)ing as they extend southward, where, at the ter- 
 minus, they are three hundred feet high. The land 
 also descends eastward until in the middle portions it 
 sinks under the sea. If the water anion ir the islands 
 on the south side were filled up, Grand 3Ienan wonld 
 form a triangular-shaijcd botly of land ; but then the 
 east coast would be as destitute of harbors as the 
 west. As it remains, the eastern shore atibrds many 
 
Grand Mcnan. 
 
 247 
 
 
 facilities to the shipping. There are ik^ clitrs 011 
 this side, except at the northern end, and in une or 
 two phiccs towards the sonth. Tlie viUair<is and roads 
 are, of course, confined to tiie Cast side. Onlv a lew 
 narrow cart-tracks extend to the west side, which is 
 generally reached by going through the woods 011 
 foot. 
 
 At the present time the inhabitants number ab(jut 
 eighteen hundred. There are not less than four hun- 
 dred dwelling-houses and five hundred buildings of all 
 other kinds. There are live societies of Jiaptists, and 
 a Church of England Parish. This is at Grand 
 Harbor. The schools at present number only three, 
 though, according to a legal provision, they may have 
 seven. The inhabitants maintain a militarv ori-ani/a- 
 tiou. The only taxes [)aid are for the county and the 
 poor. These are moderate. They hold public meet- 
 ings, and make their own local laws without let or 
 hindrance, and vote for whomsoever they [>lease to 
 represent them in Parliament. The government is 
 liberal everyway, appropriating a certain sum annu- 
 ;ally for the repair of roads, and selling the public 
 i .nds to any one who will buy them at a low figure 
 and pay the price by building a road to his own door. 
 It would do some of our blatant Republican friends 
 who indulge in so much spread-eagleism on the 
 Fourth of July, to come down to Grand 3Ienan and 
 view these institutions for themselves. On the other 
 hand, certain of the grumbling Menanites woidd do 
 
 . 
 
248 
 
 Grand Mcnan. 
 
 well to throw their nets for a season in the waters of 
 ^lassachusetts Bay, where the Cape Codder is taxed 
 thirty dollars in the thousand to keep his sandy roads 
 from being devoured by tlie wind, and wlierc the 
 State and National dues make men siek even to think 
 of them. Happy Menanites, who, free from grinding 
 taxation, now rove out from rock-bound coves, and 
 quarry at will in the silvery mine^ of the sea I 
 
 l>ut this is not all. Trade is absolutely /rec. Here 
 no smuggler waits the favorable tide, or the oblivious 
 foij, to run his contraband canoe into solitarv nooks 
 and creeks, as at Campo Bello and Lubec. No descend- 
 ant of Matthew the Publican sits at the receipt of 
 Customs to ask the nature of his freight. This port 
 is open to every market of the world. From sillv to 
 nutmei:^ all is free. Daintv damsels can buv their 
 kids at prices fabulously low, while some besides 
 Dives know that purple and line linen may be eco- 
 nomically worn, lint, speaking of kids, they are not 
 much needed here, liuckskin, for the hands, is bet- 
 ter, while among the cliffs the feet should be iron- 
 shod. 
 
 The great attraci^ion of Grand Menan, is the cliffs. 
 Of mountains there are none. The place is altogether 
 unlike Mount Desert. As has already been said, 
 when seen from the main, it appears perfectly Hat. 
 Not a hummock breaks the entire line of wall. 
 Among these clitls we daily went a •• cruising," as our 
 landlady termed it, in the vernacular of the place. 
 
Grand Moiaiu 
 
 249 
 
 An ordinary cliiT is a line tiling. To sec tlic living 
 rock that has been rent in twain by cons nl.sions, lift- 
 ing high np its scarred front, maintaining an innnttv- 
 able calm both in sunshine and storm, is always 
 impressive; but when the clilV is brought out on 
 such a stupendous scale as at Grand ^Menan, with 
 all the accessories of a wild ocean shore, the interest 
 becomes absorbing. The other parts of the islaml 
 are of course invested with much interest. The lov/ 
 eastern shore, fringed with small islands and riK'ks. 
 affords many beautiful sights. In a j>lcasant d;iy, a 
 walk southward has many charms. The bright sky, 
 the shingle beach, the jncturesque boats, and blue land- 
 locked bays continually enforce the admiration of an 
 artistic eye, and allure the pedestrian on past cape, 
 cove and reach, until he suddenly finds that miles of 
 ground intervene between him and his dinner. 
 
 But whoever comes here will desire to tra\ erse the 
 entire island and visit the regions around the southern 
 liead. Startinir from Fla<j;:u:'s Cove, the first foui miles 
 carry us over a hard road, as good as the drives in an 
 ordinary park, which skirts the shores of Long Island 
 Lay, and leaving us at Woodward's Cove, liesides the 
 village meeting house, a second is passed during this 
 stage of the journey, in addition to a small cha[,el ; for 
 whatever else there may be wanting here, there is no 
 lack of ecclesiastical establishments. At the cove 
 there is a post office and various herring establish- 
 ments, as well as a collection of dwellings. Three 
 
1 
 
 2;o 
 
 Grand Mcnan. 
 
 miles farther on is Grand Cove, a s])aeioiis but shal- 
 low harbor. Ilei'o is the English Church, a plain 
 structure of stone, uith no special attractions of any sort 
 to render it interesting. Eitualism has never invaded 
 its walls, and a good portion of one end is lilled up 
 by an enormous pulpit and reading desk of a pattern 
 suggestive of Noah's Ark. Opposite the church is the 
 school-house. I stopped here when ridir»g down the 
 island and [)icked up a sup[)ly of ammunition to salute 
 the village curs that snapped at our nag's heels ; and 
 at the same time stopped at the school-room to make 
 some inquiries about the route. Tho pedagogue was 
 within, seated upon his throne, instructing the young 
 idea how to shoot, surrounded by about twenty un- 
 kempt boys. We were invited to walk in and view 
 the school ; but as we had a long ride before us we 
 thanked the master and declined the invitation for 
 the time. We then left the line of the shore alto- 
 gether, and struck through a new road, running over 
 a piece of marshy land covered with young trees, and 
 continued until we reached Seal Cove, which is five 
 miles farther on the way. Here a brook em[)ties into 
 a wee harbor, the mouth of which is nearly closed up 
 by a wharf. Small vessels, however, manage to 
 squeeze in, and lie in safety. From thence for some 
 distance the road is quite hilly. On its most elevated 
 part was another Baptist meeting house. It being an 
 umisually warm day for Grand ]\renan, a flock of 
 sheep had assembled in its shade. They found it 
 
Grand Mcnan, 
 
 2;r 
 
 grateful. Fiirtlier on ;ve had a view of the ooeaii ;iii<l 
 tlio iieigliboring isles, nhile at the same time ilic 
 woods retreated and left an open down sprinkled ujih 
 slieep. Tlie prospect here reminded me of >()nic liiiL-.s 
 from Dyer: 
 
 " Such arc tlio downs of Baustcnd, 0(l/,''d with woods, 
 And tow'ry villas; Midi Dorcotiinn lields, 
 Whose' flocks iuniun'roiH wiiitcn all tlic hiiid; 
 Such those shjw climbing wilds, that lead tiic fctcp 
 Insensibly to Dover'8 windy dill". 
 Tremendous liciglit! and such tlieclovcrcd lawns 
 And sunny mounts of beauteous ^'ormanton." 
 
 Crossing this place we descended when the road 
 again returned to the line of the shore, which here 
 holds up to the sea a high ].er[)endicular wall. At 
 the end of fourteen miles from Flagg's C(jve, we 
 rciiched the house of Mr. Walter B. .McLaughlin, a 
 son of an old Waterloo veteran, and one of the li\e 
 men of Menan. Here, like Goldsmith's hrokeii sol- 
 dier, we were '-kindly bade to stay," and accepted an 
 invitation to pass the night. 
 
 Mr. McLauglilin is the keeper of the famous Ganiu't 
 Rock Lighthouse, and holds other appoititmeiits under 
 the Dominion. Thoroughly true to Her ]\Lij\st\'. the 
 Queen, he is at the same time heartily in syinjiatliv 
 with the loyal people of the L^iited States, and intel- 
 ligently follows them iu all their conflicts. The light- 
 house of which he has the charge may be seen in 
 clear weather, a mere speck out at sea. It stands 
 upon a small rock, just large enough to receive the 
 
252 
 
 Grand Me nan. 
 
 establishment, wliicli comb'iies beacon and dwelling in 
 one. Access to the rock can be had onlv ii\ calm 
 weather, coiiscijuently in the winter season, in com- 
 pany with his family, he is a fast prisoner, not having 
 so much as a foot of ground to walk on, and the waves 
 ever thundcrinij aujainst the wall. It beiiiir hne 
 weather, I chanced to find him ashore, directing his 
 haying, and obtained some of the local statistics. The 
 situation of his land home is extremely fine, as the 
 breakers dush continually against the rocks only a 
 few yards from the door. 
 
 Two miles further south is Deep Cove, where a 
 brawlini;, dark-brown brook comes out tlnouiih an 
 opening in a sea-wall thrown up by the waves across 
 its mouth. From this point the road goes on l)ut a 
 short distance before it terminates. The pedestrian 
 must then push on through paths for the rest of the 
 distance to the Southern Head. Here he will come 
 upon the clifis, and find the rocks thrown up in the 
 wildest confusion. Pintor and his friend found much 
 sameness in them as rock studies. One of the most 
 remarkable objects here is an isolated rock, or drong, 
 resembliuL'" the iiixure of a colossal woman. It is 
 known as tliC Old Maid, and is found on the west side 
 of the head. It excites more admiration than the 
 general class known by the name. It has no tongue. 
 The other princi[)al point of interest found in tliis 
 vicinity is Bradford's Cove. It is readied by a path 
 through the woo(ts. In an eastc'-ly gale it is a pluco 
 
Grand Mcnan. 
 
 "DO 
 
 of safety, yet at the time of our visit (lie masts of a 
 lost sliip, tlie Mavoureen, were seen risiiii^ just above 
 the top of the waves. Around tlie clil!s of the Souf horu 
 Head is a favorite nestiuir nhice for the ixulls, whieli lav 
 their gray eggs, splashed witli brown, in rude nests, 
 contrived with little care amonij the ijjrass. Tliev are 
 also found in one or two of the islands near by. The 
 Indians take the younix ixidls and carry them a\vay. 
 I saw several of them at Pleasant Point that had been 
 thus torn from the parental nest at Grand Menan. 
 Thev were tamer than chickens, and were beinijj fat- 
 tened on porpoise for some future feast. 
 
 Audubon visited Grand ]Menan in May, 1833, and 
 landed at White Head Island, the property of ]Mr. 
 Frankland, where he inspected the herring gulls, 
 then breedinix in jjreat numbers. Ilis account of these 
 birds is of much interest, lie savs : " We immedi- 
 ately set out in search of them, directing our ccnirse 
 toward the pine wood, in which we were informed we 
 should lind them. As we came up to the place I 
 observed that many of the gulls had alighted on the 
 fir trees, while a vast number were sailing around, and 
 when we advanced, the former took to wing, aban- 
 doninix their nests and all llew auout utterinjjj inces- 
 sant cries. I was greatly surprised to see the nests 
 placed on branches, some near the top, others about 
 the middle or on the lower parts of the trees, while at 
 the same time there were many on the ground. It is 
 true I had been informed of this by our captain, but 
 
254 
 
 Grand Mcna7t. 
 
 I had almost believed that on arriving at the spot I 
 sliould find the birdj not to be gulls. My doubts, how- 
 ever, were now dispelled, and I was delighted to see 
 how nature had provided them with the means of 
 securing thair eggs from their arch-enemy, man. ]My 
 delight was greatly increased on being afterwards 
 informed by Mr. Frankhind that the strange habit in 
 question had been acquired by the gulls within his 
 recollection ; for, said he, ' when I first came here, 
 many yeai's ago, they all built their nests on the moss 
 and in 0})en ground ; but as my sons and the fisher- 
 men collected most of their eixijjs for winter use, and 
 sadly annoyed the poor things, the old ones gradually 
 began to put up their nests on the trees in the thick- 
 est part of the woods. The youngest birds, however, 
 still have some on the gi'ound, and on the whole are 
 becomini; le>s wild since I have forbidden strangers to 
 rob their nests ; f jr, gentlemen, you are the only per- 
 sons out of my family that have fired a gun on White 
 Head Island for several years past.' I was much 
 pleased with the humanity of our host, and requested 
 him to let me know when all the gulls, or the greater 
 part of them would abandon the trees and resume 
 their former mode of breeding on the ground, which 
 he i)romised to do. But I afterwards found that this 
 was not likely to happen, because on some other 
 islands not far distant, to which the fishermen aud 
 eggers have free access, these gulls breed altogether 
 on the trees, even when their eiiixs ivud vounir are 
 
Grand Mcnaii. 
 
 
 regularly reiiGwetl every year, so tliat their oiiginal 
 ]ial)its have been entirely given u[t. Some oi tlie 
 nests which I saw were placed at the height of more 
 tliaii forty feet on the trees ; others, seen in thii tliiok- 
 est part of tlie woods, were eiglit or ten feet from tlie 
 ground, and were placed close to the main stem, 
 so as to be v/ith dilliculty observed. It was tiuly 
 curious to see the broad-winged birds make their way 
 to and from them in these secluded retreats. The 
 nests placed on tlie ground w^ere several yards apart, 
 and measured from fifteen to eiijhteen inches in diam- 
 eter, their cavity being from four to six. The lower 
 stratum consisted of grass, plants of various kinds, 
 moss and grey lichens, and the whole was lined with 
 line bent, l)ut without any feathers. Those on the 
 trees measured from twentv-four to twentv-six inches 
 in diameter externally, and were composed of the 
 sani'? material, but in greater quantity, the object of 
 which 1 thought might be to allow more space to the 
 young while growing, as they could enjoy the pleasure 
 of running about like those hatched on the ground. 
 Perhaps, however, the smaller size of the nests i)laced 
 there mav be owiiiix to their belon^ini,' to tln^ vounirer 
 gulls, as I have often observed tliat the older the indi- 
 vidual the larger is the nest. About the beginning of 
 May the ITerring gulls collect into great lh)cks for the 
 purpose of re[)roducing, and betake themselves to tlie 
 laicre sand-bars or mud-liats at low water. With the 
 aid of a glass you may sec them going through their 
 
156 
 
 Grand Mcnan, 
 
 courtsliips; the males swell their throats, walk proudly 
 about, tlirow tlieh' h(}a<ls upwards, and emit their love 
 ii:)tcs. These general meetings take place at all hours 
 of the day according to the state of the tide, and con- 
 tinue for about a fortnight, when they all depart and 
 l)etake themselves to the island where they breed." 
 
 Leavinjx this i^xrt of Grand ^Nlenau w*th many 
 reuf.ets, we returned to Flaijix's Cove to examine that 
 region with more care. 
 
 One day, when an easterly gale was blowing, Pin- 
 tor and I improved the occasion to walk around 
 Sprague's Co\e and Swallow Tail Light. Three 
 fourths of a mile northward brouirht us to the cliffs 
 sourli of the cove, and following these we reached the 
 shore of (he plac'e in question. All the way along 
 tliov arc ixrandlv shattered and wave-worn, nreseiitinir 
 perfect pictures at every step. Tlie sight of harebells 
 and wild roses drenched by the salt spray, and still 
 h;)lding on against the gale in some crevice half way 
 d )wn the clilf, taught a lesson of confidence. 
 
 Sprague's Cove itself presents the most com[)lete 
 view of a llshinix hamlet that I have anvwhen^ found. 
 Evury;hing likewise appears to have been arranged 
 for artistic ellect. The old boats, the tumble-down 
 srore-hou^es, the picturesque costumes, the; breaking 
 sui'f, and all the miscellaneous paraphernalia of such 
 a place, set off as thev arc bv the noble back-irround 
 of richly-c;)lored clifls, ]iro(luce an ett'ect that is as 
 rare as beautiful. Certainlv no artist should under- 
 
Grand Mcnan. 
 
 ^S7 
 
 own 
 vinu 
 ;ucli 
 [und 
 lis 
 klor- 
 
 take to depict scenes of this character before lie has 
 Stiulied Spragiie's Cove. AVo viewed it in all its 
 aspects on this stormy day, noted the best points to 
 sketch from the coming summer ; and then began to 
 climb the south side of Swallow Tail Head, which 
 here spreads out eastward into the sea, taking the 
 form of the caudal appendage belonging to the said 
 bird. The tide being down, we first passed through a 
 huge passage eaten out of a projecting bastion of the 
 clilf. Afterwards we climbed straight up over (he 
 fallen rocks. When half way up we looked back and 
 saw in the face of the clitf throu'di which we had 
 passed, a striking prolile that bore so strong a resem- 
 blance to the face of Washini^ton that we knew Victo- 
 ria would not object for a m^nnent to our naming it 
 "Washington's Cliff." This we did, and so, gentle 
 reader, when you go to Sprague's Cove next sununer, 
 please use your (potent) inliuence to help make the 
 name stick. 
 
 Nearing the top of the cliff, we began to under- 
 stand how one or two men of the Ashburton's crew 
 got up Eel Brook rocks ; for, when within a few feet 
 of the top, the force of the gale well nigh lifted us 
 up, withmit any effort on our part. Once on the top, 
 we walked along on the greensward out towards the 
 light-hou.-^e, breasting the heavy gale. The point 
 upon which it stands is se[)arated from the rest of the 
 head by a horrid chasm, crossed by a narrow bridge. 
 There is first a steep descent, before the bridge can 
 
258 Grand Mcnaji. 
 
 be reached. To make this safe, an anchor with a 
 rope attached is planted in the ground at the top. 
 Holding firml}' to this, we cautiously went down and 
 crossed the bridge, all the while with the irale tuirixin"" 
 at our legs and trying to carry them off. Passing 
 the lighthouse and climbing out to the extremity of 
 the rocks, Pintor inserted himself in a crevice, like a 
 Lermit-ciab in his shell, and made several pencil 
 sketches, one of which was a fishing schooner under 
 double reefs, beating around into the cove. The 
 skipper's (piick eye detected us in our hiding-places, 
 as his vessel passed under the cliffs, pitching like a 
 porpoise, and held on to the maui shrouds while he 
 swung his "sou'wester" for a salute. In the evening 
 he came ashore to our cottage, and regaled us with 
 the account of the wonderful "sea-serpent," which 
 had just been captured (by the newspai)ers) at Lake 
 Utopia, together with the account of the serpent at 
 Eagle Lake in Mount Desert, which has already been 
 referred to. In the midst of this irale a lishin<r ves- 
 sel was out all day on the " Klpplings," a dangerous 
 place several miles at sea, where they seined forty 
 barrels of herring. Such facets tell us soniethinir of 
 the great courage and uncompromisinir perseverance 
 of these lishermen, who constantly brave danger in 
 every form. 
 
 Leavitt, in one of his porms, gives us an admirable 
 picture of the scene at 8 wallow-Tail Light in a 
 stormy day ; 
 
Grand Mcnan, 259 
 
 "The picture view! what wild sublimity ! 
 Omnipotonce has waked and \n\\\\\ tiie storm, 
 Tos.<iii<r the deep to tumult. Uound that tower, 
 Iii.«iu^' detiaiit on its ocean-rock, 
 Dashes the maniac wave, whoso flyin;? spray 
 Hung liigli in air, beloro tlio tempest streams, 
 Win'io seabirds circle on exultant wing, 
 Silent and calm, above the roar and foam 
 Of battling elements." 
 
 Another point at this end of the ishmd that will 
 bear repeated visits is Wluile Cove, where we lirst 
 landed. Tlie shingle beacli extends entirely aeross 
 tlie bottom of the cove, and is very higli and broad. 
 Originally the water extended nearJj,' if not quite 
 through, to Flagg's Cove, where the ground is n..w 
 occupied by a meadow. But the waves, in their 
 haste to swallow up the land, quite defeated them- 
 selves, and in their fury threw up a barrier wliich 
 they could not overpass ; thus illustrating the habits 
 of those men who always stand in the way of their 
 own advancement. 
 
 On this beacli are found some extremely fine peb- 
 bles of porphyry, jasper, and agate, besides other min- 
 erals that the collectors will be glad to bring away. 
 In clear calm weather this place has a wonderful 
 attraction. On the east side is Fi>li Head, and on the 
 west Eel Brook and Northern Head, the latter ex- 
 tending out beyond its neighbor, and between are the 
 blue sky and water. At low tide, the nnco\'ered 
 beach allows the rambler to stray as far as Y.nX Cove, 
 but it is idle to attempt to go farth<3r, without ascend- 
 
26o 
 
 Grand Menan. 
 
 ing the clifls and following along the escari)iiient. 
 Starting from AVliale Cove, we found the line of 
 cliffs continually rising. Its geological character is 
 also variable. A large portion of the rock shows 
 signs of stratification, but there are also immense 
 masses of trap-rock, a great deal of which takes the 
 basaltic character of Giant's Causeway, the regularly- 
 formed columns standing closely packed. Among the 
 trap-rock we found small specimens of native copper. 
 Masses of this material, of a dozen pounds we^ght, 
 have been found in the fields above the shore. One 
 of the natives, who saw us hammering among the 
 rocks, seemed to think that we were speculators spy- 
 ing out the land, lie accordingly took an ax, came 
 after us, and rendered good service in splitting open 
 the trap. If anything was going on, he evidently 
 wanted to have a hand in it, and to share the prize. 
 Eventually he concluded that we knew no more 
 about what was to be found in the rocks than he did. 
 Assured of this, he returned to swing a scythe in a 
 neiiihboriniij field. 
 
 On one of those extremely foggy days, such as 
 occur here too often, Pintor and I took a long ramble 
 under the clifls among the slip])ery rocks that lie at 
 their base, and found it a fatiguing work, though we 
 thought it iKiid. This time we had none of those 
 
 " Bliic-l)ayred dels 
 That drcario hang o'er Dovcr'b emblauiiched clefs," 
 
sr 
 
 !• 
 
 Grand Moian. 
 
 261 
 
 I)ut the gciHiiiie ^NFenan fo^, direct from the r,r;iiRl 
 liank. It was so (kuiso as to bo perftujtly oppressive, 
 while the line of vision was hoiiiulod hy the escarj)- 
 meiit of the clitfs and the breakinix snif ch)se l»v on 
 the sliore. We conl<l not see tlie ocean, yet from ont 
 a:i impenetrable vail it lannched its booming tlnmder, 
 rollini; sullenly aijainst these lonix adamantine walls, 
 and lining us at times with a kind of inddinable 
 dread and awe. Still, we knew the ways of tl.v. tide, 
 and felt confident that there was no danger to be 
 apprehended from the ''bore," which, liigher n[) the 
 l>ay of Fnndy, puts men on the seashore in peril of 
 tlieir lives. Therefore, we scrambled on among the 
 rocks and heaps of drift-wood, of which there is 
 enough on every beach to gladden ihe hearts of all 
 the poor widows in New York. As we passed along, 
 we noted the i)lace where two waterfalls ordinarily 
 belong. Only one was now to be seen coming down 
 the cliff, reduced almost to a thread, and s[)inning 
 itself into a veil of airy lace before reachinii- the hot- 
 bottom. I consoled myself for the failure of the 
 water with a reilection of Dr. Johnson at the em[»ty 
 Fall of Tiers — Nature never jjjives everything at 
 once. Here we turned and pui'sued the homeward 
 way, lea\iiig the cliiis behind us like grand melancholy 
 ghosts, doomed to haunt the fog forever. 
 
 It was a far dill'erent day that we dedicated to 
 Indian Beach, on the west side of the island, and the 
 resort of the rassama(|Uoddy Indians. It is full four 
 
252 
 
 Grand Mcuan. 
 
 miles from FIm^^i^'s Cove, and in going tliithcr it will 
 not i)rove amiss to lake a boat at Whale Cove and 
 sail around, on account of the ditFiculty of the walk. 
 Amarinta, Tintor aiid I took a wagon as far as the 
 head of Eel Brook, where the road running across the 
 island ends. The rest of the journey was done on 
 loot. From the end of the road we moved westward 
 and crossed J^^el Brook, a stream that runs from its 
 Hource in a little lal^e near by, to the cove, where it is 
 lost in the sea. At the brook is a little mill, o.ie of 
 eleven that in the wet season do the sawing of ^lenan. 
 The rest of the way to the shore lies through a wood- 
 path, where we found several of the l)ark lodges that 
 form the winter camps <;f the Indian hunter. There 
 is still considerable game here, though for the past 
 three years the hunting of deer has been strictly pro- 
 hibited. But Indians, and certain of the iMhabitants, 
 have no regard for the law. There is (piite a large 
 number of deer on the island. Our landlady told 
 us that the previous summer she suddenly came face 
 to face with one of the e antlered beauties, who, 
 after looking at her until he was throroughly satis- 
 fied, turr.ed and capered away into the woods. Mr. 
 Gcrri.sh, the old settler already alluded to, brought 
 a pair of moose to the island and dismissed them to 
 the woods. In course of time they multiplied to such 
 an extent that moose were (piite i)lenty. In 1818 no 
 less than a dozen were killed. They have now be- 
 (.'omc exlinct. 
 
Grand .Ifcnaii. 
 
 263 
 
 Xotwithsfaiidiiig the distance from the mainland, 
 the deer occasionally swim across to Jind a ivt'ii-ro 
 from the dogs who are feared more than the sMrning 
 sea. Of the fact itself there can be no donbt. If 
 I.oander swam the Jldlespont for liis love, what 
 may not a [)owerfuI deer do for his life? Still, 
 it is after all diiHcult to conceive of the exact mental 
 state of an animal that plunges into the surf at \Vest 
 (^{iioddy, and breasts the furious tide to reach the low 
 purple wall that he discovers nine miles over the 
 waves. How does he know that there is land there? 
 He may scent it, but do not conclude that he knov/.s 
 it, though his eye may be more telescopic than ours. 
 This perhaps is the solution : as a drownin<-- man 
 catches at a straw, so a hotly-pressed buck, hearing' 
 the panting of the hound, accepts what resend)Ies the 
 Highlands of Neversink as a sanctuary. He is a 
 <piick-witted, sensible creature, and when he sees that 
 he has but*one chance, he takes that one chance, and 
 makes the most of it. The crew of the Keveiiue 
 Cutter lately caught a noble fellow in this i<len(ical 
 mood, when he was about half-way over, and hauled 
 him on board. I did not hear the se<piel ; but let 
 us ];icture the jolly tars as endowed with their tradi- 
 tional generosity, which leads them to admire coura-re 
 n\ misfortune, and not less kind than the sea. As 
 fjr the Indians, they have as little regard f>r mercy 
 a^ fjr law ; and, statute or no statute, thev will 
 have the venison and pelt. In these little lodges that 
 
2u4 
 
 Grand Mciian. 
 
 wc were just speiking of, tliey Crouch around tlio 
 lire kindled in tlio middle on the ground, iind doom 
 the ircntlo fawns to deatli. We looked into several 
 and found the forked sticks that serve as pot-hooks 
 still suspended from above. The coming winter they 
 will doubtless return, and then more than one desper- 
 ate buck will take his death-leap down the clills of 
 Grand JMenan. 
 
 Passing these lodges, the path eventually ends in 
 the open Holds near the cliiFs, and here is a most con- 
 venient break, where we descended to th(3 beach. 
 This place is known as Long's Eddy, as the tide sees 
 fit, on reaching this part of the coast, to imitate the 
 playfulness of a kitten chasing her tail. Here, too, the 
 herring sports in search of smaller fry, which become 
 Ids pi-ey. Dut the herring, in turn, becomes the prey 
 of the i)orpoise, and the porpoise the prey of the 
 Indian, and the Indian the prey of the Jil factor. 
 Where the law of retribution ends I cannot say, but 
 sometimes it certainly reaches the dupes in the grease 
 department of Wall Sti-eet. 
 
 From this point the way was open noi-thward alon^- 
 the beach to the line crags of Bishoi)'s Head. Close 
 by, a shingle beach projects like a ihiitened V, leaving 
 behind it, at the foot of the cliffs, a small lake, on 
 the border of which, within the reach of the salt 
 spray, were several nourishing lirs. It was very 
 trustful in the trees to grow here. 
 
 Opposite, towards the mainland, wc saw where the 
 
Grand Mcnan, 
 
 265 
 
 Fenians, during their invasion, sunk a vessel; and 
 lookir.g southward along the coast, a white beaeh 
 glimmered in the afternoon sun. We judged it a 
 mile and a half distant, and set out to walk there, as 
 the tide was now far enough down. Tiie first half of 
 the distance was easily accomplished, as there is a 
 broad strip of beach covered with small stones, but 
 the rest of the distance is extremely hard. As we 
 were plodding along, a whale — 
 
 " Loviatlmii. wliich Cod of nil His works 
 Created hugest that swim the ocean f^trenm," 
 
 vouchsafed to pay his respects, rearing his dark sides 
 above the waves with infinite ease and <n-ace. 
 
 Nearing our destination, the difhcnlties of the route 
 increased, as the shore was piled with boulders vary- 
 ing in size from a barrel to a small cottage, many of 
 which were moist and slippery. It was a severe trial 
 for Amarinta, and our slow progress enabled Pintoi-, 
 who was more nimble of foot, to stop occasional) v an(l 
 sketch the forms of the rocks, which are magnificently 
 colored, and great treasures iov a sea-side p-tdnter. 
 
 Finally every difficulty was passed, and we stepped 
 upon the smooth shore of Indian Beach. Here are 
 the lodges of the Indians, built chiefly of bark, and 
 kept in place by large stones laid on the roofs and 
 against the sides. It was a windy afternoon and 
 unlit for i)orpoise hunting. 
 
 It ha.i been already stated that these LuvIrjis belong 
 
266 
 
 Grand Mcnan. 
 
 to tlie Piissama4iiO(l(ly tribe al)ont whom some facts 
 may not prove unacceptable. Fatlio" Vctromile says 
 tliat the name is a coi-rui)tion of Feskamaquontik, 
 from tlic name l*eska(buninkkanti, it goes np into tJte 
 open ficl'U and not fiom tlie word (Jiioddy, liaddovh^ 
 as commonly su[)i)ose(l. Their ancient village was 
 on the liiitish territory now occupied by St. Andrews. 
 Tbev lo^t their lands, and for some time le<l a roving 
 life, but linally hu»d was granted them at Sijhaikf 
 Pleasant l*oiiit, 3Iaine. This is about five miles 
 above Ka^t}»ort, though a small company afterward 
 lixed their abode at Lewis' I>laiul. The latter belouix 
 to the so-called "New Party," which s[)rang into 
 existence during a controversy about their governor 
 or chief. Tliev number about four hundred and forty, 
 and draw an annuitv from the irovernment. Their 
 houses are comfoitably built, though not in all cases 
 neatly kept. At the time 1 visited tlieir village the 
 house of the governor was undergoing repairs, and 
 the Indians had aKo com[)leted a "hall," which they 
 use for dancing, au amusement of which they are 
 immoderately foi. , and in which ho{.\\ grown persons 
 and ohildien indulge until the su\all hours jome, ani- 
 mated bv a hddle or life. 
 
 The ?5chool, su[)[)orted by the Board of lOducatioi?, 
 numbers about thirty-live scholars, but wlien 1 looked 
 into the schoobhouse tliere were only live or six pres- 
 ent. The master apologized for the thin attendance, 
 saying ihaL they all went to the dunce the previous 
 
 i 
 
Grand Me nan. 
 
 267 
 
 night. It is impossible to put them under tinv set 
 (lisci[)line. About eleven o'clock, the scholars, many 
 of whom are twenty year^ old, began to come in one 
 l)y one, looking tired and sleepy. They study little, 
 but make up for their lack of industry bv "■i<'-..Tiii.r 
 It is im;)ossil)le to force thom. Yet some ai'e <|uite 
 proficient, and the master called upon one bri«dit look- 
 ing little girl, whose English name was .Maiy, to 
 spell some words in her Trimer for the edilication of 
 Amarinta and myself. lint ]Mary was unused to 
 strangers, and on being urged gently she hid her face 
 in her hands and burst into tears. AVe were (piite 
 sorry for being the cause of grief, and tried all man- 
 ner of blandishments to win her confidence, includin«»- 
 a lavish outlay of small coin; vet while prudently 
 holding on to the cash with one hand she covered her 
 face with the other, and was inconsolable. AVe <r;ivo 
 it up at last and went to look into the church, dedi- 
 cated to St. Anne. It is neat in its appearance, 
 though profusely adorned with meretricious prints, 
 such as iind their way into the poorer class of Ivo- 
 man churches. Attached is a house for the priest. 
 The Indians are, of course, devout Ivomanists, and 
 several of their number have been nuu^e deacons ; 
 un olhce whicli they support in accordance with the 
 Indian ideas of digniiv and decorinn. Their bui-vin«r 
 g-ound on the hill->ide at Tleasant Point, presents 
 those picUires(iue features which ordinarily beloiif^ to 
 the aborigines who hold t); Kumun faith. Each 
 
268 
 
 Grand Menan. 
 
 grave is liouscd witli wood, and luigc crosses lift tliem- 
 selvcs up from iithr. Tlie l)raiich wliich settled at 
 Lewis' Island also have a church dedicated to St. 
 Anne. 
 
 A^, all seasons of the year the people are more or 
 less scattered, beinix enijftiwd in ImntiniT, Hsliinir and 
 ha'^ivcit-niakini.!;. Jii the latter employment they do 
 not excL'L The Indian blood is by no means pure, 
 beinir much corrupted bv an infusion of French. But 
 their laces are well bronzed, and the most of them are 
 sudlciently savage in their aspect. But let us return 
 to Menan. 
 
 Here ou the IxwcHi we found quite a colony. A 
 part of them spoke Kngli>h. Tlieir canoes, linely 
 built, and worth fi'om twentv-five to lifrv dollars 
 apiece, were drawn up in a row ou the sand. Some 
 of the men were trying out }»orp(.)ise oil, and others 
 were maiving or re[)airing the vai ions im[>lements of 
 their craft; while several children w'cre playing with 
 d()i:;s. It was a no\el scene, indeed, with the noblo 
 back-ground of clilfs crowned with dark ijreeu fjliaije. 
 Piutor accordingly [)ulled out his ^ketcii book, and 
 ra[>i(lly transferred the i)icture to its pages, a knot of 
 tliese savages all the while looking over his shoulder, 
 and expressing their admiration or sur[)ri.se with a 
 ^runt. For myself I made in([iilries about the })or- 
 [)oises and the mode of catching them, while Ama- 
 rinta spake with the women concerning baskets. 
 
 'J'hclr custom Is to shoot them with a riile, and, 
 
 
 (M 
 
 t 
 
Grand McuajL 
 
 169 
 
 before they have time to sink, jiuddlc up and make fast 
 with a hmce, when tlie creature i.-, dead taking him 
 into the canoe. I afterwards saw them at their work. 
 One Indian sat at the stern of the canoe, usini^r ],j^ 
 paddle as easily as a fish does liis lins, and another, 
 rilie in hand, stood at the how. And mIio is this 
 dark comphixioned, small hodied, hut lirndv kidt In- 
 dian, with an eye like a snake, stealthily searchini; 
 the waves for his prev and clntchini: his rille with 
 such a bignilicaiit grasp ? I thoHfjht I had seen liim 
 before. This is the Reverend 'I'onnna Denni, I)eac(jn 
 of the Holy Roman Catholic Church. \^ Ik; could 
 scent, a heresy as he tracks a i^orpoise, he would 
 answer as an examiner of the LnpiiNition. Vitv the 
 porpoise upon whom he " draivs a bead" for he is as 
 good as in the try-pot. The Reverend Tomma libhes 
 for both i)or[)oises and men. 
 
 Some distance south is Dark Cove, a place marked 
 by many romantic features. The liaihor, f)rmed by 
 the sea wall, is about a mile loni;-, and half a mih; 
 wide. In 18 IG a channel was cut, when the sea 
 rushed in with a loud roar and raised the level of the 
 water eight feet, giving, ordinarily, a «l.'ptii of fn.m 
 live to nine fathoms. On the landward side of the 
 harbor is a clearing uf lif;y acres. In 1<S.j2 one John 
 Sinclair had been living in this lonely spot for (piar- 
 ter of a century. Vcsseh: can enter the harbor at 
 about two hours from high water. Here thev li(} in 
 perfect safety. This is a lumhering station, and has 
 
2/0 Grand iMcjian, 
 
 few residents, except at the busy Ficasoii of the year. 
 The path thither lies throui^h tlic woods, and, nearer 
 at hand, is ]Money Cove, where search has been made 
 for (lie treasures of the inevitable Kidd, who was 
 sacrificed by the politicians to save the reputation of 
 Lord Somers and the Earl of Bellomont, and m horn 
 popular tradition wrongly represents as a comnaon, 
 blood-ihirsty pirate. The old song does not even 
 give Kidd's name correctly, (much less any true idea 
 of his character), making him say — 
 
 " My name was Uohcrt Kidd, as 1 sailed," 
 
 instead of \\ illiam. 
 
 At this place a brook flows down between two cliffs, 
 and a couple of old \nAU are thought to belong to 
 some ancient French settlers. 
 
 It was im[>ossible to visit these places now, and 
 therefore we cast about us to devise our return. At 
 this juncture a lucky thought occurred to Amarinta. 
 The Indians should carry us back to Long's Kddv in 
 a canoe. It would save that climb among the roc.»s, 
 and be so romantic. A bargain was thei'efore struck 
 on the spo',, two ludians then carried down a canoe, 
 Pintor [»ul his .^ketch-book in his pocket, and '^ve all 
 carefuUv iiot aboard, stowinix ourselves away at the 
 bottom. One of our cop[>er-colored brethren sat in 
 the bows and braced up the mast which had a large 
 Bpritsail attached, while the other steered and held 
 the sheet in his hand. A fresh breeze was now blow- 
 
Grand Mcjian, 
 
 2;[ 
 
 ing along the shore, and no sooner was the canoe fi re 
 from tlie bear:h than it flew away before the wind lil^e 
 an arrow. This was really more like sailing than 
 anything I had ever experienced before in niv lifs 
 and we glided almost noiselessly for a mile and a 
 half, with nothing bnt a thin piece of birch-bark bt- 
 tweea us and the deep Bay of Fnndy. The clilfs 
 went past as the railway stations Hit by an express 
 train, and before we were aware of the fact the canoe 
 safely touched the shore at Long's Eddy. 
 
 As a i)Iace of summer resort. Grand .IMenan is in 
 some respects unecpialled. At certain seasons the i^.^^ 
 is abundant, yet that can be endured. Here tiie 
 opportunities for recreation are unlimited, and all 
 persons fond of grand seashore views may indulge 
 their taste without limit. 
 
 The people are invariably kind and trustworthy, 
 and American manners and habits prevail to such aii 
 extent that travellers at once feel at home. Thev 
 generally take a lively interest in American afihirs, 
 and are well informed on the principal political (jues- 
 tions. During the late Uebellion uiany -skedad- 
 lers," as the Menanites call them, took refuge licre, 
 generally coming over in stolen boats. They wcie' 
 not highly respected, and the general opinion *is that 
 they stole about as many boats when they left as 
 when they came. 
 
 This will never b.come a fashionable resort. The 
 magnificent Mrs. All-pork, of All-pork I'lace, ^^•ould 
 
2/2 
 
 Grand Mcnan. 
 
 take litile comfort horo. ILn* trains would not (Iraaixle 
 well anionic tlio rocks, and she would ask to go homo 
 by the first boat. Yet [)crsons of refined taste, who 
 desire to esca;)e fi'om the stereotyped insipidity of tiie 
 fashional)le watering place, and are willing to take 
 such fare as the ishmd affords, may spend a pleasant 
 month here in the summer. For a number o£ years 
 it has been a favorite haunt of artists, as the walls of 
 the Academy bear witness. The albums of the younij 
 ladies hereabouts are full of their photographs, all the 
 prominent artists of the country being represented. 
 As some may feel curious on the subject of expense, 
 I mav mention that six. or seven doHars is the ordi- 
 nary fare from Uoston, and that half-a-didlar a dav in 
 gold will cover the cost of diet, such as it is. 
 
 lUit our sojourn in this paradise of clilfs came to 
 an end, and v/e were obliged to leave. So, the 
 reader may })erha'ps desire to know how we got back 
 to the mainland. AVe had expected to taivc the 
 "Wednesday packet, but fearing that the wind might 
 not serve, we left on the Monday previous. About 
 nine o'clock we went down to the beach and saw a 
 vessel sailing out of the cove, and learned that she 
 was bound to East[)ort. Tlie v.ind was light, and 
 therefore could we overtake her in a row-boat? 
 
 Then spake Goodman Stanton, a fisherman of curi- 
 ous genealogy, in whom Cape Cod, Ca[)e Ann and 
 Mount Desert were wondrously mixed up, and who 
 often unconsciously posed for the artists visiting the 
 
Grand .}rc;i(vi. 
 
 "/ 6 
 
 sliore. ^7o conl.l IkihUv ratcl, tl,r vos.rl imu from 
 tliis place, ],nt if we stMrf.l ,,ir t.. Whale C.ve. we 
 might gcf aboard when slhM'aine aroinid tV,.ni SwmN 
 l'>\v Tail Head; very lik^^ly we ,-„ul.L And 1..^ 
 guessed that they would stop and take us ahoanl. 
 
 Ir was a heautilid day for tiie voya-e,an.l >., I >,h,i, 
 packed up. put Ainarinta aii.l the lu-i:ai;v info the 
 wn-on. start<:d „fr old !i..an linipin- towards the 
 cove; and. l,i,ldin,-(,ur kind landkady adieu, foUowed 
 after on foot, leaving our artist-friends to l.rin- up the 
 rear. '"^ 
 
 Before all the party reael.e<l the shon. of tin; 
 cove, the hreeze sprang up, an.l the expected vessel 
 came hi sight, passing on he,- way. [ a<-eonlini:ly 
 started a coui,le of lishernien in a light hoat, to head 
 lier oil; an.l p..rsuad(; tin; skipper to wait. 'I'he 
 schooner was no.v a full ndle from shon-, hut they 
 si)rai.g to their work and wen^ soon half-wav nut, 
 ^vhen they stopped, ].ut their jackets on their\>ar.,' 
 and waved them as a signal, hallooinn- at the same 
 time with all their might. Of this the skipper took 
 no notice and sailed merrily on his wav. Again, 
 therc'fore, they pli,,,! tla^ oars, and at tiie rnd n|' 
 '^•»«"l»<'i- quarter of a mih^ stopped and went through 
 ' «tdl more lunatic p<M-formance. This was too nmeh 
 for the skipper, and he accordingly hove to and 
 waited for them to come alongside. ' Then we saw 
 the boat leave them, and the schooner headed off,, nee 
 more ou the course to Kastport. AVe now thoii<dit 
 
274 
 
 Grand Menan. 
 
 that o\ir embassy had failed ; hut it turned out that 
 Goodmau Stanton knew best; for as soon as the 
 schooner got steerage way again, the skipper put the 
 liehn down, brought his craft to, hauled the jib-sheet 
 to the windward, and so wore round and stood for the 
 slKjre. In ten minutes more we were all on the deck 
 of the /'V«s//, an English lishing smack of thirty tons, 
 bound for a cargo of salt. At the helm stood a 
 middle-aged man with a curious droop about one eye, 
 whom I took fur a well-to-do factor of fish ; but I 
 (mentally) cried his mercy when I happened to dis- 
 cover that, instead, he was a lislier of men. Yester- 
 day, with the form of sound words, and in some one 
 of the ecclesiastical centres of the island, he had 
 divided the attention of certain ^lenanites with a 
 ^lormon elder, who was abroad even here doing the 
 bi<hlinir of his master at Salt Lake. 
 
 The deck was covered with barrels of herring, but 
 we found room to bestow ourselves upon the trunks. 
 Contrary to our expectations, the breeze held fresh, 
 and the schooner sailed swiftly past the headlands 
 for the east side of Campo liello. On our way we 
 had one of the finest exhibitions of mirage ever wit- 
 nessed on tliis coast, which has already been referred 
 to in the chMi)ter on fog. In three hours we were at 
 the mouth of Kastport harbor, when the favorable tide 
 caught us and swept us swiftly up to the town. 
 
 Our trip from the Isles of Shoals to Grand Menan 
 is now ended :. but next to the satisfaction taken in 
 
fwm 
 
 !t 
 
 Grand Menan. 
 
 27: 
 
 uTitin.^r tliese notes will l,e tl.e pleasure of .Icm.ir it 
 over jigai.i; for scenes like those tlirongh wl.ich^ve 
 have wandered can never cloy, but will retain a per- 
 renial freshness after repeated visits and the lapse of 
 years. 
 
i^ 
 
 4 
 
t 
 
 APPEXDIW 
 
 I. 
 
 THE FREXCII SKTTLKMKNT. 
 Since tlic body of tliis wcrk w.-.s coniplofcd, (!,o joiiniMls 
 and niiscclluncous collections of (iciicral Dc IVystcr n- 
 lat.nj^Mo Mount Desert, iuivc luvn piaccl l.v him at'..ur 
 disposal A uiuch better use .'ouid have been nia.h' of this 
 material d reeeived „M.ner. I will, nevertheless, extract a 
 lew tliMiiisot anti(|nai-ian interest. 
 
 ^ GLMieruM)c Peyster, who has already boon mentioned 
 in connection with - The Dutcliin Maine," visited M,„int 
 J)csert in the years I,So(J-7. ()„ reachin- Sonth-we.t Har- 
 bor he experienced the disappointment often iMt bv those 
 who bcM-m their ac(inaintanee with the island there.' Cer- 
 tain thinirs, he thoii-ht, reminded him of the Mediterri- 
 iiean, andhe admitted oven that Somes' Sound was mi.r- 
 ndicent. On the whole, he thought that he should not 
 care to stay more than a ti-w days. In cours., of time 
 however, he chan-cl his opinion, an.l whm visitiii-- Flvin-r 
 
 .Mountain applauded the opinion of his Italian lV7/,//who 
 exclaime.l, -Italy! Italv I" 
 
 (Jenoral De Teyster'.s chief objeet while on the ishi„,l 
 was to hnd some relic of the Jesuit Missirm. One day 
 when on his way to lieech Mountain, (ieneral De Pevster 
 says : V' ^ i 
 
 -We stopped at the house of old .Air. Isaac Maviiew 
 ton,k h„u .,i,o„t the site of the fn>t French setticm.-nt' 
 lie told me that when he came into this nei.rhborhoo.i 
 with his tathei; seventy-nine years a,!;,,, there was^no .lilfer- 
 ence ot opinnrn with regard to the site (.f that colonv 
 As 1 sui)posea, Flynn's Point was designated ; and hu 
 
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 278 
 
 Appendix. 
 
 licanl Ills fiithcr sny that that was tlie [)oint occujiicd. It 
 is only recently that another ;!;eneration jMjinted out other 
 loealities. * * * To my iiKjuiry, did he ever hear of 
 a settlement at Northeast Harbor, he rei)lied /<o, deei- 
 
 d 
 
 (led IV. 
 
 The General was also told " thntthe first French settlers 
 cleareil the rid'^e extendini; to the sea-wall and Flynn's 
 Point ; also that they occupied dwellin^iS over the cellars 
 and henrths still existin;^-" Mr. Nicholas Thomas, who, 
 while c()n(ined by an accident, wrote a history of his life 
 in rhyme, gave Jiim a jjjreat many stories, and, amon<!; 
 others, one about a fort that was said to have existetl on 
 Flynn's I'oint. 
 
 " The fort," he says, " was built of wood, piled endwise, 
 as if ti;.' ojien space was enclosed by a pile of cord-v/ood, 
 by which expression, I suppose, it Avas intended to convey 
 the meaning that the rampart was reveted in the same 
 way thaf; I have seen a bank kept up liy refuse wood. 
 This iiM't had embrasures, and mounted at least two guns, 
 but of what calibre tradition does not state, thou<:;h one 
 hnrM^ ibr his Uncle Mayhew told his father that he saw a 
 piece of iron cannon du^- up, jiart of the breech he thought, 
 which weighed forty-four pounds." 
 
 j\luch time was also sjuMit in (Erecting exhumations at 
 the various points suggested as sites occupied by the 
 French, vet nothinii satistactorv was tbun l : and finallv an 
 old inhabitant discourajj-ed him from lurther elforts ])V 
 assuring him that he knew the history of all the supposed 
 relics whi(di spade and i)ick brought uj). The General 
 theretbre very wisely abaii<loned the work. He has, nev- 
 ertheless, accumulated a I irge number of interesting ti'adi- 
 tions, and noted with much industry a great variety of 
 valuable facts connected with the cli'iiate, topography, and 
 the fisheries. His observations extend over the whole 
 coast ot' Maine, and were originally collected with refer- 
 cnct' to publication. 
 
 Still every one must now conceile, that the old men of 
 Blount Desert have tew ijualilications as historians. They 
 entertain the notion that the French made i)ermanent 
 settlementM in l(il3, and hence everywhere show relics of 
 their occupation. But we have alreud}' demonstrated that 
 
P H.I uufnffpvs^p 
 
 Appendix. 
 
 -79 
 
 tlio^ Frenoli di.l not n-niain ov(>r tlin^ montl.s, an.l that 
 tho.r sc.ttlonH'nt at LVrnal.rs INrint was cornpl.t.lv !lo' 
 s roycHl let the ml.ib.tants n.ioht well use tlaM,- in.a.rina- 
 t.ons at a tnne when IJa.irroffs acrount, hase.l on" e 
 pnnee of hlmidercrs, Clu.rlevoix, still <lisli<anv,l his ,.! .' 
 and taught that the colony was located up the IVrulisrof' 
 C:;i;L;^nS^ ^^^^^^^^' ^-^ ^^--^^--ttn lli.to..al society « 
 
 11. 
 
 A FIGHT AT XOKWOOD'S COVE. 
 
 To General De Teyster-s jo„rnal I am indebted f;,r the 
 tradition in regard to a stn.^^jrK. at the alw.ve ph,,.. in 
 l^omes Sound between the islanders and the JJritish 
 diirin^r the Kevolutionarv war. ' ' 
 
 it appears, from the'aeeonnt, that tlu; Captain of the 
 liritish Ln-ate lenedos undertook to cut out a enuple of 
 sehooners at .Norwood's Cove. At the time two (v,m panie^ 
 ot nnlitia were stationed there, and when (he IJHti-h n,wed 
 in with their boats they opened (iiv, eausin;,r them to ivturii 
 U) the lenedos With considerable loss. It is said that the 
 liritish buried their dead on Bear Island. 
 
 Jir. 
 
 TALLrAT.AXn AT MOUNT DESERT. 
 
 Griswold says in his li'^piihlicfm Court: 
 
 '• It has becm su-^rested that this extraordlnarv character 
 was a native ot Mo.int Dc-sert, in Maine, and soine curious 
 acts have been a.hli.ccl in support of this opinion. He 
 iKidnotlon- been in the country, before Mr. Kdwaid II 
 lu.bbins, alterward Lieutenant (iovernor of Mas.siclmM.tts' 
 discovere<llum in.-.,-., at Mount Des.Mt, wamh-riicr ab.,ut 
 with.Mit any apparent ni.,tive. 'J'he ohh-r inhahirants of 
 t hat s.'clu.h'd place thought ihcv re.-o-ni/,.,! in him an 
 dicouimate ,.mo( the p.v.ty .lauoh(,.r c,f a fisherman and 
 the .•aptain .»t a Iivn.-h national ship which had b,.,.n 
 there ,n 1 r.O.'J. The boy, they sai.l, wlum tw.-lv.- or 
 thirt.-en years of a-e. his inoth.-r b.'injr dead, had invu 
 taken away by a French gentleman, who .l.-.hire.l tlu't 
 
•6o 
 
 ApJ^cudix. 
 
 ' 
 
 l)n!.lisluMl/'J(p. oZ-'j'^ ^'" ^''""^ ^'-IM'netions, will' be 
 
 states ilK.t Ih. washnnTi p I '^^'•^^•^''n'^ bioorapl.v 
 
 I"'^ i:'tlHT's roof nn VhV V V ^'^ ""'"' '^''P^ "'"1^'^' 
 
 -0 siKd^;: oi- r;;:.''=^^-^ ^'^-y •-'" 'i<-^o-L - tha 
 
 ^^^.^^^^ i^litiinan, c/c«r/^ had the .Mount IJe.ert variety in 
 
 IV. 
 
 j;stj:vax gomkz. 
 
 Tlie earliest map slion-in.n anv novfinn r>f ii „ » 
 ooMstiv-asIn- Jinn I),. I ., r ■ !. , 7 "' '"<= Amoncan 
 
 tik. first nri, ■",, ' i;'^"r''r" ";;■ ''^'"^ "'' -^^ i>- ^-m. 
 
 Kil'fro, of I5V;;\, ,.•,,. ^,''' "I'f ^«l"al'l" Is that of 
 
 ti.,t (..,,, . , ,,,,,,^,,,^ f ,:,;;^.:;;:[,, - tn ■:;:"(^ ;::» 
 
 Oo.„ri 'it P;,l,to ';.'?■•'''•'' 'I'" ^'""'' ';/'/^'"'<"«