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Dietetics of the Olden 
 Time 
 
 BY 
 
 WILLIAM RENWICK RIDDELL. LL.D.. 
 
 F. R. Hilt. S.. Eic. 
 
 TORONTO, ONTARIO 
 
 Reprinted (rom The Dietetic end Hygienic Cezelte 
 (New York) for Auguat, 1913. 
 
HAMilTON PLJ8UG LIBRARY 
 
DIETETICS OF THE OLDEN TIME 
 
 B, WILLIAM RENWICK RIDDELL 
 
 The Science uf Dietetics is nut :i thing of ycster- 
 ilay even .imntit; ''"e Kn(;lish-s|>e;ikin(;. 
 
 In 1671, Ji)hn Archer, Chvmical Phvsician-in- 
 Onh'nary to the Kinj;. Charles II. published at 
 I.<inil<in a little viihinie entitled " Every Man his 
 own Doctor"; while the second part "shews the 
 fnll knowledge and cure " of many iliseases inclnd- 
 iTiK '■ Dropsie (.'onsiitnptions Scurvy Obstrnctions 
 and Agnes." the lirst sets forth " the Naltlre and 
 Kacnitics of all Food as well Meats as drinks, 
 Whereby every .Man aid Woman inay nnilerstand 
 what is good and hnrtfnl to ihcm." 
 
 The llecond part may be dismisse<l with a few 
 words. Kvery disease is to be cured bv the use 
 of "onr conlial dyet drink, js 0.1 the (|uart. .Morbus 
 I'ill the Mox containing 30 at 5s. the Corroborating 
 Pill the box containing 40 at 5s, the Vomiting Pill 
 the 1k« containing 20 at ,is" ; all these were to be 
 had "only from my house in Winchester Street 
 near fireshani Colledgc next door to the Fleece 
 Tavern." 
 
 It will be seen that Archer's simple phaniia- 
 ™|»eia was more scant than e.'en that of Samuel 
 Thomson the liotanical physician a centiirv and a 
 half later: the Chvmical Physician of the 17th 
 ccnturv had only four remedies while the liotanical 
 Empiric of the l.ilh ha<l at least six. 
 
 The more interesting part of the Ijook, however 
 IS the first. The Author, thinking of those who 
 
IHeli-lics of Ihi- I >:il,-ii liiii,- 
 
 "iu'kIii'I iIk |irt'tii>iis k'wcl 111 liiNillli . . . 
 livf tit't,'iiKC'HtIy and Eat ami Drink the\ i-ari- not 
 wliat si( it bf K<«><1 in it self . . . sn it please 
 the Paliat lint tliereliy many <lif,' tlu-ir (Iraves with 
 Iheir teeth . . liesiiles their nni-iimfiirtahle 
 
 livinij ill sickness and disease id* IhhIv," writes his 
 " shiirl iimipeniiinni . . . wheriliy every man 
 may he his nwn Ductnr in a Dietct' al wav." 
 "These Reasons." he sa.. s, "made me publish this 
 short tract for 'ly Kood thai art willint; and hast 
 need fif Advice least too late ihon considerest." 
 
 lie first speaks of the four Temperaments. " San- 
 RHine. Cholerick. PleK'niatick and Melancholia," 
 and how one may determine his tempct„nient. This 
 is of very great im|)ortance to all that desire health 
 or Wisdom. " for Mores scqiintur hiininrcs." and 
 all should correct the excess or defect of heat, cold, 
 nioistnre or dryness hy pro[)er food, etc., " for it 
 is tnily said Coni/ariae Cnntrariis Curanliir. all 
 Reinedic^ are perloniied hy the contraries." 
 
 We may pass over the chapter on Air and come 
 at once to that "Of Meat or Food." 
 
 " Every man may e: sily see and know by com- 
 paring it with his Constitution what is Friendly 
 and health fnl to him and wherein it is inimical 
 and therefore know that ,ill .Minient as Meat, and 
 T>Tm\i ... is of vertne to encrease the snh- 
 stance of onr bodies for it is a tnie saying in a 
 sense t'al \vc our selves have had our selves upon 
 our trenchers." 
 
 Dr. Archer hcRins with Beef which he thinks a 
 "hard of concoction, thick, flesh which doth not 
 easily pass through the veins . . . the frequent 
 
IlieU-lHx of the Olilcii Tim,: 
 
 use tlicri'of cai'sclli ilr> ami mclaiu-lmny hitmoiirs, 
 vvtlhn.il i-MTi-isi- and ialwdir uf ImhIv. cspci-iaily if 
 il he 1)1.1 Ciiw lioef iir ' )x litTl thai willi lalxmr 
 anil imich wurkhiK lialli c ■nIracU'c! ilr.vni's> ami 
 liarilni-ss iil I'U-li iir is tiaiik-ni-il with Salt ami 
 Snioak," lit tliirifi)R' iMnihidts llial il is " most 
 |>ri)litalile for laliorions pciiplf," \'t*al is " teltl- 
 pcrali- ami n-n.lcr lliimuli siinii-lliins; Wati-rish " 
 ami " yic'lils a lliiclcer hiyic ihan l.anili or Mnlliin." 
 
 Of MnllDn tlif lifst is " Wi-atlicr, the yunnj^cr is 
 the hfst meat . . . ami a^jrccs huth wirh (hnsc that 
 arc well ami tlmsf that arc sick, llnl Kwf Mmtun 
 is evil . . . the Flesh of Rwes is evil and dull 
 and viscid juice is hred ihemif." l.aiuh " when it 
 is a year 'yid. it is a very jjiKid nourishnient . . . 
 liefore it he n yeer old hath moist Hesh. slimy an<l 
 viscid." 
 
 " Swines flesh nnnrisheth very plentifidly and 
 yields firm nutrimcin and therefore is most profit- 
 ahlc for tho?-^ that are in their tlonrishing age." 
 Snckinj; I'ijjs are " very nourishini( hiit they agree 
 not with all constitutions, because too much 
 humidity ahoiuids in it. the fnmuus va|iors asccTids 
 up to the head, in many causing pain atid swim- 
 ings." Brawti is " dil'licultly concocted." 
 
 The feet of \ninials are cold ami dry ; " All 
 hearts are of a ha--, and dry nature Init if well 
 concocted " (i.e.. digested) they are useful "chiefly 
 corroborating the heart by syinpathy." The I.iver 
 is h; -1 to be concocted : " the Spleen ... is 
 the receptacle of gross Mclancholly blood: , . 
 therefore not fit I'or food." the I.ungs "nourish 
 but little yet easie of conciKtion and aflFord gmjil 
 
Oirtclkx nf the Ohlrn Titnr. 
 
 tiiiiirishnicnt." tin- Iiitvstim'-* " iiiit mtv i;<ki'1 l)iit 
 thick .\litnc?it." " (hi- 'ruiimti' i'\tcl^ Ilie iptluT 
 pans." the Itrniil " yiclil-. I'l'ttiitoiis ati<l thirk jnii-c 
 . fanseth loathiti^ t xi-t-pt it Ir* well shari)- 
 netl with \itieKar.'* 
 
 N'eliisoii allh(iii|;h "in hij;h esteem with (icillry 
 ami IVasaiit generates Metaiirhnl'v jtiiee." " Marcs 
 flesh is aceminted I>y I'hysieians for Melaiu-lmlly 
 meal . . . yet they are liimiKhl tn generate a 
 ({(hmI cnlniir ill the fai-e, they are ln'st iKiyleil." 
 
 Tioates flesh is imieh a|i|>ri<veil. so iiki with 
 " Conies if ih y he nrit too old." 
 
 ()f"Fnwlcs . . the Tnrkie is of the iipjicr 
 raiiek . . . havinR ({ooil juice and landahlc 
 iiolirishnient. it is most tit for those that are in 
 heahh." Hens and Capons arc " easic of concoc- 
 tion of good juice . . . the hest is the flesh 
 of cram'd Capons, the next is that of fat Cliickens. 
 the next are Pullets: as for okl Cocks ami Hens 
 their flesh is harder ami dryer and not to he eaten 
 hut hy lahorious iieople." 
 
 Cieese. — .\ well coiicoctcfl goose " afTords plenty 
 of nourishment but the delacacy of a Ooosc is the 
 I.iver which if it he well fatteil especially with 
 sweet food, as lioiled Carrots, etc." 
 
 Tame Ducks, except the young ones, are not 
 aiiprovcd of hut Wild Duck and Mallanl " yeilds 
 good nourishment and ilo not easily pulrilie in the 
 Stoiiiack." Pheasants arc rccommendcil to all in 
 health as are Partriilges and Quail, but the sick 
 must not eat of Quails. " hecause they are apt to 
 generate Feavers." Pigeons are " most dangerous 
 in a Putrid Feaver." Plovers. Cocks (i.e.. Wood 
 
l>ii'tetii\f of the OMrn Time. 
 
 I'm'ks I. Suites (old fiirin of " Sni[K's '). Thninhc!*. 
 (tlack tjjrds atul l^^irk*- re all ailinirahlc. cHpnially 
 the l.ark which "hath a |H:cultar i|tialil> rml unly 
 to prt'scrvc nnc from the L'hultick but also t^i cure 
 it." 
 
 " Fishc scarce atfunl so k*^m1 jiiycf as Corn 
 and Km; and other \ ejiitables. they are cold, 
 easily puiririe and if they arc cornipted they 
 acijuire a quality nv>st dat]|ferously atlverse to our 
 natures." 
 
 Salmon is " the Iwst of I'ish hut uhen they are 
 )iickle<l with salt and han ed with siuuak they are 
 much worse and ditVu y concocted." Trouts 
 come next to Salmon. .-voles plaice and Tnrlwt " 
 are highly comi-iendetl except when they are 
 "(Iryed in the Snioak." Gudgeons and Smelts 
 may safely Iw given to those that an 'ck: to 
 these, other little fishes are alike as e and 
 
 Minners. etc." 
 
 A Carj). especially " if it I>e fat . . . stewed 
 in Wine as the manner is, makes a Princely dish 
 . . . hut (alas) is not tit for sick people." Pike 
 on the contrary "may also be given to those that 
 are sick. Perch " halh tender flesh ... the 
 Juyce is not evil yet it affords weaker Aliment." 
 Bream is to be eaten but " not to he mixed with 
 divers kinds of meats"; Tench is approveil while 
 " a liarbel whose Eggs perchance gave an occasion 
 for some to supintse he hears very bad, causes not 
 only pain hut also vomiting . . . and stirs up 
 Choller." Naturally " from the use thereof we 
 ought to abstain." The use of Eells is not safe 
 for sick people: Lampreys are not numbered by 
 
 7 
 
Dietetics of the Olden Tin 
 
 Physitians anioii^' Fishes of the best sort but Her- 
 rings are. except wiien "pickled with sah or hanl- 
 ne(i with Snioak." Oxilisb and SttK-ktish are not 
 to be eaten " wilbout danger to any save those that 
 have healthy strong stoniacks and lalior nnich." 
 Sturgeon give tinn nutriment and are " ver\' last- 
 ing to work upon.'* Lobsters and Crabs '* will not 
 well <ligest hut in a strong stoniack," while Oysters 
 and Scollops "have a soft juice . . . ind l)eing 
 hard of concoction nourish but little."' 
 
 Passing now to Meats from living creatures. 
 Milk comes in for a good word. Sound " Anitnals 
 only generate good milk but such diseased animal.s 
 generate vitious an<l corrupt. The best milk . . . 
 is of a gtMKl smel and sweet to the taste . . . 
 neither too thick nor too t! ;i. neither Serous nor 
 Caseous." "Although in Consuni])tions sometimes 
 is ];rescribed Woman's ^fi'ik. Asses Milk or (loats 
 Milk, yet for Food, none is so good as Cows milk, 
 and of that sort the Red Cow is best and in a 
 Consumption I should prefer it before the termer 
 being taken warm while the spirit of the animal is 
 in it." Cheese does not receive nnich commenda- 
 tion; still "it is very useful to close the month of 
 the stomack after a full meal, being eaten to the 
 (|uanttty of a dram or two " but " it is always to 
 be eaten sparingly and after other meats." Whey 
 " is more fit for Medicine than Food." 
 
 Egg' afforil much nourishment. " The newest 
 eggs are the best and nourish most and soonest 
 . . . but the stalest are the worst." " As for 
 the cooking of them they are best when the yolk 
 is soft and the Rear hardned to a white colour and 
 
 8 
 
Dietetics of the Olilcn Time. 
 
 so supt up, being Ijoyled in water, they may easily 
 be given to a weak Stomacls : they arc stronger in 
 last, lx)yleil in the shell than potched, es|)ecially if 
 Roasted but the worst way of ilressing them is to 
 fry them in a |)an." Honey "is not good for the 
 Liver but very good for the Lungs " ; and Sugar is 
 valuable for its " cleansing i|uality in the body of 
 man." 
 
 Passing into the X'egetable Kingdom, the Doctor 
 discusses Wheat approved for all. Barley especially 
 for the sick. Rye not so good as Wheai. " causing 
 in some, griping pains," Rice "especially boyleil 
 with Milk," Oats " very useful in pottages and 
 broaths which may be given to sick or well ", 
 Beans which "make the senses dull,' I'ease which 
 " yield better nourishment than beans . , . and 
 are very pleasing to Stomachs surfeited with over- 
 fulness of stronger Food." Parsnips " are hot and 
 dry . . . they are more useful in Physick then 
 Food." Turnips " are safely eaten with meat or 
 alone buttered, being baked their Juyce makes a 
 good Surnip for a Consumption." Carrots are 
 very wholesome. Radish commonly used for 
 " Sawce " while Mustard " is Uiuch for heat, last 
 and efficacy like the Root of Wild Horse railish. 
 Leeks and C.arlick " have a |X)wer of attenuating 
 thick Phlegm and viscid humours, taking away cold 
 and this is a good Remedy . . . against the 
 Plague and venemous Air," while Onions ' are all 
 hurtful to the Head, Eyes, Teeth and Gums and 
 cause disturbive sleep and turbulent dreams." Cab- 
 bage does not recommend itself to the author, it 
 "affords little nourishment . . . fulliginous 
 
Dietetics of the Olden Time. 
 
 vapours fly into the head and produce turbalent 
 sleep and weakens the sight, and are very danger- 
 ous for those that are incident to a Vertigo or 
 swimming in the head." Still '* being boyled in 
 the breath with Fat Meat, it is somewhat corrected, 
 yet the stinking coction or broath shews its danger 
 and that its only fitting for laborious people." 
 Artechoaks are not much better. Lattice is " the 
 best of Sallads . . . corrects Choller and good 
 for hot Stomachs, it provokes sleep." Spinage is 
 " not profitable." Beets, Orach and Mallows 
 " nourish little and yields a watry Juyce and 
 unpleasing of tast. except the sawce mends them." 
 Asparagus and young branches of Hops " are 
 grateful to the tast and cause Appetite . , . " ; 
 Parsley aflfords but little nourishment while Purs- 
 lain is an " excellent sallad with Oyl." Mints are 
 pleasing in smell and " very strengthning to the 
 Stomach, they stay Vomiting and are a most excel- 
 lent Sallad minced in Vinegar and Sugar for any 
 fresh meat." " Melones are pleasant in tast and 
 send forth an Aromatick Smell but are of a cold 
 watry moist substance. . . but are easily cor- 
 rupted and being cornipted become as it were of 
 a poysonous nature and stir up Choller or generate 
 Feavers whereby many great men are killed," 
 therefore " after the eating of them some good 
 Food ought to be eaten and good Wine to be drank 
 that their corrupting may be hindred." Cucumbers 
 are much the same but not so dangerous. Straw- 
 berries "are profitable to those that troubled 
 with Choller in the Stomach, they cool the Liver 
 . . . but are easie cornipted in the Stomach, 
 
Dietetics of Ihr Olden Time. 
 
 therefore on^ht to he eaten hefore meat." A])ples 
 " are henetk-ial to those which are troiihled with 
 Melaticholly." Pears and (Jiiinces have no good 
 (Itiahties. nor Peaches unless these he " hoyled in 
 Wine ": htit Apricocks are pleasing to the Stomach 
 and not easily corrupted. Medlers shuuld not he 
 eaten till they are rotten. Cherries f|uench thirst 
 and raise an Appelite and black cherries are "most 
 wholesome and indeed Medicinal ajjainst t'onvnl- 
 sions." Plumbs are "chiefly profitable to Cholorick 
 Stomachs"; "the white or yellowish are 'he worst, 
 but the best are of a black or blew cohmr like 
 Damsons or Damask Prunes." " Mulbiirics are 
 to be eaten when the stomach is empty onlv." Figs 
 have " a penetrating and cleansing faculty." Orapes 
 arc apt to "stir up Chollick I'its :uid cause the 
 spleen to swell and fill the Stomach and IJver with 
 crude humours." Of \uts. Almonds arc the best 
 but they arc "not good to be given in Feavers"; 
 Filberds and Ilasle-Xuts come next in " vertue " ; 
 Walnuts when old are apt to cause a cough and 
 cause a pain in the head but "the use of them is 
 commended after eating of Fish because their heat- 
 ing and dryness prevent t!ie corruption of Fish." 
 Chestnuts are believed by " Gallen that learned 
 Physitian," to " have no ill juyce." but they should 
 not be "eaten in too great plenty." Olives are 
 temperate while " the oyle drawn from them that 
 are rii)C . . . ctjrrect the gravity of other .\Ii- 
 tnents, amen<ls the Cnulity of Herbs, nav resists 
 Poyson . . . and mitigates pain internally and 
 externally." 
 
 Of Mushrooms or Toad Stools, the author wisely 
 II 
 
Diclelks of Ihc Olden Time. 
 
 says " oftentimes they are poysonous therefore 
 better let alone than eaten." 
 
 Then comes a chapter on Drink. I tf Water, that 
 is preferred which spreads towards the East and 
 mns Eastward, of Rain Water that which falls 
 in Summer time with Thunder; Well Water, Lake 
 anil Marrish Waters are all condemned, as is the 
 water from Snow or Ice. Of Wines, sweet wines 
 of fragrant smell, pale or white rather than reil 
 or deep colored, old rather than new, should be 
 drunk. Of Beer and Ale " all new drink is more 
 unwholesome." Honey Drinks are 'good for the 
 Phlegmatick and bad for the Chollerick," while 
 Coffee " will make him that drinks it vigilant for 
 it doth much hinder sleep ... is bad to be 
 drank near bed time . . . 1 icing in itself poten- 
 tially cold it is innocent, working no wonders but 
 one, viz.. It hath mn!., many poor people by selling 
 it. become very rich." Tobacco is good for a 
 vulnerary. " Smoaked " it is good for Phleg- 
 maticks. for Rhumes, Catarrhs, Distillations and 
 Hydropick persons, bad for the Chollerick consti- 
 tutioned. If those chollerick constitutioned do 
 " smoak " it is best for them to drink before and 
 after " least their natural heat with the heat of the 
 Tobacco may be inflamed and cau.se a burning at 
 the Heart and in the Stomach." 
 
 This part of the book terminates with a chapter 
 of most excellent advice on exercise of body and 
 mind, rest and " sleep and watching." 
 
 Until Alexis St. Martin shot a hole in his 
 stomach, most of the so-called knowledge of diges- 
 tion was pure guess-work, and Dr. Archer per- 
 
 12 
 
Dietetics of the Olden Time. 
 
 haps makes as good a guess as any other. With 
 many of his conchisions, gourmets ant! physicians 
 will agree, with some, one class and not the other 
 while occasionally he makes an assertion altogether 
 fantastic and discredited. 
 
 Taken as a whole, his dietetics cannot bo said to 
 have been behind his age or a discredit even to a 
 Kmgs "Chymical Physitian."