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 .CAPT. M'CLURE'S DESPATCHES 
 
 '^ t 
 
 
 6C 
 
 INVESTIGATOR'^ 
 
 fc:^flS. 
 
 OFF POINT WAURI5N AND CAPE BATHUKST. 
 
 • *' '' 
 
 
 
 * 
 
 FOURTH EDITION. 
 
 "^ 
 
 1' 
 
 WITH CONSIDERABLE ADDITIONS. 
 
 
 fc.'' 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 -'• 
 
 LONDON: 
 
 
 JOHN BETTS, 115, STRAND, 
 
 [nearly opposite exbter hall. J s " 
 ; 1853. 
 
 [Price^ with Map, Ninepence.] 
 
 ^' .' 
 
_ - • • • ■ 
 
 •;/ 
 
 « • •• 
 
 ^C^ c, L/\ 
 
 ^ 
 
 ^ 
 
 LONDON : 
 
 PRINTED IIY WILLIAM TYLEK, 
 
 BOLT-tOliKT, ILKET-STUKEV. 
 
 JUL - 7 192* 
 
V^Miiiili'iil-iiil- 
 
 
iMMaMMpaMM 
 
 u 
 
 
 m 
 
 
.,^ 
 
 i^'^K'^ 
 
 
 TIIK N()KTiJ-\VE8T I'ASSAdE. 
 
 I'Uii'Aiv vi'ci iii.'i,'>; ni.'iii'A rniiix 
 
 KISSIA, TURKEY, AND PERSIA. 
 
 Ju^t published, price, coloured, Ninepence ; or, folded 
 in cover. One Shilling. 
 
 A MAP, eiiibnclng the greater part of Turkey in 
 Europe and Asia, the Black Sea, with the South of 
 Hussia, Circassia, and part of Persia. 
 
 Price Ninepence, coloured, 
 A beautiful MAP of TURKEY in EUROPE, 
 divided into its various provinces, and well adapted 
 for reference with respect to the present hostilities. 
 
 n low IJL'ilt'II, «J)JlilICiiti_y oiitii^tv., i.<iui..>i>^ «.^.,^ - . 
 
 thcr again liaving becoint- thick, \vc went entirely by our soin.ulinga, 
 which varied from 1 \ to 7;^ fathoms ; in wliicb lattoi' wo rounded I'oint 
 Barrow at 1 1.30 p.m., without, however, ohserving the land, and 
 steered to the eastward, direct for IJanks's Land, tindinj!; that the ice 
 was suificiently loose and practicable for sailing through. These hoj)cs 
 were soon, however, dissi[)aled ; foi" on llie hirenoon of the (>th it 
 suddenly cleared, when I found that we bad \k)\\ runuinu; directly into 
 tiu^ pack, wbifh wa;i very luavy and iui)icii< trublo, rxteudinti; from 
 S.E. to S.W. (bv the north), m lat. 71" ;i;V ;n^ and long. i;.;V'l2' W. 
 
 jv 2 
 
m 
 
 «»»t!'"«!'MPV.*>VK>-l«ii; 
 
~1II 
 
 TiiK Noirni-WKST rAssAci:. 
 
 CAriAlN M'CUIKKS DIWrAK'IIKS. 
 
 
 till i]/(i/i\h/.> />/,siiiiriif S/iip, /iHi'Khi/dhii , iijl I'miH Willi' I,, I'l'lit 
 
 Sill, /iiiiiii'ii 'iMh, is.'io, III III/. r,<i' I;;' ,V . 'onii i;ii .vr '/. 
 
 Sii{, I liiivc llic liiiiioin (o I'l'iiort to ynii, (m tin* iiiluniiiitioii nl' 
 <lic l.unls ('oiiiiiiissioiRMs (if (lie Ailiiiiriilly, that wv iiirivtd .til' the 
 .M;i('U('H/ic oil till- 'Jlst iiisliiiit, 'I'lic li'ltcrs (lull I rorwiii'i'til by IKt 
 Miijcsty's ship, llirnhf, IVoiii whom 1 parted nini]miiy on iIk; ;!()tli 
 ultimo, oil' ('ii|i(' l-ishiinic, will liiivi- put you in |ios.s('ssioii of my 
 procfcdiiins lip to thill (lute. 
 
 Alter parliiij; willi the Ucviihl \ stood to lln X.X.W. with .i i'rosli 
 liree/e iVom the N'.l),, witli the intention ot making' the ire, uhicli 
 was aeeomplisheil on the nioininjiot' the 'Jntl ot' Anj^iist, in lat. 7^' '21' N., 
 loiitr. Hid'- I J' W., and at II a.m. stood iitto the loose ice fur the 
 purpose oi' exaininin!;' the pack ; the wind, however, i'alliiij^ iK'iore we 
 i;o| far in, I was imlnced to rnn ont to avoid heinj; lieset, havini; ascer- 
 tained th.'it the i)ack was very close and lieavy, extending!; I'roin I'l.N.K. 
 to W.X.W., arid, seein;j, no hope of i!;ettin;i; throii<j;h, worked aloiijj; 
 its edge in sonndiiif^s froui 'J I to 2(i tathoms (mud) ; t lie hundreds of 
 walriisscs that were lyiiifi,' upon the ice, thickly huddled toj^ether like 
 sheep in a I'old, were most .nslonishinj:'. We continued working alon;^ 
 the ice, ttccasioually getting drilled in, until tlie .")th, when the weather, 
 which liad been previously thick and misty, cleared a little, and no 
 ice being in sight, 1 shaped a course for Wainwright's Inlet, with the 
 intention of getting hetweeu the pack and shore , in running exchanged 
 numbers with llcr Majesty's shij) J'/oi'cr, and at 1 I. .'it) a.m. observed 
 a low beach, apparently shingle, distant ai)oiit two miles. The wea- 
 ther again having become thick, we went entirely by our soundings, 
 which varied from I 1 to 7'>i fathoms ; in which latter we rounded I'oint 
 Barrow at W.'M) p.m., without, however, observing the land, and 
 steered to the eastward, direct for IJanks's Land, tinding that the ice 
 was snthcicntly loose .and practicable for sailing through. These hojics 
 were soon, however, dissipated ; for on tlie lorenoon of the (ith it 
 stiddenly cleared, when 1 found that we had bo -n runniitg directly into 
 the pack, which wa^ very heavy and inipein trublo, extending from 
 S.E, to IS.W. (by the north), m hit. 71 .'>5' N and louij-. lx> \2' W. 
 
 A 2 
 

 4 (AriAiN MH'i,n;i;"L-i iii':U'AH-'iii;y. 
 
 i\\u\ (111' Hfu lliicnyli wliifli \\i' li;ul conic lonkiiii;' marly ii-. v.iiiti' -.v, 
 tliu ioi' iiluMil, iMijil lliiU liuii'.s nf uatiT ucri' obscrvaMc. Wc 
 iii.'tiuiilv liaiilril !<•• till' wind, and (•iMiniiciiic.l wnrKiiiL' oul. Dmiii;'; 
 till- niul'il tlir lirn/'.' lVi:-lu'iH'il roiisiiii ralily, In iiiuiii.^ sluiwi'i.'s of rain 
 \\\\\i tiiiik v.iaMiii', wluii' 1 liiiu; >(".iijuHtil i> it.M'v a yw^n of i.iiivass 
 tliroiidi viTV lii'avy aiu! clor^i' sai'.ii;.;- ii'i' ri'iiikriil tlii' iia\ ii;a(i<ai 
 I Atiiiiiclv i-ritical. 'Ilu' vi'Siirl oi'fasioiially slriirk nidi sonii' viokiicr. 
 'i'iiis ((Mitiiiiii'd lill llii' al'liTiioou of llir 7lli, wliiii cli'ar wafiT was 
 ii'porli'd iVoiii till' ('iow's-iii'>(. Till' wind aiinosl iMrincdiali'ly I'ailini', 
 till' l)oa(s Will' all uiaiintd. and (owiu:; rtniiuu'iiv'rd amid ^011:4-5 and 
 rliriTs, wliirli ronliimi'd wilii iii'.a.kalid ;ri>i)d liiiinMiir ior si\ lionr.-, 
 will n (lu'ir lai)oiii>iis woik was liion_i;lil tu a surcissl'ttl ifniiiiwition ; 
 being in |»i'rt'< illy rloar water in .Sniitli'ii iJay, a li;.i,li( air sjirin^in;;' n|i, 
 wi' wurkrd to tlio raslward. 
 
 At 2 a.m. of tlif Sl.li, brinii; olf Point Dii'W, .■^iiit ^Ii'. Cinut (sicond 
 inaistcr), oil nIioit to vwi'\ a rairii, and luiiy a i:;itiii' of onr liaxiii!:; 
 nasjM'd. Upon k'nidiii;: they wrir rni'l liv tlircc nativis, wko at iirsi 
 ucrc vrrv tiniiik Iml, in on (■xrliaiiLviiiL:,' simi-i of friend diip, wliiih eiMi- 
 >>isited of raiNiiej,- tin- .'iiiii- three ti'.ius over the head, they a)i}Ud,ielied 
 the boat, !-.:uk nfl.'r the jdea-anl >alntalion ol' rnhhini;- no'e.-, became 
 very eoininniiiealive ; when, liy the as.-ist;ir.ee of oiir invahud'le inter- 
 jircler, ^Ir. .Mii-r!-; bin:; ihc 'rleelion of this !;enllein;ni lor tlii:, 
 imjiortant oliiee (k)e:s inlinite credit to the di.-cernniciil of tliuse who 
 sent him - we t'onnd lie' trilie eoie'i>'led oi ten teiils (ibis luin;;' the 
 only apjiroaeh to lluir nundiers he e.iiiM olila.in), that tiiey had 
 .■irrived onlv ihrei' da_\s |ire\ ii.n-ly. iind ;hat ihey liohl coininunieation 
 with a parte iiilaia!, >viio (lade v.iib \\\y Husaan l''nr ('onipany. 'I'he 
 eNcniin.!; bet'ore, thev had ol>:.iivtd os, hiit. eoiild not. iniau:iiie whtil 
 lar!.!;e Irees thev were nioviti,<j^ aboni (oiii inasis), ami .all I he tril)e had 
 assendiled on lln' beach to look at them, uhen they ai;reed thai il wa-. 
 soinetbinu; veiy extraordinary, and let'l the three men who im I the i-.oat lo 
 >\alch. Thev alsd L^axe tiie pleasin;j; intelli;;eiiee thai we shonM fnid open 
 water aluiii:; the cast, t'roni aliout tliree to ilve miles' ili.-t;mee dnriiii;' 
 the ^1nlluner ; ihat the liea\y ice \eiy seldom eaiiie in, or never left the 
 land I'urlher ih;;;; at proeii! ; thai liiey did not know il' there were 
 any islands t'nrilie',' noi'lli, a,.-> they fome.l i! imjio::.-ii)le lo ^;.i) in their 
 kyaeks, when in piirsin! of seals, liiriher than one <lay"s j^mrney to 
 the main iee ; an.i then the laiuo ol' water allowed of their proceediiiL;- 
 threc-ip.tarti'rs of a day fnrther, which brom;ht them lo v^'ry largo and 
 high ice, with n't space laumgh in any part of it to idlow thiir kya.eks 
 to enter ; the prohe.ble distance, Mr. .Mierlsching I hercfore estimates, 
 iVom his knowU'diM' of the llMjuimaux habits, lo be about U> miles 
 oil" shore, and fioiu whal 1 have seen o|' the pack, I am inclined to 
 think this is jierfeetly correct, for a more mibrokeu mass 1 never 
 witnessed. Thev al^o meiitioned M'cinu; the Itoats with while men iroiiiir 
 eastward la.-t yi ;ir (winch I suppose was l,K'ii(enaiil i'nllcii), hut had 
 not .'^ecn any other while persons or anything like this vessel before ; 
 they had, therefore, no name of snt^icient grandeur to give the great 
 "omiac," so I'.ey called her the "last-moving' island." ISevcral of 
 them cr.me oil' to the vessel, but had little lo barter, as all their 
 luiii'errf were away, but immediately we had been observed they were 
 sent for, anil would soon arrive. Then, said (hey, '"You will be gone, 
 and how disappuinteil (hey will be." Tliey apjiear a snn[»]e, kind 
 
 ])ros 
 
TAPTAFN M*(!r,l ni'.'s IM'-SrATCIirs. 
 
 5 
 
 y ji-i v.liiic ii ) 
 
 ■v;il»lc. \\\' 
 
 Hti. Dlllill!',' 
 
 iwi'is of I'll in 
 
 S3 of liUIVilSS 
 
 (' ii!ivii;;ili(iii 
 •nil' viiiliiicc. 
 ir Wiitcj- \v;is 
 i;it('ly liiiliiii', 
 il .^(iii:;s .'111(1 
 !|' six liiiiii.., 
 Irl'iiiinalitMi ; 
 ^il^ill^ill^• ii|), 
 
 AllU'l (.Sl't'Ulll! 
 
 our lia\in!.'; 
 v.!.<i i-.t III- -it 
 , \vlii( Il ciiii- 
 
 V ilJIjlKi.uiu'll 
 
 ((SI'S, ln'caino 
 iIiii'.Mc iiilcr- 
 i;iu lor tlii:; 
 )i' those ulio 
 is Iniiij;' tlic 
 
 U( (ili'V ll.'ul 
 
 iiiniiuiic'ilioii 
 np;niy. Tlic 
 niiiiiiin' \\h:\\ 
 
 I lie II ilit' hail 
 
 I I ilia! il \vii> 
 Hi IJK' hoat lo 
 liiil liml (ipcii 
 -laii.'L' dlllill:;' 
 iicwr h'I't the 
 f' there \si'n' 
 t ;ri) in llii'ir 
 
 S jvlllllU'V to 
 
 ir procei'diiii;' 
 ■ry lar^'o aiul 
 llu'ir Ivyjulvs 
 nv esliiiialt's, 
 )iit 10 miles 
 I iiu'liiied to 
 lass I iievei' 
 v men iioiii"' 
 en), hilt had 
 esse! heliU'e ; 
 ve the i^real 
 [Several of 
 iis iill their 
 ed they were 
 will he pint', 
 iiiiple, kind 
 
 pcoplp, very poor, very filthy, nud, to us, hiokod oxcoodinp;ly urctehoil, 
 'V\w time of our return was repeatodlv inrpured for liy them. Thoy 
 woidd have a (piantity of skuis ; they were anxious for us to wait "a 
 little, that they niiglit send oiF a puj(j)ly of reindeer ; hut, the hoat 
 vetiirninj:;, and the wind fair, I made theui a few presents, and ^ave 
 llieiu a letter to he forwarded to the Uussiau Fur ('oinpauy, and nia<le 
 sail to the eastward. The wind heing light as we ran close "along shore, 
 in from four to six fathoms, we had a great mauy visitors ; manv of 
 them had heen their whole lives hetweeu the Coppermine and Point 
 I'arrow. These could give no information of the missing exjiedition. 
 1 am eerfain that had any of thein reached these shores we uinst have 
 heanl of it. The coast is inhahited throughoiif, and the natives are, 
 to all appearance, a kind and merry race, and when we gave them 
 ])reseuts, through the medium of the interpreter, we told them that 
 we were looking for our lost hrothers, and if they saw any white men 
 in distress they were to he very kind; to which they assented, hy 
 saying they would, and give them plenty of "deer's Hesh." AVhife 
 running along the land, which is exceedingly low, ohserved upon Toint 
 Pitt two conical mounds ; thinking they might have some communica- 
 tion huried heneath, ran in to exainine them. ^Vhilc in stavs the 
 vessel took the ground, but was hove off almost immediately without 
 any damage, (he bottom being soft clay. The hoat sent to examine 
 the nu)nnd.s reported thon old Esquimaux caches, where they deposit 
 their venison. They left a bottle, containing a notice of our passing. 
 
 Ifpon rounding Cape llalkett on the morning of the !)t,h, found the 
 ice was set close to the shore, which rendered it a jiassage of much 
 anxiety, great labour, and imminent risk, as the wind was strong from 
 M.S.H., with thick fog, and the ice closing around us fast, so that vvc 
 had barely space t(* work in, tacking freipuntly in Hve, and never 
 beyimd ten minutes, standing upon one tack, into three-auda-half 
 I'athoms, and Jipoti the other to four-and-a-half and six fathoms ; this 
 operation was continued the greater part of the middle and all the 
 morning watch. At !) a.m. the weather cleared a little, and open 
 water was ohserved in Smith's Ihiy ; our simiiding.-i gradually in- 
 creased ; the reaches became longer as we rounded the cape, and all 
 apprehension of being forced on shore was over. 
 
 August HI. — In crossing Harrison's J'ay found the influence of the 
 ColvilK- to extend \- or 11 miles, the surface of the water beiii!;' 
 of a dirty mud colour, and scarcely salt. The weather, thick and 
 toggy, ))revented any land being seen. The soundings were very ri'gular 
 on <me tack; the ice allowed of onr standing off to eight fathoms; 
 anil on the other, the land to thrt'c-aiid-a-half fathoms, black mud. 
 
 Aiiiriist 11. — In the mornint; the weather cleared a little, and dis- 
 covered to us .Jones's Island. An erect jiiece of wood on the shore 
 attracted the attention of the olllcer of the watch ; a Ixiat was sent to 
 examine i^ when it ajipeared to be a jiicce of drift wood, which had 
 been siptee/ed up by the ice. The shore was strewed with il, ami 
 one spar was as large as our mainmast, and l."» feet in length. We 
 erected a cairn and left a notice. In the forenoon about thirty natives 
 came off in two baidars ; from whom we obtained some lish and ducks, 
 in exchange for a little tobacco. They had been about two nmnths 
 on the coast, and trade with the Russian Pur Company. Their sur- 
 prise, of course, was very great, partieul-^rly at the size of our hand- 
 
^ 
 
 
 
 CAPTAIN* m'cLUKK's DESPATCHES. 
 
 
 kovchiefs (tlie sails) ; the wlink'hoats attrnoted tlu'ir attention, and 
 they asked if trees u;i'('\v in our cotiutry suificiently larj;e to make 
 them.. 'I'he head man possessed a gun, with "Harnett, IS 10," upon 
 the lock ; this he ()l)tained tVom the llussians. As a laii specimen of 
 tile uhservation ot' these people and their aptitude ibr trade, tlie fol- 
 lowing may be taken : — Seeing that we cut the tobacco into pieces to 
 give in exchange for their fish (salmon trout), they began to do the 
 same with the fish. This, however, wc would not admit, so they were 
 oI)liged to eonic to in.v terms. Dining the afternoon, while standing 
 along a low flat island, we observed a Hag (a jjair of sealskin inexpress- 
 ibles) upon a lofty j)ole, and a number of natives around it ; we stood 
 for thein, but when the boats were pulling in they appeared to regret 
 their teiuerit\', for down came the sealskin, and away they ran. Shortly 
 gaining courage, they returned, and, as we a])proached, arranged 
 themselves in line uj)on the beach, and connnenced extending their 
 arms above their heads (typical of friendship), which being answered 
 from tlie boats, perfectly assured them of our amicable intentions. 
 Upon landing they evinced a most manly confidence, rubbing noses, 
 niid embracing most \igurously ; these were very cleanly, so that the 
 ojicration was not so uu])leasant ;is it otherwise might have been. 
 Througli the inteiprcler, Air. Miertsehing, we learnt that these jieople 
 had never Ijefore seen a European, nor had they the smallest article oi 
 Kuropeau manufaetuve about them (Lieuleaaiit ruUen's boats they 
 observed lust year, but they were suuie di^tauoe oiV, and coiiseijuently 
 had no conuuunicatioii). Tiiey live during the summer months upon 
 these desolate islands, and in the winter retire a short distance on the 
 mainland tn their wiuiaer residences. Their women and tents were 
 upon anotlier isliuul. Thev were a line active set of vounu; men, 
 average height nbniit ll\e feet six iiiehes. Thc^e barter their skins, 
 X.'e., with a tribe I'uillier west, who, in their turn, do tlu' same with 
 others, until lluy readi i\iv i'ussian post up(>n the (.olville. To 
 them I intrnsteil a ik-^pateh fur their Lordships, whieh they pro- 
 mised most faithfully should be forwarded to the Colville. 1 made 
 them a few ). resents, also a !)oat's ensign, m eommemoration of the 
 first man-of-war wimse i'lag has ever floated in these sterile regions. 
 The magnificei'.ee of the gift they could not for some time com])rehend, 
 and were loth to toiieli it , but at length the interpreter made them 
 nndersfand it was sent them by a great chief, and in return they were 
 to be very kind to all white men they niet, and show it to them ; all 
 this they promised. The chief then scizeil it iu his arms and ran across 
 the island to his canoe, followed by the remainder of his tribe, and 
 no doubt hurried with the joyful tidings to ttii' women. AVe lind a 
 westerly set whieh ))reveiits our making but slight progress, the wind 
 hanging st) much to the eastward. 
 
 On the morning of the 12th four baidars came alongside, containing 
 the whole eneamjnnent of the tribe we met last night, and also some 
 that we had .seen two days previously, from whieh it appeared they are 
 miiiratory ; they l)rought oil' a suj)ply of fish and a (piantity of veni- 
 son, — but tbi' Ip.tter was in such a state of high jiutreliiction we could 
 not toncli ii. We ;:l!owe(l most of the men to c(»me on board, and, 
 although .-.ill .iw.ifc of ibeir knavish ju'opensities, and, ronse(pienllv, 
 a sharp look-out w;is kcp! upon llieni, llu'y most adroitly managed io 
 slip b<itb bandies of nnv winch and a small ice anchor into their i)aidar. 
 
 4 
 
ittonlion, mul 
 
 nge to iiiiikc 
 
 IHIO," uj.oii 
 
 r s|K'ciiii(ii (il 
 
 Inuli', tlif iol- 
 
 iuto picecs to 
 
 ail to ilo tlic 
 
 so they wore 
 
 lilt' staiuliim- 
 
 <iii ino.\|.ri'ss- 
 
 it ; wo sfooil 
 
 10(1 to I'Ogl'Ot 
 
 van. Shortly 
 0(1, anangod 
 toiuliiig thoir 
 ing' answorotl 
 le intentions, 
 ibbing noses, 
 
 , so that the 
 liavo bcoji. 
 
 those jioojtlo 
 lost artiolo ol 
 s i>oats thoy 
 
 :uiiso(juently 
 months n|)oi) 
 stanoo on llic 
 I tents wore 
 
 youni; nu'n, 
 
 their skins, 
 (• Mune with 
 ;olviilo. To 
 h tlioy pro- 
 He. 1 made 
 I'ation of the 
 ■lilo regions. 
 conij)rehcn(l, 
 
 made them 
 I'n they wore 
 them J all 
 id ran aeross 
 s tribo, and 
 M'r linda 
 Ss, tlic wind 
 
 ', containing 
 id also some 
 red they ai(> 
 tity ol' vciii- 
 ;)n we cnnld 
 l)oard, and, 
 >ns('(piontly, 
 managt'd to 
 hoir i)ai<lar. 
 
 TAfTAlN M'CLl'RE'a l-i;si'.\ IClll'.S. 7 
 
 when the fail' sex became the recipients. It was l»y the greatest acci- 
 dent that the theft was discovered by the end of one handli prolriidini, 
 from beneath the ample proportions of the lady, who, whon taxed, 
 innnediately returned the ;tielos, and informed n|)on her husband. 
 For this immorality the whole boat was exomjttod from receiving any 
 present. Working to the eastward observed a fow deer upon one of 
 the low islands, but was prevented sending any boat, as a south east cur- 
 rent was sotting us into shoal water very fast, so thai ail the boats were 
 roquired to tow until S p.m., wlion a light air ran us t(t the westward 
 into six fathoms ; the loose ice was in rapid moliou. and tiie larger Hoc 
 ]»icces, as they ))assed, ai)peare(l to create a current which frequently 
 turned the vessel completely round against helm and sails, the power of 
 a two-knot breeze being insidlieiont to connteraet it. On the nujrniug 
 of the l.'Uh we were enveloped in a dense log, among exceedingly heavy 
 and <'lose-sailing ice, through wiiieh we attempted to work, but found 
 tliat endeavouring to avoid one jiiece we ran upon another, striking 
 oeeasioually with great force, which determined nie to secure to a tloe 
 until it cleaved. In this we fortunately succeeded, getting one tluit was 
 grounded in seven fathoms. It was a heavy piece, but not so much so 
 as many that were about us. I took its height above the water in seven 
 places, which gave an average of 1 1 feet 1 1 inches ; a pack chiefly 
 composed of such wouhl l)e too powerful a foe for any ship long to con- 
 tend against. At S a.m. of the 1 Ith, it having cleared alittle, slipped 
 from the floe, aad connnoncod workinii' to the eastward among masses 
 ol n'o. At iD'.SO a.m. observed a shoal just in time to avoid it ; it 
 was completely hidden from view olV deck, not being as high as the 
 ice, having a (piantity of driftwood upon it, which is in great abundance 
 ;doiig the coast. At ,"■.'>() p.m. our course was impeded by aiu)ther of 
 thoe low islands, which had the ice rosliug upon its northern extreme, 
 uhili- the southern point was flanked by a slioal, whicli connected it 
 with the island seen in the morning. A\'e wore thus perfectly hemmed 
 in. The boats were sent to sound, whon Air. Conrt represented a ]>as- 
 :;!!;<' i)riu'tieable in .'{ fathoms. In runnin<i; thv(m!'h wo unfovtunatelv 
 Iiil upon a spot with only 21 fatlioms, whieh had escaped observation ; 
 we bad conse(piently to lighten tiie vessel considerably before slie got 
 ofl", which, however, was aoecunplished without any damage (the bottom 
 lieing sand) by 1 1 j).ni., having been ()n shore five hours. I regret to 
 add, that eleven casks of salt nu-at, which were placed in the first 
 whale-boat, were lost by her upsetting, lieing oompollod to place the 
 j.rovisions in the whalers, tlie cutters having I he l»ower anchors in 
 ibem. This was a serious loss; imleed, an irreparable calamity. As 
 soon as we were off, it was my wi^h to return by the way we came in, 
 but we found that the ice had set np(tn ti;e shonl we hail lirsf observed, 
 .anil cut off our retreat, nnder which circumstances I was obliged to 
 anchor and wait a change of wind. I'pon the Hith the wind came 
 slightly from the westward, which sot the ice in motion off the north 
 point of the island. At !) a.m. weighed and towed to the edge of the 
 iee, which presented a barrier of aliont ."idlt yards in width between us 
 and the open water we wished to gel into. We enmmeneed warping at 
 :>. p.m., and so heavy was the iee ihal it was lutt until S p.m. tliat we 
 could get tlirough ; it, fell calm, so maili' last to ibe iee tor the night. 
 Next tnorniiig, the 17lh, a very (biek fog, witb light northeasf wind, 
 and at 4 a.m. commenced kedging to the eastward, J)nt at 7 a.m. gave 
 
^' 
 
 8 CAPTAIN M'CT.URR's PE3PATCITE9. 
 
 it up ; the wind fieshcncil, ami unable to see for fog. At 2 p.m. it 
 c'loared; we slii)|)ed (loni the ioe nnd plied to the north-east amid 
 heavy steams and lartte Hue pieces, vessel striking violently, hut un- 
 avoidably against them. 
 
 August IH. — Today, from the mast-head, observed the first lane of 
 open water in the j)ack, extending east and west several miles, but very 
 narrow. In the evening a fresh bree/.e from the south-west, and almost 
 simultaneously a slight pitching motion was observed, which is con- 
 sidered an infallible symptom of open water being near. It was so 
 foggy that nothing could be seen ; but, notwithstanding, I shaped a 
 course north-north-west for Banks's Land, thinking that we had 
 rounded the pack, having coasted it between lOO and ;'»()() miles ; we 
 continued the greatest part of the night to run without much obstruc- 
 tion, but upon the following morning, the 19th, our progress was 
 cheeked by finding that we had run into a deep bight, wliich compelled 
 us to work back again to the south-east. 
 
 August 20. — Before getting clear of this pack, into which we had 
 penetrated a considerable distance, being decoyed by a few lanes of 
 open water, we were compelled to run 70 miles south, which placed us 
 in Int. G9T)()' N. long. l.'iG" AO' W. It is seldom that observations 
 can be obtained, this being only the sixth set since the .5th of the 
 month, the fog and mist being more continuous than I ever remember 
 to have met elsewhere. 
 
 August *21. — We have siicceeded in getting again into clear water. 
 At 1 ]).m. made the IVlly Islands, off the mouth of the Mackenzie; 
 the coast is, Jiowever, so excessively shoal, that I find it impossible to 
 reach the main land, which I was very anxious to accomplish, but, nt 
 the distance of forty miles from it, was obliged to tack in 3 fathoms ; 
 we passed the line of its tide most distinctly marked about ten miles 
 further north, the water being the colour of the Thames at Woolwich, 
 slightly brackish, and its temperatiu'e WS) degrees, the sea, four hours 
 previously, being 2!S degrees. From what I have observed of the pack, 
 1 feel convinced that any attempt to reach Banks's Land tbrough it 
 would only terminate in failure, ami the consequent loss of valuable 
 time, but by working between its edge and the shore, have confidence 
 in making a'good advance this season ; it is, therefore, my intention to 
 pursue the latter method, and, in so doing, deviate from my original 
 purpose of pushing into the ice, as mentioned in my letter to their 
 Lordships, dated the li)th of July. 
 
 August 2'-*. — Fog during the whole of the night very dense, but, 
 l-.iving much open water upon the eastern shore from the Mackenzie 
 towards Cape Batburst, had no difficulty in working along it; in 
 soundings from four to eight fathoms, — which latter was the extent that 
 the ice permitted us off sliore. At noon a slight clear discovered to us 
 
 cluster of islands, which a very indifferent observation (lat. 09" ,'M' 
 N., long. I.S.r !)' W.) points out as those of Pelly. 
 
 August 2.'i. — A fine clear day, the temperature rising to 40 degrees 
 at noon. Made the northern extreme of Itichard Island from the mast- 
 head, and l)y a good observation established our position lat. G9" iil'N., 
 long. l.'J.T IS' W., the water towards the shore being perfectly clear of 
 ite, which agrees with the account given by Sir John Richardson that 
 the natives observe no ice for two moons ; but these never quit the land 
 any distance, for were they to extend their excursions JO miles further 
 
 
 n( 
 T 
 
 e> 
 in 
 
 se 
 
 "1 
 hi 
 
 i1 
 
CAPTAIN M'CLTIRE's DFSl'ATCriF.S. 
 
 At 2 p.m. it 
 rth-east amid 
 iitly, l)ut un- 
 
 e first lane of 
 lilos, hut very 
 it, and almost 
 vliich is con- 
 r. It was so 
 '„ I shaped a 
 tl^at wo had 
 00 miles ; we 
 luch obstnic- 
 )iogross was 
 ch compelled 
 
 uch we had 
 few lanes of 
 ich placed us 
 observations 
 r)th of the 
 er remember 
 
 clear water. 
 
 Mackenzie ; 
 mpossible to 
 plish, but, nt 
 3 fathoms ; 
 ut ten nnles 
 it Woolwich, 
 , four hours 
 of the pack, 
 d through it 
 
 of valuable 
 e confidence 
 
 intention to 
 my original 
 tor to their 
 
 dense, but, 
 e Mackenzie 
 long it; in 
 
 extent that 
 )vered to us 
 (lat. G9" 'M' 
 
 40 degrees 
 in the mast- 
 . 69" t'N., 
 ?tly clear of 
 xrdson that 
 nit the land 
 liles further 
 
 H 
 
 north than our position, they would see the pack solid and impenetrable. 
 This, Iiowever, gives ample space for navigation, the soundings being so 
 exceedingly regulur that, during the most foggy weather, wo can stand 
 in shore with tlie most perfect confidetice to 'A\ fathom.s. A whale wiis 
 seen to day, l)eing only the third since rounding Point IJarrow ; although 
 upon the day we were off that point seven were counted. 
 
 August 'il.- ()l)serve(l huts and natives oif Point Warren. I 
 hastily close this comnnmication in the b.ope of its reaching their Lord- 
 ships this year through Fort (tood Hope, as I imagine these people 
 communicate with the Mackenzie. I have written to the ('ompanv's 
 officer at the above-mentioned post, to recpiest his exertions in sending 
 it forward. 
 
 In conclusion, it gives me much jtleasure to state that the whole of the 
 crew are in excellent health and spirits. The season a|)pears exceedingly 
 favourable, the temperature being mild and the water ])erf('Ctly free 
 from ice along the shore as far as we can see. It was niy intention to 
 touch at (.'ape liathurst, with the chance of being able to forwaid this 
 des})ateh, wliich will now not be necessary, but I shall nuike the most of 
 the remainder of the season by getting to the vorthward in pursuance 
 of their Lordships' directions. 
 
 I have the honour to be, Sir, 
 
 Your most obedient, luunble Servant, 
 
 IIOBEIIT -M'CLUIM'], (Commander. 
 
 //( y Mdji -Ill's /ilscDi-cn/ S/iip Iiintitii/iifiir, o/^' Cajii' llntlinisl, Polar Sea: 
 ill/. 70" T.]' A'., hiiij. 127'' '.7' //'. ' /III f/ II St ;$(). 1S.')0. 
 
 Sir, — Having closed my uespateh of the 'J lib, with an intimation 
 that it uonhl be left near Point Warren with the natives observetl from 
 tiie ship, in aeeordancc with tliat intention 1 proceeded to the shore. 
 Why it was not so left 1 shall, in contintialiou of m\ narrative, relate. 
 From the contiguity of this tribe to the Maekenzie, I was naturally Ud 
 to imagine that their trade was with the Hudson's IJ.ay Company, 
 (ilreat, therefore, was my surprise upon approaching the Ix'aeh to find, 
 instead of being greeted with the usual Irieiidly signs, that two savages, 
 w'th gesticulations the most menacing, having bended bows with 
 arrows on their strings, and one with a large knife, which he brajulished 
 most significantly, waved us off. Taking no heed of these hostile 
 denK)nstrations, we pulled in ; they retreated, yelling I'uriously ; upon 
 oiu- reaching the full of the beach we made the same signs of friend- 
 ship which we had made with the Escpiimaux further west, bnlwithmit 
 any effect until joined by the interpreter, who was in t'nll native cos- 
 tume. This gave them confidence, and, upon his explaining our friendly 
 intentions, they approached ; but when within about thirty yards, 
 renuu'king some uuiskets which the boat's crew had, their fury revived ; 
 to pacify them they were laid upon the ground, where they beeanu' the 
 object of cautious examination ; still unsatisfied, they beckoned to lake 
 them to the boat; seeing that nothing short of this wcndd allow of any 
 couinumieatiou, I sent them away, when they apj)roaehecl, and per- 
 mitted us to exanune their bows and arrows. 
 
 Mr. Miertsching informed me that we had been observed at five 
 
1 
 
 !i 
 
 I 
 
 I ^ 
 
 10 
 
 CAITAIN M'cLURE's DK8PATCHF.8. 
 
 o'clock in tlio moniinj;; the wliolc tribe Imtl irnmoili.iUlv Inkcn to 
 their baidnrs, witli their most vahiahle skins, and k'ft the settlenient, 
 with (lie execptioii of the dueC ami his son, who remained to defend 
 their j)roi)orty, as it wonld liave l)een undignified to n tire when danp;cr 
 was appreliended, A sick son and his motlicr, seeing our friendly dis- 
 position, soon joined us. Dr. Armstrong examined the poor lud's foot ; 
 it was in a frightful state of mortification. The chief stated that they 
 were at war with the ncighhouring trihea, and iiad occasional skirmishes 
 with the Indians ; that they had no cominnnioation with any jierson 
 lielonging to the Great Hiver (iMaekonzie), nor had they seen .iny white 
 peoj)le Itelbre ; hut, when the sea freezes (the latter end of next month), 
 the whole tribe proceed west and trade\vith tlic Estpiimanx whom we had 
 met near Jones's Island. The interpreter told him that he had found 
 a brother in the chief of one of those tribes, whose name was At tan- 
 was ; the old chief clapped his hands and said he knew him well ; that 
 he was the great chief he traded with, and their reason for going sucii 
 a distance, in preference to the Mackenzie, was that the white man had 
 given the Indians very bad water, which killed many, and made others 
 foolish (drunk), and that they would not have any such water ; from 
 this it evidently appears that the Comjjany lose annually many valiial>le 
 skins, which find their way to the Colville, instead of the Mackenzie. 
 
 Observing an old Hat brass button suspended from the ear of the ehief, 
 he said it was taken from a white man who bad been killi-d by one of bis 
 tribe, who went away in his kyack when the vessel wiis seen. The wiiitc man 
 belonged to a party which had landed at Point Warnn, and there built 
 a house ; nobody knew how they came, ,is they had no boat, but that 
 they went inland ; the man killed had strayed from the party, and that 
 bo and his son buried him upon a hill at a little distance. The ouly 
 answer we could obtain as to the ]m)l)al)le time when this transaction 
 took jdaee was, " that it might be last year, or when I was a child." 
 To examine the grave I was very anxious, but was prevented by the 
 state of the weather, becoming foggy with fresh l>reeze, which conipclled 
 our immediate return to the shiji ; so, making them a few presents, we 
 parted on very amicable terms. This intelligence appeared of so 
 important a nature, with respect to the white men on the point, that I 
 determined to remain until it became sutliciently clear to land and 
 cxiiniinc the house, which might possibly contain s<mie indication of 
 the missing expedition — this detained me IS hours, but to ha\e left 
 with a doubt would have been a subject of perpetual regret. 
 
 At 2 a.m., on the following morning, the '2."»th, we reached the I'oint, 
 the weather being tolerably clear. The interpreter. Dr. Armstrong, 
 and myself, went on shore in eager expectation of discovering some ehu' 
 t bat would lead to a knowledge of the parties ; but in this wf were 
 miserably disappointed ; two huts, indeed, were there, to excite iiopcs, 
 )>nt upon approaching them we found the woodwork to be peri'ectlv 
 rotten, ami of a very old date, without any description of mark to yield 
 the slightest information. The general appearance of the count iv 
 about tbe Point was low and marshy, covered with grass, moss, juill 
 llowers, the bveediug-plaee of the eider-duck, and every species of wild 
 fowl; we also remarked the footmarks of tlie fox and reindeer 
 
 so 
 
 fertile a landscape I could not anticipate upon the chores of tbe Polar 
 Sea. 'I'iie interpreter, from his knowled.';;e of tbe euslonis of tlie 
 Ks(pnmanx, is of opinion that the story (»f tbe white man is traditionary, 
 
 
 V 
 
CArjAiN m'ci.li;ek despatches. 
 
 11 
 
 iti'lv tiikrn U) 
 
 he si'tlloiuent, 
 
 incd to (U'fnul 
 
 r w lie II (Inufjcr 
 
 ir iricmUy ilis- 
 
 »oor lad's loot ; 
 
 ntecl that they 
 
 nal skiniiishcs 
 
 th any person 
 
 ioeii any white 
 
 next month), 
 
 : whom wo had 
 
 he had i'oiiint 
 
 me was Atlau- 
 
 um well ; that 
 
 i'ov going sueh 
 
 white man had 
 
 d made others 
 
 1 water ; from 
 
 many vahiahjf 
 
 Maekenzie. 
 
 arol'the ehii'l', 
 
 hy one of his 
 
 The wliitenian 
 
 iiid there huilt 
 
 boat, hut that 
 
 arty, and that 
 
 L'c. The only 
 
 lis transaction 
 
 was a ciiild." 
 
 ented hy the 
 
 ieh compelled 
 
 presents, we 
 
 peared of so 
 
 point, that 1 
 
 to land and 
 
 iiidieation of 
 
 to ha\e Kfi 
 
 led the I'oint, 
 
 Arnistrono', 
 
 ing some eliic 
 
 this we were 
 
 excite hopes, 
 
 lie perfectly 
 
 nark to yield 
 
 the eonnliy 
 
 Rs, moss, and 
 
 'cies of wild 
 
 reindeer ; so 
 
 of the Pol-n- 
 
 MOis ol' the 
 
 liaditionnrv, 
 
 — pnthahly some of the early discoverers had hcen engaged in some 
 idVray with ihe ancestors of the present chief, and one of them had 
 liein Killi'd. The present peneration inherit the honour, and so identify 
 tlieinsrlves with lluir I'urci'alhers, speaking of the transaction in the 
 first pers(ui, as if Uiey themselves were the actors ; whieh is very likely 
 from the vague definition of the time — " it might he last year, or when 
 I was a child ;'" so the history of the white mnu will still continue a 
 mystery. We also heard that last year two boats came from the west- 
 ward, and landed at Point Warren, and then returned. I cannot 
 imagine what l)()ats these could he, unless they were those of Lieu- 
 tenant I'uUen, who, in thick weather, might have missed the ^raekenzie, 
 and, hy sights obtained at the I'oint, discovered his error. They had 
 not seen any this year, 
 
 Aug '20. — N.E. winds and snow, occasionally clearing, so that the 
 land could be discerned, which presented the same low line, with a few 
 conical hills a short distance inland. We saw a few old tents, hut not 
 a native. Two whales passed us close to the vessel, one very large, 
 although only in six fathoms of water. 
 
 Aug. 27. Light northerly winds and thick fog. It was niy 
 intention to send a Ijoat alongshore, that she might examine it thoroughly, 
 as the water to the eastwarcl of Cape IJrowu i)erniits us standing within 
 two miles uf the coast, and take her on hoard in the evening ; Imt, 
 under the eircumstanco of thick weather, I could not venture to do so, 
 fearful of being detained by missing her. 
 
 Aug. 2S. — Light winds from X.E., with a mild, cloudy day. At 
 noon. Cape DaUiousie S.W. 1 2 miles, several masses of drift ice, some 
 of the pieces very heavy, which, however, is not any obstruction to our 
 progress, as the sjjace of open water is ample for sailing. We have 
 i'omul, during the last four days, a current va-'ying from 1 1 to l(i miles 
 daily, setting to the southward. We have had no opjiortunity of 
 shooting; the gicatest jiart of the birds had taken their southern llight 
 liefore our arrival , the few Hocks that we have seen were very shy, and 
 iiuapproaehable. 
 
 Aug. i21).— -\'eiy dense fog, with liglit wind from N.E., which cleared 
 at noon suifieiently to obtain a meridian altitude, and found that we 
 had been set since yesterday south 12 nnles. Cape Dalhousie distant 
 S^W. (trui-) o miles ; the fog enveloped \is again while standing olf 
 shore, when we ran into a narrow channel, having but three and a half 
 fathoms on either side, which comjielled us to bear up west. This 
 carried us into deep water in about I.") minutes. In the ecmrse of the 
 al'ternoon we fell in with very heavy drift ice, composed of large Hoc 
 jiieces, occasionally becoming entangled in consequence of the thick fog, 
 although there was much open wrter among it. 
 
 Aug. ;^0. — Wind from the northward, with clear weather. Observ- 
 ing a mark on the beach upon the island off Maitland I'oint, in 
 Livi'r})ool-bay, sent Mr. Sainsbury (mate) to examine it, and to leave a 
 iioliee of our passing. Upon his return he rejiorted that an Escpiimaiix 
 • ■lU'amjtment had recently broken up, the traces of their tents and 
 footmarks being (juitc distinct. We observed from the ship several 
 iciiidecr, which were not seen by the p.nrty on shore. In standing 
 along (lie co.nst, oliserving natives, 1 ran in to forward this despatch, 
 trnsliiig if might reach the Hudson's IJay (^onijiany this year, which is 
 probfililc, if I bey arc not as grc.nt a set of savages as wo met near Point 
 
12 
 
 CArTAiN M'rr.rnK's nr.spATCiiFs. 
 
 Wnrron. I hope to round Cnpp Hntlmrst to-morrow. This will 
 tlu-rot'orc, lie the last roimmniiiiition which if will, in nil prohiihility, he 
 ill my power to ninkc to their lionlships. The temperature has 
 hitherto heeii exeeeiliiigly mild, theriiiometer heinj; very seldom helow 
 .'{•i", and, from (he present favonrahle aj)penranee, hotli of the weather, 
 i\\u\ slate of the ice, I Imve very sfronii; ho|)es of !:;ettin<x well to the 
 northward ere thejiaviu;alioii ceases, which will l)e ahont the hdf»'r eml 
 of next month, aceonlini^ to l''s(piinianx report. 
 
 I have the hononr to ho, Sir, 
 
 Yonr most ol)edient hnmhle Servant, 
 
 UOHEIJT M'CUJHi:, Connnaiider. 
 
 
 //()• Md'icatii'n Disiovvni Sliij) /unslii/iilor, o//' Cnjir lUillnirsI, Pitlur S'tn, 
 
 \iii<iiis! ;5(). I'sr.o. ill In. 7()"' 'js'.v,', foiif/. rjs'^ XV //■. 
 
 Siu, — In accordance with 'he intention expressed at the conclusion 
 of my last letter, I jiroceeded in the tlrst whale-Ixmt, aceompanied hy 
 Dr. Armstrcmg and Mr. jMierls"hin^, followed hy Lientenant {'resswell 
 and a party of olHcers in a cutter, !)rinii;ini; a variety of presents. We 
 were mot upon landing;; hy two women, who i>;reeted us very i'ordially, 
 and, through the mctlium of the interpreter, accpiainted me that the 
 remainder of tlio trihe were at (ape IJnthurst, catching whales, which 
 was nt no great distance, and they would he our guides, (iladly availing 
 ourselves of this apj)nrently fortunate incident, the hoats were directed 
 to jtuU along shore, while we, asccmling the clilf, reached n tine level 
 plniii, extending several miles north and south, rich with verdure, and 
 ahouiiding in moss. We preferred walking, hoi)ing to meet some rein- 
 deer, for which the ])astnre was excellent ; hut mile after mile was walked 
 without any aj)pearance of the fishing jtarly. Arriving, alter the expi- 
 ration of three hours, in asiin\ll hay, we were, however, gialilied at being 
 told this was the spot uhere two l)oals, the year helore last, had jtitehod 
 their tents for the night (Sir ,T. Kiehardson), and we had to go a very 
 little further. On reaching the next hay, \\v found there two tents, 
 which our guides said helonged to them ; hut the ('ape, or any appear- 
 ance of the trihe, could not he seen. We declined going any further, as, 
 in conse(iuence of the wind falling light, the vessel was hy this time hull 
 down. We were then kindly invited to heeome partakers (jf their tents, 
 and to go on the next morning, which hospitahle offer was not accepted ; 
 hut, bartering several articles in exchange for salmon, ;iiul making them 
 a few presents, we returned on hoard, when, at 10.. 'id p.m., it lieconiing 
 dark and foggy, and getting into ."»', fathoms, we .•inchori'd for the night. 
 
 August ,Slst, at daylight, found that we wero helwi'cu tin" mainland 
 and Ihiilley'.s Islands, alxiut a mile from the latter, the wc'illier still 
 foggy, with a moderate X.W. hreize ; i)iU determined, if possiliie, to 
 discover the fishing party, at /'..'>(> a.m. I left the ship, with Mr. Mierts- 
 ching anil Dr. Arn\strong in (ho cutler, and, after coasting idiout ten 
 miles, discovered, u|)()n tiie extrrmity of (!ape JJathurst, a large eiu'amp- 
 inent, consisting of oO lents and nine winter houses, mnnhering a little 
 over .'}()0 people. Upon landing upon a very low isthnms, which eomieets 
 within a few yards the islands and mainland, we remarked a commotion 
 at the village, and a number of men rushed down the cliffs, launched 
 
 J 
 
ow. This will 
 II |ir()l)}il)ilif_v, he 
 ['inpcrnturL'* Ims 
 •y scliloiii hclow 
 <'<■ (Ik' wciidicr. 
 in.U' well lo III,. 
 i< till- Inlfcr I'litl 
 
 rvniil, 
 ('onmiaiKlci'. 
 
 iirxl. Polar Sn, 
 1' //. 
 
 (lie ooiicliisioii 
 K't'onipaiiird l»v 
 t'liant (.'ross we'll 
 |)ri'S('ntt;. MV 
 very c'ordially, 
 '»I me tliat the 
 \vhales, wljich 
 (ilatlly availing 
 s were directed 
 it'd n tine level 
 ' verdure, and 
 Pot some reiii- 
 lile was walked 
 idler the (..xpi. 
 '(died at beinf^ 
 f. Iiiid piteheil 
 I '<> !;■(• a very 
 3re two tents, 
 '»■ niiy appear- 
 •ly further, as. 
 this time hull 
 of their tents, 
 iiotaeeejited ; 
 making them 
 , It IxToiuiui:; 
 f"i'(he nighf. 
 'he iiiainiand 
 ws'.'ithcr sfill 
 pii-'siltie, »<. 
 • 'Mr. .Mierts- 
 iii!,' aljoiir (cii 
 >',!4,e eneauip- 
 'I'riii^ a little 
 hieheomieets 
 <*i coMiniotion 
 Ifs, launched 
 
 I 
 
 t AI'IAIN .M'i I.I Kl.'s 1)I,.S|'.\U ||i> 
 
 1.5 
 
 (heir kyaeK>, and I'rossed to meet us. Ilaulii.;;; these lii^lit and eleu,imt 
 skin's oil the iieaeli, they advaiiei'd with knives drawn and Imihs lieiit, 
 t vidriidy pfiparcd fur Imslililies. iMiidiiii;:; hy our j;i-.tiires that our 
 iiileuliniis well' ■iiiiiealile, their licus wen- reliiriu-d to tlieir sealskin east s, 
 lull the knives tiny still reiaiiied. 'riir iiiterpri'ier told tlu'iu that our 
 visit was i'rieiidiv, and that they should put away their knives. " Yes," 
 said (hey, " when you do your mms." To he idlowed to carry the 
 uniskel appeare<l a !'.i">'iil favour, for which tluy presented you with their 
 knife, as a token of iiieiidship. We reinaiiH'd upwards of nn hour; 
 diirinu; l!ie greater pari ttf tin- time, Mr. Miertsehini; was in eiiniest con- 
 M'lsation with tiie chief— a line, iiitellii;eii(, middle-aged man- upon the 
 iii'cessily ot' his forwardiu_!; our ilespatehes to 'die Mackenzie, which he 
 promised most faitldully lo |)erforni, for which he was lo receive a musket 
 and aiumunition, and, u|)ou his delivcriin!; ihe piU'kel, a further reward 
 ( (pial in value to a silver Ibx-skin. Jle, however, said that lluir Irilie do 
 not trade with the ^Mackenzie, hut with another further south, who in 
 iheir turn Irallie with the Indians wlio are in the service of the Hudson's 
 Hay Company ; so, as they have to pass through three tribes of the 
 heathen before they «'ome into the bauds o(' civilized man, 1 think it 
 cxtrciiu'ly probai)le that thev may la ver reach their de.stinaliou. Mr. 
 Micrlscidiii:', iVoiii his kiiowled'^e of tlu' Msipiiiiiaiix character, thinks 
 o;ber\Aise, aiid ima!.>;ines thai the chief will himself «'arry them. The 
 perfect iMsc witli which tliis t;entleman understands and converses with 
 these iutercstim; |H'ople surprises lluiu very much; they were most 
 ;ui\i'ius for him to remain, promisinj; to be very kind. The cliu'f jue- 
 seiited his daui^hler, a very pretty !;irl ot' al)out I."), who should he his 
 wile; (enlsand ;dl ap])urtenaiices were to beadded. While tl;eje nego- 
 liations were uoini;' forward, npwarilsof 100 persons liad descei'jled from 
 the >.il!a;;,e; with such a coiicoui'se I did not think it prudent to open 
 the baiv eonlaiiiiin:; the presents, well kuowiui; their cupidity is easily 
 e\ei(ed hy the ilisplay of such valuables, when they are not to be relied 
 on. \\c consequently returned to the boat. \Vhcu the clnef was 
 instructed in the use of his gun, he showed himself mi ajit pupil, and 
 when the ammunition was given into his hands, expressed liimself very 
 nuieh gratified at the gift, and walked towards the village with his chief 
 men. A line was then made on (he beach, which the recipients of gifts 
 were not to pass (and this they })erfectly understood), and the inter- 
 jireter then commenced the distribution. For a little time order was 
 maintained ; hut the fair sex becoming clamorous iuid closing round, the 
 line was broken, and, to prevent being driven into the water, we were 
 compelled to retreat to the boat, which was lying aground about 'JO yards 
 from the hcacli. By this manoeuvre, we escaped from all that had not 
 on water-tight boots, but still about 10 surrounded the cutler ; and, 
 although all the crew were stationed round her to jirevcnt their getting 
 on board, so eager and persevering were the women that several wt-re 
 lifted in, endeavouring to seize everything within their reach ; one of 
 them, in the most dexterous maimer, slipped the compass out of its box 
 into the breast of her jacket, and with (lifiieulty it was recovered. It 
 was only by great firmness and stojijiage of the supplies that wo reduced 
 them to order, or to quit the boat. The presents being at length dis- 
 tributed, and every one in good humour, we wished them farewell, and 
 commenced launching the boat, in which operation they most vigorously 
 assisted, and 1 7, in their fairy kyacks, escorted us to the ship, arriving 
 
r 
 
 14 
 
 tiAl'TAlN mV'1,1 UI;'s |i|;sl'A'lt'lll'>. 
 
 w* 
 
 ; \ 
 
 nlioiit ;i f|iiiirtov kI an htmr hi'litrc wo iIkI — cvccitt unr, ulm Itiuiii.i; jj;nl 
 soiin- lilllr tlihdniti' nil tlir sliuif, iiicoiiiili red ii iVoli lini/c imd iimj;li 
 Mon. We slioilt'iU'd siiil, iiixl look liojit niid nil iii. 'I'lic |iooi I'lllnw 
 lu'iiij; dri'iiflird, we olVc'icd liini a litdc Itniiidy, wliicli In dniuk al a 
 inoiillilul, not Ikmiiu; awari' of its str('iip;lii. lie siilVcnd llic sriisalion to 
 Mid)si(K' witiiout t'vinciiit"; (o\oi|>t l»y his eyes wati-rinu;) any syniploin ol' 
 vexation, and tlu-n nsKcd for wati'v. Many cniiu' on hoard the -liiii, Itnl 
 oiu' only vouturcd hcjow, who was cxrccdin^ly >or|niscd (o lintl tlnl \\v 
 had not tents, hut houses (cahins), and said hi- sh.iuld have luanv 
 wondi'ri'nl things to relate when he weni houic This Irihc is a liui' 
 intelligent race — cleanly, handsome, and wdl^rown , and I (h'e|ily renrcl 
 that so little luis heeu hitherto attenijtted in oivili/int: them. I sin- 
 oerely ho|)e that the day is not far distant when this interestinj; people 
 may he redeemed from their «leplorahle state of heathen darkness. 
 
 At r>. 10 p.m. we wci!j;hcd, with a moderate hreeze from the !*!.^^ ., and 
 reached to the S.K. for the purpose of clearing!; Hailley'« Islands. .\t !» 
 tacked and stood to the N.W., the wind hecomintj \\<<(\\l and variahlc. 
 During the nij^ht we made h\it little pro{i;ress ; and at s a.m. on the 
 morninfj; of Scptcmhev 1, ohservcd ('ajie llathurst, N 11. hy K. (i miles. 
 In the comse of the forenoon many kyacks came oil'. The natives, ia)w 
 assured of our friendly intentions, eame on l)oard without the ^.li!i;hte,s( 
 reluctance, and, thron;;h the medium of the inti'rpreter, ae«(uaiiili(l us 
 that during the night they had heen prejtnring a feast, roasting Avhale 
 aiul venison, and had salmon, hluhher, and other delicacies, hesidcs plenty 
 of skins, ready at the tents, and hoped we would t-ome on shori, which, 
 indeed, I should have very much enjoyed had the vessel heen in a less 
 precarious jiosition ; hut under the [tresent circiunstances it was inijjos- 
 sihle, which it appeared that those on shore understood, for in the 
 afternoon a great many of hoth sexes joined us , and, all heing clamorous 
 to get on hoard, we were ohliged to take their kyacKs on deck. Siting 
 their boats were in safety, they made themselves jjorfcctly at home, 
 examining every article of furniture most minutely. The pictures and 
 looking-glasses in the olhcers' cahins were ohjerts of nnich admiration. 
 Many were dancing with our nu'u, and so mutually happy were all 
 parties, that it was near (i o'clock hetore 1 could get them to leave the 
 ship; indeed, had not the interpreter told them that wc were going 
 towards tlic pack, and would not again come near their tents, I very 
 unicli (piestion if we shoidd have got them away without com|tulsion. 
 AVe umlerstood from them that the main pack is j)ermanent, never leaving 
 the shore above 12 or 1 I miles. They designate it as the "laud of the 
 white bear," as it abounds with those animals, which they appeared 
 rather to dread, as, when we stood towards the pack in the Ibrenoon, 
 they entreated not to be left there, ab they were feari'ui of the hear now- 
 thai so many of their women were with them, Om- mother mentioned 
 that she had lier little child carried away hy one of them a short time 
 previous, while playing on the shore a little distance from her. The poor 
 creature shed tears in relating the catastrojjhe. At parting several 
 presents wert* bestowed upon them, which had the olVeet of eliciting 
 promises of fricndshii) for us or anv of our white hrethrou who niisht 
 conu! on then- coast. These j)eo])le had no article of European manu- 
 facture, except a few iron pots, which rcilaiiilv lluv gavi a very 
 formidable price for — no less than live of fhcl.uv.t i.ilvir lo\-L.kin;) lor 
 each. The tribe leave the Cape about the JOth ot Septendjer, when the 
 
 ie»' 
 wit 
 dis 
 
 yea 
 
 pae 
 be 
 sh. 
 riei 
 of 
 vee 
 at 
 Ihn 
 advi 
 can 
 bon 
 nigl 
 for 
 rclu 
 ,s 
 
 per: 
 inih 
 
 ai'le 
 lu^n 
 
 y 
 
 i 
 
• Al'TAIN M'CI.I Itl.^ lll:Sl•Alt•|lll;^. 
 
 lA 
 
 u liaviii,:; i^ol 
 '.V mill I'oii^li 
 • |MM»r Ulliiw 
 (hiiiilx III II 
 si'lisalioii (() 
 syiii|i(niii III' 
 llir >lii|i, Itiil 
 liiitl tl>ii( we 
 have )iiMiu 
 il)i' i.s a liiir 
 li('|ily nurd 
 Ik'iii. I sill- 
 ■stiiii; |»i'()|»l(' 
 ikiu'ss. 
 IV S.AV., and 
 amis. At !) 
 ml varialilc. 
 a.m. oil the 
 ■ K. (i niilcs. 
 natives, iiuw 
 tlu' ^li!;liti'sl 
 (■(|iiaiiitiil u-j 
 istiiij; Asliair 
 ('sides pli'iitv 
 hull , wliicli, 
 L't'll ill il less 
 
 was iiiijios- 
 
 , tor ill till' 
 
 iji clainoroiis 
 
 is. Sifiiip, 
 
 I at lioiiii', 
 
 ii'tiirrs and 
 
 idiiiiratioii. 
 
 ty wi'i't' all 
 
 o li'avr iIk; 
 
 wiTi! li'oiiii'; 
 
 iits, 1 very 
 
 iiiipidsioii. 
 
 vcr leaving 
 
 land of the 
 
 ,• appeared 
 
 e toreiiooii, 
 
 e Iteai' now 
 
 inentioiu'd 
 
 short time 
 
 The poor 
 
 iiii; several 
 
 r elieiting 
 
 who might 
 
 lean iiianu- 
 
 i\i a very 
 
 v-jKin..) lor 
 
 ', when the 
 
 eo 
 
 1 
 i 
 
 ice JH siitlieiently stroiij; to lieai then sledges, lor the pnrpose ot' Imrlering 
 with the horderint;; tiihe , they then t!;o to their niiitir hon-is sniiie 
 (listaiiee inland, with the e\eeption ot a lew families, who live the entire 
 vear upon this hlcak and inhospitalde shore. 
 
 Septeniher 2iid. — 1' ine dny, with lis^lit northerly wind, ran alonu; the 
 paek edjj;e, the lee beiii^ heavy and impenetrable, not a drop of water to 
 Ik- seen from the mast-head anioiij; it ; the water hetween it and the 
 shore is praetieahle, allhou};!! eneumhcred with iiineli loose ice. Mxpe 
 rieiiced a stronjj; current from the south-east, which set us to the westward 
 ot IJailley's Islands. Upon the morniii|j; of the .'Jrd the wind gradnally 
 veered to the southward, l)ringiiig with it ii very dense fog, and, heiun 
 at the time surrounded with heavy lloe-pieces and close sailing ice, 
 tliroui;h which it was necessary to pursue our course, so that e\ery 
 advantage might he taken of the favourable bree/e, the vessel oeeasionidly 
 came into violent collision. At noon it cleared a little, when Trail Point 
 bore S.S.W. about seven miles ; sounded in (i."> fatlioms (mud). The 
 nights having a few hours' darkness, lilne lights and rockets are lircd 
 for the purpose of attracting the attention of any parties that might he 
 returning from Wollaston or Victoria Lands bound to the Mackenzie. 
 
 Septeniher Ith. — liight variable winds, with warm weather, the tem- 
 perature vising to 1 1 ; the water along shore free lV(nii ice ; about four 
 miles to the westward of the llorton, somided in s;> fathoms, and shortly 
 alter passed over a narrow shoal having but \'A fathoms ; a few pieces of 
 heavy ice were grounded upon it ; the land appears to average from St) 
 lo l(M( feet in luMght, composed of blue clay, intermingled with sand. 
 .Many whales have been about the ship— at one time eight, and from 
 one to four the grcutcr part of the day. .\ Ixar, the tirst that has been 
 seen, was likewise remarked upon some loose iee iii-shore, but time 
 wiudd not allow of its being imisued. 
 
 September .'». — The weather, which had been sipially, accompanied 
 liy a thick fog, during the early part (if the day, cleared towards noon, 
 win n a large volume of smoke was observed about \2 miles S.W., and 
 ti\e to the eastward of the llorton, in the same pot that it had at- 
 tracted our atti'iition yesterday. .\s divers opinions weie in circulation 
 respecting its probable cause, and the ice-mate having positively 
 reported that from the (-row's-nest he could distinguish several persons 
 moving about, dressed in white shirts, and observed some wliito tents 
 in a hollow of the elitV, I certainly had every reason to imagine they 
 were a party of Ijurojieans in distress, convinced that no traveller 
 would remain for so long a period as we had remarked the smoke in 
 one spot for their pleasure ; therefore, to satisfy myself, eipially as 
 others, 1 determined to send a boat on sliore, as it was now cahii. The 
 lirst whaleboat, under liieutenant ('resswell, with Dr. Armstrong, and 
 Mr. Miertsching, was despatched to examine into the cause, who on 
 iheir return reported the snudse to emanate from 1.") small mounds, of 
 volcanic appearance, i)ecu])ying a sjiaee of about .")(> yards, the jdacc 
 strongly impregnated with sulphur, the lower mounds being about W 
 feet above the sea level, tlie highest about .")() feet. The land in its 
 vieinity was blue clay, much intersected with ravines and deep water- 
 eonrse:^ varying in elevation from ;i()l) to oOl* feet ; the mark of a rein- 
 deir was traced to a small pond of water immediately jdjove the 
 juounds ; a notice ot our having landed was left, which would not long 
 remain, as the cliff is evidently rapidly crumbling away. Thus the 
 
 J 
 
Y 
 
 W. 
 
 Ik' 
 
 f 
 
 'I 
 
 !i 
 
 M I 
 
 III 
 
 ' \n AiN M'( I I i;i, ■^ i>i Mi'An iiin. 
 
 niN>(riv ol llu' wliilc Nliirls .inil tciiU \mis iiiit><l Milisfiirtorilv »\|i|,iiiictl. 
 
 A I 
 
 net /(• 
 
 •ll.Tll 
 
 V »|iiiiiuiii^ III) t'niiii llic \\("^l\Mit'(l, ur iiimiIc -.iill In tin 
 
 lull Ml- sliiii'k so licavilv nmiiiist Inrzc l)IiU' llm'-pirn'x tlinl wtir liiiulv 
 _ ic uii'iiti'st \ iitiliuicc imtl ntlcntioii wcii 
 
 N'.l'l. ; ilnrinu; tin' iii,i;lit it t'lvsliriit'd coiisiilciiiMy, nitli r/iin ami lliirk 
 wiatlicr. 'I'liis, ciiinliiiicil \>itli tour Inuir^' (larkiicss, cuiniK'Hril iiic 
 to sIkiiIci) sail, altlimit;!) loatli to lose- tlic lull hiiulil ni tlu' lair uim 
 
 .p ^. ,..._. .,.111' III »(.'• pirn's 
 
 lice Mini attention Will iiiHiil^ 
 lii'ii'iit to a\oiil tlicni, M) no alternative ceniaineil to iiit'ent 'U .ister, 
 A j;reat nianv xeiils ami wliali's were .•'een in I''iaiil\liii-I);i\ ; m' less 
 tliaii I ."i of tlie latter were plavim:' aiimnd iis at oi c lime, Init very 
 small, or, aeconlinn to (Jreeiilaml lisliiii}; jdirnseolouy, "lia\ini; only 
 lluve-lool hone," so Mr. .Newton, the iee-inate, infonns me. At 
 I a III., iipon tlie niorniiij;' of tlie (itii. we were oil' tlie siiiall islamls 
 iii'ar Cajti' I'arry, lieariiit; N.l'l. i»y N. ten miles, willi a line wi-slerly 
 l)i'iH'/e, and loose sailing ice, inter^persi-d with many heavy ildc-pieiTS ; 
 the main pack was ahoiil three iiiile^ to the N.NV,, aiiiiareiitly out' 
 solid mass. At 1 I ..'ill a.m. Iii^h land was ohserved on the port how, 
 hearinu; N.K. hy N., distant ahoiif .')l) miles. On approaehinu; it, the 
 main pack appeared in 'ir restinj; iijioii the western sliore, wliieli side 
 it was my intention in liave eoasted had it heeii possible ; the eastern 
 one heinj;, however. eom)>aiatively clear, as tar as eonld he nseertaiiied 
 i'roin the mast-head, deeidod me to t'ollow the water, supposing it 
 an island ri)und which a ))assa^e would he t'oiiml into the j'olar Sea. 
 We eoiitiniied workiiit; to windward the whole of the nij;ht, and by 
 \).'M) a.m. of the 7th were olV the South Cape, — a fine bold iieadlniid, 
 the elilVs rising; perpemlieulnrly upwards of a thousand feet, which was 
 named " Lord Nelson's Head," in uieinory of the hern, whoso early 
 career was connected with Arctic ndvouture. Wc shortly afterwards 
 hove to, and, with the first whalehoat and cutter, landed nud took pos- 
 session, in the name of I lor Most (jrii'ious Majesty, callinp; it, 
 " Harings Island," in honour of the FitoL I-wd of the Admiralty. 
 .V |)(de was erected, with a large paiiiti i huil i ;i r it, ue. :- cask 
 
 which was left, containing a notification 
 
 lljci' particulars of our 
 
 having been there. The sight obtained i)y artificial horizon jdace the 
 signal-statr in latitude TT (»' X., longitude 1 23-^ 0' W. ; and the fall of 
 tide was ascertained to be six inches during one hour and a half. We 
 obsorved numerous recent traces of reindeer, hare, and wild fowl ; moss 
 ■id divers species of wild tlowers were also in great abundance; many 
 .'j^i -in IS of tl' m equally, as of other subjects of interest to the natu- 
 ril.a, were selected with nuich care by Dr. Armstrong. From an 
 ctovfttion obtai led of about 500 feet we had a fine view towards the 
 interior, which was well clothed with moss, giving a verdant appear- 
 ance to the ranges of hills that rose gradually to between 2,000 and 
 .'i,()00 feet, intersected with ravines, which murt convey a copious 
 supply of water to a largo lake situated in the centre of a wide plain, 
 idiont l.") miles distant. The sight to seaward was favourable in the 
 extreme ; open water, with a small (juantity of ice, for the distance of 
 full 10 miles towards the east, insured good progress in that direction. 
 Returning on board at 1 p.m., we made sail to the eastward, having a 
 beating wind. Continued working along shore, in soundings varying 
 from y to 7(> fathoms ; dark mud mixed with yellow clay, until 
 close to the land, when it changed to line white sand. The Aveather 
 becoming foggy, our lead was the only guide until 10 a.m. of the Dth; 
 
 I '; 
 
 I 
 
, ii))|)arciitly one 
 )ii tlic port* Ituw, 
 
 icltil'ilv (Alil.iillril. 
 iii;iilc Miii III tlif 
 ill ruin and iliirk 
 is, i-nMi|K'lli'tl nic 
 <»r tlir iiiir uiii., . 
 
 tliiit wiTi' liiiuly 
 ntioii wir. inijiil- 
 
 itii > I'lit ■li-.isicr, 
 ,liii-li; r , 11(1 |(>HM 
 ■ lime, lull vi'iy 
 :y, " liaxinL; oiilv 
 
 ilorui> IMC. At 
 
 lie small islaiiils 
 
 II tine AU'slnly 
 
 icavy ll(.('-j»i(.'i'(.'s , 
 
 par 
 
 III' 
 
 liniachiii^ it, the 
 lioir, wliicli side 
 bit" ; till' oastnii 
 d bf njst'crtaiiii'd 
 or, sii|)j)()sii!j>; it 
 tin; I'olar Scji. 
 (.- ui,u;lit, and by 
 u bold licadlniid, 
 feet, wliicli was 
 ro, whose early 
 ortly afterwards 
 
 d nnd took pos- 
 esty, ealliiio; it, 
 
 tbo Admiralty. 
 
 it, nci' :i cask 
 
 rticnlars of our 
 orizun ))laco tiie 
 and the fall of 
 uid a half. We 
 wild fowl ; moss 
 undance ; many 
 est to the natii- 
 ong. From an 
 
 w towards the 
 icrdant appear- 
 
 veon 2, 000 and 
 nvcy a copious 
 )f a wide plain, 
 ivourable in the 
 
 the distance of 
 I that direction, 
 tward, having a 
 
 udings varying 
 
 ow clay, until 
 The weather 
 
 m. of the Dth; 
 
 CAITAIN .M*cl.rili:» |il,!4l AltllKh. 
 
 1/ 
 
 it tlu-n cleand for a short time, when land . 
 \tai<l, alioiit I.') miles distant, extending to tbi 
 i\(>ciiiild ii'tieb, Tbe iiioiiiitaiiis in the iiitei 
 eM>iTe(l, uliile tlie low j:r<iiiinl is (jiiite liee. 
 peaks MiTi- iliNceniiliie, apparently of voleanic orisiin. 
 was named I'riiiee AUtert's Land, in honour of Her ^' 
 
 Continuing ini 
 
 III 
 
 '>M'i I'd to the east- 
 
 fiortliwiM'd as far :i!i tbo 
 
 are lofty and siiow- 
 
 ■ \eral vi ly reiiiarkaide 
 
 Tlii'' discovery 
 
 aje^fx Consort, 
 
 eoursi. "ilowly to 
 
 atHti,:^ winds, at 
 
 'I ed afler lier 
 
 bit. 72" 1' X., b.iig. 11!> -'.V W. 
 tlie .N.K., in coiise(|ueiu'e of lliiek fog, snow, and 
 S a.m. of tbe iOtb we were near two rocky islet ■*, 
 [{oyiil iligliness the I'riiieess Uoval, the largest be;iig ; lOUt ('00 feet 
 in lieiu;bt, and a mile and a lialt in Iciigtb, the south' i and eastern 
 sides l)ciiig precipitous; the other was about a quarter < a mile long 
 luitl a bumlred feet high, grailually sloping to the water'?) edge, repre- 
 s( iitiiig very much tbe appearance of an inverted \ hale 'loat. The 
 uiiid becoming fair, and weather clearing, all the stiuldiii sails were 
 set with the hope of reaebing Harrow's Str.'iil, from whit i we were 
 now distant abimt "tl miles. Tlie water was toleral)ly ele, ill that 
 diri'ctinii, altlioiigh miieli ice was lying against tbe western iml, and 
 li'iiiii a slioiil e.xleiiding towards it from tbe largest of tbe I'rincess 
 Koyal Islands, upon \Nliich we obtained !.'{ fathoms water ;miieh loose 
 iiH- was also in motion, and while endeavouring to run bet^^ en tw(» 
 lilies, at the rate of four knots, tbey closed so rapidly, on.' iipn i either 
 lienni, that our way was instantly stopped, and the vessel lifte. consi- 
 derably ; in this position we were retained a (piarter of an hour, when 
 tbe |iressiire eased, ami we ^iroceeded. Our advance was of short 
 duration, as at '_' p.m. tbe wind suddenly shifted to the north eat and 
 began to freshen ; the water, which a few hours jirevious had excited 
 sanguine hopes of a good run, became soon so thickly stiiddet! with 
 lilies, tiiHi by '1 p.m. there was scarcely sutHcicnt to keep the ship tree; 
 this by i/iiich exertion was, however, ilfected, until 2 a.m. of the 1 lib, 
 wlien we were be.set ; at ."> a.m. tbe ice again ojiened, which admitted oi our 
 getting a few miles to the north-east, until IL.'iO a.m., when our course 
 was impeded by a very dense pack. At 7 p.m. the wind shifting to 
 tbe north. west, >»et the whole body of the ice upon the eastern shore, 
 wb:i I »liiialed our water from 80 to .")0 fathoms in one hour. A clear 
 spaiwof t*o miles was, however, the result of this movement, in wliioli 
 we ciuitiniicd working the whole night, and upon the morning of tbe 
 i2th we pereeivid we had lost som 'uiles, as the pack was in motion to 
 ll !• loutiiward ; iilwi the further mortification of seeing the whole of 
 the Western shore perfect ly exempt from ice, while the space of water 
 we occupied was hecoming rapidly more limited by very large and 
 heavy iloes, througli \< bicli we were unable to force, and at 11 a. mi 
 were again beset. A fresh gale, with snow, which continued until the 
 morning of the l.'Uh, pressed the ice so heavily upon the vessel that 
 the rudder was unhung to prevent its being damaged ; during the night 
 the temperature fell to 10", and the land became completely snow-covered. 
 On tbe lath, however, it rose to •iO'', with the wind from the S.W., 
 which set the ice in uiotiim, comi)elliug us to shift our berth, to avoid 
 collision with an immense iloe. At 2. .SO a.m. commonced warping, 
 which tedious and laborious duty continued with but slight intermission 
 until half-past ll,*, when we i)assed into clear water. A run of live 
 miles to the X.E. brought us to another icy lield too dense to penetrate, 
 extending from shore to shore, which here are about twelve miles asunder. 
 

 i^'- I 
 
 
 !i ! 
 
 
 ill 
 
 'i! 
 
 ) ' 
 
 M^ 
 
 i i ' 
 
 !' I 
 
 18 
 
 CAPTAIN M'cLUnK's DESPATCHES. 
 
 The weather towards sunset heconiiiig thick witli snow, we ran into six 
 fathoms, and secured to a ])iece of grounded ice under the western 
 hmd, with the intention of remaining (hiring the night, as they were 
 tiien long and dark ; therefore, iiavigatinjf among close ice is (|nite 
 iini(ractical)le. The wind, which had been fresh from the S.W. during 
 ..le day, about 7 p.m. fell light, when the ice in the N.E., tio longer 
 .strained, spread itself al)roa(l with such rapidity that at a little after 
 eight it was observed ai)i)roaching, its white line, clearly defined, run- 
 ning like an unbroken wave along the dark smooth water. To turn 
 the hands up, make sail, .lud cast oft' the warps, was hut the work of 
 a few minutes ; yet, with such violence was it imj)elled, that we had 
 scarcely time to tow clear of the jjiecc we had been fast to before it 
 encircled the vessel, sweejnng her away to the S.W. into five fathoms. 
 I expected to have been driven on the beach : fortunately, from some 
 unseen cause, its course was changed to the S.E., which took us into 
 20 fathoms, thus fluctuating between hopes aiul fears until 11.1.") |).m., 
 when its progress was mysteriously arrested, and, gradually opening 
 out, allowed of our running hito clear water. As the navigable season 
 was now drawing to a close, which the fall in the temperature, as well 
 as the formation of ])aiicake ice upon the surface of the water whenever 
 the wind became light, nnniistakeably pointed out, it I)ecame a sub- 
 ject of anxious consideration what course to adopt in regard to the 
 safety of the vessel ; whether, by running to the southward, in which 
 direction the water was still open, to endeavour to obtain a harbour in om; 
 of the bays indenting the south-eastern side of Baring's Land, the 
 nearest, probably, being GO miles distant, and then only the chance of 
 finding a safe anchorage, which, if our search proved a failure, would 
 place the vessel in a worse situation than at jiresent, exposing her to a 
 wide sea range, sulycct to heavy pressure from the enormous massive 
 floes with which the Polar Sea is encumbered, but from which wc are 
 here protected by the Princess Royal Islands ; or to continue our advance 
 to the north-east as long as the season permitted, and then submit 
 to the only alternative, that of hazarding a winter in the pack. I 
 decided upon the latter, for these reasons, — that to relincpiish the 
 ground obtained through so much difficulty, labour, and anxiety, for 
 only the remote chance of finding safe winter quarters, would be inju- 
 dicious, thoroughly impressed as I am with the absolute imjmrtance 
 of retaining every mile to insure any favourable results while navigat- 
 ing these seas, the loss of which might frustrate the operations of a 
 whole season. Above all, being in the vicinity of IJanks's Land, ami 
 in the direction in which Sir J. Franklin would, in all probability, have 
 endeavoured to j)euetrate, could he have reached Cape Walker, I there- 
 fore considered that our position was most eligible for carrying into 
 full effect the instructions of my Lords Commissioners of the 
 Admiralty, when the season becomes favourable for dispatchiu'^ jiarties 
 upon this important and interesting search. These, Sir, were the 
 considerations which influenced me in this " choice of difficulties," 
 and they will, I trust, appear of sufficient validity to meet with the 
 concurrence of their Lordships, hazardous as was the experiment. 
 At a.m. of the 17th, the wind, which had been light from the 
 N.W., gradually died away, when we were almost immediately l)eset. 
 There were several heavy floes in the vicinity ; one, full six miles in length, 
 passed at the rate of two knots, crushing everything impeding its pro- 
 
(WrTAIN l^l'CLimii's PKSPATC11ES. 
 
 19 
 
 ow, we ran into six 
 nndor the western 
 light, as tiicy were 
 close ice is (|iiitc 
 m the S.W. during 
 le N.E., no louijer 
 :hat at a little after 
 learly (letined, run- 
 h water. To turn 
 as hut the work of 
 [lelled, that we had 
 ■en fast to hefore it 
 . into five fathoms, 
 unately, from some 
 iviiich took ns into 
 rs until 1 1.1.') p.m., 
 gradually ojieniiijr 
 e navigahle season 
 emperattu'e, as well 
 the water whenever 
 , it hecame a suh- 
 t in regard to (he 
 uthward, in which 
 »in a harbour in om; 
 taring's Land, the 
 only the chance of 
 ed a failure, would 
 ;, exposing her to a 
 enormous massive 
 from which we are 
 )ntinue our advance 
 I, and then submit 
 r in the pack. I 
 ', to relinquish tlie 
 r, and anxiety, for 
 ■rs, would be inju- 
 )solute importance 
 nits while navigat- 
 le operations of a 
 Janks's Land, and 
 1 probability, have 
 )e Walker, I there- 
 for carrying into 
 missioners of the 
 lispatchiu'f; j)arties 
 ese, Sir, were the 
 e of difficulties," 
 to meet with the 
 the experiment, 
 ■n light from the 
 mmediately l)e.set. 
 six miles hi length, 
 ; impeding its j)ro- 
 
 q;ress, and grazed our starboard bow. Fortunately there was but young 
 ice upon the oj)posite side, which yielded to the pressure ; had it other- 
 wise occurred the vessel nnist inevitably have been cut asunder. In the 
 nfternoon we secured to a moderate- sized piece, drawing 8 fathoms, 
 whicii n]>peared to offer a fair refuge, and from which we never after- 
 wards parted ; it conveyed us to our furthest N.E. position, lat. '3° 7'N., 
 long. 117° lO' W., back round the Princess lloval Islands. Passed 
 the largest within .'iOO yards to lat. 7'1° 12' N.', long. 11 8" 12' \V., 
 rrtnrning along the coast of Prince Albert's Land, and finally freez- 
 ing in at lat. 72° .50' N., long. 117° 5.5' W., upon the ;30th of 
 September, during which circumnavigatiou we received many severe 
 nips, aiul were frerpiently driven close to the shore, from which our 
 deep friend kept us oil". To avoid separation, we had secured with two 
 stream cal)les (one chain) two six and two five inch hawsers. As our 
 e\[)osed ])osition rendered every precaution necessary, we got upon deck 
 twelve uionths' provisions, with tents, warm clothing, &c., and issued 
 to each jierson a ))air of carpet boots and blanket bag, so that, in the 
 event of any emergency making it imperative to quit the vessel, we 
 might not be destitiue. On the 8th of October our perplexities 
 terminated with a nip that lifted the vessel a foot, and heeled her four 
 degrees to ])<)rt, in conseipience of a large tongue getting beneath her, 
 ill which ])osition we quietly reinaineti. As, however, there was a 
 probat)ility of being thrown upon the ice, it was requisite that a smooth 
 siu'face should be made to receive the vessel, whicli was accomplished 
 with much facility, by blasting the humnioeks ahmg the edge of the 
 tloe for aliout IS!) yards, and 2U in breadth. This done, and every 
 indication of the pack lieing now thoroughly cemented with a tem})era- 
 tnre of seven minus, we comjdeted housing over, and other arrangements 
 for our winter quarters. As the weather ujion the 10th was calm and 
 fine, and the ice (piiet, at 8.130 a.m. left the ship, accompanied by 
 Lieutenant Cresswell, Ur. Armstrong, and Mr. Miertsching, with a party 
 of seamen, carrying a pole &c., to jdant upon the shores of Prince 
 Albert's Land, to which we proceeded to take possession in the name 
 of her Most Gracious Majesty. This accomplished, we walked to the 
 highest hill observalde at the distance of five miles, to an elevation of 
 l,r)U() feet, which gave an extended view in every direction. The 
 country was very hilly, with deep ravines and large lakes. This 
 appears the general character of the land on both shores. The course 
 of the water towards the N.Fi. we were anxious to trace, hoping to see 
 an opening into Barrow's Strait. In this we were disiappointed, from 
 the many low points intervening, rendering it impossible to ascertain 
 the land from the sea, both being frozen. On our return we had the 
 mortification to iiud that the land and sea ice had separated about 100 
 yards along the whole line of coast. We walked by its margin for 
 some miles, hoping to meet with a loose piece of ice to ferry us across ; 
 but night closing rapidly subjected us to so many falls, owing to the 
 inc(|ualities of our road not being distinguishable, that we were comj)elled 
 to halt, and commence firing to attract attention ; but our distance from 
 the ship was too far to render our signals of any utility. At 8.30. p.m. 
 Mr. Court, with one of the many parties that were seareliing the ice iu 
 all directions, fortunately saw our Hashing, and made for it ; but, un- 
 suspecting our dilemma was created by open water, he had no boat; 
 immediately returning he met with a party which had two of llalkclt's. 
 
 n 2 
 

 m 
 
 20 
 
 CAPTAIN M'CLURk's DESPATCIIKS. 
 
 'li 
 
 These were soon Immehetl ; only getting them through the pancake ice, 
 which was by this time an inch thick, was attended with great dilficidty. 
 The sea ice also rapidly setting to the northward, the boats after each 
 transit had to be carried south before being laiuiched, so as to insure 
 their reaching the only spot tVotn which the party to be relieved could 
 enjbark. This operation commenced at 10.30. ]).m., and by midnight 
 we were all over, and reached the ship at "l.'M) a.m., all parties meeting 
 with heavy falls, but receiving no accident of consequence. I caiuioL 
 refrain from noticing the excellence of Ilalkett's boats, or speak in too 
 high terms of the ingenuity of their inventor. These admirable little 
 articles were inflated on board, and with the greatest facility carried 
 upon a man's shoulders over ice which, from its excessive roughness, 
 no other boat could by any possibility have been got across without 
 being smashed. By their means a large ])arty were relieved, who were 
 without tents, clothing, fuel, j)rovisions, or in any way provided to 
 withstand the severities of a polar night, with the thermometer 8 degrees 
 mhms. The consequences to them might have been very serious ; as it 
 WHS, however, the annexation of Prince Albert's Land to the Britisii 
 Crown was considered to have terminated so favourably, that I directed 
 an extra supper and allowance of grog to be issued to my energetic erew 
 as n reward for their eight hours' vigorous exertions. 
 
 Being dissatisfied with the view obtained froni I'rince Albert's Laud 
 respecting the waters we were now in as to their connexion with 
 Barrow's Strait, which would settle the question of a liorth-west passage, 
 I determined to proceed in that direction with a travelling party, al- 
 though rather late in the season, as soon as I felt that the vessel might 
 be safely quitted, which I judged would occur after the ensuing spring 
 tides, if at that period there was no conmiotion among the ice. Ae('or(i- 
 ingly, upon the 21st, everything being favourable, 1 started wilh Mr. 
 Court, second master, and the following men, — Robert Calder, captain 
 of the forecastle ; Robert Tiffeney, captain of the maintop ; Michael 
 Flynn, quartermaster ; George Brown, A. H. ; Peter Thomson, captain 
 of the foretoi) ; and James Saunders, private. Royal Marines. 'I'he 
 ice, for two miles from the ship, was so rough tiiat Lieutenant Haswell 
 and the whole of the ship's company were oecuiped in carrying the 
 sledge and different articles of lading. At 8 am. the sledge was finally 
 packed, when, with the fatigue party, in charge of Mr. Wynniatt (mate), 
 accompanied by Dr. Armstrong, as an amateur, we set off towards the 
 north-east at noon ; the fatigue jjarty having taken us eight miles, were 
 directed to return. Soon after they quitted us we got p.mong very 
 difficult ice. The sledge was broken, but, (piiekly fishing it, we pro- 
 ceeded. Unfortunately, scarcely an hour had elapsed, when in crossing 
 a floe, the inequalities of which were imperceptible, it came down with 
 such a crash that it broke into pieces. This was unlucky, but, pitching 
 our tent, Mr. Court and Peter Thomson (captain of the foretop) started 
 for the ship, where they arrived at 7 .'M) p.m., and rejoined the next day 
 at 2 p.m., with a fresh and larger sledge, and a fatigue party, with Mr. 
 Wynniatt, to carry the damaged one back. (This party, upon my 
 return, I found did not get on board until the foUowhig day, being 
 stopped by a heavy snow drift, but, having a tent and provisions, did 
 not sntFer.) As .>oon as the new comers were refreshed, the sledge was 
 packed, and by ;{ p.m. we were again olf, eontimiing our course, with- 
 out any further disaiiter, until iAb p.m. of the L'tith, when we had the 
 
UmH 
 
 CAPTAIN M'CLUHli's DKSrATClIliS. 
 
 21 
 
 fj;li tlie j)ancake ico, 
 ith great difficulty. 
 le boats after each 
 K'd, so as to insure 
 ;o be relieved could 
 I., and by midnight 
 all parties meeting 
 pquence. I cauiioL 
 [its, or speak in too 
 cse admirable little 
 est facility carried 
 :cessive roughness, 
 got across without 
 relieved, who were 
 ' way provided to 
 rmometer 8 degrees 
 very serious ; as it 
 ind to the British 
 bly, that I directed 
 my energetic crew 
 
 nee Albert's Land 
 
 ir connexion with 
 
 iorth-west passage, 
 
 avelliiig party, al- 
 
 t the vessel might 
 
 :he ensuing spring 
 
 jj the ice. Aecord- 
 
 l started with I\lr. 
 
 rt Calder, captain 
 
 maintop ; Michael 
 
 Thomson, captain 
 
 al ^Marines. 'J'hc 
 
 lieutenant llaswell 
 
 d in carrying the 
 
 sledge was Hnally 
 
 Wynniatt (mate), 
 
 >t off towards the 
 
 eight miles, were 
 
 got p.moug very 
 
 shing it, we pro- 
 
 wlien in crossinji 
 
 came down with 
 
 eky, but, pitching 
 
 le foretop) started 
 
 ined the next day 
 
 c party, with Mr. 
 
 party, upon my 
 
 )wing day, being 
 
 d provisions, did 
 
 'd, the sledge was 
 
 our course, with- 
 
 wheii we had the 
 
 extreme gratification of pitching our tent uj)on the shores of Barrow's 
 Strait, in lat. 73° 31' N., long. 11-1° 39' W. (chronometer), (long. 
 111° 11' W. lunar), nearly on the line, as represented on the charts, 
 where Sir Edward Parry has very correctly marked the loom of the 
 land. Uj)on the following morning, before sunrise, Mr. Court and 
 myself ascended a small hill, about 000 feet in height, so that we could 
 command an extensive view of 40 or 50 miles. The extreme point of 
 Prince Albert's Land bore long. 78° E. true, about 35 miles, the 
 furthest land N.N.E., 8 miles. The Melville Island shore could not 
 be discovered, but in that direction the ice ap[)cared to be very heavy, 
 and the floes exceedingly large. While we were making these observa- 
 tions the crew were busily engaged erecting a cairn about 15 feet above 
 the water (which had been named Prince of Wales's Strait, in honour of 
 his Royal Highness), in which a copper cylinder was deposited. The 
 spot is so conspictious that any person passing along the shore must 
 remark it. All being comjdeted by 10 a.m. of the 27th, we turned for 
 the ship, arriving upon the morning of the 31st, having in nine days 
 made in a direct line 156 miles by observation, with a temperature of 
 hetween+7 and— 15 degrees. Upon the afternoon of the 30th the 
 weather, which had been overcast, suddenly brightened, showing the 
 Princess Royal Islands, distant about 12 miles. At 3 p.m. I left the 
 sledge, with the intention of getting early on board, to have everything 
 in readiness for the comfort of the party, anticipating their arrival at 
 9 p.m. Unfortunately, the weather became again foggy about 5 p.m., fol- 
 lowed soon by darkness ; consequently my way was speedily lost, com- 
 pelling me to wander about the floe during the night, with a temperature 
 of from 5 to 15 degrees minus, when at 7 the next morning I had the 
 mortification to find that I had passed the vessel 4 miles, which I 
 reached by 8.30 a.m., and immediately dispatched a party to assist 
 IMr. Court, who was at 5 miles distance, having most judiciously en- 
 oam))ed about 7 miles from the ship when the fog became too dense to 
 travel. 
 
 I was agreeably surprised to learn from Lieutenant llaswell that on 
 the 2!)th a party, consisting of Messrs. Sainsbury, Paine, Miertsching, 
 and Newton, while sporting upon Prince All)crt's Land, had encountered 
 a herd of musk cattle, two bulls, a cow, a heifer, and a calf, and most 
 adroitly shot the whole, which yielded l,29(jlbs. of excellent nutritious 
 meat. A supply thus opportune and unexpected may be regarded as a 
 most favourable termination to our season's operations, in which we 
 have been nearly enabled to carry out verbatim their Lordships' in- 
 structions, in reaching the ice by the 1st of August, and establishing a 
 jjosition near Banks's Land, which service has been performed under 
 circumstances over which we could exercise but little control, our only 
 credit consisting in seizing the advantages th.it an Invisible Power scat- 
 tered along our road through fields of ice, where all human exertion 
 would have been as unavailing as the feebleness of a child to advance 
 us one yard. 
 
 The winter — that dreary period of the voyage which I had looked 
 forward to \\ith much apprehension, — passed mildly away, there being 
 very little snow or wind, without oiu' sanitary state being in the slight* st 
 degree impaired ; for which happiness I assign these reasons — viz., 
 
 J . The unflagging spirits and cheerfulness of the men. 
 
 2. The excellence of every species of provisions. 
 
Y 
 
 \- -J ■ ^ 
 
 
 22 
 
 CAI'TAIN M'cI.UUK's DKS1>AT( HKS. 
 
 w 
 
 ■\ 
 
 V 
 
 5 
 
 
 i ■ 
 
 ',i. Tlu' free ventilation of the lower deek. 
 
 4. The extreme attention of Dr. Arnistrong (npon onr monthly 
 inspections) to the state of the crew. 
 
 So that the montli of March found us in a most healthy and efticietit 
 condition. Accordingily, npon the .'ird we commenced onr preliminary 
 duties hy taking a .SO-foot whale-hoat to the larger Princess Hoyal 
 Islands, where it is my intention to leave three months' provisions for 
 all hands, that, at the hreaking up of the ice, should the vessel unfor- 
 tunately get crushed, we may have a certainty to fall hack iipon, which 
 will enahle us to reach the Plover, without liazard of starvation. This 
 duty heing completed, as well as the transportiii<>; of another whale- 
 hoat, hcsides one of Ilalkett's, to the eastern shore, distant ;") miles, 
 for the facility of allowinj; the travelling parties going along that coast 
 to reach the islands, should the ice hreak up and carry tiie vessel away 
 pnring their absence, arrangements were then made for the scarcli- 
 ing jiarties ; and the weather becoming ver^ 'vonrahle for travelling, 
 npon the 18th of A))ril three were dispatched under Lieutenant lias- 
 well, S.E. shore; Lieutenant Cresswcll, N.W. shore; ami Mr. Wymu- 
 ntt (mate), N.K. shore, with six weeks' ])rovisions each. 
 
 At 1 a.m. May 0, Mr. Wymiiatt (mate) having broken his chrono- 
 meter at the distance of 120 miles from the ship returned ; but all being 
 in good condition, they were completed to .'}() days' provisions, and at 
 (i ]).m were again cu route. At the same time, two himtintr parties 
 with tents, &c., left the ship — one for each side of the Strait, as some 
 deer had l)een seen, besides some ptarmigan and four hares shot. This 
 early indication of fresh j)rovisions is a snljjcct of deep congratulation, 
 independent of the very healthy and exciting occupation for the crew, 
 who are all eager for the s])ort. 
 
 ALiy L'O. — Lieutenant (^resswell returned in consequence of the 
 severe frost-'oites of two of his men, having reached lat. 7 A° l(i' X., 
 long. 117° 40' W., being absent ;j| days; din'ing the greater part of 
 the time he was snl)ject to strong N.W. winds, sweeping from the Polar 
 JSea, through Harrow's Strait, which, nu'ctirg him in the face, rendered 
 it exceedingly ditHcnlt to walk against, the thorniometcr being frecpiently 
 {•>° below zero. He, however, traced the coast-line, which, for about 
 70 miles along 15anks's Lainl, was very precipitous, averauing from 
 1,000 to 1,400 feet, from which it gradually slojjcd to a [joint trending 
 to S.W., apparently the extreme of the land in that (lireetion, as it 
 abruptly turned to southwards. An elevation of a thousand feet, aided 
 hy an exceedingly clear atmosphere, left no doubt in his mind tliat the 
 Polar Sea was ".tefore him, and that Banks's Land is a part of taring's 
 Island. He was anxious to make a further advance, and encamp during 
 two days, with the hope that the invalids wonld recover, but, finding 
 them getting much worse, he very properly deemed it advisable to 
 return with all haste to the ship. Before reaching her, however, both 
 had to be borne upon the sledge, which threw the work u|)on four 
 men ; when, getting into heavy snow, the otticar had to fall in at the 
 drag-ropes ; nevertheless, the working-})arty arrived in most excellent 
 health and spirits. 
 
 On the '21st a large bear was killed. Ipon examination of the 
 stomach an extraordinary medley was discovered, consisting of raisins, 
 tobacco, pork, and adhesive i)laister, so that I came to the conclusion 
 that the Enterprise nuist be near, the animal not having been seen 
 
 81 
 
 d 
 A 
 
 C( 
 
 3 
 
llMAMiMilil 
 
 ^ 
 
 CAPTAIN M'CLUHk's DESPATCHES. 
 
 23 
 
 upon our inoiitlily 
 
 [■akhy and efficient 
 ed our preliminnrv 
 :er Priiieess Roynl 
 tlis' provisions for 
 1 tlie vessel nnCor- 
 I l)nck upon, wliieli 
 f starvation. Tliis 
 of another whale- 
 , distant ;") miles, 
 iC alonj; that coast 
 •ry tiie vessel away 
 e for the search- 
 [ihle for travellinu;, 
 !• Lieutenant llas- 
 ; and Mr. Wynni- 
 ■h. 
 
 roken his chrono- 
 ned ; hut all heinjr 
 {)rovisions, and at 
 
 hnnfinir ftarties 
 le Strait, as some 
 hares shot. This 
 c'p congratulation, 
 ition lor the ciew, 
 
 ise(pu'nce of the 
 <1 lat. 74° l(i' N., 
 le f^reater part of 
 nu,' from the I'olar 
 the face, rendered 
 r heing freipiently 
 
 which, for aliout 
 1, averaging from 
 
 a [)oint trending 
 It direction, as it 
 lusand feet, aided 
 his nnnd tiiat the 
 
 {)ait of JJaring's 
 id encamp tluring 
 over, hut, finding 
 
 1 it anvisahle to 
 er, however, hoth 
 
 work upon four 
 to fall in at the 
 n most excellent 
 
 nnnation of the 
 isting of raisins, 
 to the conclusion 
 aving Ijcen seen 
 
 before near our dirt-heap, nor were there any traces of him about the 
 ship. 1 therefore determined to send a i»arty to the S.W., the only 
 direction we had no travellers, to satisfy myself upon the subject. 
 Accordingly, at 6 p.m. on the 2'Jnd, Lieutenant Cresswell and his party, 
 completed with two fresh hands, were again dispatched with provisions 
 until June 10. 
 
 Upon the 2'lth the above mystery was satisfactorily solved. Some 
 men, in pursuit of a bear about half a mile from the ship, picked up a 
 preserved meat-tin, with articles in it identical with those found in the 
 stomach of the bear killed on the 21st; the foot-prints of the animal 
 were likewise abundant on the snow. 'I'his evidence was perfectly 
 conclusive as to the locality where bruin had obtained his dainties. 
 This being the anniversary of the birthday of Her JNIost Gracious 
 Majesty, a Royal salute was fired, and tlie colours displayed, in 
 celel)ration of the event. 
 
 2yth.— Lieutenant llaswell and party returned, all in the most 
 ]»erfect health, having traced the coast towards Wollfiston Land, to lat. 
 70" 38' N., long., 115° \V., from which point, the day l>eing remark- 
 nbly clear, he observed the outline of land to the distance of full 40 
 miles trending to the S.W., but having advanced 2.5 days, he considered 
 it prudent to proceed no further. Two large inlets and a deep bay 
 were examined, besides an archi|)elago of small islands ah)ng the northern- 
 most shore of the southernmost inlet, which is high, bold, and stratified, 
 each inlet trending to the E.N.E. from 80 to 1)0 miles. The whole 
 coast was strewn with driftwood, and many vestiges of Esquimaux 
 encampments were met with, but of a very old date. Upon returning 
 he was most surprised to find a party, consisting of 18 natives, 
 encamped upon the ice, a few miles from the N.W. point of the 
 northernmost inlet, in quest of seals. They were very friendly and 
 well-disposed, but, not understanding each other, no information 
 could be obtained. They exchanged a few presents, and upon that 
 day week he arrived on board, having remained out his 42 days, 
 thereby fulfilling his instructions to the letter. In consequence of the 
 above, I immediately decided upon proceeding to these people, for the 
 purpose of ol)taining information that might determine the question 
 relating to the I'rince Albert's, WoUaston, and Victoria Lands, as to 
 their forming part of the American continent, or whether each was an 
 island ; therefore, taking Mr. Miertsching (our invaluable interpreter), 
 and 12 days' provisions, at 6 p.m. we started, and early on June 3rd 
 fell in with them, about 10 miles to the northward of the point where 
 they were first met with. They conversed freely with the interpreter, 
 giving every information we rejjuired relative to the trending of the 
 coast as far as they knew, which was some distance along Victoria 
 Land ; this they did by tracing upon a large sheet of paper, which I 
 brought for that purpose, continuing a sketch which Mr. Miertsching 
 had made from the ship to their ',ents, which they immediately compre- 
 hended, and, as they were very particular in placing the islands of 
 Sutton and Liston, with three smaller ones not mentioned in the 
 chart, off Wollaston Land, I am fully persuaded of its correctness, and 
 oidy regretted that they could not go further (a tracing of which accom- 
 panies this narrative). They descril)e a large land opposite Wolkstoa, 
 called " Nunavaksaraluk ;" this, of course, is America, to which they 
 had never been, as they only trade with the Esquimaux to the S.E., 
 
 a 
 
n 
 
 •21 
 
 CArTAlN m'CLUUK's DESl'AK Ill'.S. 
 
 
 u 
 
 
 ' ?^ 
 
 -i 
 
 i 
 
 il :j 
 
 
 ;j [ 
 
 nor lind tlioy tlic sli^ihtcst nrtitle of Euro])can iiiniiiiriiotiiro about tlioiii ; 
 the use nnd sight of irou was perfectly now, all their iMij)U'ineiits heiiiu; 
 eopper— their spears and arrows harhed with the same. The ropjicr 
 ore is reniiirknhly fine (hut, not observing any Avhen at the tents, the 
 specimen being given nie by one of our men some time after (piittiug 
 them), unfortunately, we lost the opjjortunity of in(piiring where it 
 was procured ; but 1 am inclined to think that it comes from the south- 
 east tribes, iu their bartering transactions, as the few ami simple orna- 
 nu'Uts which they possessed were of that metal, and ohtaiiu'd thence. 
 These :irc a kind, simjde, nnd purely pastoral tril)e, devoid of the 
 knavish ])ropensities which so strongly charncterisc those upon the 
 Mackenzie and Colville, where intercourse with civilized man Iims 
 denu)ralizcd the savage. Upon dis})laying the presents brought for 
 them, the utmost propriety was ol>servc(l ; although, dottbtless, all were 
 anxious to ])articipate in tbese treasures, there was not that eagerness to 
 seize, which rendered our interchange with the other Kscpiininux so 
 troiddesomc ; so far was it from these to do so, tliat it was with diili- 
 cidty we could persuade them to accept them without our receiving an 
 e(puvalent, they iiupuring of the interpreter, af'ter each article was given 
 tliem, what we wanted for it. A piece of scarlet cloth, vtluch I tied 
 round a girl's neck, remained there until we were going away, wiien she 
 ran up to Mr. Miertsching to ask what she was to give in exchange, 
 nnd, when assured it was a gilt from the chief, she gracefully acknow- 
 ledged it with a smile. No weajjons were observed atiioug them, except 
 for the chase ; their whole denu'anour bespoke peace. They live near 
 their ])resent locality the whole year, not going any fuitiier to the 
 Horthward, nor do they believe that there are any others in that diree- 
 lion ; but to the S.E., along Victoria and M'ollnston Land, the coast is 
 thickly populated. It apj)ears very extraordinary that they do 
 not even possess traditionary legends of their ancestors having 
 been north, where the numerous traces whieii we meet with n])on botli 
 sides of the Straits, as well as on the liirtre rrineess lioval Island, show 
 that at one period the whole of this coast must have been densely 
 pojudatCL Their language, Mr. Miertsching observes, is identical 
 with that spv ken uj)on the Labrador coast. At half-past !) o'clock we 
 left this interesting people on our return to the ship, which we reached 
 at 7 p.m. of the r)th, exceedingly gratified !)y the result of our pleasant 
 excursion, our only misfortune being Cornelius Ilullott, my coxswain, 
 having both feet badly frost-nIp|)ed. At Tj a.m. of the 7th. Mr. 
 AVvnniatt (mate) returned with his i)artv, haviuij been fiftv (havs under 
 the tent. From his exploration of a portion of the south-eastern shores 
 of Barrow's Strait, as far as lat. 72" (i' N., long. ID/" 4'J' W. (DM ), 
 whence the land was observed for about IT) miles, trending to theN.E., 
 after rounding Point Peel, lat. 73" 21' N., long 1 12" 30' W., the nortli- 
 west point of Prince Albert's Land, he reports it to be in all respects, 
 as to formation, the same as in this vicinity, for the distance of ai)out 
 '10 miles, when, u])on crossing a deep inlet, the land assumed a nortb- 
 west aspect, and became high, precipitous, and l)arren. No drift-wood 
 of any description was met with, but the ice lay against its base in 
 lieavy and unbroken niasses. Further to the eastward a lesser one was 
 circumambulated, liaving in it several small islands, with its southern 
 shore formed of str.itified cliff, having an elevation of about SOO feet. 
 Upon the 10th, at 7.1.') a.m., Lieutenant Cresswell and parly, having 
 
CAi'iAiN M'cLfiiic's Dfc;HrAr<'iii;s. 
 
 or, 
 
 'iicture !il)out tlioui ; 
 ir iiiipk'inciits Ijcini; 
 5niiic. Tlie oopjicr 
 11 at the tents, the 
 time nl'ter (|uittiii!j; 
 iiKliiiriiii; where it 
 lies tVoiu the soutli- 
 w niid siin|)U' onin- 
 1(1 ol)taiiie(l tliciice. 
 il)e, devoid of the 
 sc tliose (ipoii the 
 eivilized man hsis 
 •esents broiiirht for 
 , do\d)tless, all were 
 ot tliat eajii'iiu'ss to 
 [her Esqiiiinaiix so 
 it it was with diili- 
 )\it our reeeiviii!^ an 
 eh nrtiele was i;iven 
 cloth, v'.iich I tied 
 ilia; nway, when she 
 <;ive in exehaiipe, 
 gracefully acknow- 
 inionp: them, except 
 ee. They live near 
 any fnitiier to the 
 thcrs in that diree- 
 1 Land, llie coast is 
 ry that they do 
 ancestors liaviiii>; 
 "t with n])on both 
 oyal Island, show 
 lave been densely 
 serves, is ideiitierd 
 past !) o'clock wo 
 which we reached 
 It of our pleasant 
 (itt, my coxswain, 
 of the 7tli. Mr. 
 n fifty days under 
 nth-eastern shores 
 7"4'2'\\. (DM), 
 ndiiig to tlie X.H., 
 30' W., the iiorth- 
 e in all respects, 
 distance of about 
 [issumed a north- 
 No drift-wood 
 rainst its base in 
 d a lesser one was 
 rtith its southern 
 f about SOO feet, 
 uid party, haviin; 
 
 completed their l!) days, returned from their search towards tlie S.W., 
 to lat. 71" 10' N., lon;^. r2;i"4' W., making, in the aggregate, ;")()" under 
 the tent, during vvhicli he had coasted three sides of IJaring's Island, 
 from the north shore of which he looked ujion the Polar Sea, and upon 
 the south walked 24 miles on it ; both jnesenting the same smooth 
 surface, which I consider to be attributable to the long jirevalence of 
 north-easterly winds, at the termination of the navigable season setting 
 the heavy ice, which we encountered, and saw resting upon the western 
 side of the island, over to the American and Asiatic shores, which may 
 cause the great difficulty in rounding Point liarrow late in the season. 
 TJnfortnnately the weather became overcast, which limited his view to 
 the northward, only allowing him to observe that the coast was liigh 
 and bold. Ujion this excursion he met with four partitions of the ice, 
 varying in breadth from 10 to 20 feet, ap)iarently running across the 
 strait ; but, being provided with one of Ilalkett's valuable little boats, 
 this obstacle, which would otherwise have caused a detour of many 
 miles, was easily overcome. It is imj)ossible to recommend these boats 
 too highly upon a service of this description, where every article of 
 weight is objectionable. Their whole fitting is but 2."dbs. AVlien not 
 recpiired they form n ])latforin on the sledge to stow the baggage, and 
 when in use they are carried infiated upon the top. Thus, on two 
 occasions, they liavo been of essential service, without the smallest 
 inconvenience. Lieutenant Cresswell erected a cairn, and deposited a 
 cylinder within it, Tipon a low beach near Cape Lambton ; he also 
 remarked the vestiges of Escpiimaux cncam])inents upon almost every 
 jiart of the coast upon whic' he pitched his tent for the night, many of 
 them thickly strewn with the heads of musk oxen, which denotes no 
 paucity of those animals upon these lands: indeed, at the jiresent 
 lime both shores of the strait are covered with wild fowl of every 
 descrijition, musk oxen, deer, hares, ptarmigan, and golden plover. 
 This is certainly the most fertile part of the Polar regions, and must 
 be the breeding-place of those animals, which find rich pasturage 
 among its alluvial plains and valleys, unmolested by the Esquimaux, 
 the traces of whose remains, being overgrown with moss, and rotten, 
 have reference to a time long anterior. This party, with much spirit 
 and zeal, performed their return journey of upwards of IGO miles in 
 nine days and a-lialf, under circmnstances reflecting much credit upon 
 them, the lateness of the season being luifavourable to so rapid an 
 advance. All being now on board and in excellent health, with the 
 exception of three of the travellers suffering from frost-nips, our 
 season's travelling operations may be considered to have terminated 
 fortunately ; and, from the close examination which has been made 
 over a vast extent of coast, the direct distance of which, by observa- 
 tion, embraces 800 miles, to which a third may be added for the 
 devious windings of the coast-line, without observing the slightest 
 vestiges of .any spar, or other indication of civilized man h.aving 
 reached these shores, I am fully confident that the missing expedi- 
 tion under Sir John Franklin, lias never penetrated towards the Polar 
 Sea in this direction, as some portion of the immense mass of stores, 
 spars, or fitments, with which those ships were provided must have 
 been jiieked up, when driftwood oi very inconsiderable dimensions 
 <lid not escape observtition. (A chart, showing the extent of discovery 
 and course of each searching- jiarty, accompanies this letter.) 
 
a«) 
 
 CAl'iAIN M'cI.IUk's DKSl'ATCllliS, 
 
 W^ 
 
 
 lii 
 
 I am also of oj)iuinn that Priiico Albert's Lntid is part of the con- 
 tinent of America, and that Point Peel is its north-west extremity, and 
 that the land thence is contiiuions to ('ape Walker ; the pecnliar 
 formation of its shores, from the very deep iidets which run into 
 the interior, give the a|)penrance of straits which in reality do not 
 exist, as was apparently the case between Victoria and Wollaston 
 Lands, and which is very probably the same between Cape Walker 
 and North Somerset, ^iy opinion is strengthened by the Kscpiimanx 
 upon this coast speaking the same langnage as those of Hndson's 
 Straits, which Mr. Miertsching, the interpreter, thoronghly nnder- 
 stands, and conversed flnently with them, while with those of the 
 C'olville, and Cape Bathnrst he fonnd it sometimes dilficalt to do so. 
 (Jonsecpiently, I think it very probable that the forefathers of these 
 have crossed from Hudson's Straits, and kept the coast line of Vic- 
 toria and WoUaston Land, and luive thus retained tiie purity of 
 their langnage, which those upon the north coast of America have 
 lost, by constant intercourse with the Indians. I icrtainly should have 
 considered it my duty to endeavour to ilecide this j)()int by detaching n 
 boat through the Dolphin and Union Straits, but I feel assmed that 
 that service was accomplished by Dr. line last year, as he evidently 
 was not in this direction. 
 
 During the absence of the searching parties the refitting of tlie 
 ship was carried on, under the direction of Messrs. Sainsbnry (mate) 
 and ('ourt (second master) ; so that upon their return little remained 
 but to get the boats from the eastern shore, and the tents ami ap- 
 jmrtenances, which the shooting j)arties had upon each side of the strait, 
 on board, the weather being unfavourable, and the state of the ice 
 becoming too precarious to allow of any persons being so far distant 
 from the ship. This being effected, as also the repairing and painting 
 of a boat which is to be left with the provisions at the large I'rincess 
 Royal Island completed upon the I.'kli, we had the satisfaction of 
 having every one on board, with the vessel thoroughly refitted, caulked, 
 l)aiuted, and watered, and in every respect as efficient for the service we 
 have to perform as the day that we quitted Plymouth, with a trifling 
 sick-list, principally from the elfects of frost- nips and foot-soreness 
 from the travelling. We now wait, with no little anxiety, the disruption 
 of these mighty masses of ice by which we are encircled, and the con- 
 sequences depending upon that event, which cannot be contemjdated 
 without deep apprehension. 
 
 The first indication of open water occurred to-day (July 7th), extending 
 some distance along the shore of Prince Albert's Laud, about a mile in 
 width. The ice in every direction is so rapidly decaying, being much 
 accelerated by sleet and rain, with a thermometer standing at 4;)°, 
 that by the 14th that which for the last few days had been slightly in 
 motion, with large spaces of water intervening, suddenly and noiselessly 
 opened around the vessel, leaving her in a pond of 40 yards ; but, seeing 
 no i)osisii)ility of getting without its limits, we were compelled to secure 
 to the floe which had for 10 months befriended us, and, with the whole 
 of tiie pack, gradually drifted to the southward, towards the Princess 
 IJoyal Islands, which we passed on the eastern side within half a mile. 
 Cpon the 1 7th, at 10 a.m., being among loose ice, we cast off from the 
 Hue and made sail, with the hoj)e of getting upon the western shore, 
 where the water ajjpeared to be making, but without shippiuy the rudder, 
 
 ■^ 
 
 I t 
 
1 
 
 C'.Vl'l'AlN M'Cl.UUl'.'s hr.sl'AlcilKS. 
 
 '27 
 
 pnrt of till' con- 
 ft I'xtrcriiity, imd 
 r ; the peculiar 
 wlilch run into 
 n renlity do not 
 luul XVollaston 
 n Cnpe Walker 
 y tlic l']s(|uiinaiix 
 )se of Hudson's 
 oront!;hly under- 
 :li those of the 
 ifficult to do so. 
 ff'athcrs of these 
 )!»st line of Vie- 
 d the purify of 
 f America have 
 linly should have 
 t hv detachiui' a 
 feel assured that 
 as he evidently 
 
 refitting of the 
 lainshury (mate) 
 1 little remained 
 le tents and ap- 
 side of the strait, 
 stale of the ice 
 t; so far distant 
 iug and painting 
 le large Princess 
 ' satisfaction of 
 efitted, caulked, 
 >r the service we 
 with a trifhng 
 lid foot-soreness 
 k the disruption 
 (1, and the cou- 
 pe conteiii})lated 
 
 7th), extending 
 
 aliout a mile in 
 
 |ng, heing much 
 
 tanding at 4a°, 
 Iheen slightly in 
 and noiselessly 
 
 hds ; but, seeing 
 
 jpelled to secure 
 with the whole 
 Is the Princess 
 
 liiu half a mile. 
 ist off from the 
 western shore, 
 \uv^ the rudder, 
 
 
 in e )nse(pieuce of heing in the vicinity of several large Hoi-s, and at 2 p.m. 
 again secured to a tloe between the Princess Royal and Baring's Islands 
 (we passed over a shoal having 1 i) fathoms). On the 20th, at 1 1 .'M) a.m., 
 a light air sprang up from the S.V»'., which, slacking the ice, gave 
 hopes of making progress to the N.E., in which dire(!tiou I was auxiims 
 to get for the purpose of entering Barrow's Stndt, that, according to 
 eircumstaiiees, 1 might be enabled to carry out my original intentions of 
 ])roceediug to the northward of Melvdle Island, as detailed in my letter 
 to the Secretary of the Admiralty of July 20, 1H.)0, or, should such not 
 he jnactieahle, return to England through the strait. The ship was cast 
 off, and a mile gained, when the wind died away, and we were again 
 beset. On the morning of the 22nd, open water appearing in the IS'.K., 
 the rudder was shipped in expectation of a start, which was not, how- 
 ever, realised until the afternoon of the 2'M'd, when a light S.W. wind 
 set the ice to the N.E., carrying us over a shoal upon which there was 
 much ice grounded in 1,'} fathoms; the corner of the floe to wliich we 
 were attached coming in contact with some of these masses, gave way, 
 throwing jiieees of 12 feet and Id feet scpiarc completely out of the water. 
 It grazed the hard bottom with a sound not unlike distant thunder, as 
 it crashed, crumbled, and upheaved, throwing an enormous mound up in 
 its centre, as if under the influence of volcanic agency, and then rent 
 asunder, the part we were secured to remaining firmly grounded, while 
 the other and lighter jiortion, l)eiiig forced onwards with accelerated 
 speed, came direct for our unprotected stern. To let go warps and 
 nnehors was but the work of a minute, and most fortunate were we in 
 accomplishing it, as, ere they could be g.;t on board, it struck the stern, 
 forcing the ship ahead at tlie rate of 2 knots. A small sjiace of open 
 water, occasioned by the grounding of the floe, allowed of our advance ; 
 when, by warping and towing, we speedily got beyond its influence. 
 Had our position been I'jss favourable, nothing could have saved the 
 vessel from momentary destruction, and at 11.30 p.m., with a breeze 
 from the S.E., we made sail tlirough laige leads of water towards the 
 eastern side of the strait, and by tlie afternoon of the 24th had nearly 
 reached Poii\t Armstrong, upon which the ice was resting, where our 
 course was cheeked. Tliere was much driftwood on the beach of large 
 diniensious, mostly American pine. The cutter was consequently dis- 
 patched for a load, and some of the pieces appeared so fresh, that Mr. 
 Pord, the carpenter, was of opinion that two years was the extreme of 
 their quitting the forest. The wind veering to the westward during the 
 night, set large bodies of ice into the water we occupied, which was 
 rapidly filling. To prevent being forced on shore, we were obliged at 
 8 a.m. of the 25th to run into the pack, where we drifted, according to 
 the tide, about a mile and a half from the beach ; but during the 24 
 hours made about two miles and a half to the W.E., from which I am 
 of opinion, when taken with the quantity of driftwood that is thickly 
 strewn along the beach, that on this side of the strait there is a slight 
 current to the north-east, while upon the opposite one it sets to the 
 southward, ufion which there is scarcely any wood, and cur progress, 
 while similarly situated, was in a southern direction. We continued 
 drifting in the pack, without meeting any obstruction, until 10 a.m. of 
 the 1st of August, when a sudden and most unexpected motion of the 
 ice swept us with much velocity to the north-east, towards a low point 
 off which were several shoals awash, having many heavy pieces of 
 
28 
 
 CAl'TAiN m'i i.riiK's i)i;si'Arciii;rt. 
 
 |!i H 
 
 R 
 
 i^H 
 
 r: 
 
 h 
 
 ii 
 
 groiindi'd ice upon them, towards which wc were directly soltiiij;, do- 
 crt'iisinp; the souudiups from -l to !)J f'afhoins. Destruction wns, 
 nppnrciitly, not fur distnut, when, most opportimely, tlie ice ceased n 
 httle, and, a fresh wind coniiiip; from tin' laiul, sail was imnn'(Uateiy 
 made, wliieli, assisted hy warps, enal)Ied tlie pliip to l)e forced aliead 
 nhont 200 yards, which shot ns clear of ice and point into l<!,^ fallioms, 
 in which water we ronnded the shonls ; the ice then ap;ain closed, and 
 the ship Itecame fixed until the Mth, when the fog, which since the 
 previous day had hcen very dense, cleared, and discovered open water 
 ahout half-n-niilc from the vessel, witli the ice loose alicut her ; at noon 
 commenced warping, nnd at '.i p.m. jiassed into it with a light l)reeze 
 from the north-east that carried tis some distance along ilr.' eastern shore. 
 At 1 1 p ni. the fog was so thick that we were compelled to make fast to 
 a tloe, having, wh'Ie standing in shore, stirred up the mud while in stays, 
 shooting from no soundings at 2i^> fathoms to a (piarter less '.i, which 
 convinced me of the impracticability of remaining under way, as, had wc 
 heen set on the beach, the ice, which (;ame in before a freshening north- 
 easter out of Harrow's Strait, would most effectually have detained ns 
 tliere. I'revionsly to quitting the floe 1 was desirous of trying what 
 etVect blasting would have npofi such a n:i » •. A jar, containing 'M) lbs. 
 of powder, was letdown 12 feet into the water near the centre; the 
 average thickness was 1 1 feet, and its diameter JOO yards. The result 
 was most satisfactory, rending it in every direction, so that with the 
 greatest ease we could eifect a passage through any ])art of it. August 1 .'"., 
 at S a.m., the ibg cleared a little, wliieh showed the base of the eliil's 
 very close, altlumgh wc were in 42 fathoms. Having water to the 
 westward, we instantly nuule sail in that ipuu'ter, and at 11 a.m., being 
 nnal)le to see in any direction, again made fast, having carried awny the 
 spankerboom in breaking through a neck of ice, whieli forced the vessel 
 iVom the wind, causing it to jibe. Our soundings increased to ()2 fathoms, 
 and the ice was ascertained to be setting bodily a mile and a half an hour 
 to the west- south-west, so that, uj)ou the weather clearing, at lU) minutes 
 a.m. of the IGth we found the vessel had been drifted 1.') miles to the 
 south-west. As there was, however, water to the eastward, every exer- 
 tion was made to reach it hy warping, and at .'? a.m. succeeded, working 
 along the eastern shore to ascertain what probability existed of being 
 able to round the pack, and thus get into Jiarrow's Strait, from whicli 
 we were not distant more than 2;") miles. At 9 a.m. all hoj)es disap- 
 ])eared, as a clear view from tlie crow's-nest discovered the ice to be 
 closely ])acked, resting upon Point Lady Rose, extending in one unhrnken 
 line to the opposite side of the strait. This determined me to give uj» 
 all idea of prosecuting our search in this direction. Having heen foiled 
 in attempting this passage the latter end of one season nnd at the com- 
 mencement of another, I considered it not practicable, except under the 
 favourable circumstance of a continuance of south-westerly winds, wliich 
 would drive the ice into Barrow's Strait ; but I imagine there would be 
 little diificulty in coming from the north-east, from which quarter we 
 found the winds prevail. Our greatest advance in that direction was 
 lat. 73° 13' 43" N., long. 115° 32' 30" \V. Accordingly, at 9.30 a.m. 
 we bore np with the intention of running to the southward of Nelson's 
 Head, and continuing our search along the western side of Baring's 
 Island, with the hope of reaching the entrance of Barrow's Strait by that 
 route ; as, from the report of Lieutenant Cresswell, I felt convinced that 
 
 3 
 
 'S 
 
 t'i 
 
•cctly spiting, do- 
 Dost nictioii WflS, 
 (111! ice ci'iispd a 
 wns iiniiiciliatc'ly 
 lie foiTi'd aiii'iid 
 iiti) ll>i fiitliomH, 
 np;uii) closed, and 
 wliicli Ninco tliu 
 »ered <»|)en water 
 cut her ; at noon 
 li A lijjlit Ijreeze 
 ill'.' eastern shore. 
 (1 to make last to 
 ind while in ntays, 
 ter U'ss '.i, wliich 
 r way, as, liad w(> 
 Iresheninj; north- 
 have di'tained ns 
 i of tryinjc what 
 'ontaininu; ,S(i Ihs. 
 • the centre ; tlie 
 u'ds. Tiie res nit 
 so tiint with the 
 )t' it. Antjnst I.''., 
 I)ase of the cliOs 
 in<; water to the 
 at 1 1 a. 111., heinuj 
 carried away the 
 ibreed the vessel 
 ed to ()'J t'athouis, 
 lid a half an hour 
 ng, at M) iiiiniites 
 il If) miles to the 
 ward, every exer- 
 leceeded, working 
 existed of heiiig 
 rait, from whicli 
 all hopes disap- 
 ed the ice to be 
 i; in one unbroken 
 d me to give uji 
 aving been foiled 
 and at the com- 
 except under the 
 :;rly winds, which 
 c there would be 
 vhich quarter we 
 lat direction was 
 jly, at 9.30 a.m. 
 ward of Nelson's 
 side of 13ariug's 
 iv's Strait by that 
 It convinced that 
 
 CAl'TAIN M'i;i,I'IU:'b DKSPATt lltCH. 
 
 •20 
 
 I 
 
 ■4 
 
 1 
 
 by Hanks's Land there was a passage from the Polar Sea. .At I p.m. 
 paMsed the I'rincess Hoyal Islands with a fine breeze ; not a partiili' of 
 ice to bo seen in any direction, which only a month previously hiid 
 presented enormous Hoes, and heavy grounded masses lying against their 
 base and upon the shoal connecting tlu'in, which we considereil had been 
 there for years, and likely to remain for many more ; even the huge 
 jtieces which had l)een thrown \ipon the eastern shore had vanished ; so 
 that every vestige of that formidable element had passed away which for 
 nearly I I months had held us in its trammels. 
 
 Upon the l"th, while near Nelson's Head, with a fine breeze from the 
 south-east, we ex[)erienced a heavy swell from that direction, causing the 
 vessel to pitch the hawse-holes under and send the sea as far aft as the 
 fore-hatchway. A circmnstauce so unusual was hailed as a favourahh! 
 omen, being a convineing proof that we were in much open water ; and 
 at IL.'iOp.m. wo rounded the head. The land for about '2't mdesto the 
 ««'stward is remarkably bold and lofty, where Cape Lamliton, jetting out 
 and rising perpendicularly 1,01)0 feet, presents a grand termimitioii to it 
 in that direction ; whence it gradually recedes to the north-west, where 
 it loses this bold character, partaking more of that remarked in the 
 Trince of Wales's Strait, being rauge« of hills, gradually sloping from 
 the interior to the shore, having fine valleys and extensive plains, several 
 small, and one considerable river, the water from the latter discolouring the 
 sea two miles from its mouth ; likewise many small lakes and harbours, 
 which, however, woidd be only of utility for boats, as a heavy surf was 
 breaking across their entrances. Much driftwood strewed the beach, 
 and the laud was well covered with verdure, ujiou which were large Hocks 
 of geese feeding, while ducks were flying iu great numbers, and 1 have 
 little doubt that a walk a short distance inland would have discovered 
 henls of deer and musk oxen. Nothing that was on the coast could 
 escape observation, nor could anything be more favourable for the object 
 we had in view, as, with a fair wind and fine clear weather, we ran along 
 it from one to two miles distant. 
 
 At 4 p.m. of the ISth, being off a very low spit of sand (Point 
 Kellelt), which extended to the westward for about twelve miles in the 
 form of a horseshoe, having its seaside thickly studded with grounded 
 ice, while the interior was exempt from any, I sent Mr. Court (second 
 master) to examine it, who reported an excellent and commodious har- 
 bour, well sheltered from N.W. to south, carrying five fathoms within 
 10 yards of the beach, which was shingle, and covered with driftwood. 
 A set of sights was obtained, and a cask containing a notice was left 
 there; its position lat. 71" ^6' N., long. 125" 2!)' W. From this the 
 land turns abruptly N. by E., and a great change takes place in its 
 general aspect, generally becoming low and fiat, so that near the beach 
 it is scarcely discerniljle, resembling separate sand-banks, but, upon 
 closing it, a low spit, barely above the level of the water was remarked 
 connecting them. The lead may be considered as an infallible guide 
 along the whole of this coast, as the soundings are regular from 3 to 
 30 fathoms, at from one to four miles off shore. 
 
 Upon the morning of the 19th we left this low coast, and passed 
 between two small islands lying at the entrance of what ajipeared. 
 a deep inlet, running E.S.I']., and then turning shaij) to the 
 N.E. It had a barrier of ice extending across, which prevented 
 any examination. "Wishing to keep belweeii the northenuuost of 
 
7 
 
 r I 
 
 ;s() 
 
 TAl'IAIN m'( UIIK'm KI; I',\T( iir.s. 
 
 t1i'.*s(> islands niul the iiiaiiiland, to nvoiil tlif pack, wliii-li was 
 very near it, we iiainiwly I'scaniMl p'ltill^ ou short', as a net' 
 (Alt'iitlcd iVotii tlic latter to witliiii lialC a iiiilc of tlir island. 
 Koitonattly, tlii" wind hiini; lijilit, we nunidrd to will; all llio 
 sttid(lin<; sails set, and let ^o tin* anclior in two and ii hall' t'athoins, 
 having about tour inches to spare nnder the keel, and warped into I'onr ; 
 while Mr. (lonrt was sei!t to lind a channel, in which he succeeded, 
 carryin<; three t'athonis, through which wx> ran tor one mile, and theii 
 coiilinned onr course in eiy;ht, havini; from three to liv»' miles hetween 
 the ice nnd land. At H p.m. \vc neared two other islands, the ice 
 restinj; upon the westernmost, upon which the pressure must have 
 hceu excessive, as lar^e masses were forced nearly over its summit, 
 which was upwards of II) feet, lietweeu these and the main we ran 
 through a chaiuiel in from nine to tifteen fathoms, when an imnu'diate 
 nnd marked ehnuge took place in the {^'ueral appearance and forma- 
 tion of the laiul ; it became hii;h, preci|»ifous, sterile, and rnjru;c<l, 
 intersected with deep ravines ami watercourses, havinj; (i."» fathoms 
 at n (piarter of a ntile, and 15 fathoms 101) yards from the clilVs, 
 which |)roved exceedinjrly fortunate, as the whole pack, which had 
 apj)arently only just broken fnnn the shore, was within half a mile, 
 and in immy places so close to it that, to avoid uetting beset, we had 
 nearly to touch the land. Indeed, upon several occasions, the boats 
 were compelled to be topped up, and |ioles used to keep the vessel olV 
 the f^rounded ice, which exteiuls all along this coast ; nor could we 
 round to, fearful of carryinu; the jibboijui away against its clill's, which 
 here run nearly east and west. The cape forndnu; its western extreme, 
 I have called Prince Alfred, in honour of his Uoyal Highness. There 
 were two apparently good harbours about JO miles to the eastward of 
 the cape; the wester. nnost had a breakwater halfa-niile in length, 
 twenty feet high, facing the north, with entrances on its east and west 
 sides about sixty yards in breadth ; the other was isircular, about thre(r- 
 (piarters of a mile in diameter, with its entrance on the west side. 
 Our critical position would not admit of any ditcntioii, otherwise they 
 would have been sounded, being very anxious to find a secure retreat 
 iu the event of Iiaving to winter on this coast. The weather had been 
 fine, with a S.E. wind, which veered to the W.S.W., bringing fog nnd 
 rain ; so that on the morning of the '20th onr further progress was 
 imj)eded by finding the ice resting u|)on a point, which formed a slight 
 iudeutntion of the shore, and was the only j)lace where water could 
 be seen. To prevent being carried away with the pack, which was 
 filling up its space, we secured to the inshore side of n small but 
 heavy j)iece of ice, grounded in twelve fathoms, 71 yards from the 
 beach — the only proteeti(m against the tremendous Polar ice (setting a 
 knot per hour to the eastward before a fresh westerly wind), which at 
 9 p.m. placed us in a very critical position, by a large fioe striking the 
 piece we were fast to, and causing it to oscillate so considerably, that a 
 tongue, which happened to be under our bottom, lifted the vessel six 
 feet ; but, by great attention to the anchors nnd warps, we succeeded in 
 holding on during the conflict, which was continued several minutes, 
 termin.nting by the floe being rent in j)ieccs and our being driven nearer 
 the beach. From this until the 2!)th we lay perfectly secure, but at 
 S a.m. of that day the ice began suddeidy to move, when a large floe 
 which must have caught the [)iece to which we were attached under 
 
 large 
 
n 
 
 (Al'IAIN M'lTUIIK'b DKSt'ATCIIKH, 
 
 81 
 
 lii'h WM 
 
 i<* a reef 
 
 i> iNlmitl. 
 
 till iIm! 
 
 t'atliniiis, 
 iito t'oiil' ; 
 iicct't'iUMl, 
 
 niid tlicii 
 s ln'twccii 
 1, tin- ici! 
 iiist liavo 
 I sunitnit, 
 lin we rail 
 iniucdiatu 
 lul tbriiia- 
 1 nijrunl, 
 CatlKiiiis 
 till' I'lin's, 
 
 liicli had 
 lit' a mile, 
 't, we liad 
 
 flic lioals 
 ' Vl'riSid olV 
 
 cdiild \vc 
 lis, wliirii 
 I I'XtrciiK', 
 s. There 
 istw.ird of 
 
 III 
 
 ltM|i,'ll 
 
 and NM'st 
 )iit thre(!- 
 
 c'st side, 
 wise they 
 re retreat 
 
 iiad heeii 
 t; f'oji; and 
 ijre.ss was 
 'd a sli};ht 
 Iter coidd 
 
 lieh \\!\a 
 small but 
 
 t'roin the 
 (setting a 
 , which at 
 iking the 
 )ly, tliat a 
 
 vessel six 
 acceded in 
 I minutes, 
 len nearer 
 u'e, hut at 
 
 large ihw 
 
 led under 
 
 one of its overhanging ledge.s, raised it perptMidieular .'JO feet, pre- 
 Henting to all on hoard a most frightful aspeet. An it asecndcd nhovc 
 the forevard, iiiiieh a|ipreheii.->ion was felt that it might he thrown eoiii- 
 pli'lely oM-r, when the ship must have heen crushed heneath it. 'i'liin 
 MiisneiiMu was hut lor a tew minuteH, as the floe rent, carrying away 
 witii it a large piete from the foimdation of our asvlum, when it ra\e 
 several feart'ul rolls ami resumed its former position ; hut, no Ioniser 
 capable of resisting the pressure, it was hurried onward with the drift- 
 ing mass. Our proximity to the shore compelled, as our only hopes of 
 safety, the absolute necessity of holding to it ; we conseipU'iitly secured 
 with a chain stream and hemp cable three six and two tive-ineh hawsers, 
 three of which were passed round it. In this state we wtre lorced 
 along, sinking large pieces beneath the bottmu, and sustaining a heavy 
 strain against the stern and rudder; the latter was much damaged, i.'.it 
 to unship it at present was impossible. At I p.m. t)ie pressure eased, 
 from the iee becoming stationary, when it was unlut ig and laid npnn a 
 large lloe piece, where, by S p.m., owing to the activity of Mr. lord, 
 the carpenter, who is always ready to meet any emergiiicy, it was 
 repaired, just as thir ice began again to be in motion ; but as the tackles 
 were hooked, it was run up to the davits without further damage. We 
 were now setting fiist upon another large piece of a broken lloe, 
 grounded in nine fathoms upon the debris formed at the mouth of a 
 large river. Feeling eonfident that should we be caught between this 
 and what we were fast to, tin; ship nuist inevitably go to pieces, and 
 vet being aware that to cast off would certainly send us on the beach, 
 from which we were never distant iSO yards, upon which the smaller 
 iee was hurled as it came in contact with these grounded masses, 1 sent 
 ,)(din Kerr (gnimer's mate), under very difficult circumstances, to 
 endeavour to reach it and effect its destruction by blasting. He could 
 not, however, find a suitieient space of water to sink the charge, but 
 remarking a large cavity upon the sea face of the floe, he fixed it there, 
 which so far succeeded that it slightly fractured it in three places, 
 which at the moment was scarcely ouservable from the heavy pressure 
 it was sustaining. Jiy this time the vessel was within a few feet of it, 
 and everyone was on deck in anxious suspense, awaiting what was 
 apparently the crisis of our fate. Most fortunately, the sternpost took 
 it so fairly that the pressure was fore and aft, bringing the whole 
 strength of the shij) to bear ; a heavy grind which shook every mast, 
 and caused beams and decks to complain as she trembled to the 
 violence of the shock, plainly indicated that the struggle would be but 
 of short duration. At this moment the stream cable was carried away, 
 and several anchors drew. Thinking that we had now sutticiently 
 risked the vessel, orders were given to let go all the warps, and with 
 this order I had made u)) my mind that in a few minutes she would be 
 on the beach ; but, as it was sloping, conceived she might still prove 
 an asylum for the winter, and possibly be again got afloat, while, should 
 she be crushed between these large grounded pieces, she must inevi- 
 tably go down in ten fathoms, which would be certain destruction to 
 all ; but before the orders could be obeyed, a merciful Providence inter- 
 posed, causing the ice, which had been previously weakened, to separate 
 into three pieces, and it floated onward with the mass, our stern still 
 tightly jammed against, but now protected by it. The vessel, wliieh had 
 been thrown over lij degrees, and risen 1 foot 8 hiches, now righted and 
 
;; 
 
 .1 ■ 
 
 32 CAl'TAiN M'cLUUK's DICSPATCIIKS. 
 
 settled in the water ; the only dnmage sustained was several sheets of cop- 
 per ripped off and rolled u]) like a sheet of paper, Ijut not a fastening 
 had given way, nor docs any leakaj^e indieate tlie sliu;htest defect, iiy 
 niidni<:;ht the'icc was stationary and everything quiet, which continned 
 luitil the lOth of Se))tend)er ; indeed, from the tenii)erature having 
 fallen to 1(5 degrees, with all the appearance of the setting in of tlio 
 winter, I considered our further progress sto|)ped initil next year. The 
 crew were enii)loyed collecting halhist (of which they obtained ."i') tons), 
 and other arrangements making for such an event. Shooting and other 
 parties made daily excursions iidand ; in which randjles an exceetlingly 
 old Esquimaux encampment was met Avith, and n most interesting dis- 
 covery of a range of hills, composed of one entire mass of wood in 
 every stage, from a petrifaction to a log fit for firewood. Many large 
 trees were among it, but, in endeavouring to exhume them, they were 
 found to be too much decayed to stand removal ; the largest piece that 
 we have been able to bring away being .S feet 10 inches in girth, and 
 seven in length. These were found by Messrs. Sainshury and Piers, at 
 an elevation of 300 feet above the beach (in lat 74' 27' N., long. ]22" 
 32' 1.5" W.), which is strewed with chips and small bits of wood, as 
 are the watercourses and ravines as far as any person has walked iidand, 
 evidently washed down by the thaw from these 'igneous hills. The 
 country has fine valleys, well covered with verdure, and at some period 
 of the year must be frequented by large herds of animals, as the heads 
 of musk oxen and the well-|)ieked carcasses of deer are everywhere met 
 with, many quite fresh. Two large wolves were disturbed in the act of 
 finishing a fawn which they had just killed, but only two musk oxen 
 were seen, besides a few hares and ptarmigan shot by our parties. To- 
 day the temperature, from a change of wind to the southward, rose to 
 3!) degrees, accompanied by rain, which had the etfect of so loosening 
 the ice that the main pack separated from the shore, about half a-mile 
 from the ship, opening a lane of water al)out Hi miles to the eastward, 
 varying in breadth from .00 to 200 yards, which, however, did not |>ro- 
 niise any release to the vessel, until 1 l-.OO p.m. (while the officer of the 
 watch and quarter-master were examining the tide ])ole fixed on the 
 beech, through u hole cut in the ice, about 40 yards from the shore, it 
 j)uzzled them both to find that they could not keep the gauge erect, as 
 it slipped from their hands while endeavouring to do so) when it noise- 
 lessly opened, and we drifted towards the pack, which it was impossible 
 to avoid, and were carried to the N.3']. a knot per hour, at the distance 
 of half-a-mile from the shore, in soundings from 107 to 134 fathoms; 
 all methods b^ warps and saws to extricate the vessel from her p( rilous 
 position proving abortive, having nnxsses of ice firndy frozen to her 
 bottom. Kecoiu'se was had to gunpowder, which fortunately effected 
 her release by the expenditure of 1.^0 lbs. in charges of from 3 lbs. to 
 2() lbs., according to tiie distance from the vessel, which by any other 
 means could not have been achieved. This saved us from being set 
 against the thick grounded ice which was resting upon Point Colquhoun 
 — certain destruction — into which we should have been hurried by five 
 minutes' longer detention, having barely time to make sail and shoot 
 the vessel, without rudder, clear of the piece wc liad been so long 
 frozen to into liie water, cutting the hawsers, winch canted us, just as 
 it entered the solid mass, upon the weather edge of wliieh we twice 
 grazed as we worked into the land; when, at 7 p.m. of the 11th, we 
 
 tl( 
 
 an 
 ui 
 n 
 it 
 
II excceu 
 
 OAI'TAIN M'cI,U1:i:'s DUSPATCIIES. 33 
 
 again secured to a large grouiuled floe, 70 yards from it, in 10 fathoms. 
 At 10 p.m. our position was hazarded by a portion of the main pack, 
 which had extended itself over the oj)cn water, coming in violent colli- 
 sioii with the corner of our floe, turning it partially Vound, while the 
 smaller ice pressed with so much strain upon the ship that the anchors 
 i)egan to draw and hawsers carry away ; the stream chain luckily held 
 until the i)ressuro ceased by the pack givhig way, and our being pushed 
 a few fathoms nearer the shore. At 2-5(') a.m'. of the 13th a lane of 
 water opened nl)out (iO yards from the vessel, and towards noon a rise 
 in the temperature to I.", degrees, with heavy rain, created hopes of 
 li!)cration, an object of the utmost importance*, not only with respect to 
 the views with which the expedition was fitted out, but for the safetv 
 of the ship, at i)resent in a most exposed jjosition, being Jipon the 
 eastern side of a large bay, oj)cn to the whole pressure of the Polar 
 pack, and surrounded with masses of ice Hi and IS feet thick, while 
 tlic grounded floes were from 10 to (5/ feet in depth. To remove these 
 impediments, or, at all events, endeavour the formation of a dock, 
 blastinif was had recourse to, with charges of from 10 lbs. to 0511)5. 
 Those made little impression, except near the explosion ; therefore a 
 L'(j-gallon rum cask, containing 2.");") lbs., was now sunk live fathoms, 
 among these large masses, at .'iO yards from the vessel ; its eftect was 
 most conclusive, shivering them to atoms, rending that to which we 
 were attached, and which was (i7 feet thick on the outer and .'-;.■) feet on 
 its inshoro edge, asimder, without the concussion being very much ielt 
 on board. All hands were employed in floating the loose ice into the 
 water, having vainly attempted to force the ship through, aided by n 
 strong wind, and a nine-inch hawser brought to that ])atent capstan 
 (such resistance from merely this sludge is incredible), which work was 
 continued until the afternoon of the 1 1th, when all was drifted away, 
 leaving a snug harbour 10 yards in width, flanked by heavy grounded 
 floes, forming an excellent })rotection. The rudder was now hung, in 
 anticipation of a start on the following morning ; but at 1 1 p.m. the 
 wind freshened from the W.N.W., bringing the whole pack down 
 upon this coast, filling our little harbour with loose and small ice 
 its entrance being too narrow to admit the large pieces; an enormous 
 lloe, however, carried away one of our flanks, but without disturbing 
 the vessel "in the slightest. At daylight on the morning of the ir)th, 
 these expectations were sadly blighted, it blowing hard from W.N.W., 
 with sleet and snow ; nor was a drop of water to be observed in any 
 direction, and the ice- apparently as firndy fixed as in the depth of 
 winter. The rudder was again unhung, which, with the thermometer 
 at 14 degrees, scarcely afforded any probability of its being reshipped 
 this season. In the* course of the forenoon Messrs. Court (second 
 mate) and Newton (ice-mate) were sent to examine the coast and the 
 state of the ice to the eastward of Point CoUiuhoun, distant about 
 four miles. Their re{)ort was such as to confirm the opinion previously 
 entertained, with this consolation, that the position we which occupied was 
 better than any they had seen, as the ice to the eastward was much 
 larger and more massive than that we were encompassed by. The soil 
 on this coast is composed of gravel and limestone, and in the valleys 
 near the beach the (jur.ntity and richness of the moss is quite sur- 
 prising ; but, on reaching the first rauge of hills, about a mile distant, 
 a more sterile landscape never met the eye. The whole country appears 
 
 
 
34 
 
 CAPTAIN M'CLUUli's DKSrATCllKS. 
 
 ■i 
 
 i! ;■ 
 
 1 ft 
 
 I' 
 (I- 
 
 I 
 
 
 
 f • Ii 
 
 4 
 
 iw: f ! 
 
 I: > 
 
 nothing but one mass of limestone, without the shghtest vegetation ; 
 the traces of animals, so nnmevojis 1 ;"» miles i'nrther west, are nowhere 
 in this barren ground to be met with. 
 
 On the 1 7th the westerly winds ceased, and wove snceecded l)y one 
 froia the eastward, witli a rise of temperature from 11 to 21 di-grees, 
 which, by daylight of the IDtli, had increased to .'Vi, with water 
 extending along the coast three milt s in width. We immediately 
 cast off, and at 7 a.m. rounded the point, whence the land falls 
 baekE.S.E, Our progress was slow from many causes,— the coi)i)cr 
 being torn and projecting from 1 to 12 inches from the bottom, light 
 wind=, and an ice-encumbered sea, so that at '.) p.m. our further 
 advance was arrested by the ]nu'k touching the land and extending 
 with unbroken line to the northward as far iis the eye eoidd reach. 
 Our day's work did not exceed 1.") miles, when we were comiielled 
 to make fast to the land ice, which along the whole of this coast is 
 of the most massive and terrific dimensions I have ever witnessed. 
 There was a httle selection of l)erth on a coast-line nearly straight; but 
 a slight indentation, jiroteeted cast and west by two large pieces of a 
 broken floe 30 feet above the water, gave hopes of some shelter ; when, 
 at () ii.m., the water and loose ice, wliieh was before ])erfectly still, 
 suddenly rushed forward at the rate of two knots an hour, and, Srtriking 
 against the vessel, forced her from her anchors with such violence that 
 she was driven astern upon a hard ])oint of the floe, which raised her 
 12 inches ; but, fortunately, she held until tlie rush was over, which 
 swept away our eastern bulwark, but did no other damage. We tlien 
 vvarjjed to "the western side of the Hoc, where n small space was blasted 
 for the bow, in which we ([uietly remained during the night. 
 
 At dayhght of the 2()th, finding the ice loose and drifting, though 
 a perfect calm, a mile and a half an hour to the eastward, we east 
 off, and, laying hold of a large lloe-jtiece, were dragged along close by 
 the grounded ice, whieli with some ditUenlty was avoiiled i)y sliil'ting 
 round the tloe as it canted towards us. At noon, having a light air from 
 the Avestward, made sail, but soon had reason to regret it, ns it 
 shortly failed, and, the ice tilling the land water, it grailualy,i ;rced 
 the vessel into the pack, whicli hitherto we had been so anxious 
 and careful to avoid. As the only h()])e of navigating this sea con- 
 sists in keeping close to the shore, it now became evident that 
 every exertion must be made i)y warping to regain the land ; which, 
 under the circumstances of the ice being in motion, with nnu'li that 
 was small and loose filling up the intervals between the larger ))itces, 
 which allowed a secure footing for the men, was ditlicnit, lal)orious, and 
 anxious in the extreme, as with every ])reeantion they frecpiently fell 
 in. After seven hours' incessant work, we succeeded, as the night closed, 
 in reaching a huge and solid tloe that had just l)ecn upturned, three of 
 its sides being 2.') feet perpendicular, grounded in 2!) fathoms on the 
 outer edge, and having lOJ upon the iimer one, around which was scat- 
 tered much debris, part of its original self that had crundded from the 
 pressure against a cliff', up which it had been ihrccd i'nW 70 feet, and 
 where a large mass was still renniining about a mile to the westward of a 
 cape (Austen), 400 feet in height, winch is stratified, and of the same 
 description as Nelson's Head, where we secured for the night. 
 
 At daylight of the 21st, a thick fog, with hail, ])ernntted a very circum- 
 scribed view ; but as the ice appeared loos,^ in the direction of the cape, at 
 6 a.m. we started, and, grazing round it within 1.1 yards, found ourselves 
 
CAPTAIN M'cr.URE's DESPATCIIK8. 35 
 
 in a large bay entirely covered with ice, formed by another cape three 
 miles S.IO., compelling us, at ().;H) a.m., to make last immcdiiitely be- 
 neath the cliiV, the summit of which nearly jjlumbing the hatchways, 
 rendered our pofiition very unsafe, many fragments appearing so loose 
 from the action of frost and water that a slight concnssion would 
 have brought them down. At 11 a.m. the ice eased a little from the 
 land, when we again eiuleavoured to force towards the S.E., aided by 
 a westerly wind and war|)ing ; hut in the afternoon the fog became so 
 dense, with an easterly breeze, that we made fast to the land floe ; in which 
 a small dock was formed with the assistance of the little ])owder, about a 
 mile from our forenoon's position, remaining until the morning of the 
 2Jnd, when a little progress was made towards tli'^ S.E., our opera- 
 tions by warping being brought to a termination. At 1 p.m. having 
 reached thecajjc (Cro/ier), uj)on the south-eastern side of which the ice 
 was resting, and having secured to a ridge 20 feet in heigth lying at its 
 base, I proceeded with Mr. Court to its summit for tlie purpose of examin- 
 ing the coast line towards the S.E. A deep bay, extending ;}() miles in 
 that direction, filled with ice, which was connnencing to move bodily to 
 the westward, and of a nnu'h less formidable character than that we had 
 been subjected to, while what was lying along the shore was small and 
 widely detached, well repaid the toil of ascent. Indeed, since rounding 
 Cnpc Austen, it has lost nuich of its terrible aspect, whic:h led to the 
 inference that we were fairly in Barrow's Strait, and that the main l*olar 
 pack takes a direct line from the last-mentioned cape to the K.X.E,, and 
 that which iills these bays and is carried down Barrow's Strait is the 
 comjjaratively small ice which drifts from its southern edge, as we have 
 invariably remarked that there is a decidedly easterly current, which 
 impels the enormous Polar iloes on that course while the lighter, inllu- 
 eneed by wind, is oftentimes setting in an opposite direction. This 
 cape (Crozier) is 2r)() feet perpendicular, presenting among its cKhri'^ 
 many interesting geological specimens ; it is com])Osed of lime and 
 sandstone, having I'ossiliferous shells ind)edded, also pieces of coal and 
 petrefactions of wood, identical with what has been met with ujjon other 
 parts of this large island and upon the Princess Royal Isles. 
 
 At o.'M) a.m. of the 2.'h'd, although not dayhght, open Avater was ascer- 
 tained to be at h.and, from the dark appearance of the horizon to 
 seaward. The vessel was cast ofll', and, standing in that direction, we 
 found we liaa not been deceived ; the wind during the forenoon coming 
 from the westward, enabled us to run close along the shore, on which 
 still rested a line of thin ice, rendering the entrance of what appeared 
 three good harbours inaccessible. The la:.;l was much less rugged, 
 having'small hills gradually sloping to the beach, and large vallevs well 
 calculated for the pasture lands of animals ; but no particle of driftwood 
 could be observed,— which article has not been seen, excepting the small 
 chi])s near the ligneous hills, since rounding Point Kellett, on the 
 western shore. At r).30 j).m. our course was nearly obstructed, from 
 the ice resting upon a point about two miles distant ; the studding sails 
 were taken in, but almost immediately reset, as it gradually ojjened, 
 allowing sullicient space for our ])assage by topping up the lower booms. 
 The shm-e shortly trending more to the southward increased our water, 
 but snow and thick weather, with night coming on, rendered the land 
 not 200 yards distant barely discernible ; most anxious, howrever, at the 
 
 2 c . 
 
 m 
 
 I 
 
I 
 
 36 
 
 CAPTAIN M'cI.URK's PKSI'ATCUKS. 
 
 i; * 
 
 
 
 '^ 
 
 close of the season to ciiibrncc every oppoitunity of getting to some 
 place of secnrity, our course was contiuucd with ensy canvass, when, 
 under other circunistance:<, we should have most assuredly secured for 
 the uight, and at 7.30 p.m., with the lead going, went from 1 j fathoms 
 upon a mud bank, having only six feet under the how, and at the 
 distance of 10 feet from the stern only 18 inches, while the stern was 
 in five fathoms. The stream anchor and calde were laid out, — which 
 service was well performed by Messrs. Wynniatt, Sainsbury, and Court, 
 it rerpiiring four boats in consc(pienee of the freshening N.AV. gale and 
 pieces of loose ice with snow, which, caking as it reached the water, 
 formed so thick a coating over its surface, and offered such resistance, 
 that it was scarcely possible to pull through. However, with clearing 
 the forehold and warrant- otticcrs' store-rooms, and bringing all the 
 weight abaft the mizen-niast, at 10 p m. we were enabled to heave off, 
 and brought u]) with both bowers in six fathoms and a half. The re- 
 mainder of the night was occujiied in restowing the holds, weighing the 
 stream-anchor, &c., so that at daylight of the 24th we were in ])erfect 
 readiness to move. On u view of our |K)sition, we found that we were 
 on the N.AV. side of a large bay, the eastern limit of wiiich bore X.E. 
 eight miles (which we subsecpiently found formed the western point of 
 Banks's LanJ), and riuming to the S.S.W. about seven, which was 
 rapidly filling up with ice; flowing in before a fresh gale from the Polar 
 Sea. Still wishing to see if any possibihty remained of getting down 
 IJarrow's Strait, we weighed, and st(jod as lar as the ice would allow to 
 the N.l:]., when, observing from the crow's-nest no water in that direc- 
 tion, I determined to make this our winter (piarters, and. having re- 
 marked upon the south side of the hank on which we had groimded a 
 well protected bay, Mr. Court was despatched to sound it ; and, sluirtly 
 making the signal that there was sufficient water, we bore U]), ami at 
 r.-l"» a.m. we anchored in four and a half fathoms, and tliat night were 
 firmly frozen in, in what has since ])roved a most safe and excellent 
 harbour, which, in grateful remembrance of tiie many jjerils that we 
 had escaped during the passage of that terrible Polar Sea, we have 
 named the " Buy of Mercy," thus finally terminating this short season's 
 operations, having been actually only five enlire days under way. Pre- 
 parations were now made for housing in, and everything was completed 
 by October 1, except hauling over the cloth, which was not done that 
 the daylig>t should be enjoyed as long as possible, and a saving in 
 lights eff >' ,ed. On that day, as a precautiimary measme, the crew- 
 were placed upon two-thirds allowance of all species of provisions. 
 Upon the 4th, Mr. Court was sent with a travelling jjartv to coimect 
 our position with that visited by Lieutenant Cresswell m Mav last, 
 from which we were only distant' IS miles. On the 7th lie returned, 
 which ser\ ice completed the search around tiie entire coast line of this 
 island ; he reported o|»en water a few miles from the shore, which, 
 gradually extending, reached the cliffs of Banks's Land. Upon the 
 \ith, as, with two men, he was examining a few miles to the south- 
 eastward of his tent, the current detached' fh^ l,oavv gromided land ice 
 from Its base, drifting the whole party off shore to the N.W. ; fortu- 
 nately, being unencumbered with the sledge, tiiey succeeded with diffi- 
 culty and by much agility, jumping from piece 'to piece, in regaining 
 the shore, and that evening no ice could be remarked in the Strait, the 
 who . bemg set into the Polar Sea. 
 
CAPTAIN M'oIJ Itli's DKSPATCllHS. 
 
 37 
 
 ,hiiig the 
 
 10 crew 
 
 )visi()n-. 
 
 POlUUTt 
 
 ly last, 
 turiu'd, 
 
 of this 
 
 which, 
 )on tlic 
 
 south- 
 find ioc 
 rortii- 
 \i dim- 
 
 On the 1 01 h, Mr. Sivinshnry (mftlc), with a travelling party, went lo ex- 
 amine an inlet, which appeared to rnn sonic distance to the S.W. from the 
 sonth side of the hay ; but npon the following day returned, finding it 
 extended only 12 n)iles, the water shoaling, until it finally terminated in a 
 large marsh, which, from the numerous traces of animalsand wild fowl, may 
 be considered as a favourite resort during the summer. As there appeared 
 much game in the vicinity, and the weather continued mild, shooting 
 parties under Lieulcnant Crcsswell, Messrs. Wynniatt, Court and Piers, 
 and the Marines, nndor Sergeant Woon, were* established in different 
 directions between the IHh and 2:5rd ; so that,'with what was killed from 
 the sliij), our supply of fresh provisio)is at the commencement of the 
 winter consisted of nine deer, ys hares, and 44 ])tarmigan, all in line 
 condition, the former having iiom two to three inches of fat. 
 
 The weather during the winter has been much more boisterous, but 
 in each month several degrees more mild than was experienced in the 
 Prince of Wale.^" Strait, nearly a degree and a half further Eouth, last 
 year, which, in conjunction with the aninnds remaining in numbers ii: 
 this locality the entire winter, must, I suppose, l)c taken as a proof of 
 its mildness, although lying exposed to the north-west winds, direct 
 from the Polar Sea, which, njion our first being frozen in, led to the 
 anticipation of having to encounter a very severe season. In conse- 
 (pienee of our favoured position the crew were enabled to ramble over 
 the hills almost daily in quest of game, and their exertions happily 
 supplied a fresh meal of venison three times a fortnight, with the ex- 
 ception of about three weeks in January, when it was too dark for 
 shooting. The small game, such as ])tarmigan and hares, being scave, 
 were allowed to be retained by the sportsmen as private properly. 
 This healthy and exhilarating exercise kept us all well and in excellent 
 spirits during another tedious v. inter, so that on the 1st of April we 
 had uj)war(ls of l,()()()lbs. of venison hanging at the yard-arms. All 
 wearing so fair an aspect, and being desirous of visiting AVinter Har- 
 bour, Melville Island, with the hope of meeting an oiticer there with 
 wiiom arrangements might be nnide in the event of any accident occur- 
 ring which would render it necessary to quit the ship, I proceeded on 
 the 11th with Mr. Court (second master) and a sledge party for that 
 ))()rt ; but in consequence of thiirk weather coming on a few hours after 
 leaving the vessel, and continuing nnhitermittingly for several days, we 
 did not reach until the '28th. Upon the Kith we observed a vtry lofty 
 cape, bearing N.E. by V.. ,'U) miles, which 1 have called Queen Victoria, 
 in honotir of her Most Gracious ^Majesty (the same which had been 
 remarked last autumn from the high land near the ship). The land of 
 the north-cast forms the bottom of Lyddon Gulf, while that upon i'.s 
 western side stretched to the N."\V., in one unbroken mountain line as 
 far as the eye could reach. At Winter Harbour we obtained a set of 
 sights for the purpose of testing our chronometers, which were ascer- 
 tained to be going exceedingly well ; and, having deposited a notice of 
 ottr visit uiukr the same cairn where Lieutenant M'Clintock left one 
 last year, upo)i a large fragment of sandstone, bearing this inscription, 
 viz: "His Britannic Majesty's ships //ec/a and Griper, Comm mders 
 Parry and Lvddon, wintered'in the adjacent harbour during the winter 
 of 1HI!).20.— A. Fisher, sculpsit," at p.m. commenced our return, 
 
 •> ■ 
 
 m 
 
 pj 
 
 
' 1 
 
 ^i 
 
 If 
 
 88 CAPTAIN M'CT.UHR's DESPAl'CllES. 
 
 travelling upon flat ice nearly the entire way ; accomplishing in ten 
 (lays what occupied eighteen upon the outward tri|), and reached the 
 ship upon the 9th of ^Nfay, when I had the gratification of receiving the 
 most satisfactory reports concerning our sanitary condition, and like- 
 wise that tlie supply of venison contiiuied abundant, having twenty head 
 of deer on board. In consequence, the ration of venison was increuhed 
 to I, Ul). thrice a week, as the crew were iiard at work, clojuing tiie 
 holds, collecting and bringing off ballast — the latter a very laborious oc- 
 cupation, from the large space they had to search over in picking up a 
 sulliciency of stone to complete KM) tons, which was not accomplished 
 until the 2r)tli; after which wc commenced watering, obtaining it from 
 a lake about n mile from the ship, by boring through 7 feet 10 inches 
 of ice, and cutting a reservoir to receive it, this forming a species of 
 artesian well, which gave a bountiful snjjply, enal)ling the water to be 
 comi)leted by the 12th of June, previous to the commencement of the 
 thaw, which was a great advantage to the crew, as it kept them dry- 
 footed. About this thne Hocks of wild fowl, consisting of swans, geese, 
 and all descrij)tious of ducks, l)igan to arrive, !)ul, finding no water, 
 merely took u llight round the north-west extreme of !he land and 
 returned to the southward ; from which it would appear that llic season 
 is late. Indeed, the laud is as uuich eovered with snow, as in the depth 
 of winter ; iior was it until the lioth of tiie montii tliat any alteration 
 took place, when small streams connnenced trickling down the sunny 
 slopes of the ravines, and little j)onds formed upon tlie ice. 
 
 On the .'30th we h.ad an entire day of h"avy snow, with one of the 
 most severe northerly gales I ever witnessed at so advanced a period 
 of the season; and upon the 1st of July found tliat tlie ice had in- 
 creased its thickness four inches during the last month, l)eing seven feet 
 two inches ; a most unusual circumstance, as both at Port Leopold and in 
 the Prince of A^'ales' Strait we found a very consideraljle decrease. 
 During the month of June the temperature likewise was very low, 
 showing an average of. '51 J". The appearance of the crew, at their 
 monthly insjieetion, elicited a more unfavour.-^ble report from the sur- 
 geon than I have hitherto received ; evident symptoms of debility 
 among the generality of them, and sixteen having a decided seorbntic 
 tendency, pl.iinly the effect of the late heavy Labour in ballasting and 
 watering ; but as all our work is now on board, their gradual return 
 to perfect health m;iy be anticipated, without encumbering the sick list. 
 
 On the 8th of July, Sergeant Woon, of the Marine^-, while in 
 pursuit cf a wounded deer, unex])ectedly met a couple of luusk 
 hulls, which he succeeded in killing, evincing the nuist soldier-like 
 coolness .ind intrepidity during the entire transaction. Having ex- 
 pended his ammunition as one of the wounded and infuriated Uionsters 
 rushed towards him, he fired his " worm " when at a few yards, but 
 without much effect. Tlie animal continued his advance, evidently, 
 however, weak from loss of blood, till he had reached within 
 six feet, when, putting his head to the ground previous to his final rush, 
 tl.e sergeant, as his last resource, fired his iron rann-od, which entering 
 behind the left shoulder, passed through the heart and out at the right 
 flank, dropj)ing him dead at liis feet. They are fine aninuds, whose 
 gross weight is l,3;30lbs,, and yield, after deducting offal and hunters' 
 perquisites, O.^Olbs. of excellent beef; wh 
 
 1> 
 
 'Pl'ly 
 
CAPTAIN JI'cIJJUK's Dr.SPATCllKS. 
 
 39 
 
 
 most opportune, ns our rcintlcor A\(rc fxpeiidccl Inst week. Two Esqui- 
 rniiux luits upon u small islet in the centre of tlie hay, and the site of 
 an eneainpnu'iit on a jioaked hill on the western shore of the mnhiland, 
 are the only indications we have met with of that extraordinary and 
 hardy people havinj-- nt some i)eriod long past inhabited this coast. "NVe 
 have now diseovered traces of them upon all sides of this island ; hut 
 where are they gone ? for certainly there is not one upon it at present, 
 or why should they have (juittcd' an island so abounding throu"-hout 
 the entire year with game, except, as the Esquimaux interpreter 
 observes, there may be a great ])aucity of seals, without which luscious 
 food they cannot exist ; and this may l)e the reason, as we have seen 
 very few. 
 
 l)nring the month of July the little thaw, which a temperature falling 
 to ;{1" every night and rising only to ;if)^ and l'i° in the day could 
 effect, has not been much ; but the water draining from the land, rotted 
 the ice round the entire bay, and detached it from 100 to .SOO yards 
 from the shore, so that it has ])ower to move, and only requires open 
 water in the offing to allow of its going out, which joyful event we 
 entertained hopes of realizing, as upon the lOth of August some lanes 
 of water were observed to seaward, and along the cliffs of Banks's 
 Land there was a clear space of six miles in width, extending along 
 them as far as the eye could reach from the north-west hills, at an 
 elevation of 1,0()() feet ; and on the I'Jth the wind, which had been for 
 !ioine time from the northward, veered to the south, which had the 
 circet of "^cparaling the sea ic? from that of the hay entirely across the 
 <iitrance ; hut, shortly shifting to the north, it closed again, and never 
 at'trr moved. On the L'Oth the temperature fell to 27", when the entire 
 bay was completely frozen over, and on the '27th to 19°, so that the 
 wliole aspect was i-neerless in the extreme, the young ice being two- 
 aud-a-half inches thick, so that the whole bay might be safely peram- 
 buhited ; indeed, the summer was fairly gone, for the uplands were all 
 pnow-covcred, the wild fowl <ill departed, and the flowers, which gave 
 diet rfnl variety to this bleak land, were all withered. The very season 
 might be considered as one long sunless day, as since the latter part of 
 iSIay that luminary had been scarcely visible, or his influence felt, upon 
 those ic\ masses which l)loek Barrow's Strait entirely across ; nor do I 
 imagine that tlie Polar Sea had broken up that season, as not a drop of 
 water had heeu seen in that direction. During July, and the early 
 ])art of August, the crew were d^ily employed gathering sorrel, of which 
 there was a great quantity ujion the hills in this vicinity, and, eaten as 
 a salad, with vinegar, or boiled, when it resembled spinach, it was found 
 a most admirable anti- scorbutic, and a great benefit to all, being exceed- 
 ingly relished ; hut that hardy and miserable herbage could not with- 
 btand this rigorous summer beyond the I.")th of the month. For 
 several days the ice had been perfectly stationary and no water visible 
 in any direction, that along the cliffs of Banks's Land being frozen, so 
 that i felt assured that the winter had fairly set in, and all hopes of any 
 release this year were totally annihilated, the young ice being five 
 inches thic;k. Having previously determined what course I should 
 adopt under circumstances thus unfavourable, upon the 8th of Sep- 
 tember I announced my intentions to the crew of sending half of 
 them to England next April, with all the officers not in charge of 
 
 
 :H.i 
 
 ■'^\ 
 
40 
 
 CAI'TAIN M'CLURE's DKsCATCHKS. 
 
 stores, vid Mnftin's Way (taking the boat from Cape Spcncoi) ami the 
 Mackenzie, detaining the remainder with tlie hope of cxtrioating 
 the vessel during the summer of IH.').'}, or, failing tliat, to proceed 
 with sledges in 1854, by Port Leopold,' our provisions admitting of 
 no other arrangement. Although we had already been twelve months 
 upon two-thirds allowance, it was necessary to make ])reparations for 
 meeting eighteen months more — a very severe deprivation and con- 
 stitutional test — but one which the services we were employed upon 
 called for, the vessel being as sound as the day she entered tlie ice. It 
 would therefore he discreditable to desert her in 18.").'^, when a favour- 
 able season would run her through the Straits, and admit of reaching 
 England in safety, where the successful achievement of the long-sought 
 for and almost hopeiess discovery of the north-west passage would l)e 
 received with a satisfaction that would amply compensate for the sacri- 
 fices made, and hardships endured, in its most Irving and tedious 
 accomplishment. This statement was well received, and its excci'.ti'ju 
 will, I hope, be carried out without ditlleulty. 
 
 On the 17th the wind shifted to the S.S.I'L, and Idew hard, which a 
 few days earlier might have been attended with i'avourable resuUs, but 
 now it had no effect ; the ice, being eight inches thick, was too linn to 
 be moved; the sails were consecpiently unbent, and preparations com- 
 menced for housing in, 
 
 September 24th. — This i§ the anniversary of our arrival. The contrast 
 is very remarkable. AVe entered the bay with the tenipcratiu'e at .■)■'>", 
 and not a particle of ice in it; to-day the therniouioter stands at 'J', 
 with ice which has never moved, and every indication of a very severe 
 winter. 
 
 Upon the 2.5th of October closed the hatchways and housed (he 
 vessel over; it becoming damp and cold between decks, the vajiour- 
 funnels, of which there are five, giving a sutHeient ventilation, lh()t.c 
 over the hatchways being never closed, carry off all inij)urities, so tliat 
 we enjoy a clear, wholesome, atnDsjdiere below. This has very much 
 contributed to the excellent i)reservatiou of our healths, and (lie '.?(ilh 
 being the second anniversary of our discovery of the j)as.sagi', and the 
 last that we should all be together, the occasion was celebratcil by a 
 sm.iU additional allowance of provisions, and an extra glass of grog, 
 which had the effect of putting all in high spirits, so that the evening 
 was passed most jovially in singing and dancing. 
 
 On November 8th, completed the baiddng up and other outside work ; 
 finally terminating our winter arrangements upon the l^th, i)y covering 
 the upper deck with 18 inches of snow. The deer fur the last few 
 days have been coming from the soutlnvard to their wuiter-(|nartcrs 
 among these ravines and sand-hills ; 90 have bcLMi met with at one 
 time, and 40 at another, but so very wild that few have bcin shot. 
 Our two seasons' experience show that these animals do not migrate to 
 the south, as is generally supposed, but bear the extreme rigour of t'le 
 climate, and exist upon the scanty herbage, chiefly the dwurf willow, 
 from off which they Ijreak the snow with their feet', which tajjping can 
 be heard at a considerable distance when the weather is calm, and 
 frequently leads to tiieir discovery. The hnres and ptarmigan have 
 also descended from the high gromid to the sea-ridges, so (hat a supplv 
 of game has been kept up during the winter, "which has enabled 
 
 L 
 
CAPTAIN M'ci.UnE's DKSPATCHES. 
 
 n 
 
 n iVfsh meal to he issued twice weekly, niul the usual Christmas 
 festivities to pass off with the greatest cheerfuluess. As it was 
 to ho our Inst, the crew were determined to make it mcuiDruhle, 
 and their exertions were completely successful. Eacli uicis wa.i 
 j^aily illuminated, and decorated with original paintings hy our lower- 
 deck artists, exhil>iting the ship in i»cr perilous jjositions" during the 
 transit of the Polar Sen, and divers other suhjccts ; hut the grand 
 feiiturt s oi" tho day were the enormous jduin-pnddings, some weio-hing 
 •Jlilhs., haunches of venison, hares roasted, and soup made of llie same, 
 with ])tarniigan and sea-pies. Such dainties in such profusion I should 
 imagine never hcfore graced a ship's lower deck ; any stranger to 
 have witnessed this scene could hut faintly imagine that he saw a 
 crew which had jiassed upwards of two years in these dreary regions, 
 and three entirely upon their own rcsotirccs, enjoying such excellent 
 health. So joyful, so happy, indeed such a mirthful assemhlage, under 
 any circumstances, would he most gratifying to any officer ; but in 
 this lonely situation I could not hut feel deeply im[)rcssed, as I contem- 
 plated the gay and plenteoiis sight, with the many and great mercies 
 which n kind and hcneficcnt Providence had extended towards us, to 
 whum alone is due the heartfelt praises and thanksgivings of all for the 
 great blessings we have hitherto experienced in positions the most 
 desolate which can be conceived. 
 
 Mardi 1. — The most dreary and dark time is now passed, and severe 
 and trying it has iteen. The cold of the last two months was exces- 
 hive, .lanuary showing a mean of 14", being 17" l)elow the correspond- 
 ing ])eriod last year ; and one dav the temperature fell to — (iiV, and 
 for 'J 1 hours actually averaged — 02". I shoidd have doubted the 
 correctness of the thermometer (as no former exjierience sliows so 
 low a register), had it not been well tested the two preceding winters, 
 when it only fell to — .'i2" ; but, independent of the glass, the feel- 
 ings "ave nnmisiakeablo evidence of the extreme keenness of the 
 weather, as, lor one entire week, the temperature never rose above 
 10", the wind l)eing about S.S.W. ; fro\n which quarter, during both 
 winters, we have invariably felt the greatest cold. I therefore inuigine 
 that in the interior the land must be ver\' loftv, as when the wind 
 veers to the north, which is directly ofT the Polar Sea, the glass rises, 
 ■ohowii'g the highest temperature when it is easterly. These low tem- 
 peratures have caused much moisture between decks, and, from not 
 bciu"; able to allow a sufficiency of firing to counteract the effect of 
 the damp atmosphere, it has been materially telt by the crew. T!ic 
 sick list at one })eriod conscfpiently increased to 1 !), — five being cases of 
 scurvy, and the same of dropsy; but now haj)pily reduced to 10, and 
 the surgeon's report, upon the survey of their crew today, as to their 
 general state and condition, is as favourable as I could, under all cir- 
 ciunstances, have anticipated. During the last month we have been 
 employed in gravelling a distance of yOO yards towards the - i-ice, with 
 the hope of its weakening it, in the event of our being able to move 
 when the season for navigation arrives. Upon the 3rd, told the men 
 oft" that where to proceed to England next month via the Miiekcnzie 
 and Baffin's l?ay. They appeared extremely well satisfied with the 
 arrangement, as 1 explained to them my object was to send home all 
 who had suffered the most from the severity of the climate, and to 
 
 r .''■'■\{ 
 
 I : 4 
 
 > ^ 
 
 I V 
 
 ■■I 
 
 
 t 
 
43 
 
 CAPTAtN M'cI.I'IIK's DKSPATrilKS, 
 
 wliom miothcr yonr iuic;lit prove exoecdiiigly tryinu;, ns well ns to re- 
 tain tlic most cnVctivL' incii in tlie cvoiit of l)i'iiij^ dclaincd iinotlicr 
 winter. On the l.'itli the travellers went njjon full ullowanee of pro- 
 visions, which I liavc little doiiht will, before they nre rci(uiretl to 
 btart, f;;ot them in good eondition. 
 
 •21st. — The weather has been henutifid durinj^ tlie last week; the 
 temperature, whieh inilil the Kith eontiniu'd almost daily to fall to 
 — ,')(') , on the 17th rose to - -'_V, the followiiija; day to — I I"", nud on 
 the I'.'th to + '.i'-', which sudden and delightful chnnge, after the 
 excessive cold of the last three months, is most grateful. The invalids 
 are rapidlv improving, the majority taking a daily airing of fi'om two 
 to three hours. The temperature nt noon to-day, exposed to the stni, 
 rose to + 10", so that the extreme severity of the winter is over ; in fnct, to 
 the present ti'.ie, April .'>th, the tem|)crature daily mounts in the shade 
 above zero, which, according to past expcricnoc, is exceedingly mild, and 
 may be considered indicative of an early break up of the ice. God 
 grant such may be the easel On the l."»th it is my intention to start 
 the i)arties destined to make their way to Kngland, and, from oin* good 
 sauitarv ennditioM, I feel but little doul)t all will safelv arrive. A 
 fatigue i)arty, uiider the connuaud of AFr. Court, second master, will 
 a('eom[)any J-ieutenaut Ilaswell for a few days, while John Calder, 
 captain of the forecastle, a trustworthy and zealous jictty otHcer, will 
 ])rocecd with Lieutenant t'resswell as far as the Princess Itoyal Islands, 
 and from the depot there return with as many cases of potatoes and as 
 much chocolate as can l)e brought on the sledge, which extra sui)ply 
 will give an ample allowance of those excellent articles, in the event 
 • f being detained here during the ensuing winter. To this period we 
 liiive not lost an individual of our crew, either by accident or disease ; 
 the officers particularly have enjoyed an immunity from sickness which 
 is surprising, with the exception of ^Ir. Saiiisbury, mate, who, since 
 the winter of IHoO, has sutfered from a jmlmouary complaint that has 
 entirely prevented his participating in the arduous diitics of the 
 travelling ])arties, or in the more exciting but not less laborious occupa- 
 tion of hunting over this rugged and severe country, and Mr. Paine, 
 clerk in charge, who had been a great invalid from rheumatism until 
 this last winter, when he has ir.ade u most rapid and wonderful 
 recovery, and at present is in the enjoyment of more robust health than 
 when he (piitted JOngland. I can attribute our excellent salutary state 
 to the causes previously alluded to in this narrative, in conjunction with 
 the bountit'ul supply of game which a merciful Providence has aided us 
 with, and has so materially added to our otherwise scanty rations, ns 
 well as the excellence of all species of our provisions, which arc certainly 
 ')f the best description 1 ever met with, more particularly the superior 
 (pmlity of the lime-juice, which, as an antiscorbutic has proved most 
 inestimable, with the preserved meats suj)plied by Messrs. Gamble, 
 which, for weight, cx( niption from bone, and excellence, rank in the 
 very highest scale ; and that invaluable vegetable, the preserved potato, 
 manufactured by Edwards. Sir, I have nothing more to add to this 
 narrative, except to state, that I forward a list of game killed, and a 
 monthly mean of the meteorological journal, which has been registered 
 every alternate hour since leaving England by the respective officers of 
 the watches, and carefully arranged and tabulated by Air. Court (second 
 
CAPTAIN M*CI,L'nr,*S DESPATCHES. 
 
 48 
 
 innslor), which cornplctc Tables, I Impc, with otiior iiUorestinj; ol)>,crvii. 
 tions, to 1)0 cimbk'd to carry snlVly home in the ship. 
 
 And, havinii; particularized the otliccrs in the various services they 
 have been cniploycd upon, I canimt conchule without expressini; the 
 extreme satisfaction that the crow have given nic upon all occasions, 
 when, in the perilous passage of tlic Polar Sea, activity, oner-iv, and 
 arduous duty were re(|uired, as well as during this long period of 
 inactivity ; tliey have been characterized by cheerfulness, propriety, and 
 good conduct, which fully entitle them to the most favourable consider- 
 ation of their Lordships. 
 
 I liave the honour to be, Sir, 
 
 Your most obedient hunil)le Servant, 
 
 llOIiKlCr M'CLUUK, Commander. 
 Jhiv of Mercv, Ikring's Island, April .">, ]H;,:). 
 I.at. 7 1' (i' lib N. ; J.ong. 1 IH^ l.V 0' W. 
 
 Jlci' Majesti/s J)iscoi'ei-i/-ft/uj) Ineestiyafor, Ihnj of Meni/, Ijarimfs 
 
 hltiial, /tpril 10, lS.">;i. 
 
 Silt, — In the event of our not getting to England this year, 1 think 
 it necessary to accpiaint you, for the information of the Lords (Jominis- 
 sioners of the Admiralty, what our ojjcrations will be to effect I'lat 
 object in IHjl, that their J>ordships may be enabled to take such cc. 
 ojicrative measures for our relief as may appear expedient. 
 
 Should the ice break up in this bay sufhciently early to permit of 
 our getting through the Straits this season, and finding the water open 
 to the eastward of Leopold Island, it would l)e my object to push 
 forward, without stopj)ing to take on board any ])rovisions from Port 
 Leopold ; but if, on the contrary, the ice should be thiel; towards 
 Lancaster Soimd, I would, if possible, proceed to Port Leojjold, and 
 complete a twelvemonths' provisions, and then risk wintering in the 
 pack, or getting through, in preference to remaining at the al)ove port. 
 If, however, we arc detained in this bay until next year, it will then l)e 
 requisite to leave towards the end of A])ril, and make for Tort Leo])ohi, 
 where I am aware that there is a good boat, a house, and ample 
 sup{)lies ; and, when the uavigaliO season opens, proceed to Pond's liay, 
 coasting along the south shore of Harrow's Straits. Arrivin<r at Pond s 
 IJay, and fiiuling from the Escpiimaux that no whalers have as yet l)een 
 there, I should there await their appearance as long as my provisions 
 would admit, and then go down the west shore of liaffin's I5ay, keeping 
 close along the land floe, where whalers or their boats arc almost certain 
 of being met with. Failing this, I should cross to Disco, with the hope 
 of getting a passage in some of the Danish vessels which come there 
 annually, and leave about the beginning of September ; or, being too 
 late for them, cither charter or purchase one of their coasting schooners, 
 which, I believe, arc made among the settlements, if she was capable of 
 standing an Atlantic voyage. Could jieither of these be accomplished, 
 we must of necessity remain until the following season at that settle- 
 ment. Should auy of Her Majesty's ships be sent for our relief, and 
 
 '4- 
 
 
 if .1 
 
 
-II 
 
 CAl'T.MN MVf.I'RK'H DFhI'ATCIIKH. 
 
 wc hlioiild Imvc f(iiitto(l I'ort I.oopold, a notice, <(iiilaiiiiiii; iiii'itniiaiiou 
 (•(* our route, will be left nt tlie door of the Iioihc on Wlialei's roinl.ur 
 on some conspicuous position ; if, however, on the contrary, no intima- 
 tion .sliojdd he fomid of onr linvin}; been there, it may he at once sur- 
 mised that some fatal catastrophe has happened, cither from heinjj; 
 carried into the Polar ISea, or smashed in Marrow's Straits, and no 
 survivors left. If such should he the case, which, however, 1 will in)t 
 anticipate, it will then l)e quite uuiu'('e.>sary to penetrate further to the 
 westward for our relief, as liv the i»eriod that any vessel could reach that 
 port, we innst, from want of j)rovisions all have peri^died ; in such a 
 case I would submit that the officer may be directed to return, and by 
 no means incur the dani:;cr of losing other lives in quest of those who 
 will then be no more. As, liowever, it may occur (as was the case with 
 Sir John Iloss) that the ire may not break up in I'rinec Kejicnt's Inlet 
 diu'injj: the whole sunmier, it is as wel! to provide against siu'h a contin- 
 gency. If sucli should happen, it wouUl be necessarv to winter at 
 Port Leopold, unless apprised of the locality of any ship that might 
 be sent for our relief, which, I think, might be accomplished without 
 any very great difficulty, ns, although such vessel nmy not be enal)led to 
 get far iq) the Straits, yet, as Admiralty Inlet would be pretty certain 
 of being clear of ice, she might proceed thither, nud in some secure 
 bay freeze in ; and, wlieii the Straits were firmly frozen over, altout the 
 middle of October, n small travelling party could le despatched with 
 the intelligence ; the whole would then proceed to her, aiid although 
 rather Into in the season, men working tor llieir lives arc not likely to 
 be discouraged by a little cold. 
 
 Whatever may be the final termination of this long, todious, but, I 
 hope, not unimportant voyage, I beg, sir, that you will assiu'c their 
 JiOrtlships, that in every stage I hue been guided nitnrcly by what I 
 have considered to he my duty in prd^ecuting to the utmost the object 
 for which the expedition was fittetil out ; and, although we have not 
 snecccded in obtaining nnv iui'oriisiatinu which could throw the sliyrhtest 
 clue upon the tate ot our nnssing countrymen, I hope that the ser>iees 
 |K'rfornu'd in thr tracing a very great extent of coast line, the discovery 
 of much new land — a portion inhabited by ft simple ami primitive 
 people not hitherto known — and, above all, the accurate knowledge of 
 that passage between the Atlantic and Pacific oevans which, for so many 
 hundred years, has baiHed maritime l'jur(q)e its very existence Ixing 
 almost considered sceptical will be considered events suiHciently inter- 
 esting nud important to vVnh from their Lordships a favourable con- 
 sideration of onr services. 
 
 I have the honour to lu-, Sir, 
 
 Your nu)st obedient humble Servant, 
 
 IIOMKIIT M'CLnu:, Commander. 
 
CAPTAIN M'cII'IIK'h DESPATOHKS, 
 
 TABLE, 
 
 Sliowiiif': the Menu Iliinlit (if Minniupfcr, wiih the T»'iii|)('rntnro of 
 till' Air on honnl Her Mnjcstv's sliip hiresliffuhir, tVniii Aujjiist 
 is;»(», ti) Mnrcli, is;.;{: 
 
 
 
 ( 
 
 ■ 
 
 *"*'"■* "^ - ■ ■ 
 
 — na^ 
 
 
 
 • — • 
 
 
 
 IJaronii'ti' 
 
 •. 
 
 T.'IM 
 
 (craliirt 
 
 of Air. 
 
 Mi'aii 
 
 
 Year .111(1 Miiuili. .. . 
 
 
 . 
 
 
 
 
 lorc-c 
 
 
 
 .Maxi. 
 
 Mini- 
 
 
 Maxi- 
 
 Mihi- 
 
 
 of 
 
 
 
 niiiiii. 
 
 iiniii). 
 
 Moan. 
 
 iiunii. 
 
 tiiiiiii. 
 
 Mfan. 
 
 wind. 
 
 
 1 S ■)(). 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 Aii;;ust .. 
 
 .'iOOlJO 
 
 2!»-3))0 
 
 2!)-7.i| 
 
 +.50 
 
 + •■^7 
 
 ^-3(i,5 
 
 3 -.5 
 
 
 Sl'ptL'llllPl'l' 
 
 •(>..() 
 
 •170 
 
 •TtW 
 
 + Ki 
 
 - 1 
 
 i-:'0'2 
 
 3(1 
 
 
 October ., 
 
 •ISO 
 
 •3.NiJ 
 
 •8(il 
 
 + 2t 
 
 -■-'3 
 
 + 2 
 
 2-0 
 
 
 Niivfiiilicr , . 
 
 •270 
 
 'ItiU 
 
 •73!) 
 
 + 7 
 
 -32 
 
 -10-J 
 
 .M 
 
 ' Dt'ccnilii 1 
 
 •.ItiO 
 
 '<IMI» 
 
 •}»78 
 
 - 1 
 
 -10 
 
 -2.;-i 
 
 2'.» 
 
 IS.-.l. 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 .1 iiui.iiy .. 
 
 arw 
 
 •HH) 
 
 •88,5 
 
 -1.5 
 
 _-.l 
 
 -.•)2-.5 
 
 
 I'c'liniarv. . ,. 
 
 •(ia«» 
 
 •030 
 
 •}).58 
 
 — il 
 
 -.,-,1 
 
 — .'(/ •( 
 
 
 M.iii'li ■ ,. 
 
 •rat) 
 
 •338 
 
 •!) Ki 
 
 — .5 
 
 —.1 
 
 -28'S 
 
 
 April 
 
 -tilo 
 
 •110 
 
 30037 
 
 + 38 
 
 -32 
 
 — 1-8 
 
 3-1 
 
 -May 
 
 •«i()0 
 
 •-'iliO 
 
 •023 
 
 + 17 
 
 — •• 
 
 + 18M 
 
 2 2 
 
 
 .llllU' 
 
 •1 70 
 
 •t70 
 
 2!)-837 
 
 -|-.5;i 
 
 + -•7 
 
 +;i(i-i 
 
 ;i-,5 
 
 
 July 
 
 •0!)(t 
 
 ■\-,{) 
 
 •7.>(i 
 
 + J2 
 
 +;;:i 
 
 + 37^.5 
 
 3-0 
 
 
 Aiif-iist .. 
 
 ' -KIO 
 
 •3i» 1 
 
 •Sli.l 
 
 + .V_' 
 
 +21 
 
 +'i7^() 
 
 2-8 
 
 
 Slplrllilltl' 
 
 •270 
 
 • t.JI) 
 
 •87(i 
 
 + 1.; 
 
 + 1 
 
 + 2Wi 
 
 3-1 
 
 
 Oi'liilicr .. 
 
 •200 
 
 •300 
 
 •877 
 
 + 2(i 
 
 — 22 
 
 + .;-3 
 
 1-!) 
 
 
 Niivcmlicr 
 
 I -r.'jo 
 
 •(i30 
 
 300!»7 
 
 + 10 
 
 — !(") 
 
 -r.->-2 
 
 1-8 
 
 
 l)fc'c'iiili( r ., 
 
 ■810 
 
 •m) 
 
 •0H» 
 
 +11 
 
 -It 
 
 —200 
 
 3-;5 
 
 
 lS.->2. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 JaiHiary . . . , 
 
 ' •()0() 
 
 •280 
 
 2» 8H 
 
 + « 
 
 -r,[ 
 
 -27-3 
 
 3-1. 
 
 
 I'cliniarv 
 
 310110 
 
 •070 
 
 '111 
 
 - 1 
 
 -17 
 
 —2,5 8 
 
 3^1 
 
 1 
 
 Maicli ■ .. 
 
 ;i 1-000 
 
 •no 
 
 300S-2 
 
 + « 
 
 —.52 
 
 -•28 1 
 
 20 
 
 1 
 
 April 
 
 ! .JO- 130 
 
 •.VJO 
 
 •llli 
 
 + 31 
 
 — 38 
 
 - M 
 
 2,5 
 
 I 
 
 May .. .. 
 
 ; •2.>o 
 
 •(100 
 
 2!).!)87 
 
 +37 
 
 -•J.5 
 
 + 102 
 
 2(1 
 
 
 Juno 
 
 •100 
 
 •130 
 
 •7<58 
 
 +ol 
 
 + 11 
 
 + 31 '.5 
 
 3-1 
 
 
 July 
 
 I -000 
 
 •370 
 
 •74!) 
 
 +;52 
 
 +30 
 
 -i-3()7 
 
 2-0 
 
 
 Au)>iist .. 
 
 i -170 
 
 • 100 
 
 •81(j 
 
 + .52 
 
 + 1!) 
 
 + 33-2 
 
 2^{) 
 
 
 .Si'pU'iiibt'i' . . 
 
 1 •lOO 
 
 •070 
 
 •78,5 
 
 +38 
 
 - t 
 
 +-20-1 
 
 30 
 
 
 OcUllllT .. 
 
 •300 
 
 •no 
 
 •!)8(» 
 
 + 1(1 
 
 -33 
 
 — ;j^(i 
 
 2-2 
 
 
 NoviMiibcr 
 
 •()80 
 
 •1(10 
 
 •!)78 
 
 + !' 
 
 -13 
 
 -!(i-.5 
 
 3-1 
 
 
 Di ci'iubor . , 
 
 •()70 
 
 28-!)70 
 
 •!»li 
 
 - i 
 
 -18 
 
 -2(M 
 
 3-7 
 
 
 18,l;3. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Jaiuiarv .. .. 30'120 
 
 2n'180 
 
 29718 , 
 
 -1() 
 
 — ((.5 
 
 — 13-87 
 
 4-0,5 
 
 
 rfbnia'ry . . ' '.580 
 
 •K)0 
 
 30(»,58 ' 
 
 -13 
 
 — ill 
 
 — 38^50 
 
 2 -,50 
 
 
 March . . . . j 'T'iO 
 
 •.510 
 
 •01-8 
 
 + 17 
 
 -58 
 
 -2,5- t 
 
 2-30 
 
 
 ■^i:- 
 
 
 
 
 !■ 'H. 
 
 t 
 
f 
 
 CAPTAIN iC'CLURE's 
 
 DESPATCHES. 
 
 
 % 
 
 YEARLY 
 
 t 
 
 ABSTRACT. 
 
 
 ^raxiiinini 
 ^liiiiiiuini 
 Mean 
 
 18.10. 
 I'laroniptcr, 
 
 . .'5()'fM0 
 . 2!)-l()0 
 . 2i»-82S 
 
 
 
 18.12. 
 IV-iromctcr. 
 Maximum 
 Mininuim 
 :^lcau 
 
 .■51-000 
 . 2S-<»70 
 . 2!) !!()(; 
 
 Masinuiiu 
 Mininuini 
 M«an 
 
 Air. 
 
 + ;> 
 — 10 
 
 1 
 
 Air. 
 Maxinwim 
 
 Minimimi 
 
 Mean 
 
 . -1- ()•()", 
 
 Maxiniuni 
 Minimum 
 Mean 
 
 18.11. 
 
 Bai'dnirlcr. 
 
 . .'jo-r.io 
 
 , 29-0:i0 
 . 2f)-!».'ll' 
 
 
 
 is.i;). 
 
 Haronu'tor. 
 Mnximnni 
 Minimum 
 Mean 
 
 .10-72 
 . 2!)-lS0 
 . I'ft'OOO 
 
 Air. 
 
 Maximum 
 Miiiinnnn 
 Mean 
 
 ! Air. 
 
 + ''>'2.-0 Maximum .. .. +17 
 
 — ■>^'^ . Miniiiunn .. .. — (>■'> 
 
 + ^-'>^ Mean — y.V!»2 
 
 ROBERT M'CLURE, (^omniamler. 
 
 Although this pamphlet only professes to give the dospatehes of 
 Captain M'Clure, it is thought that a hrief narrative of the oiionm- 
 stances which led to a knowledge of the ])o,sition of the liivrsiif/fr/or, 
 and to the despatches of ('aptain IM'Clme heing brought home, will he 
 interesting to some readers, who may not have had an opjiortunity of 
 seeing all the particulars which have, from time to time, been niAde 
 public. 
 
 It may be remembered that Captain Collinson, in tlie Enterprise, 
 having the Inresf.iffcttor under his command, sailed from Woolwich on 
 the 10th of January, 1 «.")(), and from Plymouth on the 20th of the 
 same mouth. They parted company soon after leaving England, and 
 met again in the Straits of Magellan. After getting tlirough the Straits, 
 they expcriexiced heavy "-cather, again parted conijjany, and since that 
 time have never met. The Investigator arrived at the Sandwich Islands 
 on the 1st of July, the Enterprise having sailed on the morning of the 
 same day. Captain M'Clnre sailed again on the 4th, and, with the 
 wind invariably in their favour, made a surprising passhge to Behring's 
 Straits. After communicating with the Herald, Captain Kellett, off 
 Cape Lisbourne, and exchanging signals with the Plover, the Investi- 
 
+•■ 
 
 NOUTII-WKST P.\SSA(5K. 
 
 17 
 
 yalor pursued her course easterly, along the north coast of North 
 America, and passed Point IJarrow, under press of sail, on the oth of 
 August ; since which time, nothing had heen iieard of her until the 
 arrival of Lieutenant Gurney Crcsswcll, on the Ith of October, 1853, 
 with despatches from Captain JM'Clure. 
 
 Tiic despatch deposited hy Captain ]M'(.;hu'e at Winter Harbour, 
 Melville Island (as narrated page 3"), was discovered by Lieutenant 
 Mecham and his party, of the ship Itesolufe, Captain Kellett. The 
 Resolute, together with the steamer Intrepid, by which she was accom- 
 panied, forms part of the scpiadron under Sir Edward Belcher, com- 
 missioned with the arduous duty of searching for Sir John Franklin. 
 
 In August, 18") 2, this scpiadron was at Beechey Island;* and 
 arrangements being completed, on the 1 1th of August Sir Edward, in 
 the Assistance, accompanied hy the Pioneer steamer, proceeded up 
 "Wellington Channel, On the following day, ('u})tuin Kellett took 
 his departure westerly, leaving the North Star, Captain Pullen, witli 
 stores at J'eechy Island, and, after some narrow escapes, reached 
 Melville Island, in a hay of which (Bridjjort Inlet) he was frozen up 
 on the 1 1th of September following. It was not long after his being 
 thus lixed in winter quarters, that the discovery of Captain M'Clure's 
 despatches occurred; but until March, 18").'), no attempt could, with 
 prudence, be made to visit him at !Mercy Bay. 
 
 The following extracts from a letter, written by Captain Kellett, will 
 be read with much interest. After describing his passage from Beechey 
 to ]Melville kland, also the jdace selected in the latter for wintering in, 
 and the despatching of parties \i\ various directions to form depots of 
 provisions, he says : 
 
 "Lieutenant Mecham, on his return titroughWinter Harbour, visited 
 the sandstone, and found on it a record lett by Captain M'Clure in 
 May last, with a chart of his discoveries. I think you will read 
 with interest his despatches, and will exclaim, as I did, when you come 
 to this paragraph, ' Any attempt to send succour would ordy be to 
 increase the evil,' — what a noLle fellow ! As you may suj)i)ose, I was 
 annoyed at not finding this record myself when at AVinter Harbour. 
 Not that I could have done anything. The Strait was too much broken 
 uj) to attempt to communicate with sledges ; no boat navigation prac- 
 ticable at that season on account of young ice, and r.ot open enoiigli for 
 ships. It is beautiful to see how' exactly M'Clure has completed all 
 that was left 1)\ Austin and llae, and how exactly their work joins. 
 
 " M'Clure has actually discovered the North'iFest Passage. Some- 
 thiny in the annals of our country ; achieved by the industrious perse- 
 verance of one of her own officers, who, I hope, will he considered 
 worthy, and receive marks of high distinction. You should write this 
 circumstance in red letter in your record. To this expedition is still 
 left a fine field. I hope we may be able to make our efforts, too, worthy 
 of a red letter record." 
 
 After describing the way in which the winter months had been passed 
 I)y the ship's company, a*nd giving particulars of the various exploring 
 parties about to be despatched, he proceeds : 
 
 "On the morning of the 10th of March, calm and fine, temiierature 
 
 « liccclipy Island is a very small island to the north-west of Ciiiu' Ililcy ; 
 small lor llie scale of our map. 
 
 too 
 
 1' 
 
 f: 
 
 
 
 ■ A 
 
 i'* 
 
 14 
 
 
 t' 
 
 ^J 
 
18 
 
 NOIITI r-\VKST I'ASSAi; K 
 
 vcrv low — 50\ Lioulonant I'im and Doctor Donivillc, nine men and 
 
 tl 1)V Mr. Hoclic and t( 
 
 left tor Banks' Land. 
 
 SIX (logs, assistt 
 
 Three miles IVorn the ship, Pini's sledge broke down ; sent hiin on with 
 auollier, which also proving; weak, he sent the dogs hack for another. 
 He encamped within about eight miles of the ship. A fnrious northerly 
 gale came on during the night, which detained them in their tents for 
 ibnr days. This was the earliest, and with the lowest temperature that 
 travelling has been atti'm])ted in these regions before. I communicated 
 with them on the fourth day ; —all well. No accident of consequence ; a 
 nipped finger, face, or car, the greatest. On the 14th they made 
 another start, assisted as far as Point llearne by a 10-man sledge. 
 Dogs doing wonders. One man sent back, another went on in his 
 ])lace. The weather continuing beautifully fine and mild: temperature 
 zero. 
 
 " l!)th Aj)iil, ]Sr»l{. This is really a red letter day in my voyage, and 
 iliall lie kept as a holiday by my heirs and successors for ever. At 
 nine o'clock of this day our look-ont man made the signal for a [larty 
 coming in from the westward. All went out to meet them and assist 
 them in. A second party was thin seen. Doctor Domvillc was the 
 first ])erson I met. 1 catmot describe to you my feelings when he told 
 me that Caplain M'Cline was (tmonyst. the next partij. I was not long 
 in roachini' him, and {"ivin"' him manv heartv shakes. No i)urer were 
 ever given l)y two men in the worltl. 
 
 "M'C.'hue looks well, but is very hungry. His description of Pirn's 
 reaching the Harbour of Mercy would have l)oen a fine subject for the 
 pen of Captain Marryatt, were he alive. 
 
 " ^['Clure and his First Lieutenant were walking on the floe. Seeing 
 a person C!)ining very fast towards them, they supposed he was chased 
 by a bear, or had seen a bear, and they walked towards him. On 
 getting within a hundred yards they could see from his proportions 
 tiiat he was not one of tliem. Pim began to screech and throw up his 
 hands, his face as black as your hat. This brought the captain and 
 lieutenant to a stand, as they could not hear sufficiently to make out 
 his language. He was a consideral)Ie way ahead of his sledge -a 
 solitary man, and that man as black as Old Nick. M'Clure says he 
 woidd have lin-ned and run if he had seen a tail or a cloven foot. At 
 length Pim reached the party, quite Ijeside himself. Stammered 
 out, (on M't'iure asking him, Who are you, and where are you come 
 from ?') ' Lieutenant Pim — //eraW— Ca{)tain Kellett.' Tiiis was the 
 more inexplicable to ]M'C"lure, as I was the last person he shook hands 
 with in IJehring Strait. lie at length found that the solitary stranger 
 was a true Knglishman ; an angel of light he says. lie soon was seen 
 from the ship. They had only one hatchway open. The crew were 
 fiiirly jammed there in their endeavour to get up, to see — they did not 
 know what. The sick jumped out of their hammocks, and the crew 
 forgot their despondency; in fact, all was changed on board the Jnvesti- 
 f/ator. One man had unfortunately died, by accidentally poisoning him- 
 self, the morning of Pim's reaching here, (Jn the loth of April 
 jNI'Clurc had thirty men and three officers fully pre))ared to leave for the 
 depot at Point Spencer. Wliat a disapj)ointinent it would have been 
 to them to find the miserable Mary yacht, and four or five casks of 
 ])rovisi()ns, instead of a fine large depot. Another party of seven were 
 to have gone by M'Kenzic, with a request to the Admiralty to send out 
 
J '« 
 
 NOHTH-WF.ST PASSAUK. 
 
 -1f» 
 
 a ship to meet liim at Port Leo))o]d in I8;")4. The thirty men are on 
 their way over to me now. I shall, if possible, send them on to liecchoy 
 Island, wifli jihout ten men of my own crew ; to he taken home the 
 first oftportnnity. 
 
 "Tlie seven remain by the ship, hwestiyiitor will now have thirty-five 
 men, officers, and all. I must stay here myself another winter, if In- 
 vesHgator docs not break out this year. But Intrepid will go, jdease 
 God, direct to England, with half Investigator'' s crew, and the portion 
 of mine sent to Beechey Island." 
 
 •' 2nd May. Investigator s second party, consisting of Lieutenant 
 ('rcssuell, Wyiniiatt, Mr. Piers, and Mr. Miertsching, arrived, bringing 
 two nicn on tlieir sledge. They made an extraordinary passage across 
 for »;ien in their state. The greater part of them arc affected with 
 scurvy, but are rai)i(]Iy improving. 
 
 "I have given M'( lure, who hr.s been with me for fourteen days, 
 orders to desert his ship if the medical officers are of opinion they 
 cannot stand another winter, or if there arc not twenty volunteers to 
 remain. M'Cu'.'' ■ ; eaj)ital heidth. I cannot explain to you my 
 feelings on shaki;: • a ,i!s with him. You will find from his des])atch, 
 his, on PinTs nietlnii; him on the floe. I thouu-ht I had the best officers 
 the navy could produce in the Herald. My present are certainly their 
 equals. Notliiug can exceed their zeal. My only duty has been to 
 restrain within pro[)er limits, and to direct it." 
 
 Her Mdjestifs Steamship P/ifjenix, off' Thniso, Odohcr 4. 
 
 Sin, — I have the honour to report to you, for the information of my 
 Lords Connnissioners of the Admiralty, my arrival from the Arctic 
 regions, bringing with me the impoitant intelligence of the safety of 
 the Investigator, and the discovery of the North-West Passage, though, 
 unhapjiilv, without finding the slightest traces of the missing expe- 
 dition, eitlier by tliis route, or on tlic field of search occupied by the 
 squadron under Sir Edward Iklcher's command. 
 
 I am the bearer of despatches from that ofificor and Captain Kellett ; 
 and Lieut. Cresswell, of the Investigator, whom I appointed from the 
 North Star as supernumerary to this ship, is charged with the letters 
 and journals of Commander M'Clure, 
 
 By the Diligence their lordships will have been informed of my 
 proceedings up to the time of my arrival at Disco.* I will, therefore, 
 now briefly state what we have since done, and then, in obedience to 
 the fifth clause of their lordshii)s' orders, relate what information I have 
 obtained with reference to the expedition, and the discoveries which 
 have been made. 
 
 On leaving Disco I proceeded, with the Breadalbnne in tow, to 
 IJpernavik, there to obtain dogs, and to communicate with the Inspec- 
 tor of North Greenland concerning the dis))osal of tlie Rose of Hull. 
 On the afternoon of the 1 1th of July we reached this jdace, and the 
 ships heading off while I landed, in two hours we proceeded up tlie 
 coast. 
 
 The following day, passing Cape Shakleton in a calm, I took advan- 
 
 • Disco Isliind is otVtlip coast of Ciroenlniid, ja=t beyond tlip limit of tlie accom- 
 panying map. 
 
 1> 
 
 ' 
 
CiO 
 
 N()RTI1-WI->T PASSAOK. 
 
 taj:;e of tl»c fine weather to obtain some looms from the Rookery for 
 the u.*e of the Arctic sliips, and iu three hours we obtained a siiiiieient 
 quantity to give each ot ur own vessels a day's fresh meat, reserving 
 enough to suj)ply the jSurth Stars crew with provisions for ten days, 
 independent of the sheep we brought from Ireland. 
 
 On the IGth of July we entered Melvili^ Bay, and found it ))aeked 
 with ice, in some places very heavy, from recent pressure, and the land 
 floe unfortunately broken away, thus depriving us of the advantage of 
 its edge for docking the vessels, in case of a threatened nip. 
 
 On th*. 1 Ith of July, owing to damage sustained in the ice, it became 
 necessary to shift the screw, and this was dii... while beset amonu; iieavy 
 floes, almost out of sight of land. From the mast-head no land could 
 be seen at mid-day, or, indeed, any water Imt the pool in which the 
 ships were afloat, i)uf at midnight we ])roceeded filong a narrow lane 
 which opened away to the nortliward. 
 
 Tliick fogs and southerly winds, which closed the ice up, j)revented 
 our getting through Melville iJay till the 'J.")th of July, when we 
 stretched away from Cape York for Cape Warrender. Fog prevented 
 our taking observations while crossing over, and experiencing a strong 
 southerly set we found, on the weather clearing, that the sbij) was 
 within two miles of Cape Liverpool, though we had steered for Cape 
 Warrender with (Iv.e allowance for currents. 
 
 lleaching over to the north shore (which we then kept close on 
 board), we steered up Lancaster Sound, passing large floes which were 
 driving to the westward. 
 
 On the morning of the 29th of July we found a barrier of ice stretch- 
 i.ig from shore to shore, and which evidently had never b'oken away 
 this season. We followed its edge for several )>iiles, iu the hope of find- 
 ing a lane through, but were eventually obliged to bear up for Dundas 
 Harbour (iu Croker Bay), there to await a change. 
 
 Iu coasting towards this anchorage we were surprised at beholding 
 several teuts pitched on a point six miles to the westward of Cape 
 Warrender, but shortly found them to be the habitations of a party of 
 Esquimaux, who had come over from I'ond IJay. Among these people 
 I found many preserved meat and potato tins, the former bearing Mr. 
 Goldner's name, candle-boxes, somes[)ars, and other Government stores, 
 which led me to fear that they had visited the depot at Wollaston 
 Island. 
 
 In Dundas ILubour we lay for eight days, anxiously awaiting the 
 breaking uj) of the ice; and on the Gth of Au!;ust, hoping that I might 
 be able to examine, and if necessary remove, the stores from Wollaston 
 Islf nd, we got under way aud stretched across iu that direction; but 
 heavy hummocky ice prevented our even sighting it, and we were 
 forced to bear up again for the north shore. IJy this time a light 
 uorth-westerly wind had eased ofl' the ice, aiul I determined to push 
 on as far as practicable under steam. The wind holding for forty-eight 
 hours, we were fortunate enough to reach Beechey Island on the 8th of 
 August. In many cases the ice opened just as we reached a block, 
 which would otherwise have stopped our [)rogi'ess ; and we were told 
 by the oflicers of the North Star that no water was to be seen from 
 Cape Riley the day before we arrived. Thus their lordships will ]u v- 
 eive that no time w<!s lost in reaching our destination. 
 
NDliril-WIOSl PASSA.iK. 
 
 51 
 
 During my stay at Port Dimdns (which is i.ninedintely under the 
 diffs forming Cape Warrender), I ordered a larjie cairn to he huilt on 
 a remnrkahle rocky peninsula at its entrance. Tliis cairn is upwards 
 of H) feet in height, LM) feet in circumference, and painted red with a 
 whito cross. Its position is such that a vessel sighting Cape Warren- 
 der must perceive it, and as nearly all the whalers every year sight this 
 caj)e, I conceived it to be an admirable j)Osition (should their lordships 
 desire it send any despatches to Sir Edward Belcher next year hy the 
 whalers) ''or these (lesj)atches to be deposited. 
 
 Erebus i.iid Terror Bay being full of heavy hammocky ice, of great 
 thickness, impervious to the saw or the blasting cartridge, and too 
 rough and too much inundated with deej) fresh-water jjooIs to admit 
 the possibility of landing the stores on Bcechey Island, or putting them 
 on board the North Star (a mile and a half distant), according to my 
 orders. 
 
 I had, therefore, no choice but to place them in what I deemed the 
 most convenient and practicable position, and in my capacity as senior 
 officer at Beechey Island, determined on Cape Riley as the fittest spot, 
 and even more accessil)le than the island. 
 
 Accordingly, on tiie following morning we commenced our work, and 
 having secured the transport in a bight of the land ice, inniiediately 
 al)reast of the steep cliff, the people were now set to work, watch and 
 watch, night and day. To expedite the service, I ordered all hands to 
 be sent from the North Star, with their hannnocks, and desiring them 
 to be victualled from ( ur ship. The time was thus saved which would 
 have lieen lost by their going and returning to their vessel, upwards of 
 two and a half miles distant. 
 
 The steamer lay with her fires hanked up, and her hav/sers in, ready, 
 at a moment's warning, to take the trans})ort off-shore, in case of the 
 ice closing ; and now, everything being set fi)rward systematically, and 
 l.'U) tons of coal landed in the first thirty hours, I det nined to pro- 
 ceed myself up Wellington Channel, by boat and sledge, in search of 
 Captain Pnllen, who had been absent from the North Star a month ; 
 m\(\, as his provisions must have been expended, there was some appre- 
 hension as to his safety. 
 
 I had the double motive of desiring to convey to Sir Edward Belcher 
 his despatches, as it would only be hj such means he could possibly 
 learn of my arrival until next season, unless he should return to Beechey 
 Island. 
 
 I started in my whale boat, with a month's provisions, at 9 a.m. on 
 the lUth of August, leaving written orders with the First Lieutenant, 
 a copy of which I enclose, marked "M 1," in case of any unforeseen 
 casualty preventing my return to the ship by the time the transport 
 was cleared, to run no risk of the ships being caught for the winter, but 
 to proceed to England without me. 
 
 Wellington Channel was then full of ice, and so rough with large 
 cracks and pools that it defied sledging, exce[)ting with a strong party. 
 Landing, therefore, on Cornwallis Island, a little above Barlow Creek, 
 we made an attempt to carry a small })unt over the ice ; but this proved 
 ineffectual, and I determined at last to proceed with ^Ir. Alston, mate 
 of the North Star, and two men, by land, to Cape Rescue. Each 
 carried a blanket bog, with a fortnight's provisions, and reached, vvith 
 
 \ f1 
 
 ."> 
 
 ??i 
 
 
52 Nonrn-WEST passagk. 
 
 much «^xertion, the Cape, at 5 p.m. of the 13th of August. A })iocc of 
 open 1 ater off Htleii Haven, prevented our proceeding further ; and here 
 we learnt by notice, of Ca in Pullen's return to his shij), and his 
 having communicated with : Edward Belcher. 
 
 Depositing in the cairn di plicates of their lordships' dispatches for 
 that officer, we commenced our return ; and readied tlie tent on tlie litth 
 day of our absence, footsore and much exhausted with this new mode of 
 journeying in the Arctic regions, having travelled I'JO miles ; sleefting 
 without shelter on the bare beach, at a temperature several degrees 
 below freezing point, was a trial for all, more especially as we could not 
 eat the pemmican, and subsisted wholly on biscuit and tea, with the 
 exception of a few dovekies which I shot. 
 
 Up till the 12th of August, Wellington Channel was blocked with ice 
 as far as the eye could reach. The plan marked •' O 1 " shows its 
 position at this date, and the alteration I have made in the coast line of 
 the western shore. 
 
 I returned to the ship on the afternoon of the liHli of August, and 
 found that wind and changes in the ice had obliged the lirst lieutenant 
 to move the transport away tVorn Cajjc Uiley, and that the process of 
 unlading had been carried on but slowly by uieans of sleilges ; H^A) 
 packages had, however, been transported to the North Star hy these 
 means 
 
 On the 17th of August, a heavy gale from the south-east set the ice 
 on to the Cape so suddenly and with such violence that both ships 
 narrowly escaped being lost. The Phwuir was severely nipped, the ice 
 bearing down upon her with such force that the six hauscrs and two 
 cables laid out were snap])ed like paektliroad, and the siiip foreed 
 anrainst the land iee, liltiuij; lier stern five feet, and causiuij everv timber 
 to groan. The hands were tnrn"d \\\i, to be ready in case the ship 
 should break up; though there \_.il(l have bnii small clianee, in sueh 
 an event, of saving a man, as the wind blew so violently, with snow, 
 that it was inipossiljle to face it, and the ice in motion around the ship 
 was l)oiling up in a manner that would have defied getting a safe footing 
 to the most active of our crew. 
 
 Having once more got her alongside the derrick, we commenced to 
 clear with all hands, as I intended to finish the work without cessation, 
 if we laboured all night. 
 
 Wljile thus employed, I received by an official letter from Captain 
 PuUen (a copy of which 1 enclose, marked " L 1,"), a rej)ort of the 
 melancholy intelligence of the death of M. l5cllot, who had been sent 
 by Captain Pulleu on his return during my absence, to acrpiaint me of 
 the same, and to carry on the original despatches to Sir Edward IJelcher. 
 This unfortunate occurrence took place on the night of the <iale, wlien 
 M. Bellot with two men were driven olF from the shore on a floe ; and 
 shortly after, while rcconnoitering from the toj) of a hummock, he was 
 blown off by a violent gust of wind into a deep crack in the ice, and 
 perished by drowning. Tiie two men were saved by a comparative 
 miracle, and, after driving about for thirty hours without food, were 
 enabled to land and rejoiu tiieir fellow-travellers, who gave them pro- 
 visions ; and then all returned to the ship, bringing back in safety the 
 tlespatches, but three of them fit sidijects only for invaiidhig. 
 
 A scparatt! letter will give their lordships' further information relative 
 
NOUiH-WKST I'ASSAUK. 
 
 53 
 
 of 
 i-re 
 his 
 
 tor 
 
 ith 
 
 of 
 
 ing 
 
 to the death of this excellent otHcer, wlio was sincerely regretted by us 
 nil. His zeal, ability, a:id quiet unassuming manner made him, indeed, 
 beloved. 
 
 The ice closing again obliged us to quit Cape Riley before midnight, 
 and, m endeavouring to push the ship into a bight in the land floe, the 
 I'hoenu touched the grouiul ; but came olf again iuimediately without 
 damage. The whole night was spent in struggling to get the ships into 
 a place oi security ; but the ice drove both ves2»'ls fast ^o the westward, 
 when at 3-30 a.m. of the 21st of August, the ice closing all round, both 
 vessels were secured to a tloe edge, but with steam ready to push 
 through the instant the ice should loosen. 
 
 Sho.tly, however, a rapid run of the outer floe to the westward 
 placed the Phwiiix in the most j)erilous position. I ordered the hands 
 to be turned up, not that aught could be done, but to be ready in case 
 of the worst to provide for tlieir safety. The ice, however, easing off, 
 having severely nipped this vessel, })asscd astern t the Breadaldane, 
 which ship either received the pressure less favoui /, or w.is less 
 e(pial to the emergency, for it passed through her starboard bow; ajid 
 in less than fifteen minutes she sunk in thirty fathoms of water, giving 
 tlie ])eople barely time to save themselves, and leaving the wreck of a 
 boat only to mark the spot where the ice had closed over her. Anti i- 
 pnting such a catastrophe, I got over the stern of the P/id'/ii.v, as soon 
 as the trans|)ort was struck, and was beside her when she filled, and 
 can unhesitatingly state that no human power could have saved her. 
 Fortunately, nearly the whole of the Government stores had been 
 landed. 
 
 lla\ing taken on board the shipwrecked crew, every ])reeaution was 
 used with regard to tlie safety of II' . Majesty's steam-vessel ; i)ut it 
 was not till the morning of the 'J2n(i of Aiigusit tliat we succeeded in 
 getting her to a safe j)osition in I'rebiis and Terror 13ay, where the ship 
 was again secured to the land iloe. 
 
 On the 2 Ith of August, (Japtain Inglefield left 13ecehey Island for 
 England; hut .vas shortly forced by a tog to take shelter in a little 
 harbour he discovered, and which iie named Tort (Jrahain. Here he 
 lay during a violent gale from tiie eastward, which, he says, was so 
 furious in its gusts, tliat though the sliij) lay under the lee of a lofty 
 hill, she drove, with two anchors, ahci'd. From the vast bodies of ice 
 driven uj) by the gale, he had a narrow escape from being frozen in for 
 the winter; hut with the aid of steam and sail, he succeeded, on the 
 1st of September, in getting out through a narrow opening, — clearing 
 Lancaster Sound on tlie .'h'd, arriving at Disco on the !)th instant, and 
 at Thurso on the Ith of October.— (Captain Ingletield proceeds to say:) 
 
 At Lieveley I obtained information of a coal mine about 2G miles 
 from the harbour, on the southern shore of the island, and I am told 
 that the coal to be obtained here is in such quantities that a ship might 
 take 1,000 tons. For burning in stoves, it is preferred by the Danes 
 to English coal. I obtained a sutticient quantity of an inferior sort to 
 make trial in our boilers. A copy of the chief engineer's report I 
 enclose, marked" L 7," and I have retained on board four casks of this 
 fuel for thtlr lordships' disposal. 
 
 I have now, in concluding the intelligence gained concerning tlie 
 Arctic searching squadrons, to acquaint their lor(lr;hi{)s of the dangerous 
 
 
 
 •f'l 
 
 <m:\ 
 
 M 
 
64 NORTII-WKST rASSAOK. 
 
 position in which the North Sta, passed the winter. Shortly after I 
 left Becchey Island in my yaclit, the Isabel, in 18")2, a violent grle 
 which I encountered in the Straits drove the North Star on shore, 
 where she remained during the whole winter, and was oidy got off 
 this spring, with nnu^h dirticnlty. 
 
 I omitted to mention that on our return south through Hattin's Bay, 
 we tried for soundings at a spot marked in the track chart, with 'J.S/O 
 fathoms, without getting hottom. The line was upwards of three hours 
 and a half in running out, and the lead employed niore tluni a half 
 hundred weight. — (I'his despatch is siyued " E. A. lN(iLi;iiiii-D, 
 CowDianf/cr.^') 
 
 The following letter, from Rear-Admiral W. E. Parry, copied from 
 the Times of Novemhor !)th, gives an interesting sketch of the proceed- 
 ings (f Lieutenant Cresswell, of the Iiirestii/nfor, the l)earer of Cajitiiin 
 M 'Clare's despatches, from the time he left his ship in Mercy J»ay 
 until he arrived in England : — • 
 
 Before Captain M'Clure left the Inrestif/ator for ^lelville Island, lie 
 arranged for Lieutenant Gurney Cresswell to follow with the more 
 sickly part of the crew. The ])arty consisteil of Mr. Wynniett (mate, 
 now lieutenant, invalided home), Mr. I'icra (assistant-surgeon), Mr. 
 Miertsching (Kscpiimaux inter])reter), and 'J 1 petty oiHcers, marines, 
 and sean:en. 
 
 April Iwth, at it.'M) a.m. — They left the sliip, the remaining part of 
 the officers and ship's company giving them three hearty cheers. There 
 was one sick man on the sledge from the time tliey left the ship until 
 their arrival at the Resolute. The wind blew strong from the west- 
 ward, with snowdrift ; hut, as all the rct^uisite arrangements had been 
 made for their start. Lieutenant Cresswell did not postpone it. At 
 6 p.m. they sighted the eastern land of the hay, and found by it that 
 they had made a good course. Shortly after leaving the ship, Corporal 
 Farcpdiarson and Jose})h Tacey broke down, and were obliged to fall 
 out of the drag roj)es — the former having pains in the chest, the latter 
 suffering from a tail shortly before leaving the hwestiyator. They 
 encamped on Point Back, about ten miles from the ship. On tiie Kith 
 they started at G a.m., but travelling proved veiy heavy, and the men 
 already showed signs of weakness. The l/tli they roiuided Cajie 
 Hamilton. The ice had been thrown up by tremendous external pres- 
 sure, between which and the laud they had to drag the sledges. To 
 accomplish this they were obliged to double-man the sledges —taking 
 two over at a time. As soon as they found a chance of pushing their 
 way through 'he hummocky barrier that lined the shore, they struck 
 ofl' on to the sea-ice, and encamped about two nulcs from the laiul. 
 
 A])ril '22nd. — They sighted Melville Island. Their daily journeys 
 varied ; scinetimes the sun gave them a look to cheer them on their 
 way, br.t, generally speaking, the weather was gloomy ; the men suffer- 
 ing from weakness and fatigue, and the difficulty of drawing the sledges 
 increasing from day to day. The ice was extremely rough and hum- 
 mocky. One day they came upon a large field of ice, from which the 
 vtind had blown away the snow, and the weight of the sledges appeared 
 comparatively nothing. They were passing rapidly along, when one 
 r.aan was found to be missing. It was a poor fellow who had showed 
 symptoms of mental imbecility, but until then liad travelled with the 
 
 ■♦ 
 
 :; 
 
NOIl'lH-WKST I'ASSAOE. r).") 
 
 rest. The detention was grievous, hut unavoidahle. They sent hack 
 to search for him. and found him in a pond of nu'lted snow. From 
 that time great (htHoulty was experienced in getting him along. lie 
 was always throwing hiuiself on the snow to lie down They dared not 
 ])ut him on one of the sledges, as already the weight was groat enough 
 for their enfeelded party, witii one man totally unahle to walk and their 
 needful haggage, 
 
 Ap.ril 'MH\\. — At (i.lU) a.m., just as they were heginning their day's 
 march, two men were seen coming towards the tents from the eastward. 
 They proved to he Mr. Pirn and a seaman, witli a sledge and dogs ; he 
 had heen sent out hy Ciiptain Kellett to assist them in, and lanil some 
 stores in Winter llarhour. He was nmcli surprised to find this party 
 so far advanced in their journey. Lieutenant Cresswell wished him to 
 land the things, as they did not retpnre any immediate assistance. At 
 this time CMiarles Anderson, l)eing umible to widk any further, was taken 
 on the sledge. Notwithstanding this extra weight, they made excellent 
 progress, the men being in high spirits on the strength of being so near 
 the Resolute. 
 
 May 2nd. — They started at 1 1 p.m., and arrived on hoard the lleso- 
 hite at 1 a.m. on tlie following day. Captain Kellett and M'Clure met 
 them on the floe, ('ajitain Kellett gave them the heartiest welcome. The 
 journey from the Iniestujator was made in IG days, the distance 1/0 
 miles. 
 
 The day following (May -1) (,'aptain M'Clure set off on his return to 
 liis ship, and was aceomj>anicd by the surgeon of the Resolute, with 
 instructions to examine into the health of the crew ; Cai)t!\in Kellett, 
 as senior ofHcer, having determined that, if 20 able-bodied men volun- 
 teered to reiuain with Captain M'(Jlure, that dauntless officer should be 
 at liberty to stay by j»is ship and attempt to bring her through, should 
 the season render it possible. 
 
 It was Captain Kellett's strenuous wish that a party of the Invesli- 
 ffufors men should go on to the North Star, at IJeechey Island ; but 
 as, out of 24, only two were not affected with scurvy, he was obliged to 
 al)andon the design, (.'aptaiii Kellett placed the Inrestiyators de- 
 spatches in the hand of Lieutenant Cresswell, with directions to proceed 
 to the North Star, in company with Mr. Roche (mate), with a p-'rty 
 of 1 1 men, the boatswain of the Resolute, and Lieutenant Wynniett, of 
 the Invest iffutor. 
 
 On the 13th of May they saw two musk oxen. Lieutenant Cresswell 
 and Mr. Roche w.Mit in pursuit. They wished to have shot only the 
 cow, but, having wounded her, the bull would not let them approach 
 her ; they, therefore, had to shoot him also. The sledge being very 
 heavily laden, they could not take more than the hind-quarters of the 
 cow away with them. Such is arctic life. For 18 months before quit- 
 ting the III vest iffator nearly starved, and now leaving 800 or 900 pounds 
 of excellent fresh beef for the wolves and foxes ! 
 
 On the morniuy; of the '2nd of June thev arrived on board the North 
 Star, Captain PuUen, at lieeehey Island. The jcurney was 300 miles, 
 and had occupied four weeks to accomplish. 
 
 On the 8th of August the Phoenix arrived, conunanded by Captain 
 Inglefield. At that time Captain Pullen had been away a mouth from 
 the North Star, to communicate with Sir Edward Belcher. Bv the 
 
 
 
 "^J 
 
SA 
 
 ADVKRTriTMKNTS. 
 
 .( 
 
 time he returned the season wns rnpidly ndvnucing, and the opinion ''•f 
 the tnost ex|toricn('od wns decided that Captain Inglelield, in the Phctnir, 
 •hoiild no longer delay his return home, hy waiting for Sir Edward 
 Belcher's arrival at Jieochev Inland. 
 
 On the 'j;3rd of August tlie Vhcenix left Hecchoy Island. She touched 
 at Disco, at Licvely taking in coaU, and at HoUcsteiuburgh, where they 
 put in, to complete their iistronomicnl ohservatioiis. At both places 
 they met with Escpiimaux, and joined with them in the dance aud song. 
 The women were clean and neat, and i)ccaliarly simple and modest in 
 their conduct. 
 
 On the Ith of October, Captniu Injcleficld and Lieutenant Cresswell 
 landed at Thurso, at the extreme nortli of Scotland. Fifty-three hours' 
 travelling broiiirlit tlieiii to London. On Friday, October 7th, they 
 arrived at the Adinirnlty with tidings that the geographical nncstion of 
 the long sought for Nurtli-West passage had been satisfactorily solved. 
 
 BETTS'S FAMILY ATLAS, 
 
 , OF GKMmAT, AND PlIYSICAI, GEOGnAPlIY, 
 
 1NCI.DDING A COlMOrs INDK.V OK NKARf.Y FIFTY-KIVE THOUSAND NAMKS. 
 
 » • • / *'- 
 
 ~ ■>.-. T : Elegantly but substantiall If Half bound in Turkey Morocco, price 
 - .;"..'".• Three Guineas, 
 
 The Phesident of llm Royai. Gi,o(iiiAiMiirAi. Society, in his annual addresH 
 to the members, in speakinii; of tliis Ati-as, siiys : — "^Ir. Betts has published an 
 Atlas containing some Nkw Featukes, and rendered extremely valuable By a 
 most copious Index comprising nearly .'5i5,000 n.itucs of places. In addition to the 
 latitudes .ind longitudes usually given, there is an arrangement, by reference to 
 which, the situation of any required place can be easily learned, &c,, &c. Several 
 entirely new maps of India, Canada, Polynpsin «ff>., are also iiitroduced." 
 
 The great advantage of the mode of reference alluded tc in th"? foregoing para- 
 graph, and which i^ peculiar to this Index, can only br; fully a})preciated by those 
 who have frequent occasion to consult an Atlas. By means of it, che eye is almost 
 instantaneously diretrted to the point of the map where the name appears, and the 
 whole object is usually accomplished in less time than is necessarily expended in 
 ascertaining the projeclional proportions of a map, preparatory to reference on the 
 old system. 
 
 In the present edition of the Atlas, a large number of new and highly important 
 maps have been introduced (making in all Sixty-four), and the whole Work has 
 undergone a thorough and careful revision. The Maps of England, Wales, 
 Scotland, and Ireland, are on an unusually large scale, and extraordinary care 
 has been exercised in order to exhibit the various lines of Railroad with, minute- 
 ness and accuracy : the Turnpike and principal Cross- roads, Mountains, Rivers,' 
 Canals, &c., are also carefully delineated ; and some idi a of the elaborate character 
 of the work may be inferred from the fact, that the Map of England and Wales a)one 
 contains nearly 9,000 names. 
 
 The Maps of the British Col <i e also on a large scale ; and a continuous 
 
 care will be maintained to intro . new discoveries and setdements as they may 
 
 occur ; and the proprietor feels < < : , lliat no work of the kind, either as respects 
 price or quality, will be found inort .it-..crving of public favour. 
 
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