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.CAPT. M'CLURE'S DESPATCHES

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; 1853.

[Price^ with Map, Ninepence.]

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LONDON :

PRINTED IIY WILLIAM TYLEK,

BOLT-tOliKT, ILKET-STUKEV.

JUL - 7 192*

V^Miiiili'iil-iiil-

iMMaMMpaMM

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i^'^K'^

TIIK N()KTiJ-\VE8T I'ASSAdE.

I'Uii'Aiv vi'ci iii.'i,'>; ni.'iii'A rniiix

KISSIA, TURKEY, AND PERSIA.

Ju^t published, price, coloured, Ninepence ; or, folded
in cover. One Shilling.

A MAP, eiiibnclng the greater part of Turkey in
Europe and Asia, the Black Sea, with the South of
Hussia, Circassia, and part of Persia.

Price Ninepence, coloured,
A beautiful MAP of TURKEY in EUROPE,
divided into its various provinces, and well adapted
for reference with respect to the present hostilities.

n low IJL'ilt'II, «J)JlilICiiti_y oiitii^tv., i.<iui..>i>^ «.^.,^ - .

thcr again liaving becoint- thick, \vc went entirely by our soin.ulinga,
which varied from 1 \ to 7;^ fathoms ; in wliicb lattoi' wo rounded I'oint
Barrow at 1 1.30 p.m., without, however, ohserving the land, and
steered to the eastward, direct for IJanks's Land, tindinj!; that the ice
was suificiently loose and practicable for sailing through. These hoj)cs
were soon, however, dissi[)aled ; foi" on llie hirenoon of the (>th it
suddenly cleared, when I found that we bad \k)\\ runuinu; directly into
tiu^ pack, wbifh wa;i very luavy and iui)icii< trublo, rxteudinti; from
S.E. to S.W. (bv the north), m lat. 71" ;i;V ;n^ and long. i;.;V'l2' W.

jv 2

«»»t!'"«!'MPV.*>VK>-l«ii;

~1II

TiiK Noirni-WKST rAssAci:.

CAriAlN M'CUIKKS DIWrAK'IIKS.

till i]/(i/i\h/.> />/,siiiiriif S/iip, /iHi'Khi/dhii , iijl I'miH Willi' I,, I'l'lit

Sill, /iiiiiii'ii 'iMh, is.'io, III III/. r,<i' I;;' ,V . 'onii i;ii .vr '/.

Sii{, I liiivc llic liiiiioin (o I'l'iiort to ynii, (m tin* iiiluniiiitioii nl'
<lic l.unls ('oiiiiiiissioiRMs (if (lie Ailiiiiriilly, that wv iiirivtd .til' the
.M;i('U('H/ic oil till- 'Jlst iiisliiiit, 'I'lic li'ltcrs (lull I rorwiii'i'til by IKt
Miijcsty's ship, llirnhf, IVoiii whom 1 parted nini]miiy on iIk; ;!()tli
ultimo, oil' ('ii|i(' l-ishiinic, will liiivi- put you in |ios.s('ssioii of my
procfcdiiins lip to thill (lute.

Alter parliiij; willi the Ucviihl \ stood to lln X.X.W. with .i i'rosli
liree/e iVom the N'.l),, witli the intention ot making' the ire, uhicli
was aeeomplisheil on the nioininjiot' the 'Jntl ot' Anj^iist, in lat. 7^' '21' N.,
loiitr. Hid'- I J' W., and at II a.m. stood iitto the loose ice fur the
purpose oi' exaininin!;' the pack ; the wind, however, i'alliiij^ iK'iore we
i;o| far in, I was imlnced to rnn ont to avoid heinj; lieset, havini; ascer-
tained th.'it the i)ack was very close and lieavy, extending!; I'roin I'l.N.K.
to W.X.W., arid, seein;j, no hope of i!;ettin;i; throii<j;h, worked aloiijj;
its edge in sonndiiif^s froui 'J I to 2(i tathoms (mud) ; t lie hundreds of
walriisscs that were lyiiifi,' upon the ice, thickly huddled toj^ether like
sheep in a I'old, were most .nslonishinj:'. We continued working alon;^
the ice, ttccasioually getting drilled in, until tlie .")th, when the weather,
which liad been previously thick and misty, cleared a little, and no
ice being in sight, 1 shaped a course for Wainwright's Inlet, with the
intention of getting hetweeu the pack and shore , in running exchanged
numbers with llcr Majesty's shij) J'/oi'cr, and at 1 I. .'it) a.m. observed
a low beach, apparently shingle, distant ai)oiit two miles. The wea-
ther again having become thick, we went entirely by our soundings,
which varied from I 1 to 7'>i fathoms ; in which latter we rounded I'oint
Barrow at W.'M) p.m., without, however, observing the land, and
steered to the eastward, direct for IJanks's Land, tinding that the ice
was snthcicntly loose .and practicable for sailing through. These hojics
were soon, however, dissipated ; for on tlie lorenoon of the (ith it
stiddenly cleared, when 1 found that we had bo -n runniitg directly into
the pack, which wa^ very heavy and inipein trublo, extending from
S.E, to IS.W. (by the north), m hit. 71 .'>5' N and louij-. lx> \2' W.

A 2

4 (AriAiN MH'i,n;i;"L-i iii':U'AH-'iii;y.

i\\u\ (111' Hfu lliicnyli wliifli \\i' li;ul conic lonkiiii;' marly ii-. v.iiiti' -.v,
tliu ioi' iiluMil, iMijil lliiU liuii'.s nf uatiT ucri' obscrvaMc. Wc
iii.'tiuiilv liaiilril !<•• till' wind, and (•iMiniiciiic.l wnrKiiiL' oul. Dmiii;';
till- niul'il tlir lirn/'.' lVi:-lu'iH'il roiisiiii ralily, In iiiuiii.^ sluiwi'i.'s of rain
\\\\\i tiiiik v.iaMiii', wluii' 1 liiiu; >(".iijuHtil i> it.M'v a yw^n of i.iiivass
tliroiidi viTV lii'avy aiu! clor^i' sai'.ii;.;- ii'i' ri'iiikriil tlii' iia\ ii;a(i<ai
I Atiiiiiclv i-ritical. 'Ilu' vi'Siirl oi'fasioiially slriirk nidi sonii' viokiicr.
'i'iiis ((Mitiiiiii'd lill llii' al'liTiioou of llir 7lli, wliiii cli'ar wafiT was
ii'porli'd iVoiii till' ('iow's-iii'>(. Till' wind aiinosl iMrincdiali'ly I'ailini',
till' l)oa(s Will' all uiaiintd. and (owiu:; rtniiuu'iiv'rd amid ^011:4-5 and
rliriTs, wliirli ronliimi'd wilii iii'.a.kalid ;ri>i)d liiiinMiir ior si\ lionr.-,
will n (lu'ir lai)oiii>iis woik was liion_i;lil tu a surcissl'ttl ifniiiiwition ;
being in |»i'rt'< illy rloar water in .Sniitli'ii iJay, a li;.i,li( air sjirin^in;;' n|i,
wi' wurkrd to tlio raslward.

At 2 a.m. of tlif Sl.li, brinii; olf Point Dii'W, .■^iiit ^Ii'. Cinut (sicond
inaistcr), oil nIioit to vwi'\ a rairii, and luiiy a i:;itiii' of onr liaxiii!:;
nasjM'd. Upon k'nidiii;: they wrir rni'l liv tlircc nativis, wko at iirsi
ucrc vrrv tiniiik Iml, in on (■xrliaiiLviiiL:,' simi-i of friend diip, wliiih eiMi-
>>isited of raiNiiej,- tin- .'iiiii- three ti'.ius over the head, they a)i}Ud,ielied
the boat, !-.:uk nfl.'r the jdea-anl >alntalion ol' rnhhini;- no'e.-, became
very eoininniiiealive ; when, liy the as.-ist;ir.ee of oiir invahud'le inter-
jircler, ^Ir. .Mii-r!-; bin:; ihc 'rleelion of this !;enllein;ni lor tlii:,
imjiortant oliiee (k)e:s inlinite credit to the di.-cernniciil of tliuse who
sent him - we t'onnd lie' trilie eoie'i>'led oi ten teiils (ibis luin;;' the
only apjiroaeh to lluir nundiers he e.iiiM olila.in), that tiiey had
.■irrived onlv ihrei' da_\s |ire\ ii.n-ly. iind ;hat ihey liohl coininunieation
with a parte iiilaia!, >viio (lade v.iib \\\y Husaan l''nr ('onipany. 'I'he
eNcniin.!; bet'ore, thev had ol>:.iivtd os, hiit. eoiild not. iniau:iiie whtil
lar!.!;e Irees thev were nioviti,<j^ aboni (oiii inasis), ami .all I he tril)e had
assendiled on lln' beach to look at them, uhen they ai;reed thai il wa-.
soinetbinu; veiy extraordinary, and let'l the three men who im I the i-.oat lo
>\alch. Thev alsd L^axe tiie pleasin;j; intelli;;eiiee thai we shonM fnid open
water aluiii:; the cast, t'roni aliout tliree to ilve miles' ili.-t;mee dnriiii;'
the ^1nlluner ; ihat the liea\y ice \eiy seldom eaiiie in, or never left the
land I'urlher ih;;;; at proeii! ; thai liiey did not know il' there were
any islands t'nrilie',' noi'lli, a,.-> they fome.l i! imjio::.-ii)le lo ^;.i) in their
kyaeks, when in piirsin! of seals, liiriher than one <lay"s j^mrney to
the main iee ; an.i then the laiuo ol' water allowed of their proceediiiL;-
threc-ip.tarti'rs of a day fnrther, which brom;ht them lo v^'ry largo and
high ice, with n't space laumgh in any part of it to idlow thiir kya.eks
to enter ; the prohe.ble distance, Mr. .Mierlsching I hercfore estimates,
iVom his knowU'diM' of the llMjuimaux habits, lo be about U> miles
oil" shore, and fioiu whal 1 have seen o|' the pack, I am inclined to
think this is jierfeetly correct, for a more mibrokeu mass 1 never
witnessed. Thev al^o meiitioned M'cinu; the Itoats with while men iroiiiir
eastward la.-t yi ;ir (winch I suppose was l,K'ii(enaiil i'nllcii), hut had
not .'^ecn any other while persons or anything like this vessel before ;
they had, therefore, no name of snt^icient grandeur to give the great
"omiac," so I'.ey called her the "last-moving' island." ISevcral of
them cr.me oil' to the vessel, but had little lo barter, as all their
luiii'errf were away, but immediately we had been observed they were
sent for, anil would soon arrive. Then, said (hey, '"You will be gone,
and how disappuinteil (hey will be." Tliey apjiear a snn[»]e, kind

])ros

TAPTAFN M*(!r,l ni'.'s IM'-SrATCIirs.

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(' ii!ivii;;ili(iii
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ir Wiitcj- \v;is
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I lie II ilit' hail

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liiil liml (ipcii
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llu'ir Ivyjulvs
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I iiu'liiied to
lass I iievei'
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ve the i^real
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ed they were
will he pint',
iiiiple, kind

pcoplp, very poor, very filthy, nud, to us, hiokod oxcoodinp;ly urctehoil,
'V\w time of our return was repeatodlv inrpured for liy them. Thoy
woidd have a (piantity of skuis ; they were anxious for us to wait "a
little, that they niiglit send oiF a puj(j)ly of reindeer ; hut, the hoat
vetiirninj:;, and the wind fair, I made theui a few presents, and ^ave
llieiu a letter to he forwarded to the Uussiau Fur ('oinpauy, and nia<le
sail to the eastward. The wind heing light as we ran close "along shore,
in from four to six fathoms, we had a great mauy visitors ; manv of
them had heen their whole lives hetweeu the Coppermine and Point
I'arrow. These could give no information of the missing exjiedition.
1 am eerfain that had any of thein reached these shores we uinst have
heanl of it. The coast is inhahited throughoiif, and the natives are,
to all appearance, a kind and merry race, and when we gave them
])reseuts, through the medium of the interpreter, we told them that
we were looking for our lost hrothers, and if they saw any white men
in distress they were to he very kind; to which they assented, hy
saying they would, and give them plenty of "deer's Hesh." AVhife
running along the land, which is exceedingly low, ohserved upon Toint
Pitt two conical mounds ; thinking they might have some communica-
tion huried heneath, ran in to exainine them. ^Vhilc in stavs the
vessel took the ground, but was hove off almost immediately without
any damage, (he bottom being soft clay. The hoat sent to examine
the nu)nnd.s reported thon old Esquimaux caches, where they deposit
their venison. They left a bottle, containing a notice of our passing.

Ifpon rounding Cape llalkett on the morning of the !)t,h, found the
ice was set close to the shore, which rendered it a jiassage of much
anxiety, great labour, and imminent risk, as the wind was strong from
M.S.H., with thick fog, and the ice closing around us fast, so that vvc
had barely space t(* work in, tacking freipuntly in Hve, and never
beyimd ten minutes, standing upon one tack, into three-auda-half
I'athoms, and Jipoti the other to four-and-a-half and six fathoms ; this
operation was continued the greater part of the middle and all the
morning watch. At !) a.m. the weather cleared a little, and open
water was ohserved in Smith's Ihiy ; our simiiding.-i gradually in-
creased ; the reaches became longer as we rounded the cape, and all
apprehension of being forced on shore was over.

August HI. — In crossing Harrison's J'ay found the influence of the
ColvilK- to extend \- or 11 miles, the surface of the water beiii!;'
of a dirty mud colour, and scarcely salt. The weather, thick and
toggy, ))revented any land being seen. The soundings were very ri'gular
on <me tack; the ice allowed of onr standing off to eight fathoms;
anil on the other, the land to thrt'c-aiid-a-half fathoms, black mud.

Aiiiriist 11. — In the mornint; the weather cleared a little, and dis-
covered to us .Jones's Island. An erect jiiece of wood on the shore
attracted the attention of the olllcer of the watch ; a Ixiat was sent to
examine i^ when it ajipeared to be a jiicce of drift wood, which had
been siptee/ed up by the ice. The shore was strewed with il, ami
one spar was as large as our mainmast, and l."» feet in length. We
erected a cairn and left a notice. In the forenoon about thirty natives
came off in two baidars ; from whom we obtained some lish and ducks,
in exchange for a little tobacco. They had been about two nmnths
on the coast, and trade with the Russian Pur Company. Their sur-
prise, of course, was very great, partieul-^rly at the size of our hand-

CAPTAIN* m'cLUKK's DESPATCHES.

kovchiefs (tlie sails) ; the wlink'hoats attrnoted tlu'ir attention, and
they asked if trees u;i'('\v in our cotiutry suificiently larj;e to make
them.. 'I'he head man possessed a gun, with "Harnett, IS 10," upon
the lock ; this he ()l)tained tVom the llussians. As a laii specimen of
tile uhservation ot' these people and their aptitude ibr trade, tlie fol-
lowing may be taken : — Seeing that we cut the tobacco into pieces to
give in exchange for their fish (salmon trout), they began to do the
same with the fish. This, however, wc would not admit, so they were
oI)liged to eonic to in.v terms. Dining the afternoon, while standing
along a low flat island, we observed a Hag (a jjair of sealskin inexpress-
ibles) upon a lofty j)ole, and a number of natives around it ; we stood
for thein, but when the boats were pulling in they appeared to regret
their teiuerit\', for down came the sealskin, and away they ran. Shortly
gaining courage, they returned, and, as we a])proached, arranged
themselves in line uj)on the beach, and connnenced extending their
arms above their heads (typical of friendship), which being answered
from tlie boats, perfectly assured them of our amicable intentions.
Upon landing they evinced a most manly confidence, rubbing noses,
niid embracing most \igurously ; these were very cleanly, so that the
ojicration was not so uu])leasant ;is it otherwise might have been.
Througli the inteiprcler, Air. Miertsehing, we learnt that these jieople
had never Ijefore seen a European, nor had they the smallest article oi
Kuropeau manufaetuve about them (Lieuleaaiit ruUen's boats they
observed lust year, but they were suuie di^tauoe oiV, and coiiseijuently
had no conuuunicatioii). Tiiey live during the summer months upon
these desolate islands, and in the winter retire a short distance on the
mainland tn their wiuiaer residences. Their women and tents were
upon anotlier isliuul. Thev were a line active set of vounu; men,
average height nbniit ll\e feet six iiiehes. Thc^e barter their skins,
X.'e., with a tribe I'uillier west, who, in their turn, do tlu' same with
others, until lluy readi i\iv i'ussian post up(>n the (.olville. To
them I intrnsteil a ik-^pateh fur their Lordships, whieh they pro-
mised most faithfully should be forwarded to the Colville. 1 made
them a few ). resents, also a !)oat's ensign, m eommemoration of the
first man-of-war wimse i'lag has ever floated in these sterile regions.
The magnificei'.ee of the gift they could not for some time com])rehend,
and were loth to toiieli it , but at length the interpreter made them
nndersfand it was sent them by a great chief, and in return they were
to be very kind to all white men they niet, and show it to them ; all
this they promised. The chief then scizeil it iu his arms and ran across
the island to his canoe, followed by the remainder of his tribe, and
no doubt hurried with the joyful tidings to ttii' women. AVe lind a
westerly set whieh ))reveiits our making but slight progress, the wind
hanging st) much to the eastward.

On the morning of the 12th four baidars came alongside, containing
the whole eneamjnnent of the tribe we met last night, and also some
that we had .seen two days previously, from whieh it appeared they are
miiiratory ; they l)rought oil' a suj)ply of fish and a (piantity of veni-
son, — but tbi' Ip.tter was in such a state of high jiutreliiction we could
not toncli ii. We ;:l!owe(l most of the men to c(»me on board, and,
although .-.ill .iw.ifc of ibeir knavish ju'opensities, and, ronse(pienllv,
a sharp look-out w;is kcp! upon llieni, llu'y most adroitly managed io
slip b<itb bandies of nnv winch and a small ice anchor into their i)aidar.

ittonlion, mul

nge to iiiiikc

IHIO," uj.oii

r s|K'ciiii(ii (il

Inuli', tlif iol-

iuto picecs to

ail to ilo tlic

so they wore

lilt' staiuliim-

<iii ino.\|.ri'ss-

it ; wo sfooil

10(1 to I'Ogl'Ot

van. Shortly
0(1, anangod
toiuliiig thoir
ing' answorotl
le intentions,
ibbing noses,

, so that the
liavo bcoji.

those jioojtlo
lost artiolo ol
s i>oats thoy

:uiiso(juently
months n|)oi)
stanoo on llic
I tents wore

youni; nu'n,

their skins,
(• Mune with
;olviilo. To
h tlioy pro-
He. 1 made
I'ation of the
■lilo regions.
conij)rehcn(l,

made them
I'n they wore
them J all
id ran aeross
s tribo, and
M'r linda
Ss, tlic wind

', containing
id also some
red they ai(>
tity ol' vciii-
;)n we cnnld
l)oard, and,
>ns('(piontly,
managt'd to
hoir i)ai<lar.

TAfTAlN M'CLl'RE'a l-i;si'.\ IClll'.S. 7

when the fail' sex became the recipients. It was l»y the greatest acci-
dent that the theft was discovered by the end of one handli prolriidini,
from beneath the ample proportions of the lady, who, whon taxed,
innnediately returned the ;tielos, and informed n|)on her husband.
For this immorality the whole boat was exomjttod from receiving any
present. Working to the eastward observed a fow deer upon one of
the low islands, but was prevented sending any boat, as a south east cur-
rent was sotting us into shoal water very fast, so thai ail the boats were
roquired to tow until S p.m., wlion a light air ran us t(t the westward
into six fathoms ; the loose ice was in rapid moliou. and tiie larger Hoc
]»icces, as they ))assed, ai)peare(l to create a current which frequently
turned the vessel completely round against helm and sails, the power of
a two-knot breeze being insidlieiont to connteraet it. On the nujrniug
of the l.'Uh we were enveloped in a dense log, among exceedingly heavy
and <'lose-sailing ice, through wiiieh we attempted to work, but found
tliat endeavouring to avoid one jiiece we ran upon another, striking
oeeasioually with great force, which determined nie to secure to a tloe
until it cleaved. In this we fortunately succeeded, getting one tluit was
grounded in seven fathoms. It was a heavy piece, but not so much so
as many that were about us. I took its height above the water in seven
places, which gave an average of 1 1 feet 1 1 inches ; a pack chiefly
composed of such wouhl l)e too powerful a foe for any ship long to con-
tend against. At S a.m. of the 1 Ith, it having cleared alittle, slipped
from the floe, aad connnoncod workinii' to the eastward among masses
ol n'o. At iD'.SO a.m. observed a shoal just in time to avoid it ; it
was completely hidden from view olV deck, not being as high as the
ice, having a (piantity of driftwood upon it, which is in great abundance
;doiig the coast. At ,"■.'>() p.m. our course was impeded by aiu)ther of
thoe low islands, which had the ice rosliug upon its northern extreme,
uhili- the southern point was flanked by a slioal, whicli connected it
with the island seen in the morning. A\'e wore thus perfectly hemmed
in. The boats were sent to sound, whon Air. Conrt represented a ]>as-
:;!!;<' i)riu'tieable in .'{ fathoms. In runnin<i; thv(m!'h wo unfovtunatelv
Iiil upon a spot with only 21 fatlioms, whieh had escaped observation ;
we bad conse(piently to lighten tiie vessel considerably before slie got
ofl", which, however, was aoecunplished without any damage (the bottom
lieing sand) by 1 1 j).ni., having been ()n shore five hours. I regret to
add, that eleven casks of salt nu-at, which were placed in the first
whale-boat, were lost by her upsetting, lieing oompollod to place the
j.rovisions in the whalers, tlie cutters having I he l»ower anchors in
ibem. This was a serious loss; imleed, an irreparable calamity. As
soon as we were off, it was my wi^h to return by the way we came in,
but we found that the ice had set np(tn ti;e shonl we hail lirsf observed,
.anil cut off our retreat, nnder which circumstances I was obliged to
anchor and wait a change of wind. I'pon the Hith the wind came
slightly from the westward, which sot the ice in motion off the north
point of the island. At !) a.m. weighed and towed to the edge of the
iee, which presented a barrier of aliont ."idlt yards in width between us
and the open water we wished to gel into. We enmmeneed warping at
:>. p.m., and so heavy was the iee ihal it was lutt until S p.m. tliat we
could get tlirough ; it, fell calm, so maili' last to ibe iee tor the night.
Next tnorniiig, the 17lh, a very (biek fog, witb light northeasf wind,
and at 4 a.m. commenced kedging to the eastward, J)nt at 7 a.m. gave

8 CAPTAIN M'CT.URR's PE3PATCITE9.

it up ; the wind fieshcncil, ami unable to see for fog. At 2 p.m. it
c'loared; we slii)|)ed (loni the ioe nnd plied to the north-east amid
heavy steams and lartte Hue pieces, vessel striking violently, hut un-
avoidably against them.

August IH. — Today, from the mast-head, observed the first lane of
open water in the j)ack, extending east and west several miles, but very
narrow. In the evening a fresh bree/.e from the south-west, and almost
simultaneously a slight pitching motion was observed, which is con-
sidered an infallible symptom of open water being near. It was so
foggy that nothing could be seen ; but, notwithstanding, I shaped a
course north-north-west for Banks's Land, thinking that we had
rounded the pack, having coasted it between lOO and ;'»()() miles ; we
continued the greatest part of the night to run without much obstruc-
tion, but upon the following morning, the 19th, our progress was
cheeked by finding that we had run into a deep bight, wliich compelled
us to work back again to the south-east.

August 20. — Before getting clear of this pack, into which we had
penetrated a considerable distance, being decoyed by a few lanes of
open water, we were compelled to run 70 miles south, which placed us
in Int. G9T)()' N. long. l.'iG" AO' W. It is seldom that observations
can be obtained, this being only the sixth set since the .5th of the
month, the fog and mist being more continuous than I ever remember
to have met elsewhere.

August *21. — We have siicceeded in getting again into clear water.
At 1 ]).m. made the IVlly Islands, off the mouth of the Mackenzie;
the coast is, Jiowever, so excessively shoal, that I find it impossible to
reach the main land, which I was very anxious to accomplish, but, nt
the distance of forty miles from it, was obliged to tack in 3 fathoms ;
we passed the line of its tide most distinctly marked about ten miles
further north, the water being the colour of the Thames at Woolwich,
slightly brackish, and its temperatiu'e WS) degrees, the sea, four hours
previously, being 2!S degrees. From what I have observed of the pack,
1 feel convinced that any attempt to reach Banks's Land tbrough it
would only terminate in failure, ami the consequent loss of valuable
time, but by working between its edge and the shore, have confidence
in making a'good advance this season ; it is, therefore, my intention to
pursue the latter method, and, in so doing, deviate from my original
purpose of pushing into the ice, as mentioned in my letter to their
Lordships, dated the li)th of July.

August 2'-*. — Fog during the whole of the night very dense, but,
l-.iving much open water upon the eastern shore from the Mackenzie
towards Cape Batburst, had no difficulty in working along it; in
soundings from four to eight fathoms, — which latter was the extent that
the ice permitted us off sliore. At noon a slight clear discovered to us

cluster of islands, which a very indifferent observation (lat. 09" ,'M'
N., long. I.S.r !)' W.) points out as those of Pelly.

August 2.'i. — A fine clear day, the temperature rising to 40 degrees
at noon. Made the northern extreme of Itichard Island from the mast-
head, and l)y a good observation established our position lat. G9" iil'N.,
long. l.'J.T IS' W., the water towards the shore being perfectly clear of
ite, which agrees with the account given by Sir John Richardson that
the natives observe no ice for two moons ; but these never quit the land
any distance, for were they to extend their excursions JO miles further

n(
T

e>
in

"1
hi

CAPTAIN M'CLTIRE's DFSl'ATCriF.S.

At 2 p.m. it
rth-east amid
iitly, l)ut un-

e first lane of
lilos, hut very
it, and almost
vliich is con-
r. It was so
'„ I shaped a
tl^at wo had
00 miles ; we
luch obstnic-
)iogross was
ch compelled

uch we had
few lanes of
ich placed us
observations
r)th of the
er remember

clear water.

Mackenzie ;
mpossible to
plish, but, nt
3 fathoms ;
ut ten nnles
it Woolwich,
, four hours
of the pack,
d through it

of valuable
e confidence

intention to
my original
tor to their

dense, but,
e Mackenzie
long it; in

extent that
)vered to us
(lat. G9" 'M'

40 degrees
in the mast-
. 69" t'N.,
?tly clear of
xrdson that
nit the land
liles further

north than our position, they would see the pack solid and impenetrable.
This, Iiowever, gives ample space for navigation, the soundings being so
exceedingly regulur that, during the most foggy weather, wo can stand
in shore with tlie most perfect confidetice to 'A\ fathom.s. A whale wiis
seen to day, l)eing only the third since rounding Point IJarrow ; although
upon the day we were off that point seven were counted.

August 'il.- ()l)serve(l huts and natives oif Point Warren. I
hastily close this comnnmication in the b.ope of its reaching their Lord-
ships this year through Fort (tood Hope, as I imagine these people
communicate with the Mackenzie. I have written to the ('ompanv's
officer at the above-mentioned post, to recpiest his exertions in sending
it forward.

In conclusion, it gives me much jtleasure to state that the whole of the
crew are in excellent health and spirits. The season a|)pears exceedingly
favourable, the temperature being mild and the water ])erf('Ctly free
from ice along the shore as far as we can see. It was niy intention to
touch at (.'ape liathurst, with the chance of being able to forwaid this
des})ateh, wliich will now not be necessary, but I shall nuike the most of
the remainder of the season by getting to the vorthward in pursuance
of their Lordships' directions.

I have the honour to be, Sir,

Your most obedient, luunble Servant,

IIOBEIIT -M'CLUIM'], (Commander.

//( y Mdji -Ill's /ilscDi-cn/ S/iip Iiintitii/iifiir, o/^' Cajii' llntlinisl, Polar Sea:
ill/. 70" T.]' A'., hiiij. 127'' '.7' //'. ' /III f/ II St ;$(). 1S.')0.

Sir, — Having closed my uespateh of the 'J lib, with an intimation
that it uonhl be left near Point Warren with the natives observetl from
tiie ship, in aeeordancc with tliat intention 1 proceeded to the shore.
Why it was not so left 1 shall, in contintialiou of m\ narrative, relate.
From the contiguity of this tribe to the Maekenzie, I was naturally Ud
to imagine that their trade was with the Hudson's IJ.ay Company,
(ilreat, therefore, was my surprise upon approaching the Ix'aeh to find,
instead of being greeted with the usual Irieiidly signs, that two savages,
w'th gesticulations the most menacing, having bended bows with
arrows on their strings, and one with a large knife, which he brajulished
most significantly, waved us off. Taking no heed of these hostile
denK)nstrations, we pulled in ; they retreated, yelling I'uriously ; upon
oiu- reaching the full of the beach we made the same signs of friend-
ship which we had made with the Escpiimaux further west, bnlwithmit
any effect until joined by the interpreter, who was in t'nll native cos-
tume. This gave them confidence, and, upon his explaining our friendly
intentions, they approached ; but when within about thirty yards,
renuu'king some uuiskets which the boat's crew had, their fury revived ;
to pacify them they were laid upon the ground, where they beeanu' the
object of cautious examination ; still unsatisfied, they beckoned to lake
them to the boat; seeing that nothing short of this wcndd allow of any
couinumieatiou, I sent them away, when they apj)roaehecl, and per-
mitted us to exanune their bows and arrows.

Mr. Miertsching informed me that we had been observed at five

I ^

CAITAIN M'cLURE's DK8PATCHF.8.

o'clock in tlio moniinj;; the wliolc tribe Imtl irnmoili.iUlv Inkcn to
their baidnrs, witli their most vahiahle skins, and k'ft the settlenient,
with (lie execptioii of the dueC ami his son, who remained to defend
their j)roi)orty, as it wonld liave l)een undignified to n tire when danp;cr
was appreliended, A sick son and his motlicr, seeing our friendly dis-
position, soon joined us. Dr. Armstrong examined the poor lud's foot ;
it was in a frightful state of mortification. The chief stated that they
were at war with the ncighhouring trihea, and iiad occasional skirmishes
with the Indians ; that they had no cominnnioation with any jierson
lielonging to the Great Hiver (iMaekonzie), nor had they seen .iny white
peoj)le Itelbre ; hut, when the sea freezes (the latter end of next month),
the whole tribe proceed west and trade\vith tlic Estpiimanx whom we had
met near Jones's Island. The interpreter told him that he had found
a brother in the chief of one of those tribes, whose name was At tan-
was ; the old chief clapped his hands and said he knew him well ; that
he was the great chief he traded with, and their reason for going sucii
a distance, in preference to the Mackenzie, was that the white man had
given the Indians very bad water, which killed many, and made others
foolish (drunk), and that they would not have any such water ; from
this it evidently appears that the Comjjany lose annually many valiial>le
skins, which find their way to the Colville, instead of the Mackenzie.

Observing an old Hat brass button suspended from the ear of the ehief,
he said it was taken from a white man who bad been killi-d by one of bis
tribe, who went away in his kyack when the vessel wiis seen. The wiiitc man
belonged to a party which had landed at Point Warnn, and there built
a house ; nobody knew how they came, ,is they had no boat, but that
they went inland ; the man killed had strayed from the party, and that
bo and his son buried him upon a hill at a little distance. The ouly
answer we could obtain as to the ]m)l)al)le time when this transaction
took jdaee was, " that it might be last year, or when I was a child."
To examine the grave I was very anxious, but was prevented by the
state of the weather, becoming foggy with fresh l>reeze, which conipclled
our immediate return to the shiji ; so, making them a few presents, we
parted on very amicable terms. This intelligence appeared of so
important a nature, with respect to the white men on the point, that I
determined to remain until it became sutliciently clear to land and
cxiiniinc the house, which might possibly contain s<mie indication of
the missing expedition — this detained me IS hours, but to ha\e left
with a doubt would have been a subject of perpetual regret.

At 2 a.m., on the following morning, the '2."»th, we reached the I'oint,
the weather being tolerably clear. The interpreter. Dr. Armstrong,
and myself, went on shore in eager expectation of discovering some ehu'
t bat would lead to a knowledge of the parties ; but in this wf were
miserably disappointed ; two huts, indeed, were there, to excite iiopcs,
)>nt upon approaching them we found the woodwork to be peri'ectlv
rotten, ami of a very old date, without any description of mark to yield
the slightest information. The general appearance of the count iv
about tbe Point was low and marshy, covered with grass, moss, juill
llowers, the bveediug-plaee of the eider-duck, and every species of wild
fowl; we also remarked the footmarks of tlie fox and reindeer

fertile a landscape I could not anticipate upon the chores of tbe Polar
Sea. 'I'iie interpreter, from his knowled.';;e of tbe euslonis of tlie
Ks(pnmanx, is of opinion that the story (»f tbe white man is traditionary,

CArjAiN m'ci.li;ek despatches.

iti'lv tiikrn U)

he si'tlloiuent,

incd to (U'fnul

r w lie II (Inufjcr

ir iricmUy ilis-

»oor lad's loot ;

ntecl that they

nal skiniiishcs

th any person

ioeii any white

next month),

: whom wo had

he had i'oiiint

me was Atlau-

um well ; that

i'ov going sueh

white man had

d made others

1 water ; from

many vahiahjf

Maekenzie.

arol'the ehii'l',

hy one of his

The wliitenian

iiid there huilt

boat, hut that

arty, and that

L'c. The only

lis transaction

was a ciiild."

ented hy the

ieh compelled

presents, we

peared of so

point, that 1

to land and

iiidieation of

to ha\e Kfi

led the I'oint,

Arnistrono',

ing some eliic

this we were

excite hopes,

lie perfectly

nark to yield

the eonnliy

Rs, moss, and

'cies of wild

reindeer ; so

of the Pol-n-

MOis ol' the

liaditionnrv,

— pnthahly some of the early discoverers had hcen engaged in some
idVray with ihe ancestors of the present chief, and one of them had
liein Killi'd. The present peneration inherit the honour, and so identify
tlieinsrlves with lluir I'urci'alhers, speaking of the transaction in the
first pers(ui, as if Uiey themselves were the actors ; whieh is very likely
from the vague definition of the time — " it might he last year, or when
I was a child ;'" so the history of the white mnu will still continue a
mystery. We also heard that last year two boats came from the west-
ward, and landed at Point Warren, and then returned. I cannot
imagine what l)()ats these could he, unless they were those of Lieu-
tenant I'uUen, who, in thick weather, might have missed the ^raekenzie,
and, hy sights obtained at the I'oint, discovered his error. They had
not seen any this year,

Aug '20. — N.E. winds and snow, occasionally clearing, so that the
land could be discerned, which presented the same low line, with a few
conical hills a short distance inland. We saw a few old tents, hut not
a native. Two whales passed us close to the vessel, one very large,
although only in six fathoms of water.

Aug. 27. Light northerly winds and thick fog. It was niy
intention to send a Ijoat alongshore, that she might examine it thoroughly,
as the water to the eastwarcl of Cape IJrowu i)erniits us standing within
two miles uf the coast, and take her on hoard in the evening ; Imt,
under the eircumstanco of thick weather, I could not venture to do so,
fearful of being detained by missing her.

Aug. 2S. — Light winds from X.E., with a mild, cloudy day. At
noon. Cape DaUiousie S.W. 1 2 miles, several masses of drift ice, some
of the pieces very heavy, which, however, is not any obstruction to our
progress, as the sjjace of open water is ample for sailing. We have
i'omul, during the last four days, a current va-'ying from 1 1 to l(i miles
daily, setting to the southward. We have had no opjiortunity of
shooting; the gicatest jiart of the birds had taken their southern llight
liefore our arrival , the few Hocks that we have seen were very shy, and
iiuapproaehable.

Aug. i21).— -\'eiy dense fog, with liglit wind from N.E., which cleared
at noon suifieiently to obtain a meridian altitude, and found that we
had been set since yesterday south 12 nnles. Cape Dalhousie distant
S^W. (trui-) o miles ; the fog enveloped \is again while standing olf
shore, when we ran into a narrow channel, having but three and a half
fathoms on either side, which comjielled us to bear up west. This
carried us into deep water in about I.") minutes. In the ecmrse of the
al'ternoon we fell in with very heavy drift ice, composed of large Hoc
jiieces, occasionally becoming entangled in consequence of the thick fog,
although there was much open wrter among it.

Aug. ;^0. — Wind from the northward, with clear weather. Observ-
ing a mark on the beach upon the island off Maitland I'oint, in
Livi'r})ool-bay, sent Mr. Sainsbury (mate) to examine it, and to leave a
iioliee of our passing. Upon his return he rejiorted that an Escpiimaiix
• ■lU'amjtment had recently broken up, the traces of their tents and
footmarks being (juitc distinct. We observed from the ship several
iciiidecr, which were not seen by the p.nrty on shore. In standing
along (lie co.nst, oliserving natives, 1 ran in to forward this despatch,
trnsliiig if might reach the Hudson's IJay (^onijiany this year, which is
probfililc, if I bey arc not as grc.nt a set of savages as wo met near Point

CArTAiN M'rr.rnK's nr.spATCiiFs.

Wnrron. I hope to round Cnpp Hntlmrst to-morrow. This will
tlu-rot'orc, lie the last roimmniiiiition which if will, in nil prohiihility, he
ill my power to ninkc to their lionlships. The temperature has
hitherto heeii exeeeiliiigly mild, theriiiometer heinj; very seldom helow
.'{•i", and, from (he present favonrahle aj)penranee, hotli of the weather,
i\\u\ slate of the ice, I Imve very sfronii; ho|)es of !:;ettin<x well to the
northward ere thejiaviu;alioii ceases, which will l)e ahont the hdf»'r eml
of next month, aceonlini^ to l''s(piinianx report.

I have the hononr to ho, Sir,

Yonr most ol)edient hnmhle Servant,

UOHEIJT M'CUJHi:, Connnaiider.

//()• Md'icatii'n Disiovvni Sliij) /unslii/iilor, o//' Cnjir lUillnirsI, Pitlur S'tn,

\iii<iiis! ;5(). I'sr.o. ill In. 7()"' 'js'.v,', foiif/. rjs'^ XV //■.

Siu, — In accordance with 'he intention expressed at the conclusion
of my last letter, I jiroceeded in the tlrst whale-Ixmt, aceompanied hy
Dr. Armstrcmg and Mr. jMierls"hin^, followed hy Lientenant {'resswell
and a party of olHcers in a cutter, !)rinii;ini; a variety of presents. We
were mot upon landing;; hy two women, who i>;reeted us very i'ordially,
and, through the mctlium of the interpreter, accpiainted me that the
remainder of tlio trihe were at (ape IJnthurst, catching whales, which
was nt no great distance, and they would he our guides, (iladly availing
ourselves of this apj)nrently fortunate incident, the hoats were directed
to jtuU along shore, while we, asccmling the clilf, reached n tine level
plniii, extending several miles north and south, rich with verdure, and
ahouiiding in moss. We preferred walking, hoi)ing to meet some rein-
deer, for which the ])astnre was excellent ; hut mile after mile was walked
without any aj)pearance of the fishing jtarly. Arriving, alter the expi-
ration of three hours, in asiin\ll hay, we were, however, gialilied at being
told this was the spot uhere two l)oals, the year helore last, had jtitehod
their tents for the night (Sir ,T. Kiehardson), and we had to go a very
little further. On reaching the next hay, \\v found there two tents,
which our guides said helonged to them ; hut the ('ape, or any appear-
ance of the trihe, could not he seen. We declined going any further, as,
in conse(iuence of the wind falling light, the vessel was hy this time hull
down. We were then kindly invited to heeome partakers (jf their tents,
and to go on the next morning, which hospitahle offer was not accepted ;
hut, bartering several articles in exchange for salmon, ;iiul making them
a few presents, we returned on hoard, when, at 10.. 'id p.m., it lieconiing
dark and foggy, and getting into ."»', fathoms, we .•inchori'd for the night.

August ,Slst, at daylight, found that we wero helwi'cu tin" mainland
and Ihiilley'.s Islands, alxiut a mile from the latter, the wc'illier still
foggy, with a moderate X.W. hreize ; i)iU determined, if possiliie, to
discover the fishing party, at /'..'>(> a.m. I left the ship, with Mr. Mierts-
ching anil Dr. Arn\strong in (ho cutler, and, after coasting idiout ten
miles, discovered, u|)()n tiie extrrmity of (!ape JJathurst, a large eiu'amp-
inent, consisting of oO lents and nine winter houses, mnnhering a little
over .'}()0 people. Upon landing upon a very low isthnms, which eomieets
within a few yards the islands and mainland, we remarked a commotion
at the village, and a number of men rushed down the cliffs, launched

ow. This will
II |ir()l)}il)ilif_v, he
['inpcrnturL'* Ims
•y scliloiii hclow
<'<■ (Ik' wciidicr.
in.U' well lo III,.
i< till- Inlfcr I'litl

rvniil,
('onmiaiKlci'.

iirxl. Polar Sn,
1' //.

(lie ooiicliisioii
K't'onipaiiird l»v
t'liant (.'ross we'll
|)ri'S('ntt;. MV
very c'ordially,
'»I me tliat the
\vhales, wljich
(ilatlly availing
s were directed
it'd n tine level
' verdure, and
Pot some reiii-
lile was walked
idler the (..xpi.
'(died at beinf^
f. Iiiid piteheil
I '<> !;■(• a very
3re two tents,
'»■ niiy appear-
•ly further, as.
this time hull
of their tents,
iiotaeeejited ;
making them
, It IxToiuiui:;
f"i'(he nighf.
'he iiiainiand
ws'.'ithcr sfill
pii-'siltie, »<.
• 'Mr. .Mierts-
iii!,' aljoiir (cii
>',!4,e eneauip-
'I'riii^ a little
hieheomieets
<*i coMiniotion
Ifs, launched

t AI'IAIN .M'i I.I Kl.'s 1)I,.S|'.\U ||i>

1.5

(heir kyaeK>, and I'rossed to meet us. Ilaulii.;;; these lii^lit and eleu,imt
skin's oil the iieaeli, they advaiiei'd with knives drawn and Imihs lieiit,
t vidriidy pfiparcd fur Imslililies. iMiidiiii;:; hy our j;i-.tiires that our
iiileuliniis well' ■iiiiiealile, their licus wen- reliiriu-d to tlieir sealskin east s,
lull the knives tiny still reiaiiied. 'riir iiiterpri'ier told tlu'iu that our
visit was i'rieiidiv, and that they should put away their knives. " Yes,"
said (hey, " when you do your mms." To he idlowed to carry the
uniskel appeare<l a !'.i">'iil favour, for which tluy presented you with their
knife, as a token of iiieiidship. We reinaiiH'd upwards of nn hour;
diirinu; l!ie greater pari ttf tin- time, Mr. Miertsehini; was in eiiniest con-
M'lsation with tiie chief— a line, iiitellii;eii(, middle-aged man- upon the
iii'cessily ot' his forwardiu_!; our ilespatehes to 'die Mackenzie, which he
promised most faitldully lo |)erforni, for which he was lo receive a musket
and aiumunition, and, u|)ou his delivcriin!; ihe piU'kel, a further reward
( (pial in value to a silver Ibx-skin. Jle, however, said that lluir Irilie do
not trade with the ^Mackenzie, hut with another further south, who in
iheir turn Irallie with the Indians wlio are in the service of the Hudson's
Hay Company ; so, as they have to pass through three tribes of the
heathen before they «'ome into the bauds o(' civilized man, 1 think it
cxtrciiu'ly probai)le that thev may la ver reach their de.stinaliou. Mr.
Micrlscidiii:', iVoiii his kiiowled'^e of tlu' Msipiiiiiaiix character, thinks
o;ber\Aise, aiid ima!.>;ines thai the chief will himself «'arry them. The
perfect iMsc witli which tliis t;entleman understands and converses with
these iutercstim; |H'ople surprises lluiu very much; they were most
;ui\i'ius for him to remain, promisinj; to be very kind. The cliu'f jue-
seiited his daui^hler, a very pretty !;irl ot' al)out I."), who should he his
wile; (enlsand ;dl ap])urtenaiices were to beadded. While tl;eje nego-
liations were uoini;' forward, npwarilsof 100 persons liad descei'jled from
the >.il!a;;,e; with such a coiicoui'se I did not think it prudent to open
the baiv eonlaiiiiin:; the presents, well kuowiui; their cupidity is easily
e\ei(ed hy the ilisplay of such valuables, when they are not to be relied
on. \\c consequently returned to the boat. \Vhcu the clnef was
instructed in the use of his gun, he showed himself mi ajit pupil, and
when the ammunition was given into his hands, expressed liimself very
nuieh gratified at the gift, and walked towards the village with his chief
men. A line was then made on (he beach, which the recipients of gifts
were not to pass (and this they })erfectly understood), and the inter-
jireter then commenced the distribution. For a little time order was
maintained ; hut the fair sex becoming clamorous iuid closing round, the
line was broken, and, to prevent being driven into the water, we were
compelled to retreat to the boat, which was lying aground about 'JO yards
from the hcacli. By this manoeuvre, we escaped from all that had not
on water-tight boots, but still about 10 surrounded the cutler ; and,
although all the crew were stationed round her to jirevcnt their getting
on board, so eager and persevering were the women that several wt-re
lifted in, endeavouring to seize everything within their reach ; one of
them, in the most dexterous maimer, slipped the compass out of its box
into the breast of her jacket, and with (lifiieulty it was recovered. It
was only by great firmness and stojijiage of the supplies that wo reduced
them to order, or to quit the boat. The presents being at length dis-
tributed, and every one in good humour, we wished them farewell, and
commenced launching the boat, in which operation they most vigorously
assisted, and 1 7, in their fairy kyacks, escorted us to the ship, arriving

tiAl'TAlN mV'1,1 UI;'s |i|;sl'A'lt'lll'>.

; \

nlioiit ;i f|iiiirtov kI an htmr hi'litrc wo iIkI — cvccitt unr, ulm Itiuiii.i; jj;nl
soiin- lilllr tlihdniti' nil tlir sliuif, iiicoiiiili red ii iVoli lini/c imd iimj;li
Mon. We slioilt'iU'd siiil, iiixl look liojit niid nil iii. 'I'lic |iooi I'lllnw
lu'iiij; dri'iiflird, we olVc'icd liini a litdc Itniiidy, wliicli In dniuk al a
inoiillilul, not Ikmiiu; awari' of its str('iip;lii. lie siilVcnd llic sriisalion to
Mid)si(K' witiiout t'vinciiit"; (o\oi|>t l»y his eyes wati-rinu;) any syniploin ol'
vexation, and tlu-n nsKcd for wati'v. Many cniiu' on hoard the -liiii, Itnl
oiu' only vouturcd hcjow, who was cxrccdin^ly >or|niscd (o lintl tlnl \\v
had not tents, hut houses (cahins), and said hi- sh.iuld have luanv
wondi'ri'nl things to relate when he weni houic This Irihc is a liui'
intelligent race — cleanly, handsome, and wdl^rown , and I (h'e|ily renrcl
that so little luis heeu hitherto attenijtted in oivili/int: them. I sin-
oerely ho|)e that the day is not far distant when this interestinj; people
may he redeemed from their «leplorahle state of heathen darkness.

At r>. 10 p.m. we wci!j;hcd, with a moderate hreeze from the !*!.^^ ., and
reached to the S.K. for the purpose of clearing!; Hailley'« Islands. .\t !»
tacked and stood to the N.W., the wind hecomintj \\<<(\\l and variahlc.
During the nij^ht we made h\it little pro{i;ress ; and at s a.m. on the
morninfj; of Scptcmhev 1, ohservcd ('ajie llathurst, N 11. hy K. (i miles.
In the comse of the forenoon many kyacks came oil'. The natives, ia)w
assured of our friendly intentions, eame on l)oard without the ^.li!i;hte,s(
reluctance, and, thron;;h the medium of the inti'rpreter, ae«(uaiiili(l us
that during the night they had heen prejtnring a feast, roasting Avhale
aiul venison, and had salmon, hluhher, and other delicacies, hesidcs plenty
of skins, ready at the tents, and hoped we would t-ome on shori, which,
indeed, I should have very much enjoyed had the vessel heen in a less
precarious jiosition ; hut under the [tresent circiunstances it was inijjos-
sihle, which it appeared that those on shore understood, for in the
afternoon a great many of hoth sexes joined us , and, all heing clamorous
to get on hoard, we were ohliged to take their kyacKs on deck. Siting
their boats were in safety, they made themselves jjorfcctly at home,
examining every article of furniture most minutely. The pictures and
looking-glasses in the olhcers' cahins were ohjerts of nnich admiration.
Many were dancing with our nu'u, and so mutually happy were all
parties, that it was near (i o'clock hetore 1 could get them to leave the
ship; indeed, had not the interpreter told them that wc were going
towards tlic pack, and would not again come near their tents, I very
unicli (piestion if we shoidd have got them away without com|tulsion.
AVe umlerstood from them that the main pack is j)ermanent, never leaving
the shore above 12 or 1 I miles. They designate it as the "laud of the
white bear," as it abounds with those animals, which they appeared
rather to dread, as, when we stood towards the pack in the Ibrenoon,
they entreated not to be left there, ab they were feari'ui of the hear now-
thai so many of their women were with them, Om- mother mentioned
that she had lier little child carried away hy one of them a short time
previous, while playing on the shore a little distance from her. The poor
creature shed tears in relating the catastrojjhe. At parting several
presents wert* bestowed upon them, which had the olVeet of eliciting
promises of fricndshii) for us or anv of our white hrethrou who niisht
conu! on then- coast. These j)eo])le had no article of European manu-
facture, except a few iron pots, which rcilaiiilv lluv gavi a very
formidable price for — no less than live of fhcl.uv.t i.ilvir lo\-L.kin;) lor
each. The tribe leave the Cape about the JOth ot Septendjer, when the

ie»'
wit
dis

yea

pae
be
sh.
riei
of
vee
at
Ihn
advi
can
bon
nigl
for
rclu
,s

per:
inih

ai'le
lu^n

• Al'TAIN M'CI.I Itl.^ lll:Sl•Alt•|lll;^.

u liaviii,:; i^ol
'.V mill I'oii^li
• |MM»r Ulliiw
(hiiiilx III II
si'lisalioii (()
syiii|i(niii III'
llir >lii|i, Itiil
liiitl tl>ii( we
have )iiMiu
il)i' i.s a liiir
li('|ily nurd
Ik'iii. I sill-
■stiiii; |»i'()|»l('
ikiu'ss.
IV S.AV., and
amis. At !)
ml varialilc.
a.m. oil the
■ K. (i niilcs.
natives, iiuw
tlu' ^li!;liti'sl
(■(|iiaiiitiil u-j
istiiij; Asliair
('sides pli'iitv
hull , wliicli,
L't'll ill il less

was iiiijios-

, tor ill till'

iji clainoroiis

is. Sifiiip,

I at lioiiii',

ii'tiirrs and

idiiiiratioii.

ty wi'i't' all

o li'avr iIk;

wiTi! li'oiiii';

iits, 1 very

iiiipidsioii.

vcr leaving

land of the

,• appeared

e toreiiooii,

e Iteai' now

inentioiu'd

short time

The poor

iiii; several

r elieiting

who might

lean iiianu-

i\i a very

v-jKin..) lor

', when the

1
i

ice JH siitlieiently stroiij; to lieai then sledges, lor the pnrpose ot' Imrlering
with the horderint;; tiihe , they then t!;o to their niiitir hon-is sniiie
(listaiiee inland, with the e\eeption ot a lew families, who live the entire
vear upon this hlcak and inhospitalde shore.

Septeniher 2iid. — 1' ine dny, with lis^lit northerly wind, ran alonu; the
paek edjj;e, the lee beiii^ heavy and impenetrable, not a drop of water to
Ik- seen from the mast-head anioiij; it ; the water hetween it and the
shore is praetieahle, allhou};!! eneumhcred with iiineli loose ice. Mxpe
rieiiced a stronjj; current from the south-east, which set us to the westward
ot IJailley's Islands. Upon the morniii|j; of the .'Jrd the wind gradnally
veered to the southward, l)ringiiig with it ii very dense fog, and, heiun
at the time surrounded with heavy lloe-pieces and close sailing ice,
tliroui;h which it was necessary to pursue our course, so that e\ery
advantage might he taken of the favourable bree/e, the vessel oeeasionidly
came into violent collision. At noon it cleared a little, when Trail Point
bore S.S.W. about seven miles ; sounded in (i."> fatlioms (mud). The
nights having a few hours' darkness, lilne lights and rockets are lircd
for the purpose of attracting the attention of any parties that might he
returning from Wollaston or Victoria Lands bound to the Mackenzie.

Septeniher Ith. — liight variable winds, with warm weather, the tem-
perature vising to 1 1 ; the water along shore free lV(nii ice ; about four
miles to the westward of the llorton, somided in s;> fathoms, and shortly
alter passed over a narrow shoal having but \'A fathoms ; a few pieces of
heavy ice were grounded upon it ; the land appears to average from St)
lo l(M( feet in luMght, composed of blue clay, intermingled with sand.
.Many whales have been about the ship— at one time eight, and from
one to four the grcutcr part of the day. .\ Ixar, the tirst that has been
seen, was likewise remarked upon some loose iee iii-shore, but time
wiudd not allow of its being imisued.

September .'». — The weather, which had been sipially, accompanied
liy a thick fog, during the early part (if the day, cleared towards noon,
win n a large volume of smoke was observed about \2 miles S.W., and
ti\e to the eastward of the llorton, in the same pot that it had at-
tracted our atti'iition yesterday. .\s divers opinions weie in circulation
respecting its probable cause, and the ice-mate having positively
reported that from the (-row's-nest he could distinguish several persons
moving about, dressed in white shirts, and observed some wliito tents
in a hollow of the elitV, I certainly had every reason to imagine they
were a party of Ijurojieans in distress, convinced that no traveller
would remain for so long a period as we had remarked the smoke in
one spot for their pleasure ; therefore, to satisfy myself, eipially as
others, 1 determined to send a boat on sliore, as it was now cahii. The
lirst whaleboat, under liieutenant ('resswell, with Dr. Armstrong, and
Mr. Miertsching, was despatched to examine into the cause, who on
iheir return reported the snudse to emanate from 1.") small mounds, of
volcanic appearance, i)ecu])ying a sjiaee of about .")(> yards, the jdacc
strongly impregnated with sulphur, the lower mounds being about W
feet above the sea level, tlie highest about .")() feet. The land in its
vieinity was blue clay, much intersected with ravines and deep water-
eonrse:^ varying in elevation from ;i()l) to oOl* feet ; the mark of a rein-
deir was traced to a small pond of water immediately jdjove the
juounds ; a notice ot our having landed was left, which would not long
remain, as the cliff is evidently rapidly crumbling away. Thus the

Ik'

M I

III

' \n AiN M'( I I i;i, ■^ i>i Mi'An iiin.

niN>(riv ol llu' wliilc Nliirls .inil tciiU \mis iiiit><l Milisfiirtorilv »\|i|,iiiictl.

A I

net /(•

•ll.Tll

V »|iiiiiuiii^ III) t'niiii llic \\("^l\Mit'(l, ur iiimiIc -.iill In tin

lull Ml- sliiii'k so licavilv nmiiiist Inrzc l)IiU' llm'-pirn'x tlinl wtir liiiulv
_ ic uii'iiti'st \ iitiliuicc imtl ntlcntioii wcii

N'.l'l. ; ilnrinu; tin' iii,i;lit it t'lvsliriit'd coiisiilciiiMy, nitli r/iin ami lliirk
wiatlicr. 'I'liis, ciiinliiiicil \>itli tour Inuir^' (larkiicss, cuiniK'Hril iiic
to sIkiiIci) sail, altlimit;!) loatli to lose- tlic lull hiiulil ni tlu' lair uim

.p ^. ,..._. .,.111' III »(.'• pirn's

lice Mini attention Will iiiHiil^
lii'ii'iit to a\oiil tlicni, M) no alternative ceniaineil to iiit'ent 'U .ister,
A j;reat nianv xeiils ami wliali's were .•'een in I''iaiil\liii-I);i\ ; m' less
tliaii I ."i of tlie latter were plavim:' aiimnd iis at oi c lime, Init very
small, or, aeconlinn to (Jreeiilaml lisliiii}; jdirnseolouy, "lia\ini; only
lluve-lool hone," so Mr. .Newton, the iee-inate, infonns me. At
I a III., iipon tlie niorniiij;' of tlie (itii. we were oil' tlie siiiall islamls
iii'ar Cajti' I'arry, lieariiit; N.l'l. i»y N. ten miles, willi a line wi-slerly
l)i'iH'/e, and loose sailing ice, inter^persi-d with many heavy ildc-pieiTS ;
the main pack was ahoiil three iiiile^ to the N.NV,, aiiiiareiitly out'
solid mass. At 1 I ..'ill a.m. Iii^h land was ohserved on the port how,
hearinu; N.K. hy N., distant ahoiif .')l) miles. On approaehinu; it, the
main pack appeared in 'ir restinj; iijioii the western sliore, wliieli side
it was my intention in liave eoasted had it heeii possible ; the eastern
one heinj;, however. eom)>aiatively clear, as tar as eonld he nseertaiiied
i'roin the mast-head, deeidod me to t'ollow the water, supposing it
an island ri)und which a ))assa^e would he t'oiiml into the j'olar Sea.
We eoiitiniied workiiit; to windward the whole of the nij;ht, and by
\).'M) a.m. of the 7th were olV the South Cape, — a fine bold iieadlniid,
the elilVs rising; perpemlieulnrly upwards of a thousand feet, which was
named " Lord Nelson's Head," in uieinory of the hern, whoso early
career was connected with Arctic ndvouture. Wc shortly afterwards
hove to, and, with the first whalehoat and cutter, landed nud took pos-
session, in the name of I lor Most (jrii'ious Majesty, callinp; it,
" Harings Island," in honour of the FitoL I-wd of the Admiralty.
.V |)(de was erected, with a large paiiiti i huil i ;i r it, ue. :- cask

which was left, containing a notification

lljci' particulars of our

having been there. The sight obtained i)y artificial horizon jdace the
signal-statr in latitude TT (»' X., longitude 1 23-^ 0' W. ; and the fall of
tide was ascertained to be six inches during one hour and a half. We
obsorved numerous recent traces of reindeer, hare, and wild fowl ; moss
■id divers species of wild tlowers were also in great abundance; many
.'j^i -in IS of tl' m equally, as of other subjects of interest to the natu-
ril.a, were selected with nuich care by Dr. Armstrong. From an
ctovfttion obtai led of about 500 feet we had a fine view towards the
interior, which was well clothed with moss, giving a verdant appear-
ance to the ranges of hills that rose gradually to between 2,000 and
.'i,()00 feet, intersected with ravines, which murt convey a copious
supply of water to a largo lake situated in the centre of a wide plain,
idiont l.") miles distant. The sight to seaward was favourable in the
extreme ; open water, with a small (juantity of ice, for the distance of
full 10 miles towards the east, insured good progress in that direction.
Returning on board at 1 p.m., we made sail to the eastward, having a
beating wind. Continued working along shore, in soundings varying
from y to 7(> fathoms ; dark mud mixed with yellow clay, until
close to the land, when it changed to line white sand. The Aveather
becoming foggy, our lead was the only guide until 10 a.m. of the Dth;

I ';

, ii))|)arciitly one
)ii tlic port* Ituw,

icltil'ilv (Alil.iillril.
iii;iilc Miii III tlif
ill ruin and iliirk
is, i-nMi|K'lli'tl nic
<»r tlir iiiir uiii., .

tliiit wiTi' liiiuly
ntioii wir. inijiil-

itii > I'lit ■li-.isicr,
,liii-li; r , 11(1 |(>HM
■ lime, lull vi'iy
:y, " liaxinL; oiilv

ilorui> IMC. At

lie small islaiiils

II tine AU'slnly

icavy ll(.('-j»i(.'i'(.'s ,

par

III'

liniachiii^ it, the
lioir, wliicli side
bit" ; till' oastnii
d bf njst'crtaiiii'd
or, sii|)j)()sii!j>; it
tin; I'olar Scji.
(.- ui,u;lit, and by
u bold licadlniid,
feet, wliicli was
ro, whose early
ortly afterwards

d nnd took pos-
esty, ealliiio; it,

tbo Admiralty.

it, nci' :i cask

rticnlars of our
orizun ))laco tiie
and the fall of
uid a half. We
wild fowl ; moss
undance ; many
est to the natii-
ong. From an

w towards the
icrdant appear-

veon 2, 000 and
nvcy a copious
)f a wide plain,
ivourable in the

the distance of
I that direction,
tward, having a

udings varying

ow clay, until
The weather

m. of the Dth;

CAITAIN .M*cl.rili:» |il,!4l AltllKh.

it tlu-n cleand for a short time, when land .
\tai<l, alioiit I.') miles distant, extending to tbi
i\(>ciiiild ii'tieb, Tbe iiioiiiitaiiis in the iiitei
eM>iTe(l, uliile tlie low j:r<iiiinl is (jiiite liee.
peaks MiTi- iliNceniiliie, apparently of voleanic orisiin.
was named I'riiiee AUtert's Land, in honour of Her ^'

Continuing ini

III

'>M'i I'd to the east-

fiortliwiM'd as far :i!i tbo

are lofty and siiow-

■ \eral vi ly reiiiarkaide

Tlii'' discovery

aje^fx Consort,

eoursi. "ilowly to

atHti,:^ winds, at

'I ed afler lier

bit. 72" 1' X., b.iig. 11!> -'.V W.
tlie .N.K., in coiise(|ueiu'e of lliiek fog, snow, and
S a.m. of tbe iOtb we were near two rocky islet ■*,
[{oyiil iligliness the I'riiieess Uoval, the largest be;iig ; lOUt ('00 feet
in lieiu;bt, and a mile and a lialt in Iciigtb, the south' i and eastern
sides l)ciiig precipitous; the other was about a quarter < a mile long
luitl a bumlred feet high, grailually sloping to the water'?) edge, repre-
s( iitiiig very much tbe appearance of an inverted \ hale 'loat. The
uiiid becoming fair, and weather clearing, all the stiuldiii sails were
set with the hope of reaebing Harrow's Str.'iil, from whit i we were
now distant abimt "tl miles. Tlie water was toleral)ly ele, ill that
diri'ctinii, altlioiigh miieli ice was lying against tbe western iml, and
li'iiiii a slioiil e.xleiiding towards it from tbe largest of tbe I'rincess
Koyal Islands, upon \Nliich we obtained !.'{ fathoms water ;miieh loose
iiH- was also in motion, and while endeavouring to run bet^^ en tw(»
lilies, at the rate of four knots, tbey closed so rapidly, on.' iipn i either
lienni, that our way was instantly stopped, and the vessel lifte. consi-
derably ; in this position we were retained a (piarter of an hour, when
tbe |iressiire eased, ami we ^iroceeded. Our advance was of short
duration, as at '_' p.m. tbe wind suddenly shifted to the north eat and
began to freshen ; the water, which a few hours jirevious had excited
sanguine hopes of a good run, became soon so thickly stiiddet! with
lilies, tiiHi by '1 p.m. there was scarcely sutHcicnt to keep the ship tree;
this by i/iiich exertion was, however, ilfected, until 2 a.m. of the 1 lib,
wlien we were be.set ; at ."> a.m. tbe ice again ojiened, which admitted oi our
getting a few miles to the north-east, until IL.'iO a.m., when our course
was impeded by a very dense pack. At 7 p.m. the wind shifting to
tbe north. west, >»et the whole body of the ice upon the eastern shore,
wb:i I »liiialed our water from 80 to .")0 fathoms in one hour. A clear
spaiwof t*o miles was, however, the result of this movement, in wliioli
we ciuitiniicd working the whole night, and upon the morning of tbe
i2th we pereeivid we had lost som 'uiles, as the pack was in motion to
ll !• loutiiward ; iilwi the further mortification of seeing the whole of
the Western shore perfect ly exempt from ice, while the space of water
we occupied was hecoming rapidly more limited by very large and
heavy iloes, througli \< bicli we were unable to force, and at 11 a. mi
were again beset. A fresh gale, with snow, which continued until the
morning of the l.'Uh, pressed the ice so heavily upon the vessel that
the rudder was unhung to prevent its being damaged ; during the night
the temperature fell to 10", and the land became completely snow-covered.
On tbe lath, however, it rose to •iO'', with the wind from the S.W.,
which set the ice in uiotiim, comi)elliug us to shift our berth, to avoid
collision with an immense iloe. At 2. .SO a.m. commonced warping,
which tedious and laborious duty continued with but slight intermission
until half-past ll,*, when we i)assed into clear water. A run of live
miles to the X.E. brought us to another icy lield too dense to penetrate,
extending from shore to shore, which here are about twelve miles asunder.

i^'- I

!i !

ill

'i!

) '

i i '

!' I

CAPTAIN M'cLUnK's DESPATCHES.

The weather towards sunset heconiiiig thick witli snow, we ran into six
fathoms, and secured to a ])iece of grounded ice under the western
hmd, with the intention of remaining (hiring the night, as they were
tiien long and dark ; therefore, iiavigatinjf among close ice is (|nite
iini(ractical)le. The wind, which had been fresh from the S.W. during
..le day, about 7 p.m. fell light, when the ice in the N.E., tio longer
.strained, spread itself al)roa(l with such rapidity that at a little after
eight it was observed ai)i)roaching, its white line, clearly defined, run-
ning like an unbroken wave along the dark smooth water. To turn
the hands up, make sail, .lud cast oft' the warps, was hut the work of
a few minutes ; yet, with such violence was it imj)elled, that we had
scarcely time to tow clear of the jjiecc we had been fast to before it
encircled the vessel, sweejnng her away to the S.W. into five fathoms.
I expected to have been driven on the beach : fortunately, from some
unseen cause, its course was changed to the S.E., which took us into
20 fathoms, thus fluctuating between hopes aiul fears until 11.1.") |).m.,
when its progress was mysteriously arrested, and, gradually opening
out, allowed of our running hito clear water. As the navigable season
was now drawing to a close, which the fall in the temperature, as well
as the formation of ])aiicake ice upon the surface of the water whenever
the wind became light, nnniistakeably pointed out, it I)ecame a sub-
ject of anxious consideration what course to adopt in regard to the
safety of the vessel ; whether, by running to the southward, in which
direction the water was still open, to endeavour to obtain a harbour in om;
of the bays indenting the south-eastern side of Baring's Land, the
nearest, probably, being GO miles distant, and then only the chance of
finding a safe anchorage, which, if our search proved a failure, would
place the vessel in a worse situation than at jiresent, exposing her to a
wide sea range, sulycct to heavy pressure from the enormous massive
floes with which the Polar Sea is encumbered, but from which wc are
here protected by the Princess Royal Islands ; or to continue our advance
to the north-east as long as the season permitted, and then submit
to the only alternative, that of hazarding a winter in the pack. I
decided upon the latter, for these reasons, — that to relincpiish the
ground obtained through so much difficulty, labour, and anxiety, for
only the remote chance of finding safe winter quarters, would be inju-
dicious, thoroughly impressed as I am with the absolute imjmrtance
of retaining every mile to insure any favourable results while navigat-
ing these seas, the loss of which might frustrate the operations of a
whole season. Above all, being in the vicinity of IJanks's Land, ami
in the direction in which Sir J. Franklin would, in all probability, have
endeavoured to j)euetrate, could he have reached Cape Walker, I there-
fore considered that our position was most eligible for carrying into
full effect the instructions of my Lords Commissioners of the
Admiralty, when the season becomes favourable for dispatchiu'^ jiarties
upon this important and interesting search. These, Sir, were the
considerations which influenced me in this " choice of difficulties,"
and they will, I trust, appear of sufficient validity to meet with the
concurrence of their Lordships, hazardous as was the experiment.
At a.m. of the 17th, the wind, which had been light from the
N.W., gradually died away, when we were almost immediately l)eset.
There were several heavy floes in the vicinity ; one, full six miles in length,
passed at the rate of two knots, crushing everything impeding its pro-

(WrTAIN l^l'CLimii's PKSPATC11ES.

ow, we ran into six
nndor the western
light, as tiicy were
close ice is (|iiitc
m the S.W. during
le N.E., no louijer
:hat at a little after
learly (letined, run-
h water. To turn
as hut the work of
[lelled, that we had
■en fast to hefore it
. into five fathoms,
unately, from some
iviiich took ns into
rs until 1 1.1.') p.m.,
gradually ojieniiijr
e navigahle season
emperattu'e, as well
the water whenever
, it hecame a suh-
t in regard to (he
uthward, in which
»in a harbour in om;
taring's Land, the
only the chance of
ed a failure, would
;, exposing her to a
enormous massive
from which we are
)ntinue our advance
I, and then submit
r in the pack. I
', to relinquish tlie
r, and anxiety, for
■rs, would be inju-
)solute importance
nits while navigat-
le operations of a
Janks's Land, and
1 probability, have
)e Walker, I there-
for carrying into
missioners of the
lispatchiu'f; j)arties
ese, Sir, were the
e of difficulties,"
to meet with the
the experiment,
■n light from the
mmediately l)e.set.
six miles hi length,
; impeding its j)ro-

q;ress, and grazed our starboard bow. Fortunately there was but young
ice upon the oj)posite side, which yielded to the pressure ; had it other-
wise occurred the vessel nnist inevitably have been cut asunder. In the
nfternoon we secured to a moderate- sized piece, drawing 8 fathoms,
whicii n]>peared to offer a fair refuge, and from which we never after-
wards parted ; it conveyed us to our furthest N.E. position, lat. '3° 7'N.,
long. 117° lO' W., back round the Princess lloval Islands. Passed
the largest within .'iOO yards to lat. 7'1° 12' N.', long. 11 8" 12' \V.,
rrtnrning along the coast of Prince Albert's Land, and finally freez-
ing in at lat. 72° .50' N., long. 117° 5.5' W., upon the ;30th of
September, during which circumnavigatiou we received many severe
nips, aiul were frerpiently driven close to the shore, from which our
deep friend kept us oil". To avoid separation, we had secured with two
stream cal)les (one chain) two six and two five inch hawsers. As our
e\[)osed ])osition rendered every precaution necessary, we got upon deck
twelve uionths' provisions, with tents, warm clothing, &c., and issued
to each jierson a ))air of carpet boots and blanket bag, so that, in the
event of any emergency making it imperative to quit the vessel, we
might not be destitiue. On the 8th of October our perplexities
terminated with a nip that lifted the vessel a foot, and heeled her four
degrees to ])<)rt, in conseipience of a large tongue getting beneath her,
ill which ])osition we quietly reinaineti. As, however, there was a
probat)ility of being thrown upon the ice, it was requisite that a smooth
siu'face should be made to receive the vessel, whicli was accomplished
with much facility, by blasting the humnioeks ahmg the edge of the
tloe for aliout IS!) yards, and 2U in breadth. This done, and every
indication of the pack lieing now thoroughly cemented with a tem})era-
tnre of seven minus, we comjdeted housing over, and other arrangements
for our winter quarters. As the weather ujion the 10th was calm and
fine, and the ice (piiet, at 8.130 a.m. left the ship, accompanied by
Lieutenant Cresswell, Ur. Armstrong, and Mr. Miertsching, with a party
of seamen, carrying a pole &c., to jdant upon the shores of Prince
Albert's Land, to which we proceeded to take possession in the name
of her Most Gracious Majesty. This accomplished, we walked to the
highest hill observalde at the distance of five miles, to an elevation of
l,r)U() feet, which gave an extended view in every direction. The
country was very hilly, with deep ravines and large lakes. This
appears the general character of the land on both shores. The course
of the water towards the N.Fi. we were anxious to trace, hoping to see
an opening into Barrow's Strait. In this we were disiappointed, from
the many low points intervening, rendering it impossible to ascertain
the land from the sea, both being frozen. On our return we had the
mortification to iiud that the land and sea ice had separated about 100
yards along the whole line of coast. We walked by its margin for
some miles, hoping to meet with a loose piece of ice to ferry us across ;
but night closing rapidly subjected us to so many falls, owing to the
inc(|ualities of our road not being distinguishable, that we were comj)elled
to halt, and commence firing to attract attention ; but our distance from
the ship was too far to render our signals of any utility. At 8.30. p.m.
Mr. Court, with one of the many parties that were seareliing the ice iu
all directions, fortunately saw our Hashing, and made for it ; but, un-
suspecting our dilemma was created by open water, he had no boat;
immediately returning he met with a party which had two of llalkclt's.

n 2

CAPTAIN M'CLURk's DESPATCIIKS.

'li

These were soon Immehetl ; only getting them through the pancake ice,
which was by this time an inch thick, was attended with great dilficidty.
The sea ice also rapidly setting to the northward, the boats after each
transit had to be carried south before being laiuiched, so as to insure
their reaching the only spot tVotn which the party to be relieved could
enjbark. This operation commenced at 10.30. ]).m., and by midnight
we were all over, and reached the ship at "l.'M) a.m., all parties meeting
with heavy falls, but receiving no accident of consequence. I caiuioL
refrain from noticing the excellence of Ilalkett's boats, or speak in too
high terms of the ingenuity of their inventor. These admirable little
articles were inflated on board, and with the greatest facility carried
upon a man's shoulders over ice which, from its excessive roughness,
no other boat could by any possibility have been got across without
being smashed. By their means a large ])arty were relieved, who were
without tents, clothing, fuel, j)rovisions, or in any way provided to
withstand the severities of a polar night, with the thermometer 8 degrees
mhms. The consequences to them might have been very serious ; as it
WHS, however, the annexation of Prince Albert's Land to the Britisii
Crown was considered to have terminated so favourably, that I directed
an extra supper and allowance of grog to be issued to my energetic erew
as n reward for their eight hours' vigorous exertions.

Being dissatisfied with the view obtained froni I'rince Albert's Laud
respecting the waters we were now in as to their connexion with
Barrow's Strait, which would settle the question of a liorth-west passage,
I determined to proceed in that direction with a travelling party, al-
though rather late in the season, as soon as I felt that the vessel might
be safely quitted, which I judged would occur after the ensuing spring
tides, if at that period there was no conmiotion among the ice. Ae('or(i-
ingly, upon the 21st, everything being favourable, 1 started wilh Mr.
Court, second master, and the following men, — Robert Calder, captain
of the forecastle ; Robert Tiffeney, captain of the maintop ; Michael
Flynn, quartermaster ; George Brown, A. H. ; Peter Thomson, captain
of the foretoi) ; and James Saunders, private. Royal Marines. 'I'he
ice, for two miles from the ship, was so rough tiiat Lieutenant Haswell
and the whole of the ship's company were oecuiped in carrying the
sledge and different articles of lading. At 8 am. the sledge was finally
packed, when, with the fatigue party, in charge of Mr. Wynniatt (mate),
accompanied by Dr. Armstrong, as an amateur, we set off towards the
north-east at noon ; the fatigue jjarty having taken us eight miles, were
directed to return. Soon after they quitted us we got p.mong very
difficult ice. The sledge was broken, but, (piiekly fishing it, we pro-
ceeded. Unfortunately, scarcely an hour had elapsed, when in crossing
a floe, the inequalities of which were imperceptible, it came down with
such a crash that it broke into pieces. This was unlucky, but, pitching
our tent, Mr. Court and Peter Thomson (captain of the foretop) started
for the ship, where they arrived at 7 .'M) p.m., and rejoined the next day
at 2 p.m., with a fresh and larger sledge, and a fatigue party, with Mr.
Wynniatt, to carry the damaged one back. (This party, upon my
return, I found did not get on board until the foUowhig day, being
stopped by a heavy snow drift, but, having a tent and provisions, did
not sntFer.) As .>oon as the new comers were refreshed, the sledge was
packed, and by ;{ p.m. we were again olf, eontimiing our course, with-
out any further disaiiter, until iAb p.m. of the L'tith, when we had the

UmH

CAPTAIN M'CLUHli's DKSrATClIliS.

fj;li tlie j)ancake ico,
ith great difficulty.
le boats after each
K'd, so as to insure
;o be relieved could
I., and by midnight
all parties meeting
pquence. I cauiioL
[its, or speak in too
cse admirable little
est facility carried
:cessive roughness,
got across without
relieved, who were
' way provided to
rmometer 8 degrees
very serious ; as it
ind to the British
bly, that I directed
my energetic crew

nee Albert's Land

ir connexion with

iorth-west passage,

avelliiig party, al-

t the vessel might

:he ensuing spring

jj the ice. Aecord-

l started with I\lr.

rt Calder, captain

maintop ; Michael

Thomson, captain

al ^Marines. 'J'hc

lieutenant llaswell

d in carrying the

sledge was Hnally

Wynniatt (mate),

>t off towards the

eight miles, were

got p.moug very

shing it, we pro-

wlien in crossinji

came down with

eky, but, pitching

le foretop) started

ined the next day

c party, with Mr.

party, upon my

)wing day, being

d provisions, did

'd, the sledge was

our course, with-

wheii we had the

extreme gratification of pitching our tent uj)on the shores of Barrow's
Strait, in lat. 73° 31' N., long. 11-1° 39' W. (chronometer), (long.
111° 11' W. lunar), nearly on the line, as represented on the charts,
where Sir Edward Parry has very correctly marked the loom of the
land. Uj)on the following morning, before sunrise, Mr. Court and
myself ascended a small hill, about 000 feet in height, so that we could
command an extensive view of 40 or 50 miles. The extreme point of
Prince Albert's Land bore long. 78° E. true, about 35 miles, the
furthest land N.N.E., 8 miles. The Melville Island shore could not
be discovered, but in that direction the ice ap[)cared to be very heavy,
and the floes exceedingly large. While we were making these observa-
tions the crew were busily engaged erecting a cairn about 15 feet above
the water (which had been named Prince of Wales's Strait, in honour of
his Royal Highness), in which a copper cylinder was deposited. The
spot is so conspictious that any person passing along the shore must
remark it. All being comjdeted by 10 a.m. of the 27th, we turned for
the ship, arriving upon the morning of the 31st, having in nine days
made in a direct line 156 miles by observation, with a temperature of
hetween+7 and— 15 degrees. Upon the afternoon of the 30th the
weather, which had been overcast, suddenly brightened, showing the
Princess Royal Islands, distant about 12 miles. At 3 p.m. I left the
sledge, with the intention of getting early on board, to have everything
in readiness for the comfort of the party, anticipating their arrival at
9 p.m. Unfortunately, the weather became again foggy about 5 p.m., fol-
lowed soon by darkness ; consequently my way was speedily lost, com-
pelling me to wander about the floe during the night, with a temperature
of from 5 to 15 degrees minus, when at 7 the next morning I had the
mortification to find that I had passed the vessel 4 miles, which I
reached by 8.30 a.m., and immediately dispatched a party to assist
IMr. Court, who was at 5 miles distance, having most judiciously en-
oam))ed about 7 miles from the ship when the fog became too dense to
travel.

I was agreeably surprised to learn from Lieutenant llaswell that on
the 2!)th a party, consisting of Messrs. Sainsbury, Paine, Miertsching,
and Newton, while sporting upon Prince All)crt's Land, had encountered
a herd of musk cattle, two bulls, a cow, a heifer, and a calf, and most
adroitly shot the whole, which yielded l,29(jlbs. of excellent nutritious
meat. A supply thus opportune and unexpected may be regarded as a
most favourable termination to our season's operations, in which we
have been nearly enabled to carry out verbatim their Lordships' in-
structions, in reaching the ice by the 1st of August, and establishing a
jjosition near Banks's Land, which service has been performed under
circumstances over which we could exercise but little control, our only
credit consisting in seizing the advantages th.it an Invisible Power scat-
tered along our road through fields of ice, where all human exertion
would have been as unavailing as the feebleness of a child to advance
us one yard.

The winter — that dreary period of the voyage which I had looked
forward to \\ith much apprehension, — passed mildly away, there being
very little snow or wind, without oiu' sanitary state being in the slight* st
degree impaired ; for which happiness I assign these reasons — viz.,

J . The unflagging spirits and cheerfulness of the men.

2. The excellence of every species of provisions.

\- -J ■ ^

CAI'TAIN M'cI.UUK's DKS1>AT( HKS.

■\

i ■

',i. Tlu' free ventilation of the lower deek.

4. The extreme attention of Dr. Arnistrong (npon onr monthly
inspections) to the state of the crew.

So that the montli of March found us in a most healthy and efticietit
condition. Accordingily, npon the .'ird we commenced onr preliminary
duties hy taking a .SO-foot whale-hoat to the larger Princess Hoyal
Islands, where it is my intention to leave three months' provisions for
all hands, that, at the hreaking up of the ice, should the vessel unfor-
tunately get crushed, we may have a certainty to fall hack iipon, which
will enahle us to reach the Plover, without liazard of starvation. This
duty heing completed, as well as the transportiii<>; of another whale-
hoat, hcsides one of Ilalkett's, to the eastern shore, distant ;") miles,
for the facility of allowinj; the travelling parties going along that coast
to reach the islands, should the ice hreak up and carry tiie vessel away
pnring their absence, arrangements were then made for the scarcli-
ing jiarties ; and the weather becoming ver^ 'vonrahle for travelling,
npon the 18th of A))ril three were dispatched under Lieutenant lias-
well, S.E. shore; Lieutenant Cresswcll, N.W. shore; ami Mr. Wymu-
ntt (mate), N.K. shore, with six weeks' ])rovisions each.

At 1 a.m. May 0, Mr. Wymiiatt (mate) having broken his chrono-
meter at the distance of 120 miles from the ship returned ; but all being
in good condition, they were completed to .'}() days' provisions, and at
(i ]).m were again cu route. At the same time, two himtintr parties
with tents, &c., left the ship — one for each side of the Strait, as some
deer had l)een seen, besides some ptarmigan and four hares shot. This
early indication of fresh j)rovisions is a snljjcct of deep congratulation,
independent of the very healthy and exciting occupation for the crew,
who are all eager for the s])ort.

ALiy L'O. — Lieutenant (^resswell returned in consequence of the
severe frost-'oites of two of his men, having reached lat. 7 A° l(i' X.,
long. 117° 40' W., being absent ;j| days; din'ing the greater part of
the time he was snl)ject to strong N.W. winds, sweeping from the Polar
JSea, through Harrow's Strait, which, nu'ctirg him in the face, rendered
it exceedingly ditHcnlt to walk against, the thorniometcr being frecpiently
{•>° below zero. He, however, traced the coast-line, which, for about
70 miles along 15anks's Lainl, was very precipitous, averauing from
1,000 to 1,400 feet, from which it gradually slojjcd to a [joint trending
to S.W., apparently the extreme of the land in that (lireetion, as it
abruptly turned to southwards. An elevation of a thousand feet, aided
hy an exceedingly clear atmosphere, left no doubt in his mind tliat the
Polar Sea was ".tefore him, and that Banks's Land is a part of taring's
Island. He was anxious to make a further advance, and encamp during
two days, with the hope that the invalids wonld recover, but, finding
them getting much worse, he very properly deemed it advisable to
return with all haste to the ship. Before reaching her, however, both
had to be borne upon the sledge, which threw the work u|)on four
men ; when, getting into heavy snow, the otticar had to fall in at the
drag-ropes ; nevertheless, the working-})arty arrived in most excellent
health and spirits.

On the '21st a large bear was killed. Ipon examination of the
stomach an extraordinary medley was discovered, consisting of raisins,
tobacco, pork, and adhesive i)laister, so that I came to the conclusion
that the Enterprise nuist be near, the animal not having been seen

d
A

llMAMiMilil

CAPTAIN M'CLUHk's DESPATCHES.

upon our inoiitlily

[■akhy and efficient
ed our preliminnrv
:er Priiieess Roynl
tlis' provisions for
1 tlie vessel nnCor-
I l)nck upon, wliieli
f starvation. Tliis
of another whale-
, distant ;") miles,
iC alonj; that coast
•ry tiie vessel away
e for the search-
[ihle for travellinu;,
!• Lieutenant llas-
; and Mr. Wynni-
■h.

roken his chrono-
ned ; hut all heinjr
{)rovisions, and at

hnnfinir ftarties
le Strait, as some
hares shot. This
c'p congratulation,
ition lor the ciew,

ise(pu'nce of the
<1 lat. 74° l(i' N.,
le f^reater part of
nu,' from the I'olar
the face, rendered
r heing freipiently

which, for aliout
1, averaging from

a [)oint trending
It direction, as it
lusand feet, aided
his nnnd tiiat the

{)ait of JJaring's
id encamp tluring
over, hut, finding

1 it anvisahle to
er, however, hoth

work upon four
to fall in at the
n most excellent

nnnation of the
isting of raisins,
to the conclusion
aving Ijcen seen

before near our dirt-heap, nor were there any traces of him about the
ship. 1 therefore determined to send a i»arty to the S.W., the only
direction we had no travellers, to satisfy myself upon the subject.
Accordingly, at 6 p.m. on the 2'Jnd, Lieutenant Cresswell and his party,
completed with two fresh hands, were again dispatched with provisions
until June 10.

Upon the 2'lth the above mystery was satisfactorily solved. Some
men, in pursuit of a bear about half a mile from the ship, picked up a
preserved meat-tin, with articles in it identical with those found in the
stomach of the bear killed on the 21st; the foot-prints of the animal
were likewise abundant on the snow. 'I'his evidence was perfectly
conclusive as to the locality where bruin had obtained his dainties.
This being the anniversary of the birthday of Her JNIost Gracious
Majesty, a Royal salute was fired, and tlie colours displayed, in
celel)ration of the event.

2yth.— Lieutenant llaswell and party returned, all in the most
]»erfect health, having traced the coast towards Wollfiston Land, to lat.
70" 38' N., long., 115° \V., from which point, the day l>eing remark-
nbly clear, he observed the outline of land to the distance of full 40
miles trending to the S.W., but having advanced 2.5 days, he considered
it prudent to proceed no further. Two large inlets and a deep bay
were examined, besides an archi|)elago of small islands ah)ng the northern-
most shore of the southernmost inlet, which is high, bold, and stratified,
each inlet trending to the E.N.E. from 80 to 1)0 miles. The whole
coast was strewn with driftwood, and many vestiges of Esquimaux
encampments were met with, but of a very old date. Upon returning
he was most surprised to find a party, consisting of 18 natives,
encamped upon the ice, a few miles from the N.W. point of the
northernmost inlet, in quest of seals. They were very friendly and
well-disposed, but, not understanding each other, no information
could be obtained. They exchanged a few presents, and upon that
day week he arrived on board, having remained out his 42 days,
thereby fulfilling his instructions to the letter. In consequence of the
above, I immediately decided upon proceeding to these people, for the
purpose of ol)taining information that might determine the question
relating to the I'rince Albert's, WoUaston, and Victoria Lands, as to
their forming part of the American continent, or whether each was an
island ; therefore, taking Mr. Miertsching (our invaluable interpreter),
and 12 days' provisions, at 6 p.m. we started, and early on June 3rd
fell in with them, about 10 miles to the northward of the point where
they were first met with. They conversed freely with the interpreter,
giving every information we rejjuired relative to the trending of the
coast as far as they knew, which was some distance along Victoria
Land ; this they did by tracing upon a large sheet of paper, which I
brought for that purpose, continuing a sketch which Mr. Miertsching
had made from the ship to their ',ents, which they immediately compre-
hended, and, as they were very particular in placing the islands of
Sutton and Liston, with three smaller ones not mentioned in the
chart, off Wollaston Land, I am fully persuaded of its correctness, and
oidy regretted that they could not go further (a tracing of which accom-
panies this narrative). They descril)e a large land opposite Wolkstoa,
called " Nunavaksaraluk ;" this, of course, is America, to which they
had never been, as they only trade with the Esquimaux to the S.E.,

•21

CArTAlN m'CLUUK's DESl'AK Ill'.S.

' ?^

-i

il :j

;j [

nor lind tlioy tlic sli^ihtcst nrtitle of Euro])can iiiniiiiriiotiiro about tlioiii ;
the use nnd sight of irou was perfectly now, all their iMij)U'ineiits heiiiu;
eopper— their spears and arrows harhed with the same. The ropjicr
ore is reniiirknhly fine (hut, not observing any Avhen at the tents, the
specimen being given nie by one of our men some time after (piittiug
them), unfortunately, we lost the opjjortunity of in(piiring where it
was procured ; but 1 am inclined to think that it comes from the south-
east tribes, iu their bartering transactions, as the few ami simple orna-
nu'Uts which they possessed were of that metal, and ohtaiiu'd thence.
These :irc a kind, simjde, nnd purely pastoral tril)e, devoid of the
knavish ])ropensities which so strongly charncterisc those upon the
Mackenzie and Colville, where intercourse with civilized man Iims
denu)ralizcd the savage. Upon dis})laying the presents brought for
them, the utmost propriety was ol>servc(l ; although, dottbtless, all were
anxious to ])articipate in tbese treasures, there was not that eagerness to
seize, which rendered our interchange with the other Kscpiininux so
troiddesomc ; so far was it from these to do so, tliat it was with diili-
cidty we could persuade them to accept them without our receiving an
e(puvalent, they iiupuring of the interpreter, af'ter each article was given
tliem, what we wanted for it. A piece of scarlet cloth, vtluch I tied
round a girl's neck, remained there until we were going away, wiien she
ran up to Mr. Miertsching to ask what she was to give in exchange,
nnd, when assured it was a gilt from the chief, she gracefully acknow-
ledged it with a smile. No weajjons were observed atiioug them, except
for the chase ; their whole denu'anour bespoke peace. They live near
their ])resent locality the whole year, not going any fuitiier to the
Horthward, nor do they believe that there are any others in that diree-
lion ; but to the S.E., along Victoria and M'ollnston Land, the coast is
thickly populated. It apj)ears very extraordinary that they do
not even possess traditionary legends of their ancestors having
been north, where the numerous traces whieii we meet with n])on botli
sides of the Straits, as well as on the liirtre rrineess lioval Island, show
that at one period the whole of this coast must have been densely
pojudatCL Their language, Mr. Miertsching observes, is identical
with that spv ken uj)on the Labrador coast. At half-past !) o'clock we
left this interesting people on our return to the ship, which we reached
at 7 p.m. of the r)th, exceedingly gratified !)y the result of our pleasant
excursion, our only misfortune being Cornelius Ilullott, my coxswain,
having both feet badly frost-nIp|)ed. At Tj a.m. of the 7th. Mr.
AVvnniatt (mate) returned with his i)artv, haviuij been fiftv (havs under
the tent. From his exploration of a portion of the south-eastern shores
of Barrow's Strait, as far as lat. 72" (i' N., long. ID/" 4'J' W. (DM ),
whence the land was observed for about IT) miles, trending to theN.E.,
after rounding Point Peel, lat. 73" 21' N., long 1 12" 30' W., the nortli-
west point of Prince Albert's Land, he reports it to be in all respects,
as to formation, the same as in this vicinity, for the distance of ai)out
'10 miles, when, u])on crossing a deep inlet, the land assumed a nortb-
west aspect, and became high, precipitous, and l)arren. No drift-wood
of any description was met with, but the ice lay against its base in
lieavy and unbroken niasses. Further to the eastward a lesser one was
circumambulated, liaving in it several small islands, with its southern
shore formed of str.itified cliff, having an elevation of about SOO feet.
Upon the 10th, at 7.1.') a.m., Lieutenant Cresswell and parly, having

CAi'iAiN M'cLfiiic's Dfc;HrAr<'iii;s.

or,

'iicture !il)out tlioui ;
ir iiiipk'inciits Ijcini;
5niiic. Tlie oopjicr
11 at the tents, the
time nl'ter (|uittiii!j;
iiKliiiriiii; where it
lies tVoiu the soutli-
w niid siin|)U' onin-
1(1 ol)taiiie(l tliciice.
il)e, devoid of the
sc tliose (ipoii the
eivilized man hsis
•esents broiiirht for
, do\d)tless, all were
ot tliat eajii'iiu'ss to
[her Esqiiiinaiix so
it it was with diili-
)\it our reeeiviii!^ an
eh nrtiele was i;iven
cloth, v'.iich I tied
ilia; nway, when she
<;ive in exehaiipe,
gracefully acknow-
inionp: them, except
ee. They live near
any fnitiier to the
thcrs in that diree-
1 Land, llie coast is
ry that they do
ancestors liaviiii>;
"t with n])on both
oyal Island, show
lave been densely
serves, is ideiitierd
past !) o'clock wo
which we reached
It of our pleasant
(itt, my coxswain,
of the 7tli. Mr.
n fifty days under
nth-eastern shores
7"4'2'\\. (DM),
ndiiig to tlie X.H.,
30' W., the iiorth-
e in all respects,
distance of about
[issumed a north-
No drift-wood
rainst its base in
d a lesser one was
rtith its southern
f about SOO feet,
uid party, haviin;

completed their l!) days, returned from their search towards tlie S.W.,
to lat. 71" 10' N., lon;^. r2;i"4' W., making, in the aggregate, ;")()" under
the tent, during vvhicli he had coasted three sides of IJaring's Island,
from the north shore of which he looked ujion the Polar Sea, and upon
the south walked 24 miles on it ; both jnesenting the same smooth
surface, which I consider to be attributable to the long jirevalence of
north-easterly winds, at the termination of the navigable season setting
the heavy ice, which we encountered, and saw resting upon the western
side of the island, over to the American and Asiatic shores, which may
cause the great difficulty in rounding Point liarrow late in the season.
TJnfortnnately the weather became overcast, which limited his view to
the northward, only allowing him to observe that the coast was liigh
and bold. Ujion this excursion he met with four partitions of the ice,
varying in breadth from 10 to 20 feet, ap)iarently running across the
strait ; but, being provided with one of Ilalkett's valuable little boats,
this obstacle, which would otherwise have caused a detour of many
miles, was easily overcome. It is imj)ossible to recommend these boats
too highly upon a service of this description, where every article of
weight is objectionable. Their whole fitting is but 2."dbs. AVlien not
recpiired they form n ])latforin on the sledge to stow the baggage, and
when in use they are carried infiated upon the top. Thus, on two
occasions, they liavo been of essential service, without the smallest
inconvenience. Lieutenant Cresswell erected a cairn, and deposited a
cylinder within it, Tipon a low beach near Cape Lambton ; he also
remarked the vestiges of Escpiimaux cncam])inents upon almost every
jiart of the coast upon whic' he pitched his tent for the night, many of
them thickly strewn with the heads of musk oxen, which denotes no
paucity of those animals upon these lands: indeed, at the jiresent
lime both shores of the strait are covered with wild fowl of every
descrijition, musk oxen, deer, hares, ptarmigan, and golden plover.
This is certainly the most fertile part of the Polar regions, and must
be the breeding-place of those animals, which find rich pasturage
among its alluvial plains and valleys, unmolested by the Esquimaux,
the traces of whose remains, being overgrown with moss, and rotten,
have reference to a time long anterior. This party, with much spirit
and zeal, performed their return journey of upwards of IGO miles in
nine days and a-lialf, under circmnstances reflecting much credit upon
them, the lateness of the season being luifavourable to so rapid an
advance. All being now on board and in excellent health, with the
exception of three of the travellers suffering from frost-nips, our
season's travelling operations may be considered to have terminated
fortunately ; and, from the close examination which has been made
over a vast extent of coast, the direct distance of which, by observa-
tion, embraces 800 miles, to which a third may be added for the
devious windings of the coast-line, without observing the slightest
vestiges of .any spar, or other indication of civilized man h.aving
reached these shores, I am fully confident that the missing expedi-
tion under Sir John Franklin, lias never penetrated towards the Polar
Sea in this direction, as some portion of the immense mass of stores,
spars, or fitments, with which those ships were provided must have
been jiieked up, when driftwood oi very inconsiderable dimensions
<lid not escape observtition. (A chart, showing the extent of discovery
and course of each searching- jiarty, accompanies this letter.)

a«)

CAl'iAIN M'cI.IUk's DKSl'ATCllliS,

lii

I am also of oj)iuinn that Priiico Albert's Lntid is part of the con-
tinent of America, and that Point Peel is its north-west extremity, and
that the land thence is contiiuions to ('ape Walker ; the pecnliar
formation of its shores, from the very deep iidets which run into
the interior, give the a|)penrance of straits which in reality do not
exist, as was apparently the case between Victoria and Wollaston
Lands, and which is very probably the same between Cape Walker
and North Somerset, ^iy opinion is strengthened by the Kscpiimanx
upon this coast speaking the same langnage as those of Hndson's
Straits, which Mr. Miertsching, the interpreter, thoronghly nnder-
stands, and conversed flnently with them, while with those of the
C'olville, and Cape Bathnrst he fonnd it sometimes dilficalt to do so.
(Jonsecpiently, I think it very probable that the forefathers of these
have crossed from Hudson's Straits, and kept the coast line of Vic-
toria and WoUaston Land, and luive thus retained tiie purity of
their langnage, which those upon the north coast of America have
lost, by constant intercourse with the Indians. I icrtainly should have
considered it my duty to endeavour to ilecide this j)()int by detaching n
boat through the Dolphin and Union Straits, but I feel assmed that
that service was accomplished by Dr. line last year, as he evidently
was not in this direction.

During the absence of the searching parties the refitting of tlie
ship was carried on, under the direction of Messrs. Sainsbnry (mate)
and ('ourt (second master) ; so that upon their return little remained
but to get the boats from the eastern shore, and the tents ami ap-
jmrtenances, which the shooting j)arties had upon each side of the strait,
on board, the weather being unfavourable, and the state of the ice
becoming too precarious to allow of any persons being so far distant
from the ship. This being effected, as also the repairing and painting
of a boat which is to be left with the provisions at the large I'rincess
Royal Island completed upon the I.'kli, we had the satisfaction of
having every one on board, with the vessel thoroughly refitted, caulked,
l)aiuted, and watered, and in every respect as efficient for the service we
have to perform as the day that we quitted Plymouth, with a trifling
sick-list, principally from the elfects of frost- nips and foot-soreness
from the travelling. We now wait, with no little anxiety, the disruption
of these mighty masses of ice by which we are encircled, and the con-
sequences depending upon that event, which cannot be contemjdated
without deep apprehension.

The first indication of open water occurred to-day (July 7th), extending
some distance along the shore of Prince Albert's Laud, about a mile in
width. The ice in every direction is so rapidly decaying, being much
accelerated by sleet and rain, with a thermometer standing at 4;)°,
that by the 14th that which for the last few days had been slightly in
motion, with large spaces of water intervening, suddenly and noiselessly
opened around the vessel, leaving her in a pond of 40 yards ; but, seeing
no i)osisii)ility of getting without its limits, we were compelled to secure
to the floe which had for 10 months befriended us, and, with the whole
of tiie pack, gradually drifted to the southward, towards the Princess
IJoyal Islands, which we passed on the eastern side within half a mile.
Cpon the 1 7th, at 10 a.m., being among loose ice, we cast off from the
Hue and made sail, with the hoj)e of getting upon the western shore,
where the water ajjpeared to be making, but without shippiuy the rudder,

■^

I t

C'.Vl'l'AlN M'Cl.UUl'.'s hr.sl'AlcilKS.

'27

pnrt of till' con-
ft I'xtrcriiity, imd
r ; the peculiar
wlilch run into
n renlity do not
luul XVollaston
n Cnpe Walker
y tlic l']s(|uiinaiix
)se of Hudson's
oront!;hly under-
:li those of the
ifficult to do so.
ff'athcrs of these
)!»st line of Vie-
d the purify of
f America have
linly should have
t hv detachiui' a
feel assured that
as he evidently

refitting of the
lainshury (mate)
1 little remained
le tents and ap-
side of the strait,
stale of the ice
t; so far distant
iug and painting
le large Princess
' satisfaction of
efitted, caulked,
>r the service we
with a trifhng
lid foot-soreness
k the disruption
(1, and the cou-
pe conteiii})lated

7th), extending

aliout a mile in

|ng, heing much

tanding at 4a°,
Iheen slightly in
and noiselessly

hds ; but, seeing

jpelled to secure
with the whole
Is the Princess

liiu half a mile.
ist off from the
western shore,
\uv^ the rudder,

in e )nse(pieuce of heing in the vicinity of several large Hoi-s, and at 2 p.m.
again secured to a tloe between the Princess Royal and Baring's Islands
(we passed over a shoal having 1 i) fathoms). On the 20th, at 1 1 .'M) a.m.,
a light air sprang up from the S.V»'., which, slacking the ice, gave
hopes of making progress to the N.E., in which dire(!tiou I was auxiims
to get for the purpose of entering Barrow's Stndt, that, according to
eircumstaiiees, 1 might be enabled to carry out my original intentions of
])roceediug to the northward of Melvdle Island, as detailed in my letter
to the Secretary of the Admiralty of July 20, 1H.)0, or, should such not
he jnactieahle, return to England through the strait. The ship was cast
off, and a mile gained, when the wind died away, and we were again
beset. On the morning of the 22nd, open water appearing in the IS'.K.,
the rudder was shipped in expectation of a start, which was not, how-
ever, realised until the afternoon of the 2'M'd, when a light S.W. wind
set the ice to the N.E., carrying us over a shoal upon which there was
much ice grounded in 1,'} fathoms; the corner of the floe to wliich we
were attached coming in contact with some of these masses, gave way,
throwing jiieees of 12 feet and Id feet scpiarc completely out of the water.
It grazed the hard bottom with a sound not unlike distant thunder, as
it crashed, crumbled, and upheaved, throwing an enormous mound up in
its centre, as if under the influence of volcanic agency, and then rent
asunder, the part we were secured to remaining firmly grounded, while
the other and lighter jiortion, l)eiiig forced onwards with accelerated
speed, came direct for our unprotected stern. To let go warps and
nnehors was but the work of a minute, and most fortunate were we in
accomplishing it, as, ere they could be g.;t on board, it struck the stern,
forcing the ship ahead at tlie rate of 2 knots. A small sjiace of open
water, occasioned by the grounding of the floe, allowed of our advance ;
when, by warping and towing, we speedily got beyond its influence.
Had our position been I'jss favourable, nothing could have saved the
vessel from momentary destruction, and at 11.30 p.m., with a breeze
from the S.E., we made sail tlirough laige leads of water towards the
eastern side of the strait, and by tlie afternoon of the 24th had nearly
reached Poii\t Armstrong, upon which the ice was resting, where our
course was cheeked. Tliere was much driftwood on the beach of large
diniensious, mostly American pine. The cutter was consequently dis-
patched for a load, and some of the pieces appeared so fresh, that Mr.
Pord, the carpenter, was of opinion that two years was the extreme of
their quitting the forest. The wind veering to the westward during the
night, set large bodies of ice into the water we occupied, which was
rapidly filling. To prevent being forced on shore, we were obliged at
8 a.m. of the 25th to run into the pack, where we drifted, according to
the tide, about a mile and a half from the beach ; but during the 24
hours made about two miles and a half to the W.E., from which I am
of opinion, when taken with the quantity of driftwood that is thickly
strewn along the beach, that on this side of the strait there is a slight
current to the north-east, while upon the opposite one it sets to the
southward, ufion which there is scarcely any wood, and cur progress,
while similarly situated, was in a southern direction. We continued
drifting in the pack, without meeting any obstruction, until 10 a.m. of
the 1st of August, when a sudden and most unexpected motion of the
ice swept us with much velocity to the north-east, towards a low point
off which were several shoals awash, having many heavy pieces of

CAl'TAiN m'i i.riiK's i)i;si'Arciii;rt.

|!i H

i^H

groiindi'd ice upon them, towards which wc were directly soltiiij;, do-
crt'iisinp; the souudiups from -l to !)J f'afhoins. Destruction wns,
nppnrciitly, not fur distnut, when, most opportimely, tlie ice ceased n
httle, and, a fresh wind coniiiip; from tin' laiul, sail was imnn'(Uateiy
made, wliieli, assisted hy warps, enal)Ied tlie pliip to l)e forced aliead
nhont 200 yards, which shot ns clear of ice and point into l<!,^ fallioms,
in which water we ronnded the shonls ; the ice then ap;ain closed, and
the ship Itecame fixed until the Mth, when the fog, which since the
previous day had hcen very dense, cleared, and discovered open water
ahout half-n-niilc from the vessel, witli the ice loose alicut her ; at noon
commenced warping, nnd at '.i p.m. jiassed into it with a light l)reeze
from the north-east that carried tis some distance along ilr.' eastern shore.
At 1 1 p ni. the fog was so thick that we were compelled to make fast to
a tloe, having, wh'Ie standing in shore, stirred up the mud while in stays,
shooting from no soundings at 2i^> fathoms to a (piarter less '.i, which
convinced me of the impracticability of remaining under way, as, had wc
heen set on the beach, the ice, which (;ame in before a freshening north-
easter out of Harrow's Strait, would most effectually have detained ns
tliere. I'revionsly to quitting the floe 1 was desirous of trying what
etVect blasting would have npofi such a n:i » •. A jar, containing 'M) lbs.
of powder, was letdown 12 feet into the water near the centre; the
average thickness was 1 1 feet, and its diameter JOO yards. The result
was most satisfactory, rending it in every direction, so that with the
greatest ease we could eifect a passage through any ])art of it. August 1 .'".,
at S a.m., the ibg cleared a little, wliieh showed the base of the eliil's
very close, altlumgh wc were in 42 fathoms. Having water to the
westward, we instantly nuule sail in that ipuu'ter, and at 11 a.m., being
nnal)le to see in any direction, again made fast, having carried awny the
spankerboom in breaking through a neck of ice, whieli forced the vessel
iVom the wind, causing it to jibe. Our soundings increased to ()2 fathoms,
and the ice was ascertained to be setting bodily a mile and a half an hour
to the west- south-west, so that, uj)ou the weather clearing, at lU) minutes
a.m. of the IGth we found the vessel had been drifted 1.') miles to the
south-west. As there was, however, water to the eastward, every exer-
tion was made to reach it hy warping, and at .'? a.m. succeeded, working
along the eastern shore to ascertain what probability existed of being
able to round the pack, and thus get into Jiarrow's Strait, from whicli
we were not distant more than 2;") miles. At 9 a.m. all hoj)es disap-
])eared, as a clear view from tlie crow's-nest discovered the ice to be
closely ])acked, resting upon Point Lady Rose, extending in one unhrnken
line to the opposite side of the strait. This determined me to give uj»
all idea of prosecuting our search in this direction. Having heen foiled
in attempting this passage the latter end of one season nnd at the com-
mencement of another, I considered it not practicable, except under the
favourable circumstance of a continuance of south-westerly winds, wliich
would drive the ice into Barrow's Strait ; but I imagine there would be
little diificulty in coming from the north-east, from which quarter we
found the winds prevail. Our greatest advance in that direction was
lat. 73° 13' 43" N., long. 115° 32' 30" \V. Accordingly, at 9.30 a.m.
we bore np with the intention of running to the southward of Nelson's
Head, and continuing our search along the western side of Baring's
Island, with the hope of reaching the entrance of Barrow's Strait by that
route ; as, from the report of Lieutenant Cresswell, I felt convinced that

t'i

•cctly spiting, do-
Dost nictioii WflS,
(111! ice ci'iispd a
wns iiniiiciliatc'ly
lie foiTi'd aiii'iid
iiti) ll>i fiitliomH,
np;uii) closed, and
wliicli Ninco tliu
»ered <»|)en water
cut her ; at noon
li A lijjlit Ijreeze
ill'.' eastern shore.
(1 to make last to
ind while in ntays,
ter U'ss '.i, wliich
r way, as, liad w(>
Iresheninj; north-
have di'tained ns
i of tryinjc what
'ontaininu; ,S(i Ihs.
• the centre ; tlie
u'ds. Tiie res nit
so tiint with the
)t' it. Antjnst I.''.,
I)ase of the cliOs
in<; water to the
at 1 1 a. 111., heinuj
carried away the
ibreed the vessel
ed to ()'J t'athouis,
lid a half an hour
ng, at M) iiiiniites
il If) miles to the
ward, every exer-
leceeded, working
existed of heiiig
rait, from whicli
all hopes disap-
ed the ice to be
i; in one unbroken
d me to give uji
aving been foiled
and at the com-
except under the
:;rly winds, which
c there would be
vhich quarter we
lat direction was
jly, at 9.30 a.m.
ward of Nelson's
side of 13ariug's
iv's Strait by that
It convinced that

CAl'TAIN M'i;i,I'IU:'b DKSPATt lltCH.

•20

■4

by Hanks's Land there was a passage from the Polar Sea. .At I p.m.
paMsed the I'rincess Hoyal Islands with a fine breeze ; not a partiili' of
ice to bo seen in any direction, which only a month previously hiid
presented enormous Hoes, and heavy grounded masses lying against their
base and upon the shoal connecting tlu'in, which we considereil had been
there for years, and likely to remain for many more ; even the huge
jtieces which had l)een thrown \ipon the eastern shore had vanished ; so
that every vestige of that formidable element had passed away which for
nearly I I months had held us in its trammels.

Upon the l"th, while near Nelson's Head, with a fine breeze from the
south-east, we ex[)erienced a heavy swell from that direction, causing the
vessel to pitch the hawse-holes under and send the sea as far aft as the
fore-hatchway. A circmnstauce so unusual was hailed as a favourahh!
omen, being a convineing proof that we were in much open water ; and
at IL.'iOp.m. wo rounded the head. The land for about '2't mdesto the
««'stward is remarkably bold and lofty, where Cape Lamliton, jetting out
and rising perpendicularly 1,01)0 feet, presents a grand termimitioii to it
in that direction ; whence it gradually recedes to the north-west, where
it loses this bold character, partaking more of that remarked in the
Trince of Wales's Strait, being rauge« of hills, gradually sloping from
the interior to the shore, having fine valleys and extensive plains, several
small, and one considerable river, the water from the latter discolouring the
sea two miles from its mouth ; likewise many small lakes and harbours,
which, however, woidd be only of utility for boats, as a heavy surf was
breaking across their entrances. Much driftwood strewed the beach,
and the laud was well covered with verdure, ujiou which were large Hocks
of geese feeding, while ducks were flying iu great numbers, and 1 have
little doubt that a walk a short distance inland would have discovered
henls of deer and musk oxen. Nothing that was on the coast could
escape observation, nor could anything be more favourable for the object
we had in view, as, with a fair wind and fine clear weather, we ran along
it from one to two miles distant.

At 4 p.m. of the ISth, being off a very low spit of sand (Point
Kellelt), which extended to the westward for about twelve miles in the
form of a horseshoe, having its seaside thickly studded with grounded
ice, while the interior was exempt from any, I sent Mr. Court (second
master) to examine it, who reported an excellent and commodious har-
bour, well sheltered from N.W. to south, carrying five fathoms within
10 yards of the beach, which was shingle, and covered with driftwood.
A set of sights was obtained, and a cask containing a notice was left
there; its position lat. 71" ^6' N., long. 125" 2!)' W. From this the
land turns abruptly N. by E., and a great change takes place in its
general aspect, generally becoming low and fiat, so that near the beach
it is scarcely discerniljle, resembling separate sand-banks, but, upon
closing it, a low spit, barely above the level of the water was remarked
connecting them. The lead may be considered as an infallible guide
along the whole of this coast, as the soundings are regular from 3 to
30 fathoms, at from one to four miles off shore.

Upon the morning of the 19th we left this low coast, and passed
between two small islands lying at the entrance of what ajipeared.
a deep inlet, running E.S.I']., and then turning shaij) to the
N.E. It had a barrier of ice extending across, which prevented
any examination. "Wishing to keep belweeii the northenuuost of

r I

;s()

TAl'IAIN m'( UIIK'm KI; I',\T( iir.s.

t1i'.*s(> islands niul the iiiaiiiland, to nvoiil tlif pack, wliii-li was
very near it, we iiainiwly I'scaniMl p'ltill^ ou short', as a net'
(Alt'iitlcd iVotii tlic latter to witliiii lialC a iiiilc of tlir island.
Koitonattly, tlii" wind hiini; lijilit, we nunidrd to will; all llio
sttid(lin<; sails set, and let ^o tin* anclior in two and ii hall' t'athoins,
having about tour inches to spare nnder the keel, and warped into I'onr ;
while Mr. (lonrt was sei!t to lind a channel, in which he succeeded,
carryin<; three t'athonis, through which wx> ran tor one mile, and theii
coiilinned onr course in eiy;ht, havini; from three to liv»' miles hetween
the ice nnd land. At H p.m. \vc neared two other islands, the ice
restinj; upon the westernmost, upon which the pressure must have
hceu excessive, as lar^e masses were forced nearly over its summit,
which was upwards of II) feet, lietweeu these and the main we ran
through a chaiuiel in from nine to tifteen fathoms, when an imnu'diate
nnd marked ehnuge took place in the {^'ueral appearance and forma-
tion of the laiul ; it became hii;h, preci|»ifous, sterile, and rnjru;c<l,
intersected with deep ravines ami watercourses, havinj; (i."» fathoms
at n (piarter of a ntile, and 15 fathoms 101) yards from the clilVs,
which |)roved exceedinjrly fortunate, as the whole pack, which had
apj)arently only just broken fnnn the shore, was within half a mile,
and in immy places so close to it that, to avoid uetting beset, we had
nearly to touch the land. Indeed, upon several occasions, the boats
were compelled to be topped up, and |ioles used to keep the vessel olV
the f^rounded ice, which exteiuls all along this coast ; nor could we
round to, fearful of carryinu; the jibboijui away against its clill's, which
here run nearly east and west. The cape forndnu; its western extreme,
I have called Prince Alfred, in honour of his Uoyal Highness. There
were two apparently good harbours about JO miles to the eastward of
the cape; the wester. nnost had a breakwater halfa-niile in length,
twenty feet high, facing the north, with entrances on its east and west
sides about sixty yards in breadth ; the other was isircular, about thre(r-
(piarters of a mile in diameter, with its entrance on the west side.
Our critical position would not admit of any ditcntioii, otherwise they
would have been sounded, being very anxious to find a secure retreat
iu the event of Iiaving to winter on this coast. The weather had been
fine, with a S.E. wind, which veered to the W.S.W., bringing fog nnd
rain ; so that on the morning of the '20th onr further progress was
imj)eded by finding the ice resting u|)on a point, which formed a slight
iudeutntion of the shore, and was the only j)lace where water could
be seen. To prevent being carried away with the pack, which was
filling up its space, we secured to the inshore side of n small but
heavy j)iece of ice, grounded in twelve fathoms, 71 yards from the
beach — the only proteeti(m against the tremendous Polar ice (setting a
knot per hour to the eastward before a fresh westerly wind), which at
9 p.m. placed us in a very critical position, by a large fioe striking the
piece we were fast to, and causing it to oscillate so considerably, that a
tongue, which happened to be under our bottom, lifted the vessel six
feet ; but, by great attention to the anchors nnd warps, we succeeded in
holding on during the conflict, which was continued several minutes,
termin.nting by the floe being rent in j)ieccs and our being driven nearer
the beach. From this until the 2!)th we lay perfectly secure, but at
S a.m. of that day the ice began suddeidy to move, when a large floe
which must have caught the [)iece to which we were attached under

large

(Al'IAIN M'lTUIIK'b DKSt'ATCIIKH,

lii'h WM

i<* a reef

i> iNlmitl.

till iIm!

t'atliniiis,
iito t'oiil' ;
iicct't'iUMl,

niid tlicii
s ln'twccii
1, tin- ici!
iiist liavo
I sunitnit,
lin we rail
iniucdiatu
lul tbriiia-
1 nijrunl,
CatlKiiiis
till' I'lin's,

liicli had
lit' a mile,
't, we liad

flic lioals
' Vl'riSid olV

cdiild \vc
lis, wliirii
I I'XtrciiK',
s. There
istw.ird of

III

ltM|i,'ll

and NM'st
)iit thre(!-

c'st side,
wise they
re retreat

iiad heeii
t; f'oji; and
ijre.ss was
'd a sli};ht
Iter coidd

lieh \\!\a
small but

t'roin the
(setting a
, which at
iking the
)ly, tliat a

vessel six
acceded in
I minutes,
len nearer
u'e, hut at

large ihw

led under

one of its overhanging ledge.s, raised it perptMidieular .'JO feet, pre-
Henting to all on hoard a most frightful aspeet. An it asecndcd nhovc
the forevard, iiiiieh a|ipreheii.->ion was felt that it might he thrown eoiii-
pli'lely oM-r, when the ship must have heen crushed heneath it. 'i'liin
MiisneiiMu was hut lor a tew minuteH, as the floe rent, carrying away
witii it a large piete from the foimdation of our asvlum, when it ra\e
several feart'ul rolls ami resumed its former position ; hut, no Ioniser
capable of resisting the pressure, it was hurried onward with the drift-
ing mass. Our proximity to the shore compelled, as our only hopes of
safety, the absolute necessity of holding to it ; we conseipU'iitly secured
with a chain stream and hemp cable three six and two tive-ineh hawsers,
three of which were passed round it. In this state we wtre lorced
along, sinking large pieces beneath the bottmu, and sustaining a heavy
strain against the stern and rudder; the latter was much damaged, i.'.it
to unship it at present was impossible. At I p.m. t)ie pressure eased,
from the iee becoming stationary, when it was unlut ig and laid npnn a
large lloe piece, where, by S p.m., owing to the activity of Mr. lord,
the carpenter, who is always ready to meet any emergiiicy, it was
repaired, just as thir ice began again to be in motion ; but as the tackles
were hooked, it was run up to the davits without further damage. We
were now setting fiist upon another large piece of a broken lloe,
grounded in nine fathoms upon the debris formed at the mouth of a
large river. Feeling eonfident that should we be caught between this
and what we were fast to, tin; ship nuist inevitably go to pieces, and
vet being aware that to cast off would certainly send us on the beach,
from which we were never distant iSO yards, upon which the smaller
iee was hurled as it came in contact with these grounded masses, 1 sent
,)(din Kerr (gnimer's mate), under very difficult circumstances, to
endeavour to reach it and effect its destruction by blasting. He could
not, however, find a suitieient space of water to sink the charge, but
remarking a large cavity upon the sea face of the floe, he fixed it there,
which so far succeeded that it slightly fractured it in three places,
which at the moment was scarcely ouservable from the heavy pressure
it was sustaining. Jiy this time the vessel was within a few feet of it,
and everyone was on deck in anxious suspense, awaiting what was
apparently the crisis of our fate. Most fortunately, the sternpost took
it so fairly that the pressure was fore and aft, bringing the whole
strength of the shij) to bear ; a heavy grind which shook every mast,
and caused beams and decks to complain as she trembled to the
violence of the shock, plainly indicated that the struggle would be but
of short duration. At this moment the stream cable was carried away,
and several anchors drew. Thinking that we had now sutticiently
risked the vessel, orders were given to let go all the warps, and with
this order I had made u)) my mind that in a few minutes she would be
on the beach ; but, as it was sloping, conceived she might still prove
an asylum for the winter, and possibly be again got afloat, while, should
she be crushed between these large grounded pieces, she must inevi-
tably go down in ten fathoms, which would be certain destruction to
all ; but before the orders could be obeyed, a merciful Providence inter-
posed, causing the ice, which had been previously weakened, to separate
into three pieces, and it floated onward with the mass, our stern still
tightly jammed against, but now protected by it. The vessel, wliieh had
been thrown over lij degrees, and risen 1 foot 8 hiches, now righted and

;;

.1 ■

32 CAl'TAiN M'cLUUK's DICSPATCIIKS.

settled in the water ; the only dnmage sustained was several sheets of cop-
per ripped off and rolled u]) like a sheet of paper, Ijut not a fastening
had given way, nor docs any leakaj^e indieate tlie sliu;htest defect, iiy
niidni<:;ht the'icc was stationary and everything quiet, which continned
luitil the lOth of Se))tend)er ; indeed, from the tenii)erature having
fallen to 1(5 degrees, with all the appearance of the setting in of tlio
winter, I considered our further progress sto|)ped initil next year. The
crew were enii)loyed collecting halhist (of which they obtained ."i') tons),
and other arrangements making for such an event. Shooting and other
parties made daily excursions iidand ; in which randjles an exceetlingly
old Esquimaux encampment was met Avith, and n most interesting dis-
covery of a range of hills, composed of one entire mass of wood in
every stage, from a petrifaction to a log fit for firewood. Many large
trees were among it, but, in endeavouring to exhume them, they were
found to be too much decayed to stand removal ; the largest piece that
we have been able to bring away being .S feet 10 inches in girth, and
seven in length. These were found by Messrs. Sainshury and Piers, at
an elevation of 300 feet above the beach (in lat 74' 27' N., long. ]22"
32' 1.5" W.), which is strewed with chips and small bits of wood, as
are the watercourses and ravines as far as any person has walked iidand,
evidently washed down by the thaw from these 'igneous hills. The
country has fine valleys, well covered with verdure, and at some period
of the year must be frequented by large herds of animals, as the heads
of musk oxen and the well-|)ieked carcasses of deer are everywhere met
with, many quite fresh. Two large wolves were disturbed in the act of
finishing a fawn which they had just killed, but only two musk oxen
were seen, besides a few hares and ptarmigan shot by our parties. To-
day the temperature, from a change of wind to the southward, rose to
3!) degrees, accompanied by rain, which had the etfect of so loosening
the ice that the main pack separated from the shore, about half a-mile
from the ship, opening a lane of water al)out Hi miles to the eastward,
varying in breadth from .00 to 200 yards, which, however, did not |>ro-
niise any release to the vessel, until 1 l-.OO p.m. (while the officer of the
watch and quarter-master were examining the tide ])ole fixed on the
beech, through u hole cut in the ice, about 40 yards from the shore, it
j)uzzled them both to find that they could not keep the gauge erect, as
it slipped from their hands while endeavouring to do so) when it noise-
lessly opened, and we drifted towards the pack, which it was impossible
to avoid, and were carried to the N.3']. a knot per hour, at the distance
of half-a-mile from the shore, in soundings from 107 to 134 fathoms;
all methods b^ warps and saws to extricate the vessel from her p( rilous
position proving abortive, having nnxsses of ice firndy frozen to her
bottom. Kecoiu'se was had to gunpowder, which fortunately effected
her release by the expenditure of 1.^0 lbs. in charges of from 3 lbs. to
2() lbs., according to tiie distance from the vessel, which by any other
means could not have been achieved. This saved us from being set
against the thick grounded ice which was resting upon Point Colquhoun
— certain destruction — into which we should have been hurried by five
minutes' longer detention, having barely time to make sail and shoot
the vessel, without rudder, clear of the piece wc liad been so long
frozen to into liie water, cutting the hawsers, winch canted us, just as
it entered the solid mass, upon the weather edge of wliieh we twice
grazed as we worked into the land; when, at 7 p.m. of the 11th, we

tl(

an
ui
n
it

II excceu

OAI'TAIN M'cI,U1:i:'s DUSPATCIIES. 33

again secured to a large grouiuled floe, 70 yards from it, in 10 fathoms.
At 10 p.m. our position was hazarded by a portion of the main pack,
which had extended itself over the oj)cn water, coming in violent colli-
sioii with the corner of our floe, turning it partially Vound, while the
smaller ice pressed with so much strain upon the ship that the anchors
i)egan to draw and hawsers carry away ; the stream chain luckily held
until the i)ressuro ceased by the pack givhig way, and our being pushed
a few fathoms nearer the shore. At 2-5(') a.m'. of the 13th a lane of
water opened nl)out (iO yards from the vessel, and towards noon a rise
in the temperature to I.", degrees, with heavy rain, created hopes of
li!)cration, an object of the utmost importance*, not only with respect to
the views with which the expedition was fitted out, but for the safetv
of the ship, at i)resent in a most exposed jjosition, being Jipon the
eastern side of a large bay, oj)cn to the whole pressure of the Polar
pack, and surrounded with masses of ice Hi and IS feet thick, while
tlic grounded floes were from 10 to (5/ feet in depth. To remove these
impediments, or, at all events, endeavour the formation of a dock,
blastinif was had recourse to, with charges of from 10 lbs. to 0511)5.
Those made little impression, except near the explosion ; therefore a
L'(j-gallon rum cask, containing 2.");") lbs., was now sunk live fathoms,
among these large masses, at .'iO yards from the vessel ; its eftect was
most conclusive, shivering them to atoms, rending that to which we
were attached, and which was (i7 feet thick on the outer and .'-;.■) feet on
its inshoro edge, asimder, without the concussion being very much ielt
on board. All hands were employed in floating the loose ice into the
water, having vainly attempted to force the ship through, aided by n
strong wind, and a nine-inch hawser brought to that ])atent capstan
(such resistance from merely this sludge is incredible), which work was
continued until the afternoon of the 1 1th, when all was drifted away,
leaving a snug harbour 10 yards in width, flanked by heavy grounded
floes, forming an excellent })rotection. The rudder was now hung, in
anticipation of a start on the following morning ; but at 1 1 p.m. the
wind freshened from the W.N.W., bringing the whole pack down
upon this coast, filling our little harbour with loose and small ice
its entrance being too narrow to admit the large pieces; an enormous
lloe, however, carried away one of our flanks, but without disturbing
the vessel "in the slightest. At daylight on the morning of the ir)th,
these expectations were sadly blighted, it blowing hard from W.N.W.,
with sleet and snow ; nor was a drop of water to be observed in any
direction, and the ice- apparently as firndy fixed as in the depth of
winter. The rudder was again unhung, which, with the thermometer
at 14 degrees, scarcely afforded any probability of its being reshipped
this season. In the* course of the forenoon Messrs. Court (second
mate) and Newton (ice-mate) were sent to examine the coast and the
state of the ice to the eastward of Point CoUiuhoun, distant about
four miles. Their re{)ort was such as to confirm the opinion previously
entertained, with this consolation, that the position we which occupied was
better than any they had seen, as the ice to the eastward was much
larger and more massive than that we were encompassed by. The soil
on this coast is composed of gravel and limestone, and in the valleys
near the beach the (jur.ntity and richness of the moss is quite sur-
prising ; but, on reaching the first rauge of hills, about a mile distant,
a more sterile landscape never met the eye. The whole country appears

CAPTAIN M'CLUUli's DKSrATCllKS.

■i

i! ;■

1 ft

I'
(I-

f • Ii

iw: f !

I: >

nothing but one mass of limestone, without the shghtest vegetation ;
the traces of animals, so nnmevojis 1 ;"» miles i'nrther west, are nowhere
in this barren ground to be met with.

On the 1 7th the westerly winds ceased, and wove snceecded l)y one
froia the eastward, witli a rise of temperature from 11 to 21 di-grees,
which, by daylight of the IDtli, had increased to .'Vi, with water
extending along the coast three milt s in width. We immediately
cast off, and at 7 a.m. rounded the point, whence the land falls
baekE.S.E, Our progress was slow from many causes,— the coi)i)cr
being torn and projecting from 1 to 12 inches from the bottom, light
wind=, and an ice-encumbered sea, so that at '.) p.m. our further
advance was arrested by the ]nu'k touching the land and extending
with unbroken line to the northward as far iis the eye eoidd reach.
Our day's work did not exceed 1.") miles, when we were comiielled
to make fast to the land ice, which along the whole of this coast is
of the most massive and terrific dimensions I have ever witnessed.
There was a httle selection of l)erth on a coast-line nearly straight; but
a slight indentation, jiroteeted cast and west by two large pieces of a
broken floe 30 feet above the water, gave hopes of some shelter ; when,
at () ii.m., the water and loose ice, wliieh was before ])erfectly still,
suddenly rushed forward at the rate of two knots an hour, and, Srtriking
against the vessel, forced her from her anchors with such violence that
she was driven astern upon a hard ])oint of the floe, which raised her
12 inches ; but, fortunately, she held until tlie rush was over, which
swept away our eastern bulwark, but did no other damage. We tlien
vvarjjed to "the western side of the Hoc, where n small space was blasted
for the bow, in which we ([uietly remained during the night.

At dayhght of the 2()th, finding the ice loose and drifting, though
a perfect calm, a mile and a half an hour to the eastward, we east
off, and, laying hold of a large lloe-jtiece, were dragged along close by
the grounded ice, whieli with some ditUenlty was avoiiled i)y sliil'ting
round the tloe as it canted towards us. At noon, having a light air from
the Avestward, made sail, but soon had reason to regret it, ns it
shortly failed, and, the ice tilling the land water, it grailualy,i ;rced
the vessel into the pack, whicli hitherto we had been so anxious
and careful to avoid. As the only h()])e of navigating this sea con-
sists in keeping close to the shore, it now became evident that
every exertion must be made i)y warping to regain the land ; which,
under the circumstances of the ice being in motion, with nnu'li that
was small and loose filling up the intervals between the larger ))itces,
which allowed a secure footing for the men, was ditlicnit, lal)orious, and
anxious in the extreme, as with every ])reeantion they frecpiently fell
in. After seven hours' incessant work, we succeeded, as the night closed,
in reaching a huge and solid tloe that had just l)ecn upturned, three of
its sides being 2.') feet perpendicular, grounded in 2!) fathoms on the
outer edge, and having lOJ upon the iimer one, around which was scat-
tered much debris, part of its original self that had crundded from the
pressure against a cliff', up which it had been ihrccd i'nW 70 feet, and
where a large mass was still renniining about a mile to the westward of a
cape (Austen), 400 feet in height, winch is stratified, and of the same
description as Nelson's Head, where we secured for the night.

At daylight of the 21st, a thick fog, with hail, ])ernntted a very circum-
scribed view ; but as the ice appeared loos,^ in the direction of the cape, at
6 a.m. we started, and, grazing round it within 1.1 yards, found ourselves

CAPTAIN M'cr.URE's DESPATCIIK8. 35

in a large bay entirely covered with ice, formed by another cape three
miles S.IO., compelling us, at ().;H) a.m., to make last immcdiiitely be-
neath the cliiV, the summit of which nearly jjlumbing the hatchways,
rendered our pofiition very unsafe, many fragments appearing so loose
from the action of frost and water that a slight concnssion would
have brought them down. At 11 a.m. the ice eased a little from the
land, when we again eiuleavoured to force towards the S.E., aided by
a westerly wind and war|)ing ; hut in the afternoon the fog became so
dense, with an easterly breeze, that we made fast to the land floe ; in which
a small dock was formed with the assistance of the little ])owder, about a
mile from our forenoon's position, remaining until the morning of the
2Jnd, when a little progress was made towards tli'^ S.E., our opera-
tions by warping being brought to a termination. At 1 p.m. having
reached thecajjc (Cro/ier), uj)on the south-eastern side of which the ice
was resting, and having secured to a ridge 20 feet in heigth lying at its
base, I proceeded with Mr. Court to its summit for tlie purpose of examin-
ing the coast line towards the S.E. A deep bay, extending ;}() miles in
that direction, filled with ice, which was connnencing to move bodily to
the westward, and of a nnu'h less formidable character than that we had
been subjected to, while what was lying along the shore was small and
widely detached, well repaid the toil of ascent. Indeed, since rounding
Cnpc Austen, it has lost nuich of its terrible aspect, whic:h led to the
inference that we were fairly in Barrow's Strait, and that the main l*olar
pack takes a direct line from the last-mentioned cape to the K.X.E,, and
that which iills these bays and is carried down Barrow's Strait is the
comjjaratively small ice which drifts from its southern edge, as we have
invariably remarked that there is a decidedly easterly current, which
impels the enormous Polar iloes on that course while the lighter, inllu-
eneed by wind, is oftentimes setting in an opposite direction. This
cape (Crozier) is 2r)() feet perpendicular, presenting among its cKhri'^
many interesting geological specimens ; it is com])Osed of lime and
sandstone, having I'ossiliferous shells ind)edded, also pieces of coal and
petrefactions of wood, identical with what has been met with ujjon other
parts of this large island and upon the Princess Royal Isles.

At o.'M) a.m. of the 2.'h'd, although not dayhght, open Avater was ascer-
tained to be at h.and, from the dark appearance of the horizon to
seaward. The vessel was cast ofll', and, standing in that direction, we
found we liaa not been deceived ; the wind during the forenoon coming
from the westward, enabled us to run close along the shore, on which
still rested a line of thin ice, rendering the entrance of what appeared
three good harbours inaccessible. The la:.;l was much less rugged,
having'small hills gradually sloping to the beach, and large vallevs well
calculated for the pasture lands of animals ; but no particle of driftwood
could be observed,— which article has not been seen, excepting the small
chi])s near the ligneous hills, since rounding Point Kellett, on the
western shore. At r).30 j).m. our course was nearly obstructed, from
the ice resting upon a point about two miles distant ; the studding sails
were taken in, but almost immediately reset, as it gradually ojjened,
allowing sullicient space for our ])assage by topping up the lower booms.
The shm-e shortly trending more to the southward increased our water,
but snow and thick weather, with night coming on, rendered the land
not 200 yards distant barely discernible ; most anxious, howrever, at the

2 c .

CAPTAIN M'cI.URK's PKSI'ATCUKS.

i; *

close of the season to ciiibrncc every oppoitunity of getting to some
place of secnrity, our course was contiuucd with ensy canvass, when,
under other circunistance:<, we should have most assuredly secured for
the uight, and at 7.30 p.m., with the lead going, went from 1 j fathoms
upon a mud bank, having only six feet under the how, and at the
distance of 10 feet from the stern only 18 inches, while the stern was
in five fathoms. The stream anchor and calde were laid out, — which
service was well performed by Messrs. Wynniatt, Sainsbury, and Court,
it rerpiiring four boats in consc(pienee of the freshening N.AV. gale and
pieces of loose ice with snow, which, caking as it reached the water,
formed so thick a coating over its surface, and offered such resistance,
that it was scarcely possible to pull through. However, with clearing
the forehold and warrant- otticcrs' store-rooms, and bringing all the
weight abaft the mizen-niast, at 10 p m. we were enabled to heave off,
and brought u]) with both bowers in six fathoms and a half. The re-
mainder of the night was occujiied in restowing the holds, weighing the
stream-anchor, &c., so that at daylight of the 24th we were in ])erfect
readiness to move. On u view of our |K)sition, we found that we were
on the N.AV. side of a large bay, the eastern limit of wiiich bore X.E.
eight miles (which we subsecpiently found formed the western point of
Banks's LanJ), and riuming to the S.S.W. about seven, which was
rapidly filling up with ice; flowing in before a fresh gale from the Polar
Sea. Still wishing to see if any possibihty remained of getting down
IJarrow's Strait, we weighed, and st(jod as lar as the ice would allow to
the N.l:]., when, observing from the crow's-nest no water in that direc-
tion, I determined to make this our winter (piarters, and. having re-
marked upon the south side of the hank on which we had groimded a
well protected bay, Mr. Court was despatched to sound it ; and, sluirtly
making the signal that there was sufficient water, we bore U]), ami at
r.-l"» a.m. we anchored in four and a half fathoms, and tliat night were
firmly frozen in, in what has since ])roved a most safe and excellent
harbour, which, in grateful remembrance of tiie many jjerils that we
had escaped during the passage of that terrible Polar Sea, we have
named the " Buy of Mercy," thus finally terminating this short season's
operations, having been actually only five enlire days under way. Pre-
parations were now made for housing in, and everything was completed
by October 1, except hauling over the cloth, which was not done that
the daylig>t should be enjoyed as long as possible, and a saving in
lights eff >' ,ed. On that day, as a precautiimary measme, the crew-
were placed upon two-thirds allowance of all species of provisions.
Upon the 4th, Mr. Court was sent with a travelling jjartv to coimect
our position with that visited by Lieutenant Cresswell m Mav last,
from which we were only distant' IS miles. On the 7th lie returned,
which ser\ ice completed the search around tiie entire coast line of this
island ; he reported o|»en water a few miles from the shore, which,
gradually extending, reached the cliffs of Banks's Land. Upon the
\ith, as, with two men, he was examining a few miles to the south-
eastward of his tent, the current detached' fh^ l,oavv gromided land ice
from Its base, drifting the whole party off shore to the N.W. ; fortu-
nately, being unencumbered with the sledge, tiiey succeeded with diffi-
culty and by much agility, jumping from piece 'to piece, in regaining
the shore, and that evening no ice could be remarked in the Strait, the
who . bemg set into the Polar Sea.

CAPTAIN M'oIJ Itli's DKSPATCllHS.

,hiiig the

10 crew

)visi()n-.

POlUUTt

ly last,
turiu'd,

of this

which,
)on tlic

south-
find ioc
rortii-
\i dim-

On the 1 01 h, Mr. Sivinshnry (mftlc), with a travelling party, went lo ex-
amine an inlet, which appeared to rnn sonic distance to the S.W. from the
sonth side of the hay ; but npon the following day returned, finding it
extended only 12 n)iles, the water shoaling, until it finally terminated in a
large marsh, which, from the numerous traces of animalsand wild fowl, may
be considered as a favourite resort during the summer. As there appeared
much game in the vicinity, and the weather continued mild, shooting
parties under Lieulcnant Crcsswell, Messrs. Wynniatt, Court and Piers,
and the Marines, nndor Sergeant Woon, were* established in different
directions between the IHh and 2:5rd ; so that,'with what was killed from
the sliij), our supply of fresh provisio)is at the commencement of the
winter consisted of nine deer, ys hares, and 44 ])tarmigan, all in line
condition, the former having iiom two to three inches of fat.

The weather during the winter has been much more boisterous, but
in each month several degrees more mild than was experienced in the
Prince of Wale.^" Strait, nearly a degree and a half further Eouth, last
year, which, in conjunction with the aninnds remaining in numbers ii:
this locality the entire winter, must, I suppose, l)c taken as a proof of
its mildness, although lying exposed to the north-west winds, direct
from the Polar Sea, which, njion our first being frozen in, led to the
anticipation of having to encounter a very severe season. In conse-
(pienee of our favoured position the crew were enabled to ramble over
the hills almost daily in quest of game, and their exertions happily
supplied a fresh meal of venison three times a fortnight, with the ex-
ception of about three weeks in January, when it was too dark for
shooting. The small game, such as ])tarmigan and hares, being scave,
were allowed to be retained by the sportsmen as private properly.
This healthy and exhilarating exercise kept us all well and in excellent
spirits during another tedious v. inter, so that on the 1st of April we
had uj)war(ls of l,()()()lbs. of venison hanging at the yard-arms. All
wearing so fair an aspect, and being desirous of visiting AVinter Har-
bour, Melville Island, with the hope of meeting an oiticer there with
wiiom arrangements might be nnide in the event of any accident occur-
ring which would render it necessary to quit the ship, I proceeded on
the 11th with Mr. Court (second master) and a sledge party for that
))()rt ; but in consequence of thiirk weather coming on a few hours after
leaving the vessel, and continuing nnhitermittingly for several days, we
did not reach until the '28th. Upon the Kith we observed a vtry lofty
cape, bearing N.E. by V.. ,'U) miles, which 1 have called Queen Victoria,
in honotir of her Most Gracious ^Majesty (the same which had been
remarked last autumn from the high land near the ship). The land of
the north-cast forms the bottom of Lyddon Gulf, while that upon i'.s
western side stretched to the N."\V., in one unbroken mountain line as
far as the eye could reach. At Winter Harbour we obtained a set of
sights for the purpose of testing our chronometers, which were ascer-
tained to be going exceedingly well ; and, having deposited a notice of
ottr visit uiukr the same cairn where Lieutenant M'Clintock left one
last year, upo)i a large fragment of sandstone, bearing this inscription,
viz: "His Britannic Majesty's ships //ec/a and Griper, Comm mders
Parry and Lvddon, wintered'in the adjacent harbour during the winter
of 1HI!).20.— A. Fisher, sculpsit," at p.m. commenced our return,

•> ■

' 1

88 CAPTAIN M'CT.UHR's DESPAl'CllES.

travelling upon flat ice nearly the entire way ; accomplishing in ten
(lays what occupied eighteen upon the outward tri|), and reached the
ship upon the 9th of ^Nfay, when I had the gratification of receiving the
most satisfactory reports concerning our sanitary condition, and like-
wise that tlie supply of venison contiiuied abundant, having twenty head
of deer on board. In consequence, the ration of venison was increuhed
to I, Ul). thrice a week, as the crew were iiard at work, clojuing tiie
holds, collecting and bringing off ballast — the latter a very laborious oc-
cupation, from the large space they had to search over in picking up a
sulliciency of stone to complete KM) tons, which was not accomplished
until the 2r)tli; after which wc commenced watering, obtaining it from
a lake about n mile from the ship, by boring through 7 feet 10 inches
of ice, and cutting a reservoir to receive it, this forming a species of
artesian well, which gave a bountiful snjjply, enal)ling the water to be
comi)leted by the 12th of June, previous to the commencement of the
thaw, which was a great advantage to the crew, as it kept them dry-
footed. About this thne Hocks of wild fowl, consisting of swans, geese,
and all descrij)tious of ducks, l)igan to arrive, !)ul, finding no water,
merely took u llight round the north-west extreme of !he land and
returned to the southward ; from which it would appear that llic season
is late. Indeed, the laud is as uuich eovered with snow, as in the depth
of winter ; iior was it until the lioth of tiie montii tliat any alteration
took place, when small streams connnenced trickling down the sunny
slopes of the ravines, and little j)onds formed upon tlie ice.

On the .'30th we h.ad an entire day of h"avy snow, with one of the
most severe northerly gales I ever witnessed at so advanced a period
of the season; and upon the 1st of July found tliat tlie ice had in-
creased its thickness four inches during the last month, l)eing seven feet
two inches ; a most unusual circumstance, as both at Port Leopold and in
the Prince of A^'ales' Strait we found a very consideraljle decrease.
During the month of June the temperature likewise was very low,
showing an average of. '51 J". The appearance of the crew, at their
monthly insjieetion, elicited a more unfavour.-^ble report from the sur-
geon than I have hitherto received ; evident symptoms of debility
among the generality of them, and sixteen having a decided seorbntic
tendency, pl.iinly the effect of the late heavy Labour in ballasting and
watering ; but as all our work is now on board, their gradual return
to perfect health m;iy be anticipated, without encumbering the sick list.

On the 8th of July, Sergeant Woon, of the Marine^-, while in
pursuit cf a wounded deer, unex])ectedly met a couple of luusk
hulls, which he succeeded in killing, evincing the nuist soldier-like
coolness .ind intrepidity during the entire transaction. Having ex-
pended his ammunition as one of the wounded and infuriated Uionsters
rushed towards him, he fired his " worm " when at a few yards, but
without much effect. Tlie animal continued his advance, evidently,
however, weak from loss of blood, till he had reached within
six feet, when, putting his head to the ground previous to his final rush,
tl.e sergeant, as his last resource, fired his iron rann-od, which entering
behind the left shoulder, passed through the heart and out at the right
flank, dropj)ing him dead at liis feet. They are fine aninuds, whose
gross weight is l,3;30lbs,, and yield, after deducting offal and hunters'
perquisites, O.^Olbs. of excellent beef; wh

'Pl'ly

CAPTAIN JI'cIJJUK's Dr.SPATCllKS.

most opportune, ns our rcintlcor A\(rc fxpeiidccl Inst week. Two Esqui-
rniiux luits upon u small islet in the centre of tlie hay, and the site of
an eneainpnu'iit on a jioaked hill on the western shore of the mnhiland,
are the only indications we have met with of that extraordinary and
hardy people havinj-- nt some i)eriod long past inhabited this coast. "NVe
have now diseovered traces of them upon all sides of this island ; hut
where are they gone ? for certainly there is not one upon it at present,
or why should they have (juittcd' an island so abounding throu"-hout
the entire year with game, except, as the Esquimaux interpreter
observes, there may be a great ])aucity of seals, without which luscious
food they cannot exist ; and this may l)e the reason, as we have seen
very few.

l)nring the month of July the little thaw, which a temperature falling
to ;{1" every night and rising only to ;if)^ and l'i° in the day could
effect, has not been much ; but the water draining from the land, rotted
the ice round the entire bay, and detached it from 100 to .SOO yards
from the shore, so that it has ])ower to move, and only requires open
water in the offing to allow of its going out, which joyful event we
entertained hopes of realizing, as upon the lOth of August some lanes
of water were observed to seaward, and along the cliffs of Banks's
Land there was a clear space of six miles in width, extending along
them as far as the eye could reach from the north-west hills, at an
elevation of 1,0()() feet ; and on the I'Jth the wind, which had been for
!ioine time from the northward, veered to the south, which had the
circet of "^cparaling the sea ic? from that of the hay entirely across the
<iitrance ; hut, shortly shifting to the north, it closed again, and never
at'trr moved. On the L'Oth the temperature fell to 27", when the entire
bay was completely frozen over, and on the '27th to 19°, so that the
wliole aspect was i-neerless in the extreme, the young ice being two-
aud-a-half inches thick, so that the whole bay might be safely peram-
buhited ; indeed, the summer was fairly gone, for the uplands were all
pnow-covcred, the wild fowl <ill departed, and the flowers, which gave
diet rfnl variety to this bleak land, were all withered. The very season
might be considered as one long sunless day, as since the latter part of
iSIay that luminary had been scarcely visible, or his influence felt, upon
those ic\ masses which l)loek Barrow's Strait entirely across ; nor do I
imagine that tlie Polar Sea had broken up that season, as not a drop of
water had heeu seen in that direction. During July, and the early
])art of August, the crew were d^ily employed gathering sorrel, of which
there was a great quantity ujion the hills in this vicinity, and, eaten as
a salad, with vinegar, or boiled, when it resembled spinach, it was found
a most admirable anti- scorbutic, and a great benefit to all, being exceed-
ingly relished ; hut that hardy and miserable herbage could not with-
btand this rigorous summer beyond the I.")th of the month. For
several days the ice had been perfectly stationary and no water visible
in any direction, that along the cliffs of Banks's Land being frozen, so
that i felt assured that the winter had fairly set in, and all hopes of any
release this year were totally annihilated, the young ice being five
inches thic;k. Having previously determined what course I should
adopt under circumstances thus unfavourable, upon the 8th of Sep-
tember I announced my intentions to the crew of sending half of
them to England next April, with all the officers not in charge of

:H.i

■'^\

CAI'TAIN M'CLURE's DKsCATCHKS.

stores, vid Mnftin's Way (taking the boat from Cape Spcncoi) ami the
Mackenzie, detaining the remainder with tlie hope of cxtrioating
the vessel during the summer of IH.').'}, or, failing tliat, to proceed
with sledges in 1854, by Port Leopold,' our provisions admitting of
no other arrangement. Although we had already been twelve months
upon two-thirds allowance, it was necessary to make ])reparations for
meeting eighteen months more — a very severe deprivation and con-
stitutional test — but one which the services we were employed upon
called for, the vessel being as sound as the day she entered tlie ice. It
would therefore he discreditable to desert her in 18.").'^, when a favour-
able season would run her through the Straits, and admit of reaching
England in safety, where the successful achievement of the long-sought
for and almost hopeiess discovery of the north-west passage would l)e
received with a satisfaction that would amply compensate for the sacri-
fices made, and hardships endured, in its most Irving and tedious
accomplishment. This statement was well received, and its excci'.ti'ju
will, I hope, be carried out without ditlleulty.

On the 17th the wind shifted to the S.S.I'L, and Idew hard, which a
few days earlier might have been attended with i'avourable resuUs, but
now it had no effect ; the ice, being eight inches thick, was too linn to
be moved; the sails were consecpiently unbent, and preparations com-
menced for housing in,

September 24th. — This i§ the anniversary of our arrival. The contrast
is very remarkable. AVe entered the bay with the tenipcratiu'e at .■)■'>",
and not a particle of ice in it; to-day the therniouioter stands at 'J',
with ice which has never moved, and every indication of a very severe
winter.

Upon the 2.5th of October closed the hatchways and housed (he
vessel over; it becoming damp and cold between decks, the vajiour-
funnels, of which there are five, giving a sutHeient ventilation, lh()t.c
over the hatchways being never closed, carry off all inij)urities, so tliat
we enjoy a clear, wholesome, atnDsjdiere below. This has very much
contributed to the excellent i)reservatiou of our healths, and (lie '.?(ilh
being the second anniversary of our discovery of the j)as.sagi', and the
last that we should all be together, the occasion was celebratcil by a
sm.iU additional allowance of provisions, and an extra glass of grog,
which had the effect of putting all in high spirits, so that the evening
was passed most jovially in singing and dancing.

On November 8th, completed the baiddng up and other outside work ;
finally terminating our winter arrangements upon the l^th, i)y covering
the upper deck with 18 inches of snow. The deer fur the last few
days have been coming from the soutlnvard to their wuiter-(|nartcrs
among these ravines and sand-hills ; 90 have bcLMi met with at one
time, and 40 at another, but so very wild that few have bcin shot.
Our two seasons' experience show that these animals do not migrate to
the south, as is generally supposed, but bear the extreme rigour of t'le
climate, and exist upon the scanty herbage, chiefly the dwurf willow,
from off which they Ijreak the snow with their feet', which tajjping can
be heard at a considerable distance when the weather is calm, and
frequently leads to tiieir discovery. The hnres and ptarmigan have
also descended from the high gromid to the sea-ridges, so (hat a supplv
of game has been kept up during the winter, "which has enabled

CAPTAIN M'ci.UnE's DKSPATCHES.

n iVfsh meal to he issued twice weekly, niul the usual Christmas
festivities to pass off with the greatest cheerfuluess. As it was
to ho our Inst, the crew were determined to make it mcuiDruhle,
and their exertions were completely successful. Eacli uicis wa.i
j^aily illuminated, and decorated with original paintings hy our lower-
deck artists, exhil>iting the ship in i»cr perilous jjositions" during the
transit of the Polar Sen, and divers other suhjccts ; hut the grand
feiiturt s oi" tho day were the enormous jduin-pnddings, some weio-hing
•Jlilhs., haunches of venison, hares roasted, and soup made of llie same,
with ])tarniigan and sea-pies. Such dainties in such profusion I should
imagine never hcfore graced a ship's lower deck ; any stranger to
have witnessed this scene could hut faintly imagine that he saw a
crew which had jiassed upwards of two years in these dreary regions,
and three entirely upon their own rcsotirccs, enjoying such excellent
health. So joyful, so happy, indeed such a mirthful assemhlage, under
any circumstances, would he most gratifying to any officer ; but in
this lonely situation I could not hut feel deeply im[)rcssed, as I contem-
plated the gay and plenteoiis sight, with the many and great mercies
which n kind and hcneficcnt Providence had extended towards us, to
whum alone is due the heartfelt praises and thanksgivings of all for the
great blessings we have hitherto experienced in positions the most
desolate which can be conceived.

Mardi 1. — The most dreary and dark time is now passed, and severe
and trying it has iteen. The cold of the last two months was exces-
hive, .lanuary showing a mean of 14", being 17" l)elow the correspond-
ing ])eriod last year ; and one dav the temperature fell to — (iiV, and
for 'J 1 hours actually averaged — 02". I shoidd have doubted the
correctness of the thermometer (as no former exjierience sliows so
low a register), had it not been well tested the two preceding winters,
when it only fell to — .'i2" ; but, independent of the glass, the feel-
ings "ave nnmisiakeablo evidence of the extreme keenness of the
weather, as, lor one entire week, the temperature never rose above
10", the wind l)eing about S.S.W. ; fro\n which quarter, during both
winters, we have invariably felt the greatest cold. I therefore inuigine
that in the interior the land must be ver\' loftv, as when the wind
veers to the north, which is directly ofT the Polar Sea, the glass rises,
■ohowii'g the highest temperature when it is easterly. These low tem-
peratures have caused much moisture between decks, and, from not
bciu"; able to allow a sufficiency of firing to counteract the effect of
the damp atmosphere, it has been materially telt by the crew. T!ic
sick list at one })eriod conscfpiently increased to 1 !), — five being cases of
scurvy, and the same of dropsy; but now haj)pily reduced to 10, and
the surgeon's report, upon the survey of their crew today, as to their
general state and condition, is as favourable as I could, under all cir-
ciunstances, have anticipated. During the last month we have been
employed in gravelling a distance of yOO yards towards the - i-ice, with
the hope of its weakening it, in the event of our being able to move
when the season for navigation arrives. Upon the 3rd, told the men
oft" that where to proceed to England next month via the Miiekcnzie
and Baffin's l?ay. They appeared extremely well satisfied with the
arrangement, as 1 explained to them my object was to send home all
who had suffered the most from the severity of the climate, and to

r .''■'■\{

I : 4

> ^

I V

■■I

CAPTAtN M'cI.I'IIK's DKSPATrilKS,

wliom miothcr yonr iuic;lit prove exoecdiiigly tryinu;, ns well ns to re-
tain tlic most cnVctivL' incii in tlie cvoiit of l)i'iiij^ dclaincd iinotlicr
winter. On the l.'itli the travellers went njjon full ullowanee of pro-
visions, which I liavc little doiiht will, before they nre rci(uiretl to
btart, f;;ot them in good eondition.

•21st. — The weather has been henutifid durinj^ tlie last week; the
temperature, whieh inilil the Kith eontiniu'd almost daily to fall to
— ,')(') , on the 17th rose to - -'_V, the followiiija; day to — I I"", nud on
the I'.'th to + '.i'-', which sudden and delightful chnnge, after the
excessive cold of the last three months, is most grateful. The invalids
are rapidlv improving, the majority taking a daily airing of fi'om two
to three hours. The temperature nt noon to-day, exposed to the stni,
rose to + 10", so that the extreme severity of the winter is over ; in fnct, to
the present ti'.ie, April .'>th, the tem|)crature daily mounts in the shade
above zero, which, according to past expcricnoc, is exceedingly mild, and
may be considered indicative of an early break up of the ice. God
grant such may be the easel On the l."»th it is my intention to start
the i)arties destined to make their way to Kngland, and, from oin* good
sauitarv ennditioM, I feel but little doul)t all will safelv arrive. A
fatigue i)arty, uiider the connuaud of AFr. Court, second master, will
a('eom[)any J-ieutenaut Ilaswell for a few days, while John Calder,
captain of the forecastle, a trustworthy and zealous jictty otHcer, will
])rocecd with Lieutenant t'resswell as far as the Princess Itoyal Islands,
and from the depot there return with as many cases of potatoes and as
much chocolate as can l)e brought on the sledge, which extra sui)ply
will give an ample allowance of those excellent articles, in the event
• f being detained here during the ensuing winter. To this period we
liiive not lost an individual of our crew, either by accident or disease ;
the officers particularly have enjoyed an immunity from sickness which
is surprising, with the exception of ^Ir. Saiiisbury, mate, who, since
the winter of IHoO, has sutfered from a jmlmouary complaint that has
entirely prevented his participating in the arduous diitics of the
travelling ])arties, or in the more exciting but not less laborious occupa-
tion of hunting over this rugged and severe country, and Mr. Paine,
clerk in charge, who had been a great invalid from rheumatism until
this last winter, when he has ir.ade u most rapid and wonderful
recovery, and at present is in the enjoyment of more robust health than
when he (piitted JOngland. I can attribute our excellent salutary state
to the causes previously alluded to in this narrative, in conjunction with
the bountit'ul supply of game which a merciful Providence has aided us
with, and has so materially added to our otherwise scanty rations, ns
well as the excellence of all species of our provisions, which arc certainly
')f the best description 1 ever met with, more particularly the superior
(pmlity of the lime-juice, which, as an antiscorbutic has proved most
inestimable, with the preserved meats suj)plied by Messrs. Gamble,
which, for weight, cx( niption from bone, and excellence, rank in the
very highest scale ; and that invaluable vegetable, the preserved potato,
manufactured by Edwards. Sir, I have nothing more to add to this
narrative, except to state, that I forward a list of game killed, and a
monthly mean of the meteorological journal, which has been registered
every alternate hour since leaving England by the respective officers of
the watches, and carefully arranged and tabulated by Air. Court (second

CAPTAIN M*CI,L'nr,*S DESPATCHES.

innslor), which cornplctc Tables, I Impc, with otiior iiUorestinj; ol)>,crvii.
tions, to 1)0 cimbk'd to carry snlVly home in the ship.

And, havinii; particularized the otliccrs in the various services they
have been cniploycd upon, I canimt conchule without expressini; the
extreme satisfaction that the crow have given nic upon all occasions,
when, in the perilous passage of tlic Polar Sea, activity, oner-iv, and
arduous duty were re(|uired, as well as during this long period of
inactivity ; tliey have been characterized by cheerfulness, propriety, and
good conduct, which fully entitle them to the most favourable consider-
ation of their Lordships.

I liave the honour to be, Sir,

Your most obedient hunil)le Servant,

llOIiKlCr M'CLUUK, Commander.
Jhiv of Mercv, Ikring's Island, April .">, ]H;,:).
I.at. 7 1' (i' lib N. ; J.ong. 1 IH^ l.V 0' W.

Jlci' Majesti/s J)iscoi'ei-i/-ft/uj) Ineestiyafor, Ihnj of Meni/, Ijarimfs

hltiial, /tpril 10, lS.">;i.

Silt, — In the event of our not getting to England this year, 1 think
it necessary to accpiaint you, for the information of the Lords (Jominis-
sioners of the Admiralty, what our ojjcrations will be to effect I'lat
object in IHjl, that their J>ordships may be enabled to take such cc.
ojicrative measures for our relief as may appear expedient.

Should the ice break up in this bay sufhciently early to permit of
our getting through the Straits this season, and finding the water open
to the eastward of Leopold Island, it would l)e my object to push
forward, without stopj)ing to take on board any ])rovisions from Port
Leopold ; but if, on the contrary, the ice should be thiel; towards
Lancaster Soimd, I would, if possible, proceed to Port Leojjold, and
complete a twelvemonths' provisions, and then risk wintering in the
pack, or getting through, in preference to remaining at the al)ove port.
If, however, we arc detained in this bay until next year, it will then l)e
requisite to leave towards the end of A])ril, and make for Tort Leo])ohi,
where I am aware that there is a good boat, a house, and ample
sup{)lies ; and, when the uavigaliO season opens, proceed to Pond's liay,
coasting along the south shore of Harrow's Straits. Arrivin<r at Pond s
IJay, and fiiuling from the Escpiimaux that no whalers have as yet l)een
there, I should there await their appearance as long as my provisions
would admit, and then go down the west shore of liaffin's I5ay, keeping
close along the land floe, where whalers or their boats arc almost certain
of being met with. Failing this, I should cross to Disco, with the hope
of getting a passage in some of the Danish vessels which come there
annually, and leave about the beginning of September ; or, being too
late for them, cither charter or purchase one of their coasting schooners,
which, I believe, arc made among the settlements, if she was capable of
standing an Atlantic voyage. Could jieither of these be accomplished,
we must of necessity remain until the following season at that settle-
ment. Should auy of Her Majesty's ships be sent for our relief, and

'4-

if .1

-II

CAl'T.MN MVf.I'RK'H DFhI'ATCIIKH.

wc hlioiild Imvc f(iiitto(l I'ort I.oopold, a notice, <(iiilaiiiiiii; iiii'itniiaiiou
(•(* our route, will be left nt tlie door of the Iioihc on Wlialei's roinl.ur
on some conspicuous position ; if, however, on the contrary, no intima-
tion .sliojdd he fomid of onr linvin}; been there, it may he at once sur-
mised that some fatal catastrophe has happened, cither from heinjj;
carried into the Polar ISea, or smashed in Marrow's Straits, and no
survivors left. If such should he the case, which, however, 1 will in)t
anticipate, it will then l)e quite uuiu'('e.>sary to penetrate further to the
westward for our relief, as liv the i»eriod that any vessel could reach that
port, we innst, from want of j)rovisions all have peri^died ; in such a
case I would submit that the officer may be directed to return, and by
no means incur the dani:;cr of losing other lives in quest of those who
will then be no more. As, liowever, it may occur (as was the case with
Sir John Iloss) that the ire may not break up in I'rinec Kejicnt's Inlet
diu'injj: the whole sunmier, it is as wel! to provide against siu'h a contin-
gency. If sucli should happen, it wouUl be necessarv to winter at
Port Leopold, unless apprised of the locality of any ship that might
be sent for our relief, which, I think, might be accomplished without
any very great difficulty, ns, although such vessel nmy not be enal)led to
get far iq) the Straits, yet, as Admiralty Inlet would be pretty certain
of being clear of ice, she might proceed thither, nud in some secure
bay freeze in ; and, wlieii the Straits were firmly frozen over, altout the
middle of October, n small travelling party could le despatched with
the intelligence ; the whole would then proceed to her, aiid although
rather Into in the season, men working tor llieir lives arc not likely to
be discouraged by a little cold.

Whatever may be the final termination of this long, todious, but, I
hope, not unimportant voyage, I beg, sir, that you will assiu'c their
JiOrtlships, that in every stage I hue been guided nitnrcly by what I
have considered to he my duty in prd^ecuting to the utmost the object
for which the expedition was fittetil out ; and, although we have not
snecccded in obtaining nnv iui'oriisiatinu which could throw the sliyrhtest
clue upon the tate ot our nnssing countrymen, I hope that the ser>iees
|K'rfornu'd in thr tracing a very great extent of coast line, the discovery
of much new land — a portion inhabited by ft simple ami primitive
people not hitherto known — and, above all, the accurate knowledge of
that passage between the Atlantic and Pacific oevans which, for so many
hundred years, has baiHed maritime l'jur(q)e its very existence Ixing
almost considered sceptical will be considered events suiHciently inter-
esting nud important to vVnh from their Lordships a favourable con-
sideration of onr services.

I have the honour to lu-, Sir,

Your nu)st obedient humble Servant,

IIOMKIIT M'CLnu:, Commander.

CAPTAIN M'cII'IIK'h DESPATOHKS,

TABLE,

Sliowiiif': the Menu Iliinlit (if Minniupfcr, wiih the T»'iii|)('rntnro of
till' Air on honnl Her Mnjcstv's sliip hiresliffuhir, tVniii Aujjiist
is;»(», ti) Mnrcli, is;.;{:

(

■

*"*'"■* "^ - ■ ■

— na^

• — •

IJaronii'ti'

•.

T.'IM

(craliirt

of Air.

Mi'aii

Year .111(1 Miiuili. .. .

lorc-c

.Maxi.

Mini-

Maxi-

Mihi-

niiiiii.

iiniii).

Moan.

iiunii.

tiiiiiii.

Mfan.

wind.

1 S ■)().

Aii;;ust ..

.'iOOlJO

2!»-3))0

2!)-7.i|

+.50

+ •■^7

^-3(i,5

3 -.5

Sl'ptL'llllPl'l'

•(>..()

•170

•TtW

+ Ki

- 1

i-:'0'2

3(1

October .,

•ISO

•3.NiJ

•8(il

+ 2t

-■-'3

+ 2

2-0

Niivfiiilicr , .

•270

'ItiU

•73!)

+ 7

-32

-10-J

' Dt'ccnilii 1

•.ItiO

'<IMI»

•}»78

- 1

-10

-2.;-i

2'.»

IS.-.l.

.1 iiui.iiy ..

arw

•HH)

•88,5

-1.5

_-.l

-.•)2-.5

I'c'liniarv. . ,.

•(ia«»

•030

•}).58

— il

-.,-,1

— .'(/ •(

M.iii'li ■ ,.

•rat)

•338

•!) Ki

— .5

—.1

-28'S

April

-tilo

•110

30037

+ 38

-32

— 1-8

3-1

-May

•«i()0

•-'iliO

•023

+ 17

— ••

+ 18M

2 2

.llllU'

•1 70

•t70

2!)-837

-|-.5;i

+ -•7

+;i(i-i

;i-,5

July

•0!)(t

■\-,{)

•7.>(i

+ J2

+;;:i

+ 37^.5

3-0

Aiif-iist ..

' -KIO

•3i» 1

•Sli.l

+ .V_'

+21

+'i7^()

2-8

Slplrllilltl'

•270

• t.JI)

•87(i

+ 1.;

+ 1

+ 2Wi

3-1

Oi'liilicr ..

•200

•300

•877

+ 2(i

— 22

+ .;-3

1-!)

Niivcmlicr

I -r.'jo

•(i30

300!»7

+ 10

— !(")

-r.->-2

1-8

l)fc'c'iiili( r .,

■810

•m)

•0H»

+11

-It

—200

3-;5

lS.->2.

JaiHiary . . . ,

' •()0()

•280

2» 8H

+ «

-r,[

-27-3

3-1.

I'cliniarv

310110

•070

'111

- 1

-17

—2,5 8

3^1

Maicli ■ ..

;i 1-000

•no

300S-2

+ «

—.52

-•28 1

April

! .JO- 130

•.VJO

•llli

+ 31

— 38

- M

2,5

May .. ..

; •2.>o

•(100

2!).!)87

+37

-•J.5

+ 102

2(1

Juno

•100

•130

•7<58

+ol

+ 11

+ 31 '.5

3-1

July

I -000

•370

•74!)

+;52

+30

-i-3()7

2-0

Au)>iist ..

i -170

• 100

•81(j

+ .52

+ 1!)

+ 33-2

2^{)

.Si'pU'iiibt'i' . .

1 •lOO

•070

•78,5

+38

- t

+-20-1

OcUllllT ..

•300

•no

•!)8(»

+ 1(1

-33

— ;j^(i

2-2

NoviMiibcr

•()80

•1(10

•!)78

+ !'

-13

-!(i-.5

3-1

Di ci'iubor . ,

•()70

28-!)70

•!»li

- i

-18

-2(M

3-7

18,l;3.

Jaiuiarv .. .. 30'120

2n'180

29718 ,

-1()

— ((.5

— 13-87

4-0,5

rfbnia'ry . . ' '.580

•K)0

30(»,58 '

-13

— ill

— 38^50

2 -,50

March . . . . j 'T'iO

•.510

•01-8

+ 17

-58

-2,5- t

2-30

■^i:-

!■ 'H.

CAPTAIN iC'CLURE's

DESPATCHES.

YEARLY

ABSTRACT.

^raxiiinini
^liiiiiiuini
Mean

18.10.
I'laroniptcr,

. .'5()'fM0
. 2!)-l()0
. 2i»-82S

18.12.
IV-iromctcr.
Maximum
Mininuim
:^lcau

.■51-000
. 2S-<»70
. 2!) !!()(;

Masinuiiu
Mininuini
M«an

Air.

+ ;>
— 10

Air.
Maxinwim

Minimimi

Mean

. -1- ()•()",

Maxiniuni
Minimum
Mean

18.11.

Bai'dnirlcr.

. .'jo-r.io

, 29-0:i0
. 2f)-!».'ll'

is.i;).

Haronu'tor.
Mnximnni
Minimum
Mean

.10-72
. 2!)-lS0
. I'ft'OOO

Air.

Maximum
Miiiinnnn
Mean

! Air.

+ ''>'2.-0 Maximum .. .. +17

— ■>^'^ . Miniiiunn .. .. — (>■'>

+ ^-'>^ Mean — y.V!»2

ROBERT M'CLURE, (^omniamler.

Although this pamphlet only professes to give the dospatehes of
Captain M'Clure, it is thought that a hrief narrative of the oiionm-
stances which led to a knowledge of the ])o,sition of the liivrsiif/fr/or,
and to the despatches of ('aptain IM'Clme heing brought home, will he
interesting to some readers, who may not have had an opjiortunity of
seeing all the particulars which have, from time to time, been niAde
public.

It may be remembered that Captain Collinson, in tlie Enterprise,
having the Inresf.iffcttor under his command, sailed from Woolwich on
the 10th of January, 1 «.")(), and from Plymouth on the 20th of the
same mouth. They parted company soon after leaving England, and
met again in the Straits of Magellan. After getting tlirough the Straits,
they expcriexiced heavy "-cather, again parted conijjany, and since that
time have never met. The Investigator arrived at the Sandwich Islands
on the 1st of July, the Enterprise having sailed on the morning of the
same day. Captain M'Clnre sailed again on the 4th, and, with the
wind invariably in their favour, made a surprising passhge to Behring's
Straits. After communicating with the Herald, Captain Kellett, off
Cape Lisbourne, and exchanging signals with the Plover, the Investi-

+•■

NOUTII-WKST P.\SSA(5K.

yalor pursued her course easterly, along the north coast of North
America, and passed Point IJarrow, under press of sail, on the oth of
August ; since which time, nothing had heen iieard of her until the
arrival of Lieutenant Gurney Crcsswcll, on the Ith of October, 1853,
with despatches from Captain JM'Clure.

Tiic despatch deposited hy Captain ]M'(.;hu'e at Winter Harbour,
Melville Island (as narrated page 3"), was discovered by Lieutenant
Mecham and his party, of the ship Itesolufe, Captain Kellett. The
Resolute, together with the steamer Intrepid, by which she was accom-
panied, forms part of the scpiadron under Sir Edward Belcher, com-
missioned with the arduous duty of searching for Sir John Franklin.

In August, 18") 2, this scpiadron was at Beechey Island;* and
arrangements being completed, on the 1 1th of August Sir Edward, in
the Assistance, accompanied hy the Pioneer steamer, proceeded up
"Wellington Channel, On the following day, ('u})tuin Kellett took
his departure westerly, leaving the North Star, Captain Pullen, witli
stores at J'eechy Island, and, after some narrow escapes, reached
Melville Island, in a hay of which (Bridjjort Inlet) he was frozen up
on the 1 1th of September following. It was not long after his being
thus lixed in winter quarters, that the discovery of Captain M'Clure's
despatches occurred; but until March, 18").'), no attempt could, with
prudence, be made to visit him at !Mercy Bay.

The following extracts from a letter, written by Captain Kellett, will
be read with much interest. After describing his passage from Beechey
to ]Melville kland, also the jdace selected in the latter for wintering in,
and the despatching of parties \i\ various directions to form depots of
provisions, he says :

"Lieutenant Mecham, on his return titroughWinter Harbour, visited
the sandstone, and found on it a record lett by Captain M'Clure in
May last, with a chart of his discoveries. I think you will read
with interest his despatches, and will exclaim, as I did, when you come
to this paragraph, ' Any attempt to send succour would ordy be to
increase the evil,' — what a noLle fellow ! As you may suj)i)ose, I was
annoyed at not finding this record myself when at AVinter Harbour.
Not that I could have done anything. The Strait was too much broken
uj) to attempt to communicate with sledges ; no boat navigation prac-
ticable at that season on account of young ice, and r.ot open enoiigli for
ships. It is beautiful to see how' exactly M'Clure has completed all
that was left 1)\ Austin and llae, and how exactly their work joins.

" M'Clure has actually discovered the North'iFest Passage. Some-
thiny in the annals of our country ; achieved by the industrious perse-
verance of one of her own officers, who, I hope, will he considered
worthy, and receive marks of high distinction. You should write this
circumstance in red letter in your record. To this expedition is still
left a fine field. I hope we may be able to make our efforts, too, worthy
of a red letter record."

After describing the way in which the winter months had been passed
I)y the ship's company, a*nd giving particulars of the various exploring
parties about to be despatched, he proceeds :

"On the morning of the 10th of March, calm and fine, temiierature

« liccclipy Island is a very small island to the north-west of Ciiiu' Ililcy ;
small lor llie scale of our map.

too

■ A

i'*

NOIITI r-\VKST I'ASSAi; K

vcrv low — 50\ Lioulonant I'im and Doctor Donivillc, nine men and

tl 1)V Mr. Hoclic and t(

left tor Banks' Land.

SIX (logs, assistt

Three miles IVorn the ship, Pini's sledge broke down ; sent hiin on with
auollier, which also proving; weak, he sent the dogs hack for another.
He encamped within about eight miles of the ship. A fnrious northerly
gale came on during the night, which detained them in their tents for
ibnr days. This was the earliest, and with the lowest temperature that
travelling has been atti'm])ted in these regions before. I communicated
with them on the fourth day ; —all well. No accident of consequence ; a
nipped finger, face, or car, the greatest. On the 14th they made
another start, assisted as far as Point llearne by a 10-man sledge.
Dogs doing wonders. One man sent back, another went on in his
])lace. The weather continuing beautifully fine and mild: temperature
zero.

" l!)th Aj)iil, ]Sr»l{. This is really a red letter day in my voyage, and
iliall lie kept as a holiday by my heirs and successors for ever. At
nine o'clock of this day our look-ont man made the signal for a [larty
coming in from the westward. All went out to meet them and assist
them in. A second party was thin seen. Doctor Domvillc was the
first ])erson I met. 1 catmot describe to you my feelings when he told
me that Caplain M'Cline was (tmonyst. the next partij. I was not long
in roachini' him, and {"ivin"' him manv heartv shakes. No i)urer were
ever given l)y two men in the worltl.

"M'C.'hue looks well, but is very hungry. His description of Pirn's
reaching the Harbour of Mercy would have l)oen a fine subject for the
pen of Captain Marryatt, were he alive.

" ^['Clure and his First Lieutenant were walking on the floe. Seeing
a person C!)ining very fast towards them, they supposed he was chased
by a bear, or had seen a bear, and they walked towards him. On
getting within a hundred yards they could see from his proportions
tiiat he was not one of tliem. Pim began to screech and throw up his
hands, his face as black as your hat. This brought the captain and
lieutenant to a stand, as they could not hear sufficiently to make out
his language. He was a consideral)Ie way ahead of his sledge -a
solitary man, and that man as black as Old Nick. M'Clure says he
woidd have lin-ned and run if he had seen a tail or a cloven foot. At
length Pim reached the party, quite Ijeside himself. Stammered
out, (on M't'iure asking him, Who are you, and where are you come
from ?') ' Lieutenant Pim — //eraW— Ca{)tain Kellett.' Tiiis was the
more inexplicable to ]M'C"lure, as I was the last person he shook hands
with in IJehring Strait. lie at length found that the solitary stranger
was a true Knglishman ; an angel of light he says. lie soon was seen
from the ship. They had only one hatchway open. The crew were
fiiirly jammed there in their endeavour to get up, to see — they did not
know what. The sick jumped out of their hammocks, and the crew
forgot their despondency; in fact, all was changed on board the Jnvesti-
f/ator. One man had unfortunately died, by accidentally poisoning him-
self, the morning of Pim's reaching here, (Jn the loth of April
jNI'Clurc had thirty men and three officers fully pre))ared to leave for the
depot at Point Spencer. Wliat a disapj)ointinent it would have been
to them to find the miserable Mary yacht, and four or five casks of
])rovisi()ns, instead of a fine large depot. Another party of seven were
to have gone by M'Kenzic, with a request to the Admiralty to send out

J '«

NOHTH-WF.ST PASSAUK.

-1f»

a ship to meet liim at Port Leo))o]d in I8;")4. The thirty men are on
their way over to me now. I shall, if possible, send them on to liecchoy
Island, wifli jihout ten men of my own crew ; to he taken home the
first oftportnnity.

"Tlie seven remain by the ship, hwestiyiitor will now have thirty-five
men, officers, and all. I must stay here myself another winter, if In-
vesHgator docs not break out this year. But Intrepid will go, jdease
God, direct to England, with half Investigator'' s crew, and the portion
of mine sent to Beechey Island."

•' 2nd May. Investigator s second party, consisting of Lieutenant
('rcssuell, Wyiniiatt, Mr. Piers, and Mr. Miertsching, arrived, bringing
two nicn on tlieir sledge. They made an extraordinary passage across
for »;ien in their state. The greater part of them arc affected with
scurvy, but are rai)i(]Iy improving.

"I have given M'( lure, who hr.s been with me for fourteen days,
orders to desert his ship if the medical officers are of opinion they
cannot stand another winter, or if there arc not twenty volunteers to
remain. M'Cu'.'' ■ ; eaj)ital heidth. I cannot explain to you my
feelings on shaki;: • a ,i!s with him. You will find from his des])atch,
his, on PinTs nietlnii; him on the floe. I thouu-ht I had the best officers
the navy could produce in the Herald. My present are certainly their
equals. Notliiug can exceed their zeal. My only duty has been to
restrain within pro[)er limits, and to direct it."

Her Mdjestifs Steamship P/ifjenix, off' Thniso, Odohcr 4.

Sin, — I have the honour to report to you, for the information of my
Lords Connnissioners of the Admiralty, my arrival from the Arctic
regions, bringing with me the impoitant intelligence of the safety of
the Investigator, and the discovery of the North-West Passage, though,
unhapjiilv, without finding the slightest traces of the missing expe-
dition, eitlier by tliis route, or on tlic field of search occupied by the
squadron under Sir Edward Iklcher's command.

I am the bearer of despatches from that ofificor and Captain Kellett ;
and Lieut. Cresswell, of the Investigator, whom I appointed from the
North Star as supernumerary to this ship, is charged with the letters
and journals of Commander M'Clure,

By the Diligence their lordships will have been informed of my
proceedings up to the time of my arrival at Disco.* I will, therefore,
now briefly state what we have since done, and then, in obedience to
the fifth clause of their lordshii)s' orders, relate what information I have
obtained with reference to the expedition, and the discoveries which
have been made.

On leaving Disco I proceeded, with the Breadalbnne in tow, to
IJpernavik, there to obtain dogs, and to communicate with the Inspec-
tor of North Greenland concerning the dis))osal of tlie Rose of Hull.
On the afternoon of the 1 1th of July we reached this jdace, and the
ships heading off while I landed, in two hours we proceeded up tlie
coast.

The following day, passing Cape Shakleton in a calm, I took advan-

• Disco Isliind is otVtlip coast of Ciroenlniid, ja=t beyond tlip limit of tlie accom-
panying map.

CiO

N()RTI1-WI->T PASSAOK.

taj:;e of tl»c fine weather to obtain some looms from the Rookery for
the u.*e of the Arctic sliips, and iu three hours we obtained a siiiiieient
quantity to give each ot ur own vessels a day's fresh meat, reserving
enough to suj)ply the jSurth Stars crew with provisions for ten days,
independent of the sheep we brought from Ireland.

On the IGth of July we entered Melvili^ Bay, and found it ))aeked
with ice, in some places very heavy, from recent pressure, and the land
floe unfortunately broken away, thus depriving us of the advantage of
its edge for docking the vessels, in case of a threatened nip.

On th*. 1 Ith of July, owing to damage sustained in the ice, it became
necessary to shift the screw, and this was dii... while beset amonu; iieavy
floes, almost out of sight of land. From the mast-head no land could
be seen at mid-day, or, indeed, any water Imt the pool in which the
ships were afloat, i)uf at midnight we ])roceeded filong a narrow lane
which opened away to the nortliward.

Tliick fogs and southerly winds, which closed the ice up, j)revented
our getting through Melville iJay till the 'J.")th of July, when we
stretched away from Cape York for Cape Warrender. Fog prevented
our taking observations while crossing over, and experiencing a strong
southerly set we found, on the weather clearing, that the sbij) was
within two miles of Cape Liverpool, though we had steered for Cape
Warrender with (Iv.e allowance for currents.

lleaching over to the north shore (which we then kept close on
board), we steered up Lancaster Sound, passing large floes which were
driving to the westward.

On the morning of the 29th of July we found a barrier of ice stretch-
i.ig from shore to shore, and which evidently had never b'oken away
this season. We followed its edge for several )>iiles, iu the hope of find-
ing a lane through, but were eventually obliged to bear up for Dundas
Harbour (iu Croker Bay), there to await a change.

Iu coasting towards this anchorage we were surprised at beholding
several teuts pitched on a point six miles to the westward of Cape
Warrender, but shortly found them to be the habitations of a party of
Esquimaux, who had come over from I'ond IJay. Among these people
I found many preserved meat and potato tins, the former bearing Mr.
Goldner's name, candle-boxes, somes[)ars, and other Government stores,
which led me to fear that they had visited the depot at Wollaston
Island.

In Dundas ILubour we lay for eight days, anxiously awaiting the
breaking uj) of the ice; and on the Gth of Au!;ust, hoping that I might
be able to examine, and if necessary remove, the stores from Wollaston
Islf nd, we got under way aud stretched across iu that direction; but
heavy hummocky ice prevented our even sighting it, and we were
forced to bear up again for the north shore. IJy this time a light
uorth-westerly wind had eased ofl' the ice, aiul I determined to push
on as far as practicable under steam. The wind holding for forty-eight
hours, we were fortunate enough to reach Beechey Island on the 8th of
August. In many cases the ice opened just as we reached a block,
which would otherwise have stopped our [)rogi'ess ; and we were told
by the oflicers of the North Star that no water was to be seen from
Cape Riley the day before we arrived. Thus their lordships will ]u v-
eive that no time w<!s lost in reaching our destination.

NDliril-WIOSl PASSA.iK.

During my stay at Port Dimdns (which is i.ninedintely under the
diffs forming Cape Warrender), I ordered a larjie cairn to he huilt on
a remnrkahle rocky peninsula at its entrance. Tliis cairn is upwards
of H) feet in height, LM) feet in circumference, and painted red with a
whito cross. Its position is such that a vessel sighting Cape Warren-
der must perceive it, and as nearly all the whalers every year sight this
caj)e, I conceived it to be an admirable j)Osition (should their lordships
desire it send any despatches to Sir Edward Belcher next year hy the
whalers) ''or these (lesj)atches to be deposited.

Erebus i.iid Terror Bay being full of heavy hammocky ice, of great
thickness, impervious to the saw or the blasting cartridge, and too
rough and too much inundated with deej) fresh-water jjooIs to admit
the possibility of landing the stores on Bcechey Island, or putting them
on board the North Star (a mile and a half distant), according to my
orders.

I had, therefore, no choice but to place them in what I deemed the
most convenient and practicable position, and in my capacity as senior
officer at Beechey Island, determined on Cape Riley as the fittest spot,
and even more accessil)le than the island.

Accordingly, on tiie following morning we commenced our work, and
having secured the transport in a bight of the land ice, inniiediately
al)reast of the steep cliff, the people were now set to work, watch and
watch, night and day. To expedite the service, I ordered all hands to
be sent from the North Star, with their hannnocks, and desiring them
to be victualled from ( ur ship. The time was thus saved which would
have lieen lost by their going and returning to their vessel, upwards of
two and a half miles distant.

The steamer lay with her fires hanked up, and her hav/sers in, ready,
at a moment's warning, to take the trans})ort off-shore, in case of the
ice closing ; and now, everything being set fi)rward systematically, and
l.'U) tons of coal landed in the first thirty hours, I det nined to pro-
ceed myself up Wellington Channel, by boat and sledge, in search of
Captain Pnllen, who had been absent from the North Star a month ;
m\(\, as his provisions must have been expended, there was some appre-
hension as to his safety.

I had the double motive of desiring to convey to Sir Edward Belcher
his despatches, as it would only be hj such means he could possibly
learn of my arrival until next season, unless he should return to Beechey
Island.

I started in my whale boat, with a month's provisions, at 9 a.m. on
the lUth of August, leaving written orders with the First Lieutenant,
a copy of which I enclose, marked "M 1," in case of any unforeseen
casualty preventing my return to the ship by the time the transport
was cleared, to run no risk of the ships being caught for the winter, but
to proceed to England without me.

Wellington Channel was then full of ice, and so rough with large
cracks and pools that it defied sledging, exce[)ting with a strong party.
Landing, therefore, on Cornwallis Island, a little above Barlow Creek,
we made an attempt to carry a small })unt over the ice ; but this proved
ineffectual, and I determined at last to proceed with ^Ir. Alston, mate
of the North Star, and two men, by land, to Cape Rescue. Each
carried a blanket bog, with a fortnight's provisions, and reached, vvith

\ f1

.">

??i

52 Nonrn-WEST passagk.

much «^xertion, the Cape, at 5 p.m. of the 13th of August. A })iocc of
open 1 ater off Htleii Haven, prevented our proceeding further ; and here
we learnt by notice, of Ca in Pullen's return to his shij), and his
having communicated with : Edward Belcher.

Depositing in the cairn di plicates of their lordships' dispatches for
that officer, we commenced our return ; and readied tlie tent on tlie litth
day of our absence, footsore and much exhausted with this new mode of
journeying in the Arctic regions, having travelled I'JO miles ; sleefting
without shelter on the bare beach, at a temperature several degrees
below freezing point, was a trial for all, more especially as we could not
eat the pemmican, and subsisted wholly on biscuit and tea, with the
exception of a few dovekies which I shot.

Up till the 12th of August, Wellington Channel was blocked with ice
as far as the eye could reach. The plan marked •' O 1 " shows its
position at this date, and the alteration I have made in the coast line of
the western shore.

I returned to the ship on the afternoon of the liHli of August, and
found that wind and changes in the ice had obliged the lirst lieutenant
to move the transport away tVorn Cajjc Uiley, and that the process of
unlading had been carried on but slowly by uieans of sleilges ; H^A)
packages had, however, been transported to the North Star hy these
means

On the 17th of August, a heavy gale from the south-east set the ice
on to the Cape so suddenly and with such violence that both ships
narrowly escaped being lost. The Phwuir was severely nipped, the ice
bearing down upon her with such force that the six hauscrs and two
cables laid out were snap])ed like paektliroad, and the siiip foreed
anrainst the land iee, liltiuij; lier stern five feet, and causiuij everv timber
to groan. The hands were tnrn"d \\\i, to be ready in case the ship
should break up; though there \_.il(l have bnii small clianee, in sueh
an event, of saving a man, as the wind blew so violently, with snow,
that it was inipossiljle to face it, and the ice in motion around the ship
was l)oiling up in a manner that would have defied getting a safe footing
to the most active of our crew.

Having once more got her alongside the derrick, we commenced to
clear with all hands, as I intended to finish the work without cessation,
if we laboured all night.

Wljile thus employed, I received by an official letter from Captain
PuUen (a copy of which 1 enclose, marked " L 1,"), a rej)ort of the
melancholy intelligence of the death of M. l5cllot, who had been sent
by Captain Pulleu on his return during my absence, to acrpiaint me of
the same, and to carry on the original despatches to Sir Edward IJelcher.
This unfortunate occurrence took place on the night of the <iale, wlien
M. Bellot with two men were driven olF from the shore on a floe ; and
shortly after, while rcconnoitering from the toj) of a hummock, he was
blown off by a violent gust of wind into a deep crack in the ice, and
perished by drowning. Tiie two men were saved by a comparative
miracle, and, after driving about for thirty hours without food, were
enabled to land and rejoiu tiieir fellow-travellers, who gave them pro-
visions ; and then all returned to the ship, bringing back in safety the
tlespatches, but three of them fit sidijects only for invaiidhig.

A scparatt! letter will give their lordships' further information relative

NOUiH-WKST I'ASSAUK.

of
i-re
his

tor

ith

ing

to the death of this excellent otHcer, wlio was sincerely regretted by us
nil. His zeal, ability, a:id quiet unassuming manner made him, indeed,
beloved.

The ice closing again obliged us to quit Cape Riley before midnight,
and, m endeavouring to push the ship into a bight in the land floe, the
I'hoenu touched the grouiul ; but came olf again iuimediately without
damage. The whole night was spent in struggling to get the ships into
a place oi security ; but the ice drove both ves2»'ls fast ^o the westward,
when at 3-30 a.m. of the 21st of August, the ice closing all round, both
vessels were secured to a tloe edge, but with steam ready to push
through the instant the ice should loosen.

Sho.tly, however, a rapid run of the outer floe to the westward
placed the Phwiiix in the most j)erilous position. I ordered the hands
to be turned up, not that aught could be done, but to be ready in case
of the worst to provide for tlieir safety. The ice, however, easing off,
having severely nipped this vessel, })asscd astern t the Breadaldane,
which ship either received the pressure less favoui /, or w.is less
e(pial to the emergency, for it passed through her starboard bow; ajid
in less than fifteen minutes she sunk in thirty fathoms of water, giving
tlie ])eople barely time to save themselves, and leaving the wreck of a
boat only to mark the spot where the ice had closed over her. Anti i-
pnting such a catastrophe, I got over the stern of the P/id'/ii.v, as soon
as the trans|)ort was struck, and was beside her when she filled, and
can unhesitatingly state that no human power could have saved her.
Fortunately, nearly the whole of the Government stores had been
landed.

lla\ing taken on board the shipwrecked crew, every ])reeaution was
used with regard to tlie safety of II' . Majesty's steam-vessel ; i)ut it
was not till the morning of the 'J2n(i of Aiigusit tliat we succeeded in
getting her to a safe j)osition in I'rebiis and Terror 13ay, where the ship
was again secured to the land iloe.

On the 2 Ith of August, (Japtain Inglefield left 13ecehey Island for
England; hut .vas shortly forced by a tog to take shelter in a little
harbour he discovered, and which iie named Tort (Jrahain. Here he
lay during a violent gale from tiie eastward, which, he says, was so
furious in its gusts, tliat though the sliij) lay under the lee of a lofty
hill, she drove, with two anchors, ahci'd. From the vast bodies of ice
driven uj) by the gale, he had a narrow escape from being frozen in for
the winter; hut with the aid of steam and sail, he succeeded, on the
1st of September, in getting out through a narrow opening, — clearing
Lancaster Sound on tlie .'h'd, arriving at Disco on the !)th instant, and
at Thurso on the Ith of October.— (Captain Ingletield proceeds to say:)

At Lieveley I obtained information of a coal mine about 2G miles
from the harbour, on the southern shore of the island, and I am told
that the coal to be obtained here is in such quantities that a ship might
take 1,000 tons. For burning in stoves, it is preferred by the Danes
to English coal. I obtained a sutticient quantity of an inferior sort to
make trial in our boilers. A copy of the chief engineer's report I
enclose, marked" L 7," and I have retained on board four casks of this
fuel for thtlr lordships' disposal.

I have now, in concluding the intelligence gained concerning tlie
Arctic searching squadrons, to acquaint their lor(lr;hi{)s of the dangerous

•f'l

<m:\

64 NORTII-WKST rASSAOK.

position in which the North Sta, passed the winter. Shortly after I
left Becchey Island in my yaclit, the Isabel, in 18")2, a violent grle
which I encountered in the Straits drove the North Star on shore,
where she remained during the whole winter, and was oidy got off
this spring, with nnu^h dirticnlty.

I omitted to mention that on our return south through Hattin's Bay,
we tried for soundings at a spot marked in the track chart, with 'J.S/O
fathoms, without getting hottom. The line was upwards of three hours
and a half in running out, and the lead employed niore tluni a half
hundred weight. — (I'his despatch is siyued " E. A. lN(iLi;iiiii-D,
CowDianf/cr.^')

The following letter, from Rear-Admiral W. E. Parry, copied from
the Times of Novemhor !)th, gives an interesting sketch of the proceed-
ings (f Lieutenant Cresswell, of the Iiirestii/nfor, the l)earer of Cajitiiin
M 'Clare's despatches, from the time he left his ship in Mercy J»ay
until he arrived in England : — •

Before Captain M'Clure left the Inrestif/ator for ^lelville Island, lie
arranged for Lieutenant Gurney Cresswell to follow with the more
sickly part of the crew. The ])arty consisteil of Mr. Wynniett (mate,
now lieutenant, invalided home), Mr. I'icra (assistant-surgeon), Mr.
Miertsching (Kscpiimaux inter])reter), and 'J 1 petty oiHcers, marines,
and sean:en.

April Iwth, at it.'M) a.m. — They left the sliip, the remaining part of
the officers and ship's company giving them three hearty cheers. There
was one sick man on the sledge from the time tliey left the ship until
their arrival at the Resolute. The wind blew strong from the west-
ward, with snowdrift ; hut, as all the rct^uisite arrangements had been
made for their start. Lieutenant Cresswell did not postpone it. At
6 p.m. they sighted the eastern land of the hay, and found by it that
they had made a good course. Shortly after leaving the ship, Corporal
Farcpdiarson and Jose})h Tacey broke down, and were obliged to fall
out of the drag roj)es — the former having pains in the chest, the latter
suffering from a tail shortly before leaving the hwestiyator. They
encamped on Point Back, about ten miles from the ship. On tiie Kith
they started at G a.m., but travelling proved veiy heavy, and the men
already showed signs of weakness. The l/tli they roiuided Cajie
Hamilton. The ice had been thrown up by tremendous external pres-
sure, between which and the laud they had to drag the sledges. To
accomplish this they were obliged to double-man the sledges —taking
two over at a time. As soon as they found a chance of pushing their
way through 'he hummocky barrier that lined the shore, they struck
ofl' on to the sea-ice, and encamped about two nulcs from the laiul.

A])ril '22nd. — They sighted Melville Island. Their daily journeys
varied ; scinetimes the sun gave them a look to cheer them on their
way, br.t, generally speaking, the weather was gloomy ; the men suffer-
ing from weakness and fatigue, and the difficulty of drawing the sledges
increasing from day to day. The ice was extremely rough and hum-
mocky. One day they came upon a large field of ice, from which the
vtind had blown away the snow, and the weight of the sledges appeared
comparatively nothing. They were passing rapidly along, when one
r.aan was found to be missing. It was a poor fellow who had showed
symptoms of mental imbecility, but until then liad travelled with the

■♦

NOIl'lH-WKST I'ASSAOE. r).")

rest. The detention was grievous, hut unavoidahle. They sent hack
to search for him. and found him in a pond of nu'lted snow. From
that time great (htHoulty was experienced in getting him along. lie
was always throwing hiuiself on the snow to lie down They dared not
])ut him on one of the sledges, as already the weight was groat enough
for their enfeelded party, witii one man totally unahle to walk and their
needful haggage,

Ap.ril 'MH\\. — At (i.lU) a.m., just as they were heginning their day's
march, two men were seen coming towards the tents from the eastward.
They proved to he Mr. Pirn and a seaman, witli a sledge and dogs ; he
had heen sent out hy Ciiptain Kellett to assist them in, and lanil some
stores in Winter llarhour. He was nmcli surprised to find this party
so far advanced in their journey. Lieutenant Cresswell wished him to
land the things, as they did not retpnre any immediate assistance. At
this time CMiarles Anderson, l)eing umible to widk any further, was taken
on the sledge. Notwithstanding this extra weight, they made excellent
progress, the men being in high spirits on the strength of being so near
the Resolute.

May 2nd. — They started at 1 1 p.m., and arrived on hoard the lleso-
hite at 1 a.m. on tlie following day. Captain Kellett and M'Clure met
them on the floe, ('ajitain Kellett gave them the heartiest welcome. The
journey from the Iniestujator was made in IG days, the distance 1/0
miles.

The day following (May -1) (,'aptain M'Clure set off on his return to
liis ship, and was aceomj>anicd by the surgeon of the Resolute, with
instructions to examine into the health of the crew ; Cai)t!\in Kellett,
as senior ofHcer, having determined that, if 20 able-bodied men volun-
teered to reiuain with Captain M'(Jlure, that dauntless officer should be
at liberty to stay by j»is ship and attempt to bring her through, should
the season render it possible.

It was Captain Kellett's strenuous wish that a party of the Invesli-
ffufors men should go on to the North Star, at IJeechey Island ; but
as, out of 24, only two were not affected with scurvy, he was obliged to
al)andon the design, (.'aptaiii Kellett placed the Inrestiyators de-
spatches in the hand of Lieutenant Cresswell, with directions to proceed
to the North Star, in company with Mr. Roche (mate), with a p-'rty
of 1 1 men, the boatswain of the Resolute, and Lieutenant Wynniett, of
the Invest iffutor.

On the 13th of May they saw two musk oxen. Lieutenant Cresswell
and Mr. Roche w.Mit in pursuit. They wished to have shot only the
cow, but, having wounded her, the bull would not let them approach
her ; they, therefore, had to shoot him also. The sledge being very
heavily laden, they could not take more than the hind-quarters of the
cow away with them. Such is arctic life. For 18 months before quit-
ting the III vest iffator nearly starved, and now leaving 800 or 900 pounds
of excellent fresh beef for the wolves and foxes !

On the morniuy; of the '2nd of June thev arrived on board the North
Star, Captain PuUen, at lieeehey Island. The jcurney was 300 miles,
and had occupied four weeks to accomplish.

On the 8th of August the Phoenix arrived, conunanded by Captain
Inglefield. At that time Captain Pullen had been away a mouth from
the North Star, to communicate with Sir Edward Belcher. Bv the

"^J

ADVKRTriTMKNTS.

time he returned the season wns rnpidly ndvnucing, and the opinion ''•f
the tnost ex|toricn('od wns decided that Captain Inglelield, in the Phctnir,
•hoiild no longer delay his return home, hy waiting for Sir Edward
Belcher's arrival at Jieochev Inland.

On the 'j;3rd of August tlie Vhcenix left Hecchoy Island. She touched
at Disco, at Licvely taking in coaU, and at HoUcsteiuburgh, where they
put in, to complete their iistronomicnl ohservatioiis. At both places
they met with Escpiimaux, and joined with them in the dance aud song.
The women were clean and neat, and i)ccaliarly simple and modest in
their conduct.

On the Ith of October, Captniu Injcleficld and Lieutenant Cresswell
landed at Thurso, at the extreme nortli of Scotland. Fifty-three hours'
travelling broiiirlit tlieiii to London. On Friday, October 7th, they
arrived at the Adinirnlty with tidings that the geographical nncstion of
the long sought for Nurtli-West passage had been satisfactorily solved.

BETTS'S FAMILY ATLAS,

, OF GKMmAT, AND PlIYSICAI, GEOGnAPlIY,

1NCI.DDING A COlMOrs INDK.V OK NKARf.Y FIFTY-KIVE THOUSAND NAMKS.

» • • / *'-

~ ■>.-. T : Elegantly but substantiall If Half bound in Turkey Morocco, price
- .;"..'".• Three Guineas,

The Phesident of llm Royai. Gi,o(iiiAiMiirAi. Society, in his annual addresH
to the members, in speakinii; of tliis Ati-as, siiys : — "^Ir. Betts has published an
Atlas containing some Nkw Featukes, and rendered extremely valuable By a
most copious Index comprising nearly .'5i5,000 n.itucs of places. In addition to the
latitudes .ind longitudes usually given, there is an arrangement, by reference to
which, the situation of any required place can be easily learned, &c,, &c. Several
entirely new maps of India, Canada, Polynpsin «ff>., are also iiitroduced."

The great advantage of the mode of reference alluded tc in th"? foregoing para-
graph, and which i^ peculiar to this Index, can only br; fully a})preciated by those
who have frequent occasion to consult an Atlas. By means of it, che eye is almost
instantaneously diretrted to the point of the map where the name appears, and the
whole object is usually accomplished in less time than is necessarily expended in
ascertaining the projeclional proportions of a map, preparatory to reference on the
old system.

In the present edition of the Atlas, a large number of new and highly important
maps have been introduced (making in all Sixty-four), and the whole Work has
undergone a thorough and careful revision. The Maps of England, Wales,
Scotland, and Ireland, are on an unusually large scale, and extraordinary care
has been exercised in order to exhibit the various lines of Railroad with, minute-
ness and accuracy : the Turnpike and principal Cross- roads, Mountains, Rivers,'
Canals, &c., are also carefully delineated ; and some idi a of the elaborate character
of the work may be inferred from the fact, that the Map of England and Wales a)one
contains nearly 9,000 names.

The Maps of the British Col <i e also on a large scale ; and a continuous

care will be maintained to intro . new discoveries and setdements as they may

occur ; and the proprietor feels < < : , lliat no work of the kind, either as respects
price or quality, will be found inort .it-..crving of public favour.

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