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??HW HAVR?f:

l*rill^l>SIIKI> »Y H.rO.VVRRMK

REM

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ARKS

MADK

^J.

- ON A SHORT TOUR

aSTWBKN

HARTFORD AND QUEBEC,

W THB

AUTUMN OF 1819

BY THE AUTHOR OF A JOURNAL OF TRAVELS IN ENGLAND,
HOLLAND AND SCOTLAND.

♦ \

SECOND EDITION,

WITH CORRECTIONg AND ADDITIOHS.

NEW-HAVEN:

PRINTED AND PUBLISHED BY 8. CONVER9K

1824.

DISTRICT OF COJ^J^ECTICUT, ss.

BE IT RKMKMBKitKD, That On the twelfth

.day of August, in the forty-fifth year of the Inde-

] pendcDce of th' United States ofAmerit^a, Beh-

JAMlir SiLLlMAir, of the »id District, hath de-

por'ited in this Office the title of a book, the right

whereof he claims as Author, iu the words folloM-iog, to wit :—

*' Remarks made ou a short Tour between Hartford and Que-
"bec, in tlie Autumn of 1819; by the Author ot a Journ:«l of
*' Travels in England, Holland and Scotland. Second edition,
*'with corrections and additions."

In conformity to th«> act of the Cona:rc58 of the United States,
entitled, *^ An Act for the encouragement of learning, by securing
the copies of Maps, Charts and Books, to the authors and propri-
etors of such copies, during the times therein mentioned/'

CHAS. A. INGERSOLL,

Clerk of the Dinlrict of Connecticut.
A true copy of Record, examined and sealed hv me,

CHAS. A. INGERSOIX,
Clerk of the District of Conneetitut.

■< !

PREFACE.

During the excursion, which produced this small
▼olume, I begun, with an intention of ske'chini; a •«iiio9
of short articles, in some decree popul.ir and gene ral
in tht'ir character, and still of such a cast as would 'ul-
mit of their being thrown, occasionally, into the Aitieri-
can Jtiurual of Science.

Before the close of the journey, these remarks, al-
though written hastily, in public houses, and in stoam-
bo-tts, became too extensive for the object first intend-
ed. For reasons, with which it i^), perhaps, unnecessa-
ry to trouble the reader, it has since been thought ad-
visable to print them, after due revision, in the form in
which they now appear.

The geological notices are, with few exceptions, pla-
ced under distinct heads, and may, without inconven-
ience, be omitted by those to whom they are uninterest-
ing. But, the geological features of a country, being
pnrmanent — being intimately connected with its scene-
ry, with its leading interests, and even with the very
character of its population, have a fair claim to delinea-
tion in the observations of a traveller ; and this course,
however unusual with us, is now common in Europe.
I regret that my limited time did not admit of more ex-
tended and complete observations of this nature, and I
cannot flatter myself that they are always free from
error.

The historle.-.l remarks and citations have been the
more extended, from an impression, that less has been
said by travellers in America, than might have been ex-
pected, of scenes and events, which, to Americans, I
conceive, must ever be subjects of the deepest interest.

The friend, in whose company this tour was made,
having been in the habit, when travelling, of taking
hasty outlines of interesting portions of scenery, and of
finishing them af\er his return, did, in this instance, the
same ; and, although when executed, they were not in-

4 rRErAct:.

tenHed for ptiMication, the drawings, which illustrate
so'iio oftlie <-ctM)cs in this work, were, at my request,
furnished hy him

The CMirrivcp, Mr. S. S. Jonelyn, of New-Haven, a
yninija; mm of twenty, ahnost entirely self-taught, evin-
ces I. dents, deserving of encourajjement, and which
hiive been highly spoken of, by the first historical pain-
ter in this coutjtry.

Thi» little accidental work does not assume the digni-
ty of a book of travels ; it contains no adventure, and
claims to be merely a series of remarks, and of state-
ments of facts, respecting some portions of this country,
and of a neighboring province.

BENJAMIN SILLIMAN.

Yale College, August lUA, 1820.

^■.,-

\'^

<:)

h illustrate
iy request,

v-HavPD, a
uf^fit, evin-
ind which
rical paiQ>

the digni-
ntnre, and
1 of state-
s country,

JMAN.

PREFACE

TO THE SECOND EDITION.

The first edition of this* book, although a large one»
havinu; been a ;;oo(l while exhuHted, and the inquiry
for it still continuing, on the jv.irt of those who visit
Lower Canjula, and the intorvening countries, I have
consented, at the request of the respectable Individual,
who undertakes the pnblicalion, to revise these " Ke-
minki»" for another Edition.

The principrd object has been, to correct a number
of errors, ujenendly, however, not of primary impor-
tance, which h;ive been pointed out to me, by the kind-
ness of several friends and correspondents. To those
who h ive sent anonymous communications, 1 now re-
turn my thanks, for the candid manner in which they,a8
well as others, have treated the subject, and I have
shown'my sense of the value of all these sugs;estions, by
adopting them, except in one case, where I have stated
my authority. — I allude to the death of B iron Dieskau.

1 have not thought it necessary, to nild a map, as sug-
gested by one of my unknown friends, because, the
country travelled over, is already so well delineated, la
many maps.

Since the publication of this book, 1 have again visited
the Lakes and the batllii ;;roun(ls, and have therefore, ia
the present edition, interspersed vario ;s aiiditional re-
marks, observations, and notices of historical firts,
which, perhaps, may be found to add to the value of the
work, as a pocket companion of trainllcrs.

Possil)ly the reader miy think it foiinn ate, lh d the
feeble state of my health has prevented these uddilioDS
from being still more extended.

1 (
1

;-|

f PREFACE.

As this little volume has been recently republished in
London,* I have to regret, that the reprint had not been
made from the present edition, that four of the plates
were omitted, and that for the vignette in the the title
pa^e, a very poor ivood cut has been substituted. It
is but justice however to say, that the four prints which
have been preserved viz. one of Monte Video — o'le of
Quebec, and both those of Lake George, are beautifully
executed.

It may not be improper to add, that besides nume-
rous expressions of approbation, as regards the correct-
ness of this work, received from intelligent and rei>pect-
able inhabitants of Cannd;i, 1 have enjoyed the advan-
tage of the direct revision and correction of two Eng-
lish Gentlemen, attached to the British army, and I have
in the present edition, availed myself of all the criti-
cisms, which they have been so kind as to make.

I shall venture to close these remarks by an extract
of a letter from one of these gentlemen.

** I beg leave to make my best acknowledgements, for
the gratification I experienced in perusing your sketches
of Canada. The shortness of your stay among us, pre-
ventedyourenteringinto those details,onourconstitution,
administration, tone of society, general happiness, virtue,
agriculture, scenery, geology, &c. which might have
given occasion for a few more corrections. I consider
your little work as a most faithful and spirited transcrip
of the impressions which our rivers, cities, commerce,
language &c. and the external coat or surface of our so-
ciety, make on a transient visitor. Its tendency is
highly conciliatory and friendly, and it will always be
quoted as a just and pleasing picture of these countries
for the year 1820." B. S. .

Y, C. May, 15, 1824. , '

* Id ft collection of voyages and travel* by SirR. Phillips, k Co.

■•>

<!)

CONTENTS.

No.

PUNTS.

Fagt.

(Quebec from Point Levi, (Vignette on title pnge)

Description of this print, - - - 269
1. Monte Video, from the south rock, (fron-
tispiece)
£. Approach to the house, facing page • l6
Description of No*s 1 and 2, - - - 10

3. Luke George from the village of Caldwell,
(facing page) - - - - 148

4. Lake George from Fort George, (facing
page) - - - - - 150

Description of No's Sand 4, - - - 149

5. Approach to Quebec from the S. W. (fa-
cing page) ----- 230

Descriptionof No. 6, - - - - 229

6. Part uf Quebec from the wharf, (facing page) 232
Dearription of No. 6, - - - - 233

7. Falls of Montmorenci, (facing page) - 248
Description of No. 7> - - - - 248

8. Lumber establishment at Montmorenci,
and bay of Quebec, ('facing page) - 254

Description of No. 8, - - - - 253

9. Quebec, from the mouth of the Chaudiere,
(facing page) - - - - 272

Descripiion of No. 9, ... 272

PRIIfCIPAL TOPICS.

Monte Video, near Hartford ; description of its

scenery, ------ 10

Middle region of Connecticut ; its scenery and geol-
ogy, 17

Primitive country ; its commencement, - - 28

Churches,; zeal for building them, - - - 30

(■'■ '

( }.

\ \

CONTENTS.

Page.

American Inns ; peculiarities in their manners, 3S

Ririe to Sandi.^field, 35

Ride to Lenox, 37

Geology between Sandisiield and Lenox, - - 38

Lenox ; sketch of the place) - . • - 39

Ride to New-Lebanon, ----- 40

Shakers ; their villages, &c. - - - - 41

New-Lebanon; its mineral spring, . - - 46

its scenery, - - - - 61

Ride to Albany, 64

Geology between New-Lebanon and Albany, - 66

Aibany ; sketch of the place, . . - 68
Hudson river; scenery and Geology of its banks

above Albany ----- 66

Horse ferry boat ; a new and singular one, - 68

Troy. Lansingburgh, and Waterford, - - 69

General Burgoyne's expedition, - - - 71

Stillwater; houi^e where General Frazerdied, 81

The battle ground, 96

Gen. Gates' camp, ----- 97

G«»neral Frazer's grave, - - - - 108

' The iasi encampment of the British army, - 1 IS

The last house of refuge, - - - ll5

The field of surrender, - - - - ll8

Reflections tind remarks, • - - 121

Stillwater to SandyHill, 126

Geology between those places, - - - 128

Fort Edward, 129

Murder of Miss M'Crca, ... - 131

Sandy-Hill; massacre there, . - - - 137

Baker's Falls, NO

Excursion to Lake George, . - - - 142

Glen's Falls, ------ 142

Lake George ; prospect from its head, - - 145

and its environs ; remarks on them, 131

its battles, - - - - \56

Fort William Henry, - - - - 158

The bloody pond, l62

Fort William Henry; the massacre there, 1()3

Mineralogy and geology of Lake George, - l68

{

CONTENTS.

Pa?e.
32
35

66
68
69
71
81
96

97
108

lis

115

113
121
126
128
129
131
137
140
142
142
145

Fagre.
Fort Anne ; battle in its vicinity, - - - 177

Whitehall; the canal, 180

Port; sketch of the place, - - 182

The old man. of the Age of Louis XI V. - - 183

Lake Charnplain ; passuge down, - - -101

Ticonderoga, - - - - - -195

its lines and ruins, its battles, 198
A night on the Lake, - - - - 205

Morriinw scenery ; Plattsburgh, &c, - - 206
Entrance into Canaila, - - - - . 208

St. Johns; and ieparture for Montreal, - - 210
Monireal; (irst glimpse of it, - - - - 212

River St Lawrence; passage across it, - - 213
Montreal; first impressions of the place, • - 214
A public house ; its accommodations, - - 215
Guests ; their manners, ----- 2l6

The St. Lawrence; evening scenes on its waters, 217

day scenes on its waters, and

its banks, 219

Passage to Quebec, 220

Town of Sorel, 221

Approach to (Quebec, - - - - 227

Entrance into (Quebec, 234

Cmadian Calash, 237

Beauport and Montmorenci ; excursion to those

places, ------ 238

Geology between Quebec and Montmorenci, - 242
Falls of Montmorenci, - . - - . 244

Saw-mills and lumber, - . - - - 249

Quebec and its environs ; view of them from Beau-
port. ------- 262

Battle of Montmorenci, - ... - 256
Falls of Chaudiere; excursion to them, - - 268
Projected road to Maine, . - . . 277

Quebec; night view of, and end entrance into it, 278
Plains of Abraham; death of Wolfe, and

Montcalm, - - - - 279

Its fortifications, • - - - 291

Geological andmineralogical remarks, 298 to 303

Death of General Montgomery, - - - - .'308

General Arnold's party, - . . . 314

J t

I \

l"(

{ .

)

CONTENTS.

Page.
Castle of St. Louis, and Death of the late Duke of

Richmond, . _ - . 317

General remarks on Quebec, - - - - SSI

River St. Lawrence, S37

Steam-boats, 342

Dangers of steam-boats, - - - . . 344

An incident, 346

Night scene on the river St. Lawrence, - - 349
Frederick Pursh, the botanist, (Note) - - 350
Montreal; the mountain, - . . - 351

Montreal ; Geology and mineralogy of it& environs, 355
Mode of building, - - - - '

Besmty of its environs, - - -
Race-course, and racing,
lt!« importance, - - . -
Miscellaneous remarks upon it.
North- West Company, - - -
Aborigines, ------

Ploughing match, - - - - -

Agricultural dinner, - - - -

History, &c.

Caution to strangers in Canada, . - -
Peculiar mode of extracting teeth, ...
Catholic worship, . . . . -

French language, - - • - - -

Population ; manners ; costume; villages;
political situation, &c. . - -
Departure from Canada, - - - -

Plattsburgh bay,

Anecdotes,

Burlington to Hanover, - • - - •
Geology and mineralogy from Lake Champlain,

Hanover,

Dartmouth College, . . . -

Connecticut river; ride dow its banks, -

Geology,

^ Bellows Falls,

Geology and mineralogy, . - - -

Bt-attleborough,

Geology, &c. - - - - * • —
Greentioia, Deerfinld, and other towns, to Hartford, 431
Addenda — historical, &c. .... 438

357
359
360
361
363
371
373
375
376
380
383
364
286
389

391
398
402
404
409
416
416
417
419
421
422
424
426
428

Page,
^uke of

317
321
837
342
344
346
349
350
351
viron9, 355
357
359
360
361
363
371
373
375
376
380
383
384
286
380

Uages;

391
398
402
404
409
415
416
417
419
421
422
424
426
428

rtford, 431
43 i

TOUR, ^c.

liemarki made, on a short tour, belteeen Uailford and
QuebeCt in the autumn of IQIO'

Relaxation and health, and the gratification
of a reasonabU curiosiiy, were our immediate mo-
tives, for undertaking this journey. Quebec was
our uhimate destination, but we were not disposed
to neglect interesting intervening objects, and us we
were unincumbered by business, and travelled by
ourselves, we were masters in a good degree, of our
own movements.

On the twenty-first day of September, we left
Hartford for Albany. A blustering equinoctial gale,
had been howling for two days, but without rain, and,
as a severe drought had long prevailed, clouds of
dust rose, in incessant eddies, and, driving before a
violent wind, filled the atmosphere, and enveloped
every object. We were not however prevented by
the storm of sand and dust from setting out, nor, by
the rain which soon followed, from proceeding.
The fine turnpike upon which we commenced our
journey, was, but n few years eince, a most rugged
uncomfortable road ; now wc passed it with case

^^ V.

'1 -

l< '

10 TOUR BI/rWliEN HARTFORD AND QUEBKC.

and rapidity, scarcely perceiving its beautiful undu-
lations, which, gradually rising, as we receded from
the Connecticut river, brought us, within an hour
to the foot of Talcot mountain.

MONTE VIDEO.

Afterconstantly ascending for nearly three miles,
we reached the highest ridge of the mountain, from
which a short but steep declivity, brought us to a
small rude plain, terminated at a moderate distance,
by the western brow, down which the same fine
turnpike road is continued. From this plain, the
traveller who wishes to visit a spot called Monte
Video, remarkable for the extraordinary beauty of
its natural scenery, will turn directly to the north,
into an obscure road, cut through the woods, by the
proprietor of the place to which it leads. The
road is rough, and the view bounded on the east, by
the ridge, which, in many places, rises in perpen-
dicular cliffs, to more than one hundred feet above
the general surface of the summit of the mountain.
On the west, you are so <^hut in by trees, that it is
only occasionally, and for a moment, that you per-
ceive there is a valley immediately below you.

At the end of a mile and an half, the road ter-
minates at a tenant's house, built in the Gothic style,
and through a gate of the same description, you en-
ter the cultivated part of this very singular country
residence.

Here the scnne is immediately changed. The
trees no longer intercept your view upon the left,

Vsj

L'EBKC.

Jtiful undu-
ceded from
in an hour

hree miles,

mtain, from

ght us to a

te distance,

( same fine

i plain, the

lied Monte

Y beauty of

the north,

ods, by the

jads. The

he east, by

in perpen-

feet above

mountain.

}, that it is

you per-

you.

road ter-

hic style,

n, you en-

r country

ed. The
the left,

TOUll BETWEEN HARTFORD AND HtEBK('

and you look almost perpendiculaily, into a valley
o! extreme beauty, and great extent, in the highest
state of cultivation, and which, although apparently
within reach, is six hundred and forty feet below you.
At the right, the ridge, which has, until now, been
your boundary, and seemed an impassable barrier,
suddenly breaks off, and disappears, but rises again
at the distance of half a mile, in bold gray masses,
to the height of one hundred and twenty feet.
crowned by forest trees, above vvhicli appnars a
tower of the same colour astiieiocks.

The space or hollow caused by the absence ot
the ridge, or what may be very properly called the
back bone of the mountain, is occupied by a deep
lake, of the purest water, nearly half a mile in length,
and somewhat less than half that width. Directly
before you, to the north, from the cottage or tenant's
bouse and extending half a mile, is a scene of culti-
yation, uninclosed, and interspersed with trees, in
the centre of which, stands the house. The ground
is gently undulating, bounded on the west by the
precipice which overlooks the Farmington valley,
and inclining gently to the east, where it is termina-
ted by the fine margin of trees, that skirt the lake^
After entering the gate, a broad foot-path, leaving
the carriage foad, passes ofif to the left, and is carri-
ed along the western brow of the mountain, until
passing the house, and reaching the northern ex-
tremity of this little domain, it conducts you almost
irpperceptibly, round to the foot of the cliflTs, on

I I

li Toun BtnvKE.v RAntroRD and Quebec.

which theTowsr stands. It then gradually passes
down the north extremity of the laiie, where it
unites with other paths, at a white picturesque build-
ing, overshadowed with trees, standing on the edge
of the water, commanding a view of he whole of
it, and open on every side during the warm weather,
forming at that season, a delightful summer house,
and in the winter being closed, it serves as a sheU
ter for the boat. There is also another path which
beginning at the gate, but leading in a contrary di-
rection, and passing to the right, conducts you up the
ridge, to what is now the summit of the south rock,
whose top, having fallen ofT, lies scattered in huge
fragments and massy ruins, around and below you.

From this place you have a view of the lake, of
the boat at anchor on its surface, gay with its stream-
ers and snowy awning : of the white building at the
north extremity of the water, and, (rising immedi-
ately above it,) of forest trees and bold rocks, in-
termingled with each other, and surmounted by the
Tower.

To the west, the lawn rises gradually from the
water^ until it reaches the portico of the house, near
the brow of the mountain, beyond which, the west-
ern valley is again seen.

To the east and north, the eye wanders over the
great valley of Connecticut river, to an almost
boundless distance, until the scene fades away,
among the blue and indistinct mountains of Massa-
chusetts,

-^^^►^ '•''♦»-» %« K -A^

UEBEt.

TOUR BKTWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC,

lally passes
5, where it
>sque build-
>n the edge
e whole of
m weather,
liner house,
;s as a shel*
path which
contrary di-
s you up the
south rock,
■ed in huge
below you.
the lake, of
li its stream-
ilding at the
ng immedi-
d rocks, in-
nted by the

from th«
jhouse, near
, the west-

The carriage road, leaving the two foot-paths,
(just described,) at the gate, passes the cottage and its
appendages, inclining at first down towards the wa-
ter, and then following the undulations of the ground,
where the ascent is the easiest, winds gently up to
the flat on which the house stands. Along this road
the house, the tower, the lake, &c. occasionally ap-
pear and disappear, through the openings in the
trees ; in some parts of it, all these objects are shut
from your view, and in no part is the distant view
seen, until passing through the last group of shrub-
bery near the house, you suddenly find yourself
within a few yards of the brow of the mountain, and
the valley with all its distinct minuteness, immedi-
ately below, where every object is as perfectly visi-
ble, as if placed upon a map. Through the whole of
this lovely scene, which appears a perfect garden,
the Farmington river pursues its course, sometimes
sparkling through imbowering trees, then stretching
in a direct line, bordered with shrubbery, blue, and
•still, like n clear canal, or bending in graceful sweeps,
round white farm houses, or through meadows of
the deepest green. *

The view from the house towards the east, pre-
sents nothing but the lake at the foot of'tlie lawn,
bounded on the north and south by lofty clifTs, and
on the opposite shore, by a lower barrier of rocks,
intermixed with forest trees, from amongst which, a
road is seen to issue, passing to the south along the
brink of the water, and although perfectly safe.

v/ t|

.-r-.J

)

•»

.1 I

14 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFOF,' AND QtEBEC.

appears to form, from that quarter, a dangerous en-
trance to this retired spot. .1

Every thing in this view, is calculated to make an
impression of the most entire seclusion ; for, be-
yond the water, and the open ground in the imme-
diate neighbourhood of the house, rocks and forests
alone meet the eye, and appear to separate you from
all the rest of the world. But at the same moment
that you are contemplating this picture of the deep-
est solitude, you may without leaving your place,
merely by changing your position, see through one
of the long Gothic windows of the same room,
which reach to a level with the turf, the glowing
western valley, one vast sheet of cultivation, filled
with inhabitants, and so near, that with the aid only of
a common spy-glass, you distinguish the motions of
every individual who is abroad in the neighbouring
village, even to the frolicks of the children, and the
active industry of the domestic fowls, seeking their
food, or watching over, and providing for their
young. From the same window also, when the
morning mist, shrouding the world below and fre-
quently hiding it completel)' from view, still leaves
the summit of the mountain in clear sunshine, you
may heUr through the.dense medium, the mingled
sounds, Qccasioi'ed by preparation for the rural oc-
cupations of the day. • » ' ' •■ ;•

From the boat or summer house, several paths
■diverge ; pue of which, leading to the northeast, af-
ter passing through u nairow defile, is divided into

LCBEC.

igerous en-

to make an
1 ; for, be-
the imme-
and forests
fce you from
me moment
f the deep-
^our place,
lirough one
ime room,
be glowing
ation, filled
3 aid only of
: motions of
^ighbouring
ec, and the
eking their
for their

when the
w and fre-

still leaves
ishine, you
le mingled
le rural oc-

eral paths
rtheast, af-
ivided into

TOUR between HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 15

two branches ; the first passes round the lake, and
generally out of sight of it, for a quarter of a mile,
until descending a very steep bank, through a grove
of evergreens, so dark as to be almost impervious to
the rays of the sun, even at noon day, it brings you
suddenly and unexpectedly out, upon the east-
ern margin of the water, into the same road which
was seen from the opposite side, and from thence
along it, to the cottage, beyond the foot of the
south rock. The other branch of the path, after
leaving the defile, passes to the east side of the
northern ridge, and thence you ascend through the
woods, to its summit, where it terminates at the
Tower, standing within a few rods of the edge of the
precipice. The tower is a hexagon, of sixteen feet
diameter, and fifty-five feet high ; the ascent, of about
eighty steps, on the inside, is easy, and from the
top which is nine hundred and sixty feet above the
level of Connecticut river, you have at one view, all
those objects which have been seen separately from
the different stations below. The diameter of the
view in two directions, is more than ninety miles,
extending into the neighbouring states of Massa-
chusetts and Now- York, and comprising the spires
of more than thirty of the nearest towns and villa-
ges. The little spot of cultivation surrounding the
house, and the lake at your feet, with its pictur-
esque appendages of winding paths, and Gothic
buildings, shut in by rocks and forests, compose the
fore-ground of this grand Panorama.

- *..*- ^^ " ^ '— ■-

_i^ — ' • If

I )

rl ^

I'j

Hi TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC,

On the western side, the Farmington valley ap-
pears, in still greater beauty than even from the low'
er brow, and is seen to a greater extent, presenting
many objects which were not visible from any oth-
er quarter. On the east, is spread before you, the
great plain through which the Connecticut river
winds its course, and upon the borders of which the
towns and villages are traced for more than forty
miles. The most considerable place within sight,
is Hartford, where, although at the distance of eight
miles in a direct line, you see, with the aid of a
glass, the carriages passing at the intersection of
the streets, and distinctly trace the motion and po-
sition of the vessels, as they appear, and vanish, up-
on the river, whose broad sweeps are seen like a
succession of lakes, extending through the valley.
The whole of this magnificent picture, including in
its vast extent, cultivated plains and rugged moun-
tains, rivers, towns, and villages, is encircled by a
distant outline of blue mountains, rising in shapes of
endless variety.

The annexed prints, Nos. 1 and 2, will give some
illustrations of the scenery on the top of the moun-
tain. They exhibit different views of the lake, the
cultivated lawn, the buildings, the surrounding for-
est, and rocky pinnacles and tower; but still, it
must be remembered, that they give only some
parts of the scene on the top of the mountain, with*
out conveying any adequate idea, of the altitude

1. I

m'^.

I /

^r:S.:L_.

'EBEC.

valley ap-
m the loW'
presenting
tn Any oth-
•e you, the
ticut river
' which the
than forty
ithin sight,
ice of eight
le aid of a
rsection of
an and po-
i^anish, up-
seen hke a
the valley,
icluding in
;ed moun-
re led by a
I shapes of

give some
he moun-
lake, the
ding for-
it still, it
nly some
ain, with*
altitude

m \

t4 I

»«

„X\ „--**>^«'^ -^

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC 17

o( the place, and scarcely a glimpse of the remote
scenery. Indeed, a full illustration of the beauties
of tliis mountain, would require a port folio of viewa^
and would form a fine subject for the pencil of a
master. .

As the beauty and grandeur of this place depend,
principally, upon certain general facts, relative to the
geological structure and consequent scenery of the
middle region of Connecticut, it may not be amiss
to sketch, in a very general way, what I believe has
been no where sketched^ at all.

{

Scenery and Geology of the Middle Region of Con-

necticutt

Among the objects which most powerfully arrest
the attention of a traveller, natural scenery gene-
rally occupies a distinguished place. No person,
however heedless in observation, or torpid in feel-
ing, can fail to experience some degree of interest In
the features drawn upon the face of the earth by
the hand of the Almighty, or to preserve some
recollections of them. Even those whose views
rise not above their immediate occupations, and
who contemplate the earth only as a place on which
they may live and act, and as a reservoir from which

♦This is no longer true : Mr. Hitchcock in the 7th VqI. of the
ADaerican Journal of Science, 8ic. has recently given an Interest-
ing sketch, (1824.)

18 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND <IUEBEC.

I !

emolument may flow, are still attentive to deep
sands and rocky defiles, to dangerous bogs and
marshes, and to mountain chains, when they defeat
or enhance the toils of cultivation, or oppose for^
midable obstacles to travelling. National character
often receives its peculiar cast from natural scenery.
The hardy mountaineer, at least in the early stages
of society, instinctively despises and easily subdues
the soft inhabitant of rich alluvial plains ; and the
peculiar characteristics of the Scotch Highlander,
of the Bedouin Arab, aAd of the Hindu, are derived
as much from the mountains, the sandy deserts, and
the luxuriant vallies and plains, which they re-
spectively inhabit, as from other causes. Natural
scenery is therefore, always worthy of observation,
and it will be a never-failing sourcr> of delight to
those, who, thou3h perhaps not themselves painters
or poets, participate in any degree in their faculties
and perceptions ; and find in mountains, plains, and
▼allies—in streams, lakes, and woods — in cataracts
and caverns — in cultivated regions, and in untamed
solitudes— in narrow efiles, and in the boundless
horizon, ever varying sources of pleasure, and inev
haustible topics of admiration and praise.

Neither should it be forgotten, that the peculiar
features of every landscape are not fortuitous. The
nature of the rocks, which, more or less prominent,
or buried at a greater or less depth, form the firm
substratum of every country, determines also the
linearoants of the surface; and although the Arab of

EBEC.

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 19

e to deep
bogs and
:hey defeat
)ppose foFf
1 character
al scenery,
arly stages
ly subdues
^ ; and the
Highlander,
ire derived
leserts, and
h they re-
5. Natural
observation^
• delight to
res painters
sir faculties
plains, and
n cataracts
n untamed
boundless
[, and inex-

he peculiar
>us. The
Iprominent,
the firm
IS also the
Ihe Arab of

the desert, while he looks over his boundless ocean
of saod, and the Norwegian, while he clinnbs his
snowy mountains, is unconscious of this truth, it is
still an acquisition to every intelligent mind.

Thus,natural scenery is intimately connected with
taste, moral feeling, utility, and instruction.

In no country perhaps, is it more varied than in
North America, and it constantly bears a close rela-
tion to the geological structure of the different re-
gions. Even in so limited a country as Connecti-
cut, there are features so widely different, as hardly
to escape the observation of the most negligent trav-
eller. The greater part of this state, being compos-
ed of primitive formations, exhibits the usual aspect
of such countries, and is, with few exceptions, (and
those relating principally to the alluvion of rivers
and of the sea shore,) hilly or mountainous.

In most parts of Connecticut, the traveller passes
a succession of hills and hollows, bounded by large
curves, sometimes sinking deep and rising high, so
as to create great inequality of surface — ascents and
descents frequently arduous; but rarely, except at
fissures and chasms, exhibiting h gh naked precipi-
ces of rock. ' . ' , t '•

But, the hills and mountains are not all similar in
ihoif outline, and, in one region in particular, th«
physiognomy of the country is very peculiar. * • '* --

At New-Haven, commences the region of se-
condary trap or greenstone, referred to above. It
completely intersects the state, and the state of

-tf. __

' :#•

J <

20 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND Q,U£BEC.

Massachusetts, like a belt, and even passes to the
confines of the states of Vermont and New-Hamp-
shire.

Through the whole extent of this district, as in a
great valley among the ridges, the Connecticut river
flows, except below Middletown, near which the
river passes through a barrier of primitive country,
which continues uninterruptedly to the ocean, a dis-
tance of twenty-five or thirty miles.

In the mean time, the trap region passes off in a
direction south-westerly, end obliquely, with re-
spect to the Connecticut river, and to the sea coast :
it intersects parts of Durham,Guilford,and Branford,
and unites again with the primitive in East-Haven, on
the eastern side of New-Haven harbour. There,
near the light-house, granite ledges are found conti-
guous to, although not, (as yet,) in absolute contact
with the trap.

The other boundaries of this region of second-
ary trap or greenstone, (as it is more frequently
called, may be thus stated, with sufficient accuracy.
The primitive forms the western termination of
New-Haven harbour, and proceeding northerly,
through parts of the towns of Woodbridge, Chesh-
ire, Wolcott, Bristol, Burlington, Cunton, and Gran-
by, crosses into Massachusetts by South-Hampton,
Northampton, Hatfield, Deerfield, Greenfield, and
Bernardston, and terminates very nearly at the Ver-
mont line. Returning, on the eastern side, this re-
gion is bounded by parts of Northfieid, Montague,

S '

*% X

JEBEC.

isses to the
ew-Hamp-

irict, as in a
icticut river
: which the
ive country,
icean, a dis-

sses off in a
y, with re-
e sea coast :
id Branford,
st-Haven, on
ur. There,
found conti-
>1ute contact

of second-
|e frequently

t accuracy.

mination of
g northerly,
jdge, Chesh-
|n, and Gran-

h-Hampton,

cnfield, and
at the Ver-

side, this rc-

id,lMon(nguc,

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 21

Leveret, Pelham, Belchertown, Granby, kc. and
pasgiog into Connecticut at Somers— 'it is bounded
by parts of Ellington, Vernon, Bolton, Glastenbury
and Chatham : at this latter place it again strikes
the Connecticut river a little below Middletown,
where tl}is sketch commenced.*

This region is more than one hundred miles long,
and varies in breadth from three miles to- twenty-
five. Its basis is composed of stralitied rocks, in-
clined to the east generally at a small angle to the
horizon ; sand stone is the most conspicuous of
these rocks, and it has every variety, from very
Bne grained to coarse ; sometimes the rock is a
breccia, or a pudding stone, or a mere conglomerate.
Generally, beneath the sand stone we fiinl varieties
of slaty rocks, sometimes impressed with vegeta-
bles and fish, and containing small veins of jet and
coal.

The most conspicuous feature of this region is
composed of the fuie ridges of gi^p«nstone trap,
which pervade it, generally in the direction of its
length, and reach from the sea-shore at New-Haven,
with little interruption, to Greenfield and Gill, in
the northern purl of Massachusetts.

These ridges of greenstone repose almost univer-
sally upon sand stone, f and as this rock is by the

♦I am indcbled to Mr. Hitchcock's geological mnp (a»eAvatir.
Joum. of Science, vol. 1, p. 109,) for a part of these boundaries.

t The only exceptions that I »m ocquaiuted with, are those
ruentioneii by Mr. Hitchcock in the Amcricau Jourual uf Suiefi<^fl,
vol. 1, p. lOdi

e 1 i^*

A' !(

22 TOUK BETWEEN HARTFOllD AND QUEBEC

consent of all, regarded as a secondary formation,
proceeding from the ruins of other rocks, it follows,
of course, that whatever rock reposes upon it, must
also he secondar}'. Hence, these greenstone ran-
ges are called secondary. The rock is called green-
stone, from its having, generally, a dark bottle green
colour, and trap, from its being often in the form
of steps or stairs — the word trap, in the Swedish
language, from which it is derived, having this sig-
nification. The constituents of the greenstone trap,
are, generally, the mineral called hornblende, for
its basis, with feldspar intimately blended, sometimes
visibly, and sometimes even in distinct crystals. —
This rock is not hard, but it is very diflicult to break
— is sonorous — endures the weather very well, and
forms an excellent material for building.

But the most striking circumstance to a traveller,
is, the peculiar physiognomy imparted to this re-
gion by the rocks of which we are speaking. Gen-
erally, throughout the district whose boundaries
have been sketched, the greenstone mountains
rise in bold ridges — stretching often, league after
league, in a continued line — or with occasional in-
terruptions — or in parallel lines — or in spurs and
branches. O.ie front (and generally it is that which
looks westerly,) is, in most instances, composed of
precipitous clilfs of naked frowning rock, hoary with
time, moss grown, and tarnished by a superficial
decomposition. This front is a perfect barrier, look-
ing like an immense work of art, impassable in most

DEBLC.

' formation,
I, it follows,
pon it, must
nstone ran-
lUed green-
jottle green
in the form
le Swedish
ing this sig-
nstone trap,
blende, for
, sometimes
crystals. —
ult to break
ry well, and

■

I a traveller,
to this re-
, Gen-
joundaries
mountains
sague after
asional in-
spurs and
that which
mposed of
loary with
uperficial
|rier, look-
le in most

TOUll BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 23

places, composed frequently of ill formed pillars,*
standing side by side, and receding one behind an-
other, at diflferent elevations, like rude stairs. These
pillars terminate, at last, in a regular ridge, well de-
fined, like the top of a parapet, and generally crown-
ed with trees, which, at the elevation of from two
or three, to seven or eight hundred feet, form a beauti-
ful verdant fringe, often of evergreens, which is finely
contrasted with the rocky barrier below. Although
this is the general form of these hills, some of them
are conical, or of irregular shapes ; but the barrier-
form is so common, that, in many parts of (his dis-
trict, the country seems divided by stupendous walls,
and the eye ranges along, league after league, with-
out perceiving an avenue, or a place of egress.

Most of the ridges are parallel, and it is when
IraveUing at their feet, that one is most forcibly
struck with their castellated appearance. In some
parts of the district, it is impracticable, for many
miles, to find a passage for a road, or for a stream ;
and both, when they cross the direction of the ridg-
es, are wound through narrow rocky defiles, often
singularly picturesque and wild, with their lofty im-
pending cliffs, and with their fallen ruins. Indeed,
the immense masses of ruins which, both in this dis-
trict, and in the similar districts of other countries,
are collected at the feet of the greenstone ridges,

• In some places, as on the front of iMoiint Ilolyoko, near North-
ampton, Ihfy uie n-'iilrxr pillurs, liko thr>«>r of (hp Cilnnt's Cause-
way.

X» .»»- «

'24 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC.

* ft

({

i I

form a very striking obect. Often they slope, with
a very sharp acclivity, half, or two thirds of the way
lip the mountain, and terminate only at the rocky
barrier; the ruins are composed of masses of every
size, from that of a pebble, which may be thrown
nt a bird, to entire cliifs and pillars, of many tons
weight, which, from time to time, fall, with fearful
concussion, into the vallies. This kind of rocky
avalanche is so common among the greenstone
mountains, that it is often heard, and sometimes, in
the stillness of night, by those who live in the vicin-
ity.

The cause is obvious. The greenstone rocks
are often composed of contiguous, separate pillars
or portions, connected only by juxta-position, and
severed by fissures both vertical and horizontal ;
into the former, the rain and snow water filters ;
and when it freezes, the rocks are, by the well
known and irresistible expansion of the congealing
water, strained asunder, and whenever, either by
the gradual undermining, produced by the weather,
or by the stone diggers, who fearlessly work under
the impending cliffs, their centre of gravity ceases
to be supported, they come thundering down, like
the Alpine glaciers, and strew their ruins beneath.

The two bluffs at New-Haven, called the East
and the West Rock, have been (especially the for-
mer,) in a great measure despoiled of their ruins,
and, to some extent, even of their columns, in order
to supp'*. (h': dcmaiuls of architecture: but in mo»l

rEBEC.

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 2o

slope, with
of the way
t the rocky
es of every
be thrown
many tons
i¥ith fearful
id of rocky
greenstone
nnetimes, in
u the vicin-

stone rocks

[rate pillars

^sition, and

horizontal ;

iter filters ;

>y the well

congealing

either by

e weather,

ork under

ity ceases

own, like

Is beneath.

the East

lly the for-

^eir ruins.

Is, in order

lut in nno»l

parts of the greenstone region of Connecticut and
Massachusetts, the venerable piles are undisturbed,
and the hoary columns, tempest-beaten for ages,
stand, the durable monuments of other times.

On the side of the greenstone ranges, opposite
to that which presents a mural front, there is gene-
rally a gradual slope ; often not of difficult ascent,
and covered with trees and verdure, so that a trav-
eller coming first upon the front, or the rear, would,
if unaccustomed to such mountains, have no correct
idea of the opposite side.

Such are the outlines of the scenery, and of the
rocks upon which it depends, in tiie middle region
of Connecticut.

It enables us to understand the peculiarities of
the beautiful and grand scenery of Monte Video,
which makes this villa, with its surrounding ob-
jects, quite without a parallel in America, and prob-
ably with few in the world.

To advert again, briefly, to a few of its leading
peculiarities. It stands upon the very top of one
of the highest of the greenstone ridges of Connecti-
cut, at an elevation of more than one thousand, two
hundred feet above the sea, and of nearly seven hun-
dred above the contiguous valley. The villa is al-
most upon the brow of the precipice ; and a traveller
in the Farmington valley sees it, a solitary tenement,
and in a placeapparently both comfortless and inac-
cessible, standing upon the giddy summit, ready, he
would almost imagine, to be swept away by the

«.<:v-

f .

26 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC.

first blast from the mountain. The beautiful crys-
tal lake is on the (op of the same lofty greenstone
ridge, and within a few yards of the house ; it pours
its superfluous waters in a limpid stream, down the
mountain's side, and affords in winter the most pel-
lucid ice that can be imagined. Arrived on the top
of the mountain, and confining his attention to the
scene at his feet, the traveller scarcely realizes that
he is elevated above the common surface. The
lake, the Gothic villa, farm house and offices, the
gardens, orchar" •, and serpentine walks, conduct-
ing the stranger through all the varieties of moun-
tain shade, and to the most interesting points of
view, indicate a beautiful but peaceful scene ; but, if
he lift his eyes, he sees still above him, on the north,
bold precipices of naked rock, frowning like ancient
battlements, and on one of the highest peaks, the
tall tower, rising above the trees, and bidding defi-
ance to the storms. If he ascend to its top, he con-
templates an extent of country that might consti-
tute a kingdom— populous and beautiful, with vil-
lages, turrets and towns ; at one time, he sees the
massy magnificence of condensed vapour, which re-
poses, in a vast extent of fog and mist, on the
Farmington and Connecticut rivers, and defines,
with perfect exactness, all their windings ; at anoth-
er, the clouds roll below him, in wild grandeur,
through the contiguous valley, and, should a thun-
der storm occur at evening, (an incident which eve-
ry season presents.) he would view with delight,

<.|

7EBCC.

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 27

lutiful crys-
greenstone
>e ; it pours
1, down the
e most pel-
on the top
ition to the
ealizes that
*ace. The
:)ffices, the
I, conduct-
s of moun-
g points of
ene ; but, if
I the north,
ke ancient
peaks, the
dding defi-
p, he con-
ht consti-
with vil-
e sees the
which re-
it, on the
1 defines,
at anoth-
randeur,
d a thun-
hich eve-
delight,

chastened by awe, the illuminated hills, and corres-
ponding hollows, wl h every where, fill the great
vale west of the Talcott Mountain, and alternately
appearand disappear with the flashes of lightning.

Descending this mountain to the west, the travel-
ler is powerfully struck with the view of the enor-
mous masses of greenstone rock, which lie in con-
fusion upon the slope of the mountain. They are
the largest masses of this kind of rock, that I have
any where seen. One of them is twenty-five feet
in diameter. They lie in every form of disorder —
alone, or piled one on another, and plainly evincing,
agreeably to the general fact in every country,
where greenstone mountains abound, that they,
more than almost any other, cover their declivi-
ties with fallen ruins ; that in some period of anti-
^ quity, the contiguous ridges were vastly more ele-
^ vated than at present, and that these dissevered
masses, cleaving off from the ridges to which they
were attached, were precipitated with irresistible
violence, down the side of the mountain, till they
found a resting place in solitudes, then trod only by
the wild beasts, or by the savage aboriginals. '

Alluvial* country succeeds to the Talcott moun-
tain, and for miles, we pass over gentle undulations
abounding with water-worn pebbles.

The red sand stone which every where in Con-
necticut, as well as in many other countries, forms
the basis of the greenstone mountains, makes its

* Such tracts as this are oow called diluvial.

-Oi.

28 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC.

,■) ■

appearance in various places, and constitutes, along
with this species of trap, the most common building
stone of the country.

COMMENCEMENT OF THE PRIMITIVE COUNTRY.

At the distance of thirteen miles from Hartford,
we crossed the first ridge of gneiss. This is a part
of the great barrier of primitive rocks which, as I
have already stated, bounds the secondary region of
Connecticut on the west, and in a moment, changes
both the .'^'^ology and the picturesque features of the
country.

It is worthy of remark, that the primitive coun-
try, on the eastern side of the Connecticut river,
comes in at nearly the same distance from Hartford
as on the western side. As we ascend the Bolton
hill, going towards Norwich, we come to the prim-
itive rocks, which there, are mica slate, filled with
garnets and staurotide. 1 suppose these two boun-
daries of the primitive, are therefore about twenty-
five miles apart. Generally, the boundary of primi-
tive which limits the great secondary greenstone re-
gion of Connecticut, already described,is distinguish-
ed by the contour of the hills, which is rounded, and
they are commonly of greater elevation than the
ridges of trap or greenstone. Thus it is impos-
sible, for a traveller to go through the length of
Connecticut, without traversing its secondary green-

[7EBEC.

TOUB BETWi N HART) )RD ANO QUEBE4|

tutes, along
9n buildine;

COUNTRY.

1 Hartford,
s is a part
^hich, as I
y region of
nt, changes
tures of the

itive coun-
ticut river,
n Hartford
the Bohon
» the prim-
filled with
two boun-
It twenty-
y of prinni-
^nstone re-
istinguish-
nded, and
than the
IS irnpos-
length of
ary green-

stone region. As he descends lOm th -. high
rounded primitive hills, on eith side, ne will
be struck with the distinct ridges of greenstone
rock, and with the long and often narrow vallies
between them. Mount Holyoke and mount Tom,
near Northampton, and the blue hills of Meriden,are
parts of these greenstone mountains. The State's
prison of Connecticut, or Newgate, is in one of these
ranges, or rather in the sand stone which lies under
it, and from this prison to New-Haven a distance of
fifty or sixty miles, one rides almost at the foot of a
nearly uninterrupted barrier of greenstone, frequent-
ly from four to seven or eight hundred feet high.
It is amusing to observe how immediately the mate-
rials of the fences and of the buildings, as far as they
are constructed of stone, change as soon as the geol-
ogy of the country changes. For some miles, after
we left the Talcott mountain, the materials of these
structures continued to be fragments of greenstone
and of sand stone ; but, as soon as we crossed the
line of the primitive, these stones disappeared, and
gneiss and other primitive rocks began to exhibit
themselves in the houses and fences. Thus, these
structures become in some measure, cabinets of the
geology of a country, for, the people will of course
collect those stones for use, which are most preva-
lent, and in many instances, they will be loose frag-
ments of the most prevailing rocks ; or, if the stones

30 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND q,UEBG0.

be obtained by quarrying, then they become still
surer criteria of the nature ofthe country.

i;]

*'.

ZEAL FOR CHURCHES.

In the valley of Northington we passed a beautf-
ful new meetinghouse. It is a handsome specimen
of architecture, and is one of three places of public
worship, recently erected in this little parish, which,
a short time since, had only one miserable ruinous
house, situated in the midst of a forest.

I once attended public worship there on a pleas-
ant but warm summer sabbath. The house was al-
most imbowered in ancient forest trees ; it was
smaller than many private dwelling houses — was
much dilapidated by time, which had furrowed the
gray unpainted shingles and clapboards, with many
water-worn channels, and it seemed as if it would
soon fall. It was an interesting remnant of prime-
val New-England manners. The people, evident-
ly agricultural, had scarcely departed either in their
dress or manners, from the simplicity of our early
rural habits. I do not mean that there were no ex-
ceptions, but this was the general aspect of the
congregation ; and, from the smallness of the
house, although there were pews, it seemed rath-
er a domestic than a public religious meeting.
The appearance ofthe minister was correspondent,
to that of the house and congregation, as far as an-

T,— ..

W'.

JEBCe.

come still

i a beautf-
J specimen
5 of public
sh, which,
le ruinous

n a pleas-
ise was al-
;s ; it was
uses — was
rowed the
vith many
it would
of prime-
evident-
er in their
jur early
re no ex-
of the
of the
led rath-
meeting,
pondent,
far as an-

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 31

tiquity and primeval simplicity were concerned) but
htt was highly respectable: for understauding, and
sustained, even in these humble circumstances^ the
dignity of his station. He was an old man, with
hoary locks, and a venerable aspect, a man of God,
of other times — a patriarchal teacher — not caring
for much balanced nicety of phrase, but giving
his flock wholesome food, in sound doctrine, and
plain speech. His prayer^ had that detail of peti-
tion — that specific application, both to public aid
private concerns, and that directness of allusion, to
the momentous political events of the day, and their
apparent bearing upon this people, which was com-
mon among our ancestors, and especially among the
first ministers, who brought with them the fervor of
the times when they emigrated from England.

This aged minister is still living, but since the
destruction of his ancient house, and the division of
his people, he is without any particular charge ; still,
however, although oppressed with the infirmities of
advanced life, he occasionally officiates in public.
Instead of the ancient house, there have now ariser>
the three handsome modern churches.

We are not, however, to infer that increased re-
sources, nor additional zeal for religion has reared
these edifices; it was the effect of local jealousies,
as to the place where a new house should be built,
and how often, in our New-England yillages, do
we see this circumstance produce the same result,
adding to the beauty, but, perhaps, not always to
the harmony and piety of the neighbourhood.

32 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFOED AND QUEBEC.

It would be easy to give a considerable list ot
towns in Connecticut, where two spires rise instead
of one* because the people could not agree where
the one should be placed. Happier would it be, if
these separations had always been free from animos-
ity — if they had not sometimes laid the foundation
ef permanent discord, and if there had been no in-
stance of outrageous violence, and the prostration of
all law and order^ while people were professing only
to honor their Maker, and to benefit their fellow
men. But still, who that is friendly to the best in-
terests of mankind can fail to be gratified, with the
constant succession of churches and spires which he
observes in Connecticut, and who would not prefer
the active interest that is manifested on this subject,
although attended with occasional irregularities — to
that apathy which permits a land to remain without
temples to the living God, and rarely salutes the ear
with the sound of" the church going bell?^'

Passing through a part of Canton, we arrived in
a cluster of houses, handsomely situated on the
Farmington River.

PECULIARITIES IN THE MANNERS OF AMERICAN

INNS.

This was a part of New-Hartford where we din-
ed pleasantly; every thing was good, and neatly and
well prepared, and we were attended by one of
those comely respectable young women, (a daugh-
ter of the landlord,) who, so often, in our public

■i^

EBEC.

ible list ot
'ise instead
rree where
Id it be, if
>m animos-
foundation
een no in-
Dstration of
essing only
leir fellow
he best in-
d| with the
s which he
not prefer
!iis subject,
iarities — to
lin without
ites the ear

•

arrived in
ed on the

VIERICAN

re we din-
neatly and
by one of
(a daugh-
>ur public

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFOUD AN1> <tWEBEC. 33

houses, perform these services, without departing
from the most correct, respectable, and amiable de-
portment.

This is a peculiarity in the manners of this coun-
try which is not at once understood by a foreigner,
and especially by an Englishman. Such a person,
if uninstructed in the genius of the country, almost
of course presumes, that all those whom he sees in
public houses are in servile situations. If he adopt
towards them an imperious and harsh manner, he
gives offence, and produces coldness, and possi-
bly resentment, so that the interview ends in mu-
tual dissatisfaction. If the traveller should write
a book, he, of course, enlarges on the rudeness of
American manners, and it is very possible that even
llie servants of our inns may give him some oc-
casion for such remarks, if they are treated as per-
sons of their condition commonly are in Europe.
Some years since, to an Englishman emigrating fo
America, the obvious causes which often disgust the
English, and ofTend the Americans when the former
are travelling among the latter, and especially in the
smaller towns and villages, were faithfully pointed
out. It was strongly recom«niin(led to him, rather
W nsk as a favour, what he had a right to command
as a duty — to treat the heads of the public houses,
with marked respect, and their sons and daughters,
who might ho in attendance, and even the servants,
with kindness and courtesy, avoiding the use of
terms and epithets which might imply iiiferiot t(y

34 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFOHD AND QUEBEC.

'I
I- I

and servitude, to make their duties as light as pos-
sible, to raanifest no unpleasant peculiarities, and
to make no unreasonable demands, with respect
to food, wines and cookery. He was assured,
that with such a spirit, he would be treated with
respect and kindness — that he would be cheerfully
served — that the best the house afforded would be
promptly obtained by him, and should he ever visit
the same house again, that he would probably be re-
membered and welcomed with cordiality. It was sug-
gested, that he must indeed, occasionally, concede
something to familiarity and curiosity, but that with
an amiable spirit and courteous deportment, he would
not meet with rudeness or neglect, or have occa-
sion to write an angry sentence concerning the Ame-
ricans ; and he was told, that even the familiarity and
curiosity which are sometimes unpleasant, would be
commonly repaid, by the communication of valua-
ble local information.

As the gentleman to whom these remarks were
addressed, was gay, and had been a military man,
he was cautioned not to presume thatan^ members,
of the families at the public houses, might be treat-
ed with levity, for, he would find that fathers and
brothers were at hand, and pecuniary considerations
would be sacrificed, at once, to the respectability of
the house. After this gentleman had travelled four-
teen months in the United States, he came to the
town, where his adviser resided, and thanked him
for his cautions. He said that they had been of th*

, I

tf'

.»

QUEBEC.

light as pos-
liarities, and
with respect
was assured,
treated with
e cheerfully
ed would be
lie ever visit
ibably be re-
'. It was sug.
ly, concede
>ut that with
mt, he would
have occa-
»g the Ame-
niliarity and
It, would be
)n of valua*

marks were
itary man,

members,
It be treat-
athers and
siderations

lability of
elled four*
me to the

nked him
een of th*

Si
1

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND (QUEBEC. 35

greatest service to him, that he had found the pre-
dictions fully verified, and himself treated with hos-
pitality and kindness, while he had seen others of
his countrymen, pursuing an opposite deportment,
meet with very unpleasant treatment, and creating
both for themselves and others, perpetual dissatis-
faction.

RIDE TO SANDISFIELD.

In the afternoon, during a ride of sixteen miles,
which brought us to Sandisfield, in Massachusetts,
we never left the banks of the Farmington river,
which, owing to its windings, and our own, we
crossed during the day, no fewer than seven times,
and on as many bridges. We had now left the Al-
bany turnpike, and the great thoroughfare of popu-
lation and of basiness, and purposely deviated into
one of those wildernesses, which, intersected by
roads, and sprinkled with solitary houses, afford the
traveller an interesting variety, and easily transport
bira back in imagination, to the time when the whole
of this vast empire was a trackless forest. In a very
hilly and almost mountainous region, we found a
delightful road, so level, that our horses hardly ever
broke their trot ; the road generally followed the
river, and was laid out with few exceptions, on the
alluvial bottom, which the river had formed. We
passed almost the whole distance, through a vast
defile in the forest, which every where bung around

iG TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND qUEBEC,

(

1 1

■i

us in gloomy grandeur, presenting lofty trees, rising
in verdant ridges, but occasionally scorched and
blackened by fire, even to (heir very tops, and
strongly contrasted with the diffs and peaks of rude
rocks, which here and there, rose above the almost
impervious forest.

This tract of country had the stillness of a rural
sceno, imbosomed in mountains; there were no
villages, and the few scattered farm houses were
scarcely near enough, even for rural neighbourhood.
Their very graves were solitary : little family cem-
eteries several tirties occurred, marked by whrte
marbfe monuments, and by graves covered with
the richest verdure, while the gloomy bier stood,
hard by, in the field, ready again to support its mel-
ancholy burden.

It was quite dark before we arrived at Smdis-
field;^ wind, rain and gloomy portentous clouds,
driving over the dark hills, might have made our
ride, for a few of the last miles, somewhat anxiou?,
but, our road was good, and the welcome light of
the inn, at length caught our eyes, and a quiet eve-
ning, passed with our pens and books, beguiled our
time till the hour of repose. A tolerable house was
made comfortable, by the assiduity and kindness of
its tenants, and our sleep, in a great vacant ball
room, was not much interrupted by the rain, drop-
ing on the floor, and by the wind, howling throti,s;li
broken panes of glass.

Sandisfirld i" thiitv-six miles fi'om Harlforc'

^
H

QUEBEC

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 37

trees, rising
orched and
' tops, and
iaks of rude
i the almost

I of a rural
e were no
ouses were
[ibourhood.
amily cem-
d by whfte
leered with
bier stood,
ort its mel-

at Sandls-

us clouds,

made our

Lt anxious,

light of

uiet eve-

uiled our

louse was

ndness of

leant bull

In, drop-

g throua;^,

RIDE TO LENOX.

Our equinoctial storm still continued, and we set
forward before eight in the morning, in the midst of
a driving rain. But, as the coachman was wrapped
in a weather proof great coat of oiled silk, and we
were completely protected from the rain, we pursu-
ed our journey, without the slightest inconvenience.

The war of the elements corresponded very well
with the wild scenery through which we were to
pass. For ten miles, we again followed the course
of the Farmington river; our road was one contin-
ued vista, through an uninterrupted wilderness of
the most lofty trees ; occasionally, the wide forest-
crowned ridges caught our eyes, ns they showed
theYnselves through the openings of the wood, or
towered above its top ; but, for the most part, the
river, now much diminished in size, murmuring
over a rocky channel, and presenting many a formi-
dable barrier of drift wood, recently accumulated
by an unexampled deluge of rain, was a principal
object of contemplation; while the forests, inter-
spersed with numerous pine trees, rising to a great
height, often burnt to their very summits, and totter
ing to their fall, appeared, as if, only recently inva-
ded by man, and as just beginning to resign its soli-
tary dominion, to the axe and to the fire.

The river, we crossed again and

agai

numborcd the ninth lime, and then, a few miles from
the confines of Lenox, we traced it to its source, in

V^-

■ -^r- •

39 TOUR BETWEEN MARTPORD AND QUEBEC.

a lake, of probably half a mile or more in length.
Thus we bade adieu to our littleriver, after having
been familiar with it for fortymiles, and for near-
ly thirty, we had constantly travelled upon its
banks, finding a smooth road in the midst of a rug-
ged country.

To those who would wish to enjoy an interlude
of forest scenery, almost in the wildness of nature,
and little more subdued by man, than is necessary
to render it comfortable to travel through, this ride,
from New-Hartford through Sandisfield, to Lenox,
may be strongly recommended. Such a tract, in
the midst of well cultivated regions, is in this coun-
try rare, and probably more resembles a western
wild, than a district in an old and populous state.

Soon after passing this lake, the country began to
descend; another lake of greater magnitude occur-
red on our left — a river soon succeeded, and we
recognized these waters, as the first of those which
begin to feed the infant Housatonick.

CiKOLOGY.

The rocks on our ride, were, almost invariably,
gneiss, frequently intersected by distinct veins of
granite, in which feldspar generally predominated.
Not far from Lenox we passed two forges, the iron
ore for which we were informed, is dug out of the
hills in the vicinity of that town.

EBEC.

rOUR BETWEEN HARTfORD AND QUEBEC. 39

in length,
iter having
I for near-
upon its
t of a rug-

i interlude
)f nature,
necessary

this ride,
:o Lenox,

tract, in
this coun-
a western
ous state.
' began to
de occur-
I, and we
se which

variably,
veins of

minaled.
the iron

It of the

As we ascended the hills on which Lenox stands,
white primitive limestone began to appear, in de-
tached masses, in spots uncovered by quarrying, and
in ridges crossing the road ; the strata were nearly
vertical, and like those in Litchfield county, in Con-
necticut, were imbedded in gneiss.

LENOX.

Lenox, the capital of Berkshire county, is a town
of uncommon beauty. It is built upon a high hill,
on two streets, intersecting each other nearly at
right angles ; it is composed of handsome houses,
which, with the exception of a few of brick, are
painted of a brilliant white ; it is ornamented with
two neat houses of public worship, one of which is
large and handsome, and stands upon a hill higher
than the town, and a little removed from it. It
has a jail, a woolen manufactory, a furnace for hol-
low ware, an academy of considerable size, and a
court house of brick, in a fine style of architecure ;
it is fronted with pillars, and furnished with conven-
ient offices and a spacious court room ; this room is
carpeted, and what is more important, contains a li-
brary for the use of the bar. Lenox has fine moun-
tain air, and is surrounded by equally fine mountain
scenery. Indeed, it is one of the handsomest of our
inland towns, and even in the view of an European
traveller, (who had eyes to see any thing beautiful, in
what is unlike Europe,) it would appear like a gem

•1

"f .^"^ ■

■|M i

■■..hi

■^

40 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC.

among the mountains. There are probably about
70 houses, stores, and shops. Its population is one
thousand three hundred and ten.*

White marble is often the material of their steps,
foundations and pavements. This country abounds
wiih primitive white limestone. '

Our dinner and treatment at the inn, were such as
a reasonable traveller would have been very well
satisfied with, at a country tavern in England. Still,
probably no small town in England is so beautiful
as Lenox, nor have the Europeans, in general, any
adequate idea of the beauty of the New-England vil-
lages.f — Lenox is fifty-eight miles from Hartford.

RIDE TO NEW-LEBANON.
As we ascended a mountainous ridge, two miles
on the road to New-Lebanon, a fine retrospect oc-
curred. Immediately below, was a spacious and
deep basin, environed by mountains, which, reced-
ing one behind another, presented in one view, bril-
liant forest green, in another, dark hues, almost
black, and fiirther off, ridges and summits struggling
through clouds and mist, and rain, in obscure and
gloomy grandeur. Beautifully contrasted with
these, was the bright clustre of buildings in Lenox,
compact, blended by perspective into one rich group,

* Worcfster's Gazetteer. *

t "There is nothings in Britain that bears any resemblance to a
New England town, and it is not easy to convey an adequate idea
of its singular neatnes?."-.Z)wncan'» Trwelsin the United Stales f
Ac. 1023. Vol. t,p. 93.

V,.

QUEBEC*

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 41

obably about
)uiation is one

)f their steps,
intry abounds

were such as
Jen very well
ngland. Still,
s so beautiful
general, any
■England vil-
n Hartford.

e, two nwles
respect oc-
pacious and
lich, reced-
5 view, bril-
ues, almost
s struggling
bscure and
asted with
5 in Lenox,
rich group,

emblance to a
aJequate idea
Cnited Stalest

in which turrets, and Gothic pinnacles and Grecian
coluiniis were conspicuous, decorating the declivity
of the hill, now sunk by comparison, to one of
moderate elevation.

It were in vain to attempt to describe all the fine
mountain scenery, which, with endless variety, was
perpetually occuring and perpetually changing.
Rich vallies and basins, were every where, mixed
with the hills and mountains, on whose declivitiea
and summits, cultivation had often spread scenes of
fertility and beauty.

The lofty Saddle mountain with its double sum-
mit-— the highest mountain in this region, appeared
at a distance on our right ; — on our left, the fertile
vales of Richmond, a scattered agricultural town, and
almost before we were aware ot it, we wound our
way down the steep declivity of the mountain, which
bounds the southeast side of the vale of New-Leb-
anon. We had already passed upon our right, a
small village belonging to the people, called Sha»
kers, or Shaking ^uakers<

Vn.LAGE OF THE SIIAKEK5>.

We did not deviate into this first settlement, be-
cause their principal establishment, in this quarter,.
was immediately before us, and we were indeed not
Inlly clear of the mountain, before We found our-
selves in the midst of their singular community.
Their buildings are closely arranged, along a street of

-^uxe^rt^ ^jtA^T^ T" ""■

' tk

/ I;

y !/

[ i

42 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND q,I7EB£C.

a mile in length. All of them are comfortable, and
a considerable proportion are large. They are, al-
most without an exception, painted of an ochre yel-
low, and, although plain, they make a handsome
appearance. The utmost neatness is conspicuous in
their fields, gardens, court yards, outhouses, and in
the very road ; not a weed, not a spot of filth, or any
nuisance is suffered to exist. Their wood is cut
and piled, in the most exact order ; their fences are
perfect ; even their stone walls are constructed with
great regularity, and of materials so massy, and so
well arranged, that unless overthrown by force, they
may stand for centuries ; instead of wooden posts
for their gates, they have pillars of stone of one sol*
id piece, and every thing bears the impress of labour,
vigilance and skill, with such a share of taste, as is
«onsistent with the austerities of their sect. Their
orchards are beautiful, and probably no part of our
country presents finer examples of agricultural ex-
cellence. They are said to possess nearly threa
thousand acres of land, in this vicinity. Such neat-
ness and order I have not seen any where, on so
large a scale, except in \iolIand, where the very
Becessities of existence ifMipose order and neatness
upon the whole population ; but here it is volumary.
Besides agriculture, it is well known, that the
Shakers occupy themselves much, with mechanical
employments. The productions of their industry
and skill, sieves, brushes, boxes, pails and other do-
R^estic utensils are every where exposed for sale, and

at
fi

al
bl

fal

1 • V

'■"":'""*'**"•"" * — •♦■-'— »^ '—.—-^-.^M^

EBEC.

table, and

5y are, al-

)chre yel-

landsome

»icuous in

IS, and in

th, or any

»d is cut

?nces are

icted with

y, and so

)rce, they

den posts

f one sol<

oflabour,

iste, as is

. Their

Ft of our

tural ex-

ly three

uch neat-

e, on so

he very

neatness

)luii\ary.

that the

chanical

industry

>therdo-

sale, and

TOCR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBECfi 43

are distinguished by excellence of workmanship.
Their garden seeds are celebrated for goodness,
and find a ready market. They have many gardens,
but there is a principal one of several acres which I
am told exhibits superior cultivation.

Their females are employed in domestic manu-
factures and house work, and the community is fed
^nd clothed principally by its own productions.

The property is all in common. The avails of
the general industry are poured into the treasury of
the whole ; individual wants are supplied from a
common magazine, or store house, which is kept
for each family, and ultimately, the elders invest
the gains in land and buildings, or sometimes in
money, or other personal property, which is held
for the good of the society.

It seems somewhat paradoxical to speak of a
family, where the relation upon which it is found-
ed is unknown. But still, the Shakers are assem-
bled in what they call families, which consist of lit-
tle collections, (more or less numerous according to

• the size of the house) of males and females, who oc-
cupy separate apartments, under the same roof, and
eat at separate tables, but mix occasionally (or soci-

i ety, labour or worship. There is a male and a fe-
male head to the family, who superintend all their

f concerns— give out their provisions— allot their
employments, and enforce industry and fidelity.
The numbers in this village, as we were inform-

l ed by one of the male mumbers, are about five hun-

^. t

44 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFOUD ANi> (^LEBEl .

'. '

drcd, but there arc said to be (iftccn hundred, inclu-
ding other villages in this vicinity. Their num-
bers are sustained by voluntary recruits, allured.
it is said, by kindness, to join the society; and des-
titute widows, frequently^ come in, with their
children, and unite themselves to this commu-
nity. Where a comfortable subsistence for life,
a refuge for old age, and for infancy and childhood ;
the reputation (at least with the order) of pie-
ty, and the promise of heaven are held out to view,
it is no wonder that the ignorant, the poor, the be-
reaved, the deserted, the unhappy, the supersti-
tious, the cynical and even the whimsical, should
occasionally swell the numbers of the Shakers.

Th6ir house of public worship is painted white,
and is a neat building, whose appearance, would not
be disreputable to any sect.

The order, neatness, comfort, and thrift, which
are conspicuous among them, arc readily account-
ed for, by their industry, economy, self-denial and
devotion to their leaders, and to the common inte-
rest, all of which are religious duties among them,
and, the very fact that they are for the most part,
not burdened with the care of children, leaves them
greatly at liberty, to follow their occupations with-
out interruption.*

♦They have another collection of house: in the vicinity, wliere
1 was told they place offending trembcrs, who bein^ uniler disci-
pline, are for the time, excluded froai the community, and whona

red, inclu-
lieir num-
s, allured.
; and des*
irith thcir
i commu-
e for life,
childhood;
r) of pie-
it to view,
>r, the be-
supersti-
al, should
liakers.
ted white,
would nut

ift, which
' account-
enial and
Tion inte-
}ng them,
nost part,
Lves them
ons with-

iiity, wliere

mder disci-

aad whom

TOUR BETWEEN llARTFORB AND uUEBEc:. 45

But — where is the warrant, either in reason or in
scripture, bj which whole communities, (not here
and there, individuals, peculiarly situated,) with-
draw themselves from the most interesting and im-
portant of the social relations — from the tender char-
ities of husband and wife— from the delightful assi-
duities of parental love— from that relation, on which
flociety stands, and on which as on a fruitful stock,
is grafted, every personal and domestic virtue, and
every hope, both for this world and a better!!

By what right are they empowered to recruit their
ranks, thinned from time to time, by death, by drawing
upon the social world, whose obedience to the first

they style backsliders. I am told that they are not offended by being
called Shakers, and do not regard it as an opprobrious epithet,
Indeed, 1 have never heard of a milder or more respectable name,
tor I would not use an opprobrious or ludicrous term, to designate
a community distinguished by many virtues. --<

t More is not here attributed to the institution of marriage, than
it deserves, for, (o try the question, we must ask, not, what is the
condition of, here and there, a convent and a monastery, or of a
few clusters of Stiake[*s rotected as they are by society, y<Min(/ec/
on marriage, and drawinj their recruits from the offaprino; of its
virtuous affectioQB. We mast inquire what would be tLe condi-
tion of the world, were the institution of marriage entirely aboitsfi-
ed! It is obvious, that ii woula soon become the vniverial theatre
of crimes, of every description, which are now only occasional, and
that no one solitary virtue could possibly spring ap, or be cherish-
ed. Piety itself^ could it exist in such a state of things, must (if
such paradoxical language can be admitted,) neceMariiy becoute
exclusively selfish, and indeed, it could find no refuse, ex' e^ t in
abstUHe sedusiott, in the dens and caves of the earth.

ir . I (Ei.-* ':»>«' .' im

yu !.•-:' 'iis ' ?;jl«tj«|i': I'd'

. * ^.^•^. > r**^**

►: — -■■ - y >^ /y.

46 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND (^VEBEC;

law of God and nature, they condemn, while thej
are dependant upon it, both for their own existence
as individuals, and for the continuance of their
unnatural community ; however commendable
they may be for their industrious, moral and hu-
mane deportment, and for their active benevo*
lence; (for which they are certainly highly meri-
torious ;) the principle of their association is, in
my opinion, deserving of severe reprobation. But
happily, their example is very little in danger of
general imitation ; mankind will not, generally,
be persuaded to go on a crusade, or to suffer
martyrdom, in the cause of celibacy, and I believe
it will be long ere the world, is all reformed, by be-
coming a generation of Shakers.

<i» t .t

NEW-LEBANON MINERAL SPRING.

This is a very remarkable fountain. Unlike most
mineral waters, it issues from a high hill; the wa-
ter boils up in a space of ten feet wide, by three
and a half deep ; it is perfectly pellucid, so that a
pin^s head might be seen on the bottom of the spring ;
gas in abundance, issues from among the pebbles,
and sand, and keeps the water in constant and pleas-
ing agitation ; the fountain is very copious, more so
by far than any spring 1 have seen, except the
springs nt Bath, in England ; the water discharged
amounts to eighteen barrels in a minute, and not
only supplies the baths very copiously, simply by

I M

mwmMmm

rEBEC;

rOUE BETWEEN HARTFORD AND auEBEC. 47

while thej
n existence
ce of their
mmendable
»ral and hu-
ve benevo-
ighly meri-
aition is, in
ation. But
n danger of

generally,
r to suffer
id I believe
Died, by be-

Jnlike most
II; the wa-
2, by three
so that a
jthe spring ;
e pebbles,
and pleas-
is, more so
xcept the
ischai^ed
, and not
imply by

Funning down hill to them, but, in the same man-
ner it feeds several mills, and turns the water
wheels with sufficient power. Owing to its high
temperature, it does not congeal in winter, which
gives it a great advantage for moving machinery.
The quantity of water is constant, and varies not
perceptibly in any season— so is its temperature
which is 73° of Fahrenheit. This temperature,
io near the summer heat, makes it a truly ther-
mal water, and causes a copious cloud of con-
densed vapour to hang over the fountain, when-
ever the air is cold. There is no film to be seen
upon the water, it apparently deposits nothing
by standing, but in the course of time, there
collects in its channel, an earthy or stony de*
posit, which eventually becomes copious and hard.

This deposit is rapidly made in the tea kettles,
yrhicb are speedily incrusted, and their throats
choaked by it ; it is of a white colour, and its ori-
gin can scarcely be a subject of wonder, since the
fountain issues from a hill of lime stone.

The water is perfectly tasteless and inodorous —
very soft — does not curdle soap — is used for all cu-
linary and domestic purposes — is acceptable to ani-
mals, ivhich drink at the stream that flows in a riv-
ulet down the hill, and apparently, differs little from
very pure mountain water, except by its remarkable
temperature ; that of the contiguous springs in the

same hill is as low as that of any mountain springs
— about 60°.

i I

48 TOUR BBTWKE;N HARTFORD AND QUEBEC.

It is found to be very useful in salt rheums and
various other cutaneous affections — in some trouble*
some interna] obstructions, &c. It augments the
appetite, and sometimes acts as a cathartic. The;
bath, if used, without previously guarding the stom-
ach, by a draught of water, sometimes produces
nausea. , ; .

As to the chemical constitution of this water,
Professor Griscom, (in 1810) from the application
of tests, but without attemnting a regular analysis,
drew certain conclusions, which are stated in
Bruce's Journal V. 1, pa. 158. :r»'f:.

Dr. William Meade,* from a regular process of
analysis infers, that the Lebanon Spring contains;
in two quarts of the water —

Muriat of Lime, . - • 1 grain.
MuriatofSoda, - - 13-4'

' Sulphat of Lime, - - - 11-2
Carbonat of Lime, - • 3-4 ^li ■

Total, - - 5

The eriform fluids in two quarts of water, he
slates thus:— ^.

• See the appendix to Dr. Meade's Experimental Inquiry into
the Chemical Properties and Medicinal Qualities of the Ballston
and Saratoga Waters.

\ ^

EBEC.

aeums and
le trouble-
;ment8 the
rtic. The
; the stom*
produces

bis water,

ipplication

r analysis,

stated in

process of
I contains;

] grain.
1 3-4 i
1 1-2

3-4

water, he

uquiry into

TOUB BETWEEN HARTFOKO AND QUEBEC 49

Azotic gas, (or nitrogen,) 13 cubic inches.
Atmospheric air, - - 8 do. do.

Dr. Meade remarks that the Lebanon water ig
M purer than most natural waters, and purer than the
contiguous springs, which flow from the same hill.
Its temperature appears therefore to be the only pe-
culiarity to which any medical virtues can be attach-
ed. It is beyond a doubt, that tepid waters, not
stronger in mineral ingredients than the Lebanon
I water, do produce salutary effects, as at Bristol and
Buxton in £ngland. The Buxton water is very
similar to that at Lebanon ; it is very copious and a
little warmer. Being there some years since, 1 was
forcibly struck with the abundance and purity of the
water and with the fine atmosphere and features of
the country. As to picturesque scenery, it is how-
ever inf«jrior to New-Lebanon, and it is probable
that there is not a mineral spring in the world, sur-
rounded by finer Landscapes than this.

Not expecting, when I left home, to visit any
mineral spring, I had to regret that I had no rea-
gents or instruments of analysis with me. I brought
only instruments necessary for mineralogical and
geological observations.

The gas which issues from the spring, is so copi-
ous, that I could easily collect it in the usual man-

I ill

oO TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND (QUEBEC.

> ^

1 ^'

ner, in bottles filled with the water of the fountain,
and inverted in it, with funnels in their mouths.

I ascertained that the gas readily extinguishes a
candle— smoke, mingled with it, descenls to the bot-
tom of the vessel, and docs not rest upon it, as in car-
bonic acid ; the gas does not readily run from the
mouth of an inverted bottle, on to a burning can-
dle, but if the candle be held close to the mouth of
the bottle, it is extinguished as the gas passes out.
f am therefore of opinion with Dr Meade, that the
gas is azot. Indeed, as he justly rem&rks, the fact
that the water is not acidulous or sparkling, although
the gas that rises through it is very abundant ; that
it does not trouble lime water, and is not at all ab-
sorbed by it, and that it does not redden litmus pa-
per, sufficiently proves that the gas contains no car-
bonic acid.*

Azot probably imparts no virtues to mineral wa-
ters as it is insoluble in water. Still it is found in

* The proprietor of the spring, rurnished me with a quantity
of the solid matter, depos:ted by boiling the water in tea kettles.
I find that it dissolves in nitric acid with great rapidity, and with
a very active effervescence, leaving only a small residuum. The
saturated solution is intensely bitter — gives a dense precipi-
tate with fluHt of ammonia, and with sulphuric acid becomes
r^olid, so that tht* glass was inverted without dropping a particle.
This residuum from the evaporation of the water in the tea ket-
tles, IS tasteles — insoluble in water, and remains unaltered, even
iu a damp air. All these facts show it to be principally carbonat
uf lime : tiie muriatsi which Dr. Meade found, woald of course be
Femoved by the boiling water. — May, 1820.

.^sTjSS-

UEHCC.

e fountain,
)uths.
Inguishes a
to the bot-
t, as in car-

from the
irning can-
s mouth of
passes out.
le, that the
^s, the fact
^, ahhough
dant ; that
i at all ab-

litmus pa-
ins no car-

ineral wa-
found in

a quantity
tea kettles.

ty, anJ with
uum. The

nse precipi-

ciil becumet

a particle.

the tci kcl-

tered, eveu

ly carbonat

of course bf

TOU& BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC, 51

many, especially of the warm springs. Bath water,
which boils up with great agiation, owes this move-
ment in part to azot, but perhaps more to the aque-
ous vapour, for the water is at the temperature of
116*^ of Fah. when it first emerges, and is probably
much hotter below.

We know that this spring has flowf d thus hot,
more than two thousand years ; what is the cause f
There are no relics of volcanoes here, nor other
marks of subterranean heat, except those afforded
by the water itself. \

SCENERY OF NEW LEBANON.

Had this remarkable place been situated in Eu-
rope, tourists would have pronounced its panegyric,
and poets would have made it famous, as Windsor
or Richmond Hill, or as the little Isle in Loch Ka-
trin.

Few places have fallen within my observation,
which combine both the grand and the beautiful, in
a hiijhcr dejjree, than the basin of New Lebanon.
Embosomed in mountains, (at this time capped with
dark clouds, which, with their lofty and apparently
impassable barriers, seem to shut it out from the rest
of the world) — verdant and beautful inits slopes,and
in the plain by which they are tcrmitiated, and ex-
hibiting a villati;e, with a handsome church and stee-
ple in the bottom of the bai«in, it powerfully brought

}

.)i>

52 TOUR BETWHEN HARTFORD AWD QUEBEC.

to my recollection, the valley of Castleton, in the
Peak of Derbyshire. Between the two, there is
certainly a striking resemblance, but with some
points of disparity.

The Derbyshire mountains are more lofty, and
of course more grand — those of New-Lebanon,
while they are cultivated, in some places to their
summits, are also extensively crowned with forests,
while the Derbyshire mountains are naked as a hil-
lock, shorn by the scvthe. The New-Lebanon scen-
ery resembles also, that in the vicinity of the cele-
brated springs of Bath, in England.

At New-Lebanon, the principal lodging-house is
situated on the slope of one of the high hills. The
view from the gallery, in the front of this house ie
very fine, and much resembles that from the Cres-
cent at Bath ; from the latter, you see a beautiful
amphitheatre of hills, highly cultivated and ver-
dant, and possessing more wood than is common in
England, but the view at Bath, although perhaps
more beautiful, from cultivation, is less extensive,
and less magnificent and grand, than that at New-
Lebanon.

On the side of the New-Lebanon basin, opposite
to the spring, at the distance of two miles and an
half, upon the declivity of the mountain, and near
its base, is the Shakers^ village, which, with its
green fields and neat houses, is a pleasing object, in
the outline of the picture. Nearer still, (as 1 have
already remarked.) and in the very bottom of the

EBEC.

reuU BETWEEN HARTFORD ANB QUEBEC. ^3

ton, in the
>, there ie
with some

lofty, and
-Lebanon,
2s to their
ith forests,
id as a hil-
mon scen-
r the cele-

5-house is
lis. The
s house is
the Cres-

beautiful
and ver-
)mrnon in

perhaps
ixtensive,

at New-
opposite
s and an
and near

with its
>bjec(, in
IS I have
1 of the

basin, is the handsome village of New-Lebanon,
composed of neat white houses, and a church, with
a spire ; and all around, are the grand slopes of
mountains, which limit the view on every side, and
present fields, woods and rocks, and bold ridges,
upon which the clouds oAen repose.

Bristol spring, in England, is surrounded by the
fme scenery of the Avon, and the romantic rock of
St. Vincert \ oends over it, with a good degree of
grandeur; uut even this scene is very limited, com-
pared with that of New-Lebanon, and when at the
Bristol spring, the observer is in a deep channel, by
the side of the river, and shut out completely from
all prospect. From the top o( St. Vincent's rock,
and from every part of Clifford, and the other emi-
nences around Bristol, and indeed from the upper
street of the town itself, there are the finest views.
The famous springs at Ballston and Saratoga have
much fewer advantages of scenery, and their princi-
pal attractions are those presented by the medicinal
powers of the waters, by good cheer, and by genteel
company ; the first of these advantages is very great,
and those springs are without doubt, one ofthcgreat-
est natural bounties of heaven to this country. The
other two may be enjoyed at New-Lebanon, where
we found pleasant company, and a house extreme-
ly comfortable, in every thing except the beds,
which were very hard.*

I, ♦ f im told Ihcy are now very wood. 18'21

>t.r^\

54 TOVn BETWBSN BARTFORD AND QUEBSC.

For those who wish to enjoy fine rural scenery,
bold, picturesque and beautiful, with the best moun-
tain air, and such advantages to health, as this co-
pious fountain presents, nothing can be better in its
kind than New-Lebanon. Its waters must be ad-
mirable for bathing.

New-Lebanon spdng is twelve miles from Lenox,
and seventy miles from Hartford.

It is situated just within the limits of the state
«f New-York, three or four miles from the state of
Massachusetts, and thirty or more from Connecti-
cut. A stone similar to a mile^stone, denoting the
boundary line between the states of Massachusetts
and New- York, stands on the slope of the mountain,
as we descend towards the village of the Shakers.

In the valley of New-Lebanon there is a family
vault, which struck us on entering the village. It
if a neat cemetery, covered by a high mound ; a
marble table lies on the top, and (what constitutes
its singularity,) it has a flag staff, similar to those in
forts ; we supposed it must be a mausoleum for
fome military man, but we were informed that it
was the vault of a private family, of the name of
Hand, and that whenever any member of the fami-
ly dies, a black flag is hoisted on the flag-stafl*.

RIDE TO ALBANY.

The morning after our arrival at the New-Leba-
non spring, the equinoctial storm, which had never

■0

;

TOUft BETWEEN HARTFORD AN^ QUEBEC. Sit

''it

■1

deserted us, poured, literally, floods of rain ; they
ran in torrents down the steep hills of New-Leba-
non, while the black clouds and the clusters of va-
por hung over the tops and around the sides of the
mountains, or, driven by the gusts of wind, swept
with gloomy grandeur, along the frowning ridges.
It appeared as if we were imprisoned for the day,
and we solaced ourselves with the pleasant society
of the small but intelligent party which we found
at the Springs.

About ten oVlock, the rain so far ceased that we
resumed, and afterwards continued our ride, al-
though rain and sun-shine, and alternate currents of
hot and cold air, made it a day of singular fluctua-
tion.

Stephen -Town, Nassau and Schodack, through
which we passed, presented nothing particularly in-
teresting. At Greenbush, we observed the eitea-
sive barracks, erected during the late war, for the
accommodation of the United States* troops ; being
white, and standing upon elevated grouud they make
a pleasing appearance-^aside from the pensive sen-
sations, associated with all military spectacles. Near
the river, we examined an abandoned pit, dug for
ooal, and a sulphureous mineral water ; the latter has
been considerably spoken of, but, on the present oc-
casion, was weak both in taste and smell, owing, 1
suppose, to the recent heavy rains, and to its being
left without any shelter to protect it from the weath-
er. Some winters since, a bottle of it which had

\ ■

1; m

SG TOUR BET WEEK HAllTPOlU) AN* QVBBE(J.

1 f

been brought to me, happened to freeze, and broke,
when the offensive hepatic gas filled the house to
Hie no small annoyance of the family. •

From the barracks, we descended a considerable
hill, before we reached the bank of the river ; a
horseboat conveyed us over the Hudson, and before
night, we were safely landed at a very comfortable
house in the city of Albany. ''^^ " > '• j

H !■

J 4 in i. .: ,

ij- i.

•*y? .»•!'

.„-i,\

1^)

GEOLOGY.

At New-Lebanon, a few miles east of the springs,
the geology of the country undergoes a great change,
and the whole tract, thence to Albany, is, without
doiibt, a tranisition country. Bluish gray transition
lime stone, in immense strata, traversed by white
veins of calcareous spar, is found at New-Lebanon.
Its texture is nearly compact, its structure slaty, and
its inclination to the horizon considerable. Grau-
wackd makes its appearance, about seven miles on
the road towards Albany, and continues to be abun^
dant at intervals. Common transition slate and a
red slaty rock of a very fine, and indeed almost im-
perceptible grain, apparently between a sand stone
and a slate are abundant. The strata on the road
are in many places, much decomposed. The slate
thrown out of the pit at Greenbush, where the exca-
vation was made for cocil, is evidently transition
ftiw n!^'fi^t»■^, fa -.'Umi* « .^.wv.^ -^i\"r\vfi ';mo{*! .iv

rOUR BETWEEN HARTPOllD ANlJ ^tEBfiC. 5t

;jlate, having often a tortuous appearance and a glis-
tening surface, as if covered with a varnish or with
plumbago. It is just such slate as is found in con-
nexion with the anthracite of Rhode-Island. It ap-
pears therefore, that good bituminous coal is not f6
be expected at Greenbush ; the incombustible coal,
the anthracite, may indeed be found, but it wOukI
be much less valuable than the other kind. « ' *^ r>'

I have several times had occasion to reraafk, thdt
the picturesque features of a country depend very
much on its geology. This remark is particularly
verified by the country just spoken of. After leav-
ing New-Lebanon, we soon lose that bold scenery
which I have described, and which often so emin-
ently characterises primitive countries. The tran-
sition lime-stone, f am aware, is occasionally Alpine
in its appearance, as in the Peak of Derbyshire, and
it is so in the New-Lebanon basin.

But, the transition and slaty formation, which im^
mediately succeeds, presents hills of moderate ele-
vation, without ridges, peaks, defiles or deep hol-
lows, and bounded by gentle outlines and large
curves. It would be too much to say, thai this is
the invariable character of transition countries, but
compared with the primitive in the immediate vi-
cinity, I believe they usually possess this appearance.

VVe must not, however, insist with too much rigor

upon the application of the systematic arrangements

of other countries to this. Many parts of our primi-

,(* r

,■'1
V

I-

"> .

-4.

J0'

I I

'■■.)

58 TOUR BETWEEN BAHTFORD AND llUEBEIi;.

tive formations, occupy a low level, and some of
our primitive slaty rocks are not highly inclined in
relation to the horizon.

The ridges of greenstone trap at Greenfield, in
Massachusetts, are higher than the granite ofNorth-
iield and Montague, in the same vicinity, and atLev-
erett, the granite is low, and the puddingstone rises
to the heighth of five or six hundred feet, and far
above the granite. The Sugar-Loaf Mountain, in
the southern part of Deerfield, is composed of con-
glomerate, and is five hundred feet high above the
contiguous plain. Mount Toby, on the opposite
side of the river in Sunderland, is between eight and
nine hundred feet high, and these hills are higher
than the greenstone, granite and other rocks in that
region.*

ALBANY.

Albany contains from ten to twelve thousand in-
habitants,f and is the secondcity in the state (we
might almost say empire,) of New- York. Its lati-
tude is 42* 38' N. ; it is one hundred and sixty miles
from New- York, and one hundred sixty-four from

* See Mr. Hitchcock's account of Deerfield, &c.— American
Journal of Science, &c.— Vol. L

1 12,63© in 1820.— Ji#or«e'ff Giograpfn,.

\ u

,, u

— American

SOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 59

Boston. It rises, for the most part, rapidly from
the river, and exhibits a very handsome appearance
from the Greenbiish side. The greater part of the
population, however, is on the flat ground, immedi-
ately contiguous to the river, where the Dutch, who
founded the town, first commenced building, agree-
ably to their established habits in HoUana. In-
stances are innumerable, where people continue
from habit, what was at first begun from necessity,
and this se<?ms to have been the fact in the present
case. The town extends about two miles north
and south, on the river, and in the widest part,
nearly one mile east and west. It is perfectly com-
pact — closely built, and as nr as it extends, has the
appearance of a great cit) . 1 1 has numerous streets,
lanes, and alleys., und in all of thorn, there is the
same closeness o' buUding, and the same city-like
appearance.

The principal streets, and especially Market,
State and Pearl streets, are spacious, and the hous-
es in general, are handsome and commodious ; ma-
ny are large, and a few are splendid. State-street
is very wide, and rises rapidly from the river, up a
considerably steep hill. The Capitol stands at the
head of h This is a large and handsome buildkig
of stone,^ furnished with good rooms for the govern-

* i could uot but regret that the tessellated marble pavement of
line vestibule, otherwise very handsome, was shamefully dirtied
by tobacco spittle : such a thing would not be suffered in Europe.
It ia, however, unfortunately, only a sample of the too ^enentl

-.j^'-t^d

\ 1

60 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND qVEBEC .

mieDt and courts of law; in the decorations and fur-
niture of some of these apartments, there is a good
degree of elegance, and even some splendor. —
There is also a State Library, just begi^n ; it does
not yet contain one thousand volumes, but they are
well selected, and a fund of five hundred dollars
per annum is provided for its increase, besides three
thousand dollars granted by the legislature to com-
mence the collection.

The view from the Balcony of the Capitol is
rich and magnificent : the mountains of Vermont
and of the Catskill are the most distant objects, and
the banks of the river are very beautiful, on ac-
count of the fine verdure and cultivation, and of
the numerous pretty eminences, which bound its
meadows.

. The Academy of Albany, situated on the Capi-
tol Hill, is a noble building of Jersey free ctone.

Although it has (as stated to me by Dr. B )

cost ninety thousand dollars, only the lower rooms
are finished. School are, however, maintained, in
it, for nearly two hundred children, and it is pros-
perous, under the able direction of Dr. T. R. Beck,
and several assistant teachers.

This Institution was erected at the expence of
the city of Albany, aitd is honourable to its munifi-
cence, although a plainer building, which, when

treatment of public buildings, nncl places in the United States,
and const iiuiRs no peculiar topic of reproarh« in this iastaauc ;
but it is particularly offensive iu !o fine tt building.

%.i

EBEC.

ns and fur-
» is a good
)lendor. —
i; it does
It they are
ed dollars
ildes three
e to com-

Oapitol is
Vermont
jects, and
If on ac-
n, and of
bound its

ihe Capi-
36 Etone.

.B )

;r rooms
ained, in
is pros-
it Beck,

>ence of
muni6-
)} when

eil Slatos,
iostaooo ;

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 61

completely finished, would have cost much less
money, would probaliiy have been equally useful,
and might have left them, out of their ninety thou-
sand dollars, a handsome fund, in addition to what
they now possess.

There is a large and convenient brick building
for a Lancasteriaii school, but I did not go into it.*

Among the interesting things of Albany is the
seat of the late General Schuyler, situated quite in
the country, at the south end of the town. It is
memorable, principally, from its historical associa-
tions. It was the seat of vast Siospitality and the
resort of the great men of the revolution.

Even Gen. Burgoyne, with his principal officers,
was lodged and entertained there, after his surren-
der, although he had devastated Gen. Schuyler's
beautiful estate at Saratoga, and burned his fine
country seat.

The house of the late Gen. Schuyler, is spacious
and in its appearance venerable ; it has, long since,
passed away from the family and is now possessed
hy a furrier.

At the opposite, or northern extremity of Albany,
and almost equally in the country, is situated the
seat of the patroon. Gen. Stephen Van Rensselaer.
It is well known, that he possesses a vast patrimo-
nial estate of forty miles square, lying in the vicinity
of Albany, which has descended, unbroken, from

• 1 vi?itcd it n^erwaril!. anJ w.-x^ much grntiflod by scoiujr
^cveral hundrecl rhildren receiving instruction in lbi:i building.
1824.

»\

62 TOUR BEtwEii-V HAAtroiin and Quebec.

his early American ancestors. Such a phenome-
non, in a republican country, is very remarkable,
and cannot fail, in spite of our early prejudices, y:-)i
the strong bias of national feelings, to excite a de-
gree of admiration, if not of veneration. We are
still more disposed to indulge these feelings, when
we find the hereditary possession of such wealth,
associated with distinguished excellence, in public
and private life, with the most amiable and unassu-
ming manners, and with a princely, although dis-
criminating liberality.

The house, (which was built by the father of the
present patroon,) is a palace. It stands on the flat
ground, by the river, and looks down Market street,
which here terminates abruptly. The house has in
the rear, nothing but green fields and beautiful rural
scenes. It is imbowered in groves, and shrubbery,
and reminded me powerfully, of some of the fine
villas in Holland, to which, both in situation and
appearance, it bears a strong resemblance.

Among the gentry and professional and literary
men of Alb" /, there are individuals of distinguish-
ed eminence. But, eminent men, of our own time
and country, are rather too near, for much minute-
ness of delineation. Were it not for the restraint
thus imposed by delicacy, it would be a task, by no
means ungrateful, to (]raw likenesses from the life,
and to exhibit the combined efi^ect of talent, learn-
ing, and social virtues. An American in Europe,
is free from this embarrassment, and should he
here discover a mind of amazing vigor and activi-

EBEC.

phenome-
emarkable,
Jdices, :v)i
!j^cite a ue-
We are
ings, when
ch wealth,

in public
id unassu-
lough dis-

lier of the
on ihe flat
ket street,
>use has in
JtifuJ rural
brubber},
i' the fine
ation and

J literary
slinguish-
own time
minute-
restraint
sk, by no
the life,
It, learn-
Europe,
ioutd he
d activi-

iOUK BETWEEN HARTFOKO AND QUEBEC. 63

t,y — always glowing — always on the wing — replete
with various and extensive knowledge, flowing out
in the most rapid, ardent, and impressive eloquence,
while simplicity and familiarity of manners were as-
sociated with a high minded integrity, and indepen-
dence, he would fearlessly pronounce the possessor
of such qualities an original and captivating man.

Albany is the great thoroughfare and resort of
the vast western regions of the State ; its streets arc
very bustling ; it is said that two thousand waggons
sometimes pass up and down State street in a day ;
it must hereafter become a great inland city.

It stands near the head of sloop navigation and
of tide water : sloops of eighty tons come up to the
town, besides the steam-boats of vastly greater ton-
nage, but of a moderate draught of water.

In addition to the public buildings that have been
-already mentioned, Albany has a City Hall, a Jail,
an Aims-House, a State Arsenal, two Market hous-
es, four banks, a museum, eleven houses of public
worship, and a public Library, containing about four
(housand volumes.*

The private library of Chancellor Kent, does
honour t r 'm and to learning. It contains between
two and three thousand volumes of choice books*
The collection on jurisprudence, embraces not only
(lie F.nglish, but the civil and French law. It con-
tains Lafin, Greek, English and French Classics—
bt lies letters — history — biography — travels, — and
books in most hr^^nches of human learning. The

•Worcester's Gazeftrer.

f )i

64 TOUR BETWEEN IIARTFOHD ANt> qUBREC.

If.

^ 1-

> , I

ll- 1 ll

numerous manuscript remarks and annotations, oa
the blank leaves and margins of the books, evince
that they are not a mere pageant, and at a future
day will form some of the most interesting of our
literary relics.

The situation of Albany is salubrious, and emi-
nently happy, in relation to the surrounding coun-
try, which is populous and fertile. No one can
estimate the importance of the regions west, which,
in their pr gressive increase, and aided by the stu-
pendous canal,* now in progress, must pour a great
part of their treasures through this channel.

Albany has been memorable in American histo-
ry. It was the rendezvous, and the point of de-
parture, for most of those armies, which, whether
sent by the mother country, or, raised by the colo-
nies themselves, for the conquest of the Gallo-
American dominions, and of the savages, so often,
during the middle periods of the last century, exci-
ted, and more than once disappointed the hopes of
the empire. It was scarcely less conspicuous in the
same manner, during the war of the revolution, and
during the late war with Great Britain. Few places,
en this side of the Atlantic, have seen more of mar-
tial array, or heard more frequently the dreadful
" note of preparation.'' Still, (except perhaps in
some of the early contests, with the Aborigines) it
has never seen an enemy ; a hostile army has
never encamped before it; nor have its women and

*" AlreRcly united to the waters of the HudtOD, aad beginning
to verify tbe remark io the text. 1824.

TOUK BETWKEN HABTFORD AND QUEBEC. 66

children ever seen " the smoke of an enemy's
camp.'* .

More than once, however, has a foreign enemy,
after fixing his destination for Albany, been either
arrested, and turned back in his career, or visited
the desired spot in captivity and disgrace.

The French invasions from Canada never came
nearer than Schenectady.* In 1777, the porten-
tous advances of the British armies from Quebec,
and of the British fleets and armies, from Nevir-
York, threatening a junction at Albany, and filling
the new States with alarm, and the Cabinet of St.
James with premature exultation, met a most sig-
nal discomfiture.

Albany was the seat of the great convention, held
in 1754, for the purpose of bringing about a con-
federation of the Colonies, for their mutual defence
and general benefit, and it has been signalized, by
not a few other meetings, for momentous public
purposes. • '

We passed a part of three days in Albany, and
were not without strong inducements to protract our
stay. The public houses are excellent, affording
every accommodation and comfort, with that quiet
and retirement, and that prompt civility, so com-
monly found in English Inns, and which, until with-

h
1

* In 1690, Schenectady was sudJenly nssaultecl, in the night,
by the French nnil Indians, and its misernblB inhabitwnts rither
iHU- acred, or dra^jjcd, in the deptli of winter, iqto wi)tivity.

66 TOUR BETWEEN BARTPORD AND qVEBECr.

in a few years, were so rare in those of America.
Polished and enlightened society, and the courts*
sies of hospitality held out still stronger attractions,
but our allotments of time did not permit us to re-
main any longer, and we hastened to set our faces
towards the British dominions.

BANKS OF THE HUDSON, ABOVE ALBANY.

We determined to go by Whitehall, as we wish-
ed to avail ourselves, of the rapid and comfortable
conveyance, to the confines of Canada, now estab-
lished on Lake Champlain. Being unwilling how-
ever to pass rapidly by, or entirely to avoid, all
the interesting objects on the road, we adopted such
an arrangement, as might permit us to take the
banks of the Hudson and Lake George in our
route. Indeed, from Albany, upon the course pro-
posed, every part of our way was to be over classic-
al ground. History sheds a deeper interest over
no portion of the North American States. He who
venerates the virtues and the valour, and commis-
serates the sufferings of our fathers, and he, who
views, with gratitude and reverence, the deliveran-
ces which heaven has wrought for this land, will
tread with awe, on every foot of ground btjtwceo
Albany and the northern lakes*

EC.

TOUR BETWEEN MARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 6-7

.menca.
court^-
'actions,
IS to re-
»ur faces

NY.

ve wish-
ifortable
w estab-

ing how-

^oidy alt

ted such

ake the

in our

irse pro-

classic"

st over

He who

ommis"

le, who

iveran-

id, will

etwceo

We were obliged, on this occasion, to deny our-
selves a visit to Sch<?nHCtady, and its rising literary
institution, and to the waters of Ballston and Sara-
toga. Leaving them therefore to the left, we pro-
ceeded along the banks of the Hudson, principally
on the western shore.

This is a charming ride. The road is very good,
and absolutely without a hill ; the river often placid
and smooth, but sometimes disturbed by a rocky
bottom, is almost constantly in sight, and flows
through beautiful meadows, which are commonly
bouaJe 1, at small distances from the Hudson, by
verdant hills, of moderate height, and gentle de-
clivity. The strata of rods are, almost invariably,
the transition slate. They present scarcely any
variety. The direction of the strata is so nearly
that of the river, that they form but an inconsidera-
ble angle with it ; they often protrude their edges
into view, because they have a very high inclination
to the horizon, apparently about 43°,* or perhaps
in some instances, a few degrees less. The rock is
easily broken up, and reduced to small fragments ;
and therefore forms an excellent material for the
roads. The banks of the river frequently present a
natural barrier, formed by the same kind of rock.
Nearly six miles from Albany, we crossed the river
into Troy.

* I had no opportunitjle judge, txceplby the eya, us we rode

l.i

ll ?

I I

I
f

(

68 TdtJft BETWEEN ItARTtOIlD ANb QUEBEC

(■'*»■

SINGULAR HORSE FERRY-BOAT. *

The ferry-boat is of a most singular construction.^
A platform covers a wide flat boat. Underneath
the platform, there is a large horizontal solid wheel,
which extends to the sides of the boat ; and there
the platform, or deck, is cut through, and removed,
so as to afford suflicient room for two horses to
stand on the flat surface of the wheel, one horse on
each side, and parallel to the gunwale of the boat.
The horses are harnessed, in the usual manner for
teams — the whiffle trees being attached to stout iron
bars, fixed horizontally, at a proper height, in the
posts, which are a part of the permanent structure of
the boat. The horses look in opposite directions,
one to the bow, and the other to the stern ; their feet
take hold of channels, or grooves, cut in the wheels,
in the direction of radii; they press forward, and, al-
though they advance not, any more than a squirrel,
in a revolving cage, or than a spit dog at his work,
their feet cause the horizontal wheel to revolve, in
a direction opposite lothatoftheirownapparentmo-
tion ; this, by a connexion of cogs, moves two verti-
cal wheels, one on each wing of the boat, and these,
being constructed like the paddle wheels of steam-
boats, produce the same effect, and propel the boat
forward. The horses are covered by a roof, fur-
nished with curtains, to protect them in bad weath-
er ; and do not appear to labour harder than com-
mon draft horses, with a heavy load, *

* They have now become common, and arc worked by four
horsos where the boat is large. 1824.

y four

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC* 69

The inventor of this boat, is Mr. Lanodon, of
Whitehall, and it claims the important advantages of
simplicity, cheapness, and effect. At 6rst vieWf
the labour appears like a hardship upon the horses,
but probably this is an illusion, as it seems veryim*
material to their comfort, whetherthey advance with
their load, or cause the basis, on which they labour,
to recede.

TROY, LANSINGBURGH, AND WATERFORD.

Troy, six miles north of Albany, is a beautiful
city, handsomely built, and regularly laid out; its
appearance is very neat ; it stands principally on
the flat ground, by the Hudson — contains five thou-
sand inhabitants ^-a court-house,jail,market-house|
and two banks, a public library, a Lancasteriaa
school, and five places of public worship. It has
an intelligent and polished population, and a large
share of wealth. A numoer of its gentlemen have
discovered their attachment to science, by the in-
stitution of a Lyceum of Natural History, which,
fostered by the activity, zeal, and intelligence of
ts members, and of its lecturer, Mr. Eaton, promi-
ses to be a public benefit, and to elevate the char-
acter of the p!a :c.

Near it, on the opposite side of the river, are ex-
tensive and beautiful barracks, belonging to the

♦ 5264 in t820.

^ ■

.t'

•'i-'"

70 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND dUEBEa

}

United States, with a large park of artillery. Below
the town, are fine mill seats, on which are al-
ready established, several important manufactures,
for which kind of employments, Troy appears very
favourably situated. Small sloops come up to this
town, which, for size, and importance, is the third,
or fourth in the state.

We had to regret that the arrangements of our
journey did not permit us to pass as much time in
Troy, as, under other circumstances, would have
been both useful and agreeable.

Lansingburgh, through which we passed, three
miles north of Troy, is inferior to it in the number
and quality of its buildings. Its population is not
far from two thousand. It is a large and handsome
settlement, situated, principally, on one street, and
bas an academy, a bank, and four* places of public
worship. Sloops come up to this place, and it en-
joys a considerable trade.

It was formerly more flourishing than at present.
Troy has, for a good many years, gained the pre-
eminence, and seems likely to retain it.

Waterford is a pretty village, of one thousand in-
habitants, and stands on the western bank of the
Hudson, at its confluence with the Mohawk, where a
numberof islands, producing the appearance of seve-
ral mouths, give diversity to a very beautiful scene.
It is ten miles north of Albany. From the Lansing-
burgh side, we crossed into it, over a commodi-

♦Worcester's Gaz«tteer.

£'-^

TiTiMili

Below
are al-
ictures,
rs very
) to this
e third,

of our
time in
Id have

I, three
number
n is not
ndsome
set, and
f public
d it en-
resent.
|he pre-

iand in-
of the
rhere a
>fseve-
scene.
msing-
imodi-

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 71

ous bridge. The name of this place, was formerly
Half-Moon point. It is memorable as having been
the most southern point, to which the American
army, under General Schuyler, retreated, before
the then victorious General Burgoyne. In the con-
tiguous islands, in the month of the Mohawk, they
took their stand, and were prepa/jg to form a
camp, so strong, that their enemy would not be able
to force it. This was in August, 1 777. On the 1 9tK
of that month, General Schuyler was up erseded in
command by General Gates. Colonel Morgan's re-
giment of riflemen, dispatched from the main army
by General Washington, arrived on the 23d ; and
on the 8th of September, the army again turned
northward, and marched to Stillwater, to face Gene-
ral Burgoyne. From this place, therefore, we are to
pass over the most interesting scenes of that cam-
paign.

GENERAL BURGOYNE' S EXPEDITION.

Of that momentous period, I am not now about
to re-write the history, which may be found, per-
haps, sufficiently detailed, in various authors. * But,
in travelling over ground, which has been the scene

• Ramsay's History of the American Revolution, Gordon's His-
tory, Marshall's Life of Washington, Wilkinson's Memoirs, An-
nual Register, Burgoyne's State of the Expedition from Cana-
da, fee. &c.

'¥.

73 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC;

of men »' * vHI** actions, it is both iustructive and in-
terestini^, lO advert concisely, to some of the most
prominent eventiii.

In May, 1775, Ticonderoga, and Crown Point,
and the small marine force on the lake, had been
taken by surprise, by the Americans, led by Colonels
Allen and Arnold, and thus, the command of the
lakes George and Champlain, had been acquired
without bloodshed, and with comparatively little
effort.

, This opened the way for the invasion of Canada,
which was undertaken in form, in the summer of
1775, it being supposed that the Canadians were
disaffected to the British government, and needed
nothing but the appearance of an American army,
to induce a general revolt.

Accordingly, in September, 1775, General Scaj-
ler, with General Montgomery, proceeded to the
Sorel river, and took post at the Isle-aux-Noix, eight
or nine miles above St. Johns, and eleven below
the egress of the river from Lake Champlain.

General Schuyler falling sick, the command devol-
?ed on General Montgomery, who, in the course of
a few weeks, reduced the forts of St. Johns and
Chambly, on the river Sorel, and captured Mont-
real and the towns of Sorel and the Trois Revie-
res, on the St. Lawrence. Early in December, he
formed a junction with General Arnold, who, in No-
vember, arrived at Point Levi, opposite to Quebec,
with the little army which he commanded, (having
traversed the hideous wilderness between the Ken-

Be:

and in-
he most

[) Point,
ad been
Dolonels
1 of the
icquired
\y little

Canada,
nmer of
ins were
I needed
n army,

1 Scay-
to the
ix, eight
\ below
in.

d devol-
ourse of
ins and
H Mont-
Revie-
iber, he
, in No-
^uebec,
(having
16 Ken-

TOUB BETWEEN HARTFORD AMD <IT7EBEC. 73

nebec and St. Lawrence rivers,) and the two ar-
mies united, scarcely equalling one thousand men,
proceeded, in due form, to invest Quebec.

The siege, from the want of heavy cannon, prov-
ing ineffectual, they made a desperate assault, on
the last day of December. This terminated in the
death of Montgomery, and the defeat of the enter-
prise; the army, however, kept its ground, in the
vicinity of Quebec, till spring, and maintained, part-
ly a siege and partly a blockade of the place.

On the return of spring, and the arrival of British
reinforcements, the American army gradually retir-
ed up the St. Lawrence ; and, although largely re-
inforced, from time to time, till it eventually amount-
ed to eight thousand men, it was not able to retain
possession of the country ; but, by degrees, after
various conflicts, more or less important, relinquish-
ed all that had been gained, by so much effort and
blood.

In June, 1776, the evacuation of Canada was
complete, and the great objects, originally in view,
of uniting Canada to the states, and of preventing
invasion from that quarter, were entirely defeated.
Still, the Americans held the command of the lakes,
and Sir Guy Carleton, who commanded in Canada,
made such astonishing efforts to prepare a navy,
that, by the autumn of 177C, he had a force much
superior to that of the Americans.

A desperate conflict ensued, in October of the
same year ; and General Arnold, who commanded

7»

i 1

',4

'- 1

l/i /I I

i •

I ,»

74 TOUR BETWEEN HAKirORD AND QUEBEC.

the American flotilla, although he did every thing,
which valour could accomplish, witnessed the com-
plete destruction of this little navy.

Thus the principal obstacles, that prevented the
invasion of the new States, from Canada, were re-
moved, and the tide of war, with a powerful reliux,
was soon to roll back from the North.

The troops, destined for the intended invasion,
were already in Canada, and General Burgoyne, their
future commander, returned to England in the au-
tumn of 1776, to digest the plan of the intended
campaign. By an exertion of arbitrary authority,
be was made to supersede General SirGuy Carleton,
who had commanded with much ability, during the
preceding campaign, and whose only fault in the
view of the English ministry, was probably, his
humanity and clemency to the Americans ; his mag-
nanimity, however, led him still to do every thing in
his power to forward the service In the spring of
1777, General Burgoyne returned to Canada, took

the command, and the armament proceeded on its
destination.

It was led by accomplished and experienced offi-
cers; — it was furnished with a most formidable train
of brass artillery, and with all the apparatus, stores,
and equipments, which the nature of the service
required, and which the art of man had invented.
Veteran corps of the best troops of Britain and Ger-
many, formed almost the v/hole of this dreaded
army, while Canadians, and American loyalists, fur

i '

•T tiling,
the com-

nted the
were re-
al reliux,

invasion,
me, their
n the au-
intended
luthority,
Carleton,
uring the
It in the
ibly, his
his mag-
' thing in
spring of
ida, took
i\ on its

iced offi-
ible train
3, stores,
service
nvented.
ind Ger-
dreaded
ists, fur

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND (QUEBEC. 75

nished it with rangers, scouts and spies, and a nu-
merous array of savages, with their own dress, and
weapons, and with their own characteristic ferocity,
increased the terrors of its approach. It numbered,
according to common estimation, ten thousand strong,
including every description of force ; an army, which,
considering the theatre of action, was equal to ten
times that number in the ordinary wars of Europe.
It is probable, however, that this force was some-
what overrated, by the Americans, as the regular
troops did not exceed, (according to the statement
of the British officers,) seven thousand men. Un-
molested in its progress, from St. John^s, up the
lake, it landed and invested Ticonderoga, on the
first and second days of July.

This post, the key of the North, had not been at-
tempted by Sir Guy Carleton, after the destruction
of the American flotilla, in the preceding October.
It had, in the mean time, been strengthened by ad-
ditional works, and men, and the commari of it
comr/.ilted to General St. Clair, an officer of the
highest standing. TI:3 country looked to him for a
vigorous defence, and expected that he would stem
the tide of invasion, and iix bound? to its proud bil-
lows. But, that country, little knew the really fee-
ble, and ill provided state of the garrison, and its
utter incompetency, to contend with the formidable
army by which it was now invested. Had it been
even much stronger than it was, its strength would
have been rendered unavailing, by the unexpected

!•

^:-^

76 TOUR BETWF.EN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC.

5* *

occupancy of Sugar Loaf Hill, or Mount Defiance,
hitherto deemed inaccessible, and equally neglect-
ed by all previous commanders, whether French,
British or Americans, and had the latter now
thought proper to possess it, they could not have
spared troops for the purpose. From this completely
commanding, and very contiguous position,^ Gene-
ral Burgoyne was already prepared, to pour down
into the garrison, a certain and deadly fire from his
artillery; while, not an effective shot could be re-
turned.

The Eagle, perched in the covert of the rock,
was poising his wings to dart upon the defence-
less prey, that was crouching beneath him, and
nothing but precipitate flight could save the vic-
tim. Accordingly, on the night of the fifth of Ju-
ly, Ticonderoga was abandoned : the baggage,
stores, hospital, ordnance and moveable provisions
were dispatched to Skeensborough, by water, in the
little American flotilla, while the main body of the
garrison, having crossed the lake to Fort Indepen-
dence, defiled to the left, into Vermont. They
were closely pursued by a detachment of the Brit-
ish, under General Frazer, and of the Germans un-
der General Ueidesel, who, the next day, brought
them to action, and the obstinate and sanguinary,
conflicts at Huhberton, evinced, that although in re-

♦Only one lhou«»nii four hundred yards, from Ticondercjg:*,
and one thousan I in e liunlretl from Mount Ind«pend«acc, onlb«
opposite shore. — (fJeneraf Burgoym.)

EBEC,

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND CilfEBEC. 77

Defiance,
T neglect-
French,
tter now
not have
>mpletely
I,* Gene-
mr down
from his
Id be re-
he rock,
defence-
lim, and
the vic-
h of Ju-

rovisions
;r, in the
} of the
ndepen-
They
le Brit-
lans un-
brought
guinary,
;h in re*

ce, on tbe

treat, they were still very formidable. This little ar-
my, led byGeneral St. Clair, after a circuitous march,
reached the Hudson, at Batten Kill, and soon join-
ed General Schuyler, who. with the main army, was
a few miles above, at Fort Edward. General Bur-
goyne. with a great body of the British troops, pro-
ceeded, in pursuit of his enemy, up the lake, to
Skeensborough, and destroyed the American flotilla,
baggage and stores, while General Philips with most
of the stores of General Burgoyne, went up lake
George, to Fort George, situated at its head. Gen-
eral Schuyler's army continued to retreat, down the
Hudson, to Saratoga and Stillwater, and, at last, to
Van Shaick's island, in the mouth of the Mohawk,
where it took post, on the eighteenth of August.

From Skeensborough, General Burgoyne, witk
extreme difficulty, and after several weeks of severe
labour, and one considerable battle near fort Anne»
cleared the passage to Fort Edward ; for General
Schuyler, in consequence of General Burgoyne's
halting, nearly three weeks, at Skeensborough, had
time to throw very formidable obstructions in his
wr.y. He felled innumerable trees into Wood
Creek, and across the roads by Fort Anne ; he de-
molished bridges, and by every other means in his
power, so impeded his march, that the British army
did not arrive at Fort Edward, on the Hudson, till
the 150th of July. A junction was at length formed
!at this place, between the niiiin body, and the divi*.
sion that went by lakg Goorge.

ill

78 TOUB BETWEEN HARTFOHD AND QUEBEC.

In order to enable General Burgoyne to move
down the Hudson, it was necessary to transport the
stores, boats and ammunition, a distance of sixteen
miles over a very difficult country, from Fort
George to Fort Edward. But still on the fifteenth
of August, there was at Fort Edward, only four
days' provisions in advance.

On the sixteenth, Colonel Baum, who with his
Germans, had been detached by Burgoyne, to seize
a magazine of stores at Benington, in Vermont, and
to countenance the loyalists in that quarter, was to-
tally defeated and slain, by General Stark ; most of
his detachment were either killed or made prison-
ers; and Colonel Breyman, who had been sent to
succour Baum, and who arrived on the same ground,
a few hours after the battle, was also defeated, and
with extreme difficulty, regained the main army
with the greater part of his troops.

In the mean time. Colonel St. Leger, in conse-
quence of an arrangement, made in England, had
proceeded, early in August with an army of British
and Indians, to attack For^ Stanwix, called also Fort
Schuyler, on the Mohawk. This wa*' intended to
operate, as a diversion in favour of Burgoyne ; to
distract the Americans, and in cars of success, to
brinp; down a powerful force, upon their flank.

This pxprdition was attended with some success,
in the (h'feat of Colonel Herkimer, who fell inlo an
ambuscade, while advancing with the militia, of the
vicinity, to relievu the Fort ; he was slain, with ma-

t •

BEC.

to move
sport the
' sixteen
3 m Fort
fifteenth
nly four

kvith his
, to seize
iont, and
, was to-
most of
B prison-
n sent to
ground,
ited, and
in army

conse-
ind, had

British
ISO Fort
nded to
rne ; to
cess, to
k.

iuccess,
inlo an
, of the
ith ina-

TOHR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 79

ny of his party ; but a successful sally from the
Fort — the reported advance of General Arnold, with
a force greatly magnified by the artful repre enta-
tions of some friendly Indians, and the fears and
fickleness of the savages in the British army, eventu-
ally defeated St. Leger's expedition, and caused him
to retreat in extreme confusion and distress.

Thus, General Burgoyne was disappointed of any
collateral aid from St. Leger, and the signal defeat
at Bennington, not only deprived him of any supply
of provisions, fvom that source, but lost him a sixth
part of the regular troops in his army, and revealed
the important secret, that regular troops could be
beaten by militia. These events revived the cour-
age of thi3 Americans, gave them time to rally and
to recruit their armies, and very materially embar-
rassed and retarded the movements of General Bur-
goyne.

To retreat was to abandon the objects of his ex-
pedition, and to disappoint the expectations of his
8;ovenin»ent; to advance, although with increasing
difHcuItios, and dangers, was tl ere fore the only al-
iernative. Accordingly, on the thirteenth and four-
teenth of September, he passed the Hudson river,
on a bridge of boats, not far from Fort Miller,
and proceeded without any material opposition, to
Saratoga and Stillwater, till on the seventeenth,
-lis advanced guard was within four miles of the
American army, now returning northward. On the
eighteenth, the fronts of the two armies wero almost

f ■:

^■\

'.> )

oO TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC «

in contact, and some skirmishing ensued, but with'
out bringing on a general engagement.

Thus, we have passed in a very rapid review, the
principal events which preceded and induced the
crisis of General Burgoyne's expedition. The two
armies were now so situated that the catastrophe
could not long be averted, and the four succeeding
weeks were pregnant with dangers and difficulties,
and fruitful in the waste of human life.

We had so arranged our journey, as to lodge ai
Stillwater, and we were even desirous to stay in the
very house, which had been rendered memorable,
by the death of a distinguislied General of the Brit-
ish army.

This small house, which is still in tolerable re-
pair, and is now kept as a tavern, was, for some
time, the centre of the hospital camp ofGen.Bur-
goyne, and was rendered very memorable by the
events which happened in and near it.

We arrived, at night fall, in the midst of a hard
rain: obtained the refreshments we needed, and
made ourselves comfortable for the night. Willing
to arrest the impressions of the moment, I wrote
down such thoughts as the scene sugiested^

EBEC<

, but mih-

eview, the
duced the
The two
latastrophe
succeeding
difficuhies,

fOUat BETWEEM H.UtTrORD AND UUEBHC, SI

lodge at
stay in the
lemorable,
if the Brit-

erable re-
fer some

Gen. Bur-
le by the

sf a hard

ded, and

Willing

, I wrote

tiOUSEyi IN WHICH GENERAL FRA2ER DIED-

' Ten 0^ clock at night.

We are now on memorable ground. Here much
precious blood was shed, and now, in the silence
and solitude of a very dark and rainy night — the
family asleep, and nothing heard but the rain and
the Hudson, gently murmuring along, I am writing
in the very house ; and my table stands, on the very
spot in the room where General Frazer breathed
his last, on the eighth of October, 1777.

He was mortally wounded in the last of the two
desperate battles fought on the neighbouring heights,
and in the midst of the conflict, was brought to this
house by the soldiers. Before me lies one of the
bullets, shot on that occasion ; they are often found,
in ploughing the battle field.

Blood is asserted, by the people of the house, to
liave been visible here, on the fioor, till a very re-
cent period.

General Frazer was high in command, in the Brit-
ish army, and was almost idohzed by them : they
had the utmost confidence in his skill and valour,
and that the Americans entertained a similar opin-
ion of him, is sulficiently evinced by the following
anecdote, related to me at Ballston Springs, in 1797,

• In the former edition, this was named Swords' House — but I
am informed by Gen'l. Hoyt, that Swords' House, mentioned in
Gen'l. Burcroyne's " State of the Expedition," was two miles high*
or up the Hudson. (1824.)

'\{

' • [li

, *

82 TOUR BETWEEN HARTPORD AND QUEBEC.

by the Hon. Richard Brent, then a menaber of Con-
gress, fronn Virginia,* who derived the i act from
General Morgan's own mouth.

In the battle of October the seventh, the last pitch-
ed battle, that was fought between the two armies,
General Frazer mounted on an iron grey horse, was
very conspicuous. He was all activity, courage,
and vigilance, riding from one part of his division
to another, and animating the troops by his exam-
ple. Wherever he was present, every thing pros-
pered, and, when confusion appeared in any part of
the line, order and energy were restored by his arri-
val.

Colonel Morgan. f with his Virginia riflemen, was
immediately opposed to Frazer^s division of the
army. i im

It had been concerted, before the commence-
ment of the battle, that while the New-Hampshire
and the New-York troops attacked the British left,
Colonel Morgan with his regiment of Virginia riflle-
men, should make a circuit so as to come upon the
British right, and attack them there. In this attempt,
he was favoured by a woody hill, to the foot of
which the British right extended. When the at-
tack commenced on the British left, '' true to his

II, \

■ :f 1

* Since deceased.

t Afterwards General Morgan— tlie hero of the battle of the
Cowpens, and distinguished through the whole war^ by a series
of tlie most important services. ^^ lodnit! r»'ij ntf

BEC.

of Con-

\cX from

ist pitch-

armies,

"'a

)rse, was

courage,

division

s exam-

ng pros-

y part of

his arri-

nen, was

n of the

"€

nmence-

impshire

itish left,

niariflle-

■if

upon the

attempt,
; foot of

1 the at-

ue to his !

Iltle of the
by a series

J Ttf.j 1}lt

rOUIl BETWFEN HARTFORD AND Q,UFBEC. 83

purpose, Morgan at this critical moment, poured
down like a torrent from the hill, and attacked the
right of the enemy in front and flank."* The right
wing soon made a movement to support the left,
which was assailed with increased violence, and
while executing this movement, General Frazer re-
ceived his mortal wound.

In the midst of this sanguinury battle. Colonel
Morgan took a few of his best riflemen aside; men
in whose fidelity, and fatal precision of aim, he
could repose the most perfect confidence, and said
to them : " that gallant officer is General Frazer ; I
admire and respect him, but it is necessary that he
should die — take your stations in that wood and do
your duty." Within a few moments General Fra-
zer fell, mortally wounded f

How far, such personal designation is justifiable,
has often been questioned, but those who vindicate
war at all, contend, that to shoot a distinguished offi-
cer, and thus to acceler^^te the conclusion of a bloody
battle, operates to save lives, and that it is, morally^
no worse, to kill an ill istrions, than an obscure indi-
vidual ; a Frazer, than a common soldier ; a Nel-

* Wilkinson's Memoirs, Vol. I p. 268.

+ He was rurp^rted on his horee by two officers, till he reached
his tent ; he said thrtt he saw the man who shot him, that he was
n rifiemau, and puateJ in a tree.

■1

84 TOUil BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBtC.

i I

'. (

SON,* than a common sailor. But, there is some-
thing very revolting to humane feelings, in a mode
of warfare, which converts its ordinary chances into
a species of military execution. Such instances,
were, however, frequent, during the campaign of
General Burgoyne ; and his aid-de-camp, Sir Fran-
cis Clark, and many other British officers, were vic-
tims of American mrxrkmanship.

The Baroness Reidesel, the lady of Major Gene-
ral the Baron Reidesel, in some very interesting
letters of hers, published at Berlin, in 1800, and in
part republished in translation, in Wilkinson's me>
moirs, states that she, with her three little children,
(for she had, with this tender charge, followed the
fortunes of her husband, across the Atlantic, and
through the horrors of the campaign,) occupied this
house, which was the only refuge, within protection
of the British army. The rooms which it contain-
ed remain, to this day, as they then were, although
some other rooms have been since added.

The house stood, at that time, perhaps one hun-
dred yards from the river, at the foot of the hill ;
it was afterwards removed to the road side, close
by the river, where it now stands.

The Baroness, with her little children, occupied
the room in which we took tea, and General Fra-
zer, when brought in wounded, was laid in the other
room. In fact, as it was the oniy shelter that re-
mained standing, it was soon converted into a hos-

* Nelson was killed by « sharp shooter from the tops of the Saa-
tissima I'rinidada,

'^4

hi
a]

fi
tl
tl

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QITEREO.

lene-

pital, and many other wounded and dying officers
were brought to this melancholy refuge.

Thus a refined and dchcate lady, educated in all
the elegance of affluence and of elevated rank, with
her little children, was compelled to witness the
agonies of bleeding and dying men, among whom,
some of her husband^s, and of her own particular
i friends, expired before her eyes. She imparted to
them of her (gw remaining comforts, and soothed
them by offices of kindness. This distinguished
ladv "as not without female companions, who shar-
ed .=tir distresses, or felt with keenness their own
misfortunes. Among them was Lady Harriet Ack-
land, the wife of Major Ackland, who commanded
the British grenadiers. Nearly every thing that has
been said of the Baroness Reidesel, will apply to
her. News came, from time to time, from the
heights, that one officer and another was killed, and
among the rest, that Major Ackland was desperate-
ly wounded, and a prisoner with the enemy.

Major (called in General Burgoyne's narrative.
Colonel,) Ackland, had been wounded in the battle
of Hubberton, but had recovered, and resumed the
command of the grenadiers. He was wounded, the
se(.ond time, in the battle of October 7, and found
by General (then Colonel.) Wilkinson, who gives
the following interesting statement of the occur-
rence:* '* With the troops, 1 pursued the hard

pressed, flying enemy, passing over killed and
wounded, until I heard one exclaim, ' protect me,
* Memoirs, vol. I. p. 271.
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3G TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND (lUEDtC.

Sir, against this boy/ Turning my eyes, it was mj
fortune to arrest the purpose of a lad, thirteen or
fourteen years old, in the act of taking aim at a
wounded officer, who lay in the angle of a worm
fence. Inquiring his rank, he answered, * I had the
honour to command the Grenadiers ;^' of course I
knew him to be Major Ackland, who had been
brought from the field to this place, on the back of
a Captain Shrimpton, of his own corps, under a
heavy iire, and was deposited here, to save the
lives of both.*'*

" I dismounted, took him by the hand, and ex-
pressed hopes that he was not badly wounded ; not
badly,* replied this gallant officer, and accomplish-
ed gentleman, * but very inconveniently — I am shot
through both legs ; will you. Sir, have the good*
ness to have me conveyed to your cat<ip?' I direct-
ed my servant to alight, and we lifted Ackland into
his (the servant^s,) seat, and ordered him to be con-
ducted to head quarters."

* Anbury relates, (Travels, vol. I. p. 394,) that after Ackland
was deposited, by Captain Shrimpton, he oflered fifty fruineas to
the Greuadieri, who were flying by him, if any one of them would
convey him into camp ; that a very stout Grenadier undertook it,
but being overtaken by the Americans, both were made prisoners.
Anbury's book, however, although it contains many interesting
occurrences, which, so far a» they are stated on his own know-
ledge, are probably related with correctness — is evidently a madi
up work, and, what is curious enough, many pages of it, and by
far the most important parts, are taken, almost verbatim, from
General Burvnyne^s *'9t:<te of the Expedition from Cana-
da*'— altlii ue:h th»t work was not published, till three years after
Anbury's letters are dated.

I 1

M J

TOUR BP.TWEEN HARTPORD AND QUEBCc. 87

Two other ladies, who were in the same house
with madam Reidesel, received news, the 9ne, that
her husband was wounded, and the other, that hers
was slain ; and the Baroness herselfexpected, eve-
ry moment, to hear similar tidings; for the Baron's
duties, as commander in chief of the German troops,
required him to be frequently exposed to the most
imminent perils.

The Baroness Reidesel gives, in her narrative,
the following recital, respecting General Frazer'i
death : — '^ severe trials awaited us, and on the 7th
of October, our misfortunes began ; I was at break-
fast, with my husband, and heard that something
was intended. On the same day, 1 expected the
Generals Burgoyne, Philips and Frazer, to dine with
us. 1 saw a great movement among the troops ; my
husband told me it was a mere reconnoissance,
which gave me no concern, as it often happened.
1 walked out of the house, and met several Indians,
in their war dresses, with guns in their hands. When
I asked them where they were going, they cried
out, War ! War ! (meaning that they were going to
battle.) This filled me with apprehensions, and I
had scarcely got home, before I heard reports of
cannon and musketry, which grew louder by de*
grees, till at last the noise became excessive.
About four o'clock in the afternoon, instead of the
guests whom 1 expected, General Frazer was
brought, on a litter, morfaily wounded. The table,
which was already set, was instantly removed; and

t.l

88 TOUR BETWEEN HARTPORD AND qUEISEC.

a bed placed in its stead, for the wounded General.
I sat trembling in a corner; the noise grew louder,
and the alarm increased: the thought that my hus-
band might, perhaps, be brought in, wounded in the
same manner, was terrible to me, and distressed
me exceedingly.

General Frazer said to the surgeon, 4ell me if
my wound is mortal — do not flatter me/ The ball
had passed through his body, and, unhappily for the
General, he had eaten a very hearty breakfast, by
which the stomach was diste:ided, and the ball, as
the surgeon said, had passed through it. I
heard him often exclaim, with a sigh, *0 fatal
ambition! Poor General Burooync! O, mv
POOR wife!' He was asked if he had any request
to make, to which he replied, that ^if General

BuKCOYNE WOULD PERMIT IT HE SHOULD LIKE TO
BE BURIED AT SIX oVlOCK IN THE EVENING, ON THE
TOP OF A MOUNTAIN, IN A REDOUBT WHICH HAD

BEEN BUILT THERE.* Towards evening, I saw my
husband coming ; then I forgot all my sorrows, and
thanked God that he was spared to me.''

The German Baroness spent much of the night
in comforting lady Harriet Ackland, and in taking
care of her children, whom she had put to bed. Of
herself she says — '^ I could not go to sleep, as I had
Gcn«3ral Frazer and all the other wounded gentle-
men in my room, and i was sadly afraid my chil-
dren would awakp, and, by their crying, disturb the
dying man, in his last moments, who often address-

General.
r louder,
my bus-
ed ill the
listressed

ell me if
The ball
\y for the
kfast, by
s ball, as
;h it. I

O FATAL
O, MY

y request
General

) LIKE TO
I, ON THE
ICH HAD

I saw my
ows, and

the night
n taking
bed. Of
as I had
gentle-
my chil-
turb the
address-

rOUR BETWEEN HARTFOHD AND QUBBEC. 80

ed me, and apologized ^for the trouble he gave me.'
About three o'clock in the morning, I was told he
could not hold out much longer ; I had desired to
be informed of the near approach of this sad crisis,
and 1 then wrapped up my children in their clothes,
and went with them into the room below. About
eight o'clock in the morning, he died. After he
was laid out, and his corpse wrapped up in a sheet,
we came again into the room, and we had this sor-
rowful sight before us the whole day; and, to add
to the melancholy scene, almost every moment
some officer of my acquaintance was brought in
wounded." - .

What a situation for delicate females — a small
house, filled with bleeding and expiring men — the
battle roaring, and raging all around — little children
to be soothed and protected, and female domestics*
in despair, to be coiiforted — cordials and aids, such
as were attainable, to be administered to the wound-
ed and dying — ruin impending over the army, and
they knew not what insults, worse than death, might
await themselves, from those whom they had been
taught to consider as base, as well as cowardly.

Both these illustrious females learned, not long
after, a different lesson. I have already remarked,
that Major Ackland was wounded and taken pris-
oner. His lady, with heroic courage, and exempla-
ry conjugal tenderness, passed down the river, to
our army, with a letter from General Burgoyne to
General Gates ; and, although somewhat detained

>■:

.. \l

90 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC.

.ftk

I ^m

on the river, because it was night when she arriv-
ed, and the sentinel would not permit her to land,
till he had received orders from his superior, she
was, as soon as her errand was made known, re-
ceived by the Americans, with the utmost respect,
kindness, and delicacy. Her husband, many years
after the war, even lost his life in a duel, which he
fought with an officer who called the Americans
cowards. Ackland espoused their cause, and vin-
dicated it in this unhappy manner. ' ' : ■^...

General Burgoyne, in his "State of the Expedition
from Canada," has mentioned, with much respect
and feeling, the case of lady Harriet Ackland. It
seems she came with her husband lo Canada, early
in the year 17'"6, and accompanied him through that
campaign, in all the varietiesof travelling and of the
seasons, '* to attend, in a poor hut, at Chambly, up-
on his sick bed.^' At the opening of the campaign
of 1777, she, by the positive injunctions of her hus-
band, remained at Ticonderoga, till, hearing of his
being wounded at Ca^tleton, she went over to him,
and. j^ft.-r his recovery, persisted in following his
fortMuof. wilh no other vehicle, than a little two-
wh»"clr<J tumbnl, constructed in the camp on the
Hiidsioii. She. with (he Major, was, on a particular
occasion near perishing in the flames, in conse-
quence of their hut taking fire in the night. As the
grenadiers, whom Major Ackland commanded,
wtrtf attached to the advanced corps, this lady was
exposed to all their fatigues, and to many of their

BEC.

she arriv-
r to land,
erior, she
nown, re-
it respect,
any years
which he
Vmericans
, and vin-

Ixpedition
:h respect
eland. It
ada, early
rough that
and of the
imbly, up-
campaign
f her hus-
ingof his
er to him,
owing his
ittle two-
ip on the
particular
in conse-
nt. As the
mmandcd,
a lady was
ly of their

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEUEC. 9l

perils, and was at last obliged, during the battle of
the 7th of October, to take refuge " annong the
wounded and dying." * ' '

With respect to her proposal, to go over to the
American camp, to take care of her husband. Gener-
al Burgoyne remarks,* " Though I was ready to be-
lieve, (for I had experienced,) that patience and
fortitude, in a supreme degree, were to be found
as well as every other virtue, under the most tender
forms, 1 was astonished at this proposal. After so
long an agitation of the spirits, exhausted, not only
for want of rest, but absolutely want of food, drench*
ed in rains for twelve hours together, that a woman
should be capable of delivering herself to the ene-
my, probably in the night, and uncertain of what
hands she might tirst fall into, appeared an effort,
above human nature. The assistance I was enabled
to give, was small indeed ; I had not even a cup of
wine to offer her ; but I was told, she had found
from some kind and fortunate hand, a little rum and
dirty water. All I could furnish to her, was an
open boat, and a few lines, written upon dirty and
wet paper, to General Gates, recommending her to

his protection." *' It is due to justice, at the

close of this adventure, to say, that she was receiv-
ed, and accommodated by General Gates, with all the
humanity and respect, that her rank, her merits, and
her fortunes deserved."

* State of the expedition, &c. page 128.

» 'H

l/'r' ;

^ f^.

I! {

■1 i ' •

/¥

92 TOUR BETWEEll HARTFORD AND QUEBEC

I omit to quote General Burgoyne's statement, that
lady Harriet Ackland was detained through the
night in the open boat, because, we are now in-
formed, on the authority of Generals Wilkinson* and
Dearborn, that this was a total misrepresentation,
although, probably, not originating withGeneral Bur-
goyne. It seems General Dearborn (then a Major,)
gommanded, at the post where the boat was hailed.
As soon as the character of the lady was known, she
was immediately provided with a comfortable apart-
ment, and refreshments, and fire, and, in the morn-
ing, was forwarded on her way to the camp. " Let
such,'^ adds General Burgoyne, "as are affected by.
these circumstances of alarm, hardship, and danger,
recollect that the subject of them was a woman, of
the most tender and delicate frame ; of the gentlest
manners ; habituated to all the soft elegancies, and
refined enjoyments, that attend high birth and for-
tune; and far advanced in a state, in which the ten-
der cares, always due to the sex, become indispen-
sably necessary. Her mind alone was formed for
such trials.'*

Lady Reidesel, immediately on tbe surrender of
the army, received on the spot, from General Schuy-
ler, (and that spot was his own devastated estate,)
the most kind and soothing attentions, which she and
her children so eminently needed, and afterwards,
in the family of this magnanimous and generous

* Memoin, Vol. I. p. 283. j^g,^ -»

ent, that
ugh the
now in-
son*and
mtation,
sral Bur-
Major,)
s hailed,
own, she
le apart-
le morn-
?. " Let
ected by.
I danger,
Oman, of
gentlest
cies, and
and for-
the ten*
idispen-
ned for

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD A>fD QUEBEC. 93

man, she experienced from Mrs. Schuyler and her
daughters, all the attentions and sympathies o(
friendship.

After the surrender, and the officers had gone
over to General Gates' army, General Reidesel sent
a message to his lady, to come to him with her chil-
dren. She says in her narrative, *' I seated myself
once more, in my dear calash, and then rode
through the American camp. As I passed on, I
observed, (and this was a great consolation to me,)
that no one eyed me with looks of resentment, but
they all greeted us, and even showed compassion in
their countenances, at the sight of a woman with
small children. I was, 1 confess, afraid to go over
to the enemy, as it was quite a new situation to me.
AVhen I drew near the tents, a handsome man ap-
proached and met me, took my children from the
calash, and hugged and kissed them, which affected
me almost to tears. " You tremble," said he, ad-
dressing himself to me, " be not afraid." *' No," I
answered, " you seem so kind and tender to ^•..-.y
children, it inspires me with courage." He nop
led me to the tent of General Gates."——'* All
the Generals remained to dine withGrneral Gates."
"The same gentleman who received me so kind-
ly, now came and said to me, *' You will be very
much embarrassed to eat with all these gentlemen ;
come with your children to my tent, where 1 will
prepare for you a frugal dinner, and give it with a
free will." 1 said, '* you are certainly a hus-

il '

99^

i; ^1

94 TOUR BETWKKN HARTFORD AND <tUEnKC.

BAND AND A FATHER, you havc shewn me so mucli
kindness."

** I now found that he was General Schuyler. He
treated me with excellent smoked tongue, beef-
dteaks, potatoes, and good bread and butter ! Nev-
er could I have wished to eat a better dinner : I
was content ; I saw all around me were so like-
wise ; and what was better than all, my husband
was out of danger ! When we had dined, he told me
his residence was at Albany, and that General Bur-
goyne intended to honour him as his guest, and in-
vited myself and children to do so likewise. I ask-
ed my husband how I should act ; he told me to

accept the invitation." ** Some days after

this, we arrived at Albany, where we so often wish-
ed ourselves ; but, we did not enter it, as we ex-
pected we should, victors ! We were received by
the good General Schuyler, his wife, and daughters,
not as enemies, but kind friends ; and they treated
us with the most marked attention and politeness,
as they did General Burgoyne, who had caused
General Schuyler's beautifully finished house to be
burnt ; in fact, they behaved like persons of exalted
minds, who determined to bury all recollection of
their oton injuries in the contemplation of our mis-
fortunes. General Burgoyne was struck with Gen-
eral Schuyler's generosity, and said to him, '* You
show me great kindness^ although I have done you
much injury." " Thai was the fate of toar^^^ repli-
ed the brave man, ^' let us say no more about it.*

\ S

I
1

unic.

e so mucti

JYLER* He
gue, beef-
ier! Nev-
diniier : I
■e so like*
y husband
he told me
meral Bur-
ist, and in-
se. I ask-
told me to
I days after
often wish-
as we ex-
•eceived by
daughters,
ley treated
politeness,
lad caused
louse to be
s of exalted
jllection of
of our mis-
with Gen-
mm, " You
e done you
oaft'* repli-
about it.'

TOUR BETWEEN HARTPORU AND QUEBEC. 95

Thus, not only General Burgoyne, hut a number
of the most distinguished officers of the army, in-
cluding Baron Reidesel, and Major Ackland, and
their ladies, were actually lodged for weeks, and
most hospitably entertained, in the house of the
man, whose elegant villa at Saratoga, they had wan-
tonly* burnt, and whose fine estate there they had
spoiled.

Retiring at a late hour to my bed, it will be easi-
ly perceived, that the tender and heroic ideas, as-
sociated with this memorable house, would strongly
possess my mind. The night was mantled in black
clouds, and impenetrable darkness ; the rain, in-
creasing, descended in torrents, upon the roof of
this humble mansion ; the water, urged from the
heights, poured with loud and incessant rumbling,
through a neighbouring aqueduct ; and the Hud-
son, as if conscious that blood had once stained its
waters, and its banks, rolled along with sullen mur-
murs ;— the distinguished persons, who, forty-two
years since, occupied this tenement — the agonized
females— the terrified, imploring children— and the
gallant chiefs, in all the grandeur of heroic suffering
and death, were vividly present to my mind— all the

* It was asserted, in justificatioD, that the house was burnt to
prevent its being a cover for the Americans, and that the esUte
was rayajed in foraging;.

■\

96 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC.

realities of the night, and the sublime and tender
images of the past, conspired to give my faculties
too much activity for sleep, and I will not deny that
the dawning light was grateful to my eyes !

THE BATTLE GROUND.

The rain having ceased, I was on horseback at
early dawn, with a veteran guide to conduct me to
the battle ground. Although he was seventy-five
years old, he did not detain me a moment ; in con-
sequence of an appointment the evening before, he
was waiting my arrival at his house, a mile below
our inn, and, declining any aid, he mounted a tall
horse from the ground. His name was Ezra Buel,^
a native of Lebanon in Connecticut, which place
he left in his youth, and was settled here, at the
time of General Burgoyne*s invasion. He acted,
through the whole time, as a guide to the American
army, and was one of three who were constantly
employed in that service. His duty led him to be
always foremost, and in the post of danger ; and he
was, therefore, admirably qualified for my purpose.

* Called eoUoqniaUy, in the neighbourhood, Major Buely a rank
whiuh he never had in the army, but which was faettiomly as-
signed him, while in the service, by his brother guides. He is
much respected as a worthy man.— 1820.

Major Bur], I believe, still lives. I saw him at Ballston
Springs, in July 18^^), still active and useful, although almost
fourscore ; he was then acting as crier of a State Court at that
time in session at Ballstown. — Mar. 1824.

^a^

lEC.

[id tender

faculties

deny that

seback at
uct me to
venty-fivc
t ; in con-
before, he
lile below
kted a tall
sra Buel,*
lich place
;re, at the
rie acted,
American
constantly
lim to be
; and he
purpose.

Budt a rank
leeliomljf as-
ides. He 18

at Ballston
ough almost
ourt at that

T0UR BETWEEN UARTFORD AND QUEBEC 97

The two great battles which decided the fate of
Burgoyne'a army, were fought, the first on the 19th
of September, and the last, on the 7th of October,
on Bemus' heights, and very nearly on the same
ground, which is about two miles west of the river.

The river is, in this region, bordered for many
miles, by a continued meadow, of no great breadth ;
upon this meadow, there was then, as there is now,
a good road, close to the river, and parallel to it.
Upon this road, marched the heavy artillery and
baggage, constituting the left wing of the British ar-
my, while the Elite, forming the right wing and
composed of the light troops, was kept constantly
in advance, on the heights which bound the meadows.

The American army was south and west of the
British, its right wing on the river, and its left rest-
ing on the height^!. We passed over a part of their
camp a little below Stillwater.*

* Id May 1821, 1 again visited these battle grounds, and arailed
myself of that opportunity, in company with my faithful old guide
Major Buel, to explore the camp of General Gates. It is situated
about three miles below Smith's tavern, (the house where General
Frazer died,) and is easily approached by a cross road, which turns
up the heights from the great river road. It is not more than half a
mile from the river to the camp. I found it an intere«t,ing place,and
would recommend it to travellers to visit this spot, as they will
thus obtain a perfectly clear idea of the relative position of the
hostile armies, and of the route pursued by the Americans when
they marched out to battle.- The outlines of the camp are still dis-
tinctly visible, being marked by the lines of delience, which were
thrown up on the occasion, and which, although depressed by
time, will long be conspicuous, if they are not levelled by the
plough. My guide pointed out the ground occupied by the differ-
ent corps of the army. Col. Morgan, with the Vii^inian Rifle*

^■i

( ,1M

98 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC.

A great part of the battle ground was occupied
by lofty forest trees, principally pine, with here and
there, a few cleared fields, of which the most con-
men was in advance, on the ri°;ht, that is, nearest the river ; the
advance, was the post always coveted by this incomparable corps,
and surely none could claim it with more propriety. There was
much danger that the enemy would attempt to storm the camp of
the Americans, and had they been successful in either of the
great battles (Sept. 19, and Jot. 7,) they would, without doubt,
have attacked the camp.

The most interesting object that I saw in this cam pi was the
house which was Gen. Gates' head quarters. I am afraid that the
traveller may not long find tiiis memorable house, for it was much
dilapidated — a part of (he roof had fallen in, and the winds whis-
tled through the naked timbers. One room was however, tenant*
able, and was occupied by a cooper and his family. From the
style of the pannel work and finishing of this room, the house ap>
pears to have been, in its day, one of the better sort — the pan-
sels were large and handsome, and the door was still ornamented
with brass handles. — Here Sir Francis Clark, Aid du Camp to
Gen. Burgoyne, being mortally wounded and takea prisoner, lan-
guished and ilied Gen. Wilkinson has recorded some interesting
passages of his last moments, particularly his animated discus*
•ion with Gen. Gates on the merits of the contest. The recollec-
tion of the fate of this brave but unfortunate officer will always be
associated with this building, while a single timber of it remains.

My guide conducted me from the American camp along the
summit of the heights, by the same route, which was pursued by
our gallant countrymen, when they advanced to meet Uieir for-
midable foe, and I hud the satisfaction of treading (he ground
which they trotl, in the silence and siolcmnity of impending couflict.

In pursuing this route, the traveller, if accompanied by an in-
telligent guide, will have a very interesting op|)ortuni(y of mark-
ing the exact places where the advanced guards and front lines of
the contending armies met . In this manner we advanced quite to
Freeman's farm, the great scene of slaughter, and tK^nceaescend-
ed again to the centre of the British encampment on the plains.

-^ --

DEC.

occupied
here and
lost con-

! river ; the
•able corps,
There was
:he camp of
ther of the
lout doubt,

ip,was the
aid that the
\. was much
'inds whis-
ker, teDant-
From the
3 house ap-
— the pan-
irnnmented
1 Camp to
isuner, lan-
intercsting^
ted discus-
le recollec-
l always be
it remains.
» along the
pursued by
Uieir for-
I he ground
ig couflict.
I by an in-
y of mark -
)nt iinei of
ed quite to
e uescend-
le plains.

«DUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 99

spicuous in these sanguinary scenes, was called
Freeman's farm, and is so called in General Bur-
goyne's plans. Such is nearly the present situaion
of these heights, only there is more cleared land;
the gigantic trees have been principally felled, but
a considerable number remain as witnesses to pos-
terity ; they still show the wounds, made in their
trunks and branches, by the missiles of contending
armies ; their roots still penetrate the soil, that wag
made fruitful by the blood of the brave, and their
aombre foliage still murmurs with the breeze, which
once sighed, as it bore the departing spirits along.

My veteran guide, warmed by my curiosity, and
recalling the feelings of his prime, led me, with
amazing rapidity, and promptitude, over fences and
ditches— through water and mire — through ravines
and defiles —through thick forests, and open fields —
and up and down very steep hills ; in short, through
many places, where, alone, I would not have ven-
tured; but, it would have been shameful for me
not to follow where a man of seventy-live would
lead, and to hesitate to explore inpcace^ the ground,
which the defenders of their country, and their
foes once trod, in steps of blood.

On our way to Freeman's farm, we traced the
line of the British encampment, still marked by a
breast work of logs, now rotten, but retaining their
forms ; they were, at the time, covered with earth,
and the barrier between contending armies, is now
a fence, to mark the peaceful divisions of agricul-
ture. This breast work, I cuppose to be a part of

■t

■A

\ t
I

'/ : 1

■

100 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND qUBBEC«

the line of encampment, occupied by General Bur-
goyne, after the battle of the 19th of September,
and which was stormed on the evening of the 7th of
October.

The old man showed me the exact spot, where
an accidental skirmish, between advanced parties of
the two armies, soon brought on the general and
bloodybattle of September 19.

This was on Freeman^s farm, a field which was
then cleared, although surrounded by forest. The
British picket here occupied a small house,* when
a part of Co). Morgan's corps fell in with, and im-
mediately drove them from it, leaving the hou^e al-
most " encircled with their dead." The pursuing
party, immediately, and very unexpectedly, fell in
with the British line, and were in part captured,
and the rest dispersed.

This incident occurred at half past 12 o'clock ;
there was then an intermission till one, when the
action was sharply renewed ; but it did not become
general, till three, from which time it raged with
unabated fury, till night. *' The theatre of action'*
(says General Wilkinson,! was such that although
the combatants changed ground a dozen times, in the
course of the day, the contest terminated on the spot
where it began. This may be explained in a few

• Major Forbes, of the Britiah army, itates, that the American
picket txsoupied the house; both facts might have been true at
different periods of the affair.

f I

t Memoirs, Vol. I. p. 240.

IUEBEC«

oeral Bur
September,
the 7th of

ot, where

parties of

ioeral and

i^hich was
est. The
se,* when
) and im-
house al-
pursuing
ly, fell in
captured,

o'clock ;
pyhen the
t become
;ed with
r action'*
although
ss, in the
the spot
in a few

Atnericao
n true nt

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 101

words. The British line was formed on an eminence
in a thin pine wood, having befo o it Freoman's
farm, an oblong field, stretching from the centre to-
wards its right, the grotmd in front sloping gently
down to the verge of this field, which was bordered,
on the opposite side, by a close wood : the sanguina-
ry scene lay in the cleared ground, between the emi-
nence occupied by the enemy, and the wood just
described; the fire of our marksmen from thig
wood, was too deadly to be withstood, by the ene-
my, in line, and when they gave way and broke,
our men rushing from their covert, pursued them to
the eminence, where, having their flanks protect-
ed, they rallied, and charging in turn, drove us back
into the wood, from whence a dreadful fire would
again force them to fall back ; and in this manner,
did the battle fluctuate, like waves of a stormy sea,
with alternate advantages for four hours, without
one moment's intermission. The British artillery
fell init) our possession, at every charge, but we
could neither turn the pieces upon the enemy nor
bring them off; the wood prevented the last, and
the want of a match the first, as the lintstock was
invariably, carried off, and the rapidity of the tran-
sitions did not allow us time to provide one ; the
slaughter of this brigade of artillerists was remarka-
ble, the Captain (Jones) and thirty-six men being
killed or wounded out of forty-eight. It was truly
a gallant conflict, in which death, by familiarity, lost
his terrors, and certainly a drawn battle, as night

.r* * "^

103 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC.

F' *!

'■'my)

alone terminated it : the British army keeping its
ground in rear of the field of action, and our corps,
when they could no longer distinguish objects, re-
tiring to their own camp. Yet General Bui^oyne
claimed a victory.^'

It had, however, with respect to him, all the con-
sequences of a defeat: his loss was between five
and six hundred, while ours was but little more than
half that number; his loss was irreparable, ours
easily repaired, and in proportion to our entire ar-
my, as well as absolutely, it was much less than his.

The stress of the action as regards the British,
lay, principally on the twentieth, twenty-first and
sixty-second regiments ; the latter which was fire
hundred strong when it left Canada, was reduced
to less than sixty-men, and to four or five officers.*

General Burgoyne states that there was scarcely
ever an interval of a minute in the smoke, when
some British officer was not shot by the American
riflemen, posted in the trees, in the rear and on the
flank of their own line. A shot which was meant
for General Burgoyne, severely wounded Captain
Green, an Aid du Camp of General Phillips: the
mistake was owing to the Captain^s having a richly
laced furniture to his saddle, which caused the
marksman to mistake him for the General.

Such was the ardor of the Americans, that, as
General Wilkinson states, the wounded men, after

* Gordon.

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 103

having their wounds dressed, in many instances, re-
turned again into the battle.

The battle of the seventh of October was fought
on the same ground, but it was not so stationary ;
it commenced farther to the right, and extended, in
its various periods, over more surface, eventually
occupying not only Freeman's farm, but it was
urged by the Americans, to the very camp of the
enemy, which, towards night, was most impetuous-
ly stormed, and in part carried.

The interval between the nineteenth of Septem-
ber, and the seventh of October, was one of great
anxiety to both armies ; ***not a night passed, (adds
General Burgoyne,) without firing, and sometimes
concerted attacks upon our pickets ; no foraging
party could be made without great detachments to
cover it ; it was the plan of the enemy to harrass
the army, by constant alarms, and their superiority
of numbers enabled them to attempt it, without fa-
tigue to themselves. By being habituated to fire,
our soldiers became indifferent to it, and were ca-
pable of eating or sleeping when it was very near
them ; but I do not believe that either officer or
soldier ever slept during that interval, without his
clothes, or that any general officer, or commander
of a regiment, passed a single night, without being
upon his legs, occasionally, at different hours, and
constantly, an hour before day light."

* Stnte of the Expedition

104 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC.

The battle of the seventh was brought on by a
movement of General Burgoyne, who caused one
thousand five hundred men, with ten pieces of
artillery, to march towards the left of the American
army for the purpose of discovering whether it was
possible to force a passage ; or in case a retreat of
the royal army should become indispensable, to dis-
lodge the Americans from their intrenchments, and
also to cover a foraging excursion which had now be-
come pressingly necessary. It was about the middle
of the afternoon, that the British were observed ad-
vancing, and the Americans, with small arms, lost
no time in attacking the British grenadiers and ar-
tillery, although under a tremendous (ire from the
latter ; the battle soon extended along the whole
line : Colonel Morgan, at the same moment, attack-
ed, with his riflemen, on the right wing; Colonel
Ackland, the commander of the grenadiers, fell,
wounded ; the grenadiers were defeated, and most
of the artillery taken, after great slaughter.

At the end of a most sanguinary contest, of less than
one hour, the discomfiture and retreat of the British
became general, and they had scarcely regained their
camp, before the lines were stormed with the great-
est fury, and part of Lord Balcarras' camp, was for
a short time in our possession.

I saw this spot, and also (hat where the Germani,
under Colonel Breyman, forming the right reserve
of (he army, were stormed, in their encampment,
by General Learned, and Colonel Brooks, now

I i

TOCR BETWEKN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 105

Governor Brooks, of Massachusetts. General Ar-
nold was wounded on this occasion ; Colonel Brey-
man was killed ; and the Germans were either cap-
tured, slain, or forced to retreat in the most precip-
itate manner, leaving the British encampment on
the right, entirely unpiotected, and liable to be as-
sailed the next morning. All the British officers
bear testimony to the valour and obstinacy of the at-
tacks of the Americans. The fact was, the British
were sorely defeated, routed, and vigorously pur-
sued to their lines, which it seems probable, would
have been entirely carried by assault, had not dark-
ness, as in the battle of the 19th, put an end to the
sanguinary contest. It is obvious, from General
Burgoyne's own account, and from the testimony
of his officers, that this was a severe defeat ; and
such an one as has rarely been experienced by a
British army ; this army was reduced by it to the
greatest distress, and nothing but night saved them
from destruction.

I was on the ground where the grenadiers, and
where the artillery were stationed. " Here, upon
this hill,^* (said my hoary guide,) on the yery spot
where we now stand, the dead men lay, thicker
than ever you saw sheaves on a fruitful harvest
field." "Were they British, or Americans?'*
*'Both," he replied, "but principally British." I
suppose that it is of this ground, that General Wil-
kinson remarks, " it presented a scene of compli-
cated horror and exultation. In the square space

«'*

I '

106 TOUR BETWEEN BABTrORU AND ^UKBEV.

of twelve or fifteen yards, lay eighteen grenadiers
in the agony of death ; and three officers, propped
up against stumps of trees, two of them mortally
wounded, bleeding, and almost speechless.'^

My guide, proceeding with his narrative, said,
^ there stood a British field piece, which bad been
twice taken, and retaken, and finally remained in
our possession : I was on the ground, and said to
an American Colonel, who came up at the mo-
ment, * Colonel, we have taken this piece, and now
we want you to swear it true to America ;^ so the
Colonel swore it true, and we turned it around, and
tired upon the British, with their own cannon, and
with their own ammunition, still remaining uncon-
sumed in their boxes." I presume General Wil-
kinson alludes to the same anecdote, when he says,
*' I found the courageous Colonel Cilley a straddle
on a brass twelve pounder, and exulting in the cap-
ture.

I was solicitous to see the exact spot where Gen-
eral Frazer, received his mortal wound. My old
guide knew it perfectly well, and pointed it out to
me. It is in a meadow, just ob the right of the
road, after passing a blacksmith's shop, and going
south a few rods. The blacksmith's shop, is on a
road, which runs parallel to the Hudson — it stands
elevated, and overlooks Freeman's farm.

The night of October 7th, was a most critical one
for the royal army j in the course of it, they aban-

TOUR BETWEEN HARTPORD AND QUEBEC. 107

doncd their camp, changed their whole position, and
retreated to their works upon the heights, contigu-
ous to the river, and immediately behind the hos

I saw various places, where the dead were inter*
red ; a rivulet, or creek, passes through the battle
ground, and still washes out from its banks, the
bonos of the slain. This rivulet is often mentioned
ill the accounts of these battles, and the deep ravine
through which it passes ; on our return, we follow-
ed this ravine, and rivulet, through the greater part
of their course, till they united with the Fludson
river.

Farm houses are dispersed, here and there, over
the field of battle, and the people often find, even
now, gun-barrels and bayonets, cannon balls, grape
shot, bullets, and human bones. Of the three last, I
took from one of these people, some painful speci-
mens ; — some of the bullets were battered and mis-
shaped, evincing that they had come into collision
with opposing obstacles.

Entire skeletons are occasionally found ; a man
told me, that, in ploughing, during the late summer,
he turned one up ; it was not covered more than
three inches with earth ; it lay on its side, and the
arms were in the form of a bow ; it was, probably;
some solitary victim, that never was buried. Such
are the memorials still existing, of these great mili-
tary events ; great, not so much on account of the
numbers of the actors, as from the momentous iute-

V- ' I

108 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND (QUEBEC.

rests at stake, and from the magnanimous efforts to
which they gave origin.

I would not envy that man his state of feeling, who
could visit such fields of battle without emotion, or
who, (being an American,) could fail to indulge admi-
ration and affection, for the soldiers and martyrs of
liberty, and respect for the valour of their enemies.

GENERAL FRAZER'S GRAVE.

'? '»,

Having taken my guide home to breakfast, we
made use of his knowledge of the country, to iden«
tify with certainty, the place of General Frazer's
interment.

General Burgoyne mentions, two redoubts, that
were thrown up, on the hills behind his hospital ;
they are both still very distinct, and in one of these,
which is called the great redoubt, by the officers of
General Bui^oyne's army. General Frazer was bu-
ried. It is true, it has been disputed, which is the
redoubt in question, but our guide stated to us, that
within his knowledge, a British Sergeant, three or
four years, after the surrender of Bui^oyne's army,
came, and pointed out the grave. We went to the
spot; it is within the redoubt, on the top of the hill,
nearest to the house, where the General died, and
corresponds with the plate in Anbury's travels,

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND I^UEBEC. 109

taken from an original drawing, made by Sir Francis
Clark, aid de camp to General Burgoyne, and with
the statement of the General in his defence, as well
as with the account of Madam Reidesel.

General Frazer, when dying, sent with the "kind-
est expression of his affection, for General Burgoyne,
a request, that he might be carried without parade,
by the soldiers of his corps, to the great redoubt,
and buried there.''

The circumstances of this memorable interment,
have been often mentioned.

The body, attended by General Burgoyne, and
the other principal officers of the army, who could
not resist the impulse to join the procession, moved,
winding slowly up the hill, within view of the great-
er part of both armies, while an incessant cannonade*
from the Americans, who observed a collection of
people, without knowing the occasion, covered the
procession with dust ; — the clergyman, the Rev.
Mr. Brudenel, went through the funeral service,
withperfectcomposure, and propriety, notwithstand-
ing the cannonade, and thus the last honors were
paid one of the chiefs of the British army.

* I am happy for the honour of my country, to add, on the au-
thority of Gen. Winalow, who commanded the gun, which
was fired on this occasion, that as soon as they discovered that it
was a funeral procession, they ceased firing; shot, and commenced
firing minute guns — a high minded mark of respect, sometimes
shown, when a distinguished enemy is buried. 1824.

, {Private eomtnwiicalion to the author.)

10*

'-.*./

'\\

-^e-< V'

f \)

no TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC.

The Baroness Reidesel, who was a spectator,
speaks of the funeral service, as being " rendered
unusually solemn and awful, from its being accom-
panied by constant peals from the enemy's artillery ,''
and adds— ^^ many cannon balls, flew close by me,
but 1 had my eyes directed to the mountain where
my husband was standing amidst the fire of the ene-
my, and of course, I could not think of my own
danger.''

General Burgoyne's eloquent delineation of the
same scene, although often quoted before by oth-
ers, is too interesting to be omitted on the pres*
ent occasion : — " The incessant cannonade, during
the solemnity ; the steady attitude and unaltered
voice, with which the clergyman officiated, though
frequently covered with dust, which the shot threw
up on all sides of him ; the mute but expressive
mixture of sensibility and indignation, upon every
countenance ; these objects will remain, to the last
of life, upon the mind of every man who was present.
The growing duskiness, added to the scenery, and
the whole marked a character of that juncture, that
would make one of the finest subjects for the pencil
of a master, that the field ever exhibited. To the
canvass and to the page of a more important histo-
rian, gallant friend ! I consign thy memory. There
may thy talents, thy manly virtues, their progress
and their period, find due distinction ; and long may
they survive ; long after the frail record of my pen
shall be forgotten " '

< f

ZBEC*

spectator,
' rendered
ng accom-
artillery,"
►se by me,
ain where
f the ene-
r my own

ion of the
e by oth-
the pres*
de, during
unaltered
id, though
hot threw
expressive
3on every
to the last
is present,
inery, and
ture, that
the pencil
To the
tant histo-
. There
progress
long may
>f my pen

^ •«

!.■'

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND ^CEBEC. tit

The place of the interment, was formerly desig-
nated, by a little fence, surrounding the grave. I
was here in 1797, twenty-two years ago, the grave
was then distinctly visible, but the remains have been
since dug up, by some English gentlemen, aod car-
ried to England.*

The circumstances of the British were now very
distressing, and they constantly expected a renewed
attack from the Americans. Speaking of the death
of General Frazer, General Burgoync remarks :
" The whole of the 8th of October was correspond-
ent to this inauspicious beginning. The hours were
measured by a succession of immediate cares, in-
creasing doubts and melancholy objects. The ene-
my were formed in two lines. Every part of their
disposition, as well as the repeated attacks on lord
Balcarras' corps, and the cannonade from the
plain, kept the troops in momentary expectation of
a general action. During this suspense, wounded
officers, some upon crutches, and others even carri-
ed upon hand barrows, by their servants, were oc-
casionally ascending the hill, from the hospital
tents, to take their share in the action, or follow the
march of the army. The Generals were employed
in exhorting the troops."

* Such was the statement made to me by th« people in the vi-
cinity, but I have since, heard doubts expressed of the correct-
ness of this report, by a gentleman, who has made the history of
thiscampaignanobject of much inquiry. 1824.

■ J

it
) ^

■*■

112 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC.

I 1'

That commander, who, in the commencement of
the campaign, had uttered in his general orders, the
memorable sentiment— " this army must not re-
treat," was now compelled to seek his safety by
stealing away in the night, from his victorious ene-
my. Numerous fires were lighted — several tents
left standing, and the retreat was ordered to be con-
ducted with the greatest secrecy. The army com-
menced its retrograde motion at nine o'clock on
the night of the eighth, pursuing the river road ,
through the mcadov.'s. It moved all night ; but the
succeeding day was excessively rainy, and the roads
so bad, that they did not reach Saratoga, a distance
of only six miles, till the evening of the ninth. The
rains had so swelled the Fishkill, that they did not
pass that rivulet till the morning of the tenth, when,
finding their enemies already in possession of the
fords of the Hudson, they took up a strong position
which proved their final one.

General Burgoyne left his hospital, containing
more than three hundred sick and wounded, to the
mercy of General Gates, who in this, as in all other
instances, exhibited towards the eneray^ the greatest
humanity and kindness.

The house, where Mr. W. and myself lodged, was
the centre of this military hospital, and was occupi-
ed by the wounded officers, while the common sol-
diers were comfortably accommodatedi in the vicin-
ity, in tents.

:^%^.p-^^ .■ • —

TEBEC.

I TOUR BETWfiEV HARTFOBD AND QUEBEC. 113

cement of
>rders, the
not re-
safety by
•ious ene-
eral tents
to be con-
rmy com-
'clock on
^er road ,
; but the
the roads
1 distance
lb. The
y did not
th, when,
m of the
position

ontaining
d, to the
all other
' greatest

ged, was

occupi-

lon sol-

e vicin-

The researches and observations of the morning
had detained us till rather a late hour, when, taking
leave of our venerable guide,* we proceeded north-
ward on our journey, pursuing exactly the route of
the retreating British army.

THE LAST ENCAMPMENT.

Six days more of anxiety, fatigue and sufTering,
remained for the British army. They had lost part
of their provision batteaux, when they abandon^
od the hospital, and the rest being exposed to im*
minent danger, the small stock of provisions re-
maining, was landed under a heavy fire, and hauled
up the heights. On these heights, near to the
meadows bordering on the river, they formed a for-
tified camp, and strengthened it by artillery. Most
of the artillery however, was on the plain. Gene-
ral Gates* army soon followed that of Burgoyne, and
stretched along south of the Fishkill, and parallel
to it ; the corps of Colonel Morgan , lay west and
north of the British army, and General Fellows
with three thousand men, was on the east of the Hud-
son, ready to dispute the passage. Fort Edward was

* I must not, however, leave him without mtptioniDg that he
wai wounded in this campaign: he bared hinged breast, and
showed me where a bullet had rak«'d along, superficially, cutting
the outer integuments of the thorax, and carrying with it into the
wound, portions of bis clothes.

'>*

■'i'

t i

is-

•

V /

114 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC.

soon after occupied by the Americans— a fortified
camp was formed on the high ground, between the
Hudson and Lake George, and parties wereistationed
up and down the river; thus, the desperate resolu-
tion which had been taken in General Burgoyne's
camp, of abandoning their artillery and bai^gage,
and (with no more provisions than they could carry
on their backs.) forcing their way by a rapid night
march, and in this manner gaining one of ihe lakes,
was rendered abortive.

Every part of the camp of the royal army was
exposed, not only to cannon balls, but to rifle shot;
not a single place of safety could be foun<J, not a cor-
ner where a council could be held, a dinner taken in
peace, or where the sick, and the wounded, the
females and the children could find an asylum. —
Even the access to the river was rendered very haz-
ardous by the numerojis rifleshot; and the army
was soon distressed for want of water. General
Keidesel, and his lady and children, were often
obliged to drink wine instead of water, and they had
no way to procure the latter, ex<;ept that a soldier's
wife ventured to the river for them, and the Amer-
icans, out of respect to her sex, did not fire at her.

To protect his family from shot. General Keide-
sel, soon after their arrival at Saratoga, directed
them to takSlhelter, m a house not far off. They
had scarcely reached it, before a terrible cannonade

wl
tal
>t.|

ho|
Mc
B-

, I '

■^-

UEBEC.

-a fortified
etween the
re stationed
rate resolu-
Burgoyne*s
d ba<^gage,
ould carry
rapid night
r the lakes,

army was
rifle shot;
, not a cor-
er taken in
inded, the
asylum. —
very haz-
the army
Genera!
ere often
1 they had
I soldier's
le Ainer-
e at her.
il Reide-
directed
They
mnonade

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND <iUEBEC. 115

was directed against that very bouse,^ upon the mis-
taken idea, that all the Generals were assembled in
it. " Alas,'' adds the Baroness, ^' it contained none

* At the time of writing th« account in the text, I was ignorant
that this house was still in existence. It is not only standing, but
it is in perfect preservation, and was evideully, one of the best
houses of that period, in this part of the country. 1 visited it in
May, 1821, and with the aid of its intelligent occupant Mr.
B , found no difficulty in understanding exactly, the inter-
esting narrative of the Baroness Reidesel. The house stands a
•bort distance from the road, on a gentle elevation, directly opposite
tc the mouth of the Battenkill,and one mile north of the Fishkill.
\fter the circumstances of the British army became extreme, this
house, as it was stated to me, was at least, for a time, the head
quarters of Gen'l. Burgoyne. I am not informed whether be still
remained there, when the most distinguished ladies of the army^
with their children, and some wounded officers, sought it as a re-
fuge from our shot, which pervaded every other part of the British
encampment.

The circumstances related in the text, evince that it was but a
poor refuge. The room in which the wounded man lay, whose
remaining limb was taken off by a cannon ball, ii in the north
cast angle of the house, and it will be evident, on casting an eye
ncross the river, that the cannon which did the mischief, must have
^tood on a small eminence, still visible on the eastern bank. The
family were so kind as to permit me to go into the cellar, and it
needs but a glance at the premises, to discern the exact spot,
where the baroness Reidesel and her children, must have sought
a shelter from the cannon balls. The place mu^t have been in the
north east angle of the cellar, where the protection would he most
complete, as it was not possible that the shot should reHch this
plure, although they might pcuibltf have perforated^e floor, and
struck in the opposite corner. Thus it appears, tmit there are
thrte very memorable houses remaining, viz ; this — tli.it in which
Frazer died, and that in the American camp in which Sir Frau*
cis Clark expired.

'i he old church, denoted in Gen'l. Burgoyne*s plans, was still
standing in IB'^^l — Several bullet holes were visible in the north
nUe of it— St stood just south ofthe Fishkill. 1824.

■H

' 1

)

llGTOUn BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC.

but wounded and women ; we were at last obliged tu
resort to the cellar for refuge, and in one corner of
this, I remained the whole day, my children
sleeping on the earth, with their heads in my lap,
and, in the same situation, I passed a sleepless
night. Eleven cannon balls passed through the
house, and we could distinctly hear them roll away.
One poor soldier who was lying on a table, for the
purpose of having his leg amputated, was struck by
a shot which carried away his other; his comrades
bad left him, and when we went to his assistance,
we found him in a corner of the room, into which
be had crept, more dead than alive, scarcely breath-
ing. My reflections on the danger to which my
husband was exposed, now agonized me exceeding-
ly, and the thoughts of my children, and the ne-
cessity of struggling for their preservation, alone
sustained me." A horse of General Reidesel was
in constant readiness for his lady to mount, in case
of a sudden retreat, and three wounded English of-
ficers, who lodged in the same house, had made her
a solemn promise, that they would each of them,
take one of her children upon a horse, and fly with
them, when such a measure should become necessa-
ry She was in a state of wretchedness on account
of her husband, who was in constant danger, exposed
all day to%e shot, and never entering his tent to
sleep, but notwithstanding the great cold, lying down
whole nights by the watch fires. " In this horrid

TOUR BFiTWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 117

situation," they remained six days, till the cessation
of hostilities, which ended in a convention, for the
surrender of the army ; the treaty was signed on
the sixteenth, and the army surrendered the next

daV.* '«':.•-' <■■ * ' ,f -W} .'r. iU-r -^ ^^f" :-<>

On the present occasion, I did not visit the Brit-
ish fortified camp.f When I was here, in 1797, I
examined it particularly. It was then in perfect
preservation, (I speak of the encampment of the
British troops, upon the hill, near the Fishkill,) the
parapet was high, and covered with grass and
shrubs, and the platforms of earth, to support the
field pieces, were still in good condition. No devas-
tation, of any consequence had been committed, ex-
cept by the credulous, who had made numerous ex-
cavations in the breast works, and various parts of
the encampment, for the purpose of discovering
the money, which the officers were supposed to

* Baroness Rcidesers Narrative, in Wilkinson's Memoirs.

tin May 1821,1 again visited (his fortified camp, and found
it as perfect as it was when I saw it nearly twenty three years
before, and almost every particular f>tated in the text was strictly
applicable to it. It is about a mile from the river, aud was cer-
tainly chosen with great good judgment, and had the American
army attempte<I to take it by storm, it would evidently have cost
them very dear. While at Ballston Springs during the late
summer, some gentlemen of our party made an excursion
to this place, and I, learned from them with extreme regret,
that the plough was passing over the fortified camp of General
Burgoyne, and that its fine parapet would soon be levelled, so that
scarcely a trace of it would remain.

■ a

118 TOUR BETWBEN HARTFORD AND ^UEBEO.

haire buried, and abandoned. It is scarcely neces-
sary to add, that they never found any money, for
private property was made sacred by the conven-
tion, and even the public military chest was not
disturbed : the British retained every shilling that it
contained. Under such circumstances, to have bu-
ried their money, would have been almost as great
a folly, as the subsequent search for it. This infat-
uation, has not however gone by, even to this hour,
and still, every year, new pits are excavated by the
insatiable money diggers.*

THE FIELD OF SURRENDER,

i >J

We arrived at this interesting spot, in a very fine
morning; the sun shone with great splendor, upon
the flowing Hudson, and upon the beautiful heights,
and the luxuriant meadows, now smiling in rich ver-
dure, and exhibiting images of tranquillity and love-
liness, very opposite to the horrors of war, which
were once witnessed here.

The Fishkill, swollen by abundant rains, (as it
was on the morning of October 10th, 1777, when
General Burgoyne pafised it with his artillery,) now

* Thid appoftrs to be a very coDimoD popular delusion ; in muny
places on the Hudson, and about the lakes, where arnaios lia.l
lain, or moved, we found money-pit:* dug ; and in one place,
they told us, that a man bought of a poor widow, ''« right of dig-
ging in her groaud for the hidden treasure. '

.^.

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 119

poured a turbid torrent along its narrow channel,
and roaring down the declivity of the hills, hasten-
ed to mingle its waters with those of the Hudson.
It was upon the banks of the Fishkill, that the
British army surrendered. We passed the ground,
where stood the tent of General Gates, and where
he received General Burgoyne, and the principal
officers of his army. General Wilkinson's account
of this interview is interesting : " Early in the morn-
ing of the 17th, I visited General Burgoyne in his
camp, and accompanied him to the ground, where
his army was to lay down their arms, from whence
we rode to the Bank of the Hudson river, which
he surveyed with attention, and asked me whether
it was not fordable. ' Certainly, Sir ; but do you
observe the people on the opposite shore f ' * Yes,
(replied he,) I have seen them too long.' He then
proposed to be introduced to General Gates, and
we crossed the Fishkill, and proceeded to head
quarters, General Burgoyne in front, with his adju-
tant General Kingston, and his aids de camp Cap-
tain lord Petersham, and Lieutenant Wilford behind
him ; then followed Major General Phillips, the
Baron Reidesel, and the other General officers, and
their suites, according to rank. General Gates, ad-
vised of Burgoyne's approach, met him at the head
of his camp, Burgoyne in a rich royal uniform, and
Gates in a plain blue frock ; when they had ap-
proached nearly within swords' length, they reined
up, and halted, I then named the gentlemen, and

V f

120 TOUR BETWEEN UAIITFORD AND QUEBEC.

i) '^

I '

General Burgoyne, raising his bat most gracefully,
said * The fortune of war, General Gates, has mad«
me your prisoner ;* to which the conqueror, return-
ing a courtly salute, promptly replied, ' I shall al-
ways be ready to bear testimony, that it has not
been through any fault of your excellency.' Major
General Phillips then advanced, and he, and Gene-
ral Gates saluted, and shook hands with the famili-
arity of old acquaintances. The Baron Reide-
sel, and the other officers, were introduced in t^eir
turn."

We passed the ruins of General Schuyler's house,
which are still conspicuous, and hastened to the field
where the British troops grounded their arms. Al-
though, in 1797, I paced it over with juvenile en-
thusiasm,* I felt scarcely less interested on the
present occasion, and again walked over the whole
tract. It is a beautiful meadow, situated at the in-
tersection of the Fishkill, with the Hudson, and north
of the former. There is nothing now to distinguish
the spot, except the ruins of old Fort Hardy, built
during the French wars, and the deeply interesting
historical associations which will cause this place to
be memorable to the latest generation. Thousands
and thousands yet unborn, will visit Saratoga, with
feelings of the deepest interest, and it will not be
forgotten till Thermopylae, and Marathon, and Ban-
nockburn and Waterloo, shall cease to be remem-

♦ In company with the Uoa. John Elliott, now a Senator from
Georgia, and John VVynn, £»<!. from the yAtue state.

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND (QUEBEC. 121

bered. There it will be said, were the last en-
trenchments of a proud invading army ; on that spot
stood their formidable park of artillery — and here,
on this now peaceful meadow, they piled their arms !
their arms no longer terrible, but now converted
into a glorious trophy of victory !

1»
1

REFLECTIONS AND REMARKS.

I have adverted but little to the sufferings of the
American army, because but little, comparatively, is
known of what they individually endured. Except-
ing the inevitable casualties of battle, they must have
suffered much less than their enemies; for they soon
ceased to be the flying, and became the attacking
and triumphant party. Colonels Colburn, Adams,
Francis and many other brave officers and men,
gave up their lives, as the price of their country's
liberty, and very many carried away with them the
scars produced by honourable wounds. The brave-
ry of the American army was fully acknowledged by
their adversaries. - ^ ■

"At all times," said Lord Balcarras, *'when I
was opposed to the rebels, they fought with great
courage and obstinacy." " We were taught by ex-
perience, that neither their attacks nor resistance
was to be despised." Speaking of the retreat of the
Americans, from Ticonderoga, and of their behav-
iour at the battle of Hubberton,Lord Balcarras addss :

\
1

' w

J '■ h

122 TOUR BLTWEEN HARTFORD AND iH EHEC.

" Circumstanced as the enemy were, as an army
very hard pressed, in their reirer.t, lliry certainly h»;-
haved with great gallantry ;" of the attack on the
lines, on the evening of the 7th of October, he says :
"The lines were attacked, and with as much fury as
the fire of small arms can admit." ^^ '' '•

Lord Balcarras had said, that he never knew the
Americans to defend their entrenchments, but ad-
ded : "The reason why they did not defend their en-
trenchments was, that they always marched out of
them and attacked us." Captain Money, in an-
swer to the question, whether on the/1 9th of Sep-
tember, the Americans disputed the'' field with ob-
stinacy, answered, "they did, an'd the fire was
much hotter than I ever knew it any where, except
at (he cnfiair of Fort Anne," and speaking of the bat-
tle of October 7ih, and of the moment when the
Americans, with nothing but small arms, were
marching up to the British artillery, he adds : " 1
was very much astonished, to hear the shot from
the enemy, fly so thick, after our cannonade had
lasted a quarter of an hour." General Burgoyne
gives it as his opinion, that as rangers, " perhaps
there are few better in the world, than the corps of
Virginia riflemen which acted under Colonel Mor-
gan.'' He says, speaking of the battle of September
19th, that, "few actions have been characterised by
more obstinacy, in attack or defence. The British
bayonet was repeatedly tried inefToclually ."

I (

EHEC.

an army
rtainly b».'-
ck on tlje
[•jhe says :
ich fury as
A <;■'£.'

knew the
but ad-
d their en-
ed out of
iy, in an-
1 of Sep-

vviih ob-

fire was
e, except
)f the bci-
when tho
ms, were
adds : " I
shot from
made had
Burgoyne
' perhaps

corps of
nel Mor-
eptembcr
terised by
e British

TOL'R BKTWEEN' HARTFORD AN'D QULBE' . -J

Remarking upon the battle of the 7il) of OcloL^ r,
he observes : "If there he any persons who con-
tinue to doubt that the Americans possess the q'ud'
lly and facullj of fighting, call it by whatever term
they please, they are of a prejudice, that it would
be very absurd longer to contend with ;" he says,
that in this action the British troops "retreated hard
pressed, but in good order,'' and that "the troops
had scarcely entered the camp, when it was storm-
ed with great fury, the enemy rushing to the
lines, under a severe fire of grape shot and small

arms

In a private letter, addressed to Lord George
Germain, after the surrender, he says, " I should
now hold myself unjustihable, if I did not confide
to your liordship, my opinion, upon a near inspec-
tion of the rebel troops. The standing corps thtt
I have seen, are disciplined. I do not hazard the
terra, but apply it to the great fundamental points
of military institution, sobriety, subordination, regu-
larity and courage." *

It is very gratifying to every real American to
find, that for so great a prize, his countrymen, (their
enemies themselves being judges,) .contended so
nobly, and that their conduct for bravery, skill and
humanity, will stand the scrutiny of all future ages.

From the enemy it becomes us not to withhold
the commendation that is justly due; all that skill
and valour could effect, they accomplished, and
they were overwhelmed at last by complicated dis-

li I

. . J^* ■ ../- -

124 TOUR BBTWEEW HARTFORD AIfI> QUEBEC.

.' r

-?'* \ I,

I Vi

'If J ;y

tresses, and by very superior numbers, amounting
at the time of the surrender, probably, to three for
one, although the disparity was much less, in the
two great battles.

The vaunting proclamation of General Burgoyne,
at the commencement of the campaign ; some of
his boasting letters, written during the progress of
it, and his devastation of private property reflect no
honour on his memory. But, in general, he ap-
pears to have been a humane and honourable man,
a scholar and a gentleman, a brave soldier and an
able commander. Some of his sentiments have a
higher moral tone than is common with men of his
profession, and have probably procured for him
more respect, than all his battles. Speaking of the
battle of the 7th, he says, '*In the course of the ac-
tion, a shot had passed through my hat, and anoth-
er had torn my waistcoat. I should be sorry to be
thought, at any time, insensible to the protecting
hand of Providence ; but 1 ever, more particularly
considered (and I hope not superstitiously) a sol-
dier's hair breadth escapes as incentives to duty, a
marked renewal of the trust of being, for the pur-
poses of a public station : and under that reflection,
to lose our fortitude, by giving way to our affec-
tions ; to be divested by any possible self-emotion
from meeting a present exigency, with our best fac-
ulties, were at once dishonour and impiety.'*

Thus have I adverted, I hope not with too
much particularity, to some of the leading cir-

B£C.

mounting
three for
s, in the

urgoyne,
some of
5gres3 of
eflect no

he ap-
Lble man,
r and an
s have a
en of his

for him
ig of the
if the ac-
d anoth-
ry to be
rotectiog
licularly
a sol-
> duty, a
he pur-
tflection,
r affec-
emotion
)est fac-

i^ith too

ing cir-

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND Q,UEBEC. 125

cumstances of the greatest military event which has
over occurred in America ; but compared with the
whole extent and diversity of that campaign, the
above notices, however extended, are few and brief.
\ confess, I have reviewed them with a very deep
interest, and have been willing to hear some of the
distinguished actors speak in their own language.—
Should the notice of these great events tend, in any
instance, to quench the odious fires of party, and to
rekindle those of genuine patriotism — should it re-
vive in any one, a veneration for the virtues of
those men who faced death, in every form, regard-
less of their own lives, and bent only on securing to
posterity, the precious blessings, which we now en-
joy ; and above all, should we thus be led to cher-
ish a higher sense of gratitude to heaven, for our un-
exampled privileges, and to use them more temper-
ately and wisely, the time occupied in this sketch,
will not have been spent in vain. History pre-
sents no struggle for liberty which has in it more
of the moral sublime than that of the American re-
volution. It has been, of late years, too much
forgotten, in the sharp contentions of party, and
he who endeavours to withdraw the public mind
from those debasing conflicts, and to fix it on the
grandeur of that great epoch — which, magnificent
in itself, begins now, to wear the solemn livery of an,"
tiqiiity, as it is viewed through the deepening twilight
of half a century, certainly performs a meritori-
ous service, and can scarcely need a justification.

126 TOUR IiE'f^VEEN HARTFORD AND (^UKIJEC.

The generation that sustained the coRflict, is now al-
most passed away ; a few hoary heads remain,
seamed with honourable scars — a few experienced
guides can still attend us to the fields of carnage, and
point out the places where they and their compan-
ions fought and bled, and where sleep the bones of
the slain. But these men will soon be gone ; tradi-
tion and history, will, however, continue to recite
their deeds, and the latest generations will be taught
to venerate the defenders of our liberties — to visit
the battle-grounds, which were moistened with their
blood, and to thank the mighty God of battles, that
the arduous conflict, terminated in the entire estab-
lishment of the liberties of this country.

STILLWATER TO SANDY HILL.

This ride of twenty-two miles we took before din-
ner. After viewing the field of surrender, which is
seven miles above Stillwater, and thirty-two above
Albany,we passed on two miles farther, to the bridge,
at Fort Miller, where we crossed to the eastern side
of the Hudson.

On coming near the head waters of this river, we
begin to tread on ground famous, not only in the
war of the revolution, but, in those numerous and
bloody campaigns, of a still earlier date, in which
the French and the savages carried fire and slaugh-
ter, into the vast frontier of the northern English

!i:eo.

is now al-

remain,

:perienc€d

nage, and

compan-

bones of

le ; tradi-

to recite

be taught

—to visit

ivith their

ttles, that

ire estab-

ifore din-
which is
ro above
le bridge,
Item side

river, we
ly in the
ous and
in which
I slaugh-
En^lish

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFCRD AND i^VEBEG. 127

Colonies. The contests then sustained, were dis-
tinguished by immense sacrifices, efforts and sufTer-
ings on the part of the English Colonies ; sacrifices,
efforts and sufferings, which, notwithstanding the
great aids, occasionally received from the mother
country, scarcely admitted, for a long course of
years, of any serious and permanent intermission.
Fort Miller was one of the posts established in those
wars, and formed a link in the chain, which con-
nected the upper waters of the Hudson with those
of the lakes George and Champlain, and of course,
with Canada. Fort Miller, is completely levelled,
and I know not of any particular event, of signal
importance, connected with its history, except that
here, or a little way below, General Burgoyne,
when proceeding to Stillwater, on the 13th and 14th
of September, 1777, passed most of his army over
the Hudson.

From this place we pursued our journey, along
the left bank of the river, to Fort Edward, and San-
dy Hill.

In the whole distance, from Albany to the latter
place, (nearly fifty miles,) there is, on the immc
diate border of the river, scarcely a hill, even of
moderate elevation, and the scenery is extremely
similar to that which I hare already described.

The river, sprinkled with islands, flows through
beautiful meadows, and appears, in many places,
smooth and glassy as a mirror, and its motion is
scarcely perceptible, either to sight or hearing ;

1*1

P ! J

128 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFOHD AND HUEJJEC.

I.. I

again, it is agitated, and with ripples and waves, h
urged over a shallow and rocky bottom, or, dashes
rapidly, down a more sudden and more rocky de-
clivity ; but, in every variety of surface, it forms al-
ways, a pleasing and interesting object.

I /■:

u ^

\i I)

\»

GEOLOGY. '

It was not in my power, to make many very pre*
eise observations on the nature of the hills, by which
the meadows are bounded. On Bemus' heights,
the soil and forest hid almost every rock from
view ; the solitary projections were, however, gen-
erally slaty, like the rocks along the river, which,
with very few exceptions, were slate — of the trans-
ition class, (as I suppose ;) the direction of the stra-
ta was, more generally, like that of the other great
rock formations of the north : that is, somewhat to
the east of north, and to the west of south ; their dip
appeared extremely variable, but T believe they
were never flat, nor vertical, and the structure of the
strata was often, extremely confused and tortuous.*

* The obaervatiuns of Prof. Amos Eaton, (Index to the Geology
of the Northern Sttttes, second edition,) of Dr. William Meade,
(Experimentnl Enquiry, Sic.) and of Dr. John H. Steel, (Analysis
of the Mineral waters of Sar<ito*a, ico.) may be advantageously
consulted as to the geology of the regions bordering on the upper
waters of the HucUon.

■w

TOUR BETWEEN llAPTFORD AND (ITJEBEC. 129

FORT EDWARD. ^

At this Fort, we first observed the canal, which
is destined to connect the head waters of Lake
Champlain with those of the Hudson. It is now on
the point of being united with this river, and they
are constructing the walls of the Canal of a very
handsome hewn stone : it is obtained, as I am in-
formed, near Fort Anne, and presents to the eye,
aided by a magnifier, very minute plates and veins,
which feebly cfTervesce with acids, and appear to
enclose an extremely fine, black mineral, resem-
bling hornblende ; the stone is impressed by steel,
and feebly fires with it ; is it a peculiar kind of cal-
careous sand stone f It is of a dark hue, and is
shaped into handsome blocks, by the tools of the
workmen. I was gratified to see such firm and
massy walls constructed of this stone ; indeed, in
point of solidity and beauty, they would do honour
to the modern wet docks of Great Britain.

It is intended to have a lock at this place, where
there is a considerable descent into the Hudson.

There is a village at Fort Edward, bearing the
same name, and I ought to have remarked that there
are villages, at Stillwater, Saratoga and Fort Mil-
ler ; but there is nothing particularly interesting in
any of them. Fort Edward, however, is memora-
ble, on account of its former importance ; It is situa-
ted near the great bend of the Hudson, and form-
ed the immediate connexion with Lake George,

.^'

\ '

130 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND <^UEB£C.

which is sixteen miles, and with Lake Champlain,
which is twenty-two miles distant. It was origin-
ally only an entrenched camp, and was constructed
by General Lyman ; but as its situation was im«
portant, it was soon converted into a regular Fort.
Its walls, built of earth, were raised thirty feet high,
with ditches corresponding in depth and width, and
it was defended by cannon. It stands on the brink
of the Hudson, and the embankment was continued
along the river.

The walls appear to be, in some places, still
twenty feet high, notwithstanding what time and
the plough have done to reduce them ; for the in-
ttrior of the Fort, and the parapet are now in some
places, planted with potatoes.

I know not that this Fort was ever beseiged or
stormed, although it was often threatened. In the
last French war, it was an important station, and in
General Burgoyne's campaign, it formed the medi-
um of communication with Lake George, whence
the provisions were brought forward for the use of
the British army, which was detained on this ac-
count, at and near Fort Edward, for six weeks, by
which means, they lost the best part of the season
for military operations — as they moved down the
river, they relinquished the connexion witli Fort
Edward and Lake George, and were never able to
recover it.

II.

implain,
origiti-
structed
vas im-
ir Fort.
tet high,
cith, and
he brink
ontinued

ces, stiil

ime and

r the in-

in some

seiged or

In the

I, and in

ye medi-

whence

le use of

I this ac-

eeks. by

season

]own the

itli Fort

able to

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFOIIO AND (QUEBEC* 131

MURDER OF MISS McCREA.

The Story of this unfortunate young lady is well
known, nor should I mention it now, but for the fact,
that the place of her murder was pointed out to us,
near Fort Edward.

We saw, and conversed with a person, who was
acquainted with her, and with her family ; they re-
sided in the village of Fort Edward.

It seems she was betrothed to a Mr. Jones, an
American refugee, who was with Burgoyne's army,
and being anxious to obtain possession of his expect-
ed bride, he dispatched a party of Indians tojsscort
her to the British army. Where were his affection
and bis gallantry, that he did not go himself, or at
least that he did not accompany his savage emissa-
ries!

Sorely against the wishes and remonstrances of
her friends, she committed herself to the care of
these fiends ; — strange infatuation in her lover, to
solicit such a confidence — stranger presumption in
her, to yield to his wishes ; what treatment had she
not a right to expect from such guardians !

The party set forward, and she on horseback ;
they had proceeded, not more than half a mile from
Fort Edward, when they arrived dt a spring, and
halted to drink. The impatient lover had, in the
mean time, dispatched a second party of Indians,
on the same errand ; they came, at the unfortunate

^ h-

'Sl

\ n

■■■ '\^

» ;

i\ \

132 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC.

moment, to the same spring, and a collision imme-
diately ensued, as to the promised reward.^

Both parties were now attacked, by the whites,
and at the end of the conflict, the unhappy young
woman was found tomahawked, scalped and (as is
said) tied fast to a pine tree just by the spring.
Tradition reports, that the Indians divided the scalp,
and that each party carried half of it to the agonized
lover.

This beautiful spring, which still flows limpid
and cool, from a bank near the road side, and this
fatal tree we saw. The tree, which is a large and
ancient pine, ''fit for the mast of some tall ammiraP'
is wounded, in many places, by the balls of the
whites, fired at the Indians ; they have been dug out
as far as they could be reached, but others still re-
main in this ancient tree, which seems a striking em-
blem, of wounded innocence, and the trunk, twist-
ed off at a considerable elevation, by some violent
wind, that has left only a few mutilated branches, is
a happy, although painful memorial of the fate of
JaneMcCrea.f

Her name is inscribed on the tree, with the date
1777, and no traveller passes this spot, without spend-

• Which is said to have been a barrel of rum.

t General Hoyt of DeerfielJ, informs me, that the received ac-
counts of the circumstances attending the murder of Miss MnCrea
are in some particulars incorrect ; he states, that he has ascer-
tained that she was not murdered at this spring, 'but in the road,
at a little distance from it, and that she was on foot.

EBEC.

fOUtt BETWEEN HARTFORD AND qiTEnEC. 133

i^" . n

on imme-

le whites,
py young
and (as is
he spring.
1 the scalp,
e agonized

iws limpid
e, and this
large and
1 ammiraP'
alls of the
len dug out
ers still re-
triking em-
unk, twist-
>me violent
ranches, is
he fate of

h the date
loutspend-

e received ac-

MiB9 MoCrea

he has ascer-

it in the roail,

ing a plaintive moment in contemplating the untime-
ly fate of youth and loveliness. *

The murder of Miss M cCrea, (a deed of such
atrocity and cruelty as scarcely to admit of aggrava-
tion,) occurring as it did, at the moment when Gen-
eral Burgoyne, whose army was then at Fort
Anne, was bringing with him to the invasion of the
American States, hordes of savages, ** those hell-
hounds of war,"*^ whose known and established
mode of warfare, were those of promiscuous massa-
cre,f electrified the whole co.itinent, and indeed,
the civilized world, producing an universal burst of
horror and indignation. General Gates did not fail
to profit by the circumstance, and in a severe, but
loo personal remonstrance, which he addressed to

* Lord Chatham.

t It is true that General Burgoyne, in hi? celebrated speech to
the Indians, at the river Boquet, at the opening of the campaign,
(June 24, 1777,) reprobated such proceedings, and bound the sav-
ages, (whom however he called "brothers" and "friends,") down
to European rules of warfare ; but, who would expect, that a fine
«peechand a few rhetorical flourishes, even if sanctioned by re-
wards and punishments in prospect, would restrain the habitual, ]
had almost said, the innalt ferocity of an American barbarian. All
that hapt>ened, might therefore have been anticipated, and had
General Burgoyne's army continued to be suecessful, the savages,
instead of deserting him, as they did, in (he hour "of his utmost
need," would h:\ve spread murder and desolation every where,
m spite of speeches, rules or remonstrances.

The French, the English and the Americans, are however, all
chargeable with a common guilt, differing only in degree, in em-
ploying (he savages, in the various wars on this continent.

12*

V fl

.!i

I' i

^'V.,^-

•:.:jr

134 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBECr

h- > f.

General Burgoync, charged him with the guilt of
the murder, and with that of many other similar
atrocities. His real guilt, or that of his government,
was, in employing the savages at all in the war; in
other respects he appears to have had no concern
with the transaction ; in his reply to General Gates,
he thus vindicates himself: " In regard to Miss
McCrea, her fall wanted not the tragic display you
have labored to give it, to make it as sincerely la-
mented and abhorred by me, as it can be by the
tenderest of her friends. The fact was no premedi-
tated barbarity. On the contrary, two chiefs, who
had brought her off, for the purpose of security,
not of violence to her person, disputed which
should be her guard, and in a fit of savage passion,
in one from whose hands she was snatched, the un-
happy woman became the victim. Upon the first
intelligence of this event, I obliged the Indians to
deliver the murderer into my hands, and though,
to have punished him by our laws, or principles of
justice, would have been perhaps unprecedented,
he certainly should have suffered an ignominious
death, had I not been convinced by my circumstan-
ces and observation, beyond the possibility of a
doubt, that a pardon under the terms which I pre-
sented, and they accepted, would be more effica-
cious than an execution, to prevent similar mis-
chiefs."*

♦Feb. 7, 1824.— The followiDg letters, which have recently
appeared in the public prints, are worthy of beiD<; preserved in
this place ; —

BEC.

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 13c*

e guilt of
:r similar
rernment,
e war; in
) concern
ral Gates,

to Miss
splay you
cerely la-
be by the
premedi-
liefs, who

security,
2d which
;e passion,
d, the un-
n the first
Indians to
id though,
inciples of
cedented,
nominious
rcumstan-
)ility of a
ich I pre-
ore effica-
[nilar mis-

ave recently
preserved in

SANDY HILL, AND THE MASSACRE THERE.

Sandy Hill* " is delightfully situated just above
Baker's Falls— it contains a woollen manufactory,

From the Mohawk (JV. Y.) Herald.

MURDER OF MISS McCREA.

Florida, Dec. 27, 1823.

Dear 5ir— There was no event during our revolutionary struggle
with Great Britain, that excited more sympathy than the tragical
fate of Jane McCrea. The time, and every circumstance attending
that transactioOfWas peculiarly fitted to harrow up the minds of men
to resistance and revenge. Wherever the story was told, (and it
was told throughout the continent with the rapidity of lightning,)
every bosom was thrilled as by an electric shock, and beat in unison.
Young as I then was, the horrors of the scene impressed my mind so
deeply, that forty-six years have in no part effaced it. But the
subsequent writers of that period of our history have related the
story very differently, and some have spelled her name errone-
ously.

In order to correct in season every mistake, I lately requested
Colonel M'cCrea, of Saratoga, to state all the facts, as they were
known and believed in the family. This gentleman was nephew
to Jane McCrea, and is distinguished for candor and probity ; and
is perhaps better able to tell the story than any other living wit-
ness. The following is an extract from his letter. I hope you
will think with me that it ought to be preserved, and give it a
place in the Herald. I am, &c.

S. Reynolds.

Ballbton, JvhY 1st, 1823.
Sir — It is with no small degree of diffidence I undertake to
''.ommit to paper that which is known in our family concerning
the late Jane McCrea; and in yielding to this, I do it solely with
a view of complying with yeur request of transmitting to poster-
ity something more of her history than ia at present extant,

* Worcester's Gazetteer.

13G TOUn BETWEEN HARTFORO AND q,llEBf:c.

>il

{

,Sl •

^ 'i

a court house, a bank, an academy for young ladies,
and about eighty houses." This pretty and flour-
Miss Jaae McCrea, who was killed by the ladians at Fort Ed-
ward, in July, 1777, was the second daug^hter of the Key. James
McCrea, formerly pastor of a congregation in Lamington, New-
Jersey, but died previous to the revolution. His eldest son. Col.
John McCrea, had become a resident of Albany before his father^s
death, and his sister Jane directly afterwards repaired to his
house, and resided with him. In the year] seventy-three, they
removed to that part of this county now known by the name of
Northumberland, on the west side of the Hudson river, about
three miles north of Fort Miller Falls, and he was here when his
sister was killed. This was on Suaday morning, and it was eve-
ning before he received the fatal newa. Early the next day, he
sent his family to Albany, and repaired himself to the American
camp, where he found his sister's corpse, shockingly mangled.—
Two of the neighboring women, whom he had brought with him,
washed and dressed her remains, and he had her interred with
one Lieutenant Van Veehten, three miles south of Fort Edward.
She was twenty-three years of age, of an amiable and virtuous
character, and highly esteemed by all her acquaintance. She
was at this time on a visit to a family in the neighborhood of
Fort Edward. A Mrs. McNeil had persuaded her to remain till
the Monday following. Here she was concealed in the cellar,
when the Indians arrived, who, tfter ransacking the house, dis-
covered her retreat, and drew her out by ths hair, and placing
her on a horse, proceeded on the road towards Sandy Hill. They
had gone but a short distance, when they met another party of
Indians, returning from Argyle, where they had killed the family
of Mr. Bains. This party disapproved of taking Miss McCrea to
the British camp, and one of them struck her with a tomahawk,
and tore off her scalp.

It was said, and generally believed, that she was engaged in
marriage to Captain David Jones, of the British army. Captain
Jonea survived her only a few years, and died, as was thought,
with grief. I am. Sir, your most obedient servant, Sec.

James McCrea.
Dr. S. Retnolds.

\='

:bec.

ng ladies,
ind floiir-

at Fort Ed-
Rev. James
igtoD, New-
est son, Col.
his father's
aired to his
three, they
the name of
•iver, about
re when his
it was ere-
ext daj, he
e American
mangled.—
It with him,
terred with
)rt Kdward.
nu virtuous
tance. She
hborhood of
remain till
the cellar,
house, dis-
and placing
Hill. They
er party of
the family
McCrea to
tomahawk,

engaged in
. Captain
18 thought,
ice.
FcChea.

TOUR BETVTEKN HARTFORD AND <IUEBEC. 137

iiihing village is regularly laid out, and composed of
neat and handsome houses, many of which surround
a beautiful central green. Its population is from
five hundred to six hundred. The village of Sandy
Hill is of recent origin, and the site on which it
stands was formerly the scene of Indian barbari-
ties.

From Mr. H. a very respectable inhabitant, I
learned the following singular piece of history.

Old Mr. Schoonhoven, recently living in this
vicinity, and probably still surviving, although at
the great age of^more than four score, informed
Mr. H. that during the last French war, he, and
six or seven other Americans coming through the
wilderness, from Fort William Henry, at the head
of Lake George, to Sandy Hill, bad the misfortune
to ^e taken prisoners by a party of the savages.
They were conducted to the spot which is now the
central green of Sandy Hill, and ordered to sit
down in a row, upon a log. Mr. Schoonhove*
pointed out to Mr. H. the exact place where the
log lay ; it was nearly in front of the house where
we dined. The Indians then began, very deliber-
ately, to tomahawk their victims, commencing at
one end of the log, and splitting the skulls of their
prisoners, in regular succession ; while the survi-
vors, compelled to sit still, and to witness the awful
fate of their companions, awaited their own, in un-
utterable horror. Mr. Schoonhoven was the last
but one, upon the end of the log opposite to where

' if

fj'

i II

*^ fll

^m 1

!l'

• ..^«t^» -, *»

•■j»t0^-. ^,

138 TOUR BETWEEN UARTFOUD AND ^17£BEC.

the massacre commenced ; the work of death had
already proceeded to him, and the lifted tomahawk
Was ready to descend, when a chief gave a signal to
stop the butchery. Then approaching Mr. Schoon-
hoven, he mildly said, '* do you not remember that
(at such a time) when your young men were danc-
ing, poor Indians came, and wanted to dance too ;
your young men said " no ! — Indians shall not dance
with us;" but you (for it seems, this chief had re-
cognized his features only in the critical moment,)
you said, Indians shall dance — now 1 will show you
that Indians can remember kindness." This chance
recollection (providential , we had better call it,)
saved the life of Mr. Schoonhoven, and of the
other survivor.

Strange mixture of gener6«lty aq4 cruelty ! For
a triiiing affront, they cherished and glutted ven-
geance, fell as that of infernals, without measure of
retribution, or discrimination of objects ; for a favor
equally trifling, they manifested magnanimity, ex-
ceeding all correspondence to the benefit, and ca-
pable of arresting the stroke of death, even when
falling with the rapidity of lightning !*

* Considering the moral and intellectual light of the American
savages, we may, however, well ask whether this act, atrocious
as it is, manifests more that is abhorrent to every humane — every
just — every moral— every christian, nay, to every truly honorahU
feeling, than the lamentable practice of duelling, that dreadful na-
tional sin of this country; that foul stain on our character as a
moral and religious people; that sin which aseertaim no man's
courage, but demorutrably proves that man's cowardice, who dares

SEC.

!ath had
mahawk
signal to
Schoon-
iber that
re danc*
nee too ;
ot dance
'had re-
loment,)
low you
i chance
call it,)
1 of the

|r ! For
ted ven-
^asure of
r a favor
ity, ex-
and ca-
sn when

American
atrocious
ne — every
f honorable.
'eadful na-
acter as a
no man's
wbodarea

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 13^
ADDITIONAL REMARKS ON SANDY HILL.

Mr. H-

, one of the earliest inhabitants

of Sandy Hill, canie to this place at the close
of the war of the Revolution, and erected the
first framed building. At that time, the grounds
now occupied as a public green, was cover-
ed by a grove of shrub oaks. Sandy Hill is in the
town of Queensbury — but is an incorporated village,
exhibiting a great appearance of neatness and com-
fort. It is said to be very healthy. I observed the
citizens busied in sweeping their public green with
brooms, and in cleaning their streets — a commend-
able example for other villages; it is done here by a
kind of common law.

The houses are situated principally on the main
street, but there are some scattered buildings.

There was no house for public worship when I
was there last, (in May 1821 ;) the school-house
was used for this purpose. The view from this
building is said to be very fine.

The village affords good accommodations for trav-
ellers. Beard's house is remarkable for neatness,
order, good fare, and the most obliging manners.

not encounter the opinions of fighting men, but prefers the viola-
tion of the most sacred laws both of God and uAir ; that sin
which sends to a premature grene those who have defended tht
nation by their valor, and honored it by their councils and their
wisdom ; that sin, for whose victims thousands of American hearts
are now bleeding, and for which all good men mourn, and angels
weep!!

(

MO TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC.

^''.l *

Baker^s Falls, contiguous to this village, wiU
well repay the traveller for a short walk. He will
see them to the best advantage by crossing the
bridge, and descending in the direction of the
stream, till he is one hundred or one hundred and
fifty yards below the falls ; the best station is near
the crystallizing house of a gunpowder manufactory,
which is established here, oh the high bank of the
river; there are various good points of view for a
quarter of a mile below. The entire fall is seventy-
eight feet ; but it takes place at several leaps, and
forms a succession of violent, tumultuous rapids,
not inferior in grandeur to Glen's Falls, and supe-
rior to them in picturesque effect; these falls are
really quite as well worth visiting as the more cele>
brated cataract a few miles above.

From the place where Baker's Falls are seen to
the best advantage, the village of Sandy Hill forms
a fine part of the back ground, being seen at the dis-
tance of half a mile, on the high opposite bank.

There is a fine rapid above the falls, and below
the bridge. The water of the river is turned to
good account by a mill-dam, which diverts a portion
of the flood into artificial channels ; thus creating a
great water power for the working of mills on both
sides of the river.

The transition and secondary formations are said
to form a junction at this place. Slaty rocks com-
pose the banks of the river, and are seen lying be-
neath the water ; and where the latter is tranquil, a

•V---?

->- — ■K^

:bec.

TOTTR between HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. HI

age, wiU
He will
ssing the
1 of the
idred and
m is near
tufactory,
ak of the
lew for a
! seventy-

saps,

and

IS rapids,
and supe-
; falls are
lore cele-

re seen to
lill forms
at the dis'
bank,
ind below
turned to
I a portion
creating a
Is on both

IS are said
}cks corn-
lying be-
tranquil, a

handsome picture is presented by the veins of white
calcareous spar, which in great numbers, intersect
the black slate rocks, and give them a tesselated
appearance, rendered more brilliant by the refrac-
tive effect of the water, through which they are
seen. The rocks on the shores above the bridge,
where they are not covered by water, present a sim-
ilar appearance. The frowning precipices which
form the banks of the river — the mill-dams — the
bridge, and the steep road, by which it is approach-
ed from the village — readily suggest to an observer,
the possibility of fatal accidents. It seems they
have been of too frequent occurrence. Several
persons have been precipitated over the falls, en-
countering instant death. Two men were in a boat
above the mill-dam, and venturing a little too far,
were drawn irretrievably into the rapid waters; as
the boat passed over the mill-dam, one of the men
caught upon it, and stood braced, till a plank, secu-
red by a rope, was floated down to him, and he was
thus extricated from his danger — but his companion
went over the dam, and was lost. Another man in
a boat was impelled into the current, and finding his
case hopeless, calmly shipped his oars, and submit-
ted to his fate; a m»n at the bridge, about three years
ago, was standing upon a floating timber, and in the
act of c'lUing it, when it suddenly parted and let him
into the water, which soon hurried him to his death ;
the dead bodies were found down at Fort Edward,
a few miles below. A man in a dark night walked

15*

': \*

■ i 1

143 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND ^UEBEt.

ofTthe high bank at the bridge, on the eastern side,
and fell seventy-five feet ; and a Frenchman, about
the same time, drove a waggon and horses over
this precipice ; it is scarcely necessary to say that
they all perished.

EXCURSION TO LAKE GEORGE.

This interesting region lay to the left of our pro-
posed route to Lake Champlain; to visit it would
demand nearly twenty miles of additional travelling,
through very bad roads; Mr. W. was already famil-
iar with the scene; I therefore took an extra con-
veyance, with which 1 was furnished at Sandy Hill,
by the civility of Mr. II. who did me the favor to
accompany me on the excursion, (for there was no
public vehicle,) and leaving Mr. VV. to pursue his
journey to Fort Anne, where I agreed to meet him,
I parted with him four miles above Sandy Hill, at
Glenn's Falls.

GLENN'S FALLS.

We stopped for a f«w moments at this celebrated
place. It is not possible that so large a river as the
Hudson is, even here, at more than two hundred
miles from its mouth, should be precipitated over

\Et,

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AVD QUEBEC. 143

ern side,

m, about

ses over

say that

our pro-
it would
avelling,
iy famil-
ctra con-
[jdy Hill,
favor to
2 was no
irsue his
eet him,
Hill, at

lebrateU
cr as the
hundred
ted over

any declivity, however moderate, without a degree
of grandeur. Even the various rapids which we
had passed above Albany, and still more, the faJls
at Fort Miller Bridge, and Baker's Falls, at Sandy
Hill, had powerfully arrested our attention, and
prepared us for the magnificent spectacle now be-
fore us. I regretted that I could not, more at leisure,
investigate the geology of this pass, both for its own
sake, and for its connexion with this fine piece of
scenery.

The basis of the country here is a black lime-
stone,* compact, but presenting spots that are crys-
tallized, and interspersed, here and there, with the
organized remains of animals, entombed, in ages
pa?t, > (his mausoleum. The strata are perfectly
flat, i ' <., \ i piled upon one another, with the utmost
regularity, so that a section, perpendicular to the
strata, presents almost the exact arrangement of
hewn stones in a building. Such a section has been
made by the Hudson, through these calcareous
strata ; not however all at once ; a number of lay-
ers are removed, either through a part of the width
of the river, or through the whole of it; and, a few
feet further down the stseam, the layers, next
below are removed; and thus, by stairs, or rather

* Satin spar it found in thin, delicate, but extensive vcin^,
principally in the fallen rocks below the bridge ; (generally it is
of a brilliant white, but sometimes it is black, Although still re-
taining its fibrous structure. Cryilah of Hittersjtuth^ well defi-
tted, and glistening in black limestone, occur at the »amc plncc. —
The s»tiD »par was first observed by Mr. H, K. 13. Morse.

r.^

144 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC.

by broad platforms, not however without frequent
irregularities, and deep channels cut by the water
in the direction of the river, the way is prepared
for this fine cataract.

Down these platforms, and through these chan-
nels, the Hudson, when the river is full, indignantly
rushes, in one broad expanse ; now, in several sub-
ordinate rivers, thundering and foaming among the
black rocks, and at last dashing their conflicting
waters into one tumultuous raging torrent, white
as the ridge of the tempest wave, shrouded with
spray, and adorned with the hues of the rainbow.
Such is the view from the bridge immediately at the
foot of the falls, and it is finely contrasted with the
solemn grandeur of the sable ledges below, which
tower to a great height above the stream.

I do not know the entire fall of the river here>
but should think, judging from the eye, that it could
not be less than fifty feet,* including all its leaps,
down the different platforms of rock.

Through an uninteresting country, partly of pine
barren, and partly of stony hills, I arrived at night-
fall, at the head of Lake George, and found a com-
fortable inn, in the village of Caldwell, on the west-
ern shore.

prii
nu(
hill
fori
to c

!.,

* This estimate beings made without measurement, and as I
have not at hand, any authority un the subject of the height of
these fails, I wish the conjtcture in the text to be regarded m sucti-
merely.

BEC.

frequent
he water
prepared

ise chan-
lignantly
eral sub-
nong the
>nflicting
it, white
led with
rainbow.
Ij at the
with the
Tf which

rer here>
it could
ts leaps,

of pine
it night-

a com-
le west-

antl as I
height of
d w such-

rOUU BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 145

As we approached Lake George, fragments of
primitive rocks began to appear, and I observed
numerous loose masses of granite, on the steep stony
hills, near the lake. 1 was much struck with the
formidable difficulties which General Burgoyne had
to encounter in transporting his stores, and his boats,
and part of his artillery, over this rugged country i
at that time, without doubt, vastly more impractica^^
ble than at present. <. - ^

PROSPECT PROM THE HEAD OF LAKE GEORGE.

Sept, 23. — In the first gray of the morning, I was
in the balcony of the Inn, admiring the fine outline
of the mountains by which Lake George is envi-
roned, and the masses of pure snowy vapour, which,
unruffled by the slightest breeze, slumbered on its
crystal bosom. During all the preceding days of
the tour, there had not been a clear moniing, but
now, not a cloud spotted the expanse of the hea-
vens, and the sky and the lake conspired to exalt
every feature of this unrivalled landscape.

The morning came on with rapid progress ; but
the woody sides of the high mountains, that form
the eastern barrier, were still obscured, by the lin-
gering shadows of night, although, on their tops, the
dawn was now fully disclosed, and their outline, by
contrast with their dark sides, was rendered beau-
tifully distinct; while, their reversed images, per-

13*

•*^

■i

r-i

I i\

t|!

.^'

146 TOOR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC.

t^~

«#'

fectly reflected from the most exquisite of all mir-
rors, presented mountains pendent in the deep, and
adhering by their bases, to those, which at the same
moment were emulating the heavens.

A boat had been engaged, the evening before,
and we now rowed out upon the lake, and hastened
to old Fort George, whose circular massy walls of
stone, still twenty feet high, and in pretty good
preservation, rise upon a hill about a quarter of a
mile from the southern shore of the lake. I was
anxious to enjoy, from this propitious spot, the ad-
vancing glories of the morning, which, by the time
we had reached our station, were glowing upon the
mountain tops, with an etfulgence, that could be
augmented by nothing but the actual appearance of
the king of day.

Now, the opposite mountains— those that form
the western barrier, were strongly illuminated down
their entire declivity, while the twin barrier of the
eastern shore (its ridge excepted) was still in deep
shadow ; the vapour on the lake, which was just
tiuflicient to form the softened blending of light and
shade, while it veiled the lake only in spots, and
left its outline and most of its surface perfectly dis-
tinct, began to form itself into winrows,* and clouds

♦ This, possibly, is an American word, (meanin,'; the rows of
hay, that are raked together in a meadow, before the hay is
thrown into heaps ;) it exactly describes the vapour, as it appear-
ed, in some places, on the lake, and 1 knew no other word that
did.

EBEC.

fall mir-
deep, and
t the same

g before,
hastened
y walls of
itty good
irter of a
9. I was
t, the ad-
' the time
upon the
could be
arance of

hat form
ted down
ier of the
I in deep
was just
light and
pots, and
'ecti}' dis-
nd clouds

the rows of

the hay is

ks it appear-

r word that

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 147

and castles, and to recede from the water, as if con-
scious that its dominion must now be resigned.

The retreat of the vapour formed a very beauti-
ful part of the scenery ; it was the moveable light
drapery, which, at first, adorning the bosom of the
lake, soon after began to retire up the sides of the
mountains.

At the distance of twelve or fourteen miles, the
lake turns to the right, and is lost amoi^:; t! ^ moun-
tains ; to the left, is north-west Bay, more remote
and visible from the fort.

The promontory, which forms the point of junc-
tion between the lake and the bay, rises into lofty
peaks and ridges, and apparently/ forms the north-
ern termination of the lake.

Up these mountains, which are even more grand
and lofty, than those on the sides of the lake, the
vapour, accumulated by a very slight movement of
the atmosphere from the south, rolled in immense
masses, every moment changing their form ; now
obscuring the mountains almost entirely, and now
veiling their sides, but permitting their tops to
emerge, in unclouded majesty.

Anxious to witness, from the surface of the lake,
the first appearance of the sun's orb, we regained
our boat, and, in a few moments, attained the de-
sired position. Opposite to us, in the direction to-
wards the rising sun, was a place or notch, lower
than the general ridge of the mountains, and form-
(id by the intersecting curves of two declivities.

^%..

•*,-

If*

\l f )

148 T0T;R BBTWEKN UARTFORD and <iUE&EC.

Precisely through this place, were poured upon
us the first rays, which darted down, as if in lines
of burnished gold, diverging and distinct, as in a
diagram ; the ridge of the eastern mountains, was
fringed with fire, for many a mile ; the numerous
islands, so elegantly sprinkled through the lake, and
which recently appeared and disappeared, through
the rolling clouds of mist, now received the direct
rays of the sun, and formed so many gilded gar-
dens ; at last came the sun, " rejoicing in his
strength,'^ and, as he raised the upper edge of his
burning disk into view, in a circle of celestial fire,
the sight was too glorious to behold ;--it seemed,
when the full orb was disclosed, as if he looked down
with complacency, into one of the most beautiful
spots in this lower world, and, as if gloriously re-
presenting his great creator, he pronounced " it alt
very good." I certainly never belore saw the sun
rise with such majesty I have not exaggerated the
effect, and, without doubt, it arises principally from
the fact, that Lake George is so completely envi-
roned by a barrier of high mountains, that it is in
deep shade, while the world around is in light,
and the sun, already risen for some time, does not
dart a single ray upon this imprisoned lake, till,
having gained a considerable elevation, he bursts, all
at once, over the fiery ridge of the eastern moun-
tains, and pours, not a horizontal, but a descending
flood of light, which, instantly piercing the deep
shadows, that rest on the lake, and on the western

I'm

/«

t 1

,'>t^

iid(

♦ 3>

TOUR RETWEKN' HARTFORD AND «iUEBEC. 149

side of the eastern barrier, thus produces the finest
possible effects of contrast. When the sun had at>
tained a little height above the mountain, we ob-
served a curious effect ; a perfect cone of light, with
its base towards the sun, lay upon the water, and,
from the vertex of the cone, which reached half
across the lake, there shot out a delicate line of par-
allel rays, which reached the western shore, and the
whole very perfectly represented a gilded steeple.
As this effect is opposite to the common form of the
sun^s effulgence, it must probably depend upon
some peculiarities in the shape of the summits of
the mountains at this place.

■■i

ill

PRINTS, NO. 3 AND 4.

For some illustrations of the scenery of the south
end of Lake George and of th'e preceding descrip-
tion of it, reference may be had to the prints, No.
3 and 4, — for which, as well as for all the similar
ornaments of this volume, I am indebted to the pen-
cil of my friend and fellow traveller. These two
views were sketched by him, on a former tour, but
are, in every respect, as appropriate to the present
occasion, as to the one on which they were drawn.

The view. No. 3, being taken from the water's
edge, in front of the public house, in the village of
Caldwell, which stands on the very shore of the
south-western side of the lake, of course leaves
that village in the rear, and exhibit<>, as the most

VlW ^..^^. - -

l50 TOUR BETWEEN UARTrORD AND QUCSCC.

'■ I

>'-•'

I' '/

prominent objects, the mountains, on the eastern
shore forming a strong contrast with the peaceful
bosom of the lake. Several of the islands are in
sight, and pleasantly diversify the uniform surface
of the water, the view of which, to the north, and
north-west, is, necessarily, limited by the position
of the observer.

Inprint, No. 4, the observer being at Fort George,
situated, as I have already remarked, at some dis-
tance from the southern shore of the lake, and in a
direct'on, about mid-way between its eastern and
western sides, contemplates a prospect, considera-
bly different from that seen in the other position.
The eastern barrier is now much less in view : the
promontory, where the lake turns off to the right,
and is lost among the mountains, and where north-
west bay stretches to the left and appears bounded
by very high mountains, is immediately before him,
at the distance of about twelve miles ; the islands,
in view, are more numerous, and give greater varie-
ty to the now more extended surface of the lake ;
and, immediately at the observer's feet, is the ac-
clivity, by which we ascend from the lake, to the
old fort, upon the walls of which we are supposed
to stand, and they, of course, are not in view. On
the very shore, we observe one of the old barracks,
formerly belonging to the fort, now exhibiting a
tavern sign, and, till within a few years, constituting
the only place of accommodation to those who vis-
ited Lake George. At this place, although princi-

?!l

'.}<.^

:*f^-'

•***--*

CB£C.

I eastern
peaceful
s are in
I surface
>rth, and
position

; George,
ome dis-
and in a
tern and
msidera-
position.
ew : the
he right,
re north-
bounded
ore him,
\ islands,
er varie-
iG lake ;

the ac-
3, to the
iupposed
jw. On
)arracks,

biting a
istiluting
n\\o vis-
I princi-

.TTp^ijpr,iiii!t,vi:|](i;ii!ini?uiiriift«ii!

fe :■ .pll

'!l

^•-

" H

^i] \l

*•'

' »

*■> •-

•i I

."*S \«\Jt

TOUR BETWEEjr HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 151

pally covered by the water, are the ruins of the old
military quay or pier, formerly extending a good
way into the lake, and affording important facilities
to the numerous expeditions, that have sailed upon
Lake George.

REMARKS ON LAKE GEORGE AND ITS ENVIRONfc*

Every one has heard of the transparency of the
waters of Lake George. This transparency is, in-
deed, very remarkable, and the same, (as we might
indeed well suppose it would be,) is the fact with
all the streams that pour into it. After the day
light became strong, we could see the bottom per-
fectly, in most places where we rowed, and it is said,
that in fishing, even in twenty or twenty-five feet of
water, the angler may select his fish, by bring-
ing the hook near the mouth of the one which he
prefers.

Bass and trout are among the most celebrated
fish of the lake ; the latter were now in season, and
nothing of the kmd can be finer ; this beautiful fish,
elegantly decorated, and gracefully formed, shy of
observation, rapid in its movements, and delighting,
above ail, in the perfect purity of its element, finds
in Lnkc George, a residence, most happily adapted
to its nature. Here it attains a very uncommon
sice, and exhibits its most perfect beauty and sym-

., \

\52 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND (iUEHEC.

■i ii

i- i

metry. The delicate carnation of its Hesb, is here
also most remarkable, and its flavour exquisite.

If the lovers of the sublime and beautiful, visit
Lake George, for its scenery, and the patriotic, to
behold the places where their fathers stemmed the
tide of savage invasion; the epicure, also, will come
not to cherish the tender and the heroic, nor to ad-
mire the picturesque and the grand, but to enjoy
the native luxuries of the place.

The lake is about a mile wide near its head, and
is sometimes wider, sometimes narrower than this,
but rarely exceeding two miles, through its length of
thirty-six miles. It is said to contain as many
islands, as there are days in the year.

I had scarcely any opportunities of observing the
mineralogy and geology of this region.

The beautiful crystals of quartz, which all stran-
gers obtain at Lake George, are got on the islands in
the lake ; one about four miles from its head, (and
called, of course, the diamond island,) ^ns been
principally famous for affording them ; tl ,. : is a so-
litary miserable cottage upon this island, from
which we saw the smoke ascending ; — a woman,
who lives in it, is facetiously called "the lady of the
lake," but, probably no Malcolm Groeme, and Rhod-
erick Dhu will ever contend on her account.

Crystals are now obtained from other islands, t
believe, more than from this, and they are said no
longer to find the single loose crystals in abundance

i I

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND q,UBBEC. 153

on the shores, but break up the rocks for this pur-
pose. Poor people occupy themselves in procur-
ing crystals, which they deposit at the public house,
for sale.

The crystals of Lake George, are hardly surpass-
ed by any in the world, for transparency, and for
perfection of form ; they are, as usual, the six-sided
prism, and are frequently terminated at both ends by
six-sided pyramids. These last must, of course, be
found loose, or, at least, not adhering to any rock ;
those which are broken off, have necessarily only
one pyramid.* I procured specimens of the rocky
matrix, in which the crystals are formed ; it is of a
quartzoze nature, and contains cavities finely stud-
ded with crystals.

The crystals of Lake George frequently contain
a dark coloured foreign substance, enclosed all
around, or partially so ; its nature, I believe, has not
been ascertained ; it may be manganese, titanium,
or iron.

I had no opportunity to see the rocks, except
those on which Fort George stands, and which form
the barrier of the lake, at its head ; the are a dove-
coloured, compact lime-stone, of a very clo^^e grain,
and smooth conchoidal fracture ; they very much

'" I hare a eryttiil from Lake George, obtained by a toldier,
and presented to the late President Dwight, which is between five
and six inchns long, by three broad, and is perfoctly limpid, and
well orjitalised.

iiii

' i

154 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC

2 J ,r

resemble the marble of Middlebury, (Vermont,;
and, I suppose, belong to the transition class. I
could get no view of the rocks of the two lateral
barriers, but, from what I afterwards saw, I conclude
they are primitive, and probably (at least the eas-
tern one,) gneiss.*

The vulgar, about the lake, say, that in some pla-
ces, it has no bottom ; by which, doubtless, ought
to be understood that it is in some pla '.es so deep
as not to be fathomed by their lines ; I know of no
attempts to ascertain its greatest depth.

The mountains are extensively, or rather almost
universally in dense forest; rattle snakes and deer
abound upon them, and hunting is still pursued here
with success.

I was credibly informed, that, a few years since,
there was a man in this vicinity, who had the sin-
gular power, and the still stranger temerity, to catch
living rattle snakes with his naked hands, without
wounding the snakes, or being wounded by them ;
he used to accumulate numbers of them in this
manner, for curiosity, or for sale, and, for a long
time, persisted, uninjured, in this audacious prac-
tice; but, at last, the awful fate, which all buthim-

• " ..Meade (Experimental Enquiry, &c.{>. 5,) remarks, that
the eastern side of Lake George is composed of transition rocks .
the head of this lake appears, indeed, to be transition lime-stune)
and possibly its bed may be the same ; although the quartz from
tie islands, Mhich I have not Tisited,) gives a different indica-
tion ; both barriers are. however, undoultcdly primitive.

EL.

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 155

srmont,;
;Iass. I
» lateral
onclude
the eas-

)mep1a-
ought
so deep
w of no

' almost
nd deer
ed here

s since,
he sin-

catch
without

them ;
in this

a long
3 prac-
it him-

ks, that

1 rocks .
e-8tone»
'tz from

iDclicu*

self, had expected, overtook him; he was bitten,
and died. Surely no motive, except one spring-
iiig from the highest moral duty, could have justifi-
ed such an exposure.

In some places, the mountains, contiguous to the
shores, arc rocky and precipitous. Tradition re-
lates, that a white man, closely pursued, in the win-
ter season, by two Indians, contrived to reach the
ice, on the surface of the lake, by letting himself
down one of these precipices, and, before the In-
dians could follow, he was on his skails, and dart-
ing, '* swift as the winds along," was soon out of
their reach.

I am not informed that the height of the moun-
tains, about Lake George, has ever been measured :
they appeared to my eye, generally, to exceed one
thousand feet, and probably the highest may be fif
teen hundred, or more.

The wreck of a steam-boat, recently burnt to th^
waters edge, lay near the tavern : it gave great fa-
cility in going down this beautiful lake to Ticondero-
ga; parties and individuals, were much in the habit
of making this tour; and, were there a good road,
instead of a very bad one, from Glenn's falls to
Lake George, find were the steam-boat re-estab-
lished, it must become as great a rer^ort, as tiie lakes
of Westmoreland and Cumberland, or as Loch Ka-
trin, now immortalized by the muse of Scott.

The village of Caldwell, built entirely since (he
American war, contains five or six hundred inhabit-

156 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC.

ants, with neat buildings, public and private, and a
very large commodious public house, well provided
and attended, so that strangers, visiting the lake, can
have every desired accommodation. This village,
I am informed, has arisen principally from the ex-
ertions of one enterprising individual, from whom it
derives its name, as well as its existence. He has
lived to see his labours crowned with success, and a
pretty village now smiles at the foot of the western
barrier of Lake George, on ground where the iron
ramparts of war are ^till visible; for, on this very
ground, the Marquis Montcalm's army was en-
trenched, at the siege of Fort William Henry, in
1757.

BATTLES OF LAKE GEORGE.

In the wars of this country, Lake George has
long been conspicuous. Its head waters formed the
shortest, and most convenient connexion, between
Canada, and the Hudson, and hence the establish-
ment of Fort William Henry, in 1755, and, in more
recent times, of Fort George, in its immediate vi-
cinity.

This most beautiful and peaceful lake, environed
by mountains, and seeming to claim an exemption
from the troubles of an agitated world, has often
bristled with the proud array of war, has wafted its

BEC.

te, and a
provided
lake, can
5 village,

the ex-
whom it

He has
ss, and a

western

the iron

this very

was CD-

[enry, in

rge has
med the
>etween
itablish-
in more
iate vi-

vironed
mption
often
fted its

TOUR HEX WEEN IIAUTFORD AND (JUEnEf. 167

most formidable preparations on its bosom, and has
repeatedly witnessed both the splendors and the
havoc of battle.

Large armies have been, more than once, em-
barked on Lake George, proceeding down it, on
their way, to attack Ticonderoga and Crown Point;
this was the fact with the army of Abercrombie,
consisting of nearly sixteen thousand men, including
nine thousand troops from the colonies, and a very
formidable train of artillery, which, on the fifth of
July 1758, embarked at the south end of Lake
George, on board of one hundred twenty-five whale
boats, and nine hundred batteaux.

What an armament for that period of this coun-
try ! What a spectacle, on such a narrow quiet lake !
It is said by an eye witness, to have been a most
imposing sight. Little did this proud army imagine,
that within two days, they would sustain, before Ti-
conderoga, a most disastrous defeat, with the loss
of nearly two thousand men, and of lord Howe,*

* " Lord Howe, who was killed near Ticonderoga about two and
.1 half miles from the French lines near the north end of Lake
George, in a renconter the day preceding the disastrous assault,
upon tliat fortress, was not the father, but the elder brother of
the two Howes, who were so conspicuous in the Revolutionary
War, and from him the Admiral, (being the elder of the two sur-
viving brothers,) inherited the title of Viscount and afterwards
became an Earl. Lord Howe was at the time of his (aW, a young
man, thouafh a Major General. Richard, who succeeded to the
title, was then a Captain in the British navy, and Gen. Sir. Wil-
liam Howe was then a Colonel. In the accounts of the celebrated
batti'^ton the Plains of Abraham, he is mentioned as commanding

14*

1 *

l-f

158 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFOHO AND (QUEBEC.

one of their most beloved and promising leaders,
and that they would so soon return up the lake, in
discomfiture and disgrace. In July, of the next
summer, ( 1 759,) Lake George was again covered
with an armament, Httle inferior in numbers, to that
of General Abercrombie, but vastly superior in suc-
cess; for Ticonderoga and Crown Point, were
abandoned at its approach, and General Amherst,
its fortunate leader, obtained an almost bloodless
victory.*

FORT WILLIAM HENRY.

y :;

The remains of this old fort are still visible; they
are on the verge of the lake, at its head ; the walls,
the gate, and the out-works, can still be complete-
ly traced; the ditches have, even now, considera-
ble depth, and the well that supplied the garrison,
is there, and affords water to this day; near, and
in this fort, much blood has been shed.

the British Light Infantry. These three Howes, were in feet,
the Grandsons of George the First, being the children of his ille-
gitimnte daughter by Lady Darlington^ married to Lord Viscount
Howe. {Extract from a private anonymous communication to the
author^ correcting a mistake in Ifte note on page 155, of the former
eit/ton.;— 1824. ,

•Colonel Roger Townhsend was killed by a cannon shot, while
j-econnoitering, on almost the same spot where lord Howe was
killed, the year before : he is said to have resembled him much,
<^ in birth, age, qualifications, aod character.*'

EBEC.

; leaders,
e lake, in
the next
1 covered
rs, to that
ior in sue-
nt, were
Amherst,
bloodless

)le; they
he walls,
omplete-
onsidera-
garrison,
lear, and

^ere in feet,
I of his ille-
rd Viscount
ation to the
the former

shot, ^hile
Howe was
him much,

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 159

In August, 1755, General, afterwards Sir Wil-
liam Johnson, lay at the head of Lake George, with
an army, about to proceed to the attack of Crown
Point; they were troops raised by the northern
colonies.

Baron Dieskau, who commanded the French
forces in Canada, leaving Ticonderoga, came up
Lake Champlain, through south bay, and was pro-
ceeding to the attack of Fort Edward, which con-
tained not five hundred men, and had been report-
ed to Dieskau, to be without cannon. To the suc-
cour of this fort. General Johnson detached one
thousand men, and two hundred Indians, under
Colonel Williams, of Deerfield.

Dieskau's army, having in the mean time learn-
ed that there were cannon at Fort Edward, and
being assured that General Johnson's camp was
without artillery or entrenchments, importuned
their General to change his purpose of attacking
Fort Edward, and to lead them northward, to assail
Johnson's camp. Dieskau yielded to their wishef ,
and turned his course accordingly. The moun-
tains, which form the barrier of Lake George, con-
tinue to the south after they leave the lake, form-
ing a rugged, narrow defile, of several miles in
length, most of which was then, and still is, filled
with forest trees.

In this defile, about four miles from General John-
son's camp, Colonel Williams' party, which left the
camp, between eight and nine o'clock in the morn-

ih if

i;'l

n I

rf /:.

ii m

iGOTOUn BETWEEN' HARTFORD AND QUEBEC.

ing, of September 8th, 1755, very unexpectedly fell
in with the army of Baron Dieskau ; the two armies
met in the road, front to front; the Indians of
Dieskau's army were in ambuscade, upon both de-
chvities of the mountains, and thus it was a complete
surprise, for Colonel Williams had unhappily neg-
lected to place any scouts upon his wings. A bloody
battle ensued, and a deadly tire was poured in upon
both flanks.-Colonel Williams, endeavouring to lead
his men against the unseen enemy, was instantly
shot through the head, and he, and hundreds of his
party, including old Hendrick, the chief of the Mo-
hawks, and forty Indians were slain. The remain-
der of the party, under the command of Colonel
Whiting, retreated into the camp. They came run-
ning in, in the utmost confusion and consternation,
and perhaps owed their safety, in a great measure,
to another party, which, when the firing was heard,
and perceived to be growing louder and nearer, was
sent out to succour them. '

Judge Kent informed me, that old Mr. Van
Schaik, of Kinderhook, has recently related to him
that, arriving the next day, on the ground where the
battle was fought, he saw three hundred men, dead
on the spot, and Baron Dieskau lying, mortally
wounded, in the English camp, on the bed of Gene-
ral Johnson. This wound was received in a second,
and a still greater battle, fought the same day. Dies-
kau, after the retreat of Williams' party, marchingon
with spirit, attacked General Johnson's entrenched

oa
ve

/ '

uBEC.

ctedly fell
wo armies
ndians of

1 both de-
complete
>pily neg-
A bloody
d in upon
ng to lead

instantly
eds of his
f the Mo-

2 remain-
Colonel

ame run-
ernation,
measure,
as heard,
irer, was

tfr. Van
d to him
^here the
en, dead
mortally
f Gene-
second,
r. Dies-
chingon
renched

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 161

camp, and although he fought with long and perse-
vering valour, his army, in a great measure deserted
by the Canadians and Indians, was repulsed with im-
mense slaughter, Dieskau, wounded in the leg, and
unable to follow his retreating army, was found lean-
ing against a tree ; he began to feel for his watch, in
order to deliver it up to the soldier, who was ap-
proaching him; but the soldier supposing him to be
searching for a pistol, unhappily fired a charge int©
his hips which caused his death.*

Nor did this battle terminate the fighting of this
bloody day. The remains of Dieskau's army re-
treated, about four miles, to the ground where Co-
lonel Williams had been defeated in the morning,
— the rear of the army were there sitting upon the
ground, had opened their knapsacks, and were re-
freshing themselves, when Captain McGinnies, who

* An anonymouB correspondent, to whom I am indebted fur
several kind and judicious suggestions, respecting this book, some-
ivhat questions, nt'hether Baron Dieskau died of his wound, and
thioks that he recovered aDd returned to Europe, but at the same
time states that the account in the text, corresponds with the
traditionary stories which he had heard in his childhood. — The
book from which I quoted the fact, was a very early history of
those campaigns, in 12 mo. loaned to me, at the time, as a pocket
travelling history, by Chancellor Kent. — [ta title I do not now
remember, and believe it was anonymous.

President Dwight in his travels, Vol. 3, page 361, gives a very
interesting and full history of the battles of Lake George. — His
account of the manner in which Dieskau received his wound cor-
responds precisely with mine, but he adds, that he "was convey-
ed from Albany to New- York, and from theoce to England, where
soon after he died."

i !■<•

■\i

^ \.\n

' »i ,1

<-T"

j:k

I ,1.

.1 ii'

162 TOUR BETWEEN HARTPORD A\D (QUEBEC.

with two hundred men, had b < ; f^i'spatched from
Vort Edward, to succour the uiain body, came up
with this portion of the French army, thus sitting
insecurity, and attacked and totally defeated them,
although he was himself mortally wounded. Thus
were three battles fought in one day,* and almost
upon the same ground. This ground I went over.
The neighbouring mountain, in which the French
so suddenly made their appearance, is to this day,
called French Mountain, and this name, with the
tradition of the fact, will be sent down to the latest
posterity. I was shown a rock by the road at
which a considerable slaughter took place. It was
on the east side of the road near where Col. Wil-
liams fell, and I am informed is, to this day, called
Williams'' Rock,

THE BLOODY POJfD.

( : ;

Just by the present road, and in the midst of
these battle grounds, is a circular pond, shaped ex-
actly like a bowl ; it may be two hundred feet in
diameter, and was, when 1 saw it^ full of water, and
covered loith the pond lilly, Alas ! this pond, now
so peaceful, was the common sepulchre of the
brave ; the dead bodies of most of those who were
slain on this eventful day, were thrown, in undis-

* Smollet and some other writers place this last battle on the
next (lay.

..*~ *«*».

EBGC.

ched from
, came up
hus sitting
itcd them,
3d. Thus
md almost
went over,
he French
o this day,
, with the
) the latest
le road at
;e. It was
Col. Wil.
day, called

e midst of
shaped ex-
red feet in
' water, and
pond, now
ire of the
I who were
, in undis-

battle on the

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. IGi

tinguished confusion into this pond ; from that time
to the present, it has been called the bloody pond,
and there is not a child in this region, but will point
you to the French mountain, and to the bloody
pond. — I stood with dread, upon its brink, and
threw a stone into its unconscious waters. After
these events, a regular fort was constructed at the
head of the lake and called Fort William Henry.

MASSACRE OF FOaT WILLIAM HENRY.

The three battles of September 8th, were not
the end of the tragedies of Lake George. The
Marquis de Montcalm, after three ineffectual at-
tempts upon Fort William Henry, made great ef-
forts to besiege it in form, and in August, 1757,
having landed ten thousand men near the fort sum-
moned it to surrender. The place of his landing
was shown me, a little north of the public house ;
the remains of his batteries and other works are
still visible ; and the graves and bones of the slaiu
are occasionally discovered.

He had a powerful train of artillery, and although
the fort and works were garrisoned by three thou-
sand men, and were most gallantly defended by the
commander, Colonel Monroe, it was obliged to capit-
ulate; but the most honourable terms, were granted
to Colonel Monroe, in consideration of his great gal-

"•S-^Sl,

^K^

■««W|«l^W5^,jjr5ig3,

:j*Ci.;

164 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND <iUEBEL.

lantry. The bursting of the great guns, the want ol
ammunition, and above all, the failure of General
Webb to succour the fort, although he lay idle at
Fort Edward with four thousand men, were the
causes of this catastrophe.

The capitulation was, however, most shamefully
broken ; the Indians attached to Montcalm's army,
while the troops were marching out of the gate of
the fort, dragged the men from the ranks, particu-
larly the Indians in the English service, and butch-
ered them in cold blood — they plundered all with-
out distinction, and murdered women and little
children, with circumstances of the most aggravated
barbarity.* The massacre continued all along the
road, through the defile of the mountains, and for
many miles, the miserable prisoners, especially
those in the rear, were tomahawked and hewn
down in cold blood ; it might well be called the
bloody defile, for it was the same ground that was
the scene of the battles, only two years before, in
1755. It is said that efforts were made by the French
to restrain the barbarians, but they were not restrain-
ed, and the miserable remnant of the garrison with
difficulty reached Fort Fdward pursued by the In-

* Men and women had Iheir throats cut, their bodies ripped
open, and their bowels, with insult, thrown in their faces.— In-
fants and children were barbarously taken by the heels, and their
brains dashed out against stones and trees. The Indians pursued
the English nearly half the way to Fort Edward, where the
greatest nuusber of them arrived in a most forlorn condition.

EBEC.

TOUft BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 165

le want ot

General

y idle at

were the

lamefully
u's army,

le gate of
;, particu-
nd butch-
l all wilh-
ind little
ggravatcd

along the
8, and for
especially
nd hewn
ailed the

that was
before, in
le French
>t restrain-
rison with
by the In-

odies ripped
faces.— In-

>Is, and their

ians pursued
where the

tditioD.

dians, although escorted by a body of French troops.
I passed over the whole of the ground, upon which
this tragedy was acted, and the oldest men of the
country still remember this deed of guilt and infa-
my.

Fort William Henry was levelled by Montcalm,
and has never been rebuilt. Fort George was
built as a substitute for it, on a more commanding
site, and although often mentioned in the history
of subsequent wars, was not, I believe, the scene of
any very memorable event.

It was the depot for the stores of the army of
General Burgoyne, till that commander relinquish'
cd his connexion with the lakes, and endeavoured
to push his fortunes without depending upon his
magazines in the rear.

Having occupied a very busy morning in visiting
the memorable places at the head of Lake George,
and having procured specimens of the mineral pro-
ductions of this region, I proceeded on my journey
to Fort Anne. Mr. H , my obliging compan-
ion, attended me, and we were necessitated to re
turn some miles through the gorge of the moun-
tains, and again to view the bloody pond, the French
Mountain, and the bloody defile. Rarely, I pre-
sume, have such scenes of horror been exhibited so
often, within so narrow a space. We may confi-
dently trist, that they will never be repeated ; that
Lake George, traversed no longer by armies, its

forests and its mountains undisturbed by the roar

;uj

,.i ■

16U TOUK BETWEEN HAKTVORD AND (QUEBEC.

I t

of cannoD, and its waters polluted no more by
blood ; but visited in peace, by the lovers of the
sublime and beautiful, and arrayed in its own gran-
deur and loveliness, will hereafter exhibit the tra-
gical history of other times, only to impart a pen-
sive tenderness and a moral dignity to the charming
scenes with which the story of these events is asso-
ciated.

As we emerged from the defile, and turned to
the left, around the base of the mountains that form
the eastern barrier of Lake George, we had many
opportunities of admiring the grandeur of that bar-
rier, and of contemplating all that wildness of land-
scape, which, it may be presumed, has undergone
little change, since it was traversed by the prowling
savage, intent on the chase, or on his more beloved
employment, the destruction of his fellow creatures.
In this dreadful occupation he has, however, been
more than rivalled by the polished nations of Amer-
ica and of Europe j who, if they do not pursue war
with the atrocity of the savasre, seem to have fo!-
lowed it with all his eagerness, and have often iden-
tified themselves with his most horrid cruolties, by
calling him in as an ally and a friend, and marching
by his side to slaughter those who are connected by
the common, (it ought to be by the sacredy) tie of
Christianity.

In the progress of cur ride, we emerged from
mountain scenery, and saw many 2;ood farms, and
much arr'uic and pasture land. The country be-

lEii,

more by
Ts of the
vvn gran-
the tra-
rt a pen-
harming
> is asso-

urned to
hat fu nil
ad many
hat bar-
of land-
idergone
prowling
beloved
reatures.
er, been
if Amer-
rsue war
ave fo!-
en iden-
Ities, by
iiarching
ected by
/,) tie of

ed from
ms, and
ntry be-

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC, l67

came much less rugged, although the roads were
little improved by art ; for they were common and
often obscure cross roads.

We met with no adventure, and the failure of
one of our waggon wheels, which obliged us to
walk, and to sustain the vehicle for the last two
miles, did not prevent our arriving at the appointed
liour of dinner at old Fort Anne, which Mr. Wads-
worth hnd already reached before me.

Fort Anne was another post established in the
French wars. It stood about midway brjtvveen Fort
Edward and the most southern point of Lake
Champlain, and at the head ol batteaux navigation
on Wood Creek. I did not go to its site, the ruins
of which, I am told are almost obliterated; its
well, however, is still to be seen. There is a con-
siderable village here, which bears the name of the
Fort.

[[n May, 1821, I again viisited Lnkc Gcoigc ond
its environs, and passed in an open boat down tli(i
whole length of the Lake, by water, to Ticoiidcro-
aa. The observations or mineralogy and scenery,
which were made at that time, were printcil in the
American Journal of Science, (Vol. IV. p. 44.)
As they may be of use to the traveller, I insert them
in this place, although they will somewhat break
the order of the narrative. But this slight incon-
venience, and the unavoidable anachronism, will

iA ■

111

.^■■/

I ..

168 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC.

probably be pardoned if the observations should be
found to be useful.

Miscellaneous remarks on the mineralogy, scenery,
Sfc, of Lake George^ and its environs, made in
May, 1821.

Compact dove-coloured limestone, apparently of
ihe transition class forms ledges at the head of Lake
George, and the walls of old Fort George are conn-
posed of it. In this limestone there is a singular
feature. Fts angles are rounded and smoothed, as
by the wearing effects of water and (a circumstance
which it appears much more difficult to account
for,) there are numerous holes worn into the solid
rock, sometimes shallow and irregular, but fre-
quently deep and cylindrical, and bearing a very
exact resemblance to those which are common in
the ledges upon which cataracts fall ; they appear
as if they were produced by the same cause, viz.
the wparinji agency of wator aided by small stones,
which it impels, in incessant vortiginous revolutions.
If one were to judge from appearances, he would
infer that a torrent of water once swept, with great
impetuosity through thisdefile and wore these rocks
as we now see them ; this suppo^-iition has perhaps
nothing to support it, except these appearances,
and if we relinquish it, we have no agent to which
we can attribute thrm, but the ordinary wearing ef-
fects of atmospheric influeiices, which appear alto-

BEC.

hould be

, scenery,
made in

rently of
1 of Lake
are corn-
singular
)tlied, as
jmstance
account
the solid
but fre-
; a very
mmon in
r appear
use, viz.
1 stones,
olutions.
le would
ith great
ise rocks
perhaps
araucus,
o which
rin^ ef-
ar altu-

TOOIl BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QITEREC. 169

gether incompetent to the production of these re-
suits.

Quartz crystals in the Islands of the South end of
Lake George. These are commonly obtained by
visitors ; they are now become much more rare
than formerly, and those which are procured are
small, although still very limpid and beautiful. On
visiting the Island called Diamond Island, three or
four miles from the village of Caldwell, and which
has afforded most of these crystals we found them
occurring in the same compact limestone, which
forms the ledges at the head of the lake. This small
island scarcely covering the area of a common
kitchen garden is inhabited by a family who occu-
py a small but comfortable house, and constantly
explore the rocks for the crystals. These are
found lining drusy cavities, and forming geodes in
the limestone ; these cavities are often brilliantly
studded with them and doubtless it arose from Iheir
falling out by (he disintegration of tlio rock that the
crystals were formerly fourul on the shores of the
island and in the water. At prjsent they are
scar: :ly obtained at all except by breaking the
rocks. The immediate matrix of the crystals
seems to be a mixture of fine granular quartz with
the limestone ; it is impressible by steel, butj^ome-
times does not effervesce 'vith acids though general-
ly it does and feebly scratches glass. The crystals
of this locality are of the common form, very lim-

15*

(

■W.

^#..-. ♦ '^ ■

•j(HK*v-

-^saisf^'U-

■■s^>

<//i

U ,1 ^^

' i

170 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC

pi(l, and often contain a dark coloured foreign sub-
stance imbedded in them.

CrystaU of Calcareous f par well defined and of
xonsiderable size occur in t!ie same rocks, some-
times with tlie quartz crystals and sometimes by
themselves ; they appear to be modifications of the
rhomboidal varieties.

Very brilliant rhombic masses of Calcareous spar
also present themselves in these rocks ; these mas-
ses are not crystals, but have the crystaline struc-
ture, giving perfectly rhombcMdal frap^ments with a
high pearly lustre ; they are very white and appear
exactly like the Iceland crystals oniy (hey are not
transparent. They seem to be the bitter-spath.
The poorpeoplo on the Islandj had no idea that the
calcareous crystals were ot any value, and had been
in the habit of throwifin; them away ; we took care
to give them a difrereut impression, and trust it may
be useful to future visitors.

Crystals of Diamond point. — We passed down
(he whole length of the lake (thirty-six miles) in a
\ery small open boat— a fisherman's skitF rowed by
two men. We stopped at a place on the north
nhore of the lake caHiMl Diamond Point, from the

fact that crystals are found also at this place. It

has hren rcrcntly opened by the man who lives on
the Islaad and wht* was our guide on the present
occas or. — The rock and its associated minerals
are the same as on the Island, only we observed a

{EG.

2ign sub-

1 and of
s, some-
times by
ns of the

lOus spar
lese mas-
le struc-
s with a
d appear

are not
er-spath.

that the
had been
■)ok care
st it may

ed down

les) in a

owed by

le north

rom the

ace. — It

lives on

present

minerals

served a

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEliEC. 171

greater variety of siliceous minerals; — portions of
chalcedony, and hornstone and agate — elegant cav-
ities occupied by quartz crystals and some singular
banded portions concentric and curved like agate,
but without beauty. It is probable that more re-
search will discover interesting varieties of siliceous
and other minerals, in the limestone of the south
end of Lake George. It would probably repay a
good observer who should investigate it with indus-
try and attention.

Sands of Lake George* — At various places we ex-
amined the sands of the shores of this most beauti-
ful lake. Around its head, there is a good deal of
magnetic iron sand of a line glossy black, and both
here and in many other places, we found the de-
tritus to consist almost entirely of the ruins of prim-
itive rocks and of their imbedded and especially of
their crystalline minerals. — Limpid quartz, garnet,
and epidote are of most frequent occurrence and
when mixed with the black iron sand they have a
pleasing appearance, especially when spread out
on paper and viewed with a magnifier. It is indeed
somewhat difficult to believe, that the garnet and
epidote and probably coccolite often rich in their
colours and highly transnicent, are not ruby and
chrysoberyl. It would be worth while to examine
ihcse sands more particularly to ascertain whether
these may not be ^^ems among them, as the gems of
Ceylon and of Bra/i!, and the hyacinths of Kxpail-
ly in France are found among alluvial ruins. Some

:i II

,?-.

■ HH Mim K ,

172 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC

i>. i

sands shown us by Prof. Dewey at Williamstown,
and which came from the great falls of the Hudson
thirty miles above Glenn's falls, are even more re-
markable for richness and beauty than those of
Lake George : they and all similar sands should
be examined with an attentive eye.

Transparency and purity of the Waters of Lake
George* — The fact is notorious and the degree in
which it exists is most remarkable : the bottom
and the fish are seen at a great depth : the fisher-
man who rowed us asserted that they could at par-
ticular times see th*^ fish at the depth of 50 {eei :
if even half this statement be admitted, it is suffi-
ciently remarkable. The water is also very pure,
salubrious and agreeable to the taste. It is well
known that the French formerly obtained and ex-
ported this water for religious uses, and that they
called the lake St. Sacrament.

The cause of the transparency and purity of
these waters is obvious. With the exception of small
quantities of transition limestone, its shores as far
as we saw them, are composed of primitive rocks,
made up principally of siliceous and other very
firm and insoluble materials. The streams by
which the lake is fed, flow over similar substunces,
and the waves find nothing to dissolve or to hold
mechanically suspended. Clay which abounds
around the head waters oi the contiguous lake
(Champlain) and renders them turbid, scarcely ex-

mstown,
Hudson

[Tiore re-

those of

should

0/ Lake
3gree in
} bottom
B fisher-
d at par-
50 (eQt :

is suffi-
;ry pure,
t is well

and ex-
that they

purity of
1 ofsmail
res as far
/e rocks,
tier very
earns by
bstunces,
r to hold
abounds
3US lake
rcely ex-

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 173

ists here. It is remarkable, however, that as we
approach Lake Champlain in the vicinity of Ticon-
deroga, the waters of Lake George become, for a
few miles somewhat turbid, and near the efflux they
are very much so.

Hcematite, — This mineral appears to abound in
the primitive mountains around Lake George.
They informed us at the village of Caldwell, that
emery had been discovered down the lake and was
used considerably for polishing, grinding, &;c. We
obtained some of this mineral from a promontory
called Anthony's nose (familiarly called by the boat-
men Tony's nose,) a few miles south of Ticondero-
ga, and nearly opposite to Rogers Rock. It is a
handsome and very well characterized hcematite ;
it is compact lamellar, fibrous, mamillary, botryoid-
al, he, presenting the usual appearances of this
most valuable iron ore, which seems to be far less
common in the United States, than the black and
brown varieties. The colour and powder of this
haematite are bright red. The people were un-
willing to admit that it was not emery, since it pol-
ishes and grinds, but this is well known to be a
property of hoematite as well as of other forms of
the oxide of iron.

The hoematite of Lake George may very possi-
bly answer i'or bloodstones^ so much used in polish-
ing gilded buttons, &:c.

Flesh red Feldspar and compact Epidote, — These
minerals we observed on the western shore of Lake

174 TOUR BETVVKEN HARTFORD AND qUEBEC

George, eight miles from Ticonderoga. The feld-
spar was in very large plates in granite, and the epi-
dote in loose stones : the epidote was of a very
intense yellow, like that of chrome, but with a
shade of green. Other minerals of more common
occurrence, as garnet and black toiirrnHJine were
observed here.

Plumbago. — This mineral of singular byauty oc-
curs near Ticonderoga, both massive and dissemin-
ated in brilliant plates, in a large grained crystal-
lized limestone. It has been mistaken for molyb-
dena, a circumstance which a few years ago was
common in this country. This locality we did not
visit, nor the celebrated one near Rogers Rock
where the coccolite is found.

Magnetic Iron of Crown Point* — We were not
able to visit this place, but we saw them working
the magnetic iron from its vicinity, in the forges of
Ticonderoga. The iron ore is both rich and beau-
tiful in its kind ; — it has a brilliant black colour,
and contains a yellowish imbedded mineral, scarce-
ly visible without a glass ; it resembles coccolite
hut is too soft, and at present we are not willing to
give it a name.

Mountains of Lake George. — There can be no
doubt that t' henever they are thoroughly explored
they will abundantly reward the geologist and min-
eialogist. We however saw them only ns pictur-
esque objects ; as such they are certainly very fine.
Particularly as we proceed north from the Tongue

rn. The fcld-
e, and the epi-
as of a very
, but with a
Tiore common
irmaline were

liar bc'-auty oc-
and disjiemin-
•ained crystal -
:en for molyb-
years ago was
ity we did not
Rogers Rock

We were not
;hem working
1 the forges of
rich and beau-
black colour,
ineral, scarce-
bles coccolite
not willing to

ere can be no
ighly explored
ogist and min-
)]y r\s pictur-
linly very fine,
m the Tongue

■!i

t !J

TOOR BETWEE.V HAUTFOHD AND qUKBKC. 175

Mountain, which is twelve miles from Caldwell.
For twenty miles beyond this, on the way to Ti-
conderoga, the scenery combines in an uncommon
degree, both richness and grandeur. The moun-
tains are all primitive : they form a double barrier,
between which the lake, scarcely a mile wide, but
occasionally expanding into large bays, winds its
way. They are steep and precipitous to the very
water's edge : they are still clothed with grand
trees, and possessed by wild animals — deer,
bears, &c. They give in son- places, the most
distinct and astonishing eciioes, returning ev-
ery flexion of the voice with the most faithful re-
sponse. We saw them hung with the solemn dra-
pery of thunder clouds, dashed by squalls of wind
and rain, and soon after decorated with rainbows,
whose arches did not surpass the mountain ridges,
while they terminated in the lake and attended our
little skiff for many miles. The setting sun also
gilded the mountains atjd the clouds that hovered
over them and the little islands, which in great
numbers rise out of the lake and present green
patches of shrubbery and trees, apparently spring-
ing from th J wator, and often resembling, by their
minuteness and delicacy, the clumps of a park, or
even the artificial groups of a green house. Fine
a? is the scenery at the southern end of the lake
and in all the wider part of it, within the compass
of the first twelve miles from fort George — its gran-
deur is much augn^anted, after passing Tongue

I '•»

c.\

u»

f .n

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

1.0

I.I

11.25

I^IM 125

|io "^^ HflH

*^ Itt |2.2

I. ^

hww

U 11111.6

Photografiiic

Sdences

Corporation

33 WIST MAM STRlIt

WIUTIR.N.Y. )4StO

(7U) •73-4S03

I/.

176 TOUR BKTWEKN HARTFORD AND QULBLi:*

Mountain and entering the narrow part where the
mountains close in upon you on both sides, and pre- .
sent an endless diversity of grand and beautiful
scenery. It is a pleasing reflection, that even after
this part of the United States, shall have become as
populous as England or Holland, this lake will still
retain the fine peculiarities of its scenery, for they
are too bold, too wild, and too untractable, ever to
be materially softened and spoiled by the hand of
man* Deer arc still hunted with success upon the
borders of this lake. The hounds drive them from
the recesses of the mountains, when they take re-
fuge in the water, and the huntsmen easily overtak-
ing in an element not their own, seize them by
the horns, knock them on the head, and drag^^^ing
their necks over the side of the boat, cut their
throats.

There is a celebrated mountain about fourteen
miles from Ticonderoga, called the Buck moun-
tain, from the fact that a buck, pursued by the dogs
leaped from its summit over-hanging the lake in
the form of a precipice, and was literally impaled
alive upon a sharp pointed tree which projected be-
low.*

• This circumstance was mentioned to me by the man whose
Jogs drove the buck to this desperate extremity. He stated that
he had scmetimtt taken forty deer in a season.

■,V||

i^i .1

e,
le

i u
Ihe

»rhere the
and pre- .
beautiful
even after
}ecome as
will still
for they
ever to
hand of
ipon the
•Ti from
Y take re-
y overtak-
j them by
1 drag(/ing
cut their

t fourteen
ick moun-
•y the dogs
he lake in
\y impaled
►jected be-

p man vrhote
e itateU that

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 177

BATTLE NEAR FORT ANNE.

Leaving Fort Anne we crossed Wood Creek,
and our journey to Whitehall was almost constant-
ly along its banks, or very near them.

At a narrow pass between some high rocks and
the river, we were shown the place where, on the
8th of July, 1777, the 9th British regiment, belong-
ing to General Burgoyne's army, sustained a hea-
vy loss, by a conflict with the Americans under Co-
lonel Long.

After the surrender of Ticonderoga, General
Burgoyne endeavoured to keep up the alarm, by
spreading his parties over the country. With this
view, Colonel Hill, at the head of the 9th regiment,
was dispatched after Colonel Long, who, with four
or five hundred men, principally the invalids and
convalescents of the army, had taken post at Fort
Anne, and was directed by General Schuyler to de-
fend it. Colonel Long, with his party, did not wait
an attack from the enemy, but boldly advanced to
meet them. "At half past ten in the morning, (says
Major Forbes,* of the British regiment,) they at-
tacked us in front, with a heavy and well directed
fire ; a large body of thom passed the creek on the
left, and fired from a thick wood across the creek
on the left flank of the regiment : they then began
to recross the creek and attack us in the rear; we

* Burgoyae's state of th« Expedition, fee.

. ♦

178 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC

t .

then found it necessary to change our ground, to
prevent the regiment's being surrounded ; we took
post on the top of a hill to our right. As soon as
we had taken post, the enemy made a very vigo-
rous attack, which continued for upwards of two
hours ; and they certainly would have forced us, had
it not been for some Indians that arrived and gave
the Indian whoop, which we answered with three
cheers ; the rebels soon after that gave away." —
The giving way of the Americans was, however,
caused, not by the terror of the war whoop, but by
the failure of their ammunition. The fact wa?, the
British regiment was worsted, and would probably
have been taken or destroyed, had Colonel Long
been well supplied with ammunition. It was said
by Captain Money, another British officer, that the
fire was even heavier than it was in the obstinate
battle of September 19th, on Bemus' heights. The
scene of this battle is very correctly described
above, by Major Forbes.

On leaving the street of Fort Anne village, we
crossed a bridge over Wood Creek, and were now
on its left bank. Immediately after, we came to a
narrow pass, only wide enough for the carriage, and
cut, in a great measure, out of a rocky ledge, which
terminates here, exactly at the creek. This ledge
is the southern end of a hijjii rocky hill, which con-
verges toward Wood Creek, and between the two
is a narrow tract of level ground, which terminates
at the pass already mentioned. On this ground the

gn(

i I

.» ♦

EBEC«

round, to
we took
s soon as
ery vigo-
is of two
:edus,had
{ and gave
with three
away." —
however,
lop, but by
ct was, the
1 probably
onel Long
It was said
er, that the
e obstinate
ights. The
described

village, we
were now
3 came to a
)rriagc, and
edge, which
This ledge
, which con-
cen the two
'w terminates
3 ground the

TOHR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 171)

battle took place, and the wood on the right bank of
the creek, from which the Americans tired upon the
left flank of the British, is still there, and it was up
this rocky hill that they retreated, and took their
stand.

General Burgoyne, as usual, claimed a victory in
this affair, which is understood to have been a
bloody contest, as indeed it obviously must have
been, from the narrowness of the defile, and the
consequent nearness of the contending parties. —
Captain Montgomery, of Colonel Hill's regiment,
was left wounded on the field, and taken prisoner
by the Americans, which could not have been the
fact, had the Royal party been victorious.

Immediately after leaving this battle ground, we
arrived on the banks of the canal, which is to con-
nect the Hudson with Lake Champlain. Being al-
most constantly in sight of it, and very often as near
it as possible, we were seriously incommoded by
deep gullies, and heaps of miry clay, thrown out by
the canal diggers, through which we were compel-
led to drag our way ; and when we were not in the
mud, we found a road excessively rough and uncom-
fortable, from the utiited cfiect of much rain and
much travelling, with occasional hot sunshine, in a
country whose basis is a stiff clay. We rode almost
constantly in sight of Wood Creek, as well as of the
canal.

The rocks on our ride were immense strata of
gneiss, often so full of garnets that the ledges ap-

f»

lUO TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AM> CtUEBEV*

peared, at a great distance, spotted with red and
brown. These primitive hills have every appear-
ance of being continued, uninterruptedly, to Lake
George, and it is evident that its eastern barrier
must be primitive.

After a very fatiguing journey from Fort Anne,
several miles of which I walked, we arrived safely
at Whitehall, at the head of Lake Champlain, a lit-
tle before night.

I am told there are, on parts of the road from
Fort Edward, remains of the causeway, which Gen-
eral Burgoyne, with so much labor, constructed
for the passage of his army ; but I did not see
them.* Jt will be remembered, that his route
was from Skeensborough (now Whitehall,) to Fort
Edward.

WHITEHALL— THE CANAL.

The canal terminates twenty-two miles from Fort
Edward, at Whitehall, where they are now con-

* On a subsequent journey, two years after, from Whitehall
to Sandy Hill, I saw this road in many place?; for several miles,
it was almost constanlly in view, anil in a few places we travelled
on it. It was composed of timber laid very compactly — the logs
and smaller sticks being nearly or quite in contact ; and when it
it considered that it was nut through a thick forest, most of which
was a deep morass, and that the pioneers were constantly expos-
cd to our sharp shooters, it implies great enersry on the part of the
royal army. In many places, it is still in pretty good preservH-
tion.— 1824.

■•**H^— '

IBE^-.

TOUR HETWECN HARTFORD AND qUCBEC. 181

red and
y appear-
to Lake
11 barrier

ort Anne,
'^ed safely
ain, a lit-

oad from
ilch Gen-
nstructed
not see
lis route
,) to Fort

Vom Fort

low con-
Whitehall
reral miles,
e travellrJ
r — the log?
nd when it
't of which
itiy expos-
part of the
I preset v:«-

structing a lock, with handsome massy hewn stone.
There is a considerable descent to the surface of
Lake Champlain, and Wood Creek, whose mouth
and that of the canal are side by side, here rushes
down a considerable rapid with some grandeur.
This is the place formerly called the falls of Wood
Creek, at Skeensborough.

As Wood Creek is really a river, navigable by
larger boats than those which will probably pass oq
the canal, and as the canal and river from Fort
Anne, a distance of about ten or eleven miles, are
often close together, so that a stone might be thrown
from the one to the other, a traveller naturally in-
quires why the larger natural canal should, with vast
expense, be deserted for the smaller artificial one.
The answer will probably be founded upon the
shortening of distance, by avoiding the numerous
windings of the creek — the obtaining of a better
horse road for dragging the boats — security from
the effects of floods and drought, in altering the
quantity of water — and the securing of a more ad-
equate supply of water for that part of the route
between Fort Anne and the Hudson ; in either
case, there must be locks at Whitehall.*

*The immense utility of this canal is already sutHoiently
obvious in the vast quantities of lumber and other commodities
which now find their way into the Hudsoo.-i— March, 1824.

16*

I'!

)/,

h '1

iu.

^■

182 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC.

WHITEHALL PORT.

This is a well built, and apparently thriving little
place, situated on both branches of the muddy
Wood Creek, which, on its way to the Gulf of St.
Lawrence, sluggishly flows through the village,
till it makes its escape into Lake Champlain ; it
then tumbles down a steep declivity, over a bed of
rocks, and foams, and roars, as if in exultation, at
making its escape from its own Lethean chan-
nel.

Whitehall, anciently called Skcensborough, was
famous in General Burgoyne's campaign. Here he
destroyed the little American flotilla, in July, 1777,
and the baggage and stores of the American army ;
and here he had his head quarters for some time,
while preparing to pass his army and heavy artil-
lery over land to Fort Edward.

Whitehall is situated at the bottom of a narrow
defile in the mountain?, and has the bustle and
crowded aspect of a porf, without the quiet and
cleanliness of a village. Some of the houses are
situated on elevations and declivities, and some in
the bottom of the vale — some are of wood, and
others of brick, but I was gratified to see many of
them handsomely constructed of stone — of the fine
gneiss rock which abounds here — the (wo parts
of the town are connected by a bridge over Wood
Creek. The population of this town is between
two and three thousand, and the village contains a

«A

EBEC,

^ing little
muddy
ulf of St.
5 village,
iplain; it
a bed of
ation, at
in chan-

ugh, was
Here he
ly, 1777,
» army ;
ne time,
ivy artil-

i narrow
stIc and
uiet and
uses are
some in
od, and
nany of
the fine
o parts
rWood
etween
tains a

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 183

Presbyterian meeting-house, four ware-houses, ten
stores, and more than an hundred dwelling-houses.*

The fever and ague is now very prevalent here,
and many sallow faces, and feeble frames, are to be
seen about the streets.

The country, both up Wood Creek, and down
the lake contiguous to the town, looks as if it might
nourish fever and ague, but the inhabitants deny
that it is their inheritance, and profess to consider
the visitation of this summer as fortuitous. I am
afraid that their canal, with its stagnant waters, will
not help them to more health. A thick fog prevail-
ed here, most of the time that we were in the place,
and rendered it uncomfortable to move out of
doors till the middle of the forenoon, when it blew
away.

This will probably become a considerable place,
situated as it is, at the head of the lake navigation,
and at the point of communication, between the
Hudson and Lake Champlain. It derived some
ophomeral importance, from the local navy main-
tained on the lake, in time of war ; thrrc is a small
naval arsenal here, and at present there are a few
naval officers and men at this station.

THE OLD MAN OF THE AGE OF LOUIS XIV.

Two miles from Whitehall, on the Salem road to
Alba ny, lives Henry Francisco, a native of France,

"'VVorcefter's Gazetteer.

♦

}.J

♦ If
i

184 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEUEC.

V i'

\ \i

and of a place which he pronounced Essex ; but
doubtless this is not the orthography, and the place
was, probably, some obscure village, which may
not be noted in maps and gazetteers.

Having a few hours to spare, before the depar-
ture of the steam-boat for St. John^s, in Canada,
we rode out to see (probably,) the oldest man in
America. He believes himself to be one hundred
and thirty-four years old, and the country around
believe him to be of this great age. When we ar-
rived at his residence, (a plain farmer^s house, not
painted, rather out of repair, and much open to the
wind,) he was up stairs, at his daily work, of spool-
ing and winding yarn. This occupation is auxiliary
to that of his wife, who is a weaver, and although
more than eighty years old, weaves six yards
a day, and the old man can supply her with
more yarn than she can weave. Supposing he must
be very feeble, we offered to go up stairs to him ;
but he soon came down, walking somewhat stoop-
ing, and supported by a staff, but with less apparent
inconvenience, than most persons exhibit at eighty-
five or ninety. His stature is of the middle size, and
although his person is rather delicate and slender,
he stoops but little, even when unsupported. His
complexion is very fair and delicate, and his expres-
sion bright, cheerful, and intelligent ; his features are
handsome, and considering that they have endured
through one third part of a second century, they
are regular, comely, and, wonderfully undisfigured

' 1 Vi

i.^^^.

i^ ■■-mm «* ii»*»i

*- 1;;

JEC.

sttx f but
he place
lich may

le depar-
Canada,
: man in
hundred
Y around
n we ar-
ouse, not
;n to the
of spool-
luxiliarj
although
X yards
ler with
he must
to him ;
it stoop-
pparent
eighty-
size, and
slender,
d. His
expres-
Lires are
sndured
y, they
(figured

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 185

by the hand of time ; his eyes are of a lively blue ;
his profile is Grecian, and very tiae ; his head is
completely covered with the most beautiful and deli-
cate white locks imaginable; (hey are so long and
abundant as to fall gracefully from the crown of his
head, parting regularly from a central point, and
reaching down to his shoulders ; his hair is perfect-
ly snow white, ecxcpt where it is thick in his neck;
when parted there, it shows some few dark sliadesi
the remnants of a former century.

He still retains the front teeth of his upper jaw :
his mouth is not fallen in, like that of old people
generally, and his lips, particularly, are like those of
middle life ; his voice is strong and sweet toned,
although a little tremulous ; his hearing very little
impaired, so that a voice of usual strength, with dis-
tinct articulation, enables him to understand; his eye-
sight is sufficient for his work, and he distinguishes
large print, such as the title page of the Bible, with-
out glasses ; his health is good, and has always
been so, except that he has now a cough and ex-
pectoration.

He informed us, that his father, driven out of
France, by religious persecution, fled to Amster-
dam ; by his account, it must have been in conse-
quence of the persecutions of the French protestants,
or Hugonots, in the latter part of the reign of Louis
XIV. At Amste rdam, his father married his moth-
er, a Dutch woman, five years before he was born,
and, before that event, returned with her, into

■S

■Vt.

3»»- '-^

f .^

if^

186 TOUR BETWEKN HARTFORD AND (iVEBEC.

France. When he was five years old, his father
again fled on account of " de religion,*? as he
expressed it, (for his language, although very intel-
ligible English, is marked by French peculiarities.)
He says, he well remembers their flight, and that it
was in the winter ; for, he recollects, that as they
were descending a hill, which was covered with
snow, he cried out to his father. '* O fader, do go
back and get my little carriole,'* — (a little boy's
gliding sledge or sleigh.)

From these dates we are enabled to fix the time of
his birth, provided he is correct in the main fact, for
he says he was present at Queen Anne's coronation,
and was then sixteen years old, the 31st day of May,
old style. His father, (as he asserts,) after his re-
turn from Holland, had again been driven from
France, by persecution, and the second time took
refuge in Holland, and afterwards in England
where he resided, with his family, at the time of the
coronation of Queen Anne, in 1 702. This makes
Francisco to have been born in 1686 *, to have been
expelled from France in 1691 , and therefore, to have
completed his hundred and thirty-third year on the
eleventh of last June ; of course, he is now more
than three months advanced in his hundred and
thirty-fourth year. It is notorious, that about this
time multitudes of French protestants fled, on ac-
count of the persecutions of Louis XIV, resulting
from the revocation of the e^lict of Nantz. which oc-
curred October 12, 1685, and, uotwith&ianding the

f- i.

JEBEC.

his father
,*? as he
ery intel-
iliarities.)
ind that it
t as they
3red with
er, do go
tie boy's

lie time of
n fact, for
)ronation,
lyofMay,
ir his re-
ren from
time took
England
me of the
lis makes
ave been
}, to have
ar on the
3w more
Ired and
)out this
d, on ac-
res n I ting
hichoc-
diug the

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND q,VEBKC, 187

guards upon the frontiers, and other measures of
precaution, or rigor, to prevent emigration, it is well
known, that for years, multitudes continued to make
their escape, and that thus Louis lost six hundred
thousand of his best and most useful subjects. I
asked Francisco, if he saw Queen Anne crowned ;
he replied, with great animation, and with an ele-
vated voice, " Ah ! dat I did, and a fine looking wo-
man she was too, as any dat you will see now a-
days."*

He said he fought in all Queen Anne's wars,
and was at many battles, and under many command-
ers, but his memory fails, and he cannot remember
their names, except the Duke of Marlborough, who
was one of them.

He has been much cut up by wounds, which he
showed us, but cannot always give a very distinct
account of his warfare.

He came out, with his father, from England, to
New-York, probably early in the last century, but
cannot remember the date.

He said, pathetically, when pressed for accounts
of his military experience, "0, 1 was in all Queen
Anne's wars ; I was at Niagara, at Oswego, on the
Ohio, (in Braddock's defeat, in 1755, where he was
wounded.) 1 was carried prisoner to Quebec, (in
the revolutionary war, when he must have been at

* Fnr an unlettered man, he has very few gallit peculiaritis,
and those the common ones, such as d for tb, &c.

!^.-

' *

\i *'i

■ k

} {

f #'

/ !

188 TOUR BBTWEEI' HARTfOAD AND QUEBEC.

least ninety years old.) I fight in all sorts of wars,
all my life ; I see dreadful trouble ; and den to have
dem, we tought our friends, turn tories ; and the
British too, and fight against ourselves, O, dat was
de worst of all."

He here seemed much afiected, and almost too
full for utterance. It seems, that, during the revo-
lutionary war, he kept a tavern at Fort Edward, and
he lamente J, in a very animated manner, that the
tories burnt his house, and barn, and four hundred
bushels of grain ; this, his wife said, was the same
year that Miss M'Crea was murdered.

He has had two wives, and twenty-one children ;
the youngest child is the daughter, in whose house
he now lives, and she is fifty-two years old ; of
course, he was eiphty-two when she was born; they
suppose several of the older children are still living,
at a very advanced age, beyond the Ohio, but they
have not heard of them for several years. The fam-
ily were neighbors to the family of Miss M'Crea,
and were acquainted with the circumstances of her
tragical death.

They said, that the lover, Mr. Jones, at first, vow-
ed vengeance against the Indians, but on counting
the cost, wisely gave it up.

Henry Francisco has been, all his life, a very ac-
tive and energetic, although not a stout framed man.
He was formerly fond of spirits, and did, for a cer-
tain period, drink more than was pr./,ier, but that
habit appears to have been long abandoned.

~»,

TOUR BETWEEN IIARTFOllD ANI9 QUEBEC. 189

In other respects, he has been remarkably ab-
stemious, eating but little, and particularly, abstain-
ing, almost entirely, from animal food ; his favour-
ite articles being tea, bread and butter, and baked
apples. His wife said, that, after such a breakfast,
he would go out and work till noon ; then dine up-
on the same, if he could get it, and then take the
same at night, and particularly, that he always drank
tea, whenever he could obtain it, three cups at a
lime, three times a day.

The old man manifested a great deal of feeling,
and even of tenderness, which increased, as we
treated him with respect and kindness ; he often
i^hed tears, and particularly, when, on coming away,
we gave him money; he looked up to heaven, and
fervently thankedGod^ but did not thank u- ; he how-
everpressed ourhands very warmly, wept, and wish-
ed us every blessing, and expressed something seri-
ous with respect to our meeting in another world. He
appeared to have religious impressions on his mind,
notwithstanding his pretty frequent exclamations,
when animated, of Good Cod! O, my God! which
appeared, however, not to be used in levity, and
were probably acquired in childhood, from the al-
most colloquial "MonDieu," &c. ofthe French.
The oldest people in the vicinity, remember Fran-
cisco, as being always, from their earliest recollec-
tion, much older than themselves; and a Mr. Fuller,
who recently died hcr^, between eighty and oinetj

-*♦' '

• n

i wi

».

i :

190 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC.

years of age, thought Francisco was one hundred
and forty.

On the whole, although the evidence rests, in a
degree, on its own credibility, still, as many things
corroborate it, and as his character appears remark-
ably sincere, guileless, and affectionate, I am inclin-
ned to believe, that he is as old as he is stated to
be. He is really a most remarkable and interest-
ing old man ; there is nothing, either in its person
or dress, of the negligence and squalidness of ex-
treme age, especially when not in elevated circum-
stances; on the contrary, he is agreeable and attrac-
tive, and were he dressed in a superior manner, and
placed in a handsome and well furnished apartment,
he would be a most beautiful old man.

Little could I have expected to converse, and
shake hands with a man, who has been a soldier in
most of the wars of this country for one hundred
years — who, more than a century ago, fought under
Marlborough, in the wars of Queen Anne, and who,
(already grown up to manhood,) saw her crowned
one hundred and seventeen years since f who, one
hundred and twenty-eight years ago, and in the
century before the /«*•/, was driven from France, by
the proud, magnificent, and intolerant Loui> XIV,
and who has lived a forty -four ih part of all the tinu
that the human race have occupied this globe !

What an interview ! It is like seeing one come
back from the dead, to relate the events of centu-
ries, now swallowed up in the abyss of time ! Ex-

,,>■

EBEC.

le hundred

rests, in a
any things
irs remark-
am inclin-
s stated to
interest-
I its person
ness of ex-
,ed circum-
and attrac-
lanner, and
apartment,

iverse, and
a soldier in
ne hundred
)ught under
e, and who,
er crowned
; who, one
and in the
France, by
uou'xt' XIV,
'' all the tinu
lobe !

ig one come
ts of centu-
time ! £x-

TOTTR BETWEEN HARTFOBD AND ^UEREC. 191

cept his cough, which, they told us, had not been of
long standing, we saw nothing in Francisco's ap-
pearance, that might indicate a speedy dissolution,
and he seemed to have sufficient mental and bodily
powers, to endure for years yet to come.'^

PASSAGE DOWN LAKE CHAMPLAIN.

The carriage and horses were received on board
ihe steam-boat at Whitehall, an accommodation
which we had not expected ; and thus we avoided
the inconvenience, of having them go around by
land, to Burlington in Vermont, to wait our return
from Canada. The steam-boat lay in a wild glen,
immediately under a high, precipitous, rocky hill,
and not far from the roaring outlet of Wood Creek ;
we almost drop down upon the port, all on a sud-
den, and it strikes one like an interesting discovery,
in a country, so wild, and so far inland, as to present,
in other respects, no nautical images or realities.

We left Whitehall between two and three o'clock
in the afternoon, in the Congress, a neat and rapid
boat, and the only ono romninins on the lake, since
the late awful catastrophe of the Phoenix.

The lake, for many miles, after it receives Wood
Creek, is, in fact, nothing more, than a narrow slug-
gish river, passing, without apparent motion, among
high, rocky, and even mountainous ridges, between

* Fie difld the year after, of the fever and ag;ue. Iti24

192 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBLC.

whose feet and the lake, there is, generally, a con-
siderable extent of low, wet, marshy ground, of a
most unpromising appearance, for any purpose, but
to produce fever and ague, unless by and by, it
should by dykeing and ditching, be rescued, like
Holland, from the dominion of the water, and con-
certed to the purposes of agriculture.

The channel, through which we passed, is, for
miles, so narrow, that the steam-boat could scarcely
put about in it, and there seemed hardly room for
the passage of the little sloops, which we frequently
met going up to Whitehall. At the very head of this
natural canal, lie moored, to the bank, stem and
stern, the flotillas* of McDonough and Downie,
now, by the catastrophe of battle, united into one.

As we passed rapidly by, a few seamen showed
their heads through the grim port-holes, from which,
five years ago, the cannon poured fire and death,
and we caught a glimpse of the decks, that were

* It was a great piece of self-denial to me, not to go on board
of this flotilla, but, (a circumstance >\hich I should not otherwise
mention,) I was, all the time we were at Whitehall, and indeed
all (he way to Montreal, in a state of sever* sufforing. IVom «a
«gu^.luu.J fi^wv ouu tieau, wnicu obliged me to avoid the damp
air, and the damp meadows, where the flotilla lay, moored to the
natural baBk of the creek.'"

* When 1 passed this place in June 1821, these vessels were ly-
B^ a little way down the lake, mere wreck*, sunken, neglected
and in ruins— scarcely seven years from the time of the fjorco
contention, by which they were lost and won. (1824.

'ih

JLC.

y, a con-
jnd, of a
30se, but
id by, it
ued, like
ind con-

J, is, for
I scarcely
room for
equently
ad of this
tern and
Downie,
into one.
showed
m which,
i death,
lat were

on board
otherwise
ml indeed
IVom na
the damp
ed to the

wpre ly-

neglected

le fioroo

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 193

then covered with the mutilated and the slain, and
deluged with their generous blood.

Sparless, black and frowning, these now disman-
tled ships, look like the coffins of the brave, and
will remain, as long as worms and rot will allow
them, sad monuments of the bloody conflict.

Our passage down the lake presented nothing
particularly interesting, except the grandeur of the
double barrier of mountains, which, although much
inferior in height to those of Lake George, are still
very bold and commanding.

It seems as if the lake had been poured into the
only natural basin, of magnitude, which exists in
this mountainous region, and as if its boundaries
were irrevocably fixed, by the impassable barriers
of rocks and alpine land.

The mountains, particularly on the eastern side,
presenting to the eye their na4ced precipitous cliflTs,
composed of the edges of the strata, were gneiss
at Whitehall, and limestone as we proceed down
the lake towards Ticonderoga. From Lake George
to Luke Champlaii), they are primitive. At White-
hall, the rocks have a very beautiful stratification ;
the hills appear as if cracked in two, and one part
being removed, we have a fine vertical section ;
both their horizontal and perpendicular divisions,
resemble a regular piece of masonry, and this is
the prevailing fact, as we pass down the lake.

The dip of these strata ofgnciss, which is to the east,
is very moderate, not exceeding a few degrees, and

17* >

^ Mil

194 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC.

this appeared to be the general fact. On our ride
from Fort Anne to Whitehall, the road passed down
one of the natural declivities, formed by the dip of
the rock ; for several hundred feet, in the direction
of the road, the carriage rattled over this perfect-
ly naked and smooth natural pavement. 1 had, to-
day, DO opportunity to land, to inspect the rocks,
but, as the boat often passed very near the cliffs,
sometimes within a few yards, I was sufficiently
satisfied, concerning their general nature.

During our passage of twenty-five miles, to Ti-
conderoga, we had a fine descending sun, shining in
full strength, upon the bold scenery of the lake, and
that I might enjoy it, undisturbed by the bustle of
a crowded deck, f took my seat in the carriage,
where I was protected equally from the fumes of
the boat, and the chill of the air, and could, at my
leisure, catch every variety of images, and all the
changes of scenery, that were passing before me.
It was with very great regret, that 1 found we could
not stop, even for a moment, at Ticonderoga and
Crown Point; and it was not till 1 had devised and
dismissed several abortive plans for leaving the boat
and getting on afterwards, or in some other way,
that I submitted to pass these interesting places.

The sun, setting in splendor, shot his last beams
over Mount Defiance, as we came in sight of it, and
the commmencing twilight, softened by the first ap-
proaches of evening, which was not yet so far ad-

:b£C.

TOUR BETWEEN UARTFORO AND QUEBEC. 195

n our ride
ssed down
the dip of
} direction
is perfect-
I had, to-
the rocks,
the cliffs,
efficiently
e.

les, to Ti-
shining in
: lake, and
e bustle of
: carriage,
fumes of
uld, at my
id all the
efore me.
1 we could
leroga and
evised and
)g the boat
ther way,
places.
last beams
t of it, and
le first ap-
so far ad-

vanced, as to throw objects into obscurity, cast a
pensive veil over the site and ruins of

TICONDEROGA.

The remains of this celebrated fortress, once so
highly important, but no longer, an object either of
hope or fear, are still considerably conspicuous. As
we came up with, and, from the narrowness of the
lake, necessarily passed very near them, I was grati-
fied, as much as I could be, without landing, by a
view of their ruins, still imposing in their appear-
ance, and possessing, with all their associations, a
high degree of heroic grandeur.

They stand on a tongue of land, of considerable
elevation, projecting south, between Lake Cham-
plain, which winds around and passes on the east,
and the passage into Lake George, which is on the
west.

The remains of the old works are still conspicu-
ous;, and the old stone barracks, erec ted by the
French, are in part standing.

This fort was built by the French ; and Lord
Howe, and many other gallant men, lost their lives
in the enterprize against it in 1758.

From this fortress, issued many of those fero-
cious incursions of French and Indians, which for-
merly distressed the English settlements ; and its
fall, in 1759, (when, on the approach of General

1 in

• ^

* ■■>

i ,

196 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND t^UEBEC.

Amherst with a powerful army, it was abandoned
by the French, without fighting,) filled the northern
colonies with joy.

In 1 777, great hopes were reposed upon this for-
tress, as a barrier against invasion ; it was regarded
as beingemphatically the strong hold of the North ;
and when General Burgoyne, with astonishing ef-
fort, dragged cannon up the precipices of Mount
Defiance, and showed them on its summit, Ticondc-
roga, no longer tenable, was precipitately aban-
doned.

Mount Defiance stands on the outlet of Lake
George, and between that and Lake Champlain,
and most completely commands Ticonderoga, which
is far below, and within fair cannon shot. On the
slightest glancQ at the scene, it is a matter of utter
astonishment, even to one who is not a military
man, how so important a point came to be over-
looked by all preceding commanders : probably it
arose from the belief, which ought not to have been
admitted till the experiment had been tried, that it
was impossible to convey cannon to its summit.* —
On the right is Mount Independence, where there
was a formidable fort at the time of General Bur-
goyne's invasion.

The shadows of the night were descending on
the venerable Ticonderoga, as we left it; and when

* It appears, that the Americans held a council of war, in which
it was debated whether they should occupy Mount Defiance, but
as they had not men enough to man the existing works, the thin$
was never attempted.

;t>f

1EC»

>andoned
northern

1 this for-
regarded
e North ;
shing ef-
)f Mount
Ticonde-
i\y aban-

of Lake

lamplain,

;a, which

On the

r of utter

miiitarj

be over-

)bably it

ive been

d, that it

nmit.*—

re there

ral Bur-

iding on
nd when

r, in which
»fiance, but
B) the thiD^

TOUR BETVTEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 197

i looked upon its walls and environs, so long and so
often clustering with armies— formidable for so great
a length of time in all the apparatus and prepara-
tions of war, and the object of so many campaigns
and battles ; but now, exhibiting only a solitary
smoke, curling from a stone chimney in its half-
fallen barracks, with not one animated being in sight ;
while its massy ruins, and the beautiful green de-
clivities, sloping on all sides to the water, were still
and motionless as death, I felt indeed that I was be-
holding a striking emblem of the mutability of power,
and of the fluctuations of empire. Ticonderoga, no
longer within the confines of a hostile country — no
longer a rallying point for ferocious savages and
for formidable armies — no more a barrier against
invasion, or an object of seige or assault, hai now
become only a pasture for cattle.

At Ticonderoga, the lake takes a sudden but
short turn to the right, and forms a small bay, with
Mount Defiance on the left. Mount Independence
on the right, and Ticonderoga in front. This scene
is very fine, and the whole outline of the spot — the
mountains near, and the mountains at a distance —
the shores — the bay — and the ruins, all unite to
make a very grand landscape.

Night was upon us, before we were up with
Crown Point, that other scarcely less celebrated, or
less important fortress. The moon served only to
enable me dimly to see undefined masses of stone

r '

198 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC.

and earth, as a bystander observed, '' there are the
ruins of Crown Point !"

Almost every thing that has been said historical-
ly of Ticonderoga, is applicable to Crown Point,
only there has not been much blood shed before its
walls. This fortress also, was built by the French ;
it was equally annoying to the English Colonies as
Ticonderoga ; its reduction was as ardently desired,
and as many campaigns were undertaken for this
purpose. Like Ticonderoga, it was retained by
the French till 1769, when it was quietly abandon-
ed by them, and Lord Amherst, on taking posseS'
sion of it, built an entire new fortress of stone, and
made it much more formidable than before.

The next season but one after the above re-
marks were written, I enjoyed the opportunity
which I had long desired of examining the ruins of
Ticonderoga. Mr. S. F. B. Morse and myself af-
ter having proceeded (as already mentioned,) by
water from the head of Lake George to its outlet,
landed at the village of Ticonderoga, and proceed-
ed to view the interesting objects of the peninsula.
The first thing that will strike the traveller, is a
fine cascade produced by the waters of Lake
George rushing down the ledges of rock which form
the beirrier between it and lake Champlain. The
diiference of level between the two lakes is vari-

'V-

■^rfTr

UEBCC.

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 199

ere are the

I historical-
own Point,
d before its
he French ;
Colonies as
tly desired,
en for this
retained by
y abandon-
cing posseS'
f stone, and
fore.

1 above re-
opportunity
the ruins of
d myself af-
ktioned,) by
to its outlet,
nd proceed-
e peninsula,
iveller, is a
rs of Lake
: which form
plain. The
ikes is vari-

»usly stated by different authors. Worcester's Ga-
zetteer, and Morses Geography (the Edition of
1832,) place it at about 100 feet. As the waters
of Lake George perform the greater part of this
descent, within a very short distance, they form a
very fine cataract, and at the same time furnish am-
ple water power for mills and manufactories, se-
veral of which are established upon the bank. The
village of Ticonderoga is uninteresting ; but it will
furnish the traveller with a waggon and a guide for
the purpose of exploring the peninsula. The voy-
ager on Lake George will of course carry with him,
interesting recollections of its military history, and
especially of the ill-fated expedition of General
Abercrombie whose departure from the head of the
Lake, I have already mentioned.

" On the fifth of July, 1758, the whole army ex-
cept a reserve, left for the protection of this spot,
embarked in a thousand and thirty five boats with
all the splendour of military parade. The morn-
ing was remarkably bright and beautiful, and the
fleet moved with exact regularity to the sound of
fine martial music. The ensigns waved and glit-
tered in the sun-beams : and the anticipation
of future triumph shone in every eye. Above, be-
neath, around, the scenery was that of enchantri
ment, and rarely has the sun, since that luminary
was first lighted up in the heavens, dawned on such
a complication of beauty and magnificence."*

* President D wights travels Vol. 3 pp. 381-2.

.*«

•1

i ■

■• I,

'ti

."J

) ■. '

V ■
fl.

'VH-

•

200 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND (QUEBEC.

Next morning July the 6th, this fine army, by far
the finest that had then been assembled in America,
having disembarked at the outlet of Lake George,
began its march in four columns for the fort of Ti-
conderoga, distant only three miles. The country
was in deep forest and the guides being unskilful,
the army fell into confusion. At that moment the
right centre column, led on by Lord Howe, fell in
with the enemy's advance guard which was retreat-
ing towards Ticonderoga. — This party also had lost
its way in the woods, but they attacked the Eng-
lish , and at the first fire Lord Howe,* the pride and
hope of the army fell.f The provincial troops,
however, accustomed to this species of warfare, re-
pelled the attack and destroyed the party, consist-
ing of nearly five hundred.

It can never be sufficiently regretted that meas-
ure* had not been taken to transport a few cannon
to the top of Mount Defiance, a measure which
General Burgoyne, nineteen years afterwards, pro-
ved to be perfectly practicable, for then Ticondero-
ga would have surrendered without firing a gun,
and the disgraceful and bloody tragedy would have
been prevented. At least, cannon should have been
brought to attack the lines. But Gen. Abercrom-
bje, who does not appear ever to have seen the

■u J!

*Lord Howe fell at a distance from the shore of the Lake — Gen-
eral Hoyt informs me that he has very nearly ascertained the
exact spot.

t Doct. Dwight's travels.

;l^/

^.'-•^ .

• Wr

,UEBEC.

pmy, by far
1 America,
e George,
fort of Ti-
le country
; unskilful,
Dment the
we, fell in
as retreat-
so had lost
the £ng-
pride and
al troops,
arfare, re-
r, consist-

lat meas-
V cannon

re which
ards, pro-
icondero-
ng a gun,
>uld have
lavebeen
hercrom-

seen the

,ake — Gen-
rtaiaed the

TOUR BETWEEN HARTPORD AND <IUEBEC. 301

French lines md relying upon the report of his en*
gineers that the works could be carried by assault,
gave orders for the army to advance immediately
to the attack. As wr advanced from the mills over
the same ground still covered (as it was then)
in a great measure by wood, we descried the
lines, still in line preservation, running quite across
the peninsula, and winding down its shores on both
sides, making a circuit of 3-4 of a mile, we were
forcibly struck with the madness of the attempt.
The parapet, especially in the front of the work,
where the principal assault was made, is still tena-
ble, and would at this moment, without repair, form
a better defence than the Americans enjoyed at
Bunker's Hill. The ditch is even now very deep— -
I descended into it and found that the parapet was
higher than the top of my head, so that I can readi-
ly believe that it was originally, as stated by histo-
rians, eight or nine feet high.* In front of this
work, the trees were felled so as to interweave their
branches, and present their points (sharpened by
axes) in every direction, so as to form the most im-
penetrable abattis. The assailants had no cannon and
marched up in solid columns, fully exposed to the
tremendous fire of their enemy, both from small

* Doct. Dwight (travels, p. 383,) remarks that wheo be aaw
the lines, they were oot more than four fieet high, and expresses a
doubt whether they were ever more than six — this is true uf the
wings— But in front where, alone the attack was made, their ap-
pearance was still very formidable.

w ^r^

202 TOUR BETWEEN HAUTfORD AND QUEBEC.

't I

' Jl

•i

•^'■-

arms and artillery, while the enemy was per-
fectly secure within their entrenchments, and scarce-
ly sustained any loss during four hours that the at-
tack was sustained. The English and Provincials,
entangled in the fatal abattis, presented a sure mark
for the deliberate aim of the enemy, and poured
their generous blood like water upon the ground,
while the greater part of the army, from the nar-
rowness of the point of attack, were necessarily in-
active, and their General at, the distance of two
miles, was ignorant in a great measure of their sit-
uation, and neglected to give the order for retreat,
till nearly two thousand of his finest troops, had
fallen either with wounds or in death. Several
times, did small parties of the highlanders mount
the works, but they were slaughtered or repelled
before they could receive any adequate a'^sistance.
No attack was made upon the wings where the
works were the weakest, nor did the General avail
himself of his great numerical superiority (for the
enemy had not over three thousand men, and ac-
cording to some accounts not above half that num-
ber,) to assault all parts of the works, at once when
there can be little doubt, that the assailants would
have been at some point successful. —As the attack
was conducted, it was a scene of mere slaughter,
worse than the affair of Bunker's Hill or Montmo-
renci, and as bad as that of New-Orleans?.*

*The army, after this battle, retreated precipitately to the head
of Lake Georg^o, and the retreat was ev%n more disgraceful, than

■-.v

bec.

was per-
ndscarce-
lat the at-
ovincials,
sure mark
d poured
e ground,
the nar-
searily in-
:e of two

* their sit-
Dr retreat,
9ops, had

Several
ers mount

• repelled
["sistance.
»rhere the
leral avail
y (for the
, and ac-
that num-
mce when
nts would
the attack
slaughter,

Montmo-

y to the head
raceful, than

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND «tUEBEC. 203

After entering the old French lines, which are
nearly half a mile distant from the fort of Ticonde-
roga, we come to a fine parade ground sufficient for
the evolutions of many thousands. It slopes gently
to the south, and terminates at the walls of Ti-
conderoga, the ancient fortress erected by the
French. This fortress, although in ruins, is well
worthy of being visited by every traveller. After
all the dilapidations of time and of man, Ticonde-
roga, with its mutilated walls and barracks, and
with its picturesque environs, presents one of the fin-
est ruins in America. Happily the garrison ground,
constituting a .'arm of about six hundred acres, and
including the old Freneh lines, as well as the forts
and barracks, has fallen into the hands of a gentle-
man,''^ whose good sense and just taste will not per-
mit a stone to be removed. — This scene, fine in its
natural beauty and grandeur, and still finer in its
historical associations, may therefore go down to
posterity without further mutilation. The rock of
which the walls and barracks of Ticonderoga are
built, is a black fetid compact limestone. It
abounds in this region, and constitutes the ledges on
the shores of the contiguous part of Vermont. It?;
stratification is nearly horizontal, and it is filled
with organized remains, corallines, bivalves, he. —
At New Shoreham, which is immediately opposite

the previous battle. Full 14,000 effective men still remained,
and it was slill entirely vr ifhin the power of this army to have re-
diiced Ticonileroga even without another Btrtiggle.

♦ Mr. iVlUof Ncw-Yorlf.

■ I'

\ m

ii\n

"204 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND <IUEBEC.

1 1

i^>

to TicoDderoga, they informed us that the water of
wells dug in this Hmestone is ofTensive, and unfit
for use. Hence the inhabitants use the water of
the lake, and they provide ice houses, that the wa-
ter may, in warm weather, be rendered agreeably
cool.

The walls, the barracks, the subterraneous mag-
azines, the kitchens and store rooms, the covered
ways and advanced works of Ticonderoga are of sol
id masonry. When this fortress was precipitately
abandoned in the Revolutionary war, by the army
under Gen. St. Clair, it was blown up and set on
fire. The explosion removed the roof and over-
threw a part of the walls of the barracks ; but enough
remains to give one a perfect idea of the structure,
and to form a ruin well worthy of the pencil. The
half burnt timbers still remain in the walls, and
the subterraneous structures as well as the proper
walls of the fort have escaped with little injury
from the hand of violence and of time. The south
gate of the fort, is the one at which Gen. Arnold,
entered, when he surprised the British garrison at
the commencement of the American war. The
Grenadier's battery, as it is still called, is at the
southern point of the peninsula at the water's edge,
and is terminated by perpendicular cliffs of lime-
stone rock. On the shore at the landing place is
one of the old stone store-housses which is now
used as a (avern. On the continent, on the oppo-
site side of the lake, are the remains of the fort oa

(^oV. GtVa^vv tVajI/VS. c»h«.A e«vvw^

Ol.^.^^'T- a, t*/«-V t^^v\'V*-^vt'

K<f^

Cw«« C_»AA*iA^

^JC».vw4j,

—X'

7s?r

JEBEC.

J water of
and unfit
water of
t the wa-
igreeably

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 205

Mount Independence, to which the main body of
the American army retreated in July, 1777, when
pursued by Gen. Burgoyne.

1^ "^

ous mag-
covered
ire of sol
:ipitately
the army
d set on
nd over-
it enough
tructure,
:il. The
alls, and
s proper
e injury
le south
Arnold

rison
r.

at
The
at the
's edge,
}f lime-
>lace is
is now
» oppo-
fort OQ

ft -.

A NIGHT ON LAKE CHAMPLAIN.

The recent loss of the Phcenix, and the tragical
events by which it was accompanied, might well
have caused us some anxiety, in the prospect of a
night passage on the lake ; but the weather was fine
and the water smooth, and we had a good boat,
furnished with a gentleman's cabin on deck. As
1 was, however, scarcely able to sleep at all, I
passed most of the night in the carriage, both
as being a pleasant situation, and as affording mc
some opportunity of observing the tire, the man-
agement of which 1 was willing enough to see. I
am sorry to say, that 1 was disappointed in not ob-
serving that anxious vigilance, which, after the late
dreadful occurrence, we should naturally expect to
find. Large piles of pine wood, very dry, of
course, and also very hot, from their being placed
near the furnace and boilers, occupied the middle
of the vessel. A candle was plac(3d by one of the
people on a projecting end of a stick of Ihis wood.
It had burned nearly down, and a fresh north wind
blew the flame directly towards, and almost against
the pine slivers, which were very dry and full of

• 18*

, »

/ Jl

^^ r /

306 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC.

% turpentine, and therefore in a condition to catch
fire with the greatest ease. Happily, from the

contiguous carriage window, Mr. W obsorv-

ed this threatening candle, and after some impor-
tunity with the people, (who seemed very indiffe-
rent to the danger,) succeeded in having it removed.
It might, very naturally, have caused the Congress
to share the fate of the Phcenix, which was burnt,
by a candle placed in a situation of less apparent
danger ; that is, near a shelf in a closet, where it
communicated fire to the board. ""^

We found one other unpleasant circumstance:
the boat stopped several times, at different places,
on the two shores of the lake, to deliver and re-
ceive freight, and our captain being extremely dila-
tory, we were delayed one and two hours at a
place.

»/?'» ')

SCENERY, PLATTSBURGH,it-c.

At three o'clock in the morning, we stopped at
Burlington, and left the carriage and horses with
the young man to takf care of them, till our return
from Canada. It was day-light before we left this
place, and the morning presented a scene so simi-

• On our return, we found the Cofigress under a new captain,
and a much more strict police, which left no farther room to
com^flain of negligence.

H'i

EBEC.

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC, 207

I to catch
from the
— obsorv-
me impor-
ry indiffe*
I; removed.
5 Congress
was burnt,
s apparent
, where it

umstance :
3nt places,
2r and re-
imely dila-
ours at a

topped at
Jises with
)ur return
e left this
e so simi-

lar to Long-Island Sound, that we could hardly
persuade ourselves that we were on fresh water.
Although the weather was fair, and we could see
the most distant shores, the high mountains were
hardly distinguishable, being shrouded in vapor.

Early in the forenoon, we were in Plattsburgh
Bay, and passed over the scene of Commodore
McDonough's brilliant victory ; an event singular-
ly decisive in its circumstances, momentous in its
results, and honorable in the highest degree to that
able and gallant commander.

At this memorable place, (the only one since we
left Ticonderoga and Crown Point, where a long
delay would hare been grateful,) we had time only
to walk a little way towards the village, and to visit
one of the batteries, signalized in September, 1814,
in repelling the enemy from the pas^sage of the
Saranac. Dr. L. Foot,* of the army, caused the
little time wc had to spend, to pass both agreeably
and usefully ; but we were soon again under way,
and doubling Cumberland Head, round which the
brave but unfortunate Commodore Downie sailed,
to defeat and death, we left the beautiful Bay of
Plattsburgh, with all its grand and interesting asso-
ciations, m^

''' A friend, and for eeyeral years a pupil.

new captain,
her room to

208 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND (QUEBEC.

ENTRANCE INTO CANADA.

Fi \ (

;/.,

I p^

Our passage down the remainder of the lake was
very rapid, and we soon arrived at the American
custom-house; the boat was visited, but our bag-
gage was not examined, and we were treated with
the greatest civility.

This ceremony, (for it was a ceremony, merely,)
being over, we were very soon abreast of the great
stone castle, resembling that on Governor's Island,
at New- York. It was erected by the American
government, on Rouse's Point, upon the western
side of the entrance into the river Sorel or Riche-
lieu, and was designed to command the communi-
cation between that river and Lake Champlain.
In consequence of a late determination that the
boundary line (the 45th degree of latitude,) passes
a little south of this castle, it now falls to the Brit-
ish government.

The current favored our progress, and we push-
ed on very impetuously through the quiet waters
of this very considerable river, whose smooth sur-
face was thrown into waves by our rapid course.
The country, on both sides, is the most uninterest-
ing that can well be imagined. It is a low wet
swamp, not redeemed, like Holland, but, to a con-
siderable extent, too much covered by water to
admit of immediate cultivation. A few patches of
clear and dry land, and a few pi^ti hamlets, appear
here and there, but there is no village worth men

V .

• BEC*

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 209

5 lake was
American
t our bag-
sated with

, merely,)
r the great
>r^s Island,
American
le western
or Riche-
communi-
Ihamplain.
I that the
le,) passes
) the Brit-

I we push-
let waters
nooth sur-
d course,
ninterest-
i low wet
to a con-
water to
)atche8 of
ts, appear
orth men

lioning, in the whole distance of twenty miles to St.
John's. The land appears to the eye as if it were
even lower than the water, and we naturally think
of fevers and of agues, which, however, are said to
be of rare occurrence, and are probably prevented
by a temperate climate. At some future day, should
this country become populous, this low marshy land,
which is probably fertile, may be rescued from the
water, by the same means which have caused such
scenes of richness and beauty to be exhibited in
Holland.

The only very interesting object in the river, is
the Isle aux Noix, eleven miles from the frontier,
and eight or nine from St. John's. The glitter of
arms — the splendor of the British uniform— the im-
posing appearance of ramparts and cannon — the
beauty of the log barracks of the officers, painted
in stripes — and the bustle of military activity, of
course excited a degree of interest, and afforded an
agreeable relief from the dull scenes of forests and
swamps.

The Isle aux Noix, is important in time of war,
as being the frontier British post, and has been,
many times, a point of rendezvous for armies and
flotillas, not only for the invaders, but for the de-
fenders of Canada.

We both left and received passengers at this isl-
and, but without going ourselves on shore, and less
than one hour from the time we left it brought us
to the wharf at St. John's, in Lower Canada; we

, t •

/ M

■t

,i' m

210 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC.

arrived before night on the 30th of September, ten
days from our leaving Hartford.* 'r

' !•

» !•

I t

»,

ST. JOHNS, AND DEPARTURE FOR MONTREAL.

St. John*s. — 1 scarcely saw any thing more ol
this little town, than what might be observed in
passing to the inn, where we found attention and
kindness, but a house so crowded th» we were very
willing to leave it on our way to Montreal.

We did not go, with most of our steam boat com-
panions in the stage, which went on in the night, to
La Prairie, but the next morning were furnished
with an extra conveyance, in which we proceeded
on our journey. There are good stages at St. John's,
exactly like the most common kind of American
stage coaches, or rather stage waggons, and they
are furnished with good horses. Indeed, we were
informed that these establishments were set up by
Americans, whose enterprize and activity are re-
markably contrasted with the unvarying habits of
the native Canadians.

The private carriage in which we travelled, was
an old fashioned hack, such as might have been
seen in American towns twenty or twenty-five years
ago; the canvass curtains, (without windows,) were
torn, had few or no strings to secure them in place,

* Such is the expedition of the public vehicles, that this dh-
tanoe maij/ be travelled in three days.

W-'

iUEREC.

(ember, ten

DNTREAL.

ng more oi
observed iti
ttcntion and
re were very
eal.

tn boat com-
the night, to
ire furnished
e proceeded
at St. John's,
of American
ns, and thej
!ed, we were
jre set up by
ivity are re-
ng habits of

avelled, was
t have been
ity-five years
idows,) were
lem in place,

es, that this db-

TOUR BETWSEN HARTFORD ASh QUEBEC. 21 1

and flapping in a brisk head wind, they served to
let in rather than to exclude the cold air, an^ ^ry
imperfectly screened us from a driving rain. Our
coachman was a Vermont lad, who had emigrated
in childhood, along with his parents, but he had not
caught the Canadian tardiness of movement, for he
drove us at a great rate, over a road very level, but
by no means smooth ; we were, however, willing
to bear pretty severe jolting, for the sake of expe-
dition.

We had an interesting ride of twelve miles, on
the left bank of the Sorel river, which murmured
along by our side, and were charmed with the com-
fortable white cottages, constructed very neatly of
hewn logs, and forming apparently dry and warm
dwellings. Almost every moment we met the cheer-
ful looking peasants, driving their little carts, (char-
rettes,) drawn by horses of a diminutive size. The
men were generally standing up in the body of the
cart, with their lighted pipes in their mouths, and
wore red or blue sashes, and long conical woollen
caps, of various colors. These carts were furnished
with high rails, and occasionally with seats, occupi-
ed by females and children; they appeared (like our
one horse waggons,) to furnish the most common
accommodation for transporting both commodities
and persons.

We gave our horses a few moments of rest at
Chambly, but were prevented by the rain from
leaving our inn. I regretted this, however, the less,

k^,

r •';"♦

212 TOUB RKTWEEN BARTFOlUi AND QUEBEC.

as we expected to return through the same place,
and might be more favorably situated. »

We lost no time in resuming our journey, and
drove, in less than three hours to Longueil, through
a perfectly level country, well cultivated, fertile,
considerably populous, and furnished with very
neat and comfortable white houses, constructed of
hewn logs, like those on the Sorel river. The
barns, frequently of a large size, were usually built
in the same manner ; but the want of good frame
work was very obvious in their frequently distorted
appearance.

FIRST GLIMPSE OF MONTREAL.

p 1

At the village of Longueil, or a little before ar-
riving there, we cr\ught the first view of Montreal.
The first impression of this city is very pleasing.
In its turrets and steeples, glittering with tin ; in its
thickly built streets, stretching between one and
two miles along the river, and rising gently from it ;
in its environs, ornamented with country houses
and green fields ; in the noble expanse of the St.
Lawrence, sprinkled with islands ; in its foaming
and noisy rapids; and in the bold ridge of the
mountain, which forms the back ground of the city,
we recognize all the features necessary to a rich
and magnificent landscape, and perceive among
these indications, decisive proofs of a flourishing
inland emporium.

[JEBEC.

ame place.

urney, and
3il, through
ed, fertile,
with very
istructed of
ver. The
sually built
;ood frame
y distorted

before ar-
' Montreal.

pleasing,
tin; in its

one and
ly from it ;
try houses
of the St.
s foaming
^e of the
)f the city,

to a rich
ve among
Sourishing

TOUIl BETWEEN UARTFOBD ANn (^i ftnBC. 31 }

PASSAGE OF THE ST. LAWRENCE.

If we experienced some elevation of feeling at
the first view of the St. Lawrence, we were not
likely to have our pride cherished by the means
which conveyed us over this mighty river. Two
Canadian boatmen ferried us over in a canoe, hol-
lowed out of a single log. Our baggage being duly
placed, we were desired to sit, face to face, on
some clean straw, placed on boards, which lay
across the bottom of the boat: we were situated
thus low, that our weight might not disturb the
balance of the canoe, and we were requested to
sit perfectly still. Our passage was to be nearly
three miles obliquely up the stream, and a part of
the way against some powerful rapids.

Between us and Montreal, considerably up the
river, lay the brilliant island of St. Helena. It
is elevated, commands a fine view of the city, is
strongly marked by entrenchments, is fertile, and
covered in part with fine timber. It is a domain,
and we were much struck with the beautiful situa-
tion of the house on the south side of the island, be-
longing to the Baroness Lonqueil. With the island

and river, it would form a fine subject for a pic-
ture.
Our boatmen conveyed us, without much difli-

culty, to the southern point of this island, between

which, and the city, owing to the compression of

the river by the island, a powerful rapid rushes

>\}

i '

2t4 TOUR BETWEEN HAATFOIID AMI ^VEhEti.

along, with much agitation, and a current, which il
is very difficult to stem. At the point of the isl-
and, particularly, a branch of the river, confined
by rocks^ dashes along, almost with the rapidity of
water bursting from a flood gate. Through this
strait it was necessary to pass, and, for some time,
the boat went back, and even after landing us on
the island, the canoe was coming around, broadside
to the current, when we were apprehensive that
our baggage must be thrown into the river ; but, by
main strength, they pushed the boat through this
torrent, and along the shore of the island, till the
rapid became so moderate, that they ventured again
to take us in, and push for the city. It took these
poor fellows a toilsome hour to convey us over,
and they demanded but a pittance for their ser-
vices.

FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF MONTREAL.

We mounted a steep slippery bank, from the
river, and found ourselves in one of the principal
streets of the city. It required no powerful effort
of the imagination, to conceive that we were arri-
ved in Europe. A town, compactly built of stone,
without wood or briok, indicating permanency, and
even a degree of antiquity, presenting some hand-
some public and private buildings, an active and nu>
merous population, saluting the ear with two Ian-

r£B£C>'.

it, which it
of the isl-
', confined
rapidity of
irough this
some time,
ding us on
, broadside
ensive that
jr ; but, by
irough this
id, till the
lured again
took these
ly us over,
their ser-

AL.

:, from the
le principal
erful effort
were arri-
ilt of stone,
nency, and
some hand-
ive and nu-
[h two lan-

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND qUEHEC'. '215

guages, but principally with the French— every
thing seems foreign, and we easily feel that we are
a great way from home.

ACCOMMODATIONS OF A PUBLIC HOUSE.

We wert no sooner ushered into the mansion-
house,'^ a vast building, constructed of hewn stone,
than we could easily imagine ourselves in one of
the principal coffee-houses of London. Assiduity,
quiet, and, in a word, domestic comfort, in every
particular, except the absence of the family circle,
were at once in our possession.

The master of the house was an Englishman,
and, having been brought up in a London coffee-
house, he very naturally transferred all that is desi-
rable and comfortable, in the habits of those estab-
lishments, to his own, in Montreal.

Being worn out with suffering, from the cause
which I mentioned at WliitehalJ, I was obliged to
betake myself immediately to ray room and bed ;
but I was not permitted to feel that I was a stran-
ger ; so prompt were the attentions, and so appro-
priate the various little comforts and refreshments,
that were provided and administered.

The next morning, having obtained complete re-
lief, from what I had not expected, superior surgical

* Siuce destroyed by fire.

Vi ,

**^ V '**!. ..>^.ii*.. ■^* •» . If ^

— » -.-*,,

216 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC.

skill,*. I was enabled to begin to enjoy, as well as to
see the new objects around me.

MANNERS OF THE GUESTS.

Dinner here, is at five o'clock ; soup was ready,
however, at almost any previous hour, and we par-
took of this refreshment, not having been recently
accustomed to so late an hour for dinner. We
found at table, a small party of very respectable
men, apparently Englishmen ; and we were partic-
ularly and agreeably struck, with the gentlemanly
manners of every individual at table, where, al-
though the guests were strangers to us, and proba-
bly most of them to each other, all were polite,
attentive, and sociable, without that selfish indiffe-
rence, or rude familiarity, so common at some public
tables, where a correct medium seems hardly to be
understood.

The manners of this circle were particularly con-
trasted with those of a certain group, which we had
encountered during our tour, and from which it was
impossible, at the time, to make our escape. They
were noisy, drinking, swearing, card-playing gentle^
men; and of all ages, from twenty to sixty, but in
their manners so alike, that youth and age were
fitly associated.

'" In a mode 9uffici«nlly curiam and origitml, which I rhull
meDtion further oo.

JEBEC.

3 well as to

was ready,
id we par-
n recently
ner. We
espectable
sre partic-
intlemanly
vhere, al-
ind proba-
ere polite,
ill indiffe-
)me public
rdly to be

larly con-
5h we had
lich it was
e. They
ng gentle'
:ty, but in
age were

bich I !<)iull

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 217

We began, at evening, to receive the calls of
those to whom we had letters, particularly of some
of our own countrymen, and obtained at once, all
the local information which we needed, to direct
our immediate movements, and to enable us to form
and mature our plans.

EVENING SCENES ON THE ST. LAWRENCE.

The weather being mild and tine, parlor fires
were not yet kindled in Canada, but, as we prefer-
red a fire for ourselves, we retired at evening into a
very largs and well furnished room, with a bow
end, and overlooking a terrace, thirty feet wide, and
one hundred and forty-four long, which is the
length of the house. This terrace is thirty feet
above the river, immediately on its brink, and com-
mands a view of it, for many miles up and down the
stream, and of the country on the other shore, thus
presenting a most delightful prospect. This room
was our parlor, while we remained in the house,
and we were particularly fond of viewing from its
windows, and from the terrace below, the fine scenes
of twilight and evening, on the St. Lawrence.

We had anticipated some inconvenience, in visit-
ing Canada, so late in the season, on account of the
shortness of tho days ; but the long and bright twi-
light, both at morning and evening, made wi ample

19*

t. if ■' •

■ /
'f

kt.v '

M»

*il8 TOUll BETWEEN MARTFOKD AND (lUEBCC.

amends, and we found as much light as we left be-
hind us, although less of sunshine. At half after
five, with the sun down, and the moon at the full, in
the firmament, we sit at the dinner table, apparently
In broad day light.

From the moment the sun is down, every thing
becomes silent on the shore, which our windows
overlook, and the murmurs of the broad St. Law-
rence, more than two miles wide, immediately be-
fore us and a little way to the right, spreading to
five or six miles in breadth, are, sometimes for an
hour, the only sounds that arrest our attention. Ev-
ery evening since we have been iiere, black clouds
and splendid moonlight have hung over, and embel-
lished this tranquil scene ; and, on two of those
evenings we have been attracted to the window, by
the plaintive Canadian boat son^. In one instance,
it arose from a solitary voyager, floating in his light
canoe, which occasionally appeared and disappear-
ed on the sparkling river; and, in its distant course
seemed no larger than some sportive insect. In
another instance, a larger boat, with more numc-
irous, and lc>s melodious voicer^, not indeed in per-
fcc^t harmony passed nearer to the shore, and gave
additional life to the scene. A few moments after,
the moon broke out from a throne of dark clouds,
and seemed to convert the whole expanse of water
into one vast sheet of glittering silver, and, in the
very brightest spot, at the distance of more than a
mile, again appeared u solitary boat, but too dis-

! m

:bcc.

ve left be-
half after
ihe full, in
ipparently

/ery thing
windows
St. Law-
iiately be-
rcading to
nes for an
tion. Ev-
ick clouds
nd embel-
of those
indow, by
; instance,
n his light
lisappeai-
int course
iscct. In
re nu me-
ed in pcr-
and gave
ents after,
k clouds,
; of water
id, in the
>rc than a
t too dis-

TOUR BLTWEi:: HARTFORD AND QL'£n£C. 219

tant to admit of our hearing the song, with which
the boatman was probably solacing his lonely
course.

DAY SCENES ON THE ST. LAWRENCE.

The mere contemplation of a river, presenting
such a broad expanse of water, at the distance of
five hundred miles from the ocean, is interesting and
pleasing. At this season it is a tranquil scene, but
the river presents very considerable diversity. On
our right, it spreads into a broad lake, generally
smooth, but, in numbers of places, it is ruffled by
rapids, and broken by ledges of rocks ; on the left,
it runs with great rapidity, between the island of St.
Helena and the city, and presents, at all times, a
lively and magnificent water course.

Occasionally; sloops, ships and steam boats are
seen on the river, either passing rapidly down, or
struggling against the current ; but the most com-
mon craft of the river is of every size, from a small
canoe, to the largest boats that are built without
decks.

The margin of the river, adjoining the city, is, at
most places where there are no wharves, lined with
floating rafts, and separate logs, intended both for
fuel and for timber.

A scene of considerable activity is exhibited im-

,( I*

fe*'

i ,1

220 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC.

mediately before our terrace, by the carts and hor-
ses, which are driven into the river, as far as is ne-
cessary, and frequently till the horses can hardly
keep their feet ; the object is to obtain the wood,
which is thus conveniently loaded, as the body of
the cart is as low as the surface of the river ; and
single sticks, too large for the carts, are drawn out
separately by the horses. The carts are also used
for the conveyance of water casks, to supply the
city ; the horses are driven into the water, and the
casks are filled, very conveniently, without remov-
ing them from the cart.

We frequently observed, on the Sorel river, the
French women, washing at the river's edge. The
same employment is seen here before our windows.
Sometimes the clothes are placed on boards, in the
river, and pounded ; and, at other times, the women
dance on them, dashing the water about like ducks,
and seemingly as much for frolic as for work. All
these employments are attended with much vocife-
ration, and contribute to give life and interest to the
quiet scenes of a great inland water.

Some of the circumstances which I have just
mentioned, are, it is true, trivial, but still, they tend
to characterise the country and its inhabitants.

PASSAGE TO QUEBEC.

I purposely omit to make any other remarks on
Montreal, till our return from Quebec, when we ex-

"^^ ifr

UEBEC.

ts and hor-
ar as is ne-
can hardly

the wood,

he body of

river ; and

drawn out

also used
supply the
sr, and the
ut remov-

river, the
ge. The

windows,
rds, in the
he women
ike ducks,
I'ork. AH
oh vocife-
rest to the

have just
they tend
tnts.

TOUK BETWEEN HAUTPORD AND QUEBEC. 221

pect to pass several days more in this city, and the
observations of both residences may be so blended,
as, in a good degree, to avoid repetition.

We remained in Montreal three days and a half,
and went on board the steam-boat to lodge, on the
night of the fourth. We lay quietly at the wharf
till one o'clock, in the morning of the fifth ; and when
day light was fully disclosed, we had passed many
miles down the river, and were impelled rapidly
forward, by the united force of steam and current.
The weather, which, the day before, had been cold,
became delightful, with a mild soft air, and a bril-
liant sun. Nothing, for a tame scene, could be finer
than the one which surrounded us after sun rise.
The flat shores are every where studded with white-
washed cottages, appearing, (like those which we
had seen when travelling by land,) to be all warm
and comfortable ; and, at the distance of every two
or three miles, appeared a little snowy village, with
its glittering tin spire ; if it included a house, a little
superior to the cottage, that was also covered with
the same material.

:'4 <i

Ik-

TOWN OF SOREL.

marks on
m we ex-

£arly in the forenoon, we were at the town of
Sorel, at the mouth of the river of the same name.
This is the point of communication between Lake

222 TOUR Between haktford and Quebec.

'I I

Ghamplain and the St. Lawrence, and is, of course,
a station very important to the countries on these
great waters.

At this place we were detained an hour to take
in wood, which is here, as in the United States, dry
pine. The shore is so bold, that the boat lies at
the bank, and this is so high, that the wood was
thrown down upon the deck with a good deal of
violence, so as to endanger, and actually to break,
tome of the glass in the sky-lights.

We went on shore, and walked through the
principal streets of the town.

The town of Sorel, or, (as it is sonaetimes called,^
William Henry, stands ^^ on the site of a fort, built
in the year 1665, by order of Mons. de Tracy ;" it
was intended as a defence against the incursions of
the Indians, and received its name of Sorel, from a
captain of engineers, who superintended its con-
struction.

The present town was begun about the year 1 785,
by some loyalists and disbanded soldiers, and it
continues to be the residence of many old military
pensioners.

Although the plan of the town occupies about
one hundred and twenty acres, the number of hous-
es does not much exceed one hundred and fifty,
exclusive of stores, barracks, and government
buildings.

The plan is regular, and the streets intersect at
right angles, leaving a central square, of more than

[JEBEC.

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 223

of course,
s on these

•ur to take
States, dry
)oat lies at
wood was
>od deal of
Y to break,

rough the

les called,^
I fort, built
Pracy;" it
:ur8ions of
rel, from a
id its con-
year 1 785,
srs, and it
Id nnilitary

pies about

er of hous-

and fifty,

overnment

ntersect at
more than

five hundred feet on a side."*^ The town is built
principally of wood, and the aspect of many of the
buildings is more like that of an Anglo-American
town, than any thing that we have seen in Canada.
The population is about fifteen hundred. The
churches are of stone. We visited that of the Cath-
olics, which is somewhat ornamented with pictures,
but cannot be considered as particularly handsome.
We found people at their devotions, and a priest
in attendance.

Sorel was occupied by General Thomas, in May,
1776, with the greater part of the American army,
on their retreat from before Quebec. Here Gen-
eral Thomas died of the small pox.

The river Sorel is two hundred and fifty yards
broad, opposite to the town, but it presents a singu-
lar example of a river, much narrower at its em-
bouchure, than at its origin ; it is more than four
times as wide at St. John^s, as at Sorel, and contin-
ues to widen all the way up the stream, to the Lake
Champlain ; from St. John's, there is also a ship
navigation into the lake; but, from the town of So-
rel, vessels of one hundred and fifty tons ascend
only twelve or fourteen miles, f

From the town of Sorel, we proceeded among a
great many islands, and, after passing a few miles,
entered that great expanse of the river, which is
ten miles wide, and twenty miles long, and i^ called
the lake of St. Peter. It has, indeed, a very great

* Bouchette

t Bouchette.

B 1

224 TOUR BETWBEN HARTPORD ANP QUEISEC.

resemblance to a lake, being smooth, and withoui
apparent motion.

We felt, as we had done in Lake Champlain, that
this must be Long-Island Sound, and here, indeed,
the resemblance is much greater, as the water is
green, like the ocean. The water is, of course,
shallow, and some caution is necessary, to avoid
running aground. The shores are very flat and
swampy, and, in a hot climate, would probably be
sickly.

At the large town of Three Rivers, where we
arrived by three o'clock in the afternoon, and which
is half way between Montreal and Quebec, we
stopped in the stream a few minutes, to take in
passengers. There were some ships lying at this
place, but there is no harbor, other than the stream,
nor did 1 observe any accommodations for ships,
except the naked banks of the river. This town is
the third i:ti the province, but very far behind the
other two ; it contains about three hundred and
twenty houses, and two thousand, five hundred in-
habitants ; it extends about one thousand, three
hundred yards along the river, and was founded in
1618.*

Proceeding down the river, we continued to en-
joy a delightful day's sail, with a perfect Indian

summer. Mr. W and myself had a large state

room to ourselves, where we could retire in per-
fect seclusion, whenever we did not choose to be

*Bouchette.

id wilhoiu

iplain, that
re, indeed,
e water is
of course,
, to avoid
y flat and
■obably be

where we
and which
jebec, we
to take in
ing at this
he stream,
for ships,
bis town is
tehind the
idred and
ndred in-
nd, three
Dunded in

led to en-
ct Indian
arge state
'e in per-
use to be

TOUR UETWELN UAllTFOUU AND QUEBEC. 225

among the passengers, who, however, were few and
civil, and, as the boat was very large, we had none
of the inconveniences of a crowd. I occupied a
good deal of the day in writing, as the scenery had
a very great degree of sameness, and from the win-
dows I could catch a glimpse of its changes, so as to
go seasonably on deck, and pot to lose any impor-
tant object.

Towards evening, when we were just above the
Richelieu Rapids, and the surface of the river ex-
tremely smooth, the captain pointed out a large
seal, sleeping on the water, at the distance of per-
haps two or three hundred yards. He fired at it
five or six times, without effect ; we could see the
balls strike the water, very near the seal, but the
animal did not even awake, or change its position.

As the Rapids of Richelieu, where the river is
very narrow, and the current rushes tumultuously
over a rocky bottom, are esteemed dangerous for
ni^ht navigation, and as it was already evening, we
cast anchor to wait the return of day. 'I'his was
just what we could have wished, for, had we contin-
ued on our course, we must have arrived at Quebec
in the night, and thus have lost the noble scenery
of the approach to this city. We had also the addi-
tional advantage of a night of perfect quiet and se-
curity, undisturbed by the jar of the machinery, or
the trampling of the people. Indeed, had we been
in motion, we should have felt very secure at night,

for the fire and the boiler were as far from us, as

\ ^

——(.*"

— ..^-

226 TOUR BETWEEN' HARTFORD AND ftUEBEft.

■M

the whole length of a common European ship, and
no accident has ever happened in this river.

In the morning we were again under way, as soon
as we could see sufficiently to avoid the rocks,
which are so numerous here, that day light is almost
indispensable to a safe passage. It was a perfect
May morning, with the finest, softest splendor of an
Indian summer, so that we had every inducement,
and every opportunity to observe the various inter-
esting objects that occurred. By this time we had
become familiar, and acquainted with several of our
fellow-passengers, among whom, were English mil-
itary and naval men, Quebec me rchants, and a Ro-
man Catholic ecclesiastic. The latter came on
board at the Three Rivers, and appeared a mild
and amiable man. From our other companions, to
whom vve made known our country, and our views
in travelling, we received every desired informa-
tion, and the most obliging civilities. The military
gentlemen, particularly, were very courteous, and,
as they were not only acquainted with Canada, but
had seen much of other countries, and of foreign
mUitary adventures, they were very interesting^ and
instructive. One of them had witnessed in person,
some of Wellington's victories, and another, a man
of most original and attractive character, and ap-
parently o(warm piety, had been not less occupied,
in the East-Indies, in promoting schemes of benev-
olence, than in the ^>ursuit of arms. Having been
warned that Quebec would burst upon us, all of a

lip, and

, as soon

rocks,
s almost

perfect
or of an
cement,
us inter-
I we had
al of oar
lish mil-
id a Ro-
;ame on
1 a mild
nions, to
UP views
informa-

military
3US, and,
lada, but
f foreign
tin^ and
1 person,

, a man

and ap-
iccupied,

f benev-
ing been
, all of a

TOUR BETWEEN HAUTFOUD AND (QUEBEC. 227

sudden, and that we were drawing near to it, our
eyes now gazed in no other direction, and our
thoughts became entirely fixed upon that object.

\ I

I '

APPROACH TO QUEBEC.

Oct. 6. — This seat of ancient dominion — now
hoary with the lapse of more than two centuries —
formerly the seat of a French empire in the west —
lost and won by the blood of gallant armies, and of
illustrious commanders — throned on a rock, and
defended by all the proud defiance of war — who
could approach such a city without emotion ? —Who
in America has not longed to cast his eyes on the
water-girt rocks and towers of Quebec !

On approaching this city, about the middle of the
day, we enjoyed the most propitious circumstances
of light and weather.

From Cape Rouge, on our left, (seven miles
above Quebec,) there is an uninterrupted range of
high ground, rising even into hills and precipices.
Cape Rouge is so called, from its red color — the
precipitous bank being stained, probably, by oxid
of iron, so as to give it, for miles, a reddish hue.

The land grew higher and higher; we passed
the mouth of the Chaudiere river, six miles from
Quebec, on our right, where a number of ships
were waiting to take in timber, and we watched
every moment for the appearance of the great for-

' I '•'/

'"?.-*»'*—■• '-aacrv***!*; -t^ ■"■* ~ '"■ .

\ —
t

^28 TOWR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEDEr

4 !'

trcss of the north, while onn of our mihtary ac-
f|uaintances pointed out to us the various interest-
ing objects, as we came up with them in succession.
At length we descried the towers of Quebec, stand-
ing on a rock of three hundred and forty-feet in
height, measured from the river.

I have already remarked that the banks, (espe-
cially the north one,) are, for miles above the city,
very precipitous, and they grow more so the near-
er we approach. About two miles from Quebec,
we were shown Sillery river and cove, and within
one mile, or a mile and a half of the city, Wolfe's
cove, now filled with lumber and ships. This name
has been derived, from the fact, that here General
Wolfe, under cover of night, landed his army, un-
perceived by the French, and clambering up the
precipice, gained the heights of Abraham.

Three round towers of stone, mounted with can-
non and standing on these heights, in advance of
the other works of Quebec, are th3 first objects that
strike the eye ; then the high walls of stone, cover-
ed with heavy artillery, and which, as we come
nearer to the city, we perceive to extend all along,
upon the verge of the precipice, of naked rock, of
more than three hundred feet in height, which di-
vides the lower from the upper town. On our
right was the ground on the south-eastern side j"
the river, called Point Levi. This also is a preci-
pice of rock, but rather less elevated than Cape
Diamond, on which the citadel of Quebec is built.

^iisr- .

^•— »-^

>}■

' »

E« .

tary ac-

nterest-
cession.
:, stand-
s-feet in

3, (espe-
the city,
he near-
Quebec,
d within

Wolfe's
his name

General
rmy, un-
g up the

vith can-
Ivance of
ects that
, cover-
vre come
I along,
rock, of
hich di-
On our
side 3"
a preci-
ii Cape
is built.

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 229

Point Levi is now covered with brilliant white hou-
sed. In the year 1759, General Monckton, by or-
der of General Wolfe, erected his batteries there,
to bombard Quebec.

PRINT NO. 5.

This sketch, taken by Mr. W , from the

steam-boat, was commenced, about three or four
miles above the city, and when we were passing
every moment, rapidly along. It was unavoidably
subjected to the disadvantage of constant change of
position ; but, as it fortunately happened, this cir-
cumstance rather augmented the distinctness, than
altered the relative position of the principal objects.

On the right, is exhibited part of the promonto-
ry of Point Levi, with a glimpse of a few of the
houses and ships at its foot. In the remote view,
down the river, are seen some of the highlands, be-
yond the falls of Montmorenci, on the left bank of
the river, and at the distance of from ten to fifteen
miles. Immediately before the observer, is the
smooth expanse of the river, with some of the nu-
merous ships and boats that adorn its surface.

On the left, and nearest at hand, a beautiful
copse of wood, with some buildings at its (eetf just
intercepts the view of Wolfe's cove, which lies be-
tween this grove and the high bank on which stands
the nearest round tower ; only the opening of the
cove is seen. Then come the heights, on which

€

•*a:i--^

230 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC.

are the plains of Abraham, and upon them the Mar-
tello towers, two of which only are, from this posi-
tion, visible ; the view of two others is cut off by
the intervening heights. Further on, appears Cape
Diamond, composed of almost perpendicular pre-
cipices of naked rock, three hundred and forty-five
feet in the greatest height. The walls and towers
of massy stone, pierced and cut down for embra-
sures, and, crowned with the flag-staff and colors
that appear on this Cape, constitute the Citadel
OF Quebec. Immediately at the foot of this
precipice, is the commencement of the lower
town which is continued around the foot of the
rock; only a very small part of it, and no portion
of the houses of the upper town is visible from this
point of view.

-5

■i
n

■K-

Arrived in the bay of Quebec, we found it
swarming with ships, and presienting every appear-
ance of a great seat of commerce. The bay is a
beautiful piece of water, looking like a perfect lake,
with most nobly formed swelling shores. It is
bounded by the ground just mentioned — by the Isle
of Orleans, four miles down the river, and by a de-
lightful country, on the north, and north-east, inter-
sected by the Montmorenci and St. Charles' rivers,
which fall into the bay; the ground slopes with
charming declivity to the water, around which it

I' '

'-if-

"^r^rfuif.

> ■;■;

EC.

he Mar-
his posi-
it off by
irs Cape
liar pre-
brty-five
d towers
r embra-
)d colors
Citadel
of this
le lower
t of the
portion
from this

found it
J appear-

bay is a
feet lake,
IS. It is
y the Isle

by a de-
ast, inter-
L's' rivers,
•pes with

which it

i. L- :y •>

i»

■^.

•M .

('; ^ .

•

- ■♦ '

•H"

c
c

e
d
tl

.#•'

■^

(

\
'■ 1

. ;.

—

h
tl
tl
b
V

I f

r V,

i-^r-ji,-

'■if

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 231

sweeps gracefully like a bow, and presents in a long
circuit, so many snow-white cottages — handsome
country houses, and fine populous villages, that it
seems for leagues almost one continued street.
The land is finely cultivated, and even now, is cov-
ered with the deepest verdure, and sprinkled with
dandelions in full bloom. Back of this fine amphi-
theatre of rural beauty, ranges of mountains stretch
their shaggy summits, and limit the view. The
harbor is one of the grandest imaginable, and
the whole scene resembles extremely the pic-
tures of the bay of Naples, to which, it is said
by competent judges, to bear a strong resemblance.
We had scarcely time to admire this fine scene, be-
fore we were moored at the dock in the lower town,
) the midst of all the din of a crowded port. —
vrliile we were waiting for the necessary arrange-
ments to land, we had a few moments to contem-
plate the new scene before us. Contiguous, was
the lower town, skirting the upper, and embracing
the feet of its rocky precipices. It makes a circuit
of, I should imagine, almost two miles, and is crowd-
ed in the most compact manner possible, on a nar-
row strip of land, between the precipices and the
St. Lawrence. The houses are so far below the
walls of the upper town, that a stone could be drop-
ped into the chimnies of the nearest, and it would,
in most places, fall two or three hundred feet in the
air, before it reached its object.

One of the most striking objects before our eyes
was the castle of St. Louis — the residence of the

< 1

IT M

ill ife

«''

■•^

I /

I ^''

>' I .

232 TOFR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC.

governor. It is a hundred and sixty-two feet long,
forty-five broad, and three stories high. It stands
(almost impending over the lower town,) upon
the very verge of the giddy precipice of two hun-
dred feet in height, and lofty pillars are built up
from the rock below to support its gallery, which
runs the whole length of the building. It is a plain
yellow structure of stone, and now exhibits no ap-
pearance of a castle, although it was a fortress under
the French government.

From the castle, an observer may look down
perpendicularly upon the houses of the lower town,
and see all the confusion, even to the motion of a
dog; all the offensive, as well as agreeable objects
of a crowded port — the grotesque assemblage of
buildings, peculiar (as is said) to an old French town;
he may hear the rumbling of carts and drays, and
the jargon of different languages, and he will inhale
the smoke and gases from a crowd of chimnies, ris-
ing to the foot of the building on which he stands.

On the right of the castle, the massy walls appear
again, and the black artillery, pointing over the par-
apet, look like beasts of prey, crouching, and ready
to leap upon their victims.

We soon landed, under the auspices of Captain
— — -, (our newly acquired military friend,) who
politely showed us our lodgings, in St. John's street,
had our baggage conveyed to them by his own
servant, and called soon after to inquire for our
welfare.

DEC.

feet long,
It stands
n,) upon
two hun-
I built up
y, which
is a plain
its no ap-
ess under

»ok down
wer town,
)tion of a
le objects
nblage of
nch town;
rays, and
^ill inhale
nnies, ris-
ic stands,
lis appear
r the par-
and ready

f Captain
•nd,) who
n's street,
y his own
re for our

I 1

\ .'1

^ c

!i|

/ I

U'l

I l(i

k f

j^i

v »

v-'

■^m •

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND <iUEBEC, 133

PRINT NO. 6.

This view was taken from the steam-boat, while,
still other steam-boats and vessels were between
it and the wharf, and they are the nearest objects
which we observe at the bottom of the picture.* —
Then come the buildings in the most crowded and
bustling part of the lower town, which may be con-
sidered (with a considerable omissh .. of houses fur-
ther to the left,) as a continuation of the commence^
ment of the lower town, seen at the foot of Cape
Diamond, in print No. 5.

In the present print we see, immediately before
us, confused piles of houses and stores, built, in
many instances, in the old French style, v/ilh steep
high roofs, having two or more rows of dormant
windows.

On the highest point of the extreme left, is Cape
Diamond, with a part of the citadel in view, crown-
ed with a flag and telegraph. On the right of
these, are a few of the houses of the upper town,
and almost immediately before us, the elevated
castle of St. Louis, with its gallery, supported by
high pillars of stone, springing from the rocks below.

Still further on the right, we observe other hous-
es in the upper town, (only the nearest edge of
which is, however, visible,) and on the extreme
right, is a spire of one of the Catholic churches.

* The wall and arched passage, on the nearest part ofthe shore,
•re not copied, but are from fancy.

'■m

rir

1 34 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC.

ENTRANCE INTO QUEBEC.

As we passed along the streets of the lower town,
I could well have thought that we were in the Wap-
ping of London. A swarming population, among
whom sailors were conspicuous ; the cheering
heigho! of the latter, working in the ships; the va-
rious merchandize crowded into view, in front of
the shops and warehouses ; the narrow compact
streets, absolutely full of buildings ; the rattling of
innumerable carts and drays, and all the jargon of
discordant voices and languages, would scarcely
permit us to believe that we were arrived in a remote
corner of the civilized world.

We did not feel so absolutely like strangers, as
we should have done, without the countenance of
the captain. I have already mentioned, that a for-
tuitous acquaintance with this gentleman, on board
the steam-boat, and an incidental disclosure to him
of our views in visiting Canada, led to a good deal
of intimacy, and, on his part, to offers of service.

He is a captain of ; is still a young man, and

being open, frank, and friendly in his deportment,
he won our confidence, and did not withhold his
own. We learned, that he served in the peninsu-
lar war, both under Sir John Moore, and under
Wellington ; he was with the former, when he fell,
in the flight of the British army from Corunna, and
with the latter, on various distinguished occasion*;.

IBEC.

wer town,

1 the Wap-
>n, among

cheering
s ; the va-
in front of
V compact
rattling of

2 jargon of
d scarcely

in a remote

rangers, as
ntenance of
, that a for-
n, on board
sure to him
a pfood deal
, of service,
ig man, and
leportment,
withhold his
le peninsu-
and under
hen he fell,
orunnH, and
d occasions.

TdUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 236

His wife, a very fine young woman, who, with
another lady, had come to the wharf to receive
him, joined us, and, with this pleasant little party,
we entered Quebec.

The first street of the lower town, along which
we passed, came to an abrupt termination, the last
house standing at the foot of the precipice, when,
turning suddenly to the right, into a street, one of
whose sides was overhung by the frowning rock,
we soon came to a foot passage of stairs, made of
plank, very steep and high, and furnished with iron
railings; this passage terminated in Mountain street,
as it is called, from the steepness of the ascent. It
is the only passage from this side into the upper
town, and it was by no means an easy task to as-
cend it, even on a good foot pavement.

In the mean time, we admired the strength and
agility of the little Canadian horses, which, with
heavily loaded carts at their heels, perseveringly
scramble up this arduous ascent, and with still
greater care and firmness, sustain their ponderous
vehicles when descending, and prevent them from
hurrying themselves and their burdens, headlong
down the steep.

The castle of St. Louis, (literally a castle in the
air,) was now seen immediately above our heads,
on the left, at the distance of two hundred and fifty
feet. It is completely on the edge of the precipice,
which overhangs the lower town, and from its dan-
gerous pre-eminence, appears ready to p-^rticipate

i-'-''

'^■

•t

V\^

■:■ I ^

Hi-:

If I

< '

236 tUUli BKTWKEH HARTFORD AND CtUBBEC.

in the destruction which it seems threatening to all
below.

We now passed the grand Prescot Gate, under
ponderous arches of stone, of great thickness and
weight, and entered the upper town.

The impression of every thing was completely
foreign from any thing that we see in the United
States. Buildings of wood, and even of brick, are
almost entirely unknown. Stone, either rough from
the quarry, or covered with white cement, or hewn
according to the taste and condition of the proprie-
tor, is almost the only material for building ; roofs,
in many instances, and generally on the better sort
of buildings, glittering, with tin plate, with which
they are neatly covered ; and turrets and steeples,
pouring a flood of light from the same substance ;
these are among the first things that strike the eyes*
of a stranger, entering the city of Quebec.

If from the United States, he sees a new popu-
lation, and, to a great extent, a completely foreign
people, with French faces and French costume;
the French language salutes his ear, as the common
tongue of the streets and shops : in short, he per-
ceives that, even in the very capital, there is onlj
a sprinkling of English population ; it is still a
French city; and^he Cathedral, the extenr-ive col-
lege of the Jesuits, now used for barracks, and most
of the public buildings and private houses, are
French. He sees troops mingled, here and there,
with the citizens; he perceives the British uniform.

_.. -^.

CBEC.

ining to alt

late, under
ckness and

completely
the United
f brick, are
rough from

Et, or hewn
e proprie-
ing ; roofs,

better sort
nrith which
id steeples,
substance ;
ke the eyes
ec.

new popu-
tely foreign
h costume;
he common
ort, he per-
tiere is onl}
it is still a
tensive col-
[s, and most
liouses, are
J and there,
ish uniform.

TOUR EETWEBN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. f3T

and the German in the British service, which remind
him that the country has masters, different from
the mass of its population, and although the milita-
ry are, obviously, not subjects of terror to the citi-
zens, the first impression borders on melancholy,
when we see these memorials of an empire fallen,
and of an empire risen in its stead. Sixty years
have done little towards obliterating the Gallic fea-
tures of the country, and with a pleasure very rare-
ly experienced in similar cases, we involuntarily
revolve in our minds, here is a country conquered,
though not oppressed. m

Trumpets and bugles now startle us with a sud-
den burst of martial music, and we can hardly be-
lieve that we are not arrived in a fortified town of
Europe.

ft was a fine morning, (October 7th,) and, as we
were about to avail ourselves of this favorable
weather, to visit some parts of the environs of Que-
bec, I will first describe our carriage, which was

THE CANADIAN CALASH.

This is not unlike an American chaise or gig, but
is built much stouter, and with or without a top ; the
horse is much farther from the body of the carriage,
and this allows room for a driver, whose seat rests

Vf ll

l! '

)• 1

238 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND ^UEBVC.

:^'

on the front or foot board, of that part of the vehi-
cle in which we ride ; this foot board, after sloping
in the usual manner, then rises perpendicularly, to
such a height, as to sustain the seat ; high sides are
also furnished to the part where the feet rest in a
common chaise, and thus children and baggage are
secured from falling out. The calash carries two
grown persons on the seat within, besides the driver,
who is often a man ; his seat, and the board which sup-
ports it, fall, by means of hinges, when the passengers
are to get in, and the board and seat are then hook-
ed up again to their place, when the driver mounts.
In such a machine, which is the most common vehi-
cle of the country, and is sometimes, as in the pre-
sent instance, made clumsily handsome, we made
our first excursion from Quebec.

Our driver was Michael Gouvan, a very intelli-
gent and obliging young man, a French Canadian,
who spoke both English and French ; and his horse,
(an iron gray,) was one of that small, but hardy
breed, which being, in this country, left in their
natural state, are extremely stout and courageous,
and carry the heavy calash, and three men, appa-
rently with more ease, than our horses draw our
gigs, and two grown persons.

It'

EXCURSION TO BEAUPORT AND MONTMORENCI.

I have already observed that it was a very fine
morning ; the temperature was mild, and the skies

BBVC.

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEi;. 239

the vehi-
T sloping
iilarly, to
sides are
rest in a
rgage are
rries two
le driver,
hich sup-
issengers
en hook-
r mounts,
non vehi-
the pre-
we made

•y intelli-
/anadian,
bis horse,
ut hardy
: in their
irageous,
n, appa-
iraw our

)RENCI.

very fine
the skies

bright, with a balmy softness in the atmosphere, ac-
companied by a slight haziness; it is exactly like
our Indian summer, and indeed, they here call this
kind of weather by the same name ; we could not
have had a more acceptable time for our little jour-
ney of nine miles, to the falls of Montmorenci.

We passed out at the gate St. John, on the north
western side of the town ; it stands at the head of
the street of the same name, and leads to a very ex-
tensive and populous suburb, '^ituated entirely with-
out the walls. This suburb exhibits many new and
good buildings, and appears modern. We soon
reached the beautiful meadows^ north-east of Que-
bec, through which flows the river Charles On
our left, was an extensive nunnery, quite Iry itself,
in the fields j it appears to be the sarr, described bj
Charlevoix, nearly a century ago, i nder the name
of the hospital.

For four miles, we passed through some of the
most beautiful meadows which I have ever seen 5
they were neatly divided into small enclosures, by
stakes driven into the ground, and secured at top,
by a rail, fastened with withes ; the meadows were
covered with thriving cattle : they were still rich in
deep verdure, and woulrli h ve adorned the banks
of the Connecticut, or of the Thames. The road
through them, was much cut up by wheels, as this
is a great thorou^h-f ire into Quebec, and the land
is naturally moist and rich. Houses were scattered
here and Ihere, upon the meadows, and when we

^ V

240 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC*

began to ascend the rising ground, we entered the
extensive village of Beauport*

This village, consisting of sixty or seventy hou-
ses, is built principally on one street, of four or five
miles in length, and extends quite to the river
Montmorenci ; it is one of those, which I mention-
ed as making so brilliant an appearance from the
bay of Quebec. The farms and garden grounds of
this village are "all in a flourishing state, and the
orchards, and occasional clumps of trees, combine
to render it one of the picasantest roads in the en-
virons of Quebec. This village is the residence
of many families of respectability."*

The houses are generally of stone, covered with
a cement, and white washed, roof and all; this
gives lliein a very nt^at appearance, and makes
them look very brilliant, even at a considerble dis-
tance ; commonly they are of one story, sometimes
of two, and inside they appeared very comfortable.
The windows, as is generally the fact in the French
houses, are divided, up and down, in the middle,
and swing, like doors on hinges.

There is in this village, a large and showy
church, with three steeples, and on entering it, we
found solitary individuals at their private devotions,
orossing themselves with holy water, and silently
moving their lips. This church contained a num*
ber of pictures, and they vtrere ornamenting its ceil-
ing with golden roses.

* Bouohette.

ired the

nty hou-
ir or five
the river
mention-
fro m the
'ounds of
y and the
combine
n the en-
'esidencc

ired with

all; thi»

d makes
srble dis-

)metimes
ifortable.
e French
middle,

d showy
ng it, we
evotions.
i silently
d a num«
g its ceil-

TOUR BETWEEN IIAIITFORD AND QtJEBEC. 241

Our driver left his calash, went into church,
fell on his knees, and said his prayers with much
apparent seriousness.

The Montmorenci is a small, but rapid river,
rolling tumultuously, over a very rocky bottom,
and just above the falls, is considerably smaller than
the Housatonuck, at the falls of Salisbury, *in Con-
necticut.

Leaving our calash and driver on the high hill,
which forms the western bank of the river, we
crossed a bridge, and passed down the eastern side
of the Montmorenci, which is also very high ground,
and, as we approach the St. Lawrence, it rises, so
as to be even still hi<^ -ler than the opposite shore.
From this elevation, the beautiful island of Orleans,
which is twenty miles long, and five wide, was in
full view before us. It is well cultivated, contains
about four thou, and^ inhabitants, and, next to Mont-
real, is the most important island in the river. On
the side contiguous to where we were, it slopes to
the water's edge, and terminates in a handsome
beach of sand. A similar beach, corresponds to
it, on tha main; the ship channel h on the other
side of the island.

As we passed along through the fields, we found
a man and boy ploughing. The oxen were yoked,
not as with us, by the shoulders and neck, but by
the homs» A kind of yoke lay upon their necks,
and was fastened, by leather straps, to the horns;

* Bouchette.
21*

i *

;'^

i s

:<]

r.i •

■■■i.-

^*,

242 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC.

but no bow, or other contrivance, passed around the
neck; thus the oxen draw entirely by (heir horns;
and I am told that the French farmers cannot be
induced to adopt our method, although it is obvious
that the animal is thus sadly embarrassed, and can
exert very little power. 1 saw, however, one yoke
in another field, harnessed in our way.

«■ ,

GEOLOGY.

There is very little variety in the geology be-
tween Quebec and Montmorenci. After leaving
the city, the first objects that strike the eye, where
the green slopes of the hills have been excavated,
in quarrying, are numerous black rocks, very regu-
larly stratified, and looking almost like great beds
of coal. These rocks, which prevail through the
village of Beauport, are black fetid limestone, in
strata nearly horizontal, and presenting in the sec-
tion of the hills, a remarkable *" 'ularity, almost
architectural. The strata, being oivided by seams,
both horizontal and vertical, look as if they had been
laid up by the skill of a mason. The houses in
Beauport, are generally built of this stone, and the
people burn it into lime at their very doors. Its
great regularity, and the ease with which it divides,
must make it an excellent building stone ; while the
combustible substance which it contains, will also

1* *

SBEC.

round the
iir horns;
cannot be
is obvious
, and can
, one yoke

ology be-
er leaving
:ye, where
excavated,
very regu-
great beds
irough the
icstone, in
in the sec-
ty, almost
by seams,
y had been
houses in
le, and the
ioors. Its
it divides,
while the
, will also

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND (QUEBEC. 243

aid, very materially, in burning it into quick lime. —
These strata appear to be secondary limestone.

The sualp, over which the Montmorenci falls,
seem to be, (for I could not get near enough to be
quite certain,) of the same description. I am fa-
voured by Dr. John I. Bigsby, of the Medical staff
of the British army in Canada, with the following
facts, as to the '' succession of the strata a few yards
above the bridge, at the falls of Montmorenci, on
the west side of the river :"

"The lowest visible rocks, rising six or eight feet
from the bed of the river, are dough shaped mounds
of granite, vertical, with a south-we^t direction, with
many irregular quartz veins, half a foot thick. On
it, lies a perfectly horizontal sand stone, so coarse
as to resemble conglomerate, (1 suspect this sand
stone is a coarse gray wacke.) It is four feet thick,
and weathered red and white. Upon this rests light
hair brown, highly crystalline limestone, very fetid,
full of shells, vegetable filaments, massive blende,
and a mineral, like brown spar. This gradually be-
comes dull, less crystalline, and at length, at the
top of the bank, is nearly a common blue lime
(stone,) with a conchoidal frac ^r"., and still here
and there containing small crystals or carbonates.
The whole height here, is perhaps, forty feet."

As we walked along upon the eastern bank of the
Montmorenci, and approached the St. Lawrence,
we found ourselves on the verge of a precipice, of
three hundred feet in height: this terminates at the

:t<i<

1 :

■

?-Sv

:,h I

t'/li

^1 t

L-
^

*,.

944 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC.

I -I

I \

St. Lawrence, or very near it, in an almost perpen-
dicular promontory, down which, with some diffi»
culty, we wound our way to the bed of the great
river. The strata of rock here, run parallel to the
St. Lawrence, and at right angles to the Montmo-
renci ; as these strata are very soft, and easily de-
composed and disintegrated, the Montmorenci,
which rolls its rapid and turbulent waters across
them, has evidently, by long continued attrition,
worn them away, so that in the jed of this small
river, at the fails, these rocks have receded about
one sixth of a mile from the St. Lawrence.

•»'*'

THE FALLS OF MONTMORENCL

The distructive action of the river itself, upoa
the rocks which form its bed, and its banks, has
produced in the long course of time, a deep bay, or
indentation, shaped nearly like a parabola, or a
horse-shoe magnet; it recedes from two hundred
and eighty, to three hundred yards,* from the St,
Lawrence, and its almost perpendicular banks, are
in different places, from two to three hundredffeet
high ; they are composed apparently, of fetid lime
stone, very much decomposed, which, on the east-
ern side, resembles extremely a fine grained slate,
or Eind stone. The crumbled and broken parts, be-

• Boachctte.

EC.

>erpen-
ne diffi^
great
1 to the
ontmo-
sily de-
lorenci,
} across
ttrition,
s small
i about

, upon
iks, has

bay, or
I, or a
lundred

the St,
iks, are
red'feet
tid lime
le east-
d slate,
irts, be*

TftUft BETWEEN HARTFORD ANB QlTfiREC. 246

come fetid by friction or percussion. At the upper
end of this bay, the Montmorenci, after a gentle pre-
vious declivity, which greatly increases its veloci-
ty, takes its stupendous leap of two hundred and
forty feet,* into a chasm among the rocks, where it
boils and foams in a natural rocky basin, from which,
after its force is in some measure exhausted in its
•wn whirlpools and eddies, it flows away in a gen-
tle stream, towards the St. Lawrence. The fall is
nearly perpendicular, and appears not to deviate
more than three or four degrees from it. This de-
viation is caused by the ledges of rock below, and
is just sufficient to break the water completely into
foam and spray. The width of the stream, at the
moment of its fall, is apparently, fifty or sixty feet ;
it may be seventy wh©n the river is swollen by
rains, or by the melted snows.

The effect on the beholder is most delightful.
The river, at some distance, seems suspended in
the air, in a sheet of billowy foam,f and, contrast-

* It is astonishing that Chnrlevoix states the fall of Montmo-
renci as beins^ thirty feet wide, and only forty hi%h. 1 cannot but
think that there must have been a typographical error in the
omission of two hundred, before forty, especially, as Charlevoix
states the height of the Niagara falls very nearly as they are now
•stimated. It is not probable that a century has made much dif-
ference with either.

t It has been compared to a white ribbon, suspended in the air;
this comparison does Justice to the delicacy, but not to the graa<
deur of this cataract.

{ •

■\

111

> J

246 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AN£> (QUEBEC.

ed. as it is, with the black frowning abyss, into
which it falls, it is an object of the highest interest.

As we approached nearer to its foot, the impres-
sions of grandeur and sublimity were, in the most
perfect manner imaginable, blended with those of
extreme beauty.

This river is of so considerable magnitude, that,
precipitated as it is, from this amazing height, the
thundering noise, and mighty rush of waters, and
the never ceasing wind and rain, produced by the
fall, powerfully arrest the attention : the spectator
stands in profound awe, mingled with delight, espe-
cially when he contrasts the magnitude of the fall,
with that of a villa, on the edge of the dark preci-
pices of frowning rock, which forms the wester*
bSnk, snd with the casual spectators, looking down
from the same elevation. But, these impressions
are not sufficient to overpower the beauty of this
cataract. The sheet of foam, which breaks over
the ridge, is more and more divided, as it is dashed
against the successive layers of rock, which it al-
most completely veils from view ; the spray be-
comes very delicate and abundant, from top to bot-
tom, hanging over, and revolving around the tor-
rent, till it becomes lighter and more evanescent,
than the whitest fleecy clouds of summer, than the
finest attenuated web, than the lightest gossamer,
constituting the most airy and sumptuous drapery,
that can be imagined. Yet, like the drapery of
■ome of the Grecian statutes, which, while it veils,

iC.

TOVR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND Q,UBBEC. 247

S9, into
interest,
impres-
he most
those of

de, that,
ight, the
ters, and
sd by the
spectator
;ht, espc-
r the fall,
irk preci-
I western
:ing down
ipressioDS
ty of this
!aks over
is dashed
lich it al-
spray bc-
op to bot-
the tor-
^anesccnt,
than the
yossamer,
s drapery,
rapery of
e it veils,

exhibits more forcibly, the form beneath, this does
not hide, but exalts the effect produced by this no-
ble cataract.

The raiii-bow we saw in great perfection; bow
within bow, and, (what I never saw elsewhese, so
perfectly,) as I advanced into the spray, the bow
became complete, myself being a part of its circum-
ference, and its transcendent glories moving with
^very change of position. This beautiful and splen-
did sight was to be enjoyed only by advancing quite
into the shower of spray -^ as if, in the language
of ancient poetry, and fable, the genii of the place,
pleased with the beholder's near approach to the
seat of their empire, decked the devotee with thi
appropriate robes of the cataract, the vestal veil of
fleecy spray, and the heavenly splendors of the
bow.

The falls of Montmorenci have been often de-
scribed, and we had obtained tolerably definite and
correct ideas of them, but their entire impression
on us was beyond our expectations.

Those who visit this place in the winter, see one
fine feature added to the scene, although they may
lose some others. The spray freezes, and forms a
regular cone, of sometimes it is said one hundred
feet in height, and standing immediately at the hot-
tom of the cataract. It is even said, that some arc

* Which was very copious, and, (if not averted by an unbrtfl-
la,) would soon wet the obterver through hit clethei.

}

•1,

248 TOUR nETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC.

kardy enough to clamber up this icy tower. Captain

informs us that he has performed this giddy

ffeat.

PRINT, NO. 7.

,f'

In this yiew, on the right, are seen the rocky
strata, rising from the St. Lawrence, and presenting
their broken edges ; higher up, the precipice is cov-
ered with sand, gravel, and ruins of the rocks, and
with some poor verdure, and stinted shrubs. This
high bank, here terminating abruptly on the great
river, is continued around to the fall, forming the
right side of the great curve, in the centre of which,
appears the cataract. In the picture, the spray is
but partially represented, and is less copious, and
rises to a less considerable height, than in the scene
itself. Just where the river commences its leap,
some rocks are seen, breaking the current.

Immediately in front, nearest to the observer, and
just where some spectators are placed, the fall is
seen with great advantage; perhaps, it is more
beautiful there, than any where else; the views of
it are, however, very fine at every position, as we
advance towards it, (although the impending banks
of ruinous and decomposed rock, look rather alarm-
ing, as we pass along.) At the foot of the cataract,
on the right, we perceive a projection of rock, halt
veiling the bottom of the fall from view ; this rock
is constantly wet and slippery, with the spray, and

\'i

RKC.

Captain
is giddy

16 rocky
resenting
ce is cov-
ocks, and
)s. This
the great
rming the
of which,
e spray is
ions, and
the scene
s its leap,
It.

erver, and
the fall is
t is more
e views of
ion, as wc
ding banks
her alarm-
e cataract,
' rock, half
; this rock
spray, and

•ii

po*!!?i

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,1 ' ;,"-..M

..,; ■ i,i,,!,ii

:':;ii, t

I ■■

if.* I

^ 4

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•% '

#.--_

.\<:

-t

. * .

•

- •

■♦

■*

<'.-»;;f;.*^f

* * -.

#■ -

■tr'

*" j»

.,*;

^v *

■'

4t-

»^

-4,

*■- ■

■'-'-■ '

it>('4:-

Li •

iri

^•^-

*-'**>■,

f ;

-»! L

Kl^

Otii /,
•dm!.

\:-

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f;,-^. bJiU

^^nnu..

Orr .

'dm).

■rO¥R BETWEEN HARTFORD AND HUEHEC. !24W

the observer scrambles up its sides, with some difli-
culty. but, when arrived there, he is fully compen-
sated by the grandeur of the scene; if he advance
over the other declivity of the rock, the bow at-
tends his every step, and at some places, two or
three concentric bows are seen. If willing to be
thoroughly wet, and possessed of a little of the
spirit of adventure, he may, by persevering in his
advances even gain a peep behind the cataract.
On the left, is seen the other side of the bay; it is
composed of perpendicular ledges of black stratiti-
j-jYf jck; (I presume it is the same fetid limestone,
.,, h constitutes the basis of Beauport,) and on its
..•; i nit, a little removed from the edge, is a hand-
-r«., ; villa. Almost exactly on the edge, and re-
:,r,;; ^ling 3 low fcHce, is seen an aqueduct, which
diverts a part of the river, just above the fall, and
conducts it to a saw mill at the bottom of the bank.
The tranquil basin, below the fall, at low water,
presents to view, portions of the rocky strata, which
torm its bed, and it is then fordabic, and also for
some time, during the latter part of the ebb, and
the beginning of the flow of the tide.

# * *

' ' ' SAWMILLS AND LUxMBER.

Just below the falls, on the right bank of the

Montmorenci, at its confluence with the St. Law-

•'3

1\f\

»■ ',

250 TOUU BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC.

™

'* ;i

rence,

the

estabi

Patterson.

for sawing lumber. The uiils, which are probably
as extensive as any in the world, are fed by a
stream, directed (as is already mentioned in the
description of print 7,) from the Montmorenci, just
above the falls. It is conducted along, on the
high bank, in a lai^e artificial channel, of plank and
timber, till, rushing down the inclined plane, form-
ed by the great natural descent of the hill, it ac-
quires a prodigious velocity, and, falling upon the
water wheels, in the mill, at the bottom of the bank,
it imparts an impulse, sufficiently powerful, to turn
the machinery of a vast establishment, and per-
forms a very great amount of labour. Nor does it
injure the cataract, as Lieutenant Hall, in his trav-
els, supposes it would ; for, it is no more missed
from the stream of the Montmorenci, than a pebble
would be from its banks.

Contiguous to these mills, is a vast deposit of
lumber ; much of it is afloat, and is guarded from
floating quite away, by wharves and pillars, and by
very extensive artificial dams, running out a great
way into the St. Lawrence, and forming a large ba-
sin. I cannot say with confidence, how many acres
it appeared to cover ; my elevation on the contiguous
bank, was so great, that I might be much deceived ;
but it served, together with the deposits which we
had seen at the Chaudiere, at Sillery, in Wolfe's
cove, and other places, to give us a strong impres-

■ »'.;

I'J'iu'

'attersorj.
probably
fed by a
ed in the
enci, just
on the
plank and
ne, form-
ill, it ac-
upon the
the bank,
il, to turn
and per-
or does it
1 his trav-
re missed
1 a pebble

deposit of
ded from
rs, and by
ut a great
I large ba-
lany acres
ontiguous
deceived ;
irhich we
Wolfe's
; impres-

TOUR BETWEEN HAIITPORD A\i) QUEliEC. 251

sion of the magnitude of the Canadian lumber trade ;
it is, in fact; the principal business of the country ;
and the ships waiting to receive ;it, are very nume-
rous. A good deal of this lumber, as we were as-
sured, comes from Vermont, and is rafted down
Lake Champlain, and through the rivers Sorel and
8t. Lawrence.

To us, who had never seen any thing to compare
with the exhibition of lumber, on the waters around
Quebec, this sight, and the other similar ones, ap-
peared very remarkable. The number and size of
the ships, also, that are waiting to receive it, far ex-
ceeded our expectations, and evinced, that, if Great
Britain cannot supply herself with lumber, on good
terms, from any other source, this colony must, for
this reason alone, be very important to her ; and,
indeed it has obviously this great advantage, as a
source of supply, that it is in a great measure, in-
dependent of the contingency of war.

As an article of trade, however, I am aware that
lumber from its great bulk, and low value, makes a
much greater show, than a commerce in many com-
modities, which, in a much more snug way, may
employ a much greater amount of capital^ and of
profits.

The Lumber rafts on the St. Lawrence, well de-
serve to be mentioned among the curiosities of the
river. We found some of them around us in the
morning, as we were coming down to Quebec, and
were amused with the view of these anomalous

I^''

SI »

252 TO¥R BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC.

floating communities. Some of them occupied
thousands of square feet on the water, and exhibit-
ed an active, grotesque population, busy in steering
these ponderous misshapen piles, down the current
of the river; they erect huts upon them, and con-
trive to concentrate upon the rafts, the few and
coarse accommodations, which their frugal habits,
and their tardy inland voyage may demand.

We did not expect to find oppressively hot
weather in Canada, so late as the 7th of October,
but in clambering the precipices about the falls of
Montmorenci, we experienced a degree of heat,
like that in the middle of July.

V]EW OF QUEBF.C AND ITS ENVIRON3, FROM

BEAU PORT.

From the river Montmorenci, the ground gently
descends towards the St. Lawrence, and towards
Quebec, but as the distance is considerable, the ele-
vation is sufficient to afford a good view of that city.

Approaching it by water, from Montreal, we have
only a glimpse of the upper town, but from the
Beauport side, we see it perfectly. Most of the
upper town is built upon a side hill, sloping rapidly
to the north and east, and the view from Beauport,
gives the idea of a fine city of considerable magni-
tude.

The roofs and spires, covered with tin, glittered
to-day, in the bright meridian sun. The towers and

. >'.|

BEC.

TOUll BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 253

occupied
exhibit-
steering
le current
|and con-
few and
[al habits,

iv^ely liot

'October,

e falls of

of heat,

FROM

Jd gently
towards
» the ele-
that city,
we have
oin the
t of the
rapidly
Jauport,

magni-

•

littered
ers and

lurretted walls, completely encircle the upper town,
although they exclude the lower; and the suburbs,
(now become almost as extensive and handsome, as
the city itself,) are also in full view, with a considera-
ble part of the lower town, and most of the ships ia
the bay and river.

The opposite shores of the island of Orleans, and
of Point Levi, with the numerous farm houses and
villages, that are conspicuous all around, end the
luxuriant meadows, intersected by the Charles, ad-
ded to the beauty of the prospect.

Indeed, Quebec and its environs, present as mag-
nificent scenery as can well be imagined. Towers
and spires — walls and rocks — cascades and precipi-
ces — swelling hills, and luxuriant vallies, and woody
mountains — beautiful villages, and numberless sol-
itary villas, and white cottages — with grand rivers,
and crowding fleets, are all united to delight the
spectator. Such scenes would be esteemed very
fine in any country.

PRINT, NO. 8.

This print, although the scene is principally the
same, does not exhibit exactly ihe view, from Beau-

port,

which was last described. The observer is

not in Beauport, but is standing on the eastern side
of the Montmorenci, on the bank, which is exhibit-
ed on the right of print 7. Immediately before him,

'^22

4
f

( t

y fi

254 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND q,UEBEC.

is the saw mill of Mr. Patterson, with floating lum-
ber, and a ship waiting to receive it. On the right,
is the high promontory, situated on the western side
of the Montmorenci, and constituting the counter-
part to that exhibited in the last print; the ship,
and sawmill, and two adventurers, on the top of the
precipice, give some idea of its height. From the
mill, we see the aqueduct passing along the hill ;
after it begins to descend from the heights, it is cov-
ered on the top, with thick plank, strongly bound by
timber, to prevent the water from overflowing, for
the stream is so copious, as completely to fill this
hollow box, through which the water is hurried with
a frightful velocity. On the left is Point Levi, op-
posite to Quebec, and distant from the observer five
or six miles ; at the foot of this promontory, we see
a little settlement, a port in miniature, and numbers
of ships contiguous In the extreme distance, are
the hills about the mouth of the Chaudiere river,
and beyond it ; they are from twelve to fifteen, and
even tvvtntv miles distant, and are situated on the
right b.aik of the St. Lawrence.

In the middio of the view, on the right, is the
city of Quebec, exhibiting a part, both of the u^>pcr
and lower town. This view may be considered as
being, in (his respect, a continuation of thai, ex-
hibited in prints ^o. 5 and G ; and, as beginning
nearly where the latter leaves off'. We see the up-
per town, with it'3 crowded bjjow of houses and

JEC,

ng lum-

■•■

le right,

,V:

ern side

counter-

le ship,

p of the

om the

he hill;

t is cov-
)und by

'5-

ing, for

nil this

-- aS

ed with

1 ■*■ _.

:vi, op-
t^er five
we see
umbers
ce, are
! river,
?n, and
on the

is the
upper
red as
it, ex-
inning
If up-
s and-

— '^^

tV- '^^

ai ^

,"*■.

/ •

• i

»'i

• I —

-^IM

s *,

TOUR BETWEEN" HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 255

spires, and with the flag and telegraph on Cape
Diamond, surrounded by its military wall, and dis-
tant four or five miles; the wall passes along upon
the very edge of the precipice of naked black rock.
Immediately at the foot of this precipice, is a con-
tinuation of the lower town, with its quays, ships,
and ware houses, and, on its extreme right, we see
the steep ascent to the palace gate. The promon-
tory, on the right of the Montmorenci, intercepts
the view of Bcauport, and of the beautiful slope
from it to the St. Lawrence ; nor do we see the
declivity of the city of Quebec to the north and
west; from the highest parts that are in view, it de-
clines very rapidly in that direction, towards the
Charles river; and this part is extensive and popu-
lous, and includes the fine suburb of St. Johns.

In order to urderstand this print, and No. 5 and
6, it must be remembered, that (he front of the
town, towards the St. Lawrence, is circular, pre-
senting its convex side to the rivers, in the form of
(he exterior curve of an amphitheatre.

I
1 1

BATTLE OF MONTMORENCI.

The roar of the cataract — the beauty of the re-
volving spray, and the splendors o( the rainbow,
have not always been observed, in tranquility, at

♦

Jl.

i«

':25() TOUR BETWEEN HARTFOIID AND Q,UEi:EC.

Montmorenci ; for the flash, and the smoke, and
the thunder of artillery, at a former period,
overwhelmed these milder beauties, and the banks,
and the waters of these rivers have, at their conflu-
ence, been stained with blood.

On the 27th of June, 1 759, General Wolfe, ar-
riving in the St. Lawrence, with an armament equip-
ped expressly for the reduction of Quebec, estab-
lished his army upon the island of Orleans, while
Admiral Saunders, with the fleet, occupied the
channels and the bay of Quebec. On the 29th,
General Wolfe detached General Monckton, with
four battalions, to drive the French force from
Point Levi, the promontory opposite to Quebec,
and to occupy that place, a service which was suc-
cessfully executed. The French soon after, passed
over from Quebec, with one thousand six hundred
men, to attack General Monckton, but fell into
confusion — fired on one another, and retreated
back to Ihe city.* General Monckton severely
cannonaded and bombarded the city, from this
point, and although his fire was quite destructive
to the lower town, and very injurious to the build-
ings in the upper, it made no serious impression on
its defences, and left the place nearly as tenable
as ever. Indeed, it is obvious from mere inspec-
tion, that were the works of Quebec, on the side
n« xt to Toint Levi, all destroyed, still it would be

^ «lencrRl Wolfe's di«p;xtch to his government.

TOUR BETWEEN HAUTFORD AND QUEBEC. 257

of little avail, towards an escalade of the preci-
p' 'es, of naked rock, in sonne places more than
three hundred feet high, on which the walls and
towers are built. For many miles above the city,
the left bank of the river is a mere precipice, or
admits of easy and effectual defence, by a small
number of troops, judiciously stationed. The only
accessible ground, in the immediate vicinity of Que-
bec, is the graceful declivity between the river St.
Charles, which washes the north eastern part of the
city, and the Montmorenci. This is the fine natu-
ral slope, that appeared so beautiful as we entered
the bay of Quebec, and stretches four or five miles,
along the river, from Beauport to the St., Lawrence.
Near Montmorenci, this declivity becomes very
steep and of arduous ascent. This ground would,
of course, invite a landing, but the Marquis do Mont-
calm, had occupied every part of it, with an en-
trenched camp ; batteries of cannon were placed
at every accessible point, and his rear was defend-
ed by a thick forest.

Still, General Wolfe, seeing no prospect of re-
ducing Quebec, except by first defeating the army
by which it was defended, and perceiving no possi-
bility of attacking that army, except by occupying
this ground, took measures to effect that object.

On the night of July 9th, he passed his army
over the north channel, between the island of Or-
leans and the promontory represented on the right
of print 7. fie wished next to pass the Moatmo-

m \

■,.,i, , ,

1.1

^%.. a

; I

■r

258 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC.

renci above the falls, and to attack the enemy in the
rear, but, there was no ford nearer than three miles
up the river, and the opposite bank was entrench-
ed, and so steep and woody, that it could not b«
successfully attacked. ^

He had occupied with cannon, the precipice be-
low the falls, which forms the right of the curve, in
print 7; it is higher than the opposite side, to which
the left of the French camp extended, and the vig-
or of the fire from this battery, under the direction
of General Townsend, prevented the French from
erecting a corresponding battery, near the place
where the aqueduct is represented, in the left of
the picture ; this battery was therefore unopposed,
and considerably annoyed the French camp.

We saw the remains of the English battery ; they
are still distinctly visible on the heights, north-east
of the bay, below the falls ; the bank has now crum-
bled so much, that the entrenchments are close to
the edge of the precipice, and the observer, on ac-
count of the frail support below, should be on his
guard in approaching the brink.

It has been already mentioned, in the description
of print 7, that the bay below the falls is fordable,
near, and at low water. General Wolfe determined
to avail himself of this facili.y, and to attack the en-
emy in front, in their entnuichmcits; to entilade
and batter these, a great quantity of artillery was
placed upon the eminence, and was served with
much effect.

»i'

x-^

i.. \^-tS l i^^

I'.

EBEC.

emy in the

hree miles

entrench-

uld not hv

cipice be-
e curre, in
3, to which
1(1 the vig-
B direction
'ench from
the place
the left of
mopposed,
Tip.

tery; Ihej
north-east
now c rum-
re close to
srer, on ac-
, be on his

description
fordable,
ietermined
ack the on-
to entilade
tilleiy was
2rved with

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 2j9

It became necessary to pass the ford on the rock,
and then to go around the point by the saw mill,
which is exhibited on the right of print 8. The
promontory there represented, immediately above
the saw mill, cuts off, in a great measure, the view
of the ground occupied by the French camp, and
also the view of the beach where the English troops
were to form.

It was on the morning of the 31st of July, that
the grenadiers, in the boats of the squadron, sup-
ported by a part of General Monckton's corps from
Point Levi, who were also in boats, proceeded for
the shore ; they were thrown into some confusion,
and detained a good while by accidental ground-
ing, so that it was late in the afternoon, before they
effected a landing on the beach, above the saw mill.
The enemy had precipitately abandoned a redoubt,
close to the shore ; the corps of Generals Townsend
and Murray, which were to ford the Montmorenci,
and come round to the beach, to unite in the attack,
were on their way, and in good order, but the corps
of General Monckton were not yet landed.

The grenadiers, consisting of thirteen companies,
aided by two hundred royal Americans, had orders
to form in four distinct bodies, and to proceed to
the attack as soon as they could be supported by
Monckton's corps, and aided by the troops from the
ford of the Montmorenci. *

But, before Monckton's corps were landed, and
before the other troops were at hand to support

■y

I I

aUO TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD ANJ* ^UBBEC.

them, and, without waiting to form, they rushed im
petuously forward, running towards the "enemy's
entrenchments, in the utmost disorder and confu-
sion."* Their courage proved their ruin; they
were cut down in great numbers, by a very hot and
well directed fire, and, being unable to form, they
retreated behind the redoubt, which the F'rench had
abandoned, leaving their dead to be plundered, and
numbers of their wounded to be murdered and
scalped by the savages. General Wolfe now drew off
his grenadiers, to form them behind General Monck-
ton's corps, which was by this time drawn up on the
beach, in " extreme good order." But it was now
near night — a sudden thunder storm came on — the tide
began to make — and the attack was abandoned, after
the loss of between five and six hundred brave men,
of the flower of the army, and Wolfe, fearing that, if
he persisted any longer, his retreat might be cut off,
quietly retired again to his camp, across the
Montmorenci. This attack has often been censur-
ed as rash, and, after viewing the ground, I presume
most persons would pronounce hat judgment to be
correct. General Wolfe himself, says : "The ene-
my were indeed posted upon a commanding emi-
nence. The beach, upon which the troops were
drawn up, was of a deep mud, with holes, and cut
by several gullies. The hill to be ascended, very
steep, and not every where practicable. The

* Wolfe's letter to Mr. Pitt.

#..i.

TOUR BKTWEEN HARTFORD AND qUEUEC. 261

enemy numerous in their entrenchments, and their
fire hot. If the attack had succeeded, our loss must
certainly have been great, and theirs inconsidera-
ble, from the shelter which the neighboring woods
afforded them. The river St, Charles still re-
mained to be passed, before the town was invested.
All these circumstances 1 considered ; but, the de-
sire to act in conformity to the king^s intentions,
induced me to make this trial, persuaded that a
victorious army finds no difficulties."*

General Wolfe expected, (had he succeeded,) to
have penetrated the .t of the French camp, where
his artillery, from the opposite heights, had made
an impression. Without claiming to have any mili-
tary knowledge, I may, perhaps, be allowed to say,
that, after toiling up this hill, on foot, and finding
it an arduous undertaking to one entirely unmolest-
ed, it appears next to madness, to lead columns of
men up a long and steep ascent, where, especially
in a hot summer's day, they could not for many
minutes, proceed upon the run, without being put
out of breath, and- 'here the well directed fire of
deeply entrenched troops, aided by artillery, must
speedily cut down, (as it actually did,) one half of
those who made the rash attempt, while they, in
turn, could do their enemy little or no harm.

It was an affair, extremely like Bunker's Hill, in
almost all its circumstances, except that the French

J r

}

* Wolfe's letter to Mr. Pitt.
23

f%*7 <■

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33 WIST MAIN STRUT

WHSTIR.N.Y. 14SI0

(71*) •7a-4S03

262 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC.

J,/
V

T I

possessed regular entrenchmentF, abundance ot
cannon, and experienced commanders and troops,
while the Americans, at Bunker's Hill, had nothing
more than a small redoubt, and a very imperfect
breast-work, thrown up in one night, and made, to
some extent, of rail fence and haj, and were almost
without cannon, and with commanders and troops,
most of whom had never been in battle before. —
Had thej/ been situated at Bunker's Hill, as the
French were, at Montmorenci, they would, without
doubt, have finally repulsed the assailants. If Gen-
eral Wolfe had lived, and ultimately failed in the
campaign, he would probably have been censured,
with much severity, especially had he been
frustrated in the attempt to gain the plains of Abra-
ham, which he certainly would have been, had the
French commander been as much on his guard
there, as at Montmorenci.

In the recital of the horrors of war, we view them
with wonderful apathy, for the very reason, that
ought to excite the deepest interest, because the
results are given by hundreds and by thousands. In
this vast aggregate of human woe, we forget the
particular sufferings, and arc much less affected, (as
has often been remarked by moral writers,) by the
accounts of the slaughter of armies, than wc should
be by the detailed exhibition, of the sufferings of a
single soldier. But wc ought to remember that
every wounded and dying man has his oion individ-
ual agony ; and that it is not greater for a Wolfe.
than for every private soldier.

EBEC;.

ndance oi
nd troops,
ad nothing

imperfect
id made, to
rere almost
ind troops,
J before—
lill, as the
Id, without
its. IfGen-
liled in the
n censured,

he been
nsof Abra-
en, had the
i his guard

3 view them
reason, that
because the
utsands. In
5 forget the
iffected, (as
crs,) by the
n wc should
(ferings of a
ember that
)wn individ-
ir a Wolfe.

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AlfD QUEBFX. 2G3

The following anecdote* contains an account of
the dangers and sufferings of two individuals, in
this very battle, and the event happened on the
very ground which we walked over in this day's
excursion. I presume that, notwithstanding its
length, I shall be excused for its introduction : —

" Captain Ochterlony, and Ensign Peyton, be-
longed tothe regimentof Brigadier-General Monck-
ton. They were nearly of an age, which did not
exceed thirty ; the first was a North-Briton, the
other a native of Ireland. Both were agreeable in
person, and unblemished in character, and connect-
ed together by the ties of mutual friendship and
esteem. On the day that preceded the battle,
Captain Ochterlony had been obliged in fight a
duel with a German officer, in which, though he
wounded and disarmed his antagonist, yet he him-
self received a dangerous hurt under the right arm,
in consequence of which, his friends insisted on his
remaining in camp during the action of next day;
but his spirit was too great to comply with this re-
monstrance. He declared it should never be said
that a scratch, received in a private rencounter,
had prevented him from doing his duty, when his
country required his service ; and he took the fi«ld
with a fusil in his hand, though he was hardly able
to carry his arms. In leading up his men to the
enemy's entrenchment, he was shot through the
lungs with a musket ball, an accident which obliged

* ^mollott'i Hiitory of England, Vol. V. p. 49.

.^* i"^

■1

^64 TOUR BETWEBN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC.

him to part with his fusil; but he still continued
advancing, until, by loss of blood, he became too
weak to proceed further. About the same time,
Mr. Peyton was lamed by a shct, which shattered
the small bone of his left leg. The soldiers, in
their retreat, earnestly begged, with tears in their
eyes, that Captain Ochterlony would allow them
to carry him and the ensign off the field. But he
was so bigotted to a severe point of honor, that he
would not quit the ground, though he desired they
would take care of his ensign. Mr. Peyton, with
a generous disdain, rejected their good offices, de-
claring that he would not leave his captain in such
a situation; and, in a little time, they remained
sole survivors on that part of the field.

"Captain Ochterlony sat down by his friend,
and, as they expected nothing but immediate death,
they took leave of each other ; yet they were not
altogether abandoned by the hope of being protect-
ed as prisoners; for the captain, seeing a French
soldier, with two Indians, approach, started up, and
accosting them in the French language, which he
spoke perfectly well, expressed his expectation
that they would treat him and his companion as
officers, prisoners, and gentlemen. The two Indians
seemed to be entirely under the conduct of the
Frenchman, who, coming up to Mr. Peyton, as he
sat on the ground, snatched his laced hat from his
head, and robbed the captain of his watch and
monevt This outrage was a signal to the Indians

!■

EHEC.

continued
recame too
same time,
1 shattered
oldiers, in
IPS in their
illow them
But he
or, that he
esired thej
jyton, with
offices, de-
aiin in such
' remained

lis friend,
iate death,
y were not
ig protect-
j a French
ed up, and
which he
xpectation
ipanion as
wo Indians
net of the
ton, as he
t from his
vatch and
le Indians

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 265

for murder and pillage. One of them, clubbing
his firelock, struck at him behind, with a view to
knock him down ; but the blow, missing his head,
took place upon his shoulder. At the same instant,
the other Indian poured his shot into the breast of
this unfortunate young gentleman, who cried out,
* O Peyton ! the villain has shot me*' Not yet satia-
ted with cruelty, the barbarian sprung upon him,
and stabbed him in the belly with his scalping
knife. The captain having parted with his fusil,
had no weapon for his defence, as none of the offi-
cers wore swords in the action. The three ruffians
finding him still alive, endeavored to strangle him
with his own sash; and he was now upon his knees,
struggling against them with surprising exertion. —
Mr. Peyton, at this juncture, having a double bar-
relled musket in his hand, and seeing the distress of
his friend, fired atone of the Indians, who dropped
dead on the spot. The other, thinking the ensign
would now be an easy prey, advanced towards him,
and Mr. Peyton, having taken good aim, at the dis-
tance of four yards, discharged his piece the second
time, but it seemed to take no effect. The savage
fired in his turn, and wounded the ensign in the
shoulder ; then, rushing upon him, thrust his bayo-
net through his body ; he repeated the blow, which
Mr. Peyton attempting to parry, received another
wound in his left hand ; nevertheless, he seized the
Indian's musket with the same hand, pulled him
forwards, and, with his right, drawing a dagger

23*

''2QQ TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC.

which hung by his side, plunged it into the barba-
rian's side. A violent struggle ensued ; but at length,
Mr. Peyton was uppermost, and with repeated
strokes of his dagger, killed his antagonist outright.
Here he was seized with an unaccountable emotion
of curiosity, to know whether or not his shot had
taken place on the body of the Indian; he accor-
dingly turned him up, and stripping off his blanket,
perceived that the ball had penetrated quite through
the cavity of the breast. Having thus obtained a
dear bought victory, he started up on one leg, and
saw Captain Ochterlony standing at the distance of
sixty yards, close by the enemy's breast-work, with
the French soldier attending him. Mr. Peyton then
called aloud, * Captain Ocaterlony, I am glad to
see you have at last got under protection. Beware
of that villain, who is more barbarous than the sav-
ages. God bless you, my dear captain. I see a
party of Indians coming this way, and expect to be
murdered immediately.' A nunrber of those barba-
rians ha'9 for some time been employed on the left,
in scalping and pillaging the dying and the dead,
that were left upon the (ield of battle ; and above
thirty of them were in full march to destroy Mr. Pey-
ton. This gentleman knew he had no mercy to ex-
pect; for, should his life be spared for the present,
they would have afterwards insisted upon sacrificing
him to the manes of their brethrerf whom he had
slaiu ; and in (hat case, he would have been put to
death by the most excrutiating tortures. Full of this

rEBEC.

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD i\KD QUEBEC. 267

the barba-
it at length,
1 repeated
ist outright.
)le emotion
lis shot had
; heaccor-
lis blanket,
lite through
obtained a
>ne leg, and
distance of
■work, with
Peyton then
am glad to
I. Beware
lan the sav-
n. I see a
expect to be
hose barba-
on the left,
1 the dead,
and above
oy Mr. Pey-
nercy to ex-
the present.
[1 sacrificing
lom he had
been put to
Full of this

idea, he snatched up his musket, and, notwithstand-
ing his broken leg, ran above forty yards without halt-
ing; and feeling himself now totally disabled, and
incapable of proceeding one step further, he loaded
his piece, and presented it to the two foremost In-
dians, who stood aloof, waiting to be joined by their
fellows : while the French, from their breast-works,
kept up a continual fire of cannon and small arms
upon this poor, solitary, maimed gentleman. In this
uncomfortable situation he stood, when he discerned
at a distance, a Highland officer, with a party of his
men, skirting the plain towards the field of battle.
He forthwith waved his hand in signal of distress,
and being perceived by the officer, he detached
three of his men to his assistance. These brave
fellows hastened to him through the midst of a ter-
rible fire, and one of them bore him off on his
shoulders. The Highland officer was Captain Mac-
donald, of Colonel Frazer's battalion ; who, under-
standing that a young gentleman, his kinsman, had
dropped on the field of battle, had put himself at the
head of this party, with which he penetrated to the
middle of the field, drove a considerable number of
the French and Indians before him, and finding his
relation still unscalped, carried him off in triumph.
Poor Captain Ochterlony was conveyed to Quebec,
where, in a few days, he died of his wounds. After
the reduction of that place, the French surgeons
who attended him, declared that, in all probability,
he would have recovered of the two shots he had

)»'

^•*. fv

'nM~-i i K a - a i^M i

•If

^\u

368 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND ^VEBEC.

received in his breast, had he not been mortally
wounded in the belly, by the Indian^s scalping
knife. *

'^As this very remarkable scene was acted in
sight of both armies, General Townshend, in the
sequel, expostulated with the French officers upon
the inhumanity of keeping up such a severe fire
against two wounded gentlemen, who were disa-
bled, and destitute of all hope of escaping. They
answered, that the fire was not made by the regu-
lars, but by the Canadians and savages, whom it
was not in the power of discipline to restrain."

1 '

' I

EXCURSION TO THE FALLS OF CHAUDIERE.

Oct, 8. — With our faithful Gouvan, and our com-
fortable calash, we crossed the St. Lawrence about
the middle of the day. We had come down to the
wharf much earlier, and waited two hours for the
boat, which was detained on the other side, at the
command of a party of the officers of justice, who
had gone over to whip a culprit; at length, a great
company of them returned in the boat, with their
badges, and bringing with them the miserable man.
As usual elsewhere, in such cases, it excited and
gratified the mob, but the disgraced and chastised
offender, wore an aspect very different from the
consequential air of the constables, or from the grin-
ning insolence of the populace.

■m

- --*•",; ■* S"

7EBEC.

en mortally
n's scalping

^as acted in
lend, in the
>fficers upon
I severe fire
> were disa-
)ing. They
by the regu-
es, whom it
estrain."

kUDlERE.

ind our com*
rrence about
down to the
iours for the
side, at the
justice, who
ngth, a great
t, with their
lerable man.
excited and
nd chastised
nt from the
om the grin-

TOUm BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 266

•

Arrived on the opposite shore, we soon ascended
the steep heights of Point Levi— saw where Gene-
ral Monckton erected his batteries, to bombard the
city, previous to the unsuccessful battle at Moatmo-
renci — and enjoyed a brilliant and new view of Que-
bec, and of its environs — the fortifications and pre-
cipices appearing particularly grand from this eleva-
tion.

DESCRIPTION or THE VIGNETTE. — (See title pOgt.)
VIEW OF QUEBEC FROM POINT LEVI.

No position, in which we were placed, afforded
us so impressive a view of the rook of Quebec, and
particularly of its castellated appearance, as this from
the summit of Point Levi. After the prints that
have been already described, this will be readily
intelligible. The distance is about one mile. On the
extreme left, is a glimpse of the heights and plains
of Abraham — on the extreme right, the hills about
Beauport and Montmorenci. Immediatt^ly before
us, is the rock of Quebec; and the exi-^rd of the
part that is seen, is about one mile : nearly the
whole of it is, literally, a naked rocky preci-
pice, almost black, and composed of enormous
strata of slate and limestone, very rude, both on
account of their natural contortions, and the effects
of blasting, and of other forms of violence upon
them. On the summit of the rock, on the left where

\i W

■

I. i

■* '^^, t

l! >li

k/ \\

270 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC*

it is three hundred and forty-five feet high, is the
citadel, standing on Cape Diamond ; some way to
the right of this, where the rock declines considera-
bly in height, appears the castle of St. Louis, (more
distinctly exhibited in print 6.) Still further to the
right, and scarcely distinguishable among the build-
ings, is the Prescot gate, at the top of Mountain
street, which comes obliquely up from the lower
town, and affords the only communication on this
side of the rock. Beyond the gate, on the left, is
seen the English Episcopal Cathedral, and, to the
right, the Roman Catholic Cathedral, the parliament
house, the seminary, &c. and, in froBt of these last,
is the wall of the city, with embrasures and cannon,
forming the grand battery, which occupies a lower
level, or natural platform of the rock, here about
two hundred and thirty feet high.

At the foot of the rock, is the lower town, and, if
we add to it that part exhibited from Montmorenci,
(print 8,) we have then very nearly the whole of
the lower town ; it may be added, that print 8, and
this vignette, in connexion, exhibit nearly the whole
of the rock of Quebec. Nearly on the extreme left
of the rock, at the foot of Cape Diamond, in the
lower town, is the place where General Montgome-
ry was slain, on the mornings of December .31, 1775,
and} on the right, at the foot of the rock, or grand
battery, is the street wher« General Arnold's party
were defeated and captured, ou the same occasion.

UEhECt

high, is the
ome way to
s considera-
jouis, (more
irther to the
ig the build-
er Mountain
n the lower
eition on this
n the left, is
and, to the
e parliament
of these last,
and cannon,
ipies a lower
, here about

lown, and, if

[ontmorenci,

he whole of

print 8, and

ly the whole

extreme left

nond, in the

Montgome-

er 3 1, 1775,

ck, or grand

mold's party

ne occasion.

TOUR BETWk-iiN HARTFORD AND QUEREC. 271

This vignette is the only print in this volume, that
is not original. It is common at Quebec, on bank

bills, and, Mr. W , finding it so very exact a

representation of the fine scene, which we contem-
plated from Point Levi, adopted, and copied it, with
some slight variations. The engraver has given it
still greater precision, by reference to the view of
Quebec, on Colonel Bouchette's topographical map
of Lower Canada.

The villages through which we passed, were not
so well built as Beauport ; a larger proportion of the
houses were constructed of logs, and the people ap-
peared not in so good circumstances ; but still they
were comfortable.

The road to Montmorenci was rough ; that over
which we were now passing was smooth, and, com-
pared with any other roads that we had seen in Can-
ada, it was very fine. We passed through a large
settlement, sustained principally by the great lumber
establishment of Mr. Caldwell, and soon arrived at
the mouth of the Chaudiere river, over which we
were ferried.

During our whole ride from Point Levi, we had
been gratified by a succession of fine views ; the
river — the opposite shores, precipitous in almost
every direction — the heights of Abraham — Cape
Diamond, and the upper and lower town — the

« •■11

f .

«'

273 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC.

slopes of Beauport, and the heights of Montmorenci
— the Isle of Orleans, and the bosom of the river —
some of these features were constantly, either in
prospect, or in retrospect ; and we saw many scenes
which would have been well worthy of the pencil.
Among these, one was selected, of which the an-
nexed print is a representation.

PRINT NO. 9.

This scene, which we thought not to be ex-
ceeded in beauty by any that we saw in Canada,
was sketched from the left bank of the Chaudiere
river, at its mouth. Our road from Point Levi, con-
ducted us to the foot of the precipice of rock, which
is seen on the opposite side of the Chaudiere ; and,
while a larger boat was getting ready to convey over
carriages and horses, Mr. W. had the good fortune
to cross first, in a small boat, and occupied the few
moments, before the rest of us arrived, in securing
the outlines of this grand and beautiful prospect.

It was seen by the mildest, softest light, of an
Indian summer afternoon— not more than two hours
before sun-setting ; and there was a mellowness in
the tints, especially of the remoter objects, which,
notwithstanding the grandeur of some of the fea-
tures of the landscape, excited still stronger percep-
tions of beauty. These impressions were heighten-
ed by contrast, with the deep black gulf, immediate-
ly below the observer, and a little to the right. —

tUEBKC.

Vlontmorenci
if the river—
lly, either in
many scenes
>f the pencil,
vhich the an-

ot to be ex-

vf in Canada,

ie Chaudiere

int Levi, con-

f rock, which

udiere ; and,

> convey over

good fortune

ipied the few

1, in securing

prospect.

t light, of an

lan two hours

lellowness in

jects, which,

J of the fea-

nger percep-

ere heighten-

', immediate-

the right. —

•l.ai»

««:■*-•■-

■ i' •■ .

h-i

! /,

\ '^^^%

■V'\'^

■*''♦

<--

«i

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND flUKBEC. 273

This is the mouth of a very considerable river, the
Chaudiere, which here, coming from the south-
cast, pours 'ts black waters into the deep green St.
Lawrence, and is so imprisoned between very ab-
rupt, precipitous shores, principally of rock,^ but
overhung in part by forest, that, from the high bank
where the view was taken, only a part of the river
is seen. Some idea of the height of these banks
will be gained, by comparison with the ships, which
here lie securely anchored in the mouth of the
Chaudiere ; they are European ships, in quest of
lumber, and appeared to be generally of between
two and three hundred tons burden.

On the right, at the distance of six or seven
miles, we see Point Levi ; in the middle of the ex-
treme distance, are the hills about Montmorcnci,
distant about twelve miles ; on the smooth expanse
of the river between, numberless ships are seen to
repose, surrounded and tinged, by the peculiarly
attempered light, of what I presume /?am/er5 would
call a perfect Claude J.<orrain sky. On the left, is
Quebec, with its citadel, built on Cape Diamond,
and nearer, a glimpse of a part of the plains of
Abraham, with some of the Martello towers. The
distance is about six miles, and tlie bearing nearly
north-east by north ; the distance by the road is
nine miles.

W'f

* I'he rock on the opposite shore, is extremely well characteri-
zed gray uiackCf (the gr«y wacke of Werner.)

2.>

'•^r

274 TOUR BETWEEN HAUTFORD AND <4UeBEC.

lit' ' '

After crossing the Chaudiere, our road became
more rough, and was evidently much less frequent-
ed. In mounting the bank from the Chaudiere, it
was so steep, that it was with difficulty the horse
dragged up the empty calash.

Somewhat less than two miles from the falls, we
turned into the fields, and, at a farm-house, obtain-
ed a French Canadian to act as our guide through
scenes, which, we were assured, would, to stran-
gers, soon become quite a labyrinth. It was not
long before we were obliged to leave our calash,
and proceed on foot, when, crossing a small river,
we entered a forest, where an obscure cart path,
soon dwindled into a foot path, which we pursued
over a rugged and unpleasant variety of surface.

The afternoon was very hoi, and we were much
fatigued, but our journey was rendered less irksome

by the society of Mr. H d, an interesting young

Hibernian, who had accompanied us from Quebec.

Owing to our detention at the ferry, it was nearly
sunset when we arrived at the falls, and we were
too much hurried to enjoy the Chaudiere quite at
our leisure, as we yesterday did the Montmo-
renci.

The Chaudiere is a river of considerable magni-
tude, but, owing to its numerous rapids, fills, and
various obstructions, it is scarcely navigable, even

••

tl.i>

<, *■

<4U£BEC.

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND q,UEBEC. 27o

^iv

' road became
less frequent-
Chaudiere, it

ilty the horse

fi the falls, we
louse, obtain-

uide through
uld, to stra li-
lt was not
e our calash,

a small river,
ire cart path,
h we pursued

of surface,
ire were much
d less irksome
resting young
from Quebec,
it was nearly
and we were
here quite at
he Montmo-

irable magni-
iHs, falls, and
vigabic, even

for canoes. It rises from the Lake Mogantic, near
the American territory : its general width is from
four hundred to six hundred yards, and its course
is more than one hundred milos long, 'i'he banks
arc, in general, high, rocky, and steep, " the bed
rugged, and much contracted by rocks, jutting from
the sides, that occasion violent rapids."*

Among the falls in this river, those which we
had come to visit are the most considerable.

Salient points of rock narrow the river so much,
that its breadth does not exceed four hundred feet,
and the descent is estimated at one hundred and
thirty.^ Enormous masses of rock lie on the shore,
contiguous to the falls, and, by similar masses, the
cataract is divided into three parts, which reunite,
I before they plunge into the abyss at the bottom.

Ledges of clay slate, alternating with gray wacke
slate, and red slate, here form the natural dam, over
which the water is precipitated. I saw no granite,
as Lieutenant Hall mentions in his travels ; and, as
the region is a t''ansition one, I doubt whether he
has not fallen into a mistake on this point.

We emerged from the deep gloom of the forest,
exactly at the place where the cataract becomes
visible, although the sound produced by it, (at a
distance scarcely audible,) had been for some time
rapidly increasing on the car.

This cataract is grand, and wild, and turbulent,
roaring, and dashing, and foaming over its irregular

* Bouohcltp.

^w fV /

276 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC.

'■! ■ {

bariier — current encountering current, and all
plunging into a restless whirlpool, boiling with in-
cessant agitation ; thence, undoubtedly, its French
name of the Pot, or boiling Cauldron.

Colonel Bouchette has given the following accu-
rate sketch of these falls :— '* The continual action
of the water, has worn the rock into deep excava-
tions, that give a globularfigure to the revolving bod-
ies of white foam, as they descend, and greatly in-
crease the beautiful effect of the fall ; the spray
thrown up, being quickly spread by the wind, pro-
duces, in the sun-shine, a most splendid variety of
prismatic colors. The dark hued foliage of the
woods, that on each side press close upon the mar-
gin of the river, forms a striking contrast with the
snow-like effulgence of the falling torrent ; the hur-
ried motion of the flood, agitated among the rocks
and hollows, as it forces its way towards the St
Lawrence, and the incessant sound, occasioned bj
the cataract itself, form a combination that strikes
forcibly upon the senses, and amply gratifies the
curiosity of the admiring spectator."

The falls of the Chaudiere are, by many, con-
sidered as superior to those of the Montmorenci ;
but, although vastly grander on account of their
width, and the great quantity of water, they did not
strike us, ns having such peculiar benuties, and as
differing so much from common cataracts ; that of
Montmorenci is probably without a parallel in
North-America.

> N

> QUEBEC.

rent, and all
oiling with in-
lly, its French
I.

bllowing accu-
>ntinual action
> deep excava-
revolvingbod-
ind greatly in-
fall ; the spray
the wind, pro-
did variety of
foliage of the
upon the mar-
ntrast with the
rent ; the hur-
nong the rocks
awards the St
occasioned by
Dn that strikes
y gratifies the

t)y many, con-
Montmorcnci ;
count of their
r, they did not
enutieSf and as
Eiracts ; that of
a parallel in

TOVR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 277

The Chaudiere is interesting, from its connexion
with a projected road^ to the United States. The
Canadian settlements on the river du Loup, are
seventy miles from the nearest American settle-
ments on the Kennebec, and only twenty from the
American line. A mountainous ridge intervenes —
it is quite wild, but is intersected by numerous
rivers and streams, and would, without doubt, afford
practicable passes for roads. A mutual good un-
derstanding between the contiguous countries, would
soon effect the object ; indeed, Massachusetts, be-
fore the late war, appointed commissioners for the
purpose of making a road to the height of land :
7'his will probably be effected at a future, and not
very distant period, and will bring Quebec within
a distance of no more than two hundred miles by
land, from Hallowel, on the Kennebec ; and thence
to the ocean, the communication is uninterrupted.
By this road, it will be only three hundred and
seventy miles to Boston. From Quebec, there is
already an excellent road for fifty miles up the
Chaudiere, and n tolerable one to the settlements
on the river du Loup.*

♦ It was by this route, that Geiwral Arnold's party, in 1775,
penetrated tu Quebec.

i Bouchettc.

24*

/^X

->-/l

^j^^m. t«7 f

278 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC^*

It was eight o'clock, and quite dark, before, on
our return, we reached the ferry, at Point Levi ;
the steam-boat had stopped for the night, and no
persuasions or temptations of ours could induce the
boatmen to put out again. Fortunately for us, a
party arrived soon after, who appeared to be persons
of injfluence, belonging to Quebec, and they indu-
ced the boatmen to go ; we fell into the train, and
thus they did us good, probably without intend-
ing it.

Our late arrival gave us the pleasure of enjoying
a night view of Quebec, from a position where,
otherwise, we should not have seen it. The few
lights that were visible, in the upper town, served
merely to mark its outline. The lower town look-
ed like the illuminated foot of a gloomy mountain.
It was so dark, when we landed, that the dirt of
the lower town could not be seen, and we wound
our way up through the steep and intricate passages,
rendered faintly visible by a few lamps, which shed
just light enough to exhibit the antique fashion of
the houses, and to render us sensible of the gloom
©fits narrow crowded streets. Mr. W— rode,
but I walked with Mr. H d, and just as we pass-
ed through the perfectly dark arch of the Pres-
cot gate, and issuing into the city, a flash, like light-
ning, illuminated the upper town, and was instant-
ly followed by the thunder of the evening gun. It
seeded but little help from imagination to make us
believe that we were entering a fortress of the dark

._,^^_

■ *♦<• * '—-

aVEBEC«

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND <IUEBEC. 279

k, before, on
Point Levi ;
light, and no
lid induce the
tely for us, a
to be persons
tid they indu-
:he train, and
thout intend-

re of enjoying

isition where,

it. The (ew

town, served

rer town look-

my mountain.

lat the dirt of

d we wound

cate passages,

fs, which shed

ue fashion of

of the gloom

W rode,

ist as we pass-
of the Pres-
ish, like light-
i was instant-
;ning gun. It
Oil to make us
iss of the dark

ages, and the grand flourish of martial music, which
immediately burst upon our ears, with the full swell
and deep intonation of bugles, clarionets, and trum-
pets, and other wind instruments, was well adapted
to increase the illusion. The imperfect light
served to magnify the size of the place d'armes,
or military parade, in which we were arrived, and
we hastened to the opposite side of it, contiguous
to the barracks, (formerly the College of the Jesu-
its.) Here we found the band, consisting of about
twenty Germans, who continued to play for some
time, and seemed as much gratified with their own
music, as if it had possessed, for them, the charm
©f novelty.

PLAINS OF ABRAHAM.

I have several times had occasion to mention that
the weather has been very fine, since we have been
in Canada. It has been particularly so, since our
arrival at Quebec, and the thermometer has been
at summer heat, or even above, so that our excur-
sions up and down the streets of this mountainous
city, and over its environs, has been sometimes
very fatiguing.

On one of the fine mornings, we drove out
through the magnificent gate of St. Louis, to the
celebrated plains of Abraham, for no one would
leave Quebec, without visiting the ground on which
was fought the battle, that decided the fate of Can-

V-.

-^r^*'

t I

580 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC.

ada, and ultimately terminated the empire of the
French in North-America.

There are probably few scenes of warfare, which
are more intelligible than those in this vicinity. It
is rery obvious, (after becoming acquainted with
the peculiarities of the place,) that any army that is
to act against Quebec, must encounter very uncom-
mon difficulties. We have already had occasion
to advert to some of them, while speaking of the
scenes that occurred at Montmorenci.

The unsuccessful termination of that affair, evin-
ced, that nothing was to be hoped from any addi-
tional efforts in that quarter. The season was al-
ready far advanced — the expected co-operation
from General Amherst, by the way of Lake Cham-
plain, and from General Johnson, through lake On-
tario, had not been realized, and it became abso-
lutely neccssar)' to attempt something decisive, as
the season would eoon compel the English to aban-
don the campaign. The camp at Montmorenci was
therefore broken up, and on the sixth of Septem-
ber, the troops were embarked, and transported up
the river; they were landed for a season, at Point
Levi, and refreshed on the soiUhern shore, but after
some days, again went on board, and were convey-
ed three leagues above the city. General Mont-
calm dispatched a corps of observation after them,
consisting of one thousand five hundred men, under
General Bougainville, but still maintained his sta-
tion with the main army, at Beauport.

QUEBEC.

smpire of the

irarfare, which
s vicinity. It
qiiainted with
y army that is
r very uncom-
had occasion
eaking of the

•

it affair, evin-
rom any addi-
leason was al-
co-operation
r Lake Cham-
ongh lake On-
became abso-
ig decisive, as
igiish to aban-
itmorenci was
h of Septem-
ransported up
ison, at Point
lore, but after
were convey-
eneral Mont-
on after them,
d men, under
ained his sta<

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 28t

On the twelfth of September, one hour after
midnight, General Wolfe, with his army, leaving
the ships, embarked in boats, and silently dropped
down with the current, intending to land a league
above Cape Diamond, and thus to gain the heights
of Abraham. But, owing to the rapidity of the
current, they fell below their intended place, and
disembarked at what is now called Wolfe's cove,
a mile, or a mile and a half, above the city. The
operation was a most critical one— they had to
navigate in silence, down a rapid stream — to hit
upon the right place for a landing, which in the
dark, might be easily mistaken — the shore was
shelving, and the bank to be ascended was steep
and lofty, and scarcely practicable, even without
opposition. Doubtless, it was this combination of
circumstances, which lulled the vigilance of the
wary and discerning Montcalm : he thought such
an enterprise absolutely impracticable, and there-
fore had stationed only sentinels and picket guards
along this precipitous shore.

Indeed, the attempt was, in the greatest danger
of being defeated by an occurrence, which is very
interesting, as marking much more emphatically,
than dry official accounts can do, the very great
delicacy of the transaction.

One of the French sentinels, posted along the
shore, challenged the English boats in the customa-
ry military language of the French, "Qui vii !" wh»
goes there ! to which a Captain of Frazer's regiment.

ft )

if. I

' ««

1 1 -,«

282 TOUB BETWEEN HARTFORD AN» QUEBEC.

who had served in Holland, and was famihar with
the French language and customs, promptly replied,
"/a France,''^ The next question was much more
embarrassing, for the sentinel demanded " a quel
regiment ?" " to what regiment." The Captain who
happened to know the name of one of the regiments
which was up the river, with Bougainville, promptly
rejoined, '* de la Reine,^^—"' the Queen's." The sol-
dier immediately replied, ''passe,^^ for he concluded
at once, that this was a French convoy of provisions,
which, as the English had learned, from ^ome de-
serters, was expected to pass down the river to
Quebec. The other sentinels were deceived in a
similar manner; but one, h'ss credulous than the
rest, running down to the water's edge, called out,
*'Pourquoi est ce que vous ne parlez plus haut?"
" Why dont you speak louder?" The same cap-
tain, with perfect self-command, replied, ^^ Tai toi,
nous, serons, entendues !" ^' Hush, we shall be over-
heard and discovered."^ The sentry satisfied with
this caution retired. The British boats were on
the point of being fired into, by the captain of one
of their own transport ships, who, ignorant of what
was going on, took them for French ; but General
Wolfe perceiving a commotion on board, rowed
along side in person, and prevented the firing which
would have alarmed the town, and frustrated the
enterprize. General Wolfe, although greatly re-
duced by a fever, to which a dysentery was super-

' /

* Snaollet, Vel. v. p. 56.

I'l

;^-»-

Q,UEBEC.

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND <%UBBF.C. 283

familiar with

nptly replied,
IS much more

nded " a quel
B Captain who
the regiments
ille, promptly
I's." Thesol-
rhe concluded
fT of provisions,
"rom ^ome de-
1 the river to
deceived in a
ilous than the
ge, called out,
z plus haul?"
'he same cap-
lied, " Tai toi,
5 shall be over-
y satisfied with
boats were on
captain of one
norant of what
; but General
board, rowed
he firing which
frustrated the
gh greatly re-
ery was super-

added, was nevertheless the first man to leap
ashore. The rugged precipices, full of projections
of rocks and of trees, and shrubs growing every
where among the cliffs, into which the bank was
broken, presented a most forbidding appearance,
and General Wolfe familiarly speaking to an officer
who stood by, said, " I don't believe there is any
possibility of getting up, but you must do your en-
deavour." There was only a narrow path, leading
obliquely up the hill; this had been rendered by
the enemy impassable, in consequence of being
broken up by cross ditches, and there was besides
an entrenchment at the top, defended by a captain's
guard.* This guard was easily dispersed, and the
troops then pulled themselves up by taking hold of
the boughs and stumps of the trees and of the pro-
jections of the rocks.

This precipice, (which may be in different places,
from one hundred fifty to two hundred feet hi^h,)
is still very rude and rugged, but probably much
less so than in 1759; it can now be surmounted,
without very great difliculty, by men who are un-
molested.

Wolfe staked all, upon a very hazardous adven-
ture; had he been discovered prematurely, through
a spy, a deserter, or an alarmed sentry, his army

* A private soKlier belonging to this e;utird, and named La
Rauine, who was shot tlir.ugh the thigh on this occasion, was
latfily living on the River Sorel, and may be still alive — he was
seutmel in the path. — (I'rivate communicatioQ from Canada, Jan,
25, 1824.)

■1'

I ■ .

284 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC.

would have been inevitably lost; but having gained
the heights, he formed his troops, and met the ene-
my in good order.

The plains of Abraham lie South and West of
Quebec, and commence the moment you leave the
walls of the city. They are a very elevated tract
of ground ; this must of course be the fact, as they
are on the summit of the heights which terminate at
the river; they are nearly level— -free from trees and
all other obstacles, and I presume were nearly so*
at the time of the battle. Our military friend, Cap-
tain , with true professional feeling, remarked,

that it was "a fine place for a battle,*^ I went to
the brink of the precipice, where my guide assured
me that Wolfe and the army came up ; a foot path,
much trodden, leads through low bushes to the spot.
I presume, that five hundred men, posted on this
edge, would have repelled the whole army.

It was abput an hour before the dawn, that the
army began to ascend the precipice, and by day
light, they were formed and in perfect preparation,
to meet the enemy.

The Marquis de Montcalm, was no sooner in-
formed, that the English troops were in possession
of the heights of Abraham, than he prepared to
fight them, and for this purpose marched his army
across the Charles, from his entrenchments at
Beauport, and between nine and ten o'clock the two
armies met, face to face. Montcalm's numbers
were nearly the same as those of the £nglit>h army,

* Except perhaps on their coDfines.

) QUEBEC.

it having gained
id met the enc-

th and West of
it you leave the
f elevated tract
he fact, as they
lich terminate at
le from trees and
were nearly so*
tary friend, Cap-
eling, remarked,
[//«.*' I went to
iiy guide assured
up ; a foot path,
ushes to the spot,
n, posted on this
ole army,
le dawn, that the
)ice, and by day
rfcct preparation,

as no sooner in-
rere in possession
1 he prepared to
marched his army
entrenchments at
en o'clock the two
ntcalm's numbers
the English army,
confines.

TOUR UETWKEN HAKTFOflD AND QIJEBEC. 206

but nearly half of his troops were Indians and Ca-
nadians, while the whole of Wolfe's were disciplin-
ed corps of the be^^t description. The French
general could not now, as at Montmorenci, avail
himself of the cover of entrenchments, behind
which undisciplined troops, especially if skilled in
marksmanship, have often repelled the assaults of
veterans.

Montcalm made, however, the best possible dis-
position of his troops — apportioning his regulars, in
such distinct bodies, along the line, as to sup])ort
the irregulars, in the most effectual manner. In front,
among the corniields and bushes, he placed one
thousand five hundred of his best marksmen, prin-
cipally Indians and Canadians, whose destructive fire
was patiently borne by the British line;* but they
reserved their own till the enemy, whose main body
they perceived rapidly advancing, was within forty
yards, when it was poured in upon the French,
and continued with such deadly effect, that it could
not be withstood. The French fought bravely, but
they were broken, and notwithstanding one or two
efforts to make a stand, and renew the attack, they
were so successfully pushed by the British bayonet,
and hewn down by the Highland broad sword, that
their discomfiture was complete. The battle was
particularly severe on the French left, and the Eng-
lish right. This ground is very near the St. Law-

•The adranced guards had exchanged sliots for some hoars

before.

i 'V

}'{

' w

■-.. „.«►•■«•—'

*>s

( !

2B6 TOUK BETWEEN HARTFORD AND (iUEBEU.

rence, and but a little distance in front of the cita-
del, and all the events that passed there, must have
been distinctly seen by those on the walls of Que-
bec. It must have been a most interesting spec-
tacle, and we can easily enter into the feelings of
the American French, who viewed their country
and their city, and their firesides and homes, as in-
volved in the issue of this battle. With what emo-
tions then, must they have seen their defenders, not
only falling in the ranks, but driven by the furious
onset of the enemy, to the walls of the city, where
they were slaughtered by the bayonet and broad
sword; on the very glacis, and in the ditches, im-
mediately under their eyes* About one thousand
of the French were killed and wounded, and more
than half that number of the English, and it is
thought that the French army would have been to-
tally destroyed, if the city had not opened its gates,
to receive a part, and if another part had not taken
refuge in the works over the St. Charles.

Montcalm was on the French left, and Wolfe on
the English right, and here they both fell in the
critical moment that decided the victory. Wolfe,
early in the action, received a bullet in his wrist, but
he bound it around with his handkerchief, and con-
tinued to encourage his troops; soon after, another
ball penetrated his groin, but this wound, although
much more severe, he concealed, and persevered,
till a third bullet pierced his breast. It was not till
that moment, that he submitted to be carried into

•*. - ^

(iU£lSLC.

nt of the cita-
ere, must have
walls of Que-
:eresting spec-
the feelings of

their country
I homes, as in-
ith what emo-
defenders, not
by the furious
he city, where
net and broad
le ditches, im-
; one thousand
ded, and nnore
lish, and it is
have been to-
kened its gates,
t had not taken
irles.

, and Wolfe on
oth fell in the
:tory. Wolfe,
in his wrist, but
chief, and con-
1 after, another
ound, although
nd persevered,

It was not till
)e carried into

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND (JUEBEC. 287

ihe rear of the line : he was no longer able to stand,
and leaned his head upon the shoulder of a lieuten-
ant, who sat down for that purpose — when, being
aroused by the distant sound of " they fly — they
fly," he eagerly asked, " who fly ?" and being told
it was the French, he replied, then " I die happy."
He asked to be sustained on his feet, that he might
once more behold the field, but his eyes were al-
ready swimming in death, his vision was gone, and
he expired on the spot. This death has furnished
a grand and pathetic subject for the painter, the
poet, and the historian, and undoubtedly (consider-
ed as a specimen of mere military glory,) it is one
of the most sublime that the annals of war aflbrd.
From my earliest childhood, I had ardently wished
to see the plains of Abraham, and to stand on the
place where Wolfe expired. To-day I enjoyed that
pensive satisfaction, and easily passed in imagina-
tion, from the quiet and security in which we saw
these beautiful plains, to the tremendous collision
of ten thousand men in arms.

A round stone of red granite, four or five feet in
circumference by two or three in diameter — not a
fixed rock, but a loose stone, marks the spot where
Wolfe expired in the moment of victory. This stone
was placed here thirty years after the battle*— and is
one of the four stones arrai)gc<l in a meridian line by
the surveyor general of Canada, in 1790, for the pur-
pose of adjusting the instruments used in the public

^Bouohctte

I. ;

t s

Ifl

•1(1

--y*'

r>.'*'

288 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC.

surveys of land. This stone has been so much round-
ed, by having portions detached by visitors, that it
was , with the utmost difficulty I could knock
ofTa small piece. Fortunately, the entire stone
is too large to be carried away, and it cannot be
broken to pieces, except by gunpowder.
. A fine mounument to Lord Nelson, graces the
market place in Montreal — but there is no monu-
ment to Wolfe, even on the spot where he fell.

When I expressed to an English officer, my sur-
prise at this omission, he reminded me, (what in-
deed might have been very obvious upon a little re-
flection,) that the feelings of a French population
wore not to be forgotten, and, that such a monument
might be offensive to them.*

The victorious hero has engrossed the plaudits of
the world, but Montcalm deserved as much com-
mendation as Wolfe. Except the massacre at Fort
William Henry, (which, however, it is said he ex-
erted himself, although unsuccessfully, to prevent,)
I know of no other imputation on his memory ; and
in talent, military skill, and personal courage, and
devotion to his king and country, he was in no way
inferior to his rival. He survived long enough to
write a letter, with his own hand, to the English

* Nearly opposite to our lodgings in St. Juhn-strcet, is the only
monumeut to VVolf-, which we saw in Quebec. It is a statue, 1
believe, of wood, handsomely carved, and about as large as life ;
it is in the milit»ry costume of that day, and is said to be a gooU
liken«>99 of VVolfc. It «tand» in a niche, in the angle of a bouse,
or aliop, and exposed to the weather.

'; •

QUEBEC.

> much round-
isitors, that it
could knock
entire stone
it cannot be
ler.

>n, graces the
is no monu-
re he fell,
ficer, my sur-
me, (what in-
pon a little re-
ch population
li a monument

the plaudits of
as much com-
ssacre at Fort
is said he ex-
U to prevent,)
memory ; and
courage, and
(vas in no way
)ng enough to
to the English

street, is the only
. It is a statue, 1
It as large as life ;
said to be a g;ooU
angle of a bouse,

\\\

TOUR BETWEEN HAUTFORD AND QUEBEC. 289

General, recommending the French prisoners to
his humanity, and, when informed that his wound
was mortal, he expressed great satisfaction that he
should not live to see the fall of Quebec, which
capitulated five days after. Montcalm's second in
command, General Senezergus, also died of his
wounds. „

Had Montcalm succeeded in preserving Canada
from conquest, and had Quebec been successfully
defended by his valor, his fame would have been
extolled as much as that of Wolfe now is.

This victory was, in its consequences, of immense
importance. It eventually terminated a long course
of bloody wars ; it gave permanent peace and secu-
rity to the English colonies, rescued their vast fron-
tier from all the horrors of savage warfare, and
even contributed largely to the general pacification
of Europe. It is one of the great epochs of Amer-
ican history. The French dominion in America,
utterly incompatible with the repose or safety of
the English settlements, and, after enduring one
hundred and fifly years, was soon to be finally ter-
minated. Thus a providence, probably at the time
unseen and unobserved, by any of the parties, was
preparing the way for American independence.

No American can, therefore, contemplate with
indifTerence, the spot where Wolfe fell, and so mu
gallant blood was spilt.

The French had still a powerful army, and some
naval force about the city, and in the ensuing

25*

Si» v

■\"

» ■

/ t-

290 TOUR BETWEEN HAHTFORD AND QUEBEC.

! i I

'J t

spring, Monsieur Levi approached it from Mon-
treal, for the purpose of recovering it from the Eng-
lish. General Murray, who commanded in Que-
bec, marched out to meet him, and, on the 28th of
April, 1760, a bloody battle occurred, three miles
above the city, at Sillery ; the English army, very
much inferior in numbers, to the French, was se-
verely defeated, with the loss of one thousand men,
and the French, it is said, suffered still more. The
English retreated into Quebec, to which the French
now laid siege, and, very possibly, would have re-
duced it, but for the arrival of an English squadron,
with reinforcements, when they abandoned the
seige, and retired up the river.

How large a portion of the history of modern
Europe is occupied by the wars of England and
France ! What rivers of each other's blood, as
well as of the blood of other nations, have not these
rival empires shed ! Heroic, enlightened, refined,
learned, enterprising, both claiming the name of
christian } had their efforts been equally directed
to promote the welfare of their own respective do-
minions, of each other, and of the world, by culti-
vating the arts of peace, and the virtues of civil life,
what good might they not have done! But like
ferocious beasts of prey, they have hunted each
other out of every niche and corner of the globe ;
every colony, every little cluster of traders, or of
agriculturalists — every wandering bark, if belonging
to the rival power, has been exposed to these cruel
assaults.

QUEBEC.

from Mon-
rom the Eng-
ded in Que-
ll the 28th of

three miles
1 army, very
3nch, was se-
lousand men,
1 more. The
;h the French
ould have re-
ish squadron,
andoned the

ry of modern
England and
ir's blood, as
lave not these
;ned, refined,
the name of
Lially directed
cspective do-
Drld, by culti-
J8 of civil life,
ne! But like
hunted each
of the globe ;
traders, or of
{, if belonging
to these cruel

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 29 1

In which quarter of the world, on what ocean or
sea, in what country, on what island, or on what
coast, of remotest India or America, have they not
opened each other's veins, till the earth cries out
upon them, for blood unrighteously shed ?

FORTIFICATIONS OF QUEBEC.

The strongest town in America, and one of the
strongest in the world, demands a brief notice in
this respect, although it will be such, as one unskil-
led in military affairs, can give.

It is quite obvious, from what has been said, that
Quebec is possessed of great natural advantages.
The lofty perpendicular precipices of naked rock,
which, on the south and east, separate a great part
of the lower town from the upper, constitute, in
themselves, on those sides, an insurmountable bar-
rier ; the river Charles, with its shallow waters, and
low flats, of sand and mud, drained almost dry, by
the retiring of the tide, forms an insuperable impe-
diment to the erection of commanding works, or to
the access of ships on the east and north, not to
mention that all this ground is perfectly commanded,
by the guns from the upper town. The only vul-
nerable point is on the west and south, from the
plains of Abraham. Cape Diamond, the highest
point of the town, it is true, is rather more elevated
than any part of the plains,^ but the highest ground

*' Only ten or fifteeo (ect.^ Bouehelte.

•*»

t. <

r/-'*'
..^

-r^

I ! J!

292 TOTJR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND (^T'EREC.

^ *

. .1:

on the plains of Abraham, (the place which is called
Ferguson's house,) " commands most of the works
on this side of the town ;" besides, there is no bar-
pier of rock, no river, ravine, marsh, or other natu-
ral obstacle, to hinder an approach upon this side ;
this is the vulnerable side of Quebec, and here,
therefore, it is fortified with the most anxious care.

" The distance across the peninsula, from one
river to the other, in front of the line of fortification,
is one thousand, eight hundred thirty-seven yards,"*
or very nearly, one mile — the circuit within the
walls, is two miles and three quarters — immediate-
ly without, it is probably three miles, and the aver-
age diameter is one thousand five hundred yards,
or very nearly six sevenths of a mile.

A complete wall of massy hewn stone, construct-
ed with elegance, as well as strength, completely
encircles the town, and is furnished with strong
massy arches and gates, and with deep ditches.

It reminded me, much more than any thing that
I have seen, either in England, or in my own coun-
try, of the strong places of the Netherlands, partic-
ularly of Breda, and of Bergen op Zoom.

The walls of Quebec vary much, in difierent
parts, in height and thickness. Every where, how-
ever, they are high enough to render escalade very
difficult, and a breach almost hopeless. In the
strongest parts, next to the plains of Abraham, they

* Bouchette.

f^TEREC.

fOUtt BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 293

■ \:

hichis called
of the works
ere is no bar-
•r other natu-
)on this side ;
c, and here,
inxious care,
la, from one
fortification,
iven yards,''*
it within the
— immediate-
ind the aver-
indred yards,

le, construct-
completely
1 with strong
ditches,
ny thing that
ly own coun-
lands, partic-
>m.
in different
where, how-
iscalade very
2ss. In the
braham, they

appeared to me forty or fifty feet thick, and equally
high. Even the lofty precipices of naked rock, are
surmounted with a stone wall, and with cannon, and
the highest points are crowned with towers, and dis-
tinct batteries. In general, the curtains of the wall
are looped for musketry, and projecting bastions
present their artillery towards the assailants, in every
direction, and, of course, so as to rake the ditches.
A military man at Quebec remarked to me, that, in
storming a place, they preferred attacking the bat-
tery or bastion, rather than the curtain, because
the cross fire cuts down so many in the ditches.
' When we visited the plains of Abraham, we drove
out and in by the gate St. Louis, where the wall
appeared to be fifty feet thick, and nearly as high ;
this was the judgment we formed, without eiitquiry
— I need not say, without measurement.* A deep
ditch succeeds, and then there is an exterior, but
lower wall, and another ditch, both of which must
be scaled, before the main wall can be approached.
A storming party would be dreadfully exposed,
while mounting this exterior wall. The avenue to
the gate is bounded, on both sides, by a high wall,
and makes several turns, in zigzag. At every turn,
cannon point directly at the approaches ; and gen-
erally, down every ditch, and in every possible di-
rection, where the walls can be approached, great
guns are ready to cut down the assailants.

* We were afterwards informed by a British,officer, that actual
measurement gave this result

X 1

294 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC.

I have sevenal times remarkecl, that the promon-
tory of rock, which constitutes the loftiest point of
the upper town, is called Cape Diamond, and that,
upon this, is erected the famous citadel of Quebec.
This is not, as one might suppose, a building, or
castle, covered with a roof; it is open to the heav-
ens, and differs from the rest of the works, only in
being more elevated, stronger, and therefore more
commanding.*

The highest part of the citadel, is Brock's bat-
tery, which is a mound, artifically rais^ !, higher
than every thing else, and mounted with cannon,
pointing towards the plains of Abraham. It was
named after General Brock, who fell at Queens-
town, and was erected during the late war, about
<^he ti'tjc that Montreal was threatened, by Gen-
Crkis Wilkinson and Hampton. This commands
every part of the works on that side, and is intend-
ed, I presume, besides the general objects of de-
fence, to operate, in the last resort, on an enemy
who may scale all the other walls. The citadel is
forbidden ground, and, by rule, no person, not be-
longing to the military, or the supreme government
is admitted into it.

By special favor, however, we enjoyed this grati-
fication ; the sentry, at first, refused to let us pass,
although under patronage which commanded his res-
pect ; but atlength, with much reluctance, he yielded.

* As I saw it in 1819> now (in 1824,) such important additions
have been made to the citadel, that I know not whether this part
ef the text is correct.

^' 'i

the promoii*
ftiest point of
»nd, and that,
;1 ofQuebec.
building, or
to the heav-
^orks, only in
erefore njore

Brock's bat-
lis' \f higher
ivith cannon,
lam. It was
1 at Queens-
e war, about
ed, by Gen-
18 commands
nd is intend-
bjects of de-
on an enemy
^he citadel is
rson, not be-
: government

ed this grati-
let us pass,
nded his res-
£3, he yielded.

lortant additions
hetber tUis part

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND qtTEnEC. 29if

This course of conduct is usual in such places,
and may be judicious here, as preventing numcous
and troublesome visits, but it appears very unneces-
sary in a military point of view, for, the more the
strength of the citadel is made known, the less dis-
posed, I am persuaded, will any enemy be to aUack
it. Commodore Bninbridge, during his recent vis-
it here, (I understand,) was freely shown the citadel
and every part of the fortifications; an<) I heard a
British officer say, that, in his view, it was quite ri-
diculous to pursue any other course, and to pretend
to any secrecy about the thing. Still, however, I
suppose the officers to have orders from their supe-
riors, not to introduce persons here, for the day af-
ter we had been in the citadel, I was with two Brit-
ish military men, of considerable professional and
official influence, and, while they were showing me
some apartments, contiguous to the citadel, 1 hinted
a wish to see it, if it coujd be permitted, but was
answered politely^ although decidedly^ that it could
not. I did not tell them that I had already seenit.*

Every other part of the fortifications may be free-
ly visited by every body, but, on the side next to
the St. Charles river, the sentry refused to permit
me to approach the embrasure ; I wished to see how
high the wall was at that place.

* I understand, that now, (1824,) there is no longer aiy seriout
(lifTioulty ia bbtainia^ admission to $ee Cape Diamond.

-J ^

'M:

\%:.

h M

I;, a

29G TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AM) QUEBEC.

From the citadel,* the view of the river, of the
town, and of the surrounding country, is, of course,
extremely grand and beautiful, but, in this instance,
the rapid advance of evening, rendered the distant
objects indistinct. We were, however, very forci-
bly struck with the formidable preparations, which
seem on all sides, to render an attack upon the place
a hopeless enterprise. Within the walls are nu-
merous magazines, furnished with every implement
and preparation, and more or less proof against the
various missiles of war. Piles of cannon balls are
every where to be seen, and, 1 presume there are
some hundreds of heavy cannon mounted on the
walls, and in the various defences. About forty
acres of ground, within Cape Diamond, are reserved
for military works.f

Beyond the walls, on the plains of Abraham, are
the four Martcllo towers, already mentioned ; they
are solidly constructec! jf stone, and appear to be
forty feet high, and, at the base, have probably a
diameter not much inferior ; as they have cannon
on their tops, they, of course, sweep the whole
plain, and effectually command it; the particular
object of their construction, was to prevent an ene-
my from occupying the high ground, on the plains

* A new citadel is now erecting on Cape Diamond, as strong as
the modern improvements in fortification can make it (Private
communication from Canada, Jan. 25. 1824.)

-^ Bouchette.

^i^.

qUEBEC.

river, of the
is, of course,
this instance,
d the distant
ir, very forci-
ations, which
pon the place
«ralls are nu-
iry implement
)of against the
uon balls are
ime there are
)unted on the
About forty
I, are reserved

Abraham, are
ntioned ; they

appear to be
ive probably a

have cannon
the whole
the particular
revent an ene-

on the plains

mond, as strong as
take it. (Private

TOUR BETWEEN' HARTFORD AND UUE. £C. 297

of Abraham. These towers are very strong, on
the side most remote from the town, and weaker on
the side next to it, that they may be battered from
it, should an enemy obtain possession of them.

On the whole, as long as the river is in possession
of those who defend the town, and as long as the
latter is sufficiently furnished with men, and other
means necessary to render its fortifications efficient,
there appears little hope of taking it at all, and
certainly not without such an expense of blood, as
it is very painful to contemplate.

An officer of the garrison informed us, that it
took him one hour and a half, merely to visit all the
sentinels on duty, upon the various stations on the
walls; this appears to evince, that the walls cannot
be much less than three miles in circuit; and the
same military man gave it as his opinion, that it
would require at least ten thousand men for a com-
petent garrison.

The cold is so intense in the winter nights, par-
ticularly on Cape Diamond, that the sentinels can-
not stand it more than one hour,* and are relieved
at the expiration of that time.

It is in vain to attempt to conceal, that the Cana-
dians, and the government, in their various defen-

* And even, as it is said, at much shorter intervals, in cases of
the most extreme cold, reaching probably, almost or quite, to the
freezing point of quicksilver.

The present winter, 1S23-4, the public prints inform us that the
cold has reached 41 degrees below at Quebec.

t-A^

I \ I

. I

298 TOUR r,ETvvEi:x iiautford and Quebec .

ces, (and it is said that still more expensive works
are in contemplation,*) have reference to danger
from only one source.

It is to be hoped that the attempt to take Quebec
by force, will never again be made, for, if it has al-
ready cost so much blood, with defences compara-
tively weak, what would it not cost now ?f

GEOLOGICAL REMARKS.

The limited opportunities which I have enjoyed,
of examining the geology of this vicinity, have led,
rather to isolated, than to connected observations.
It has not been in my power to ascertain the bear-
ing and relations of these facts, and this I regret the
more, as it is probable that interesting results would
be obtained, by a more extended and connected
survey.

* We are recently informed, by the newspapers, that these new
works are going on yery rapidly. July, UJ20.

t Going into a book-store in Quebec, I observed in one of the
Gazettes of the city, a paragraph, copied from a recent American
paper, to this efiect, that, if it should be ever desirable to take
Quebec, it could, at any time, be easily done, in two months, at
the point of Iht bayonet. Surely such a remark is indecent, with
respect to a people, with whom we are now in amity ; and, to any
one who has ever seen Quebec, it appears superlatively ridicu-
lous, and only exposes us to contempt ; an effort to take the moon
al the point of the bayonetf would be almost equally rational.

tUEBIIC .

jnsive works
;e to danger

take Quebec
*, if it has al-
es compara-

■?t

ave enjoyed,
ty, have led,
)bservations.
lin the bear-
3 1 regret the
esults would
connected

i, that these new

jd in one of the
ecent American
esirable to take
two months, at
indecent, with
ty ; and, to any
atively ridicu-
ttike the moon
y rational.

TOUfi liKTWEEN ilAIlTPOUlJ AM) (iLKHEf;. 299

In speaking of the mouth of the ClKuuliere river,
I have ah-eady observed, th;it j^ray wackc forms the
clitls on the eastern side. It has never before fallen
to my lot, to observe this rock on so great a scale.
It occurs in a scirnlo^o form, at the falls of the
Chaudiere, and coustitiilc-- a principal part of the
barrier, over which the torrent is precipitated.

On the road from Point Levi to the Chandiere
river, and for several miles before we arrive at the
latter, vast ledges of common gray wacke, rise above
the surface of the ground, and form a continued
chain of rocks, of a very peculiar physiognomy, and
very diderent from those rocks, with which I have
been most familiar. This gray wacke is of a most
indubitable character, and varies from coarse to fine
grained; in the coarsest kind, the individual por-
tions are not larger than peas, and I have observed
a very fine grained kind, with which they pave some
of the streets in Quebec ; its grain is so small, as to
be almost imperceptible. I did not learn whence
it is brought.

At Point Levi, the road up the precipice, from
the river's edge, is cut with much labour, through
cliffs of slate, very highly inclined — much contort-
ed, and containing imbedded limestone, which ap-
peared to me like that of the transition class; but
my examination was very hasty and slight.

It is very probable that this forniaiion extends
under the bed of ( je river, and substantially ap-
pears again in the precipices of Quebec, which I

r:'

Ifl

<■;)

4 111

II I ^ ifi.

H (

>:i

300 TOCil liETWEE.V HAIlTrOKD A^•I) CtUELKC.

tbund an opportunity to examine with some atten-
tion.

The name of Cape Diamond, is derived frofri
the fact, that what the common people every where
call diamonds, or, in other words rock crystals arc
found in this rock and at its foot.

I walked around these precipices, with my ham-
mer in my hand, and observed the crystals in their
places ; they occur in veins, in argiliite or slate,
along with crystallized carbonate of lime. I passed
through the gate, on the north east, and de-
scended the oblique road, whieh leads to the lower
town ; this street is, in a manner, cut out of the
rocky strata, and I had very good opportunities to
observe them ; I continued my examination around
at the foot of the precipices beyond Cape Diamond,
and almost to the plains of Abraham.

The fortifications of Quebec stand principally
upon, and are composed chiefly of slate rock and
of the fetid limestone; the slate is highly inclined,
and is sometimes remarkably twisted and irregular
in its arrangement*, the colour is dark — almost
black, and it is often fetid when struck. This is
explained by its association with compact fetid
limestone, which abounds in many parts of these
ledges, and is replete with veins of white or slightly
coloured calcareous spar — sometimes fibrous in its
structure and sometimes distinctly crystallized. I
observed the same rocks appoaring in the upper
town, in various places, and esprcially where thfy

some attcn-

Jerivcd frotri

every where

k crystals are

vith my ham-
y^stals in their
llite or slate,
me. I passed
ast, and de-
s to the lower
it out of the
portunities to
nation around
ape Diamond,

id principally
late rock and
ghly inclined,
and irregular
dark — almost
uck. This is
ompact fetid
arts of these
lite or slightly
fibrous in its
ystallizcd. 1
in the upper
where ihoy

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD A^D qUEBEC. 301

were cutting a drain near the prison. Dr. Wright,
the Inspector General of Hospitals at Quebec, was
kind enough to show me a collection, which he is
forming, of the rocks and minerals of the country,
and among them were a good many specimens from
Upper Canada. I was much gratified to see such a
beginning in Quebec, and from the zeal and intelli-
gence of Dr. Wright and of Dr. Bigsby* of the
same department — may we not hope that we shall
become much more extensively informed than now,
as to the mineralogy and geoloicy of the Canadas ?

The very highly inclined position, sometimes al-
most vertical, and the contorted structure of the
slate of Quebec — with the abundance of perfectly
limpid quartz crystals, occtisionally an inch in
length, that are sprinkled between the layers of
slate, giving it often an elegant appearance, seem to
forbid our regardiiig it as secondary, notwithstand-
ing its association with the blnck, compact, fetid
limestone, and its being itself (occasioiinlly at least)
fetid, on percussion. I am told, ti)at both the
slato and the limestone, as well as strata of wacke,
(gray wacke ?) are subordinate to gneiss mounlains,
which run east south-east, and rast norlh-east dipping
southerly at a verv elevated an2;le. On the whole,
nsthe slate is the prevailing rock, and as the region
on the other side of tiie St. Lawrence, is decidedly
a transition formation, 1 am inclined to refer the

* This summer acting with the commijsiouers of boiinJaiies c»
the great lakes.

26*

J i :

1 i

»1

^''i

30i TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND qUEBEC.

(

ii \

if )

1 *

rock of Quebec to the same class. The crystals
of quartz were formerly more abundant, und proba-
bly, more beautiful, than at present.

1 found numbers however, that were not only
transparent and beautiful, but crystallized all around.
As I was hammering upon a rock, to which 1 had
climbed, so far up one of the precipices, that 1 was
above the chimnies of the houses, in the contiguous
parts of the lower town, a man came running out,
and with a French accent, and much vehement ges-
ture and expostulaiion, conjured me to desist, un-
less I meant to bury him and his house in ruins, by
causing the rocks to fall. I saw no danger, as the
rocks appeared tolerably firm, but of course desist-
ed and came down. Indeed so large a number of
the houses in the lower town are built against the
foot of the precipice, or very near it, that the rocks
look as if t})«>y might at any time fall and crush
them; it would seem as if they must of course do
so, should any of them give way. We were inform-
ed that a great mass fell, recently, and much en-
dangered many houses, but happily missed them ;
one house is said to have been crushed last winter,
but I did not hear that any life was lost.

I examined the rocks on the plains of Abraham,
and particularly near where General Wolfe died,
for there was an open quarry at that place ; they
were slate of the same description with the preci-
pices at Cape Diamond, and I observed no other
on the plains, and none in the rocks of the town.

QUEBEC*

The crystals
t, und proba-

re not only
)d all around.

which 1 had
>s, that 1 was
e contiguous

running out,
jhement ges-

desist, un-
! in ruins, by
inger, as the
;oursc desist-

1 number of
; against the
hat the rocks

11 and crush
of course do
were inform-
much en-
nissed them ;
d last winter,
t.

of Abraham,
Wolfe died,

place ; they
th the preci-
ed no other
of the town.

^ (

TOUR BETWEE HABTFOKD AND QUEBEC. 303

but slate and the svyinestone ; these two stones
are almost exclusively employed in building, and
the walls as already observed, are constructed prin-
cipally of them.

NOTES ON THE MINERALOGY OF QUEBEC,

Furnished by a Scientific Friend.

The promontory on which stand the city of Que-
bec, and its fortifications, to the south-east, is a near-
ly perpendicular escarpment, varying in height
from two hundred to three hundred and seventy feet.
Towards the N. and N. W. it slopes in abrupt de-
clivities for twelve or fifteen hundred yards, and ter-
minates in the valley of the St. Charles by a long and
somewhat shivered precipice, about eighty feet high.

The great body of this celebrated rock is brown-
ish, or bluish black limestone, without lustre, of ve-
ry conchoidal fracture, of variable hardness, of the
sp. gr. 2.5 or 2.6 and effervescing on exposure to
acids.

It is more or less slaty : — the majority of its lam-
ina; are a foot thick, but many are quits shaly, when a
degree of lustre is observable.

The strata are placed at an high angle with a
S. £. dip; frequently they are vertical, as on the
face of some parts of Cape Diamond ; and occa-
sionally the dip is N. W. The precipice at the
west end of Sault au Matelot Street in the lower

«n|

(

304 TOWR. BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBKC,

: fi

h \

Pi I Hi/ •• *

town, exhibits some singular but not unprecedent-
ed contortions in its layers. Two contiguou s
strata, (followed in a less degree by the surrounding
ones) slowly open, and in the space of eight or ten
yards rejoin each other leaving an oval interval some
yards broad, resembling the belly of a vein, — and
filled with the black limestone of the locality, so
traversed by veins of bitter spar that it is not possi-
ble to trace in it any particular structure. Great
disorder exists in other parts of this neighbourhood.
Three hundred yards to the W. the strata runs S. E.
and dip vertically ; and on advancing still westward
are fonnd to have even a soutii-west inclination.

In the quarries of the sui)ui hj? ot' St. John, the
direction and dip of the rock are obscured bv an
assemblage of what, on a hasty visit, I am inclined
to cotnider natural cleav;it^es of j^reat dimensions.
These cleavages have often the high polish and
metallic glaze of pottery — an appearance also ob-
served on many of those continuous tiheets of rock,
several hundred feet square, which form the face
of the precipice overlooking the St. Lawrence, at
the iarther end of Champlain street, 'i'heir colors
are black, brown and red. These smooth faces arc
not uncommon elsewhore, and are also frctjuently
covered, in patchcj*, with the black limestone, in
doughy c«atings<, in hi^h relieved, and extended
limbs, as if (iicy had flowed, lava-like, in a semi-
fluid state. 'J'his is quite common in jrrav warke,
and is daily seen in the action of temporary tor-

unprecedent-
> cotTtiguou s
; surrounding

eight or ten
interval some
a vein, — and

locality, so

is not possi-
;ture. Great
igbbourhood.
ita runs S. E.
still westward
clination.
1. Jolin, the
scured by an
i am inclined

dimensions.
) polish and
Mcc also ob-
eets of rock,
»rm the face
(iwrence, at
'J'hcir colors
)tli faces arc
o frctjuently
mestonc, in

id extended
in a semi-
(fay wafke,

iporary tor-

TOUR BETWEEN UARTFOllD AM) QUERKC;. 305

rents on sandy cliffs Large masses of earth fall
into the ravine, the streamlet, for the moment, flows
of the consistence of soft paste, overspreading the
neighboring grounds, and on the outskirts of its in-
fluence, consolidates, in branch-like prolongations,
raised above the surface over which they ramify.

Conglomerates and gray wacke are interleaved
conformably with various parts of the rock of Que-
bec ; but they are in very inconsiderable proportion
to the whole mass. They ere most numerous on
the northern and northwestern side of the promon>
tory : and at the place near Sauit au Matelot Street,
already noticed for the irregular disposition of its
strata, the entire face of the precipice consists of a
calcareous conglomerate, of rounded ash colored
nodules of very various sizes, scattered sparingly
through L dark cement — the common rock proba-
bly. It extends some hundred yards westward,
and is lost in the body of the hill.

From Palace Gate, west, along the cliff over-
hanging St. Roche, layers from one to twelve feet
broad, of another species of puddingstone, are inter-
posed between the strata of black limestone. Two
are visible near Palace Gate and one in Major
D'Estimauville's garden in the suburb of St. John.
The matrix and its contents are in equal proportion,
and are well mixed. The nodules are seldom so
large as an inch square ; and are often rounded.
The general colour is greyish brown. A disagree-
able odour is perceptible on percussion. Fragments

\ P

:VI

^ •*■

06 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC.

••f .

of chlorite, and grains of iron pyrites are often imbed-
ded in it.

In tljc face of tiie precipice below, and to the cast
of Major D' Estiniauviile'S 2; u-den, there is a largo
oval bed of this piuldiiie;^itoiifi contained in the stra-
tified rock ; — into which it penetrates in numerous
veins.

In St. John's suburbs, from this garden, about
N. E. five hundred yards (speaking loosely) a kind of
puddingstone similar to the one first mentioned ap-
pears. It is twelve feet broad ; the nodules are ve-
ry small, sparing and rounded.

On the left of the foot of the first descent into St.
Roche's from St. John^s Gate, opposite to Mr.
Shepherd's excellent house, layers of light brown
homogeneous limestone, of small breadth, alternate
several times with the black species. Their tex-
ture is indistinctly crystalline.

The gray wacke is well defined, very compact,
and makes its appearance in the ditch to the left of
St. John's gate. By reason of its situation it is on-
ly visible for 50 yards. It dips S, E. at a high an-
gle, and is rcmaikable in being at one part 12 feet
broad and at some distance from thence only six.
Another stratum of gray wacke, I am informed, is
to be seen on Cape Diamond, in an excavation which
is now filled with water.

The accidental minerals of this limestone arc as
follows. There are the white rhomboidal calcspar
in large masses, and in veins of large size :•— a fibrous;

"•''«Jv,-,*'»-*i»»'

•tJEBEt;.

Dften imbed-

d to the cast
re is a largo
1 in the stra-
in numerous

irden, about
?ly) a kind of
lentioned ap-
dules are ve-

scent into St.
osite to Mr.
' light brown
idth, alternate
1 Their tex-

ery compact,
to the left of
ation it is on-
t a high on*
c part 12 feet
\ce only six.
informed, is
vation which

estone are as
)idal calcspar
le:— afibrou«?

TOUR BETWEEN UAUTB'OUD ANu Q,UEBEC. 307

calcspar in mass, but without the lustre of satin spar:
the cubic, rhomboidal, pyramidal, and pearl spar
crystals, variously modified, and lastly numerous
clusters of opaque white capillary crystals, two thirds
of an inch long at most, super-imposed on their ends,
and radiating from a point in an extremely beautiful
manner. They effervesce on exposure to acids.
All these spt* cies occupy drusy cavities and the sur-
face of the strata ; and are greatly intermixed with
themselves and with the fine rock crystals which arc
found here in great abundance. Their form is the
six sided prism with the ordinary pyramidal acu-
minations. They are often much flattened, and
are seldom equiangular. The prism not unusually
disappears, leaving a twelve sided crystal. They
are not often imbedded, but usually super-im-
posed, laterally or terminally. The crystals are
single or agglutinated masses, being in the latter
case full of rents and of a brown earthy matter, or
in rare instances containing a drop of pale bitumin-
ous oil. They are either colorless, with an ex-
tremely high lustre, or of a smoke brown hue.

Minute seams of coal, very light, jet black, shin-
ing, have been met with in the cliff of the Grand
Battery.

A few drachms of a black pitchy matter are oc-
casionally collected from the cavities of the rock —
but it has not hitherto been examined.

Some workmen, while blasting on Cape Dia-
mond, laid open a small druse of calcspar accom-

• J

i VI

V i| i

1 1

■V

1 1

'' I

■.•' ^--

I i

308 TOLU BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC.

panied by two rudely crystallized masses of fluor
spar. I have not applied any tests ; but feel as-
sured they are fluor.

Helitrope is found loose in considerable quanti-
ties on the outside of St. Louis' Gate — I have not
seen it in place. It polishes excellently.

] consider the Linncstone of Quebec to belong
to the transition class of rocks, from its composi-
tion and structure, from its inclination, and from its
being conformable to the vast transition formations,
t^'ith which it is surrounded, excepting in the di-
iVection of Beauport. The altenations of common
slate — grey wacke — quartz rock and chlorite slate,
which constitute this intermediate order recline
on the north upon mountains of gneiss, mica slate
and various forms of granite, rocks which they
again meet on the southern frontiers of Lower
Canada. The horizontal lime stone, of Beauport
and Montmorenci, is in all probability a projection
or tongue of secondary rocks, extended from the
formations of Montreal and the Ottawa ; with
which they correspond in character, and with which
I believe them to be connected in fact.

DEATH OF GENERAL MONTGOMERY.

Every American on visiting Quebec, of course,
inquires for the place, where Montgomery and his
associates fell. This question 1 proposed many
times, without being able to obtain a satisfactory an-

■ v-;?::

QU£U£C.

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND ^UCBP.C. 309

sses of fluor
but feel as-

irable quanti-
— I have not
tly*

5C to belong
I its composi-
I, and from its
»n formations,
ng in the di-
is of common
chlorite slate,
order recline
5S, mica slate
i which they
srs of Lower
of Beauport
a projection
ded from the
)ttawa ; with
id with which
t.

)MERY.

c, of course,
Kiery and his
)posed many
itisfactorv an-

swer, but, in my mineralogical visit to the lower
town, where I knew that the event occurred, I re-
peated my inquiries, till 1 ascertained the street,
which as described by historians, passes at the foot
of Gape Diamond.

Many persons in Quebec, know little or nothing
of the event, and many more feel no interest in the
topic. I inquired in vain, at several houses and
shops, within a few hundred yards of the placi , till
at last, 1 was so happy as to find an individual, who
appeared to be perfectly acquainted with the whole
transaction, and from the precision ai»d distinctness
of his story, and the clear views he had of the
ground, and of the event, I have no doubt that his
information, as to the place, was correct. He was
confident that he shewed me the exact spot where
the barrier stood, from which the fatal shot was
fired, and the precise place where Montgomery
and his companions were cut down. It is
immediately under Cape Diamond, and was, at that
time, as it is now, a very narrow pass, between the
foot of the impending precipice, and the shore; ves-
sels then were moored to rings fixed in the rock,
some of which rings still remain, although wharves
have been since constructed at the water^s edge ;
now there is a road just wide enough for a cart ; it
has been cut out of the solid rock. The American
camp was on the plains of Abraham. Four points
of attack were agreed on — two /f»«/5 against the
walls of the upper town, one at St. John's gate, and

V lis

1 I:

310 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND ^UEBEt;.

the other near the citadel, while two real assaults,
were to be directed against two other points, both
in the lower town, but situated on opposite sides.

General Arnold led a party fronri the plains of
Abraham, around by the river Charles, and assault-
ed the lower town on that side. In the mean time,
General Montgomery approached under Cape Dia-
mond.

The pass at the foot of Cape Diamond, was
probably, then much narrower and more difficult
than at piesent. The attempt was made at five
•'clock, on the morning of December 31, 1775, in
the midst of a Canadian winter, and of a violent
snow-storm, and of darkness. The path, narrow
and difficult at best, was then so much obstructed
by enormous masses of ice, piled on each other, as
io render the way almost impassable.* Montgom-
ery's party were therefore obliged to proceed in a
narrow file, till they reached a picket block house,
which formed the first barrier. The general assist-
ed with his own hands, in cutting down and remov-
ing the pickets, and the Canadian guard, stationed
/or its defence, having thrown away their armj,
fled, after a harmless random fire. The next bar-
rier was much more formidable ; it was a small bat-
tery, whose cannon were lo&ded with grape shot,
and as General Montgomery, with Captains Chees-
man and Macpherson, the latter of whom was his
aid, and others of the bravest of his party, were

Marshall.

Q,UEBEt;.

real assaults,
r points, both
opposite sides,
the plains of
s, and assault-
be mean tinne,
ler Cape Dia-

3iamond, was

more difficult

made at five

r31, 1775, in

of a violent
path, narrow
ch obstructed
3ach other, as
* Montgom-
I proceed in a
: block house,
'eneral assist-
rn and remov-
ird, stationed
y their armi,
^he next bar-
ls a small bat-
1 grape shot,
)tains Chees-
vhom was his

party, were

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 311

pressing forward towards this barrier— a discharge
of grape shot killed the general, and most of those
near his person, and terminated the assault on
that side of the town. It is said that this second
barrier had also been abandoned, but that one or
two persons returning to it, seized a slow match,
and applied it to the gun, when the advancing party
were not more than forty yards from it. This
occurrence has been sometimes differently related.
Some American gentlemen who were at Quebec
about sixteen years since, saw a man, who asserted
that he was the person who touched off the cannon,
and what is very remarkable, he was a New-Eng-
lander. He related, that the barrier was abandon-
ed, and the party who had been stationed at it
were in full flight ; but as it occurred to him, that
there was a loaded cannon, he turned, and dis-
charged it at random, and then ran. This anecdote
I had from one of the gentlemen who conversed
with this man.

That there was some such occurrence, appears
probable, and the following circumstances, having
a similar bearing, were related to me by the person
who shewed me this fatal ground. The spot may
be known at the present moment, by its being
somewhat farther up the river, than the naval depot,
where great numbers of heavy cannon are now
lying. The battery stood on the first gentle decliv-
ity, beyond this pile of cannon, and the deaths hap-
pened on the level ground, about forty yards still

a *i

;c^''J<tJ

^..^ -1

312 TOUR BETWEEN HARTPORD AND QUEBEC.

ii(

farther on. My informant stated, that the people
in the block house, as he called it, loaded their
cannon over night, and retired to rest. It so hap-
pened, (and it was perfectly accidental,) that a
captain of a vessel in the port, lodged in the block
house that night. He was an intemperate man, half
delirious even when most sober, and never minded
any one, or was much listened to by others. Early
on the fatal morning, before light, he exclaimed,

all of a sudden— "they are coming, I s rthey

are coming !" no one regarded him, but he got the
iron rods, which they used to touch off the cannon,
heated them, and fired the pieces.

Immediately, rockets were seen to fly into the
air, which were si^^nals to the party of Arnold, that
all was lost. When light returned, General Mont-
gomery, his aids, and many others, in the whole
twenty-seven, (as he stated,) were found either
dead, or grievously wounded.

Thus, ] have had the melancholy satisfaction of
seeing both where Wolfe and Montgomery fell.
Had the latter succeeded, his enterprise would have
been regarded as more gallant than even that of
Wolfe.

Probably the situation of the defences was very
different then from what it is now; at present,
such an attempt would be perfectly desperate, and
could deserve no name but rashness.

The memory of the transaction appears, in a
great measure, to have passed by, at Quebec, and

QUEBEC.

t the people
loaded their

It so hap-
ttal,) that a
in the block
ite man, half
ever minded
lers. Early

exclaimed,

s r they

it he got the
the cannon,

fly into the
Arnold, that
ineral Mont-
n the whole
bund either

itisfaction of

jomery fell.

would have

ven that of

es was very
at present,
sperate, and

>pears, in a
Quebec, and

TOUR BETWEEN HARTrORD AND QUEBEC. 313

I can even conceive that, in twenty years more, it
may be difficult to have the place accurately desig-
nated. It would be easy now, with permission of
the government, to have an inscription, cut upon
the neighboring precipice of rock, which is not six
feet from the place, and, I presume, were the re-
quest properly preferred, no objection would be
made.

" All enmity to Montgomery expired with his
life, and the respect to his private character pre-
vailed over all other considerations 5 his dead body
received every possible mark of distinction from
the victors, and was interred in Quebec, with all

the military honors due to a brave soldier."

" The most powerful speakers in the British Par-
liament, displayed their eloquence in praising his
virtues, and lamenting his fate. A great orator,
and veteran fellow-soldier of his, in the late war,
shed abundance of tears, whilst he expatiated on
their past friendship and participation of service in
that season of enterprise and glory. Even the min-
ister extolled his virtues."*

During our visit to the citadel, the place of his
interment was pointed out to us. His bones (as is
well known,) were recently transferred to New-
York, more than forty years after their original
interment, and now lie buried, contiguous to the
monument, erected by Congress, in front of St.
Paul's Church.

* Annual Register, for 1776.

07*

♦ -— -.

t t

•«

'B"

•>

314 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND (QUEBEC.

GENERAL ARNOLD'S PARTY.

In the existing accounts of the attack made by
General Arnold's division, it is not easy for a per-
son who is unacquainted with Quebec, to under-
stand, precisely, where the scene of operations
lies, nor how there was to be a co-operation with
General Montgomery. Perhaps the following re-
marks may have a tendency to render this scene
intelligible, and especially to those who may seek
for information on the spot.

General Arnold's party entered through the su-
burb of St. Roch, which lies oo the river St. Charles,
north-west of Quebec, without the walls, and is an
appendage of the lower town. Having been obli-
ged to abandon the only cannon which they had,
they passed, through the street St. Roch, which
leads in a south-west direction, towards the wall,
and then turning to the left, by (he Intendant's
Palace, proceeded on, towards the St. Lawrence,
parallel to the city wall, and at a small distance
from it. Here it was that, during a march of near-
ly half a mile, the party, with very little injury,
sustained the fire on their right flank, from the
walls. Without regarding this heavy fire, they
pressed on towards the enemy's first barrier, which
was in the street called Sault des Matelots.* This
street commences in the lower town, on the St.

* Sec Colonel BouchcUe> plan of Qurbec, \a his topographical
map of Lower Canada,

QUEBEC.
Y.

ick made by
isy for a per-
tc, to under-
>f operations
peration with
following re-
[er this scene
rho may seek

rough the su-
2r St. Charles,
ails, and is an
ing been obli-
ich they had,
Roch, which
ards the wall,
Intendant's
t. Lawrence,
mall distance
larch of near-
little injury,
nk, from the
vy fire, they
jarrier, which
telots.* This
n, on the St.

his topogrr>|)hi» al

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND <%UEPEC. 315

Lawrence, a few hundred yards from the passage
up Mountain street ; passing down that street, and
turning to the left or north, we come to that of the
Matelots.^ This street runs in a straight direction
for some way, aiid then turns suddenly, by a very
narrow path, only twelve feet wide, and cut out of
the rock, around that angle of the precipice, and
of the grand battery, which looks down the bay of
Quebec; it then proceeds west without turning.
At the time of the attack, this passage, around the
foot of the precipice, was exceedingly narrow, and
much obstructed by cakes of ice. Coming from
the suburb of St. Roch, tlie first barrier occurred,
before arriving at the angle of the street, and of the
precipice ; the second after passing it. Arnold be-
ing severely wounded, in the approach to the first
barrier, it was stormed and carried, by Captain
Morgan of the Virginia riflemen, although it was
defended by two twelve pounders, loaded with
grape shot; one of these pieces was discharged,
but killed only a single man, and before the second
was fired, the barrier was passed by scaling ladders,
and its defenders fled. It was still dark — a violent
snow storm prevailed, and Morgan and the other
officers, being ignorant of the streets and their de-
fences, did not attempt the other barrier till the
day dawned. They then turned the angle of the

♦ Or sailors— I know not whether the name was derived from
the circumstance, that a sailor once fell over the precipice into
this place, " without loss of life, or even serious injury."

Private Commvniration-— 1 B24.

316 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC

'* 1,1

street, which brought them in front of the St. Law-
rence, and of the next barrier, which last was en-
tirely invisible till they had made this turn, when
they were instantly exposed to a tremendous fire
of musketry from the barrier, and from he houses
on both sides of the street ; a few of the bravest
mounted the barrier with ladders, but saw on the
other side, double rows of soldiers, with their guns
fixed on the ground, and presenting nothing but
points of bayonets to receive them, should they leap
to the ground. Their retreat was in the meantime
cut off, by a party of two hundred men, who, with
several field pieces, issued from the palace gate, in
their rear, and thus they were completely surround-
ed—the unconquered barrier was in front — the city
wall and precipice on one side, and the St. Law-
rence and St. Charles on the other.

It was a most darin;; attack.

I passed several times through the street of the
Matelots, and wonder that any of the party should
have escaped death.

We can now understand how the party of Mont-
gomery and that of Arnold would, if successful, have
co-operated. At the time of their repulse, they
were making directly towards one another, and,
but for that event, would have met in Mountain
street, and probably have attempted the Prescot
gate in concert ; or possibly, being in possession of
the lower town, they might have assailed the palace
gate which Arnold had passed, after leaving the

QUEBEC.

ftheSt. Law-
li last was en-
^is turn, when
emendous fire
om he houses
[>f the bravest
»ut saw on the
rith their guns
g nothing but
lould they leap
the meantime
len, who, with
palace gate, in
itely surround-
front — the city
I the St. Law-

c street of the
e party should

party of Mont-
iccessful, have

repulse, they

another, and,
in Mountain

1 the Prescot
) possession of

led the palace
ir leaving the

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 317

suburb of St. Roch. At present, either of these
attempts would appear preposterous, and it would
seem that they could scarcely have proved success-
ful then, unless the enemy had been taken by sur-
prise. Judge Marshall's interesting account* of
this assault will be perfectly intelligible, if it
be remembered that the scenes of both tra-
gedies are in the lower town, and the catastro-
phies of both )n front of the precipice, bordering
on the St Lawrence. Montgomery fell on the ex-
treme left, as represented in the vignette — the re-
pulse of Arnold^s division was on the extreme right,
and none of either party entered the upper town,
till Arnold's troops, having fought for three hours,
TMally surrendered, after they were surrounded,
11 hope of escape was at an end. Rare-
\j lias more personal bravery been displayed, than
in this transaction.

CASTLE OF ST. LOUIS AND THE LATE DUKE 0¥

RICHMOND.

The situation, and dimensions of this building,
have been already mentioned, (page 212.) On its
site, and on the contiguous ground, the French
had a fortress, called St. Louis; it covered four
acres, and formed nearly a parallelogram. The

* Life of Washiugton, vol. ii. p. 333.

)

1) ^

■

318 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND (QUEBEC.

present castle is a part of the curtain, connecting
two of the bastions of the fort, or, at least, it is in
the same place, for, I am not certain that it has not
been rebuilt, since the destruction of the ancient
fortress.

This castle had been suffered to go to decay, but,
in 1808, seven thousand pounds were voted for its
repair and embellishment, and an additional sum at
a subsequent period. Sir James Graig first occu-
pied it, after this resuscitation.

The entire establishment forms a square, of which
the present castle is the front, and the other parts
are occupied by public offices, ball rooms, &c. and
there are stables, a guard-house, and a riding room,
besides extensive gardens.'^

Without introduction, we went to the castle of St.
Louis, and, as strangers, preferred our request to
see the interior. The sentinel, and the servants,
gave us a ready admission. We were civilly con-
ducted through its various apartments. They arc
numerous, but generally plain ; some are large and
handsome, but they are inferior, in elegance, to the
rooms in many private houses. The furniture, with
some exceptions, is far from being splendid. Some
articles are rich, but many are hardly worthy of the
distinguished place which they occupy.

Among the curiosities of the place, is a famous
round table, or rather half of a round table, with a
circular place cut in the middle. This, it seems, is

* Bouehette.

-f

> <^UEBEC.

in, connecting
t least, it is in
that it has not
)r the ancient

► to decay, but,
re voted for its
ditional sum at
•aig first occu-

|uare, of which
he other parts
■ooms, &c. and
a riding room,

he castle of St.
)ur request to
the servants,
re civilly con-
its. They are
I are large and
legance, to the
furniture, with
lendid. Some
)' worthy of the

e, is a famous
d table, with a
tiis, it seems, h

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND ClUEBEC. 319

occupied by the host, when he drinks wine with
his friends, who arc arranged around himt That
there may be no impediment to conviviality, not
even the usual trouble of circulating the bottle,
there is an ingenious machine of brass, shaped a
little like a sextant, which can, at pleasnre, be at-
tached to the table, or removed ; the centre em-
braces a pivot, on which it moves, and the periphery
of the circle, sustains? the bottK^; the mflchine re-
volves in the plane of a horizontal circle, in other
words, on the circular table ; this is effected merely
by touching a spring ; the contrivance is certainly
as important as it is original.

1 am not certain, however, to whom the honor of
the invention belongs, for we were assured in the
castle, that the furniture descends, not as public,
but as private property, and is paid for by each
successive governor. This, (if correctly stated,)
does not correspond with the usual munificence and
dignity of the British government.

The duke of Richmond, the late Governor-Gene-
ral of the Canadas, is stated not to have been rich ;
indeed, in Canada, the remark is made on all hands,
that he was poor. Still, we were repeatedly assur-
ed, that the duke^s plate, which was lately sent
back to England, was insured at forty thousand
pounds, a fortune in itself, for a private man.

We were introduced into the duke's private study

and library ; the latter was not extensive, although

he books were good ; we saw also his bed room

1 i

\l'

k «/

330 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD ANA ^UEBEO.

and bed, and, in short, all the apartments of the
family.

We asked for some personal relic of the duke,
and they presented to us a thermometrical register,
kept by him, during the first seven months of the
present year, and the first half of August, ending
with the time, (I presume,) when he set forward on
the journey, during which he died. The register
is said to be in his own hand writing. As it is not
often that we obtain a document respecting Cana-
dian temperature, and, as this is interesting, on ac-
count of its origin, 1 will present an abstract of it.
in the form of results.

Average tempera-

A. D.
1819.

Jan. 17*>
Feb. 25
March 25
April 43
May 56
June 66
July 75
Aug.
(first 15
days) 78

ture at
noon.

ab.

((

((
((

Coldest day
at noon.

Jan. 14 6°bel.O
Feb. 24 13 ab.
March 6 2"
April 8 32
May 25 36
June 1 52
July 28 65

Hottest day
at noon.

Jan. 23 4l°ab.O

Feb. 9 42 "

March 21 37 "

April 29 64 "

May 4 72

June 6 90

July 23 84

Aug. 8

The average of S^'".*®"' ) ,^ .
ih^ihrZ < spring, > months, 18

((

Aug. 7
and 10 86

22°above
55 "
summer, J ^73 "

In January, the thermometer, at noon, on the 5th,
8th , and 29th, was 4« below 0.

1 have thrown away fractions of a degree.

The thermometers, with which the observations
were made, still hung in the room.

.^.w

9 ^UBBEG.

tments of the

: of the duke,
trical register,
months of the
mgust, ending
set forward on
The register
r. As it is not
ipecting Cana-
resting, on ac-
abstract of it.

Hottest day
at nooD.

n. 23 4l°ab.O

5b. 9 42 "

arch 21 37 "

)ril 29 64 "

ly 4 72

ne 6 90

y 23 84

((

10 86

22°above
55 "
73 "

on, on the 5th,

degree.

e observations

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND ^CEBEC. 321

It is well known that the duke died of hydropho-
bia ; and, it seems impossible to obtain in Canada,
nay, even in Quebec, and in the palace itself, a cor-
rect account of the circumstances that attended the
calamity. As the subject, being of very recent oc-
currence, has been much spoken of in our presence,
and in all circles, I trust it will not be indelicate
with respect to the friends of the deceased, or to
the people recently under his gove u' .^nt, if I pro-
ceed to repeat some of the statements which we
have heard.

The person who shewed us the castb, and who,
as we were informed, belonged to the duke's house-
hold, gave us the following account. It seems that
the duke had a little dog, to which he was immode-
rately attached ; the dog's name was Blucher, and
Blucher, we were told, was carressed with such
fondness, that he slept with his masicr, and was
affectionately addressed, by the appellation of" my
dear Blucher."

This idolized animal was bitten in the neck by
another dog, afterwards ascertained to be mad—
the rencounter took place in the court-yard of the
palace, and the duke, in whose presence it occur-
red, full of compassion for his poor dog, caught him
up in his arms, and applied his own lips to the part
bitten; others, as well as this man, have informed
us, that it was thus the duke imbibed the poison,
some say through a cut in his lip, made by his ra-
zor, or through an accidental crack. The duke

If i

■*Mf^'

\ v^

*^. i

S22 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFO&D AND QUEBEC.

continued to sleep with the dog,|which had not then,
however, exhibited signs of madness.

There are other persons, and, among them, some
high!)' respectable men, attached to the army, who
deny the above, and say that the duke was bitten
by a rabid fox, on board the steam-boat; the fox
and dog, it is said, were quarrelling, and the duke
interfered, to part them. Others assert, that the
duke put his hand into the cage, where the fox was
confined ; and all who impute the event to the fox,
declare that the hurt, which was on a tinger, was
so extremely slight, as not to be noticed at the time,
■or thought of afterwards, till the hydrophobia came
•n.

At the mansion house in Montreal, where the
duke always lodged, when in that city, we were
assured by a respectable person in the house, that
the duke certainly got his poison from his own dog;
that the story was told him by the servants of the
duke, when they returned with the dead body ; and,
what is more, that he saw the letter which the duke
wrote to his own daughter, the lady Mary, after his
symptoms had manifested themselves, and when he
was in immediate expectation of death. In this
letter, the duke reminded his daughter of the inci-
dent which was related to us at the palace. Which
ever story is true, it would appear that the duke
came by his death in consequence of his attach-

had not then,

ig them, some
he army, who
:e was bitten
oat ; the fox
md the duke
Bert, that the
e the fox was
nt to the fox,
81 finger, was
d at the time,
^phobia came

1, where the
ity, we were
e house, that
his own dog;
rvants of the
Ibody; and,
lich th« duke
ary, after his
and when he
ith. In this
r of the inci-
ice. Which
lat the duke
his attach-

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 323

ment to his dog, and, surely never was a valuable
life more unhappily sacrificed.*

The duke was up the country, near the Ottawa
river, when the fatal symptoms appeared, but he
persevered in his expedition — travelled thirty miles
on foot, the day before he died — concealed his com-
plaint, and opposed it as long as possible — wrote
his final farewell to the lady Mary, and the other
children, in a long letter, which contained particu-
lar directions as to the disposition of the family —
and met death, we must say, at least, like a soldier,
for a soldier he had been the greater part of his
life.

His complaint manifested itself, in the first in-
stance, by an uneasiness at being upon the water,
in the tour which he was taking into the interior,
and they were obliged to land him. A glass of wine,
presented to him, produced his spasms, although it is
saidi that, by covering his eyes with one hand, and
holding the glass with the other, he succeeded in
swallowing the wine; but afterwardsi he could
bear no liquids, and even the lather used in shaving,
distressed him.

In the intervals of his spasms, he was wonderful-
ly cool and collected — gave every necessary order

* I have never had it in my power to iee the official accounts
of the duke*8 death, as published in England. I am told thef dif-
fer in aome measure, from the preceding statements, but I cannot
tell in what particulars. AH I can sat, is, that I give the reports
as I heard them.

^^wfc. ' «<» " iiwt » »» » .«^* w*^, .>iii% '^

,^— ^,.*-.

-4!S««^

r: i

rill

324 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC.

to his servants, and to the officers of his suite — op-
posed the sending for a physician, from Montreal,
because, he said, the distance from it to Richmond,
where he died, being eighty miles, he should be a
dead man, before the physician could arrive, and
seemed to contemplate the dreadful fate before him,
with the heroism^ at least, of a martyr.

In his turns of delirium, instead of barking and
raving, as such patients are said usually to do, he
employed himself in arranging his imaginary troops,
forming a line of battle, (for he had been present at
many battles, and, last of all, at Waterloo,* itself,)
and gave particular commands to a captain in the
navy, who was not present, but whom he called by
name, foj/f re— and the command was often, and ve-
hemently repeated. In a soliloquy, overheard but
a few minutes before his death, he said, " Charles
Lenox, duke of Richmond! — die like a man! —
Shall it be said, that Richmond wab afraid to meet
death — no, never !"

I know not what were his grace's views on top-
ics, more important at such a crisis, than what our
fellow men will think of us ; but, there was a degree
of grandeur, of the heroic kind, in finding a military
nobleman, cool and forecasting, in contemplation of
one of the most awful of all deaths, and, even in his

* I was informed by a British officer, that the duke was not ac-
tually itt the bloody field, but somewhere in the immediate vicio-
ity. »

m^'

-K.

'^L

QUEBEC.

lis suite — op-
)m Montreal,
:o Richmond,
Q should be a
d arrive, and
;e before him,
r.

■ barking and
illy to do, he
^i nary troops,
ien present at
irloo,* itself,)
:aptain in the
1 he called by
often, and ve-
)verheard but
aid, " Charles
ke a man! —
fraid to meet

i^iews on top-
han what our
was a degree
ing a military
templation of
d, even in his

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND qiJEnEC. 325

moments of delirium, like king Lear, raving in a
style of sublimity.

We were informed, that, even in death, he did
not forget Blucho.r, but ordered that he should be
caged, and the event awaited. The dog was carried
away with the fnmily, when they sailed for Eng-
land, although he had previously begun to snap and
fly at people.

The duke appears to be remembered with af-
fection ; he was regarded as a very warm friend
to Canada, and all here, believe that he had its in-
terests much at heart, and was actively engaged in
promoting them.

His family, consisting principally of daughters,
young and unmarried, with very slender resources,
and in a foreign land, received the appaling news at
the castle of St. Louis, and soon the sad tidings
were followed by the breathless body.

One daughter is married to Sir Peregrine Mait-
land, Governor of Upper Canada, and the lady Ma-
ry, the eldest of the remaining daughters, is spoken
of (although without any intended disparagement to
the other children,) in the highest terms. We saw
fire screens, prettily inscribed with verses, and orna-
mented by her hand ; and the person who attended
us, gave each of us a walking stick, cut by the

duke was not tic-
mmediate vicin-

* I was informed by a British officer, that the duke was not ac-
tually in the bloody field, but somewhere in the immediate Ticini-

ity.

28*

-*^,

.f*-- ,---■•

-■— X — tt' L ^-

■■#.'»e^

'.' I

326 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC.

duke's own hand, in his last excursion. There was
a large bundle of them done up by strings, and it
seems it was the duke's custom, when he saw a
stick that pleated him, to stop and cut it.

Sir Peregrine Maitland, and his lady and family,
lodged in the same house with us, at Montreal, and
appeared plain, unassuming people. While there,
they received the calls of the principal military and
civil officers, and of the most distinguished private
individuals ; among the rest, came the veteran sol-
dier of Wolfe, dressed in his scarlet uniform, and in
the fashion of other days.

Before leaving the palace, v/e wrote, by request,
our names and residence ; a requisition frequently
made in similar places in Europe.

From the gallery, in front of the castle of St.
Louis, we had a most magnificent view of the river,
and of the surrounding country, while the lower town
lay directly at our feet, but was rather a blemish,
than a beauty, in the prospect.

The castle is, at its foundation, more than two
hundred feet higher than the river, and in summer,
must be a most charming cool spot, but in winter, a
very bleak one.

The duchess of Richmond is in England, and has
never been in America.

•

-wr^-—-"' --

5i;i.

QUEBEC.

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 327

There was
ings, and it
n he saw a
it.

r and family,
[ontreal, and
While there,
military and
shed private
veteran sol-
iform, and in

i, by request,
n frequently

:astle of Stt

of the river,

B lower town

r a blemish^

re than two
in summer,
in winter, a

ind, and has

GENERAL REMARKS ON QUEBEC

A stranger's residence of a few days, in a foreign
city, is hardly sufficient to give him any thing more
than general views. Such views, accurately sketch-
ed, are, however useful, although forming but an
outline.

Quebec, at least for an American city, is certain-
ly a very peculiar place.

A military town — containing about twenty thou-
sand inhabitants — most compactly aud permanently
built — stone its sole material — environed, as to its
most important parts, by walls and [rates — -^nd de-
fended by numerous heavy cannon — garrisoned hy
troops, having the arms, the costume, the mui?c,
the discipline of Europe — foreign in langi cj^; , fea-
tures, and origin, from most of those Vrhom they
are sent to defend — founded upon a rock, and,
in its highest parts, overlooking a great extent
of country — between three and four hundred miles
from the ocean — in the midst of a great continent —
and yet displaying fleets of foreign merchantmen,
in its fine capacious bay — and shewing all the bustle
of a crowded sea-port — its streets narrow — populous
and winding up and down alni>is* mountainous de-
clivities — situated in the latitude of the finest parts
of Europe — exhibiting ii) iU environs, ^he beauty of
an European capital — ^r d yet, in winter, smarting
with the cold of Siberia — governed by a people, of

328 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORH AND (QUEBEC.

1 |F

■ I I *

different language and habits, from the mass of the
population — opposed in religion, and yet leaving
that population without taxes, and in the full enjoy-
ment of every privilege, civil and religious ; such
are some of the most prominent features, which
strike a stranger in the city of Quebec.

As to its public buildings, besides the Gastle of
St. Louis, which has been mentioned, there is the
Hotel Dieu, the Convent of the Ursulines, the Mo-
nastery of the Jesuits, now used for barracks, the
Cathedrals, Catholic and Protestant, the Scotch
Church, the lower town Church, the Court House,
the Seminary, the new Jail, and the artillery bar-
racks : there are also a Place D'Armes, a Parade,
and an Esplanade.*

The Court House is a modern stone building,
one hundred and thirty-six feet by forty-four, with
a handsome and regular front.

The Protestant Cathedral is seen in the vignette,
being farther to the left than any building that has a
steeple. This is the handsomest modern building
in the city ; it is of stone, and is one hundred and
thirty-six feet long by seventy -five broad ;f it stands
on ground nearly as high as any in the place, and is
seen at a great distance.

* Bouchette.

t AUtbedimaDBionsof the public buildingi ar« tftken on the
authority of Colonel fiouchette.

^' J.

QUEBEC.

i mass ef the
yet leaving
le full enjoy-
igious i such
tures, which

le Gastle of
there is the
nes, the Mo-
larracks, the
the Scotch
ourt House,
artillery bar-
es, a Parade,

ne building,
ty-four, with

the vignette,
ng that has a
em building
liundred and
d ;t it stands
place, and is

• tikM on the

TOUR BETWEEN HAllTFORD AND QUEBEC. 329

The Catholic Cathedra], seen on the right of the
vignette, is built of stone ; it is two hundred and
sixteen feet long, and one hundred and eight broad.
It was the first public building that we entered in
Quebec. We found, as usual in such places, priests
in attendance, and people at their devotions. The
building is full of pictures and images, and has a
venerable and ancient appearance. It can contain
four thousand people.

The Seminary was founded in 1663, for ecclesi-
astical instruction only, but is not now confined to
that profession, although, according to Colonel Bou-
chette, its members must be Catholics.

The building is of stone, forming three sides of a
square, two hundred and nineteen fret long, and
one hundred and twenty broad.

The Hotel Dieu was founded in 1637, for the
sick poor of both sexes. It includes the convent,
hospital, church, court-yard, cemetery, and gardens.
The principal building is three hundred and eigh-
ty-three feet long by fifty broad. This establish-
ment, conducted by nuns, is highly commentjcd for
the humanity, comfort, cleanliness, and good ar-
rangement which prevail in it.

The Ursuline Convent is a square, whose side is
one hundred and twelve feet ; was Ibunded in 1639;
is devoted to female education, and is conducted by
nuns.

The Monastery, or College of the Jesuits, now
used for barracks, is three stories high, and forms a

.fc-*--^

<]\

330 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC.

4»

• i

parallelogram of two hundred and twenty-four feet
by two hundred. It was a fine establishment in the
time of the Jesuits, and judging from some of the
apartments which I saw, it contains very comforta-
ble accommodations for officers and troops.

I was particularly struck with the new Jail, which
is a handsome structure of stone, standing on very
elevated ground ; it is one hundred and sixty feet
long by sixty-eight broad, and three stories high :
the cost was over fifteen thousand pounds.

The Bishop's Palace is one hundred and forty-
seven feet by one hundred and eighteen, and stands
in a very commanding situation, near the grand bat-
tery. It is now occupied by the Provincial Parlia-
ment, and for various public offices, and an annuity
is paid to the Catholic Bishop. It is said to be in
a ruinous condition.

The artillery barracks were built by the French
in 1750. They extend five hundred and twenty-
seven feet by forty, and contain accommodations
fol the artillery troops of the garrison work-shops
store-houses, &c. and every varietj • small arms
for twenty thousand men, which are always kept fit
for immediate use, and are fancifully arranged.

Quebec is well paved with large stones, firmly fix-
ed. Most of its streets are narrow ; the principal
ones are thirty-two feet wide, but most of them on-
ly irom twenty-four to twenty-seven. The houses
are of very unequal height, and generally have high
sloping roofs, to enable them to sustain the ice and

^y^-

;UEBEC.

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEHEC. 331

ty-four feet
iment in the
lome of the
ry comforta-
)ops.

1 Jail, which
ling on very
id sixty feet
tories high :
ds.

!d and forty-
1, and stands
le grand bat-
ncial Parlia-
3 an annuity
said to be in

the French
ind twcnty-
nfinnodations
work-shops

small arms
^ays kept fit
ranged.
s, firmly fix-
le principal
)f them on-
The houses

y have high
the ice and

snow. The covering of the roofs with tin, or even
with sheet iron, is by no means general ; most of
them are stiM c >vered with shingles.

Many of the modern houses, especially on the
highest ground, are very handsome, and in the mod-
ern style, and some new ones are in progress.

The market place is, in its largest dimensions,
two hundred and fifty feet by one hundred and six-
ty-five. I saw it on Saturday morning, which is the
best time, and I never wish to see a market better
supplied with meats, fowl, fish, and vegetables, and
every thing was in very good ordf r.

The prices we are told are not high.

There are a great many dogs in Quebec, and
they are not kept merely for parade: they are made
to work, and it is not uncommon in Quebec, to see
dogs harnessed to little carts, and drawing meat,
merchandise, and even wood, up and down the hills ;
they pull with all their little might, and seem pleas-
ed with their employment.

Quebec was founded on the 3d ( July, 1608, by
3amuel de Champlain, Geographer to t'.ie French
King. His commencement was on Cape Diamond,
on the site of an Indian village called Stadacon^.

In 1629 it was taken by the English, but esteem-
ed of so little value, that it was restored in 1632.
It was in the hands of private adventurers or tra-
ding companies till 1663, when it was mad a loyal

332 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC.

government, and became a regular and importani
colony.

In 1690, Sir William Phipps, with a great arma-
ment from Boston, attacked and cannonaded Que-
bec, and landed an army, but was repulsed, with
great loss and disgrace.

In 1712 the attempt was again made, by an Eng-
lish fleet under Sir Hovenden Walker,, who was cast
away in the St. Lawrence, and lost seven of his
largest ships and three thousand mc n, while General
Nicholson, who was coming with an army by the
way of Montreal, was obliged to retreat.

In 1720 Charlevoix visited Canada, and it is in-
teresting to compare his account of the appearance
of Quebec, and of its environs, with its present situ-
ation. It will be found that even then, not only the
outlines of the place were formed, but that they
were filled up to some extent. It at that time con-
tained about seven thousand souls.

He remarks, that it stands on the most navigable
river in the universe, and that there is no other city
in the known world, a hundred and twenty leagues
from the sea, whose harbour is capable of containing
one hundred ships of the line. He observes that, as
Paris was, for a long time, inferior to what Quebec
then was, ho anticipates the time when the latter will
be equal to the former; when " as far as the eye can
reach, (on the St. Lawrence.) nothing will be seen
but towns, villas, and pleasure houses*' — "when the
shores shall discover fine meadows, fruitful hills

d important

great arma-
inaded Que-
pulsed, with

, by an Eng-
who wascast
ieven of his
hile General
irmy by the
at.

and it is in-
) appearance

present situ-
, not only the
)ut that they
lat time con-

ost navigable
10 other city
enty leagues
of containing
rves that, as
vhat Quebec
le latter will
the eye can
will be seen
— "when the
ruilful hill>;

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC!. 333

and fertile fields'* — " when the whole road shall be
faced with magnificent quays, and the port surround-
ed with superb edifices, and when we shall see three
or four hundred ships lying in itloaden with riches/'
All that Charlevoix anticipated a century ago, is
not yet accomplished, but no contemptible pan of
it is already realized. He speaks of the beauty of
the prospect from Cape Diamond, and of the purity
of its air, and says, " you sometimes find a sort of
diamonds on it finer than those of Alencon" — '* I
have seen some of them, (says he,) full as well cut,
as if they had come from the hand of the most ex-
pert workman," and adds, that they have become
very scarce. It is scarcely necessary to say, that
he alludes to the crystals of quartz. He speaks of
the church as being roofed with slate, and he says
that it is the only building in all Canada which has
this advantage, all the others being covered with
shingles. He mentions the Governor's residence in
the fort, and descrioes the front of it as having a
gallery exactly as the Castle of St. Louis standing
in the same place, has now. He mentions the Jes-
uits' buildings, the Hotel Dieu, the Intendanl's Pal-
ace, the Seminary or College, the Bishop's Palace,
and various other buildings -rtnd institutions, which
evince great intelligence and vigor, in the early
French population.

He says the tides rise twenty-five feet at the time
of the equinox. This corresponds very nearly with
the present estimate, which is from twenty-three to

334 TOUR UETWKEN IIAUTFOFIFJ AND QUEBEC .

twenty-four feet, and seventeen or eighteen for com-
mon tides : the greatest depth of water is twenty-
eight fathoms, and he states it generally at twenty-
five. The great rise of tides at Quebec, causes
at present a necessity for very high quays : when
we landed from the steamboat, we ascended on a
plank not less than fifty feet long, and laid from the
boat to U)e wharf so as to form a rather steep in-
clined plane.

Charlevoix commends the society in Quebec;
be says you wi^* find in it " the best company, and
nothing is wanting that can possibly contribute to
form an agreeable society" — that there are " rich
merchants, or such as live as if they were so" and
*^ assemblies full as brilliant as any where." He
states, that ** they play at cards, or go abroad on
parties of pleasure, in the summer time, in calashes
or canoes ; in winter, in sledges upon the snow, or
on skaits upon the ice'' — that *' the Creoles of Cana-
da draw in with their native breath an air of free-
dom, which makes them very agreeable in the com-
merce of life, and no where in the world is the
French language spoken in greater purity^ there being
not the smallest foreign accent in the pronuncia-
tion.

He says, that although there are no rich men,
every body puts on as good a face as possible ; and
that they make good cheer, provided they are able
to be at the expense of fine clothes ; if not, in order
to be able to appear well dressed, they retrench in

[^IJEREC

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND tlUEIJEC. 335

Ben for com-
r is twenty-
y at twenly-
bec, causes
uays : when
cended on a
aid from the
ler steep in-

in Quebec;
tmpany, and
contribute to
re are " rich
ere so" and
vhere." He
;o abroad on
e, in calashes
be snow, or
)les of Cana-
I air of free-
in the com-
world is the
ff there being
3 pronuncia-

o rich men,
ossible ; and
hey are able
not, in order
Y retrench in

the article of the table : that they have fine stature
and complexions, a gay and sprightly behaviour, with
great sweetness and politeness of manners, and that
the least rusticity, either in language or behaviour, is
utterly unknown, even in the remotest and most
distant parts. It is surprising to see how little
change there has been in these respects after the
lapse of a century, and after sixty years of subjec-
tion to a foreign power.

Charlevoix's comparisons between the Canadi-
ans and the New Englanders are amusing: he re-
marks, that in New-England, and the other British
Provinces " there prevails an opulence which they
are utterly at a loss to use ; and in New France a
poverty hid by an air of being in easy circumstan-
ces, which seems not at all studied." "The Eng-
lish planter amasses wealth, and never makes any
superfluous expense ; tfie French inhabitant again
enjoys what he has acquired, and often makes a
parade of what he is not possessed of."

I will finish these citations by one which is in-
deed most remarkable, and accounts for the dread'
ful scents of massacre and invasion, which the Eng-
lish colonies so often and so long experienced from
the French.

" The English Americans, (says Charlevoix,) are
averse to war, because they have a great deal to
lose ; they take no care to manage the Indians, from
a belief that they stand in no need of them. The
French youth, for very diflierent reasons, abominate

\ ■{

■*i

/ ,

' P

336 TOUR BEBWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC.

the thoughts of peace, and live well with the na-
tives, whose esteem they easily gain in time of war,
and their friendship at all times."

With respect to the institutions* of Quebec, most
of which were founded by the French, the valua-
ble statistical account of Canada, by Colonel Bou-
chette, will supply every detail, as to the nunneries,
the hospitals, the college, the churches, catholic and
protestant, the clergy, and every other important
particular, which a stranger would desire to learn.
This work, with its grand topographical map, is
however, I believe, iittse known in the United States,
and is rather too expensive for general ctrculation.f

Besides the peculiar, or at least remarkable fea-
tures, which have been sketched, Quebec is cer-
tainly a very respectable city, and one of those pla-
ces on the American continent, most worthy of the
curiosity of an intelligent stranger. Indeed to have

* After being so full in my notices of scenery and historical
events, in the vicinity of Quebec, more might have been reasona-
bly expected respecting its institutions ; the omission was acci-
dental ; for fear that our fine weather would fail us, we postponed
these topics till the last, and then left Quebec, several days sooner
than we had expected or wished, which deprived ui of the op-
portunity of making other observations.

t Colonel Bouchette is highly loyal, and his zeal (commcndtc-
ble, without doubt in the main) perhaps imparts a degree of as-
perity, to some of his notices of the events of the late warfare,
on the Canadian frontiers, and of the policy of the American
government. These things however do not sfriovisly impair the
value of his great and laborious work, for which be deserves high
commendation.

<IUEBEC.

with the na-
I time of war,

Quebec, most
h, the vaiua-
Colonel Bou-
he nunneries,
, catholic and
ler important
tsire to learn,
lical map, is
Jnited States,
circulation.f
narkable fea-
jebec is cer-
of those pla-
i^orthy of the
deed to have

' and historical
ire been reasona-
ission was acci-
is, we postponed
eral days sooner
i ui of the op-
al (commcndst-
a degree of as-
le late warfare,
the American
visly impair the
e deserves high

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 337

seen Quebec and Montreal, and the intervening and
surrounding country, is, in some degree, a substi-
tute for a visit to Europe. The latitude of Quebec
is 46» 48' 39'' N.

THfc RIVER ST. LAWRENCE.

Montreal, Oct, 12. — The mighty outlet of
the most magnificent collection of inland waters in
the world, the North American lakes — individually,
like seas — collectively, covering the area of an em-
pire ; already enlivened by the sails of commerce,
.nnd recently awed by the thunder of contending
navies ; bordered by thriving villages and settle-
ments, and hereafter to be surrounded by populous
towns and cities, and countries ; associated as this
river is with such realities, and with such anticipa-
tions, it is impossible to approach the St. Lawrence,
with ordinary feelings, or to view it as merely a
river of primary magnitude.

Already, the two great cities of Canada are erec-
ted on its borders; Europe sends her fleets to Quer
bee, and even to Montreal; nearly two hundred
miles of intervening water, are now daily passed be-
tween the cities by steam boats, some of which are
as large in tonnage as Indiainen, or sloops of war.
It is now no very diHicult task, to be wafted on the
St. Lawrence from Lake Ontario to the Ocean, a
distance of nearly seven hundred miles, or from

Niagara, which ditifers little from one thousand, and

29*

'^i

J* •■:<l

'< ».

■1^

f - )

338 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND Q,UEBEC.

the entire range from Lake Superior, is two thou-
sand.

In that part of the St. Lawrence, which, within a
week, we have now twice passed, there are fewer
observations to be made than on manv routes much
less extensive, and on many rivers of much inferior
magnitude. This arises from the great sameness
which prevails along the banks. They appear to be
very generally alluvial; extensively, they are so low
that they seem, in many places, hardly to form an
adequate barrier against the occasional swelling
and overflow of the great river, which they limit;
indeed, it is difficult always to convince one's self,
that they are not, here and there actually lower
than the river; of rocks, till we come within a few
miles of Quebec, there are hardly any to be seen,
and yet it is obvious, that there are rocks hi the
vicinity, because the houses are often constructed
of stone; for many miles from Montreal, on the
way to Quebec, (he banks are little less than damp
meadows, reseiiibling Holland extremely; some-
times the shores recede in natural terraces, and
retirini? platforms, placed, one above another, till
the last visible one forms a high ridge ; at other
times, precipitous banks, cut down as it were by
art, exhibit strata of gravel, and clay and sand — form-
ing distinct, and often variously colored horizontal
layers; the forests are usually removed from the
immediate margin of the river, and the verdure is,
in most places, rich and lively.

i '\

■^

lUEBEC.

is two thou-

ich, within a
re are fewer
routes much
luch inferior
at sameness
appear to be
\y are so low
^ to form an
nal swelling
I they limit;
:e one's self,
tually lower
within a (qw
to be seen,
•ocks hi the
constructed
eal, on the
than damp
ly; some-
rraces, and
nother, till
; at other
t were by
nd — form-
horizontal
i from the
verdure is.

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEnEC. 339

The average width of the river between Montre-
al and Quebec, appears to bo about two miles ; but
it is extremely irregular; sometimes it does not ex-
ceed half a mile, or three fourths of a mile, but this
is true only near Quebec, and at a few other pla-
ces ; at other times^, it becomes two, three, or more
miles wide. I have already mentioned, that in the
Lake of St. Peter, as it is called, a few miles above
the town of Three Rivers, an expansion of the
river takes place, so that, for more than twenty*
miles, its breadth is nine or ten miles.

The current is considerable — probably three
miles an hour, generally, but in some places it has,
apparently double that force, and the river, instead
of flowing, as it commonly does, with an unruffled
surface, becomes perturbed, and hurries along, with
murmurs and eddies, and in a few places, with
foam and breakers.

This is particularly the case at the Richelieu
rapids, fifty miles above Quebec, where the river
is compressed within hHJf a mile, and the navigable
part within much less ; numerous rocks, which ap-
pear to be principally large rolled masses, form,
when the water is low, as it was when we passed, a
terrible reef, and when the river is up, is a danger-
ous concealed enemy. Through these rapids, as was
mentioned on the passage down,) the steam boats
dare not go in the night, and the instance in which
it is said to have been done, was to carry to Quebec

* Colonel Bouchette states the length at twenty^fiYe miles, but
he includes that portion which is full of islands.

340 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFO'i?. AND QUEBEC.

the news of the Duke of Rict; vt^ijd's death. The
speed of the steam boat had, however, been surpas-
sed bj that of the land messenger, who had already
arrived with the gloomy news. At the lower end
of the town of Montreal, the stream, compressed
by the island of St. Helena, is so impetuous, that
the steam boats, which every where else can stem
the current, are here sometimes obliged to anchor,
and procure the aid of oxen ; four yoke were em-
ployed, with a drag rope, to draw the Malsham —
the boat in which we came up to Montreal through
this pass ;* it is however, not half a mile, that the
river is so rapid ; for, after passing this place, steam
carries the boats on again to their moorings, at the
upper end of the town. It requires a very strong
wind to carry vessels with sails against this current.
I saw some vessels here which enjoyed this aid
and for one hour, I could not perceive that they
made any head way.

The population on the river is very considerable,
nearly all the way between the two cities, so that
on both sides, houses or villages are almost con-
stantly in view. There are, however, but two
towns of any magnitude, both of which have been
mentioned — Sorel, at the mouth of the river of the
same name, and which connects Lake Champlain
with the St. Lawrence, forty-five miles below Mon-
treal, and the Trois Rivieres, or Three Rivers,t
* I am informed that this aid is not always necessary.
t The tide ceases near this place.

) QUEBEC,

I death. The
, been surpas-

had alreadj
the lower end
I, compressed
[ipetuous, that
else can stem
;ed to anchor,
oke were em-
le Malsham —
itreal through
mile, that the
s place, steam
torings, at the

a very strong
t this current.
)yed this aid
ive that they

considerable,
cities, so that
almost con-
ver, but two
ih have been
le river of the
e Champlain
5 below Mon-
iree Rivers,t

1 necessary.

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND ((UEiREC. 341

half way between Quebec and Montreal. This
large town derives its whimsical name, from the
fact that the river St. iVJaiirice, which empties here, is
divided atits mouth, by little islands, into three parts,
so that there seem to be three rivers instead of one

Most of the houses on both banks of the St.
Lawrence, as well as in the vicinity of Quebec, are
white, roof and all ; the roofs of houses in Canada,
being frequently protected from fire, as well as
beautified, by a white wash of salt and lime, or of
lime only, which is renewed every year.

There are many villages on the river ; some arc
large and populous, and most of then are furnished
with handsome, and a few with grand churches;
they have from one spi^e to three, and having gen-
erally a brilliant covering of tin, both on the roofs
and spires, they blaze in the sun, and, even at the
distance of miles, dazzle the eyes of the beholder.
Some other public buildings, and the best private
houses on the banks, are occasionally covered in
the same manner. Most of the cottages are only
one story high, and are small ; but large and good
houses, appearing tike the residences of the seign-
eurs and other country gentlemen, are hardly ever
out of sight. The banks of the St. Lawrence, thus
verdant and beautiful from cultivation, and decked
every where with brilliant white houses, and villa-
ges, impress a traveller very pleasantly, although
he finds but little variety in the views. 1 have
omitted to mention, that from the rapids of Riche-

^ <:

l
h

.... I

342 TOUR BETWEEN HAIITFORD AND QUEBEC.

lieu, going down the river, the banks almost imme-
diiitel)' become considerably more elevated.

MB ' t

' 'I

STEAM BOATS.

Although there are roads, said to be good, on
both sides of the St. Lawrence, it was, till within
five or six years, a considerably arduous underta-
king, to travel, back and forward, between the
two cities of Canada. By land, in the slow Cana-
dian calash, it was tedious, and although down the
river from Montreal to Quebec, it was obviously
no difficult thing to go with the current — to return
by water, was always dilUfcult. With head winds
it was of course, impossible to ascmd, nor, with
strong head winds, could they always descend, even
with the aid of the stream.

Quebec and Montreal were therefore a great
way apart, as regarded facility of intercourse j now
they are, in (his respect, very n<!ar, and it is possi-
ble to visit either city from the other, quite com-
fortably and at ease — to transact business, and re-
turn, within the period of four days, although the
distance is one hundred and eighty miles. This
wonderful facility has been imparled by steam
boats, of which no fewer than seven now ply be-
tween Montreal and Quebec. They are named
Maishum, Swiflsure, I,a(!y Sherbrook, Quebec.
Telegraph, Car of Commerce, and Caledonia.

tUEBEC.

ilmost imme-
Dvated.

be good, on
as, till within
jous underta-
between the
e slow Cana-
ugh down the
i^as obviously
nt — to return
h head winds
id, nor, with
descend, even

sfore a great
course ; now
iiU it is possi-
r, quite com-
less, and re-

althou^h the
miles. This
:d by steam

now ply bc-
' are named
Dk, Qu(^bec,
iiedonia*

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 343

The burden* of the Malsham is above six hun-
dred tons, and that of the Lady Sherbrook was sta-
ted to us at about ei^ht hundred ; these are the
largest, and most of the others are considerably
smaller.

They are built with deep holds for freight, which
appears to be much more an object with them than
passengers. Going down in the Swiftsure, of be-
tween three and four hundred tons, we had but
about a dozen cabin passengers, and returning in
the Malsham, we had but four. The accommoda-
tions are good, and the provision for the table am-
ple — for dinner, it is luxurious— there is a lunch at
noon, for dinner is at four oVIock, and tea at eight;
breakfast also at eight o'clock.

The captains of the boats partake in all the good
things ; some of them at least, are convivial with
their guests, and sit long to drink wine, which is
the common practice in Canada.

Some of them appear to be in danger from reple-
tion ; they have but lilUe bodily exercise, and swim-
ming as they do in. a sea of luxury, it is fiot extra-
ordinary that they exhibit the physical offccts of
good living ; they are, however, very obliging and
courteous to their passenger', who are made per-
fectly comfortable on board of their boats.

The machinery is situated deep in the hold, and
appears but little above deck ; this circumstance,
witii the depth of the hull, and the burdeti of freight

* Thnt of the Car of Commerce is stoted at about kix hundred
tons.

• '■».'

H
\

344 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QULiSLC.

which the boats carry, causes them to move much
more steadily than ours do*

On board the Malsham, we could scarcely per-
ceive the jar of the machinery; there being no la-
dies on board, Mr. W and niyself were per-
mitted to appropriate the after cabin, a very con-
venient room, where, with a comfortable fire, we
enjoyed even domestic retirement, and were allow-
ed to occupy our time as we pleased.

We w^re told, that the Lady Sherbrook was the
finest boat in the line, but we were not on board of
hf.T.

The fuel for the boats costs about two dollars
and fifty cents the cord, and they stop twice, once
at Sorel, and once at the Three Rivers, to ♦ake it in.

The passage costs ten dollars down to Quebec,
and Iwelve returning ; we were on board two nights,
and one day, in going down, and two days and three
nij»hts in returning; but a part of two of the nights,
in the last, and one of (hem in the first, was spent in
the dock.

Steam boat business has been very profitable on
this river, but is now said to be otherwise, owing
principally to its being overdone.

DANGERS OF STEAM BOATS.

71ie catastrophes produced by the explosion of
the boilers of steam boats, having now become
rare, the attention of the public, in consequence of

"^it

lUEBtC.

move much

carcely per-
being no la-
If were per-
a very con-
ible fire, we
were allow-

ook was the
on board of

two dollars

twice, once
to^ake it in.

to Quebec,
1 two nights,

s and three
f the nights,
tvas spent in

rofitable on
nse, owing

X plosion of
>w become
equence of

TOUR BETWEEN RARTPORD AND ^VKBRO. 346

several unhappy occurrences, and especially of the
late dreadful one on Lake Champlain, has been
directed to the dangers of fire. The active volca-
no which the steam boat necessarily carries in her
bowels, seems sufficiently appalling, and few per-
sons, when first beginning to travel in this way, can
Vif. down to sleep, without deeply pondering, that a
furious imprisoned enemy is raging within the com-
bustible vehicle that bears them along, and that
both fire and water, usually foes, but here leagued
in unnatural alliance, may conspire for their de-
struction. Rarel}', however, does it appear to have
occurred to the traveller, that the most serious dan-
ger (as the thing is actually managed,) arises from
just that negligence, and presumption and apathy,
which destroy so many buildings, so much proper-
ty, and so many lives on shore.

I am sorry to say that, in the boats on these
northern waters, there is not that degree of care and
anxious vigilance which the case certainly demands,
where so much property and so many lives are at
stake. The Phoenix, as I have before observed,
wab, without doubt, destroyed by a candle ; still,
candles are negligently left on board of most of
the boats in the northern waters ; fires and candles are
not adequately watched on the St. Lawrence, and
we have seen in one of the Canadian boats, a fire
made in an open stove, standing without a chimney,
on the naked deck, while the coals were every mo-
ment blowing against pine ip&rs, and falling on the

346 TOUR BETWEEN UARTFUKD AND (QUEBEC.

deck, which was made of dry pine and covered
with pitch. We were also exposed to danger from
a very unexpected

INCIDENT.

On our passage up the river, in a northeasterly
storm, juiit as we were entering the Richelieu rap-
ids, where we needed all our power to stem the
current, and any disaster would be peculiarly em-
barrassing, we were pressing on, not only with pow-
erful steam, but with a strong and fair wind, which
strained every thread of our large square sail, the
only one which we carried. Our mast, apparently
about fifty feet high, and of proportionate diameter,
was, it seems, only feebly braced from the bow, al-
though perhaps sufficiently in the other direction.

The Captain, having been up the preceding night,
was asleep below : I was on deck, and observed
that our mast, with its feeble shrouds, was strained
to the utmost, and felt some anxiety lest it should
fail. Going below, I was scarcely seated, before a
tfrashand an outcry brought me again on deck.

The wind, it appears, suddenly flirted around,
and a violent squall from an angry cloud, instantly
threw the sail all aback upon the mast; there being
no adequate stays O" braces to sustain tlie solitary
pine, it snapped, like a pipe's stem ; the two chimnies
were a few yards behind ; the heavy spar which sup-
ported the sail at top, falling violently across one of
the chimnies, was broken quite in two; the mast,

J' i

) <iUEB£C.

) and covered
danger from

northeasterly
lichelieu rap-
r to stem the
)eculiarly em-
nly with pow-
r wind, which
[uare sail, the
St, apparently
late diameter^
1 the bow, al-
r direction,
needing night,
nd observed
was strained
est it should
ted, before a
)n deck,
rted around,
>ud, instantly
there beinc
the solitary
vvochinjiiies
ir which sup-
icross one of
'» the mast,

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 347

also, in its fall broke the horizontal iron rods, which
crossed each other and were fastened to some high
frame work, to sustain the chimnies ; the sail fell
over the mouths of both chimnies, and shut them
up completely, and from the top of one of them, sus-
tained by the cords which fastened them to the sail,
hung the two broken pieces of the yard, probably
forty feet in length.

The Captain could not be immediately found :
the Canadian seamen who managed the boat, vocif-
erated most furiously in French, but seemed utterly
confounded, and without resource, and some feeble
attempts which they made to disengage the sail
from the chimnies, only pulled it more entirely over
them. In the mean time, the wi.id, which continu-
ed to blow violently, jerked the sail and its broken
spars with so much force, that there was much dan-
ger that the chimnies would go by the board ; in
which case, our furnaces being in full action below,
would throw out their flame immediately upon the
deck, and upon tho tierces of gin, by which it was
coverfnl even close to the chimnies. There ap-
peared to be nearly cnio hundred of thf?se tierces,
and the explosion of ^ny one oftbem, which would

probably occur if struck by the fire, would involve
us in sheets of flame; and should we even succeed

in extinguishing the fire, our boat without either

steam or sail, would be complcialv unmanageable,

and be liable to be wrecked at the foot of the rap-

ids.

» f

I I

> ii

548 TOUR BETWEEN HAftTFORD AND QUEBEC^

In this moment of anxiety, (while a poor Scotch
emigrant, whose all was on board, was weeping and
wringing his hands, and exclaiming that we should
all be lost,) the Captain arrived on deck. The
wind worried the sail across the top of one of the
chimnies, which was cut into points like a picket
fence, so that the canvass was soon completely
perforated, and the chimney stood up through it,
like a head in a pillory. The other chimney was
so battered by the fall of the yard, that it could
not pierce the sail, especially as it was guarded at
that part by a strong »-ope, and every effort to dis-
engage it, failed'. It was easy to foresee what must
follow: the sail, which being wet with rain, for
sometime .resisted the heat, now became so dried,
that it took fire and blazed. The Captain sent up
one of the sailors to cut it away, and the man with
sufficient hardihood, crawled up and worked where
it was on fire all around him. At length by burn-
ing, it fell from the chimney, and we were extrica-
ted from our unpleasant situation. If, however, the
sail, the fuel on deck, and every part of the boat
bad been dry, and especially had the accident oc-
curred in the nif'ht. the consequences might have
been very painful. But there was an eye superior
to human vigilaiice, which watched over our safety.

imiT^ediately after this accident, we had a good
proof of the hivi<uier in which science and art can
sometimes triumph over the obstacles of nature.
We entered the rapids of Richelieu, not only with

I) ^

i&i ■ r

QUEBEC^

poor Scotch
weeping and
at we should
deck. The
f one of the
like a picket
n completely
p through it,
chimney was
hat it could
IS guarded at
effort to dis-
ee what must
^ith rain, for
me so dried,
ptain sent up
the man with
orked where
gth by burn-
irere extrica-
lowever, the
t of the boat
ccident oc-
might have
eye superior
r our saff'ty.
had a good
and art can
s of nature,
t onlv with

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 349

an o-^posing current of great strength, but with a
strong head wind; but still, by the force of steam
alone, we fought our way through, and indeed the
same wind continued through the remainder of our
passage.

A NIGHT SCENE ON THE ST. LAWRENCE. ^

The long twilight of this climate, which, (as ob-
served at Montreal,) in a degree compensates for
the shortness of the days, was exhausted ; the cot-
tages and villages on shore cast their evening light
on the river; the waning moon, reduced to less
than half her full size, had just risen over our stern,
and cast a feeble radiance on the flood and the
shores ; the stars, unobscured by a single cloud,
vi^ere bright as gems in the azure vault ; the galaxy
was delicately traced athwart the sky— all was still-
ness except the dashina; of the water wheels, the
cry of the steersman, and the occasional song of the
Canadian boatmen ; when the aurora borealis ap-
peared, under circumstances which 1 never before
witnessed.

Not only was there a mild glow in the lower
part of the northern portion of the sky, similar to
that seen through a transparency, but there were
shoots of light darting upward like very feeble
flames, now elongating, n jw receding, apd chang-
ing their places.

30*

'; 4

,^'

350 TOUR BETWEEN UARTFOriD AND 'QUEBEC.

if:

^y^ k

After being a little while below, I was delighted,
on returning, to see a zone of light passing through
the zenith, extending across the entire heavens^ in-
tersecting the milky way very obliquely, greatly
surpassing it in brightness, and forming a beautiful
glowing belt.

At this moment our two chimneys emitted vol-
umes of smoke, succeeded by flame, and a long
stream of brilliant sparks, carried far astern by the
wind, illuminated the deck and the water.

The Lady Sherbrooke going down the river,
glowing with lamps, and streaming with fire, now
moved majestically by us, and seemed a floating
and illuminated castle. Loud vociferations of nau-
tical French, from both boats, were soon lost in the
rapidly increasing distance ; while the lovely belt in
the heavens, beginning to break, and hanging here
and there in pale patches of light, finally vanished,
and resigned the sky to the moon and the stars.

jYole. — July 31st, 18-20. 'I'lie papTs have just informed us o(
ihe death of the celebrated Bolnnist, Frederick Pursh. He
died at Montreal on the 1 1th iiist. ailcr a lingering illness.
" When the efforls nnd purposes of a man who has, by u.eful or
f^plendid labours, atlracteil the attention of the world, are cat off'
by death, and his mortal toil is over, the mind dwelU with an in-
creased interest on circumstances, which might not otherwise have
attracted our attention. Tliis is my apology for the following note.

At the town of Sorel, when we wore returning to Montreal in
the steam boat, Mr. Pursh came on board, and was with us the
remainder of the passagK. His scientific labours are well known,
and the public have pronounced their decided approbation of his
beautiful work, the American Flors Published in London in

1/ H

•QUEBEC.

vas delighted,
ssing through
e heavens t in-
juely, greatly
[ig a beautiful

emitted vol-
>, and a long
astern by the
ter.

vn the river,

ith fire, now

led a floating

itions of nau-

•on lost in the

lovely belt in

hanging here

lly vanished,

the stars.

st informed us o(
CK PunsH. He
g; illness.
fias, by u.eful or
irorld, are cat off
rells wilh an in-
t otherwise have
c following note.
: to Montreal in
was with us the
are well known,
>probalion of his
I in LolJtlon in

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND <IUEBEC. 351

MONTREAL.

St, Johns, Oct. lAthf 1810. — On leaving the city,
this morning, we passed again to Longueil, but not
in so frail a bark as before. We were conveyed in
a horse boat, worked by ten horses, and which,
when we entered, had just discharged sixteen carts

1814. Mr. Pursh expressed himself very warmly on the subject
of the liberal aid which he received in Europe from scientific
men, in the use of their libraries and their herbariums, and
in the tender of their private advice and information ; he men-
tioned, particularly, his obligations to Sir Joseph Banks and
President Smith. He informed me, that he contemplated An-
other (our to Europe for the purpose of publishing his Flora of
Canada, upon which he had been already several years occupied,
and expected to be still occupied for several years more. These
researches led him much among the savage nations of the North
west, and around the great lakes. He went first among them isi
company with the exploring and trading parties of the North
West Company, but fearing to be involved in the consequences
of their quarrels, ho abandoned their protection, and threw him-
self, alone and unprotected, upon the generosity of the aborigines.
lie pursued his toilfome rese;irches, mouth after month, travel-
ling on foot, relying often on the Indians for support, and, of
course experiencing frequently the hunger, exposure, and penis
of savage life. But such was the etithusiasm of his mind, and his
complete devotion to the ruling passion^ tliat he thought little of
msirching day after day, often with a pack weighing sixty pounds
on his shoulders, through forests and swamps, and over rocks and
mountains, prwvided he could discovers new plant; gre:it numbers
of such he assured me he had found, and that he intended to pub-
lish the drawings and descriptions of them in his Canadian Flora.
FVoni the Indians, he said, he experienced nothing but kindness,
and he often derived from them important assistance ; he thought
that had they been treated witli uniformju«/ice and humanity by

e returned the same treatment .

whites

lys ,

352 TOUR BEtVVEEN HARTPORD AND qUEBfiC.

and calashes, besides people and cattle, other thaa
thos? belonging to these vehicles. We crossed
lower down, and in deeper watef", than we had pass-
ed in the canoe.

The view of the town when we were receding,
as well as when we were advancing, was ver^
fine. It strelches about two miles along the St.
Lawrence, and it scarcely equals half a mile in
breadth. The bank of the river is considerably el-
evated, and the ground, although not very uneven,
rises gradually from the water, into a moderate
ridge — then sinks into a hollow, and then rises again,
with more rapidity, till it finishes, less than a mile

He said he much preferred their protection to that of the wan*
dering whites, who, unrestrained by almost any human law,
prowl through those immense forests in quest of furs and game.
Possibly (without however, intending any thing disrespectful by
the remark,) some mutual sympathies might have been excited,
by the fact that Mr. Pursh was himself a Tartar, born and edu-
cated in Siberia, near Toboltski ; and indeed, he possessed a
physiognomy and manner different from that of Europeans, and
highly characteristic of his country.

His conversation was full oi fire, point and energy ; and al-
though not polished, he was good humoured, frank, and generous .
He complained that he could not endure the habits of civilized
life, and that his health began to be impaired as soon as he be*
came quiet, and was comfortably fed and lodged. He said he
must soon '^^ be off again" into the wilderness. His health was then
declining, and unfortunately it was but too apparent, that some
of the nieasmes to which he resorted to sustain it, must eventu-
ua! y postrate his remaining vigour.

It is to be hoped that his utifmis'hed labours will not be lost
and that although incomplete, they may be published ; since, if,
sui&ciently matured, they must add to the stock of knowledge.

k^ \

NO QUEBEC.

cattle, other than
s. We crossed
bian we had pass-

; were receding,
icing, was verj
les along the St.
i half a mile in
considerably el-
lot very uneven,
into a moderate
1 then rises again,
less than a mile

n to that of the wan-
)St any human law,
Bt of furs ami game,
ling; disrespectful by
have been excited,
rfar, born and edu-
Ae.ed, he possessed a
: of Europeans, and

id energy ; and al-

frank, and generous .

e habits of civilized

as soon as he be-

edged. He said he

His health was then

apparent, that some
in it, must eventu-

will not be lest
)ublished ; since, if,
k of koowledge.

J#Vl

'HOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND (QUEBEC. 353

and a half from the town, in one of the finest hills
that can be imagined. This hill is called the mdun-
tain of Montreal, and indeed, from it, the town de-
rives its name ; the words originally signified, as is
said, the Royal Mountain. This mountain rises
five hundred and fifty feet above the level of the
river.

It forms a steep and verdant barrier, covered with
shrubbery, and crowned with trees, and is a most
beautiful back ground for the city.

Its form, as it appears f the river, is nearly
that of a bow. We rode up, across the southern
end of it, behind the beautiful seat of the Hon. Mr.
McGillivray. I afterwards ascended it on foot, in
company with an English gentleman, and walked
the length of its ridge. The view is one of the fin-
est that can be seen in any country. Immediately
at our feet the city of Montreal is in full view, with
its dazzling tin covered roofs, and spires, and its
crowded streets ; the noble St. Lawrence, stretch-
ing away to the right and left, is visible, probably for
fifty miles, and, on both sides of it, and for a very
great width, particularly on the south, one of the
most luxuriant champaign countries in the world, is
spread before the observer. The mountains of
Belaeil, Chambly, and a few others, occur upon this
vast plain, but, in general, it is uninterrupted, till it
reaches the territories of the United States, in
which we discern the mountains of Vermont and
New-York.

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33 WIST MAIN STRUT

WltSTIR, NY. MSIO

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354 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC.

In our rear, we saw the Ottawa or Grand river,
and its braaches, which, uniting, and becoming
blended with the St. Lawrence, divide the island of
Montreal from the main.

Nothing is wanting, to render the mountain of
Montreal a charming place for pedestrian excur-
sions, and for rural parties, but a little effort, and
expense in cutting and clearing winding walks, and
in removing a few trees from the principal points of
view, (as they now form a very great obstruction;)
a lodge, or resting place, on the mountain, con-
structed so as to be ornamental, would also be a
desirable addition.

On the front declivity of the mountain, is a beau-
tiful cylinder of lime stone, or gray marble, erected
on a pedestal; the entire height of both appeared
to be about thirty-five feet. It rises from among
the trees, by which it is surrounded, and is a mon-
ument to the memory of Simon IVlcTavish, Esq.
who died about fourteen years since, and was, in
a sense, the founder of the North Western Compa-
ny. Just below, is a handsome mausoleum, of the
same materials, containing his remains; and, still
lower down the mountain, an unfinished edifice of
stone, erected by the same gentleman, which, had
he lived to complete it, would have been one of the
finest in the vicinity of Montreal. It is now fast
bc(:on:ing a ru'n, although it is inclosed and roofed
in, and the windows are built up with masonry.
It would have been a superb house, if finished nr
cording to the original plan.

I-

JEBEC.

rand river,

becoming

le island of

nountain ot
rian excur-
eflfort, and
walks, and
lal points of
)struction ;)
intain, con-
d also be a

I, is a beau-
jle, erected
\i appeared
ronn among
I is a mon>
avish, Esq.
ind was, in
jrn Compa-
eum, of the
i; and, still
}d edifice of
which, had
n one of the
is now fast
I and roofed
h masonry,
finished ar-

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORO AND QUEBEC. 355

GEOLOGY AND MINERALOGY.

The mineralogy and geology of this mountain,
and of the i;»land, I could wish to see thoroughly in-
vestigated, as they appear to be interesting ; the few
facts wh'rh I had it in my power to observe, were
as follows : The plain at the foot of the mountain,
particularly at the race course, is compact, black
lime stone, fetid, and containing organized remains;
its stratification is regular, and its position flat ; it
forms one of the most common building stones in
Montreal. This rock seems to prevail halfway up
the mountain, and is followed, by what appeared
to me, a hard, probably a siliceous slate, intersect-
ed by veins of trap. Higher up still, and on the
northeastern end particularly, is a rock, inclined
at an angle of 45°, which seemed to be a decom-
posed lime stone, of a light gray colour, and friable
texture, at least where it was exposed to the weath-
er.

The very summit of the mountain, is a horn-
blende rock, highly crystalline in its structure, and
containing distinct crystals of boHi hornblende and
nugite. It is a striking example of the parasytical
character of the hornblende and trap rocks, follow-
ing no regular order of succession, but occasionally
forming caps and ridges, on all sorts of rocks and
mountains.

There is found also on the island, within a short
distance of the town, a lime stone, of a smoke gray.

* li

356 TOUft BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC.

highly crystallJDe in its structure, nearly, or quite as
much so as the decidedly primitive marbles ; when
broken, it presents numerous and brilliant crystal-
line plates, and this is, in fact, almost exclusively
its structure.

Still, it contains numerous shells, and other or-
ganized remains, of which the impressions and
forms are very distinct. Shells, and organized re-
mains, in a highly crystallized lime stone! Is it
transition line stone. Just on the verge of becoming
primitive ? I had no time to visit the place whence
it comes, but, in the piles of stone, about to be used
in building, in the town, I observed this cryt^tallized
lime stone (and that in vast blocks, showing the
stratification, and evincing that it was not acciden-
tal) actually united into one piece, with the black
compact kind, like the hone slates, of different
colours, which are often exposed for sale.

In other pieces, I saw fragments of the black
compact kind, mixed with the crystallized; and
some lai^e blocks of the latter were terminated by
a black uneven surface, probably showing the line
of connexion with the black kind.*

1 have not seen enough of the vicinity of Mont-
real, to venture to pronounce, confidently, concern-
ing its geological classification ; it would appear,
however, that it is partly a transition, but princi-

* I thence infer, that they oocur together, in immediate oea-
nexion, and probably the black compact kind will be found to lie
upoD the other.

tUEBEC.

^, or quite as
rbles ; when
liant crystal-
exclusively

nd other or-
ressions and
rganized re-
stone ! Is it
of becoming
lace whence
ut to be used
i cryt^taliized
showing the
not acciden-
th the black
of different
le.

>f the black
lUized; and
iminated by
ring the line

ity of Mont-
ly, concern-
mid appear,
but princi-

immcdiate ooB-
be fouud to lie

Tdm HtTWEEN HARTFOUU AND t^UCnEC. 357

pally a secondary region. I saw no proof that any
part of it is primitive, and cannot but wonder at
the opinion entertained, as I am told, by many per-
sons in Montreal, that the gray crystallized lime
stone is granite. I saw no granite on the island.

MODE OF BUILDING IN MONTREAL.

Montreal has much the appearance of an Euro-
pean town, particularly of a continental one. The
streets are narrow, except some of the new ones ^
the principal ones, are those parallel to the river,
of which those of St. Paul, which is a bustling street
of business, near the river, and Notre Dame street
on higher ground, and mo^c quiet, more genteel,
and better built, are the principal; the latter street
is th rty feet wide, and three fourths of a mile long.
A few of those which intersect the above streets at
right angles, are also considerable. The town has
a crowded active population, and many strangers,
and persons from the country, augment the activity
in its streets.

But the circumstance which assimilates it most
to a continental European town, is its being built
of stone. People from the United States, are apt
to consider Montreal as gloomy, and, I presume it
arises from the fact, of its being built of stone, and
principally in an antique fashion. The former ig
however, in reahtv, a strong ground of preference

fe 'X .

(

;i„

i H

t '

358 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEREC

Ir )

• -If

^1 I

I I

over our cities, built of wood and brick, Stone is
the best material of which houses can be construct-
ed; if properly built, they are not damp in the
least ; they exclude both heat and cold, better than
any other houses ; they will not burn,* except in
part, and scarcely need repair, and they are easily
made beautiful. Indeed, no other material pos-
sesses sufficient dignity for expensive public edifi-
ces; and we were sorry to see even a few private
houses, in the suburbs of Montreal, built of brick,
in the Anglo-American style.

I was, I confess, much gratified at entering, for
the first time, an American city, built of stone. The
inhabitants of Montit'eal possess a very fine building
stone in the gray lime stone already mentioned ; it
is as handsome, when properly dressed, as the cel-
ebrated Portland stone of England, and it is much
superior to it in durability. A number of the mod-
ern houses of Montreal, and of its environs, which
are constructed of this stone, handsomely hewn, are
very beautiful, and would be ornaments to the city
of London, or to Westminster itself.

Many of the houses are constructed of rough
(■tone, coarsely pointed, or daubed with mortar, and
have certainly an unsightly appearance ; others,
here, as well as at Quebec, and elsewhere in Cana-
da, are covered with a rough cement, and look rude-
ly ; it is perfectly easy to make both these kinds of

*' An advantage, which they obviously po«aci> ia commoa witii
trick.

Stone id
construct-
ip in the
etler than
except in
are easily
terial pos-
biic edifi-
w private
t of brick,

ering,

for
one. The
e building
tioncd ; it
IS the eel-
it is much
the mod-
3ns, which
hewn, are
to the city

of rough
lortar, and
e ; others,
c in Cana-
look rude-
e kinds of

;ommoQ witii

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 35ii

houses handsome, as well as durable, as is seen in
particular instances in Canada.

Many of the houses, stores, and ware-houses,
in Montreal, have iron plate doors, and window
shutters, fortified by iron frames ; this is obviously
a precaution against fire, as well as robbery, and
the tin coverings and the roofs of the buildings, are
intended as a protection against the former.

The tin is put on in an oblique direction to the
cornice and ridge ; the nails are covered from view,
and from the weather, by doubling the tin over the
heads of the nails, and the different rows of tin
sheets are made to lap in the manner of shingles.
It is by no means an easy thing, to put on a tin
roof, so as to be both handsome and durable.

Montreal is certainly a fine town of its kind, and
it were much to be wished that the people of the
United States would imitate the Canadians, by con-
structing their houses, wherever practicable, of
f-tone.

ENVIRONS.

The environs of Montreal are beautiful, but, al-
though considerably cultivated and improved, they
are far from being brought to the state of which
they are capable.

A number of handsome villas now make their ap-
pearance around the town, and there are numerous

I ^ i

{

- i

♦. '

360 TOUR UETUEEN llAKTFOUD AND QIJEHEC.

sites, Still unoccupied, which will probably be here-
after crowned with elegant seats. Few places in
the world possess more capabilities of this kind than
Quebec and Montreal; if the latter is less bold than
the former, in its scenery, it possesses much rich-
ness, and delicate beauty, which need nothing but
wealth and taste to display them to advantage ; the
former already exists in Montreal to a great extent,
and there are also very respectable proofs of the
existence and growth of the latter.

RACE COURSE AND RACING.

Near the city of Montreal, there is a race course,
a circuit of about two miles. It happened that we
were at this place at the time of the races, and in a
ride around the environs, we came across the
ground at the time when the horses were about
starting. The subject seemed to excite a good deal
of interest in the community. In the steam boat
on Lake Champlain, Canadians, anticipating the
sports of the ensuing week, were much occupied in
discussing the merits of the different horses, and in
predicting the results*

The same topic was the ruling one at the public
houses, and upon the turf, where we found both the
gentry and the common people of Montreal The
latter were on foot, and the former were either on
horseback, or with elegant equipages, of which this

BHEC.

ly be here-
' places in
} kind than
i bold than
[luch rich-
lothing but
ntage; the
eat extent,
ofs of the

ice course,
ed that we
;, and in a
icross the
'ere about
good deal
team boat
pating the
ccupied in
ses, and in

the public
d both the
eal The
either on
which this

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 361

city affords a few. Their number appears not to
be proportioned to the weahh of the place, for the
obvious reason, that, from the nature of the coun-
try, water conveyance is principally used in travel-
ling. Ladies were present in considerable numbers,
and all were intent, while the judges mounted the
stage — the horses were led forth, and the riders, in
leather breeches, silk party colored jackets, and
jockey caps, mounted, and darted away at the ap-
pointed signal.

Three times they coursed around the appointed
circle, and twice, at least, must a horse come out
ahead of his competitors, before the prize is won.

It was, in the present instance, obtained by a
horse, famous, it seems, on this ground, for distan-
cing all his compeers. His name \s Democrat, and
thus it has grown into a proverb, that Democrat beatb
every thing in Canada.

At Quebec there is also a race course, and races
were held the day that we arrived. The course is
on the venerable plains of Abraham, where we saw
the ground, exhibiting marks o(hu'. .ig been recent-
ly trod. How different a strife from that between
contending armies! Who would not wish to pre-
serve these classical plains from such a degradation.

IMPORTANCE OF MONTREAL.

The point which connects the ocean, and, of
course, Europe, and the rest of the world, with the

31*

f',

*♦

h *

302 TOUR HETWEEN HARTFOUD AND QUEBEC.

countries bordering on the vast lakes of this conti-
nent, and upon the various rivers which empty into
them, cannot be otherwise than important. This is
precisely the situation of Montreal, and its location
certainly evinces great good judgment on the part
of Jaques Cartier, who, in 1635 or 36, first sailed
thus far upon the St. Lawrence, and fixed upon
this place as the site for a town. It was then occu-
pied by an Indian village. The city was begun in
1640, by a few houses, compactly built, and was
originally called Ville Marie. There seems, how-
ever, to have been one error in selecting the place
of the future city. It was meant to be at the head
of navigation ; it is literally so ; and ships* can go
up to the very city, although it is not usual to do it
with vessels of more than an hundred and fifty
tons. Vessels drawing fifteen feet of water can
lie at Market gate, high up in this city ; the general
depth of water in the harbor is from three to four
and a half fathoms. Unfortunately, however, the
rapid of St. Mary, at the extreme end of the town,
or rather, near one of its suburbs, is so powerful an
obstacle, that nothing but a very strong wind will
force a vessel through, when not impelled by any
other power.

Ships are sometimes detamed here for weeks, on-
ly two miles below where they are to deliver their
freight; a canal is contemplated, to enable river
craft to convey freight around the rapid.

*^ It is said even of six hundreil tons.

i -'

i"^'
t,

UEBEC.

this conti-

empty into

ht. This is

its location

on the part

first sailed

fixed upon

then occu-

as begun in

It, and was

eems, how-

ig the place

at the head

ips* can go

Bual to do it

d and fifty

f water can

the general

hree to four

owever, the

)f the town,

powerful an

ig wind will

lied by any

• weeks, on-
leliver their
jnable rirer

TOUR BETWEEV HARTFORD XSTi QUERCC 363

This id the rapid where the steam boats are some-
times obliged to anchor, and procure the aid of oxen.
It would appear (hat the town should have been built
at this place, or a little below, and then the incon-
venience would have been avoided. But as the
buildings do now, in factj extend to this place, it
would be easy to establish a port here, and it will
doubtless be done in time ; it would, however,
greatly forward the object, if a few spirited individ-
uals would begin, by erecting stores and wharves,
and it would be easy to have the steam boats stop
there; easy I mean, as to every thing but the rival
local interests which are usually in such cases array-
ed against projected improvements. There are few
cities in the world, especially of the magnitude and
importance of Montreal, which, situated more than
five hundred and eighty miles from the ocean, can
still enjoy the benefit of a direct ship communica-
tion with it.

Montreal is evidently one of the three great chan-
nels by which the trade of North America will be
principally carried on. It is obvious thnt New-York
and New-Orleans are the other two places, and it
is of little consequence that other cities may engross
a considerable share of trade, or that, by canals and
other internal improvements, smaller rills of com-
merce may be made to flow towards one city or
another. The great natural basins and water
courses, and mountain ranges of this continent, will
istill control the course of trade, and direct its most

•i (

m; r

364 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC

gisrantic currents towards these three towns, one ot
which is already a great and noble city, and the
two olhors are advancing with great rapidity. The
sickly i.liinatfi of New-Orleans will somewhat re-
tard its growlh, but will not prevent it ; Montreal
enjoys a climate extremely favorable to health, but
it is locked up by ice four or five months in the
year. The carriole, however, triumphs over the
ice, and the Canadian, when he can no longer push
or paddle his canoe on the waters of the St. Law-
rence, gaily careers over its frost-bound surface,
and well wrapped in woollen and in furs, defies
the severity of winter.

In 1815, Colonel Bouchette stated the popula-
tion of Montreal at fifteen thousand ; no one now
rates it, including the suburbs, at less than twenty
thonsand, and one intelligent inhabitant gave it as
his opinion, that the population must, at present,
equal twenty-five thousand ; perhaps the middle
number is nearest to the truth.

Montreal has many good, respectable institutions,
most of which are, however, French establishments,
dating their origin under the French dominion,
now sixty years extinct in this country. I must
refer for an account of them, as well as of those at
Quebec, to Colonel Bouchette's work, which ought
to be perused by every person who won id obtain a
competent knowledge of the Canadas. I shall
presently quote from him the dimensions and ex-
tent of some of the most important public institu-
tions of Montreal.

k '

^JLI^itJ^^ . . '*ac

EBEC.

J^ns, one of
y, and the
idity. The
nevrhat re-
Montreal
health, but
ths in the
8 over the
>nger push
St. Law-
id surface,
urs, defies

>e popuia-
o one now
lan twenty
gave it as
it present,
le middle

istitutions,

lishments,

dominion,

I must

f those at

ich ought

' obtain a

1 shall

and ex-

c institu-

roim BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 366

The colleges or seminaries of Quebec, and of
Montreal, are considered as very useful institutions,
and the French is the colloquial tongue in both. —
A gentleman of New-York, who came on with
U8 in the steam boat down Lake Champlain,
brought three boys with him — two of them his own
children, and placed them at the seminary in Mon-
treal. This institution is said to contain two or
three hundred members; both here and at Que-
bec, they are distinguished by a peculiar costume
— a blue surtout, the seams of which are all
ornamented with a white cord, and they are
confined both summer and winter, by a large
sash or belt, doubled around the body, and tied
in a knot. It is of woollen, and of many colors,
and gives them something of a military air. In
winter, this appendage must be useful, (but in sum-
mer, and the Canadian heat is very intense,) it
must be oppressive if not injurious. Among the
youths whom we saw in the strectis, in the academ-
ic uniform, were some who were almost men, and
others who appeared to have hardly escaped from
the nursery. The morals of the boys are said to
be very carefully watched, and the expenses to be
very moderate — two points in which they are cer-
tainly very worthy of imitation.

1 did not go into the college buildings, but their
exterior, which 1 saw, is rude, and the building is
ancient. They have a fine garden and buildings
without the city, besides those that are within.

.iV

r 4

366 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND qUEBCC.

,f-

The nunneries both here and at Quebec, arc
maintained in all their pristine dignity. We were
too much occupied at Quebec, to see the nunneries
even in the Umited manner in which they are shown,
and at Montreal they are open, in a restricted sense,
on Thursday only; this happened, unfortunately,
to be the only day in the week which we did not
spend there. 1 went, however, into the Court yard
of one of the principal nunneries, and saw one of
the aged sisters with her veil lifted up ; she was
busily occupied in feeding chickens.

In the institutions called Hotel Dieu, both at
Quebec and at Montreal, and in other hospitals, the
nuns attend on sick and distressed persons, without
regard to any distinctions, whether of religion or
otherwise ; and their humanity, disinteredness, and
skilful kindness are spoken of in the highest terms
of approbation. An opulent and highly respectable
citizen, of Montreal, formerly from Massachusetts,
said to us, "I shall always think highly of the nuns,
and feel very grateful to them ; for when 1 first
came to Montreal, poor and friendless, and became
sick, I committed myself to the care of the nuns in
one of the hospitals, and there I received, for months,
all the kindness of mothers and of sisters, till 1 was
restored to health."

Perhaps we ought not to censure with too much
severity, the establishment of, here and there, an
institution, where the unhappy, the bereaved and
even the deserted and betrayed, especially when

EBEC.

TOUR BETWERN HARTFORD AND ^UEBEr. 367

lebec, are
We were
nunneries
ire shown,
:ted sense,
^rtunately,
^e did not
Uourt yard
;aw one of
; she was

I, both at
spitals, the
is, without
religion or
dness, and
hest terms
cspectable
sachusetts,
ftlie nuns,
en 1 first
id became
he nuns in
ar months,
till 1 was

too much

there, an

:aved and

illy when

they are persons distinguished by meritorious pe-
culiarities of character or situation, may find at least
a temporary shelter from the gize of an unfeeling
world ; but it certainly is wrong, to make the de-
sertion of the most interestin;^ and important social
relations a religious duty. It is however, a pleasing
alleviation to find that any such persons make some
amends to societ} for their dereliction of its common
duties and interests, by the gratuitous performance
of difficult and painful offices of humanity.

Montreal has a number of good public buildings.
Besides the large Catholic and English Cathedrals,
and other churches, there are, the Court House,
which is one hundred and forty-four feet long, the
Jail and the Banks, and various other public build-
ings which do honour to the town. The Court
House, Jail and English Cathedral particularly are
modern, and very lai^e and handsome buildings,
constructed of the gray limestone, hewn and laid up
with neatness and skill.

The monument to Lord Nelson, in the principal
market place, would grace any of the squares of
London. A figure of his lordship, crowns a high
column* of the gray limestone, which is sustained
by a large pedestal on the sides of which are ex-
hibited in alto relievo, the principal achievements
of nis lordship^s life and an appropriate inscription,
containing his last and very memorable public or-

• I have not heard its height mentioned, but should imagine it
may be forty feet.

1 y

363 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC.

ders to the squadron before the battle of Trafalgar.
"England expects thatevery man will do his duty."

()

MISCELLANEOUS REMARKS ON MONTREAL.

This city is in latitude 45° 31' north, and in lon-
gitude 73° 35' west from Greenwich. It covers
one thousand and twenty acres — what was within the
old fortification was only one hundred acres. Its cli-
mate is very considerably milder than thatof Quebec,
and most persons would probably consider it as a more
desirable residence. In regard to accommodations, it
is so to a stranger, who will look in vain, in Que-
bec, for an establishment equal to the Mansion
House. He will find indeed, in Quebec, a good
table, but there are deficiencies on other topics, to
which an American, from the United States, and
still more perhaps, an Englishman, will not easily
be reconciled.

The following facts,* as to the extent of some of
the public establishments of Montreal, may be of
some use, towards a correct estimation of the pub-
lic spirit of the country, especially of that which
prevailed under the French dominion.

The Hotel Dieu, founded in 1644, is three hun-

^ dred and twenty-four feet in front, by four hundred

and sixty-eight deep j it is attended by thirty-six

nuns, who administer to the sick and diseased of

both sexes.

* Bouchetle.

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 369

The Convent of La Congregation de Notre
Dame, forms a range of buildings, two hundred and
thirty-four feet in front, by four hundred and thirty-
three ; the object of this institution is female in-
struction.

The general hospital or convent of the gray sis-
ters, was founded in 1750: it occupies a space
along the little river, St. Pierre, of six hundred and
seventy-eight feet, and is a refuge for the infirm
poor and invalids.

The Cathedral of Notre Dame, is one hundred
and forty-four feet by ninety-four; this church we
thought, in some respect?, more splendid in the in-
terior, but less grand, than that at Quebec. It con-
tains, among other things, a gigantic wooden image
of the Saviour on the cross. The Cathedral stands
completely in the street of Notre Dame, acro^is the
place d'armes, and entirely obstructs the view up
and down the street. This church is on the out-
side rude and unsightly.

The English Cathedral is the finest building in
Montreal — its tower, which is unfinished, is still in
progress; this church is very large, but I did not
learn its dimensions. Those whum we saw attend-
ing worship in it, were persons of very genteel ap-
pearance, including many military men, but the
•:hurch would have held ten times as many as were
present.

The seminary of St. Sulpice, occupies three
sides of a square and is one hundred and thirty-two
32

I >1

*? I

f,-.

370 TOUH BETWEEN HAKTPOltl) AND QUEBEC:.

»-^

feet by ninety, with spacious gardens. It was
ibunded about 1657. '

Ti»e new College or Petit Seminaire, is in the
Recollet suburbs ; it is two hundred and ten feet by
forty-tive, with a wing at each end of one hundred
and eighty-six (eet by forty-five; it is an appendage
•f the other seminary, and designed to extend its
aseftdness, by enlarging its accommodations.

There is near the mountain of Montreal, another
appendage of the seminary. It appears to be about
a mile from the town — it is a considerable stone
building surrounded by a ma«sy wali, which enclo-
ses extensive gardens, &lc. This place was former-
ly called Chateau des Seigneurs dc Montreal, but
now it has the appellation of La Maison des Pretres.
It is a place of recreation, resorted to, once a week,
by both the superiors and pupils of the Seminary.

There is no English College in Canada, but a
foundation for one has been laid by a g/L'ntleman,"^
who died in t8I4, and bequeathed ten thousand
pounds, besides a handsome real estate at the
Biountain near Montreal, " for the purpose of en-
dowing an English College ; but upon condition
that such an institution should be erected within
ten years, otherwise the property was to revert to
his heirs." 1 have not heard that the plan has ever
been carried into execution.

I know nothing that has excited my surprise
more in Canada, than the number, extent and vari-

* Hon. James M'Gill.

'1^

HKC.

lOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND quCREC. 371

It W^i

• -I . }

is in the
;n feet by
; hundred
ppendage
xtend its
»ns.

I, another
) be about
tble stone
ch enclo-
>s forme r-
treal, but
s Pretres.
e a week,
seminary,
da, but a
ntleman,*

thousand
:e at the
►se of en-
condiiion
ed within

revert to
1 has ever

■ surprise
and vari-

ety of the French institutions, many of them intrin-
sically of the highest importance, and all of them
(according to their views) possessing that character.
They are the more extraordinary when we con-
sider that most of them are more than a century
old, and that at the time of their foundation the
Colony was feeble, and almost constantly engaged
in war. It would seem from these facts, as if the
French must have contemplated the establishment
of a permanent and eventually of a great empire in
America, and this is the more probable, as most of
these institutions were founded during the ambitious,
splendid and enterprising reign of Louis XIV.

NORTH WEST COMPANY.

We have heard in the United States, much of the
contests of Lord Selkirk,* with the North West
Company. Fortunately the Americans, of the
States, are not involved in the quarrel, but it is solely
an affair of Briton with Briton.

We were honored with an introduction to Mr.
M'Gillivray, who since the death of Mr. M'Tavish,
is the principal member of the North West Com-
pitny. This gentleman, with plain unassuming bur
courteous manners, and much good sense and worth,
is highly esteemed in Canada.

•Thi« iiithlrnian itspeni!, lias now trrminateil his cnnfpfU and
hi« mor'.ul careiT.

■^4

»"*■ ,.•»

.372 TOVR BETWEEN HARTFORD ASTD qUB^EC,

His villa, situated on one of the declivities of the
mountain, about one mile and an half from the town
— commanding a very rich and extensive prospect,
is one of the most desirable residences, that I have
ever seen, and appears to possess the charms of a fine
English country seat, with a splendor and extent of
prospect, of which, (in an equal degree,) England
can rarely boast.

Lord Selkirk, it appears, claims, under the old
Hudson's Bay Company, a territorial right and ju-
risdiction, over, from one million to one miHion five
hundred thousand acres of country, including the
most important posts of the North West Company.

This company, it seems, claims no territorial
lights, except so far as to establish posts and depots,
necessary to the carrying on of the trade in furs,
which are their great object, and they entirely deny
the right of Lord Selkirk, to assume, or of the Hud-
son's Bay Company to grant a territorial jurisdic-
tion. The interfering views and arrangements of
the two parties, it is well known, have already pro-
duced several severe conflicts, in which a good
many lives have been lost. Mr. M'Gillivray in-
formed us, that the thing, much to his satisfaction,
had at last got before parliament, end he hoped
would now be arranged as it ought to be.

We were informed that the quantity of furs fur-
nished by the Indians, to the North West Company,
is diminished one half, but Mr. M'Gillivray thought
this rather fortunate than otherwise, because the im-

^A,

ties of the
n the town
i prospect,
hat I have
US of a fine
I extent of
) England

»r the old
ht and ju«
niHion five
uding the
L^ompany.
territorial
id depots,
le in furs,
rely deny
the Hud-
I jurisdic-
!menrs of
eady pro-
1 a good
llivray in-
tisfaction,
le hoped

furs fur-

company,
y thought
>e the im-

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND (QUEBEC. 373

poverishment of Europe, by its long continued
course of wars, had so diminished the demand, that
even now, it was fully supplied, and the only effect
of throwing more furs into the market, would be to
diminish the demand, and of course the prica.

ABORIGINES.

The native nations of this continent, it is true,
were ferocious and cruel, and in this character, I
have more than once, in the progress of these re-
marks, had occasion to stigmatize them. Yet it is
an interesting, and at the same time a melancholy
occupation, to remember, that scarcely two centu-
ries have elapsed, since this continent was occupied
by its aboriginal inhabitants ; heroic, lofty, free as
the winds, and ignorant of any foreign masters.
Now, the sword, and that still greater destroyer,
which all their courage cannot resist, have almost
exterminated these once powerful tribes. Their
lands, it is true, have been in many instances sold^
to the whites; sold! for what consideration! —
acres for beads and penknives — provinces for blank-
ets, and empires for powder, hall and rum. Have
they retired before the wave of European population,
and do they now exist in remoter and more happy
regions, where trader never came, nor white man
trod ? No ! those who once occupied the countries
which the whites now inhabit, are annihilated ', the

32*

I ^

jj*^

374 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC

' (0

blast of death has withered their heroic thousands ;
as nations they have sunk forever into the grave, and
their dust is mingled with the fiehls which we cuhi-

vate.

In our older settlements, especially in the Atlantic
cities, they are now almost as rarely seen, as a white
man in Tombuctoo, and the few who remain, are
miserable, blighted remnants of their ancestors, par-
alyzed and consumed by strong drink, squalid in
poverty and filth, and sunk by oppression and con-
tempt.

Are there any tribes that retain their former ele-
vation ? A few of them remain in the forests of the
west and of the north, and some of them find their
way to the cities of Canada. In the streets of
Montreal, we saw numbers of these people who had
come down from the north west, and their appear-
ance (although even they cannot refrain from intox-
ication) is such, that one who had never seen any
but the miserable beings who stagger about our At-
lantic towns, would hardly conceive that they be-
longed to the same race. Most of them, (females
as well as males,) are dressed in blue cloth panta-
loons, with a blue robe or blanket, thrown graceful-
ly over the shoulder, and belted with a scarlet or
party coloured girdio, around the waist. They
wear hats with lace and feathers, and havea'supe-
rior port, as if still conscious of some elevation of
character. But these ill-fated nations will become
extinct, notwithstanding the efforts of benevolent

■1, ■-'

I- .

X.J tr

EBEC.

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 375

thousands ;
grave, and
h we culti-

he Atlantic
, as a white
'emain, are
sstors, par-
, squalid in
n and con-
former ele-
ests of the
nfind their
streets of
le who had
eir appear-
rom intox-
• seen any
>ut our At-
t they be-
1, (females
oth panta-
II graceful-
scarlet or
t. They
ve a'supe-
evation of
11 become
)enevolcnt

individuals, especially as manifested by the estab-
lisbmenis formed in the south western parts of the
United States, to christianize and civilize them ;and
a heavy reckoning rests on the heads of the civilized
communities in America, for their cruel treatment of
the American Aborigines, and of the not less injur*
ed Africans.

PLOUGHING MATCH.

Within a few years, serious efforts have beeo
made in Canada, to encourage its agriculture. —
Colonel Oiilvy, one of the British Commissioners,
respecting the boundaries,* was among the first to
encourage agricuiuire. The late Governors Sher-
brook and Richmond, are also mentioned with
great respect, as distinguished patrons of the same
important interests.

A society is now organized in Montreal, for the
same purpose, aud at their instance, a ploughing
match was set on foot ; it occurred the day after
our return from Quebec, and I rode out to see it.

'J'welve pairs of horses, geared after the English
manner, dragged as many ploughs, each moving in
its appointed portion of a large smooth meadow.
Some of the ploughs were made entirely of iron,
and had a very light and neat appearance. The

♦ The news of whose unfortunate death, while engaged in the
discharge of the duties of that trust, reached Montreal while Wf
were there, and created a strong sensation of grief.

1) /

376 TOUR HETWEEN HARTFORD and QUEnEC.

ploughing was very well performed — the furrows
were almost inatijtiniatically strait, and the turf was
handsomely laid over. 1 was informed that there
were three premiums, the highest forty dollars, and
that they were granted both to excellence and speed
combined. .Li ...;;.

I, ^^

AGRICULTURAL DINNER.

A great dinner was provided at the Mansion

House where we lodged, and the friends of agricul-

ture assembled, to partake of its fruits. Dining in
support of Ones country^ and of its important inter-

estSy is a method of evincing patriotism, so general-
ly approved, that it rarely wants adherents. Nearly
forty gentlemen were assembled on the present oc-
casion, and among them were some of the princi-
pal people for wealth and influence.

The dinner hour in Quebec and Montreal is five
o'clock, but as it is always five till it is six, the time
of sitting down is usually delayed to near the latter
hour, and dinner is actually served, for the most part,
between six and seven o'clock. By invitation we at-
tended, and in the present instance, sat down at seven
o'clock ; the dinner, however, with all its appenda-
ges, was not over till the next day ; viz. till be-
tween twelve and one o'clock in the morning. I
need hardly say, that zoe did not sit it out ; we
stayed however long enough, to see the peculiari-
ties of a greai dinner in Montreal.

anEBEc.

the furrows
he turf was
i that there
dollars, and
e and speed

le Mansion
> of agricul-

Dining in
>rtant inter-
so general-
ts. Nearly
present oc-
the princi-

treal is five
X, the time
r the latter

most part,
ation we at-
wn at seven
s appenda-
\riz, till be-
orning. I
t out ; we

peculiari-

TOUR BETWEEN HARTPORD AND (itJEBEC. 37?

The tables were laid in a room of fifty feet in
length, and we marched into it, to the music of a
considerable band — piping and drumming, the fa-
vourite air, " speed the plough,^^

A large transparency, occupying the space from
the ceiling of a lofty room, nearly to the floor, ex-
hibited, behind the chair of the President, a view of
Montreal and of its beautiful mountain.

The table was spread and decorated in a very
handsome manner, and all the meats, poultry, wild
fowl, and vegetables, which are in season in the
United States, at this tim e were laid before us, in
the greatest perfection, both in the articles them-
selves and in the cookery. The desert was equal-
ly handsome, and of the same kind as is usual in
the United States. Who, however, that is unac-
quainted with Canada, would expect to see the finest
cantelopes, and the most delicious grapes, the pro-
duce of the country, and that in the middle of Oc-
tober? The grapes are raised in the open air,
but in winter the vines are not only covered with
straw, as with us, but with clay more than a foot
thick, and in the summer, a great proportion of
the leaves, except near the cluster, is taken ofT,
and the vines are prevented from running, by twist-
ing them. Peaches from the Genesee country, were
on the table, but they were not particularly good ;
apples, however, cantelopes. and grapes of the finest
kind^ and in the greatest profuiion^ have been
constantly before us in Canada, and have formed a

■, y

f^ 1^

378 TOUR BETWEEN HAKTFOKD AND ^IJEHKC.

part of almost every desert, even in the public
houses and in the steann boats. '* All the usual
garden fruits, as gooseberries,currants, strawberries,
raspberries, peaches, apricots and plums, are pro-
duced in plenty, and it may be asserted truly in as
much perfection as in many southern cHmatcs, or
even in greater." It is said that the orchards pro-
duce apples not surpassed in any country.

The agricultural productions of tlie country arc
very fine ; in no respect inferior to those of the
United States, and they are evidently raised, in
Lower Canada, in greaterprofusion, and with great-
re ease, than with us. The market in Montreal, is
excellent — it contains, according to the season, all
kinds of meats, with abundance of fowl, game, fish,
and vcgelables, in fine order.

The fine champaign country, which occupies so
large a part of Lower Canada, is exceedingly fer-
tile, and, although we are accustomed to consider
the climate as very severe, it is evidently very
healthy ; with the coutrivances which exist here,
for producing and preserving heat, and for excluding
cold, the climate is, by all accounts, ver) comforta-
ble ; and it does not appear, that it prevents the in-
habitants from enjoying nearly every production of
the earth, which is known in the States bordering
on Canada. Their potatoes and cauliflowers, are
particularly good, niid are raised with great ease.

The only article which we have found generally
bad, in this country, has been bread. The best

1 1 -

-V* >J»TI

^UEHCC.

I the public

II the usual
strawberries,
rns, are pro-
ed truly in as

climates, or
>rchards pro-
itry.

5 country are
) those of the
tly raised, in
nd with great-
n Montreal, is
le season, all
Af game, fish,

1 occupies so
ceedingly fer-
id to consider
vidently very
h exist here,
I for excluding
er) comforla-
events the in-
production of
tes bordering
I i flowers, are
great ease,
unci generally
d. The best

TOUtt BETWEEV HARTFORD ANI> QHEnEC. 379

which we have seen, has been only tolernble, and
mo^t of it lias been so sour, dark coloured, and bit-
ter, that it look some time to reconcile u? to it in any
degrno. We wore, beyond moasure, astoiiisht-d
at the b.ii!ne-s of this article, especially as it is so
good in England, atul in the cities of the United
States, and as t^o many of the Canadians are perfect-
ly acijuainted wiih both countries.

This public dinner was conducted with great de-
corum and civility.

After dinner, toasts were drunk, with music ; the
great personages of the empire, and of the North-
American colonies, were, of course, toasted, and va-
rious sentiments were given in honour of agriculture.
Most of them were drunk* standing, and with
cheers, three, six or nine, according to the intensity^

* There was one circumstance in this dinner, which I have not
elsewhere noticed. Wijen tiie loa^ts were to be cheered, the
Vice-Preeident, after rising, (and the company with him,) cried
out, ver J loud, and with very distinct articulation, anJ strong em-
phasis, and a pause between the words — liip I hip ! hip [——hur-
ra ! hurra 1 now ! now I now hurra ! again I again '.

again! burnt I — hip ! hip !^ — hurra ! hurra ! hurra ! &c. — the

company repeating only the hurra, to which the other words ap-
peared to be only a watch word, that all might join in the hurra
at once. Since this dinner, 1 am told by an Englishman, that this
ceremonial is not uncommon at set formal parties in England, but
I never heard of it while there.

A Scotch friend informs me that this custom is universal in
Britain, in large Public Dinners, particularly Political ones. This
is what is meant when a Toast is said to b6 drunk with Three
times Three, it is never called as with us Three Cheers.

380 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC

of feeling, or the dignity of the personages, or popu
larity of the sentiment.

|i fV ■

i /

The Canadians appear very loyal, and we cannot
be a day in their country, without perceiving in the
language and ma nners of the people that we are
under a royal government.

The mansion house, (originally built by Sir John
Johnson,"*^ son of Sir William Johnson, whose name
was so famous in the colonies, during the French
wars,)is the finest establishment of the kind in Can-
ada, and would be considered as a fine one in Eng-
land. The house, (as I remarked when here before,)
is very large, with two wings, lately added, almost
as extensive as the house itself, and contains ample
accommodations for public or private parties, for
balls and assemblies, for individuals or families, and
is delightfully situated, with its front upon the im-
mediate bank of the St- Lawrence, where the river,
and every thing upon it, and much of the surround-
ing country, is in full view.

HISTORY, kc.

After the fall of Quebec, in September, 1759,
Montreal became the rendezvous of the remaining
forces of the French, and the Marquis Vaudreuille

* Who is fltill living in Montreal, although now an old man.

M ,

-•«_

CEREf:.

s, or popu

we cannot
ving in the
at we are

)y Sir John
whose name
the French
[ind in Can-
one in Eng-
jre before,)
Ided, almost
itains ample
parties, for
families, and
pon the im*
re the river,
le surround-

nber, 1759,
e remaining
Vaudreuille

' an old man.

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND <),UEREC. 381

Governor-General of Canada, during the ensuing
summer of 1760, made every eflfort possible, to save
the country. But, it was ail in vain. The force
which General Amherst commanded, was totally
superior to all Ihat the FVench General could mus-
ter. It was not, however, till September, that the
conquest of Canada was fully accomplished* On
the sixth of that month. General Amherst, with an
army of more than ten thousand men, landed at La
Chine, on the island of Montreal, having prosecuted
his enterprise, under very great hardships and diffi-
culties, through the wilderness, Irom Schenectady
to Oswego, and down Lake Ontario, and the rapids
of the St. Lawrence ; on the same day, General
Murray arrived with his army, from Quebec, and
the day after, General Haviland, with another ar-
my from Lake Champlain, appeared at Longueil.
Thus, by a singular concurrence, (devoutly regard-
ed at the time, by the good people of the English
colonies, as peculiarly the result of the favouring
providence of God,) Ihrce powerful armies, amount-
ing lomore than twenty thousand men, arrived, al-
most at the same hour, from regions widely remote,
and after encountering peculiar, and great difficul-
ties.

Nothing remained for the Marquiy de Vaudreuille,
surrounded, as he was, by an overwhelming force,
but to capitulate. Accordingly, on the eighth, ho
surrendered his army prisoners of war, and with
them, tlie whole of Canada aijJ its dcpendrncics.

!/'

382 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC.

' i :

I't

> •■ I!

The most honourable terms were granted to him,
in consequence of the signal gallantry, talent, perse-
verance, and patriotism, which he had displayed.
" Thus, in little more than a century and a half
from its first settlement, in the sixth year of the
war, after six* general battles, this vast country was
completely conquered by the conjoined armies of
Great Britain and her colonies."!

Montreal was taken by General Montgomery, on
the thirteenth of November, 1775, but without op-
position, except that a little before. Governor
Carleton had been defeated at Longueil, by Colo-
nel Warner, an event which prepared the way for
the downfall of St. Johns, and of Montreal itself.

This city has been, more or less, concerned in
all the wars of this country, since its foundation;
but, I am not informed that any very memorable bat-
tle has been fought in its vicinity. It was never
very strongly fortified, and, at present, there is not
even the appearance of fortification ; the old walls
and forts having been levelled, and even the Cita-
del-Hill, an artificial mound of commanding eleva-
tion, which, with vast labor, the French had erected
in the midst of the city, they are now in the act of

♦ Those of Lake George, TicoDderoga, Niagara, Montmorenri.
Quebec and Sillery.

I .

t Trumbuirs History of Counecticut.

(7KBEC.

ed to him,
lent, perse-
] displayed,
and a half
'ear of the
rountry was
d armies of

igomery, on
without op-
, Governor
il, by Colo-
the wav for
^al itself,
^ncerned in
foundation;
morable hat-
; was never
there is not
he old walls
en the Cita-
iding eleva-
had erected
n the act of

, Montmorenri,

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND <^UEBEC. 383

removing, to make room for a reservoir of water.*
As at Quebec, I observed great piles of heavy can-
non, but, probably, they have reference principally
to naval preparations.

There is a small body of troops here at present,
and I had an opportunity of seeing some of them
parade in the beautiful ground called the Champs
de Mars. There are extensive stone barracks on
the St. Lawrence, at the lower end of the city ;
they are occupied by the British troops, but, I pre-
sume, were erected by the French, as they are in
their style of architecture.

CAOTION TO STRANGERS IN CANADA.

Soon after arriving on the St. Lawrence, almost
every stranger finds his stomach and bowels deran-
ged, and a diarrhoea, more or less severe, succeeds-
The fact is admitted on all hands; and sometimes
the complaint becomes very serious, and is said, in
a few cases, (very peculiar ones, I presume,) to
have become dang^eronB, and oven faul. It is im-
puted to the lime, supposed Co be dissolved by the
St. Lawrence, whose waters are generally used for
culinary purposes. I have never heard that any

* I was informed at Montreal, that this was the object of r«>
moving Citadel- Hill ; but a correspondent, aince the publication
or the first edition of thir book, siig^getl! that the removal '* was to
open and extend the itrect, and not |o make room for a reaervoir
•f water."

i il

384 TOUR BETWEEN HAUTFORD AND (QUEBEC.

i V

>J)

* i

/:'l

Y"-

chemical examination of the waters has been per-
formed, but it is evident that it contains something
foreign, because it curdles soap. It is said that
boihng makes it harmless. The same thing is as-
serted of the waters of Holland, which produce
similar effects upon strangers. I have experienced
these effects both in Holland, and in Canada ; and Mr.

W was, in the latter country, more severely

affected than myself.

Strangers from the United States, coming here,
should be very cautious of their diet, especially as
the hour" are so different from those that prevail
in most of the States, and as they are even much
later than those of our cities. The late dinners,
and the conviviality of Canada, subject a stranger,
(especially from the eastern States,) to be eating
meats and drinking wine, when he usually drinki
tea, and his stomach has been, perhaps, before en-
feebled by fasting, and is (hen enfeebled again by
repletion. The sour bread also appears to have its
share in producing a derangement of the stomach.

PECULIAR MODE OF EXTRACTING TEETH.

Severe suffering from my teeth, while in Mon-
treal, oblit^ed me to resort lolhe usual painful rem-
edy. It was rendered, however, in the present in-
stance, much less distressing than common, by a
mode of extraction, which 1 have never seen prac-
tised elsewhere.

I ■

UEBEC.

as been per-
ns something

is said that
2 thing is as-
lich produce

experienced
iada;and Mr.
ore severely

conning here,
especially as
5 that prevail
re even much

late dinners,
!ct a stranger,

to be eating
usually drihki
ps, before en-
)led again by
ars to have its
' the stomach.

G TEKTH.

vhile in Mon-
1 painful reni-
he present in-
common, by a
ver seen nrac-

TOUR BETWEEN UARTFORO AND QUEB£C. 385

A pair of strong hawks-bill forceps, bent at the
mouth, gently downward, and then inward, and
terminating in delicate teeth, is applied to the tooth
to be drawn; no cutting of the gum is practised,
nor any preparation, except simply to place a small
piece of wood (pine is commonly used,) between
the forceps and the jaw, and close to the tooth;
this stick is the prop — the tooth is the weight to be
lifted, and the hand applies the power just at the
end of the lever, that is, at the other end of the for-
ceps. The pressure is applied downward, if it be
the lower jaw— upward, if it be the upper jaw, and
the tooth (without any thing of that horrible crash
which attends the usual mode of extraction, without
prying against the jaw, and thus creating danger of
breaking it, besides producing much pain by the
pressure on the sides of the socket,) is lifted per-
pendicularly from its bed ; there is no other vio-
lence than to break the periosteum, and the con-
necting vessels and nerves, and the thing is etTect-
ed with comparatively little pain. When it is de-
sired simply to cut a tooth off, in order to plug it,
it is necessary only to compress the instrument,
without prying.

It may be supposed that the pressure against the
jaw, by the prop, must be painful ; on the contrary,
it iF not felt, because the action and re-action are
exactly equal, between the pressure on the jaw
and the resistance of the tooth. Dr. Fay, from

33*

{

i n

jfct'

; .)

i .J.

386 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC.

Vermont, is the person who operates in this ingen-
ious manner.*

CATHOLIC WORSHIP.

This worship is fully maintained in Canada. It
is said that the Catholics of this country even lay
claim to a greater degree of purity and strictness,
than those of old France. In other Catholic coun-
tries, they go from the church to the theatre, but
it was stated to us in Montreal, that the Catholic
priests do not permit their people to attend the
theatres, and that it is very rare that a Catholic is
seen in them in Canada.

We visited numbers of their houses of worship,
and, even in their villages, these houses are deco-
rated with pictures, and considerably ornamented
in their finishing. We never entered one of them,
without finding people at their devotions. They
cross themselves with holy water, and then, with
much apparent seriousness, repeat their prayers
silently, moving their lips only. As in other Cath-
<klic countries, the people here are said to be very
ignorant of the scriptures, but of this 1 can say
nothing from personal knowledge.

The Catholic cathedrals at Montreal and Que-
bec, are splendidly ornamented with a profusion of
pictures, images and gilding, and the dresses worn

* I am awaie that the iLing has been attempted in other modes,
bat I believe in none so simple and eflectual.

J*.-..

UEBEC.

this ingen-

Canada. It
try even lay
d strictness,
itholic coun-
thcatre, but
the Catholic
3 attend the
a Catholic is

i of worship,
ses are deco-
ornamcnted
one of them,
ions. They
d then, with
heir prayers
1 other Cath-
id to be very
is 1 can say

sal and Que-
» profusion of
dresses worn

1 in other modes,

TOUR BETWEEN HAtlTFORD AND (QUEBEC. 307

by the ecclesiastics and attendants in the cathedral
in Montreal, are very showy and costly, being com-
posed of silk, curiously embroidered, and flowered
with many colors, and with gold. Th'jre was wor-
ship at this cathedral, before the hour of the Pro-
testant service, and we were present a pari of the
time. The building is very large, but it was crowd-
ed to overflowing; every alley and nook was filled,
and the utmost attention and scriousruss appeared
in the congregation. The preacher pronounced a
discourse* in French, in a very animated and im-
pressive manner, and it was considered as an elo-
quent performance, and in very good classical
French. His private character also was said to be
excellent. ., .

Nine tenths of all the population here are Cath-
olics, and, in every village, the cross is seen dis-
played in some conspicuous place ; it is commonly
made of wood, and is frequently surmounted by a
crown of thorns. The Catholic clei^y of Canada
are highly spoken of by the Protestants, and, al-
though there may be exceptions, they are said gen-
erally to exert a salutary influence over the com-
mon people. Articles of property which have been
stolen, are frequently returned, unsolicited, to the
proper owners, and that through the intervention of
the priests.

* His object was to recommend the example of Clirijt to the
imitation ofhis audience.

I ' *

H*;

V-( ■ [

388 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC.

The Cd'hoiic Churcli in Canada is opulent. It?
principal source of n!v^(!nue is from the lodes H
ventcs^ or fines of alienation, which is a certain per
centii>i;c on tiie sal*; of real estate. It was stated to
us A^ being in Montreal eight per cent, on the sales
of all real estates in the seigniory ; that is, in the
whole island, which is thirty miles long by ten and
a half wide. The CalhoUc Church* is the seignicur
to this seigniory. The per centage is paid by the
purchaser, and is repeated ^very time the estate is
sold. This enormous charge is not, however, fully
enforced ; the clergy are glad to compound for five
per cent, and it is even, in some instances, evaded
or refused altogether, and I believe it is rarely en-
forced by law, although it is understood that the
right is complete. Perhaps the clergy may feel
a delicacy in prosecuting an unpopular claim, under
a government, which, although it protects them
fully in their rights, and exercises towards them a
perfect toleration, is of a different religious order.
It is a strange fact, not only that the Catholics of
Britain and Ireland, but even other sectaries from
the established church, do not experience, at home,
any thing like the toleration which is enjoyed by the
Catholics in Canada; rather, it would almost seem
as if the latter were, in Canada, the estabhshed

, 1

* Bouchetle states that this property belongs to the Seminary
of St. Sulpice, but this is, I supi oee, only another name for its {
belon j;iris: to the clergy, who are the fathers and directors of the
inntitutieo.

QUEBEC.

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 389

opulent. It?
[1 the lodes tt
I a certain per
t was stated to
it. on the sales
that is, in the
mg by ten and
s the seignicur
is paid by the
le the estate is
however, fully
Tipound for five
itances, evaded
it is rarely en-
stood that the
lergy may feel
lar claim, under

protects them
towards them a
religious order,
he Catholics of

sectaries from

rience, at home,

s enjoyed by the

uld almost seem \

the estabUshed

mgs to the Seminarf |
another name for itt |
I and directors of the

church still, and that the Protestant Episcopal, and
other denominations, were the U rated sects. The
present Speaker of the House of Commons in Low-
er Canada, is a Catholic.

1 have already remarked that we attended wor-
ship in a very large Episcopal Church recently
erected, and although the building does honour to
Montreal, it was by no means so well tilled as the
Catholic Cathedral.

Indeed, it is wonderful that sixty years of sub-
jection to a foreign power have not done more to
weaken the French establishments and institutions
in Canada. They not only remain for the most
part, but seem, in many instances, to have gained
vigor, and every thing still bears a thousand times
more the appearance of a French than of an Eng-
lish country. This is not more apparent in any
thing, than in the general prevalence of

THE FRENCH LANGUAGE.

This is altogether the prevailing tongue of the
towns, and the invariable language of the villages.
In the streets, both in town and country; in the
steam-boats ; in the markets ; and, in short, every
where, you hardly ever hear any thing but French.
All people of business, of education, of fashion and
influence, speak both languages; and we were in-
formed, that the proceedings of all courts, and alt
nleadinirs and arguments in them, are carried on in

pleadings

/ V

V !

•■ M

'. I •

390 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC.

both. The common people in the towns generally
speak both ; many of those who come to market
also ; but in the villages we more generally found
that they spoke French only.

It is conceded, I believe, that the French gentry
in Canada speak and write the language with purity.
We heard an eminent French gentleman, at the
agricultural dinner, sing 'God save the King' in
French; but it is often said, that the common
French Canadians speak only a spurious and cor-
rupted French, having only a remote resemblance
to that of France. B\it there seems reason to doubt
the correctness of this opinion. Mr. W— , who,
in youth, learned to speak the French language in
France, not only found no difficulty in conversing
with the common people — (and we had considera-
ble intercourse with them)-»but ho gives ii as his
opinion, i^at the French spoken by them is, if any
thing, more pure than that used by the country peo-
ple of France, and that it is as good as the English
spoken by the common classes of society in the
United States. In many instances, the phraseolo-
gy of the country people was considered as remark-
ably apposite, and even occasionally, elegant. I
have already quoted the opinion of Charlevoix on-
this point ; and there seems to have been, in tkic
respect, very little change, since his time.

,■■»
- » \

«i*"- »

A. ^ ■

I^UBBEC.

TOUR BETWBEN HARTFORD AND qtPBEC. *>I

^ns generally
e to market
lerally found

rench gentry
3 with purity,
iman, at the
the King' in
the common
ious and cor-
resemblance
lason to doubt

W , who,

h language in
in conversing
tad considera-
gives it as his
lem is, if any
I country peo-
as the English
lociety in the
he phraseolo-
red as remark-
, elegant. I
harlevoix on-
been, in thi«
ime*

FREiNCH POPULATION— THEIR MANNERS, CO:
VILLAGES, POLITICAL SITUATION, &c.

Colonel Bouchette states the population of Low-
er Canada at three hundred and ihirty-five thous-
and ; and of this number, two hundred and sev-
enty five thousand are French.* It is, therefore,
still a French country, and it is surprising, that in
more than half a century so little impression has
been made on their peculiar characteristics.

In the lower province, where they are almost ex-
clusively found, the soil is generally luxuriant; they
inhabit, for the most part, the rich alluvial soil by
which the St. Lawrence, the Sorel, and other prin-
cipal waters, are so extensively bordered. Their
subsistence is easily obtained — there are scarcely
any marks of extreme poverty among them, and a
mendicant we never saw while in the country. —
They are, however, generally without enterprise,
and are satisfied to go on without change, from gen-
eration to generation. There is much reason to be-
lieve, that they give a very just exhibition of the
French people in the provinces from which they
emigrated, as they were two hundred years ago. I
speak of the common people. They are more like
an European peasantry, than any thing in this coun-
try : I mean in North America. They are truly a
peasantry, except that they are vastly superior to
European peasantry in comforts and in privileges.

L * la 1663, it contained 7000 souls ; in 1714, 20,000 ; in 1759,
70,000 ; ia 1775, 90,000, including upper Canada— fioue^ttt.

: f

392 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND (^TJEBEC.

It is questionable, whether any conquered coun-
try was ever better treated by its conquerers. They
were left in complete possession of their religion,
and of the revenues to support it ; of their property,
laws, customs, and manners ; and even the very
governing* and defending of the country is almost
without expense to them. They are said to pay
no taxes to government, and none of any descrip-
tion, except a trifling sum of a few shillings a year
to their seigneurs, as an acknowledgment for the
tenure of their lands, and a twenty sixth part of
their grain to the clergy, with certain liabiliiies to
contribute to the repair of churches, and various
other public objects.

With the affairs of government they give them-
selves little concern ; and it is a curious fact, if cor-
rectly stated to us by various intelligent men in
Canada, that this couiitry, so far from being a source
of revenue, is an actual charge upon the treasury of
the empire.

It would seem as if the trouble and expense of
government were taken off their hands, and as if

,1 \'-

♦Remarks by « British frien.l. — Lower Canada now, 1821
pays its own Civil List, but all the military establishment is at
the expense of the Home Government : and no advantage of a pe-
cuniary kind is derived from our N. American Colonies. Even
the timber has been proved before Parliament to be so inferior,
that this year a tax has bf^en laid upon it, to make it more equal
in this respect with the Baltic timber, which is much superior in
quality, but was excluded in a great measure from our markets by
a prohibitory duty.

t I

JCBEC.

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 399

Bred coun-
•ers. They
ir religion,
ir property,
n the very
-y is almost
;aid to pay
,ny descrip-
lings a year
nent for the
ixth part of
liabiliiies to
and various

' give them-
sfact, ifcor-
gent men in
eing a source
le treasury of

expense of
ds, and as if

lada now, 1821
ablishinent is at
vantage of a pe-
Colonies. Evt-n
to be so inferior,
ike it nriore equal
much superior in
m our markets by

they were left to enjoy their own domestic comforts
without a drawback. Such is certainly the appear-
ance of the population, and i^t is doubtful whether
even our own favored communities are politically
more happy. It is evident that the Canadians are
abundantly more so, than the mass of the English
population at home. They are not exposed, in a
similarmanner, to poverty, and the danger of starva-
tion, which so often invade the Enirlish manufac-
turing districts, and which, aided by their denia-
gogues, goad them on to every thing but open re-
bellion.

Such is the richness of the soil in Lower Cana-
da, that the farmers are said even to be afraid of
raising too much produce, lest the price should fall.
They have so little occasion to manure their
grounds, that stable manure, as we were assuivd,
is, in the winter — even now, and it was much more
the fact formerly — carried on to the river, and left
in heaps on the ice, that they may get rid of it as a
nuisance ; and, in general, it cannot be given away
— people will not remove it without being paid for
their labor. Such negligence and bad farming are
much to be regretted ; for even the island of Mon-
treal, beautiful as it is, would certainly be the bet-
ter for the manure which is annually thrown away,
and I trust their new agricultural society will jfoon
teach the people a better lesson on this subject,
and prevent their wasting so rich a treasure.

394 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC.

In the costume of the French gentry in Canada,
there is nothing pecii! ar. 'J he peasantry fre(|uent-
\y wear a blue or red woollen CcTp, tailing back in a
pendant cone, and many of them wt-ar a red or
oarty-colored woo'len sash around their waists —
They are very fond of tobacco, anti aie f'equently
observed smoking with a short pipe, wh>!e t'u\) are
walking or driving their curts. We were suflicient-
ly amused, at seeing a common Frenchman driv ug
a cart of dry straw in the streets of Montreal, while
he was sitting immediately before it, smoking his
pipe quite unconcerned, although a strong wind
was blowing the sparks directly toward^ the straw,
A day or two after, we met another, also smoking,
and with the utmost sang froid^ sitting in the midst
of his load of straw.

We visited a number of villages, and went into
several houses of the peasantry, besides looking
into many others, particularly around Quebec, the
delightful weather causing them to throw their win-
dows wide open. Most of the cottages are con-
structed of logs, nicely 84|uared, and laid up; the
angles are framed or halved together, the seams are
made tight by plaister, good windows and doors are
titted in, the roofs are generally of shingles, the
whole is tight against the weather, and neatly white-
washed, roof and all; at least, this is commonly
the fact on the St. Lawrence. 1 have already men-
tioned thfit the belter sort of cottages are built of
stone, sometimes covered with cement and some-

^,M

hbec.

[I Canada,

fre(|U<-nt-

back in a

a red or
• waists —
frequently
!e Xhr) are
' giifliciont-
(landriv ug
;real, while
-moking his
trong wind
? the straw,
so smoking,

in the midst

)d went into
ides looking
Quebec, the
iw their win-
res are con-
aid up ; the
he seams arc
ind doors are
shingles, the
neatly white-
s commonly
already men-
are built of
nt and some-

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD A\D QUEBEC. 395

times not. Inside, the houses appear very comfort-
able : they are plastered or waiuscoated, and each
mansion is furnished with an ample stove, usually
standif g in the middle of a large room, or in the
partition of two, or in the common angle of several.
There are large out houses, barns, &c. built in much
the same manner as the houses.

We had occasion several times to call at the hous-
es of the peasantry for milk, or something else that
we wanted. The milk was very rich, and for a
trifle, was bountifully furnished. The manners of
the French in Canada, are extremely courteous and
kind ; those of the gentry are of course polished,
but the common people, also, have a winning gen-
tleness and suavity, and a zealous forwardness to
serve you, which, particularly in the villages, de-
lighted us very much. Even the common " oui
Monsieur,''^ is uttered in a manner so different from
the blunt coldness of our common people, who fre-
quently also forget the Monsieur, that wc were
much struck with the difference.*

The women, of course, excel the men, in all that
is bland in manner, and obliging in conduct ; there
is aho a lady-like self-possession about them; they
do not appear at all embarrassed, by the quc>tions
of a stranger, but aii^iwer them with the ease and
politeness of higher Hfe, without relinquishing the
simplicity of manners appropriate to their uwn con-

* Wo were treated with much kiDdness by all classes of people
in Cuuada.

/rtmi- I

I \

\ \

396 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND qUEHEC.

(lition. It would seem from the citations which 1
have made from Charlevoix, that there have been
in these respects, no serious changes in a century.
After our visit to the Chaudiere, being late and in
haste, we asked for some milk at a peasant's door,
without meaning to go in; the milk was instantly
produced, but we must not drink it at the door;
"entrez Monsieur," "entrez Monsieur," waskind-
iy repeated by the woman of the house, and we
went in; she seated us around a table, and furnish-
ed us with a bowl of tine milk, and with tumblers
to drink it out of.

Mr. W was much gratified to find that the

manners of the peasantry of Canada remained pre-
cisely like those of France. Like the people of
the parent country, they continue very fond of mu-
sic ; wc frequently heard the violin in the streets
of the towns and villages. At Beauport, we saw
them dancing merrily at a wedding, which had just
been celebrated at noon day, and the bride and
bridegroom were walking home, neatly dressed,
hand in hand, and with a cheerful air.

There are May poles in most of their villages ;
iiomo of them are very high, and splendidly painted ;
they voluntarily erect them as a mark of respect be-
fore the door of the man in the village, whom they
wish to honour as their best citizen, and gaily
dance around them on the first of May. They
are very fond of dogs — in the towns, thoy are from
their numbers, a perfect nuisance, and lately at Que-

Eli EC.

10UR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 397

ns which 1

have been

a century.

late and in

sant's door,

as instantly

t the door;

," waskind-

ise, and we

and furnish-

ith tumblers

find that the
smained pre-
[le people of
J fond of mu-
n the streets
)ort, we saw
hich had just
le bride and
atly dressed,

heir villages ;
hdly painted;
of respect be-
e, whom they
;n, and gaily
May. They
they are from
lately at Que-

bee, a verdict of fifty pounds, was given by a jury,
for the shooting of a dog by a gentleman at whom
he flew. The death of the Duke of Richmond,
seems not to have excited any particular dread of
dogs.

Lower Canada is a fine country, and will hereaf-
ter become populous and powerful, especially as
the British and Anglo-American population shall
flow in more extensively, and impart more vigour
and activity to the community.

The climate, notwithstanding its severity, is a
good one and very healthy, and favorable to the
freshness and beauty of the human complexion.
All tl)e most important comforts of life are easily
and abundantly obtained, although the expenses of
living are high, considering the fertility of the
country.

A more correct knov.lcdge of Canada, is now
fast diffusing itself through the American States,
since the intercourse is become so easy, and I be-
lieve few Americans from the States, now visit this
country, without returning more favourably impress-
ed, respect ng it han they expected to be. It will
be happy if friendly sentiments and the interchange
of mutual ' ourtesie shall do away the unfounded
i ipressions and prejudices of both communities.
Commercial intercourse between the two countricF.

34*

, i

\ '

I hi

398 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC.

is also important, and 1 presume, mutually advanta-
gco.is, and will probably continue to increase.
The commen ial men in Canada are principally
British and American.

DEPARTURE FKOM CANADA.

We left Montreal on the morning of the four-
teenth, in a thick snow, which however soon ceas-
ed ; the crystals of snow were all single prisms, or
two prisms, united at an angle, and not the usual
star of six rays. The first snow of the season fell
the day before, when I was on the mountain of
Montreal.

The country and the appearance of the people
between Montreal and St. Johns, on the river Sor-
el, a distance of twenty-seven miles, are so similar
to what 1 have atready described, that i find little
to add.

From Montreal to Chambly, fifteen miles, is a
perfectly flat alluvial co mtry, with a deep rich soil,
and appears to have been a mere swamp, till cul-
tivation had redeemed it. The road I. as been made
by ditching and embankment, and considering the
nature of the country, the road is not bati.

Chambly is a considerably jarge town, for Cana-
da ; containsafew good andsome handsome houses,
extensive barracks,* both for infantry and cavalry,
and a few troops.

♦ Errttcd, principally, during the late war, when it was a
great military statioo

UEBCC.

Uy advanta-

increase.

principally

of the four-
ir soon ceas-
le prisms, or
lot the usual
e season fell
mountain of

the people

le river Sor-

are so similar

t 1 find little

1 miles, is a
eep rich soil,
imp, till ctd-
as been made
nsidering the
53;).

vn, for Cana-
some houses,
and cavalry,

, when it was a

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 399

There is here an interesting remnant of the old
French dominion. It is a square fort of stone,
probably forty feet high, and two hundred feet on
the ground, on each of its sides. It has square
towers, projecting from each of its angles, so tiiat
every approach to it could be completely enfiladed
by three tiers of cannon. We were permi.ted to
visit the insi«ie, which is a square open to the
heavens, although the walls are so thick, as to con-
tain numerous enclosed apartments. The P^'ench
mi itary works, in this country are highly respecta-
ble, considering the immaturity of the country, when
they were erected, and the length of time that has
elnpsed since most of them were constructed. The
fort, (or perhaps it might more properly be called
the Castle) of Chambly has the date 1711, cut in
the stone near the portcullis. This fortress was
taken by General Montgomery, in 1775, previously
to the surrender of the Fort at St. Johns.

At Chambly, the river Sorel, which both above
and below is sluggish, (at least it is so, near its
mouth and at St. John's) becomes very lively, roar-
ing over a rocky bottom and forming a pretty, al-
though not an impetuous rapid. In the only place
upon its banks, where I had an opportunity to see
any of the rocks, th«*y were flat secondary lime-
stone, covered by slate.

From Chambly to St. Johns, twelve miles, there
is a beautiful country, al )ng the bank of the river;
the population is a numerous one, and in summer,

'. .

(■

'tl

400 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC.

this must be one of the finest rides that a flat coun-
try can prf s^iit.

Near Ch^mbly, baton the other side of the river,
there is » iaruje and handsome house, belonging to
General Christie Burton, who has there an estab-
lishment of mills.

We arrived in the town of St. John^sin the after-
noon. We were very conifortabiy accommodated
at Cameron's Inn ; but St. John's is a place in
which a stranger will not wish to remain long. Al-
though the country is fertile about it, its appearance
is mean, dirty and disagreeable. A few troops are
stationed here, but the ancient fort, which was very
extensive, and still looks very venerable, with Its
high earthen walls and falling barracks, is an interes-
ting ruin. It was captured in 1775 by General
Montgomery, after a gallant defence, and a consid-
erably protracted seige.

This place was an important post during the
French wars, and even during the revolutionary
war: the same was true ofChambly, and both have
been taken and retaken, although I do not remem-
ber any very memorable event, that has signalized
their transfer from one power to another.

In wandering about the ruins of the fort, 1 ob-
served the cemetery of the garrison ; their monu-
ments are boards painted black, and the inscription
is in white painted letters.

4^,

S6EC.

flat couQ-

rOVU BETWEEN HARTFOluD AND QITEnEC. 401

the river,
onging to
aa estab-

the after-
nmodated

place in
3ng. Al-
ppearance
roops are
\ was very
, with its
m interes-
r General

a consid-

uring the
olutionary
)Oth have
)t remem-
signalized

ort, 1 ob-
eir monu-
nscription

October 15. — At eight o'clock in the morning, we
left St. John's in the steam boat Congress, and al-
though encountering both an opposing wind and
current, we swept along with great rapidity, in one
of the swiftest and best boats that 1 have ever seen.
She is not large, but is fitted up with great neat-
ness, and every thing about her is in fine order.

We soon passed the Isle aux Noix, which, as
observed in the passage down, has also been cele-
brated in the military history of these countries, and
is now fortified and occupied by a considerable
force. Troops appeared to be engaged in throw-
ing up additional works. There are large bar-
racks on this island, and numbers of officers reside
here, on (his low spot of only eighty-five acres, in
what appears to be a gloomy exile. This island is
particularly important to the naval command of
Lake Champlain, and here the unfortunate Captain
Downie's squadron was fitted out.

fn passing into Canada, I remarked, that the
country on both sides of the river, quite to the
lake, is a dismal low swamp, with only inconsider-
able clearings and settlements. It is said, howev"
er, to be healthy.

At Rouse's Poin^ at the confluence of the river
Sorel with Lake Champlain, we again passed the
strong stone work recently erected by the United

'^,

'hi

402 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC.

States to command the river, and now about to fall
to the British government.

Once more we were in our own waters, and in a
short time passed around Cumberland Head, which
is composed of flat strata of secondary limestone.

PLATTSBURGH BAY.

The fine capacious Bay of Pittsburgh was now
before us, and the town of the same name. The
important military events which have occurred
here, are too recent and familiar to make any very
particular notice of them necessary. This is still
a military station, and when one sees the position
occupied by the British army before it in 1814,
and contemplates their numbers, compared with
the feeble force which so gallantly opposed them,
he is astonished that they did not at once storm and
carry the foits, and annihilate all opposition. Ev-
ery one here says that they might, with the great-
est ease, have done it.* We were on shore, and
visited some of the works.

We learned the exact position of Commodore
Macdonough's fleet, and passed over this portion
of the bay. We conversed with numbers of per-
mit doubtless would hare been attempted, had the fleet been
victorious; but after its destruction, the acquisitioD of the forts
would perhaps have beea of little use.

L'm«4'

7EDEC.

•out to fall

's, and in a
ead, which
nestone.

h was now
ime. The
5 occurred
le any very
This is still
he position
it in 1814,
pared with
osed them,
: storm and
ition. Ev-
1 the great-
shore, and

Jommodore
his portion
eis of per-

Ihe fleet been
10 of the forts

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 403

sons who were witnosses of (he action, and some of
whom wore on board immediately after it was ter-
mii.ateci. We passed dose to the small island, call-
ed Crab Island, to which ihe dead and wounded of
botii fleets were carried, and which was the com-
mon grave of h'if»dreds of friend:- and foes. The
particular delruU of Ihe scenes of horror which at-
tended and succeeded the battle — of the shocking
mutilations of the human form, in every imnginable
mode and decree, and of the appalling display on the
beach, of so many bodies, dead and wounded, pre-
paratory to their conveyance either to the hospital
or to the grave, I shall, for very obvious reasons,
omit. Even now, their bones, slightly buried on a
rocky island, are partly exposed to view, or, being
occasionally turned up by the roots of the trees,
blown down by the wind, shock the beholder; and
the buttons, and other parts of their clothes, (for
the military dresses in which they were slain, were
also their winding sheets,) are often seen above
ground. Long may it be, ere the waters of this
now peaceful lake are again crimsoned with hu-
man blood !

One remarkable fact I shall mention, on the au-
thority of an American surgeon, who attended up-
on the wounded of both fleets. The Americans re-
covered much faster than the British, where their
injuries were similar; healthy granulations formed,
and the parts united and healed more readily. Thii
was imputed to the different state of mind in the
victors and in the vanquished.

'7,

»«r^

404 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD ANI> QUEBEC.

ANECDOTES.

A British officer in Canada, of his own accord,
spoke to me in the highe.st terms of the American
navy, and of its officers. He metitioned Captain
Hull particularly, with a frankness of commenda-
tion, that was equally honorable to himself, and to
the subject of his praise. He said that an officer of
the Guerriere, who was on board of that frigate
when she was captured by Captain Hull, narrated
to him the circumstance to which I am about to
allude.

It will be remembered, that Captain Hull was
standing before the wind, a little east of north, with
all sail set, when he descried the Guerriere, under
double reefs, standing on a wind, to the southward
and westward. The Constitution then hauled to,
shortened sail, and prepared for action ; immedi-
ately after which, she resumed her course before
the wind, and commenced bearing down upon the
Guerrie»e. The latter ship having tacked, so as
to bring her bowsprit to the northward and east-
ward, having her main top-sail aback, and being
about two miles distant, (that is, at long cannon
shot,) fired her broadside, but it was not returned
by the Constitution. The Guerriere then wore,
as short round as possible, and gave her antagonist
the other broadside ; still the fire was not returned ;
but Captain Hull, with hU ship in fighting trim, con-
tinued to bear down upon his adversary, who, find-

lEC.

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND Q,UBREC. 405

I accord,

merican

Captain

Dmenda-

f, and to

officer of

it frigate

narrated

about to

Hull was
)rth, with
re, under
outhward
lauled to,
; immedi-
rse before
I upon the
ed, so as
and east-
and being
ig cannon
, returned
fien wore,
antagonist

returned;
; trim, con-

who, find-

ing that he was thu-^ pressed, continued, on his part,
to wear and to fire, firet one broadside and then the
othrr; to «ll this, however, Captain Hull paid no
attention, hut continuing to recieve the fire of the
Gnerrierc without returning it, pressed forward,
till he was now very near. The Guerriere then
put before the wind, lo make a running fight, and
the Constitution followed on, directly astern, till
finding that the G'.ierriere would outsail her, she
spread more canvass, when she gained so fast upon
the chase, that she was soon enabled to take her
position upon the larboard side of her antaj;o:»ist,
and to deliver her fire at very <',lose quarters, when
the mizen-mast of the Guerriere was shot away.
It was this crisis of the afftur that excited so much
admiration among the British officers. They ima-
gined, that it was in the power of Capt. Hull, to
choose whether he would tack, and lie across the
stern of his adversary, so as to rake her with com-
parative impunity; — or to shoot along side, and
thus give his antagonist an opportunity to defend
herself. The Constitution had, as yet, sustained
very little damage, and it was obviously the inten-
tion of her brave commander, not to give his fire,
till he could come to close quarters. The British
officers considered it as giving also to the Guerriere,
an opportunity of defending herself. "It was the
noblest thing (added a gentleman with whom I was
conversing,) that was ever done in a naval con-
flict." — The compliment thus paid to the ma^nu

406 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND ((UEBEG.

'I
I

H i

y '

\ IN:'

nimity of Capt. Hull, however gratifying to an
American, must not be admitted, without some
qualification — whatever might have been the im-
pressions of the British officers, the opinion of na-
val men of the first eminence in this country, is,
that Capt. Hull chose the position, best fitted to
accomplish his object, and that in no part of this
conflict, did he give eveti a momentary advantage
to his enemy. The result of this battle is well
known — the ships continued fighting, at close quar-
ters, till the Constitution, attempting to lay the
Guerriere aboard on the larboard bow, shot a head
and crossed her bows, when her main and mizen-
mast fell, and she struck her colours.*

A gentleman at Montreal, mentioned to us, that a
public dinner was given at Terrebonne, a small
town a little way below Montreal, to Commodore

* Upon preparing the former edition of this work, my im*
pressions coincided with those of the British officers — but a more
minute examination since, of the circumstances of the action,
(with the aid of the opinions of some of the ablest naval men in
this country,) has induced me to ado(it a different opinion. I
understand, that the speedy fall of the masts of the Guerriere
was the effect of marksminshipf and not an accidental result of
random firing. The crew of the Guerriere appear to have been,
in some measure, disconcerted, by their previous efforts in wear-
ing so often, and in firing so many broadsides, and by the
singularly cool and undaunted manner in which the Constitution
bore down upon them. It is a fact that they fired badly, both as
to rapidity and direction, and often did nut even run their ^uns
out of their port holes, but tore tboir own wooden walls with
their own discharges. — 1824.

rEBBO.

ang to an
liout some
;n the im-
nion of na-
oimtry, is,
st fitted to
•art of this
advantage
tie is well
close quar-
to lay the
shot H head
and mizen-

to us, that a
me, a small
Commodore

work, my im-
rs — but a more
I of the action,
st naval men in
ent opinion. I

the Guerriere
dental result of
arte have been,

efforts in wear-
es, and by the
Lhe Constitution
d badly, both as
I run their ^'uns
odea walls with

TOUR BBTWCEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 407

Barclay, after his signal defeat by Commodore Per-
ry on Lake Erie. Barclay, who was sadly cut to
pieces by wounds, of which he was hardly recover-
ed, and his remaining arm (for he had lost the oth-
er before,) being suspended in a sling, gave as a
volunteer toast, "Commodore Perry — the brave
and humane enemy." Commodore Barclay then
entered into a detailed account of Perrv's treatment
of himself, and of the other wounded and prisoners,
who fell into his hands; and in narrating the story,
he became himself so deeply affected, that the tears
flowed copiously down his cheeks. The audience
were scarcely less moved; and how could it be
otherwise, when the speaker, who, but a few weeks
before, had, without dismay, faced the tremendous
cannonade of his enemy, could not now, without
tears of admiration and gratitude, relate his deeds
of kindness to himself and his companions, when
suffering under wounds and defeat. O! this was a
nobler triumph for Perry, than the victory which
God granted to his arms!

Scarcely had we been gratified by the above
anecdote, when the New-York newspapers, which,
in our parlour at Montreal, we were cheerfully pe-
ru^'ing, informed us, that the brave, magnanimous,
and gentle Perry, had fallen — not in battle on the
water, but by a fever, in a foreign land. The news
would have been sufficiently painful at home, but

. ■ 1

(

'td

At-

. t

408 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC.

among strangers, and those who were so recently
our public enemies, it gave us a severe shock : we
not only felt that it was a public loss, but we nei-
ther could realize, nor wished to do so, that it was
not our own private bereavement. Few men of
his age, have done more to serve and honour their
country than Perry, although we must still regret
that he gave his saitction to duelling.

After a rapid sail across the lake, and seeing the
spot where the Phoenix was burnt, and, at a greater
distance, the ror.ky channel through which General
Arnold in 1776, escaped the pursuit of the British
fleet, we arrived, early in the evening, at Burling-
ton, where the carriage was in waiting to receive us.

Bofore leaving the steam-boat Congress, I will
remark, that, under the auspices of her present
commander, the younger Captain Sherman, who
also commanded the Phoenix when she was de-
stroyed, vigorous measures have been adopted to
prevent a recurrence of a similar accident, and that
we were much pleased with his management of the
boat.

UKBEC.

TOUR BETWEEN HATITFORD AND ^UEISEC. 409

JO recently
shock : we
t)ut we nei-
, that it was
\»w men of
lonour their
still regret

d seeing the
at a greater
[lich General
f the British
, at Burling-
to receive us.

ngress

1 will

her present
herman, who

she was de-
in adopted to
dent, and that
gement of the

BURLINGTON, IN VERMONT, TO HANOVER, IN NEW-
HAMPSHIRE, 84 MILES.

We were on the road three days, and, as it is
not remarkably interesting, except for its wild Al-
pine scenery, I shall give but a sketch of it.

Burlington is one of the most beautiful villages in
New-England. It stands on a bay, of the same
name, is a port of entry, and has a population of
probably nearly two thousand. Rising rapidly
from the lake, and occupying the declivity and top
of a high hill — abounding with elegant houses —
generally large, and painted white — having several
handsome public buildings, and (the most conspic-
uous and commanding of them all,) a college, situa-
ted on the most elevated ground, three hundred and
thirty feet above the surface of the water; the im-
pressions which it makes on a stranger, are very
agreeable, and the more so, as it is scarcely forty
years since this region was a wilderness. Its build-
ings are, a court house, a jail, an academy, a col-
lege, two handsome houses of public worship, one
hundred and sixty dwelling-houses, and forty-three
stores, oflices, and mechanics' shops. It is the
most commercial place on the lake.*

The college editice, is a brick building, one hun-
dred and sixty feet long, from forty five to seventy-
five wide, and four stones high. This institution

♦ Worcester's Gazetteer.
36*

410 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND (QUEBEC.

was founded in 1791| under the appellation of the
University of Vermont. The building is commo-
dious; it contains about fifty private room?, and
good public apartments. This edifice stands in a
most delightful situation, and from the top of it, to
which I ascended, there is a grand and extensive
prospect, although, in the present instance, it was
obscured by a fog. The number of students was
stated to me, by one of the tutors, to be from thirty
to forty.* It is well known that, in the Vermont
republic of letters, ther3 is a divisum imperium, and
that the two rival institutions of Middlebury and
Burlington, have long contended for pre-eminence.

It doi-'s not become a stranger to make any other
remark, than that, in a state of no greater popula-
tion, the united eiForts of all the friends of ic" ^inn;
are not more than sufheient to sustain one i. n.-u-
tion, as it ought to be supported; it is to be hoped
therefore, that Vermont may, in due time, combine
all her efforts, and blend her two institutions into
one.

Burlington college has a library of about eight or
nine hundred volumes, and a small apparatus. It
is but just recovering from a state of partial disor-
ganization, produced by the late war, when, for a
season, the building was occupied by troops of the
United Slates, and Mars put the muses to flight.
The concession, however, it was understood, wan

* The number in Oct. 1833, was 63 claiiical, and 65 medical
atudanti.

I^VEBEC.

ition of the
g is commo-
room?, and
stands in a
top of it, to
id extensive
ance, it was
students was
e from thirty
he Vermont
nperiunif and
dlebury and
•e-eminence.
ke any other
later popula-
Is of U

•\}rttr

1 one i, <i. u
to be hoped
me, combine
titutions into

bout eight or
)paratus. It
)artial disor-
when, for a
troops of the
scs to flight,
erstood, wan

, and 65 medical

TOUR BBTWEBrf HARTFORD AND (tUEBEC. 411

not compulsory, and was handsom'.'ly paid for by
the general government. The faculty, when full,
consists of a President, five professors, and two tu-
tors. At present, there is a Presidejit,* one pro-
fessor, and, I believe, two tutors, who constitute the
actual faculty of the institution.

It is worth a journey across the green mountains,
which occupy almost the entire breadth o( Ver-
mont, and from which the state derives its name, to
see the grand views which they present.

There is in fact, a succession of mountains, one,
two, three, and four thousand feet high ; not here
and there a single peak, but a vast billowy ocean,
swelled into innumerable pointed waves, and bold
ridges, and scooped into deep hollows.

There were but few precipices of naked rock ;
most of the sides of the mountains were in full for-
est, and the varied hues of the leaves of the maple
and oak, now beginning to receive the tirst indu-
ence of frost, were (inely contrasted with the bright
evergreens.

According to the barometrical measurement of
Captain Partridge, the Camel^ Rump, twenty miles
cast by south from Burlington, is about four thou-
sandf feet high, and many others approach this ele-
vation.

• The Rev. Dr. Austin— now (1824,) Rer. Daniel Ha!>kel and
six professurs, including lour in the metlicHl de^hrtment.

t Three thousand Tour hundred.— WorcMter^a Gaxetleer.

-/ »«»w.

I 1

• 1

412 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC.

The day was somewhat obscured by rain, mist,
and clouds, which, while they did not screen the
mountains from our view, addrd a gloomy gran-
deur to the scene, and seemed the appropriate dra-
pery of such Alpine regions.

Most of the country is still unsubdued by the
plough. Innumerable stumps, the remains of the
pristine forest, deform the fields — pines, and other
trees, girdled, dry, and blasted, by summer's heat,
and winter's cold — scorched and blackened, by
tire, or piled in confusion, on fields, cleared, half
by the axe, and half by burning — numerous log
houses, of a rude construction, and incomparably
inferior to the snug cottages of the Canadian peas-
antry—all these, and many other objects, indicate
a country, in some parts at least, imperfectly sub-
dued by man

Along the Onion river, however, and its branch-
es, we found much clear, good land ; on the sides
of the mountains, many fields fit for pasturage, and,
almost every where, fine cattle and sheep, but very
little ploughed land ; every few miles also, we came
to good houses, and a few villages, occurred on the
journey.

At Montpelier, in a low valley, forty miles from
the lake, we found the legislature of Vermont con-
Teited.

Montpelier is a small, and rather neat village, of
about one hundred fiuoilii's \ the townrhip. in which
it ib fiituated, contams nearly two thousand people;

EfiEC.

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD ANU qUEBKC. 413

I '

ain, mist,
i:reeii the
my gran-
>riate dra-

d by the
ns of the
and other
er's heat,
cened, by
ared, half
icrous log
omparably
dian peas-
s, indicate
fectly sub-
its branch-
I the sides
irage, and,
p, but very
[>, we came
red on the

miles from
rmont con-
village, of
p. in which
ud people ;

but this place is so secluded, that it seems as if the
government had sought retirement, more than pub-
licity, in fixing itself here. It is probable, howev-
er, that it was rather a regard to a central position,
as this place is only ten miles from the centre of
the State.

At a little village, where we attended public wor-
ship, in a very stormy day, we found a very thin
congregation, but, in a new house, of considerable
size, and much ornamented within, althi>ugh, in
what would, perhaps, be by some, esteemed an erro-
neous taste, it was, however, honourable to the
public spirit of the vicinity.

We were much impressed in Canada, with the
devout appearance of the Catholics in their reli-
gious assemblies, and cannot but think, that in this
respect, they have the advantage, not only of most of
the Protestant congregations, in which we have been
present during our journey, but also of the greater
part of those, with which we have been, elsewhere,
conversant, in Protestant countries.

The Canadian Catholic seemsj at least, to be de-
vout, while, in our protestant assemblies, how often
do we see, if not levity, at least vacancy, languor,
and apathy, and how few appear to be, really in ear-
nest. If we say that the Catholic is so in appear-
ance only^ he may reply, with a force which it will
not be easy to obviate, that there is no reason what-
ever to infer the reality ^ where there is not so much
as the external decorum of worship.

■I

istt

■■■ i

414 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND (QUEBEC.

The roads were good through our whole journey
to Hanover, except the effects of recent rains, and
considering the mountainous nature of the country.

Wherever practicable, they have followed the riv-
er courses along the alluvial bottoms, and, where
they have wound around the hills, it is done with
great skill and judgment. Very frequently, we rode
for miles, on precipices, where the descent was, for
a great many yards down, almost perfectly abrupt,
and a slight deviation would have been fatal.

When we arrived at the height of land, which
was about sixty miles from the lake, the streams,
now tending towards the Connecticut, indicated our
course, and, for six or seven miles, we descended
with great rapidity, the carriage almost constantly
urging the horses forward, and, at last, we found
lodgings in the beautiful valleyof Chelsea, complete-
ly environed by mountains, which, being free from
wood, and prettily dotted, here and there, with
flocks of sheep, reminded me powerfully of the
Derbyshire scenery.

The village was very neat, with one of the best
inns which we had seen ; we were received with
the kindness of a home, and with almost all its com-
forts.

'I'he next day, (October 18th,) we arrived at
Hanover, in New-Hampbhire, having crossed the

•\

CREC.

TOUR BETWEEN HAUTFORD AND QUEBEC. 415

le journey
rains, and
e country,
ed the riv-
nd, where
done with
ly, we rode
nt was, for
]y abrupt,
tal.

nd, which
e streams,
licated our
descended
constantly
we found
, complete-
free from
here, with
illy of the

if the best
eived with
ill its corn-
arrived at
rossed the

Connecticut river, from the handsome town of Nor-
wich,* on a bridge.

GEOLOGY.

The geology of the region over which we had
passed, is simple and grand. About seven miles
castof the lake, the primitive country begins, and
the fixed rocks, run un.^ in immense ledges, north-
east, and south-west, often vertical, or hii;hly in-
clined in their position, and with a dip generally to
the east, are principally mica slate, gneiss, clay
slate, and chlorite slate. Mica slate is, far, the
most abundant. In some of these schistose rocks,

hornblende prevails, but I observed no granite in
place. Granite, however, in loose rolled pieces,

some of them weighing many tons, prevails for the
last forty miles ; there is enough to build several cit-
ies; it is very handsome, has a fine grain, the feldspar
is white, the quartz grey, and the mica black, and it
is used along the road as a building stone; but we
can discern no source whence it was derived, nor
could 1 learn that there were any Jixed rocks of the
kind in this region.

I am informed that the famous Chelmsford gran-
ite so much used in Boston, as a building stone,
and which this Vermont granite strongly resemblesi

• Now celebrated as the seat of Captain Partridge's very useful
and flourishing military and classicul academy, the building for
which, WM in g ood progress at the time of my journey. 1824.

l/l

416 TOUR BETWEKN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC.

is found loose, like this, and that no quarry of it is
known.

In Vermont, these masses of granite have every
appearance of having been brought down from more
elevated regions, for they are observed in deep val-
lies, and on the banks, and in the beds of water
courses, and on the declivities, and even high up on
the sides of mountains. But they are rolled and
rounded ; most of them approach the globular
form, and all have their angles and edges worn
away. Was this done in the primitive chaotic
ocean, which alone can afford time for such an
agency, and may they not even have been trans-
ported from a distant region, and scattered over a
country to which they are strangers ?

I 'I

HANOVER.

Oct, 18. — This neat village, of about sixty hous-
es, is an agreeable object to a traveller. It is built
principally upon a small hollow square, which
is a beautiful jjreen. Most of the houses are very
good, and some are large and handsome. ^J'he great-
er part are painted white, and have that lively ap-
pearance, so common in the villages of New-Eng-
land.

<iVEB£G.

uarry of it is

have every
n from more

in deep val-
)eds of water
n high up on
e rolled and
the globular

edges worn
itive chaotic
for such an

been trans-
tered over a

t sixty hous-
'• It is built
uare, which
uses are very
. The great-
at lively ap-
r New-Eng-

TOUR BETWEE.V HARTFORD AXD Q,UEbEC. 417

DARTMOUIH COLLEGE.

This well known, and highly respectable and use-
ful insiituiinn, founded in 1769, by rcyal charter,
occUiiies one side of the square. The principal
building which is of wood, is one hundred and Hfty
feet by fifty, and three stories high ; it is painted
white. Besides thirty four private rooms for the
stud«!nts, it contains all the public rooms, except
those for the medical lectures, and the chiipel. —
The latter is asmal plain building, of wood, stand-
ing in the jiosit'onofa wing to the college. The
medical lectures are given in a separate edifice, built
of brick, a little out of the square, and devoted en-
tirely to medical purposes. The building is not
large, hut sufficient for a school of fifty or sixty pu-
pils who usually assemble here during the season
of the lectures, which continues twelve weeks, from
the first Wednesday of October. The building
would receive more, so far as its public rooms are
concerned. The anatomical museum is small.

The number of iiiedical professors is, at present,
three. There is th" same number* in the academi-
cal establishment, who, with the pre5ident,f and two
tutors, constitute the faculty. The number of stu-
dents, at present, is about one hundred and fifty, and

* If I amcorrortly informeil, one other professorship is at pres-
ent vacant.

t A gust, U)20 — This institution h;»s recently beea deprived,
l)y deati<,of its excellent hciul, President HrowQ.

k i

418 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC.

. f

since the termination of the recent contest, by which
the old college has been confirmed in its powers, it
appears to be flourishing more than before. During
that contest, and while the buildings were in posses-
sion of the other parly, it is said that they were con-
siderably injured : they are not now in the best
state of repair, although it was stated that one thou-
sand dollars had been expended upon them, since
their restoration to their present possessors.

The library contains about four thousand vol-
umes. The apparatus of this institution is not the
most extensive, but is competent to the most im-
portant purposes of instruction. There are two
libraries, of about two thousand volumes each, be-
longing to private societies among the students.

There is a separate building for commons, but,
at present, none are maintained ; the students
board in the village, and many of them occupy
apartments in it. I was informed that it is op-
tional with them to have rooms in college, or out ;
but their rooms are, in both cases, visited by the
faculty, and, owing, without doubt, to the smaliness
of the place, no inconvenience is experienced from
the fact, that a part of them are in town."*^

;^l i,

I i

* It is UD(]erstood that this InstilutioD has flourished, and con-
tinues to do so, under the Presidency of the Rev. Mr. Tyler ; but
I have no document at hand, from which to state the number of
the students, or of the faculty. — 18S4.

■v.

qUBBEC.

2st, by which
ts powers, it
ore. During
re in posses*
iy were con-
in the best
at one thou-
them, since
isors.

lousand vol-
on is not the
le most im-
cre are two
es each, be-
students.
mmons, but,
he students
lem occupy
lat it is op-
ege, or out ;
sited by the
^e smaliness
ienced from

i?he(], and con*
Mr. Tyler; but
the number of

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 419

RIDE DOWN CONNECTICUT RIVER.

Oct. 19. — We passed down the New-Hampshire
side of the river, eighteen miles, and then crossed
into Vermont, at the beautiful town of Windsor,
containing two thousand seven hundred fifty-seven
inhabitants.^

There was nothing particularly interesting in the
intervening country. Windsor is built upon two
principal streets, parallel to each other, and to the
river, and, in the lower street, shews something of
the bustle of business ; the upper street is very
quiet, and both are ornamented by very handsome
houses, many of them of brick, giTing on oir of dig-
nity and elegance to a small town. There are also
two handsome churches, a court-house, an acade-
my, and a state's prison.

The town has a magnificent back ground, in the
high mountain Ascutney, measusing three thousand
three hundred and twenty feet above the sea, and
two thousand nine hundred and three, above the
surface of the river.f The form of the mountain is
handsome, and presents naked rocks at its summit.

From Windsor, we passed down the Vermont
side of the river, to Charlestown, where we again
crossed into New- Hampshire.

♦ Worcester's Gazetteer.

t According to Captain Partridge's measurement.

r i-

420 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND CtUEBEC.

We saw, on our ride, the establisment of Mr.
Jarvis, formerly a consul abroad. He has a very
extensive farm, and an entire village, named Weth-
ersfieid, is owned by him, and occupied by his ten-
ants. We passed the night at Charlestown.

This is another village remarkable for beauty.
It is built upon one street, which is very wide, and,
for nearly a mile, the houses are placed at distan-
ces, convenient both for neighborhood and accom-
modation.

Here, as at Windsor, a large proportion are very
handsome, and there is an extreme degree of neat-
ness in the fitiids, gardens, and door yards. The
verdure being sliil tine, notwithstanding the period
of the year, was charmingly contrasted with the
brilliant white of the houses.

From Hanover to this place, the river Connecti-
cut flows in a narrow channel, in most places so
confined by very high ground, and sometimes by
mountains, that it seems to run in the only possible
place, and the channel appears as if it had been
cut by art, and laid with exquisite skill, through an
an almost impervious country. Rarely do the pre-
cipitous banks retire, so as to leave any meadows,
or flat lands upon the border, and the country ap-
pears not remarkably fertile. The pines still oc-
cupy a considerable portion of it, but most of the
large ones are cut away ; here and there an ancient
tree still raises its head to the winds, attd towers
above its compeers. In many parts of this region,

EBEC.

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 421

lent of Mr*
has a verj
med Weth-
by his ten-
awn.

for beauty.

wide, and,

i at distan-

ind accom-

on are very
ree of neat-
ards. The
the period
;d with the

r Connecti-
t places so
Tietimes by
ily possible
t had been
through an
do the pre-
meadows,
ountry ap-
les still oc-
nost of the
; an ancient
and towers
this region.

very formidable fences are made by pulling up the
stumps of the gigantic pine trees, and arranging
them in a row, with their roots interlocked.

GEOLOGY.

The geology of this district is very simple. At
Hanover, the rocks appear to be a variety of gneiss,
with so large a proportion of hornblende, as to be-
come almost horubler^dc slate; and doubtless, in
some instances, they become decidedly that rock;
distinct veins of crystaiiizea hornblende intersect
the rock, and it abounds in garne'-^ remarkable for
beauty ; their angles are extrei 'e-y well defined —
their surfaces highly poK b; d, and the': color al-
most as fine as that of tl e S^inelle Ruby. I have
seen no such garnets, from the rocks of this coujj-
try.

From Hanover, we pass along in the direction of
the ledges of rocks, which form the hills bounding
the river ; we no longer cross them, as in travelling
over the Green Mountains, and it is not always
easy, in driving rapidly by, or with the opportunity
of only a very h? cy examination, to pronounce con-
fidently on their nature.

This may, however, be said, without hazard, that
they are i\i primitive slaty rocks, generally highly

inclined, or vertical.

36*

4lt

. *r.v-E4' sSS. ;

.. -.-».- ^. -

"f"^

* T

422 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC.

Leaving Charlestown, we passed by its rich and
extensive meadows, commencing just below the
town, and extending nearly to Bellows Falls, a dis*
tance of eight miles. They were still very verdant,
and rich in herds of fine cattle.

BELLOWS FALLS.

This p'Bce is worth visiting, both for its bold and
pictures(|ue scenery, and for the interesting nature
of its mineralogy and geology.

On approaching Bellows Falls from the north,
the traveller is first struck by the elegant appear-
ance of the small village of Rockingham, situated
on the Vermont side of the river, upon ground
pleasantly elevated. A neat church, semi-gothic,
and several seats of gentry, who have clustered
about these falls, are finely contrasted with the
wildness and rudeness of the surrounding scenery.
On the New-Hampshire side, a very high ridge of
mountain rock, I presume five or six hundred feet
above the level of the river, forms its immediate
barrier, there being only just room for a narrow
road between it ai.d the Connecticut. Immediate-
ly at the foot of this frowning and impending moun-
tain, is an elegant establishment, belonging to a
gentleman who seems not to feel what every ob-
lerver must dread, that his house may be crushed
by falling rocks.

■■')

QUEBEC.

Y its rich and
it below the
i Falls, a dis-
very verdant,

r its bold and
resting nature

►m the north,
sgant appear-
lam, situated
upon ground

semi-gothic,
ave clustered
?tcd with the
ding scenery,
high ridge of
hundred feet
its immediate
for a narrow

Immediatc-
nnding moun-
eloiiging to a
lat every ob-
ly be crushed

TOUR BETWEEN HARTPORD AND QUEBEC. 423

Bellows Falls are very much unlike any thing of
the kind which we have seen on our journey. They
are rather a grand and violent rapid than a cataract,
properly so called ; for, in no place that I saw, did
the waterfall perpendicularly for any great distance.
The river is, at this place, very much compressed
between ledges of rocks, and, for nearly a quarter
of a mile, it is hurried on with vast rapidity, and
tumult, and roaring. In the whole, it falls fifty
feet,* before it becomes again placid.

The bridge, which stands immediately over the
falls, and at the most rapid, that is to say, at the
narrowest place, is a handsome object. Its founda*
tion is literally a rock, for it is erected not only
upon the precipices which form the banks, but up-
on the very ledges which interrupt the course of
the river, and rise calmly out of the turbulent scene
that surrounds them. This is said to have been
the earliest bridge erected over the Connecticut,
and the view of the falls from it is very interesting.

The water, which for some way above, comes
rushing over, and among very rugged rocks, arrives
in an extremely agitated state at the bridge, under
which is the grand pass ; for the stream is here
narrowed into the width of apparently twenty or
thirty feet, and rushes through with great rapidity ;
not, however, in the compressed state described

* Worcester'! Gazetteer.

Irv

\'i

^^.

!-»•

4-u

y.#

424 TOUR BBTWEESi HARTFORD AND QUEBEC*

by the apocryphal historian of Connecticut.*
It is all foam, and both immediately above and be-
low the bridge, resembles the most violent breaking
of the waves of the ocean, when dashed upon the
rocks by a furious tempest. A little below the
bridge, the river is again hurried on, between two
salient points of rock, in a place so narrow, that
one may easily toss a stone to the other side ;
the angry surges here struggle through with vast
commotion, and rise, in white crested waves, the
very sight of which makes one's head giddy.

Bellows Falls, as a piece of scenery, are peculiar,
on account of a certain snugness, which marks the
entire collection of mountains, rocks, and river-tor-
rent, and handsome houses, which are all approach-
ed without the slightest inconvenience, and are
comprised within a very small compass. On the
west side there is a canal half a mile long, around
the falls ; it has nine locks.

GEOLOGY AN! IINERALOGT.

The rocks at this pass are sienite, mica slate, and
a peculiar aggregate of mica and feldspar, very
much resembling sienite. The strata run in the
same direction as the great mouutaii rant;es in the
vicinity, only they are very low; the torrent ap-

* Peters : who s tys that (he water ii here so deaae that it «aD-
nnt be pierced by a crowbar.

P I

(lUEBEC.

Connecticut.*
»ove and be-
ent breaking
ed upon the
below the
>etween two
arrow, that
other side ;
h with vast
waves, the
iddy.

ire peculiar,
I marks the
d river-tor-
I approach-
e, and are
s. On the
ng, around

slate, and
par, very
un in the
m^s in the
>rrcnt ap-

that it ••!».

TOUR BETWEEN UARTPORD AND QUEBEC. 425

pears as if it had once broken through, and very
possibly there might, anciently, have been a lake
d'jove this place.

I would strongly recommend a particular exam-
ination of the rocks about Bellows Falls. The few
moments which I had to spend, I occupied in in-
specting the ledges on the Vermont side, and below
the bridge. They appear to be sometimes over-
flowed, for they contain numerous excavations, evi-
dently worn by the water, agitating the pebbles and
stonos, and, as long as the floods last, whirling them
with incessant motion. Numbers of these cavities,
both here and at the bridge, are of considerable di-
mensions; some aro ryiindrical, others are shaped
like cauldrons, and are large enough to serve for
that purpose.

In the rocks alluded to, there are numerous veins,
some of them a foot wide or more. The veins are
quartz or feldspar, or more frequently, they are
proper granite veins. In them I observed violet or
rose coloured mica, and that of a straw yellow;
feldspar resembling the adularia ; garnet; tourma-
lin both the common black schorl, and the Indico-
lite, and talc. In 1oc.*p rocks there was also abun-
dance of tremolite and oi sappar. There can be
little doubt that a few blasts of gunpowder would
uncover fine fresh specimens of these interesting
minerals.

I i ■>iii

if'

) ■

1 I

( i

' 7*

•U

426 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC.

From Bellows Falls, we passed down to Walpole*
This is another handsome village ; some of the
houses are splendid.

Putney, on the Vermont side, presented nothing
particularly interesting.

We reached Brattleboroagh, at evening, and
there passed the night.

In Dummerston I saw a great slate quarry : the
strata were vertical, and the excavation was like a
deep canal, so that j s 1 walked into it, the perpen-
dicular strata formed a perfect wall on both sides,
and I trod on their edges. It was a fine example
of primitive roofing slate; and from this place and

iho vicinity, at Rrottloborough, 6iC» it is CXtcnsively

quarried, and carried down the river.

In speaking of the villages on Connecticut river,
I often use the epithets beautiful, handsome, &c. till
they are in danger of becoming trite. Still I must
repeat them with respect to the eastern^ village of
Brattleborough.

This village is built principally upon one street,
and contains very few houses or shops that are not
an ornament to the place. The street is parallel to
the river, and passes through luxuriant meadows,
spreading into an extensive champaign, bounded
by the Connecticut, which here, for miles, washes
the base of a grand mountain barrier that limits the
yiew on the east. Tiiis view was best seen in re-
trospect, as we rose the hill, at the south end of the

"^ Th« other Tillage 1 did nut see.

t QUEBEC.

'n to Walpole*
some of the

ented nothing

evening, and

e quarry : the
on was like a
t, the perpen-
n both sides,
fine example
his place and
is extensively

lecticut river,

Isome, &c. till

Still 1 must

rn* village of

)n one street,
i that are not
is parallel to
nt meadows,
jn, bounded
liles, washes
)at limits the
seen in re-
h end of the

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 427

town. Thence we saw this mountai'-range, prob-
ably here one thousand"*^ feet high, covered with the
richest drapery of the forest, and stretching away
to the north, while the Connecticut, gently washed
its foot, and the pretty village, with its white houses
and brilliant church, rose in the midst of a rich
meadow.

But, the most interesting object in Brattleborough,
is its venerable pastor^ with whom, at his pleasant
rural abode, we had the honour of an evening inter-
view. At the age of 75, he has recently return-
ed from England, his native country, after a visit of
eighteen months. He had been absent from Eng-
land twenty-five years, and found on returning to
his naiive town, which, (except occasional visits,)
he left sixty- three years since, that but one person
remembered him. Even the monuments of his co-
temporaries in the grave yard, WvVe so moss grown,
that he could not read the inscriptions, and those of
the persons who had died more recently, he did not
know. He found, however, many friends in vari'
ous parts of England, who remembered him with
affection. The country appeared to him greatly
improved, and to exhibit the most decided proofs of
a thriving condition ; but his adopted country he
greatly prefers, and gladly returned to end his days
in it.

The venerable man, at once an instructive and
delightful Mentok, entertained us with many of the

* This ii a conjecture merely : I knovr not ef any measurement.

i in

. i

> ...

428 TOUH BETWEEN HARTFORD AND (),U£BEr. ,

incidents of his tour, the relation of which was en-
livened by the most interesting remarks.

He is \\ke the aged oak, whose boughs are still
adorned with leaves, and whose root is still firm in
the ground, ahhough it has endured the vicissitudes
of many revolving summers and winters.

October, 2U/. — We left Brattleborough in the
morning, and eleven miles below, crossed the bridge
uilo Northfield, in Massachusetts.

Northfield is a neat village, on a wide street situ-
ated on a hill, but the houses are plain ; the place
had, however, an air of comfort and snugness.

fl *

^ GEOLOGY, &c.

In this street, a very interesting change was ob-
served in the geology. Rocks occurred both loose
and in place, composed of fragments : they were of
every size, from a foot or even several feet in diam-
eter, down to small grains. These fragments were
evidently the ruins of primitive rocks ;— entire pie-
ces of gianile, with all its constituent parts distinct;
of gneiss, mica slate, chlorite slate, common sliite,
&c. were interspersed, and the cement which bound
them together, was merely the same materials, re-
duced to a finer state. These rocks are very in-
structive. Coming immediately alter the primitive

tRR

QUEBEC.

rhich was en-
s.

ughs are still
is still firm in
le vicissitudes

rough in the
e6 the bridge

de street situ-
n ; the place

lugness.

mge was ob-
ed both loose
they were of
feet in dinm-
gments were
; — entire pie-
arts distinct ;
inunon sliite,
which bound
naterials, re-
are very in-
he primitive

«ountry. and indeed in close connexion with it and
being composed of fragments of priiuiiive rocks
confusedly jumbled together, they appear to lay
strong claims to a transition chariicter.

Passing down through Ndrthfidd into Montague,
we cauje to extensive ranges of primitive rocks,
chiefly gneiss; but in them occurred gieat beds of
granite, the first that I had seen ht place on oir
whole joiu'ney. Primitive rocks continued to I'le
upper lock of Miller's Falls: the can.il Ik .c. i^ ;Mit
through a coarse conglomerate, coiiiju>scd of Ir.ig-
ments of primitive rocks.

'I'he scenury at this place is hand'^omr ; t'nd at
the confluence of MilKi's Kiver wit'i me Conni cli-
ent, the latter forms a si;re;U bow, and looks like a
lake siuTounded by hi;;h hills.

Several miles below, we came to AFillcr'* Fills.
The river runs nearly north west, and is pi' cipiialed
over the strata, which at this place cros.«, the river,
and form a natural dam. In the middh^ of the riv-
er, the rocks rise so high liiui (hey lorni \x\\ is'aiid,
and the torrent is therefore divided, as at Nia_' la.
Through the whole width, which is one thousand
two hundred feet, there is an artificial dam of tim-
ber, built upon th(^ natural one. The fall thus be-
comes thirty feet, and is very heauiifid in its kind.
It is in fact, a vast mill dam, and is said to be a very
good mi -iature of Niagara. The whole '^cene is a
a fine one, and was so difierent from either of the

f\k

f-^-«4.«*-

1. .<

4.30 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEe.

Other falls that we had seen, that it was an agreea-
ble addition.

The object of damming these falls, is to feed
with water, the canal which is cut around them, and
to render the current for three miles above, less rap-
id. This canal is two miles long, and we rode along
its bank, to its junction with the Connecticut.

The rocks which form the natural dam at Miller's
Falls, are composed of fragments of primitive rocks ;
but j;enerally these fragments are not large, rarely
cxceedin|4 an inch or two in diameter, and general-
ly smaller than that. The strata have an inclination
of forty five degrees, and have every mark of the
earliest class of fragmented rocks. Are they not a
variety of Grey wacke .'* Their direction is nearly
north-east and south-west.

VV^e crossed the Connecticut again, at the place
where, by completing its great bend, it returns to
its usual direction of north and south.

We now arrived in the town of Greenfield, and
on ascending the hill from the river, I saw, for the
first time, in this part of the country, Irap rocks in
place. They here constitute an extensive range,
extremely well characterized, and, (agreeably to
Mr. Hitchcock's excellent account of the geology
of this vicinity,*) form, very nearly^ the northern

* See American Journal of Science, vol. 1.

•'nr

■'^*.'r»* V-

rN-.-t'^-

BEe.

in agreea-

s to feed
them, and
?. less rap-
rode along
icnt.

at Miller's
live rocks ;
rge, rarely
id general-
inclination
irk of the
they not a
I is nearly

t the place
, returns to

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND q,UEBEC. 431

extremity of the great trap ranges, which com-
mence at New-Haven and cross completely both
the States of Massachusetts and Connecticut.*

The fragmented rock8, which in nearly the whole
of this range, lie beneath the trap, I here had the
pleasure of seeing emerge, at a high angle of in-
clination, and at a high elevation, on the side next
to the village of Greenfield.

From the hill in question, we had a fine view of
this village, which stands principally on two inter-
secting streets; has a number of handsome houses,
and, for a country town, an uncommon proportion
of brick buildings. Walpole also has a number,
and Windsor a larger number than either.

Greenfield stands two miles from Connecticut
river, on a high plain, which declines gently to the
west. It has handsome churches, a court-house,
a jail, &c.

enfield, and
;aw, for the
rap rocks in
isive range,
igreeably to
:he geology
he northern

DEEflFIELD.

Just at evening, we drove over to Deerfield, a
distance of three miles, through the most luxuriant
and beautiful country, that we had any where seen
in our whole journey. This country is the fine al-

♦ The same that, in sketching the scenery in the middle region
of Connecticut, wore described early io this volume.

f If --su/e* -

1 ^r

^'1

^ l". 1

432 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC.

luvial region, intersected by the Dceifield river,
and probably formed by it, as the alluvial countries
on rivers generally appear to be. Even now, in
the latter part of October, the grass is most vividly
green, thickly matted, and rich as the shag of vel-
vet. The remains of tlie crops of corn, evinced
also great productiveness, and seemed almost to
realize the fables of the golden ages.

We were comfortably lodged in a good inn, just
in time to visit, before dark, a very interesting an-
tiquity in this town.

lii the early periods of the history of the New-
England colonies. Dierfiold. being for a long course
of years, a frontier town, was very often attacked
by the French and Indians from Canada, and its
inhabitants were frequently slain, or carried into
captivity.

To guard against these attacks, an extensive fort
was establisii'jd, includirtg within its limits, many of
the houses, and forming a place of retreat and of
security for the inhabitants.

In February, 1704, this fort was, by the negli-
gence of the sentinel, surprised and taken, just be-
fore day light, and the inhabitants were aroused
from their slumbers, by the furious attacks of cruel
enemies, upon their defenceless dwellings. Most
of the houses were burnt, and their wretched ten-
ants were either dragged away into captivity, or
slaughterd in their own habitations, or near them.
Men, women, and children, were indiscriminately

\'^-^*\r^

BBEC.

eld river,
coujitries
1 now, in
ost vividly
lag of vel-
i, evinced
almost to

d inn, just
resting an-

the New-
ong course
n attacked
ia, and its
uried into

ensive fort
ls, many of
reat and of

tlie negli-
;n, just be-
ne aroused
ks of cruel
\^», Most
;tched ten-
ptivity, or
lear (hem.
:riminately

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND a^-'EBEr. 433

slain, and parents saw their little ones butchered
before their eyes.

One house still remains, as a painful memento to
posterity. The front door was hnked and hewn
with hatchets, until the savages had cut a hole
through it ; through this hole they fired into the
bouse; this door, which still bears its ancient
wounds, and the hole, (closed only by a board,
tacked on within,) remains now, as the savages left
it, and is a most interesting monument.

Through the windows they also fired, and one
bullet killed the female head of the family, sitting
up in bed, and the mark of that bullet, as well as of
four others, is visible in the room ; in one of the
holes in a joist, another bullet remains to this day.
This family was all killed, or carried into captivity.

In the same attack, the clergyman of the place,
the Rev. John Williams, and his family, shared a
similar fate. Two of the children were killed at
the door, Mrs. Williams, their mother, in the mead-
ows, a little way out of town, and Mr. Williams,
and the rest of the family, were carried prisoners
to Canada.

We saw in the museum, in Deerfield academy,
the pistol which he snapped at the Indians, when
they rushed into his bed room.

Mr. Williams* lived many years after his return,
and I saw his grave, and that of his murdered wife.

* The house of public worship, in which Mr. Williams used to
preach, is still standing in Deerfield.

37*

< I

..^^t— ;.;<*-

..i- Xii k.

434 TOUn BETWEEN HARTFORD AND (QUEBEC.

On the lalttM', i:- v, \ t;j j p.-oper inscription, which 1
regret that 1 omit ' .v. copy.

'i 1' . 1

■)i . '

■< i

^ 1

Deerfield is a plain venerable town, with good
building!?, but not man}' of them are in the modern
style; this circumstance is, however, rather pleas-
ing, than otherwisci

Deerlield extends about a mile on one street; it
has a highly respectable academy, the finest mead-
ows in New-Eniilaiidj and a very interesting ancient
history, upon which 1 have no time to enlarge.

« « « « «

Oct. '22. — We left Deerlield on a fine morning,
and extended our ride thirty-eijiht miles, to Spring-
field. We followed the Deertield mountain — cross-
ed the fatal, bloody (or, as it is now called, muddy,)
brook, where, on the 1 ith of September, 1675,
Captain Lathrop, with almost his \. hole company,
of ninety or aii hundred young men, the flower of
that region, was cut oflfby the Indians, who, to the
number of seven or eight hundred, attacked them
by surprize, wlieu, as is said, most of the party
were cnj.'aged in gathering grapes.

We rode down to the feiry at Sunderland, to ob-
tain a good view of the Sugar Loaf Mountain,
which is so well described by Mr. Hitchcock,* that

* American Jourual of Science.

L §

■ '^D

' \ f. r

V'' ^K

V i

.**!%

J *

^^>:

K^T"

r^-*f*.-J

SBEC.

, which 1

irith good
(! modern
ler pleas-
street; it
L»st mcad-
)g ancient
iige.

morning,
to Spring-
n — cross-
, muddy,)
er, 1675,
company,
flower of
ho, to the
<ed them
he party

nd, to ob-
louiitain,
ick,* that

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND qrEHEC. 435

I have scarcely occasion to remark, (hit il is com-
posed of conglomerate rot:k, and ih.a the njountain
back of It is trap.

We crossed through H.Jifiold, over to fladloy,
and thence inlo No'thaiT»jil«iii. whrtre we di;i(*il. —
It is hardly n; cessiux !«> sa} ai.y lliui^ of these
scenes, wiiich are so iiXiMi .n . ^nA so well known,
that tlieii b' auty is quite pioverb;a).

Halfi ;ld and lladlcy are neat and venerable pla-
ces, and Northampton is one of the tinest inland
towns in America.

The great bends of the river here — the bold
scenery of Mount Holyoke, and Mount Tom, and
the rich and grand landscape, from their summits,
particularly from the former, have been often de-
scribed, and can hardly be exaggerated.

At West Springtic.ld, we called on the venerable
Dr. Lathrop, now almost eighty-ciiiht years oldj
he will complete that age, he informed us, on the
last day of this month. His sight is ahnost extinct,
but his other faculties appear unimpaired. He is
erect and vigorous, walks well, and his features are
not injured; his head is covered with fine white
locks, and his whole appearance is very interesting.
He is recently relieved from public duty by a col-
league ; and, after abont *«ixiy years of the most
useful labors as a preacher, is well entitled to res^;

*•• '

.— . «»

it~^'

W. Till! ^WMfcfc

-'i-- ^:

436 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEflEC.

as a writer of sermons,* he has been excelled bjr
few in this country f

Oct, 2.?. — We passed the last night at Spring-
field, which, in boaufy, hardly yield? to any town
on the river. In the morning, 1 visited the United
States' armory, and was much gratified ; for order,
neatness, and high excellence, in every department
— under the able management of Colonel Lee, it
merits the highest euiogium.

We proceeded through Long Meadow to En-
field, and, at the bridge, on the eastern side, I was
pleased to observe the sand stone rocks, filled with
the remains of vegetables, bituminized and carbon-
ized, and affording one indication, among many, of
a region containing coal. This, and the contiguous
places, should be more attentively examined.

Through Windsor, we proceeded to Hartford,
and, arriving there before evening, almost five
weeks from the time of our departure, found those
in health and prosperity, who were most interesting
to us; and, in the retrospect, perceived much cause
for satisfaction, and still more for gratitude, that, in
travelling nearly twelve hundred miles, not one dis-
aster, nor one serious disappointment, had given us
occasion to regret the undertaking.

* Allusion it here, of course, made to the volumes of sermons,
which ht hat published.

tThis venerable minister of religion died on th<' 31st of De-
romber, 1820, in the ninetieth year of his age. — (1U24.)

i \

.-,^

tTJEHEC*

excelled bjr

t at Spring-
to aiiv to'.vn
1 the United
I ; for onler,
' department
onel Lee, it

dow to En-
;i side, I was
:s, tilled with
and carbon-
mg many, of
e contiguous
tmined.
to Hartford,
almost five
found those
(t interesting
i much cause
tude, that, in
, not one dis-
had given us

mes of sermons.

thf 31st of D«?-
[1U24.)

TOUK BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEREC. 437

REMARK.

I have said very little of the public houses and
accommodations on the journey. Should this be
thought a deficiency, it is easily supplied ; for, we
found them, almost without exception, so comfort-
able, quiet and agreeable, that we had neither oc-
casion nor inclination to tind fault.

Groat civility, and a disposition to please their
guests, were generally conspicuous at ti.e inns;
almost every where, when we wished it, we found
a private parlour and a separate table, and rarely,
did we hear any profane or coarse language, or
observe any rude and boisterous deportment.

% I

*->a^

ADDExNDA.

W i

I '

»'•■

',*

I. Historical Notices respecting the vicinity of the.
Lakes George and Chaynplain, and the Head Wa-
ters of the Hudson*

The following notices, received from a respect-
ed friend, came to hand too late for insertion in
their proper places, in the body of the hook. Be-
lievinjr, however, that they may afford useful hints
to travellers, I insert them here. A few things
mentioned in this communication, will be found
to be nearly in common with some passages in the
book, but 1 have, notwithstanding, inserted the
whole.

Between Glen's Falls and Lake George, and
about five miles from the latter place, where an
old French road passes, there is a rock of about
three tons in weight, on which the Indians, during
the French war, (as it i< called,) burnt their pris-
oners. The ro( k is split into three pieces, by fire.

Four miles from Fort George, during the Revo-
lutionary War, Colonel Warner, (celebrated in
Vermont.) Major Hopkins and Lieutenant Coon,
were shot at by Indians fiom belnrid a rock, vvlun
goinji from that foit to Fort Edward. The two last
were killed. 1 saw the place where their hones
were dug up about the year I8I0, \Viirner and
his horse were wounded. He rode olf; but his

icinity of tht.
\e Head JV^.-

m a respect-
insertion in
book. Be-
useful hints
\ few things
ill be found
ssages in the
inserted the

George, and
e, where an
ock of about
iians, during
nt their pris-
eces, by fire.
ig the Revo-
elc'brated in
enant Coon,
1 rock, when
Tho two la»it
I Ihfir hones
^Vilnlo^ and
olf; but his

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND QUEBEC. 439

horse failing, he mounted another, tliat had been
rode b'' one of his companions and escaped. —
Tht' wounded horse, after following liim to Glen's
Falls, fell down dead.

French Mountain is to the right as you go to
Lake George, and about four miles from it. B.iron
Dicnkau, with two thousand three hundred iii>in,
la:ided at the head of South Bay, with a \iew to
take Fort Edward. When he approached Sandy
Hill, he gave up the expediiion, and turned by
French Mountain, (which is insulated from all
others by Dunham's Bay.) in order to take Fort
William Hen";. Here ho met and defeated a large
detachment from that place, two and an half miles
from it, and threw the killed into Bioody Pond,—
He was afterwards repulsed. See Mante's Histo-
ry of the war.

One mile south of Fort George, you pass by
Gage's Hill, on the right, and so called from Colo-
nel Gage of the Provincials, being defeated here
with considerable loss by the French.

About a mile from Lake George, I saw ancient
lines of defence, for a covering army : ditches and
cellars on commanding ground. A little further on
to the right, and close to the Lake, arc the ditclies,
ramparts, &c. of old Fort William Henry, and to
the left, the plain where the massacre took place,
after the fort was surrendered to iMontcalm.

„u

h r+1

I/'

I )

440 TOUR HETWEE.V HARTFORD AND QUEBEC.

Frenchman's Point, s( venf**en miles from the
head of \j;\ko Gcofge, derives itf names from a de-
fea»' of the French during the war of 1750.

Sal)ba(h-Day Point is six miles from Ticondero-
ga, and is so ealled from a massacre on thit day
b} the Indians, after a battle. Here are the re-
mains of two old buildings, or forts, judging from
the excavaiions. Rogers' Rock is on the west side
of the Lake, and four miles from its foot. Here
the Lake narrows. It is named from a tradition
which prevails, that the famous parlizan Maior
Roarers ran down it. in order to avoid the close
pursuit of the Indians, and (tFecterl his escape on
the Lake by skates. This place .itfords a line titid
for mineralogical investigation, and there is, near
it, a den of rattlesnakes.

On the cast side of Lake George is Mount Defi-
ance, a high mountain, celebrated for Burgoyne's
drawing up his cannon th<^re, and by that means he
overlooked Ticonderoga, and drove our army from
thr fort. Ho landed one mile and a half above the
ferry, on Lake Champlain. on the west side, and
if he had taken the route of Lake George, his
chaiice of success would have been much ! iter.

The Old French lines at Ticond(;roga e\hibii a
strong work, extending f'-om Lake Champlain to
the outlet of Lake George, and face the north.

Buigoyne built a blockhouse on Mount Detiance.

QUEBEC.

iles from the
u's from a de-

1750.
m Ticondero-

OM tint day
3 are the re-
judging from
the west side

foot. Here
>m a tradition
rlizan Maior
old the close
his escape on
•ds a fine fit id
there is, near

Mount Doii-
r liurgo} tie's
hat means he
ur army from
a If above the
est side, and

George, his
much '- Iter.
o^a eshibii a
Jhamplain to
le norlh.

nt Defiance.

*,'

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND Q,U£BEC. 44J

A mile south of Fort Ann, on the east side of the
road, IS the place where Putnam, after being cap-
tured by the Indians and French, was tied up for
burning, and when about to perish, he was relieved
by a French officer, who, it is said, believed him
to be a free mason.

Fort Ann was a pickctted work, and covered
about an acre of ground. It is situated just above
the junction of Wood Creek a nd Half-Way Brook.
Wood Creek is navigable to this place, and Bur-
goyne transported his heavy artiUer to it by wa-
ter. A little below the junction of Powlet River
and Wood Creek, near the head of Lake Cham-
plain, on the west side, is Putnam^s Mount, from
wheiiC>> he repulsed a party of Indians, coming up
in canoes. The stump of the tree from which he
tired, is still pointed out.

2. The people called Shakers,

Some members of the society at New-Lcbanou,
and at Watervlist, having objected to certain pas-
age^, m the first edition of this book, I have omitted
them in the present. They were quoted from
Thomas Brown's work, which had been strongly
recommended to me as an authority, nor did I
learn till more than a year after my book was pub-
lished, that the Shakers denied the authenticity ol
Mr. Brown's account of their society. With the
controversy between them, an^. this seceded mem-
ber, and with the question as to the authenticitv

(

-•^i*

^-r

*.'*e

1 I . y.'

442 TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AMD QUEBEC.

and fairness of his account, I have now no con-
cern •, — nor do I mean, even to imply an opinion
on this subject, while I suppress my citations from
him. When 1 cited this work, I fully believed it
to be authentic; — but 1 should consider it as unfair
and unkind, to continue to quote it, after 1 have
been informed that the society of which the author
once was a member, deny his authenticity. Had
my time permitted me to mingle with their commu-
nity, I should have avoided this error, and should
probably have learned that there are works ac-
knowledged by the society, and published with
their knowledge aiid approbation. At the time,
I did not know this fact, but have since been put
by them, in possession of Dunlavy's Manifesto —
Christ's second appearing and the Summary
ViEV/, and 1 am informed by them, that an article
recently published by the Rev. Mr. Benedict, in his
View or all Religions is authentic. Being de-
sirous to do them justice, and neither my health nor
time permitting me to make a digest from their
books, I requested them to prepare for me, a short
article, on their faith and polity, to be inserted in
the present edition of this book. This request was
complied with, by two intelligent members, who
furnished me with a well digested manuscript arti-
cl»". but it arriv cd too late — that pail of the book to
which it belonged, being already printed I thought
of inset titig it, in an appeiulix but, although much
condensed, it was still rather long for a small book

U£BEC.

)w no con-
t an opinion
tations from
believed it
r it as unfair
after 1 have
li the author
ticity. Had
leir commu-
, and should
e works ac-
3lished with
it the time,
ce been put
[anifesto —
»e Summary
at an article
iiedict, in his
Being de-
ly health nor
from their
me, a short
} inserted in
request was
mbers, who
iscript arti-
f the book to
I thought
[ou^h inucii
small book

TOUR BETWEEN HARTFORD AND (QUEBEC. 443

of travels, and it appeared (as the authors intimated
in their letter accompanying it,) better adapted to a
professedly religious, than a common popular
work. I have therefore communcated it to the
Editor of a very respectable Religious Miscellany,*
in which it will obtain an extensive circulation
among a class of readers who will be desirous to
receive correct information respecting a subject so
little understood. 1 trust that this book now con-
tains nothing, in point of fact, whioh the Shakers
will pronounce incorrect — my opinion of their celib-
acy remains unchanged; and I was not willing to
modify the expression of my views on that topic;
there we must remain, amicably, I trust, at variance*

* The Christain Spectator, published at New-Haven ; this
piece will appear in the Number for July, 1824. I gave the
Editor leave to omit a few passages, and to abridge a few
others, (agreeably to the permission of the authors,) care being
taken to preserve the sense, and the order of connexion of the
parts.