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W'-dlbtfinMlithU

eaa & Sons^

13 FANEUIL HALL SQUARE, BOSTON.

DEALERS IN

in 2 B

FiNEGUNS,SHOOTING I FISHING TACKLE

' Oonstantly on hand a large stock of Doable and Single Guns, comprising EVSRT

VAKIETT and make, ma':Ble*loading and breech- k>ading, and ALL articlei pertaining to
them.

ALI^ THE BEST BREECH-I^OADERS,

"Bcotf •," " Werttoy Biohard's." " WeWey's," " OrMnsr's." " Moore's," " W. Fieh-

ard's, of Liverpoo!," " Ellis's," and all others. Also the " Roper,"

sad other American makea

W«i mnifee a gpeeiaUyofW. Jt C. Scott Jt Son'g ** fine Breeeh-X/oad-
inff Double Guns, which for fine, tltgant finish^ and close and stronf shooting powers
mre unsurpasned. Scott's New Book on JBreeeh- Loaders, elegantly bound tit
Morocco^ xent on receipt of 2S cts,

"FINE MUZZLE-LOADERS,"

IN GREAT VARIETY,

FOR SNIPE, PLOVER, & DUCK SHOOTING,

Bored to Shoot Close and Strong.

Persons ordering from a distance, by stating SIZE, BORE, WEIGHT, &e., will be
served as ireli as if present. Fine Breech-Loading or Muzzle-Loading Guns imported to
Older of any make or sice.

"FISHING-TACKLE" IN ALL ITS BRANCHE&

ALSO, FINE

"BRONZE Y^OHT - GUnsrS,"

One-poundsrs, mounted on Blahogany Carriages, complete. Also,

"BUSSEY'S" PATENT GYB0-PI6E0N AND TRAP,

A Substitute for live Birds in Shooting-Matches*

ALSO,

MAYNARirS, WESSON'S, WINCHESTER'S, AND ALL OfllER RIFLES I

CLOSING OUT, A SMALL LOT OF

*«Ballard^ Breech-Loading Rifles at $18.00 — all new and of latest

model — regular price, $38,001

SEND FOR PRIOE-LISTS AND 0IR0ULAR8.

v'^ trnmaim

g EVERY
rtaioJog to

ieH.

If powers
bound in

will be
oned (o

3,"

ABVaiTUffiS « JHE WLDEMESS;

Br REV. WIIXIAM H. H. Mmu,. V

i "XIili boA I. . _^. .. .. . ^^ "^••«-

ON iHE wnre-

A BOOK FOR SPORTSMEN.

JT7LLT ILLUSTRATBD.

I ,

atest

**^'' food of —■««»</»«<

//\^f /

M-

EW ENGLAND:

HANDBOOK FOR TRAVEUEKS.

A OUIDE TO

THE CHIEF CITIES AND POPULAR RESORTS OF NEW ENGLAND,

AND TO ITS SCENERY AND HISTORIC ATTRACTIONS :

WITH THE WESTERN AND NORTHERN BORDERS,

FROM NEW YORK TO QUEBEC.

With Six Mapfi and Uneven Plana.

BOSTON:
JAMES R. OSGOOD AND COMPANY,

L\TK TiCKNOR & Fields, and Fields, Osgood, & Co.

1873.

Entered acconllns to Act of Cong«„, |„ the ye„r IS73,
BY JAMES R. OSGOOD Sz CO.,

ta the omce of the LiU«rian of Co„g,es., at wl.hi„gto„.

University Press: Welch, B.celow, & Co..
Cambridge,

■ !l

PREFACE.

The chief object of the Handbook for New Eii<^lan(l is to
supply the phice of a j,niicle in a hmd where profiissional f^uides
cannot be found, and to assist the traveller in _u[ainin|Lf tlu; grcatt'st
possible aniDunt of pleasure and information while j)assii!^j
lhrou<^di the most anci(!nt and interesting district of An;j:lo-
Saxon America. New England has hitherto Ijeen but casually
treated in l)ooks which cover wider sections of country ; special
localities within its borders have been described with more or
less fidelity in local guide-books ; but the present volume is the
first which has been devoted to its treatment according to the
most approved principles of the European works of similar
])ur[)ose and character. The Han(ll)ook is designed to enable
travellers to visit all or any of the notabi:; places in New
England, with economy of mon(\y, time, and temper, by giving
lists of the hotels with their prices, descriptions of the various
routes by land and water, and maps and plans of the principal
cities. The letter-press contains epitcmies of the histories of the
cdd coast and border towns, statements of the principal scenic
attractions, descriptions of the art and an hitecture of the cities,
biographical sketches in connection with the birthplaces of
eminent men, and statistics of the chief industi'ies of the includti I
States. The half-forfjotten but worthy and heroic records of the
early colonial era and the French and Indian wars have received
special attention in connection with the localities rendered classic
in those remote days, while numerous Indian legends will be
found in various places. The operations of the Wars of the
Revolution and of 1812 (so far as they affected this section of
the Republic) have been carefully studied and localized, and the
ri^e of the great modern manufacturing cities has been traced

I Ov^o^

PKEFACE.

and recorded. The I'uinous >summer-rcsorts — among the in<nin-
taiiiH and by the sea — with whiili N(!\v England abounds, and
uhicli are thronged ])y visitors from all parts of the country,
havt! JM'cn described at length in these page.s.

Tlu! ])lan and structure of the book, it^i system c»f treatment
and forms of abbreviation, have been derived from tlu; Kuroiiean
Handbooks of Karl Baedeker. The typograjdiy, binding, and
system of city ])Ians also resemble those of Baedeker, and hence
the grand desiderata of comi)actnesa and iiortability, ^vhil•h
have made his works the most popular in Kurojie, have also been
attained in the ])resent volume. Nearly all the facts concerning
the routes, hotels, and scenic attractions have l)een framed or
veiified from the Editor's personal experience, after fifteen
months of almost incessant trav(!lling for tliis express pur[)ose.
But ijifallibility is impossible in a vork of this nature, especially
amid the rapid changes which are ever going on in America, and
hence the Editor would Le grateful for any bond fide coriec-
tions or suggestions with which either travellers or residents may
favor him. He would also thankfidly acknowledge his indebted-
ness to the gentlemen who have revised the book in advance of
publication.

The maps and plans of cities have been prepared with the
greatest care, and Avill doubtless prove of material service to all
who may trust to their directions. Th.^y are based on the system
of lettered and numbered s(piares, with figures corresponding to
similar ligures attached to lists of the chief public buildings,
hotels, churches, and notable objects. The most trustw(n'thy
time-tables are found in " Snow's Pathfinder Railway Guide,"
with map, published weekly at Boston (price 15 c). The hotels
indicated by asterisks are those which are believed by the Editor
to be the most comfortable and elegant.

CONTENTS.

PACE

I. Lanouaoe 1

II. MONKY AND TnAVKLI.INO EXPENSES I

III. Railways and STEAMBOATa. TitE Check System .... 1

-IV. Excursions on Foot 2

V.' Hotels 3

VI. RorND-Tiin" Exci'usions 4

VII. Climate and Dress 4

VIII. Miscellaneous Notes 4

NEW ENGLAND.

ROUTE
1

Boston

Environs of Boston ....

1. Boston Harbor. Tlic Route to Nahant

2. Nahant

3. 1\w Route to Hull, Ilinghain, &c. ,

4. Hull

5. Ilinghani. Charlo.stown ,

6. Clielsca. Rcvcro Beach

7. Lexington an<l Concord .

8. Cambridge. Harvard University

9. Mount Auburn .....

10. Brookline

11. Roxbury

Boston to New York by Newport

1. Newport

2. The Approach to New York
Boston to S. Duxbury ...
Boston to Plymouth
Boston to Cape Cod

1. Fairhaven Branch

2. Marshpce

7. Boston to Martha's Vineyard and Nantucket

1. Gayhead

8. Boston to New York by Providence .

1. Providence

2. Providence to Newport. Narragansett Bay

3. Providence to Warren and Bristol .

4.
5.
6.

5
20
20
21
22
23
24
27
28
20
33
35
36
30
10
47
48
51
54
54
QO
58
60
62
03
65
66

C!ONTENTS.

ROUTE

4. Niirraf;;nis<>tt Pier

5. Wal.li Hill I'oint

0. Htniiiiixtim to New York. Block IhIiitkI ....

7. Nf'W Haven

' 9. Boston to Nkw BrDKonn

1. Now Ht dCorrl to Martha's Vincyanl. The Elizalicth Islands

10. PuoVinKNCK TO WoilCKHTKU

Ik. rnOVIOKNCR TO IIaKTKoUD and WATKUHrUY . . . .

12. Nk'v London to Vi-umont

1. H. Vcrrmii to Keen*!

13. Norwich to Nashiu

14. HAYitiiooK to Haiitkoiid

If). Ni;w IIavkn to Noutiiamiton

10. Huit)(ii;rouT to Winstko

17. nuIlXlKPOUT TO TIIK JJrUKSIIIRK IIlLLS

18. S. NollWAI.K TO Damii'iiy

19. Boston to Nr.w Vokk (by Norwicli)

1. Boston to Woonsocket

20. IfAIlTKOHD TO SAMHni'RY AND MlLLF.RTON ....

21. Boston to Ni;w Vf)RK (by Hi>rinKll»'ld)

1. S. Fnuiiiiigliaiii to Lowell mid to Mansfield

2. S. Franiin^'hani to Fitcl:'.iurg

3. Worcester

4. Wprinj^'field

5. Hurt ford .

22. Boston to Ai-nANV, Saratooa, and the West ....

23. Tiir; Beuksiiirr TIii.ls

1. Pittsticld and its Environs

2. Stockbridge

3. N. Adams

21. New York to QiTKnEC. The Connecticut Valley towns .

1. Mount llolyoko

2. Lake Memiihromugog

25. Boston to the Hoosac Tunnel

20. Boston T(^ BrRMNOT;>N (and Montreal)

1. Fitclibm;^' to Pi'terbo?-o'

27. Rutland to Bennington

28. RtTTLAND to Albany

1. Rutland and Waslnngton liinc

29. Boston to Lowell, Concord, and Montreal ....

1. Lowell

• 2. Nashua to Wilton

8. Concord to Clareniont

4. St. Albnns to Richford

5. St. Albans to Rouse's Point

30. Boston to the Franconia Mountains

31. Boston to the White Mountains

1. Rochester to Portland ........

PAor,
. 68

, 70
. 71

. 77

. 00

. 03

. 01
. OT)

, 102
104
10(5
lOS

, 111
114

, 115
117

, 120
120

, 124
125
120
1?7
131
134
141
142
144
140
154
157
160
171
175
170
170
1S4
1S7
187
188
180
102
I'.tU

, 200
207
20:)
213
213

CONTENTS.

vii

PAor

. 08

. 71

77
. 00

92
. 93

. m

102
104

lOS

111
lit
iir.
117
120
120
124
125
120
1?7
131
134
HI
142
144
HO
154
157
160
171
175
179
179
184
187
187
,188
189
92
90
00
07

o;»
]:?
13

novrr.

82. Lake WiNNKrEsAt'KF.R and the Sandwich MorNTA.:NH .

1. Oiitrr" Harlxir to (-'oiiway

2. ( Ixii'orii.'i and OHsipeo

83. The Wiiitf; M.xntains and Nohth Conway

1. Ndftli Conway

2. Noitli Conwny to the Glen Iloune and Gorham

8. Gorlmiii

4. Gorham to tho Notch

6. North Omway to the Notch

6. The Crawfonl IIduho to the Profile Houso

7. Mount WasliinKtoii

84. The Fuanconia Moi'ntainh ani> thij pKMHiEWAHSET Valley

1. Tli(! I'rolllc IIdiiso to Plymouth

2. Watervillt! and Caniptcm

86. Thk Pkhc y Pkaks, Dixville Notch, and Lake Umbaooo .

1. Colcbrook to Umhagog and Rangeley ....

2. Connecticut Lake

30. Boston to Catk Ann

87. Boston to Portland and St. John

1. Pcahody, Lowell, and Lawrence Branches . .

2. Marlileheatl Branch

.S, Essex Branch

4. Anicsbury Branch

5. The Isles of Shoals

6. Portsmouth to Concord

7. Portland and its Environs

8. Casco Bay

38. Boston to Portland .

1. Wakefield to Newburypi/.l

2. Lawrence to Lowell or Manchester ....

3. Dover to Lake Winnepesaukee ......

39. Portland to the White Mountains , . . . " .

1. Lake Sebago ... . .

40. Portland to Quebec and ZIonxkeal

1. Mechanic F.alls to Canton .......

2. Bethel to Lake Umbagog . .

41. Portland to Farmington and the Western Maine Forest

1. Farmington to tlie Rangeley Lakes

42. Portland to the Upper Kennebec

43. Boston or Portland to Moosehead Lake

44. Portland to Rockland

1. Wiscasset to Boothbay

2. Daniariscott4i to Bristol and Pemaquid ....

45. Portland to Mount Desert .

1. Castine

2. Bar Harbor

3. Southwest Harbor

4. Mount Desert to Machiasport .....

PAOR

215

211)
220
221
223
225
227
229
230
233
234
238
241
242
243
244
246
245
248
255
255
267
201
265
267
27C
274
275
276
279
282
384
284
287
287
2S9
291
292
293
295
297
299
299
302
302
304
300
307

Vlll

CONTENTS.

ROUTE

46. Portland '■o Lkwjston and Banoor ....

47. Pohtland to AiKiUsTA AND Banuor

48. Boston to Banuor. The rENonscoT Riveh .

49. BAXr.oR ro St. John

1. Fredcrii'ton, N. B.

1. St. John Bi%'(-r

50. The Ni; v Brunswick Border, Eastport to Madawaska

PAOE

C(>7

, 31.8
319

321

THE WESTERN AND NORTHERN BORDERS OF NEW ENGLAND.

51. New York City 32.'>

1. Ci;nt.-al Park '.'.m

2. Brooklyn . . . , 3.1')

62. New York t ) Aluany. Thk Hud-son River 310

1. The Il't'hlands 343

2. Tlie Catskill Monntain.s .".'7

3. Albany 348

6.\, Albany to Montreal 3.">0

1. Saratoga • . 3.">0

2. Fort Edward to Whitehall or Caldwell 3f)5

3. Lake George 3.'J7

4. Lake Chani])lain 3ul

64. Montreal and its Environs 308

1. Lachine Rapids .......... 372

2. Victoria Bridge 373

55. Montreal to Quebec. The St. Lawrence River . . . 37;*

56. Quebec . . - 375

; 1. Ste. Anne and ChAtcau Richer ....... 384

2. The Saguenay River 885

MAPS.

1. Gcnf^ral Map of New England . in porket.

2. Map of the Environs of Boston : in pocket.

3. Mai> of Nahant.

4. Mail of Lake W^innepesaukee.

5. 5f ap of the White and Francouia Mountains.

6. Map of the Hudson River.

PLANS OF CITIES, &c.

Boston, Hartford, Montreal, New Haven, New York, Newport, Portland,
Providence, Quebec, Central Park, Mount Au'iurn Cemetery.

ABBREVIATIONS.

M. = mile ; hr. = hour ; min. — minute ; ft. — foot or feet ; r. = righL ; 1. = left ;
N. = north ; S. = south ; E. = east ; W. = west.

ASTERISKS
denote object'; deserving of special attention.

^» •<()»«*»

PAr.E
S07
30!)

. 318
319

r.2o

321

825

33!)
840

343
3' 7
343
850
350
3f)5
357

sai

368
372
373
37:1
375
384
385

NEW ENGLAND.

lland.

left:

" Nobis etomum rdiqucnint monnmentum,
Novanglorum inwiuu."

" Nova Anglia" : n Latin poem by Morrdl, 1625.

New England is tho northeastern portion of the United States, and
comprises the States of Maine, New Hampshire, Vermont, Massachusetts,
Connecticut, r.^fl Rhode Island. It is ]»ounded on the S. by tlie Atlantic
Ocean and Long Lsland Sound, OJi the W. by tlie State of New York, on the
N. by the Province of Quebec, and on the E. l)y the province of New Bruns-
wick and the Atlantic Ocean. It lies l)etween the latitudes 41° and 48"
N. and the longitudes 67" and 74° W. from Greenwich, and has an area
of 65,000 square M., with a population of 3,487,924 (census of 1870).
The principal religious sect is the Congregational, which has 190,473
members; the Episcopal Church has 38,093; and the Methodists have
70,000. The Catholics and the Baptists (114,000) are also strong in
numbers, while Unitarianism has here its chief power. A high standard
of education prevails among the people, and is supported by an extensive
school-system an'i '<everal renowned colleges. The New-Englanders have
always been di.sii.iguishe<l for a marked individuality of thought, by
reason of which the most advanced and radical schools of philosophy,
politics, and religion liave arisen or have been dv;veloped here. The
nature of the climate and of the soil has rendered agriculture less
profitable tlian at the West, and the strength of the section has been
foxmd in the establishment and maintenance of vast ma!iufaoturing indus-
tries. The coast ertcnds in a direct line for over 700 M., with many
spacious harbors ; and tlie maritime cities are celebrated for their skilful
seamen and for their large fleets of merchant-ships. This district was
granted by James L to t>e Plymouth Company (in 1606) under the name
of North Virgiina; but Capt. John Smith, having surveyed and mapped
the • oast iu 1614, gave it the name of New England.

Maine

is bounded ru the S. by the Atlantic, on the W. by N. II., on the N. by
Canada, and on the E. by New Brunswick. It is the most northeastern of
the United States, and the largest of the States of New England. It has
an area of 31,766 square M., with a population of 626,915, and a valuation
of $ 223,254,860. It is divided into 16 counties, and has 13 small citie;;,

— --^'^vw**

MAINE.

tlic cliief of which is Portlaiirl, while the capital is Augusta, at the heacl
of ship-navigation on the Kennebec River. The coast of " hunrlred-har-
borccl Maine" is reinarkaMy picturesque, with deep fiords running up
between bold peninsulas, and with archipelagos of beautiful islands resting
in quiet and extensive bays. The direct line of the coast from Kittery
Point to Quoddy Head is 278 M., but the deep curves of the bays and
estuaries give an actual shore-line of nearly 2,500 M, Mt. Desert (60,000
acres) is the largest of the many islands which front the ocean, and Mon-
hegan is the most distant from the mainland. The great rivers Penoh-
.scot, Kennebec, and St. Croix empty into the sea on this coast, and
furnish wide and convenient harbors. Nearly J of the area of Maine i.s
•still covered with primeval forests, and the lumber-trade is the chief
industry of the State. The trees are felled and hauled to the wat*"--
courses during the winter, and in the spring they are united in vast rafts
and floated down to the river cities. In the S. and E. of the great forest
is a broken range of mountains, the loftiest of which is Mt. Katahdin
(5,385 ft. high), -jiy of Maine is covered with water, the i)riiicipal lakes
being Moosehead, Chesuncook, and the Rangeley, Madawaska, and
Schoodic groups.

The Maine coast was first visited by Gosnold in 160L; and in 1607 the
short-lived Sagadahoc colony settled at the mouth of the Kennebec
River. The French colonies at the St. Croix River and Mt. Desert were
but ephemeral, and several other attempts proved equally unsuccessful,
partly owing to the hostility between the claimants of the territory (the
French and English), and the distrust of the Indians for both of them.
The island of Monhegan was settled in 1622, and Saco was founded in
1623. When the Plymouth Company broke up, in 1635, Sir Ferdinando
Gorges received by royal charter the pro^unce of Maine (then first so
called). In 1642 his son founded the city of Gorgeana (York), but in
1651 Mass. absorbed Maine, being sustained by the exigencies of the
times and by the Puritan Parliament of England. After some resistance
on the part of the Maine proprietors, Mnss. bought out their interest, and
thenceforward ruled the riortheni province fo^- nearl^v 170 years with a
linn and beneficial sway. From 1675 until 176') a disastrous succession
of Indian wars ensued, in Avhich every twentieth settler >vas killed or
cajitured and many towns were destroyed. The bombardment of Port-
land (1775) and the naval battle at Castine (1779) were the chief events
during the Revolution, but the coast was badly harried during the "War
of 1812. In 1820 Maine was admitted into the Union as the twenty-
third State.

New Hampshire

is bounded on the S. h Mass., on the W. by Vt., on the N, by the
proviiice of Quebec, and i the E. by Maine and the Atlantic. It has an

If*

T'-V'"^

NEW HAMPSIIIRE VERMONT.

and

area cf 9,280 square M., with a population of 318,300, and a valuation of
$ 162,987,177. It is (Jividert into 10 counties, with 234 towns and 5 cities,
and the capital is Concord, on the Merrimac River. There is an ocean-
front of 18 M., which is boruered by level plains stretching inland, whilo
just off the coast are the remarkable Isles of Shoals, formerly famed for
their fisheries and now a favorite summer-resort. Beyond the sea-shore
plains the country assumes a more rugged and broken appearance, with
numerous isolated summits and hill-ranges which culminate in the Wliitc
Mts., covering over 40 square M. of a picturesque district which is called
*'the Switzerland of America." The lakes of N. H. cover 110,000 acres,
and the most beautiful of their number is Winnepesaukec, which has 69
square M. of extent, and contains 300 islands. The soil of the State is
not fertile, but it has much mineral wealth ; and the climate, though
severe, is' very healthful. There are extensive primeval forests in the N.
(CoiJs County), in whose recesses wolves and bears still are found ; and the
remote lakes and streams afford fine fishing. The Connecticut, Saco, and
Merrimac Rivers have their sources in N. H., and on the water-power
afforded by the latter large manufacturing cities are located. There are
42 national banks, with a capital of $ 5,13.5^000 ; and 54 savings-banks,
with deposits amounting to $ 25,303,235. The manufactures of cotton and
woollen goods, iron and leather, are the cliief mechanical industries, and
centre at the cities of Manchester and Nashua. The press cf the State
consists of 8 daily papers, 36 weeklies, and 6 monthlies.

Tiie N. H. coast was first visited by the Europeans in 1614, and settle-
ments were founded at Dover and Portsmouth about 1323. Tlie district
was for many years under the government of Mass., and was afterwards
ceded to N. Y., while the incessant inroads of the Indians devastated the
frontiers for nearly 80 years. The chief incidents of these wars were the
destruction of Dover (1689), and the battle of Pequawket. In 1741 N. H.
became a royal province, and in 1776 it led the secession from the British
Empire, giving freely of its men and money to the cause of independence.

I the
an

Vermont

is bounded on the S. by Mass., on the W. by N. Y. and Lake Champlain,
on the N. by Canada, and on the E.by N. H. It lias an area of 9,056 M.,
with a population of 330,551, and a valuation of S 142,612,356. It is
divided into 14 counties, and has but 2 small cities, the great majority of
the people being engaged in farming. The centre of the State is trav-
ersed from N. to S. by the Green Mts., whose smootli and rounded smu-
mits form a marked contrast with tlie sharp ])eaks of the White Mts.
The chief of the Groeii Mts. are Mt. Mansfield (4,359 ft.), Camel's Hump
(4,188 ft.), Killington and Pico Peaks, and Mt. Ascutney. The E. slope
is watered by several stieams which flow into the Connecticut River,

Xll

MASSACHUSETTS.

while the W. slope sinks into the broad and fertile i^lains which border
Lake Chaniplain and are traversed by Otter Creek and the Winooski,
Lamoille, and Missisquoi Rivers. The Lakes Memphremagog, Willoughby,
Dunniore, Boniaseen, and St. Catharine are pleasant sununer-resorts, and
the great Lake Chaniplain affords an avenue for an extensive international
commerce, whose chief centre is tlie port of Burlington. The evergreen
forests on the mountains alternate with broad pasture-plains, and the
deciduous groves on the lowlands are interspersed witli tillage-fields of rich
loamy soil, so that Vt. has become the most agricultural o*' the Northern
States, and exceeds all others (proportionally to iier popiUation) in the
proiluction of wool, live stock, maple sugar, butter and cheese, hay, hops,
and potatoes. In 1871 there were made here 8,000 tons of butter, 2,400
tons of cheese, and 4,500 tons of maple-sugar. Extensive quarries of fine
statuary and variegated marble and serpentine have been opened in the S.
counties, end vast quantities of slate have been exported from the same
region.

The first European who saw Vt. was Jacques Cartier, who, in 1535,
looked upon its high ridges from Mount Royal (Montreal). Its coast was
explored by Chaniplain and others in 1609, and prosperous French settle-
ments were made (in Addison) later in the 17th century. In 1724 Mass.
built Fort Dunmier (near the present town of Brattleboro); but the num-
bers and ferocity of the Indians prevented colonization until after the
conquest of Canada (1760). The territory was then partly occupied under
grants from N. H., until it was ceded to N. Y. ; and thereafter ensued a
controversy in which the settlers successfully resisted the authorities of
N. Y. imtil the outbreak of the Revolution, when they proclaimed Ver-
mont ( Verts Monts, or Green Mts. ) an independent State. Congress twice
refused to acknowledge the new State, although its soldiers ("the Green
Mountain Boys ") captured Ticonderoga and Crown Point, and annihilated
the flower of Burgoyne's German auxiliaries at tlie battle of Bennington.
In 1791, after paying New York $30,000 in liquidation of all claims, Vt.
was admitted into the Union (the 14th State), and since that time has
prospered and steadily increased in v.'ealth and population. .-,>.. .

Massachusetts
is bou..ded on the S. by Conn, and R. I., on the W. by N. Y., on the N.
by Vt. and N. H., and on the E. by the Atlantic. It has an area of 7,800
square M., witn 1,457,351 inhabitants, and a valuation of $2,132,148,741.
The soil is not fertile, but considerable crops are gained by careful
cultivation ; and the best land is found in the valleys of the Connecticut
and Housatonic Rivers. There is but little level land in the State, and in
the W. counties the Taconic and Hoosac Ranges of mountains afford great
diversity of scenery. The Connecticut River flows through a garden-lil^e

MASSACHUSETTS.

Xlll

2,400

IS, Vt.
le has

«r

he N.

7,800

^,741.

ireful

jticnt

nd in

great

i-lil\e

valley, with several prosperous towns ; and the Merriniac (in the N. E. )
affords a *'ast water-power to Lowell and Lawrence, and ])asses into the
sea at Newburyport. The climate is severe in the hill-countries, and is
very variable on the coast, — the mean temperature being between 44 °
and 51 °. As far back as 1C55 the annual farm products amounted to over
.9 21 ,000,000, and at that time the State had 2,250,000 apple-trees. Profit-
able beds of iron ore and glass sand have been developed, and the e.\porta-
tion of marble (from Berkshire County) and granite (from Quincy and Cape
Ann) has become a lucrative business. The State has been celebrated for
the nund)er and excellence of its ships, and for the skill and enterprise of
its seamen. Granite, ice, and fish are among the chief articles of export ;
the latter being brought in by the large fishing-fleets of Cape Cod and
Gloucester. The manufacturing interests of the State are of immense
extent and wide variety, and their products for the year 1870 were valued
at $550,000,000, Boots and shoes, cotton goods, woollens, iron, and paper,
are the chief manufactures (named in the order of their importance).
There are 160 savings-banks, with deposits amounting to $163,535,943.
In 1871 the State debt was $ 29,630,364, of which $12,000,000 was for
railroad loans, and $ 16,500,000 represented the unpaid balance of the war
loan.

The prevailing religious sect is the Congregational, the Baptist, Meth-
odist, and Unitarian churches being also strong, while the Roman Catholics
are rapidly attaining gi'eat power and influence. The educational insti-
tutions of the State are admirably airanged and have a high reputation,
their efficiency being assured by the maintenance of four normal schools,
five colleges, and Harvanl University. The militia is kept in a state of
high efficiency and discipline, and is mostly composed of veterans of
the War of 1861 -5. ^' ••::.• ..^ ,..

The coast of Mass. was first visited by the Norwegian mariners Leif and
Thorwald, about the year 1000. After several attempts at colonization,
which were frustrated by the powerful native tribes, the Norsemen aban-
iloncd tlie country (which, from its fniitfulness, they had named Vinland),
In 1497 John and Sebastian Cabot cruised along the coast, and were fol-
lowed by Cortereal, Verrazzani, and Gomez. In 1602 Gosnold explored
the S. E. islands, and planted an ephemeral colony on Cuttyhunk, near
New Bedford. Pring, Chamjjlain, and Weymouth soon after passed along
the coast, while Capt. John Smith, following them in 1614, made a map
of the coast and islands. Dec. 21, 1620, the ship "Mayliower" an-ived
at Plymouth with 102 Pilgrims, who had been driven from England by
religious persecution, and who founded here the first permanent colony in
Mass. Salem was settled in 1628, and Boston in 1630, by Puritan exiles,
and the Atlantic coast and the Connecticut valley were soon dotted with
villages of bold and hardy immigrants.

XIV

CONNECTICUT.

The Peqnot War (1637) and King Philip's War (1075-6) c.insed a fear-
ful loss of lif(! and proi^'rty, and several of the valley towns were utterly
destroyed before the colonial forces could crush the insurgent tribes. In
1689 the jtrovince revolted against the royal authorities, and the country-
})eo|»!e took IJoston and its fortifications and guard -frigat(% and imprisoned
tiie governor (Sir l*>lniund Andros). In 1692 I'lynioiith was united to
Rlassachusc^tts, and thereafter, until the (ron(iuest of Canada in 17(50, the
])nn'ince was foremost in the wars with the French colonies in the N.
Many of her towns were destroyed by Indian raids, and the W. frontier
was nearly depo])ulated; but tiie general prosperity was unchecked, and
■when the British Parliament commenced its unjust ojjpressions, the prov-
ince had 250,000 inhabitants, many of whom were trained veterans of the
Canadian Wars. In face of the royal army which had been moved into
lU)ston, the men of Massachusetts opened corresi)ondences which brought
about a colonial \inion for mutual defence, and enrolled themselves as
minute-men, ready to march against the British troops at a minute's
notice. The battles of Concord and Lexington were followcid by a general
a])pcal to arms; and the siege of Boston, the Battle of Bimker Hill, and
the American occupation of the city came in rapid succession. After
these events the scene of war was transferred to New York an<l the South,
where the Massachus(!tts regiments won high honor, especially in the
victorious campaign against Burgoyne's invading army. In 1780 the State
Constitution was framed, and in 1786 a serious revolt occurred in the W.
counties, caused by the pressure of enormous taxes. This rising (which
■was headed by Daniel Shays) was put down after a few skirmishes. In
tlie War of 1812 the State theoretically confined her exertions to the de-
fence of her own coast, though thousands of her seamen entered the
national navy. Extensive manufacturing interests now rose rapidly into
view, and a network of railroads was stretched across the State. During
tiie War for the Union (1861-5) Massachusetts put forth her utmost
strength, and gave 158,380 men to the armies of the Republic, besides
incurring a war-debt of over 1 50,000,000.

Connectiont

is bounded on the S. by Long Island Sound, on the W. by New York, on
the N. by Mass., and on the E. by R. I. It has an area of 4,730 square
M., with 537,454 inhabitants, and a valuation of $ 532,951,061. There are
8 counties, 160 towns, and 7 cities. The soil is usually rugged and com-
paratively unpro<luctive, although the river- valleys afford some rich lands,
and considerable crops are raised by laborious cultivation. The tobacco-
crop of 1870 amounted to 8,328,798 pounds, and in the same year were
made 6,716,007 pounds of butter and 563,328 tons of hay. "The manu-
factures of the State are more general, multifaiious, and productive tlmn

CONNECTICUT.

•f

those of any otlicr people of similar means," — clocks ami carriages, fire-
ariiis, tin and brittania ware, sewinj^-nuicliiiies, iron and rubber poo<ls
being the chief articles of }»roduction. Thtro are GG savings-banks, ^vith
deposits amounting to S 55,2!)7,705, and many wealthy and pov rful
insurance companies. New Haven has a lucrative West India trade,
while New London has a considerable number of vessels engaged in sealing
and whaiing. The Conn. River is famous for its valuable (isheries, which
have been revived by stocking the stream (18G7-70) with 151,000,000

young shad.

The chief religious sect is the Congregational, antl the Episcopal Church
has more strength here than in any other State (proportionidly to the
])Opulation). There are three colleges, Yale (Cong.), Trinity (Epis. ), and
Wesleyan (Melh.), with 4 schools of theology. The educational interests
of the State are well and elliciently carried on, under the supjuM't of the
great funds derived from the sale of the Western Reserve lands. The
charitable and correctional institutions of the State are remarkable for
their inlluence and efficiency. The ingenuity, enterprise, and individuality
of the men of Conn, have given them an advanced jdace in the mercantile
and political activities of t.ie Republic; and "probably no country of
similar extent has sent abroad .so vast a horde of emigrants in projiortiou
to its population."

The coast and rivers of Conn, were first explored by Adrian Block
and other Dutch mariners (1614-33); the district was in the English
Plymouth Patent of 1G20, and was chartered in 1631. About that tinie
the river Indians were subjugated by the Pequots, and Seguin, their chief,
sent to New York, Plymouth, and Boston for help. In 1633 a small
Dutch colony landed at Hartford; and in the same year a Plymouth vessel
passed up to Windsor, where a settlement was planted. These were
merely trading-posts, but Wethersfield was occupied in 1634, and in 1636
three nomadic churches were led by their pastors tlnough the wiMerness
from Boston to the Coini. River, where they settled at Hartford, Windsor,
and Wethersfield. Say brook was founded and fortitied in 163.5, and in
1637 the first legislature declared war against the Pequot Indians, wlio
were defeated and speedily crushed by the colonial train -bands, aided by
the friendly tribes. In April, 1638, New Haven was settled, and soon
after the other coast-towns were founded. In 1639 a remarkable consti-
tution (which aclaiowledged no higher human power than the people of
Conn.) was adopted, and in 1662 a royal charter was ol)tained. After the
union of the independent colonies of Conn. (Hartfonl) and New Haven, in
1665, the two towns were made send-cai)itals of the province (and State),
and so remained luitil 1873, when Hartford was made the sole capital.
The State stood honorably among the foremost during the Revolution,
although the towns along the coast were pillaged and destroyed by raids
from the Hessian and Tory garrison at New York.

XVI

RHODE ISLAND.

Rhode Island

is boiiiidc'd oil the S. ]ty tl»e Atlantic, on tlu! W, by Conn,, and on the N.
and E. by Mass, It is the sninUcst State in the Union, an<l lias an area
of 1,046 s(iuare M., with 217,'5r):5 inhabitants, and a valuation of .$ 2U6,9(35,-
G4G, There are 5 counties, with 32 towns, and 2 cities. The soil is un-
jinxluctive, and but little fanning is done save on the fertile ])lains of the
Island of Aijuidiieck. The State is nearly cut in two by Narragansett
Bay, wliich runs inland for 30 M. (with a width of 3-12 M.), and contains
several islands, the chief of which is Aijuidiieck (or Rhode Island) on
whose S. end is the famous suninier-resort, Newport. 11 M. S. E. of
Point Judith is Block Island, which pertains to this State. The climate
is mild and ecjuable, from its vicinity to the sea and exposure to the S. ;
and the greater part of the State is a region of low hills or sea-shore plains.
The lU'incipal mechanical industries are at Providence, Pawtucket, Woon-
socket, and Westerly ; and as far back as 1S(J0 the State reported 1,200
manufacturing establishments, with an aggregate capital of $24,380,000,
using annually $24,410,000 worth of raw material, and producing over
S 50,000,000 worth of goods. The 33 savings-banks of the State hold in
dei)osit $30,289,703. 1'he charitable and correctional institutions are
mostly about Providence, where is also the seat of Brown University, a
nourishing school under the care of the Baptist Church, "which is the
l)revailing sect in the State.

Rhode Island was probably colonized by the Norsemen in the 10th and
11th centuries, but was afterwards abandoned for centuries, until the
coining of Verrazzani in 1524. He remained at Aquidneck (which was then
thickly I'opulated by Indians) for two weeks. In 163G Roger Williams,
having been banished from Mass., came down the Seekonk River with 5
eumpanions, and founded a .settlement which he named Providence, in
acknowledgment of " God's merciful providence to him in his distress."
Ill 1638 Wm. Coddiiigton and another party of exiles founded Newport ;
in 1642 a third banished company settled at Warwick ; and in 1643 and
1663 these colonies united under a royal charter. The powerful Narra-
gansett Indians dwelt in Rhode Island, and when King Philip's War
broke out they ravaged all the outlying settlements and killed many of
the colonists. The New England colonies, ignoring the existence of heret-
ical Rhode Island, and rejecting its advice, matched an army across to
tho Narragansett country, and, after a terrific assault, stormed the Indian
stronghold and crushed the tribe. The little province gave freely of her
men and money in the French wars, and sent some of the best troops to
the American siege of Boston. In Dec, 1776, Newport was taken by the
British, who held it for 3 years, but were prevented by the New England
militia from passing farther into '.;he country. In 1861 the men of Rhode
Island were among the first to reach the imperilled national capital.

INTRODUCTION.

I. Language.

The people of New England claim that they speak the English lan-
guage more correctly than it is spoken elsewhere in the world. Be this
as it may, it is certain that this one language is universally used through-
out the six States, and the traveller is delivered from the trouble caused
in Great Britain by its four languages and numerous dialects, or in France
by its three languages and provincial ^j«^n"s. The European tongues are
taught in tlie higli-schools ail over thi country, but the instruction is
purely theoretical, and the number who can talk French, German, or Ital-
ian is very small. Tourists, who wish to travel among the remoter dis-
tricts of New England, should be well acquainted with the language,
which is "the English of Elizabeth," with a few local idioms.

II. Money and Travelling Expenses.

Since the war for the Union (1861 - 65) gold and silver coin has disap-
peared from circulation, and been rei)laced by U. S. Treasury notes and
National Bank bills for values upwards of one dollar, and by fractional
currency issued by the Treasury, of the values of 10, 15, 25, and 50 cts.
Nickel and mixed coins of 1, 2, 3, and 5 cts. value, abound. This paper
currency is at a discount for gold of from 10 to 15 per ct. The cur-
rency of Canada is either coin or paper at a coin value.

It is more expensive to travel in New England than in any part of
Western Europe. The usual charge per day at the best hotels is $ 4 to
$ 4.50, with considerable reductions when a prolonged stay is made at one
place. Tourists who travel slowly through the country and stop at the
less pretentious hotels (which are usually comfortable, and always sale)
may easily limit their expenses to $ 25 or $ 30 per week. Those who fre-
quent hotels of the highest class, and indulge much in carriage-riding,
will find $ 45 to $ 50 per week none too much. At most of the sea-beaches
board can be secured at $ 10 or ^15 per week ; while in the quieter and
less fashionable villages about the mountains, substantial fare may be
found in broad old farm-houses, for $6 to $10 per week.

III. Bailways and Steamboats.

Railway travelling in America is much more comfortable, yet more ex-
pensive and dangerous, than in the Old World. There is but one class of

LNTUODLXTION.

tickets, tlie average faros Leiiig al)out three cts. a mile. On each train is
a smoking-car, easily acceiisible from the other cars, uud fitted with tables
for car<i-i)laying. It is prudent to decline playing with strangers, as
gamblers sometimes practice their arts here, in spite of the watchfulness
of the ollicers of the train. To nearly every through train on the grand
rontes is attached one or more Pullman cars, which are richly carpeted
and curtained, and ])rofusely furnished with sofas, easy-cluurs, tables,
mirrors, and frojited with broad plate glass windows. These cars being
w(!ll balanced and runiang on twelve wheels, glide over the rails with
great ease. By night they are ingeniously changed into sleeping-rooms,
with comfortable beds. The extra fares on the i)alace cars are coUecteil
hymen attached to them; the price of a night's lodging (in which time
one can go from lioston to New York) is §2. The fares by steamboat are
somewhat lower than by rail, and (in case of a niglit passage) include a
sleeping-berth in the lower saloon, but generally tlo not include meals.
A state-room in the up])er cabin costs extra, hut insures better air and
greater comfort and privacy. State-rooms (in the sunnner season) should
be secured in ailvance at the company's olhce in New York, Boston, or
Portland. Great lines of stages still run among the mountains and in the
remote rural districts. Persons travelUng by this way, in pleasant weather,
should try to get a seat on the outside.

The (Jhcck System. — The traveller, having bought a ticket for his des-
tination, shows his heavy baggage (trunks, &c.) to the baggage-master,
who attaches a small numbered brass plate to each i)iece with a leather
thong, and gives to the traveller a check for each piece of baggage, simi-
lar in form and number to that appended to such piece. The railroad
now becomes responsible (within certain limits of weight and value) for
the baggage, which is to be given up only on the presentation of the du-
plicate check which is in tlie traveller's possession. Trunks may be thus
despatched from Boston to Montreal, Boston to Chicago, &c., without
trouble, and if their owner is delayed on the route, they are stored safely
at their destined station until he calls. On presentation of the check at
tlie baggage-room of the station to which the baggage has been sent, it is
given up to the owner, or his hotel porter. The large liotels have coaches
at the railroad stations, on the arrival of through trains, and their porters
will take the duplicate checks, get the trunks and carry them to the hotel.

«»

IV. Excursions on Foot.

It is remarkable that pedestrianism has never been popular in this
country. The case and perfect freedom of this mode of travelling, its
highly beneficial physical effects, the leisure thus afforded in which to
study the beautiful scenery in otherwise remote and inaccessible dis-
tricts, all mark this as one of the most profitable and pleasant modes of

•>

INTKUDUCTION. 3

summer recreation. To walk two hundred iiiiK-s in a fortnight is an easy
thiiit,', and it 'h intinitely more refri'shing tor a man of sedentary habits
tiian the , tuie length of time sjtciit in lying <»n tlu- sands of some luiach,
or iilling in a farm-house among the hills. " For a tour of two or three
weeks, a coui)le of flannel shirts, a pair of worsted stockings, slippers,
and the articles of the toilet, carried in a pouch slung over the shoulder,
will generally be found a suflicitnt ecpiipment, to which a light overcoat
and a stout umbrella may bo adiUsd, Strong and well-tried boots an?
essential to comfort. Heavy and complicated knapsacks should be
avoided; a light ])ouch, or game-bag, is far less irksome, and its position
may bo shifted at pleasure." — Baeukkku, One or two books might be
added to this list, and a reserve of clothing may be sent on in a light valise,
at a trifling cost, to the town which is the ])edestrian's objective point.

It would bo well fur inexperienced walkers to begin at eight to ten
miles a <lay, and gradually increase to sixteen to eighteen miles, or six
hours' walking. During the heats of summer the travelling .shouhl bo
done at early morning and late afternoon, thus spending the hottest part
of the day in coolness and rest. The best time for a i)edestrian tour is
between late September and late October, when the sky is clear and the
air bracing, — the season of the reai)ing of harvests, the rijjening of fruits,
and the splendor of the reddening forests.

Among the most interesting districts in New England for the pedes-
trian, the following may be mentioned: The picturesque valleys, lakes,
and mountains of Berkshire County, Mass.; the valley of the Connecticut
from Springfield to Oreenllold ; the ocean-surrounded arm of sand. Cape
Cod, with its (piaint and salty old villages (Thoreau's " Cape Cod " is the
best guide there) ; the lake region of New Hampshire ; the White and
Franconia Mountains (frequently explored by walking parties from the
colleges during the summer vacation); and in Maine, the romantic Islanci
of Mount Desert. The east bank of the Hudson River, from New York
to Albany, affords a walk of rare interest, anil the west shore of Lake
George presents a short walk through peerless scenery. But the most in-
teresting ramble is from Quebec through the C6t6 de Montmorenci to
Cape Tormente, there crossing tiie St. Lawrence, vnd passing down the
south shore through the quaint old Norman Catholic villages of Mout-
magny, L'Lslet, and Kamouraska. This route can be traversed only by
an experienced traveller who is well posted in French. There are but
very few hotels in this ancient and primitive district.

V. Hotels.

The hotels of the United States will certainly bear comparison with
those of any other country. The European plan has been adopted in many
of them (as Parker's, at Boston ; the St. Julian, at Portland), while in
many others it is used in combination with the American plan, — $4 to

'"•■■•^ '•**H ^

4 * INTIIODUCTION.

84.60 per day at tlif iiion; fushioimble liouseN, $2.M lo $4 per day at tlio
coiiifortahle liotils of the siiialler citie.s, and ."? l.r»0 to ^2.50 per day in
the smaller houses in the rural distri(;tH, are the ehar^'es whieh eover all
ordinary re(|uirenients. No costly array of sundries and extras is at-
tached to the bill, and the practice of feein},' the servants has never
obtained to any extent, nor has it been found necessary.

VI. Bound -Trip Excursions.
Duriii}? the sununer and early fall the railroads i)repare series of ex-
cursion tickets at greatly reduced rates. Infornuition and lists of these
routes may be obtained from the central ollices in IJoston. The otlice
of the Iloosac Tunnel Uoute (to Saratoga, &,e.) is at G9 Washington St.,
Boston ; the Connecticut and Passumpsic lliver Railroad is at 87 Wash-
ington St.; the Boston, Concord, and Mon*^^real is at 5 State St.; the
Grand Trunk Railroad is at l.'}4 Washington St.; where is also the pas-
senger oliice of Ihe Eastern Railroad (to Portland, the Eastern Provinces,
and the White Mountains) conducted by Geo. F. Field, Escj. The Ver-
mont Central Ptailroad (office G5 Washington St.) publishes a twenty-four
page book of round excursions (with tlieir prices) to every part of New
Hampshire, Vermont, the Province of Quebec, Eastern New York, and
also to Niagara Falls, Chicago, St. Paul, and Dulutli.

VII. Climate and Dress.

The climate of New England is subject to the most sudden and severe
changes, from heat to cold or from cold to heat. The summers are
usually much hotter and the wintei-s much colder than in England, and
during the latter season great falls of snow are frequent. The summer
Bun is often fatal in its power, and long exposure to its vertical rays should
be avoided. At the same time wanu clothing shoiilil be kept at hand,
and woollen, or at least heavy cotton, underclothing should be worn, in
order to guard against the sudden changes which are so frequent.

<.■»• ■•^•*

VIII. Miscellaneous Notes.

Passports are of no use in the United States in time of peace.

The examination of luggage at the Canadian frontier and at the ocean-
ports is usiially very lenient, and conducted in a courteous manner.

Traffic is made easy from the fact that fixed charges exist in the shops,
and the tiresome processes of chaffing and beating down are unnecessary.

There are no professional guides in New England, but the people are
prompt and willing to answer all civilly put questions. Gentlemen from
abroad will remember that there is here, especially in the country, no class
oi self-recoynized peasantry, and that a haughty question or order will
often provoke a reply couched in all " the native rudeness of the Saxou
tongue."

NEW ENGLAND HANDBOOK.

1. Boston.

Hotels. Tlioso In tlie lionrt «if the city arc iiKwt rnnvrniVntly HUnntrd. Trf-
mrint lldiisc (PI. 18), on Treiuoiit Ht., conuir of ncacoii, and tlio * UiH'crc Hoiimh
(IM. H), on Howdoin Hq., aic lai';,'(', ('(inmiodious hotels, i.viir tlic Htato House, and
carried on liy the .same eoinpiiny. Tlie ^ Arneriean IFoiise(l'l. I'>), on Hanover Ht..,
is ft lar},'e and eU'j^ant Urownstoiie structure, with :J(K) rooms. l{<iard at ■':<4t«)
!?4.5()|)er day. *The Parker House (I'l. l'.»), i. nobh? niarltle l»uildinK on Hehoid
^St., opjiosite Kin;;'s Chapel and the (Mty Hall, is kept on the Knro|>e,in plan, and
is a famous resort of the young men of New Kngland. Youiir's Hotel (I'l. 'JO),
Court Ave, is on the Europt-an plan, and is mueli resorted to by city merchants.

The following hotels are less expensive : Adams House (IM. 'JH), ;i71 Wasliingtoii
St., «3; Marllw^ro' Hotel (IM. 2((). 2--'7 and 22'.) Washington Htreet ; Sherman
House; Temple House, liowdoiu Mq. ; Milliken's (^IM. 22), Washington Ht.
Near tlie great Northern railroad stations are the Arlington Hou-se (Kuiopean
l)lan) and National Hou.se. opiumite the Alljany Railroad HtJition is the exten-
sive United States Hotel (IM. 3;i). In Brattle Ht. arc the City Hotel and the Quiney
Hou.se.

At the Snvth End. — "* St. .lames Hotel, on Franklin Sq., n. viust ami elegant
struoture, 400 guests, .'J 4 a day, )? 15 to ?( 25 a week. * Commonwealth Hotel, a
new marble building on Washi.igton St., stretching from Worcester to Hjmng-
field Ht, 200 to 2.50 guests, !J4 a day. Also on Washington St., the Krskin«\
liftneaster, Everett, Warwick, ami St. Denis Houses ; and on Tremont St., the
Clarendon and the Ht. Cloud, —smaller and le.ss expensive houses.

The French system of Iloteh (Uirnis in its various forms is very popular in
Boston. The prin(;ij>al hotels of this class (with family suites) are the Evan.s
House, 175 Tremont, and the Hotel Pelham, corner Tremont and Bovlston Streets,
both fnmting on the Common. Ojiposite this, the superb Hotel Boylston, one of
the noblest buihlings in the city. The Hotels Berkeley and Kempton, and tlio
Hotel Hamilton (on Commonwealth Ave.), at the West End, and the Hotels Flor-
ence, Bradford, &e., at the South End, are of this class. The Norfolk House (iu
Roxbury)and the Maverick House (in East Boston) are large, quiet, and inexpen-
sive suburban hotels.

RegtaurantSt — * Parker House (with ladies' dining-room attached), famous
for its excellent dinners. (Charles Dickens called Parker's the best liotel iu
America.) * Young's, near Old Stiite House, with an elegant dining-hall, much
patronized for society and festal dinners. * Charles Copeland's, 4 Tremont Row, —
a dainty saloon, frescoed and fountained, much visited by ladies. The Copeland
restaurants at 208 W^ashington St., and 128 Tremont St., opposite Park St.,
are frequented by ladies. Higgins's, 120 Court St., is famous for fine oystei-s.
Wilson's Lane, Spring Lane, Brattle St., and the vicinity, abound in gootl eating-
houses, liager Beer may ]»e had at many German saloons throughout the
city. Ice-creams and confections at Copeland's, Fera's (343 Washington
St.), Southmayd's, Webers, &c.

Billiard- Rooms. — The finest hall of the kind in New England is on Wasli-
ington St., near the Boylston Market. The Revere billiard-rooms, near Bow-
doin Sq., are large and brilliant. Artemus Ward's quaint saying ia well known,
— that Harvard College is located in the billiard-room of the Parker House. Other
comfortable, though smaller rooms are scattered through the city.

Baths. — Turkish, sulplmr-fumc, and electro-chemical, rear of the Marlboro'

Route

BOSTON.

Hotel, 231 Washington St. Turkish baths, 1427 Washington St., 17 Beacon St.
Bath-rooms in the hotels.

Readlns-Koomg (open evenings also). In the Public Library are the prin-
cipal European iieriodicals, and a large number of American papers, &c. —The
Young Men's Christian Union (300 Washington St.) and the Young Men's Chris-
tian Association (comer Tremont and Eliot Sts.) have large and well-supplied
reading-rooms, free t 'i all. An introduction from a member is necessary for
entrance to the Athena-um reading-rooms. Most of the hotels devote a room to
numerous lilcs of the newspapcre of the day.

Theatres. - The Boston Theatre (PI. 27), on Washington St., near We.st, is
the largest in New England. The princii)al tragedians of (or visiting) America
have jtlaycd here, ind the liuilding is often engaged for Italian and Gennan
Operas. 'J'lie elegant Globe Theatre, " the Parlor cf Comedy," was destroyed in the
greivt Aloi'KM'i.d l);iy lire (May 30, 1873), Imt it is to be rebuilt iiii mediately. Tl)e
Mvscum Tlierifre (I'l. 1;'>), on Tremont, near School St., is conducted by a stock
company, and is (•ailed the " Urtliodox " or " Ministers' Theatre," since no si)ec-
tacular or questionable plays are allowed there William Warren, the gieat
comedian, i.s a member of the Museum comi»any, with which he has played for 26
years, winning a wide and cnvi.ihle reputation. On Howard St., near Court, is
the Howard Athenaium (PI. li;, devoted to varieties, and eutertainments by negro
minstrels.

Classic music in Music Hall by the Handel and Haydn Society, the Tnomas
Orchestra, an'^ the Apollo Club. Also semi-weekly organ concerts.

Coligulai«)t). — Austrian, 80 State St. ; Belgian, Central Whf. ; BrlHsh, 127
State St. ; French, Italian, 17 Broad ; German, 80 State ; Russian, 49 India Whf. ;
Swedish, 6 Central Wht.

Horse-cars traverse the city in all dire tions. Tremont St., between Temple
Place, and the Treuiont House, i owdoin Sq., and Scollay Sq. (corner Court
and Tremont Sts.), are the jtrincipjil centres of hor^e-car traffic. Cars leave the
Tremont House every few minutes for the Northern Depots, Chelsea Ferry, Mt.
Pleasant (in Dorchester), Warren St. (Roxbury), Grovy Hall, Dorchester, Norfolk
jJouse (Roxbury), Egieston Square, Forest Hills, Lenox St., Jamaica Plain. Brook-
line, Beacon St., and E. Boston. Also from Temple Place to Dudley St. (Rox-
bury), and Grove Hall, via Shawmut Ave. From Scollay Hq. cars run to So.
Boston, City Point, Bay View, Charlesi wn Neck, Bunker Hill, Maiden, Winter
Hill, Medford, ^Tuion Square (Somerville), Chelsea, Revere Beacii {in siimmer),
Lynn, Swanipscott. Prom foot of Summer St., cars to Dorchester and Milton.
From Bowdoin Sq., cars on 20 routes to the western suburbs, Cambridgeport,
I'iverside Press, Brighton, Newton Comer, Harvard Sq. (University), Mount
Auburn, Watertown, Arlington, Somerville (via Craigie's Bridge).

CmnibuKSS* — From Salem St., Charlestov^^l, via Warren Bridge and Wash-
i?'gton St. , to Concord St.

Carriages. — 50 cts.
from south of Dover St.
each carriage.

Steamers leave Boston as follows (in tlie season of navigation) : — For
Augustii and Bath, Me., semi-weekly, from Union Whf. ; for Baltimore, from
India Whf. ; for Bangor, semi-weekly, from Foster's Whf. ; for Calais, Me., Sat-
urdays, from Commercial Whf. ; for Djver, from Battery Whf. ; for Eastpor^.
and St. John, N. B., tri-wcekly, from Commercial Whf. ; for Gloucester, daily,
from 234 Broad St. ; for Halifax, N. S., Pictou, and Prince Edward's Island,
every Saturday, from T Whf. ; for Hull, Hingham, and Nantasket, semi-daily in
summer, froni Livcrjtool Whf. and 234 Pioad St. ; for Long Island, Quincy
Point, and North Weymouth, daily in summer, from Rov.^e's Whf. ; for Nahant,
daily in sunnner, from India Whf. ; for Pliiladeli)hia, semi-weekly, from Long
Whf. ; for Portland, daily, froui India Whf. ; for Provincetown, from Central
Whf. ; for Savannah, every ten days, from T Whf. ; for Liverpool (Cunard
Line), every Tuesday, from Cunard Whf., East Boston (cabin, 8 80 and ^100 in
gold ; Btoeiage, )$ 30 in currency). Sailing packet-lines connect Boston with
nearly every port of New England, »

Churches. — There are in the city 18 Baptist churches, 22 Congregationalist,
27 Unitarian, 1.0 Episcopal, 22 MchodLst, 7 Presbyterian, 17 Roman Catholic, 6
Uuiver- list, and 14 other religious societies. There is a German Lutheran church,
comer oi Shawmut Ave. and Waltham St. ; a Gennan Reformed church, 8 Shaw-

each passenger for a course within the city proper ;
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PUBLISHED FOR JAMES R OSGOOD & C»? "STRANGERS GUIDE TO BOSTON"

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mut St. ; a Gpnnan Methodist olinrch, 511 Shnwmtit Ave., and a Sjniagogiie
of Cicnnin Jens, on Pleasant St.

Newspapers. - 8 daily i)ai»erH are published in the city ; also 3 semi-week-
lip.i ; 72 weeklies ; 8 bi-naonthlies ; 70 nionthliea (mostly magazines) ; and 14
(|unrteilie.s.

lioHton (Bhawmnt, or " Sircct Waters "), the Purltiin City, was first settled
by a recluae Angliran clergj'man, Wiliani Hlackstnne, about the year 1G2;5. The
adventurous coloni.sts who landciPat .Salem, in IG;U), soon moved a large party to
Cliaiiestown ; but, linding no ".vater tliere, they evosscd to the peninsula of yhawmut,
imdrr the leadershii* of Isaae Johusdu, laudirg on the pre.sent site of Boston,
SeptemVier 7(0. S.), 1G.'J0. The name Hostou was given to the plaee by <n-der of
the Court, in lionor of that English city from which came Johnson and John
Cotton, two of the early church fatliers of the new settlement.*

In 10:U Blaekstone, declaring " I came I'rom Engltind because I did not like
the lord bishops, but I can't .join with you, because I wouhl not be under tha
lords brethren," sold tlio peninsula to the colonists for i^'M), and went into the
wihlerness. CJovernor Winthrop had jireviously constituted Boston the capital
of the colony, and a strong title of immigration set in. In 1031 the banpie
" Blessing of the iJay" was launched ; in 1032 the first church was built ; and ia
l()l{6-38 Harvard College was f(mnded. In 1(><>3 Josselyn writes : " The buildings
ar^ handfjome, joining one to the other as in London, with mai.y large streets,
most of them i)avcil with pebble-stones. In the high street towanls the Com-
mon there are fairc houses, souk; of stone," &c., — a great change since 1630, when
one declared it to be " a hideous wilderness, possessed by barbarous Indians,
very coM, sicklv, rocky, barren, unlit for culture, and like to keep the i)eopIe
miserable." In the Peciuot War of 1G37, and King Ph-'lip's War (1675 - 70), Boston
bore u large share, and Imndreds of jirisoners were guarded therj. " Philadelphia
was a forest, and New York was an insigniticant village, long after its rival (Bos-
ton) liad become a great commercial town."

The town gave men and money freely in defence of the frontiers against the
Franco-Indian attacks, and fleet after fleet left its harbor to do battle on the
eastern coasts. In 1704 the firstT American newspaper (the " Boston News-Let-
ter ") appeared here ; in 1710 a massive wall of brick and stone foundation, with
cannon on its parapets, and «vith two strong gates, was built across the isthmus,
or neck, on the south, near the present ijover St. This, with the wa'is on
on the water-front, 2,200 feet long, 15 feet high, and 20 feet thick, and the f.)rt3 on
Castle Island and Fort Hill, etfectually guarded against attacks by the Dutch or
French. In 1711, 5,000 of Marlborough's veterans, and a large Provincial force,
encamped at East Boston, and thence sailed on Admiral Walker's disastrous ex-
pedition against Quebec. In 1739 sailed the fteet destine<l to attack Cuba, and
of 500 men sent from the Massachusetts colony but 50 ever returned. Meantime
JFrance had erected a powerful fortress at Louisbourg, far in the north, and 4,100

Udiers, in 13 vessels, mounting 204 guns, sailed from Boston in 1745. They

*ere joined at Canseau by 10 royal frigates ; the " Ma.s3achusetts," 24, 'japtureil
tJie French frigate " Vigilant," 64 ; and alter firing 9,600 cannon-shoi into Loui.s-
.»ourg it surrendered, with 2,000 men and 76 heavy guns. Restored to France by
London treaty-makers, the work had to be done over again, and in 1758 Andierst
and Boscawen gathered a royal and provnicial army and fleet at Boston, attacked
Louisbourg with 7,000 men and 57 sail, lost 400 men, and took the fortress, with
5,600 soldiers, 39 heavy guns, G line-of-battle ships, and several frigates. In
1745 the Duke d'Anville, with 16 shii)s of the line, 95 frigates, and a large army,
was sent to retake Louisbourg and demolisli Boston. A frightful storm shattered
this armada, but he laud "d a strong force at Halifax, which annihilated a Massachu-
setts army in a battle at Grand Pre, and filled Boston with mourners. The feel-
ing of discontent which had been growing since the f<irfeiture of the colonial
charters in 1G38, and which had been increased by arbitrary acts of royal gov-
ernors and of the London cabinet, arose rai)idly in 1762-65, on the passage
of the "Writs of Assistance" and the Stamp Act. In 17G8 two royal regi-

• Bo8ton,.in Lincolnshire, Eni?., wns founded in G.50 by St. Botolph (boot-help), a pioug
Saxon and the patron-saint of Lnglish sailors. It is on the WItham River, 20 miles south-
east of Lincoln, and has l."),0()0 inhabitants. The Church of St. Botolph is its pride. It was
founded in l.'V)7, is 245 by IW feet, and can accommodr.te 5,000 people. It has noble stained
windows, and a famous tower 2>IU feet high (modelled after one at Antwerp), which is visible
for leagues at sea.

Iloutc 1.

BOSTON.

TTjeiits from Halifax moved into the town, and riots and outrages began to be
fiffjucnt. Reinforcements were sent again and again to the garrison, and Lieu-
t«Mmnt-Gener:il Gage, the commander of the British forces, was appointed (1774)
(Jovenior of Massacluisetts. Then ensued the gathering of the i)atriot annies at
Cambridge, the blockade of the city, and conseinient distress among its people,
and the bombardments from the American lines. When Lord Howe was forced
to evacuate the city, March 17, 1770, 15,000 loyalists chose to go with him, and on
tlic same day the Americans took possession of battered and hungry and depopu-
lated Boston.

Wince the close of the Revolution the city has been engaged in great internal
improvements, the construction of a network of railroads to all parts of New
F.ngland, and the i)reservation and cxtensi< » of its commerce. Great manufac-
turing interests centred here, and the city boundaries were again and again en-
larged. In June, 1S72, the Universal Teace Jubilee was held here (as projected
ancl managed by P. S. Gilmore) \\\ an immense wooden building on the Back Bay.
This editi(!e (called the Coliseum) w;ts 550 feet long, H.'jO feet wide, and 115 feet
high, thus having an area greater than that of the Milan and Cologi.c Catlie-
drals united, or of St. Paul's (London) and St. Sophia (Constantinoi>le) united.
The Roman Coliseum held 87,000 spectators, but tlie Boston Coliseum could
accommodate only 40,000 to 50,000. Great galleries ran around the hall, i)arlors,&c.,
were plentiflil, and a forest of flags and national symbols was draped within and
floated outside. Strong forces of ])olice, firemen, and artillerists were (constantly
on duty at the Coliseum. Some of the music was em])hasized by the booming of
cannon near the building and the ringing of the city bells, while a large compjiny
of uniformed firemen accompanied the oft-repeated Anvil Chorus with ringing
blows on anvils. Strauss, the Austrian composer of waltzes, and violinist, Mes-
damcs Peschka-Leutner, Rudersdorft", and Goddard were there ; also the bands of
the English Grenadier Guards, tDC French Garde R^publicaine, and the Pnissiau
Kaiser Franz Grenadier Regiment. These were aided by a grand orchestra of 2,000
musicians, and a chorus of 105 well-drilled societies, comprising 20,000 voices.
The Jubilee lasted for .3 weeks (without accident or mischance), and was varied
by a great Presidential Ball. Early in the next year the Coliseum was taken
down.

The rapid extension of commerce, and the concentration of great manufacturing
agencies in the city, jiroduced a corn^spoiKling flow of wealth and growth of
stately architecture. The streets between the Common and the Harbor, between
Summer and State Sts., were lined with lofty and ornate conunercial houses,
unsuri>assed eLsewhere in the world, and crowded with valuable goods. There
were tiers of streets lined with massive grjinite stnictures, which seemed as un-
inflammable as ravines in the solid rock. About 7 o'clock on the warm, moonlit
evening of November 9, 1872, a lire broke out in a building on the comer of Kings-
ton and Summer Sts. It speedily crept up from the lower story and turned
the Mansard roof into a sea of flame. The fire started thence in three direc-
tions, and, fanned by the gale which it had formed, it swept up and down
Summer St., and through the lateral avenues into Franklin St. and Winthrop
Sq. The flremen, although heroically active, were driven before it, until early
Sunday morning, when several buildings were blown up. About this time
the Are was checked in its southward progi-ess, and the whol-? Fire Depart-
ment (reinforced from many towns within 100 miles) faced the destroyer on
the north. From 2 to 3 o'clock Sunday moniing the flremen fought the flames on
Washington St., and after incredible efforts kept it on the lower side of the
street, and saved the Old South Church, which was scorched and strewn with
sparks. During the day the force at hand was directed on two points, the new
U. S. Post Office on Devonshire Street, and the Merchant's Exchange, and in
the narrow streets betweer. Broad and Kilby Sts. Repulsed from the first two
points, and after a time checked in its advance toward Kilby St., the fire sank
rapidly imder the cataracts of water which were being poured upon it from the
steam-engines massed along State St. By mid-afternoon the danger was over,
and many of the out-of-town engines were sent home. In less than 24 hours the
richest quarter of Boston, covering about 50 acres, had been swept away, and
nothing remained of those massive piles of granite and brick save a few ragged
and tottering fragments of wall. The loss was not far from §70,000,000. To
keep out the swarms of thieves, and to prevent the citizens and the scores of
thousands of visitors from imperilling themselves, three regiments of State trooiis

H-

BOSTON.

Route 1.

%
I

■

were called out, who formed a line of guards around the bunit district, which was
thus picketed and held under martial law for many days. Less tlian thirty lives
were lost during the tire. The rapid and resistless sjiread of the conflagration
(which would have l)een impossihle in a European city) has been attrihuteil to
tht narrow streets, the thin jtartition walls, and the universal use of lofty Man-
sard roofs built of light timlwr and jjlanking, and too higli from the street to bo
reached by the water from the engines. " Tlie best treasure of Boston cannot l)e
burnt up. Her grand capital of culture and character, scieiu-e and skill, humanity
and ndigion, is beyond tlie reach of flanu;. Sweej) away every store and house,
every school and church, and let the ])eoplc, with their history and habits, re-
main, anil they still have one of the richest and strongest cities on earth."

Boston, tlie capital of the State of Massachusett.s, and the metropolis
of New England, is one of the most ancient and famous of the Aniericjin
cities. Its colonial and Revolutionary epochs were filled with incidents
of rare heroi-sm and surpassing interest, while the later and more peace-
ful years have been rich in the triumphs of commerce and industry. Al-
though it has lost its former commercial supremacy, it still ranks as tlie
second American city in this reganl, and is carrying tlirough vast railroad
projects in order to keep its position. It is built on a dee?> iulet at the
head of Massachusetts Bay, and favorably situated either for foreign traf-
fic or for its vast trade with the manufacturing towns of New England.
So the city has grown rapidly, its population of 30,049 in the year 1800,
and 70,713 in 1830, having increased by 1870 to 250,526, with a valuation
of ? 584,000,000. The cramped limits of the peninsula being too narrow,
laifej tracts of land have been added by filling up the tide-water flats and
coves, and by the annexation and settlement of neighboring towns. In
spite of its frequent fires and rapid changes, Boston has more of a Euro-
pean appearance than any other American city, and it has also a calm,
cold, and reserved aristocracy of old families. The intellectual and musi-
cal culture of its citizens is renowned, and the most radical and advanced
schools of politics, philosophy, and religion find their home here. As for
the numerous charitable houses of the city, they have generally won the
highest praise, even the censoriotis Dickens saying : " I sincerely believe
that the public institvtions and charities of this capital of Massachusetts
are as nearly perfect as the most considerate wisdom, humanity, and
benevolence can make them." The district lying between State, Court,
and Cambridge Sts., and the waters of Charles River and tlie Harbor,
was, in the olden time, the most important part of the city, although it is
now given to the purposes of trade and the dwellings of the lower classes.
Commercial St. , forming 3 sides of a square, bounds a great part of it,
and opens on a continuous line of Avharves. The great Northern depots
of the Lowell Railroad (for Vermont and Montreal), the Eastern Rail-
road, the Fitchburg, and the Boston aiul Maine Railroad, are situated near
each other, on and near Causeway St. ;

Copp*S Hill, in the northeast part, was the site of a Briti.sh fort, which
took an active part in the Bunker Hill battle, in 1775, and burned

10 linidc J.

BOSTON.

C'liarlestowii with a sliowcr of hot sliot. Tlio ancient burying-ground
first xised iu ICtJO occujties the brow of the hill, and has been sacredly
preserved. Hero are l)nricd three fathers of tlie Puritan Churcli, Drs.
Increa.ie, Cotton, and Samuel Mather. The cemetery is open to the
jiublic.

Near Copp's Hill, on Salem St., is Christ Church (Episcopal), the
oldest church ediiice in the- city (consecrated in 1723). Aline chime of
bells is iu the tower, and its music is almost coeval with the church.
Near the West Boston Bridge is the largo granite building of the Massa-
chusetts General Hospital (PI. 4), a noble charitable institution with
rich endowments. Near it is the Medical College of Harvard University.
*Faneuil Hall (PI. 1(5), "The Cradle of American Liberty," was built
and given to the city in 1742, by Peter Faneuil, a I/uf/uenot merchant.
It was burnt in 1701, and rebuilt iu time to serve the British 14th
Regiment for barracks (1768). During the later popular excitements
nuvny stirring orations were made here, until, during the siege of 1775 - 70,
the royal ollicers turned it into a theatre. The Hall, 76 feet square
and 28 feet high, has no seats, and will accommodate a great audience.
In lime of great military or political emergencies, 'the men of Boston
flock to Faneuil Hall by thousands. On the walls arc some good por-
traits : Peter Faneuil, Sargent; George Washington, *S^«ar<; Commo-
dore Preble, General Warren, John Q. Adams, * Webster replying to
Hayne, Ilealy ; Edward Everett, Abraham Lincoln, John A. Andrew,
* Samuel Adams, Coplr.y (Ids nuisterpiece) ; and others. Fronting Fan-
euil Hall is the (580 ft.) long granite building of the Quincy Market,
where all kinds of meat, fish, fruit, and vegetables are exposed in
tempting profusion. Not far from the Market is the *U. S. Custom
House (PI. 24), perhaps the most massive and imposing building in Bos-
ton. It was built. 1837 - 49, at a cost of nearly $ 1,100,000, and its walls,
roof, and dome" are of granite. The building is in the form of a Greek
cross, and is surrounded by 32 immense columns, 5 ft. thick and 32
ft. high. The great granite warehouses (Eta*"^ St. Block, &c.) in tlie
vicinity are wortliy of attention ; also the ever-busy wharves near State
St. The old Post Office (PI. 21), or Merchants' Exchange, with 6 long
gi-anite colunnis in front, is famous as the point where the flames advancing
on State Street were checked, in the Great Fire of 1872, by a platoon of
husky, dingy, and quivering steam fire-enghies drawn up before it. The
Wall Street of Boston, the haunt of its bankers and brokers, is the part
of State St. between the old Post Office and the Old State House.
This ancient edifice was built in 1748, and long used by the legislature of
the colony. On March 5, 1770, a collision occurred between the towns-
people and the British main-guard stationed here, and a volley was fired,
killing four and wounding many of the crowd. This affair was called the

rl
ii
11

BOSTON.

IloiUe 1. 1 1

treek

I 32

tiic

>tate

long

]

** Boston Massacre," and tlie soldiers were tried before tlie Colonial Court
on the charge of murder, an<l exonerated. Opj^osite the Old State House
is a nia.^nilicent marble buildiii}^ in Venetian Gothic architecture, with a
149 ft. front on Court St. and 55 ft. on Washington St., which cost about

$750,000, and is used for bank, railroa<l, and insurance offices. Just
above, on Court Scj., is the heavy front of the Suffolk County Court
House, back of whieli, and fronting on School St., is the * City Hall, built
in 18G2-()5. $1«)0,000 were approi)riated to build it, and it cost really
more than §500,000. It is of white Concord granite, in the Italian
Renaissance architecture, with 138 ft. front and 95 ft. height, the Louvre
dome which is the headquarters of the fire-alarm being 109 ft. high. The
Council Cliarnbers are very fine, as is the whole interior arrangement.
In front of the City Hall is a bronze statue of Dcnjiumn Franklin, 8
ft. high, on a base of verde antique and granite, with historic bronze me-
dallions on the sides. The artist was 11. S. Greenough, and the means
of its erection ($20,000) were raised by the peo2»le.

Cciijaniin Pranklin was born in Boston in 1708. Ho was ai)i)rentice(l to his
brotlior, a itrinter, but ran away to I'hiladelpliia in 172;{. Tliore he rose steadily
until in 17(34 he was sent to Englaml as colonial agent, when, in 17(50, he si)uke
before the House of Commons, and tho Htamp A(;t was repealed. Elected to
Congress, he was on tlie eonimittco on the Declaration of Intlependenee, and
signed that document. From 177Gto 1785 he was Minister to France, with wliieh
he procured the treaty of alliance of 1773 which saved the Republic. His later
works were of diplomacy and philanthropy, and he founded the Abolition So-
ciety. He invented the harmonica, and the Franklin stove ; and in 17r>2 found
the identity of lightning and the electric fluid by means of a kite. His scientillc
] ibors won him high honor in Europe.

Opposite the City Hall is the Parker House (PI. 19), and to the right is
King's Chapel.

On Washington St., near the foot of School St., is the Old South
Churoh, the shrine of Boston. It was built in 1729, on the site of a
cedar-wood church which had been built in 1669. The exciting meetings
of the people in the late colonial days were held here, and thence marched
the disguised men to the attack on the tea ships (Dec. 13th, 1773.) In
1775 the pews were removed, and a riding-school for the British cavalry
was here formed, the interior being well packed with gravel, and a liciuor
saloon being placed in one of the galleries. The diurch was restored in
1782, and contained (imtil 1873) two galleries, many scjuare "pues on ye
lower flore," and a pulpit overarched by a sounding-board. Externally it
is plain, with a high spire, and a clock. " More eyes are upturned to
its clock daily than to any other timekeeper in New England. " Franklin
was baptized here (in the older church) ; Whitefield has preached here ;
for one hundred and sixty years the election sermons (before the legisla-
ture, council, and governor) have been delivered here ; it was saved, by
deathless heroism, from the Great Fire ; and yet before 1875 this ancient
shrine will probably be torn down and replaced by a line of shops with

12 llmtc 1.

BOSTON.

a Maiisanl roof. It was leased to tlie Government for a Post Office in
December, 1872.

Near the Old South, on Milk and Dovonsliire Sts., is the Ktructuro
to be occupied by the TJ. 8. Post Office and Suli-Troasury ^Pl. 44). It is
l)iiilt of granite, in the prevalent FnMich style of architecture, with an
immense roof, and groups of statuary on the front. Its ^'reat size, and
the fineness of Us materials, render it an inijxjsing building. The mas-
sive granite front on Milk St. was so much cracked and injured in
the Great Fire (by intense heat from across the street) that much of it
had to be rebuilt. The build ini,' fronts "200 ft. on Devonshire St., and
will cost from !?, 2,000,000 to -S ;{,()00,()00. From this building (which was
hcM desperately ami successfully against the fire) the burnt district lies
on the south, east, and west. From the Old South Church, Washington
St., the main retail thoroughfare of the city, nms southwest, and is
always filled with a busy throng. On the corner of School St. is the
Old Corner Bookstore, in a building dating from 1712. Farther along
are the two principal theatres, and soma ^-irge bookstores. The comer
of Washington and Winter Sts. is the liveliest pohit in the city, and
Winter St. is full of ladies' shops.

From Boylston Market Boylston St. runs out past the Common.
At the corner of Tremont St., and facing the Common, is the Masonic
Temple (PI. 45), built 1864 -G7. The first Masonic Lodge in America met
in Boston in 1733, since when the order has steadily grown, save during
the days of the Anti-Masonic party. The Temple is a lofty edifice of
granite, built in such fonns of medieval architecture as " to suggest the
most eflfective poetical and historical associations connected with the Ma-
.sonic institution." The interior contains Corinthian, Egyptian, and Gothic
Halls, besides banqueting-rooms, &c. Opposite the Temple is the large
and elegant Hotel Boylston (suites of rooms for permanent dwellers), in
the Italian-Gothic style. The lofty brownstone building of the Hotel
Pelham is on the opposite comer, next door to which is the * Boston Pub-
lic Library, in a so-called fire-proof building of brick and sandstone.
This Library contains 193,000 volumes, and 100,000 pamphlets, and is the
largest in America, except the Library of Congress. The Lower Hall is
devoted to popular books and a reading-room, while the noble Bates Hall,
above, is reserved for more substantial works. All these rooms are open
to the public, and any one can take books and read there, though only resi-
dents of the city can take books from the building. The walls of the rooms
are covered with pictures, which form part of the collection of engravings
formerly owned by Cardinal Tosti, of Rome. This collection, embracing
from 6,000 to 7,000 pictures (many being fine old works of Marc Antonio
and Albert Diirer), was presented to the Library by Mr. T. G. Appleton,
and fills many volumes.

*i^

<i^

BOSTON.

Ro\Uel. 13

Tho U. S. Court House, corner Tremont St. and Tenii»k' IM., was
built and long u.st'd as a Masonic Teni])le. It has a churclily look, and
the main walls are built of triangular blocks of granite. Next to the
Court House is St. Paul's Episcoital Church, of gray granite, with G
columns of rotoinac sandstone upholding a classii; lu'dinient. Near this,
at the corner of I'ark St. (formerly called Brimstone Corner), is Park
Street Church, an ohl i'uritan nieetingdiouse, where the able and Ijril-
liant Murray is now settled. Adjoining the Church is the Old Gninnry
Burying O'roiind, where are buried Governor Bellingham (died 1672), and
8 other colonial and state governors, 2 signers of the Declaration of
Independence, famous divines, Peter Faneuil, who gave the Hall to
Boston, Paul llevere, the Revolutionary hero, Chief Justice Samuel Sew-
all, John Hancock (see Quincy), and Samuel Adams.

Samuel Adams, born at Boston in 1722, was one of the leade*^ of the people in
tilt! at,'it,iitii)iis of n(H-7i>, ami was prost rilied by the royal KovtTiinieut. In 17(W
he advocated the iii(l(']i('iidt'iic(! of America, and during' tht^ Hcvolntion directed
tlie measiue-t of Congress in the Nortliern war. " Thoiij^h jioor, >Samiu-l Adams
j)orisessi!dalnffyand incorniiitilile spirit, was piu-eiii morals, and grave and austere
m manner, though warm in his feelings. As a sjieaker, lu; was i»ure, concise,
logical, and impressive ; and the energy of his diction was not inferior to the
.stnjngth of his uiind." The Htate is to ))laee his statue in the Capitol at Wash-
ington. A granite pyramid is over the remains of Franklin's jiarents. From
the sidewalk before the cemetery rises a row of tall elms, which were tmnsplanteU
IVuia England, and placed here in 17U2.

Op])o.site tlie Cliurch is the extensive publi.shing house of James R. Os-
good k Co., and beyond it, down Hamilton PL, is seen the plain wall
of Music Hall (PI. 25). Entrance from Central PL, 15 Winter St., or
at IIG Tremont St. This is one of the most elegant and well-arranged
halls in America, and is of rare acoustic properties. Witidn this hall
is the largest organ in the New World, containing 5474 pipes, and 84 com-
plete registers, and encased in an elegant frame, with a colossal statue
of Beethoven in the foreground. The organ was built by Herr Walcker,
of Ludwigsburg, 1857 - 03, at a cost of $ 60,000 dollars, and is often played
l)y competent professionals. Farther along Tremont St., on the right, is
the elegant white granite building of the Horticultural Hall, with a many-
columned front, — Doric in the first story, Ionic in the second, and Corin-
thian in the third. The rich cornice is surmounted by a colossal Ceres, a
copy from the ancient statue in the Vatican ; while on piers, at the cor-
ners of the second story, are statues of Flora and Pomona. Fairs, floral
sliows, and lectures are held iu the spacious halls above. Alongside the
Hall is the Studio Building, the home of many local artists.

Tremont Temple comes next, with a plain Palladiau front, and a great
hall, which is used on Sunday by a Baptist church, and during the week
for lectures, readings, etc. On the same side of the street is King's
Chapel, built in 1754, by the Episcopalians, on the site of the lii-st church
of that sect in Boston (built 1689). King's Chapel was deserted by its

14 Route 1.

BOSTON.

people wlu'ti (}age and tlie Loyalists left the tov/n, and was oocupietl by
the Old South Society. At a later day, iuHueiiced l)y their rector, Rev.
Jumea Freeman, the few remaining churchmen revised their liturgy, strik-
ing out nil Triniturianism, and formed themselves into the first Unitarian
churi'li in Hoston. Ni'xt to tliis Church is tho Imrying-ground used hy
the Puritans from 1630 onward. Isaac Johnson, " The Father of Bos-
ton," was buried liere ere the first year of thu settlement was ended.
About him his people were buried for many years. In one tomb is Gov-
ernor John Winthrop, and his two sons, who were governors of Co)mecticut.

John Witithrnp, a jiious lawyer of HudWlk, 1»'<I a colony to Halnm In 1(530. Tie
moved his |i<'oplf to Mo.sloii un<l built up tiiat i>l,i('(i, where he rule<l as (Jovernor
ol' Massacliiisetts. l(i;{t»-:{4, 1<1.{7-1(), l(i4iI-44, l()4(t-4!>. He was an ainiahh; n«n-
thMuan, a tlrin ruler, anil a believer in niiHi<>rat(f aristocratic principles, sUiting in
liis letter to the people of (Jonneetieut, that "the best nurt of a community is
always the least, and of that i»art the wiser are still less. ^

Other noted Puritans are buried here, and in the church are monuments
to the families of Apthorpe, Shirley, and Vassall.

Beyond the cemetery is a granite building, partly occupied by the
Massachusetts Historioal Sooiety, which has a library of 1(3,000 books,
and 800 volumes of MSS. Many ancient portraits (Increase Mather,
Sebastian Cabot, &c.) adorn the walls, while relics of Washington and
the Puritan governors, and of King Phili]>, the chair of Winslow, the
swords of Church and of Governor Carver, are carefully preserved here.
The New England Historic-Genealogical Society (18 Somerset St.) has a
fine library, and a small collection of curiosities.

At 40 Winter St. are the rooms of the Anmrican and Foreign Chris-
tian Union, the Sunday School Union, the Peace Society, and the Congre-
gational Association. Churchmen of the various sects will find their
respeetive headquarters as follows : Baptist Mission Society, 12 Bedford
St. ; Congregational Club, corner Somerset and Beacon Sts. ; Publishing
Society, 13 Cornhill ; Episcopal Church Association, corner West and
Tremont ; Methodist Educational and Historical Societies, 38 Bromfield ;
New Church Union, 2 Hamilt-n Place (library and reading-room) ;
Universalist Publishing House, -l ' Cornhill ; American Unitarian Asso-
ciation, 42 Chauncy St. ; Clui-'ian Unity, 375 Harrison Ave. ; Parker
Fraternity, 554 Washington St. The General Theological Library (22
West St. ) and the Mercantile Library are much used, and the reading-
rooms of the Young Men's Christian Association (corner Tremont and
Eliot) and the Young Men's Christian Union (300 Washington St.)
are pleasant, and freely open. The British, Irish, Scotch, Germans, and
Italians have benevolent societies. In Boston there are 27 lodges, 8
chapters, and 6 commanderies of Masons, 18 lodges and 5 encampments
of Odd Fellows, 22 divisions of Sons of Temperance, 13 Temples of
Honor, 7 lodges of Good Templars, 9 posts of the Grand Army of the

DOSTON.

Route 1. 15

Chris-
oiigre-
their
Iford
isliing
st and
field ;
'oom) ;
Asso-
arker
ry (22
ading-
it and
St.)
and
8
ments
es of
)f the

ges.

ir)

Republic, 15 loilges of the Knights of I'ythi is, and 4 lodges of the Haru-
gari (Geniians).

On Treniont, near School St., is the Boston Museum (entmnce fee,
30 eta.) whiTo, in a lofty hall, a great number of rare tilings are
sh ■ "n, embracing curiosities from all parts of tlie world, cvsts, wax-fig-
ures, scores of portraits of eminent Americans (by West, Copley, Stuart,
etc.), and Sully's great picture of Washington crossing the Delaware.

DoHton Common* ^VIl•'^ tht> ])oii insula of Hhuwiiuit (now no^ton) wns
boll ;ht troiii llliu-kstoiii' for Eiit), in tlii' year WM, this tra<t was rcsurvinl by tlio
coloni.sus for II tniiniiijVK'roiiiMl (piinKlc) uinl pasture. Kvcry attempt hIuco niiulo
to occMipy portions of it lias Iktu rfpulseil, excojit in the early (lays, wlion tlio
jjroiuiil botwrun I'ark, Ufaion, ami 'lii'moiit Sts. was takt-ii. hpt'cial care was
tJikfii, in IS2:,, wlu'ii tlic clLy was t'onm'd, to withhold iVoiii the niunit'ipal f,'i>v-
ernmcnt the power of alicnatiiiK any |>art of tho Common. Ik'tweoii KS.'id ami
ItXJi) several persons were execntetl here on tlio cliarKo of witc'.i.raft, ami for ono
liiuidred and lll'ty years after executions took jilace on tiie ' 'onimoii. DuriuK tho
Hunnner of l(i7(J many scores of Indians ( ;iu.','lit red-lnuided weio l>ut to death
here, union;,' whom was the insurgent rliicf Matoouus. Tiiirty were exeiuited in
ono il.iy, and their heads were fastened on stakes and left in public places. About
tills time (I07r)) the travtdler Josselyn Hjieaks of it as " a small bnt jileasant Coni-
ninii, wliere tlie Gall.ints, u little before sunset, walk with their Maniiiilet-
Madams, till the bell at It o'chxdv rin^s them home. Iii 1728 oc(;nrred a fatal
duel, under the Old FOIni, whereiiitfiu a law was imssed, that ]iorHoiis killed in
ilucls should lie denied Cliristian burial, and shoidd be buried translixed with a
stake. If the duel was not fatal, both parties should stand on tlie gallows ono
hour with a rope about their necks, ami t'-.en be inijirisoned for om; year. Ho the
80-called coile of honor passed from tho social system »f Massachusetts. In 1740
George Whiteliehl preached to 20,000 persons in one body on the Common.
Durin:,' the American sie,\'o of Boston a British fort was built on tlie hilt near
the Ehn Tree, which drew some of Washington'M heavy shot. Ilaees, parades,
and milit.iry executions were meanwhile held here. The garrison of the town in
1812 encainjied here, and so late as 19,'M) it was a eow-])asture enclosed by a two-
railud fence. In 1830 the present iron-fence (IJt M. long) was built, and cattle
were excluded. In the days of the Rebellion tho assembling troops paraded here,
and in the (Jreat l'"iro of 1872 vast mounds of saved goods were i»iled along tho
malls and on tae luwns.

l*oston Common contains about 48 acres, and is rich in la\vns and
noble trees. No carriages are allowed to enter, and the walks are filled
with people on pleasant summer evenings and Sundays, Under the
stately elms of the Beacon and Trcmont St. Malls are favorite prome-
nades. Near Park St. is the Brewer fountain, made in Paris, and em-
Itellished with bronze statues of Neptune and Amphitrite, Acis and Gal-
atea, Copies of this fountain have been made for the cities of Lyon.s,
Bordeaux, and Alexandria (Egypt), The Frog Pond has a large foun-
tain, supplied from Cochituate Lake, and near it is the Old Elm, — a great
and ancient tree which is peculiarly revered by the Bostonians, and has
been bolted and bandaged with iron and canvas, and fenced in, and so
preserves its hale and verdant strength. On Flagstaff Hill, near the Old
Elm, a soldiers* monument is to be built, to be 90 ft. high, with historical
reliefs, &c. ; at the four corners heroii; statues of Peace, History, the Army,
and the Navy. Above will be allegoiical figures, — the North, South, East,

(•«

1 G Pcoule 1.

BOSTON.

♦ ■

» '

and West, — and above all a colossal America, resting on a hemisphere,
guarded by four eagles, with the flag in her left hand, and wreaths and a
sheathed sword in her right. In the south part, near the old cemetery,
is a deer-park. The west part of the Common is smooth and bar<', and is
reserved for a parade-ground and a ball-ground for the boys.

Tlie Public Gardens lie west of the Common, and contain 22 acres.
In 1794, 6 rojjewalks were built here, on tide-water flats, and most of
the improvements have been made during the past 15 years. In its
centre is a beautiful artificial serpentine pond of 4 acres, crossed by a fine
briJge. Near Beacon St. is a bronze statue of Everett, by Story, mod-
elled in Rome and cast in Munich. The monument to the discovery of
anaesthetics (1868) 's a rich and beautiful composition. *Veniis rising
fi'ovi tJie Sea is a lovely work, from above which, when the waters play,
a fine spray falls about the figure, whicli is sometimes called "the Maid
of the Mist." But the finest work of the kind in New England is the
colossal equestrian * Statue of Washington, by Ball, which fronts on
Commonwealth Ave. The statue is 22 ft. high, ou ; pedestal 16 ft.
high. The bronze work was done at Chicopee, in this State.

Commonwealth Ave. — which is to be 1^ miles long and is 240 ft.
wide, with a park in the middle — runs W. from the Public Gardens, and
is lined with fine mansions. A statue of Alexander Hamilton is in the
park. Nearly all the land north of Tremont and west of Arlington St.
has been reclaimed from the water, and is now the finest part. o( the city.
The new streets are alphabetically named, yet they avoid the weak sound
of the upper New York and Washington city streets, having sonorous old
English titles, — Arlington, Berkeley, Clarendon, Dartmouth, Exeter, Fair-
field , Gloucester, &c. At the comer of Marlborough and Berkeley Streets
is the * rich and elegant building (with English glass, n German organ,
and an exquisite little cloister) of the First Church in Boston (Unita-
rian). This society dates from 1630. Near by, on the comer of Berke-
ley and Newbury Sts., v the miniature cathedral of the Central Congre-
gational Society. It is of Roxbury stone, in cruciform siiape, has a stone
spire 240 ft, high, and is rich in lofty, pointed windows, pinnacles, flying
buttresses, &c. It cost $ 325,000. In this vicinity is the Emanuel Church
(Episcopal) on Newbury St., and the fine brownstone Arlington St
Chui'ch (Unitarian) with its melodious chime of bells. Alongside the Cen-
tral Church is the fine building of the Society of Natural History, where
courses of lectures are given. The extensive collections embrace birds,
shells, re})tiles, fishes, insects, fossils, with sections devoted to ethnology,
geology, i)alneo;)tology, mineralogy, and microscopy. The finest collection
of mounted skeletons in America is kept here. The classic building of
the Institute of Technology is close to tlie Museuni. This is a richly-
endowed popular school of high order, whose object is to teach the appli-

es?

BOSTON.

Route 1. 17

in the
;on St.
le city,
sound
ms old
Fair-
treets
organ,
lUnita-
erke-
ongre-
stone
flying
hurch
n St
Cen-
^vhe^e
birds,
logy,
ction
ig of
hly-
ppli-

cation of science to tlie useful arts, for which purpose it is provided with
fine cabinets and apparatus.

The * State House (PI. 13) is on the summit of Beacon Hill, fronting
the Common. Its corner-stone was drawn to the place July 4, 1795,
by fifteen white horses, amid great ceremoJiies. The most prominent ob-
jects on tjie exterior are tlie fine Corinthian colonnade and the high round
dome. When the Legishiture (or General Court) is in session, national
flags are displayed from ihe buikUng. The * Doric Hall, at the entrance,
is a neat, marble-paved room, supported by colunnis, und surrounded by
high niches, fronted with plate-glass, in which are gathered the banners
of the Massachusetts regiments borne in the War for the Union. On the
right are busts of Char-les Sunnier and Samuel Adams, rnd on the left a
bust of Abraham Lincoln and a statue of Gov. John A. Andrew, by Ball.
In a marble-paved and Ijanner-hung rotunda, opening on the Doric Hall,
is Chantrey's * Statue of Washington, in front of which are copies of the
monuments of the old Washington family, at Brington^ in Northampton-
sliire. The House of Representatives (up stairs to the left from the Doric
Hall) is a plain and somewhat crowded hall, witli a codfish hanging from
the roof, as emlle\natie of a prolific source of the wealtli o*" the State.
Tlie Senate Chamber is on the other side, and is adorned l)y some ohl por-
traits and trophies. The extensive State Library is in the west wing.
From the dome of tiie State House (open when the Legislature is not in
session) is obtained a fine * view. Boston Harbor, with its islands, and
peninsulas, and the distant blue ocean, fill the east ; in the north are
Charlestown, its Navy Yard and Monument, with Lynn, Chelsea, Maiden,
and Medford ; to the west, Charles River and Back Bay, Cambridge, Brigh-
ton, Brooldine, iJid Newton ; and in the south, Roxbury and Dorchester,
with the blue lulls of Milton far away. On the terraces in front of the
building are bronze statues of Daniel Webster and Horace Mann, the
great educationist. The house opi)osite (corner Park and Beacon Sts.)
was for 40 years the home of George Ticknor, author of the " History
of Spanish Literature," in 3 volumes (translated into German and Span-
ish), who bequeathed 4,000-5,000 Sp;aiish books to the Public Library.
The Union Club (600 members), a patriotic organization formed in 1863,
occupies the iie.xt house below (on Park St.). On Beacon St., near the
State House, is the * Boston Atheneeum, a neat, brownstone building,
in the Palladian style. On the lower Hoor is the library of the American
Academy of Arts and Sciences, aid a large reading-room adorned with
statuary. In the vestibule are casts of Houdon's Washington and of
Sophocles, also a marble statue — The First Inspiration of Columbus —
by Montaverde, auu a bronze group — the Boy and the Eagle — by Green-
ouijh. Among the statuary in the reading-room is Ori)h'^"<? in Hades,
Crawford ; Hebe and Ganymede, (Jraioford ; Children, Greenoi^gh ; and

18 Umite 1.

BOSTON,

fine casts of Tliorwaldsen's Venus, Angelo's Night and Morning, the
Laocoon, Apollo Belvedere, Minerva, Menander, Barberini Fann, &c. On
the second floor is a noble library of nearly 100,000 volumes, including
the library of Washington, and 400-500 volumes of engravings. Th';
building and its contents being owned by the Athenaeum, an introduction
fi-om one of its members will give strangers tlie benefits of the library.
Tlie stairways are lined witli large paintings, and on the third floor is
the Picture Gallery (fee, 25cts.). 300-350 pictures are on exhibition
liere, mostly copies from the old masters.

Tlie original works (nuiribers often changed) are, * Sortie from Gibraltar, Tniin-
huU {his mantcrit'nifo) ; Arch of Oetavius, iiicrstaJt; I3elshazzar's Feast, Allstoii
("The Aniorlcau Titian"); Mount Washington, Gay; * Isaac of York, Allston ;
Indian Captive, Weir ; Angels appearing to yhei)hurds, C'^'e ; Priam and dead
lletttor, Trumbull; y)()rtr;iits of * Washington and his Wife, Stuart; Benjamin
West, Alhton ; Daniol WeUster, Chief Justice Marshall, Harding ; William Tudor,
Sully ; the Rajah Kamniohun lloy, i2. Pculc ; William Wirt, Invmn ; * Count of
Wurtemberg mourning over his Dead Son, Ary ScJuieffer ; Storm at Sea, //«e.
Garden of Love, Wattean ; two fruit-pieces, Peter Jioel ; LandavaiMi, Ruysdael ;
Dante and Beatrice, Schaeffer ; The ^'laying of Marsyas, and the Golden Age,
Luca Giordano. There are a great number of cojjies (in oil) of famous European
l)ietures, and in one room 50 of the chromo-lithograijhs of the Arundel S'oci( ■
(London), being copies of famous religious i)aintings in the noontide of i it <
these rooms are casts of the antique works, — the Quoit-Players, Piping Faun, .si-
lenus and Bacchus, Boy with a thorn in his foot, the Venus de Milo, and the
Dying Gladiator, with busts of Julius Ca;sar, Augustus, Tiberius, Caligula. Clau-
dius, Nei'o, Galba, Otho, Vitellius, Vespasian, Titus, Domitian, Nerva, Trajan. Ha-
drian, tlie Antonines, &e. A beautiful marble copy of the Venus de Medici is in
one room, also (in marble) Greek Girl, by Wolf; * Maid of Carthage, G>ee«ou[//t ;
Will o' tlie Wisp, Harriet Hosmer ; * Venus V^ictrix, Greenough.

One room is occujiied by a large collection of Egyptian antiquities, Piu bracing
hundreds of figures of the gods Osiris, Amun, Ilorus, Isis, &c., in bronze, marble,
wood, porcelain, and terra-cotta ; also a large number ot scaraba'i, amulets, vases,
and curious jewels. There are also seven human munnnies, with a great number
of funereal trappings, and munnnies of monkeys, lambs, ibises, cats, liawks, mice,
crocodiles, tortoises, snakes, &c. There are 1,100 pieces in this collection (cata-
logue, at the door, 25 cts.).

In the next room are several hundred lamps, amphora;, cups, statuettes, heads,
weapons, &c., from IdaUum, on the Island of Cyprus, of j-ieat intei'est to the
student of early Phoenician and Greek history. The Appleton collection is on the
same floor, containing many Gri\>eo-Italian lictile i)ainted vases from Etruscan
and Campanian toLibs. Some elaboiate old (uibinets contiiin fine Venetian glass-
ware, and a large number of rich majolica i)lates are exhibited. A large piece of
Gobelins tapestry (France crowned by Victory and attended by Minerva) occupies
one end of the I'oom ; at the other end is a groui) of plaster casts from famous Italian
bas-reliefs, near which is a Madonna and Cliild, by Luca delta Itohhia, and the
Virgin adoring the infant Jesus, by Andyea delta RolMa. Two large pictures by
Boucher, two by Allston, a large collection of ancient coins (a gold Alexanuer), and
the rich oaken panels, carved and g'Kled, from the Chateau Montmorency, are
worthy of n.^i.e. The positions of the pictures and curiosities are so often changed
that a n^ore careful list would be of no permanent use.

Near the Athensum is Pemberton Square, the site of an old Indian ne-
cropolis, where 300 skulls were dug up in Cotton Mather's time. Gover-
nor Endicott and Sir Henry Vane lived near this spot, and in later days
it was an aristocratic centre. Now its houses are occupied by offices, and
in the Mission Rooms (number 35) is kept a small museum of curiosities
from " lands of heatlienesse." Louishury Square is a stately and silent place

BOSTON.

Route 1. 19

«N

on the fartlier slope of Beacon Hill, embellislieJ with statues of AristiJes
£',nd Cohunl)us. Near the State House is a vast atul massive granite
structure, 200 feet square and Q'o f » "t high, on Derne St., which is
called the Beacon Hill Reservoir, and holds, at this high level, about
2,700,000 gallons of water.

The Perkins Institution for the Blind was founded in 1831, by Dr. S.
G. Howe. It was favored by liberal popular contributions, and now oc-
cupies large buildings on Mt. Washington, S. Boston. Charles Dickens
visited and highly praised this institution, as also the charitable and cor-
rective establishments in a secluded position near Independence Scpiare,
S. Boston (In ane Hospital and House of Correction).

"Such are the institutions at South Boston. In all of them the unfortunate or
ileyenerate citizens of the State arc carefully instruut('<l in their duties both to
(j()(l ;uid man ; -re surrounded by all reasonable means of comfort or happiness
that their ccmdition will admit of ; and are ruled by the stronj^ Heart, and not by
tlie strong (tliouj^h immeasurably weaker) Hand." — Dickkns.

The extensive Carney Hospital (managed by Sisters of (Jharity) is near by on
tlie hill, and above it is a reservoir and small park near the site of the old foi-t.
On the bri;^ht, moonlit night of Marcli :{, 177'j, General Thomas and 2,000 Ameri-
eans advanced fpiietly to this i)oint (Don hester Heii^lits), and, when morning
tl.iwiicil, two strong forts were compU'ted within point-blank range of Boston,
iiord Percy and 2,400 royal trooi)s were ordered to attack them, ami Washington
himself, with 4,000 men, awaited the ciiset. But a storm, "propitious to the
real interests of the British arniy," prevented Percy from crossing tlie harbor. A
few days later the city was heavily bombarded, and a nev, fort having been built
still nearer, the royal forces were forced to evacuate Boston. Marcli IS, sailing
away in 150 transports, and carrying with them 3,000 New-Englandei-s who re-
mained loyal to King George. From +his little park a fine view is obtained of
Bohton and its harbor, and of Dorchester and the southern suburbs.

The South End.

The district south of Boylston and Essex Sts. is mainly occupied by
dwelling-houses, and Washington St., with its retail stores and hotels,
runs through its centre. The greater part of this district has been re-
claimed fiom the water. Near the line of Dover St. a wall garnished
with cannon formerly crossed the Neck and defended the town. Union
Park and Worcester and Chester Squares are embellished with trees and
fountains and surrounded with fine residences. Columbus Ave., on the
north, is abroad thoroughfare of aristocratic pretensions and forming an
admirable drive-way. On Tremont St. is the imposing white granite
edifice of Odd Fellows' Hall (built 1871-73), and beyond it some fine
churches, the best of which is the quaint and rambling Methodist Church.
On Harrison Ave., near Concord St., is tlie City Hospital (PI. 10.) with
a fine building (surmounted by a dome) in the centre, joined to the
spacious wings by curving colonnades. Near the Hospital is the Roman
Catholic Home for Orphans, and the Jesuit Church of the Immaculate
Conception (with a fine interior, and famed for its music), connected with
which is Boston College.

Ill

20 Iloute S.

ENVIRONS OF BOSTON.

The Roman Catholic * Cathedral of the Holy Cross is on the corner of
"Wasliington and Maiden Sis. This stately structure was commenced in
1867, and is yet far from completion. The mediaeval Gothic architec-
ture? has been closely adhered to in its construction, tliough in its phase of
severest simplicity. Its external length (including the Chapel of the Holy
Cross) is 305 ft, ; the nave is 320 ft. long and 120 ft. high. The Cathedral
is 188 ft, wide at the transepts, and in the nave and aisles its width is 90
ft. The external length is greater than that of the Cathedrals at Vienna,
Ratisbon, Munich, Orvieto, Messina, Monrealc, Pisa, Venice, Freibourg,
Treves, or St. Denis. It is higher (in the nave) than the Cathedrals ut
Vienna, Munich, Paris, Spires, Strasburg, Freibourg, Rheims, Chartres,
Antwerp, or St. Ouen at Rouen. The main spire is to reach a height of
320 ft., and to be provided with a fine chime of bells. St. Patrick's Ca-
thedral, at New York, and the Montreal Cathedral (just commenced) are
the only rivals in America of the Cathedral of the Holy Cross. ^ , , „ .

2. Environs of Boston.

i'<

" It is not only in the Harvard lu'ecincts tliat the oldness o,' New England is to
1)6 remarked. Altliough lier people are everywhere in the vunguard of all pro-
giess, their country has a look of gable-ends and steeple-hats, while their laws
seem fresh from the hands of Alfred. In all England there is no city which has
suburbs so gray and venerable as the elm-shaded towns around Boston, — Dorches-
ter, Clielsea, Nahant, and Salem ; the peoi)le speak the English of Elizabeth, and
joke about us — ' he speaks good English for an Englishman.' " — Sin Charles
Djlk£.

Boston Harbor.

The Soute to Nahant. Soon after leaving India Wharf, with East
Boston on the left, Governor's Island is passed on the r, Tliis island
was granted to Governor Winthrop in 1G32, and was long called Gover-
nor's Garden, and here, according to Josselyn, in 1638, were the only
apple and pear trees in New England, A powerful fortress of the United
States, called Fort Winthrop, now occupies the island. Soon after pass-
ing the Fort ti:t steamer enters a narrow strait, between Point Shirley
on the 1, and Deer Island on +be r. The point was named in honor
of William Shirley, Governor of Massachusetts 1741 to 1756, sometime
commander of the British armies in America, and Governor of the Ba-
hama Islands, It now forms the S, end of the town of Winthrop, and
is occupied by Taft's Hotel, widely renowned for its excellent fish and
game dinners. Opposite Point Shirley is Deer Island (4^ M. from
Boston), " so-called because of the deare, who often swim thither from
the maine when they are chased by the wolves " (17th century). During
the war of King Philip (1675 - 76) this place presented a piciful sight,
for hundreds of Indian prisoners were landed and guarded here, and
scares of them died of hunger and from exposure to the winter frosts. At
present the island is occupied by the iumiense buildings (In the form of a

ENVIRONS OF BOSTON.

RoiitoS. 21

Latin Cross) of the Boston i Imshouse, and of the House of Industry an<l
the House of Reformation,

In May, 1776, the Boston privateere *' Franklin" and "Lady Wash-
ington " grounded on Point Shirley, and were attacked by thirteen British
man-of-war boats. The action lasted for several hours, until the tide
rose, when the privateers escaped. In the war of 1812 the frigate ''Con-
stitution " was once blockaded in Boston Harbor, and got away by creep-
ing through Shirley Gate by night. Beyond Point Shirley the lofty blutts
of Vvinthrop are passed on the 1., succeeded by Chelsea Beach with its
hotels, and the City and Harbor of Lyiui, in full view of which the wharf

at Nahant is gained.

Nahant.

By steamer direct from India Wharf, Boston, or by Eastern Railroad to Lynn,
and thence by omnibus 6 times <laily.

Hotels. — The immense liotcl at Erist Point, built 1824, and long the pride of
the coast, was Imnied in 1801 ; there remain but small hotels, — Whitney's Vil-
lage Hotel, Bay View Cottage, Hood Cottage.

Nahant is a peninsula composed of ocean-swept rocks, with pleasant
beaches interspersed, and villas scattered over its heights, where many of
the cultured and literary people of Boston and Cambridge spend their
summers. It is 12 M. from Boston by water and 4 M. from Lynn by
land. Crossing the long and narrow sandy isthmus called Lynn Beach,
with the roar of surf continuous on the ocean-front, the rocky ridge
of Little Nahant is passed, and Nahant Bef'.ch extends to the peninsula
proper. Mr. Tudor, who for years supplied Massachusetts ice to the
four qiiarters of the world, and hence is called the '' Ice-King," has fitted
up a pleasant resort for visitors on the north side of Nahant. About 20
acres of picturesqv.c grounds along the sea, adorned with fountains and
shell-work, and commanding a fine view of Lynn and Swampscott, com-
pose this Garden of Maolis (Siloam). Entrance fee, 25 cts. A good
fish or clam dinner may l)e luid in the Maolis pavilions. Among the
jagged and savage-browed cliffs of Nahant are numberless curious forma-
tions of tlie rock, named asfoUows : John's Peril, 24 deep chasm in the
cliffs, on the north, and near Nahant Beach ; the Spouting Horn, where
the surf dashes through a long, rocky tunnel into a cavern, and there is
spouted forth with great force ; Castle Rock, a massive and regular pile
of rock, faintly resembling some ancient castle-keep ; Caldron Clitf and
Roaring Cavern are grandly resonant in time of storms ; Natural Bridge,
ftU arch of rock spanning a narrow, tide-swept fissure ; Pulpit Rock ; and
Sappho's Rock. The three last-named are on East Point, the site of the
vast hotel, of which a relic remains, in the shape of a pretty little classic
building on the outermost promontory, which looks like an ancient Greek
shrine on some cliff of the yEgean, and which really was a billiaul-
saloon.

22 Route 2.

ENVIRONS OF BOSTON.

On the S. shore is Swallows' Cave, a cavern 72 ft. deep, increasing
fronj 10 ft. wide and 5 ft. high to 14 ft. wide and 20 ft. high. Near the
tall rock arch called Irene's Grotto is the steamboat landing. N. E.
of the peninsula, and well out in Nahant Bay, Egg Rock rises sharply
from the sea to the height of 8G ft., and is crowned by a lighthouse.
Many old traditions cluster around Nahant, which is said to mean " Lov-
ers' Walk."

" The temperature of Nahant, heing moderate J by sea breezes, so as to be cooler
in summer and milder in winter than the mainland, is regarded as being highly
condueive to healtli. It is (U^lightlul in summer to ramble round this romantio
peninsula, and tf) examine at leisure its interesting curiosities ; to hear the waves
rippling the culored pebbles of the beaches, and sec them gliding over the ])ro-
jecting ledges in lanciful cascades ; to behold the ]ilovers and sandpipers running
along the lieaciies, the seal slumbering upon the outer rocks, the white gulls
soaring overhead, the porpoises ]mrsuing their rude gambols along the shore, and
the curlew, the loon, the black duck, and the coot, the brant, with his dapple(l
neck, and the oldwile, with her strange, wild, vocal melody, swimming gracefully
in the coves and rising and sinking with the swell of the tide. The moonlight even-
ings here are exceedingly lovely ; and the phosphoric radiance of the billows, on
favorable nights (making the waters look like a sea of lire) exhibits a scene of
wonderful beauty." — Lewis.

The xvoute to Hull, Hingham, et.c. So many are the routes by water
to the South Shore that the islands in that part of the harbor will be
spoken of without regard to any special course.

S. Boston is first passed on the right, and then Fort Winthrop, near
which, due E. of S. Boston, is Castle Island. Fortifications were built
here in 1G34, " to make many shots at such ships as shall offer to enter
the harbor without their good leave and liking ; it is of very good use
to awe any insolent persons, that, putting confidence in their ships and
sails, shall offer any injury to the people, or contemn their government;
and they have certain signals of alarms (cannon and lights on Beacon Hill)
which suddenly spread through the whole country." At the coronation
of King William, the battery was called Castle William, and was much
strengthened by the British, until at the evacuation of Boston they de-
stroyed it. It was repaired by the Americans in time to fire a 13-gun
salute for the surrender of Burgoyne (1777). In 1798, President John
Adams being present, it was named Fort Independence, and ceded to the
United States. The present fort was but lately completed.

In 240 years the little mud fort, passing through the gradations of a
wooden i)alisade' and a brick "castle," has developed into a granite fort-
ress of great power and destructive force. S. E. of Castle Island is Spec-
tacle Island, where are carried the dead horses from Boston, and farther
S. is Thompson's Island, which bears the State Farm School, — a noblo
institution, where the neglected street arabs and poor orphans of theStato
are cared for. Well-fed and clothed, they are employed in farming in tho
warmer months, and schooling in the winter, and at the age of twenty-
one receive a suit of clothes and one hundred dollars. Eastward of

ENVIRONS OF BOSTON.

noiite 2. 23

Thompson's is Long Island (wlioro the steamer stops), the site of a large
hotel once very popular. On the high bluffs of this island is an iron
lighthouse whicli can be seen from 15 M. off at sea. A powerful bat-
tery is being built by the General Government at the head of Long Island.
E. of the battery is the reef of Nix's Mate, with a massive pyramid of
stone and iron 32 ft. high, warning seamen of a dangerous shoal. In 1636
** Nixes ilande " covered 12 acres, and it long served as a place to execute
pirates and murderers. The legend reports that Captain Nix was killed
by his mate, and that the latter was executed on this spot, declaring his
innocence, and prophesying that the island would wash away in proof of
it. The fact that but one acre of shoal, and a low, narrow ledge of rocks
remain, is thought to help the legend very much.

S. E. of Long Island, and 7 M. from Boston, is Rainsford's Island,
where a hospital was locrted in 1 "38, which is still in operation. Gal-
loup's Island, to the N. , is one of the Quarantine Stations. Still farther
E., on George's Island, stands Fort Warren, a powerful fortress of the
first class, called the key of Boston Harbor. It was built between 1833
and 1850, of hammered Quincy granite with powerful water-batteries. Dur-
ing the Rebellion many Confederate chiefs were imprisoned in its case-
mates, the most noted of whom were Mason and Slidell, taken from the
British mail-steamer " Trent," Nov. 8, 1861, by Capt. Wilkes, of the
U. S. frigate " San Jacinto." The British government made a peremptory
demand, and President Lincoln finally surrendered these rebel commis-
sioners, who went to Europe in January, 1862. 2 miles E. of Fort War-
ren, on a small islet at the entrance of the harbor, stands the massive
stone shaft of Boston Light. This structure occupies the site of the
lighthouse established in 1715, and is furnished with a powerful revolving
light nearly 100 ft. above the sea. To the N. is a cluster of rocky
islets, and to the E. is the Bug Light, over Harding's Ledge, where 6 well-
braced, slender iron pillars uphold a small house, over which is a fixed
red light. *

Hull {several good hotels),
a small village under the lee of a high hill, crowned by a marine observa-
tory, is much visited dui'ing the summer. The to^vn of Hull occupies the
great natural breakwater which nins N. and W. fram the South Shore,
and guards the harbor. Its population is small, and its alertness in
political campaigns, joined with its practical insignificance therein, do
not *"ail to draw forth much good-humored jesting from the Bostonians.
The load to the outer beach leads near Point Allerton (from Isaac Aller-
ton, an adventurous Pilgrim, who cruised the coast of Maine in the barque
" Wliite Angel" for several years, early in the 17th century). The road
now leads out on Nantasket Beach, a line of hard and surf-beaten wliite
sand, 4 M. long. The bathing here is very fine, and driving is easy and

24 Rmte 2.

ENVIRONS OF BOSTON.

pleasant at low tide. At the south end of the beach are several hotels.
(* Rockland House, — $ 4.50 per day, $25.00 per week, — a palatial edi-
fice, ^ M. from the landing; Atlantic House, 50 to 60 guests, — $3.00
a day, $15.00 to $18.00 a week, — finely situated on a bluff near the
water. )

This part of the beach is distant ;^ M. from the steamboat landing (12
to 13 M, from Boston), and 2 M. from the South Shore Railroad (18 M.
from Boston). Fine views are obtained from the bluffs ; the harbor islands
in the W., a broad cxjianso of ocean to the E., and at night 11 coast-
lights may be seen, extending from Minot's Ledge to Cape Ann. Parts
of Boston, Lynn, Nahant, and Quincy may be seen on a clear day.

Steamers for Hull, Nantasjket, and Ilingliam leave Liverpool Wharf,
Boston, twice daily in summer.

Hingham is a curious old village, near Nant sket, and S. of the har-
bor, which was settled in 1635, and was often ravaged during the In-
dian wars. Its first pastor came from Hingham, in England, and gave
its name to the stniggling colony. Situated amid tine coast-scenery, but
12 M. (by water) from Boston, this "Marine Old Hadley" drew many
visitors, and its large hotel, the Old Colony House (burned in Octo-
ber, 1872) was well patronized. A quaint edifice on the main st. near
the Railroad Station, built nearly square, with the roof sloping steeply
up OTi 4 sides to a balustraded platform, surmounted by a narrow- pointed
belfry, is " the oldest church in Yankeedom." It was built in 1681,
for the Congregational Society of Hingham, who still use it.

Be'iiind the church is the * old graveyard, covcrnif? a finely terrac^ed hill, and
contiiiuing hundreds of ancient stones. In tlift southern part is a plain and grace-
ful obeAisk of granite, on which are inscribed tlie names of 76 soldiers of Hing-
ham who died in the war for the Union. On tlie highest hill, on a mound
surrounded by a circular earthwork, is a tall obelisk of granite "To the early
settlers of Hingham." Elsewhere rests, in an unmarked grave, John Albion An-
drew, the great war-governor of Massachusetts, wlio, during the battle-years
1861 - 05, did more than any other man to raise, equip, and forward to t!i.c field
the immense levies of troops from tliis State. He was distinguished for fervid
eloquence, great executive ability, and tender provision for the disabled soldiers.
He died in 18G7. Near the entrance to the cemetery is the tomb of Beiyamin
Lincoln, a major-general in the Continental Army, second in connnand of the
Army of the North which captured Burgoyne. commander of the Army of the
South, 1778-80, repulsed from Savannah and Stono Ferry. After enduring a
siege of 6 weeks at Charleston (spring of 1780), he was forced to surrender to
Sir Henry Clinton. Having been exchanged, he commanded the centre at York-
town, and was Secretary of War, 1781-8'!. He died at Hingham, his birthplace
(1733), in 1810.

Ebenezer Gay, pastor of Hingham, 1718-87, delivered the famous sermon
called the "Old Alan's Calendar" on his eighty-lifth bii-thday. W. A. Gay, the
artist, born at Hingham in 1821, was long a (liscij)le of Troyon, of Paris, and is
now celebrated for liis tine paintings of coast-scenery and marine life.

Charlestowu {Prescott House) is a city of Middlesex County, N. of
Boston, and united with it by 2 bridges over the Charles River. Its pop-
ulation is 28,330. Soon after crossing the river a small .^square is reached,

ENVIRONS OF BOSTON.

Route 2.

where extensive domed iMiildings on the Uift were fornu'ily occupied as
the Waverley Hotel. Near this is the City Hall, in which is a fine lilnary
and reading-room. Main St., to the right, leads to the United States
,vy Yard, covering over 100 acres, and separated from the city by a
het>'y stone-wall, 16 ft. high. A sea-wall extends along the water-front,
broken only by a few wharves rmd a great dry-dock, built of hammered
granite, 341 ft. long and 80 ft. wide, and costing nearly S 700,000.
V\arious construction-depots, magazines of naval stores, barracks, and
work-shops are in the yard; also 4 large ship-houses, and a granito-
bnilt rope- walk, \ M. long. In one of the ship-houses is the old line-of-
battle-ship " Virginia" (designed for 120 guns), which has been on the
itocks for nearly half a century,

Charlestown has a handsome soldiers' monument, — on a tall pedestal, a
figure of America crowning r(!j)resentatives of the Army and Navy, who
stand below her. In the house near Bunker Hill Monument is a tine
statue of Gen. Josei)h Warren, who was killed on tiie Hill.

On Prison Point are the extensive buildings of tlie Massachusetts State
T'rison, of solid granite and iron, finely ventilated and warmed, and sup-
plied with chapels, school-rooms, hosi)itals, &c., in such manner as to
make it a model prison. The convicts are kept busily envployed in mak-
ing furniture, upholstery, shoes, whips, stone and iron work, and are
under perfect discipline.

Not far from the prison is an ancient cemetery, where a simple and mas-
sive granite shaft has been erected by Harvard alumni^ to the mi.raory of
John Harvard, the early benefactor of th« University.

The principal attraction of Charlestown is * Bunker Hill Mom. nent,
a lofty obelisk on the site of the battle of Breed's Hill (1775). It is built
of 90 courses of Quiucy gi-anite, is 221 ft. in lieiglit, and i^O ft, square
at the base. A spiral flight of 295 steits, ranged around a hollow cone,
leads to a chamljcr 11 ft. in diameter, witli windows on each side.
Above is the apex-stone, Aveighing 2^ tons. (A small fee, 20 cts., is charged
for admission. Books about the monument, &c., sold in the porter's lodge).

The *view from the top is glorious. From the S. E. window the
Navy Yai'd is seen, with all its manifold activities, — its sliip-houses,
dry-dock, rope-walk, and frigates. Beyond this is the confluence of the
Charles and Mystic Rivers, and East Boston ; above which is Fort War-
ren at George's Island at the mouth of the liarbor. Forts Winthrop
and Independence, and the archipelago of variously utilized islands whicJi
dot the liarbor, all are visible from tliis point. From the S. W,
window is seen the city of Boston, with Coj)p's Hill nearest on the 1.
and the spires and domes of its church and state buildings rising on all
sides. The great network of the northern railroads and higliways crosses
Charles River below, while, beyond the city, the southern and western
2

26 Jioute 2.

ENVIRONS OF BOSTON.

roads pinor^'o. Farther still, on tlie r., is S. Boston, and over it,
Qnincy, Dorchcsttn-, and the l)lue hills of Milton. Over Boston are Ilox-
bury and Brool<!ine, and directly hclow are the houses of Charlestown.
From the N. W. window, the State Prison, f'jiinbridf:^e, and Brighton,
the McLean Asylum, the Harvard 0])servatory, the city of Somerville,
Arlington, and MiMlford. It is said that, in very clear weather, with a
strong glass, may bo seen Mt. Wachusett (over Cambridge), and succes-
sively to the r., Mt. Monadnock, Kearsarge, and the White Mts. in
New Hami»shire. From the N. E., Everett, and Revere with its beach,
the city of Chelsea, with tho U. S. Marine Hospital, and, over it, tho
city of Lynn. Nahant runs into tho sea to the r.

The corner-stone of this stiitoly iiionnnicnt was laid in 1825 hy Genpral La
Fayette, on tho flftiotli nniiiversary of tlio l)attlc. It was (completed in 1842, ami
d«Mlicate«l on i\\v, sixty-eiKlith anniversary of the l)attle, in tlie prescMce of I'nsi-
(li-iit Tyler and his (cabinet, and witli an oration liy Daniel Wol)ster. In the upj»er
clianiber are two cannon, nanie<l "Hancock" an<l "Adams," eaeh inscribed,
" This is one of four cannons which constitutcul tlie whole train of tleld-artillery
nosst'Hsod 1 7 tlie Britisii colonies of North America at the conimenceinent of the
war, tm the 10th of April, 1775. This cannon and its fellow, belonging to a num-
ber of citizens of Boston, were used in many engagements during the war. The
other two, the property of the Government of Massachusetts, were taken by the
enemy."

Battle of Bunker HilL

" In their raffsrcd regimentals
Stood tl\e old Continentals,

Yieldinij not.
When the grenadiers were lunging,
And like hail fell the plunging
Cannon-shot ;
Wlicre the flies
Of the isles
From the smoky night-encampment bore the banner of the rampant unicorn,
And grunnner.grummcr, gruninier, rolled the roll of the drummer through the morn."

After an impressive prayer by President Langdon, of Harvard College, on a
starry night of June, 1775, Colonel Prescott led a thousand men to Bunker Hill.
His hu'ce was compo.sed of troojjs from Essex, Middlesex, and Connecticut, with
Gridley's artillery. His orders were to fortify the hill, but a (!ouncil of officers of
the detachment changed the jtlan, and they occnipied Breed's Hill, as much nearer
IJoston and more surely commanding the roads to the north. The work was
eonnncnced at midnight, under the supervision of General Gridlcy, an old veteran
of the ijouisboi'.g and Canadian wars, and by dawn they had comjjleted a rcdoul)t
132 It. s(iuare and G ft. high. The frigates in Charles River first saw it, and
opened a tremendous lire, which awoke all Boston. The batteries on Copp's Hill
then opened tire, and at noon 2,000 pictked men from the British garrison crossed
tlie river. Tlie New England flag (blue, with St. George's Cross on the pine-tree
emblem) was hoisted over the redoubt, and the 1st and 2d New Hampshire rein-
forcetl tlie weary provincials. At 2 o'clock 2,000 more soldiers crossed from B(.s-
ton, and s<ion after, after a furious cann<made from Copp's Hill and the fleet, the
British column advanced. Gen. Putnam ordered the Americans to hold their
lire until they could s«'e the. whites of the assailants' eyes ; f.iid 1500 silent and
determined men waited till that appointed time, and then llred. " Whole platoons
of the British regulars were laid upon the earth, like grass by the mower's scythe.
Other deadly volleys followed, and the enemy, disconcerted, broke, and fled
toward the water." While they rallied, the Copp's Hill guns showered hot shot
and carcasses on Charlestown. 200 houses soon were burning, and under cover of
dense masses of smoke the royai forces advanced again. The volley at short
range, the carnage, and the 1 'ght of the British, was repeated. The American
ammunition was now exhausted, the presence of floating batteries raking Charles-

ENVIRONS OP BOSTON.

Rnvle 2. 27

town Neck prcvptitcd ritlirr rcinforf emonts or fresh st»i)]ilic.^from rciuliiiif,' tliciu ;
ami t\w Uritisli, lin.ivily rtMiilbrced, and niiulcleni'il by their Ioshch, udvaiicfil a
third tinio. Tii«' outworks, swept by the nhot from the fleet, wore nimndoned, nncl
wlien the f';renadiprs rose upon the i)ariipet of the redoubt, they were reeeiveil
by ft Hhower of stones, and eonfronted by men with rhibbed muskets. Hoom Put-
nam ordered a retreat, whicli was covered admirably l>y the troops of New Hami)-
Bhire and Connecticut. Hut tlie reserves on Hunker Hill, the rear-^'uard, and tlm
shattered garrison from Hreed's Hill, w(ue unequal to further efl'ort, and thero
ensued aneuoral (Ichnnihulu acro.ss the cannon-swept ('harlestown Neck. The day
was ended ; and although Howe soon moved the bulk of his army on these hills,
which he stron^dy fortilled, no further combats were seen here. In the battle of
the 17th of June, the Americans lost 115 killeil, H05 wounded, and 30 prisoners ;
the Hritish lost 2'2() killed, 8.JS wounded (Game's rei)ort). 40i) houses were burnt
in Cliarlestown, and 5 cannon were taken on JJunker Hill. During' the retre.it
from the redoubt, Putnam swore frightfully at his men, and after the war, sin-
cerely confessin;^ it to the chundi of which ho was a nu'iuber, he added, " It wa.s
almost cnou;;h to make an an;,'el swear, to see the cowards refuse to secure a vic-
tory so nearly won." AmouH the last to leave the hill was Warren, and ere he.
had gone far he was killed by a siiot in the heail. Josepli Warren, born Koxbury,
174t», was the head of the medical profession in Boston, and a wise and patriotic;
leader of the people. He was the President of tlie ProviiKual Congress, a mn,jor-
general of the army, and (Irand Master of the Ma.sonic Order in America. " lln
fell with a luimerous baml of kindred sjiirits -the gray-haired veteran, the strip-
ling in the flower of yoiitli — will) had stood side by side on that dreadful (lay,
and fell together, like the beauty of Israel in their high places." — Everett.

Chelsea (Winnisimmet), {Citj/ Hotel), a city of 18,547 inhabitants, is
connected witli Boston by a steam fen'y (IjJ M.), and with Charlestowu
by a long l)ridge over the Mystic River. The Naval Hospital and the U.
S. Marine Hosi)ital, tlie latter a large and stately Ijuilaing, are here. Near
the Railroad Station is a Soldiers' Monument, — a shat>, of granite with a
statue of a soMier standing at ease upon its summit. Woodlawn Ceme-
tery is about 2 M. from the city, and is approached by a graceful ave-
nue, leading through a lofty Gotliic gateway. The Rock Tower, to tlie
right, is a rude pile of boulders, 78 ft. in diameter and 30 ft. high,
from which a pretty view is obtained. Netherwood and Wooilside Aves.
form beautiful vistas, with the quiet grace of American cemeteries on
every hand. Netherwood Pond, the views from Chapel and Elm Hills,
and the curious Ginko trees, are worthy of attention.

Chelsea (Revere) Beach.

Horse-cars from Boston hourly in summer. The Eastern Railroad runs near
th5 shore, with stations at Revere {\% M. off) and Oak Grove (J M.). Hotels.
Atlantic House and several .smaller, near the horse-car station ; Revere House,
f M. north ; Ocean House, on Pine Point, '2 M. north of hoi-se-car station.

Revere Beach is about 5 M. from Boston, and is much visited by
the citizens on Sundays and holidays. It is a wide, snK>oth, hard, san<iy
bhore, 3 M. long, well adapted for driving or walking. Being shel-
tered by Nahant, Avhich lies about 5 I\I. olf shore, and by Winthrop
Bluffs on the south, it has but a moderate surf. Pitie Point, its northern
extremity, faces the city of Lynn and the openings of Saugus River into
Lynn Harbor.

28 Route 2.

ENVIRONS OF BOSTON.

• t

111

Lexington and Concord.

Thfl ff)rmrr villaxf is renchofl by trains on tho FjCxiriKti'ii riranrli Railroad, from
the Hosfoii a!i(l l/nvcU Dcjm)!, in'40 Id M niiiiutps. IJy tlio fall of 187.'< tin- rail-
road will iirnhahlv lit; cxti-ndcd fo ('<•;, lurd. At prcscut, Concord is reached lijr
the trains oft. i^ FiUdibiirg Railroad in 1 hr.

Lexington (Mnnvment J/ouse)^ a (luiet and pretty village 12 to 1.5
M. N. W. of Boston, is built on one long street, terminating on the
west in a broad green, on which is a plain niouunient, more solid than
graceful, in memory of 8 men killed here during the battle.

Concord (Middlesex llotd), near the tran(iuil Concord River, and
the junction of the Assabet and Sudbury Rivers (so-called), is a liand-
somo village of about 2,500 inhabitants, and about 20 M, from Boston.
In 1G35 I'eter Bulkley, of St. .Folin's (Jollege, Cambridge, and 21 years
rector of Odell, was silenced by Archbishop Laud, and Ihid to America.
In 163G he purchased of the Indians a tract of land at Musketafjuid, and
founded the town and church of Concord, .so-named from the peacefiil
manner of its ac(]uisition. Bulkley wrote some Latin poems and Puritan
theological theses, and "was as remarkable for benevolence and kind deal-
ing as for strict virtue."

But it is during the inesent rentnry that the lives of three of the foremost
literary men of Anuirica liavo made Concord famous. Ilcnry D. Thoreau (H.
U., 1H'J7), an eccentric yet i)rof(nnid scholar and naturalist, in 1845 built
himself a hut on the shores of the st<«incstered Waldcn Pond (I M. H. E. of
the village), where he led a retduse lite, raising a few vc,i;ct;ilih'S, and oceasi •<-
ally siu'vcying or cariientcrinj,' to get money for his slij.'lit expenses. He r
voted, never entered a church, never i)aitl a tax. rnd'onndly skilled in c)
and Oriental literature, and an anient naturalist, his (diicf delight was to i
long i)edestrian excursions to the forests and lakes and ocean-shores of New
England. Of himself he said, " I am as unlit for any practical pnrjio.sc as gossa-
mer is for ship-timber." " Thoreau dedicated his genius, with such entire love, to
the fields, hiil.-». and waters of his native town, that he made them known and in-
teresting to all. He grew to be revered and admired by his townsmen, who had
at llrst known him only as an oddity."— Emkuson. He died in 1800, leaving bin
great work unlinished, and his only remains are several quaint and charming
books of travel.

Ralph Waldo Emerson (H, U., 1821), "the sage of Concord," or, as Fredrika
13remer calls him, " the Sphinx in Concord," is the head of the .school of
transcentlental philosophy in America and in the world. Descended from
seven generations of ministers, and himself sometime a minister, in early life
he joined, and since has led, the mo.st advanced and rcftned school of modern
transcendental philosophy. His writings are " distinguished for a singular union
of poetic imagination with practical acuteness," and also by a remarkable pungency
and compressed Ion e. During his visits to Europe much honor has been sTiown
him, ami many of the greatest mimls of the century have visited "the pretty little
idyllian city of Concord " (Bukmkii) to hold interviews with him. Thoreau, G. W.
Curtis, in his residence at Concord in 1844 - 45, and Hawthorne have been his
Iriends at home. (The old Emerson homestead was burnt, July 24, 1872, shortly
after which the philosopher went to Europe for a long absence.)

Nathaniel Hawthorne (Bowdoiu College, 1825), whose excpiisite prose composi-
tion is world-renowned, lived at Concord in 1843 - 4U, and here wrote the " Mosses
from an Old Manse." (See Salem, Mass.)

The Battle of Concord and Lexington.

At midnight, April 18, 1775, General Gage sent 800 grenadiers and light infantry

T K

KNVrUONS OK BOSTON.

JluuU C.

to iloHtroy tlio iiiilitiiry Htoros rolloctc*! hy the Ainorli'ans ftt Coiuoril. " At first

(Ik* w1i<i|( iDimtry n|i|it'!UL'<l lmiit'<l in a Ki-ncnil slofp till tlio tle«!|» tones

ol'ii (listaut (hiircli-lH'll came swt't'pinK ilown tli*- valley in wlii<'': kiK^ luarclied,

riiiL^in;^' jtcal on jM-al, in tlu; (inii'k, s|>irlt-HtiiTiii|^' sniinds of an alarm ]l«>ll

Ix'^aii to answer bell in every tlireetion Ilre-i l)laz(Ml alun^' the lieiu'lit-s, the

lie||n\vin({ of tilt! eoiichs ami horns min;^'leil with the rattling' of the muskets and
tlie various toiiosof the hells " (Cooi'ku), ami when the troops deployed on Lexing-
ton (Jreen, at dawn, 1<K) militiamen eontnuited them. " Dispei-se, ye rebeU,
tlirow down your arms, and dispei-se ! " eried the Hritisli eommaiuler, I'iteairn. A
volley fi'om the li;,dit iufantiy broke the line wliieh refused to obey l'it<'airn's or-
der, and under the smoke of the llrst shots of tiie War of Independenee eijj;ht
Americans lay dead on the K^'eii. Now ]»y a raj)iil march the invaders oceu]iied
Concord, <1 M. distant, and dtsstroyed such of the military stores as hatl not
bicn removed. Meanwhile, loo minute-men hail ^'atherecl near the north bridj^e,
1 M. from the Common, and soon they attacked and drove away :< companies
r light infantry detailed to ^mir^' 't. "pon which tin; retreat to Hoston WM
ordered. All military order anion;,' the provincials was at an end ; minute-men
were collecting froni all jioints ; from every house, barn, and stone-wall gnnn
were tired with sure aim ; and the red nniforms of dead and woumled regulars
strewed tin; long jo.id. ^ M. E. of Lexington church, tlio remnant of the de-
tachment was reinl'orc(^d by Lord Percy, with :i reginu^nts, 2 divisions of marines,
ami a battery. Tho jtitile.s.s i>rovincials worried them until they reaehe<l Prospect
Ildl, ill Cambridge, where 7<H) men of Essex, with the militia of Dorchester and
lloxbury, stoippcd, and held the tlower of the Hritisli army until Percy's artil-
lery drove them from the tleld, and the noble Northumbrian led his shattered
rolumns on Jiunker Hill, under protection of the fleet. On this nienioruble day,
tiu! royal forces lost 0.'< killed, ISO wtmnded, and 28 prisoners ; while the Americans
lust j'J killed, 'M wounded, and 5 missing.

Ca!nbrid--e.

W. of Boston (lior.se-car.s from Bo^\'loi^l Stj.) is the ancient academic
city of Caniliridge, on tlie Chailes Iliver. About 3.^ M. from Boston are
tJie spacious grounds and buildings of Harvard University.

Cambridge was settled shortly after Boston, imder the name of Newtown. In
KWO, the legislature of Mas.sachusett.s (then, and occasionally now, called the
(ieneral Coui-t) voted £400 for the establishment of a school liere. In KWS John
Harvard, the young pastor of Charlestown (from Emanuel College, in Old Cam-
liridge,), died, leaving to the young school his library and about £800 in money.
Then the General Court advanced the school into a college, and named it Harvard,
changing also the name Newtown into Cambridge, in memory of the old univer-
Hity town where, and especially at Emanuel College, so many of the founders of
the new State had studied. In 1G40 Charlestown Ferry was made an appanage
t)f the College ; in 1G42 its llrst class graduated ; and in l<i50 the " President and
Fellows of Harvard College " were incoi-jiorated. Endowments and gifts now
flowed in from the province and its citizens, and the young college becune the
jiride of New England. In KiOO, of 121 clergj'uien in the eleven counties nearest
to Cambridge, 104 were graduates of Hai-vard. Many of the political leaders of
the War of Independence were educated here, — Samuel Adams (class of 1740),
James Otis (1743), Artenias Ward, first commander of the army (1748), John Han-
cock (1754), Joseph Warren (1759). In May, 170i>, on the occupation of Boston
bv royal troops, the legislature refused to sit " with British cannon pointing at
tfieir doors," so they adjourned to the college buildings. In 1775 the students
were sent home, and the classic halls were turned into barracks for the Continen-
tal soldiers. The library and apparatus were sent to Andover and Concord. The
headquarters of the American army of investment was near the College, and the
army numbered 16,000 men in June, 1775. Of these, 11,500 were fVoni Alassachu-
setts, 2,300 from C',':vuC"ticut, 1,200 froni New Hampshire, and 1,000 from Rhode
Island. The left wing, under Ward, consisting of 15 Massachusetts regiments and
Gridley's artillery, lay at Cambridge. Later, Knox brought 55 cannon from the
Lake Forts, and the New York volunteers and Morgan's Virginia riflemen joined

30 Route 2.

ENVIRONS OF BOSTON.

lii',

J ''

the camp. The 10,000 royal troops in Boston were environed by 20 miles of can-
toiiments, stretfhiiig from the Mystic River to Roxbury. Tlionias. with 4,000
Massacliusetts troojis, and 4 companies of artillery, held the Roxbury lines ; the
Rhode Island men were at Janiai(;a Pliin with Sjiencer's Connecticut rej-'iment.
Tlie New IJiiinpshini brigade was at Mcidford, and Putnam, with a Connecticut
brigadi!, held Charlestown Nccl\ and }>icivetto(i Bunlier Hill. The siege was
hardly over, and the College in order once mori;, when tin grer.t capt've army oJ
iJui'goyne was led to Cambridge (Nov. 10, 1777). The government ordered the
college to l)e vaciated, for the accommodation of the British and Hessian oliicei-s.
Hut tlie ■'vllcgiate authorities, feeling that enough had already been sacrificed by
llic'i'i in the i;ause of freedom, sent in such a spirited protest that the order was
reconsid'3Vcd, and the i)risoner!; encamjied on Winter and Vrospect Hills until
1779, when they were sent to Charlottesville, Virginia.

In 1639 the first Nov/ England printing-press was set up here, and for its
first works printed tlie "Freeman's Oath," "The New England Alma-
nac," and +,he "Bay Psalm Book." At presei^t the vast University and
Riverside Presses turn out hundreds of thousands of volumes yeai'ly.

Margaret Fuller, Countess D'Ossoli, was l)om at Can bridge, 1810. A fine
linguist and conversationalist, she became an enthusiastic tianscendentalist, and,
after writing several oooks, and sjjending some time in Europe, she married Count
d'Ossoii, but was wrecked and h)st on tlio New Jersey coast, returning, in 1850.

Oliver Wendell Hobius was born at Cambridge, ISOI). A skilful jthysician, lec-
turer, and mi(;rosc(>pist, he has been Professor of Anatomy and Physiology in
Harvard University sinci; 1847, and has foimd time to write many pleasant essays
and humorous i)oems, besides two or three novels and numerous metlical lectures
and dissertation.5.

James Russell Lowell was born at Cambriv'.ge, in 1S19. After ^v'riting several
volumes of poetry, and spending some years in Europe, he returned, and succeeded
Mr. Loi ,, fellow as Professor of Modern Languages, &c., in Harv.ird University.
He has published "The Biglow Pai)ers " (two series), — a jujlitical satire in the
New England vernacular ; " The Cathetlnil," and " Under the Willows," his later
poems ; and several volumes of prose.

F. H. Hedge, the Unitarian theologian. Alfred Lee, Bishop of Delaware, and
Rear-Admiral Charles H. Poor, were born in Cambridge.

" Harvard College was founded at Cambridge only ninety years later than the
greatest and wealtluest college of our Cambridge in Old England. Puritan Har-
vard is the sister rather than the daughter of our own Puritiin Emanuel. Harvard
himself, and Dunster, the first President of Harvard, were among the earliest of
the scholars of Emanuel. . . . Our English universities have not about them the
classic repose, the air of study, which belongs to Cambridge, Massachusetts ; our
Cambridge comes nearest to her daughter town, but even the English Cambridge
has a breathing street or two, and a weekly market-day, while Cambridge in New
England is one great academic grove, buried in a philosophic calm, which our
universities cannot rival as long as men lesort to them for other pul-poses than
work." — Sir Charles Dilke.

Among the most distinguished of the New-England-born alumni of Harvard
may be named. Increase Mather (class of 1656), Cotton Mather (1C78), John Adams,
second President of the United States (1755), John Quincy Adams, his son, sixth
Piesident of the United States (1787), Fisher Ames (1774), W. E. Channing (1798),
Edward Everett (1811), W. H. Prescott(1811), Jared Sparks and J. G. Palfrey (1815),
Caleb Cushing and George Bancroft (1817), Ralph Waldo Emerson (1821), C. F.
Adams (1825), O. W. Ib)lmes (1829), Charles Sunnier (1830), Wendell Phillips and
J. L. Motley (1831), H. W. Bellows (1832), R. H. Dana, Jr., and H. D. Thoreau
(1837), J. R. Lowell (1838), E. E. Hale (1839).

The buildings of the University are named generally in honor ot its
benefactors. The small brick building on the corner near the horse-car
station contains the Law Library (13,000 volumes) embracing the stand-
ard works on this subject by American, English, French, and German

ENVIRONS OF BOSTON.

Route 2. 31

writors. The law-hall and the professorship were founded by Nathan
Dani3, an eminent Essex County jurist. Tlio 'arge and ornate eilifice next
to Dane Hall is known as Matthews Hall. Doyond this, and at right
ang^ics with it, is Massachusetts Hall, an ancient building wliicli has been
changed into two large loonis, the lower of which is occupied as a read-
ing-room, and is surrounded by 60 to 70 portiaits of notable New Eng-
landers of the last century, among whicli are Samuel Dexter, Frothinq-
ham ; John Quiney Adams, Fisher Ames, Stuart ; Michael Boylston,
Thomas Boylston, President Holyoke, and John Adams, Copley.

John Singleton Copley, the best of American portrait-pr.inters, was bom at
Boston, 17;J7, studieil at Roino, resided at Loudciii 177">-lSi;5. His historical
paintings, of which "The Death of tlie Earl of Chatham" was the most famous,
maile him a Royal Academician in 17S3. His sou was made Lord Lyndhurst.

It is singidar that none of Washington Allston's pictures are here. This artist,
ivho was called "the American Titian," and was famous for richly colored pictures
on religious subjects, after sjiendin;^ 15 years in Europe, established his studio
in Cambridge in 1S25, and here remained until his death in lS-13. He was a South
Carolinian.

Beyond Massachusetts Hall is Harvard Hall, with its sober ornaments
and belfry, and then Hollis and Stoughton Halls, between which, and
nearer the street is the quaint little edifice (said to have been built by
Lady Holden's boimty) which was long used as a chapel, and was built
early in the 18th century. Across the upper end of the quadrangle
stretches the plain old Holworthy Hall, back of which is the Lawrence
Scientific School. Turning now on the otlier side, the first building is
the new, lofty, and ornate Thayer Hall, behind which is the romanesciuo
Appleton Chapel, Beyond Thayer is the simple and substantial Uni-
versity Hall, built of granite, and next comes the modern and Mansard-
roofed Weld Hall. University Hall is the seat of the Univeisity gov-
eniment, which consists of the President aud six Fellows, with a second
branch (Board of Overseers) elected by the alumni. Tlie system of
elective studies and of special scries of lectures is superseding the old
rigid course and text-book plan, and Harvard is accepting the style, as
well as gaining tlie power, of the German universities. Tliere are about
1,200 men in the various departments of study, with 45 professors and
many tutors, &c. Four years' study procures the degree of B. A. ; three
years covers the courses in the Divinity and Medical Schools, and two
years in the Law School. Beyond Weld Hall the fourth side of the quad-
rangle is occupied by the noble Boylston Hall (of granite, with several
collections inside), and the modern Gray Hall. Opposite the wooden
Wadsworth Hall is the Holyoke House (pertaining to the college) and
nearly opposite Massachusetts Hall is the First Churcli, with its venerable
graveyard. Gore Hall, beyond the quadrangle, contains the Unisersity
Library. It is a neat building of Quiney granite, in the form of a Latin
Cross, and in the 14th-century Gothic style, said also to be a sober copy
of King's College Chapel, at Old Cambridge.

32 lioute 2.

ENVIRONS OF BOSTON.

I .

■ >

,k •

Inside there are 10 ooluiuns on each side of a navo 112 ft. hnv^, with a <,n-oinod
roof ;iy ft. hi^di. Alxnit l.'JO.OOO volumes are kept in this hall, besides which the
I liivcrsity has about 70,00.) vohinies in 8 other lil)raries. In glass cases, tlirough-
oiit the hall, are kept many literary curiositiiis : a MS. Ovid of the 14th century ;
letters of Washington ; Aristot' •, in black-hdter Latin MS. ; ancient Greek MSS.
of nipi)ocrates, (Jregoiy Na/ izcn, &c., with Pivangelisterios, Psalters, &c. ; old
Hebrew MS. of Kstiicr (in r< ) ; the Gospels in Latin, 8th century (oldest MS. in
America) ; illuminated Latin missals ; MS. Koran ; Sanscrit and Siamese books
in leaves ; y bcantiful Persian MSS. on silk paper ; book printed in Mexico City,
ITjOO ; Rale's Dictionary of the Al)enaki language, in Iris own writing ; Eliot's
Indian IJible ; Bay Psalm-Book (1640), lirst book i)rinted in America, north of
Mexico ; medals, relics, autographs, &c. Busts of distinguished lueu surround
the hall.

Nearly in line with Gore Hall is Appleton Chapel, recently injured by
fire. The most con.spicuous object about the stjuare is the immense tower
of the * Memorial Hall, a stately edifice now building, whose simple
and massive architecture contrasts strongly with the Renaissance style
of the other new buildings. A beautiful little cloister, at one end of the
Memorial Hall, seems like a token from Old Cambridge. AVithin this
noble building are to be held the Coniniencement exei'cises and alumni
dinners. The Hall is being ervscted by the alumni as a memorial to those
of their number who fell in the War for the Union. Near by, on a
so-called Delta, is the gynniasium, an octagonal structure, while the
i^awrence Scientific School is opi)osite Hohvorthy Hall. Beyond Memo-
lial Hall are the buildings occupied by the Zoological and other museums,
in the vicinity of Divinity Hall, the seat of the Unitarian Theological
Siihool and Library. The E]nscopal Divinity Scliool is near tlie beautiful
little church of St. John. The Observatory and Botanical Gardens are
out on Garden St., beyond the State Arsenal. In front of the colleges,
on the Green, is a monument, erected by the City, in memory of 339
officers and men of Cambridge wlio died in the War for the Union. Far-
tlter on is tlie new and elegant Shepard Memorial Church, erected by the
Congregational ists in honor of Thomas Shepard, an Emanuel College di-
vine, who Wi's pastor at Cambridge from 1035 to 1649, and was one of the
founders and patrons of the college. " Its location at Cambridge was
due to him." In front of the church is the Washington Elm, probably
300 years old. Near it the old Indian councils took place, and, at a later
day, the town-meetings, and under its foliage, July 3, 1775, Washington
assumed command of the armies of America. , . »

A large, old-style house, back from the street, and nearly opposite Gore Hall, is
called the "Bishop's Palace." It was built in 1761-05 by East Apthorp, an
Anglican Bostonian, educated at Old Cambridge, who was sent here as a mission-
ary, and hoped to be appointed Bishop of New England. But the hostility of the
Puritan divines and people was so marked, that he returned to Ejigbiia, and was
given a stall in St. Paul's. In 1777, Burgoyne occupied the house as headquarters
of the captive Anglo-Hessian army. Near Brattle St. is the house where
Baron Riedesel, commander of the division of Brunswiekers, was quartered. The
Baroness, with a diamond, cut her autograph here on a wind(nv-pane, which is
still preserved. Near Brattle St., ou the right, is a stately old colonial mansion.

See page 20.

THE PRINCIPAL PORTIONS OF THE CEMETERY.

1. Entrance.

2. Chapel.

3. Spruce Avenue.

4. Public Lot.

5. Laurel Hill.

6. Walnut Avenue.

7. Mountain Avenue.

8. Mount Auburn Tower.

9. Dell Path.

10. Pine Hill.

11. Central Square. '

12. Cedar Hill.

13. Harvard Hill.

14. Juniper Hill.

15. Temple Hill.

16. Rosemary Path.

17. Jasmine Path.

18. Chestnut Avenue.

19. Poplar Avenue.

20. Auburn Lake.

21. Lime Avenue.

22. Larch Avenue.

23. Halcyon Lake.

24. Forest Pond.

25. Central Avenue.

26. Road to Fresh Poud.

ENVIRONS OV BOSTON.

Jloute 2.

^oud.

above two ten-aces, surrounded by broad lawns and tine elms. Built about the
middle of the last ceutuiy, the house was deserted by its Loyalist owner at the
outbreak of 1775, and then occupied by Washington as headquartera. Here,
through the long winter of the siege, Lady Washincfton often held receptions.
This noble estate is now owned by the jtoet Longfellow.

Henry Wadsworth Longfellow, born in Portland, 1807 (Bowdoin College, 1825),
spent four years (1826 - 30) in Europe, ond then was Professor of Modem Languages
at Harvard University (1835-54). iJesides several prose romances and many
short poems of great power, he has publisheil " Evangeline " (1847.) " The Golden
Legend" (1851), " Hiawatha" (185.5), a translation of Dante's " DivinaCommedia,"
3 vols. (18G7-70), "The Divine Tragedy" (1871), and "Tales of a Wayside Inn,"
lii'st (1863) and second series. Mr. Longfellow is i)erhaps the most popular of
American poets, and is distinguished as a faithful translator, an original and j)ro-
fouiully perceptive poet, and au admirer of the picturesque features in medi&'val
Eurojiean history.

Mount Auburn.

(Horse-cars from Harvard Square in ^ M.. 4 M, distant from Boston.)
A large tract of forest-covered and romantic hills on the banks of the
Charles had long formed a favorite ramble for the students of Harvard,
until, in 1831, it was purcliased by tlie Horticultural Society, and a portion
of it consecrated for a cemetery, with imposing ceremonies. This was
the pioneer of the large rural cemeteries of America, and is but a few years
younger than Pere la Chaise, at Paris. The whole tract of land was soon
bought in from tlie Horticultural Society, and large additions have since
been made, until now it covers 125 acres. The name "Sweet Auburn,"
which the Harvard men had bestowed upon it, was changed to Mount
Auburn. " This tract is beautifully undulating in its surface, containing
a number of bold eminences, steep acclivities, and deep, shadowy valleys,"
and is laid out with broad, curving avenues intersected by foot-paths.
The emblematic iron fence which bounds the front is provided with a mas-
sive granite entrance-gate of Egyptian arcliitecture, (50 ft, long and 25 ft.
high, on whose outside is carved, " Then shall the dust return to the earth
as it was, and the spirit shall return to God who gave it." From the
gate Central Ave. runs to Pine Hill, which overhangs Consecration Dell.
The chapel, not far from the gate, on a hill to the r., is a handsome
Gothic edifice, abounding in pinnacles, and furnished with stained glass
windows from Edinburgh. Inside the chapel are four noble * statues :
Judge Story, by W. W. Story ; John Winthrop, the first colonial gover-
nor, by R S. Greenowfh ; James Otis, the leader of the first aggressions
against British misrule, by Crawford; and John Adams, representing
tlie revolutionary and subsequent constitutional era, by Randolph Rogers.
On Central Ave. is a fine statue of Hosea Ballou, an eminent Univer-
salist divine, of Boston, not far from the statue (in a sitting posture) of
Dr. Bowditch, the mathematician and nautical writer. Fronting the
chapel is a majestic * memorial work (by Milnwre) representing a colos-
sal lion couchant with a calm and heroic female head. The design is
taken from a work executed in the highest perfection of Egyptian art,
2* c

34 Route 2.

ENVIRONS OK BOSTON.

and is a fine personification of tl»e ancient idea of the myotic " one who
outlooks stars and dreanus o'er graves." Hannali Adams, Uie historian of
the Jews, was tlie first person buried in the cemetery, and her humble
monument is still pointed out. Near the end of Central Ave. is the
monument to John Murray, the founder of Universalism in America.
Spurzheim is buried near the Bowditch monument. Near the Ballou
statue on Central Ave. is the monument erected to W. F. Harnden,
founder of the express business, by tiie express-companies of the United
States. Under a canojty of granite is a large stone safe with bas-reliefs,
supported on bronze claws, alongside of which a marble watch-dog lies.
On Mount Auburn, the highest i)oint of the cemetery, stands a massive
and graceful granite tower, fron? whose top an extensive * view is enjoyed.
Tlie rich valley of the Cliarles is in full sight, from the villa-covered heights
of Watertown to the widenings whicli are lined by the palaces on the
Back Bay at Boston. The rural roads of Brookline are in the S., and
over and beyond them rise the high hills of Milton. In tlie E. is Cam-
bridge and the ancient walls of Harvard University, while a , succession
of bright villages stud t'le country to the N. and W.

For the rest, the tranquil and shaded walks of the cemetery are lined
with thousands of monuments, of every form and style, from simple tab-
lets to costly and beautiful statues. Pretty lakelets diversify the surface
of the dells, and platoons of obelisks rise along the hills. The gateway,
the chapel, sphinx, and tower, are the ivrincipal objects to be seen.
Hours may be spent in pleasant rambling through the other avenixes,
passing the graves of scores of local celebrities and magnates of Massa-
chusetts. If the visitor wishes to know how to do Moiint Auburn minute-
ly, " Dearborn's Guide "may be bought at the gate.

N. of Mount Auburn about f M., is Fresh Pond, a pretty sheet of blue
water, winding under the shadow of wooded hills, with villages on its
banks. The Fresh Pond Hotel is favorably situated on its shore. 2 to
3 M. N. is Spy Pond (pleasant hotel), the ice from whose clear am spark-
ling waters is much used in Boston during the summer heats. S. W.
of Mount Auburn, on the banks of the Charles, is the United States Arse-
nal, covering 40 acres, where great amounts of munitions of war are stored.
About 1 M. beyond, also on the river, is the village of Watertown, 8 M.
from Boston, on the Fitchburg Railroad. Early in the 17th century a
nomadic church from this place founded Wethersfield, Conn. In 1643
Massachusetts sent four Puritan missionaries to convert Anglican Vir-
ginia. The Cavaliers drove them oft", and Knowles, the Watertown pas-
tor, went to England, and ])reached in Bristol Cathedral several years.
John Sherman, pastor here 1(347-85, bears on his tombstone,

" In Sherman's lowlj' grove ore lain
The heart of Paul, and Euclid's bruin.

ENVIllONS OF BOSTON.

Haute 2.

Harriet G. Hosmer, tl'c foremost of female sciili)t()r8, waa hnvn at Watertown
in 1830. After long anatomical studies, she went t* Rome in I8a'J, and has since
lived there. Most of her works are retained in Italy and En^dand. Ifer most re-
markable i)ie('es are " ZenoViia in Chains," "The Sleeiting Faun," "i'uek," ami
" Beatrice Cenci."

S. of Watertown is the town of Newton, with several villages, in-
habited mostly by men doing busines.s in Boston. Brighton (Cattle-Fair
Hotel, Bnr/hton Hotel, Riverside, kc), E, of Newton, ha.s the largest
cattle-market in New England, The day of market is Wednesday, when
Brighton presents a lively sight.

S. E. of Brighton is tlie town of Brookline, famous for the suburban
residences of Boston merchants. Near the station of the New York and
New England Railroad is the principal village, with the ornate and attrac-
tive stone town-house, near which is a neat public-library building. Within
this town is Brookline Reservoir, witli a capacity of 120,000,000 gallons of
water. Here terminates tlie long and sinuous brick culvert, running from
Lake Cochituate, in Natick, wliich is here supplemented by iron mains,
which carry the water into Boston. 1 M. distant is the great Chest-
nut Hill Reservoir (5 M, from Boston City Hall), with a capacity of
800,000,000 gallons. The most popular drive about Boston is that to
and around Chestnut Hill Reservoir. Jamaica Pond, near the village
of Jamaica Plain, and K of Brookline, gave the first water-supply to
Boston. From 1795 to 1840 it was carried through the city in hollow
pine logs. In 1851 this was stopped, and now villas and immense ice-
houses line the shores. Tn Jamaica Plain (where encamped the Rhode
Island forces, the best equipped and disciplined in the army, in 1775 -70),
is a fine monument to the soldiers of West Roxbury who were killed in
the War for the Union. § M. from this village is the large cemetery
of Forest Hills. (Horse-cars to and from Boston, also Providence
Railroad.) It is entered by a large and elegant turreted Gothic gate-
way of stone, bearing the inscriptions, " I am the Resurrection and the
Life," and, " He that keepeth thee will not slumber." Near the gateway
to the 1. is the fmest receiving-tomb in New England, with a Gothic
})ortico of granite, of imposing size and form. On Mount Warren Gen.
.Joseph Warren is buried ; on Mount Dearborn, Gen. U, A. S. Dearborn,
This cemetery is larger and plainer than Mount Auburn, and is mainly
notable for its air of rustic naturalness. Consecration Hill commands a
fine view of the hills of Milton and the fair Lake Hibiscus. In the S,
part is a monument " Erected by the City of Roxbury in honor of her
soldiers who died for their country in the Rebellion of 1861 to '65." A
bronze soldier, of heroic size, stands at ease on a granite pedestal, and on the
inner granite tablets of the wall, about the lot, are the names of many sol-
diers in letters of gold, 1 M. from Forest Hills, and a like distance
from IMattapan, on the New York & New England Railroad, is the cemetery

3G Jioute 3.

BOSTON TO MEW YOllK.

of Mount Hope. This is in Dorchester, an ancient town wliich was united
Willi Boston in 1870. Over its extensive area (wliicli is bounded on one
side by tlie Bay) are scattere<l several villages and hundreds of country
residences. The natural scenery is picturesque, and is diversified by hills
and forests. A^ Moeting-IIouso Hill is the old chiuch, with u .".oldier's
monument on the green before it. At Grove Hall (horse-cars from the Tre-
mont House or Temple PL), amid ami)le grounds, are the handsome
buildings of the Consumi)tives' Home, an institution founded by Dr.
Cullis in 1862, to receive and relieve iiersons afilicted with the scourge of
New England. It is sui)i)orted (like the Bristol Or]>hanage), by imso-
licited donations in answer to prayer to the Divine Guardian, and the
invalids are "freely received in the name of the Lord."

Bozbury {Norfolk House, a large and comfortable old hotel, on Eliot
Square). Horse-cars from Park-St. Church to Eliot S(i., &c.

Roxbury, an ancient city, almost coeval with Boston, was united with
that city in 1868. In 1775 the Rhode Island forces built here that i)ower-
ful fort which Washington pronounced the best in the siege-lines, and
which seriously galled the Royalists in Boston. Upon the hill occujtied
by this fort is now the stand-pipe of the water-works, where the Cochi-
tuate water is forced up through a boiler-iron tube to a height of 240 ft.
above tide-marsh level, and hence supplies the highest floors in the city.
The tower is a lofty and very graceful structure, with a fine view from the
summit, wliich, however, is usually closed. Eliot St^. is the central point
in Roxbury, and here is the building of the first (Unitarian) church, the
society to which Eliot preached in the Puritan era. For the rest, the
hilly streets of Roxbury are made beautiful by the villas of the city
merchants and by several i)retty churches, of which the venerable St.
James' Church, with its massive Saxon tower, is most attractive, r -, ,

Besides General Warren, who died on Bunker Hill, there were also born at Rox-
bury Mujor-General Heath, of the Continental Army, and Joseph Dudley, gov-
ernor of Massachusetts, 1702-15, while Thomas Dudley, long time governor, and
inajor-general between 1G30-53, had his estates and mansion here.

John Eliot, "the Ai)ostle to the Indians," was pastor of the church in " Rocks-
bury" from 1G32 to lO'JO. Firmly believing that the Indians were descended Ironi
the ten lost tribes of Israel, he made every effort for their conversion. Acquiring
their language, he translated into it the Bible (1663), catechism, Baxter's Call, &c.,
and preached frequently to those villages of "praying Indians which he estab-
lished and protected through the war of 1675-76. Utterly improvident in his
charities, he would sometimes give away his whole salary on the day of its re-
ceipt, and it was only by Mrs. Eliot's care and economy that his four sons were
educated at Harvard, and were ranl<ed afterwards ' with the best preachers of their
generation.' " When the old hero had become helpless, the church continued his
salary several years, until his death.

I
I

. " - 3. Boston to New York.

Via Old Colony Railroad and Fall River steamers in 10 to 12 hrs., leaving Bos-
ton at 4.. 30 or 6.30 P. M. Fare, $5. The railroad station is on the comer of
Kneeland and South Sts. (PI. 36).

BOSTON TO NEW YORK,

Routed. 37

The train soon crosses Fort Point Channel, and runs through S. Bos-
ton and Dorchester.

Until Neponset (6 M. out) is passed, the road runs through the south-
ern villages of the Dorchester district of Boston. The Neponset River is
crossed, and then comes {Ixiinoj {Hancock House, $2), a large agricultural
town, much of whose land is in the estates of the illustrious families of
Adams and Quincy. In the Adams Temjjle, a j)lain granite church oppo-
site the fine town-hall, are monuments to the Adamses, while beneath tho
church the two Presidents of that name aro buried. A handsome granito
shaft, with appropri-ite symbols, was raised in 1868 in memory of 113
soldiers of Quincy who died in the War for the Union. About \ M. from
the Hancock Iloufee is the plain old mansion of the Adams family, tho
Quincy House being 1 M. beyond. Squantum Point (Old Sipiantum House),
between Quincy and Dorchester Bays, was the home of Chickatabut,
Sachem of Massachusetts, and of S<iuantum, the firm Iriend of the Pil-
grims, who, when dying, desired Governor Bradford to pray for him " that
he might goto the Englishman's God in heaven." Squantum Point is con-
nected with Boston by steamers (in summer), and is famous for its chow-
ders, reviving the memory of the olden time when, for scores of years, the
Bostonians met here annually for a "Pilgrim Feast." Hough's Neck
{Great Hill House), not far from Quincy, projects into Boston Harbor, bo-
t\/eeri Quincy and Weymouth Bays. W. of the village are the high hills
ol' Qunicy and Milton, whence is obtained that excellent sienitic granite
which is used for permanent works in nearly every American city. This
range is several miles long and, in places, 600 ft. high, and is nearly a
solid mass of pure granite. The first American railway was operated here
in 1 826, when horses drew the stone on cars over wide wooden tram- ways,
from the quarry to the river (3 M.). Each horse drew 20 tons of granito
besides the car. •• , .

In 1844, 100,000 tons were quarried here by 800 men, under 20 com-
panies. At present the works are carried on on a much larger scale.

John Adams, born Quincy, 1756, was a Ann opponent of the Stamp Act, do-
fender of Captiiin Preston and his soldiers in the so-called " Boston Massacre "
trial, and Congressman, 1774-77. In 1776, as leader of the committee on tho
Declaration of Independence, he fought the Declaration through Congress in a
three days' debate. In 1778, 1779, and 1782, he visited Paris on a special mis-
sion, and in 1782 was chosen ambassador to Holland. In 1785-88 ho was minister
to England. He was the first Vice-President, and in 1796 was elected President
by the Federalists, defeating Jefferson, the Republican candidate, and succeeding
Washington. From 1801 to 1826 he lived on Ids estate in Quincy, and died on
the same day as Jefferson, — July 4, 1826, the 50th anniversaiy of the Declaration
of Independence.

John Quincy Adams, son of John Adams, born Quincy, 1767. He remained
in Europe most of the time between 1778 and 1785, then graduated at Har-
vard, and became a lawyer and publicist. He was successively minister to Hol-
land, England, and Prussia, 1794 - 1801. A United States senator 1803 - 8 ; in 1809
he became minister to Russia, and later was appointed minister to England. Secre-
tary of State, 1817-25, in the latter year he was elected President of the United States

38 Route 3.

BOSTON TO NEW YORK.

(th« Cth). From 1831 to 1848 he was in Cojifjrcss, and «liefl st>dtl»mly in the
Capitol ^1848), his la«t words beinj^. "This is tiie last of earth ; I am contrnt."
Under his inliuence (as Secretary of State or President) great national worlds were
carried on ; Florida was added to the Union ; and the Soutli American repulilics
were recognized. An opponent of the extension of slav(!ry, anil a powerful advo-
cate of tlie rigiit of petition, his powers eontinued until the last, und won for him
tlie title of " tlic Old Man Elorpient."

Charles Francis Adams, his son, was born in Boston in 1807, and long lived in
Europe. lie was one of tlie founders of the present Uepublican party, was some-
time a Con^jrcssman, and in 1801 received the hereditary office of minister to
England, lie held tiiis i)osition until 1.H08, — an arduous duty, since, during this
time, the (nnollicial but elllcient) English sympathy with the Rebel Stiites re-
cpured sleepless vigilance on his part. In 1872 he was one of the (uunmissioners
to Geneva (for tlie settlement of the " Alabama" trouble), and conducted his i)art
of the work with great sliill.

John Hancock, born Quincy, 17'57, be(!ame a wealthy Boston merchant, and
early opposed the aggressions of Parliament, st) that he and Samuel Adams alone
were excepted from the general pardon which General CJage offered to the
Americans. Sometime i*i'esidcnt of the Provincial Congress, in 1775 he was
Presiilent of the Continental Congress, and was the first to sign the Declaration
of Independence. Later he be< ime an otllcer in the uiilitia, and was governor of
Massachusetts 1780-85, and 17S7-93.

This district was firs^^ settled by Weston's company (1622), and Wollaston's
(1G25), at a jdace called Merry Mount) where their conduct was so opposed to
the principles of the Pilgrims that Miles Standish marched from Plymouth against
these jovial Episcopalians, and sent tlieii- iliicfs captive to England. In 1630
the Plymouth forces made another daniagi::'.; .ittack on Merry Mount. Thomas
Morton, of this colony, who was twue bani ined to England, and once imprisoned
for one year by tlie Plymouth govcniment, wrote the " New English Canaan," iii
which he gives the following account of the aborigines: "The Indians maybe
rather accompted as living richly, wanting notiiing that is needful ; and to be
comnicnded for leading a contented life, the younger being ruled by the elder, and
the elder ruled by the Powahs, and the Powahs are ruled by the Devill, and then
you may imagine what good rule is like to be amongst them." This curiously
agrees with Cotton Mather's theoi-y that "the Indians are under the special pro-
tection of the Devill."

Tlic next station is Braintree (village not near railroad), an ancient
farming town. This is the junction of the South Shore Railroad (see
Route 4). At S. Braintree, 2 M. farther on, the Plymouth Branch Rail-
road diverges to the E.

Stations, Randolph, Stoughton, Poiikapaug (Briggs' Hotel), shoe-man-
ufacturing towns. Stations, N. Easton, Boston, Raynham, where the
Leonard brotliers set up tlie first forgo in America, in 1652.

TaxLnton {Citi/ Hotel, $3 a day, on the Green) was founded by Miss
Elizabeth Pool, a pious Puritan lady, of Taunton, in Somersetshire. The
§,ettlement was on the territory of Coliannet, and King Philip was friendly
to the Tauntonians until midsummer of 1676, when he attacked the place,
and was driven off and followed sharply until he was killed. In 1810
there were but 50 houses hei'e, but the water-power of the river soon
induced the location of factories, until at the present time it is a large
manufacturing city, with 18,6.30 inhabitants. Mason's Locomotive Works
cover 10 acres and employ 800 men, and the works of the Taunton Car Co.
are also extensive. The Tack Companies make 700 varieties, from a heavy
boat-nail down to microscopic tacks weighing 4,000 to the ounce. In

BOSTON TO NEW YORK.

Route S. 39

1871, 18,000,000 Itvicks wen; nia<le hero. The Taunton Copper Co. covers
If) acres witli their l)iii]<lings, and works up M, 000,000 or 4,000,0(K) pounds
of copper yearly. There arc also 11 foundries, and manufactories of
screws, stove-linings, and lead-works, larj?e i Titon-mills, and a famous
manufactory of Britannia ware. With all thvi, the city is clean and or-
derly, ami clusters around the central square called Taunton Green.
There are 11) churches, of which St. Mary's (Catholic) on Broadway, St.
Thomas (Episcopal), and the First Unitarian, on Church Green, are
tine stone structures. The latter is a large, raml)ling, Saxon-towered
chuii'h, which looks like some secluded parish-church of Merrie England
which was built before the Comjuest. The City Hall fronts on Church
Green, and the Public Library is next to thi* rude stone churcli (Congrega-
tional) on Broadway. The extensive buildings of the State Lunatic Asy-
lum are near Taunton Green, surrounded l>y pleasant grounds. The
Green is about l.\ M. from the Old Colony Station.

Stations, Weir Jam t ion, Weir, N. iJightnn, Dighton. Near the latter
place, on the opposite shore, is the famous Digliton Rock, — a long
mass of granite with rude sculptures and inscriptions upon it (copied and
published in the Aritiquitates Americance, Copenhagen), which some schol-
ars refer to the Norsciueu in the 11th century, while President Stiles
speaks of " the Pluonicians, who charged the Dighton Rock, and other
rocks in Narragansett Bay, with Punic inscriptions which remain to this
day." It is said that uear this place a skeleton was found (in 1834) with
a brazen belt and breastplate, which is probably the same which inspired
Longfellow's fine poem, "The Skeleton in Armor." Station S<tinerset, then

Fall River {City Hotel, Mount Hope Hotel, Union House), an ener-
getic and glowing city, which enjoys a rare combination of great water-
power on the marghi of navigable waters . The river rises in the Watuppa
Ponds on the highlands 2 M. E. of the city, and falls 130 ft. in less
than half a mile. Along this incline immense factories are drawn up like
platoons in a marching regiment, built across the stream and resting on
the granitic banks on either side. Over ^ 10,000,000 are invested in these
works, and 10,000 persons are employed in them. The great article of
luanufacture is cotton cloth, and more spindles are here engaged upon
that work than in any other city in America. Most of the mills are now
run l^y steam-power. Large quarries of granite are worked in the vicin-
ity of the city, and many of its edifices, including come of the factories,
two or three churches, and the City Hall, are built of that material.
The city is compactly built, and fronts on Mount Hope Bay, across which
Mount Hope looms into view. On South and North Main Sts. are the
principal churches, the City Hall, Post Office, and hotels, and from the
City Hall a group of parallel factories stretches westward and downward
to the Bay. Fall River was formerly divided by the Rhode Island line,

40 Route 3.

BOSTON TO NEW YCnK."

but a change of boundary, ceding to that State hiwh a))out I'awtucket,
&c., secured to MassachuHetts all of Fall Uiver, which in utill called the
" Border City." Uh j)o|)ulation in 1870 wa.s 2(?,768.

The eastern and western divisions of the Old Colony Railroad unitvi
near Fall River, run down through the town of Tiverton, and cross a
narrow strait at Bristol Ferry to Rhode Island. The track runs down the
western shore, and v.ndu at Newport, in ID M. from Fall River, ^'he
Fall River, Warren, and Providence Railroad runs N. W. from Fall River
tf» I'rovidenco.

The palatial steamers, leaving Fall River in the early evening, make
their first stop at

Newport.

Hotels. — Oocnn TTonso, Atlnntic IIoiiso, Pnrry House, Aqnidneok House,
8;<..'iO a day; ^'M a week; lIiiiUMl Ht«t(!H, I'nrU, Touro. Tlu" CUM" House and
CVitt'iKcs are near tlic F'irst Hcacli ; tlie foicijL;ii ministers and sonic European
visitors <hv('ll in seclusion at Perrici's. Uoanling-liouscsutKl cottages are nunmr-
U8, and frequently offer far more (juiet and restl'ulness than the hotels, together
with less expense.

KeaditiK-rooms. — At the Redwood Library ; at the Free Library, on
Thames Street ; also at the Club-House (private), corner Bellevue Avenue
and Church Street.

Churches. — Baptist, on Spring', Farewell, and Clark Streets ; Catholic, St.
Mary's, Spring St. ; CoUKreKatioiialist, SpriuK St. ; Methodist Episcopal, Marl-
boro St., Thames St. ; Hpiscopal, Trinity, Church St. ; Zion, Emmanuel, All
Saints (Dr. Potter), Beach St. ; Unitarian, Mill St.

Carriages an<l .saddle-horstis may be obtained at the Atlantic House stables.
Downing St. L. I). Davis, No. 13 Cluireh St., attends to the rtiutal of the Cliff
Cottages and otliei"s.

Bathing, on First Beach. During the hours wiieii the white flag floats bath-
ing m costunu! is obligatory. Wlule the red flag is displayed, the beach is re-
served for gentlemen.

Stages run to First Beach and other points at regular liours.

Steamboats run to Rocky Point and Providence four times daily (in summer),
excursion tickets, 75c. ; to Wickford (connecting with Shore Line R. R. for New
York), 3 times daily; to Narragan.sett P'er, 3 times daily. The magnificent
steamers of the Fall River I-ine to New Yc touch at Newport every evening on
their way to New York (fare §4).

Railroads. — The Old Coh)ny, to Boston, 67 nules, fare, §2. Via Wickford
(by steam-ferry) and Shore Line to New York, ISO miles.

'rhe harbor of Newport was first visite«l (during the historic epoch) by Verraz-
zain, a noble Florentine, who was sent with the frigate Daujjhin, by King Francis
I. of France, to explore the American coast. IK- remained two weeks here, re-
titting his ship, resting his men, and preijaring reports for his royal master. The
Dutch and English explorers visited the place occasionally, until in 1639 the settle-
ment was made by exiled dissenters from the State church of Puritan land. These
embraced Baptists, Aidinomiaus, and many Quakers, and Rhode Island had such
a consequent air of heterodoxy and irregularity about it that it was excluded from
the league of the United Colonies, although it had received a royal charter in
1665. So late as the beginning of the present century, J^resident Dwight attrib-
uted the laxity of morals in Stonington to "its nearr.ess tO Rhode Island." So
the little colony di'ew in its outlying settlements, fortified Providence, and main-
tained armed vessels cniising about Rhode Island throughout King Plulip's War,
80 that no hostile Indian landed on the shores of the "Isle of Peace."

Anawan, the chief captain of King Philip, and 60 of his bravest warriors, sur-
rendered to Captain Church after the death of Philip, being promised amnesty.
The broken-hearted chief delivered up his sovereign's rude regalia, and all accom-
panied Church to Newport, where, shortly after, in Church's absence, he was pcr-

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1^...

BOSTON TO NEW YORK.

Route 3.

fldiously beheaded. The chief Tispaquin and liis men also surrendered to Church
under solemn pledges of pardon and aiimesty, but the murder of this patriotic
leader was reserved for the people of Plymouth.

In 1629-31 Dean Berkeley gave a high literary tone to the colony, and organized
a philosophic society and scientiiic discussions. The harbor of Newport was
fortified in 1733. The royal census of 1730 reported 4,640 inhabitants in the town.
In 1769-70 Ne>vport stood second only to Boston in the extent of its commerce,
being far ahead of New Yorlv. Its population in 1774 was l'2,o00, and in 1870 it
was 12,518. In Dec, 1776, the town was captured by a British exi)edition from
New York, and was held until Nov., 1779. Lord Pen^y commanded here until
he was summoned to England to assume the Dukedom of Northumberland.
Tlie Hessian Waldeck regiment (1,500 men) formed part of the garrison, and
Admiral Howe's fleet wintered here, 1777-78, and returned here after its battle
with D'Estaing's fleet off Point Judith. Later in the year D'Estaing made a
daring demonstration, which caused the British to burn six frigates before the
town. Sullivan and Green advanced down the island in Aug., 1778, but were
forced to retire, after an indecisive action. In Nov.. 1779, the Anglo-Hessian
army evacuated the place, having destroyed the wharves, fortifications, &c.
In 1779 D'Estiiing worsted Admiral Arbuthnot in a jvetty action off Gardiner's
Island, and then returned to Newport. In July, 1780, a large fleet, commanded
by the Chevalier de Ternay, " Kniglit of St. John of Jerusalem, (iovernor of the
Islands of France and Bourbon," Sc, appeared in the harbor, bringing
the Count de Rocliaml)eau and 6,000 French soldiers (the regiments Bour-
bonnais, Agenois, Royal Auvergne, de Saintouge, Royal Deux-Ponts, Touraine,
Soissonais, &c.). Among his officers were Aubert Dubayet, who afterwards was
gen. commanding Mayence and in La Vendee, and in 1796 was Minister of War ;
Count d'Autichamp, afterwards an emvjre who served in all Conde's cam-
paigns ; Viscount Beauharnais, afterwards President ol the Frencli Assembly and
Minister of War, who was guillotined in 1794. His son Eugene became Viceroy
of Italy, and his widow, Josephine, became Empress of Franco ; Berthier, af-
terwards Marshal of France and I'rince of Neufchatel and Wagram, created by
Louis XVIII. a Peer of France, and assassinated at liamberg in 1815; Viscount
de Bethisy, afterwards lieut.-gen. in the army of Conde ; Christian, Count
of Forbach, and William, his successor, fought in the Royal Deux Pouts regi-
ment ; Count Axel Fersen, later Grand Marshal of Sweden ; Viscount de Fleury,
later Marshal of France ; tlie Duke de Lauzun, who cdmmr nded the Army of the
Rhine and of La Rochelle, defeated the royalist La Vendee, and was guillotined
in 1794 ; Viscount de Noailles ; Marquis de Cliastellux ; Viscount Laval, and his
son, afterwards the Duke .1". Laval ; Viscoimt de Mirabeau, colonel of the regi-
ment La Touraine, brother of the great Mirabeau ; Count du Muy ; Chevalier de
Mauduit-Plessis ; Marquis de Vlomenil ; Viscount de Fleury ; Count de Dumas ;
Chevalier Dupertail ; Duke de Damas ; Viscount Desandrouins ; Ar^liur Count de
Dillon, who defeat d the Prussiaus at Argonne and Verdun, and was guillotined in
1794 ; Marquis deDubouchet ; Baron Turreau ; Baron Viomenil ; Victor de Broglie ;
Count de Custine, a veteran of e Great Frederick's Seven Year's War, afterwards
governor of Toulon, commandei of the Army of tlni North, and of the Lower
Rhine, and guliotined in 1793.

In 1781 the Cli' valier de Tilly broke uj) Arnf)ld's rai ling fleet in the Chesapeake,
and brought the Ronuilus," 44, and six other priziis into Newport. Through-
out the war, New^ rt was rudely handled and gradually demolished, until Brissot
de Warville, visitin tlie place in 1788, sa'd that it resembled Liege after tlie great
siege. "Tlie reign solitude is only iiitLn-ruptod by groujis of idle men standing
witli folded arms at tlie (corners of tie streets ; houses falling to ruin ; miserable
shops wliich present nothing but a few coarse stuff's, or baskets of apples, and
other things of little value ; grass growing in the public .scpiare in front of the
court of justice ; rags sti'H'ed in the windows, or hung upon hideous women and
lean, unquiet children." At the close of ^le Revolt tion, the French government
made strenuous ettbrts to have Rhode Island ceded to the domain of France.
President Adams made a naval stJition here, fortified Avith six batteries. Dr.
Samuel Hopkins, the founder of the Ilopkinsian scliool of theology ("System of
Theology "), and hero of Mrs. Stowe's novel, "The Jtlinister's Wooing," preached
at Newport, 1770 - 1803. Dr. Stiles, afterwards President of Y'ale College, preached
here for many years. The population, which in 17S2 was reduced to ujySO, ros<;
slowly until the war of 1812 stop] led its growth, and since ti>eu the progress of

42 Route 3.

BOSTON TO NEW YORK.

Newport, has been slow and uneven. But this unprogressive and tranquil spirit
<'onstitutes one of the charms of Newport, and makes of this quiet little marine
city the Ostcnd, the Nice of America.

William EUery Channiu},' was born at Newport in 1780 (died 1842). "The in-
fluences of ilie climate and scenery of tlie island where his l)oyhood was passed,
had no slight influence ujwn the social and moral attributes of his mind." He
won the highest honors at Harvard University, and afterwards was i)astor of u
Unitiirian Cliurch in Boston lor 37 years. He was an abolitionist, an anti-
annexationist, and an advocate of peace, and his principles were sustained
with fearless independence, ])lain-spoken fidelity, and a solenm and impressive
manner. As the; leader of tlie liberal i)arty in the Unitarian controversy, his
power was derived as much from the symmetrical beauty of his life as from the
remarkable strength of liis writings. " He has the love of wisdom, and the wis-
dom of love." — Coleridge, of Channiug. v,.i'i.

Newport, "the Queen of American watering-places," and a semi-capi-
tal of the State of Rhode I.sland, is on the S. W. sliore of the island
from wliich tlie State is named, and fronts, across its liarbor, on Narra-
gansett liay. Its older portion, lying near the wharves, has many narrow
streets, bordered with the houses of the year-round residents, many of
whicli are mansions of the old time. New Newport almost surrounds
the old town, and stretches aAvay to the S. with a great number of
handsome villas and cottages. The bathing and boating at Newport are
fine, the drives over the " Isle of Peace" are varied and pleasant, but the
cliief charm of the place is its balmy and equable climate, due, according
to most opinions, to a divergence in this direction of the waters of the
Gulf Stream. Dean 'Berkeley likened the atmosphere of Newport to that
of Italy, while another writer speaks of the damp sea-air and equable
climate as resembling those of England. Fogs are of frequent occurrence,
but of short duration. There are many summer visitors from the South
and the West Indies, while the array of literary talent wliich gatliers here
yearly is quite attractive. Several of the ambassadors from Europe, with
the nobles connected with the embassies, spend their summers here. The
feature of private cottages is largely developed here, and hotel life is quite
subordinate to it. Wealthy New York and Boston merchants move into
their palatial villas early in the summer, and have tlieir horses and car-
riages sent on, so that by Aug. 1 the broad, firm avenues, and the hard
and level beaches are filled with cheerful life.

Tlie central point in Old Newport is Washington Square, with its mall
and fountain. Tlie State House fronts on this Square, — a plain but solid
old building erected in 1742, wliich served as a hospital from 1776 to 1781.
From its steps the Declaration of Independence was read, July 20, 1776,
and in its Senate Chamber is a fine portrait of George Washington, by
Stuart. Tlie City Hall, the Perry Hotel, and the mansion taken by
Com. Perry after his victory at Lake Erie, all front on this Square. Gen.
Washington passed through this Square on his way to Rochambeau's
headquarters in his first visit to Newport. In the evening the town
was illuminated, and Washington, Rocliambeau, and the French nobles

BOSTON TO NEW YORK.

Route 3. 43

5 mall

solid

1781.

1770,

11, by

u by

Gen.

eau's

town

loblcs

♦

paraded through the streets. Trinity Church (on Church St.) was
hnilt in the early part of the last century, and was often preached in by
Dean Berkeley (1729 to 1731). He presented an organ (vstill in use) to
this church, and left a dearer token, one of his children, in the old church-
yard. On Farewell St, is an ancient cemetery, where are buried many
of the earliest colonists and their governors. The Jewish cemetery on
Touro St. is a beautiful garden-spot kept in perfect order. Near it is
the Synagogue, the first in the Union (built in 1762), and not now used,
though kept in order by permanent endowments. The * Bedwood
Library is south of the cemetery, in a handsome Doric building, dating
from 1750. An elegant though small library is kept here, and some good
paintings, together with some fine p'eces of statuary. The King of Eng-
land gave 84 volumes to this library, and Dean Berkeley gave also a large
number ; but when the evacuating British anny carried even the church-
bells with them, they spared not the Redwood Library. Touro Park is a
favorite resort, and was the gift of Judah Touro, born at Newport in 1775,
the son of Isaac Touro, the pastor of the Jewish Synagogue. From 1802
to 1854 he lived in New Orleans, wliere he amassed a large fortune which
he left to various charities, mostly those of the Christian Church, though
he himself was a Jew. "He gave $10,000 towards the Bunker Hill
Monument." On this Park, surrounded by an iron fence, stands the
* Round Tower, otherwise called the Old Stone Mill, an ivy-clad, circular
stone tower supported on roimd arches. More battles of the antiqua-
rians have been fought over this ancient tower than could well be num-
bered, the radical theories of its origin being, on the one side, that it was
built by the Norsemen in the 11th century, and on the other that a
colonial governor (over perhaps 500 people), built it for a windmill in the
17th century. Verrazzani spent 15 days in the harbor and exploring the
land (1524), but makes no mention of this tower ; while, on the other hand,
it is certain that the early colonists never built in such architecture or
materials as are here seen. The only thing in favor of the mill theory is
the fact that Gov. Benedict Arnold (died in 1678) bequeathes it in his
will as "my stone-built windmill." The opening scenes of Cooper's
"Spy "are laid in this vicinity ; and Longfellow's poem, "The Skeleton
in Armor," has told its story. But " its history has already, in Young
America, passed into the region of myth." Near the round tower stands
the statue of Commodore M. C. Perry, who opened Japan to the world
(1854).

The Vernon House (corner Mary and Clarke Sts. ) w'<,s Rochambeau's
headquarters in 1780. Also on Clarke St. is the Central Baptist Church,
built in 1733, and next to it is the armory of the Newport Artillery Com-
pany, an elite corps, formed in 1741. The first Methodist steeple in the
world is on the church on Marlboro St. The Penrose House, on Churcli

44 Route 3.

BOSTON TO NEW YORK.

>: \ !

St., a famous old colonial mansion, where Gen. Washington was once
a guest, is now a tenement house, and the Channing Mansion (built 1720)
is near Thames St. The First Baptist Church, on Spring St., dates from
1638. In the office of the Mercury , a weekly paper started in 1758, is
Ben. Franklin's printing-press, imported in 1720. The News is a bright
daily newspaper.

12 M. N. E. of Newport is the Stone Bridge which unites Rhode
Island with the mainland at Tiverton. About 7 M. out is the Olen, a
romantic spot, tree-shaded and (piiet, where an old mill stands near a
small pond. This is a favorite drive for the Newpoi-t visitors, forming an
easy afternoon's ride. A small hotel is situated 1-2 M. from the Glen,
and a church in the vicinity was frequently preached in by Dr. Channing,
**the Apostle of Unitarianism."

6-7 M. from NcAvport, on a road running to the W. of the Stone
Bridge highway, is Lawton's Valley, a beautiful rural resort, rich in
verdure and in trees which are kept green by a bright stream llowing
seaward. The Pond and Old Mill are the principal objects in the scenery.
Over the valley is Butt's Hill, where Sir Robert Pigott attacked the Amer-
icans under Sullivan and Green on their retreat from the siege. Pigott
impulsively attacked the halting army, and was beaten back by them
until nightfall, when the Americans Continued their retreat to the main-
land, saving both their artillery and their stores. The British loss was
260, while the New England militia lost 206 men. 3| M. from New-
port, on this road, is the pretty little church of the Holy Cross,
and near it is the farmhouse used by the British Gen. Prescott as
heaqduarters. On the night of July 10, 1777, Lieut. -Col. Barton and
a small party crossed Narraganset Bay in a boat, and took Prescott
from his bed, carrying him into captivity. He was exchanged for
Gen. Lee.

The grand drive is on * Sellevue Ave., a clean, broad road, lined
with villas, and running two miles to the S. Here, at the fashionable
hour, passes a procession of elegant equipages only equalled in Central
Park, Hyde Park, or the Bois de Boulogne. Many of the homes along
this avenue are of palatial splendor, and they form a handsome panorama
of architecture. Bailey's Beach is at the end of Bellevue Ave. ; and
among the rocky cliffs on the shore near by is the Spouting Cave, a deep
cavern running back from the sea, into which great Avaves crowd after a
storm from the S. E. Unable to go farther, they break with a heavy
boom, and dash upward through an opening in the roof, sometimes to a
height of 40-50 ft. From the cliffs in the vicinity (near the Boat-
House Landing) a noble sea-view is gained, stretching as far as Block
Island, 30 miles S. W. The picturesque Gooseberry Island is nearer,
in the foregroimd. "A finer sea-view — lit up, as it is, moreover,

• ^

BOSTON TO NEW YOKK.

Route 3. 45

along

Oram a

: and

deep
'ter a
leavy

to a
Boat-
Block
learer,
cover,

by tlie ever truly fairy-like spectacle of ships gliding under sail over
the waters — the eye can rarely witness." Narragansett Ave. runs at
right angles with Belle vue Ave., and terminates on the E. at the Forty
Steps (leading dowu tlie rocks). It is lined with fine houses.

The * First Baach (about ^ M. from the Ocean House) is a strip of
white sand, hard and smooth, extendiag for 1 M, in length and lined
with batli-liouses. The slope of the shore is very gradual, . id the surf
is light rather than lieavy, so that this is one of the safest beaches
on the coast. It is a lively and brilliant scene liere during the hours
of the white flag in warm days, and the beach is fringed with carriages.
The Cliff Cottages are in this vicinity. 1 M. E. is the Second, or
Sachuest Beach, whose "lianl black beach is the most perfect race-
course, and the heaving of the sea sympathizes with the rider, and in-
s[)ires him." The hours of low tide are the favoriiv- times to ride here.
* Purgatory is at the W. end of Sachuest Beach. It is a wonderful
chasm, 100 ft. long, 40 - 50 ft. deci), and 8-14 ft. wide at the top, torn
out by upheaval or eaten by the waves, iu the graywacke rock. Several
feet of water remain in the chasm at low tide, and in stormy high tides
heavy masses of water boom through it. The familiar story of the
Lover's Leap of course attaches to this place, but is antedated by the
legend that the Devil once threw into it a sinful Indian sqxiaw, and his
lioof-marks can be seen by all unbelievers. Other stories, of later date,
attach to the Purgatory, but the origin of its name does not transpire.
Paradise is a verdant valley adorned with cottages, opening off Sachuest
Beach, and near it is a mass of rocks and upheaved boulders called Para-
dise Lost. The Tiiird Beach is a long, quiet, and sequestered line of sand,
above which are tlxe Hanging Books, where, in a sheltered natural alcove.
Dean Berkeley loved to siL, and look out over the wide sea, and write dowu
his meditations.

Here he composed "Alciphron ; or the Minute Philosopher," a series of Platonic
dialogues defending the Christian system. Here probably he wrote the noble
lyric oudiug with tlio prophcy : —

" Westward the course of empire takes its way,
The four first acts already past,
A fifth shall end the drama with the day.
Time's noblest offspriug is the last."

George Berkeley, Dean of Derry, a famous philosopher and idealist, conceived
a plan for converting the Amcrictan Indians by a university, and came to New-
port, under royal charter, in 1729. He built the mansion " Whitehall" (now
a fiirmhouse), 3 M. from the town, but soon found that hi^ scheme was iin-
jnacticable, and returned to England in 1731, giving his Newport estate and a fine
library to Yale and Harvard Colleges. From 1733 until his death (in 1753) he was
Uishop of Cloyue.

AVashington Allston was fond of roaming on these beaches, and Dr. Channing
once remarked (of First Beach), "No spot on earth has helped to form me so
much as that beach."

Saclmest Point is on the S. E. of the island, and is much visited by
fisliermen.

46 Jioute 3.

BOSTON TO NEW YORK.

To Miantonomi Hill, \\ M. from tho city, with its old British eartJi-
works and noble view of Newport niiJ its environs, is a pleasant ex-
cursion for a clear day. Honeynmn's Hill, near Miantonomi, is another
far-viewing point. The old Malbone Estate (see "Malbone; a Romance
of Oldport," by T. W. Higginson) was at the foot of Miantonomi Hill.

The Pirates' Cave and Batenian's Point are often visited, being about
4^ M. from the city, and a favorite drive is around the Neck, past
Fort Adams, and along Ocean and Bellevue Aves. to the city again, the
distance being little more than 10 M.

Fort Adams, distant 34:-4 M. from the city (by Thames St. and WeU
lington Ave.). This is the strongest (save two, Fortress Monroe and
Fort Richmond) of the coast defences of the U. S., and mounts 408 can-
non, requiring a garrison of 3,000 men. Its systems of covered ways,
casemates, and otlier protective works, is comi)lete. The *' fort days,"
(twice weekly), when the garrison band plays its best music, attract
great numbers of visitors, and many carriages pass the imposing granite
walls, and wait on the parade.

This fortress is on Brenton's Point, named for the noble family of that name.
Wiiliuni Brenton was governor of the colony lGGO-69 ; his son, Jahleel, was a cus-
toms officer under William III. ; his grandson, Jahleel, resided on the great family
estates in the island ; his great-grandson, Jahleel, refused very tempting offers
from the Americans, left his estates, which were afterwards contiscated, and com-
manded the British frigate, the "Queen" ; his great-great-grandson, Jahleel, an
English knight and rear-admiral of the Blue, died at Loudon in 1844.

Opposite Fort Adams, on Conanicut Island, is an old stone fort, cir-
cular in form, called the Dumplings. A flue marine view is enjoyed
from this loftily i)laced ruin.

Goat Island, opjiosite the city-wharves, is the headquarters of the
torpedo division of the U. S. Naval Service. Here is the school in which
the young officers of the navy are instructed in the torpedo service. Lime
Rock is beyond Goat Island, and is famed for being the home of Ida
Lewis, the American Grace Darling, who has saved many lives in this
harbor. Hose Island is farther out in tlie Bay, and has the remains of an
old fort upon it. Fort Green was built in 1798, near the Blue Rocks and
the line of Washington St. On Coasiefs Harbor Island is a fine
Asylum for the poor, on land left by Wm. Coddington, the founder of
R. I., and for nine years its governor.

Rhode Island was bought from the Indians in 1638. Its name was Aquid-
necli, "The 1^'e of Pecice." The earliest discoverers named it Claudia, and a later
exploring expedition from Holland, coming upon it in the autumn, when its forests
Avere in bright colors, called it Rood Eylandt, the Red Island. Roger Williams
tried to fasten the name " Patmos" upon it, but Rhode Island prevailed, derived,
uecording to some, from its similarity to the Isle of Rhodes, a Moslem fortress in
the E. Mediterranean. In that early day Neale called it "the garden of New
England," and even now the Rhode Island farms are the most valuable in the six
States. Olf its shores are cauglit 112 kinds of fish, ranging from whales to
smelts. The island is 1;') M. long by 8-4 M. wide, and is "pleasantly laid

! ;.

BOSTON TO NEW YORK.

Routes. 47

lof the

which

Lime

lot' Ida

u this

of an

Iks and

a fine

der of

JAquid-
] a later
jibrcsts
lilliams
Icrived,
Iress in
\i New
Ithe six
lales to
lly laid

out in hllla and valea and ri.Hing grdunds, with plenty of excellent springs*
uud line liviilctd, and many deli^^litt'ul land.icapes uf tork, and proinuntui-ies, and
adjacent lands."

Malbone, the celebrated portrait-painter, was lM)rn at Newport in 1777, and Capt.
Decatur, of the navy, was horn here in 17JI, whoso son was Stcithen Decatur,
"the Bayard of the seas."

After leaving Fall River, and touching at Newport., the steamer moves
on steadily through the night, passing Point Judith, Block Island, and
Fisher's Island, after wliich she enters the tranquil waters of Long Island
Sound. At a very early hour the narrowing W. end of the Sound is
entered, and the shores of Westchester County are passed on the N.
Throgg's Point, on the r., bears Fort Scliuyler (318 guns), out on the
Sound, which is mated hy a strong fortress on Willet's Point (opposite).
After passing several villages, J"'lushing Bay opens to the 1., with the
beautiful village of Flushing at its head! Richly cultivated islands and
shores follow, up to Randall's Island, with the House of Refuge, and
Ward's Island, with tlie Emigrant-Refuge and Hospital, and the Potter's
Field, where 3,000 of the poor of New York are buried yearly. The
steamer now enters Hell Gate, a wild and turbulent succession of strong
currents and whirlpools, caused by the action of immense bodies of water,
in the changes of the tide, t)cing poured through this narrow and sinuous
strait, which abounds in rocky islets and sunken ledges. The passage .of
this point was fonnerly ditlicult and dangerous, and two or three British
frigates were wrecked here during our wars. But immense ledges have
l)een removed by submarine blasting, and now but little danger remains.
Astoria and Ravensv/ood are beautiful villages soon passed on the Long-
Island shore, after -which Blackwell's Island comes into view, with its
long lines of charitable and correctional establishments. The N. point
of this island is occupied by a neat little model of a fort, with a fonnid-
able array of wooden cannon, called Fort Maxey or the Crazy-Man's Fort.
It was built by an Irish lunatic named Ma.xey, who has lived many years
here, and claims a great sum from the government for his defense of New
York. The octagonal building, with two long wings, is the Lunatic
Asylum. One wing is reserved for each sex, while the more noisy
maniacs are kept in a separate building on the E. The Work-Houses
come next, wliere willing hands which can find no work, and vagrants,
wlio will not do honest labor, are furnished with appropriate work. The
extensive Alnis-Houses, with the handsome house of the Superintendent,
come next, being divided into male and female departments. Then the
extensive Penitentiary and Charity-Hospital are passed, and, on the lower
end of the island, the ornate building of the Small-Pox Hospital. These
structures are all of granite, quarried here bj'- tlie convicts, and probably
there is no cluster of such institutions, in the same space, in the world,
wliich combine so much of safety, comfort, and practical influence for
correction and restraint. Deep ship-channels run on each side of the

4 <l

48 Jtuule 4.

BOSTON TO S. DUXBUKY.

island, and on the Manlmttan sliore, opposite its centre, is the great
German Festival-CJardcn, called Jones' Wood. Hunter's Point and
Groonpoint are now passed on the left, antl a long line, on both sides of
the East River, of foundries and factories. Then comes Williamsburg
with its shipyards. On the 1., and beyond it, fronting on Wallabout
Bay, is the Brooklyn Navy- Yard, the principal naval-station of the
Union, wliere several U. S. frigates may usually be seen. Crowded
wharves now stretch into the stream on each side, with forests of
masts, while fleet and powerful tug-ltoats dart to and fro in the river, and
the crowded and ever busy ferry-boats cross and recross it. The works
of the great East-River Bridge are seen near Fulton Ferry in Brooklyn.
Wiiere Brooklyn bends olf to the S. W., the steamer turns to the
W., and passes Governor's Island on the 1. This island l)elongs to
the government, and its centre is occupied by Fort Columbus, a low-lying
but powerful star- fort, mounting 120 guns. A water-battery on the
S. W. commands the channel toward Brooklj'n, and a tall, semi-cir-
cular fort with tliree tiers of gnus, cjilled Castle William, looks toward
the Battery. The steamer now rounds tlic Battery, the tree-shaded
lower extremity of Manhattan Island. This was once a favorite park,
but is now neglected. The curious ro' ' building at the water's edge
was built in 1807 by the government, a.^ a fortress, under the name of
Castle Clinton. At a later day great fairs and concerts were held here,
and it is now used as an emigrant depot. On the 1., Ellis, Bedloes, an^
Staten Islands are seen, and Jersey City and Bergen. Passing up the
North River the boat soon enters its dock at the foot of Chambers Hi,
(see New York).

4. Boston to S. Duxbury.

Via Old Colony and South Shore Railroads. Distance, 39 M. Time,
l.^-24hrs.

Boston to Braintree, see Route 3. Stations, E. B -'n'ntree, Weymouth,
WeBsasoBset (Weymouth Hotel), 12 M. from Boston, a town of 9,000 in-
habitants, was settled at an early date by 60 Episcopalians. Here, in
1623, occurred the terrible attack of Miles Standish on the assembled In-
dian chiefs, whose justifiableness has not yet been proven clearly. The
scene is well described in the 7tli part of " The Courtship of Miles Stand-
ish," by Longfellow. After this affair, the Episcopalian colonists left,
and in 1624 a company moved in from Weymouth, in Dorsetshire, Eng.
who gave its name to tlie town.

Stations jV. Weymouth, E. Weyyiiovth, W. IlingJiam, HingJuim (see
Route 2), Nantasket, and Cohasset. The latter is a small town with
a quaint old church on its green. Tlie rocky shores and resounding
inlets along the ocean front are very picturesque, and are adorned
with fine villas.

r :

BOSTON TO S. DUXBUKV.

liQut,^ 4. 4U

Time,

No district In America yields sudi quant, -s of Iiisli moss as do thn short>9 of
C'nliasHot and Meiluute. On tliesc s.iii.e " hard ait- nitic rofk.s, which tlio waves
li.ivo laid bare but liave not bi'eii ;ible to ciinrdile," in Oct., 184'.t, the emigrant
vessel "St. Juiin " was wrecki'd, and niany scores of itasscngrrs were lost. "The
si'a-luthin.;.? at C<tlia.s.si't llocks was [»erlV<'t. Tim water was piirt^rand more trans-
l)areut tliaa any I liad (n-er st't-n. 'V\n\ smootli and fiiutastically worn rtx'lts, and
tlm iM'rfectiy clean and tress like rock-weeds falliiiK over you, and attached so
firndy to tlie ro'ks tliat you enuld imll yoinsclf up liy them, greatly erdiauced the
luxury of the bath." — Thoreati. Capt. Jnlju Smitli, wiien passing' liy one of
tlie.se rocky prDmontories, in Kill, was attack''! by tlie Indians with arrows,
whereupon lie .says, " We !• 'iind tiie people in tliost puts verie ki ide ; Ijut in tlieir
furie no le.sse valiant."

At N. Cohiv.sset are tlio Black Rock and Rockville Houses, while

the Pleasant Beach House is south of these, and on a point near Minut'.s

Ledge is the extensive Glades House. Minot's Ledge is a dangerous

reef far out from the shore. In 1849. a lighthou.se on iron piles was
built here, but this was swejit away in the great storm of April, 1851,
and its keepers were lost. The ])resent lighthouse (8 M. from Boston
Light) is 88 ft. high, of wliicli the lower 10 ft. are of solid masonry.
Stations N. Scltuatt , Eiji/pt, Scituate (South Shore House), a <piiet
old marine village looking out on the ocean through a wide harbor-mouth
scarce a mile away. Cliff St. leads up on an eminence whence a lino
view is gained of the sea, and the singular and desolate bluffs in the S.
Near by is Peggotty Beach, with good batliiug, but no hotel.

Station, South Scituate (far-viewing hotel on the bhdl's near the R. R.),
JC. Mdi's/ijirhl, LUtlettnra, Marshjiiid Centre.

Marsh field station is about 4 M. from the seaside resort of Brant
Rock (several small hotels). Carriages are usually in waiting at the sta-
tion to carry travellers to Brant Rock, or to the Webster Estate (2 M.).
The Webster Mansion is a large, autKjue, and pleasant house, approached
from the road l)y a long, curving avenue lined with trees. By the courtesy
(jf the present possessors of tlie estate, travellers are permitted to go
through the !u)use (gratuity to servants, 50 cts. ). The various apart-
ments of the house, low, broad, and wainscotted, are filled with old paint-
ings and relics. The library, a higli and graceful room on the N. wing,
contains the books and wiixwy interesting mementos of the statesman,
together with au interpolated bust of Pope Pius IX. ^ M. S. of the
Webster Mansion (passing, on the 1., a French-roofed house, where lives
Adelaide Phillips, the celebrated contralto), at the end of the road, is
the old Winslow House, built and inhabited by the Pilgrim Gov. Winslow
in tlie 17th century.

A road turning to the 1. from the main road just N. of the Webster farm, and
running toward the sea, leads in a few minutes to an ancient burying-ground
on au ocean-viewing hill. The flrst graves reached are those of the Webster family:
Daniel, and his sons, ^ Major Edward, died in the Mexican War, and Col. Fletcher
Webster (li2th Mass. Infantry), killed at the battle of Bull Run, 18G2.

Daniel Webster, born at Salisbury, N. H., Jan. 18, 187-', was in the class of
1801 at Dartmouth College, and afterwards became a lawyer. His matchless elo-
quence and vast ability carried him rapidly forward, and he l>ecame a Cougress-

3 D

;
■I

» ,;

; •*

.;;

00 lioute 4. BOSTON TO b. DUXBUUY.

man (1813 -17, and 182:$ -27), a Senator (1827-^9, anU 1845 -r.O). and Secretary
of State (1840 -4H, and 1800-52.) " Tlie famous Uartu>outh CoUegu uuse. t-Hrrifd
by ajUM^ttl to Wa«liin}^ton in 1817, pluoed liini in tlu- front rank of tliu American
Imr. Among tlm groat t-asis argued l»y liiiu l^i-lino tin- U. S, Supreme Court
were those of (iildioiiH and Ogdni (steamltoat monoixily case), that of Ogden
and Saunders (StJtto ins(dvi'rd laws), Uw. Oharies Kiver Hndg«^ case, llio Alabama

liunk ease, the (jirard Will '-ase, and tiie lihode Island Ciiarter case I)ec.

22, 1.S20, he (hdivend Ids cleiirated discourse at I'lymouth on tlie anniversary
of the landing of tius I'ilgiims. Others of tlds class of ellbrts were that on the
laying of tiu; <'orner-stoMc of the Hunker Hill Moniimeui (.June 17, 1825), and
at its completion (.June J7, isi,}), ami tlie eulogy on Adams and Jellersfm, July 4,
1826. He again entered (Joiigress in Dec., IH-'.'t ; mad^ his famous sjjeeidi on
th(! (ireek Revolution ; and, as chairman of the judiciary > umuuttee, reported and
carried through tiie House .1 couiplete rcvisiitii c'" tiic criminal code of the U.
B. In the lyth Congress he made a masterly siieecli on the jiroposed diplo-
matic Ccmgiess at ranania His great si)eech in reply to Huyne, delivered

In the Senate Jan. 20 and 27, 18;iU, on Kootc'.s resolution, has been decured,
next to the (Jonstitution itself, tlie most correct and coiiij)lcte exposition of tiie
true powers and I'unctions of the Federal (ioverniiient." As Secretary of State
under Tyler and Filiiiiorc, he settled tlu; Northeaslcni IJoumlary (piestion (Ash-
burton Treaty). " Mr. Wel)ster'3 person was imposing, of commanding height,
and well-proportioned, tlie head of great 8i/.(^ the eye <leep-seated, large, and lus-
trous, his voice deei) and sonorous, bis action ajipropiiatc and imi>ressive." His elo-
quence on gr(!at occasions has bcien called "the llglitniiigof passion running along
tne iron links of argument." He was very fond of rural life, of farming, and of
fishing and hunting. On the 21th of Oct., LSrj2, at his home in Marshlield, died
Daniel VVeb.ster, the foremost man in New England's history

Near the Webster MonuiiK^nt is an iron-railed bjt, containing the tombs of
"The Ibmblo. Josiah Winslow, CJov. of New riyniouth. Dyed December ye 18,
1080, atatis, G2." " i'eiielope, ye widdow of Cov. Winslow," and others.

Edward Winslow came in the " Maytlower," and was governor of I'lymouth in
1633, '36, and '41. He was a warm friend of tlie Sacliem Massasoit. In 1G35,
while Plymouth's agent. Archbishop Jjaud imi)risoiied him 17 weeks in the Fleet
Prison for heretical acts. He died in 1665, wliihs in partial sujierintendence of a
fleet sent by Cromwell against the Spaniards. From Edwanl's biotiier was de-
scended John A. Winslow, rear-admiral U. S. navy, who fought in the Mex-
ican War, and in the Western river S(iuadrons, 1S61-G3. June lit, 1804, com-
manding the " Kearsaye," he was attacked off Cherbourg by the Confederate war
steamer, the "Alabama." The vessels were of aliout tlie same strength, but so
skilfully was the " Kearsage " protected and nianujuvred that her opponent was
sunk within sight of the crow(li;d French coast.

Josiah Winslow, son of Edward, was born at Marshlield in 1020, commanded the
colonial armies tlirough King Piiiliji's War, and was the lirst native-born governor
(1673-1080). His grandson, John Winslow, binn at Marshlield, 1702, a brave and
able officer, " was tlie principal actor in the tragedy of tlie expulsion of the hap-
less Aeadians from Nova Scotia in 17")5 ; and it is a singular fact that, 20 years
after, nearly every person of Winslow 's lineage was, for political reasons, by the
force of events, transplantetl to the very soil from which the Acadiaus were ex-
pelled."

After Mar.slifieUl are the stations Webster Place, Daxhury (Hollis
House), and S. Duxbury.

Duxbury was allotted to John Alden (youngest of the Pilgrims, whose great
grandson commanded the 7th Mass. Continental Regt., and was killed in battle at
Cherry Valley), and to Miles Standish. The Bradfords also settled here, and Alden
Bradford, theauthor, and Gamaliel Bradford, colonel of the 14tli Mass. Regt. through
the war for independence, were born here. Duxbury was so named from its be-
ing the home of the military chief (dux) of the colony. Standish lived on Cap-
tain's Hill, in S. Duxbury, u far-viewing eminence 180 ft. high, and sur-
rounded on 3 sides by the waters of the Bay. In Oct., 1872, imposing cere-
monies were held on this hill, and a costly monument (to be finished late in
1878) was dedicated to the Pilgrim soldier. ' A line view of Plymouth and the

iecretary
!, cRnicil
Vinericuu
lie Court

Alubaina
. . D.m;.
niveraury
ut oil the
825). iiiid
I, July 4.
|ii;eih oh
ortcduiiil
of tlio U.
ii'd diplo-
d«!livered
dcfured,
on of the
' of State
ion (Ash-
ig heiK'ht,
. and his-
" Ilia elo-
ihiK ah)iig
ig, and of
held, died

tombs of

her ye 18,

ier«.

^iiiouth ill

In 1035.

the Fleet

denee of a
r was de-
tlie Mex-
804, c'oni-
rate war
li, but so
|>nent was

auded the
governor

Ibrave and
the hap-
W years

[s, by the
were ex-

(Hollis

lose great
battle at
Ind Alden
through
:n its be-
on Cap-
ind sui-
ig cere-
late in
and the

BOSTOX TO PT.Y MOUTH.

lioute 5.

ocoan ((ilid of Cape Cod in rlear weather) 's oHJoyed fmin Captain's Hill. Miles
Standish, u veteran of tlie Flanders canipaiKiiH, fame over witli the l'il;,'rims. and
was made tlie hf>ad of tiieir armirs (consisting of 12 men), altlioiigli he did not
iii'long t(t their - liur h. lie was a short man, very lirave, but impetuous and
eholeric. and Ills name sunn itcrame a terror to all hostile Imlians. Ili> is tlie
hero of a Imautiliil poem in niiii! parts, liy Longfellow, callid " Tlie Courtship of
Alili-s Stanilish."

Ralph I'artridgtf, tli'' fhst pastor of Duxbiiry, "had the innoeenceuf u dovcnnd
the loftiness of au eagle. His epitaph is ' Avoluvit.' " — Math kii.

The Stamlish Ho\ise is on the harbor some distance from the S.
Dii.Khury Station. Its still-water bathing is good. From Duxbury Tost
Oliice to Plymouth, by the main road, is U M. At Duxbury is the
Anierieau end of the French Atlantic Telegraph.

5. Boston to Plymouth.

Via Old Colony Railroad, ;}7.^ M., in 1^ hrs.

Boston to S. Braintree, see Route 3. Stations, S. Weymouth^ N.
Abiaijton (('ulver House), AhingUm, S. Abhujbm (Wheeler House),
the last three stations being in a town of about 10,0(10 inhabitants,
who are mostly engaged in the manufacture of shoes. The line now
ai>i)roaches the great lake-strewn forest of the Old Colony, passing
the stations of X. Jlansoii, Hanson, Halifax, P/i/inpton, and Kings-
ton (Patuxet House, with daily stage to N. Carver). The train now
passes along the W. shore of Plymouth Harbor, with Cai)tain*s Hill
(Duxbury) prominent on the 1. across the water.

Plymouth, Umpame, or Patuxet. (Sanioset House, a largo and comfortable
liotel, near the II. II. Rtation. 31.50 to I? 2 a day).

Elizabeth, Queen of England, in I.'i58-G2, i)ut into operation the Acts of Su-
jircmatiy and Uniformity, and the Articles of Keligion, sternly forbidding all forms
of religious worship within her realm, save those jirescribed by the Chimdi of
Kiiglnnd, of which she was the head. Ahiiost simultaneously a sect sprang up,
(hiiming that the Anglican Church still retained many of the errors of U(»man
Cutlmlicism ; while, in opposition to the Queen's primacy and ecclesiastical laws,
tliey mainUiined that the church was spiritual, governed by the laws of Christ
given in the New Testament, and separate from tem]ioial affairs and independent
of earthly sovereigns. Hence they were called Separatists (sometimes Brown-
ists). They were imprisoned and martyred by the government, and in 1598 many
tied to Hollaml. Churches existed at Southwark and elsewhere, but the true
birthplace of the Pilgrim Church (if nut at Jerusalem) was at the deserted "Manor
of the Bishops " (of Ytjrk) at Hcrooby. Bancfoft, the new primate, redoubled tho
persecutions, in 1002, and in 1G08 tho church at Scrooby ran the blockade of the
English coast, and went to Amsterdam. In lOOG tho Pilgrims moved to Leyden,
and in 1G20 sailed from Delfthaven, via iS(nithampton, for America. On Sept.
0, the "Mayflower," previously driven back by adverse circumstances, left Ply-
mouth in England, intending to reach land and settle near the Hudson River. By
treacliery or otherwise they struck tlie continent far north of this ])oint, and on
the 21st Dec, 1020, the Pilgrims hmded at New Plymouth. Capt. 8mith was
severely attacked here by the Indians in 1014, and atandish's ruile forays ou
Cape Cod had enraged the aborigines, but the Wampanoag tribe, which in 1610
numbered 30,000 souls, had been reduced by a great war, followed by a pestilence,
to a remnant of 300. 13y the latter part of March, 44 Pilgrims had died, and then
the Sachem Massasoit made an alliance with the dwindling colony. In 1622 a
massive structure was erected for a church, with a battlemented i-oof and ord-
nance, which made it the castle of the village. In 1621 and 1623 other eompauiea

62 liotile 5.

BOSTON TO PLYMOUTH.

■\'

'«

of Pilji^.ijTns rrossed tlie sea, nftcrwliicli the colony tlirovo and occupied theneigli-
boiin;^ lands. In March, 10l!l, Saiuoset an(l Tisquantiun came in and told thoin
ul" tlic land (the latter having hucii stolen by Hunt, in :iG14, from the coast, and
soM at Malaga as a slave). In KL'!, the lirst cattle ever in New f]n}.'land were
landeil hen^ and 'u Mie same year Plymouth was found to consist of \v>. houses,
surrounded hy a h.>i,di i)alisade with fortihed gates. ('an:iiiieus, chief of the Narra-
gausetts, sent a sheaf of arr')ws bound witli a rattlesnake's skin, to t!(»v.
IJr.Mlfonl, as a token of hostility. The skin was filled witli iK)wder and shot, and
sent hack to Canonicus, wiio understood tiiis grim answer, and as loTig as he lived
restrained his trilie from attack' ; the colony. As one of the United Colonies,
1'1\ mouth bore her i)art in the Indian wars, until it finally joined the colony of
M.issachusetts Bay, in lt)9'2.

" Methinks I see itnow, that one, solitary, adventurous vessel, the 'Mayflower,'
of a forlorn hope, fniighted with the ])ros])e(!ts of a future state, and bound acro.ss
tii(> uid<nown sea. I 'tehoM it | .rsuing, with a thousand misgivings, the uncer-
tain, the tedious v.iyage. Sutis rise a;id set, and weiks and months j^ass, and
winter surin'ises them on 'he dee]!, but brings them not the sight of the wi.shed-
for shore. 1 see them now scantily sui)i)lied with provisions, cr'twded almost to
siiiroeati(m in their iil-storc.l prison, delayed by calms, jnirsuinga circuitous route ;
and now driven in fury befcu'e the raging tempest on the high and giduy waves.
.... Tlie awful voice. of the storm howls through tlie rigging. TIk; laboring
hi.ists seem straining from their base ; the dismal .sound of the pumps is heard ;
tiie ship leai)s, as it wci;;, madly, from billow to billow ; the ocean breaks and
.settles with engulting Hoods over the floating deck, and beats with deadening,
sliiv(n-ing weight against the staggered vessel. I see them, escaped from these
]>erils, ]iursuing their all but desjierate undertaking, and lauded at List, after a five
months' pao.sage, on the ice-clad rocks of I'lymouth, weak ai;d weary from the
^■>y''i{^*'i pooi'ly armed, . , . without shelter, without means, surrounded by hos-
tile tribes Tell me, man of military science, in how many months were

tliey all swejit away by the 'M savage tribes of New England ? Tell me, politician,
liow long did this Lihachvw of a colony, on which yc.ur conventions and treaties hail
not r.miled, langni.sh on the distant co.ast? .... Is it possible, that, from a Vje-
ginning so feeble, so frail, so worthy not so much of idmiration as of pity, there
has gone forth a progress so steady, a growth so wonderful, an expansion so
ani])le, a reality so importaVit, a promise, yet to be fulfilled, so glorious?" — Ed-
warp JtiVERKTT.

See also Mrs. Uemans' inimitable hymn, bcginninjr,

" The brcnking wnvos dnshed hij.'h
On a stern und mck-bouiid t'oust.

When a band of exiles moored their bark
Hy the wild New lliiglund sliore."

On Court St. is tlie classic * Pilgrim Hall, in front of which i.s a rock
ol gray sienitic granite, surrounded by an iron fence. This is "the cor-
ner-stone of the Repuhlic," a portion of the rock on "vvhich the Pilgrims
first stepped from their boats, and which was dra^wii from the water-
side in 1775.

The Pilgrim Ilall (opin dailr) contains ''The Lauding of the Pilgrims, "
a largo painting of much interest (13 x IG ft.), and nine i)ortraits ; busts
of Daniel Webster and John Adams ; Governor Carver's chair ; sword,
kc, of Miles Standish ; the gun-barrel with which King Philip was
lulled, and a letter from King Philip ; embroidery by Lorea Standish ;
and a great number of rulios of tlie early colonists, with an elegant model
of the monument which is to be,

Th(i principal ledge of * Forefathers' Pvjck is on Water St., and is
covered by a singular edifice (canopy) of granite, in whose iittie has been
2)l:iced the boi\es of several men who died in the winter ot" 1620-1.

'^m SHt f SW^ y Hg i J ftwfyg^ ■

BOSTON TO PLYMOUTH

lioute 5. 53

Town Green is at tlie end of Alain Street. On tno site of the present
Gothic Unitarian Clmrch older churches were built in the tirst days.
The remarkably homely Church of the Pilgrimage (Cong.) stands near
by. Opposite this church is the Town Hall, built in 1749. To the
r. of the Uiiitarian Church is the path to the * Burying Hill, where
many of the Pilgrims were interred. Ancient and moss-covered tomb-
stones cover the green slopes, with here and there more pretentious mon-
n'iaents, as those to Gov. Bradford, Elder Cushman, and others. In
1622, the embattled church was built on this hill, with six cr.imon on its
sheltered flat roof. Every man brought his gun and anmiunition to
church, and sentinels, on a tower, watched incessantly. Tht * view from
Burying Hill is fine, embraciiig the harbors of Plymouth and Duxbury,
Captain's Hill, Cape Cod, Manomet Hills, &c. Leyden St., the first
street in New England, runs E. from Town Square to the water. Near
the foot of Middle St. and W". of the canopy-covered rock, is a small
green space called Cole's Hill, where re buried 50 of the Mayflower
company (including Gov. Carver), 1620-21. Near the Pilgrim
Hall are the ha!;Jsome County buuuings ; and on Training Green,
near the High School, is a monument to the town's soldiers who died in
the War for the Union. Behind the High Scho(d is Watson's HHl, where
Massasoit appeared in Maich, 1621, with 60 warriors, and concluded a
league with the handful of Pilgrims which was sacredly kept for 50 years.
Billington Sea, one of the two hundred ponds which are in the vast
Ply inouth Forest ("the Adirondacks of Massachusetts"), is about 2 M.
from the vill.lgo, and is ih M. around. About 3 M. S. of Plymouth is
the Clifford House, a favorite summer resort. S. W. ( " Plymouth i.s
the lofty promontory of Manomet, near which is tlie viUag (hotel) of
Manomet Ponds. A strip of sand 3 M. long forms a natural breakwater
before the town, on which, in Dec, 1779, the war-ship "Gen. Aniold"
was wrecked, and 70 men <'rozon to death on her decks. In the N. part
of the harbor is Clark's Island, where the Pilgrims remained Dec. 9th
and 10th, 1620. Beyond are the prominent points of Sacpiish and the
G-^rnet, on the latter of which is a lighthouse.

On a liigh hill near the Samoset House 9 acres of laud have been 'nought, and
1,500 tons of granite laid as foumhition for a National Monument to the Fore-
fathers. On an oetagonal pcilestal of granite 40 ft. higli, will st-iind a .statue of
Faith, also 40 ft. high (the "Havaria^' at Miuiich is 42 ft. high). Her right hand
is uplifted, and her left hohls a Bible. On pedeslals about the base will be, four
sitting statues repre.senting the cardinal principles of the Pilgrim coiiniioiuvealth,
— Morality, Law, Education, and Freedom. Euch of these is to be 20 ft. high,
with 8 statues in niched panels by their thrones, each of which will be 9 ft. high.
Historical records and bas-reliefs will adorn the sides of the i)edestal, and an in-
ternal stairway will lead to the feet of Faith. Statues, pedestal, aud^all, are t(j bu
of granite.

64 Route 6.

BOSTON TO CAPE COD.

6. Boston to Cape God.

¥.

Via Old Colony R. R., Boston to Wellfleot, 106 miles, in 4^-5 hours. Fare,
.$3.05. Two trains daily. Boston to S. IJraintree, see Route 3.

Station, llolh^ook^ with a pretty little Victoria Gothic Town Hall.
Station, /'■. Stoufjhion, after which the line pas.ses through a district
which illustrates the poverty oi' the American mind in the matter of
I'.aming towns. Four towns, each containing many square miles, are
named respectively, N. Bridffewo.ter, W. IJridi/ewatf)', E. Jiridfjeu'citer,
and Bridgcwater. Stations, iV. Brklgeioater (Standi.sh House), Campcllo,
Keith's, E. and W. Bridfjcioater.

Bridgewater, Sawtucket (Hyland House), was bought of the Indians
by Miles Standi.sh in ItJiS. In 1710, Hugh Orr, a Scotchman, erected a
trip-hammer here, and in 1748 made 500 muskets for the Province
of Massachusetts, the same being tije fii.st made in this country. Duruig
the Revolution, he made great numbers of iron and brass cannon, and
cannon-ball.'H for the ontinental army.

A branch railroad, 7 miles long, runs from Bridgewater to S. Ahinritan,
on the Plymouth Branch li. R. Stations, Titicut anf! Middleboro (No-
masket House), a prosperous town (of about ,5,000 inhabitants), where
several railways unite.

Between S. Braintrce and Fall River the Old Colony R. R. has two divisions,
eastern and v;e.sterr;, several mil s ajiart. On the we; t'> u division (the shorter
of the two) the st 'tmboat trains run, while tin ea.stem ui^. i.sion, running E. of S.
from Boston to jliddleboro, hero turns sharply to the 8. W. to Fail River and
Newport. From Middleboro to Fall River by tin main (eastern) line is 14 M.,
passing stations Tjikerilh', Miirick's, and Assur.d. At Myriok's, the New Bedford
an<l Taunton R. R. crosses tiie Old Colony R. R. (Myric'k's to New Bedford in ^
hr.). A railroad runs from Middleltoro to T :n:;ton direct, a distance of 10|
M. (fare 40 c), i)assing the stations Lir\eviUc, C.'iace's, E. Tnnvton, and Weir. 3-4
M. S. of Mid(lki)oro is a chister of great ponds, abounding in fish. Asowamsett
Pond (Lakeville H.tuse) is the largest Si:ci;t of fresh water in the State, and con-
tains (5-8 square miles. On its shores Capt. Dermer was received by the WaM-
l)anoag saclunns in IGIO, and here the anti-English chief, Corbitant, revolted
against Massasoit, in 1G'21, and seized the Plymouth envoys. Standish promptly
marchetl forth, fell upon Corbitant's cam]t b^' niglit, and achieved success in the
lirst warlike o.xi'cdition n-ade from Plymouth.

The Cape C' ■'■ Division of the 0. 0. R. R. begins at Middleboro.
Stations, A'ocA*, .S. Middleboro, and TrcTiont, or W.Warclmm.

From Trcmont thj Fairhavcn Branch runs to New Bedford (16 M.), passing the
stations Marion, Maltapoi!<ctt, and Fairhavcn. 3 M. S. of Marion station (Old
Landing), passing Sippican village, is White House Beach, fronting on Sippican
Harbor. 3-4 M. fron> Marion station is t high ]iromontory, surrounded on three
Bides by Buzzards Bay and Wing's Cove, on which is a favorite summer hotel, the
Gieat iiill House. Mattapoiselt (Mattapoisett House) is a .5mall village near
Buzzards Bay, with fine water-views and large inland forests. The fishing in the
inlets IS fine.

After passing Tremont station, on the Cape Cod R. R., the line
passes through the town of Wareham, the nortliern inlets of Buzzards
Bay being often seen on the r. Stations, S. Wareham, Wareham (Ken-

i- »'

!^ ^

-/v^%J»t*se**w».-5Bfe««-'A^''»''^fl*''?»'^^

BOSTON TO CAPE COD.

Route 6. 55

Fare,

driok's Hotel), E. Wareham, and Cnhasset Narrovs, where is the junction
of the R. R. for Falmoutli, Martha's Vineyard, &c. (See Route 7.)
Soon after, the Straits between Buzzards and Buttermilk Bays are crossed,
and then follow the stations, Monnment, N. S'duhnch, W. Sandicich,
and Sandwich. " The Cape extends E. from Sandwich 35 M., and thence
N. and N. W. 30 more, in all Qd, and has an average breadth of 6 M."
It is nearly all sand, with boulders dropped on it here and there. Hitch-
cock thinks that the ocean has eaten out Boston Harbor, and other bays,
and bxiilt Cape Cod of tlie minute fragments. A thin layer of soil
reaches as far as Truro; 'n)ut there are many holes and rents in this
weather-beaten garment not likely to be stitched in time which reveal
the naked flesh of the Cape, and its extremity is completely bare."

It is believed that the shores of Cape Cod are the Furdustrandas (Wonder-
Strands) discovered by Thi>rliall, tlie Norsfinan, in the year 1007. ("When they
were ready, and their sail hoisted, Thorhall san^' : Let us return where our peoj)le
are. Let us make a bird (vessel), alvilftil to lly through the heaven of sand, to ex-
l)lore the broad traelv of ships ; wliile warriors who impel to the tempest of
swords, who praise tiie laud, iniiabit V»'ouder-Strauds, and cook whales.") In
]ri24, Verrazzani, in the frigate " Dauphin," coasted about Cape Cod, which is
inobably his " Cape Arenas," and in 15ii5, the Portuguese mariner Gomez, explored
and mapped much of southern New England. The first Anglo-Saxon in New
England war, Capt. Gosnold, who coasted and named Cape Cod in the year 1002,
having caught many codlish thereabouts, and landed at dilferent points.

In 1G04, Champlaiu visited this locality, and named it Cap Blanc (White Cape),
because the sand contrasted so with the darl; rociis of the northern coasts. A
harbor on the S. E. he named Mallebane, which name still clings to the S. E.
Cape. In IGOi), Hendrick Hudson, with a vessel of the Dutch E. I. Company,
rediscovered Cape Cod, naming it Ne\v Holland, and found a mermaid near by,
concerning which (or whom) he gives a curious account. In 1614, Capt. John
Smith visited the Cape, and describes it as "a headland of high hills of sand,
overgrown Avith shrubby pines, hurts, and such trash, but an excellent harbor for
all weather." Prince Charles, his patron, named it Cape James, but the name
did not take. About this time tlu; infamous Capt. Hunt kidnapped a ship-load
of Indians from the coast, so when Harlow landed at the Ca]ie late in 1G14, he
was attacked, and only escapiid (witii loss) by cannonading the attacking flotilla
of canoes. In 1016, a French ship grounded or anchored near the Cape, was car-
ried by boarding, and the Indians killed all on board savt; four, whom they sent
far and wide through the country as curious trophies. The horrible i)estilence
which immediately after passed over Massachusetts, was attributed by the Indian
doctors to tliis fact. In 1020, the vanguard of the Pilgrims appeared in one of
the Capo harbors, and erelong many villages si)rang uji here. In 1623, the blame-
less chiefs, Cawnacome, Sachem of Manomet (Sandwich), Aspinet of Nauset
(Chatham), and lyanough of Cummaquid (Barnstable), w.-re witli the council at
Weymouth when Standish made his attack. They escajied and hiil in the swamps
of the Cape, where they soon died of sorrow and privation, au<l too late it was
proven that they were perfectly iunoceut. Notwithstanding their unfavorable
experiences of Christian civilization, the Cape Indians passed under its influence,
and soon 6 Indian churches and IS assemblies, with 24 native pastors, were num-
bered there. Conseciuently, at the outbreak of the war of 1675, they repudiated
their ancient allegiance to King Fliilip, and remained faithful to the colouists.

Sandwich (Central House) is a village near the S. edge of the Pljmouth
Forest, and distant 12 M. from Plymouth. The extensive glass-works
are near the station.

From W. jBa/vis^aWe station stages run to Cotuit Port, "the home of
gonial .sportsmen," 6-7 M. distant, on the S. shore of the Cape. The

56 Route 6.

BOSTON TO CArp] COD.

it-

if.,

If;

highlands about the little harbor on wliicli the village is situated are

partly clothed with pine woods and inter8i)ersed with many fresli ponds.

The Santiiit House, near the beaches on the S, shore, is much visited in

summer. Barnstable is a quiet village with the county buildings.

On Great Neok, in Marshpee (Massapee), a few M. W. of Cotuit Port, was the
chief village of tlie Cape Indians who dwelt on this reservation. lu l(j58, Rieh-
aril Bourne went there us a niissif»iiarv, and fnimed a clmrch of whieh he was
I)a.stor until his death in 1(585. Before KiuK Philip's War there were 10,000
Christian Indians in New England. Many of these, including scores of tlic Mas-
sapees, were killed tlghting for their white ])rethren, or else, remaining neutral,
were treated pitihiswly by the coluiu.sts. Nearly eveiy man of the Massapees
.ioined the 1st Mass. Reg. in 1775, and but few returned. fJideon llawley (Yale
College, 1740) preached hen; 1758-1807. In ISO;^, the last pure-blooded Indian
died, 8o many of the nuiu died in the War for Iiidept udence, that negroes .joined
the tribe, an<l it is now a eolleftion of Ind')-.\fri( an half-breeds. In 18;i4, in
response to tlieir " Bill of Complaints " .signed by 287 jiersons, the State granted
them limited powers of autonomy. In 1850, about 200 persons were left on the
reservation.

Yarmouth is coeval with Barnstable, Near it is a favorite Methodist
camp-ground. A branch R. R, runs from Yarmouth to Hyannis (lya-
nongh Mouse), the point of departure for the st?amcrs to Nantucket (80
miles). Extensive beaches bordered by bluffs covered with groves are
near Hyannis.

Stations, S. Yarmouth, S. Dennis, not far from Scargo Hill, the highest
land on the Cape, froni which a noble ocean view is afforded. Stations,
JV, Ilarv-ich, Jlanoich (Central House, Atlantic), tb nciont home of
the Satuck<.'t Indinns.

Bre ivsteii ^CK tcn House, Union House), was named in honor of Eider
Brewster, of the Mayflower Pilgrims. Large and singular boulders are
found here. Many sailors and captains belong in this town, and Grleavs
(Higgins House) and Enstham, which was settled by the Pilgrims in 1644,
\inder the Icid of Tlioma.s Prince, who was for sixteen years govern-
or of Plymouth. A fortified church, twenty ft. square, was built, an;i
a part of every stranded whale was by law reserved for the ministry.

At Millennium Grove in this town were long held extensive camp-meet-
ings. The line now passes, on the E., the broad, sandy plains of Nauset.
Stations, N. Efisthxrm (Nauset House), S. WeUjt.eet, Wcllfieei (Holbrook's
Hotel). Wellfl«^et Bay opens on Cape Co(i Bay (tlie Baye Blanche of
Champlain), and is distant from Boston l(>t5 M. by R. R. and 70 M. by
water. This village lias 100 vessels and nearly i,000 men in the mackerel
fishery. The railroad ends at Welllieet, and stages connect with it for
Provincetown, although it is said that late in 1873 a through track will
be laid. North of Wellfieei is Truro, ;i large, desolate district, on
one of whose beaches the Britisli friga!' " Sunierset '' was wrecked in
1778, and 480 men made prisoners. Neat Welltleet, in 171S, the " Wh.i-
dah," a pirate-ship mounting 23 guns, was wrecked, and 130 buccaneers
were drowned. Truro war, .settled in HCX under the name of j^arij; r-

BOSTON TO CAPE COD.

Route 0. 57

field, as it has perhaps the most fatal coast in New England. Scores of
vessels have been dashed in pieces on its shore, and hundreds of lives
have been lost. There is scarcely a family in Truro, or indeed on the
whole Cape E. of Barnstable, but has lost some member by the disasters
of the sea. Truro lost 57 men and 7 vessels, and Dennis lost 28 men in
one day of 1811. The lofty Fresnel burners of the famous Highland
Light (at Clay Pounds on the outer shore of Truro) shed a vivid radiance
over leagues of rude coast and deep sea.

Thorpjiu walked from Orloiiiis to Provincetown (soveral days) on the ocean side
of til is "sand-bar in the midst of the sea," and says : — •

"The nearost beach to us on the cast was on the coast of Galicia, in Spain,
whose capital is Santiago, thotigh by old poets' rcckoniiif,' it should have been
Atlantis or the ITesperides ; but heaven is found to bo farther west now. At first
we wore abreast of that jiart of Portiiijtal eutro Poiiro e iMino, and then Galicia
and the jiort of Pontevedro opeiu-d to us as wc walked along : but wo did not en-
ter, the breakers ran so higli. Tliebold headland of (.'ape Flnisterre, a little north
of cast, jutted toward us next, with its vain brag, for we flung l>ack, — ' Here is
Cape Cod, Cape fjand's beginning.' A little indentation towanl the north — for
the land loomed to our imaginations like a conuuon mirage— we knew was the
Bay of Biscay, and we sang :

* There wo Uiv fill next day,

In tlie liay of Biscay, O ! '"

"A little south of oast was Palos, where Columbus weighed anchor, and farther
yet the ]iillars which Hercules sot up."

Truro is "a village where its able-bodied men are all ploughing the ocean
together as a common field. In X. Truro the women and girls may sit at their
doors and see where their husbamls and brothers are Imrvesting their mackerel
15-20 M. off, on the sea, with hundreds of white han-est- wagons."

The 2nd Mass. Ctnitinental Reg. marched from this E. end of the Cape, and
fought through the Revolution.

In Nov., 1020, Standish au'l 16 men, "with nuisket, sword, and corslet,"
landed at l^ong Point, Provincetown, chased the iiurcsisting Indians into Truro,
pillaged many graves, and carried off everything jiort," ile. They were attacked in
Kastham, by Indians, but the arrows fell harnile.ssly from their corsleti, while
the nuisket-shot told on the half-dad red men.

Provincetown (Allstntm House, Central House) is a curious ma-
rine village, distant from Boston 118 M. by land and 55 M. by water
(steamer leaves t!entral Whaif, Boston, Wednesday and Saturday morn-
ings, returning on Monday and Thursday mornings. Fare 61-50).

Tlie Harbor is a noble one, broad and clear, and is the favorite refuge
of the fishing fleets. The energies of the townsmen are devoted to the
fisheries — of mackerel, cod, and sperm-whales, in wliose pursuit they
search the wildest and nmst distant banks and bays of the N. Atlantic.
The village lies along the l)each between tlio sea and the desert, — an in-
habited beach, where fishernien cure and store their tish, without any
back country.

This is the last town in that strange region where the peojde "are said to be
more purely the descendants of the Pinitans than the inhabitants of any other
part of the State." From these .shores come the most daring and skilful cf
Anierica?\ seamen. " Wherfi\er over the vorld you see the stars an<l strijies lloat-
ing, yon may have good hope that l-encath iliera some one will be found who vmn
tell you the ■Jomidings of Barnstable, or Wellt>pt, or Chathara Harbor." " Caj e

1 ',

• -I
•J

>. 1

58 Route 7. BOSTON TO MARTHA'S VINFA'ARD

Cod ia tlip l)arc and 1)pik1p(1 nrin of Mass.ipTinsetts ; the shonldf-r is at Buzzards
Bay ; the flhovv, or crazy-lMHn;, at Cajits Mak-bane ; the wrist Truro, and the
sandy fist at Pr'>vin'etown, beiiind wliich the iState stands on e.r guard, with
I'cr i>ark to thr ( Jroen Mts., and linr feet jdanted on the floor (< Mie (Jcean, lil<e
an atlilete, --jirotectin;,^ lier Bay, boxing; with N. K. storms, and, . m r and anon,
heaving uji iier Atlantic adversary fiom tlie lap of earth, ready to thrust lur-
ward her other fist, whieh keeps guard the while upon her breast at Cai)e Ann."

The era of constitutional government dawned upon the world, when, on Nov.
11, 1C20, the storm-tossed Mayflower anchored in Provineetown Harbor. Here,
"on the bleak shores of a barren wilderness, in the midst of desolation, with
the blast of winter bowling around them, and surrounded with dangei-s in
their most awful and ai>iialling forms, the I'ilgrims of Leydeu laid the foundations
f>f American liberty." While the Mayflower lay in this harbor, that eelebratrd
C'oini»act was drawn up and signed, whicli long governed i'lymouth and her de-
pendencies, and of which J. Q. Adams says : "This is, perhaps, the only instance
in liuman history of that positive original social compact which si>eculative
philosoi)hers have imagined as the only legitimate source of government." This
solenni compact (given below) was signed by 41 men (of whom 21 died in the next
foiu' months), 17 of whom had their wives with them, the remaining 43 persons
being young ])eo))le and (diildren.

" In the name of God, Anu'u. We, whose names are underwritten, the loyal
subjects of our dread sovereign lord. King James, by the grace, of God, of Great
Britain, France, and Ireland, King, defender of the faith, &c., having undertaken,
for the glory ol God, and advancement of the Christian faith, and lionor of our
king and country, a voyage to i>lant the first colony in the northern parts of Vir-
ginia, do, by these juesents, solemnly and mutually, in the i)reseiu-e of God and
of one another, covenant and combine ourselves together into a civil body politic,
for our better ordering and presei"'ation, and furtheraTice of the ends aforesaid ;
and by virtue hereof to eiact, cci -ititute, and frame .-luch just and equal laws,
ordinances, acts, constitutions, and oilices, from time to time, as shall be thought
most meet and expedient for the general good of the colony; unto which we
promise all due sulimission and obedience. In '-vitn.iss whereof we iiave hereun-
der inscribed our names, at Cape Cod, the 11th of Novend)er, in the year of the
reign of our soverign lord, King James, of England, France, and Ireland, the
ISth, and of fScotland tlie 54th, Anno Uomini, 1G20."

^■i

»• '!

I i
t

7. Boston to Martha's Vineyard and Nantacket.

Via Old Colony R. R. and Steamers. To Martha's Vineyard 80 M., in 3J-4
hours.

New Yorlc to Martha's Vineyard and Nantucket. To Fall River by steam-
boat (Route li), thence to Myrick's (not by the steamboat train, but lafcr)^ Thence
to New Bedford, and Irom there bv steamboat to Martha's Vineyard (in all, 225
M.).

Boston to Cohasse.t Narrows see Ronte 6. After Cohasset NaiTOivs, the
line runs due S. for IS M., on the E. shore of Buzzards Bay, passing sta-
tions, N. Falmniith (near which is Pocasset, abounding in shell-fish, with
the Red-Brook House and Bay View Cottage, ) W. Falmouth, and Fal-
mouth, a quiet old port, which had " kept on the back side of the Cape,
and let the centuries go by " until 1872, when the railroad aroused it.
Near the village on the S. E. are Falnioutli Heights, where a conijiany of
Worcester men, in 1870, bought 120 acres of land (with two small lakes,
several groves, and a mile of beach), to be cut up into lots for a summer
village. Tower's Hotel, 100 ft. long (opened 1871), fronts on Vineyard
Sound, with a view of Martha's Vineyard from its lofty position. Still-
water bathing on the beach. A R. R. Station will probably be made near

V-.-

*?*"'»' ">'^J)9!»5<i(Sl-ES-T«S3'

AND NANTUCKET.

lioulc 7. 59

3^4

s, the
sta-
with
Fal-
Cape,
d it.
iiy of
;ikes,
nier
yard
Still-
near

the Heights, Tlie last station is Wood's Hole, whence the steamer car-
ries passengers across the Sound (7 M.) to Martha's Vineyard.

Martha's Vineyard.

* Sea-Foam House, a new and sninptuoua hotel, gas-lighted, steam-heated, with
elevator, biliiard-roon), &c., acconiniodatos 250 guests. >i\.bO per day. * Iligh-
land House. On Circuit Avenue, in Oak Blufl's Village, are several good hotels,
on the Euro])ean i)lan ; Baxter House, Pawnee House, Central, Island, &o.

RcHtaurants at tlie Baxter and Pawnee Houses, &c.

Pleasure- Boats at the yea-Foam Hotel.

8ea-batlis at the bathing-houses, on Circuit Avenue beyond Ocean Park
(30 c.).

In May, 1G02, Capt. Gosnold coa.stcd the island on the H., and landed on a bar-
ren islet (No Man's Land) to the S. W. which he named Martha's Vineyard. He
then landed on this i.sland (then callcil Nope), an<l foiuid, in S. Iv Chilmark, deer
and all kind of game, .springs and a lake of pure fresh water, four kinds of ber-
ries in profusion, and trees loaded with fruitful vines. Probably then, or dur-
ing his .stay at Cuttyhunk (over three weeks) tlie name was transf(;rred from No
Man's Land to its jiresent posse.s.sor. The name is thought to have l>een given in
honor of some friend of the Captain's, or else for the lady of some one of his
l)atrons. (A newsiiajier (lorrcspondent states that the ohlest inhabitant, who
owned these isles, gave them to his daughters ere he died. Rhoda took Rhode
I.sland, Elizjibeth took the ishin'l since uamed for her, Mavthn took and named
Martha's Vineyard, and as for the remaining island, Nan-took-it. The legend is
interesting, but cannot Ix' traced back fartlu'r than the year 1870.) Fnun this
island and the neighboring main, Gosnold antl Pring (l()0;i) got laixe cargoes of
sassafras, then esteemed a sovereign specific in Europe. In 1614, Capt. Hunt
stole 27 Indians at Eastham. on Cape Cod, aiul sold them as slaves at Malaga, for
•S 100 each. One of them, Epeiiow, was carried to r.ngland, wliere the sly fel-
low told of vast gokl-mines on this island. A .ship was sent over, at great ex-
pense, with Epenow to show the place, but as soon as he saw the sho7>-, he leaped
over, swam to land, and was not s«?eu *i):.<un until Cai't. Dernier landed here in
1()19. In M dashing attack couducticd Ny Epenow, the Cai>tain and many of his
men were killed and wounded. In lii-^", Thwuat> Ma.} In'w, Governor of the Islands
by grant from the Earl of Stirlji^;, settle*! at Edgartown. The lordship of the
isles remained in the Mayhew -tnnly from M>41 to 1710, dnxing which time the
kindness of these men won tV ■^carts of tlie inatiAcs. The Mnyliews were all
missionaries, and, learning the lii«iian language, i«reachc<l Avith sik li su<'cess that
Christian ^illages arose all over the islanil. During King Pliiliji's War, the con-
verts remained trtie, ami guarded the shores. Altout KiGO, some Qii kei-s landwl
here calling the Purit.iu pastors "i)nests of Baal," bui tlie Indians so<.ii drove
tiiein off. Gookin visited the i.sland in 1674, and found six towns of Christian
Indians, " a very fruitful Vineyard unto the Lord (if Hosts." For a century the
Indians slowly dwindled, and the coasting vessels began to frerpient Holmes' Hole
in yearly increasing -lumbers. In 1778, i.ord Gray (who defeated Wayne at Paoli)
with a British force, destroyed a large immlier of vessels in the Hole. In 1S3.'>, '.>
tents were pitihed at the present Camp-Grounds, and the first camp-meeting on
the island was held.

The Wesleyaii Grove, or Camp-Meeting Ground, is near the Sea View
House and is laid out "in gracefully curved streets, grass-paved and crowded
Avitk small but vigorous trees. Near Trinity Park, a wide lawn, is the
great tabern.ic.le tent 160 by 120 ft. wiiich can .shelter 5,000 persons.
This is the centre of intense excitement during the meetings in late
Augiist, Avhen from 20,000 to 2.'i,000 ])eople are gathered here, and emi-
nent Methodist preachers address them. Lake Anthony borders the N.
and W. of the ground, and beyond it, on the high bluffs toward East
Chop Light, the "Highlands" have been laid out under the influence of

' >.'

i ."

60 Route 7. BOSTON TO MARTHA'S VINEYARD

the Methodists. On the E. and S. of tlie Camp-Ground is the village of
Oak Bluffs, laid t in 18(58, on hhiffs 30 ft. high fronting Vineyard Sound.

Among the oiuv groves here are hundreds of Swiss and Gothic cottages,
resembling large bird-houses, bright and clean and cheerful. On a hill
near the centre is a curious, many-sided Muscovite chapel, which is used
often but floats no denominational flag. It is said that some come to Oak
Bluffs ''wlio know and care nothing for Jerusalem or its former inhabi-
tants," wherefore strict police rules aie here enforced.

The steamer runs to Edgartown daily, and a fine road, 6 - 8 M. long,
leads there. The village of Edgartown (Ocean House, Vineyard House)
was founded in 1G47 by Gov. Mayhew, and is at present the cai)ital of
Dukes County. It has a fin(! harbor, sheltered by Chai»paquiddick Island,
and possesses a small maiine museum.

10 M. from Oak BIufl« is South Beach, where tlie Atlantic rolls in
grandly after a storm.

By walking to the East Chop Light, a view is gained of Holmes' Hole,

or Vineyard Haven, one of the most famous harbors on the coast, where,

in seasons of stonn, hundreds of vessels take shelter under the lofly bluffs.

Through Vineyard Somid passes the vast and unceasing ])rocession of

commerce fjonj New York and Southern New England to Boston and

the East.

20-25 M. S. W. of Oiik BliifTs is Oaylieacl, noar whicli is tlie Devil's Den, a
Willi H|Mil wlicn^ tlic (lid Iiuliiiii IriHlllfiiiiH Hiiy tli.'it the gidiit M();,lini» lived, wlio"
nillgiit wliiilrs fiiiil roiistcfl tlicm on troos whicli lie lore up by llif' rmita. He
nielanioritliosnl IiIh cliiitlrcn iiilu llsli, aiid, on Ills wife's Iniiu-nUng, lie tluvw licr
ii) MccoiincI, wliirt! hIii' dwelt iiiid l<'vicd (■(iiihllHiliinri on nil who passed tho
rocks, until kIic lit'irti'lr licciiiin a rocli. 'I'licii Miislnili di,'i(i|i|ic ircd (Voiii hinnan
sight and laidwli'dge. (lay Ib'iid is " (ho must rcnmikalih iiiitnial ruiiosity in
Now Kii»lfUul." Tim s(Nl view iiimi the iifditlwHiHH Ih ur/ind. "Never since I
Htood on Tablo Uiu'U hiWc 1 seen a sigh! sn gland mh thlH." (hHFHAU Twioom,
AboTit this i)V(>iiiontoiy several score of halrlireed Indians live a straMgc wuHfUU'tt
life. The rcniaiKable clills by the sliore havi been closely stndicd by f'rof //it'h-
cock and Sir Charles Lyell, the latter describing thoni as "the lofty cliffs of Gav-
hoad, more than 2W II hit;ii, where the highly inclined tertiary strata are g.iyly
colored, sonic consisting oi light red clays, others of white, yellow, and gr*en,
and Houm n|' black lignite."

Nantuoket

is iJS - no M. from Martha's Vineyard, and connected with it by a daily
steamer. After leaving the Vineyard astern, the islands of Miiske^^ and
Tnckemuck are seen in the S., and near them the low shores of W. Nan-
tucket. Tlie town of Nantucket presents a fine apy/carance from the
water, being built on hills. Hotels — Ocean House, $2.50-3.00 (occu-
pying the old mansion of one of the marine aristocracy), a comfortable
hotel, famous for its chowders ; and the Adams House.

The Indian tradition is that the Great Spirit was once smoking, when he partly
filled his pipe with sand. When tlie mixed remains were emptied from the pipe
into the sea, they formed the Island of Nantucket. Its name is said to be an

5.iJS'J?^'W' ■'"■l:- ^JSrtSift'lV^^SSflfec'Jf^

a daily

■^ and

. Nan-

■Dm the

(occu-

brtable

partly
the pipe
to be an

AND NANTUCKET.

Route?. 61

«i

Iiiilian iiKxlifuation of Nautikoii, a name left by the Nnrsomon who vialted it in
tliu lltli century- The best iiuthority i)ronounce.s it ;i (Mirriiiition of an Imliau
v/oi'il iiieanin.; " lar away." It is called Natocko on tlie map of IO.'U). It wa^
Yi..iti'(l liy Gusnold in 1(102, at wliieli time about l.TioO Indians were here, and the
iriland was covered witli oaks. In IGOl, Chainplain and i'outrincourt landed hero
.".nd remained several <lays, for the relief of those men of their command who
liad Ijeen wounded in a battle with the Indians at Chatham. Weary and dis-
cpirited, they eea.sed their e.\j)lorations here, and returned to Port Royul, naming
llii'sr sad sliores "Isle Dontcnsc." In 1041, Mayhcw was made Governor of
the Islands, his sway extending here. In lO.')!*, he deeded j}, of tlu! island to ten
men for .i::iO and two beaver hats, and one family moved tliere, there being then
7i'() friendly Indians on Nantucket.

In l(iGr> King Philip visited his iteoplo here, and in l(i71 the town was ineor-
jtorated (at Maddecpiet, 5-() .M. W. from the prestnit town), and in 1G72 moved to
its present i»laee. In 1072 the llrst whale was taken. In 1G7:{ the town was called
'herburne by the New York CJovernor, in whose domain it was until 16i)H (the
name was retained till 17!)j). The 701) English had no i hurch or ]>astor, though
the Indians had four churches. A white church was l\>rmeil in 1711. In 17o5 -0
1» whaling-sloojis were sunk or captured, and l)ut few men of their crews ever re-
turned. In 1704, there were '},'2i!0 whites on the island ; and a pliigne, the same
year, swci)t off j} of the Indians, leaving but 1.'50. 1,000 Nantucket men died in
the Continental Army. In 1784 the iiopnlation was larger than it is now. In
1S21, 7S sliii)s and 81 smaller vessels were owned here, ami most . engaged in
whaling. Tin; last Indian died in 1S22. Notwith.standin,!j devastating lires in the
town, Nantucket in 1840 had 9,712 inhabitants.

The town (100 huUdings) wa.s l)urnc'd down in 1846, and tlie .same year
the whaling Inusiness began to decline, until now there is Init one small
vessel engaged in it, and in the to\,-n which has houses for 10,000 people
there are but about 4,200. The houses are of a quaint old style, with
platforms on the roofs (whence to watch the ships conung in). Tlie North
C!hurch was the first on the island, and was built in 1711. It is still used
by the same society as a vestry, and its oaken timbers are hard as iron.
\ M. from the Ocean House, on Centre St., is a small house which was
built in 1GS2. The hospitality of the old families of Nantucket is famous,
and its churches and schools are numerous. Many houses have been
taken down and shipped away, Imt of late real estate is rising, as city
men are securing summer homes here. Maiii St., at the head of which
is thfc old I'aci/ic Bank, has the shops of the town (shells and marine
i'^mo%\i'n» may be bought here), and is a wide, deserted, grassy street lead-
ing to thfe ii^i^ads of silent and decaying wharves. The low, sanily beach
which ^pjteltew the liarl>or stretches N. W. 8-9 M. to Oreat Point, leav-
ing a wide and (jui"t lagooii between it and the islaml. At the Athenaeum
i» a public hi>r»ry aed a jiiU>/eum of marine curiosities and relics of the
<Ad«r days of N m i li t ^ lftet/ The Squantum is a peculiar institution of the
ialand, l*;ing an irrfvrwial j/icnic on the beach-sands, where the dinner is
made of fimh or otJier »pfAh of tlie sea. Excursions to the fishing grounds
are managed by veteran skippers, who let tliemselves and their boats
cheaply. There are riiks to the ancient districts on the W. shore, to the
beaches on the S. shoie, and to Siascon.set. Siasoonset (Atlantic House)
is 8 M, S. of E. from tlie town, and (ionsists of a cluster of cottages on a
high bank flouting tlie ocean. Surf-ljatiilng here is safe only when the

G2 nouleS.

BOSTON TO NEW YOllK.

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batliers use ropeH, as tlie shore desceiuls rapidly. 1 M. N. of Siasconset
is Siiiikoty Ili'ud, where a powerful Frt'siul light is elevated on a far-view-
ing IjlutriH) tt. high. 1 M. N. of Siinkoty Heu.i is the I'eantiful Sesacacha
Pond, of pure, sweet water and ahounding in fish (small inn on the shore).
In 1()7(> a village was built on this jjond and remained for 140 years ; but
its last house was torn down in 1820. Most of the island, over which
rambles may bo made, consists of high, breezy, sea-viewing plains, where
but few fences or luMises are seen, and which "the traveller will call
downs, prairies, or i)ampas, as he happens to come from England,, the
West, or Buenos Ayres."

8. Boston to New York.

Via Boston an<1 Piovidence II. K., and Shore Linn to New York (in 8 hrs.), or
Ijy steamer troui I'rovi'l^nce, or by steamer from Stouington (in 12- 13 Ins.)

The train leaves the .station in Boston (PI. 29), (on Pleasant St., at Iho
foot of the Comn)on), and passes the suburban stations, Ruxhnry, Jamaica
Plain, and Hyde Park, by licadcille (wheie during the war for the
Union the State had a vast camj)), to Canton, (Massaj)oag House,
Poukapuug House), a large manufacturing town. Canton was the seat
of a large Indian village, wliere the Ajjostle Eliot was wont to preach,
and in 1845 several imre-blooded Indians remained. From Blue Hill
(635 ft. high), E. of the village, is gained a line * view of Boston and its
harbor, the ocean, and many busy villages.

Commodore Downes, who eonnnanded tlio Essex, Jr., wlien Porter swept the
Pacific, was enKUf^ed in tlie Tripolitan War, and in 1815 caiitured tlie Algerian
frigate " Nashouda," was Imihi at Canton. His son connnanded the gunboat
" He' Ml " and the monitor " Xahant," in the War for the Union.

Near a massive granite viaduct ((500 ft. long, 03 ft. liigh), in this town, the
Htoughton Branch 11. U. leaves the main line, running 4 M. to 8:oughton, on the
Old Colon}- U. R.

/S/iarow(t'obb's Tavern) is in a hilly and picturesque manufacturing town.
E. Foxhoro', Mansfield (Eagle Hotel), whence a railroad runs thi'ough
Nvrton and Taunton to New Bedford (Route 9). W. Mansfield, Attle-
bvrouyh, a considerable manufacturing town (jewelry, &c.), Bodyeville,
Jlebronrille, and Paivtucket, where the line enters the State of Ehode
Island.

Fawtucket (Pawtucket Hotel, Park House) was the scene of a bloody
action in 1G76. Capt. Pierce, with 70 men, was driven back to the rivei=
by the Indians, and his party was fairly showered with arrows. When
help came, not one nuin was living. At present, Pawtucket is the princi-
pal thread manufactory in America, and steam fire-engines, rope, braid,
&c., are made here. The Bunnell Manufacturhig Co. has 3(j buildings,
and prints 22,500,000 yards of calico yearly. The Pawtucket Tack Co.
makes 360,000,000 tacks yearly, and 35,000,000 spools are made here
every year.

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BOSTON TO NEW VOUK.

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Providence.

Providence (Hty Hotel, ^4-4.50 a day, Aldrich Housf: Central

HottJ, G-lO Cuiiul St., European plan), is the sect^nd city, ui wealth

and popul.ilion, of New Eui^iand, and a .scuii-capital of Rhode Island.

It is beautifully situated on hills at the head of Narra^Musett Bay,

a cove of wliich lies far in the city and is surroundetl hy promenades.

The view of the city IVoni the Bay, or from the heights E. of the river, isi

very i»lefi.sing. The Cliina trade was once largtdy enjoyed l)y Providence,

but since its loss the energies of the citizen, li.vt'. turned to manul'actures,

and now large jewelry, iron, stove, and loiomutivc works are kept going.

The Corliess engint-s, the Peabody ritlcs, the Gorham silver-ware, Perry

Davis's Pain-lviller, and millions of cigars are made here. 44 banks take

care of the money.

Provi(U;ncfi was founded and named by Roper Williams, who w is banished f^'oni
M;iM viclmsi'tts in lO:!'!, for his advaiiccil idt-as rebilivi' lo Ciiurch and iStatf. Ho
was horn in Wales, l,')'.i',t, cducattMl ,it Pfnihroisi! Colk'Lit', Caiiibri(l;,'t', and pp ached
for some time at Salem, Mass. .\fter his o.xile he .settled at Seelconii, whnice he
was .soon warned away l)y the Gnvcrnor of I'lymouth. In a eanoo, with five
companions, he droppe<l down the river, until, in itassini^ a eove (near tlie present
India St. Bridge), he was liaileil l»y .some Indians with the words, " What eheer,
Netopy " (friend). He landed in tliis fuvn on tin' eelebraled What Clie^r Iloek,
and then eoisted around to the mouth of Providciiec River, where he lamleil a I
remained. Tliis was in. June, lUW. Soon after he visited theHaehem L'anr)nifus(on
Canonieut Island) and received a grant of tlie land liereal»outs. In 10.'>'.> Williams
became a Baptist, ami in ltt4M - t went to Kiigland, and got a charter I'nr the new
colony. In king Philip's War, every lionse l)etween Stonington and iwidgewater
(save Providenet) was destroyed, and the little eolony was onee liereely atttieked,
and lost .'50 housi In the royal census of 17.'50, Provide!, 'C had :'>,'.»l(i inhabitants.
De Warville visitnl it in 1788, and reported it " deeaytd, and in the silence of
death." In ISOO, it liad 7,014 inhabitants, and in 1670, (>.s,'.>04.

The R. R. station, fronting on E.xchange Placi-, is a large, liandsome
budding, near which is a costly * monument, erectetl by the -tate in
honor of her dead soldiers. The base of this work is of l»lue Westerly
granite, bearhig the arms of the U. S., and of R. I. Surrounding this
are four 7-ft. bronze statues repr'isenting the Infantry, Cavalry, Artillery,
and the Navy ; above winch is a statue of militant America (10 ft. high),
bearing a sword and laurel wreath in one hand, and a wreath of imnuir-
telles in the other. The names of 1,680 R. I. soldiers who died in the War
for the Union are inscribed on the monument, which was designed by
Randolph Rogers, of Rome. Near Exchange Place, and parallel to it, is
Westminster St., the main thoroughfare of the city. From this street to
Weybosset St. runs the Arcade, a fine granite building (built 1828), on
the plan of the European "galleries," containing a great number of bliops
rar' < d along a glass-roofed jiromenade. In the vicinity is the massive
granile building of the Custom House and Post Otlice. The most notable
chuvi'ies are St. Joseph and St. Mary (Roman Catholic), the Union
Congregational, the Roger Williams Baptist, the ancient First Baptist
(.society founded 1G39), Grace Churcli, and St. Stephen's (Ei)iscopal), a

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WEBSTER, NY. 14580

(716) 872-4503

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04 Jioute 8.

BOSTON TO NEW YORK.

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massive edi{ic<; of rugged brown stone, with a deeply recessed cliancel, an
ornate roof, and riclily stained windows. Tliere are 69 cliurches in tlie
city. In tht: S. part, and fronting on the harbor, is the stately building
of tlie *R. I. Hospital, surrounded by pleasant grounds. Some distance
S. of this, the city is i)re]>aring a i)ark on ihe bold shores of the Narra-
gunsett Bay.

On the E. side of Providence River are two long business streets and a
line of h('i;j;hts covered with residences. On N. Main St., near Presi-
dent, is the quaint old chuich of the First Bai)tist Society, and beyond it,
on the corner of S. Court St., is the small brick building used for the
State House. Fine views ;>f the "seven hills of Providence" are gained
fiom Benefit St. above the State House. On the comer of Collega and
Benefit Sis. is the * AtheneDum, a .sturdy little granite building, con-
taining a lilti-ary of 32,000 volumes. Several busts are preserved here, and
some fine paintings, among which are a copy of Stuari's Washington,
by Allston ; portrait of (.'banning, AUston ; Churles II., long thought to
be by Van Dyk, now held to be by Cas2)ar ; portraits of Gen. (ireene, J.
(}. Percival, and Phillips Brocks; -portrait of a young lady, (his niece ?)
reading, by Sir Joshua Iteynolc one of his finest works. But the gem
of this collection is Malbone's masterpiece, * " The Hours," painted in
Avatcr-colors on a sheet of ivory 6 inches Ity 7, and i)resented to the
Athenanim in 1S53, by 130 subscribers. The picture represents Eunomia,
Dice, and Irene, the Past, Present, and Future. The President of the
lloyal Academy said of it to Monroe, " I have seen a picture, painted by
n young man by the name of Malbone, which no man in England could
excel." On the heights near the Athenaium is the line of buildings
(Iv. I. College, Hope, Manning, and University Halls, &c.), pertaining to
Brown University. There is here a fine library of about 40,000 volumes,
a museum of Natural History containing 10,000 specimens; and in the
portrait gallery 3S portraits, some of which are of value.

Rhode Island CoUef^e was foun.led at Warren in 1764, and removed to Provi-
dtMi'.'e ill 1770. Its lmililiii;,'.s served iis a liospital for the Franco-Auierican army
durin^c K'rcat part of the Itcvohition. Nieliolas Brown, and others of that dis-
tinguished R. I. family, iiaviii;^ greatly aided the college, in 1804 Hs name was
elianged to Rrown University. Tw(. thirds of tlie Boards of Fellows and Trustees
are rc(iuired by the charter to be Bu,i)tists.

The iiall of the R. I. Historical Society is near the University, and
contains many relics of the Indians and early settlers, together with 6,000
books, 30,000 pamphlets, and 7,000 MSS. On Hope St., N. W, of the
University, are the extensive buildings, surrounded by fine grounds, of the
Dexter Asylum (for the poor), near which are the ornate buildings of the
Fiiends' Boarding School, The Butler Hospital for the Insane has large
and stately edifices, surrounded by 115 acres of ornamental grounds, on
the heights which look down on the widenings of the Seekouk River

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BOSTON TO NEW YORK.

Rcnite S. G5

(which is tlie boundary of Massacliusetts). N. of the Butler Hospital
is Swan Point Cemetery, a beautiful rural necropolis on undulating
ground near the river. The Reform School and the Home for Aged
Women are in the S. E. part of the city. Near tlie E. end of Power St.,
on the banks of the river, is the What Cheer Rock, on which Roger
Williams first landed. N. of the Cove (»ear the R. R. Station), is the
Rhode Island State Prison.

Environs of Providence.

On the N. (4| M.) is the great manufacturing town of Pawtucket.
Cranston (4 M. to the W. ) is a busy working place, which has the Narra-
gansett Trotting Park, famous in R. I. raues. The mile elliptical track is
entered through a fine towered gateway, and the grand stand contains
5,000 seats. Himt's Mill, 'l M. distant, is a favorite drive. Steamers
leave Provi<lence almost hourly in summer for the popular resorts on
the Bay, and four times daily for Newport. Sassafras Point, Robin Hill,
with its old fort, and Field's Point, are passed soon after leaving the city,
and then Ocean Cottage (hotel) is reached, on the E. sliore. The sturdy
liglithouse, in the Bay beyonrl, i.s on Pondiam Rock, named after a brave
sachem of the Narragansetts who was killed in battle with the English, in
Jnly, 1676, The steamer now stojjs at Vue d(! I'Eau, a large hotel on the
E. shore, commanding a fine view of the Bay. Smitli's Palace is on tiie W.,
after which comes tlie favorite Silver Spring House (on the E.). Pawtuxet
village (5 M. from Providence, on the W. shore) has sandy shores which
afford good bathing. After rounding Sabin's Point on the E., the Cedar
Grove House (30 rooms, 4 bowling .alleys), with its cottage village, is seen
on a high bluff. At Gaspee Point, below Pawtuxet. the British sloop-of-
wi r "Gaspee" grounded while chasing, a small American vessel. On the
following night (June 17, 1772,) a band of Providence men surprised the
" Gaspee," captured and landed her crew, and then burnt the vessel. Bul-
lock's Point (on the E.) and Mark Rock (on the W.), *' the Natchez of
Rhode Island," the sandy Canimicut Point with its lighthouse, and
Nayatt Point, on the opposite shore, are rapidly passed, and then the steamer
passes out into the Bay proper. Bocky Point (Rocky Point Hotel, on
the European plan, accommodating 700 guests) is soon reached. This
Point is midway between Providence and Newport, and is one of the most
joyous and attractive resorts in New England. A lofty tower near the
hotel aftbrds a noble * view, including Providence and Newport, Fall
River, Bristol, and Warren, and many other towns, with the whole sweep
of the Bay. The wild and cavernous rock-formations, the free menagerie,
and the elevated railway, are some of the attractions. 250 persons are
employed here through the summer ; from the hotel telegrams may be
sent all over the Union. But the chief excellency of " the crown of

66 Jioute S.

BOSTON TO NEW YORK.

Narragausett Bay " is the diuiug-rooni (seating 1,500 persons), where fish
and cJams are served up in every sliape. The clani-bakes of Rocky Point
are unrivalled in tlie world. Soon after, the steamer j)asses Warwick
and its lighthouse, and along Prudence Island (G M. long), near which
are tlic islets of Patience, Hope, and Desjjair. S. of Prudence Island is
the widest part of the Bay, and Warwick village is visible on the W.
shore. The course now lies between Rhode and (^anonicut Islands, pass-
ing several smaller islets, and running under the frowning walls' of Fort
Adams into the Harbor of Newport.

The Providence, Warren, and Bristol R. R. leaves its station at Fox
Point, crosses the Seekonk River, and j)ass('.s the i>opular resorts on the E,
shore. Stations, India Point, Boston Switch, \'ue de I'Eau, Drownville,
Nayatt, Barrington and Warren. The latter town (Cole's Hotel, estab-
lished in 17G2) is a busy manufacturing place on the E. sliore of Narra-
gansett Bay. It is a nursery of sailors, and has a well-protected harbor.
The Sachem Massasoit had his favorite dwelling here on his territory of
Sowamset, near a spring which is still called after his name. The Warren
Veteran Artillery has two cannon whicli were made at Strasbourg in 17G0,
taken from the French at Montreal, surrendereil with Burgoyne at Sara-
toga, and used in the Porr Rebellion (1842). A railroad runs from
Warren to Fall River.

Tlie next station, 4 M. S. of Warren, is Bristol (a small hotel). This
town is a pleasant summer-resort, and is built on a higli peninsula sloping
to a deep, safe harbor. Three wide, grassy streets run down the penin-
sula, — Water St., near the harbor ; Main St., with St. Michael's (Epis.)
Church, and two or three old colonial mansions; and High St., with the
common, the poor county buildings, and a fine Cong, church, in rambling
mediaeval architecture. From this broad and quiet street may be seen
Mount Hope, where was "King Philip's seat" (Arnold), or "Philip's
sty at Mount Hope " (Palfrey).

King Philip, or Metacoiiiet, was the son of srass.isoit, and chief of the Wam-
panoags. After enduring various aggressions from his white neighbors, in 1671,
thp Plyniouth people deniandorl that all the Indians should give up their arms,
and Philij) demurred at this. Tlion, travelling throughout New England, he
formed a powerful anti-English loague, and attacked the colonies in 1675. After a
long war conducted with unexam]iled ferocity by both combatants, his power
was broken by the Narraj;:uis('tt Fort Fight, and the repulse tVom Taunton.
Having decimated the eoloiiisis and destroyed many of their fairest towns,
he was hunted down and shot near the foot of Mount Hope, in midsummer,
1676. During the war 600 colonists were killed, and 12 towns were destroyed.

In 16S0 the i>eninsula was bought from the Goveniment by a company of Bos-
ton capitalists, who divided it into lots, and sold the land to actual settlers. In
Oct., 177"), three British frigates bombarded Bristol, and in 1778 a raiding party
of British soldiers plundered this town and Warren.

Fine yaclits are made at Bristol, also cotton goods and refined sugars, while
an immense rubber manufactoiy does a business of § 2,000,000 a year.

The Providence and Worcester R. R. runs from Providence to Worcester (Route
10) ; and the Hartford, Providence, and Fishkill R. R. I'uns W. to Hart onl and

BOSTON TO NEW YORK.

It^nik 8.

'Waterbiu7 (Route 11). A daily line of BteaiTier.s runs between Providenco and
Nt'W York, cunyiny i>a.ssengers and freiylit.

Alter leaving Providence, the Shore Line route to New York (Route 8,
coulimicd) run.s S., passing the stations Ehnville, II ill's Grove, Apponaug,
and Greenwich (Updikt House, Greenwich Hotel). Greenwich i.s a neat
village on Cowesit Bay, and is the seat of a large Methodist Seminary.
In 1G41, a trading-post and inn were erected here on the great Southern
road, or " Pequot Path." Its site is now occui)ied by the Updike Houa^',
into which many of its timhers are built. At this post the Mass. and
Plymouth forces met before the Narragansett Fort Fight (1675), and
liither they retreated with their wounded.

Old War-wick is a U\\\ miles distant, across Cowesit I3ay. Sanuiel Oorton
a layinau wlio intrudod into tiie arena of theological polemics, was banished
from Plymouth in 1G37, liom N'e\vi>ort in lUll, from ProviJ.enee in lOl'J, from
Cranston later in the same year, and then settled on Shawomet. la 1(14.'}, 40
.soldiers from Boston came here, and took Gorton and 10 colonists to IJoston,
where they were tried and s'liteneed as "danniable heretics," and banished
from America. The Earl of Warwick sent him back to Hhawomet (which ho
named Warwick), and under tliat nobliiuian's i)rotection he spent the remaiudei*
of his life in launching anathematic trt^atises at Massachusetts and R. I., among
which were "Simplicitie's Defence against .Seven-Headed Policy," "Antidote
against Pharasaic Teachers," &c. In 1052, the clerk of this unfortunate settle-
ment was disfranchised on seven charges : first, for calling the oUicers of the
town rogues and thieves; second, for calling all the town rogues and thieves;
third, for threatening to kill all the mares in town. In 1070, the jdace was at-
tacked and burnt.

Nathaniel Creene was born at Warwick, in 1742. He It I the R. I. brigade to
Cambridge in 177ii, connnanded the left wing, and toi>k the guns ai, Ti-cntou,
saved the army at the Battle of tiie Brandywine, and led a brigade at (Jennan-
town, Monmouth, and Xewiiort. In 17^0, he connnanded tlio sliattercd Army of
the South in its celebrated retreat across South ai^d Nnrth Carolina into Virginia,
and fought the drawn battle at Guilford C. II. In April, 1781, he was badly de-
feated by Lord Rawdon, at llobkirk's Ilill, and was repulsed from Fort i)(i', but
in September he won the sanguinary and decisive battle of P^utaw Springs, which
ruined the British hoi)es in the South. Congress jjresented him with a medal, a
British standard, and two captured cannon, and the Stiite of Georgia gave hiuj a
line i)lantation near Savannah, where he resided until his death.

George S. Greene, born at Warwick in ISOl, commanded a division at Antietam,
Chancellorsville, and Gettysburg ; and in N. and S. Carolina during the rest of
the war.

Silas Casey, born at E. Greenwich in 1807, commanded a division of the Army
of the Potomac, and was greatly distinguished in the sanguinary battle of Fair
Oaks, May 31, 1802.

The celebrated summer resort .at Rocky Point is not far from Old Warwick.

Station "Wickford. The village (Washinffion Hotel), a quaint and quiet
old place, is on a broad bay, and is reached by a branch railroad in 2.^ Zkl.
(connecting with a steamer to Newport daily). In the edge of the village
is a curious square Episcopal church, which was built in 1700, and has
been long deserte'l.

Station Kingston. The village (Kingston House) is on the heights, 2
M. E. of the station, and contains the county buildings of Wasliington
Co. 9 M. from the station (carriages in waiting) is the fa.shionable sea-
side resort at Narragansett Pier.

08 Route 8.

BOSTON TO NEW YORK.

is
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lintels. *T(»\vor Hill IIouho, a noble building on Nurra^'ansttt Il(;i>;hts, wliidi
ovcrlonk i\w. wliolc Hay, is ;i M. from the sIkuc (lior.su-t'ur») , Ucliivan iloiisif ;
Contineiitil House ; Miixsoii, Ha/aid, Onai , .Mctatoxct, Hca-View, Kliiiwoml,
Narraj,'ans('tt, Mattliewson, Allaiitii', Atwuod, Rtvere, Mount Hope, and .itiicrs.
Most oi' tlii'Si! Iiotels accoiuniodate UO- SO guests, mid ehargf- § 1*2- Jjl 18.00 ii week.
Th»! Towur Hill, Atwood, and two or three others, are larger and more ox-
pensive.

Music, Lectures, &c., In Cnnnnehet Hall. A liandaome Episoopal church,
of sloiie, has receutiy been built. Narragaiisett I'ier 1*. O. receives two maild
daily. SteatnerH leave daily for New]>ort and I'rovidence.

In 1856, a fainily from Pliihidolpliia came licre, and boarded at a farm-
liouso near tlic beach. The next year tliey returned witli some friends,
and tlie farm was calh'd tlie Narra<i;an,sett lioardhig- House. Summer
visitors increased, until in 18(57, tlie Atlantic (80 guests), the Atwood (175
guests), and the Revere (50 guests) J louses were built. Other hotels
were rapidly buMt, and in 1871, the Continental, Maxson, Mt. Hope,
and Tower Hill Houses were fini.shed.

Tlic Beach affords fine riding and bathing (light sn.rf), and many fi.sh
are caught from the rocks, Narragansett is sai<l to be more (juiet and un-
assuming than Newport, and its usual routine is bathing in the morning
(wlien 3-400 persons may be seen in the surf), and cro([uet in the after-
noon. Below the Pier is a mass of rock.s, beyond which stretches the
long line of Wolcott's Beach, Tlie noble aiid richly decorated mansion of
the Sprague family is near the cluster of hotels. Every visitor shouhl go
to Narragansett Heights (3 M,), where the palatial Tower Ilill Hotel
stands on its 800-ac,re i)lateau, near Silver Lake, 400 ft. above the Ray.
The* view is fine, extending over Newi)ort and 10-12 villages, and cov-
ering a horizon-line of 100 M. The Ocean, the Bay, Point Judith, and
the lakes of S. Kingstown, are all visible. 4-6 M. W. of the Pier is
Peacedale, with a fine stone church, and a large manufactory of woollen
shawls.

The road running S. W. from Peacedale, through Wakefield, passes the remains
of tlie old Potter Palace, and the birth i)laco of Commodore Perry.

John Potter was a magnate of the middle of the ISth century, who built here
in Narragansett a line mansion, richly frescoed throughout, surrounded by gai-
ilens, and kept by 100 slaves, where he used to receive company in baronial
style.

At and before this time large Quaker settlements were scattered through the
district, and three of their deserttnl (duirclies still remain in this town.

Oliver Hazanl Perry was born in 1785, of an old aristocratic family of Narra-
gansett. He served as a midshipman in the Trii)olitan War, and was put in com-
mand of the squadron on Lake Erie, at whose head, iSejit. 10, 1813, he won a bril-
liant victory, and cajitured the entire British fleet. He died of yellow fever, at
Trinidad, in 1810. His l)n)ther. Commodore M. C. Perry, born at Newport, 17!.4,
was an active naval ollicer, chiefly distinguished for leading the Japan expedition
in 1852-4, when he concluded an important treaty w ith that empire.

(Jommodorc Perry's cousin, .Stephen C'hamplin, Commodore in the U. S. Navy,
was born here in 1789. He tired the first mid last shots at the battle of Lake
Erie, where he commanded the "ycorpion," in Perry's squadron. His services in
the War of 1812 were imi>ortant.

G. C. Stuart, the celebrated portrait-painter, was bom in this town in 1754.
Most of the time from 1772 to 1793 he s])ent in London and Paris, an<l kept his
studio at Boston, 180C-28. His portraits of Washington and other founder.s of

, liere

« arra-

coni-

In-il-

M-, at

itioii

es m

17:4.
; his
rs of

BOSTON TO NEW YORK.

Pinntr S.

the Rr'i»n1)Ii(! aro the best in existence, and show skill of the higlicst onlor in por-
trnit-jiaintinj?.

li M. fioiii tiio Perry fann Is the Potter Place, K. of wlilch is the Inn^', islaiiil-
8tiiilile<i la^^'odii known as Point .luilitii Poii>(, aiioiuulin;^ in llsli. Fulitt JudltU
is tlie site of an inii)ortant li^lithouse.

Tiie Icj^eml inns, that far liack in the eolonial days, a storm-tossed vessel was
driven in t<nvards the Narrnicaiisett shore. The captain, an ancient mariner, wa«j
at the wheel, watclifid aniiil tlie jierils of an nnkn-iwri coast, when his l/ri^ht-
eyed dan^'liter, .Jnditii, <'allcd out to him, " Land, father! I see the land ! " His
dim eyes could not discern tlu! distant shore, and he shouted, "Where away?
Point, Jndith, point!" She did jtoint, and lie elian^'ed his course, and left the
surf-whitened cap(! far away under Ice; antl when lie ri;ailicd jiort, tlie story nf
the fearless i^\v\ iiointiii.L; out tlie dan;,'cr from the storm-swcpt deck was told often
and afiain amonj^ the sailors, so that the old sea-captains, wiu'n they jiasscd this
cape thereafter, rejx'ated the story, and ^ave her name to th(! place.

I)urin},' nnnh of the year ITTf*. tlic Count Dilstainp^'s fleet of Kl vessels, with
0X\ cannon, was stretched across the Hay from Point .Fmlith, and maintained an
eflleient Mockade of the British forrcs at Newport. Admiral Lord Howe attacked
D'Est'iin;^ with alar^e sipiadron, and after an indecisive battle anil a severe storm,
both fleets were foreeil to leave the Hay and relit.

Tliis town of 8. Kingstown is tlic largest in the State, covering over 7*5
square M. N. W. of Kingston, near the Exeter line, on a higli, rocl<y
hill, are the ruins of the Indian "Queen's Fort." Part of the stone-wall
remains, also a rock-chamber called the Queen's Bedroom, v.i"Te many
arrows have been found.

On a hill in the great pine and cedar swamp near Worden's Pond (S.
W. of Kingston) are the scanty remains of the Narragansett Fort
(guide necessary, who can sometimes be obtained at the farm-houses oa
the edge of the swamp).

At the time of the landing of the Pilgrims, the Narragansett Indians, nnwastctd
by i)estilenee, ruled the K. Tliere were ;i(),00fl .souls in this nation (Hriidey), or
according to Roger Williams,"!? towns within 20 M., with o, 000 warriors."
Gookin (1674) calls them an "active, laborious, and ingenious people," and they
were extensively engaged in tra<le and manufacture, supplying nearly all the New
Englant' tribes with Jiipes, pots, and wami)um .jewelry and coin. Their territory
stretched from Wickford nearly to Westerly, witli its largest villages in the vicin-
ity (favorable for fishing or agricnlture) of the great i>ouds in S. Kingstown. In
their simple theology they looked forward to some mystii' realms in tlie far 8. W.,
where the gods and pure s])irits dwelt, while the souls of innrderers, thieves, ami
liai's are doomed to wander abroad. Tiiey fought freiiuently with the Mohegans
and Peipiots, but lived more peaceably with the Massachusetts, which was the
name they (living in a flat country) applied to the dwellers at Neponset, Milt"n,
and Canton. It is from Massa (many) and Waschoe (mountains), and means the
people of the many mountains (the high blue hills of Milton). Canonicus and
Miautonomoh ruleil from about lOOO to 1(543 ; the former being "a wise anil i>ea( c-
able prince" (Roger Williams), and the latter a "brave and magnanimous chief,"
who gave lands freely to the R. I. colonists. Rut the unvarying friendship b;'-
tween the settlers and this great tribe was ended in 107'>, when the fiery eloquence
and crafty subtlety of King Philip of the Wampanoags induced them to enter
the anti-English confederation of the New Englaml tribes. The United Colonies
took prompt action, and assembled 1,000 men under (Jen. W^inslow, on the verge
of the tribal territory. Many of the Indians were r>ampaigning witli King Philip ;
many fled to the N. W. ; and the rest abandoned their villages and took refuge in
the ancient fortress of the tribe in the swamp near Worden's Pond. After a long
march through the snow in Dec, 1(J7.^, the colonial troops came in sight of the
hill, covered with a system of embankments, palisades, and abatis, and defended
by the flower of the Narragan setts. The Massachusetts men, in the van, dashed
into the Fort through an enfiladed entrance, and after a furious struggle, being

70 JioiUc s.

BOSTON TO NEW YORK.

i-:

unHUpported, tlioy worr clHvcn out, with luvivy Io.^b. Hio wliolc fnrrc imw Imving
nnivfu, a iloublc uttack wan iiiailc ; tlic troojis of Coiiiiccticut HtoriiHfl the nnU\
ami, wliifo tin; atteiiti(tii of tin; wliolf^ Iiniiaii Ki*i''i«'»'» wih ct'iitrffl nii tliiii point,
tlic riyinuulh (Miiii|iaiiic>s Itroke UhoukIi tiir uhatis and iialimuleH on tlu; other
siile, and attacked ttieni in the rear, A J)ittcr coinliat ensued, tlic IndianH retir-
ing to their wi^waniH and reiiulsiiig every attac-k of the colonials, who now held
tlie walls. Fire \v,ih now ajiplied to thfl wiKwaniH, and Hpread ra|iidly, aniid a
Hcenfi of nnntterahle contUNiou and carna^'e. A hand of chosen warriors dashed
forth and cleared a way and covered t\\c retreat of fidl iJ.oOO peojih-, alter whii'li
iho. colonials were left in full possession, liavin;^ lost so men killed and l.^')
wt)unded. ;i()0 Wiirriors were killed, and (H»() prisoners taken, of whom most of
the lightiuK men were either shot on JiOrtton Conmion, ilied on Deer Islaml, or
wereH(dd into slavery. The tribe was annihilated. Nearly all the colonial captains
were shot, and a considerahle i)ropoition of the wounded, borne through a road-
less ';uuutry in midwinter, scoics of miles tu tliu settlements, diud un tho way
homo.

"The bitter cold, the tarled swami>, the tediojis march, tho stronR fort, tho
iinm<;ruus and stubborn enemy they contended with lor their God, KiiiK, and
country, be their trophies over death. "— Comi. Legislaturu on " tho.sc dead in
tho Fort Fight in Narrugansctt.

In 10-12 lain, aftci' leaving Kingston Station, the train passes tlirough
the swamp wliero the battle took place. The next station is Carolina,
with large woollen niilhi, 3-4 M. S. of which is a reservation, with church
and school-house, where lives the sc.:hty renuiant of the Nan-agansett
tribe. Stations, liichvuind Smitch, Charkstown, Westerly (Dixon
House, $3.00 a day). In ]<'G5, a division of the Newport church
moved to Westerly, and, in 1671, embraced the tenets of the Seventh
Day Baptists^ so if the traveller chances to be here on Saturday, he will
find but little business going on, and the church bells ringing. Westerly
is noted for its extensive manufactures, and, among other tilings, turns
out every year 442 miles of llannel and 1031 miles of cotton and woollen
cloths. Many summer visitors stop at the elegant Dixon House, and
avail themselves of the steamer which runs semi-daily down the Pawcatuck
River to *

Watch Hill Point.

ITotelS' — * Ocean Ilcuse, on a far-viewing liill ; Watch Hill House, 30-40
years olil, the lirst hotel here ; Larkin Hou.se, near the lighthouse ; Atlantic
House, Dickens, Bay View, and Plimpton Houses. There is but little ditfercnee
in these liotels, and the ]>rices arc somewliat less than tluse at Narragansett Pier.

Steamers in sunnner run from Westerly to Watch Hill twii'e daily ; from
P.tonington 4-5 times daily ; from New Loudon, daily ; and from Norwich, touch-
ing at New London and Mystic, daily.

Watch Hill Point, the S. W. extremity of R. I., is a high, bold promon-
tory, from which the sandy Narragansett Beach runs E., while to the W.
Napatree Beach, a narrow strip of sand, runs out to Sandy Point. From
the top of the hill a good sea view is obtained, with Block Island to the
S. E., Fisher's Island to the S. W., and the town of Stoningtou close at
hand in the W. From its fine views, excellent bathing beaches, and quiet
and unpretentious hotels, this has become a favorite summer resort.

In August, 1872, the passenger steamer ** Metis," bound from New

BOSTON TO NEW YORK.

KoutcS. 71

oiiion-
le W.
From
o tlie
)se at
quiet

New

York to Piovi'lciice, was run into by ai)other vcHsel of!" this point. She
sank in <lccp water, in the storm nnd ni).;ht, and lii ormoroof Ihm- passen-
gers were lost. Most of the corpHoa, together with the deck of the vessel,
were thrown upon Watfli Ilill Roarh.

MU'V Westerly comes Stonlngton (tlio * Wadawaniick House is a large
summer hotel, eommaiidin^' a lino water- view. It aecommodatcs 140
guests, and charges $4.50 a day; large retluetion for board by the
HC'Won. There are one or two smaller houses here),

Tliis district (Pawcatiir-k) was claiiiH-il by Mans, ns liors in risht of "Joint con-
f|>i!'st," .iftcr tlic (ji'ftMt of the I'cciiiods, l)iit was sctticil in liijii from ('<)iuip<'tlcnt.
Ill iSDl it Ix'c.iii;'' a boroiii^li nlmiit wliicli time I'l-csidctit Mwi;^'lit wrote that " Htoii-
iii;;tnii juid all it,-, vicinity siitlcri in rc!i;,ioii froiii tlic no.iriit'ss of K. I." Aiij;. 0,
isi 1, tln' l)on)ii;,di was attackc(| l)y the Idntiilirs, 71 : the I'm'tolns, '.\H ; ami
."cveral other Hiitish vessels, which lioiiiharded if for three days, throwm;<(lO tons
of iron into it. Knur attempts to land were repnlse.l with „ia|iesh<)t, with heavy
loss, and the Dispntrh, '22, was seriously injured ami driven off by a 3-Kun battel^
on the point. The town was deserted by its people, and 00 soldiers were scattered
tliroii^di it to put out the llres.

Stonington is built on a narrow, rocky point, with quiet streets, cnibel-
lislied liero and there by iron relies of 1814.

StcrtiiierH from Stonin;:ton to Watch Hill (5 times daily in summer (2.'!)c.).

The StuiiiiiKtoii lAno of steamers (to New Yori<) has fine boats which leave
tliis port nil the arriv.il of the steanilioat train from Hoston ('.>-l'» P. M.), and
arrive at New Yorl< early in the nioriiinj^. Thi.s is one of the lour great routes to
New York, tlu; others beiii;^ the [-'all lliver Steamboat Line, the Shore Line K. U.,
Hiid the U.K. route via S;)riii;j;fleld and Hartford. Anew line, via WlUlniantie
and New Haven, is nearly ready for travel.

A line of i)aekets has heretofore run from Stonington to Block Island, and a
dailv steamer is iiromised for tlie s'l'iniier of 1S7.'?.

Itlock iHland (.Mitiliell IIor;\ ■ S)»rin^' House) v/as named for Adrian Block,
Ihe Dutch diseoven-r, and was called l>y the Indians Maiiisecs (the isle of the
little god). The natives made most of the wanqjum (money) for the interior
tribes. In Ki-'Ui, they captured a Hoston vesscd near tlie island, and killed the
crew, shortly after which a t.'onii. coaster ran down on her, rakiii;,' the <lo(;ks with
musketry. 11 Indians jumped overboard and were drowned, but the rest took
refu^,'e in the hold. The coaster then i^wed her many leafrucs to sea, and, havinj^
removed her .sails, hit her go, in il'.niful storm. To avenge the murder of thu
Boston sailors, Gov. Endicott (who hud out out the cross from the Hritish Hag
with his rapier as "savoring of Popery") campaigned on Block Island under the
jTossless flag and destroyed 'J large villages. The island sent CO ft. of wampuni
to Boston for tribute, in KioS, mid in 1(M>1 an English settlenuiUt was maile here,
which wat; ini-orporated in 1072 as New Shoreham, and nearly destroyed by a
raid from French vessels in 1090.

Block Island is 8 I\r. long by from 2 - 4 M. wide, and is nearly cut in
two by a great salt-water pond, S. of which is the thin village of New
Shoreham, witli 2 Baptist churches. There are many abrupt and un-
covered hills, used for grazing. The men are mostly employed in fishing,
and are of a simple, sturdy, and primitive race. The island belongs
to R. I., and has about 1300 inhabitants, whose number is slowly decreas-
ing.

After Stonington comes the busy, ship-building village of Mystic (Hoxie
House).

72 Route 8.

BOSTON TO NEW YORK.

■ i.

Near Mystic, on tlic N., is Peqtiot Ilill, wliidi was attacked May 2Gtli, 1637 hy
Mason, who had aiarchci from Nan-agansett willi 90 Englisliii.eii, and 400 Mohe-
gans and Narragans«tts, under the yac)ienis Uncus and Miantononioh. On
arriving before tlie Fort, tlic Indi'in allies were afraid to attiick, ancl drew oil',
whereupon tlic colonial soldiers i>;eitared to do the work alone, and knelt down
in prayer, ('he Sachem V/equash, the guide of the forces, was aninzed at liiis
si^ht, and when he understood it, he l)fcanie iini)rcpsed and conveited, an(l
preached throu^dio'it New Kngland until iic scaled his faith by a j^h rioiis mar-
tyrdom.) The English now inovcil steadily to the assault, and, favored by the
darkness, succeeded in getting inside the palisades, but they were soon over-
wh(;lnied by vastly sinieri'-!' numbers, and fell back, after setting lire to th(! wig-
wams. " The greatness and violence of the lire, the flashing and roari'.ig of the
arniH, the shrieks and yells ol men, women, and children within the Fort, and the
shoutings of Indians without, just at the dawning of tlu; morning, exliii>itcd a
grand and awful s< cue. The Narragansetts, Mohegans, and colo.iials surrounded
the hill and hhot down t!ie fugitives. (JdO re(niots were shot or burnt on this
<lreadful morning, which v,as a death-Mow to the tribe. " It was a fearful sight
to sec them frying in tlie lire, and the streams of blood (luenching the same, and
liorriblc was the stink and scent thcieof; but the victory seenuid a sweet sacri-
iice, and they gave the praise thereof to Uod." Cotton Mather.

4 M. from Pecjuot Hill (half-way to New London) is Fort Hill, where
Sassacus, sachem of the I'eqnots, had his royal fortress. On hearing of
the attack of Mason, the chief sent 300 of his best warriors, who «^;aused
the Indo-colonial forces great loss in their retreat. But meanwhile those
who had remained in the fort revolted, and Sassacus, with his court and
chiefs, was forced to flee to the Hudson River, whence they never
returned, and the tribal organization was blotted out by the colonies, who
gave for slaves to t'lc friendly tribes those remaining of the dreaded
Pequots or " De.stroy ers, " * There is a noble view from Fort Hill (4 M.
E. of New London) which endiraces jiarts of 15 towns, 4 counties, 3
States, 20 islands, 7 lighthouses, with New liondon, Stonington, Fort
Griswold, and Fisher's Island Sound.

Groton is a very hilly township, and has but liitle good soil (in the
river valley). In 1832, 40 Pequots were living here on a reservation, and
still heartily hating the Narragansetts. Silas Deane,^n early American
diplomatist, who died in poverty and sorrow in a strange land, after hav-
ing made successfid negotiations with France, &c., was a native of Gro-
ton. Between 1812 and 1819, 500,000 yards of cotton cloth were woven
ut home by women witli hand-looms.

Mystic Island, a (juiet sumnter resort, is off the mouth of the river.

After passing the station of Gruto.t, the cars are ferried across the
Thames River to New Loudon (Metropolitan House, §2.50. A new and
elegant hotel is to be opened here in the summer of 1873).

New London is a city of 9,570 inhabitants, on a granite strewn declivity
facing S. E., on a vi le harbor, 3 M. long and 30 ft. deep.

This was fonnerly known as Pe(]u<)t Harbor, ami was raided successively by
Mason, Fndicott, and Undeihiil, and was settled by John Winthro}), Jr., in 1645.
In 1658 the Connecticut Assembly resolved, "Whereas, this court considering

' One authority says that Pequots meant. " Gray Foxes."

BOSTON TO NEW YORK.

Ilmdc S.

Fort

tlmt there hath yet no ]ilaoe in nny of the colonics l)cen named in honor of tlic
city of London, there being a new i>hice, within tliis jurisdi(;tion of Connecticut
settled ujion that fair river Moiic^^un in the Peijnot country, bein;; an excellent
harlx)r, and a tit and convenitnt i)lacefor future trade, it being also the only place
in tliese parts which the English jiossessed by conquest, and tiiat upon a very
,Vist war, npon that gr;j.t and w.irlilte people, the IVpiots, we, theroforc, that we
might thereby leave to j>i.sterity that wo memory of that renowned city of Lon-
don, from whence we had our transportation, have thought lit. in hoi;or to that
famous city, to call ine said jilantition. New London." In 1()'.)8, the i)iratc Capt.
Kidd cruised along these shores, and imried on (lardiner's Island lb ounces of
gold, (J.'W ounces of silver, and a large lot of precious stones, which were recov-
ered by the Earl oT licUomont, governor at Hoston, in 1(V.>'.». Duriiig the Uevolu-
tion, the navy of Conn., consisting of 2(5 vessels, made New Lon<lon its chief
port ; and here, in 1770, wi re landed the governor, oflicei-s, and i)lunder from New
Providence (of the Ualiamas), which had been captured by an Anu'rican fleet.
Sept. 5, 1781, 'le renegade raider Benedict Arnold a]ii)e.'irc(i off tlie town with a
fleet and a large force of British troops, and having ukvn Fort Trundjull he
l>lundered and l)umt New Tjondon. At the sanu; time a strong detachment made
an attiick on Fort Griswold (across the river), wiiich w,is defended by Ool. Led-
yard with 150 militia-n\en. The siiarp fire of tlie Americans repulsed the first at-
tiick, but a bayiiiet-charge ensued, which carried the enemy into the fort. The
British commander was killed on the rampart, and the Tory Cijit. IJloomfleld
(from New Jersey) took his place. As he shouted, " Who commands this Fort?"
Ool. Ledyard gave him his sword, saying, "1 did command, sir ; Ijut you do
now." The intamous renegade ran Ledyanl through witli his own sword, where-
upon a general massacre ensued, and 70 Americans were killeil and 30 wounded
after the surrender. In storming tlie Fort the British lost 11)1 men.

An excursion .should Le made to Croton hoig ts, where are the remains
of old Fort Griswold, near which is a l)usine.ss-like 20-gun battery, in ad-
nurable order, which protects the channel. Witiiin .stone's-thrc)W of the
fading rampai ... oi the old Fort is a Monument to the massacred militia,
— a noble granite .shaft. 127 ft. high, and 2G ft. square at the base, on
V'hich is inscribed, " Zebulon and Naphthali were s. iieojile that jeoparded
their lives till death in the high places of the Lord." A marble tablet at
the base contains the names of the slain, which will be seen to run in
families ; out of 84 names, 9 are Aver\s, 6 Perkinses, 4 Allyns, 4 Lester*,
&c. The a.scent of the inside of the monument .sliould be made (key, 10
c. at small hou.se close to the monument). From the top a *view Is
gained which is "charming for the student of nature and yet more charm-
ing for the student of the romance of American history." — LossiNO. To
the W. is New London, with its spires and terraccu streets, its shipping,
Fort Trumbull's massive walls, and up the river the wideiiings of the
Thames where the U. ^. is preparing a Navy Yard. On the E. are the
stony hills of Groton, with Fort Hill 4 M. away ; and on the S. the mouth
of the Thames with its lighthouses, hotels, and .summer-cottages. Th<'
long, in-egular line of Fisher's Island (t) M. long), belonging to New York
and occupied by three farms, is in the S. E. over which the ocean is seen,
and, if the day is clear. Block Island may lie made out with a strong
glass. Many leagues to the S. E. over the W. end of Fi.sher's Island;
may be seen the white cliffs of Montauk Point.

A steam-ferry (4 c.) leaves the foot of State St. every 15 min. for Gro-

74: Itvutc S.

BOSTON TO NEW YORK.

■* ;;.'

1? '■ i

ton. ^ M. E. of tlie old Fort, Col. Ledyard is buried under a monument
erected by the State.

New London if> Iniilt on a declivity, which is ascended by State St. from
the II. R. Station to tlie County Court House, passing on the r. the brown-
stone City Hall and Post Ollice, and a fine Cong. Church of granite with
a spire of the same material. Near tlie Court House is St. James' Epis-
copal Church, a large brown-stono c'difice in whose chancel is buried
Samuel Seabury, the first Anglican bishop in the Republic. The English
bishops (in 1784) would not consecrate him, })ut the ollice was performed
by 3 bishops' of the Scottish Episcopal Church, after which he preached
at New Loiidon for 12 years. On Federal St. in a lofty situation is a
massive and extensive Cong. Church, near which is an ancient cemetery
^vhich overlooks the harbor. The lofty towered new stliool-house on the
hill, and the sp, ?iou' (but unli'n.shcd) Catholic Church on Huntington
St. are fine buildings. 1 M. N. is Cedar Grove Cemetery, Bank St. is
the main business avenue of the city. Fort Trumbull is a massive and
powerful granite fortress with a heavy armament, but built too near the
city to keep it unscathed.

" New London is a stagnant old town, where nothing moves except the fish
and tlie boats in the harbor. Tlie natives, who loiter around oovfier groceries and
fisli-stalls, live ho suinuolently that, when nnything happens, they pinch them-
selves to (letermine if they are awake. Catching fish and eating them compre-
hend the whole of existence, ; and sitting in the shadf .md smoking, the highest
'uxuries they long for." Such is Junius lirowue's slightly exaggerated descrip-
tion.

Cod and whale fishing is extensively carried on from this port, and in
the summer of 1872, 6 vessels sailed thence to hunt seals about the S.
Shetland Isles.

The Harbor road leads by Fort Trumbull, and through a line of cot-
tages, in 3 - 4 M. to the mouth of the Thames, near which is the * Pequot
House, a costly and exclusive aristocratic resort, wliich accommodates
al-viut 500 guests, at $5 a day each. A village cf pretty cottages has
grown up in this vicinity. On the opposite side of the Thames is the
Ocean House (quieter and much less expensive) and Thon\pson's Hotel.

Steamers rnn twice daily (in summer) to Watch Hill Point. A line runs also to
Siig Harbor, Long Island. Two steamers leave daily for New York (distance 126
JI.) by the Norwielt Line.

The New London Northern Division of the Vermont Central R. R. runs N. W.
from this city to Pahner, Amherst, and the State of Vermont.

After leaving New London the Shore Line R. R. passes Waterford
(Niantic Hotel,) and E. Lyme, Avhere at the village of Niantic (Howard
House), on the bay o the same name, are found fishing and boating ad-
vantages. This ten ory, from the Thames to the Connecticut, was
formerly held by the Niantic Indians, a clan of the Narragansetts, who
under their sachem, Ninigret (brother of Canonicus, and uncle of Mian-

1*1

Ik ' .

BOSTON TO NP:W YORK.

Route S.

and in
the S.

'terford
[oward
ing ad-
it, was
;s, who
Mian-

tonomoh) conquered the Long Island Indians. Tlie colonies declared
war against Ninigret twice, on absurd pretexts, hut )ie escaped without
fighting, though his territories were ravaged, and in King Philip's War
he kept his people from attacking the English. His great-grandson was
sachem of the clan in 1746, and, selling the reservation in Lyme, moved
his people to the Oneida country in New York. Lyme was settled in
1664, and long disputed about its boundaries with New London, until
two champions were chosen by each plantation, wlio met on the debata-
ttle ground, and in a pugilistic contest, in which the Lyme men were
victorious, their town secured the boundary which it claimed. Sliortly
after passing the venerable hamlet of Old Lyme (on the r.) the railroad
crosses the Connecticut River on a long bridge, and stops at Saybrook,
whence trains on the Conn. Valley R. R. run S. to Saybrook Point and
the shore.

On Saybrook Point a fort was built by Plynioutli in 1G35, and wcli armed,
several of the cannon reinainiri;,' here in ISOO. In 1G;!(J Col. T'cnwick came here to
rule llie plantation, which v.as ii.inied in honor of Lord Kay and Selc, and Lord
Brook. In 1037 the Peqnots nmhushed and destroyed a delachment near tho
fort, and atttinpted to carry tlie ^vorki^ by as.sault, but were received with such
di.schar;j;cs of grapcshot that they f^ave it \\\>, and, capturing .several vessels
above the Point, pat their crews to death with horrible tortures. Lady Fenwiek
• lied in 1648, and her husband sold the territory to Conn., retunujd to England,
and was one of the re,'jicide.iud;;cs. Tho iort effectually iirevente''. Dutch vessels
from ascending to reinforce Ilartforc'., and in 1G7j forced Andros's fleet to lie out-
siue of the river, ypringfielil vessels refused to pay the toll demanded at tho
Fort, and appealed to Mass., which put a toll on all Conn, vessels cnterng Boston
Harbor, and socm enforced a coloniiil rei-iprocity. In 170L Yale College was
chartered and locoted at Saybrook, and remained tliere 1707- li , where it held its
fuot 15 coinnien(!emeats. It then occuitied a one-story building 80 ft. long on the
]icninsula near the Fort. The celebrated Saybrook Platform was drawn up hero
in 1708, because "the churches nuist have a public profession of faith agreeable
to which the instruction of t!.e college shall be conducted." On Good Friday,
1811, 400 ]]ritish sailors, in the boats of the " La Ilogue," 74, took the Fort and
ascended the river iiO M. destroying ■J7 vessels. The commander of this raid was
Hir AVilliam E. Parry, afterwards lamous for his Arctic, voyages. "The .steep,
solitary hill near the river, ' on which still stood the remains of the Fort, was cut
away by the railroad in 1S71-2, to make embankments with. It is fortu:iatc that
the Acropolis .and the temples of Baalbcc are not in America.

In the cemetery at Saybrook Point is the transplanted monument of
Lady Fenwiek, and H - 2 LI. beyond is the quiet, elm-shaded, and wealthy
village of Old Saybrook.

The railroad now runs across a wide cove, and stops close to * Fenwiek
Hall, an elegant new hotel, accommodating 300 guests.

A stony strand leads to Lynde's Point on the E. at the mouth of the
river, with its lighthouse. On the W., near Cornfield Point, is a small
Ijathing-beach. Several fine -ottages are near Fenwiek Hall, from which
the Long Lsland shore is seen. In seasons of long adverse winds, a fleet
of 150-200 sail sometimes collects in the mouth of the river.

Steamers running between Hartford and the river villages and New York, New
London, and Sag Harbor touch at Saybrook Point.
The Connecticut Valley R. R. runs from Saybrook Point to Hartford (Route 14).

70 Route 8.

BOSTON TO NEW YORK.

■i

After Saybrook, the Shore Line R. R. passes Westbrook (Westbrook
Hotel) and Clinton (Clinton House, Bacon House), near which, on tlie
N., is the pretty and sechided village of Killingworth {RedfieliTs 11 aid)
where Asahel Nettleton, the evangelist, was born in 1783. The Indian
name of this place was Hammonasset, but the settlers changed it to Kenil-
worth, which was registered, by accident, Killingworth. Tlie pastor of
this parish was chosen first President of Yale College, but as he refused
to go to Saybrook, the students were obliged to come to him, and so the
college was practically here, 1701 -7, though holding its commencements
at Saybrook. Longfellow's poem, "The Birds of Killingworth," will l)e
remembered here. Stations, lifaditmi (Hammonasset House), 7']. River,
and Guilford. Guilford (Guilford House) was settled by 4 immigrants
from Kent and Surrey in 1639, on the Indian tract billed Menuncatuck,
Tliey were led by their pastor, Henry Whitcfield/'a man of marvellous
majesty and sanctity." The regicides were hidden here for some time,
and in 1781 3 frigates landed a force near the village, but the rapidly
gathering militia drove them off. During the extermination of the
Pequots, in 1637, the Mohegan Sachem Uncas pursued a Pequot chief to
this point, and having shot him on the shore, put his head in the fork of
an oak-tree, Avliere it stayed many years, and the point is still called
Sachem's Head.

Fitz Green Il.illook, the versatile poet, was born at Guilford in 17^0, and in his
later years retired here and li\-('d on a handsome pension allowed him by the As-
tors, of New York. lie died in 1S07.

"\V. II. II. Murray, the i)oi)ular i)ulpit orator, and pastor of Park St. Church,
Boston, since 18G8, was born at Guilford in 1840.

The village is a very pretty one, built around an extensive tree-studded
and enclosed green, on which 5 chiirches front.

Near the village on the S. is Guilford Point (Pavilion, Guilford Point
House, &c. ), and across the harbor is the bold and picturesque promontory
of Sachem's Head, where formerly stood a large hotel.

Station, Stony Creek (Stony Creek, Brainerd, Thimble Island, and In-
dian Point Houses, all small and inexpensive), famed for its large and
delicif^us oysters. The romantic group of the Thimble Islands lies off
shore here, and may be reached by boat from the Indian Point Hotel
(25- 50.C. ). Oil Money and Pot Islands ai'e small and primitive hotels, with
cabins and cottages, while around and between these rocky and wooded
islets rowing and sailing is full of pleasant surprises. Money Island was
one of the rover Capt. Kidd's resorts, and it has been dug all over by
treasure-seekers.

Station, Branford, (Branford House , on land sold by the Sachem
of Quinnipiac to the English in 1638, he being glad to get an ally against
the dreaded Mohawks. It was named from Brentford, where Edmund
Ironside fought the Danes. The shore hereabouts is lined with sum-

;^. t

Vestbrook
h, on the
'I's Hotel)
lie Indian
to Kcnil-
pastor of
e refused
111 so tlie
ncements
" will 1,0
E. River,
iniigraiits
mcfituck.
arvellous
ne time,
s rapidly
: of the
chief to
fork of
11 calle<l

id in his
y the As-

Clmrch,

studded

cl Point
iiontory

md In-

'ge and
lies olf
i Hotel
:s, with
>vooded
nd was
•ver by

achem

igainst

Iniund

sum-

8. Trinify •' • C"? ..
M

.('5
('5

mmm

k-i»

ii* m m Will t-M^CtiOmflftt*^

•i ' 'ij--' 'i *»-'■•'

4. OldStaURcusf. C5 10. Scmitifu'Schk^lSi^
X Jti Gatterr . C^l 1 1. / % /iW/ . T .'.

•■MMMaMMk*

Ma^^teM**a

¥<■ *

•i
1

A:
Hon

whoi

II anil

Wort

this

togc

collq

at Ha

rem a

and (

from

Thoy

majoi

and i

gathe

PcqiK

this r

an oa

Sache

Fita
later y
torf!,

W. 1
Bostoi

The
and ei

Nea
House
of Sac

Stat

dian I

dc'licio

shore

(25- 5(

cabins

islets I

one of

treasin

Stati

of Qui

the dn

Ironsid

> ^.i •> u

' ■>(

i'-.i

' ,* > Jnlii.J , ft} ^^

. "if a ' >'% \

-^ *, -» ?

BOSTON TO NEW YORK.

Jioule 8. 77

mcr hotels, — tlie Montana, Sea View, Totoeket, Pino Ordianl, &p. On
Indian Neck are the Indian Neck and Montowese (200 guests) Houses,
hoth about 2 M. from Hranfnrd station. At the head of " the rocky-
shored and ishmd-sprinkh'd bay of Branford " is the hirgo • IJraiifonl
Point House (1(JO-200 guests), distant 8 iM. from New Haven, and near
by is the favorite Doubh' Beach House (100 guests, §3-3.50 a day).

In lGOr», tlie colonies of Hartford and New Haven were united by royal
order and Ihe coninion ronsent. The i>eoj)le of Branford had steadily
opposfd this union, and wlien it was consuinniated, tliey moved in a solid
bo<ly, headed by their pastor, and bearing uU their household goods, to
Newark, N. J., and the site of Branford wa.s silent and deserted for
years.

Stati(m, K. llavev, an ancient resort of r (. Indians (for oysters, &c. ),
and the seat of iron-works in IO'jj, now has large eopper-snu'lting works.
The train now j)asse.s Saltonstall Lake, crosses the Quinuipiac Iliver, runs
through Fairhavcn, and enters

New Haven.

Hotels. * New Haven Ilnuso. comor CdlU'Re and Cliapol Sta., opposite the
College, ^4-4. r)() a day; ''Tontiin Ildtd, conuT C'uirch and Court Sts., a quiet
old liouso fronting the Green, 1^3 a day ; Treniont House; Turk Uou.se; Madisun
House, &c.

Kcstaurants. Lockwofxl's Dining- Rooms near tlie Park ; the Florence House,
I.'niou .St., and tor a lunch, lloudlcy's, Hear the cojlc;,'!' and a famous resort of the
students. The best oysters may lie hail in Fairhavcn.

Carriages. The regular taritf is uO c. for one jiassenger for one eourse in the
city, or for two passen;;ers li.'i c. each.

if orHe-Cars (head-(iuarters at the foot of the Oreen) run to Fairhaveu ami
i;. Haven, to W. Chapel St., to Westville and W. Rock, to Centreville, to E.
Hock, and in summer to \V. Haven and .Savin Rock.

Telegraph Offices. Western Union, ou ("hapel St.. near R. R. Station ;
I'lanklin Co., on State, near Chapel St. Post « flliee on (Jhurch St. near Chapel St.

Keadiiig-Ilooing. In the hotels, and at the Voun;^' Men's Institute, I'hcenix
liiiildin;^', Chapel St. Also at the Youiii,' .Men's Christian Assocdation rooms, over
the City Rank, corner of Chai)el ami Orani^e Sts.

/•.musenients. Po])ular lectures, theatrical entei-fainments, concerts, &e.
are fretpiently held in Music Hall (aceonuuodating 2,.0uO jtersons) ou Crown St.
between Temple and Church Sts.

Ivitllroatls. At this jioint converge the New Haven, New London, aad Ston-
in^ton R. R. (see preceding' p.aues) ; the New Haven, Midilletown, and Williman-
tc (AirLme route, Bost<tn to New York) ; the New Haven, Hartford, and Spriny-
licM R. R. (grand route from Boston to New York, via Spriiiglield) ; the New Haven
and Northampton (Canal) R. R. ; the New Haven and Derby R. R. ; and the
New York and New Haven R. R, which is tlie last division of all three of the
1 ind routes from Boston (see succeeding pages).

Steamboats. Steamers leave for New York twice daily (moming and even-
ing) m.iUing the voyage in ■> hours. Fare 8L <linner and state-rooms extra. The
Citizens' Line runs boats to New York every morning. Steamers run (in summer,
4 times daily) to the beaches at the mouth of the harl)or.

Stages run from New Haven to Hartford via Durham, to North Branford and
Deejj River, &c.

John Davenport (of Magdalen College), a powerful jiarish pastor of T^ondon,
joined the Puritan wing of the Anglican Chundi, and in MYM was forced to leave
Lnglaud, with many of his peojiie. After nearly a year's sojourn at Boston, he
set sail with his people, ami landed at Quinniiiiac.'the pre.sent site of New liuven.

^^'

111

.1*

78 Route S.

BOSTON TO NKW YORK.

in April, ](]:\H. His wah " Mie iiir st, opiilt-iit c«»l(Hiy whicih oanio into New Knj^-
Ifind," un<l tlicy laid out a city witli '.• Hiiuarcs fm- IniililiiiK's ('ncloaln^; a large cen-
tral .s<iuart' (the (ireen), lh<>u;,'li tliuir lioiiscs only oc* iiiiit'tl tarn a small apace on
tiie present (leor^P Mt., between Cluircli iiinl ('ol!ej,'e tSts. The? colony was K«v-
erned for many yoara by its 7 most prominent chnrcli-meniliers, niter a cnrions
and impressive sermon by Davenport troin the text, '* Wisdom hatli builded her
house ; she hath hewn out lier 7 iiillars." One of tlie diiff of these was the
pure and learned Davenport, who was revered by the Indians as " so big study
man," and for whom Cotton Mather composed

"Epitaphiutn .lohnaniicN DuvcnpnrtuR, in Portiitn dclatuf.

VivuH, Nov-Anjiliip oc KcclfHitt! Orniiiiicnt'ini,

Murtuus, utriusquu trJHtc Ui-Hldvriuiii."

In 10.'}8 the 7 pillars bought of the Indians l:tO scpiare M. of laml for 13 eoatii,
and in 1UM!» the trucident Nepaupiick was tried for munler and l)ehea(led on the
(jreen, where his heail was long exposed. Tiie tratiing-itosts ol New Haven on
the Delaware River were broken up by the Swedes, and other losses combined
to discourage the settlers, who resolved to go to Jamaica, and tiien c(»nipleted
negotiations to buy Galloway, in Ireland. The shiii whicli bore their "commer-
cial esUites," sailed under Capt. Lanil>ert(tn for (Jalloway, in .Jan., 1647, but never
was heard from aftcirwards, save when, as the legend says, the spectre of the shij)
sailed into the harbor in the teeth of a head-wind, ami wlicn in full view of the
anxious ite(ti)Ie, it slowly melted into thin air, and vanished. The colonists
remained at New Haven, and in lG(i5 thl.. plantation was united with that of Con-
necticut (Hartford) on comlition that each town should retain the dignity of cap-
ital ; so to this day the State lias two semi-capitals. In 1755, the "Conn. Gazette "
was established here, and became the pioneer of the 8 weekly and semiweekly,
and the :i daily i)apers of New Haven. In Jan., 1701, 7 companies of militia and
the council convened, and proclaimed George III. King, drinking to him, the
royal family, and the King of Prussia. In 1775, Ilenedict Arnold (afterwards so
fanujus and infamous) led to Canjbridge the Governor's Guards, the best company
in the army. At sunrise, July 5th, 177i>, 1,500-2,000 Hessians and Tories were
landed at W. Haven Point, from 48 Uritish vessels. They took tin; fort and
town, which they plundered and jtartially burnt. They were much galled by the
militia who hovered on their flanks ami fought them in the streets. Rev. Dr.
Napthali Daggett, President of Vale College, was caiitured by them with fowling-
piece ill hand, and forced to guide their columns. When wellnigh dead from
mortllii!ation, and sore from rejteated bayonet-wounds, he was asked, "Will you
Ijgiit again ? " The militant divine answered, "I rather believe I shall, if I have
an opportunity." He or another pa.stor of the town was forced to ] tray for the
King, which he did as follows: "(> Lord, ))less thy servant King George, and
grant him wisdom, for thou knowest, O Lord, he needs it." Yale College was
transferred to New Haven in 1717. In 1820 the town had 8,:i20 inhabitants ; in
1870 50,840.

New Haven, "The City of Elms," a, .semi-capital of Conn., is built on
a flat, alluvial plain, at the head of a bay which sets in from Long Island
Sound. It is a handsome city, of modem appearance, rich in stately elm-
trees, and surrounded by picturesque hills. The city has a large West
India trade, and has about §10,000,000 invested in manufactures, which
in 3869 turned out 6,000 hay-cutters, 50,000 scales, 200,000 corsets, 1,200
Eureka organs, 600 Colibri pianos, and about 20 carriages daily. Fish-
lines, saws, Baumgarten church-organs, and cars are also made in great
numbers, while Sargent & Co. employ SOO men in vast hardware works.
Chapel, State, and Church are the principal streets, the two former in-
tersecting near the cavernous railroad station. There are several hand-
some chtirches here, and a very interesting old cemetery (on Grove St.,
at the head of High).

.*/

BOSTON' TO XKW YORK.

A' ./'/■<• S. 70

Aiii(»nK tliost' ImritMl lien* ait* Jt'liiuli Aslnniiii, a.'ctit, fDrlilhT, ami <leftMi<I('r of

Libel

Arth

Tuj.

ihilaiilli

111

Jro.s.swt'U, U. U., (ItiHliiug
ixilitioal editor, '80'J-'U, an.i ivitur of Triuilv Cliinvh. Now Hiivrii, 1H15-08 ; N.
W. Taylor, D. . ., n <lisci|iii' of KilwanlH ami prolcHHor of didartic tlii'olo^ify in
Yale, IS^a-M; Lj-Tiiaii Ueeclier, D. I)., "the most widely known nnd intliieiitiiil
preacher in the eountry, between 181 ') and 1851 " ; Tiniotiiy l)wi;,'ht, I>. I)., nran<l-
Hon of Jonathan Edwards, a <iistiti^'iiish» d theolo','iaii and i>oet, and I'n'Hident of
Yale, 1705-1817, who rode horseltael< through New Knj;laiid and N. Y. and inilv
lished an aecnimt of it in 4 vnliiines, also a system of llieolo;,'y in T) volmnes ; I)en-
ison Olmsted, LL. I)., jirofessor of natnral philosnidiy and astronomy at Yali»,
18'J>-59, and h ji'-olonnd astronomer; C. A. (ioodrieh, l>. !>., theohvian ami
lexieo'^'rajdier, ])r()tessor of rlntoric at Yale, 1817 -li.*; Noali Welister, LL. I).,
anthor and pnlilieist, whose " Kleuieiitary Spellinj^'-Rook " had a sale of r<0,()no,0(tO
copies, and who iirepared (1>S(»7 -"JS) and jmblished a Hictionary of tiie Km^lish
lan^^na^'e whieii has since been tiie standard ; Henjamin Sillinian, jirofessor of
eliemistry nt Yale, 1802 -.'>.'■), one of the ioremost scientists of his time ; .leiiodiali
Morse, I). D., " the father of American Kcography"; S. F. H. Morse (Ixtrn 17itl,
died 1872), who, in 18U, put in operation tlie tlrst electrii^ tele;,'raph in the U. S.,
who was covered with honors by Kiiroi>ean sovereij^ns and societies, and in 18.')7,
was jtresented with 4t)«),0iH) fran<'s liy a continental assembly at I'aris ; ElbridKO
Gerry, Vice-l'residcnt of tlie U. «., 181J- 10 ; U. S. Skinner, (Jov. of Conn., 1H44-
6, and U. H. Senator, 1847-51 ; David Da^CKctt. sometime ('iiief .Instice, nnd II. .S.
Senator, 18in-l!> ; S. W. S. Dutton, I). 1)., and (iov. Henry Dutton ; I'rnf. Mur-
doek and Sidney K. Morse ; .James llillhouse, U. S. Senator, 17i»4 -ISK), antl James
A. Hillhon.se, tlie ]io(!t of Sachem's Wood ; Andrew H. Foote, Kear admiral U. S.
Navy, lH)rn in New Haven, 18()(i, died 18(5;{. He foiij^lit tht; West India nnd
Sumatra jiirattis, ami in 1856 attacked tlie 4 IJarrier-Forts at Canton, China, with
the " Portsnionth 'i and " Ijevant." After a bomb:irdnient, at the head of 280
men, ho landed and stormed the forts in aucecHsion, thoii;,'li they were lieavy
granite works, monntiny 170 cannon, and defended by 5,000 men. In 1802 (Fel^ -
April) in u shttrt, sharp campaign at the head of the iron-cla<l s(piadron on tlio
Tennessee and Missi.ssipjti Rivers, he a.ssiste,d in the niduetion of Forts Henry,
Donelson, and Island No. 10. He was a very religious man, and was accustomed
to prea(!h to his sailors every Sunday.

Jonathan Knight, professor of surgery at Yale, 18:58-04 ; James L. Kingsley,
proiessor of Hebrew, Greek, and Latin, at Yale, 1805-51; David Humphreys,
the aid-de-camp and friend of Washington, and minister to Portugal and Spain,
1790-1802; Theophilus Eaton, Gov. (if the New Haven colony, 1038-57 ; Roger
Sherman, from 1774 to 1703 a member of the Continental Congress, and a signer
of the Declaration of Independence, who "never said a loolish thing in his life"
(JetTerson) ; Theodore Winthrop, the knightly soldier (author of " Cecil Dreeme,"
" Canoe and Saddle," &c.), who was killed at the battle of (ireat Jlethel, June. 10,
1801 ; Ezra Stiles, long Presiilent of Yale ; and Eli Whitney, the inventor of the
cotton-gin.

Among the broad streets lined with noble elms which extend on the N.
£ind W. of the Green, the most beautiful is Hillhouse Ave., a broad,
park-like drive, flanked by line mansions, at the head of which is the man-
sion and domain, " Sachem's Wood," belonging tc the Hillhouses. In
the W. part of the city is the Orphan Asylum, Alnu' House, and County
Prison. But the chief intere.st of New Haven centr(!s in and about the
Public Green. Here, on Church St. is the City Hall, one of the most
elegant municipal buildings in New England, and the Third Cong. Church.
On Chapel St. is the lofty and pretentious new mercantile building of
Hoadley. The Public Green itself is a great lawn, studded with fine
trees, and often used for parades. The North, Centre, and Trinity
churches stand in line near the middle of the Green (the first two are
Cong., and the last is Ei>iscopal), and preserve a curiously ancient appear-

- 1

1' ■ I

/.'.'*//.■ .V.

TIOSTON TO NEW YollK.

ance. Bmk of the CViitn- Chun li is tin- mominit'iit to the ro;?irith', .Tolui
Dixwcll, a iiuinltcr of a iiroiniiiciit Kentish fiimily, a coloiul in tlu! Par
li.iiiu'iitiirv army, an<l a nit'Tii'KT of tlic llritish State Cotuicil, who flcil to
Nfw Hiivon nt the Host oration. Near him is htirioM a fellow jiulj^'f,
Ivlwunl Whallty. On tlu' I'uldir firron, near Teniplo St., is the? State
House, a Imildin^' in tho sinip'c ami imposinj^ Crrcrian Doric nn-hiteeturt-,
hut const ructod of brick an<l stmco, and jircscnting a very dingy a[)iu'ar-
anco. Th(5 h'gishitnre moots hero on thoevon-numliorod years (1S72, ISJ!,
fee.) and the alternate years tin; sessions aro lield at Hartford. Teni])h)
St., with a glt)rious •(Jotliic aroli of elm-treos, separates tlie (ireon frf)ni
the groiintls of

Yale College.

In tlio year 17<'0 ten eler;;ynien jilanned to erect a collejjo in tlio colony of
Conn., and to fiirtlier tliat end, contntnited as ninny txioks as tliey ((H.id Rjwire,
1'or its liliiary. In 17ni, it was ciiarteieii, mid its eiasses riM'ited at Kiilinnwoitli
nntii 1707, wiieii it reiiiov«'<l to Sayiirook Point, and in 1717 a tliial remove (it iM
liopcd) w;is made to New Haven, At an early date tiie eoilene v.as named in
honor of lililiii Yale (born at New Haven in l«iiS), (iov. of Madras, and afterwards
(iov. of tlie Kast. India I'oiiipaiiv, wlio pive £A()0 towards its snpjiort. Tlio

Presidents of Yale : 'I'i thy Dwi-lit. Mzra .stiles, Tlieodore P. Woolsey (isid- 71),

iiml others, will eoiiipare f.ivoiaMy with the eurrespoiidin;; otileers of Harvard.
Alter the se(iilarizatfi>n of llarvanl liiiveisity, the Orthoijox ehnrelinien rallied
on Yale. This eiille-;e has done a iioMe work of education, and especially in
KJuipiiiK and slreii;,'tlieniii;; thos" niintis of L'onn. which have been so bnsy and
lionorcd throii^dioiit the Hepiililic.

.Said De Toc(|iieville in a Poiiith of .Tnly dinner at Paris : " Von day I vas in tho
f^allery t r the lloii.se of nepresciit.it ives. I held in my hand a nuip of the Con-
federation. Dere vas one Icctle yellow spot called Conneet-de-eoot. 1 fonnd
by do Constitution he was entitled to six of his boys to rejjre.scnt him on dat
tluor. lUit when I make the acquaintance ]iersonelle with the member, I find
•lat more than tiity (:i(>) of the Keprcsentative on dat tloor w.is born in Connect-
tle-coot. .\iid dell ven I vas in tie gallery of the Honse of the .Senate, I llnd de
Constitution permit dis .State to send two of his boys to represent liim in dat
le^dslatnre. Hnt once more, ven I make de aetpiaintance jiersonelle of the
Senator, I lind nine of the .Senator was born in Conneet-de-Coot.

".\nd now for my j.'iand sentiment -- Conne<'t-de-Coot, the leetlo yellow spot
dat niakc de cloek-iledler, the schooliiiast<'r, and the Senator ; de tirst give yon
time, tho second till you what to do with him, and de third make ycmr law and
civilization."

The line of ancient Imildings fronting on Temple St. compri.se.s S.
College (bnilt 1793), Athenanini (built for a chapel, 17t)l), S. Middle
College (175(1), Lyceum and N. Middle College (1803), Chapel (1824),
N. College (1822), and Division College (1835). These a'-e used for
dormitories ami recitation rooms, as i.s also Durfee Hall (1871,) and
Farnum Hall (1872), two handsome new buildings on the N. end. Three
line buildings are aligned on lligli St., on the N. the Alumni Hall, a
a neat red-.sandstone building with v large hall in which are hupg portraits
of many distinguished graduates. In this Hall are conducted tl»e ex-
aminations of new men, the Commencement e.xerci.ses, and the meetings
of the alumni. The liinonian S(jciety and the Brothers in l^^nity have
halls iu this building. Next S. i.s the ornate turreted building of the

•4-

it'T:,

BOSTON TC NKVV YORK.

lioutf S.

College Lilirnry, with mirnerouH ivy-vincH (|»lante«l with ureut <*frt'mony
by fitch gmtluiitiiiK 'liiMH) cliinbiiiK up its Miiiulstotit; wuIIh. Thu liilimry
I'oiituiiis S>0,(MH) voIuiniit'H. Nt'Xt 8. is tho Ohl C'oiuiuoiih' Hall, now um«'«1
for li'cturt'-rooius, and for the disjilay of tho great gt'ologinil caltiiiets,
fn'., prcparol hy Silliman, in which is the (Jihits collection of 2;'), (KM)
.specimens, indmling several Eiiroitean collections. Next conies the costly
modern b.iilding ol the Art (Jallery (see below). Among the smalltr
houses on the S((uare are the old Trumluill (iallery, and the little labora-
tory formerly used by the elder Silliman, and preserved as a relic of that
eminent scientist. Tlu! (Jymnasium (said to lie the best in the U.S.) is
on Library St., and the boat-liouse of the Yale Navy i-t m^ar 'I'ondinson's
Ihidge. Curious l)uildings near the square are occupied by the college
8o<'ieiies : the Psi Upsilon, on High, near College St. ; the Delta Kajipa
Kpsilon, on York, near Library St. ; tlu^ Scndl an<l Keys, corner Wall and
('(jllege Sts., &c. Yale is jjroperly a University, having, besides its large
academic dei)artment, the Slu'llield Siiciitilic S''hool, in a line building on
CJrove St., with llO- 1^0 students ; the Law School, on Church St., near
the City Hall ; the Medictal College, on York, near Chai>el St. ; the School
of the Fine Arts, and the Theological Sehool in a large new buililing,
eoriu-r of Elm and College Sts., with the neat Manpiand Chapel attached.
Jn 1871 there were 044 men in the academic department, with G8 instruc-
tors ; and liir» in the professional schools, with 20-25 instructor.s. The
Annual (Jommencement (la.st Thursday in July) is a great day in New
Haven, the exercises being (onducted iu the Centre Church and tho
Alumni Hall.

A large reading-room is in S. Middle College. George Pcabody left
§150,000 to Yale, which is to be used in building a tine Museum on
Chapel St., and a Memorial Chajicl is also in projection.

The lower part of the Art Building is occupied by stud'-^s, &c., and
the second floor contains some valuable pictures. The works of art in the
first room, to a large extent, belong to gentlemen of New Haven, and are
often withdrawn and new ones are added.

Anions tliose on exhibition licre iu 1872, worn Vi*w in tlic Catskills, Giffnrd;
Portniit iif (ii'or^;t! Pealxniy, Iliintiifjton ; ' Iiiterinr of Wcstniinster Abbey, and

* Interior (if St. Marlv's, Vi'iiice, Dor'ul Krnl ; lur^'c copies of the Madonnudi Foligno,
tlie Transllyuratioii, ami tiio Last Coniiiiunion of Ht. Jerome ; * Autumnal Scene,
GiJi'oiil ; AuHuoaoosuc Valley, ll'iir; Takinj,' the Veil, Weir; ami a large number
of portraits, sketches, &c. by (.'ol. TriDnhnll. In the sccoiid room are many easts
from antique sculptures ; 130, east of Jupiter, afler I'hld'uts; l.'il, Ilioneus, after
Praxitcki: V,Vl,\\\\i\\, Lnnihardi ; \'.V,\, Jephthali, yli((/wr; 135, Edwin Booth ; 136,
Col. Trumbull, Ball HunhcK; 137-8, busts by Powers; l.'U), statuette of Apollo;
1, head of Apollo ; 2, i-Esculapius ; 3, *he River-God of the Cephi-Sdus ; 4, Theseus,
after P kid ins ; ij, Y'u'Aory, after Phidias; (J, Kanephora ; 7 - -'H, Pauathenaic pro-
cession, from the outer frieze of the oella of the Parthenon : 2'.) -33 Con»bat of the
Greeks and Anjazous, from the frieze of the Mausoleum at Curia. In the corridor
are works of the same ehuss : 1, east from Eleusis ; 3, 4, 11, Metopes of the
Theseum : 12, 13, Combat with Centaurs. In tin: third room is the famous

* Jarvid collection of early Italian pictures (line catalotjue and "Manual of the

4* 9

X I

82 Bouff 8.

nOSTON TO NEW YOIIK.

study of early CliriHliaii Ail," for walo bv (In- Juiiiloi), TI.c iiichin'M from I to l(
an' 13yzai\tin<' llaliaii, ol tlw cloviMitli ami twclKli ceiitinitH : I. an altar jiiccc, tlu
rnii'itivion, lU'iiosition. and IsiitomltiiiiMit : 'J, tlic Nativity ; :t, a triptyrli, Ma

(liiiiiKi •iiiilf*1ki1.l 41111I V'liiiltj • ,1 IttuiiKilt iiii>4iii-itu 1*1-. till <ilifk Iiiu4>ii<«t 111' I'liiMul 111 I

the

• ■ ' • ■ • 1 ■ •■■" " ■ ■ ■ 1 .■ - • —

donna and Vliild and .Saints ; 4, I'.'siiiall |iirtnn>s from ilic history of Clirist, in n
Iriptycli ; '>, " a lar^,(' alt^ir |ii(<t('. rhrist and the Madonna, wiMi An^cln ; (I HI.
^icorgo UiUiiiji tin' IMaj^on ; 7. an alt,u' pit'i'i- in .'1 scclitniH, Christ in llaih-s, iS:(' ;
y-, The Annnnciation : ".', Mirarnlons Aitpcaran^'c ol S.S. Mcrcnrius and Calhi'iino
(KUhcontnry) ; 10, Madonna and Child : 1 1, Crncillxion, 'r'/an/d i/o I'i.in ; IJ, allar

.^j.y... ... >- '.,.»: If ...I ].. I ... . 10 M...I ..I > 'I.M.I /'.' I

(,'1

^l<>lll«llllill,> ; , II', iiltliii'iiii'i iMi'i \ iiii'i , I I, \ iiii iii.\ii'ii, 'rtiirfiif iiM I r.Mr , ij, fiiiiii-

Itii'i'o in 7 S('iii<ms, Mininn itouc iln An:zo; III, Mailonna and Child. Ci/ad/o/f ,*
14, Cni('i(!\ion. ind Madoima and Child, /" rccoi iln Sirnn ; 17. ' I'lnti'inhini'iit,
(Hollo; IS, Crinilixion, iliotlo; \\\, Aimnmiation, Coniliin ; 20, Vision of S. Idnni-
nii\ attvihii cd to loihiro i:>iihli ; 'Jl, ^SS. .lames, .lulian, .'iiid the Archangel
Michael ; '22. the Madonna and Child, &c. ; 2'.\, H.S, Au^nstine and laieia, O/fff/ixj ;
24, .ss. Uominicand .Vk'"'"*. "reo;/)!." ; 'J."», S. .lohii tlh Haptisl, (hnujun ; 2(1, " H.
Teter, OrciT(;)iii ,• 27. Tlie 'rnnity and Adoring Saints, ('iipnnii ; 2S. St. KraneiH

u......,;..:>..-4i. .h^'i.:_.....4.. a .r./* .31:. iiiv 'IM... i. „.....:.. ii.. ji.. .. 1 . tti\ 1 .1

/iiMKi ; 2K. St. rraneiH

ny in the Oarden ; :tO, Legend

reeeivinjj; the Stiumata, Aijiiolo (,'i,ilili ; 2'.i, The A;,iiii,v m nic ^i.-uuvn , .n>, i,i-j;i uu
of S. tiiovanni Cnalheno Vnscnliuo ; 'M, M;idoniia;inii Child, vte., (liottiiio ; :;j, 'fho
\dor;ition of tlw Shepherds, (iiottiiio; '.V.\, Cincitixion, Antiiio; ;U, Vision of
Con.^tnnti'ie, and Kail of Satan, Ari'li)io: 'M'l, The Assnm]>tioii ol' tin- Virgin ; lUl,
!SS. Co.'^mo and naniiaii, Jiirci ; 'M, the l)"positioii Irnni the Cioss, IVjirc/iia.i ,• 'AH,
The * Tri imph of l,ove{on wood). (U'litilr tin luthrinno ; :('.t, iMadonna anil I'hiM,
i}^nt;l^ .:., <.'.i.ii,-.'.i<... • III Ms; '/,.i...iii.> l.'i-..i.,ii., ..I' A....:..! \.. 11. ...... ..r i>,.,i.,.. l\...

> iiiiv (I in.ii liiiii^ viii'iii, iri'Mrc .iti/r(, 11^. w\itiiiii>"iia, \^(iiiii I'l villlit, I 'Uitt

kino; 116, * Madonna holding the Crown of Thorns, itukiioifn ; IKi, Spai
S'oblo, I'thiAiuez; 117, Head of the Dead (."hrist. Altnrl Dilnr; US, I'ortrait of
2inyeior Charles V., Holbein; 119, The ri-ooession to Calvary, Breiujhcl.

nish
the

Environs of New Haven.

Besides the beaches at Braufonl and Guilford (before spoken of), there
is a tine drive down the E. side of the liarbor, by tlie old Forts, Hale and
Wooster. The Urove (ateanier from Ne\v Haven 4 limes daily) and the
Love Houses are near the lighthouse, 5 M. from the city, the latter
($10 -$15.00 a week) being on a long, smooth, curving beach of white

Dili 1 to 10

|ii»'('('. tlu»
ityili, Ma
lirist, ill n

i'ls ; (i. HI.

laili'M, \o ;
Ciilhi'iino
; IJ, allar-

, Cimaliiir ;

iKinlnni'iit,

>tS. hoiiii-
Anlmnnd

I, (»;("((/»l(I ;

a ; 2(1.' ' H.

<t. Fnnu'iH

:10. I.t'^cnd

iiii; :;j, riic
Vision of

Vii>,'iii : 'M\,

i^iiiHii ; .SS.
iitnl Chilli,
'ail nil, hi a

iiiriilc ; 42,
ill, ]>aiiitt'(l

till .'i;i<l tliu

iptiition uf
lilt' Virgin,

Klnifiitincs

!» : &a. Ht.

■>, Nativity,

fi (/(( Siviiii ;

III-: (i;<. Aii-
w Princess
)f a liailv,

llrllini ; 77,
(fiiirjiinie ;

ml Actn'on,

() ili Cnili ;

ioinia sup-

lonna, Ao

<M. Christ

donna and

I'oitrait, of

, ('olonna,

ortrait of

Christ, in

', Afioxtiiio

incrva. and

a, Domeni-

«i, Spanish

trail of the

HOHTON TO NKW YOllK.

rfn„fr S. 83

of), there

Hale and

) and tlie

the latter

of white

hand. (Tlu" Huhiiri* «>f FairJiavfir, f»n tlih mIiIi', U fuirions for itMlarf^f and
jlelicioiis oystcrH.) Fort Wooster, l.Jj M. rmni thf city, w.-is l»uilt in
isl J, iind is now in niins , a noli|(< view is ^'aincd from tin- liill on which
it stands. Ahotit 200 yanls N. of this F'ort was the rcitKdcry of the
Qninniptacr Indians. l.\-2 M. frotn this ])oint Is Tort flah-. wliich was
(li*'any strcni^llicncil during,' the war of IHOI -('».', Imt is now dismantled.

The Kast and West Kocks are hold and 'ofty masses of trap-rock, on
the plain near the city, which ^'c olo^isls tliink wen. driven np throni^di
other strata hy Home great throe of the ceidra! forces. They h)rni the
soiilhern limit of the grent system of monntains which extends from
Hereford, in Canada, forming the valley of tlie (!onneetient lliver, which
many helieve once flowed hctwiien the.s(! elilfs to th(! Sound. East Rook
(carriage roMil to the lop, horse-cars to tln! I»ase from the (Jreen) is
l.J^-2 M. from the c(!ntre of the city, hy way of State St. A small stono
hotel is on its summit. An extensive * vi(!W is alford'-d Ikmhu-, cmhracing
the hroad valleys and hright waters of Mill and Quimiipi'ic RiverM, iVc. rural
districts of North Haven and llamden, the high hills toward Mount Car-
nu'I, lh(! frowning elilfs of West llock, the '"ity of New Haven, its har-
bor, and a long sw(!ep of Long Island Sound.

•West Rook (hor.se-cars from Chupcd St.) is 2-2.\ M. N. W. of the
(Jreen, and rises sharply from the jdain to an elevation of nearly 400 ft.
The ftH'.'-ent (ilillieult for ladies) is over a rugge(l and rocky j)ath beyond
the <ptarries. The view from the summit is ncsarly the same as that from
the Kast llock, exeept that a gr(%'it portion of the Quimiipiai; valley h
hidden, the northern mountains anMlilfiTently gronixrd, and the western
towns are unfolded to the vi(!W. A hard walk of 15-20 min. to the N.
over the rugg'd plateau hiads to the Jin/f/r's Cart\ a small eh^ft in a
group of bouhh^rs, where the regicides Oolfe an<l Whalley were hidden
for some time in 1(5(51. A <iti/.(!n who lived about 1 M. off brought them
food, until one night a catamount looked in on them .md " bla/ed his eyes
in Hueh a frightful numner as greatly to terrify tln-m," Winteryrcen
Fall is near the upper base of the rock, and al)ov(! it is a dam of rook
and earth I', 500 ft. long, whieh forms a lake of 7;'* acres for the water sup-
idy of the city. Near West Ro(;k is Malihij Park, covering 800 acres,
with 3 M. of driveways, and the (uty water-^/orks. At the foot of the
rock is Westville, near which is " I-^lgewood," tin; rural honn; of DonaM
G. Mitchell (Ik Marvel), the author of " Dream Life," " Reveries of a
Bachelor," and otlier charming books.

Savin Rook, 4 M. S. W. of New Haven (horse-cars from the Green
half-hourly) is the favorite resort of the citizens. The road passes
through West Haven, a quiet old village, Avith a tall church on an elm-
shaded green. Savin Rock is a bluff promontory j)ushing a roc-ky front
against the waves, and stands at the end of a long, sandy beach which has

:i:

84 Route 8.

BOSTON TO NEW YORK.

a very light surf. A pretty view of the Sound is gained from the top of
the hluff, near wliicli once stood a fine liotel, wliicli was recently bunted
down. Tlic Sea- View House can now acconunodate Tf)- 100 guests.

Several busy manufacturing villages are in the vicinity of New Haven.
Newhallvillc, where the Winchester riHes are made ; Centreville, the
lioine of large car, carriage, and saw factories ; Wliitneyville ; Westvillc,
wliere 360,000 gross of match-splints and §50,000 worth of berry -baskets
are ma<'.e yearly, occ.

On leaving the dark and crowded, but centrally located, station at New

Haven, the Shore Line train passes on to the rails of the New York and

New Haven R. R,, on which the cars of the Si^ringfield route run, and

wliich will also be used by the Air Line route. The first station is West

llacin, i M. from Savin Rock, Next conies Milford, (Milford Hotel,

$2.00), a pretty village, with wide streets lined with arching elms, t A

with an enclosed green J M. long.

Tlie aborigines of Wapowage having been crowded off, this district was settled
and named, in 1C30, by a oonipany fn ni Milford, in England. The occupation
Boeins to have been in accordance with a series cf resolutions at an early meeting
of the Milford church. "Voted, That the earth is the Lord's, and the fulness
tlierecjf. Voted, That the earth is given to tlie saints. Voted, That we are the
saints." The settlement being menaced in* the Indo-Duteh War of 16-18-6, it
was surrounded by a wall and palisade 1 M. around ; and the dreaded Moliawks
having been repulsed by Connecticut indians near Milford, the saints ]>ossessed
ilic earth in peace. O.i New Year's Day, 1777, 20f> American soldiers, ca])tivea
from the prison-shii)s at New York, were cast aHho>"e here from British cartel-
ships, and despite the truly saintly ministrations of the Milfordites, 4(; of them
died in one n\onth. They were buried in the old cenn^tcry (near the stjitlon), and
a monument ;J0 It. high raised over them, which states tlie facts, and the aames
of the victims, and asks, "Who shallsay that Reimblics are ungrateful?"

St. Peter's (Episcopal) Church is a venerable and ivy-clad stone edifice
on the green and terraced banks of the tranquil Posquag. Two large
white churches (of wood) stand on the hill beyond. A large amount of
straw-goods is made in the village. Charles Island (small hotel) is in
the Sound near Milford, and is much visited in sur.imer.

Soon after leaving Milford, the line crosses the broad Housatonic River,
ar.d stops at Stratford^ a quiet village with neither hotel nor factory, and
ricli in two or three elm-lined, tranquil streets, where one can stroll on
dreamy autumn afternoons and feel as if in a second era of the Truce of
God. Such streets are found iidy in these old towns on Long Island
Sound. Stratford was settled by Massachusetts men, in 1639, and its
pastor was Adam Blackman, whom Cotton Mather (who is fond of play-
ing upon words) calls "aNazarite purer than snow, and whiter than
milk." The society which he organized now meets in a new Swiss Gothic
church near the station. Dr. Samuel Johnson, first President of King's
(Columbia) College, and " Father of Episcopalianisni in Connecticut," is
buried near the venerable Clirist Church (founded 1723).

The ne.xt station is Bridgeport. ^

I \

BOSTON TO NEW YORK.

Route S. 85

he top of

ly bun)ed

sts.

w Haven.

ville, the

»Vestvillc,

y-bii.skets

m at New
York and
run, and
n is West
td Hotel,
;lms, 4 A

,vas settled
occupation
ly meeting
he fulness
ive are the
1648-6, it
I Mohawks
l)o.ssesseil
s, ca])tiveH
ish caitel-
(i of them
itlnn), and
the aanies
1?"

ne edifice
fwo large
monnt of
itel) is in

nic River,
;tory, and
stroll on
Truce of
iig Island
3, and its
1 of play-
liter than
ss Gothic
of King's
ticut," is

('SterlinK House. Main St.; Atlantic Hotisc, opposite station, each $.S.OO a
day; City Hotel, &c.) Oirriafifs, 50t;. a course witliin the city for each pci-son,
or ?1.00 for ;{ jicrsons. Po.s/ Office on State, near Main St. Opern Umise on State,
near Main. Library, corner A!ain and Beaver, with 9,000 volumes; magazines
and j>apcrs in tlie reading-room.

Tliis district was owned by the PauRUsset Indians, and was occupied soon after
Mason's victory in Ui^7, when lie pursued the Pequots in this direction. The in-
nocent Pauf,'ussets (with tlieir hundred, wigwams) were .soon crowded on to a res-
ervation of 80 acres at Oohlen Hill (.so named f';nu its glittering mica), and the
l)oor half-dozen who remained in 176.5 sold out and left. From the ctmtiguous
towns of Strafford and Fairliehl a new i)arish was foi ined, called Stnitfi'dd, and from
this Bridgcjiort was afterwards organized. Charles Chauncey, tlu; famous Puritan
Father, was pastor here for '20 years, an<l while lie lool^ed after the a«iults the
church "Voted tliat Nathaniel Waekle should be tlie man to look after y« boyes a
Sabbath dayes in time O; exercise tiiat they i>lay not." In 1715, Pastor Cooke of
New Haven acceiited a call here on a salary of " 200 ^ a year, or i)roviaions at the
following ra'es, viz : Indian at 2.s-., ry at 2,'!. 8^/., wheat at 4.s. per bush., porck at
20.S. peri'Wt.,and firewood for tlit! yous of the family." People were seated in
the church "by dignity, Adge, and a .state.'" In 1707, an Ki)iscoj)alian mission-
ary Wfus sent here iroiu Englaiid, who, by 174S, had organized a church (the i)re3-
ent St. John's Society). In 1771, during Sunday morning service at the Congre-
gational Church, a storm arose, tlie darkness was broken by a broad sheet of
lightning, accompanied by a terrilie crash, antl wlieii it had i)assed the two chief
men were fouiul dead in tlieir ]tews, and many in the congre^^.itioii were stunned,
bruised, ami wr)un(led. In I8;j(), l{ridgei»ort was incorporated tis a city, and since
then has grown hirger and richer yearly.

The principal manufactories of the city are the great Sewing-Machine
works of Wheeler and Wilson (employing 800 hands), and of Elias Howe,
Jr. (the latter made 30,000 machines in 18G9), the Pacific and the New
Haven Arms Co., the Uiiion Metallic Cartridge Co., the American and
the Simpson Water-Proof Co., the Bridgeport Brass Co., &c., &c.
Immense quantities of steel-pointed cannon-shot were made here in
1801-5.

Mountain Grove Cemetery is gained by Fairfield Ave. (horse-cars),
and is in a picturesque situation. The Harral family has a fme Gothic
monument on one of the hills. Iranistan, Bamum's large mansion, stood
on Faiifiehl Ave. St. Augustine's Church (Catholic) 's a large granite
edifice on Golden Hill, opposite which is the Cluny-like Wheeler mansion
in its exLer.sive grounds. Beyond this the aristocratic .streets of Golden
Hill extend. North Ave. was the centre of the ancien't settlement, of
which some gray houses remain. It was then callcil the King's Highway.
Broad St., parallel to Main, has a line of neat churches. Wa.«'-iington
Park is a plain, grassy lawn in E. Bridgeport, on which is the pr -tty
Church of St. Paul, and beyond it is Pembroke Lake. On the S. of tho
city (horse-cars on Main St.) is * Sea-Side Park, a fine resort looking out
on the harbor and the Sound. The beach is backed by a long sea-wall,
beyonu which is a broad esplanade, with carriage-road and foot-path, in
full view of the water, and of Long Island. Beyond the Park is Black
Rock Village, where was born Capt. Chauncey, of the U. S. Navy, a dis-
tinguished officer of the War of 1812. During much of the Revolution-
ary era, the 4th Conn, encamped at the Park. The stately mansion

r r

i
i

m '^

88 Jloute S.

BOSTON TO NEW YORK.

■which overlooks the Park was built by P. T. Barnuni, the great show-
man.

BaniUTti was bom in Conn.. 1810, anrl began his great career as showman in
1835 (with Joice Heth). In 1840, he paid Jenny Lind 8150,000 for singing 150
nights in Anicricii. In 1865, liis great nuisemn at New Yorl< was destroyed.
Charles H. Straltop, or Gen. Tom Tiinnib, was born at Bridgeport in i.S32. His
size and growth were as usual until his seventh month, wtieu he ceased to grow.
In 1844 Barnum took him to Kuroi)e ; and since that time his travels have liecn
incessant and his revenues la.ge. In 186:^ he married Miss Lavinia Warren, of
Middhiboro', Mass., a young lady of ubout the same stature as himself, — to wit,
28 inches.

Steatnern leave Bridgr]tort for New York twice dailv, also for Port Jefferson,
L. I., twice daily (fare •>? 1.00). St:iges for Black Rock, Kaston, kc

Railroads. The Naugatuck II. It., from Bridgeport to Winsted (62 M.), runs
N. in the valleys of the Housatonii' and N.-aigatuck Rivv-rs. (Route 16.) The Hous-
atonic It. It. runs from Bridgeport to I'ittslield, Mass., 110 M. (Ro' te 17.)

The next station is Fairfield (Fairfield House, or Marine Pavilion,
$10- $12.00 a week; open in summer only). Fairfield is an ancient
village, with a beautiful street lined with villas and careful landscape
gardening. On the Green arc the Episcopal and Congregational Churches,
and the Court House, •'Built A. D. 1720, destroyed by the Britisli
A. D. 1779, rebuilt A. D. 1794, remodelled 1870."

July 7, 1770, Tryon with his Hessian Yagers, returning from the pillage of New
Haven, landed here, sacked the village, and burned 200 houses. The scene in-
spired Col. Humphrey's Elegy begiiniing, —

" Yc smoking riiing, mnrks of hostile ire,

Ye ashes warm wliieh drink the tears that flow,

Ye desolated plains, my voice inspire,
And (rive sott music to my song of woe.

How pleasant, Fairfield, on th' enrepturcd sight,
Itosc thy tail spires, and upe'd thy social halls."

Another poet of that day was more jwinted in his remarks : —

*' Tryon achieved the deeds malign, And snuled to sec destruction spread ;

Trvon, the name for every sin. "While Satan, blushing deep, looked on.

Hell s blackest fiends the ilanic surveyed And Infamy diisowned her son."

10 mill, walk S. of the Green leads to the beach, the best on the Sound,
protected by a bar from S. winds, with a gradually-sloping, sandy shore,
and no surf. To the S. is the lighthouse on Penfield Reef, and Black
Rock light is to the E., in which direction is a high, grassy bluft' on which
it is conteni])lated to build a mammoth hotel. 15 miii. walk N. of the
Green is Round Hill, commanding a wide view of Bridgeport and the
Sound. Some miles .'. are Samp Morfar Rock (a precipice 70 ft. high,
on whose top is a deep hole where the Indians pounded corn), and Green-
field Hill, where President Dwight was once settled, and where he wrote
the poem (popular 70 ycar.s ago) of "Greenfield Hill." From this point
a fine view is gained, embracing, according to the poet,

" Norwalk'g white asceniling spires, 8k.v-eneircled Easton's churchei,
Stratford's turrets, Fairfield giving lustre to the day.

Prince of the waves, and ocean s favorite child,
There Longa's Sound all gloriously expands. "

Southiyort station and village is 2 M. from Fairfield. N. of the railroad

■f:

BOSTON TO NEW YORK.

Route 8. 87

real show-

thnwman in
singing 150

dt'strovpfl.

i.s;52. His
ied to grow.
s have been

Warre!!, of
f, — to wit,

rt Jcffprr.on,

^02 M.), inns
) The Hous-
e 17.)

Pavilion,

an ancient

landscape

Churclu's,

he Briti.sli

lage of New
le scene in-

>n spread ;
;p, looked on.

lOD.

the Sound,
andy shore,
, and Black
ift' on which
k N. of the
)rt and the
70 ft. high,

and Green-
re he wrote
n this point

let,

the railroad

and near the station is a cultivated field, which occupies the site of the
Sasco Swamp, where, in 1G37, the Unquowa (Fairfield) Indians anda strong
liand of Pequots took refuge. Mason, with troops of Mass. and Conn,
surrounded the swamp, and after a parley the Uiupiowas were allov/ed
to come out (being blameless). The Peijuots refused all terms, and, after
an obstinate attack, 70 of them broke the English line and escaped. 180
were made prisoners and sold to the West Indies as slaves. Soon after
these "fair fields "were occupied by a company from Concord, Mass.
Tlie next station is Westport. The village is 1^-2 M. N. of the rail-
road, on the widenings of the Saugatuck, and is a lively little place.
The Memorial Church of the Holy Trinity is a fine Gothic edifice of
sandstone, alongside of which, and in strong contrast, is a heavy Egyptian
tomb.

Station, S. Norwalk (Lacas Hotel, Allin House), near which is the
village of No^'walk (horse-cars to station). The legend says that this
land, in the purchase (1640) from the Indians, was to extend one day's
"north walk " from the Sound, In 1653, the town was incorporated,
having then 20 families. July 11, 1779, Tryon's Hessians plundered and
burnt the village, meeting with such resistance from 50 Continental
sokuers and the militia that they lost 148 men. S. Norwalk is now an
incorporated city, and Norwalk {Conn. Hotel) is a pretty village on the
heights. Midway between them is the i)alace of Le Grand Lockwood
(costing about $ 1,000,000). The fine picture-gallery was moved to New
York soon after Mr. Lockwood's death, in 1872. The Norwalk Lock Co.
makes 900,000 locks yearly, in 300 forms; the Union Knob Works turn
out 1,500,000 knobs (of New Jersey clay) yearly. Hats and shoes are
largely manufactured here. The oyster business is extensively engaged
in by Norwalk men. At the draw-l)ridge, near Norwalk (on the E. ), a
frightful accident once took place, wlien an express train dashed into the
open draw and was precipitated into the channel.

Stations, Darien (village h M. S. of the station), Noroton. Noroton is
1-lJ M. from Darien, and is the seat of Fitch's Home for Soldiers, a
beneficent institution foimded by Benjamin Fitch, Esq., a wealthy gentle-
man of Darien. Many of the children of the fallen soldiers are educated
and cared for here, and i)repared for lives of industry and honor.

A fine gallery of paintings (mostly modem French) is attached to the Home,
and i.s open to visitors.

I, Portrait of Beiyamin Fitcli ; 2, The Wandering Jew, Delia Monica ; 3, The
Cliaritable Priest, .JurUlo (?) ; 4, Aral)s, Adolplie Azc; 5, Gaming, Cnsmna; 0,
Young Cinist ; 10, Fruit, Matthkii, ; 11, * Greek Girls nivoking Eros, Mansfeld-
Bccitmont ; 12, The Old Lover, Zamacois; I'd, iSfene on the Canipagna, Fay;
20, The Coming Storm, Verheyden ; 22, Europa and the Bull, Cortone ; 23, Am-
sterdam, lloflaucr; 24, The Judgniei't of Solomon, Zurharan ; 25, Scene at a
tii.os(\\\Q, Adolphc Azc ; 27, lloXy VumWy, School of Murillo ; 28, Lanipliglit Study,
Rosiarzc ; 2'.>, Arclies near Mareeilles, Amk^wh ; 32, Adoration f the Magi, Fm/ir/- ;
47, " Algerian Princess at the \i-di\\. Ad (ilphe Azc; 3(5, Marine, Hojfbaver ; 38,
Landscape, Van Huysum ; 40, Genre, /an Ostade; 42, * Tambourine Girl, lio-

88 liouie S.

BOSTON TO NEW YORK.

'ij

i'H

(JHgvfz ; 44, 46, Swiss Scones, Hnvzer ; 48, Motlier and Child, Coseman ; 50, Tlio
Foot-liridgo, i.'i/?o?< ; 52, Tlio Madonna adoring tlic Infant Clirist, GVtro/(t/o ; W.\,
As8umi»tion, Prtulhon ; 54, The Marriage, (Ircuze ; 55, Roman nower-Girl, Ouriet ;
50, Portrait by Uiheira (?) ; 57, Tlie Iletum of Cohimbus, Dcveria ; 58, Knil'tv
Orinrler, Teniers (?) ; 59, Holy Family, Rubens (very doubtfid) : 60, Game-rie( c.
A. Aze; 61, Wonnded on the Baltle-Field, //. Vernei; 62, Jonah and the Whale,
Eckhout ; 65-9, (lenre pictures, by Schopin ; 66, Aurora, after Guido ; 67, Al-
pine Landscape, Hnfbnuer ; 71, Roman (Jirl, Riedd ; 72, The Toilet, Delechaur ;
77, Lady pouring Tea, Senecourt ; 78, Cavalier, I'atroU ; 83, Last Supper, Tinto-
retto {'i); 84, Milking, lierrihem ; 86, Fruit-Girl, Toiirny; 88, Alpine Landsca]>e,
Hnfhuuei ; 8i>, Lady at Window, L'osti ; !tl, Fruit, De liccm ; !»3, 100, Dogs,
Jila n chard ; 04, Hhcej), Vcrhncckhovcii ; !».'>, Alclicniist, I'ichut ; 1)7, Soldier, Caii-
ture ; 98, Female Head, Aita ; 99, Farm- Yard Scene, vl. A:r ; 102, Dead Deer,
Gerard; 10a, liashful Suitor, Tabnou ■he ; 106, The First Snow; 109, Eli^jah fed
by the Ravens, Jknicher ; 111, Holy imily, with SS. John and Catharine; 112,
Cattle, llofuinjier ; 113, Rajdiael and I^a Fornarina, Jlarnn ; 115, Massacre of tie
Inuoi'initH, ( hi ido Reni ; 110, Maiden reading, ^r'ro,s,so< ; 117, The Throne of France
in 1793, Cube; 121, *Cin(;innatus and the Roman Senators, Zink ; 123, Shecj)
and Country Lan<!, Mcmird; 124, 128, (rV/ne pieces, JSoiiraoin ; 129, Musicians,
Srvre ; 132, Sjmnish Scene, UodrUjvrz ; 133, *Slict']), JVr?/oi'rW(0)"e/i (of wonderful
finish) ; 135, Portrait, Panneyinno ; 136, * Attack on Castle (of Cologne?), Rolmer ;
lo8, Blowing Soap-Cubbies, Chaplin ; 139, Roman Girls, Horhvi ; 141, Head, U'a-
(jrez ; 161, Holy Family and Saints, Ikmifacio; 144, Landscape, Poelemburtj ;
154, Girl and Parrot; 155, Tourists in the Alps, (liranlet ; 158, Dog's Head,
Gcrome ; 153, I3Hnd Man and his Dog, Mnvligiwn ; 151, ^Eastern Princess, Ac-
cnnite ; 149, * Female Head, Pto^ ; 162, Fruit and Game ; 177, Rattle Scene ; 174,
The Dead Christ (Pietii), T/^m?i (?) ; 175, Diana, Raphael Mcngx ; 171, Portrait of
Rai)lviel ; 173, Lady's Portrait, Tvapie ; 169, Marine View, Waldorp ; 167, Tamo
Bear and Villagers, Rochu ; 168, St. Mark's and the Ducal Palace (Venice) ; 166*,
IVu, Soldiers, Jrouvernian:; ; 188, Cattle, Jirascassat ; 189, 190, Scenes from Abra-
ham's Life; 205, Martha Washington; 184. Roman Girl, Nanteuil ; 182, Re-
ligious Scene, Jlassano (?) ; 17, Samson and Delilah ; lo3, Judith and Holofemes ;
181, Naval Battle by Night, Fovlcs ; 180, Moses and the Hebrew Host at Sinai,
Barharelli ; 179, Diana after the Ch.jse, /Jrci/r/ftcZ. Lower Room. 198-9, Swiss
Views; 197, Rebecca and Eleazar, CartafiUnno ; 221, Bearing off the Wounded,
Le Dieux ; 225, * Queen Elizabeth, F«7? /)j/A:; 201, Achilles spinning, 7)tcpen&ecA- ;
203, Naples; 204, Peace and Plenty, Gardner; 209, Landscape, Allegrain ; 210,
Domestic Scene, Cano. The picture numbered 150 (in the upjier hall) is by Bon-
gnereau, and was long known as "the gem of Paris." Some call this the best
]>icture in the gallery, while others ])refer Verboeckh oven's Sheep (133), a small
work, yet of microscopic finish. The works of Adolphc Aze are said to be " ex-
empt from criticism," as he has gained everj' medal and honor where his paintings
have appt;ared. In the lower room is a choice and well-used library, including
800 volunu's of Bohn's works presented by English friends. This room also con-
tains several large pictures. In the room on the r. is a fine piece of statuary
emblematic o the purpose of the institution. The view from the observatory
above the building is very i)retty.

3 M. beyond Noroton, the train stops at Stamford, (Stamford
House, Union House), whicli was founded in 1641, and thereafter
sometimes harried by tlie Dutch from New York, In 1838 it was a dull
liamlet of 700 inliabitants ; but soon after the Empire City looked with
favor upon it, and during the last 25 years its hills have been occupied by
the villas and parks of New York gentlemen. Hence fine churches have
been liuilt, broad avenues are laid out, and a cluster of admirable schools
has arisen. 8t. Andrew's (Epis.) Church is a little gem of Gothic archi-
tecture, guarding a wide sweep of graves. The Univ. Church, near by, is
a handsome stone building, while the Catholics are raising a large church,

BOSTON TO NEW YORK.

lioute S. 89

; 50, Tlio
'ofiiln ; t>:\,
irl, Oufiet ;
58, Knif*!-
ime-Pieco,
;he Whalo,
9; 67, Al-
DelecJiavr ;
per, Ti7Uu-
jnndscai)0,
100, Dogs,
Idior, Con-
tend Deer,
Elijah tV'<l
irine ; 112,
icre of tic
; of France
123, Sheep
Musieiaiis,
wonflerlul
?), Rolmr.i- ;
Head, Wn-
oelemhurtj ;
)j,''s Head,
rincess, Ix-
leene ; 174,
Portrait of
167, Tame
ice); 16G*,
from Abra-
; 182, Rc-
lolofemes ;
Lt at Sinai,
^-9, Swiss
Wounded,
Jiepenheck ;
train; 210,
is by Bon ■
is the best
53), a small
to be " ex-
s paintings
, ineluding
11 also con-
)f statuary
bservatory

Stamford
thereafter
as a dull
)ked with
cupied by
ches have
le schools
hie arehi-
ear by, is
;e church,

on the road from the station. A fine new Town Ilall, of brick and Ohio
stone, 150 ft. front and with a tower 100 ft. high, rises in the centre of
the village (.^ M. from the station). Near it is a small, triangular park
with a fountain. A pleasant drive is that on the New Haven road, i)assing
many fine villas, among whicli is Quintard's stone chateau. 1000-1500
New-Yorkers come here during the summer, many of whom stop at Sliip-
pan Point (lJ-2 M. from the station), where is the large Ocean House,
from whose beach a pretty still-water view is alforded. Pound Rock is a
ledge numing into the Sound not far from the Point.

Col. Abraham Davenport, "a man of sU'rn intej^jrity and penerons benevo-
lence," was born at Stamford in 1715, and was for 25 years in the State lej^^isla-
ture. On the memorable l)arl< Day, May I'.ttli, 1780. great fear fell on tlie legisla-
tnrc, then in session ; and in anticipation of the ajiproacdi of tin; Dav of universal
Jiid>;ment, an a<Uournmeiit wa,s moved. Tiie brave old man arose, and tiius spoke,
calming tlie fears of tlie legislators, and continuing tlie session: "lam iigainst
an ailjournnie.it The Day of Judgment is either approaching, or it is not. If it
is not, there is no cause for an adjournment. If it is, I chou.se to Im; found doinj^
my duty. I wisli, therefore, that I'aniUes may be brouglit." This scene has been
made the theme of a line poem iiy Wliittier. Col. Davenport's sons, .James and
John, were olllciiis in the llevt)lution, and afterwards members of Congress
(17!H5-9 ; 1799-1817).

Steamers leave Stamford for New York daily. A Ruilrodd runs from this point
to New Canaan, a (juiet country town 8 M. to the N.

Stations, Cos Cob (village N. of the railroad, on the Miantus River),
and GrcemHch (City Hotel, open in summer). Greenwich was settled in
1640, and in 1650 was appointed by the Anglo-Dutch frontier commission
in session at Hartford as the W. limit of Conn. Somewhere in this early
' je, a desperate battle lasting all day was fought on Strickland's Plain,
between the Dutch and Indians. The village stands on rolling hills,
h M. N. of the station. 15 min. walk to the E. is a stately Cong.
Cluirch, built of gray rubble, with deep transepts, a wide and i)ietures(pie-
ly irregular front, a high pointetl roof, and a fine stone spire in open-
work. This fine edifice is on a high hill, and may be seen for leagues
along the Sound, resembling some pilgrimage church on the Seine
or Danube. Near this is the e.xipiisite Christ Church (Epis. )in a shel-
tered grove on the ridge, built of gray stone trimmed with Caen stone.
It has a handsome stone spire, and its interior is said to be very ele-
gant.

A few rods beyond (to the E.), on the r. of the road, is an old cemetery, whero
stood the church in 177!>, near which Gen. Putnam, with GO militia-men, fouglib
an advancing force of dragoons until the last iu;jmeut possible. Tiien, since to
go down by tlie curving road (the present road is modern and more direct) woul I
exi)()se him to a close hre from many of the enemy, he galloped ids hoi-se ih)\va
the steps built in tlio steep hillside for the churcli-gocrs. Tlie British cavalry
.sunt a volley after him (one shot iiiercing his iiat), but dared not follow, althoug i
two or three dragoons of Lafayette's escort to the place (in 1S24) i)erfonncd tlio
feat safely. Putnam lost 2 cannon here, but his men mostly escaped to tiie aiOa-
cent swamps, and the next day Old Put attaclicd Tryon's rear-guard with a fon o
from Stamford, and captured 88 men.

S. E. of the Greenwich station is Indiar Harbor, on a point near whicli

90 Route D.

BOSTON TO NEW BEDFOUO.

■i\

are Uio j^reat buildings and parks prepared hy the wcaltiiy AmericusClub,
of New York.

Soon after leaving Greenwich, the train crosses the Byram River, and
leaves Yankee-land, wliic^h is said to stretch "from Qnoddy Head" (in
Maine) "to Byram lliver." Stations, Port Chester, in Westchester
County, New York (Do Soto House), a busy village with 5 churches, Jtyc
(with a fine beach 2 M. S. Pi. of the station), Mavmroneck, "the place
of rolling stones," where Smallwood's Maryland battalion defeated
Rogers's Tory Rangers in 1776, and New Sochelle. This village was set
tied by Huguenot refugees in 1G91, after the full of La Rochelle, and the
French language was long used here. Tlie State of New York granted a
tract of land here to Thomas Paine.

Tlionias Paino, was horn in England, 17.37, and came to America in 1774. Early in
1770 li(i pul>lished a tract, "Comnion-Hense," advocating republican indepen-
dence, and in Dec. " Tlie Crisis "was published, beginning with the words, "These
are the times that try men's souls." This was read at the head oi every Conti-
nental regiment, and aroused the drooj)iiig spirits of the army and people. Af-
ter filling several offices in the U. .S., he went to France in 1701, and was elected
to the National Convention. After a stormy life in Europe, during which he
attacked IJnrkc in the " Rights f)f' .Man," and advocated atheism in the "Age of
Reason " (17i'o), he came to New Rochelle in 1802, and settled on an estate given
him by New York, where he died in 1809. In 1811) Wm. Cobbett removed his re-
mains to England, and in 18;]9 the State erected a monument to Paine on his old
farm.

After Neio Rochelle, the train passes Pelhamville, and at Mount Ver-
non turns to the S. W., and runs on the rails of the Harlem R. R.,
through several suburban villages without stopping, then crosses the
Harlem River, and stops at the station, 42d Street, corner of 4th
Avenue.

New York, see Route 51. ,

9. Boston to New Bedford.

Via Boston and Providence R. R., &c., in 2 hours.

Boston to Mansfield, see Route 8. Stations, Norton (Mansion House),
Crane's, Attleborough Junction (wher'' a branch line diverges to Attle-
borough), Whittenton, Tannton (see Ro^ te 3.) At Weir Junction, the
line connects with the Old Colony R. R. (western division), at Middle-
horo' Junction with the Middleboro' and Taunton R. R., and at Myrick's
with the Old Colony R. R, (eastern division). The track now crosses the
toAvns of Freetown and New Bedford, and stops at the latter city.

New Bedford (Parker House, Mansion House), the Acushnet of the
Indians, was settled in 1704, by Quakers, on lands owned by one Russell.
This being the family name of the Dukes of Bedford, the settlement was
named hi compliment to them. In the Revolution the place became a
perfect ne.st of privateers, until a British force under Earl Grey attacked
it (in the autumn of 1778), and destroyed its shipping, wharves, and

BOSTON TO NEW BEDFORD.

ItouteO. 91

•ric.usClub,

River, and
Head" (in
iVestchester
iirches, li'/c
"the plaro
n defeated
ige was set.
lie, and the
k granted a

74. Early in

■an indepfn-

ords, "Tlicse

every Conti-

I)eople. Af-

was elected

ng which he

the "Age of

estate ^iven

moved his re-

ne on his old

Mount Ver-
lem R. R.,
crosses the
ner of 4th

ion House),
is to Attle-
mction, the
at Middle-
at Myrick's
crosses the

ity.

met of the
>ne Russell,
lement was
became a
ey attacked
larves, and

stores. About the time of the settlement (1764), a few vessels were sent
out in the pursuit of wliales ; and this business soon became so great as t«»
give New Bedford the name of the Whaling City. The Revolutionary
War briefly interrupted this career of prosperity, but between 171K) and
1850 the whalers from this port penetrated every 8ea. The business
began to decline after the C'alifoniian gold-fever ; scores of the old ships
were filled with stone, carried to the Soiith, and sunk in the channels be-
fore the rebellious cities on the coast ; and in the last hours of the Secession
War the Confederate cniiser " Shenandoah " destroyed a large part of
the Pacific whaling fleet. Although this business has greatly waned, the
attention of the people has so been turned to manufacturing industry that
the city still maintains its prosperity. The Wanisutta Mills have four
large buildings of stone, containing 90,000 spindles, operated by 1,600
workmen, and consuming 10,000 bales of cotton yearly. 300 men arc
engaged in carriage manufactories ; 200 in glass-works ; 100 in theGosnold
Iron Works, $ 2,500,000 worth of oil a year is turned out by large oil-
works ; 2,000,000 lbs. of copper sheathing are made yearly ; and other
industries are in full tide of progress. The city has lately laid out
$ 700,000 for an extensive system of water-works. Tlie population in
1870 was 21,375.

New Bedford fronts on the widenings of the Acushnet River, near its
mouth, and is built on the side of a ri<lge sloping to the water's edge. It
" lias a cosmopolitan air always blowing over its strata," from the number
of foreign mariners who are found here, and one of its quarters is called
Fayal, from the large population of Portuguese there residing. The upper
part of ^he city is pleasant, and County St. is lined with stately old
residences of the marine aristocracy, whence Lady Emma Stuart Wortley
called this "a city of palaces." Tliese " palaces " are all on the model of
the "architectural boulders" so common in the decadent fishing-ports
along the coast. The City Hall is a fine granite building, and the
Custom House is built of the same material. Several of the churches an;
notable for their neatness and grace, especially the spacious UnitariaTi
Church. The City Library is a large and rapidly increasing collection of
books, kept in finely arranged rooms, and free to the public. The wealthy
old families of the aristocracy of New Bedford are famous for their hospi-
tality and culture, and but few of the citizens go abroad to seek summer
recreation. The favorite drive is around Clark's Point, which extends into
Buzzard's Bay, and is bordered by a broad, smooth road, constructed at
great expense by the city to give its people the benefits of the sea-breezes
in summer. This avenue (5 M. around) aflbrds a brilliant scene in sultry
summer afternoons.

Opposite the city, and joined to it by a bridge and steam-ferry, is Fairliuven (so
named from its pretty location), a village formerly devoted to the wlnle trade.
In 1778, while New Bedford was burning, a large British force crossed to Fair-

92 Route 0. BOSTON TO NEW BEDFORD.

havftn, ipfpnt on its iloHtnirtion. Hilt Miijor Fmring of the militia, fearing iint,
nttacked an<l repulsed them aii<l saved the village.

W. of New HeiU'nrd are tlie large but thinly settled towns of Dartnioutli and
VVestpoii, on long inlets from the sea, and remote from railmads. These towns
(the A)r(inig!iMset and Acoal^set of the Indians) are nurseries <it sailors, and ha»ti
hut an inferior soil, which produces fair crops when manured hy nu-niuulen lish.
In nnv year (1H|;}) six seines otf Dartmouth show and helow I'adun-Arnni, caught
18,1011 barrels of these fish, whiidi sold for .'!()c. n barrel.

Railroad from Fairhaven to Tremont, on tln^ Cape ('oil II. H., see Route 6.

Steamers leave daily during llu; summer, for Martha's Vineyard. Upon leaving
the wlinrf, a line view is oidained of F.iiiliaven on tlie Iv, and of the long wharves
and ]topulous slopes of New Hcdford on tlu^ \V. Palmer's Island with its light-
hous(! and Fort I'lionix, is soon jtassed, and then the Ion;:, projecting Clark's
I'oint, with a strong Hirtress now in ]»roeess of construction. Tlie steamer
now jiasses straight to tlu' H. K. across Rnz/jirds Ray, a n(d)h( j'stuary ;{() M. long
by 10 M. wide, with thinly pojiulated shores. The Norsemen (lith century)
eallccl this Ray, Stranm Fiord ; tlie origin <>'' its jircsent name is not apparent.
Far to the !S. are seen the Rouml Hills, on tlie Dartmouth coast, and Cuttyhunk,
the outermost of the F,lizalK\th Islands. Cuttyhunk was colonizerl by Capt.
(lo.snold, in May, l(;i»2, with a company sent out by the Karl of Southamjiton.
He named tlu^ Island " Fllizabcth," in honor, probably, cd' the maidcji (^ueeii. The
island is 'If^ M. long, and at that time abounded in game, (iosncdd and his
people erected a fort and cabins on an islet in a po.id near the centre of (Jutty-
Iiunk, and here inaugurated the lirst settlement of New F.nghmd. Rut the
Indians were hostile and numerous, and tlu; colonist.s' sujiplies soon gave out ; so
within a few weeks the plan was aban<loned, and the people returned to England.
The island is now occupied by a nu-rry elul) of New-Vorkers, who spend their
summers in boating and fishing. On Penequcese Island (covering about 100 acres)
is the villa long occupied t)y ,John Anderson, of New York, who (in Ajiril, 1873)
gave the island and !j.'iO,000 in cash to Prof. Agassiz for thci location of a summer
school of zoology and sewnce connected with Harvard Univei-sity. Nashawena
(.'} M. long) is E. of Cuttyhunk, and beyond that is Pa.sciue Island. This is owned
by a New York club, who have built a club-hou.se, farms, and stibles, and i)repare(l
fruit and flower gardens, and jire.serves of small fish (or bait. The surrounding
waters abound in bass, blue-fish, squeteague, sword-flsh, &e. Next tn Pasque is
Naushon, 8 M. long, which was for many years the favtnite residence of James
Rowdoin, an early American diplomatist, whose mansifm was adonied by a large
library, jthilosophieal apparatus, and a fine picture-gallery, which he harl collected
in Eur()j)e. At his death he left all these things, together with the reversion of
Naushon, to Rowdoin College. Lady Wortley, who visited the island early in
this century, says, " Naushon is a little pocket America, a Lilliputian Western
world, a compressed Columbia."

Naushon was long inhabited by a Roston gentleman, and is said to be " stocked
with all the varieties of English and Scotch game-birds, and most of their game
inumals, including also several hundred American deer, prairie fowl," &c. Kettlo
and Tari)aulin Coves are well-known harbors, respectively on the N. and S. shores
of Naushon. Near the N. E. end of the island are the islets of Wepecket, Onka-
tomka, Nannamesset, and the Rjim Islands. Retween Naushon and the Falmouth
shore is the strait called Wood's Hole, a difficult and intricate passage between
Ruzzard's Ray and the Vineyard Sound. " The steamer stops at the village of
Wood's Hole, where there are several summer ]>oarding-houses. (See Route 7.)
After leaving this ]>oint, and passing N<d)sque Light on the 1., the steamer crosses
Vineyard Sound, and stops at the wharf at Martha's Vineyard (Route 7). Says
an Engli.sh touri.st: " What scenes can l)e more refreshing and exalting than an
exi)ansive view of the miglity waves, dotted here an<l there with such beautiful
islands as those in the Vineyard Sound"? While aquatic birds skim the waves,
and the gulls are screaming, dipping, and darting over a shoal of blue-fish, or
menhaden, vessels outward and homeward bound are always passing, for it in-
cludes in its range of view the packets and sailing-craft between New York and
Roston. We have here the foreground and perspective worthy of the pencil
of Claude Lorraine, while the background is formed of the granite shores of
Massachusetts."

.tl

PUOVIDEXCK TO WOUCRSTER. Route 10. 93

, fearing not,

rtiiiniitli and
Tlu'so towns

us, llinl IlilKl

•nJiailcii lisli.
\iani, cnuglit

Itoutft 6.
Upon loavinK
loiij; \vliaiv»\s
itli its linht-
I'tinj,' Clark's
Till! stranicr
ly :!() M. Ion;,'
itli ccnturv)
ot 'ipjiarcnt.
I Cnttyliunk,
vi\ Ity Cajit.
oiithani|>ton.
(iucrn. Th«
iiiold and liis
tn- of (Jiiity-
iid. lint till)
Kavc out ; so
I to England.
I spend their
Hit 100 acres)
1 April, 1H7:0
of a Huninier
Nasliawen.i
riiis is owned
and prepared
surround in;:;
tf) Pasque is
ice of James
d by a large
Imfl collected
reversion of
and early in
tian Western

be " stocked
f their game
■ &c. Kettlo
ind S. shores
ecket, Onka-
he Falmouth
age between
e village of
Jee Route 7.)
anier crosses
itt( 7). Says
ing than an
•h beautiful
n the waves,
blue-lish, or
ig, for it in-
w York and
I the pencil
te shores of

10. Providence to Worcester.

Via Prov. and Worcester U. U., 4:{ M., Fare $1.10.

The railroad follows the line of the Boston and Providence R. R. as far
us rawtuckct, and then turns up the valley of the lilackstone River. Sta-
tions, Pawtucket, Valley Falls, and Lon.sdale. At the latter i)lace the track
li:is.ses through a deep cut in Study Hill, to which William iJlack.stone,
tilt) tirst settler of Boston, retired after the Puritan immigration. \\.*i
lived here in the wihlerness from MV-W until his death, in 1<)75, surrounded
by his l)ooks, and deeply respected by the Indians. Tin; Inisy little river
i/iiich Hows by the hill was nanuid in his honor. After i)assing the
stations of Ashton, Albion, Manvillo, and Ilandet, the train stops at
Woonsooket {Central JiDU.se, Wnuntidcket Hotel), a. tliriving manufactur-
iii;,' town. Within a radius of 3 M. from tlie centre of the town are
2.'>,()U() iidiabitants. In tlie town itself, 4,*2()() ])ersons are engaged in
cotton-factories 2,400 in woollen-factories, and 700 in other manufactories,
in lJ>(Jy, the production of tiieso busy hands was reported as 43,000,000
yards of cotton cloth, ,'},3()(),000 yards of woollens and cassimeres, 100,000
grain-bags, 30 tons cotton-war}), 1,000 tons of soap. The celebrated
Harris cloths are made here. Jhe Social Mills have 43,000 sjiindlcs and
500 hands. The town has erected a neat monument '* in memory of her
brave .sons wlio, during the great llebellion, gave their lives that the
llepublic might live." Tiie Harris Institute is a i)0pular institution given
by Mr. Harris to the people, containing a large hall, and a library of
G,000 volumes. Woonsocket Hill, the highest land in the State, com-
mands a line view of the populous and busy valley.

Railroaflfl. — A branch road runs from Woonsocket to Milford, Mass. The
Wuoiisockci Division of tliv. New York and New England 11. It. terminates here,
wliile the main line of that road crosses the Worcester route at Waterford, or
Mill III ver Junction.

After passing Woonsocket, the train enters the State of Massachusetts.
Stations, Waterford, and Blackstone {Lincoln House), a busy manufac-
turing village of about 5,000 inhalntants. Millville is in the town of
Blackstone. Station, Uxbridge ( Wacantuck House), near which Major
Talcott, with his famous Hying army, attacked the Queen of Narragansett,
who had made a stand liere in a fortified position. After a battle of three
hours, the Queen and 34 of her warriors were killed, and 90 warriors
surrendered, only to be butchered in cold blood. Considerable manufac-
turing is done in the valley of the Blackstone, but the hills are occupied
by a population of wealthy farmers. Stations Whitins, Northbridge,
Farnum's, Saxmdersville, Sutton (with several ponds), and Millbury
{Millhury Hotel), a prosperous manufacturing town. A branch road from
this point runs N. to the Boston and Albany R. R. Shortly after leaving

04 Route It. PllOVIDENCK TO IIAHTFOHD

I ii

; t

Millbury, the truin i)asHUH, by the Grand Juuctioii, into the fitatiuu at
Worcester (see Koutc 21).

IL Providence to Hartford and Waterbory.

Viii TTartfor.l. ridvid.-iico. and Fishkill U. K. To Hurtfotd, UO M., furo !? 3.30.
To Watfibiiry, VIl^ M., lair, ^ \.\b.

After leiiving Providence the train passes the stations, Cranston, Oak
Lawn, Natick, lliverpoint, Quidnick, Anthony, VVashint,'t()n, Nipinuck,
Summit, and Greene. These are mostly manul'ueturinj^' villages in the
extensive town of Greene, and several of them are oeeu])ied by the large
factories of A. & W. Spragne. Shortly after leaving Greene the train
enters tlie State of Connecticut, and pa.sses the stations, Oneco, Sterlijig,
IMoosup, and IMainOeld. The latter station is in the Indian district of
Quiunibaug, which was bought liy Gov. Winthroj) in 1G51), and settled
by Massachusetts people. From the great (juantities of corn which it
produced, it was called in theeoloinal era the " Egypt of E. Connccti;,'ut."
At Plainfield the Norwich and Worcester U. II. crosses the line. After
l)assing the stations, Canterbury, Jewett City, Lovetts, Baltic, WaUlo's,
and S. Windham, tlie line crosses the New London Northern Division of
the Vermont Central R. R. at Willimantic (liraiiierd's Hotel). This is
a large manufacturing village, on the river of the same name, which falls
100 ft, in 1 M. E.vtensive threa<l, silk, and cotton mills are located on
the \vatei>-power thus afl'ordeil, occupying large factories built of stone
found in this vicinity. The Air Line R. R. between Boston and New
York passes through Willinuintic, which is beconnng a great railroad
centre. The only legend connected with Windham (in which town Wil-
limantic is situated) is of a long ])attle between two hordes of immigrat-
ing frogs, in which several hundred of the combatants were killed. This
event has been duly attested and described by a local poet in a Batrachy-
omachian ei)ic of 30 stanzas. The train now passes Andover, Bolton (near
which is Bolton Notch, a romantic pass into the valley of the Connecti-
cut), and Vernon. At Vernon a branch track (5 M.) runs to Rockville, a
})rospcrous manufacturing village on the water-power afforded by the
Ilockannon River. Beyond V^non is Manchester, which makes yearly
2,000,000 yards of gingham, PO'/.O pairs of socks, 450 tons of book-paper,
besides government and ban 5: note paper for several nations. From
thence a branch railroad (2^ M.) runs to S. Manchester, the seat of the
silk-works of the Cheney Brothers. After Manchester comes Burnside,
where paper-making was a brisk business in 1776, and where there are
now 3 paper-mills, whose yearly production is 300 tons of writing-
paper, 400 tons of manilla paper, and 600 tons of book-paper. The
next station is E. Hartford, with a wide, level street lined with elms,
2 M. long. This district was the liome of the Podunk Indians, whose

station at

ry.

, furo S 3.30.

nston, Oftk

Niiumuk,

.gcs in tlio

y the lui>,'e

) the train

I), Ster)inp,

district of

hikI Hctlh'tl

II which it

iiucctijut."

iue. Alter

i, Wuklo's,

)ivi.sion of

). Tliis is

wliich falls

located on

It of stono

aiid New

; railroad

own Wil-

iininigrut-

ed. This

Batrachy-

)ltoii (near

Conuecti-

ockville, a

I by the

CCS yearly

)ok -paper.

From

at of the

Burnside,

there are

writing-

Der. The

itli elms,

ns, whose

AND WATEUUUllY.

liouic u. 05

chief, Tutauimo, coidd hriiig 200 Iwwiiieii into the field. The tnihi now
croHses the hro.id ('oiiuecti<rut Uivcr and enters the city of llaidord (see
Koute'Jl). Connettions are made lu-rc with tiu; New llavcn, llartfonl,
and SprinKll«lil II. fl. (llonto "21 , for New York or Boston) ; also wtth the
Conn. Western (Kouto *2<)) and the Conn. Valley (Uoute 11) Railroads.
rri»ni Hartford the line runs liy Newinj^ton to New Britain (Sini'luiiui
i .tsc, Iliiiii/ihri'!/ House), a wealthy and w:)rking town. Th > water-snpply
is from a large reservoir some 2U() ft, above the villa;4e. In the centre of
the town is a spacious srjuare, adorned with trees and fountains, and near
its end is the elegant and imposing S. Cong. Church. In the same vicinity
is the State Normal School. The products of the industry of New
Britain are varietl and ex^ensi''". The Russel and Krwin (-o. employs 500
mi!!! in 5 acres of works, and sends out millions of dollars' worth of locks,
which are used in all parts of the world. Hardware, lice, hose, merino
goofls, gold jewelry, and knives are made here in large (^viantities.

Klihu Ilunitt, tlio " lea hum 1 hlacksiiiith," was lM)m at New Itritain In ISll. At
tilt' a;^t! of lU, lie was aiiiireiiticcil to ;i li'.acksiiiitli, and followeil that trade for
in:iiiy yeirs. Dc-iirin.,' to n-ad tlic^ Mihie in its (iii;,'iiial l.in,.cii;i;^'es, lie inusterecl tlio
Greek and Hebrew by oveainj^ stmlies, and aeijuired such a i)liili)l();^'iral taste,
tliat lio aflerwardd tiecaiiie I'aniiliar witli all the ithiieipal aiteieiit and niouern
taiiKuaj^es. He l)e('anie an einiest advocate i/f universal peace, teinperaiice, and
the abolition o;" slavery, ami published a paper and several txioks in tlei'etico of
these niovenieiits. Afttsr in ikin.; several visits to Europe, ho became U. SJ. Con-
sul at HinnMi^diaiii, where ho has since remained.

At Plainville, the next station, the New Haven and Northampton R. R.
(Uoute If)) crosses this route. Many carriages are made in this village.
At Forestville, Bristol, and Terryville stations are many large clockf<»o-
tories, where every variety of clocks are made. After passing several
flag stations, the train stops at Waterhury {Adams House, Scon'H's).
This is a small city (of 10,S2G inhabitants), on a narrow jilateau at
the Junction of the Mad ami Naugatuck Rivers. The jirincipal streets
diverge from Centre Stpiare, a small ]>ut well-kept Green, on which front
two Cong, churches, the new and elegant building of the City Hall, and
St. John's Episcopal Church. The latter is called the iinest church in
the State, and is built of granite and Ohio stone in the pointed Gothic
style. The sharply jiointed ceiling is highly ornamented, and the spire
(200 ft. high) uplifts a massive stone cross. The Silas Bronson Library,
the gift of a New York gentlemen, contains 13,000 volumes aud is free to
the citizens. On the hill near the St^uare is a large boarding-school for
young ladies.

The manufacturing interests of the city employ a capital of nearly
$ 8,000,000. I 2,000,000 are invested in the brass- works, besides which
there are 5 button-factories, 2 clock-factories, and works which turn out
great quantities of wire, steel traps, hooks and eyes, hoo]»-skirts, and
kerosene fixtures. The American Pin Co., the American Suspender Co.,

■9«

m \

96 noute 12. NEW LONDON TO VERMONT.

and the American Flask and Cap Co., liavc their works here. Silver-
j»lated ware is made in large quantities, also the best cjuality of steel
rolls.

There is a pleasant drive, iniK^li fif tlio way on ihe quiet and einliowered river-
road, ti) tlie Kiverside (Jcnietory (l.V M.), a small but ])i(tiires(]ue rural ground
iiiiiiiiij,' the. fonist-eovercd liills M. o. tlie Naii^'atiick River.

Al, Wntcrbiny the Nauj,'atuck K. H. coiiiici-ts with the Hartfi I, Provideuee,
and Fislikill line. The latter mad liiids lis teriuinns here, but work is ]iro{;^ess-
iii;4 on seet'ons passiii.i,' throu^li IIa\vlcy\ ill;'. Daiibury, and Bn-wster (N. Y.), to
Fish!ull, on tlie Hudson River. The river will probably be bridged, and a eon-
neetion made with the Erie Railroad, thus opening a new route between Boston
and tlie West.

12. New London to Vermont.

Via the New London Xf>rtherii Division of the Vermont Central Railroad, New
London to Br- *tleboro', 120 iJ.

The train leaves the Shore Line Station at New London. Beautiful
views of the broad and expansive Thantes on the E., so a seat sliould be
secured on the r. side of tiie car. Near Mohegan is the old Mohegan
reservation, where 824 In<lians of that tribe were numbered in 1774.
After passing Waterford, Montville, Massai)eag, ^^ohegan, and Thames-
ville, the train crosses the Yantic River, and enters Norwioh (* Waureyan
Jlonse, .S 2. 50 -,$3. 00, corner Main and Union Sts. ; Uncus Hotel, small,
near station; American House). Norwich is a city of 16,G53 inhab.
Avith its streets terraced on a steep accdivity facing to the S, over the
lake like Tliaine.s, of which a local writer claims that "not Riclmiond
Hill itself, or Greenwich observatory, looks on a Thames more fair."
The situation of the. city is indeed beautiful, being on high ground be-
tween the Yantic and Shetucket Rivers, which here unite to form the
Thames. The business ])art of Norndch is in a semicircle of which Main
St., from Franklin Scpiare to Central Wharf Bridge, is the ciiord, and
beyond this j,he residence-streets rise in terraced lines. Tlie banks, stores,
and hotels are mostly in the district between Main St. and the rivers.
The city and county buildings are neat and substantial, and there are
two or three fin 3 churches.

Washington St. and Broadway are noble avenues lined witli large
and secluded old mansions. The former street runs near the Yantic,
]>assing the ivy-cdad Christ Church (Epis.), and ends at Williams Park, or
the Parade, near wliich is the mansion of the Revolutionary General Wil-
liams, and the imposing building of tl'.e Free Academy. The latter is a
iiiixed school, of high grade and of a wide reputation. Turning to the 1.
from the Parade, Sachem St. (opposite the Academy) leads to a pretty
rural cemetery on the hills over the river. In this vicinity were the
Yantic Falls, whose praises have been sounded by Mrs. Sigoumey and
othei's, both in i)rose and verse. A deep cutting in the hard rock, and
curiously piled and water-worn boulders, are all that remain of "the

"w/mt

NEW LONDON TO VERMONT, Jioute 12. 97

ks here. Silver-
\. (juality of steel

1 emliowered river-
;s(]ue niral ground

rtl' 1, Providenop,
t work is vroKross-
trcwster (N. Y.), to
•ridged, and a ctm-
tc between Boston

tr?\l Railroad, New

3ndon. Beautiful
a seat should be
the oltl Mohegan
unheved in 1774.
::^an, and Thames-
ivioli(* Waureyan
ncas Hotel, small,
of 1G,G63 inhab.
to the S. over the
t "not llichniond
lames more fair."
high ground be-
unite to form the
■cle of which Main
is the chord, and
Tlie banks, stores,
•ii. and the rivers,
tial, and there are

lined with large
near the Yautic,
Williams Park, or

mary General Wil-
The latter is a
Turning to the 1.
k-ads to a pretty
vicinity were the

Irs. Sigoumey and
he hard rock, and

it remain of "the

beetling cliffs, the compressed channel, the confused nia-ss of granite, and
the roaring, foaming river," by which a former generation's "lone enthu-
siasts wandered and dreamed." The river ha.s l)een dammed and diverted
into an artificial channel, through which it a^ords a heavy water-power
to a large cluster of factories below. Fine wood-carving ;nachinery, rub-
ber goods, corks, iron pii)es, files, blankets anil carpets, Hax and twine,
paper, envelopes, and cotton goods are manufactured in Norwich and its
tributary villages. On Sachem St., near the site of the Falls, is a little
cemetery in a cluster of i)ine-trees. This si)ot was chosen centuries ago
as a sepulchral ground for the " blood royal of Mohegan," and ha« been
carefully reserved Vjy the' tribe ever since. Many of the Grand Sachems
are buried here, from those earlier chiefs of whom earthly history has no
record down to Mazeen, the last of the line, who was buried in 1826 in
the presence of 25-30 of the feeble remnant of the tribe. In the centre
of the ancient monuments stands a massive obelisk erected to the memory
of Uiicas. (Its foundation-stone was laid by President Jackson.)

Uneas was a chi* f of ilie Pccjuot tribe, who revolted in 16.'{4 against the Sachem
Sassacns, and joined the Moliegans. He was chosen Sacliei.i of the latter tribe,
and by sagai'ious alliances with tlie English cohtnists, he steadily increased the
] lower of his jteoj^e, who had jireviously held a subordinate position among the
aboriginal clans. He led his warriors l)y the side of th(! colonial train-bands in
the campaign of KW?, wliich annihilated Ids most dreadeil foe, the Pecpiot tribe ;
and in 1(34:{, Ic fought tip; jjowerful Narragansetts until the Atigh)-Mohegau
forces, under his direetion, luul defeated and humbled th.it trib :. He repelled an
invasion of the Western In<lians, aided l»y a strong Mohawk contingent, in ItMS,
and kept up an incessant war upon his Indian neiglibors until he became "tlie
most powerful and jirosi)erous j)rince in New England." In 1G40 he ceded to tlie
colony of Conn, all his land except a tract on the W. shore of the Thames eni-
liraeing three or four townships, and sold (for £70) tlie i)re.sent site of Norwi(di,
which was occupied in IHCiO by a nomadic church fmn; Saybrook. He frecinently
visited the colonial caititals, Boston and Hartford, and ever remained friendly to
the settlers, holding his people to iieac(;;'ul Wi vs while every other tril)e of New
Engl.md (e-xcei)t the Christian Indians) joined King Philip's league against tlio
colonies. xVfter reigning as Sachiim of J.he Mohagans for nearly ;'<0 years, he died
in 108;<, a c(»ns'stent Pagan to the last. He was crafty, cruel, and rapacious in
his policy ; but as the head of a savage people, he was sagacious ami far-sighted,
and as a military leader he was skilful and fearless. It is diHleult to tell what
would have been the course of New England history, or wliat linal and over-
whelming disasters might have blotted out those feeble colonies along the coast,
had not the tw.i gi-eat southern tril»es been ruined by the attacks (sometimes
aided by a few dozen English musketeers) of the Mohegans uniler tlu'ir Sachem,
Uncas. Beyond the viHage of (ireenville is Sachem^s Plain (IJ-vJ M. from
Norwich. Horse-cars most of the way). Here was fought a battle between Ali-
antonomoh and UOO Narragansetts, and Uncas with &00 Moliegans.

Miantonomoh was the ncpliev- of Canonicus, and in Ui'M sui-ceeded to the gov-
ernment of the Narragansetts. He was ever a lirm friend to tlje colonists, grant-
ing them a large portion of the present 8tate of Khode Island, an<l leaving his
quarrels with Uncas to their arbitration, in 1()42 he went to Boston to meet
certain men who had accused him of planning hostilities against the eolonie*.
He awaited his accusers in the presence of the Governor and council of Massa-
chusetts, but no charges were preferre<l against him, and he left Boston after re-
ceiving higl' honors from Gov. SVintliro]», who admired his character. In the
following year, stung to madness by insults oll'ereil by Uncas, iie led itOO Narra-
gansett warriors in an attack on Mohegan. Uncas and ."JO!) men met him on
Hachem'a Plain, and in accordance with a plan preconcerted by the Mohegan

5 a

98 Route 12. NEW LONDON TO VERMONT.

1 )

r \

chiefs, invited him to a parley. Whilo this parley was going on, and the Narra-
gansetts were oil" their guard, the Moho^uiis made a llerce and sudden att'ick and
scattered them in all directions. Tin; ])ursuit was couLiniied for many miles, and
hundreds of the invader.-; fell, bat Miant<momoli was eaptiwed and led prii;oner to
Hartford. Alter remaining here in close oonllnement, he was surrendered to Un-
ca.s, by whom, "by the advice and con.sent of the English magistrates and elders,"
ho was executed. The royal Narragausett was carried by Uncas and his warriors
from Hartford to Norwicli, and was put to death on the battle-lield of 'Sachem's
Plain, at a jdace now marlied by a stone monument inscribed " Miar tonojnoh,
104:5." He was a brave, magnanimous, and humane Sachem, incapable of dissim-
ulation or treachery, and tlieretnre he i)ecame their victim.

For numy years his people came hither iu the sea.sou of flowera and adorned his
grave, each of them leaving a stone ui>on it. The lofty cairn thus formed re-
mained till a farmer (of the English " Hodge" type) carried away the stones to
make a foundation for a new barn. In ISll, the present granite monument was
erected.

Nanunteno, the son of Miantonomoh, p.nd his successor in the government,
ever cherished a ju.st hatred of the colonists, and joincil King I'hilip's league with
eidhnsiasm. Flaving been made prisoner, in 1(J7(5, he was oll'ered pardon in case
he would treat with the English. On dcidining t'> make terms, he was threatened
with instant deatli, whereui)on he answered, " I like it well ; I sliall die before my
heart is soft, or I have spoken anything unworthy of my.sclf" ; "acting herein,"
says Cotton Mather, "as if, by a Pythagorean metempsychosis, some old Roman
ghost had possessed the body of this Western Pagan, like Attilius Ileg'.".us." He
was instantly shot.

About 5 M.S. of Norwich is the old fortress of Uncas, on the highest liill in
Mohegan, and in the vicinity live the few hair-l)rceds wlio are all that remain of
the tribe of Uncas. President Dwight's remark alxmt tlie I'etinots /^ Groton will
apply ecpially well to the Mohegaiis or to the Narragansetts in ' bti s ' wn, R. I.,
" the former proud, heroic spirit of the Pequot is siirunk into ihe ^ uacness and
torjior of reasoning brutism."

Steamers leave Norwich every morning, in summer,for New London and Watch
Hill. The Norwich and Worcester R. R. diverges to the N. E., above the city.

After leaving Norwicli the line passes the stations Norwich Town, Yan-
tic, Franklin, and Lebanon. Tl'.e village of Lebanon, ';'tuated iu a ricli
farming district, was very lively during the War for independence. Jon-
athan Trumbull, Governor of Conn. 1709-83, resided here, and here was
tlie War Office of the State, which furnished more men and money in the
Revolutionary War than any other State save Massachusetts. Gov.
Trumbull was Washington's right-hand man during the northern cam-
paigns, and when any perplexing question or pressing demand arose, the
iiobl; Virghiian would often say, **Let us see what Brother Jon.itlian
says." The name "Brother Jonathan" has passed into imiversal ^t jw
a humorous designation of the U. S., corresponding to the "John
which is applied to England. At the gubernatorial mansion in Lcb;.i! t7
Trumbull received Washington, Lafayette, Rochambeau, Jeffcrsoa,
Franklin, and otlier distinguished men. Five French icgiments were can-
toned in the town and reviewed by the conmiander-in-chief, while De
Lauzion's Legion (500 horsemen) wintered here. The Trumbull man.sion |
and W^ar Ollice are still standing, and in the little cemetery E. of the vil-
lage is the family vault.

The most i>rominent of the Tmmbulls are Jonathan, Clov. of Conn. 17G0-S3 ;
Jcmathan, his son, M, C. in 1789-95, U. S. Senator in 1795-0, and Governor inl
1798 -ISUO : Josepii, another son, commissary -general of the Continciital Army J

NEW LONDOy TO VERMONT. Route 12. 99

and the Narra-
niacu attack an«l
luiiny niil03, and
id led prisoner to
iiTcndercd to Un-
rates and elders,
; and his warnors
-held of "^aeholn•a

I " Miar tononioh,
capaVde of dissim-

i-s and adorned his
ti thus formed re-
way the stones to
tp monument was

II the government,
•hilip's leagiie with
.re.l pardon in case

he was threatened
'shall die before my
'• "acting herein,
is, some old Roman
ilius lleg'Aus.' lie

n the highest hill in
e all that remain ot
;-nots AUrotoiiwiU
a . bnv s 'wn,K. 1-.
,0 i-Lie. . Jii^ness and

.w London and Watch
E., above the city.

ovwicli Town, Yan-
, nHuated in a rich
ulepenelence. Jon-
heve, and here was
u and money in the
.ssachusetts. Gov.
the northern cam-
y demand arose, the
\ Brother Jonathan
iito universal -; iw
to the "John "^ •"
uar.siou in Leb..i> f'
ambeau, Jefferson,
logiments were can-
ler-in-chief, while De
.e TrmnhuU mansion
"nietery E. of the vil-

r.ov of Conn. 17G0-S3:
;;;r-:G. ai.d Governor m
the Coi'.tiuv.-iita). Arm) .

J(»3eph, gramlson of " Brother. Tonathan," 5 year^ M. C, and 2 years Gov. of Conn. ;
Lyman Truiiibull (born near Lebanon in 181:0. tin- r.nlnent jurist and U. S. Sena-
tor from Illinois, lS.jr>-7'J ; and Col. .John Trumbull (some time of the 1st Conn.,
and afterwards aide to W.ishin;;ton), who studieil i)aintin'? un<lcr West, in Lon-
don, and executeil many lar.^'e historical pictures, depii'ting scones of the Ucvoli:-
tion'ary era. Four of his works arc in tlie rotunda of the N'ational Capitol, and a
^'ood collectiim of his paintings is in th > Athenanuu at Hartford. The Art Gal-
lery of Yale College has a large number of his minor works, 57 in all.

The line nov leaves tlie Yantic Valley, runs along the border of the
Shetucket, and, passing S. Windham, stops at Willimantic (see Route 11 ).
At this point the Hartford, Providence, and Fishliill, and the New York
and New England tracks cross the New London Northern Railroad.

Running N. from Willimantic, the line follows the Willimantic River,
through the county of Tolland. Stations, S. Coventry, Eagleville (with
large sheet'ug manufactories), and MansfieM, with four companies engaged
in making sewing-silk, a profitable industry wliich was inaugurated here
in the last century. Stations, Merrow, S. Willingtoii, anil Tolland, about
i M. W. Oj" which is a scrpie.stered village containing the modest county
buildmgs. Stafford is oi'le>)nitcd for its mineral springs, the principal
one being among the best of chalybeate springs. It contains coiisiderablo
iron in solution, with carbonic acid and natron, and is a pleasant water to
the taste. It is held to be very efficacious in all cutaneous aiTections.
The other spring, which is charge. I with hydrogen gas and sulphur, has
become choked up, and has long been disused. The Indians were in tho
habit of using these w-aters with beneficial effect, and the wliites began to
visit the springs about 110 years ago.

The Stafford Springs House is a large and inexpensive hotel near tlie
chalybeate spring, on the 1. of the track. > , ,

The train now runs N. for 10 M, across the sparsely populated town of
Stafford, and at State Line it enters the State of Massachusetts. The
town of Monson is ne.xt crossed (11 M.). Much manufacturing is done
here along a branch of the Chicopee River, and a fine granite cpiarry is to
be seen near the central station, from which great quantities of stone have
been sent to Albany for the new State House. The e.xtensive buildings
of the State Almshouse are in tliis town.

Station, Palmer, where this loute crosses the great trunk line of tho
Boston and Albany R. R. (Route 21).

The Ware River R. R., which is to run via Barre to Peterboro, N. IF., is com-
pleted from Palmer to Gilbcrtville .ind Ware.

Tlic soil of Ware is singular, even in New England, for its hardness and ster-
ility. It was granted to a comiwMy of the veterans of King l'hili])'s War, but
after due examination they sold it for 2 cents an acre. Presi<lciit l>wi]Ldit rode
tlirough Ware, and said of its soil, " It is like self-righteousness, the more a man
has of it the poorer he is." The poetic account of the genesis uf Ware asserts
that

" Dame Nature once, while makinp land,
\, • Ilad refuse left of stone and Miind ! ,

:' She viewed it well. tl. on throw it down \ » •_ '■

■: Between Cov's Hill aii.l BolehertDwn,

li And Buiil, ' You paltry stutf. lie there.

And iii:\k(' a town niifl imU it W:ire.'"

100 Jimtte 12. NKW LONDON TO VERMONT.

•■ ^' T

Stations, Three Rivers (near wliicli the Cliicopee Rive- is crossed), Bar-
rets, and Rclcliertowu {Belcher Hmise), a (jniet hill-town of llampsliire
Connty, who3e present name is scarcely an improvement on its original
appellation (in the colonial era) of Cold Spring.

From Tlirce Rivers the AtlKil and EtificM R. R. runs thrmi^^li the sparsely
poimlafed towns of Knfield, Greeiiwirli, Dana, and New Halein (all tlie villages hy
the railroa<l have small inns) to Athol {,Vo M. I'runi rainier) on the Vt. and Mass.
II. R. (see Route 25).

After running across Belchertown (13 M.) the train passes S. Amherst
and stops at

Amherst {Amherst Hotel, $2.50 a day, A M. from the station), a
pretty village situated in a romantic district, and distinguished for
its college. Its society is of that ciiltiired and reiined order which is
usually found in American acadei ac towns, and its lesthetic taste is seen
in the line anihitecturc of its churches (notahly Grace Church and the
1st Congregational), The buildings of Amherst College (founded in
1821) are located on a hill on the edge of the village to the S. On the
street W. of the buildings are the President's House, the Library, and
College Hall. The curious octagonal structure with a bright blue dome,
which stands in advance of the line of college lialls, is devoted to the dis-
play of rare collections. Part of it is occupied by the Lawrence Observ-
atory, and on the npper story are the great * cabinets of minerals and
meteorites prepared and collected by Prof. C. U. Shepard, a disciple of
Silliman, who has been for the last 45 years one of the leading physicists
of America. These collections " are only surpa.ssed by those of the Brit-
i.sh Museum and the Imperial Cabinet at Vienna. " They represent an
immense value, some single pieces having cost thousands of dollars. The
largest ruby in the world is .shown here, being 2 ft. high by 1 ft. in diam-
eter. It was foiuid in N. Carolina. A sapphire, in the cabinet, weighs
30 lbs., and many other rare and costly specimens are here preserved.
On the lower floor is Wood's Cabinet of geology and palaeontology, em-
bracing over 20,000 specimens. The Nineveh Gallery opens out of Wood's
Cal)inet, and contains many Oriental and Indian relics, together with a
collection of rare c^his and medals. Along the walls of this room ary
arranged a succession of large * Assyrian sculptures from the palace of
Sardanapalus, at Nineveh. E. of this building is the line of the older col-
lege-halls, N. College, the old Chapel, and S. College. These are in the
early Novanglian architecture, and closely resemble the older halls of
Harvard. At the S. end of this line is the Aiii)leton Cabinet, whose up-
per story, surrounded by barbarous frescos, contains several collections!
embracing 5,900 species of animals and 8,000 species of shelis, preparet
by Prof. Adams, of Amherst, the conchologist An Herbarium (in thtj
same hall) contains 4-5,000 kinds of plants, while .seeds, lichens, &o.J
are arranged in other cabinets.

NEW LONDON TO VERMONT. Route 12. 101

s crossed), "Par-

i of Hampsliive

on its origiiuil

Mi^h the sparsely

(all tlie villages 1.y

the Vt. aud Mass.

asses S. Amherst

1 the station), a
aistiuguisiied for
(1 order wliich is
hetic taste is seen
:e Church an<l tlie
Liege (founded iu
;o the S. On the
, the Library, and
bright i)lue dome,
devoted to the dis-
e Lawrence Observ-
ts of minerals aud
yard, a disciple of
li leading physieists
,y tiiose of the Brit-

They represent an
uds of dollars. The
gh by 1 ft. i" ^^i^^"'-
°the cubhiet, weighs

are here preserved.

d palifiontology, em-

- opens out of Wood's

lies, together vith a
.lis of this room are.
from the palace oC
J line of the older col-
j.. These are in the
e the older halls of
n Cabinet, whose up-
iis several colleetions
es of shells, prepared
u Herbarium (iu the
le seeda, lichens, kc,

On the lower floor is a hall 110 ft. long by 45 ft. wide, whevein are kept

9,000 specimens of ancient tracks in stone. This wonderfid *colliM-tii)U

is by far the largest in the world, and well illustrates the science of iili-

nology which first arose at Amherst. The tracks of birds, beasts, and

reptiles, which have been dead perhaps a myriad of years, and the marks

of the pattering of rain-storms which fell through the silent air of pns-

historic ages, are here preserved on the sandstone of the Connecticut

valley.

Edward Ilitchcock, T>. D., the founder of ichnolorjieal scionee, was bom at
Deertield, Mass., in 170.'5. He was eonnected with Amherst CoUejje, either as
professor or i)resident, from 18iJj to 18'j4, and pliniitid and executed the geological
s'liTey of Mass., "the lirst survey of an entin; Stati' under tlie authority of gov-
cmmcnt in the world." Ife puhlisherl 20-2.J volumes, mostly on geological snh-
jects, of which the " Klenientiirj' Geology" and the "Ueligiou of Geology"
pa.ssed through many editions in Aiiierica and England. "Tlie Ichnology ^^x
New England," iiubiished by the HUitc in ISOS, illustrated aud exi-lained tin)
branch of science which he founded.

E. of a line of old dormitoricg is a verdant lawn covered with trees, at
the farther end of whicli is E. C ullege, which is soon to be taken down on
accoimt of its insecurity. Tliis building completely hides the new and
elegant * Memorial Chapel, whose exterior is a beautiful model of Gotliic
architecture. It is cruciform in shape with finely finished rose-windows
in the transept, and colonettes of polished Scotch granite at various point.-j
on the outside. Tlie graceful spire is built (as well as the Chapel walls)
of stone, and within the tower is a marble tablet, containing the nanu's
of the alumni and past students of Amherst who fell in the War for tlio
Union. From the E. side of the chapel is obtained a pleasing view of the
rich valley E. of Amherst. The Bivret G/mnasiuiu is near the E. Coller",
and the N. side of the prospective quadrangle is occupied by two fine
stone buihb'ngs; the Walker Hall, a tasteful and ornate structure sur-
mounted by a 3pired observat^yry, and fronted by an elegant portico,
formed by five Gothic arches supported on coupled columns ; and the
"Williston Hall, a substantial stone building. Before leaving the College
Hill, the College Tower should be ascended for the sake of tl)e * viev/,
•which is one of the mo.st beautiful in New England, extending over \k\y\a
of the rich Conn, valley and over the rugged and picturesciue towns of
eastern Hampshire. (Stereoscopic views taken from the tower in nini
directions, as well as of the college buildings, are sold at a store in the
village.) On the opposite side of Amherst, and about 1 ]\I. from the Green,
is the Massachusetts Agricultural College. Its handsome buildings are
on the edge of a rich plain, from which fine views are obtained of the
mountains on the W. and S. On the experimental farm of 400 acres is
the Durfee Plant-House, where many rare and valuable plants are
preserved. The " Aggies " (as the students here are called by the other
New England collegians) are drilled to a high state of discipline (infantry

I
I

f'-J

. ;i

' 1

M 1

f ,,

' ;t

' I

102 /2o«<c 12. NEW LONDON TO VERMONT.

and light artillery) by luilitury instructors; and of sucli a naturo is the
liekl-work, that, sincy its ostablisliniunt in 186G, this has beconio tho
best agricultural school in America.

Excursions from Anihorst to Norwottuck Hill (4 M,), Northampton
(7 M.), Mounts Holyoke, Tom, and Sugar-Loaf, aro easily madf. 2 M. E.
of the R. li. station is th(^ Orient Springs IJealth Institute, a large, ([uiet
hotel on a far-viewing and seipiestered hill. Salubrious mineral springs
aro in the vicinity.

Beyond Amlierst are the stations N. Andierst and Leverett. The latter
is situated in the midst of very picturcscpie scenery. On the W. is Mount
Mettawampe (or Toby), the highest peak in the lower Connecticut valley.
The line now passes through Montague, with the Hunting Hills on the E.
Stations, S. Montague and Miller's Falls, where the Vt. and Mass. R. R.
(Route 25) crosses the y>]\ .cut route. Stations, Northfield Farms and
Northfield {yortltjidd Ilottl), a charming village with broad, ipiiet streets,
built on a plateau above the broad alluvial intervales along the Conn.
River This peaceful agricultural town was settled in 1673, on the Indian
lands called Sipiawkeague. During Iving Philip's War frequent and
'^orce attacks were made upoi; it byl!ie Indians, and troops conveying
supplies were ambushed and cv.t to pieces. When Major Treat, with his
" Hying army " of Conn, soldiers reached the place, its people evacuated
it, an(^ passed, under his escort, to a place of safety. It was reoccupied
in loSo, but Indian attacks soon compelled the decimated settlers to leave,
and it lay desolate until 1712, wlien the erection of Fort Dumnier afforded
sure defence. The station-house at S. Vernon {Mcrrirs llolel) is on
the boundary-line between Vermont and Massachusetts. The broad
intervales and the (juiet stream of the Connecticut River are crossed be-
tween Northlield and Vernon.

At S. Vernon a coniieetion is made with the Ashuelot Railroad, wliieli passes
the staticiii-;, Hinsdale, Ashuelot, Winchester, Westfonl, and SSwanzey (^all in New
Hanii)shire), and at Keeue (■onne<'ts with the Cheshire Railroad. Hinsdale was
settled by Mass iienple in l()S;i, and was the site of Hinsdale's and Rridgnian'a
Forts. Throng. .out the early border-wai-s it was the scene of mnnerons attacks
•and skirmishes, t)ut was boldly lieM as the outpost of colonial civilization. Hin.s-
dale is now a prosperous town, thnm^ih which the Ashuelot River flows to the
Connecticut. From M hie Mt., a few years a.qo, volcanic sii,'ns were seen, and a
hiva-like sub.staiice was thrown out. An ancient Indian fort is situated on a lull
near the river, and isolated from the jilateau Ity adecj>, broad treneh. VVinidiester
was grantini by, aiul settled from, IVlass. in 17:i:}, under tlie name of Arlington, and
was totiUly destroyed by an Indian attack in 1745. bwanzey is a large and thinly
populated town, settled under the .^ame circumstances, and destroyed ul the same
time as Winchester.

At IS. Vernon the Conn. River Railroad from Springlield ttirminates.

From S. Vernon the New London Northern track runs N. about 9 M.
through the town of Vernon (seats on the r. side of the car command a
view of the fertile intervales of the Connecticut, and of the river itself).
Tliis is one of the oldest towns of Vermont, and scores of its early set-

N':*Y LONDON TO VERMONT. fioute 12. 103

naturo is the
IS becoiuo tho

, Northampton
luiuh". 2 M. E.
, a huge, ([MU'X
luincrul »\n'uv^^

■ett. The hatt(!r
he W. is Mount
mecticut valley.
; ilills on the M
in<l Mass. R. R.
it'kl Farms and
ul, (Hiiet streets,
ilong the Conn.
f3, on the Indian
ir frefiuent and
roops conveying
I- Treat, with his
people evacuated
, was reoccnpied
settlers to leave,
Dunnner afforded
'irs Hotel) is on
t'lS. The broad
are crossed be-

■oad, which passes
[\v:in/.t'v uill in New
l:i(\. Hinsdale was
's and Ih-idgmau's
nuiuevous attac'ks
•ivilization. Hins-
lUver lluws to the
were seen, and a
situateil on a hill
k'neh. Winithester
of Arlington, and
a large and thinly
;troyed at the same

liinutes.

Is N. about 9 M.
car command a
the river itself),
of its early set-

Thcnext station is Brattleboro*,

Hers were killed by the liostile Indians.
rj'» M. from New Lon<lon.

Hotels. - /Jroo),.'} Ihiise, tlie best in Vennnnt, nceotninodatinjr 175 - 200 gnpsts,
$3-:t.5(> a day; lUoftlchnro' Ilntise (near the station), S'2-'2.M a day; Revere
Jloiisf ; tlie I'urk llmisi; (near tlif Paik '. and tli" U'<:--isi'lh()i\ft llmise (loundod in
ISl') hy a (Jennan water-eiire piiysician) are iar^e hotels lor sinniner visitors.

In 17-1 the i.eijislatiu.-. of Ma-.s. had a rmt. hiult near the river ami about 1 M.
H. of lln' ju'eseiit village. This I'mt, eallrd l-urt DuninnT, \v;is garrisnncd by
troops of the eolniiy and frienilly Indians, and served as a shield fur the river-
towns. Though often attacki'd, it wa-^ iii'vcr Inst. 'I'he lirst settlement in tin*
State was located here under the ]ir(itection of the fort, and but two or three
small villages were established in the tS. part until the eonipiest of Canatln, after
whieh, from ITOit io 17GS, i:),S townships were granted in Vermont. In \7M, the
vdlage near Kort Duinmer was named Hrattleborough, in honor of Col. lirattle, a
«lisiinguishe(l Bostonian, who was one of iis proprietors.

Brattleboro' is a large village well and compactly built, at the junction
of Whetstone Brook (whicli alTords a considerable water-power) with tho
Connecticut. The location of the village is beautiful, being on an uneven
plateau above the great ^-iver, am' surrounded by lofty hills. Main St.,
the princii»al thoroughfare, is near ami parallel to the river, and 100 ft,
above it. The Rrook, with its numerous factories, is near the station, in
the S. of the village. A beautifid view of Brattleboro' and its moimtain-
ampitlicatro is enjoyed from Cemetery Hill, an eminence ju.st S. of the
town. The opposite side of the river is filled by tho dark and fro\vuing
mas.ses of Mine and Wantastiquet Mts. At the N. end of the village is a
pretty park, on the edge of the jdateau, whence a channing view of tho
mountains is gahied, while the placid river is seen gliding between its
broad an<l fertile intervales. Below the park, in the valley, is the Ver-
mont Asylum for the Insane, a well-conducted institution, connected with
which is a farm of GOO acres, which is carried on by the inmates of the
Asylum. From various points (back of St. Michael's Church, kc.) on the
riverward side of the plateau, pretty views of the river and Wantastiquet
Mt. are obtained.

Daniel Webster was a fre(iuent visitor to Brattleboro', and at jiresent it is the
home of Holbrook, the War-Liovernor of Vermont, and (Jen. J. W. Phelps, a vet-
eran of the Mexican and 8eee.ssion Wars, who first enlisted and disciplined ne-
groes in the armies of the Union. Among tho.se born here were Wilbur Fisk.
the Methodist divine, who twice refused a bishopric, and was I'ri-sident of Mid-
dletown University, 18;i0-:v.); R. M. Hunt, the architect; W. M. Hunt, the
painter of <jvnrc pictures ; and Larkin G. Mead, the sculptor, who, while yet a
Uiere lad, worked one long winter night on a snow-liguro at the head of Main St. ;
and on the next morning (New Year's) the citizens were startled to see there a
statue of the "Recording Angel" ni Hlellod in i)ure.st smnv. From that time hia
success has Ixjen of rapid growth, and now for several years he has lived and
worked in Itidy.

In W. BrattlelM)ro' ((Jlen House, Vermont House) is the Glenwood Seminary, in
V ivnantii' site (stages three times daily).

A oridge crosses tlie river here, and a road runs into hilly Hinsdale, N. of which
is the picturesque town of Chesterfield (N. H.), from whose level uplands much
corn aiid hay is obtained by unwearied labor. Si)ofrord'3 Lake, in Chesterfield
(10-12 M. from Brattleboro'), is a beautiful sheet of water 8 M. anmnd, said by
Ilowells to i)ossess natural charms equal to those of the Italian lakes. On an
island in its waters are the remains of an ancient Indian settlement.

I
i

111-

') '

104 RmiUlS.

NORWICH 10 NASHUA.

Brattleboro' is tho centre of a great net-work of staKc-Iines. Daily stages nin
tnOuilfonl (7-10 M.); to Xowfaiie (12 M.), the county-se^it ; to Town.sheiKl (17
M.). Tri-weckly lines run to l)over(17 M.)autlWar(IslH»ro'('Jt M.)- More(xt«'ii(lf(l
routes are those to iShelbiime FuUs (Mass.) via Halifax (cascades on North Uivcr,
and Dnn's Den, 2') ft. long, f) ft. wide and high, in solid rock) in 27 M. ; to Shel-
bum Falls (45 M.) via Whitingham, in which arc the Hadawga Springs, with a
hotel, near Kadawga Lake, in whose vicinity, in a i)oor log-luit, the hcresiarch
Jlrighani Yonng was born in I.SOI. .Since 1S14 he has been prophet and president
of the Monnons, who moved (1846-7), un<ler his guidance, from Nanvoo into tiie
■Western wildeniess, anJ founded the Hourisldng colony of Deserct on the shores
of the tireat Salt Lake of Ukib ; to (irccnheld {'.Vl M.) via Halifax ; to N. Adams
via Whitingham (45 M.) ; to 15enningt<m via Wilmington, (4<i M.), jiassing tlirough
the thinly settled mountain towns of Marlboro,' Wilmingtoii, Searsburg, and Wooil-
ford ; to Bennington via Somerset (50 M.) : to Arlington via Stnitton (page 185)
in 46 M. ; to Manchester via Jamaica in 45 M. Direct connections (in time) are
not made on all these lines.

From Brattleboro' the Vermont Central Railroad runs N. to Montreal, Quebec,
and upper Vermont (Route 20).

13. Nor<vich to Nashna.

Via Norwich and Worcester, and Worcester and Nashua Railroads. Distance,
106 M., fare, $3.55.

Norwich to Putnam, see Route 19. Station, Tlioinpson (good liotol), a
pretty village 1 M. from the station, mucli resorted to in .summer, and
abounding in neat villas. Stations, Grosvenordale, N. Grosvenordale,
Wilsondale, after ■which the train crosses to Webster, in Masp. {Joslin
House, Sheldon flotose). In this vicinity is a great, islund-studded pond,
which enjoys two names, — Cliabonakongkomon and Cliargoggagoggniun-
choggagogg. About this lake were the Elysian Fields of the Nipmuck
Indians and the reputed home of the Great Spirit. A small community
of the Nipmucks still remains here, supported by the bounty of the State.
Both at Webster and N. Webster are large manufactories. Station, Ox-
ford, a pretty village, on the Indian lands called Mancliarge. 2 M. S. E.
of the station is Fort Hill, bearing the remains of a bastioned fort built
by a community of French Huguenots who settled here in 1683. 13
years later, an Indian irruption so alarmed them that they abandoned
the place, and lived in Boston for many years. Oxford Centre has large
shoe manufactories, and several cotton and woollen mills are in the town.
Station, Auburn, then Worcester Junction, and Worcester, where the
passenger for Nashua changes cars.

Connections are also made at this point with the Worcester and Fitchburg R.
R., and with trains for Boston and Lowell. Passengers for Springfield and Al-
bany, or Providence, should change cars at Worcester Junction.

The line runs N.

Stations, W. Boylston, Oakdale (Oukdale House),
through

"Rich and rural Worcester, where throueh the calm repose

Of cultured vales and fringing woods the gentle Nashua flowa."

From sterling Jtmction the Worcester and Fitchburg track runs oflf to
Fitchbui^(14M.).

Daily stngefl nin

n Tiiwnsht'iid (17
). McmMXtfiKlcil
* on North Uivcr,
II 27 M. ; tr) Shrl-
X Hi>rinx«, with a
it, the hcrcsiurrh
ln't and iiit'sitlt'iit
I Niuivoo into tlio
ret on tho shores
lax ; to N. Atl.iins
I, jtassing tlirouj^'h
isl)urg, and Wood-
nitton (l>aj,'(' 1X5)
ons (in time) are

Montreal, Quebec,

roads. Distance,

ti (good hotel), a
in suminer, and

Grosvenordale,
in Masr, {Joslin
d-studdcd pond,
irgoggagoggnuin-
Df the Nipniuck
mall coninuuiity
iy of the State.
Station, Ox-

ge. 2 M. S. E.

ioned fort built

re in 1683. 13
hey abandoned

Centre has large

are in the town.

ster, where the

nd Fitchburg R.
)ringfield and Al-

e line runs N.

J - - -

flows."
ack runs off to

NORWICH TO NASHUA.

Jioiitc 11. 105

After passing the Waushaccuni Ponds on the 1. an<l the Tlinton Ponds
on each side of the track, the busy manufacturing town of Clinton (Clin-
ton House) is reached, where the line is crossed by the Boston, Clinton,
and Fitchburg R. R. Stations, S. Lancaster, and Lancaster (Lancaster
House), an old and pleasant village, near whicli is the State Industrial
School for Girls. The village was attacked in 1076, by 5 bodies of In-
dians. 42 of the people took shelter in Rev. Mr. Rowlandson's house,
wliich was set on fire after a two houra' siege, and 22 of its defenders
were killed, the other 20 being nia<lo prisoners. Stations, Still River, and
Harvard {Ilan'ard Hotel), a picturescpie highland village, near a lake
which is 3 M. around, and N. of which are the deep and se<iuestered Hell
Pond and Robbhis Pond. A considerable Shaker community is settled
ia the N. E. part of the town. Harvard Centre is 2 M. E. from the sta-
tion (stages run freriuently).

Groton Junction (see Route 2.')). Tlie next statloii is Groton Centre,
a pretty village in a country of hills and lakes. It was attacked hi 1676,
by the Sachem Monoco at the head of 400 Indians, and 40 houses and the
church wero burnt, though the people repulsed all attacks from their ref-
uge in 4 garrison-houses. This same sachem boasted to the V-esieged that
he was marching on Concord and Boston, to destroy those to)vns. With-
in a year he was indeed in Boston, but as a captive, led through the
streets with a rope around his neck, and afterwards hung on the Com-
mon. Hon. G. S. Boutwell, Gov. of Mass., 1851-3, and Sei^retary of
the U. S. Treasury, 1869-73, Avas for many years a mercliaut in this
town. Groton is the seat of Lawrence Academy.

Stati>^n, Pejiperell {Prescott House ; the village is across the N'a.shua
River, W. of the station), a town named after Sir Wm. Peppen il, tho
first New England baronet, by its first pastor, who was a chaplain in his
Louisburg expedition. S. W. of the village is the curious hill called
" The Throne," while to the N. are the picturesque Hills of Missitisset.
This is a quiet village with an old cliurch, wliose bell, according x.o an old
New England custom, tolls out the number of the letters in the name,
and of years in the age, of each villager when he or she dies.

In the graveyard near by is a pretty marble monument from Itily. Otherwise
tlie cemetery illustrates Boocher's words concernin'^ the New England theory,
" The dead are utterly pone. God has tliem in anotlic world. Their state is lixed
and unalterable. iSo tliinking, it seems of but little worth to garnish their sleep-
ing-places." Tlie old Prescott mansion is on a broail domain 2.^ M. from the vil-
lage. This was founded by Col. Wm. Prescott, who led the Middlesex minute-
men to Cambridge, and commanded the Americans at the battle (jf Bunker Hill,
where the Pei)percll Co. lost IG men. He left the redoubt within push of bay-
onet of the British, warding ofl' their thrusts by his flashing sword. His son.
Judge Wm., succeeded to the estate, and from him it was inherited by his sou,
Wm. Hickling Prescott, who here wrote a greivt part of his noble historical works.
His son now owns the estate.

Soon after leaving Pepperell the line enters the State of New Hamp-

106 lloutc l/f. SAYBROOK TO HAKTFOIID.

shire. Station, TloUis, 3 M. S. E. of the village of that name (stages
to all trains) wjiicli gave 250 num to the Continental Armies. Soon after
the train enters the city of Nashua (see Route 20).

14. Saybrook to Hartford.

Via Connrctirut Vallpy H. K in U M. Fare, $1.50. This route follows the
W. bank ol' tlic Conn. HiviT, ami a scat on tlio r. side of the car aHonls iik'.i.sinj;
vi('w.s of tlu! river an<l tiie villages on its .shores.

For Sayhrook Point see Route 8. After leaving Saybrook ami cro.ssing
the Shore Line R. R. (Route 8), at the Junction, the lino nins N. W.
through the old limits of Saybrook, with the river clo.se at hand. The
•soil of this town is enriched by piling thereon great ({uantities of whito-
lish, which are caught off its shores, and sold for a trilling sum per thou-
s.md. Stations, Essc.v, Deej) River, S. Chester, Chester (ricli farming
country, with an Episcoi)al academy dating from 17'.<2), Gooilspeed's (vil-
lage across the river), Arnold's (near Avhich the village of E. Iladdam is
seen on the E. baidc), and JIaddam. Near Arnold's, the mouth of Sal-
mon River is seen on the E. baidi, and 30 Mile, or Lord's Island divides
the Connecticut some distance above. The ancient territory of the
"fierce and warlike " Woiigung Indians em'oraced Iladdam and E. Had-
<lam. They parted with tlieir birthright for 30 coats, and the land wa.s
settled by people from Hartford. Quarries of some importance have been
worked here, and the annual catch of shad is considerable. Stations,
Walkley Hill, Higganiim (a thriving river-landing and ferry), Maromas,
and Middletown.

Middletowii C McDonouyh Uouse, 1.50 guests), " the Forest City," is a
beautiful acadendc city, l»uilt on ground gently rising from the river at
the bottom of a great bend. Its maritime interests are along the wharves
which run out from Water St. ; the scat of trade and of the hotels is on
Main St. ; while High St. is above all, and is lined with fine houses and
carefully kept gardens. The Custom House and Court House (of Middh'-
sex Co. ) are i)lain stone buildings, and there are several handsome churches
in the city. The manufactures include pumps, webl ling, and tape {% 600,0(»f I
a year), rules and chisels, sewing-machines, and several companies ma]:e
britannia and silver-plated ware. The safe and convenient harbor (10 it.
of water at the wharves) renders this the last port on the river for heavy
vessels.

The campus of Wesleyan University fronts on High St. (which, with
its double lines of stately trees, Charles Dickens called the finest rural
street he had ever seen). The University appertains to the Methodist
sect, and sustains a high reputation. In the work of the intellectual up-
lifting of the Methodist clergy it has borne a prominent part. Besides
the old buildings in the usual Novanglian style, there are three fine new

SAYBIIOOK TO IIAUTFURD. Rouk Ij. 107

name (stagos
, Soon alter

onto. foUoWR the
all'ords i>l(as>nK

ok and crossing
110 runs N. W.
eat hand. The
itities of whito-
^ sum per thovi-
r (rich fiirming
C.Jootlspeed's (vil-
>f E. Haddum is
e mouth of Sal-
lVs Island divides

territory of the
lam and E. Ha<l-
au.l the land was
inrtance have been
erable. Stations,

ferry), M aromas,

Forest ('ity," is a

; from the river at

along the wharves

,f the hotels is on

h fine houses and

House (of Middl.'-

Iiandsome churches

and tape ($600,(H>ii

.1 companies mahe

lient harbor (10 ft.

he river for heavy

,gh St. (^^hich, with
fed the finest rural
[s to the Methodist
Ithe intellectual up-
Jient part. Besides
are three fine new

edifices of Portland Handslone. Rich Hall contains tlio library of ultout
20,00(1 vohinics. Jutl'l Hall (tlie <.^ift of Oraii^j^c .Tiidd, the a,','ri(uliuralist )
is a lincly finished liuildinfj:, containing admirable natural-history collec-
tions. Some of these cabinets are unexcelled in America, having been
c< Uected a; id arra?.ged by scientists who have spent years in special
8tudics. Casts of skeletons and parts of colossal animals whoso species
have long been extinct are arranp'd here. Tho Memorial ("hapel is a
fine work f)f ardiiteetur.'. Its lower room is u;;e(l for daily collegts
Iirayers, while al)ovc is the churcli proper, with memorial windows which
cost $ 700 each.

That on tlic left is in honor of tlio past, stinlcnts wlio dictl as soMiors of tho
ITiii'iii, ami hears tlie iiiscriiitidiis, " Tlio lieauty of Isra«l is Klaiii ui>i>ii lier lii;;h

Iilaccs " ; "It is sweet and liltini,' to dio for one's fatlierliiid," in llie liiitin of
Inraee ; " Thci earth is a grave of lieroes," in tin- (ireek of Homer. Under the
Hvuiholic llicnrt) of a ludiean are tiie names of tli(! slain. Tiie Wesh-yan (Inard
((>i. <i., '1th L'onn. Uej;.) went fnmi the University, On the r. opj)osite is a win-
dow bearing; jtortraits of lour presith-nts of tht; University: Will)nr Fisl<, I). D.
(18.10-^9); Htephen olin, D. D., author of "Travels in thi- Kast."&e. (IHl^-.M);
Nathan l)an;,'s, I). 1)., an itinerant minister, l.S()l-20, aj^'ent and editor of tiio
Hook (,'onecrn, 18'J0-n(i, an<l afterwards President of the Uidversity ; and .\. W.
8niith, UIj. 1)., a jiromiiient mathematician. In is71, the Uidversity had 10 in-
htnietors and l.'^:! students.

Tlic * view from the tower of the ohl chapel is delightful, embracing
the bay-like river and its rii)arian hills, the city l)elow, and the busy (piar-
rics at Portland, the long and imposing buildings of t'le Insane Asylum
en a hill in tlie S., tlie Industrial SeliO(d, and the rolliig lulls to the W.
On this hill was the far-viewing fortress of Mattabesick, the aboriginal
chief bowheag, and around its base the Massachusetts immigrants settled
in 1G53. Prissot de Warville, a French tourist (in 178S), asserted that
" from the hill over Middletown is one of the finest and richest prospect.s
in America." Thu villas and gardens of Iligli St. extend on each side of
the campu.s, and not far from it is the Indian Hill Cemetery, with a hand-
some sepidchral chapel at the entrance, and fine views from its hills over
leagues of farm-studded valleys. Here is buried Gen. J. K. F. Mans-
field, Avho stormed Monterey, was higldy distinguished at Buena Vista,
fortified Wa.shington City (18GI ), and w^as mortally wounded while leading
Jus corps at Antietam. In this vicinity is the Industrial School for Girls,
a Uiudel institution with fine buiklings surrounded by broad lands, wher;i
the inmates arc given three hours daily for study, and do their own work.

On a high hill \\ Isl. S. E. of the city are the vast and imposing build-
fogs of the State General Hospital for the Insane. The nuiin building
1^ of Portland stone, and has a length of 7GS ft. with acconmiodations for
4o0 patients. It stands on spacious grounds which cover 230 acres of the
bill, and commands a fine view of the city and the widenings of the river.

, Farther down the river are points often visited by geologists. Fehlspar is
frund lierc in sueli quantities as to make it an item of trade, as it is used in niak-
fr.g porcelain. The lead mines so actively worked during the Revolution have
Ion'' been abandoiicd.

108 llontclB. NEW HAVEN TO NORTIIAMI'TON.

On Main St. ncor thn McDonongli Honso is the Berkeley Divinity
Sohool, iin Episcopfil institution under tln^ prcsidcMicy of I5ishn|» WilliaiiiM.
It was founded in lS;"i7, lias graduatj^d 122 nuui, and had, in lh71, 12 jno-
fesriors and 24 studi'iits. The cliaiicl (of St. Luke) is a small but bcauti-
fid Gothic structure, built of stone and having? very rich stained windows.
The students attenil Ntrvice in robes, and their singing is fine. Near by
and on Main St. is the elegant church of the Holy Cross (Kj)ificoi)al) b\iilt
of Portland stone, with a graceful tinibi-r roof. The N. and S. (Congrega-
tional churches are fine buildings, and Main St. has three banks, huilt iu
the style of bank-architecture jjcculiar to New England, — with one high,
solid story, of stone or brick. The quaint little I'arthenon which is usimI
for a Court House is on the same street.

Near the N. end of Main St. (with its larKc Roman Catholic church) is tliP pier of
the I'ortlaml ferry. Tlie (luanies of red sainlstmii' at I'lutlaiiil are of continental
fame, and are situated m .ir tiie jiicr at tlie (itlier cmi of tlie ferry, wiienet! also in
gained a line view of Middlctown and the ^nicefid Air Line IJailmad Ijrid^e. Tho
llrst quarry approachidjs the deepest, and from tlie sharp eij^i! of the liill one can
look down into a va.st cliasin from whicli lias licen taken the material for hnn-
dreds of fine l)uildinf,'s, and forfroids of lon^ Mocks in nearly every Atlantic ( ity.
The second (piarry is the largest and oldest; and beyond this is a third. Th'so
works emjiloy KOO men, great nnnd»ers of draught-animals, and 40 vessels. Tho
stone is easy to work, of a durable < haracter, and <if a rich shade of brown.

The New U;iveu, -Middletown, and Willimantii' 11. U., runs from the former
city t<» Middletown, and here < rosses the Connecticut River on a tine iron briili;e

When the link between Middletown and Willimaidic is complete(|, the Air Lino
from Roston to New York wil
Mid<lletown, i.':5i M., fare, S.'Jc,

inlet
from Roston to New York will nui on the rails of this line. From New Haven to

at Berlin, and

I ,

A l)ran(di track leaves the New Haven and Springfield Railr<
runs 10 M. S. K. to Middletown.

The steamers between Hartford and New York stop at this ijenerally Into

in the afternoon, and then proceed down tho river, from whuoc mouth Middle-
town i.s .'51 M. distant.

After leaving Middletown the Conn. Valley Railroad runs N. about 15
M. passing through the towns of Cromwell, Rocky Hill, aud Wetliersfield,
and enters the city of Hartford.

r.:?'

!lM t

> t

15. New Haven to Northampton.

Via N. H. and N. R. R., in 84 M.

This line is often called the Canal R. R., since it follows the lino of the old
Farmingt{»n Canal for a considerable distance. It runs through a quiet agricul-
tural country, an<l terminates near the W. ceJitre of Massachusetts, on the line
of the (projected) Mass. Central R. R. Shortly after its completion in 1841) it was
leased by the New York and New Haven R. R. for 20 years, and on the expiration
of that time it reverted to the original proprietors.

The line passes West Rock soon after leaving New Haven, and enters
the valley of Mill River, which it follows for nearly 20 M. Tlie town of
Haniden, which is soon entered, is in a valley between the W. Rock Mts.
and the E. Rock Mts., two ranges which run N. nearly i)arallel until they
unite in Southington, and then advance into Massachusetts. Mt. Camiel
(near the station of the same name) is a lofty spur from the E. Rock

NT.

keley Divinity

Jishop Williams,
in lh71, 12iMo-
inall but lu'imti-
stainctl windows.
I fine. Ni-ar by
(FijUficnpal) built
jiiul S. (/ongren.v
bfxuka, built in
— with onehigli,
ion which is uswl

inrrli) is th«" i>i«'r of
I iirc of coiitini'titiil
iiy, whence, also i^*
iil'i(.a<l bridge. Tim
t' of tilt! liill one v.m
3 iimtt^iiiil for Iniii-
pvery Atlantic i ity.
^ is II tliiiil. Tlvsti
1(1 40 vessels. Tlirt
iule of 1)in\vn.
IS from the former
m a tine iron l)ri<ip'.
ph'ted. the Air Lino
From New Haven to

In ' at Berlin, and

r;enorally Into
u.oi; mouth Middle-
runs N. about 15
and WetliersfielJ,

on.

. the lino of the old
mgh a quiet agricul-
husetts, on the Une
pletionin 1849 it was
lud on the expiration

Haven, and enters
I\I. Tlie town of

1 the W. Kock Mts.
parallel until they

isetts. Mt. Carmel
from the E. Hock

NEW HAVKN TO NOllTllAMl'TON. lloutc 15. lOD

Il:inj;i*, mid iH composed of j^Teejistont'. llaindcu is aquift country towtj,
on fertile lands. The stations, Cheshire and Hitchcock's, arc in the town
»»f ('hcsldre, a picturcstpu' fainiing district, in one of wliose villaj^es is
.situatcil tilt! Ei)iscoj)al Academy of Conn, (military), %*nich dates from
l.'IOl. I'lantsvillc! and Sonthington are in a town by the latter name,
formerly noted for t'.\tensivt) tin-ware manufactories, but'now depeiidiuj*
on iron-works. Station, I'lainville, with the Farmington Canal on the
r. and the Mine Hills on tlie I. At this point the llartford. Providence,
and Kishkill Uailroatl crosses the jn-esent route. Station, Farmington.
The village is seen about \ M. away in a beautiful situation near the
broad, rich mea<low» of the Farmington River. A broad and shaded
street 2 M. long composes the village. This fair and fertile valley wiu*
the Tunxis of th(! Indians, who dwelt here in great numberM. Many of
their cemeteries and tisliing-phuH'S luive been found. The land wjis
bought from tluon by immigrants from lioston and Koxbury, who settled
here in 10 K». It was the pastor of this village who i)reached to the troops
marching to Boston in 1775, from the te.xt, "Play the man for your
country, and for the cities of your God ; and the Lord do that which
si'cmeth him good."

From Farmington a branch track runs to New llartford (14 M.), hy thn stations
I'nioMville, Uuiliiii^ton, Collinsville, and I'inc Meadow. At Col'lnsville (I'alley
IIdii^c, good) tlwi Faniiin},'ti'ii Uiv<!r Is ilannned, and affords a great power which
is iiseil \)y extensive works for the n\aimf;i' ue of axes and edged tools. Tho
liMsincss was founded liy Mr. Collins, ami low employs 0-7')0 men, who, with
their families, make uji a jxipulous villa.;i . l.'i,0()0 stetd ph)Ughs are sent out
> early to all i>arts of the W(irld, and 20(),00(» Brazilian hoes have been made here
ill I'lie year. Vast numbers of Mexican nia(!hetes uru turned out, ami more axes
tli:ni at any other factory in Amcriea. Here, also, were made the pikes for John
Brown's raid on Viri,'inia.

At Collinsville the Conn. Western R. U. forms a junction with the branch.

Beyond Farmington is Avon, a pretty village, where Silliman found
" renmants of primeval New England customs." On the E., Talcott Mt.
is plainly seen, with a lofty tower on its top. (See Environs of Hartford.)

Stations, Weatogue and Simsbury, in the town of Simsbury, which was
settled in 1G70 on tho Indian lands of Massacoe. During King lM»ilii)'s
War the colonists buried their goods and fled, but the town was destroyed
l)y the Indians and left so long neglected that the wilderness reclaimed it,
^nd the returning settlers never found their buried treasures. On a hill
W. of the track is the principal village, ambushed in trees. Just before
reacliing Granby, the next station, the Farmington River, which has
followed the track for 15 M., turns sharply to the S. E. through a ]>ass
in the mountain, and flows down into the C!onnecticut. Station, Granby
(three small hotels in the town), in a rugged farming town. Here was
•located Newgate Prison (State of Conn. ), — a grim i)ile on tlie top of Co])per
Hill, wliere the prisoners were confined in the cavernous shafts and pas-
•ngijs of a copper-niine, — abandoned in 1700. Some of the convicts lived

■SB

}

110 Jiontelo. NEW HAVEN TO NORTHAMPTON.

111.', i

I i

60 ft. bolow the eartli's surface, amid unceasing darkness. Tlie moiith cf
the niaiti shaft was covered by a massive stone building, and the prisoners
Avnre guarded bj- 20 soldiers. This subterranean laT>yrinth served for a
State Prison iVoni 1775 to 1827. The State says that the average mor-
tality during that period was less than that in tiie other American prisons,
but harsh stories went abroad about the gloomy cavenis of Newgate.

Soon after leaving Granby the line enters Massachusetts, and runs along
the pond of Congamuck, stopi)ing at Southwick (Union Hotel). Then
the train descends on to the jilains of Westfield, and, i)assing through the
village (see Route 22), crosses Westfield River, and stops at the station at
the junction of the Boston and Albany Railroad (Route 22). Soon after
leaving Westfield the train passes iiito the valley of the Manham River,
and stops at Southampton, under the shadow of high hills. After leaving
the latter place, the long ridge of Mt. Tom looms upon the r., while
Pomeroy's Mt. is farther away on the 1. Easthampton is now reaciied
(EyrU', House, Mansion House). This is the seat of Williston Seminary,
a high graded institution attended by 180-200 students. This seminary
has been endowed with $ 250,000 by Hon. Sam.uel Williston, who has also
given 3 1^5,000 to Amherst College, large sums to Mt. Holyoke Seminary,
and has 3 times rebuilt the Payson Church in Easthampton. He began
business by making buttons at home with his wife's aid, after which he
perfected machinery, and erected a factory. His income in 1864 was
$ 200,000.

Vulcanized rubber and rul)ber thread, cotton yarn, susjienders, buttons
(1200 gross per day), and other goods are made here.

From Easthampton, Mt. Holyoke is full in sight to the E. After pass-
ing near the great bend of the Connecticut River, the train enters North-
ampton (Route 24).

Station, Florence, wliere are the extensive manufactories of the Flor-
ence Sewing-Machine Comjiany. The works surround a quadrangle, and
20-22,000 machines are turned out every year. Stations, Leeds (witli
large sewing-silk factories), Haydeuville (brass-works), and Williamsburg
{Havipshire House), a pretty village among the hills, and at present the
terminus of the line.

Cumminf]tton is a lofty mountain-town, 12-14 M. W. of Williamsburg. Here
was bcni, in ISIO, II. Jj. Dawes, who was for some tiiue a lawyer and journalist,
ami who lius been one of the most usi'ful members of Congress sinee his election
ill IS')".

William Culleii Bryant, born at Cununington in 1704, is one of the lead-
ing intets of America, llih verses were iiubnshe<l before he was tun years old,
and the grandly solemn i)oem of "'rhauatopsis " was written while he Avas in his
18th year. For most of tlie time from 1815 to 1825 'le was a lawyer in W. Ma^s. ;
but in 1820 lie eoiiiieeted himself with tlie "New Vo'k Evening Post," with which
lie still remains. lie has mad(! several toius in Ihirojie, and since 1845 has lived
in an ohl mansion at Roslyn. \j. I. li«'sides several volume.^ of i)rose and ])oetry
of great sweetness and grandeur, he has jiublislied the best traiislitioii extant of
the Iliad and the Oi'.y.'. ey of iltimcr.

M \

BRIDGEPORT TO VVINSTED. jioute 10. Ill

16. Bridgeport to Winsted.

Via Naugatuck R. R. iu 62 M. Fare, $ l.So.

4 M. from Bridgepoii the train crosses the l)roa(l Housatonic River.
At Naugatuck Junr'tion tlio rails of the Shore Line Raihoad are left, and
the line tunis to the N. E. and foll<>ws the Housatonic as far as Derby.
The village of Birmingham (Basset House) is picturesquely located on a
high headland at the junction of the Housatonic and Naugatuck Rivers,
Commerce was formerly carried on on a large scale from this point, its
vessels rumiing to the West Indies, but manufactures have now taken
possession of Derby, Great numbers of pins, tacks, l)rads, corsets, crin-
oline, stockings, and melodeons (Sterling's) are made lu-re. The great
Housatonic Dam is aljout ^ jM, from the village and affonls an immense
water-i)ower. It cost 3^00,000, and was three years in building, being
constructed of solid masonry in the form of an arch, with the convex sur-
face turned toward the pi'essure of the stream. The dam is GOO ft. long,
and has 23 ft. fall, and the heavy roaring of the plunging waters can be
heard miles away at night.

Gen. Duviil Iluniphreys was born at Derby iu 17'i2. lie was Waslilngton's aide,
and long resided at Mount Vernon, after which he was minister to Purtuyal and
iSpaiii, au<l eoniinander of the Conn, militia.

Isaac Hull was born here in 1775. He entered the navy, and in 1800 captured
Port Platte, in Hayti. He distinguished himself in the TripolitJUi War, and iu
18) J, commanding the "Constitution," he escaped froiU a British scpiadrou in h(jt
pursuit, by wari)iii;^' his ship aliead during a calm. A month later hu met the
British frigate "Guorriere," and eaptur-jil her after a short, Hharj) ai'tiou. (Jen.
Will. Hull, born hero, 1753, was condoumed to dcaiii in isi'i, for smrendering the
Army of tlie Northwest, at Detroit, but President Matli.son pardoned him.

An omnibus runs fnjm ilirmingham to its sister-village of Ansonia, i)assiug
along breezy heights which alford line views of the Naugatuck Valley and the
nival homes of Derby scattered on the Trans-Naugatu(;k hills. In the N. i-tid of
Biriiiingliam a small Green is passed, with ; Saxon-tow«'red ^]pi.scopal Church,
and ni>ar it are churches of tlie Methodists, Congri'gationalists, and Catholics.

A Railroad runs from .iVnsonia to New Haven direct.

A)i.sonia (Ansonia House), the next station beyond Derby, is a thriving
borough near the falls in the Naugatuck. It was foundcil in 1838, and
has become the seat of numerous rolling-mills and foundries, a large
hoop-skirt factory, and manufactories of clocks, lightning-rods, and brass
wares. Some fine mansions are linilt on the heights over the liver, and
from near the tall stone churcli is gained a neat valley-view, embracing a
great part of the old Indian domain of Paugussett.

At Seymour, the next station, is a small village founded by Gen.
Humphrey in ISIO, for the manufacture of cotton, pa])er, and woollen
goods. For the latter purpose he had imported large Hocks of Spanish
I merino sheep.

I tSeucou i'alls has a water-power which is used by factories making a
I LTeat numbor of woollen sliawls. Station, Naugatuck, whicli is the

*;♦_ ;

112 Route IG. BRIDGEPOUT TO WINSTED.

., 1 »

• t

%\ ^■''

^lil

lif fi

seat of the Goodyear Glove (and UubLer) Co., a Pin Co., and of Tuttle's
Works, which turn out 400,000 rakes and hoes each year. Naugatuck is
derived from the Indian plirase, Nau-ko-tunk, meaning "one large tree,"
from a lofty and prominent tree which once stood on the Rock Rimmon,
near the Falls Static i. Union City, and Waterbury (see Roiite 11).

Junction is formei. iiere with the Hartford, Providence, and Fishkill Railroad,
and also with the Watfrtown Branch. Watertown {Worrcn House), ahout M.
distant, is a quiet village in a thinly settled and hilly farming town.

Stations, Waterville (where pen-knives are manufactured), Pl^Tnouth,
(near which are fine quarries of white granite), Camp's Mills, and Litch-
field. The l)eautiful village of Litchfield {Mansion House, U. S. House)
is about 4 M. from the station (stages connect with trains). This is the
county seat of Litchfield County, and once claimed jurisdiction to the
Mississippi River.

The, Royal Charter of Conncc^ticut in 1C04 defined that eolony as "all that part
of His Majesty's dominions, in New England, in America, Ixmnded the E. by
Narragansett Bay, ... on the N. by the line of the Massachusetts Plantiitiou,
and (in the S. by the sea. And in longitude . . . from said Narragansett Bay on
E. to th(! South Sea on tlui W. part, with the islands thereunto belonging." Sub-
secjuently royal grants" detached from this vast belt parts of New York and
Pennsylvania, altliough nnuh of the tract in the latter State (including tlie Valley
of Wyoming), was settled from Ooini. At the close of the Revolution the State
ceded this, her western domain, to the Union, reserving a tract on the S. of Lake
Erie, as wide as Conn, and 120 ^I. long, and (•oini)rising 4,000,000 acres. Of thig
land 500,000 acres (the "Eire Lands") were granted to the towns which had been
destroyed diu'ing tlicwar (New London, Fairlield, &e.), and the remainder of the
Western Iteserve was sold to a real-estate company for !? 1,200,000, which sum
was carefully invested as the school and church lUnd of Connecticut.

The village of Litchfield is situated on a broad plateau, 1,100 ft. above
the sea, and consists mainly of two broad and embowered streets, which
cross each other at right angles. The hotels and county buildings are
near the intersection of these avenues, and front on a pretty Green, which
is adorned by a soldiers' monumerit. Beneath the words " Pro Patria "
is a list of nearly CO men of Litchfield, who died in the armies of the
Union. 2-3 M, from the village, on the S. W., is Bantam Lake, con-
taining 900 acres, the largest lake in the State, the haunt of many fish,
and scarcely yet invaded l)y the factories, which have ruined the charm
of so many of the New England lakes. Near North St. (to the 1.) is
Prospect Hill, from which a fascinating * view is offered, embracing the
wikh^rness of high hills v.'hich surround the plateau and stretch away in
the W. Bantam Lake i.s seen, silver-shining between its sinuous shores,
about a mile distant, and the great elms and old mansions of Litchfield
are on the plain above it. Near the corner of North St., with the road
diverging to the hill, was the Beccher nnmsion, which has been moved
(1872) to S]uing Hill (near the end of N. St.), wh- ie it forms a part of
T>r. Buel's (private) asylum for the insane. On South St. is the old Wol-
cott Mansion, built about 1700, by Gov. Wolcott (see Windsor), pnd

BRIDGP]POKT TO WINSTED. JtoiUe 10. 113

a of Tuttle's

saugatuck is

e large tree,"

ick Rinnnon,

utell).

likill Railroatl,
x), about M.

\), Pl>Tnouth,

Is, and Litch-

U. S. House)

This is the

iiction to the

IS "alUhatpart
nded the E. by
;ctts riantJitioii,
•agansett Bay on
elongiiit,'." Sub-
New York and
uding the Valley
ilution the State
m the S. of Lake
) acres. Of thig
; whieh had been
-emainder of the
),000, which sum
lent.

1,100 ft. above
_ streets, which
|y buildings are
;y Green, which
" Pro Patria "
armies of the
;am Lake, con-
It of many fish,
med the charm
|t. (to thel.) is
embracing the
Istretch away in
sinuous shores,
IS of Litchfield
with the road
las been moved
irms a part of
is the old Wol-
Windsor), f"^

where was bom Oliver Wolcott, an officer of the Continental Army, Secre-
tary of the U. S. Treasury (1795-1800), Gov. of Conn. (1818-27), and
founder of the flourishing village of Wolcottville. The leaden statue of
George III., wliidi stood on tlie Bowling Green in New York City, was
brought to this house, and melted into bullets by the Governor's daughters.
Many otlier solemn old colonial mansions are along the roads, and French
roofs have not yet invaded this dignified seclusion. This air of antiquity,
together with the balmy, cool, and salubrious breezes which dwell among
tliese hills, have given Litchfield a high place among the restful and un-
fashionable of the summer-resorts.

Considerable quantities of copper and nickel have been found in the town ; but
the latter mineral is so tirinly united with otlicr elements that it will not pay for
cxtractioi). In this town of 3,100 inhabitants, there are 10 churches, of which
several belong to the Eplscoi)al sect.

Among the pleasant drives in the vicinity is that to Bantam Lake, with its
umbrageous groves (2 -a M.) ; to Mount Tom, aii<l to the village of Morris, with
a (plaint old country inn, tincha.iged since the colonial days (5-U M.). From Mt.
Tom, on a dear day, the Catskill Mts. may be seen, anil on the E. the hills beyond
tlie Conn. River.

Litchfield was bought of the coliny of Conn, in 1718, for about £300, and was
settled in 1720. The village was surrounded by a palisade, lest tiie Indians
siiould return in force to their ancient and favorite hunting-grounds of Bantam.
In 17S4, Judge Tai)i)ing Reeve (who married Aaron Burr's sister) established a
Law School here, and in 17'.>8, James Gould, Judge of the Supreme Couitof Conn.,
joined him, and remained 40 years. This was then the most renowned law
siliool in America, and 474 lawytiis were educated here. The first Young Ladies'
Seminary in the Union was established at Litchfield. The town lias ]»roduced
many able men, cliief among whom are Beecher and Bushnell. Lj'nian Beecher,
I). I)., " the father of more l>rains than any otlier man in America," was pastor

II here ISIO -2G. Of his many illustrious children, the most famous is
J Henry Ward Beeclier, born at Litchfield in 181.*i. He was educated
at l.ane Seminary (CiiKiinnali), of which his father was president. From 1837 to
]S47 he was settied in Indiana, and in the latter j'car he became pastor of the
I'lyinouth Church, iii I'ooklyn. This i)osition he has now held for 26 years,
dining which time he has won a world-wide fame for his oratorical powers, be-
sides building ni» a powerful church with active auxiliary branches. Ilis vigo-
rous and i)icturesque style is very effective ad convincing ; and it may safely be
said that, during the past 20 years, he has lieen the foremost oF the clergy of
.Vnierica.
Mrs. Harriet Beecher Stnwe, <laughti»r of layman Beecher, was born at Litch-
. field in 1812, and mariied Rev. Calvin E. Stowe in 1832, In 1852 she imblislied
" Cnele Tom's Cabin," an antislaveiy novel, which sent a thrill throughout tliB
re|iul»lic and the world. She has sinee itublished " Dnd," " Agnes of Korreiito,"
" 'i'he Pearl of Orr's Island," and many charming stories of New England life.

After leaving Litchfield the train stops at Wolcottville (founded by
Gov. Wolcott in 18U2), tlie seat of large woollen-mills, brass-works, and
uuimifactories of plated goods. In this town, John Brown, of Ossawa-
tomie, the invader of Virginia, was bom in 1800. Station, Buirville,
after which the train reaches
1 Winsted (Clarke House, $2; Beardsley House), a long, narrow vil-
^lage between steep hills on the line of Mad River. Iron and steel works
aliound here; pins, scythes, hoes,' tlocks, and other articles are also
made. Some dlBtauce above the village, on a high plateau, is Long Lake,

t I

IHP.

114 Route 17. BRlDGEPOiiT TO THE BERKSHIRE IIILX.S.

Avhich contains 1,500 acres, and is nearly 4 M. long. The waters rush
turbulently tlirougli a narrow channel at its end, and form tlie impetu-
ous Mad River, wliich descends 200 ft. in 2 M.

At Winstcd the Nau<,'atuck R. II. forms a junction with tlie Conn. Western R.
R. running from Hartford to Millortou on tlic lliulem R. R. (Route 20).

i '^

17. Bridgeport to the Berkshire Hills.

Via the Uousatonic R. R. in 110 M. (to Pittsfield). Fare, $3.30.

Shortly after leaving Bridgeport (on Route 8) the line enters the valley
of the Pequanock, which it follows for 15 I\I. through a thinly settled
country abounding in low hills. Stations, Stepney, Botsford, and New-
town, the latter being a village about ^ M. from the R. R., situated on a
high hill in the midst of Newtown, the Patatuck of the aborigines. It
is here, according to Beecher, that "the hills lirst begin to show moim-
tainous symptoms." At llaxdcyville the Shepaug Valley R. R. comes in
from Litchtield (see Route 16), and at Brookjidd Junction a short rail-
road runs S, W. to Danbury (see Route 18). Station, Brookfield, beyond
which the track approaches and crosses the Housatonic River, and stops
at Nexo Milfonl (New Milford House). This is a line village near the
junction of the Housatonic and Aspetuck Rivers, with a wide, verdant
common, and well-shaded streets. A silver-mine was worked here in
1790, and much marble and slate has been cpiarried in the liills. At pres-
ent, factories for making buttons, boots, hats, and twine sustain the
place, which is furthermore one of the centres of the tobacco trade in the
valley. Stations, Merwinsville, and Kent (restaurant in the station ;
Kent Plains Hotel). This sweet valley was the home of the Scaghticoke
Indians, and here the Moravians founded a mission. The cause which
more than any other forced the Christian tribes of New England to lose
their identity by miscegenation operated in full strength here. 100 men
of this tribe joined the Continental Army, and but few of them ever re-
turned. So several negroes and a few poor whites joined the community ;
and from the combination arose the present representatives of the tribe,
who plough and plant, wear pants and go to chiirch, and otherwise are
such Indians as Massasoit never dreamed of. President Woolsey, of
Yale College, has spent much time with this fragment of the Scaghti-
cokes. On a lofty plain W. of Kent (ascended by a long and arduous
road) are the Spectade Ponds, — two lakes surrounded by forests and
connected by a short strait. From the round hill above the N. Pond the
fittingness of the name is clear. It is said that a noble view opens to
the W. from this summit, including, the Mts. of Sharon and Cornwall,
the Hudson Highlands, and the Catskills, 60 M. away. (When the editor
made this ascent, in May, 1872, tlie remoter mts. were veiled l)y blue

ILi^S.

NORWALK TO DANBURY. Route IS. 115

.-atera rush
lie imptitu-

Westcrn B-
0).

's the valley
hiiily settled
i, aiul New-
lituated on a
(origines. It
I show moiui-
. R. comes in
I a short rail-
diekl, beyond
'er, and stops
llage near the
wide, verdant
orked here in
lills. At pres-
sustain the
l;o trade in the
. the station ;
,e Scaghticoke
e cause which
iigland to lose
^.re. 100 men
them ever re-
le community ;
■s of the tribe,
otherwise are
, Woolsey, of
jf the Scaghti-
g and arduous
by forests and
e N. Pond the
\q view opens to
and Cornwall,
hen the editor
veiled by blue

lieat-mist. ) Tlie next two stations are in Cornwall, wliicli town was sold
ill 1738 for $ 1,500 (46 stiuare M.), and settled in the same year. It is in
u double sense the rougliost township in the county. S. Cornwall is sit-
uated in a deep valley, and here a Foreign Mission School was founded in
1810. In 1S'20 there were 19 indiaiis and (5 racifie-LslainU'i-.s studying at
the scliool, and here, in 181S, dii'd Obookiah, the giftid Hawaiian.

Daily staf,'os run from Comwall IJrid^re to Litphlielil and Hliaroii, and from W.
(>)rii\Viill to Cioslit'ii and tlic villairi's of (,'orii\vall.

(ioshcn is a lofty town, in whicii are 5 i)onds. and Ivy Mt. (tho lii^^liest in the
State). It is distiii^inished tor the ricii Kii;.disli dairy ciii't'se (a stapltrof Litch-
licld County) wliich it jtrodnccH. llfic, in l.SOO, was born Daniel S. Dickinson, an
fiaiiu'iit jurist, and senator from New York.

The train now nins along the narrow valley of the Ilousatonic with tho
ridge of Sharon on the W. Just beyoiul that ridge, and extending thence
to the N. Y. line, is a rich and fertile valley.

Station, Falls VilUifjc (Dudley House ; and a snug country inn in tlie
glen over the river). The Urcat Falls of the. Ilvusntunic are near the
village, and form a fine sight, the river plunging over rocky ledges for 60
ft., with a tremendous roaring. A near scrutiny of tlie Falls is unad-
visable, as its vicinity is crowded with squalid Irish shanties, while tlie
R. R. repair-shops are situated above them on the .site of the Ames
foundries, wliieh produced some of the heaviest iron fortress-cannon dur-
ing the War of ISGl -65. When President Dwight wrote so etithusiasti-
cally of these Falls (about ISOO) they were surrounded by the fitting
adjuncts of a great j)rimeval forest. 2-3 M. N. W. of the village is
Mt. Prospect, whose cleared sunnnit is gained by a rude wood-roa<l, and
all'ords a view of the broad valley of the Housatonic. At the foot of
Prospect is a remarkable group of rocks, the darkest, deepest nook of
which is called the Wolf's Den. W. of the vilhige is the far-viewing
Gallows Hill, where, according to tlie tradition, the corpse of a negnj waa
once found hanging from a tree, and no one ever knew how he came tliere,
or who he was.

Daily stages to Salisbury and Lime Rock. Station, Canaan (two
country hotels), a small village situated on the upper edge of the valley
of the Blackberry River, witli tlie great, ridgy mass of Canaan Mt. on
the S. .

Tlie Co.m. Western R. R. crosses the present route at Canaan, and runs W.
through the rare scenery of Salisbury (see Route 20). At the next station
(Ashley Falls), the line enters the County of Herkshire and iState of Massachu-
setts. For the remaining 35 M. of this railroad line see the " Berkshire Hilla"
(Route 23).

18. S. Norwalk to Danbury.

Via Danbury and Norwalk R. R. in 24 M. Fare, 90c. Stations, Xor-
walk, Winnepauk, Kent, Wilton, Cannon's, Georgetown, liidgejield.

__j.-i. , vim

4 ii-

lie Route IS. S. NOUWALK TO DANCURY.

Tlic latter village is 3 M. from tlie station, on a branch track, and is
situated on a lofty ridge, called by the Indians Caudato'.va.

During Tryon's raid into tho State (May, 1777), the niiliti.i witlistood the ITos-
Kiiiiis liohiml a barricade in Rid;;cli"ld. It cost Tryon 170 n.en to take the frail
dctVnf'c, but CJeu. Wooster, tlio American leader, was mortally wounded. 8. 0.
Coodricli was born here in 17!':{. He wrote 170 books, most of which were under
tlie name of "Peter Parley." His works attained the enormous sale of over
7,n()(),nno volumes. His brother. Rev. C. A. Goodrich, and his son, F. B. Good-
rich (" Dick Tinto"), have also won fame as authors.

Station, Rcadinri, where Putnam's rude eloquence quelled the revolt of
the Conn, line (177^). Joel Barlow, born here in 1755, some time minister
to France, was author of a fine, but forgotten epic, the "Columbiad."
In 17^3 - 86, he was one of the authors of the " Anarchiad," in connec-
tion with David Humphreys, Jonatlian Trumbull, and Timothy Dwight,
concerning whicli transatlantic critics wrote the pasquinade beginning,

" Dnvid nnd Jonathan. Joel nnd Timothy,
Over the ocean set up the hjiuu of the — "

Crossing Bethel (junction of the Shepaug Valley R. R.), the train en-
ters Danbury (Wooster House, Turner House).

Danbury was "ank^c-deep in pork-fat" in May, 1777, when Tryon's Hessians
had destroyed the anny Ruii))lies collected here. It is said that, as the raiders
wert advailcinj^ up a hill near by, a reckless farmer rode to its crest and shouted,
" Halt, the whole universe, break off by kingdoms ! " Alarmed at such a formi-
dable force, the Hessians halted, threw out artillery to the front, and deployed a
line of skirmishers. In 1704 Robert Sandeman came a^ Danbury (where he died
in 1771), and founded a sect on the dogma that "faith is a bare belief in a bare
truth." In 1870 there were 20 members of this church in the U. S.,und they were
divided into 2 sects.

Tlie first American hat-factory was started here in 1780, when Zadoc
Benedict, with 3 men, made 3 hats a day. Now there are 10 companies
in the business, witli $ 500,000 capital, 4 of which make 216,000 liats a
year. The Danbury Shirt Co. turns out 230,000 shirts each year, and
many Bartram and Fenton sewing-machines are made here. The borough
has about 10,000 inhabitants, 9 churches, 4 banks, a public library, the
county buildings, and a great school, of which Danbury is ju ly proud.
Main St. is 1^ M. long, and from Deer Hill a neat view of the town is
gained. Lake Kenosha (2 M. ) is a favorite resort, and is a pretty lake,
with good boating and fishing. Powerful water-works supply tho
borough.

Near Danljury is a pretty cemetery of 100 acres, containing a monu-
ment 40 ft. high, erected by the Alasons of Coim. to Gen. Wooster. He
founded the first lodge in tlie State (Hiram, of New Haven), and was shot
at the Ridgefield fight. A monument is raised to 67 soldiers (in the Se-
cession War) of Danbury, who are buried elsewhere.

" They sleep their lost sleep,
Tlicy have fought their last battle,

No Aound shall awake them
To glory again."

if' ,';

BOSTON TO NEW YORK. Route 10. 117

ick, and is

-)od the Ilos-
ike the frail
idcd. H. G.
1 were, undor
sale of over
F. B. Good-

ie revolt of
lie minister
!olunibiad."
in connec-
liy Dwiglit,
iginuing,

le train en-

•n's Hessians
8 the raiders
and shouted,
iuch a foriui-
[id deployed a
vhere he died
lief in a bare
uid they were

when Zadoc

) companies

),000 hats a

h year, and

The borough

library, the

Li ly proud.

he town is

pretty lake,

supply the

iig a monu-
ooster. He
,nd was shot
i (in the Se-

19. Boston to New York.

New York and New Encland Railroad to Norwich, connecting at New London
wilij Mie Norwich line of steamers.

The train leaves the terminal station at tlie foot of Summer St. (PI, 39),
running across the llat.s on tlie W. of Boston Harbor, then through S.
Boston and over the S. Bay. It then passes through the rural district of
Dorchester, so lately annexed to Boston, and crosses the Nepouset River
several times near the suburban stations of Mattapan and Hyde Park.
Near Readville it crosses the Bostoji and Providence line, and then stops
at Dedham station, N. of whicli is the large and i)rosperoiis village which
contains the handsome Court House of Norfolk County. Near Dedham
are several factories on the water-power afforded by Mother Brook, which
is the oldest of American canals. It was made in 16-10, in order to in-
crease the navigable facilities of the Neponset River by turnhig part of
Charles River uito it. The canal is 3 M. long, and has a fall of 00 ft.

Fisher Ames was horn at Dedham in Mh'A. He was an eminent lawyer and
orator, and was the leader in Coii;,Tess dining the era of the t'unfedt ration. His
"liiUtns" letters, jinblislied in the Hoston papers, were political writings whicli
caused a great sensatinn.

A branch railroad runs in 2 M. to the main line of the Roston and Providence
Railroail. This forms the nearest route from Boston to Dedham.

The .stations, Ellis's, Norwood, Everett's, Winslow's, Tilton's, Walpole,
Cam])beirs, Norfolk, City Mills, and Franklin, are then passed. The lat-
ter town was named after Benjamin Franklin, and a hint was conveyed to
hiin (then at Paris) that a good church-bell would be an acceptable pres-
ent in return for the honor conferred on him. The philosopher sent the
town a collection of valuable books, ol)serving that the people were prob-
ably " more fond of sense than sound."

Nathaniel Emmons, D. D., one of the leaders of the Ilopkinsian
school of theology, was pastor here for 5-4 years. At Walpole the line
from Framingham to New Bedford crosses the track. Shortly after leav-
ing Franklin, tlie line crosses the Woonsocket Division of the N. Y. k N.
E. R. R. at Mill River Junction, and 2\ M. farther on it crosses the
Providence and Worcester R. R. (Route 10) at Blackstone. Stations,
]\Iillville, Ironstone, E. Douglas, Douglas, soon after passing which the
line enters Connecticut and stops at E. Thompson, whence a brancli
railroad runs 18 M. to the N. W., through the Massachusetts towns of
Webster, Dudley, and Southbridge. After crossing diagonally the large
town of Thompson (much visited in summer), the train passes on the rails
of the Nonvich and Worcester Division, at Putnam (a village contaiiung
several cotton and woollen factories).

A daily siige runs from Putnam to Woodstock, starting generally late in
the afternoon. Elmwood Hall, at Woodstock, is a, tine summer hotel (openin;^
June 15), surrounded by pleasant lawns. From this mountain village are obtained
noble views. " It is a miniature Mount Holyoke ; and its prospect, the Connec-

■ [

118 Route JO.

BOSTON TO NEW YORK.

!•'

b^'

If.

tinit. Valley in iiiiniiiinrp." (Bkei her.) Woodstock Lako, 1 M. from tlio villace,
is II hoiuitiiul find seriuesUired sheet of water, abounding in fish and encircled by
forests.

iS. W. of Wofid.stoek (pa.ssinR Cr>-stal Tiake on the way) is Aftliford, a secluded
rural town. Mere was lioni Tiion)as Knowllon, who fought in tlie six campaiyus
ending; in the coiKpu'St of Canada, and tlu.n in the Havana expedition. He led
th(! Ashford niinute-nien to the lines at Cambridge, and fougiit with them at
Hunker Hill. While counnanding a light infantry reg he was kille<l at its head iu
the battle of Harlem Heights (1770).

His grand-nephew was the knightly Lyon. Nathaniel Lyon was born at Ash-
ford iu IHlit. He was engaged in the Flori<ia War, the Mexican Wnr(woundeil at
the Helen (Jate of .Mexico City), and the Kansas l•'ree-^Stat(^ War. In May, iWil.
while coinmauding at St. Louis Arsenal, with a i:audrnl of Uegul.irs and several
regiments of loyal Missourians, lu^ cajitured a large; rebel c,inii» and army near the
city, liy rapid movements and hare' lilows, he .saved .Mis.souri to the Un^ni, but
■was at last confronted at Wilson's Creek liy a force 4 times as large as his own,
comjiosed of disloyal .Missourians, Arkansiaus, ami Texans. Disdaininj^ to flee,
he led his littlt; army again and again to the attack, until he was shot dead while,
heading thi! foicmost liles of a charging regiment. He lelt his fortune (.>:; 30, ooo)
to the govenuiient, to aid in putting down the rebellion, an<l after a solemn
triumphal transit across tlie country his body was laid to rest iu the villii^e
churchyanl at East onl.

The ]ieoi>le of Ashl'ord were ultra-orthodox in the old days. One day while
they were whipping a nonchurch-goer on the luiblic Creen, a stranger rode up
and cried, "Men of Ashford, you .serve God as if the Devil was in you. Do you
think you can whiji the grare of God into a man? Christ will have none but
volunteer'-." Then he spurred away, leaving the little Inquisition of Ashford
astounded, oon!'used, and ashamed.

In 177:5, Kli]ihalet Nott, D. 1)., the distingukshed educator, cind President of
L'nion College (1801 -(iO) for G2 years, was born at A.sliford. Galusha A. Grow
was born at Ashford in 1823.

ions, Day.sville and Daiiielsonville, busy villages engaged largely in
the cotton manufacture (the former turning out 240 miles of fancy cassi-
niere.s and 540,000 yai'ds of cotton cloth yearly). These stations are in
the largo town ot Killingly, which occupies part of the Indian districts of
Attawangan and Miinietixit.

This region is rich in Indian Traditions, the most curious of which is attarhed
to Mashapaug Lake, ^ M. N. of Daysville. Far back in the ante-colonial days, the
Indiiins were accustomed to hold revels on a hill on the site of this lake. IJut
once, after a merry-making four days hmg, the Great Spirit becanu' oftcnded at
their riotous orgies, and, as he struck out the foundations of the hill, it sank in
deep waters, carrying down all the assemblage of the feasters. Of all the tribe
one woman alone was saved (m an island which still stands in the lake. (Jn
Ktill, clear days, a great submerged forest may be seen under the deepest waters.
A village of the Narragansetts once gave the Nii)nuicks (who inhabited this dis-
trict) a grand soa-slioic least of clams and tish. The next year they were invited
into this hill-country to eat vcnLsou in the wigwams of the Niiunucks. But a
quarrel arose during tlie feast, and the guests from the sea-shore were massacred.
The Narragansett tribe took action on the matter, and marched a strong force
into the Nipmuck country, only to receive a severe defeat at the fords of the
Quinebaug.

5 M. W. of Daysville is Pomfrct, which was settled by Roxburj' (Mass )
people on the rich lands of .Masli;inio(|uet, in the year 1087. In Pomfret is the
Wolf Den, where the intrei)i(l Putnam descended in the darkness, ahme, and killed
a great wolf which had been the terror of the town.

S. of Ponifrt't anil 4. M. W. of Danielsonville is the y)retty village of Brook>
lyn (Putnam House). This is the county-seat of Windham Co., and has a re-
fineil and cultivated society, while its broad streets are lined with stately trees
and line mansions. The Unitarian Chtu-ch, on the Green, is the oi.iy church of
that sect in the State, and the buildiug is more than a century old. Celia Bur-
leigh is the pastor of thi.s society.

BOSTON TO NEW YORK.

Route 10. Ill)

flip village,
iiicirt'lcd by

, a sechuletl
; cniiipai^jns
)ii. lie lod
ith them at
b its hciul ill

orn at Ash-
wdundcd at
1 May, lH(il,
aii<l s<'V(ial
my lu-ar tho
Uii.oii, Imt
as his own,
linj'' to Hfc,
:. dead wliil«
iiie(.>*3(>,0')())
er a sohiim
1 the villa^^o

ic day Avhilo,
iger rode up
111. Do you
le none but
of Asliford

President of
3ha A. Grow

1 largely in
fancy cassi-
ions are in
districts of

is attached
lial days, tho
s lake. But

ollcnded at
11, it sank in
ill the tribe
lake. (Jn
pest waters.
,ed this dis-
were inviteil
(•ks. But a
niassaeird.
strong force

fords of the

mry (Mas.s )
iit'ret is tlie
e, and killed

of Broctk>

nd has a le-
stately trees
y church of
Celia Bur-

Tsinel Putnam, bom nt Salem, Mass., in 171S, settled within the present limits
«>r Brooklyn in \'i'M^. From 17.'>'> to I7<!'i, lie foti^jht in the I'Yencli wars, and was
nt the cajiture of Crown Point, .Montreal, and Havana. He then returned to
Brooklyn anil remainrd there iiiitii om<' flay, when he was ploii^'hiiiK on his farm,
the news of the battle of Lexington came <lown tlie country. The plon^li was
left in the furrow as the old veter.m sprant,' on liis fleetest horse and rode toward
the scene of battle. He rai.sed a re^'iment in Wiiidliam L'nunty ; was nii'N' u
ma.t.-f?en. in the Continental Army ; and was one of the leaders at the f1i;lit on
Breed's Hill. He conimandcd at New York, at Princeton, and in the Huds >u
Highlands, until he was forced to retire frr>m active service on account of his a,i;e.
II is old farmhouse still stands, and his remains aro obscurely buried in a cenio-
tery S. of the village.

Danielsonville i.s tlie seat of extensive factories on the water-power
furnished by the Quinebaug River. Cotton cloth and shoc-makuig are
the principal indu.strie.s.

Stages run thnce daily to Brooklyn, and other lines run to WillLmantic, S.
Killingly, and ProviLlence (the latter route crosses tlie State of li. I.).

Stations, Wauregan (village W. of the station), Quinebaug Pond (3 M.
long) is a pretty lake, where the " Narragansetts' fisliing-light " rises in
the form of a pillar of fire, at midnight, once in every seven years. Such
is the old legend, and dwellers in the country-side claim to have seen this
fiery column blazing over the centre of the pond. The large Wauregan
Mills (cotton sheethigs) are situated in this village.

Stations, Central Village (with several factories), Plainfield Junction
(wi, ere the line cro.s.ses the Hartford, Providence, and Fishkill R. R. ),
Je\/'.tt City, and Greeneville. ' At the two latter places are large factories.
The Quinebaug River is crossed at Jcwett City, and soon after the train
passes through a rock-tunnel 300 ft. long. At Norwich the cars run on
the New London Northern Line, and reach the steamboat wharf at New
London late in the evening.

After going on board the steamboat, passengers usually retire, and sleep
while she moves through the quiet waters of Long Lsland Sound. Arising
early in the morning, a fine view is obtained of the eastern environs and
the city of New York. The boats land at Pier 40, North River, and
from the next pier runs the ferry to Jersey City, Avhich enters there
the terminal station of the railroads to Philadelphia and Washington,
the South and West. ,

When the section of the track between \Villiinantic a'ld Middletown is completed,
the "Sew York and Boston Air L.ine will go into operation. From
Boston to Putnam this line is the same as Route 10, and from New Haven to New
York it is the .same as Route 8. It is much shorter than the other routes, but
passes tiirough a less interesting country.

Itl I

120 Route 20. HARTFORD TO SALISBURY.

' Boston to Wnonsocket.

Trains leave the Boston and AUmny Station. DiHtanco to Woonsockc*.. 37i M.
Fare, $1.10.

The line soon divorRCS from the Albany track, and pasHes the ntations, Bro<»!<-
llne, Kcservoir, and Chestnut Hill (see Iloute 2). Newton is then entered, a
Ian?e and iiieturesnut! town, alM)nndiiiK in aul)urban villaKcs. In KMO the Apostle
Eliot rame to tlie iiidinn viliani' of Nonaiitiini, in this vicinity, and after a formal
reception by the a;,'cd chief and the m<^diciiie-iiicn, he unfolded to them tlie tenets
of Christianity. A lar^*; i>art of the tribe accj'jitcd his teachings. forme<l a church,
and adopted the laws and customs of the cohuiists. Near Newton Centre, on
a far-viewiuK hill, are the buildiuKs jiertainiuK to a Thcolo^'ical Institution of the
Baptist denomination. This school is in hiKJi rci)utation, ami has grown rapidly
Bin(!e its foundation in IS-Jf). Tiie course of stu<ly covers three years.

Stations, Newton Ilighlanfis, Upper Falls, Iligldai'dville. 'U]tper Falls is a
manufacturing village where the track crosses tlie Charles River. At Charles
River Station the river is again crossed. Tlie line now ]ia,sses through the towns
of Dover, Metllicid, Medway, and Uclliiigham, twice cro.ssing tiie sinuous valley
of the Charles. MedHeld retains the memory of a fierce attack by a swarm of
Indians led liy King riiilii>, wlio " rode an cicgnut horse." f>i) houses were Inirnt,
20 of the villagera killed and many made jtrisoners, but finally the pco])le got an
old cannon into position and drove off the invaders. John Wilson, .Ir.,agrafiuatc
of the first Harvard class, was pastor, ]ihysician, and sciioolmaster of the village
front 1G51 to 10!)1. The stations beyond Ciiarles lliver, are Dover, Medfield, E.
Medway. Medway, W. Medway, Cary's, N. Bcllingham, Heiiingham, E. Blackstone,
and Woonsocket (see Route lO). At Woonsocket a counectiou is made with tho
l*rovidence and Worcester Railroad.

20. Hartford to Salisbury and Mlllerton.

Via the Connecticut Western R. II. Distance, 02 M. to Salisbury ; 60 M. to
Millerton.

After leaving the Union Station at Hartford the line nins N. W. towards
the high hills which bound the valley of the Conn. Stations, Blue Hills,
Bloomfield, Scotland, TarifTville (large carpet factories), and Simsbury
(see Route 15). At this point a connection is made with the New Haven
and Northampton R. R. (Route 15). Stations, Stratton Brook, and New
Hartford. The latter town was formerly of much importance, being a halt-
ing-place on the great western wagon road, from Hartford and S. E. New
England to Albany and W. New Yc k. At present it is engaged in the
manufacture of cotton and steel goods. Stations, Winsted (see Route 16),
W. Winsted, Norfolk. This is a pretty village ( Norfolk House, $ 10 - 1 2
a week) with mountains on every side. Before tlie church is a Green, with
a monument *' to the memory of soldiers of this town who died for their
country in the War of the Rebellion." The soil of Norfolk is cold, rugged,
and stony, and it in written that, of the 50 proprietors who boiaght
the town in 1742, after inspection of the tract, 49 forfeited their
claims and the moneys paid on them. Tlie dairy biisiness at one time
flourished here, but the town has been failing slowly for years : in the
month of April, 1872, 75 persons moved away from it. The hotel is a
large, quiet summer-house in the valley, and from the hills over it are
obtained views of the Sheffield Mt.'=;. through long lowland vistas. The

SALIStlUUY.

J{'>ii(e20. 121

:ct: 37J M.

nil, Broo!<-
pnterod, a
he Apnstl**
i;r a forni.il
I the tenets
laclnmh,
Uentre, on
Mm of thn
ivn rapifUy

Falls Ih a
\t Charles

the towDH
ions valley

Hwarm oi
i^ere burnt,
jtle got ail
, agrafhiate

the villagn
l.'dliehl, K.
llaekstone,
ie with tUo

; 60 M. to

towards
lie Hills,
Simsbury
w Haven
and New
ng a lialt-
E. New
in the
onto 16),
$10-12
en, with
for their
, nigged,
bought
d their
ne time
in the
tel is a
it are
s. The

most iiroininont elevation in the vicinity is the massive llnyatack Mt.
(footputii to the suinniit)^ from which a very extensive prospect is enjoyed,
stretching from Mt. Everett in Mass. to the Mts. of New York. About
5 M. from the village are Cainel's Falls, wl'i'h are attrac^tive after heavy
rains. The line now follows the valley of ne lilai'khon'y River to its
junction with the Housatonic, crossing at Canaan Station the llousatonic
Railroad (Route 17) and River. After jiassing the stations, Twin Lakes,
Chapinville, Salisbury, Lakeville, Ore Hill, and State Line, all in the town
of Salisbury, the line enters the State of New York, and at Millerton
connects with the Harlem, the Dutchess and Columbia, and the Pough-
keepsie and Eastern Railroads.

Salisbury.

" O, this silenro in the air, tliis sileneo on the nioiuitains, this silenre on the

lakes On either side, to the K. and to the W., ever-vaiyiiiK niountain-

forni.s frame tlie hdiiznn. There is a eonstant succfssiofi (iC iiills swelling into
ni(iuntairis, and (»f mountains llowiii;,' down int ■ liiils. J'lie hues of grt'iui in
trees, in grasses, and in various harvests are endlessly eontrasti'd. At Salisbury
you come und»;r tlie shadow of the Taeonie Han^'*-. Here you may well spend a
week, for the sake of the rides and the objects of euriosity. 4 Jf to the E. are
the Falls of the Housatonic, called Canaan Falls, very lieaufllV.l, .ind worthy of
much longer study than they usually get. I'rospect liill, not far tVoni I'.dls Vil-
lage, alfords altogether tlie must beautifid \ iew of any of the many peaks witli
whi(di this neighborhood abounds." (This, and the other (piotatious under Salis-
bury, are from B<'eclier's Star Papers).

Ilotels, Harnard HoiLse, ;?2.00 per day ; Miller's Hotel, at ri.ikeville ; ami a large
summer boarding-house next to St. .John's Cliureh (IJjiis.) in Salisbury village.

The road to Falls Village leads for 2 M, down a naiTow valley rich in
grain, and then to the E. over bold spurs of Wolonanchu Mt. with Pros-
pect Mt. on tlie 1., and rapiilly changing views of the Housatonic Valley.
Or, without crossing Wolonanchu, the road down the valley may be fol-
lowed to the hamlet of Lime Rock and the borders of the Mts. of Sharon.

A favorite excursion is to tlie Bald Peak on Mt. Big'a. From S.ilislmry
to the Mountain Pond on Riga it is 4 M. of easy .iscent, most of the way
along the edge of a ravine filled with resounding, but invisible, ca.scade-s.
A road leads along the i)lateau to the base of Bald Peak, whence the as-
cent must be made by a rude path. The view from the sunmiit is very
exten.sive, emliracing on the W. the Oblong, Buck, and Catskill Mts. in
N. Y., on the S. the wilderness of high hills which form Sliaron, on the
E. Canaan Mt., Rarack M;i!itT, and the lakes of Salisbury, and on the N.
Race, Alander, and Everett Mts. in Mass. From (he little cluster of
houses near the pond on Mt. Riga, one c.n return to Salisbury, via Lake-
ville, by a road over the brow of the hill, or by a slightly longer road
(8 M.) leading down the side of a water-C(nirse with pretty views of tin;
lakes, to Ore llill (4 M.), the centre of tlie iron-mining industries of the
town. There are 5 iron-mines in Salisbury, employing 240 men, and sup-
laying motal to the forges, anchor-work:-, and foundries which abound on
t>

122 Rn,itc20.

SALISRUUY.

i.jf

.4' '
■,4(

- I. i

\i '..' (

the etrcftms of N. W. C'omi. In April, ^801, tlie iiiimTs of Salislnny
Bent loo tons of iron to the gov(>rnin«*nt, to Im; niiMlu into cannon-balls.
From ()r(! Hill (wlii<;l; is within l.l M. of the New York lino) tin- road lies
near tlu' railway track, and jiass((s to Iiak('vill(',2i M. from the nunos.
A'' the road passes the lakes \V(piionka)K)k and Wonoiisrapamue, pleasant
views are oljtained, ^nd the nits, on the S. rise rlearly above their <iniot
waters. Between the road and the latter lak«^ is seen the .stately old iian-
aion of the Jlolley family, bnilt by the Governor of that name, and the
liirthplace of Horace liolley, the Unitarian divine, long President of
Transylvania Tniversity, and of O. L. Holley, the N. Y. lawyer and
Joiinialist. On the shores of the same lake are seen the larpe white
buildings of the State Hospital for the hnliecile, where, by skilful treat-
ment, the thought-germs in stricken minds are <leveloped into action, use-
ful instruction is iin])arted, and many heretofore useless i)ersons are
elevated, and sent forth as self-sustaining members of society. The Hos-
pital aiconnnodates almut 50 patients, and is situated on a hill which
commands line views of the lake and of Indian Mt. After leaving these
charndng lakes, a ri<le of 1^ M. brings one to Salislmry. Mr. Beecher
Huggests that aff&r leaving Bald Peak, the road may be taken to Brace
Mt. and the Dome, "thence to that grand ravine and its wild water,
Ba.sh-Bish, — a ride, in all, of about 18 M., and wholly along tlni moun-
tain-bowl."

*Ba8h-Bish Falls are about 12 M. from Salisbury village, and near
C*opako station on the Harlem R. U. This is a beautiful little waterfall,
which has been well i)ainted by Kensett, and was much visited before the
destruction of tlie hotel by fire.

4 M. N. of Salisbury is * *' Sage's Bavine, ■whicli is tlio antithesis of
Bash-Bish. Sage's Ravine, not without grandeur, has its principal at-
tractions in its beauty ; Bash-Bish, far from destitute of beauty, is yet
most ren)arkal)le foi- grandeur. Y \\ are solitary, rugged, full of rocks,
cascades, grand waterfalls, and a savage rudeness tempered to beauty ami
softness l)y various and abundant mosses, lichens, flowers, and vines. I
>vould willingly make the journey once a month from New York to see
either of them. Just beyond Sage's Ravine, very beautiful falls may be
seen utter heavy rains, which have been named Norton's Falls." The
way to the ravine leads along the under-mountain road (4 M.). Just
before reaching a blacksnuth's shop at the bridge over a rill from the hills,
there is a small hut on the 1., and the field-road turns in alongside, by tak-
ing down bars. It is best to leave horses outside, and, entering tlie fjcM,
take the first path to the r. and follow the strciim up the ravine. The
principal falls are know as the Lower, Twin, and Upper Falls (well re])-
resented in a series of 12 stereographs). A vague path follows up the
1. side of the water (r. bank), "which, if you love solitude, wihlness, and

If'':

.1
•i

SALISBURY.

Unutr JO. 123

Salislnivy
lOli-ballH.
I road lies
le nnnP8.
, ploasant
ifir iiuict

old iian-
!, aim tlui
sidt'iit of
wycr and
rcrt' 'vvliito,
Iful trcai-
:tion, iise-
ifsons art'

The n OS-
hill which
ving thfso
r. Beechcr
I to Brace
'\V\ water,
tlic monn-

, and near
wateri'all,
before tlio

thesis of
icipal at-
ty, is yt,
of rocks,
L'auty and
vines. I
rk to see
s may be
Is." The
.). Just
the hills,
!, by tak-
he fifld,
ine. The
well rei>-
up the

Iness, am

beauty, will bo worth all the pains you may take to ili'ub throij^h it.
One retjuires a goo«l foot, a strong hand, and a (dear head, and then thero
is but little danger," though the path is soon lost in a perfect chaos of
rocks. Heavy gloves and boots are necessary, and the ascent is not rec-
ommended for bulies, although several have accomplished it. An obscure
mo'iMtain road leads to the vicinity of the upper tul of the ravine, hut
the descent is harder than the ascent.

From Salisbury, by Sage's Ravine, N, into Massachusetts, runs tho
unth^r-niouiitain road, along the foot of theTaconic Range, toShcllicld a;i<l
the Herksldre Hills. Frf)m the ravine to Salisbury, visitors .sometimes
return by way of the Twin Lakes, a longer but pleasanter rout(^

The * Twin Lakes are gained from Salisbury by a road i)asHing alon^
the low spurs of Rarack Mat ill" Mt., with the isolated mass of Lion's Head
on the W. The beautiful lakes of Washining and Washinee are soon
re.ached, and tin; high hills in the vicinity (Tom's Mt., Roar Mt.) are seiMi
mirrored in tln-ni. Near the S. shore of Washinee a road diverges to the
1. through the thick pines, to a remarkabh* cave. This was but lately
discovered by a hunting dog chasing a small animal into it, and tho
hunters, uneasy at his long absence, tore away the di'hi'ia from the hole
and entered. At a hut near the cave, where the keys are kept, visitors
can get appropriate <;lothing, lights, and refreshments. The main cavern
has been explored for about 700 ft., and its course trends steadily down-
ward. The curious forms assumed by stalagnutes are well shown here.
In one place a stone lady is .seen, facing the wall ; in another, vast num-
bers of stalactitic candles depend from the roof ; and nunu'rous other
marvels are found by imaginative visitors. The village and station of
Chapinsville is situated near the lakes. Mr. Reecher speaks of the lake
rides as " extremely beautiful. But they should always be afternoon
rides ; for these discreet lakes do not choose to give out. their full channs
except at about an hour before sunset."

Rides are taken from Salisbury through the romantic hills of Cornwall
and Sharon, and even as far as Great Barrington (N.), and Litchfield
(S. E.).

S.ilislMiry was first sottleil by tlie Dutch in 1720, who lived in iie;i(>e with the
lufliiiii triltc wlio lield the valley iiml of w'loiii no reli(^ reiiiJiiiis save the quaint
niuiies which tliey Kiive to hil^cs and Mts. This was tiie I'artliest ailvaiice of \\w
timid Hollanders on that Aloiiie land (the ])ri'sent Mass., Coini., and Vt.), which
was |)ortriye,d on theinn i]is by a blank wliite spac(!(!ts (Jreenland is on our niajis^
hiscribfd with the cool word " Winterbei;;." The word " llousatonic " has given
rise to more controversy ainou^' anticiuarians and jdiilologists than almost any otlier
Indian word, and one j,'ood ant hority removes it from an abori'^dnul derivation,
and diinis that it is a enplionit! ehaui^e of "Westenhok" (Western corner or
nook), the name given to the Dutch settlement here as beint; in a western nook of
the riiLfged hills which stretch away E. toward the Coim. River. But in 1740 tlie
restless .\n.s:h)-American wave of advance reached this point. There are no Dutcii
or Indians there now.

124 Route 21. BOSTON TO NEW YORK.

{

21. Boston to New York.

The preat Express route, via Sprin^rtloM and Hartford. There are three through
express trains (lail.v in 8-0 hours. Uistamc, 2136 M. ; fare, S6.00. This is the
most popular and ]>leasant of the railway routes to Nevi' York, i)as3ing through
the large eities of Worr-est^r, SprinKfloM, and Hartford, and following the rich
valley of the Connecticut for a great (lislance. Elegant parlor and sleeping cars
are attached to all through trains. ]5y leaving Boston at in the morning, one
ran pass over this route by daylight ; while by leaving at 9 o'clock, P. M., one
sleeps all night (.S 2.00 lor a berth in the sleeping-car) and reaches New York at
6.30 o'clock in the morning.

Tlie train leaves the tenninal de])ot in Boston (comer of Beech and
Lincoln Sts. , PI. 35, ), and passes out over the Back Baj- lands. Charles
River is approached on the r., and a fine view is given of the compact and
more ancient parts of Boston, crowned by the Stal e House dome. Beyond
the city, and apparently at the end of the lake-like widenings of the river,
the populous heights of Charlestown are seen, while Cambridge lifts her
spires on tlie nearer western shores. Tlie line crosses the town of Brook-
line, studded with pretty suburban villages, and stops at Brighton (Cattle
Fair Hotel), celebrated for its great cattle-market. The stock-trains on
this r-'ilroad bring immense numbers of cattle, sheep, and swine from
the Wesfc, which are here made into beef, mutton, and pork, for the daily
needs of Boston. The sheds, yards, and pens cover many acres, and the
business has been increasing for scores of years. As far back as 1837, the
yearly sales were 82,500,000, N. of the station is seen the tower on Mt.
Auburn, and the U. S. Arsenal at Watertown, on the other bank of the
Charles, Newton is next entered, a wealthy suburban town (valuation,
$18,000,000), with a population of "13,000, Newton Corner is near the
ancient Nonantum Hill, Avhere the Apostle Eliot first preached to the
Indians (probably the present Mt, Ida, from which a pleasant view :s
obtained). This village has a jjublic library in an elegant and costly stone
building, and three or four churches. From tl) is point to Walthara it is
3-4 M,, to the W;dcrtown Arsenal and Mt. Auburn, 2-3 M., and to the
Baptist Theological Seminary at Newton Centre, 2-3 M. S. Tlie line
now passes Newtonville (H M. N. of Grove Hill Cemetery), W. Newton
(2 M. S, of the Watch Factory at Waltham), and Auburndale (the seat of
the Laselle Female Sen)inary), Tliese villages are all in the town of
Newton. From Riverside Station, a branch track runs S. to the manu-
factories at Newton Upper Falls. Stations, Grantville (a factory and
residence village), and Wellesley. a picturesque suburban village, near the
art-embellished shores of Lake Wauban. 2 M. beyond Wellesley the
train reaches

Natick (Summer St. House), " the place of hiils." a large town near
the river Charles, engaged in the manufacture of shoes. A large hat-fac-
tory is located here, also a base-ball manufactory, where many women
are emrlnvcd.

BOSTON TO NEW YORK.

Route 21. 125

three through
This is the
sing tlirough
nug the rich
sleeping cars
morning, one
k, P. M., one
New York at

Beech and

Is. Charles

jonipact and

ne. Beyond

of the river,

[ge lifts her

7\\ of Brook-

ihton (Cattle

ick-trains on

swine from

for the daily

res, and the

as 1837, the

)wer on Mt.

jank of the

(valuation,

is near the

:hed to the

ant view :.s

costly stone

iltham it is

and to the

The line

W. Newton

(the seat of

le town of

the mami-

"actory and

ffc, near the

;llesley the

town near
rgc hat-fac-
iny women

In IC'il the Cliristian tribe of Xonantnni, whicli had oiiibracoil the faith after
the preaching of Hliot, removed to Natick, wiiere they formed a government
based on tiie ISth eiiapter (if Kxodiis, with rulers of Inindreds, df lifties. and of
tens. Tlieir villag'» consisted of tliree streets lined witli gardens and huts, a
building for a elmreh and sehool, a large, cireular fort, and a bridge over the river.
Tlie Bible was translited into theii language by Kliot, and i>ublished at Cani-
bridL,'e in 1(>()3 (second edition in IGSO). whose title-page read as follows :
"Mamusse Wunneetnpanatamwe T.'i> Bidlum God Naneeswe Nukkone Testament
i;a!i Work Wusku lestanient." But despite the tender care of the colony, the
Indian church and tribe sutl'ered the usual fate of inferior races in the presence of
Aiiglo-Amuricans, and died out from the operation of internal causes. In trans-
1 iting the passage, " And the mother of Sisera looke<l out at the window, and trried
t ' rough the lattice," in searching for an Indian etpiivaleut for the word " lattice,"
,'ifter much labor Eliot found a b.irbaric jdirase which was printed for it in his
Bible. Many years after, he found that his word for "lattice" meant "eel-pot,"
it:id th'j ludicrous change in the text excited much merriment in Cambridge.

Just N. of Natick, across the track, and visible from the train soon
after leaving the station, is Cochiluate Lake, from which the water supply
of Jioston is carried to tha*; city by a long and sinuous aqueduct.

Station, S. Framiugham (restaurant in the station), near wldch is
Harmony Grove, and the camp-ground of the 52 Methodist churches of
thy Boston circuit.

S. Franiingham is the centre of a system of divergent railroads,

A braiicli of the Bosto'i anil Albany track runs 8. 12 M. through the farming
town, Holliston, to Milfonl, a town of io.ODO inhabitants. Ktiiges run from Milford
to Mendon (celebrated for its apples), Uxi>ridge, and Upton.

The Boston, Clinton, and I-'itchburg R. R. brings its various divisions to a
centre at this point. The MaiisticM ami Franiingham Division runs hence IS M.
fc>. E., jtassiug the stations, ^^lleri)orn, Medfield .1 unction ((connecting with Woon-
socket Division of the B., IT., and Erie R. 11.), IMedtield, Walpole (connecting
with the N. Y. and N. E. R. li ), S. Walpole, Foxboro', and Mansfield. At the
litter station connections are made with the Boston and Providence Railnmd, and
witli the Taunton Bi'anch Railroad.

The Lowell Division runs from S. Franiingham to Lowell, 2S M. N. Stations,
Framingliam and Sudbur;, . Sudbury was settled in KiliS, and in 1(170 was
till! sciuie of a bloody contest, wiieii 70 men, marcliing to relieve Marlboro',
were ambushed here by Indians. 2(5 of the colonists were killed on the field,
and the remainder were lairtunjd. and mmy of tliem were put to deatii by ter-
rible torlures. A monument to their memory was erected on the field, by President
Vi'adswortli, of Harvard College, whos(; father was captain of the defeated jiarty.

In Sudbury was a famous old tavern in tlit; colonial days, which, during the
niarcli of tlu; western counties' militia on Boston, was a busy jdace. This is the
" Wayside Inn " of Longfellow's poems, the purer, fairer Caiiterboi-y Tales of
American hterature:--

" As ancient is this hostrlry
As any in the lnnd insiy be.
Built in the (ilU Ci.linml diiy,
Wien men lived in ii grander way,
With ampler hospitality.

A region of repose it seems,

A place of slumber and ot dreams,

Remote among the wooded hilla."

The cliaracters represented among the story-tellers "around the fireside at
tlieir etise " were as follows : The Landlord, "grave in his aspect and attire," was
Squire Lyman Howe, of Sudbury. The

" Student of old h(X>k« and ways,
Witli tales of Florei and Blunchetleur
Sir Feruaibrus, Sir Eglumour, "

was young Uenry Wales. The young Sicilian,

i
I

120 Route 21.

BOSTON TO NEW YORK.

t ■-■t

• : I

" In sight of Etna bred and born,"

was Luigi Monti, American ronsnl at Palcnno. The " Theolo;^ian, from tlie
sihool of C;uiibri(l},'(; on tlit- Charles," was I'rof. Trea<lwt'll, of Harvard. Tlie
I'oet was T. W. I'arsons, of Boston, translator of Dante's "Inferno," and author
of many short jxieins. The "blue-eyed Norseman," who bore the Stradivi;rius
violin, " a miracle of the lutist's art," and sang the Saga of King Olaf, was Ole
Hull.

B(>yond Sudbury is W. Coneord, where the FitehT)urg Railrf)ad crosses the
jiresent route. Station, Aeton (Monunu-nt House), whence marched a eomjiany
(if minute-men, who wc re among tin; lirst engugeil at the battle of Coneord. Their
captain was killed at thti ti.,'ht by the bridge. The line crosses the towns of Car-
lisle ami Chelmsford, and stojis at Lowell.

Another division of tliis railroad runs from S. P'ramingham to Fitrhburg. Sta-
tion, Framingham Centre, built around a lev<d (Jreen, in a large farming town.
The great tide of travel between Boston and the West formerly passed through
this village, which then had a famous inn. The town hall, old church, and
Academy (foundeil IT'.i-) front on the Green. The line now ])asses across the
farming town of Southboro', and enters fair and fertile Marlboro'. This was the
site of the Christian Indian village of Okomniakamesitt, and was colonized bj'
Sudbury jteople in 1G.")5. Its lirst pastor (IWO- 17t>l) " uniforndy refused baptism
to children Itorn on the Sabbath." At Marllioro' the pres<'nt route connects with
a branch of the Fitchlnirg Radroad. Northboro' is the next town, and is devoted
to farming and cattle-raising. The village churchyard contains tlie grave of the
Rabbi Ju<lah Monis, who renounced .ludaism in favor of Christianity in 1722, and
became teacher of Hebrew at Harvard College, where he remained till his death
in 17(>1. The train crosses the Assabet River E. of the station, and then passes
on through the town of Berlin to Clinton (Clinton House), a busy village at the
junction of the Worcester and Nashua Railroad. At Pratt's Junction the Fitch-
burg and Worcester Railroad is crosstnl, and the train runs across Leominster,
with occasional views of Waehusett Mountain on the W. The central village of
Leonunster is finely situated. Soon altjr
Fitchburg.

leaving this station the train reaehea

From S. Fr.iininfjhaiii the main line follows the Sudbury River, which
it often approaches and once or twice crosses. Stations, Ashland (Cen-
tral House), Cordaville, Southville, and Westboro' (Westboro' Hotel).
This is the seat of the State Reform School and a large water-cure estab-
lishment. 3.^ M. S. E. of the station are llie H«2)kinton Springs (small
hotel) near the large and handsome Whitehall Pond, aboundijig in fish.
There are three springs, all ditterent, and carlionate of lime and iron are
the chief ingredients. This was formerly a fashionable resort, and is on
the old Indian domain of Maguncook.

Station, iirafton (the Indian Hassanamesit), Avith 3 small hotels, on a
resei'vation of 4 M. scjuare, givi.n by the colony to a tribe of Christian
Indians. Shrewsbury is a toAvn j..st N. of the track, where was born
Artemas Wafd, major of tlie 8th Mass. Reg. at the siege of Louisbourg
(1758), and commander of the army besieging Boston until the arrival of
Washington. Levi Pease was born here, who started the finst line of
mail stages between Boston and New York (1784), previous to which a
fortnightly mail was borne between the two places, and contained in
a pair of saddle-bags.

Station, Millbury (near New England Village), whence a short branch
track runs (3 M.) to Millbury village. The line now ttinis to the N. and
runs above and near Quinsigamond Pond, a pretty lake, 4 M. long, nat-

n, from the
rvard. Tlie
iuitl .'nitlmr
Stradiv;;riu.s
laf, was Ule

crosses I lie

a ooiDjiany

icord. Thoir

wns of Car-

iT)tirg. Sta-
iiiiiij,' town.
(fid t!iron;.di
■hurrli, and

I across tlie
his was tlie
:)Iiinizod by
^(xl baptism
iinects witli
^1 is devoted
xrave of the
in 17'22, and

II his death
Lhen ])assc3
Uage at the
1 the Fitch-
Lconiinster,
. village of
aiii reaches

ver, whicli
and (Cen-
o' Hotel),
lire estab-
nr/s (small
ig in fish,
iron are
siiul is on

tels, on a
Christian
was horn
3uisbourg
rrival of
t line of
which a
ained in

|t branch

le N. and

)ng, uar-

BOSTON TO NEW YORK.

HmUe21. 127

row and deep, with 12 islands in it. Tlie college boat-races have often
taken place on this pond. Shrewsbury's spires are seen afar, over its
waters.

Worcester.

Hotels. * Bay-State House, §3.50, corner Mainan<l Exehange : Waldo House,
§'J..")ii, Waldo St., near the station ; Kuropean Uou.se ; Ivxi'hange Hotel.

KeailiiiK-Ilooins* At the Free Library, 121m St., nea." Alain : Y. M. C, As-
siteiation, I'earl St.

Horse>Car8on Main St., from Webster Park to Harrington Avenue.

Stages to Quinsigamond. S. Wonester, Oakham, Shrewslmry, and Marlboro',
Leii'ester and Spencer, Webster and Oxford, Faxton, Coldbi-xik antl Harre.

Railroads, to Frovideiue (Route 10), Norwich, Nashua (Route 13), Albany
(Route '2.'!), IJarre and Gardiner, Fitchburg, and Boston.

Worcester, tlie second city in wealth and population in the Common-
wealth, and the capital of Worcester County, is situated among a group
of hills on the Blackstone River. Its manufacturing interests liave risen
rapidly to a commanding position, being favored by the central location
of the city, and the large railroad system converging there. The popula-
tion is over 50,000. There are 29 churches, 9 temperance societies, 11
bodies of Masons, 3 of Odd Fellows, and 3 societies of Irish, 3 of Ger-
mans, and 1 of Scotchmen.

Worcester claims the name of an academic city, in virtue of its numer-
ous fine schools. Its Classical and English Hi if School employs 4 mas-
ters and 5 assistants, and has a noble buildiiii-, which is surmounted by a
graceful tower terminating in a spire. T'lis tower is a copy of one of
the l)est European campaniles, but is uiKortunately too slender in com-
paiison with the heavy mass of the bui'.ling. Necr Main St. oji the S.
is the celebratctl Oread >S^illinary for young ladies, in pictuies(pie stone
buildings located on a hill and sui'ounded by ti'ees. The castltlike
structure, with embaitled towers, ( n a commanding hill S. E. of the city
was built for a Medical School, but is now used as an academy under the
care of the 1' iptist Cliureh. The Roman Catholic Collcje of the Holy
Cross occupies an extensive range of imposing buildings on Packachoag
Hill, 2 M. S. of the city, . d is well attended by the youth of that church
from all i>;irts of New England. A State Niyrmal School occui)ics a hill
E. of Lincoli Scpiure, and across the valley to the W. are tlie buildings
of the Free ntustrial School (90 students), with lectures, laboratories,
macliiue-shops. md all appliances for learning young men to be practical
architects, carj iitei'S, engineers, chemists, civil engineers, &c. " The
ultunate end of this iiLstitution is the elevation of the mechanic by giv-
•ing him thorough and complete scientific knowleilge on which he may
base his future work." Tiie school is richly endowed, and is free to
young men of this county (others pay $ 100 a jear). Boynton Hall (named
in honor of the founder of the school) is a graceful and ornate stone build-
ing. 1^ M. N. of Worcester is the Hijhhind Military School, widely
known for the stringent thoroughness of its discipline.

128 Route 21. BOSTON TO NEW YOilK,

i' I

l|i

■ *i;

|! i

ii (

I !

'ri. »

V5 * ■
n ' V,;

• i

*»'''

A Slate Lunatic Anylum (on the family plan) is located near the city.
It acconimodate.s 350-400 patients, and is ahoiit to move to a pleasanc
estate near Lake Qiunsiganiond. It now occupies several buildings form-
ing a quadrangle, on a hill E. of the city.

Hope Cemetery in New Worcester, and Rural Cemetery on Grove St.,
are attractive burying-grounds. 2 M. p]. is Quhisiuamand Lake, a long,
deej), narrow sheet of water, on which the college boat-races often take
jdace.

Main St. is about 2 M. long, and contains the principal business houses
and hotels. It is a wide, pleasant street, well lined with trees, and
adorned with some fine commercial buildings. Near its lower end is the
Oread Seminary, and the Jesuit College is seen across a broad valley.
C'entral Park (the Common) is E. of Main St. and contains the Old South
Church and the Bigelow Monument, while four other churches are seen
on its sides. Passing N. on Main St. many fine business blocks are seen,
with St. Pa id's Catholic Church, Trinity M. E. Church, the towers of
the High School, and numerous tall spires on the hills to the 1, On the
r. is Mechanics' Hall, a fine audience-chamber seating 2,500, with a
brown-stone front in rich Corinthian architecture. On side-streets diverg-
ing to tlie 1, in this vicinity are the Post Olllce and the reading-room of
t!ie Y. M. C. A. (Pearl St.), and tlie Free Library (Elm St.). The latter
contains 32,000 volumes, being especially rich in mechanics and medical
works, while its reading-room (oi)en from 9 A. M. mitil 9 P. M.) has 170
different magazines and jtapers, in 4 languages. On Foster St. are the
rijoins of the N.^tural History Society with valuable cabinets (open
Wednesday aftei'uoons). On Main St. beyond Mechanics' Hall and the
Bay State House, is the old Exchange Hotel, a famous iim of the colonial
days, wliere Washington and Lafayette have stopped. Just beyond is
Lincoln Square, where, on a high terrace, are seen the Congregational
Church, the granite Court House with its classic front, and the neat
building (in the Italian architecture) of the * American Antiquarian
Society.

In the latter structure is i)rcsen'ed a valuable library of 50,000 volumes, with
ancient portraits of Sunuu'l, Increase, and Cott<in Matlier and other Puritan
divines ; Governors V/intln-op, Endicott, and other founders of the State. Many
busts adorn the walls, and tliere are lar^'e casts of Michael Angelo's Moses, and
Clirist (bouglit in Rome l)y Hon. .Stephen Salisbury). In glass cases about the
hall are several literary curiosities, ancient black-letter MS8 on vellum (15th
century) ; an elegant I'crsian MS. richly ilhiininated (ilate, l4So) ; 3 Britisli tax-
stamps of 1703 : MS. 8<>rnions of microscopic fineness written by old Piu-itan
pastors; Latin books printed at K(jnie and Venice in 1475-6; Cranmer's Bible
(loIiS) ; Ptolemy's Geography ; missals on vellum ; and a superb * Koran in Arabic,
lirilliantly illuminated. Two cases of Indian relics are near the entrance to the
hall. This collection is open, 9-12, and 2-5 o'clock daily, except Saturday and
Sunday. From the hill bcliind the building, the Free industrial School and the
Nonnal School may be seen.

On t}ie Common, near the Old South Church, is a pretty English Gotliic

BOSTON TO NEW YORK.

Route Jl 129

he city,
pleasanc
gs form-
rove St.,
, a long,
ften take

ss houses
[•ees, and
ul is the
rl valley.
Hil South
are seen
are seen,
owers of
On the
3, with a
(tscliverg-
5-rooni of
'lie latter
tl medical
) has 170
are the
(open
and the
colonial
eyond is
egational
the neat
iquarian

nes, with
r Puritan
e. Many
OSes, and
iibout the
~um (15th
tish tax-
Puritan
ir's Bible
In Arabic,
e to the
rday and
and the

Gothic

monument, built of granite and Tuscan marble, over the remains of
Timothy Bigelow, Colonel of the 15th Mass. Continental Keg. Near this
will be raised (late in 1S73) tlie * Soldiers' Monuniout, whose bronzes are
now cast in Munich. Colossal figures in the uniform of the American
infantry, cavalry, artillery, and marine services will surround a tall Co-
rinthian column, surmounted by a statue of Victory, standing on a globe,
with a drawn sword in her uplifted hand. "The expression of her
beautiful face is full of exultancy and pride. In spite of her colossal size,
slie hardly seems to rest on the ball. Bnt with sucli powerful wings, and
such an innate consciousness of strength, the air itself would be a suf-
ficieut supi)ort."

Tlie Boston and Albany Railroad are at work htre on an elegant new station (on
Wasliin;<ton Snuare), to ho, 514 ft. long ami 250 ft. wide, with an IfaUiau dock-
tower 201) ft. hJKh, all la heavy granite masonry.

In IGUy a legislative coujniittee located a .settlement for 30 families at Worces-
ter (Saxon, Wajcra, Ccastar, War-Castle), a.s a half-way halting-jilace between the
valley-towns and the coast. The eitailel of this evdoiiy wis near tlie i)resent
corner of Main and Columbia Streets. The Indians soon forc<id the evacuation
of the settlement, and it lay desolate from 1702 to 171:5, whtui it was reoccupied,
and stern defensive laws were i)as.sed. A fortress-like church was built (on tln^
Common), and each man was ordered to carry to Sunday services his musket and
G rounds of ammunition. In 1720 scune Scotch Prcsbyttu'ian immigrants built a
church of their own, wliieh was assaulted and torn down by the Puritan colonists
us a cradle of heresy. In 1755 numerous exiled Acadians were sent here, and soon
after the " Massachusetts Spy " newsiiajjer (still i»ul)lished there) began to fan the
flames of revolution. April !'.>, 1775, a breathless njessenger bore into town,
the news of the battle of Lexingtoji. His white horse, flecked with Idood anil
loam, fell dead on Main St., but he rode westward imi another, while the minute-
men moved on Boston by thousands. In July, 177t), tlie Sn.is of Freedom had a
grand feast, and among their toasts were, " May the freedom and independence
of America endure till the sun grows dim witii age, and this earth returns to
chaos." "Perpetual itching without the benefit of scratching, to the enemies of
America." The town sent 27 olHiers and 40'.t men to the army. In 17S6, Worcester
was taken, and its courts closed by 800 of Shays' insurgents, wearing the emble-
matic |>ine-brauch. Father Fifton, on a missi<uiary tour in IS:!!, found foi'.r
Catholic families in Worcester : that denomination now lias four churches in the,
city, including NitttR Dame, (les Cdiudlicii^. Tiie poi»ulation in 18:50 was 4, 0S2. In
18(51, at the very hour when tlie Gth Mass. was lighting in the streets of Baltimore,
the Bigelow Monument was dedicated hero. Said .Judge Thomas at the dedica-
tion, " The cry to-day in the streets (»f tiiis beautiful city is that which 80 years

ago startled the quiet village, 'To arms !' So be it, to arms ! It will co.st

us a long, severe, and bitter struggle, but this rebellion must be crushed out.
There is for us no hope of freedom, of peace, f)f safety even, till this work is fully
done. Seven years of war were spent in the jmrchase of our freedom ; seven more
of toil in giving it organic life. If seven years of toil and lilood are spent in
securing it, in our national redemption, they will be wi.sely, divinely spent,
with the blessing of God and all coming generations of men." Within live months
5,000 men marched from the Park to tlie Potomac. The 15th Ma.ss. (Worcester Co.)
Reg. paraded here before leaving, and received their colors from the ladies. "I
am deputed by the ladies of Worcester to present to you this banner. Eighty-
four years ago to-day there was mustering in these streets the lirst regiment evi!r
raised in Worcester Co. for actual warfare, the 15th Reg. of the Ma.ss. Line. What
hard-fimght fields at Jlonmouth and Trenton, Miiat aullerings at Valley F'orge,
what glory and victory at Saratoga and Yorktown, have made that name famous !
. . . What they won for us, it is yours to luesorvo for us." — Judge Hoak.

Stations, Rochdale (Union Hotol), 4 M. S, of the village of Leicesti r,
U 1

130 Route ^1.

BOSTON TO NEW YORK.

i-ii

^i !

r 'I

on Strawberry Hill, the Indian Towtaid ; Charlton, and Spencer, 2 M. S.
of the village (Sjiencer Hotel), which is on a plateau 9o0 ft. above the sea.
It has a venerable look now, though De Warville (178S) spoke of it as " a
new village in the midst of woods."

Elias Howe, Jr., was bom at Spencer in ISIS. After workiiiK in a Lowell cot-
ton-factory and ri JJoston niacliino-.sliop. he wroUKlitout his great idea of a sewing-
machine, (patentcfl 184G). The idea did not hccdine ]iopidar, and he was forced to
support himself as a raihoad engijeer vintil penury and harsh labor broke his
liealth. After a time, capitalists toolv up his invention, and by their help, after
lon;^ litigation, ho jirovcd his jtrior ri^iht to the patent a^'ainst 'sevend comjietiton*
(ISJ4). Between 18o4 and his death in 1807, he realized $2,000,000 from his sew-
ing-machines.

The line now enters the valley of the Chicopee, passes E. Brookfielfl
(Wesbakira), and stops at Brookfield (Bronkfield Hotel).

This town was settle<l on the Indian lands of Quaboag, by Ijiswich men, in
1060. In KiT.'J a larj^e force of Nipmucks advanced (»n the i)lace. Envoys were
sent out to treat with the Indians, but six of them were killed, and the village
(the present W. HmoklicM) was attacked. Tlie iidiabitants had gathered in a
garrison-house, wliicli, after the rest of the village had been i)lundered and burnt,
v/as attacked by the enemy. Fin- throe long days the house was defended with
desperate bravery, thongli shot and flaming arrows were showered against it.
Then a cart fall of blazing flax and straw was jiushed against it, and the defence
woidd have been ended, but for a sudden shower wliich extinguished' the rising
Jiames. After this shower, which they held to be nnraculous, a brave partisan
oflicer with a trooj> of light horse galloped in from Lancaster, after a forced
march of 30 M., and scattcicd the besiegera. In 1070, the evacuation of the
town was ordered, as a ndlitary necessity, by the Legislature, and it remained
desolate for 12 years. The Quaboag Pond is a large ]»ond S. of the village, whose
waters flow by the iSashaway River through the Podunk Meadows, to tlie Chico-
pee.

Station, W. Brookfield, near the village of heroic memory (Wickaboag
House). These various hamlets of Brookfield are now chiefly noted for
their extensive shoe-manufactures.

Stations, Warren (Warren Hotel), a prettily placed village, near which
is the L)ld Qual>oag Senunary; W. Warren, Brimfield.

In the Brimfield churchyard (.5-6 M. to the S. E.) is buried Gen. "William
Eaton, s(une time an olliccr in the U. H. Army, find then Consul to Tunis. In
180 j he planned the restoration of Hanud, tlie rightful Bashaw of Tripoli, and
marched from Cairo, Egyi)t, with 4<J0 Moslems and 100 Christians, across the
desert. With reckless bravery he stormed the ramivarts of the Tripolitan city of
I)erue, garrisoned by a force larger thiin his own. The United States having con-
cludeil a ]ieacc with the reigning Bashaw, Eaton was forced to nbamlon his
eonquest, and he returned to America, where he died (at Brimlield) in 1811.

Station, Palmer (American House, Nassawanno House), in a flourish-
ing manufacturing town. The State Almshouse in Monson may be seen
to the S. across the Chicopee River.

From this point diverge the Athol and Enfield and the Ware River
Railroads, while the New London Northern Lijie crosses the track here.

Stations, Wilbraham (with the flourishing Wesleyan Academy 3 M. S.)
and Indian Orchard (horse-cars to the village).

, 2 M. S.

; the sea.
it as " a

owell cot-
' a sewinR-

S t"010»''f1 to

broke li«
help, after
omjietitors
n his sew-

Brookficl(i

ch men, in
ivoys were

the viUuge
thcred in a

and bnrnt,
ended with

Hgiiiust it.
the defence
I'the rising
ive iJiirtis.in
er a forced
lii)n of the
it remained
Uage, wliose
tlie Chico-

IWickaboag
noted for

near w

hich

icn. William
Tunis. In

IXvipoli, and
across the

litan city of
having con-

Ibanilon his

i isu.

a flouviah-
[ay be seen

Ivare River
tick here,
iiy 3 M. S.)

BOSTON TO NEW YORK. Route 21. 131

Springfield.

Hotels. * Ma.s.sasoit House (said to set tlie best table in New En;cland). di-
rt'ctly alony'^ide of the stitinn, .S 4 a rhiy ; * Ilaynes's Hotel, a lar^,'c liist-cl.iss
lioiise on M.iiii, nt' ir i'yni-hon St. ; Cooley's Hotel, on Main St., near and N. of
til" Stat inn : I'viiclian House.

Readins-rooins, at the City Library on State St., and the Y. M. C. Associ-
ation, iin Main St.

Horse-cars run on Main St. and to the Armorv and Water Shops.

Railroads leave the central stati m for New York (135 M.), Boston (OS M.).
Albiny (101 M.), and the North.

Si»ringlield was settled by a comi)any under William Pync won, in 16.38, whose
coiuiiact be^an a> follows : "Artiilc I.' Wee intcml, by (Jod's grace, as soon as
wee can, witli all convcnifut siicedi', to procure some godly and faithfull minister,
with whonic wee jiropose to Joyue in cliunli covenant to \v;dk in all the ways of
Christ. ArfcicLi II. Wee intcml tliatour town shall be composed of Iburty family's,
or if wcc think inccte after to change our iiurpo.se ; yet not to excee(l the number
of fifty family's, rich and poore." 'i'lie town wouhl liave been abandoned at one
time but for tlie onlers of the Legisl iture, forbidding the evacuation of Mass.
settlements, whereupon the iieojih' crcctiMl a strong palisade. Grea*^ sutVerin^
was exj>erienc(vl during the first winter, for the freezing of the river prevented
vessels ascending with supplies. Seveial persons .-tartcd for iJoston, ami weiij
frozen on tlie way. Pynclioii, the magistrate of Spriiiglicld, wroti^ an anti-Calvin-
istic theological book in Ki.'jO, which was condemned by tlu^ Legislature and burnt
oil JJoston Common. lb; was d('i)oscd from his otli.e, was forced, amid a storiu
of clerical wrath, to retract, and soon returned to ICuglaud to escajie persecution.
In l(>7o, wliile the train-bands of SpringfieM wtu-e guaiding IbuUey, the Indians
l.tid a ph)t to destroy the phice. Their plan was exposed by a friendly Indian
at Win<lsor, whence a ri<ler was despatched, who reacliml Sjiringfield at dead of
night, and aroused tlie iieople. .Inst as they had gained the shelter of three gar-
rison-houses, 6)0 Indians cntereil tliestreets and burnt every otluT house in town.
They successfully disjiuted the passige of tlie river against Major Treat's com-
mand, ami only retired at tlie approach of M:i.jiu' Pynehon and *J00 men from Had-
ley, leaving behind them a sad scene of ruin and d(!structi'in. During tiie Hevo-
lutiou works for repairing muskets were c-;tablished here, and also a caiintui-
foundry, at whicli were cast tlie guns of several of the lotteries which were en-
gaged in the battles near Saratoga. Jan. 2'), 1787, t,2ii0 of Shays* rebels attacked
tlie Arsenal, which was defended by 1,100 militiamen. A few cannon-shot dis-
])ersed the assailants. During the present century Springfield has grown r.ipidly,
by reason of the establishment here of the U. S. Armory and iiiiiiierous other
manufactures, and by the convergence, at this point, of important railway systems.

Springfield is a handsome city of ahout 28,000 iiihahitaiits, situated on
the E. bank of the Connecticut River. Its ])rincipal thoroughfare is Main
St., a wide and level street, 3 M. long, adorned Avith many fine con^mer-
cial buildings. The principal object of interest in tlie city is the
* United States Armory, which is established on a pai k of 72 acres on
Arsenal Hill (E. of the station, and best reached by way of State St.).
The buildings surround a great quadrangle called Union Square, and have
T) -700 men constantly engaged. 1,000 each of the Sharp, Remington, and
Springfield breech-loading rifles have lately been issued to the army lor
test, while the manufacture and alteration of rifles and carbines is con-
stantly going on. During the War of the Rebellion the works were run
night and day for four years, and at one time over 3,000 men were em-
ployed. Nearly 800,000 guns were made during that time, at an expense
of S 12,000,000. The Arsenal is a large building on the W. of the quad-
rangle, in whicli 175,000 stand of arms are stored, rivalling in their sym-
metri.;;tl avr.unrenient th.3 similar colb'ction in th" Tower of London.

-. lit :►

V , ■

^ ' ■ .

132 Route 21.

BOSTON TO NEW YORK.

■■> <

" This iH tlio Arsenal. From floor to poiling,
Like 11 liiiKc oriran, rise tlw l)uriiiNlicii arms ;
But troiii their Kilont pipes no iiiitlicni pealing
Startles the villases wMh straiige aiaring.

Ah! whnt n sound will rise — how wild and flreary —
Wlien the (leatli-nnirel toneiiei those switl keys I

■What loud lirnent nnd disninl Mi^'erere
Will mingle with their uwCiil svmplionics I"

LOXOFELLOW.

From the tower of tlie Arsenal is gained a fine view of the eity and its
environs. Passes for a survey of tl»e shops, &c,, may be obtained at the
Armory ofTice. The eight-liour system is in foree in these works, althougli
mucli of the work is i)aid for by the piece. 1 M. S. E. of the Armory are
the Water-Slio])s, where tlie heavier Labor is done, and where the gun-
barrels are made and tested.

Near the Armory, on the S. E., is the large and beautiful Springfield
Cemetery, covering about 40 acres. Near this, on the S., is Crescent
Hill, with two elegant villas and an extensive and ])leasing view.

On State St., between Main St. and the Armory grounds, are several fine
buildings. The * Church of the Unity (on the r.) is one of the noblest
ecclesiastical structures in the State, an<l, with its cloistered })ortico, broad
windows, and lofty detached tower and sjiirc, it forms a strikingly beau-
tiful ol)ject. It architecture is Gothic, and its matciial is brown stone.
Just above the church is the unicjue and graceful building of the High
School, and oi>posite the cliurch is the * City Free Library, with its
handsome building. A library of 32,000 volumes is contained in a richly
ornamented and well-arranged hall, while on the floor below is a Museum
(open Wednesday and Saturday, 2 - ."> P. lil. ) containing 900 stuffed birds,
120 stuffed qua<lrupeds, and several thousand specimens of fossils, fish,
reptiles, and minerals. There are also cabinets of Indian antiquities, and
several captured Confederate flags. Just al)0ve the Library is the Roman
Catholic Cathedral of St. Michael. Court Stpiare is near the centre of
the city, and has on one side the City Hall, contahiing a hall which can
contain 8,000 persons. S. of Court Square is the * Court House of
Hampden County, a massive new structure of granite, costing .$200,000.
It has a tall tcwer, balconies, and other features drawn from Italian
municipal palaces. The 1st Congregational Church (society founded 1637)
fronts on this sipiare. In 1 M. from the City Hall, passing N. W. on the
busy and attractive Main St., one reaches Round Hill and the Memorial
Church, built of granite in Gothic architecture. Hampden Park, near
by, on the banks of the river, has fine race-tracks, and is used for cattle-
shows. -

There are several fine churches in the city besides those mentioned (20
churches in all). There are 9 Masonic l)odies, 4 of 0<ld Fellows, 7 banks
of deposit, and 3 savings l)aidcs. The valuation of the city in 1872 was
% 30,000,000, and during the sanie year its merchants had $ 20,000,000

OFKLLOW.

ty and its
led at the
?, althongli
irnioi y iiro
! the gun-

■^priiigfield
s Crescent

jeveral fine
he noblest
tico, broad
iiigly buau-
own stone.
r the Iligli
y, with its
in a richly
a ^luseuni
iffed birds,
issils, lish,
uitii's, and
he llonian
centre of
which can
House of
.$ 20(1,000.
)m Italian
nded 1G37)
W. on the
Memorial
Park, near
for cattle-

tioned (20

rs, 7 banks

1872 was

20,000,000

BOSTON TO NEW YORK.

lioulrJI. 133

vii

worth of wholesale trade, mostly from the valley towns which draw their

supplies from this point.

In 1870 SpriiiKliehl liad .'$00 maiinfarturiiiK companios. eniployiiiK J. 000 men aii«l
1,000 woiiiiMi. Amoii^' (ln> ]irincipal works arc those of Smith ami Wrssoii, wlii-rn
(jOO iiKMi are oiiiployt'cl in iiiakiii;,' i>istols. I'liis foiiipaiiy rcci'ivcil in lsv;> onliTS
from the Russian Kovcrnmcnt I'or 40,oiK) revolvers. At IJri„'h \vr>(»il(N'. of th«
city) is tlM! Wa-ioii Car Manula 'tory, wiiose hiiildiiiKs rcijuircil •J.OiKt.diui 1. ricks in
their constrnetioM. 'I'hese works employ too men, an<l turi; ont 1(H) passeii;:r,r
ami 900 - 1,00 » frci;,'ht cars yearly, besides many thonsainl car-wheels. They liavti
ni:idc most of the I'ars for the I'acillc Ilailro.id and the New .lersey Central, an I
also a superb ear for the Kj^yptian Khedive. N'early sou nu-n wore enj^'a^t'd in
this city, durin,:jj tin) Secession War, in the mannfaetr,;-!' of saihlles an<l lieavy
hftrnes.s for the army. They delivered to the government i:^ 'J.-'iOOOOO worth of
those articles. .\t jjresent abont lioo men are employed in makiny; trunks and
haniess.

Station, Longmcadow (the Indian Ma.ssacsic), settled in 1(514 on tlu
long meadows by the Connecticut. It is a jiretty village on a geiitlo
swell near the intervales, and its people are devoted to farnnng.

The State of Conn, is now entered, and the train stops at Thoinpso;i-
ville (Globe Hotel), the seat of the largest carpet-works in the countuy.
Since 1828 this industry has been growing, until now it uses up 9(X) tons
of imported wool each year, and turns out 1,800,000 yards of ingrain and
Venetian carpets, from 141 looms. 3-4 .M. M of this village is the large
community of the Kiifield Shakers. The village of Enfield (settled by
Salem men, in 1G81) is a .short di.stance S. of Thompsonville.

Station, Warehouse Point, where the line crosses the Conn. River by
the * Iron Truss Bridge, a noble piece of engineering, built in Manchester,
England, and set u]) here in 18(5(5. The road-ljcd of 18 ft. wide is sus-
tained 47 it. above the water by wrought-iron tru.sscs, held up by 17
granite piers. The bridge is 1,525 ft. long and cost ,$ 2(55,0(^0.

At Ila/ardville, a few miles X. K.. are the jxiwder-works of Col. Ilazanl. Tlieso
are the largest in Kn,L;lanil or .Vmeiica, and the former cotuitry boni^ht 8 l,2.')0,()iJ')
worth of Hazards powder dnrin;,' the Crimean War, while vast amounts were
made for the United States during the Secession War.

Station, Windsor Locks (Charter Oak Hou.so), with iron and paper
mills on the water-power afforded by a canal ])uilt before the era of rail-
roads to enable vessels to pa.ss the Enfield Falls and gain the Upper Conn.
Tourists were formerly carried from Springfield to New Haven in small
steamboats by this route. Tlie line crosses tl:.. Farmington River by a
fine seven-arched bridge of red sandstone, 450 ft. long.

Station, Windsor (Alford House), settled in l»);]3-6 by men of Dor-
chester, on the rich intervales of Mattaneag.

In addition to harassments from the ten Indian tribes with their 2,000 lx)Wineii
who lived about Mattaneag, the little colony was early attacked by 70 IIolla:id
troops, sent by Gov. Van Twiller. The Dutch expedition retired before the
firm and fearless Puritans, and the Indians soon soUl out. Rev. John Warham,
the i)astor-chicf, who led this nomadic? Dorcostrian (.'hun;!! in its 14 days' march
through the wilderness, was the flrstnf the New England clergy who used notes iu
jireaehing. In 1644 a road was built to Northampton, freight by sea to or from

■

i'i

■

134 Route 21. HUSTON TU NKVV YOUK.

Boston fostiriK at tliis tiiiK; .'J:J prr coiif wl valorem. Mattliow fJmiit <(inic from
Kii;;laiiil to Don hcstcr in H\M, ami thciu-i! went to Winilsor. Tlic t;iiiiily livnl
lit'ic for ovtT a ri'utmy, until Noah (iraiit w.is killcil in tlic battl*^ <>f Lukv »jin»rK«<
(IT'^ti). 'I'liis olliccr waH tiii^ grcat-KranWfatlitir of rrcrtidcnt tirant. llogcr Wul-
f'ott and his son Oliver, governors of Conn. 17.M -4, an<l IT'.Mi - 7, wcro born hen-.
Oliver miswortli. I'. H. Senator, ITH'.i -<•'), ami afterwards Chief Justice of tlifl
U. iS., was horn in-ro in 1745, Another native (if Windsor was (len. I'lielps. who,
with his associates, lioiighl >>( Mass. and Cnnn. !')jM),(Wn iieres of the Western
wilderness, at a noniin.il jirice. These tracts were laid olf in townshijts uml
ran;,'es, .iinl sold to settlers. 'I'liey nnw eonii'rise the counties of Ontario and
Siteuhe:! (New Vi>rl\), and the West' rn lleserve of Ohio.

There is a long, lii'oad (Ireeii near the station, near which are the Wol-
cottantl Moore mansions, and the new Epi.sciopal ('hurch. and ju.st over tlio
river, is the ohl Cong. Church and the Green which was the cradle of
Windsor, and is still called the Talisado. This town grows inucli tobacco,
of which 5,830,000 pomid.s were raised in the county in 1870.

i'-\

Hartford.

Hotelfl. — ' Allyn House, a fliu* brownstone building near the station, nc-

eonoiiodating :iO() guests. !^-\.()i) a day ; * City Jlotel, on Main 8t., ^;:.00a day ;
the I'nited Stat«'S and the American Hote's. nn tlie old Slate House S([uare.

KiUlruads. — The ])resent route to Springlield and Hoston (i'24 M.), New
Haven and Niw Y<u'k (JO;) M.) ; tl ■• Hart!'' d, I'rovidence, and Fishkill, to I'mvl-
dence on the E. (".tO M.) and Waterluiry on the W. (: J M.) ; tin; Conn. Vallc\ U. Jl.
to Saylirook I'oint (44 M.) ; the; Cn.ui. Western, to Salisbury and .Millertfin (Git .M.).

Steainei'8. — Daily to tlie river-l.imlingsand Sag Harbor (Long Island) in the,
monuM-r : daily, in the afternoon, IVu' the lower huulings ; daily for the river-
landing and New York City.

Start's to Fariuington, Ihoad ihoolv M.), Wetherslield, Ro<-ky Hill, Cuiiii-
well, Mailiioro ('JO M.); to IMoondield ami ,-5unsburv, N. Canton, and W. Harllaiid
{■M M.).

lIorM'-Cars nni along Main St. from Sjiring CJrove Cemetery to Wetliersfleld
(7 iM.), aisii finm the New York steanil)oat pier, at the foot of State St., througii
State and Asylum Sts. :J M., passing the li. li. Station and the Deaf and Duml)
Asylum.

Carriages cost ."jne. a cour.se in the city, 7.")e. for 'J jiersons, and .$1.00 for .'{
l)ersons. Oi.ubh! fares 1/etweeu 12 and Oat night. By tlie hour, ."^'i.OO.

Ai»»us«un'ut» and lectures tVeiiuently at Roberts' (»|iera House (an elegant
auditnrium), :; '» .Main St., or at Allvn Hall, on Asylum St. near the .Viiyn House.

Post Office at *252 Main St. Masouie Hall at ;U>a Main St.

*Tlie I'ark (4.') acres) is a iileasaiit resort in the afternoon. It is reached by
several st(uu' brid-cs over I'ark River, and has cost tin city s27(»,(iOO.

Connecticut was tirst explored by the Dutch, one -if whose sturdy mariners,
Adrian lUack, ascended the Conn. River as far as the tinlield Tails in the lO-tou
yaeht, "Onrest" (1(114). In Ki:;:! tlie Dutch built a 2-gun fort, called the "IIir.se
of tJood Hope," (m the present site of Hartford, and lived jieaceably, tilling the

f?round and trailing with the Indians, until June, 1030, when Thomas Hooker led
lis church from Ni'wlown tiuniigli the wilderness, and settkid here. The Park
River a Horded a water-power for a grist-mill, which was speedily utilized, and
Windsor and Wetherslield, lueviously more imixutant, brought their grain here
to be gi'ound. Ihe colony was nameil I'or an olil Saxon town 21 M. N. of London,
derived from "the Ford of Harts." Three watch-towers were built, and the men
of the colony enrolled in train-bands, two thirds of whom had matchlocks,
bandoleers, and rests, while the other third were armed with jiikes 10ft. h>ng. and
guarded the stundaRl. These train-bauds stormed the broach in the Narragan.sett
Fort light. Wuluiuimacut, sachem < it the river tribes, deeded the lands to the
settlers, and gave them a tribute of lie.tver-skins and corn, in return for their jiro-
teetion against I'ekoath, king of the Perpints, and the dreaded Moha\vk«. Under
the influence oi her stern I'uritan pastoi-s, Hartford enacted tlie " Rlue Laws," by

iiiuc fmm
iiiily livod

ogfl' \V<»1-

<•«' of tli6
■Ips, wlio,
(■ WcHlcni
Hhi]i.s uml
iturio aiul

the Wol-
. over tlio
rmllt' of
I tobacco,

uition, fic-

.00 a (liiy '.

M.), New
, to Provl-
illr\ K. R.
»ii (G'.t M.).
11(1) ill llin
the river-

lill, Ciuiu-
Hiirtlaiid

(•tlinsflcld
., throiiK'i
nil Duiiib

1.00 for :{

111 ole^aiit.

11 IIOIISL'.

iuclii'd by

luiniicrs,

ii; lO-tou

" llirse

lUing the

ker kd

If Park

d, and

lain liere

I.iiiidoii,

1 the men

itchlociks.

Ion;;, and

rayansett

Is to the

tiu'ir jiro-

Uiider

aws," by

BOSTON TO XKW YORK,

Hrwh^2t. 135

wlii.'i the i»ennlty of diith wns visit«d for tho criiiifH of Idolatry, imchastity,
wih'liiTift, bl;uit!n'iiiy, in irdiT, iin:i stcilin,', rclicHlon, iiiitiiii,' imn-tit-t, iVc,
with ...iv»j,'e iaw.1 a;,'aiii.it Sibbith-bitakiii;; and tim uhh of tolciccn. In 1705, a
st'iinp I'j'oii'y w,n rdil»!ishrd Imri', '' t it was siu'cdiiy broken np by an irniptloii
of JO ) aitin>il ridfivi from Winilli mi ( -. inty. In 17''» -is.io tho, town iKscamo nn
inntortant point on tht!;,'rt'at Ati.intio sfa-rnroad, and 10 lims of sta:,'c«« criitnvl
liciv. I>e Warsiiln wmtti iicri', " fn Con'.i. Nature and Art havi-disjilayi'd jill their
trennr.'s ; it '\^ redly the I'aridise of the V. K. " ; aii'l innni;,' other jm idiirts of
thiUnte, he Hpeaks enthnsiastii illy of "tin fair Con-i. KJrls." In Deeenibr-r,
IH!), the infanriiH II utt'-id ('onvt'nti')n, eoiiipose I of "JH delegates from (ho
Hta!:'-* <if New i;;i,'.,'liiid, im t here, t" ddi'ieivite about erjpplinn tlie ;;eneral (Cte, ■
prnmeiit in the war with lui^'laml, !> wliieli war many of tlii- people in tiis
sei'tion were o|)posed. In IT'.'.' Ilirtfoirl had a valuation of ?<7.'(l,r>:i:{, and ii
ISl \ it-i population was ((,.jOO. at whieh tiin a writer pn Uets "that it will ( mi-
(iine to extend its si/e, its interests, and it-^ ii inseipieiiee. '

llartfonl, " Tlio ^{neeii City <d New Euf^'liunl," is a semi-capital of tli",
State of Coim., and is (iiiely sitnatetl on low liills at tlio junction of tli<
Park and Conn. Uivcrs. It is noted for its bcnevok'nt and educational
institutes, its extensive manufactures, and its po^verful insurance com-
I'anies. The iiopulation is 38,000.

Trinity College is a wealthy Episcopalian instltuMon, founded in
IS'J:?, and in 1^71 havint; 1.') instructors and '.'2 studouls. This was first
known as Washington (loljege, and in 1872 it had 3 long, hrownstone
liuildings (Seabury, Jarvis, ami IJrownell Halls) on the site soM for the
present new State Hou^e, These hulls stood on a beautiful summit over
the Park, on which the State House is to be erected. This will be a
nobk' building, in the architecture known as the Secular Gothic (whose
best forms are seen in the lintels dc Villf of l^dgium), after plans by
Upjohn, of New York. On this hill is a colossal * statue of Bishop
Browned (founder of the College, and Bishop of Conn., 1819 -(5.5) in his
episcopal robes. The statue (11 ft. high) is of bronzi;, and was made at
Munich. The Episcoj)al church is stronger (proportionally) in Comi.
than in any other Stat'-.

The Congregational Theological Institute (founded 1834, and has
graduated 21)0 men) is back of the Wadsworth Athcnjcum.

Of the 30 churches of the city, several are adorned with ivy of great
luxuriance. The 1st Presbyterian is a neat Romanescpie building of Conn,
granite and Ohio stone, anl the following an; built of i ed-stone, in Gothiu
forms: Christ, St. John's, Trinity, Incarnation, the 1st M. E., the South
Baptist (with a tine portico sui)j)orted by Caen stone columns), the Pearl
St. Cong, (with a spire 212 ft. high). The three Cong, churches on Main
St., the 1st Church (organized in 1033), the South Churcii (organized in
1G69), and the 4th Church have line buildings. The *Park Cotig. Church
is of sandstone, in the early English Cotliic style, with stone columns along
the aisles, and a timber roof. The Catholics have 2 large stone churches
(St. Peter's and the Cathedral of St. Patrick), and are about to l)uild an
elegant new Cathedral. The * Church of the Good Shepherd (Episco-

■ ■ / ■.'

136 Route 21. BOSTON TO NEW YORK.

pal), built Ity Mrs. Cult as a uienioriul of her husbaml and chililren, is a
g<;in of Gothic archit«!ct\ire, built of Portland stone triuinicd with Ohio
white stono, with a spiro IM ft. high, containing a «weet chime of bells.
Tlio W. front has a grand memorial window, in the centre St. Joseph
ran\ving the cliild Jesus, above wliieh is an angtd witli 15 children; on the
1, the angel of tlie resniiection, on tlic r. a singing angel. The clerestory
windows are low and brilliant, while the ehaneel windows represent (lirist
and the 12 Apostles. The chancel is 8e})arated from the organ (<m the
r. ) and the baptistery (on the 1.) by columns ff Seotcli graidte. The
* ba])tisni;d font is sustaiucil by a group (»f niarb). cherubs.

The High School is near tlie Parle in a nonlc * Imiiding of Norman and
French architecture, finished in 18t)D, at a cost of $ lt;0,(H)(). Near it, and
on Asylum St. (also near the R. R. station, with its Italian campaniles)
is the mansion long occupied by Mrs. Sigoumey, the poetess. The city is
about to erect on the Park a statue of Dr. Horace Wells, one of the dis-
coverers of surgical aiiivstliesia.

Back of the Cong. Church, opposite the Athemeum, is the ancient
graveyard (entrance to the r. of the church). Here are many graves of
the 17th and 18th century, with a massive sandstoic monument to the
memory of the first settlers. Two taldes (on the r. ) cover the remains of
Thomas Hooker, "tho renowned minister of Hartford and pillar of Conn.,
the Light of the Westeni Churches " (Mathku) ; and of Samuel Stone, a
divine who died here in 1()33, and whose ejiitaph bej^dns,

" Now Enplnrnl'R glory nnd her rndiant crowne
WnH lie. who now on sof'fi'st bed ofdowiie,
Till glorious rcsiirrt'ctioii morn nppfiirc,
Uoth sufc-Iy, sweetly sleepe in Jesus here."

The Deaf and Dumb Institute was founded by Dr. Gallaudet in 1817,
and is the oldest in America. The building (130 by 50 ft.) was erected
in 1820, and .stands on an embowered hill near the R. R. station, on
Asylum St. It has 200 - 250 inmates. The Retreat for the Insane (es-
tablished 1824) is a stately building of sandstone covered with gi-ay
cement, in the S. W. part of the city. From its great elevation, its
vicinity commands fine valley-views. It has received over 4,000 patients,
and has discharged 2,000 as cured. The Citif Ilosjiital is near the Retreat,
and is a large, plain, and commodious building of sandstone. In the
opposite section of the city (Upper Main St.) is the State Arsenal, the
Widows' Home, and the extensive North Cemetery,

The old State House Square is in the heart of the city. Here stands
the State IIo>(se, a homely old structure of brick, which dates from 1794.
In its Senate chamber the Hartford Convention assembled in 1815. The
Secretary's office contains the original royal charter, framed in wootl of
the Charter Oak. In the Senate Chamber, also, besides Stuart's picture
of Washington, and portraits of the governors of Conn, from 1635 to 1870,
is a large chair made of the same wood.

IMren, is a
with Ohio
e of V)ell8.
St. Joseph
['11 ; on tho
clerestory
sent (lirist
in (on tho
iiite. Tho

orniaii and
ear it, and
xnipaniles)
rh(! city is
af tho dis-

10 ancient
graves of
snt to the
eniains of
of Conn.,
j1 Stone, a

t in 1817,
IS erected
tation, on
isa7ie (es-
ivith gray
'ation, its
> patients,
e Retreat,
. In the
senal, tho

sre stands
•om 1794.
^5. The
wood of
's picture
5 to 1870,

f: }

^ * 1 ■ *- -

' ' ' 'O,^

tal of marble, with the toliowing weii-(ini. „„. .

Worn.in : 2, the Toinpt-ition ; 8, the Fall ; 4. Ilidins' from Go.l ; 5. the Kxpulsiou

from FAm ; fi. Lim'^Mtitioii ; 7, Tillini thf Oi-ouii.l : S, the First-Boru.

IIAUTIOKIK I

I SlfiU Housr \Wy^ S/.fW-firs \i\

\\ C'UvHoll KAViVark ' t/l

4 (hnn Jnsunirt((I.i^f^f !).-T
"SCharlrrOnh 1)5.
() W'fiil^wmr/// (ft/ifnotv'if i).

7 Siad^ OrsunaJy . («.')

8 IhviWJjnmudsyhm/ C

SS Hn/kSrlu>n! K.'.?

10 h'.U.S/r/u'n K'l

W lu Irt ftl foj tlichiMUif \ '.»
lU Ch/fs Ormrry li.(

( "Imrchcs.

v^au^n .. ' K..;

20 CUy - \)\

'IVanibJ SUifi's \\\

i ■

It- (nu^fi ShfpltmL lUl.*^? Uiicura

^S^ HAR-^fORO
D

13(

pal)
gem
whi
Tlvj
can
1. t]
win
and

Fre
on -
is ti
abo
cov

gra
the
me]
Th.
the
di?

an(

tal i

cei I

vi<

tb|

thf I iiaiie —

of Wasliingtori, and portraits of the governors of Conn, from 1635 to 1870,
is a large chair made of the same wood.

BOS'J'UX TO NEW YORK.

liontc n.

137

In Oct. 1687, Sir Edmund Aridros, the roy.il govenior of New England, enton'd
Hartford with his troopa, and demanded the royal charter, the only sjifeguard of
the liberties f>f Coim. During a stormy eveiiing-meetiiig the lights were suddenly
extinpcuished, and a hold colonial gentleman seized the charter and fled forth,
lie hid it in a hollow in an oak-tree, and there it stayed until Andros had left the
How)i in great anger. The charter vas ever after [Meserved, and tiic tree was held

^n increasing veneration until isr)(), when it was blown down in a storm. Its

Splace is now markeil with a marble slab.

Mark Twain asserts that in a late visit to Ilartfonl he .saw arti( les as follows
made from this tree : "a walking-stick, dog-collar, neeiUe-case, three-legged stool,
boot-jack, dinner-tible, ten-jiin alley, tooth-iuck, and enough Charter Oak to
build a plank-road fron-. Hartford to Great JSalt Lake City."

Near the State Hoiuse Square, on the N. facmg Market St., is the City
Hall, in the Grecian architecture, but clingy in appearance.

The old State House is to be removed to anotlier part of the Square,
and an extensive government building will be erected on its })res('nt .site.
5 Opposite State House Stjuare is the superb granite * building of the
1 Conn. Mutual Insurance Company, recently conq)kled at a cost of
$7-800,000. A short ilistance below this building i.s the line granite
block belonging to the Hartford Fire In.s. Co. On Main St., alongside of
I the Athenaeum, is the lofty * granite palace of the Charter Oak Insurance
Co., which cost above .$700,000, The beautiful halls and oUices within
should be visited, and by a.sconding in tlie elevator to the ob.servatory on the
roof (a courtesy granted l)y the company ; small fee to the cotiductor of
the elovator), a tine view is obtained of the city and its environs. Tlie
elegantly linished sandstone office of the Etna Ins. Co. is nestled alongside
of the Charter Oak building. There are 21 insurance companies in the
city (9 Life, and 12 Fire), having an aggregate capital amounting to scores
of millions.

Wadsworth Athenaeum.

While Amold was plotting at West Point (1780), Washington and Rochambeau
were making plans and enjoying hospitable cheer at the mvusion (in IIartf<jrd) of
Col. Wadsworth, Cominissary-Ocnoral of the .\rmy. Wad ^worth's son gave tho
land, after removing the mansion, for a pubiif- library, and the i>resent building
(of Glastenbury gneiss, in I'astellatcil architecture) was l)'iilt froi,i the proceeds
of a popular subscription of .$52,01)0. Gn the lower floor of the Atheneeitm is
the Statuary Hall (fee 2' c.), containing ca.sts of Ganymede, Wasliington, Pan, the
Shepherd LJoy, the Truant, Genevieve, Calvpso, and an allegorical ligure of Cnm-
merce, all by Bartholomew (who died at N'aples. ISJ.S). Casts, by the same do-
signer, of Ruth and Naomi, llagar and Islit lael, thi; Mnniing Star, Helisarius at
the Pincian Gate. There ai' ■ also cast; of SciiwanHialcr's " l^ivaria," and small
busts (German) of Schon. MuriUo. Correggio, Velasipiez, Domenichino, Raphael,
Angelo. Leonardo da Vinci, Gliirl.uidaj i, Fiesojc, Mozart, (Joethe, Andrea del
Sarto, Bellini, Van Dyk, Rul>ens, I'rancia, Masaccic, Terugino, Claude Lorraine,
Poussin, Van Kyk, Ilemling, Diinir, HoU«'in, and Titian. 17 of Rogers's statuettes
occupy one long slielf.

Busts (in marble) of President Fiilmore, and * Diana, by Bartholomew ; Wads-
worth, Horace Busiinell, and C. H. Olnistea<l, by Ives.

Statues, Stella, and * Sappho, Bartliolomew, and an elaborate work, 'Eve
Repentant, his masterpiece. She is sitting w th liead bowed and hands <dasi)ed
in contrition, while her long, luxuriant liair h ings down her baik, and a serpent
is seen curling about her on the ground. The statue is upon an octagonal pedes-
tal of marble, with the following well-designed bas-reliefs : 1st Panel, Creation of
Woman ; 2, the Temptation ; ;?, the Fill ; t. Hiding from Go I ; r>, the Expulsi''U
from F/ieri ; «. LTiii'-if ition ; 7. j'lllinx the Grouu^i ; s, tlic Fir;t (ioni.

138 Rvutc21.

BOSTON TO NEW YORK.

On the upiier flo^r is the Picture Gallery. JWit U'ldl. 93, Qucljcf, by Chvrr.h ;
!M, View <,n the Susqucliaiuia, Church; :J8, Kcce Ildiiio ; ]!'.», f»'t. .lep^nip ; 2,
V<.'iii<e ; 21, (ioor;^'c W;i.siiiiixt'>n, ••••liy from .Stiiuit, hy ElUworth; 58, Fcust at
Levi's JlmiMc, (tjicr Vnul rcivnese; I'M, J-andsoain-, Lanmun; 120, yt. Josejih and
Jcsiis, I ijtr.r Raphael ; ',V2, Marie Aiitoinftt^-.

Soiilh Wall. 92, llarllord ruritaii.s in tlic Wildernrss, C7i?(rc/i ,• Biimin;,' Ship
at [Soa, .lewftt ; 4, liattJc (17tii contiiry) ; .'Sanison in Honda; 1, ' Death ol Warren
.at Bnnker Hill, TriDnhull (llie eehdn-atod Jiistorieal ]iieinn!,s Ity this artist liavo
ex)>lanatMiy eharts ajtpended) ; [>, Mrs. Signurney, Tntmhull; (12, llnnihnldt;
121, W(lliii;,'t(H) : so, Oliver Woleott, Stnart; 2, Uattle (d" Trenton, Trumhull ; S7,
V. Ellery Channing ; IIH, Ihiitus ; !'l, Ciirist in the 'IVnijile, I'crry ; 40, .Soa View
in Fo;,' ; .W, Ni;^'ht-seene at Najtles (the last twn are liri^ilit " restore<l " jiietun's,
said to iHi by Veriiet) ; 10, Hattk of Primeton. Tnnnlndt; 11, M)eath of Mont-

S;oniery at QuelM-e, Trdinhiill ; I'A), Elevation of the Cross, r///£r Rvhens; 12, Holy
^'aniily, TramhuU ; ,s(i, .Joel llawcs, 1). 1>. ; W, lloraee JJushnell, D. I).

Kant Willi. Destnn-tion of .lernsaleni, a largo i)ieture, 22x14 ft., in poor light,
Init Cull of stndy (plans on the tallies near), hy li'hirhelo; 27, Ruth and liony.: 05,
Landscape, I.shnm ; l:!, Death nf Jane MeCrea, I'cnnk'rlipi.

North Wall. 12S. John in llic Wilderness, Cole; 127, White Mountains, Cole;
)2:{, Marine View, Coim-; 12'.>, Cascade hi th(! Catskills, (air; 124, Tim Lady of
tlie Lake, 'rnnnbull ; llio. Lake Winnepesankee, Cole ; i.'Jl, View on Talcott .Mt.,
Cole; 34, 'View of Sft. Ktna, at smirise, from Taoriiiina, Coir ; 15, Anieritus Vo.s-
pnecius ; IG, Columhns ; ■ Benjamin West, .Sn- 77;oh)('.s htvf'nce ; ;iO, Declaration
of lixh'pendeiice (small artist's copy), TrinnhuU; 80, Landscape near New Haven ;
100, Milton's Descent of (Satan ; portraits of various celebrities of the tState of
Conn.

In the N. wing of the Athenajiim is the Vvinio }fcii's Inslitutr, with a circulat-
ing library of 2't,000 volumes, and a re;idiiig-rooin (r.n intmduetion by a member
of the Iiistitnte entitles one to four weeks' use).

The Cotui. liistorical Society has its rooms in the S. Wing (open daily ;
no fees). IJesides a large library, many curiosities are kept here, among which
are, King Piiilijt's club ; Putnam's battle-sword; bows, arrows, pikes, swoi-ds,
&('., of six wars ; old German missals ; dresssuitsat iM'tiicli Court of Commissary

Wadsworth and Commodore ]\Icl)<>nougli

Turkish scimeter with coral and

ivory lii!tan<l silver scabbard, and iiiscri])tions in Arabic and Persian ; gold yicn
*' worn out in the service of Washinu'ton Irving" ; a lin''. f'i ft. long) of the chain
stretciied ai i-o'^s the Hudson in 177<>; a fuoi-.stov: 40; Llder J3re\vster's

cliest ; Htandish ,> dinuer-pot ; Put ii.im's tavern-sign ; ...mish shells thrown into
iStoningtnn ; a moitar captured in Mexico; relics of Kailian Hale and Col. Led-
yard ; Itobbins J5ible (147S); Farmington ehiindi drum; mail bag (A. D. 1775)
used betweeJi Hart.oid and New Haven, (i x inches : the tir.st telegraphic mes-
sage sent i'l America (from Washington to Baltimore), "What wonders hath God
wrought " ; l.'J Russian medals ; Continental money ; a pi.sto] from Colt ; Confed-
erate iiioni'v ; a number of the " Boston News L<tter" for Ai>ril 17, 1704 (the lirst
number of the lirst news])aper in America: it lasted 72 year.^) ; numerous )ii>r-
trails, M.S.S., and pieces of Charter Oak ; AniC'ld's watcii ; the chair in which
Lee signed the c;i]iitnlation of A]i)iomaltox , several battle-ilags well used ; the
.swords of I'ulnam ; of McDonough (\ictor in the baitle of the lleets on Lalve
Chami)lain); of Capt. Ward, of the L'. iS. Navy (born Hartford, I80d, killed in the
attack on Matthias Point, Va , June 27, l^'d); of Commander Kogers (Vcilled in
Die nuvaJ a.-5sault on Fori .Sumt<'r) , of Col. Kussell (of the 10th Cunn.. killed at
Rounwke, i/^i'I): oflien. Sedgu ick (killed ai Hjioltsylvania, .Alay '.', 1804); and of
Gen. Nath:<ni<>i J>yon (conunander of the C, S. A.rmy in Missouri, killed at the
battle of Wilson's v.'reek, Aug. lo, i^Wil). Adjoining this roon; is the liall contain-
ing a large reh'ience libijiry, emlowed witli ir'iuu.ooo by David Watkiuson, who
<lie<l in 1>^.'»7.

The i»riii( ipal iiKiiiufac loijes of Hitrlford are the Colt Rifle and Pistol Pactoiy,
which has ft! I,0<)t»,00() cai)itiii, and emjdoys HOO hauiis. yince Col Colt's death it
haw been run by a eompany, of which Gen. Franklin is President. Its immen^;o
Imildings are ir. the S. K. part of the city, near the river, from whose uiundations
they are guaixled by a dike (.On (t. i.road at tlie {op, and 8,700 ft. long), which cost
.^8(),;(00. T!ic Church of the (iuod hhejdierd is near by, and (dose to the faciory
is a colony of .Swiss, who make ni. will- -w-warc from material grown here. In the
W. part o( the city is the (Sharp kifle Maind'aetory, employing i)-7oo men, wliich

i*f ,%

BOSTON TO NEW YOUK.

Roufr 21. 1 30

t.),

\
\

\i^

h;>« mvtl;; 100,00 ") rifles for the U. S., besides Hlling largo orders fur FiiRlaml, (ior-
inany, Spain, riiin i, .Tapati, Mexiro, rem, and Chili. Tiit' Win. Ro.^nTs Cn. tnnis
out j<S ) >,(M) ) Worth of plated spoons and forks ye.irly ; tlie .Vslnncid (iold-Bfut-
ing (Jo. nsft nji ll,«>l'i ounces of gold yeirly ; tlic Weeil .Sewing- .Macliines arc made
to the ninnl) -r of JO.oim) ; the Colt Willow-Ware Co. have T') acres of willow, and
turn out 100 tons of ware each year ; the Colmrn Soap Co. jirodnees i>t)0 tons, in
40 v.irieties ; anil the great ]tnhlisliing houses (subscription books) |>rint many
fieore thousand volumes yearly. Hartford is al.so an important market for wool
and tobacco.

The city lias 17 hanks, 7 M.nsonic lodges, 4 lodges of Odd Fi'llows, 3 cf
Knights of Pythi.'is, 2 Grand Army Posts, G teinperaiice societii's, and 7
o/(7'' military coniiianics, ono of which, tho Putnam I'hahuix, i.s widely
famed. Its members dross in anticjue unifomis, and the corps (12o men)
is said to represent .$11,000,000. The city has more wealth in propor-
tion to its j)opulation than any other American city, and its society is of
a liigh and cultivated orrler.

liy following Main St. to tlie S. beyond St. Peter's Church, Annsmrar
is soon reaclnnl (on the 1.). This is the residence of the Colt family, with
spacious grounds adorned with groves, lakes, marble statuary, green-
Ijousos, and a deer-park. Near the mansion is a beautiful * copy (in
bronze) of the Amazon and Tiger, at the Museum in Berlin. About 3 M.
beyond is ancient Wethersfield, settled by men of Wafcrtown, Mass., in
l^o'). At 163(3, the first Conn, legislature conveneil hero declared war
against the Pcipiots. The oM Webb mansion, near the Cong. Church,
Y.'as Washington's head-ipiarters, and here frecpient and protracted councils
of the French and American ofiicers prepared the plans which ended at
York town. The town lias long been noted for its great crops of onions.
Siuc>3 1823, the State Prison has been <'stablished licre.

About 3 M. S. W. of file city i.s Cedar Grove Cemetery, on a bare and
lofty hill commanding vii^ws of the Queen City and the volley of the
Conn. Tiie * Beach Memorial is a beautiful work of Itali^'n art. A Ingh
base, surrounded by elegant bas-reliefs, supp nis a vase, which is sheltered
by a tabernacle in red, yellow, and white marbles, supported by column.s
of Scotch granite. The Clark Monument is surmounted by a colossal
bronze Angel of the Rcsurrecliou (cast in Munich). The Russel Monu-
ment is crowned by a life-size and life-like seated statue, Tlie monument
to Col. Samuel Colt (who invented tlie revolving pistol) consists of a lofty
Egj'ptian column of Scotch granite, surmounted by a bronze angel, while
on tho j'edestal is tlie family coat-of-arms {a colt rampant, with a broken
.spear in his mouth).

Talcott Mt. is about M. W. The estate "Monte Vi<l.-o " of the old family
of Wadswortli is on its summit, and the pretty Gothic villa is near a "deep, cold,
erystalliue lake." on the brow of the mt. From a neighboring tower, "you liave
a glorious * view of the surrounding country, and into the ad.joi:iing SL'ites of
Mass. and X. V. ; the whole surrounded by an impurjiled outline of ints. The
Conn, is seen sweeping or.wanl like a king, through its fair domain, amid the
spircj of /lunierous towns and villages, while, by tlie aid of a gl.iss, the sails of

1 U) Roaic ::l

HUSTON VO NEW YOllK.

l»Ji

the vessels in the port of Hartford, ami tlie movements iii the btreets, are dis-
tinctly visible. ' (Mrs. Sicournev.) "The i)eruliantie-» of tlie licaiitiful and
f'rand Hf(!nery of Slonte Vidm niai<e it (piitc without a itarallil in America, and
I)rol)ably witli few in the world." (Prof. Hu.mman.)

AVAi, //i" (7 M. S.) presents a reniarlvalile .junction of trap-rock and sandstone
From this imiiit is on,joyc(l a ri< li view over tlie river vail . embracinj,' Wctlicrs-
llcid and its intervales, (Jlastcntmry and the Lyine.Mts., N irtl'ord, and, 10 M. to
tlie N., til" Alt'-, of Tom and Hn]yoi:e. Tlie ride to Hoc ky 'ill, liy the rivcr-ruiid,
is a favorite one with the Hartford citizens.

Other excursions iire t<i Tiniililc-l)own Urook (S M. W.), to K. and W. Hartford,
to (ilastenlMiry, and o\<!r Newin^^ton Mt. .S'. Wimhrtr {{) },\. N.) w.is a dejiot for
I)risoners durin}{ the Hevoliition, and its numerous lines oi elms were jdanted by
British and Hessian captives, under the directinii of Lafayette. Here was born
John Fitch, inventor and builder of the lir.st. steanibitat in America. He ran a
steamer-line on the Delaware Iliver from ITSfi to 17'."), the boat making 8 aM. an
hour. Fulton's steamers, the " Clermont " and the " Car of Neptune," were j'lit
on the Hudsitn in 1807. 30 years ayo more gin was made in E. Windsor than in
any other town in America.

After leaving

Hivrtfonl, tlie line runs S., leaving the river, past Newing-
ton to Berlin, whence branch tracks diverge to IMiddletnwn, 10 M. on the
S. E., and New Britain, 2.^ M. on the N. (see Route 11). Berlin village
(S. E. of the station) was for scores of years the home of the jieripatetic
tin-pedlers who traversed the country between Mobile and Quebec. 1'lie
manufacture of tin- ware originated here about 1775, and is still carried
on. The heroic INIajor Hart was born here, who, at Gen. St. Clair's defeat
on the Miami River (1791), led a battalion of the 2tl U. S. Infantry (the
rear-guard) on a fearful charge, in which he and nine tenths of his men
were killed. At Tv Berl' ' are the .vorks cf the American Conugated
Iron Co. Percival, the poet, .vas born here in 1795.

Station, Meriden (Meriden House), a bnsy little city midway between
Hartford and New Haven. Near the City Hall (E. of the track) are sev-
eral churches, and some neat villas crown the heights beyond. Tlie
spacious and imposing biiilding of the State Roform School is ]iassed liy
the train just before reaching the station. The highway to the N. passes
Mt. Lamentation, and then runs through a narrow pass in the Blue I\Its.
cfilled the Cat Hole, 1 M. long. Ice is found near this deej) glen through-
out the year. West Peak, 3 M. from the city, coinmamls a view extend-
ing from Hartford to New Haven, and over Long Island Soimd.

The Meriden Britannia Co. has 6 large buildings, one of which is 527x40 ft.
1,000 hands are employed, 420 tons of nickel, white metal, and silver are iisid
yearly, and $2,500,000 worth of wares are sent out every year to all ])arts of ihe
World. Ives, Rutty, & Co. make 4,000 tons of tin-waVe yearly ; the Meriden
Cutlery Co. (the lir.st in America) eniiiloy4(i0 hands; Wilcox & Co. employ oCO
hands in making halmorals, hoo]is, and corsets ; and the Malleable Iron Co' and
the Parker yiiot-Gun Co. hav(! works here.

On the great lan<l route from Boston to New Haven, Behdier built a fortified
tavern here in ICCO. Levi S. Ives. Episeoi>al Bishop of Xortli Carolina (1831-52),
who was received into the Roman Catholic Church at the city of Rome in 1852,
was a native of Meriden.

After Yalesville is Wallingford Station (Beach House, an elegant sum-
mer-house, formerly the home of ^I. Y. Beach, proprietor of the '' N. Y.

HUSTON To Al.iiANY, kc. Route Hi*. Ul

••

Fun"; tlie ancient Washington House was bunied in May, 187"2). Duven-
]ort preaclied a seiinon at tlie fouiuling of this town (in likYj) IVoni tin;
text, '• My beloved hath a vineyard in a very fruitful hill." On that
fruitful liill the village is built, with a neat town hall, a costly Episcopal
churcli, and a fine niodern school-house, besides several neat villas.
Manufactures of German-silver ware, Albata plate, &c., are carried on on
the plain. The Hanging Hills fonn a lofty and picturesque scene to the
W. of the village. . W, of the station (j M.) is a branch of the Oneida
Coniiiiunity, containing about .W persons, on an estate of 2 - 300 acres.
They believe in the jjower of the New Testament doctrines to render men
morally perfect, and all tlu'ir property is held in common. The object of
this ndssion colony (whidi receives subsidies from Oneida) is to pro])agate
the Onoida tenets in New England.

The line follows the Quimiijiiac Valley to N. Haven. Tliere is here a
Gothic church (Episcopal) facing the Green, near which is the house where
Dr. Trumbull tlie historian lived for HO years, and wrote 4,000 sermons
and several books. North Haven makes several million bricks yearly.
The train soon passes East Rock (on the r. ), crosses Mill River, and enters
New Haven.

New Haven to New York, see Route 8.

22. Boston to Albany, Saratoga, and the West.

\'ia llie BDston lui'i Alliany Railroad, Rens»elaer and Saratoga il. 11., and New
York Central 11. H. Huston to Allumv, 202 M. Fare, $5.80. Boston to Saratoga,
240 M.

This is the favorite route nuiniug H'. from Boston, and will livng hold tliis jtoal
tion, since tlie principal iiilimd i-Qh-s of Mas&iclmsetts an' on its lino. Wliell ItH
coMstrui'tion was tirst talked, of, ihr " Bos-t^m CouritT " derided the scheme, saving
that it could 1k' built onlj- sitt an " expense luiilc less than the market value of the
whole territory of Mas.s.t knjsetts, and which, it i)ractic:ihle, every person of coni-
inon-sense knows wouW >>«■ as useless as n militiad from Bost<ni to the moon."
Yet the W(uk went on, th<' road was comftleted to Worcester in ISS,'), to S{)nng-
liel>l in 18:iL>, and to All«ny in 1^42. The admimWle aj)pointmonts and organizii-
tion of this route, and its i.-uinunity frf>m accidents, have given it a wide reputa-
tion and an extensive patrouge.

The Station in Boston is on tb»e comer of Beach and Lincoln Sts. (PI.
85),

After emerging from the city, the line crosses the Providence Railroaul
(Route 8) on the Back Bay lands, and passes the junction of the Woon-
.socket Railroad (2 M. out). A fine panoramic view is gained by a back-
wani glance from the windows on the r. of the car, embracing the ancient
aca.iemic city of Cambridge, with the liuights of Somerville and Charles-
town, while much of Boston is visible to the rear.

For the itinerary between Boston and Sj>ringfield, see Route 21.

The line crosses the Connecticut River on a long bridge just after leav-
ing Springfield, and tVdlows the valley of the Agawam River past W.

142 Route 23. THE BERKSIIIUE HILLS.

Sprinpffifilcl Station (a niannfacturiiig village; Agawam Hole!) to West-
field (Willniaith lloiihc, Wcstlicjil Houst-). TIii' Imliaii ilomaiu of Woio-
noco was settled })y the Engjisli in lt»«50, and called Streaiulield, from
the a>)iindanee of its waters, liut later, the Legislature named it Westfield,
as the most ' -terly of the settlements. Late in King Pliilii)'s W.'.r, the
colonial council ordered that this, and all the other valley towns, r.hould
be evacinited, and that their inhal)itants sliould concentrate at Springfield
and ILadley. An angry refusid was returne(l, and the towns negotiated
for union with Conn, until the ol)noxious edict was repealed. Westlield
built a fort and stood her ground. At j)resent it is a busy village, where
32 iirms make 2,rj00,0(l() whii)s a year, and 8-12,000,000 cigars are an-
nually made. The Htute Xormnl School located here has 100- 200 stu-
dents, and is of high reputation. Several churches front on the Green,
Avhich is adorned by a monument by which " Westlield honors the
memory of her sons who have fallen in defence of Liberty, Union, ami
Independence, 18(Jl to ISGo." The }>edestal bears the arms of the State
and of the Union, and a list of the slain, and is surmounted by a bronze
soldier, of heroic size. The village is situated in a beautiful valley by the
Westlield Uiver, A I\I. S. of the station. The New Haven and North-
amiiton Kailioad crosses the line at this point.

The line now runs up the valley of the Westfield lliver, passing
Pochassic Hill and Mt. Tekoa on the r., and stoj»s at Russell (Russell
House), in a mountainous town. Station, Huntington and Chester, after
which the line jiasses into Berkshire County (see Route 'I'A). Beyond the
borders of iJi rksliire and of IMaHsacJinselts the line enters New York State,
and cnnnects at Chat hum with the Hudson and Boston \\. it. and the
Harlem R. 11. From Chatham, It riniN N. W,, through Kinderhook and
Behodack, In (IruenbuHli, and thence crossing the JIudHon on anoble briilge,
enters the city of Albany.

Connei'tiouH aiv here made with the NeW Vtul< Cellthd l(. tt. fo/ the West, mA
Willi other vtmtes for >ii \v Yi>rU, SmatoHU Siirings, ic. Also witli llic ilmlisoji
River boats. Fioni Albjuiv to I'tica, '.tu M. ; to Rome, lOit M. : to Hvrttciise, J47
M. ; to RocliesLcr, 25:) M. ; 'to Rullhio, 2(i7 M. ; to Niagara Falls, 80'. M. ; to De-
troit, bM M. ; to Chjt iiu'>. fei^D !^b These distances are calcidated on the N. Y.
Central R. R., ami tlii' l.aUo Shore and Mirliigaii fSoiitlicrn I{. R. (via Toledo and
t'l( Vfliiud^ wliicli il iiicetH at Hiillalo. Ry llic same route and tlu shortest lines
beyond, the whole distance from lioston to Niagara Falls is ."<(>7 M. : to (."Inciao,
1,022 M. ; to at. Louis, 1,:}02 M. ; to Umaha, i.Olu M. ; to (San Franejiico, 3,42'^ M.

23. Tlie Berkshire Hills.

Tills district will he considered in connection with its railway system, wliose
various lines will be treated of independently C)f their eonneetiuns b*'youd ttte
county limits.

Tlie Rerkshire ilills form a l»eautif'iil and i)i('turesqiie district of mountains and
laUes, ahuundiiig in (diarms lor tlie lover of nature. Thousands (»f city jieople
lloek hither eveiy summer, and rest and relax amid sei^nes so peaeefid and attrac-
tive. The best time for a visit here is in Oetolicr, " when the holiday h'U!* hft

THE liEKKHHIRE HILLS.

B-utcSd. \\?>

tlielr wivatlieJ ami crowned Iii'uIh in th** i'BH|)lc'Hlt>nt days of nutunin." S;iy!4
IJcfi'lier of tliis season in Hiiksiiiic, " ILivc llic evi-nin.; tlninls, snlliisc'l \vilh
8un.-<ft, (lioppi'd down and iM-conif fixed into hoHiI rornis? Ilavi- tli'- lainhows
tiiat followed antninn htonns tade<l upon lliends., and ieCt fiieir luantltM tlien-?
What a nii:-,'lity diorns of colors do the trees roll down llii' \alley.s, n^i tlie hill-
sides, and over tlie nits.

" From S.disl>ni7 to Williani.stown and then to Rcnnin^fton in Vormnnt, thero
Btretelu'8 a rounty of valleys, lake.s. and nits., that is y(>t to lie as celebrated as
the lake-district o|' Kn;,djinif. or tlie hill-conntry of I'desiine."

Another writer .say.s ; " IJerkshire in a rej^'ion of hill and valley, nit. and lakp,
boantifnl rivers and laiiKliin'..; tii1>oks. -the very riednioiitof America." Godfrey
CJreylock naively writes, "Somel.ody li.is c.illed Berkshire the I'iediiiont of Anier-
ici. I do not know liow just the a]ipeIlation may l»e, but 1 <lo know that if
riediiioiit can rightly l)e called the lU-rkshire of Kurope, it must In; a very de-
li^rhtful re'.,'ion."

The njute from Hostoii to Central Herksliire is by the IJoston and Albany U. R.
Distance to I'ittslidd, l.".l M. ; f.iiv, '^l. :?.'..

The route from New York to Herksliire is by tin' Ifonsati>nic 11. U. Distance
to i'itlslield l(j<3 M. I'lttslield is r.ii M. fioni Sp'rini^licld and 'A .M. from Albany.

"That section of the Western R. R. wliich traverses the wild liills of
Berkshire is a work of ininiense labor, and a wotitlerful achievement of
art. After leaviu}.^ the wide nieadow.s of tin; Conn., baskinj^' in their rich
inheritance of alluvial soil and iininipc<led .snnsliine, you wind through
the narrow valleys of the Westlield River, with masses of mt.s. before
you, and woodland heights crowdini? in upon you, so that at every piitT
of the engine the passage visibly contracts. The Alpine character of the
rivej' strikes yon. At Chester you begin your ascent of 80 ft. in a mile
for 13 M. The stream between you and the jirecipitous hillside, cramped
into its rocky bed, is the Pontoosne, which leaps down jirccipices, nms
forth laughing in the <limpling sunsliine, and then, shy as a mountain
nymph, it dodges behind a knotty copse of evergreen. In approaching
the summitdevel you travel bridges built a hundred feet above other
mountain streams, tearing along tlieir deep-worn beds ; and at the 'deep
cut' your passage is hewn through .solid rocks, who.se mighty walls frown
over you."

" We liave entered Ikrkshire by a road far .superior to the Appian Way.
On every side are rich valleys and smiling hillsides, and deep set in their
liollows lovely lakes sparkle iik(.' gems." (Miss Skdowick.)

While staging through this part of Berkshire, early in this century,
Caj/tain Marryatt, the English novelist, derided the madness of "certain
cru// »jiirits who have conceived the idea of constructing a railroad
i^r(j>\\'^\ this savage region."

Ff'/rii Tekoa Mt. to Wasliingtoji Summit the track rises 1,211 ft., or 82
i"t. in A fffih: in sjontie Krtig stretches. The first station is Ikchet, in the N.
of a large «<y«irn ai^oumling in lakes, from one of which flows Farmington
Biver, which «iakt!»glad so niuch of Northern CVjuii. 10 M. S. of Becket
l#t«tk*n is Otis (two inns), with the island-studded Great Lake. Station,
Washinrftr.n^ mwmft the hills whic^h the Indiana called Tukonick. The
village ii S. of the station in a pretty valley. Station, Jlinsdale, in a

141 JinUlctS,

Till: liKKKSIllltK HILLS.

lar^'f town (so nainetl in lu)!jor of its first inistor) wliidi is " more ploasing
to tlie lover <>!' fine inoiiiitaiii scenery, exhilaialiii^ Nreezes, and crystal
fountains, than to the fanner in quest of fortune." The nits, here recede
from the lin(! of the (r.-^k, and the tall hills of Peru are seen on the E.
(r. ). Station, Ikilton (I'llagh' Hotel), originally named Dale-town, which
has large ]>rip('r-factori('s. From D;ilton a highway leads to Windsor
(rievcIaiKl House) 7 M. X. K., the Indian " OuMliiukaniaug," a loftily
situated village in a town ricrh in Saxony and Meiino sheep, and "noted
for the longevity of its inhahitants." Ahout 3 M. from Dalton, on the
Windsor road, an; the Wahconah Falls, where a n»t. stream falls in 3 leaj»H
over an 80-ft. clilf of gray nnirble. (» M. beyond Halton the train ])asse.s
Silver Lake, and stops at the costly and handsome station in Fittsfield.

Ilotoltt* .NnuTicaii House, on tlie Main St., 120 K'lests, at ;?lo-ly,0() h
w<'ek ; liiirlciiiU floiise, opjinsite tlie >^itioii, ;;«!'- K'.(K) a Week, (iuod restau-
rant in llie station.

i'itttilield is a Iteiiutiful city of 11,113 inlial)itants, and is the centre and
tajiital of v?(!rkshire County. Tt was settled al)()ut the middle of the last
fcutury (1752) on the Indian domain of I'ontoosuc, and in 1761 it re-
ceived its present ?iame, in honor of William Pitt, the English statesman
and friend of America.

•

In 1814 the Berksliire .Iiiliilee wn;^ In M liere. enlliu^; in tliniisnnds of tlie sons of
the loiuity lidiii all iiiiitsoi' tin I'nion ; and on Sept. lil, 1K7:,', tlie largest nnilti-
liKJi' ever seen in Berkshire ;i;ilhereil heic at the dedieation ol' the Soldiers'
Monument. At sunrise the eln.icli hells ran^, and '.'-7 j.'uns were fireW, ami the
])i-oeesHion included 8 hands ol' music, detaeliuienl.. Imni !• veteran regiments, the
•Jd Mass. Militia reg., and '2 C'oiiiiiiainleries ot kiii^dit.i Teiiiidar. U. W. Curtis
was the orator of the day. "The scldieis' niomiuants of the late war, hai>iiily
arising in ev< ry town and in every village, with the heantiliil rites of Decoration
Day, hallowiii.n the iiienmry of lieitu-;, are like the sining of liherty, flowing
everywhere in the land." The nu'miiiiciit enusisls of ;i massive jiedestal on whieli
is a bron/e statue of a lithe young soldier in latigue uniform, .standing at rest,
with liis left hand holding a llag-statf, Jind the ligjil liaiid high up in the fohln of
t'le flag. This "Color-!;, .iirr " was designed l>y I.aiint Thompson, and cast from
tiie metal <if fj cannon given by Congress for the inn-pose. The pedestal contains
the names of 5 oflleers and ixi'iueu who died in the held, out uf 1,'J.jU who enlisted
at Pittstield.

" A voice from hps wlioroon the ronl fmm Frecildin'R shriiii' luith been,
'riirillcd, us l)iit yesterdny, tlic hearts iti Hrrkshiro's Miiuntniii men ;
Tlu- crher.s of tluit Knlciun voice iirc; sielly liiicniiig still
111 hII our sunny vnllej-s, on every wind-HWept liill.

And 8nn<ly narnstnl)lo rose up, wet with the salt sea sprny ;

And Mii.stol .sent lier unsweriiiL' shout down XiiiTopiinsott Daj' ;

Aloin,' till' lirond Connectient old Ilninph-n felt the tlirill.

And tlie eluei- of liainpshire .s woodmen swept down from Holyok© HiU.

AVj .ifttrr-hiint in mir hnrdrrs — iiu pinili mi our utriiiul !
Nofi-tter» in l/ic Bin/ Sluti: — nit flave ii/hdi our hind .'"

Whittier,

The nionument stands in the Park, a groon in the midst of the city,
which is called the heart of Berkshire.

Here, in the centre of an elliptical line of trees, stood the Old Elm,
with its \M ft. of smooth shaft, and concentric ring.s representing 340 years
of growth. After being twice thunder-smitten, the Old Elm became un-

i fc-

THE UERK8I1IUE HILLS. Route *S. U'j

safe, and was taktii downj in lSt54, aniil the mourning of tli< county. On
one side of the Park is the C'origregiu iojial Cliunh (of Hto!ie), w)u<re !)»•,
John Todd (rt powerful and prolific writer) preached, ]hl2-70. Next to
it is St. Stcplicn's llpi.soi j ' T'lmn h. At the end of tin- Tark is the
elf'cjant wliitf niarlilo ♦Court House, whifh, tofjcther with tin- Jail (in
(\;iotlier street), cost $40(>,*K)(). Nfar the Court, Hnusi-, uud fronting the
Park, is the building of the Berkshire A thenaMiin, containing u tine library
and collections of Iwal ouriositie.s. On the comer of North and West Sts. ,
near the Park, is the nol)!.- building of tlu! Herk.sh'i'j Life Insurance Co.
On the main street are .some W\w biisiues.s buildings, and beyond tho
American House is tip,' small but handsome marble Catheilral of St.
Josi^ph. The French residents have, also, a (^atludic Church for their
hundred families, and there is also n Oerin.m Lutheran Chureh. Beyond
St, Joseph's is the Maplewood Institute (for young ladies), '* whose gracf'-
ful chap<l, g\/i)nasium, and half ivy-covered tlwiUings gleam while
through groves and avenues of fanu'd attractiveness." The Si cingside
S(.'hool (lur boys) is on the borders of Pittsliild, in pleasant grounds. At
one end of tlie main street is ths buihiing of the BerkJiire Me<lical Justi-
tute, established in 1821 as an appanage of Williams College, but long
ago discontinued. The Irinisfallen Greenhoiiso (5(X) ft. long) has a high
reputation, and in tin- W. suburb is the Pittstiekl Pleasure I'a'k, with a
race-course, games &c. The city is situated on a plateau 1.000-1,200
ft. above the sea, and surroimded by loflv hills, the Taconics on the W.
and the Hoosacs on the E. Beaiitiful villas .abound in the suburban
streets, and extensive manufactures of cotton ami woollen cloths, lire-
arms, and cars furnish emi>loynn'nt for the foreign population. The
eity is su] ''litd with watir from Lake Ashley, a little n.m.antic loch
which lies upon the summit of Washington Ml. (l.SOO ft. high), 7 M. to
the S. E. Near this lake is West Pond, from which Roaring iJrook flow*
down through Tories' Gorge to the Housatonii ,

Lake Onota (»;x'{ acres) is a1)out J M. W. of Pittsfield. From the hill
where Ashley's Fort stood, a line view is enjoyed, but Ihe best i)rospect in
from a long j>oini running from the N. shore, to which locality belongs the
legend of " The White Deer of Onota."

Pontoosuc Lake, " the haunt of the winter deer "(.575 .acres), is 3-4 M.
X. of Pittsfield, on the road to Williamstown (20 M.).

Berry Pond is to tlie N. W. in Ilanciock. "Berry Pond dues not derive iU
iiauie Iroiii the ^ir.iwberries, bLieivbcrrie-i, uu't raspberriea, wliieli by tlieir ubun-
dane.j in the vicinity wutihl .justify the appellation, but from an obscure, stout-
hearted man who once >1 welt ui)()n its bonier, and wrunj,' subsistence for a large
family of ^'irla out of the niar^jin of its rooliy chalice. Nothing can exceed the
beauty ot this pond. Its margin is goinetimes a beach of silvery sand, strewn
with tjlocks of snowy (luariz and delicate, tilirous mica ; aj^ain grassy and green to
the water's edge; and yet again friiigeil with li>ng eyelashes of birch and hazel-
trees, that dreamily gaze at their nUction in the mirror." (Taconic.)

South Mountaiii is 2-3 M. S. of Pittsflel'l, From ita S. summit Greylock

7 J

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Photographic

Sciences

Corporation

23 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, N.Y. MSBO

(716) 872-4503

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UG Route 23. THE BERKSHIRE HILLS.

I I

J :

is seen in the N., "Mount Oceola and Porrj-'s Poalc in the W., tlie Lnnox Mt. in the
K., and llie Mts. of Wushinyton in tlie E. The lity is close at liand in tlie N. with
Lake «)ii()ta at its side. Xean-r is Mflvillc liatcc, or Lilly Bowl, near Lilly
Oiic, so named from an old Mey Menilies of a herniitess named Lilly, who onre
livcil in the valley.

In the mts. N. W. of rittsficld, and distant several miles, are fome ronianlii^
pfiiiits. Below Mt. IIomwcc is the I'ldiniscd Land, a name !L,'iven with ^;rini New
Ln.uland liumor to a tract of lan<l lor which ^'raiits were lonj; itromiscd and
lonL:erdcli-.yed. On its W. summit is a jiretty lakelet whence J^uln (."jie (or valley)
m;iy he dcscemhid to Lula tJascath', " a I'oam-w'hite c(jlnmn which finds its base in a
cin-ular jiool of i)lack and ^dossy surface, overhung,' l»y a gray old huulder, and by
masses of tangled foliiige." >S. (»f the i'romisetl Land is the Ujie of Promise, the
7iear(-st (thoiiKh arduous) jiath to Berry Bond. 'I'hen conies Arhnxus Hill and
Oiie, which are covered with arbutus in May, and beyond them is Old Tower Hill,
with a tower whiidi commands a 1)n)ad view.

S. of the J.,ehanon load (which runs throujrh Lilly Ope) is Doll Mt., wliere the
Sliakers formerly worshiiiped, and wliieli tliey called Mt. Zion. .Silver Lake is in
the K. environs, and Sylvan Lake is 2-3 M. L. of the city. The laij^er lakes here-
abouts arc itrolific! in ]iickercl, but the trout Ikivc been nearly exterminated.

O. Wendell Holmes lonj,' resided at a villa 2 M. N. of the <ity, on a small fami
remaining from 'J4,(i0l) acres purchased 'uy hit; gnuidlather 'n 17"."i. Near him
lived Herman Melville, the rover, and author of Kea-novels. " White Jacket,"
"Moby Uiek," and other works were written here, where he resided l.soO-GO.

William Allen, 1). U., the pastoi, poet, an<l biofirajiher (1^20 -.'J9 Pres. of Bowdoin
College), was born at PittslieM in 17S4. William Jlillcrwas boni here in 1781. In
1S33 he begrn to harangue tin; pe(*ple in dillerent cities, ]'roiihesying the coming
of the millennium in 18i;$. He built up a large sect, which fell to pieces when the
appointed day passed and was .^een to lie like other days.

Nef.r the station of itichmoiid are the remarkable geological phenomena of
B'<'hinond Valley, consisting of seven jiarallel lines of boulders, stretching across
til. valley from Perry's IVak lo Lenox Mt, in a S. E. direction. Thii; feature was
carefully studied by Sir Charles LytP (in two visits), and is mai)pedand desciibefi
ill. his " Antiquity of Man." I'erry's Peak is famed for its superb over-vi<!W.

To New Lebanon Springs is a favorite excursion from Pittsfield. By
tlie highway the distance is 12-15 M. ; the r.ailroad route is circuitoi:s,
being by the Albany luie to Chatham, and thence up the Harlem Ex
tension R. R.

Hotel.— Columbia Hull, a fashion.ible and elegant summer-house.

The thermal springs at New Lebanon liave won an excellent reputation

for their efficacy in diseases of the skin and liver. The flow of the waters

is very large, and its temperature is about 73\ There are many line

<lrives and walks in this vicinity, the favorite of which is to the Shaker

village, about 2 M. tlistant.

The Shakers originated from a French sect wliich came to England in 1706, and
Ann Lee, of Manchester, the daughter of a blacksmith and the wife of a black-
tinith, joined them in 1758. In 1770, after emerging from a madhouse where she
was "ontlned for reviling matrimony, she annoiuieed, " I am Ann, the Word," and
soon after came to America, and was made the "Spiritual Head " of the sect. In
1780 she produced a revival at New Lebanon, and converted many to Shakerism,
Bt>oii after which the sect established its head-quaiteis there, and in 1?95 accepted
the commonwealth covenant. She claimed the jiower of working miracles, and
held thai 'Jhrist's coming was not the fulfilment or "the desire of all nations, but
that the seccmd Divine advent must naturally be manifested in that particular
ol-jeet, to wit, woman, whicli is eminently tlie desire of all nations." Motlier
Anil made New Lebanon "the capital of the Shaker world, the rural Vatican
vhich claims a more desjiotic sway ov<'r the mind of man than ever the Roman
Pontifl' assumed. " On her death a peculiai hierardiy assumed the government.
The First Elder, tlio successor of Mother Ann, aiipoiuts the second elder, and the

» %

Mt. in tlie

:\\ii N. tvith

near Lilly

who once

{'. loiiijinlii'
grim Now
iiuiscil iind
• (or valley)
its base in a
kr, and by
ronii.se, the
IS Hill and
rower Hill,

wliere the
r Lake is in

lakes herc-
lated .
sni.ill farm
Near him
ite Jacket,"
s.0-00.
of Rowdoin
in 1781. In
the coming
us when the

n omen a of
hini,' across
feature was
d descriliefi
view.

fieia. By
ircuitous,
irlem Ex

)use.

^e})iitation
the waters
many fine
le Shaker

n 1706, and
of a black-
■ where she
•Vord," and
le sect. In
Shakerism,
9;> accepted
iracles, and
lations, but
: particular
' Mother
iral Vatican
the Roman
ovornment.
ler, and the

'ii.

THE REllKSIIIRE HILLS. Rtmte 23. 117

first and second elilress. Tliese four, called the "Holy Lead," romnln ser-luded
in the church at Lebanon, and appoint sabordii?atc clerj^-. ini'ludini,' oiit> elder ia
eai'li family. Thfir Scriptures arc. contained in the " Holy f/iws " and Order
15 lok, which are claimed as works of iiisjiir itinn, and as jiartiy di.tatcd by the
J{»'cordin,%' .Vn;.;el, .dthoiejn they rnav be .lincnded or lescinded by tlie Holy Lead.
U-'like otlier .sects, the Siialieis claim that men may .join tlicir clnir.-li afterdcath,
and amoiiK other illustrious posthumou-i mcndiers, they count Washin<.jt(»n,
Lafayette, Napoleon, Tamerlane, and l'oc,ahonta.s. ■ l}y fr i^ality and imlustry
tiu-y give us many useful thing's, but they<lo not prodinx wh.it the Uepnblic most
tiecds, — men and women." *

The .seet has been declining,' since the death of its great hearl and her disciplo<»,
bci-anse it has nn jiDwcr; of internal ih;vclopment. Tliere are matiy Hhaker vil-
lages in the N. .\tlantic .SUxtcs, but the community at New Lebanon has dwindled
to 2 I- ;! 1 members.

:'. .M. S. W. of rittslield (by R H.) is a Shaker village, near Riihmond Pond,
and a little way to the X. of it is a mountain (in Ham-ock) wliere the d(!votoes or
this faith formerly held tiieir weird meetiui^. Tlieir tradition stito-4 that Iktc on
J! I. Sinai, tlie Sh.akers hunted Satan throughout a long snmm-r night, and finally
klili'd ami buried him. Over his grave, to this day, Wasiiington anl Lafayetle
keep guard, ninunted on white horses, ami are sci-'ti on summer nights by tho
faitluui who chance to pass their ancient shrine.

From Pitt.sfiekl the Ilousatouic R. P.. runs tlirough Southern Berkshire.
*' Of all the railroads near New York none can compare, for l)eauLy of
Bcencry, with the Ilousatonic from Xewtowu to Pittstielil, but especially
from New Milford to Lenox." (Bi:echi:r.) Fredrika Bremer spoak.s of
'■" the wonderfully picturesque and sometimes .splendidly gloomy scenery "
along the line of this railroad. By this route it is S M. to Lenox Station
(nas.siug Soutli Mt. on the r. ), from wliich stages ascend to the village in
2 ^L By a fine carriage road it is G M. S. of Pittsiield.

Hotels. Curtis's Hotel accommodates 80 -100 gi.ests at s^-LOOadny. with con-
siderable reductions for a long stay. There arc sevei-al large sumnier boarding-
liouses liere (Mrs Flint's, Mre. Clark's, &c.), more quiet and inc^cpensive than tho
liotel, and some of them better situated.

" Lienox, known for the singular purity and exhilarating effects of its air, and
for the beauty of its mountain scenery. If one sjicnds July or October in Lenov,
he will liardly seek annther home for tiie smnuijr. The. ciuirch .stands upon the
liighest point in the village, an<l if, in summer, one st.amls in the door and gazes
upon the vast panorama, he might, without half the I'salmi;;t's devotion, i)refop
to stiuid in the door of the Lord's house to a dwelling in tent, tabernacle, or man-
sion." So says lieecher, wlioso "Star Papers" were written during liis'sunnner
visits to Lenox, in a hou.se wdii(dj stood near the site now occu[tied by Gen. llath-
V one's mansion.

Fredrika Bremer wrote, "The country .around Lenox is romantically lovely,
uisjiircd with wood-covered hills and the ]irettiest little lake.i."

Tliis "gem among the mountains " (Silum.vn) was settled in 1750, and
received tlie family name of the Duke of Taehmond. It is situated on a
high hill, and contains the old Court IIoii.sc (which nov, luis a library and
reading room) and numerous villas pertaining to gentlemen of Eos'.on and
New Vo.k. Fanny Kemble (Butler) long resided here, and wished to ba
buried in the graveyard on the hill, saying, " I will not rise to trouble
any one if they will let mo sleep here. I will only ask to bo permitted,
once in a while, to raise my head and look out upon this glorious scene " j

» Much of the forcpolnp account hr..s horn condensed from Ilwlfrhts Travels. The editor
doe", uot know whether tlie govcmmtnt rcmuins now ia the same form.

148 Route 23. THE BEHKSIHIIE HILLS.

> *

I :

f I

and Beecher adds, " May slie l)ehold one so much fairer that this scenic
beauty si) all fade to a shadow." Lenox is the healthiest town in Berk-
Kliire, and is 1,300 ft. abo\e tlie seadevcl. 600 summer visitors remained
licre through tlie summer of 1S72.

Jiald Head is 2-3 M. from the village (carriago-road to tlie top). From
thi'; point is seen the rich Stockbridge Valley, the Bowl (Lake Mahkeenac),
and the wide Housatonic valley on the S., with Laurel Lake and Rattle-
f^nake Mt. on the S. E. On the N. and W. are Lenox and Oceola Mts.,
on the N. is South Mt., and on the E. are the tumultuous hills of Wash-
ington, '-a view wide, rich, and joyous."

The Stockbridge Bowl and Laurel Lake are S. W. and S. E. of Lenox,
— each being 3-4 M. distant (see Stockbridge and Lee). A pretty view
of Laurel Lake is gained from the first hill B. of the village, with Leuox
Furnace near it on the 1.

Perry's Peak is 6-7 M. distant, passing Lenox Mt. and Richmond
Valley, This lone summit, which stands on the frontier of New York, is
2,100 ft. high, and overlooks the Hudson, the Catskills, and the Green
^Its. New Lebanon, " the Shaker capital, and Gretna Green of Mass.," is
Lut 7-8 M. beyond the Peak.

At Lenox Furnace, 2 M. S. E. of the village, on the R. R., are extensive glass-
works, where, nmoni; otlicr varieties, the bust quality of plate-glass is made, from
jtuie granulated quartz.

Other exouisioiis arc to the Ledge, the Pinnacle, and Richmond Hill. J'he sun-
set view from Cliunli Hill (nt the N. end of the village) is one of great hsauty,
embracing even the distant Ureylouk.

lee is 4^ M, S. E. of Lctiox, hy the highway, and 5 M, by f:>tage and R.
R. Hotels, Morgan House ; Strickland House (in E. Lee).

Lee was settled in 1760, and was named for one of the Virginian Lees,
Avho were so distinguished in the Continental Army. Paper-making was
early commenced here, and now the business has assumed vast propor-
tions. But the town is most widely known for its excellent white marble,
ofv.'hicTi $1,000,000 worth was used in building the U. S. Capitol at
V/ashington. The (iuarri(is are close to the village on the S., and lie be-
tween the R. K. and the river. The State fronts the sea with a line of
granite and greenstone, while it fronts to the W. with hills of gneiss, slate,
mid marble. The Lee and Hudson, and Lee and New Haven Railroads are
projected routes, which, if finished, will increase the importance of the
town and diminish the romance of the Berkshire Hills.

Laurel Jjike is a pretty sheet of water 2 RL N. of Lee, that should be
visited in the late afternoon to catch " the delicate evening lights that
glance from its trautpiil suiface.''

The Yokuni Ponds are among the hills a few miles S. E, of the village,
Rud near the romantic Monterey road. The numerous summer visitors at
Lee make excursions to Stockbridge (4 M.), Lake Mahkeenac (4-5 M.,)
Tyringham and Monterey, (11 M.V and Ler.cx (4i M.).

THE 13EHKSIIIKE HILLS. lloutc 23. 149

IS SCOUIC

ill Berk-
eniained

). From
ikeenac),
I Kattle-
.la Mta.,
af Wash-

' Lenox,
tty view
li Leuox

ichmonJ

York, is

le Green

lass.," is

jive glass-
lade, from

•The sun-
lit beauty.

^e and R.

ian Lees,

iking was

: propor-

e marble,

*apitol at

id lie be-

a line of

ias, slate,

1 roads are

--§

ce of the

■ 'i^-

should be

ghts that

--^'

le village,

visitors at

■.^--

4-5 M.,)

''^^j.t;.

Stookbridge

(Stockbridge House, 70-80 guests, open only in summer. S 3.00 a day,
812-18.00 a week) is 6 M. from Lee by R. R., and 4 M. by the highway.
Stockbridge is one of the fairest of what Gov. Andrew called "the deli-
cious sui^jrises of Berksh're." It is " famed for its meadow-elms, for tho
picturesque beauty adjacent, for the ({uiet beauty of a village whicli
.sleeps along a level plain just under the rim of the hills." (Bkkchkii. )
The hotel fronts on the wide, main street; to its 1. is a beautiful littlu
marble fountain from Italy; and before it is the quaint and jiicturesque
Episcopal Church, of ivy-grown and weatlier-staincd wood, with its sweet
and deep-toned bell. On a verdant lawn near the church is a brown-
fitone shaft with sculptured trophies, inscribed, " To her sons, beloved
and honored, wlio died i'or tlieir country in the great war of the Rebellion,
Stockbridge, in grateful remembrance, has raised this monument." On
the same side of the street, to the W., the fourth house is the ancient
house where I']dwards wrote his famous treatise on " The Freedom of tlie
Will." Some distance beyond is the Congregational Ch\irch, with a large
cemeteiy in front of it. On tlie Green near by is a fine m..raorial monu-
ment to Edwards, built of jiolished Scotch granite.

On the main st., E. of the hotel, is the Jackson Library, a neat little
stone building containing 4 -.0,000 volunies, a cabinet of minerals, certain
relics of Edwards, and a marble tablet, on which are inscribed the names
of 134 officers and men who went from Stockbridge to the Secession War.
On the street diverging from the Library is a small Catholic Cliurch of
marble. Beyoml the Library is the old Academy with a long semicirclo
of elms in front, a copy, in living trees, of the stone porticos before St;.
Peter's Church in Rome. Back of the Academy is Laurel Hill, with a
turf rostrum m a glen surrounded by trees and I'ocks. Here in late
August of each year meets the Laurel Hill Association, devoted to pre-
serving, protecting, and increasing the beauty of tlio village ami its en-
virons. On the heiglits above the village are the mansions of David Dud-
ley Field (for 40 years a prominent N. Y. lawyer and jurist), II, M.
Field, D. D. (author, and for many years editor of the " Evangelist " ), Ivi-
son (the publisher), Prof. Joy (of Columbia College), and the old Mission
House, built by "the Great and General Court of His Majesty's Provinc3
of Massachusetts Bay " early in the last century. The view from thejo
heights, especially about sunset, is one of the most beautiful in nature
(it was pronounced by Dr. McCosh equal to any in Scotland), embracing
the rich valley of the Housatonic to the E. and W., with the valley of
Konkapot River stretching away in the S. to Monument Mt., Bear Mt.
iising close on the 1. and the tufted Evergreen Hill divi<ling the valley.

A great people crossed drop waterr. from a far-distant continent in the N. V\'.
anil m-nrlied by many pilgnmaiics to the scr.-ihoro and the valley of the Hudson.

•

150 Rnulc23. TJIl-: liEUKSIIIRE HILLS.

i'l

1 ;

1 i

1 t

,1 1

Ilcro tln-y built rilios and livpfl, until a pc-it famine srattf-rod them find vrry
many of tlifin died. Wandcrinj; for years in ((iiest of a iirecarious living, " tiiey
losl tiieir arts and manners," and a jtart of them settled by the Housatonic. River.
Hneh were traditions of the Muldiekanew Indians t(dd to I'resident l)\vi;.'lit. In
1734 the rolony established a mission, and sent John Hprgeant to teaeii the Mnh-
hekanews (" jieojile of the great moving waters ") at tiieir village of lloiissatonnuc.
wliich was named Stoetcbridge. 'I'iiis tribe was ever frii-ndly to tlie Englisli, anu
gladly receivetl the (iosjiel, lirst from the teaehings of Sergeant, who labored liere
1734- 4!», and translated the New Testament, and jiart of the Old, into tiieir
language. In \.> years he baptized 12!) Indians. He was succeeded by Jonathan
Edwards (preacliing by interpreters, 17r)l-7\ who in tnrn was sneeeeded by
Stephen \V(!st. .Many ol tlie Indians enlisted in the C'ontiminUd Army, and a
company of them won liigli distinction at the battle of Wliite I'laiiis. In 17rjl
there were 15(t Imlian families here, and bnt (i Kn^lish families ; bnt by 1783 tliR
balance had cliaiigc<l, and Jolin .Sergeant's son, tlien their jiastor, led the tribe to
New Stfjckliridge, on land givt n by the Oneiila tribe, in Western New York.
Abont 400 people were nnmbered in this emigratioii. They remainetl there ;!4
years, and tlieii moved to Wisconsin, where they stayed 17 years more, and aiiout
the year 1S40 moved to the; vicinity of Leavenworth, in Kansas. Where they have
been crowded to since, this record cannot tell.

In KiGO the great Hachem Checkatiil>nt, head of the Massachusetts Indians,
with 700 warriors, marchcil from the sea to the Hudson on a cam])aign against
the .Mohawks. TIk; latter, concentrating their IVirccs at the great tribal fortress,
repelled all assanlts and made tierce sorties, until the men of Massaehu.setts, llrid-
ing their ])rovisi()ns failing, and tlie whole country rising about their ears, beat a
retrezit. Their march was jn-obably directed on fStnckViriilge, as being the seat of
a rich, peaceful, and friendly trii)e, where they could hope to get food and aid.
13ut a powerful force i>f Moliawks, by a forced march, got ahead of them and laid
an ambush among the dense foi-ests and rugged ravines of Lhe Taconics (Tagh-
kanak, " tlie Avood place," or " Forest Hills"). The retreating warriors tell into
the snare, an<l in the long and desiicrate conllict which ensued, ('iieckatiibut and
58 of his sagamores were killed, together with a great portion of the men. Only
a handful succeeded in reaching the coast again.

At the close of King Philii)'s War, the remnants of the insurgent confederation
took refuge in the S. Berkshire Hills. But Talcott's " Flying Army," from the
K., and the Mohawks, from the W. made such devastating inroads upon them
that they sjieedily maiie their submission.

Among the natives of Htockbridge are H. M. Field. D. D., the editor; Cyni.<j
W. Field, the jM-ojector and organizer of the Atlantic Telegraph Cable ; E. Bacon,
the jurist ; J. H. llart, the author; and Caroline M. Sedgwick, the popular au-
tlHUcss of "Redwood," "Hope Leslie," &c.

Jonathan Edwards, the greatest of American metaphysicians, was bom in
Conn., 1703, and a ter 30 years of preaching he settled at Stockbridge. Here ho
wrote the remarkable treatise on " The Freedom of the AVill," in whose close and
subtle argument }ie maintained "that philosophic necessity was comjnitible with
freedom of the will, rightly delined, and with human responsibility. Tall and
.slender in jicrson, lit; had a high, broad, bold fortihead, piercing and. luminous
eyes, and a countenance indicative of sincerity and benevolence." The great re-
ligious awakening which convulsed the frozen churches of New England before
the middle of the last century was largely caused by his marvellous sermons, un-
evadable in their directness, incontrovertible in their logic, and terrific in their
luritl earnestness. Probably no preacher since Chrysostom has had such power
of striking convulsive terror into an audience ; and this he did simply by his
words ami by his intense earnestness, and without any of the graces or artifices
of oratory.

While President of New Jersey College, Edwards died (1758), leaving "The
Freedom of the Will," "Tht; Re'ligious Affections," and "The History of Ue-
dciinption," as his great moimments. These, and his other writings, includuijj
many sermons, lill 10 octavo volumes.

"These thn;e, Augustine, Calvin, and Jonathan Edwards."
*Lake Mahkeenac (Stockbridge V,o\\\) is 3-1 M. N. of the village by
admirable roads. This is a bcatitifui, calm lake, surrounded by hills, and

THE BERKSHIRE HILLS. Route 23. 151

■i

■with the village find Kpiro of Curtisvillc jieering above the trees on the S.
The best way is to go up by t..o road on the heights, leaving Mahlioenuc
on the 1. and passing around its N. end, return on a road W. of the Lake
through Curtisvillc. 5 niin. walk from the latter village is a beauliful
little tani called Lake Averick, or Mountain Mirror. Hawthorne lived
in a little rod farndiouso near ^lahkeonac for a year and a half (18.">0-51),
but remembered the many-sounding sea on whose shores he was bom and
had lived, and says but littlo ai)out this mountain-water. But he found
rare i)lcasure in watching the mountains themselves. " In its autumn
lines, Monument Mt, looks like a headless sphinx wrapped in a rich Per-
sian shawl" ; ''this valley in which I dwell seems like a vast basin filled
with sunshine as with wuie; and the changes of the seasons on Monu-
ment and Bald Mts., and the black-purple dome of Taconic, with the
winter sunset which has a softness and delicacy Avhich impart themselves
to a white marble world."

* Monument Mt. is 3-4 M. from Stockbridge. The Great Barrington
road is followed to tlie top of the ndge, then a wood-road diverges to tlio
r. Wi)eiw2 M. from the N. summit a i>alh is taken which conducts to
Pulpit Rock, the Profile (beyond the N. summit), kc. On the E. side is
a white quartz cliff of vast depth, detached from which is the Pulpit.
From the summit a noble * view is gained, embracing the Ilousatonic Valley
for many leagues, with its fair villages and mountain-walls, while the
Green Mt. and Greylock tower in the N. and the Catskills may be seen
in the \V., if the day is clear.

" To the north a pnth
Conducts yon Tip the narrow l):ittleinent«.
Strep is the wostcrn side, shopgy nnd wild,
With many trees nni\ jiinnucles of flint.
And manv a linnphty ernjr. But to the cast
Sheer to the vale so down the hiire old elifTs,
Huge pilliirs that in middle Heaven iinrear
Their weather-bentcn capitals — here dark
With the thick moss of centuries, and there
Of chalky whiteness, where the thunderbolt
Hath smitten them." — Bryant.

The Mt. derives its name from a eaim whirii was, made of stones, to •which
each passing Indian added a stone. The legend states that it was raised over a
bijautiful maiden who passionately loved her cousin, and being forbidden by tlio
Indian laws to marry him, she threw herself from a lofty clitf and was dashed in
jncces.

Icy Glen is about U M. from Stockbridge, by the road crossing the R. R. just
to tlie 1. of the station, — and leaving the road near some houses at the mt. foot,
go Tip into a romantic glen, with seats arranged about it. From this point a wil(l
chaos of rocks, caverns, and trees extends through a long ravine, where ice is
found in July. This i.s t!ie N. end of Bear Mt., on who.se top an ob.sen'atorj- has
been i-aiscd, commanding a neat view. It is gained ])y crossing the river on a
wire foot-bridge near the Main St., and takiiig a pleasant forest-path up the slope.

Ex(!ursions are made from Stockbridge to Leo, Lenox, Great Barrington, and
Mt. Everett, also to the romantic and desolate town of Monterey (11 M. S. E.).

"If you wish to be tilled and satisfied with the serenest delight, ri<le to the
summit of this encircling hill-ridge " (above Stockbridge) in a summer's afternoon,
while the sun is but an hour high. The Hou.satouic winds, in great circuits, all
through the valley, earrj'ing willows and alders with it wherever it goes. The

' ,

152 R(nUc23. THE BERKSHIRE HILLS.

horizon on every side is pilod and terraced witli mountains. Abrupt and isolated
mountains bolt up here and there over the whole stretch of plain, covered with
evergreens." (Bef.chkr.)

Oreat Barrington is S. of Stockbridge, 8 M. by R. R,, 6^ M. by high-
way.

Hotels: Berkshire Hotel, a roomy old stone building, $10-14.00 a
week; Miller's Hotel. This "is one of those places which one never en-
ters without wishing never to leave. It rests beneatli the branches of
great numbers of the stateliest elms." (Bkixher.) Fine macadamized
roads are built around the place, on which excursions are made to Monu-
ment Mt. (-4 M.), Monterey (8 M.), and Sheffield (6-7 M.). In the vi-
cinity is a curious rock formation called Purgatory, while a path leads to
the top of E. Mt. in 2 M. The Berkshire Soda iSprinr/s (small hotel) aic;
about 3 M. to the S. E., amid wild scenery. S(;veral fine villas are in the
outskirts of the village, and the Cong, and Epis. churches, on the main
street, are fine buildings.

A daily stage nms to New Marlboro' (Centre House), which has a large cave
with .stalactites, a rocking stone of 30 tons, and Hermit PtMid, near which a lone
hermit lived from 1770 till his death, in 1817. He was a woman-hater, and epito-
mized the female character thus, : —

" They sny they will, and they won't ;
What they promise to do, they don't."

W. of New Marlboro' is Sandisfield, with Seymour and Hanging Mts. and Spec-
tacle Ponds. Here was born Col. John JJrown (1744), a lirave partisan officer in
the Revolutionary War, whose fearless and fanatical Puritan grandson. John
Brown, invaded the powerful State of Virginia at the head of 20 men (Oct. 16,
1850), intending to become the liberator of the slaves of the South. The Virginian
militia gathered quickly, attacked him at Harper's Ferry, killed most of his men
(including his two sons), and ca'ptured the wounded leader. He was hung, ac-
cord hig to the sentence of the law, in November, "and met death with serene
composure."

A daily stage runs from Great Barrington to N. and S. Egremont, 4-5 M. S. E.
The Mt. Everett Hou.se, in S. Egremont, is a small and secluded summer-hotel,
situated about 5 M. from the lofty Mt. Everett, and in a thinly settled town
abounding with lakes. The a.scent of Mt. Everett is "along a vast, luiculti-
vated slope, to the height of nearly 2,000 ft., when you reach the broad valley
where the few inhabitants reside, in tlie centre of a vast pile of mts." The
town has but 256 inhabitants. Dr. Hitchcock thus describes tlie * view from Mt.
Everett : " You feel yourself to be standing above everything around you, and
possess the proud consciousness of literally looking down ui)on all terrestrial
scenes. Before you on the E. the valley through which the Housatonic meanders
stretches far N. in Mass., and S. into Conn. ; s}>rinklcd over with copse and glebe,
with small sheets of water and beautiful villages. To the S. E. a large sheet of
water appears, of surpassing beauty. In the S. \V. the gigantic Alander, Riga,
and other mts. more remote, seem to bear the blue heavens on their heads in
(^alm majesty ; while stretching across the far distant W. the Catskills hang like
the curtains of the sky. O what a glorious display of mts. all around you ! This
is certainly the gi-andest prospect in Mass., though others are more beautiful."

Mt. 'Washington town was an apjtauage of tlie great Livingston Manor, of New
York, and was first settled by the Dutch, as were Egremont, Great Barrington,
Sheffield, and Salisbuiy. The tourist may wonder at the apparent lack of origi-
nality displayed iii the name of the town, but without reason, since this is tlie
first of the many American towns named in honor of the great Virginian, its name
having been given by the State Legislature in 1776, as being a fitting title for the
loftiest town in Mas.sachusei,ts.

■I

THE BERKSHIRE HILLS. lioxitc 2.i. 153

In Egreinont occurred the last engagement in Shays' reliellion. when the insur-
pents, after plundering Stockbriflge, were attucketl here by the Great liiirrington
militia, and 40-fiO were killed and wounded.

Bash-Blsh Falls (see Halisbury, Conn.) are about 10 M. from the Mt. Everett
House, by a road runiiinK down through Mt. Wasliin;.rton, and around Cedar Mt.
The view.s of Mt. Everett, Elk, Alaiider, and Cedar Mts. are line.

6 M. S. of Great Barriiigton is Sheffield (Miller's Hotel, small), ** full

of rural simplicity and lieauty, richly decorated with lovely valley and

majestic mountain scenery." It is a ([uiet village, with a broad, shady

street, in a ricli intervale of the Housatouic, and is chiefly noted for it«

marble, of which Girard College (Philadelphia), with its huge columns,

was built. Pictures(iue roads run S. into Salisbury, and N. W. into

Egremont.

Bishop .Tane.s, of the Methodist Chureh : D. D. Bamanl, 8 years M. C. and
Minister to Prussia, iHl'J-5:{; V. A. i'. Bamanl, President of Columbia College
since 18G4 ; H. D. and T. Hcd^'wick, lawyei-s. the latter of whom wad derided tor.
introducing' a bill in tlie Iie-,'islatnre, i)ro,ieetin!t,' a railroad from Boston to Albany
(1827) ; Chester Dewey, D. 1)., ch-n^yman and l>ot;niist ; Orvdlo Dewey, D. D., the
Unitiuian divine ; and Judge Daniel Dewey, — were natives of Shcflleld.

Northern Berkshire

is approached from Pittsfield by the Pitlsfiold and N. Adams Branch R.
R. There is also a romantic road leading through the western valleys and
remote from the R. R., passing Pontoosuo Lake, and then through the
glens between the Saddle- Back Range and that line of mts, which stretch
from Old Tower Hill to the tall peak of Berlin xMt. Tliis road passes
through the villages of Lanesboro, New Ashford, and S. Williamstown.
The R. R. first crosses part of Lanesboro (station, Berkshire, 2 small
hotels), a town which has beds of snow-white granular quartz, used here
in the manufacture of superior cylinder glass. Variegated marble al.'so
abounds here. In 1(576 King Philip attacked Lanesboro with 1,500 men,
and effected its destruction. H. W. Sliaw was bom in this tnwi in 1818,
and has since 18(53 attained a higli reputation as a humorist, under tho
name of "Josh Billings." The line here enters the valley of tho Hoosac
River, which it follows to N. Adams. Cheshire is the next town, in a
fertile alluvial valley surrounded by lofty hills. Tliis town is famous for
its dairies, and in 1802 its people sent as a New Year's gift to President
Jefferson a mammoth cheese weighing 1,4;jO pounds. Before reaching
Cheshire Harbor tlie great Saddle- Back Range begins, on the W., about 2
M. from the track. A road leadcs from Cheshire Harbor E. into Savoy,
a wild mt. town, with one small village called Savoy Hollow (Green Mt.
House).

S. Adams (the birthplace of Susan B. Anthony) is next reached. From
S. Adams is the shortest and easiest of the routes to the top of the ma-
jestic Greylock Mt. which towers over the valley. This is the highest mt,
in Mnss. .and commands a *view "immense, and of amazing grandeur."

7 *

154 Route S3. THE RERKSIllRE HILLS.

Till! road runs W. uinl then N., crossing a spur of the mt., from which
l»rctty \iews of the vulh-y of the Iloosac and its villages are gained. De-
ficending now <A'er a very rough road, the Notch (sometimes called tho
iJcllowH I'ipt", from Ihc gusts whicli draw through it) is entered. Tho
mt. just crossed is called Mt. Hawks. At Waldeu's house the Notch
road is left, and Mt. Williams is rounded on its N. side, then the clcaririg
hetwccn Mts. Williams a.id Prospect is j)asscd ; the long W. slope of a
ridge is ascended, and alttr a southerly walk the summit is attained. A
straightor and simi)U'r, though less pictures(pie, way is right up the S.
slope from S. Adams.

The simniii) of (Jrcylock is iiartially rlp.irrd, and ovp.-lnoks tho valley of tlio
Iloosac oil tlie N. with its villa^'cs, and the peaks of tlie (Jnieii Mts. beyond. N.
olio, anil .S. of K., nearly GO Al. away, are Mts. Monndnock and VVaehusett ; (hio
S. E., nearly 40 M. distant, are Jrlts. Tom and Holyoke. .Southward are the many

{leaks of the Berkshire Ilills, bounded by Mt. Everett, with Pittslield and its
akes, and other villages and towns. S. W. are the Calskills, and it is thought tiint
the Mts. in the N. AV. are those which environ Lake (ieorge. Saddle Mt. and
Saddle Ball are close to (jreyloek, and resjjectively N. ami S. The jintlis to tho
Hununit of (Jreylock are diliicult and easily lost, and the excursion will require a
long day.

N. Adams (* Wilson House, expensive and first-class, with 100 rooms,
Imilt by Wilson, the sewing-machine inventor ; Berkshire House) is a
prosperous manufacturing village, on the Iloosac River. It has 20 cotton
and woollen milis, and various other industri'js, employing 3,600 hands,
and turning out § 7 - 8,000,000 worth of goods a year. Some neat villas
and a tine high-school house have been built, and tho town expects great
benefit when the Hoosac Tunnel is done, by the junction of railroads here.
The population in 1870 was 12,092.

About 1 M. from the villape (to the E.) i.s the Natural Bridrje, on ITiulson's
Brook, when; the waters have woni a passage tlirougli tlie solid rock 30 rods long
and l^ ft. wide, leaving an arch of stained marble above it at a height of 30-60
ft. This cavernous jiassage was a favorite resort of Hawthorne, who spent the
sununcr of l.«;;?8 at N. Adams, and often bathed in the waters of the brook. " The
cave makes a fresli im]ire.ssion upon me every time I visit it, — .so deep, so in "gular,
80 gloomy, so stern ; part of its walls the pure white of the marble, others covered
witii a gray decomjHJsition and with spots of nio.'^s, ami with brake growing where
there is a handful of earth. I stand and look into its depths at various points,
and liear the roar of the stream re-echoing up. It is like a heart tliat lias been
rent asunder by a torrent of passion, Avhich has laged and foamed, and left its
ineffaceable traces ; though now there is but a little rill of feeling at the bottom."

The Ciutcmlc in Notch Brook is about 1^ M.from the hotel, and has a fall of 30 ft.
It is situated in a pretty glen.

From the hill E. of the village are " various excellent views of mt.
scenery, far and near," with " Greylock, appearing, with its two summits
and a long ridge between, like a huge monster crouching down slumber-
ing, with its head slightly elevated." Other fine prospects are gained
from +he various hills which surround the village.

2 M. S. is the W. end of the * Hoosac Tunnel. This stupendous piece
of engineering is designed to furnish a shorter route by 9 M. than now

, f

THE liEUKSIIIKE HILLS.

Roule S3.

ir)5

im wliich
cd. I)e-
illed tho
ed. TIio

10 Notch
i clcarin{»
ope of :i
ined. A
ip the S.

loy of iho.
yoiul. N.
isett ; due
! the iiiuny
(1 and its
ju^lit lliut
e Mt. and
Ilia to tho
require a

10 rooms,
)use) is a
20 cotton
30 hands,
leat villas
cts great
)ads here.

Hudson's
) rods U)ng

of m - 60

spent the
lii. "The
) in "gular,
rs covered
viny where
us points,

lias been
lid left its
e bottom."
ill of 30 ft.

vs of mt.
> summits
slumber-
re gained

lous piece
than now

exists from Boston to tho Hudson, with easy grailes. By opening a new
line to the West, it is hoj>ed to re»luce l»y competition the jircsent hi^'h
tarilTs on through freight. The tunnel is to be 4'^ M. long, cut through
the IIoosaL Mt., whose vast bulk running N. and S. closed the way. Tho
Nertlie Tunnel in B. Frrucc, and the Woodhead Tunnel in F^ngland, an)
each nearly '6 M. long ; so the Iloo.sac Tunnel will bo second oidy to that
at Mt. Cenis, which is 7^ M. long. Tho work is nf)w undertaken liy tho
State, and has been a fearful drain on the treasury, having already cost,
since 1855, §5-6,000,000, and half as much more will bo needed In
finish it. Less than 2,000 ft. of excavation now remains to be done, and
it is tliouglit that the E. and W. cuttings will meet by Nov., 1S73. From
a valley between the peaks of the Iloosac Mt. a great shaft has been sunk
to the grade level, and the boring operations have been conducted in each
way from this point toward the excavations at the E. and W. ends. Tn
1872, the cntting which was being ma<le from the shaft westward met tho
tuimel from tho W. end in the heart of the mountain.

Tlie mountain consists of solid niiiua slate, except at tlu! \V. end, whcro
great trouble was given by a soft, treacherous " porridge stone," through
which a tube of brick 900 ft. long was built. Tlie cuttings through tlie
biate-rock are done by power drills propelled by conii)ressed air (pressure
of 6 atmospheres) and are afterwards exploded by nitro-glycerinc.
I Six-horse stages leave North Adams daily for the passage of Iloosac
I Mt. to tlio E. end of the tunnel (8 M.). After a long, slow ascent by zig-
zag gradients, the W. crest of Hoosac is gained, with a view of Greyloclc
in the S. W. and the broa<l sweep of the Taconic Hills from the parent
range in Vermont to the blue and cloudlike soutlicm peaks. S. Adams
is plainly visible, and the valley of the Hoosac stretcliing W., and tho
broad, central valley of Berkshire running S. Descending the slope to tho
plateau, the buildings over the Central Shaft are seen. The lofty and
winter-worn plateau is soon crossed and the E. summit is climbed.

A noble view is obtained from this point, above tho romantic i;c)rKe of tho
Doerfield River to Wachusevt Mt., "and beyond it the blue and indistinctive
scone extended to the E. and N. for at least (>() M. Beyond the hills it lool-ed
I almost as if tlie blue ocean might be seen. Monadnock was visible, like a saji-
jiliire cloud against the sky. The scenery on the E. side of the (Jrecn Mts. is in-
eoin])aral)ly mere striking than on tlie W. where the long swells and ridges havt a
flatness of eif'ect. But on the eastern part, jieaks 1-2,000 ft. higli ni.sh up "ii
eitlier bank of the river in ranges, thrusting out their shoulders side by side.
Sometimes tho preeii)ice rises with abrui>tness from the imiuediate side of tite
river; sometimes tliero is a vaUcy on either side; cultivated long and with all
the smoothness and antiiiue runility of a farm near cities, this ge itle ]iiclmc is
strongly set off by the wild nit. frame around it. I have never Iriven tlinngh
such rumantic scenery, when; there was such variety and boldness of mt. sliapcs
as tliis ; ami though" it was a sunny day, the mts. diversified the view with sun-
shiuo and shadow, and glory and gloom." (Hawthokxe.)

1 At Hoosao Tunnel station, at tlie E. foot of the nit., one meets the

U\\h\i^ of the Vt. an<l :\IaHs. 11. K.

15G Route i3. THE nKRKSHIUi: HfLLS.

•?i!

I'5

About 1 M. W. of N. AtlmnH, ami beyond the small factorj- vilhigo of
Braytonvillo, tlio road to WilliainNtown itoshos tlic railroad aiul tlie Iloo.sar
River. Nuar thi.i .Tossing a small olm is seen in a mradow about 20 rods
from the track. This eliii stamls on the site of old I'ltrt Massachusetts,
" the Thtrmoi>yl{r of New Eni^dand." (Evkkktt.)

This was built in 1744 ns onf of n ronlnn of fort« to proti-rt the front iem. Fort
Diuiinicr K'lanifd tlif N. nmlr ddwii tin- ( onii. vality, and this fort was to bloclv
\\\) till! W. roulf tliinii-Ii tie IIiiiis(fii, llfiosac, ami T)('i'i(lfl(l v;illcys. In IT-l'i
Col. Willinjiis ami many ni< ii iminli»Ml lioncc to Allinny to join tlic nrniy for in-
vadin.'^ Canada, l>ut inciiiiw liilc tlic •■iicmy li.id iiiaiic a ll;inl< nianli, and tiie Chev-
alier dc Vaiidrt'iijl atl.'uKfd ijir fmt lit tin- licid of !ioo rrctich and Indians. Scr-
Roant IlawUs and '22 men held llic jilacc for 4H hours apiinst this ovcrwholniini,'
force, and only surn-ndcrcd wlii-n cm ly i^iniu of iiowdcr was exhausted. The
Franoo-Imlian force lost 47 men l»c(ore the furt.

From Fort Massadinsctts the highway, railroad, and river run through
the narrow valley lo Williamstown (Mansion Ibmse, 125 guests). This
is a beautiful village situated in a fertile valley which is grandly moun-
taiii-walled. From its air of aeadenne (luiet it will be preferred as a
summer-home to its neighbor, N. Adams, wliieh is too j.rosperous to 1x5
still. The reason of Williamstov/n's being is Williams College, a nour-
ishing institution (founded in 1793), with 11 instruetors and 101 students.
W. Co]lege and Kellogg Hall a?'e opi)Osite President Hopkins's house on
the main street, and beyond them, to the E., is a cluster of buildings
embracing the Chapel, Alunnd Hall, the octaf-oiud Lawrence Hall (con-
taining a library of 12, '^00 volumes, many portraits of graduates, and
some bas-reliefs from Nineveh), the E. and S. Colleges, the fine stone
stnicture called Goodrich Hall, and GrifTm Hall, Opposite the latter is a
brownstone shaft sustaining the bronze statue of a soldier. It was erected
in memory of the students of the college who died in the Secession War.

Col. Ephraim Williams, the founder of Williams Collc-ro, was born at Newton,
Mass., in 1715. He was lieut. -colonel of the 8th Ma.ssacdiusetts IU% at the siej/e
of Louisbourg, in 174.5, and commanded the trans-Connecticut forts from 1718 In
1755. In 1755, with his regiment, lie joined Gen. Johnson's army, and whih' dI
Albany he made a will leaving his estate for tlie erection of a school in a town io
be located W. of Fort Mass. to be called Williamstown. Shortly after, wliile,
marching with 1,200 men to engage Diesk.au near Lake George, his command
was ambushed and overpowered, and Col. Williams was killed. The school v.as
established in 17!iO, in a brick linilding (the present W. College), and was char-
tered as Williams College in 170.'i. Its presidents have been F)r. E. Fitcli (17{';5-
1S1.5), Dr. Z. H. Moore (1S15- 21), Dr. E. D. Griltin (1821-30), and Mark Hoplun.s,
D. D., LL. D., an able and active writer and scholar.

. Near W. College is ^f^lls Park, with a marble .shaft surmounted by a
globe, which indicates the place Avhere Samuel J. Mills, " the Father of
Foreign Missions in America," and his comjianious, consecrated themselves
to the mission-cause (1807). Mills originated the A. B. C. F. M., and the
American Bilde Society, and died at sea (after exploring Liberia for a site
for a colony of freedmen) at the early age of 35.
About 2 M. N. of the village is the famou.s Sand Sjmng, with e.vten-

NEW YOUK TO QUKnEC. Hnute SI 157

■ village of
the TlooHac
lit 20 rnd^
■^.sachusetts,

it lent. Fort,
viiH to Mod;
ys. In 17in
niniy for iii-
1(1 tlic Clitv-
Kliaiis. Sor-

VtMWllcllIlillt,'

uiskd. Tin;

mi tliroupli
l^sts). This
iitlly niouii-
ifeiTcd an ii
[;ron8 to bo
ge, a llonr-
Dl stiKlunts.
i's house on
oi LuiUliiigs
e Hall (coii-
(luates, and
e line stone
le latter is a
; was erected
lession War.

•n at Newton,
, nt tlie sii'frn
s from 17 IS In
lUi'l while ill
in a town to
' after, wliilc,
his command
he school was
nd was char-
Fitch (17t>:{-
ark Hoi)ldn.s,

ountcd by a
e Father of
i themselves
M.,aud the
da for a site

with exten-

Hive bathing-housi's. Tlie abiunhmt waters maiiitaln a teinperatiuv of
about 7<>', Rixl an; benilhial in nitaii^'ouH dist aNts. * (jreyloik ilall is a
lav^e new hotel recently (»])eiu'd at this poi.it, coninianding jileawaiit val-
ley views. A siiort walk to the iV. lett<ls into the riiggetl town of I'ownul,
ill tlie State of Vtrniout.

About 18 M. N. W. (by U. U.) isth'.' Bennington battle-field, near iloo-
Kw. Junction, in the State of New York.

Mt. Hopkins, 8. of WilliainHtown, is often ascended (2,800 ft.) for the
f ake of its views of Greylock, the Ctreen and Taconic Mts. the valleys of
tin- Hoosac ind Green Rivers, and the far-iUstaiit Hudson.

The Hopper is a gulf surrounded by a vast amphitheatre of mts., gained
by ;i road running S. from the colleges, which is left about 4 M. out, and
a wood-road is followed uii the glen in which flows Money Urook. The
three walls of the Hopper are Hald Mt. (S.), Prospect Mt. (N.), and
(Jicylock on the E. Far up in this stupendous gulf are the finest ea.sca<le.s
in lU-rkshire, rarely visited and difhcult of access. A noble view down
tiie Hopper is obtained from liald Mt. which is crossed in the ascent of
(Jieylock, sometimes ascended on this side.

S. Williamstown (small inn) is a village about midway {2h M.) between
the Greylock grouj) on the E. and the New York Mt. of Berlin on the N.
W. The Snow Glen (wliere snow remains always) and Flora's Glcu
(wlicre William CuUen Bryant composed " Thanatojisis " while a student
at Williams College, and but 18 years old; it was first jiublished 5 years
alter, in 1817, in the "North American Review " ) are favorite resorts near
Williamstown.

The Troy and Hostoii R. R. runs to Troy, in New Yc" , 44 M. from "beautiful
Williunistown on her cla.s»ic heiyhts."

24. New York to Quebec.

Also New Haven, nurtfonl, and Sitrin^iliild to Montreal, Ouebec, and the
FiaiK'onia Mts. Distances, New York to Queliec, 5'JO M. • to Ljuxc Memjihreina-
go^', a<J5 M. ; New Haven to Quebec, 45.'i M. ; Hartford to Quebec, 417 M. ;
bprinylield .o Quebec, 31»1 M ; Sprinyfield to Lake Menii>lireniagoy, li^D M.

The line between New York and Springfield is described in Route 21.
In the station at Springfield the traveller leaves the New York and Bos-
ton train, and gets into the cars of the Conn. River R. R. Time is usually
allowed for refreshments (small restaurant in the station; if time allows,
the best dinner in New England may be obtained in the Massasoit House,
alongside the station).

The first station N. of Springfield is Chioopee {Cabot House). The
Dwight Go's, Cotton Mills, at this place, employ 2,000 hands, with 70,000
spindles, and make ^ 20,000,000 worth of goods yearly. The Ames
Manufacturing Co. employ 4-500 men in makhig machinery, brass can-
non, fine swords, and bronze statuary. The equestrian statue of Wash-

■^;

158 RcmU^l

NKW YORK TO QUEBEC.

inf^on, at Boston, many soldie.'s' monuments, and the superb bronzo
floors of the Senate at Wasliington were cast here. The doors of the
House pf Keprcstintatives were cast at Munich, and those of the Senate
were to have been made there, but the over-prudent Bavarians demanded
prepayment from th.; U. S. Government (it was the darlccst year of the
Secession War). With a i)roper spirit this was refused, and the work
was givn to the Cliicopee Foundry, thougli but little was IcMied from it.
To tlie surprise of all, the doors wore finished admirably, and challenge
comparison with the best of Munich work. During the Rebellion, this
foundry was woi'ked night and day, and suppl;i.d the Republic with vast
amounts of shot and shell, and ovor ],00C cannon.

At Cliicopee Falls, 2 M. H, are cotton-mills employing 1,000 hands,
besides large factories which make farmers' tools.

Station, Willimansett, about 2 M. N. of which is S. lladley (S. Iladle,
Falls Hotel), a pretty village on a hill near the river. This is the seat of
the famous Mt. Ilolyohe Female Seminary, " designed to give a solid,
extensive, and well-b.ilanced English education," while tlie pupils are re-
quired to do the general housework of the institution, for the sake of a
thorough knowledge of that useful art. After leaving Willimansett, the
line crosses the Coimecticut and stops at Holyoke Station {Ilolyohe
House ; Samoset House). This is a rapidly growing manufacturing place
of 11 -12,000 inhabitants, and is located at the South lladley Falls,
which furnish the greatest water-power in New England. Timothy Dwight
speaks of " the fantastic beauty, excessive force, and sublime majesty of
these Falls Until I visited this spot, I kncAv not that it was possible for
water to become so beautiful an object." Within 1^ M. the river falls 6C
ft., and opposite the town a dam has been built 30 ft. high and over 1,000
It. long, throwing the water into a canal system 3 M. in aggregate length-
which can furnish pr ./er enough to drive 1,000,000 spindles. The origi-
nal dam of 1 847 Avas burst away before the water had fdled it, and the
jircsent one (1849) contains 4,000,000 ft. of lumber, spiked to the ledges
on the botton of the river, and plated with boiler-iron. Tlie leading
staple of Holyoke is paper of all sort?, of which about 5,000 tons are
made annually by 800 v/orkmen. 750 men are engaged in the thread
mills; 450 in making woollen cloths (beavers, doeskins, and cassimeres);
and about 2,000 operaiives make 5-0,000,000 yards of cotton cloths,
prints. &c., yearly.

Holyoke has about 11,000 inhabitants, and is surrounded on three sides
by the river. It is now building a new Town House, at an expense of
$ 170,000, and otherAnse adorning its streets, which run along the E. side
of a hill.

At IihjlesiJe, 2^ M. from Holyoke, is a favorite sumuier-resort upon the high-
lands which overlook the valley.

NEW YORK TO QUEDEC. R'-cUQl 159

)erb l)ronzo
oors of tho
the Senalo
s demaiuuHl
year of the
cl the work
ted from it,
il clialler.ge
bellion, tliis
c with vast

,000 hands,

' (S. Iladlo,

the seat of

ive a solid,

ipils are re-

e sake of a

nansett, tlie

in ( Uolyoke

turing jdace

idley Falls,

jthy Dwight

majesty of

possible for

•iver falls 6C

d over 1,000

gate length-

The origi-

It, and the

the ledges

Tlie leading

)00 tons are

the thread

eassimeres) ;

tton cloths,

1 three sides

expense of

the E. side

pon the high-

The railroad passes ont in full view of the great dam, whose fine water-
« fall has been removed by the necessity of 1 uildiiig out an ineline'd j)lane,
to prevent tlic eating out of tlie ledges by the heavy peipendicular fall.

After leaving Ilolyoke the line nnis N, between the river and tho long

rimgo of Mt. Turn (on the 1,), while J//, lh>hjr.1:c is seen ahead on tlia r.

Tlie train now jiasses through the gap between these two nits,, and xVm-

lierst and Mt, Warner are visible on tho r, front, leagues away over tho

rich vrdley, while Easthampton and Pomeroy's Mt, are scon on the 1.

The line crosses the river to Ox Bow Island, which was a peninsula until

1S40, when a rush of the swollen river cut through its isthmus. After

crossing the rich intervales bordering on the river, the train enters

Northampton.

Noiiotuck was bonj^ht of its Indian owners, in 1G53, for 100 fathoms of wampum,
10 coats, &(•,, jinil was iianu'(l Nortlinni])ton, since many of its settlei-s camo t'roni
tliat En><lisli town. .Solomon iStodilanl was for ;J0 years pastor here, ami was a
man of j^'ravo and majestic appe iranee. He rode once throu;,'li an aml>usli in tho
forest, ami when the French soldiers were ahont to shoot iiim, the awe-strucl; In-
dians stoojied them, savin,!,', "That is the Enf^ishmen's God," The villaije wan
svuTonndcd hy a palisade and wall, which, however, was stormed in three jdaeea
liy Kint? Philip's Indians (1070). Tl'ree veteran eonipanies were del'-ndin.:^ tluj
})iaee, and after a desperate eonllict in the streets the assailants were driven out.
The church was built in lUoo, at a cost of ii 14, and was "20 ft, by 18. The present
old church is the fourth on that site. The Christians were called to meeting; by
the blasts of a trumpet :

" Each innn eniiipp'"! on Sunday mom, And looked in form- ns nil mn.it prant.

With psuliuuucik, shut, and powder-huiii, Like th ancieut truu church militant."

McriNOAL,

In the old er meterv'are 1 ried 4 Senators nf the United Stjdes, — Ashmun, Mills,
Bates, and rttroiiR, the latter of whom was for 11 years (lov. of Mass., and. opj)os-
ing the War of 1S12, limited the exertions of tho iState to her own defence. Hero
also is l)uried David Hrainerd, a heroic and jinwerful missionary to the Indians,
author of " Mirabilia Dei apud Indi(50s," and son-in-law of .lonathan Edwards.
Edwards was pisbtr here, 1727 -Til), and "was dismissed fcjr insisting on a higher
and purer standard of ailiuission to the eojumunion tabic" The Dwiirhts. Aliens,
and Ti'ppans were Northampton families jirolitic in altln men, and W. D. Whit-
ney, the leading American iiKiluloyiat (ono ot the tincsL yanscrit Bchoiara iu the
world) was bom liere in 1827.

Northampton (* Fitch's Hotel ; Mansion House ; Warner House) " is
the frontispiece of the book of beauty which Nature opens wide in the
valley of the Conn," An Engli.sh tourist (Stuart, in 1833) calls it "the
most beautiful village in America." Its broatl and shaded streets and
handsome villas are placed in a rich tract of broad intervale and about 1
M. from the river. Tliere are a number of stores and public buildings on
the broad street near Fitcli's Hotel (anew and extensive housa), and in
this vicinity is the brownstone building occupied by the Trustees of the
Hnxilh Chanties.

Oliver «mith, of Hmfield, died in 1845, leaving $370,000 for charitable objects.
The youths and maidens and widows of the eight adjacent towns receive, under
certain conditions, loans, dowries, and small pensifni.. from this fund. By skill-
ful management on the part of the Trustees (who are chosen by elec^tors from the
eight towns), the funds had increased by 1800 to §854,000, and by tlie terms of

I "

»'■ i

IGO Hvuie24. NEW YOUlv TO QUEBEC.

Mr. Smith's will, the whole amount (whatever it may be at that time) is to be do-
voted to the estalilishmt'iit of an aj/ri cultural school in this town in the year 1906.

The Fariniu^'ton Canal w.i.s conipleted in 1831, at a cost of $GOO,000. It was 78
M. lonjr, running from Xorthamiit'iu to New Haven, and has been disused since
the railroads were built.

The New Haven and Northampton Railroad (Route lo) runs hence to New
Haven (70 M.) in 3-3^ houis. Also to Williamsburg, M. N. W.

On a beautiful liill W. cf the village, and surrounded by groves of
forest trees, is the large and imposing * Jlmind Hill Water-Cure and
Hotel (open all the year), with Tiu-kish and chemical baths, billiards,
bowling, a band of music, and accommodations for 200 guests. This site
was once occupied by a famous classical school, the Massachusetts Eton,
founded in 1823 by George Bancroft, the historian, and J. G. Coggswell,
the author. The views thence are very extensive and jjleasing. On the
same hill is the 67fl>7je 7/?6Y<7«^iV;i /<//• Mutes (endowed with $300,000),
which teaches the system of articulation in place of the sign alphabet. It
accommodates 80-90 persons. In the same vicinity (1 M. W. of the
village) is the * State Lunatic Asijluvi, with imposing buildings which
pccommodate 350 patients. Tliese buildings are 512 ft. long, and have 4
acres of floors, and are under, the superintendence of Dr. Pliny Earle.

Florence is 2\ M. W. of the village, and is the seat of several factories, the
f'Lief of Wiiich is that o! the Florence Sewing-Macliine Co. In their great quad-
rnigle of works this comi)any makes 12-l.!),(tu0 sewinp-machines yearly.

Mt. Tom (more properly called Nonotuck) is directly S. of Northampton
(4-5 M. by road). It is 200 ft. higher than Mt. Holyoke, and commands a wider
view, but is seldom visited, on account of the difficulty of its ascent.

*Mt. Holyoke, "the gem of Mass. Mts.," is 3 M. S. E. from North-
ampton. A carriage-road winds upward to the summit, but the usual
route is by horse-cars from the ferry to the mountain railway, up which
passengers are drawn in small cars by a stationary engine. Upon the
summit a small hotel was built in 1821, whose site is now occupied by
the Prospect House. 18-20,000 persons ascend the mt. every season.
The carriage road is ^ M. long, and the railway, in its COO ft. of incline,
vises 365 ft. perpendicular. Betwe",n the building of tlie railway in 1854
and its remodelling in 186(3, 125,000 persons ascended on it. The summit
is 1,120 ft. above the sea, and 830 ft. above the river, and is part of a
greenstone vidge tunning from West Rock at New Haven to Belchertown.
The invincible trap-rock of the mount resisted the glaciers during their
long grinding attacks, but the great lake which, according to Indian tra-
dition, filled the basin to the N,, at last broke away between Nonotuck
and Hoi yoke,, and became a river. Western Mass. is underlaid with
gneiss, but the Conn. Valley has r. belt of coarse, new red sandatoue
10 - 16 M. wide, of the Permian and Triassic systems.

From this peak is " the richest * * view in New England, if not in the
U. S." It has often been called, by distinguished visitors, the finest view
in America. . .

NEW YORK TO QUEBEC. Route 2^ ICl

') is to be (lo-
;he year 1906.
0. It was 78
lisused since

ence to New

groves of
'.r-(Jure and
IS, billiards,
This site
isetts Eton,
, Coggowell,
ig. On the

$300,000),
phabet. It

W. of the
lings which

and have 4
y Earle.

factories, the
r Ki'eat quad-
irly.

Northampton
lands a wider

from North-
it the usual
ly, up which
Upon the
occupied by
very season.
t. of incline,
way in 1854
The summit
is part of a
Bel chert own.
during their
Indian tra-
in Nonotuck
derlaid witlr
!d sandstone

f not in the
le finest view

On the S. are seen numerous villages in the valley, Spria^jfieid, the gracoful
sinuosities of the broad river, the distant spires of Hartford (40 M.). the Blue and
tiie Lyme Mts., and East and West Rocks at New Haven (70 M.). ti- W., beyond
Mt. Tom, are glimpses of the valley of WestflcKl lliver. and on the W. i'om-
eroy's Mt. and the high hills of Hampshire and Central Berkshire are seen. N.
W are 8,000 acres of ganleu-like n:eadow3, witl* Nortiiampton directly over them,
and above the village, 4'J M. away, is Greyiock. " in ilim and misty grandeur."
Fa.thcr to the r. the hills of Franklin County arc st^cn, ('.(Muinated by Mts. Toby
and Sugar Loaf, while in the far N. the blue jieaks of the Green Mts. overlook all.
The great lacustrine basiu of the Conn., 20 M. by 15, is nearer, in the N., with fair
Hadley on its " plaided meadows," in a bend of the river, and Hattield just across
the river and intervales, under the shadow of Mt. Warner (to the r.). .M. N. K.
is Amherst with its colleges, and beyond, "far in the N. E., rises in insulated
grandeur the cloud-capped Monadnock " (uO M). In the E. Mt. Wachusett (35 M.
away) rises above the crowd of hills which till the E. and S. E. 38 towns are
seen from this lofty peak, with parti of 4 States.

There are good views from other i)eaks of the Ilolyoke Range (whicli is 9 M.
long), and at its W. end are lofty clitts of columnar basalt which have been named
the Titan's Piers.

In 104-2 Capt. Holyoke. on the 1. bank, and Rowland Thomas on the r. bank, led
exploring parties up the Conn, valley. Tiiey arc s-iul to have met near this
mount, and lo have talked across the river at Rock Ferry, when Holyoke gave his
name to the mount near him, and Thomas gave his name to the one on his side of
the river. The people have not assented to the self-asserting spirit shown in this
•tradition, for Mt. Holyoke is usually associated with the learned classical scholar
of that name who was President »>f Harvard College, 1737 -U'.', while the other
name has been cliitped into -Mt. Tom, and its ancient Indian name, " Nonotuck,"
is now gaining ground in tlie countryside.

Old Hadley is 3 M, N. E. of Northampton, over the river, and lies on
the E. of a ricli and level intervale, containing 2 - 3,000 acres, which is an-
nually overflowed by the river. The Connecticut here makes a curve of
7 M. to accomplish 1 M. of direct course, and the neck of the peninsula is
crossed by the street of Hadley . West Street was laid out before the
settlement as 1 M. long and 20 rods wide, but by the encroachments of
the river and the inhabitants, it has been reduced to a length of 300 rods
and a width of about IG rods. This wide, park-iike * street is adorned
with about 900 ancient elm-trees, 4 lines of v/liich stretch from river to
river, and is called " the handsomest street by nature in New England."
Middle and Ea.st Sts. are also wide and shaded avenues, rui'.ning N,
and S. On the meadows near this charming rural village great quantities
of broom-corn are raised, which, with much of the same material im-
ported from the West, is made into broom.s and brushes. This industry
was commenced in 1790, and now amounts to over $200,000 a year.

In 1650, fierce theological discussions were carried on at Hartford, and many of
its wealthier families left the place in search of peace and good-will, and settled
on the Indian domain of Norwottock, whi(!h they named in honor of Hadleigh, in
Sutfolk, England. In 1(504 (Joffe and Whalley, two generals of the Army of
Parliament, and judges of the cour^ which put King Charles I. to death, came here
and lived for 15 years concealed in the pastor's house. They had been forced to
fly for their lives after the Restoration, and after 3J years of hiding about New
Haven they came to Hadley. Their pres'^nce here was only known of by three
citizens. On Sept. 1, 1075, while the people were assembled in the church, in
fasting and prayer, the town was attacked by swarms of Indians. After a sharp
light, the English gave way, when Gen. Goffe, "an ancient man with hoary locks,
of a most venerable and dignified aspect," appeared suddenly, commanded and

1G2 liouu

■-} /

NEW VOllK TO QUEBEC.

led a fresh attack by the people, ami scattered the disjiiayed Indians in all direc-
tions. He then disappeared to his hiiliny-place, and the astonished vilhigers, for
nianj years, attributed their dcliveran<>(' 1o the visit of a militant angel. Gen.
Wlialley diofl iicre, and was buried, in \(u'.\ and Cioffe died a few years later.

In 1076 700 Indians attacked the town just after the Falls Fight, but after a
lon>j;and bilter struggle they were repelled with sievcre losses.

F. U. Huntington. Kitiscojiai Bisho]) of Contrn' Now York, was a native of this
village. Joseph Hooker, " Fighting . Too," was born at Hadley in 1815. He was
distinguished at the battles of Monterey and Chapultepec, in the Mexican War,
and bore high commands during the Seee.s.sion "War. At Antietani, he commanded
the r. of the army, and afterwards, at the head of the Army of the Potomac, he
was defeated in a h)ng and terrible battle at Ciianrfdlorsvillc, Va., losing 16,000
men. In 1863-4 he did brilliant service in the battles resultant on the reoccu-
jiation of Georgia and Alabama by the National armies.

Hatfield (Ilaljield Ifousc) is al)out 5 M. from Northampton. It is a
small and beautiful village 1^ M. N. of Old Hadloy, and i.s noted for its
early battles. In 1675 it was attacked liy 800 Indian.s, but the veteran
companies of Moseley and Pike fouglit desperately amid the burning
houses, and held the town till succor came, sutfering heavy losses. In
May, 1676, 600 Indiaii 5 attacked the place, and destroyed many houses,
nnd in 1677 it was taken by a flotilla, wliose men carried the riverward
palisades, and killed and captured 24 persons.

Easthampton (see Route 15) is 4 M. S. W. of Northampton. Amherst (see
Route 12) is 7 M. N. E., on the road which crosses the river on a bridge 1,080 ft.
long, and passes through Old Hadley.

After leaving Northampton, the Conn. River Railroad passes near the
Great Bend of the Conn, in siglit of Old Hadley (to the r. ), then diverges
from the river, ■'/hich is not seen again for 30 M. Station, Hatfield, be-
yond which the track runs near the base-line of the State Trigonometrical
Survey (39,009.73 ft. long), which is laid along the plains of Hatfield and
Whately (on the r.). Stations, X. Hatfield and Whatcbj (^Vhately
House), whose village is seen in the W. Beyond the village is the far-
viewing Mt. Estlier, and tlie picturesque Whately Glen, witli its cascades.

The train passes Sugar Loaf Mt. and stops at S. Deerfield (small hotel).
A road leads from the village to the Mountain House, on the summit of
the conical S. peak of Sugar Loaf Mt., which rise3 sheer from the
meadows and near the river. From this point is visible the broad, rich
valley, with its villages of Amherst, Hadley, Hatfield, Northampton, and
several others, with Holyoke seen beyond the Titanic gateway between
Nonotuck and Mt. Holyoke. Close at hand on the E. is Sunderland,
under the shadow of Mt. Toby.

The rich and peaceful valley seen from Sugar Loaf was the scene of the bloodiest
tragedies of King Philip's ami the liter Indian wars. King Philip directed the
movements of tlic western Indians fromliis head-quarters on this peak, — so runs
traditio.i. Table Rock is a beetling clitt'on the E. side, beneath wluch is a seat
cut in the rock, called King Philip's Chair (see Bristol, R. I.). A sharp skirmish
took place just S. of the Mt., in August, 1675, when 26 Indians and 10 colonists
were killed.

In the Is. part of S. Deerfield village is a monument on the Blooihi Brook hattle-
fidd. tiept. 18, 167^, Capt. Lathrop and 84 men were convoying a train of grain-

i ill all direc-
villfigera, for
angel. Gen.

IS later.

, but after a

native of thi.s
815. He was
Mexican War,
e comnianrled
Potomac, he
losing 16,000
1 the reot'cu-

on. It is a
oted for its

the veteran
the burning

losses. In
any houses,
le riverward

Amherst (see
idge 1,080 ft.

5es near the
lien diverges
Hatfield, be-
^ononietrical
Hatfield and
y (AVliately
e is the far-
its cascades,
small hotel),
summit of
er from the
! broad, rich
ampton, and
vay ])etween
Sunderland,

the bloodiest

directed the

a,k, — so runs

ich is a seat

larp skiiinisli

10 colonists

/ Brook huttk-
rain of graiu-

NEW YORK TO QUEBE'". Route 24. 1G3

w.igons from ruhied Dcerfleld to Hadley, and as they passed over n small Irrook,
tliey stopped to rest and pick the wild grapes win, h hung in clusters over its
watt'ii. While thus disbanded, they were suddenly attacked by 7<I0 Indian
warriors. Lathrop ordered his men to take refuge behind the trees and fire from
their slielter, but they were speedily enveloped by the enemy, and but 7 men es-
cajied the general massacre, whicli includetl the teamsters and reajjcrs and 70
soldiers. Oapt. Moseley, "an old Jamaica buccaneer," manlied rapidly to the
Sf ind of the volleys, and charged and recliarged in .solid rompany front through
the lieathen swarms. Major Treat and 100 Moheganaiid Peipiot Indians (allies of
tlie Ihiglish) also marched up from iladley, and 9(3 of the hostile warriors were
kilk'd on the field.

A rude monument was soon erected here, and in lS3r) the people of 5 towns as-
sembled and (ledicated a fine marble monument, with an address by Edward
Everett.

" In the country, districts that nestle in the dells .seem to have been there for
ten centuries at least ; and it gives one a shock to light on such a i>lace as Bloody
Brook, and to be told that only 100 years ago Capt. Lathrop was slain here by
Bed Indians, with 80 youth, 'the flower of Essex County,' as the old Puritan
histories say." (.Sir Charles Dilke.)

About 5 M. N. passing (on the r. ) the monument, and tlien the long
ridge of Deertield Mt., the line approaches the Deerfield River, and stops
at Old Deerileld (Pocomtnck hDuse, good). Tliis place was settled by
men of Dedliam in 1670, on tlie Indian doniain of Pocomtuck, and was
named from the abundance of deer found in its forests.

Sept. 1, 1675, the village was attacked and burnt, and then abandoned. It was
a'ter harvesting its deserted fields that sucli di.siuster befell at Bloody Brook, " n
choice company of young men, tlie very flower of Essex County, none of whome
were ashameil to speak with the enemy in the gate." In 1G1»7 a fresh attack was
made, but it was rei)ulsed by tlie peojjle, headed by their i)astor. Rev. John Wil-
liams. Feb. 29, 1704, while the watch was sleeping, and the snow had drifted
over the jialisades, 2 liours lu^t'ore iliylight, the place was attiicked by Major de
Rouville, with 'MO French and Indians. Tlie walls were easily jiassed, and a ter-
rible scene of slaugliter, jiiliage, and conflagration ensued, which lasted for three
hours. But one house escaped, and it-' lonpholes were guarded by 7 bold colo-
nists, whose wives were casting Vmllets for their guns. 47 English were killed,
and 180 taken prisonera. A few escai)ed, and alarmed the lower towns, and Hat-
field .sent a force in pursuit, which overtook and was defeated by De Rouville on
the same day. Mrs. Williams was murdered in the Leydcii tJoi-ge, and i>ther
weakly captives soon shared her late. On the first Sunday of their march north.
Rev. John Williams preached from the text, "My virgins and my young men
are gone into captivity." Arrived in Canada, the juisoners were forced to attend
Roman Catholic services, and Mr. Williams was ollVred his freedom, a pension,
and his children, if he would join that church. He sternly refused, but 2S of hi.s
peoj)]e chose to remain in Canada, and joined the Roman Church, " whence kindre<l
blood now rattles bad Fremdi in Ca;iaila or sputters Indian in tlie N. and N. W."
The captives were kindly treated by the Fi^-nch, and 60 of them were redeemed
in 1706. The i)astor's little daughter, Eunice (7 years old), who was kept by the
Indians, afterwards marrie.l an Indian and became a Catholic, and often in after
ye;;rs made visits to DccrlicM with her tribe. Not one iota of regard for the cus-
toms of civilized life, or for the tenets of the Puritan Church, remained in her
heart. Rev. Eleazer Williams, the jiretended Dauphin of France, and Bourbon
Prince Royal, a'oout whom (a <iuiet missionary among the Indian.s) tho newspapers
made such a great sfiiisation, was Eunice's grandson.

Tliis laid on Deertield was a crusade, for the Mass. Puritans had captured a ship
which was bearing a bell to the Catholic Church at St. Regis. The bell was hung
in the Puritan meeting-house at Deertield, and was taken thence by the invaders,
under the cai'e of their chaplain. It was can-ied to the St. Regis Church (near
Potsdam, iI^N. New York), where it has sounded matins and vespers for nearly
170 yeare. The same De Rouville attacked Deerfield again in 1710, but was hand-
somely repulsed.

1 ;

'. \

w •

1C4 Runic 21 NEW YORK TO QUEBEC.

Among the natives of this town were Richard Hildreth, the gifted liistorian of
the U. H. ; Edward Hit(;heofk, the geologist, and President of Amherst College ;
John Williams, D. U,, i)resent Episcopal Bishop of Conn.; and Gen. Rufus
Suxton.

Ju.st beyond Deerfield, the railroad reaches the Deerfidd River, which
it crosses on a bridge 750 ft. long, and 90 ft. above the water. This
bridge was burnt during the draft riots (in Greenfield) in 1864, and was
rebuilt in six weeks.

Station, Greenfield (see Route 25). From this place the line runs N.
E. to Bcrnordston, a small village under the shadow of West Mt. This
cold and lofty town was granted in 1736 to the veterans of the Falls
Fight. A few min. after passing Bernardston the train comes in sight of
the Conn. River, and reaches the station-house at S. Vernon, the terminus
of the Conn. River Line,

The train now passes on the rails of tlie Vermont Central R. R. Sta-
tions, S. Vernun, Vernon, and Brattleboro, see Route 12. Beyond
Brattleboro are the stations, Dummerston, Putney, E. Putney, and West-
miyister, which pertain to small hill-villages. In Putney are long strata
of roofing-slate ; and the rare mineral called fluor spar (of a rich emerald
green) is found in tlie E. of the town. In 1755 a strong timber fort was
built on the Great Meadows in Putney, which protected the settlement
until the conquest of Canada rendered it unnecessary. All the inhabitants
lived in the fort in small houses.

At Westminster occurred a sharp skirmish in the course of " the contest be-
tween Puritan and Patroon " (as the struggle of Vermont against the royal edict
which gave her to New York has been termed). The royal New York judges were
to hold court here, but the citizens cajitured the Conrt-House, March 13, 1775,
and were only dislodged by an attack at midnight. Several Vermonters were
wounded, two of them mortally, and one of these l..'s inscribed on his tomb-
stone : —

•• nere William French his body lies.
For Murder his blood for vcriBeancc cries,
King Gcorpe the Third his Tory crew
Tha with u bawl his head shot threw."

The oldest church in Vermont is in this village (1 M. S. of the station). It was
built in 1770, and has been secularized. Across the river from Westminster is the
old frontier town of Walpule (see Route 26).

Station, Bellows Falls (* Island House). Tliis was a favorite Indian
resort because of the great numbers of salmon and shad near the rapids.
8 rods S. of the old bridge, on the W, bank, Schoolcraft found Indian
hieroglyphs on the rocks, which he thinks are the records of some ancient
battle. The village was named for Col. Bellows, the founder of Walpole,
and great-grandfather of Dr. H. W. Bellows. The river falls 42 ft.
within ^ M. near the village, and forms white and impetuous rapids,
dashing between and among the rocks which strew the river-bed. In
low water the current is compressed into a channel of 16 ft. in width,
between two large rocks. A canal J M. long has been built around the

NEW YOKK TO QUEBEC. Route 24. 105

1 1 liisturiiin of
herst College ;
1 Gen. Rufus

River, which
water. This
864, and was

line runs N.

St Mt. This

of the Falls

es in sight of

the terminus

R. R. Sta-
12. Beyond
ey, and West-
e long strata
rich emerald
iber fort was
lie settlement
le inhabitants

the contest be-
the royal edict
)rk judges were
tfarch 13, 1775.
srmoiiters were
1 on his tonib-

^tion). It was
stminster is the

ivorite Indian
,r the rapids,
found Indian

some ancient
r of Walpole,
■ falls 42 ft.
tuous rapids,
*iver-l)ed. In

ft. in width,
ilt around the

falls, aud on the water-power thus afforded, several factories arc located.
Opposite the falls is Mt. Kilbnrn, a wooded eminence which gives a pretty
view of the river and village. The old name of this hill was Fall Idt.,
but President Hitchcock and a large delegation of students from Amherst
and Middlcbury Colleges met here in 185(5, and named it Mt, Kilbuni, in
honor of a brave frontiersi.ian. The Fall Mt. House is situated at tho
foot of this eminence.

Pleasant cxnirsions are made by the summer visitors here, to Warren's Podd,
in Alstead, N. II. ; to tlie Ahcna/iuis Mineral Spring.'^ ; and to IVrMiiiinder.

From Bellows Falls tiie Cheshire P. R. runs S. E. to FitdilmrK' and Boston (114
M.), and the Rutland and Burlinytou R. R. goes to Burlington (143 M. bco
Route JC).

Tlie train crosses the Conn. River into the State of N<nv Hampshire,

and runs through tlie long river-town of Charlestowti, with 3 pleasant

villages aud 3 inns.

This town was settled under the authority and by the people of Massaehuseits.
in 1740, and was nanieil Number Four. A garrisoned fort was located here, and
between 174(> and 1760 the enemy eommitted many depredations in the vicinity.
The fort was foniially besieged ill August, 1740, and after a suecessful defence, tlio
garrison and eolnnisfs abandnned the place. In 1747, Capt. Stevens reoceupied it
with :30 men, under orders from the Mass. government. He was soon attacked by
Debeline, a skilful ])artisan, with 400 Freneh and Indians, wlio besieged tlie Fort for
three days, e.xliaustiiig every ai)i)lianee of craft and tactics. Debeline threatened
■o nia.ssaere the garrison unless they surrendered, but they sent back a deliant
answer, and a long and desperate attack followed. Tlie lieroic handful of i>rt)-
vinoiala nuiltiplied themselves and rejjelled the attacks on every side, luitil tho
enemy withdrew and retreated to Canada. Capt. Stevens was highly honored by
the people, and Conunodore Sir Charles Knowlcs, whose ship then lay at Boston,
sent him an elegant sword. Wlien the tract was resettled, it was called Ciiarles-
town, in honor of Sir Charles. During the later French wars this was the prin-
cipal statioTi on the militaiy road betwe(Mi the New England coast and Tieouderoga
and Montreal. Tlie remains of the Fort were plainly i)erceptible iu ISIO.

Charlestown village is situated between two broad, rich meadows, and
has some neat buildmgs, on a long, wide, well-shaded .street. " Its se-
cluded loveliness is calculated to awaken the adnuration of the traveller."
Across the river is the town of Springfield (iSjjrinff field House), v,-iih
some romantic scenery on the Black River, whicli falls 110 ft. in GOO It.,
with one sheer fall of 50 ft. The deep, narrow ravines and cafions cut by
this river in the slate rocks are very picturesque.

Station, Clareinont Junction, soon after leaving winch the line crosses
Sugar River by a bridge 600 ft. long and 105 ft. above the water. Tlio
rich intervales of the Conn, are now crossed, with Ascutney Mt. on the
1., and the train passes over the river on a bridge whose predecessor was
carried away by ice in 1866. Station, irmcifsor (Windsor House), a pretty
village on liighlaTids over the river and near the foot of Ascutney. It is
a flourishing town, with some manufactures and a large country trade.
It lias 4 churches, a bank, 2 weekly papers, a fine Government building
used for U. S. Courts and Post Office, and the Vermont State Prison
(which usually has 70 - 90 prisoners). At Windsor, during a fearful

•(

106 Route 24. NEW YORK TO QUEBEC.

thuiider-stonn, and with the appalling news of the fall of Fort Ticondc-
roga ringing in their ears, the dei)uti(!s of the Vermont towns adoi)ted tlio
constitution of the State, July 2, 1777.

Aflcutney Mt. lies 8. E. of tlio village. A road has been eonstrurted to tlie
suinniit (o M.), and a small house has Iteeii built there for a shelter. Horses and
guide.s from tin' Windsor IIoiis(>. A lino view is obtained from this isolated
neak, whicli is .';,;i20 It. above tlie .sea. In the W. and N. \V. are Shrewsbury nn<l
Killington l'eal<s, n(;ar Rutland, while the Green Mt. chain runs off to the N. in
a lon;^ line of roinided summits. Tlu! hill towns of Wiudhani Co. are seen in the
N., and the (Jdmh. River and valley close at hand in tiie K. stret(di away to the
N. and S. tln-ou^di a ideas.int farmin_^' country. Croydon, Snnajjeo, and Kearsarge,
Mts. arc seen in the E., the latter bein.i,' dindy outlined on the horizon. The In-
dian name Asciitney means "Three Ihothers," and is siipitoscd to refer to three
8inguh:r valleys which run down the W. slope of the Mt. There are marks of
volcanic action here, and the early settlers ol'ten saw a lurid light hanging over
the siunmit on winter ni;^dits. Daily stages rim to Cornish and I'hiinfield, N. H. ;
also to W. Windsor, Reading (I'J M.), jnul I'roctorsville (2-' M.).

Salmon 1'. Chase was born ,d, Cornish in 18"8. His father was a prominent
Portland lawyia- ; his uncle, I' lley Chase, was I'. H. .Senator, 181:5-17, aiid 1825-
31 ; and his un<le, Philande; i ha.se, was Prot.-Epis. Bishop of Olno, 1819-;n,
and of Illinois in I8;j,'j-.'J2. (These three, togetlier with their brothers, Barucli
and Ileber Cha.se, were born at Cornish, and graduate<l from Dartmouth Colle;:'e.)
He settled in Ohio about 18;!0 in the jiractiee of law, became a leader in the anti-
slavery movement, and was U. H. .Senator, 1 S!40 - .').5, and Governor of Ohio, 1855 - 59.
In 18G1 ho became .Secretary of the U. S. 1 'e.isury, antl rendered great service to
the Union by his skilful linancial jtolicy ci ring the Rebellion. He resigned in
18G4, and late in the same year was made <. tiiei Juslice of the United States. On
May 7, 1873, Mr. Cliase died in Nc v.- York City.

Stations beyond Windsor, JIartland, N. Ilartland, and White River
function (sec Route 29).

Just after leaving the Junction, the train cro.sses Wliite River, and
passes to Xorwich, where a large military school called the Norwich
University was establislied from lS3i to 18GG, when its buildings were
burnt and the school was removed to Northfield. The village {Union
House) is about 1 M. W. of the station. Stages from Norwich station
run to Hanover, about j M. S. E., across the Connecticut River. Han-
over (Dartmouth House) is the seat of Dartmouth College, which ranks
among the first of American educational institutions.

This eollege was founded here in 1770 by Rev. Eleazer Wheeloek, as a school
for missionaries to the Indians, and for Christian Indians, and had at Hvst 24
students, donuciled in huts built of green logs, situated in the midst of a vast
wilderness. 44,000 acres of land were granted to it by the State, which also raised
a building l.")0 by 50 ft. for its use, while money was sent to its aiil by Engli.sh
patrons. Tlie project of educating tlie Indians was rendered subordinate after a
careful trial, seA-i'ral Ma;)lers of Arts having retui'ned to savage life. The College
(named for the Earl of Dartmouth, I'resident of its board of trustees) liad 150
students in the year 1700. In 1871 it had 27 instructors and .S82 students. Between
1771 and 18G7 it graduated ;3, 550 men. .'i of whom have been U. S. Cabinet Ministers ;
15 have been U. S. Senators, and 01 Representatives ; ;51 Judges of the U. S. and
State .Supreme Couils ; 15 Governors ; 4 Ambassatlors ; 25 I'resideuts of Colleges ;
104 I'rofessors ; and 800 Clergymen. The degree of LL. I), has been conferred on
24 alumni, and that of D. D. on lUG. "Not to enlarge, with few excei)tions, her
(Dartmouth's) iulluence in religion has been emphatically eon!;;ervative, and her
sympathies in a national ])oint of view eminently jjatriotick. She has been the
nursery of sound divines, devoted missionaries, itrofound jurists, skilful pliy.sician8,
brilliant statesmen, accomplished scholars, classical and learned v.ritcrs. Such
are the worthies she has given to the Union, and m\ thcrsc rest her (;laims to a
nation's gratitude." (Chapman.)

■^ort Ticonde-
adopted the

trwrted to tlie
*. Horses and
n tliis isolated
luTwsbury and
fr to the N. in
ire seen in tlie
ell away to the
nn<l Kearsargf!
izon. Tlic In-
I) refer to three
are marks of
; hanging over
.infield, N. H. ;

3 a prominent
-17, and 1825-
Ohio, 18i9-;n,
others, liariich
iioulh Ct)lle;:'e.)
er in tiie anti-
Ohio, 1855-59.
reat serviee to
rle resigned in
ed States. On

White Mirer

e River, and
tlie Norwich
lildings were
llage ( Union
•wich station
liver. Han-
wliich ranks

, as a school

ad at Hi'st 24

1st of a vast

ich also raised

id by Lnglish

linate after a

The College
(■es) had liJO
its. Between
et Ministers ;
the U. S. and
of Colleges ;
conferred on
:eei)tions, her
tive, and her
has been the
ulphysieians,
liters. Hnch

elaiius t.' u

NEW YORK TO Ql'EBEC. IluUe ^l 1(17

Among the most distinguished ahmini of Partmonth were Jdhn Wheeloek, Its
second President. 177'.> - isij ; Asa Uiirton ; rresid«Mit Torter, of Andover Senii-
nuy , Ileinan .\lli;n ; Gen. Kii'li y. tlic hero of .N'lagani and (.'hiiipewa ; Alvan
Ilv Ic, 1). F>., 1. 1.. (>. ; ,\mn,s Kciidall ; .Senator Levi Woodbury; Daniel Poor, the
(,'nylon missionary ; .Judge .Joel l'.\rkrr ; J. H. Felt, the annali~;t ; Jl. Gieenleaf, the
antiunetician ; T. C. Lphani, D. 1)., the metaphysician; .\lphens Crosby, the
lihild V,'ist ; Nathm I/>rd, 1). D.. the (ith President; and Asa I>. Smith, I). 1).,'
the 7th and present President ot Dartnioiitii ; ,1. H. Noyes, the fomiiicr of the
Oneida Coiiinmnily ; ('. K. Potter, flie author ; .lolin l,ord, tiie historical essayist ;
\\. !). Kimball, the anthor ; Oeii. Slie[iley ; (i. P. Maisli, llic philologist and diplo-
miitist; IJishops Chase and Oorr : (ieorge Tickiior, (he historian of .Sitaiiish
Iilcr.itiire ; Senator liiilns Ciioale, the lawyer and orator; Salmon I*. Chase, the
statesman and .jurist ; and Danitd Web.^ter.

'Die f.imons Dartmouth College case was oiu'ned early in the i>resent eentnry by
the State of N. IJ. attempting to infringe on the vested rights of the College.
After much litigation, the case was decided by the .Stati" Sui)renie ('oiut against
the College. It was then carried by apjie.il to tiie Snineme Court of the United
States, where, after long arguments by the leailing lawyers of Amerii-a, -— Danitd
Webster flctVndiii:'; Dartmouth, -the St.ate .juil;,'iiieiit was reversed, and the College
was restored to its ancient privileges and independence.

The college fronts on a fine canipns, in the centre of TIanovor village,
and on an upland plain near the Conn. River. Dartmonth Hall i.s the
long central 1)1 iding (in which is tho chapel), while in line with it are
Weutworth and Thornton Halls. In front of the line is Reed Hall, con-
taining the college library of abont 40,000 volnmes (diflicnlt of access).
These btiildings are old and idain, contrasting with Culver Hall, a hand-
some new structure E. of the line, in which there arc fine lectnrc-roora.s, a
.small natural history collection, and the State mu.seum of minerals.
Bissel Hall is a new gymnasium, fronting on the campus. N. of the
college is the Chandler Scientific School, while the Medical (College and
the observatory are in the vicinity. An Alumni Hall is to be erected.
The scenery about this (iniet academic village is fine, embracing tall hills
to the E. and S., and upland plains along the Conn. River.

After leaving Norwich, the train crcs-ses the Ompompanoosuc River, and
stops at Pomjumonsuc, whence largo quantities of copperas are shipi)ed
away, to be made into sulphuric acid. The mines are at Copperas Hill,
10 M. N. \V., and the copperas is separated from other clenr-^ts by a
long and difficult process, and prcciintated in green crystals, nearly 400
tons a year are converted into vitriol in chemical works near Boston,
while a great quantity of the copperas is used as a mordant in dye-
factories.

Distant views of Moosilanke and Bald Mts. are obtained as the train

approaches Thetford (two small inns). Thetford village is 1 M. W. of

tlie station, and on the E. is the large farming towni of Lyme, N. H., to

which stages run 4 times daily (Perkins House).

Daily stages run X. W. to W. Fairlci (9 M.) and Vershire (15 M.) with its ex-
tensive copper-mines, also to Chehea, the shire-town. Vershire had 1,054 inhabi-
tants in 18G0, ol whom 113 men joined the Union army. Nearly 11 jier cent of
her population was at the front,

Station N. Thetford, whence much copper ore from Corinth is sent to

i • ;

1 ■;

.; ■'

. '.1

? 1

[J f:

168 Route 24. NEW YOIIK TO QIEIJFX'.

Baltimore ("by water from Portsmouth) and smelted. Station, FairUe
and Orfordy the foniur being a hilly town abounding in lakes, one of
which is nearly .3 M. long. Tickerel are found in these waters. Just
across the river from Fnirleo is the N. Tl. town of ij-rfiml (stage to Orford
Hotel), with a l)eautifnlly located village which has become a favorite
Hummer-home for lovers of tnunniillity aiid rural life. (Juht Mt. and Mt.
Sandaji are near the centre of the town, an<l there are several large ponds.
Cube Mt., in tlu; W., is 2,273 ft. high, and lias a chain of 5 lakes on its W,
side. Cxi he Falls ii\\([ the i)eri)endicular cliffs of gray gi'anite on Saw-
yer's Mt. are worthy of notice.

Station, Bradford (Trotter House), a i)rosperous manufacturing village
on Wait's River. In the N, W. is Wright's iMt., where one Wright, who
claimed to be a |>roj)]iet, had a hermitage in a dismal rocky cleft, now
called the Devil's Den. The town has a scientific association, an academy,
a weekly newspaper, and a savings-bank.

Stages nni to Coriiifh, Tnjisluim (13 M. N. W.), Orange (17 M.), and Montpelier
(30 M.) ; also to Wiisliiiigton nnd B.irre, and to the N. H. farming town of Pier-
mont, ueyond the Conn, liiver.

Stations, S. Newhui-y and Newbury (the Spring Hotel, closed in 1869-72,
will probably be reopened in 1873; iVewbury Jlou^e). This beautiful
village stands on a terrace above tlie rich Ox Bow intervales, where a great
bend of the river nearly insulates a tract of fertile alluvial meadow-land.
Mt. PvlasJci is near Newbury, and commands a nol)le view, embracing
thefruitfid and carpet-like Ox Bow meadows, the village of Haverldll, and
the winding river, with Moosilauke in the S. E,, .and the Peinigewasset
and Franconia Mts. in the E. J M. from tlie Hotel are the Newbury
Sulphur Springs (bath-houses, &c. ), in a little glen near the verge of the
intervale, and a charming twilight walk is that along the borders of these
level meadows, with the sombre mountains beyond.

This town was founded about 1764 by Cien. Bailey, of Newbury, Mass. During
the Revolution a detacilinient of British soldiers came here to t^ike Bailey, but a
friend went over to the tield whero he was ploughing and dropped in the furrow a
note saying, "The Philistines be upon thee, Samson !" On returning down the
long furrow Bailey saw the note, took the hint, and fled to securer regions. The
meadow." of Coos about Newbury were the home of a large tribe of Indians, who
tilled the adjacent lands, caught salnu)n and trout in the rivt'i-s, and chased wild
game through the lut.'untains. These pleasant lands were abandoned iu terror
after Lovewell's battle in Petiuawket.

The beautiful scenery along the Passumpsic line changes to grandeur a.s

the train runs N. Station, Wells River {Coosuck House), where the

Boston, Concord, and Montreal and White Mts. R. R, touches this line on

its W. angle (20 M. to Littleton. See Poute 80).

The Montpelier and Wells River R. R. will probably be completed from this
point to the capital of the State (about 25 M. N. of W.) in the summer of 1873.
Stages now run to Ryegate, 5 M. N. W. (Blue Mountain House), a Presbj-terian
town settled in 1774 by a colony of farmers from the Scottish shires of Renfrew
and Lanark. Blue Mt. is a high granite ridge in the N. W. The stage-road fol-

»[!

NEW YOKK TO QUEBEC. JiouU 24. 169

n, Fairlee
es, one of
l-ers. Just
! to Orford
a favoiite
t.ax\(\ Mt.
irgc ])on»ls.
s on its W.
e on 8aw-

•inj,' villug«5
right, who
cleft, now
1 academy,

Montpelier
wn of Picr-

n 1869-72,
I beautiful
ere a great
adow-laiul.
end (racing
verhill, and
tnigewa.s.set
J Newbury
3rge of the
irs of these

iss. During
lailey, but a
the turrow a
g down the
igions. The
miians, who
chased wild
3d iu terror

grandeur as
where the
;lds line on

[I from this
ler of 187a.
'resbj'terian
of Renfrew
ge-road fol-

h)Wfl up Wells River to droton (^'iiiuU iun). In the N. W. j)art of On)t<^>n Ih Long
Poti'l, 4 M. long and 1 M. wiUe, wiili n liotcl (thtf I-ikt House) ou its 8. shore,
which affords good facilities for bontiuK and fiHhing. 'llii.s pond is 1,1U0 ft. above
the sea, and near it is the pretty Little Pond, 1 M. by ^ M.

Beyond Wells Iliver, the train stops at Mclndoc's Falls, with largo
lundter-mills, and Bnniet, a Scotch Presbyterian town, settled in 1775.
Stages nm to Pcacham. Soon after leaving Barnet, the line passes near
the mouth of the l^assumpaic Rlri'r, where Rogers' Rangers, returning
from their raid on the St. Francis Indians, failed to find an exi)ecte(l depot
of provisions. Many of the famishing men died there, while others made
a ranidbal feast on the flesh of a slain Indian. In his dis{\strous retreat
from St. Francis to C'harlestown, Rogers lost nearly half of his command,
and it is said that 30 of his men died in 18 hours here on the Pa.ssumi)sic
meadows.

Just beyond Baniet (famed for its butter) begin th-i 15-Mile Falls on
the Conn, River. Stations, McLerans and J'ussuinpsic, witli falls on the
Passumpsic River, wldch here rolls between black, rocky banks. Station,
8t. Johnsbnry (•SV. John.fhitry Ifoitue, on the hill ; Avenue House, near
the station), a busy town of nearly 5,000 inhabitants, with many neat
villas and large manufactories. It was settled in 178t>, and named in
honor of St. John de t'rcvecceur, French f'onsid at New York, and a bene-
factor of Vennnnt. The Court House of Caledonia County is a fine
building, on the hill, directly in front of which is a * Soldiers' Monument,
consisting of a statue of America (by Mead), on a pedestal inscribed with
the names of 6 officers and 74 men from this town, who died in the Seces-
sion War. Near tlu; monument is the Af/wmruui, with 1>,U()0 volumes in
a good library building. There is also a reading-room with papers and
magazines, and an art-gallery is i)rojected. The St. Johnsbnry Academy
is a large and well-attended school, and the other schools of the village
occupy neat buildings. There are several churches here, the best of which
is the Catholic Church of Our Lady of Victories. The village has also 2
banks and 2 weekly newspapers.

There are manufactures of mowing and threshing machines and other things,
but the reason of being for St. .Johnslmry is tlie extensive scale factory of E. & T.
Fairbanl<s & Co. The works of tliis coiiipany are in a glen on Sleeper's River,
and occui)y 10 acres of ground. .O-WO men are employed and 300 varieties of
scales are made, from tlie most delicate letter-scales to tlio.so huge machines which
weigh loaded cars and ciiiial boats (jOO tuns capacity). In 18:U), during the excite-
ment about hemp culture, tiie Fairbanks brothers established a hemp-dressing
factory, and Thaddeus invented the iilationii scale. It was patented in America
and England, and up to 18G1 the company sold 9(),O,08 portable scales, 8,H72 liay
and track scales, and ".•4,712 <<>iinter ami even balances. Since 1801 the sales have
been nnich greater, proportio.ially, and in 18G'.» the yearly sales were stated as
50,000 small scales, and several Imiidred liay and platform scales. 12'; men are
engaged in the Fairbanks' service in otlier towns and cities ; wliile the works con-
sume 18 tons of iron daily, in three cupola furnaces. The scales which have been
made in large quantities for Oriental States are curious, being marked with
Chinese and Turkish numerals, according to their petudiar systems of weights.
The works use yearly 3,000 tons of American iron, 1,000 tons of Scotch iron, and
3,000,000 ft. of lumber.

170 /iuule2l NKW YOIIK TO Ql EUEC.

After leaving St. JoliiiKbury tlie line passes tliroiigli the town of Lyndon,

which has thrt'(? villages, an<l witliin wliosi! Itordcrs are tht; Great Falls of

the I'a.HHumpsic. The soil of the town is rich and valnahle. At Ly}\th)v-

ville. (Walker's Hotel) are the ofliecs and repair-shops of tho Pawsnnipsie

R. 11.

Stnp'H run to ShrlJIrM, 7 M. N. W., and to fVliediKk, M. W. Tho Cal«'.Inni,i
Hprinys (small hotel) are at the latter place.

Station, W. liiirh'., before reacldn;,' whieh a fine view is afforded of the
hold Hurke Mt. Carria^'es may be taken from Trull's Hotel (inferior)
near the station, for * Willoughby Lake. <> M. N. Tlie road ailbrds a
continual view of the two singular mountains between whieh the lake is
situated. The Willoughby Lake House was closed in 1872, but it is
thought that it will open in tlie summer of 1^73. This lake is one of the
most remarkable on tlie continent, being situated between two immense
mountains, whose basiis meet far l)elow its waters. Tluilakeis (5 M. long,
ami in places 2 M. wide, while its depth is very great, and not yet known,
a line of 100 fathoms having run out without finding bottom.

A carriage road along the E. shore, or a boat on the quiet waters, gives
opportunity to see tho beauties of the lake and the grandeur of its sur-
rounding walls. The mountain on the W. shore is called jMt. Hor, and
is somewhat more than 1,500 ft. above the water. The E. shore mountain
is called Mt. Willoughby, IMsgah, or Annananee, in dilferent books and
niap.s. As Mr. Eastman remarks, Annananee seems more api)ropriate,
since that was the name of a brave chief of the St. Francis Indians wlio
once lived here. A vast precipice of granite, 2 M. long and GOO ft. sheer
down, runs along tlie side of Mount Auiuiiuince, while the long sloj»e
below is ro(!ky and steep. The peak is 2,038 ft. above the lake, and
3,800 ft. above the sea. From the hotel to the summit of Annananee
it is a ideasant forest walk of about 2 M. A vast * view over the Conn,
valley is obtained from this point, extending to the Franconia and
White Mts. on the S. E., and it is said that the hotels on Mt. Washing-
ton may be seen with a strong glass. On the N. W. are Owl's Head (in
Canada) and Jay Peak, from which the stately line of the Green Mts. run;;
S., with the peaks of ISIanstield, Camel's Hump, and Killingtou (near Hut-
land) all visible. From the verge of the clitts on the W. Mt. Hor is seen
close at hand, and the observer can look down on and far into the lake,
so transparent are its waters. Geologists think that the chasm between
these mountains was caused by the rush of a northern current during the
drift period, which eat away the decomposed limestone between the two
granite peaks. Very rare plants and flowers are found on Mt. Anna-
nance, especially at the " Flower Garden," at the foot of the cliffs, 600
ft. above the Devil's Den, on +he lakeside road. The Silver Cascade
and the Point of Rocks are found farther out on the same road. Trout

I •

NKW Yoiiiv TO Qri:nEc

riui'tc

■n

171

n of Lyndon,

rent Falls of

At Li/nrfoit-

I Passunijisic

riio Cnlfflnnlii

onled of tlic
itt'l (inft'i-ini)
)a(l affonls u
I the lakp is
72, but it is
is one of the
wo ininionse
is () M. htng,
t yet known,

waters, gives
r of its snr-
Mt. Hor, and
Dre mountain
it books and
appropriate,
Indians wlio

00 ft. sheer
long sh)i)C

le lakd, and
Annanance
\r the Conn,
mconia and
Washing-
I's Head (in
pn Mts. run:;
(near Kut-
\JIor is seen
:o the Like,
Ini between

1 during the
jen the two
|Mt. Anna-

clifTs, 600

Cascade

id. Trout

and muscalonge abound in tlie cool crystal waters of the lako. Kxfursion.s
are made from the hotel to Burh' Aft. (10 M. S.), Jiarfi>n (11 .M. W.),
Plunki't Fitlh (12 M.),and Sevntrk )i\ M. S. E.), famed for its pro<luctiou
of sugar from vast forests of sugar-maples.

Near the flag station at >'. Ilarton the suniniit is passed, and the water-
shed of tlie Si. liawn'UiH" is entered. Jay Peak is seen in the X. W. Sta
tion, llirtiiii (Crystal Lake llousi), a manufacturing village in a town
nanicd for its first proprietor, fJen. Barton. Cri/sfal Lrtfa (by which
the track passes) is a jiretty sheet of water containing about 2 scpiare
miles. About 1.^ M. distant on the E. is the Flume, where a brook Hows
through a natiiral passage in the granite rock, 110 ft. long, 10 ft. wide,
and 20-30 ft. ilecp. Tlie granite walls are smooth and perpemlicular.

In ISIO, th« ppopir (U'tortninml to di-cpcn IlartdM Ilivrr 1>y turning liOn;r r<>n<l
(tlif soiini- <if tlic i.aniiiilli') into it. Tln-y li.nl l».iicly ci'iniiltjlcil a cliaDiii'l frnru
lA->n:^ Pond f<> tlic iMiiid reservoir nf tlif Uutmi Hivcr, wlnii its waters burst
throii;;]! with trt'nicndons foii-n, and .s\v(>i>t dowii to Laki- Mf>iii|>lir»'"MK<';,', wreck-
ing cvrrytliinK in their pMth, an . raiisint; iiiMuense dainai^o. Tho hed of Long
Pond is now dry, and is i ailed Htui iway I'ond.

Stages run from Harton to Mnutju'lirr, 'M M. S. W. tliroii,-li the towns of f //over,
Greennboio', Ilurdwick, A'uudbury, and Valain. Also to Crdftnlnirn and Alhany.

Station, Barton /^rtMr//?j(7(Valley House), which was much resorted to by
smugglers in 1812-1'). Stages run 4 M. W. to Ini.shunjh (Irasburgh
House, large and good), a beautiful rural village, and the shire-town of
Orleans County.

Stations, Coventry and Xev^port (*^remphremagog House, $ 4.00 a day,
300 guests, a large, first-class hotel on the lake sliore ; Newport Hou.se ;
Lake House).

Lake Memphremagog.

The villa,i,'o of Newport is at tho npjter (S.) end «>f this lake, and is 305 M. from
New Y(»rk, L'.'lO M. from JJoston, and 104 M. from Quebec. It is built \i]nn\
PiekiTol Point, ;ind from the edp.' of the village rises Prospc( t Ilill, whence
. line lake views are (;nined, and the Mts. Owl's Head, f^lephantis, Urford,
Jay Pcalx, and Annananoo are seen. Other excursions from Nowoort are to
Clyd.> River Falls (2 M.), Mt. Morrill ("2 M.;, Bear Mt. (7 M.), and Hoi, on Hi)rin;;s
(in Canada, 14 M.). .Steaniei-s leavf> every moiTiing from the (iuay near the great
hotel, for Mago;, n turnin.t,' in the cveninj^.

The ori^^innl Indian name of this lake was Memidiremapt).!,'. or Memi)lo\vbow(|ue
(nanie;i possibly us'jd by dilforent tribes), which is said to mean IJeantiful v/ater.
Some yee in it a resemblance to Loch I.omuml, othi r.s to Lake Oeor;,'e, while still
others call it the Geneva of Canada. The lake is ^0 M. lont,' and '_'- I M. wide,
and two-thirds of it lies in Canada. The watei-s are cold and clear, aboundinj< in
trout and mus(alon;,'e, the sliores are romantically uneven and rock-bound, and
tall, wooded momit.'iins Hse on either hand. The voyaue to Mav'o.i,', at the N. end
of the lake, usinilly takes .S- 4 hours, nearly .'iO M. being traversed. By leavin;j;
Magog on the aftenioun boat (about 4.30 P. M.), a tine sunset ou the raountiiins
may be seen.

The steamer passes out by Indian Point, on the E. , and a distant view
of Stanstead village is soon obtained, between the evergreen-covered
islets known as tlie Twin Sisters (on the E.). Soon after Province Island

172 IioiUe24. NEW YORK TO QUEBEC.

is passed, and the steamer crosses into Coiiuda. The boundary is inark(Ml
by clearings in the forests on either side. Next, on the E., is ihe anuili,
cedar-covered Tea Table Island, and beyond it the Canadian village of
Ct'darrille. Bear ML. loons np <n\ the W. shore, and the scattered farms
of the tov/n of Potion, while Fit(^]»'s Bay stretches fur in shore to the N.
E. The round summit of Owl's Head is mow approached on the VV.
Magoon's Point (on the E.) is near a lurge cavern, where the treasures of
a cathedral are said to have been hidden. The legend is probably de-
ri\ed from the fact that Rogers' Rangers nvtreatcil down the E. shore of
Lake Me'iphremagog, after sacking and destroying the church and village
of the St. Francis Indians. Besides the rich i)late of the church, they
secured two golden candlesticks, and a silver image weighing 10 pounds.
The candlesticks were hidden near the lake (no mention is made of the.
disposal of the other articles), and Were found in 1810, The stennjcr
stops at the ^f<>ln}!Jill. I/oitsr, 12 M. from Newport, in a sequestered posi-
tion at the foot of Owl's Head, and near the best fislung-grounds on the
lake.

The mountain is ascended by a foot-patlj (in 2 hours) wliidi passes tlirnnf;li
forests and I'l-lds, and by nunienus curious rock-forniations. The suniniit is
2,743 ft. abovn tlie lalvc, and commands a Inoad view, including the greater jtart.
of the lake aiul its ialands. On the H. is Newport villa;4e and part of the Cljde
valley, with tiie nearer summits of Bear Mt. and Hawk Mt., !ils(» Jay Teak and
part of the Missis(iuoi valley. In the W. are tlie tail fodt-hills of the, (ireen Mts.,
whilt! Urome Lak«? is seen in the N. W., and far Ijeyond it tiie city of Montreal is
visible on a clear day. Nearer, in the same direction, are the Hog's Back and
Elephantis '*lts. Orford Mt. looms at the head of the laki; on the N., and in tlx;
N. W. are the ju-etty lakes of Littl? Magog and Massawippi. In the E. are several
villages in Stanstead and Derby. Mt. .\nnanan<'e is seen in the H. E. over Wil-
longhby Lake, and, far iKvontl, ihe dim blue jieaks of the While Mts. rise on the
hurizon-lino. The contrast between the rugged country towards Lake Chaniiilain
and the vast plains to tlie N. , traversed by the glittering rivers St. liawrence nml
St. Francis, is ver>' great, anil an element of rare b«!auty is added by the exten-
sive view over the lalce below. Amid these sublime scenes, in a glen near tlu'.
summit, the Golden Rule Lodge of Mason;-', from Stanstead, celebrate the mys-
teries of their order en the 2 Ith of June of each year.

^ M. from the Mountain House is Round Island, which resembles
Dome Island, on Lake George, or Fallen's Isle, on Loch Katrine. Farther
E. is Minnow Island, near which troiit abound. Skinner's Island is also
E. of the hotel, and has on its N. W. side a cavern in the rock, 30 ft.
long, 10 ft. wide (at the entrance), and 12-14 ft. high. The legend is
that a celebrated smuggler named Skinner (in 1812) always eluded the
closest pursuit of the customs ofTicers, by disappearing near this point,
One night, after a long chase, the officers found his boat on this island,
and turned it adrift on the lake. Some years afterward a fisherman,
lying under the lee of the island to escape a squall, discovered tlie cave,
hidden under heavy foliage.

♦• And what do you think the fisherman found?
Neither a irold'en nom Bib'er pi-ize,
But a skull with sockets where once were eyes ;

iry is marked

is tlie sinuU,

m village of

altered farniH

ire to the N.

I on the \V.

treasures of

proliahly de-

! E. shore of

;li and village

ehnroh, they

g 10 pounds.

made of tln^

Tlic steanscf

aestercd posi-

ounds on the

passes tliroiinh

riie summit is

ic greater jiarf.

t of the Clyde

Jay Teak anil

l.e Green Mts.,

of Montreal is

ofj's I3ael< and

N., and in IIk;

E. are several

5. E. over Wil

ts. rise on tl:e

ake (Jliamplain

liawience and

by the exten-

glen near the

u'ate the mys-

ch resembles

iue. Farther

Island is also

! rock, 30 ft.

lie legend is

s eluded the

r this point.

[1 this island,

a fisherman,

red tlie cave,

NFAV VOKlv TO QUEBEC. Jiuute SI 173'

Alio iiom«> h<)iip« of armi mul thijih*.
And II vurtobrul ('(111111111 olBinnt titv :
How tlicy K"t <li<'f»'. hf ctiiild n't doviBe,
Fur 111' 'd only lict'ii ..•ii'd to roiniiion^ilare nrvret,
, And knew niuiplif nf •• orRHiiir ri'iiiniiiH" in cavci ;

On niiittrr.i like lh<inp liisi wits wi'ro dull,
So lie dmiipid tin' (iiilgn t cih will as Uic skull.
' r in iiot'dioRS to Hiiy
111 tliU \,iWt day,
'T wns fh<« (imiijjRU'r » Iioih-h in the rave that lay :
All I vc 10 iidd in — the liones in agruvc
Were placed, and the cavern wa« called * Skinner n Cave." "

N. of this ]>oint is Limy Island, with i)alisades on its N. W. side, and
ivn immense rockmg-stone called Balance Hock on the S. shore. Ou Mol-
.■ion's Island, still further N., is the mansion of a >veulthy Montreal gentle-
man. On the W. shore, 1 M. above the hotel, are eliffs 700 ft. high, and
as the steamer goes N. the sharper outlines of Owl's Head become prom-
inent. Mt. Khj>luintis, or Sugar Loaf, is above Owl's Head ou the W.
shore, and is thought to resemble an elei)hant's head ..nd back. Far up
on the VV. slope of Ele})lKintis is a beautiful motuituin tarn, 2 M. long by
^ M, wide, ami aboumling in trout. The steamer touches at Oeoryeville
(Camperdown House), u pretty village on the E. shore, where many
Canadians jiass the sunnner. Tiie lake is now crossed (3 M.) to Knowl-
ton's LanduKj (1(5 M. from Newport), at the mouth of Sergeant's Bay.
This crossing has long been the main route to Montreal from the Eastern
Townships (Stanstead County), as stages nm from Knowlton's to the rail-
road station at Waterloo (20 J\I. ). The steamer crosses the month of the
Bay, passes the rocky (Jibraltar Point on the 1., and leaves the more
mountainous part of the lake, heading towards Orford Mt., which is seen
ill the N. A comparatively narrow strait is paused, and then the lake
widens into a broad expanse, at the end of which is the village of Magog
(Parks House), a small Canadiar. settlement, with fine trout-fishiug in the
rapids of Magog River. The latter stream flows through Little Magog
Lake, and empties the Mem})hremagog waters into the St. Francis River,
a noble tributary of the St. Lawrciuec. 5 M. from Magog (carriage-roail
to the summit) is Or/ord Mi., the highest peak in the Eastern Township.s.
Its view cnibracc'S Memi>lireniagog and its mts. on the S., Shefford Mt,
on the W., much of the valley of the St. Francis on the N. E., and tlie
waters of )8 lakes. A vast pine forest covers mucii of the country to the
N. and W., and Orford Lake, at the base of tlie mt., has a weirdly dark
und solitary appearance.

Daily .itages run from Magog to Sherbrooke (IG M. N. E.), an important
station m the Grand Trmik Railway, 101 M. from Montreal and 196 M.
from Portland.

Newport to Quebec.

Distance, ICl M. The time has usually been 10-12 hours, as trains on the
Cirand Trunk Uailway do not nial<e close coimeetions with the Massawippi line at
lSht'rljruul;e and Hichaiund.

174 Route 24. NEW YOKK TO QUEliEC.

I J

Tlie train crosses an arm of the lake alter leaving Newport, an 1 enters
the rich farming town of Derby, Station, iV. Derby (Derby Line Hotel),
soon after passing wliich tlie Anglo-Canadian frontier is crossed, ^lie
line now enters the Eastern Townships, of which the riverward parts
were early settled by the French, while the forest-towns were occupied by
pioneers from New England between 1790 and 1800.

The Canadian Hand-I3ook calls this " as beautiful a tract of country as perhaps
any on the continent, both with reg.ircl to mountain and lake scenery, beautilul
rivers, and fertile valleys. The mountains, wooded generally from base to sum-
mit, repose in majesty ; and as the mists, with which their summits are not un-
frequenlly crowned, withdraw themselves in folds along tiieir sides, they reveal still
more of the beautiful and sublime. Charms, ravines, and jirecipices are there,
and among their solitudes sublimity reigns. Beautifvd lakes lie roattered over
the surface of the (rountry, bordered here by gentle slojjes, there l)y jirecipitous
clilfs ; cultivated fields and wide-spread pastures, with woods interspersed ; val-
leys and plains adorned with farmhouses, single or in groups, and beautiful vil-
lages." ,^^^ .,^^

The first Canadian station is Siansteo Junction, whence a short branch
line runs to Stanstead Plain (4 trains daily), a large and thriving village
situated on fertile lowlands. 10 M. E. is Pinnacle Lake and Mountain,
the l?ittcr being a remarkable precipitous peak which rises sheer from the
lake. After passing some minor stations, the train reaches Massawippi, a
village in Hatley town, near which is the beautiful Lake Massawippi. This
lake is 9 M. long by 1 - 1^ M. wide, and swarms with many kinds of fish,
among which are maskinonge, trout, pike, pickerel, bass, and mullet.
Blackberry Mt. on the E. shore, abounds in blackberries during their
season. The train now follows the Massawippi River for 16 M. to its
confluence with the St. Francis, at /tenncxrille (two inns). This is the
seat of Bishops' College, an institute of high reputation, under the care
of the Episcopal Church, with ])reparatory schools attached, and a staff of
able professors. This college lias been called " the Eton and the Oxford
of Young Canada." Productive copper and lead mine., are worked in the
vicinity of Lennoxville.

Station, Sherbrooke {SherbrooJce House; Magog House), a manufactur-
ing village prettily situated at the confluence of tlie ?lagog and St. ^"ran-
cis Rivers. There are long rapids in tiie St. Francis near the village, and
other fine scenery in the vicinity. Sherbrooke is the metropolis of the
Eastern Townships, and is the most important station between Montreal
a id Portland. It contains the Stanstead County buildings, which are
well situated on a comniauding site. > , ^ .■<' - '•-;

Stages run daily to Magog, 16 M. S. W. on Lake Mempliremr.gog, passing Little
Magog Lake.

At Sherbr./oke the traveller changes cars, and proceeds by the Grand Trunk
Railway to Quebec (12i M.), or to Montreal (101 M.). See Route 40.

i '

BOSTON TO THE HOOSAC TUNNEL. Ruute 2o. 17.5

;, anl enters
Line Hotel),
I'ossed. ^'he
erward parts
occupied by

try as perhaps
lery, beautiful
base to sum-
3 are not un-
[ley reveal still
ces are there,
•'.•attered over
hy jirec'ipitous
rspersed ; val-
l beautiful vil-

short l>rauch
riving village
d Mountain,
ear from the
[assawippi, a
wippi. This
duds of fish,

and mullet,
during their
16 M. to its

This is the

der the care

md a staff of

the Oxford

oiked in the

manufactur-
id St. ^"ran-
village, and
ipolis of the
en Montreal
which are

massing Little
Grand Trunk

tf f/i^

IS. rW

* - 25. Boston to the Hoosac Tunnel.

Via Fitchburg R. R. and Vt. and Mass. R. R., in 130 M. Stages cross tlie
Hoosac Mt. to N. Adams, whence a railroa<l line runs to Troy and Albany.
Saratoga is sometimes visited by tliis route, but several chanpes are necessary.
The favorit.' route to Saratf)ga is by way of FitclibuTj^', Bellows Falls, Rutland,
And Whitehall (express trains in 0-11 Ins., witliout change of cars).

The train leaves the fine castellated granite station of the Fitchburg
Railroad (PI. 1) on Causeway St., near the Warren Bridge to Charles-
town, and soon crosses inc tracks of the Bo.ston and Maine, Eastern, and
Boston and Lowell Railroads, on their long trestles over Charles River.
Cliarlestown Heights on the r. and the long hills of populous Boston on
tlie I. are in sight for a few minutes, then the train runs past the stations,
Prospect St., Sumerville, Cambridge, Belmont, and WaveHey. Near the
latter station is the finest grove of oaks \\\ New England (see Flagg's
** Woods and By-vays "). - • :;

Waltham {Ventral Ihnise ; Prospect House) comes next, and is an active
town of about 9,000 inhabitants. Here, in 1814, was erected the first large
cotton-mill in America, and extensive mills are still in operation here.
The Waltham Watch Company's works are the largest in the world en-
gaged in making watches ; upwards of 700,000 of these timekeepers have
been sold in America, their reputation being very high. Every part of.
these popular and justly-celebrated watches is made by machine-work,
while the works of Swiss watches are formed by hand. The extensive
buildings of this company are on the banks of the Charles River.

At Waltha.ii, the traclc of the Watertown Branch rejoins the main line, after
pa.ssing several petty stations bet\Neen Waltham aud its divorf^ent point at liriek-
yard ./"uctlon. Watcrtovn is tlie most important of these points, while Mount
Au'ouru and Fresh Pond are also frequently visited by this route.

N. i'. Baiil<s was born at Waltham in 1810. llis jjarents were factory-hands,
and he hir.iself was for .some time a " bobbin boy." Apjilyiug hiuiself to study,
journalism, law, and politics, horo.se rapi<ily, aud was Member of (.'ongress in
185:! - 7-' and lS(>.J-7, (loveiiior of Mass. IS.'iS-Ol. During llie Secession War he
was a .MaJ. (ien., and was<lefi'atcd by rttonewall .laclvsou in tlie Sheunudoali Valley,
after whiih his jirmy was only saved by its superior fleetness. While command-
ing in Louisiana he took Opelousas and Alexandri;., iuHicting severe losses on the
enemy, aud then, after a Ion,.; sie;,'e. llie Mlssi.ssiitpi River fortress of Port Hudson
was siUTendered to his army. In 1864 lie advanced far nj) the Red River, but
after several sharp, sudden attacks by the. Confederate (Jeueral Dick Taylor, he
was forced to make a rapid an<l disastrous retreat witii his unwieldy expeditionary
force. In tlie Presidential contest of 1872, he joiri 1 the Liberal party, and conse-
quently failed to secure a re-election to Congress in that year.

After leaving Waltham, Prospect Hill is seen on the r., fromwho.se sum-
mit (480 ft. high) a fine view is obtained of Boston and its western subuibs.
The line soon passes into tlie valley of Stony Brook, aud beyond the
station of that name, stops at Weston, 1 AL N. from the bright upland
village of Weston. Lincoln is 1.^ M. S. W. of the village in the centre of
the town of Lincoln, near which are two large ponds well stockeil with

■r

17G Roule25. BOSTON TO THE HOOSAC TUNNEL.

fish. The train soon gains tlie W. border of the Ibrost-surrounJed Walikn
Pf/nd, on wliose huulis lived Tlioreau (sec page 28).

At Concord Junction tlie Framinghani and Lo\yo11 Railroad is crossed,
and then the train pass;^.s the stations, S. A don, IF. Acton, and Litth'tnn
(the Indian Naslioba). From S. Acton a branch road runs to Marlhoni"
(13 M. ), crossing tlie Pompaseitticutt district of the Indians, and stopping
at Mciynnrd, Rockhottom, and Hudson.

Beyond Littleton is Ayer Junction (formerly Groton Junction), a

flourishing village and railroad centre.

'i\ :'■.'.'•-

The Stony Brook Railroad runs to Lowell (13 M.) down the valley of the Stony
Brook, passing through the towns of Groton, Westford, and Chelmsford. Wesifoiil
lias a quiet village situated on far-viewing heights.

The Peterboro and Shirley Braneli runs to GreeHvilh or Mason Village (N. H.),
passing through the towns of Groton, Townsend, and Mason. Townsend Harbor
IS a village on the Squanicook River, and Centre & W. Townsend are small villages
of no importanee. Mason Villa„e was set off under the name of Greenville in
July, 1872, amid general jubilations an<l a salute of 40 guns. It Is a nianufaotur-
ing place, situated on the Souhegan River, which has here a fall of 80 ft. in a
distance of 80 rods.

The Worcester and Nashua Railroad crosses the present route at Ayer
Junction.

After leaving Ayer Junction, the Fitchburg Railroad crosses the towns
of Shirley, Lunenburg, and Leominster, with occasional views of Wachusett
to the 1. as the train approaches Fitchburg. Fitchburg {American Hotel;
Central House) is a small city (incorporated 1872) of about 12,000 inhabi-
tants. It was known in the colonial days as Turkey Hills, from the great
number of wild turkeys found here. It is a busy, plain, wide-awake place,
■which has quadrupled its poi)ulatiou within 28 years by its encourage-
ment of manufactures and by its being a centre of railroads. The city is
built along the banks of a stream which affords a fine water-power. Many
small factories are ranged along this stream, which is the life of Fitchburg.
1 ,000 men are engaged in the manufacture of machinery and agricultural
tools; 500 men are in the chair-making business ; 10 paper-mills, with 200
liands, turnout $1,000,000 worth of goods yearly; while two or three
cotton-mills ax'e well worked and busy.

Tlie views from Rollstone Hill (the seat of large quarries) and Pearl Hill
are of interest. In memory of her soldiers who fell in the Secession War,
the city has erected a fine monument from designs by Milmore. It repre-
sents the Goddess of Liberty, a soldier, and a sailor, all of heroic size, and
cast in bronze at Chicopee, in this State. These statues stand on a high,
inscribed pedestal.

In 1793, Fitchburg maintained a semi-weekly stage to Boston. At present it
has 7 trains a day running over 50 M. of track to Boston, by the Fitchburg Rail-
road, and 4 trains daily to Boston by way of S. Framinghani (58 M.). The Cheshire
R. R. runs hence N. W. to Keene and Bellows Falls (see Route 26) ; the Vt. and
Mass. runs W. to Iloosac Tunnel ; and the Worcester and Fitchburg R, R. runs S.
to Worcester.

:el.

BOSTON TO THE HOOSAC TUNNEL. Route 25. 177

ouiiJeJ Waldcn

'oad is crossed,
^, and Littletun
lis to Marlboro''
s, and stoppiii;'

n Junction), a

lley of the Stony
isford. Wesifonl

1 Village (N. H.),
ownsend Harbor
are small villages
of Greenville in
is a manufaotiu-
'all of 80 ft. in a

route at Ayer

)sses the towns
vsof Wachusdi
merican Hotel;

12,000 inhabi-

from the great
le-awake place,

its encourage-
|s. The city is
power. Many
3 of Fitchburg.
id agricultural
mills, with 200

two or three

md Pearl Hill
Jecession War,
ore. It repre-
eroic size, and
.nd on a high,

.\t present it
^itohlturg Rail-
The Cheshire
5) : the Vt. and
' R. R. runs S.

After leaving Fitchburg, the Vt. and Mass. track is entered upon.
Stations, W. Fitckhnrj and Wachusett, from which a line of stages runs
from the trains S. to Princeton and Wacliusett Mountain {Prospect
House, Worhusdt House, Mountain House). The mountain is easily as-
cended from the lofty village, and presents a remarkable view from the
ocean to the fiulhest lloo.suc Mts., and from Monad iiock in the N. over
the extensive lines of the lower Green Mts. Princeton is a favorite
summer-resort on acc^ount of its high location, its pure, cool air, and
its quiet ruralness.

Station, Westuiinstrr (Westminster Hotel), a town granted to the
veterans of the Narragansett War, and settled as Narragansett No. 2.
The village is 3 M. from the station on the highlands which form the
watershed between the ( 'onneeticut and Merrimack Rivers. Station, Ash-
burnham, which in the eoloiual time was called Dorchester Canada, liav-
ing been granted to men of the former i)lacc (in 1090) for campaigning
against the latter. This is al^o a hill town on the watershed highlands.
Station, Gardner (named for an oflicer who fell at Bunker Hill), near a
village which is extensively engaged in chair-making. The line now
enters Miller's River valley, and stops at Tcnipleton (Grove Hotel) in a
town granted to the old veterans as Narraganr.ett No. 6. The soil of
Templeton is fertile, and it abounds in manufactories. Occasional fine
views are gained from tlie elevated line of the track, especially of Monad-
nock and other mountains in the N. The road passes through the quiet
hill-towns oi Roi/alsfnn, Athol, Oranrje, Wendell, and ErHng, to Grout's
Corner, where it is crossed by the New London Northern Railroad (Route
12). At Grout's Comer the line leaves the valley of Miller's River and
or jsses the town of Montague to the Connecticut. This broad and beau-
tiful river is crossed on an open bridge (a rare thing on the New England
railroads), from which fine views are afforddd on both sides. After pass-
ing over a narrow intervale, the road cro.ises the Deerfield River not far
from its junction with the Connecticut, and follows its valley up to
Greenfield.

Greenfield (Mansion House, American House) is a beautiful village
situated on broad intervales near Green River, and not far from the union
of the Deerfieid and Connecticut Rlvcrs. It bears a ijleusing air of rural
simplicity, and is a favorite summer-resort on account of its attractive
environs, /routing the public Square is a handsome sandstone church,
the Town Hall, Post Office, and Court House. The soldiers' monument
occupies the centre of the Square.

The Russell Manufadxiring Co. has its works near this village. Here 5 - 600
men are enii)loyed in tlie manufacture of table-cutlerj', which is superior to that
of Sheffield. The works turn out annually about 300,000 dozen table-knives, and
100.000 dozen of miscellaneous cutlery, using up 500 tons of steel ; 150 tons of
cocoa and granadilla wood ; 30 tons of rosewood ; 50 tuna of ebony (from Mada-

S» L

1*^

1 !

;
• ■,

■ \

■ i

'I
fl
t (
■1

: i

■ }

5 *■

' (

> I

178

Route 25.

BOSTON TO TPIE HOOSAC TUNNEL.

gascar) ; 20 tons of oleiiliant's tusks ; 25 tons of emery (from Sniyriid) ; 200 tons
of grindstones (Nova Scotiu) ; 1.0 tons of bniss wire: 2,000 tons of et)ul ; 25,000
busliels of eliarcoal : and IJ tons of wux. The admirabli.' and ingenious ineehun-
ism used in tlieso works is worthy of note. There are also manufactures of
woollen goods, carpenters' tools, &e., in tlie town.

The Bear's Den i.s a dark ravine with a small cave, a .short distance S.
E. of the village, and at the S. cud of Uocky Mt. The PoeVs Scat is on
Kocky Mt., and coinniauds a plea.sing view, embracing the villages of
(Treenfield and Deerlield, the fair intervales of the two river.s, and a great
circle of hills surrounding all. Arthur's Sent is a lofty hill S. W. of the
village, commanding a view of thy villuijes and rich intervales of Deerlield
and Greenfield.

Decrjleld (see Route 24 i.s about 5 M. S. of Greenfield. The Caleraine
ax i Shclbarne Gorijes are much visited, an<l in Leydcn there is a re-
markable water- worn cut in the slate-rock, 10 -15 ft. wide, and oO-50
ft. deep, known as the Leydcn Gorge. Pretty cascades are found near
this place, and fornudable hills tower over it. The Coleraine (Jorcje is a
deep and romantic defile cut by the waters of the North River. The
Stillwater Road, to the S. W., over the level meadows of the Deerfield
River, and through the ancient village of Deerfield, is a popular and
pleasant drive,

4-5 M. N. E. of Grcenlield arc Turner's Falls. At daybreak, on a May morning
of 1G76, Capt. Tui-iier and ISO colonial soldiers, alter a long forced march by
night, attacked a jiowerful force of King Philip's insurgent Indians, who were
fncaniping here and rioting on the sjioils of <he captured English towns. Turner
surprised the enemy sleeping in their wigw^ams, and in the ensuing panic 140 of
them sprang into tiieir canoes, and were carried over the Falls and lost. 100
were shot or cut to pieces on the shore, and then Turner, having lost but one
man, marched off. But the disi)ersed Indians rallied in swan s .ind hung on the
line of retreat, and a rumor spread through the ranks of the olonials that King
Philip and 1,000 men had reinforced the enemy. The connnand now broke up in
panic, and Capt. Turner and 38 men were killed, besides many Avounded and
stragglers who were cut oil'. The Rev. Ilojie Atherton, who was j)resent in full
canonicals, was made i)ri.soncr, but the Indians were struck with such awe at his
presence that they s])eedily let him go. Capt. Holyokc led the remnant of the
force back to Hatfield. Alter this blow, says the old historian, " the enemy went
down the wind apace." Manv years later the town of Bernardston was granted
to tlie veterans of the " Falls Fight."

In 1702, a dam and canal (3M. long) were built here, to aid in the navigation of
the river. In 1860. the Turner's Falls Co. bought 700 acres near the Falls, laid
out d city, and built a curved dam 1,000 ft. long. The fall is 30 ft., and a water-
power equal to 10,000 horse-power has been developed by two canals. Several
manufactories have already been started here, and prophecies are heard of a sec-
ond Lowell. " During high water the roar of Turner's Falls is heard from six to
ten miles." Dr. Hitchcock calls this Fall a miniature Niagara. "They are by
far the most interesting waterfalls in this State, and I think I may safely say in
New England."

After leaving Greenfield the railroad closely follows the Deerfield River,
running far S. to flank Arthur's Seat, which looms up on the r. The Deer-
field Oorge is soon entered. "As to the defile through which Deerfield
River runs between Shelburne and Conway, it is so narrow that it is difficult
even on foot, to find a passage, though full of rouuuitic and sublime objects

!i^.

fEL.

iiynm) ; 200 tons
s of ctwl : 25,000
igoiiiidis Jueclum-
uiauufactures of

ort distance S.
oeVs Scat is on
the villages of
rs, and a great
11 S. W. of llie
les of Deei-(i('l(l

The Ciileraine
there is a re-
de, and 30 - 50
are found near
ine iSorfje is a
h River. The
' the Deerfiekl
a popular and

1 a May morning
orced march by
dians, who were
I towns. Turner
iig imnlc 140 of
s and lost. 100
iig lost but one
and hung on the
nials that King
low broke up in
iv wounded and
I present in full
such awe at his
renniant of the
the enemy went
ton was granted

le navigation of
■ the Falls, laid
t., and a water-
I'anals. Several
heard of a sec-
iird from six to
" They are by
»ay safely say in

eerfield River,
r. The Deer-
liich Deertield
it it is difBcult
iblime objects

BOSTON TO BURLINGTON. nuute 20. 179

to the man who has the strength and courage to pass through it." (Dr.
Hitchcock). The track lies through this defile, and reveals its beauties.
Station, Shelhurne FuUs (Woodward's Hotel). " Here the river, in a
Mistance of a few hundred yards, nn-vkes a descent of about l.oO ft. over a
Wodigious bed of rock. The river roars through a channel which it has
Vorn in the stone, leaping in two or tlnve distinct falls, and rush*'s down-
ward, as from flight to flight of a broken and irregular staircase ; Iho
jocks seem to have been hewn away, as when mortals make a road."
f^IlAWTHOUNP:). A large cutlery manufactory is located here, and the fa-
^nous Yale locks are made here. There are limestone caverns in the town.
L'.aving Bald Mt. on the r., the line soon crosses the river. Station,
BueJdand, in the town which gave birth (171)7) to Mary Lyon, the edu-
cationist, and founder of Mt. ilolyoke Sennnary. Tiie train now passes
out fiom the defde, and runs across the long town of f'harlemont (14 M.).
Centre Charlemont (Dalrymple's Tavern) is under the shadow of Bald Mt.
(not the same one as at Shelburne Falls ; there are many scores of Bald
Mts., so called, in New England). Cliarlenn)nt was a strongly fortified
frontier-town during tlie first half of the 18th century. The line now
passes Mt. Peak on the 1., crosses the river four times, and stops at ^oar,
N. of which is the town of Howe, witli the ruins of old Fort Pelham
(1744). After passing through some romantic glens, the line stops, at
present, at Hoosac Tunnel. Large stages are in -waiting, which carry
passengers over the Hoosac Mt. to N. Adams.

N. Adams to Troy, see Route 23. Troy to Saratoga, by Rensselaer and
Saratoga R. R., see Route 53.

26. Boston to Burlington and Montreal.

The train leaves the Fitchburg R. R. terminal station, on Causeway
Street, Boston, (PI. 1). Boston to Fitchburg, see Route 25. The train
passes on to the rails of the Cheshire R. R. at Fitchburg, and then runs
by the stations of W. Fitchbury, Westminater, S. and X. Ashbiimham,
and Winchendmi. The latter is a manufacturing tt>vvn on Miller's River
(American House).

Fitchburg to Peterboro,

From Winchendon the Monadnock R. R, runs N. 17 M. to Peterboro,
N. H., passing across the lake-studded town of Rindge, the birthplace
of Edward Payson, D. D., and Marshall P. Wilder. Station, Jaffrey, in
the town of the same name, which has an ancient church (now secular-
ized) whose frame was raised on the day of the battle of Bunker Hill
(1775). The workmen claimed to have heard the cannonading. In the
N. W. part of Jaffrey is Monadnock Mountain, with its smooth, round
top rising 3, 150 ft. above the sea. An extensive view is enjoyed from the

»:

\ i ii

180 Routed. BOSTON TO BURLINGTON.

Buniniit, embracing tiiany famous mts. on llie N. and W., and tlie luke-
strewn towns of Clicsliiio and Ilillsltorougli Counties. No less tlian 30
lakes are visible, tof,'etlier witli numerous villages, and it is said tliat
Bunker Hill Monument may be seen on a clear day. A good sinnnier
hotel has been erected on the slope of the nit., and is much frequented by
lovers of picturescjue scenery. On the pretty Contooconk Lake a smsdl
steamer has been jilaced, and makes jdcasant trips in summer. The lake
is l.[ M. long, and has one island of 10 acres. About 1^ M. S. E. from
Moiiadnock is a mineral spring containing carbonate of iron and sulpliate
of soda.

Station, Peterlnrro (two inns), a i)retty village ■with some few manufac-
tures. Stages run from this point to Dublin, Keeue, Wilton, Mason, and
Harrisville.

The train on the main line, after leaving Wliichendon, passes State
Line, and enters New Hampshire, stopping at Fitzwilliam (Monadnock
Mt. House; Cheshire House; and others), a picturesque hill-town with
many pon<ls. This town was named in 1773 for the Earl of Fitzwilliam,
and its present industry is mainly centred on quarrying granite. St itions
Troy (Monadnock House), a thinly settled upland town, with a stage-line
in summer to Monadnock Mt. ; MarUxyro (Marlboro House), a rugged
and unproductive town ; and Keene {Cheshire lluuse ; American House ;
Eayle House). Keene, the shire-town of Cheshire Co., is a beautiful vil-
lage on a meadow near the Ashuelot River. It has broad and pleasant
streets abounding in trees, and has numerous stores on Central Square,
its large trade with the surroiuiding country being a constant source of
wealth. There are here 3 banks, 7 churches, a high school, some man-
ufactures, and the county buildings of Cheshire.

The town has 6,000 iidiabitants. Near S. Keene the R. R. passes over
a fine granite viaduct 75 ft. wide pnd 45 ft. high. The Beaver Brook
Falls are about 2 M. N. of the village, and are much visited. The brook
falls over a stair-like succession of ledges 40 ft. into a deep basin which is
a haunt of large trout.

"Keene is a prmul little spot," which was settled under the name of Upper
Ashuelot ("collection of many waters"), about 1735. In 174G its fort was at-
tacked by a large ludijui force, and tlie villagers wlio were outside were cut ofl" by
the enenij. \ reinforcement from Swanzey drove off the assailants. In 1753 the
town was named in lionor of Sir Benjamin Keene, a friend of Governor Went-
worth, and at that time IJritish minister to Spain. It was among the first to re-
sist the British aggressions on the liberties of New England.

Stages run to Chesterfield, which has a lovely lake 8 M. in eireumferenee ; to
Surri) and Gilsvni; to Sullivan and Marlovj ; to htoddard, Itoxbury, and Nelson.

The Ashuelot R. R. runs S. W. to S. Venion. (See Route 12.)

Beyond Keene the main line passes the stations JiJ. Weatinoreland, West-
onoi clandy and Walpole (Wentworth House).

Walpole was settled in 1749-52 by John Kilbum and Col. Bellows. A strong
fort was erected near Cold River, and in 1755 the garrison of Kilburu was attacked

BOSTON TO BURLINGTON. Route Sd. 181

, and the lake-
No less tliau 30
it is said that
> good sumnior

I frecjueuted hy
Lake a sniidl

mer. The lake
M. S. E. from

II and suli)liate

.' few nianufac-
on, Mason, and

passes State
7)1 (Monadiiock
liill-town with
)f Fitzwilliani,
lite. Stations
th a stage-line
ise), a rugged
erican House ;
I beautiful s'il-
and pleasant
Jentral Square,
tant source of
ol, some nian-

R. passes over
Beaver Brook
1. The brook
basin -which is

name of Upper
ts fort was at-
were cut off by
ts. In 1753 the
joveriior Went-
the first to re-

niinference ; to
, and Nelson.

reland, West-

'iws. A strong
n was attacked

'by 400 ririii'hmcn and Indians. From noon till Hiinset the battle wa.s carried on,
the little li.Mnlful of henw.s within keeping up an iniH'ssant lire. The women
loaded the i^'uns, and nm tlie bullets, and when amniunitirin bepan to fail, picked
np the Indian shot which had cntere<l the house and melted them over for tlieir
husbaiid.s" guns. Several attacks on tlie heavy outer doors were met by deadly
volleys, and the enemy finally f^rew discoiirapd ami retired to the N. It i.s
thouidit that the valley towns were saved by this brave defence.

Henry W. Bellows, I). I)., the «reat-Krandson of Col. Hellows, was born at
Walpoltj in 1814. lie has been pastor of All Souls* ("liurch (Ncv York) for 3'>
years, and is one of the foremost divines of the Unitarian Church. He is an
elfMiucnt and powerful onitor, and is a leader in social reforms and philanthropic,
niovenients.

Walpole i.s a plca.sant village near the foot of Mt. KillMirn, and on the
verge of broatl intervales. It has wida streets lined with trees, a neat
Common, and several boardingdiouses for summer guests, with whom this
is a favorite resort. Ranm Falls, lilanchnrd Falls, and the Abenaquis
Spriu;i are near the village, while Deny Hill commands an extensive
view, including the Green xMts., A.scutney, Greylock, Monadnock, and the
valley of the Connecticut.

The line now crosses the river, and .stops at Bellows Falls (see page 164),
where Route 2!> crosses the present route. (Restaurant in the station. )
Beyond Hellows Falls the line runs along Williams River valley, and soon
begins the ascent of the E. slope of the Green Mts. Station.s, Rocking-
ham, BartonsHlle, Chester (Chester House). From the latter station
stages run to Windham, 10 M. S. W. ; Londonderry (Green Mt. House),
15 M. S. W. ; Weston, VI M. W. ; and Andover, G M. W.

Station, '^/rts.s-c^te, from which stages run to Baltimore (3 M. )and to
Springfield (7 M.), a village at Black River Falls. Station.s, Cavendish^
and Pmctorsville (Eagle Hotel), a neat village with two churches and a
bank. There are tine cascades on Black River, in this vicinity, and 1 M.
N. of the village is a valuable quarry of serpentine niurble which is equal
to the best African stone, and is largely used for decorotive puri)0S63
in Boston and New Yoik.

Station, Ludlow (Lnllow House), where the line passes over the Hog-
back, which is thought to have been an i.sland in some primeval lake, long
since drained by the break-down of the ear.teni serpentine ridge. Daily
stage to Plymouth. The train now ascends heavy grades by Healdville
to Summit, the highest i)oint on the line, beyond which the train starts on
a down grade which includes 1,000 ft. of descent in 18 M. Stations, Mt.
Holly, E. Wallinrjford, and Cutlingsvillc (small inn), which is near
Shrewsbury Peak, a commanding mt. 4,086 ft. high. Stations, Claren-
don, N. Clarendon, and Rutland (* Bates Hou.se, $2.50-3.00 ; Bardwell
House ; Stevens House). Rutland is a well-situated and prosperous town
of 10,000 inhabitants, having a large country trade and being widely
known for its marble-works. There are some fine commercial buildings,
othere pertaining to the town, and several notable churches. St. Peter's

182 Route 2U,

BOSTON TO BURLINGTON.

Catholic C'hurcli is a fine new building of stone, in the English Oothir
Ktyl(!, whilt! the Fipiscopai Church is a solid and n?assivc stone stnicttirr.
Near the twin spires which are seen on the hill is the handsome Ciwri
House of Rutland County, opposite which is a neat Government build-
ing. The town has a daily and 2 weekly papers, 7 cluirehes, 3 banks,
and numerous nianufactorics, prominent among which are the marble
works. The i»rini'ii»al quarries and sawing-niills arc at W. liutlntvl,
whence immense <|uanlitics of white marble are sliii)ped to all parts fif
America and Kuroi»e. It sells at the <piarries for a higher price thandoo
Italian marble delivered in New York. Large gangs of saws (without
teeth, and cutting by means of sand poured in from above) are constantly
running, to sei»arate the marble into slabs. ,,....

Rutland was sottk'il about 1770, and fortified in 177') as a station on the grc;:!
nortlicrn inibtary road. In 1777, Ht. Clair's routed army retreated through tln'
town.

Numerous i)leasant excursions may be made from Rutland. Claren-
don Springs are about 6 M. distant (stages connec^t with trains at V\ .
Rutland station). These springs are of great ellicacy, "containing in one
gallon, or 235 inches, 46 cubic inches of carbonic acid gas, 9.63 culijr
inches of nitrogen gas, 3 grains of carbonate of lime, and traces of other
alkalies." In a sequestered location near the springs is a large hotel, which
has been a favorite resort for many years (250 guests; $2.50 a day.
$10-15.00 a week). The drives in this vicinity are very pleasant, and
Clarendon Cave is often visited from the hotel.

Killinijton Peak is 7 M. E. of Rutland (9 M. to the summit). Tlie
road to its foot passes over the high, cold, and sterile town of Mendoii,
with the lofty and symmetrical peak towering in advance. The ascent of
Killington is very arduous, but not dangerous, and a ]>road and noble view-
is revealed from its summit, which is 3,924 ft. above the sea. Pico and
Shreiosburi/ are otlier ])rominent peaks in this vicinity, whose tops are
rarely visited. Excursions are also made to Sutherland Falls, 6 M. N.,
one of the i)rettiest waterfalls in Vermont. Near the Falls are large
marbla-quarries from one of which a statuary marble is obtained which is
said to be as fine as that of Paros or Carrara. There is a railroad station
close to the Falls.

After leaving Rutland, the main line runs N. by Sutherland Falls to
Pittsford. The village (Otter Creek House) is prettily situated, J M. E.
of the station, near fertile intervales on Otter Creek. Tliere are marbl.'
quarries in the vicinity. Station, Brandon {Brandon House, DougUm
House), a prosperous manufacturing village on the Neshobe River, Avitli
3,571 inhabitants, 5 churclies, and 2 banks. In this and the village of
Forestdale are 4 mineral paint companies, producing large (luantities of
paint from kaolin, which is mined in the vicinity. There are also marble

,41

BOSTON TO DUIILINGTON.

Route m. I8;i

le English Gothic
) stftne stnieturc.
handsome Court
ovcrnnicnt biiihl-
luircht's, 3 banks,
are the marble-
at W. Mutlawl
I to all parts (,\
er price than iWs
of saws (without
re) are constantly

ation on the grciit
witeil through 11 ic

utland. Claren-
ith trains at \\ .
containing in one
gas, 9.63 cnbic
d traces of otlier
arge hotel, which
s; $2.50 a day.
ry pleasant, and

■ summit). The

•wn of Mendoii,

The ascent of

1 and noble view

sea. Pico and

whose tops are

Falls, 6 M. i\.,

Falls are large

btained which is

railroad station

lerland Falls to
ituated, f M. E.
lere are marli!'
-louse, Douglcis
)be River, witli
[ the village of
3 quantities of
are also marble

quarries, producing common and tine statuary niarblo and lime. Va.st
quantities of bog iron ore are found, which is easily melted, and yithls 45
per cent of soft gray iron, adapted for cannon, car-wlicels, and other cast-
ings requiring gre;it strength. 200 tons of nianganesf! arc sent hence to
market, i)rinripally to Europe. In view of this mineral wealth, and also
of the riclrcrops on the intervales and the abundant timber on the hills,
Sir Charles Lyell said of lirandon, " I have yet to see, either in Europe
or America, a spot containing such a variety of unique and valuable sub-
stances placed by nature in ju.xtaposition." At Hrandon the Howe scale i
are made. Two curious caves are in the limestone ledges 1^ M. E. of the
villag*!.

Htophen A. riiunl.is was horn at nramlon, A]iril 23, 1813. Ho heennie a lawyer
in the Stiiti' of niindis, and aroso nipidly to lii^h honors. Uc was ii Congressman,
184:1-7, «ii<l Iroin 1S47 until his dtMili in 1801 lie was a U. S. Hcnntor. Ho was
eaiidiilato of the Pciiiocratic party i'or the Presidency in 1800, and was defeated,
tlinu^'li rf'ifivin;^ a liv^c jxipnlar volt!. H(> was the aiUlior of the " I'opular
Sov»!n'i«nty " dortrini- (that the people of the Tcrritnrics should decide, as to tlic.
admission of ncj^ro slavery, without tlie interference of (.'on;;ress). Ho favored
the peaceable annexation of Te.xas and Cuba, was actively conservative in tin-
slavery (piestion, and supporteil the (lovertunent against the rebellion of the
'Southern States.

yt.i;,'es nni from Brindon to SiuUmrft, 8 M. W., and to Laic Dunmore, M. N.

From Lcice^itcrJuncddii a '.ranch railroad runs W. across the farming towns o!'
Whitiivj, Shoirhdin, ami Orurll to TlconderoKa (17 M), Crown Point, and
Port Henrv (set* Route .O;}). This road cro.saes Lake Chaniplaiu on a long bridgn
near Fort Ticondero;,'a.

Station, Salifihur;/, 3-4 M. W. of which is the beautiful Lake Dun-
more, which is about 5 M. long and is environed by hills. Its clear waters
are 60 ft. deep, and abound in fish. Moosalainoo Peak towers on its
shore to a height of nearly 2,000 ft. and overlooks the lake and the sur-
rounding country, while there are rich lake-views from Itattlesnake Point.
Warnefs Cave (on Moosalanioo) and the Lana Cascade, E. of the lake,
are often visited. Lord Dunmove visited this lake (about the year 1770)
and, wading into its crystal waters, poured a libation of wine into it, saying,
" Ever after, this body of water shall be called Lake Dunmore, in honor
of the Earl of Dunmore." The .scenes of the romance, "The Green
Mountain Boys," are laid in this vicinity. On the W. shore is the * Lako
Dunmore House, which, with its cottages, can accommodate 200 guests.

Middlebury {Addison House, 80 guests, .$10.00-12.00 a week) is a
handsome village, situated near a considerable fall in Otter Creek. It
has some manufactures, bnt its pi'incipal product is marble, of fine (piality.
The Portland (Me.) Post Office is built of this mar1)le. Besides 4 church(^s
and a bank, the village contains the Addison County Court House, and is
the seat of Middlebury College. This institution was incorporated in
1800, and had, in 1871, 7 instructors, 05 students, and a library of 11,000
volumes. It has three large stone buildings on an ennnence near the
village, and is under the care of the Congregational Church. The favorite

, ,j '

■>

■ If

184 Route 27. RUTLAND TO BENNINGTON.

drives from Middliibut-y arc to Bi'ldo.n'a Falls (2 M.), Lake Dunvmrr
(8M.), find Klijin Spnntfs (sulphur), IG M.

8tnRP« nm to Com wall (I M). Bridport (8 M.), and WpybridRp (4 M ) ; ftlno tf)
Riptoii (lircad I/mt' Inn), 8^ M. K., which is under the Green MIh., «nil h&« a ft!W
HUinnier visitofH.

Stations, Bronkville and New Ilaren (New Havon Hotel), near New
Haven River and lar},;o marble (juarries. Stapes run to IJristol (KOO<l inn),
5 M. E., a pretty little hamlet on a hi^di ])lateau, from which tho Adiron-
dacks ami Green Mts. are seen. Stages also to Lincoln, ...iiong the mts.

Station, Vergennes {Stevens House ; FrankUn House) the smallest rity
in tho Union (1,570 inhabitiints). The site was chosen by Ethan Allen,
and is on a hill at the head of navigation on Otter Creek, 8 M. from lh»;
lake. It received its city charter in 1788, am', was named in honor of the
Count do Vergennes, French minister of foreign alTairs, 177-1-83. Otter
Creek has deep water, and is navigable for 300 ton vtissels to the Fulls at
Vergennes, which have a descent of 37 ft., and are improved for wat(M-
power. llic country in the vicinity is rich and productive, and comman«ls
views of the great mountain-(;hains on the H and W., " a .scene of grand-
eur and sublimity rarely paralleled on this side of the Atlantic." The
Champlaiii A rsenal is located here, and covers 28 acres of ground. It is
well stored with ordnance and munitions of war belonging to the United
States, as well as the military supplies of tho State of Vennont. Com-
modore MacDonough's fleet, which won the naval victory off Plattsburg,
was fitted out at Vergennes in 1814.

Stages nm to AfUlisnn, 6 M. 3., a famous old border-town, in whose 8. W.
comer is Chimney Point, opposite Crown Toint (sec Route 53). It is now nii
aKricultural town, widely known for its fine horses. The road to Addison passes
through Bridport, a broad, quiet farming town. About .'} 51. S. of Ver.ennes are
fine (cascades in Otter Crotk, near which is the Elgin Spring (.small hotel), con-
taining sulphate - of magnesia, iron, and .loda, and carbonates of .soda and lime.
A few miles W. of Vergennes, on the lake shore, is the Fort Vassln House.

Beyond Vergennes the line passes through Ferrisburgh, Charlotte, and
Shelbume, to Burlington. These are quiet farming towns with frequent
glimpses of Lake Cliamplain and the Adirondacks on the \V., and the
Green Mts. on the E. Stages run from N. Ferrisburgh to Monkton, which
has two pretty lakes.

Burlington, see Route 53.

Jii ^ 27. Rutland to Bennington. ^

Via the Western Vermont or Harlem Extension R. R. in 55 M.

Three trains daily leave the union stixticm at Rutland, but that which leaves at
about 9 A. M. is recommended, as the others are slow and carry freight-cars,
occupying over 5 hours in going 55 M. ■. ..<.r ., , - .•;;,. -'

Station, Clarendon, which is separated from the Clarendon Springs val-
ley by a mountain. The li)ie then crosses the tovni of Wallivrfford (2

RUTLAND TO nENNINT.TON. Route TT. 185

Lake Dumnnre

1 (4 M.) ; alno to
H., and liRn a frw

•tel), near New
stol(f?oo<l inn),
icli tlio Adiron-
iiong tlie nits,
le snialleHt rity
y Ethan Allen.
8 M. from the
in honor of the
71-83. Ott.T
o the Falls at
ived for watcM-
and commands
icene of grand-
tlantic." Tlie
groimd. It is
to the United
nnont. Coni-
pir Plattsburg,

n whose S. W.
It is now {111
i\ddison passes
f V'cr/ennes are
lall hotel), con-
soda find lime.
House.

CJmrlntte, and
witli frequent
3 W., and the
onkton, which

hich leaves at
ry freight-cars,

1 Springs val-

I ntntions) near the lofty ridge calle«l the White U<i(ks. Station, Mt. Ta-
in *r and Danhj/, between two ruggeil hill-towns, so-named, the former of
I which has le«« than 3()0 inhaliitantH on 23,376 acres of land, much of
whieh is on the summits of the Green Mts.

Stations, .V. /Mr.sr/ (Ciirtis House) and /i. Dnrsrf (E. Dorset House).
The lino nms through a valley between the (Ireen Mts. on the K. and the
marble hills of the Taconie system on the W. Mt. ^-Eolus, the highest
peak of the latter chain, has large marble (juarries on its E. slope.

Marble was llrst quarrifd here in 178;'). and now there an; (I'J K'nngs of saws nm-
nin;: liere and in Manrliesfer, .sawing' 7r»<»,onn ft. ye.iiiy. Over '.wn (iiijiri->-nien are
employed, and the Dorset marble is sent to every part of llie I'. >^. and Canada.
One (piarry prudmes tlie It^ili/ui marble, .so cilied from its rf.seml)lanee to that of
Camira. Tlie siijiply is inexhaustible, and tlie stone is foiniil in p -dlel strata
1-6 ft. thick, separated iiy thin seams of other rocU. Sometimes •_'<» of these
•trataare (ound.one above the other. Onthe.S. of Mt. yKobis (formerly called Dor-
let Mt ) is a remarkable cave containing .'< chambers and several loiii,' passa^'es in
the rock. Its innermost room is 50 ft. high, and has many stiilactites.

The line now ftdlows the \alley of the Battenkill to Man-'lio.i.'-er
{* Equinox Ilini.se, open Juik; vo Dec., a large and (irst-cla.ss hotel ; julin
House; V<iH(ferli]> Iloii.sf), This is a (piiet and beaut ifnl village at the,
ba.se of Mount Equino.v, and is much visited in sununer on account of its
pure air, picturescpie environs, and fine fi.sldng. The village sidewalk.s
are of marble from the inexhaustible (jnarries on the mt.s., and the prin-
cipal buildings are Burr Seminary and the Henningtou County Court
Hou.se. Aft. yEolus is 5 M. N. and Sfmftnn Mt. lies to the S. E., near
which is Strattnn Gop, a romantic pass which has been reproduced in one
of Durand's best paintings. A road has been constructed to the hou.se on
the sumndt of Mt. Equinox, which is 3,70(5 ft. above the .sea. From this
peak a fine *view i.s gained, which inclndes Greylock, chief of the Berk-
shire Hills, on the S., and the remote Cat.skills on the S. W. On the S.
W. is Saratoc^a, with parts fif the Hudson Valley running N. to I^iukes
George and Champlain, long reaches of which are visible. Mt, ./Eolus,
Killington and Shrewsbury Peaks loom up in the N. ; A.scutney is in
the N. W., and far beyond Strattim Mt. (S. of E.) is the dim blue
cone of Monacbiock. Skinner Hollow is a deep amphitheatrical gulf ou
the S. of Equino.x Mt., which has a cave so profound that snow remain.s
there all the year. There are also marble quaiTics in the Hollow.

The first meeting of th" Vermont Council of Safety took jilaeo at Manchester,
July 15, 1777, and ordered the assembly of tlie militia to meet Bur^oyne, who was
marcliinK oi. .\lbany. 1,400 men gathered here under Stark and Warner, and
encamped until tlic; Hessians a<lvanced on Ii<'nniiii;toii, wlien they marched down
and beat them. (^Vmong the best New Enj,dand historical romances arc "The
Green Monntjiin Boys " and "The Rangers," by Hon. D. P. Thompson. Their
scenes are laid in this part of the SUite during tlie Revolutionary era.)

Stages nm I], to the mountain-towns of Peru and Winhull.

Station, Arlington (two inns), a diversified town in which arc West and
Red ]^rtr,., several small caves, and a blowing spring. The State seal of

■■i

18G I{vu(e27. RUTLAND TO BENNINGTON.

1 »'

,t 1

'< i

Vermont had its origin here. A young English lieutenant was court in;-
an Arlington girl, and one day, while there, he engraved on one of Gov.
Cliittenden's honi-cups a picture of a cow and pine-tree and harvested
grain, being a view from the W. window of tlie Governor's house. Jrr.
Allen saw this engraving, and adopted the device for the seal of tin
State.

7 M. N. of Arlington is Sdnth/atr Xotch, a roniarkable papsage through the soli.i
rock, 30 ft. hiKli, 800 ft. Ion.!?, an<l les.s than 12 ft. Avide. Tliis pass is used by,
highway. Staj^es run frnni Arlini: >ii to Sandgate.

Stations, Shnftsbury, S. Sliaftsbury (stages to Glastonbury), N. Ben-
ninrjtMi, and BenningtOn (* Mount Anthony House, accommodating 2ti0
guests ; Stiuk House ; Putnam House). Bennington is a pretty villa^'i'
situated 800 ft. above the sea and overlooking tlie surrounding country,
It has 4 churches, a seminary, a bank, and two weekly papers, while the
population of the town is nearly G,000. 1 M. from this village is Old
Bennington Centre, of Revolutionary fame ; a quiet hamlet with tlif
county buildings on its main street. Here stands the old Catamount
Tavern, whose sign was a stuffed wild-cat on a pole, grinning fiercely to-
wards New York. The State Council of Safety used to meet here, and
make plans to defend the State against the claims of New York and tlio
armies of the king. Ethan Allen's house is also preserved, and stands
next to the Tavern. '

Mount Anthony is 2 M. by foot-path from Bennington {i\ M. byroad).
From the tower on its siunmit p beautiful view is afforded, including most
of S. W. Vermont, Mt. Eipiinox, Mt. iEolus, the broad valley of t!ie
Walloomsack, Greylock in Berkshire, and peaks of the Catskills. Pros-
pect Mt. and the pickerel ponds of Woodford, in the E., are much visited.

Stages run on the great southern liigliway across the State to Brattleboro.

Bennington was settled in 1701 by Mass. people, and was named in honor of
Benuing Wentworth, Govenu)r of N. H For GO years it was the most populous
]ila((! in Verniont, of wliicli it nf)W is the fourth town. Soon aft-T its settleniei.t
the territory now oecupied by Vermont was transferred, by royal edict, from the
jurisdiction of New Hampshire to tliat of New York. Tlie titles of the settlers
to tlicir lands were rendered null and void, and it bccime evident that the;' must
either repurcliase, abandon, or defend them against New York and the king. Tin'
sturdy pioneers determine<l on liie latter course, and their well-organized resist-
ance left the territory in a state of anarchy luitil the outbreak of tiie Revolutidii.
The headciuarters of the auti-New-York party was at Beniungton, and here, in
1777, was established ,• d«pot of military snjiplies. Foil Ticonderoga was t.ikeii
by an expedition from this jdaoe (1775), and when Burgoyne's royal army was
marching w\ Albany, ht; sent Col. Baunie with the Brunswick Dragoons and ii
motley swarm of Canadians, Tories, and India'-, to capture Henniugton. This
force (about 000 men) met Lieut. -Col. Gregg auu 200 Verindnters, and <lrove tlieiii
back until Gen. Stark's brigade moved up from Bennington (5 M. distant). Baunio
now haltv-' and threw up euirenvdinients on a commanding hill, and Stark en-
camped near by. After two days' skirmishing. Star!: was .joined by a regiment
from Berkshire, which, with the .'! N. 11. re.giments and llerriek's Hangers, gave
liim a force of 1,800 men. On the uay before the battle, Parson Allen, of Berk-
shire, said to St'trk, "General, the people have been tuo often called out to \w
purpose. If you don't give them a chance to fight now, they '11 never turn out
again." "You would n't turnout now while jt's dark and rainy, would you? '

RUTLAND TO ALBANY.

Route ZS.

187

it was courtiiK'
on one of Gov.
and harvestfd
r's house. Jrr.
he seal of tlie

hrough the soli.'
lass is used bv ;;

bury), N. Ben-

mmodating 200

I pretty villau'i

indiug country.

pers, while tln'

village is OhI

milet with tln'

old Catamount

ling fiercely to-

meet here, and

York and tlie

red, and stands

4^ M. byroad),
including most
L valley of tlie
atskills. Prcs-
e much visited.

Jrattleboro.
imetl in honor of

most i)0|(ul()iis
r its sottlcnu-i.t

edict, from tlio
i of the settlers
: tliat tiic^' must
(1 the kin^. Tlic
-or^ianized resisl-

tlio Revohiticiii.
on, and hero, in
eroga was IhiUcii

royal army Avas
Dragoons and ;i
■nnington. This
and drove tliPin
listant). Bauiiio
1, and Stark en-
;d by a regiment
's Hangers, gave

I Allen, of Beik-
dled ont to no

II never turn out
ly, would you .' '

said Stark. " Well, no, not just now," answered the Pardon. " Well." answered
Stark "if the Lord slioidd once more give us sunshine, if I don't give you fight-
ing cnongh, I '11 never ask y<iu to tnrn out again." On the morning of Aug. 10,
1777 the American militia were dr.iwn out, and three detichments were sent to
attack the Hessian right, and ri-,'htand K-ft reir "See there, men ! there arc
the redcoats. Hefore night they are nnr.s, or Mnlly Stark will be a widow,"
cried Stark, as he led his men to the attack. The Indians tieil l)etween the con-
verging columns, and the Tories soon gave way, but the German soldiers fought
witTi their swords wlui' their amnumition hail giwn out, and only surrendered
when enveloped by superior numbers. The action lasted lor two hours, " like one
continued clap of "thunder," and scar-ely had the victors begun to rest when Col.
Iheyman came near tlie Held with a large rei.iforcement for Ilauine. Fortunately
Warner's Vermont regiment ha<l just arrived on tlie tidd, and the valiant Waiiicr
(who had Wen aniniig the foreiiiost in the battle) led them aijainst the enemy.
The other cor^KS were soon hurrieil to their support, and Hreyman retreated al,
sunset. -I'M of the enemy were killed and wounded, 700 were made prisoner:,
and 4 cannon were taken. ' The Americans lost about 200 (or, according to Stark's
report, 7o killed and wounded). The KJth of August has been observed as a holi-
day at Hennington ever since the battle.

From Hennington to Xew York, the trains run in 9 -12 hours, by Lebanon
Sprin,trs (see Route 2:?), Ciiatham Four Comers, Croton Falls, and White Plains.
Trains to Albany in 4^ -G hours.

28. Rutland to Albany.

Via the Rensselaer and Saratoga R. R. in 101 M. Fare, §3.(55.

Stations, Centre Rutland (near which the river is crossed at Gookin'.s
Falls), and W. Ruthuul, with its grcr^t marble-works. Stages run hence
to Clarendon Springs (see page 182) in 4 M. ; fare, 75 c. Station, Castleton
{Sanford House), a pretty village on a plain near Castleton River, which
has a State Normal School and five churches. There are marble and slate
quarries in this vicinity, also works for preparing marbleized slate, an ex-
cellent iniitatiou of marbh'. 100 men are engaged here in making white
soapstone slate-pencils, J500,000,000 of whicli are n.ade yearly. At W.
CVstleton, 1,000 billiard beds and 2,000 mantels of slate are made yearly.

Excursions may be made from Castleton to Lnk^, Bnirmseen^ 4 M. N.
W. This Lake is 8 M. long and 1-2.^ M. wide, and is lined on its W.
shore with marble-mills and slate-cpiarries.

7 M. N. of Castlebui is IluJtluirdtnn, where, near the Baptist tdnirch, is an obe-
lisk near a llagstaff, whiidi marks the battle-liehl of July 7, 1777. As soon as th"
Britisli knew Miat St. Clair had evacuateil Ticoii<leroga, (Jen. Frazer was sent in
pursuit of him witli a small force of light infantry. Tin; American rear-guard
was composed of '. thin re.giments, one of which retreated as soon as the action
commenced. Frazer attacked the regiments of Warner and Fiaiic'swith 700 men.
The numbers were ubout ecpial, and tlie liglit was lont' and desperate. At List
the Baron Iliedesel arrived on the held witli liis Hi ..uswickers, and the .AnuM-ican
lines were bi-oken. They l(,;it .">:.'4 men, including Col. Francis, who fdl at the
head o;' his re'.^inient. while \\\v. British loss was lS;t. The bones of the sliiii
Ideaclied on the battle-liil.l in (lie lU'Scrlcd town for 7 years, when they were
buried near the site of the monumeiit.

Eutland and Washington Line.

Poultney {VonUney Ilonse ; Bcaman's) is 7 M. S. of Castleton, on the
r iitland and Washington Railroad, The line passes through a region

i, '/ ; i i

«1

p I i

■I i

. ,1

^ i

■i ''

1 i

1 1'

•"■

< 4

188 Route 29.

BOSTON TO MONTREAL.

abounding in slate-quarries, the chief of wliich are the Eagle, Copeland,
and Snowdon. Poultney is a handsome village, where Horace Grteley
learned the printer's trade, 1826-30, and Jared Sparks mastered the car-
penter's trade. At one end of tlie village is tlie large building formerly
occupied as the Ripley Female College, 7'his fine old building is situateil
in pleasant grounds, and is now used as a summer boarding-house (25i)
guests, $10-12.00 a week). Among the principal points frequented by
visitors are the Goi-ge, the Bowl, Charter'? Falls, Lake Bomaseen, on the
N., and Lake St. Catharine (or Austin) on the S. The latter is about fi
M. from Poultney, and is over 5 M. long. Near the foot of the lake is a
promontory on which stantls St. Catharine's Hotel, with the quiet waters
nearly surrounding it, and the Haystack, Moosehom, and St. Catharine
Mts. near by.

Middletown Springs are 8 M. E. of Poultney (stages daily, 75 c).
These si)rings are mainly impregnated with iron, and have become a very
popular resort. The Montvert Hotel accommodates 300 gitests; $3. JO a
day, $ 15.00 a week. The Valley House is a smaller hotel in the vicinity.

Beyond Poultney the Rutland and Washington Division runs along tlie boraovto
Eagle Bridge and Troy, 68 M. from Poultney, S;,o]>ping at tlie Vermont stations of
Pawlet and Rupert.

Beyond Castleton the next main line station is at Hydeville (Lake
House), at the foot of Lake Bor!\i'.see. • Station, Fdirhaven (Vermont
House), with a neat oval park, fv la ,..jh the streets radiate. Vast
amounts of slate for roofing and other purposes are quarried in this town.

Daily stages run N. to the farming towns of Westhaven and Benson (10
M. ), on the shore of Lake Cham plain. Beyond Fairhaven the line reaches
Whitehall (N. Y.), whence the Cham plain steamers start for Ticonderoga,
Burlington, .and Rouse's Point. For a description of the Lake, and of the
railroad from Albany to Whitehall, see Route 53.

29. Boston to Lowell, Concord, and Montreal.

i-tt>«-

Via the Boston and Lowell, Northern, and Vermont Central Railroads. Dis-
tance, to Lowell, 2G M. ; to Concord, 75 M. ; to Montreal, 334 M.

(The other routes to Montreal are (1) by way of Fitchburgand Rutland, 344 M. ;
and (2) by way of Portland and the Grand Trunk Rail''' t^ > 405 M.)

By the Lowell route, Pullman and passenger oat .in through to Montreal,
without change, in 14-16 hours. Through express ^ ; .. usually leave the Bos-
ton and Lowell depot, in Boston, at 8 o'clock, A. I''., .- a.' *$ P. M., arriving in
Montreal, respectively, at about 10 o'clock in the evaniw- . 1 10 in tlie moniing.
The line passes through the ]>opulous cities of T;Owell, i. . I'ua, Maschester, and
Concord, and tlien runs N. W. through the pleasing rural scenery of New Hamp-
shire and Vermont.

The train leaves the superb terminal depot of the Boston and Lowell
R. R., in Boston, and crosses Charles River, with the city of CharlestoAvn
resting on hills to the r. After passing seven suburban stations, the train
reaches West Med/ord (2 hotels), on the Mystic River, the seat of Tufts

jle, Copeland,
orace Grteley
itered the car-
ding formerly
ing is situateil
ig-house (25t)
requeiited by
aseen, on the
er is about
' tlie lake is a
! quiet waters
St, Catharine

daily, 75 c).
)ecome a very
ests; $3. JO a
1 the vicinity.

igtlieboraorto
unt stations of

ieville (Lake
en (Vermont
idiate. Vast
in this town,
id Benson (10
e line reaches
Ticonderoga,
ce, and of the

real.

lih'oads. Dis-

tland, 344 M. ;

I to Montreal,
leave the Bos-
I., arriving in
I the nioniing.
iBchester, and
f New Hainp-

and Lowell
Charlestown
)ns, the train
)at of Tufts

BOSTON TO MONTREAL.

Route '^9. 189

College. The handsome buildings of the College are on Walnut Hill,
isonie distance S, , and near the College Hill station. Tufts College is a
well-conducted institution, founded in 1852, and having (in 1871) 15
instructors and 62 students, with 10,000 volumes in the library. It is
nii'ler the care of the Universalist Church, and its president is Dr. A. A.
.Afiiior, a leader in that sect. " Meadford " was settled about 1633, on the
Indian lands called Missituck, and soon won a fame for its shipbuilding
■wiiich it still ^.reserves,

■(ohii Brooks, who was born here in 1752, fought througli the Revolution, com-
iiKiiidiiig in succession the I'.'th, 8th, and 7th Muss, regiments of the Contiueutal
;ii:.iy. lie was Governor of Mass. 18lG-2;i

Maria G. Brooks, born here in 1795. was called by Robert Southey "the most
iiii passioned and most imaginative of all poetesses."

The line passes along Mystic Pond and stops at Winchester. On a hill
near this pond, lived Nanepasheniet, "the Moon-God," an early sachem
ot the Mass, Indians, He was killed in battle about 1619, and buried in
his fortress here. Station, Winchester, whence a branch track runs to
Wobuni (2 M.), a large village engaged in manufacturing (pianos, tan-
neries, &c,). The pretty lakelet called Horn Pond is close lo the village.
Station, E. Wohxirn, whence a branch track runs to Stoneham, a busy
shoemaking town, near which on the S. is the romantic Spot Fond, sur-
rounded by hills, and 143 ft, above the sea, studded with islands, and
covering 283 acres. It was found and named by Gov. Winthrop, in 1632,
and has become a favorite resort for Bosionians.

Stations, X. Woburn, Wilmington, Billerica. The latter station is in
au extensive farming town, Tewlcsbury, 2 M, N. of the station, is the
beat of a large institution for the State's paupers. Shortly after leaving
N, Billerica the line crosses the Concord River and enters Lowell.

loweU. ' t' •

Hotels. —There is need of a good hotel in this city. The American, City, and
Lovejoys are the principal houses now in the city,

Pawtucket Falls was a favorite fishing-place of the Indians until their
extinction, and was often visited by Eliot and Gookin, In 1826 a town
was set otf here, and named Lowell, in honor of a Newburyport gentle-
man, who introduced the cotton-manufacture into the United States.
The Pav 'tucket Canal extends from the head of the Falls to the Concord
River below the city, and furnishes an innnense water-power, hnving a
fall of 33 ft. To obviate the trouble caused by an occasional decrease of
water iu the Merriinac River, a large canal has been built from the outlet
of Lake Winuepesaukee (commenced in 1846), The Pawtucket Canal
was cut late in the last century, for purposes of navigation, but did not
pay, and was bought in 1821 by Boatonians, who establish( i a factory
here. There were then 12 houses here, and in 1828 the population had

I] 1 1

til .■

.< 3

I) '

•,

* i

■ t

'* f

;.- f

190 Iiuutf29.

BOSTON TO MONTMEAL.

risen to 3,532. The Merriraac Mills were started in 1823, aiul at present
their enormous works turn out 12,000 miles of cotton cloth yearly.

Beginning rp-stream, the first line of factories belongs to the Lawrence
Mills Co., wliilo on tlie c:in:il, parallel with Suffolk St., are the; Tremout
and Sullblk Mills. Below the Lawrence Mills are the ininiense Merrimao
Mills and Piint Works (foot of Prince St.), which are suoceeeded along
the river-front by the Boot and the Massachu.sotts Mills. The Middlesex,
Prescott, Aintleton, llandlton, and Lowell Carpet Mills are on the canal,
S. of !\ferriniac St., and are best seen from the bridge on Gorham St.

In 1871, there were at Lowell Gl) nulls, witli a capital of .<; 11,000,000,
employing y,404 women and 5,413 men, and running 570,oSG si)indh;.s
and 13,460 looms. 41,036 tons of coal, 18,200 bushels of charcoal, and
1,855 cords of wood were used yearly for the engines (of 5,."20 horse-
power), and 105,776 gallons of oil, 1,000 tons of starch, 2,662 tons of
wool, and 16,740 tons of cotton were consumed yearly. The chief annual
products w( :e 2,530,000 yards of woollen stuffs ; 1.921,000 yards of carpet-
ing; 130,000 shawls ; 9,000,000 pairs of hose; 51,691,200 yards of cloth,
dyed and pi'inted ; and 122,096,000 yards of cotton fabrics. In addition to
the steam horse-power (5,320), there is about 10,000 horse-power derived
from the canals. Besides the long line of factories on the canal, another
great line is built along the Concord River, which here joins the Merrimac.

When the factory system was first inaugurated, the operatives were
mostly Americans, but now the mills are worked almost entirely by
Irish, Nova Scotians, and French Canadians. So, with the 15,000 opera-
tives, mostly foreign, Lowell possesses but little of the aspect of a New
England city. The French have a large and handsome church (Catholic),
Dear which is the great hospital of St. John, conducted by the Sisters of
Charity. The city has 42,000 inhabitants, with 26 churches, 62 schools,
about 6,000 dwelling-houses, 10 lodges of Masons, and 4 of 0<hl Fellows.

Lierrimac St. is the main thoroughfare of the city, and contains long
lines of shops. On this street is the Post Ofiice, City Hall, and a vener-
able-looking Episcopal Church and rectory. On S. Common is St. John's
Church, also the buildings of Middlesex County (which was organized in
1643, together with Essex, Suffolk, and Norfolk Counties). On Merrimac
St. is a large public library, and the Y. M. Christian Association has
pleasant reading-rooms near the corner of Merrimac and Gorham St.s.

Lowell has been visited 1>y many of the distinguished foreigners who have trav-
elled in America. SirClmrles Lyell eamo here, also Liuiiles Dickens, who devoted
a chapter (IV., Auierieau Notes) to it, and Fredrilca Bremer, who speaks of the
" glorious vie"" irom Drewcroft's Hill on a cold winter evening, of the manulac-
tories of Lowell lying below in a half-eircle, glittering with a thousand lights, like
a magic castle on the suow-eovered earth."

By going to the upper end of Merrimac St., and turning to the 1., one
comes to the bridge over the Merrimac, from whicji a view of Pawtucket

BOSTON TO MONTREAL.

liouteSO. 191

.1 at present
:early. '-'^
:ho Lawronce
tho Tremoiit
>e Merrimao
eecded along
le Middlesex,
)ii the canal,
!iam St.
§11,000,000,
o8G sj)imllo.H
charcoal, and
5,020 horse-
G(i2 tons of
chief annual
■ds of carpet-
ds of cloth,
n addition to
)wer derived
inal, another
10 Merrimac.
^ratives were

entirely by
E>,000 opera-
ct of a New
h (Catholic),
e Sisters of

62 schools,
idd Fellows.
3ntains long
and a vener-
is St. John's
organized in
)n Merrimac
jciatiou has
am Sts.

ho have trav-
, who devoted
poalvs of tho
tho niauul'ac-
id lights, like

3 the 1., one
P Pawtucket

Falls and the canal entrance may be gained. On a little enrailed green

[on Merrimac St. the city has erected a luonnment to two of her young
iiien, Ladd and Whitney, who belonged to tho 6th Mass. Militia ileg.,
and were killed during the murderous attack on that corps l*y the roughs
of Udtimore, April 1!', 1S61. Near this niominipiit is a * bronze statue
of Victory, by the celebrated German sculptor, Kauch, which has been

I ( rectetl as a memorial to the men of Lowell who fell in lighting against

I the Rebellion. " j= \

After leaving Lowell, the line follows the Merrinuic River to Concord.

> A seat on the r. is preferable. Stations, ^fiddlcscx, and X. Chrhiisford.
Middlesex is at the N. end of the old Middlesex Canal, running from this
point to Boston, 27 M. It was completed in 180S, at a cost of S r)2S,000,
and had 20 locks in a fall of 136 ft., but since the era of railroads began,
it has been neglected, and is not used. At N. Chclmafard the Stony
Brook Railroad comes in from Groton (Ayer) Junction. The line soon
regains the banks of the Merrimac near Wicassic Falls, and stops at
Tyiuisbi'Ti)', soon after which it crosses the State line and enters New
Hampshire.

r-'.- v-^ >, -1,-,. iwi - ,•; - Nashua. ■•.:■'>' -^'^ ■ ^y '. .. :r,n m^

Hotels, * Indian Head, conier Main and Pearl Sts. ; Treniont ; MerrUnac, oppo-
site Iho station, i^i" : 1 ■ - I ■ i- / ;,^- ' '-..'■ 1' .c.i. )' >ii.

The town of Dunstable (in which Nashua was included) was settled
before King Philip's War, and was bravely defended through that and
the succeeding conllicts. So late as 1803, the present site of the city was
a sandy plain covered with j)ine-trees. The Nashua Manufacturing Co.
Was chartered in 1823, and factories were erected along the canals, •while
the new village grew in importance, until in 1853 it became a city.

Nashua is u pleas.int city (10,511 inhabitants), "'uatcil on hilly grouml
at the conlluence of the Merrimac and Nashua Rivers. It has 11 churches,
6 bodies of Masons, 3 of Otld Fellows, and 1 daily and 2 weekly news-
papers. The streets are 1 road and well-lighted, and lined with trees,
while some of the churches and private residences arc of pleasing ajipear-
ance. " By the womlrous alchemy of skill and enterprise, out of the
waters of the Nashua and the sands of this pine plain, from some half
a dozen dwellings have been raised up these thronged and beautiful
villages."

The water-power is taken from Mine Falls on the Nashua River, from
which a canal has been cut 3 M. long, 60 ft. Avide, and 8 fi. deep, with a
head and fall of 36 ft. The Nashua Manufacturing Co. and other cotton
mills have over 2,000 operatives. 110 men are engaged in making cards
and gla;5ed paper ; 150 men make locks; 75 make fans; 40 make hoop-
skirts ; 70 are engaged on soapstone work; and 160 make shuttles and
bobbins. The Underbill Rlge Tool Co. uses 100 tons of iron and steel

111 i rr

> '

■e ,

.. ^

yl' '

«1'

'i;

192 noutc29.

BOiSTON TO iMONTREAL.

annually; the Vale Mills consume 500 bales of cotton; ami the immense
Nasliua Iron Works cons:unie 3,000 tons of iron, bOO tons of steel, and
4,000 tons of coal each j'ca.. Besides the goods already mentioned,
Na.shua i^roduces yearly 30,000 yards of ingrain carpets, and 16,000 bed-
steads, -

The station of the through line is 1 M. E. of the cciure of Nashua. Tho Wor-
cester and Nashua station is on tlie niuin street, and the Boston station is i M.
N. of it, in the centre of the city.

KfUiliua to Wilton.

From the latter station the Wilton Bnin<'h R. R. runs 10 M. N. W. to Wilton.
This line i isses througli a i)leasant and retired liill-eountry, uiueh fretiuented Ijy
city people in sunmier.

Stations, S. Merrimac and Auihcmt. Tlie main village ol" Amherst town is some
distance N. of the stiition, and tlie jiojiuhir Amherst Spring (good hotel) is about
y M. from the station (stages to the village and sjirings). The village is on a higli
plain, ^ M. square, and abounds in shade-trees.

This' town was granted to Essex Co. veterans of the Narragansett War, and
v.as named in \H'A), in honor of Gen. Amherst, the commander in the Conquest
of Canada. It sent 120 men to the Continental Army, although its population in
1775 was larger than in 1S70. In a small fanuhouse, 5 M. from Amherst village,
Horace Greeley was boi'n, Feb. Ij, ISll. He learned the printer's trade in Poult-
ruy, Vt., between his 1011) and li>th year, and soon after went to New York, where
lie started several ]japers (tlie Monti mj J'v^t, Nen'-Yurkcr, Jcffersonian, Log-Cabin).
In ISU he founded the A\w Yorl: Tribune, which became one of the nicst
jirwcrful and spirited of the New York newsjiajieis, and advocated the abolition
of slavery, the elevation of the laboring ( la.sses, and the protection (by tarid)
of American manufactures. Mr. Greeley generally sujqtorted the measures of
tiie Republican party from its origin until 1S72 altlioiigh lavoring a more
extended amnesty for the Southern States. In 1872 he .joined the Liberal party,
Avhich seceded from the Republicans on account of dissatisfaction with Presideiii
G'rant's administration, lie was nominated as candidate for the Presidency by
the Liberal Convention at Cincinnati, and by the Democratic Convention at Bal-
timore. After a long and bitter campaign. Grant was re-elected, and soon after,
W()rn out by toil, Mr. Greeley <lied near New York. He was eccentric in many of his
M'ays, and loved a quiet, rural life, while his powerful andiamgent editorials made
him the leading journalist in America.

Station, Milford (Union House ; Milford Springs House), a manufacturing vil-
lage on the broad meadows of the Souhegan River. Stages run daily to Moure
y-r un} with its " beautiful ])rospect of towns and villages in the Merrimac aiii
Souhegan valleys. Sunrise in summer brings to view a vast expanse, including
the beautiful villages of Massachusetts ; while from the spire of the church car
be seen the snow-white sails upcn the distant ocean. The name is a fit embki.
of the spot; for, clustering around this eminence, are numerous farms, intheiiiik
seasons clad in tlie richest verdure." The large summer-hotel was partiull
burned in 1S72, but is in process of reionstruction.

A daily stage runs from Milford to Francestown (small inn), the birthplace of
Senator Ijcvi Woodbury. The town has one mountain and two lakes, alsoaquan)
of line gray freestone.

Station, n'(7^o?i (Whiting House), a manufacturing village in a glen on th-
Souhegan River. 2,000 gallons of milk, besides other dairy products, are sent t
Boston daily from tliis town. This is a popular summer resort (2^ hours fioi.
Boston), l>eing rich in hill-scenery and falling waters. Barnes' Cascade, Pai'i
Monadnock Mt, and Lyndeborough are often visited. A daily stage runs frot
Wilton to Li/adcboroui/A (Mountain House). - .

Nashua to Concord. 35 M.

Stations (on the main line), TlwrntorCs Ferry, Merriiruic, Reed's Fern
Goff's Falls, and Manchester.

.%■ \

BOSTON TO MONTREAL.

Route 29. 1 93

the immense

of steel, and

y mentioned,

(I 16,000 bed-

liua. The Wor-
II sUition is \ M.

W. t«) Wilton.

h lietiuontt'il In

Tst town is some
I lioti'l) is about
llage is on a hi^'li

lausett War, and

in the Conquest

its vopulatiou in

Anilierst village,

s trade in Poult-

Ki'W York, where

mlan, Log-Cabin).

one of the most

vted the abolition

itection (by taritt)

the measures of

fnvoring a nioii;

the L'beral party,

i(in with President

the Presidency by

Convention at Bal

d, and soon after,

ntrie in many of his

;ent editorials made

manufacturin}; vil
run daily to 3/oi(i.;
the Merrimac an-:
expanse, ineludin,
i of the church c;i:
me is a fit enil)ki.
us farms, in the mil
tiotel was partiall

) the birthplace of
o lakes, also a ipwn;

'e in a glen on tli-
Iroducts, are sent i
^sort (2^ hours Iro;.
rnes' Cascade, l';i^-
ally stage runs frut

:irMC, Reed's Fern

Manchester.

Hotela. Mancheste; House, Elm St. ; City Hotel ; Ht'janis House ; AnioaUeag
House.

This city was settled early in the last century by conflicting colonies of Scotch
Presbyterians and Massachusetts Puritans. For 75 years from its settlement.
Derryheld (^s it was tlicn 'ailed) ha»l neitlier a mini.stor nor a lawyer, nor did it
tjond'anyof its youth to college. The large fisheries at the Falls'nttractcd the
settlers here.

" Frotii the eels thev formed their food in chief.
, And eels were failed the ' Derryflrld Ijcef I

And the marks of eels wcr<' m> plain to triiee.
That the cliildren loolced like evU in the thee."

Manchester (23,009 iiiliabitaiits) is the mo.st populou.s city in New
Hampshire, and is built on a broad ])Iain near the Merrimac River, Elm
Street is its principal thoronglilare, and is 100 ft. wide and over a mile
long. Public sciuares, with ponds enclosed in their limits, have been laid
out in difl'ereiit parts of the city, and among tlie cliurches may bo noticed
the Unitarian, on Beech St., the Catliolio and the Einseo])al on Lowell
St., and the Convent and Church of St. Ann, on Merriniac St. The City
Library contains about 1G,000 volumes, and there are 2 daily and 2 weekly
newspaper.-.. The compact lines of tenement-hoti.ses, near the factories,
were built for the operatives, and are both commodiotis and substantial.
The growth of tliis city has been very rapid, and its river-front is now
lined with great brick factories, a striking view of which is obtained from
the W. bank of the river (in Golfstown).

The water-power of Manchester is funiished by the Blodget Canal,
built in 1816 aroimd the Amoskeag Falls on the Merrimac River. These
Falls have a descent of 47 feet, with rapids above, and in high water they
fttford, even now, a grand siglit. The Amoskeag, Stark, and Langdoii
Mills, and tlie Manchester Print Works are located along tlie canal. Thj
Amoskeag Co. has 6 mills, with 105,000 spindles, employing 3,000 hands;
and 38-40,000 bales of cotton are consumed yearly in the factories of
Ihe city. The Print Works have a cai)ital of .$1,800,000, and employ
8,200 hands and 16 printing-machines, with 3,000 horse-power, printing
20,000,000 yards of cloth yearly. The Manchester Locomotive Worka
•mploy 325 men, and make 50 locomotives yearly, besides much other
heavy work, while the Amoskeag Manufacturing Co. turns out many
•team fire-engines. There are also made here yearly 150,000 axes ; 3,750
Kovelty sewing-machines ; 22,000 barrels of ale; many thousand dozen
4les ; and several hundred tons of paper.

Lake Massabesio (* Massabcsic ILmse, 100 guests, $ 2.50 a day, $ 10.00
a week) is 4 M. E. from the city, on the Candia road. The Portsmouth
Railroad has a station near the hotel. The Lake is 4 M. long, and is
▼wry irregular in outline, having 31 M. of shore, with some beaches of
white sand, while nximerous picturesque islets dot its surface. The Fairy
Grotto luid a curious sulphur cave (Devil's Den) are often visited.
9 M

if I

." >

5ii!i

■ ,' i
n\ «

ii'

'■>;

,**'■

"J' if

) ■ ■«.

» :» •>■

(

i
<

•

11?

:1 ^

4 '*'■

194 Route 29. BOSTON TO MONTREAL.

The Miuicliesljr and N. Weare U. R. runs X. W. 19 M., jmssiiig the stations,
Bedford, Gotl'stown, Tark* r's, Oil Mills, Hayinond, and E. Weare, to N. Weare,
In a busy inaniilactiirinK tnwn. 'I'lif ('oncoid and i'ortsnioutli 11. R. runs from
Mjinrhcster to Toi-tsmouth in IS M. ; and a railroad runs S. E. to l-awrence in
20 M.

After k'ivving Manchester, on the main line, the train passes Martin's
Ferry, and stops at Hc/kset {-^ycr House; Stearns Ilnnse). Just be-
fore reaching the station, the Merriinac is crossed by a bridge TtiJO ft. long.
This village is the seat of cotlon factories and extensive brickyards (Inak-
ing 4,000,000 bricks a year), and derives considerable water-power from
IG ft. falls in the river. In the W. of the town is a lofty and ragged
pile of rgcks called Pinnacle Mt., from whose summit a good view of
the valley is gained. At its base is a deep, clear pond which has no
visible outlet. This town is on the reservation given by Massachusetts to
Passaconoway, the great Sachem of the Pennacooks. His son and suc-
cessor, Woi'.iiolancet, was converted by the a])ostle Eliot, and when King
Philip's ardent eloquence had iiersuaded the Pennacooks to enter the
nnti-Engiish Cor ederation, he resigned the sachemdom, and went to
Canada with his family.

A branch road (over which some throu^di trains pass) crosses the river at
Ilookset Falls, and runs throuj^di Suncook and rcnibroke to (Joncord. i^uncnok
(Suncook House) has a water-power from the falls in the Suncook River, near its
confluence with the Meniniac.

The Suncook Valley R. R. runs from Ilookset N. E. to Pittaftdd (20 M.), passing
the stations, Suncook, Allenstown, Short Falli, Chichester, and Webster's Mills.

The main line passes through the town of Bow, and tlie W. bank of
the river, and enters

Concord.

Hotels. * Eagle Hotel ; Phenix House.

The territory now covered by Concord was granted by Massachusetts l.i 1725,
and occupied soon after, the I'ennacook Indians giving way. It was named Rum-
ford in 1733, and 8 years later was confirmcil as a part of New Hanipshire, to tha
great regret of the settlers, who i>etitioiu'd the king to give the territory back to
Mass. At the breaking out of war with Trance, seven timber forts were Vjuilt,
in which the OG men of the town, with their faniili(>s, lived in state of siege.
Several of the townsmen were killed or captured. For many years a litigation
was carried on between the proprietors of the town of Bow ami the Rumfordites,
the former claiming that the grant from Mass. under whiih Rundnrd was settled
was illegal and void. The N. U. courts decided that the Mass. gr/mt was value-
less, and then the vexed colonists sent two commissioners with an appeal to the
king. He decided in favor of the Rumlord people, and by an older in council
confirmed them in their rights. As late as 1772, negroes were bought and sold
here, and bears and wolves were very trouV)lesonie to the iarniers. The name
Concord was adopted in 17(35, and in 180j the town was made the State capital.

Concord, the capital of the State of New Hampshire, is a handsome
city of 12,241 inhabitants, situated on the W. side of the Merriniac lliver,
equally distant from the ocean and from the Connecticut River. Main
and State Streets nxn parallel with the river, and are broad and pleasant
avenues. The abundance of .shade-trees on these and the cross-streets

BOSTON Tl) MO XT 11 CAT..

ll>t((.' 2'J. 195

ig the Htatiuns,

, to N. Weare,

R. runs from

to I^fiwrence in

isses Martin's

<'). Just be-

e TtjO ft. long.

kyanls (Inak-

r- power from

,y and ragged

good view of

whicli has no

ssachnsetts to

son and suc-

nd when King

to enter the

and went to

les tlie river at

icdrd. i^uncnok

River, near its

(20 M.), passing
cbster's Mills.

e W, bank of

usetts '..\ 1725,
IS nunied Rmn-
npshire, to the
ritory back to
ns were built,
slate of siege,
rs a litigation
[{lunfordites,
nl \va.s settled
u;t was valuc-
ajipeal to tlio
del' in council
iiglit and sold
IS. The n.'inie
Late capital.

a liandsonie
riniae River,
.liver. Main
and pleasant

crcss-strcets

gives the city a pleasant, embowered appearanc ;j. The State Capitol is a

tine structure, fronting acro.ss a small park on Main St. It is built of
Concord granite, and the projecting portico is sustained by eight pairs of
coupled columns. The State Library is in a hall opening off the first
lob>)y, which is richly decorated with the colors of the N. II. regiments in
the Secession War. The lialls of the Senate and House of Representa-
tives are neat and commodious, Tlie building is surmounted by a lofty
and graceful dome, from which a j)leasant view is obtained.

The City Hall and Court JIousc is on Main St., N. of the Capitol, and
is a neat brick building, surmounteil by a round dome.

The State Prison is on State St., and covers 2 acres of ground. It was
established here in 1812, and on May 1, 1S71, Inul 91 convicts. It is
carried on with profit to the State, as the convicts are kept busily at
work, 80 that in the year from May, 1870, -May, 1871, its cost was
§17,328, and its earnings amounted to .S 22,9r>4.

The State A fii/l ion for the Insane has fine buildings in the W. part of
the city. It was founded in 1842, since which it has treated over 3,0i)0
l)atients. Its present capacity is nearly 400 patients, and many are dis-
charged yearly as perfectly cured,

Benj.iniin Tlionii).siin, Count Fluniford, t)orn at Wobuni, Mass., 17"»3, was long a
resident of Concord (tlien calli'd Riiniiord). At the lime of the Revolution
(hein^' then a .s(h()ol-U"a(dier at Riunfon ), he was unjustly suspected of disloyalty
to the American cause, and was annoyed until he toolc refu};e in the i'.ritish lines.
He became an under secretary in I.onl ({trtuain<''s cabinet at I.omlon, and after-
wartls raised the " Kin/s American Dragoons" in New York, with which ho
surjirised .-iiid di->i>erse(l Marion's men (ITSii). Fie was kniudited by Kim,' rieor),'e,
and in 17Sl bccami' chandtcrlain and aid-de-i'aini) to tlie llle tor ot Havaria.
Here he rcor;4anizeil the army, suppressed bej,'^,'ary, made the I'arU at Munich,
and kept the Klectorate neutral durinj^ thr Franco- Austrian War. He was made
State councillor, lieut-{;en., minister of wa.', count (takin;.; tlie title from his (dd
home), and head of the re:^'cni'y. He foun<hd the Royal Institution at London,
married the widow of Lavoisier, and becai '• one of the leailiu^' scientists of
Euro]>e. He diseoveri'd that heat is only a ,.iode of motion, and wrote exten-
sively on liu'ht, heat, and other scientific subjects. He endowed a prot"essorshii>
in Harvard l.'niversity, and ]>asse<l the last 10 years <d" his life in .scientitie ex-
l>eriments. His dan.^hter, the Countess of Rumford. lived in Conccjrd luitil her
<leath, in 1S.')L'. .V line l)roii/,e statue of the Coiuit has been erected in one of the
principal iiromenades of Miuiiidi (near the Hotel des Quatre ISaisons).

Abbot, l>owninf:, k Co.'s coa(di and exii.es.s-wa.^on works at Concord are the
largest in tlie world, and their wagons are sent to Ja]>an, Ausrr.alia. and California,
besides beiu'.; in hij,'h repute throufrhont the Atlantic States. Hill's harnesses
(7'j men in the works) are also sent to all jiarts of the world. The Preseott Melo-
deons have been made here since 1H;',7, and a furniture comiiany uses .-? l,(")0!),00 )
worth of lumber yearly. 7'), 000 mackerel kits and 22,0ii0 lasts are made here
yearly. At Fisherville are lart^e furnitiu-e factories, making,' 12-1'), 000 chamlter-
sets yearly, much of which is sent ti> California. Near the city are inexhaustible
quarries of fine granite, which is sent to the P^astern cities and used in some of
the finest of their i)uV)li(' buildings.

The Blrchdalc .^priinis (small hotel) are near the city, and should be visited for
the sake of the pleasant drive. Most of the roads about Concord are level and
smooth, and afford very interestin<,' rides.

A beautiful ante-colonial tradition of this locality is iireserved by Whittier in
" I'he Hridalof Pennaeook," one of his longest poems. Ityivesaehanning pii-ture
of the Merriiuac valley centuries ago, when

It
i;

lUG Route 29.

HUSTON TO MONTREAL.

■V)

' 'I

■ \

i :

t r.

i <

1 f •

** In their Hlultcred reposu, liKjklnff out from tJu' wood
The l)iirk-hiiil(lrd wl((WHin» nt' IN-nmiciok sfcofj,
There Kliih'd the corn-ilutici', !• enuntil-flre f hone,
And RguhiNt the red war-poxt tin' hatchet wii» thrown.

There the ohl i«mnked In dilcnee their pipen, and the young
I'd the pike iind the vihite pi reh tlieir hiiited lincN fliing ;
There the Ifoy Hiuipcd liiN iiriow, niid there the 8liy iiiiiid
Wove her niuny-hued ImskctH uitd liri^'iil wumpu'm hraid."

t'oncard to t'laremnit. .OO.j, J/.

Concord and narnnnnt, and SuKar River Railroads.

Soon after leaving t'onciird the lino jiasscs \V. t'oncoril and stops atContoooook,
Avlifnce a binncli mad riniH nj) tlic vnllcv of the Cuntimconk Uivcr to Hillshoroiicjh
JlrUhje. (15 M. H. K.). In tiiis villag«( is the. mansion of (Jov. rierec, wliere
rranldin I'irrcc was liorn in 1804. He jiraelised law in Concord for some years,
■Xvas U. H. 8eiiat<)r, 18.'}7-42, and hrii^'.-jicn. in Hie Mexican War. At the Dciuo-
ci at ic Convention of 18.''v2 he was nominated (on the 40tli liailot)fortlie l*residen(!.v,
Jind defeated Oen. Scott, tlie Wliiy candidate, l>y 2>-i electoral votes out of 2'.KJ.
During liis adniinistralion, Arizona was annexed, Kan.sas ami Nebraslsa were
opened to slavery, and the Osteiid Manifesto (to Spain) was issued. Mr. Tieii-e
favored the pro-slavery Jiarty, anti synii)atUized with the Secessionists in the war

of i.s«i-r>.

From Hillsborough Bridge, stagc-t run to tlie thinly -pojjulated towns to the
S. and W.

Beyond Contoocook the main line follows Warner River through the
town of Warner, in which there are four stations.

Station, Bradford (Bradford House, Breshy House, good), a pleasant
village near Bradford Bond, which is '[\ M. long, and contains several
islands. Many summer visitors stay here in the pleasant hotels, and ex-
plore the mountainous district in the vicinity. Lovewell's Mt. and
Sunapee Mt. are near Bradford, and Mt. Kearsarge is but 10 M. distant
(N. E.). 5 M. from tlie village are the ])oi)ular Bradford Springs (good
hotel), near the lake-studded town of Washington. Stages run daily
from Bradford to Ilillshorovgh Bridge (10 M. S.) Between Bradford and
Sunapee, the railroad passes through a cutting (at Newbury Summit)
through 400 ft. of intensely hard, slag-like rock. Thi."- cutting was one
of the most difficult and costly in tlie United States. It shoidd be seen
from the roar of the train.

The line now passes along the S. shore of Sunapee Lake for nearly 2 M.,
with Sunapee Mt. on the 1. Station, Sunapee, N. of which is the village
of Sunapee Harbor (Young's Lake House). Lake Sunapee is a beautiful
sheet of water 9 M. long, and averaging 2^ M. wide. It abounds in fish,
and is surrounded 1)y romantic scenery. Tire adjacent towns have many
sequestered lakelets, and from Suna])ee Mt. is gained a pretty view of the
lake and liill-country, with Mt. Kearsarge to the E.

Station, Neuport (Newport Hou.se; Phenix House), the shire-town of
Sullivan Co., a pleasant village enwalled by hills, and situated on the
Sugar River. Several small mountains are situated in this town, and there
are romantic glens along the Sugar River and its branches. Gunapec
Lake is 6 M. distant, and Croydon Mt., the highest summit in the count}-,

BOSTON TO MONTREAL.

Route 20, 197

f'oiitoopook,
llillshorouffh
five, w}iere
soiiio years,

tlie Dciiio-
Prt'sidciicy,
out of 2'.t"(>.
wiskii were

Mr. Tit rce
^ ill the war

tt'tjs to tlie

rough tlio

a pleasant
lis several
•s, and ex-

Mt. and
M. (liotant
nr/s (good
run daily
dlbrd and

Sunnnit)
; was one
1 be seen

arly2M.,
he village
beautiful
s in fish,
ve many
w of the

town of
I on the
nd there
Sunapee

count V,

is 9 - 10 M. N. in the blenk and granito-strewn highland town of Croydon.
Beyond Newport the line follows the impetuous Sugar Kiver through its
glens and gorges to Claremont (r/r/zt^);;^ Ifnnsr ,■ SulUvdn IIouki). This
town was settled in 17(57 by Connectirut men, and was named for Lord
Clive'a summer mansion. There is much rich alluvial lantl in the town,
and the valley is bounded by a great range of hills, ('larenu)nt village \%
at the rapids on Sugar Iliver, where a fall of I'lO ft. in less than a milo
gives a great wat<'r-jiower. The Monadnoek Mills, the Sugar River Papi-r
Mills, the Clarenjont Manufacturing Co., the C'laremont Linen Co., and
other corporations have their works here. Imnunse (piantities of ragH are
consumed in the manufacture of paper, 500 tons of which are turned out
yearly. Over 3,500,000 yards of cotton cloths, 70,000 yards of doeskins,
70,000 yards of tlannels, are made here yearly. Clareniont village has .>
churches and a tine high schocd, which was cn<lowed by raran Stevens,
the American hot<l-king. Flat Hi)ck, Twist Rack, and Bible Hill are
visited by tho.se who summer here, whib.' from Green Mt. a tine view of
the Conn, valley is enjoyeil. Ascutney is 10 M. N.

2 M. from Claremont the railroad connects with the Vermont Central,
66^ M. from Concord (.see Route 24).

The Boston, Concord, and Montreal and Wliite Mountains R. R. nms N. from
Concord (see Route .10). A raihoad is iK-inK tiuilt to Rochester, 40 M. E. of Con-
cord. From Concord to Porta inoutli, see Route 37.

The train on the Montrea' line now passes on the rails of the Northern
(N. H.) R. R. , and runs N. .V)m Concord on the r. baidi of the Merrimac.
Just after passing the manufacturing village of FitihervUle, at the con-
fluence of the Merrimac and Contoocook Rivers, the train cros.se3 a bndge
to Duston's Island, and thence by another bridge to the shore. On this
island Mrs, Duston, of Haverhill, killed her Indian captors and escaped.
The line now runs along the broad intervales of Ilosca^ocn (two stations).

In this town were born C. G. Greene, wlio founded the " Boston Post " in 18:;i ;
W. P. Fessenden, the eminent and powerful U. S. Senator from Maine (1851 -<;;>) :
and John A. Dix, an ofllcer in the army, 1812-28, U. H. Kenator from New York.
1845-1), Major-Gen. in the army which crushed the R»l)ellion of 18G1-5, and
Minister to France, lsi)7-<). He was nominated as candidate for Gov. of New
York by the Free Soil Democrats in 1848, but was defeated, and in 1872 he wad
elected Governor, which otlice he now occupies.

Stations, Webster Place and Franklin (Webster House ; Franklin
House). 2 M. S. \V. of Franklin village Daniel Webster w^as born, in
1782. The family moved to a new home near Webster Place, ami
he afterwards bought this latter estate, and used to retire there to rest.
Franklin village is near the confluence of the Winnepesaidcee and Pemi-
gewasset Rivers, which fonu the Merrimac. It is a thriving mechani-
cal village, situated in the valley below the railroad, and makes yearly
150,000 pairs of socks, 120,000 yards of flannel, and 600 tons of paper.

198 itoiUf^o.

B08T0N TO MONTREAL.

I V

, !

J, ■

• i

A branch road runs from tliis point \ii> tlio Feniigewn.s.set vuUey 18 M.
to Bristol. Nciir the station at Hill Village (Seriat*' 'louse) Teriwig
Mt. is seen on the 1. liristol (Bristol House) is .. ,,.Ltty village snr-
rounded by Idlls, at thcoonllncnceof the Newfound and the IVinigewasset
Rivers. In tlio last 80 rods of its course the Newfound River falls 100 ft.,
alTording a good water-power. About 2 M. N. of Bristol is the beautiful
Newfound Luke, 7 M. long and 2-3 M. wide. Sugar Loaf Mt. is on the
\V. shore, and (!rosl)y Mt. is on the E. A daily stage runs from Bristol,
on a road which gives frecpient glimpses of the lake, to Uefrron (Union
House), near its N. end.

After leaving Franklin, the main lino passes Webster Pond and tha
blealc and precijjitous range of Ragged Mt. on the r., and stops at the
quiet little village of /i'. Andot'cr (Lake House), near its long, l)rightlake.
The next station is Putter 1*1 'ce (Kearsarge House), named for the magician
Potter. Stages run from this station to Mount Kearsarge (1 M. S.), an
isolated peak, with a rocky summit 2,401 It. above the sea. It affords a
noble * view in a clear day, including, on the \V., Sunapee and Lovewell's
Mt., and the blue Sunapeo Lake, and Croydon and Ascutney, with the
vast range of the Green Mts. clising tin; horizon behind them. In the N.
is Cardigan Mt., with the Pemi'^ewasset Mts. in the distance, and swing-
ing around to the r. are the Franconia and the White Mts., with Lake
Winncpesankco in the N. E. In the nearer E. is the thronged and pros-
perous valley of the Merrimac, while countless villages dot the landscape
on every side. Far up on the sloping side of the Mt. is the Winslow
House, a far-viewing sunnner-hotel.

The Aniorican fri;;iitc " Kears.irye." wliic) k the rebel cruiser " Alabama "

off Cherbourg in Ibi'A, was built on the N. . it, ami named fur tliis muuiitain.

Her captiiin was John A. Winslow, in whose nonor the hotel is nuuied.

Stations, W. Andover, tS. Ikmhvnj, and Grafton (Pleasant Valhiy
House). Grafton is S. of Cardigan Mt., and at Glass Hill great quanti-
ties of mica are mined. The Pinnacle, on this hill, has a sharp precipice
150 ft. high on its N. side. Beyond (Jrafton Centre the line jiasses Lsing-
glass Mt. and Tewksbury Pond on the 1., and stops at Canaan (two small
inns in the town). In the 43 M. between Concord and Grafton the rail-
way has ascended over 800 ft. It now takes a slight down grade, follow-
ing the valley of the Mascomy' to the Conn. River. The pretty village of
Canaan Street lies on the shore of Heart Pond, a lakelet wliich is sur-
rounded by a naturally formed dike of earth. Fi-om Canaan a much-
travelled highway runs N. across Dorchester to W. Rumney ou the B. C.
k M. R. R.

' The line now enters Enfield, and skirts Mascomy Lake (or Enfield
Pond), a beautiful sheet of water 4 M. long, on whose S. W. shore is a
community of Shakers. These industrious people furnish much fine wool

riOSTOX TO MONTREAL.

IlovtfiO. 190

ey 18 M.
Periwig
lago sur-
ij^cwassct
s 100 ft.,
heantiful
is on till)
I Bristol,
in (Union

1 and thj
ps at the
ight lake.

magician
kl. S.), an

afTords a
jOvcweir.s

with the
In the N.
nd swing-
,ith Luke
and pros-
landscape

Winslow

Alabama "
luuuntaia.

it Valley
it quanti-

prccipico
ses Lsing-
two small

the ruil-
e, I'oUow-
I'illage of
ill is sur-

a much-
the B. C.

Enlield
hore is a
fine wool

to the market, also wooden-war" and garden senis. In this town arc the
Granite State and Monnt Culm Hotels, with some qnict and romantic
Bcencry oromid Crystal Lake ami Mount Calm.

Stations, /.'. Lrhnnmi ami Lrh,!ti»i (llamiltf)n House), a manufftctur'nf»
vill.iu"' on an ehv.itnl plain iit-ar tlie Falls on the .Mascomy (Nov-Anglivi'
for the Indian M:isc<ima). F' ..,.ie riponp'. .scythes, Hour, and ma<!hine'»
are made here. Station, M'. Lrhannn (small hotel), the seat of Tilden
LailieV Seminary, whose fhie buildings are seen on a commanding hill to
the 1. Tlie line now crosses tin; Connecticut Hiccr v^ an t>\>vn bridge,
all'i'niiiig gi!;)il views u]» and down stnaiii, and stojis at White Eiver
Junction {Junction House, good). This is an important point in tlio
northern railway systems, the roails wla^h converge here being the
Northern (N. 11.) II. U., the southern and central divisions of the Ver-
mont Central U. R., and the Connecticut and rassumi)sicand Massawippi
Vallev U. H. By the nearest routes this Junction is distant from iJoston
14*2 M.; from New York, 2'iO M. ; from Concord, (l!* M. ; from Spring-
field. T24 M.; from Burlington, Vt., 104 M. ; from Mcmtreal, 184 M.;
from Quebec, 20t) M. (These figures are from the Oflicial Guide, pub-
lished at I'hiladdphia. Of the .seven other books which allude to the
■subject no two agree. )

Tliere is a good restaurant in the station, and trains usually stop long
enough for a dinner to bo obtained. The train jtasses now on to the rails
of the Vermont Central R. R., which runs through a pleasant rural dis-
trict, and achieves the passage of the Green Mts. by some fine engineer-
ing works. . lie i)ictures(pie White River is followed for 25 M. Stations,
Wldte liirrr Villfitje (on the r.) and WoodatocL; whence a daily stage
runs to Bridgewater, 15 iM. S. K., the road passing up the valley of the
Otla Qucchce River. Woodstock village (Eagle Hotel), the shire town of
Windsor Co., is on this road, 10 M. from the railway, and is a beautiful
rural hamlet with an elm-adorned park in the valley of the Otta Quecheo.
From Mt. Tom (near the village) a pleasing view is obtained down the
long valley of the river. The village has two weekly journals, a bank,
and a large country trade, besides some manufactures.

Geor;,'p P. Marsh. U. 8. Minister to Turkey, 13J0-53, ami to Italy, 1861-73,
was liorn here iii lilOl. lie is distinj^uisheil as a i)hilolugist, in coniiection with
the Nur.se lan^^uagf. Ilirain Puwers was honi lieie in 18Uf>. lie was a fanner's
son, iind after many vicissitudes lie learnct' the art of inndelling in plaster, and
opened a studio in Flori'iioc about 18;17. Suici! tinni lie has executed some of tlie
finest sculptures of modern times. His " f]ve " was hi,i,'lily commeudeil by
Thorwaldsen, and the "Greek Slave" was a iiob'.e work, of which copies have
been multiplied. "II Penseroso," "California," "Americia," "Proserpine,"
and numerous other reiiuwued works, including portrait-statues, have given him
the highest rank among sculptui's.

Beyond Woodstock station the line crosses the crystal-clear river, and
passes through the pretty scenery about W. Hartford to Sharon station.

The village is si.'en high up on the opposite shore.

■"tgj

<■ > ■ .

II ■ i o

Ki^i

i ,

■ ■ ,

f ''

I. .* •*

1 ^ .■

: 1 s .

■1 ,1

' » *'

1 ■

y '

200 Rmite20.

HOSTON TO MONTREAL.

In 1805, Joseph Smith, the founder of Monnonism, was born at Sharon. In
1830 he published (at Palmj-ra, N. Y.) the Book of Mormon, which he claimed to
have translated from metallii- plate-s found by him while under the guidance of
angels. Ho went West with his converts, and founded Nativoo, in Illinois, where
he exercised despotic nuthority until 1S44, when the wrath of the "Gentiles" in
the neighboring towns was amused by his un.just acts. He was imprisoned at
i'arthage, and soon after the jail was stormed by a nioh, au<i lie was killcil. IJrig-
ham Young succeeded liim as " L*rcsi(i( nt of the Churcli," and still maintains the
litlc. (Rev. Holomon Hj^.tldiug, of Conn., wrote a romance, "The Maiinsrript
Found " (in ISO',)). He allowed Si<incy Rigdon and others to rcail his MS., wliich
was soon after stolen from his widow, anci tliose who had read the romance after-
ward declared tiiai tiie Mormon Bible was but a corrupt vei-sion of it. Rigdon
became a prominent Mormon).

Station, S. Roijalton (S. Royaltoii House, good), with the station on

one side of its main square, on which front the hotel, cliurch, and stores.

The river is now crossed by a bridge GOO ft. long, and the train stops at

Royalton, wheie occurred, in October, 1780, tlie Last Indian attack on

New England. The attack was maiie hy 210 Indians, who i)lnndered and

burnt the village (and also Sharon), killing and capturing 27 of its

people.

Dnilystages N. to r/ie^.s-m (Orange Co. House), the shire-town of Orange CVmnty,
passing through Tnnbridge (13 M.). Also N. W, through V.. Bethel and E. Ran-
dolph, to E. Brookticld (1 i M.).

Station, Bethel (Bethel House), a busy inainifacturing village, in a glen
among liigh hills. Daily stages to Barnard (Silver Lake House), 8 M.
distant, and to Wooddock. Also to Stnckbridge (10 M.), Pittsfield (13
M.), Rochester (17 M.), and Hancock, four thinly populated towns (with
small inns), under the shadow of the Green Mts.

Station, Randolph (Cott.^ge House ; Chad wick House), a busy village
on the third branch of White River, which the railroad follows from
Bethel to Roxbury. Stages run to Chelsea, Bronkjicld, and Randoljjh
Centre (3 M. N. E.). The country now groAvs wilder and more thinly
inhabited. Station, Braintree, a rude village surrounded by rugged hills.
To the W. is Granville, with a road crossing the mountain-pass, 2,340 ft.
above the sea. At Roxbury station (Summit House), the train reaches
the summit of the pass, 1,000 ft. above the sea. Near the village are
inexhaustible quarries of the best verd-antique marble. Crossing a
bridge 400 ft. long and 70 ft. high, the train passes on to Northjield
(Northfield House), in a populous town which has several quarries of
dark blue slate. Tlie so-called Norwich University (Vt. Military Insti-
tute) is situat'id here, in large buildings on a hill to the r. of the track.

10 M. from Northfield is Muntpelier Jiniction, whence a short branch
road diverges to Montpelier (Pavilion Hotel, opposite the station, a good
house and moderai;e charges ; Bishop's Hotel). Montpelier, the capital
of the State of Vermont, is a beautiful village of about 3,000 inhabi-
tants. K is situated on a plain near the Winooski River, and is sur
rounded })y a highly cultivated hill-country. 10 M. to the S. W. is the

5'.

BOSTON TO MONTREAL

Route 20. 201

Sharon. In
B claimed to
guidance of
inois, where
.if utiles" in
ij)risonpd at
illcil. 15rig-
aiiitains tlie
M.'imiM'ript
.MS. wliich
nance after-
it. Iligdon

station on
ind stores.
Xn stops at

attack on
iidered and

27 of its

nge County,
md E. Ran-

), in a glen

)use), 8 M.

tsfield (13

)wns (with

usy village
lows from
RandoljjJi
ore thinly
gged hills.
, 2,340 It.
in reaches
illage are
'rossing a
Norihjield
Harries of
;ary Insti-
e track,
rt branch
)n, a good
le capital
)0 inhabi-
id is snr
W. is the

}

geographical centre of the State. The village is compactly bnilt, and

has 2 banks, 3 insurance cos. (the Vt. Mutual has § 37,O00,0tiU of

risks), 4 weekly newspapers, and 7 churches, one of wliicli is a noble

piece of archite'^turc. There are several flour-mills, lumber-mills, and

tanneries, besides which the village has an extensive country trade.

The * State HoURe is a noble edifice of light-colored granite, on the

site of the old State House, which was burnt in IS/i/. It stands on a

slight eminence approached from a verdant Common by granite steps in

torraci!S. The portico is supported V)y six massive fluted Doric columns,

and under it stands a fine statue in Vermont marble of Vermont's hero,

Ethan Allen. It was executed by Larkin G. Mead, of Brattleboro' (now

living iii Italy).

Ethan Allen was bom at Litchtield, Conn., in 1737. He moved to Vermont
in 1 700, and was outlawed liy New Vori< for his bold and deli.int ai'tioii in the
?X)rder fend-;. In 177') he took Fort Tieonderoga from the IJritish. Later in the
year he attacked Montreal with 110 men, and was captured, with his whole com-
mand. He was confined in Pendennis Castle, in Kngland, ftn- a shor* time, but
was exchange<l in 177S, and took eonnnand of the Vermont militia. A royal de
cree of 17(34 had constituted the Connecticut River the E. lioumhiry of New
York (N. of Mass.), and Mass. and N. H. also claimed i)arts of its territory. But a
convention at Westminster, in 1777, declared Vermont a free State. The Conti-
nental Congress would not ratify this voice of the people, and all its troops were
withdrawn from the territory. Vermont, tlius left ah)nc, was unable to resist at-
tacks from the British in the N., and Aden skilfully conducted feignecJ negotia-
tions with the royal generals, looking towards annexation to Canada, and secur-
ing neutrality for his State. It was only in 1701, after 20 years of controversy,
that Vermont was adnutted into the Union, — to otlset Kentucky. Afti^r ajt
eventful life, Ethan Allen died at Burlington in 1789.

Under the portico of the State House are kept two cannon taken from
Breyman's Hessians at the battle of Bennington (1777), after a desperate
struggle, 'llie British got them back when (}cn. Hull surrenilered the
Army of the N. W. at Detroit (August, 1812), and tiiey were again taken
by the Americans during the Canada campaign. They were sent to
Washington, and afterwards Avere presented by Congress to the State of
Vermont. The main building of the State lfou.se is 72 ft. long, and each
of the wings is ,o^ ft., nuiking a total length of 176 ft. The dom.e is
124 ft. high, and is surmounted by a gr-icel'ul statue of Cores, the goddess
of agriculture. The marble-paved lower floor is devoted to committee-
rooms, and a small collection of historical and mineral curiosities. In
large niches at the ends of the neat lobby on the second floor are pre-
served the battle-flags and pennons of the Vermont regiments in the
Secession War. Wliat with storm, forest-marcli, and many battles, these
veteran standards have lost their pristine brightness and wholeness, and
with the names of the battles in which tlicy were boriie written on them
in golden letters, they are carefully kept behind plate-glass. Tlie gallery
of the Senate is entered from the third floor. The halls of the Senate and
House are well worth visiting, being graceful in fonn and well ornamented.
A substantial stone bridge crosses the Winooski River at Montpelier, and

202 Ji(^iiic 29.

BOSTON TO MONTREAL.

;';

1 :

■ ■

!■

,•

it ''

f! '

■•(

if!

20
R

the country about the village aftbrds many pleasant objective points for
a summer day's ride or ramble. . , , / , . .

Daily stages to Worrester, 7 M. N. (Worcester House), aii<l tri-weekly to Elmore,

M. is^ Daily sta;,'(;.s to llardv:u:k, 20 M. N. E., on tiii' rortland and Ugdensbutg

IV. H., passiii,^ tliiDU^'li Ciilnis (12 M. ; Moscow It(iiisc) and Woodhur}!, tliiiily

Eoi>ulat('d towns witli scores of small lakes ahonndin^' in trout and other lisii.
»aily stages to Marshlicld, 15 M. N. JO., on the Great Falls of Uie Winooski, where
that stream falls 500 ft. in ;iO rods. Also to I'ldivjii'ld, M. E. (Plainflcld Honse),
with a inedicdnal .spring (Spring Hoiise) of some repute ; to Has/iijif/^on (Washing-
ton ilonse, Lake House), lo M. S. E. ; to Uraiuje, 13 M. 8. E. ; to ll'Uliainstuwn,
and to JJarre (liarre House), M. .S. E.

Beyond Montpelier' Junction the main line passes on to Middlesex
(Washington House), near wliicli (on llie 1.) the Winooski River pusses
through the Middlesex Narrows, a cutting in the rock, J50 ft. deei),,GO It.
wide, and 1,3()U It. long, which has been worn by the action of the water.
Stages run S. to Mvretown (7 M. ), Waitsficld (12 M. ), and Warren. Beyond
Middlesex the train reaches Waterbury (* Waterbury House), a highland
town abounding in pleasant rambles and rides, wilh Ireiiuent glimpses of
Camel's Hump (in the S. W.). Camel's II amp Mi. is 8 M. distant, and
Ihjlton Falls are but 3 M. to the N. W., and both are approached by
good roads. N. E. of Waterbury, 10 M. (semi-daily stage in summer) is
the rich farming town of Stow (* Mansfield House, opened in 18G.1,
•iccommodates 3 - 400 guests, at .$ 3.50 a day ; considerable reductions for
a long stay. 100 horses are kept in the stables). Stow, " the Saratoga
of Vei-mont," is charmingly situated in a fpdet valley in full sight of lofty
mountains, and when filled with summer guests it presents a lively ap-
pearance. '* Stow is unrivalled in the beauty, picturesrpieness, and luxu-
riant magnificence of its mountain scenery." From Sunset Hill, near the
hotel, a line view of the village is obtained, and .ahso of Mt. Mansfield
and Camel's Hump. 3-4 M. N. E. of Stow, on the slope of Worcester Mt .,
are the Mo.'is Ulcn Falls, in a narrow, rock-walled ravine which contains
three picture.sque basins. This bit of Tyrolese scenery has been greatly
danuvg(!d by the erection of a saw-mill, for whose benefit the falls aio
dammed above. The Smugglers' Notch is a romantic i»ass between the Nose
Peak of Mt. Mansfield and Sterling Mt. (3,500 ft. higli). It is 9 M. irom
Stow, and a good road leads to a small hotel tii the Notch, near tlie great
spring which is the source of the Waterbury River. A horse-path beyond
the hotel leads in ^^ M. to Jjerton's Rock, a boulder weighing about 111)
tons, which fell from the abrupt clifls that tower on each side to t!ie
height of 1,000 ft. A little way beyond, the path begins to descend to
the plains of Cambridge. This pass was used during the War of 1812 for
smuggling goods l)etween Central Vermont and Canada. A few miles N.
is Daniel's Notch^ between Sterling Mt. and the lofty White Face. Bing-
ham's Falls, 5 M. from Stow, Morrisville Falls, 8 M., West Hill, 2 II.,
and GoM Brook, 3 M., are often visited.

BOSTON TO MONTREAL.

Route 20. 203

points for

ly to Elmore,

I Ugdenshutx
'hitri/, tliinly
d oilier lisli.
looski, wlicrc
field House),
on (WasliiiiK-
"UliaiiLiitvKii,

I Middlesex
liver passi's

f tlic water.
en. Beyond
, a higlJaiul
?;limpses of
distant, r.nd
proached by
summer) is
3d in ]SG.>,
luctions for
le Saratoga
ight of loft y
a lively ap-
s, and hixu-
ill, near the
t. Man.sfield
ircesterMt.,
ch contains
leen greally
lie falls aro
ien the Nosw
) 9 M. iroiii
ir the great
jath beyond
: al)0ut r.
side to t!ie
descend to
of 1812 for
!vv miles N.
'ace. Biiig-
Ilill, 2 M.,

Mount Mansfield.

This is the loftiest of the Green Mts., and its highest peak is 4,348 ft.
ftbove the sea. As seen from above Stow it presents the appearance of
the profile of a human face, the S. peak l)eing the forehead, the middle
peak the nose, and the N. peak the chin.

After leaving Stow, the highway is followed for 5 M., and then a
mountain road turns to the 1., ascen<liiig through the forest, 2.\ M., to tlie
Half- Way House, from wliich a pretty valley view is gained. Hero
begins the long and arduous ascent to tlie Summit House. The forest
dwindles away until tlie path reaches the Nose, whence a view is given
into the profound depths of the Smugglers' Notch. The Summit House
is a commodious hotel (for 100 guests ; -S 3.50 a day) situated at the base
of the Nose.! which is climbed l)y a steep path on its W. slope (2 -.300 ft.
high). On the E. side of this peak is the rock-prolile called the "Old
Man of the Mt." About 2 M. of steady, though not fatiguing ascent
leads from the house to the Chin, passing over ledges marked by long
scratches once received from rocks fixed in drifting icebergs, which passed
over tiie silent waves of some shoreless primeval sea. The Chin is 13 10 ft.
higher than the Nose, and is 3,800 ft. above Stow, and 4,348 ft. above
the sea. This peak offers a more extensive nortliern view than that from
tha Nose (with an impressive view down the Notch), and is easily visited,
although parties who go out to it usually stop over night at the Summit
House, thereby gaining the superb effects of sunset and sunrise.

The * * view from tlr; Nose is very similar to that from the Chin, aii<l is, perhaps,
the noblest (thoii<,'li not the most extensive) in New I•'ll^land. i)n the S. are seen
Camera Hum]) (lo M.) and ivillin;,'ton Teak ((iO M.), with a ^reat nuuil)er of name-
less i)eaks and ridges of tin; Cireen Mts. The j;reat Luke Cliamplain tills the
horizon from 8. W. to N. W., l)einf? visible tiirough the {greater ])art of its extent,
with the ancient blue Adirondacks liftfng their clond-like summits beyond. 'J'lie
apparently Jevel lowhunls of the Chanijtlaiii valley are spread out like a map
below, dotti'il with numerous white villages (beyond which is l^urlington), and
crossed by many streams. The great grazing district of the Lamoille valley
stretehes away to the X. W. and glimi»ses of tlie sjiarkling rivers, the Lamoille
and the Winooski, are canglit through the forests and foot-liills of the Green Mis.
Far in the N. is lie St. Lawrence! River, with its valley dotted with Norman
villages, and on the N. W., with a i)owerful glass and on a clear day, it is said lint
visitf)rs have .seen .Mount Royal and the shining tin roofs of Montreal. E. of N.,
Jay Peak and Owl's Head Mts. are seen, the hitter risuig from Lake Mern-
phrema.jog, while still fartlier to the L. are Hor and Ainianancu, the mountains
about Willonghliy Lake. Farther to the r. are the Percy I'eaks, and a little S. of
E. the Francouia and White Mts. are seen low-lying on the horizon, (JO M.
distant. , '

M. beyond Waterbury, on the raain line, is Ridlei/s Station (Green
Mt. House) whence carriages run to Camel's Hump, M. S. The road
has been built 3 M. up the mountain, and the remainder of the ascent is
made on foot or horseback. A small house for shelter and refreshment.s
is kept open all summer, 1 M. from the sum nut. TJje mountain is 4,083
ft. high, and from its isolated position commands an extensive view, whose

. " f

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204 Route 20.

BOSTON TO MONTREAL.

general features are much like tl ose of he prospect from Mt. Mansliel.l.
The name Camel s IIui.ip is derived from a supposed resemblance of the
outline of the mountain to that of the back of a camel.

Near Ridley's, and seen from the track (to the N.), are the JioUnn Falls,
amid some wild rock-sccncry in a deep ravine nearly 4,000 ft. below llie
l^eak of Mt. Mansfield. The line now follows the picturcsfjue valley of
the Winoc^ski to Jiniesrille, whence stages run to Hineslmrg, Starksboio,
and the rugged towns of Huntington (under Camel's Huni]^) and Under-
hill (under Mt. Mansfield). Station, Jlichmond (Richmond House), a
bright village in the widenings of the Winooski valley, with an extensive
trade in butter and cheese. The mountain-ravines open out here on the
Champlain valley, and the country becomes more thickly settled. A
bridge, 000 ft. long, over the Winooski, is now passed, and the train
enters the farming town of WilUston. For several miles, running N. W.
from this station, fine views are afforded from the train, — the Green Mts.
with their two loftiest peaks looming up })oldly on tlie r., while the distant
Adirondacks are seen on the 1. Essex Junction is soon reached, whence
trains rim to Burlington (see Route 26) in 8 M., passing the remarkable
gorges on the Winooski River.

5 M. N. of Essex is Colchester, to the W. of which is a tall-spired
village (Mallet's Bay Hotel), and still farther W. is Mallet's Bay, which is
nearly land-locked, has numerous islets, and affords good bass and pilco
fishing. Frequent views of Lake Champlain, the Adirondacks, and the
Green Mts. are obtained from the cars as they i)ass N. to Milton (three
iiu;s in the town). This village is near the Great Falls of the Lamoille,
7 M. from the river's mouth. The river descends here 150 ft. in 800 ft.,
and affords a water-power for the Milton lumber-mills. The train crosses
the Lamoille River on a high bridge 450 ft. long, and utops at the station,
Georgia arid Fairfax. Georgia village (Franklin House), is 3^ M. from
the station, and Fairfax (Fairfax House) is 4 M. E. cf the station, to
which it has a tri-daily stage. A small Baptist Theological School is
located at Fairfax. ' .

St. Albans (* \Veldon House, first-class; American House; Tremmit
House) is a pretty village of about G,000 inhabitants, situated on an ele-
vated plain 3 M. from Lake Champlain. Maiti Street is the princij'al
thoroughfare, and has several good commercial buildings. There is a
neat park of 4 acres in the centre of the village, on whose sides are the
hotels, the Fraidvlin County buildings, the High School, and seveial
churches, the best of which is a Norman-towered Episcopal Church Iniilt
of red sandstone. Back of this is the large Catholic Church and the
Convent of Notre Dame. The offices of the Vermont Central R. R.
occupy the spacious and in^.posing building at the station. In tliis
vicinity are the immense repair aaid car-shops of the Vermont Centml.

BOSTON TO MONTREAL.

Route 29. 205

Clmrcli Iniilt

occii])} iiig over half a mile of buildings, aiul employing several hiuulrtvl
skillul workuieii. These works are tlie largest of the kind in New
llnghuid, ami have turned out many locomotives and cars. The village
luis 3 banks, 2 weeklies and a daily newspaper (besides a weekly
Frencli paper), and 5 churches. Tuesday is its market day, when the
farmers from Franklin Co. congregate in the streets, and great quantities
of dairy products are sold. The quotations of butter and cheese at St.
Albans atfrct the market throughout the Eastcni States, and vast quanti-
ties of these products are shipped in ice-cars to the N. Atlantic cities
(mostly to Boston). Between 1850 and lSt)5 St. Albans sent away
33,003,044 pounds of butter, and lt),G28,0S)7 pounds of cheese, having a
value of nearly .$12,000,000. N. of St. Albans are (piarries of calico-
stone and variegated marble, while a good sulphur-spring (appertaining
to the Weldon House) is in the environs,

"St. Albans is a place in the midst of greater variety of scenic beauty
than any other that I remember in America." (Beechkr.) Bellevuc Hill,
2 M. S. W. from the station, and Aldis Hill, 1 M. N. E. of the village,
lire easy of ascent, and command lovely views. * Bellevue is 1,300 ft.
al>ove the lake, and about 900 ft, above the village. It overlooks the vil-
lage and the rich plains of Franklin Co., strewn with villages, while a
broad expanse of Lake Champlain is spread out in the W., the view ex-
tending over Grand Isle to the New York shore. In the S. W. the
Alirondacks rise, "not in chains or single peaks, bui, in vast broods, a
promiscuous multitude of forest-clothed mountains. In the N. is scooped
out, in mighty lines, the valbiy of St. Lawrence ; and in clear days, tJie
eye may spy the faint glimmer of Montreal." (H. W Beecheu.) The
Missisquoi valley is near, in the N., and Jay Peak lies to the E., from
w!uch the great line of the Green Mts. stretches away to the S., and
Mount Mansfield is plainly visible. To the S. is the fertile Lamoille
valley, running through Fairfax and Milton. Aldis Hill is only 500 ft.
liigh, and is easily ascended. Its view, though less extensive than that
.from Bellevue, is of rare beauty. ,,,,,,

:{ M. W. of the village is St. AVwns Bay (Lake View House), a small shore
liiimlet, from wliicli steaniorR run across the Lake to Plnttsburg, starting early in
the morning, 4 times weekly. (Fare, § 1.00.)

Stages run E. to Fairjhld (7 M.) and Ualerafield (10 M.).

St. Albans was the scene of great excitement duriui,' tl)e Canadian rebellion in
1S;57, and several raiding parties (of refugees) crossed tiie border from tills vicinity.
la October, 1804, several strangers boarded at the hoti'ls for a few days, and
learned the habits of tlie iieople. When the bells rang at :? o'clock, on the lV)th
of Oct., these men entered the banks in parties, and rolibed them of their fund.>*,
while others of the band arrested every citizen on the street. The robbers were
22 in number, dressed in plain clothing and armed with revolvers, and, having
setHired what money they could, they stole a number of horses and tied, closely
pursued by the citizens. During the tiring which took i)la(.'e in the streets, one
citizen was kilh il and several wounded. The plundering party (which was com-
posed of escaped rclx'l prisoners) reached Canada with .'ij 208,000 in money, !< 80,000
of whicli was returned to the banks by the British govennnent. In June, 1S(KJ,

i i i'

;

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i ,'
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11 f <

ih:-

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200 A'<'*/<t; ^.'A

BOSTON TO MONTKKAL.

1,200 Fenians from the cities of the coast niniohed from this place into Canada,
and iiliindercd a villa^'o. The provisions of this jiarty sooii {jave out, and they
returned to St. Alhans, when; tiicy were disarmed Ity 1,000 U. S. troops, wiio
were encamped on the village Parir. for 2 weeks. , j,

St. Albans to Eichford.

The East Division of the Vermont Centra' R. R. runs N. E. to Jiich-
ford in 1^ - 2 hours. Near .he station Sheldon Springs (about 10 M.
out) aie several mineral springs. The famous Missisqiwi Sprinr/ {* Mis-
Risquoi Hotel) is alkaline in character, and has no distinctive taste, but
has proved very efficacious in cutaneous diseases. Within the space of
an acre, near the palatial hotel, are 13 mineral sjtrings, of varying prop-
erties, arising through -a vein of fine fuller's earth. One of these springs
is cathartic, and is used in cases of dysjjcpsia and liver complaints, in
the year 1868, 354,000 (piart bottles of Missisriuoi water were sent away,
and in 4 months of the same year 40,000 bottles were sent from the Ver-
mont Spring. Dunton's Hill is a favorite resort, 2 M. from the Missi.squni
House, the Sheldon Spring is 1 M. S, \V., and the Central Spring (in
Sheldon village) is 2 - 3 M. to the E.

Tlie Vermont Sprimj waters are mostly bottled and sent away, for the
cure of diseases of the skin, cancer, &c. It is aboiit 2 M. from the Mis-
sisquoi, and there are numerous other mineral springs, differing hi their
properties, about the village. The Continental, Central, and Excelsior
are among the most noted, while Sheldon Spring, near the Missisquoi
Falls, has long been visited. The * Congress Hall Hotel, located near
the latter spring, is a large and first-class house. The water flows at the
rate of 14,000 gallons a day, and contains a large amount of carbonate of
soda with potash. " It is a very unusual alkaline, saline water, con-
taining more silicic acid in solution than any on record. The presence of
so much crenic acid is also remarkable, and, with the iron and magnesia,
adds to the valuable constituents." (Du. Hayks.) The hot and cold
baths (in convenient bath-houses) work wonderful cures in cases of rlu-u-
matism, erysipelas and skin diseases, cancers and chroiuc ailments. From
Dunton's Hill (1 M. from Congress Hall) a vast panoramic view of tlie
Green Mts. is obtained, while the silver waters of Lake Champlain, in the
\V., are overlooked by the blue A(l''onacks. Considerable tracts of
Lower Canada are included in this vit r, which is terminated on the N.
by the spires of Montreal. The Missisquoi River fulls 119 ft. near Shel-
don Spring. At Sheldon village (Central House), 2 ]\I. E., there are
many hotels and boarding-houses. Here is the Central Spring, wliich,
besides carbonates of lime, magnesia, iron, soda, and potassa, and sulphate
of lime, contains the valuable element of phosphoric acid. It cures
cutaneous and pulmonary affections, dyspepsia, rlieumatism, &c.

The Portland and Ogdensburg R. R. will cross the Missisquoi Valley
R. R. at Sheldon.

nosrox to Montreal.

Route 2U. 207

into Canada,
)ut, and they
, troops, who

E. to Rich-
^hout 10 M.
ring (* Mis-
'e taste, but
he space of
vrying prop-
hesf spriiif^s
iplaints. In
} sent away,
om the Ver-
le Missisquni
l1 Spring (in

xway, for the
oni the Mis-
ring hi their
md Excelsior
e Missisquoi
located near
flows at the
carbonate of
water, con-
presence of
id magnesia,
lot and cold
vses of rheu-
lents. From
view of llie
iplain, in the
le tracts of
I on tlie N.
near Shel-
E., there are
ring, wluch,
and sulphate
It cures
&c.
;quoi Valley

Tlie line follows the ridi valley through several funning and dairy
towns, passing the stations, hi. Frdu/vlin, Enoshurg Falls, Fn^shurg, nud
E. Berkshire, io Bichford (American IJouse), a thinly populated town,
on whose S. E. corner Jay Peak rises to an altitude of over 4,000 ft.

A railroad is to be bnilt from Richford N. W. through St. Amiand. Dunham,
and Notre Dame des An.cies, to W. Farnhani, in the Province of Queber*, and on
the N. Division of the Vermont Central U. R.

Soon after leaving St. Albans, the main line passes Swunton Junction,
where a railroad diverges to Rouse's Point and Ogdensburg.

This line passes through Swanton (Central House), a pretty village with a
Soldiers' MonunK'ut on its Green, consisting of a statue (in Vermont maiblt') , f
the (loddcss of Libei-ty on a poilestal of gray Isle La Mutte marble. Swantou
wa:5 settled by the Freneh in IT^'O, but they were crowded out within a half-ien-
tury. Much marble, black, white, and red variegated, is ([uarried in this town.
After crossing Missisquoi Bay on a trestle-bridge, the train stops at Alburgli
Hitriues (* Alhn I (jh .Sj)ring!i House), whose mineral waters are much used lor
cutaneous complaints. The drives on the lalce sliore are very jileasant, and fish-
ing and boating are favorite summer anuisements. The i>eniusula of AHuu'gii was
granted by the King of France, as a feudal seigniory, io Councillor FoiicaulL, un-
der whose onlers it was settled in 17:51. It was occupit'd liy loyalist refugeijs late
in the Revolutionary Era, and in ISiST was one of the Irontier towns from which
tiie insurgents in the " Patriot War" made their raids into Canada.

Passing the stations, Alburgh ami W. Alburgh, the line crosses Lake Champlain
at its N. end on a long tn stle-bridge. Fort Mdiitijomcvy is seen on the r., com-
manding the Richelieu River. After the works on tliis fort had gone on for some
time, it was discovered to be in British territory, but a generous change of boun-
dary gave the land to the United States, ami the work was completed. On the 1.
hh La Mottv. may be seen far down the lake.

Rouse's Point (New York) is now reached. From this point the Hue runs
W. through the Chateaugay Woods, passing Malone and Potsdam, to Ogdensburg,
400 M. from Boston and 141 M. from St. Albans. Another railroad runs N. on
the 1. bank of the Richelieu River, to St. Jolui's (2.3 M.). The gr.'at Lake Cham-
plain steamers leave Rouse's Point twice daily (in summer) lor Whitehall.

After passing Swanton Junction and E. Swanton, the train on the main
line stopa at Highgate Springs (* Franklin House). The liotcl is on one
side of the track, and the s})ring-honse on the other. The spring is alka-
line, containing chloride of sodium, carbonate of soda, and sulphate of
soda. E. of the Springs is the broad and beautiful Missisquoi Bay (Missi
Kisco— much water-fowl), Avhich is nearly land-locked, and abounds in
fish. The Franklin House accommodates IGO guests, at $3.00 a day.
2-3 M. S. E. is a considerable village at Highgate Falls, on the Missis-
quoi Paver. Tlie alkaline Cliamplain Spring is located here (Chanqilain
House, Green Mt. House, both fronting on the village park), and is con-
sidered a specific for dyspepsia, cutaneous eruptions, cancer, and con-
.suniption. Alburgh Springs on the W. and Missis(iuoi Springs on the S.
E., are within easy distance of Highgate. Highgate was the birthplace

208 nimk Jif.

HUSTON TU MUNTUEAL.

I ■'

I :

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I) ^

Ir -■

1 1

) ',■

'■i

{■' K

of Jolin G. Saxo, wliose i»ot'in.s of hiuiior uiid itatlioM are widtly known
and read.

About 3 M. l)oyon<l Iliglij^atc, tlio train leaves tlie United States, and
enters Mi.ssis(|uoi f'otmty, in tlib Anglo-Canadian Province of Quebec.
Stations, St. Armnnd, Moore's, and Stniihridt/r, on the jilains of tlie Rich-
elieu River. Stanbridge is a neat village, from which stages run to E.
Shmbridgo (3 M.) and Bradford. As the line ])asscs farther out on tlic
jilains, the great, isolated mountains of Itoin/rmon . and llchvil are seen on
the r. On Behvil the liishop of Nancy had an immense cross erected in
1843, whicli was visible for many leagues. It was demolished Ijy a storm
in 1847. Stations, Dos Jtiriercs, St. Alexandre, beyond which the train
passes the junction of the Stanstead, Slielford, and Chanddy Railroad,
running from St. Johns E. to Waterloo 43 M. Stages from Waterloo to
Lake -d('m])lir('magog in 20 M. The line imw crosses the Richelieu River
to St. Johns, a quaint, old-fashioned, Norman-French village near the
head of the Cii-inibly Rnpids. '^I'hc town is situated on a level plain, and
is connected with the suburb of St. yl^//a;i«.sc by i. fine bridge over the
Richelieu. There is good fishing by boat near St. Johns, and the few visi-
tors who stop at this (juiet old town usually ride to Chambly, a pleasant
village near the confhience of the Rivhelieu and Montreal Rivers. It is
12 M. N. of St. Johns by tlie river-ioad, and is on a lake-like ex})ansion
of the river, calleil ('!lianil)ly Basin. The Richelieu Hows toward the N,
E. almost parallel with the St. Lawrence which it joins at Lake St. Peter,
70 M. distant.

Clianibly Wiis foitiliml In' the Frencli in 1711. and in '[lilt it had a stntng stono
fort built l>y tlic liritisli, witii massive towers at its angles. I^arge suit;i;.e3 were
stored hero ; hut the eoiiiiiianile.' was so careless that the fort was easily taken by
the Aiiioricans in Octobej-, 177'>. It was abandoned on the advance of liiirgoyne,
having first been stripiJed of its stores, and ha.« since served (initil the English
military evacuation of Canada) as an exercising-ground for the Montreal garrison.
In the cryjtt of the Catholic ("huich is buried I)e Salaberry, Seigneur of Chambly.
who eonnnandetl tin; Canadians in the battle of Chateangay (War of 1S12), when
a large invading force of Auicricans was resisted with such valor and success that
Dfc Salaberrv ever after bore the title of "the Canadian Leonidas." 12 M. noni
Chambly is 'iMn-il Mf.

Other excursions from St. Jo'..ns are to Scotch Mf. (6 M. over a good road), which
commands a fine view of the Green Mts. and the border Townships ; and to the
Chambly Rapidft on the Richelieu.

The Manjuis of Montcalm built a fort at St. Johns, which was .strengthened by
Gov. Carletim. Benedict AriioM's American fleet was repulsed in an attack in
1775, but tlie fort was besieged by (ien. Montgomery in Septenil)er of the same
year, and, after six weeks of blockades and caimonade, it surrendered, with (100
British regulars and 4S heavy launon. The American garrison evacuated the post
on the advance of Cien. Burgoyne.

At St. Johns the train moves on to the rails of the Grand Trunk Rail-
way (Montreal and Rouse's Point Division), and i^asses through the fair
and fertile i)lains of the Parish of La Prairie to St. Lambert, opposite
Montreal. The St. Lawrence River is crossed by the wonderful * Victoria
Bridge, and the train stops at Montreal (see Route 54).

WEIHS.

Jioute 30. 209

fly known

tates, nnd
f Qufbcr.
■ the Rirli-
run to E.
ut on tilt'
irc seen on
erectt'd in
ty a storm
the train
Railroad,
atorloo to
lien River
! near the
plain, and
i over the
16 few visi-
a pleasant
el's. It is
expansion
ird the N.
' St. Teter,

•(iiig stontj
):.es were
iy taken by

Burgoyne,
1

e Enylisu
il garrison.

Chainlily.
812), when
ucess that

I M. Ironi

lad), which
iiul to tlie

thenecl by
attack in
the same
with COO

Id the post

link Rail-
the fair

[opposite
rictoria

30. Boston to the Franconia Mts.

By the Boston ami l.owdl ;iiitl Boston, L'oncnnI, aud .Mt.uliv.il Uailruadii.
Parlor cars run from Bnston without chanp' tit I'lyniontli. Hosloii to I'lyniouth
(r_';j il.) in 6 hrs. ; to the Twin Ml. Hou.se (-Jo.j M.)in .iboiit s lirs. The branch
roid whieli runs Imni Win;,' IJo.id station lo BoLhlelieui will l»o completed to the
Twin Mt. House by July 1, l.S7;{.

The train leaves the Boston and Lowell station (I'l. 3) at 8, or S.30 A.
M., and passes to Concord by Ronte 21), through Lowell, Nashua, and
Manchester. (Trains leaving the Boston and Maine station, at 7.30, or 8,
make a connection with this route by way of Manchester.)

After leaving Concord, the line crosses the Merriin;'.',;, and i)as.se.s the
statio'.is, E. Concord, X. Concord, CunUrburi/ (with a large Shaker village
4 M. from the station), Xnrthjicld, and Tiltoa (Dexter House). Tilton
wa.s formerly called Sanborntoii Bridge, ami is the seat of the N. IL
Seminary and Female College, which has good buildings near the railroad.

Stages run from Tilton to Gilinaaton Centre and to A'cw Hampton (VVaukeneto
House), 12 M. X., the seat of a Free Will Baptist Thcolo^'ical School. At- the
head of Little Buy, near Tilton, was tht; largest Indian fortress in New Kngland,
consisting of several lines of intrent'hments laced with stone, and evidently once
palisaded. Some renniants of these works remain.

The line now pa.sses along the shores of Winnepe.saukee River, Little
Bay, and Great Bay. Stations, Union Villayc and Laconia (Willard
Hotel), whose factories tuni out yearly 1,500,000 yards of fancy cloths,
275,000 dozen hose, an<l 3-4tH) railroad cars. From this point an inter-
esting excursion may be made to the summit of Mt. Belknap ( U .M. dis-
tant), on the shore of the lake. From this commanding peak the lake
may be seen throughout nearly its entire extent, and views of the mts.
beyond and of the pretty village of Wolfboro are obtained. Laconia is
on the shore of Lake Winnesijuan- (Great Bay), a jiicturesque sheet of
water on the 1. of the line. Afti'r leaving L.acoida, the line jia.sses along
Sanbornton Bay to Art^c VUlajc (Lake House), which lia.s several large
lumber-mills. A small steamer runs daily (in summer) to Alton Bay.
The quiet waters of Long Bay are now skirte<l, on the r. bank, with the
peaks of Belknap Mt. beyond. Station, Weirs, with a fine view out over
Lake Winuepesaukce. Steamers leave tliis point for the villages on the
lake (see Route 32), and N. Conway may l)e reached by crossing to Wolf-
boro, and taking the cars on Route 31. Near Weirs, on the N. shore of
the outlet, is the Endicott Rock, which is about 20 ft. around, and is
carved with the initials of the chiefs of the colonial survey of 1632, and
with the word.s, "John Endicut, Gov." The train passes N., with the
lake on the r., to Meredith {E\m House). Stages run daily from Mere-
dith to Sandwich, and a railroad route has been surveyed, anil is to be
constructed to Conway.

The train now passes Waukawan Lake, on the r., which is 4 M. long

i! I

! 1

;*, .■

•! ■■

210 Route so.

PLYMOUTH.

and 1-2 M. broad. Waukawati is a name given to this lake by the
Indians, and now uscil by suninier vihitors, though the nistics who
live in the vicinity call it Measley Pond. Long Pond is now passed,
and the train stops at Ashland (.S(|uan\ Lake House), a .small factory-
village near the confluence of the Hcpiam and Peniigewa.sset Rivers, and 3
M. from the lovely Squani Lake (see Route a'l). This is in the ancient
]']piscopal town of llolderncss, and the road along Scpumi Lake exhibits
home of the richest scenery in the country. The Peniigewasset is now
crossed near Bridgewater station, and its valley is followed to Plymouth
(* Peinigewa.sset House, 150 rooms, a lirst-class summer hotel, where the
midday trains stop 30 minutes for j)assengers to dine ; Plymouth House).
Plymoulli, the shire-town of (irafton County, is u beautiful village in the
midst of attractive scenery, near the conlluence of the Pemigew..sset and
Baker's Rivers. It has a large country trade, and is noted for its manufac-
ture of line buckskin gloves. Walker's Hill overlooks the village and valley,
while Mt. Prospect (4 M. N. E. ; carriage-road to the sumnut) commands
an extensive prospect. On the S. is tlie valley of the Peniigewasset
(" Place of crooked pines "), with its broad, rich intervales, while nun»er-
ous ■well-known peaks extend between Alonadnock in the S. W. and
Moosilauke in the N. W. The N. is filled with the lofty summits of the
Franconia and the "White Mts., prominent among which is Mt. Lafayette.
Osceola and White Face are in the N. E. , and just below the Stpiam
Hange in the E. is the beautiful, island-dotted*H(iuam Lake. To the S.
E. are the bright waters of Winnepesaukee, with Mt. Belknap looking
over them. Mt. Prospect is 2,UC3 ft. above the sea, and possesses several
other objects of interest, — the Miser's Cave, the Avalanche, and the Cold
and Boiling St)rings.

The drive around Plymouth Mt. is a favorite excursion, and the view
from its summit is pleasant, embracing many of tlic features of the view
from Mt. Prospect, with the addition of Newfound Lake. 2 M. N. of
Plymouth are the romantic Livervi(yre Falls, bearing traces of volcanic
agencies. From Plymouth to Squam Lake it is 6 M. ; to Newfound Lake,
9 M. ; to Centre Harbor, 12 M.

Capt. Baker, o{ Newbury, with a company of Ma.ss. Rangei-s, attacked an Indian
village near the eonllueuee of the river wliieli now bears his name willi the
Peniigewasset River. After killing many of tlie villagers, the Rangers plundered
the place, and then retreated, being vaii'ily attacked afterwards oi\ the plains of
Bridgewater. Plymouth was settled in 17GI. Tlie house still stands here (now a
carriage-shop near the hotel) in which Daniel Webster made his lirst plea before a
jury. Nathaniel Hawthorne died in this village Slay li), 18G4. A remarkable
balloon voyage was eonniiciieed at I'lymouth in Sejjtember, 187-, by an aeronaut
and a journalist, who aseeniled into mid-air, passed over the White Mts. at the
rate of 50 M. an hour, and landed at tSayabec, on the Gulf of St. ijawrence, having
travelled over 500 M. in 13 hrs.

The finest avenue of approach to the Franconia Mts. is by stage ft'om Plymouth
to the Profile House {1.) M. ; fare §4.00). The road runs up the Peniigewasset
valley, and eonnnands line views as tlio mts. are n?>prr);u:hed. C'lrmptiii and
Thornton lie on this stage-road (see Route :i4, adjincul).

[

MOOSILAI'KK MT.

Route 31). 211

Indian
/ilh the
biidered
laiiis of

(now a

jtlore a
lurkable

Tonaut
at the

1 having

(llKHlth

jwasset
va and

isl

After leaving Plyiiioutli, the ruilroail follows the valloy of Baker's
River for 20 M. Station, Hinaur)/ (Stinsoii House), S. of Stinsonhi.It.
and Pond, wldclj were named in memory of a hunter who was killed here
by the Indians. \he village is nearly 1 M. from the .station. Sawmills,
tanneries, and eha coal-works abound in the town. St,, ions, W. Hum-
7jry and UV///»v»/7A (I'nion Hotel), a vilhi;,'e on fair intervah-s, and sur-
romided by hi;,di hills. Carr's .Mt. is on the R, and Ciilia -Mt. on the W.
Station, Warren (Moosilauke House, $ "J -2. 50 a day, .$ 10- l').(M)a week).
Moosilaxike Mt. is r» M. Irom this village (D M. to the summit by a goo<l
earriage-roa<l), and on its top is the Summit House (.*!4.0() a day).

During the summer, when carriages run fre<|uently IVorn the village
hotel to the Summit House, the fare for each pasM-ngcr (iMcluding tolls) is
§ 4.50. From its isolated i>osilion and great height (4,000 ft.), tiiis jieak
commands a grand and uniciue * view. In the S. are the hill towns of
Grafton County, with numerous prominent and well-known peaks rising
over them. Beyond Owl's Head, on the W., considerable ]iortions of the
Green Mts. may be seen on a clear day. In the N. W. is part of the
Connecticut valley, and ono or two Canadian peaks are seen in the
remote N., while nearer at hand are the Pcmigewasset Mts. A noble
panorama of nits, e.xtends from Sugar Loaf (W. of N.) to the white peak
of Chocorua (S. of E.), embracing the chief summits of the White and
Franconia llanges. On the S. E. is the shining surface of Lake Winne-
jicsaukee, and in the same direction some purlion of the State of Maine i.s
visible.

From Peaked Hill, near the village hotel, a good view of MoosiK ike is
obtained. Carr's Mt., Webster's Slide, and Owl's Head are also in War-
ren, while on Hurricane Brook arc numerous j)icturesque cascades, known
as Fairy, Rocky, Oak, Wolf Head, Watenome, and Hurricane P'alla.
Diana's Wash-Bowl is a setjuestered basin on the same creek.

Station, E. Ilairrhill, beyond which the line traveises the glen of the
Oliverian Brook, with Webster's Slide Mt. on the 1. and the precipitous sides
of Owl's Head on the r. Station, Ilarerhill (Exchange Housed a j^retty
village on a hill near the track, with the Grafton County buildings. Just
across the river is the village of Newbury (see Route 24), which may be
seen from the 1. as tlie train skirts the rich intervalo, and passes to N.
Haverhill, a small village near the Ox Bow Bend of the river. Stations,
Woodsville, and Wells River (Coosuck House), where the train crosses
the Connecticdt, and makes a connection with the Cjim. and Psissumpsic
Railroad (Route 24). The river is rcerossed on tlie Aumn Ijridge, ami the
line now runs by Woodsville up the valley of the Ammonoosuc River.
Stations, Bath, a small village on the Connecticut, E. of which the Wild
Ammonoosuc joins the Ammonoosuc ; Lisbon (small inn) ; .V. Lisbon,
and Littleton (Thayer's Hotel; Union House; and several boarding-

■1

I"-',

LM2 Ituiifr .iO.

LAXCASTKR.

I*' t

■p

houses, tlie best v.'' which is tlie * Oak liill House, on tlie higli liill ovlt
the villaj^'o, n<ioninio«hitinK 70 guosts, nt !?10-ir*.00 u wouk). Littleton
was chartered in 17t)4, under the* name of Ciiiswick, and 1ms 15 M. of
ti-rritory on the Connceticiit liiver. It iius 2,400 inhabitants, 2 banks, 3
chun;li<s, scver;il niamifaetorics, and a wekly i)aj)er eallcl " Tiic White
Mountain Ile|>nl)lic." From the hills ii. the vicinity, tine panoramic
views of the Whiter and Franeonia Mts. ni; y be obtained. Stages leave
hcniidnily for the Prohle House (see lioute 34), 11 M. distant, r:. ,<

Stations, Wing Road, when! trains ronneet on a braneh railroad to
llcthlehem and the Twin Mt. House (12 M. distant) ; Whili^tiild (White-
liild House), a hnnber-workiiif^ town ; and lialton (Sumner House), a
pleasant village near the ("onneetieut. Stations, S. Lancaster, and Lan-
caster (* Lancaster House, 120- K'.0 guests, at $U -3.50 aday ; American
House), a beautiful village on a broad plain near the river. It has about
2,200 iidiabitants, 2 weekly pai)ers, and 5 cliurclus. This is a favorite
summer-resoi't, " and in the coml)ined charm, lor walks or rides, of
meadow and river, — the churni, not of wildness, but of cheerful brigiit-
ness and beneficence, — Lancaster is unrivalled." (Stauu Kino.) »S7c6-
bius' Hill, near the village, commands an extensive view ; while the drive
around Mt. Prasyjcc/ (2-3 hrs.) is much esteemed. The rapids on the
Connecticut are reached by a line road over the intervales (t) M.). The
riverward road.< are level ami smooth, revealing hue distant views, the
best of which is obtained from the Lunenburg Hills, beyond the river in
Vermont. To the E. and N. E. of Lancaster are the dark and unexplored
Pilot Mts., wliosc main peak is sometimes ascended by a path leading
from the handet of Lost Nation, yielding a broad view over the upper
Coos country and the mountain-walls to the S. and S. E. Israel's Rivej-
imites with the Coimecticut near the village, after tlowing down a pictur-
escjuo valley from its source near Mt. Madison. Sir Chailes Dilke says
that " tl worhi can show few scenes more winning than Israel's liiver
vallej'-, in die White Mts. of N. H., or N. Conway, in the S. slopes of the
same chain." The stream is named for an old hunter who was one of the
pioneers of the C!oos country, but the melodious Indian name is preferable,
— Singrawaclc, "the foanung stream of the white rock." ** Grand combi-
nations of the river anil its meadows with the Franeonia Range and the vast
White Mt. wall are to be had in short drives beyond the river, upon the
Lunenburg Hills." Stages run from Lancaster twice daily (7 M.) to tlie
Waumbek Iloiise, on Jefferson Hill, famed for its panoramic view of the
White, Franeonia, and Green Mts. (see Roupj i)3).

Beyond Lancaster the railroad follows the Connecticut River for 10 M,,
and connects with tlie Grand Trunk Railway (Route 4o) at Northmaber-
land. — -^ '• • !■ '■ ■■.''■• ■ ■ "'■■/■ ■ - n<.

* M

M.,
iber-

ROCHESTER.

Jioule 31. 2 1 3

31. Boston to the White Mountains.

nv Mie F.astorn Uiilroiul to N. Cnnwny (ir?7 M.) in 5 hm.. faro. S6.00 ; to tbo
rr.iwfor.| Hou.si^ (l()2 M.) in I'J hr«.. fniv. $s.:>(» ; to tlic fJij-n Hoiiso (l')7 M.) in
11 Ins , faiv 87.00. This i;: lln- quicki'st nnd nearest route to tlm Wiiito Mts., ninl
mns two l*tilln)an cximiss trains daily in Huninior.

Tlie train loavi's the Eastern station in IJoston (on Causeway, at tin- foot
of Frientl St. ), and pa.ssea out ovi'V the Cliarlrs Kiver. Uoston to Vnnway
Junction, see lloiite \M (the inincipiil stations are Chelsea, Lynn, Sahnn,
Ipswich, Newbitryport, ]lanii)ton, and I'ortsniouth). Heyond Conway
.Function the tiain piisses the stations, S. Jii'nrick, Sa/inon Falls, und
Oreat Falls. At the hitter viUagu are extensive cotton-factories, employ-
ing 3,000 hands, and eonsnniiiig 7,700 lialcs of cotton yearly. Station,
Rochester (hndt/r.'.s JIuH ,• Munsiim I/ause), a village on Norway rinins,
with several factories near the falls on the Cucheco lliver. The town has
3 banks, 7 churches, and over 4,(ilM> inhaliitants. Over 2,0O0,OO(» yards
of flannel are made here yt-arly, with lOOjOOO j)airs of shoes, 100,000 pairs
of blankets, and 2,000,000 bricks. Ilochester was settled in 1728, anil its
people kept constant vigil for nearly half a century, being often attacked
by the Indians. John 1'. Hale, a i)rominent leader in the antislavery
movement, and U. S. Senator for IG years, was born liere in IbOG.

The Pnrthind nvd nnrhc.ifi'r Hailrortif runs from this village across the centre of
York Coimty to Portland (')2 M. ; faro, .'«! 1.. '),')). Stations, /:'. l{(iclicster, K. Leba-
non, and Siiriiiijnile, a vi!lai,'(! in Sanfonl, wliich was ltiMi;j;lit of tlic ISaganioro
Flucllcii in 1U()1. Stages run from Hi)rin;.,'vale to yiiaplei,;!;!!, and to Nowfitld,
where the Jit. Ka^Io Tripoli is made, and lar^^o carriaf^'ts-factories nre located.
Htalion, Altretl {Cot I ml Ilousr ; County lldUi^r), a pheasant villaj,'e on a level
jilain, contaiiiiii;^' tlie Yuri; County Imildinj^'s, and namcci in honor oC King Alfred
of England. The line next crosses the towns of W.iterborou!.;!! and Uollis, and
the Saco River. Station, llnxton (IJerry's Hotel), tlie old Narra;,'ansett, No. I.
which was nameil in enniplinient to Paul (Jotlin, its pastor for 40 years, whoso
ancestors came from iJuxtnn in Kngland. This town was one of the 7 granted by
Ala.ss. to the victorious siildiers of Kin;^ I'liilip's War, and ',» more were granted
to th» veterans of tii(! Canada War of IG'.''>. Tlie soldiers were tlius eomj>en.sated
for their labors, and at the same time the distres.sed and war-swept settlements
on the Maine eoast were shielded by a double tier of towns inlial)itcd by hardy
and fearless veterans. Bn.xton has 4 vil'iges, witli extensive lumber-mills. Stages
rim to Cornish and Limington. Station, Gnrhi ni {VAomcwt House), the 7th town
granted to the veterans of 1075, and named for Capt. (lorham, whose company
lost 30 killed and 41 woundeilat the Narragansett Fort Fight. Station, Sacnrnpp'',
a manufacturing village which for '>0 years sent vast amounts of lumber to Port-
land and Havana. The Cumberland Mills turn out .Sl.oOo.OnQ worth of paper
annually. After running across the jKipulous town of Westbrook, the train ap-
proaches Bramhall Hill, and pus.-ies into the terminal station at Portland.

After leaving Rochester, the White Mt, train passes the stations, Haye ;'
Crossing and S. Milton, and stops at Milton (FrankMn House), a quiet
farming town ntar the Salmon Falls lliver. Mt. TenerifTe is seen on the
1. Station, Union (Union House), beyond which Copple Crown Mt. is
seen in the W.

21 i Route 31.

CONWAY.

\ri

.. .»

Hf;,

H ■

fi I

FroTii Wolfboro Junction a branch niilinail runs (in 12 M.) to Wolrtmro, on
l«'ike V.iiiiio])esaiik('c (st t; Koutc ;iJ), in tlio latter part of its courso skirting
Smith's I'oml, and stopping near the wluirl" of the Lake ateaniera.

Stations, Wakejlchl, E. Wnkcjxcld, and X. Wakejidd, to the E. of
which is Lake Newichawaimock (East Pond), ".vliich is 3 M. long and 1
M. wide. Stations. (Is.'n'pce and Ossipce Ventre (two inn.s), the shire-
town of Carroll County. A ,trlini])se of Ossijiee Lake is gained on the r.,
boyond this station, with (Jreen Mt. on its farther shore. Running N.
withOssijire Mt. on the 1., the train reaches W, Ossipee (* Banks' Hotel),
from which fine e.xer;sions may he made to Ossi])ee Lake, Sandwich
Notcli, and Mt. Chocorua (see page 220). Madison Planis are next
traversed, with the broad sheet of Six Mile Pond glittering among the
forests on tlie r. and Legion Mt. far beyond. On the 1. is the weird peak
of Chocorua, to which Starr King has a})plied the adjectives, "gallant,
haughty, rugged, torn, proud-peaked, desolate, proud and lonely, tired."

Stations, Madison and Conway (* Conway House; Pequawket House;
Grove House). This village is situated on rich lovel land, and has many
charming rural scenes along the winding Saco. From its air of tran-
quillity and pastoral seclusion, this hamlet of Chatauqac is preferred to
N. Conway by those who seek (piiet and rest, and arc regardless of bril-
liant society. Excursions are made from this point to * Choconia Lake,
8-9 M. distant, under the mt. of the same name; to Conway Centre and
Fryeburg (see Route 39), in the N. E. ; to Chatham, by the long, strag-
gling village of (!onway Street, between the Green Hills and the Maine
border; to Champney's Falls, ascending the Swift River valley to the W. ;
and to the Cathedral, Echo Lake, and Diana's Bath. The last-named
places are as near to Chatau(pxe as to N. Conway, and the fording of the
river is avoided. There are fine views of the White Mts. from this vil-
lage, with the Mote Mts. looming in the N, W. Beyond Conway the
train runs N. for 5 M., much of the way being over embankments and
trestles on the Saco intervales. The Mote Mts. are approached on the 1.,
and Kiarsarge ai)pears on the r. Soon after crossing the Saco, awhito
village is seen on the hillside, the tower of the Kiarsarge House is ap-
proached on tlie r., and the train stops at the new and elegant station
building at N. Conway (see Route 33).

THE SWITZERLAND OF AMERICA.

Route 32. — Lakk Winnepesaukki; and the Sandwich Mountains.
33. — The White Mountains and North Conway.
84. - • The Franconia Mountains and the Pemigewasskt

Valley.
35. — The Percy Peaks, Dixville, and Lake Umbagoo.

LAKE WINNEPESAUKEE.

Route S2. 215

, Ktrasc-

is ap-
station

AINS.

32 Lake Winnepesankee and the Sandwich ^Tcuntains.

From Unstnn to tlip I,;iko : (a) By Hoiit^'s 20 and 30, tlirou;,'h Lowoll nnd Con-
ronl to Weir.;, Miifiicc tlic stoaiucr " Lady of tlu- Lake" runs to Centre Harbor
and Woin)oro. Boston to Weirs, Ji)'> M.

(b) By Ron*^(' 158, tlirongh LawrtMice and Dover to Alton Bay, wlienee the
steamer " Jit. Washington " runs to Wolfboro, Centre Ilarlior, and Meredith.
Boston to Alton Bay, iu; M.

(e) By Routes 'M and ;57, thron;,di Salem and Portsmouth to Wolflwro, where
both the steamers touch, and trnm wiiicli all the laktvvilla;,'es may be visited. Bon-
ton to Wolfboro, 10(i M. (in l.J hrs. by the Pullman express train in the morning).

Lake Winneiiesaukee i.s in the counties of Carroll and Belkna]i, in ihn
State of N. IL, and is 25 M. long by 1-7 M. ■svitlo ••■' 'aining Gi) square
miles. It is 472 ft. above the sea, and its waters i talline purity re-

flect the shadows of several bold mountains, ai,.i sunound nearly 300
islands, great and small. 8 towns rest around it, having (in 1870) an
aggregate population of 14,000 on about 200 sipuire milt s of territory;
and but few and small are the villages along the cui! nisly indented sliorcs.
The waters of the lake are discharge<l by the Winnepesankee Kiver,
which unites with the Pemigewa.sset to form the Merriniac, and passes
into the ocean at Newburyport. Winnepesankee is an ancient Indiiiu
word which is popularly su])posed to mean " The Sndlc of the Great
Spirit," although some interpret it as " Pleasant Water in a High Place."

"There maybe lakes in Tyrol and Switzerland which, in partienlar respects,
eveoiid the charms of any in the Western world. But in that wedding of the
land with the water, in which one is perpetually approaehin;,' and retreating from
the other, and each transforms itself into a thousand figures for an endles.s dance,
or grace and beauty, till a countless nndtitude of shapes are arranged into perfec;t
case and freedom, of ahnost musical motion, nothing can lie held to surpass, if to
matcli, our Winnepesankee." (BARTor..)

"J have been something fif a traveller in on • own country, - lough far les.s
than I cmild wish, — and in Kurojie have seen all that is most attractive, from
the Highlands of Scotland to the (Jolden Horn of Constantinople, from the sum-
mit of the Hartz Mountaiii-s t(» tin; Fountain of \'au(duse ; but my eye hiis yet t;>
rest 'Ml a lovelier scene tlian that which smiles around you us you sail fn-m Weir^
Landing to Centre Harbor." (KowAun F']vkuk.t.)

"Luokhig up to the broken sides of the Ossipee Mts. that are rooted in tin;
lake, over wliich huge shadows loiter ; or back to the twin li(dknap hills, whii Ii
u]i]ieal to softer sensibilities with their venlnred synnnetry ; or larfiuT down,
ujton the charming succession of mounds that hem the shores near Wnls'boro ; or
northward, where distant Chocorua lifts his bleached head, so tenderly touched
now with gray and gold, to defy the hottest sunlight, as he has defied for age.-?
the lightning and tlie storm, — does it not seem as though the jiassage of the
P.salnis is fulfilled bel'ore nur eyes, - ' Out of the perfection of beauty Cod hath
sliined'?" (Thomas Staku Ki.vo).

'i'he poetry of Percival and of Whittier has often been inspired by Wiunepe
saukee. (.See Whitlier's poems, "The Lake-side," "bummer by the Lake," and
others.)

The steamer runs E. from Woirs, with Meredith Bay opening to the N.
Mount lielknap is seen to the S., and Ossipee Mt. looms \\\i ncross the
lake in front. After passing GovernorN Ldanl on the S., the boat turns
to the N. through a strait between Bear Island (3 M. from Weirs) and the

• S'S

.-^n

216 Route ,32.

CENTRE HARBOR.

^ (

U' .'I

I •

HI '

y \

mainland. Just after passing this island, and when within 3 M. nf
Centre Harbor, the finest * view on the lake is oVjtained. The whole line
of the Sandwich Mts. is seen in the N., between Ossipee on the r. and
Red Hill on the 1., with Whiteface looming foremost, and "the haughty
Chocorua " leagues away to the N. E.

Centre Harbor is 10 M. from Weirs. It has tlie*Senter House, 8^.00 a
day; tlio Moiilton House, 8 10 -14.00 a weetc ; and nuiiieroiis pleasant boarding-
houses, aiiiouj; whieli are tho.se of R. L. Coe, A. M. Graves, the Wentworths, and
Rev. Aliiion Renson. 'I'lie priees at these houses range Ironi S7.00 to !? 14.00 a
week. Kelsea's i.s on tin- far-viewing Centre Harbor Hill, over a mile from the
village, while under Red Hill and near tiquani Laiie is Sturtevant's '({veeommodat-
ing about :U)).

Steamers (time-table of 1S7"2) leave Centre Harbor 4 times daily. The " Ladv
of tlic Lake " l<!aves at 7.:}0 A. iM., and at 1 V. M. Far.' to Wolfbo'ro, 75 c.

Stagem leave daily (in suunuer) for Moultonboro, Sandwich, Tanuvorth, Madi-
son, and W. Ossipee.

Centre Harbor is a small handet at the liead of one of the 3 northern
bays of the lake. It was settled by Col. Senter in 1757, and was named
in his honor, but the improvement of the town has been slow, and in
1870 it had only 44G inhabitants. There are pleasant di'ves from this
village to Moultonboro, to Sandwich, and * "ai'ound the ring," the latter
being by a series of roads 4 M. long, passing by Red Hill and witljin siglit
of Squam Lake, and returning to the village. Centre Harbor Jlill, 1 ]\I.
from the hotels, affords a fine lake prospect, recommended for its sunset
views. But the main attraction of the i»lace is the * ascent of Red Hill
(2,000 ft. high). By the highway it is 4 M. to the foot of the hill, from '
which a bridle-path nearly 2 M. long reaches the summit. A road 2 M.
shorter is available to the pedestrian, bypassing out on the Sandwich
road, taking the first farm-lane to the r. beyond the cemetery and cross-
roads, and crossing straight to Red Hill by means of quiet, rural field-
roads. T)u! mountain-path soon turns to the r. from the highway (which
is followed to tlie 1. after it is gained). The hill is a.scended to the first
cottage, around whose upper corner the ]>ath bears sharply to tlie 1. The
reddish sienite ledges of the summit are gained by a long climb tlirough
the forest, and here is seen the luxuriant nva tirso', whose flan)e-red
autumnal tints probably gave name to the mountain. The * * view from
the summit vies in beauty with that from Mount Holyoke, though of far
different character and devoid of historic charni. Lake Winnepesaukee is
outstretched in the S. with leagues of l)right waters and hundreds of
islets, while the twin summits of Mt. Belknap are seen over Centre
Harbor, abont 15 M. away. In the S. W. is Mt. Kearsarge, full 30 ^l.
distant, while it is claimed that Monadnock (70 M. S. \V. ) may be seen in a
clear day. In the W. is the lovely Squam Lake, winding like Winder-
mere, among the hills, with numerous i.slands and white, sandy beaches,
while beyond are the Squam Mts. and "Sit. Prospect, near Plymouth.

"The Mt. Washington r.mge is not visible, being b.-rrcd from sight by the dark

( I

'fW-irx.ii-i,

•them
lamed
md ill
[1 this
latter
1 sight
, 1 M.
Biinset
Hill
from
2 M.
Iwich
;ross-
lield-
vhich
first
The
oiigh
e-red
from
f far
ee is
of
ntre
M.
in a
der-
hes,

hark

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U n*-,'f

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WHITE FAf^^.. ^ "

<i\

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T AM WORTH

NBOfiO

^/f^ TOA^ BOROUGH

It*

.y"

>^LACONtA

'x^ \-.Hurn Jh>r<f ..
5. (\>iy „

7. (lover nor 'S „
'd.hhrfi/ Jsloncfjf
9 Jhorhlofid

11 Tiiftorf hnro „
ir> MoultonhorrK,
\iy Meredith „

if! f

M. I

I: V

216

mainia:
Centre
of the^
Red Hi
Chocon

Cent

day ; tJM

llOUSPS, I

Rov. Air
wcclc. I
yill.-i^'e. 1
in.t,' aliou
Stean

of tlic \a

Stage

HOIl, Jllld

Centn

bays of 1

in his li

1870 it 1

village t(

being by

of Sqnan

from the

views. ]

(2,000 ft.

which a 1

shorter is

road, tak;

roads, am

roads. T

is followei

cottage, a

reddish sii

the forest

autumnal

the sunimj

different o!

outstretch'

islets, whi

Harbor, al

distant, wl

clear day.

mere, amo]

while beyo

" The Mt.

•a' . . :'

• ; < '-

) ".

i-ty I

CENTRE IIAllliOR.

lioiUf JJ. 2 1 7

Sandwich Range, which in the afternoon, untouched by the light, wears a s.ivage
frown that contrasts most effectively with the placid bc.itity of tlie lake hdnw.
Here is the place to Htiidy its borders, toailinire the tleet (»f islands tliat ride at an-
choron its bosom, - from little shallops tn ^'rand three-deckers, — and to enjoy the
exf^uisite lines by which its bays are infolded, in wliicli its coves retreat, and with
'vhich its low caites cut tlie azure water, and hany over it an emerald friuije."
^Starr Kino.)

, " For to the nonth

Thv slninl)orin>r wiitors fl'iiitcd. one lonp «heet
s Of hurni.slicil ^'iiid, — Ix'twifn lliv nciirer shorci

9 SofHv cmlirrx't'd. im<l iiK'ltiiifr ilistiintly

* Into a yollow liii/c, t'ml>i>'<i)iiH'il iuw

'Mid s)'iiidii\V3" liil's ul iiiist\ iiKiinitniiis, nil

Covcri'il witli Hliowcry liKlit.'uii with a veil

Of'uiry gauze. " — rtucivAt.

In the N. E. the weird peak of Chocorua is seen, and nearer at hand in the E.
Is the heavy, dark mass of Ossipee. The central peak of the Handwioli Ilange is
White Face, while Black IVak holds tlie left, and the right extends from Passa-
conaway to Chocorua. Tbe white villai^e in the jdain below is S.indwieh, while
the Bear Camp and Red Hill Pouds are seen in its vieinity. " Whoever misses
the view from Red Hill loses the most fasciii'.ting and tlioroughly enj(jyable view,
from a moderate mountain-height, that can be gained trom any eminence thatliea
near the tourist's path." The afternoon is the best time for the excursion.

* Squam Lake is 3-4 M. from feiitre Harbor, un»l should be visited
for the sake of its .seipu'stered loveliness, its romantic. isK.ts, and its white
strand. The waters of .S(iuam are of rare i)urity, and abound in llsh.

Plymouth i.s 12 M. N. W. of Centre IIarl>or, and is approached by a
smooth but hilly road, passing through the romantically beautiful district
formerly inhabite<l by the Squamscott Indians. This road skirts the
shores of Squam and Little Squam Lakes, and at al)out 5 M. from Centre
Harbor, has a superb* view of Chocorua, 15 ^L away, over the broadest
part of Squam Lake. The road passes across the broad, rich intervales
of Holderne-js and Plymoutli, with the Sciuaui Mts. and Mt. Prospect on
the r.

On leaving Centre Harbor for Wolf bora, Vai steamer keep.s a S. E.
course, with Ossipee Mt. on the E. over the low shores of Moidtonboro
Neck. A great archipelago of islands is j)a.sscd, -~- islands which shall
here be nameless, they being worse than nameless in the poverty of tln-ir
homely Saxon titles. About midway of the lake "the unmistakable
majesty of Washington is revealed. There he rises, 40 M. av/ay, tower-
ing from a plateau built for his throne, dim green in the distance, except
the dome that is crowned with winter, and tlie strange ligurcs that are
scrawled around his waist in snow." Fredrika Breiuer speaks of "the
Olympian majesty of Mt. Washington "' from this point. " Farther on,
the summit of Chocorua is seen moving swiftly over lower ranges, and
soon the whole mountain sweeps into view, startling you with its ghost-
like pallor and haggard orest." On Long Island, nearly half-way down
the lake, is a small hotel, while the Island Hotel on Diamond Island is
W. of tlie course, and is a favorite resort for excuision parties. Tlri
mountains in the N. change their relative positions with kalci lo icop' ;
10

'■mr

\t i

218 n»ut<'32.

VVOLFBORO.

I ;

I \

■

il
i|

I T

I ■;!

r;ii)i(lit.y, and the imposiiij,' peaks of Mt, Belknaj) (whonce is obtained tlio
finest lake-view) loom up aliead. After jiassiiig these peaks tlie steamer
rounds into Wolfl)oro Hay, witli Topple Crown Mt. on the r. 20 M. fron\
Centre Ilavhor is the villaj,'e of Wolf boro.

Hotels. * Pavilion, tlie best hotel on tlio Iftke ; BcUevue House, S8-12.0;* a
week ; L.ike House. There arc also many jileasant and retired hoarding-houses
in and iHnr tlie villaj^e.

Steniners have tV)r Alton Bay, Centre Harbor, and Weirs, two or three timc.i
daily.

Stages run daily to Tvftnnhnro, a stock-raising \o\vn 7 M. N. W., and to Movl-
tcmboro, over a pleasant road on t!ie E. shore of the lake.

Wolflioro was settled in 1770, and was tlie site of the fine mansion of
Gov. Sir Jolm Wentworth. It i.s now a jilisasant vil]af,'e in a thriving;
town of abo\it 2,000 inhabitants, with 3 banks and 3 churches. Its situ-
ation on two long hills near the lake is very beautiful, and fine views ore.
enjoyed of the Belknap Mts. a.:ross the water. Good lake-views may be
had from the hills about the village, and also from Tumble-Down Dick, a
high eminenee near the large Snuth's Pond, E. of \yolfl)()ro. But tho
best excursion is to Crqqde C'rnvm Mt.^ about 5 M. S. E., by a road passing
to S. Wolf boro. The carriage-road runs nearly to the summit (fare, S 2.00
from the hotel for each person of a i)arty). Copple Crown is 2,100 ft.
high, and furnishes from its summit a view of neaily the whole length of
the lake, with Mt. Belknaj) near at hand in the N. W., and the heavy
range of Sandwich looming above the head of the lake. Chocorua and
Ossipee are close together, a little W. of N., and on a clear day Mt.
Washington may be seen beyond all, while the ocean is visible in the
opposite direction. 30 lakes and ponds are seen from Copple Crown, of
which Ossipee, in the N., is one of the finest.

The Wolfboro Branch of the Eastern Railroad runs to the N. Conway main lino
in 12 M. Two express trains leave for Boston daily, making the di.staneo (lOG
W.) in 4-5 hre.

After leaving Wolfboro the steamer follows a southerly course to Fort
Point, where it tunis by Little Mark Island into Alton Bay. This is a
narrow estuary, 4-0 M. long, and bordered by high wooded hills of
Trosach-like Ijoldness. The steamer follows the sinuosities of this curi-
ous inlet, and sometimes seems to be walled in, as neither way of ingress
nor egress is seen. Mt. Major is passed on the W. shore, and after many
turns and bendings the last bluff is passed, and the hotel and station at
the S. extremity of the lake are reached. Here is situated the Bay Vieio
House (.$10-14.00 a week), a tpiiet summer-hotel with pleasant drives
and good fishing in the vicinity.

Alton Bay was formerly called Merry-Meeting Bay, since it was a famous gath-
ering-place for the Indians. Several Indian raids on the N. H. coast passed down
this bay, and in 1722 the province built a military road to it, and commenced I'or-
tiiications. Tlie cost was found to be too heavy lor the little colony, and the
position was given up. Atkinson's regiment, which was covering the frontiers
during the French war, built a fort and encamped here through the winter of
1746-7.

CENTRE HARBOR TO CONWAY. Ilnvt,: 32. 210

Fort
liis is a
liills of
lis curi-

ingress
[• many
It ion at
Y<j View
drives

IS gath-
kl down
:/ed lor-
iiul the
roil tiers
Inter of

The hotel is about 30 M. from Centre Harbor. Mt. Major and Pros-
pect Hill are near the hotel, and command beautiful lake-vicwf, while the
ocean may be seen (in clear weather) from the top of Prospect. Sharp'.*
Hill also ^ives a neat lake-view.

Among the longer excursions is that to Lougee Pond, near a cltir,ter of
lakelets from which flows the Suncook River. Gilmantou Iron Works
village is a little way S. of these ponds, which are about M. from Al-
ton Ray. 6-8 M. to the eastward lies Merrymeetiiig L dec, an irregular,
picturesque, and sequestered ))ond 10 .M. in circumferencn, N. of whirli
is Copple-Crown Mt. The favorite excursion from .Mton Pay is to Mt.
Belknap, 10 M. N. W. on the shores of, and overlooking, Lake Winn;^-
pesaukee. Seats in the carriage which runs to the mt. whenever a parly
is formed cost §1.50 each, and the noble view of lakes and mts. morn
than repays for the time ami trouble of the journey.

Three trains daily (iluring the season) leave Alton Bay for Boston.
Distance, 96 M. ; time about \ hrs. (see Route 3S.)

Centre Harbor to Conway.

A railroad liiu^ lias been surveyed from Meredith through Centre Har-
bor to W. Ossipee. Daily stages now pass over the road between thesa
points. After leaving the Harbor, lied Hill is approached and passed,
and a village of Moultonboro is reached in 5 M. from thi; Scnter House.
Moultonboro has a small inn and two or three boarding-liouses, an I
abotmds in pleasant scenery which is rarely visited. Red Hill is here,
and Ossipee Mt., also the long and sequestered Moultonboro Bay with its
great archipelago of picturesque islets, and with plenty of fish in its
waters.

The Ossipee Indians had their home near this hay, and many relies of them
have l)e<'n found, chief among wliieh is a great numuniental nimnid at the nioutli
of Melvin River.

" Where the Great I.nko'ssiinny smiles
Dimple round its hundred islJ's,
And the mountuin's f^ranitc ledge
Cleaves the water like a wedge,
Rineed about witli smootli, pray stoncft,
Rest the giant's mighty bones.

Close beside, in shnde and gleam,
Ln\i3h» and ripples Melvin streiim,
Melvin .viiter, iiioinifsiin-liorn.
All fair flowers its hanks adorn ;
All the woodlands voices meet.
Mingling with its murmurs sweet.

Over lowlands forrst-crrown
Over waters isIand--trown,
Over silver-snnded beacli,
I>eaf'-loeked liay ami misty rencli,
Melvin stream and burial-heap.
Watch and ward the mountains keep.

T^ ho that Titin cromlecli fills ?

Forest-kaiser, lord o' the hills ?
Kniglit whi) on the Idrelien tree
Carved his stivage licraMry ?
Priest () the pine wood temples dim,
IVophet, sii;,'e, or wizard f-'rim 'i "

See Whittier's poem, " The (Irave by the J.ake."

On the S. side of r)ssi|i(M' Mt. is a mincr.il sj)riu_', about 1 M. from wliii-h is a
noble fountniii, Ki ft. amund, wliose waters gush forth witli gn-at font; lunl
copiousness. Followiii,' the stream which is liorn here, a line waler-lUU, 70 fu
deep, is foinid in the forest, on tlic 1. of wliieh is a cavern.

Tho stage-road, after some pleasant views of S<pinm Lake, enter ^ Ih'!
pretty village of Sandwich (/'ed Hill House ; boarding-houses of B^'eih',

220 llouic .L\

SANDWICH.

I* 1

■!

f !

Wigijin, and others), wliich is in a narrow valley nearly surrounded by
mountains. The scenery is noble, embracing Ossipce on the S. E., lied
Hill, Die Hqunin Mts. on the W., and the dark and storm-worn Samlwlch
Ranpe on the N. Squam Lake is on the S. W. border of the town, and a
charming road leads from Iho village to rhjniitullt, jiassing for sevtral
miles along the N. an<l W. shores of the lake, with the Htjuam Mts. on
the r. Another road (somewhat arduous) leads across a high mountain-
pass to Tlidrntdi), in the I'emigcwassct Valley, Avhile a bridle-path leads
through Oreeli'v's (Jap to Widrrvitle. Beyond 8an<hvirh the stage passes
near Bearcam}» Pond, and follows the licarcami) lliver down through
Sandwich Notch to the lowlands of Tamwovth and Ossipee towns.
W'hitticr's poem, "Among tlie Hills," hai. Ita scene laid in this vicinity where

" Throtitrh Sandwich notch the west-wind sung
(IfKid morrow to the cotter :
And onro npiiin dioconm's Imrn
Of shadow pierced tlie water.

Ah<i\ e his lirond lake Odsipoe
Once more tlie Riin«l\iiie wcarlnif,

Stoopf(l. trucinff oil thiit Nilver iliield
His grim arniuriul bearing."

And many arc the weary ones who stjU come here

" To drink thf wine of moiintnin air
BeKide the Uearcainp Water."

Whitefacc (4,100 ft. high) is the most imposing of the Sandwich Mts.,
and is sometimes ascended from Sandwiuli, although the excursion is
arduous and fatiguing. The view is said to he magnificent, embracing
Winnepesaukee on the S. with the loftier peaks of the White Mts. on the
N. On the '. E. is Passaconaway, a noble peak, 4,200 ft. high, which
was named alter the great sagamore of Peniiacook, the most ])ow('rful
Indian prince in northern New I'jigland, early in the 17lh ccTitury. lie
governed a large confederacy of tribes from his seat at Pennacook (Con-
cord), and although he strove to annihilate the English by necromantic
arts, he never put his warriors in anus against them (see page 222).

Chocorna and Ossipee.

The road through Sandwi<;h Notch passes out by Banks' Hotels near
W. Ossipee station, on the Eastern R. R. (Route 31). This is a pleasant
old country hotel, with good accommodations at a moderate price, and
stands in a line position either for viewing or visiting the surrounding
scenery. Banks' is 18 M. from Centre Harbor, by way of Sandwich.
Pleasant excursions are made along Bear River and into the Sandwich
Notch. Ossipee Mt. is close to the hotel, and the highest peak is but 2-3
M. distant. A grand view of Lake Winnepesaukee is obtained from this
point, while Chocorna looms up in the N. and Ossipee Lake is in the
S. W.

Ossipee Lake is about 4 M. S. E. of the hotel. The road follows down
the Bear Camp valley to the vicinity of the lake. In the field near Daniel
Smith's farm-house (1. of the road) is an Indian mound, nearly 50 ft. in
diameter, from which several skeletons and other relics have been taken.

near
la.sant
|, and

iding

kvicli.

wich

I2-3

this

the

lown

miel

It. ill

lkeii<

MOUNT (•iio(\);:rA.

n„lltr .it. 221

In the same field and nearer ;liu lake art- tlie roiiuiins of LoviwiU's tort,
built i'l the spriii}? of 1725, uiid uliaiidoiit-d after the h;ittl»' ut Peqiiawket
(Fryebiir,'). Just beyond tliis point are tlio shore.s of Ossipee Lake, a
scfpu'stcrt. 1 sheet of water embracing about 10 square nules, with Greea
Mt. rising bdl'lly on the further sliorc.

* Mt. Chocorua is be,-.i visited from this point. It is 8 M. to the foot
of the mt. ami little more than half-way the l»eautiful Chocorua Lake
(Aa/ifi Hniifie, finely situated) i-s passed. From this i)oint the summit '^ of
the mountain are seen, of which "■ one is a rocky, desol.ite, craggy -peaked
substance, cruii<;hlng in shape not unlike a monstrous w.drus (tliough the
summit suggests more the 1. ..: turned head ancV Ix-ak of an eagle on the
w:itcli against some danger) ; the other is the wraith of the proud and
lonely shape above." The ascent requires 5 M. from the foot of the
mountain, and is very ar luous, — no path having yet been made.

" IIow rich unci Honorous that word Chocorua is ! Does not its rhythm suggest
tlie wildncs.-i and loneliness of the j^reat liills? To our e;irs it always lirinj,'s with
it the si,L,di of tlit! winds thioii^^li nK'nntaiii-iiines. It is investeil witli traditional
iMid jieetic interest. In funn it is massive and synnuetrieal. The forests of its
lower sloi)us are ( lowned with rock tiiat is seulptured into a peak with lines I ill
ol" liaiiglity eiier.;y, in whose gorges hu;,'e shadows are entrapped, ami wliose ditrs
blaze with morning' K'dd. On one side of its .ja;;j^ed i)eak a charming lowlinil
]iri)si)cet stretehes li and S. of the Kandwi- h llan.ue, indented by tiie emerald
sliores of Wiunepesaukee, ^\hiell lies in (pit'eidy beauty ujmmi tlie soft, far-strefeh-
in^ landscapes. I'ass around a Imu'e rock to tiie other side of the steep iiyramid,
and yon have turned to another eliai>ter in the hook of nature. Notliinj,' l)ut
mountains runniu;,' in long jiarallels, or Itendini,', ridge behind riilge, an; visible,
hen; brilliant in sunli^jlit, tlnre gloomy with shadow, and all related to the tower-
ing mass of the imperial Washington There is no sunniiit from which th.

]ireeipices are so sheer, and sweeji down with such evcdoidal (!urves. It i.s so
related to the i»lains on one side and the mountain-gorges on the other, tint no
grander wat,eh-tower, e.\eei)t Mt. Washington, can be sealed to study and enjoy
clouil scenery." (ST.\nu KiN(;.)

Chocorua, the blameless prophet-chief of the Sokokis Indians, was pursued to this
lofty peak l)y a M'hite hunter, who was determined to kill him for the saUo of tho
s<'ali)-nioney (the colonies gave large bounties for Imliin scalps). The chief
ideaded lor (|uarter. speaking of his quiet life in which he had never luirmed
the colonists ; but when his pursuer refusetl to he.ir, iin<l dn w near to put him to
death, the noble Chocorua e.ist one long, lingering look over the fair lands of hi.s
hunted peoide, and lifting up his arms invoked a solenm and terrible <ur.se upon
the country in which the English were swarming He then leapeil Imldlyover
the tremendous pi'ecipice, and was dashed in pieei-s on the roeks below. Malig-
nant and fatal diseases ann^ng the cattle, and other fell signs long troubled tho
towns about the mountain, while ,-trange legends arose, and the baleful elfeuts
were lor Uiaay years attributed to the merited curse of Chocorua.

33. The White Mountains and North Conway.

New York to the White .\fts. (a.) ByR<Jute 2t, through New Haven, Springfield,
and Wells River, to Littleton (whence stau^es run to the Prolile House, 341 M.
from N. Y.), and tlie Twin Mt. House (a;W M. by R. R. from N. Y.). Stages Irom
the Twin Mt. House to the Crawford House (9 M.)

(h.) By steamer to New London, theme by Route 12 to Andierst, Brattleboro,
and Wells River, — thence to the Mts. as in (n).

(c.) By New London, Noi-wich, Worcester, and Nashua (Route 13), to Concord,
and thence by Route 30. Or by the preceding way as far as Weirs, whence Lake

\i \

222 J{nitf»-.ll THK WniTK MOrXTAINS ANT) N. CONWAY.

WiimeiK'saiikcc (Route 92) in rrnsseil to WolflMim'. nml Iloutf 31 is followed to
N. Conway. Many tnuristn ]>n-ft'i' to take the iiiKlit train or l>oat to Uostoii, ami
make tiicir way tliciiic to iht; Wliilc Mt.-i. l)y a iiioniinn train.

limton In the U'hiti Mt^. (il.) Hy roriti- .'il. 11ii<iii;,'li Lynn. S;il«-rn, Nt-wlitiryport,
ftn<l I'ortsinoutli, to N. Conway. Hy this roiite tlie <iiMtan<i' liom Hoston to N.
Conway is |:;7 M. ; totlie ( rawlonl lloii.sc, Hi'J .M. ; to the (ilrn lloii.-,f, 1.0" .M.

(( .) Hy HomIi's •_'!• and Itn. flirou;,'li l.owcll, Nasliua, Mandic.stcf, ami Coiuonl,
to Wt'irs. riyinoiitti, and tlif I'win Mt. llousf. Or l)y crossing,' hakf NViiine-
jifsankrc from Writs to Woifboro, n-ucli N. Conway l»y Uoute Ul (or by the staye-
loMtc troni < iiilrt' Marltor).

(/) Hy Konfc ;il to \\ olfl'iMd, tlnMicf iroHsin;,' LnUv WinncpcHaukrc to WtMr^,
and lollowinK Hontc ;i<) to I'lynmulli, Lilth'toii, and the Francunia Mta., or to tlio
Twin .Mt.and Crawtoid llou.se.

i;/.) Hy Uoiite 'M to Altci Hay, an<l thfiicc liy stcamtT to Wolflioro and I{"iit«
HI to N. Conway ; or to Centre Harbor, and lloiitc ;12 {ad Jinciit); or to Weirs, and
tiif'ticc by Itoiitc :to, , in (.^

I'luthniil itini till' East ti> ■kn n'hitr Mis. (//.) Hy Route 39 to N. ConwayfOO M.),
and tiiiiici' liy sta;^e to tlic t'lawlord ami (din llonscs.

(/.) Hy Koi'itf 40, fo tin; village of tiorham (!•) M.):and thcnoe by stage to the
(jlcti llonsi! and Crawford House.

Moitlriiil mill Qiiihic (n tlir White Mta. (j.) By Route 40 (Grand Trunk Railway
to Corhani, 'J()(J M. from .Montreal, and 2-'(J .M. from Qiieliec.

Albuiiji imil Sanittiiia to the U'liitv Ml^. (/,-.) Hy Routes ^3 anrl 28 to Rutland,
thenco by Route 20 to Hellows Falls, and tlieiiee by White River Jum lion and
Weils I{i\ir to Litlletoii and the Twin Mt. House.

redetttriaiilsni has never olitained niiKh favor in AnuTiea, but when the
l)resent pust liclluiti era of lU'odigality and lueteuee has passed away, we may liope
to see these mountain jieaks ancl ^orj^es enliveui<l by jiarties of siinimer ramblers
who will i^^aiti healtli and stn ;.;,dli from insjiirin;,' walks in tlie jmre, sweet air.
Tliegeidry of Old Kn^laml, witli tlieir ladies, ari' fond of passinj^' thus 1hrouj,di tlio
Swiss Alps or tlu' Scottish Hi^'hlands, and wiien the people here shall adojit this
mode of sunnner travel, the physical cidture of New England will reach a higher
standard. Many adinirai)le jpedestrian routes may be made throu^jh the White
Mts., but the tourist should havejileidy of time, and be well ami lightly eipiipped
(sec introduction, IV.) A good lield-glass will be found of essential service.

I !

I.i

;:mi

The White Mts. wero called Agioeliook ("Mts. of the Snowy Forehead and
Home of the Great Spirit") by some of the Indian tribes, and Kan Ran Vu^carty
("the continued likeness of a gull") by others. The Algoniiuins called them
SVaumbek (White Rock) or Wainnbeket-Methna, and the natives had the utmost
reverence for these mts., believing them to be the home and throne of the Great
Spirit. Hut rarely did the Hulians ascend the higher peaks, since it was reported
aiaong the tribes that no intruder upon these sacred heights was ever known to
leturn to his jieople. There was a legend thalthe (ireat Spirit once bore a blame-
less chief and his wife in a mighty whirlwind to the summit of Agioeliook, while
tlie wor!<l l»elow was overspread by a flood which destroyed all the peoi>le. A
wilder and more recent tradition is to the elleet that the great Passaconaway, the
wizard-king of the wide-spread I'eimacook eonfetleration (who ruled from altout
1(J20 to lUUO). was wont to commune with celestial messengers on the sumnnt of
Agiocho(tk, whence lie was linally borne to heaven in a flaming chariot. Some
authorities claim that a ]iarty of Knglishmen visited tliese nds. in KJiJl -2, buttlio
latest historians credit their discovery to Darby Field, who came up from the
coast in 1G42. The Indian villagers at l'e(inawket(Fryeburg) earnestly endeavored
to dissuade him from the ascent, telling him that he would never return alive.
But he pressed on Avith his two sea-shore Indians, jiassing through cloud-lwidcs
and storms until he reached the last peak, whence lie saw "the sea by Saco, the
gulf i>f Canada, and the great kike Canada River came out of." He found many
crystals here, which he thought were diamonds, and from which the chain long
bore the name of " the Chrystall Hills." Tradition says that in 17Go a party of
of Rogei-s' Rangers, retreating from St. Francis, were led up Israel's River into
these deflles by a treacherous Indian guide, and all of them died excci.t one, who
reached the settlements with his knapsack lilled with human flesh. It was said

NoKl'U coNWAV

Ji'.nl, .L

'2i:\

f I

that this pui-ty liore tlie greiit silver iiiia^'c talccii from the rhurch nt St. FriiK-i^,
nn«l Hcvontl of thn (Miiv nutilfrs nuulf cariHwt <|iii'st iil'ti-r thin sfxniil ri-lic. A
slioi't Ic^fii'laiy • ra IiHuwimI, .ukI tlii'ii tlif pinnicr ruldiii^ts l>e,'iiii l<' iiii>\(> <.jt,i
the oiitlvin;,' -'itiis. In 1771 tlii' Nntdi wis ilisc ivnc I ; in 17:»-' Alirl Crawfniil
lived nil tli'> (iianl'H Oravf ; in ISn:! a sin ill t iv-i ii \v h Imilt tUfTc : ainl in .liily.
18J0, a party •••" scvfii pMillnnrii .sii-pt <i:i lln' siiimiiif nl' Mf \Vasliin;;tiin, ami
piv«' tiic iiaiiics wliirli tin; iniin'ip-il jicaks still lnvir. In Isp.i ihcliist l)ri<llc-pafli
to tilt' ^niiiinit was cut, ami ii small stone hut was erected near that point. Tiie
Siiniinit House was Imilt in IS.VJ, and the Tip-Toii llmse was completed shortly
itller. In Sci>tciiilier, is,'),",, a siii,dl party starte.l one at'ternoon fo walk to tlin
Kiniiinit, and lieiii'.,' wiihotit a uuide ltei',iine hewildered and lost, and one yoini'4
lady died at niidninlit iroin cold and weariness. In the next Aii;.,'nst, u Del iwar«
^'entleui.in st.artcd fi'iim tlie (ileii without a iiuidc, in the afternoon, .ind di(>d near
the suininit from exiiosiire to a cold uii,'ht stm'm. L.itc in OcIoIht, ls")|,;i youir,;
I'in),dish jreiitleman asccnilcd al >ne from (hawford's to the summit, and fell fioin a
ure.it precipice into the Amnionoosuc Valley, where Ws maicdcd corpse was found.
For .soiiio years the sumniit has been occupied diiriii:.,' the winter as a station of
the nieteorolo;,'ieal dcpartiiient of the U. .S. Army, and the men on duty have vx-
lierieiiced the mo-t intense cold and wat<died terrific storms. The thermometer
(Fahrenheit) has disceinled to o'.i bi'luw zero, ami the winds have attiiineil a ve-
locity of 100 M. an hour.

" The ;;eol<iyical t'catnres of Mt. Washin^'ton possess Imt little Interest. Tho
rocks in place consist of a coarst; varii'ty of mic.i slate, passing into i,'nei->s, wliii-h
contains a few crystals of bl.ick tourmaline and quart/." Thei'one is covered with
blocks of mica slate The lloia of the upper region is iiearlyideiitic.il with tliat
of L'lbrador and Laplaml. "The period when the White Mts. ceased to bo ajjroup
of islands, or when, by the emer^^eme of the snrroiindiiijj h)vv land, they lirst, be-
came eonnecteil with the continent, is of very modern date, Ke'do;^'ically spcakin.i^."
(Sir Ciiaiu.ks Lvki.i,. ) Helow the broken iind distorted stratum of mica slato, the
vast musa of the luountaius is of granite.

North Conway.

Hotels. * Kiar.sar^'e House, .S.'jO-4ou ^'iicsts, Si. 00 a day, -a fiiio Ktriicturo,
with extensive jiarlors and tliniii,'-room, ,'iiid a !>'• )ad view from theeentr.il towtsr ;
*Sunset i'avilion, opposite the Hpiscoi>al cluircii ; Me.Milhin House, S, of the vil-
lage; Washington House; Kastmiu House; N. Conway House, in the village:
Intervale House, about •_' .M. N'., ii" ir Ml. Kiarsar:.,'e. There ,ire over 'JO lar;,'e sum-
mer boanliiiu'-liouses in and around N. Conway, most of which are comfortable
and ([iiiet. f heir prici;s raii;,'e tVoni s 7.00 to .>( IJ.oo a week.

Kuilroadii. Tlu; Ivistern lliilroad (sec Iloute ;!1) runs two cypress trains each
way daily (tliron'j;h tlic summer) between Boston and X. Conway, in •'> hours.
Distance, 1^7 M. ; faro, •'7O.O •. The trains leave Hostoii (timetable <tf 1S7-') at
8.10 A. M. and J .4 ) I'. M..aiid are provided with Pullm an ii.iilorcai.;. The l'.>rt-
laiul and O^densiiuii: Uiilroad runs three trains dailv each way (throich theiram-
mer) between I'orlliud.md N. Conway. Distance (lo .M., time li^ -:'. hoiir.i(se(> Houte
■$'.»), This line connects at I'ortland withstcaniiTs for B i.-itoii, and trains run W. from
N. Conway for IJ M., to Sawyer's it .ck, on the road to the White Mt. X .(cli.

Stages leave X. Conway I'orthi; Crawford House ami the Glen House (coune-t-
ing for Fi\uie(jnia and (Jorli.am) .it S A. .M. ami J 1'. M. Totlie (lieu Hons ■, iiO M.,
ui 5 hours ; fare, §3.00 ; to tin; Crawford House, 2'> M., in G-7 horns ; fare. {•:'.. 5').
Daily sta},'es leave W. Ossipee for Centre Harbor, on Luke Winnepesaukee.
Fare. $3..'j0.

Post Office and telci;ra)ih facilities are found in the vi]laL,'e ; earriagc-.j may bo
obtained at various livery-stables ; there are several stores wheie most necessary
articles may be obtained ; and there are three churches, liapt., Cong., and Epis.

North Conway is a pretty village, largely coiriiiu:ieil of hotels aii'l sum-
mer boarding-houses, situated on a natural terrace .30 ft. above the inler-
vales of the Saco River, which is about h M. distant. " On the W., the
long and noble Mote Mt. guards it; on the E., the rough, less lolly, ami
bending Rattlesnake Ridge helps to wall it in, - unattractive enouj^h in tlie

>' 1

'2'2\ Jiout>'Jj.

N OUT II CONWAY.

N'. ;

H..

p 1 ,' =

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ordinary dayliglit, but a great favorite of the setting sun, whicli i.U'liglil>. to
glorify it with Tyrian drajjeiy. On the S. W., Cliocorua manages to get
a pee}) of its lovely nicrjlows. Almost the whole line of the White Mts.
l)roper, crowned in the centre hy the (hmic of Mt. Washington, closes the

only 12 or !.'> M. distant liy the air. Mt.

view on the N. W. and N.
"Washington does not seem so much to .stand up, as to lie oat at ease aloiig
the North. The leonine grandi-ur is ihere, but it is the lion not erect, but
couchant, a little sl-epy, .stretching out his paws and enjoying tlu^ sun.

"The distinction of N. Cniiway is, that it is a large natural ].oem in
landscape, —a quotatif>n from Arcadia, or a suburl) of Paradise. And
then the sunsets of N. C'miway ! Ci h-ridge asked Mont Blanc if he
liad ' a charm to stay the niuiiiing star in Ids stee]> course.' It is time for
oo;ue poet to i)ut the (pu'stion to those Ijewitching, elm-sj)rinkled acres

that border the Saco, bv what sorcery th

Mico, ity wiiat sorcery tliey evoke, evening alter evening,
upon the heavens that watch tliem, such lavish and Italian bloom. Xay,
it is not Italian, for the basis of its beauty is ])ure blue, and the .skies of
Italy are not nearly so blue as those of New England. One sees more
clear sky in eight summer weeks in Conway, probably, tluiu in the com
pass of an Italian yi-ar." (Staku King.)

Mount Kiarsarge, or Pninawkct, is 3 M. from the village, and attains
a heiglit of o,'5G7 ft. above the sea. A bridle-path (horses .^ 2.00 and guides
.S2.()0 each) has been made to the summit, on which there is a small hotel.
The view frjm this jxnnt end)races the village and the valley of the
S.ico, with the great range of the Mote Mts. beyond, " its wooded wall
ui»rcare(l as if for the walk of some angel sentinel." In the N. and W.
is a vast throng of mountains, grouped " in relation to (he two great
centres, — the notched summit of Lafayette and the noble dome of Wash-
ington." Lafayette is N. of W., 28 - 30 M. distant, and is the loftiest of
the Francoina Mts. The view of Mt. Washington from Kiarsarge is one
of the best attainable, while in the opposite direction, 100 ]\1. S. W. it is
claimed that "the lilmy outline of Monadnock gleams like a sail just
fading out upon a vast sea." Sebago Lake, Pleasant Mt., Fryeburg vil-
lage, and Lovewell's Pond are seen in the S. E. ami E., together A'ith a
va't area of eastern Elaine. It is worth while to remain over night at the
hotel (§4.00 a day), to enjoy the gorgeous sunrise and sunset.

The Ledges are 3 M. from the village, beyond tin- Saco, where Mote Mt.
terminates in clilTs ranging from 100 to 9G0 ft. in height, and extending
nearly 5 il. The river is shallow and must be forded, as the fierce spring
Hoods render bridges imi)ossible. A curious formation of white rock
(looking like a horse dashing up) which was once visible on the clilfs (parts
of it are still seen from N. Conway), has caused the name of White Horse
Li'thje to be ajiplied to a part of these clilfs. The Cathedral is a
singular cavity in the rock (100 ft. above the river and easily reached) 20

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NORTH CONWAY.

Route 33. 225

ft. wide, 40 ft. long, and 60 ft. liigh, uljeve the ledgo liends owv in an
arch above, and several tall trees form the outer wall. " And truly the
waters, frosts, and storms tliat scooped .'uid grooved its rurvcs au<l niches,
seem to have combined in froli<' mimicry of Ootliic art. The whole front
of the recess is shaded Ity trees, which kindly stand apart just enough to
frame off Kiarsarge in lovely sjnnmctry, —so that a more ronumtic rest-
ing-place for an hour or two in a warm aftenioon <'an hardly be imagined."
Below the Cathedral is * Echo Lake, a beautifid little loch under the
shadow of the clifl's, which tlirow l)ack an echo over its tran((uil waters.
A little way N. of tlio Cathedral is a line d(nd>le fall, abo\o and below
which are several deej) basins in the solid rock, filled with sparkling
water, one of which is known as JHancCs Bath.

The Artists' Falls are in the forest 1^ M. E. of the village, and, though
insiginticant in themselves, are in combination witli beautiful group-
ings of rock and woodland scenery. The Artists' Lrdyr is some distance
S. of N. Conway, and cnnimands noble * views of the village and valley
with Mt. Washington looming fa'- above and l)eyond them. Chocorua is
seen in the S. E. across tlie level and luxuriant valley in which glimpses
are gained of the Swift and the Saco Rivers.

Excui-sions are made from N. Conway to Thoni Hill, 8 M. ; Dundee,
10 M. ; Sligo, 13 M. ; Joi'key Cap Mt. and Lovewell's I'on*l, in Fryelnirg,
11-13 M. ; Mount Cliocorua, 18 M. ; Goodrich and Jackson Falls, 0-9
H. ; " around the square," a favorite drive lu-ar Mt. Kiarsarge, f) M. ; and
up the naiTOW western valley to Swift River Falls, 18 M., with Chocorua
on the 1., Mote and Bear Mts. on the r., and Passaconaway in front.
Chninpni'i/s Falls are \ isited by this road, and are very beautiful in high
water.

K. Conway to the Glen House and Gorham.

Soon after leaving the village, the Cathedral Woods and Mr. Bigelow's
elegant cottage are passed on the r. and line views are afforded of tlie
upper intervales undistigured by railway trestles and eniljankments. Mt.
Kiarsarge, on the r., appears in constantly changing forms, as the Inter-
vale and Pequawket Houses are passed, and ojsposite the Kenison House
is a foot-jiath by which this " charming ])yra]iiid " is sometinas ascendtnl.
After the road crosses the East Branch of the Saco it bends to the W.
and affords a comprehensive view of the Conway valley. Shortly after
passing Stilphen's (under Cedar Mt.) a fine retrospective view of Kiar-
sarge is afforded. TJuirn Mt. is now seen on the r. and Iran Mt. on the
1. (in advance), and the road passes over Goodrich Falls, which may 1)0
viewed from the rocks on tlie r. bank, or, better still, fiom the shore
below (short but steep })ath). These falls are on the Ellis River, and are
the heaviest i:\ the mts. As the stage now passes along the Ellis River
lre(iuent glimpse.-; of the mts. appear, and Jaclcson City is soon reacheil.

■ I

226 Route 33.

(!LEN liOUrfH.

i ! \

Tliis "city "has two hotels, T ■ Jackson Ilinise ami Thoiii Mt. House
(!$ 10.00 a Aveck), witli iour or 1 ■ (hvcllings and a li.iptist church.

The Jackson jieoplo Vwcainc discontfiitrd diirinf,' the .Secession War, on account
of crushing taxes, and after some acts of violence on tlieir part, it was found
necessary to occupy the place with U. S. troops, who were (piartered in the chiireh.
Tiie town was settled in 1778, and in 17i'0 eaiiie L'apt. i'lidsham and live families
on snow-shoes and sledges. fSliortly alter, Daniel i'inkhani built a ru<le mad
throiij^h the notch which still licius his name, and the little settlement was called
New Madltury. In Is(m) this mtme was (handed to Adams, and iu lS-211, when
Adams and Jackson were candidates tor the I'residiiicy, and the latter received
every vote (except one) in the town, it took the name of Jackson.

Many rare minerals arc found hero, and tin-iuines have been worked or
one of tlie hills. This central plaza in thecilyof hills is much freijuented
in summer by artists, trout-fishers, and lovers of (juiet ami sequestered
scenery. Tlie Jackson Falls are close to the villaj,fe (seen from the bridge
over Wildcat Brook on the r.), and are very beautifid in high water. Iron
Mt. is 2,900 ft. high and looms up on the 1., while Tin Mt. is on the r.
Eaghj Mt. on the N. is rounded on the r. after leaving the village. Tlie
road now ascends through the thickening forest Avith the Ellis lliver on
the I., while occasional glimi)ses of tin; Carter Mt. are obtained on the r.
No lOuses arc seen in this desolate pass, and 7 ]M. beyond Jackson the
path to the Glen Ellis Fall is seen on the r. 4-5 JT. beyond ^wiih occa-
sional glimpses of Tu(;kernian's Ravine and tlie slopes of Mt. Washing-
ton), the spacious * Glen House is i-cachcd. This hotel accommodates
500 guests (.^ 4.50 aday), keei)s a band of music througli the summer, and
has a parlor and dining-room, each of which is 100 by 45 ft. in dimensions.
" The Glen House is at the veiy base of the monarch, and Adams, Jeffer-
son, Clay, and Madison bend around towards the E. with no lower hills
to obstruct the impressiou of their height." The Glen is 1,(532 ft. above
the sea, and S30 ft. above Gorhani and is watered by Peabody River and
surrounded by lofty peaks. On the E. is the l(»Mg daik ridge of the
forest-'^overed Carter Mt., and on the W. is the noble brotherhood of the
five chief peaks of New England. Mt. Madison {5,:3t)l ft.) is 4 M. N. W.
in an air-line, and next in the majestic group comes the sharp and sym-
metrical ])yramid of Mt. Adams (5,800 ft.). The massive crest of Mt.
Jefferson (5,700 ft.) comes next, then Mt. Clay (5,400 ft.), and S. E. of
the hotel the summit of Mt. Washington (»>,2S5 ft.) is seen peering over
lofty spurs and secondary peaks. " MAJ. Clay Washington " is .a for-
mula whicli fixes in the ndnd the order of these mountains. A V)etter view
is obtained by ascending for a few hundred frt't the mt. behind the hotel,

Thompson's Falls are about 2 M. S. W. of the Glen House, and a
guide-board on the 1. shows the ])oint where the N. Conway road is
(juitted, and a forest-path is entered. The falls are \ M. from the road,
and the brook may be followed up for a considerable distance, the walk
affording grand retrospective views of Mt. Washington and Tr.i '- :«:.:'.i'it

CIORIIAM.

Route 33. 227

llaviiie. Not far from these falls is the quii^t and scfludi'd 1>asiii oalli'il
the Eiiierahl Ponl.

Tlie * Crystal Cascade is gained hy a patli leadinj^ from the road into
the forest to the 1., about 1 M. beyond Tlioinpson's Falls, Tlicre is abont
^ hour of continuous ascent to the fall, whicli is near the mouth of Tuck-
cnnan's Ravine, and is best seen from a high and moss-covered k'(lgo
oj)i)Osite.

"Down it cniiu's, leaping, slidin;;;, trii)pinj,', widening,' its jmrc tido, and then
pitlicriii}^ its thin sheet to ynsh tlwoujili a ]iani>\viii!,' pass in tiio n)ci<s, — all th(»
way tliiis, fri»in under the sheer walls of Tiirlveriiiau's liaviiie, some miles above,
till it reaelies the curve opj)osite the jioiiit on which we stand, .'inil winding;
around it, sweei)S down the hendin;^ stairway, shatterin;,' its substanee into ex-
(jnisite crystal, but sending,' oft' enouu'h water to t!ie ri.v'ht side of its patli to slip
ami trickle over the lovely, dark-j^Tcen mossi-s that clin;,' to the ^Tay and piiriili"
rocks. We never look at the Crystal Cascade without reverinj; and n'JoicinLt over
tlie ])()etry with which nature invests the birth of so common a thin,^' as water,"

Along and difficult ascent along tiie brook-bank leads into Tuckerman's Havine.
The Cascade falls about 80 ft.

The *61en Ellis Fall is about 4 M. from the Glen llnu^it, and is
piined by a plaidc-walk turnin:'' to the 1. from the N. Conway road iii'i
the forest. Tliis is the finest fall in the mts., ami tlie lOllis Itivcr hero
l)lunges down 60 ft. in one thick white mass, half svnik in a dcej) chauntd
■svhich it has cut in the cliff. The steep fall of (?0 ft, U ittrfiiced b)' a
descent of '20 ft. at a sharp angle. From the top id' the clill" one soo:4
"the slide .and foam of the narrow and concentrateil cataracl In whci'e It
spUssh«~v into the dark green pool. 1()0 ft. below." A belter \|ew of this
*' l>t>art of mt. wil<(lncss " is gained by (lescending ii long series of rudo
S4re|»i5 to the edgt' of the jhv.I below thi^ fall. " It is feminine and maid-
««ly grace that is iUustrate*! V»y the Crystal Casca<le ; it is masculino
youth, the spirit of heroic adventure, that is suggested by this stream."

The Garwpt Podls are 1 M. N, of tlie Glen House, ne.-ir the Gorliam
road, and show some curious rock-* arving in the l)ed of the PculMidy
River. Ak)Ut l.V M. beyoml, by crossing the bridsre to the 1., Ilin point
is reache<.l (near a farmhouse) where tlie singula.- appearance of a dis-
torted human face is seen on a peak of Imp Mt. t^rham is 8 M. N. 10,
of the Glen House, with which it is connected by semi-ilaily stages (fare,
$1.50) running down the valley of the Peabody River, with Imp Mt. and
Mts. Moriah and Surprise on the r.

'^1

■.

Gorham,

;«:,:!i It

Hotclg. Ciorham House ; Eaglo House ; the great -Mpine House was burned,
in (t. tuber, lS7-_>.

Stages to the Glen House semi-daily, ^lountain wa'jons run Ir,' pmnllv, but
irre-ulirly, l>y tlie Cherry Mt. road to the Ciawford and .Mt. \V,isliin4toii House;.

Kailroail. The (fraud Tr\nd< Railway runs to Portland ('.U .M.) in ll -.') hoius.
Hv taking the train to Noilhnmljerland (HI .M. N. W.), a connection is made with
the B. C. & M, and White Mts. U. U., rmuung to Lancaster and Mttleton (ll.jiilu

^:i'ifeaeawrrfm»

228 Route 33.

GORIIAM.

i ,1

I. I i

V ■

l' t

Gorliaiii in a lliri\iiig village at the eoiifluence of the Peahody and An-
flrosc( )<,'<,'! n Kivers, on the N. side of the Wliite Mts. and 8fMj ft. al)()ve
the sea. It has been almost eiifiivly created Ity the Grand Trunk Kail-
way, which has its i\'])air-shoi)s licre. " For livcr .scenery c<»nil)iiied witli
impressive ml. forms, IIk; imni('(liate vicinity of (Joiham Kurjiasscs all the
other districts from whi(;h the higliest peaks !ire visible,"

* Mt. Hayes is just N. E. of Gorhani, and attains a height of 2,500 ft.

Tlie Androscoggin is crossed near the hotels by a suspension foot-bridge,

225 ft. long, remarkabh; as the vork of one man (a hard-working villager),

who conceived the work ii'id executed it alone. He has also madt; a piilh

to the summit of the mt. (the ascent reipiire.s 2 hours). The view is tinis

described : —

" Tlio rich upland of RaiKlolpli, over wliidi tlie rid^jcs of Madison and Adams
lieavc t()\var<lH tlic S., liist. liolils the eye. Next tlie Kiii^'uiar curve in tlie lihiu
Andrt)sc(i^:^,'in around the Lary farm, aniiini; lil\e a h.)\v diawn taut. Dnwn tins
valii'y Shellmnie, (iilead, W. liethel, and IJetiwl, were laid into the landsca)ie with
rich mosaics of ^rove and ;,'rass and lijienin^' s-^iain, - uee<iin;.; ,i ln'ush dip|M'd in
molten ojial to jiaint tlieir wavy, tremulous lieauty. Directly opiiosite, secniin;;ly
only an airow-sliot's distaine, were the russet ravines of Moriali and the shadow-
CooIihI stairways of Carter." Mt. Wa.shin^don is .seen to best advanta;;e fii>m tins
point, — " Mt. Hayes is the chair .set by the Creator at tlie jiroper distance and
angle to appreciate and enjoy Jii.s kiii.uly prominence."

* Mt. Surprise is a peak of Morian about 1,200 ft. above Gorham,
lying H, I'], of the village, with a bi idle-path leading through a fine foreit
to its sunnnit (2/, M. frf)m the IioIcIh.) Horses are easily obtained, but
good walkeis c/ui niik(; the ascenl on foot in S'O ndnutes. This jicak
nusfains the sanu* relation lo Ihe j'iidvham Motch as Mt. Willard does to
tho {JriVWfnrd Notch. Looking dp the i)ass, Mt. Carter is seen on the 1.,
and the live prcHJdenllal pefjks on the r., with Madison, ''the Apollo of
the higldiinds," boldly advanced. O/i the H,, In Ktro/igest contrast, are
the sweet and fertile lowlands of the Androscoggin, with their jieaceful
fai'nis and pastoral beauty. An almost obliterated old Inidle-path leads
from this crest to the summit of Mt. Moriah, 4,700 ft. afK>v« the sea.
This peak is rarely visited, but is sai<l to command a nobl* view.

Jhoiiftifj/h Hill is 5 M. W. of the village, and it« «umniit i>- x»J'**^ l>y a
road that rises f>0(i ft. on the way. From the roa^ and the WH-to|> are
gained the noblest *pros](ects of tlic northern slopes, lines, and peak« of
the presidential group, e.xpecially of Ma^lisou awl A/lam«,

Hileail is 10-12 M. from Gorham, and the <lrive Ihither is verf
pleasant, being alongside the river, with ever-changing hilW-enery on
either hand. The Leml-Mine Jirldi/c is i M. E. of Gorham, near a®
abandoned mine, aud is celebrated for its afternoon and sunset views.
This point should be visited between f) and 7 P. M. Madison, Adams,
and Washington at that hour become "volcano-pictures," while the n<'arer
summits of Moriah, Hayes, and Baldcap form their heavily outlined
framewoik.

JEFFKRSOX II II. I

Piouic .11. 229

1(1 An-

ubove
L Hail-
ed with

all the

,500 ft.

ill;i;j;('r),
J a I'ii'ili
! is thus

(1 Adiiius

the Miio

)o\vn thi!

(lUijicd ill
scftiiiii^^ly
(. sliinluw-
fioiii tliis
tiuae and

Gorhaiu,
ine loll' 't
liiK'd, liut
his lU'ak
I (hu's to
u the 1.,
,\ polio of
litrast, are
■ jicareful
lalh U'.kIs
the sta.

,111,- 't hy a

M V.H of

is very

iicvy on
111, near ii«
list't view.s.
iMi, Adiinis,
llu'ii'-ari!!-
oulliiit'd

*^ Berlin Falls arc •') M. N. of Gorham hy a jdcasaiit rivor-road (or hy
the railway). The Androscoggin Ilivcr licre pours tlie wati-rs of tho
distant Unibagog and Kangeh'y Lakes in "a rlcaii an<l powt-Hul lilc
througli a narrow granite i)ass, dcsrcnding nearly '2nO ft. in llu! courst^ of ji
mile. We do not think that in New F.ngland there is any passage of river
pas.sion that will conipare with the Berlin Falls, How madly it hurls
tliedeep transparent amlier down the i)as.s and over the boulders^ — Hying
ami roaring like a drove of young lions, crowding each other in furious
rush after prey in sight." The best view is from the rooks near the stre:i;u
below the falls, Avhih! the cataract is seen in niiil-careei- from a bridge ov.u'
the gorge. Near this jxiint is the Jjerliu ludU J/m/se.

From Gorham to the Notch,
by way of the Waundtek House, is 32-34 M., and the ronrl is viclicr .;i
scenery than any other in the mts. No stages run on this routi-, bit
wagons and drivers can be obtained at Gorham. The vast and tmcdii-
cealed ranges of the live gre.'it mts. are seen for mile after ndle in their
most imposing forms. " First Madison and Adams come into view, a'l I
we drive directly by their base ami under their summits in i)assing over
Randolph Hill." Beyond the deep ravine in the side of Adams the eastt 1-
lated peak of JefTerson is seen, and soon after Mts. Pleasant, Fi'anklhi,
and Monroe come into view. From Martin's, 13 M. from Gorham, Mt.
Clay is visible, and just beyond is the majestic head of Wasinngton.
Near a little red school-house in this vicinity, George L. Brown painte I
his masterpiece, "The Crown of New Fingland,' now owned by th;;
Prince of Wales. 16 - 18 M. from Gorham is Jeffrrsini hill, " the tdtuit t
thvlc of grandeur in an artist's pilgrimage among the N. 11. Mts., for at
no other point can be seen the WIdte Mts. in such airay and force." Tlie,
* WdHinbck House is situated here, and commands su])erb views of t!ie
great peaks in the S. E. " For grandeur .ind for opportunities of study-
ing the wildness and Tiiajesty of the sovereign range, the Cherry Mountain
route is without a rival in New Hami)shire," said Thomas Starr King, Ihi
gifted Unitarian divine, who wrote the adndrable book called "The Whi.vi
Hills." Mr. King died at San Francisco in 18G4, and his noblest (visibl;)
monument is Mt. Starr King, E. of Jefferson. From the hotel or villagj
the bold and majestic White Mts. loom up in tlie S. E. , and a lield-glas.j
shows the trains moving up Mt. Washington, ami the hotels on ils sum-
mit. Cherry Mt. DIls the S., while in the S. W. is the Fi'anconia Lliing!*,
■with Lafayette proudly pre-eminent. In the W. are the pleasant meadows
which border the Connecticut Kiver, and beyond them some of the
Vermont liills are seen. Jefferson Hill is 7 M. from Lancaster, lo M.
frf)|n Whiti^lield ; 15 M. from Dalton ; and 33 M. from the I'rofile House,
lie road to the Notch (16 M, distant) runs S. from the Wanmlielc

K .

• I.

230 Jionfy.U.

UIM'HIl liNKTI.HTT.

House, Hiul "for 5 M. fioin this point o\>-v the .lefTcison nuwlows, in
travcllin;; towanls tlic Notch, wc riflu in lull view of every suniniit of thu
•;haiii, sfcinj^ \V;i>hiiij,'tiin in tli • conire (hMuinant over all." Tlic jiassa-^^e
of Cherry Mt. is cll'ccte.l hy n vow^h nii'l te<li()iis road, aii<l the \\'/i{f<' Mt.
House is niachetl, after which I hi- new Fnhnun Htnuse is passed, tlio
AniinonooHUC lliver is crossed, and tiie (carriage reaches the t'rair/onl
House.

There is a shorter rn id tliaii this, between Gorliani and the Notch, and
travellers who wisli to go l>y .Ictferson Hill shonld havt; the fact under-
stood. This loiih! can he taken from the (Jlen House, without going to
CJorhanj, by turning to the 1. from the (Jorham road about 2^ M. N. of
the (Hen House, passing around the base of Madison, and entering the
Cherry Mt. road near Kandolph Hill,

}

1 1

N. Conway to the Notch.

The route is the same as that to the Glen House as far as Bartlett
Corner, where the Notch road diverges to the W., and crosses in succes-
sion the Ellis River, the Rocky Rraiu'i, and the Saco River. The latter
stream is followed u]) to its bi.lhplao", hiding, at first, through a glen
between the Mote Mts. on the 1. and Stanton Mt. on the r. After crosf>
ing the Rocky Branch, the Wliite Ledge is rounded on the r. at the E.
end of Stanton Mt. Mt. Carrigain looms up far ahead with its tri])lc peaks
(the highest of which rises 4,800 ft,), and the road ]nisses over narrow
intervales, with a fine retrospect of Kiarsarge. The Chapel of the Hills
(a neat b'ttlo church (h'dicated in 18.54) is passed on the 1., and then the
U2>2)cr Jlarth'tt Jlmi.'^e, where passengers l)y the moniing stages take
dinner. This rude glen was .st '.tied in 1777, and in 17!'t> was named in
honor of Josiah fUirtlett, a signer of the Declaration of Independence, and
at that time ['resident of N. II. The Portland and Ogdensburg Railroad
is now being built through the Notch, and will, at no distant day, meet
the section of track which is b^'ing laid from St. Johnsl)ury (V'ermont)
towards the mts. Trains will run in the summer of 1873, from Portland
and N. Conway to Upper Bartlett. Its tei'.ii»orary terminus is near the
great ledge running out to the road (v>u the 1.), known as Hawifer's Ruck.

A solitary hunter iiaiiii'd Nasli, wliile chasing a moose on Clierry Mt., saw the
Notcli niii'iiiiij;- tlnniiiili tlic mts., and > ntcrcil and expldred it. llr cniiccivcd tl it
a road could lie uiadc tlndui^li this jir.ss to couiH'ct tiie uinnT C'oo.s country with
the eoust, with wliich its ('oiinuunii atioii was llicn nuidi' iiy a lou;,' littour around
the mts. He iciuntcd his discovery to Gov. Wcutwiuth (in 177."0. ^^1'" told him
that if he would ;j;t't a liorsc tl':'iu^di the jiass, he wouM jiive hiiu a ' "j,'e grant of
land. Nash then secured the ai(l of anotlier luniter named Sawyer, and they
hauleil a Imrsc through, lowcriu,:; hiui over elills and diiviug hiui 'uough tlie
rivei', until they enu'T-ied here 'I'lieii .Sawyer drained tiie rnui fr<jh. his Imttle,
and Indke it against the ledge, \vhi(di he named .Sawyer's Kock. .\ road was
Imilt "with the neat jMoceeils ol' a eonliseated estate," and the lirsL a.rtiide of
('(xis produce sei!t flown through the Notch was a bariel of tobacco, v.liiie the
Urst inerehandise sent up liom the coast was a barrel of nun.

tl,
tl)

THE NOTCH.

H>mle33. 231

vs, in
.»■ the

,• ML
\, tl:0
irjoi'd

h, nn<l

UlultT-
)U)g to
, N. of
inp the

Bartlctt

SUCCt'S-

10 laliev
I a K^t'n
;er crosr;-
t tlu". K.

■ narrow

;he uniK

then the

.rrcS take

lained in
Ifucc, and
Uaih'oatl
ay, meet
crmout)
Porthiud
near the
rb Rock.

_ ^ saw the
i-i'ivcdtl it
luutry Willi
li(ir aroinid
tdl'l I'i")
I;,' grant of
, aiul tla'y
Ji rough the
|Uis bottle,
road was
iutiilo of
I whiU' tlie

Rounding Ifarf^n Lfihfe ilic road new turns tn tlic N. and or<>ss«s
Sawyer's lliver, which Iion its sDurce in Ih'uiis I'ond, \-U ^^. disi iiit, a
locality famous for trout. Sf»on aftur, Xcurj/'.n Jironk is cro.vsed l>y n
hrid-'" tlirowu over a rciiiarkahio ravine 2<>0 ft. Innj;, -*' ft. wide, and 35
ft. docp. This prctly Iti-uolc rises in a h)iicly nii»uiitain tarn uhout "J.^ M.
from the road, and is named for a hu-klt-ss maiden who walked one « old
afternoon or nij^'ht from liancastcrtothis point in pursuit of a fait hlc^sshtvcr.
Wet, chilh'd, and (h-athly woary, sljo .sat (h>wn by a tree nc.jr tliis hrook,
and was tliere found frozen to (h'atli. Just Ix'yond this jihice, on Ww. I.,
is seen the t^ravc of Abel Crawford, " Uiv ])atiiarch of the motnitains," a
jiioneer and itioiuitain-truidi! of many years a^'o. After passing:; the Aft.
C'rair/ord House, Mts. Crawford and Uesolution and the Giant's Stairs
are seen on the r., the latter toweriii}^ in broken masses to tlie hei;;ht of,
r>,ijOO ft. The forest now closes lu on tlie roa.'., whidi crosses the Saco
near the foot of the (iiant's Stairs, and rei rosses it aluuit a ndle l)eyond,
with a line view up the h)n;.:, (h'ej) gorj/e to tlu< r. Turning now io tlio
N. W. the road enters the Notch, with the vast mass of Mt. Webster on
the r., towering to a lieiglit of 1,000 ft., and Will.y Mt. on the I. Passinf?
over the tree-grown fragments of the mt. which have fallen in long-past
avalanches, the WilL-y House is reached.

The great amount of travel fhnni;,di tlie Notch in winter, caused by the Coos
rnaners carryinj^ tlii'ir produee, to tiie eastern towns, renilere(l a lioted liere very
rlesiralilo. So this JKaise was Ijuilt al)out l.^JO (Siiauldiiij,' says in 17',i;!), and was
octaijiied in is^T) by .Mr. Willi'V. in Angu.^t, IS-JO, altera lonj^ drou;,'lit the mts. wer •■
as.sailed l)y a furious .storm, .vliiclj caused the rivor to rise rajiidly, and durini^ tliw
nijihtan enonnon.s mass (if earth, rocks, and trocs slid froiu .Mt. Willey into tiitj
valley. Tliis avalanelio w.i- piit by a siiii'.p ledge bark uf the hou.se, and (lowed
on both sides without hail, ig it. lUit the family had left the lioust; (prolialily
fearing the swelling ti>rrentof the .Saeo), and. tK'in,c soniewliere In the trat i; of the
slide, every persou wa.s killed. Mr. and M'v. Willey and their ."> ■ liildren, witli 2
hired nit>n, ilied on that fatal ni;^ht, and (J ol the bodies were fouml, ^adlN nuiti-
lated, J'lie house has been oeeupied sin(^o 18"J7, and is shown to V'sitors for a
small fee. During storms roeUs are sometimes seen plunging ilowu from the
oi)i)osite elitl's of Att. Webster. In 174^!, when a i>arty of llant;ers were marching
throu,u;li a valley near the more southerly of the White Jits, they were alarmed liy
sounds like volleys of musketry among the detiles. Skirnnshin;.,' jiarties of scouts
were sent in, who discovered that the noi.se was caused i)y fal ing rocks.

After leaving the Willey House, the road a-scends slowly for 3 V,.,
passes through the narrow Gate of tlie Notch, and stops ut the * Crawford
House. This is a ia.ge and eh;gant .summer hotel, with accommodations
for 250 guests, at $ 4.f>0 a day. It is situated on a platc^au 2,000 ft. above
the sea, and faces the Notch. Near the house arc two .spi'ings within
.stone's-throw of each other, the waters of one; of which pass to the sea by
the Connecticut River, while the other empties into the Sa(;o, and reaches
the ocean on the coast of Maine. There is a pretty lakelet near the Gate
of the Notch, whence Hows the young Saco River.

Mt. Willard is easily ascended from this point by a carriage-road 'J .M.
long, and tho walk upward through this forest avenue is full of pli:as\ire.

^'\

' ' V.

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-S)

1.0

I.I

1.25

If 1^ i^

1.4

1.6

Photographic

Sciences
Corporation

23 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580

(71b) 872-4S03

4?..

y ,. mj-

232 Route 33.

CUAWFORD HOUSE.

» ;»'

■! f

M '
■ (

I: .

f ••

lit

'li

• ti

' It

' ff

i h

The •* view down the Notch is wonderful, embracing two Titanic nit.
walls, beginning with Webster on the 1. and Willey on the r., and running
S. for leagues, with haughty Chocorua, 18-20 M. away, closing the vista.
The highway down this wild pass is marked by a slender line througli the
forest, and the Willey House is a mere dot on its ruin-swei)t lowlands.
Bayard Taylor says of this view, "As a simple iiicture of a mountain-
pas!), seen from above, it cannot be surj)assed in all Switzerland." Look-
ing off to the N. E., the great peaks of the Mt. Washington group are
seen, with Clinton first and nearest, and Jackson on the iijjper end ol" Jit.
Webster. *' And let us again advise visitors to ascend Mt. Willard, if
possible, late in the afternoon. They will then see one long wall of the
Notch in shadow, and can watch it move slowly up the curves of the
opposite .side, displacing the yellow splendor, while the dim green dome
of Washington is gilded by the .sinkuig sun ' with heavenly alchemy.' "
(Starr King.)

The Flunie r ■ ' the Silver Cascade are visited by passing through the
narrow and ragged-walled Gate of the Notch, and a))Out ^ M, from the
hotel turning into the forest to the 1. by a little brook. A series of long
cascade;: lies along the slope above, and near the road is a deep and nar-
row cleft in the rock, through which the waters tlov/. A long scramble
over rocky ledgt^s and up the course of the laughing water leads to the
base of the * Silver Cascade, the finest fall on the ^^^ of the mts. The
brook falls 80t) ft. within a mile, and after a heavy rain exhibits a mag-
nificent effect. Near the bridge it flows through a narrow flume, and soon
enters the Saco.

The * Sylvan Clade Cataract is 6 - 7 M. from the hotel, and is gained
by following np Avalanche Brook (the second which the road crosses S.
of the Willey IIou.se), About 2 M. from the rcnid, in a granite -walled
ravine, the brook fails 25-30 ft. in 4 leaps, and then forms a cascade 150
ft. long, slipping over inclintd ledges of granite into a deep pool ])elow.
About 1 M. higher is the SjjarkUng Cascade. These falls were discovered
in 1858.

Gibbs's Falls are near the hotel, and are found by following up the
aquetluct from the stables, and t'aen the brook to which it leads. 10-15
minutes' walk up stream brings one to a pretty fall of about 30 ft,, with
pleasing forest accessories,

Beecher's Falls are on the slope of Mt. Lincoln, to the r, of the hotel,
and are gained by a good forest-path, Tlie Falls extend for a long dis-
tance up the brook, aiid from the uppermost of them a fine view of Mt,
Washington is disclosed, Tlie DeviVs Den is a dark cjivern seen from thu
Notch road, near the summit of Mt, Willard, Pulpit Rock is on the r,
of the road, near the Gate of the Notch, and several rock-profiles have
been seen on the adjacent cliffs.

IS i

I !,

' A

GORIIAM.

Iloutc 33. 233

nic mt.
running
je vista.
lUgh the
)\vl:in(ls.
ountaiu-
Look-
[•onp arc
(I or Mt.
lllavd, if
U of the
■s of the
sen dome
;lieniy."'

ongh the
from the
b of long
) and nar-
scranible
ids to the
nts. The
ts a niag-
, and soon

is gained
crosses S.
ite-waUed
iscade 150
?ol helow.
discovered

ng xip the
10-15
ft., with

the liotel,
long dis-

ew of IMt.

xi from tha
on the r.

otiles have

Stages from the >.'rawford House to Bethlehem, $2.50; to N. Conw.iy, 83.50;
to the moontain-railway, !!^2.50 ; and to the Gh'ii House, $5.00. Tlie h.tter n^iitt*
runs to Barthtt on the road to N. Conway, and at tliat jiuiiit enters the roatl Iroui
N. Conway to tlie Ghni House. Fare to Boston, by stage to N. Conway and rail-
road to Boston, §8.50.

The Crawford House to the Profile House.

Daily stages in 26^ M. Fare, .§ 4.00. After leaving the hotel, tlie road
entei-s a dense forest, where it is " Uiore pleasantly bordered with foliage
than any other among the hills." On leaving this forest, a broad upland
]>hiin is entered, and the stage ai)proaclies the great new hotel on the
GianVs Grave.

The new * Fabyan Hcise is 5 M. N. of the Notch, and ac(>onrr.io-
dates 500 guests. It was built in 1872, and is 4 stories high, with a
frontage of 330 ft. This imi)osing structure is built on tlie Giant's Grave,
a tall mound near the Ammonoosuc River. According to tradition, an
Indian once stood here at night, and swinging a torch lit from a lightning-
struck tree, cried, " No i)ale-face shall take deep root here ; this the
Great Spint whispered in my ear." A tavern was opened here about
1803, and in 1819 it was l)urnt, while the same fat'3 befell another erected
on its site, and Fabyan's large hotel, at the foot of the mound, was also
burnt. Tlie new hotel is larger, stronger, and better ])rotected than its
predecessors, and will probably remain, Ethan Allen Crawford, " Ethan
of the Hills," a gigantic hunter and guide, lived on the Giant's Grave
many years ago, and waged war on the wolves, wild-cats, bears, sables,
and otters that dwelt among the surrounding 1 ills ami brooks.

The view from tliit^ point is very line, and embraces all the presi<lential
peaks save one, the summit of Mt. Washington being 7.^ M. distant in an
air-line. The other summits stretch toward th.e hotel in a long and rugged
chain. From this point the ascent of Mt. Washington by rail is easily
made. The Upper Ammonoosuc Falls are 3 - 4 M. from the hotel, by the
road to Marshfield, and exhibit a beautiful scene, where white waters
dash down between gray granite walls, and the vast nits, tower beyond.
The Lower Ammonoosuc Falls are somewh-?t more than 1 M. distant, on
the Bethlehem road. The river descends here \\. full stream over 30 ft.
of step-like ledges, but the natural beauty of the scene has been marred
by the intrusion of a large lumocr-mill.

The White Mt. Ilinise (.$2.50 a day) is an olil and well-famed hotel at
the junction of the Cherry Mt. and Bethlehem roads, less than 1 M. N.
W. of the great Fabyan House. Tlie vicinity abounds in pleasant walks,
especially those along the Ammonoosuc, while the sunset views from the
hills are of famed attractiveness.

Tlie * Twin Mt. House is 5 M. westward from the Fabyan House, and
is a favorite new ho^el, under the care of the Messrs. BaiTon, proprietors
of the White Ri\er Jiuiction and Crawford Houses. It is pleasantly

! M

IH:

I >

I !

: i lit

^ Ml
» . 1,

i t

III;

234 Rouie33.

MOUNT WASHINGTON.

situated on the lieiglits al.'ovc the Ammonoos.ic River, and looks across
tlic valU'y to the bold peaks of Twin Mt. The l)ran('h railroad which
leaves the B., C, & M. K. R, \Route 30) at Wing Road, has its present
terminus at this hotel (it is to be extended, eventually, to the Animonoo-
suc station of the Mt. Washington Railway). The Twin Mt. House is 9
M. from the C'rawford House ; 10 M, from the mt. railway; 11 M. from
the Waumbck House ; and 17 M. from the Prolile House. Stages run to
all these points, except die Waumbek House.

Beyond the Twin Mt. House the road follows the Ammonoosuc River,
and in about 5 M. ascends the rolling ridges of Bethlehem, from which
fine prospects of the loltier mts. are given. Between Bethlehem station
(on the l)ranch track) and the village, the stage passes the neat little
Maplcwood Hotel (§ 3.00 a day, $ 14.00 a week). Bethlehem (* Sinclair
House, and several large boarding-houses) is a pretty higldand village,
which connnands, down the Ammonoosuc valley, one of the finest distant
views of the White Mts. Tliis toM-n was settled in 1790, and the first
comers suffered great hardships, being obliged for months to subsist on
herbs and roots from the forests and fields. Bethlehem is 5 M. from
Littleton ; 17 M. from the White Mt. Notch ; 10 M. from the Profile
House ; and 22}? M. from Mt. Washington.

Beyond Bethleliem, the road (a very bad one) ascends a long hill, afford-
ing fine retrospects, and when its summit is gained the great *Franconia
Range is seen in front. A deep valley is now crossed, the new Lofayetfc
House is passed (about 5 M. from Bethlehem), and after a long ascent the
stage reaches the Ptofde House (see Route 34).

Mount Washington.

Travellers who design to asccinl this mt. should be careful to carry sufTicicnt
warm clothing (shawls, ovorcoals, «&f.), for Mie air on the summit is often ex-
tremely cold, even in August. Daniel Webster said here. "Mt. Washington, I
have conic a long distance, have toiled hard to arrive at your summit, and now
you seem to give me a cold reception." There are many who will echo these
words. If the ascent from the Crawford House or from Randolph Hill is under-
taken, a reliable guide must bo secured, ami an early start sliould be niade. The
view IVom the summit cannot be conlidcntly counted U])on, sinrc the mt. is often
enveloped in suddenly rising fogs, and the days when the remote points of view
are visible are very few. A powerful field-glass will be iound of material assist-
ance.

The older hotels (the Summit and thoTip-Toj) Houses) still remain on the narrow
crest, and the railway t-ompany has ivcently ereeted a new hotel of considerable
capacity and with good acconnnoilations.

The ascent bji rdihraii. The terminal station on the plain is at Ammonoosuc
station (small liotel), to whirh morning an<l afternoon stages run from the Craw-
lord House (10 M. ; fare, 8*2.50, there and back, ^4.00) ; from the Twin Mt. House
(U M. ; Ian', !? "2.50, there and baek, .S4.00); and from the new Fabyan House
(6-0 M-). From the opening of the seas(m until July 2oth, trains leave Anuno-
noosue at l(t.:<0 a. 5i., returning at 2 p. m. From July 20th, until the elose of
the season, an additional train is put on, leaving at 5.H(t P. M.. and returning at 8
the following morning (time-talile of 1872). The fare is §3.00 for the ascent or
descent, and s4.00 for both. 'J'riuiks must bo paid for as freight.

MOUNT WASHINGTON.

Route ;ii. 235

across
. wliich
present
inonoo-
ise is 9
VI. from
i run to

[) River,
n ^vllich
L station
;at little
Sinclair

village,
t distant
the first
\l)sist on

M. from
le Profile

11, aflford-
ranconia

Lofnyette
scent the

sufTicient
(ilten ex-
tliingtoii, I
I, and nov/
icho tliesn
is under-
liado. Tl,e
]t. is oftt'ti

Its <>f Vk'NV

•iid ussist-

heiian-ew
tusiderablc

liiuonoosuc
Itlie Craw-
iMt. House
j-an House
jve Animo-

liniiiij; at S
ascent or

This railway was built in 1866-9, on tlu' plans of Sylvester Mnrsh,
w)io has since constructed a similar load up Mount Rhij^'i, l)y the Lake of
Lucerne. Animonoosuc Station is 2,668 ft. above tlie .sea, and the track
ascends 3,625 ft. in 3 M., witli an average grade of 1 ft. in 4.^„ and a
maximum gra<le of 1 ft. in 2% or 1 *>80 ft. to the M. Tlie cliief peculiarity
of the track is a heavy notched iron centre-rail, into which i)hiys a centre
cog-wheel on the; locomotive. The steam-power is not used during the
descent, hut tlie powerful atmosi)lieric l)rakes regulate the spee<l of tli(!
train. The cars are very comfortable, and the ascent is made in 00
minutes, during which time it is pleasant to think tliat, though these
trains have been running for 5 years, not a single i>assenger has been
injured. As the train slowly ascends over the trestles, pushed by the
grotesque little engine, the retrospect becomes more and more beautiful,
and a profound and gloomy chasm is passed on the r. The ridge between
Clay and Washington is now attained, and an immense mt. amphitheatre
is pa.s.sed on the 1., soon after which the trahi crawls up Jacob's Ladder,
and stops at the new station and hotel on the sununit of Mt. Washington.

The. aacenf from the Ghn House. Mountain carria^ios leave the Olcn IIouso
morning and afteninon fortlio suiniuit, wliich is S M. tlistaut. The fare (inchidiiig
tiills) is ■'i^S.OO, and thi tinii^ of asc(<iit ."5 lirs., while the desci'ut is made in U lirs.
Tlie road (built ]8;>5- >\l) is a noble piece of en^'incering, winding on galleries and
long curves, with an average grade of 12 ft. in 100.

Most of the route to the Ledge (4 M. uj)) is enclosed by forests, but
beyond this point the road passes along the verge of the profound hollow
called the Great Gulf. From this })oint the * view is superb, embracing
the Peabody Glen, with the hotel lying like a snow-Hake at the base of
the heavy, green mass of Carter Mt. " Yet the glory of the Wew is, after
all, the four highest comi)anion mts. of the range. Clay, Jefferson, Adams
and Madison, that show themselves in a bending line beyond the tremeii
dous gorge, and are visible from their roots to their summits." With one
exception " there is no such view to be had, cast of tlie Mississipjii, of
mountain architecture and sublimity." The road now passes along the
verge of the Great Gulf, with the lofty gray peaks on the r., winds and
twists over dreary slopes covered with the skeletons of dead trees and
the flora of Labrador, surmounts shoulder after shoulder of the storm-
eaten mt., clind)s the sharp, steep, supreme cone, and then the panting
horses stop " on the main-top of New England.'

The ascent from the Cairford House. The old bridle-path (9 M. long)
offers peculiar attractions, as passing over several noble summits, and horses
may be procured at the hotel. The ascent should never be made without
a guide, since sudden storms or the descending of fog-banks miglit cause the
traveller to lose his way and become fatally confused among the ravines.

Upon leaving the hotel the ascent of Mt. Clinton is commenceil, and
after passing over a rude forest-path for nearly 3 M, the mossy summit is

.11

23(5 Route 33.

I I

in*

> ;i

I !

MOUNT WASHINGTON.

reached (4,200 ft. above the sea). A great expanse of blue peaks Is seen
from tliis point, with briglit lakes on the S. E., and Kiarsarge, "the
queenly mt.," lifting its pyramidal rone in the same direction. The i)ath
now descends into a dense forest, crosses two or three bridged ravines, and
passes around the S. side of the dome-like peak of Mt. Pleasant. A
path diverges to the summit (4,800 ft. high), whence the old and disused
Fabyan trail leads down to the An)monoosuc valley. The round and
grassy sunmiit of Pleasant overlooks the whole extent of the valley. The
tracks of formi<lable slides are seen as the path descends to another
plateau, and, passing Red Pond, claml)ers up Mt. Franklin. The summit
(4,900 ft. high) is near the path, and commands a vast prosj)ect terminated
by Ghocorua, almost due S. and 20 M. distant. Between Franklin and
Monroe the path passes over a narrow ridge which is the water-shed of
the Connecticut and Saco Rivers. There are one or two dangerous ])la(;es
on this thin and lofty escarpment, and on the r. is the deep and tei-rilde
chasm of Oakes' Gulf, while the Ammonoosuc valley stretches away on
the other hand. This is one of the most remarkable points of vicAv in the
mts. Monroe is now roimded on the S. side, and the rough scramble to its
E. peak (r>,300 ft. high) is rewarded by another vast prospect. Mt.
Washington now looms ahead as the path descends to the plateau on
which are the Lake of the Clouds and Star Lake, two deep and crystalline
tarns where the Ammonoosuc is l)orn. 1^ M. from the lakes is i\w blealc
crest of Washington, and from tlie E. verge of the jilateau is afforded a
remarkable view down Tnckerman's Ravine. There remains a sharp
ascent among the rocks on the S. W. side of the peak, with a rise ecpial to
1,200 ft. perpendiciilar, and then the summit is gained.

The ascent from Randolph Hill is only jiracticable for strong and
practised pedestrians, accomi)anied by reliable guides. A few such parties
have accomplished this feat with very satisfactory results. Guides may
be heard of at the Gorham hotels, — Calha:ne is one of the best, — and
arrangements should be made to encamp over night on the ridge, although
the ascent may be crowded into a single day. Riding to Randolph Hill
at early moriiing, Mt. Madison is ascended in 4-5 hrs. by the old Gor-
don path, leading along a brook which flows into Moose River. The
ravine tlu'ough which this brook flows is full of gloomy grandeur, and is
surrounded by stupendous walls of rock. The path leads out on the
ridge between Adams and Madison. The latter is rarely visited on this
excursion, since it lies off" the route, but the noble pyramid of Adams is
crossed, opening a striking * view. On the N. the mts. of Kilkenny,
Randolph, and Gorham, with the long valley of the Androscoggin, and in
the remote distance the lakes of Undxagog and Rangeley, The Glen and
the green wall of Carter Mt. are on the E., while the vast dome of Wash-
ington is uplifted in the S. Crossing now the bending ridge to Mt. Jeffer-

MOUNT WASHINGTON.

Route 33. 237

IS seen
L', 'Mlie
'lie patli
lies, ami
ant. A
I disused
uiid and
^y. Tho

an nth or •
! summit
rminated
klin and
•-shed of
us i»hiees
I terrible

away on
iew in tho
iibleto its
3Ct. Mt.
lateau on
n-ystalline
tlic. bleak
ad'orded a
a sharp

e ecpial to

[trong and
icli parties
aides may
st, — and
L although
(lolph Hill
old Gor-
iver. The
^ur, and is
)ut on the
;d on this
Adams is
I Kilkenny,
:in, and in
Glen and
of Wash-
Vlt. Jeffer-

son, a continual front view of Washington is afforded, and after passing
over Jefferson the Great Gulf is seen bending around on the 1. Mt. C^lay
is now aseended, and, after a short descent, the long slope of Washington
is elimbcd to the summit.

The Fabyan path from the Giant's Grave to the top of Mt. Pleasant,
and thence over Franklin and Monroe to Mt. Washington, is now dis-
used ; while the old bridle-i)ath from the W, slope, and the Davis path
from the Mt. Crawford House, are but rarely traversed. The railway
and carriage routes are the favorites, the first being easier and cheaper,
and the last being richer in scenery.

The * * view from Mt.Washington is the most grand and extensive in
New England. In the S. is the Giant Stairs Mt. and the round top of
Mt. Crawford, with Chocorua farther away, and Ossijjce near the gleam
of Lake Winnepesaukee, .35 M. distant, S. of W. is Mt. Carrigain, and
tlie noble peaks of the Sandwich Range are beyond, while 100 M. away
is Monadnock, '^ a filmy angle in the base of the sky." To the S. W. the
l)eaks of Monroe, Franklin, Pleasant, and Clinton stretch off in a straight
line, while the dark crests of Franconia fdl the W., overlo(<ked by the
bald cone of Lafayette. Across the Connecticut are remote blue sum-
mits of the Green Mts., with Mt. Mansfield and the Camel's Hump, 70
M. away. Stretching toward the N. W., only a few miles distant, are
Cherry Mt., Mt. Starr King, and the hills of Kilkenny, over which tlie
graceful Percy Peaks (Stiatford) are s^en, " as near alike in size and
shape as two Dromios." Clay, Jf ff<;:on, Adams, and Madison loom
across the Great Gulf in the N. and N. W. Glimi)ses of the Androscoggin
are next obtained, and 35-50 M. W. of N. Lake Umbagog and the
Kangeley Lakes are seen, with the dim Canadian highlands far to the N.
A vast area of the State of Maine is outspread in the E., and it is claimed
that Mt. Katahdin may be seen " looming out of the central wilderness
of Maine, cutting the yellowish horizon with the hue of Damascus steel."
But Katahdin is 150 M. distant. Mts. Hayes, Moriah, and Carter are
seen more surely in the N. E. The lofty hills over Chatham fdl the
nearer E., and the eye follows down Pinkham Notch to N. Conway on its
fair meadows, with Kiarsarge impending above. Beyond are seen Love-
well's Pond, by Fryebnrg, and the bright Sebago Lake, while the ocean is
sometimes visible in the remote S. E., merging with the weary horizon.

* Tnokerman's Ravine is usually visited from the summit, and is 1^
M. distant by a difficult path (guide necessary). It is also visited from
the Glen House (5 M. away), and by a path which leaves ihe mt. road 2
M. from the Glen, and runs for 2i M, through the forest to Hermit Lake,
This is in the vast Mountain Coliseum (so called), whose lofty curving
Itrecipice-walls reach an altitude of 1,000 ft. or more. Immense masses
of s'.iow are piled \\\^ here, and usually remain until August. The Crystal

r:i!f

Ifi;

238 /iow^e ^.^. THE FUANCONIA MOUNTAINS.

Stream flows down under tliis incipient ^'lacier and cuts a lonj:,' arcli under
llie liiirdencfl snow, tlirou},di wliicli one can walk for hundreds of feet.
The cliffs back of the ravine are striped, after rains, with falling waters,
called the *' Fall of a Thousand Streams." After exploring this wonder-
ful abyss, parties sometimes pass to the Olen House by following the
Crystal Stream, with its many cascades, to the N. Conway road.

34. The Franccnia Mountains and Femigewasset Valley.

I'rom Xfw York to Fninamui )»y If.irUord, SjiriuKlifM, Wells Uiver, ami Little-
ton ; l»y Albiiiiy, iiiitland, IJolldWS I'alls, and LitiUtoii ; liy .Siniiij^litlil, Na^lllla,
and (.'oncnrd ; or by boat to New London, and tlieiitu to Hrattlcboro, Wills Ilivcr,
and JJtth'ton. The connections are I'reiiuently <lianj,'ed, and the tourist should
get a late tinui-tijble and railway-guide before choosing his route.

From IloaUm to Franconia by Route :{;! (stages through the nits.) uiid Route 31
to N. Conway ; or.by Route 30 to Plymouth (123 M.), and thence by stage ('il) M.)
to the rroflle House ; by Route 30 to Littleton (18;J M.), and thence by stag*' (II
M.)ti) the Profile Hou.se. By either of tlie latter routes, tourists may leave Ros-
ton at 8 A. M. and arrive at tin; rrolile Hous«! early in the evening. By Route 31
to Wolfboro, or by Route 38 to Alton Ray, and thence traversing Lake Winnepe-
saukce by steamer, the tourist can take Route 30 (to Plyn:outh or Littleton) at
Weirs.

iJaiiii xtayes leave for the Prolile House, from Littleton (11 M. N. ; fare, §2.00) ;
from th.i Orawlbrd House (26^ M. E. ; fare, $4.00) ; and from Plymouth (20 M. S. ;
fare, §4.00).

The * Profile House (1,974 ft. above the sea) accommodates 4-500
guests, and is one of the best of the mt. hotels. Its corridors are crowded
during the summer with visitors from the coast-cities, and its dining-hall
is said to be the finest in New England. This hotel is open from June 1st
until the middle of October; its terms are §4.50 a day, with reductions
for a long sojourn.

The * Franconia Notch is about 5 M. long, and less than ^ M. wide,
and is on the western verge of the Franconia Range jiroper. "The
narrow district thus enclosed contains more objects of interest to the
mass of travellers than any other region of equal extent within the com-
pass of the usual White Mt. tour. In the way of rock-sculpture and
waterfalls it is a huge museum of curiosities." (Stakr King.) "Tlie
scenery of Franconia is more fantastic and beautiful than Dalecarlia or
Norsland." (Fri;drika Brkmer.)

*Echo Lake is a short distance N. of the hotel, on the r. of the Little-
ton road, and is a calm, deep, and lovely sheet of transparent water,
encircled by rare scenery. During the day it reflects vividly the sur-
rounding objects, but the later hours of the afternoon are the pleasantest,
wlien the visitor can be transported over the quiet waters and see the
forest-shores and mts. in the flush of evening. Remarkable echoes are
awakened here by the bugle, voice, or pistol-shots. " Franconia is more
fortunate in its little tani that is rimmed by the undisturbed wilderness,
and watched l)v the grizzled

l)e;i

ay*

Face from which it has gained so much celebritv,

THE FRANCONIA MOUNTAINS.

Route J.;.

239

1 under
of feet,
waters,
.vonder-
iiig the

alley.

(I IJttlO-

lis Hiv.r.
it sliuukl

Route 31
;e(2y M.)

8ta-('(ll
'iive Hos-

Uoiite ;u
Wiiiiiepe-
tleton) at

0,82.00);
^20 M. S. ;

s 4-500
crowded

ning-liall

June 1st

luetions

M. wide,
"The

,t to the
he com-
ure and
1) ''Tlie
arlia or

Ic Little-
|t water,
J the sur-
|asantest,
see the
dices are
is more
lldcrness,
\\\ Stono

Bald Mt. is ascended by a neglected caniage-road, which diverges to
tlie r. from the road about 1 M. N. of the liotd. The view from the
summit is pleasing, especially just before sunset, when, besides the noble
hills to the N. and the huge, conical Haystack Mt. to the R, a fine south-
erly prospect is given, embracing the narrow notch, witli Lafayette tower-
ing on the 1. and Mt. Profile on the r. Echo Lake is seen in the nearer
foreground.

Profile Mt., or Mt. Cannon, is ascended by a steep foot-path S. of the
hotel, in 2-3 hrs. The * view is of groat beauty, including the Bethle-
hem heights on the N., with Haystack, Lafayette, and the Mt. Washing-
ton group on the E. and N. E. On the S., between Mts. Pemigewasset
find Liberty, stretclies far into the distanoe the fair and fruitful valley of
the Pemigewasset lUver. On the summit is a rock which is supposed to
resemble a cannon, and visitors often descend thence to the vicinity of
the ledges which form the Profde. On the slope of this mt. <and leaehed
by following the aqueduct into the woods back of the old Lafayette
House) is a lively brook wliich e.xhibits some fine cascades after heavy
rains. Good views of Echo Lake and Eagle Cliff, with the highland val-
leys to the N., may be obtained from the brookside.

* *The Profile is best seen from a jioint by the roadside (marked by a
guide-board) a few rods S. of the hotel. 1,5(I0 ft. above the road, three
enormous masses of rock project from the side of the mt., in the exact
resemblance of the profde of an old man's face, with firndy drawn chin,
lips slightly parted, and a well proportioned noss surmounted by a mas-
sive brow. It is " a mountain which breaks into liuman expression, a
piece of sculpture older than the Sphinx, an intimation of the liuman
countenance, which is the crown of all beauty, that was pushed out from
the coarse strata of New England thousands of years before Adam.
The legend of "The Great Stone Face," as told by Hawthorne, belongs
to this place. Directly below the Profile (which is GO ft. long) and near
the road, is the crystal tarn called Profile Lake, or the Old Man's Wash-
bowl, a secpiestered and beautiful sheet of v.'ater, from whoso l)osom is
obtained a pleasing sunset view of the majestic Eafjle ClijJ. This is the
best point from which to see that lofty and remarkable cliff (1,.'>00 ft.
high) which projects from the mt. opposite the Profde House. Near
Profde Lake is the Trout-house, containing many tame lu-ecding-trout.

Mt. Lafayette, " the Duke of Western Coos," is 5,200 ft. high, and is
ascended by a bridle-path diverging to the 1. from the road, midway be-
tween the Profile and Flume Houses (2,^ M. from eacli)- The ] a'Ji is
.steep and arduous, but the ascent may easily be accomplished in 3-4 lirs.,
with horses and guides from the Profile House. After a long ascent
through the dense forest which covers tha lower slopes, the path emerges
(near the bright Lake of the Storm King) upon a bare and rugged tract

1 •■

11 :;

240 lloutvS^. THE FRANX'ONIA MOUNTAINS.

which jvfTords an extensive ofT-look. The ♦view from the sunnnit in
bioiul ami ]»eautil'ul, wKli the I'eiiii^ewasset valley as its most pleasing
feature, stretching S. to IMymouth (20 M. distant). The clustering
rciuigewasset Mts. are seen in the 8. W. ; "hut the lowlands are the
glory of the sjieotaclo which Lafayette shove's his guests. The valleys of
the Connecticut and Merrimac are spread W. and S. W. and S. With
what pomp of color are theii' growing harvests inlaid upon the floor of
New England!" Mts, Monadnock (JH)M.) and Kearsarge (over 50 M.)
are W. of S., while certain i)eaks of the Green Mts. of Vermont are in
the distant W. In the N. W. and N, are the bright villages of Littleton
and Lancaster, with the rural districts of upjier Coiis, while the ProHle
a id Echo Lakes are close below in the glen over which I'rofde Mt. towers.
Tlie Percy Peaks are nearly due N. beyond the Lunenbui-g Hills, and
Haystack Mt. lifts its huge mass close at hand in the N. E. E. and N.
E., 15-20 M. distant, is the great piesidential group, with Mt. Wash-
ington nobly overlooking the rest.

The * Flume House is a small, but new and well-conducted hotel, 5 M.
S. of (and pertaining to) the P'otile House. Mt. Liberty is opposite the
liouse, and Mt. Pemigewasset is behind it, while the rich southern valley
is seen for leagues from this position. The last-named mt. is often as-
cended for a few hundred ft., toward the sunset hour, when "the spurs
and hollows of Lafayette and his associates are lighted up by the si)lendor
that pours into them from the west." About 2 M. N. of the Flume
House a succession of pretty cascades may be found by ascending the
course of a brook which crosses the road. 1 M. N. of the house, by the
roadside, is the Basin, a granite bowl GO ft. in circumference and 10 ft.
deej), tilled Avith clear water. " The best way to enjoy the beauty of the
Basin is to ascend to the liighest of the cascades that slide along a mile
of the mountain at the W. Then follow down by their pathways, as
they make the rocks now wliite with foam, now glassy with thin, smooth,
transparent sheets, till they mingle their water with the Pemigewasset at
the foot, and, pouring their common treasury around the groove worn in
the rocky roof, fall with musical splash into the shadowed reservoir be-
neath."

The Pool is gained in 20 minutes by a path leading into the forest op-
posite the house. It is a basin cut in the solid reck, 150 ft. wide and
over 100 ft. below the level of the path, with 40 ft. depth of dark, cold
water. Visitors can descend to the level of the water, wliere an eccentric
hermit dwells in a rude boat. A rougli jiath leads thence to the Flume;
but if there are ladies in the party, it is best to return to the road.

* The Flume is reached by a road diverging to the 1. a short distance
S. of the hotel, which runs to the foot of the lower cascade. From that
point a path ascends by the smooth ledges over which the cascades glide

tlie

I '

THE PROFIhK HOUSE TO PLYMOUTH. Route 3 i. 241

mil ifl

.stcnug
ire the
leys of
With
loor of
50 M.)

are iu
jiltletou
! Prot'ile

towers,
ills, iuul
, aii<l N.
t. Wash-

)tel, 5 M.
osite the
!rn valley
often as-
the si)urs
3 splendor
je Flume
tiding the
SB, by the
md 10 ft.
Lity of the
|ig a mile
nvays, as
, smooth,
iwasset at
e worn in
lervoir be-

I forest op-
wide and
Idavk, cold
]\ eccentric
lie Flume;

Dad.

distance

I'rom that

fades gU'le

musically to the entrance of the Flr'uo. Al'tor passing tlu^ mis»>rahh' hut
which stands at the mouth of this won<lorful raviin', the full power of
the scene is felt. A substantial plank-walk has heen built along the
course of the stream, which it often crosses. The ravine is abmit ♦JOG ft.
long, and its iM-ecipitous rock-walls arc (<0-7() ft. high. The walls are
about 20 ft. ai)art foi' most of the distance, but approach each other more
closely near the upper end, where the gorge is narrowed to 1(» ft. in
width, and holds suspended a huge granite houMer. This massive rock
seems to be held between the clitls by a most frail tcinire, and is "as un-
pleasant to look at, if the nerves ar(^ irresolute, as the sword of Danioclos,
and yet held by a gras[) out of which it will not slip for centuries." By
claiubering along the musical cascade to the upper end of tlie ra\ ine, one
can reach the edge of the dill's above aTid look down into the Flume.

(ji'orgeanna (or llnrranl) Falls are S. W. of the hotel, and are reached
by a forest-path that leaves the Plymouth road 2 M. S. of the hotel (guide
at the farndio;;se). After a long ascent which follows the stream tlirough
the forest, the falls are secui, " making two l('a[)s of 80 ft. each, (jiio im-
mediately after the other, whiiih, as we climb towards them, gleam as one
splendid line of light through the trees and shrubbery that fringe the
lofty cleft." From the ledge above these falls is gained "the stalwartest
prospect in all Franconia."

The Profile Hoiise to Pb/mouth.

(Stages leave early in the morning. Distance, 29 M. ; fare, $ 4.00).
The road leads through the narrow glen for 5 M., passes the Flume House
between Mts. Pemigewasset and Liberty, and tlien descends to a more
-^pen country. The front view is line, " so soft and delicate are the gen-
eral features of the outlook over the wiilening Pemigewasset valley, so
rich the gradation of the lights over the miles of gently slo])ing forest that
sweep down towards Campton!" 4 M. beyond the Flume House the
rugged town of Lincoln is left, with its 32,4.o6 acres of land barely sup-
porting a resident population of 71 persons. Woodstock is now traversed,
with Black, Blue, and Cushman's Mts. on the W., and Wa.iosha on the
E., beyond which are glimpses of the peaks toward the White Mt. Notch.
This town has 8 or 10 boarding-houses, whose prices range from $ 7.00 to
§10.00 a week.

Beyond Woodstock a fine * retrospect is afforded, where "the arrange-
ment of the principal Franconia Mts. in half-se.x'agon — so that v/e get a
strong impression of their mass, and yet see their separate steely edges,
gleaming with dilTerent lights, running down to the valley — is one of
the rare pictures in N. H. What a noble combination, —those keen
contours of the Haystack pyramids, and the knotted muscles of Mt.
Lafayette beyond ! "

11 P

242 Route S4.

WATEkVILLE.

[I \

• i .

As Tfitirnfon (two inns and several l)n.inliii;/-Ii<>iiHe.s) is entered, tlie
river exliiliits hnculer iiitcrvalfs, which hccoiiie l;t'!iutiriil in Campton.
Tlie latter vilhij^'e lias two inns and many suininer boanling-htuiscs, uml is
a favorite resor* lor artists, on aiaiount oi' its ricli ijiea<lows, its forests
and hills, and the distant nit. views. It is still an nnsettled '[uestion
whether (^'anijiton or N. Conway is the most Ixfautiful of tlie nit. vilhiges.
Welch Mt. is a prominent oltject in the landscape; the Sandwich Mts.
an; seen on the K. ; and Mt. I'rospect and Livernioie Falls arc in the
vicinity (S. E. and S. ) The Devil's Den is a deep cave at Canii)ton Hol-
low ; the Campton Fall is near the villa^'e ; and the views of the Fran-
conia llange from Dnrgin's Hill, and of the broad valley from the School
House Hill, are nnich admired. Following now the Pemigewas.Ket
River, with Mt. rros]»ect on the E., the stage reaches Plymouth, (3 M. S.
of Campton.

Waterville {('rcclci/s Mmtntain Iltmsr) is 12 M. N. E. of Canii)ton,
and 18 M. from I'lymouth, by a roa<l leading up the Mad River valley.
There is good trout-tishing in this rugged town (which has but 33 inhabi-
tants), and some very romantic soenery. Portions of the Sandw»ol^ Range
lie in Watervilh^, forming 1»old and picturcs(pie mt. groups, while the
lofty peak of Osceola (Ij'idO tt. high) is in the N. E. There is a path to
tlu^ summit of Osceola, and the view thence is said to be grand.

On the S. arc tin; jirinciiml ix'aks of the Sandwich Ran^e, Black Mt., White
Face, and IJalil Knob, witli distant views of Italics .S<niaiii and Wiiint'iicsaukee,
the former being alxiiit !S. W. l.ooUinj: across Uic I'('niip'\va.ssct valley the west-
en\ hills and the distant Gre(!n Mts. are seen. In the N. W. are the Fianconia
Mts., with Lafayette's conical jx-ak most eonsiticuous. Tlie heavy mass of Mt.
Carrigain is dose at hand, and nearly N., while f;irtlier are the ]K'Mks around tlie
Notcli, witli Mt. Wiisliiiigtoii ami the ]iresidi'ntial group far bcyc.nd. N. of E.
arc Hear and Double Head Mts., over J'inkham Notch, with Mote Mt. hiding N.
Conway, and Kiarsarge towering beyond, while the eye follows tlu^ Swift River
valley for 18 M. to Conway. Below Conway, and nearly 40 iM. distant, is Sebago
Lake, and 25 M. beyond the ocean may be seen on clear days.

The Flume, on a brook l.].-2 M, from the hotel, with Ilorton's Cave
an<l tlie falls on Cascade Brook, are frequently visited. Adventurous
parties have penetrated the forests to the N. E. to the White ]\It. Notch
i'oad, while a pass known as Greeley's Gap leads by a rude bridle-jiath to
Sandwich (on the S.). The trail to tlie Notch (a guide .should be taken)
leads first to Greeley's Pond, under Mt. Osceola (5 M. from the hotel), and
then, leaving Mt. Carrigain on the 1., ]iasses through the forest to the upper
part of Sawyer's River. The course of this stream is followed until it
reaches the Notch road, at a i^oint about midway between the Upper
Bartlett and Mt. Crawford Houses (3 M. from each), and about 15 M. from
Greeley's.

n\, the
apton.

, iiiiil in

lU'stion
illiiges.
ih Mts.
ill the
.11 llol-
v; Fran-
! School
;ewas«('t
G M. H.

vnipton,
!• viilley.
I inhabi-
V Kaiige
hile the
, ijath to

t., White
iicsiiiiki'e,

[tllO VVt'St-

nicoiiia
ss (if Mt.

und the

N. of E.

iiliiiK N.

11 Iliver
is Sehago

US Cave

nturous
Notch

j.ath to
e taken)
ltd), and

le upper

until ).t
e Upper

M. from

■I

DIXVILLE NOTCH.

Route 35. 243

35. The Percy Peaks, Dixville Notch, and Lake Umbagog.

'I'Mi; slivtion ami villa^,'t' of Xiu-fliiiiuhnimii/ {W'Vry PeiiU.s Hotel;
Mrlchcr House) is 10 M. N. of r/incasf.-r. and Ml M. N. of Cnrhani. It
is near the tonlliU'iMU' of t'lu; I'ppcr Aiiinioiioosui' and Coiuiectii'iit Rivers,
and is connoeted with tJuildhall, the shire-town of Kssex C<junty, Ver-
mont, by i bridge near the falls in the latter river. Tlie town was settled
ill 17<)7, and foitilied during the llevolution. Moose, Hellainy, and Cai»e
Horn Mts. ant in the vicinity, and from this jtoint the ascent of the I'ercy
(or Stratford) Teaks is usually undertaken. Passengers lor Dixville ami
the Noj'th go from Northunibeiland by the (iriiid 'I'runk Railway.

The line passes N. along the Conn, valley with the Pen\v Peaks on the
r., stops at Stratford llolltrw, and then at X. Stratford (Wilhiid House;
Anu'riean; Percy), whence the stage usually leaves in the evening for
Colebrook, 13 M. N. E. The voa<l follows the Conn. Puver closely, cross-
ing the thinly jiopulated forest-town of Columbia, and then, Hanking the
vast mass of Monadnock Mt., enters the pretty village of Cofrhrook
(Parsons House, accommodating 100 guests, at § 7 -IO.(H) a week; Monad-
nock House).

This town was named in linnnr of Sir C!c(irj,'e Coh'brook, an English kni^lit, to
wlioiii it was oriK'niiUy Kniiitcil. It is tlie iKirtheni sliire-towii of Cnii- I'oimty,
wliicli has (in 'irca of l,<,»6e sciiian^ miles, will: a |M)puiatioii of I'j.oSO, and a valiia-
tiitii of i!JI4,<.t4(J,'.tIO. Although New Kngland is the stnumhold of the Uc|)ul)lican
jtarty, it is a ciirious fuv • that Coos and ;lie other three iiiomitain counties,
Ui'lkiiap, Carroll, and CraiLon, usually k<> .'•euiocrati*' by fair ma,jo!iti(!s. Cole-
brook has 4 eliurches an<l i,:'.7".i inhabitants. It is said that i of the potato starch
in Americd is made in this town (by 8 factories).

Excellent trout-fishing is found on the sequestered streams in this
vicinity. Mt. MoiiadnocK. is near the village, and may be ascended by a
})ath leading in 4-5 M. to its summit. The Beaver Brook Falls are
about 4 M. distant, and are well worthy of a visit.

Dixville Notch

is 10 M. S. E. of Colebrook, and is reached by a road leading np the valley
of the Mohawk River, a pretty stream which affords good trout-fishing.
"The Dixville Notch is, briefly, picturesciue, — a fine gorge between a
cnimbling conical crag and a scarped precipice, — a place easily defensible,
except at the season when raspberries would distract sentinels." (Theo-
dore WiNTHROP.) This pass is in the town of Dixville, which has 31,000
acres of land and 8 inhabitants, with a valuation of .'§20,000. The Notch
is not a mountain-pass, but a wonderful ravine among high iulls, whose
inipending cliffs are worn and broken into strange forms of ruin and deso-
lition. "At Dixville, all is decay, wreck ; the hopeless submission of
matter in the coil of its hungry foes." The first view of the Notch is

I> '

t I I

III

4-'

L,t.

214 PiOiUc 35.

LAKE UMI5AG0G.

<lisap]ioiiitin;4, since it is entered ut a liii,'!: level hy tin road whidi lia3

been a.seendinj,' ;dl the way IVoni ('o'lel'rook. No inonnlainouh) line is seen

in front, and it is only after leaving the great forest and making a sliarj)

turn to the r. and a sliort, steep ascent, that the high, eoluinnar sides am

seen frowning at each other across rlie naiiow chasm. These cliffs of

decaying ndca slaie present a scene of rnin, transitoriness, and sluittered

strengtli, that is inournl'nl and almost repnlsive.

* Table Bock is on the r. of the road, and is reac!io.d l)y a rude stuirway

of stone Idoclvs called Jaoolt's Ladder, whose divergence from the road is

maiked by a guide-board near the top of tlie first steej) rise. Tiie Rock is

!j()\ ft. above the road and 2,ir>0 ft, al)ovc the sea, and is a narrow ])iti-

naole only about 8 ft. wide at the top, with sharj*, precipitous sitles.

TIio view is very txtniHivc from this pdhit. MunatJiioek looms bohilv in tlie
W. wi'h other ami luoic distant sinmiiits ii! Vermont ; tlie Canadian ilerefortl Mt.
is in the N. W. ; while Coinieeticnt l.aU(!aml tlie Maj^'alloway Mis. are in the N.
Tti till) K. are the broad idains of Krrol and the nii]ier Androsc()^';,'in vallev. IJut
the r.iost imiiressi\(! si.Ljlit is the dreary ]iass helow with its hrokt-n jialisades seem-
in;4 re;idy to fall at any moment. Tlu' roek-s|.ires oii]iosite, which are seen IVoni
the road as clearly onilined av^ainst the sky. Iron: this jioint lone their shar'iness
of form against the dark backgrouml of a lofty hill which towers over theiti.

Above Table Rock a .sbort path leads to the Ice Care, a profound chasm
where snow and ice may be found througliout the summer. The Profile
js seen from a guide-board on the r. of the road, high up on the cliffs,
Avhile the Pulpit is pointed out on the 1. Farther on, a board on the r.
directs attention to the refreshing waters of Clear Spring, and another
board on the 1, points <mt Washington's Monument and the Rimiacle,
remarkable rock-formations which have rc'^ently been (levelo[)ed by clear-
ing away the forests, A sign on the V shows the path leading to the
Flume, where a brook runs through a gorge ir. the rock which is spanned
by a rustic bridge. Tiie Hume is 20 ft. deeji and 10 ft. wide, and has been
formed by the erosion of a trap-dike. At the foot of the Notch (which
is 1^ M. long), a boartl directs to the r. to the Cascades, before which
is the grove where e.xcursion-parties usually dine. Beyond the grove
is a neat rustii' i)ridge and seat, before a small cascade, and by following
a rugg.'d i>ath up stream on th" 1. (15 minutes) a diflf-side seat is reached,
from which a noble series of falls are seen, descending sheer from the
precipice above.

The Clear Stream Meadows are below the E. side of the Notch and
present a scene of pastoral beauty that stiongly contrasts with the deso-
late region behind.

Froiii this point the return is usually commenced, tho;igh parties of
gentlemen ]n-epared lor a forest e.\i)edition sometimes go on to Erral Dam
(Errol IIov.sc ; Akers House) i:^ M. distant, A steamer leaves the Dam
KfUM-weekly for tiie Ui.per Magalloway River, and also for the Lake
Jlonsc, in Upton, at the fo;)t of Lake Umbagog. Winthrop tells (" Life

I'!

BOSTON TO CAPE ANN.

nmie 3G. 245

lich lias
e is sc'i'U
a sli;iri>
litU's ar<i
cliiTs of
liuttevc'il

stturway
load is

I Hock is

row \iu\-

lus.

Ilv in the
(■n.nl Mt.

II llH" N.

lev. ]Jut
idfs sci'iii-
;t I'll ti(i:ii
sliiirjuiesa

L'ltl.

1(1 chasm
e Pritjih
he cliffs,
pn the r.
another
iiiuacle,
y clear-
to the
spanne<l
as heon
(which
■e which
le grove
uUowing
reached,
oni the

tch and
le deso-

'ties of
V(}1 Dam
lie Dam
ie Luke
(" Life

in the OjH'n Air ") of his vnya^'o in a sinall l>oat to the Tlanp-ley Lakes,
passing tlirongh Unibagog, then over a .'} }<\. jiortage, and tlu-nee travers-
ing tlie Lakes Wehickseliacook, Alleguiulabagog, Mollychunkanmg, and
Moosetocmagantic to Rangt'ley (see Route 11). From tlie Lake House at
the S. end of Unibagog, semi-weekly stages run to Bethel (see Houte 40).
Conneoticut Lake {Conn. Lake Ilonsr) is 25 M. N. E. of Colehrook.
it is r).\ M. long by 2^ M. wiilc, and ahonnds in fish. A small steamer
jtlics ov(r its waters. 4 M. N. E. through tlie forest is Second Lake, 2.\
M. long hy 2 M. wide, while still farther N, is Third L:ike, covering 200
acre", and on the border of Canada is Fourth Lake, the source of the Con-
iieetieat River. The latter lake covers .'? acres, and is 2,500 ft, above the
sea. S. E. of Connect ieut Lake the Magalloway Mts. are seen, while
from its lower end the Connectieut River ("' Quonektaeut," meaning Long
River, or River of IMiies) Hows down a long "ascade. These lakes are in
Pittsburg, a town of 200,000 acres, with but 400 inhabitants. UantO
abounds in the forests, and tish in the streams.

36. Boston to Cape Ann.

Trains on the Eastern Ilaih-oail fioni tiie station on Causfway St., Boston
(PI. 2).

From Boston to Beverly, see Route 37. At Beveily a branch railroad
diverge, to the N. E. and runs (in 18 M.) to Rockport, at the end of Cape
•Ann, and 86 M. from Boston. Between Beverly and Manchester the line
lies near the sea, and allords fixMiueiit glimpses of the beach-cottages and
tents whi(;h front on the outer harlior of Salem. Near Beverly Farms the
Mingo Beach stretches around a broad cove. Manclu'ster (Manchester
Ilou.se) is a ipiaint little village on the 1. of the line, lying at the head of
a narrow harbor, and noted for having produced more sea-captains and
sailors than any other town of eciual jiopulation in America. Between
Manchester and Gloucester the line runs through a dreary succession of
rocky hills.

Gloucester.

Hotels. — Atlantic House ; Webster Ilmise ; Pavilion (on the beach ; open only
ill suninier).

Oloucester is an interesting city of 15,397 inhabitants, situated on a fiiui
harbor opening to the S. W., at about the middle of the cape. It has 13
churches, 2 lodges of Masons and 2 of Odd Fellows, 8 temperance societies,
and 4 banks. It has a curious nautical air, from the fact that most of its
men are engaged in tl;e d(fep-sea fisheries, and when the great fleets are in
port the streets and harbor i»resent a li/ely appearance. Extensive fires
have devastated the plaee, and its flc.'ets have often been overtaken with
disasters, but s'ib Gloucester has increased, and has recently attained the
distinction of a city. There are some VL'ry neat ch rcli and school build-

* if

1 !

24G RmdcSG.

GLOUCESTER.

iiiga, and the City Hall is a new and elegant structi'rc of brick, in the
modern French style of architecture. Tlie inner harbor is guarded by
Ten Pound Island, and i)resents a rare scene of bustle and activity, being
the very home of schooncn's. The outer harbor is protected from tlie sea
by Eastern Point, with its lightliouse auvl fort, while on the W. sliore is
the Stage Fort (erected during the Secession War) from which is obtained
a pretty view of the liarbor and town. Directly across the harbor from
the city is E. Gloucester, from whose rugged hills the compact streets,
with the church-spires and the Collins School and lofty City Hall, make
a pretty scene (the best near views arc from Rocky Neck). Several large
summer boarding-houses are scattered over th.e E. Gloucester peninsula,
which has wild and rugged scenery on the seaward side. On Little Good
Haibor is a beach, p.t the S. end of which are the Bass Rocks, where the
surf rolls in grandly after an easterly gale. The City Hall Tower owr-
looks the pretty suburbs of Brookbank and Stecpbank, and views tlio
open sea beyond E. Gloucestei*. Within 5 minutes' walk of the Cily Hall
is Fort Poiiit, a small, rocky promontoiy covered with fish-Hakes, with
the remains of an old fort on its highest pouit. Near by (and 3 minutes'
walk from the Atlantic Hoiise) is Crescent Beach, facing the surf from
the inner harbor and jiartly occupied by tlie Pavilion IIovsc, of whi(;h
Lady E. S. Wortley said, "It is very much like being afloat in a line-of-
battle ship, we are so close to tlie grand old Atlantic."

Beacon Pole Hill, close to tlie city on the Annisquam road, commands
an extensive and interesting pros^iect of Gloucester, the bare, bleak hills
of the cape, and the wateis and shores to the N. and S. Beyond the hill
is the hamlet of Rircrdale, Avhich has a church of the 17th century.

John Murray, the " Apostle of Universalism," i)lanted that sect in America in
177"i, and prerched fur several years in this churcli. A centennial celel)ration
took place here, Hejtt. '20-24, 1870, during wliich many thousand Universalists
enca!n])ed ahout tlie town. In the okl Murray Meeting-house is a curious organ,
which was captured during the Revolutit-a by a pii\ateer. It is 4 ft. high, and is
l)layed by turning a crank, its c;i )acity being 30 tunes.

The pleasantest excursion about Glouc*. ster is to Xorman's Woe and
Rafc's Chasm. About 2 M. from the city, a small road turns off to the
1. from the Manchester road, and soon, losing all evidences of carriage-
travel, runs into a sequestei'ed path in the borders of the forest and by
the edge of the sea. The dark and frowning mass of rocks soon seen,
surrounded by tlie sea, is Normairs Woe, the scene of Longfellow's poem,
*' The Wreck of the Hesperus."

*' It wns the schooner lU'spcrus
Tliiit saili'il till' wintry sea.

" -And fitst thront'h tlic micli'if.'Iit (hivk nnd drear,
Tliroioih tl.i' \N liiNt ii:fr sliit and snow,
J.iki' ii .'iHc'id f.l'(>-t till' vessel swept
'Jow Ills the infill iSiiriiiiin'B Woe."

'Jl

- S.

ROCKrORT.

Route 36. 247

, in tlio
r(le«l by
y, being
the sea
sliore is
Dbtaineil
lor from
streets,
,11, make
-al large
jninsula,
tie Hood
here llie
Arer ovur-
iews the
:'ity Hall
Ices, ^vith
minutes'
;urf irom
of vhicli
a line-of-

ommands
leak hills
the hill
iry.

uiierica in
ek'bration
iversulists
ms organ,
igh, and is

Voe and
T to the
carriage-
and by
oon seen,
,v's poem,

Following the precipitous, rocky shore about 1 M. S. W, of the reef,
one comes to * Rafe's Chasm, a remarkable fissure in the great cliff which
fronts the sea. It is 6 ft. wide, 40 - r»0 ft. deep, and 100 ft. long, and the
roar of the waves is appalling when they sweep through it after a storm.
Some distance beyond, on the same shore, is another curious cleft in the
trap-rock. The ramble may be extended to Goldsmith's Point and
its summer villas, witli Kettle Island and Great Egg Rock off shore, and
a Icrge new hotel near the l>each. A little to the N. (and near the Mag-
nolia flag-station on the railroad) is a swamp containing the rare and
beautiful magnolia-trees, whose flowers are out in tJuly.

" Around the Cape " is a favorite excursion frcm Gloucester, and the
distance is 12-14 M. From Gloucester to Rockport by highway or rail-
road, is ai)out 4 M. By diverging to the r. from the main road a shore-
road (inferior) is gained, which leads to Rockport by Whale and Loblolly
Coves, passing near Thacher's and Straitsmouth Islands, with their tall
lighthouses. Tliachcr's Island has two powerful Fresnel lights, in
granite towers, 112 ft. high and ^ M. apart. There is a tradition that a
rebel cruiser hit one of tliese lanterns with a cannon-shot during a dark
night of the Secession War.

Bookport {Sherida,i J^'uuse) is a well-named town of about 4,000
iidiabitants, with 5 churches and 2 banks. From costly artificial harbors
along this rock-bound coast, great quantities of granite are shipped to all
parts of the Union. 2 M. N. of this village is the summer-resort at
Pifjeon Cove (stages from Rockport station), with the Pigeon Cove, Ocean
View, and Glen Acre Hotels, and several boarding-houses. This was
formerly a favorite resort of the great divines of the liberal sects, — Chapin,
Starr King, Bartol, and others, — and has grown rapidly in popularity. The
rocky shores furnish an endless variety of scenery, and the surf, after
stormy weather, is grand in its powei'. Phillips Avenue and other streets
have been graded on the heights by Pigeon Cove, and a large village of
summer residences (called Ocean View) is to be built liere.

From Ocean View, the load runs to Folly Cove, and near Folly Point,
the N. limit of the cape, to LanesviUe, looking across the nortliern waters
to the shores of Essex North, New Hampshire, and lower Maine. Tliere
are sunmier boarding-houyes Jiere and at Annisqxam, at the mouth of the
S(iuam River. This tidal lagune is now followetl to liai/ Vieiii, with its
large wharves, and a steam railroad running back into quarries which yield
granite (of which the Boston Post OfTice is being built) of a lighter color
than that of Quincy, On a sightly hill ovi-r Bay View is tlie elegant sea-
sitle cottage (of red and gray granite), which was presented by friends to
the Hon. B. F. Eutler, Congressman from Essex County. From Annis-
quum to Gloucester it is aboiit 4 M., mostly by the side of Squam River,
and passing Riverd'Uc and Beacon Pole Hill.

248 R(mte36.

CAPE ANN.

Cape Ann was formerly inhalutod hj- a small Iribo of Indians, who cal'ed it Wiii-
gaersheek. It was roundcfl by Cai>t. Smith in KiU, who nanu>d it C ape Tra^'a-
bigzanda in memory of a Tiirlvisli i)rin(ess who had befriended him while he was
wounded and a prisoner in Constantinople (IGOl). Prinee Charles of England
overruled Smith, and named tlie eape in honor of his royal mother. In 1(125 llic
forest-covered promontory was settled by a colony under Roger Conant, who
founded here the first Puritan church. Abandoned by Conant in favor ol Salem,
it was soon re-peopled by another swarm from the English hive, and incorporated
in 1642 under the name of Gloucester, since most of its settlers came from the
English town of that name. The colonists soon exterminated the"lyons" and
drove off the Indians. 10'.i2 was "a year memorable in the annals of mystery,"
and hundreds of French and Indian ghosts were thought to haunt the cape, and
were often shot at but never hurt. So great was the panic that two regiments
from the mainland oecupied the cape. With the decline of the witchcraft delusion
in Salem the superstitious mariners of (Jloucester lost sight of their mysterious
enemies, and the guards were withdrawn. In 1710 the first terrible marine dis-
aster occurred, wlien ."> large lishing-vessels frcT>i this port were lost off the 13anl\s
with all on board. In 1774 Edmund IhnUe, sjieaking of the Massachusetts fislnr-
men, said, " No sea but what is vexed by their lisheries, no climate that is i.ot
witness of their toils ; neither tiie perseverance of Holland, nor the activity of
France, uor the dexterous and firm sagacity of English entcriirise, ever cnnit d
their most jterilous mode of hardy industry to the extent to whieh it has bicn
pursued by this recent pe,oj<le, - a people who aie yet in the gristle, and not yet
hardened into manhood." In 1775 Cape Ann sent 800 men to the American army
besieging Boston, and in August of that year Gloucester was bombarded for 4
hours by the Uritish sloop-of-war " Falcon." The minute-men held the town, and
captured 4 boats, a tender, and a inize schooner with 40 men from the " Falcon."
The ruined town was soon re]taired,and with the dose of the war, the cessation
of privateering, and the reduction of the lational navy, the fishing-fleets were once
more manned and sent out. (Jloucester lad includecl the wliole eape until bS-lo,
when Rockport became an indeiicndent town. The canal IVom the harbor to
Squam River (first cut in 1(54:5) was long ago abandoned as useless. In 1873
Gloucester received a city charter.

William Winter, the poet, E. P. Whipple, the essayist, and Samuel Gilnian, the
Unitarian divine, were horn here ; also, Capt. Haraden, who, with the "Pieker-
ing," swept the Bay of Biscay and the North Atlantic, and took 1,000 eannon from
the British on the .sea, between 1775 and 178M. E]H'S Sargent, the author ; Henry
Sargent, the painter ; and other notables of the same faniily, came from Glouces-
ter.

The fisheries around Newfoundland have caused trouble ever since 1585, when
Queen Elizabeth sent a fleet whicih swooped down on a swarm of Norman fishing-
vessels on the Banks, and caj>tured half of them. But the deep-sea and George's
Bank fisheines are the noble pursuits of this maritime p<'ople, who man their fleets
with 5,000 men, and lose on an average, 10 vessels and 100 men each year. In
the winter of 1802, 13 vessels and 130 men from this poi-t were lost in one night
on George's Bank.

" Wild ai-c the waves which Insh the reefs nlonj? St. Gcorpe's Bank,
Cold on the shore of Lnbrnrtor the foe lies white nnd dnnk ;
Through stonn and wave and blindine mist, stout are the liearts which man
The flshing-sniueks of Marl)lehea(l, the sea-boats of Cape Ann.

" The cold Xorth liuht and wintry sun plare on their iey forms
BentRrimly o'er tin Ir straininu lines, or wrestlinp with the storms ;
Free as the winds they drive before, ronph as tlie waves thev roam,
They laugh to scorn the slaver s threat against their rocky home "

(John G. Whittieb.)

37. Boston to Portland and St John.

This is the most interesting and eisy of tlie rouics fti .Maine and the Maritime
Provinces. No change of cars is necf^snry between I'oston and Bantjor, since
the Eastern Railroad cars i»;is,s(,n (o tlic rails of tlic .Maine ("entral Railwav at
Portland and are carried tl,nn;-li l> Ban-«-r. At the latter citv the traveller gets

), •when
Ifisliinj^-

rt'orge'rt
\h- fleets

cir. In

Lman

!R.)

Irit.inie

since

h-ay at.

Ir gets

EVERETT.

Itoute ST. 240

on the train of the Enroi>oan ami Nortli American Railway, wliich i)assen thrmi^'li
to St. John. Doson to Sah-ni, 1(J .M. ; t<> N'ewl)iirvi«>rl, ;i(! M. : to I'ortsindiitli,
5e M. ; to Portland, 108 M. ; to Augusta, 171 M. ; to Bangor, 240 M. ; to St. John,
440 M. ; to Halifax, 0.30 M.

The rich and elegant ears of the Pnllinan Company are attached to every
through train. Thi.s company has over .'»()0 cars(costiMv >= IS -'Jl'.ooo each) running
on 00 railro.ids. They are used throuudioiit tlie UnitiMJ .States, also iK'tween l?om-
bay and Cahutta (l.SOO .M.), and are ationt to lie introduced on tlie through ronto
from Paris to Vienna. The cliief advantage i)oss('ssed by this line is tiiat it riuia
through the large sea-cities of .Massachii: etts, witii frequent views of the ocean
and tiie northern bays. Nnmerou.s i»opu!ar seaside re.sorts are near its track,
while 9 connecting lines run landward from it. Fares, to Portland, ^3.00 ; to
Bangor, ^SO.OO ; to St. John, ijs 10.00 ; to Halifax, .'? 14.00.

The lino nearly coincides with the rout" of the "Portsmouth Flying Caieh
Co.," established in 170'J, to make wetdsiy trips by way of the Ncwbnryport road.
The fare wa.s- lli.s-. 0'/. to Portsmoutli ami O.s-. to Newbury. President Dwiglit
(of Yale) rode over this route in IT'.UJ, and wrote, "No part of the United States
t'Hrni.she.s a tour e<iually i)leasing. Nowh(;re is there in the same compass such n.
number of towns etpially interesting, large, wealthy, and beautiful, or equally
inhalntcd by intelligent, polished, and resjiectable peojile."

Two through exi)ress trains run daily each way between Boston and Bangor,
240 M., in 11 hours.

The train leave.s the terminal .station on Cau.seway St., at the foot of
Friend St. (PI. 2), and runs out over Charle.s River on a long tre.stlo. On
the 1. is the track of tlie Boston and Lowell R. R., and on the r. are the
Fiteldiurg and the Roston and Maine tracks. The heights of Charlestown,
crowned hy Bunker Hill Monument, rise on the r., and the manufactories
of E, Cambridge are seen on the 1. OIV Prison Point (Charlestown) the
Fitehburg R. R. is crossed, with the State Prison close at hand, and the
McLean Asi/lian for the Insane on the 1. Tliis Asylum was opened in
1818, and has extensive buildings which cost over $200,000, surrounded
by pleasant grounds. It was named for a philanthropic Boston merchant,
who gave ,$150,000 for this object and to Harvard University. Al'ter
rubiiing for nearly a mile over the Avaters of Cliarles River and Miller's
Creek, the line gains the Somerville meadows, and cpo.sses the Boston and
Maine track just before reaching Somerrillc station. Soon after leaving
this station, Mt. Benedict and the niiiis of the Ursuline Convent (de-
stroyed by a mol) in 1S34) are passed on tlie 1. and the train crosses the
My.stic River, — with Charlestown and E. ]'nst<jn on the r.

Station, Everett^ whence the Saugus Branch diverges to the N., and
passes through the suburban villages of Maiden, Maplewood, Linden,
Cliftondale, Saugus, E. Saugus, and Lynn Common. Near the latter vil-
lage it rejoins the main line. The town of p]verett Avas incorporated in
1870, with a population of 2,222 and a valuation of $2,000,000. From
this point the track runs S. of E. to Clvlsea station. From Boston to
Chelsea the road describes a semicircle with the centre of tlie curve in-
clined to the N. W. The road formerly terminated at E. Boston, but a
depot was built in the city, and a circuitous course was neces.sury in order
to avoid the deep outer channels of the Charles and Mystic Rivens.

Chelsea and Rever? Rc.ich are de.sciibed in Route 2. The line .soon cio.is:.^
11 *

i':'

> ■

1 1

ii'

[I .'

250 r.ouie 37.

LYNN.

Cliclsi'.a Creek and S;uip;ii.s riivor, witli the liotels on Chelsea (or Revevc)
Beacli, on the r., .skirts Lynn llarlior, passes W. Lynn, and stops at

TIotel«.

Rag-imoro Ilonso

Ljnin Hotel. Horse-cars to Bos-

Lynn.

Central House
ton, Iiuir-Ji()url}\

Lynn is a busy city of 28,201 inhabitants, situated near the N. end of
Mass. Bay, on a harbor formed by the jjcninsula of Nahant. The greater
part of the city is on a plain near the sea, while a chain of porphyritic
hills on the N. is adorned "with many neat villas. Market St. is the main
thorough i'are, and is lined with large commercial buildings, mostly of
Itrick, although l)y far the greater part of the city is constructed of wood.
Skilled American labor is employed here to a larger extent than in thi'-
otlier manrfacturing cities of New England (where foreign workmen ar^;
numerous), and its interests arc protected and sometimes over-asserted by
a powerful organization called the Knights of St. Crispin.

The, city was foundcfl in 1G20, and named for Lynn Rej^is, in England, the linnn^
of its lirst pastor (lG."G-7!»)- In 1810, it was th(! 7th town of Essex County ; in
1820, tlie Gtli ; in 1830, tiie 4th ; in 1840, tiie 2d, wliicli rank it still maintains
(Lawrence Vieing the largest city in tlie county). About 1750, the manufacture of
ladies' .shoes was conuuenced here by a Weh^hman named Dagyr, and it has sincn

f^rown to vast ])roi)ortions, Lynn now being the lirst city in the world in this
>ranch of industry.

The shoe-manufacture is now the chief business of Massa(!husetts. Of
8555,000,000, the aggregate value of the manufactures in the State in the year
1870, iSS8,.S90,58.'), was the value of the boots and shoes made; 833,(585,055, of
the leather ; .8 5!), 200,423, of cotton goods and threads ; !? 48, 177,135, of the wool-
lens and worsteds ; and )$ 20,707,485, of the iron-manufactures.

In 1707, Lvnn made 80,000 ])airs of shoes ; in 1810, 1,000,000 pairs; in ISCa,
5,300,000 pairs; ar.il in 1808, over 10,000,000 pairs, valued at $18,000,000. In
1805, there were employeil 0,084 men uiid 4,984 women, in this branch of in-
ibi:;try.

The * City Hall is one of the finest municipal buildings in New Eng-
land. It is some distance W. of the .station, and is substantially and
gracefully built of brick and brownstone, Avith a fine tower above it. It
fronts on a long and narrow Common which extends nearly to the Lynn
Common station. Ili'jh Rock is N. of the City Hall, and commands a
wide view of the city and the surrounding waters. Here was the homo
of Moll Pitcher, a reputed sorceress, and here also, in later years, have
resided the Hutchinson family of singers. Pine Grove Cemetery is a
beautiful rural burying-ground on the hills toward the " Lakes of Lpm."

Dmvjeon Rock is 3-4 M. from the city. Here, on one of the highest
of a series of picturesque, forest-covered hills, it is said that certain pirates
liad their den and treasure-house, until an cartlicpiake swallowed them
lip (in the 17th century). In 18.'!>2 a person came to this hill and began to
dig for treasures under the inspiration of spiritualism and the guidance
of clairvoyants. He Avorked here until his death in 1808, meanwhilo
cutting a passage into the iron-like porphyry rock, 13j ft. long, 7 ft. wide,

SWAMrSCOTT.

R,»(te37. 251

Iv Eng-

ly ami

Lynn

mds ;i

homo

havo

1/ is a

Ugliest
>irates

them
Igan to
itlancc
liwhilo

■wide.

aii'l 7 ft. high. Near this peine is the Faiigus River, wliere a forge and
snielting-works for working iron were erected in 1643.

The pleasantest part of Lynn is the vicinity of Nahant St. and Saga-
more Hill, whore there are many fine villas belonging to Boston mer-
chants. Tlie bank bnilding and the new Universr.list Church are in this
quarter, and are worthy of notice. Lynn Beach and Nahant (sec page 21)
are gained by way of Nahar.t St., while by following the shore toward
the N. (a foot-path only) a line of elegant seaside villas is passed, and
Swampscott is reached.

Soon after leaving Lynn, the train reaches Swampscott (Great Anawau
House; Little Anawan House ; Ocean House ; Lincoln House), a fashion-
able watering-place, which, like Nahant, is much affected by the aristocracy
of Boston, Their elegant carriages and trim ya(;hts are easily l)roughL
here (13 M. from Boston), and make land and water lively through tlin
summer months. Numerous boarding-houses, small hotels, and cottages
receive their quf tas of the guests. The beaches are short and limite<l,
but afford safe bathing, while the greater part of the shore consists of
higli bluffs and ragged ledges. Phillips' Beach, about 3 M. E. of tho
station, faces the open sea, and is nearly insulated by Phillips' Pond. A
large cluster of cottages is built on the prominent point over Dread
Ledge, from which the shore trends W., and pretty views of Nahant Bay,
the peninsula of Nahant, and the islanded Egg Rock, may be gainetl.
The yachts and village fishing-smacks are usually anchored off Fisher-
man's Village and along tlie S. shore. Beyond Swampscott the train
reaches

Salem.

Hotels. Essex Hous»^, on Essex St., S3.00 a day ; Derby House.
Horse-cars to Peabody and Beverly (on Essex St.). Steamers (in summer)
to Lev. ell Island.

Salem, the mother-city of the Massachusetts colony, and a shire-town
of Essex County, is favorably situated on a long peninsula between two
inlets of the sea. It has 24,119 inhabitants, and while slowly gaining in
wealth, it is losing its place among the cities of the State and County, by
their more rapid increase. The marine aristocracy of the ohl East India
merchants and captains still holds lines of stately old-time mansions, and
the stillness and grave propriety of tlie city is generally noticed by the
visitor. The wharves are now occu]ued by tlie few coasting-vessels whicli
have taken the place of the great East Iiidiamen which formerly entered
here. Boston has taken this trade away, aii<l the city is now sup})or(,ed
by its lately develo})ed steam-mills and factories, Tlioro is a safe and
commodious harbor before tlie city, wliicli is defended by Fort Pickering',
and good boating is found there. The State Normal Scliool in Siilcin is
situated on High St,, and has 160 girls in atten<laiice. Instruction of a

! )

252 Route 37.

SALExM.

- 1

t'.

I! >

luf,-li order is given licrc without cost, on condition that cacli student shall
t(!acli (tor a spt'cilied time) in the schools of the ('oninionwealth. Tho
churches of the city are not remarkable for their architecture, although 3
of them arc of stone. There are 3 Unitarian churches.

The East India Marine IlnU is on Essex St., near tho Essex House.
Here are the scientific collections of tlie Essex Institute and the * ethno-
logical collections of the E. I. Marine Society (organized in 1799 by tho
chief ofTicers of Salem Indiamen). This liall was built in 1825, and in
18G7 George Peabody gave .$ 140,000 for the j^romotion of knowledge in
Essex County, with part of which the hall was purchased. The collec-
tions remain on i)erniunent deposit (open daily, except Sunday and Mon-
day, 9-12 A. M., and 1-5 P. M. ).

Nearly every branch of uatiiral science is represented in the extensive and well-
nrr!iii;,'('(l caltiiiets of tlie Essex Institute!. Tlu; Marine [Society's collectinn em-
braces a (,'reat nunilier of curiosities l)r()n;,'!it from remote lands. Tliere arc musi-
cal instruments of every form used by tlie Oriental nations, and a curious uiray
of tlieir weapons of war. Clothiuf?, utensils, and other aiPiiointments of Hindoo
daily life are seen, and also a large and well-conceived tableau of court-life. In ono
l>artof the hall is ii eomj'lete a.ssortment of go»ls, Hii.doo, Chinese, and l*oly-
nesian. The models of naval architecture are very nnniemiis, and mark the pro-
gress from the rude Esquimati canoe to the nioilel of the stately and heavily-
armed ^SaIem East Indiaman, the "(Jrand Turk." There are also cabinets tilled
with aboriginal American and Peruvian ant.i(iuities, mostly stone implements and
jiottery. The gem of the collections is a * piece of wood-carving attributed to an
Italian monk of the 14th century. In the concavities of two hemispheres of l»ox-
wood, each 1 " inches in diameter, he has carved 110 full-hiugth figures, s<une of
which are full of expr«!ssiou. One hemispheic represents Ileavcu, and the other
Hell.

Flummer Hall is a fine building on Essex St., which was erected with
funds left to the Salem Athenrouni by Miss Plumnier. In the second
story is one of the most elegant halls in the State, with white Corinthian
columns at the sides, and some old portraits, the cliief of which is a large,
full-length painting of Sir "William Pepperell in his favorite red costume.
Oliver Cromwell, Secretary Pickering, Governors Leverett, Bradstreet,
aiul Endicott, several early divines and ladies of tlie colonial era, are rep-
resented in these old portraits. There are three libraries (Athenaeum,
Essex Institute, and S. Essex Medical Society) in the building, with an
aggregate of 43,000 volumes, the larger part of which are in the hall.
The original charter of Ma.isachusetts Bay, given by King Charles I, in
1628, is preserved here, together with sundry other quaint old documents
of State. Over the main stairway is a graphic painting representing a
scene in the v.itchcraft days. Behind Plummer Hall, and reached by pass-
ing around tlie building, is the oldest church edifice in the Northern
States. It was built in 1634 for the First Church, of which Roger Wil-
liams was pastor, and was used for 38 years. In 1672 a new church was
built, and this edifice was abandoned. It is about half as large as an
ordinary parlor, and has a gallery, a high-pointed roof, diamond-paned
windows, and a few relics of the people who were contemporary with it.

SALEM.

JlmiteST. 253

nan

rep-
um,
an

wU.
in
pnta

Ig ^

lass-

Icrn

kvas

ped

The Old Witch House is on tlie ooruerof Essex and North Sts. (a one-
elory shop lias been l)uilt in front of it). It dates from 1042, and certain
of the suspected witches were tried in it. GaUows Hill is VV. of the city,
and commands a broad view over the harbor and surroundinj:; country.
Here Vj j)ersons were i)ut to death during' the witchcraft delusion. In
llni'iiumi/ Urove t'ciiictcrij, W. of Salem, (Jcorge I'eabody is buried, while
in the village of Feabody ("2 Al. distant ; horse-cars from Salem) is shown
the house where he was bom. The library and collections of the Pcahody
luditute arc worthy of a visit (open Wednesday and Saturday). The
most notable object in this collection is the * i)ortrait of Queen Victoria,
given by her to George Peabody It is 14 by 10 inches in size, painted
on enamel, framed with blue and gold, and adorned with rich jewels. It
is. said to have cost § 30,000.

Derby Wharf is a long and well-constructed wharf on the S. of tlie city,
near the great Naumkeag Cotton Mills. It was formerly the focal point
of the E. Inilia trade, and at its head stands the old Custom House
Avhere Hawthorne was emi)loyed (his birthplace was at No. 21 Union
St.). The Court Il"use and the CUij Hall are granite buildings near the
tunnel, and Chestnut St. is an elm -lined, aristocratic street, which is called
the finest in the city. In the E. is the broad Common known as Wash-
ington S(iuare, with the brownstone East Church (Unitarian) fronting on
it. In this vicinity is St. Peter's Episcojial Church, an old and massive
stone building.

Sdlrm Nirk is a peninsula projerting from the city toward the sea, nearly imin-
habitnl, ami the seat of Fort Pickering and the Salem Abiishouso. Tlie old
ruined batteries on the Neck were favorite haunts of Nathaniel Hawthorne (see
" Aniericau Note-Books ").

Tiiere are in Salem extensive works for the manufacture of railwiiy cars ; also
for making guimy-bags ; while the Naumkeag Cotton Mills employ a large num-
Imt of workmen. Immense quantities of coal are liandleil here, being landed on
I'hillips' Wharf, and thence (tarried by rail into the interior. The city is abun-
dantly supplied with wuter by an acpieducit Icailiiig tVoui Wcnl'.am I'ond.

In 1626 Roger Conant left the fishing colony on C.i]»e Ann, and built the first
house on the Indian domain of Naumkeag.* In 1027 the I'ly mouth Company
ttranted to eerbiin " knights and gentlemen of Dorchester, and tli<!ir heirs, assigns,
and associates forever, all that i)art of New England wliich lies between a great
river called Merrimac, and a certain other river called Charles." John Endicott
was sent over in 1628, and foundeil at Naumkeag the capital of this district. The
colony was " called Satem from the i)eace which they had and hoped in it." In
1028 the First Church was formed, and in 10.'U Philip llatclille was scourged, had
his ears cut oif, and sutfered banishment and confiscation of his property, "for
blasphemy against the church of Salem, themother-c'iurchof allthis Holy Land."
The militant disposition of the colonists was shown by the fact that during the
first few years they imported £ 18,()0i) worth of furniture, binlding materials, &c.,
while £ 22,000 wortli of arms and artillery was brought in during the same time.
In 162!> there were 10 houses here, besides the governor's house, wiiich was gar-
ni.shed with great ordnance, "and tlnis wee doubt not tiiat Cod will be with us,
and if God be with us, who can be against us." In mid.summer, 10;ii», Gov. John

•Naiimkeajr i« snid to be an Indian word meaning " Eel liind," but Cotton Mather (who
Is notliiiiKifnot Oriental) holds to its derivation f.om the Hebrew words, Kahiira (eomfort)
and Keick vhuveu).

254

Rmdc 57.

SALEM.

> I

i 'f..

If ■■■'.

Ill

■ » J

\Vinthioi> arrivifl iit K.ilctn witli 10 ships and a lar^" miniltcr of polonisfs. Tlio
lovely |,a<l.v AralMll.i .lolmsnii, tin- iiaiit,'htt'r of tli<! fvirl of Liindlii. ami tlin wile
of Isaac .liiliiisiiii, tlif \vi alt liit'st of tlii' citloiiists, was tlu; pride (if tin- sttllciiieiit,

ami tlic llaK-sliip nf tlif lltrl was iiai 1 for lier. licfdic le-aviii^' Kn'^laiid slio iii-

sislcd rm !icc(iin|iaii.viii;^' licr liiisiiaiid, " WliitlicrsDcvcr yotir fatall (IimUiic sliall
dryve y<»ii, cyllK r liy tiic fiiriniis waves of tlit^ meat (leeiiii, or l»y the iiiaiiy-foldo
and honilile tlaiiKers of tin- lamle, I wyl surely not leave your eonipany. There
can IK) jieryll cliiiunce to ine so terriltle, nor any kinde of death so eruell, that
shall not he much easier for me to ahyde tlian to live so farre separate from you,"
W'itldn .! months .ifter the landin;,', this brave piitrician hidy died at Salem (uiid
was liiiricd near |}ri<lt,'e St.). llir hnsliaiid survived her liut a month.

Winthrop and .lolmson moved S. to Charlestown, and thenia* to Boston, which
Boon herame tlie chief town and capital of thi' eoUmy (see page 7). Kndicott, I'ea-
liody, jind otlurs remained at Salem, and built mansions near North Uiver, and
the former leil the Isf .Mass. Uej^'inuMit (or;^'ani/ed in Ksse.K County, in KliiO) in a
bloodless an<l successful campaign a;^ainsttlie turbulent An;;Iieanc(doiiy at .Merry
Mount iMraintrce). In KWil the (^ualieis were persecuted at Salem, aiid in 1()7/
the; Indians on the coast of Maint; seized 'JO vessels, mostly fn'iu this town, while
4 \ess(!ls escaped by battlt; and returned to the port, bearing;- I'.twoundeil men and
sevt-ral dead. The witchcraft delusion arose in lO'.iJ in tiie family of Samuel I'arris,
]ia.stor of the adjacent villa;;e of Danvers. His dauj^hter and his idece accused
'J'ituba, a slave of the honselndd, of bewitchinj,' them, and I'arris whipjted her
uidil she conlessed it. Tituba's husband, under the inlluence of fear, chai'ged
certain other persons of the same crime, and I'arris proclaimeil that " tlie Devil
hat'i Itec'U I'aized amoni,' us, and his ra^'e is vehement and terrible, and when he
siiali be silenced the Lord only knows." The Jail of Salem was crowded with
Essex County people who had been denounced foi' diabolical couununications. 19
]iersions were hunj,' on (iallows Hill, and (Jilcs (.'ory was iiressed to death. Cotton
Mather was a leader in these per.seeutioiis, which lasted for 1(5 months, until the
^;overnment becan:e aware of its error, and released the scores of prisoners from
the jail. In partial extenuation of this sti'an^e delusif)n, it may be said that fiord
Chief Justice Hale, Loid Bacon, Sir William Blackstone, Addison, Johnson, and
other distinj^uished scholars believed in the reality of witchcraft and the pro-
jiriety of its imnishment by death. Cjuarler of the jiopulation of Salem left the
town in painc, and after all was over, I'arris acknowledged his error, and was
dismissed by his church.

In 1774 Cov. Ga^^c ordered the removal of the lej,dslature from the closed port
of Boston to Salem. In 1770 a Jhitish regiment landed here, designing to destroy
some military stores in N. Salem, but they failed to do it. I'onr Essex County
regiments were enrolled in the Continental army, while the lisheinien of Salem
armed their craft and became privateersnien, by whom 44.') Jiritish vessels were
taken during the Revolution. After the war, E. H. Derby built a fleet of fine
ships, an<l opened the East India trade, which by 181S engaged 53 Salem ships;
and from this era most of the aristocracy of the city dates its origin.

Salem has given to the State, Senator Cabot, and Timothy Pickering, a Con-
tinental otticer, who became sucee.ssively IJ. S. I'ostmaster-General (17'Jl-5),
Se(!retary of War, and Secretary of State (17!^*^- 1800). He was also a U. S. Sena-
tor, ISO;}- 11. (iov. IJradstroet, "the Nestor of New England," and Gov. Endi-
cott, spent much of their lives in Salem. Gen. Israel Putnam, of the Continental
Army ; Gen. F. W. Lander, mortally wounded after leading in some brilliant
actions of the War for the Uidon (18(52) ; and V. T. WaM, commander of the
armies of China until he was killed in the battle of Ningpo in 18(j2, were all
natives of Salem. Also were born here, John Rogers, the sculptor ; N. Bowditch,
the mathematician, astronomer, <ind author of "The Practical Navigator"; N.
I. Bowditch, the antiquarian ; J. Prince and N. Adams, clergymen ; Benjanuii
Pierce, the mathenuitician ; the eminent int rdiants, Derby, Crowninshield, Phil-
lips, and Gray ; Maria S. Cummins, the novelist ; John Pickering, the philologist ;
J. B. Felt, the annalist ; and W. H. Prescott, born 170(5, the author of histories
of Ferdinand and Isabella, the Coiaiuost of Mexico, the Conquest of Peru, and
Philip II. of Spain, amounting to 11 octavo volumes, and translated into 5 Euro-
])ean languages. Nathaniel Ilawthorne, one of the sweetest and juuest of Ameri-
can jirose-writcrs, was born at Salem in 1804. After graduating trom liowdoiu
College (1S2.'J), he settled in Salem, and from 18:-i8 to 1841 was in the Boston Cus-
tom House. In 1841 he joined the Brook Farm Conununity, and from 1843 to

MARBLEIIEAD.

llunte a?. 200

port

|sti«>y
)ui>ty

(Ull'llV

were
tiue
[lips ;

ISJ ho livoil at CoTiconl. 1840-. "iO lio wns Hurvt'yor <>f tliP ^Di-f of SaltMii, nml
\s:,',\- ")7 lit' lit'liltlif U. H. Citiisulatc at Livrrpiw)!. He dicil at Plymniuh, \. H.,
May 10, IHdl. Tlie most important of his works of romaiici' ami misicllaiiits arc,
•'Tin? Mcarlft liCtter," — a weird and powerlul romamcof liie early colonial days
of Massachusetts, —and "The Marlile Faun," wliose scene is laid in llonie, rcru-
gia, nml the Ajipenines.

Four lirancli railroa<ls run out fron> Halem.

A lim- crosses the towns of IVabody and Lynnfleld, to 'Wakefield on the Roston
and Maine U. U. 4 trains <laily puss into Dostou by this route, and over the rails
of tlie last-named company.

Tlie Salem and Lowell li. R. (pertaining,' to the Boston and l.owell 11. II.) run.s
from the st.ition near Salem Court House, to I^owcll (Jl .M). Fare, so c. ; :i trains
daily each way. This lim; crosses I'e.ihoily to Ipswich Hiver, wliicji it followi; for
(1-7 M., an<l then jiasses throU;,'h tlm towns of N. Ueadint;, Wilmin^,'ton, and
Tewkshury, to Lowell.

The, Lawrence Uranch of the Kastern II. R. runs 3 trains daily each way l»e-
tween Salem and Lawrence, through the towns of Danvers, Mitldletim, and N.
Andover.

Another branch runs to Murblehcad (4 M.), passing the Forest River Lead
Works.

Marblehead (Kldn'Jr/r Ilmise, Forsyth Ilioise) is built on a pcMiinsula
of 3,70(» acres, very rocky and uneven. It was ineorporated in llio'), atitl
a clironicler of that time calls it " Marniaracria, oppiiUun niaritiinutn,
saxis alumdaiiH." Wliitelield gazed in a.stonisliin(!nt iii)on its rooky hills
and said, " Pray, •where do they hury their dead ? " The town has about
8,000 inhabitants, and is situated on the side of a narrow, deep liarbor.
It was formerly engaged in the fi.sheries, but has latterly turned its atten-
tion to the shoe-manufactory. A full regiment marched from this town
to the Continental Army ; the crew of the Constitution frigate was mostly
enlisted here ; and it is said that the town sent more men (in jirojjortion
to its population) to the Secession War than any other place in tlio
Union. There are many quaint old colonial hou.ses here, especial'.y the
bank building, which was raised in 17C8for an aristocratic mansion, and is
but little altered. One of the churches was built in 1714, and is still
used for services.

In June, 1813, there occurred a desperate naval battle ofT thi?! coast, between the
American frigate "Chesapeake " and the Hritisli frigate; "Shannon." The ves.sels
were of about equal size, and the " Clie.sajteako " hul saileil from Boston (with a
picked-up (!rew) in answer to a challenge from tlie " Shannon," The latter vessel
was splendidly handled, and after a few close broadsides, she ran alongside the
"Chesapeake" and earned her by boarding, after a sliarj) resistance on the decks.
The Anuiriean Cai)t., Lawrence, was mortally wounded and carried below, his
last words being, " Doni give up the shi]>." The Knglish Capt., Broke, was so
badly wounded that he retired from the sei-viee, atl(;r carrying the "Chesapeake"
into Halifax in triumph, and being knighted for his gallant achievement.

Elbridge Gerry was bom at Marblehead in 1744. He was a Congressman,
177()-8j, and 1789-0:J, and signed tlie Declaration of Independence, but refusiHl
to sign the U. S. Constitution (1787). In 1812 he was elected Vice-President of
the U. S.

At this town is laid the scene of Whittier's poem, "Skipper Ireson's Ride."
Many years ago Capt. Ireson refused to take off .some of his townsmen from a
drifting wreck, because of the expense of feeding them all the way home. On
his return the citizens tarred and feathered liim, and rode him, in <» j of his own
boats, to Salem and back, he reniaiuiug silent and unresisting. Wuv-nee the re-
frain.

': 11

•t

l(.

:f,.i

250 lioiif,' .17.

liKVKKI.Y.

" Olfl Floyd Irmoii. for hln hnni hcnrt,
'I'urri'd iimi ti'iitlicrt'il iiihI ciirricil in u cart
By the woiiiuii ut' Miirblclic-u't."

In 177.'i fliiH town was finly hccoikI t<> Hontdu in iHiimlafion. Tim Mt?i Mrs>«.
('i>ntiii<'ntal lie;,'., riiiscfl licit! and in .Salcin, was niic nf tin! I'lile cnrim uC tint
army, aii<l was caljid " tin- ani|iliil)i(iii.s." It ('• rrifil tin; aimy arinss tlit- ICast
ItiviT by nii,'lit altt-r tin- <l>t(at on L<»nK' Islaml, led tin- van in <'i«).Hsiti^,' the Dela-
ware to tlm iMittlt! of 'rnnton, ami t'HC(Mt»<l Hui't^nyno'H captive nnny tliroii;,'li
New Kii;,'lan(l. 'I'Ih- .Marlii<liia<l luivatiTis 'iiil ijk at service ; one nf tiieni look u
Miitisli ship oil' Mostnii, IjkIcii with I.Mtn {ons of | >\V(|er and other stores. Tlin
"St. Helena," Kt, while convoyjn;,' a llct to lla^ana, was attacked a) ni^^ht hy
tilt) Miitisli liri;;, '• Lively." At tiawn, niter a loiiji linht, she IoimhI herself nmleV
the ^'iins of the line itf-liattle-ship " .li.iiiter." The captive Maililclit -itlers wen;
put on hoanl the " Lively." ami PJ days later they ro-e aiitl took lier, ami run into
Havana. Tht- iMiiliarj;!) (ISKi) iiiiiieil the inaiitiiiie liMsiiies.s of Marlilehcml, ami
at the close of the War of ISPJ, t, »i» of her .sailors were iji Hritish prisoriH.

Marlil«*hciul Neck is aemsH the liarlior (2 M. hy road,) ami is nsnally ilotteil
with while Icnts tliii iii;f the siiniiner. Tinker's IslamI (.sec. to the IS.) is nott il for
its ciiniier-llshin;,'. Massachusetts May was stticketl with cniiiierM (Itlack tlsh) 1>y
Ntiiiic Mttstdi'aiis, and tlicst! tleljcioiis lish lia\f piti|ia;,'ateil rapidly.

].<o>v<;II iMlantl is a small islaml 5 M. from SalcMi, wliiidi is oecnpled V>y n
lititel aifoiiiiiioilatin;,' .'tnO (guests. The islaml covers hut '2-> rocky acres, mid lias
gootl sea-air, with views of L'ape Ann, Ikverly, the Satan l{ocks, ami Marhlehtiil
with its trim little fort. A st'jainer run.s out wciveral times daily from Marhltdioail
(2 M.).

After leaving Salem the main lim^ passes tlirouj^Ii a tunnel GOO ft. loiif,',
and crosses Norlli Ilivcr on a long bridge, lictweeii which and the highway
l)ri<lge, a few rods down the stream, a fleet of yachts is moored for 8
months of the year. Station, /hirrli/, an ancient village which was
settled in 1000, luit is now ehielly l<iiown for its extensive shoe-faclories,
which are concentratetl alxuit the ])ulilic s(|iiare near the station. Lathioji
St. (named aftei- C'apt. Lalhrop, a native of l.'everly, who fell at the head
of "the Flower of Essex," in battle near Deerfield, in 1675) affords a fine
marine promenade, with an extensive viev/ over the bay, and its forts ami
i.slands.

Nathan Dane, wlio rosidotl here from 177'> to lS3r), was an rniinpnt jnrist. In
1787 ho inlrodiicetl ami fouj^lit throng;!! ( "t in^^res.s a bill excludinj^ slavery Ibrever
from the vast tloinain N. W. of the Ohio Uiver. lioliert Hantoiil, Jr., a iiowcrfnl
and popnlar politician, of remarkable purity of life and iiriiiciiiles, was btmi liere
in ISO'), lie lillcd the nnexjiircd term of Senator Webster in IS.^l. Dr. A. P.
Peabody, the eminent Unitarian divine, was also a native of IJevcrly.

Station, Wcnham and Jfnnultnn. Wcnham was settled about 1636,
and its foundation was celebrated by Rev. Hugh IVters, who preached on
the borders of its lake, from the text, " At Eiion, near to Salem, because
there was much water there." The town was called Enon for many years.
An English tourist of 16S6 wrote, '' Wenham is a delicious paradise; it
abounds with rural i)leasures, and I would choose it above all other towns
ill America to dwell in." Wenham Lake has a world-wide reputation for
its ice, which is sliipped to the remotest ports. The ice is kept free from
snow, and is cut when a foot thick, an acre producing about 1,000 tons,
wliich is stored in great buildings near the shore. These ice-houses (seen
to the 1. from the track) have double walls of wood, filled in with saw-

head
a t\ue
ts and

!st. Ill

t'orfvcr
owcrl'iil
u'u hvva
A. V.

1636,
led on
iccaiise

years,
dise; it

towns
tion for
from
10 tons,
:>s (seen
;li saw-

ii'swini.

Run w 37. 257

<lu.st, and prosfrve the ioo through tlie heats of summer. Sidn tra»'ks run
to the iie houses by whieh it is cjinied throughout this purt of the
country, or to the hliips at IJostoii. SuU'in gets its wat»'r supply froni
this hike (the largo reservoir is seen on a hill to the S. E. ), and the water
nnist bo good acconling to one writer's d prinri r'-asoning, - '* of the w)ft-
ness and purity of the waters of Essex County there ran lie no doubt,
for its ladies aro noted for their bloom and I;eauty." (Jail Hamilton (MisH
Mary A. Dodge) resides in the town of llanulton (named alter Alexander
Hamilton), a (juiet farming village about 1^ M. N. E. of the station. A
side-track leatls hero to the 1. to a largo and favorite Methodist eamp-
ground, where many thousands congregate in the month of August. It is
1 M. from the station, and its grove,-, are idled with small cottages, *60
acres of land are included in this Asbury Campground.)

A branch railroad runs frtiui 'Veiihaiii to Ks^ex, .i small s)iipt)iiili1!ng village
near the sea. lltTe was Ixnii, in IT'.Ki, Unfiis l,'li(iatt', a prnf(«iiinl ami skilful
lawyer, ami a Inilliaiit ami prrsuasivi! uialor, who was U. >S. Senator in 18-41-6,
uud afterwards Attorney-Ueneral of the Stato.

The main line now crosses Ipswich River, and stops at Ipswioh
{AyiiwuDi Iliiuse ; restaurant in the station). John Norton, ot whom
Cotton Mather aays " he spoke like Hortensius, and wrote like Abericus,"
was the pastor of this village from 1636 to 1652. His colleague was
Nathaniel Ward, the author of the "Simple Cobbler of Agawam," who
was rector of Stondon Marey, Es.sex County, Englaiul, until silenced by
Archbishop Laud for non-conformity. Capt. .lohn Smith, in 1614, spoke
of ** the many cornfields and delightful groves of Agawam," but in 1632
a lleet of 100 canoes tilled with fierce Tarratines from the Peiiob.scot laid
waste this fair Indian village and destroyed many of its people. So the
coast was clear, and John Winthrop (afterwards founder of New London
ami first Gov. of Connecticut) bought the town of the Sagamore Mascouo-
niet for ,^ 100, and settled here in 1633.

"The people are noted for their hospitality ; in summer the sea-win I
blows cool over its healthy hills; and take it for all in all, there is not a
better preserved specimen of a Puritan town in the ancient Common-
wealth." The chief village is situated on the r. of the track, on both sides
of the Ipswich River, whieh is crossed by two stone bridges, one of which
dates from 1764. The County Hou.se of Correction and Insane Asylum
are located here, and the town has a tine public library, which was given
by one of its citizens. There are a))out 3,700 inhabitants in the town,
which has some manufactures and 3 neat churches. This is the seat of
Ipswich Female Seminary, an old and famous school " where Andover
theological students are wont to take unto themselves wives of the
daughters of the Puritans."

A few miles to the E., d.owu th river, is the North Ridge on Great

' il

I \

258 Route 37.

NEWBURYPORT.

\i,'>

r *

^1 .y

I
l{ ;)•

lli ^

Neck, and Ipswicli Bluff, a favorite summer campiag-groimd for fishing-
parties.

Station, Roidcy (the chief village is over a mile S. W. ), a town largely-
composed of salt marsh. It was settled in 1638 by a nomadic church, led
by Ezekiel Rogers, who had been rector of Rowley in Yorkshire, and was
silenced for Puritanism (non-comforniity.) In 1G50 he died, leaving his
library to Harvard College, a'nl his estate to the Rowly Church. The
first cioth made in America was turned out from works erected by these
immigrants. Tlie line now runs across a wide and desolate moor, crosses
the Parker River, passes tlie Oldtown Hills on the r., crosses the Newbury-
port R. R. (Boston and Maine), and stops at

Newburyport.

Hotels. — *I.Iem*man House, 82.50 a day; Ocean House. Horse-Cars to
Amesbury by way of Merriniac St Statjes to Exeter (75 cts.), W. Amesbury,
Uavei'iiill, a;id (in summer) to Salisbury Beach aiul Plum Island 13eaeh. Steamers
to Salit;b'.iry Point in summer.

Newburyport is an ancient sea-city, beautifully situated on a declivity
facing the Merriniac River, and within 3 M. of the ocean, which is seen
from its wharves and house-tops. It has about 12,000 inhabitants, and a
valuation (in 1S70) of $7,427,700. There are 16 churches, 4 banks, and
a daily and two w^eekly newspapers. The chief vetail trade is carriotl on
in State St., while tiie wholesale trade is on the water-front, which is
traversed ))y a marginal steam-railway connected with the Eastern Rail-
road track. Since the absorption of foreign commerce by Boston, New-
buryport has be^n forced to adopt the policy of the other small cities of
the coast, and sustain itself by manufactories, while the old marine aris-
tocracy has isolated itself from the new regime. The decadence of the
city is shown by its decrease in j^opulation between 1860 and 1870, which
amounted to over 500. The streets are generally broad, straight, and quiet,
while great numbers of shade-trees are found in every part of the place,
being cared for undcr^the provisions of a fund left lor that purpose by a
public-spirited citizen. The streets which run up from the river are short,
and terminate at High St., a broad and umbrageous avenue which runs
along the crest of the ridge and is lined with mancions of the olden time.
One of these (near the head of Federal St.) is the home of Caleb Cushing,
the eminent jurist and diplomatist. Near the head of Olive St. is the
mansion formerly occupied by Lord Timothy Dexter, an eccentric
merchant who made a large fortune by singular ventures (sending a cargo
of warming-pans to the West Intlies, and other speculations of a lik.,
nature). On High St., near State, is a pond covering six acres, and sur-
rounded by a mall and terraced promenade, on which the Essex County
Court House is situated. Nearly opposite is the Putnam F'-ee School, a
high school of wide reputation, and the Roman Catholic Church, while St.

NEWBURYPORT.

nuutc 37. 259

Ik'V

Paul's Episcopal Church f.nd the graceful GoMiie Chapel cf St. Anne are
l)ut a short distance beyond (on High, near Mtuket St.). Tlie City Hall
is a large, plain building fronting on Brown Square, near which are the
North Church, ihe 1st. Baptist, and the Unitari:in (the latter having a
tall and gracefid spire).

The Public Library was founded by Josiali Little and well endowed by
George Feabody. It occupies the old Tracy mansion (on State St.> where
Washington, Lafayette, and other noble guests have men received in the
palmy days of the place. The two upper stories are now foi'me(\ into a
hall, containing about 13,000 books, while on the lower story is a large
jmblic reading-room (magazuies and newspapers). The Marine Museum
(open daily; on State St. ) contains a collection of curiosities brought in by
the ships of Newburyport. Besides the usual mementoes of distant lands
and peoples, there are shown some very elaborate and handsome models
of ships.

Oak Hill Cemetery is a beautiful rural burying-ground on State St.,
beyond High. It is entered tlirough a noblo granite gateway, bearing the
inscription, " Until the day break, and the shadows flee away." State
St. runs cut into the country, and is prolonged (under the name of the
Newburyport Turnpike) through Salem and Lyini to Boston. It was
formerly the road traversed by the great northern and eastern stage-lines.
The Old South (Presbyterian) Church is on Federal St., and has long
since entered upon its second century. Li a vault under the pulpit of
this church are the mortal remains of George Whitelield, the foumler of
the Calvinistic Methodists, who died in Newburyport in 1770. Tliis
church also has a fine whispering-gallery, only equalled by the one at St.
Paul's, Ijondon (the se.xton lives in tlie small house next to the church).
The two-story wooden house back of the Old South was the birthplace
of VV illiani Lloyd Garrison.

The river ami harbor and noi'jrhhorinf^ sea afTord fine opportunitios fi)r sailing
au'l fisliiuf^, in the suimiioi-, wliicJi are utilized by a large Ihiet of i)leiisure-buats.
A favorite drive is to the Chain Brithji'. (about ;{ M. up river), a i>la('e f)f rare
natural beauty, with the lari^e stone imuisiou, " Ilawkswood," on one bank, iui<l
on the other the cast Hated and far-viewinj^ house occnpied for several si'usons by
Sir Edward Tliorntun, the British Ambassador, .\niesbiuy is but a short dis-
tanee beyond the hridj^e, while the river-iwid to Haverhill i)asses throu!j;h pleas-
ing scenery. " The iMnrds " ava by the river-side above tlie bridge, and excur-
sions are frequently made t(» their cool and se([uestered groves.

The Devix's Den is an old excavation in the limestone ledjj;es, about 2 M. 8. of
the city (by State St.). Asbest()S, amianthus, and serpentine are found there.
bummer Academy is al>out 3 M. Ix'yond this iM)int, and is .in ancient and famous
school, which was fountled and enilowed by Gov. DnnuMcr in !".')(>. Near tiie
Academy is Dunnner Avenue, with the line.-;t lincss of elm-trees in Kssex tJounty.

3-4 M. from the city is the ancient and i»ietnres(ine Indian Hill mansion of
Hen Perley Poore, the author and iournalist. This brttail and nmblin^f old hnuso
may be called the Abl»tsFord of New Knuland, so many arc the historic curiosi-
ties which have been gathered here. The old (Jarrison House is near Oldtowu
Green, and is a well-pre.served si>eeimen of th(! massive di-fimsive archittniture (jf
the early colonial days. It was built during the IVth century, and has sulTercd
b'lt litt!' cliuu.re.

20O Routes?.

SALISBURY BEACH.

>'■ .
'i

1 it.

V 'v'

( •

The continuation of High Street by OMto\vn Green to Pipe-Stave Hill (wlii( h
i'omnmnds a broad sea-view) and Parker River, affords a tirive throuKh .» well-
settled rural distri(;t, which has an English air, in the earefuliiess of its cultiva-
tion and the antiquity of its houses. Phnv Ishiml is 2-S .M. K. of Newhurypoit,
and is "a wihl and fantastic sand-beach, reaching to Ipswich, 10-12 M. distant,
and thrown up, by tlio joint jtower of winds and waves, into the llu-usand wanton
figures of a snow-drift." It is joinenl to the city by a causeway, and has a hotel
and two lighthouses, near the N. end. The beach slo))es rapidly, and having a
strong unc'crtow, is not used for bathing, but the breaking of the sea on this bold
shore after a storm affords a grand sig!<t-.

Salisbury Beacli (stages setni-daily in summer) is 4 M. from Nev-
l)uryport, on the N. side of the Menimac. The funning town of Salis-
bury is traversed, after crossing tlie river. This town was settled in
1638, and named (in IGtO) in con)pliment to its first pastor, who came
from Salisbury in England. Many ancient houses are to be !en here;
among othv-rs the birthi)laccs of Caleb Cu.shing and of Abigail, the
mother of Daniel Webster ; also the audience-room of the royal commis-
sioners of 1699, and the provincial boundary council in 1737. A long
plank-road runs across the marshes to the beach {Atlantic House), which
is 6 M. long, extending from the Merrimac to the Hampton River. The
sand is hard, smooth, and gently sloi)ir,g, and is well adapted for long
drives, and for bathing (there is no iindertow). The low ridge of sand
above the high-tide line is taken up by a line of cottages which extends
for over a mile along the shore. Many tents are pitched on the sands
during the summer, and Whittier's poem, "The Tent o:i the Beach,"
well describes this mode of life and the scenery in the vicinity of the
beach (where its scene was laid). 1^ M. S. of the Atlantic House is the
mouth of the Merrimac River, with the picturesque I'uins of an abandoned
fort (built to command the entrance), while the city of Newburyport is
in full sight up the river. Plum Island and Cape Ann are soon on the S.
from the beach, and Boar's Head, the Isles of Shoals, and Mt. Agamcnti-
cns on the N. and N. E. Following a custom which is now two centuries
old, the people of the surrounding towns congregate here every year on a
day late in August, and enjoy themselves. Sometimes more than 25,000
people assemble on those days.

Newbury was kittled in lC3r) by a colony, under the pastor Thomas Parker,^
which entered the river since calleci Parker, in the shi)) " Hector." There are but
few towns in New England whose annals are so peaceful as are those of Newbury,
whicii in the 238 years of its histovy has not felt the tread ofa hostile foot, nor seen
the flash of a hostile gun. The interests of the maritime villfige at the mouth of
the Merrimac were found to be so di'!<;rent from those of the farming town of
Newbury, thai Newburyi)ort received a separate organization in 1764, In 1772,
S)0 vessels were built here, but the Revolution and the drain of men for the Es.sex
County regiments (dieeked the itn'sjieiity of the jilace, and in 1788 oidy 3 vessels
were Ijuilt. President Dwigiit .says of the village in 170(5, "Indeed, an air of

1 Pnrker studied nt Mngdnlon Collof?*'. Oxford, nnd cnrly distinguished himself !)y writing
two wondertul Liitin l)()oks, — " I)e 'rr..''iictione IVci-nforis *' nnd " Mtthodiis' Divinoo
Griitiiie." \VI !Mi (lid und blind, " the IIoiiilt (.f New Eiitrland," lie hud aSiinfi eontroverny
with President Chauucey. " llu went uutu thu iaunortuls, iu April, 1077, in the y2ad year
of his age."

•^

NEWBURYrORT.

Routes?. 2G1

Wenlth, taste, and elefjanrc is 8i»roacl over tliis beautiful spot, witli a choerfiilnrssi
imd brilliaiu'y to which I know no rival." Washington, Lafayette, TaUeyraini.
Louirt l'hilii)l)e of Frunee, and other famous men wt-re entertained liere l>y tlie
aristocratic families. An extensive forei^^n commerce was lirmly cslablishrci, nnd
In 1807 tlie tonnage of the i)ort was over ;{0,0()0. The Embarjif) fell with cnishinj;
force upon this maritime industry, and the '.ireat Fire oC bSll, wliicli swcjit away
lt> acres from the mo.st denstdy buili cjuarter, checked tiie itrosjicrity of tlie town,
and reduced its population to C,.'5S.S. its valuation in ISIO wasaliout tlie smimc as
in 1870. The town grew slowly, and its Merrimac-biiilt sliijjs were famous tliroiigii-
oiit the worhl for tleetness, streu;,'th, ami symmetry, and were made in large num-
bers until the decline of American commerce. The coltoii-mauiifactuie was com-
menced here in 18.50, and ij now tlie leading husiuffss of tiie. place, altiiougli con-
siderable attention is paid to the coasting trade, and tliere is a large lishing (Icet
belonging to the port. Tiie carriage bridge acro.ss the Merrimac was built in
1827, Jind the Ciiain Bridge, alx ve tiie city, was tlie lii"st suspension bridge in
America, and the second in the world. Tlie great turnpike running to Maldeu
Eridge and Boston was linislied in l.SDO, at an expeiisi; of s 4-Jo,000.

Among tlie natives of Newlmryixirt were, the lawyers, diaries Jackson, Simon
Greenleaf, John Lowell, Joseidi Blunt, and Theopliiliis I'arsun.s ; tlie plivsicians,
James Jackson and W. Ingalls ; tlie inventors, Jacob IVrkins and Kdmund Blunt ;
the i)Octs, Lucy Ilnoi-cr and H. C. Knight ; th" autliors, George Wood, tieorgc
Lunt, S. L. Knaiiii, and Hannah F. Lee ; tlie divines, J. (ireeiilcaf, Bislioj) Clarke,
(Jardnfr Spring, U. R. Xoyes, and Stejilien H. Tyng ; the generals, Michael Jack-
son (Revolutionary War, commander of the Stli Mass.), ami N. T Ja>-'kson (Secession
War) ; and the senators, William i'lumer and Tristram Ualton. Among those long
resident here were Haiiiiali F. (Jould. the ]ioett>ss ; J. B. Gniigh, the teniperanc«!
orator; Caleb Cushing, Rufus King, J (^ Adams, and Harriet' Frescott SpoH'ord.

William Lloyd Garrison, "the leader of the emancipalioiiist moveiiKiit in i\w
U. S." was born at Newliuryport in ISUl. lie began iu ailvoeate the immediate
abolition of sla\ery about bS3(), and led the movement in tliat direction until it
was accomplished, bravely enduring many jieisecutions.

A short branch railroad leads from Newburyi>ort to Ameshunj (two hotels), a
large and prosperous manufacturing village.

John G. Whittier, " the Quaker Poet " (born at Haverhill in 1807) has lived in
Amesbury since l8-!!0. His earlier years were spent in farming and .journalism.
and he was a fearless j)ioneer of the cause of Antislavery, to whose advanceiiit^iit
his life was devoted. He is peculiarly the poet of New Fnglaiid, and has written
admirable descriptiims of its rural life and society. The, ancient towns of N.
Essex and the surrounding seas have been illustrated by his legendary poems,
especially by "Snow-Bound," "The Tent on tl.a Beach," and the "Ballads of
New England."

After leaving Newburyport, the Portland train cros.-ios the Mcrrim;ic
River at a high level, on a costly and massive new bridge, 1500 ft. long.
Fine views ?se afforded (to the r.) of tlu- city and river, with the ocean iu
the distance. Stations, E. Sdlisburi/ and Seabrook, a tlnidy settled town,
whose territory is mostly covered with forests and salt marsh, and whose
name is derived from the numerons brooks which tlow through it to the
sea. Many of the people are engaged in making whale-boats, and the
inhabitants of the seaward part of the town (S. Seabrook) long bore an
unenviable reputation. Tlieir physiognomy, dialect, and clothing were
so marked and tinique that they were always recognized in the neighboring
city and designated as "Algeiines." A religious and educational mission
was established here about 1866, and is now self-supporting ai d prolific
in benefits. Seabrook was settled in 1638, and was often harried during
the Indian wars.

Station, Ilampfon Falls, S. E. of the village of the same name, which

' t|

i' .

262 Route 37.

HAMPTON BEACH.

[l 1*

( :

lias a large iiionunient erected by the State to Meshech Weare, the first

President of N. H. (1776 -85).

Dr. Lang(l(/n, oliaplain of the N. H. regiment in the Loufshurg expedition,
received 10,000 acres of land in N H. for "his services, fatigiie.s, and dangers."
He was President of Harvard University, 1774 -80, an(i pastor at Hampton Falls,
1781 -lt7, and at his death he left his line library to the village church. In August,
1737, the G tvernor of Mass. rode to this litthi h mdet at the head of the Legis-
lature and ebcorted hy 5 trooos of horse. Here, in the George Tavern, he had
long conferences about the jiroviiicial boundaries, with the Governor and Legi.s-
latureof N. H. The latter demanded the territory which now conij)oses her two
lower tiers of towns, which had been settled by Mass, men under Mass. chartera.
The Governors failed to agree, and an apjieal was sent to the King, setting forth
how " the vast, opuhnit, and overgrown provinco of Mass. was devouring the poor,
little, loyal, distressed province of N. II." The royal heart v ;s touched, and the
King commaniled Mass. to surrender two tiers of towns (28 in number) from the
Conn. River to the sea.

The railroad now passes over long tracts of salt-meadow, on the E, of
which is Han)}itou Beach an I the ocean. Station, Hampton, an ancient
village which v/as settled in 1G38, on the Indian domain of Winnicummet,
and near a block-liouse erected by Mass. in 1636 to mark its N, E. border.
The first settlers were from Norfolk in England, and were long exposed
to pitiless attacks from the Indians. The town is now a quiet and
pleasant land of peace and pkr.ty, abounding in gray old colonial man-
sions, and traversed by broad and level roads. The village near the
station ( Union House, good) has tliree churches in the ohl Puritan archi-
tecture. Stages run from the station to Hampton Beaoli, 3 M. to tlie
S. E. (* Boar's Head Hotel, 300 guests ; * Leavitt's Hampton Beach
Hotel; Eagle House; and at the Lower Beach, the Ocean House, 160
guests; Couch Hou.se.) Besides the hotels, there '".re many small sunnner
cottages on and )iear the beach. Boar's Head is a bold bluff 70 ft. high,
which projects ijito the sea from a stony strand, and affords the best marine
views on the N. H. coast. On the S. is the long and vague line of the
beaches which front Essex North -"nd stretch by Newburyport to Cape
Ann, while Mt. Agamenticus is seen in the N. beyond Rye with its village
of hotels, and the Isles of Shoals are off shore on the N. E. The Boar's
Head Hotel is favorably situated on the little grassy plateau on the bluff,
and has a fine sea view. (See Whittier's poem, " Hampton Beach.")

From the vicinity of Boar's Head a sandy beach extends S. to Hampton
River, where many vessels were made in the colonial days. The river
forms a safe harbor for coasters, tliougli its entiance is fringed with rocks
and shoals. Its clams are famous, and water-fowl formerly abounded,
while the settlement of Hampton was due to the abundance of salt hay on
its marshes, Salisbury Beach begins on the S. shore of the river, and
extends to thj Merrimac. At half and low tide may be seen the rocks
off shore, of which Whittier sings (in " The Wreck of Rivermouth "); —

" Rivermouth Rocks ore fair to ace, <• «.*

By dawn or sunset shone across,
When the ebb of the sea lias left thorn free
To dry their fringes of goM-greeu moss ;

RYE BEACH.

RoiUe ST. 263

:ks

" For tlicre the river comes wlndinc down
From snit scu-int'iulows mid iipluiuls l)rown,
And wiivcs on lln-outfr nn'ks iitouin
Shout to its wiitors, ' Welcome Home.'

" Once, in the old Colniiial days.

Two hiindrrd ^onr? ivo nnd more,
A boat pnilcd down flie wiiulinf? ways
Ot Hampton River to that low shore."

North Beach lies to the N. of Boar's Head, and wa.s formerly lined
with fish-houses from wliicli the hardy fishermen put out to sea in small
boats. A road runs N. near this stony strand, to Little Boar's Head and
Rye Beach. The beach at Hamilton is comjiosed, for the most part, of
a gradual slope seaward of hard sand, airording tine facilities for surf-
bathing and also for driving (at low tide). Tlie favorite drives from
Hampton, inland, are to Exeter, to the rich fruit-growing town, of Green-
land, to the ancient village of Hampton Falls, and to Stratham Hill.

Tlie next railroail station is N, Hampton, in r sparsely i)0pulated farm-
ing town. Stages run tliroughout tlie summer to Bye Beach ( tlie
Ocean House was burnt in Mircli, 1S73; * Farragut House, by Mrs.
Philbrick and Son, 2."50-300 guests, at .$3-3.50 a day; Sea View House,
new, accommodating 150 guests; Washington House; the Su.f House
was burnt in October, 1872, There are also several first-class board-
ing-houses near the beach). Rye is the most fashionable of the N.
H. beaches, and presents an agreeable alternation of sharp and storm-
worn ledges with strips of sand on which bathing is safe and pleas-
ant. On the S. is Little Boar's Head, a sea-beaten bluff on which
several fine cottages have been built, together with a large private
boarding-house. A long, sandy beach stretches N. E. from Jenness Beach
to Straw's Point, which was bought a few years since by Gov. Straw, and
is now occupied by the fine seaside cottages of several N. H. gentlemen.
An extensive marine view is obtained from this point, from Boone Island
Light on the N. E, to Cape Ann on the S., embracing nearly 40 M. of
coast. The vieAv of the Isbs of Shoals on the E, ii; very satisfactory,

Drake is of the opinion that " the .shore full of wliite sand, but very stony and
rocky," near which Capt. G( snold ancliorcd (in 1602), was Rye Beach. Thf town
of Rye was settled in 1G.'J5, and was named from tl<e English home of some uf the
inniiiyrants. In WM a flotilla of Indians attacked the people at iSandy Beach and
killed or captured 21 of them. In the same year the colonists retaliated by at-
tiicking an Indian band while at breakfast. The hill where this action took place
(to the r. ot Greeidand station) has ever since been called Breakfast Hill. The
little town lost .38 men in the Revolutionary War. Large sea-walls of pebbles are
seen near the Rye beaches, which were thrown up by the waves in the great storm
which destroyed Minot's Ledge Lighthouse.

Beyond N. Hampton is Greenland station, in a small fruit-growing
town. Station,

Portsmouth.

Hotels* * Rockingham House, a superbly frescoed and marble-paved hotel
of the (irst class, accommodating 250-300 guests; American House; National
House.

264 Route 37.

rORTSMOUTII.

\<'

Rallroado, to Saco and Portland ; to Xf!\vbnr>iiort, Salem, and Bostr>n ; t'»
N. Conway and the Whitt^ Mts. ; to Manclu'stcr and Concord. Htvgcs to Kittcry
and York. Steamerg daily (in snniinf-r) in 1 hr. to the Isles oi Hhoals ; also to
the Marshall lloust!, at York ; a small steam ferry-boat jilies between Portsmouth
and the Navy Yard.

The site of Port-smouth was first visited by Cajit. Prin;; in 1603, and afterwards
by Cai)t. Hnuth in 1014. In l()2;t it was settle<| (nii Odioriie's Pf)int) under the
auspices of the Laconia Company. A small foit armed with sevcnd cannon was
erected on Great Island in 1<;;$5. The town was cilled Ktrawberry JJaiik until
1(55.'}, on areount of the abundance of strawberries wiiich !,'rew on its hills and
around the " Grent House" of the i>ropri(tor, Capt. Mason. The iieojde chose
Portsmouth as " a name mos. suitabhi for this place, it bein^ the river's mouth,
and as f:ood as any in the lan<l," ;i!tliouf,di they i)robably aeceiited the idea from
Capt. Mason, " tjie foundtir of N. II.," and ])roprietor of its islands, who had
lony been governor of the South Sea Castle, in tlu) harbor of Portsmouth, Eng-
laiul. Tlic village was fortified with ]>alisa(les which effe'lually guarded it from
Indian marauders, who were repuLsed by cannon in 1070. In KiiHi, a i)arty Iande<l
near the Plains from a fleet of canoes aiid killed 14 f^nglishmen. In 173!), the
town's-people firndy resi.sted the annexation of N. H. to Miuss., and thus secured
the provincial independence of the former. In 1740, a new 10-gun battery M'as
built near Fort William and Mary, on Great Island, and a 9-gun battery was built
at Little Harbor, to resist the expected French Armada. In Dec, 1774, Sullivan
took Fort William and Mary by surjirise (with Rockingham Coiuity volunteers),
and carried away loO barrels of powder ami 15 cannon, and in 1775, the same
gentleman led the .'id N. H. Regiment to the Continental camp at Cambridge.
At the close of the Jievolution, De Warville found here "a thin pojtulation, many
houses in ruins, women and children in rags, and everything announcing decline."
A brisk era of maritime prosi)erity soon carried the town to a higher level, and
many fine mansions were built for the new families of consequence. But the
Embargo, a succession of disastrous lires, and the decline of its commen!e, fully
checked this tide of jtrosperity, and the city (chartered in 1S49) has long been
losing ground. Between 1853 and 1870 it lost over 1,800 inhabitants.

Portsmouth, the capital of New Hampshire from 1712 to 1807, and its
only seaport, is a quaint and pleasant old city (of 9,211 inhabitants),
situated on a peninsula 3 M. from the mouth of th« Piscataipia River.
*' Tliere are more quaint houses and interesting traditions in Portsmouth
than in any other to^vn in New England." The Mansard mania has not
reached these quiet and shaded streets, and the prevailing architecture
seems to be that of the colonial days. There is a fine U. S. building
here, also a few neat chiirches, while the Parade, or central square, ex-
hibits two or three specimens of curious old architecture. The city has
4 banks, 9 churches, 2 daily and 3 weekly newspapers (of which the
N. II. Gazette is the oldest American paper continuously published,
having been established in 1756). There are also manufactories of shoes,
carriages, furniture, cotton goods, &c. The qiiietness of the city, its
salubrious sea-air, the pleasant drives in the vicinity, and the nearness
of fine beaches, render Portsmouth a favorite and desirable summer-re-
sort. The Athenaium (on Market Square) has about 12,000 volumes and
a large reading-room. The old Church of St. John is worthy of a visit,
and so is Gov. Wentworth's mansion at Little Harbor (2 M. distant).
This IS a large, irregular, and picturesque building (dating from 1750)
which contains the old provincial council-chamber, and many quaint

THE ISLES OF SHOALS.

nnvte ,V. 205

ex-
has
the
|ied,
)es,
its

relics of the past, among which some portraits hy Copley will ho noticofl.
Grorge Washington paid a visit to this mansion while the Wcntworths
were still there (it passed ont of Ihoir hands in 1817). Portsmouth Ilar-
l)or is one of the host in New England, always free from ice, 70-80 ft.
deej), and the river is II M. wide opposite the citj',

Portsmouth has given to American literature, T. R. Aldricli, J T. Fields, R. P.
Slilllahcr, and Kliza B. Lee; to the cliurch. Dr. Nichols and Bishop I'arkcr; to
the bar, Jiul^^es Livermore and Langdon, and the Atkinsons : to the State, Gov.
J>cnnin<^ Wentwortli, Hir John Wcntworth, and Kenator John Uangdon ; and to
the navy, Commodores Parrott and Long, and C'onnnander Craven.

Opposite Portsmouth (steam-ferry frequently from the foot of Daniel

St. ) is the TT. S. Navy Yard, on Continental Island, in the town of Kittery

(]*.if'ne). It has extensive ship-houses, machine-shops, rigging-lofts,

wharves, and barracks; also a dry-dock which cost $ 800,000.

•

This city has ever been famed for its naval architecture. In 1000, the " Falk-
land," 54 guns, was built here ; in KirKJ. the " Bedford," ;5iJ ; in 1740, the " Amer-
ica," 40 ; in 1770, the "Raleigh," 3-2; in 1777, the " Iliingcr," 18 ; in 1784, the
" America," a superb line-of-battlo ship, which was i)iesented by Congress to the
King of France. During this century many war-vessels have been built here,
(•liief among whicli is the frigate "Congress."

Kittery Point village, near the Navy Yard and Fort McClary, has the ancient
Pepperell, Sparhawk, and Cutts mansions, line old colonial lumses, tilletl with the
renmants of their quaint furniture. Pepperell's tomb is near the llrst-naTued.

Sir William Pepperell was i)()rn at Kittery Point in 1000. He rose rapidly in
the colonial military .service until 1745., when he connnanded the expedition which
took Louisburg, for which he was knighted. He ()(;cupied imjjortant positions in
New England, was made a lieut.-gen. in the British army, and (Jov. of Ma.ss., and
died in 1759. His grandson. Sir W. P. Sparhawk, assumed the Pepperell name
and inherited the vast estates, which were sequestrated in 1778, on account of
his adherence to the British government in opposition to America.

The * Isles of Shoals are 10 M. from Portsmouth, and consist of 8
rocky islets (9 M. from the shore), the largest of Avhich contains 350
acres. There is but little vegetation on these rugged ledges, which lift
themselves out of deep water, and are surrounded by the i)urest and
coolest sea-air.

The ste mer leaves Portsmouth in the morning, and affords a fine retro-
spect of the city. The pvtblic works and national vessels at the Navy
Yard are soon passed, and then the island-town of Newcastle (on the r. ).
This town was settled before 1630, and incorporated in 1093. It was the
site of old Fort William and Mary, and now has the powerful Fort Con-
stitution and the Portsmouth Light. On the 1. Fort McClary is seen, on
Kittery Point, and the Whale's Back Lighthouse is passed, witli Frost's
and Odiorne's Points on the r. As the steamer gahis the open sea, the
coast of Maine is seen on the N. W., trending away beyond Mt. Agamen-
ticus. The Isles are now rapidly approached. The * Apjjledore lionise
is a great hotel on Appledore Island, accommodating 500 guests, at $ 3.00
a day. An immense new hotel (the Oceanic, with 275 rooms) will be
opened in the summer of 1873, on Star Island, the former site of the vil-
12

2GC nmUc37.

YORK.

»i:

l!ij:,'f5 of Gosjinrt. Several fuinily cottages will lie attached to the hotel,
aii«l leased by the seiusoii. Ou Star Island is a small cavern, where
a woiiiau once hid in a rocky recess while the Indians niassacretl the
l)eo]>le of the settlement. It is said that she killed her two children to
]>revent them from discovering her to the Indians by their cries. Another
point on the rocky shore \\ as the favorite resort of a lady school-teacher,
who Avas wont to read there, until Sei>t. 11, 1848, when a huge wave
washed her away, to be seen no more. Fine trap-dikes are found on this
island. 1 M. S. VV. is White Island, with a powerful revolving light, 87
ft. above the water, and visible 15 M. away. Haley's (or Smutty Nose)
Island is between Ai>pledore and Star, and has the graves of 16 of the
crew of the Spanish ship " Sagunto," which was lost here (in 1813) with
all on board. J)uck Island is 2 M. N. E. of A]ipledore, and is a rugged
and dangerous mass of rock- Fine fishing may be enjoyed from boats
al>out the islands, and yachts may be engaged at the hotels.

The lalps of Slinals were clisroveivd by Clinniiilniii in Kior), and were visited by
Ar^all in 1013, an<l by Wniith in 1(514. Tlie Ijist-nanied mariner named them
{Stnitli'.s Isles, but the i)resent name was early adopt'-d, and in l(i2;i "the Isles of
^^lloul<ls " are sitokcn of (derived jirobalily from the shoaling or "schooling" of
the fish arotnid the islands).

Tlie j)resent Apitledore Island was .soon colonized, and in 1()4() had a considerable
village of (isliermen, with a church ami court-house. In KiCJl, it had 40 families,
an<l in 1670 the people removed to Star Islam! for fear of the Indians, who never-
theless destroyed the colony in lOTo. In 1G47, " The humble petition of Richard
Cults and .lohn Cutting ; JSheweth —That contrary to an order or act of Court,
which says that no woman shall live on the Isles ot Shoals, John Reynolds hath
brought his wile hither, also i)igs and goats." The latter were removed by order
of the Court, but the woman remained. Star Island was fortified, and an exten-
sive lishing-business aro.se. The lish caught and cured by the islanders were sent
mostly to Si)ain and to the West Indies, and by 1770, the town had over 500 in-
liabitants. In 1870, the pojiuhitiou had dwindled to 94, and in 1872, Star Island
was purchased and depojiulated for the erection of a large hotel. Star, liOndoner's,
and White Island belong to New IIami)shire, and the others pertain to Maine. On
the night of March bi\\, 187.'5, a fearful tragedy took place on Haley's Island
(Smutty Ncse). The men of the family residing there were in Portsmouth, and
one Wagner (a Prussian) landed and murdered 2 of the 3 women then on the
island. The third escaped in the darkness and hid among the rocks and snow.

York village is 9 M. N. E. of i ortsmouth (daily stage ; steamers run
from Portsmouth to the Marshall House). It is a quiet and pleasant old
maritime hamlet, with several ancient houses, and a slender-spired church
Avhich was built in 1748. 4 M. N, are two quaint old garrison-houses, —
Mclntire's and Junkin's, while the clayey valley of York River, being
fertilized with sea-weed, has some fine farms, which are noted for their
apples and cider. On a promontory between York Harbor and the ocean
is the * Marshall House, a hotel accommodating 200 guests, with fine
fishing in the vicinit^\. li M. from the village is York Beach, one of the
best in New England, about 1 h M. long and formed of gently sloping, hard,
gray sand. The Sea Foam Cottage is a new hotel, accommodating about
100 guests, and there are 2 or 3 boarding-houses near the beach. At its

nni
old
lurch
es,—
being
their
cean
fine
If the
ard,
,boiit
t its

BALD HEAD CLIFF.

Iloute;17. 2(i7

N. end Cape NeJdick runs out into the sea, with a curious rotky isU-t
called "The Nubble," o(T*its jioint and sci)arat('d from it by a deep, nar-
row, and tide-swept channel. The Howden House is on tin; Cape, and is
a favorite resort for gunners, while jiist beyond is the village of C'a/>6'
Keddirk (small tavern).

6-7 M. from York Reach (by a bad road througli Cape Neddick)
is Mt. Afjomenticus, a lofty hill whence fine views of the ocean and of
the White Mts. may be obtained. About 5 M. N. from the beach is
* Bald Head Cliff, a remarkalde rocky ]>roniontory, ''second oidy to the
Giant's Causeway in wild and majestic grandeur." The highly inclined
strata of the ledges show long and regular stripes of vivid and variegated
colors, while the action of storms and rolling surf has broken the clilT
into curious shapes. The view from the Pulpit when a heavy sea is roll-
ing 's awe-inspiring, with such force do the great surges break on the
On its S. W. side the cli If falls sheer for 85 ft., to the
years since, a new banpie from Kennebunkport, being

rocks below,
water. Some

lightly ballasted, was driven in on BaM Head Cliff, and lost, with its crew
of 14 TT.en. Buonc Island is seen off shore, with its lighthouse, 133 ft.
above the sea. The Nottingham Galley, 10 guns, was wrecked on this
island in 1710, and a horrid cannibalism sustained the life of the few men
who were saved. Tlie long Ognnquit Leach stretches from Bald Head
Cliff to Wells.

York was settled about 1G24, and in 1042 Sir Ferdinando Gorges eatablis'-.-d
here the city of Gor,i;oana, with a full inunieipal govenuiient, and semi-yearly
fails, — to occur at the feasts of SS. James and I'aul. (lorges was Lord Palatine
of Maine, and vainly tried to establish a feudal system here. The death of Gorges
and the rise of the English rei)ut)lie made it easy for Massachusetts to take i)os-
session of Gorgeana City in 1652, and 10 ycsai-s later the province took away the
city charter, and named the town York. It was then the chief i>laee in Maine,
and received a large addition to its population hy the arrival of a detachment of
exiled Scotchmen who had been captured by Cromwell at the battle of Dunbar.
The Indians made frequent attacks on York, and in l(i76 they destroyed Caj)e
Neddick village and its people. Feb. 5, 1002, the town was attacked at dawn by
300 Indians and Frenchmen, who had uiarched from Canada on snow-shoes.
Many of the villagers gained refuge in the garrison-houses, which were success-
fully defended while the remainder of the settlement was destroyed. After a
bloody slaughter in the streets the assailants retired, leading 100 i>risoners witk
them to Canada, after killing 75 of the i)eople of York. Henceforth until 1744,
the settlers kept guarded as if in a state of siege, and throughf)ut Queen Anne's
War (1702 - 1712), spy-boats patrolled the coast between Cape Neddick and Boar's
Head. 3 comi)anies from York went to the Louisburg campaigns, and on the
morning after the battle of Lexington, 00 men marched thence to Cambridge.
The town has retrograded during the past century, and has now a farming popu-
lation of 2,654 i)ersons.

Portsmoidh to Concord.

Distance, C9 M. ; fare, 81.60 ; time, 2J- 3 hrs. The Concord trains leave their
station near that of the Eastern Railroad, and pass out to the S. W., soon reach-
ing the shore of Great Bay. Stations, Greenland and Stratham, a large fruit-
jiroducing town. From Stratham Hill a ]iretty view is affonled toward the
White MtR. At Ncvvjarket Junction, the line connects with the Boston and
Maine Railroad (Route 3S\ The train tlien passes through the farming towns of

i i

„•»

fil

■f .,

irr-

lis?

208 lioifle 37.

WELLS.

Epping, Raymond, Caiulin, and Auburn, to Manclit'ster. Fron; Mam-liostcr to
Concord, nee Koute 29.

Beyond Portsinoutli the train crosses the Plscataqua River, afl'onling a
pleasant view ^to ther.) of the ancient city, and of the distant Navy
Yard. Stations, h'i/frri/ (^ M. from Kittery Tolnt), J'Jllint (a pretty
farming-town), and Conway Junction, where trains diverge to N. Con-
way and tlie Wliite Mis., 71 M. distant (see Route .31.). 3 M. beyond
Conway Junction i.s .<?. lieririck J inicf imi, whcra tlie Roston and Maine
Railroad (Route 38) crosses the present route. S. Berwick village is 2 M.
distant, and has cunsideral)Uf manufactures. Stations, iV. Berwick and
Wdls.

Wells was founded in 164;} hy Rev. .Toliu Whcehvrif;lit, who li.nd Itren banislied
from Ma.ss. for heresy. In l(J7<i tlie settlement, was vainly attacked 1>y Mo-.^'
Me},'ono, and in 10!»2 a fnrious assaidt was made l>y ."»()(» men. led by French otll-
cers. After a 4K hours' sicKe, the enemy, led by .Si. Hinnille, (jen.'l.abocre, and
the Tarratine chiefs Madoi kawando an<l Egeremet, atteini>tcd to storm the fort,
but were disastrously repulsed by the artillery and musketry of Caj)t. Converse's
garrison. In 170a, 39 of the people of Wells were killed or c'apturecl.

Wells Village {Ocean Iinuse, 60- 75 guests, .$10-12.00 a week) is
about 4 M. S. E. of the station, and is finely situated on a high ridge
overlooking the ocean. The houses are Iniilt along the old northern post-
road, and are separated from the beach by Wells River. 1^ M. from the
village (good road) is Wells Beach {Island Leihje House, $ 3.00 a day;
Atlantic House, 100 rooms, .$12-20.00 a week), a sandy strand, with
rocky ledges off shore, furnishing good bathing and hunting. The view
from the Atlantic House is grand, endiracing Boone Island, Ogunquit
Beach, and the trend of the coast from Bald Head Cliff to Cape Porj)oise.
A short distance S. of Wells is the ancient village of Oguntpiit, with Bald
Head Cliff beyond, while 4 - 5 M. N. is Kennebunk.

Stages nin daily in summer from the station to the beach. The Boston and
Maine R, R. has now a station within 1 M. of the Atlantic House.

Station, Kennebunk (restaurant), 3 M. from the \illage {Mousam
House), which has several factories and shipyards, with 4 churches.
3-5 M. beyond are the maritime villages of Kennchunkport and Ca^ye
Porpoise. Large granite breakwaters are built out on each side of tlie
mouth of the Kennebunk River, from which a beach rims W. 2-3 M. to
the Mousam River. There are several small boarding-houses here {Sea
Vieio, Beach, and Fairvieiv Houses). Near Cape Porpoise village {Goose
Rocks House) is a group of small islands sheltering a good harbor.

This locality was first visited in ]6n2, and settled in 1620. In 1G90 the provin-
cial garrison on Stajie Island was removed, and the Indians soon attacked the
settlement, upon whicli the i»eople withdrew to the fort. Alter a long siege by
the Indians, a eri])pled man from the fort escaped by night in a leaky canoe to
Portsmouth, whence aid was sent, and the people were tiiken off. The place was
deserted for 9 years, and 3 years after its resettlement (1702) it was utterly <ie-
stroyed by 500 Indians. In 1713 the town was again occupied, and iu 1717 it was

loster to

)r(linK a
it Navy
I pretty
N. Cnii-
bpyoncl
il Maino,
?. is 2 M.
cick and

Vanished

by Mf)frK

ciicli olH-

i(«iT, and

tlu" lort.

jonversc'8

week) is

igli riiit^c

lern post-

froni tlic

)0 a (lay;

,n(\, vith

riie view

Oguiiquit

Porpoise.

itli Bald

Vston and

[Mousnm
kuirclies.
^nd Cape

le of the

3 M. to

liere {S»m

re {Goose

Ic proviii-

[icked tlif

siege I'V

i-aiioe to
Iplaec was
Itterly do-

il7 it was

Bl DDKi-'OUD.

noute 37. !2C)9

Inrorjio.Mted Ity tho Mass. L»'xij»latim!, with the name of Anuidtl. Al'ti-r lM>ariug
thii name lor 104 years, the town discanled it fur its jiresfiit iiaiiie.

Beyond Kenne))\ink tlu' train reaches Biddeford, a eity of over 1(»,0<X)
inlial)itants, with 4 l>anks ('1 of dfjiosit), 'J wt-ekly papers, and i> ehurehes.
Opi)Osito Biddeford, ami across the Saco River, is tlie eity of Saoo (Saeo
House), with 5,7r»7 inhaliitants, 4 banks (2 of deposit), and a weekly
paper. The river has 55 ft. of falls between tho cities, iurnishing a fine
water-power, which is utilized by the V'ork, Pepperell, and Laconia cot-
ton factories, running 175,000 siiindles, with about §3,000,000 capital,
and employing over 3,000 operatives. Several hundred men are engaged
in large machine sliops, while great numbers are in the lund)er-nulls.

This district was first visited l»y I)e Mouts in 1005, and Vines wintered liere in
1(117-18. I'ernianent settienicnts were made about KI.'IO, and in l(i7'> the Holvoliis
Indians were repulsed willi seven? loss from tii(! fort at tlie falls. In 1703, this fort
was tiiken by anotlier attacli, le(l by Krencli otileers, and in 1708 Fort Mary was
built. IJiddeford was boui^lit for C'.'i) l)y Wni. I'hillips, of Boston, and in 1718
received its sejtaratc incorporation, and was nanieil for an Kn^lish city whence
eanio .several of its settlers. It became! a city in IS')'). Saco was incorporated as
lN!pperellb(»rou},di in 17(i'2, and was named in honor of the knij,'lit who owned its
territory. It was called Saeo in lS().j, and lu'cainc a city in 18ti7. Tlu; eeh'brateJ
IS.ico River regiment (.^tii Maine) was raised herealionts in lS(il, and served tlirough
llie Secession War, being mo.st distin;:,ui8lied for its brilliant bayonet-cOiarge at
Uaiipahannock .Station, where it took liundreds of prisoners and the Hays of the
t;th Louisiana, and 0th, 7th, and JJ4th North Carolina regiments.

Saco Pool is about 9 M. from the station (7 M. for pedestrians, by
Fort Hill and the ferry). The steamer " Augn.sta " nms twice daily from
the pier below the falls, down tlie beautiful river to the Pool, touching at
the Ferry House, a .summer-hotel on the 1. bank near the sea.

The * Yates House (200 gue.st.s, $2.50 a day, ^12-20,00 a week) i.^ at
the Pool, together with several large boarding-liouses {Hnssei/'a Ocean
House, HolmaiCs Hujlihuvl House, ttc. ). The village is on a i>eninsula
opposite the hill on wliich are tho ruins of Fort Mary (built in 1708).
Near by is a (plaint old house of the 17th century. The Pool is a broad
and muddy-bottomed cove, which is very nearly land-locked, and is filled
by each tide. There was formerly a popular belief that whosoever en-
tered the Pool on the 22d of June would be cured of all disease. On tho
ocean-front near the hotels is a fine, sandy beach with good facilities for
surf-bathing (rent of bathing-houses, .SI. 00 a week), while a resounding
rocky .sliore stretches around toward the harbor. N. E. of tho Pool is
Sltye Island, where a British frigate destroyed 5 vessels in 1814, and
Wood Island, with a ]K)werful revolving red light. Sojourners here often
cross Saco Bay in small boats (in calm weather), to Old Orchard Beach,
which is plainly visible.

The Boston and Maine Railroad (Route 38) crosses the present route at Biddc-
foi-d, and tourists who wish U) visit the Pool will linu tliat route eiiually near.

After leaving Biddeford, the train crosses the Saco River and passes on
to Saco station, with f.no views of the sister cities ou the r. 5 M. farther

w,
Iff

I'' I

270 Route, V. PORTLAND AND ITS HNVIUONH.

on is W, S('nr))nnmgli Htntion, wlu'iice stages run in !{ M, to SoarborougA
Beaoh (Atl;intit: liduso, TjO-OO guests; Kirkwotxl llousi-, Kouicwliut
larger ; botli good liouscs ; also Heveral inexi)ensiv(! bonrding-liouscs).
The bencli is 2-3 M. long, hard, level, and safe for bathing, while the
fishing offshore is very good. A fine i)icce of forest near the Atlantic
House furnishes idc^asant walks. Trout's or Lildiy's Nuk (with two
large Huninier boarding-houses) i»roJ«-ets into the ocean I'roni the S. ««nd of
the beach, while on the N. is Ilichinond's Island, off the mouth of Spur-
wink River, and Cape Kli/.abcth with its large hotels.

This town was scttlccl atxnit i(t,'{(», iiiid in 1<)')S suluuittiMl to Mass. and acloi)tp(l
the Kn^lish iiunif, ScartntrniiK'li, in jilare of Ms Imlian nanii', (iwaHcnaK ("u pliu'o
uf nuK'li Krass " ). In Kinn l'liili|i's War it was (Icltinlcd hy tinDps of Mass.
Hj^'alnst several Indian attadis, over 'JOO men lu'in^' in K'Hi'ison licic. Tlio troops
were called uway in l(i7(), and tlu; cnciny dt-stroyi'd tin- town, and in 1077 210
Mass. soldiers were landed heri;. They were liereely attaekird, and defeated with
the 1')S8 of <iO inoii ami their eoniniamler, (.'apt. Swett. In KiMii larn*' fort (parts
of which still remain) was i>iiilt at Hlack j'oint, i>nt tiie town was abandoned
Ix^tweon KiOO and 17(ii.'. In 17<»:!, the fort was atlaclved liy M»0 men nnder M.
Beauliariu, ))ut was defended l»y u l»rave little hand from Lynn, while heavy rains
canseil the hostile mines to fall in. Alter over KM) Kn;;lish lives had heen saeri-
ficd by the In<lian.s, lSearl)or(nit4h became lirndy establi.shed, and in IT'.U was au
pojmlous as Portland (2, '_':('> inhabitants). The exodus from Maine has yrtatly
weakened this town, which in 1870 had a iiopnlation smaller by 044 souls than
that of 1701.

6 M. beyond W. Scarborougli (passing Scarborough and Cape Elizabeth
stations) the train crosses Fore liiver, and stops at I'ortluud.

ii9

►U

Portland and its Environs.

Arrival. The Boston station is about 1 M. from the centre of the city, and a
cavriajj;e should be taken, as the district to bo traversed is unattractive.

Hotels. * Falmouth House, a tin*! structure on Mid<lle St., !5::{.50 a day;
Treble House ; United Htatcs Hotel. The *«t. Julian is near the Fahnoutli, and
is one of the best European-plan hotels, — rooms, .Sl.OO a day, meals a la carte.

Horse-Cars on Con^n-ess St. from Vau<,'han 8t. to the (Jbservatory every 15
minutes; from the Freblo ibtuse, by Prelde, Portland, and (Jreen St.s., to Wood-
ford's Corner (Westbrook) ; from Congress, l»y Kiuiug, to Kmery Ht.

Iicatliiie>rooins. Tlie Y. M. C. Association, corner of Congress and Casco
Sts. : the Purthiiid Institute, in the City Hall, open 10-1, 2-0, 7-9 o'clock ; the
Athenanim, on Plum LL

Railroads. Tlip (v stern R. R., to Portsmouth and Boston (Route 37) ; the
Boston anil Maine K. R., to Lawrence and Boston (Route H8) ; Maine Central
(Portland and Kenn( lec) R. R., to Augusta and Bangor (Route 47) ; Maine Cen-
tral (Lewiston Division) to Lewiston and Bangor (Route 4(5) ; Portlan<l and Og-
densburg R. R., to N. Conway and Upper Bartlett (Route 39) ; (jars of the Knox
and Lincoln R. R., for Rockland (Route 44); Portland and Rochester R. R. ;
Grand Trunk Railway (Route 40).

Steamships. The Allan Mail Line runs between Portland and lilverpool
from Noveml)cr to May, and from May to November between Quebec and laver-
pool. Cabin-fares, §(J5- 80.00 ; thinl-'clnss, .*30.00. Vessels of the Inttrnational
Steamship Co. run thrice weekly (Mon<lays, Wednesdays, and Fridays, at t, I'. 31.)
to Eastport and St. John, connecting with steamers for Annai)olis and Halifax.
Portland to St. John, S/i.OO. A weekly steamer leaves for Halifax ilirect ; fare,
§8.00. Semi-weekly steamers leave Brown's Wharf for New York ; fare (includ-
ing state-room), !§5.00. Daily steamers leave Atlantic Wharf at 7 1*. M, for Bos-
ton : fare, $1.50 (with state-room, $2.00). Tri-wcekly steamers leave for tiie
Kennebec River, on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays, at 7 A. M. ; fa»x' d Au-

it* i

IK)

37) : the
Central
iiie L'on-
iukI Oy-
le Kiu)X
II. 11.;

ivontool
I I-ivt-r-
latioiial
1'. M.)
Halitax.
t ; fail',
(iiu-hid-
br Bos-
f(ir llie
.' I) All-

I'OIITI.ANI).

Huutejr. 271

%i%

KUhIm, $1.50. Tri-w»>i'kly Htenmt'rs also for Hie PtMiol.-seot Fliv«'r, Htoppltit; at Mix
rivtT itorts I'miii Uocklainl to llim;.;cir. Tlit- stfiiiiHT " l>'\vistt>u" K'avcs Uailiiiail
Wliarf H»'iiil-wt'»'kly for Mt. Dchi it ami MailiiaH (,him> llniiti' Vo). Smaller ImatH
Mill Heinl-wtu'Uly t>t HoollilKiy, I'finaiiuid, WaMnhnrn, and D miariscotta (see Elotittt
41) ; and H<<vi>ral tiiiit-s daily to I'cak's and ('iisliingH liilaud.s. Kxi'iU'.sion Htt'uui-
ers frcqiu-ntly aHccnd Casco Hay to IlariiHwdl.

Portland was H<>ttlt>d in K^IJ, mi tlir Indian doniain or Maclii^'oiinf, and wan
naiuwl Casco N«'ck until it |ta.ssril nntli-r tli« Mass. jjovfrnniciit in Ki.'iS. vvlu'n it
rt'ci'ived tho nainr of Falinoiilli, In 1(57(1, tlic .si'ttli-niriit was destroyed l»y the
IiuUaiis, and :t.'i of its iM-opli^ were killeil and eaptiired. The desolatetl villain
was repoimlated in 1((7S, and received an accession of Ilii^'iieiiot iiiiiiii^,'rants
from La lloclielle, hut tlie Indians soon rose a;,'ain, and in KJS'.t killed U of the
town 1,'uard on Muiijoy's Hill. In the same year, the town was menaced hy a
lai%,'t! hostile fi, rce, Itiit was <lclivercd liy the oi»i>oiliine arrival of Major (jhurcii, a
Hkiiful partisan ollleer, witli troops from tiie I'lyiiioiitli Colony. Ciiiirch marched
out to the vicinity of tlie Deerin;,' estate, and Inildly en;^'a;,'ed th(! enemy, who was
put to fli^lit after a sliarjt skiriiiisii in wliicli the I'lynioiith men lost 11 killed and
many wonnde(|. After Church had left the town (Ki'.Xi), the three main defences
were attacked l»y TyiO Frenchmen and Indians. One of them was evacuated and
(mother was HtornuMl l-'oit Loyall, tlie larnest fort on tiie coast (then on the
present sitt! t)f tho (irand Trunk station), was fairly •garrisoned ainl monnte(l 8
••aiunm. Ilavinj^ destroyed th<i villa;,'e and most of its inhabitants, the fort was
])esiej»ed for 5 days, and mined uinler the direction of the Frcu"h olllcers. Ero
the mine was Hprun;^ the fort surrendered, and the survivors of its pirrison wero
taken to Qnehee. Scores of the peojih! were killed, and UK) were made prisoners.
In I70.'l the nei^dihorinj,' villa;,'es of Spurwink and I'uriiooduck wcie destroyed,
and .05 jieoplo kille<l (u- captured. After the Teace of Llrecht, in 17l;{, the iilaco
was a;^'ain occupied and ^'rew slowly, the i>opulatiou of 7.i'l souls in MWS having
increased to li.(H»i) hy 17(54 October 18, 177'>, this jirosperous town was bom-
barded by 4 Uritish war-vessels (the Canseau, Cat. and others, under command of
Capt. Mowatt, who had previously sulfcred sonit! indi;,niiti"s here). Detachiiuiits
of marines were land(!<l, and between tlieir incendiary labors and nine hours of
eannonadiuK from the fleet, 41 1 buil<lin;^s were utterly destroyed, leavinj; but luO
standinj,'. The rebuilding of Falmouth was commenced in 178:5 ; in HS.'j, the
" Fahnouth (Jazette " was started, "to advocate the indeiiendence of Main«^ " (then
miller the Mass. government) ; and in 1780 a town was iueorpoiiited here, with
li.oOO inhabitants, under the name of Portland. In 18;S2 it became a city (popula-
tion i;i,()00), and soon afterwards bej^an the construction of gniat railway lines to
the back country. An extensive foreij^n trade sprang up, jirincipally with the
West Indies, and the city grew rai)idly in wealth and impoilance. On the night
of July 4th, ISOfi, a disastrous lire swept away one half of the compact part of the
city, pausing a loss of i} 10,000,000. Portions of the burnt district are still en-
cumbered with ruins, but by far the greater part has been covered with new and
elegant commereial buildings. Not satislicd with its connection with the West
by the Grand Trunk Railway, Portlaml has contributed laigtdy to t'l.e construc-
tion of the Portland and (fgdeusburg Itailroail, to securt: i)art of the Western
grain earriagt!, while a thinl grand route, called the Portland, Rutland, Oawego,
and Chicago Railroad, has long liecu in contemplation.

Portlaucl, the commercial metropolis of Maine (witli 31,408 inluil»itant.s
and a valuation of .$30,000,000), is situated on a high i»eniii.sula in the
S. W. end of Casco Bay. Its harbor is deep and well sheltered, and
defended by three powerful forts, while several large islands beyond aiTord
favorite resorts in the summer season. The peninsula on wliich the city
is built is 3 M. long, and at the centre is little over h M. wide. It is
bounded by Portland Harbor and Fore River on the S. and W., and by
Back Cove, on the N. Bramhall's Hill, on tlie W. of the peninsula, is
175ft. high; Munjoy's Hill, on the E., 's IGl ft.; and the central part
of the city is 57 ft. above Ihe water. The Western Promenade looks down

272 Route 37.

PORTLAND.

u ,

rJ I

on tlie rural environs from Bramhall's llill, and from t)us point Congress
St. runs down tlie length of the i)eninsula to the Eastern Promenade on
Muiijoy's Hill, from which i'ma views of the bay and islands may be ob-
tained. Each of these promenades is 150 ft. wide, di ided into sections,
and planted Avith lines of trees.

The City Hall is a large and imposing building of light Nova Scotia
stone, surmounted by h singular dome. Passing from this poir.t uj)
Congress St., with Lincoln Park on the r., the Roman Catholic Bishop's
Palace is seen on the 1., and the large Cathedral of the Immaculate Con-
ception. Beyond St. Luke's Churc.li (Epis.) on the 1., a large building
occup' ;l by a graded city school is i)assed, and alongside of it the old
Eastern Cemetery is seen.

Among tli()S(! wlio are buried here are Commodore Prehle and Captains Bur-
rouglis and IJlytlie. Kuward Preble was ]>oni at Poitlaiid in 1761, and was an
officer in the American Navy during the Revohition. He commanded the squad-
ron wliicli sailed to Tripoli in 18();{, an<l huml)led its jiiratical people by several
bombardments of the city, at the same time averting the danj-'.ers of a war between
the Emperor of Morocco and the United Htjites. Burrouglis and Blytlie eom-
niauded respectively the American w;ir-vessel, the " Enterpr se," and the British
brig, the " Boxer," which fought ofl" Pemaquid in 181:$. After a sharp action of
48 minutes, in which both captains were killed, the " Boxer " surrendered and was
taken into Portlan<l.

Just beyond the cemetery is the observatory on Munjoy's Hill, which
should be ascended for the sake of its extensive *view (small fee to the
keeper). To the S. W., on the heiglits beyond Fore River, is the fine
castellated building of the Slate Ite/orm School, with the plains of Scar-
borough and Saco beyond, and far down the coast is the blue cone of Mt.
Agamenticus. Portland and its inner harbor lie to the S. and W., with
Bramhall's Hill at the further end of the ridge. To the N. W. is the
village of Gorham (Maine), over Back Cove and Deering's Oaks, and far
beyond, SO M. distant, the White Mts. may be seen in clear weather. N.
E. are the numerous verdant islands in the blue waters of Casco Bay, with
the bending shores of Falmouth and Cumberland. The lighthouse on
Seguin Island, at the mouth of the Kennebec, 25 M. distant, is easily
.seen by tlie aid of the telescope suspended from the loof, wh" ! on the
E. is the outer harbor, with Peak's and Cushing's Islands, and the mas-
sive fortifications, S. E. is t ape Elizabeth, with its .summer hotels, and
the Twin Sisters (Portland lighthouses). A short distance beyond the
Observatory is the Eastern Promenade. The Marine Hospital, which
may be seen from tliis point, is a fine building fronting on the Bay at
Martin's Point.

The U. S. Custom House is an elegant granite building in the peculiar
stjde which has been introduced Ijy tlie architects of the present Adminis-
tration. The inner hall, with its ehiDorate marble ornamentation, is
worthy of a visit. A short distance N. E. of the Custom House are tho

Congress
nade on
y be o))-
sections,

a Scotia
loir.t up
Bishop's
ale Con-
l)uil(ling
the old

^ins Bur-
id was an
he squad-
l)y several
ir ])etween
ythe eom-
lie Britisli
action of
d and waa

ill, which
ee to the
the fine
of Scar-
16 of Mt.
W., with
W. is the
?, and far
ther. N.
Bay, with
house on
, is easily
' 1 on the
the mas-
lotels, and
3yond the
tal, which
le Bay at

e peculiar
: Adminis-
itation, is
se are tho

KTTjAM).

RUIiWAY STAT'ONS.

1 1. Fvi-hu'ii/iTivd St.JJin .

Sf-hiHft and y f/riiuitv Jtfi

1 2. F,r Prrlsm, ulh ,m,l lirsli i, . I Jfi
I.I. K r hi i-liiwt. iini/.\fi tilri ril G.'>

My FrrJKyrrwi-'hf.^l- ii

Y.I

ir>. CiHi.J,,- <\iih.;hJ . i;F-ji

r . ■ V,;

lilt
up.

ihis
1,

(m-
reu
iral

ten

I
f

Cli-
cks
lan
i it
ith
ind
rge
my
liiii
riy

247

are

las
snt
om

lis,
lya
ew
iu
tie,
:he
.w,

ito
int
:he
yax
m-
iie,
)or

\i%

Ili

roimjiVM).

I. atyHnll.

."). i'nslimt lloatif.

4. Ohsfrviih'ry ■

T). .\Urhimir.s ' Hall .

HOTELS.

7. .SV. .hihan .

8. Prebh.

10. (^cmmftiuil .

£5
F4

1)4

Do
E3

HAlliWAY STATIONS

1 1. tWfiwii/iTiVhl -^Kjohn ,

Sehitf/{ <#w</,V' ('/>nuiiv ])U

1 2. AV- IVrlmiviilh uuJiirsU ,1 I >r»
15. FdOii'luuii tinil.\1iJilrt III (».')
W.FnRiuin.tfr 1/2
Id. Frrlhyriiniiiltfl'ii \)l>

\'t. l.ilh.J,,' latlhiilta! .

.,~-J

1 I

•

■in t

)Nl !

[I •

272 Jtoula

on the rur.il
.St. runs (low
Mnnjoy's IK
tained. Eac
and planted
The City 3
stono, siinni
Congress 8t.
Palace is see
ception. JU
oc(nii»ied by
Eastern Cein

Amiin<,' tlioj
roughs and ]J!
ndiccr in the .
roil winch sai
liiiiuhanliiient
the Kn.peror
iiianded respe
Jjiig. the " lie
48 niiuutes, in
taken into To

Just beyo
should be as
keeper). T<
castellated I
borough and
Aganienticu,
Bramhall's ]
village of Gi
beyond, 80 :
E. are the ni
the bending
Scynin Islai
.seen by the
E. is the ou
sive fortifiei
the Twin S
Observatorj
may be seei
Martin's Po

Tlie U. S.
style which
tration. T
worthy of

; i

U'V

ENVIRONS OF POIITLANIJ. Route 37. 273

J iers of the New York, Boston, aiul Liverpool lines of steamers, aud the
i.-xtensive termitial station of the Gnmd Trunk Hallway.

The * Post Office is a beautiful structure of white Vermont marble, built
in the mediaival Italian aroliitccturc, with an elegant ui>per portico sup-
ported by Corinthian columns, Tliou^di small, this is one of the richest
and most pleasing of the national ])uildings in New England. In this
vicinity are the stately buildings of the City Hall and the Falmouth Hotel,
with many line commercial buildings. Heyoml the Mechanics' Hall a
succession of fine residences are seen stretching up the slopes of liram-
hall's Hill, on streets so thickly lined with shade-trees as to have given
to Portland the name of "the Forest City." The trees in the central
streets were destroyed during the great tire of 18t)t3.

The Society of Natural History has good collections of shells, minerals,
birds, &c. ; and the libraries of the Atiiena-um and Institute are often
visited. There are several neat stone churches in the city.

The connuercial facilitii^s of Portlaml liavi^ hci'ii Kri'atly increased by the con-
strui'tion of a iiiar;,'iiial railway aloii.i; tlic water-front oi'thc city, with side-tracks
ruiniiu}^ down the wiiarves. Tiio cliicf naval visitor since 1775 was the leviathan
steanisiiip "(Jrcat Kastcrn," which is | M. long and wci^,'lis 'IIJAM) tons, yet it
found ample dcjith of water here. The principal trade of I'ortland has l)ecn with
Havana, vast amounts of sliooks aiid suj,'ar-l)arrcls havin;^ hetni sent there, and
repaid hy return car;^oes of sugar and molasses, which were worked over in large
refineries in the city. Hrown's sngar-lionse is tht; lofty Imilding with many
small windows, bet\.e n the railroad station and tlie city. It was rebuilt within
(JO days after the (ireat Fire. In 1S70 then; were received at Portland nearly
15,01)0 hogsheads of sugar and 4.0,000 hogsheads of molasses.

The city is supplied with water fn^Mi Lake Sebago, 17 M. distint, wh'.'h is 247
ft. above tide-water, and is sa,.i to ha v'l the purest lake-water in tlu; v>orhl. 20
M. of i)ij)es umlerlie the city and convey the w.iter to all its parts. There are
here 3 daily i»ai)ers, 7 weeklies, and .{ monthlies.

Evergreen Cennitery is 2\ M. from I'ortland (l)y stage or railway), and has
l>leasant '.voodland grounds covering .')') acres. Tlicre is a line (Jothi<! monument
of Caen stone over the remains of William Pitt Fessenden, U. 8. Senator from
1S51 to lS(j',t.

Portland was the liirthi)lace of Henry W. Longfellow, the i>f.et ; N. P. Willis,
the poet and traveller ; Sara P. Parton (Willis's sister), who wrote popular essays
under the pseudonym of "Fanny Fern"; luastus and James Lruuks, the New
York journalists and ]>oliti(ians ; Rear-. admiral Allien, who was distinguished iu
the navai battles at Vera ("ruz. New Orleans, and .Mobile ; Commodore Preble,
who conuuanded in the Tripolitan War; Capt. (i. II. I'reble, who fought iu the
Mexican and Secession wars ; John Neal, the poet and novelist ; and Neal Duw,
the reformer.

Environs of Portland.

Cape Elizabeth is S. of the harbor, and stretches its rugged cliffs into

the ocean. The drives over this surf-beaten promontory are very pleasant

I during the summer, and extend to the Twin Sisters lighthouses, at the

I end of the cape, 9 M. from the city. The Cape Cuttage is 3 M. from

I'ortland, and is a large and picturesfiue hotel, built of stone, and accom-

luoilating 100 guests (frequent stages to the city). The scenery is fine,

cm bracing the shoreless ocean on one hand and the entrance to the harbor

12* B

274 JHouteSr. ENVIRONS OF PORTLAND.

' i

■ 1

on tlie other. 5 M. beyond this jioint is the Ocea7i House, a large hotel
near a hard, sandy Iteach, witii good facilities for surf-bathing. 10 M.
from Portland is the Atlantic House, on Scarborougli Beacli. The l'(trt-
land LijlU is 3.j M. from the city, on a high blulf which commands broad
sea-views. A steam-ferry runs from Custom House Wharf to Cape
Eliznbeth village, and ^ M. from its i)ier is Fwt Preble, a small but strong
work on a commanding point. To the N. is the town of Ca})e pjlizabeth,
and 2^ M. from Portland is the f'ne building of the State Jifform Sehot/l.

Steamers run several times daily (in summer) to the islands in Casco
Bay. This is one of the jdeasantest short marine excursions on the coast,
and can be made in 3-4 hours, although it is better to go down on a fore-
noon boat, dine at the Ottawa House, spend the afternoon on Cushing's
Island, and return on the afternoon boat.

The steamer leaves the pier and j)asses into the harbor, with Fort
Preble on the low point to the r., and the more powerful works of Forts
Scammel and Gorges on islands in front. Beautiful retrospects are af-
forded of Portland, rising in terraced lines along its hills. Casco Bay,
over a snuvll part of whic^ the steamer jxisses, is one of the most pic-
turesque of American bays, and some enthusiastic persons rank it next to
the Italian Bay of Naples. It is popularly supposed to contain 365
i.ciands (like Lake Wiunejiesaukee), and its green archipelago abounds in
good fishing-places. Boats of all sizes, with experienced captains, may
be hired in Portland. Diamond Island, about .5 jM. from the city, is fre-
quently visited by large parties, and has noble groves of old trees, with a
bold, rocky shore opening occasionally in level strips of beach. Diamond,
Pleasant, and Indian Coves are beautiful and sequestered inlets, bordered
with beeches, majjles, and oaks. Peak's Island is 4 M. from the city,
and is a popular summer-resort for the people of Cumberland County.
There are several small and inexpensive hotels h'jre (Casco House, Union
House, ai. I others), and line views of the city with its harbor and de-
fences, the curving coast of Cape Elizabeth, and the shoreless ocean, are
enjoyed.

♦Cushing's Island is 3 - 4 M. from the city (frequent steamers), and
is the outermost of the islands in this direction, facing the ocean. The
* Ottawa House is the only one on the island, which covers 250 acres, and
is composed of high bluffs. This hotel is a favorite resort for Canadians,
who are usually in the majority here. The building is of brick, and
accommodates 150 guests, at $14-18.00 a week. The view from the
cupola of the Ottawa House (ior patrons only) is beautiful, including on
one side the lovely islets of Casco Bay, then the level-horizoned ocean,
the ship channel, and the bold shores of Cape Elizabeth. But the view
over the harbor towards and including Portland is the most pleasing.
The forts are seen in the foreground, Peak's Island on the r., and in the

BOSTON TO POllTLAND.

Rviik 3S. 275

hotel
10 M.

i broad
) Cape
. strong
zabeth,
Hchool.
1 Casco
le coivst,
\ a fore-
usUing's

ith Fort
of Forts
i are af-
■ico Bay,
iiost pic-
t next to
itain 365
lounds in
lins, may
ty, is fre-
:s, with a
ianioud,
bordered
the city,
(joiinty.
,e, Union
and de-
(cean, are

ers), and
;an. The
Lcres, and
'anadians,
frick, and
from the
Lding on
ted ocean,
the view
pleasing.
,nd in the

llu^

remotij N. W., if the day is clear, tlie White Mts. are visible, Sandy
bt'aches for batliitij,', atid rocks projectinj,' in deep water, for fishin;;, lie
along the sliore. An cniboNvurod patli leads along the ridge to the upper
end of the island, ])assing tlirou|^'h ii line (-('(lar fon'st. TIic walk ciids nn
the verge of a lofty precipice of storm-beaten rock (t-alleil White Head),
connnanding fine views of the ocean, the bay, and the city.

Steamers run occasionally in the summer up the length of Casco Bay,
to llarpswell, a (piiet old peninsular town rendiM-ed classic by Mrs.
Stowe's romance, " The Pearl of Orr's Island," and by Whit tier's jmeni.
"The Dead Ship of Harpswell." Portland to Bangor ami St. Jolm, see
lioute 47 and 49.

38. Boston to Portland.

By the Boston ami Maine Raihoad. — Boston tu Portlaml, 115 M, ; faro S.^.OO.

After leaving the terminal station on Ilayniarket S(iuare, IJoston, the
line crosses the Charles liiver, i)asses over Prison Point, in Churlestowu,
stops before the crossings of the Fitchburg and the Eastern Railroads,
and reaches Somervillu station. On Wintc^r Hill, in this town, the cap-
tive army of Burgoyne was cantoned for many months. The city of
Somerville was named in honor of Richard Somers, a brave naval oflicer,
who was killed in the Trijjolitan War. Leaving Charlestown Heights
on the r., the line crosses the broad Mystic River, and stops at E.
Medford, whence a branch line runs to Medfonl, a busy village interested
in .ship-building and other i)rotitable industries. Tufts College, a tlourish-
ing institution under the cave of the Universalist Church, is near Medford,
and on Ship St. is a solid and low-windowed brick house that was built
by Gov. Cradock's nien in 16-34.

Station, Maiden (Maiden House, Pratt's Hotel), the old " Mystic Side,"
and now an important manufacturing village near the clustering hills
which were likened by President Dwight to " the sweeping llourislies of a
graceful penman."

Adoniram Judson, the apostle of Burmah, was born at Maiden in 1788.
He spent 40 years in and near Rangoon, translated the Bible and other
books into Burmese, a^d although he was at times cliained and impris-
oned, he succeeded in building up a powerful church with thousands of
members.

Stations, Wyoming and Melrose, pleasant suburban villages of recent
origin. Spot Pond, a favorite summer-day's resort, is lt;ss than 2 M. W.
of Wyoming. Stoneham station is 2 M, E, of the village of Stoneham
(Central House), to which it is joined by a horse-railroad, Stoneham has
22 shoe factories, and does a busines.) of about § 3,000,000 a year. The
main line next passes Greenwood, then runs along Crystal Lake (on the

270 Route SS. WAKEFIELD TO NEVVIiUUYI'OUT.

1^
r. I

i ■

•I

I !

^ • i

1.), and stops nt WaluflcM .Iiinction, whence a branch line diverges to the
E., reucliiiig Salcni by way of Lynnli»!ld and k'eubody.

Wdh'Jir/il to Nf'whuri/port.

A branch railroad runs from Waktriild Jiniction to Ncwbnryport in 30
M. Lcavinj,' tlm elegant mansion and grounds of Cyrus Wakelield, and
Wakefield Hall, his princely gift to the. town, on the 1., and the exlensivo
r:itt an- works on Ihe i'., the branch line soon crosses the Saugus River, and
enters Essex County. Stations, Lynnlield Centre, W, Danvers (where
the Salem and Lowell Railroa<l is crossed), and Danvers. Tin; latter is an
ancient town, which was settle<l before the mitldle of the 17th century.
The witchcraft delusion arose here in 1G92, and in 1774 a strong IJritish
force was cantoned on Danvers Plai'-s, in order to overawe Essex County.
The town is now dependent on large shoe manufactories, with carpet-
works and a rolling-ndll. The train soon crosses the Salem and Lawrence
Railroad, and runs N. through the thinly settled towns of Central Essex.
Station, Topsfleld (Topsfield House), settled in 1G;39, on the scanty in-
tervales along the I])swich River. Box ford, a sterile town, was incor-
jjorated in 1G86, and has two box -factories. Station, Georgetown (Pen-
tucket Hon e), a bright and busy village E. of the railroad, with consid-
erable manufactories of boots, shoes, and carriages. George Peabody,
the eminent i»hilanthroi)ist, was employed in this town in his younger
days (1812-13), and has evinced h.is pleasant memories of it by present-
ing to Georgetown a tine ]niblic library and fund. The Memorial Church
is a monument of his fdial regard. S. W. of the village is Bald Pate, the
highest hill in Essex.

A branch railroad runs N. W. from Georgetown through the towns of
Groveland and Bradford, to the city of Haverhill (7^ M.).

The train crosses the town of Newbury, and in 9 M. from Georgetown
reaches Ncwlnn-yjwrt (see Route 87).

Wakelield was settled in 1G30, and was for over two centuries known as
S. Reading. In 18(58 it assumed its present name in honor of a Avealthy
citizen who had greatly beneliteil it. Cyrus Wakefield introduced the
rattan-working industry into this country, and has large factories here.
His fine residence is seen near the track. The town has 4,135 inhabitants,
and possesses several shoe factories.

Passing Lake Quanapowitt (on the r. ), the train reaches Reading^
devoted to the manufacture of shoes, cabinet-ware, organs, &c. Stations,
Wilmington, Wilmington Junction (where the Salem and Lowell Railroad
crosses the jtresent route), Ballardvale (with factories making files, Bris-
tol polish, and tlannels), and Andover {Elm House; Afandnn House).
This ancient academic town was settled about 1G43, on the Indian domain
of Cochichewick, which was bought from the natives for $2G.64 and a

]

ANDOVEll.

J{»,((c.is. 277

,0 the

in 30
\, and
i-nsivo
;r, and
(where
L;r is an
•ntury.
UiilisU
'ounty.
c-arpet-
iwrence
Essex.
mty in-
s incor-
n (Pen-
consid-
'cal)ody,
younger
pvesent-
Church
'lite, tiie

)wn8 of

|)rgetown

tnown as
J Avealtliy
liced the

its iiere.

ibitants,

leading^

stations,

iRailroad

]es, Bris-

Ilouse).

■i domain

U and a

coal;. Anilovcr lia< sotno active niannfaitnres, Imt is cliiflly fiinied fur ils
schools. The l'iuich;inl High School is a local iiistitntion of high sfuutl-
ing. I'hillips Academy occuj)ie8 a fine bnilding on the hill, anil is of wiilo
reputation. It was endowed hy the rhillijjs family, in 1778, with .? S.'»,000
an<l consi<leraMe h'nded estates, and has since occupied a prominent posi-
tion. The Abbot Fennile Seininary is an old and famous school for youii<»
ladies. The Theological Seminary of the Congit-gational Church was
founded about 1S08, and soon after received liberal endowments (,§ 12' >, 000
from Samuel Abbot and .S'J'>0,000 from William IJartlett). This insti-
tution has long beeTi " the school of the pro])hots " for the sect to which
it belongs, and has |»repared its ablest divines for their work. Up to 1871
it had graduated 2,11)1 men, and in lS7'i it liad 7 professors and 81
students. It is umler the Presidency of E. A.Park, I). I)., a prominent
divine, who is also the editor of the learned <piarterly, the iJihliotlu-'ca
Sacra, which is published here. Its buildings are very ])lain, causing the
visitor to wonder "if orthodo.x angels have tiot lifted up old Harvard and
Massachusetts Halls, ami carried them by niglit from Camhridgi^ to
Andover Hill." IJut the situation is one of extreme beauty, and tho
grounds are quiet and abounding in trees. In front of the line of build-
ings is a long walk shaded by four lir>es of trees, near who.se upper end is
Brecliin Hall, a handsome biiilding of local stone, which contains a library
of about 30,000 volumes, and a few curiosities. A copy of Eliot's Indian
Bible, a super!) copy of the Codc.x Sinaiticu.s, and vf.rious trophies from
the mission fields are to be seen here.

John anct Peter Smith came to Andover from Brechin, in Si 'tland, many years
ago, an<l amnssc<l I;ir;,'e t'ortiiiu's. Tlicv built and ;.;.iv<' IMcchiii Hall to the
Seminary, and enn ted iiol)le schools in their native Bruchin, on a hill which they
caused to be named Andover Hill.

S. of the grounds, and near the Mansion House, is the old home of
Leonard Woods, D. D., an eminent Calvinistic theologian, who taught in
the Seminary, 1808-46, meanwhile holding controversies witli the Uni-
tarians on one side, the Episcopalians on the other, and the Baptists and
Swedenborgians. The Printery and several dormitory buildings are ou
streets near by.

Andover was so named because its first settlers came from Andover i:i
England. It supported 100 men in the Continental Army. Elizal)cl.?i
Stuart Phelps, authoress of "Sunny Side," &c., and her daughter, E. S.
Phelps, authoress of " Gates Ajar," &c., were boni here.

Tliere are pretty ponds in Andover, and the valley of the Shawsluno
River has some pleasant rural scenery, while the view from Andover Hill
(at sunset especially) is highly praised. Many summer visitors stay here,
partly attracted by the fine society.

After leaving Andover, the train arrives at S. Lawrence, opposite tho
city of Lawrence. Some of the through trains cross the river and enter

278 Ilnufr.lS.

LAWflKXCF':

►

i I

tlio city, wliilc otiirrs do not, 1>iit procndl down ihv r. bank of the rivor to
lliiVfiliill. If is Iiiit ;i lew minutes' walk over the Merriniae Iliver, wliilo
from tlic bridge tli(! traveller gots views of the great dam (on the 1.) and of
tlic long line of factories (on the r. and front).

Lawrence.

Ilotolg.— • Franklin Ilotiso, a small but elegantly aitpointed hotel opposite
the 11. U. Station, !?'J..'il) a day : fiawrenee Hotel ; Essex Hotel.

This city was founiU;d by tlie Kssex Co!ni»aiiy in 1844, and rontaincd,
in 1845, 10(1, ami in 1S47, M,00() inhabitants. A iiowerful stone dam was
built across the river, K'^'in^' 'i '^•ill '^'f 28 ft. and a water-[)ower e(|ual to
10,000 liorse-power. A canal 1 M. long (larries the water ah)ng the lino
of mills, parallel with the river and 400 ft. from it, and another lotig canal
is cut on the S. bank. The [trinripal factories art! the Pemlxn'ton Mills,
28,000 spindles, >sr)(» oju'ratives; the Everett Mills, 31,000 spindles, IW.O
operatives; the Washington Mills, <)2,000 sj)indles, 1,'JH.') looms, and 2,!KM)
operatives (using 1,J{00 tons of wool annually, making broaddoMi, <loe-
.skins, shawls, cambrics, &c.) ; the Pacific Mills, 1J}<5,()04 sj)indles, .3,7<52
looms, with a capital of jjjs 2,r)00,000, eujploying 2,400 women and 1,200
men, making calicoes, lawns, flress-goods, &c. ; the Atlantic Mills, .'>6,000
spindles, 1,538 looms, with $1,500,000 capital, and 1,200 hands, making
10,040,000 yards of sheetinf,s and shirtings ; the Lawrence Woollen f'o. ;
the Arlington Woollen Mills; the Russell Paper Co. ; and several foun-
dries,

Lawrence (28,932 inhabitants) is one of the three capitals of Essex Co.,
and is the most beautiful of the manufacturing cities of New England.
The mills are separated from the city by the caiuU, and their great depen-
dent boarding-houses are isolated by a wide green. The city has 18
churches, 5 Masonic loilges, 4 lodges of Odd Fellows, 3 weekly and 2 daily
new.spapers. The Common is a line green H([uare, with abundance of
trees, having on its N. side the liandsome Oliver High School and the
Central CVuig. Church. On the E. is the 1st Unitarian and Grace Church
(Epis. ), while on the S. are the elegant city and i;oiinty building.s. In tho
base of the tower of the City Hall are two Inige cannon-balls which wero
tired from the iron-clad fleet on the rebellious city of Charleston. Tlio
"Lawrence American," the lea<ling <laih' paper of Essex Co., has a fine
building. The city has good public libraries, several of which pertain to
the cotton-mills. The valuation of Lawrence (1870) is § 17,500,000. On
a street leading W. from the Common is the stately and elegant church of
the Immaculate Conception (Roman Catholic) in ths purest of the simpler
forms of Gothic architecture. This church was six years in building, and
is of a handsome gray stone, witli interior arches, columns, and a lofty
clere-story and spire of the same material. In its vicinity are several

■^

I '

MAVHKIIFI.L.

lioifft'JS. 271)

river to
r, wliilo
) and of

opposite

)iitainc«l,
(lain was

cMiual to

tlie lino
Diig canal
on Mills,
lilies, 9<)»)
an.l 2/.>0«)
:l(i*ll, <lo<'-
lU's, 3,70-2

an.ll,200
lis, r)6,00()
Is, niakin;^
jollon Co.;

eral fonn-

ssex Co.,
Engiantl.
at (U'l'pn-
y has 18
and 2 daily
ndance of
ol and the
ace Chnrch
gs. In the
which were
ton. The
has a lino
pertain to
)0,000. On
t church of
the sinipK^v
lilding, and
md a lolly
are several

f'afliolic institutions, which am powerful and highly heneficent m their
workings among tho factory populafions.

Tlie f ity wfiH naincil fnnii AMmt I/iwrfnoc, a wonlthy iitv\ itliilanthrojiic noHton
nicrch.'mt, wlin \v;is ntw of its I'uuinlcr.i. If*- was a iiicniluTol L'oriK'ifH.s for ftyvi

«■;..: ..A .... 4 .. I.*... ^ I I I k.> I f k I *j r .1 I I . . ... . I i l. . ■ _ cj . ■ .. i : /> i^i i ' i

ars.

Minister t<i i;ii;,'l,iiiil LSI!* - Ih:)'.', ami riiilowcil t lie I.awn'iicp Sfi«iitific Mchonl (at.
Cam'iriilnf) with !? 10(1,000. His son \v,n ChuhuI (i..|irral to Italy, l.S(V.'-<», aixl lii.s
hrtttJK'r Amos was cmiiii'nt for liis K<'iit'i''>sity, haviii;; kIvcii .-Jt -.OOOiOOO for cliari
t.-ililc, ciliii'iitioiial, jiixl ri'li^'ioiis works.

Oil." of tlio most tiirrililc accidi'iits in Amorican history took place here Jan. 10.
isfjo, wlicn the i'l-mltcrtoii Mills fell, on aiioimt of thin w.ilis an<l insiidlcicnt ;;up
ports, and can;,'!!! Iik" soon iiritr. limning' alive many who li.id licrn ciMRlit in tho
iallinj? ruins. ^>'2'> persons were killid and wounded on that dre.idful day.

The Lowell ami l-;iw reme IHvisiou of the IJostoii and l.owell II. U. runs from
Lawrence to Low(dl, t!irou;:h the towns of Andover and Tewksbury. There, are 4
trains each way daily, in lu minutes. Distance, l:t M ; fare, 10 c.

The Manchester and Lawrence U. I{. runs N. W. to Mam hester, N. 11., in 70
minutes. Dist.ani'c, I'd M. ; fare, SOc. This line passes throu;.''.i Mrthm-ii, a Honrisli-
iiii; hi;;ldand villa;^e ne.ir the F.ills of the Sjii^^'ot Itiver. Ahout :( .M. beyond Law-
rence the line enters the State of New ILinipshire. St.it ions, Salem .ind Windham.
The latter villaj{e is'ij M. S. of the station. This town has a few lar^'e ponds, and
CJlehc .Mt. (I, .son ft. Id-h). Station, /'•//// (st.wes to vill.iKc J M. K.), famous tor
apples. 200 city i>eople spent th(! summer of 187-' anion;,' the quiet farms in this
town.

Station.s, Wilson's and Lnndomlerrji (st.'i;;es to the villap;, 2 M. M.). Thi.s town
wa.s .settled in 171'.' l>y a eolony of Scotch l'resl>\ terians, from L'lster i'n , Indaml,
ami was named for the old country liondoiideiry, in whose lorn; and terrible sie;,'e
several of the immi;;rants h.id been en^'a;;ed. Heforo their settlement tin- distriet.
w;iH called NutlieM, from the abumlaiicc of its 'lut -trees, ( >n the iirst d.iy of their
arrival, the settlers collected under a iiroixt o.ik-treo, and heard a sermon from
their jtastor, after whii h they be;,'an to build their cibins. Although on the
remote frontiers, the town was never molested l.y tlie Lranco-Imliau marauders,
commands to that effect h.ivini,' been issued by the .Marquis de Vaudreiiil, flov.-
fJen. of Cana<la, who had been a classmate; at ('olle^'e witli McOregore, the I.,on-
doiiderry pastor. The tirst American resistain'e to (Jen. CJaKe's troops w.as when
a detachment man lied from IJoston to this jdace (C; M.) and ciptured several
deserters from the Hritisli line rc;^iiiu'nts. The townsnieii rose, and pursued the.
troops, and forced them to release their prisoners, who liecamc residents of Lon-
donderry. Colonels Kccii. Mc»"leary, and (mcu'lt, and (ien. Stark (victor at Hen-
iiington), all of the Continental .\nny, were born liere. The Scot(;h-Irish colo-
nists introduced the potiito, the fout-whed, and the loom into New Kn;,duud. (i
M. bevoml Londonderrv Station the line enters the city of .Mam^hesier (see
Route" 2(0.

The Lawrence Dmnch (of the Eastern U. R.) runs from Lawrence S. E. to Salem.

The main line of the Boston and Maine Railroad follows (heyond Law-
rence) the r. hank of tlie Merriniac River for 10 M., to tlie city of Haver-
hill, passing N. Andover and Bradford.

Haverhill {Eafjlc House ; American Ilotise) is a handsome city, built on
hills which slope down to the Merriniac River, which is navigable to this
point (18 miles from the sea). In 1830, it had 3,912 inhabitants, and in
1870, 13,092. The principal business of the plac(! is the manufacture of
shoes, in which it is second oidy to Lynn. In 1869, t),000 persons were
here employed in tliis industry, and over 5,0(10,000 pairs of shoes were
made.

Haverhill has 17 churches, two or three of wliich are quite hanrlsonie.

280 Jtoute JiV.

EXETEIl.

1 ,

(

Tlio now City Hall (on Mniu St.) is nn iinposlrif? l)uiMinR, w»'ll ndapti'fl
for the civic! odicc's. Finni (tnldm Hill tlurt* is a fine viitw of tho river
and city, nnd of \ho unciciit villager of Hnwlford (fiuiied for its acadtniy
for girlH, now oc<npyiiiK extensivo Imildings nn a far-viewing liill. This
academy wa« foimdccl in 1M(».'}, and was a nursery of niissionarics' wivM, —
Harriet Newell, Mm. .Judson, and others). 1 M. N. K. of Haverhill, and
in its rapidly e.xtending snhnrhs, is the jtretty Lake Kt'noz<i, surroimded
by hills. A neat stone clnhhouse has been built on its banks by sonie
Haverhill gentlonien. This lake was named, and has been written of, liy
the ])Oct Whittier, who was bitrn at Haveihill in 1807.

A line Suhlivrs' Mainatu'tU, with a statue of a U. 8. soldier (lieroie si/.e)
on a high pedestal, all in white marble, haj been erecte<l in the city, 1*'.
of the City Hall.

CJeu. Muses Ilaztii, horn lit nnvcrlilll in 17;W, wns an oflflcer In the ennipnivns
oft'rown I'dint, I.niiishnrK. n'l'l (.imliec, (nid (•(imiiiainl(<l tlie -M t'anadiaii Ccii-
tiiiental lle^'. (" Congress's Own") frntu I77<> t" I7sl. llr tlitii iiidvciI fi> Vti-
nioiit, ami one of liis descemlants was (iin. \V. II. Ilaztn, wlio Iimik toiij^.'it tlio
('((Miaiiclies, tlieii (niiiiiiandeil a l>rij,'a(lo (l!S»il - '!) at tlic liatllrsof Sliilidi, ('orintli,
Htone llivi r, Cliickaman^'a, anil Mission !{i(l;^'('. In fSlH'rnian's nianli to the st n.
he eonunanded tlic 'Jd division of tli(^ l.Mli corps, wiili which he stormed Fort
McAllister, at Savannah, Dec. i:{, lS(it

Haverhill was settled in KiU, on the Indian domain of Pontneket, l)y a colony
led by Flcv. .lolin Ward, who came I'mm II ivcrhill in Kn^jland. The village chnnji
was scientifically fortified, hut the town lost many mi n diirini,' (iuccn Anne's War.
In 1(}(KS the Indians took Mrs. Ilannih Dnston, with her nn' " and her child ((i
days old). The latter they mindcred, and, after a lonj; marc' "on^^di the forests,
told the women that they were to Im foncd to rini the jxann' 'cn they reached

the vilhiKc That ni^'ht Mrs. Dnston, with the inu'sc^ and ..ig Kurdish hoy,

amse silently and killed 10 of the VI Indians. scal|ie(l them, and drojiped down
the river in a hark canoe to Haverhill. In 17<)S the villa^;** was attacked by *250
French and Indians, and 40 of its jteoi)lewere kilhnl an<l captnred.

The river-road to Newbnryport runs Ity the side of tli(^ .Merrimac, tlnonfrh a
pictnrc.s»iiie siu'cession of hill-towns. Daily sta;4es leave Haverhill for Newbiiry-
ixtrt, W. Ameshury, and Hampsteatl.

A railroad runs irom Haverhill to Newl)iu-yi»ort via Georgetown, in 10 M. 5
trains daily are run each way, in 40-00 nnnutcs.

After leaving Haverhill the main line runs N. into New Hampshire.
Stitions, Atldnsnn (stage to Hampstead), Plaidow (stages to Sandown
and Danville), Xeirton, and E, Kivf/.'^tmi (stage to Kingston). These are all
quitit farming towns in Rockingham County, N. H. Station, Exeter (good
restaurant in the station; S^iimw.scott House ; American House), a pretty
village of 3,4o7 inhabitants, at the head of navigation on Exeter River.
Exeter was founded by Rev. John Wheelwright, who had been banished
from Mass. for the heresy of Antimonianism. He bought this land in the
wilderness from the Indians, but when it was annexed to Essex Co.,
Mass., in 1642, he was obliged to go into more distant exile. Tlic In-
dians about Squaniscott Falls migrated to the vicinity of Troy (on the
Hudson) in 1672, but other and tiercer tribes menaced the village, and
nearly 40 of the people were killed and captured during the later Indian
wars. 38 men of Exeter died in the Continental Anny. In 1781, Hon.

EXhrrKii.

Jioufejs. 281

river
raiUrny
, Til is
ivoR, -
ill, and

ly HOtnn

11 of, by

oir si/.c)
city, li.

iiiiimi;-nft
lian i'"U-

1 t(i V«»-
mn.M tlio

, ('iii'.lltll,

(I till' St n,

>' a colony
^t' cliunh
iiu-'a War.
r chiM (0
ic fort'sta,
V rciuliPil
^lish boy,
pcd down
cd l.y 250

tliroMiili ;v
iNcwlHiry-

10 M. 5

[Tiipshirc.
ISandown
!se are all
Iter (good
a pretty
Icr Kiver.
I banished
|nd in tho
isex Co.,
Tlie lu-
l' (on the
llapo, and
■r Indian
■81, Hon.

John rhillipH fonndcul riiillipH A(;ad('iny, and endowed it with $ 134/K)0.
Henjtiniin AblK)t, LL. D., wum preiieptor of t\^ A^udeniy fnnu ITttS to
1838, and Dr. Oidion L. Houlo was preceptor from IhJJS to 1873.

AmoMX thn dlHtiriKuiRJifd nii'ii who linvc Immmi pit'pnrcd forrollivo Iwrn rtro.Tnhn
r'.ckt'iiii'^. the Jurist and pliilnln>{jHt ; Aliiil Aliliui ; .I.S. Hnckiiiiiinlvr. Uu' ir 'un-
l.ir diviiif ; .IiuiicM Walker, tlit; Uiiitariaii thtolo'^jan : Nathan I,nrd, I>. I)., IMphI-
dent of Durtiiioiith Colics*', lN'.'ii-(i;»; A. 11. Kvcrt-tt. M.. D., tlut HccuriipliHliod
di|iloiiiatirit(to li4-l)4liiin. Spain, an<l Ciiina): Natliau Mali', LL. |>., the .jouniaU.Ht ;
l,t'vtMvtt Haltonst.ill, l,L. I>. ; .). (J. ('..u.-HWril. M,. I)., of tlic Astor l.ilmiry ;
T. W. Dorr, the II. I. in.snr;,'<'nt (ioVfriinr ; .1. I'. CiisJdn^;, Prt'sidciit of iIaiii|Mli>n-
Hiducy Cullci^'n, Va., ls21-;t&; Tlicodon! l.vMian, tlif ptul.inthropiHt ; AiplitMis
Im'IiIi, Henator from .Mii liij,'an, l.s,7-,'..l; ( liirh's I'aiiif, of Vt ; .lolm P. llaif,
one lit" llm tlrst aniisl.ivcry .senators (lro«n N. II., IHJT-.VJ, and IS.V) -(1.S) ; thn
eminent hiHtiirians, Uii'ltard lilldretli, . tared Sparks, and (ieor^ce llincrol't ; Kd-
ward Kverett, the stJifesman and orator; It.iniel Welisfer; and Lewis ('a.ss, who
wa.s liorn at Kxeter in 17X-'. An otilier tiironnh the War of IM-J, <i<ivernor of
Miehipm, 1H1:{-;U, Secretary <tf War nnijer .Jackson, Minister to France, i,s;KI-
4"J, (.'ass camt! near bein^; ch'cted President ot the V. S. in IslH. rc"ci\ in;,' lit? eiec-
tornl votes to H);i nivcn I'nr (ien. Taylor, lie was U. S. Senator, l.s j.">-s, and
ls.")l-7, and from 1H'>7 to Dec, l,S<;<»,'was Secretary <d' State. Mis iiojicy wan
steadily prosl.ivery, but he favored the national Kovcrtniieiit dnrin„' the Keliellioii.
Il(; tlicd in 'nm, at Detroit, where .'■>4 years liefore he had been m.ide prisoner by
t!ie Uritish (witli the whole Army uf the Northwest) while u captrtiu in tho od
Ohio Ue^'iment.

The Academy bnildings are pleasantly sitnated on an elm-aliaded
campus, and are mostly of the oM-time archite<;ture. Tho Kobinson
t'eniale Seminary is also loc 'cd in Exetur, and is of modern foundation
and richly endowed.

Exeter is a fanning town, and in the village are the Ilockingham County
buildings. Th(! Scpiamscott Falls furnish a water-power which is utilized
by works for the manufacture of cotton and woollen cloths, and car-
riages ; also for large morocco tanneries, bra.ss and machine works, and
lumber-tnills.

Stages run from Exeter to Kensinjjton, Amesbnry, Salisbury, and N'esvburyport
(see lioute .'{7) ; to Kiti;,'ston, Sandown, Hrciitwood, Cliester, an<l Kn-niont, tri-
weekly ; and to Hampton IJeacli (see lioute :i7) semi-daily in siunmer and Sejt-
temlMir.

Stations, S. Newmarket, and Xeuymnrket Junction (restaurant), where
the Concord and Port.smouth track cros.ses the present route. New-
market ( I r<«A//i«7<on. House; Newmarket House) U a village containing
cotton and lumber-mills.

Tri-weekly staj^es run from Newmarket to Lee, Nottinj,'ham, Northwood,
Kpsom, Chicdiester, and Concord.

Station, Durham, the old Oyster River settlement, many of whose people
were killed in various Indian raids during King Philip's War. In 1(J'J5,
the village was carried by assault, though defended by 12 garrison -hou.sos,
and nearly 100 of its i)eople were killed or captured. The town is now
known foi its excellent hay-cro])S, which are obtained from the deep
argillaceous loam along the Oyster River. Over 1,000 tons are exported
annually. Stations, Madbury, and Dover (^1 merican House ; New Homp-

I
I' >

282 Route 38.

DOVER.

shire House), a 1)usy little manufacturing city at the lower falls of the
Cocheco River. Dover has over 9,000 inhabitants, 3 bunks, 11 churclies,
4 weekly papers, and extoTisive njanufactoriis. The Cocheco Mills em-
ploy 1,000 IkukIs and r^WO spindles, with a capital of .$1,300,000, and
make 11,000,000 yards of cotton cloths yearly. The Cocheco Print
Works, with 240 hands, print 1(1,000,000 yards yearly, and there arc
other branches of industry, the chief of which is the shoe business, in
which 12 fiTus are engaged. Pretty views are obtained from the hills
near the city, and the City Hall is a handsome structure.

Do'cr ia tlic oldest jilacc in tlie State, haviri^^ been settled in the spring' of
l(52.i, on the jioiiit of h'nd at the oonlliieiiee of the Newiciiawaniiiek and Bel-
lamy Jlivers (4 M. H. K. of the city). The pioneer colony was eoniimsed of E|'i.s-
copalians sent over by the Laeonia Comjiany, and they had nuieli trouble with
the Mass. Puritans. In 1041, Dover was annexed liy Mass., and in 1079 was re-
turned to N. II. The ])eoi)le had a man to " beate the drumnie on Lord's <lays to
give notice for the time of i>)eelinh'" unt=! lOO.O, wlien tliey built "a Terrett upon
the meitting house for to han^ the Bell.' In 10J7 they "chose by voet a ScoeJl-
ina,;ter," and in lO.Vi they built the meetinf^'-honse " 40 foote lonjie and 26 foote
wide " Major Waldeine setth'd on the i»resent site of the city, and built a strong
garris m-house. Here he was visited in KiTO, durinf; a time wIkmi jteace reignetl
in this region, by 400 Indiaris, two eoinj)anies of troojis being with him. He won
the conDdeni e of the Indians, and arranged a sliani-hght between tiieni and the
colonial soldiers. When tlieir guns were discharged the troops rushed in and dis-
armed them, after which 200 were sent to Boston as jirisoners, Heveral of these
were executed on Boston < '• mmon, and the remainder were sold into slavery in
the West Indu's. !.'{ years later a jiowerful Indian force seized Dover by night,
and destroyed 4 garrisons, killing 2S and cajituring 20 jiensons. Walderne, then
74 years old, and connnander of tiie forces of N. II., they ca]itured, and jilaced
in a chair on a table within his own hall, wTere they slowly slashed him to death.
The town was tin; ol)jeet of other disastrous atUicks during the Indian wars, but
was never abandoned by its intrc;)id people.

Triweekly stages run fmni Dover to Barrington and StralTord (Bow Lake
House), near Bow Lake (which covers 1,025 acres), and the Blue Hills.

Dover to Lake Wumepcsaukce.

The Dover and Winnepesaukee Railroad runs to Alton Bay (2SJ M). Stations,
Pickering's, and Gonic (with stages running to Barrington. St ra (lord, and Barn-
stead). At Rochester (see page 21:;) connections are nuide witii the i'nrtsniouth,
Great Falls, and (Jonway R. R., and with the Portland and Rochester R. R.
Stations, Place's, and Farniington (Elm //ck.sc), a shoe-manufacturing village near
the Blue Hills, or Frost Mts. From tlie loftiest of these hills, Mt. Mouadnock,
the White Mts., and the oceai: may be .seen on a dear day.

Henry Wilson was born at Fan-iingtoii in 1812. He was educated with money
earnol by his own labor, and settled at Nati 'k (Mass.) in 18;W, as a shoemaker.
Declaring himself an imcompromising foe of negro slavery, his abilities soon won
him honorable fame iii the State pnlitics, ami after rksing from one otlice to an-
other for l.j years, he was (diosen U. S. Senator in 185.5. in 1872 he was elected
Vice-President of the U. S. His most distinguished senatorial labors were in
connection with the antislavery niovenu-nt and the Kansas troubles, emancipa-
tion, recoi. struct ion, and the coniiuct of the war.

After leaving Farmington the bne i)asses three rural stations, and stops nt Al-
ton Bay, on Lake Winneiiesaukee. The Bay Vi"w House is located here (••:* 10.00
a week and upwards), and has a large livery stable attached, with pleasant drives
in the vicinity. (See jiage 218).

Stiiges run from Alton to the three villages (North, Centre, and Parade) of
Barnstead ; to i'ittslield, 15 M ; to Lake Village and Laei>nia, 18-20 .M. ; and to
Wolflwro, 10 M.

OLD ORCHARD BE.U'II.

RmUe 3S. 283

ills of the
chxirclies,
Mills em-
[),000, atifl
eco Print
there arc
Lisiness, in
I the hills

1 sprir'^ of
k and Htl-
ed of E|i.s-
roublt' Willi
079 was re-
rd'K flays ti>
'errett uiioii
)et a 8('<ii'li-
nd 26 footc
lilt a stniiif;
ace rt'i^'iii'd
11. He won
cm and tlm
I in and dis-
ral of tlieso
I) slavery in
^r liy nij^lit,
Ideine, then
I and jilaced

11 to death.

II wars, but

(Bow Lake
Us.

fStalions,
and Bain-
irtsnioiitli,
■ster R. R.
illaj;e near
onadiiock,

with money
shoemaker,
s soon won
)t!i('e to an-
,vas electeil
)rs were in
emamipa-

;tops nt Al-
ere (.>? 10.00
saiit drives

I'ar.'Hle) I'f
M. ; and to

The fine iron steamer, " Mt. Washington," leaves Alton Bay on arrival of the
trains, twice daily (in summer), t'oj tiie villages ou the lake. The distance to
Centre Harbor is 30 M. (sec Route 32).

The first station beyond Dover, on the main line, is RoUimfirrd, whence
a branch ' ack runs (in 3 M. )to the factories at Great Falls. Station,
Salmon Falls (Franklin IIou.se), the .seat of two cotton-mills at the falls
on the Newichawannick River. At Salmon Falls the Boston and Maine.
Extension R. R. begins, and runs to Portland in 40 M., having been
opened to travel in the spring of 1873. Tlic Boston and Maine cars for-
merly ran from S. Berwick Junction to Portland over the rails of
Route 37.

After passing N. Berwick, Wells is reached (in 14 M. from Salmon Falls).
The station is about 1 M. from, and is the nearest route to, Wells Beach
(Atlantic House; Island Ledge House), which is one of the best of the
Maine beaches. Stations, K<'nnehunk (about 2\ M. from the maritime
liamlet of iKennebunkjiort), Biddefard, and Snco (see Route 37.) Tlie
train cresses the Saco River between the busy manufacturing cities of
Biddeford and Saco, and lioars away for 4 M. to Old Orchard Beach
(*01d Orchard House, 400 guests, .$14- 2r).00 a week, - telegrajih, band,
and ball and reading rooms in the house ; * Ocean House, near the former,
and of great extent ; the Gorham and the Montreal llousos arc less ex-
pensive). The track runs between tin' great hotels (on the 1.) and the
beach, and the station is very coinmodiously situated. Stages ru'. from
the beach to the Saco station on Roi'te 37. This beach, which has been
called the finest in New Eiigloiid, extends from the Saco River to Pino
Point, at the mouth of Scarl)orongh River, a distance of 10 M., with a
breadth (at low water) of 300 ft. The sand is very hard and smooth, and
affords an adniiralile drive-way, *vhile from the absence of undertow, the
surf-bathing is perfectly safe. Near the hotels is a beautifrl forest-park
of 30 acres, with pleasant paths, arbors, and rustic adornments, Aboiit
2 M, distant, on Foxwell's Brook, is a pi(;tures(i'.ie waterfall, 60 ft. higli.
The beach derives its name from an ancient orchard of apple-trees, the
last of which died before the Revolution, Old Orchard is probably the
most fa.sliionable of tlie seaside resorts E. of Hami)ton and Rye, if not of
all E. of Swar:pscott.

5.J M. from Old Orchard is Srtirhnrov.rjh station, which is aboitt 3 ^L
from Scarborough Beach. The train now runs over Cape Elizabeth,
crosses Fore River on a long and costly bridge, and enters Portland,
G^ M. from Scarborough, and 115 M. from Boston,

. .-«-v ,,2r'

284 Route 30.

LAKE SEBAGO.

B 'i

%: ^

II: I

39. Portland to the White Mts.

Portland to \. Conway, GO M., by the Portland and Opdenshnrjj Railroad.
This line is n being ]nishod forward from N. Conway into tiie Crawford Notch.
The compan, is constructing a tlirough route from Portland to Montreal and
Ogdensbiirj;, for the transportation of pa.s.songers and of Western jtroduce. It
has already ])een built from Portland nearly to the Notcii, from W. Concord
through iSt. Johnsbury to Wolcott (in Vermont), and for some distance S. E.
from Sheldon. Considerably inf)re than half the track (in New England) has been
laid, and the ends of the various sections arc sluwly approaching each other, the
company being aided by liberal loans from the towns on the route.

The train leaves the union station in Porthmd under Braniliall Hill, and
passes out to Westbrook (in a town of about 7,000 inhabitant.s), with
several villages in which are manufactured cotton cloths, twine, wire,
and iron goods, with large quantities of paper. Immense quantities
of canned goods are prepared here, and the total manufactures of West-
brook amount to §3,500,000 yearly. Station, S. Windham, in a town
which was settled in 1737 and guarded by a Mass. fort. Tlie Oriental
Powder Works are located here, and the Mallison Falls on the Presump-
scott River are S. of the village. Stations, White Jiock, and Sebago
Lake, whence steamers leave for Harrison.

Lake Sebago

is 14 M. long by 11 M. wide, and has a depth, in some parts, of 400 ft.
6 towns are on its shores, and others are located on the comiecting lakes
to the N. Fine steamers le'ave Pavilion Bay (at Lake Sebago station) and
soon pass (on the r.) Indian Island, and Frye's Island, with 1,000 acres of
forest. When the broader part of the lake is gained, "to the N. E.,
Rattlesnake Mt. is seen ; and in the same direction, near the lake, is the
boyhood home of Nathaniel Hawthonie. We also pass on our r. the 14
Dingley Islands. The scenery on the W. is wilder and more rugged.
Saddleback Mt., in Baldwin, is plainly visible, from which the eye roams
N. E., beyond the Great Bay, over the Sebago hills and farms and
forests. Still farther N. is Peaked Mt., beyond which the view ext(3U(U
N. to Mt. Kiarsarge (Pequawket), so blue and cold in the hazy distance,
while the White Hills may be distinctly seen if the day is tolerably clear."
The passage across Sebago ("a stretch of water") occupies one hour, after
which the steajner enters the rapid and devious Songo River. " It is but
2i M., as the crow tlies, to the head of the river, and yet we must sail 6 M.
and make 27 turns." Picturesque contrasts of farm and forest, granite
ledge and intervale, make the voyage on these narrow waters pleasant and
novel. 5 M. from Sebago the steamer enters u iock at the conHuence of
Crooked or Pequawket River, wliich rises about 35 M. N. in the town of
Albany. After rising several feet in the lock, the steamer passes N. int.)
tlie Bay of Naples, near the head of which is Naples {Elm House), a small

Railroarl.
\d Notch,
treal and
iduro. It
. Conoord
nee S. E.
) has been
other, the

Hill, and
its), with
lie, wire,
quantities
of West-
1 a town
Oriental
Presuinp-
1(1 Sebago

|of 400 ft.
ing lakes
ion) and
acres of
le N. E.,
«, is the
the 14
mgged.
:ye roams
rms and
ext(Mi(U
distance,
ly clear."
our, after
It is hut
sail 6 M.
,, granite
,sant and
lience of
town of
is. into
, a small

FRYEBURG.

Route 39. 285

village in a farming town. Before stojiping at this jdace, the steamer
passes through a drawbridge, and, after leavhig it, it steams out on- Long
Lake. Tliis is a river-like expanse of water 12-14 M. long and less than
2 IM. wide. 9 M, from Naples the boat stops at Bridgton, whence a stage
runs 1 M. W. to Bridgton Centre {Brkbjton Iloiu'ie ; Cumberland House).
This is an important manufacturing village, with a weekly i)ai»er, a
savings-bank, and three churches, in a town originally called Pondicherry,
from the abundance of small ponds and wild cherries found there. This
village has become somewhat of a summer resort in a (|uiet way, from its
virinity to the lake and to picturesque hill-.scenery. The next stopping-
])lace on the lake is N. Bridgton {Lake House), a small village on the
stage line from Fryeburg to S. Paris. N. of this place is Waterford,
{Bear Mt. House ; Forest House), a thinly settled town with 12 ponds and
much picturesque .scenery. The steamer now crosses the lake to Harrison
(Eiui House), a small hamlet at the end of the route. Daily stages run
from Harrison to S. Paris on the Grand Tnuik Railway (14 M. N. E. ;
fare ,$1.00).

After leaving the Lake Sebago Station, the train passes the stations,
Jlichville and Steep Foils, in the town of Standish, which was granted to
and settled by veterans of the Louisburg campaigns, and named after the
Pilgrim ca]»tain. Beyond Steep Falls, the line follows the valley of the
Saco, and passes through the town of Baldwin (stations, Baldmn and W.
lialdu'in). The Great Falls of the Saco are seen from the train beyond
W. Baldwin, near which the Ossipee River meets the Saco. The river
falls 72 ft. in several successive- pitches. The train now enters the town
of Hiram, on narrow intervales along the Saco, and stops at Hiram Br'dge
{Mt. Cutler House). As the train crosses the old pine-plai)is of Hiram
and enters BrownfieM, occasional glimpses are caught of Mt. Pleasant, a
lew miles N. in Denmark. This is a lofty, isolated mountain, 8-10 RL
around at the base, with a public house on its summit, from which the
view is said to be line, and by some it is held to be etpial to that from
INIt. Washington. The principal view is to the N. W. along the cluster-
ing peaks of the White Mtc. Station, BrownfieM {Brownjield House),
whose farm-houses admit many summer visitors, Burnt ! Meadow and
Frost Mts. being the principal objects of interest. Stages leave daily for
Denmark, and for Bridgton, on Lake Sebago.

The plains along the river grow wider and more productive, as the
train passes on to Fryeburg {Oxford House), a pretty village "on a
broad, level plain, slightly elevated above the intervales of the Saco,
which encloses it in one of its huge folds. " Many summer visitors rest
at the comfortable old hotel, while others are quartere<l in the boarding-

28G Route 39.

FRYEBUllG.

houses wliich are found in the village. The inten'ales of Fryeburg are
iioted'for their richness and beauty, and contain nearly 10,000 acres which
are annually overflowed and fertilized by the Saco. On these meadows is
the winter home of large droves of cattle wlio graze on the mountains
during the sunimer. There are several thousand acres of forest in the
town and it is claimed that Fryebui-g has more standing timber now than
it had 40 years ago. The princijial points for excursions are Stark's Hill
(ijOOft. high), Jockey Cai>, and Pine Hill, eminences near the village, which
command panoramic views of tlie distant White ]\Its. and of Cnocorua.
]Mt. Pleasant is 9 M. to the E., and is often visited for the sake of its
noble over-view, and Lovewell's Pond is near the village (by the Pine
Street road).

f'ajit. John Lovcwell, the son f)f an ensign in Cromwell's Puritan army, was an ahle
]iartisan olliccrofthe colonics. In A]iril, 17'2o, he lod -Hi miMi from the Mass. fron-
tier towns l>y a long and anluous march into the iieart of the Peiiuawket country.
After marcliing over 100 M., tliey reached Saco (now Lovewell's) Pond with .■i4
men, and here they cncamiied fen- 'MS horn's, near the chief village of the Indians.
On Saturday, Jlay G, while they were assemt>led around the chajilain on the
hoach, and ere the niovning devotions had been liuished, a gun was lieard and an
Indian was seen watching tlieni. They left their packs near the jtond, am' ad-
vanced toward the intervales, but met an Indian in the forest who shot and mor-
tally wounded Lovewell, though his own death followed (|ni(Uly. Meantime the
Sachem Paugus and 8U warriors had found and counted tlie packs and laid an
ambuscade near them, which completely entraii]>ed the Americans on their
return. The magnanimous Paugus ordered his men to tire over the heads of the
invaders, and then to oind them with rojtes. With horrid yells the Indians leaped
forth and asked Lovewell if he would have (piarter. " Only at the nnizzles of
your guns ! " shouted the brave captain, and led his men against the luiiirepared
enemy. They drove the Indians some rods, but were rejiulsed by a lieree. counter-
charge, in which f,ovewell and 8 (»f his men were killed. Then the Americaus
retreated slowly, fighting inch by inch, to a jiosition with the ]>ond on their lear,
Battle Creek on the r., and Rocky Point on the 1. This .sheltered iiosition they
maintained for eight hours against continual assaults, and at sundown the In-
dians retreated, leaving '.V^ killed and wounded, including Paugus, who fell late in
the contest. Throughout the hmg day the yells of the Indians, the cheers of the
Americans, and the jiattering of musketry resounded through the forest, Avliile
Chaplain Frye, mortidly wounded while lighting among the foremost, wa;; often
heard praying for victory. In the mooidit midnight hour the imnincials re-
treated, leaving 15 of their number dead and dying on the Held, while 10 of the
19 others were wounded. After sulferiTig terribly on the retreat, the little band
i-eached the settlements. The battle at Peijuawket filled the northern triVws with
fear, and caused some of them to move to Canada. A long and mournful ballad
of 30 stanzas (like the oid Scottish ballad of Chevy Chase) commeiuorates this
forest-fight.

•• What time the noble Lovewell came
With tit'tv men from Dunstable,
The crnel Ift'cniot tribe to tame
With arms uiid bloodshed terrible.

" Ah! many a wife shall rend her hair, r-

And inany a cliild cry * Woe is niel *
When messengers the news shall bear
Of liOvewells dear-boiigiit victory.

" With footsteps low shall travellers po

Where Lovewell's I'ond sliines clear and bright.
Anil mark the place where those are laid
Who fell In Lovewells bloody tight."

Fryebm:g was granted to, settled by, and named for, Gen. Joseph Frye, of An-

PORTLAND TO QUEBEC AND MONTREAL. Rnute 40. 287

lurg are
cs which
Hclows is
oiintains
,t in the
low than
rk's Hill
[je, which
'nocorua.
ikc of its
the Pine

svas an able
Muss, fron-
!t country.
1(1 with M
If Indians,
lin on tlie
lid and an
id, an(' <id-
t and nior-
iuitime the
lid laid an
s on their
cads of the
lians leapcil
Innizzles of
iuiirci>ar<'»I
•(! coiinter-
Anieiicuiis
their rear,
isition they
\vn the In-
fcll late in
iccrs of the
ri'st, while
\va:; often
incials re-
e, 10 of the
[little band
triVws with
nful ballad
urates tUi3

rye, of An-

dover, Mas3., a veteran ofHcer of the French wars. It wa.^ for niany year.s the
only town near tlie White Mfs., and ^'n;w r,i]iidly, ha\ in;,' a weekly in;irkct-<hiy
wliii'h tilled its streets with busy life. An academy was early cstablislied liere
(endowed by .Mass.). and was tan^'lit in ISo-j by Daniel Welister. (iovernor Knodi
Lincoln lived licrc from isil to isr.>, and wrote a Inn;^' jioem, cntitleri "The Vil-
]a,\'c," whi(di was " descrijitivc of the beautiful scenery of the fairest town on the
stream of the Saco." A fe* ' l^equawket Indians lin;,'crerl in this locality after the
dispersal of the tribe, and did p)o(l service in the exiteditiou of Uogerss liaugera
against St. Francis, and in the Continental Army.

Stages run from Ftyeburj? to Paris, by way of Lovell. Sweden. Waterforil, and
Norway (30 M.) ; also by Hridgton, IIarrisr)n. and Norway (;i"J M.). These towiiM
are all in the Petinawkct country, and Lovell ('2 snuill inns) has the beautiful
Kezer Pond, which is 1 M. wide and 8 M. loni;'.

After the train leaves Fryubur^', the mountain views in front and to the
1, are fine. The line enters New Ilainiisliire, iuid passe.s by Conway
Centre to N. Conway (see page 223) and Upper Bartlett.

40. Portland to Quebec and Montreal.

Via the Grand Trunk Railway, which is owned and operated by an An!;,do-Cana-
dian corporation. This line is p'-incipally used for the transportation of freight,
but it run3 one through passenger train daily. Portland to (iuiham, '.'1 M., in A\ -
6 hours ; to Quebec, 317 M.,iull)-:iO hours; to Montreal, -I'dl M., in 17A-19
hours.

The train leaves the spacious terminal statioti in Portland, near the Vic-
toria Docks, and, passing around Muiijoy's Hill, cro.sses the mouth of
Back Cove. Thence it runs through the towns of Falmouth and Cumber-
land, near Casco Bay, and crosses the Maine Central Railway at Yar-
mouth Junction.

Station, N. Yarmouth, .settled on the Indian domain of We.scustogo
about 1640, and deserted inlG75-8, and TOSS -171 3, on account of the
Indian wars. On returning in 1713, the settlers found a young forest cov-
ering their oM fields and roa<ls. Between 1725 and 17')!) many of the
colonists were killed or captured by the Indians. During tlie first half of
the present century, the town grew and prospere<l, but during the past 20
years it has lost 10 per cent of its population. Stages run hence to Dur-
ham, on the Androscoggin.

Stations, Pownal and New fwhnicestcr, the latter being a pretty and
prosperous village whicii was founded by men of Gloucester, Mass., about
1735. At Danville Junction, the Lewiston Division of the Maine Central
Railway divtirges N. E., and nms to Lewiston, Farmington, Waterville,
and Bangor (see Route 46.)

Station, Mechanic Falla, near a small factory village, from which tri-
weekly stages run to Sumner (18 M. ; fare, 75 c).

The Portland and Oxfonl Central Railway nnis X. from Mechanic Falls, passing
tlirough the towns of Oxford, Hebron, Rnektield, Hartford, and Canton (three
inns.). These towns were all settled in the latter years of the 18th century, and
liie last four ncained have been losing in population for 20 years. Canton was tlie

288 Route 40.

BETIIKL.

home or tlie Rockonioka Indians (wlio wore extf rmiiiated hy the small-pox in
l.')o7\ and was settled in 17'.'- under tlie nanu- of l'lii|ij)s-Canada. It is prettily
situated near the Amlruscn^'j^iu Jliver, and has so ue ricli intervale lands.

f\ 's

The next station on tlie miin line is Oxford (LalcR House), from which
tri-weekly stages run to K. OlisOcM, Cusco, and Naples.

Station, .S. Vdrvi (Andrews House), a busy vilhvge, with manufactures
antl a hirge country trade. Daily stuj^'cs run lience to Fryeburg, 33 ]\I. S.
W. (fare. .$2.00), by way of Norway, Harrison, and liridgton; also byway
of Wuterfor<l. Stages run from every train to Paris Hill {Ilnhhard
House; Union Jfoust), 3 IM. N. E. This is a village on a hill 831 ft.
liigli, where are located the Oxford County buildings. To the E. is Mt.
Mica, where beautiful s])eeiiiiens of touinialine are ibund, together with 15
other minerals. It is called " the most interesting locality of rare min-
erals in the State of Maine." Streaked 'Mt. is near by, and is nearly
1,800 ft. high. Stations, W. P<iris and Jtri/anVs A/zu^ (small inn), from
whidi tri-weekly stages run to Milton Plantation, Humfonl, and Andover
(21 M. N. ; fare, $l.oO); also to Kiunford, Mexico, Dixlield, and N. Jay
(on the '^-.idroscoggin Railroad). Another line runs from Mexico through
Roxbury to Bj-ron. Runiford has some high hills, — White Cap, Glas.s-
Face, and others, wliich yield thousands of bushels of blueberries annually.
The Rumford Falls have been calleil " the grandest in New England,"
and have suffered but little from " iiui»rovement." The descent of the
Androscoggin River is over 150 ft. in three or four i)lunges over ragged
graiute ledges. The third fall has a nearly perpen<licular descent of 70-
80 ft., and its roaring is heard at a great distance. There are three taverns
in Rumford.

At Bryant's Pond station the track is 700 ft. above the sea, and the
Pond itself is a pretty highland lake, from which flows the Little Andros-
coggin River. Station, Bethel (* Chandler House, accommodating 100
guests ; Chapman House), a beautiful village in a town of about 2,200
inhabitants. The Ijroad intervales of the Androscr gin are outspread here
in all their fertility and fairness, while noble vie^^ . of the White Mts. in
the W. are obtained from adjacent hills. There are also mineral springs
(small hotel) in the town, and numerous summer boarding-houses, where
comfort, (piiet, and abundant country fare are given for the moderate
price of $G- 10.00 a week.

Bethel has often been likeneil to N. Conway on account of its mountain-
views and ricli intervales, and many city people spend their summers
here to enjoy the air, the scenery, and the fine fishing in the vicinity. 12
^I. S. of Bethel are the Albany Basins, where the Pequawket River has
worn a wonderful series of reservoirs in the talcose rock, the largest of
which is 70 ft. deep and 40 ft. in diameter. 18 M. N. E. of Bethel, by
good roads and through pleasant river-scenery, are the Rumfonl Falls.

OILELVD.

Route 40. 289

mall -pox In
is prettily
da.

Tom whicli

tinnfacturcs
•g, 33 M. S.
also by wny
1 (JIuhhard
hiU 831 ft.
he E. is Mt^
'tht'i-witb 15
of rare min-
,nd is nearly
ill inn), from
and Andover
I, and N. Jay
L'xico through
te Cap, Glass-
rric's annually,
e-w England,"
descent of the
!S over ragged
lescent of 70 -
c three taverns

le sea, and the
Little Andros-
mnodating 100
ol- about 2,200
outspread here
White Mts. in
tiuneral springs
;-houses, where
the moderate

3f its mountain-
their summers
Ihe vicinity. 12
Ivket River has
I, the largest of
?,, of Bethel, by
limfonl Falls.

Bethel to Luke dnbivjoij.

Seini-weckiy stHge to Upton, at the foot of the lake, in 20 M. : fare, $2.50. The
country travorscci is jiiit.stly in a wild stiitcand tliiiilv p()piiiatt'<i. hut affonls some
striking river and mountain scenery. Tlu' Audruscug^iu is fcdlowcd for 6 M. to
5. Xeirry (small inn), atfor vvhicli tiie road lies near tlu- Bear River, and M. be-
yond S. Newry, Jlartletfn I'uplur Tavfm i.s i)a.ssed. The Screw Auger Fall.s are
about ;i M. from tlii.s iM)int, and near ranning's .Mills. ISeycnd the Tavern the
lugh hills of Grafton (chief among whi(di arc Sjiccklcd and SiichHcback Mt-i.) ap-
Iiear to close across the road. Hut ♦lie Hear Iliver is closely follnweil into Graf>
ton Notch, a lonely pa.ss among the frowning hills. Tiie reniarkalde water-
gorge known a.s Moosi: ('liiis)ii is situated in tliis uoti'li. The small Cambridge
Hiver is now ajiproai lied, and in its valley the road j)asses on to the lake. The
township of Ujiton (formerly l^etter IJ. Plantation, and ma<le a town in 18G0) ia
now entered, and the stage stojis at tlie LdLc. House, on the shore of L'mbagog.
Tlierc are two other inns in this town, whiidi has ISO inhabitants. A steamer
leaves the Lake H<Mise on tlie arrival of the stag)!, and runs to Krrul Iiam (in N.
II.), a rude hinilM-rmcirs village, with two inns. DLvvillc Xotidi is 10 M. N. W.
of Errol, and the handsome village of Colebrook is '20 M. from Krro|(bythe Notch
road). From Hidhel to L'oielirook (see I'age '24'.i), the distance is about GO M. (the
e.M'ursion is not ncommeiuh'd for lailies).

The steamer ascends the .Magalloway Itiver from Krrol PTim to Diirfee's Tiand-
ing (12 M.), whence adveiitiiious parties of gentlemen have ascended to Tarnia-
ehene Lake and Canicl's liump.Mt., which overlooks a wide and desolate wilder-
ness (.see Harper's Magazine, Vol. XX.).

Bethel was settled in 1773, under the name of Sudbury-Canada, and here, in
1781, occurred the last Indian depredation in Maine, when a small war-party
from St. Francis ] plundered tlie outlying liou.ses, killed three men, and led threa
prisoners to Canada.

Tlie next station beyond Bethel is Gilead, a small village on the fertile
Androscoggin meadows, between two ranges of shaggy mountains. It
was named for a great balm-of-Gilead tree within its borders, and in the
early years Avas almost rendered untenable by bold raids of bears with
which the hills were infested. On the night of the VVllley slide in the
White Mt. Notch (1S2C), immense avalanches fell from the mountains of
Gilead, especially frotn Picked Hill. " The darkness was .so inten.se as
almost to be felt. The vivid lightnings and long streams of tire covering
the sides of the mountains caused by the concu.ssiou of the rocks, only
served to make the darkness more visilile. The valley rocked as though
an earthquake were shaking the earth."

Beyond Bethel the railway passes the village of W. Bethel and runs
through the glens of Gilead to Shelburne (Winthrop House). From this
point the mountain-views on the S. W. are fine, and the train nins down
on the r. baidc of the Androscoggin, with Mt. Moriah on the 1. and Mt.
Hayes on the r., to Gorham (see page 227). Station, Be. din Fulls (.small
hotel), near the famous Falls on the river, and next to Berlin is Milun,
" on the plains of Lumber-dy." The \'\^iw down the rivei from Milan is
very beautiful, including the vast fomis of Mts. Washington, Adams, and
Madison. E. of Milan is the town of Success, with 5 inhabitants, and
N. of Stark, through which the train passes beyoiul Milan, is the town
13 s

290 Route 40.

ST. HYACINTHE.

of Oclell, witli al)Out 2r),00() acres and 1 inliabitant. Tho line now follows
the Ujjper A'ninonoosuc Kivcr, to Xorthumfjerlaml, and thence passes up
the 1. bank of tli.> Connect i('ut llivcr to Stratford and X. ^'^trat/ord, with
the Percy Peaks on tlic r. (see ]ta,c;e 2\'i). The line now crosses the river
and runs through ];'» M. of uninlial)ited forest in Vermont, to Island Pond
{* Island Pond Hotel : American; (Ireen Mt.); a village erected by
the railway, which has spacious buiMings lu-re; this point being 149
M. from Portland and 148 M. from Montreal. The 1>order custom-house i.<?
located here, and near the village and track is a pretty lake, 2 M, long
and \ M. wide, surrounded by a hard, smooth })each of white quartz
.sand, with waters abounding in fish. About 12 M. beyond Island Pond,
the train passes Norton Pond, and enters the Dominion of Canada. In
the course of the next 33 M. the train i)a.sses 3 stations, and reaches
Lennoxvillc, where the Connecticut and Passumpsic Rivers R. R,
(Route 24) comes in from the S. 28 M. beyond Leniioxville is Biohmond
(on the St. Francis River), the seat of St, Francis College.

The Quebec Branch nins 76 M. N. E. from Richmond to Quebec.
Station, Danville, a pretty rural village, with beautiful views from Clare-
mont Hill and the Pinnacle (which is 3 M. from Danville, and rises 1,000
ft. from the phun). Kingsey Falls are 7 IM. distant, and are often visited.
Station, Arthahaska, whence a bruncii load runs 35 M. N. W. down the
Becancour valley to Three Rivers, on the St. Lawrence. 10 M. E. of
Arthabaska is Itouillard Ml., whence a luoad forest-view is gained, ex-
tending from the St. Lawrence 40 M. N. W. to the bright Lakes Aylmer
and St. Francis, in the distant S. E. The train now passes on through a
thinly populated coiuitry, and crosses the Chaudiere River about 8 M.
from Quebec (2-3 M, from the Falls), and near the point where the Riviere
du Loup Division (125 M, long) of th Grand Trunk Railway diverges to
the N.E. The train stops at Point Levi, opposite Quebec, and pas-
.sengers are carried across the St. Lawrence in ferry-boats.

Quebec, see Route 56.

From Richmond to Montreal the distance is 76 M. (almost due W. ).
After passing the co])per-mining town of Acton, the train reaches St.
Hyacinthc, 35 M. from Montreal. This is a curious old Franco-Cana-
ilian city, pleasantly situated on the plains on both sides of the Yamaska
River. The Cathedral is a fine building, and the college i.s one of the
best in America. " The course of studies here is said to be only eipialled
by the best Jesuit colleges in France." Tlie * college building is an im-
posing structure of cut stone, 700 ft. long, and surmounted by a cui)ola.
The fertile district between St. ilyacinthe and Montreal is inhabited by
the descendants of the old French inuuigrants, p; serving their language,
customs, and religion intact. The railway stations on this tract are
Soixante, St. Hilaire, St. Bruno, St. Hubert, and St. Lambert. The

FARMINGTON.

Rovte 41. 291

ow follows
! passes up
tfonl, with
iS the rivor
land Pond
erected by
, being 149
nm-honse is
, 2 M. long
hite quartz
sland Pond,
Divnada. I"
and -caches
ivers R. R"
s Biclimond

to Quebec.
s from Clare-
id rises 1,000
often visited.
W. down the
10 M. E. of
IS gained, ex-
,akes Aylmer
on through a
about 8 M.
2re the Riviere
ly diverges to
)ec, and pas-

nost due W.).
in reaches St.
Franco-Cana-

the Yamaska
is one of the

only ec^ualled
ding is an im-

by a cupola.

inhabited by
Iheii- language,
Ithis tract are

.anibert. The

singular nits, of Relcril, Yamaska, and Rtiu^r^'inont are jiasscd, and at
St. Lambert the train crosses the St. Lawrence on the * Victoria Bridge.
Montreal, see Route .14.

41. Portland to Farmington and the Western Maine Forest

Portland to Farmington, 93 M., in 5 hours ; to the Uangcley Lakes, VVi M.

The train loaves the Portland and Kennebec station and runs over Route
47 to Brunswick, where it ])asses on to the rails of the Androscoggin
Division of Iho ALiine Central Railway. Stations, LUhi)n Falls (a manu-
facturing village on the falls of the Androscoggin), Lishnn, Vruwleifti
(whence a branch railroad diverges to Lewiston) Sahlmtisville, and Lrcih
Junction. At this point the present route is crossed by Route 4»J, and
close connections are made, so that passengers who prefer that route may
avail themselves of it. For the next 12 M. tlui line runs throtigh thii
town of Leeds, stopping at the stations, Curtia Corner, Leeds Centre, and
N. Leeds.

Gen. O. O. Howard was born at Ltcds in IS.iO. lift graduated at West Point,
and was an instructor there until the outhre.ik ofthi! Kehelljoii in 18(51. I^eadiug
the ;id Maine Volunteer infantry into the held, he won distinction and a general's
ooniniission at Hull Hun, and lost his right arm at the hattle of Fair Oaks. Ho
c'onunanded the lUh corps of the Army of the I'otomao at Fredericksburg.
Chancellorsville, and Gettysburg, and then fought in the Georgia campaigns. Hh
(commanded the right wing of Sherman'.s army in the ni:uih to the sea, and
since the war has been engaged in the work of bettering the condition of the
negroes and Indians.

The next three stations (Strickland's Ferry, E. Livennore, and Liver-
more Fulls) are in the long town of E. Livermo.e, where tlie train ap-
proaches the Androscoggin River. Livermoi'c F'alls is devoted to nuinu-
factures. This district was called Rockomeka, or "great corn land," by
the Indians, and is distinguished for its line breeds of cattle.

.Inst across the river is the town of Livennore, the birthplact! of tlie brothers,—
Israel Washburne, Congressman, ISal-Gl, and Gov. of Maine, ISfil-H; F. B.
Washburne, Congressman from Illinois, l.S.');i -GO, and Minister to France, 1808-73,
an able statesman and skilful dploniatist ; and ('. 0. Washburne, (Congressman
from Wisconsin, 18aO-G2and 1S(;7-71, ;i successful general in the campaigns in the
lower Mississippi valley, and cho.scn Gov. of Wi.seonsin in LS71.

Stations, Jay Brid</e and X. Jai/ (stages to Dixtield and Bryant's
Pond, on Route 40, in 37 M. ), in the farming town of Jay, and Wiltnn, a
manufacturing village, from which stages run W. 13 M. to Weld (Mon-
days and Fridays), a village (small inn) on the shore of a lake, with lofty
mts. in the vicinity. Bear Mt. is on the S., Ben Novis on the W., Metal-
lic Mt. on the N., and Bald and Blue Mts. on the E., the latter being
nearly 4,000 ft. above the sea, and 2,360 ft. above the village. Stages
also run to Chesterville, on the E.

Beyond E. Wilton, the train crosses the Sandy River and its intervales
on a broad, curving trestle, and stops at Farmington {Stoddard House ;

♦I I

'292 Hontr/fl. THE RANOELEY hAKEH.

f ►

M "

I ;

;i ;

Foreat House ; Elm House). Tlie town lias !},2r)2 iiiliahitants, with 2
hanks, a weekly paper, and 5 clmrclies. This bright village is situuteil
on the favorite grain-lands of the old C'anihas Indians, and has also a
lucrative huiilx-r-trade. The Western State Normal School is located
here; also the Little lllue School, the Willows (girls' S(;h()ol), ami the
Farniington dirls' Scliool, so that this remote viihige on the eilge of the
Forest has somewh'itof an academic air. The Franklin County buildings
are also located here.

Stages run fnnii ranniii;4ton to Temple ; to Strong. Avon, and Pliilliiis ; to
Htrontr, Frcenirin, mikI S.ilfni ; to New Viiiryard, New Porfl.iiid, and Kinj^Helil ; to
hulustry and .Starks ; to New Sliamn, Knnie, IJcl^raile, and Au^'iista,

New Porllaml and Kinuliidd (Franklin House) are jiiclnn'scpu' but tldnly iiopu-
latcd nit. towns. Near Kinulicld on tin- W. is tlic .Mt. Alnaliani Uan;,'e, D.liST It.
Id^di. Tlie natural and civil histories of the Maine Imrder towns an* monoto-
nously alike. They were nmstly seltleil hetween \Ttt> and 18(i(>, exhibited a slow
(_'rowtli until ls(io, and then be;,'an to retni;j;rade. The los.se.s occasioned by the
war, the ^rcat einij,'ration westward, and the sterility of the New En).;laiid race
!ire the reasons f4^^'"t'rally assi;;ned fortius decadence, while the severity of the
elinate, the destruction ol' the forests, antl the exhaustion of the soil, are self-
cvi<tent natural causes of decline. Franklin (.'oimty, through which the jiresi-nt
route is laid, had nearly •J.DiiO more iidiabitants in 1S(>() than in ISTD, and in that
s.'iinc decade the State lost 7,S7"J in ]>o]iulation. This has been Maine's loss, but
the I'nion's ^rain, and natives of this State maybe found in posts of trust and
iionor In nearly every la.'t,^e American eomnainity.

Fariiiinfjton to the RanfjeUy Lakes.

The stage leaves on arrival of the IJoston train, and follows up the
Sandy River valley with IMt. Blue on tin; 1., to Strong {Fanner s Ho-
tel), whence another stage runs to Freeman and Salem. Mt. Blue is
rounded on the 1., and the stage j>a.sses through a thinly populated country
to P/iillips (Barden House). The village is situated in the valley, within
an easy distance of Mt. Blue, and near some fine trout-streams. It is
18-20 :\l. from Farnington, and 20-22 M. from the lake. Travellers
usually spend the night here, and take stage in th • morning, passing
through the town of Madrid (Madrid House). The Saddleback Mt.,
■whose chief ])eak is nearly 4,000 ft. high, is seen on the r. , and the stage
reaches the Indian Rock House after passing through a dreary wilderness
Iteyond. This forest tavern is on a favorite old Indian camp-ground, and
is near the curio\isly bent and contorted strata of Indian Rock. Lake
Oiiuossoc, or Rangeley, is 7 M. long, and its extreme width is 2 M. It
is 1,511 ft. above the sea, and is surrounded by hills, prominent among
which is Saddleback Mt., on the E. Moosetocmaguntic Lake is reached
by boat, or by a rude forest-road from Indian Rock, and is 10 ]M. long by
2-4 M. wide. A chain of large lakes extends from Rangeley to Umba-
gog, embracing 80 square miles of water surface, and abounding with
blue-back trout and other li.sh. '^rravelliiig in this remote wilderness is
very difficult, and good gxiides should be obtained.

About 30 M. directly N. W. of Indian Roek, on a line which crosses the Ken-

V i

rOItTLAND TO TMK ni»PER KKNNKBEr

lii'ule 42.

293

Tirl«»go nud Cnpsi'j.tir (fnm(tu.s tioiit-Htn'arns), iH tliP Iron poHt which niark.s tlin
intrrsi'ctinj; ("(ir'.crs <»f Mtitir. New M.uni'Hliirc, and Caiui'la. A line of iiiii jmsU
rUMHthiMn-n N. W. for over 80 M. to tlif Roiimlary nramli nftlM-St. Francis llivi-r,
marking the bounds hftwpcn thifl luirt of '.i.» U! H. and Canada, as c<stablislic«l in
1S42.

42. Portland to the Upper Kennebec.

By rlthnr of tlie Routes 4(5 or 47 to Watrrville, nml tlioncc by a branch railroad
in 16 M. to Skowlic;,'an. Tliis lino passes alnnj: tlif; r. bank of the Kennebec,
with tlie stations, Fairlield, ^ionierset Mills, ;knd i'i-.hnM I'errv, all in the town i>f
Fairlield.

The now Honiersct Railroad is now In oporation from W. Watorvillo (Route IG)
to Norridgewock, a distiince of 10 M., and is being pushed on to 8olon.

Skowhegan {Tumfr ILmsc : the extensive Skowheg.-in Hotel w.as
bnnit in 1872) is a pleasant village in a prosperous town of al»out l/KV)
inhabitants. It has 15 banks, a weekly paj)er, and 5 eliurches, aii«l
derives its inii)ortance, from numerous nianufaetories sil.;ated on a largo
water-power. The Kennebec here falls 28 ft. perpendicularly over ragged
ledges, with a picturescpie island ending at the crest of the fall. Tiio
falls are best vi(!wed from the point near the site of the Skowhegan Ho-
tel, or from the carriage-bridge l)elow. From the lattir ))oiut there is a
pleasant view down the river, the most prominent olijcct being the grace-
ful railway-bridge, while the stream near the Turner House is iiarrowe(l
between high, rocky banks like a western cailon. It is said that the envi-
rons of Skowhegan furnish fine fishing in the line of trout and pi(;kerel,
while the rural scenery is bright and pleasing, llu; favorite drive is to
Norridgewock (5 M.) by a tine river-road, returning liy a river- road on the
opposite bank, and atronling beautiful views of the l)lue Kennebec.

St;iges nui from Skowhegan to Mnoseliead Lake, 50 M. (see Route 4.'}) ; to Har-
mony, 20 M. ; and to the remote forest-plantations of Flag-staff, Oead River, and
the Forks.

Norridgewock (two inns) is a beautiful rural town, situated on both
si<les of the Kennel»ec, whicli separates its two villages. At the N. vil-
lage, 5 M. from Skowhegan, are the old Somerset County buildings, with
a broad river-side street on which stanrl some rare and immense old trees.
The river is here crossed by a carriage-bridgo and a line railway-bridge.
.0-6 M. above the village, and near the conlluence of the Kennebec and
the Sandy Rivers, is Old Point.

At Old Point was the chief town of the Canibas Indians, a powerful tribe of
the Abunaqui nation. As early as lUlO French missionaries from Quebec settle'',
here, and in lGit5 Sebastian Rale, a French .Jesuit, came from Canad;i and be-
came the spiritual and (practically) iiolitical chief of the tnl)e. Rile was a
man of high culture, aiid had been (ireek professor in the College of Xisnies (in
S. France). He prejiared a eomi>leto dictioiniry (now at Harvard University) of
the Abenaqui language, which had diminutives ainl augmentatives like tho
Italian, and was " a powerful and flexible language, — the Gret^k of America."
"While the colonial goveriunent policy was generally equitable and fair towai-d the
Indians, frequent gross injuries and cruelties were inflicted on them by irrespon-
the Ken- t>ible English adventurers. Hence a burning sense of wrongs endured and tho

,nt3, with 2
, is situated
I has also a
,1 is located
(ol), and the
edge of the
uty buildings

,1 rhiUips ; to
I Kingfleld ; to
ta.

ut thinly popu-
ilange. '^:^^^^'! ft-
ns aie nionoto-
xliibited a slow
rasioned by the
w Kngland niee
severity of the
he soil, are sell'-
ich the pre:>ent
STO, and in ll»at
laine's loss, but
its of trust and

follows npthe
{Fanner s IIo-

Mt. Blue is
lulated co\intry
valley, within
streams. It is
ike. Travellers
)rning, passing
jaddleback Mt.,
. , and the stage
•eary wilderness
nip-ground, and

n Hock. Lake
1th is 2M. It
iuent among

akc is readied
IS 10 M. long by
Uelev to Umba-
labounding with

ite wilderness is

•onii

:• !

294 Jlouie 4"2. PORTLAND Tu TIIK UPPEIl KENNEBEC.

loHH of their niicfstral IiiikIh foni'd tin- Iiuli.iiis into ii coiistaiit Htatc of v/nrlikn
fervor. It iti h:w\ tliat Father \inU- ha<l a Hiiperh consecniti'd banner noatinj;
bplore his chunh, and enilihi/oiieij with the erosH arul a 1m)W nnd Hlicaf ot arrowH.
Tliis was the enisa<liii)s' Han liorne often ;in<l again over tlie Hniokinj' ruins of
Mnine and N. H. vilia;<e.s. In 170.j Norriil^ewor-k was (lestroye i liy 270 eoh)nial
Holdiers, who nianli'd thitlier swiltly in winter I'V the aid of snnu -shoes. At tlio
(do.se (if Queen .Vniie's War (I'e'iee of I'treeht ) the Haeiiein of lie tril'c went to
JJoHton, to (hniaiid workmen to rehnihl ttie viUa^re-fdiundi, and ; u indemnity for
tlie (h'.stnietion of tlie lion.scs. Ma.s.s. |iromise(l lidlh, on eonditioii that Norridge-
woek woiihl accept a I'liritin i>a.stor, lnit tlie Saidiem nd'nHe.i tlie condition. Tlio
Imlians hoou restored thoir homos, and snllered another jilunderitiK raid in 172'-',
for whi(di the cdast of Maine paid dearly. Jn 1721 it was Keen that the tril>e
must he dri\('n away hehire the co.ist-towns could he held securely, and in Au-
gust of that year all ntrocioiis attack was made on NorridKcwock Iiy20s colonial
.soldiers from Fort Kichniond. So carefully was the advance, guarded by llur-
Tuon's Hangers and a coin]mny of Mohawks, that the village was surrounded, and
the llrst intimation of the jtresencc of the colonials was conveyed in a shower of
l)uilets which swejit through the streets. Some of the Indians escaped thrfiugli
the thin environing lines, but all who remained in the wigwams— men, women,
ftnd children — were inassacrred.

"Th(! noise and tumult gave i 'ere Rale notice of tlie danger his converts wero
in, and he fearlessly showetl hiii.-.lf to tlu! enemy, hojiing to draw all iheir atten-
tion to h iiiself, and to secure tlie safety of his tlock at the jM-ril of his life. He
vs'as not disapi>ointed. As soon as lie aiijicared, the English .set up a great shout,
which was iolloued by a shower of shot, when he fell dead near to the cross which
lie had erecte(l in the midst of the village Scvt n chiefs, who sheltered his liody
with their own, fell around him. 'IMius diii this kind shepherd give his life for his
Hheei>, after a jiainful mission of :.', years." (CiiAKi.r.voi.x.) When the fragment
of the tribe re-entered the ruined village, they foui.d Hale's bo(ly, horribly muti-
lated, nt the foot of the mission (loss. "After his converts had raised up and
oft< ntinies kissed the precious remains, so tenderly and so, justly beloved l)y them,
they burie(l him in the .same jilMce where he had, the evening before, celebrate(i
the sacred mysteries, namely, the spot where the altar stood before the (diurcli
was buint." (IJhttiiir (Icunali' di' A'«»/'(7/c FrciiciA) Bishop I'eiiwick, of I)os-
tor, erected a granite olxdisk on the site of the chun h in IHH'.i. After lying deso-
late fur liiilf a century, Norridgewock was settled by the whites in 177^.

Slarks (Clifton Housed is a fiirming town 10 M. N, W. of Norrid.qewock,
with ti'i-weekly stprt'vs to Fariiiington, 13 M. W. (see Route 41). On the
main stage-route (tv.' ;he Forks) yl ».so7i, is N. of Stark.s, and is a considGr-
ahle, tliougli failing vilhxge, with 3 small hotels and ahout 1,700 inliahi-
tants. Kmhden is a large but thinly .settled town across the river from
Solo7i (inn), a decadent town near Carritunk Falls, where the Kennebec
narrows from 480 ft. wide to 40 ft., and falls about 20 ft. The stage-
ronte passes thnnigh Solon, Bingham, Moscow, and Carritunk, to The
i'VA-s, a forest-village of about 150 inhabitants, 45 M. N. W. of Skow-
hegan.

Mooseliead L.ike is 25-30 M. N. E. of The Forks, up the Kennebec. The great
Canada road (now but little used) runs N. W. from The Forks through the forest
to Taschereaii, u Canadian Dunlei -village, 50-00 M. dist,'< /it. Thence the I'oud
follows the valleys of the Hiviercs ilu Loup and Chaudieiv, through Liniere, Au-
bert Call ion, Vaudreuil, St. Joseph, St. Marie, St. Etienne, and Lauzon, to Quebec,
more than 180 M. from The Forks.

There is a stage-i'oute from Skowhegan to Dead River and Flag-staff Plantations
to the E. and N. of Mt. Rigelow, about 40 M. N. W. of Skowhegan.

1 See also Whittier's poem " Mogg Megone."

f » »

K(\

BOSTON TO MOOSEIIKAI) LAKE. Route iS. 295

(,f -.YnrUVp

i^r niins of
i7() colniiiil
„.s. At tho
.\\,^, Willi to
idcmiiity f'T
,ia Norii'lp"
aitiot.. t'o
liiitl 'n» ^ ' h-
l,ai tlif tin'«
. aii'l in -V*;
>'»0H colonial
,a,.a l.y llar-
,-rnu!>a<<l. iin«)
I, a Hliowov of
aiiiMl tlir*.u«U

converts were

all ih.ir utt.'n-

f his li^- ";^
, a umit Khout .

ltcrc<\ Ins l.o<\>
ve his life for liis
cu tin" frat;nitM.t
• horribly ">"<•:
\ niisi-a UP HU.l
beloved hy them,
u.fore. eelchra
fore the (■innrh
l.'euwi.k. of B"«-
After lying deso-
iii 177.5.

te41). On the
I is a cousi^ler-
^t 1,700 inlial'i-

the river from
le the Keunehcc

ft The stage-
.uviluuk, to TAe
kr w. of Bkow-

Inebcc. Thegreat
Kvongh the forest
I Then(;e the load
l,.„uuh Liniere, Au-
|S.on. to Quebec,

lag-staff Plantations
Bgan.

43. Boston or Portland to Moosehead Lake.

((f.) /{// S/i-owht'ffcn (Houte 42), wlieuco daily staj^cH run (in summer) to
the Lake. Distance, .OO .M. ; fare on the .st.".;?t', -SH-.W. Tliis route jiasses
through seven sparsely iiopulatetl larniing towns, witii tlieagi^regate num-
1 er of 8,7*22 inlialiitants.

(A.) /j// />''.'/'■/• (s(;t^ Houte 46 or 47 to Newport, wlieneo n branch rail
way runs N. in 1.') M. to Dexter). Dexter {Mrrrhanf.s' E.i'chnn'jt' ;
I}vxli'r IIiiHsr) is a jirosperous villajj;e in a town of nearly 3,000 inhabi-
tants, with woollen and other manufactories on tin; water-power given by
the outlet of a large; hill-pond. The town was settled in 1801, and has a
savings-bank, a weekly i)aper, and 5 churches. The stage leaves De.xter
ill the morning, and passes thro\igh the thinly settled farming towns of
Sangerville, Guilfurd, Abbott, Monson, and Shirley. The views of Mon-
bon Pond from Doughty's Hill, of Mt. Katahdin in the N. E., of the Lake
from the heights above Greenville, and of the Mts. of Al)bottand Monson,
render this a very i>ictures(pie route. (Seats on the outside of the stage
afford the best view. )

Tickets from Rostoii to Mt. Kiiion and return (pnod for several wocka) by this
route, niiiy Im bought for .■::! l^oo, at l.'U Wasliington St., Boston. Passengers
leaving the Kastcrn H. II. .station in Boston, at 8 p. M., or the Maine Central sta-
tion in I'ortlanil at 12.:tO a. m., arrive at Mt. Kineo at 6 o'clock next evening (tim«
tnblc of 1872).

(r.) Dy Bauffor. By sleeping-car on tlie night-express to Bangor,
arriving at 7 a. m. and breakfasting, then leaving for Guilford on the
Bangor and Piscataquis R. It., at 8 A. M.

{(i.) By steaTUcr from BoMmi to Bangor (Route 48), and thence as in
(c). By this route 48 hrs. an; required to get from Boston to the Lake.
By either of the two last-named routes, the Bangor and Piscataquis R. R.
is taken to Guilford, This line follows Route 49 to Oldtown, where it
diverges to the N. W. and cro.sses tho towns of Alton, Lagrange, Orneville,
and Milo, to .S'. Sehec. Stages run thence (0 M. ; 50 c. ) to Sebec, at the foot
of Sebec Lake, a beautiful sheet of water 12 I^L long. The steamer " Rip-
pling Wave " runs daily down to the Lake House, a summer-hotel on a
plateau near Granite Mt., in Bowerbank (leaving Sebec at 7.15 A. M., and
the Lake House at 4 p. M. ; fare, 50 c.). There is good fishing from
birch canoes and skiffs out on the lake, and picturesque mt. scenery on
the shores. The Ebeme Mts. are N. of Sebec .

7 M. beyond S. Sebec is the station, Dover and Foxcroft, between two
villages on the Piscataquis River. Dover (good inn) has nearly 2,000 in-
habitants, and is the shire-town of the forest County of Piscataquis, which,
with 3,780 .square miles of territory, has but 14,397 inhabitants. Fox-
croft (N. of the track) has 1,200 inhabitants, and a daily .stage runs thence
to Stc'lnian's Landing (5 M.), connecting with th'.> Sebec Lake steamer.

■ 9 ," »i

ii >

1.
J.

LAKE.

The treiin passes on 8 M. farther, to Guilford {Turner House) 61 M.
from Bangor. The stage-route to Mooseliead Lake leads thence for 23 M.
over the same road as that from Dexter.

Mooseliead Lake.

Greenville (Ijilr, llnnnc ; Krehth Honsf) is a small farming,' village on tlieS. shore,
and nl)out 5 M. W. of Wilsmi I'oihI wliicli is famed fiT its trout. Here maybe
Been many lumlu'rmcii,— Amciicaiis, Indians, and Caiiadia'i and Afadian Fivnrdi-
n<cn, — rude and stalwart foresters. "Maine has two (lasses of warriors anmng
its sons,— lighters of forest anil fighters of seas. Braves nuist join one or the
other army. The two are t lose allies."

Mooseliead Lake is 35 ]\L long, from 4 to 12 l^L wide, and contains 220
square miles. It is 1,023 ft. al)Ove the sea, to which its waters pass by
the Kennebec River. The .shores are monotonous and uncultivated, save
where Mt. Kineo runs out into the lake, tliougli distant mts. on either
side give variety to the vie\v. Hxcept Greenville, at the S. end, there are
no towns, plantations, or permanent settlements on these lonely shores.
Tlie fishing (trout, &c. ) in these waters and in tlie neighborii.'g .streams is
the grand attraction, though the moose-hunting has wellnigh pas.sed
away. In May, June, and early July the black lly is an unendurable
annoyance, and city men .should avoid the forest in that sea.son.

Steamers leave Greenville daily for Mt. Kineo. Passing out of the long,
deep cov€ in which the village is situated, the Stpiaw Mt. is seen on the
1. and the steamer runs N. between Deer Island on the 1. and Sugar Island
on the r. E. of the latter is Lilly Cove, strewn witli romantic islets and
surrounded by mts. Beyond Sugar Island the great bay is seen to the S.
W., through Avhich the Kennebec Hows outward toward the sea, while
Spencer Bay opens to the N. E., with Spencer Mt. (4,000 ft. high) at its
head. Katahdin may be seen to the N. E. on a clear day. The bold
bluffs of Kineo are now seen ahead, and the steamer stops near its base
and close by the hotel. The Kruen House is situated here (on a peninsula
which runs from the E. shore to within 1 M. of the W. shore), and is v
■vvell-kept house, much fre(iuented by Bostonians, and famed for its trout.
The Blue Ridge lies W. of Kineo, and Brassua Lake, about 6 M. distailt
in that direction, is much visited by fi.shing-parties.

Mt. Kineo is very near the liotel, and is -700 ft. above the lake, with
a vast, sheer prei;ipice of purph; Hint running down to the water, and for
over 1,000 ft. below. The mt. is (piickly ascended (with a guide), and
reveals a fine view of the Lake, with Squaw Mt. on the S. , the Bine Ridge on
the W., the Spencer and Lilly Cove Mts. on the S. E., and Katahdin on the
N. E. The sandy beaches near the slopes of the mt. alTo: d ^ileasant rambles.

At 16 - 18 M. N. of Mt. Kineo, over the desolate-shored North Bay, the end of the
Lake is reached, and a well-travell(>d jKirtage of 2 M. leads aewss to the Penobscot
River. This river may be fiesrendeu in a birch-canoe weU guided (]iassing several
rapids) to Chesuncook Lake, 20-30 M. N. E. Plain forest-fare and rude forest-
life must be encountered here. Chesuncook is about 20 M. long and 1 -3 M. wide.

rORTLAND TO ROCKLAND. lioulc 44. 21)7

ise) 61 M.
for 23 M.

HioS. shore,
Icrc may be
liiUi Fn'iK'b-
viors among
one or the

and lies to the S. of the large Lakes, Caut'omgninuc and Cauconigomosis, atid the
Allagash chain of lakes, tiie sDiithcniniost and lar^'t-st of whirli is ApmogtMiaj^'ti-
niook. Beyond Chesuncook (H. E.) Uipoj^'einis F.akc is travciscd, tlit-n eMsucs a ',\
M. portat,'(i, ind tlien tho river is deseeiuled for many leagues lu IViiiadiuncook
Lake, with Mt. Katahdin boldly prominent on the N. K. and N. This mt. is some-
times aspended with the eanoo-guidcs, from tlicrivcr, -a long anci arduous
journey. From IVmadu'nrook the '"idrnim,' river (more ^irojierly the W. liraneh
of the Penobscot) may be tollowed to Mattawamkeag or Oldtown.

Good guides, a sui)i)ly of ]>rovisions, ;ind strong clotliing are requisite fortius
tour, which rccjuires 7 -JO days, fnnu (ireeiiville to Oldtown. (Sec a vigorou.s
account of this route ])y Theodore Winthrop, " Life in the Upeu Air," Chaps.
VL-XV, ; also Thoreau's "Maimj Woods.")

outains 220
Brs pass by
ivated, save
s. on either
id, there are
nely shores.
^ streams is
nigli passed
unendurable

3n.

t of the long,
seen on the
Sugar Island
ic islets and
eeu to the S.
le sea, while

high) at its
■. The bold
near its base
u a peninsula
)re), and is r

for its trout.

6 M. distaitt

the lake, with

/ater, and for

la guide), antl

iBluerddgeou

itahdin on the

isant rambles.

the end of the
L'the Penobscot,
(passing several
vl rudft forest-
ed 1 - 3 M. wide,

44. Portland to Rockland.

By the Maine Central and Knox and Lincoln Railways, in 96 M. 1 >'■
train leaves the Portlaml an<l Kennebec station in Portland and j)a.sses
over Route 47 to Bnmswick, Stages run thence to Harpswell and Orr's
Island. A few miles beyond Brunswick, the train reaches Bath (* Srigada-
hoc House : Bath Hotel), a decadent old maritime city situated on the
Kennebec River, 12 M. from the sea. Bath has 7,380 inhabitants, with a
valuation of ,$G, -400,000, 7 banks, and a daily i)aper. It was foiincrly
the fourth city in the republic in the shipbuilding busines.s, and grew in
wealth and prosperity until the decline of American commerce. This
branch of industry wa.s foun<lcd hen^ in 17(12, and was favored by the fa-
cility with which tiir^ best ship timber was lloateddown the Keimebec from
the northern forests, in 1S53 and 1854 the tonnage built here amounted
to 107,854. The city has a fine harbor, rarely emoarrassed with ice, and
deep enough fo. the largest ships. The streets are irregular in tlieir
contour, and the settled district extends for over 3 M. along the W. bank
of the river, l)eirg only about ,^ M. wide. The river at this point is over
^ M. in width, and is rapid and deep. There is a ne^n Government
building here, also tlie Sagadahoc County buildings.

The site of Bath was first visited by Capt. Weymouth in 1G05. It was bought
from Robin Hood, an Indian chief, by Kev. Robert (iutch, of Salem, who lived
here from 16(50 to 1G7!'. Tiie growth of tlie settlement was very slow imtil tin;
close of the Revolutionary War, when an act iv»' lumber and shipping trade sprang
up, which was V)ut momentarily inj ueii by the Knibargu and the War of ISl-J.
From causes which are natiunal rather than local, IJatli's Icailing industry lias
been checked, and the city is going (piietly down liill with the other small mari-
time cities of Xow Kiigiand.

Stages run <laily to Arrowsic and Georgetown. Steamers nui to Phipsburg,
Georgetown, Arrowsic, IJoothliay, PeniiKpiid, ami Waiiloboro.

The long peninsulas ami narntw pan.Ucl islands wliich run into the sail water
beluw liath aie very i'ltere.sting in a histori;al pnint of view. ArvowAic is an
island town with about 'J')U inhabitants, 011 •_'(), 000 acres of land, nnich of which iti
salt-marsh. This island was settled and fortiiied in l(i<'JI, and its settlement was
destroyed by an Indian raid in 17-'"!. In another midnight aitucK. .W houses were
l)unit, and 35 persons were kiile<l and captured in tiie tort, wiiicii was stormed in
the darkness. Months after, a detachment of soldiers landed to bury tiie dead,
liut were ambushed and rudely handled. (Irorgetnwn is an island town below
Arrowsic, with similar annals of early adveiiture. Phituhnrij is a long jtcuinsula,
stretching for about I'i M. from Bath to Bald Head Cape, boiuidfd on the W. by

1:5*

298 Route 44-

WOOLWICH.

I !

M<i

Qiiohog Bay, and on the E. by the widenings of the Xennebee. The Huguenot chief,
\)v. Mdiits, i)lant<;d the cruss here in 1004, and in 1(107 >Sir George I'ophani and
Uak-igli (iilljert (ne])hfw of .Sir Waiter Raleigh) came liere witii 2 ships and 100
men. "They sayit'd uji into the river neere 40 leagues, and found yt to be a very
gallant river, very decjio," and tlicn n-tunifd to this peninsula, where they landed
and ccioljratod tlic service of tlic lOpiscopal Clmrcli, assembled around their chap-
Jain. Tills is said to liavi- been the tirst Christian service in New Kngl-^nd. A
line of caliins and a clnirch were built, and Kort St. (Jeorge was raised for tlieir
protection. After a (piarrel between the colonists and Indians, the latter got
pos.session of the fort, and iijundered it ; hut having scattered anuuid several bar-
rels of j)owder (heing ignorant of its (lualitifs), it caughl (ire and exjilodeil, de-
stroying the fort and tlie Indians. The remaining aliorigiiies, interiireting the
fatal exjilosion as a I)i\ ine jiunisliincnt, hastened to be reconciled with the colo-
Tusts, whom they sujiplied with food all winter. The intense cold of the winter
of 1G07-8, the destruction of their stores, the dubious favor of the Indians, and
tlie death of I'opham and other leailers eauseil thi' colony to break up in the
sjtring au<l return to ICngland, having "found nothing but extreme extremity."
1'he i>eninsula was resettled in 17K) by tlie Tcjepscot proprietors, who erected
here a stone foi-t 100 ft. s(|uare, made houses and I'oads, and establislied a line of
eonminnieation by sea with Uoston. A few years later it was destroyed liy a sud-
den Indian attack, and the fort was demolished. The jicninsula was again settled
in 17;?7. and in 1814 was incorporated, and named in honor of Sir William riii[)s.
The town has 1,.'J-I4 inhabitants, largely engaged in fishing ami shipbuilding, and
its shores are rugged and irregular. Segiiin Islanil lies (df shore to the S. There
are one or two small summer lioarding-houses on the peninsida.

The ;id Maine Regiment, in the Secession War, was raised in the Kennebec
Valley, between Plsiiisbiirg and SUowhegaii. It was one of the bravest regiments
in tli<^ army, was cngageil in nearly all the great Virginian battles, and at Gettys-
burg alone lost 113 men. Koward was its lirst colonel.

At Batli llio tliroTigli cars for Rockland are taken across the Kennebec
River on a large steam ferry-boat, and run on to the rails of the Knox
and Lincoln Railroad at Woi>lin'rh, on the farther shore. This town was
settled in lGo8 on tlie Indian doi.iain of Ncquasset, and was depopulated
by an attack in l(J7t). 50 years later it was resettled, and in 1759 was in-
corpoi'ated as Woolwich, so named from a resemblance of the Kemiebec
River at this point to the English Thames at Woolwich.

William Pliips was born at Wotdwich in 1G51, and was a shejiherd on its rocky
hills. Learning how to read and wi'ite, and then actpiiring the art of .ship-car-
l>entering, he rose in consideration and influence. In 1084 he sailed from Lomlon
in a war vessel, to att nipt the reco\try of the gidd from a sunken Si>anish treas-
iire-shii> near the Jiahanias. Tlie (piest was Tinsuccessful, V>ut in 1087 he suc-
ceeded in recovering froiu tin; wreck y 1,,''>(IO,U()0 in jewels and bars of gold aixl
silver. He was knighted by the king, and received !? 80,000 of the treasure. He
commaniled the exi)edition which took Port Royal from the French, and from lOKJ
to lO'.ti h(! was Gov. of Mass. In 1004 he died suddenly at London, where he had
gone to render an account of his government. His activity, l.'ravery, and enter-
prise enabled him to rise from the tasks of an unlettered shepherd on the Wool-
wich liills to the governtrship of the chief British province in America.

Beyond Woolwich the train i)asscs the country stations of Nequasset
and Montsweag, and then stops at Wincas^ct (Hilton Housed, a maritime
town on the Sheepscot River, 12 M. from the .sea. It has 1,978 inhaln-
tants, ii bankS) and a weekly iia[»er (tlie " Seaside Oracle "). The widen-
ings of the river opposite Wiscasset afford a broa<l and cajiacious harbor,
with 12 - 20 fathoms of water, and but rarely troubled v/ith ice. It was

PEMAQUID.

noule 44. 299

jliiiui and
s and 100
I be a very
[\cy landtid A

Axtiir cliap- f

igl,'>nd. A
I for tbcir
lattiT got
ievcvid b;vr-

l)l0dl'«l, dt- ;

j.irting the . i

h the colo- I

the wint.n-
ndians, an<l
V ui> in tho
cxtn'niity.
who ertMtfd
lotl a lini' of
„,\ l,y a svid-
again scttlfd
illiani riiips.
(MvUdini;, ^"^
:he9. There

the Kennebec
•est regiments
ind at Gettys-

Ihe Kennebec
f the Knox
lis tnwn was
depopulated
1739 was in-
ve Kennebec

•a on its rocky
n-t of sbiivcar-
.(I from l^ondon
ripaiusb tveas-
,n 1C87 iio suc-
u-s of gold and
■ troasnre. !»•'
>, and from W-'-
1 whirebebad
,;,i.y. and enter-
■a on tlic Soul-
ier ica.
of Nequasset
.e\ a maritime
1,978 inhabi-
I). The wideu-
lacious harbor,
\h ice. It was

once talked of for a U. S. naval station. This town was laid under con-
tribution by the Britisli sioop-of-war " Rainbow," during the Revolution.
Its palmiest days wore between 1780 and 1806, when the maritime trade
was very extensive, and many leagues of back country were dependent on
it for supplies. Tliis pros])erity was ruined by the ?]mharpo and tlie War
of 1812, and Wiscasstit is now only a pleasant village, fading slowly from
its pictures(pie hills.

Daily stages run froni Wiseasset to liimthhaii (tw<> inns), M. S., another of the
ancicii't luMiinsidar towns. It was visittd by Wcyinouth in UU)'> ; setth'd in \('>'M) ;
di'stroyi'd in KJ.SS ; and jL'sctth'il in 17-io. Its liiu' harbor was (■l\o.st'n for a naval
station by the IJritisli governiia-nt about 1770, but the outbreak of the Ilcvolu-
tioUciry War jireventt-d national worlds iVoni being constructed. Tiie town has
8,200 inhabitants, who are mostly engaged in the tisheries, the coasting trade, and
in sliipbuililing. The village is very attractive, with islanils in front guarding
the nobh' harbor, in w]ii(di, during long storms, 4-.'j0i) sail of lishing vessels
sometimes take refuge. Many summer visitors rest at Hoothbay, whii h is reachetl
also by steamer from Hatli. The stcimer touches, ni route, at Southport (Rose-
wood Cottage), an insular town inhabited by lisluM-men. The S. cxtnMuity of
this island is Cape Newagi'u, wheme the Damariscove Islands are seen on th(! E.
Wcstport is another insidar town, 11 M. long, to the W. of Boothijay, and inhab-
ited by fishermen.

Beyond Wiscasset the train passes to the .station, XewcasUr and f>am-

an'scnita. A considerable settlement was made at New(;astle early iu

the 17th century, as is evinced by tlie traces still seen. It was probably

destroyed by the French, and its memory has faded from history. Many

years after this colony fell, another was estaldished, which was destroyed

in King Philip'.s War. A tlurd settlement or the same site was destroyed

in lt)88, and the land lay desolate for 30 yer.rs. The town now contains

1,729 inhabitants, mostly engaged in manufacturing. Damarircotta (Elm

/louse ; Jfaivc Hotel) was settled in K540, and was a frontier post of the

old Pemaquid Patent. It Avas often assailed by the Indians, and twice or

thrice was abandon^id. It v/as named for Damarinc, Sachem of Saga(la-

hoc (cn'ied Robin Hood by the Knglisli), and now is generally spoken of,

in the country-sid', as " Scottie." It has 1,334 inhabitants, an<l ship-

liuilding is the chiei hidustry. The Damariscotta River separates it from

Nev castle.

Stagi run to Alna, Pittston, and Gardiner ; to Jetferson and Augusta ; to Bris-
tol and n).T(|uid. Bristnl is a territorially large town, embracing nearly all the
lieninsul between the Damariscotta Hiver ami Muscougus Bay. It has about
3,000 inha itants, and at the village of Round Pond are extensive oil-works.

Pemaquid.

On and near t rocky promontory in the extreme S. of Bristol is the .site of the
ancient colony of I'emaqiiid, than which no locality in Xew Kngland has more of
historic charm. The Maine Historical 8o(ncty has e-xplored these deserted shores,
and the site and ruins of Fort Frederick have been secured for a monument to be
erected in honor of tlie pioneers.

Capt. Weymouth visited Pema<iuid in 1005, ami kidnapped several Indians. 10
years later a furious war l)rok(' out between the Tarratiiu' Indians ami the Bashaba
or Chief of tlie Western Maine iribes. The Bashabi .iml his nmilv and e<Mincil-

300. Route U.

WALDOBORO.

•r ;

f. i

3 i

lors were put to death by a daring inroad of tlic Tarratines, but tlie tribes liad
bofomc ^rreatly reduced ))y the war and an ensuiuK jit'stilcnce. The Wawcn.n'ks
(fear-naughts) occupied the jiciiinsulas about I'cnuKiiiid, itut were so reduced in
strengtli as to V)e luiable to prevent eoloni/.ition. In Ki.'iO it is said tiiat a fort
was erected here, and in 1C31 tlie Pemaquid Patent was granted to two menliants
of Bristol. In 1632 the jiiratc Dixcy Bull entered the liarbor, ]iltuidered tlie
village, and earried away the vessels. Massacliusetts sent an armed shiji against
biin, but he was taken by a royal cruiser, and cx<'cutcd (probably) at London in
1GH5. In 1648 all this region was f(U-ined into a " Ducal State," ami made an aji-
]ianage of James, I)uk<' of York (aftci w.'irds Kint^ James II.). No religious servic(>
but the Anglican was allowed. In 1(;H5, the K! giui brig " .\ngel (inbriel " was
wreek(!d here, and in 1071 Sir Hdnunid Andros built Fort Charles, brought in
many Dutch innnigraiits, and nameil tin; place Jamestown. It had then three
long, i)aved streets, with several cross-streets, jind was called " the metro]iolis of
N(^w England." The Imliaus remained trancpiil during King l*hili]>'s War, until
they had siitl'cred grave attronts from tlic colonists, when tiicy swcjit ilown on
Pemaquid and utterly destroyed it. Many of tlie iieoiilo es'ape(i in boats to iMon-
hegan, an island far out in the sea. In iOTS the jtlace was reoecujiied, and in
KWO it was again destroyed by the Tarratines, tlie " cajitains of the garrison
having been killeil. The imint was reoccupied by S.')() Mass. troojis, and in Ki'.iJ
Sir William IMiips (U'ected a stone fort here, mounting IS guns, and called the
strongest on the continent. This was named Fort Willi.im Henry, and soon
repulsed an attack by 2 French :5()-gun frigates. In Kl'.i;', i:i Tarratine and Penob-
scot chiefs submitted at the settlenu'ut, and the village grew rapidly. In biW
Iberville (having defeated an English fleet on the coast) attiicked the place with a
fleet bearing several hundred French regulars, some .Mic-Mne Indi;ins, and 2C0
Tarratines under Baron de Castine. After Iximba riling Fort William Henry from
batteries on the ojtposite jioint and from the fleet, a breach was made and the
fort was taken. The settlement was jdundered and ruined, and the surviving
inhabitants were led into caidivity. It was soon settled again, and when Mass.
took possession of Maine its jteople beggeil that lVma(iuid might " remain the
nietn ] )litau of these ])arts, because it ever havt^ been .so before Bo.ston was
settled." In 17'24 the ruined fort was somewhat repaired to defend the people in
Lovewell's War, and in 17'M) it was rebuilt under the name of Fort Frederick, by
Col. Dunbar, surveyor of the King's woods in America. This ofticer had a fine
mansion here, and laid out a new city, but was soon relii'ved on account of his
arl)itrary acts, and was ma(h> (Jov. of St. Helena. Fort Frederick was attacked in
1745, and in 1747 it was assaulted by a French force, which was rejiulsed with
heavy loss. The fort was destroyed by the ]u>oiple in the Revolutionary War, lest
it shoidd become a British post. In ISLS a sharp naval battle occurred off Pema-
quid Point, when the American brig " Enterjirise " was attacked by the British
brig "Boxer." After a c(U)flict of 48 minutes the "Boxer" surrendered, having
sufl'ered severe losses. In 1814 the place was attacked by 275 men in boats from
the frigate " Maidstone," who were rejudseil with such severe loss that the
captain of the frigate was discharged from the British navy.

Ancient fortifications, streets, cellars, wharves, and cemeteries are found all
over the Point, and many remarkable antiquities may be shown by the farmers
near the now deserted jxiint.

" Tho rpstloss sea resounds along the shore.

The lipht land-breeze flows oi'twmd with a sigh,
And each to each seems chantinp evermore
A monrnful memory of the days pone by.
Here, wliere they lived, all holy thoiiL'ht.s revive,

Of patient strivinc and of faith held fast ;
Hero, where they died, their buried records live.
Silent they speak from out the shadowy past."

Pemaquid; a ballad.

After leaving Damariscotta the line i)asses through Xohlehoroiigh (3
stations) to. Widdohoro (Medomaek House), which was settled by 1,500
Germans in 1753- i. Their descendants still remain in the town, which
has over 4,000 inhabitants. Station, Warren, a shipbuilding town, which

III

IIK

an
;.'r;

ill'

it 'I

ROCKLAND.

Route 44. 301

(,,\uccil in
liat a fort

Ail. av^ainst
Loinlou in
[itlc an ap-
,ms s<Mvi«^n
ihrit'l" was
brou^^ht m
then thiTO
ptropolis of
^War, iiiitil
nt down «>n
Kits to Mon-
pic<l, an<l m
111,, garriscn
an.l in KV.'J
il calic'l till"
•y and soon
(. 'and renoi.-
Uy. In l'>-''>
. place vNitl' •'
lians, and 200
1 Henry Irom
nade and tlie.
the snrvivnig
,1 when Mass.
"remain the
;;> Bostcni was
tlic people ni
Frederiek, »>'
t.pv had a line
iccount of his
-as attacl^etV]"
repulsed With
„nrv War. lest
iried olV I't'io'V
,Ythe British
.iored, havm;^
in V)oats from
l„ss that the

^Pe found all
by the fanners

tuid : a

ballad.

hbleboroiigh (3
Itled by 1,500
town, which
icr town, which

was settled by Sooteh- Irish in 1736. Station Thomaston (Knux Jluuse ;
(jt'orgcs House), situated on a deep narrow harbor, and containing the
Maine State Prison. The prison was established in 1824, and up to 1872,
1,100 conviets had served their time out, 390 had been pardoned, 18 had
escaped, and in that year 128 convicts remained within its walls.

In ITiiO a fort was Imilt Iwie (near tiie present railway-station), anil fjarrisoned
nnd armed with cannon by Mass. It was tnriously att.icUfd hy tin- 'I'arratine In-
dians in ll'l'l, and, an assanlt led by l-'rindi monks having,' been disastrously re-
]pu1s(!i1, a mine was du;,'. This work wa-> so unscientiliially dune that it fell in
on tlie hesiej^'crs, wlio retired in confnsidr;. In midwinter of 172:t it was af^aiu
bi'lea^'uered vainly for .'iO days, and in 1724 it was attacked l>y a fleet tif '.'•_' vessels
(captured tisliermen). A sliarii naval skirmish was fou^dit witli coloTdal relief-
ships, whiidi were forced to retire, ^.'reatly damaged liy tlie Indian artillery. Hut
ihe fort still hehl .>ut and repulsed every attiick, and stuiid until the Itevoliition,
when it was d' luolished by tlu; Hritish. (ieu. Waldo (who died in 17.'>'.») <>btaine(l
l)i>ssessinu ol the .Musenn^Mis Patent, embr.n'in.u' a tract of .'io .M. wide on e.ieh
side of the Penobscot, and settled tiie ixMiinsulas with (Jermans and fSi'otch-lrisli.
Tills tract came into i>ns.sessiou of (icn. Knox through his wife, who was the
heiress of jiart of it, .'ind about 17'.'."> he i>uilt here the fiiu'st mansi(Ui in Maine,
and lived in baronial state, entertaining numerous guests with splendid hosiu-
tality.

Henry Knox w;is born in Boston in 17o0, and became a skilful military en-
gineer and artillerist. IIi^ was commander of the artillery of the (Continental
Army, engaged in most of the important battles and sieges of the Revolution,
and was Secretary of War from 17.S'j to 17it5. He originated the first and only
order of American chiviilry, the .Society of the Cincinnati, was strongly aristo-
cratic in his tastes, and demanded the observance of the eticpiette of a palace at
his manor in Thomaston. The Knox mansion stood close to tlu; ]M'esent railway-
station (which was one of the oltices of tiu; estate), and was demolished in lS7:i.

iStages run from TlKjmaston to the ancient ]peni'isular towns of Cushiug and
I'"riendship, on Muscongus Hay ; also to St. (tcorge, a historic old town, wliieh
projects into the sea, and is near the islands which Weynumth named St. (leorge's
(in loot). Weymouth set up a cross (.\ngliean) on these shores, an<l wrote, "I
doubt not .... it will prove a very nourishing j>la<e [Maine] and be re-
jilenished with many faire townes and cities, it lieing a jirovince both fruitful and
lilea.sant." In 1724,' 1(3 soldiers from the Thomaston Fort, leil by ('apt. Winslow,
vvt'i-e ambu.shed and destroyed among St. George's Islands, and in 1753 a strong
stone fort was built on this peninsula.

Beyond Thomaston the train soon reaches Rockland ( Thnrndike Hotel),
a city of 7,000 inliabitants, with 1 national and 3 state banks, 2 weekly
Dapers, and 8 churches. The city is pleasantly situated on Owl's Head
Bay, S. of the Camch'U Mts., and looks out on Penobscot Bay. Ship-
building is carried on lierc, but the chief industry is lime-burning, the
city having 80 kilns, emidoying 1,000 men, and making 1,200,000 barrels
yearly. The kilns should be seen by night.

Stages run to S. Thomaston ami the bold cditfs of Owl's Head ; to St. George ;
to Augusta, and to Camden ami Belfast.

Steamers fcu' Bangor, Portland, Mt. Desert, and Machias touch at this port.

iJix Island is a few miles Irom Kockland, and is avast mass of granite. (iOO
men worked here in 1872, cutting stone for the New Vtak Post Ullice, the stones
tieing carved and numbered, all ready to swing into position. The immense
iiionolithie colunuis of the U. S. Treasury building at Washington were cut here,
and the vessels load directly from the sides of the ledges. It is thought that this
granite is unrivalled for t>eauty, compactness, and uni!brmity.

Nearly lirdf of the valiant I'enobscot regiment (4th .Maine) was rai.sed at Roek-
1 iiid in ISOl. It received a stand of colors from the ladies of New York, and lost

302 Route 45. PORTLAND TO iMOUNT DESERT.

II:

If ;

4> •! '

V'^

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-•

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•*!.';

^ If .

.'• •'!

? '•

in men at the Bull Run l.attlcs, lon at tlio FrfMlcricksljiir« ))attles, 138 at fiettys-
Imrg, and 184 on tli<; lir.st day nl' tlie NVildcriifss caiiiiiai^n. '.iUi of its nieinbera
died in the seivi(!e. Us ((ilonfl, 11. (i. Ikiry, hecamc, u inajor-f^eneral, and was
killed at the head of his division (;id, of the 3d Curps) at the battle of Chancel-
lorsville.

45. Portland to Mount Desert.

In stormy weather it is best to go from Portland toRo'kland by rail (Route 44),
and then- take the steamer. Mt. Desert is 110 M. N. E. of i'ortland, and the faro
to H;ir Harbor is S5.oO.

Passengers leaving lioston by Route 157 (Eastern R. R.) at 6 r. M. Tuesday or
Friday, will reaeh I'ortland in time for tint steamer, whicii leaves at 10 r. m., or
on the arrival of the train. The jiier is near the station. Fares from Roston to
liar Harbor, or Maehiaspin't, $0.00 ; to Castine, ;i!i4.00. .See also Route 48.

The teanier "Lewistnn" leaves Portland at 10 P. M. and passes over
ordinarily (inlet waters, outside tlic famous i)eniiisular town.s of Sagada-
hoc and Lincoln Counties, to Rockland, wliic h is reached at 5 A. M. TIio
tourist sliould arise as early as possible, to enjoy the scenery of Penob-
scot Bay. Leaving Rockland, with Owl's Head on the r. and the j)ictur-
esijue Camden Ilills on tlie 1., tlie steamer crosses tlie broad Penobscot
Bay, between the insular towns of Islesborongh avd Vmalliaven, and at
about 7 A. M. reaches Castine (two inns). Tliis is a i)relty village on a
narrow peninsula projecting into the bay, and its history is of great
interest.

Castine.

This peninsula was called Pentagoet, and was taken by the Plpnouth Com-
l)any for a trading-post. There was a Puritan f<n-t here in 162ti, and at a later
day the place was taken l>y tlie tleet of l)'.\ulney, who ha<l been sent out by Car-
dinal Richelieu and Razilla, to recover Acadia. D'Aulncy built strong fortitiea-
tions here, and withstood a hmg bonil)ardment from two Mass. ships under Capt.
(iirling. The next few years arc made romantic by the wars of the rival feudal lords,
D'Aulncy and La Tour, tlie one Catholic ;ind tlic otlicr Huguenot, in wliich Pen-
tagoet and St. .John sutl'crcd repeated sieges and attacks. In 1074 a Dutch tleet
t<iok Pentagoet after suflering .some losses. In 1007 Vincent, Baron de St. Cas-
tin, formerly colonel of the l{oyal Carignan Regiment, and the lord of Oleron, in
the Flench Pyrenees, came to Pentagoet, married the (laughter of Matloekawando,
the Sachem of the Tarratines, ami became the apostle of Catholicism among the
tribes, who revered him nuire than his creed. In 1088 Sir Kdnmnd Andros,
witli the " Rose " frigate, jjlundered the settlement, and St. Castin was ever after
a bold enemy of Mass. In lO'.tO he led his Indians in Iberville's fleet against
Pemaiiuid. which he destroyed. After living here for 30 years, he fought in tlie
Nova Scotia cam]iaigns of 1700-7, and then returned to France. His son by the
Tairatiiie jirincess liecame cliief of the Ptniobscot tribes, and was a i)eacefnl,
brave, and magnanimous gentleman, who ruled his wild subjects successfully
until 17-1, wlien he was led iirisoner to Boston. He usually wore the Indian
costume, but sometimes ai»iteared in a superb French uniform. In 17-'-* he went
to France, and took iiossession of his father's property, honors, and sei;jniorial
riglits, and lived until his death on his Pyrenean estates. Lineal descendants
of the St. Castins have governed the Tarratines until the i)resent (at least until
1800). The New-Englanders settled at Castine in 1700, and in 1770 it was fortihed
by 0."A) British soldiers. Mass. sent a powerful force against this point, consist-
ing of 2,000 soldiers, in 24 transports, (onvoyed by It) war-vessils, carrying 344 ,
cannon. The .\mericans were twice rejiulsed from the peninsula, but after losing Isul
loo men in a third attempt they landed and ojicned batteries. After several days l^pj
of cannonading, 7 British frigates (204 guns) entered the bay, and l)ore down vu >^
the crescent line of American ships. After one br<)adside tlie .American line wy.- f'l'jj

hul
fid

*' '1

MOUNT DESEllT.

lioutc 45. 303

t Gettys-
iintl was

Uonte 44),
lid the fare

Tuesiliiy or

10 V. M-. ^'^
I Uv)stou to

Lc48.

passes over
of Saga'^a-

y of Peuob-
\ the pictviT-
a Penobscot
laveii, and at
village on a
y is of great

>unnouth Com-
i ^a.ul ut a late^
out out ^y.Vifa-
Vinsumlei Cal^-
Iv^HeudaUora;;.

Ui3 sonb> tu-
.\mtv\oau uii>-

Ije^'

broken, and a disgraceful dphamlmk ensued. After a hot ])nrsuit ainon^ the
island.-, and up the river, every vessel of the ^neat tieet was taken or destroyed,
without resistance. The army stra^';,dfd in lnoken s(|iiads to tlie Keinieltee set-
tlements, and Commodore .Saitnnstall was cashirred for the most slianiefid ilefeat
wiii'di America ever sutVered on tlie sea. fast ine was lidd 1)V tlie Hritish from
177'.' to 17"^:}. ami was afjain taken and held hy 4.000 of their troops in the War of
isrj. The history of Castine has more romantie interest than that of any New
En^dand town, and its soil al»o inds with tlie relics of 5 natii>nal occupatiims,
while 5 naval battles have been iouyht in its harbor.

Castine is a wealtliy town, with neat wide strcet.s and fine residences.
It is tlie seat of the Eastern Normal School, and has 3 chnielies. The
chief hnsiness of the pooide is connected with the .sea, in shiphuilding,
coasting, or the deejt-sea fisheries. Faint truces of St. Castin's fort are
seen, and on the hill behind the village the English Fort George is well
preserved. The remains of various American }>atteries and field-works
are found on the peninsula, while the harbor is commaiuled by a neat
little fort recently erected by the United States. Castine i.s a favorite
summer-resort, by reason of its seclusion, its heroic memories, its fine
boathig and fishing facilities, and the salubrity of its sea-breezes.

From Castine the steamer turns S., and rounding Cape Rosier, j)a.sses
through a narrow sound, and .stops at I Jeer Idc, an insular town of ,'],400
inhabitants, devoted to the deep-sea fisheries. The souinl is then crossed
to Seihjioick, a rugged and thiidy iidialjited town, beyond which the
course is S. E. around Naskeag Point, and across the island-strewn Bay,
^vith Mt. Desert looming in front, and the lofty Blue llill (950 ft. high)
on the N. Passing around the lower point of Tremont, S. W. Harbor is
entered, ami the steamer stops at a pier near a great lobster-canning fac-
tory. Leaving this point, the island shores are rounded, with their re-
markable rock-bound cliffs and overhanging mountains, and Bar Harbor
is soon reached (at about noon).

Mount Desert.

Hotels, At S. IV. Harhnr. Island House ; Ocean ; Freeman. At SomesviHe,
Sollies' T.-ivern. At Bar Ildrhor, A'^^nimmt House; Bay View ; Ilamor ; Rodiek ;
Uockaway ; Eden; Atlantic; St. Sauveur ; Ocean; Xewjiort; Deering ; Kebo ;
Wayside ; Green Mt. House. These hotels are mon; properly lar^e boarding--
houses, at which board may be obtained for about .'•3 10.00 a week. There is al-
ways a sntllcicncy of food, but owin^^ to the remoteness from market, there is nut
so much variety as might be desired.

Mount Desert is an island covering 100 square miles, and is distin-
guished for its wild and romantic scenery of mountain, lake, and shore,
and for its curious and poetic history. Politically, it is divided into 3
towns, with an aggregate of about 4,000 inhabitants, on G0,000 acres of
. land. It is said that there is no point (except Rio Janeiro) on the x\tlan-
jtic coast of the Americas, where such magnificent scenery is found, — the

i sublimity of the mountains challenging the eternal grandeur of the sea.
There are 13 ilistinct mountain-peaks here, with numerous lakes, while a
Ideup, narrow arm of the sea runs to the N. nearly through the island.

''I ' ■.
t '«

If ' *

iil t

I *

't ■

i ■

I? I

^i|.;.

.304 Jiui(ic4o.

MOUNT DESKliT.

The sea-shore by Bar JIarbor. Tlie view from llie village is very pretty,
extending across the Porcuitine Isluiids in Frencliiuan's Bay to the rolling
liills of GonMsborough. 'I'liere are l)eache.s near tlie village, and on a
liigli, rocky islet near by is the summer residence of Gen. Fremont. The
beach rambles may bi- done by the Avater-side at low tide, but the chief
points of interest are more easily and safely reached by the roads which
follow tlie sliore. CronnrcWs Ci>vr is nearly \h M. 8. of the village, and
lias bold difl'-shores, on one of wliich is seen the rock-ligure called the
Assyrian. Tlie Indian's Foot (a foot-print in the rock) and the Pulpit
are in tliis vi(dnity. 4 M. S. of Bar Hariior (by a road leading under New-
port Mt. on the r., and with the Bay and tin- ri»untl-l)acked and bristling
I'orcupine Islands on tlie 1.) is Schooner Head, a high, wave-washed
clilf, with a white formation on its seaward side, which resembles a
schooner under sail. It is said to have been cannonaded l)y a British
frigate in 1812, The Spouting Horn is a pas.sage worn through the cliff,
through which the billows sweep in stormy weather, and form an inter-
mittent fountain above the cliff. The Mermaid's f.'ave is S. of the Head,
and l.\ M. beyond is * Great Head (gained by a field-path to the 1.), "the
highest headland between Cape Cod and New Brunswick," with wonder-
ful clitls and chasms, and a broad sea-view, Newport Beach stretches
beyond Great Head to Thunder Cave (entered only by boat), which is in
tlie lofty Otter Creek Cliffs.

G-7 M. N. W. of Bar Harbor are the Ovens, a range of caves in the
})ori)hyritic cliffs on Salisbury Cove, wliere tlie sea lias j)roduced some
fine effects of beach and worn rocks and briglit and dripj)ing ledges. The
Via Mala is a long passage in the neighboring difls. At Hull's Cove
{lIulVs Cove House, §7-10.00 a week), 2 M. N. of Bar Harbor, is a neat
crescent beach, near which the Gregoires dwelt. Madame Marie Therese
de Gregoire was the granddaughter of the Gascon noble, Condillac, to
whom the King of France granted Mt. Desert in 1(388. In 1785 she
claimed and received the island, and lived here with M. Gregoire until her
death (about 1810). From Point Levi, N. of the Cove, a fine view is
given of Frenchman's Bay, which is 10-12 M. long and about 8 M. wide,
witli Newport and Schoodic Mts. on r. and 1., at its entrance, — "the
I'illars of Hercules at Mt. Desert,"

* Jordan's Pond is 9 M. S. W. of Bar Harbor, by a road passing
through Echo Notch. About 8 M. Ijeyond the village a side road to the
r. is taken, which leads to the lake, situated between the noble cliffs of
Sargent's ^^t. on the W, and Mt. Pemetic on the E., with the Bubble
Mts. on the N. The banks of tiiis lake furnish the most beautiful pros-
jiects on the island, with rare combinations of the charms of mountain-
waters and mountaiii-cliils. The lake is 2 M. long, and A M. wide, and

aflbrds good trout-hshing.

CHIEKN iMT.

Jimtte Ji.5. 305

ry v^etly,
he rolling
ami on a
ont. The

the chief
,a,ls whieh
•ilUige, and

called the
the Tulpit
vuvler New-
,1,1 hvistliut?
vave-washeil
resembles a
by a British
igh tlie cliff,
,rm an inter-
of tlie Ileail,
,thel.),''the
with wonder-
each stretches
t), which is in

if caves in the
produced some
|g ledges. The
X Hidl's Cove
^xrbor, is a neat
Marie Therese
J, Condillac, to
In 1785 she
■goire xmtil her
I fine view is
,out 8 M. wide,

"the
ranee, — ^'"^

^ road passing
lie road to the '
1 noble cliffs of
Lh the Bubble
[beautiful pros-
Is of luountain-
M. wide, and

Eagle Lake (so named by F. E. Church, the artist) is 2.^ >r. \V. of Bar
Harbor, and is reached by a path h.'avii)g the road near Green Mt. It is
'2 M. long, with (Inen Ml. on the K., Sargent and the BuhhU; Mts. on the
S. and S. W., and the bold jieak of Pcnietic nn the S. There are pretty
sand-beaches on the shores, and tlie ascent of Mt. Pcvictic may bo made
from the S. end. There are many trout in these calm and transparent
waters.

* Green Mt. is near Bar Harbor, from whicli a road leads to the snmmit
in 4 M. There is a small hotel on the sun, nut, where acconimotlations for
the niglit maybe obtained. ''The view from Green Mt. is delightful.
No other peak of the same height can be found on the Atlantic coast of
the U. S., from Lubec to the llio Grande, nor from any other point on
the coast can so fine a view be obtained. The Itoumlless ocean on the one
side contrasting with high mts. on the otlier, and along the shore numer-
ous islam Is, ap])eaiing like gems set in li(|uid jtearl, form the most promi-
nent features in the scene. White sails dotted over the water glide slowly
along. We know not what view in natuie can be finer than this, where
the two grandest objects in nature, high mts. and a limitless ocean,
occupy the horizon. The name of Eden is truly appropriate to this beau-
tiful place." 20 M. out on the ocean is seen Mt. Desei't Hock, with its
lighthouse bearing a tixed white liglit. In the W. are the nunu'rous mts.
of the island, with bright lakes interspersed, while the Camden Mts. are
in the distance. It is said that Katalidin is sometimes visible in the re-
mote N, (100 M. away). Frenchman's Bay, with its many islands, and
the Gouldsborough Mts. beyond, is outspread on the E. It is claimed
that Mt, Washington has been seen from this i)oint, 140 M. W. Whittier
thus describes this view (in "Mogg Megone").

" The liprniit p'iest, who lineprs now
Oil the Hiild .Mdiiiit'iin's shruhk'S!* brow,
Thi' pniy iind ihniulc-sinittcn pile
Wliii'h nuirks iiiir till- Descit Islf,
While lin/.iiiff III! thu sceiu-n bclnw,
May hall' lurfe'it the (IreniiiH ot'tuiiiie.

Tar eastward o'er the lovely bay,
riiiobsc'ot's clusteied wigwams lay ;

Beneath the westward tiirninfr eye
A thousand wooded islands lie,—
Cieinsj of the waters ! — with curh hue
Of brightness set in ocean's blue.

There sleep Plaeentia's proup. — and there
Piire Breteaux marks the hour of prayer.

And there, beneath the sea-worn cliff,

On which the Father's hut is seen.

The Indian stays his roi'kiiif; skiff,

Anil in'er< the heniloek-lioiijilis between,

ILilttremMinj:, iis he seeks to look

I'lKiii the ,Ies '"it's Cross and Book.

'I'liere, L'liMiiiiily ajjainst ihe bky

The Dark Isles' rear their summits hlg.' ;

And DesiTt Rock, abrupt and bare,

Lifts its prav turrets in the iiir.

Seen fnim afar, like siime stronghold

Built by the nceiin-kinps of old :

And, f:iiiit as smoke-wreath white and thin

Swells in the north vast Katulidin ;

And wanderin<,' fiom its marshy feet

The broad I'eiiobsoot comes to meet

And mingle with his own bright bay."

Newpoi't Mt. is near the water, and commands a noble view of " the
Very many sliadowy mountains and the resounding sea." The ascent is
made from the Schooner Head road. Most of the other mts. have been
ascended and furnish tine views, while the summit of Kebo (J hr. from
liar Harbor) affords a charming prospect at sunset.

30G RoxUe45.

SOMES' HOUND.

f .

\> i

., )

^41 li

S. W. Harbor and Somes' Sound.

Besules the liotds at the Harbor tliero are hir},'o hibster-pucking works
near the steamboat wliarf. <i M. S. W. is the ceh'lcate^l .SV« Wall, a
ridge of harge stones tlirowii up by the sea, 1 M. loiiir, l.O tt. liigl., and of
great width. 5 M. W. is Srctl Con:, a small harbor near a hike which is
4 M, long and very narrow, under the spurs of Western Mt. L(niu Lake
is 2^ M. N. W. from S. W. Harbor, and extends for .several miles Itetweeii
Jieach and Western Mts. Dennint/'s Lake li»'s about 3 M. from the
Harbor, and is i M. long, with Dog Mt. on one shore and tlic imposing
ytorm Clilf on Beecli Mt. on the otluM'. These 3 large lakes are said to be
well stocked with lish, and by the near api)roaeh of the mts. they atroitl
line scenic eifects.

Beech Mt. is often ascended from S. W. Harbor (a mountain road runs
nearly to the summit). The view embraces Denning's Lake, Somes'
Sound, the eastern group of mts., and Frenchman's liay, on the E., with
Long Lake, Western Mt., Blue Hill, Penol)scot Bay, aii<l the Camden
Hills, on the W. The ocean-view on the S. is of limitk.-s extent. The
bleak summit of Dog Mt. and the easily ascended Flying Mt. command
extensive prospects over SoTues' Sound on the E. Sargent's Mt. and Mt.
Mansell are sometimes asci led from this i)oint.

Somes' Sound is an aim of the sea which extends up between the mt.
ranges, for 7 M., with a width at its entrance of 2 M. The scenery here
has been likened to the Delaware Water Gap, to the Hudson Iliver at the
Highlands, and to Lake George. This deep liord is a favorite sailing
ground, althouglx caution is necessary on account of the sudden gusts
which sweej* down from the mts. " Somes' Sound enables us to sail
through the heart of the best scenery on tlie Ishuul." The Sound is well
seen from Clark's Point, at S. W. Harbor, and a road leads near its shores
to Somesville, at the N. end. After passing the gateway between Dog
Mt. on the 1. and Mt. Mansell on the r., a broader expanse is entered,
with Beech Mt. on the 1., and Green Mt. and the eastern group on the r.
Fcrnald's Point is on the W. shore, and is a pleasant spot, with grassy
lawns and a cold, clear spring. This was the seat of the Jesuit settlement
of St. Sauveur, and Father Biard's Spring is still sliown. There are
picturesque clitfs on the mts. in the vicinity, and Flying Mt. rises on the
W. Somesville (Somes' Tavern) is a small village prettily situated at
the head of the Sound. The central lakes and mts. are easily visited
from this jjoint, and the boating and tisliing on the Sound are much prized.
Somesville is G M. from S. W. Harbor, 8 M. from Bar Harbor, and 4 M.
from Fernald's Point.

In 1603 Ileiiii IV. of France granted to the Sieur de Monts all the American
shores between tin; luosent sites of Pliil;i(lel])hia and Quebec, under the name of
Acadia. While De Monts au«l Chauiplaiu were exploring llieir v;u-it duniuin, they

roKTLAND TO LKWI8T0N AND liANGOR. JtouU- 4U. 307

ug -works
; Wall, a
ft, aixl of
which is

s liitwcen

t'roui the

, imposing

i sai«l ^o ^-"^
they atToi-d

\ Toad vuns
tke, Somes'
lie E., witli
■he Cumileu
xtent. The
;t, coumuvnil
Mt. aiKl Mt.

..gen themt.
scenery here
lUver at the
orite sailing
sudden gusts
ss \is to sail
ovmd is well
,c-ar its shores
K'tween Uog
le is entered,
jup on tlie r.
■ with grassy
uit settlement
L There are

. rises on the

iy situated at
easily visited

, mucli priced.

•bor, and 4 M.

\\ the American
lor the name ol
Lt douuiin, tlie>

saw the peaks of this island, hifh was cnlled Montt^ Denrrts hy f'hninplniii. Tlio
jiricsts BianI ami Masse assuii,. I too iiiiwli anthuiify at tiic Port U'i\,il colony,
aiiil were sternly rel>iiU< il l»y its cliicl", I'ntriiicnurt, who said, " It is my part Ut
nilt' yctii (»n (sartli, aii«l yuns only to fiuidt- nic to heavrn." Tlit>v tlin'atcnctl to
lav till' rolnny iimlcr intt nlii't, ;iml rnfritironrl s son so r»'siMitr<i tliis that they
lift I'ort Uiiyal on a slii|) sent lioni lianr'c hy Mailanu' ili- (iurirli'villc, with
otiirr Jesuits mi huari. Tlw niissinn liami sailrd to thr !S "Wrtlicn diH-
coviTod that we were nrar till' nIioic df Mt. !)is<rt,aii i-1 uid wliirh iho savages

call IVmrtif Wt; retiu urij tliaiil<s to (iod, rlovatiiii,' the Cioss, and sin^'in^

]>raise.s with the holy Sanirui' ot'tli'' Mass. Wr iinned tin- pl.ui' and liarhor St.
Sanveur." (Fathkh Hiaiid.) Hist' .ians ditrer as 'o tin- duration of the settle-
nn'iit, but it was llnally liroUcn uji hy Sanund Ary'' ^hncrnor of Virvcinia, who
surinisi'd the jdaci' in a tiiiir uf profound pi-arc. II s U-gun sliip cnfcii'l the
Sound "as fleet as an arrow," and took the Kremdi vessel after some cannonnd-
iii;,'. Father Hu Thet having' been shot down at u jiiui. The Kiij;lish now jilun-
dered the villaj?e, liiokc down the Jesuits' crosses, and carried siicli of tlio
colonists as they coiiid lind, captives to V'ir^'inia.' .MtlioicMi granted by l.ouia
XIV. to Coiidillac in Kiss, the i-l,niil was not resettlcil until the arrival of Soincs
in 1701. Ill 1702 Mt. Desert was i^ranted to (i-tv. l?ern.inl, of Mass., from whom
it was conliscated during; the llevolution because he w.is a royalist, in 17S'), k
of the island was granted by Mass. to Sir John Hcrnard (t lie Governor's son), ana
soon utter the greater jiart of it was ^iveii to the (ireyoiix s, heirs of ( Dndilhie.

Mt. Desert to Maehiaspnrt.

After leaving Bar Harbor tlu' steamer cros.ses Fremlniian's T!ay and
rounds the bold Sihnodic Point. The d-ep fiords of (ioiiklsliorough and
SteuVien are seen on the N., with the peninsulas wiiieh here run out from
the mainland, and Little Menan Island is passed, with its lighthou.<?e,
109 ft. high. The maritime village of Millbridijc (Atlantic House) is
reached about 3 hrs. after leaving Mt. Desert. The steamer then crosses
Nurraguagus Bay to Jonesport (Bay View House), a peninsular to\vn
devoted to fishing and the coasting trade. Englishman's Bay and Machias
Bay are now crossed, and Machias2)ort (Deering House) is reached (by 5
o'clock, P. M. ). Tliis is a shipbuilding villagi;, with a railroad 8 M. long
running into the lumber di.strict of Whitneyville.

ULAChieiB (Eastern J fotel ; Clare's Hotel) is a manufacturing town of
2,530 inhabitants, on tlie Machias River, N. of the port. It was fought
for by the Engli.sh and French in the 17th century, and finally settled in
1703. The British war- vessel, the " Margaretta," was captured here in
1775, and Sir Robert Collier's fleet was repulsed in 1777 hy the militia and
the Passamaquoddy Indians.

46. Portland to Lewiston and Bangor.

Trains leave the Maine Central station on arrival of the Eastern Railroad traina
from Boston, some of the cars from Boston iiassing over on to the rails of the
Bangor line. One train daily runs to Bangor, and tliree trains to Lewiaton.

1 LEicarbot, De Monts' Hupiienot chaplain. Is the only historian who jiistlflpg ArjraH's
attack. This gentleman was a Icndinff member of 7/'Or'/rR dc lion Ton),.*, devoted to hunt-
ing, fishing, and feasting. All visitors to Mt. Desert should join this order (in spirit), and a
series of scrnmhies over the mta. will render feasting poisibfe, even with the Arugal fare of
the island hotels.

l.\

308 JioiUe40.

LKWISTON.

I* i m*'.
It .'

t: »

II :t

l)il

t| tt!

llM !

Tlie train runs throupli the funning towns of eastern Cunilteilund
f'onnty tor ^\ hours, i)iissini,' the .stations. iUnnlicrlaud, Wnlnut Hill,
iiraij, anil y!cw iiluuccskr. At JJnucille Junction thu Grand Trunk
Kail way is crossed.

Station, Auburn (Kim House; Maine Hotel), a iirosi)erous little <.'ity
just across the river from Lewiston. Auhurn hecanio a city in IWJD, and
has a population of (i,lt;(), with many lii^'c Khoe-fadories and other
works. The Anilioscojftjin County hnildin.LTs are located here.

Station, Lewiston (* /a- Witt I/nnsr, fVontiu},' on the I'ark, $3.00 u
day; LeAvislon Uoii.tr), a nianufa(;turing city of recent growth, having
i:{,()02 inlial)itants, with 13 Itanks and a daily pajjcr. The new * City
Hall (finished in ls7ii) is one of the lineht muiuciiial buildings in New
England, and has a lofty anrl grae(;ful tower suiniounted by a s]>ire. It
fronts on tlu^ i'ark, near the De Witt House. A large water-power is
derived from the f ills on the Androscoggin Iliver, and is utilized mainly
l)y cotton and woollen mills. Over $6,000,000 are invested in these
•works, which turned out $33,750,0(K) worth of goods between LSOl and
1SG7. Nearly 4,000 hands are employetl in these nulls, which run "208,000
spindles, and turn out yearly 275,000,000 yards of cotton cloths, OoO.OOO
yards of woollen goods, and 2-3,000,000 bags. Many French Canadians
are employed here, and the nundjer of young people in the city is ipiite
notable. The bridge leading to Auburn commands a fine view of the
Lewiston Falls, where the river breaks over a ledge of blackened gneiss
and mica schist rocks. The natural fall is over 40 ft., and has been in-
creasetl to 50 ft. by a strong granite dam which is braced against the
rocky islets above the ledge. The water led otf by the factory canals
seems scarcely to be missed in the broad masses which thunder over the
ledges.

A terrilile legend is attached to these falls, to the effect that early in the last
century a whiti' lienuit li\eil on one of tlie islands above. The Intiians feared
and .sliunned liiin, and plotted his destruction. The liernut learned tlieir i>l.ins,
and set a liwlit, on the evening' appointed for the attack, at a point l)eh)W tlie falls.
M Indians (so many from tlieir ^^reat fear of him) drojiped down in tlieir canoes
by ni'^lit, intending' to land Ir' the camp-lire on his island. But seein;; the lii;ht
below the falls (liis (jwn lire hiwing been ]iut out), they steered conlidcntly toward
it, -ul when it was too late, fiaind their canoes in the wild current over the falls.
The legend says that not one of them escaped with life from that fearful plunge.

Bates College is back of Lewiston, and has three commodious new
buildings. It was organized in 1804, is under the care of the Free-Will
Baptist Church, and has a Theological School attached. There are 12
instructors and 103 students, with about 7,000 volumes in the library.

After leaving Lewiston the train passes through the farming towns of
Greene, Leeds (where the Androscoggin Division crosses the present route),
Monmouth, and Winthrop (Winthrop House). This is a pleasant village,
near the Cobossee Coutee Pond, which is 9 M. long and 1 M. wide, and

lUiUNHWICK.

RvHtc 47. ao'j

d Hill,

I Trunk

^c.y, luiti

1,1 other

$ 3.00 a
Ij, havinf?
ew * City
fl in New
spin'. It
1-. power ifi
ml miiiuly
I in Uioso
I 1801 and
run -208,000
1,3, 000,000
I Canatliaus

ity is 'l^i>^«
■low of the
ened p;nciss
i;is been in-
against the
•tovy canals
or over the

ly ill the last
lulians IVartHl
1 ilu'ir plans,
^low the falls,
tlieiv canoes
Axv^ tl.e li:4ht
McutlV toward
,)ver the falls.
Iirful plunge.

Iiiodious new
no Free-Will
hiere are 12
L' Uhrary.
kng towns of
resent route),
[asant village,
|M. wide, and

in dotted with picturesque islnnd.s. W. of the village is Mt. ris^^'nli, from
whicli the White Mts. are ncen. ('h).sn to Winthrop, on either side, ure
the N< ith and South Ponds, while the blue liill.s of Dixmont nmy he seen
in the N. E.

Station, Rerdjield (Craig House), tlic seat of the Maine Wosloyan
Seminary and Fenude College, which wa.s incorporated in 1823, and hn.s
5-000 students (both .se.xes). Stages run to Angnsta, Karniington,
Fayett'-, antlChesterville. Station, llilijrmle (Railmad House), in a tnwn
wliose sni'fa(!o is largely of)inposed of lakes. ]5esi(h's the long Snow's
Pond, which lies near the track (on the r. ), there are noveral others, ono
of which i.s between iJelgrade, llonu^, and Vienna, and covers 2r> square
mills This lake is quite pictures(|ue, with irregular and l)r(»ken shores,
an 1 several islands. Stations, N. licl'/nufr, \V. ^^V/^'^•^t7A', and Water-
ville, where the A»ig\ista Division of the M. C. Railway uintes with the
present routi; (licwiston Division).

NVfttervillo to Bangor, see Route 47.

47. Portland to Augusta and Bangor.

Portlantl to Ban^'or, i:!S M. Two throii>,'h trains tlaily, ami 4 trains daily to
Augusta ((ill M.). 'I'liis is the favorite mute fnim I'ortlaml to tlie Kast, pa.ssiii;^
throu^'ii tlm valley of 1 lie Kennchcc, and l>y liriniswick, (ianlincr. Ilullowell, and
Augusta. The trains on the i'.astcrii li. U. (lioiite ;i7) from Boston make close
connections at I'onlaml witli this line, and some of the curs pass o.'. 'on to its
rails. Time is given at the Tortland station for diinier.

After leaving Portland, the train pa.sses over the suburban i)lains, and
stops at WnotJfortVs and Wrsthrmth. The latter is a jioinilous town,
with G,0."30 inliabitants (in 3 villages), and has large i)aper nuinnfactories
and works for cainung corn, lobsters, &c. Crossing now the farming
town of Cumberland, the line intersects the Grand Trunk Railway at
Yarmoidh (restaurant at the station), and then passes on to Freeport, a
village at the head of Casco Bay, devoted to shipbuilding. The rural
station of Oah Hill is ne.xt i)assed, and then the train enters Brunswick
[Bowdoin House ; Tontine Hotel ; restaurant in the station).

P(>)epscot was settled in 1628, under a patent from Pl>nnonth, and was soon
assi;,'ni'(l to M*js., under who.se i)r()teotion a flourishing colony settled here. It
was destroyed by the Indians in l(i7<t, and afterwards tlie territory was thought of
certain local ehief.s. Tlie conflicting claims hetween the I'lymouth j'atent and
tills later purchase gave rise to the most long and vexatious lawsuit in the annals
of Maine. The proprietors built Fort George at l'e,|ei>seot, and in consideration
of £400 from the iirovince and exemption from taxes for 4 years, they uiaintaindl
at the colony a clergyman, a schoolmaster, an<l a sergeant with 15 .soldiers. Tin;
fort was on the W. side of the Androscoggin River, at the Lower Fulls, and was
called the key of Western Maine, since it guarded the favorite pass of the Ana-
sagunticook Indians. It was erected in 1715, after the town had been destroyed
a second lime (in lOStO). In 1722 Fort George was flanked, ami the town was once
more ruined by the revengeful Indians. The Anasagunticooks migrated to iSt.
Francis later in the century, and the district was soon reoccupied by the Kngllsh,
and in 1737 received the name of Brunswick.

(

310 Route 47.

BOWDOIN COLLEGE.

B- ■

'. » M

I ^

(i»,

If .

Bnmswick is a i)rnsperou.s town at the falls and the liead of tide-water
on tlic Andr().s"oggia River, and is built on two broad, parallel streets. Tt
has 4,727 inhabitants, with 4 banks, several chnrrlies, a weekly paj'cr,
and nunuTOUs lundier-niills. The river here faiib 41 ft. in 3 pitches, af-
fording a large water-power, part of which is used by the Cabot cotton-
mills.

Bowdoin College is located on an elevated plain near the railways'ra-
tion. This institution was incoqiorated in 1794, and opened in 1802, with
an endowment fruni tlie Ht;ite of 5 townships nnd .S IS',!'^^" ^ yc-ir for 5
yea s. It has al })resent 29 instructors and 104 students, exclusive of 70
students in the niedi(;al department, with a lil>rary of about 34,000 vol-
umes. There are good collections of shells, minerals, and other objects.
The conspicuous building witli two spires, which stands near the centre
of the line, contains the handsomely frescoed chapel, the museuju of the
MrJne fiistorical l-jociety, and the gallery of ]iaintinps. Nearer the sta-
tion is a large and attractive Memorial Hall built of stone, and the Medi-
cal School is across the roa<l, and near the Congregational Church. The
pine-groves in the rear of the college are widely known for tlieir sond^re
beauty, and afford favorite walks for the students.

The Poinknn dnUn'ii of Pniiitivnx. Pierre Batidduin was a ITu^Mienot gentle-
man from La Uoetielle, \v>io laiKied at Portland in Kisy. His Ki"'i"ds(n, .James
Bowdoin. was a iVieml of l'raid\lin, an ardent jiatriot, ami Gov. of Mass., 17So-fi.
James IJowdoin tlie son of the last-named, was a seliolar and diplomatist, and at
his death be left to this eolk'KC (i.OOO acres of land, S(>,0(,0 in money, and his ex-
tensive library, iiliilosoi>hieal aiijiaratiis, and ])i('ture-gallery. Some of the jiaint-
inj,'s have been resiored with (inestioiialile effect.

2, Venii '. eciuijtiiin^' (Jniiid, after Titinn ; .'!, Continence of 8eii)io, K. Foussin
(perhaps only a line <ojiy) ; .0, (i, Sftidio scenes; 10, fSaekinu' a tov.n, Flemish
Seho'i'i ; 11, Italian scene, I'i'vihroine ; 12, Surt^eon and )>atient, dttrihtited (n
Brninrer ; IS, i^leepin;; Cui>i(l, I'ltpil nf Cvido Jtmi; l.'j, Italian landscape, N.
Benihcm ; 11, 1«>, liandseapes ; 17, Infant -John the Bajitist, Stella ; 18, DuTch
I>airy W(tmen, Flcuiisli Sellout; * l'.», Inteiior of a ehureli, Flevnt<h School; 21,
roiiltry, V/oH'' !:oeter ; 22, Heven Ages of Man, Iloaarth ; 28, Oltl Tower, Hogarth;
24, llnins, Uoijtrrth ; 2.'>, The, Women at the Seiaildire, .S/mo« I'ouet (painted on
copper); 2S, View on the Caiiijia<,'na ; oO, James Madison, dUtiertC Stuart; 32,
Artillery, Wouvernian^; *'*Tlie (iovernor of (iibrallar, J'an /)»//iT (one of his best
portraits ; the e<)lle.-> has refnsed ,S;U),0(i(l for it); 'Sh, The Head of Jolui the Bap-
tist in a charger, after Ciihlo lleni ; 'Mi, The Saviour, eoyieit from a jaetine in the,
Jiomaii C'ltneomhi' ; ;{7, Jlirabeau ; 'Mi, Adoration of the iMagi, after Rubens ; 'V.),
l)es(t;nt from t;.ie Cross ; 40, John in th<! \Vildeniess ; 44, * Holy Family, either
hji I\aph(al, or a f.iie eopn ; 45, Ti'anslation of Klijah ; 40, Simon and the ehihl
Jesus in the Temple, po.ssibhi by Rubens; 50, A Scene in tlie Infptisition, Fle)iii.-ih
Eihool ; b\, Venus and Adoius, after Titian ; l>?>, Cleoi)atra ; 5(j, *The Angel deliv-
ering iVtcr from jirison ; 57, I'ianaand Kndymion ; 5S, Venus receiving gifts from
Core^, attrifiuted to J'liliens ; 5'.», Fox and Plieasfuit ; (iO, Combat of Hyena and
Dogs; 02, Adoration of (he Magi, Domenieo Frcia^o; (i;i, Esther and Aliasuenis,
Franen; 04, Marine view, Flemish ; 05, Discovery of Achilles, Tenters; 00, Lan-l-
8eni»e, Duteli ; 07, TiirUish sea-light, Mtnujhiti ; 08, Morning on the const,, I.nroi.i ;
70, Cattl(!, after Paid Putter; 70-^'.\ Portraits of the Bowdoins, who olaimt il
descent from Baudoin, the Count of Flanders and Crusader ; 02, Storm at sea ; 9'A,
Landseajie ; 07, President Harrison ; OS, 00, Italian scenes ; 100, View of Messina ;
102, Henry Clay ; 104, The DuUcof Cnmbcrland, victor at (/ullodeii : 105. Pilgrim ;
100, The Walk' to Kmmaus : 1()7, Peter repentant ; lio. 111, Venetian view.s ; 112.
Christ bearing the Cross ; 110, 117, French scenes ; 110, Italian landscape ; 120, A

AUGUSTA.

Route 4'^. 311

ie-water
eets. Tt
,y payer,
Lches, af-
t cotton-

Iways'fa-
802, with
car for 5
nve of 70
4^000 vol-
>r objects,
the centre
uui of the,
•er the sta-
L the xMe<li-
.n-cli. The
iciv sombre

lenot gentlc-
idscii, .Tiuues
ass., i:So-«-
latist, and at
, aiui his <'X-
of the i>aint-

f)V.n, Vlemia^i
(iltrihuted to
aiidscapc, N.
L ; 18. Dutch
1/i School ; 21,
^Y^•l•, Ilog'irth:
it (pahited on
Stud it ; 3'2,
i„. of his best
„hu the Bav-
j.icfH/p ill "'"
•r HvbcHs; '■^'■K
.Family, ci""'';
laud I'.iP child
dtiou, Vlenn^h
le Augfl dchv-
:iti^ {,'itts froin
;,f Hyena and
lid Ahasvu-vns,
,-s; W>. I'and-

who claiin(d
Inn at sea ; 9;i.
•xv of Messina ;
: 105, rilgrini;
Jin vipws; U'2'
ls*ai>c ; 120. A

View on the Rliine ; 122, 123, Lan(lscai>e3 ; 126, IMshop Mcllvaine ; 127, 128, AftVc-
tii'ii and Lovp ; l.'?I, Pre-^idont Pirn't' : IM:!, Portrait, CitpJc}/.

I'ranUliii Pierco, 14th Prosidoiit of tlip United States, was in the Bowdoin rlaas
of 1824, and in that of 1825 Henry W. Longfellow and Nathaniel Hawthorne
were elassniat^rs. In the ailjieent village, .J. H. C. Ahh itt, the liistorian, and
G. P. Putnam, tlie veteran pnlilislier, were horn. The Presidency of the Collego
in now liehL by J. L. Chamberlain, a suecessful general during the {Secession
War, an<l (Jov. of Maine, 18(;7- 71.

Railroads run from Brunswick to Lewiston, Farniington, and Bath.

Beyond Bninswick the main line turns N., crosses the Androscoggin,
and follows the r. bank of the Kennebec River (seats on the r. preferable)
tlironpli tlie farming town.s of Topsh.am and Bowdonihnm, which have lost
1,100 inhabitants .«ince IS,')!). Stations, liichrnnniJ, a busy shipbuildin-;
village near the site of Fort Richmond (erected in 171U), 'S', iJardiner, and
Gardiner (t/o^«.wn^ House; Evans House). This is a city of 3,103 in-
habitants, with 4 banks, 9, weekly papers, 7 churches, and several small
factories. The chief industries rT Gardiner are in sawing lumber in sum-
mer ami ice in winter, and imr > i ice-houses maybe seen on the banks
of the Kennebec. The Com ; contains f) acres, ami is situatetl on
Church iiill (125 ft. above the river), which commands a pleasant view.
The .slopes of this hill are lined with residences, while the stores are on
the rivervvard plain, and the factories are along the water-powtn' given by
the Cohhoseo Contee River. This place was settled in 1760, and was
named in honor of the fanuly which owned its territory.

Station, Hallowell [Halloitrll House, near the station), a quiet little
city on the banks of tht Kennebec, with 3,008 inhabitants, 4 banks^ a
weekly paper, and 6 churchos. It has a few small fneiories, but is chiefly
noted for the extensive rpmrries of white and light gray granite, back of
the city, in which 250 men are emplo;>, n\, 900,000 y-'.-ds of floor oil-cloth,
and 2,500,000 yards of cotton cloths are made yearly here. Hallowell
was first permanently settled about 1751, and was named in honor of its
chief proprietor.

Augusta {C<my House, near the station; Mansion House; Aufjusta
Hotel ; Central House), the capital of the State of Maine, is 2 M. X. of
Hallowell, and at the head of sloop navigatic n. The city is built on both
sides of the Kennebec, and contains 7,815 inhabitants, with 5 baidcs, a
daily and 5 weekly ])apers, 9 churches, an<l 3 Masonic lodges. The situ-
ation of Augusta is beautiful, l)eing on and around the high hills which
border the river. About ^ M. above the town is the great Kennebec
Dam, 584 ft. long, and 15 ft. above high-water mark. Besides improving
tlie navigation of the river above, this dam forms an immense water-
power, estimated at 3,700 net hoi-se-power. It was built in 1830 -7, at
an expense of 8 300,000, and has been jnirchased by A. k W. Sprague,
the R. I. manufacturers, who liave erected large works io the vicitaty,
and have still others in praspect. The commercial part o. Augtista lies

www

312 Route 47.

AUGUSTA.

^V,^

,7-

I ?

along the r. bank of tlie river, on Water St., wliile the heights above are
occupie(l by mansions and jxiblic buildings. The handsome Congrega-
tional Church, of granite, is on the verge of the ridge, and not far from
the High School IniiWing Farther S., on State St. (which runs alorg
the heights), are tlr^ fine granite buildings of Kennebec County, and be-
yond these is the * Dtate House. This t-legant structure is built of white
gianite, mostly derived from ledges of the same material on which it is
founded. It if situated on a high hill, which commands a beautiful view,
and is suirounded by well-ornamented grounds. It was built in 1828 - '51,
with a solidity which is rarely encountered in American public works,
and its prin(ri]ial external features consist of a rustic basemeiit, support-
ing a colonnade of 10 moiKililhic columns of the Doric order, wl.ile above
all is a graceful donu . The Rotunda is first entered, — a neat hall sup-
ported by 8 columns, and draped with 80 stonu-woru an<i })attle-torn
flags wl: ch were borne by the Maine regiments in tlie War for tlic Union.
li is siid that wot a flag was lost by tlie Maine troops in the war. The 82
pennons of the eavalry and artillery .';re arranged on the side-walls, while
in the adjacent loblnes arc 10 rebel flags whicii were taken in action >)y
the troops of Maine. Under the chaiidelier in th" centre of the hall is a
neat little fountain, whose basin is stocked with trout. On the walls are
portraits of Go^-ernor Pownal, Sir William Pepperell, Senator Rufus King,
Cen. Knox, and Presidents Washmgi' ti ai'd Lincoln. On one side of the
hall is a flue bust of Gov. Chamberlain, by Jackson. From the second
story access may be gained lo ilie halls of tlie Senate and House of Repre-
sentatives, and on the S, side of the tliird story is the State Library, con-
sisting of 23,000 volumes. 3till higher up is the dome, from whose sum-
mit (easily accessible * a fi.ie view is enjoyed. On the S. is seen Hallowell,
over broad reaches of tiie silvery Kennebec ; on the W. are high, wooded
hills ; on the N. is the Avhite city of Augusta divided by the river ; and
on the E. is the Kennebcf^, with the U. S. Arsenal on the meadows l)e-
yond, and the Insane Asylum on the heights.

The State Inmne Asijlum, is a noble granite building on the heights E.
of the rjver, and situat' d in extensive ornamental grounds. It cost
f^ 300,000, and accommodates 300 patients, many of whom lighten the
hours of their seclusion from the Avorld by working on a large farm which
pertains to the Asylum. The building is 262 ft. long, and was erected in
1850 - 52, after the destruction bv fire of the old Asylum, in which 27
patients and a keeper were burnt. Near this point is the Kennebec Arse-
nal, where the United States kee])s several thousand stand of nrms, with
many cannon and other munitions of wai-. There are several neat Ijuild-
ings here, and the grounds are by tlie river-side and are well arranged.
Tlie Asylum and Arsenal being in the E. wards of the city, are reached
by crossing the long bridge near the foot of Water St., from which are
alTorrled vkws of the slender and graceful iron raihvay-lM-i Ige.

:¥ ^

AUr.USTA.

Rovte4^. 313

its above are

ne Congrcga-

not far from

ih runs alovg

lunty, and be-

Imilt of whito

on which it i->

\)ca\itifnl view,

iltinl828-'n,
public works,

;meiit, support -

[er, wV.ile above

, neat hall sup-

an«l battle-torn

r for the Union.

he war. TheJ^2

side-walls, while

-en in action by
of the hall is a

On the walls are

lator Rufus King,

)n one side of the

Jroni the second

I House of Repre-

Late Library, con-
froni whose sum-
isseenllallowell,
are high., wooded
by the river ; and
[the meadows l»e-

i)n the heights F,.
Igrounds. It cost
Vhom ligbten the
\ large farm which
[nd was erected in
Hum. ii» which 27
lie Kennebec Arse-
,„,! of nrms, with
f.veral neat build-
.re well arranged.
1 city, are reached
, from which are
In-ilr-'--

Togus Sprinc/s are about 4 M. to the S. E., and were formerly a snin-
mer-resort of considerable local fame. In ISOG a National Asylum for
disabled volunteer soldiers was establi.shed at this beautiful plaee, at an
expense of .'$300,000. A farm of 600 acres is attached to the Asylum,
and 500 men can be accommodated here, although but 200 are now
present.

Anpusta ocenpies part nf the ancient domain of the Cushnne dan of tlie Can-
iba.s tribe of the Abenaciui nation of Indians. It '.vh.s in tlie Kennebec Patent
granted to tlie Plymontli ("olnny in KIl".', .iiid wns .si-ttlcd before l(iJt, but aban-
(loned and laid waste in l(l7(i (Kin;,' I'Jiiliji's War). In 171G a stone loii was built
here, and aViandoned in 17-4 (Lovewdl's War), and in 1754 Fort We.stern was
built on the E. bank of the KcuMcbec River. Tliis was u stroii;,' fort, surroumled
by pali.saded outworks ;.,Mniislied with towers, and in the autumn of 177.) it w.as
occupied by IJcuediet Arnold, who cros.se<l the wilderness to Quebec with 1,100
men (Xew-Englanders and \'ir^iiuans). Ilisconimand rested here for some time,
and made batteanx in wliieh the Kennebec was ascenchid to a point alu.ve Mos-
cow. Ahni^' porta;,'e then tcok the forces to the De.id River, whirh was a.'-cended,
,(«nd fearful hardships by liun.^er, cold, anllexpo.-^u^e, t(,' its head-waters. AiiottuT
{lortage carried them to hake .Megantic (in Canada), whence the C'haudiere River
was descended, and Arnold's little army of gaunt and ragged heroes arose like an
apparition from the .savage southern wilderness before the walls of 'Quebec.

Augusta pro.-ipercd in the arts of jieaee until the outbreak of the Secession
War, in 18(J1, after whi<'h it beanie a central rcn<h'zrn\i!^ for the tn>oi>s of the
Rtatt^ Among the regiments which forme 1 and ene.imiied liere was the Sth
Maii;e, which fonglit in South Cirolina and Florida, lost !•') men at Drury's Rlulf,
S:j at Wier's Bottom, and ino ;it Cold Harbor, bearing mcnwhilc the colors pre-
sented to them by tin; Governor of .Maryland, at Aunapolu. Also the i'th Maine,
which fought in S. Carolina, stormed the Morris Islaml l)attcrics at dawn, and
took the colors of the 21st S. C, lost 100 men in the rer'Ulse from Fort Wagner,
and was decimated at CoM IIar"'n'-. Also thi! famous i >t .Maine Cavalry, which
fought at Brandy Station, Aldie, Luray, .Middleliurgli, and in numerous raids
and outpost nttacks, lo.sing many hun<lred men.

Augusta is !>8 M. from Kittery ; "l tJ .M. from Fastpor ; 'J07 M. from Fort Kent ;
50 M. from Bangor; 5'J M. from Portlainl ; and ISJ y from Pres(jue Isle. The
State, of which it is the capital, ha< an area greater • .lan that of the other five
New England States combined, but is slowly decrc ising in jiopulation, having
suffered an actual loss of 7,.S7i.' inhabitants betwtien isiii) and 1x70.

Steamers run between Augustii, Portluid, and P /ston, semi-weekly, stopping at
the river-landings.

Stages run from Augu.sta to W. Gardiner, Litcl .ii Id, Web.ster. and Lisbon Falls;
to Winthrop and Wayne ; to .Mancliester, Read' eld, Mt. \'eriion, Fayette, Vienna,
Chesterville, ami Farmington ; to Relgradi , Kome, and \ew Sharon ; to S. Vas-
salboro, China, Albion, I iiity, Troy, Di.sUiont, Newburg, ami (Jangor ; to
Wind.sor, Palermo, Liberty, Montville, X. Scarsmont, Belmont, and Belfast (412
-M., f .re )J3.00) ; also across Liiieohi County to lloekland and Daniariseottu.

At Augusta the line crosses the Kennebec on a light and graceful iron
> idge, and follows the beautil'id river for over 20 M. (seat on the 1. side
referable). Station, Vassalhuro (sniull inn), a inannfaeturiiig village in
a large and prosperous town, which is ph'ji.santly diversitied by hill.'i, and
ponds, and has on the E. (Jhina Lukt\ which is about 10 M. long and
ati'ords good fishing. The lake is almost cut in two by projecting points
nt the Narrows, and empties by the Sebasticook River. S. China is a
pretty village at the S. end of the lake, with a tavern, a church, and ;J
:^tores.

14 R>nUe/,7.

WATEBVILLE.

L'i

^ I

;? *

Beyond Viissall)oro, the train jtasses tlirongli Wiiislow, and crosses the
Kennebec near its confluence with the Scbasticook. Tlie ruins of Fort
Halifax are seen on the bluff point just S. of the union of the rivers,
This fort was oneof a chain erected by Mass. to ilefend the Maine coast
from French raids. It was built by Gov. Shirley in 1 754, and garrisoned
by 130 men, until its abandonment, after the Peace of Paris (17»)3).
Large Indian settlements formerly occupied the intervales in this vicinity,
and as early jus lOTf) envoys of Massachusetts came here to detach the
tri))e from King Pliiliji's Confederation, — an unsuccessful attempt.

Station, V/aterville (two inns), a place of nearly 5,000 inhabitants,
near the Ticonic Falls on the Kennebec River. The village is built along
randding streets on a broad plain above the river, and has some handsome
residences. Near the station are the buildings of Colby University
(founded in 1820), which has C instructors and 52 students, with a library
of 6 - 8,000 volumes. This institution is under the care of the Baptist
Chiirch, and besides the usual oarrackdike dormitories of American
colleges it has two handsome new stone buildings. On one side is the
new granite Scientilic Departmeni, while the other wing of the line is
occupied by a tine stone Iniilding with a tower. The lower part of this
editice is occupied by the library, while the upper part is consecrated as
a Memorial Hall. On one side of this hall is a lino monument by Mil-
niore, representing a colossal dead V ■., "anstixed by a spear, with an
agonized face, and with his paw restii;g on the slucld of the Union (an
a<la])tation of Thorwaldseu's Lion at Lucerne). Below this large and
beautiful Avork is a tablet (also of marble) containing tlie names of 20
former stu<lents who fell in the War for the Union, with the inscription,

" Fratrilms rtiani in cineribu-i c;iri> quoruin noiniiia intra inrisa sunt, qniquf
ill ncllo rivili ]m) n'ii>nl>!i(;c inteKritatc ((-'cidLTUiit, liane Tabulam posuenmt
iiluniiii." T)n» Mfniori.il Ilnll is to no dccoratod witli pictures.

A l>ranch railniiul runs from VVaterville to Skowhegiiii (sec Route 42), and at
tliis jioiiit the ]>c\vist<iu division of tlie .Maine Central Railway (Route 40) unites
witii the present route (tlic Aii^nsta Division.) 8t.aj;es run hence to many rural
villages.

In running from Waterville to Bangor the train passes Kendall's Mills,
or Ju'irfUhl, Station, and soon after the track of the Skowhegari Division
turns oflf to the 1., and the present route (Bangor Division) crosses the
Kennebec on a liigh bridge. Stations, Clinton and Jinrnhnvi.

Vrmv. Bunihaiu tiic Relf.ist P'vfsiou of tiio Maine Central Railway runs S.E. lo
the lity of PilfuM (.sec Route 4>), in '.^b M. ]iassin;4 throuy;li the farming towns of
Walilo County, Unity, Tliorndike, i<rool<s, and Waldo.

Beyond Burnliam the line follows tlie Scbasticook Kiver to the .station,
Pttlyh.hl (Lanccy House, daily stage to Palmyra, IFartland, St. Albans,
Ilarnnmy, llipley, an<{ '^'.indjvivlgt) in 2u M., fare $ 1.5'). ) Stations, Detroit,
and Newport (Shaw Jh>os. \, a prosperous village o'^ th • shores of Fiast
Pond, whicli is 15 M. antnn.d and alford.-' .'oo.i il:l.r,;. The Dexter
Division of the Maine Ontral Railway runs 1^. :o L'r.vtev ( e i ''utc 43).

'mm&

.>v-:k.;*>^''

BANGOR.

R(nde47. 315

sses til ft
of Fort
e rivers,
ne ooast
arrisont'il

\ vicinity,
etacli th'^-

ipt.

hal)itaiits,
•uilt along
hanflsonie
iniversity
h a library
the Baptist

American
; side is the
the line is
part of this
isecrated as
lent by Mil-
ar, with an

Union (an

; large ami
[names of 20

inscription,

, sunt, quiqiie
In posuerunt

jC 4-), i^^^l ^^
Ite 40) miitos
[() many rural

klairs Mills,

tan Division

crosses the

iMUis S.E. i'»
liiii' towns of

[the station,

St. Albans,

)us, Detroit,

i,r.js of East

rrhe Dexter

^tttc 43).

To the S. are the liigh hills of Dixmont, and the train pas.ses on by
£. Neivport, Etna, t'armcl, and Hernwn Pond to

Eangor.

IIotelH. — " Bangor House, on the heights, §2.50-8.00 ; Penobsrot Exchange ;
Franklin Huusf ; an<l many oflii^rs.

Steamers le.ivo tri-wtM'kly (dnring the season of navigation) for Portland and
Boston, stopping at the river-ports.

Hallroads. — The Maine Central, to Portland an<l Boston, 240 M. (by Eastern
R. K.), in 11 lirs. The Enroi.ean and North American li. Fl. to St. ./ohn, 'ioftj
M., in lOj-lO hr.s. (the train leaving Bangor early in the morning arrives at !St.
John about P. M.). The Bangor and Piseata(iuis R. R. ,to Ciiiilt'onl, Gl M., in
.^i-T) hrs.

Stages run to Hampden, Frankfort, Prospect, Stockton, Scarsport, and Belfast
(30 M., tare S 2. r)0 ; leaves early, in the morning) : to Monroe ; to Ncwhurg, Dix-
mont. Troy, Unity, Albion, ami China ; to Kxcter ; to Kenduskeag, Corinth, ami
Charleston ; to (Jlcnburn, Brownville, and Katahdin Iron Works ; to Brewer,
Eddington, Clifton, Amherst, and Aurora; to Orrington, Bucksport, Orlaiid,
Penobscot, and Castine ; to Ellsworth, Cherrylield, Maeluas, and Ejistport(r25 M.,
fare §10, leaves every evening).

Bangor, the second city in Maine, and the secrnd lumber-mart in the
■world, is a handsome city situated on commandhij^- hills at the head of
navigation on the Peuob.scot River. It is about GO M. fnmi the .sea, aTid
is divided into two parts by the deep ravine in which flow.s the Kendus-
keag Stream. The business part of the eity is situated on the level land
adjoining tliis stream on both sides, ami has many nuissive and substantial
commercial buildings, since Bangor is the trade-centre for a larger area of
country than is fed bj^ any other New England city. It contains 18,289
inhabitants (in 1800 it had 277), with 11 banks, a daily and 2 weekly
papers, 5 insurance conipaiues, 5 Masonic lodges, 43 schools, and 14
churches. The heights on either side of the Kenduskeag are lined with
well-shaded streets, and have many handsome residences, wliile there are
several well-built churches in the same localities. The Custom House and
Post Oflice, on the Kendn.skeag Bridge, is a neat granite structure. There
are 240 men engaged in iron-works here, and loO in tlie shoe-numufactiir-
ing trade, besides which the city has several small factories and ship-
yards, with a lucrative coasting and foreign trade. The products of tln^
rich alluvial basin of the Penobscot are handled here, althougli, on account
of the severity of the climate in this higli latitude, but a small portion of
the valley is under cultivation. The trilmtaries of the Penol)scot pene-
trate the great Maine Forest in every direction, and b'ar dov uward to
Bangor inmtense quantities of lumber, in the sawing and sliipment of
which tlie eity llnds its cldef industry. The booms i!i wliieh the descend-
ing logs .*re cauglit extend for miles along the river, and a great number
of <,aw-mills are in operation along the sliores. Up to lS.x'», 2,l>y'J,847,2()l
ft. of lumber had been surveyed at Bangor; between 18,VJ aiiil Ibtl'J,
l,S6i>,%r>.4r>4 ft of. long lumbei were siiipped hence; in IStiS alone,
274,000,000 ft. of ;,liort Ivimber (cl;ij>bnar<ls, laths, and shingles) were

H i

,•1

310 HoHle./fS.

BANGOR.

lu ■ ,'

fr* • i

shipped; and in 1872, 240,500,000 ft. of long lumber were sunvyed here.
The lumber crop of 1S72, in Maine, was abo> 700,000,000 ft., of -which
225,000,000 floated down the Ppno1)soot, an. 100,000,000 passed down
the Kennebi'c. To transport this immense amount of lumber to its des-
tined markets, fleets of hundreds of vessels romo np to the city, where
there is a broad exjianse of deejt water willi tides rising over 10 ft.

The Tlieohnjical tHcniinanj w.'is cliartered by the State of Mass, in 1814,
and is uiider the care of the Congregational Church, though its teaching
is non-sectarian orthodoxy. It occupies buildings fronting on a broad
campus, in tlie liighest part of the city, and has 5 professors, 40-50
students, and altout 000 alumni, with a library of 13,000 volumes, Xo-
rumbega JIall is on the Kenduskeag ljridge,*and pertains to the city ; its
lower ])ortion being used as a market, while in the upper hall 2,000
I)ersons can be seated.

It is said that ('!i!Uii]il;)in nscondcd Vac Penobscot as far as tlie site of Hanpor,
in KiOS. '|'li« sritlt'iiiciit was made hftwccn 170'.) and 177'>, and in 17'.H Kcv. tSotli
Nohlc, its n'pnst'Mtativc, was (inliT''d liy tlie peoiiKi to liavc it ineoriM)rate<l under
llie name of Sunlmry. Mr. Nuluti, liowever, was very loud of tlie old tune of
" HauL'or," ami (iierliaps inailvcrtcntly) had that nanu^ fzivcn to the new town. In
ISM the town was taken by a British "sqnadron, after the destrnction of tlie'SFohn
Adams" ; in \K\'.\ it Ix i-;iin<i a cit^ ; and in ls48 it was declared a port of entry.
The '2(1 Maine leginni ' was raised in IStii around IJanj^'or, and received supeib
colors from the ladies of New York, Jjaltimore. and Han Francisco. Tlie latter
flaK was the linest m the army, and was tlie centre (.fa tcrrilic lij^ht at Bull Run,
in which the color-j^niards were all kiJed, and the oi^Misin;^' re.uMnu'iit (the 7tli
Georgia) was "nearly annihilated." The lla;.,^ was not lost, and tin' re,<.,'iment was
the last on the lield. At (Jaines' Mill tliis cnmmand took the 5th Alabama tlags,
and at rreeleriekslmr},' it lost i^ of its rank and li'.e.

Glcnburn (I'cirh llousr) is 10 M. N. of JJanyor, on Pnsliaw Pond, which ha.s
considerable local fame for its line lishin,''.

■a

'■■ In

48. Boston to Bangor. The Penobscot River.

By Sanford's Indcjiendent Line of steamers, hsivin^' Boston, Monday, T^ies-
day, Thursdav, and Fridav, at 3 e. m. (time-table of 1^7'J). Boston to Rockland
$2.00; to Banj,^)r, i?:{.0(». '

By Route .^7 or ;?8 to J'ortland, and thence by steamer to Bangor (PortL'uid to
Bangor, S^.fjO) ; or by R- 'tes 37 (or 38) and 41 to Rockland, and thence mp the
river by steamer.

In calm A.eatlicr the outside route is very pleasant. The steamer
passes down Boston Harbor (see page 20) and out on the open sea, ap-
proaching Cape Ann and Thacher's Island (Route 30) at late twilight.
The early riser next morning will see the bold shores of Monhegau Island,
far out in the ocean. This island Avas .settled in 1018, and had a stirring
liistory for more than a ceidury, but now lias only a few score of inhab-
itants, mostly engaged in the deep-sea ii.sheries, or wringing .scanty crop.s
from the rugged thousand acres on the bluffs. The steamer now pa.sses
in by the historic ])eninsnlas of Knox County, leaves Vinalhavou on the
E., and rounding Owl's Head, readies Rockland, 175 M. from Boston
(see Route 44). The Tuesday and Friday steamers here connect closely

iTt'yed here.
rt,, of ■wliicli
passed down
r to its (k's-

city, where
1<) ft.

ass. in 181 i,
its teaching
on a broad
isors, 40-50
unies. JS"'-)-
tlie city; its

hall 2,000

c. nf rJancjor,
<\n Kcv. «oth
'I •rated nnfl(>r
i)ld tunc of
uwtcwn. In

nf tl,i'"J,,lni

01 1 of entry.
I'ived supeib
. The latter
ntlinll Rnn.
•■lit (tlie 7tli
'e,i,'iineiit was
abama Hags,

, which has

jr.

>nday, Tties-
;o Roekland

Portland to
mee up the

le steamer
en sea, ap-
3 twiliglit.
fan Island,
a siining
of inhab-
anty cro|»H
low passes
eii on the
m Boston
ct closely

Jil'lLFAHT.

^"'<t>'4S. 'Ml

"*^- ^ J'"!? coasted by this nl... • \ . ^"^ ''''^'''^ the British of

enintrv fi.Ji <• -^ '"^ Jdace m l* 0'{ o,. i "'uisji at

It i.as '. ;;, "'^ "■■7'^. »nrt several c„„„,;U., ,,''"! '" "'>' ""'-"■,

'-^astinc is sepu -f*

(^'-•sti^eron the B 't) rbolf', "^'"'^ '''^^ ^•'■^^^^•^^ P^mnsul, of p .

in M^< i^ r. ' ^ '>oi'i shore of P,n-/ o • . • '-"''^ <^t Fentatroet

^ "■^'""S »'"' '■""ling), ,,,K| t|,„

mmmm

\(^-. ■'

^i ■■■ !

;l ■

318 Jioule 40.

OLDTOWN.

river seems to end, so rapidly does it contract. As tlie swift tides of
Buck trt Narrows are entered, a sudden turn reveals the bright village
of Bucksport (/?"/>/ /i.90H House; Jiirertiide J/onse), a shipbuilding and
fishing pla<*e with '^,4-VA inhaltitants. This town was settled by Col.
IJuek, of Haverliill, in 17<51, and now has two lianks, a custom house,
several churches, and a lucrative county trade. On the hill above the
village is the E. Maine Conference Scininary, a Methodist School with
{j-'lOO students, from whose lawn beautiful river-views are afforded. On
the blulf opposite Piucksjiort is Fort Knox, an immense and costly forti-
ii(;ation lately built by the U. S., which completely commands the river
with itn heavy batteries.

StaROs rini frnm Bncksixirt to Mt. Desert (see Route 4')), in aliout dO M., jiass-
iiiy tlu-oiigli KUsworth {A)ncricuu House), a city of 5,200 inhiibitants, the capi-
tal of Hancock County.

The river now grows more narrow and picturesquely sinuous, while
vessels arefrerjuently jiassed. Winterport (Commercial House) is reached
5 M. above Hiu'ks])( rt, after passing Mt. Waldo and the granite-producing
shores of Fi-ankfort on the W. 7 M. beyond, the steamer stops at Jlanq)-
ilen (Penobscot House), where the U. S. corvette "John Adams," 24, was
attacked (while refitting) in 1814 by a small British fleet, Capt. Morris,
of the "Adams," had armed shore-batteries with |ils sliip's guns, but the
badly olllcered rural mililia were speedily louted by a bayonet-charge of
the liritish rcL'idars. Morris then sjiiked his guns, lih"v uj) his ship, and
relreati'd willi llic sailors to Maiigor. The British plundered and overran
Uanipih'ii for B days. Soon after leaving Iliinipden, the steamer reaches
(about noon) tito elty of llangor (see Uoute 47).

49. Bangor to St. John.

By the Ftiropeaii and North Aiul'rican I{iiil\v;iy, 'Jo.'iJ M. lassengcfs on the
tlirough train iioni Boston (l^- Routes 87 and 47) make their first and only ehaiige
of cars here.

Seats on the r. side of the car afford views of the river, After leaving
Bangor, the train passes Venzif and other stations, with the river cov«fr<^l
with booms and immense rafts of timber, and lined with saw-njills. H'a-
tions, Onnio (the seat of the State Agricultural Colieg*), and O'ldtown
(two inns), a place of about 4,000 inhabitants, mostly engaged in the
lumber business. The inmiense and costly booms and mills should be
noticetl here. Oldtowu has the largest limiber-mill in the world, where
loo .saws are at work turning the rude logs which come in at one side into
planks, which are rafted away to Bangor. On an island near the village
(ferry-boat on the shore) is the home of the Tarratine ln<lians, one of the
three tribes of the Etchemin nation. Though the most powerful and war-
like of the northern tribes, the Tarratines rarely attacked the colonists.

^t tides of
i^lit village
liMing and
L'd by Col.
oni house,
above the
chool with
)rdcd. On
ostly forti-
i the river

no M., i)a«s-
:3, the capi-

ous, Avhile
i is ri'ached
-producing
at J/itinp-
s," 21, was
)t. Morris,
IS, but the
charge of
i ship, and
id mciran
er reaches

i6-f» op the
inly (Itmgn

fliEDKiaCToY

After a series of wrongs „, . ^^'^'^^4iJ. 310

tJ'^^t Maine '. ' '/-T '""'^'*"' «"^-'' t.-nif 1, ' ""^>' '-^^tackod the

«^>-yi". !• m^"^/"''"'^'>' ^° them ',- th . ""Tl'^""^ '°- of lin^

-'• their prasent re ;?' '"'''' '^^'" ^'-atv o 7^ o.^- 'f '"' ^''^>' ^«-
iV'nob.cot u a , """ '''^^' the State '1'],: "';'" ''"" '^•"••^tance

I/--//- 7 '^ ""e crosses Hin n i

Sta-o.s run froi , ; , • tlirou-h tlio f,,n,. * '"^ wilder-

"'■"M S,=l,„„,,i„ LaK. „™ "i""'-"" "■■ D,.„f„,,|,, ,,, , J ■ /'"^i'O.nt,
<r.»» crosses tl,. «.^ ""'or, and »o,„, «ft,.,. , .■""'''""■'> I'as goal

A.4<.^z w„ ™'^ "■'■' -"--^ t,;; it i, r:;%''"\r""«^ "«

[■► ;

> 'I

:J2() yi'(y<//./ .f'>.

ST. JuHN.

stiition) is wortliy of notice. * Christ Church Cathedral * t^jii.scopal) in
one of the liiicst on the cotitiniMjt, though small. It is of frray stone, in
Kngli.sh Gotliir. unliittitiire, ami lias a stone spiie, 178 ft. liigh, rising
from tilt' junction ol the nave ami transepts. The interior is })('a\itiful,
ami the ehancel has a superb winilow of Newcastle stained glass, pre-
senteil by the Episc(i))ul clnircli in the United States. In the centre is
Christ erueilie(l, witli SS. .JcIim, tiames, and Peter on the I., ajid SS.
'i'lionuis, l'liili]t, and Andrew on the v. Iii the church tower is a chime
of 8 bells, each in.scribed,

" Ave, Tntpr. Rcx.CroHtor,
Ave, I'ili, l.iiv. Sulvatiir,
Ave S|>lritiis (..'onsDlntdr,
A\c litutii I'liituii.

Avo, Simplex, Av«>. Trine,
Av<', Kc^Miun.s ill Suliliiiii',
Ave lit'Hoiu't sine tliic
Avf .Suncta Trinitaf."

The St. John River.

■W'lieu there is \vat<'r eii()iij:h in tlii' river, steamers aseeml tlie St. .iolm River to
W()(i(lst()c'l\, 0-' -M. N. W., ai.il near Ibniittin. ■'^ti-ainers leave freilorictdu tur St.
.lolin at 8 A. M., arriving lliere at :i v. m. I istariee, alxmt WS}. ; laic, '<1..')0.
'Die steaiiiiis inn (miy on 'I'liesday, Thiiisilay, aiid Sutunhij (iu 167"J), leaving St.
.Jolin the alternate <tays, at S a. .m.

As the steamer jjasses into the .-itreani, a beautiful view of the capital
city, with its Cathedral and University, is obtained. On the ojipo.site
sliore is the mouth of the Nashwaak Ki\er, where stood a fort which was
a centre of siege 2i>0 years ago. 11 M. bchjw, the village at the mouth of
the Oromocto Uiver is ])a.ssed, and Ihelofty s]>ireof Hui'ton church is .soon
alter seen on the r. Tlie boat stojis at Sheffield, v>ith its large academy,
and pa.sses iMaugeiville, which was settled by l^ostonians in 17<K). Ciage-
town is next seen, on u bluff opposite the mouth of the Jemseg Uiver, and
in a rich I'arming country. Numerous islands are ]iassed, and broad in-
tervales stretch back fiom the shores. The steaiaer soon enters the Long
Keach, which is followed for 20 M., jiasshig the mouth of the Nerepis
Uiver, with it.s fortified ])oint, abamloned for two centuries. At Grand
Day the scenery grows nobler, and the broad estuary of the Kennebecasis
lUvcr opens to the K. Avitli fine eflect. A narrow channel between pic-
ture.S(pie palisades is now entered, and followed on swift waters, until a
glimpse of the Suspension Bridge is gained on the r. as the steamer roujidii
to her pier at ludiantown, a suburb of

St. John.

Hotels. ■-''Victoria Hotel, noo f;uests, .S.'i.OO (Canadian) a day; Rothesay
House ; IJarues Hou^u ; Waverly House : Auiericau Hou.se.

Carriages. — -i^^-. a course in the city ; 25e. each half-hour. Horse-Cars to
Imliaiitown, fare 5r.

Knilway-i.— To Fivdericton, Bangor, and Boston ; to Woodstock, Houlton,
a!id St. .Xiidnws ; to Sliedjae, Halifax, and Windsor.

Steamers. — To Kastport, Portland, and Boston ; to Digby and Annapolis ; to
Va) mouth and Shelburue ; to Halifax ; to Frederictou and Woodstock.

s A M,;

:it b V. \

[liscopal) iii
y stone, in
tiigh, rising
beautiful,
glass, pro-
e centre is
1., and SS.
is a chime

ne,

iif,

I."

lin Rivpr to

it(in tor St.

Ill It', s 1.50.

leaving St.

lie capital
i oj)i)osite
ivhicli was
mouth of
ch is soon
academy,
'•>. Oage-
tUver, and
Ijroad in-
the Long
-' Nerepis
it Grand
nehecasis
veen pic-
s, until a
erroujids

Rothesay
se-Cars to

Houlton,
ipolia : to

■'•'"^- ■^•'^^v- „„,,,„,„,^ ,^^^^^^^^^^

"'" ■-"'■.■ace of ,„l m ^T •"''''"■"™ ""'1 "nio'T "''' '"■""' «'"

-;«i^i.w.,„„, a, r^v::, ";!"■■■ '•■■"'■' '-■";'■' ;'';:■:■■"''' - '"«^

*^nan, and i r< ' ^-^tJioJic, ., i>.,, ,. , . "> '" -'v visit. 'n,,._

"""lu«si„,|,„ ""-'"'li >vitl, a ht,v s„/n. , """''i'"»'Ml'l. 81

^ ''lace, and some mnv . "V ' ''• ^'''-ii- the Cuu , , ""' '"''o"- in
«™. Whence a fie w":-:f "":'■'■ ^^ U.i vi ';'' '» ',!'» "'-'.op,

wafer, and a/l„,,i,'\. ^'■"'«'' '■' WO fe 1 °? V? ^'"ffe ■<> the

;'"""»' w »:.';,.:„;::;:'■ "- '^'^ ■'■"...■riiH ;tr;; "•.'"-'•" '-'

rtimarkahle sf.ri.f <- ^ '^ nancw goive Af i • , ^''*' ^'^^'^''' «la,she«

I''-om the Lun.ti A '^"-'' ^^^^ gorc^J r,, *''" ^'^^"^ ^^ the Bay

^^^''■^'J^ts, a pZ ''■.^""'' «'• from rhe U if'T t'"' "ver level

'^'--' near the Bay^'' '''''''' ^^ ^-■-. The mIu^^'^^' 7;-^'^ Purple

Jn 1630 Clm-u'^TjTA^ -'""J "uiaed the Sf t .

»t(aekin>, ir* , "'"''.v i" Kiri ( ,. • ^"'"'. 'in-Jt ;i /v,.? i •^'- -^"'"rs Dav ifln.

""■I n^Auim.":, "'«,.».'■"«,„ ,;,', "*.'':'■"<■ to St.,,,,, „.?i' ".!-"'• '»'«■• in

;'''^"iate for a ' , f "" ^^'■'* fort it J , '' ^•""' '"arno.l,,."'' '^''^''^n a f,. J
r'^'aye. I„ 1,'s'o «!;';•';.'•''« <J^'.sti-o;v'l 't'V"'l''''''^"" ^^•i-'^ est.l l^'p','-'^''- •■""1 'left

•^t. J<,i,„, ea.oo ; Port ,,; i ' '"^f'^-^'and

«,,

14 *

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-S)

1.0

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L25 1111.4

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Photographic

Sciences
Corporation

23 WEST MAIN STREET

MEB'TER.N.Y. MS80

(716) 872-4303

^^i.-^

M^^

.s i

?,22 Boute 50.

ST. ANDREW.

■I:
♦ ■

11'! '

i '

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stages leave Bangor every evening for Eustport, wliicli is 125 M. distant, via
Ellsworth and Machias. Fare, ig 10. OU.

"EtiStporti* Pa.'!Sf'mf'q'io(l(h/ Jloi/.te) is the. const 1»f)rdc'r-to\vn, and has

3,738 iuhal)itants. It is pleasantly situated on a hilly island in Passama-

qiioddy Bay, and is commanded liy Fort Sullivan, a garrisoned post of the

U. S, The hay ahounds in i)icturesque islands, tiie chief of which is

Campo Bello, (opposite Eastport and withm the Canadian horders. This

island is often visited in summer, and has much fine ocean scenery. To

the S. is Quoddy Head and the Canadian islan<l of Grand Menan (1,800

inhabitants), 22 M. long and 3-6 M. wide, with its western shore lined

hy frowning cliffs 3 - 400 ft. liigh.

Eastport was settled in 1780, and was captured and fortified by a British fleet
in 1814. It wan the hirthplace of Henry I'rince, C. II. Smith, and N. J. T. Dana,
able national generals during tlui Secession War. The Gtli Maint! Infantry gathered
here in 1801, and then moved away to Virginia, where it was engaged in 10 pitched
battles, and lost over 1500 men by death.

Stages and st^-ameis run 80 M. N. W. from Eastport to Calais. The
steamer moves ouu across the broad and island-studded bay, passing on
the 1. Pleasant Point (in Perry), the home of the 400 remaining members
of the Openango tribe of the Etchemin nation of Indians. The first stop-
ping-place is St. Andrew (with a large new hotel accommodating 300
guests), a decadent maritmie provincial town (3,000 inhabitants), plea.^-antly
.situated on a long promontory, and having line facilities for bc/thing, boat-
ing, aUvi fishing. St. Andrew is the shire-town of Charlotte County, N. B.,
and is the terminus of the N. B. and Canada RailWcay. Beyond this port the
bay naivows rapidly, and Xeiitral Island (with its lighthouse) is i)assed,
opposite Rcbbinston. Henri IV. of France granted Acadia (an iuvlofinite
district, embracing Nova Scotia, New Brun.swick, and as much more as
he could get) to the Sieur de Monts in 1G02. In 1G04 the grantee brought
over a colony (mostly of Huguenots) and settled on this island, which
lie fortified strongly. During the mournful winter of 1604-5, 36 out of
70 of the colonists died, either from scurvy, or from drinking water
l)oisoncd by the Indians. Remains of De IMonts' fort may be seen on the
island (which belongs to the U. S.). Pohhinston village is now touched at,
and then the steamer passes up by Oak Point and Devil's Head to Calais
(International Hotel ; St. Croix Exchan<jr). This is a city of about 6,000
inhabitants, with 2 banks, 2 weekly papers, and G churches. It was
founded in 1789, and has a huge shii)l'uilding and lumber business.

A railway runs 20 M. N. W. from Calais to Lewoy's Island (in Princeton ; two
inns), whence the iMcturescpio Schoodic Lakes may lu- entered. The steamer
"Gipsey" runst^irri'gularly, for lumboiing work) on I.ewey's, Big, and Long Lakes,
There is a large villag' of Passamafiuoddy Indians on one of these lakes, and
hunting and lishing parties from the coast cities often pass the sunimer here,
roughing it in canoes and in the forest.

Mail-stf)ges run from Calais to Eastport ; also (daily) through the vast and des-
olat.' forest to Daiijior, '.*j M. W. ; fare, t7 50; also (from Princeton) to Honllon.

i !

istant, via

, and has
Passama-
ost of the
which is
ers. This
merv. To
nan'a,800

ihore lined

British fleet

J T. Dana.

Itry gathered

ill 10 pitcliea

Calais. The

, passing ou

iiig luenihers

he first stop-

uodating 300

s), pleasantly
.thing, ■':>oat-

|"ounty,N. B.,

.this port the

;e) is passed,
(an indefinite
uch more as
anteehrought
island, which
5, 36 out of
•inking water
jc seen on the
|w touched at, ^
ad to Calais
,f about 6,000
;lies. It was
siness.

^'rinooton ; twi)
'I'lie Bteainer
lid Loii;,^ Lakes
lose Ul^cs, ami ,
suuiuiev Ueri',

.- vast and dcs
L) to UoulU'i'

WOODSTOCK.

Route 50. 323

A covered bridgo leads from Calais to St. Stephen ( Walker You.^e), a
Ijriglit an(1 active town of over 5,000 inhabitants. The citizens of Calais
and of St. Stepheti have ever lived in perfect fraternity, and formed and
kept an agreement by whicli they refrained from mutual hostility during
the War of 1812.

From this point the N. B. and Canada Railway runs W. tlirongh the
forest (crossing Route 49 at McAdam Junction) to hehe.c, 74 M. distant,
whence a branch road runs (in 11 M.) to Woodstock, the shire-town of
Carleton County, N. B. This town has 4,000 iidiabitants, and is pleas-
antly situated ou the St. John River, loO M. from its mouth. Stages run
through Tol)i([ue to Grand Falls, where the river is contracted into a
narrow gorge between lofty clilVs, and plunges over a succession of rocky
steps, the f'rst leap being 40 ft. perjiendieular. Tri-weekly stages run
from this point through the French settlements at Ma<lawaska, to Riviere
du Loup, on the St. Lawrence River (see Route 56).

From Debec a branch railr(/.iil runs N. W. 8 M. to Hculton {Snell
House ; Buzzell Ifause), the shire-town of Aroostook County, Maine, with
a populate n of 2,851, 2 weekly papers, and 5 churches, lloultoii is 456
M. (by railway) from Boston, and has stage-ioutes running to all parts of
N. E. Maine.

Presque Isle (small hotel) is a forest village, with nearly 1,000 inhab-
itants, a weekly paper (the " Pres(|ue Isle Sunrise "), 4 cliurohes, and an
academy. This is one of the centres of the rich farming lands of Aroos-
took County, which cover over 500,000 acres, and are b^'ing taken up
rapiilly by settlers, induced by their variety, fertility, and cheapness.
Two fine national roads cross this district, — the Aroostook, from Matta-
wamkeag to Fort Kent, and the Military Road through IJoulton to Van
Buren. Many Swedes are settling here, while Madawaska is a populous
French district.

Stages riM) from Presque IsU; to Houlton, Waslibiini, ami Dalton ; the latter
roa:l jiassiim W. by the Al'a;,'asii Mts. to tht; l/ike of Sfvcii Isles, a little al>'>v»5
the head of t^w-hoat navigation on the St. John River an<l over 80 M. from Dal-
ton. This road jiasses through the heart of the great forest. "The jiriineval
woods of Maine still cover an extent seven times that of tlu; famous Black Forest
of (iennany at its l;irge'!t expanse in modern times. The States of 1{. I., tjonii.,
ami Delaware could l»e lost together in our northern foiests, and still have uhout
each a inarL^in of wilderness sudiiieutly wide to make the exploration without a
compass a work of desperate adventure."

Fort Fairheld (small hotel) is on the froidier, on t]\e road running F from
I'resque Isle to Tobique (N. B.) ou the St. John River. It has nearly :i,U0O in-
habitants, with 5 c'liurches.

Stages run on the Military Roivd, to Fort Kent, 84 M. N. W. of Prescpie

\t,

321 Houte 50.

MADAWASKA.

*i ■■

I \
f.'

•'I; •

I ,.

i ■;■•

Isle. This route crosses and follows the Aroostook River to Chriliou, ai;cl
then runs for 20 M. through the forest to Von Buren (two inns), a senii-
F/ench settlement (1,000 inhal»itants) on the St. John, and near the
Grand Falls. The road now turns N. W. and follows the St. John 15 M.
to Grant Isle, a French village, 10 M. Vtcyond which is Madawaska
(Fournier's inn), a village belonging to a large district which has long
been iidiabited by Acadian French, who were exi)elled from Nova Scotia
{Acadic) in 1755. There are several thousand of these Catholic and
"pious Acadian peasants," divided into 4 i»arishes, and here the tourist
may perhajis lind an " Evangeline." (The poem has been translateil into
Canadian Freiu-li, and isjtopular. ) Madawaska and the Eagle Lakes lie
S. of this village, which is 100 M. N. of Iloulton. 20 M. beyond (the
stage following the St. John River, and passing tiirough Dionne), Fort
Kent, with its two inns and ruined blockdiouse, is reached. The popida-
tion is still French, and 20 M. W. is >St. Francis, anothci' Acadian village.
(Stages run occasionally. )

Fort Kent is 194 M. from Bangor, and 440 M. from Boston.

■'1 L '

■ * J

\l> ■

, >

NEW YORK CITY TO THE SAGUENAY RIVER.

Having described New England and her eastern frontier in the 50 pre-
ceding routes, it has been thought advisable to add thereto a brief survey
of those most interesting regions which lie on the west and north of her
borders. The tourist might easily ari'ange a profitable and pleasant sum-
mer-trip, by taking either of the Routes, 3, 8, 19, or 21, to New York,
thence ascending the Hudson to Albany, and passing to Montreal by way
of Saratoga and Lakes George and Champlain, whence Quebec and the
Saguenay are easily reached ; and the return to Boston could be effected by
either of the Routes, 24 (and 25) or 40 (and 37 or 38.)

V <

Route 51. New York City and its Environs.

52. New York to Albany. The Hudson River.

53. Albany to Montreal. Saratoga and Lake George.

54. montrkvl and its environs.

55. ]\Iontreal to Quebec. The St, Lawrence River.

56. Quebec. The Saguenay River.

;' n

I;0u, ai.d
, a semi-
near the
Iiul5 M.
lawaska
lias loiij4
/a Scotia
lolic ami
le tourist
ated into
Lakes lie
yontl (the
ine), Fort
.e popula-
lu village.

lie 50 pre-

•ief survey

•th of her

saut sum-

ew York,
|al by way
and the

ffected by

George.

NEW YORK CITY.

Route 51. 325

51. New York City.

Arrival. — The railway-station (Boston lino) is on 4th Ave., cornor of A-hX
St. Horse-cars run tlienre down 4tli Ave. to Union Si|U;i'e, ami tliroiii,'h liio
Bowery to tlie City Hall Park and A.stor House. The piers of the three steam-
hoiit lines arc on the Hudson lliver.

Hotels. — The * I-'itth Avetnie, on .'Sfadi.son Square (8-000 gue.sts), a vast and
superb ni;irl)le liuilding ; th'3 * St. Nicholas, on Broailway, cnniiT of Sprinj,' !St., a
marble buihlin;,' in the Corinthian order, six stories hi,i,di.cost ••:; 1,000, ooo, and circi
for 1,000 j^uests ; the * Metropolitan, on Broadway, conuT of I'rince, is of brown-
stone, si.x stories high, and cost nearly .s l,00(j,0i)O ; iW *(irand Central, on Broad-
way between Amity and Bleei ker Sts., eight stories high, of marble, and accom-
modating 1,. 500 guests ; llolinian House, on Madison .Scpiare, an aristocratic liousc,
cari.ig for 'M>0 guests ; Crainercy Park House, on (Iramercy Park, an immense
family hotel, with room for (3-SOO guests; (irand Hotel, corner Broadway and
81st St., an elegant lirst-(dass house. These inmicnse hotels arc amply snpplic I
with all the luxuries of modern American civilization. Their charges are fniin
$14.00 to iJ.^.OO a day, with considerable reduetions in case of a long sojoin-n.
There iuo .several llrst-class hottds on Union Scpiarc : the FiVerett(FAiropean plan) ;
the Clarendon, patronized ))y Knglish tonrists ; the Union S'luare ; the .Spitighr ;
the Union Place, &(■. The New York Hotel, 7-1 Broailway, is a resort for
Southern visitors ; the Preseott House, 'SM Broadway, aeeommodates .'iOO guesU
and is much freiiuented by foreign tourists ; so is also the jialatial St. Deiii-*
Hotel, on Broailway ojiposite (irace Cliurcli. The St. Cloud (corner of Broadway
and 4iid St.) is the iiest ni)-town hotel ; the Gilsey IIous(! (Broadway and 'J'.itli Si.)
and the St. James (U.roadway and 'iCith St.) are also line hotels above Madison
Square. The Men! ints'. National, and Western are on Cortlandt St., in tint
lower part of the i ity, and are patronized by l)usiness men. The 'Astor House,
(on Broadway, opposite the Post Office) is kept on the Em'ope.an plan, as are also
the Brandreth (corner of Broadway arid Canal St.), the Westminster (eorimr
Irving Plaee and Kith St.), the Belvidere (Irving Plaee and lOth St.), the Irviii.;
(Broadway and 12th St.), the Brevoort ("jth Ave. and Sth St.), the Albemarle, &(•.
French's, Leggett's, Sweeny's, and the Cosmopolitan are near the City Il.dl I'ark.
Rooms may be obtained at the European plan hotels for from .•j'l to .•?:$ a day,
with meals ala carte within the house or elsewhere. For a tourist who is to
make but a short visit to New York these houses will be found more commodious
and less expensive then those on the American jilan. There an; aliout 140 other
hotels in the city, several of which are first-class. The Stevens House is on Bro.id-
way near the Battery; and the Grand Union, opposite the Grand Central depot
(4'2d St.) is conveniently situated for passengers arriving by late trains from New
England or the North.

Restaurants. — *Delmonico'.s, corner .1th Ave. and 14th St., the best in
America (with branch establishments down town, at the corner of Broadway ai;d
Chambers St., and on Broad St. near Wall) ; Parker's on Broadway ne;u- ;!4t!i St..
is frequented by ladies; also Bigot's, on i4th St., near Broadway; Geyer's, 7:>i
and 736 Broadway, is a large and favorite restaurant ; Solari, corner of Uni\'cr.;ity
Place and Uth St., prepares elaborate late dinners. lauch (8(34 Broadway) and
Bergman (1,121 Broadway) keep ladies' restaurants, which are much frequented ;
Arnaud (815 Broadway) is famous for tine French candies; and Purssell's ('.dO
Broadway) is a favorite lunch-saloon for the up-town ladies. At 3'J Park Row,
and at Leggett's Hotel arc large eating-houses for down-town merchants.

The cafes and restaurants atta(!hed to the large hotels on tiie European plan aio
generally well kept, and arc much visited by ladies. The Astor House lias ono
of the best of these. Gystcrs may be found in every variety in the small saloons
in Fulton Market. Maillard's ((i21 Bn.adway) is famous for line confectionery
and chocolate. New England dishes are served at Peai-son's, on Cortlandt near
Greenwich St.

Consuls. — English, 17 Broadway ; German, 117 Broadway ; French, 4 Bowling
Green ; Italian, 7 Broadway ; Austrian, .H3 Broadway ; Russian, 52 Exchanga
Phce ; Swedish, 18 Exchange Place ; Spanish, 20 Broadway ; Swiss, 23 John St.

Tleaciing Rooms. — In all the chief hotels(for guests) ; Y. M. C. Associatiioi,
comer 23d St. and 4th Ave., also at 285 Hudson St., 473 Grand St., and 2ii5

326 lioutc 51.

NEW YOIIK CITY.

I:'

l>^

■It '-

■1'

{

■< y

}'!' *'

^«

■•; '!"■

Bleecker St. Astor Library, l/ifayette Place, opon OJ-T); City Library, City
Hall, open free to all, 10-4; * Cooper Union, rnrncr 7tli Ht. and '4th Ave'., opeii
from 8 A. M. to 10 k m. ; Woman's Library, uittjn 'J-4(.^L50a year) ; N. Y. His-
torical iSncifty, corner 11th St. and 2(1. Ave.

Post Office) corner of Cedar and Nassnn Sts., open continuously except
iSinidays, wlien it is only open between and 11 a. .m. , eij,'ht deliveries of letters
daily ; tlie Hastcrn mails close at 5 A. m., l.l^O v. M., and (> p. m.

CarriageH. — For nnv ]ias.senj,'er for a distance of 1 M. or less, r>Oc. ; two
passen^^ers, 70c. ; for one passenj^'cr for more tiian 1 and less than 2 M.,75 c. ; and
for eacii additional jiasscnj^er, '.17^ <'. ; " us(^ of a hack.iey coach or carriage by the
day, witli 1 or nmre j>assen;,'ers. .^o.OO"; by tiie hour, stoiipin;,' as often as re-
quired, $1.00. iS'o extra charge is allowed for one trunk or box ; children between
2 and 14 years of a^'e jiay half-i>rice. A tarifl' of fares is (or should be) himg in
each carriage, but tii(! drivers iVe(|ueMtly attempt to extoiL undue sums from their
l»assengers. hi sucli cases, since the hacknien of New York are the most ruf-
tianly of tiieii- class in the worhl, an instant aiii)eal should be made to the first
policeman who may be seen.

Omnibuses (ea lied "stages") run (I) from Fulton Ferry, by Broadway,
University I'laec, l;5tli, and 5th Ave., to 42d St.. returning over the same route;
(2) from South Ferry, >)y Hroa.'vay, 23d. and Otli Ave., to :50th St., returning the
same way ; (.!) from South Ferr\ , by Ih-oadway and 4th Ave., to 32d St. ; (4) from
South Ferry, by Broadway ano l.th St. to Avenue A. ; {j)from South Ferry, by
Broadway, to the ImIo H. R. ferry on 23d St. ; (G) from Wall St. Ferry, by Wall",
Broadway, 23d, and Madison Ave., to 40th St. ; (7) from Jersey City Ferry (Cort-
landt St.) by Broadway, Bleecker St., Bowery, and 2d. St, to Houston St. Ferry.
The fare on these lines is 10 c.

Horse-Cars. — The fare on most ol the lines is 5c. (1) Park Place to
Central Park, by Church anl (ir<'i iie Sts. ;.nd 7th Ave. ; (2) Astor House (Vesey
St.) to Central Park, by West Broadway, Varick St., ami (itli Ave. ; (3) Astor
House to Central Park, by Canal, Hudson, and 8th Ave. ; (4) Astor House to
Grand Central Depot and Harlem, by Park How, Chatham St., Bowery, and 3d
Ave. ; (•')) Astor House to Hunter's Point Ferry, by Park Row. Centre, Grand,
Bowery, 4th Ave., 32d and 34th Sts. ; {(i) Astor House to 34th St. Ferry, by
Chatham St., East Broadway, Avenues B. and A., and 1st. Ave. ; (7) Astor
House to Stith St., by Centre, Bowery, 4th and Madison Aves. ; (8) corner
Broadway and Canal St. to 43d St., by Varick St. and Cth Ave. ; {!•) corner
Broadway ami Canal St. to Central Park, by Canal, Hudson, and 8th Ave. ; (10)
corner Broadway and Ann St. through Chatham, East Broadway, Avenues B.
and A. ; (11) corner Broadway an<l ]5roome to Central Park, by 7th Ave. ; (12)
corner Bmailwav and Ftdton to u4th St., bv Greenwich St. and Otli Ave. ; (13)
Peck Slip to Harlem (128th St.), by Oliver St., Bowery, and 2<1 Ave. ; (14) South
Feny to Central l*ark, by West St. and lOth Ave. ; (U>) South Ftnry to Central
Park, by the East River F'erries, 1st Ave., and 59th St. ; (10) Fulton Ferry
through Centre and Bleecker Sts. to 10th Ave. ; (17) Grand St. Ferry to Des-
brosses St. F'erry, by < J rand and Vestry Sts. ; (IS) Granu St. Ferry to Cortlandt
St. Ferry; (10) Grand St. Ferry to 4'2d St. (Weehawken) FVrry ; (20) corner
Cliambers and West Sts. to 42d St. Dcpnt. The Elevated liailvay rims from
!Morris St., on Greenwich Stand Otii Ave. to .'iOth St. The track is sui>])orted
by iron pillars ; the cars are drawn by small locomotives; and the stations are
at Morris. Dey, Canal, and 12tli Sts.

Ferries. — To Astoria, from '.i2d St., and from Peck Slip; to Blackwell'd
Island, from 2Gth St. ; to Brooklyn, from Whitehall, Wall, Fulton, Roosevelt,
Catharine, Grand. Jackson, Houston, and James Sts. ; to Governor's and Bedloe's
Islands, from Pier 43, N. R. to (Jrcenpoint. from lOth and from 2.".d Sts. ; to
Hunter's Point, from James Slip and fmm 20th St. ; to Randall's Island, from 2()th
and from 122d Sts. ; to Wards Island, from llutli St.. , to Jersey City, from
Cortlandt, Desbrosses, Cluunbers, and 23(1 Sts. ; to Hoboken. from Barclay and
Christoi>her Sts. ; to Weeliawken, fnjm 42d St. ; to Staten Island, from White-
hall St., and iVoni Pier 19, N. U.

Theatres. — The Grand Opera House (corner of 8th Ave. and 23d St.) is an
elegant mai'ble building, which is chieliy used for dramatic representations ; the
* Acjidemy of Music (,!>:» E. 14th St.) is the favorite home of the opera ; Theatre
FrauQais (107 W. 14th St.), often used also for English opera, and for dress balls,
in winter ; * Booth's Theatre (corner of 6th Ave. an(l 23d St.), devoted to Shakes-

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NEW YORK CITY.

noitfrSl. 327

p<>arp's plftys and otliors of h\^\\ firivh' ; Niblo's Onnlcii (JJiDnilway, iionr Trlncfl
?>t.") aci'oiiiiinMlatcs '-',000 inTsnns ; \VaIl,i>k*s (|{r'ia<l\v,i,v, ctiraor of i;uh St.) Ih a
lavniitf H'sait fur lovers of lt>,'itiiiiatc loiiH'iJy; I'iuh Avor;" r7-S ami 730
JJroaihvay) ami tlic Union Siiiiaif(lth Ave. ami 1 Uh St.) aro Hiiiall hut ••li'^^fint.
nuil I'lsliioiiabic tlicatrcs ; the OlyMij'ic (tJJJ liroadway), tin* t'oiniiiuf (.»14 liroa'i-
way), aii'l others, arc dcvotoil to varii-tii-.s ami comii' ^cenoii. Wood's Mnspitm
((•inner of Uroailway ami itotli St.) ^.,'ivt's ilr.uuatir iior:oniiam't\s ; and sfii.sational
trav'PclicH ami spfctacifs arc iilaycil in the Hiiwcry Tlicitn! (Miwcry, near Canal
St.), The Statlt Tiiiatre (:i7 M >\V( ry) is devoted to tii-rni ui iday.s and ojieras ; and
Tony I*a.stor'.s Oju'ia IIon.si'(-'>l IJnwiTy) j^'ive.s popnlir varictieH and si>ccta' le.s.
iJry.int's Minstnl.-; (1 1') W. '2 id St.) ;.,'ivi' m';,'ro nnjodics, danres. A:c. 'I'licr*; arc
liiinierou.H weil-arran^'i'd (icrnian liecr u'ardens in tlie city, wliere innsic and dan-
cing me jfiven. 'I'lie (,'eidral I'arU (Janleii all'nrds tin^ l>esl of orehestral music, and
is a favorite .suniinnr evenin.^' re.sortof the up-tuwn faniiiies. The Atlantic (iarden^
(m\t to the Howery Tiicalre) has line music, hut is cliidly visited by (iernians. '
The ctdlir concert-salnons on Ihoailway ami elsewhere sliould he avoiiled, for they
nre (for tiie most i);irt) lioth liisrcput.ililc ami dan,.;erous. I^ccturcs and concerts
arc tre(|uetitly K'^'"'" hi Association, ('oop(!r Institiit", Apollo, and Irvint,' flails.
Classic music, oratorios, and concerts are p'"eral!y given in Steinway Hall (14th
St., near l!road\vay).

Itntlroads. — Acro.ss Staten Island to Tottcnville, I'jcr 1, E. R. ; to Phila-
dclphi I, hy Trenton ('••() .M.) from loot of t.'ortlamlt St. ; by S. Ambny (<>-2 M.) ; to
Eastoii, Pa., from foot of liibcrty St. ; to (Ireenport, Lon;.^ Island (foot of James
St.); to Flusliin;^ ; to Ilackettstov, a ; to Lon^ Ih inch ; to .\lliany(14t M."), sta-
tion corner of ;i()th St. and lotli Ave. ; to Albany (by the Harlem 11. R.), from thfl
42d St. slation ; to New Haven and IJoston, from the corner of 4th Ave. and 42d
St. The Krie Railway (ferry) stations are at the foot of Chambers ami of 2.U\ St.

SteaniirH —Tr'nu.itlnntic linr^ for Liverpool, the White Star and Cunard
Lines, Tiers at Jersey City ; Inman Line, Pier 4'), N. II. ; U. S. Mail Line, Pier
40; Natiiii.al Line, Piers 41 ami 47, X. R. ; for Liverpool and Glasgow, Anchor
Line, Piei 20, N. R. ; for London, Piers 44 and 47, and :\, N. R. ; for Havre, Pier
fjO, X. R. ; for Hambaiji and Hremeii, Piers at llolioken ; for Antwerp ; for the
Meiliterranean ports, ll'r.^t Ind'nm linaa — for Havana, Atlantic Mail Line, Pier
4, N. R. ; for Havana and Vera Cruz, Pier 17, K. R. ; tor Hayti, Nassau, and the
Bermudas. For St. Tliomas and Brazil (monthly), Pier Hi, N. R. ; h>r St. Domin-
go and Saniana Bay. For Panama and San Franiis(;o(semi-nionthly), Pier 42, N.
R. The Anvricnn const —for Kt y West and Galvestcm (tri-monthly). Pier 20, E.
R. ; for New Orleans (:i Aveekly steamers). Piers ',) and 1-'. N. R., and 20, E. R. ;
for Fernandina, Pier 2'.', N. R. ; for Savannah (two weekly steamers), Piers L'Jand
36, N. R. ; for Charleston (thrice weekly). Piers h and S, N. R. ; for Newbern (tri-
monthly). Pier .'6, E. R. ; for Norfolk anil Richmond (tri-weekly). Pier .'J?, N. R. ;
for Washington and Alexandria (semi-weekly), Pier 20, E. K. ; for Philadelphia
(tri-weeklv). Piers ',V.\ and \\\, E. R. ; for New Bidfonl (semi-weeklv). Pier ln, E.
R. ; for Boston (outside). Pier H, N. R. ; for Portland (semi-weekly). Pier 38, E. R.

CmMirine and river linei^ — to Yonkers, Tarrytown, West i'oint, Newbur^',
Ponghkeepsie, Hudson, Albany, and Troy, from Pier MO, N. R. (morning boat),
and from Pier 4L N. R. (evening boat) ; other river-steamers are at Piei-s 40, ;}5,
34, Til, and 43 ; to ElizabethiKU't and Kill Von Kull, from Pier 14, N. R. (thrico

daily); to Staten Island (North Shore) hourly, from Pier 10, N. R. (South

Shore), from Whitehall; to Elizabethport and Perth Ainboy, from Pier 20; to
Long Branch, from Pier 35 ; to Sandy Hook, from Pier 28 ; to Newark, from Pier
20 ; to S. Amboy, from Pier 1, N. R. ; to Astoria ami Harlem, 12 times dailv, from
Pier 24, E. R. (Peck Slip) ; to Bay Ridge, from Pier l:>. E. R., times daily; to
Great Neek, Glen Cove, Roslyn, ainl Whitestone, from I'ier 24, E. R. ; to College
Point and Flushing, from Pier 22, E. R. ; to lIuntiii;,;ton and U.vster Bay, from
Pier 37, E. R. ; to Greenport and Orient, from Pier 4, N. R. ; to High Bridge and
Kingsbridge, from Harlem Bridge ; to Morrisaiiia, from Pier 22, E. R. ; to Sag
Harbor, from Pier 4, N. R. Steamers leave for GreiMiwich and Stamford from
Pier 37, E. R. ; for Norwalk. from Pier 37, E. R. ; for Bridgeport, from Pier 35,
E. R. : for Stratford and Milford, from Pier 37, E. R. ; for New Haven, from Pier
25, E. R. (afternoon and evening); for Hartford and the Conn. River ports, from
Pier 24, E. R. : for New London (and Boston), from Pier 40, N. R. ; for Stoning-
ton (and Bo.ston). from Pier 33. N. R. ; for Newport, Fall River (and Boston),
from Pier 28, N. R. ; for Providence, from Pier 27, N. R.

328 Route 51.

NEW YORK CITY.

; ^■

w »

I V I- 1

! /

it:

New York City, tlie commercial inetroi)oli,s uT the UnitoU States and
the chief city of the Western Hemisphere, is situaieil on Munlmttari
IhUukI, at tlio mouth of tlic Hudsdu Itivcr, in lalittide -lo' -lo* 4.T' N.,
and longitude 3' 1' VA" E. from Washington. The popni.ition of llie city
In 1S70 was 02<),3n. Tlie ishiiid is I'JJ M. long, juid 1 -'J M. wide (con-
taining *22 sfiuare M.), and is bounded on the W. by the Hudson River,
on tlu! E. by the East River, on the N. by Harhni River and Simyten
Dnyvil Creek, while ils S. end looks out on llie Ray of New York, 'i'he
lower jiart of the islanil consists of alluvial deposits, l»ut low, rocky ridges
are fouml in the central l>'irt, which ascend to tlie clilfs of Washington
Heights on the N. The city extends for 5-0 M. N, from the Battery,
and the district above the densely settled streets is studded with villas,
public and charitable buildiJigs, an<l market-gardens. The grand avenue
called Broadway luns from the lower end of the island to the Central
Park, beyond which th»( broad and costly lioidcvard conducts to tlie N,
end. The city is In id out somewhat irregularly from the i-attery to 14th
St. (2i M.), but beyond that line a succession of straight, i>arallel streets
extend from river to river, and are crossed at ri'.;ht angles by broad ave-
nues runidng lengthwise of the island. The Bay of New York is one of
the most ])icture.s(pit! in the world, and all'ords a safe anchorage for the
largest commercial tleets and the great vessels of the; V. .ropean steamship-
lines. The iimer harbor is enterc(l through a deej) strait called the Nar-
rows, which is defended by the most powerful anil imiiosing fortifications
and arniamenls in iho Western worhl.

The site ()♦■ New York was discovered by tlie Florentine iii.iriiier, Verrnzzani, in
the year ir)J4. Tlic harbor was again visittil hy llfiidrick Hudson, coiinuaiidiiiK
ft vessel of the Dutch Kast India (.'oniiiany (Sept. .'{, HiO'.i), and lioni the scene of
wa.ssail and iniTrinieiit whicii f<ilIow<><; the meeting of the .sailoi-s and the natives,
the Indians named tlic island Mardiattan (" the idace where they all got driudc ").
Hudson then ascended the river since named in his honor to ihe site of Albany,
and claimed the land, by right of discovery, as an apjianage of Holland, under
the name of the New Netherlan<ls. In Kil-i a Dutch colony came over, and built
4 houses ami a fort I'near the i)res('nt Dowling (Jreen), naming the place New Am
sterdam, in honor of that city which had taken the foremost jmit in the eider-
Itrise. In 1()(>4, Peter Sluyve.saiit being (.;a)itain-lieneral and the place having
about 1,800 inhabitants. King Charles II. of Englan(' granted all the land from the
Connecticut to the Delaware Hiver to his brother, the Duke <if York, and an
English fleet under Capt. Nichols caiitureil New Amsterdam and named it New
York. A Dutch fleet retook the place in 1073 (the iRij-idation being about 2,500),
but it was soon restored to England by treaty. Gov. Hir Edmund Andros was
ousted by the peopl(> (a few years later), and .Facob Loisler took his place, and
ruled amid the trials and terrors of bitter political struggles and sanguinary in-
vasions from Canada. In 17<i(» tlie city had about 0,000 iidiabitants ; in 170-J the
first free grannnar school wasopeneil ; in 1711 a slav-market was ojiened in Wall
St. ; ill 1725 the AVw I'ocA; ^'(fcc<^f was established ; and in 17:i2 a chis.sical academy
was founded. The commerce of the city increased rapidly, and its merchants
took a bold and decided stand against the unjust aggressions of Parliament. The
American army under Washington occui>ied the city in 1770, but the British troo]is
who had abandoned Boston landed on Long Island, and after a severe battle near
Brooklyn, Washington was forced to retreat. Other actions at White Plains an^l
King's Bridge resulted in great damage to the Americans, and New York was lett
in the hands of the British, who occupied it for seven years. Part of the city wa^

NEW VOKK ( ITV

Rnulf r,f. 320

i
i

burnt, part of it wt« turned into Imrrm-kM, hoxpitnU, nml pri ions, nml thoii«nn<l.^
of Americans wen' conllned on (l<>atini{ hulks in ttif Kiist Uivfr. Nov. Zfi, IT^ii,
tlip British left, and WftshinKtoiiimd thf(5ovcninr of flu- State cntrrcfl in triuinpli,
Tlio MrHt Ffderiil Conjjn'ss met Ikto, nnd here, in 17X1', Wn«hiii;^ton wiw iimuKU-
rat«'<i Pn-sidiMit (tilt- rity tlim liaviiu M.S.OOi) inhabitants ; in iso'i it liad (H,4hi)).
Thoilrst stfainiT was |iut fin tiic Iliidsnii in IS07, and thf Kru' Canal was rim\-
pletcil in 1SJ5, ami ' nplcndid ( •iidiratiniH in thf lity and Staff, (la.-* was intro-
din'oi' in l^'I') ; in ISltJ tho Asiatic chol* ra i airicd olf i,:i«i:» persons ; in l,s;ij a
jjrfat Mn- dt'stroyed ."« 20,0(io,(»0() wortii of iirnpcrfy ; and in is:i7 tiie ^rcat llnan<'ial
crisi.s niiin'd thousands. Tin' Croton Ai|Ucduit was tvinipletnl in 1K12, and a
flit' in l.si,''» caused a li>ss of ^T.Oiio.noo. Tiie city lias >;rown rapidly Hinco tho in-
1 induction of tlie railway system, and the most remoti* parts of the .States am
reached by Its immcnso lines f>f track. Scores of oce.in-steaniers and Meets of
packet-sliips lirin^i in tlu; jiroducts of all otiier continents, and bear away full
car^^'oes of Vt'esfern ^,'rain, or the nianufaclures of tlie Middle and K.isteru Slates.
In IS-JO New York had li';t,7ot{ inhabitants; in ISJO. :UJ,710 , in isr>0, RliJ.cno ;
ami in l.S7(), (fjci,:;!!. 'riierc .ire but two larK'er cities (l^ondori .ind Pari.") in Chris-
tendom, and if tiic iiopidation of tho closedyini^ suburbs of IJn oklyn, Willianis-
bur^, and .Jersey City wore added to that of New York, it would be the Hixth city
in the worlil.

Tae Battery in ;i ]>!iik .at the H, cud of Manh.ntt.in Tsliuid, cnntaitiing
10.^ acMX-s, and .idonicd with largo trees and verdant lawns. The water-
front is pecnrod l>va sea-wall of massive inasonrv, above which is a bro.ad
j)roTneiiade which afVords a<lniir.iblo * views of tho TJay. The popidoius
heights of Rrool<lyii are in the E., witli riovcnior's Island nearer at hand,
on which tho high walls of Castle William are seen, with the onih.ank-
nients of the less iini';)sing hut more i)owerfnl Fort rolumhus, u star-fort
monntiiig 120 heavy eannon. Ellis and Dedloe's Islands .are sov.n farther
down the harhor, with tho long hill-ranges of Statcn Isl.and beyond, nnd
Jersey City on the \V The cnrious round strui turc on the Battcrj' was
built for a fort (" Ca.stle Clinton "\ in 1807, was e-ded to the city in 1823,
and was the scene of the civic rL\,.i)Ui)ns of the Maniuis Lafayette, Gen.
Jack.son, President Tyler, and oiliers. It then became an opcra-hou.se,
where Jenny Lind, Sontag^, Parodi, .Tnllien, Mario, kc, m.adt! their .aj)pear-
ance. The building is now tised as a depot for immigrants, who are here
received from their ships, and from which they are sent to their desti-
nations. From Whitehall, on the E. of the Battery, tho Staten- Island,
South, and Hamilton (Brooklyn) ferry-boats start, besides several horse-
car and stage lines. Boatmen maybe cngageil here for trips in the harbor.
From this point South St. follows the East River shore for over 2 M.,
pas.shig the ferries to the Long Island cities, and the piers at which lie
Imndreds of stately packet and clipper ships, and humbler coasting-craft.
Sowling Green, the cradle of New York, is Just N. of the Battery. Near
by, Fort Atnsterdam was built in 1635, and in 1770 an e(piestrian statue
of King George III. (of gilded lead) was set up on the Green. In 177G the
statue was overthrown by the people, and taken to Litchfield, Conn.,
where it was melted into (42,000) bullets. West St. runs N. along the
Hudson River shore for over 2 M. from the Battery, passing the ])iers of
hundreds of steamers and the ferries to the New Jersev .shore. The liousu

?>^0 noufc r>!.

NKW YORK CITY

\*l

N«>. 1 nroa(lw.»y was built in 17<)0, nud has .survod us tlic bead ((uartcrs of
Lord Howe, Uen, Clinton, Lord Connvallis, aid Cmu. Wasiiiugton. Tul-
loynind onco lived i:; this liouso, and Fulton ili»'(l iilon;;sidi', it. Benedict
Arnold lived at No. 5 Rro.it'way, and Gen. (la^e lu'id liis head quarters at
No. 11. A short dist.'uu-o ahove Iho CJrecn is * Trinity Church, a nolije
Gothic bu! linf: of lirown stone, witli asjiire tiS4 It. hij-di. Tlio interior is
1I>'2 ft. ion(» ami OO ft. hiudi, witli a decj) eliancd lij^hted by a Hnpcrb
window, and with massive eoluiniis s^'parating the nave fn>n» the aisles.
The elmreh is oj)en all the week, and \he ascent of the spire (H08 steps ;
small fee to the sexton) fhould be made for the sake of. the * view froid
the to)>. To the S. is tin- nolde liarbor with its (loets and fortified islands
and the fair villages of Staten Island in the distance; to t lie W.. across tiia
Hudson, arc tiersey City, Newark, J'erf;en, and Kli/alicth; and U}>-river
fniJU Jersey City ar<' lloboken and Weehawken, with the J'alisadcs and
the distant blue Highlands in the N. The thronj^'ed and brilliant Broad-
way runs N. E. for 2 M. to Grace Church, and tiie ^'r<'al mass of the city
is seen on either hand ; while tlu; course of East Kiver may be followed
from abtne Hlacuwell's Isl.-iinl l)y Flushing, Astoria, and Greenpoint-, to
Brooklyn and Greenwood. Directly below is tlie crowded Wall St., along
whose line ran the wallj of New Amsterdam. There is a large and ven-
erable graveyard about the churcl:, in which are buried Alexander
ILiniiltr'i, Ca)U. Lawrence (of the Cln'sapejikc). and other noted men,
while in one corner is a stati-Jy Gothic monument to the i)atriots who died
in the British priso:i-sliii:s. Trinity Society is the ohlest in New York,
and the first edilice on the jn-esent site was built in IGUt). In 1705 Queen
Anr.e gave it a li'ie comniuiU(Ui servii;e (still ])reserved), and also a large
tract of land on Manhattan Island, which has since so increased in value
that this church is the richest in America ("^aid to l)-" worth over $ 10,0U0,
000), and spends inunense sums annually iu benefactions r.aiong the poor
of New York, besides supi)orting a considerable body of clergy and a choir
wliich is unsurpassed in the country. There are morning and eveninoj
prayers daily in the church ^9 A. M. and 3 P. M.), with impo.sing choral
services on Sunday. The clunie of bells in the steeule is the finest, in
America.

Wall St. runs E. from Trinity (. inuvh, rnd is the resort of bankers and
brokers, and tho linancial centre of the republic. At No. 13 the visitors,
gallery of the JStuck Exchmiyc may be entered, and at about noon affords
an e.vciting view of the busy whirl below. The stately U. S. Sub-
Treasury is on the comer of Wall and Nassau, on the site of the hall in
which Washington was inaugurated first President of the U. S. (1789). It
is built in partial imitation of the Parthenon at Athens, w^ith Doric colon-
nades and classic pediment, and a lofty interior rotunda, supptnted by
16 eicganl Corinthian (olumns. It is of Massi'chusettd marble (with

*^ a

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NKW YORK rrTY

liouieni. r?3i

111 est 111

tors tiiui

|visitors,

aiVorJs

Sub-

Ihall in

i9). It

coion-

iiied by

(D^ath

graiiltu roof), aiil took 8 years in l)nil(>iiig, costiii,'/ .? 2,000,000. (Visitors
.^!lInILt^Hl, 10-3 o'clock.) Hroad St., the hoiiip of Hpcnilators mul brnktM's,
IpadsnfTlo tlie S. from the Treanury, wliiU; mnninr^ N. is the busy Nassau
St., on v.'Iiich (two sqiiaips distant) is a quaint oM edifice, which \va.H
linilt, 1723- 0, for the ^^d(lh^ Dutch ( 'Iinti'h, and was used durini^ the
devolution as a prisr.ij for Americans, and a ridijit,'-seliool for iWitish
Cftvalryineii. It was useii as a elnirch n,;;ain from 1781 until 1Si4, when it
was botiLdit, and has since been nsiid for a jiostoflino. Near the Treasury
aretln-prtat bankin^vliousrs of TIenry Ch^ws & Co., Flsk k. Hatch, Jay
f'ookt! k Co., Duncan k SherinaM, kc, while ojipositt! the Treasury Is
the superb Drexel buildii.;.; (l)uilt in the Ueiiaissance style at a cost of
gi 700,000). Still farther down Wall St. is the U. S. Custom House, a
massive buildint^' of granite, Tiiarl)le, and iron, ori^^-inally built for a
Merchants' Kxchan-,'e, at a cost of .'$1,800,000. ft is 200 ft. long, and has
a portico of 18 Ionic columns, while a dome 121 ft. hij^h overarches a
rotunda f^urrouiided hy 8 rich Corinthian columns of Italian marble, and
<!ai)ab|e of containing .'{,(tOO persons. Tiie elegant Bank of New York is
opposite the Custom House, and just below is Pearl St., the Rcene of a
heavy v/holesaie tratle in cotton and other staples. A ferry runs from the
foot of Wall St. to Montague St., Brooklyn, lielurning to Broadway, the
immense buihlings of the Bank of the Republic, he Metropolitan Bank,
the F^ipiitabie Life Ins. (Jo. (137 ft. high), and others are i>assed. Fulton
St. tucnsoff to the r. at the busiest i)art of Broadway, and leads to Fulton
Ferry, pas^sing " old North Dutch Church, and the Fulton Market.
St. PatU's Church (Fpis.), on the 1. of Broadway, was built in 170*5, and
has a statue of St. I'aul on its oefliment, v.ith a mural tablet in the front
wall over the remains of Gen. Montgomery. Oj)posite the church is the
llondly ornamented Bark Dank and the extensive and elegant Jlerald
liuildini/, standi. ig on the site of Barnuni's Museum (which was burnt in
18(55). The long and simple gr.^nito front of the Astor Ifouse cotne.s next,
or Broadway (on tao 1.), with Vesey St. diverging to the 1, and leading to
the great Washington Miirkrt, with its rude and unsightly sheds fille«l
with a rare disjday of the fruits and vegetables, meats and fish, of the
adjacent districts. PaiK Row stretches olT obli([uely to the r. from the
Astor Hoe .e to Printing H(>'ise S<iuare, with its bronze .statue of Franklin.
ThiS vicinity is one of the great intellectual centres of America, and here
are seen the oflices of the Jfemld, Timps, Tribune, Warl^l, San, Tchf/rmn,
News, I'j.rprcss, JJay Btxik, Evening Mail, Journal, Sfo/Us Zeitung (aP.
daily papers, besides a shoal of weeklies.) The Christian Union, Inde-
pendent, Nation, and other able papers, are published in Park Place. By
turning from Printing House Square down Frankfort St., Franklin Square
is reached, with the vast and imposing publishing house of the Harpers.
Chatham St., the prolongation of Park Row, is the home of Jew trades-

332 Route 51.

NEW YORK CTTY.

H \.

men, mock auctions, and old-clcthes shojis. At the S. cud of tlic City
Hall Park, and opposite the Astor House, is the new * U. S. Post-Office,
a stately and immense granite building, with lofty Louvre donn's and a
frontage (on Broadway) of 340 ft. The architecture is Doric and Renais-
sance, the grr.nite columns and blocks being cut and carved ready for their
places (by (500 men) at T)ix Island, on the coast of Maine, and ihe building
is al)solutely incombustible. The])asom('nt and first floor will be reserved
for the Post-Office, the second and third floor for the U. S. Courts, and 12
elevators will keep up communications. The City Hall is N. of the Post-
OfTice, and is a fine building of Massachusetts niarldc, 216 ft. long an<l
105 ft. broad, with Ionic, Corinthian, and composite pilasters lining its
front. I is snnnounted by a fine clock-tower, which is illuminated at
night. The City Hall was nine years in building, and cost )§ 700,000. N.
of this edifice is the new Court House, a massive and magnificent marble
building, in Corinthian architecture, 250 ft. long, and completely fire-
proof. It was commenced in 1801, the expense being estiinated at
$ 800,000, but the infamous Tammany Ring having gained control in the
city, .f 5 -(5,000,000 was (nominally) spent on the Court House. The
elegant Corinthian portico on Chandlers St., the loftj and graceful ilome,
and other details of the plan, have not yet been completed. Opposite the
Court House is the great marble building devoted to A.. T. Stewart's
wholesale trade (shawls, silks, and dry goods), standing on the site of a
British fort of 1776-83. Passing up Broadway, with immense and'costly
buildings on either side, and similarly lined streets running off to r. and 1.,
the brilliant windows, the throngs on the sidewalks, and the roar of the
street cause constant surj^rise. On the r. is the " Bloody Sixth " Ward
(bounded by Broadway, Canal, Bowery, and Chatham Sts.), with its dense
and dangerous population; its filth, poverty, and crime. By turning
down Leonard St. (to the r.) the city prison, called the Tombs, is reached.
It is built massively in the gloomiest and heaviest form of Egyptian
architecture, and is usually well filled, wlule in the interior of the (quad-
rangle is the place of executions. A short distance beyond, at the inter-
section of Baxter, Park, and Worth Sts. , is 'he Fire Points, formerly the
most terrible locality in the citj and republic, but now somewhat im-
proved by the aggressions of religious missions. In this vicinity are th.e
crowded and reeking tenements, the narrow and filthy alleys, the unspeak-
able corruption and utter depraA ity of the sIutus of the Empire City. It
is well to be accompanied by a i)oliceman during a visit to this district,
both to insure personal safety arid to learn ndimte details.

Advancing up Broadway, Walker St. is seen on the 1., leading to the
Hudson River R. R. T)epot, wliose Hudson St. front is sunnounted by
the largest bronze gn i]-)S in the voi-ld (emblematic of Vanderbilt's career).
TTie ancient Chapel St. John ;Vonts the depot, which was built on St.

NEW YORK CITY.

Ruutc 51, 333

John's Park. Passing now the superb wliite nuirlik' N. Y Life Ins.
Building (Ionic arcliitecture) and the Brandreth House, tlie wide Canal
St. is crossed. Lord and Taylor's vast wholesale store, the St. Niciiolas
Hotel, Applctoii's bc/okstore, and liall, Black & Go's, jewelry store are
passed on the 1., with tiie Prescott and Metropolitan Hotels on the r. A
little way beyond the Grand Central Hotel (on the 1.), a side street leads
W. to Washington Scpiare, laid out on the old Potter's Field, where over
100,000 bodies are burie<l in trenches. On one sid<3 of the Square is the
New York University (founded in 1831), a fine marble building 200 ft.
long, in Engli.-h collegiate architecture, with a large Gothic window light-
ing the chapel. Above the Grand Central Hot'd, Astor Place leads oflF
obliquely to the r. to the Mercantile Library (95-100,000 volumes) ia
the old Astor Place Opera House. Close by, on the S., in Lafayette
Place, is the Astor Library (open 9-5 daily), in two lofty halls in a
large Romanes(iue building. The library was endowed with $ 400,000 by
Jolm Jacob Astor, and has over 100,000 volumes, besides rare oM books
and considerable departments in the European languages. The Bible
House (at the end of Astor Place) is an immense structure, six stories
high, covering ^ of an acre, with 700 ft. frontage, and containing 600 oper-
atives. It cost $300,000, and is ihe property of the American Bible So-
ciety, and besides the vast numbers of Bibles issued from its presses, there
are 13 religious and philanthropic papers published in the budding. Since
1817 this society has put in circulation 9,000,000 Bibles and Testaments,
in 24 languages. Opposite the BiWe House is the Cooper Institute, a
brown-stone building occupying an entire s(iuare, which was founded and
endowed by Peter Cooper, of New Y^ork. It has a great library and read-
ing-room, with courses of lectures and special studies, nearly all of wduch
are free to the people. Stuyvesant Place leads N. E. from the Institute,
passing St. Mark's Church (Epis. ), whiclihasthe tombs of the Dutch Cap-
tain-General Stuyvesant (died 1(582), the British Governor Sloughter, and
the American Governor Tompkins. At the end of the Place is the ele-
gant yellow sandstone building of the N. Y. Historical Society, with a
rich historical library of 20,000 volumes, collections of antiquities, a pic-
ture gallery, and museums of Nineveli marbles and Egyptian curiosities.
Cole's "Course of Empire " paintings are in this art gallery.

On Broadway, corner of 10th St., is Stewart's vast dry-goods store,
with 15 acres of flooring, said to be the largest store in the world. Grace
Church and Rectory are now seen on the r., costly and elegant b uldings
of marble, in the most llorid Gothic architecture. The lofty and graceful
spire is much admii'ed, and the interior of the church, with 40 stained
windows, light columns and arches and carvings, has a theatrical splendor.
At this point Broadway bends to the 1., and soon reaches Union Square,
a pleasant oval pai'k, with green lawns and shrubbery, and a large popu-

334 Route 51.

NEW VOllK CITY.

? I-

i M
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lation of English sparrows. On the E. is a colossal equestrian statue of
Washington, whicli is much admired, and on the W. is a bronze statue of
Lincoln. The Scjuare is lined with line liotels and stores, although it was
formerly the most aristocratic part of the city. University Place runs S.
from Union Square, passing the N. Y. Society Library (near 12th St. ;
foumied 1700 ; 38,000 volumes) and tlie Union Theological Seminary (near
8th St. ; with 6 professors and 100 students), to the N. Y. University.
14th St. runs E. by the elegant St<^inway Hall, the Academy of Music,
Grace Church Chapel, and Tammany Hall.

4th Avenue runs N. from Union Stjuare. To the r., down 16th St., is
Stiiyvesant Scjuare and St. George's Churcli (Epis.), a large and elegant
edifice of brown-stone, in Kumunesciue architecture, with a richly frescoed
ceiling 100 ft. above the tloor, a spacious chancel, twin spires (245 ft.
high), and a tine rectory (the home of S. IL Tyng, D. D.). Farther up
4th Ave. (corner of 20th St.) is the Church of All bonis (Dr. Bellows ;
Unitarian), a curious structure in Italian architecture, with alternate
courses of brick and light-colored Btone. On the next corner is the Cal-
vary Church (Epis.), a Gothic building of brown-stone, and near by is St.
Faul's Church (Meth. ), of white marble, in Romanesque architecture.
On the corner of 4th Ave. and 23d St. is the Young Men's Christian Asso-
ciation building, a large and costly structure of brown and Ohio stone, in
the Renaissance architecture, and including a line library, reading-rooms,
parlors, a gynmasium, and a public hall. Stra igers will meet a kindly
welcome here. Opposite the Y. M. C. A. is the elegan'^ * National
Academy of Design, built of gray and white marbles and blue-stone, in
the purer Gothic forms of the 12th century, with certain features copied
from the best Venetian architecture. It has an imposing entrance and
stairway, with extensive galleries, in which every spring and summer are
held exhibitions of hundreds of the recent works of the best of living
American artists (admission 25c.). On the lower lloor is the Suydam col-
lection (on permanent deposit), which includes 92 pictures by eminent
French and American artists, with a few works of the old Italian masters.
E. of the Academy (on 23d St.) are the N. Y. College of Physicians and
Surgeons, the Deniilt Dispensary, the Ophthalmic Hospital, and the Col-
lege uf t)<e City of New York (corner of Lexington Ave.). Passing W.
along 23d St., Madison Square is soon reached (3 M. from the Battery),
a bright ana fashion-favored i)ark of six acres, surrounded by palatial
hotels (5tli Ave., Hoflnian, St. James, &c. ), and adorned by a monument
to Gen. Worth. 23d St. runs thence W. to the Hudson River, passing
Booth's Theatre (corner of 6th Ave. ), with the new and imposing Masonic
Hall on the opposite corner, and the great marble Opera House on the
comer of 8th Ave. Turning to the 1. from 23d St. down 9th Ave. to 20th
St., the stone buildings of the richly endowed and llourisliing Oeneral

NEW YORK CITY.

Jiouie 51. 335

.ng W.
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Theological Seminary (Eitis. ) may be seen. BroaiUvay runs N. from
Madison Square for nearly 2 M. to the Central Park, crossing the num-
bered streets obliquely, and passing the sumptuous Stevens House (hotel
garni, corner of 6th Ave, \, Wood's Museum (near 30th St.), the Congre-
gational Tabernacle (comer of 34th St.), the Armory of the 37th Regi-
ment (corner of 6th Ave.), and long lines of fine buildings and .stores.
Fifth Avenue begins on the S. at Washington Square, and passes the Col-
lege of St. Francis Xavier (Jesuit ; corner of 15th St. and opposite the
Manhattan and the New York Club Houses), Belmont's palace (corner of
18th St.), Dr. Hall's Church (I'res. ; corner of 19th St.), the Church of
the Holy Communion (Ei)is. ; cruciform Gothic, of brown-stone, with
free seats ; corner of 20th St. and 6th Ave.), and the Union Club House
(built of brown-stone at a cost of $ 300,000 ; corner of 22d St. ). The
avenue now pa.sses tlie line of .superb hotels on the W. side of Madison
Square, and crosses Broadway diagonally. The route from Madison
Square to the Central Park by this avenue leads through the most aristo-
cratic and splendid street in America, — forming a scene of unexampled
brilliancy and beauty, especially on pleasant Smidays after moniing ser-
vice and late in the afternoon. Just off the avenue on 2oth St. is Trinity
Chapel, an elegant edifice lined with Caen stone, frescoed, with richly
stained windows, and famous for its choral services. Si. Stfjihcn's Church
(Cath. ), which has the most elegant altar in America, may be seen down
28th St., which leads off to the E. to Bellcvue Huspital and the Morgue.
On 29th St., near the avenue, is the quaint and irregidar Church of the
Transfiguration, much affected for fashionable weddings and familiarly
known as '* the little church around the corner." On the corner of 33d
St. is W. B. Astor's mansion, while on the corner of 34th St. is the superb
marble palace of A. T. Stewart, which cost S 2,000,000, and has a famous
picture-gallery.

34th St. leads W. to the Hudson, passing the turreted and embattled
buildings of the N. Y. Insiitution for the Blind. On the E. it conducts
to Park Ave., on high ground, which is underlaid by the 4th Ave. R.
R. passing through a tunnel over which are Avell-arranged parks. The
Unitarian Church of the Messiah fronts on Park Avenue, and is adjoined
by the spacious C^mrch of the Covenant ( Pres. ), built of gray-stone in
Lombardo-Gothic arcitecture. In this vicinity (corner of 4tli Ave. and
32d St.) is a vast and elegant iron building, erected by A. T. Stewart for
a home for working-women.

On the corner of 5th Ave. and 35th St. is the costly and ulti-a-ritualistic
Christ Church (Epis. ), with its renowned artistic music and its elaborate
frescoes, while the plainer Brick Church (Pres.) is on the 37th St. comer.
On 5th Ave., from 40th to 42d Sts., is the Distributing Reservoir of the
Croton Aqueduct, massively built of granite in Egyptian architecture, 44

330 Huate51.

Ni:\V VUIIK CITY.

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*, ,

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ft. liigli, 420 ft. stiaare, with an area of 4 acres and a capacity of 23,000,000
gallons. The hroad i»ron»ena(le on top is open to the public, and com-
mands extensive and pleasing views. Reservoir Sqnare is a i)rctty jiark
on the W., wliile the (French Catholic) College of St. Louis is farther
down on 42d St. Oi)po.site the Reservoir (on Sth Ave.) is the feudal-lock-
ing building of Rutgers Female College. Two squares to the E. on 42d
St. is the Grand Central Depot, the converging point of several laihvays.
It is an enormous structure of luiek and stone, covering 3 acres, and 700
ft. long, built in Renaissan».e architecture, with several lofty Louvre
domes. On llie corner of S'h Ave. and 43d St. is the Jewish Tcmpk
Kvuinucl, the eliief of the 27 synagogues of the city, and the hnest piece
of Saraceidc architecture in America. It has some features copied from
the ancient Alhanibra, and its interior is a dazzling picture of Oriental
magnificence. On the corner of 4r)th St. is the 4th Universalist Church
(Dr. Chapin's), near which is the curious front of the Ei)iscoi)al Church
of the Heavenly Rest. On 49t]i St., near the avenue, are the buildings
of Columbia Collcrje, a venerable and wealthy institution, which was
chartered (as Khig's College) by George II. of England in 1754. At the
comer of 50th St. -is the Cathedral of St. Patrick (Cath.), which is to be
the grandest church in America. It was commeneed in 1858, and is now
nearly half done ; the building oecu])ying the highest point on 5th Ave.,
and being iirndy founded on solid ledges of rock. The material is white
marble, and the architecture is tlie decorated Gothic of the 13th century.
The front is to be guarded by two marble spires, each 328 ft. high, and
adorned with statuary and rich carving.s, while the interior columns are
of marble, sui)porting a high and ornate clere-story. The lofty and ele-
gant front entrance (now coni])leted) is worthy of close inspection. N. of
the cathedral is the Catholic Orphan Asylum. The spacious Church of
St. Thomas (Epis. ) is just above (on the 1.), near which is St. Luke's Hos-
pital. At 5*Jth St. is the Scholars' Gate to the

Central Park.

In 185G tho present site of the Park was a droaiy and desolate region of swp.mpa
and ledges, dotted here and there with heaps of ruV)hish and the shanties of a
rude and degraded i)eople. In tliat year tlie woric V)egan wliieh has since given
New York the most beautiful, and one of the hirpest of the parks of tlie worhl, —
a work wliich up to tlie chisiM.f 1SG4 alone had eost 8 0,200,000. The park is a
paral'elograu), '1\ ]\I. long and h M. wide, being 5 J!. N. of the Battery, and nearly
1 M. from the rive-rs on eitlier si<le. It iuiludt's 803 acres, of which ISo are of
water, 15 M. of carriage-roads, s M. of bridle-itaths, and 'Ih IM. of walks, while
eonununication across the island iscontincd to (nnr sunken roads which pass from
E. to AV. across the i)ark and under its drive-ways. Park carriages are in wait-
ing at the lower gates, and carry visitors all tludugh the grounds, for a small sum.
There are brilliant skating-earnivals on the frozen jionds during winter, and on
sunnner afternoons (esju'cially JSuinlays) the ]iromt'nades and driveways are
thronged. The itark may be readiecl by cither of several horse-ear lines from the
Astor lIou.se and the lower jmrt of the city.

Near the Si^liolar's Gate (.^th Ave.) is the old State Arsenal, a massive

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NEW YOKK CITY.

Itoute 51. 337

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castL-llati'il building now used for tlie ofllcers of the park ami for an Art

G.illiTy, in wliich are 87 casts from the statuary works of Crawford, together

with other curiosities. A consideralde miniher of rare wihl animals and

beautiful birds are kupt in ca^^os near the building, and form the nucleus

of a Zo()logical (Jardcii. Near the Scholar's fiate is a lar;,'*; lirnnzo bust of

Humboldt, beyond which is the I'und (U acn-s), an irregular sheet of

water much favored by skaters in winter. From this gate, winding paths

and drives conduct, by graceful curves and passing picturesciue knolls and

groves, bridges and arbors, to The Mall, the chief promenade and orna-

luont of the jiark. At tin; entrance of this iiobh; esplanade are fine bronze

statues of William Sliakespeare an<l Sir Walter Scott, and other groups

and statues are seen at various points. The Mall is 1*212 ft. long and 203

ft. wide, and is bordered by double line.-' of tall trees. At the Music

Pavilion, near the upi)er end, tine band-concei-ts are given on pleasant

Wednesday and Satunlay afternoons, and at such times thj vicinity is

lilled witu a gay and varied crowd. The Mall is terminated by The

* Terrace, a sumptuous pile of architecture, with frescoed arcades and

corridors, broad i)romenades, costly and elaborate balustrades, and high

pedestals which are to be graced with symbolic statuary. Broad .stone

stairways lead down to the esj Umade by the lake-side, on which is erected

llie most elegant fountain on the continent, with bronzes and rare marbk-s

re])resenting the Angel of Belhesda. A large liotilla of pleasure-l)oats

> kept on the Ventral Lake (2U acres), and pleasant excursions may

e made with little ex})ense (tarill's regidatcd l^y the commissioners). On

he W. of the Mall is the (Jrcen, a broad lawn covering 15 acres, and

estined for a parade-ground. Near the head of the Mall (on the r. ) is the

'asino^ a neat refectory on a high knoll. Crossing Central Lalce by the

aceful Bow Bridge, The Bamble is entered, — 30 acres of copse aud

hicket and craggy hill, bounded by the lake and threaded by a labyrinth

f romantic foot-paths. The V'iue-covered and Evergreen Widks, the

tone Arch, the Grotto, and other pretty objects are foun<l in the Ramble.

u Vista Hill (to the N.) is tho C'roton Reservoir^ which covers ",1 acres,

105 ft. above tide-water, and contains 150,000,000 gallons of water.

lere are broad and far-viewing promenades on its walls of massive

asonry. Just to the N. is tlie Xew Reservoir^ covering 10t> acres and

aving a capacity of 1,000,000,000 gallons. The graceful curves of its

ore-line are bounded by lofty stone walls of immense thickness, aud

irnaniental gate-houses stand at its N. and S. ends. Just S. W. of the

ctangular (smaller) reservoir is the Belvidere, situated on high ground

verlooking the park. Above the New Reservoir is the Upper Park, less

sited and with less artificial embellishment then the Lower Park, but

ith more marked natural beauties. Passing the East and West Mjadows

e buildings of Mount St. Vincent are seen on tlie E., where a pleasant

15 V

338 Route 51.

Ni:W YOHK CI TV.

'ft; 'V

rt'foctory has been installed in tliu jilaco foniMMly orcujiiod liy u Cutliolio
Sfiiiiiiaiy. To tho E. is tluj Arljoiettim, wliiU; close l»y, on the N., is
llitriem Lake (covering l(i acres), with its bold 8. shore UikmI witli the
remains of ancient forlilic:itions. A i>ri'tty falling stream, spanned by
fivo bridges, runs \V. from the lake to a i)iclures«iue pond S. of the far-
viewing (irrat Hill, which htoks down info the ravine known in the
U(!Vobitionary era as McCJown's I'ass. 77/c liluj)' is a boM dilf which
terminates the park on the N., ami bears the remains of old forts and
lieldworks.

Frojiting on the park near the Children's date (72d St. and 5th Ave.),
is the Lenox Library, a stately marble building, costing ij 500, 000, and
designed for the reception of a museum, art gallery, Iil)rary, and lecture-
liall. Close by is the Lenox lli'spital (Presbyterian), !i <iuaint and ornato
brick and stone structure, with tall and sleuiler spires. A few rods dis-
tant (on the old Hamilton Scpiare; and built at a cost of .S !iOO,000) is the
spacious and imposing new buihlingof the Normal College, in the secular
Gothic style, with a lofty and massive Victoria tower. The Foundling
Hospital is still further E., and in ])lain sight is the J\fouiU Sinai
Hospital, a cluster of stately buildings in lOlizabethan architecture, erected
at a cost of $ 340,000. The vast German park and beer-.^arden called
Jones's Wood, is still farther E. at the river-side, and looks across on
Blackwell's Island.

From the ])oint where Broadway reaches the park (corner of 8th Ave.
and 59th St.) a grand avenue called the Boulevard, with a jiarked centre
and graceful curves, runs N. to Manhattanville and Kings Bridge. This
road passes (at 73d St. ) the extensive stone building (Gothic) of the N. V.
Orphan Asylum, wliich looks down on the Hudson. The Leake and
Watts Or])han House fronts on llOtli St., and can accommodate 250
children. Close by (on the E. )is the Morningside Park. At 115th St.
is the Bloomingdale Asylum for the Insane, with spacious buildings in
pleasant grounds. The Boulevard now leads by market-gardens and
rural villas, to the village of Manhattanville (130th St.), with the inipos-
the Convent of the Sacred Heart and of Manhattan

nig

dings

College on the hill beyond.

Environs of New York.

The High Bridge is a structure worthy of the Roman Empire. It is
1,450 ft. long, 114 ft. high, is supported on 14 piers, and h used to carry
the Croton Aqueduct across Harlem River. It is built of gi'anite, and
cost §900,000. Near this point (11 M. from the City Hall) are the
buildings of the Juvenile Asylum, while the elegant structure of the Insti-
tution for the Deaf and Dumb is to the S, W. (near l()5th St.). Just
across Manhattan Island (which is narrow at this point) is Fort Washing-

HKUOKLVX.

Unite 51. 339

Catholic
lie N., is
with tho
uiiM'd hy
the far-
•n in the
iir which
forts ami

th Ave.),

»,000, and
I li'c'ture-
,11(1 ornato

rods dis-
00) is tho
lie secular
Foundling
unt tSinai
re, erected
Icn called

across on

Sth Ave.
;ed centre
llge. This
Ithe N. y.
icake and
idate 250
115th St.
lildings in
•dens and
le impos-
auhattau

Ire. It is
to carry
[inite, and
are the
|the Insti-
.). Just
]Vashinff-

tn)i, looking ^own on the Hudson in a sucocssion of fino views. The
Ili;.?]i IJridge may be reachcil l)y the liiu-s of horse cars which (ravers*- 2d
anil .^d Aves., luit the steamers which leave Peck Slip (lli-15 times
(l.iily) for Harlem afTonl a more pleasant route. Tlicse boats j.ass up the
East River, by the immense municipal charitable and correctional buiM-
ings on IllackweU's Islavd. The entire K. water front of (he city Is passed,
Astoria is visited, and, leaving (he (uiiiultiious Hell (J.ite passage on the r.,
llu' b at ei.ters a narrower channel with WariTs Islntnl on (he r. On this
i4and are seen tho imposing and extensive buihlings (»r (he Iiufbii.itij
Asylum, together with the FiUnatic Asylum and tln^ lOndgratit Hosi)itals.
JluulalVs Idaiul cowwu. \w\i {o\\ the r.), with the House of Refuge and
other civic charities. The steamer stops at Harlnn iJridge, wheiu-e tho
Ili-di Hri<lge may be reached by smaller boats or by road.

Brooklyn, the third city of the Utdon (li'.XJ.tMiO inlialtitants), is joined
to New York by several ferries across Kast River. The bridgi; which has
lieen in process of construction for years, and which will connect the two
cities, will be the most stupendous work of the kind in llie wf)rld. The
Citjf Hall is 1 M. from the; Fulton Ferry (corner of Couitand Fulton Hts. )
a'ld is an elegant classic building of wliite marble, nearwhi(!h is the /{uujs
County Court House, })uilt of marble in Corinthian architecture, at a cost
of .$5-10,01)0. There are many other tine i)ublic buililings in the city,
while the private mansions (on Clinton Avenue, Ihooklyn Heights, it(\) aro
worthy of notice. The U. S. yanj Yard is of the first class, and covers
40 acres, with large depots of maiin'el of war, ship-houses, liarracks, kc,
wliile the Dry Dock (which cost $1,000,000) is one of the best, Scune
line vessels may be seen here, including the old line-of-battle ship " North
Carolina." The Marine Hospital (500 patients) is a tine granite building
on the Wallabout Bay, where the British i)rison-ships were anchored
during the Revolution, and where 11,500 patriot prisoners die<l. Tho
Atlantic Dock fronts toward Governor's Islaiul, and its long granite piei*s
and innuense warehouses merit a visit. The principal churches of tho
city are the Catholic Cathedral, a superli structure (now building) on the
corner of Lafayette and Vanderbilt Aves. ; the Plymouth Church (Henry
Ward Beecher) on Orange, near Hicks St. ; the Church of the Pilgrims
(Rev. R. S. Storrs, Jr.), corner of Henry and Puiiusen Sts. ; and the
Church of the Holy Trinity, corner of Clinton and Montague Sts. From
the fact of its having 233 churches, Brooklyn has won and wears tho
name of " The City of Churches.

Prospect Park (reached by horse-cars on Fulton St. and Flatbush Ave. )
is a noble rival of Central Park, covering 510 acres, and costing, since its
commencement (in 1866), §9,000,000. The Plaza is a large, paved, circu-
lar space at the entrance, with a statue of Lincoln, fountains, and flowers.
There are broad and verdant meadows, large and umbrageous gv ves,

310 ni>vkr,2. m:w youk to aliuny.

') H»'

liills coniiniiniliiig suporb views of the iJay of New York, Staten Island,
and tilt' HiKlilaiirls of tin; Hudson and the Ncversink. There is a pictu-
resfpio hike of ♦)! acres, and the romantic variety of tlie natuiiil scenery of
ihjs park, to^^'ether with its height and its fine distant views, rencU-r it
th«! pride of Ijong Ishmd. Tliere are 8 M. of drives, 4 M. of rides, and a
great nnmltcr of ranildt-s.

Greenwood Cemetery is 3 M. from Fulton Ferry (liorse-cars every 15
minutes ; strangers not admitted on Sun<lay), and is the most beautiful
cemetery in the world. It contains 212 acres of land, traversed by 20 M.
of winding patlis and driveways, and embellished with forests and lakes.
Ocean liill commands a view over the limitless sea, while Buttle Hill
overlooks New^ York and its Hay, Brooklyn, Jersey City, and the Hud-
son. Many of the monuments are of much artistic merit, and the reve-
nues of the cemetery are devoted to its ailornment.

To the E. of Brooklyn are the large cemeteries of "The Evergreens"
and "Cypress Hills,'' beyond which are the (plaint and pleasant old Long
Island towns of Flusliing ami Jamaica. Still farther E. is Roslyn
(steamer from Peck Sliji), a sweet village on Hempstead Bay, near which
is Cedarmere, the home of Bryant. Long Branch is 34 M. from New
Y'ork (by steamer from Pier 28, N. R., to Sandy Hook, and thence by
rail), and is the favorite seaside resort of the " uj)per ten." It has a
cluster of the most elegant and exj^'usive summer-hotels on the coast, and
has line bathing and driving facilities. Coney Ishmd is a favorite resort
for the great mass of the citizens, and is cpiickly reached by boat from
Pier 1, N. R., or by cars from Brooklyn. Excursions to the beautiful
hills and vast fortifications on Staten Island ; to the cities of Jersey City,
Elizabeth, and Newark ; and through Hell Gate to the island towns, will
be found b

I ■

62. New York to Albany. — The Hudson River.

The ])alati.il stoaiiiors of the day liiip to Albany leave Pier 30, N. R. (foot of
Vestry St.) at 8. :J0 a. m. The nij;ht boats leave Pier 41 (foot of Canal St.) at U
P.M. The Hudson Hiver Railroad .station is on .'JOth St., near 9th Ave. (train." to
Albany, 114 M.. in O-TjV hr.s.); the Harlem Railroad station is on 42d St.
((Jrand Central Pcpot ; tUstance to Albany, 151 M.). The day steamers will
be pieferred by the tourist, on account of the panoramic view,'! of the river-
Bcenery thereby obtained, together with the inununity from the dust and heat of
the cars.

^:^

The Hudson River was named in honor of the Dutcli mariner who first explored
it, — ascending in the yacht '■ Half-Moon " as far as the Mohawk River. It has
its rise in the Adirondack Mts., 4,0i>i' ft. above the sea, and after iie confluence
of several branches it Fort Edward, takes a southerly course to the Bay of New
York. Large steamers ascend to Troy, 150 M., and siiips can go as far as Hudson,
117 M. Vast quantities of lumber are flo.ited down the stream, while B(|uadron3
of canal-lioats an^ fretiuently ))assed, bearing coal from Peinisylvania (by the Dela-
waie and Hudson Canal to Rondout) and grain from the West (by the Erie Canal
to Albany).

^ ."- *---

aten Island,
•■ is a i»i(.-tu-
il scenery of
^8, ri'iidcr it
rides, and a

irs every 15
it beautiful
'd by 20 M.
and lakes.
Battle Hill
1 the Ilud-
J the reve-

Ivergreens "
it old Long
is Roslyji
near whieh
from New
thence by
It has a
I coast, and
irite resort
boat from
! beautiful
31'sey City,
owns, will

er.

R. (foot of
al St.) at U
. (train.- to
>n 42ci St.
iiiiiers will

the river-
ud heat of

w.\

340

Route f>

f
h

il!

hills coninianJ
and tlui Jliglil
resque lake; of
♦ Ids park, tog
the prido of I
great number

Greenwoot
niiiiut'!S ; str
cemetery in <
of winding p
Ocean Hill c
overlooks N
son Many
lines of the

To the E.
and " Cypr
Island tov
(steamer fr
is Cedarmc
Yoi'k (by I
vail), and
cluster of
lias fine b
for the gr
Pier 1, N
hills and
Elizabeth
be found

The pE
Vcstrv S
r.M. Til
Albany,
(Grand •
be jirefe
Beenery
the cars

The I
it, - as
its rise
of seve;
York.
117 M.
of cant
ware a
to Albaui/.

THE HUDSON RTVER.

Route 52. 341

.8 the great steamer passe.? out into the stream, a fine view is afforded
(if the harbor in the distance, the populous shores of Jersey City and

!oboken on the W., and the dense lines of piers and warehouses on the
e./ York shore. Above iloboken are the Elysian Fields and Castle
|lill, crowned by the Stevens mansion ; and still beyond is V^i eha K'Jccn ,
^•here Aaron Burr, the political adventurer, ^hot (in a dut'l) Alexander
flaniilton, a distinguished statesman and jurist, ".nd for years Secretary
i>f the U. S. Treasury (1804). At and above Weehawken The Palisades
fcegin to assume a bold aspect. This is a vast trap-dyke, 3- r)itO ft. high,
^vhich runs along the r. bank from Iloboken to Ilaverstraw, with a lofty,
columnar front, and masses of fragments at its base. It is less than 1 M.

i thick, and hides the Hackensack Valley from the IIn<lson. JiulVs Ferry
(W.) is a summer-resort opposite 90th St. Manhaddnrille (E.) is a vil-
lage of New York City, near which are the Lunatic Asylum and the Con-
jvent of the Sacred Heart, just above which is Carmansville, and a large
'pile of fine buildings surmounted by a <lome (the N. Y. Institution for
the Deaf and Dumb). On the same shore, atid farther N., is /''or/ ]Vnsh-
inr/ton, on a bold clilT near l^'Ah St. This was the citadel of the Ameri-
^ can fortified lines in 177(5, but was captured in November of that year,
I with its garrison of 2,G00 men. On the W. shor,. is Fort Lee, whose gar-
rison, retreating after that event, was attacked and cut to pieces by a large
Hessian force. Near this point, where the clifTs loom up grandly, the
Kmmense Palisades Hotel is seen. On Jeffrey's Hook (E. ) are the remains
)f a poAverful redoubt which was built to defend the obstructions with
Kvliich the river was filled, and near King's Bridge (by 217th St. ) were 3
JTorts, about which there was desperate fighting early in 1777. A short
listance above (!].), the mouth of Spuyten Duyvil Creek is passed.

Tliis stream is naiueil after a legoiulary Dutch trmnpetor wlio swore he wntiM

[wijn t)ie creek on his mission to tiio mainland, " in spito of tlic devil " (mi sputit

II ilniivil). lie striij^^j^led violently when iit inid-streani, },'ave one long trninpet-

)' ist, and sank. .\t the month of this creek the Indians attenipted to hoanl IluJ-

rm's vessel (,iii 150'.»), hnt after a severe eonfhet They were repnlsed and driven to

>e shore. Throuj^hont the Revolutionary War, Spuyten Duvvil was the southern

jrder of the " nertral ground," —a belt of about 30 M., wlneli was incessantly

frept hy raids and guerilla bands.

From the high promontory of the Palisades on tlie W. a road leads to

le pretty Nev/ Jersey village of Fn[/Ieirn<>d, in the fertile valley of tlio

[ackcnsaek. Above Spuyten Duyvil is the village of Riverdale, near

i^hich (E. ) is Mount St. Vincent, a convent of the Sisters of the Sacred

fearj. The castellated and towered .stone building was the Tont Hill

nansion of Edwin Forrest, and the large brick builtling\vas erected by the

^sterhood after their acquisition of the estate. Yonkers (E.) is 17 M.

["rom New York, and is a large and nourishing town at the mouth of the

Neperah River, where many New York merchants live. Hudson mado

lis second anchorage here (1600), and traded with many Indians who

342 Route 52.

TAllRYTOWN.

t:
i

•i .

f f' !

t
1

came aboanl lii.s vi'ssel. A naval battle was fought off Yonkers in
1777 between the British frigates " Rose " and " Phrrnix " and a flotilla of
American gunboats. This district constituted the ancient Philipse estate,
the manor-house .)f wliich is still standing, and with its broad halls, lofty
rooms, wainscoting, and Dutch tile.s, has a truly antique air. Part of
the manor was built in 1682, and the remainder dates from 1745, all the
walls being of scone. Mciry Philipse, the beautiful heiress of this estate,
was the first love of George Washington, and although he could not win
her, he always rememl;irt!d her fondly.

A little above Yoidvers (on the W.) is the highest point of the Palisades,
and soon Hastings is seen on the E., a prosperous village whence much
Westchester marble is shipped. Here Lord Cornwallis's liritish army
crossed the Hudson, just before Washington's retreat through the Jerseys.
1 M. above ( E. ) is Duhbs' Ferry, an ancient village at the mouth of Wis-
quacpia Creek, with ruins of old fortifications and a quaint old church.
It was named for one Dobbs, a Swede, who kept a ferry here, and some
years since a sharp controversy was raised by a well-supported but unsuc-
cessful attemjjt to change the name to Paulding. Opposite this place is
Piermont, where a jiier 1 J\I. long (on the line between New York and
New Jersey) ])rojects from the W. shore to the deep-water chaimel. A
branch of tlu' Erie llaihvay runs thence to Suffern, 18 M. W. 3 M. from
Piermont is the old village of Tappan, where Major Andre was tried and
executed (17S0), and the stone house which was Washington's head-quar-
ters and Andre's prison is still standing. At Dobl s' Ferry begins a lake-
like widening of the river called Tappan Zee (10 M. long, and 2-5 M.
wide). Near Irringtnn, above the Ferry, are several fii^e mansions, among
which is "Sunnyside," the ancient and unique home of Washington Irv-
ing. It was built in the 17th century by Wolfert Acker, who inscribed
over the door " Lust in Rust " (pleasure in quiet), whence the Englisli
settlers called it " Woifert's Roost." The eastern front is covered with
ivy, from a slip which Sir Walter Scott gave Irving at Abbotsford. Above
" Sunnyside " is the Paulding Manor, a costly building of marble, in
Elizabethan arvdiitecture, and still farther N. is Tarrytown, an ancient
village beautifully situated on a far-viewing hillside. Near this village
(the Terwe Dorj) of the 17th century) is a <|uiet valley known of old a
Slae})erigh Haven {"'S[(ni\>y lloWovf"), which has been immortalized by
Irving. Carl's W\\\, the Pliilijise Castle, and the bridge over the Pocan-
tico, are still standing, and so is the old Dutch Church, built in the 17th
century with bricks brought from Holland.

A nionunient marks the place where Andre was captured. Benedict Arnold, .i
brave American {general, had been court inartialed and reprimanded for certain
derelictions in his counnand of Philadeli>iiia, and liis luoud spirit felt the sting nl'
disgrace so keenly that he resolved to be revenged on his country. He opened a
secret correspondence with the British, and offered to surrender West Toint (t >

THE HIGHLANDS.

Route 5£. 343

wliif'li be Imcl been transfcnvd). Mji^jfir Andro, Afljiitiiiit-Cn'iioral of the British
army, went up the Tuppan Zi'<> on the slDop-nl-w ir " Vulture," find landed by
niiilit at Stmiy Point, where lie arranged with Arnold for the surrender. Hut the
"\'ulturc" was forced to retire, and Andre, attempting to pass by land to New
Yorl<, was halted in th.o neutral gromiil by a sijuad oT irre ;ular militia. IIo was
sean^hed, and thf injuTs and plans of the surrt'iidcr wprn found. Arnold escaped
to the "Vulture," ami bt-camc a Hngadier-(icne?-al in the British army, receiving
also ?30,000, but Andre, being proven a spy, was cxecuti.l amid the sorrow ot'
both armies, lie has a monument in Westminster Abbey.

Xt/nck is opposite Tarrytown, wliilo to tlie N. is Siny .*?''»,'/, on a
pleasant liillsiilo, and near the en<l of the Croton Afpioduot, which has a
fine stone arcli liere. Near tlie river are the extensive marble buildings
of the State Prison, which were erected by the convicts, and stand in
grounds covering 130 acres. The place is usually overflowing with
prisoners, who are guard*. d by sentinels and patrols. Opposite Sing Sing
(meaning " Stony Place ") is Verdritege Hook or Point-no-Point, on
whose upper slope is Rockland Lake, from which New York gets 200,000
tons of ice yearly. Teller's (or Croton) Point, with its rich ''ineyards, is
now approached, and the mouth of Croton. River is seen. 6 M. \\\t this
river is a dam 210 ft. lotig, 40 ft. high, and 70 ft. thick at the bottom,
which forms a lake of 400 acres with 40 ft. of water (500,000,000 gallons).
From this point a closed acjueduct of stone and brick carnes the water
parallel with the Hudson fer nearly 40 M. to the great reservoirs in the
Ciiutral lark, New York. The aqueduct discharges 60,000,000 gallons
daily, with a down grade of 13^ inches to a mile, and the whole work cost
.$14,000,000.

The Highlands loom up boldly in front as the steamer crosses the
beautiful Haverstraw Bay to the village of Ilavcrsirav) (W.), with the old
stone mansion on Treason Hill, where Arnold and Andre met. Abjve is
a line of limestone cliffs which have produced 1,000,000 bushels of lime
yearly. 3 M. above (W. ) is the l)old and picturesque promontory of
Stony Point, with Verplanck's Point opposite.

Both these places were fortilie I early in the Revolution, and were captured V»y
the British army in .June, 177'.>, indicting a severe blow on the Amcriciii-.s from
the loss of such a strategii; itosition. Stony Point was f<U'tilicd by earthworks and
abatis, and well garrisoned, yet (ieii. Wayne bogge<l permission to attack it, saying
to Washington, "General, I'll storm hell, .f you '11 only plan it." With two small
columns of picked men (of the 5th Penn. Infantry), on the night of July 15th, Mad
Anthony Wayne carried the fort at the jioint of the bayf)net, under a heavy fire of
nmsketry and grape-shot. Wayne was shot in the head, but, being borne into the
captured works, sof)n recovered, and after cannomiding Fort Fayette, on Ver-
planck's Point, he dismantled and abandoned the fort. The lighthouse stands
on the site of the oM mag;'/'.ine.

3 M. from Stony Point (W. ) is Caldwell's Landing, at the foot of the ab-
rupt and imposing Dunderberg (Thunder Mt.), which was anciently be-
lieved to be the home of malicious imps who hurled fierce tempests out on
the river. Opposite Dunderberg is Peekskill, at the mouth oi a creek which
w as ascended long ago by Jan Peek, a Dutch mariner, who was so pleased

344 Rmitc 52.

WEST POINT.

' )

I ■

■\l

• \

['I (

with its fertile shores that he named it Peek's Kill, and settled there. Fort
Independence crowned tlie hill above the village during the Revolution, and
here Gen, Putnam had his headquarters, and " tried as a spy, condcmncil
as a spy, and executed as a spy," the Englishman, E<lmund Palmer (1777).
An ancient church (built in 1767) and the venerable Van Cortlandt
mansion are worthy of visiting.

Bending to the W. at Peekskill, the Hudson enters that part of its
course called tJie Race, and passes through the beautiful Highlands, which
were conijiared by Chateaubriand to " a largo bouquet tii.-d at its base witli
azure ribbon." From Peekskill t Newburgthe steamer passes through ;i
panorama of river-scenery unexcelled in the world. Dunderberg on lliu
1. confronts on the r. Anth(my\H Nose,

This b( id liill (1,12S ft. lii^'li) is named after Anthony Van Corlear, Gov. Stuyves-
ant's tniiiiiu'tcr. ".lust at tiiis inoineiit tlio illustrious sun, breaking in all l\is
splendor from hcliiiid one of tlie liigli cliHs of tlic Hijihlamls, did dart one of liis
most i)otent beams full ujion the effiilL,'ent nns(! of the sounder of brass. The
reflection of which shot straightway down, hissing hot, into the water, and killed
a mighty sturgeon that was sporting besitje the vessel. When this astonishing
miracle came to be niatle known to Peter Stuyve.sant (the governor), he, as may
well be supitosed, marvelled exceedingly ; ancl as a monument thereof, gave the
name of Anthony's Nose to a stout promontory in the neigiiborhood."

^bove Anthony's Nose is the romantic Brockeu Kill, while opposite is
the grape-abounding lona Island. Nearly opposite is the old Poplope.i
Kill, with some remnants of Forts Montgomcrij (N.) and Clinton (S.), on
the promontories at its mouth. These works, together with a massive
chain and boom across the river, defended by a fleet of gu?iboats, were
intended to clo.se the Hudson agaiiy^t the British. But Sir Henry Clinton
advanced in Oct., 1777, marching over the Dunderberg, and after a sharp
skirmish at Lake Sinnij^ink (still called Bloody Pond) his forces invested
the forts. After a long struggle in the fog, during which the British fleet
moved up the river, the overpowered garrisons gave way and fled to the
hills, having lost 300 men. The American gunboats were then destroyed
by their crews, and the British broke away the chains and ol)struction3 in
the river (which had cost Congress »$ 250,000).

The Hudson now turns to the N., and Buttermilk Falls are soon seen on
the 1., near which is the fashionable and favorite Cozzens' Hotel. 1 M.
above is the U, S. Military Academy at West Point. This place was
fortified by Pansons's Conn, brigade in 1778, and was then called "the
Gibraltar of America." Wasldngton recommended the location of a
national school here, and in 1812 the school was established, since which
the officers of the regular army have been educated here. There are
barracks for the 250 Cadets, with riding-school, chapel, hospital, &c. The
academy building is an extensive stone structure, in Gothic architecture.
There are various trophies (of artillery, &c. ) about the grounds, and a
library of 15,000 volumes in the main building. Kosciusko's Garden is a

XEWBUm;.

Jioutc 52. 345

seen on

1 M.

Ice was

'' the

b of a

which

ire are

The

lecture.

and a

m is a

l)eantifnl hanging garden approached from tlie phaiii by Flirtation Walk,
and contahiing a marble monument to the heroic Poli.sh chieftain, who
was wont to read and meditate here. Near the head of Flirta.ion Walk
is a monimient to the troops wlio were massacred in the Everglades of
Florida, in 1835. Fmt Putnam is on the summit of Mount Indopendence,
a.vl commands fine views from its ancient and ruinous bastions. The
Siefje Battery is a practical work near the river. The Cadets are chosen
l)y the national Congressmen and, after i-emaining here four years, enter
the U. S. Army Jis seconddieutenants. The discipline is very strict, and
(luring July and August of each year the corps goes into camp.

Oi)posite West Point is Sugar Loaf Mt., under whose sliadow is the
Robinson House, Arnold's head-quarters, and the Beverly Dook, whence
he escaped to the " Vulture." Passing ("onstitution Island, on the E. is
seen Cold Sp.irj, a pretty village near which is '' Undercliff," the fonner
liome of the poet Morris. Mt. Taurus looms up on the r., and is named
from a certain wild bull who was once the terror of the countryside, until
he was hunted out and broke liis neck on the next hill (X.), since called
Breakneck Hill (1,187 ft. higli). On the W. bank, just above West Point,
is CVo'-iVe«< (1,418 ft. high), which is sei)arated from Boterberjj by the
picturesque Vale of Tenq)e, whei"e some part of the scene of " The Culprit
Fay " is laid. Boterberg (otherwise called Butter Hill and Stonn King)
is a bold and imposhig mountain 1,529 ft. high, at whose northern slope
is the pretty village of Cornwall. " Idlewild,'' the home of N. P. Willis,
i; tear Cornwall, beyond which the decadent village of New Windsor is
seen.

Newburg {Orange Hotel) is a 1)usy city of over 15,000 inhabitants, built
on tlie steep slope of a higli hill, and showing finely from tlie river. There
are many pretty villas on the heights, and a few very neat churclies, while
tlie water-front is lined with warehouses. The city has somo manufac-
tories, and a considerable country trade, while imnnnse quantities of coal
are brought here from Pennsylvania (by a branch of the Erie Railway
running up the Quassaic Valley to Greycourt, 19 M. distant), and shipped
to all parts of the H'dson Valley.

S. of Ncwhurg is the old Hasbrnnck Mnnsinn, an antique stone house which
was Wasliini,'ton's liea(l-<iuartors in 1783, wliile the Continental army was oncami)e(l
li(!ieto watch the liritisli at Now York. Certain liigli oHiceis of tiic army, dou'ot-
iiij^tiie feasibility of a roimblic, circulated a-.i address to that effect, and (indirectly)
offered to make Wasliinuton King of America. The noble Virginian spurned tlie
proposal, anil after he had delivered au cirnest address to a couueil of otlicers tiiey
resolved unauiuiously, " That the oflieiMs of th(^ American army view with abhor-
rence, and reject with disdaiu, the infamous proposition contained in a late auony-
nious address to the ulliccrs of the army."

A steam-ferry crosses the river from Newburg to Fishkill-on-the-Hud-
son, on a fertile plain N. of the S. Beacon Hill (from which noble views
are afforded ). The manufacturing village of Matteawan is about 1^ M.
15*

rr'Tc

• }

346 Route 52.

POUGIIKEEPSIE.

distant, and the ancient Dutch town of Fishkili is 5 M. to the E. 2 M.
N. E. of the river village (the Landing) in the Verphmck IIou.se, once the
head-quarters of Baron Steuben, and the placo where the Society of tlio
Cincinnati was formed (in 1783). As tlie steamer passes N,, there are line
retrospects of Boterl)er}i:, Breakneck Hill, and the Matteawan antl Shawan-
gunk Mts. On the W. bank, opposite the village of Low Point, is a rocky
platform which was named "the Devil's Dance-Chamber" by Hendrick
Hudson, after seeing there a midnight pnw-wow of painted Indians.

But Knirkcrbockor, <lescribiii}:; Gov. Stnyvesiint's voyage, says,* " Even now I
have it or tlio i)oiiit of my ]ici) to iclatt!, how his rrew was most horribly frij^'lit-
enc.'d, on ^'oing on shore above llio IIij;hian(ls, l>yaganf,'of merry, roystoring devils,
frisking and curvoting on a huge Hat rock wliich jirojected into the river, and
whicli is called the iJuyvell'a Dans Kamer to this very day."

New Handnirg, and Barnegat (on the E. shore), Hampton, Marlborough,
and Milton (on the W. shore), are small river-villages, which are passed
during the next 15 M. Foughkeepsie {Moryan Ilonsc) is a city of 17,(K)0
iidiabitants, situated on the E. bank, 75 M. from New York. It was
settled by the Dutch in 1698, and its name is derived from the Indian
Apokeepsing ("safe liarbor"). It is situated on a^plateau above the
r'ver, and has Pome good public buildings and famous schools, with a
large and Jucrative country trade from the rich farm-lands of Dutchess
County. About 2 M. from the city (horse-cars run all the way) is Vassar
College, the largest and most renowned female college in the world. It
occupies a range of imposing biuldings secluded amid extensive grounds,
and has about 400 students, who pursue the higher classical and scientific
studies, and receive degrees in due form. Among the distinguished resi-
dents of Poughkeepsie are Benson J. Lossing, the historian ; A. J. Davis,
the head of the Spiritualist sect (sometimes called *' The Poughkeepsie
Seer") ; and Prof. S. F. B. Morse (died in 1872), one of the orighiators
of the electric telegraph. • i

Ncio Pallz is opposite Poughkeepsie, and 5 M. above (E.) is the hand-
some village of Hyde Park, named after Sir Edmund Hyde, a near rela-
tive of Queen Anne, Avho was an early Governor of New York. This land
was bought and named by his private seti jtary. The village is near a
sharp bend in tlie river, called by Dutch " Krom Elleboge " (crooked
elbow), and now known as Crom Elbow. 1 M. above is " Placentia," the
former home of James K. Paulding, the essayist and satirist, and Secre-
tary of the U. S. Navy (1839-41). The river-banks are now low and un-
picturesque, but an air of rich rural peace pervades the country-side, and
handsome villas are seen on the banks, Astor's mansion (W,), Esopus
Island, and Staatsburg (E. ) are passed, with the majestic blue peaks of
the Catskills drawing nearer on the N. Port Eiven and Rondout, on the
W., are busy towns, with large foreign populations engaged in the manu-
facture of cement and the transfer of coal, which is brought here in im-

1 1

CLEUMONT.

Route 52. 347

mouse quantities over the Delaware and Hudson Canal. 2 M. iidaiid, on
Esopus Creek, is Kingston, which was settletl by the Huguenots in 1G()5,
and was sacked and burned by Gen. Vaughan, with 3,000 British troops,
in 1777. The first constitution of New York was formed in a legislative
session at Kingston (1777), and here Vanderlyn, the artist, was bom
(1776). Opposite Rondout is Rhinebeck-on-the-Hudson, 2 M. from the
old village which was founded by William Beekman in 1647. He came
from the RhinelaiYd, and named his settlement for himself and his old
home river. S. of the Landing is " Wildercliff," the former estate of the
eminent Methodist, Freeborn Garretson, Above this place is "Ellerslie,"
the home of the Hon. Wm. Kelly (the estate fronts for l.Ji iM. on the
river), while near the Landing is the old fortress-mansion cf the Beek-
mans (built of stone, in the 17th century). Above Rhinebeck is " Roke-
by," W. B. Astor's residence, which was built by Gen. Armstrong, Secre-
tary of War 1813-14 ; and " Montgomery Place," the Livint^stons' man-
sion, built by Gen. Montgomery's widow (a Livingston). Above Barry-
town is the estate of " Annandale," and in the groves of Cn ger's Island
(near th*^ W. shore), is a picturesque and truly ancient ruin, which was
imported from Italy some years since. Near Annandale is an elegant
little chapel, and St. Stephen's Coller/e (Episcopal), endowed by Mr. Bard,
the owner of the estate. Barry town and Tivoli are the landings for the
antiquated inland towns of Lower and Upper Red Hook. Opjiosite Tivoli
(which has the old De Peyster Mansion) is the flourishing factory -village
of Sauf/erties. at the mouth of Esopus Creek, and 2 M. above is Maiden.
Opposite Maiden is Clermont, the home of the patrician family of
Livingstoii (descended from the Earls of Linlithgow), which his had such
great influence in New York State. The old manor was abo>-e German-
town, and Chancellor Livingston built a new one on the site o' Clermont,
but Vaughan's British raiders destroyed both houses (in 1777). New
ones were soon erected, and the Chancellor, being appointed i'lUibassador
to France, met Robert Fulton in Paris, and became deeply interested in
the new theories of steam navigation. In 1787 John Fitcl, built and
worked a steamboat at Philadelphia, and in 1789 one had botn operated
on the Clyde (near Glasgow), luit both inventors had given up the id«;.i
of the feasibility of steam navigation. In 1807 Livingston and Fulton
built a steamboat in New York, called the "Clermont " (but popularly
termed *' Fulton's Folly"), which ascended the Hudson to Albany in 32
hours, to the great amazement of all the people.

The Catsklll Mts. arc now seen in the W., with tlie faiufuisiyfonntain House
far up on one of tlicir i)eaks, white as a snow-ilrift. From the villa^M of Catdlll
(with its superb Pruspoct Park Hotel overlooking the river) fieiiuent stages run
to the Mountain House (in 3-4 In-s. ; fare, -S'J.flO), passing through Sleepy
Hollow, where Kip Van Winkle is sai<l to have taken Ills 20 year.-' nap. Tlie
Mountain House is near the edge of a cliff, 2,'J12 ft. al)ov(> the river, and roui-
Uiauds a * * view extending over 10,000 equare miles, embracing puts of lour

I' V

348 Route 52,

ALBANY.

I" '

States, GO M. of tlit> ITiulson Valley, the dislnnt fitifsof Albany and Troy, aii<l tlin
surroniidiii;^' pfakH of tin- CaiskillH. Tin- Hoiitli and Noitli iMts., tlic Two I,akeH
and 1li(! Hi^li FallH, and tlin Stony, (.'autrrskill, and rianterkill ('Iov«'h (notcliOH)
Hliould l)c visited, 'i'lu'ic are other lioteh among the nits., nn<l Une lishin^; is
fonnd on thr remote streams. The small villa;4eof i-o/c/ntV/r lias several hojinlju^.
houses, miieh visited by artists. Amid this seenery lived and laborecl Thomas
Cole, tjie jiainter of the three series of impre.ssive alle;;orieal pictnres rei>rcsentin^
" The (.'onrse of Kmpire," " The Vfiyap- of Life," and "Tho Crussnud the World "
(the latter was left in<(»mplete at his death).

4 M. above Catskill, on tli(3 E. bank, is Hudson { Worth IIovsc), a liand-
some city on a liigh promontory, witli a fine riverside avonne called the
Promenade, leading to tlie toj) of Prospectt Hill (200 ft. high) which looks
over on the Catskills. The city was founded by 30 Quakers from Provi-
dence, in 1784, and now contains 13,000 in^.abitant.s. It is at the head of
ship navigation, and is the terminus of the Hudson and Boston Ilailroail
(to Chatham). The njarble Court-Hou.se of (.Vdunibia County is located
here, and there are several very neat churches in the city, f) M. N. aro
the Coluvifna Siil2}hur Sprivcjs, with a large hotel and a pictures(]ue lake,
while New Lebanon (see page 140) is often visited from this point. A
steam-ferry leads from Hu(l,son to tlu' small village of Athens, whence a
branch of the N. Y. Central Railroad diverg s to Sclu'necta<ly. 4 M. N.
is Four Mile Point, with its lighthouse, opposite Kinderhook Landing, 5
M. from Kinderhook, where Martin Van Buren, 8th President of the IT.
S., was born, and where he died, on his estate of " Ijindenwald." Cox-
sackie is a rambling village on the W. shore, and New Baltimore and
Schodac are soon passed. Above New Baltimore and near the W. shore
is Beeren Island, on whose rocky summit once stood the castle of Rens-
selaerstein, pertaining to Killian Van Rensselaer, the Patroon of Albany.
The Helderberg Mts. are seen in the W. as the steamer passes Coeyman's;
Castleton is then passed, on the E. ; the immense and costly national
dikes are seen .stretching along the shore ; and the populous hills of Al-
bany are ra]>i<lly approached.

Albany (* Delnran House. ; Stamoix Hall), the capital of the State of
New York, is a prosperous commercial city at the confluence of the Erie
and Champlain Canals and the Hudson River, 144 M. from New York
City. It has over 70,000 inhabitants, and is famed for its extensive brew-
eries and cattle-yards, while the workshops of the N. Y. Central Railroad
employ over 1,000 men. Vast quantities of Western produce pass to and
through Albany by means of th Erie Canal, which has here a great ter-
minal l)asin shielded by a breakwater SO ft. wide and 4,300 ft. long. The
Susquehanna R. R. (from Binghampton; 142 M,), the N. Y. Central R.
R. (from Buffalo— -297 M. — and the West), and the Rensselaer and
Saratoga R. R. (from Saratoga, Rutland, and Lake Champlain) converge
here from the W. and N., and are united by a double-tracked bridge of
stone and iron (J M. long ; costing $1,150,000) to the great railway lines
running S. and E. beyond the Hudson. The city receives its water-supply

A I.HAN* V.

Honte 5i. 349

f Al-

of
Erie
York
irew-
rOtid
and
ter-
The
III R.
and
srgc
of
lines
pply

from Hi-nssehu-'r l^uke (5 M. W. ), liy a tine systom of works wliioh cost
over 8 1,000,000. State St. runs from tlie business district near the river
to the vicinity of tln^ pleasant sfpuire on tlie liill, which is surrounded by
public buildin},'s. On tl»e W. is tlie Capitol, a phiin and ratlier dingy old
building, alongside of which is the large hotel called Congress llall. On
tlii^ E. of the sfjnare are the tine marble buildings of the State House and
the City Hall. The .Slate Libnay {()0,0U0 volumes) adjoins the Capitol,
and just lu'yond are seen the slowly rising marble walls of the new Slate
Capitol, which is to bo a vast and inij)osing structure in Renaissance
architecture, crowning one of the highest hills of Albany, and visible for
leagues up and down the river. The Catholic Cathedral of tin; Immac-
ulate Conce{)tion is a well-tinished and costly building, on Eagle St., with
f.ir famed stained-glass windows; and the spacious Gothic Church of St.
Joseph, on Ten Broeck St., is worthy of inspection. The State Arsenal
isa strong castellated building on Eagle St., near some liandsome churches.
H M. S. W. of the city are the buildings of the Almshouse, Insane
Asylum, Fever IIosi)itaI, an<l Industrial School, all on one large farm.
Tliere are several other charitable institutions about Albany, and there
are numerous i)ublic and private schools of a high grade. The Medical
College and the renowned Law ochool of the University of Albany are on
Eagle St., and the collections in natural history and geology (on State St.)
should be seen. On a hill in the N, part of the city, is the Dudley Obser-
ndory, richly endoweil by Mrs. Dudley, and furnished with a costly
collection of astrononnoal instruments and books. In the same part
is the Van Rensselaer Manor House and its j>ark, an interesting old
building on the site first occupied by Kilian Van Rensselaer, I'atroou
of IJeverwyk. This gentleman received from the Dutch king, in 1637, a
patent, covering about l,i50 scpiare miles, end)racing most of the present
counties of Albany, Rensselaer, and Columbia, and here ho ruled in feudal
state. The fannly has ever since remained powerful and wealthy. The
Schuyler House is another ancient mansion above the city, which was
built by Col. Peter Schuyler, a distinguished colonial leader in the 17tU
century.

Albany was foimded by the Dutch in 1614, and in 1G23 a fort was built and
naiiieil Fort Oruni^e. The settlement was called Beverwyk, or Willia. istadt, and
ill IWj-l, when the British took the ]>liue, it was uaiiied Albany iu honor of
the Critiah crown-prince, James, Duke of York and Albany. It was then sur-
rounded by tiniber-svalls, with six gates, parts of which were standing in 1812.
In IGSO the city was chartered, and in 1708 it becauje the capital of the State. A
provincial congress, which met liere iu 17J4, formed such a plan of union for the
colonies that concerted ai.'tion was i)ossih)le when later events required it. Since
tlie construction of the Erie and Chaiui)laiu Canals and the great systems of rail-
roads which converge here, Albany has continued to increase in wealth and pros-
perity. The new State Capitol (now buihling) will be the finest Renaissance
structure in America, and will cost .■? 7-10, OOO.uuO.

IW) Rouh' ns.

ALIIANV TU MONTKKAL.

63. Albany to Montreal

Hy tlio Retisst'lacr ami Sara(o';/i Uuili-oad, niiiiiiiig N. ftiuu Allmny to Sarnloga
Kpriii^s, Wlillfliall, aii<l HiillaiKl.

Soon afttT leaving' tliu city, the Rural rcnu'tory is pasard, and tlic train
rrachcs IT. Troj/^ the scat of tlu' Niitioiial Arsenal of Watcrvlict with its
HO Imiltlin^'H uiiil lUO ucn.'s of kioiuhIs. On the E. is seen Troy {Am'-riran
J/iiit.se ; AhntsidH Ilousf), a llouri.sliint^ city of nearly r)t>,0()() inlialiitants,
hituateil on an alluvial plain (> M. N. of Alltany. It is an important mil-
road-centre, and lias many large nnmufactories (iron foundries, cotton ar.il
woollen <,'oods, cars, Ik'ssenu'r steel, itc.) fronting on the Hudson. Tho
Troy Hospital, Marshall InJirmary, Orphan Asylums, and Warren Free
Institute are the jirineipal charitahlc foundations ; while the Rensselaer
Polytechnic Institute and other lino aca<lemies attest the intelligence of
the citizens. The streets are wide und well paved, and the marl)le Court
House and the line churches (notaMy those of St. l*aul and St. John) are
worthy of attention. The city is built near the luouth of the I'oestenkill,
and is overlooked by Mounts Ida ami Olympus. St. I'eter's College is
.seen upon the heij/hls, and is a (^atholic institution of high grade and wide
reputation. Troy was founded by men of New England, and bei-ame a
city in 181G. In 18(52 fidl forty ucres of its settled portion was burnt
over, causing a loss of .§ .'5,00(1,000.

Beyond W. Troy the tiain i)as.ses Cvhues, a largo manufactming town
ut the Falls of the Mohawk River, 3 M. above whi> li the Erie Canal
crosses the river in a stone acpieduct 1,137 ft. long, resting on 2G i>iers.
The train now crosses the Moliawk, ami follows the r. bank of the Hudson
to Mechanicsville, where it turns to the N. W. Stations, Round Lake
(near the celebrated Methodist canii)-ground) and Ballston, whose mineral
waters were formerly much visited. There are several line springs, the
most valuable of which is known as the Lithia Spring. 7 M. beyond
Ballston the train reaches the village of

Saratii^'i Springs.

Hotels. — The ** Grand Union hotel is the largest in the world, and has a
frontage (ini Hntadway) of l.lUJt ft., with 1 M. of ]iiazziis, 2 M. of halls, l,"? acres of
carpets and marble tiooriug, S24 rooms, 1,474 dooi-s, 1,891 windows, and accom-
modations lor over 1,200 guests. *" Coni,'ress Ilall is o]ii)osite the Grand Union,
and has 1,01(5 ft. of frontage (on three streets), with broad piazzas, roof-]>roiiie-
nades, and superb parlors. This house was built in 1808, and is of an imposing
form of architecture. Tiie * Grand Central Hotel is on Broadway, opjiosite Con-
gress Hall, and is a sujjerb house, with over 700 ft. frontage, and 0;')0 rooms. The
* Clarendon is an aristocratic resort amid stately elm-groves o])jtosite Congress
Park. ItaeeonnnodatesiJOO guests. The American (on Broadway) aceonunodates
350 guests : the Marvin House (corner Bi-oadway and Division Streets), 250 ; tho
Continental, 200 ; the Columbian, 200. Besides tlio.se above-nanu>d, there are 42
hotels in and near the village, together with several great water-cure establish-
ments under the care of experienced doctors, and many (piiet and inexpensive

SAUAT()(JA Hl'l:rN(!S.

/{ontcSJ. 351

town
'anul
)iers.
ilsou
Lake
iiieral
S the
■voud

las a

res of

::com-

'iiiun,

rome-

•osing

Coii-

Tlie

jii-csa

dates

tlio

re 4 'J

l)lish-

iisive

loMplinu Ii'inst's Tilt' ••limv't'H at tin.* priiiiipal luitfls art* 91 '>0-noo a <l.iy. <>r
I J.V -W iM) a wi-ek. while every variety nf |irirc ami aeeniiiiiiiiilaUoi! nmy W \U\\\\\\
aiieMi;; tlii.> hiu.illi i Ii<i|i>|h. I'U.aHaiit <|ii(it('irt iiiuy Ik: IoiiihI in IIh- liuanhn;;-
liouseH fi'i' irniii s III tii>i'JO a wei'k.

C'nrrlnK*'>*> '"<"<'. eaeli pasMfii;,'! rfor a cHurHc williiu tlir IhhiikI^) of tln' vi'lnxe
flKu^ii-i' ixli i). A cDiirliiiiMii ami span may I'f limil Inr .^T.'.ii.) ;i muntli.

^liiii*u*lii<'iltH. — 'I'lie n|.i'ra llniisc, atfa^lieil In tlic (Iiajhl Inii'ii IF'Mme,
sealH I, iiM» pciNuiiK. llieie are iii^lilly Imps id llie ele.;,iiit liall riiiniiH attarlied to
tJM' tiiii'i-i liief iiotelH, am 1^1 a IK I iiallsnm e a wt ek at ea< li ol tlieM- liniiseH. (iiiestil
p.tv >< I f>ir ailiiiiHsidii ta tilt' liails, wliieli are tlie iiiip>,t liillliaiit on the ('Diitineiit.
'Die UaeeB eniim oir ill .Inly anil An;,'nst (seeoml wetk), on one ol" flie licst of tlio
Aiiierii an laec (onrsfs (I M. lium ('nn^;reHs Spring;). 'I'lie suirti'.>t Imrses are
ciitereil at these fnimiiiH eiintc->ts, anil sonii' of the most ri'inarkaltif raics of thn
past (leende have lakfii plaic here, Miisie is (lisconiieil hy liamis eonm-itcil with
till' leitds, several timi .s ilai'y, an.i promenades take place iu the paiks, pailor.s,
and pia/zas.

C'liiirrlu>M« — The Methodist and the Kpiseojtal SocietieH have due lMiililinj,'H
on \Vashin.;ton St., near the (irami Unniii. The iSaptist. ( liiirrh is on the same
Mtii'i't. and tile I'resliyterian Ciiiinli is on Mpper Uroadway. " !ie (.'atliolies meet
at tlieir ehnnh on S. Uroadway (near tlm ( laiemlon), and the (.'oiiKrej,'atioiialisN
meet on I'lula.St. (over the I'ost-UIIke), The V. M. C. A. leading-voom and hall
Ih on Phil I St.

OiniilbiiHeH run freipn-ntly to the s]inn;^'H lieyoml the villa^'e liinitM, mid to
Jsar.ilM-.i LaUe. A small strainer plies on the lalce.

RtillrondH. I'rom Huston to Saiato;.ia !>> Iloutes '.'•-' and rilJ ; hy Route 1!') ;
hy UiMiti's •_'<! and JS (the favoritt; route, through trains in 1) his.) From New
Yolk Ity Ihiou'^li express (wilhoiiLt haii^e) on tlie Hudson Hiver llailroad, in .'ji hr.s.
nsa M."): or hy Uoute .'.'J to Alliany, and tln'iiee liy Uoule :.:!. Sarato^M is :{S M.
from Alhiiny : TtX M, Inmi Phil idelpliia : 4l'_' M. t'rom Wasldn^'ton ; sil M. Iroin
Cliieaj^o ; ;1M2 M. IVom Qmdiee ; ;ill .M. from Nia.i4aiii ; Vt M. from l.ake Cliani-
itlaiii ; and '_','J!>2 M. from New Orleans. The Adirondaek Hailioad (station o»
Wasliinj,'t()ii St.) runs X. from .Sarato-a to North Creek {bl .M.).

8ar;ito};u Springs, one of tlic fnieniost of Uie siiniiiier-resorts of America
and of tlie world, i.s situiitecl in Eastciii New York, iilxnit iiiiilway ludween
Albany and liake George. Like Newport by tlie .sea, it is often ealled
" the (Jiteeii of American wateriiig-i)lace.s," and this dual sov<;reigiity is
generally neknowledgcil. The village is situated on a itlaleaii a few M.
W. of the Hudson River, and has a re.sideiit jjopulation of al)(uit 9,000,
The hotel systetn of Saratoga is unrivull('(l elscwlieie in the world, and
although ecpial to the aceoiiiiuodation of 1(J-1S,000 gue.sts, it is taxed to
its utmost cajiacity during the month of Augu.st (the season opens early
in June). Broadway is the main .street, and extends for several nules,
with the chief hotels near its centre and a succession of costly villas be-
youd, Circular St. and Lake Ave. art also famed for their elegant sum-
mer-residences, while large medical establishments and boarding-houses
are found ou the (juieter side-streets. The village is at its brightest in
August, when it is thronged by visitors from all i)arts of the rejiublic and
from Europe, -while over 3,000 private carriages, together with the caval-
eades from the public livery-stable.s, join in the jiaraile of fashion on
Broadway and the Boulevard, Although the greater part of the visitors
come from the central Atlantic States, the number from beyond that dis-
trict is still so great as to give a continental or even a cosmoiiolitan llavor
to the summer .society. The merry music of the bands, the regular pro-

302 JioutcO.i,

SAKATO(J.\ sri{IN(iH.

V ,

fi!

,.4.

ooKsions of I'li'^Miit I'uniiigt's oil llii.' fnvoriU' diivcs, tlic ciowds f^Mtliciiiig
;\ltont tlic spiiiigs ,\l llic lasliioiialilt' !ioiivs I'oi MiiiiUinji. tlic luillinnt liojis
aiiil tilt' world n'liowiit d li;ills ,i1. the _i';i;Mid Iiclrls, and llic siirgiii"^ of tho
iMullitiidc lo\var«l llic raiho.id .slalion ;il Hit' liiiictif llu' iiicoiuiii;; tniiuH,
fiiviiisii ciulli'ss ri'somri's lor Dltsi-rvalitin and aniuscMK'ni.

Congress Park is a ] Icasan! ukuhuI for a raniMt', aiitl con^isf^ of a
low litlgv swi'tpiufA ii'iuiiid the ('(ingress ami ( 'oliiniliian springs. It is
o|>lio.sili> the «'lu"f Iit)l«'ls, and is well laiil out in paths, ainl ailorni'd witli
many of tlu' great elms w hit li an' tin- only natural Iieautics tti lie Immd
ii; Saratoijii. N. of the Taik is tin- l)uli<ni Cifvi/), wlicn^ a Itand ol Kirncli
half lireetls aiul Indians t ncnnip tlurin^ the snninici, earryiiifj; on a litera-
ti\o trade in he;- 'work, h.iskt'ls, moerasiiis, aiitl other small-wares. The
('ill niar Railway is near the eanip. aiul is supposetl to allortl visitors r*
heiielit ial exercise. A litlK' way lteyt>iiil the canip (on the r. side of Cir-
eulai SI. ) is the jioiudar 'reinidv (Jitue Seininarv . whose line Imiltliiig is
used tlnriiij); the snninu'r as a lt(>artlin,l^llonse lor families On ihe same
street, ami just hcyond tlu' Seminary, is the Dis. SIrone's Inslilnte (100
I'uests) tor the pratliee t)f Ihe water, vaennm, ami movement cures.
Ahout 1 M. N. of the I'aik (on IJroailway) is the raee-eourse and liotol at
('icn .)fi/c/irn. with linely arraiejeil jironmls ainl shady i;roves.

The iiiiiicr.il spriii:,;s rise in ,i stratnni nf PotMl.iiii siiiiilstcnie near a .ureat hrcak
ei lissnn' in t)ie sti.ita iuuli'rl.\ iii.u tlie N;ii;il.i^,i N'alley. ami reach llie siirl'aee l)y
(i.issiii^; tliroii,i;li a lif.l el' lihie ci.iy. Must el' I lie spiiir^s are nwiii'tl by slock eeiji-
jiaiiies. (iin> of wliit li li;is ;i t a]tital efs l.diKi.iKie. and t tmlnils llic t'oii^ress. ("tiltim-
ii;aii, ainl I'liiipiii' Spnn.us 'I'lu' )iroi ess el Imriii;', arlcsi.in wells lias liceii iiitro-
iliiei'il with iiiucli |iielit, and seme el' the iiinsi \,iluMlile ef the ne.v sources have
I'.'en tliseovcii-d in that way. limiieiise iiuaiilities ol' the waters are sent away to
all parts el'tlu' Iniletl Slates, fur the treatiuenl, of invalids at. Iitiim>. tlni'.i;;li the
inm-ess of liottliui; and pacKiii;: is dilliciill aiivl eestly. In the year IScid, ;i(iO,(K)(i
'..oltles were sent away from llu' I'^nipire Spiiii;.' alone. The |>rincipal iiij;redioiits
of the waters are carlioiiic acid and s.ill. with lii carl.oiiales of !ime, ina;.;iiesia,
s.hI.i. iron, and lilliia, of wliich the vaiyiiij; proiioilions cause lli(> peculiar eliar-
aeteristies ol' the diHerent spriiiLis. The visitor may freely drink at any of the
sourn's, the water hoiiiL; <li]iiied nji liy lioys (In whom a small gratuity is .soiiie-
tiiiies irixenV The cathartic waters should lie taken hel'ore lireakl'ast. three i;lassos
lieiiiH a faii'tpiantity ; the alterative waters shdiili'i he taki-ii in small tpiaiitities
thron^rli Hit the d.iy : the tonic (iron) waters must. lit> di'inU after midday; ami
Iho diiireiic waters should lie taken before each meal.

The Columbian Spring is in Congress Park, under a neat dome. It
was discovered in 1800, ami is the favorite among the residents of the vil
lage. This water contains a perceptible amount of iron, with considerable
carbonlc-aoid gas. ami acts as a «leciiled tonic and diuretic.

The Congress Spring is umler a Doric colonna«le in Congress Park,
and close to Congre'.s Hall. It was fountl by a jiavty of hnntei's in 1792,
and was so named because iliere was a Congressman umong their number.
It was soon after ehoketl by unsicilful tubing, and was found again in
1S04. The exjiortation of the water began in 1823, and now it has a con-
tinental fame, and is also sold in Europe. It contains in each gallon 400

cat

til
Km
Spr
the
Spii
now
vigd
T

olde
•loin
the;

HAllATOGA srUliNUH.

Houk 5J. .'i5.'J

llK'ving

il hops

; of tlie

trains,

;1h of a
11 is
111 with
(• lonnii
' KiTiich
a hu'ia-
•s. The
isitors a
L- of Cir-
ihliiig is
hit sniue
nti' (100
)t. cnvt'S.
[ hotel ut

•cat liicfik
suiliut" by
tiH'U com-
ss.Colnui-
011 iiitio-
rifs have
away to
i(>"ij;li tlio
i, ;i(iO,(U)(»
^rcdioiits
iin;-',iH'sia.
uliiir cliar-
iiiy (if till'
is soiuc-
vo j;lasses
(luaiitities
Idav ; luul

loim". It
if the vil
iisiderable

•ess Park,
s in 1792,
r number,
ngain in
has a c'on-
tallon 400

griiinM of (hloriilf of Ho«liuni, 113 ^raiiui of lii carhona!*- of liinc, and 122
^^raiiiH ol l)i-carlionati^ of magnesia, with 'M grains of otiior <'li<nicntu.
'Ihis water is calhaitif and alterative, and is Ixneli'ial in diseuses of tho
liver and Ividncya. More of it is drank tii;in ol lh(! wattM- of any f)tlu'r
AiiHiic.'in spring, and its vieirnty is thronged cvcny liri^ht suninicr n.orn-
iiij; v.itJ! Iiealth-.seekers from tln^ liotels.

Tlie Washington Spring is in the Recreative (Jarduii of tliM Clarendon
lldlel (aerosH llroadway Ironi tln> Colnndiian). It was opened in ISOd,
and widie ladiij^ renovatecl and slialied in Ksr»M u j^reat Hood ol wal(!i and
j;as hurst forth into th« suhtttrranean tunnel, and forced the vorknieii to
lley for their lives, 'i'his i,i tin; most ph-asaid- water in tie valley, and has
a taste of iron, with strong lonie [nopertn's. It is sonndiines (!alle(l " tim
ClianipaKne Spring," and is situated anionj; stalely pine (proves.

'i'lie Crystal Spring, luidei the (irand iV-ntral iloicl, was din<overed in
1870. It is tainteil with sMli>liurette<l hydrogen, ami is alterative in its
ellcots. 'V\h' I/(i(,/iitni iSjtilin/ is opposite (Jon;,n-ess Hall, ou Spring St.
II was discovered in iSdS, and is a vei'y jiowerful catinirlic. Kach gallon
contains r»10 jj;rains ol' cldoride of sodium, 171 giains fd" lii-c.uhonate of
lime, and 17<I ^fidns of hi carliouale of nia;^'nesia, besides an extraordinary
Minonnt of lithia. 'V\w HnniUlon S/niii;/ in near the llathorn, and ha(;k
r'iC'oiiKress Hall (c(wner Sjiriiiji; and Putnam Sis.). It is diuretic and
cathartic in its oi»i!ration, anil is mainly used for diseases of the Icidneys.
The Pidnani Sprin;! is mi I'ldli St., near the Post-OIIice, and is tonic in
its ell'ects.

The Pavilion Spring is in a pretty park on Lake Ave., veiy near
iiroalway. It was tidtecl n l.s;}U, and has a wide repntaLion for iti
eatliartio projiertiiis and ilselhcacy in dys]»(!psia nnd bilious complaints.
Of lute years it has improved in (piality and in ])0})ularity. Tlu; United
States Spring i.s under the same, boa\itiful colomiade, and is tonic in its
properties, w!nle from its sparkling character it is u.sed for giving life and
llavor to still wines.

The sources ])re'. .ously meidioned are near e;\eh other, in the centre of
the village. The Seltzer, High Rock, Star, Empire, Red, Excelsior, and
iMu-eka are in a long line in the N. part of tlie village. The Seltzer
Spring is on the old Willow Walk, not far N. of the I'avilion. This is
the least saline of the Saratoga waters and closely resend)les the Nassau
S|iring of Germany. It bubbles up thnnigh a high glass-tube, agitated
now and then by the passage of carbonic-acid ga.s, It is a pleasant and in-
\i;,'orating beverage.

The High Rock Spring is al -ut 150 ft. from the Selt/er, and is the
olde.st known of the springs. In 17G7 a party of Indians brought Sir Wm.
•bihnson thither on a litter, and after si>ending some weeks here drinking
tlie niedicuial wuiers, he was cured. The water rises in a cylindrical

r>54 Route 53.

SARATOGA SPRIXCJB.

I' .

>]!

opening in a rock of conical shape, 3.^ ft. liigli and 24 ft. around, — a
natural curb of tufa wliioh has been formed by the niineral deposits from
tlie spring. Tlie Avatcr is decidedly saline to tlie taste.

The Star Spring (formerly lalled tl»c Iodine) is near the High Rock.
This is the favorite mineral water in New England, and vast (quantities of
it are shippe<l in kegs and bottles. It is catliartic in effect, and acid in
taste, and is beneficial for rheiimatisiu and cutaneous diseases.

The Empire Spring is N. o:' the Star (at the head of Circular St.). It
very mucli resembles the Congress water in its constituents and effects
(catliartic). The lied Sprint/ is just beyond the Empire (on Spr'ng Ave.)
This water is cliieily (and extensively) used as awash, and is especially
e(Iic;',cious in diseases of tlie skin and the blood. Dyspejisia is benefited,
and salt rheum is cured by this agency. The " A" Sjjring (on Spring
Ave., beyond the Red) is becoming jjopular as a cathartic agent, having,
moreover, a pleasant taste.

The Excelsior Spring is ]iearly 2 M. N. E of Congress Park, and is
reached by Spring Ave., or by^ a forest-path turning olf lVon» Lake Ave.,
and leading througb beautifu'. woodland scenery. The Excelsior water is
jileasaiit to the taste, and mildly (uithartic in its operations. Ni i +his
place are the Minnehaha, Union, and other sources, forming a group called
the Ten Siirings. The Eureka Spring is reached by foUrwing the park-
like valley for a few rods beyond the Excelsior. It is situated amid
charndng forest .scenery, and is gaining popularity as a cathartic agent,
beneficial for cases of dyspepsia, and liver and stomach diseases. Near
this place is the Eureka W lite Sul])hur Spring, with a copious flow of
water charged with sulphurttteil hydrogen. This is one of the best hepatic
springs in the State, and is (efficient in many affections of the glands, skin,
stomach, &c. It is taken internally and externally, —the latter at the
bath-houses (50 c. a bath) ii the vicinity. Hourly stages run from the
great hotels to the Eureka Springs.

The Glrcier Spouting Spring is 1 U. S. of the village, near the Balls-
ton road. It was discovered in 1871 by siidciiig an artesian well, 300 f*
deep, to the Trenton linn'stone stratum. The proi)ortion of niin ra.
constituents in this water is very large, and it is a powerful cathartic,
beneficMal also in diseases of tiie kidneys and liver.

T'he Geyser Spouting .spring is not far from the Glacier, near the
Ballston road and the railroad. It was discovered iu 1870 by boring a
well 140 ft. deep, and the '.vater jets np for over 25 ft., being impelled by
carbonic-acid gas. This is the coldest of the waters of Saratoga, and has
a larger amount of mineral matter than any other. It is strongly cathartic,
and is lively and pleasatit to the taste. Between the Glacier and tlie
Geyser is the Ellis Sj^irin;; (chalybejite).

Saratoga Lako is about \ M. from the village, and is reached by Llie

I'll

I XI

MM
Th

for

Fis

ell

Vol

S.IM

lOMl

llOll,

MMti

:'\ C

I and

'I'oai

! t.. tl
I the J

^:il

SARATOGA SlMlIXGS.

Route 53. 355

d, — »
[,3 from

I Rock,
itien of
aciil in

it.). It
d effects 1
ng Ave.)
ispecially
.ieneHte<\,
m Spvins
t, having,

vk, aiul is
,!ike Ave.,
or water is
N. I +Uis
10 up ciilled
r the park-
uated ami<l
xrtic agent,
r,ses. Near
ous How of
best hepatic
glands, skin,
atter at the
vn from the

(av tiic Balls-
Iwell, 300 V
of min ru
[vd cathartic,

tier, Ticar the
by boring a
impelled by
ftoga, and hi\s
ligly cathartic,
lacier and tlie

cached by '^^i^

favorite drive calle<l the Bonlevard (entered by following the street which
Hes between Congress Hall and the Park). This road passi's near tho
race-conise and the trout-ponds, ^fl>(nls Loir Ifnuse is the favorite of
tlio lake hotels, and furnishes rare dinners of fish and game, nt higli jirices.
Till' fried potatoes of this house are considered a gieat delicacy. Saratoga
Laice is 9 M. long and 3-5 M. wide, and furnishes good fishing and boat-
ing. The scenery is tame, altliough the views from Chapman's Hill (1 M.
from the Lake House) and Wagman's Hill arc pleasing. Lake Lovely is
a secpiestered pond among the hills near the Bonlevard. It is a favorite
place for picnics, and has some line woodland scenery.

lake Luzerne is 22 M. N. of Saratog:i (by the Adirondack Railroad), and
is a picturesqu*^ sheet of water with two good hotels (Rockwell's and the
Wayside). Tlie railroad exhibits some remarkable engineering and steadily
rising grades, while the lake affords good fishing and boating. Stages run
iVoiii Luzerne ic Caldwell (10 M.).

The battle of Stillwater was fought on Deinis IIoi;^hts, about V) M. S. E. of tho
Sitrii).i,'s, and 2 M. from the II>i(l.s()U River. Gen. Uingoyne inarclied south from
Ciiiiiula in June, 1777, witli a well-iiiipoiuted British army, strengthened by
(icrniiui, Canadian, and Indian auxiliaries. This force was to meet another
British army advancing from Nt!\v Y()ri<, soni'-wliere on the line of tiic Hudson,
and tiuis cut the rebellious coloiiies in two, to be sulxlued in detail. Burgoyno
t(»(il< Fort Ticomleroga, .luly 0, and lost a lirge detachment of hi.s btvst (Jermau
tnio])s, who were cul otr by tlie Vermonte-.s at Bennington, Aug. lU. On Sept.
14 tlie British cros.sed the lluds(,fi and encaniiied at Saratoga, near the American
army. Bnrgoyne made an attack the next (lay on the lii.es at Bciuis' Heights,
which had been fortilied by Kosciuszko, l)nt after a long and indecisive^ battle, was
fitrced to susi)end his southward march. He Ibrtilied his camj), and waited for 8ir
Henry Clinton's army to achievi; its iiorMiward march and rescue him. His sup-
]ili<'.^ and outposts were cut olf daily, and, on October 7, he advanced for another
l)attli. Morgan's Virginians attacked his riglit, tho sth, '.ilh, and 10th Mass.
mill"' Cell. Poor, were led against ids left, while other troojis fell on his front.
The British retreated, leaving their artillery, and the Americans stormetl tho
forlilied camp after desperate lighting. Burgoyms fell back on his old cami>.s by
Fish Creek, but Gen. Fellows, with a New Kngland brigaile and batteries, prevent-
eil his crossing the river, while Gates with 12,000 Continental troojis and New
York militia faced him on the S. His ])rovisions gave out, the I'amp was inces-
santly cannonaded by t!ie Aineriean batteries, and Cliidon's army had failed to
citmuM't, so. on 0<'l. i(), the British army, consisting of 5,701 men, with 42 can-
non, and all their stores, surrendered to Gen. (iates. They were IkjIiI as captives
until the close of the war (over 5 years), <irst at Cambridge, Mass., and afterward
't Charlottesville, Va.

The Rensselaer and Saratoga Railroad rnns N. E. from Saratoga, by

(hinsevoort and Morenu to Fort Ed'oard, on the Hudson (two hotels).

This place was fortified in 1709, and in 1755 Fort EdwanTwas built at the

coiilluenceof a broad creek with the river. The ramparts were 16 ft. high

ami 22 ft. tliick, and were jjiovided witli 4 bastions and bordered by a

j broad wet ditch. H. was a very important station on the old military ro.ad

|t>.,the N., and in 1777 was held by 5,.W0 Americans, who retired before

Ithe advance of Bnrgoyne. About this time the beautiful Jane McRea was

356 Route 53.

SAllATOGA SPRINGS.

■A

murdered by Indians, near the village, under circunistances which have
caused her story to become one of the saddest in the New World history,

PassensPi's who wisli to go to Lako Cliani])Iain dirert, continue on the train for
20 M. fai'tlwM-, passing,' up tho valley of Wood Creek to Whiteluili. In going towanl
Wliitehall tliti Fort Ann Mts. are seen on the, 1., and tiie course of the C'haniplain
Canal is followed. Fort Ann Villa^'e is on the site of an olrl colonial fort, near
whi(!h Putnam and 'lOO Hangt-rs were defeated by the French ]iartisan Molaiig. with
a large French and Tndian fori'(i. The Rangers sutfcreil fearfully, and Putnam was
captured. In 1777 the Americans attacked the !)th line; regiment of the Pritish
army, in a ravine now traversed hy the railroad (•} M. N. of the station). Isnt after
an obstinate engagement tlie assailants were foned to withdraw. Wliitehall
{Hall's Until) is a jirospcrous bnid>ering village, situated in a rugged ravine lunlcr
.Skene.'.': Mt. It wa.-. settled by Col. I'liiliji Kkene in 17()'), and a large stone man-
sion and military works were'ercrted. It was eajitured by Ilerrick and tht^ Creen
Mt. Boys in 177r>, and in 1771) was confiscated by the State, of New York, on ac
count of Skene's adliesion tc the king, the Pi'itish licet here engaged the
Americans flying from Ticonderoga, July i, 1777, destroyed several galleys, and
took 128 cannon and a vast amount of .snpi>lies. The name of "Whitehall " was
adopted in i»lace oi .Skcucsb(M-ough, and in bSl'J the juace was well fortified. In
1S14 jVlacdonough's Meet, with the British s(|nadron w'lich it had taken in the
naval battle at Plattsburg, came to this jioint, and how the "Saratoga," "Con-
fiance," and other ves.sels sunk at their moorings. Whitehall is 24 M. from Fort
Tieouderoga (by the lake). Whltcliall to Rutland, .see Route 28.

Passengers for Lake George change cars at Fort Edward, and take a
train wliieh passes over a branch railroad to Glens Ftdls (G M.), a flourish-
ing factory-village with about 5,000 inliabitants, which has but lately
recovered from a fire which utterly destroyed it (in 1863). The Hudson
here falls 50 -GO ft.-'over a long and rugged ledge, while the State has
built a great dam above, which feeds the Chaiuplain Canal. The Island
below the falls is associated with Cooper's "Last of the Mohicans."
" Here, amid the roaring of this very cataract, if romance maybe believed,
the voice of Uncas, the last c*" the Mohicans, was heard and heeded ; here
HawJv-Eye kept his vigils ; here David breathed his nasal melody," &c.

Stages run from Glens Falls to Caldwell, 9 M. N. About 5 M. beyond the vil-
lage the road jiasses near Williams's Rock, a large boulder which marks the scene
of " Tlie Ploody Morning-Scout." On Sept. 7, 1755, when the French ai-my of
Dieskau was marching down from Crown I'oint against the Anglo-colonial army
unde.' (mt. .lohnson, Col. Kphraim Williams was sent out with 1,200 men to en-
gage the Frenfdi van-guard. 200 of his men were Mohawk Indians, under the
command uf their noble, 'vhite-haired chief, Hcndrick. The detachment ad-
vanced into the very (;entre of the invading army (which was marching in a great,
hab'-moon curve), anc' was sjieedily enveloped and crushed by the enemy. A ler-
rilile ma.ssacre ensued (in a ravine still called the Bloody Defde), and Williani.s
(the founder of Williams College) and Hcndrick fell, with inost of their men. Tlie
boilies of the slain were thrown into Bloo'y Pond, a (piict i)ool in a glen near Wil-
liams's Rock. Dieskai; then advanced rapitlly to attack the colonial camp at Lal;i'
lieorge. Johnson had fortified Ms position, iind the Indian and Canadian auxil-
iaries in the utta*liing force were soon jint to flight by the lire of the batteries,
while the French regulars sufl'ered heavily, and were filially repulsed with the loss
of 700 killed and wounded. Dlcskau was wounded and made ]»risoner, while John-
son, though wounded, was made a baronet of Great Britain, and received tiie
thcidvs of Parliament. Fort William Henry was soon afte-wards erected, arnitMl
with 42 tiannon, stored with vast supi)lies, and garrisoned by 2,500 men. In Au-
gust, 1757, this fort was beleaguered by 10,000 Frenchmen and Canadians, uiidii
the Manjuis de Montcalm. After a siege of .several days' duration, lia ving received m
Uid from the colonial army at Fort Edward, the fort was surrendered. As soon a^

Fi'l

terf

wai

EiiJ

ila\

iiiei

Hof

thi,{
hatf

f'Tll

LAKE GEORGE.

Routcis. 357

cli have
History.

train fcr
Ig towuitl

fort, m'av
liuifi:. witli
ituaiii was
K! Ihitish
V.ut after
liitehall

.tone man-
thc UietMi
nik, oil ii<'
ipa-od the
alleys, and
X'hall " was
iitified. I"
ikeii in tlie

Con-

. from Fort

md take a
, a tlouvish-
"biit lately
•he Huilsou ,
3 State lias
The islauil
Mohicans."
be believed,
ceded ; here
ody," &c.

yond the vil-
ivks the scent;
eiich army of
cohtnial army
)0 men to ei\-
ns, under the
laehment ail-
uig in a great,
uemy. A ter-
iu\d Williams
icir men- The
-glen near Wil-
li camv at LaUe
anadian auxil-
the liatteru'S
d with the loss
t>r, while John-
d received the
ereeted, aniuMl

. men. In -^
xnadians. undti
ving received lu
■cd. As soon :i^

the disarmed garrison marched out, the Indian allies of Montcalm ft 11 fnrionsiy
upon tiieni, and a fearful nia-ssa -re ensued. Hundreds of the detV'ucekss ((iloniafs
were imt to <leath under the wa.ls of the fort liefore tlie slaugliter couiti he staved.
Although Montcalm retired to Fort (."arillon (Ticonderoga) with his trojiliics and
cai>tured batteries, the site of Fort William Henry was iiever re-occuiiiid. a new
work called Fort George, with a central citadel of "stone, having been built 1 M. S.
E. of the old fort.

Caldwell is a dull vill.-ige at the S. end of Lake George, wliicli enjoys a
slight local distinction from the fact of its being the .sliire-town of WatTeii
County. There are two small inns here, and the Lake House (accommo-
dating 175 gnests, at $ 3-3.50 a day). The * Fort William Henry Hold
is a vast and sumptuous house, on the site of tlie old fort, and amid finely
ai ranged grounds. It accommodates 1,200 guests, and charges .S5.00 a
day for transient visitors. The splendid frontage of the hotel looks o;it
over the lake, which is close at hand. Some remnants of the old fort may
he found here, and Fort George (1 M. distant) is a picturesque ruiu.
Rattlesnake Cobble is an easily ascended hill near Caldwell, which com-
mands a broad view down the lake. Prospect and French Mts. are also
ascended from the village, and give varying views of the lake and it.s
shores.

Stages run from Caldwell to Lake Luzerne ; also to Warrensburg,
Chester, Schroon Lake, and the southern Adirondacks.

Lake George

was first visited by Father Jogues, a French Jesuit missionary, whose canoe, en-
tered its quiet waters on the eve of the fes^'val of Corpus Ciu'isti, IGIG. In honor
of that sacred anniversary he named thesi! bright waters " Le La(! du St. !Sacre-
meMt"(The Lake of the iloly Sacrament), and then iiasscd on to a heroic martyr-
ilom at the hands of tlie Moliawks, fullilling the i)r(iphci'y whiidi he had mailc.
when leaving Montreal, " Ibo, nee rediho." For a ct^utnrytlie lake was known in
the border tdu'onicles as the jiath of hostile incursions oi of religions dcvoti'c.s
passing to the land of the lierce .Mohawks. (Jourcelles, Tracy. Schuyler, Mentelh,
— French, Dutch, Indians, Englisli, iliversilied the record. In 17 W Sir William
ilohnson concluded a league with the northern Indians, on the shores of St. Sao
reinent, and in IToo he le<l an army to the lake, and name<l it Lake (ieorgc, " not
oidy in h(mor of his Majesty, but to ascertain his nndoubted dominion." (liiis
name is growing more and more out of favor year l>y year, and most i)eo]>le would
prefer either the French "St. Sacremeut," or tlie Indian "Horicim," — meaning
"Silvery Watere," — suggested by Cooper.) Johnson's force was soon menai'e<l
hy 2,000 Frenchmen and Indians under the Baron Dieskau, but "the liloody
Morning Scout" was followed by a total defeat of the invading force, in which tins
French regulars were nearly annihilated. Fort William Henry was built soon af-
ter, and Rogers and Putnam, with their hardy Rangers, scouted over the lake to-
ward the French fortress at Ticonderoga. In March, 17.">7, Ri.^aud destroyed ;.i<)0
English batteaux and several sloops near Fort William Henry, and in August tlio
Maniuisde Montcalm jiassed down the lake with (1,000 men in boats and a,0;H)
men marching on the W. sliore. After jiicketing th; southern roads, Montcalm
opened a cannonade on the fort from batteries near tin; ])resent site of the Lake
House, and soon conii)elled its surrender. After tlie ensuing massacre of the dis-
armed garrison, the fort was'destroyed. But the most iiiii)osiiig spectacles which,
this, or any other An>ericau lake, has .seen, occurn d in 17.'j8 and 17-09. lu the
former year. Gen. Abercrombie advanced up the lake with 10,000 men, in 900
hatteaux and 190 whale-boats, convoyed by gunboats, nil brilliant with rich uni-
fonns and waving banners, while the nuisic of numerous regimeuUil bands echoed

i«

y
w

358 Route 53.

LAKE GEORGE.

'.ii

among the liills. (This pagoaiit is (iiiely (lcsriil)L'<l liy Conijcr, in " Sataiistoe,"
Cliajitcrs XXII. - XXV.) A few day.s later tlic sliattererl and dcleated army itassccl
up tlio lake to Fort A'^illiani Henry, having,' left over J, 01)0 of their iiiunl)er rU'jid
and dyin}^ under the walls of Fort Carillon (Ticondero^ia). In IT-W Gen. Amherst
led 11,000 men in another grand martial jirocession down the lake, and this mareh
ended in the Coiuiuest of Canada. In ITT-'i tiie abandoned l*'()rts George and Gage
(at Caldwcdl) were oeeuiiiod liy New York militia, and afterwards l)y a detaeh-
incntfrom llinman's Conn. Ileg., and by Col. Van Schaiek's N. Y. Reg. In the
summer of 1777 Fort George was chosen as the army hosjiital, on aecount of its
.salubrity, and .'{,000 sieK men were sent here. Ilundretls died of the small-pox
and typiius-fever, and among them was the Baron de Woedtke, a Prussian noble
who had Just aeeejjted a general's commission. In 1777, after the fall of Ti(!on-
deroga, Fort (ieorg(; and tiic lake wen; abandoned by the Americans, but were re-
o(!cupied after Hurgoyne's surrender. In Oc^tober, 17^0, the garrison of Fort
George was defeated and cut to ]>ieces, near Bloody Pond, and the fort and the
fleet on the lake were taken by the British. Since that day, peace has dwelt on
these traiiquil waters.

Lake George, "the Como of America," is situated in Northeasteni New
York, near the Adironilack .Its., and is about 300 ft. above the .sea. It
is 36 M. long, and 1 - 4 ]\L v/ide, and its sliores are generally sterile and
fringed with lofty and abrupt hills. There are but three petty villages
on the lake, and a luglnvay pusses through them on the W. shore, con-
necting Caldwell with Bolton, Ilag:.e, and Ticonderoga. The vicinity of
frowning mts., the great number of islamls, the transparency of the waters,
and the l)racing purity of the air of the highlands, unite to increase tlie
claims of Laice George as a summer-resort, wlule its scenery has been lik-
ened not only to that of Conu^ but also to Lake Windermere and Loch
Katrine,

The steamer " Minnehaha " leaves Caldwell every morning, and runs to
the N. end of the lake, returning in the afternoon. The steamer " Ga-
nouskie " makesdaily trips between Caldwell, Bolton, and 14-Mile Island.

The steamer leaves its pier (at the great hotel) aiid crosses to Croshi/side,
on the E. shore, with a large hotel situated in i)leasant groves by the
shore, and looking across to Caldwell. French Mt. towers to tlie E., and
is covered Avith fore. :s. Tea Island (so named from a tea-house, or arbor,
erected in 1828) is next passed, 1 M. from Caldwell, and then Diamond
Island is approached, Ih M. beyond. The name is derived from the beau-
tiful quartz crystals which are found here, and the i)lace was inhabited
in the early part of this century, — tlie mistress of the family being gen-
ei'ally known as "the Lady of the Lake," Diamond Island was fortified
by Burgoyne in 1777, and was garrisoned by part of the 47th line regi-
ment under Capt, Aubrey, It was attacked by Col, John Brown, with
the New England militia who had swept the outworks of Ticonderoga,
but Aul)rey re])ulsed the Americans with artillery, and then drove them
away C^' with great loss") by an attack with his gunboats. Brown lost
all his vessels and cannon, and many men, Dunham's Bay and Mont-
calm's Bay are passed on the E., the latter being beyond Long Island,
which is passed on the E. (with the Three Sisters islets on the W.). The

LAKE GEORGE.

Itoute53. 350

itniisUiR,"
ny jiasscil
\Im r (U'lul

Amherst
Ids iiiiinU

and Gage.

a detafU-
;. In the
unt of its

sniall-pox
sian nohlc

of Ticon-
it were re-
in of Fort
rt and the
i dwelt on

4teni New
e sea. It
itevile and
ty villages
ihore, con-
ticinity of
the waters,
icrease tlie
is been lik-
and Loch

md I'lins to
nier " Ga-
llic Island.
Vrosbi/side,
ves by the
le E., and
e, or arbor,
Diamond
1 the beau-
iiihabited
being gen-
is fortified
line regi-
rown, witli
.conderoga,
Irove them
Brown lost
land Mont-
Lng Island,
|W.). The

Tnmt Pavilion is a seqiiosterfd lictel above Montcalm's Bay, near the
hcst ti.shing-grounds, and IrcMiuented by lishernien. The Fort Ann Mts,
loom np darkly on the E. as the steamer crosses the lake, with the Thrre
13rotIiei-s on the W., and Uome and Recluse Islands on the N. This is
tlie broadest part of the lake, and adords views of rare beauty, with tlie
graceful J)o77ie Island (whicli resembles Ellen's Isle, in Loch Katrine)
])roi>iinently seen. KccUisc Island is a beautiful spot just \V. of th^
IJoine, with a clieerful summer-villa embowered among trees. This island
has the remains of fortifications wiiich wer.: built by Abercrombie's army
in 1758, while the views from its N. and E. sliores are exquisitely beauti-
ful. The steamer now rounds in at Bolton, a small village with a noble
outlook over the broadest expanse of the lake. There are two large and
comfortable family hotels here, and ip tlie environs of the village is the
quaint old stone Church of St. Sacrament. Tlie terms at the Mohican
House (directly on the shore) are low, and the accommodations are good.
Prospect Mt. is back of the village, and commands a broad and <lelight-
ful view, endn-acing the widest i)art of the lake, Montcalm's and Gana-
souke (or Northwest) Bays, Recluse, Dome, and Green Ids. and the
Narrows, and Tongue and Black Mts. in the N. and N. E. Ganasouke
Bay extends for G M. to the N. above Bolton, being separated from the
lake by the lofty promontory of Tongue Mt., \w\\Q\:e deer abound in the
late fall and winter. As the boat leaves Bolton, Parodi (or Sloop) Island
is passed on the 1. (so named because the singer, Signora Parodi, erected
across here in 1851). On the N. are Green and Hog Islands, closing the
entrance to Ganasouke Bay, while Tongue Mt. is on the W. and Black
ML on the E., as the steamer crosses toward the lofty palisades called
Shelving Rock, with the innumerable islands of the Narrows on the 1.
1/f-Mile Island is just W. of Shelving Rock, and has a fine hotel, which
is much visited by city gentlemen for the sake of the fishing in the vicinity.
Tlie Shelving Rock Fall is about 1 M. S. of the hotel (on the mainland),
and is a small and graceful cascade. Tlie island is 14 M. from Caldwell,
and Derrom's Hotel, charges $2-2.50 a day for board (.$10-14.00 a
week). The steamer now enters the Narrows, where the lake is contracted
between high mts., and a lleet of small islands is anchored in the channel.
These islets were the scene of numerous combats in the colonial days, but
are now deserted, save for the visits of sportsmen, who find large trout in
their pool shadows. Steaming down between Tongue Mt. and Black Mt.
(2,878 ft. high ; sometimes ascended with guides, for the sake of its view)
the " Mini>ehaha" passes the Hen and Chickens, Hatchet, Half- Way, and
Floating Battery Islands, with the N. peaks of Black Mt., called variously,
Elephant's Ridge or Sugar Loaf. Just N. of the Floating Battery group
is Vicar's Island, with the palisades of Buck Mt. on the W., and the
hamlet of Dresden seen down Bosom Bay, on the E. Sabbath Day Point

Ill

360 Route 53.

LAKE GEORGE.

is soon approacherl (on the W. ), — a long, low promontory running out
from rich meadows and still retaining the air of ^ .^ace and restfulness
•which won it the name it bears.

In 1757 a sharp sldrinish orctirrod at Harhor Island, off this Point, and in Jtdy
of tlint year the; 1st New .fcrsoy rcjiiinciit wns sent on a scout down tlio lake. De
(Jarl)itTcaud 4()() Frcnchnicn and Indians aMilinslicd tlic Jersey Blues in the arehi-
]telaKo off tlie Point, and defeated them v.itli ;^'reat slan^diter. 131 of llie
A'nerieans were killed, 12 esi-ajied. and 1. SO were made jirisoners, many of whom
were puttodeath witli horriltle tortnres. On the evening of .Inly '>, 1758, the van-
guard and centre of Abercrombie's j;rand army (liKht infantry and re.i,Milars)
rested on !Sal)bath Day I'oint from sunset until near midni.ulit, waiting for the
three brigades of Provincials and the artillery to come ui>. In 1777 a sharp con-
flict took i>la<'e here lj<'twe('n American militia and Tories, and during the present
century peace has settled along these sliores, althougji tlie coninioniilace farni-
Ijouses on the Point have marred tlie natural beauty of the plaoo.

The vast bulk of Black Mt. is prominent in the S. E., as the "Minne-
haha " r.tns N. to the village of Ilatjue, situated on a widening of the
lake, where it is 4 M. across. Garfield's is a favorite hotel at Hague, and
from this point parties go to the lakes (abounding hi fish), of Pharaoh (12
M. N. W.), Brant, and Schroon. As the steamer gains the middle of the
lake again, the prospect of the pass lietween Rogers' Slide and Anthony's
Nose, and the retrospc.i; of the Narrows and its island-flotilla afford
delightful views. Friends' Point and Islands are passed on the W., and
then Anthony's Nose (on the N. E. ) pushes out its rocky ledges over the
deepest water in the lake (400 ft.). lioijcrs' Slide is on the W. shore,
and is a long precipice which runs down into the water.

There is a legend to the effect that Major Robeit Rogers (the chief of the
R:>ngers, and afterwards a dangerous Tory oltlcer) was chased to the verge of this
cliff by Indians (in the winter of 17r)S). Suddenly reversing his snow-shoes, and
throwing his haversack down on the ice-bound lake, he retraced his tracks, and
got away dowJi an adjacent raviiKi liefore his i>ursuers arrived. The Indians fol-
lowed the tiacks leading to the preei])icc, and saw none leading away, whence
they concluded that he had cast himself over ; and when, a lew minutes later,
they saw him skimming away o\er the ice to-ward Fort William Henry, they at-
tributed his escape to the i)rotection of the Great Spirit.

Passing now by Prisoners' Island (where the French kept their captives),
with Lord Howe's Point on the 1,, the " Minnehaha" soon reaches the end
of the lake. Large four-horse stages are in waiting at the wharf, and arc
soon filled and en route for Lake Ohamplain. The road is a disgrace to
the State, and in wet weather is almost impassable ; but it is only 4 M.
long (fare by stage, 75 c. ). The stream, which is the outlet of Lake
George, falls about 240 ft. in its way to Lake Champlain (3-4 M. dis-
tant), and near the chief falls is the small biit increasing manufacturing
villag« of Ticonderoga (2 inns). 2 M. beyond, with beautiful lake-views
in front, the stage passes the ruins of the old fortress, and stops at the
hotel and pier of the Champlain steamers.

LAKE CIIAMPLAIN*.

Route 53. 361

ling out
itfulness

f\ in Jnly
lake. l)e
tlic an-lii-
;l of the

of wlioin
(, the viin-

rei^ulars)
!!<,' for the
iharp I'on-
hc invsent
hice lanu-

" Minne-

iig of the
ague, and
lavuoh (12
(lie of the
Anthony's
ilia afford
e W., and
s over the
I W. shore,

lief of the
■rge of this
^-shoes, and
tnn'ks, and
Indians fol-
vay, whence
mites later,
iry, they at-

captives),
lies the end
Irf, and are

llisgvace to
only 4 M.

\ii of Lake
_4M. dis-

[lufacturing
lake-views

lops at the

1 '■\»

lake Champlain

was railed by the Iroquois Indiana Caniaderi Guaranli ("The (lato of the
(duntry "), while the AbeiuKinis caih-d it I'etoiihoiKiue ("The Waters tliat lie be-
tween " ; i. c. between their land and that of the Invinois) : ami othi r Indians
called it Haranae. For nearly half a centnry it was ealliMl Corleai's Lake by the
i:ii,:/lish and Uuteh, in memory of a iiiitch j^entleman wiio was drown mI there. Fn
tli(( sunnner of lOO'J a small exploring,' j>arty set ont from (2"*''"''' "iider fSamiiel
(le Champlain,! the (iovernor of Canada, an<l ascended the St. Lawrence and
'liichelieii Rivers to the Cliambly Rapids, wliere tliey met a war-party of llm-ons.
All tlie Frenelunen save Champlain and two others were sent ba<k to Quebec,
■ind tiiose tliree joined the war-i)arty. .Iuly4, l(iO'.>, they entereil tiie lake, and
on tlie followinj^ day they defeated "ion Irocpiois at Crown Point, Champlain
liiiving shot their chief with his aniuebus. The llnrons returned in triiunph,
with (JO scalps, and the valiant Frenidiman, having; found the road to the lake,
WIS left to make several subse(|uent explorations and campaiKiis thereon. A
SI ''ies of war parties traversed this route for nearly two centuries, and the lake
became the scene of long campaigns and desperate batth-s. In KiOii, iJUO French
regulars and ji swarm of Indians jtassed up in canoes, and :'i;>rched to Hchcnec-
tady, whi(di they destroyed with GO of its ]ieople, returning with '21 pri.soncrs, and
40 lioi-ses laden with iilinider. Shortly afterward Col. iScluiyler and "JOO Moliawks
l»ass(^d the lake and the Richelieu lliver, and destrove<l the Canadinn town of
Sorel. In iCillo the chivalrous Count de Frontenac (a relative of Mailamy de
Mai ntenon) launched a fleet of small craft, and pa.ssed down to Whitehall with
700 Frencdnnenand AlgoiKiuins. After a daring foray througli the Mohawk Valley
and nearly to the forts at Albany, he retired safely by Whitehall, jiursued by
Schuyler and the Hudson Valley people. The lake was held by the Fvenedi and
eonnnanded by their fortifications until 17')'.', when Lord Andierst buiit .! flotilla
in - "ith Ray, with a Hag ship mounting IS guns, in whi'di Capt. Lo -ing swept
and won this inland sea. The military and naval oi>erations around the lake will
he considered in connection with the points of action.

Lake Champlain is a large and picturesr^ue .sheet of water, running
nearly N. and S. for 126 M., with a breadth of from 1 furlong to 15
M. Its waters are clear, and abound in l)ass, pickerel, salnion-irout, nd
other fish, while the depth varies from 9 to 47 fathoms. Tiiere are many
i.slands in the lake, the largest of wliicli covers an area of 18,«)00 acres,
and has a population of 1,300. Besides numerous pleasant villages and
towns, there is one city on the lake, and the llcets used in commerce hero
number many thousands of tons. Tliere is a large trade done between the
rivers, the Hudson being joined to the lake by a canal 64 M. long (to
Watervliet), while the Richelieu River aifords an ontUit to the St.
Lawrence. The scenery of the Vermont shore is that of a quiet pastoral
region, with the Green Mts. rising in tlie distant E. The New York sliore
presents a continual sifccession of barren and mountainous sceiu:ry, with
occasional foot-hills of the Adirondacks pushed out in promontories, and
the parent peaks looming blue in the distance. ^

There are four elegant steamers i)lying up and down the lake. On the arrival
of the 3.15 p. M. and of the G a. m. trains from Montreal, steamers leave Rouse's

1 Champlain was born of a good fiimily of 'the province of Snintonfrc, in 1 j'O. Ho became
a naval otticer, and afterward wiis attached to the person of Kinp Henri W . In Itjd.? he ex-
plored the St Lawrence lliver up to the St. Louis Rapids, and afterward (until hin death in
Iti'io) lie explored the country from Nantucket to the ncad-wateiH of the Ottawa. He was a
brave, morcifid, and zcalou'" chief, and held that " the salvation of one soul is of more im-
portance thuii the foundinfj of a new empire." He established strong misBions among the
llurons, fought the Iroquois, and founded Quebec.

362 Route 53.

FORT TICONDEUOGA.

ill

■I ■

■It

•f'l '

'i )

I
c

Point at. 6 1*. M. niul atfi.l.'i a. m., arriviiiK at Wliiti'liall n^Hiieotivply nt UAh a. m.
nmlJ.ir) I'. M. Htraiiit'i's h-uve Wliitcliall fnrtlic north at S.'iO w m aii<l lo l'. a. m .
icacliiii',' I{<>iist'')s I'oiut respectively at 7 a. m. ami H.'M) v. m. The boats leaviiii^
Svhitf'liallat 1(1.4') and Rouse's Toint at S. 1,'), roniieet at Ti(Oiiih'ro;,'a with stages
for I,al<e (Jeor^e (4 M.), where jinsseii^^ers take tiie steamer to Caiilwell. arriving
tliere, at 7 r. M. (Tinie-taliles of 1S72.) fState-rooms are, (hisirablo on the niylit-
boats, while a lino dinner («! 1.00) is given on the <lay-houtH.

From Whitehall to Fort Tidonderog.i (24 M.), ami oven to Crown Point,
the lake is very narrow, and s(.'enis more like a fine river. Daring the
first part of the journey tlie hills of Dresden are seen boldly looming on
the W. and Blaek Mt. is seen beyond, while the " Drowned Lands " lie
along the shore. The unimportant lamlings in Benson and Orwell (both
in Vermont) are stoj)i)ed at, and then the steamer reaches

Fort Ticonderoga

(Fort Ticonderoga Hotel, ,$3.00 a day, an old mansion house near the
lake and landing). There is a railway-station about 1 M. N. of the fort,
])ertaining to a branch of the Vermont Central Railroad, which diverges
from the main lino at Leicester Junction. The new route from New York
to Montreal (W. of L. Cliamplain) most of wliicli is nov>' in working order,
passes near the fort on the W. Steamers going eaeli way stop here twice
daily, and the Lake George stages leave early each afternoon. The ruins
of the fort crown the high liill near the steamljoat pier, and are (piite
picturesque, and command extensive lako-views. The sally-port where
the Green Mt. Boys entered, the old well, the crumbling walls of the
barracks sui'rounding the parade, and the well-defined dry ditches beyond
tlie ramparts may easily be recognized. In one of the E. bastions is a
deep and cavernous vault which it is surmised was the garrison bakery.
On the high point S. E. of the fort is the well-preserved Grenadiers' Bat-
tery, erected to command tlie landing-place and to defend the long brii'lgi'.
to Mt. Ridependence. Tliere is another small battery surrounded by a
wet ditch, on the plain to the N., while the forests to the S. and W. are
furrowed with intrenchments and lines of parallels, redoubts, and rilh-
pits. From the ramparts of the fort Mt. Independence is seen to the 8.
E., across the lake, and Mt. Defiance to the S. W», across the wideniiig.s
of the outlet of Lake Gecge. The latter summit is 800 ft. above the
lake, and commands a noble view over its placid waters. It is l.'o.st
ascended by following the nearly obliterated military road of Burgoyi;e
from Ticonderoga village (3 M. fi-om the fort to the summit). Others,
who are fond of the fine rowhig which is obtained here, cross the bay iu
a boat, and scramble up through the forest to the summit. A road runs
W. from Ticonderoga to Paradox and Schroon Lakes.

Ticonderoga is a niodilieation of Cheonderogo, the ohl Iroquois name for this
locality. It meant "sounding waters," and apphed especially to the tails on the

li.

',..\:, A. M.

1) »"> A. M..

ith 8tii;4«'H
1. arriving
Mc nialit-

xw Point,
uring tlio
oming on
liui.ls" U»'.
,vcll (both

FOUT TICOXDEUOGA.

Route /)3. 363

?. near the
,f the fort,
^h tU verges
I New York
•king order,
I here twice
The ruins
(1 are (luite
-port whore
alls of the
ihes beyontl
.stions is a
hakery.
Iiatliers' Bat-
long hrit'lge
luutled by a
aud W. are
:s, and ritle-
'n to the B.
le wideuings
It. above the
It is best
if Burgoyr.e
t). Others,
the bay iu
road runs

Inanie for this
falls ou the

outlet of r.ake Ooorj;e. Cajit. Glen in Hpoken of as IioMIiik this poiiit with a
jijclift nf';t;{ iiion, ill 16'.>n, and 111 KilU it was f(irtifli'«| byC.il Hclmyli'i, wlio wun
tlifii Iriiliii;^ a forcti aKaiiist l^a I'raifie. In IT/i") tiic Mai(|nis i\v iMitntrilin occii-
]>i('(l Uk- place with a stinn^ FrtMicli aniiy, iind liiiilt cxttMisive worlds, wiii<h he
iiaiiinl I'ort Carillnii I ("cliiiiH! of hells"), in allusimi to tlio musical casjaih'S
in till! vi<'inity. Gen. Alieni'inniiie, haviii.:,' dcsiTuded iiaUe. {lenr^'e with 7,000
IJritisli r(';,'iilars and '.".ooo provincial troops, attempted to stonn the fort, .Inly 8,
IT.'iS. Tlie scouts told Ahercronihie that the fort was weak, and he knew that
reinforeeiiieiits were Inirryiu;; to the garrison, so au assault was onhsroil. In ad-
vancing' tliroii;,'h tin; forest a deta(diinciit of l.'iO Frencliiucn boldly en;^'a,L;ed and
clieckrd the van-L,oiard. Isra(d rntiiaiii and Lord Howe hastened up to tlie scene
nt' the skirmish, ami Howe was almost instantly killed. "His mainn-rs and his
virtues made him the idol of the army," and " in him the soul of the, army sccmcil
to exiiire." Massachusetts erected a monument to this ^'allaiit nolileman in
Westminster Abhcy. The Kremdi dutachment was exterminated, hut the An;,do-
Anierii'an trooi)s became cntau;;!*'!! in the forest and be;an to lirt; on each other,
until they were withdr.nwn. (i.OOO pi<'ked niei\ were led out to storm tlie I-Ycnch
works, which consisted of a breastwork (8 ft. hi,i,di) au<l abatis, defended by l.OoO
men with artillery. Four hours of fearless <'harKin^,' aud bloody repulses ensued,
and the few men who Ki'ined the ])arap(!t dieil tliere on the veiKc of victory. At 7
in the evening', after three heroic assaults had failed, and scver.d boats had been
sank on the lake with all on board by the artillery of the tort, the army re-
treated, lejivin;; nearly -',000 men dcail and \vounde(l on the (ifdd. Lord .lohn
JIurray'.s ni;,dilaiul re^duieut(so distiiiKnished at Fontenoy, 1". years before) lost j
of its men and 2.j oHic<us. In March, IT^'jS, llo;.,'ers' IlauKcrs were disastrously
repid.seil from the outworks of Carillon. In the summer of 17.V.> Lord Amlier.st
nilvanced from the S. with 11,000 men, and the F'rencli fiarrison, w(>ak(>ned by the
necessity of meeting Wolfe before Quebec, evacuated the place after burning tho
barracks and e.\[ilodin;,' the ma^^azine.

At dawn, May 10, 177.0, the fort was surprised and taken by 8.5 Xew En,!,dan<l
men, who liad crossed the lake on the juevious eveniui;. They \vere comniandeil
by Kthan Allen and IJenedict Arnold, who led tluMU tlirough the '.^ate and out on
tlie para'"'?, where (it is said) Allen aroused Cai)t. de la IMac o, tht comman<lant.
and demanded the surrender of the fort "in the name of the Great Jehovah and
the Continental Congress." 4;j soldiers were surrendere<l with the fort, to^^ether
with 176 cannon and vast supplies of ammunition. When Bur.i^'oync advanced,
ill the suiniuer of 1777, and Arnold's fleet had been defeated ou tlu! lake, the de-
fence of Fort Ticonderoya was intrusted to Gen. .St. Clair, with .'.(iOO Continental
troops, OOO militia, and 47 fortress-cannon. He destroyed the works toward liake
George, and strongly i'ortilicd Mt. Indeiiendence (remnants of the star-fort, and
graves of hundreils who died of canip-distenii)er are now found in the young forest
on the, mt.). The bridge to Mt. Independence was a iiowcrful floating structure,
siii)iM)rted by 22 sunken piers and many lloats. Burgoyne's fleet was cannonaded
mid forced to keep out of gun-shot, but the British succc(!ded in getting cannon
up on Mt Defiance, with which a ])lunging fin; was openetl on the fort. On the
night of July (5, St. Clair evacuated the position, and would liave escaped but that
Gen. de Fernioy set lire to his (piarterson Mt. Indepeudeiiee. The aroused enemy
made rapid pursuit, defeated St. Clair's rear-guard at Ilubburdton, ami took Ids
artillery and stores at Whitehall, with '200 galleys and the remnant of Arnold's
fleet. Ten weeks later, Col. IJrown, of Mass., with 1,000 men of New Faigland,
captured the outworks of Ticonderoga, with *J00 batteaux, 20.'i i)risoners, ."> cannon,
and a war-ves.sel, and delivered 100 Ameriean jirisoners and a Continental flag.
The fort was dismantled a few weeks later, and in 1780 was re-occn]>icd by Gen.
Haldiniand with troojis from Montreal. Since the Revolution, Ticinderoga has
not been oecu])ied, and for many years it suffered a gradual demolition, — its well-
cut stone and brick being carried away by ve.ssel-loads to the rising villages on
tlie lake'. It is now .sealed from such invasions, ami is becoming known as one of
the classic and lieroic grounds of .\merica. July 18, 1872, the Vermont Historical
Society had a licld-day here, and there wereio.oiio iieojjle present. The fort is on
a iieninsula rising 100 ft. from tin; lake, with water on three sides and swami>y
land on the fourth. The peninsula covers over 500 acres.

, 1 " La Drapeau dc Carilloa '
(Quebec.

is an old Canadian song, which may still be heard in I<ower

' \

i !■

•t-i

ii' i:

3G4 Rnul^ 6S.

CROWN POINT.

'I-

■ Tlie steamer passes throiigli tlie raihvay-bridgo soon after leaving Tort
Ticonder ga. Ijeantiful views are oecasionally gained of Camel's Hump
and Mt. Mansfield on the E., and the majestic Adirondacks on the N. \V.
Tlie boat stops at Lavrabee's Point in the Vermont town of Shoreham,
and then at Cv ,ni Point ((Junnison's Hotel), ',) M. M of Crown Point vil-
lage, whence a roail runs W. to I'aradox and Schroon liakes and the Aili-
rondacks. A short distance Iwyond this landing, the steamer passes
through the narrows between Chimney Point (on the E.) and

Crown Point.

Tlie ruins of the fortress of Crown Point occu]\v the high promontory be-
tween the lake and tlie broad IJulwagga Bay. The jioint is reached either
by boat from Port Henry, or by carriage around tin; bottom of the bay
{6-7 M.). Theie is a liglithouse on the point, but otherwise it is aban-
doned to its ancient remains of strength and pride. The immense ram-
jiarts and ditcluis of the fort, its broad para<le, and the thick stone walls
of the l)arra('ks are richly worthy of attention, while from the walls of the
northern bastions are ol)tained supei'b views of the Green Rlts. in the K.
and the rugged foot-hills of the Adirondacks in the W., with the lake
stretching away for many leagues in the N. The jieninsula is about 1 Jl.
wide, and has only a thin robe of earth over limestone ledges, whose cut-
ting away cost enormously during the erection of the fortress. '" yards
N. E. of the great fort, and near the water, are the ruins of the c ncli

work, Fort Frederick. In the N. E. bastion is a well cut in the rock, S
ft. in vliameter and 90 ft. in depth, which was cleared out by a stock com-
pany in 1824, in the hope of finding treasure. There have been many ex-
cavations here with this object, but only old iron and lead has yet been
found. The ramparts arc brilliant with blood-red thorn-ai^iiles (in their
season) on great thickets of bushes. These peculiar trees are found no-
"^v.l';re else in the State, and are said to have been brought from France.

In July, 1G09, Cliaiiiplain, 2 Frendnnen, ami GO Ilurons came up to this roiiif
in 24 bark canoeS; and here tliey laiuloil and defeated the Iroquois, after passiii,'
the night in martial rites and singing the war-song. This was 2 months liufoiK
Hendrick Hudson had discovered the nolilo river which has been nuiued in his
lionor. In 1G.'U the Froneh oecupied Point ;i la Chevelure (opposite this place),
built a stone fort and armed it with 5 cannon, and established a fanning eoiii-
niunity. In 1G(36 De Coureelles ascended by boats (with GOO men) to Crown Point,
whence he marched into the Mohawk country, and on the retreat, some time af-
ter, the force halted here several days for their stragglers to come up. The de-
stroyers of Schenectady were pursued to Crown Point (in the winter oi" 1G90), but
here they put on skates and escaped. In IT^l Fort Frederick was built here by
the French, and iinmed in honor of Frederick Maurepas, Premier of the kingdom.
The shores were then more thickly settled than now, for many miles N. and S.
In 1759, after the fall of Ticonderoga, tlie fort was abandoned, and, the Point bein.i:
occupied by Lord Amherst, vast fortifications were erected here, which cost thr
British government §10,000,000. In 177;5 the barracks took tire and the ])OW(hir
magazine blew up, jtartly demolishing tlie works, and in 1775 Warner's Green ,Mi.
Boys captured the fort. 7,000 Americans retreated here from Canada in 177(), ;iii(l

■i>:

BUU[JN(}T()N.

livutc 53. 3G5

in;; Tort
s IIuiiii)
K- N. \V.
lort'liaiii,
'oint vil-
tit" A.li-

ntory Ix'-
ii'ileillicr
the l);iy
is abaii-
Misc rain-
Dne vails
ills of tlir
ill the K.
the lake
jout 1 ^1.
hoso cut-
•' yards
iicli
e rock, S
;ock cuiu-
luany cx-
yet been
(in their
ound no-
France.

:1iis To'\\\>

r passiii ;

ths lieftin;

iii;(l ill his

lis place),

uiiig coiii-

)Wii Puint,

e time af-

The do-

1G90), but

t here by

kiiigcloiii,

IN. and S.

oiut beiii.i;

1 cost till'

e ])0\vili<r
Gieeii -M'
I 177(5, ami

Itimdrcdd <1!ed from Hinall ]k)>c. In 1777 HiirKoyiie niaiU> tli<- tort IiIh main tle^iot
oJ'siijiplies ill fill) advaiici' lui Albany. The hut hiiilt liy l,nii[ Amheist was \ M,

iii'oiiixl, and its ranipartH were 'lb tt. Iiigh and '2r)ft. titiek. It inHtii' lug I preHer-

vatiiui.

.liiNt beyond Crown Point the stoanior 8toi).s at Port Henry (two inns),
a iiictnres<|n('ly sitnated villaj^i-, with iron works and mines. Ilulwaj^^a
Hay is seen openiii},' to the .S. After leaviii},' Pert Henry, a fine view is
oiitaiiietl of Mie Adirondacks in the W., JJahl ami Dix I'eaks and tluj
CJiaiit of the Valley being foremost in the groiii). The steamer next
tonclies nt Wcstport (two inns), on the W. shore, with a roatl running W.
into the Adirondaeks, by Klizaliethtown to W'liite Face Mt. On the K.
shore are seen the spires of tlie city iif Vergennes, ami Hit! inins of Fort
Cassiii, where Lieut. Cassiii, of the IT. »S. Navy, repelled an attack on
Macdonougii's fleet, which was being fittod out at Vergennes. Split
Kock Mt. frowns along the W. shore, and is mirrored in waters of un-
known dejith. Konnding the lighthouse at the head of the promontory,
llie steamer touches at Kssex {Itoi/ce's Ilntd), whence another road lead.s
lull) the Adirondacks. The course from Essex is N. E., passing the Four
Jjiuthers and Juniper Isles, ami approaching and stopping at

Burlington

(* American House; Van Ness House), the Queen City of Vermont,"
beautifully situated on a long, sloping hill on the E. shore of Burlington
JJay. It is the largest city in the State, liaving a jiopulation of about
15,000, with 15 churches, 2 banks, 1 daily and 2 weekly nev, spajiers.
In 1798 Burlington had S15 inhabitants, and between 1860 and 1870 it
[/ained 105 per cent in population. It became a city in 18G5, and is now
the third lumber-mart in America. Most of thelumber is brought from
the Canadian forests, and sorted and planed liere, after which it is sent by
rail to Boston and other Eastern cities. Immense quantities are loaded
iliiectly from the cars to the vessels (in Boston) which convey them to
distant ports. 40-50,000,000 ft. of lumber are yearly sent out from
Burlington. The wharves and grounds about the freight station are
usually covered with immense piles of plank and lioards. Several of the
churches are fine buildings, especially the Cathedral of St. Mary, a large
ami picturesquely irregular structure. St. Paul's Episcoi)al Church is au
old Gothic building of blue limestone, with stained windows. This is tho
church of the Bishop, whose diocese (the State of Vt.) has 27 priests and
2,655 communicants. There are also handsome Congregational and
Methodist churches, built of Burlington stone. Near the square in the
centre of the city is a fine U. S. building (Post OfHce and Custom House),
and the elegant Court House of Chittenden County.

The University of Vermont occupies an eligible situation on the sum-
mit of Burlington Hill, 1 M. from the Bay and 3G7 ft. above it. This in-

3GG Route 53.

BURLINGTON.

•f

& ■;■

i {

I .'

stitution was incorpor<ate<l in 1791, atid be<?an operations in 1800, the
President V>eing the only instructor for the tirst (> years, wlien about 30
students were entere'l here. Its connection with the State is but nominal,
and lias brought it no emolument since its foundation, when Vermont
endowed it with a grant of 29,000 acres of land. Ii^ 1813 the building
was taken by the United States, and retained throughout the war for an
nr.scaai and barracks. In IS'24 the buihlings were burnt, and rebuilt in
1825. tiie corner-stone being laid by Gen. Lafayette. The three buildings
have been united in one, and surmounted by a briglit, tin-covered dome.
In 1871 the University hud lo instructors, 114 students, and ir),000 vol-
umes in its library. There are about 900 alumni. Tlie medical depart-
ment had, in 1871, 5 instructors and 25 students, and in 1865 the State
Agricultui'al College was united with the University. There are 50,000
specimens in the natural history cabinet.'-. From the dome of the Uni-
versity a superb * view is enjoyed.

On tlie W., Lake, Cliain;ilaiii is seen f''om bclovv Crown Point on tho S. to Platt^-
burg on the N., v.itlMiunu'rous islands surrounded by tliu bright waters which
liavii lu'conio liassic In American history. Beyond the lake the Adirundacks till
the horizon, over ()() j)eaks being visible on a cleiU' day ; pronnnent among which
un^ Mclntyre, Whitefuce, and Marcy, the latter being the highest jteak Iwtween
tin- White and the Alleghany Alts. Lake Chaniplain is 10 M. >vide here, and near
the niidiUe are seen the islets called the F.-iu- brothers. The ])lainsof Chittenden
Co. are seen in the N. E. over the little vill.ige <.! Winooski, and in the E. are the
•stav iy Green Mts., the Tr /7s iVr(«/.s for whicli the fState wr.s named. Mt. Mans-
^iehl, Camel's Hump, and other well-known peaks are i)lainly visible, with a vast
expanse of (arm-land tilling the foreground. Uurlington City is overlooked on
the W., stretching down to the shores of its bay. The * sunset over the lake and
the Adirondacks when seen from this point, or from the little park N. VV. of tho
central squar.>, is full r.i beauty. *' .Splendor o lund.scape is the peculiar boast of
Uurlington," said Pres. Dwight in 17!i8 ; and Fredrika Bremer speaks of the dis-
tiUit "mountain forms pictures(iuely coml)!!!!!! with a certain degree of grandeur
ami V)ohlnes.s." The view looking W. towards a jieak which she calls''/^ 'ion
cvitrluoit" she jironounced sujjerior to any lake view which she had ever seen, ex-
cepting only one on Lake Geneva.

Near the University is the Green Mt. Cemetery, in which Ethan Allen
is buried, under a Tuscan column 42 ft. high, and a sliort distance be-
yond is the village of Winooski, at the lower falls on the Winooski River.
Near this village is a romantic canon on the river, at the IIi;/h Bridcje,
where the impetuous stream has cut a goi-ge through the solid rock 90 ft.
deep and 70 ft. wide.

Burlington is an academic city, having besides the University several
fine .schools, among which is tlie Female Seminary (established 1835),
which has nearly 900 alunuuT. The Sennnni-y has handsome building.s on
a hillside near the lake. The Vermont J-Jjiscopal InstUnte is on Rock
Point, 2-3 M. from the citj', and near the lake. It has u fine marble
building in the collegiate Gothic architecture, with a email but elegant
chapel, a massive tower, and a library which is rich in patristic literature.
The theological department has 5 i)rofessors and 50 students, with 231

rLATTSBURG.

Houie 53. 3G7

00, tlie
)out 30
(iminal,
erniont
miUliug
for an
built ill
iiildings
L dome.
)00 vol-
dej)art-
\(i State
! 50,000
he Uiu-

to Platte-
rs whicli
lacks nil
iij^ wliiili

lK!tWl't;ll

and iii'iir
liittendi'ii
K. arc the
At. Maiis-
itli a vast
noked on
lake and
iV. of tlio
boast of
If the dis-
^'ran<loui'
" If 'ion
seen, ex-

[n Allen
nice be-
Li River.

Ik 90 ft.

several
ll 1835),
lliiiga on
]u Rr>ck
marble

1 elegant

n-ature.

lith 231

alumni, and is called the most expensive divlnity-scliool in tlie Union.
About 2 M. S. of the city is the U, S. Marino llosi)ital, fronting on the
lake.

Burlinj?ton was settled ahouv. 1775, and named in honor of tlic Bnrlin-; family
(of New York), who were ai..i>ii<i the grantees. It lay on the route V)y the Winoo-
ski Valley, whieh had been so often traversed by the northern Indians in tlieir
attacks oil Miiss. It was fortilied and "garrisoned by 4,000 troops in tii» War of
1812, and in the War of 18G1 -.') sent many soldiers to the national armies.

Stages leave Burlington daily tor the rr.ral towns of St. (>eorg«' and Ilinesburg.

Two trains daily leave iJuriii gton for Montreal. From Burlington to Essex
.lunctiou it is 8 M. '
hours.

Essex t'j Montreal, see page 'Mi.. Distance, 103 M., in 5i-6

Leaving Burlington, the steamer run.s N. W. across the lake to Po^t
Kent (2 hotels), a small villag^i under Mt. Trembleau, and important for
its exportation of iron. The old Watson Mansion is seen on a hill over
the village. Stages riui from Tort Kent to the Ausable Chasm, with its
grand succession of cascades an I gorges. The Adirondack and Ausable
Houses are at Keeseville, near the Chasm. Stages also run to leaker's
Saranac Lake House (-IG M. W.;, while a road diverging to the S. \V. at
the Ausable Forks enters the nts. through Wilmington Notch and by
Wliite Face and Lake Placid. 6-8 M. N. of Port Kent the steamer
passes between Valcour Island and the mainland. In this channel Ar-
nold's fleet, consisting of 15 vessels with 70 cannon, was attacked by a
British squadron of 31 ves.«; Is. After a hot day's battle, in Avhich 2 of
Arnold's and 3 British vessels were sunk, the Americans tried to retreat
by night, but were closely pursued. The flagship "Congress" was sur-
rounded by hostile ships, but fought desperately for 4 hours, until the
van and centre of the fleet luul escaped. Then Arnold ran her and the
attendant galleys ashore below Port Kent, and blew them np (Oct. 11,
177t5). Grand Isle, or South Hero, is now passed on the E., and the vil-
lage of Plattsburg (FouqueVt- Hotel ; Cumberland House) is reached. It
is a llouri.>'.hing place at the mouth of the Saranac River, and is the .shire-
town of Clinton County (N. Y. ), and a garrisoned post of the U. S. Army.
There is a railway from Plattsburg to Montreal (()3Jt M. ; trains in -U - 5
lirs.) ; also to the Ausable River (20 M. ; trains in H-2 lirs.). The lat-
ter road, with the stages which connect at the Ausable River, forms the
liest route to the Saranac and St. Regis Lakes, and the lofty central group
of the Adirondack Mts. The Long, Raquette, Fulton, and Tnpper Lakes
are most easily reached by the Adirondack Railroad (from Saratoga).

So|it. 7, 1S14, Pl'ittsbiirg was menaced by a British anny of 1-1,000 men under
Sir George Prevost, supported by a fleet of 1(5 vessels, witli '.Tj guns and 1 ,000 nii-n.
The defence was conducted by (Jen. Macomb, with ;j,Oi;0 men in tlie village, and
Cimiinodovo Macdonoiigli, with a "lect of 14 vessels, 8(i guns, and SSO men. When
tlie British He»'t rounded Cnniberl.ind Head for the attack, Maeilouough was kiied-
iiij; 1)11 his deck jiraying. A rooster, who had got loose m the liurry of iin-jjara-
ti'Mi, lli'w upon one of the "Saratoga's" guns ami crowed lustily, upon whi(di the
iiicii gave three (dieers and weiit to work with a will. .\s the fleets met, the two
flagships engafe'ed each other, and the American " Saratoga " was sadly cut up by

^ jm'itmfmmmm

3G8 Route 54.

jaONTHEAL.

the more i)o\vorfi(l Biitisli vessel, tlie "Conrianct'." By ;i skilful maiKX'Uvre Mao-
(li)iiou^')i swiiiii; his ship around, ind i)res<'iit('(l tlio iiiiiii.jurt'il side and battery tn
the eueiiiy, who was unable to imitate tiiis action, and was speedily forced to
yiehl. After 2h hours of iii'cssnnt cannonade, the battle was decided against the
British, who lost all theii .ssels save a fewrow-f;alleys. In the mean time, Pre-
vost was rei)ulsed by till -uldiers at Platlsbnrg, and lost heavily, besides being
forced to abandon much of his arJlleiy and stores.

Tlie steamer passes down the l)ay and rounds Cumberland Head, witli
Grand hie on the E, The sh Dres now become more level, and the mts.
are only seen in retrospective .iews. Tlie islands of North Hero and Isle
La Mott^i, and the peninsula of Alburpfh are passed on tlie E., and (25 M.
N. of Plattshurg) the steamer j^tops at Rouse's Point (see page 207). Two
trains daily run from this i>la(e to Montreal (50 M.) in 2\ hrs., following
the Richelieu River to St. Johns (see page 208), and thence crossing the
parishes of La Prairie and Loi gueil to I\Iontreal.

i '.

J ':■

6'L Montreal

Hotels. — St. Lawrence Hall, on Groat Ht. James St. ; Ottawa House, Great
f^aint .lames !St. ; Donnegana House, Notre Dame St. ; Albion Hotel, $1.50 a dav,
McGill St.

Carriages. One-horse carriage, for 1-2 pijrsons, 25e. a course (within the
city), 50c. an hour ; for 8-4 jiers ms, 40c. a course, 70c. an hour. Two-horse car-
riages, for 1-2 persons, 40c. a coi rse, 75('. an hour ; for 3-4 persons, 50c. a course,
8 1 .00 an hour.

Shops. Tlie most attractive ire on Great Saint James and Notre Dame Sts,
Ameiican money is usually recei'ed at the reigning rates of exchange, but it is ad-
vi.sable to punliase sutlicient Canadian money for the tour at some reputable
bank.

Horse-cars run across the c ty on Craig, Bleury, and St. Catharine Sts. ; also
on St. Mai'y, Notre Dnine, and St. Joseph Sts^ ; also out St. Lawrence Main St.

RBilways. To Bostnii, by St. All)ans, Concord, and Lowell (Route 29), 3'M
M. (or by way of Fitchburg, 344 M.) ; to New York, bv Rutland and Aibanv, 3(j5
M. (by ];,ake Chamiilain, 4Uo M.) : to Quebec, 172 M."(in 7 hrs.); to Plattsburg,
03 M. ; to Rouse's Pohit, 50 M. ; to Toronto, 333 ,M. (14- 15 hrs.) ; to Detroit(S01
M.) and Chicago (1,145 M.) ; to C'ttawa, 104 M. Steamers run to all the St. L.uv-
reuce and Lake port.s.

■! >

•i" ,>

I s

• >

' 3

In the year T535 Jacques Cartic • visited the trij>le-walled Indian village of Hoehe-
laga, and asceiuled the lofty hill hehind it, which, from the Ixauty of its view, lie
named Mount Royal. Tlie jilace was visited by Chamiilain in 1('(()3, and was .settled
by a small cclony of Freiiehmeu. .\ tax-gatherer of .Vnjou and a priest of Paris
heard celestial voices, bidding them to found a hospital (Hotel Dieu) and a college
of priests at Mount Royal, and tlie voices wen; followed liy aiiparitionsof the Vir-
gin and the Saviour. Filled with sacred zivil, and brought together by a singuhir
accident, these men won several nobles of France to aid their cause, then bougliL
the Isle of Mount Royal, and firmed the Society of Notre Dame de Montreal.
With the Lord of Maisoniieuve and 4.') associates, 'in a solemn service held in tln^
Cathedral of Notre Dame de Paris, tiiev (Consecrated the island to the llolv Family
lUider the name of "Ville .Marie de .Montreal ^ (Feb., 1041). May IS. 1042, Mai-
soniieuve and his peojile landed at Montreal and raised ai altar, before wliieli,
when high mass was concluded, the priest said, " You are a grain of mustard-
seed that shall arise and grow ui til its branches overshadow the land. You are
few. but your work is the work ( f (iod. ITis smile is on you, and your children
shall lill the land." Tlie Hotel Dieu was founded in 1047, and in 1057 the Siiliii-
eians of i*aris cstablishcda scmii,ai'y here. In Uis.t, l,4oO Iroquuis Intlians storme I

^ >•'•

iivre Mao-
battery t()
forced to
gainst the
tmip, I're-
ides being

;ead, wiUi
the mts.
■0 ami Isle
tnd (25 M.
>07). Two
, following
i-ossing the

House, Great
,$1.50 a day,

e (within tlie
wo-horse car-
50c. a course.

re Dame Sts.
0, \)ut it is ad-
)nie reputable

•ine Sts. ; also

ice Main St.

[^outc 20), 334

I xVlbany, :50u

,, Plattsburji,

M Detroit (801

the St. Law-

ALT"

•chhigltop's Palace. T 4.

lack Xuniifry. E. .'».

ra.;^- „ A.;J.

iitin4iry of' St. Sulpice. K. ;>.

„ Priests. A.X'

Murys CoIUtf,: D. .{.

/■. dill C t!.

Olson's „ II. 4.

"ni^rcil. irosftilnl . Ii.'l4.

')M rticu E.l

Wifijuf JihtAr. B.:J.

'.ctoria Square. I). 4.

lare^ D'Arm*-s. . £..'».

'ffer Square. . F. 4.

^uiiup tie Mars V. 4.

Ilolol.s.

'. Lfiwren ce I fall . E . 4.

James i).4.

ttawa.. .D.S.

Ihion. D.r>.

. li .SlaHon. r..;».

BDEnamnc

JDI

<*<i

'If

■^

^asEs:

la mgcj.

flDDD

^^^WMm^^^sm

Montreal:

.City Hall and Bon se-

cours Market. F.5.

Poid Office . E4.

Court House. . . . F.4.
. Paftinea.li Market. VLA.

St. Ann's „ D. 5.

St. Patrick's Hall. . D.4.
. Military School . . . P. 4,

Crystal Paiaiv. . C.3.

7\.. Arch bishop's Fala<'*'. f 4.
2%. Black iVunnrry. E.J.

ZS.iifray „ X.'.i.

Zi.Scntinary tjfSf. Sulpice. E. 5.
25. „ Prietts. A. ~.

26.St.Mary!i ColUufc.
27. Mc. a ill
2S.Molaan's „
'29. (icn^^rul- ITotipHal .
'Mi.HoM fiieu.
'i\.jSJ,\afi.7ttf Rink:
i'Z.Victoria Square.
?8t.Plaxr0 D'ArnK's.
?A.Viffer Square. .
35. Clunnji de Mam.

Hotels.

'A^.Si . Lfcwren ce f/alf .
il. St. James.
T^.Oaawa^.
.W. Albion.
\fy.R.R. Stat ion.

C. 'I.
II.4.

E.l.
B.:J.
1).4.
E..5.
F.4.
F.4.

...v.f-i

th
do
th

ar
Li

N.
tn
th
pa

Sa
M

oil

M
M

63
M
re

lai
ns

??
h<

ao
th

Ci
ui

so
w
se
ft',
sli
fi

-MONTIIKAL.

noiUeSl ;JG9

tlie western subiirli- • «'UJ

""■"• *■'"• '''•'•scot s / ' • '■""' "'"-^ 'l"l'".'>t.'.| ; ' ''" '•"t'"-l^v,| Monf,;^

. Montreal Cl'^-innn .- i i •

h- ^-. H. ^ 'ml, tn:;--;^ --'-;.. -r'::.,;;^ :;t:-

f"" ■'■'"'" '» )i M. '.vi,!.. o,,„„.i,' ;■'""'""■ fc'^"'l^'" of (.a,„ulu. Tl,. St

'■'-"."•S. T,„. .„„„„,„,„ ,,„" • -^ "l; ^" Live,.,,,,,,,, ,,„,,,, „„, .^ '
J»"''lHig.s IS vcfv Iar<n- •'« <,f ti ' "" ^^'^' """il'er of fiiu. „„i ,•

' "i. ilall f,„„t on this .„,„„„ Tl,;', ;; . "^^ I''"l''i"i,', md St

.^ ft^-ule and ,,a,s a cleaned windt o 't,:,f /•\^^^^'^ ^^- ^-'^ and
r, The interior i. not .strildn^^ Hnd t 1 "^ ^'^^'"^^ ^^^^'"^^ ft. in

Mowers on the front, each o|o f ) ^ ^'''^'""'•^ "'"^ P'^"'"- TJ.ere al

^ JJ'^. and in the other hun.'.s - G o f ^ , "' ^o^v.rha, a dume

^ '2 weighing nearly 15 ton . nTtolT "'" ''^ ^^^^^^^^ ^^^^^

^« I e doo,keeper). and aifords fron its . '^^'^f^^^ ^^'^^ (-"all

""'^ ^ts environs (especiallv of tl^r ^ n ^'f '^^ * ^•'■-^' -^' tl-

1''* ' '''''' t^'^' I>ndge, and islands)

'i,-

I' •'

370 R(mtc54.

MONTREAL.

■I '

I"* '■

I !

Alongside llu; cljurc]) is tlie aiiciciit Seminary of St. Sulpicc, on tlic siti-
of Iho Seniiiiury of 1057, us tlu; churcli is near the .site of the Notre
JJiiuie of 1071. The i)r('seiit church was Iniilt 1824-9, and was conse-
crate<l l^y the Bishop of Telmesse in ixirtihus. Fronting on tlic Place
(rArnicH is the elegant Ontario Bank and tlio hall of the (Jrand Lodge
of Ma.sons of Canada. A short distance to the R, on Notre Dame
St.. an archway on the r. adnnts one to the extensive and sccludcfl Con-
vent of tlie r.lack Nuns, Farthe' on, the Court House is seen on tlie 1., —
a stately stone buiMing in the Ionic architecture (oOCxTia ft.), hack of
which is the Champ dc Mars, or Parade Cround, an open sjiace covering
r>(i,<)(>0 scjuan; yards, and fronted by the great building of tlie Dominion
Military Scliool. Just beyond the Court House, the .Tac<iues Cartier
S(iuare opens ofl* Notre Dame St., and is encund)ercd with a dila])idated
monument to Nelson. The Jacques Cartier Normal School (in the ancient
French Government building) and the Institut Canadien (with a fine
lilirary) front on the Government Garden, at the head of this scpiare. By
the next side-street (St. Claxide) to the r., the Bonsecours Market may
be visited. This market is imrivalled in America, and is built of stone,
at a cost of $30f),0()0. It is 3 .stories high, has a dome, and i)resents an
imposing front to the river. The curious French costumes and language
of the country people who congregate here on market-days, as well as .some
peculiarities of the wares offered for sale, render a visit very interesting.
Alongside of the market is the Bonsecours Churi-h (accommodating 2,00ii)
which was built in 1058. A short distance beyond is the extensive
Quebec Gate Barrack, on Dalhousie S<iuare, while the Victoria Pier makes
out into the stream towards St. IlcJeiVs Isle (a fortified depot of amnm-
nition amlwawmte^'id). To the N., on Craig St., is the attractive Viger
Garden, with a small conservatory and several fountains, fronting on
which is Trinity Church (Episcopal), built of Montreal stone in Early
English Gothic architecture, and accommodating 4,000 persons. N. of
Trinity, and also on St. Denis St., is St. James Church (Catholic), hi the
pointed Gothic style, with rich stained glass. Some distance E. of Dal
honsie Sipiare, on St. Mary St., is Molson's College (abandoned) and St.
Thomas Church (Episcop.il), with the great buildings of Molson's brewer)'
and the Pa|)ineau Market and Sipuire.

McGill St. is an important thoroughfare leading S. from Victoria Square
to the river. Considerable wholesale trade in done here and in the inter
secting St. Paul St. The Dominion and Albert buildings are rich aiii]
massive, while just beyond is the extensive St. Ann's Market, on the sit;j
of the old Parliament House. In 1849 the Earl of Elgin signed the vj.
l)opular Rebellion Bill, upon which he was attacked by a mob, who al«
drove the Assend)ly from the Parliament House, and burnt that buildint
Commissioners' St. leads E. by St. Ann's ^Market and the elegant C//s/i-|

1 Ch

MONTREAL.

novleftl 371

the Bllf
^ Notre
,s conse-

lid I''^<^^«
re l>i"<^*'
idcA Cou-

), back of
e covering

,(.s Cartier

aUavi«^ivte(l
the ancient

with a fnie

sciware. By

ftarket nmy

,Ut of stoni',

[ presents an

and languiige

sweU as sonic

.y interesting.

odating %W
the extensive
via Pier makes
not of amniu-
ttractive Viget
fronting ou
stone in Ka''^>"
,ersons. N. of

ivtlioiic), i" ^I'f

. V of 1^11^
xuce li"' oi ^

doned) and St. |

Olson's bre^^•';v^•■

J Victoria Square I

|nd in the iuttt f

. are rich ;v

rket, on

the ^1

b sig

ued tht

a n

loh.

ut that

who 'i^'
builtlii'^

ch-:

•ant Cu

f.m

Ifnuse to tlie broad i>roiiienades on the river-walls. Ottawa St. leads to
till' W. to the j^eat masonry of tlx; Lachine Cuiial Basins ami the vieinity
of tlie Victoria Hriilge.

Kadi'gonde St. and Heaver Hall Hill lead N. from Vic-foria S<|nare,
p.issin-^' Zion Cliurcli, wlu're the (}ava//i riots took ))lae(' in iSi'tl], Tlio
;iiiiied congregation repnlscd the assailants twiee, and then the troop.s
restored peace, 40 men being killed or seriously wounded. Just above is
the Haptist Chureli, overlooked by the tall f'hureh of the ^fessiah (Tni-
t.iiian), with St. Andrew's Presliyterian Chiinh on the r. A few ste[>s to
tlie r., Lagauchetiere St. leads to Si. I'tUrick's Church, a stately Clothio
l.iiilding, L'lO ft. long by iM) ft. wide, aeeommodating i>,0()0 pei-sons, and
ailonied with a spire 22j ft. high. The nave is very loH \ , and tlie narrow
lancet windows are filled with stained glass. A short distanei- farther,
oil nieiiry St., are the massive stone buildings (»f St. Mary's ('ollego
(.lesuit), near the front of the Charch of the Gestl. The nave of this
.liun.'li (7o ft. high) is bounded by rich eomitosile coliinins, and the tran-
SLi>ts are 1 14 ft. long, while the walls are eovered with tine frescos.

Over the Ili^h Alt<ir is the Crueilixion, and the Adonttion (if the Spotless
T..ii;il>, aliDVe wliirli is tlie Niilivily. .\.,i,Minst the eoliniiiis ;i( llir iTossin;; of tlie
iiivc ami transoj)ts are statues nf St. Murk with a lion, St. Matthew with an ox,
St. Lake with a ehi'd, and St. .John with an ea;,'le. On the cfiliii;_' of the navo
/HI' frescos of St. Thomas Uei-mtant, the lUecdin^' Laiiil', and the Vir^'in and
Child ami I MiKelie choirs. Medallions alon;,' the nave contain |iortraitsof Ssaint.s
of the Old'".' of .Jesus. (>v<'r tlu^ .\ltar of the Virgin, in the 1. tiansr|it, is a IVcm-o
(if the Trinity, wvwv which is a jiaintin.L,' of St. Aloysins (ionza^a receiving' his tirst
cniini. union from St. Charles JJorromeo, Cardinal .Vnhhisho]) of Milan. To tiie r.
is a fre.sco of St. It,'natius F.oyola in tht; grotto of Manresa, and on the I. is Christ's
.Xppearunee to him near Uonie, whih; al)ov(! is Christ lUcssiu;^' Lilt i' Children.
Over St. Jo.seph's Altar, in the r. transejtt, is a iiaintim; of the Ktcrnal Father, on
the r. of which is another jiictun!, St. Stanislaus Kostka Heceiviu!^ Communion
I'lnm Angels. On the I. is a fresco of the Martyrdom of the .Jesuits at Xa.^'asiiki
(.Lilian) ; on the r. i.s the Martyrdom of St. Ainlrew JJohola. in Poland : andalMJVo
is the liaising of Lazarus. On the ceiling is the Holy Family at Work.

Turning now to the W. on St. Catharine St., one soon reaches Christ

Church Cathedral, the best representative of English G(jthic arehi-

tucture in America. It is built of Caen and Montreal stone, is crueiform,

anil a stone spire 224 ft. high springs from the centre of the cross. The

choir has a fine window and some carved stalls, and is laid v.dtli encaustic

tiles, while the pointed roof of the nave (67 ft. high) is sustained by

columns whose capitals are carved to represent Canadian plants. Near the

Cathedral is a quaint octagonal chai)terdiouse, used also for the diocesan

lihrary, and the house of +he Lord Bishop (and Metroi)olitan of Canada)

i> in the same vicinity. A short distance N. is McGill College, or IJui-

vorsity, which was endowed in 1814 and oi)ene(l in 1828. It is below the

I n'ser\'oir on Mount Royal, from which a charming view of the city and

[river may be gained. Some distance W, of the college, and fronthig on

[the same street (SherT)rooke). is the vast and inq)osing Sfniinunf nf St.

Mpice, for the education of Roman Catliolic priests. On St. C'atharine,

"iiiii-'ft-;

372 Wwienf^.

TIIH LACllINK UAI'IDH.

■ t

^ i

; i
f t
t i

h'>

I*' '

t i

! i

I t

near St. George St., is the Asyluin for tli« lUiiid, witli Ji cliai»el ricliiy ainl
ele;,Miitly (leeornted niul frescoed, ami Iniilt in ;i li;^'lil ami delicate forui of
li-')iiia;ie,s(iii(! arrliitectiire. W, of tlie ('atliedral is tli<! Erskiiie C'lmrrli
(i'nsl)yferiaii), and also tlie Clnircli of St. .lames the A|io.s|]»', a prraeeful
Gothic l)uii(lin;4 with an adniiralde tower an<l spire. Near the cemetery
on Dorchester St. iirv. the f(»llu\viii<^' churches, - the Wesleyan Methodi.st,
a graceful building in the English Gothic styh; ; the .American I'reshy-
terian, an e.\act copy of the Park Chureh in Brooklyn, N. Y. ; and the
Chundi (if St. Gcoige (Kjiiscopal), an elegant edilice in decorated (tothic
arclute(!ture, with deep transf]>ts. costly staineil windows, a timber roof,
and line sc^hool -huildiiigs jittaclied. On the K. side of this s(piare i.s the
liisliop'.H /'((face, near which are the slowly rising walls of the iniincuse
new Catholic f'athcilral, whii'h is to ho Inult on the model of St. Peter's
at Pv.onjc, though smaller. Farther to tlie W. on Dorchester St., on the
r., is seen the -ast, cruciform building of the (''ri'// Xinmrri/ (founded
1(>!)2), with a Foundling Hospital ami a liefuge for the infirm. Mont Ste.
Maiie is the large building opposite (across Dorchester St.), which was
erected for a Baptist College, but has become a ladies' boarding-school
under the Congregational Nims (of the lilack Nunnery, who havt , in the
city, r>7 schools and 12, 000 pupils. The order was founded by Marguerite
Bourgeoys in 1059). F.uther K. on r)f)rchcster St. are the fine buildings
of St. Paul's and the Knox Prcsliy terian Churches. There are many
other fine churches and i)ublic buildings in the city, and the streets toward
Mount Royal are lined with attractive villas.

There are ]deasant excursions from Montreal to Monklauds and the
Isle .Jesus; to Ilochelaga, the vast Convent of the Holy N.ime of Mary,
and Longue Pointe; to the Tanneries, Cote St. Paul, and Lachine, by
carriage; but the two favorite trips are to the mountain and to the rapids,
" Around the Mountain," it is M., by going out St. Lawrence Maui St.,
by the. immense Hotel Dieu, and u]) the long slopes to the pretty village
of Cote des Neiges. Ascending the mountain thence, a glorious view is
soon revealed, embracing tlie city, a great expanse of the river, with the
britlge, St. Helen's Isle, and Longueuil, and the blue peaks of Vermont
far away in the S. On the slojie of Mount Royal is the Cemetery, which
is entered by stately portals, and shows some very creditable monuments,
— esjjccially those of the Molson fanaly.

The L,acliliio Rapidtt are visiteil by taking tlm 7 A. M. train (at the Bonaveii-

tare ytali(in,)t;) l.:i( liim', wlicri' a steamer i.s in waitin^r, by whieli the tourist |
returns tlimuLrh tlie rai)i<ls to Montroal arriving about i) a. m.). After tiil<in,i,' a
pilot from tlie Indian villa;je of ('aiinlmawa;-'a, the steamer ])assesont.

" Suddenly a scene of wild .urandeur Imrst.s ujuin the eye ; waves are laslieJ ^
into sjiray and into breakers of a thousand forms by the submerged rocks whidi
tliey are dashed a.irainst in the headl'Mig imiietuosity of tlie river. Whirliiodls. ,i
Rtorm-lashed sea, the ehasm below Nia.i^ara, all minyle their sublimity in a ^iuu!
vni)id. Now )iassin]^ with liuditnin,!^ speed within a few yards of rocks, \slinli
did your vessel but touch them, would reduce her to an "utter wreck l)efore ti

MONTREAL TO QUKBEC.

lioiUe oo. 373

lurm «jf

gracefvil
■i\iuet*'ry
fUiodisl,

uiul tli«
ill Gothic
nU'X voof,
ue is the

imniense
St. Veter's
St., on the
^ (fomuU'tl

Muut Ste.

which wiis
(Un^'i-schuol

uivi , in the
Marguerite

le huihliiiK^
J are many
reets toward

ids and tho
luo of Ma^^^

Liiohine, hy
lo tho rapids.
Ice Mahi St.,
l.vctty viUu;^*'

prions view is

,.ev, with t\>e
of Veiinont

lietery, >v]iich
luonunients,

t\ie Bonaveii-
r-h the ti)i"i*t
After tiikini; a

(vJs are lafH'J

Whirll"^'*''^',''!
liitv in a snii; •? '

v.M-k8. >v»nij>.
l-eck before tM|

cr.i.sli rouM Hninid tijxin tlie ".-.; ; «li<l Hheevcii illvcrne in tlip loiwt from her coiirsp,
_ if licr licail wt'ir imt kf^>t sfmij^lit with tlu- ctdirHf of thf rapiil, she wniiJd 1if>
instantly .sultiiierK<'ii and rollcil omt iiiid over. H"tnri' u.s is an alisnlntc jirt'ci-
|iiii' (if wati'is ; on fvery side iif it bicakfis, iikf a ;!♦« HValanclic.'., aif tlimwii
)ii).'li into the air. Krc we can take a K'inici' at tlit> sv nc, tin- l-oat dcsfonils tlio
wall of waves and foam like a l»ird, and in a seiond a'^erwaixls you arc tloatin^; on
the calin, unrnllled Imwomi of 'lielow the rapids.' "

Tin- steamer, just before reachin;,' the city, pas.ses under the * Vlrtorin
BrldKC the lon^'est and costliest hri(lj,'ti in tho world. It consists oi' 'J.i spans of
•Ji-' It. each (tlu) centre oiH! lieinK'-'!;K» It. hmx) resting' on'-'l |.iers built of heavy
lihie limestone mas(Hiry, eenientiil jind irou-rivetrd. wjtii slLiip we(|;^'c laces to
the down c\irreiit The tubes cont.iininj,' the track are r.i ft. hl-li by 111 ft. wide,
and the bridge is ,ipi>roached by abutinent-i 2,(ioo ft. Ion;,' and '.'i ft. wid<', which,
with tlic (i.^S^ ft. of iron tiibiii;;, makes a total len^'th of it.l'.u ft. from ^rrad- to
^Tade, and over H M. froiu short; to shore. The bridge was bc-'Un in IS.'il, anil
liiiisheil in ls;V.) ; it used up 2.J0,0()0 tons of Htoin- and fs.noo tons of inui, and vonl
gti.ioo.diM). The viow of Montreal from the bridge is cme of the inoat beautiful
iiiiaj^inablc.

55. Montreal to Quebec— The St Lawrence River.

The larj,'(f an«l elegant royal mail steamers of the Hichclicu Coini'any leave the
Itirlidieu I'icr (fool of ,Iac(iucs < 'artier S(|uarc) at 7 i". -M. daily, and arm c , it (Que-
bec early the next mornin;,'. I birin^' the summer of 1872 a steamer of the siiue
line ran twice or thrice weekly between the two < ities, lea\ in^' at early mtirninjf.
It w.'is thought that this day-line would be <'oulinued, and if it is, it should b»'
jirel'erreil to the evening boats, as enabling the tourist to sec the river and its vil-
f.iges. FnniS to Quebec, (irsi class (with meals and state-room), ^;{.o<) ; second
class, .■? 1.00. The (irand Trunk Railway runs trains to (jiu'.btiu in 8 - 9 lir.s., by
w;iy ofSt. Ilyacinthe, Richmond, and Arthabaska.-

As the steamer passes out into the strciiii, tlie fort Hied ishmd of St,
Helen is seen in front, and fine views of the Victoria IJridgo, Mount Royal,
and the city are gained. Just helow St. Ilcden'.s I.sh', on the r. bank, i.s
l/mipiruil, where thore are many villas pertaining to wealthy city people.
A .sjiort di.stance below, on the 1. l)aidv, is Louguc Pointc. with the Con-
vent dv>i So'urs de la I'lovidence, and at D .M. from Mou'in-al I'niiitr di/.c
Trmibles is passed, witli its ancient vilhige, whicli dates from 1()74. The
steamer tlien enters the channels between the low, marshy islands of Bou-
eherville, famous for dm-k-shooting, and for the ice-dams which form here
at the elo.se of winter. Passing VareiDirs on the r., with the bold Beln'il
Mt. in the S., the mouth of the Riviere des Prairies is seen on the 1., with
the village of TJAssomption beyond, There are valuable ndneral .springs
near Varennes, from which a steamer runs to Montreal four times a week.
The river now passes between the ])arishes of Cap Michael, ^'en•heres,
Coutrecour, and St. Ours, on the r. bank, ana St. Sulpiee, La Valtrie, La
Noraye, and Dautraye on the 1. baidv. The s]iires of Berthirr are s/eu
on the 1., as another clu.ster of islands is threaded, anil the town of Sorel
is reached. This place occupies an important i)ositiou at the coiithi'.iuv,!
;of the Richelieu and St. Lawrence Rivers, and was fortified in 1(565 by
|(Iov. De Tf.'icey. For many years it was \\u\ summer residence of tlr3
Governors, and on being vioited by Prince William Henry of England (af-

371 RnutoBr). TIIK HT. LAWIlKNv't.: IirVKIl.

; ill

; i

ItTWiinls Williiiiu IV.) an al»()rti\(! utl<'Ji:|»t was iiia<lc to cli.iiij?t' its nanif
t. William Hcmy. Tins i>lace has about y,(MM) iiilialiitaiits, and is built
around a lar^u K(iuarc, near wliicli aro line llontan and Anv;lican cliutcln-s.
The hunting and llshing in this viciidty uie of jirovincial lanu', Tin
stcanirr now iiassi-s anotln-r arclMpidago, and at Ti M, btdow Hortd < ntcis
Liilcr SL I'llrr, a broadening of tin; river 2.') M. long and 9 M. wide. The
lake is shallow, but has a doe]) and narrow ehannel (partly artilicial),
which is marked out Ity Imoys and i)olus, and is used by large vessels.
Inimensi! hnnber-rafts are often seen here, drifting (U)wnward like floating
islands, and bearing sln-amers, sails, and the rude huts of the lumber-
men. In stormy weather on the lake these, rafts .sonu'tinu's come to
l)ieces. Sf>on after entering this broa<l expanse, the moutli of the St.
Francis lliver is .seen on the r., with the village of St. Fnincis. Below
the shoroH of Lu.s.saudiere and St. Antoinc, the mouth of the Nicolt t
River app(^ars on the r., and farther down (on the 1.) i.s the village ol
Fond du Lac. Threo Rivers is now ai»proa(hed, and the steann-r stoj's
midway lictween Montreal and (Quebec. This city was founthvl (as Trois
Kivieres) in UilS, and lias at present (),()()() inlialiilants, with a large tra'li'
in lun ber, which is brought down the St. Maurice River. The Catholir
Cutliedral, the Ursuline Convent, and other line builiUngs adorn the city.

The St. M'ltirice IUvcr waters a district of iiiiuifiise (ami unliUDWii) cxtciif,
atiniiiniin^ ill lakes ami in forests. I'ortiims (tf llils j^'reat iinrtlieni wilderness
liave Ix-eii visitcfl l>y tlie liiiiilMiiueii, who e(iii(liiet rafts to Tiirei; Uivers, wImit
tlie huiiliiT is s;iwe(i. Almiit iiH M. aliove tiie city are the imbh! Falln u/thr Shdir-
(tiirijaif, wihrc tlie ^'reat river iiluii;,'i's over a |ieriieii(liciiiar descent of l.Mi It., 1"
tween tlie Int'ty roel-js ciili'd //'» lint ml Mi' re and /><• liitnhoninii'. A few niih^salrnvf
are tli(> K;dls of tiie (iraiid-Mere. These falls are visited by cngafiiiiK canoes ainij
j;iiides at Tiiree Uivers, wiiile hiiiitini^'-parties conducted hy Canadian ruiitiijriii-
or AI,','on(|iiin Indians sonietinics pass tlience into tiie remote northern forests iiij
jiursnit of the lar.i,'er varieties ol' Kanie. Three Rivers is widely known for \U\
foundries, where hoy-iron ore > converted into car-wheels and stoves.

Opposite Three Rivers is Doixcet's Landing, at Becancoiir, the termimi'i
of a branch of tlie (Irand Trunk Railway (see Route 40), and to tlie N. E.,
across the St. Maurice, is the thriving village of Cap de la Magdelaiiici
The steamer passes Gcntilly (on the r.) and .stops at Batiscan, 17 M. bej
low Throe Rivers, then jiasses Ste. Marie and Ste. Anne, on the 1., an!
St. Pierre, on tlio r. Lotbinicre, on the r., is seen, and then the villa;]
of St. Croix, standing on Pointe Platon. Point aux Trcndiles marks t;::
transition from the low sliorcs toward Lake St. Peter to the lofty sumiiii:!
of the Laurcntian Mts. St. Augustin (1.) and St. Antoine (r. ) are iK.\j
jiassed, and then the mouth of the Chaudicre, Cap Rouge, ar.<' the vill;i-|
of St. Jean C-hrysostome. The hciglits of Point Lrci now -.iiipear on ti|
v., and on tlie 1. are the -walls and s))ires of Quebec. Travellers by i!
night-boat should make arrangements to be .awakened an hour bel''
reaching the end of the route, as the view of Quebec from the rivi i
early morning is a thing which can never be forgotten.

^n\

is bM»\>

,.,.\ rlltVVS

Hc Vfssr\s.

lea come t..
I of i^^^' ^*'

acaui»*.v stnVH

l\y kn.)WU U»i >^^

[^tovea.

aid to \h^- N- ^l
. Va Mat;«^^^^^^"i

I on the 1., H

Jic lofty svuuiniti

' e, an.l tlie viUaJ
bsv ui>l>e"vv on ti
[TraveUevs by v|
U an hour hd
from tlie rivcv

"jj-

Qri:»i:c.

«f Hf.slrtfun I'hurrft J',..».
4 h'fJ/f/fnon I'./t,

6 >V. .//.////{r/r . ". lU.

7 iSV. Sifinw/f!..'.'.....:...i\.2.

HSf.IfvrJi _"... C.*^

i\f^/r /Jnmrf/f.s-
yrr/t'f/rs IV r.

Ml fhrjihisliii/is Pnloif \\!S.
11 Scrnimiri \\*\.

1*2 Ltntillfnlntvi/if ICtV

XMividih'cfifmii v:x
15 r;,m/Sfsfa'.f:. i).:i.

Wi ( 'tm(mf(/fmitil : T/i.

17 (nnrj-ul Ihisfuhd W'i,,

18 Mm lit' ....". (-.1.

i»j/^/n).^vv i;.;j.

20 liniiwHrifl lleiiso Y.*\.

21 Cfurf Jli'irnC'.. .. li.'K

22 (nmn LunJstDrp. Y\,\.\
Z\ Iflf/lt Srhrot .. V.A.\
2*1 (ifiirrncr^ (ianjcn K.4.
25 Cn.slom IIpu^t - id. I
*}l^ Clianiphfht Morlctf V»\,\

27 .A/*/ R5.

28 Wolff s Mriuimenl ll.!?.
7!%i .iiiumvji ff^i/suhUd. .F.»».

30 .s>. .//7,,M- ^«^. . n.:i

*mW.'>cc.u. ^ KIM.

9«i //(//>« — '/ I «ii.

31" FaJAUie..,'.' . E.Ii.

35 Si. It'uis Hold . VaA . I

30 Slntfjnrflnji ■• . - l*).i>. !

37 ■/r»uJ^yI'jil/ilJnffs. Fi.'.V

38 /W /^/y^e^. . ■ E.3.

QtTl^KEC^

1 CaiJwJic C^fthe/IraJ' Ti,.».

2 &uflu'/m -'! Kl.

3 Ui^flc4/aff Ckun'Jh-. K***

4 PrfshjIeHwi " f'i.4,

5 xSV. John ( Colhl ': ( '.',i .

i^StJIaUhcH." \SX

7 Sf.istmveuj'.::. .•-.-A.2.

HHi.lioeh :' C.2.

9 N(j/tr JJamf fies

McftffjTs IVi.

M) (lirlih'jiliflp's Pnhft'c K.^i.

11 SerfiinMrr 1'^"^.

12 Lmnnhiimviiftf IC 3,

ItJ IladDlen Ccmeril . li'^ .
M }!ri<tflirie :, ., K/L

15 (hm/Si^fcrsl D.'l.

IG Ct>mfir(f(ff»'md.:'- . I .2.

17 (rmeittJ HonpiltiZ J>.2.

18 - Mm'tm' _,,,". 1>. 1 •

19 .I^/w Z^^/A^/' 1'.3.

*i^ Jhj4i4iMfjd Hmso F.3.

21 &urflfmsc MA,

22 (immLunJitDfp. K.4'.

mRffhSdfiej:. E.4.

24 (iprmwi^ OarJciv,.. J5.4.

25 Custom Hpu^s'c F.Jl.

26 Champhfin MnJ^'f K 4-

22 Jfti/I/ I5,»>.

28 Wolfe A Mcfuimenl - - B..T.
7!^ Jmrmrm ff^i/suliilj'^ ..\'^,

32 Frc^cvU,.:. K.IM.

V^Ihpf.^.-.

S3 *SV. LfiuisildeL
36 SlnJurnruJ "

i:.3.
E.:i.

E.4J

I :.3.

E.3

- k

I't !

374

B i

I!. I

U i

II? V

I' '

t 1

t.TWur

to Wil

arouii<J

The H

steami

Lfike i

lake ii

whicli

Iinme!

islamU

men.

piccea

Franc

the si

River

Fond

midw

Kivie:

in lur

Catht

The
abDiin
luivc 1
the lu

twoon

Hit' til

guide
or Al;

luuml

Oi:
of a

acros
The
low '
St. I
ofBl
tran;
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ofS
v., u
nigV
reao
earl

QUEBEC.

Route 56. 375

56. Quebec.

Arrival. If tho trnvollor lias nmch b.iLrira^'o, it is best to tako thf hotel oar-

riaiif \>< till' L']ipor Tiiwii. Tiio cnlichr is imt ailaptcii to fiirryiii;,' in^'.^apv

Hotel

Hotels* 1 lie .>r. i^oiiis
acciiimiiodatiiij^ 4-')0fl quests, at 8.'{-4.0() a day. Tlit^ Stadacoiia House (on !'al-
ace ?St.) i-i less jiretciitioiis and expensive. Ilcndiey's Hotel, opposite tlie Anj^'li-
caii Catlieilral, is (piiet and moderate (for ^'eiitleiiuMi travelliii.L; ni riitrron). In tlu!
Lower Town is Hlanchard's Hotel, and several others, two of .vliieli are Krencli.

CarrlageH in every variety may lie in-ocured at tiu^ staliles, bnttiie nsnal niiMle
(f ridiii',' is by the rnlrrlir. a sin'j;r(lar and usually very shahby-lookin;:: velii- le,
pcrelied o<i two iii^di wheels, with the driver sittinu on a narrow led;,'e in front.
Tliese vehicles are drawn by homely but hanly little horses, and are usually driven
by French Canadians. 1 - 2 jiersons may on^ayi: a c"/('r/i(' to j^o to the Montmo-
riMici Falls, Lorette, or Cap Roii^'e, for^Sli.OO. y/orAC-afri traverse the riverward
streets in the Lower Town.

Reaclliig-roomg. The Y. M. (!. As.soeiation, just off Fabriqiie St., near the
.Itsnit buiidiii;xs, and the ele.^'aiit library of the C^ucIkm; Historical Society (in
.Miirrin ('olii',:.re) are ojk'Ii to the visits of stran^'crs.

Laiif^uUKe. More tiian half of the citizens of Quebec, and nearly all of the

inliabitaiits of the surroiindinj^ villa.^es, speak I'rench as their mothcr-lnn.^uc.

Scry many of them have a kuowled,L;e, more, or less pi-rfcct, of tin' English laii-

;^iia;e, while many of tiie Hritisli citizens speak French also. The laii;.,'ua;,'e in its

written forms (as seen in the niinn'rous French books, ma.i,'azines, and newspapers

published in Qudiec) is correct and intcljiniiile, but the si>eech of tlic; lower classes

[ .uid of the rustics is dilhcult and oftiMi impossible to understand. It is not

I'arisian or even Iloucnnaise French, but a stroii),' jji-ovincial dialect, brou;.,'ht

finiii tilt! rural districts of Xi>niiandy in the ITtli century, and enriched by the

1 addition of liter local idioms. (The siiarp, dissyll ibic, cry with which the, calcrlie-

Idiivers ur;,'e their hor.ses forward, is " Marche-douc.")

The 7'<).-;/-0//(o« is on St. Anne St. Tiie most attra<'tive shops arc on l-'abricpie
land St. John Sts., an<l about the Freu<'h Cat'.iedral.

Rall^vavH. The Grand Trunk Iliilway has its terminal station at Point
jLevi, 'M7 M. from Portland, 42"i M. from Boston, 5S0 M. lYom New Yiirk, and
jl.',()S4 .M. from XewOrleans. There is also a railroad of m ist iirimilivc constiuc-
Ition, with its terminus in the Hinlieiie, which runs slow and iufrciiueiit tniins u)>
Itlie valley of the St. Charles u^v 20-2."j M. To JJoston, see Routes 'Jt and 20, or
IKiiiites lb and ;!7.

Steamers. Ferry-boats run lo Point Levi every ir> minutes ; also thrice daily

o the Isle of Crleans ; ami at var,\in^' intervals to the French river-towns. Sctiii-

Iweekly steamers rnir to the Sa;,'U('nay Iliver ; fare to Cac(<una and return, .f.'! 00 ;

to Tadon.sae, !? 4.00 ; to Ha II.i Bay and return, .* 7.00. Lar^e steami'rs leave,

l^vi'eklv for the (Julf puts; fares to Father Point (with meals and state-rooml,

" t.oo (17."> M.) -r 2d class, .':!2.0); to Gaspe (44:? M.). 1st (lass, •■? 10.00; 2<1

lass, ^4.00; by Perce and Pasju'liiac to Dalhousie, Chatham, and Newcastle,

14.00 ; to Shed'ia. - l.'i.oo ; and to Pictou, 1,021 M. from Quebec, sKJ.oO. Th((

l.ii^'e river-steamer f the lliidiclieu line leave for Montreil ilaily. The .Ml'in line

t)f transatlantic ste.» lei-s tlespatehes oik; ship weeklv during the summer and

tarly fall.

Quebec, "tlic Gibraltar of America," and tlie secon<l city iti tlie

oiuiuion of Canada, is situated at the confluence of the St. Charles and
5t. Lawrence Rivers, 400 M. from tlie (Julf of St. Lawrence, and ISO M.
iDia Montreal. Tt has over (>0, 000 inliabitaiits, and its eliicf l>usiness is
^i the handling and exportation of lumber, of which i^ •'» -7,O(K»,000 worth

sent away annually. There are miles of coves along the St, Lawrence
^lore, arranged for the reception and protection of the vast rafts whicli

>me down from the nortliern forests. A very considerable expoit trade

' '

}

;

'
t

37G Iioutc,56.

QUEIiEf.

ill gmin is also (loiM! litTc, and tliu city derives iiiuch liciu-lit from luiiij,'
till! tcrinimis of tnuisatlaiilic liiic? of slumping, wliicli makes if a ilcjiot of
immigration. Quebec is l)uilt nearly in the form of a triangle, boiiiidid
by the two rivers and flio Plains of Abraham, and is divided into tlit;
Upper and Ijowcr Towns, the former In-ing enwalled and strongly fortified
and standing on a bluff S'/l ft. high, Avhile the latter is l)uilt on the eon-
tracted stri])s betwe(!n the elill's and the rivers. The streets are narrow,
crooked, and often very steep, while the houses are generally built of
cut stone, in a style of severe simplicity.

Jac<|ues Carticr set sail from St. Malo, in ttio spriiiL; of ir»35, with throe will-
arniod vessels, anil steering,' boldly to tlie wi-stwanl, lie euteretl the (iuW of M.
Lawreinc ami ;^ave it its jncscnt name, in ImiKir nf llic saint on wlmsc festi\.:l-
day lie had made tlie discoveiy. He ascended in Stadacoiia, an Indian villaj;e mi
tlie site ofQuehcc (whose jircsent name is derived from "C^uel bee 1" the N(tnii,iii
sailors* sliont on seein;; the lolty lU'eripici , or else from" (^iieheio," an Al^'on-
<|uin woi'd meaning' strait.) .Af'tei- asceiidin;^ to Montreal, (/artier returned to
Qnebe(!and wintered tliei'e, and in KitO a t'oit was erected n<'ar Charleshonr;,'. .The
]ilae(^ was then deserted nntil KidS, when C-'ham]iiain foundeil Quebec, and built a
fort on its itreseiit sit(!. Franciscan monks came to I he new colony in Kil"), and
in KM 1 a ])arty of Jesuits arrived. In l(i"JS ISir David I\irl< (or Kertk) attacked
flu! jdace, and in Ki'J'.i, after a lon^' blockade, tin; Knj^'lish fleet took (Jin'bec. I(
was reslorc'l to Franec; in lO.'iL', and in ir>:'..> (Jovernor Chamj'lain died here and
was buried in the l>ower Town. In lOii") a lar^e ci\r<^i> of l.idies arrived from
France, an<l were all disjxised of in marria^'e within a fortnitrlit. In Hi7i-* the
Count <le Froiitenai'. was sent here as (loNcrnoi', ami in If'.','") he bravidy rejiulsi d
an attack by Sir Win. I'hipiis's fleet (from iJosfon), inflict in;.; severe dama^;e liy a
cannonade i'rom the fort. J3esides many men, the a.ssailants lost their adnnral's
standard and ei;.,'.t vessels. In 1711 Sir Hoveiiden AValker sailed from Boston
aj,'ainst t^uebec, but he lost in on(; day ei,L,dit vcsr.els and SSt men by shijiwreck
on the terrilile clilfs of Cajie Desesjioir. Stron,:; fortifications were built soon
after ; and in 175'.) Gen. Wolfe came u]) the river with S,0oo British soldieis. 'I'lie
Marquis i\r .Montcalm was then Governor, and Ini moved the French army into
fortified lines on Beauport IMains, where he defeateil the British in a san^^'uinary
action. On the ni;^dit of Sept. 1-J, Wolfe's army drifted upstream on the risin;;
tide, and succeiMled in scaling' the steep cliffs beyond the city. They were tired
upon by tli(( French outi)osts ; Imt bel'ore Montcalm could brin;,' his forces acro.ss
th(! St. "(.'harles the British lines were formed upon th<' Plains of Abraham ; and in
the sliort liut^ desperate battle which ensueil both tlie generals were mortally
wounded. Tlie Fn-lish lost (KU men, and the Fremh lost 1,500. The Freneli
army, which was larirelv coniiio.sed of provincial li-vies (witli the re;,'inH;nts of J.;i
Guieiine, Rov.il llo'ussilon. Beam, Li Se.rre, and !>ani,niedoc) t^ave way, and
retreateil acniss tin; St. (^harles, and a few <lays later the city surrendered.

In Aju-il, 17(10, the t'hevalier do Levis (of that Levis family— Hukcs of Veiita-
dour -which claimed tojiossess records of their lineal descent from the jiatriarcli
Levi) led the reorganized French army to St. Foye, near Quebec. Gen. Murray,
hoiiin;,' to surju-ise Levis, advanced (with :{,ono men) from his tine jxisition on the
Plains of Abraham ; but tlie French were vi-ilant, and Murray was det'eati'd and
linrled back witliin the city^Mtes, h ivin^; lost 1,000 men and -JO cannon. Levis now
laiil close sie'.,^e to the city, and battered the walls (and especially St. Jolin's Gate)
from thrcelieavy field-works. Quebec answered with an almost incessant cannon-
aile from l'.V2 ^nus, until Commoilore Swanton cami'. up the river with a fleet from
Fuudand. Tlie British supi'cmacy in Canada was soon afterwards assured by tlic
Treaty of I'aris, and Voltaire con.uratulateil Louis XV. on bein^ rid (if *' 1,5'>|>
lea.nues of fro /en country." In the v.iuter of 1775 -d the Americans liesiej;ed the
city, then commanded liy (!en. Gny Carleton (afterwards made Lord Dondiester).
The ]u-ovisions of the be.sieeers be.t:an to fail, their re^dnients were l)ein,u' depleted
by sickness, and their liKlit giuis made but little impression on the massi>'*
city-walls; so an assatdt was ordered and I'onducted lipfore dawn on Dec. ,S1. 177'.
In the midst of a heavy snow-.storm Arnold advanced through the Lower T<n, ;

QUEBEC.

Jioutc oO. 377

depot nf
bouii<l''l

into tlu:
yfortilH'il

the cnn-
e narrow,

built of

throe will-

r.uif «>i' ^'l•

,se. IVstiviil-
11 villiitic on
Iho Noniiiin
' n\\ Mi^'on-
rctiiriieil t^)
^(lnl•;.^ Tin;
, iUl'l 1">>>' -i
in Un'>, iiii'l
tk) ;\U;icU<mI

(<(1 licri' iuiil

(iiivcil from

In IC.T'J the

vAy rciiulscil

ifir iuhiiiral's
fn.in IJoston
Ibv sliil'wrni-k
V."' built soon
loldicrs. Tlif
h iivniy into
la siuijiiuiniuy
,11 the rising
lev were lirfl
fi.vccs across
lili im : iuul in
eve morlally
Tlu; Fn-ncli
liuHMits of 1-1'
v(> way, and
lorcil.

j-,.s of Vcuta-
lllic patriarch
.(Ml. Murray,
isilion on thf
l.'loatc<l ail' I
Levis now
John's (Jatcl
Isant cannon-
;, a fh'ct from
urcil by the
i.l of "1,-V"»
1.,.s\e-cd the
l)()rchcstci-y
|.iii,u' tU'l'lctcil
the niassivi"
^pc. ;u. 177.^.
, Lower Tov.i'

from his quarters near the Ht. Charles River, and led liis SOO New-F'n^landers and
Virvjiiiians over two or tliree barricades. 'I'lie Montreal r.ank and sfvi'ral other
Massive stone houses were liUcdwitli Uritisli re^Mlars, wtio^'uardcd theaiii>roaches
witli sueli a deadly lire tliat .\rnoUl's nicn were forced to take rcni;,'e in the ad-
joinin;^ houses, while ArnoM himself was iiadly wounded aTid earrieil to tlic rear.
Meanwhile Montgomery was leading' his Xew-YorUers and ("ontincntals N. .'doner
( liamplain St. by the river-side. Tlie intention was for the two attackin,^ columns,
after (iiiviuK the enemy from the Lower Town, to unite Itefore the I'rescott CJate,
and carry it by storm. A strnim liarricade was stret(died acro.s;i Champl.iin St.
from tliecditr to the river ; but when its ;;iiards saw the ^,'rcat masses ot" tlie attack-
in;,' coiumn advancing,' through tlie twili,L,dit, they tlt-d. In all probability .Mont-
j;oniery would have crossed the bariicade, dcHvi-rcd .Xrnold's men by attai'kiiii,'
the enemy in tiie rear, and then, witli l,.'»ui» men lliished with victory, would have
e,sralade(i the i'rescott (Jate and won Qmdx'c and (.'anada, -- but that one of the
fleeing Canadians, impidled by a stran;^'e caprice, turned nuickly back, and fired
tlie cannon which stood load, d on tlie barrica<le. .Mont'.,'oniery ami m.aiiy of his
ollic<'rs and men were stri -ken ilown by the shot, and the column broke up in
]>aiiic,aiid lied. The Hrilish forces were now coni-entr.itccl on Arindd's men, who
were hemmed in by a sortie tVom the I'alacc (iate, and 4"_'() otlici-rs and men W( re.
made iirisoiiers. .V paiiiteil lioanl has been hun;,' liiL;h ni> mi tlie clitf over llie
jilace in Cliam]ilain St. wiiert! .Mont^'oiiiery ti 11. Mont-jumery was an ollicer in
Wolfe's army when Qiieliee was taken fiMm tlic French !•') years bi'tore, and knew
tlie ground. His niist.ike was in lieading the forlorn hope. Quebrc was the
capital of Canada from 17<»0 to 17'.U, and after that it served as a senii-capifal,
until the foundin<,' of Ottawa City. In ISl.j •J.'.i'M) liouses were burnt and tln^
]il:ice was nearly destroyed, but soon revived with the aid of the great lumber-
trade whi(di is .still its specialty.

"There is no city in Am(>rica more famous in the annals of liistory than Quebe(!,
and few on the continent of Luro|i(' more i>icturesqnely situated. Whilst tlin
surrounding scenery reminds one of the unrivalled vicw.s of the Bospliorus, the
airy site of the citadel and town calls to mind lnns]iruek and Ivliniiurgh. Que-
hee may be best ilescrib"d by sui)posing that an ancient Norman fortress of two
centuries ago hail been eiii'ased in amber, transported by magic to Can.ada, and
I'laced on the summit of Cape Diamond."

"Quebec, at least for an .American city, is certainly a very peculiar place. A
military town, contjiining about 'ii^ooo inhabitants ; most compactly and |)erma-
nontly built, — stone its sole material ; environed, as to its most important jiarts,
hy walls and gates, ami defeniled by numerous heavy cannon : . . . . foiind'"l
U]! in a rock, and in its liighest jiarts overlonking a great extent of country ;
3 -too miles iVoiii the ocean, in tlie midst of a gre.it continent, and yet disjd lying
Herts of foreign merchantmen in its line, eajiacinus liay, and shov.'ingall the bustle
of a crowdetl seaport; its streets narrow, populous, and winding up and down
almost mountainous declivities ; situatc<l in the latitU'le of the finest jiarts of
Kurojie, exhi!»iting in its environs the beauty of an Kuropeau capital, and yet in
winter sm irtin.,' with the coM of Siberia ; governed by a jicople of dill'crent
1 iii;,'uage and habits fi-mi the mass of the ]io]inlation, opjiosed in r(di.i;ion, and
yet leaving that iiopulalion without taxes, and in tlie enjoyment of every pri vile, '(>.
livil and religious : such arc the promin-'ut features whiidi stril^e a stranger in
the city of Qiuibec." (Pkok. Sh.liman.) .

" Few cities offer so many striking contrasts as Quebec. A fortress and a
eonimereiai city together, built upon the summit of a rocdv like the lu'st of an
ea,de, while, her vessels are everywhere wrinkling the face of the ocean ; an
American city inhabited by FnMudi colonists, goM-rneil" !vy Fie-d.iinl, and garri-
SDiied by Scotch r.',:;iments ; a city of the Mid'lie .\gt.'S by most of its anident
institutions, wliilc it is sulijcct to all tlie combin dions of mnip'ru c<nistitnfiM!iaI
K'>veriimeiit ; an Kurnpcan cityi>y its civilization and its iiibits of relinemenf, and
.stilleloseby the reiiiiiuits of the Indian triii'i and the barren mts. (d' the .Vortli ;
a city witli about tiie same latitude as I'aris, wdiile succes^^ively combining the
turrid climate of southern regions with the severities of an hyperborean wintei ;
«'i city at the same time Catholic, and Ih'otestant, wliere the labors of our (Fre.ich)
missions are still uninterrujited alongside of the undirt ikings of the Ihbjc Sorifty,
and wdiere the Jesuits, driven out of our own country, find refuu,e under tii«
a?i;i8 of British ruritanisrn." (X. M.a.rmier's " Lettres siir VAincriipir," 18G0.)

R *

378 Route 50. THE DURHAM TERRACE.

" Leaving till! ("itadi'l, wo are onco more in tlit; Kinojioaii Midilk- Ages. flatfH
ami jxistcrns, craiiUy stt'i>s that lead iij) to lofty, pililmt liouses, with sliaiji
Fifiicii roots of hiiniislit'd till, liko those of Lie^e ; jtrocessioiiH of tlieHost ; alLiis
«h'ci<ed Willi Hon, crs ; .stilt lies of tiic Vii';,'iii ; s.iliots ; Mouses ; and the searlei of
the ihitish liiu'Siiiaii, all these are seen in narrow streets and markets that are
Kiaird Willi many a (,'otentin laei', eajt, anil all within 40 miles of the down-ea.st,

Yankee .State of Maine. It is not tar from New Knglaiid to Old Fraiiee

'i'heie has heeii no dyin;,' out of the! ra<"e amon^r the French Canadians. They
immber twenty times the tlioiisamls that they did 100 years a;,'o. The Amerienii
.soil li.is left their jihysical tyjie, religion, lam;!iai,'e, and laws ai>soliitely uiitoiiehed.
'I'hey hi'i'd top'ther in their raniblin;,' vill,!;.ies, d.ancc to tin- fiddle after mass on
Snndays, — asgaylyas onee did their Norman sires, and keep ii[i theyfc»r-(/(-//;.s
und the memory of Alontealni. More Freiicli than tlie Freiieh are the Lower
Canada hahHans. The pulse-beat of the continent finds no echo here." (fSiu
Chaules Dilki;.)

The Durham Terrace is on the riverward edge of tlie Upper Town, ami
stands on llie bnttre.sses and platform formerly oeeni)ied by the Chateau
of St. Louis, which wa.s built by Cliam])hun in 1(520. The old chateau
was a massive stone structure, 200 ft. long, used for a fortress, prison, and
governor's palace, and it stood mitil 1834, when it was ruined by lire.
The terraee is 200 ft. above the river, and commands a * view of surpass
ing beauty. Immediately below are the shiuons streets o." the Lower
Town, witli its wharves {irojecting uito the stream. On one side are tin-
lofty, fortified bluffs of Point Levi, and on the other the St. Charles River
wimls away up it.s peaceful valley. The white houses of Beauport stretch
oft" to the vicinity of the Montmorenci Falls, wliile beyond are seen the
farms of L' Ange Gardien, extending towards the heights of St. Fereol. Ves-
sels of all classes and sizes are anchored in the broad basui and the river,
and the lich and verdant Isle of Orleans is in mid-stream below. Beyond
and over all are the bold peaks of the Laurentiau Range, with Cap Toiii-
mente towering over the river far in the distance. The Terrace is tlu;
favorite promenade of the citizens, and presents a pleasant scene in the
late afternoon or on iilea.sant Sundays. At the upper end of the Terrai'c^
is a plain stone structure called tiie Old Chateau, which was built about
1780 for the British governors.

"There is not in tlie world a nobler outlook than that from the terraee at Que-
bec. Yon stand upon a rock overhanyiiij,' city and river, and look down upon tho
tciiyrd-shii)s' masts. Acre n])on acre of t iniber comes Hoatini,' down the stream
above the city, the Canadian boat-sonys ju.-^t reaching you ujioii the heights ; and
beneath you are tiects of great sliii)s, Fnglish, German, French, and Dutch, em-
barking the timber from tlie floating docks. The Stars and Stripes are uowhoie
to be seen." (Siu Ciiakle.s Dilke.)

The Place (VArmrs is a pretty little i>ark between the Terrace and the
Anglican Cathedral, a large, i)lain building of stone, which has a superli
communion-set (presented by George III.), and within which is the tonih
of Charles, Duke of Richmond, Lennox, and Dauliigny, who died while
Governor-General of Canada (1819). The monument of Jacob Mountain.
D. D., first Anglican Bisho]), is in the chaiucl. Dr. Mountain was in tin
presence of King George, when he expressed a doubt as to whom he .'^liouli

i^. (iatcs
th shall"
»t ; uKai-*
^•iii-lci "1'
s that MI''
l()wn-fa>t,

,nce

ns. They
America. 1

[utolH'hfil.

r mass tm
jii-ur-ilr-h;^
lh»^ Lower
ere." («i'^

rowii, aii<l
e Chateau
id chateau
prison, au'l
ed by lii-i'.
of sun)ass
the Lower
ide are th«'
uirles Rivei'
port stretch
.re seen the
i'ereoh Ves-
id the river,
w. Beyond
1 Cap Tour-
rrace is th(;
cene i» thi'
the Terrufc
built about

Ivrace at Qvif-
hwn upon the
V the stream
Iheigtits ; aiul
]l Dutch, em-
arc noNvhi.ri'

Lee and the

lias a supevh

lis the tonih

died w'hil^

I) Mountain.

i was in th'

Im he shoul I

AROUND THE RAMTAIITS. Route 50. 379

aiiltoint as bishop of tlu* new See of Quebec. Said the doctor, " Tf yf)nr
Majesty had faith, there woulil be no diniculty." " How so C sjiid th(^
king. Mountain answered, "If you hail faith, you would say to this
Mountain, Be thou removed into that See, and it would be done." It
was. The Cathedral, rectory, and Chapel of All Saints, stand on rrrotnul
formerly occupied by the Franciscan (Recollet) monks, an.l on the .same
tract the Court Ilnu.'^r is built, frontinj? on St. Louis St. Beyond the
Court House is the Masonic Hall, opposite which are tin; ohj buildings of
the Commissariat and Crown Lands Departments, and the St. Louis
Hotel.

Around the Ramparts.

The Street des Carrieres runs S. from the Place d'Annes to the Goveru-
or's Garden, a plea.sant summer-evening re.sort, with a monument 65 ft.
higli, erected in 1827 to the memory of Wolfe and Montcalm, and bearing
the elegant and classic inscription :

MouTKM. Virtus. Communkm.

FaMAM. HlSTOIUA.

monumkntcm. to-stkuitas.
Dkdit.

In the lower garden is a battery whicli commands the harbor. Des
Carrieres St. leads to the inner ijlacis of the Citadel, and by turning to
the r. on St. Denis St., its northern outworks and approaches may be
.seen. Passing a cluster of barracks on the r., and the ChalnuTs (Pres.)
Churcli on the 1., and turning to the 1. on St. Louis St., the St. Louis
Gate is soon reached. A road turning to the 1. just inside the Gate leads
througli deep, entrenched passages commanded by jiowerfnl batteries, and
by the Chain Gate to the Dalhousie Gate of The CitadeL Tliis immense
fortilication covers 40 acres of ground, and is situated on the summit of
Cape Diamond (so called from the glittering crystals found in the vicinity),
wliicli is said to be " the coldest place in the British Einjtire." Since tlie
evacuation of Canada by the Imperial troops, the Citadel has been gar-
risoned by provincial volunteers, and visitors are usually ])ernutted to
pass around the walls under the escort of a soldier. The • view from the
most nortlierly bastion (which contains an immense Armstrong gun) snr-
jtasses that from the Durliam Terrace, and is one of the most magniticeiit
in the world. The K-tphinndp extends to the r. from the St. Louis Gate,
and the tourist is recommended to walk fvlong the ramparts to St. John's
Gate, viewing the deej) fosse, the massive outworks, and the ancient
ordnance at the embrasures. On the r. are theStadacona Club House, the
< 'ongregational (Catliojie) Church, ami the Nation;d School; while the
suburban ward of Montcalm is on tlie 1. St. John's Gate is a mo(ltiii
structure, and is both strong and graceful. While rallying his soldiers

t •■

111

380 /ioiUr 56.

QUEBEC.

jiiht oiitside of this Giitit, tlie Manjuis de Montcalm was mortally woiimlfil
(in \liA)), and f'ol, Urown (ot Mass.) atiacketl tlie Gate while Arnold and
Montgomery were fighting in the Lower Town. The ramjiarts must he
left here, and D'Autenil and St. Ileh'ne Sts. follow their course by the
Artillery Barracks (built by the French in IToO) to the Falaco Gate,
flose to which is tin- ll^^lrl hint (faurnif. This institution was fonntlcd
by the Dnchcssc; d'Aguillon (niece of Cardinal Kicliclicu) in WM). In !•);'> t
one of the present buildings was erected, and most of it was built during
the 17th century, while Talon, Baron des Islets, complete*! it in 17G2.
There are 30- 40 nuns of the order of tho noi)italicres, and the hospital
is o])en freely to the sick ami infirm jmor of whatever sect, with atteinl-
ance by the l)est doctors of the city. Among the ]iictun's here are. Virgin
and Child, hy Coi/pd ; Nativity, Stffh ; St. Wrxmo, hy LeSiicur, "the
Raphael of France." From Palace Gate to Ilojie Gate (000 ft.) the ram-
parts may be followed, with fine views over the two rivers, the Isle of
Orleans, and the Ijaurentian Mts. The walls are built on a lofty cliff, and
arc very thin, but have lines of loo]»holes and are guarded by bastions.
Hope Gate was built in 17S1, and has well-fortificcl ai»i)r()aclies. The
rami>arts may be followed from this point to the Parliament House, pass-
ing the stately Laval Vniversity and the (Irand Jiattery, where 22 32-
poumlers command the river, and wlicnce a pleasing view may be ol»-
tained. The Parliament House is on the site of Clianqdain's fort and
the ancient Ej>isco])al i)alace, and is an extensive but i>Iain building, whose
glory has dejiarted since the decapitalization of Quebec. A short distance
beyond is tlie Prescott Gate, the. main avenue of communication between
the Upper and Lower Towns, and Durham Terrace is just S. of the Gate.
The Market Square is nearly in the centre of the Upper Town, and
presents a curious and interesting appearance on market-mornings, wlien
the French ]>easantry bring in their farm products. On the E. is tlie
Roman Cathedral of the Jmmacvlate Coneefdion, which was built in 16GG,
destroyed by cannonading froni Wolfe's batteries in 17r)9, and rebuilt soon
after. Its exterior is (piaint, irregular, and homely, but tlie interior is
more pleasing, and accommodates 4,000 persons. The High Altar is well
adorned, and the choir of boys from the Seminary is much esteemed.
The most notable pictures are, * * The Crucilixion (" the Christ of the
Cathedral," the finest painting in Canada), by Van Dyck (on the first pillar
1. of th^ altar) ; the Ecstasy of St. Paul, Carlo Marat ti ; the Annunci-
ation, Restout ; the Baptism of Christ, Ilalli' ; the Pentecost, Vir/iwn ;
Miracles of Ste. Anne, Plainojiflon ; Angels Waiting on Christ, Restout
(in the choir) ; the Nativity, copy from Au)ii//<(1'' Caracei ; Holy Family,
Blanchard. The remains of Champlain, the heroic exjtlorer and founder
and first Governor of Quebec, are in the Cathedral. Alougsiile of the
Cathedral are the ancient, rambling, and cxtensi\'c buildings of the Semi-

QUKP.KC.

nn„ter,(]. 381

uult'vl
(I Jltlll
»sL Ix',
^y \\w
Gate,

11 loni

during

1702.

ospitul

attt'iiil-

Virgin
,-, "the
u- r.'uu-

Islc of
•lilT, aii'l
)Ustions.

;s. The
se, p;iss-
e 22 r.2-
y be oli-
fovt and
ig, whose
, distance
Lc'twoen
he Gate,
iiwp, and
igs, when
E. is the
|tinl66G,
Ituilt soon
iteviov is
lav is ^veU
■stecnied.
,st of the
|ivst pillar
Annunci-
Vignon ;
, Rcstoid
Family,
founder
llo of tlu'
Ihe Semi-

nary, which was founded in 1(503 by F'ran^-ois de Montniorenci LnvJ.
IJishop of Quebec from U)!)H to lOMM. This instittition is divided into Le
(,'riiud Siinimiiri'. mid Lr /'rtit Smiinnir*' ; tlie first l)ein;» a aeiiool of
theology, and tlie second being devoteil to litevatun? and seifiKx; (for boys).
There are about 400 students, who uiuy be distinguishetl in the streets by
llieir uniform.

'I'lif! Seinlnnry Cliapel has some line paintings (lieKimiinj; at the r. of the

ciitraiiie): Tlic ^Savil)lll• and tlie Samaritan \Vi>man, Ld Unnirr ; T\w Vir;,'in At-
tiiKle'l tiy An;;els, Dim ; 'Ilic, Crucilixioii. Moiirf ; Tlie llcrinits of tlii' TlKibaitl,
dit'llot; The Virtimi of St. Jerome, h'lliiUin; *riie Ascciisimi, l'ltilUi>c ilv Chum-
j'li'jnr ; Tlie Uiiiial of (,'liri.st, llutiii; (ovi-r tlie altar) Tlie Flij,'lit into f'^jivpt,
I'tnton; abovt^ wiiidi is a jiietnreof aii;,'els, Lrbrun; The Trance of Ht. Anthony,
I'lirrorel d'Ai'itjuon ; The iJay of I'enteoost, P. dc Cluimiiaijnc ; St. I'etcr Freed from
I'risoii, I)t; 1(1 Fosse: The Uaptisiii of Christ, Itidiv ; St. .Icroiiie Writ in;;, .A. /;.
ClitiiniHi'inf ; Adoration of the Maj,'i, Il<niii!<it. "The Chapel on the r. of the chief
ail.ir contains the relics of St. Clement ; that on the 1. the relics of St. Moilestus."

Adjoining the Seminiuy is its goodly child, tin; Laval University,
v.liose main building is of cut stone, 30j ft. loni,' and 5 st(jries high, and
cost .'5240,000. The museum of Huron antifputie.s, the collection of Ca-
nadian birds, the lilirary of nearly 50,000 volumes, the fine scientific in-
struments, the great hall of convocation, and the far-viewuig, enrailed
jiromenade on the roof are all wortliy of a visit. The extensive dormi-
tories and the medical college occupy substantial stone buildings in the
vicinity.

On the W. side of the Market Square is the great pile of buildings
which were partlj' erected in 1640, for the Jesuits' College. The college
was suspended in 1709 by Gen. Murray, who ([uartered liis troops liere,
anil in 1809 the property reverted to the Crown, on the death of the last
of the Jesuit Fathers. The buildings have since been used for barracks,
when u.sed at all. Passing St. Anne's Market and the Anglican Cathedral,
Garden St. cuns S. to the Ursuline Convent, which was founded by
Madame de la Peltrie in 1(339. Part of the present buildings were built
in 1GS6, and with the gardens and offices they cover 7 acres. There are
40 nuns, who are devoted to teaching girls, and also to working in em-
broidery, painting, &c. Tlie parlor and chapel are open to visitors, aiul
in the latter are .some good paintings : * Mater Dolorosa, Van Dyck ; The
Saviour, t'hampafjne ; Christ in Simon's House, Champagne; and a
small picture by Jicstout. Within a grave made by a shell which burst
in this chapel, during Wolfe's bombardment, is buried ''the High and
Mighty Lord, Louis Joseph, Manpiis of Montcalm," and over his remains
is the in.scription, " Honneur a Montcalm ! Le <lestin en lui derobant la
victoire I'a reconii)ense par line mort glorieuse ! " Morrin College (on St.
Anne St.) is a neat stone building, in one of whose halls is the extensiva
and valuable liljrary of the Quebec Historical Society (open to the pub-
lic). There are several other churches and public buildings among the

I I

382 nouie r,n.

QUEBEC.

iiiirrow str<!C'ts of tlie TJppnr Town. St. Pofri<//.<t, on St. Helen St., lias
ri nt!iit lojiic inlfrior, and Hm- clnncli, niaiisc, a;ul .scIkk)! of St. vVndn-w
(I'lvshytoriun) occupy; stonc! hnildiiif^'s on St. Anne St. At i\w. conifi of
St. John and Palace Sts. (se<!ond story) is a statue of Wolfe, wldrli is
nt'uily a century old, and lioarH such a relation to Quebec as does the
JMaiinikin t<> Brussels. It was once stolen liy nij^lit liy some r(»ysteriiif^
nav'id ()llic(!rs, an<l carried oil' to BarluKloes, wlience, it was returned many
months after, enclosed in a «'ollin. In the front of the I' »st-OIIice, on
Buade St., is a figure of a dog, carved in tlie stone and gilded, uncler which
is the inscription : —

"Jc siili iin chlon qui roii^p I'os ;
Kii Ic nuifji'iiiit iu proud mon rcpon.
I'll ttMnpH viciiiira (}ni ii'cHt puK vlmiu

Wliilc I (.'iiiiw I tiikf my repoic.
The tiiii'' will ciiiiii'. thiMiKli ii"t vet,
Wlicn I will biti' iiim whu now bltcit mc")

Quf ju inurilraiH ([ui in aum iiioiilu."

This lampoon was aimed at the Intendant Bigot liy M. IMiilibert, who hud
sufh'rccl wrong from him ; but soon after the caned stone had been put
into the front of Phililnirt's house, that gentleman was assassinated hv an
ollicer of the garrison. The murderer exchanged into the East Indian
aiiny, but was pursued by ^'hilibert's brother, and after a severe conflict
was kilh I at Pondiclierry. Near the I' 'st-Ollice is the large and elegant
buihling of the JUshojt's Palace, ^i mtaiu St. descends through the
Prescott Gate to the Lower Town, \ith the steej), crowded, and pictu-
rcsciue Chanijdaiii 8lcj)s on the r., near whose foot the remains of Cham-
plain were recently found, in the vault of an ancient chapel.

-The Montcalm and St. John Wards extend W. from the ( ity walls to
the line of the Martello Towers. In the latter ward is the large Church
of St. John (( 'atholic), and also the (Iray Nunnery (70 sisters), with a
lofty and elegant chapel. Above the Nunnery and fronting on the glacis
is the Convent of the Christian Brothers. The steep street called Cute
d'Abraham descends thence to the Jacipies Cartiir Waiil of the Lower
Town, beyond which, on the banks of the St. < harles, is the Marine
Hospital, a large and imposing modern buihling in Ionic architecture
(with G acres of grounds) ; and the General Hospital, an extensive pile
of buildings, founded by Dc Vallier, second bishop of Quebec (in 1G93),
and conducted by 40 --50 nuns of St. Augustine. The i hurches of St.
Sinrenr{m the Banlicu) and St. Jioch are large structures, with many
inferior pictures, and the /Uack Niinacry in near the latter. St. Koch's
Ward is mostly devoted to manufactories and to shijibuilding (on the St.
Charles shore). St. Paul St. runs E. between the fortified cliti's and the
river, to St. Peter St., which turns S., and near which are the chief banks,
wholesale houses, and harbor oflices. At the neighboring wharvts are the
shi])s and ocean-steamers, with many small and dirty steamboats whicli
])ly to the neighboring river-towns. The Custom IJuuse (near Pointe a
Garcy) and the Chanqilain Market are in this quarter, and are Hue stone

CAP iioroR

Rout,' 50. 383

nils to
!huiTli
with a
(jlacin
I Cute
Lower
arine
et'ture
ve yiile
lG9a),
of St.
mauy
llocli's
the St.
ml tlh'
banks,
lare tlio
whiiU
iutc ;i
stout;

luiilliiigs. Tilt! Cliurcli of Xntif Dainc <1ps Vlntoivps Is a plain oM slnic
turc near tli« markot, wliich <l;it«*s fnmi lKif(»rp 1«11M). It was ho nanuxi,
a:i'l was tlfcoratt'd with trn|iliit's, in trnvlitiuld for tlu* defeat of Sir Win.
riiipiis' attack in ItV.Ki, iinl the teniliie disaster to Admiral Walk ts i-x-
|ic(Iition at Cape Pesespoir. 'i'lie Qm en's Kuel Yard is helnw the I'alaeo
(Jatc, and ocenjiies the site of un immense range of bnildiiif^'s orocted by
]{ip»t, 13th and last Tioyal (French) Tntendant. Here lie lived in all tin*
fiuiial s))lendor of the old Fnine.h nnhlrsac, on the revenues which lie eX'
tortt'd from the oiipresstd province. In Ml^) tin* palace was captured by
Arnold's Virj^'inia ritlemeii, who so >rre,atly annoyed the pirrison that the
buildings were set on lire and consnincd by slndls from the batteries of
the Upper Town. Under the ple;i of "municipal improvements," it is
stated that considerable jtortions of the old city walls are now (1873)
being removed.

Environs of Quebec.

Point Levi is across the river from Quebec, and is a rapidly growing
place, Avhere the Grand Trunk llailway terminates. Upon the steep
bluffs are two neat <'hurches, and a short distance to the E. is a series of
powerful earth\vf>rks, intemled to prevent the establishment of hostile
batteries within shelling distance of (Quebec. IS M. from i'oint Ijevi aro
tlic * Fidh of the t'haudifir, where that river dash;-s, in a sheet tioO ft. wide,
down a preci[iie.e 150 ft. high. The Chandicre descends from Lake Me-
gantic, near the Maine frontier, passing through the Canadian gold-tieids.
Arnold's hungry an<l heroic anny follow.ecl the course of this river from
its source to its mouth. (See page ;n8).

Cap Rouge is 9 M. from Quebec, and maybe reached by the (Jrando
Alice, i»assing out of the St. Louis Gate. The roail leads by the Canada
Military Asylum, St. Bridget's Asylum, and the jail, and near the toll-
gate (on the 1.) is seen a monument inscribed, "Here die<l Wolfe, Vic-
torious." The .scene of the IJattle of the Plains is on either hand, and the
Plains of Abraham stretch away to the S, There are four Martello Towers
on the neighboring fields, each built in a circular form and of heavy
masonry, while the massive stone jail, being j»rovide<l with long lines of
loopholes, is an efhcient outwork. About 2 M. out, the Mount Ifernion
Cemetery is passed, with the elegant Chai^el of St. Michael, and the
whole distance between the city and Cap liouge is linid witli fine old
villas of the noblesse ami gentry of Lower Canada. Redclyfle Mansion is
on the cape, near where Roberval wintered in 1*541, and in the same
vicinity batteries were erected by Montcalm and Murray. In returning
to the city, it is best to turn to the 1. at St. Albans, and gain the Ste. Foy
roa<l. The broad and smiling valley of the St. Charles is overlooked from
this road, and Lorette may be seen in the distance. As the citv is nearly

384 I!<>uU'5(i. FALLS OF MONTM()UK*('L

U.'

I •

aiiproaclicti, on tin- 1. is sfi'ii ii niommitntal (•ohiiiin siniiioniitfd ]:y :i stutuo
of l!fll(»iia (j»ri'Mt'iiti'(l )iy Piiiit •.• iNiipoltoiO, wliii'li marks tin' sito ai' the
liL-rcc'st part <tf th<' StToml IJalllc of the I'laiiis, when Do Levis tlcfcatcl
Murray (Ur*!)). The inoiunnont was dtMlicNitrd with great j)oiiip in 1851,
and stands over tlic gravi' ol' many Imndrods wlio r< II in tlio tiglit. I'ass-
inf^ now the Iiandsotnc i''iiday Asylum and several villus, tlio sulmrl) of
St. .lolin i'i cntereil.

Indian Lorette is 1) I\L from Que1)ec, by t'lo liittle Ilivor Road. It is
an uncieut village of the IlnronH (" Catholics and uUies of France "), and
the present inhaMtants are a (juitt and reli;.'ious jieople in whom tin;
Indian Mood i)redominales, thou;_di it is never unmixed. The men hunt
and fish, tlie women make l»ea<l-work and moecasins, and the hoys earn
j>enni(!s by dexterous arelieiy. The Lnrette Falls, near the village, are
very i)retty, and a few miles farther inland are tlui [jakes of Beaupoi-t
and St. Charles. The latter is 4 M. long, and is famed for its red trout
and for its remarkable eehocs.

t'harlcHlxun'ii, 1 M. from Quebec, is an ancient village, with two
Catholic chuii'hes, situated on a jileasant and i»ietures(iue road. In the
vicinity is the llcrinilaiji', or Chateau liigot, a gray and romantic ruin at
the foot of Mt. des Ormcs, where 13igot, the last intendant of Canada,
kept and visited a lovely Algontpiin girl, until his wife discovered the
secret, and soon thereafter the Indian maiden was cruelly liuirdcred.

The * * Falls of Montmorenci are about H M. IVom the ('ity, by a road
which crosses the St. ( 'liarles liiver, jiasses several tine ohl mansions, and
traverses the long, straggling village of Bcaujtort, with its stately church
and roadside cresses.' The falls are 250 ft. Iiigh and 50 ft. wide, — a solid
and comi)act mass of water incessantly plunging over a ju'ecipice of black
vock, with clouds of mist and a deafening roar. The Montmorenci flows
into the St. Lawrence a short distance below. Near the falls is Ilaldi-
mand House, formerly (XH'upied by the Duke of Kent, Queen \'ictoria's
father; and on the dills by the river are seen the towers of a suspension
bridge which fell soon after its erection, hurling three persons into the
fatal abyss below. A small fee is charged for entering the fields to view
the falls, and the tourist must be cr.reful, not only to visit the pavilion
near the falls (which commands also a charming view of Quebec), but to
insist on being conducted to a position low down on the shore, from which
the stupendous plunge of the Montmorenci may best be seen. About 1^
M. above the falls are the Natural 8t.eps, where the river has cut the
ledges into a similitude to steps, meanwhile contracting its channel. The
views on the road back to Quebec are very beautiful. At the foot of
these falls an immense ice-cone (sometimes 200 ft. high) is formed every
winter, and here the favorite sport of tobogginning is carried on.

Ste. Anne is 2-4 M. below Quebec (tri-weckly steamers), and has a small

-. ;!i

■ . .• s

THE SAGUKNaY UIVEK.

Hiutte 60. ot<5

Uituc
.(• the

f.-!ltl'<l

1854,

PtlHH-

ul> of

U in
"), tuitl
m\ the
n Innit
ivs earn
;ipo, are
eaupoi't
(ii\ trout

itU two
In the
; ruin at
Canada,
eretl tho
ireil.

)y a road
oiiH, and
|y cliurcli
a solid
of V)lack
iiei flows
s Ilaldi-
,'ictona's
siiension
into tiie
to view
pavilion
I), but to
|m which
.bout li
cut the
•\. The
foot of
sd every

iun. 2-3 M. from Ihti inn are tlie beautiful luffs of Sfc. Anne, below
wiiichthe river 1)1 the same iiunie ditshes down tlirou^h a dark and sombre
ravine. The /''(//v ';/' .S/. /'V-rtc/, the Seven Fulls, an<l other remarkahh)
ul)iect.s, an' in thih \fciuity, wliile jiiht \V. of tiie village is Mt. Ste. Anne,
;i liieturestiue isuniiiiit J,»i»7 ft. hii^'h. Lake St. .loachin is a few miles
di.stant, and abounds in trout, while tJ-8 M. below is the bold mountain-
iiromontory called Cup Ttntrmrnle. Wltliin the village is tho beautiful
little pilgrimage-ehureh of Ste. Anne, when- it is said that many surpris-
ing ndraeles have been wrought by relies of La Bonne Ste. ,\nne (whieh
lire kept in a erystal globe). Crulehis and other helpers of the sick and
deformed are hung upon the walls of the saeristy, their owners having
been made whole, wlnle numerous rud(! votive pictures adorn the ehapels.
rhdtenu liuJier is S. of Ste, Anm», and has the ruins of a Kraneisean
monastery on a bold i)oint over the river. This monastery was l)uilt in
1(!1)5, and was so stunlily defended against (Jen. VVolft; (t^vt-n the monks
fought) that he was obliged to destroy it by eamionading. From the
parish-ehureh, near the ruins, beautiful views are gained of L'Ange
Gardien, (;ai>e Diamond, and the Isl<'. of Orfcansy "the Garden of Lower
Canada." This isle is '20 M. long and 5-G M. wide, and is famed for its
ricli soil. Cartier, in 15'?'), named it the Isle of Uaechua, and in 1G7<5 it
Avas made into the Earldom of St. Laurent.

The Saguenay River (lla lla I5ay) is 132 M. from Quebee, and
steamers run send-we(;kly. Below the St. Marguerite Islands (of whieh
(Joose and Crane are the largest), the St. Lawrence attain.s aiid keeps a
width of about 20 M. with 18 ft. tides, and with seals, porpoises, and
whales playing in the clear salt water. The Isle of Orleans is passed on
tlie N., and tlie (piarantine stations on (jrrossr. Isle are seen, near the vast
j)romontory of Cap Tourniente. The Isfe aux Voudrcs has a populatittn
more purely Norman in its blood and habits than any other in Canada.
Ste. Anne, on tho S. E. shore, has a Catliolic College (French), and
J/a/iate (Murray Bay), 80 M. from Quebec, is a favorite summer-resort
lor the better classes of the French Canadians. The .steamer cros.ses to
Riviere du Loup, the terminus of tlie Graml Trunk Railway on the K. ;
6 M. from whieh is Cacouna (St. Lawrence Mall, kv,.), the Newport of
Canada, where thousands of visitors enjoy .sea-bathing during .the heat.s
of summer. Tri- weekly stages run from Riviere du Loup to the Grand
Fulls of the St. John River, -whence stages connect with route 49 (see
page 323). The steamer now crosses the wide river to Tadousac (lai'go
sunimer-hotel), a post of the Hudson's Bay Conij>any at the mouth of tho
Saguenay River. Tadousac was early fortified by tlie French; it was the
residence of Pere Marquette, who explored the Mississipjii Valley; and it
now has a venerable Catholic church, which is said to be more than 2.^
lenturies old. The vast cafion through which the Saguenay rolls its black
17 Y

.v^

38G Route 5G.

THE SAGUENAY KIVER

■

'.viiters is now entered, and lufty peaks and palisades tower on either side.
After pa«L;iiig La iioule and the Troliles, M M. a1 une Taduusae, tiie
majestic * Cape Trinity and Cape Etarnity ri.^e on t!'.e S. to the height
of 2,(H)0 fi. cacli, guarding Hie t-ntraiico to Trinity 'Bay. The water at
the l)a.se of these peaks is over GUO lathonis deep.

" SiuMoiily the boat r iiided tlio corner of tin- tliico steps, each 500 ft. liiKli, in
whuli CiiiK' Hternity cliinhs from tlie river, and erejit in uudtr tiie naked Hide'ol
tlieawrnl cliir. ll is slieer lock. sprinKinj; IVoni the hlack water, and stret.clnn>,'
upward with a weary, ellort hke aspect, in Unv^ impulses ofstonct marked liy (h^ej*
seams trom space to siiaee, tdl, l.r.uii tt. in air, its vast inow l.eet.h;s forward, and

frowns witiia Mtterinh .rm^'eof pines The roek rullyjustitics its attributive

l;eii,'ht to tiie eye, whiel> follows tiie upward rush of the lidglity aeelivity, steep
alter steej), tdl it wins tlie (doud-eapt summit, \v\wu the measureless uiass'seems
to swint; and sway overhead, and the nerves tremble with the same terror that
besets lum wiio Uxdis downward from the verge of a lofty pre( ipice. It is wholly
grim an<l stern ; no tou<di id" beauty n-lieves tiie austere niiOesty of that presence.
At the foot of Cape Eternity the water is of unknown depth, and it spreads, a
black expanse, in the rounding h(dlow of .shores of unimagiuaitle wildness and
desolation, and issues agcin in its river's course arouuvl the base of Cape Trinity.
.This is yet loftier than the sister ( litf, but it slopes gently liackward from the
stream, and from foot to crest it is heavily ( lothcfd with a forest of pines. The
woods that hitherto have shagge<l the hills with a stunted and meagre growth,
showing long .stretclies .scarred by lire, now assume a stattdy size, ami as.sv'mblo
themscdves compactly upon the side of the mountain, setting' their serried stems
one rank above anothei', till the summit is crowiied with the ma.s« of their dark
green idinnes, <h'use and soft and beautitul ; .so that tiie sjiiiit, perturbed by the
sjiei ta( le of the otht r (litf, is ealiiicd and assuaged l>ytl.e serene grandeur of this."
— From W. U. IIowells's A Vlutncc Acmaintance.

Statue Point aTid Le.s Tableaux are ne.xt pas.sed, and then Ila If a liai/
is reached, witli its two small villages, 10-12 M. above which is
Chuoutimi, at the head of ship navigation. 8t) M. farther N., in tin;
l)Oson! of a vast and desolate wilderness, is the reservoir of the Sagnenay,
the gK-at Lake of St. John.

From Quebec to Springfield, Hartford, New TLiven, and New York,
see Route 24. From Quebec to T-Soston, by Lake Memphrcnrngog, White
River Junction, and Concord, see Routes 24 and 29 ; to Boston, by way of
Gorham, Portland, and the sea-shore, see Routes 40 and 37; or byway of
Gorham, Portland, and La.vrence, see Routes 40 and 38.

t. :C,

tlier silk'.

VISUC, till'

he height
water at

ft. liinh, in
veil Bide ol'

stretching
;e I liy deej*
rward, and
attriliutive
ivity, stceit
mass seems

terror tliat
It is wholly
it i)resenee.
I spreads, ii
ildiiess and
ijie Trinity,
(l from the
pines. Tin;
i^re growth,
id ash^'inlili)
;rried stems
f their dark
rbed by the
eiirof this."

ht Ha Boy
which is
N., in the
Saguenay,

Tew York,

:og, Whito

.)y way oi

by way of

INDEX.

Ahington. Mass. ,'il.
Acton, Mnss. VM.
Ailiims. Mt. '230.
Ad.Iison, Vt. 1S4.
Ailirondaeks, Iloutcs to
the Wol, ;Ui4, 36.5, 367
Agamentieus, Mt 207.
Alhiiiiy Hasins. Mo. 288.
Ail.iuiy. X. Y. :54s, 142.
Alliiirgh Sprin;;s, V.. 2''7.
.Mtred, Me. 21:5
Alton IJaV- N. II. 218, 282,
Ai-ih.ist. Stass. 100, 102.
Amherst. N. H. 102.
Ainmonoosue Falls -I'S'i,
.\ii(iover. Mass. 27().
Aniiaiidale, X. Y. .'U7.
.\iiiiisf|iiain, Mass. 247.
An.son, Me. 2'.<4.
Aiisonia, (Jonn. 111.
Antlioiiy's Xose :i44, 300,
Arlington, Vt. 185.
Arrowsie, Me. 21(7.
Artlial.aska, Can. 200.
Alt lair's Seat. Mass. 178.
Artists' Falls. N. H. 22.').
Arti.sts' Ledge. X. H. 22:..
As(istne.\, Mt. 100.
A.sldinrnhani, Mass. 177.
Asliford, Ci'iiii. lis.
A.-^liland. X. H. 210.
Ashlev Falls, Mass. 115.
.\sso\>amsett Tond M.
Alliens, X. Y. 348.
Vitlehorongh. Mass. 62.
AMliiiri), Me. 308.
Augusta, Me. 311,
All Sahle Chasm .307.
Avnn,.Conn. 100.
Aver June., Mass. 170.
Aylnier Lake, Can. 2l»0.

liald Head Cliff, Me. 207.
liald Mt., N. H. 239.
Baldwin, Me. 285.
Lallardvale, Mass. 270.
Jiallston Spa, N. Y. 350.
Jiangor, Me. 315. 318.
l>.intani Lake, Conn. 112.

Rir Ttarhor, Mo. 30.3, 304.

Marnet, Vt. 100.

Uarton, Vt. 171.

Bash Bish Falls 122, 153,

liasin, tl '.; 240.

Math, Me. 207.

Bath, X. II. 211.

Bay, Belfast 317-^

!;..st"i. 20.

Biirliii;;ton .%;>•

Uiizzard's 58, 92.

Caseo 274.

Frenchman's .304.

Fiindy 321.

Ha Ha3SO.

Missisquoi 207.

Xiirragansett 05.»

Xarragiiagiis 3ii7.

New York 48, 329.

rassaiiia(p;'Hldy 32*2.

i'eiioh,sc,ot 3'J2, 310,

.St. All'M-.s 205.
Bay View, Mass. 247.
Bearcan.p, N. H. 220,
Be(;kct, Mass. 143.
Beeeher's Falls, N. H, 232.
Beech Mt., Me. 300.
Belii.ertown, Mass. 100.
Belfast. Mc. 317-
Belgrade, Me. 309.
Bellows Falls, Vt. 104, 181.
Beheil Mt., Can. 208.
Bennington, Vt. 180
Berkshire Hills 142.
Berkshire Soda »Si>rings,

Mass. 152.
Berlin, Coun. 140.
Berlin Falls, X. H. 229.
Bernardston, Mass. 104.
Berry I'oikI, Mass. 145.
Bethel, Me. 288.
Bethel, Vt. 200.
Betldeheni, X. II. 234.
'JeN->vlv, Mass. 245, 250.
liiiidef'ord. .Me. 200, 283.
Billerica, Mass. 189.
Billingtoii Sea 53.
Biniiinghani, Conn. 111.
Black River Falls 105, 181

niack Rock, Conn. 85.
Blackstone, Mass. 93.
Bla.k well's Id., N. Y. 47.
Block Id., U. I. 71.
Blnixlv Brook, Mass. 102.
inne Hill, Ma.ss. 02.
Blue Hill, Me. .303.
Boar's Head, X. H. 262.
B.dtoii Falls, Vt. 204.
Bolton Notch, Conn. 94.
l5<dton, X. Y. 3.50.
Boone Id., Me. 207.
Boothbav, Me. 2-)0.
Boscawen, X. H. 197.
Boston, Mass. 5.

Atlienanm 17

tlathedial 20.

Christ Chundi 10.

City Hall 11.

Cf)mnion 15.

Cojip's Hi" 0.

Custom H ii.;e iO.

Faneiiil Hall 10

First Cliiin ;i 10.

Horticultural Hall 13.

Hospital 10.

King's (Tiapcl 13.

Masonic Temple 12.

Mu.seuiii 15,

Music Hall 1.3.

Natural History Build-
ing 16.

Nt «• I'ost-omce 12.

Odil Fellows Hall 19.

Old South Church 11.

Old State Hoii.se 10.

I'uhlicCardens 10.

Public Library 12.

State House 17.

U. S. Court Hou.so 13.
Boston Light 23.
Boterberg, X. Y. 345.
Bowerb.Kik.Me. 205.
Bowdoiii College 310.
Boxiord, M:iss. 270.
Bradford, .Mass. 280.
Bradford, N, II. 190
Braintree, Mass. 38.
Braintree, Vt. 200.

388

INDEX.

i '

■( !

. ii

rit

: !

Hi-iViKlon. Vt. 182.
IJranfnnl, Conn- 7fi.
Jiitttlehoro', Vt 103.
Jin-akncck Hill -.VUk
Hn'wster, Mass. 5().
Hricl^v'poH, Oiiin. 85, ill.
IJri(lK<'\vat'T, Mas.s. 54,
Rri-l-t(.ii, -Mf. -.W).
liridporl, Vt. 1H4.
l{ri;,'lit<.ii, Mass, iW, 124.
]{riiii«i('l(l, Ma.ss. K^O.
Hiislol, Me. 2'.)'.».
liri.^tc.l. N. 11. lOS.
llristnl, K. I. (in.
Mristol, Vt. 1S4.
JJrookficM, Conn. 114.
l?n.ok(l,'l(l, Ma.ss. ISO.
15r(i<>klliio, Mass. 85.
IJrodklyii, Conn. 118.
HiooklVn. N. V. 48. 339.

Citv Hall, :;:W.

fyi-ii'ss Hills :mO.

CiiTonvvi.dd IMH,

Navv Vard -.'.'.VJ.

Pio.siioctrarU;i;}0.
r>i-o\vnfiel<l, Mf. ;.S5.
I'.rown Uiiivcrsitv (54.
iiniiiswick, Me. 21»7. ."^OO.
Hrvaiifs Poiid, Mc 288.
15(iVklaii(l, M.'.ss. 170.
UinksiiiJit, Vi'. ;U8,
Hunker Hi'-, 'J5.
|}urlin<;t(.n, Vt. 184, 365.
Hnrnhain, Me. .'{14.
J5urnsi(lc, Conn 04.
15ntlcrini!k Falls, N.Y. ^44.
]5nxtiui, Mo. L>13.
Uuz/ards Bay 58, 02.

Caconiia. Can. 385.
<"alais. Me. 322.
Caldwt'li, N. Y. 357.
Canibridt^'c. Mass. 20.
Canalcn, Me. 317.
Caint'rsIiunipMt., Vt. 203.
Canifl's Hi'-'ii Mt.,Mc.2S0.
Caiiil.o lio. Id., N. B.322.
Caiiiiiton, N. 11. 212.
<"anaan, Conn. 1 15.
Canaan. N. 11 108.
Canton, Mass. (>2.
I'anton. Me. 2.S7.
Cap Hou4(\ Can. 383.
(.' ip TouniM'nto, Can. .385.
Cajio Ann, 245.

Cod 51.

F.li/alu'th, Mo. 273.

Ktoinitv, Can. 38(5.

Noddick, Mo. 2()7.

Torpoiso, M<:. 208.

Hosier, Me. 303.

Trinity, Can. 380.
Carolina, R. I. 70.

Cafoo Bay 274.
Ca^tine. Me. 302, 317.
Ca.-tlo Id., Mas.s. 22.
Ca>lloton. Vt. Ih7.
Cathodra! Rook 224.
Cat skill Mts., N. Y. 347.
Ciw\ Arlin;_'ton 185.

Clarendon 182.

Eor.sot 18,5.

S ilisl.urv 123.
Codarnioro, L. I. 340.
Centre Harbor, N. H. 21().
(.'lialioiiakoiigkonion Lake

104.
Clianddy, Can. 20S.
(.'lianiplain, I akc ,UH.
(,'liailoinont. Mass. 170.
(.'liarlcslMinrfi, Can. .■'.S4.
Charles Id., Conn. S4.
Charlostovn, Mass, 21.
Cliailostown, X. 11. 1(15.
Cliatoan IJiRot, Can. 3.st.
jChatean Richer, vlan. .".X5.
Ichathani, X. V. 142.
|(;iiaudi(ie F.ills ;5S:{.
jCliPlsoa, Mass. 27, 249.
jCliosliirP, Conn. 100.
Cliesliire, Mas^t. 1.53.
Chester, VC U,l.
Chest.Tlield.N. II. 10:t, ISO.
Chestnut Hill. .Mas:i. ;/■
Chesnii 'ook Lake, 200.
CliiioiKo, M.iss. 157.
Cliieoutinii, C '". 380.
China, Me. 313.
Chocorua, Mt. 214. 215, 221.
ClarenioJit, X, li. 107.
Clai.Midon Springs 182, 187.
Clear .Str;-i!a .Meadows244.
Clermont. N. Y. 347.
Clinton, Mass. 105. 120.
Clinton, Mt. 235.
C'ohasset, JMass. 48.
Coho.s, X. Y. 350.
Coleliester. VL 204.
C^>lu yi>ri-.i!,', N. Y. 345.
C.dehrook. X. H. 243, 289.
Cokraine G-irge 178.
Collinsviile, Conn. 109.
Coli;nd)ia SjtrinKs •'>48.
Concord, Mass. 28.
Con( i>rd, X. H. 104.
Coney Id., X. Y. 340.
Conneotiei't Lake 245.
;Contooi-o(!k Lak(! ISO.
iCunway, X. H. 214.
iConway .Inne.. Mo. 208.
!Copi»le Crown Mt. 218.
Cornwall, Conn. 115.
Cot nit I'oit, Mass. 5'.
Cranston, H. I. 05.
Crawford House 230. 235.
jCrotou River, X. Y. 343.

Crown Point, N. Y. 183.

.304.
Crovdon, N. H. 107.
Crvst,ilCasea<le, X. II. 227.
Crystal Lake, Vt. 171.
Cnuiniiiigton, Mass. 110.
C>ishin{,''s Id , Me. 274.
Cuttyluink Id., Ma.ss. 02.

Dalton, Mass. 144.
Dalton, X. II. 212.
l);unaris''otta, Mo. 209.
D.anlinry, Conn. 116.
Danielsonville, Conn. 118.
jltanviMo, Can. 2'.)0.
I Danville .Innc, .Me. 2^7.
Dartmouth CoUoffo 100.
Dartnionth, Mass. 02.
Daysvillo. (!onn. 118.
'DeUee, X. IL :;2,3.
Dedham, Ma.ss. 117.
D< crlield (iorge 178.
Deerlield, Mass. 103.
Deer Id.. .Mass. 20.
Dee, Islo, Me. 3(i3.
Denmark. Mo. 285.
Derby, Cmn. 111.
Dorry, X. II. 270.
Devil's D.mee Chamber 346
Dexter. Mo. 205.
jiiaiudnd Id., Ale. 274.
Diamond Id., X. II. 217.
Diamond Li., X. Y. 358.
;Di-htoii, Mass. 30.
iDix Id , Mo. :;01, 332.
Dixvillo Xotch, X. H. 243.
iDobbs' Kerrv, X. Y. 342
Dome Id., X. Y. '-iaO.
! Dorchester, Mass. 30.
'Double Heach, Coini. 77.
Dover, .Me. '205.
i Dover, X. H. 28L
|Dnck Id., X. H. 2(56.
jDunderberg, X'. Y. ,';43.
Dnnmoro Lake, Vt. 183.
Durham, X. II. 281.
Du-xbiuy, Mass. 50.

EauloClitr, X. II. 239.

Eagle Lake, Mo. ,'i05.

E. Andover, X. H. 198.

E. Hartford, Conn. 04.
jE. H.iven. ("onn. 77.

E, Rock. ('onn. 83.

Eastern 'I'ownships, Can.
174.

E.istham, Mass. 50.

Easthampton, Mass. 110.

East port, .Me. 322.

Echo Lakes, 225, 238,
lEd^rartown, Mass. 00.

I'v^'romont. Mass. 153.
I Elgin spring, Vt 184.

t, N. Y. 183.

II. 107.

kIc. N. H. 227.
', Vt. 171.
I, Mass. 110.
, Mf. ii74.
(I,, Mass. 1»2.

s. 144.

I. 212.

;i, Me. 2".t0.

mil. 116.

li', Conn. lis.

II. 2'. ID.

ic. Me. 287.
'ollcgc 160.
M;iss. '.»2.
mil. 118.
. :!23.
LSS. 117.
rge 17S.
ass. 163.
iss. 20.
('. :Ht3.
.'. 28j.
1. 111.
. 27l».

t:Cliaiijber346
2!tu.

., Me. 274.
., N. II. 217.
[., N. Y. 35S.
ss. 3S>.

01, 1132.

h, N. H. 243.
N. Y. 342

Y. SJil.

ass. 36.
II, Omii. 77.
I'.t.O.

281.

1 1 . 2(56.

Y. :;i3.
vt. 1S3.
1. 281.
iss. 50.

.N.

II. 239.

i\ .'iOS.
N. If. H)S.
Omii. 1*4.
nil. 77.
II. 83.
iisliiiis. Can.

Hs. 56.

Mass

322.

!2J, 238.
lass. 60.
ISS. 153.

Vt 184.

110.

Elliot, Mc. 268.
Kllsworth. Mf. 318.
Kntii'ld, ('oiiii. 133.
Enfielfl, N. II. 1!».S.
Km-1.'\v,)0(I, N. J. 341.
Knvl, N. H. 244, 2S!).
Essex .June, Vt. 204.
Esspx. Mass. 2.")7.
I'/ssex, N. Y. 365.
Kv.-rett, Mas.s. 240,
Exeter, N. II. 280.

Fabvan House, N. li. 233,

234.
Fairfax. Vt. 204.
Fairtlelil, Conn. 86,
Fairhaven, Conn. S3.
Fairliaveii, Mass. 01.
Fairliaveii, Vt. 188.
Faiiiee, Vt. 168.
Fall Iliver, Mass. 39,
Falls. Artists' 22.5.
Falls Villa;.,'e, Conn. 115,

l?asli IJisli 122, 153,

IkTlin 220.

Blaek Itiver 165, 181.

Bolton 204.

(. liauilioie 383.

15 Mile IGO.

Foxw.'irs 283.

Gi'uiv'eaniia 211.

(;il)hs's 232.

(ilen Kills 227.

tJlfiis 356.

Goodrich 225.

(iraii'l 323, 38.'j.

(iiand Mei" 374.

lloiisatonii' 1 1.5.

.laek.soii226.

Livennoie 210.

Lower Aiiinionoosuc 233

Moiitmorenci 384.

Nortfm's 122.

Rmiiford 288.

Saeo 260.

8er>'\v Allien 280.

Shawaiie^'an 374.

Kte. Anne 381.

St. Fereol 385.

iSutherlaiid 182.

Thompson's 220.

Turner's 178.

Yantie 96.
Falmouth, Mass. 58.
Farminifton, Conn. 109.
Faiinini,'ton, .Me. 201.
Farmington, N. If. 282.
Ferrisbui'Lih, Vt. 184.
FislHT's Id., N. Y. 73.
Fislierville, N. H. 107.

INDEX.

norenee, ^fass. 110, 160.
Flume, ths, N'. H. 240.
I'liime, the, Vt. 171.
Flushing,', E. I. 47, 340.
Forest Hills, 35.
Fort .\mi, N'. Y. 356.

Clinton N*. Y. 344.

Edward, N. Y. 355.

Fairfield, Me. 323

Halifax, .Me. 314.

Hill, C<mn. 72.

Kent, Mo. 324.

Lee, N. Y. 311.

Mass.aehusetts 1.56.

.M«>iitu">iiiery(new) 2ii7.

Moiit^'oinerv (oil) 344.

Point, Me. :!17.

Preble, Me. 274.

Tieonderoi^a 183, ;;62.

Warren, Mass. 23.

Wushiii>,'ton, N. Y. 341.

■\Villiaiii Henry :!50.

■NVoostei-, Conn. 83.
14-Mih- III.. N, Y. 350.
^Foxcroi't, .Me. 205.
j Franiin.irham, Alass, 126.
Fraiieestnwii, N. H. 102.
Franrniiia Mts. 238.
Franklin, Mass. 1 17.
Franklin, Mt. 2:'.6.
Franldiii, N. M. 107.
Frederieto.. N. B. 319.
Frei'port. Me. 300.
Fresh Pond. .Mass. 34.
Fryuburg, Me. 285.

Ga-^etown, N. 13. 320,
iOardiner, .Me. 311.
Gardner, Mass. 177.
Garnet Pools, N. II. 227.
Gaspee Point, U. I. 65.
Gay H(M<1, Mass. 60.
Geor/oaiina Falls, 241.
(ieor;,'e. Lake 357.
Geor^'etown, Mass. 270.
Georj,'etown, Me. 207.
Geor;,'eville, Can. 173.
Georj,'ia, Vt 204.
fii.mt's (irave. \. II. 233.
Gibbs' Falls. N. H. 232.
(;ilead. Me. 22s, 2s0.
Cilenburii, M'-. 316.
Glen Ellis Falls, N. II. 227,
Glen House, N'. H. 226. 2.35
(Jleiis Falls, \. Y. 3.J6.
tllouei'ster, Mass. 245.
Goodriel, Falls. \. H. 225
(Jorhani. Me. 213.
Gorham, N. H. 227, 2S9.
G()Vern(U'*s Id., Mass. 20.

389

'Granbv, Conn. piO.
iGrand Falls, N. P. 323.385.
(iiaiid .Meiian Id. 322.
(Jrand Wehoodie Lake 319.
(Jiaiiville, Vt 2!)0.
(Jreat Parriir^ton 152.
Great Falls, N. II. 213.
(ireat Gulf, N. II. 2:!5.
Great Head, Me, :i()4.
(IreeiilieM Hill, Conn. S\j.
Greenlielil, Mass. 177.
Greenlan.l, N. II. 263.
Green Mt , Me. 3o.").
(Jreen Ml , Vt. 182, 100.
Greenville, .Me. 206.
Gi''«iiwieh, Conn. 80.
Cii' fuwieh. II I. 67.
Guylock, Mass. 1.53.
Grotoii, Conn. 72, 73.
Grotoii, Mass. 105.
GiottJii, Vt. 160.
(iroiit's Corner, Mass. 177.
Grove Hall, .Mass. 36.
Guilford, Conn. 76.

Haddani, Conn. lo6.
Hadlev, .Ma.s.s. 161.
Ha-'|,r, N. Y. 36t.
Ha Ha Ba^-, Can. 3><6.
Haley's b'.. Me. 266,
llallowi'.i, Me. 311.
Htnide i Conn. PH.
Ilamilt 11. Mass. 257.
Hanii" ( n. Me. 318
Hamp Oh. X. H 262.

Be." h 262.

Fa .s 261.
Ha' over, X. H. 166.
H rpswell. Me. 275.
I arrison, .Me. 2S5.
lartfonl, Conn. 131.

.\tlieinenm 137.

Cedar (Irove 139.

Chun lies 135.

Old 8tatc House 136.

State House 135.
Harvard, Mass. 105.
Ilaivanl University 29.
Harvvieh, Mass. 56.
iHastiMgs-on-IIudso:i 342.
iHatli.'l.l, Mass. 162.
iHaveiliill. .Mass. 279.
Haverhill, X. H. 211.
Haverstraw, X. Y. 3^3.
Ha/ardville, Conn. 133.
Hebron, X. II. 108.
11. 11 Gate, X. Y. 47.
lluh-ate S|.rin-s, Vt. 2o7.
lii_dil,in.l Li-ht 57.
Hi-'Idaii 1.^, the .343.

Fislikill-Hn-the-Hndson.345 Governor's ld.,X.Y. 329, 48. Ilill.l)oro Briil-e 190.

FiPhlx

irtr

176.

Fitzwilliani, X. H. 180.

Grafton, .Mass. 126,
Grafton, N. H. 108.

Hiu^^hani, Mass. 21.
Hinsdale, Mass. 141'

390

INDEX.

■1

I''

Hinsdale, N H. 102.
Hiram, Mc. 285.
lloboki'ii, N, J. 341.
Ilolbrooli, Mass. 54.
II.fKl.'nif'ss, N. H. 210.
Hullis, N. H. 10«.
Holmes' Holi-, Mnss. 50, 60.
H"lvt»k(', Mas.s. 1;'.S.
Huoksct, N. 11. I!i4.
Ihx'Siu," TiiMiiel 1j4, 170.
Hoii|K!r. tli(! 157.
HouKli's Neck, Mass. 37.
Houltoii, Me. 323.
Hiibbardtoii. Vt. 187.
Hiulson, N. Y. 348.
Hull, Mass 23.
llyaiini.s, Mass. 56.
Hyde Park, N. Y. 346,

Indian Harbor, Conn. 89.

Lorettc, Can. 3S4,

Nc(;k, Conn. 77.

R<Hk. Mf>. 2U2.
Iimlcsidc, Mass. 153.
loiia Id., N. Y. 344.
Ipswich, Mass. 257.
Irasbiu-h, Vt. 171.
Irvin^ton, N. Y. 342.
Island Pond, Vt. 29().
Isian.l. Bla. kw.dl's 47.

IJluck 71.

IJoone 207.

IJiiKadicr M7-

Campo Hello 322.

Casth; 22.

Cniarlt's, Conn. 84.

t."onani<-ut 40.

(]onoy 3 10,

Constitution 345.

Contintiiital 205.

Cran'.' 3*^'>.

Crugor's 347.

C'.isliin.tr's 274.

Ciittyhuuk 92.

Deer 20.

nia-.non.;. Me. 274.

Diamond. .V. H. 217.

Diamond, N'. Y. :ioS.

Tioim-, N. Y. 350.

Dnston's 197.

Fishfir's 73.

Coat 40.

(ioc.iSl' '{85.

(Irand M. nan 322.
ticnriiiitr'H, Mass. 2(1.
(iov.'rnor H. >f. H. 215.
lloviTHor's, N. Y. 320.
Orossi' 385.
loiia 344.
l,<Mm, Masrt. 23.
Loii-jf, N. H. 217.
Long. N. Y. 330.
1.' well 256.

Martha's Vineyard 59.

Monliei,'an 316.

Monnt Desert 303. '

Mystic 72.

Nantucket 00.

Nanslion 02.

Neutral 322.

No Man's Land 59.

Orr's 207.

Prak's, Me. 274.

I'l'Mfijueese 02.

Plum, Mass. 260.

Prudence 06.

Rainsford's 23.

Rieluse 350.

Rhode 40.

Rifliiuoiid 270.

Staj^'c 208.

St-aen 340.

'< ' 1 Cher's 247.

T'ompson's 22,

Nulcour, Vt. 307.

Vinalhaven 316.

Ward's 3;i'.t.

Wctniore 317.

I'lhzabtth 02.

St. (Icorj^e's o<d,

Tliimolc 76.
Isle an:; Condres 3S5.

Deer, Me. 303.

Crand. Vt. 307.

of (Jrleans 3S5.

St. Helens' .370,
Isies of Shoals 205.
Ivy Mt., Conn. 115

Ja<kson, N. H. 22.5.
JaflVey. N. H. 170.
.Jamaica, I.. I. 340.
.Jamaica Plain, Mass. 35.
.lav. Mc. 201.
.Jcifcison Hill, N. H. 220.
Jctlcrsou, Mt. '2'M>.
Jone.-,poit, Me. .''/<»7.
.Ionian's Pond, Me. .304,

Katalidin, Mt.. .Vfe. 297.
Ke.irsar^. , Mt. i08.
Keene, N. H. 180.
Kcnnobunk, .Mc. -JfiH.
Kenit(diinikport 268.
Kent, ("onn. 1 14.
Kiarsai-e, .Mt. 224.
KillinLdv, Coim. 1 !S.
Killill'-Tnil P,.;,k, Vt. 182.

Killiit-wort!'. Conn, 70.
Kimlcrhool . N. V. ;'>!.':>,
Kin- o .Vft.. Mc. •_'%.
KiU'^ticld, M>- 2'.'2.
Kin-ston, ,N'. V. 3ir.
KiuKstfMi, R. f. 07.
Kittcry, .Me. 205.
Kiiowltoii's Landing 173.

Lachine Rapids 372.
Laeonia, N. H. 200.
Lafayette, Mt. 230.
Lake Ashley, Mass. 145.

Aylmer, Can. 200

R.'auport, Can. 384.

Romaseen, Vt. 187.

Cliaboiiakon<:;konion 104.

Cliamplain 301.

Clicsuncook, Me. 206.

China, Me. 313.

Coutoocook, N. H. 180.

Crystal, Vt. 171.

Dnnniore, Vt. 183.

Echo (Conway) 22.5.

E( ho (Franconia) 238.

Enfield, N. H. 108.

Geor},'e. N. Y. .3.57.

Gru.id Sclioodie 319.

Heart, N. 11. 108.

Lontr, Conn. 113.

Lon^', Me. 285.

Luzerne, N. Y. 35.5.

Mnhkccnac, Mass. 150.

Mas.sabesic, N. H. 103.

Mas.sawijijii, (an. 174.

Mcmi.hrcmajioi,' 171.

MerrynicctinK 210.

M><(!schead 204, 205

.'•jvfouu<l, N. H. 108.

• 1 Seven Isles 323.

Onota, Ma.ss. 145.

O.ssipcc, N. H. 220.

Pontoosuc, Mass. 145.

Profile, N. H. 230.

QTunsi^;iniond 120,

Rockland, N. Y. 343.

Saltonstall, t^.'onn. 77.

St. Catharine, Vt LSS.

St. Charles. Can. 384.

St. Joat'hin, Can. 38,5.

St. John, Can. 380.
I St. I'ctc; 374.
I Scbaj;(>, Me. 284.
j SinnipiiOv. N. Y. 314.

Si'cctaclc (Ponds) 114.

Si|Ham, N. H. 216, -217.

Sunaiuo. N. II. 106.

Twin, Conn. 123.

UmbaK<i,« 244. 280.

VillaKe, N. H. 209.

Waukawan 2o9.

Wcnliam 2.')('>.
1 Willou-ltby, Vt. 170.
! WiiMicpcsankee 215, 82.
jLaKcville. Cotni. 122.
|LakevilIe, Mass. .54.
; Lancaster, Mass. ?05.
: Lancaster. N. H. 212,
'Lancsboro, >' ,-,-; ]',?.
iLam'sv'Me, .'jI.is:- ii', .
jLawri M.-c, .V,;- -. 2?''.
ilA'.Hd Muie L\'i ,"(' 2iS.

INDEX.

391

Lclannn, Cnnn. OS.
I/b.iiKMi, \. If. lo;).
I,((l-(>s, the, N. II. '2-li.
Leeds. Mo. '2!)1.
Lc.\ .Mass. 148.
I,,p(|s, .Mass. 110.
Liiiiiiixville, Can. 174, 290,
I,ciiox, Mass. 147.
Lfv.Tf'tt, Mass. 102.
Lcvvistoii, Me. .'iOS.
l,rxiiii;foii, Mas.s. 28.
|,fy(l<'ii Gorge 178.
Lincoln, Mass. 175.
Lisbon Kails, Mc. 201.
Litclifit'M, Conn. 112.
Littleton, N. II. 21J.
Livennore Falls, N. II. 210,
Liveniiore, Me, 201.
Loiulon(l(;iTy, N. II. 270.
Lung lirancii, N. J. :ilO.
Lung M., Can. 17.'5.
Long M., Ma.ss. 23.
Long Id., N. 11. 217.
Long I.L, N. Y. 3:]i».
Long Lake, Conn. 113.
Long Lake, Mc. 2S.'j.
Longnicidow, Mass. 133.
Loiignenil, Can. .'$7;i.
Lon.sdale, R. I. 03.
Lovell, Me. 287.
Lowell Id , Mass. 2.JG.
Lowell. Mass. 180.
Ludlow, Vt. 181.
Lunenbnrg, Vt. 212.
Lyme, Conn. 7.").
I.vme, N. II. 107.
I.yndeborongh, N. II. 192.
Lyndon, Vt. 170.
Lynn, Mass. 250.

Maehi.is, Me. 307.
Madawaska, Me. 324.
Madison, .Mt. 230.
Madrid, Me. 202.
Magalloway River 214, 280.
Magnolia, Mass. 247.
Magffg, Can. 173.
Maine Fore,st, the 323.
Malbaic, Can. 385.
M.iiden, Mass. 275.
Mallefs 13av, Vt. 204.
Maiuaroneek, N. V. 90.
.Mauehester, Conn. 04.
Manchester, Mass. 245.
Manchester, N. H. 103.
Maiiehester, Vt. 185.
Manhattanville, N. Y. 341.
Manslield. Conn. 9".».
Manstield, Mt., VL 203.
Miirbkd.eaa, Mass. 255,
Marlilehead Neek, 256.
Marion, Mass. CI.
Marlboro, Mass, 126.

Marshfleld, Mass. 40.
Mai^tlipee, Mass. 50.
.Martha's Vineyard 59.
Masha Jiang Lake 118.
Matta]M.i,sctt, Ma.ss. 54.
Maftawand.eag, Me. 310.
.Me.\dain Jnnc., N. B. 310,
.Melndoes Falls, VL 100.
Median!. • Falls. Me. 287.
.Me<ltielil, Mas.s. 120.
Medtord. Ma.ss. 275.
Megnnticook Mts. 317.
Me'rose, ALass. 275.
Meredith, N. IL 200.
Mcriden, Conn. 140.
Merrynn-eting Lake 210.
■Metlnien. Ma.ss, 270.
I.Mlddli'boro, M/iss. 5L
iMiddlebiirv, Vt. 183.
LMiddle.sex,'Ma.s.s. 101.
iMi.ldlesex, Vt 202.
iMiddletown, Conn. 100.
.Middletown Sjirings, Vt.

1S,S.
Milan, X. H. 289,
Millord, Coini. 84.
Milford. Me. 310.
.Milford, N. IL 102.
Millerton, N. Y. 121.
.Milton, N. H. 213.
.Milton, Vt. 204.
Miiiot's Ledge, Mass. 49.
Missisqnoi Springs 200.
Mohegan, Conn. 08.
Moiiadnoek Mt., N. H. 170.
Monadiiock ML, VL 243.
Monhegan Id., Me. 310.
Monkton. Vt. 184.
Monroe Mt. 230.
Monson, Me. 90.
Monson, Mass. 205.
Montague, Mass. 177.
Montnioninei Falls 384.
Montptdier, Vt. 200.
.Montreal, Can. 201, 308.

Around the Mt. 372.

Bonseeours Market 370.

Champ de Mars .370.

Christ Church Catliedral
371.

Gesi'i, Church of tlie 371.

Gray Nunnery 372.

Lachiue Rapids 372.

McCill College 371.

Notre Dame 300.

81. George 372.

St. Patrick 371.

Victoria Hridge 373.

Victoria .Suuare 300.
Monunient Mt., Mass. 151.
Moo.se Chasm, Me. 280.
Moonehcad Lake 204, 296.
MooselA)cuiaguntic 29i

Moosilauke ML N. 11. 211.
Moriah, Mt., N. H. 22S.
.Morris, Conn. 1 13.
Moultonlmro, N. II. 210.
Mount Adams, N. il. 230.

.Kolus, Vt. 180.

Againenti( us, Me. 207.

Annanancfi, Vt. 170.

Anthony, Vt. ISO.

Ascutncy, Vt. 10(>.

Auburn Cemetery 33.

Raid, N. 11.239.

Helknap, N. H. 200, 219.

Carmel, Conn. los.

Chocorua, N. II. 214, 221.

Clinton, N. II. 2.3.5.

Cro'-Nest, N. Y. 345.

Desert, Me. .303.

Dundeiberg, N. Y. 343,

Klcplia itis. Can. 173.

Fiiuim X, Vt. 18.'i.

Everett, Mass. 1.52.

Franklin, N. H. 2.30.

(irevlock, Mass. 153.

Hayes, N. II. 228.

Iloiyoke. Ma.ss. 100.

Hopkins 157.

Hope, R. I. m.

IL^r, VL 170.

Independencp, Vt. .363,

Jeirerson 236.

Katahdin, Me. 207, 319.

Kear.sarge, N. II. 108.

Kiarsarge, N. U. 224,

Kilburn 105.

Kineo 200.

Lafayette. N. H. 239.

Madison 230.

Major, N. H. 218.

Mansti.dd, Vt. 20,3.

Megnnticook, Me. 317.

Monarlnock N. H. 179.

-Monadnoek, Vt. 243.

Monroe 230.

Monument, Mass. 151.

Moosilauke. N. XL 211,

Moriah, N. II. 228.

Noiu>tuek, Ma.ss. 100.

<)s."ipee, N. H. 210, 220.

Owl's Head, Can. 172.

Owl's Held, N. H. 211.

I'assacoiiaway 220.

PiiUKK h', Can. 174.

Pinnacle, N. H. 194.

Pleasant, Me. 285.

Pleasant, N. II. 236,

Prolile, N. H. 239.

Prosjiect. (Jonn. 11.5.

Prospect, N, H. 210.

Pidaski, VL 1G3.

Ragged, N. II. 198.

Riga, Conn. 121.

Ruuillard, Cun. 290.

■I

392

INDEX.

«;»

8tc Anne, Can. SS5.

!Sf. Vinrpiit, N. Y. :54l.

Hu^ar lioal, Mass. lOL'.

Siiri)ris.;, N. II. 228.

Tabor, Vt. 18').

Tohy, Mass. 102.

Tom, Cniin. li;i.

Tom, Mass. HiO.

Tom, Vt. IW.

V.nioii, N. II. 102.

Wiiiitastiquot 10.'}.

Wasliiii},'ton, Mass. 152.

AVasliington, N. II. 2:'A.
Ascent fiom Ciaw-

ford's ^.'i.O.
Ascent from Goiliam

23(5.
Carriaj^e-road 235,
Railway 234.
View 2.37.

AVhitcfaco, N. II. 220,

Willaid, N. n. 231.
Mountains, Adirondack 305

Allagash 323.

Berkshire 142.

C,'at:-kill 347.

Dixvillo 243.

Franeonia 238.

(Jroen 1.S2- ISO, 199-204,

Helderher',' 348.

lliKldan.ls 343, .344.

Laurentian :'.7S, 3S5.

Lnnenourg 212.

Magalloway •2\'>.

Jlcgunticook 317.

I'ilot 212.

«and\vitli 220.

iShawuiigniik 346.

White 221.
Murray Bay, Can. 3S5.
Myrieks, Mass. 54.
Mystic, Conn. 72.
Mystic Bond 1S9.

Vahant, Mass. 21.
*Vantasket Beach 23.
Nantneket 60.
Naples, Me. 284.
Narragansett Bay 65.
Narragaiisett Fort 6'.».
Narragansett Bier OS.
Naslina, N. 11. 1'.>1.
Natiek. Ma.ss. 124.
Natiind Bridge 154.
Nangatuek, Conn. 111.
Nauslion Id. !t2.
Newark. Vt. 171.
New Bedford, Mass. 90.
New Britain, Conn. 95.
Newburg, N. Y. 345.
Newbury, Vt. 168.
Ncwburyport, Mass. 258.
Newcastle, Me. 299,

Newfound Lake 198.
New (Jloueest<r, Me. 287.
New Hartford. Conn. 120.
New Haven, Conn. 77, 141

Art Gallery 81.

Cemetery 78.

Ka.st Uoek 83.

Bublic Green 79.

Savin Uoek 83,

Slate llousi; SO.

West Roek S3,

Yale College SO.
New ITaveii, Vt. 1R4.
New I>ebaiion Springs 146.
New London, Conn. 72.
Newmarket, N. II,2(i7, 2S1.
New Marlboro, Mass. 2.02.
New Milford, C(jiin. 114.
Newport, Me. .".14
Newjiort, R. I. 40, 60.

Bellevne Ave. 44.

First Beach 45.

Fort Adams 4(1.

Islanils, the 4(>.

Lawton's Valley 44.

Purgatory 45.

r -dwood Library 43.

Ro; >id Tower 43.

State House 42.
New]iort, Vt. 171.
New Roehelle, N. Y. 00.
Newton, Mass. 35, 120, 124.
Newtown, Conn. 114.
New York City 325,

Astor Library 333.

Battery .329.

Hay, tiie 329.

Bible House 33.3.

Isoulevard 338.

Rowling Green 329.

Broadway 330, 335.

Cathedral 330.

Central Bark 330.

Chri-t Church 335.

City Hall 332.

Cooiier Institute 333.

Court House 332.

Custom House 331.

Fifth Avenue 335.

Five Points 332.

Grace Church 33.3.

Grand Central Depot 330.

High lUidge -MS.

Lenox Libraiy 338.

Madison Stjuare 334.

National Academy of
I'esii,'!! 3:',4.

New Post-Oirice 332.

New York University 333

Park Row 331.

Reservoir 335.

St. George 334.

St. Fuul 331.

Sii Preasury 3.30.

T( 'le Lnianuel 3:'>6.

Tono ,, the 332.

Trinity Cliurcdi 330.

Uiiion Square 333,

Wall. Street .330.

Waril's Island .339.

Y. M.C. Association 334.
.Viaiitic, Conn. 74.
Nix's Mate, Mass. 23.
Norfolk, Conn. 120,
Nnrmaii's Woe 240.
Nnrotoii, Comi. S7.
Norridgewock, Me. 29.3.
N. Adams, Mass. 154.
.N'orthamiiton, Mass. 159,
Noitliboro, Jlass. 126.
N. Conway, N. II. 223, 2S7.
Nortldield. Mass. 102.
Niirthlli'ld, Vt. 200.
N. Ilavi u, Ctiun. 141.
N. Stratiord, N. H. 243.
N(Mtlnnuberland, N. II.

212, 2'i3, 2110.
N. Yarmouth, Me. 287.
Norton's Falls, Conn. 122.
.Norwalk, Conn. 87.
.Norwich, Conn. 90, 119.
Norwidi. Vt. 100.
Notch, B(!lton, Conn. 94.

Dixville, N. H. 243.

Frani'ouia, N. H. 238.

<;rafton. Me. 289.

IMnUham, N. H. 220.

Sandgate, Vt. 180.

Snniggler's, Vt. 202.

White Mt. 231.

Wilmington, N. Y. 307.

Oak Bluffs. Mass. 00.
Old Deerlield. Ma.ss. 163.
Old Hadlev. Mass. 161.
Ohl Ordiard Beach 283.
Oldtown, Me. 318.
Ore Hill. Conn. 12L
Orford ML, Can. 173.
v)rford, N. H. 168.
Orient Sjirings, Mass. 102.
Orono, Me. 318.
Osceola, Mt. 242.
Gssipee ML, N.H.219, 220.
Ossipee, N. il. 214.
(Jtta Quechee Valley, Vt.

199.

Owl's Head Mt., Cau. ITS.
Oxford, Me. 288.
Oxford, Mass. 104.

Palenville, N. Y. 34S.
Palisad.s, the 341.
Palmer, Mass. 130.
Paris Hill. Me. 288,
Pannachene Lake 289.

» .L I

/ rv

INDEX.

iO.
i\ :536.

330.
'Si.

a1i(.n 334.

. '2a.

JO.

e. 2!'3,

1'j4.

ass. 159.
. 1-20.
. 223, 2S7.
. 102.
00.

141.
II. 243.
, N. II.

0. 287.
oun. 122,
87.

'.to, 119.
3.

L.V>nn. 04.
. 243.
H. 238.
fSO.
11.226.
ISO.

K. Y. 3G7.

PH.sfine Id., Mns«). 92. | Profile, the 239.

rnssacoiiiiway Mt. 220. | Prospect Mt.. Coiiii. ll.").
pjissuiiijisic, Vt. 109. IProspt'ct Mt., N. H. 210.

Patten, Me. 310. |Prnnfs Neck, Me. 270.

Paiildiii},' Manor, N. Y. 342. Providence, R. I. 03.

00.

ss. 163.
I. 101.

k'h 283.

,173.

Mass. 102.

219, 220.

,4.

alley, Yt.

ICau. 1:2.

I34S.

Pawtiicket, It. I. 02.
I'awtuxct, U. I. 65.
I'.mImkIv, Mass. 253.
I'.arcl.ilo, R. I. 08.
Peak's Id., Me. 274.
Peekskill. N. Y..343.
Peiliaiii F(irt, Mass. 179.
I'riiiaiiuid, Me. 2',»'.>.
PeiiiiKewasset Valley 210
I'riuMineese Id. 02.
I'epperell, Ma.ss. 105.
Peipiot House, Conn. 74.
Perrv's Peak, Mass. 148.
I'rte'rl)()ro, N. H. 180.
I'liillips, Me. 202.
i'liips»)nrg. Me, 207.
Piernioiit, N. J. 342.
Pi-eon Cove, Ma.ss. 247.
Pittshf.rf,', N. H. 245.
Pitt.stield. Mass. 144.
Pittsford, N. H. 182.
Piae. ntia.^N. Y. 346.
Plainlield, Conn. 04.
Plainvillc, Conn. 109.
Piattshuru', N. Y. 367.
Pleasant, Mt. 2.:0
Plymoiitli, Conn. 112.
Plymouth, Mass. 51.

iUirving Hill 53.

Fort'-father's Roek 52.

Pilgiim Hall 52.

Plvnioutli Forest b'i.
Plvinonth, N. H. 210, 217

•J42.
Poeasset, Mass. 58.
r.iint.Jndith, R. I. 69.
I'oint Levi, Can. 290, 383.
point Shirley, Mass. 20.
I'nintYet. Conn. 118.
Ponipanoosuc, Vt. lt>7.
Pool, the N. H. 240.
Port Chester. N. Y. 90.
Pnrt Henrv. N. Y. 365.
pMft Kent, N. Y. 367.
I'urtland, Me. 270, 283.

t:'ity Hall 272.

Cussoni House 272.

Evergreen Cein. 273.

Ottscrvatorv 272.

Post Office "273.

W. Promenade 271.
l'( rtsmoutli, N. H. 263.
P'U-hkeepsie, N. Y. 346.
Pouitney. Vt. 1S7.
PnH(pif. Isle. Me. 323.
I'linecton, Mass. 177.
I'lo.torsville, Vt. 181.
I'l-Mtile Honae 238.

17*

Arcaile (53.

.■\tlienieuni 04.

IJrowii University 64.

Monument 03.

R. . Hospital 04.
Provincetown, .Mas.-^ f>7.
Prudence Id., R. I. 06.
Pulaski .Mt., Vt. 108.
Putnam, Conn. 117.
Putney, Vt. 164.

Quebec, Can. 290, 375.

Catliedral 380.

Citadel 37'.».

Durham Terrace 378.

Kn^:lisll Cathedml 378.

C olden Do},' 3S2.

Hotid Dieu 380.

.Jesuit ?;uildiii.!,'S 381.

Laval University 381.

Marine Hosjiital 382.

Market Square 380.

Mt. Ilenuou Ceni. 383.

Not re Danxe des Viotoires
383.

Pari iai- lent House 380.

Phi'-e id'Aritses 378.

PljtUEs of Abrsihain SSX.

Pr»>i-ott Gat*' 38().

Srai'inarv 381.

S*. Joiiii's»;ate .37<>.

St. Louis Cite :\7^

Ursiiline Convent ;!81.

Wolte ami Montcalm
Monument .'j7'.>.
Queens Fort, IL I. 60.
Quincy, Mass. .3,7.
Qui:isi<,'aniond Lake 126.
Quoddy Hea«l. Me. 322.

Rafe's Chasm, Mass. 247.

Ra'-C!,'ed Mt.. N. H. 19S.

Randoli)h Hil' 228, 230.

Randol])li, Vt. 200.

Ran.uel.v Lakes 245. 202.
iRavnliam, Mass. 3S.
'KeadfieM, Me. 309,
;Reailiii<,% ('nun. 1 10.
i Reading,', Mass. •J70.
iReadville. Mass. «;2.
I Recluse Id . N. Y. 359.

Red Hili, N, H. 210.
i Revere Beach, 27.

Rhinebeck-on-Hudson 347.
I Rhode Island 40, 40.

Hichfoid, Vt. 207.

Uv' hmond, Ciin. 200.
i Richmond Id. 270.

Richmond, Me. 311.
Ridicelleld, Conn. 116.
Ridley's Station, Vt. 203.
Rindyc, N. H. 179.
Ripton, Vt. 184.
River, Ainmonoosuc 233,
290.

Androscoggin 289, 291,
3()S, 310.

Aroostook 323, 324.

Cliaudiire 313. .383.

Connecticut 75, 106, 134,
157, 109, 211, 243, 245.

East 47, 3.39.

Farinin;,'t<tn 109, 143.

Hou.satonic 115, 148, 1.53.

Hudson 340, 350.

Kenmdpec 293, 3'1.

Lamoille 203, 204.

Merrimac 189, 193, 197,
2.'.S. i>7.s. 279.

Missi.sipioi 200.

Naiigatuck 111.

Passumpsic l(i9.

Pciui^cwasset 210, 241.

Penobs. ot 2;t6, 316.

Ri( heheii 207. 3t;8, 373.

Suco 223, 231, 209, 285.

Sa;,'ucnav 3S;k

St. Croix 322.

St. .John 320. 323.

St. LaureiK-e 369, 372.
37:5, 3S4.

St. Maurice 374.

Thames '.Hi.

Winooski 203, 2o4.
Ftiverilale, Mas.s. 240.
lii'-irmouth Rock.s, 262.
Iliviere du Li'«ip 3C"., 385.
Ro<liester, N. H. 213, 282.
Ro(dvlaiid Lake. N. Y. .343.
Rockland, Me, 301, 316.
Rnckjioit, Ma.ss. 247.
Iloekville, Conn. 94.
Rocky Hill. Conn. 140.
Rockv Point, R. I. 0.'».
ilo-.Ts' Slide, N. Y. 360.
Roudout, N. V. 340.
Roslyn, L. I. 340.
Rouu'enioiit Mt. 208.
Houillard Mt. 290.
Rocnd Id., Can. 172.
IlouM.'s Point. X. Y. 207.
! Rowley, Mass. 208.
Rox'eiry, .Mass, 30.
RoxiMiiy. Vt, 200.
Rovalton, Vt. 200.
Rumfoid Falls, Me. 288.
Rnmnev, .\. H. 211.
Rutland, Vt. 1.'>1.
R\e llca.h, N. II. 203.
Rye-ute, vt. t08.
Rye, N. Y. W.

INDEX.

V .1

* !)

; i'

Sabbath Day Point a&D.
ya<c.'iraiiiia, Mc. 'JI3.
.SacliiMu's llt;ad, Coiiii. 70.
Saclioiii's riaiii, Conn. 1)7.
Haco, Me. 200.
.Saco i'ooi 201).
.Sage's Uavitic, Conn. 122.
»Saf4;ucnay liivcr liH.'i.
St. Albans, Vt. 204.
St. AikIr'W, N. \i. '^-l-l.
iStc. Anne, Can. .'5S4.
St. diaries, Lake •J.S4.
.St. Fcreol Falls ^85.
St. Fiancis, Me ;^21.
St. (JoorRe, Me. 301.
St. Ilvarinthe, Can. 290.
St. John River ^20.
St. .lohiisbuiy, Vt. 109.
St. John's, Can. 208.
St. ,)c)lins, N. 1). 320.
St. Maurice Hiver .'{74.
St. Slej.hen, N. IJ. 323.
Salem, Ma.ss. 2.01.

Court Jiouse 2'):}.

Custom JInii.sp 2.03.

Ivuit India iMuseum 252.

I'hini/iier Hall 2r.2.

Salem Neck 2[i:{.
HiiIIhImuv Ilcach 200.
Halisbiirv, Conn. Iir., 121.
Halisbiiry. Mass. 2(K».
Hiilmoii r/|||,i, N. II.2h:j.
Hand^'ate Notch. Vt. |K0.
Sandislield, Mass. i/j2.
\K\\\\A .sprinu, Mass. 1. tl.
Sandwieh, Mush, 6ft.
.Suiidwich. N. II, 21'.».
Sankoty Head. 02.
Sarato};a Sjirings IJ.OO.

Battle held. '3.')r..

Cohimliian S|irinj.; .'^oi.

C(i|l!ll''''<M Sluing 3.02.

Crystal Sjjrin^' 3;j3.

FiXeelsior Sjirin^^ 354.

iieyser Spring .'ial.
^ake, the ;'(54.

I'ark, Con,un!Ss 3.02.

ravilion Spring 303.

Seltzer Spring 3,03.

Star Sjiring 3,04.
Saugerties, N. Y. 347.
Savin Hock, Conn. S3.
Savov, Mass. );03.
Sawyer's Rock, N. II. 230.
S.iylirook, Conn. 7.0.
Searl)oro Reach 270, 283.
Selioodie Lakes, Me. 322.
Schooner Head, Mo. 304.
Seituate, Mass. 41).
Screw Auger Falls 280.
Scabrook, N. II. 201.
Searsi>ort, Me. 317.
Sebago Lake, Me. 284.

Sebec Lake, Me. 295.
Se.saeaehu Fond 02.
Seymour, Conn. HI.
Sharon, Mass. 62.
Sharon, Vt. 109.
Shawanegan Falls 374.
Shellield, Ma.s.s. 103.
Shelliehl, N. R. 320.
Shclbnrne Falls, Ma.sH. 179.
Shelbnrne, N. H. 289.
Sheldon Springs, Vt. 206.
Sherbrooke, Can. 174.
Shijipan Point, Conn. 89.
Shoals, Lslcs of 20.0.
Shrewsbnry, Mass. 12G.
Siasconset, Alass. 01.
Silver Cascade, 2.32.
Simsbury, Conn. 109.
Sing Sing, N. Y. 343.
Skinner Hollow, Vt. 185.
Skiimer's h\., (,'an. 172.
Skowh.gan. Me. 293.
Sleepy Hollow, N. Y. .342.
smugglers' Notch, Vt, 202.
Solon, Me. 294.
Somerville, Mass. 249, 275.
Somes' Sound, Me. 300.
Soril, (,'an. 373.
S- .AdaniM, MuHM. 153.
H. Riaintree, M.i.ss. 38, 51.
H- Cornwall, t'onn. 115.
S. Decr/iehl, MasM. 102.
H. Fgremont, Mass. 16U.
H. Franilogham 125.
S. Hadley, Mass. 158,

nithingloii, Conn. 109.
S. Kiugsjowli, ll. I. 09.
S. Mountain, Mass. 145.
S. Norwalk, Conn. 87.
S. I'aris, Me. 288.
Southport, Conn. 80.
Mouthiiort, Me. 299.
S. Royiilton, Vt. 200.
S. Vernon, Vt. 102.
Southwest Harbor.Me. 306.
H. Windh im, .Me. 284.
.S. Winds(jr, Conn. 140.
Sparkling Cascade 232.
Si>ecta( le I'onds 114.
Spencer, Ma.ss. 130.
Spot I'ond 189, 275.
Springlield, Mass. 131, 157.

City Lil)rary 1.32.

Court House 132.

U. S. Armory 131.
Springfield, Vt. 105, 181.
Springvftle, Me. 213.
Spuvten Duyvil Creek, N.

Y. 341.
Spv Fond, Mass. 34.
Sqiiam Lake 217, 220.
S<iuantuin Point 37.
Statford Springs 99.

Stage Id., M(!. 200.
Stamford, Conn. 88.
Standish, Me. 285.
Stanstead, Can. 174.
Star Id., N. II. 2Co.
Starks, Me. 294.
Stoekbridgc, Mu.ss. 149.
Stonehani, Ma.s.s. 275.
.Stonington, Conn. 71.
Stony Creek, Conn. 70.
Stony Point, N. Y. 343.
Stow, Vt. 202.
Stratford . N. II. 282.
Stratford, Conn. 84.
Stratfonl, N. H. 290.
Stratham, N. H. 207.
.Stratton Caj), Vt. 185.
Strong, Me. 292.
Sudburv, Mass. 125.
Sugar L'oafMt. 102.
Summit, Vt. 181.
Sun;ii)ee Lake, N. II. 196.
SuiKook, N. H. 194.
Sunderland, Mass. 162.
Surjirise, Ml. 228.
Sutherland Falks, Vt. 182.
Swamp (dtt. Mass. 251.
Swanton, VI. 207.
Sw.inzey. N. H. 102.
.Sylvan (ihide Cataract 232

Tndousae, Can. ()8fi.
Talcott m., Conn. 139.
Tappiin. N. .L 342.
Tiijiiian Zee 342.
tarrtlown, N. Y. .')42,
'I'uunton, Mass. 3*1.
Templetoii, Majsn (77.
'i'ewksliury, Mass. \Wt.
Thaeher's h\., Mass. 247.
The Forks, Me. 294.
TJietford, Vt. 107.
Thimble Is., Conn. 76.
Thomaston, Me. 301,
Thompson, Conn. 104, 117.
ThomjKsons Falls, N. il.

226.
Thon)i)sofi'« 14. 22.
Thomj>8on\ill^ 13.'J,
Three Rivers. Can. 290, 37 »
T;)rogg's P<nnt, N. Y. 47.
Ticondei'oga, Fort 183,3*^.2.
Tilton, N. H. 209.
Tivoli, N. Y. 347.
iTobv Mt. 102. ♦
jTolland, Conn. 99.
Toi)slield, Mas.s. 276.
Trov, N. H. ].?0.
Troy, N. Y. 350.
Truro, Mass. 50.
Tuokerman's Ravine, N.

H. 227, 237.
Tufts College, Ma.ss. 189.

(

INDEX.

. 140.
75.
71.
1. 70.
. 343.

>2.
>.

00.

07.
185.

!5.

H. 196.
91.
. 102.

Vt. 182.
s. 251.

02.
fira<;t 232

it,.
1. 139.

312.

177.

.SO.
ss. 247.
»4.

. 76.
301,

104, 117.
s, N. JI,

Tunicr'.s Falls, Miiss. 178.
Twill l-iikcs. Conn. 123.
Twill Mt. iioiise 233.

Uin»»nKnR Lake 244, 2S0.
riidiTflitr, N. Y. 345,
ll.p.r Barllett 230, 287.
ri-lnii, Me. 244, 281).
lixbritlgc, Muss. 93.

Vnii Burcii, Mc 324.
V.iiiccboro, .Mo. 310.
ViiriMinos, Clin. 373.
V.issalhoro, Mo. 313.
Viissiir ColloKO 340.
Vor^'cnnos, Vt. 184, 365.
ViTiion, Conii. 04.
Viinnn,Vt. 102.
VcipliUKjk's Point 343.
V.isliirc, Vt. I(i7.
Viiioyiml Haven 60.
Vineyard Sound i>2.
Viio do I'Eau, U. 1. 65.

Waflinsett, Mt. 177.
Wakcliold, Mass. 270.
Waidnl.oro, Mo. 300.
W;dliiij,M'(>rd, Conn. 140.
Wallinglord, Vt. 184.
AVali)olc, N. II. 180.
\V;ilthani, Mass. 175
Ward's Id., N. Y. 47, 339.
Ware, Mass. 90.
W.iieliani, Mass. .54.
AVaielmuso I'oint 133.
Warren, Me. 300.
\Sancn, Mass. 130.
Warren, N. H. 211.
Wan en, Jt. I. 66.
Hirwiek, 11. J 67.
W,i'l(i}»>ctoii, Miss. 143.
WasliiKz(//n, Mt. 234.
Witch U,H i'oint 70.
ViAUvhury, ^>>nii. 05.
\Vate/v<ify, Vi 202.
Watcrff/ivj, He. -Pib.
Watert<.»WM, Codb. 112.

Watertown, Mass. 84.
Wuterville, Conn. 112.
Waterville, Me. 30!t, 314.
Watervjile, N. U. 242.
Waiikawan Lako 2n;t.
Waiiniliek House 212. 220.
Waiire^jan, Conn, ll'.i.
Welistcr, Mass. 101.
Weeliawken, \. J, 341.
Weir .hinc, .Ma.ss. 00.
Weirs, N. H. 2(10, 215.
Wei.l, Me. 201.
Weileslev, .Mass. 124.
Well Meet, Mas.s. 56.
Wells l}eaeh 268, 283.
Wells liiver, Vt. 108, 211.
Weiiliani, .Mass. 250.
Weiitwortli. N. H. 211.
W'estlioio, Mass. 120.
W. Hrooklield. Mass. 130.
Westl.rook, Me. 284, 300.
Westerly, H. 1. 70.
Westtield, .Mass. 110, 142
Westlord. Mass. 176.
W. Lel.aiioii, N. II. lOO.
W. .Medford, .Mass. 188.
Westminster, Mass. 177.
Westminster, Vt. IW.
Weston, Mo. 310.
W. Ossiiioe. N. 11.214, 220.
West Point, N. Y. 344.
Westiiort, Conn. S7.
Westjiort, Me. 200.
Westjiort, .Mass. 02.
Westjiort, N. Y. 305.
West Hnek, Conn. 83.
W. Hutland, Vt. 182, 187.
W. I'roy, N. Y. 350.
Wetliers/ield, Conn. 130.
Weymoiitii, .Mass. 48.
Wliatily, Mass. 162.
Whilefaeo Mt. 220.
Wliitehall, N. Y. 188. 356.
Wliite Id., N. H. 260.
Wliit.e River June, Vt. 166,
100.

White Mt. Notch 231.

395

Wliito Mts. 213, 222.
Wiekford, n. I. 67.
Williraliani, Mass. 1.30.
Wiilard, Mt. 231.
Willey House 231.
W'illiainsliiirj;, Mass. 110.
Williams C<dlej,'e 156.
W'illiaiiistown, Mass. l.'iO.
Williiiiantie, Conn. 04.
WillniiKlil'V Lake 170.
Wiltnn, N. 11. 102.
Winrliendon, Mass. 170.
WiiK liost«'r. Mass. 180.
WiiKdiester. N. H. 102.
Wiiidliam, N. H. 270.
Windsor, Conn. 133.
Windsor, Mass. 144.
Windsor, Vt. 165.
Win^'ltoad, \. H. 2P2.
Winnopesaukeo Lake, N.

H. 215, 282.
Winooski, Vt. 204, 360.
Winsted, Conn. 113.
Winterport, Me. 318.
Wintlirop, Me. 308.
Wiscasset. Mo. 208.
Woluirn, Mass. 180.
Wol.-ottville. Conn. 11.3.
Woiriioro, N. H. 214, 218.
Wood's Hole, 50. 02.
Woodstock, Conn. 117.
Woodstock, N. H. 323.
Woodstock, N. H. 241,
Woodstock, Vt. 100.
Woolwicli, Me. 208.
Woonsocket, U. I. 0.3, 120.
Worcester. Mass. 127.

xVutiquariaii Soc. 128.

Industrial School 127.

M nmnonts 120.

Yalo College, Conn. 75, 80.
Yantic Falls, Conn. 96.
Yarmouth, Mo. 300.
Yarnioutli, Mass 50.
Yonkors, N. Y. 341.
York, Me. 266.

.200,371
K. Y. 47.

t 183, 3<.2.

276.

vine, N.
ass. 189.

396

INDEX.

Index of Historical Allusions.

Albany, N. Y. i\A^.

IhiUHav, Mo. UKl.

Hal lie of IJfiniiiiK'ton 186,

Hlof.dv Brook 102.

IJiiiikrr Hill 'JO,

Ciistiiu- 'M)2.

ttio Ohcsaiu'iike and
Shannnii 265.

TI)ii.h;inlt()n 187.

tlif Indians If))).

Lako. (Jcorp' 356.

I.C'xinKloM JH.

V(.(|iiji\skt>t -JSG.

I'ccinot Hill 72.

I'lattsiiiir^ mi.

<^ii('Ik'(' .'t7(>.

J^aratdKa '.if)!").

Tnrncr'H !'alls 178.
niddcl'di-d '-()'.».
iWork Island 71.
Hoston 7.

Braintrep. Mass. .S8.
Hriducport, Conn. sr>.
15ri>.)klit'lil. Mass. i;;().
15riniswick, Me. ;!()St.
J5uilin-ton, Vt. 307.
Cape Ann 248.
CajH! Cod .or*.
Castillo. M(>. ;i(>2.
Clianiltly, Can. 208.
< liaili'siown, N. II. 165.
CJfincord, N. H. 11)4.
Crown rc.int, N. Y. 304.
Cultyhunk, Mass. 92.

nanbuiT, Conn. 1 10.
Dcniicl'd, Mass. 103.
Dover, X. »I. 2S2.
Dnxbnry, Mass. 50.
Kml .Mnnt^oMicry, 344.
Kort Tii'ondi'nii,';!, .302.
KrVflim-, Mf. 2S0.
Iladlrv, .Mass, 101.
Haini-ton. N. If. 202.
Isles ot'.Slioah 2(M1.
Kennel. link, .Mr. 2(iS.
Lake Chani]ilain 301.
Lake (ieor;-'e .•'.57.
Lehaiiiiii, ( oiiii. (tS.
Liteliiii'id, (Jonn. 112, 113.
Londonderry, N. II. 27'.».
LoiiislMir^' Caiii|i;iigns 7.
Lvnn, .Mass. 25(i.
Marhleliead, Mass. 250.
Marshjiee, Mass. .'.fl,
Martha's Viiievaid 51t,
Milford, Conn. ,S4.
-Montrejil 308,
Mount Desert 300.
Nantu(!kot 00.
Narraj,'ansett Fort

O'J.
Natiek, Mns.s. 125.
New Hedl'ord, .Mass,
New Haven, Conn. 77.
New London. Conn. 72.
New York 328.
Xewlmryport, Mass. 200,
Newport, 11. I. 40.

Fight

00.

N..rridKPWoek, Me. 20.1.
Nortiiain|iti.n, Ma.s.s, 159.
I'eniaipiid, .Mo. 2!M).
PliipstnuK, Me. 297.
I'il^rrini Conipjiet 58.
IMvtiioiith, .Mass. 51.
Portland, Me. 271.
l''irtsnioiitli, N. H. 264.
I'rovidenre, R. 1.63.
Qiiel)e(! 370.
Uiiode Island 46.
Hye, N. H. 2(-:{.
.St..Iolin, N. n. 321.
Salfiii, .Mass. 253.
."^alishiiry. Conn. 123.
Sjiyhrook, Conn. 75.
Searliorotifjli, Me. 270.
Soutlijiort, Conn. 87.
Spriii};lie!d, .Mass. 131.'
Stoekltridi^e, Mass. 1 19.
Stoiiin^'toii, Conn. 71.
.Stony Point, N. Y. .343.
fSndliiiry, Mass. 125.
Thoniaston, Me. 3(H.
W.irwiek, II. I. 67.
Wells, Me. 20S.
West Point, N. Y. 344.
Whitehall. X. Y. 350.
Wliite Mts. 222.
Windsor, Conn. 133.
\Vore(ster, Mass. 129.
Yale College 75, 70, 80.
York, Me. 267.

Index of Biographiuai Allusions.

H ll

Adams, Charles Francis 38.
Ad.iiiis, John 37.
Adams, .John Quiney 37.
Ailams, rt.aniiiel 13.
Allen, Kthan 2()1, 303.
Allen, William 140.
All.st(m, WivshiiiKton 31, 45.
Ames, Fisher 117.
Andre, M.ajor .John 343.
Andrew, Gov. .John A. 24.
Arnold, Benedict 342, 3(53, 376.
IJ.anks, Xafhaniol P. 175.
Barlow, .Joel 110.
Baruards, the 1.5.3.
Banium, Phineas T. 86.
Boeclur, Henry Ward 113.
Bcccher, Lvnian 79, 113.
Bellows, Henry W. 181.
Berkeley, Dean George 45.
Bowdoii,, .lames 92, 310.
Brentons, the 40.
Brooks, Gov. John 189.
Brown, Col. John 152, 358, 863.

Brown, John 152. 113.

Bryant, William > ullcn 110, 157, 340.

Casey, Gen. fcjilas 07.

Cass, Lewis 281.

ChamlL-rlain, Gov. .7. L. .311.

Chamiiliiin, Samuel (le .301, 01, 55.

('lianii)lin Com. !Slephen08.

Channing, William KUery 42.

Chase, Bisho]i Philander 100.

Chase, ( hiet'-Justice Salmon P. 166.

Chase, Senator Dudky 100.

Choate, Hulus 257.

Cole, 'I'hoiuas 348.

Copley, .lohii Singleton 31.

Crosswell, Harry 79.

Dane, Nathan 250.

Davenport, .\liraliam 89.

Dawes, Henry L. 110.

Dickinson, Daniel S. 115.

Dix, John A. li'7.

Dixwell, John 80.

Douglas, Stt plien A. 1S3.

Downes, Com. John 62.

INDEX.

au7

1C6.

■'

PiuUi'y, (!<)V. Tliniii.is 30.

K^ifnii, (it'll, Williimi l.iO.

K.luards. Jnimtliiili 150, lf»0,

Jili.it, .Itihu :fti. liio.

Kllsworth, Olivor i;U.

KiiiiTSi'M. Kill! h WiiMo 28.

F, sscmlfii, William i'itt VM.

iMllils, tJut l.OO.

I'isk, Williur in:?.

rimtc, Atlminil Xudivw II. 70.

ri:,'tiiklin, lioiijaiiiiii 1 1.

(iinrisoii. William Llovd Ml

t..iy.s. tlir -J I.

lliitre, Jji'ii. Wiiliiim lol.

CiiMHlricli. C. A.7'.».

C.io.lricli. H. 0. 110.

Gorton, S iiinu-l «>7.

(inints, the i;i4.

( I it'i !»•)', Horace 102.

(irtciip, Gt'ii. (J. K. ()7.

CifciH', (icii. N'atliiiiii«'l 07.

(.piw, (ialusiiu A. 1 IS.

IImIi'. Senator .loliii 1'. 21.'}, 281,

liiilleck, Fitz (irenno 70.

lliiiiMick, .Jt)lin .'18.

llani'len. Cai>t. Jonathan 24S.

llawtlioriH-, Natlianicl •-''>4, 28, 210, .311.

IlaziMis, till! 2.S().

Holmes, ( Miver Woiiddl 30, 140.

IlooUer, (icn. Jnscph 102.

Ilosiiu'r, llarrit't < <. ;i'>.

llowiiiil, (Jen. Oliver O. 2!>1.

Howe, Klias, .Ir. VW.

Iliulson, Ilemlriek ^}0, 340.

h,s. Uisl¥)p Levi 8. 140.

.I'l^lson, Adoiiinim 27o.

KiHiwlton, Col. 'I'lioiiias 118.

Kiikx, Gen. lleiirv :'.ol.

i.aiiili'r, (icii. F. W. 254.

I. lurciices, the 27'-'.

Lincoln, Gen. Hcnj nnin 21.

i.(Mi:lollo\v, Henry W. :'.:{, 311.

liOWfll, Jame.s llu.ssell 'M.

I. von, (ion. Natlianiel lis.

M in.sti.ld. Gen. J. K. F. 107.

Marsh, (ieo. P. I'll).

.M id, LaikinG. 103.

M Iville, Herman 140.

Miantonomoh, 72. 1*7.

.Miller, Williair 140.

Mills, Samuel.). 156.

Munis, Rabbi Jud.ali 120.

.Morse, S. F. U. 7'.>, 340.

-Mii-av, John 240.

^luuay, W. H. H. 70.

Nail ;.iteno 98.

Nott. Eliplmlet in.

O.ssoll. .MaiK'aret Fuller. Countess d' 30.

I'aine, Thomas '.lO.

I'luker, Thomas 200.

I'a.ssaeonaway, I'.i4 J20, 222.

I'epliei.ll, Sir William 2(J.'>.

I'ereival, James Gale.s 140.

INrry. Com. Oliver Haziird 08.

I'hilip, Kiiij m.

I'liijis, Sir William 2:»S.

I'i.'keriii^ rininiliv 2.'i4.

I'ieree. Franklin liHi, 311.

Fowei-s, Hiram I'.t'.t.

rreble, Com. K.lward 272.

I'rescott, W illi.im H. 2.->4, 105.

I'litmim, (Jen. Israel 1 ID, 89, 254.

U.ile, Sebasti.in 2',t3.

Kantniil, Uobert, Jr. 250.

Uiimrord. Count 1'.'').

St. (Jastine. Vineent, Baron do 302.

Sainleman, Rnbert 110.

Saxe,..Ioliii Gofll'rey 2'>s.

Se.'ibiirv. Bishop Sannnl 74.

Shaw, ileiiry W. ("Josh. UillinKS ") 153.

Sherman, Uo^^'er 7'.*.

Silliman, Heii.janiiii 7!>.

Smith, Joseph 20(l.

Standish, Miles .'>!.

Stowr, .Mrs. Harriet Dcucber 113,

Stuart, Gilbert C. OS.

Thorean, Henry I). 28.

Ti<knor, (Jeor^,'e 17, 107.

Triimbulls, tht! \>S.

Uneas, 72, 97.

Ward, (Jen. Art mas 120.

W.tril, (Jen. F. T. 2.j4.

Warren, J.seph 27.

Washburnes, the 2'.ll.

W. l.ster, D.iniel 49, 287, 197, 210.

Webster, Noah 7'.».

Whitelleld, Geor^'e 2.'>0.

Whitnev, Prof. W.I), l.'.it.

Wliittier, John Greeiileaf 201.

Williams, Col. Kpjnalm 150. .350.

Willistoij, rsamuel llu.

Wilson. Henry 2S2.

Wiiisliiw, .\dmiral .lohn A. 50.

Winslow, (iov. Kdward 50.

Winslow, (Jen. J'llm 50.

Winslow, (Jov. Josiah 50.

Wintliri)]), .John 14.

WinthiMp, Theodme 79.

Woleotts, tiie 1;14.

Wonnolaiicet 194.

Youii- liriyi nil 104. 200,

Index of Quotations.

Adams, John Qiiiney 38, 58.
.\iidrew. .lohn A. 149.
li.iitol, Dr. (J. A. 215.

Ueoeher. Heiirv Ward 105, 114, 117, 121,
122. 147, 148, 149, 151. 152, 153. 205.
Berkeley, Dean 45.

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INDEX.

!»^.

Biard, Fatlior 307.

Brenner, Frediika 28, 147, 190, 217, 238.

Bryant, William Cnllen 151.

Burke, Ediuniid 24S.

('(inndinn Ifdn'l-Iinnk 174, 290, 372.

Chainiil.un, 8aiiiu<;l de 361.

('liapiuan. Rev. Dr. ICC.

(Jharlcv.ix, Father 2!»4.

Cliatcaubriand 344.

<J(tiine(!ti('ut Lef,'iKlature 70, 72.

Coolidge and Mansfield li»l. l!'2.

CooiH'r, J. Feninitire 20, 2i>.

C'i)nrie/r, livslnn 141.

Curtis, (.ieorge William 144,

Dickens, Charles <t, 10, lOn, 190.

Dilke, Sir Charles 20, 30, 57, 165, 212,

378.
Drake, Frane's S. 13, 28, 42, 50, 150, 201.
Dwight, I'res. Timothy 71, 80, 98, 99,

140, 158, 249, 200, 275, 360.
Emersdu, Raljih Waldo 28.
Everett, Edward 27, 52, 156, 215. .
Field, Uarby 222.
Gookin, Daniel, 59, 60.
Greylock, Godfrey 143, 145, 146.
Hawthorne, Nathaniel 151, 154, 155, 179.
Hayts, Dr. 200.
Ilenians, Mrs. 52.

Hitchcock, Dr. Edward 152, 178, 179.
Hoar, .Judge 129.
Howells, William D. 103, 386.
Humi)lireys, Col. 80.
Irving, Washington ^44, 346.
Johnston, Lady Arabella 254.
.losselyn, John 7, 15.
Kenibie, Funny 147.

King, Thomas Starr 212, 214, 215, 216.

'2"A, 223, 224, 225, 220, 227, 228, 232,
i 235, 237, 238, 239, 240, 241.

Lewis, Alonzo 22.

Longfellow, Henry W. 125, 126, 132, 240,
I 30, 51, 70, 324.
Lossing, Honson J. 73, 356.
I.yell, Sir Charles 00, 146, 188, 223.
Waniiier, X. 377.
Marryatt, Capt. 143.

Mather, Cotton 38, 51, 72, 70, 78, 84, 98,
I 130, i()3, 253, 257, 200.
Mortem, Thomas 33.
J'enuuiuiii : (t Ixdhid SOO.
'Percival, J. G. 217.
Pring, Capt. ::i7.
Sedgwick, Miss 143.
Sigourney Mrs. 97, 139,
Silliman, Prof. 109, 140, 147, 377.
.Smith, Cai.t. John 49, 55, 257.
Southey, Robert 189.
'Tuylor, Bayard 232.
I j.'honias. Judge 129.
Thoreau, H. D. 28, 49, 55, 57.
'Toc(iueville, de 80.
Trundmll, John 159.
iTwain, Mark 137.
Warville, Brissot dc 41, 63, 107, 130, 135,

204.
Weymouth, Capt. 301, 317.
Whittier, .)ohn G. 89, 104, 144-, 195, 215,

210, 220, 248, 250, 200, 262. 263, 275,

294 305, 321.
Williams, Roger 69.
Winthrop, Theodore 243, 244, 296, 297.
Wortley, Lady Emma S. 91, 92, 246.

.1'

INDEX.

399

, 215, 216.
', 228, 2;i2,
[.

i, 132, 246,
223.
78, 84, 98,

Index to Bail way 3.

130, 135,

195, 215,
263, 27i>,

)6, 297.
246.

Ashuelot 102.

Atliol and EiifieM 100.

Bangor and I'iscataquis 295.

Boston and All)any 124, 141.

Boston, Clinton, and Fitchburg 125

Boston, Concoi'd, and Montreal 209.

Bostcn, Hartford, and Erie 117.

Woonsocket Division 120.
Boston, Lowell, and Nashua 188.
Boston and Maine 275.

Dover ami Winnopesaukee 282.
Boston and Providence 02.
Cape Cod 54.
Cliesliire i7l>.
Concord 192

Concord and Clareniont 196,
Connecticut and i'iissunii)sic 108.
Connecticut River 157.
Connec^ticut Valley 106.
Connecticut Western 120.
Danbury and Nc-walk 115.
Eastern 248.

Amesbury Brand i 261.

Essex Branch 257.

Marbiehead Branch 255.

P. G. F. and Coirvay 213.
European and North American 318.
Fairhaven 54.
Fitchburg 175.
Grand Trunk 287.

Hartford, Providence, and Fishkill 94.
Ilousatonic 114, 147.

Knox and Lincoln 297.
Lowell and Lawrence 279.
Maine Central 30/, 309.

Androscoggin 291.
Manchester and Lawrence 279.
Monadnock 179.
Naugatu(;k 111.

New Brunswick and Canada 323.
New Haven, Hartford, and Springfield

133.
New Haven and Stonington 71.
New Haven and Northampton 108.
New York and New Haven 84.
Newburyi)f»rt 276.
Northern (N. H.) 197.
New London Northern 96.
Old C(jlony 36.

Portland and Ogdensburg 284.
Portland end Uochester 213.
Portland and Oxford Central 287.
Providence and Bristol 00.
Providence and V/orcester 93.
Rensselaer and Saratoga 187, 350.
Rutland and Washington 187.
Salem and Lowell 255.
South Shore 48.
Stonington and Providence 67.
Vennont (Central 199.

Rutland Division 181.
Vermont and Mass. 177.
Worcester aud Nashua 104.

Steamers.

Boston to Bangor 316.

'• " Hinghaiii 22.

" " Nahant 20.

" " St. John 321.
Fall River Line 47.
Norwich " 119.
Stonington " 71.
Martha's Vineyard 59, 92.
St. Lawrence River 373.
Hudson " 340.

Saguenay River 375, 385.
Mt. Desert Line 302.
Isles of Shoals 205.
Nai-ragansett Bay 65,
Casco " 274.

Passamaquoddy Bay 322.
Lake Chaniplain 301.

'* George 357.

*' Winnepesaukee 215.

ALPHABETICAL INDEX TO ADVERTISEMENTS.

Pagb

AMERICAN HOUSE C

ADVENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS, &c. . p. facing 2tl p. cover

BRADFORD & ANTHONY 4

CHICKERING & SONS 23

CHILSON, GARDNER, 24

DREXEL & CO 20

EASTERN RAILROAD . . . . 3(1 p. cover and p. facing 3d p. cover.

GOURAUD, DR. T. FELIX, 21

HEWINS & IIOLLIS 2

"INGLE3IDE" 5

INTERNATIONAL STEAMSHIP CO 12

MACULLAR, WILLIAMS, & PARKER 3

MILLER (THE HENRY F.) PIANO .... last colored leaf.
MERRIMAN, G. & C 4

NEW YORK TRIBUNE 18,19

OAK HILL HOUSE 10

OSGOOD'S LIBRARY OF NOVELS 15

PARKER HOUSE. . . . • 7

PALMER, BACHELDERS, «& CO 5

PENNSYLVANIA RAILROAD 14

PORTLAND STEAM PACKET CO. . ' 11