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LIMBIRD, 143, STRAND, (iVieor Somerset House.) ^ 1833. ^v , ',"* A . ^'/^ • -^■, .^ •.-*i. ■«?" ■? f( A1"'TAI >' '(' © O.K"^ \ THE THREE VOYAGES OF CAPTAIN COOK ROUND THE WORLD. WITH A MAP OF THE WORLD, A PORTRAIT, AND A MEMOIR OF HIS LIFE. EMBELLISHED WITH TWENTY- EIGHT ENGRAVINGS. A NEW EDITION. LONDON: PRINTED AND PUBLISHED BT J. LIMBIRD, 143, STRAND, {Near Somerset House.') _ 1833. PREFACE. If 111 former times the Spaniards, the Portuguese, and the Venetians, surpassed us in the extent and importance of their geographical discoveries, this has long ceased to be the case ; and to the English the v, orld is indebted, not merely for opening to it new countries, but for a more correct knowledge of the globe itself, and the consequent best means of navigating the distant oceans. Of all the navigators that the world has produced. Captain Cook was onb of the most enterprising and skilful, and by far the roost successful; and the narrative of his three voyages nave long taken the precedence of works of this dt^cription. They have been published in all sizes, and may be said to nave become a text-book for schools, and an essential part of a seaman's library. Never, perhaps in the history of the world did science receire so large an accession from the labours of a single man as geo- graphy has done from Captain Cook. In his first voyage to the South seas, he discovered the Society Islands, determined the insularity of New Zealand ; discovered the straits which separate the two islands now called after his name, and made a complete survey of both. He afterwards explored the Eastern coast of New Holland, hitherto unknown, an extent of 27 deg. of latitude, or upwards of two thousand miles, and gave to his country a colony large enough for an empire, in New South Wales and Van Dieman's Land. In his second expedition, he resolved the great problem of a southern continent, having traversed that hemisphere, between the latitudes of 40 deg. and 70 deg., in such a manner as not to leave a possibility of its existence, unless near the pole, and out of the reach of navigation. During this voyage, he discovered New Caledonia, the largest island in the Southern Pacific, except New Zealand ; the island of Georgia, and an unknown coast^ which he named Sandwii^h Land, the thide of the southern he- misphere ; and having twice visited the tropical seas, he settled the situations of the old, and made several new, discoveries. The third voyage of Captain Cook, and in vvhich he unfortu- nately lost his life, was still more important, and is distinguished above all the rest, by the extent^d value of itsidi^ooyeriea,. j^ 1 ^' V <\w' t >^ ' II PRETACE Besides several smaller islands in the Southern Pacific, Captain Cook discovered, to the north of the equinoctial line, the group called the Sandwich [slands; which, from their situation and productions, bid fairer for becoming an object of consequence^ in the system of European navigation, than any other discovery in the South Sea. He afterward explored what had hitherto remained unknown of the western coast of America, from the latitude of 43 deg. to 70 deg. north, containing an extent of 3,500 miles ; ascertained the proximity of the two great continents of Asia and America ; passed the straits between them, and sur- veyed the coast on each side, to such a height of northern latitude, as to demonstrate the impracticability of a pas:«age in that hemis- phere, from the Atlantic into the Pacific Ocean, either by an eastern or a western course. In short, if we except the sea of Amur, and the Jntianese Archipelago, which still remain imper- fectly known to Europeans, he has completed the hydrography of the "habitable globe. In the narratives of these imi;)ortant voyages in the following pages, they have been stripped of much of their technicality^ and abridged by the omission of such details as were the least inter- esting ; no important fact or incident has, however, been left out and tne third voyage is given very amply. It is hoped that the present edition of these popular voyages will not only recommend itself to the public on account of its cheap and portable form, but by the numerous and spirited engravings, and excellent map, all of which have been expressly designed for the work ; and that nothing should be wanting to make the volume complete, a fine portrait of Captain Cook and a memoir of his life are prefixed. BIOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR or CAPTAIN JAMES COOK. James Cook, one of the most enterprising and skilful nar igators the world has produced, was born at Alarton in Cleveland, a village about four miles from Great Ay ton, in the county of York, on the 27 th October, 1728. His father, whose name was likewise James, was a day-labourer to Mr. Mew- burn, a very respectable farmer. In the year 1730, when our navigator was about two years old, his father removedf with his family to Great Ayton, and was employed as a hind by Thomas Scottowe, Esq., having the charge of a considerable farm in that neir^hbourhood, known by the name of Airy- holm. Ah the father continued long in that trust. Captain Cook was employed in assisting him in various kinds of husbandry suited to his years, until the age of thirteen. At that period he was put under the care of Mr. Pullen, a schoolmaster who taught at Ayton, where he learned arithmetic, book- keeping, &c., and is said to have shewn a very early genius for figures. While a b^y he displayed an extraordinary spirit of inquiry which was often not a little perplexing to his school-master. About January, 1745, at the age of seventeen, his father bound him apprentice to William Saunder- son for four years, to learn the grocery and haberdashery business, at Snaith, u populous fishing town about ten miles from Whitby ; but his natural inclination not having been consulted on this occasion, he soon quitted the counter in disgust, and in July, 1 746, he bound himself apprentice to Mr. J. Walker, of Whitby, for the term of three years. He first sailed on board the ship Freelove, burthen about 450 tons, chiefiy employed in the coal trade from Newcastle to London, and afterwards in the Three Brothers, about 600 tons burden. After two coal voyages the latter ship was taken into the service of Government, and sent as a transport to Middleburgh, to carry some troopoi to Dublin. In the spring of 1750, Mr. Cook shipped himself as a seaman on board the Maria, belonging to Mr. John Wilkinson, of Whitby, under the command of Captain Gaskin. In her he continued all the year in the Baltic trade. Early in February, 1752, Mr. Walker sent for him and made him mate of one of his vessels, called the Friendship, of about 400 tons burthen. In this station he continued till May or June, 1753, in the coal trade. At the breaking out of the war, in 1755, he entered into the king*s service, on board the Eagle, at that time commanded by Captain Hamer, and afterwards by Sir Hugh Palliser, who soon discovered his merit, and introduced him on the quarter-deck. MEMOIR OF CAPTAIN COOK. H In the year I'Jb'd, he was appointed master of the Northumberland, the flag-ship of Lord Colville, who hod taken the command of the squadron stationed on the coast of America. It was here, as he was often heard to say, that, during a hard winter, he first read Euclid, and applied himself to the study of mathematics and astronomy, without any otner assistance than what a few books, and his own industry afforded him. At the same time, that he thus round means to cultivate an'l improve his mind, and to supply the deficiencies of an early education, he was engaged in most of the busy and active scenes of war in America, At the siege of Quebec, Sir Charles Saunders committed to his charge the execution of services of the first importance in the naval department. He piloted the boats to the attack of Montmorency ; conducted the embarkation to the Heights of Abraham, examined the passage, and laid buoys for the security of the large ships in proceeding up the r<"er. The courage and address with which he acquitted himself in these services, gained him the warm friendship of Sir Charles Saunders and Lord Colvillc, who continued to patronize him during the rest of their lives, with the greatest zeal and affection. He received a commission as lieutenant, on the first day of April, I7GO ; and at the conclusion of the war, he was appointed, through the recommen- dation of Lord Colville and Sir Hugh Palliser, to survey the Gulf of St. Lawrence and the coast of Newfoundland. In the year 1765, he was with Sir William Bumaby on the Jamaica station ; and that officer having occasion to send dispatches to the Governor of Jucatan, relative to the logwood-cutters in the Bay of Honduras, Iiieu> tenant Cook was selected for that employment ; and he performed it in a manner which entitled him to the approbation of the Admiral. A rela- tion of this voyage and journey was published in the year 1769, under the title of '^ Remarks on a passage from the river Belise in the Bay of Hon. duras to Merid, the capital of the province of Jucatan in the Spanish West Indies, by Lieutenant Cook," in an octavo pamphlet. To a perfect knowledge of all the duties belonging to a sea-life, Mr. Cook added a great skill in astronomy. In the year 1767, the Royal Society resolved, that it would be proper to send persons into some part of die South Sea, to observe the transit of the planet Venus over the sun^s disk ; and our navigator was appointed by that learned body, with Mr. Charles Green, to observe the transit at Otaheite* On this occasion Lieutenant Cook was promoted to be Captain, and his commission bore date the 25th of Alay, 1768 — He immediately hoisted the pendant, and took command of the ship, in which he sailed down the river on the 30th of July. Of this voyage a connected account will be found in the following pages. Captain Cook came to anchor in the Downs on the 12th of June, after having been absent almost three years, and in that time had experienced every danger to which a voyage of such a length is incident, and in which he made discoveries equal to those of all the navigators of this country, from the time of Columbus to the present day. The narration of this ex- pedition was written by Dr. Hawkesworth. Soon after Captain Cook returned to England, it was resolved to equip two ships to complete the discovery of the southern hemisphere. It had long been a prevailing idea, that the unexplored part contained another continent, and Alexander Dalrymple, a gentleman of enterprising spirit, was fully persuaded of its existence. To ascertain « the fact was the principal object of this expedition ; and that nothing might be omitted that could tend to falicitate the enterptise, two ships were provided, fur* MEMOIR OF CAPTAIN COOK. n niithcd with every necesBary which could promote the hucccsh of the under- U^'ing. The first of these ships wan called the Resolution, under the com- mand of Captain Cook ; the other, the Adventure, commanded by Captain Furneaux. Both of them sailed from Deptford on the Jith of April, 1772, and returned to England, on the 14th of July, 1774; hoving, during three years and eighteen days (in which time the voyage was performed), lost but one man, by sickness, in Captain Cook's ships, although he had havigated throughout all the climates from 52 deg. north, to 71 deg. south, with a company of a hundred and eighteen men. The relation of this voyage was given to the public by Captain Cook himself, and by Mr. George Forster, son of Dr. Forster, who had been ap- pointed by Government to accompany him, for the purpose of making ob- servations on such natural productions as might be found in the course of the navigation. The want of success which attended Captain Cook's attempt to discover a southern continent, did not discouiage another plan being resolved cr, which had been rerommended some tune before. This was no other than finding out a north-west passage, which the fancy of some chimerical pro- jectors had conceived to be a practicable scheme. The dangers which our navigator had twice braved and escaped, would have exempted him from being solicited a third time to venture his person in unknown coun- tries, amongst desert islands, inhospitable climates, and in the midst of savages ; but, on his opinion being asked concerning the person who would be the most proper to execute this design, he once more relinquished the quiets and comforts of domestic life, to engage in scenes of turbulence and confusion, of difficulty and danger, ilis intrepid spirit and inquisitive mind induced him again to offer his services ; and they were accepted with- out hesitation. The manner in which he had deported himself on former occasions left no room to suppose a fitter man could be selected. He pre- pared for his departure with tlie utmost alacrity, and actually sailed on the month of July, 1776. A few months after his departure from England, notwithstanding he w^s Uien absent, the Royal Society voted him Sir Godfrey Copley's gold medal, as a reward for the account which he transmitted to that body, of the method taken to preserve the health of the crew of his ship ; and Sir John Pringle, in an oration pronounced on the 30th of November, observed " how meri- torious that person must appear, who had not only made the most extensive, but the most instructive voyages ; who had not only discovered, but sur- veyed vast tracts of new coasts ; who had dispelled the illusion of a terra australis incognita^ and fixed the bounds of the habitable earth, as well a« those of the navigable ocean, in the southern hemisphere : but that, how- ever ample a field for praise these circumstances would afford, it was a nobler motive that had prompted the Society to notice Captain Cook in the honourable manner which had occasioned his then address." After descant- ing on the means used on the voyage to preserve the lives of the sailors, he concluded his discourse in these terms : " Allow me then, Gentlemen, to deliver this medal, with his unperishing name engraven upon it, into the hands of one who will be happy to receive that trust, and to hear that this respectable body never more cordially, nor more meritoriously, bestowed tliat faithful symbol of their esteem and affection. For if Rome decreed the Civic Crown to him who saved the life of a single citizen, what wreatliv are due to that man, who having himself saved many, perpetuates in your Transactions the means by which Britain may now, on the most distant voyages, save numbers of her intrepid sons, her Mariners ; who, braving I ItU s 4 MEMOIR OP CAPTAIN COOK. every danger, have so liberally contributed to the fame, to the opulence, sod to the maritime empire of their country ?** It will give pain to every sensible mind to reflect, that this honourable testimony to the merit of our gallant commander never came to his know- ledge. While his friends were waiting with the most earnest solicitude for tidings concerning him, and th ■ whole nation expressed an anxious impa- tience to be informed of his success, advice was received from Captain Clerke, in a letter dated at Kamtschatka, the 8th day of June, l^^9 ; stating that Captain Cook was killed on the 14th of February, 1779. Captain Cook was a married man, and left several children behind him. On each of these his majesty settled a pension of £25 per annum, and £200 per annum on his widow. It is a circumstance remarkable, that Captain Coc*k was godfather to his wife ; and at the very time she was christened, had determined, if she grew up, on the union which afterwards took place between them. The constitution of his body was robust, inured to labour, and capable of undergoing the severest hardships. His stomach bore, without diflUculty, the coarsest and most ungrateful food. Indeed, temperance in him was scarcely a virtue ; so great was the indifference with which he submitted to evenr kind of self-deniaL The qualities of his mind were of the same hardy, vigorous kind with those of his body. His understanding was strong and perspicuous. His judgment, in whatever related to the services he was engaged in, quick and sure. His designs were bold and manly ; and both in the conception, and in the mode of execution, bore evident marks of a great original genius. His courage was cool and determined, and accom< panied with an admirable presence of mind in the moment of danger. His manners were plain and unaffected ; but the most distinguishing feature of his character was that unremitting perseverance in the pursuit of his object, which was not only superior to the opposition of dangers and the pressure of hardships, but even exempt from the want of ordinary relaxation. As a navigator, his services were of the most splendid description, and even the meuiod which he discovered and so successfully pursued for pre- serving the lives of seamen, forms a new era in navigation, and will trans- mit his nam;, to the latest posterity as the friend and benefactor of mankind. U ! t ilence, «id lonourable his know- icitude for ous impa- m Captain ine, 1779; 779. ehind him. , and £200 lat Captain christened, I took place md capable t difficulty, n liim was ubmitted to f the same ; was strong vices he was ' ; and both marks of a I and accom. \ anger. His | ig feature of *| f his object, | the pressure | cation. iption, and ued for pre- will trans, mankind. - ''^^'■JMrnbiri^ \ ?»^ 1 -»iM* f) i.' ''*^_ CAPTAIN COOK'S VOYAGES. WisR Nature from this face of ground, Into the deep taught man to find the way ; That in the floods her treasure might be found, To mal( 2 cook's first voyage, 1768 — 1771. was productive of more important results, since it first opened . the Pacific Ocean to our view as a field for political aggrandise- ment and scientific discovery. The war for some time prevented our engaging in the mighty projects which were in embryo, but in 1764, Commodore Byron was sent out, and in the course of his voyage round the globe he advanced to a comparatively high southern latitude, and opened an interesting path for future discovery. The account of his voyage seemed but to kindle new curiosity, and to encourage new hopes ; and within little more than a month after his return. Captain Wallis was sent out in the Dolphin to prosecute the discoveries which Byron had begun. Wallis, after greatly ex- tending the tract of discovery in the South Seas, rehimed safe to England in 1768. Captain Carteret, who had been sent out in the Swallow sloop to accompany Wallis, was separated from him in* the cl urse of the voyage ; he encountered many hardships, l>ut made new discoveries in nigher latitudes, and arrived not in England until the month of March, 1764. Wallis, however, had scarcely returned when it was resolved to send out Lieutenant Cook, not only to prosecute still farther the discoveries already made in the South Seas, but for the benefit of astronomy and the arts dependent upon it, to observe in the latitude of Otaheite an expected t^nsit of the planet Venus over the sun. The Endeavour was fitted up for the expedition, and Mr. (afterwards Sir Joseph) Banks, and Dr. Solander, a Swedish naturalist, at the request of the former, were allowed to accompany Lieutenant James Cook, who was appointed commander. On the 26th of August, 1768, the Endeavour sailed from Plymouth ; on the 12th of September the Islands of Puerto Santa and Madeira were seen, and the next day the vessel was in Funchal Road, whence she sailed on the 19tn. On the 22nd they saw the Islands of Salvages, northward of the Canaries ; on the 23rd the Peak of Tenenffe, 15,400 feet high, was in sights and on the 29th tliey perceived Bona Vista, one of the Cape de Verd Islands lying in latitude, 16 de^. nortli, and longitude, 21 deg. 48 min. west. On the 13th ol November, they made sail for the harbour of Rio de Janeiro. Mr. Hicks, the first lieutenant, was sent before, in the pinnace, to the city, to inform the governor that they put in there for refreshments and water, and to obtain a pilot. Captain Cook went on shore on the 14th, and obtained leave to purchase provisions; he also requested that the gentlemen on-board might remain on-shore whilst they sojourned, and that Mr. Banks might go up the country to collect plants, but these requests were peremptorily refused. Having procured all necessary supplies, they left Rio de Janeiro, on the 8th of December, 1768. On the 14th of Janualy they entered the Strait of Le Maire; but the tide being cook's hrst voyage, 1768 — 1771. 8 against them, they were driven out with great violence, and the waves ran so high, that the ship's bowsprit was frequently under water; at lengtn, however, they got anchorage at the entrance of a little cove, which Captain Cook called St. Vincent's Bay. Mr. Banks and Dr.SoIander set out from the ship on the 16th, with the design of going into the country, and returning in the evening. Having entered a wood, they ascended the hill through a pathless wilderness till the afternoon. The morning had been very fine, but the weather now became cold and disagreeable ; the blasts of wind were very piercing, a shower of snow fell, and Mr. Buchan, one of the draughtsmen, fell into a fit. It was absolutely necessary to stop and kindle a fire, and such as were most fatigued remained to assist him ; but Messrs. Banks, Solander, Green and Monkhouse, proceeded and attained the spot they had in view. The whole party met again at eight in the evening. ^ Dr. Solander having oiiten passed mountains in cold countries, was sensible that extreme cold, when Joined with fatigue^ occasions a drowsiness, that is not easily resisted ; he accordingly entreated his iriendJs to keep in motion, however disagreeable it might be to them } his words were, " Whoever sits down, will sleep ; and whoever sleeps, will wake no more.** Every one seemed accordingly armed with resolution; but on a sudden the cold became so very intense, as to threaten the most direful elfects. It wa/) very remarkable, that Dr. Solander himself, who had so forcibly admonishea his party, should be the first who insisted ujpon being sufiiered to repose. In spite of the most earnest entreaties, he lay down amidst the snow, and it was with great difiiculty they kept him awake. When a black servant was informed, that if he remained there he would soon be frozen to death; he replied, that he was so exhausted with fatigue, that death would be a relief to him. Dr. Solander said he was not unwilling to go, but that he must first take some sleep, notwithstanding what he had before declared to the company. Thus resolve*^ they both sat down, supported by bushes, and in a short time I'ell fast asleep. An advanced party, having kindled a fire about a quarter of a mile farther on the way, Mr. Banks woke the doctor, who had almost lost the use of his limbs, although he had sat down but a few minutes. Every measure taken to relieve the black proved ineffectual ; he remained motionless, and they were obliged to leave him to the care of the other black servant and a sailor, who appeared to have been the least hurt by cold. Mr. Banks and four others went forth at twelve o'clock and met the sailor, with just strength enough to walk ; he was immediately sent to the fire, and they proceeded to seek lor the two others. They i'ound Kichmond, a black servant, upon his legs, but incapable of moving them, the other black was lying senseless upon the ground. All endeavours to bring them to the fire were fruitless, nor was it possible to B2 f i 4 cook's hrst voyage, 1768 — 1771. kindle one upon the spot, on account of the snow that had fallen, and was still falling, so that there was no alternative, but to leave the two unfortunate negroes to their fate, making them a bed of boughs and trees, and covering them very thick with the same. On the 17th in the morning, at day-break, nothing presented itself around but snow, the trees being equally covered with it as the ground. However, about six in the morning they were flat- tered with a dawn of hope of being delivered, by discovering the sun through the clouds, which gradually diminished. Previous to setting out, messengers, who were dispatched to the unhappy negroes, returned with the melancholy news of their death. In about three hours, to their great satisfaction, they found them- selves on the shore, much nearer the ship than their most sanguhve expectations could have flattered them. When they took a retrospect of their former route I'rom the sea, they found, that instead of ascending the hill in a direct line, they had made a circle almost round the country. Captain Cook sailed from Cape Horn, January the 26th. The farthest southern latitude he made was 60 deg. 10 min., by 74 deg. 30 min. west. March the 1st they were in latitude 38 deg. 44 min. south, and longitude 110 deg. 33 min. west, as well by observation as by the log ; which concurrence, after a course of 660 leagues, was judged very singular. On the 4th of April, a servant to Mr. Banks discovered land, three or four leagues distant. It was found to be an island of an oval form, with a lake or lagoon in the centre ; the border of land was in many places low and narrow, especially towards the south, where the beach consisted of a reef of rocks. Captain Cook came within a mile on the north-side, but found no bottom nor anchorage. There appeared along the beach some of the inhabitants, with pikes or poles in their hands, twice the height o( themselves. This island was in latitude 18 deg. south ; lon- fitude 139 deg. 38 min. west, and was named Lagoon Island. *hey saw land again in the afternoon to the north-west, when it appeared a low island covered with wood, in form circular, about a mile in circumference. No inhabitants were visible, though the Endeavour had reached the shore within half a mile. This island, which is distant from that of Lagoon about seven leagues, was named Thrumb Cap. The 5th, continued their course, and about three o'clock discovered land to the west. This was a low island, between ten and twelve leagues in cir- cumference, it resembled in form a bow. This island, from the smoke discovered, appeared to be inhabited, and was named Bow Island. About noon, on the 6th, they saw land again to the west : this seemed divided into t>vo islands, or rather collections of islands, their extent being nearly nine leagues. Some of these were ten miles or more in length, and produced trees of diflerent kinds, among which was the cocoa-nut. Several of the inhabitants I 'f hi cook's first voyage, 1768 — 1771. 5 came out in canoes, and two appeared to have a design ol* coming on board, but stopped at the reef. Next day they dis- covered another island, which they judged to be in compass about five miles. It was very low, with a piece of water in the centre, and appeared to abound in wood and verdure, but no inhabitants were visible, it was called Bird Island, from the number of them flying about. The 8th, saw land to the north. This seemed to be a chain of \o\if islands, of an oval figure, and consisted of coral and sand, with a few clumps of small trees, imd in the middle of it a lagoon. It was, from its appearance, called Chain Island. On the 10th, after a tempestuous night, saw Osnaburgh Island, called by the natives Maite. This island is high and circular, about four miles in circumference, partly naked and rockv, and partly covered with trees. Tlie same day, on looking out for the island to which they were destined, saw land a-head. Next morning it appeared very high and mountainous, and was known to be King George the Third's Island, so named by Captain Wallis, but by the natives called Otaheite. They lay on and on till the 13th, and then entered Port Royal Harbour, anchoring within half a mile of the shore. A great number of natives immediately came off in canoes, bringing with them bananas, cocoa-nuts, bread-fruit, apples, and some hogs, which they bartered with the ship's crew for beads and other trinkets. When the ship was properly secured, the captain went on-«ihore with Mr. Banlcs, Dr. Solander, a party under arms, and an old Indian. They were received by some hundreds of the natives, who were struck with such awe, that the first who approached crept almost upon his hands and knees. He presented them branches of trees, the usual symbol of peace. This was received, on the part of the English, with demonstrations of satisfaction and friendship; and they gathered some, and followed the example of the natives. They were conducted toward the place where the Dolphin had watered. The whole circuit was near four miles, through groves of trees, of cocoa-nuts, and bread-fruit. Beneath were the habitations of the natives, consisting of only a roof, destitute of walls. In this peregrination the gentlemen were not a little disappointed at finding very few fowls or hogs. Several of the chiefs, one of whom was very corpulent, came on board from the other point, on the morning of the 15th^ bringing with them hogs, bread-fruit, and other refreshments. This day the captain, attended by Mr. Banks and others, went on-shore to fix on a proper spot to erect a small fort for their defence. The latter having suspected, from seeing few hogs or poultry in their walks, that they had been driven up the country, it was resolved to penetrate into the woods, some marines and a petty officer being appointed to guard the tent in the interim ; several of the natives accompanied the gentlemen in this excursion. Upon crossing a little river, Mr. Banks perceiving __Jl 6 cook's first VOYAOE, 1768 — 1771. i f •ome ducks, fired, and killed three. The Indians were struck with the utmost terror at this event, which occasioned them to fnll suddenly to the ipfround. as if they had been shot at the same time. Before this party nad gone much farther, they were alarmed b^ the discnarge of two pieces, fired by the tent-guard. Upon their return, it appeared that an Indian had taken an opportunity to snatch away one of the sentinel's muskets; whereupon a young midshipman, very imprudently, ordered the marines to fire, which they did, when several Indians were wounded, but as the criminal did not fall^ they pursued and shot him dead. The fort began to be erected on the 18th; some of the com- pany were employed in throwing up entrenchmcntis. whilst others were employed in cutting fascines and pickets, vt^uich the Indians of their own accord cheerfully assisted in bringing from the woods. This day the natives brought down such quantities of bread-fmit and coco&-nuts, that it was necessary to reject them, and to intimate that the company would not want anjr for two days. Mr. Banks's tent beinggot up, he, for the first time, slept on-shore : and on the 19th, T^bora Tumaida visited Mr. Banks at his tent, and brought with him, besides his wife and family, the materials for erecting a house,- in the neighbourhood of the fort, where he designed to reside. Without the lines a sort of market was established, which was tolerablv well sup- plied. Tubora Tumaida became Mr. Banks's and the other gentlemen's frequent guest; he adopted their manners, and was uie only one of his countrymen who had attempted to use a knife and fork. On the 34th, Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander made an excursion into the country, which they found to be level and fertile for dbout two miles along the shore to the eastward, after which, the hills reached quite to the water's edge, and farther on they ran out into the sea. - On the 25th, several of their knives were missing ; upon which Mr. Banks, who had lost his amon^ the rest, accused Tubora Tumaida with having stolen it, which caused him to be very unhappy, as he happened to be innocent. Mr. Molineux, master of the Endeavour, seeing a woman, whose name was Oberea, he declared she was the person he judged to be the queen of the island, when he came there in the Dolphin : the eyes of all were now fixed on her who had made so oistinguished a figure in the accounts given by the first discoverers of this island. The person of the que 'n was of a large make and tall; she was about forty years of age, her skin white ; her eyes had great expression, and she had been handsome, but her beauty was now upon the decline. She was soon conducted to the ship, and went on-board, accompanied by some of her familv. Manv presents were made her, particularly a child's doll, which seemed the most to engross her attention. Captain Cook cook's first voyage, 1708—1771. f accompanied her on-shore, when she presented him with a hog and some plantains, which were carried to the fort in proces* sion, Oberea and the captain bringing up the rear. The> met Tootahah, who, tiiouj^h not kinj?, seemed to be at this time invested with a sovereign authontv. He immediately became jealous of the queen's having the dioll, which made it necessary to compliment him with one also. On the 5th, Mr. Banks, and Dr. Solander, with the captain, set out in the pinnace, with one of Tootahah 's people: they soon reached Eparre, the place where he dwelt, which was but a few miles to tne west of the tents. Upon their arrival, they found great numbers of people upon the shore waiting for them. They were immediately conducted to the chief, whilst the people shouted round them, Taio Tootahah, " Tootahah is your frietid f they found him sitting under a tree, and some old men standing round him. As soon as he had made signs for them to sit down, he asked for his axe, which Captain Cook presented with a shirt and a broad-cloth garment, with which he seemed greatly pleased. After eating, an entertainment was provided for them^ consisting of wrestling. The^ chief sat at the upper end of the area, witu several of his principal men on each side, by way of judges, from whom the conquerors received applause. Ten or twelve combatants entered the area, and after many simple ceremonies of challenging each other^ they engaged, endeavouring to throw one anotlier by dint of strengtVi ; then seizing hold of each other by the thign, the hand, Uie hair, or the clothes, they grappled without the least art, till one was thrown on his back; this conquest was applauded by sojne words from the old men, and three huzzas. After one engage- ment succeeded another, but if they could not throw each other during the space of a minute, they parted, either by consent, or the intervention of their friends. On the 15th, Mr. Banks discovered that Tubora Tamaida, had stolen some nails. Entertaining a good opinion of this chief, and willing to put his fidelity to the test, several temptatiojn^ were thrown, in his way, amon^ the rest a basket of nails, whic^ proved irresistible. He confessed the fact, and upon Mr. Banks's insisting upon restitution, he declared the nails were at Eparre ; this occasioned high words, and at length the Indian produced one of them. He was promised forgiveness on restoring the rest, but not having resolution to fulfil his engage^ ment, he fled witn his furniture and family before night. Too- tahah sent many messages to request a visit from the captain; declaring he would ackiiowledge the compliment by a present of some hogs. But, Mr. Hicks, the first lieutenant, was sent, in hopes of getting the hogs without the visit. He was received in a very friendly manner, at a place called Tettehah, five nule<3 farther to the westward, where Tootahah had taken up his resi- dence. He brought away one hog only, which had been fi ;, 'l|P 8 cook's PiaST VOYAOl:, 1768—1771. produced immediately Upon his arrival^ with a promise of receiving more the n6xt morning ; but^ when morning came^ he was obliged to depart without them. On the S7th, footahah being removed to a place called AtahouroU; Mr. Banks^ Dr. Solander, Captain Cook, and some others, set out in the pinnace to pay him a visit ; after making presents of a few triflmg articles, they were invited to stay the night. Mr. Banks having accepted of a place in Oberea's canoe left his companions in order to retire to rest. Notwithstanding the care Oberea took of his clothes, by having them in her own custody, they were stolen, with his pistols, powder-horn, and many other things in his pockets. The alarm was given to Tootahah, who slepi in the next canoe, and who went with Oberea in search of the thief, leaving Mr. Banks nearly naked, and his musket Uncharged. They soon retimed, but without success ; Mr. Banks thought proper to put up with the loss for the prepent, and a second time endeavour to sleep. But he had scarcely composed himself, before he heard some music, and perceived lights at a sma)^. distance from shore ; this proved to be a concert, which they call Heiva. As soon as he approached the lights, he found the hut, where Mr. Cook, and three of his associates lay, and began to relate his melancholy tale; but, instead of receiving much comfort from them, he was told that thev had shared the same fate, having lost their stockings and jackets. However, this did not prevent their hearing out the concert, which consisted of drums, flutes, and several voices, after which they retired to rest. Some Indians from a neighbouring island, to which Captain Wallis had given the name of Duke of York's Island, informed them of more than twenty islands in the neighbourhood of Otaheite. They now began to make the necessary preparations for the transit of Venus, and Mr. Cook sent out two parties to make observations from different spots, that in case they failed at Otaheite, they might succeed elsewhere. On the 1st of June, the next Saturday, being the day of the t.*ansit, they sent the long-boat to Eimayo, having on-board Mr. Gore, Mr. Monkhouse, and Mr. Sporing, a friend of Mr. Banks; each furnished with necessary instruments by Mr. Green. In a morning's excursion, Mr. Banks met several of the natives^ who were itinerant musicians^ and the place of the evening's rendezvous being known, all the English gentlemen went thitlier to partake of the diversion. Their mstniments were flutes and drums, and a ^reat number of the Indians were got together i^on the occasion. The drummers sung to the music, and to the astonishment of Mr. Banks and the rest of his companions, they found that they were the chief subject of the minstrels' lays. These songs must, therefore, have been extemporaneous, the rewards whereof were such necessaries as they required. An iron coaUrake for the oven being stolen, in the night of the 14th, cook's nRST VOYAGE. 1768 — 1771. 9 rations )aTties they 1st of ly sent Mr. each itives^ ling's Ihitlier ]s and jether Ind to iiions, lay?. , the An 1 14th, with many other things^ the captain judged it of consequence to put an end to these practices, by making it their common interest to prevent it. He had already given strict orders, that the sentinels should not fire upon them, even if detected in the fact. About twenty-seven of their double canoes were just come in with cargoes of fish, which the captain seized, and then gave notice, that unless the rake, and all the other things which had at different times been stolen, were returned, the vessels should be burnt. He had, indeed, no such design, as will appear by the event. The menace produced no other effect than tne resti- tution of the rake, all the other things remaining in their posses- sion ; at length, the captain thought proper to give up the cargoes, as the innocent natives were in great distress for want of mem ; and at last, to prevent confusion, from the difficulty of ascertaining to whom the different lots belonged, he promised also to release the canoes. On the 19th, while the canoes were detained by the captain, Oberea paid the gentlemen a visit ; she came from Tootahah's palace, in a double canoe, and brought with her a hog, bread- fruit, and other presents, among which was a dog ; but none of the things that had been stolen : these she pleaded had been taken away by her gallant Obadee, for which she had beaten him. She did not, however, seem to think her story deserved credit, but appeared at first much terrified, though she bore her fears with much fortitude, and was desirous of sleeping with her attendants in Mr. Banks's tent; but this being refused, she was obliged to pasc the night in her canoe. The captain decHned accepting of her presents, at which she seemed very sorrowful. The next morning she returned to the fort, and Captain Cook having altered his mind, accepted them. Two of her attendants were *ery earnest in getting themselves hus- bands, in which they succeeded by means of the surgeon and one of the lieutenants. Dogs are esteemed here more delicate than pork, as those bred to be eaten taste no animal food, but live entirely upon vegetables which they are taught to eat. Tupia undertook to kill and dress one, which he did, by making a hole in the ground and baking him. It was agreed by every one to be a very good dish. They were visited on the 21st at the fort by many of the natives, and among the rest Oamo, a chief of several districts on the island, whom they had never before se m, who brought with him a hog. This chief was treated with great respect by the natives, and was accompanied by a boy and a young woman. The boy was carried upon a man's back, though very able to vvalk. Oberea and some other of the Indians went out of the fort to meet them, their heads and bodies being first uncovered as low as the wsiiat. This was considered as a mark of respect not noticed before, but judged it was usually shewn to persons of distinguished rank among them. Oamo entered the tent ; B6 10 COOK^S FIRST VOYAGE, 1768 — 1771. but the young woman, who was about sixteen, could not be pre- vailed upon to accompany him, though she seemed to combat with her curiosity and inclination. ^ Dr. Solander took the youth by the hand, and conducted him in ; but the natives without, who had prevented the girl's entrance, soon found means to get him out again. The curiosity of the gentlemen being excited from these circumstances, they made inquiry who these stran- gers were ; and were informed, that Oamo was Oberea's hus- band, but that by mutual consent they had been for a consider- able time separated; and that the youth and girl were their offspring. The boy was named Terridiri, and was heir-apparent to the sovereignty of the island ; and he was to espouse his sister as soon as he had attained a proper age. The present sovereign being a minor, called Outou, and son of Whappai ; Whappai, Oamo, and Tootahah, were all brothers; Whappai was the Menior, and Oamo the next; wherefore, Whappai having no child but Outou, Terridiri, son of Oamo, was heir to the sove- reignty. To us it will appear singular, that a bov should reign during the life of his father ; but in the island of Otaheite, a boy succeeds to his father's authority and title as soon as he is bom ; when a regent is elected, which office usually falls upon the father, till the boy becomes of age : at this time, however, the election had fallen upon his uncle Tootahah, on account of his warlike exploits. Oamo was very inquisitive with respect to the English, and by his questions he appeared a man of under- standing and penetration. On the 26th of June, the captain set out in the pinnace, ac- companied by Mr. Banks, to circumnavigate the island. They sailed to the eastward, and in the forenoon went on shore, in a part of the island under the government of Ahio, a young chief, who had often visited them at the tents. They landed in a dis- trict which was governed by a chief, named Maraitata, the burying-place of men, and his father was called Pahairede, the stealer of boats. Notwithstanding their names were so ominous, they gave the party a very civil reception, furnished them with )^jrovi8ion8, and sold them a large nog for a hatchet. Towards the southernmost nart of the islanr*. they found a ^ood harbour, formed by a reef; and the circumjacent country is remarkably fruitful. They landed again a little further to the east. Ma- thiabo, the chief, with whom they had no a' aaintance, nor had ever seen before, soon came to them, and supplied tnem with cocoa-nuts and bread-fruit. They were now near the district named Paparra, governed by Oamo and Oberea, where they intended to spend the night. Mr. Banks and his company landed about an hour before it was dark, and found they were both set out to pay a visit at the fort. They, nevertheless, slept at the house of Oberea, which, though not large, was very neat; no inhabitant but her father was now in possession of it, who shewed them much civility. The vray from her houae to the cook's first voyage, 1768 — ^1771. u ac- 1 Moral was by the sea-side, and they observed, in all places as they passed along, a great number of human bones. Inquiry being made into the cause of this, they were informed, thatj about four or five months before Captain Cook's arrival, the inhabitants of Tiarrabou, the peninsula to the south-east, made a descent here, and slew many of the people, whose bones were those that were seen upon the coast ; tliat hereupon Oberea and Oamo, who tiien held the government for his son, had fled and taken refuge in the mountains ; and that the victors destroyed all the houses and pillaged tlie country. Mr. Banks was also informed, that the turkey and goose which he had seen in the district of Mathiabo were among the booty; this afforded a reason for their being found where the Dolphin had little or no correspondence ; and the jaw-bones being mentioned, which had been seen hanging in a house, he was informed that they had likewise been carried off as trophies; the jaw-bones of their enemies being considered by the natives of this island as great a mark of triumph as scalps are by the Indians of -North America. On the 1st of July they retvimed to the fort at Port Royal Harbour; having discovered the island, both peninsulas in- cluded, to be about 100 miles in circumference. They now began to make preparations for their departure ; but, before they set sail, they had another visit frem Oamo, Oberea, and their, son and daughter. The 10th, two marines being missing, an inquiry was made after them^ when the In- dians declared they did not propose returning, having each taken a wife. In consequence of which it was intimated to several of the chiefs who were in the fort with their women, among whom were Tubora Tumaida, Tomio, and Oberea, that they would not be suffered to quit it till tie deserters were produced. Mr. Hicks was immediately dispatched in the long-boat, with several men, for them ; at the same time Captain Cook told Tootahah, that it was incumbent on him to assist them with some of his people, and to give orders, in his name, that the men should be set at liberty, for tliat he should expect him to answer for the event. Tootahah immediately complied, and this party re- covered the men without any opposition. Tupia, a very friendly native, had been prime-minister of Oberea, when she was at the pinnacle of her authority ; he was also the principal priest of the island, and likewise versed in navigation, and was thoroughly acquainted with the number, situation, inhabitants, and produce of the acljacent islands. He had often testified a desire to go with them ; and on the 12th, in the morning, came on-board with a boy about twelve years of age, his servant, named Tayota. The ship now was surrounded by numberless canoes, which contained the inferior natives. They weighed anchor about twelve. Tupia supported himself in this scene with a becoming ) ; ii ; I h p f;!|i I; ' ' IS I i! .It 19 cook's first voyage^ 1768 — 1771. fortitude ; tears flowed from his eyes^ but the effort that he made to conceal them did him additional honour. He went with Mr. Banks to the mast-head^ where he continued waving his hand to the canoes as long as they remained visible. After leaving the island of Otaheite, on the 13th of July, they sailed with a gentle breeze, and were informed by Tupia, that four islands, which he called Huaheine, Ulietea, Otaha, and Bolabola, were at the distance of about one or two days' sail ; and that hogs, fowls, and other refreshments, which haa lately been scarce, were to be got there in abundance. They accord- ingly steered in search of these islands, and, on the 15th, dis- C5overed Huaheine. Several canoes immediately put off, and the King of Huaheine and his queen went on-board. Astonishment was testified by their majesties at every thing shewn them. The former, whose name was Oree, made a proposal to exchange names with Captain Cook, which was readily assented to. The custon^ of exchanging names is very prevalent in this island, and is considered as a mark of friendship.^ Tliey found the people here nearly similar to those of Otaheite in almost every circumstance, except, if Tuph • «tught be credited, they were not addicted to thieving. Tlie 19th, they carried some hatchets with them, with which they procured three very large hogs. As they proposed to sail in the afternoon, the king, accompanied by some others of the natives, came on-board to take his leave, when his majesty received from Captain Cook a small pewter plate, with an inscription. This Island is situated in the latitude of 16 deg. 43 min. south, longitude 150 deg, 52 min. west, distant from Otaheite about thirty leagues, and is about twenty miles in circumference. ^ From Huaheine they sailed to Ulietea. Next morning, by the direction of Tupia, they anchored in a bay formed by a reef, on the north side of the island. The captain, Mr. Banks, and some other gentlemen, now went on-shore, accompanied by Tupia ; after which Captain Cook took possession of this and the adjacent islands in the name of the king of Great Britain. On the 25th they were within a league or two of Otaha. This island appeared to be more barren than Ulietea, but the produce was much the same. The natives paid them the compliment they used towards their own kings, by uncovering their shoulders, and wrap{)ing their clothes round their bodies, taking care no one should omit doing the same. In the afternoon of the 31st, finding themselves to windward * This custom is not pocaliar to this island ; it is equally common to the inhabitants of St. Johanna, who bog English names of the sailors! who touch at the island, and of course, names of the greatest eminence are freely given by our tars. Thus wheo they come to visit the ships which remain off the island, it has happened that Charles James Fox has humbly solicited the washing of linen, and the Prince of Wales appeared as a green grocer, requesting a preference for his vegetables. Mr. Pitt has been detected stealing a blanket, while the Duke of Bedford had been known to beg for an old nail. Editor. cook's nRST VOYAGE, 1768 — 1771. 18 of some harbours on the west side of the Ulietea, they intended to put into one, in order to stop a leak which they had sprung in the powder-room, and to take in some additional ballast. On the 5th of August, some hogs and fowls, several pieces of cloth, many of them fifty or sixty yards in length, together with a quantity of plantains and cocoa-nuts, were sent to Captain GDok as presentjs, from the Earee rahie of the island of Bolabola, accompanied with a message, that he was then on the island, and intended waiting on the captain the next day. Next day he. did not visit them agreeable to promise. After dinner, they set out to pay the king a visit on-shore, as he did not think proper to come on board. As this man was the Earee rahie of the Bolabola men, who had conquered this, and were the dread of all the neighbouring islands, they were disappointed instead of finding a vigorous, enterprising young chief, to see a poor, dc- crepid old man, half-blind, and sihking^ under the weight of age and infirmities. He received them without either that state or ceremony which they had hitherto met with among the- other chiefs. They did not go on-shore at Bolabola ; but, after giving the general name of the Society Islands to the island of Huaheine, Ulietea, Bolabola, Otaha, and Maurua, which lie between the latitude of 16 deg. 10 min. and 16 deg. 55 miii. south, they pursued their course, standing southwardly for an island, to which they were directed by Tupia, at above a 100 leagues distance, which they discovered on Sunday the 13tli, and were informed by him that it was called Ohitezoa. On the 17th of October, Captain Cook gave the" name of Cape Turn-Again to a head-land, in latitude 40 deg. 34 min. south, longitude 182 deg. 55 min. west. Before the Endeavour touched at New Zealand, which this was, it was not certainly known whether it was an island or part of the continent. On the 20th, anchored in a bay, about two leagues north of Gable End Foreland. Two chiefs, who came on-board, received pre- sents of linen, which gave much satisfaction ; but they d'd not hold spike-nails in such estimation as the inhabitants of some of the islands. Sailing to the northward, they fell in with a small island named East Island. When the Endeavour had doubled the Cape many villages appeared in view, and the adjacent land appeared cultivated. In the evening of the 30th, Lieutenant Hicks discovered a bay, to which his name was given. Next morning, about nine, several canoes came oflF from shore, with a number of armed men, who appeared to have hostile intentions. Before these had reached the ship, another canoe, larger than any that had yet been seen, full of armed Indians, came off, and made towards the Endeavour with great expedition. The captain now Judging it expedient to prevent, if possible, their attacking him, ordered a gun to be fired over their heads. In so^arching for a convenient anchoring-place, the captain saw a village upon a high point, near the head of the bay, fortified I' l; f^ •jl \\m2 14 cook's first voyages, 1768 — 1771. like some others already seen before. Having met with a con- venient place near where the Endeavour lay, he returned to the ship, and sailed to that spot, where he cast anchor. Two fortified villages being descried, the captain, with Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, went to examine them : the smallest was romantically situated upon a rock, which was arched ; this village did not consist of above five or six houses, fenced round, ^fhere was but one path, very narrow, that conducted to it. The gentlemen were invited by the inhabitants to pay them a visit, but not having time to spare, took another route, after making presents to the females. A body of men, women, and children, now approached the gentlemen, who proved to be the inhabitants of another town, which they proposed visiting. They gave many testimonials of their friendly dispositions, among others they uttered the word Heromai, which, according to Tupia's inter- pretation, implied peace, and appeared much satisfied, when informed the gentlemen intended visiting their habitations. Their town Was named Wharretouwa ; it is seated on a point of land over the sea, on the north-side of the bay ; it was paled round, and defended by a double ditch. Within the ditch a stage is erected, for the purpose of defending the place in case of an attack : near this stage, which they called Forava, quantities of darts, and stones are deposited, to be in readiness to repel the assailants. There is another stage to command the path that leads to the town, and there are also some outworks. Upon the whole, the place seemed calculated to hold out a considerable time against an enemy armed with no other weapons than those of the inhabitants. It appeared, however deficient ip water for a siege. They eat, instead of bread, fern-root, which was here in great plenty, with dried fish. Very little land is here cultivated, sweet potatoes and yams being the only vegetables they found. There are two rocks near the foot of this fortifica- tio«, both separated from the maiu-land ; they are very small, nevertheless they are not without dwelling-houses and little fortifications. They threw stones in their engagements with their hands, being destitute of a sling; and those and lances are their only missile weapons ; they have besides the pattoo-pattoo, a, club about five feet m length, and another shorter. They sailed from this bay, after taking possession of it in the name of the king of Great Britain, on the 15th of November. On the the 26th, Captain Cook continued his course along- diore to the north. Two canoes came up, and some of the Indians came on-board, when they trafficked very fairly. Two larger canoes soon after followed, and, coming up, the people in them hailed the others, when they conferred together, and afterwards came alongside of the ship. The last two canoes were finely ornamented with carving, and the people, who appeared to be of higher rank, were armed with various weapons ; they held •in high estimation their pattoo-pattoos, made of stone and whale- 1 i a con- i to the ortified indDr. itically did not ;re was itlemen 3ut not resents a, now ants of B many •s they s inter- , when I. Their of land I round; stage is e of an itities of ijpel the ath that |pon the derable us than [ces are [•pattoo, sailed of the along- [ndians larger them Irwards finely to be sy held Iwhale- cook's first voyage, 1768 — 1771. 1& bone, and they had ribs of whale, with ornaments of dog*s hair, which were very curious. These people were of a darker complexion than those to the southward, and their faces were stained blacker with what thev call Amoco ; and their thighs were striped with it, very small intersiices of the flesh being left visible. '^Though they all used the black Amoco, they applied it to different parts, and in various forms. Most of them had the figure of volutes on their lips, and one woman in particular was curiously marked upon various parts of her body. These Indians seemed the superiors of the others, they were nevertheless not free from the vice of pilfering ; for one having agreed to barter a weapon for a pieces of cloth , he was no sooner in possession of the cloth than he paddled away without paying the price of it ; but a musket being fired, he came back and returned the cloth. All the canoes then returned ashore. For several days the vessel lost ground. On the 29th, having weathered Cape Bret, they bore away to leeward, and got into a large bay, where they anchored on the south-west side of several islands ; after which the ship was surrounded by thirty- three large canoes, containing near three hundred Indians, all armed. Some were admitted on-board, and Captain Cook gave a piece of broad-cloth to one of the chiefs, and some small presents to the others. They traded peaceably for some time, being terrified at the fire-arms, the effect of which they were not unacquainted with ; but, whilst the captain was at dinner, on a signal given by one of the chiefs, all the Indians quitted tfie ship, and attempted to tow away the buoy ; a musket was now fired over them, but it produced no effect ; a small shot was then fired, but did not reach them. A musket, loaded with ball, was, therefore, ordered to be fired, and Otegoowgoow (son of one of the chiefs) was wounded in the thigh, which induced them immediately to throw the buoy overboard. To complete their confusion, a round shot was fired, which reached the shore, and as soon as they landed they ran in search of it. On the 5th they weighed anchor. The bay which they had left was called the Bay of Islands, on account of the number it contains. The captain named another large inlet Queen Char- lotte's Sound, and took possession of it in the name and for the use of his majesty, when a bottle of wine was drank to the queen's health. On the 13th of March discovered a bay, which Ca{)tain Cook called Dusky-Bay; and it is remarkable for having five, high peaked rocks, lying off it, which look like the thumb and four fingers of a man's hand; whence it was denomi- nated Point Five Fingers. It was now resolved to return by the East Indies, and with that view to steer for the east coast of New Holland, and then follow the direction of that coast to the nprth- ward. They sailed March 31, and taking their departure from an eastern point, called it Cape Farewell. The bay from which 16 cook's hrst voyage, 1768—1771. i they sailed was named Admiralty Bay, and the two capes thereof Cape Stephens and Cape Jackson, the names of the secretaries to the Admiralty at that time. The men of this country are as large as the largest Europeans. Their complexion is brown, but little more so than that of the Spaniard. Fhey are full of flesh, but not lazy and luxurious : and are stout and well shaped. The women's voices are singularly soft, which, as the dress of both sexes is similar, chiefly distinguishes them from the men. The latter are active in a high degree, their hair black, their teeth white and even. The features of both sexes are regular ; they eiy'oy perfect health, and live to a very advanced age. They are of the gentlest dispositions, and treat each other with the utmost kindness : but thev are perpetually at war, every little district being at enmity with all the rest. 1 his is owing, most probably, to the want of food in suflicient quantities, at certain times. They have neither black cattle, sheep, hogs, nor ^oats ; so that their chief food being flsh, and that not at all times to be obtained, they are in danger of dying through hunger. They have a few, and but a very few, dogs ; and when no fish is to be got, they have only vegetables, such as jsuna and potatoes, to feed on ; and if, by any accident, these fail them, their situation must be deplorable. This will account for their shocking custom of eating the bodies which are slain in battle. The canoes of this country are long and narrow. The large sort seem built for war, and will hold from thirty to 100 men. Qne of these, at Tolaga, measured nearly seventy feet in length, six in width, four in depth, sharp at the bottom, and consisted of three lengths, about two or three inches thick, and tied firmly together with strong plaiting : each side was formed of one entire plank, about twelve inches broad, and about an inch and a half thick, which were fitted to the bottom part with equal strength and ingenuity. Some few, at Mercury Bay and Opoorage, are made of one trunk of wood, hollowed by fire ; but by far the greater part are built after the plan above described. The smaller boats, used in fishing, are adorned at head and stern with the figure of a man, the eyes of which are composed of the white shells of sea-ears, a tongue of enormous size is thrust out of the mouth, and the whole face is a picture of the most absolute deformity. The grander canoes, which are intended for war, are ornamented with open-work, and covered with fringes of black feathers, which give the whole an air of perfect elegance : the side-boards, which are carved in a rude manner, are embellished with tufts of white feathers. They ate rowed with a kind of paddle, between five and six feet in length, the blade of which is a long oval, gradually decreasing till it reaches the handle ; and the velocity with which they row with these paddles is surprising. Their sails are composed of a kind of ipat or netting; extended between two upright poles, one of japes thereof le secretaries t Europeans, n that of the ■curious : and re singularly lilar, chiefly re active in ; and even, irfect healthy the gentlest ndness: but »g at enmity I the want of lave neither r chief food , they are in !W, and but y nave only ; and if, by deplorable, the bodies , The Iarg« » 100 men. feet in )ttom, and thick, and as formed about an part with Bay and by fire ; m above domed at ivhich are normous ucture of hich are covered n air of a rude 'hey aie length, g till it •w with a kind one of C00K*S FIRST VOYAGE, 1768 — 1771. If which is fixed on each side. Two ropes, fastened to the top of of each pole, serve instead of sheets. The vessels are steered by two men, having each a paddle, and sitting in the stem ; but tliev can only sail before the wind, in which direction they move with considerable swiftness. Their tillage ol the ground is excellent, owing to the necessitjr of cultivating or running the risk of starving. At Tegadoo their crops were just put into the ground and the surface of the field was as smooth as a garden, the roots were ranged in regular lines, and to every root there remained a hillock. A long, narrow stake, sharpened to an edge at the bottom, with a piece fixed across a little above it, for tne convenience of driving it into the ground with the foot, supplies the place both of plough and spade. The soil being light, their work is not very laborious, find with this instrument alone they will turn up ground of six or seven acres in extent. Their warlike weapons are spears, darts, battle-axes, and the pattoo-pattoo. The spear, which is pointed at each end, is about sixteen feet in length, and held in the middle. Whether they fight in boats or on-shore the battle is hand to hand ; they trust chiefly in the pattoo-pattoo, which is fastened to the wrist, by means of a strong strap, that it may not be wrenched out of the hand. These are worn in the girdles of people of a superior rank, as a military ornament. They have a kind of staflF of dis- tinction, which is carried by the principal warriors : it is formed of a whale's rib, is quite white, and adorned with carvings, feathers, and the hair of their dogs ; and they sometimes carried a stick six feet long, inlaid with shells, and otherwise adorned like the military stan. This honourable mark of distinction was commonly borne by the old men. When they came to attack the English, there was usually one or more thus distinguished in each canoe. It was their custom to stop at about fifty or sixt^ yards distance from the ship, when the chief, arising from his seat, and putting on a garment of dog's skin, used to direct them hovy to proceed. When they were too far from the ship to reach it either with stone or lance, they cried out, Haromaiy haromait harre uta a patoo-patoo oge.—^* Come to us, come on-shore, and we will kill you all with our pattoo-pattoos." During these menaces they approached the ship, till they came alongside^ talking peaceably at intervals, and answering whatever ques- tions were asked. Then again their threats were renewed,, till, imagining the sailors were afraid of them, they began the w^ar-song and dance — an engagement always followed, and sometimes continued till the firing of small shot repulsed them ; at others, only till they had satiated their vengeance by throwing a few stones on-board the ship. In the war-dance their motions are numerous, their limbs are distorted, and their faces are agitated. They accompany this dance with a song, which is sung m concert ; every strain ending m i I'M . li n 18 cook's first VOYAOE, 1768 — 1771. with a loud and deep sigh. There is an activity and vigour in their dancing which is truly admirable ; and their idea of keep- ing time in music is such, that sixty or eighty paddles will strike at once against the sides of their boats, and make only one report. Thev fortify all their hippahs, or towns, of which there are several between the Bay of rlenty and Queen Charlotte's Sound. In these the inhabitants of those parts constantly reside ; but near Tolaga, Tegadoo, Hawk's Bay, and Poverty Bay, there are no towns, only single houses at a considerable distance apart. On die sides of the hills were erected long stages, supplied with darts and stones, which were thought to be retreats in time of battle, and on which, from their elevated situation, they can combat the enemy with these weapons to great advantage. In these repositories they store their dried fish and fern-roots. : Thoy sailed from Cape Farewell on the 31st of March, 1770. On tlie 19th, they discovered land four or five leagues distant ; the southernmost part of which was called Point Hicks, in com- pliment to Mr. Hicks, the first lieutenant, who made the discovery. Intending to land, they took Tupia with them; and had no sooner come near the shore, than tivo men advanced as if to dispute their setting foot on-shore. Thejjr were each armed with different wea- pons. They called aloud^ m a harsh tone, toarra warra wai, the meaning of which Tupia did not understand. The captain threw ^lem beads, nails, and other trifles, which they took up, and seemed to be delighted with. He then made signs that he wanted water, and used every possible means to convince them that no injury was mtended. Tney made signs to the boat's crew to land, on which liiey put the boat in ; but had no sooner done so, than the two Indians came again to oppose them. One of them then threw a stone at the boat^ on which the captain ordered a musket loaded with small shot to be fired, which, wounding the eldest on the legs, he retired hastily to one of their houses which stood at some little distance. The people in the boats landed, imagining that the wound which this man had received would put an end to the contest; in this, however, tliey were mistaken, for he immedi- ately returned, with a kind of shield, of an oval figure, painted white in the middle, with two holes in it to see through. They advanced vnth great intrepidity, and both discharged their lances at the boat's crew, but did not wound any one. Another musket was now fired, on which they threw another lance, and then took to their heels. The crew now went up to the huts, in one of which they found children, who had secreted themselves behind some bark. They looked at them, but without their knowing they had been seen ; and, having thrown some pieces of cloth, ribands, beads, and other things into the hut, took several of their lances, and re-embarked in the boat. The name of Botany Bay was given to this place, from the large number of plants oollected by Messrs. Banks and Solander.* •• On the discovery of Botany Bay, it suggested itself as a good place for founding a cook's first voyage, 1768 — 1771. 19 vigour in oF keep- ^U strike ne report, there are e's Sound. ; but near ere are no part. On plied with in time of , they can ntage. In ots. arch, 1770. es distant; ks, in com- s discovery. 1 no sooner ispute their iferent wea- rra wai, the ptain threw and seemed .nted water, o injury was 1, on which han the two hen threw a isket loaded on the legs, ' some little ig that the , end to the |he immedi- ire, painted agh. They Itheir lances :her musket then took , in one of ives behind ir knowing iS of cloth, several ot of Botany r of plants 1 for founding a They sailed hence the 6th of May, 1770 ; at noon were off a harbour which was called Port Jackson, and in the evening near a bay, to which they gave the name of Broken Bay. On the 10th parsed a low rocky point, which was named Point Stephens, near which was an inlet, denominated Port Stephens. Coasting this shore till the 10th of June, an accident had nearly terminated their voyage fatally. The ship struck on a rock in the night, at some distance hrom the land, and made so much water as to threaten to sink every moment, which was only prevented by great exertions and the favour of providence, for nothing else could have saved them. After some little examina- tion, they found a small harbour to look at the chip's bottom, and tiiere found, that the only thing which prevented her from sinking^ was a large piece of a rock, broken oil and sticking in the largest hole, which impeded the entrance of the water. Here they i)ro- cured some refreshments, landed the sick and stores, made a variety of excursions by land and water to the neighbouring places, and^ for the first time, saw the animal now known as the kangaroo. Three Indians visited Tupia's tent on the 12th of July, and after remaining some time^ one of them went for two others whom he introduced by name. Some fish was offered, but they seemed not much to regard it, and, after eating a little, gave the remainder to Mr. Banks's dog. Some ribands given them^ to which medals were suspended round their necks, were so changed by smoke that it was difficult to judge what colour they had been ; and the smoke had made their skins look darker than tiieir natural colour ; from whence it was thought that they slept ciose to their fires, as a preventive against the sting of the mus- qnitoes. Both the strangers had bones through tlieir noses, and a piece of bark tied over the forehead ; and one had an ornament of strings round his arm, and an elegant necklace made of shells. Their canoe was about ten feet long, and calculated to hold four persons, and when in shallow water they moved it by means of poles. Their lances had only a single point, and some of them were barbed with fish-bones. On the 14th, Mr. Gore shot one oi' the mouse-coloured animals above-mentioned. It chanced to be ayoung one, weighing not more than thirty-eight pounds ; but ' when full grown, they are as large as a sheep. The skin of this beast is covered with short fur, and is of a dark mouse-colour : the head and ears are somewhat like those of a hare: this animal was dressed for dinner, and proved fine eating. The ship's crew fed on turtle almost every day, which were finer than those eaten in England, owing to their being killed before their I natural fat was wasted, and their juices changed. They sailed hence on the 13th of August, 1770, and got through e«>lony with convicts, and it was determined to send some out. The first convicts that jailed, arrived on the 20th of January, 1/88, with Governor Philip, who laid tlie fuuiidation of a settlement, which, now iiichiding Van Dieman*8 Lfnd, contains an European population of 42,000 per8ons....EDiTOR. l!li I '11 I ,1 ■'■f I' •4 1 ii 1 I, '•ts^ so cook's first voyage, 1768 — 1771. one of the channels in the reef; hapny to be once more in an open sea, after havinjy^ been surrniuHied by dreadful shoals and rocks for nearly three months, durin;( all which run they had been obliged to keep sounding without the intermission of a single minute ; a circumstance which, it is supposed, never happened to any ship but the Endeavour. On the 1 4th, steered a westerly course to get sight of the land, that a passage between that land and New Guinea might not be missed, if there was any such passage. This day the boats went out to Hsh, and met with great success, particularly in catching cockles, some of which were of such an amazing size, as to require the strength of two men to move them. Previous to their leaving. Captain Cook displayed the English colours, and took possession of all the eastern coast of the country, from the 38th degree of south latitude to the present sjiot, by the name of New South Wales, for his sovereign the king of Great Britain ; upon which tliree vollies of small arms were fired, and answered by an equal number from the Endea- vour. They were now at the northern extremity of New Holland, and had the satisfaction of viewing the open sea to the westward. The north-east entrance of the passage is formed by the mam land of New Holland, and by a number of islands, which took the name of the Prince of Wales's Islands, and which Captain Cook imagines may reach to New Guinea. To the passage sailed through Captain Cook gave the name of Endeavour Straits. New South Wales is a much larger country than any hitherto known, not deemed a continent, being larger than all Europe ; which was proved by the Endeavour having coasted more than tvw thousand miles, even if her tract was reduced to a straight line. It did not appear much inhabited: not above thirty persons being ever seen together but once, when those of both sexes and all ages got together on a rock off Botany Bay to view the ship. The men are well made, of the miJ ''e size, and active in a high degree ; but their voices are soft even to effeminacy. Their colour is chocolate, but so covered with dirt, as to look almost as black as negkoes. The women were seen only at a distance, as the men constantly left them behind. The chief ornament of these people is the ?)one thrust through the nose, which the sailors whimsicallv termed their sprit-sail-yard: but, besides this, they wore necklaces formed of snells, a small cord tied twice or thrice round the arm, between the elbow and the shoulder, and a string of plaited human hair round the waist Their huts are built with small rods, the two ends of which were fixed into the ground, ao as to form the figure of an oven, and covered with pieces of bark and palm-leaves. The door, which is only high enough to sit upright in, is opposite to the fire-place ; they sleep with their heels turned up towards their heads, and even in this posture the but will not liold more than four people. They feed on the kangaroo, on several kinds of birds, on yams, ana various kinds ^t^ cook's FIRST VOYAGE, 1768—1771. 91 more in an shoals and ey had been of a single r happened d a westerly en that land s any such d met with ne of which ngth of two the English oast of the the present tvereign the small arms the Endea< ;w Holland, e westward. t)y the mam ich took the iptain Cook isa^e sailed traits. Lny hitherto ill Europe ; >re than tvv» :raight line. ty persons 1 sexes and w the ship. in a high heir colour st as black ce, as the nt of these the sailors this, they le or thrice d a string built with round, go [es of bark gh to sit ith their isture the d on the us kinds of fruit ; but the principal article of subsistence is fish. Tlienr method of producing fire is singular ; having wrought one end of a stick into an obtuse point, they place this point upon a piece of dry wood, and turning the upright stick very fast backward and forward between their handis, the tire is soon produced. They make use of spears or lances ; but these are very dif- ferently constructed: those seen in the southern parts of tlua country had four prongs, pointed with bone, and barbed ; those in the northern parts have only one point : the shafts of different lengths, from eight to fourteen feet, are made of the stalk of a plant not unlike a bulrush, and consists of several joints let into each other, and tied together. The shields they use are made ai the bark of trees, of about eighteen inches broad and three feet long. Many trees were seen from whence the bark had been taken, and others on which the shields were cut out, but not taken away. The canoes are formed by hollowing out the trunk of a tree; and it was conjectured, that this operation must have been performed by tire, as they did not appear to have any instrument projjcr for the purpose. The canoes are in length about fourteen feet, and so narrow that they would be frequently averse-;, but are provided %vith outriggers. The natives row them with paddles, using both hands in that employntient. The ships now held a northward course, within sight of land, tiU the 3d of September. On the 6th, passed two small islands ; on the 9th, they saw what had the appearance of land, and the next morning were convinced it was 1 imor Laoet. On the 16th, they had sight of the little island called Rotte ; and the same day saw the island of Savu,at a distance to the southward of Timor, where- liaving obtained necessary refreshments. Captain Cook prepared l^ain for sailing. Savu is situated in 10 deg. 35 min. south latitude, and 237 deg. SO min. west longitude, and has hitherto been very little known, ©r very imperfectly described. Its length is between twenty and thirty miles. The harbour in which the ship lay was called Seba^ ^•om a district of the country so denominated ; and there are two other bays on different parts of the island. The natives are rather below the middle stature, their hair black tnd straight, and persons of all ranks, as well those that are exposed to the weather as those that are not, having one general complexion, which is dark brown. The men are well-formed and sprightly, and their features differ much from each other: the ivomen, on the contrary, have all one set of features, and are very fhort and broad built. The dress of the former consists of two )ieces of cotton cloth, one of which is bound round the middle^ tnd the lower edge being drawn pretty tight between the le,vn country, he requested per- mission to follow the fashion ; this request being readilv complied Avith, a person was dispatched to the ship for some South Sea cloth, i with which he soon clothed himself in the dress of the inliabitants ofOtaheite. After httle more than a week, the ill effetta of the climate began to be severely felt. Dr. Solander and Mr. Banks were ii'disposed with fevers ; Mr. Banks's two servants were exceedingly ill ; the Indian boy, Tayota, had an inflammation on liis lungs; and Tupia was so bad, that his life was despaired of. Tayota paid the debt of nature on the 9th of tliis month : and poor Tupia fell a victim to the ravages of his disorder, and to ms grief for the deceased Tayota. When the latter was first seized with the fatal disorder, he seemed sensible of his approaching end, and fre- quently said to those about him, Tyau mete, " My friends, I am dying:" he was very tractable, and took any medicines that were offered to him ; they were both buried in the island of Edam. Since the arrival of the ship, every person belonging to her had beeri ill, except the sail-maker, who was more than seventy years old ; yet this man got drunk everv day while they remained there. The Endeavour buried seven of her people — Tupia and his boy, three of the sailors, the servant of Mr. Green, the astronomer, and the surgeon ; and, at the time of the vessel's sailing, forty of the crew were sick, and the rest so enfeebled by their late illness as to be scarcely able to do their duty. The tovm of Batavia is situated m 6 deg. 10 min. south latitude, and 106 deg. BO min. east longitude. It j^is buiU on the bank of i large bay, something more than twenty miles from the Suaiil; of Sunda, on the north side of the island of Java, in low, boggy ground. Several small rivers, which rise forty miles up th« country, in the mountains of B^aeuen Berg, discharge themselvf a into the sea at this place, having first intersected the town in dif- ferent directions. There are wide canals of nearly stagnated water in almost every street, and as the banks of these canals are planted >vith rows of trees, the effect is very agreeable ; but they combine to render the air pestilential. The method of building their houses seems to have been taught i them by the climate. On the ground-floor there is no room but a ' large hall, a corner of which is parted off for the transa tion of I business ; the hall has two doors, which are comi^only left open, I and are opposite each other, so that the air passes freely through % the room, in the middle of which there is a court, whicn at once 94 cook's first voyage, 1768—1771. ,:.■•' nv.'' increases the draft of air andaifords light to the hall; the stairs, which are at one corner, lead to large and lofty apartments above. The female slaves are not permitted to sit in any place, but in the alcove formed by the court ; and this is the usual dining-place of the family. llie environs of the town have a very pleasing appearance, and would, in almost any other country, be an enviable situation. Grardens and houses occupy the country for several miles. For the space of more than thirty miles around the land is totally flat, except in two places, on one of which the governor's coun- trj-^-seat is built, and on the other they hold a large market ; but neither of these places are higher than ten yards from the level of the plain. At forty miles from the town, the land rises into hills, and the air is purified in a great degree ; to this distance invalids are sent by their physicians, when every other prospect of recovery has failed, and the experiment succeeds in alniost every instance ; but they no sooner return to town, than their former disorders recur. The fniits of this countiy are near forty in number, and of each of these there are several species. Pine apytles ^row in such abundance that they may be purchased, at tha '^ir^- rid, for the value of an English farthing. The Batavians strew an immense number of flowers about their houses, and are almost always burning some aromatic woods and gums, flowers of this country are very numerous, totally unknown in England. The Island of Java produces goats, sheep, hogs, buffaloes, and horses. The qu-mtity of fish taken is astonishingly great, and all the kinds are fine food, except a few which are very scarce ; yet such is the pride of the inhabitants, that the rarer sorts are sold at high rates, while those that are plentiful are sold for a mere trifle, nor are they eaten but by the slaves. There is abundance of poultry, as excellent of their kinds as those of Engiiind: turkies are immoderately dear, and pigeons not rns}f;!i leas so ; but geese, ducks, and fine large fowls are altogether a « ; 'i^ '» p . On the 27th of December, 1770, the Endeavour left th : a of Batavia, and, as many of the ship's crew, who had been v w ill while at Batavia, had now become much Avorse, the vessel w.)s brought to an anchor in the afternoon of the 6th near Prince's Island. A stay of ten days occurred here, during which they purchased vegetables of various kinds, fowls, deer, turtle ; tlie anchor was weighed and the vessel once more put to sea. After a passage in which they lost twenty-three more ofiicers and men, the ship was brought to an anchor off the Cape of Good Hope, on the 15th of March, 1771. The captain "paired instantly to the governor, who said, that such refreshmc !•» i\^ the country supplied should be cheerfully granted him ; on -v adi a house was hired for the sick, who were to have board and lodging for two shillings a-day each person. The sweet-scented many of which are all; the stairs, irtments above, lace, but in the dining-place of jpearance, and iable situation, ral miles. For land is totally vernor's coun- ) market; but irds from the the land rises D this distance ler prospect of 1 alniost every n their former r, and of each ^row in such rid, for the v^ an immense Imost always iweet-scented of vrhich are mffaloes, and ?ly great, and very scarce ; rer sorts are re sold for a s. There is as those of »ns not :oviJc!i thers'^ , 'i^'Ao leftth rzia id been v vy le vessel w.il lear Prince's : which they , turtle ; tiie sea. nore officers the Cape of ain v.'paired nc- 1^ ^8 the on V *ich a board and ^""•'•^ ™'T VOVACK, ,7C8-,;7I tape Town consisf., «^- i 25 made only a^ nno ^o !• T V^' excellent, but fh« „^**^*^e- Ifte ^ye^gh upward nf i ^ "'^"'^ extraordinary sJyi !l ^^ %»«r'and. weir as oHhe ov • "^^^^^ P"""ds ; the 'Lat n/??^^ ^^ ^^"^^^ hares, altoge"^,er lik^^h '^* *^^^ «««h. S "ounh' ^°^^'^ ^"^ «l.oie 'is Sed ?, totfr™!!" \«ff«'«K tUSr"""!'' square s fenced in K ^^''^^^s by the form of if» ,S!ii: ™*" •' "»« , The native inhabitant, nf^^f^^ '" ^^^ cabinets of fhi • """^ 96 cook's first voyage, 1768 — 1771. barefooted : both sexes adorn themselves with bracelets and neck- laces made of beads. None of these people reside at a less distance than four days' journey from Cape Town, except a jrumber of the poorer sort, who look after the cattle belonging to the Dutch fanners, and are employed in various other menial offices. Most of the Hottentots speak the Dutch language, without any thing remarkable in their manner ; yet, when they converse in their native language, they frequently stop, and make a clucking with their tongues, which has a most smgular and ridiculous effect to the ears of a stranger ; and, exclusive of this clucking, their language itself is scarcely sounded articulately. They are modest to the utmost degree, and though fond of sing- ing and dancing, can hardly be prevailed on to divert them- selves with their favourite amusements before strangers : both their singing and dancing are alternately quick and slow in the utmost extreme. Some understand the art of smelting and 'preparing copper, with which the^ make plates, and wear them s» ^heir foreheads as an article of nnery. They are also capable >aking knives, superior to those they can purchase of the i> . ch, from whom they procure the iron. They are so dexterous in throwing stones, that they will hit a mark not larger than a crown -piece, at the distance of a hundred yards. They are likewise expert in the use of arrows, and of a lance called an assagay, the points of which they poison, sometimes with the venom of a serpent, and sometimes with the juice of particular herbs, so that a wound received from either is almost always mortal. Quitting the Cape they came to an anchor off the Island of St. Helena, May Ist, and on the 4th, the Elndeavour sailed from the road of St. Helena, together with the Portland man of wm and several sail of Indiamen. On the 23rd, lost sight of;^all the ships in company, and in the afternoon of the same day, Mr. Hicks, the first lieutenant, died of a consumption, with which he had been afilicted during the whole voyage. No occurrence worth recording happened from this time till the ship came to anchor in the Downs, on the l'2th of June following, when Captain Cook and his companions landed. )i7 9 and neck- le at a less 1, except a lelonging to ither menial 1 language, , when they f stop, and ost singular lusive of this articulately, bnd of sing- iivert them- ngers: both 1 slow in the nelting and d wear them also capable chase of the they will hit istance of a ise of arrows, if which they id sometimes eceived from the Island of sailed from 1 man of ww y, and in the itenant, dietl d during the ipened from on the 13th companions t COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE, 1772—1775. The talents of Captain Cook, and the great skill and per- severance displayed in his first voyage, pointed him out as the fittest person to prosecute maritime discovery, and he was soon called upon to conduct a new expedition, to explore the Southern Hemisphere, which had hitherto been considered by the ablest geographers as containing another continent. In order to deter- mine this matter, it was resolved again to send Captain Cook out; but the object of his voyage was not limited to settling this question, but to extend the geography of the globe as much a^ possible. l\vo ships were fitted out; and, that nothing might be omitted which could facilitate the enterprise, they were fur- nished with every requisite which a liberal attention to the health and comfort of the crews could devise. These vessels were built on a particular construction, and were purchased of Captain Hammond, of Hull. The largest was named the Resolution, of four nundred and sixty-two tons burthen. Captain James Cook, commander ; tlie other was named the Adventure, of three hundred and sixty-six tons, commanded by Captain Tobias Furneaux, who had sailed with Captain Wallis, and had been promoted from the rank of lieutenant. The Resolution had one hundred and twelve persons on board, (^cers included, and the Adventure eighty-one. Mr. Forster and his son, both eminent naturalists, and Mr. Wales, after- wards Mathematical Master of Christ's Hospital, and Mr. Hodges, an excellent landscape painter, accompanied them. On the 13th of July, 1772, both the ships sailed from Plymouth Sound ; and, on the evening of the 29th, anchored in Funchal Road, in the Island of Madeira. At the Captain's and Mr. Forster's lauding, they were received by a gentleman from the Vice-Consul, who conducted them to the house of Mr. Lough- nans, a very considerable English merchant in the placp. This gentleman not only obtained leave for Mr. Forster to s^ arch the island for plants, but procured them every thing they wanted, and insisted on their accommodating themselves at nis house during their stay. C3 2S cook's SECOND VOYAGE, 1772 — 1775. Having got on board a supply of water, wine, and other necessaries, they left Madeira on the first of August, and steered southward. Captain Cook now made three pun- cheons of beer, of the inspissated juice of malt. The pro- portion was obout ten of water to one of juice. They stopped at St. Jago for a supply of water on the 10th, and having com- pleted this business, and got on-board a supply of refreshments, such as hogs, goats, fowls, and fruit, they put to sea, and pro- ceeded on their voyage. On the 9th, one of the carpenter's mates fell overboard, and was drowned. He was over the side, setting on one of the scuttles ; whence, it was supposed, he had fallen ; for he was not seen till the very instant he sunk under the ship's stern, w^hen all endeavours to save him were too late. This loss was sensibly felt during the voyage, as he was both a sober man and a good workman. 'At two in the afternoon, on the 29th of October, they made the land of the Cape of Good Hope, without a single man being sick. They had no sooner anchored in Table Bay, than they were visited by the captain of the port and Mr. Brandt. This last gentleman brought off such things as could not fail of being acceptable to persons coming from sea. The master attendant also visited them, according to custom, to take an account of the ships, to inquire into the health of the crews ; and, in particular, if the small-pox was on board, a thing they dread above all others at the Cape. It was the 18th of November before they had got ready to put to sea. During this stay the crews of both ships were served every day with fresh beef or mutton, new-baked bread, and as much greens as they could eat. The ships were caulked and painted, and in every respect put in as good a condition as when they left England. Mr. Forster, whose whole time was taken up in the pursuit of natural history and botany, met with a Swedish gentleman, one Mr. Sparrman, who had studied under Dr. Linnaeus. He, by Captain Cook's consent, embarked as an assistant to Mr. Forster, who bore his expenses on board, and allowed him a yearly stipend besides. In the afternoon of the 22nd they weighed, and on the 25th had abundance of albatross about them ; several of which were caught with hook and line, and were very well relished by many of the people, notwithstanding they were at that time served Avith fresh mutton. Judging that they should soon come into cold weather, the Captain ordered the men to be supplied with the dresses which had been furnished by the Admiralty. On the 10th of December, the weather being hazy, they did not see an island for which they were steering directly, till they were less than a mile from it. It appeared to be about fifty feet high, and half a mile in circuit. It was flat at the top, and and other ^ust, and nee pun- The pro- ;y stopped iving com- reshments, 1, and pro- board, and 3ne of the for he was tiip's stern, iS loss was er man and , they made 5 man being r, than they ■andt. This ■ail of being ;r attendant count of the 1 particular, d above all ready to put ,rere served jad, and as lulked and [ion as when pursuit of [leman, one leeus. He, [ant to Mr. )wed him a le 25th had jirhich were Id by many Ime served Icome into pplied with /, they did Irectly, till 1 about fifty le top, and cook's second voyage, 1772—1775. S9 its sides rose in a perpendicular direction, against which the sea i.»roke exceedingly hijfh. Tiiey were then in the latitude of 60 fieg. 40 min. south, and long. 2 deg. east of the Cape of Good On the 17th, they saw many whales, one seal, pengums, and some white birds. They found the skirts of the loose ice to be more broken than usual ; and it extended some distance beyond the main field, insomuch that they sailed amongst it the most liart of the day ; and the high ice islands without were innumera- ble. The weather was sensibly colder than the thermometer seemed to point out, insomuch that the whole crew complained. In order to enable them to support this the better, the sleeves of their jackets were lengthened with baize, and a cap was made for each man of the same stufF, together with canvass, which proved of great service to them. After proceeding some days through fields and islands of ice, on the 29th tliey came to a resolution, to run as far west as the meridian of Cape Circumcision, provided they met with no im- pediment, as the distance was not more than eighty leagues, the wind favourable, and the sea seemed to be pretty clear. At one o'olock they steered for an island of ice, thinking, if there vyere any loose ice round it, to take some on board, 'Rtid convert it into fresh water. At four they brought to close under the lee of the island, where they did not find what they wanted, but saw upon it eighty-six penguins. This piece of ice was about half a mile in circuit, and one hundred feet high and upwards ; for they lay for some minutes, with every sail becalmed under it. On the 2nd of January, 1 773, the weather was so clear that they might have seen land at fourteen or fifteen leagues distance. — On the 5th, however, they had much snow and sleet, which, as usual, froze on the rigging as it fell ; so that every rope was covered with the finest transparent ice. On the 9th they brought to, and took up as much ice as yielded fifteen tons of good fresh ^'ater. The pieces taken up were hard, and solid as a rock ; some of them so large, that they were obliged to break them with pickaxes before they could be taken into the boats. On the 8th, of February, having lost sight of the Adventure, they suspected a separation had taken place, though they were at a loss to tell how it happened. Captain Furneaux had been ordered bjr Captain Cook, in case he was separated, to cruize three days ir. the place where he last saw him ; he, therefore, con- l tinued making short boards, and firing half-hour guns, till the 9th in the afternoon, when the weather having cleared up, they could see several leagues round them, and found that the Adventure was not within the limits of their horizon. At this time they were about two or three leagues to the eastward of the ituation they were in when they last saw her. Next day they aw nothing of her, notwithstanding the weather was pretty cleaj*, and Captain Cook had kept firing guns, and burning false } ■I ■•1 ,■ .1 ■^ ,1 ■ t I ?1 li. t; ' ,1 IS V,' i: SO cook's second voyage, 1772 — 1775. fires, all night. He, therefore, gave over looking for her, made sail, and steered S. E. with a fresh gale, accompanied with a high sea. On the 17th, at nine in the morning, they bore down to an island of ice, which they reached by noon. It was full half a mile in circuit, and two hundred feet high at least, though very little loose ice about it. But while they were considering whether or no they should hoist out boats to take some up, a great quantity broke from the island. Of this detached part they made a shift to get on-board about nine or ten tons before eight o'clock, when they hoisted in the boatf , and made sail to the east, inclining to the south. On the 23rd they tacked, and spent the night, which was ex- ceedingly stormy, thick, and hazy, with sleet and snow, in making short boards. Surrounded on every side with danger, they wished for day-light. This, when it came, served only to ificrease their apprehensions, by exhibiting to view those huge mountains of ice which, in the night, they had paidsed without seeing. On the 7th of March the weather became fair, the sky cleared up, and the night was remarkably pleasant, as well as the morn- ing of the next day, which, for the brightness of the sky, the serenity and mildness of the weather, gave place to none they had seen since they had left the Cape of Good Hope. It was such as is litde known in this sea ; and, to make it still more Sjreeable, they had not one island of ice in sight. On the 17th aptain Cook came to a resolution to quit the high southern latitudes, and to proceed to New Zealand, to look for the Adven- ture, and to refresh his people. At ten o'clock of the 25th, die land of New Zealand was seen from the mast-head, and at noon from the deck, extending from north-east by east to east, distant ten leagues. On the 26th they steered to, and entered. Dusky Bay, about noon. In this bay they were all strangers ; in Captam Cook's former voyage he only discovered and named it. After limning about two leagues up the bay, and passing several of the isles which lay in it, they brought to, and hoisted out two boats, one of which was sent away, with an officer, round a point on the larboard hand, to look for anchorage. This he found, ajid signified the same by signal. They then followed with the ship, and anchored in fifty fathoms' water, so near the shore as to reach it with a hawser. They had now been one hundred and seventeen days at sea ; in which time they sailed three thousand six hundred and sixty leagues, without having once sight of land. On the 27th, at nine o'clock in the mornmg, got under sail with a light breeze at south-west, and working over to Pickers- gill Harbour, entered in by a channel scarcely twice the width of the ship ; and in a small creek moored head and stern, so near the shore as to reach it with a brow or stage, which nature had in a manner prepared in a large tree, whose end or top reached I': r her, made lied with a down to an [ halt' a mile ti very Utile whether or sat quantity nade a shift jlock, when inclining to ich was ex- V, in making anger, they ed only to those huge ised without sky cleared s the morn- he sky, the ) none they )e. It was it still more [)n the 17th fh southern the Adven- le 25th, tlie md at noon tast, distant usky Bay, in Captain it. After several of d out two ind a point he found, d with the |e shore as ndred and thousand ht of land, [under sail Pickers- e width of in, so near lature had ip reached .<•. > ^ ic I 'I a. :'A >'. m ■**! '■■» f ,u' :'->>'■ il' !:. - * J. ^ .- » _ - ■ v*. •'■" ■'- ■'*' -V « ■ ■ ■ j ' T • ' . • wi'*'- ■''>'" ■*.r y ,^ i ■ cook's second voyage, 1773 — 1775. 31 the jjunwale. In the evening they had a short interview with three ol" the natives, one man and two women. They were the lirst that discovered themselves on the north-east point of Indian Island, named so on this occasion ; the man hallooed to ihem^ — He stood, with his club in his hand, upon the point of a rock, anu behind, at the skirts of the wood, stood the two women, with each a spear. The man could not help discovering great signs of fear when they approached the rock with the boat. He, however, stood firm ; nor did he move to take up some things they threw him ashore. At length Captain Cook landed, went up and embraced him, and presented him with such articles as at once dissipated his fears. Presently after they were joined by the two women, the other gentlemen, and some of tlie sea- men. After this they spent about half-an-hour in chit-chat, little understood on either side, in which the youngest of the two women bore by far the greatest share. This occasioned one of the seamen to say, that women did not want tongue in any part of the world. Having some geese left out of those brought from the Cape of Good Hope, they went with them next morning to Goose Cove (named so on this account.) They chose this place, for here are no inhabitants to disturb tliem : and, secondly, here being the most food, they will breed, and may in time spread over the whole country, aiid fully answer the intentionrin leaving them. Their first care after the ship was moored, was to send a boat and people fishing, in which they were very successful, returning with fish sufficient for all hands for supper ; and in a few hours in the morning caught as many as served for dinner. This gave them certain hopes of being plentifully supplied with this, article. Nor did the shores and woods appear less destitute of wild fowl ; so that they hoped to enjoy, with ease, what, in their situation, might be called the luxuries of life. This deter- mined them to stay some time in this bay, in order to examine it thoroughly ; as no one had even landed before on any of the southern parts of this country. About one hundred yards from the stern was a fine stream of fresh v/ater. Thus situated, they began to clear places in the woods, in order to set up the iistronomers' observatory, the forge, and tents for the different artificers. They also began to brew beer, from the branches or leaves of a tree, which much resembles the American black spruce. On the 28th a canoe appeared, and in it seven or eight people. They remained looking at the ship for some time, and then re- turned; though signs of friendship were made. After dinner the captain took two boats, and went in search of them. They found a canoe hauled upon the shore, near to two small huts, where were several fire-places, some fishing-nets, a few fish lying on the shore, and some in the canoe, but saw no people. After a short stay, and leaving in the canoQ some medals^ 34 cook's second voyage, 177'2 — 1775. .V J I ooking-Gf lasses, beads, &c. tliey embarked, and rowed to tlic head of the cove, where (hey found nothing remarkable. The country is exceedingly mountainous, not only about Dusky Bay, but throujfh all the southern part of this western coast of Tavai Poenaninuio. Jiut the lan«l borderinpr on the sea-coast, and all the islands, are thickly clothed with wood, almost down to the water's edge. The trees are of various kinds, such as are common to other |>artsof this country, and are lit for the ship-wright, house-(^arpenter, cabinet-maker, and many other uses. Except in the Uiver Thames, there is not liner tiinber in all New Zealand. Wluit Dusky Bay most abounds with is fish ; a boat with siv or eijUfht men, with hooks and lines, caught daily suiiicient to serve the whole shin's company. Of this article the variety is almost equal to the plenty. The shelWish are nuiscles, cockles, scallops, cray-fish, and many other sorts. The o'')ly amphibious animals are seals : these are to be found in grttat numbers about this bay, on tlie small rocks and isles near the sea-const. Next morning they made the natives another visit, accom- panied by Mr. Forster and Mr. Hodges, carrying with them various articles, which were received with a great deal of indif- ference, except hatchets and spike nails. The interview was at the same place as last night ; and now they saw the whole family. It consisted of the man, his two wiv**s (as was sup- posed), the young woman before mentioned, - ly about four- teen years old, and three sjnall children, the 3 est of which was at the breast. They conducted them to ineir habitation, which was but a little way within the skirts of tie wood, and consisted of two mean huts made of the bark of trees. Their canoe, which was a small, double one, just large enough to transport the whole family from place to place, lay in a small creek near the huts. W'^hen they took leave, the chief presented Captain Cook with a piece of cloth or garment of their own manufacturing, and some other trifles. On the 11th of April several of the natives came and sat down on the shore, abreast of the ship. The captain now caused the bagpipes and life to play, and the drum to beat. The two first they did not regard, but the latter excited some little atten- tion ; nothing, however, could induce them to come on board ; although they entered with great familiarity into conversation (little understood) with such of the oilicers and seamen as went to them, paying much greater regard to some than to others. On the 17th, two of the natives, the chief and his daughter, ventured on-ljoard : the captain took them both down into the caliin^ where they were to breakfast ; but they would not taste any of the victuals. The chief pried into every corner of the cabin, all parts of which he viewed with some surprise ; but it was not possible to lix his attention to an}^ one thing a single moment. The works of art appeared to him in the same light cook's second voyage, \77'2 — 1775 33 d to the ■ • ly about I western Of on the th wood, )\is kinds, are lit for nd many not liner t aboiuids and lines, lany. Of -fish, and ire seals : ay, on the it, accom- with them il of indif- iew was at the whole I was sup- boiit four- of which labitation, wood, and s. Their nough to a small [presented heir oAvn and sat DW caused The two Jttle atten- In board; ^versation as went Others, laughter, into the lot taste ler of the ; but it a single Ime light as those of nature, and were as far removed beyond his com- prehension. The chief, i)efore he came on-board, presented the captain witii a i)iece of cl(»th, and a green talc hatciiet ; to Mr. Forster he also gave a piece of cloth ; and the girl gave another to Mr. Hodges. This custom of making presents before they receive any, is common with the natives of the South Sea Islands : but they never saw it practised in New Zealand before. Of all the various articles which were given to the chief, hatchets and spike-nails were the most valuable in his eyes. In tlie afternoon of the 21st, they went a seal hunting. The surf ran so high that thej^ could only land in one place, where tliey killed ten. These animals served three purposes ; the skins were made use of for the rigging, the fat gave oil for their lamps, and the flesh they eat. In the morning of the 23rd, Mr. Pickersgill, Mr. Gilbert, and two others, ascended one of the mountains. In the evening they returned on board, and- re- ported that, inland, nothing was to be seen but bcarren moun- tains, with huge, craggy precipices, disjoined by valleys, or rather chasms, frightful to behold. Having still a few geese left. Captain Cook ordered some of them to be turned out where there was the greatest appearance of food and security. There is no doubt but that they will breed, and may, in time, spread over the whole country, and thus be of sei-vice to the natives. On the 27th, they had hazy weather. In the morning Captain Cook set out, accompanied by Mr. Pickersgill and the two Mr. Forsters, to explore an inlet seen the day before. After rowing about two leagues up it, it was found to communicate with the sea, and to afford a better outlet for ships bound to the north than the one tiiey came in by. After making this discovery, and refresh- ing themselves on broiled fish and wild fowl, they set out for the ship, and got on-board at eleven o'clock at night. In this #xpedition they shot a number of birds of different kinds. ' Having got the tents, and every other article, on-board, on tfie 28th they weighed with a light breeze and stood up the bay for the new passage. Ii? ^he morning of the 11th of May, they Weighed and stood out to sea; and by noon they got clear of me land. ' After leaving Dusky Bay, they steered for Queen Charlotte's ^und, where they expected to find the Adventure. In this passage they met with nothing remarkable, or worthy of notice, ill the afternoon of the 17th, when the sky became suddenly bscured by dark, dense clouds, and seemed to forebode much nd. Presently after six water spouts were seen. Four rose d spent themselves between them and the land : the fifth was thout them : the sixth first appeared at the distance of two three miles from them : its progressive motion was not in a raight, but in a crooked line, and passed within fifty yards of C 3 Hf ■I 11 1* cook's second voyage, 1772—1775. the stern, without their feeling any of its effects. The diameter of the base of this spout was judged to be about fiftj' o. sixty feet. From this a tube or round body was formed, by which the water, or air, or both, was carried in a spiral stream up to the clouds. At day li^ht on tbe 18th of May, they arrived off Queen Charlotte's sound, where they discovered the Adventure, by the signals she made : an v«vent which every one felt with agree- able satisfaction. At noon, Lieutenant Kemp, of the Adventure, came on board ; from whom they learnt, that their ship had been there about six weeks. In the evening they came to an t»nchoi in Ship Cove, near the Adventure; when Captain Fumeaux came on-board, and gave Captain Cook the following account of his proceedings during their separatioi . " On the 7th of February, 1773, in the morning, the Tiesolu- tion being about two miles a-head, the wind shifting, brought on a very thick fog, so that the Adventure lost sight of her. They soon after heard a gun ; and steering in the supposed direction they kept firing a four-pounder every half-hour; but had no answer. In the evening it began to blow hard, and was, at intervals, more clear, but could see nothing of the Resolution, which gave them much uneasiness. " They then tacked, and stood to cruise in the place where they last saw her, according to the agreement in case of separa- tion ; but next day came on a very heavy g^le of wind and thick weather, that obliged them to bring to, and thereby prevented their reacliing the mtended spot. They cruised as near the place as they could get for three days ; when giving over all hopes of joining company again, they bore away for winter quarters, distant fourteen hundred leagues, through a sea en- tirely unknown, and reduced the allowance of water to one quart per dr y. 'iuey were daily attended by great numbers of sea birds, and frequently saw porpoises. *^ On the 1st of March ihey directed their course for the land laid down in their charts by the name of Van Diemen's Land, supposed to join to New Holland. On the 9th of March they saw the lanfl bearing N. N. E. about eight or nine leagues distant. It appeared moderately high, and uneven near the sea. Here the country is hilly, and well ?lotlied with trees : they sav> no inhabitants. " The morning of the 10th of March being calm, the ship, then about four miles from land, sent the great cutter ou-shore, with the second lieutenant, to find if there was any harbour or good bay. Soon after, it began to blow very hard, they made the signal for the boat to return several times, but they did no( see or hear any thing of it, which gave them much uneasiness, as there was a very great sea. To their great satisfaction, in tlie afternoon, the boat returned safe. They landed, but with mucli difficulty : and saw several places where the Indians had been, M cook's second voyage, 1772 — 1775. <> t> Oil diameter r o- sixty by vliich vdm up to off Queen irfj, by the ith agree- ^Ldventure, r ship liad janve to au in Captain e IbUowin^ the TiesoUi- brought on her. They id direction but had no oind was, at Resolution, place where ise of separa- nd and thick )y prevented as near the ing over all y for winter :h a sea en- ater to one numbers of for the land len's Land, March they .iine leagues inear the sea. les: theysav. Im, the ship, Iter on-shore, ly harbour nr Vj, they made [they did not 1 uneasiness, action, in tk it with mucli had been, ajid one they lately had left, where they had a fire. The weather obliged them to return without investigating the place properly., or finding any anchorage. " On the 16th they passed Maria's Islands, so named by Tasman ; they appear to be the same as the main land. The land hereabouts is much pleasanter, low, and even ; but no signs of a harbour or bay, where a ship might anchor in safety. They stood in the eastward for Charlotte's Sound, with a light breeze at N. W. in the morning of the 5th of April, and on the 6th they had the Sound open. As they sailed up it they saw the tops of iiigh mountains covered with snow, v/hich remains all the year. ()n the 7th they anchored in Ship Cove, in ten fathoms' water. 'Fhe two following days were employed in clearing a place on Motuara Islana, for erecting tents for the sick, the sail-makers, and coopers. On the 9th they were visited by three canoes with about sixteen of the natives ; and to induce them to bring iish, and other provisions, they gave them several things, with which they seemed highly pleased. One of the crew seeing something carefully wTapt up, had the curiosity to examine wliat it was ; and, to his great surprise, found it to be the head of a man lately killed. The natives were very apprehensive of its being forced from them ; and, as if sensible of their unnatural cannibalism, tried to conceal it, and to exculpate themselves Irom the charge. They frequently mentioned Tupia; and when told that he was dead, some of them seemed to be very much concerned, and, as well as they could understand them, wanted to know whether he Avas killed, or if he died a natural death. By these questions, they are the same tribe Captain Cook sav/. In the afternoon they returned again with fish and fern roots, which they sold for nails and other trifles. On the nth of May they felt two severe shocks of an earthquake, but received no kind of damage. On the 17th they had the pleasure of seeing the Resolution off the mouth of tlie Sound." Such is <^he dv^tail of Captain Furneaux's transactions during an absence of fourteen weeks. Captain Cook being aware that scurvy t^rass, celery, and other vegetables, were to be found in Queen (charlotte's Sound, he gave orders that they should be boiled with wheat and portable broth, eveiT morning for breakfast; and with pease and broth for dinner ; knowing from experience* that these vegetables, thus dressed, are extremely beneficial in removing all manner of scoruatic complaints. In the morning of the 20th of May, h-e sent on-shore the only ewe and ram remahiing of those which he had brought from the Cape of Good Hope, with an intent to leave in this country. Soon after he visited the several gardens Captain Furneaux had caused to be made and planted with various articles ; all of which were in a flourislnng state, and, if attended to by the natives, may prove of great utility to them. On the 22nd, in the morning, the ewe and ram he had with so much c^ire and trouble 36 cook's second voyage^ 1772 — 1775. lii: . I ,< ' f:: ';» ! brought to this place, were both found dead ; occasioned, as was supposed, by eating some poisonous plant. Thus his hopes of stocking the country with a breed of sheep were blasted in a moment. About noon they were visited, for the first time since they arrived, by some of the natives, who dined with them ; and it was not a little they devoured. In the morning of the 24th, they met a large canoe in which were fourteen or fifteen people. One of the first questions they asked, was for Tupia, the person brought from Otaheite on the former voyage : and they seemed to express some concern when they told them he was dead. One of tiiese people Captain Cook took, and shewed him some jiotatoes, planted there by Mr. Fannen, master of the Endeavour. There seemed to be no doubt of their succeeding ; and the man was so well pleased with them, that he, of his own accord, began to hoe the earth up about the plants. They next took him to the other gardens, and shewed him the turnips, carrots, and parsnips ; roots which, together with the potatoes, will be of more real use to them than any other articles they had planted. It was easy to give them an idea of these roots, by comparing them with such as they knew. On the 2nd of June, the ships being nearly ready to put to sea. Captain Cook sent on-shore two goats, male and female. Captain Furneaux also put on-shore, in Cannibal Cove, a boar and two breeding sows ; so that there is reason to hope this country will, in time, be stocked with these animals, if they are not destroyed by the natives before they become wildj for afterwards they will be in no danger. Early the next morning some of the natives brought a larr^e supply of fish. One of them desired Captain Cook to give hi-i son a white shirt, which he accordingly did. The boy was so fond of his new dress, that he went all over the ship, presenting himself before every one that came in his way. The freedom, used by him, offended Old Will, the ram goat, wiio j^dve hin) a butt with his horns, and knocked him backwards on the deck. Will would have repeated the blow, had not some of the people come to the boy's assistance. The misfortime, however, seemed to him irreparable. The shirt was dirtied, and he was afraid to appear in the cabin bel'ore his father, until brought in by Mr. Forster; when he told a very lamentable story against Goury, the great dog, (for so they called all the quadrupeds that were on board ;) nor could he be reconciled, till the shirt was washed, and dried. About nine o'clock, a large double canoe, in which wefle twenty or thirty people, appeared in sight. The natives on board seemed much alarmed, saying that these were their enemies. Two of them, the one with a spear, and the other with a stone hatchet in his hand, mounted the arm chests on the poop, and there, in a kind of bravado, bid those enemies M r-iW cook's second voyage, 1772 — 1775. 37 sioned, as his hopes asted in a time since hem; and I in which jtions they site on the icern when jtain Cook re by Mr. to be no iW pleased 3 the earth sr gardens, )ots which, them than give them ch as they put to sea, ie. Captain ar and two mntry will, destroyed varcls they it a larr^e to give hiti oy was so presenting freedom, j^ave hin? the deck. the people , seemed vas afraid ght in by y against adriipedn the siiiit hich weite latives on k'ere their the other chests on enemit'K defiance ; while the others, who were on board, took to their canoe, and went a-shore, probably to secure the women and children. However, they came on-l3oard, and were very peace- able. A trade soon commenced between the sailors and them ; and it was not possible to hinder the sailors from selling the clothes from off their backs for the merest trifles. This caused Captain Cook to dismiss the strangers sooner than he would have done. The birth day of his majesty, the 4th of June, they spent in festivity, having the company of Captain Furneaux, and all his oflicers. Double allowance enabled the seamen to share in the general joy. On the 7th of June, at four in the morning, the wind being favourable they unmoored, and at seven weighed, and put to sea, with the Adventure in company. Nothing material occurred till the 29th, wlien Captain Cook, was informed that the creAV of the Adventure was sickly, and this he found was but too true. Her cook was dead, and about twenty of her best men were down in the scurvy and flux. At this time his ship had only three men on the sick list, and only one of them attacked with the scurvy. Several more, however, began to shew symptoms of it, and were put upon the wort, marmalade of carrots, rob of lemons and oranges. The sickly state of the Adventure's crew made it necessary to make their best way to Otaheite, where they were sure of finding refreshments : consequently they continued their course to the west : and at six o'clock in the evening, land was seen from the mast-head, bearing west by south. Captain Cook called it Doubtful Island ; the getting to a place where they could pro- cure refreshments was more an object at this time than discovery. At day-break, on the 12th of July, they discovered land right a-head, distant about two mile so that day-light advised them of their danger but just in time. This proved another of those low or half-drowned islands, or rather a larj^e coral shore, o' about twenty leagues in circuit. The next ninming, at four, they made sail, and at day-break saw another of thes • low islai.ds, situated in the latitude of 17 deg. 4 min., longitude 144 deg. 30. min. west, which obtained the name of Adventure Island. M. dc B iivn to Matavia. This done, they made sail, and at six in the evening saw the island bearing west. As they 9H cook's second voyage, 1772 — 1775. t; ■ '•: ( approached the coast, a number of the inhabitants came off in canoes from different parts, bringing with them a little fish, a few cocoa-nuts, and other fruits, which they exchanged for nails and beads. Most of them knew Captain Cook again ; and many inquired for Mr. Banks, and others who were with him before ; but not one asked for Tupia ; as little inquiry was made after Autourou, the man, who went away with M. de Bougainville. But they were continually asking for M. Banks, and several others who were in the former voyage. Tliese people said, that Toutaha, the regent of the greater Peninsula of Otaheite, had been killed in a battle, which was fought between the two king- doms about five months before ; and that Otoo was the reigning prince. Tubourai Tamaide, and several more friends about IMatavai, fell in this battle, as also a great number of common people; but, at present, a peace subsisted between tlie two idngdoms. I^ext morning, being the 17th, they anchored in Oaita-piha Bay, in twelve fathoms' water, abouttwo cable-lengths from the shore, both ships being by this time crowded with a great num- ber of the natives, who brought with them cocoa-nuts, plaintains, bananas, apples, yams, and other roots, which they exchanged for nails and beads. To several, who called themselves chiefs. Captain Cook made presents of shirts, axes, and various other articles ; and in return, they promised to bring hogs and fowls ; a promise they never did, nor ever intended, to perform. Many, who called themselves earees, or chiefs, came oii-board, ])artly with a view of getting presents, and partly to pilfer what- ever came in their way. One of this sort of earees the captain had most of the day in the cabin, and made presents to him and :iil his friends, which were not a few. At length he was caught taking things which did not belong to him, and handing them tjut at the quarter gallery. Many complaints of the like nature were made to him against those on deck, which occasioned his turning them all out of the ship. The cabin guest made good haste to be gone. The captain was so much exasperated at his l>ehaviour, that, after he had got some distance from the ship, he fired two muskets over his head, which made him quit the c-onoe, and take to the water. He then sent a boat to take up the canoe ; and ordered a great gun, loaded with ball, to be fired along the roast, which made all the natives retire from the shore. A few hours after they were all good friends again. It was not till the evening of this day, that any one inquired after Tupia, and rhen but two or three. As soon as they learned the cause oi'his death, they were quite satisfied ; indeed it did not appear to them that it would have caused a moment's uneasiness m the l)reast of any one, had his deatli been occasioned by any other means than by sickness. On the 20th, in the dusk of the evening, one of the natives made off with a musket belonging to tlie guard on-shore. Captain Cook cook's second voyage, 1772 — 1775. ne off in ish, a few nails and tid many I before ; ade after gainville. d several said, that eite, had two king- reigning ids about common tlie two >aita-piha \ from the reat num- Maintains, xchanged es chiefs, ious other nd fowls ; m. on-board. Iter what- le captain ) him and as caught ling them e nature lioned his de good :ed at his the ship, quit the take up be fired ihe shore. It was not r Tupia, he cause i appear iss in the ,ny other »^es made lin Cook V 4 was present when this happened, and sent some of his people after him, which would have been to little purpose, had not some of the natives, of their own accord, pursued the thief. They knocked him down, and took from him the musket, and brought it back. Fear, on this occasion, certainly operated more with them than principle. They, ! owever, deserve to be applauded for this act of justice. In tlie evening. Captain Cook was informed that Waheatoua was come into the neighbourhood, and wanted to see him. In consequence of this information, he determined to wait one day longer, in order to have an interview with this prince. Accora- ingly, early the next morning, he set (mt in company with Captain Furneaux, Mr. Forster, and several of the natives. They found liim seated on a stool, with a circle of people round him. They knew each other at first sight, thougji they had not met since 1769. At that time he was but a boy, and went by the name of Tearee ; but, upon the death of his father, Waheatoua, he took upon him that name. After the first salutation was over, having seated the captain on the same stool with himself, and the other gentlemen on the ground by them, he began to inquire afcer several by name, who were engaged in the former voyage. He next inquired how long he would stay ; and when he told him no longer than next day, he seemed sorry; asked the captain to stay some months, and at last came down to live days ; promising in that time he should have hogs in plenty. But as he had been here already a week, without so much as getting one, he could not put any faith in this promise. In return for the i)resent he received, he ordered a pretty good hog to be carried to their boat. Before they got to an anchor, their decks were crowded with the natives ; many of whom Captain Cook knew, and almost all of them knew him. A great crowd was assembled together upon the shore, amongst whom was Otoo, their king. The captain was just going to pay him a visit, when he \\as told he was mataow'd, and gone to Oparee. He set out on the 26th for Oparee, accompanied by Captam Furneaux, Mr. Forster, and others. As soon as they landed, they were conducted to Otoo, whom they found seated on the ground, under the shade of a tree, with an immense crowd round him. After the first compliments were over, the captain pre- sented him with such articles as were supposed to be most valuable in his eyes, well knowing that it was his interest to gain the friendship of this man. He also made presents to several of his attendants ; and in return, they offered him cloth, which he refused to accept; telhng them that wlnt he hpJ given was for tioy, (friendship.) The king inquired for Tu[)ia, and all the gentlemen that were with the captain in his former voyage, by name. He promised that they should have some hogs the next day ; but he liad much ado to obtain a promise from him to visit 40 cook's second voyage, 1772 — 1775. Hn '■Mis him on-board. He said he was, Mataou no te paupoue ; that is, afraid of the ^uns. He was about thirty years of age, six feet high, and a hne, personable, well made man. All his subjects appeared uncovered before him, his father not excepted. What is meant by uncovering, is the making bare the head and shoulders, or wearing no sort of clothing above the breast. ^ On the 27th, Otoo, attended by a numerous train, paid them a visit. He iirst sent into the ship a large quantity of cloth, fruits, a hog, and two large fish ; and, after some persuasion, came on- board himself, with his sister, a younger brother, and several more attendants. To all of them were made presents : and, after breakfast the captain took the king, his sister, and as many more as he had room for, into his boat, and carried them home to Oparee. He had no sooner landed than he was met by a venerable old lady, t|ie mother of the late Toutaha. She seized both his hands, and burst into a flood of tears, saying, TOutaha Tiyo no Toutee matty Toutaha — (Toutaha, your friend, or the friend of Cook is dead.) Captain Furneaux, presented the king with two fine goats, male and female, which if taken care of, will no doubt multiply. Soon after they were conducted to the theatre ; and entertained with a dramatic hcava, or play, in which were both dancing and comedy. The performers were five men, and one woman, who was no less a person than the king's sister. The music consisted of three drums only ; it lasted about an hour and a half, or two hours: and, upon the whole, was well conducted. It was not possible to find out the meaning of the play. It apparently differed in nothing, that is, in the manner of acting it, from those at Ulietea in the former voyage. The dancing-dress of the lady was more elegant than any seen there, by being decorated with long tassels, made of feathers, hanging from the waist downward. Early in the morning of the 28th, they had another visit from Otoo, who brought more cloth, a pig, and some fruit. His sister, who was with him, and some of his attendants, came on- board : but he and others went to the Adventure, with the like presents to Captain Furneaux. It was not long before he returned with Captain Furneaux on-board the Resolution, when Captain Cook made him a handsome return for the presents he had brought him, and dressed his sister out in the best manner he could. When Otoo came into the cabin, Ereti, and some of his friends, were sitting there. The moment they saw the king enter, they stripped themselves in great haste, being covered before. This was all the respect they paid him ; for they never rose from their seats, nor made any other obeisance. When the king thought proper to depart, he was carried to Oparee in a boat ; when Captain Cook entertained him, and his people, with the bagpipes, (of which music they were very fond,) and dancing by the seamen. He, in return, ordered some of his people to dance also, which consisted chiefly of contortions. •.<'i cook's second voyage, 1772 — 1775. 41 ; that is, six feet subjects 1. What ead and ist. d them a th, fruits, came on- d several its: and, ', and as •ied them was met ha. She 8, saying, ur friend, lented the aken care :tedtothe ', in which five men, ig's sister. I about an , was well ling of the le manner ^ e. The any seen feathers, Ivisit from fuit. His 1 came on- the like jefore he [on, when Fesents he It manner some of 1 the king covered ley never When )paree in people, id,) and le of his itortions. At ten o'clock the following evening, they were alarmed with the cry of murder, and a great noise on-shore, near the bottom of the bay, at some distance from the encampment. Captain Cook suspected that it was occasioned by some of his own people ; and immediately armed a boat, and sent it a-shore, which soon returned with three marines, and a seaman. Some others belonging to the Adventure were also taken, and being all put under confinement, the next morning the captain ordered them to be punished according to their deserts. He did not find that any mischief was done, and the people would confess nothing. The natives, however, were so much alarmed, that they fled from their habitations in the dead of the night, and tlie alarm spread many miles along the coast : for when Captain Cook went to visit Otoo, in the morning, by appointment, he found him removed, or rather fled, many miles from the place oi his abode. Even there he was obliged to wait some hours, before he could see him at all ; and when he did, he complained of the last night's riot. As this was intended to be the last visit. Captain Cook had taken with him a present suitable to the occasion. Among other things were three Cape sheep, which he had seen before, and asked for. He was much pleased with them ; though he could be but little >. nefited, as they were all wethers. The presents he got at this interview entirely removed his fears, and opened his heart so much, that he sent for three hogs, which he presented to them. They now took leave, and informed him they should quit the island the next day ; at which he seemed much affected, and embraced the captain several .times. On the 1st of September the ships unmoored. Some hours before they got under sail, a young man, whose name was Poreo, came, and desired the captain would take him vsith him, to which he consented. Many more offered themselves, but he tefused to take them. This youth asked for an axe and a si -ike- nail for his father, who was then on-board. He had them •ccordinglv ; and they parted just as they were getting under Siil, more like two strangers than father and son. This raised a oubt whether it was so ; which was farther confirmed by a eanoe, coming along side, as they were standing out of the bay, Wid demanding the young man in the name of Otoo. The •rtifice was now seen through ; it was merely to extort some- l^ing from the captain that Poreo had volunteered it. However, fce was given to understand, that unless he returned the axe and " lils, he could not be dismissed. As these were on-shore, he ^as carried away, pretty well satisfied ; tliough a few tears fell |hen he viewed the land astern. As soon as they were clear of the bay, they directed their )urse for ^,he Island of Huaheine, where they intended to touch ; 1 the morning of the 3rd, they anchored in the harbour of wharre. As soon as the ships were in safety^ Captain Cook 43 COOK '3 SECOND VOYAGE, 1772 — 1775. II I IC ■i! ■■\<' m m h 'I ii.iii landed with Captain Furneaux, and was received by the natives with the utmost cordiality. Some presents were distributed among them; and presentljr after, they brought down hogs, fowls, dogs, and fruits, which they willingly exchanged for hatchets, nails, and beads. '^^Phe like trade was soon opened on- board the ship ; so that they had a fair prospect of being plenti- fully supplied with fresh pork and fowls ; and, to people in their situation, this was no unwelcome thmg. Early the next morning. Lieutenant Pickersgill sailed with a cutter, on a trading party, toward the south end of the isle. This gentleman had seen Oberea wliile they lay at Otaheite, who was now decrepit and poor. Captain Cook alsp sent another trading party on-shore near the ships, with which he went himself, to see that it was properly conducted at tlie first setting out, a very necessary point to be attended to. ' On the 4th, Captain Cook wanted to go to Oree, the king, but was told he would come to him ; which he accordingly did, lell upon liis neck, and embraced him. Tliis was by no means ceremonious ; the tears which trickled plentifully down his venerable old cheeks, sufficiently spoke the language of hi^ heart. His friends were also introduced to them, to whom they made presents. In return he gave them a hog, and a quantity of cloth, promising tiiat all tlieir wants should be supplied. On the 7th early in the morning, while the ships were immooring. Captain Cook went to pay his farewell visit to Oree, accompanied by Captain Furneaux and Mr. Forster, They took with them, for a present, such things as were not only valuable, but usetul. He also left with him the inscription plate he had before in kt^^ping, and another small copper-plate, on which were engraved these words, " Anchored here, his Britannic Majesty's ships Resolution and Adventure, September, 177G!" together with some medals, all put up in a bag; of which the chief promised to take care, and to produce to the first ship or ships that should arrive at the island. He then gave a hog ; and after loading the boat with fruit, they took leave ; when the good old chief embraced the captain witli tears in his eyes. Before they quitted this island. Captain Furneaux agrecl to receive on board his ship a young man named Omai, a native of tRietea, where he had some property, of which he had been dispossessed by the people of Bolabola. Captain Cook wondered that Cfaptain Furneaux would encumber himself with this man, who, in his opinion, was not a proper sample of the inhabitants of these happy islands, not hav- ii^ any advantage of birth or acquired rank, nor being eminent in shape, figure, or complexion. The captain, however, after his arrival in England, was convinced of his error; and doubted whether any other of the natives would cook's second voyage, 1772, — 1775. 43 he natives Us tribute d )wn ho^s, inged tor ipened on- inj; plenti- j\e ill their iled with a ; isle. This e, who was her trading iself, to see out, a very lie king, but gly did, i'ell f no means y down his uage of his 1, to whom hos, and a s should be ships were fell visit to VIr. Forster. as were not le inscription hopper-plate, led here, his September, .1 a bag; of roduce to the [e then gave took leave ; ritli tears in eaux agree-] ,ied Omai, a lof which he |la. Captain encumber lot a propel "3, not hav- nor being le captain, tnced of lii; atives would have given more general satisfaction by his behaviour among them. * On the 8th of September tliey auv'^horedat Ulietea, and a trade soon commenced v/ith the natives. Next morning they paid a formal visit to Oree, the chief of this part of tlie isle, carrying with them the necessary presents. He was seated in his own house, which stood near the waterside, where he and his friends received them with great cordiality. He expressed much satisfaction at seeing Captain Cook again, and desired that they might exchange names, which he accordingly agreed to. This is the strongest mark of friendship they can shew to a stranger. After they had made the chief and his friends the necessary presents, they went on-board with a hog, and some iVuit, received from him in return. On the 16tli, Captain Cook was told that his Otaheitean young man, Poreo, had taken a resolution to leave him, and was actually gone ; haying met "with a young woman, for whom he had contracted a friendsliip, he went away with her, and he saw him no more. However, tlie Otaheitean youth's leaving Captain Cook proved of no consequence, as many young men of this island voluntarily offered to come away with them ; he thought proper to take on board one, who was about seventeen or eighteen years of age, named Obedidee, a native of Bolabola, and a near relation of C^oony, chief of that island. After leaving Ulietea on the 17th of September, they steered to the west, and on tlie 1st of October they saw the islands of Amsterdam and Middleburg. As they approached the shore, tsvo canoes came boldly alongside, and some of the natives ■ • " Omai, (observed Captain Coc&,) has certainly a very good understanding, quick parts, and lionest principles ; he is of good natural behaviour, which rendered him acceptable to the best of company; and a proper degree of pride, which taught him to OToid the society of persons of inferior rank. He has passions of the same kind as other young men, but has judgment enough not to indiilge them in any improper degree. I do not imagine that he has any dislike to liquor; and if he bad fallen into company where Ike person who drank the most, met with the most approbation, I have uu doubt but ttat he would have eudeavoured to gain the applause of those with whom he associated ; Imt, fortunately fur him, he perceived tliat driiJ-ing was very little in use but among Mferior people j and as he was very watch(\il int«. the manners and conduct of the per- gas of rank who>honoured him with their protection, he was sober and modest; end I ver heard that, during the vliole time of his stay in England, which was two years, he Orer once disgxiised himself with wine, or ever shewed an inclination to go beyond the strictest nUes of moderation. 1^" Soon after his arrival in Loudon, the Earl of Sandnrich, the first Lord of the Admiralty, Qltroduced him to his majesty at Kew, when he met with a most gracious reception, Sd imbibed the strongest impression of duty and gratitude to that great and amiable ince, which I am persuaded he will preserve to the latest moment of his life. During his stay among us, he was caressed by many of the principal nobility, and did nothing "^ forfeit the esteem of any one of them ; but his principal patrons were the Earl of indwich, Mr. Banks, and Dr. Solander; the former probably thuuglit it a duty of his "Bee to protect and countenance an inhabitant of that hospitable country, where the Eknts and distresses of those in his department had been alleviated and supplied in the lost ample manner; the others, as a testimony of their gratitude for the generous ception they had met with during their residence in his country. It is to be observed, %t though Omai lived in the midst of amusements during his residence in England, return to his native country was always in his thoughts ; and though he was not j)atient to go, he expressed a satisfaction as the time of his return approached. He nbarked with me in the Resolution, when she was fitted out for another voyage, loaded Itli presents from his several friends, and full of gratitude for the kind reception and leatmctfit he had experienced among us." 44 ,.,t .1. i r I ■ 1 i If,, cook's second voyage, 1772 — 1775. As soon all were entered the ship without hesitation board, they nicidesail down to Amsterdam. The people of this isle were so little afraid, that some met them in three canoes about mid-way between the two isles. Mr. Foster and his party spent the day in the country botanizing; and several of tlie officers went out shooting. All of them were very civilly treated by the natives. They had also a brisk trade for bana- nas, cocoa-nuts, yams, pigs, and fowls; all of which were ITTocured for nails, and pieces of cloth. A boat from each ship was employed in trading a-shore, and bringing off their cargoes as soon as they were laden, which was generally in a short time. By this method they got cheajicr, and with less trouble, a good quantity of fruit, as well as other refreshments, from people who had no canoes to carry them off to the ships. ' These islands were first discovered by Captain Tasman, in January, 1642-3, and by him called Amsterdam and Middle- burg. But the former is ci'lled bv the natives Ton-ga-ta-bu, and the latter Ea:-woo-wee. Middfeburg, or Eawoowee, which is the southernmost, is about ten leagues in circuit, and of a height sufficient to be seen twelve leagues. The skirts of this isle are mostly taken up in the plantations ; the south-west and north-west sides especially. The interior parts are but little cultivated, though very nt for cultivation. The anchorage, named English Road, being the first who anchored there, is on the north-west side, in latitude 21 deg. 20 min. 30 sec. south. The island is shaped something like an isosceles triangle, the longest sides whereof are seven leagues each, and the shortest four. It lies nearly in the direction of east-south-east, and west- lorth-west; is nearly all ol' an equal height, rather low, not exceeding sixty or eighty feet above the level of the sea. Amsterdam, or Tongatabu, is wholly laid out in plantations, in which are planted some of the richest productions of nature, such as bread-fruit, cocoa-nut-trees, plaintains, bananas, shad- docks, yams, and some other roots, sugar-cane, and a fruit like a nectarine, called hy them fighegea, Rnd at Otnheite aheeya; m short, here are most of the articles which the Society Islands produce, besides some which they have not. The lanes or roads necessary for travelling are laid out in so judicious a manner, as to open a free and easy communication from one part of the island to the other. Here are no towns or villages ; most of the houses are built in the plantations, with no other order than what convenience requires ; they are neatly constructed, but do not exceed those in the other isles. The materials of which they are built are the same ; and some little variation in the disposition of the framing, is all the difference in their construction. They saw no domestic animals but hogs and fowls. The former are of the same sort as at the other isles in this sea ; but the latter are far superior, being as large as any in Europe, and their flesh equally good, if not better. I f -I 1 t i ■a ill were on ople of this iree canoes er and his several of very civilly e for bana- vhich were fi each ship eir cargoes short time, ble, a good people who Fasman, in id Middle- n-ga-ta-bu, wee, which t, and of a Lirts of this h-west and } but little anchorage, .' ;here, is on sec. south, iangle, the , lie shortest , and west- r low, not ^ 5ea. lantations, of nature, nas, sliad- a fruit like te aheeya; 3ty Islands d out in so nunication o towns or tions, with are neatly sles. The some little difference 8 but hogs the other X as large lot better. tH i IS ■a is i! !£.''< *% ^ "A" ' •A-i I, I ■*■.' A - '. ■> cook's second voyage, 1772 — 1775. 4$ Tliey saw no dojjs, and believe they have none, as they were exceedingly desirous of those on-board. Cooic's friend Atta)?o was complimented with a dog and a bitch, the one from New Zealand, the other from Ulietea. Tlie name of a doc with them is kooree or gooree, the same as at New Zealand, wliich shewa that they are not wholly stnmgers to them. The two vessels which compose the double canoe are each about sixty or seventy feet long, and four or five broad in the middle, and each end terminates nearly in a point. Two such vessels are fastened tcv, and parallel to each other, about six or seven feet asunder, by strong cross-beams, secured by bandages to the upper part of the risings. Oyer these beams, and others which are supported by stanchions fixed on the bodies of the ca- noes, is laid a boarded platform. All the ijarls which compose the double canoe, are made as strong and light as the nature of the work will admit, and may be immerged in water to the very platform, without being in danger of filling. Nor is it possible, under any circumstances whatever, for them to sink, so long as they hold together. Thus they are not only vessels of burden, but fit for distant navigation. They are rigged with one mast, with stepfj upon the platform, and can easily be raised or taken down; and are sailed with a latteen-sail, or triangular one, ex- tended by a long yard, which is a little bent or crooked. Iheir working tools are made of stone, bone, shells, &c. as at the otlier islands. Their knowledge of the utility of iron was no more than sutHcient to teach them to prefer nails to beads, and such trifles ; ; some, but very few, would exchange a pig for a large nail, or a hatchet. Old jackets, shirts, cloth, and even rags, were in more esteem than the best edge-tool ; consequently they got but few axes but what were given as presents. Both men and women are of a common size with Europeans, and their colour is that of a lightish copper, and more unifonnly so than amongst the inhabitants of Otaheite and the Society hies. Captain Cook determined to visit them if possible. They foimd ; good anchorage, and came to in twenty-five fathoms' water. They liad scarcely got to an anchor, before they were surrounded by a great number of canoes full of people, v»ho began to traffic. Among them was a chief, named Tioory, to whom the captain made i present of a hatchet, spike-nail^ and several other articles, with which he was highly pleased. Soon after, a party of them embarked in two boats in company [with Tioony, wno conducted ther; to a little creek formed by tlie rocks, right abreast of the ships, where landing was extremely jeasy, and the boats secure against the surf. Here they found an jimmense crowd of people, who welcomed them onshore with loud lacclamations. Not one of them had so much as a stick, or any [other weapon in his hand ; an indubitable sign of their pacific Untentions. They thronged so thick round the boats with cloth [and matting, to exchange for nails^ that it was some time before 40 cook's second voyage, 1772 — 1775. v^i they could get room to land. Many who could not get near the boats, threw into them, over the others' heads, whole bales of cloth, and then retired, without either askinT or waiting to get any thing in return. The chief conducted them to his house, about three hundred yards from the sea, at the head of a fine lawn, and under the shade of some shaddock trees. The situation was most delightful. In front was the sea, and the ships at anchor ; behind, and on each side, were plantations, in which were some of the richest productions of nature. The floor was laid with mats, on which they were placed, and the people seated themselves in a circle round them on the outside. Having the bagpipes with them. Captain Cook ordered them to be played ; and in re- turn, the chief directed three young women to sing a song, which they did with a very good grace ; and having made each of them a present, it immediately set all the women in the circle a sing, ing. Their songs were musical and harmonious. Bananas and cocoa-nuts were set before them to eat ; and a bowl of liquor pre- Sared in their presence, of the juice of Eava, for them to drink, ut Captain Cook was the only one who tasted it ; the manner of bre^ving i* having quenck d the thirst of every one else. The bowl was, however, soon emptied of its contents by the natives. They returned on board to dinner, with the chief in their cora- paiiy. He sat at table, but eat nothing ; which, as they had fresh pork roasted, was a little extraordinary. Near some of the houses, and in the lanes that divided the plantations, were run- ning about some hogs and very large fowls, which were the only domestic animals they sa\v ; and these they did not seem willing to part with, which determined them to leave this place. As soon as the captain was on-board, they made sail down to Amsterdam, On Jie west side of the isle, they were met by several canoes, each conducted bv three or four men. They came boldly along- side, presented them with some Eava root, and then came on- L board, witho\it farther ceremony, inviting them by all the friendlv T signs they could make to go to their island, and pointing to tk place where ihey should anchor. Having secured the ships. Captain Cook landed, accompanied . by Captain Furneaux, Mr. lorster, and several [of the omceis, having along with them a chief, or person of some note, whose . name was Attago, who had attached himself to the captain from the first moment of his coming on-board, which was before they anchored. After walking a Tittle way into the countn^, they re- f turned to the landing-place, and there found Mr. Wales in a laughable, though distressed situation. The boats wh'ch had brought them on-shore not behig able to get near the landing- place, for want of a sufficient depth of water, he pulled off hk shoes and stockings to walk through, and as soon as he got on dry \aw\, he put them down betwixt his legs to put on again, but they were instantly snatched away by a person behind him, whu immediately mixed with the crowd. It was impossible for hun cook's second voyage, 1772 — 1775. 47 t get near tlie /hole bales of ;vaiting to get to his house, of a fine lawn, situation was ips at anchor ; ch were some was laid with ;ed themselves the bagpipes jd ; and in re- a song, which } each of them circle a sing- Bananas and 1 of liquor pre- them to drmk. ; ; the manner me else. The y the natives, f in their cora- they had fresh • some of the pns, were run- were the only t seem wiUing ce. As soon as Amsterdam, everal canoes, boldly along- len came on- L 11 the friendlj f luting to tltt \ accompanied I' the oiticers, note, whose . captain from ._ before they fntrv, they re- Wales in a I is wb^ch liad [r the landing- 1 )ulled otf his Is he §ot on Ion again, but |ind him, who bsible for him to follow the man bare-footed over the sharp coral rocks, which compose the shore, without having his feet cut to pieces. The boat was put back to the ship, his companions had each madfe his way through the crowd, and he left in this condition alone. The chief soon found out the thief, and recovered his shoes and stockings, and of his own accord conducted them to a plantation hard by, and shewed them a pool of fresh water, though they had not made the least inquiry after any. One of the natives having got into the master's cabin, took out some books and other things. He was discovered just as he was getting out into his canoe, and pursued by one of their boats, which obliged him to quit the canoe, and take to the water. The people in the boat made several attempts to lay hold of him ; but he, as often, dived under the boat, and at last un- shipping the rudder, he got clear off. Some other very daring thefts were committed at the landing-place. One fellow took a seaman's jacket out of the boat, and carried it off in spite- of all the people in her. The rest of the natives, who were very numerous, took very little notice of the whole transaction ; nor were they the least alarmed when the man was tired at. Attago visited Captain Cook again the next morning, and brought with him a hog, and assisted him in purchasing several more. ITiis day the captain was told by the officers who were on-shore, that a far greater man than any they had yet seen was come to pay them a visit. Mr. Pickersgill informed them that he had seen him in the country, and found that he was a man of some consequence, by the extraordinary respect paid to him by the people. Some, when they approached him, tell on their faces, and put their head between their feet ; and no one durst pass him without permission. The captaiii found him seated near the landing-place with so much sullen and stupid gravity, that, notwithstanding what had been told him, he really took him for an idiot, whom the people, from some superstitious notions, were ready to worship. He saluted and spoke to him; but he neither answered, nor did he alter a single feature in his countenance. This confirmed him in his opinion ; and he was just going to leave him, when one of the natives under- took to undeceive him ; which he did in such a manner, as left no room to doubt that he was the king, or principal man on the island. Accordingly he made him a present, which consisted of a shirt, an axe^ a piece of red cloth, a looking glass, some nails, medals, and beads. He received these things, or rather suffered them to be put upon him, and laid by him, without losing a bit of his gravity, speakinjj one word, or turning his head either to the right or left; sitting the whole time like a statue ; in which situation he left him to return on-board, and he soon after retired. The captain had not been long on-board, before word was brought that u quantity of provision had come from this chief. A boat was sent to bring it from the 48 cook's second voyage, 1772 — 1775. shore; and it consisted of about twenty baskets of roasted bananas, sour bread and yams, and a roasted pig of about twenty pounds weight. Tlie bearers said it was a present from the areeke, that is the king of the island, to the areeke of tlie ship. After this they were no longer to doubt the dignity of this sullen chief, whose name was Kohaghee-too-Fallangou. The captain again went on-shore, and made this great man a suitable return, and immediately prepared for quitting the place. At ten o'clock they got under sail. The supplies they got at this isle were about one hundred and fifty pigs, twice that number of fowls, as many bananas and cocoa-nuts as they could find room for, with a few yams ; and had their stay been longer, they, no doubt, might have got a great deal more. On leaving these islands, they made sail to the southward ; it being Captain Cook's intention to proceed directly to Queen Charlotte's Sound in New Zealand, there to take in wood and •water, and then to go on farther discoveries to the south and east. He was very desirous of having some intercourse with the natives of this country, about Poverty or Telago Bays, where he appre- hended they were more civilized than at Queen Charlotte's Sound, in order to give them some hogs, fowls, seeds, and roots, which he had provided for the purpose. They arrived on the 2l8t ; and passing Cape Kidnappers, they saw some canoes put off from the shore. Upon this they brought to, in order to give them time to come on-board. Those in the first canoe, which came along-side, were fishers, and exchanged some fish for pieces of cloth and nails. In the next were two men, who, by their dress and behaviour, seemed to be chiefs. These two were easily prevailed on to come on- board, when they were presented with nails, and other articles. They were so fond of nails, as to seize on all they could find, and with such eagerness, as plainly shewed they were the most valuable tnings they could give them. To the principal of these two men Captain Cook gave the pigs, fowls, seeds, and roots. At first, he did not think it was meant to give them to him ; for he took but little notice of them, till he was satisfied they were for himself; nor was he then in such rapture as when he gave him a spike-nail half the length of his arm. However, at his going away, the captain took notice that he took care to have them all collected together, and kept a watchful eye over them, lest any should be taken away. He made a promise not to kill any ; and if he keeps his word, and proper care is taken of them, there were enough to stock the island in due time. They now stretched to the southward ; when shortly after vfolent weather came on, and for two days they were beating up against a hard gale. When they arrived just m sight of port, they had the mortification to be driven off from the land by a furious storm. They continued to combat tempestuous weatlier till the 30th, when they lost sight of the Adventure. In the afternoon tlw ^x5? cook's second voyage, 1772 — 1775. 40 of roasted g of about resent from ?eke of the » dignity of langou. great man a luitting the ipplies they pigs, twice nuts as they ir stay been more. )uthward; it ly to Queen in wood and uth and east, h the natives ;re he appre- i Charlotte's Is, and roots, irrived on the le canoes put order to give were fishers, Is. In the our, seemed ;o come on- )ther articles, y could find, ere the most ipal of these , and roots, to him ; for id they were hen he gave ^ever, at his "are to have over them, e not to kill en of them, I after violent Ig up against Irt, they had irious storm. Jill the 30th, fternoon tlu; gale abated. Captain Cook now regretted the loss of her, for had she been with him, he should have given up all thoughts of going to Queen Charlotte's Sound for wood and water, and have sought for a place to get these articles farther south, as th« wind was now favourable for ranging along the coast, but their separation made it necessary for them to repair to the Sound, that being the place of rendezvous. As they approached the land, they saw smoke in several places along the shore ; a sure sign that the coast wps inhabited. They continued to stand to the eastward all night, in hopes of meeting with the Adventure in the morning ; but in this they were disappointed, and sdon encountered another storm, iifter a succession of calms and brisk gales, in tracing the coast, they discovered on the east-side of Cape Teerawhitte, a new inlet they had never observed before, into which they entered and cast anchor. Immediately on their anchoring, several of the natives came off in their canoes ; two from one shore and one from the other. It required but little address to get three or four of them on- board. These people were extravagantljr fond of nails, above every other thing. To one man the captain gave two cocks and two hens, which he received with so much indifference, as gave littie hopes he would take proper care of them. They had not been at anchor here above two hours, before the wind veered to N. E. with which they weighed, and steered for the Sound, where they arrived just at dark, with most of their sails split. The next morning, the 3rd of November, the gale abated, and was succeeded by a few hours' calm : after that a breeze si)rung up at N. W. with which they weighed, and ran up into Ship Cove, where they did not find the Adventure, as was expected. The first thing they did, after mooring the ship, was to unbend the sails, there not being one but what wanted repair. In the afternoon, they gave orders for all the empty water casks to be landed, and tents to be set up for the sail- makers, coopers, and others, whose business made it necessary for them to be on-shore. The next day they began to caulk the ship's sides and decks, to overhaul her rigging, repair the sails, cut wood for fuel, and set up the smith's forge to repair *^:; the iron work; all of which were absolutely necessary. f Here they saw theyoungest of the two sows Captain Fumeaux § had put on shore in Cannibal Cove, when they were last here ; it was lame of one of its hind legs, otherwise in good condition, and 1 very tame. If they understood these people right, the boar and other sow were also taken away, and separated, but not killed. They were likewise told, that the two goats they had put on- shore up the Sound had been killed. Thus, all their endeavours to stock this country with useful animals were likely to be frustrated by the very people they meant to serve. The gardens had fared somewhat better. Every thing in them, except the poiatoes, they had left entirely to nature, who had acted her •w D y I- cook's second voyage, 1772 — 1775. part so well, that they found most articles in a flourishing state ; a proof that the winter must have been mild. The potatoes had most of them been dug up ; some, however, still remained, and were growing ; and, it is probable, they will never be out of the ground. . The next morning, the captain sent over to the cove, where the natives resided, to haul the seine; and took with him a boar and a young sow, two cocks and two hens, they i>afl brought from the isles. These he gave to the natives, being persuaded they would take proper care of them, by their kee])- ing Captain Fumeaux's sow near five months. When they were purchasing fish of these people, they showed a great incli- nation to pick pockets, and to take away the fish with one hand, which they had just sold or bartered with the other. This evil one of the chiefs undertook to remove, and with fury in his eves, made a shew of ket ping the people at a proper distance. The captain says, *' I applauded his conduct, but at the same time kept so good a look out, as to detect him in picking my pocket of a handkerchief, which I suffered him to put in his bosom before I seemed to know any thing of the matter, and then told him what I had lost. He seemed quite ignorant and innocent, tUl I took it from him ; and then he put it off \vith a laugh, acting his part with so much address, that it was hardly possible for me to be angry with him ; so that we remained good friends, and he accompanied me on-board to dinner." About that time they were visited by several strangers in four or five canoes. In unpacking the bread, four thousand two hundred and ninety-two pounds they found totally unfit to eat, and about three thousand pounds more could only be eaten by people in their situation. The 15th, being a pleasant morning, a party wenr over to East Bay, and climbed one of the hills, which over- looked the eastern part of the strait, in order to look for the Adventure. They had a fatiguing walk to little purpose ; for when they came to the summit, they found the eastern horizon so foggy, that they could not see above two miles. Mr. Forster. who was one of the party, profited by this excursion, in col- lecting some new plants. They now began to despair of seeing the Adventure any more, and were totally at a loss to concei\e what had befallen her. At an early hour in the morning of the 22nd, they were visited by a number of the natives, in four or five canoes, very few ot whom they had seen before. They brought with them various articles, which they bartered. At first, the exchanges were very much in the sailors* favour, till an old man, who was no stranger, came and assisted his countrymen with his advice; which, in a moment, turned the trade above a thousand per cent. against them. Having now put the ship in a condition for sea, and fit to encounter the southern latitudes^ the tents were struck, and cook's second voyage, 1772—1775. 51 shing state ; lOtatoes harl iiained, and le out of the cove. >Yhere ^vith him a 1, they haH Lives, being their keep- W^hen they great incli- h one hand, . This evil r in his eves, [ance. The 3 same time 5 my pocket I his bosom nd then told id innocent, augh, acting possible for ood friends, mt that time canoes, undred and about three )ple in their party v^enr which over- ook for the urpose for lern horizon Ir. Forster. ion, in col- ir of seeing to conceive i^ere visited (very few ot \em various mges were l^ho was no lis advice; ^d per cent. and fit to [ruck, and Bvery thing got on-board ; but calm, light airs from the north, all day, on the 23rd, hindered them from putting to sea, as intended. In the afternoon, some of the otficers went oii-shore, to amuse themselves among the natives, where they .3aw the head and bowels of a youth, who had lately been killed, lying on the beach ; and the heart stuck on a forked stick, which was fixed to the head of one of the largest canoes. One of the gentlemen bought the head, and brought it on-board, where a piece of the flesh was broiled, and eaten by one of the natives, before all the officers, and most of the men. Captain Cook was on-shore at this time ; but, soon after returning on-board, was informed of the above circumstances ; and found the quarter- deck crowded with the natives, and the mangled head, or rather part of it, lyin^ on the tafferail. The skull had been broken on the left side, just above the temples; and the remains of the face had all the appearance of a youth under twenty. Tlie sight of the head, and the relation of the above circumstances, struck him with horror, and filled his mind with indignation against these cannibals. Curiosity, however, got the better of his indignation, especially when he considered that it would avail but little ; and being desirous of becoming an eve-witness of a fact which many doubted, he ordered a piece of the flesh to be broiled, and brought to the quarter-deck, where one of these cannibals eat it with surprising avidity. This had such an effect upon some of the sailors as to make them sick. Tliis youth was killed in a sk:*-mish between two parties. On the 25th, they weighed with a small breeze. The morning before they sailed. Captain Cook wrote a memorandum, setting forth the time he arrived, the day he sailed, the route he intended to take, and such other information as he thought necessary for Captain Furneaux, in case he should put into the Sound ; and buried it in a bottle under the root of a tree in the garden, in such a manner as must have been found by him, or any European who might put into the cove. Every one being unanimously of opinion that the Adventure could neither be stranded on the coast, nor be in any of the harbours thereof, they gave up looking for her, and all thoughts of seeing her any more during the voyage, as no rendezvous was absolutely fixed upon after leaving New Zealand. On the 14th of December, they fell in with several large islands of ice, and, about noon, with a quantity of loose ice, through which they sailed. Gray albatrosses, blue peterels, pintadces, and fulmers, were seen. As they advanced with a fresh g.ile at west, they found the number of ice islands, in- crease fast, also a considerable quantity of loose ice. They tacked, stretched to the north, and soon got clear of ii, but not before they had received several hard knocks from the larjjcr pieces, which, with all their care they could not avoid. Alter ckaring one danger, they still had another to encounter ; the D 2 Ml, I" H * t 1 \ il 1 1' HMt i li^fc .!'■'.) r;ii i= MJ 1 IT' i Si \1 52 cook's second voyage, 1772 — 1775. weather remained foggy, and many large islands lay in their way. One they were very near falling a-board of; and if it had happened, this circumstance would never have been related. These difficulties determined them to get more to the north. On the 21st, they were very suddenly got in amongst a cluster of very large ice islands, and a vast quantity of loose pieces ; and as the fog was exceedingly thick, it was with the utmost difficulty they wore clear of them. On the 23rd, the wind being pretty moderate, and the sea smooth, they brought to at the outer edge of the ice, hoisted out two boats, and sent to take some up. The snow froze on the rigging as it fell, making the ropes like wires, and the sails like boarf the young v^en away in ^een before, useful iron ed to leave effectually t sea, and want some on-board, and to the ; o'clock in little wind, "7th, when .a nearer I connected along the I with long le side of on-shore, of having ithout the lobserving (oats, they )ort their lappened. and soon after the boats returned on-board, when Mr. Cooper informed the captain, that, on his landing, only a few of the natives met him on the beach, but there were many in the skirts of the woods, with spears in their hands. Tlie presents he made them were received with ^reat coolness, which plainly shewed they were unwelcome visitors. They brought-on board five dogs, which seemed to be in plenty there. They saw no fruit, but cocoa-nuts, of which they got by exchanges, two dozen. On the 1 8th, at day-break, they wore down to another isle, which they had in sight to the westward, which they reached by eight o'clock, and ranged the S.E. side at one mile from the shore. These must 136 the same islands to which Commodore Byron gave the name of George's Islands. They made the high land of Otaheite on the 2lst of April, and at eight o'clock the next morning an- chored in INIatavia Bay. This was no sooner known to the natives, than many of them paid them a visit, and expressed not a little joy at seeing them again. On the 24th, Otoo, the king, and several other chiefs, with a train of attendants, paid them a visit, and brought them, as pre- sents, ten or a dozen large hogs, besides fruit. The captain, knowing how much it was his interest to make this man his friend, met him at the tents, and conducted him and his friend on-board, where they staid dinner, after which they were dis- missed with suitable presents, and highly pleased with the reception they had met with. On the morning of the 26th, the captain went down to Oparee, accompanied by some of the oificers and gentlemen, to pay Otoo a visit. As they drew near, they observed a number of large canoes in motion : but . where surprised, when they arrived, to see upivards of three himdred ranged in order, for some distance, along the shore, all com- pletely equipped and manned, besides a vast number of aiuied men upon the shore. So unexpected an armament collected together in their neighbourhood, in the space of one night, gave rise to various conjectures. They had not been long gone from Oparee, where at that time they missed Otoo, before the whole fleet was in motion, to the westward, whence it came. When they got to Matavia, they were told that the fleet was part of the armament intended to go against Eimea, whose chief had thrown off the yoke of Otaheite, and assumed an independency. On the morning of the 27th of April, the captain received a present from a cnief named Towha, consisting of two large hogs and some fruit, sent by two of hLs servants, who had orders not to receive any thing in return; nor would they, when offered them. Soon after, he went down to Oparee in his boat, where having found botli this chief and the king, after a short stay, he brought them both on-board to dinner, together with Tarevatoo, the king's younger brother, and Tee. As soon as they drew near the ship, the admiral, who had never seen one before, began to express 66 cook's second voyage, 1772 — 1775. much surprise at so new a sight. He was conducted all over the ship, every part of which he viewed with great attention. On this occasion, Otoo was the principal show-man ; for, by this time, he was well acquainted with the different parts of the ship. Soon after, the king and liis attendants went away also. Captain Cook had been urged to assist them against Tiarabou, but to their solicitations he gave no encouragement. On going on-shore in the morning of the 7th, they found Otoo at the tents, and took the opportunity to ask his leave to cut down some trees for fuel, which he readily granted. The ca|)tain told him, he should cut down no trees that bore any fruit. He was pleased with this declaration, and told it aloud several times to the people about them. The following lught all their friendly connections received an intemiption, through the negligence of one of the sentinels on-shore. He having either slept or quitted his post, gave one pi* the natives an opportunity to carry off his musket. The first news the captain heard of it was from Tee, whom Otoo had sent on board for that purpose. They were not well enough acquainted with their language to understand all Tee's story ; but they understood enough to know that something had hap- pened which had alarmed the king. In order, therefore, to be fully informed, the cantain went on-shore witli Tee. As soon as they landed, he was tbrmed of the whole by the sergeant who commanded the party. The natives were all alarmed, and the most of them fled. Tee and the captain went to look for Otoo ; and as they advanced, he endeavoured to allay the fears of the people, but at the same time insisted on the musket being re- stored. After travelling some distance into the country. Tee stopped all at once, and advised the captain to return, saying, that Otoo was gone to the mountains, and that he would proceed, and tell him,tnat he (the captain] was, still his friend. Tee also promised that he would use his endeavours to recover the musket. On this the captain returned to the ship, and soon after he observed six large canoes coming round Point Venus. There being room for suspecting that some person belonging to these canoes had committed the theft, he came to a resolution to intercept them ; and having put off in a boat for that purpose, gave orders for another to follow. One of the canoes, which was some distance a-head of the rest, came directly for the ship. He went along-side this, and was told that Otoo was then at the tents. Pleased with this news, he contradicted the orders he had given for intercepting the other canoes, thinking they might be coming on-board also. But when he landed, he was told that Otoo had not been there, nor knew they any thing of him. On looking behind him, he saw all the canoes making off in the greatest haste ; even the one he had left along-side the ship had evaded going on-board and was making her escape. Vexed I cook's second voyage, 1772 — 1775. 57 all over the 3ntion. On for, by this I of the ship, [so. Captain arabou, but they found his leave to mted. The Hi bore any [>ld it aloud received an lie sentinels St, gave one t. The first a Otoo had ^ell enough Pee's story ; ig had hap- refore, to be As soon as ergeant who ed, and the k for Otoo ; fears of the t being re- untry. Tee rn, saying. Id proceed. Tee also ecover the )n after he IS. There |ng to these Solution to purpose, )es, which kr the ship. [hen at the ;rs he had might be told that iin. On loffin the the ship le. Vexed at being thus outwitted, he resolved to pursue them ; and as be passed the ship, gave orders to send another boat for the same purpose. Five out of six they took, and brought along-side ; but the first, whicli acted the finesse so well, got clear off. In one of the ranoes the^ had taken, was a chief, a friend of Mr. Forster's, who had hitherto called himself an Earee, and wotild have been much ofl'euded if any one had called his title in question; also, three women, his wife and daughter, and the mother of the late Toutaha. These, together with the canoes, the captain resolved to detain, and to send the chief to Otoo; thinking he would have weight enough with him to obtain the i-eturn of the musket, as his own property was at stake. In the dusk of the evening it was brought to the tents, together with some other things they had lost, which they knew nothing of, by three men who had pursued the thief, and taken them from him. The captain knew not if they took this trouble of their own accord, or by order of Otoo. He rewarded them, -and made no farther inquiry about it. When the musket and other tilings were brought, every one then present, or who came alter, pretended to have some hand in recovering them, and claimed a reward accordingly. But there was no one acted tliis farce so well as Nuno, a man of some note, and well known to tlie captain when he was here in 1769. This man came, with all the savage fury imaginable in his countenance, and a large club in his hand, with which he beat about him, in order to shew how he alone had killed the thief; when, at the same time, they all knew he had not been out of his house the whole time. As the most essential repairs of the ship were nearly finished, it was resolved to leave Otaheite in a few days ; and the captain accordingly ordered every thing to be got off from the shore, that the natives might see they were about to depart. On the i2th, Oberea, who had grown old and decrepit, paid them a visit, , and brought them a present of hogs and fruit. Soon after came Otoo, with a great retinue, and a large quantity of provisions. The captain was pretty liberal in his returns, thinking it might be the last time he should see these good people, who had so liberally relieved their wants, and in the evening entertained tliem with fire-works. In the afternoon, on the 15th of May, they anchored in O'Wharre Harbour, in the Island of Huahein, when Oree, the chief, brought a ho^, and other articles, to the captain, who, in return, invited him and his friends to dinner. Early in the morning of the 23rd, they unmoored, and put to sea. Oree, the chief, was the last man who went out of the ship. At parting, the captain told him they should see each other no more, at which he wept, and said, ' Let your sons come, we will treat them well." Oree was a good man in the utmost sense of the word ; but many of the people were far from being of that disposition, and seemed to take advantage of his old age. During their stay D 3 88 cook's second voyage, \77'2 — 1776. Hi •:t ■ ( '' t here, they got bread-fruit, and cocoa-nuts in abundance, but not hogs enough ; and vet it did not appear that thev were scarce iu the isle. It must, however, be allowed, that the nunil)er they took away, when last here, must have thinned them greatly, and at the same time stocked the isle with our articles. As soon as they were clear of the harbour, they made sail, and stood over for the south-end of Ulietea, where they dropt anchor the next day. On the 26th, a party went on-shore to pay the chief a visit, and make the customary present. At tlieir first entering his house, they were met by four or live old women, weeping and lamenting, as it were, most bitterly, and at the same time cutting their heads with instruments made of shark's teeth, till the blood ran plentifully down their faces, and on their shoulders. What was still worse, they were oljliged to submit to the embraces of these old hags, and by that me^ns were all besmeared with blood. This ceremony being over, they went out, and immediately after appeared as cheerful as any of the company. The captain made his presents, and after some little stay, returned on-board. The captain having fixed on the 4th of June, his Majesty's birth-day, for sailing, Oreo, the . chief, and his whole family, came on-board, to take their last farewell, accompanied by Oo-oo-rou, the Earee de hi, and Boha, the Earee of Otaha, and several of their friends. None came empty ; but Oo-oo-rou brought a pretty large present, this being his iirst and only visit. The captain distributed amongst them almost every thing he had left. The very hospitable manner in which he had ever been received by these people, had endeared them to him, and given them a just title to every thing in his power to grant. Oreo pressed him to return. When the captain declined making any promises on that head, he asked the name of his Morai, (bury- mg-place). As strange a question as this was, he hesitated not a moment to tell him Stepney ; the parish in which he lived when in London. He wan requested to repeat it sevenU times over till thev could pro»>ounce it ; then. Stepney Morni no Toote was echoed through a hundred mouths at once. What greater proof could they have of these people esteeming them as friends, than their wishing to remember them even beyond the grave ? They had been repeatedly told that they should see them no more ; they then wanted to know where they were to mingle with their parent dust. As they could not promise, or even suppose, that more English ships would be sent to those isles, their faitliful com- panion, Oedidee, chose to remain in hi^ native country. But le left the ship with a regret fully demonstrative of the esteem , le had for them. Just as Oedidee was going out of the ship, le asked the captain to Tatou some Parou for him, in order tci shew the comnianders of other ships which might stop here. He complied with his request, gave him a certificate of the tune I look's secone voyage, 1772—1775. 59 ance, but not ere scarce iu number they 1 greatly, and By made sail, re they dropt i-shore to pay At their first J old women, y, and at the .de of shark's aces, and on •e obliged to y that means r being over, ls cheerful as nts, and after his Majesty's whole family, ompanied by )f Otaha, and ut Oo-oo-rou md only visit. [ thing he had ad ever been n, and given grant. Oreo 1 making any 'orai, (burj'- hesitated not ich he lived several times y Morni no nee. What ing them as beyond the should see they were to that more [i'aitliful com- juntry. But ~ the esteem of the ship, in order to it stop here. of the time lie had been with them, and recommended liim to the notice of tliose who might toucli at the island after them. On the 16th, just after sun-rise, land was seen from the top- must head. They immediately steered for it, and found it to be an ishmd, composed of five or six woody islets, connected to- gether by sand banks and breakers inclosing a lake, into which they could see no entrance. The captain looked upon this as a new discovery, and named it Palmerston Island, in honour pf Lord Palmerston, one of the Lords of the Admiralty. On the tlOth, they again saw land ; and as they drew nearer, found it to be an island of considerable extent. Perceiving some people on the shore, and landing seeming to be easy, they hoisted out two boats, with which they put off, accompanied by some of tlie officers and gentlemen. Friendly signs were made to the natives, which were answered by menaces. All endea- vours to bring them to a parley were to no purpose, for they ad- vanced with tlie ferocity of wild boars, and threw their darts. Two or three muskets, discharged in the air, did not hinde* one of them from advancing still farther, and throwing another dart, which passed close over the captain's shoulder. His temerity would have cost him his hfe, had not the captain's musket missed fire. The conduct and aspect of these islanders occasioned the captain's naming it Savages' Island. They seemed to be stout, well-made men, were naked, except round tlie waists ; and some of them had their faces, breasts, and thighs, painted black. On the 26th of June, they arrived off the coast of Rotterdam. Before they had well got to an anchor, the natives came off from all parts in canoes, bringing with them yams and shaddocks, which they exchanged for small nails and old rags. Early in the morning of the 28th, Lieutenant Gierke, with the master and fourteen or fifteen men, went on-shore in the launch foi water. She was no sooner landed, than the natives gathered about her, behaving in so rude a manner, that the officers were in some doubt if they should land the casks ; however, they ventured, and, with diificulty, got them filled, and into the boat again. '^^^hile thus employed, Mr. Gierke's gun was snatched from liim, and carried oft"; as were also some of the cooper's tools, and other articles. All this was done, as it were, by stealth ; lor they laid hold of nothing by main force. The captain landed just as the launch was ready to put off; and the natives, who were pretty numerous on the beach, as soon as they saw him, fled ; so that he suspected something had happened. However, he prevailed on raanjf to stay. Bemg informed of all the pre- ceding circumstances,' he quickly came to a resolution to oblige them to make restitution ; and for this pui-pose, ordered all the marines to be armed and sent on-shore. He then sent all the boats off but one, with which he staid, having a good many of the niiuves about him, who behaved with their usual courtes} ; , r - ./, 60 cook's second voyage, 1772 — 1775. i! I ^ yi'j. m I .■"J ■ ill i: but he made them so sensible of his intention, that, long before the marines came, Mr. Gierke's musket was brought. Captain Cook quitted Rotterdam, or Anamooka, immediately after this, and on the 30th, they saw the summit of Amattafoa, but not clear enough to determine, with certainty, whether there was a volcano or no : but every thing they could see concurred to make them believe there was. As the captain intended to get to the south, in order to explore the land which might lie there, they continued to ply between the Isles of Lepers and Aurora ; and on the 19th of July, the last-mentioned isle bore souths dis- tant twenty miles. At day-break, on the 21st, they found themselves before the channel that divides Whitsuntide Island from the South Land, which is above two leagues o i'er. Having sent two armed boats to sound, and look for anchorage, they soon followed. Next morning early, a good many of the natives came round them, some in canoes, and others swimming. The captain soon pre- vailed on one to come on-board ; which he no sooner did, than he was followed by more than he desired ; so that not only the deck, but rigging, was presently filled with them. He took four into the cabin, and gave them various articles, which they shev/ed to those in the canoss, and seemed much pleased with their reception. Unwilling to lose the benefit of the moon-light nights, which now happened, they weighed on the 23rd, and proceeded out of the harbour. Soon after they got to sea, they stood over for Ambry um. On the 24th, they reached an island near A pee, about four leagues in circuit ; it is remarkable by having three high peaked hiils upon it, by which it has obtained that name. They now steered to the east; and having weathered Three-hills, stood for a group of small isles which lie off' the S. E. point of Apee. These were called Shepherd's Isles, in honour of Dr. Shepherd, Plumian Professor ot Astronomy, at Cambridge. Continuing their course to the south, they drew near the southern lands, which they found to consist of one large island, whose southern and western extremities extended beyond their sight, and three or four smaller ones, lying oif its north-side. The two northernmost are much the largest, have a good height, and lie in the direction of E. by S. and W. by N. from each other, distant two leagues. They named the one Montagu, and the other Hinchinbrook ; and the large island. Sandwich, in honoiAr of the Earl of Sandwich. In the night of the 5th of August, they saw a volcano, which they observed to throw up vast quantities of tire and smoke, with a rumbling noise heard at a grent distance. They riow made sail for the island whence it appeared, and presently al'ler dis- covered a small inlet, which had the appearance of being a good harbour. The wind left them as soon as they were within the entrance, and obliged them to drop an anchor in four fathoms' water. After this the boats were sent tu sound. Sk . rOOK'S SECOND VOYAGE, 177*2 — 1775, 61 long before t. immediately Amattafoa, hether there e concurred ;nded to get fht lie there, md Aurora ; e souths dis- s before the Jouth Land, armed boats [ved. Next round them, n soon pre- ler did, than not only the ook four into sy shewed to Bir reception, lights, which ceded out of ood over for A pee, about three high ame. They Three-hills, . E. point of Hour of Dr. bridge. |w near the arge island, eyond their north-side. ood heiglit, from each ntngu, and uidwich, in rano, wliich fmoke. With Jriow made (y alter dis- cing a good within the liir fathoms' Towards the evening, the captain knded at the h^ad of the harbour, with a strong party of men, without any opposition be- ing made by a great number of the natives, who were assembled in two parties, the one on the right, the other on the left, all armed. After distributing to the old people, (for they could dis- tinguish no chief,) and some others, presents of cloth, medals, &c. he ordered two casks to be filled with water out of a pond, about twenty paces behind the landing-place, giving the natives f to understand, that this was one of the articles they wanted. Besides water, they got from them a few cocoa-nuts, which seemed to be in plenty on the trees ; but they could not be pre- vailed upon to part with any of their weapons. These they held in constant readuiess, and in the proper attitudes of offence and defence, so that little was wanting to make them attack them. Their early re-embarki'i>; probably disconcerted their scheme, and after that ihey all retired. While they were bringing the ship nearer the shore, to wood and water, they observed the natives assembling from all parts, and forming themselves into two parties, as they did the preced- ing evening, one on each side of the landing-place, to the amount of some thousands, armed as before. A canoe, now and then, came oft', bringing a few cocoa-nuts or plantains. The captain made an old man, who seemed weil disposed, understand, by signs, that they were to lay aside their weapons, and throwing those that were in the canoe overboard, made him a present of a large piece of cloth. There was no doubt that he understood him, and made this request known to his countrymen ; for as soon as he landed, they observed him go first to one party, and then to the other ; nor was he ever after seen with any thing like a weapon in his hand. After this, three fellows came in a canoe under the stern, one of them brandishing a club, with which he struck the ship's side, and committed other acts of defiance ; but at the last oflered to exchange it for a string of beads, and some other trifles. These were sent down to )iim by a line ; but the moment they were in his possession, he and his companions paddled off in all haste, without giving the club in return. This was what the captain expected, and, indeed, what he was not sorry for, as he wanted an opportunity to shew the multitude on- shore, the effect of their fire-arms, without materially hurting any oi them. Having a fowling-piece loaded with small shot, he gave the fellow tiie contents ; and when they were above mus- ket shot off", he ordered some of the imisketoons to be ffred which alarmed them much. This transaction, however, seemed to maka little or no impression on the people there : on the con- trary, they began to halloo, and to make sport of it. On the 9th, Mr. Forster learnt from the neople the proper name of the island, which they call Taium. They gave them to understand, in a manner which they thought adnilftecj of no doubt, that they eat human flesh, and that circuincision was 6*i cook's second voyage, 1772 — 1775. 'S: 11,'J practised among them. They began the subject of eating hu- man flesh of their own accord, by asking them if they did. One of the men employed in taking in ballast, scalded his fingers in removing a stone out of some water. This circumstance pro- duced the discovery of several hot springs at the foot of the cliff, and rather below high water mark. On the 17th, the captain went on-shore, to pay a visit to an old chief, who was said to be king of the island. His name was Geogy, and they gave him the title of Areeke. He was very old, but had a merry, open countenance. He wore roimd his waist, a broad, red and white chequered belt ; but this vtas hardly a mark of distinction. The next day, tlie captain again went a-shore, and found in the crowd old Geogy, and a son of liis, who soon made him understand, that they wanted to dine with him ; and accordingly he brought them, and two more on- board. When he got them on-board, he went with them all tjver the ship, which they viewed with uncommon surjirise and attention. They happened to have for their entertainment, a kind of pie, or pudding, made of plantains, and some sort oi" greens which they had got from one of the natives. On this, and on yams, they made a hearty dinner. In the afternoon, having made each of them a present of a hatchet, a spike-nail, and some medals, they were conducted on-shore. On the 20th of August, as soon as the boatB were hoisted in, they made sail, and stretched to the eastward. Nothing material occurred till September 4th, when looking S. E. the coast seemed to terminate in a high promontory, which the cai)tain name f I Cape Colnet, after one of his midshipmen, who first discovered this land. Some gaps, or openings were seen on the 5th to lie- all along the coast, whither they plied up. After running two leagues down the outside of the reef, (for such it proved) they came before an opening that had the appearance of a good channel. They wanted to get on-shore, to have an opportunity to observe an eclipse of the sun, which was soon to happen. With this view they hoisted out two armed boats, and sent them to sound th? channel ; ten or twelve larjj"e saiihig canoes being then near the'm. They had observed them coming oil" from the shore al! the morning, from different parts. The boats havinj^ made a signal for a channel, they stood in. They had hardly got to an anchor, before they were surrounded by a great iuui»- ber of the natives, in sixteen or eighteen canoes, the most of whom were without any sort of weapons. At first they were shy of coming near the ship ; but in a short time they prevailed on the people in one canoe to come close enough to receive some presents. These they lowered down lo th^m by a rope, to which, in return, th^'v tied two fish, that stunk intolerably. These mutual exchafrfi^s bringing on a kind of confidence, two ventured on-board tht *liip j and presentJy after^ *he was filled J cook's second voyage, 1772 — 1775. 63 )f eating hii- y did. One liis fingers in nstance pro- >t of the cliff, a visit to an His name :e. He was ! wore round but this Was aptain again and a son of ited to dine wo more on- vith them all sur^irise and ftainment, a jome sort oi' ;s. On this, e afternoon, a spike-nail, e hoisted in, ling material ;oast seeme it any 13 rt of the fubtedly the jiany trf ;s ticular, the in any part of that country : but the chief produce is a sort of spruce pine, which grows in abundance, and to a large size, manv of the trees bein^ as thick, breast high, as two men could fathom, and ex- ceedmgly straight and tail. It resembles the Quebec pine. For atK>ut two hundred yards from the shore, the ground is covered «o thick with shrubs and plants, as hardly to be penetrated faither inland. The woods were perfectly clear, and free from underwood, and the soil seemed rich and deep. Aifter leaving Norfolk Isle, they steered for New Zealand, intending to touch at Queen Charlotte's Sound, to refresh the crew, and put the ship in a condition to encounter the southern latitudes. On the 17th, at day-break, they saw Mount Egmont, which was covered vdth everlasting snow. Their distance from tjie shore was about eight leagues. On tlie 18th. they anchored before Ship Cove ; and in the afternoon the captain went into Ae cove, with the seine, to try to catch some fish. The first tiling he did after landing, was to lock for the bottle he left when last here, in which was the men;orandum. It was taken Away, but by whom it did not appear. Two hauls with the seine goduced only four small fish ; uiey in some measure made up r this deficiency by shooting several bii i. «j Being Uttle wind next morning, they weighed, and warped the dhip into the cove, and there moored. Here the forge was erected, and the ship and rigging repaired. The captain gave #rders that vegetables should be boiled every morning, with oat- Itieal and portable broth, for breakfast, and with peas and broth frery day for dinner, for the whole crew, over and above their liBual allowance of salt meat. In the afternoon, as Mr. Wales Was setting up his observatory he discovered that several trees which were standing when they last sailed from this place, I^d been cut down with saws and axes. It was, therefore. Blow no longer to be doubted that the Adventure had been in this cove after they had left it. V On the 6th of November, their old friends having taken up tlieir abode near them, one, whose name was Pedro (a man of iOme note) made the captain a present of a stafFof honour, such ii the chiefs generally carry. In return, he dressed him in a itait of clothes, of which he was not a httle proud. Having got ^s person, and another, into a communicative mood, he began to inquire of them if tlie Adventure had been there durinjET his TOsence ; and they gave him to understand, in a manner which admitted of no doubt, that, soon after they were gone, she rived ; that 'jhe staid between ten and twenty days, and had en gone ten months. On the 10th of November, they took their farewell of New jaland, and steered for Cape Campbell. The captain's inten- )n now was to cross this vast ocean, so as to pass over those irts which were left unexplored the preceding summer. On iturday, the 17th December, they made land, about six leagues 66 cook's second voyage, 1772 — 1775. ' . r. m distant. On this discovery, they wore, and brought to, with the ship's head to the south ; and having sounded, found seventy-five fathoms' water, the bottom stone and shells. The land now before them could be no other than the west coast of Terra del Fuego, and near the west entrance of the Straits of Mugalhaens. On the 18th of December, as they continued to range the coast, about two leagues distant, they passed a projecting point, which was called Cape Gloucester. It shews a round surface of consi- derable height, and has much the appearance of beii^an island, distant seventeen leagues from the Isle of Landfall. On the 20th, at noon, they observed York Minster, then distant five leagues. At ten o'ctock, a breeze springing up, E. by S. they took this opportunity to stand in for the land, to recruit their stock of wood and water, and take a view of the country. Here was .found plenty, and they set about doing what was necessary to the ship, the outside of which was become very foul. The captain was now told of a melancholy accident which had befallen one of the mariners. He had not been seen since eleven or twelve o'clock the preceding night. It was supposed that he had fallen overboard, out of the head, where he had been last seen, nd was drowned. On the 23rd, Mr. Pickersgill was sent in the cutter to explore the east-side of the sound, with an intent to survey the island under which they were at anchor, and which the captain called Shag Island. About seven in the evening he returned, and reported that the land opposite to their station was an island, and had been round ; that between it and the east head lay a cove, in which were many geese. This information induced them to make up two shooting parties next day ; Mr. Pickersgill and his associates going in the cutter, and the captain and the botanists in the {)innace. Mr. Pickersgill went in one direction, and the captain in another, and they had sport enough among the geese, whence this was denominated Goose Island. There being a high surf, they found great difficulty in landing, and very bad climbing over the rocks when they were landed ; so that hundreds of the geese escaped, some into the sea, and others up into the land. Tliey, however, by some means or other, got sixty-two, with which they returned on board all heartily tired ; but the acquisition they had made overbalanced every other con- sideration, and they sat down with a good appetite to supper, on part of what the preceding day had produced. Mr. Pickersgill and liis associates had got on-board sometime before with four- teen geese, so that they were able to make a distribution to the whole crew, which was the more acceptable on account of the approaching festival; for had not providence thus singularly provided for them, their Christmas cheer must have been salt beef and pork. The next morning, the 26th, some of the natives paid them a visit. They were a iittle, ugly, half-starved, beardless race ; not ; f. cook's second voyage, 177:2 — 1775 67 to, with the ;eventy-five now before del Fuego, ;ns. ;e the coast, joint, which ce of consi- g an island, 3n the 20th, ive leagues. jy took this their stock Here was jssary to the rhe captain 3efallen one en or twelve that he had jn last seen, jr to explore y the island iptain called [turned, and island, and lay a cove, ;ed them to ersgill and in and the ,e direction, lUgh among d. There g, and very d; so that and others |r other, got irtily tired ; other con- supper, on Pickersgill with four- iition to the lunt of the singularly been salt )aid them a race; not a tall person appeared amongst them. Tliey nere almost naked ; their only clothing was a seal-skin. The women cover their middle with the flap of a seal-skin, but in other respects are clothed like the men. Two young children were seen at the breast entirely naked ; thus they are inured from their infancy to cold and hardships. They had with them bows and arrows ; and darts, or rather harpoons, made of bone, and fitted to a staff. They, and every thing they had, smelt most intolerably of train oil. Roast and boiled geese and goose-pye, were a treat little known to the seamen ; and they had yet some Madeira wine left, which was the only article cf provision that was mending by keeping ; so that their friends in England did not, perhaps, celebrate (/hristmas more cheerfully than they did. This was named Christmas Sound. On the 28th, they weighed, and stood out to sea, resuming their coast to the east ; and the next day they passed Cape Horn, and entered the Southern Atlantic Ocean. It is the most southern extremity on a groupe of islands of unequal extent, lying before Nassau Bay, known by the name of Hermit Islands. From Cape Horn, they stood over for Success Bay, assisted by the currents, which set to the north. Before tliis they had hoisted their colours, and fired two guns ; and soon after they saw a smoke rise out of the woods, about the south point of the bay, which was supposed to be made by the natives. As soon as they got off the bay. Lieutenant Pickersgill went to see if any traces remained of the Adventure ; but he saw not the least signs of any ship having been there lately. The captain had inscribed his ship's name on a card, which he nailed to a tree, at the place where the Endeavour watered. In the morning, at three o'clock, they bore up for the east end of Staten Land, where they amved next day in the afternoon. After dinner they hoisted out three boats, and landed with a large party of men ; some to kill seals ; others to catch or kill birds, fish, or what came in their way. To find the former, it mattered not wiiere they landed, for the whole shore was covered with them ; and by the noise they made, one would have thought the island was stocked with cows and calves. On landing, they found they were a different animal from seals, but in shape and motion exactly resembling them. The sailors called them lions, on account of the great re- semblance the male has to that beast. Here were also the same kind of seals which they found in New Zealand, generally known b^ the name of sea-bears ; at least they gave them that name. — They were in geneinl so tame, or rather stupid, as to suffer thera to come near enough to knock them down with sticks ; but the « large ones were shot, not thinking it safe to approach them. They also found on the island abundance of penguins and shags. Here were ^eese and ducks, but not many ; birds of prey, and a few small birds. In the evening they returned on-board with plenty of spoil. r \. I m f)8 cook's second voyage, 1772 — 1775. . Wf Next day, being January the first, 1776, finding that nothing was wanting but a good harbour to make this a tolerable place for ships to refresh at, which chance or design might bring hither, Mr. Gilbert went over to Staten Land in the cutter, to l6ok for one. The captain also sent two other boats, which re- turned laden with sea-lions, sea-bears, &c. The old lions and bears were killed chiefly for the sake of their blubber, or fat, to make oil of; for, except their haslets, which were tolerable^ the flesh was too rank to be eaten with any degree of relish. But the young cubs were very palatable ; and even the flesh of some of the old lionesses was not much amiss. About ten o'clock, Mr. Gilbert returned from Staten Land, where he had found a good port, situated three leagues to the westward of Cape St. John, It is almost two miles in length ; in some places near a mile broad. On the island were sea-lions and seals, and such an in- numerable quantity of gulls, as to darken the air when disturbed, and almost to suffocate the people with their dung. This they seemed to void in a way of defence, and it stunk worse than asafoedita. The day on which this port was discovered occa- sioned the captain's calling it New-year's Harbour. Having left the land in the evening of the 3rd, they saw it again next morning, bearing west. On the 14th, at nine o'clock in the morning, they descried an island of ice, as they then thought ; but at noon were doubtful whether it was ice or land; and was in a manner wholly covered with snow- On the 16th, they began to explore the northern coast, and next morning they made sail in for the land. As soon as they drew near the shore, having hoisted out a boat, the captain embarked in it, accompa- nied by Mr. Forster and his party, with a view of reconnoitnng before they ventured in with the sliip, which they afterwards de- clined, as the inner parts of the country were savage and horrible. The wild rocks raised their lofty summits, till they were lost in the clouds, and the valleys lay covered witfi everlasting snow.— Not ^ tree was to be seen, or a shrub even big enough to make a tooth-pick. They found here nearly the same animals as in tlie New-year's Harbour, Since their arrival on this coast, the Captain ordered, in addi- tion to the common sdlowance, wheat to be boiled every morning for breakfast ; but any kind of fresh meat was preferred b^ most an-board to salt : for his part, he says, he was heartily tired of salt meat of every kind ; and though the flesh of the penguins could scarcely vie with bullock's liver, its being fresh, was suffi- cient to make it go down. They called the bay they had })eei in Po '^ssion Bay. As soon as the boat was hoisted in, they made s. ' along the coast to the east, for the space of eleven or twelve k.., lies, to aprojectii:g point, which obtained the name of Catpe Saunders. Beyond this cape is a pretty large bay, whicli is named Cumberland Bay. On the 20th, they fell in with an island, which they named the II K i| el cJ lal 8t HI ih\ m nel cook's second voyage, 1772 — 1775. 69 that nothing lerable place might bring the cutter, to its, which re- tie old lions ■ blubber, or ere tolerable, frelish. But lesh of some ten o'clock, had found a ^ape St. John. near a mik d such an in- en disturbed, r. This they t worse than overed occa- • i, they saw it t nine o'clock as they then 9 ice or land; On the 16th, imorning they ear the shore, t, accompa- econnoitring fterwards de- and horrible. were lost in ting snow.— gh to make a la Is as in tlie red, in addi- ery morning ■red hy most :tily tired of le penguins h, was suffi- y had l)eei |ted in, they f eleven or the name of bay, whicli named the Isle of Georgia, in honour of his Majesty. It extends thirty-one leagues in length ; and its greatest breadth is about ten leagues. It seems to abound with baj^s and harbours, the N. E. coast especially ; but the vast quantity of ice coast renders them inac cessible the greatest part of the year. From the 20th to the 27th they had a continuation of foggy weather, lliey now growing almost tired of high southern latitudes, where nothing was to be found but ice and thick fogs, stood to the east, when they soon fell in, all at once, with a vast number of large ice-lands, and a sea strewed with loose ice. For this reason they tacked, and stood to the west, with the wind at north. The ice-lands, which at this time surrounded them, were nearly all of equal height, and shewed a flat even surface. i On the 1st of Febniary, they got sight of a new coast It proved a high promontory, which was named Cape Montagu ; but prudence would not permit them to venture near shore,wfer-e- fiiere was no anchorage, and where every port was blocked or filled up with ice ; and the whole country, from the summits of liie mountains down to the very brink of the cliffs, which tcrmi- Wfite the coast, covered, many fathoms thick, with everlasting snow. ;. It was now necessary to take a view of the land to the north, ijefore they proceeded any farther to the east. On the 3rd they Sfiw two isleSn The day in which they were discovered, was the occasion of calling them Candlemas Isles. They were of no great tetent, but of considerable height, and were covered with snow. On the 4th, they resumed their course to the east. About noon jiiiey met with several ice-islands, arfl some loose ice,[the weather Opntinuing hazy, with snow and rain. Oil the 22nd of February, as they were within two degrees of longitude from their route to the south, when they left the Cape of Good Hope, it was to no purpose to proceed any farther to the fkst under this parallel, knowing that no land could be there, hey had now made the circuit of the Southern Ocean in a high ktitude, and traversed it in such a manner as to leave not the least room for the possibility of there being a continent, unless pear the pole, and out of the reach of navigation. By twice visiting the tropical sea, they had not only settled the situation of some old discoveries, but made there many new ones, and left fcry little more to be done in that part. Thus the intention of ike voyage had, in every respect, beon fully answered; the •oiithern hemisphere sufficiently explored ; and a final end put |p the searching of a southern continent. # Their sails and rigging were so much worn, that something ras giving way every nour ; and they had nothing left either to Bpair or replace them. Their provisions were in a state of decay, nd yielded little nourishment, and they had been a long time rtthout refreshments. The sailors, indeed, were yet healthy, and rould have cheerfully gone wherever th«y were led ; but they t^ J0 I ^w** \'^ 'l-.v 70 cook's second voyage, 1772 — 1775. dreaded the sciiWy laying hold of them, at a time when they had nothing left to remove it. It would, however, have beeii cruel to have continued the fatigues and hardships they were con- tinually exposed to, longer than was absolutely necessary. Tliei' behaviour, throughout the whole voyage, merited every in- dulgence which it was possible to give them. Animated by the conduct of the officers, they shewed themselves capable of sur- mounting every difficulty and danger which came m their way, and never once looked either upon one or the other, as bein? at all heightened, by their separation from their consort, tlk Adventure. On the 12th, they put a boat into the water, and shot some alba- trosses and peterels, which, at this time, were highly acceptable, every one was now become impatient to get into port ; this in. duced the captain to yield to the general wish, and to steer I'nr the Cape of Good Hope. The captain now demanded of the officers and petty officers, the log-books and journals they liad kept ; which were delivered accordingly, and sealed up for the inspection of the Admiralty. He also enjoined them, and tlie whole crew, not to divulge where they had been, till they had their lordship's permission so to do. In the evening of the 17th, they saw land about six leagues dis tant. Next day, having little or no wind, they hoisted out a hoar and sent on-board a ship which was about two leagues from them; but they were too impatient after news to regard the distanoe.- Soon after three sail more appeared in sight to windward, one ol ' which shewed English colours. The boat returning, reported that they had visited a Dutcli East Indiaman, whose captain very obligingly offered them sugar arrack, and whatever he had to spare. They were told h; . some English seamen on-board, that the Adventure had ai rived at the Cape of Good Hope twelve months ago, and that the crew of one of her boats had been murdered and eaten by thepeople of New Zealand. On the 19th the True Briton, Captain Broadly, from China, bore down to them. As this ship did not intend to touch at tlie Cape, the captain put a letter on board for the secretary ot'tlit Admiralty. The melancholy account which they had heard of the Adventure was now confirmed. From this ship they procured a parcel of old newspapers, which were new to them, and gave them some amusement ; but these were the least favours they re ceived from Captain Broadly. With a generosity peculiar to the commanders of the India Company's ships, he sent theni fresh provisions, tea, and other articles, which were very accepta ble. In the afternoon thej^ parted company. The Tnie Briton stood out to sea, and they in for the land. Tlie next morning, being with them Wednesday the 22nd^ but with the people here Tuesday the 21st, they anchored in Tablf Bay, where they found several Dutch ships ; some French ; an^ r e when they ir, have been ley were con- essary. Tliei' »d every in- mated by the pable of sur- in their \^-ay, her, as bein? consort, the lot some albn- ly acceptable, port ; this in d to steer lor anded of the rnals they had led up for the hem, and the , till they had ;ix leagues (lis- ted out a boat les from them; he distanre.- idward, onool' isited a Dutcli ;d them sugar were told b; . iture had ai igo, and thai and eaten by , from China, 3 touch at tk cretary oftlit id heard of tk jy procured a ;m, and gave ours they re peculiar to le sent theni [Very accepta Tnie Britoii the 32nd, but [red in Tablf i'rench-, ad cook's second voyage, 1772 — 1775. n tlie Ceres, Captain Newte, an English East India Company's ship, from China, bound directly U) England, by whom they sent a copy of the preceding part of this journal, some charts, and other drawings, to the Admiralty. Before they had well got to an anchor, the captain dispatched an oflicer to at quaint the governor with their arrival, and to request the necessary stores and refresh • ments, which were readily granted. The captain now learned that they Adventure had called here on lier return ; and he found a letter from Captain Furneaux, acquainting him with the loss of his boat, and with ten of his best men, in Queen Charlotte's Sound. The following particulars Captain Cook learnt after his arrival in England, concerning the progress of the Adventure after separation. " In October, 1773, thev were blown off the coast of New Zealand; when they parted company with the Resolution, and never saw her afterwards. They combated violent storms -till the 6th of November ; when, being to the north of Cape Palliser, they bore away for some bay to complete their water and wood, being in great want of both ; having been at the alloyvance of one quart of water for some days past ; and even that pittance could not be come at above six or seven days longer. They anchored at Tolaga Bay. Wood and water are easily to be had. Having got about ten tons, and some wood, they sailed for Charlotte Sound on the 12th ; but violent weather prevented them from reaching it till the 30th. They saw nothing of the Resolution, and began to doubt her safety : but, on going on-shore, they discerned the place where she had erected her tents ; and, on an old stump of a tree in the garden, observed these words cut out, ^ Look underneath.' There they dug, and soon found a bottle, corked and waxed down, with a letter in it from Captain Cook, signifying their arrival on the 3rd instant, and departure on the 24th, and that they intended spending a few days in the entrance of the straits to look for them. '*They immediately set about the necessar}-^ repairs of the sliip, ivhich employed them till the 16th of Decemlier. Next day they I'.ent their large cutter, with Mr. Rowe, a midshipman, and the boats crew, to gather wild greens for the ship's company ; with orders to return that evening, as they intended to sail the next morning. But, on the boat's not returning the same evening, nor the next morning, the second lieutenant, Mr. Burney, in tlie launch, manned with the ooat's crew, and ten marines, went in .search of her. Mr. Burney returned about eleven o'clock i t He saiae night, and informed them of a horrible scene indeed, I whkh cannot be better described than in his own words : — "On the 18th, we left the ship ; and having a Ught breeze in our favour, we soon got roimd Long-Island, I examined every cove, on the larboard hand, as we went along, lookin^f well all around >\ith a telescope. At half-past one, we stopped at a beach on the left-hand side going up East Bay, to boil some IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) 1.0 1.1 IfilM 12.5 150 "^ M^H US y^ 1122 lAo mil 2.0 111.25 i 1.4 1.6 Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. MSSO (716) 872-4503 72 cook's second voyage, 1772 — 177C. n f victuals. Whilst we were cooking, I saw an Indian on the opposite shore, running along a beach to the head of me bay. Our meat being drest, we got into the boat, and put oJOT; an^, in a short time, arrived at the head of the reach^ where we saw an Indian settlement. ' " As we drew near, some of the Indians came down to the rocks, and waved for us to be gone ; but seeing we disregarded them, they altered their notes. Here we found six large canoes hauled up on the beach, most of them double ones, and a great many people. Leaving the boat's crew to guard the boat, I stepped on shore with the marines, (the corporal and five men,) and searched a good many of their houses ; but found nothing to give me any suspicion. Coming down to the beach, one of the Indians had brought a bundle of hepatoos, (long spears,) but seeing I looked very earnestly at him, he put them on the ground, and walked about with seeming unconcern. Some of the people appearing to be frightened, I gave a looking-glass to one, and a large nail to another. Froni this place the bay ran, as nearly as I could guess, a good mile. I looked all round with the glass, but saw no boat, canoe, or any sign of inhabitant. I therefore contented myself by firing some guns, which I had done in every cove as I went along. '"I now kept close to the east-shore, and came to another settlement, where the Indians invited us on-shore. I inquired of them about the boat, but they pretended ignorance. They appeared very friendly here, and sold us some fish. Within an hour after we had left this place, in a small beach adjoining to Grass Cove, jwe saw a very large double canoe just hauled up, mih two men and a dog. The men, on seeing us, left their canoe, and ran up into the woods. This gave me reason to suspect I should here get tidings of the cutter. We went on- shore, and searched the canoe, where we found one of the rul- lock-ports of the cutter, and some shoes, one of which was known to belong to Mr. Woodhouse, one of our midshipmen. One of the people, at the same time, brought me a piece of meat, which he took to be some of the salt meat belong^g to the cutter's crew. On examining this, and smelling to it, I found it was fresh. Mr. Fannin (the master) who was with me, supposed it was dog's flesh, and I was of the same opinion ; for I still doubted their being cannibals. But we were soon convinced by the most horrid and undeniable proof. * " A gnt'eat many baskets (about twenty) lying on the beach, tied up, we cut them open. Some were lull of roasted flesh, and some of fem-root, which serves them for bread. On farther search, we found more shoes, and a hand, which we imme- diately knew to have belonged to Thomas Hill, one of our forecastle-men, it bein^ marked T. H. with an Otaheite tattow- instrument. I went with seme of the people a little way up the woods, but saw nothing else. Coming down again, there was a cook's second voyage, 1772 — 1775. 78 lian on the of me bay. it off; and, tiere we saw Jown to the disregarded arge canoes and a great the boat, I i five men,) and nothing ;ach, one of >ng spears,) them on tha n. Some of dng-glass to the bay ran, sd all round if inhabitant, which I bad J to another I inquired mce. They ih. Within ch adjoining Just hauled us, left their Le reason to I'e went on- ) of the rul- ■ which was nidshipmen. ece of meat, \gmg to the it, I found it le, supposed ; for 1 still onvinced by the beach, ;d flesh, and On farther 1 we imme- one of our leite tattow- way up the there was a round spot, covered with fresh earth, about four feet diameter, where something had been buried. Having no spade, we began to dig with a cutlass ; and in the mean time I launched the canoe >vith intent to destroy her ; but, seeing a great smoke ascending over the nearest hill, I got all the people into the boat, and mack what haste [ could to be with them before sun-set. " On opening the next bay, which was Grass Cove, we saw four canoes, and a great many people on the beach, who, on our approach, retreated to a small hill, within a sliip's length of the water side, where they stood talking to us. A large tire was on the top of the high land, beyond the woods, whence, all the way down the hill, the place was thronged like a fair. The savages on the Uttle hill still kept hallooing, and making signs for us to land ; however, as soon as we got close in, we all fired. The first volley did not seem to affect them much ; but, on the second, they began to scramble &wa\ as fast as they could, some of them howling. We continued firing as long as we could see the glimpse of any of them through the bushes. Among the Indians were two very stout men, who never offered to move till they found themselv js forsaken by their companions : and then they marched away with great composure and deliberation, tlieir pride not suffering them to run. One of them, however, got a fall, and either lay there, or crawled off on aU-fours. The other got clear, without any apparent hurt. I then landed with the marines, and Mr. Fannin staid to guard the boat. " On the beach were two bundles of celery, which had been fathered for loading the cutter. A broken oar was stuck upright in the ground, to which the natives had tied their canoes ; a proof that the attack had been made here. I then searched all along at the back of the beach, to see if the cutter was there. We found no boat, but instead of her, such a shocking scene of car- nage and barbarity, as can never be mentioned or thought of but with horror ; for the heads, hearts, and lungs of several of our people were seen lying on the beach ; and at a Uttle distance the dogs gnawing their entrails. *' Whilst we remained almost stupified on the spot, Mr. Fannin called to us that he heard the savages gathering together in the woods ; on which I returned to the boat, and hauling along-side the canoes, we demolished three of tliem. Whilst this was transacting, the lire on the top of the hill disappeared, and we could hear the Indians in the woods at high words ; I sup- pose quarrelUng whether they should attack us, and try to save their canoes. It now grew dark ; I, therefore, just stepped out, and looked once more behind the beach„ to see if the cutter hi^ been hauled up in the bushes, but, seeing nothing of her, re- turned, and put off. Our whole force would have been bajdy sufficient to have gone up the hill ; and to have ventui«d with half, (for half must bftve been left to guard the boat) would have been fool-hardiness. • E 4 74 COOK*S SECOND VOYAGE, 1772 — 1775. it I S As we opened the upper part of the Sound, we saw a verj large fire about three or four miles higher up, which formed a complete oval, reaching from the top ol a hill down almost to the water side, the middle space being enclosed all round by the fire, like a h-^dge. I consulted with Mr. Fannin, and we were both of opinion, that we could expect to reap no other advantage than the poor satisfaction of killing some more of the savages. " Coming between two round islands, situated to the south- ward of East Bay, we imagined we heard somebody calling ; wc lay on our oars, and listened, but heard no more of it ; we hal- looed several times, but to little purpose ; Ihe poor souls were far enough out of hearing : and, indeed, I think it some comfort to reflect, that, in all probability, ever' man of them must have been killed on the spot." They were detained in the Sound, by contrary winds, four days after this melancholy aflfair happened, during which time they saw none of the inhabitants. On the 23rd, they weighed, ana made sail out of the Sound, and stood to the eastward, but were baffled for two or three days with light winds, before tliey could clear the coast. January the 10th, 1774, they arrived abreast of Cape Horn. They were very little more than a month sailing from Cape Palliser, in New Zealand, to Cape Horn, which is 121 deg. of longitude. On opening some casks of peas and flour that had been stowed on the coals, they found them very much damaged, and not eatable, so thought it most prudent to make for the Cape of Good Hope. On the 1 7th of February, they made the land of the Cap6 of Good Hope, and on the 19th anchored in Table Bay, where they found Cfommodore Sir Edward Hughes, with his Majesty's ships, Salisbury and Seahorse. On the 16th of April, Captain Fumeaux sailed for England, and on the 14th of July anchored at Spithead. We now return to Captain Cook. The day after his arrival at the Cape of Good Hope, he waited on the governor. Baron Plettenberg, and other principal officers, who received and treated him with the greatest politeness. They had only three men on-board, whom it was thought ne- cessary to send on-shore for the recovery of their health ; and for these the captain procured quarters, at the rate of thirty sli- vers, or half a-crown per day, for which they were provided with victuals, drink, and lodging. On examining the rudder, it was found necessary to unhang • it, and take it on-shore to repair. They were also delayed for want of caulkers. At length they obtained two workmen from - one of the Dutch ships ; and the Dutton, English East Indiaman, coming in from Bengal, Captain Rice obliged Captain Cook with two more, so that by the 26th of April this work was finished ; ' and having got on-board all necessarv'- stores, and a fresh supply of provisions and water, they took leave of the governor, h i cook's second voyage, 1772 — 1775. rft we saw a verj hich formed a I almost to the nd by the fire, we were both dvantage than ^ages. 1 to the soutl). y calling ; Wf> of it ; we hal- souls were far me comfort to m must have y winds, four ig which time they weighed, eastward, but s, before tlwy they arrived ; than a month e Horn, which \ been stowed ged, and not the Cape of e the land of in Table Bay, hes, with his leth of April, 14th of July his an-jivat at jrnor. Baron |*eceived and thought ne- I health; and of thirty sli- Irovided with to unhang delayed ibr [rkmen from |t Indiaman, Cook with finished ; |resh supply governor, and other principal oiTlcers, and the next morning repaired on-board. At day-break in the morning of the 1 6th of May, they saw the island oi St. Helena, at the distance of fourteen leagiies; and at midnight anchored in the road before the town. During their stay here, they finished some necessary flairs of the ship, which they had not time to do at the Cape. They also filled all their empty water-casks ; and the crew were served with fresh beefj purchased at five pence per pound. Their beef is exceedingly good, and is the only refreshment they had worth mentioning. On the 21st of May, the captain took leave of the governor, and repaired on-board. Upon leaving the shore, he was saluted with thirteen guns, which he returned. In the morning of the 28th, they made the Island of Ascension ; and the same evening anchored in Cross Bay. They remained here till the evening of the 31st ; and, notwithstanding they had-several parties out every ni ht, they got but twenty-four turtles, it being rather too late in tlie season ; however, as they weighed between four and five hundred pounds each, they were pretty well off. Tlie island is about ten miles in length, and about five or six in breadth. It shews a surface composed of barren hills and vallies, on the most of which not a shrub or plant is to be seen for several miles, and where they found nothing but stones and sand, or rather flags and ashes ; an indubitable sign that the isle, at some remote time, had been destroyed by a volcano^ which has thrown up vast heaps of stones, and even hills. Between these heaps of stones they found a smooth, even sur- face, composed of ashes and sand^ and very good travelling upon it ; but one may as easily walk over broken glass-bott^s as over the stones. Turtles are to be found at this isle from January to June. The method of catching them is to have people upon the several san^v bays, to watch their coming on-shore to lay their eggs^ which is always in the night, and then to turn them on their bsckfl, till there be an opportunity to take them off the next cfc»y. It is recommended to send a good many men to each beach, where they were to lie quiet till the turtles were a.-shore, and then rise, and turn them up at once. This method may be the best when the turtles are numerous; but, when there are but few, three or four men are sufficient for the largest beach ; and if they keep patroling it, close to the wash of the surf, during the night, bv this method they will see all that come a-shore, and cause less noise than if there were more of tliera. It was by this method they caught the most ; and this is the method by which the Americans take them. Nothing is more certain, than that all the turtles which are found about this island, come here for the sole purpose of laying their eggs^ for tliey met with none but females ; and of all those which were caught, not one had any food worth mentioning in its i6 cook's second voyage, 1772 — 1775. gtomach ; a sure sign that they must have been a long time without any ; and this may be the reason why the flesh of them is not so ^ood as some they eat on the coast of New South Wales, which were caught on the spot where they fed. On the 9th of June, at noon, made the island of Fernando de Noronha, bearing south-west-by-west half-west, distant six or seven leagues, as they afterwards found by the log. It appeared in detached and peaked hills, the largest of whicn looked like a cliurch-tower, or steeple. ^ ^ • •After standing very near rocks, they hoisted their colours, and then bore up round the north-end of the isle, or rather round a group of little islets ; for they could see that the land was divided by narrow channels. Inere is a strong fort on the one next the main island, where there are several others^ all of which seemed to have every advantage that nature can give them, and they are so disposed, as wholiv to command all the anchoring ana landing-places about the island. This .road seems to be well sheltered from the south and east winds. One of the seamen had been on-board a Dutch India ship, who put in at that isle on her way out in 1770. They were very sickly, and in want of refreshments and water. The Por- tuguese supplied them with some buffaloes and fowls, and they watered benind one of the beaches in a little pool. By reducing the observed latitude, at noon, to the peaked hill, its latitu^ will be 3 deg. 63 min. south, and its longitude, by the watcii carried on from St. Helena, is 32 deg. 34 min. west. On the 11th, at three o'clock in the afternoon, they crossed the equator in the longitude of 33 deg. 14 min. west. At five o^lock in the evening of the 13th July, made the island of Fayal, one of the Azores, and soon after that of Pico. Fresh provisions for present uiSe may be got, such as beef, vegetables, and fruit ; and hogs, sheep, and poultry for sea-stock, all at a pretty rea- sonable price. The bullocks and hogs are very good, but the sheep are small alid wretchedly poor. The principal produce of Fayal is wheat and Indian com, with which they supply Pico and some of the other isles. The chief town is called villa De Horta. It is situated in the bottom of the bay, close to the ed^ of the sea, and is defended by two castles, one at each end of the town, and a Wall of stone-work, extending along the sea- shore from the one to the other. Fayal, although the most noted for wines, does not raise sufficient for its own consump- tion. This article is raised at Pico, where there is no road for shipping; but being brought to De Horta, and from thenoe shipped abrofeid, chiefly to America, it has acquired the name of Fayal wine. On the 29th, they made the land near Plymouth. The next morning anchored at Spithead : and the sat^e day Captain Cook lahd^d at Portsmouth ■., and set out for Lokul n, in company with 'Meiisrs. Wales, Forstets, and Hodges. M a long time flesh of them ' New South fed Fernando de istant six or It appeared looked like a heir eolours, rather round the land was rt on the one ij all of which ve them, and he anchoring outh and east Dutch India They were r. The Por- wls, and they By reducing II, its latitude [by the watch they crossed est. At five and of Fayal; sh provisions , and fruit ; I pretty ree- ood, but the J produce of supply Pico ed Villa De to the edge each end of g the sea- h the most Cdnsump- 10 road tor rom thenoe fche name of The next [ptfdn Cook ipany wth 77 COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE, 1770—1780. The discoveries of Captain Cook were too valuable, and his skill as a navigator too evident, not to render it desirable that h« should be actively employed ; and as his Majesty's government had determined on a new attempt to decide the long agitated question, of a northern passage to the Pacific Ocean, he was se- lected to command the expedition, having previously been ap- pointed a post-captain. On the 10th of Februaiy, 1776, Captain Cook went on-board his Majesty's sloop, tfie Resolution, and hoisted the pendant, having received a commission to command her the preceding day. The Discovery, of three hundred tons, was at the same time, prepared for the service, and Captain Gierke, his second lieutenant in the preceding voyage, was appointed to the com- mand of her. These two ships were equipped in the Dock atDeptford, un4&r the direction of Captain Cook. The Resolution was hauled into the river on the 9th of March, to complete her rigging, and take in stores and provisions for the voyage. Both ships^ indeed, were abundantly supplied with everv thing requisite for a long voyage. They sailed on the 29th of May, and arrived the next day at Long Reach, where the powder and shot, and other ordnance stores, were received. On the 8th of June, while they lay in Long Reach, they had ^; tlie satisfaction of a visit from the Earl of Sandwich, Sir Hugh j Palliser, and others of the Board of Admiralty, to examiiM whether every thing had been completed pursuant to their orders, and the convenience of those who \^ere to embark. They : honoured Captain Cook with their company to dinner on that day ; and were saluted on their coming on-board, and on their going a-shore, with seventeen guns and three cheers. To convey some permanent benefit to the inhabitants of Otaheite, and of the other islands which they might happen to visit, his Meyesty commanded some useful animab to be taken out ; and on the 10th, they took on-board a bull, two cows viith their calves, and some sheeji, with hay and com for their sup- port. They were also furnished with a sufficient quantity of I 111:' f I. 11 Mil 78 cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. valuable European garden seeds, yvhich might add fresh supplies of food to tlie vegetable productions of the newly-discovered islands. Both the ships, b> order of the Board of Admiralty, were amply supplied with an extensive assortment of iron tools and trinkets, to facilitate a friendly commerce and intercourse with the inhabitants of such new countries as they might discover. With respect to their own wants, nothing was refused them that might be conducive to health, comfort, or convenience. Those at the head of the naval department were equally soli- citous to render the voyage of public utility ; accordinglv, they received on-board, the next day, several astronomical ana nauti- cal instruments, which the Board of Longitude entrusted to Captain Cook, and Mr. King, his second lieutenant ; they having engaged to supply the place of a professed observator. The Board likewise put into their possession the time-keeper which Captain Cook had carried out m his last voyage, and which had performed so well. It was constructed by Mr. Kendall, and was a copy of Mr. Harrison's. Another time-keeper, and the same assortment of astronomical and other instruments, were put on- board the Discovery, for the use of Mr. William Bayly, a dili- ?ent and skilful observator, who was engaged to emos laptain Clerke. Mr. Anderson, surgeon to Captain Cook, added to his pro- fessional abilities a great knowledge of natural history. He had already visited^ the South Sea Islands in the same ship, and ena- bled the captain to enrich his relation of (he preceding voyage with remarks of use and value. Though several young men, amon^ the sea-officers, were capa- ble of being employed in constructing charts, drawing plans, and taking views of tlie coast and head-lands, Mr. Webber was engaged to embark with Captain Cook, for the purpose of sup- plying the defects of written accounts, by taking accurate and masterly drawings of the most memorable scenes of their transac- tions. The necessary preparations being completed. Captain Cook received orders to proceed to Plymouth, and to take the Dis- covery under his command. In consequence of which, he ordered Captain Clerke to carry his ship also round to Plymouth. The Resolution, with the Discovery in company, sailed from Loug Reach on the 15th of June, and anchored at the Nore the same evening. The Discovery proceeded the next day, in obedience to Captain Cook's order, and the Resolution remained at the Nore till Captain Cook, who was then in London, should join her. It being their intention to touch at Otaheite and the Society Islands, it had been determined to carry Omai back to his native country : accordingly. Captain Cook and he set out from London early on the 24th, and reached Chatham between ten and eleven f: cook's third VofAOE, 1776 — 1780. 79 resh supplies y-discovered liralty, were 'on tools and jrcourse with ght discover, ied them that nee. equally soli- irdingly, they cal and nauti- entrusted to ; they having Tvator. The keeper which nd which had dallj and was and the same were put on- Bayly^ a dili- emoark with id to his pro- ary. He had lip^ and ena- ding voyage s, were capa- Eiwing plans, Webber was rpose of sup- iccurate and their transac- iptain Cook ike the DLs- I, he ordered louth. sailed from le Nore the ;xt day^ in )n remained lon^ should I the Society |o hh native )m London and eleven o'clock, where they dined with Commissioner Proby, who after- terwards ordered his yacht to convey them to Sheerness, wl»ere the captain's boat was waiting to take them on-board the Reso- lution. Though Omai lel't London with some degree of regret, when he reflected upon the favours and indulgencies he had received, J ret when mention was made of his own islands, his eyes spark- ed with ioy. He entertained the highest ideas of this country and its inhabitants, but the pleasing prospect of returning home, loaded with what would be deemed invaluable treasures there, and of obtaining a distinguished superiority among his country- men, operated so far as to suppress every uneasy sensation ; and when he got on-board the ship, he appeared to be quite happy. Omai .was furnished by his Majesty, with quantities of every article that were supposed to be in estimation at Otaheite. rfe also received several presents fro*ii Lord Sandwich, Mr. Banks, and many others. Every method had, indeed, been employed durinc; his abode in England, and at his departure, to make him the instrument of conveying to his countrymen an exalted opi- nion of British greatness and generosity. About noon, on the 25th, they weighed anchor, and made sail for the Downs, with a gentle breeze at north-west by west. At nine, the same day, they anchored vvith the North Foreland bear- ing south by east, and Margate Point south-west by south. On the 26th, at two o'clock, they weighed, and stood round the Foreland ; and at eight o'clock the same morning anchored in the Downs. Here Captain Cook received two boats on-board, which had been built for him at Deal, and the next day at two o-'clock in the afternoon, they got under sail, but the breeze soon died a\%iiy, and they anchored again. At ten o'clock, the same night, they weighed again, and proceeded down the Chan- nel. They anchored in Plymouth Sound on the 30th, at thsee o'clock in the afternoon, the Discovery having arrived three days before. On the 8th of July, Captain Cook received his instruc- tions for the voyage, and an order to proceed to the Cape of Good Hope with the Resolution ; with directions also to leave an order for Captain Clerke to follow him, as soon as he should join his ship, he being at that time in London. ^ The officers and men on-board the Resolution (including ma- rines) were one hundred and twelve, and those on-board the Discovery were eighty. On the 10th of July, the proper persons came on-board, and paid the officers and crew up to the 30th of June. _ The petty officers and seamen received also two months wages in advance. On the morning of the 11th, Captain Cook delivered into the hands of Mjp. Burney, first Ueutenant of the Discoverer, Captain Clerke 's saiUng orders ; a cop^ of which he also lelt with the conimanding officer of his Majesty's ships at Plymouth, to be delivered to the captain on his arrival. In the afternoon they 80 cook's thiud voyage, 1776—1780. ,i i weighed with the ebb, and got out beyond all the shipping in the Sound, where they were detained most of the following day. At eight o'clock, in the evening, they weighed again and stood out ofthe Sound, with a gentle breeze at north-west by west. On the 16th, at noon, the hght-house of St. Agnes, on the isles of Sicily, bore north-west by west, distant about seven or eight miles; and on the 17th and 18th, they were off Ushant. On the 19tli, they stood westward till eight o'clock in the morning, when the wind shifted, and they tacked and stretched to the south- ward : they beheld nine sail of large ships, which were supposed to be French men of war. On the 22nd, at ten in the morning, they saw Cape Ortegal about four leagues distant, on the after- noon of the 24th, they passed Cape Finisterre, with a fine ^ale at north north-east. Capt. Cook determined to touch at Tenenife, to get a supply of hay and corn for the subsistence of the ani- mals on board, as well as the usual refreshments for themselves. They saw Teneriffe on the 31st of July, at four in the afternoon ; and at day-li^ht on the Ist of August, they sailed round the^east point of that island, and anchored on the soutli-side, in the road of Santa Cruz, about eight o'clock, in tv\'enty-three fathoms' xnter. Immediately after anchoring, they received a visit from the master of the port, who asked the ship's name. Upon his retir- ing. Captain Cook sent an officer a-shore, to present his respects to tlie governor, and ask his permission to take in water, and to purchase such articles as were necessary. The governor very politely complied with Captain Cook's request, and sent an officer on-board to compliment him on his arrivaf. in the after- noon Captain Cook waited upon him, accompanied by some of the officers ; and before he returned to his ship bespoke some com and straw, ordering a quantity of wine, and made an agree- ment for a supply of water. The road of Santa Cruz is situated on the south-east side of die island, before the town of the same name. It is said to be the principal road of Teneriffe for shelter, capacity, and tJie goodness of its bottom. The water to supply the shipping, and for the use of the inhabitants of Santa Cfruz, is derived from a rivulet that runs from the hills, which is conveyed into the town in wooden troughs. As these troughs were at tliis time repair- ing, fresh water was extremely scarce. From the appearance of the country about Santa Cruz, it might naturally be concluded that Teneriffe is a barren spot; they were convinced, however, from the ample supplies they re- ceived, that it not only produced sufficient to supply its own inhabitants, but also enough to spare for visitors. Though wine is the chief produce of this island, beef may be had at about three pence sterling a pound; the oxen, however, are small, lean, and bony. Sheep, goats, hogs, and poultry, may be had on terms equally reasonable. A great variety of fruits are to be I cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. 8t le shifipiug in following day. aiii and stood st by west. i, on the isles even or eight lant. On the lorning, when to tlie sduth- 'ere supposed the morning, on the after- h a fine ^alc tiatTeneriife, ce of the ani- r themselves, le afternoon ; [)und the east i, in the road tree fathoms' isit from the pon his retir- Lt his respects mAer, and to ovemor very and sent an In the after- by some of spoke some e an agree- i-east side of said to be |ty, and tlie lipping, and ^ved from a tto the town time repair- uz, it might spot; they fes they re- )ly its own lough wine Id at about are small, ^ay be had are to be had in plenty, as pears, figp., grapes^ mulberries, musk mellons, &€. besides others that were not tlien in season. The pumpkins, potatoes, and onions which grow here, are excellent. Indian corn is produced on this island, and is sold at about three shillings and sixpence per bushel : the fruits and vegetables are, in general, very cneap. Though the inhabitants are but in- diflerently supplied with nsh from the adjoining seas, tliey are engaged m a considerable fishery on the coast of Barbary, and the produce of it sells at a very moderate price. Teneriffe is certainly a more eligible place than Madeira,for ships to touch at which are bound on long voyages ; but the wine of the latter is infinitely superior to that of the former : the difierenoe of their prices is almost as considerable as their qualities, for the best Teneriflfe wine was sold for twelve pounds a pipe, whereas a pipe of the best Madeira was worth considerably mor« than double that sum. Behind tlie town of Santa Cruz, the country rises gradusdly to a moderate height ; afterwards it continues to rise soum-westward towards (tie celebrated peak of Teneriffe. But they were much disappointed in their expectations with respect to its appearance.^ The island, eastward of Santa Cruz, appears perfectly barren. Ridges of the high hills run towards the sea, between are deep vallies, terminating at mountains tlat run across and are higher than the former. On the 1st of August, in the afternoon, Mr. Anderson, (Capt. Cook's surgeon) went on-shore to one of these vallies^ intend- ing to reach the top of the remoter hills, but time would not pennit him to get farther than their foot. The lower hills pro- duce great quantities of ihe euphorbia Canariensia. The people on the spot imagine its Juice to be so caustic as to erode the skin ; but Mr. Anderson convinced them to the contrary, by thrusting his finger into a plant full of it. The inhabitants drv the bushes of .the euphorbia , and carry them home for fuel. Santa Cruz, though not large, is a well-built citv. Their churches have not a magnificent appearance without, but they are decent, and tolerably handsome within. Almost facing the stone pier, which runs into the sea from the town, is a marble column, lately erected, enriched with human figures, which reflect honour on the statuary. On the 2nd of August, in the afternoon, Mr. Anderson and three others hired mules to ride to the city of Laguna, about the distance of four miles from Santa Cruz. They arrived there - 1 between five and six in the evening, but the sight of it did not m reward them for their trouble, as the roads were very bad, and I the cattle but indifierent. Though the place is extensive, it I I * lu Sparto'a History of the Roval Society, page 200, 6cc. is an account of a journey -^ to the top of the peak of Teneriffe. A modem traveller, viz. the Chevalier de Borda, '[if, who meaaored the heisht of this mountain in August 1776, makes it 12,340 English feet. t Humboldt who carefully examined the peak makes its height 12,072 feet.—JStfi/or. J E3 • ■t t V ^ i. 82 cook's third VOYACfi, 1776—1780. hardly deserves to be dignified with the name of a city. There are some good houses, but the disposition of the streets is very irregular. Laguna is larger than Santa Cruz^ but much inferior to it in appearance. The ropd from Santa Cruz to Laguna^ runs up a deep, barren hill ; but, lower down, we saw some hg-trees and corn-fields. The corn, however, is not produced here without great labour, the ground being greatly encumbered with stones. Nothing else presented itself, deserving notice, except a few aloe plantti in flower on the side of the road. ^ The laborious work in this island is chiefly performed b^ mules, horses being scarce, and reserved for the use of the offi- cers. Oxen »ire also much employed here Some hawks and parrots were seen, which are natives of the island ; as also the sea-swallow, sea-gidls, partridges, swallows, canarv birds, and black-birds. There are also h/ards, locusts, and three or four Sorts of dragon-flies. Mr. Anderson was informed, bv a gentleman of acknowledged veracity, that a shrub is common here, agreeing exactly with the description given by Linnaeus of the tea-shrub, as growing in China and Japan. It is considered as a weed, and large quan- tities are rooted out of the vineyards every year, liie Spa- niards, however, who inhabit the island, sometimes make us^ ot it, and ascribe to it all the qualities of the tea imported from China. The same gentleman mentioned to Mr. Anderson another bo- tanical curiosity, which is called the impregnated lemon. It is a distinct and perfect lemon inclosed within another. A certain sort of grape growing here, is deemed an excellent remedy in phthisical complaints. The air and climate are re- markably healthful, and particularly adapted to afford relief in such complaints. By residing at differt ut heights in the island^ it is in the power of any one to procure such a temperature ol' air as may be best suited to^ his constitution. He may continue where it is mild and salubrious, or he may ascend till the cold becomes intolerable. No person, it is said, can live comfort- ably within a mile of the perpendicular height of the peak, after the month of August. Smoke continually issues from near the top of the peak, but they have had no earthquake or eruption since 1704, when the port of Carachia was destroyed, being filled up by the rivers of burning lava that flowed into it ; and hotises are now built where ships formerly lay at anchor. The trade of Teneriffe is very extensive, forty thousand pipes of wine being annually made there ; which is consumed in the island or made into brandy, and sent to the Spanish West In- dies. Indeed the wine is the only considerable article of the foreign commerce of Teneriffe, unless we reckon the large quantities of filtering stones brought from Grand Canary. The race of inhabitants found here when the Spaniards dis- 1 It cook's third VOYAOn, 1776 — 1780. 83 El city. There streets is very much inferior I deep, barren nd corn-fields, great labour, lies. Nothing sw aloe plants performed by [ise of the oin> me hawks and i ; as also the iry birds, and three or four acknowledged xactly with the as growing in id large quan- IT. llie Spa- ;s make usp ot mported from )n another bo- Icmon. It is a an excellent iimate are re- ford relief in in the island, smperature of Imay continue till the cold live comfort- le peak^ after *om near the or eruption oyed, being into it; and tchor. tusand pipes fumed in the ihWestln- Irticle of the in the large inary. laniards dis- I; 4 covered the Canaries, are no longer a distinct people, having intermarried with the Spanish settlers ; their descendants, how- ever, may be known, from their being remarkably tall, stvong^ and large-boned. The men are tawny, and the women are pale. The inhabitants of Teneriffe, in general, are decent, grave, and civil ; retaining that solemn cast which distinguishes those of their country from others. Though we are not of opi- nion that our manners are similar to those of the Spaniards^ yet Omai declared, he did not think there was raucn difference. He said, indeed, that they did not appear to be so friendly as the English : and that tlieir persons nearly resembled those of his countrymen. Having got their water and other articles on-board^ they weighed anchor on the 4th of August, quitted Tenerifte, and proceeded on their voyage. On the loth, at nine o'clock in tlv evening, they saw the island of Bonavista bearing south, distant about a leagite; though diev then thought themselves much further off, but it soon appeared they were mistaken ; for, after hauling to the eaatward, to clear the sunken rocks that lie near the south-east point of the island, they found themselves close upon them and barely weathered the breakers. Their situation was for some minutes, so very alarming, tliat Captain Cook, did not chose to sound, m tliat might have increased the danger without any possibility of lessening it. Havuig cleared the rocks, they steered between Bonavista and the island of Mayo, intending to look into Port Prava for the Discovery, as Captain Cook had told Captain Clerke that he should touch there. At one o'clock they saw the rocks south- west of Bonavista, bearing south-east, distant three or four le^ues. On Monday the 13th, at six o'clock in the morning, the island of Mayo bore south south-east, distant four or Ave leagues. They sounded, and found ground at sixty fathoms. At the dis- tance of diree or four miles froni this island, they saw not the least appearance of vegetation on it ; nothing presented itself to their view, but that lifeless brown, so common in unwooded countries under the torrid zone. During their continuance among these islands, they had gentle breezes of wind, varying from the south-east to east, and sk>ne of which was a black petrel, about the riize of a crow. In the evening of the 8th, a bird, which the sailors called a noddy, settled on the rigging, and was taken. It was larger than a common English black-bird, and nearly of the same colour, except the upper part of the head, which was white. It was web-footed, had black legs, and a long black bill. A fresh gale from the north-west succeeded this calm weather, which continued two days. Afterwards they had variable light airs for about four hours, when the north-west wind returned, and blew fresh. On the 17th, they saw the Cape of Good HopL', aj»d, on the 18th, anchored in Table Bay, in four fathoms' water. After receiving the usual visit from the master-tittendant and the surgeon. Captain Cook sent an officer to Baron Plettenberg, the governor, and saluted the garrison with thirteen guns, and >vas complimented in return with the same number. Two French E^t-India ships were in the bay, the one out ard, and the other homeward bound. cook's third voyage, 1776—1780, 85 were enabled )f their empty d from these them. Com- etween decks change their r precautions id Discovery, s^er sick than hip, however, r weather had ed through as in from their and hardly a employed to ttled weather; e sides while (uator, in the afternoon in who had not ;re a little to eded on their 1 the 6th of 5 min. south, with light airs days before lev then saw ;d, but found loms. They il, about the lors called a |t was larger »f the same white. It |ill. A fresh ither, which le light airs ^turned, and bod HopL, loms' water, tendant and 'lettenberg, guns, and iber. Two it ard, and After having saluted. Captain Cook went on-shore, accom- panied by some of his officers, and waited on the governor, the lieutenant-governor, the fiscal, and the commander of the troops. These gentlemen received Captain Cook with the greatest civility ; and the governor, in particular, voluntarily promised him every assistance that the place aiSbrded. Before Captain Cook returned on-board, he ordered fresh meat, greens, &c., to be provided everv day for the ship's company. On the 22nd, they fixed their tents and observatory, and the next day they began to observe equal altitudes of the 8un> in order to discover whether the watch had altered its rate. The caulkers were set to work to caulk the ship ; and Captmn Cook liad concerted measures for supplying both ships with such provisions as were wanted ; and, as the several articles for the Resolution were got ready, they were immediately conveyed on-board. i . -i -n. The homeward-bound French ship sailed for Europe on the 29th, and by her they sent letters to England. The next day the Hampshire, East-India ship, from Bencoolen, anchored in the bay. On the 31st of October it blew excessively hard at south>east, and continued for three days. The Resolution was the only ship in tlie bay that rode out the gale without dragging her anchors. The storm ceased on the 3rd of November, and on the 6tli, tlie Hampshire sailed for England, in which Captain Cook sent home an invalid. On the 10th, in the morning, the Discovery arrived in the bay. She sailed from Plymouth on tlie 1st of August, and would have been with them a week sooner, had not the late gale of wind blown her off the coast. Captain Clerke, on his passage from England, lost one of his marines, by falling over-board. No other accident happened among his people, and they arrived in perfect health, fhe next day, the Discovery wanted caulking ; Captain Cook sent all his workmen on-board her, and lent eveiy other assistance to the captain to expedite his supply of provisions and water. Having, by the governor's permission, taken their cattle on- shore, on the night preceding the 14th, some dogs got in amo/igst the sheep, forced them out of the pen, killed four, and dispersed the rest. They recovered six of them the next day : but, among those which were missing were two rams, and two of the finest ewes in the whole flock. Though the Dutch firequently boast of tlie police at the Cape, yet tlie captain's sheep evaded all the vigilance of the fiscal's ofiicers and people. At length, after much trouble and expense, by employing some of the lowest fellows of the place, they recovered all but the two ewes. One of the rams, however, was so miserably torn by the dogs, that it was thought he would never recover. Mr. Hemmy, the lieutenant-governor, very obligingly offered 86 cook's third voyage, 1776—1780. tl^'''f to make up this loss, by giving Captain Cook a Spanish ram, out of some he had sent for from Lisbon ; but the captain declined the offer, thinking it would equally answer his purpose to take with him some of the Cape rams : in tliis, however, the captain was mistaken. Mr. Hemmy had endeavoured to intro- duce European sheep at the Cape ; but all his attempts were frustrated by the obstinacy of the countrjr people, who highly esteem their own breed, on account of their large tails ; the fat ofwhich sometimes produces more money than the whole carcase besides. Indeed, the most remarkable thing in the Cape sheep is the length and thickness of their tails, which weigh from ten to fifteen pounds. While the ships were repairing for the prosecution of the voyage, Mr. Anderson, and some of the officers, made an excursion, to take a survey of the neighbouring country. In the forenoon of Saturday, the 1 6th of November, he, and five others set out in a waggon, to take a view of the country, They crossed the large plain to the eastward of the town, which is entirely a white sand, resembling that which is commonly found on beaches. At five in the afternoon they passed a large farm-house, some corn-fields and vineyards, situated beyond the plain, where the soil appeared worth cultivating. At seven they arrived at Stellenbosh, a colony, in point of importance, next to that of Cape Town. The village stands at the foot of the range of lofty mountains, about twenty miles to the eastward of Cape Town, and consists of about thirty houses, which are neat and clean ; a rivulet, and the shelter of some large oaks, planted at its first settling, form a rural prospect in this desert country. There are some thriving vineyards and orchards about the place, which seem to indicate an excellent soil, though perhaps much may be owing to the uncommon serenity of tfie air. At this season of the^ year, Mr. Anderson could find but few plants in flower, and insects were very scarce. He and his ccmipanions left Stellenbosh the next morning, and soon arrived at the house they had passed on Saturday; Mr. Cloeder, the owner of which, having sent them an invitation to visit him, they were entertained by this gentleman with great politeness and hospitality. They wert> received by a l^and of music, which, continued playing while at dinner; which, in that situation, might be reckoned elegant. In the afternoon they crossed the country^ and passed some large plantations. In the evening thej^ arrived at a farm-house, which is said to be the first in the cultivated tract called the Pearl. Here they had a view of Drakenstein, the third colony of this country, which contains several little farms or plantations. Plants and insects were as scarce here as at Stellenbosh, but there was a greater plenty of shrubs, or small trees, naturally produced, than they had before seen in the country. Spanish ram, t the captain ir his purpose however, the ured to intro- ittempts were !, who highly tails ; the fat whole carcase 3 Cape sheep ;igh from ten cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. 87 iition of the rs, made an antry. iber, he, and the country, town, which is commonly assed a large i beyond the Lt seven they Drtance, next y mountains, land consists . rivulet, and gttling, form )me thriving 1 to indicate wing to the nd but few [e and his loon arrived lloeder, the visit him, politeness isic, which, situation, crossed the lie evening first in the la view of |h contains ibosh. but naturally On Tuesday, the 19th, in the afternoon, they went to see a remarkably large stone, called bv the inhabitants the Tower of Babylon, or the Pearl Diamond. It stands upon the top of some low hills, and is of an oblong shape, rounded at the top, and lying nearly south and north. The east and west sides are nearly perpendicular. The south end is not equally steep, but its greatest height is there ; whence it declines gently to the north part, which they ascended, and had a very extensive prospect of the whole country. > The circumference of this stone is about half a mile, as they were half an hour walking round it, including allowances for stopping, and a bad road. Its height seems to ec|ual the dome of St. Paul's Church. Except some few fissures, it is one uninterrupted mass of stone. The stone is of that sort which mineralogists call Saxum conghitinatum. On the 20th, in the morning, they set out from the Pearl, and going a different road, passed through an uncultivated country to liie Tyger Hills, where they beheld some tolerable corn- fields. About noon they stopped in a valley for refreshments, where they were plagued with a vast number of musquitoes ; and, in the evening anived at the Cape Town. On Saturday, the 23rd, they got the observatory, clo.'k, &c. on-board. From the result of several calculations and observa< tions, they had reason to conclude, that the watch, or time-piece^ had performed well all the way from England. Captain Cook fearing a second disaster, got his sheep and other cattle on-board as soon as possible. ^ He also increased his stock by purchasing two bulls, two heifers, two stallions, two mares, two rams, some ewes and goats, some poultry, and some rabbits. Both ships being supplied with provisions and water sufficient for two years and upwards, and every other necessary article, and Captain Cook having given Captain Clerke a copy of his instructions, they repaired on-board on the morning of the 30th. A breeze sprung up at south-east, at five in the afternoon, with' which they weighed and stood out of the bay ; at nine it fell calm, and they anchored. At three o'clock next morning they weighed and put to sea, with a light breeze at south, but did not get clear of the land till the 3rd of December in the morning. They continued to the south-east, followed by a mountainous sea, which occasioned the ship to roll exceedingly, and rendered the cattle troublesome. Several goats, especially the males, died, and some sheep. They now began to feel the cold in a very sensible degree. On Thursday, the 5th, a squall of wind carried away the mizen top-mast of the Resolution, but they had another to replace it. On the evening of the 6th, being then in the lati- tude of 39 deg. 14 min. south, and in the 23 deg. 56 min. east, they observed se vreral spots of water of a reddish hue. Upon 88 cook's third voyage, 1/76 — 1780* examining sonie of this water, that was taken up, they perceived a number of small animals, whiqh tlie microscope discovered to resemble cray-'fish. On Thursday, the i2th, at noon, they discovered land extend- ing from south-e-aBt by south, to south-east by cust, which, on a nearer approach, they found to be two islands. That which lies most to the south, appeared to be about fifteen leagues in circuit ; and the most northerly about nine leagues in circuit. They paissed at an equal distance from both islands, and coiUd not discover eitlier tree or shnib on either of them. They seemed to have a rocky shore, and excepting the south-east parts, a ridge of barren mountains, whose sides and summiUs were covered with snow. These two islands, and four others more to the east, were discovered by Captains Marion du Fresne and Crozet, Frencli navigators, in January, 1772, on their passage from the Cape of Good Hope to the Philippine Islands. As they have no names in tlie French chart of the Southern Hemisphere, Captain Cook named the two they now saw. Prince Edward's Islands, and the others by the name of Marion's and Crozet's Islands. Tliey liad now, in general, strong gales, and very indifferent wea'her. After leaving Prince Edward's Islands, they shaped their course to pass to the southward of the four others, to get into the lati- tude of the land discovered bjr Monsieur de Kerguelen. Captain Cook had received instructions to examine this island, and wideavoured to discover a good harbour. On the 16th, they^ saw numbers of penguins and divers, and rock-weed floating in tlie sea; and on the 21st, tliey saw a very large seal. The weather was now very foggy, and as they hourly expected to fall in with the land, their navigation was both dangerous and ^ tedious. On the 34th, at six in the morning, the fog clearing awaj a little, they saw land, bearing south south-east, which mey after- wards found to be an island of considerable height, and about tliree leagues in circuit. They soon after discovered another of equal magnitude, about one league to the eastward; and, l^etween tiiese two, some smaller ones. In the direction of south by east, another high island was seen. They did but jiist weather the island last mentioned : it was a high, round rock, named Bligh's Cap ; Captain Cook supposed this to be the same fihat Monsieur de Kerguelen called the Isle of Rendezvous ; but he knew nothing that could rendezvous at it but the fowls of the air, for it was certainly inaccessible to every animal. The weather beginning to clear up about eleven, thjey tacked, and steered in for the land. At noon they were enabled to determine the latitude of Blights Cap to be 48 deg. 29 min. south, aiid its longitude 6b deg. 40 min. east They passed it at tliree o'clock. PreeenUy after they clearly saw the land, and at four o'clock liey perceived discovered to I land extend- :, which, on a bat which lies n leagues in in circuit, ids, and could them. They he south-eait and summitjj lie east, were rozet, French a the Cape of ave no names Captain Cook sinds, and the lands. Tliey rent wea'her. 1 their course hito the lati- elen. le this island, (On the 16th, rock-weed ry large seal, rly expected ngerous and cook's third voYAca:, 1776 — 1780. 80 It extended from south-^ast to south-west by south, distant about four miles. The left extreme, which Captam Cook judged to be the northern point of this land, caUed in the French chart oi thj Southern Hemisphere Cape Francois, terminated m a high perpendicular rock; and the right one in a high indented point. Towards the middle of the land there appeared to be anmlet; but, on their approaching it, they saw it was onlv a bending m the ooast : they therefore bore up to go round Cape Franvois. Havma got off the Cape, they observed the coast to tlie southward much indented by points and bays, and therefore, fully expected to find a good harbour. They soon discovered one, into which they began to ply ; but it presently fell calm, and they anchored in forty-five fathoms' water ; the Discovery also anchored there soon after. Mr. Bligh, the master, was ordered to sound the harbour; who reported it to be safe and commodious. . Early in the morning of the 25th, they weighed, and having worked into the harbour, they anchored in eight fathoms' water. The Discovery got in at two o'clock in the afternoon ; when Captain Clerke stated then that he had with difficulty escaped bemg driven on the south point of the harbour, his anchor hav- ing started before he could shorten in the cable. They were, therefore, obliged to set sail, and drag the anchor after them, till they had room to heave it up, when they perceived that one of its palms was broken off. Immediately after they had anchored. Captain Cook ordered sdl tjie boats to be hoisted out, and the empty water casks to be got ready. In the mean time he landed, to search for a con- venient spot where they might be filled, and to observe what the place afforded. He found vast quantities of penguins, and other birds, and seals on ^e shore. The latter were not numerous, but so insensible of fear, that they killed as many as they chose, and Aiade use of their fat and blubber as oil for their lamps, and other purposes. Fresh water was exceedingly plentiful^ but not a single tree or shrub were to be discovered, and but httle herbage of any kind ; though they had flattered themselves with the hope of meeting with something considerable growing here^ having observed the sides of some of the hills to be of a Uvely green. Before Captain Cook returned to his ship, he ascended a ridge of rocks, rising one above another, expecting, by that means to obtain a view of the country : but, before he had reached the top, so thick a fog caira on that it was with difficulty he could find his way down a^ain. Towards the evening they hauled the seine at the head of the harbour, but caught no more than half a dozen small fish ; nor had they any better success the next day, when tJiey tried with hook and line. Their only resource, therefore, for fresh provisions, was birds, which were innumerable. Though it was both foggy and rainy, on Thursdav, the 26th, they began to fill water, and to cut grass for the cattle, near the 90 cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. ill 3^i t: head of the harbour. The rivulets were swelled to such a degree^ by the rain that fell, that the sides of the hills bounding the harbour appeared to be covered with a sheet of water. The people having laboured hard for two successive dayo, and nearly completed their water. Captain Cook allowed them the 27th of December as a day of rest, to celebrate Christmas. In consequence of which, many of them went on-shore, and made excursions into the country, which they found desolate and barren in the extreme. In the evening one of them presented a quart bottle to Captain Cook, which he found on the north-side of the harbour, fastened with some wire to a projecting rock. This bottle contained a piece of parchment, with the following inscription : — Ludovico XV. Oalliaratn rege, et d.* Boynes ^ ^ ' regi a Secretis ad res " maritiinas annis 1772 et 1773. It is evident from this inscription, that the voyagers were not the first Europeans who had visited this harbour, t, Captain Cook as a memorial of having been in this harbour, wrote on the other side of the parchment as follows ; Naves Resolution et Discovery de Rege Magnse Britannise, < Decembris 1776. He then put it again into the bottle, accompanied with a silver two-penny piece of 1772, covered the mouth of the bottle with a leaden cap, and placed it next morning in a pile of stones, erected for that purpose on an eminence, near the place where it was found. Here Captain Cook displayed the Lritish flag, and named the place Christmas Harbour, it being on that festival th^ arrived in it. It is the first inlet that they met with on the south-east side of Cape Franpois, which forms the north-side of the harbour, and is tne northern point of this land. The situation sufficiently dis- tinguishes it from any of the other inlets ; and to make it still more remarkable, its south point terminates in a high rock, per- forated quite through, formmg an appearance like the arch of a bridge. The head of the harbour lies open to only two points of the compass, and these are covered by islands^ in the offing, so that a sea cannot fall in to hurt a ship. It is high water here about ten o'clock at the full and change days, and the tide rises about four feet. In the afternoon. Captain Cook, accompanied by Mr. King, • The d is probably a contraction of the word domino. t Captain Cook supposes it to have been left by Monsieur de Boisgvas waiting for them, (which Captain Cook called ^Penguin Cove, from the immense number of those birds ap- |pearing there) is a fine river of fresh water, which we could 'approach without difficulty. Some large seals, shags, and a •few ducks were seen here ; and Mr. Bayly had a glance of a Ivery small land-bird, but it flew away among the rocks and they Host it. ^ They got on-board at nine, and Mr. Bligh returned soon after : %e reported that he had been four miles up the harbour, probably ♦near the top of it ; he found its direction to the south-west ; its breadth near the ships about a mile, but narrower farther up. *He found the country very rocky, and very little verdure ^bf any kind. Penguins and other birds were seen in great numbers. ' Next morning they put to sea, Captain Cook having named Jthe harbour Port Palliser. It is situated 49 deg. 3 min. soutii platitude, and 69 deg. 37 min. east longitude, and hes about five •^ leagues south-east from Howe's Foreland. , At four leagues distance, tliey perceived a round hill like a 'sugar loaf, which was named Mount Campbell; a low point, I beyond which no land was to be seen, bore south-east at about J twenty miles distance; they were then two leagues from shoce. ' The land is low and level. The mountains end about five league» ' from the low point, leaving a great extent of low land, on which Mount Campbell is situated. These mountains seemed to be ' composed of naked rocks, whose summits were covered with ■snow; and nothing but sterility was to be seen in the vallies. J At noop they perceived low land, opening off the low point just mentioneci, ih the direction of south south-^ast. It proved 04 cook's third voyage^ 1776 — 1780. I:| to be the eastern extremity of this land, and was named Cape Digby. The sliore forms one great bay Irom Cape Digby to Howe's Foreland; which produces a vast quantity of sea-weed, of that sort which Mr. Banks distinguishes by the name oijucm gigantetta. Though the stem of this weed is not much thicker than a man's thumb, some of it grows to the amazing length of sixty fathoms. They observed a small bending in the coast, about one o'clock, on the north-side of Cape Digby, for which they steered, intending to anchor, which finding impossible, they stretched forward, to make what farther observations they could that night. The coast, from Cape Digby, trends nearly south-west by south to a low point, to which Oaptain Cook, in honour of her Majesty, gave the name of Point Charlotte. Six, leagues from Cape Digbj, in the direction of suuth-west half west, is a pretiy high projecting point, which was called Prince of Wales's Foreland; six leagues beyond that, in the same direction, and in the latitude of 49 deg. 54 min. south, and the longitude of 70 deg. 13 min. east, is the most southerly point of the whole coast, which he distinguished by the name of Cape George, in honour of his Majesty. Between Point Charlotte and the Prince of Wales's Foreland, they discovered a deep inlet, which was called Royal Sound ; and advancing to the south, they saw another inlet into the Royal Sound, on the south-west side of the Prince of Wales's Fore- 1 land. On the south-west side of the Royal Sound, all the land | to Cape George consists of elevated hills, gradually rising from the sea, to a considerable height ; they were naked and barren, ' and their summits capt with snow. Not a vestage of a tree or : shrub, was to be seen. Some of the low land about Cape Digby, seemed to be covered with a green turf, but a considerable ^rt of it appeared quite naked. Penguins and other oceanic birds were numerous on the beaches, and shags innumerable kept flying about their ships. Anxious to get the length of Cape George, in order to be certain whether it was the mosi, southerly point or not, they stretcheid to the south, with all the sail they could carry ; but the wind shifting, they found it impossible to proceed in that direc- tion, and stood away from the coast. At this time Cape George bore south 53 deg. west, distant about seven leagues : they observed no land to the south of it, except a small island that lies off the pitch of the Cape ; and a south-west swell which they met when they brought the Cape | to bear in this direction, almost convinced them that there was \ no more in that quarter. ; The French discoverers imagined Cape Fran9ois to be the projecting point of a southern continent. The English have discovered that no such continent exists, and that the land in question is. an island of small extent; which, from its sterility !%• i named Cape Jape Digby to y of sea-weed, name oifucm t much thicker Lzing length of it, about on€ h they steered, they stretched ey could that irly south-west , in honour of of 8(»uth-west Ich was called id that, in the nin. south, and most southerly by the name of iles's Foreland, ral Sound ; and into the Royal 1 Wales's Fore- id, all the land y rising from d. and barren, te of a tree or Cape Digby, siderable part oceanic birds merable kept n order to be or not, they arry; buttlie in that direc- west, distant south of it, [Cape ; and a jht the Cape it there was lis to be the English have the land in its sterility cook's t'!ird voyage, 1776—1780. 9ft might properly be called the Island of Desolation. But Captain Cook was unwilling to rob Monsieur de Kerguelen of the honour of its bearing his name. Mr. Anderson, who, during the short time they lay in Christ- mas Harbour, lost no opportunity of searching the country in every direction, relates the follo>ving particulars : — " *No place (says he) hitherto discovered in either hemisphere, affords so scanty a field for the naturalist as this sterile spot. Some verdure, indeed, appeared, when at a small distance from tiie shore, which might raise the expectation of meeting with a little herbage ; but all this lively appearance was occasioned by- one small plant, resembling saxifrage, which grew up the hills in large sjireading tufts, on a kind of rotten turf, which, if dried, might serve for fuel, and the only thing seen here that could . possibly be applied to that purpose. " Another plant, which grew to near the height of two feet, was pretty plentifully scattered about the boggy declivities ; it had the appearance of a small cabbage when it has shot iiito seeds. It had the watery, acrid taste of the antiscorbutic plants, though it materially differed from the whole tribe. When eaten raw, it was not unlike the New Zealand scurvy grass ; but when boiled, it acquired a rank flavour. At this time, none of its seeds were ripe enough to be brought home, and introduced into our English kitchen-gardens. *' Near the brooks and boggy places were found two other small plants, which were eaten as salad ; the one like garden cresses, and very hot, and the other very mild ; the latter is a curiosity, having not only male and female, but also androgynous plants. Some coarse grass grew pretty plentifully in a few . small spots near the harbour, which was cut down for our cattle. In short, the whole catalogue of plants did not exceed eighteen, including a boi^utiful species of lichen, and several sorts of moss. Nor was theie the appearance of a tree or shrub in the whole country. " Among the animals, the most considerable were seals, which were distinguished by the name of sea bears, being the sort that are called the ursine seal. They come on-shore to repose and breed. At that time they were shedding their hair, and so remarkably tame, that there was no difficulty in killing • them. " No other quadruped was seen; but a great number of oceanic birds, as ducks, shags, petrels, &c. The ducks we» somewhat like a widgeon, both in size and figure ; a consider- able number of them were killed and eaten : they were excellent food, and had not the least fishy taste. *' The Cape petrel, the small blue one, and the small one, or Mother Carey's chicken, were not plentiful here; but another sort, which is the largest of the petrels, and called b^ the seamen Mother Carey's goose, is found in abundance. This petrel is as M cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. 'f i ■'^. i'^*^l large as an albatross, and is carnivorous, feeding on the dead carcasses of seals, birds, &c. *' The greatest number of birds here were penguins, which consist of three sorts. The head of the largest is black, the upper part of the body of a leaden grey, the under part white, and the feet black r two broad stripes of fine yellow descend from the head to the breast ; the bill is of a reddish colour, and longer than in the other sorts. The second sort is about half the size of the former. It is of a blackish grey on the upper part of the body, and has a white spot on the upper part of the head. The bill and feet are yellowish. In the thi'-d sort, the upper part of the body and throat are black, the rest v.'hite, except the top of the head, which is ornamented with a fine, yellow arch, which it can erect as two crests. " The shags here were of two sorts, viz. the lesser cormorant, or water-crow, and another %vith a blackish back and white belly. The sea-swallow, the tern, the common sea-gull, and the Port Egmont hen, were also found here. " Large flocks of a singular kind of white bird flew about here, having the base of the bill covered with a homy crust. It had a blacK bill and white feet, was somewhat larger than a pigeon, and the flesh tasted like that of a duck. " The seine was once hauled, when we found a few fish about the size of a small haddock. Tlie only shell-fish we saw hese were a few limpets and muscles. " Many of the hills, notwithstanding they were of a moderate height, were at that time covered with snow, though answering to our June. It is reasonable to imagine that rain must be very fre- quent here, as well from the marks of large torrents having rushed down, as from the appearance of the country, which, even on the hills, was a continued bog or swamp. ** The rocks consist principally of a dark blue, and very hard stone, intermixed with particles of glimmer, or quartz. Some considerable rocks were also formed here from a brownish, brittle stone.** Having left Kerguelen*s land. Captain Cook steered east by north, in order to proceed to New Zealand, according to his in- structions, for the purpose of taking in wood and water, and hay for tine cattle ; of which last article their stock was now considera- bly reduced. The 31st of December, their longitude by observa- tion of the sun and moon, was 72 deg. 38 min. and 36 sec, east; p>ad on the first day of the year 1777, they were in the latitude of 48 deg. 41 min. south, longitude 76 deg. 50 min. east. Till the 3rd of January the weather was tolerably clear, with fresh gales from the west and south-west ; but now the wind veered to the north, and continued in that quarter eight days, during which, though there was at the same time a thick fog, they ran upwarda of three hundred leagues, chiefly in the dark ; the sun indeed sometimes made his appearance, but very rarely. On the 7tb, cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. 97 J on the dead nguins, which is black, the er part white^ ellow descend sh colour, and is about half the upper part rt of the head, the upper part !xcept the top iw arch, which ler cormorant, id white belly. , and the Port rd flew about )my crust. It larger than a few fish about 1 we saw heoe of a moderate answering to |st be very fre- rrents having which, even ind very hard luartz. Some Iwniah, brittle te' Captain Cook dispatched a boat, with orders to Captain Clerke, fixing their rendezvous at Adventure Bay, in Van Dieman's Land, if the ships should happen to separate before they arrived there ; however, they had the good fortune not to lose company with each other. On Sunday, the 12th, the northerly winds were succeeded by a calm, which was soon followed by a southerly wind. Their latitude was now 48 deg. 40 min. south, longitude 110 deg. 26 min. east. The wind blew from the south a whole day, and then, veering to the west and north-west, brought on some fair weather. They continued their course to the eastward without interrup- tion, till the 19th, when the fore-top-mast of the Resolution went by the board, and carried the main-top-gallant-mast with it ; this occasioned some delay in refitting. The wind continued westerly, and though it blew very fresh, the weather was notwithstanding clear. In the morning of the 24th, they discovered Van Dieman's Land, bearing towards the north-west : the latitude being at noon 43 deg. 47 min. south, longitude 137 deg. east. Captain Cook gave the name of the Eddystone to a rock that lies about a league to the eastv\ard of Swilly Isle, or Rock, on account of its striking resemblance to Eddystone light-house. These two rocks may, even in the night, be seen at a considerable distance, and are the summits of a ledge of rocks under water. On the north-east side of Storm Bay are Sv'^me creeks that seem tolerably sheltered; and if this coast were carefully examined, several good harbours would most probably be found. About noon, on the 26tb a breeze sprung up, which deter- mined them to anchor in Adventure Bay, for the purf)ose of V atering, &c. which was found could not be wanted till their arrival at New Zealand. The ships, therefore, stood in for the bay, and anchored in a sandy bottom, in twelve fathoms' water, at the distance from shore of about three quarters of a mile. After anchoring, Captains Cook and Gierke went a-shore in the boats to look out for the most commodious place for pro-' curing the necessary supplies. W^ood and water they found could be procured easily, but the grass, which was principally needed, was coarse and bad. The next morning Captain Cook detached two parties under the conduct of Lieutenant King to the east-side of the bay to cut wood and grass, some marines at- tending them as a guard, though none of the natives hadi yet ap- peared. He also sent the launch to provide water for the ships, and afterwards paid a visit to the parties thus employed. The seine was drawn in the evening, and at one haul a great quantity offish was taken: after which, all hands returned on- board, to be ready for sailing, when the wind should permit. As this, however, did not happen, the next day was employed for cutting down spars for the ships. They were surprised in the afternoon with a visit from same of the natives : eight men and a boy approached them from the woods, with the greatest confi- F 6 I.'l i^ ^*- fVl w 98 cook's third voyage, 1776—1780. cience, none of them having weapons, but one, who held in his hand a stick about two feet long, pointed at one end. They were quite naked, and wore no ornaments, unless we consider as such, some large punctures or ridges on diiferent parts of their bodies, some in straight, and others in curved lines. They were of the common stature, but slender. Their skin was black, and also their hair, which was as woolly as that of any native of Guinea ; but they had not remarkably thick lips, nor flat noses ; on the contrary, their features were far from being disagreeable, They had pretty good eyes, and their teeth were tolerably even, but very dirty. Most ot them had their hair and beards smeared with a red ointment ; with which some also had their tac^s painted. Every present made to them they received without any ap- pearance of satisfaction. When some bread was given, as soon as they understood it was to be eaten, they either returned it, or threw it away, without even tasting it. They also refused some fish, both raw and dressed ; but, on giving some birds to them, their behaviour indicated a fondness for such food. Captain Cook had brought two pigs a-shore, with a view to leave them in the woods ; but, the instant these came within reach of the savages, they seized them, as a dog would have done, by the ears, and were for carrying them oflF immediately, with no other intention, as could be perceived, but to kill them. Being de- : sirous of knovdng the use of the stick before mentioned. Captain Cook, by signs prevailed upon one of them to show him. This | savage set up a piece of wood as a mark, and threw at it, at a distance of about 20 yards. On repeated trials, however, he was s^lways wide from his object. Omai, to shew them the superiority of our weapons, then fired his musket at it, which alarmed them so much, that they fled into the woods with ^reat precipitation. Immediately alter they had retired. Captain Cook ordered the two pigs, one a male and the other a female, to be carried about a mile within the woods, and he himself saw them left there, taking care that r one pf the natives should observe what was passing. He also intended to have left a young bull and a cow, besides some goats and sheep ; but he s. n relinquished that design, being of opinion, that the natives would destroy them ; which he supposed would be the fate of the pigs, if they should diance to find them out. But, as swine soon become wild, and are fond of being in the woods, it is. probable that they were pre- served. The other cattle could not have remained long con- cealed from the savages, as they must have been put into an open place. They were prevented from sailing on ilae 29th by a dead ealra, which continued the whole day. Captuin Cook, therefore, sent patties on-shore to cut w jod and grass, as usual ; and he accom- panied the wooding party himself'. Soon after landing, about twenty of the natives joined them, one of whom was distinguished 780. e, who held in his t one end. They nless we consider rent parts of their ines. They w^re in was black, and ot any native of >s, nor flat noses ; mg disagreeable. •e tolerably even, 1 beards smeared had their faces without any ap- »s given, as soon 3r returned it, or Iso refused some e birds to them, food. Captain to leave them in n reach of the *^e done, by the • '> with no other em. Being de tioned, Captaiu t low him. Thisf threw at it, at a owever, he \m the superiorin » alarmed them precipitation, ok ordered the J carried about «em left there, 3rve what was iill and a cow, inquished that destroy them; if they should ome wild, and they were pre- led long con- 1 put into an a dead ealm, fierefore, sent nd he aooom- nding, about distinguished j i'-u. t> ilif cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. 99 not only by his deformity, but by the drollery of his gesticula- tions, and the seeming humour of his speeches, which, however, they could not understand. Those whom the;^ now saw differed in some respects, particularly in the texture of the hair, from the natives of the more northerly parts of this country, whom Captain Cook met with in his first voyage. Some of the present com- pany had a slip of the kangaroo skin round their ancles ; and others wore round their necks some small cord made of fur. They seemed not to value iron, but were apparently pleased with the medals and beads that were given them. They did not even appear to know the use of fish-hooks, though it is more than probable that they were acquainted with some method of catch- Higfish. Their habitations were little sheds or hovels built of sticks, and covered with bark. Evident signs appeared of their some- times taking up their abode in the trunks of large trees, which had been hollowed out by fire ; and the marks of fire near their habitations, and near every heap of shells, were indubitable proofs that they did not eat their food raw. Captain Cook on leaving the wooding party, went to the grass- cutters, and having seen the boats loaded with hay, returned on- board. He had just quitted the shore, when several w omen and children appeared, and were introduced to Lieutenant King, by the men who accompanied them. These females wore a kan- garoo skin (in the shape as it came from the animal) tied over the shoulders, and round the waist. Its onljr use seemed to be, to support their children when carried on their backs ; for it did not cover those parts which modestjr directs us to conceal; their bodies were black, and marked like those of the men Avith scars. Some of them had their head completely shaved; others . on the one side only ; while the rest of tnem had all the upper part of the head shorn close, having a circle of hair all round, something like the tonsure of the Romish ecclesiastics. Many of the children had fine features, and were thought pretty, but the women in general were far from being handsome. Some of the gentlemen paid their addresses to them, accompanied with large presents, which were rejected with great disdam ; whether from a sense of virtue, or fear of displeasing their men, is not certain. That the husbands did not relish this gallantry, was clear, from their behaviour on the occasion. Captain Cook's reflections on this circumstance we shall give in his own words : " This con- duct of Europeans amongst savages, to their women, is highly blameable, as it creates a jealousy in their men, that may be attended with consequences fatal to the success of the common J enterprize, and to the whole body of the adventurers, without I advancing the private purpose of the individual, or enabling him to gain the object of his wishes. I believe it has been generally found, among uncivilized people, that where the women are easy o'" access, the men are the first to offer them to strangers ; ai"^ F2 11 100 cook's third voyage, irrc — 1780. that, where this is not the case, neither the allurements of pre- sents, nor the opportunity of privacy, will be likely to have the desired effect. This observation, I am sure will hold good, throughout all the parts of the South Sea where I have been." During their continuance in Van Dieman's Land they had either light airs from the east, or calms : they therefore lost little or no time by touching on this coast. This land was discovered in November, 1642, by Tasman, who gave it the name of Van Dieman's Land. Captain Furneaux touched at it in March, 1773. It is the southern point of New Holland, which is by far the largest island in the known world, and almost deserves the name of a continent. The land is diversified with hills and vallies, and well wooded. The only wind to which Adventure Bay is exposed, is the north-east ; and, upon the whole, this may be considered as a very safe road. Its latitude is 43 deg. 21 min. 20 sec. south, and its longitude 147 deg. 29 min. east. Mr. Anderyon, surgeon of the Resolution, employed himself in examining the country during their continuance in Adventure Bay. His remarks on the inhabitants and their language^ and liis account of the country, are as follows : ** There is a beautiful, sandy beach, about two miles long, at the bottom of Adventure Bay, formed, to all appearance, by the particles which the sea washes from a fine, white sand-stone. This beach is very well adapted for hauling a seine. Behind it is a plain, with a brackish lake, out of which we caught by angling some bream and trout. ITie parts adjoining the bay are mostly hilly, and are an entire forest of tall trees, rendered almost impassable by brakes of fern, shrubs, &c. The soil on the flat land, and on the lower part of the hills, is sandy, or con- sists of a yellowish earth, and in some parts of a reddish clay ; but farther up the hills it is of a grey, tough cast. This comitry, upon the whole, bears many marks of being very dry, and the heat appears to be great. No mineral bodies, nor stones of any other kind than the white sand-stone, were observed by us , nor could we find any vegetables that afforded subsistence foi man. The forest trees are all of one kind, and generally quite straight ; they bear clusters of small, white flowers. The prin- cipal plants they observed were wood-sorrel, milk-wort, cud- weed, bell-flower, gladiolus, samphire, and several kinds of fern. The only quadruped we saw distinctly, was a species of opos sum, about twice the size of a large rat. The kangaroo, found farther northward in New Holland, may also be supposed to inhabit here, as some of the inhabitants had pieces of the skin of that animal. " The principal sorts of birds in the woods are brown hawks or eagles, crows, large pigeons, yellowish paroquets, and a species which we called motacilla cyanea, from the beautiful azure colour of its head and neck. On the shore were several lents of pre- y to have the hold good, I have cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. 101 lere ey had either it little or no iscovered in ame of Van Vlarch, 1773. s by far the ieserves the th hills and li Adventure whole, this e is 43 deg. min. east, lyed himself a Adventure nguage, and les long, at ance, by the sand-stone. Behind it caught by the bay are s, rendered iThe soil on idy, or con- jddish clay ; is country, •y, and the nes of any ed by us , fistence foi rally quite The prin- ort, cud- ids of fern. !S of opos 00, found jposed to i the skin hawks :>, and a beautiful Ire several gulls, black oyster-catchers, or sea-pies, and plovers of a stone colour. " We observed in the woods some blackish snakes that were pretty large,* and we killed a lizard which was about fifteen inches long and six round, very beautifully clouded with yellow and black. " Among a variety of fish we caught some large lavs, nurses, leather-jackets, bream, soles, flouriders, gurnards, an(f :lephant- fish; besides a sort which we did not recollect to have seen before, and which partakes of the nature both of a round and a flat fish. Upon the rocks are muscles and other shell fish ; and upon the beach we found some pretty Medusa's heads, Tlie most troublesome insects we met with, were the musquitoes, and a large black ant, whose bite inflicts extreme pain. " The inhabitants seemed mild and cheenul, with littte of that wild appearance that savages in general have. They are almost devoid of personal activity or genius, and are nearly upon a par with the wretched natives of Terra del Fuego. They display, however, some contrivance in their method of cutting their arms and bodies in lines of different directions, raised above the surface of the skin. Their indiflerence for our pre- sents, their general inattention, and want of curiosity, were very remarkable, and testified no acuteness of understanding. Tlieir complexion is a dull black, which they sometimes heighten by smutting their bodies, as we supposed, from their leaving a mark behind on any clean substance. Their hair is perfectly woollv, and is clotted with grease and red ochre, like that of the Hottentots. Their noses are broad and full, and the lower part of the face projects considerably. Their eyes are of a moderate size, and though they are not very quick or piercing, they give the countenance a frank, cheerfiu, and pleasing cast. Their teeth are not very white, nor well set, and their mouths are too wide ; they wear' their beards long, and clotted with paint. They are upon the whole well proportioned, though their belly is rather protuberant. Their favourite attitude is to stand with one side forward, and one hand grasping, across the back, the opposite arm, which, on this occasion, hangs down by the side that projects. '^ Near the shore in the bay, we observed some wretched con- stnictions of sticks covered with bark; but these seemed to have been only temporary j and they had converted many of their largf^t trees into more comfortable and commodious habi- tations. The trunks of these were hollowed out, to the height of six or seven feet, by means of fire. That they sometimes dwell in them, was manifest from their hearths in the middle made of clay, round which four or five persons might sit. These places of shelter are rendered durable, by their leaving one side of the tree sound, so that it continues growing with great luxuriance. " That the natives of Van Dieman's Land originate from the 103 cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. Il ' same stock with those who inhabit the northern parts of New Holland, seems evident. Though they differ in many respects, their dissimilarity may be reasonably accounted for, from the united considerations of distance of place, length of time* total 8e))aration, and diversity of climate. " As the inhabitants of New Holland seem all to have sprung from one common source, there is nothing very peculiar in them ; for they greatly resemble the savages of the island of Tanna and Mallicolla. There is even some reason for supposing that they may originally have come from the same place with all the natives of the Pacinc Ocean ; for, of about ten words which we found means to get from them, that which is used to express coldy is very similar to that of New Zealand and Otaheite ; the first being mallareede, the second makkareede, and the third mareede. The remainder of our scanty vocabulary of Van Die- ' man's Land is as follows, viz. — ■>i"' '- gua«Ine, a woman. verai, the eye. Muidje, the nose. Kainy, the teeth, mottth, or tongue. Laereune, a small bird, a native of the woods here. Koygee, the ear. Teegera, to eat. Noonga, elevated scars on the body. Togarago, / will go, or I must be gone. {£ V M \ym It will probably be found upon a diligent inquiry, and an accurate comparison, drawn from the affinity of languages, that all the people from New Holland, eastward to Easter Island, are of the same extraction." On the 30th of January, in the morning, the voyagers weighed anchor with a light westerly breeze, from Adventure Bay. Soon ai'ter they had put to sea, the wind became southerly, and pro- duced a perfect storm ; but, veering in the evening to the eajst and north-east, its fury began to abate. This wind was attended Avith an almost intolerable heat, which, however, was of so short a continuance that some of the company did not perceive it. In the night, between the 6th and 7th of February, one of the Discovery's marines fell overboard and was drowned. On the 10th, in the afternoon, they descried the coast of New Zealand, at the distance of about eight or nine leagues. They then steered for Cape Farewell, and afterwards for Stephen's Island ; and in the morning of the 12th, anchored in Ship Cove, Queen Char- lotte's Sound. They soon after landed many empty water casks, and cleared a place for two observatories. In the mean time several canoes came alongside the ships ; but very lew of those who were in tliem would venture on-board. Their shyness appeared the more extraordinary, as Captain Cook was well known to all of them ; and as one man in particular, among tlie present group, had been treated by him with distinguished kind- ness during a former voyage. This man, however, could not 0. parts of New nany respects, I for, from the 1 of time, total to have sprung y peculiar in the island of for supposing '■ place with all 1 words which sed to express Otaheite; the and the third •y of Van Die- cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. 103 uiry, and an nguages, that laster Island^ gers weighed ; Bay. Soon riy, and pro- g to the east was attended is of so short rceive it. y, one of the ed. On tlie ew Zealand, then steered md ; and in Jueen Char- ivater casks, I meantime ew of those eir shyness was well among tiie ished kind- le could not by any means be prevailed on to come on-board. They could only account for this reserve by supposing, that they were appre- hensive of our men re\ enging the death of Captain Furneaux's people who had been killed here. But upon Captain Cook's assuring them of the continuance of his friendship, and that he should not molest them on that account, they soon laid aside all api)earance of suspicion or distrust. The next day they pitched two tents, and erected the observatories, in which Messrs. King and Bayly immediately commenced their astronomical operatioiis. Two of the men were employed in brevdng spruce beer ; while others filled the water casks, collected grass for the cattle, and cut wood. Those who remained on-board were occupied in repair- ing the rigging, and performing the necessary duties of the ships. A guard of marines was appointed for the protection of the different parties on-shore, and arms were given to all the work- men, to repel all attacks from the natives if they had been inclined to molest them ; but this did not appear to be the case. During the course of this day, many families came from various parts of the coast, and erected their huts close to the encampment. The faciUty with which they build these tempo- rary habitations is remarkable. They have been seen to erect above twenty of them on a spot of ground, which was covered with plants and shrubs not an hour before. Captain Cook was present when a number of savages landed, and built a village of this kind. They had no sooner leaped from the canoes, than they tore up the shrubs and plants from the ground they had fixed upon, or put up some part of the framing of the hut. While the men were thus employed, the women took care of the canoes, secured the provisions and utensils, and gathered dry sticks, to serve as materials for fire. These huts are sufficiently calculated for affording shelter from the rain and wind. The same tribe or family however large, generally associate and live together ; so that their towns and villages are usually divided by paJi^ades into separate districts. Considerable advantage was derived from the natives coming to live with the crew ; for, every day, some of them were occu- IMed in catching fish, a good share of which was generally procured by exchanges. Besides fish, they gave other refresli- ments in abundance. Scurvy-grass, celery, and portable soup were boiled everv day with wheat and pease ; and they had spruce beer for their drink. Such a regimen soon removed all seeds of the scurvy from the people, if any of them had con- tracted it; but, indeed, on their arrival they had only two mvalids in both ships. They were occasionally visited by other natives, besides those who lived close to them. Their articles of traffic were fish, curiosities, and women ; the two first of which were speedily disposed of, but the latter did not come to a good market, as the crew had conceived ?i dislike to them. Captain Cook observes 104 cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. . * upon this occasion^ that he connived at a connexion with women, because he could not prevent it ; but that he never encouraged it^ because he dreaded the consequences. Among the occasional visitors was a chief called Kahoora, who headed the party that cut off Captain Furneaux's people. He was far from being be- loved by his countrymen, some of whom even importuned Captain Cook to kill him, at the same time expressmg their disapprobation of hm in the severest terms. A striking proof of the divisions that prevail among these people occurred ; for the inhabitants of each village, by turns, solicited the commodore to destroy the other. Captain Cook, on the 15th, went in a boat to search for grass, and visited the hippah, or fortified village, at the south-west point of the island of Moutuara. He observed no inhabitants at this village, though there were evident marks of its having been lately occupied, the houses and palisades being in a state of good repair. — ^Not the smallest vestige remained of the English garden-seeds which had been planted at this hippah in 1773, during Captain Cook's second voyage. They had probably been all rooted out to make room for buildings; for, at the other gardens then planted, were found radishes, onions, leeks, cabbages, purslain, potatoes, &c. Though the natives of New Zealand are fond of the last mentioned root, they had not planted a single one, much less any of the other articles they had intro- duced among them. Early in the morning of the 16th, the Captains Cook and Clerke, and several of the officers and sailors, accompanied by Omai and two New Zealanders, set out, in five boats, to collect fodder for the cattle. Having proceeded about three leagues up the Sound, they landed on the east-side, where they cut a sufficient quantity of grass to load the two launches. On their return down the Sound, they paid a visit to GJrass Cove, the place where Captain Furneaux's people had been massacred. They here met with Captain Cook's old friend Pedro, who is mentioned by him in the history of his second voyage. He, and another New Zealander, received them on the beach, armed with the spear and patoo, though not without manifest signs of fear. Their apprehensions, however, were quickly dissipated by a few presents, which brought down to the shore two or three others of the family. During the continuance of the party at this place, the commodore being desirous of inquiring into the particular circumstances relative to the massacre of our countrymen, fixed upon Omai as an interpreter for that purpose, as his language was a dialect of that of New Zealand. Fedro, and the other natives who were present, none of whom had been concerned in that unfortuaate transaction, answered every question without reserve. Their information imported, that while our people were at dinner, some of the natives stole, or snatched from them, 'M' cook's THIttD VOYAGE, 1770—1780. 105 with women, r encouraged iie occasional e party thai )m being be. importuned ressmg their triking proof ccurred; for commodore ch for grass, B south-west Inhabitants at having been in a state of the English [)ah in 1773, ad probably for, at the lions, leeks, :ives of New [ not planted !y had intro- Cook and ipanied by ., to collect ree leagues they cut a On their Cove, the [massacred. Iro, who is age. He, [he beach, it manifest 5 quickly the shore jiace, the I particular nen, fixed language J the other Icemed in without people )m them, some fish and bread, for which offence they received some blows; A quarrel immediately ensued, and two of the savages were shot dead, by the only two muskets that were fired ; for, before a third was discharged, the natives rushed furiously upon our people, and being su{)erior in number, destroyed them all.-*- redro and his companions also pointed out the very spot where tlie fracas happened, and the place where the boat lay, m which a black servant of Captain Fumeaux had been left to take care of it. According to another account, this negro was the occasion of the quarrel ; for one of the natives stealing something out of the boat, the black gave him a violent blow witli a stick. His countrymen hearing his cries, at some distance, imagined he was being killed, and immediately attacked our people, who, before tliey could reach the boat, or prepare themselves against the unexpected assault, fell a sacrifice to the fury of the exasperated savages. It is probable, both these accounts were true ; as it is natural to suppose, that while some of the natives were stealing from the man who had been left in the boat, others of them might be taking the same liberty with the property of the people who were on-shore. — But all agree that there was no premeditated plan of blood-shed ; and that if the thefts had not been too hastily resented, no mischief would have happened. With regard to the boat, some said, that it had been pulled to pieces and burnt; while others asserted, tliat it had been carried off by a party of strangers. The party continued at Grass Cove till the evening, and then embarked to return to the ships. They had scarcelv left the shore, when the wind began to blow violently at north-west, so that it was not without great difficulty that they could reach the ships, where some of the boats did not arrive till the next morning ; and it was very fortunate that they got on-board then, for soon afterwards a perfect storm arose. Towards the evening, how- ever, the wind veering to the east, brought on fair weather. On Tuesday, the 18th, Fedro and his whole family came to reside • near them. The proper name of this chief was Matahouah ; but some of Captain Cook's people had given him the appellation of Pedro in a former voyage. On the 20th, they had another storm, of less duration tnan the former, but more^ violent ; in consequence of which, both their ships struck their yards and top-masts. These tempests are fre^iuent here ; and the nearer the shore, the more sensible are their effects. On Friday, the Slst, a tribe, or family of about thirty persons came from the upper part of the Sound to visit the ships. Their chief was named Tomatongeauooranuc : he was about the age of forty-five, and had a frank, cheerful countenance ; and, indeed, the rest of his tribe were, upon the whole, the handsomest of all the New Zealanders that Captain Cook had ever seen. By this time upwards of tAvo-thirds of the natives of Queen Charlotte's F 3 106 cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. A ri Sound had settled near the ships, numbers of whom daily re- sorted to the ships, and the encampment on shore ; but the latter was most frequented, during the time when our people were melting seal-blubber there ; for the savages were so fond of train-oil, tliat they relished the very dregs of the casks, aiid skimmings of the kettle ; and considered the stinking oil ati a most delicious feast. Whenthc crews had procured a competent supply of hay, wood, and water, they struck their tents, and the next morning, whici) was the 24th, weighed out of the cove. But the wind not bein^ so fair as could have been wished, they were obliged to cast anchor again near the Isle of Motuara. While getting under sail, Tomatongeauooranuc, Matahouah, and many of the natives came to take leave of them. These two chiefs having requested Captain Cook to present them with some hogs and goats, he gave to Tomatongeauooranuc two pigs, a boar, and a sow ; and to Matahouah two goats, a male and female, after they had pro- mised not to destroy them. As for the animals, which Captain Fumeaux had left here. Captain Cook was now told that they were all dead; but he was allerwards informed by the two New Zea- land youths who went away with them, that Tiratou, a popular chief, had in his possession many cocks and hens, besides a so\^. Before they had been long at anchor near Motuara, several cenoes, filled with natives, came towards them, and they carried on a brisk trade with them lor the curiosities of this place. In one of these canoes was Kahoora, whom Omai immediately pointed out to Captain Cook, and solicited him to shoot that chief; he also threatened to be himself his executioner, if he should ever presume to pay them another visit. These menaces of Omai had so little influence upon Kahoora, that he returned to the ship the next morning, accompanied with his whole family. Omai, having obtained Captai. Cook's permission to ask him to come on-board, introduced liim into the cabin, saying, **. There is Kahoora, dispatch him." But, fearing per- haps that he should be called upon to put his former threats in execution, he inslantiy retired. He soon, however, returned; and perceiving that the chief was unhurt, he earnestly remon. strated with Captain Cook on the subject, saying, that if a man killed another in England, he was hanged for it ; but that Kahoora had killed ten, and therefore justly deserved death. These arguments, however plausible, had no wei^lit with the commo- dore, who desired Omai to ask the New Zealand chief, why he had destroyed Captain Furneaux's people? Kahoora, confounded at this question, hung down his head, and folded his arms, and seemed in expectation of immediate death ; but as soon as he was assured of safety he became cheerful. He appeared, how- ever, unwilling to answer the question that had been put to him, till after repeated promises that no violence should be offered him. He tnen ventured to inform them, that one of the natives 0. whom daily re shore ; but the hen our people ;es were so Ibnd the casks, ajid linking oil a^ g »lyot'hay,woo(l, morning, which wind not being obliged to cast e getting under ly of the natives iving requested and goats, he ind a sow ; and r they had pro. which Captain d that they were I two New Zea- itou, a popular , besides a sow, totuara, several nd they carried • this place. In ' li irnmediatelv I to shoot that cutioner, if he hese menaceti .t he returned ith his whole 's permission to the cabin, t, fearing per- ner threats in er, returned; lestljr remon. that if a man that Kahooro tath. These the commo- f, why he had •nfounded at IS arms, and soon as he eared, how- put to him, be offered the natives cook's thihd voyage, 1776—1780 107 having brought a stone liatchet for the purpose ot traffic, the person to whom it was offered took it, and refused either to return it, or give any thing in exchange ; upon wluch the owner ol" it seized some bread by way of an equivalent ; and this gave rise to the quarrel that ensued. He also mentioned, that he himself, during the disturbance, had a narrow escape; lor a musket was levelled at him, which he found means to avoid by skulking behind the boat ; and another man who happened to stand close to him, was shot dead : upon which Kahoora attacked Mr. Rowe, the officer who commanded the party, who defended iiiniself with his hanger, with which he gave the chief a wound in the arm, till he was overpowered by superiority of number^. Mr. Burney, whom Captain Furneaux dispatched next day with ail armed party in search of his people who were missing, had, upon discovering the melancholy proofs of this catastrophe, fired several vollies among the natives who were still on th« spot, and were probably partaking of the horrid banquet of human flesh.— It was reasonable to suppose that this firing was not ineffectual ; but upon inquiry it appeared that not a single gjrson had been killed, or even hurt by the shot which Mr. urney's people had discharged. i , n Most of the natives they met with, expected that Captain Cook would take vengeance on Kahoora for liis concern in the massacre; and many of them not only wished it, but testified their surprise at the captain's forbearance and moderation. As the chief must have knovm this, it was a matter of astonishment that he so often put himself in the power of the commodore.^— His two last visits in particular, were under such circumstances, that he could not have flattered himself with a prospect of escaping, had the captain been inclined to detain him : and yet, when his first fears, on being questioned, had subsided, so far was he from entertaining uneasy sensations, that, on seeing in the cabin a portrait of a New Zealander, he desired that his own likeness might be taken, and sat till Mr. Webber had finished his portrait, without the smallest token of impatience. Captain Cook admired his courage, and was pleased with the confidence which he reposed in him ; for he placed his whole safety in the uniform declarations of the captain, that he had always been a friend to the natives, and would continue in the same sentiments till they gave him reason to behave otherwise : that he should think no more of their barbarous treatment of his countrymen, as that transaction had happened long ago ; but that if they should ever venture to make a second attempt of that kind, they might rest assured of meeting with an adequate punishment. Before their arrival in New Zealand, Omai had expressed a desire of taking one of the natives ^vith him to his own country He soon had an opportunity of gratifying his inclination, for a youth named Taweiharooa, the only ,8on of a deceased chief. 108 cook's third voyage^ 1776 — 1780. f'W I'l' .'1;^ ^ offered to accompany him, and tool^ up his residence on-board. Captain Cook caused it to be made kno\Yn to him and all his friends, that if the youth departed with them he would never re- turn. This declaration, however, had no effect. The day before quitting the Cove, Tiratoutou, his mother, came to receive her last present from Omai ; and the same evening she and her son parted, with all the marks of the tenderest affection. But she said she would weep no more, and faithfully kept her word ; for the next morning, when she returned to take her last farewell of Taweiharooa, she was quite cheerful all the time she remained on-board, and departed with great unconcern. A boy of about ten years of age accompanied Taweiharooa as a servant ; his name was Kokoa. He was presented to Cai)tain Cook by liis own father, who parted with hin. with such indifference, as to strip him, and leave him entirely naked. The captain having in vain endeavoured to convince these people of the great impro- bability of these youths ever returning home, at length consented to their going. The inhabitants of New Zealand seem to live under continual amirehensions of being destroyed by each other ; most of their tnbes having, as they think, sustained injuries from some other tribe, which they are ever eager to revenge ; and it is not im- probable, that the desire of a good meal is frequently a great incitement. They generally steal upon the adverse party in the night, and if the^ chance to nnd them unguarded, which is seldom the case, they lull every one without distinction, without sparing even the women and children ; when they have completed the inhuman massacre, they either gorge themselves on the spot, or carry off as many dead bodies as they can, and feast on them at home, with the most horrid acts of brutality. If they are dis- covered before they have time to execute their sanguinary pu'-pose, they usually steal off again, and sometimes they are pursued and attached by the adverse party, in their turn. They never give quarter, or take prirjoners, so that the vanquished must trust 'o flight alone for safety. Froi i this state of perpetual hostility, and this destructive mode of carrying it i,n, a Ni w Zealander derives such habitual vigilance and circumspection, that he is scarcely ever off his guard : and^ indeed, these people have the most powerful motives to be vigilant, as the preserva- tion of both soul and body depends on it ; for it is a part of their creed, that the soul of the man whose flesh is devoured by his enemies, is condemned to an incessant fire ; while the soul of him whose body has been rescued from those that dew him, as well as the souls of those who die a natural death, c^cend to the mansions of the gods. Captain Cook having asked tfiem, whe- ther they eat the flesh of such friends as had lost their lives in war, but whose bodies had been prevented from falling into the enemy's hands ? they answered \x the negkiitive^ and expressed their abho, renoe of the idea. cook's third voyage, 1776—1780. 100 nee on-board. n and all his )uld never re- Phe day before to receive her e and her son ion. But she her word ; for 3Lst farewell of she remained boy of about servant ; his lin Cook by idifference, as aptain having 3 great impro- l^th consented ider continual most of their n some other it is not im- lently a great e party in the lichis seldom thout sparing mpleted the the spot, or t on them at ;hey are dis- sanguinary [ties they are turn. They vanquished jof peipetual on, a NiW mspection, ihese psople ic preserva- |is a part of voured by the soul of ew him, as end to the em, whe- ir lives in ig into the expressed Their ordinary method of disposing of their dead is to commit their bodies to the earth ; but when they have more of their slain enemies than they can conveniently eat, they throw them into the sea. There are no morais, or other places of public worship among them ; but they have priests, who pray to the gods for the success of their temporal affairs. The principles of tiieir religion, of which we know but little, are strongly instilled into them from their infancy. Captain Cook observed a remark- able instance of this in a youth, who abstained from eating during the greatest part of the day, merely on account of his hair being cut, though every method was practiced that could induce him to change his resolution. He said that the eatoon, or deity, would kill him if he ate anjr thing on that day. To wards the evening, however, his religious scruples gave way to ^he importunate cravings of appetite, and he ate, though spar- Notwithstanding the divided state in which these people live, travelling strangers whose designs are honourable, are well received and entertained ; but it is expected that they will remain no longer than their business requires. It is thus that a trade for green talc, which they called poenuftimoo^ is carried on. They informed Captain Cook, that none of this stone is to be found, except at a place which bears its name, near the head of Queen Charlotte's Sound. They also related many fabulous and improbable stories concerning this stone, one of which is, that it is originally a fish, which they strike with a gig in the water, and having tied a rope to it, di-ag it to the shore, to which they fasten it, and it afterwards hardens into a stone. As it is fished out of a large lake, it is probable that it may be brought from the mountains, and deposited in the water, by means of the torrents. This lake is called by the inhabitants Favai Pomam- moo^ or the water of green talc. The New Zealanders have adopted polygamy among them; and it is common for one man to have two or three wives. The women are marriageable at an early age ; and those who are unmarried, find difficulty in procuring subsistence. Theae people seem perfectly contented with the small degree of knowledge they possess, for they make no attempts to improve it. They are not remarkably curious, nor do new objects strike them with much surprise, for they scarcely fix their attention for a moment. Omai, indeed, being a great favourite with them, would sometimes attract a circle about him ; but they listened to his speeches with very little eagerness. On their inquiring of Taweiharooa, how many ships resembling theirs hat ever arrived in Queen Charlotte's Sound, or its neighbourhood^ he gave them an account of one entirely unknown to them. Tliis vessel had put into a harbour on the north-west coast of Teerawitte, afewyears before Captain Cook arrived in the Soimd m the Ejideavour. He further informed them that the captain of I I l;l V ;':, ■f no cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. and equal to a man's body in circumference. H> it they burrow in the ground; that the^ sometimes seize and devour men ; and are killed by making fires at the mouths of their holes. They could not misunderstand him with respect to the animal, for, i*! order to shew them what he meant, he drew with liis own hand very good representations of a lizard and snake oa .? piece of paper. The longitude of Ship Gove, by lunar observations, is 174 deg. 25 min. 15 sec. east; its latitude 41 deg. 6 min. south. The following additional particulars of the country and its in- habitants are by Mr. Anderson : — '' About Queen Charlotte's Sound, the land is uncommonly mountainous, rising immediately from the sea into large hills. At remote distances are vallies, terminating each towards th«^ sea in a small cove, with a pebbly or sandy beach, behind whi are flat places, where the natives usually build their huts. TM situation is the more convenient, as a brook of fine water runs tlirou^h every cove, and empties itself into the sea. *' The bases of these mountains, towards the shore, are con- stituted of a brittle, yellowish, sandy stone, which acquires a bluish cast where it is laved by the sea. At someplaces it runs m horizontal, and, at others, in oblique strata. The mould or soil by which it is covered resembles marl, and is in general a foot or two in thickness. The luxui lant growth of the produc- tions here, sufficiently indicates the quality of the soil. T;ji^ hills, except a few towards the sea, are one continued fore i o; lofty trees, flourishing with such uncommon vigour, as to atfi.r :i an august prospect to the admirers of the sublime and beautiful works of nature. This extraordinary sti'ength in vegetation is, doubtless, greatiy assisted by the agreeable temperature of tlie climate ; for at this time, though answering to our month of August, the weather was not so warm as to be disagreeable; { hpr, during his continuance there, had cohabited with a female of the country, who had bom him a son who was still living. He also menboned, that this ship first introduced an odious dis- ease among the natives of Ni^w Zealand. This dreadful dis- order is now but too common among them. The only method they put in practice as a remedy, is to give the patient the use oi' a kind of hot-bath, produced by the stems of certain grt«n plants placed over hot stones. Taweiharooa's intelligence induced them to believe, that a siiip had really been at Teerawitte previous to Captain Cook's arrival in the Endeavour, as it corresponded with what the captain had formerly heard; for, towards the latter end of 1773, some of the natives informed him of a ship having put into a a port on the coast of Teerawitte. " They had another piece of information from Taweiharooa, importing that there are here snakes and lizards of an enormous size. The latter were described by him as being '-igh *?et long, Ij cook's third voyage, 1776—1780. Ill iitli a female I still living, n odious dis- dreadful dis- only method itient the use ;ertain grtcn lieve, that a ptain Cook's th what the end of 1773, g put into a Paweiharooa, an enonnous jh *ret long, iRJ;; '-it they and devour )f their holes. ) the animal, rew with his d snake oa s tions, is 174 . south, and its in- mcommonly large hills, [towards th^ jhindwhi huts. T^ water runs fe, are con- acquires a laces it runs mould or general a Ihe produc- IsoiK Tlie id fore ■ ol to atf(.K' beautiful station is, [ure of tJie month of igreeable; nor did it raise the thermometer higher than 66 deg. The winter also seems equally mild with respect to cold: for, in the month which corresponds .to our December, the mercury was never lower than 48 deg.j the trees at the same time retaining their verdure, as if in the height of summer. It is supposed their foliage remains till pushed off in spring by the succeeding leaves. " Though the weather is generally good, it is sometimes windy, with heavy rain ; which, however, is never excessive, and does not last above a day. In short, this would be one of the finest countries on earth, were it not so extremely hilly ; which, sup- posing the woods to be cleared away, would leave it less proper for pasturage than flat land ; and inhnitely less so for cultivation, which could never be effected here by the plough. The large t»"ee« on the hills are principally of two sorts. One of them, of tlie size of our largest firs, grows nearly after their manner. This supplied tlie place of spruce in making beer ; which we did witli a decoction of its leaves fermented with sugar or treacle ; and this liquor was acknowledged to be little inferior to the Ame- rican spruce-beer. The other sort of tree is like a maple, and often grows very large, but is fit only for fuel ; the wood of that, and the preceding, being too heavy for masts or yards, &c. A great variety of trees grow on the fiats behind the beaches : two of these bear a kind of plum, of the size of prunes ; the one, whidi is yellow, is called karraca, and the other, which is black, is culled tnaitao; but neither of them har* a pleasant taste, though eaten both by our people and the natives. *' On the eminences which jut out into the sea, grOw a species of philadelphus, and a tree bearing flowers almost like myrtle. We used the leaves of the pliiladelphus as tea, and found them an excellent substitute for the oriental sort. *^ A kind of wild celery, which grows plentifully in almost every cove, may be reckoned among the plants that were useful to us; and another that we used to call scurvy-grass. Both sorts were boiled daily with wheat ground in a mill, for the peo- ple's breakfast, and with their pease-soup for dinner. Some- times also they were used''as salad, or dressed as greens. In all which ways they are excellent ; and together with the fish with winch we were amply supplied, they formed a most desirable refreshment. " Tlie known kind of plants to be found here are bind-weed, night«shade, nettles, a shrubby speed-well, sow-thistles, virgin's bower, vanelloe, French willow, euphorbia, crane's-bill, cud- weed, rushes, bulrushes, flax, all-heal, American night-shade, knotrgrass, brambles, eye-bright, and groundsel ; but the spe- cies of each are different from any we have in Europe. There are a great number of other plants, but one in particular deserves to be noticed here, as the garments of the natives are made of it. A fine silky flax is produced from it, superior in appear^ince to any thing we have in this country, and perhaps 112 cook's third voyage, 1770—1780. as strong. It grows in all places near the sea, and sometimes a considerable way up the hills in bunches or tufts, bearing yellowish flowers on a long stalk." It is remarkable that the greatest part of the trees and plants were of the berry-bearing kind ; of which, and other seeds, Mr. Anderson brought away about thirty different sorts. " The birds, of which there is a tolerable good stock, are almost entirely peculiar to the place. It would be difficult and fatiguing to follow them, on account of the quantity of underwood, and the climbing plants ; yet any person, by con- tinuing in one place, may shoot as many in a day as would serve seven or eight persons. The principal kinds are large brown parrots, with grey heads, green paroquets, large wood- pigeons, and two sorts of cuckoos. A gross-beak, about the size of a thrush is frequent ; as is also a small green bird, which is almost the only musical one to be found here ; but his melody is S'. ' % and his notes so varied, that one would imagine himseL .ounded by a hundred different sorts of birds, when the little kvarbler is exerting himself. From this circumstance it was named the mocking-bird. There are also three or four sorts of smaller birds ; and, among the rocks, are found black sea-pies with red bills, and crested shags of a leaden colour. About the shore there are a few sea-gulls, some blue herons, wild ducks, plovers, and some sand-larks. A snipe was shot here, which differs but little from that of Europe. " Most of the fish we caught by the seine were elephant-fish, mullets, soles, and flounders ; but the natives supplied us witii a sort of sea-bream, large conger-eels, and a fish of five or six pounds weight, called a mogge by tlie natives. With a hook and line we caught a blackish fish, called cole-fish b^ the sea- men, but differing greatly from that of the same name in Europe. We also got a sort of small salmon, skate, gurnards, and nurses. The natives sometimes furnished us with hake, paracutas, par- rot-fish, a sort of mackarel, and leather-Jackets; beside anotner, which is extremely scarce,^ of the figure of a dolphin, of a black colour, and strong, bony jaws. These, in general, are excellent to eat ; but the small salmon, cole-fish, and mogge, are superior to Xh.e others. Great quantities of excellent muscles inhabit among the rocks ; one sort of which exceeds a foot in lengtii. Many cockles are found buried in the sand of the small beaches ; and, in some places, oysters, which, though very small, have an excellent flavour. There are also periwinkles, limpets, wilks, sea-eggs, star-fish, and some beautiful sea-ears, many of which are peculiar to the place. The natives also furnished ui% with some excellent cray-fish. ^ " Insects here are not very numerous : we saw some butter- flies, two sorts of dragon-flies, some small ^rass-hoppers, several sorts of spiders, some black ants, and scorpion-flies innumerable, with whose chirping the woods resounded. The sand-fly, which '3'*>. ind sometimes tufts, bearing ees and plants her seeds, Mr. ts, >od stock, BTQ i be difficult le quantity of 3rson, by con- day as would nds are large , large wood- ak, about the in bird, which )ut his melody ^ould imagine f birds, when circumstance ► three or four J found black 3aden colour. blue herons, lipe was shot elephant-fish, plied us witli of five or six ^ith a hook I b^ the sca- le in Europe. , and nurses, racutas, par- ide another, , of a black re excellent ire superior ;les inhabit in length. " beaches ; dl, have an )ets, wilks, [y of which \ed ui^with le butter- jrs, several ^imerable, -fly, which cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. 113 is the only noxious one, is very numerous here, and is almost as disagreeable as the mosquitoe. The only reptiles we saw here, were two or three sorts of inoffensive lizards. *' In this extensive land it is remarkable, that there should not even be the traces of any quadruped, except a few rats, and a kind of fox-dog, which is kept by the natives as a domestic animal. They have not any mineral deserving notice, but a green ja.sper or serpent-stone, of which the tools and ornaments of the inhabitants are made. This is held in high estimation among them; and they entertain some superstitious notions :about the mode of its generation, which we could not compre- hend : they say, it is taken from a large river far to the south- ward; it is disposed in the earth in detached pieces like flints, and, like them, the edges are covered with a whitish crust. '* The natives, in general, are not so well formed, especially iibcut the limbs, as the Europeans, nor do they exceed them in stature. Their sitting so much on their hams, and being de- prived, by the mountainous disposition of the country, of using that kind of exercise which would render the body straight «nd well-proportioned, is probably the occasion of the want of due proportion. Many of them, indeed, are perfectly formed, and some are very large-boned and muscular; but very few among them were corpulent. Their features are various, some resembling Europeans, and their colour is of difierent casts, jfrom a deep black to an olive or yellowish tinge. In general, however, their faces are round, their lips rather full, and their noses (though not flat) large towards the point. An aquiline nose was not to be seen among them ; their eyes are large, and their teeth are commonly broad, white, and regular. ITieir hair, in general, is black, strong, and straight; it is commonly cut short an the hinder part, and the rest tied on the crown of the head. Some, ip^ ed, have brown hair, and others a sort that is natu- rally disposed to curl. The countenance of the young is gene- rally free and open ; but in many of the men, it has a serious ^ or sullen cast. The men are larger than the women; and the latter are not distinguished by peculiar graces either of form or [features. " Both sexes are clothed alike ; they have a garment made of [tlie silky flax already mentioned, about five feet in length, and [four in bireadth. llus appears to be their principal manufacture, which iti performed by knotting. The corners of this garment ^pass over the shoulders, and they fasten it on the breast with that which covers the body ; it is a^ain fastened about the heV with a girdle made of mat. Sometimes they cover it with dog- skin or large feathers. Many of them wear coats over this i garment, extending from their shoulders to the heels. The most common covering, however, is a quantity of the sedgy [ plant abovementioned, badly manufactured, fastened to a string, land thrown over the shoulders, whence it fells down on all sides 1 1 f |i il 1 i i [. i ■4 r' t'i '•;'. ■I 114 cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. to the middle of the thighs. When they sat down in this habif, the^ could hardly be distinguished from large grey stones, it tiieir black heads did not project beyond their coverings. " They adorn their heads with feathers, combs of bone or wood, with pearl shell, and the inner skin of leaves. Both men and women have their ears slit, in which are hung beads, pieces of jasper, or bits of cloth. Some have the septum of the nose bored in its lower part ; but we never saw any ornament wore in that part, though a tvrig was passed through it by one of them to shew that it was occasionally used for that purpose. " Many are stained in the face with curious figures of a black or dark blue colour; V/at it is not certain whether this is in- tended to be ornamental, or as a mark of particular distinction: the women are marked only on their lips and chins ; and both sexes besmear their heads and faces with a greasv, reddish paint, The women also wear necklaces of shark's teeth, or bunches of long beads ; and a few of them have small triangular aprons, adorned with feathers, or pieces of pearl shells, fastened about the waist with a double or treble set of cords. They live in the small coves already mentioned, sometimes in single families, and sometimes in companies of perhaps forty or fifty. Their huts, which are in general most miserable lodging places, are built contiguous to each other. The best we saw was built in tlie manner of one of our country barns, and was about six feet in height, fifteen in breadth, and thirty-three in length. The inside was strong and regular, well fastened by means of withes, &c, and painted red and black. At one end it had a hole serving as a door to creep out at, and another considerably smaller, seemingly for the purpose of letting out the smoke. This, how- ever, ought to be considered as one of their palaces, for many of their huts are not of half the size, oiid seldom are more than four feet in height. ** They have no other furniture than a few small bags or bas- kets, in which they deposit their fishing huoks and other trifles, They sit down in the middle round a small fire, and probably sleep in the same situation, without any other covering than what they have worn in the day. " Fishing is their principal support, in which they use differ- ent kinds of nets, or wooden fish-hooks pointed with bone ; but made in so extraordinary a manner, that it appears astonishing h'iVf they can answei- such a purpose. " Their boats consist of planks raised upon each other, and ^tened with strong withes. Many of them are fifty feet long. Sometimes they fasten two together with rafters, which we call a double canoe ; they frequently carry upwards of thirty men, and have a large head, ingeniously carved and painted, which seems intended to represent a man enraged. Their paddles are narrow^ {minted, and about five feet long. Their sail, which is very ittle used is a mat formed into a triangular shape. rn in this habit, grey stones, it fc^erings. lbs of bone or es. Both men 5 beads^ pieces am of the nose lament wore in jy one of them pose. ures of a bhck :her this is in- a,r distinction: lins ; and both , reddish paint. , or bunches of ngular aprons, fastened about 'hey live in the le families, and y. Their huts, aces, are built s built in the bout six feet in h. The inside of withes, &c, a hole serving rably smaller, This, how- s, for many of nore than four cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. 115 3. bags or hdA- other trifles. ind probably fovering than ley use differ- Ith bone ; but |s astonishing ph other, and Ity feet long. ich we call a rty men, and irhich seems are narrow, ich is very " They dress their fish by roasting, or rather baking them, being entirely ignorant of the art of boiling. It is thus they also dress the root of the large fern-tree, in a hole prepared for that purpose ; when dressed, they spUt it, and find a gelatinous sub- stance within, somewhat like sago powder, llie smaller fern- root seems to be their substitute for bread, bein^ dried and carried about with them, together with great quantities of dried fish, when they go far from their habitations. " When (be weather will not suffer them to go to sea, muscles and sea-^ars supply the place of other fish. Sometimes, but not often, they kill a few penguins, rails, and shags, which enable them to vary their diet. Considerable nunibers of their dogs are also bred for food ; but they depend principally on the sea for their subsistence, by which they are most bountifully sup- pUed. ** They are as filthy in their feeding aa in their persons^ whicli often emit a very offensive efliuvia, from the quantity of greaKe about them, and from their never washing their clothes : their heads are plentifully stocked with vermin, which they sometimes eat. Large quantities of stinking train oil and blubber of seals fhey would ei^g^erly devour. When on-board the ships^ they not only emptied the lamps, but actually swallowed the cotton with equal voracity. Though the inhabitants of Van Dieman's Land would not even taste our bread, these people devoured it with the greatest eagerness, even when it was rotten and mouldy. " In point of ingenuity they are not behind any uncivilized nations; under similar circumstances : for, vtdthout the assistance of metal tools , they make every thing by which they procure their subsistence, clothing, and warlike weapons, with neatness,, strength, and convenience. Their principal mechanical tool is formed in the manner of an adze, and is made of the serpent- stone or Jasper; their chisel and gouge are furnished from the same material, though they are sometimes composed of black,^ solid stone. Carving, however, is their masterpiece, which ap- pears upon the most trifling things : the ornaments on the heads of their canoes, not only display much design, but execution. Tlieir cordage for fishing-lines is not inferior to that of this coun- try, and their netr^ are equally good. A shell, a bit of flint, or jasper, is their substitute for a knife, and a shark's tooti, fixed in the end of a piece of wood, is their auger. They have a saw niade of some jagged fishes' teeth, fixed on a piece of wood nicely carved; but this is used for no other purpose tban to cut up the bodies of those whom they kill in battle. " Though no people are more ready to resent an injury, yet they take every opportunity of being insolent, when they appre- hend there is no danger of punishment ; whence it may be con- cluded, that their eagerness to resent injuries is rather an effect of a furious disposition than genuine bravery. They are naturally mistrustful and suspicious, for such as were strangers never ve« IIG cook's third voyage, 177G — 1780. I'l ^■t tnred immediately to visit our ships, but kept at a small distance in their boats, observing our motions, and hesitating whether they should risk their safety with us. They are to the last de. gree dishonest, and steal every thing within their reach, if they suppose they can escape detection ; and, in trading, they seem inclined to take every possible advantage ; for they never tnist an article out of their hands for examination, and seem highly pleased if they have over-reached you in a bargain. ^ ** Such conduct, indeed, is not surprising, when it is con- sidered that there appears to be but little subordination, and few, if any, laws for the punishment of transgressors. iNo man's authority extends beyond his own family ; and when they join, at any time, for mutual defence or safety, those among them who are most eminent for valour and prudent conduct are directors. ** Their public contentions are almost perpetual, for war is their principal profession, as appears from their number of wea- pons, and their dexterity in using them. Their arms are spears, patoos, and halberts, and sometimes stones. The first are from live to thirty feet long, made of hard wood and pointed. The patoo is about eighteen inches long, of an elliptical shape, with a handle made of wood, stone, &c. and appears to be their prin- cipal dependence in battle. The halbert is about five or six feet in length, tapering at one end with a carved head, and broad or flat, wim sharp edges at the other. ^Before the onset, they join in a war song, keeping the ex- actest time; and by degrees, work themselves into a kind of frantic fury, accompanied with the most horrid distortions of their tongues, eyes, and mouths, in order to deter their enemies. To this succeeds a circumstance that is most horrid, cruel, and dis- graceful to human nature, which is mangling and cutting to pieces (even when not perfectly dead) the bodies of their ene- mies ; and, after roasting them, devouring their flesh with pe- culiar pleasure and satisfaction. /^ It might naturally be supposed, that those who could be capable of such excess of cruelty, must be totally destitute of every humane feeling ; and yet they lament the loss of their friends in a manner the most tender and affectionate. Both men and women, upon the death of their relations and friends, bewail them with the most miserable cries ; at the same time cutting large gashes in their cheeks and foreheads, with shells, or pieces of nint, till the blood flows copiously and mixes with their tears. lliey also carve a resemblance of a human figure, and hang it about their necks, as a memorial of those who were dear to them. They also perform the ceremony of lamenting and cutting for joy, at the return of a friend who has been some time absent. * In the practices of their fathers, whether good or bad, their children are, at an early age, instructed; so that you find a child of either sex, of the age of nine or ten years, abfe to imitate cook's third voyage, 1776—1780. 117 small distance tating whether to the last de- r reach, if they ing, they seem ley never tnist d seem highly hen it is con- tation, and fen, rs. iNo man's vhen they join, 3 among them t conduct are lal, for war is umber of wea- rms are spears, e first are from pointed. The ;al shape, with be their prin- out five or six ead, and broad ^eeping the ex- ito a kind of irtions of their enemies. To iruel, and dis- id cutting to of their ene- lesh with pe- krho could be ly destitute of lloss of their Both men lends, be\vail [time cutting ]ls, or pieces their tears. land hang it lear to them. cutting for absent. Ir bad, their |you find a to imitate the frightful motions and gestures of the men. They also sing, and with some degree of melody, the traditions and actions nt their forefathers, with which they are immoderately delighted, Itnd pass much of their time in these amusements, accompanied iometimes with a kind of flute. " Their language is neither harsh nor disagreeable. Whatever qualities are requisite to make a language musical, obtain to a Considerable degree in this, if we may judge from the melody of '^)ieir songs. It is not, indeed, so comprehensive as our Euro- >ean languages, which owe their perfection to long and gradual iprovement." , - « i On the morning of the 25th of Februaiv, our navigators left i|ie Sound, and made sail through Cook's Straits. On the 37th, iiiw Cape Palliser, bearing west about seven leagues distant, had tk fine gale, and steered towards the north-east. As soon as they lost sight of land, the two young New Zealanders heartily re- oented of the adventurous step they had taken ; and though they endeavoured as fur as lay in their power to soothe them, they Jirept both in public and private ; and gave vent to their sorrows %k a kind of song, which seemed to express their praises of their oountry and people, from which they were now, in all proba- Ijiility, to be for ever separated. They continued in this state for several days, till, at length, the agitation of their minds began |o subside, and their sea-sickness, which had aggravated their jjmef, wore off. Their lamentations then became less frequent ; ^leir native country, their kindred, and friends, were gradually forgotten, and they appeared to be firmly attached to our \l iailors. On the 28th. at noon, being in the latitude of 41 deg. 17 min. jiouth, and in the longitude of 177 deg. 17 min. e? %!, they tacked ibout, and stood to the south-east, with a gentle breeze at east lorth-east, which afterwards veered to north-east, in which »oint the wind remained two days, sometimes blowing a fresh ^ale with squalls and rain. On the 2nd of March it shifted to lorth-west, and afterwards to south-west, between which point and le north it continued to blow, sometimes very moderately, and It others a strong gale. With this wind they steered north-east )y east and east, with all the sail they could carry, till Tuesday |;ne 11th, when they veered to north-eas*^ and south-east ; they then stood to the north, and the south-east, as the wind would lermit, till the 16th, when, having a gale from the north, they stood to the east. The next day^ they proceeded to the north- east ; but, as the wind frequently veered to east and east north- east, they often made no better than a northerly course. T1»c lopes, however, of the wind coming more southerly, or from the ^vestward, a little without the tropic of Capricorn, encouraged the commodore to keep this course. It was, indeed, necessary lat they should run all hazards, as their proceeding to the north khis summer, in prosecution of the principal object of the expe- m t '/It I 1V8 cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. rlition, entirely depended on their having a quick passage to Otaheite, or the Society Isles. They crossed the Tropic oik the 27th, the wind, for a consider- able time before, having remained almost invariably fixed f at ea.st south-east. In all this run they observed nothing that could induce them to suppose they had sailed near any land, except occasionally a tropic bird, in the latitude of 34 deg. ^0 min. longitude 190 deg. they passed the tnmk of a tree, which ap. peared much weather-beaten, and was covered with barnacks. On the 5i9th, as they were standing to the north-east, the Din- covery made the signal of seeing land. They soon found it tn be a small island, and stood for it till the evening ; when it was at the distance of two or three leagues. The next morning, at day-break, they bore up for the westrside of the island, and saw several people wading to the reef, where, as they observed the shin leaving them quickly, they remained. But others, who suon appeared, followed her course ; and some of them assembled in smaJl bodies, making great shouts. Upon a nearer approach to the shore, they saw many of the natives running along the beach, and by the assistance of their glasses, could perceive that they were armed with long spears and clubs, which they brandished in the air with signs of threatening, or, as some of them supposed, with invitations to land. Most of them were naked, except having a kind of gir- dle, which was brought up between their thighs ; but some of them wore about their shoulders pieces of cloth of varioiis colours, white, striped, or chequered ; and almost all of them had about their heads a white wrapper, in some degree resem- bling a turban. They were of a tawny complexion, robust, and about the middle size. At the same time a small canoe was launched from the farther end of the beach ; and, a mai getting into it^ put off as with a view to reach the ship. On this the captain brought too, that he might receive the visit ; but the man's resolution failing, he soon returned towards the beach, where, after some time, another man joined him in the canoe ; and they both paddled towards the ship. They stopt short, howe '/er, as if afraid to approach, until Omai, who addressed them in the Otaheite language, in some measure quieted their appre.xensions. They then came near enough to take some beads and nails, which were tied to a piece of wood, and thrown into the canoe. They seemed afraid to touch these things, and put the piece of wooa aside^ without 'untying them. This, however, might arise from, superstition ; for Omai said, that when they saw our men offering tiiem presents, they asked something for their JSatooa, or god. He also, perhaps improperly, put the question to them^ whether they ever ate any human flesh? which they answered in the negative, with a mix- ture of indignation and abhorrence. One of them, whose name was Mourooa, being asked how he came by a scar on his fore M ■f ck passage to , for a consider, jly fixed f at east ing that could ly land, except U deg. 20 min, tree, which ap- with barnacles. Ii-east, the Din- ion found it to f ; when it was ;xt morning, at aland, and saw sy observed the ut others, who them assembled iw many of the I assistance of med with long lir with signs of th invitations to g a kind of gir- ls ; but some of oth of varioiis )st all of them degree resem- >n, robust, and om the farther it off as with a it too, that he tiling, he soon [time, another Idled towards to approach^ language, in ^y then came /ere tied tea seemed afraid side, without ierstition ; for |em presents, dso, perhaps ever ate any with a mix- fwhose name on his fore- f cook's XmRD VOYAGE, 1776 — 1780. 119 head, answered that it was in consequence of a wound he had got in lighting with the people of an island which lies towards the north-east, who sometimes came to invade them. They after>vardi took hold of a rope. Still, however, they would not venture on-board ; but told Omai, that their countrymen had given them this caution, at the same time, directing tnem to in- quire whence the ship came, and the name of the captain. Their chief, they said, was called Orooaeeka. Upon our inquiring the name of the island, they told us it was Mangya, or Mangtw^ to which they sometimes added nooe, nai, naiwa. Mourooa was lusty, but not very tall ; his features were agree- able, and his disposition seemingly no less so; for he made several droll gesticulations, which indicated both good-nature, and a share of humour. He also made others which seemed of a serious kind, and repeated some words with a devout air, before he ventured to lay hold of the rope ; which was probably to recommend himself to the protection of some divinity. His colour wvi^ nearly of the same cast with that common to the more southern Europeans. The other man was not so hand- some. Both of them had strong, straight hair, of a jet colour, tied together on the crown of the head with a bit of cloth. They wore girdles which were a substance made from^ the morus pa- pyrifera in the same manner as at the other islands in this ocean. It was glazed like the sort used by the natives at the Friendly Islands ; but the cloth on their heads was white, like that which was found at Otaheite. They had on a kind of white sandals, made of a grassy substance interwoven, and probably intended to defend their feet against the rough, coral rock. Their beards were long ; and the inside of their arms, from the shoulder to the elbow, and some other parts, were punctured or tatooedj after the manner of the natives of almost all the other islands in the South Sea. The lobe of the ears was pierced, or rather slit, and to such a length, that one of them stuck there a knife and some beads, which had been given to him ; and the same person had two polished pearl shells, and a bunch of human hair, loosely twisted, hanging about his neck. The canoe they came in was not above ten feet long, and very narrow, but both strong and neatly made. The fore part had a flat board fastened over it, and projecting out to prevent the sea getting in or plunging. The lower part was of white wood ; but the upper part was black, and their paddles were made of wood of the same colour ; these were broad at one end, and blunted, about three feet long. It had an upright stern, five feet high, which terminated at the top in a kind of fork. They paddled, in differently, either end of the cano^ forward. As soon as the ships were in a proper station. Captain Cook sent out two boats to endeavour to find a convenient place for landing. In one of them he went liimself, and had no sooner put off from the ship, than the two men in the canoe paddled r^o cook's third voyage, 1776—1780. , 'ivithout hesitation stept into her. Omai, wlio was ' with the captain, was desired to inquire of the islander where they could land ; upon which he directed them to two places. But they soon observed, with regret, that the attempt at either place was impracticable, on account of the surf, unless at the , risk, of having the boats destroyed. Nor were they more sue- cesr.ful in their search for anchorage, as they could find no bottom within a cable's length of the breakers, where they met with from forty to twenty fathoms' depth, over sharp rocks of coral. While they thus reconnoitred the shore of Mangeea,the natives thronged down upon the reef, all armed. Mourooa, who still re- mained in the boat with Captain Cook, thinking, perhaps, that •this warlike appearance deterred them from landing, commanded them to retire. As many of them complied, it was imagined that he was a person of some consequence : indeed, if they did not misunderstand him, he was brother to the king of the island. Several of them instigated by curiosity, swam from the shore to " the boats, and came on-boardthem without reserve. They even ^ found some difficulty in keeping them out, anr^ could scarce prevent their pilfering whatever they could lay th hands upon. At length, when they observed them returning i ships, they i all left our navigators except Mourooa, who, tnougii not without manifest indications of fear, accompanied the commodore on- board the Resolution. The cattle and other new objects that he saw there did not strike him with much sui*prise ; his mind, per- haps, being too much occupied about his own safety, to allow " him to attend to other things. He seemed very uneasy, and fave them but little new intelligence ; and, therefore, after he ad continued a short time on-board. Captain Cook ordered a boat to carry him towards the land. In his way out of the cabin, happening to stumble over one of the goats, he stopped, looked at the animal, and asked Omai what bird it was: but not receiving an immediate answer from him, he put the same ques- tion to some of the people who were upon deck. The boat i having conveyed him near the surf, he leaped into the water, and swam a-shore. His countrvmen, eager to learn from him what he had seen, flocked round him as soon as he had landed; in which situation they remained when the ship lost sight ot' them. They hoisted in the boat as soon as she returned, and made sail to the northward. Thus they were obliged to leave this fine island unvisited, which seemed capable of supplying all their necessities. It is situated in the longitude of 201 deg. 53 min. east, and in the latitude ^f 21 deg. 57 min. south. Those parts of the coast of Mangeea, which fell under observation, are guarded by a reef of coral rock, against which a heavy surf is continually breaking. The island is about five leagues in circumference, and though of a moderate and pretty t cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. 121 le along-side, nai, who was islander where to two places. ;empt at either ', unless at the iiey more sue- could find no here they met harp rocks of »ea, the natives a, who still re- perhaps, that ^, commanded was imagined 5d, if they did J of the island. tn the shore to e. They even could scarce hands upon. ships, they jli not witliout om.nodore on- )bjects that he lis mind, per- ifety, to allow uneasy, and fore, after he ik ordered a of the cabin, iped, looked as: but not ie same ques- The boat to the water, Irn from him Ihad landed; lost sight oi Iturned, and red to leave ipplying all 201 deg. 53 [fell under linst which about five and pretty equal height, may be seen in clear weather at the distance of ten leagues. In the interior parts it rises into small hills, whence there is an easy descent to the shore, which, in the south-west part is steep, though not very high, and has several excavations made by the dashing of the waves against a brownish, sandv stone, of which it consists. The descent here abounds with trees of a deep green, which seem to be all of one sort except nearest the shore, where we observed numbers of that species of dracana found in the woods of New Zealand. The shore, on ^the north-west part, terminates in a sandy beach, beyond Which the land is broken into small chasms, and has a broad border of trees which resemble tall willows. Farther up, on the ascent, the trees were of the deep green above-mentioned, ^hich some of us imagined to be the rima, intermixed with eocoa-pahns, and a few other sorts. Some trees of a taller sort trere thinly scattered on the hills, the other parts of which were either covered with something like fern, or were bare, and of a reddish colour. The island upon the whole, has a pleasing ap- Karance, and might, by proper cultivation, be made a very autiful spot. f The natives appearing to be both numerous and well fed, it is highly probable, that such articles of provision as the island pro- duces, are found in great abundance. Mourooa informed them, that they had no hogs or dogs, though they had heard of both those animals ; but that they had plantains, taro, and bread-fruit. The onlv birds they observed, were some terns, noddies, white egg-birds, and one white heron. ». The language of the Mangeeans is a dialect of that of Otaheite, but their pronunciation is more guttural. They resemble the in- habitants of Otaheite and the Marquesas in the beauty of their persons; and their general disposition also seems to correspond J with that of the first-mentioned people ; for they are not only livelj and cheerful, but are acquainted with all the lascivious gesticulations practised by .he Otaheiteans in their dances. , Tliey had likewise reason to suppose that they have similar me- thods of living : for, though they had not an opportunity of seeing many of theirhabitations, they observed one house near the beach, which, in its mode of construction, differed little from those of Otaheite. It appeared to be about seven or eight feet high, and about thirty in length, with an open end, which repre.- sented^ an ellipse, or oval, transversely ctivided. It was plea- santly situated in a grove. These people salute strangers by joining noses, and taking the hand of the person whom they accost, which they rub with ^some force upon their mouth and nose. It is worthy of remark, that the inhabitants of the Palaos, New Philippine, or rather Caroline Islands, though at the di»- tance of near 1,500 leagues from Mangeea, have a similar method of salutation. They quitted Mangeea in the afternoon of the 30th of March, G G ti 122 N cook's TmRD VOYAGE, 1776 — 1780. and proceeding on a northerly course, again discovered land, on the 31st, at the distance of nine or ten leagues. The rcxt morn- ing they were a-breast of its north-end, within four leagues of it. It now appeared to be an island nearly of the same exteiAt with that which they had jusL left. Another island, much smaller, was also descried right ahead. Though they could soon have reached this, they preferred the larger one, as being the most likely to furnish food for the caule. They therefore made sail to it; but there being little wind, and that unfavourable, they were still about two leagues to leeward at eight o'clock the suc- ceeding morning. The commodore, soon after, dispatched three armed boats under the command of Mr. Gore, his firs: lieutenant^ in search of a landing-place and anchoring-ground. Meanv/hile they plied up under the island with the ships. As the boats 'Were putting off, they saw several canoes coming from the shore, which repaired first to the Discovery, as that ship was the nearest. Not long after, three of these canoes, each conducted by one man, came along-side of the Resolution. They are long aud narrow^ and are supported by out-riggers : the head is flat above, but prow-like below ; and the stern is about four feet high. They bestowed on the visitors some knives, beads, and other trifles ; and they gave in return some cocoa-nuts, in con- sequence of their having asked for them ; but they did not part with them by way of exchange, as they seemed to have no idea of bartei or traific. On ^ of tnem, after a little persuasion, came on-board ; and the other two soon followed his example. They appeared to be perfectly at ease, and free from all apprehension. After their departure, a man arrived in another canoe, bring- ing a bunch of plantains as a present to Captain Cook, who gave him in return, f* piece of red cloth and an axe. They weic afterwards informed by Omai, that this present had been sent from the king of the island. Soon after a double canoe, containing twelve of the islanders, came towards them. On approaching the ship, they recited some words in concert, by way of chorus, one of them first giving the word before eacfi repetition. Having finished this solemn chant, they came along- side 3nd asked for the chief. As soon as Captain Cook had made his appearance, a pig and some cocoa-nuts were conveyed into the ship ; and the captain was also presented with a piece of matting, by the principal person in the canoe, when he and his companions had got on-board. These new visitors were introduced into the cabin, and conducted to other parts of the ship. Though some objects seemed to surprise them, nothing could fix their attention. They were afraid to venture near the cows and horses, of whose nature they could form no conception. As for the sheep and goats, they gave them to understand that they knew them to be birds. It is a matter of astonishment that human ignorance could ever make so ridiculous a mistake, cook's third voyage, 1776—1780. 133 1 lani, on cxt nuorn- gues of it. ttei\t with 1 smaller^ soon have ; the most made sail •able, they 3k the suc- ched thre^ lieutenant, 3l»Ieanv/hile J the boats from the ip was the conducted ;y are long head is flat t four feet beads, and ats, in con- id not part ive no idea Lsion, came lie. They >rehension. ioe, brmg- |Cook, who lxp. Tliey t had been Lble canoe, [lem. On oncert, by fore each .me along- ICook had conveyed th apiece n he and Ibin, and Ve objects [attention. lorses, of for the [that they lent that mistake, as there is not the smallest resemblance between any wmged creature and a sheep or goat. But these people seemed unac- quainted with the existence of any other land animals, than hogs, dogs, and birds ; and as they saw that the goats and sheep were very different from the two former, they absurdly inferred that they must belong to the latter class, in which they knew there was a great variety of species. Though the commodore bestowed on his new friend what he supposed would be the most acceptable present, yet he seemed somewhat disappointed. The captain wa"? afterwards informed that he eagerly wished to procure a dog, Oi" which kind of animals thid island was destitute, though the natives knew that the race existed in other islands of the Pacific Ocean. Captain Gierke had received a similar present, with the same view, froni another man, who was equally disappointed in his expectations. The islanders whom they had seen in those canoes were gen- erally of the middle stature, and not unlike the Mangeeans. Tiieir hair either flowed loosely over their shoulders, or was tied on the cro>vn of the head ; and though in some it was frizzled, yet that, as well as the straight sort, was long. Some of the young men were handsome. Like the inhabitants of Mangeea, thev wore girdles of glazed cloth, or fine matting, the ends of which were brought between their thighs. Their ears were bored, and they wore about their necks, by way of ornament, a sort of broad grass, stained with red, and strung with berries of the nightshade. Many of them were curiously marked or tatooed from the middle downwards, particularly upon their legs, which made them appear as if they wore boots. Their beards were long, and they had a kind of sandals on their feet. They were frank and cheerful in their deportment, and very friencQy and good-natured. Lieutenant Gore returned from his excursion in the afternoon, and informed Captain Cook that lie had examined the west-side of the island, without being able to find a place where the ships could ride in safety, or a boat could land, the shore being bounded by a steep, coral rock, agcmst which a continual sun broke with extraordinary violence, But as the inhabitants seemed extremely friendly, and as desirous of their landing as they themselves were, Mr. Gore was of opinion that they might be prevailed upon to bring off to the boats, beyond the surf, such articles as they were most in need of. As they had little or no wind, the delay of a day or two was of small consideration ; and therefore the commodore resolved to try the experiment the next morning. They observed soon after day-break, some canoes coming towards the ships ; one of which directed its course towards the Rttsolution. There were in it some cocoa- nuts and plantains, and a hog, for which the natives demanded a dog, refusing every other thing they offered by way of exchange. Though one of the gentlemen on-board had a dog and a bitch, G2 124 cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. which were great nuisances in the ship, and which mi^ht have gerved to propagate a race of so useful an animal in this island, yet hetould not be prevailed upon to part with them. However, to gratify these people, Omai gave them a favourite dog he had brought from Great Britain ; with which acquisition they seemed highfy pleased. The same morning, which was the 3rd of April, Captain Cook detached Mr. Gore with three boats, to make trial of the ex- periment which that officer had proposed.^ Two of the natives, who had been on-board, accompanied him ; and Omai served as an interpreter. The ships being a full league from the island when the boat put off, and the wind being inconsiderable, it was twelve o'clock before they could work up to it. They then perceived the three boats Just without Uie surf, and an amazing number of the islanders on the shore abreast of them. Con- cluding from this that Lieutenant Gore, and others of our people, had landed. Captain Cook was^ impatient to know the event. With a view of observing their motions, and being ready to afford them such assistance as they might occasionally require, the commodore kept as near the shore as was con- sistent with prudence. He was convinced, however, that the reef was a very effectual barrier between them and their friends who had landed, and put them completely out of the reach of their protection. But the natives, in all probability, were not so sensible of this circumstance as they were. Some of them, now and then, brought a few cocoa-nuts to the ships, and exchanged them for whatever was offered them. These occasional visits diminished the captain's solicitude about our people who had landed j for, though they could procure no intelligence from their visitors, yet their venturing on-board seemed to imply, that their countrymen on-shore had made no improper use of the confidence reposed in them. At length, towards the even- ings they had the satisfaction of seeing the boats return. When their people got on board, they found that Mr. Gore, Mr. Ander- son, Mr. Bumey, and Omai were the only persons who had landed. The occurrences of the day were now fully reported to the commodore by Mr. Gore. Mr. Anderson's account of their transactions, which was venr circumstantial, and included some observations on the island and its inhabitants, was to the following purport : — " They rowed towards a sandy beach, where a great number of the natives had assembled, and came to an anchor at the distance of a hundred yards from the reef. Several of the islanders swam off, bringing cocoa-nuts with them ; and Omai gave them to understand that their people were landing. Soon after two canoes came off; and to inspire the natives with a great confi- dence, Mr. Gore and his companions resolved to go unarmed, and to run the hazard of being treated well or HI. ** Our conductors/ says Mr. Anderson, ^ watching attentively sh mi^ht have in this iskuid, Jm. However^ ^ dog he had n they seemed paptain Cook ial of the ex- f the natives, Omai served om the island erable, it was They then an amazing them. Con- hers of our to know the f and ^ being occasionally as was con- er, that the their friends each of their yere not so f them^ now I exchanged sional visits le who had fence from I to imply, oper use of Is the even- rn. When VIr. Ander. ^ who had reported to mt of their aded some as to the number of te distance ' islanders grave them after two reat confi- unarmed, ttentivefy Ill 1 ■l! cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. 125 w^ i the motions of the surf, landed Mr. Burney and myself, who were in the first canoe, safely upon the reef. An islander took hold of each of us, obviously with an intention to support us in walking over the rugged rock, to the beach, where several of the others met us, holding the green boughs of a species of mimosa in their hands, and saluted us by joining their noses to ours. Mr. Gore and Omai were landed from the second canoe. ** A great crowd flocked with eager curiosity to look at us, and would have prevented our proceeding, had not some, who seemed to have authority, dealt blows, with little ,distinctioii^ amongst them to keep them o£f. We were then led up an avenue of cocoa-palms ; and soon come to a number of meq, arranged in two rows, and armed with clubs, which they hold on their shoulders much in the same manner as we rest a mu»> ke^. After walking a little way amongst these, we found a person who seemed a chief, sitting on the ground cross-legged, cooling himself with a sort of triangular fan., made from a leaf of the cocoa-palm, with a polished handle of black wood, fixed to one comer. In his ears were large branches of beautiful, red feathers, which pointed forward. But he had no other mark or ornament, to distinguish him from the rest of his people ; though they all obeyed him with the greatest alacrity. He eitfe^r naturally had, or at this time put on, a serious, but not severe countenance j and we were desired to salute lum as he sat^ by some people, who seemed of consequence. " We proceeded still amongst tfie men armed with clubs, JHid came to a second chief, who sat fanning himself, and ornamented as the first. He was remarkable for his size, and uncommon corpulence, though to appearance not above thirty. In the same manner we were conducted to a third chief, who seemed older than the two former, and though not so fat as the second, was of a large size. He also was sitting, and adorned with red feathers ; and after saluting him as wq had done the aAers, he desired us both to sit down, which we were very wilhng to do, being pretty well fatigued with walking up, and with the excessive heat we felt, amongst the vast crowd that surrounded us. " In a few minutes the people were ordered to separate ; and we saw at the distance of thirty yards, about twenty young women, ornamented as the chiefs, with red feathers, engaged in a dance, which they performed to a slow and serious air, sung by them all. We got up and went fonvard to see them ; they continued their dance, without paying the least attention to us. 1 hey seemed to be directed by a man who served as a prompter, and mentioned each motion they were to make. But they never changed the spot, as we do in'dancing, and though their feet were not at rest, this exercise consisted more in moving their hngers very nimbly, at the same time holding their hands in a prone position near their face, and now and then alio clapping I VM*I MO W" lt& COOK*S THIRD VOYAGE, 1776 — 1780. i '"ia 3*: m " oj.i ^} ^!i tiiem together. Their motions and song were performed in such exact concert, that it should seem they had been taught with great care ; and probably they were selected for this cere- mony, as few of those whom we saw in the crowd equalled them in beauty. In general they were rather stout than slender, with black hair flowing in ringlets down the neck, and of an olive complexion. Their features were rather fuller than what we allow to perfect beauties, and much alike ; but their eyes were of a deep black, and each countenance expressed a degree of complacency and modesty, peculiar to the sex in every part of the world ; but, perhaps, more conspicuous here, where nature presented us with her productions in the fullest perfection, un- biassed in sentiment by custom, or unrestrained in manner by aft. Their shape and limbs were elegantly formed. For, as their dress consisted only of a piece of glazed cloth, fastened about tlie waist, and scarcely reaching so low as the knees, in many we had an opportunity of observing every part. This dance was not finished, when we heard a noise, as if some horses had been gallopping towards us ; and, on looking aside, we saw the people armed with clubs, who had been desired, as we suppose, to entertain us with the sight of their manner of fighting. This tliey now did, one party pursuing another who fled. " As we supposed the ceremony of being introduced to the chiefs was now at an end, we began to look about for Mr. Gore and Omai; and, though the crowd would hardly suffer us to move, we at length found them coming up, as much incommoded by the people as we had been, and introduced in the same manner to the three chiefs. Each of these expected a present ; and Mr. Gore gave them such things as he had brought with him from the ship, for that purpose. After this, making use of Omai as his interpreter, he informed the chieis with what inten- tion we had come on-shore ; but was given to understand that he must wait till next day, and then he should have what was wanted. **^ They now seemed to take some pains to separate us from each other ; and every one of us had his respective ciicle to surround and gaze at him. For my part I was, at one time, about an hour apart from my friends ; and when I told the chief, with whom I sat, that I wanted to speak with Omai, he peremp- torily refused my request. At the same time, I found the people began to steal several trifling things which I had in my pocket ; and when I complained to the chief of this treatment, he justified it. From these circumstances, I now entertained apprehensions that they had a design to detain us amongst them. They did not, indeed, seem to be of a disposition so savage as to make us anxious for the safety of our persons ; hnt it was, nevertheless, vexing to think, we had hazarded bein^ stained by their curiosity. In this situation I asked for something to cook's third voyage, 1776—1780. 137 irfonned in been taught )r this cere- ualled them ender, with of an olive n what we r eyes were degree of '^ery part of liere nature fection, un- manner by I. For, as h, fastened the knees, part. This ail if some cing aside, desired, as manner of other who jed to the 1 Mr. Gore iffer us to ommoded the same L present ; ight with iig use of lat inten- and that what was us from ;ii'cle to le time, le chief", )eremp- fund the in my jatment, jrtained it them. mge as it was, iained ^ing to eat; and they readily brought me some cocoa-nuts, bread-fruit, and a sort of sour pudding, which was presented by a woman. And on my complaining much of the heat occasioned by the crowd, the chief himself condescended to fan me, and gave me a small piece of cloth, which he had round his waist. " Mr. Burney happening to come to the place where 1 was, I mentioned my suspicions to him ; and, to put it to the test, whether they were well founded, we attempted to get to the beach. But we were stopt, when about half way, by some men, who told us, that we must go back to the place we had left. On coming up we found Oraai entertaining the same apprehensions. But he had, as he fancied, an additional reason for being afraid; for he had observed, that they had dug a hole in the ground for an oven, which they were now heating ; and he could assign no other reason for this, than that they meant to roast and eat us, as is practised by the natives of New Zealand. Nay, he went so far as to ask them the question ; at which they were greatly surprised, asking, in return, whether that was a custom with us ? Mr. Burney and I were rather angry that they should be thus suspected by him ; there having as ya been no appearances, in their conduct towards us, of their being capable of such brutality. " In this manner we tiere detained the greatest part of th^ day, being sometimes together, and sometimes separated, biit always in a crowd; who, not satisfied with gazing at «% fre- quently desired us to uncoi-er parts of our skin — ^the sight of which commonly produced a general murmur of admiration. At the same time they did not omit these opportunities of rifling our pockets ; and at last one of them snatched a small bayonet from Mr. Gore, which hung in its sheath by his side. This was represented to the chief, who pretended to send some person in search of it. But, in all probability, he countenanced the theft ; for, soon after Omai had a dagger stolen from his side in the same manner, though he did not miss it immediately. " Whether they observed any signs of uneasiness in us, or that they voluntarily repeated their emblems of friendship when we expressed a desire to go, I cannot tell ; but, at this time, they brought some green boughs, and, sticlung their ends in th« ground, desired we should hold them as we sat. Upon my urging our business again, they gave us to understand, that we must stay and eat with them ; and a pig that we saw soon after lying near the oven, which they had prepared and heated, re- moved Omai's apprehensions of being put into it himself, and made us think it might be intended for our repast. The chief also promised to send some people to procure food for the cattle ; but it was not till late in the afternoon that we saw them return with a few plantain-trees, which they carried to our boats. " In tUe meantime, Mr. Burney and I attempted again to go to th« beach ; but, when we arrived, found ourselves watched by 1S8 cook's third vOyaoe, 1776 — 1780. \M people^ who seemed to have been planted there for that purpose : for^ when I tried to wade in upon the reef, one of them took hold of my clothes, and dragged me back. I picked up some small pieces of coral, which they required me to throw down again ; and, on my refusal, they made no scruple to take them forcibly from me. I had gathered some small plants ; but these also I could not be permitted to retain ; and they took a fan from Mr. Burney, which he had received as a present on coming a-shore. Omai said, we had done wrong in taking up anything^ for it was not the custom here to permit freedoms of that kind to strangers, till they had^ in some measure, naturalized them to the country, by entertaimng them with festivity for two or three days. ** Finding that the only method of procuring better treatment was to yield implicit obedience to their will, we went up again to 4:he place we had left ; and they now promised that we should have a canoe to carry us oif to our boats, after we had eaten of a repast which had been prepared for us. " Accordingly, the second chief before-mentioned, having seated himself upon a low, broad stool of blackish, hard woo^ tcderably polished, and directing the multitude to make a pretty large ring, made us sit down by him. A considerable number of cocoa-nuts were now brought, and shortly after, a long, green bafiket, with a sufficient quantity of baked plantains to have served a dozen persons. A piece of the young hog that had been dressed, was then set before each of us, of which we were desired to eat. Our appetites, however, had failed from the fatigue of the day ; and though we did eat a little to please them, it was witliout satisfaction to ourse^ da. ** It beingnow near sun-set, we told them it was time to go on-board. This they allowed ; and sent down to the beach the remainder of the victuals that had been dressed, to be carried with us to the ship. We found a canoe ready to put us off to our boats, which the natives did with the same caution as when we landed. They put us on-board the boats, with the cocoa-nuts, plantains, and other provisions, which they had brought ; and we rowed to the ships, very well pleased that we had at last got out of the hands of our troublesome masters." The restrained situation of these gentlemen gave them verv little opportunity of observing the country ; for they were sel- dom a hundred yards from the place where they had been intro- duced to the^ chiefs, and consequently were confined to the sur- rounding objects. The first thing that attracted their notice was the number of people, which must have been at least two thou- sand. Elxcept a few, 'those who had come on-board the ships were all of an inferior class ; for a great number of those that the officers met with on the shore, had a superior dignity of de- meanour, and their complexion was much whiter. In general, they had their hair, which was long and blacky tied on the crown that purpose: lem took hold p some small down again; them forcibly t these also I fan from Mr. niug a-shore. thing ^ for it that kind to I them to the two or three er treatment ent up again at we should had eaten of ned, having hard woo^, ake a pretty ble number long, green Ins to have >g that had ich we were d from the lease them, time to go ) beach the be carried it us oflf to m as when |ocoa-nuts, ight; and it last got lem very iwere sel- ]en intro- the sur- )tice was i^o thou> / cook's third voyage, J776— 1780. )39 le lose that ty of de- reneral, crown • i.'.!? of the head. Many of tlie young men were perfect models in shape, and of a dehcaie complexion. The old men were, many of them, corpulent ; and they, as well as the young, had a re- markable smoothness of skin. Their general dress consisted of a piece of cloth wrapped round the waist, but some had pieces of mats, most curiously variegated with blaok and white, formed into a kind of jacket without sleeves ; while others wore conical caps, made of the core of a cocoa-nut, inteiivoven with beads. In their ears, which were pierced, they hung pieces of tlie membraneous part of some plant, or stuck some odoriferous flower. The chiefs, and other persons of rank, had two littk balls, with a common base, made of bone, which they hui^ round their necks with a small cord. Red feathers are here con- sidered as a particular mark of distinction : for none but ih» chiefs, and the young women who danced assumed them. Some of the men were punctured all over the sides and back, and'som« of the women had the same ornament (if it deserves that name)^ on their legs. The elderly women had their hair cropped short, and many of them were cut all oyer the fore part of the body in oblique hues. The wife of a chief appeared vrith her child laid in a piece of red cloth, which had been presented to her husband ; she suckled the infant much after the same manner of our wo- men. Another chief introduced his daughter, who was youn^, beautiful, and modest. No personal deformities were observed in either sex, except a few individuals who had scars of broad ulcers remaining on the face and other parts. Many of the natives were armed with spears and clubs, the latter of which were generally about six feet long, made of hard, black wood, and neatly polished. The spears were formed of the same wood, simply pointed, and were in general twelve feet long ; but some were so short as to seem intended for darts. They preserved their canoes from the sun under the shade of various trees. Our officers saw eight or ten of them, all double ones, that is, two single ones fastened together by rafters laahed across. They were about four feet deep, and in length about- twenty feet, and the sides were rounded with a plank raised upon them. Two of these canoes were curiously stamed all over with black, in innumerable small figures, as triangles, squares, &c and were far superior to any thing of the kind Mr. Anderson had ever seen at any other island in the South Sea. The pad- dles were almost elliptical, and about four feet long. Most of the trees observed by Mr. Anderson were cocoa-pahns some sorts o\ hibiscus, a species oi euphorbia, and many of the same kind he had seen at Mangeea. Tlie latter are tall and slender, resembling a cypress, and are called by the natives etoa He also saw a species oi convolvulus, and some treack- raustard; besides which, there are doubtless other plants and Iruit trees which he had not an opportunity of seeing. The soil towards the sea, is nothing more Uian a bank of coral, generally G 3 130 cook's third voyage, 177C — 1780. deep and rugged, which, though it has probably been for many centuries exposed to the vyeather, has suffered no farther change than becoming black on its surfece. The reef, or rock, with which the shore is Hned, runs to different breadths into the sea, where it resembles a high steep wall. It is of a brownish colour, and nearly even with the surface of the water ; and though its texture is rather porous, it is capable of withstanding the washing of the surf, which constantly breaks upon it. Though the landing of the officers was the means of enriching the narrative of the voyage with the preceding particulars, yet the principal object in view was partly unattaiued; for they scarcely procured any thing worth mentioning from the island. It has already been mentioned, that Omai was sent upon this expedition, and, perhaps, his being Mr. Gore's interpreter, was not the only service he performed this day. He was asked by the natives a great malny questions concerning our people, our ships, our country, and the sort of arms we used; ancl, according to the account he gave to Captain Cook, his answers were not a little upon the marvellous. Our countrv, he told them, had ships as large as their island ; on-board which were instruments of war (describing the guns) of such dimensions, that several people might sit within them ; and that one of them was sufficient to crush the whole, island at one shot. This led them to ask what sort of guns were on-board Captain Cook's ships ? He said, that though they were but small in comparison with those he had described, yet, with such as they were, they could, with the greatest ease^, and at the distance the ships were from the shore, destroy tlie island, and kill every soul in it. They then in- quired bv what means this could be done ? and Omai explained it as well as he could. He happened luckily to have a few cart- ridges in his pocket. These he produced ; the balls, and the gunpowder that was to set them in motion, were submitted to inspection : and to supply the defects of his description, an appeal was m»de to the senses of the spectators. The multitude had been formed, as before-mentioned, into a circle. This fur- nished Omai with a convenient stage for his exhibition. In the centre of this, the small quantity of gunpowder collected from his cartridges was properly disposed upon the ground, and set on fire by a piece of burning wood from the oven. The sudden blast, and loud report, the mingled flame and smoke that in- stantly succeeded, filled the whole assembly with astonishment. They no longer doubted the tremendous power of our weapons, and gave full credit to all that Omai had said. If it hadj^t been for the terrible idea they conceived of the ship's guns, from the specimen of their mode of operation, it was thought they would have detained the officers all night. For Omai assured them, that if he and his companions did not return onboard the same day, they might expect that the captain would fire upon the island. And as the ships stood in nearer the land < ^ cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. 131 1 for many her change rock, with ito the sea, lish colour, though its [le wajshing f enriching iculars, yet ; for they le island, t upon this preter, was j9 asked by leople, our , according were not a , had ships ents of war ;ral people nfficient to o ask what He said, lOse he had with the le shore, then in- explained few cart- and the )mitted to ption, an multitude This fur- In the ;ted from and set e sudden that in- ishment. Jveapons, id of the pation, it rht. For kt return In would Ihe land #• »;i*: 1 in tlie evening than they had done anytime before, of which they were observed to take great notice, they probably thought that this formidable attack was meditating ; and, therefore, they suf- fered their guests to depart; in the expectation, however, of seeing them a;;ain on-shore next morning. But, Captain Cook was too sensible of the risk they had already run, to tliink of re- peating the experiment. This island, though never before visited b^ Europeans, had actually other strangers residing in it. Omai, when he li»ndf d with Mr. Gore, found amongst the crowd, three of his own countrymen, natives of the Society Islands. At the distance of about 200 leagues from those islands, an immense, unknown ocean intervemng, with such wretched sea-boats as their inhabi- tants are known to make use of, and tit only for a passage where sight of land is scarcely ever lost, such a meeting, ut such a place, so accidentally visited by Captain Cook's people, mav well be looked upon as one of those unexpected situations with which the writers of feigned adventures love to surprise their readers, and which, when they really happen in common life, deserve to be recorded for their singularity. It may be imagined with what surprise and satisfaction Omai and his countrymen engaged in conversation ; and their storv is very affecting. Twenty persons, of both sexes, had embarked on-board a canoe at Otaheite, to cross over to the neighbouring island Ulietea. A violent contrary wind arising, they could neither reach the latter, nor get back to the former. Their in- tended passage being a very short one, their stock of provisions was scanty, and soon exhausted. The hardships they suffered, while driven by the storm, they knew not whither, are not to be conceived. They passed many days without any thing to eat or drink. Worn out by famine and fatigue, their numbers gradually diminished. Four men only survived when the canoe overset ; and then the perdition of these seemed inevitable. However, they kept hanging by its side, during some of the last days, till providence brought them in sight of the people of this island, who immediately sent out canoes and brought them a-shore. Of the four, thus saved, one was since dead. The other three who lived to give this account of their almost miraculous transplanta- tion, spoke highly of the kind treatment they here met with ; and they were so well satisfied with their present situation, that they refused the offer made to them, at Omai's request, of giv- ing them a passage to their native islands. The similarity of manners and language had more than naturalized them to this spot ; and the fresh connexions they had here formed, and which it would have been painful to have broken off after such a length of time, sufficiently account for this refusal. They had arrived upon the island at least twelve years before. ** The landing," says Captain Cook, " of our gentlemen on this island, cannot but be considered as a very fortunate circum- Ia'V; if, ill V3a cook's TMIUD VOYAGE, 1776 — 1780. rttance. It has proved the means of thus bringing to our know* ledge a fact, not only very curious, but very instructive. The application of the above narrative is obvious. It will serve to explain, better than a thousand conjectures of speculative rea- soners, how the detached parts of the earth, and, in particular, how the islands of the South Sea, may have been first peopled; especiallv tjiose that lie remote from any inhabited ccntment, or from each other .'^ ^ According to Omai's account of what he learned in conversa- tion with his three countrymen, the manners of those islanders, their method of treating strangers, and their general habits of life, are much like those tliat prevail at Otaheite, and its neigh- bouring isles. Their religious ceremonies and opinions are also nearly the same. From every circumstance, indeed, it is indubi* table, that the natives of Wateeoo sprang originally from the same stock which has spread itself so wonderfully all over the immense extent of the South Sea. One would suppose, how- ever, that they put in their claim to a more illustrious extraction, for Omai said, that they dignified their island with the appellar tion of fFenooa no te Eatooa, that is, a land of gods ; esteeming themselves a sort of divinities, and possessed with the spirit of Eatooa. This wild, enthusiastic notion Omai seemed much to approve of ; observing, that there were instances of its being en- tertained at Otaheite, but that it was universally prevalent among the inhabitants of Mataia, or Osnaburg island. Omai, ua<' the two New Zealanders perfectly understood their language, which was pretty much the same as at the other islands. Having failed in procuring any supplies of consequence in Wateeoo, and the easterly swell having carried the ships to some distance from the island on the night of the 3rd of April, early next morning. Captain Cook steered for the island which he had discovered three days before. About ten o'clock next morning they got up to it, and Mr. Gore was immediately dispatched with two boats to look out a landing-place, and procure provender for the cattle. Though a reef surrounded the land here as at Wateeoo, and a considera- ble surf broke against the rocks, the boats no sooner reached the west-side of the island, but they ventured in, and Mr. Goie and his attendants arrived safe on-shore. Captain Cook seeing they had so far succeeded, sent a small boat to know if further assistance was required. She waited to take in a lading of the produce of the island, and did not return till three in the after- Being cleared, she was sent again for another cargo ; noon. the Jolly-boat was also dispatched upon the same business, with orders for Mr. Gore to return with the boats before night, which orders were punctually observed. The supply obtained here was about two hundred cocoa-nuts for the crew, and for the cattle some grass, and a quantity of the leaves and branches of young cocoa-trees, and the pandanus. I I. ■ J' ) our know* stive. The irill serve to ulative rea- particular^ It peopled; .ntinent, or n conversa* ) islanders, 1 habits of i its neighr ins are tuao t is indubi- [y fiom the u\ over the pose, how- extraction, he appelliBr esteeming le spirit of d much to i beinj? en- ent aiiinng p ai, bail the ige, which ' cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. ia» iquenc^ in )s to soioe pril, early ch he had cargo ; ^ss, with ft, which 3oa-nute itity of indanus. i Tliis island lies about three or four leagues from Wateeoo, ^ the inhabitants of which call it Otakootaia. It is in the latitude ol* 19 deg. 61 min. south, and the longitude of '20\ deg. 37 min. east, and is supposed not to exceed three miles in circuit. This island is entirely destitute of water. Cocoa-palms were the only common trees lound there, of which there were several clusters, and great quantities of the wharra or pandanug. There were also the cuUophyllum, auriana, with a few other shrubs ; also a sort of Oind-wced, treacie-wustard. a species of spurge, and the morinda citri/blia, the fruit of which is sometimes eaten by the natives of Otaheite. Omai, who landed with the party, dressed some of it for their dinner, but they thought it very indifferent. A beautiful cuckoo, of a chesnut brown, variegated with black, was the only bird seen amongst the trees ; but, upon the shore, were a small sort of curlew, blue and white herons, some egg- birds, and great numbers of noddies. One of the company caught a lizard running up a tree ; though small, it had a most forbidding aspect. Many of another sort were also seen. Infi- nite numbers of a kind of moth, elegantly specked with blacky white, and red, frequented the bushes towards the sea. Some o^er sorts of moths and pretty butterflies were seen At tliis time there were no fixed inhabitants upon the island, but they discovered a few empty huts, which convinced theni of its being, at least occasionally, visited. Monuments, consisting of several large stones, were also erected under the shade of some trees : there were also some smaller ones, with which several places were enclosed, where they supposed their dead had been buried. They found in one place a great many cockle-shells, of a parti- cular sort, finely grooved, and larger than the first ; from which it was conjectured, that the island had been visited by persons who sometimes fed on shell-fish. Mr. Gore left some uailr, and a hatchet in one of the huts, for the use of those who might visit the island in future. The boats being hoisted in, they made sail again to the north- wai'd, revolving to try their fortune at liervey's Island, which vras discovered by Captain Cook in 177 j, during his last voyage. They ^ot sight of it about day-break in the morning of the 6th, at the distance of about three leagues ; and approachmg it about eight o'clock, observed several cr^noes commg from the shoce towards the ships. They vere rather surprised at this circum- stance, as no traces or signs of inhabitants were seen when the island was first discovered : tliis, indeed, might be owing to a brisk wind that then blew^ and prevented their canoes ventur- ing out. Advancing still towards the island, six or seven double t^anoes immediately came near the ship, with from three to six men iu each of them. At the distance of about a stone's throw from tKo ship they stopped, and it was with difficulty that Omai prevailed on them to come along-side ; but they could not be induced to 134 cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. ill 1 nflii f 11 1 CI i 3 trust themselves on-board. Indeed, their disoruL rly behaviour did no^ indicate a disposition to trust, or to treat them well. They attempted to steal some oars out of the Discovery's boat, and struck a man for endeavouring to prevent them. They also cut away a net containing meat, which hung over the stern of that ship, and at first would not restore it, though they afterwards permitted us to purchase it from them. Those who were about the Resolution behaved equally disorderly and daring ; for, with a sort of hooks made of a long stick, they openly endeavoured to rob them of several things, and actually got a frock belonging to one of the people. It appeared tiiat they liad a knowledge of bartoring, ibr they exchanged some fish for some small nails, of whiv^h they were extravagantly fond, and called them goore. Pieces of paper, or any other trifling article that was thrown to them, they caught with the greatest avidity ; and if what was thrown fell into the sea, they immediately plunged in to swim after it. Though the distance between Hervey's Island and Wateeoo is not very great, the inhabitants differ greatly from each other, both in person and disposition. The colour of the natives of Hervey's Island is of a deeper cast, and several of them J ad a fierce, savage aspect, like the natives of New Zealand, ftiough some were fairer. Their hair was long and Uack, either hanging loose about their shoulders, or tied in a bunch on the top of the head. Some few, indeed, had it cropped short, and, in two or tJiree of them, it was of a red or brownish colour. Their cloth- ing was a narrow piece of mat, bound several times round the lower part of the body, and passing between the thighs. We saw a fine cap of red feathers lying in one of their canoes, and some amongst them were ornamented with the shell of a pearl- oyster, polished, and hung about the neck. The mode of ornament, so prevalent among the natives of this ocean, of puncturing or tatooing their bodies, not one of them had adopted ; but, though they were singular in this respect, their being of the same common race is not to be doubted. Their language more resembled the dialect of Otaheite, than that of Mangeea or Wateeoo. Like the natives of those islands, they inquired from whence our sailors came, whither bound, the ship's name, the name of the chief, and the number of men on-board ? Such questions as were proposed to them, they very readily an- swered. They atated, among other ^hings, that they had before seen two large ships, like ours, bur had not spoken to them as tliey passed. These were doubtless the Resolution and Adven- ture. They said, that the n^me of their island was Terougge- mou Atooa ; and likewise, tliat they were subject to Teerpva- tooeah, king of Watteoo. Their food, they said, consisted of cocoa-nuts, fish, and turtle ; being destibite oi dogs and ho^s, and the island not producing bread-fruit or plantains. Their canoes (nearly thirty of which ■\ ■'# cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. 135 r behaviour them well, (^ery's boat. They also le stern of afterwards were about : ; for, with ideavoured : belonging owledge of all nails, of lem goore. \ thrown to ' what was in to swim I Wateeoo jach other, natives of liem I ad a id, ftiough er hanging top of the 1, in two or leir cloth- ound the jhs. We loes, and a pearl- '^es of this of them ect, their Their n that of ds, they he ship's -board ? dily an- before them as Adven- h-ougge- . eerpva- turtle ; Educing which u appeared at one time in sight), were tolerably large, and well- btiilt, and bear some resemblance to those of Wateeoo. The ships drew near to the north-west part of the island about one o'clock. This seemed to be the only part where they could expect to find anchorage or a landing-place for their boats. Captain Cook immediately dispatched Lieutenant King, with two armed boats, to sound and reconnoitre the coast. The boats were no sooner hoisted out, than the new visitors suspended their traffic, pushing for shore as fast as possible, and came no more near the ships. The boats returned at three o'clock, and Mr. King informed Captain Cook, that he could find no anchorage for the ships ; and that the boats could advance no farther than the outer edge of tlie reef, which was almost a quarter of a mile from the dry land. That a number of the natives came upon the reef, armed with clubs and long pikes, meaning, as he supposed, to oppose his landing ; though, at the same time, they threw cocoa-nuts to our people, and requested them to come on-shore ; and, not- withstanding this seemingly friendly treatment, the women were very active in bringing down a fresh supply of darts and spears. Captain Cook considered, that as he could not bring the ships to an anchor, the attempt to procure grass here, would be attended with delay and danger. Being thus disappointed in all the islands aftei leaving New Zealand, and having, from a variety of circumstances, being unavoidably retarded in his pro- gress, it was in vain to think of doing any thing this year in the high latitudes of the northern hemisphere, from which they were then so far distant, though it was then the season for operations there. Thus situated, it was necessary to pursue such measures as appeared best calculated to preserve their cattle, and save the stores and provisions of the ships ; the better to enable them to prosecute their northern discoveries, which could not now commence till a vear later than was intended. If they could fortunately have procured a supply of water and grass, at any of the islands they had lately visited. Captain Cook intended to have stood back to the south, till he had got a westerly wind. But, without such a supply, the certain conse- quence of doing this would have been the loss of the cattle before it was possible to reach Otaheite, without gaining a single point of advantage respecting the grand object of the voyage. The captain, therefore, determined to bear away for the Friendly Islands, where he knew he could be well supplied with every thing he wanted ; and, it being necessary to run night and day, he ordered Captain Clerke to keep a league a-head of the Keso- hition; because, his ship could best cIpw oiF the land, which ♦hey might possibly fall in with in their passage. Tlie ships steered west by south, with a line breeze. Captain Cook proposed to proceed first to Middleburgh, or Eooa, think- mg they might, perhaps, have provision enough for their cattle. J 136 cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. to la^t till they should arrive at that island. But, the next day^ about noon those faint breezes, that had so long retarded them, again returned ; and they found it necessary to get into the latitude of Palmerston's and Savage Islands, which Captain Cook discovered in 1774 ; that, in case of necessity, recourse might be had to them. In order to save tlie water. Captain Cook ordered the still to be kept at work a whole day ; during which time th^ procured about fifteen gallons of fresh water. These light breezes continued till Thursday the 10th, when the wind blew some hours fresh from the north, and north north- west. In the afternoon there was some heavy rain, attended with thunder squalls. They collected as much rain-water as filled five puncheons. When these squalls had blown over, the wind was very unsettled, both in strength, and in position, till the next day at noon, when it fixed at north-west, and north north- west, and blew a fresh breeze. Thus persecuted with a wind in their teeth, they had the additional mortification to find those very winds here, which they had reason to expect farther south. At day-break, however, on the 13th, they perceived Palmerston's Island, bearing west by south, at the distance of about five leagues ; but did not get up with it till the next morning at eight. Captain Cook then dis- patched three boats from the Resolution, and one from the Discovery, with a proper officer in each, to search for a con- venient landing-place : they being now under an absolute neces- sity of procuring here some provender for their cattle, or they must certainly have lost them. What is called Palmerston's Island, consists of a group of small islets, about nine or ten in number, connected togetlier by a reef of coral rocks, and lying in a circular direction. The boats first exp-nined the most south-easterly islet; and, not succeeding there, ran down to the second, where they imme- diately landed. Captain Cook then bore down with his ship, till Brbreast of the place, where they kept standing off and on, there being no bottom to be found to anchor upon. This, however, was of no material consequence, as there were no human beings upon the islands except the party who had landed frcHU the boats. At one o'clock one of the boats returned laden with scurvy-^rass and young cocoa-trees, which was, at this time, a most excellent repast for the animals on-board. A message was also brought frcun Mr. Gore, who commanded the party upon this expedition, acquainting us that the island abounded with such produce, and also with the wharra-tree and cocoa-nuts. In consequence of this information. Captain Cook resolved to get a sufficient supply of these articles before he quitted this station, and accordingly went on-shore in a small boat, accompanied by the captain of the Discovery. The island does not exceed a mile in circum- ferenoe, and is not elevated above three feet beyond the level of r {•1 irt B next day3 irded them^ et into the Eiptain Cook se might be ook ordered which time 10th, when north north- tended with er as filled T, the wind ion, till the lOrth nprth- ley had the , which they lowever, on ing west by not get up )k then dis- e from the for a con- alute neces- tle, or they group of Id togetlier ion. The and, not ley imme- his ship) iff and on, »n. This, were no [ad landed ^rvy-^rass 1 excellent brought )edition, fuce, and luence of it supply lordingly ^ptain of circum- level of I cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. 137 the sea. It is composed almost entirely of a coral sand, with a small mixture of blackish mould, which appeared to be prodw^ed from rotten vegetables. This poor soil, is however, covered with the same kinds of shrubs and bushes, as had been seen at Otakoo-taia or Wenooa- ette, though not in so ^reat a variety. They perceived a great number of man-of-wav birds, tropic43irds, and two sorts of boobies, which were then laying their eggs, and so exceedingly tame as to permit them to take them off their nests, which consist only of a few sticks loosely put together. These tropk birds differ essentially from the common sort, being of a beau- tiful white, sUghtly tmged with red, and having two long tail featiiers of a deepish crimson. Their people killed a consider- able number of each sort ; which, though not the most delicate kind of food, were highly acceptable to them, who had -been a long time confined to a salt diet. They saw plenty of red crabs creeping about among the trees, and caught several fish, which, when the sea retreated, had been left in holes upon the reef. At one part of the reef, which bounds the lake within, almost even with the surface, there was a large bed of coral, which afforded a most enchanting prospect. Its base, which was fixed to the shore, extended so far that it could not be seen, so that it appeared to be suspended in the water* The sea was then unruffled, and the refulgence of the sun exposed the various sorts of coral in the most beautiful order; some parts luxu- riantly branching in the water, others appearing in a vast variety of figures, and the whole greatly heightened by spangles of tiie nchest colours, glowing from a number of large clams, inter- ^ersed in every part. Even this delightful scene wj^s greatly improved by the multitude of fishes that gently glided along, seemingly with the most perfect security. Their colours were the most beautiful that could be imagined ; blue, yellow, black, red, &c. far exceeding any thing that could be produced by art. The richness of this sub-marine grotto was greatly increased by their various forms : and the whole could not possibly be sur- veyed without a pleasing transport, accompanied at the same time with regret, that a work so astonishingly elegant should be concealed in a place so seldom explored by the human eye. Except a piece of a canoe that was found upon the beach, no traces were discoverable of inhabitants, ha ving ever been there ; and, probably, that may have been drifted from some other island. The sailors were surprised, however, at perceiving some small brown rats on this little island; a circumstance, perhaps, not easily accounted for, unless we admit the pos- sibility of their being imported in the canoe of which they liad seen the vamains. The boats being laden. Captain Cook returned on-board, leaving Mr. Gore and his party to pass the night on-shore, to be ready for business early the next morning. r m |i|K ' 1 flEw" i ill ilRF m irjiiil I i WW-, anmn 1^ I 133 cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. The 15th, like the preceding day, was spent in collecting sub- sistence for the cattle, consisting principally of tender branches of the wharra-tree, palm-cabbage, and young cocoa-nut trees. A sufficient supply of these having been procured by sun-set, Captain Cook ordered all the people on-board ; but, having very little wind he determined to employ the next day, by endea- vouring to get some cocoa-nuts for his people, from the next island to the leeward : for this purpose they kept standing off and on all night ; and about nine o'clock in the morning, went to the west-side of the islands, and landed from the bohts with little difficulty. The people immediately ernployed them- selves in gathering cocoa-nuts, which were found in the greatest .plenty ; but, it wrts a tedious operation to convey them to the boats, being obliged to carry them half a mile over the reef, up to the middle in water. Omai, who accompanied them, pre- sently caught, with a scoop-net, as many fish as supplied tlie party on-shore for dinner, besides sending a quantity to each ship. Man-of-war, and tropic-birds, were found here in abun- dance, so that the crew fared most sumptuously. In tliese excursions to the uninhabited islands, Omai was of the greatest service ; he caught the fish, and dressed them, as well as the birds tliey killed, after the fashion of his countr}- , with a dex- terity and cheerfulness that did him honour. Before night the boats made two trips, and were each time heai'ily laden ; with the last Captain Cook returned on-board, leaving his third lieutenant Mr. Williamson, with a party, to prepare another lading for die boats against the next morning. Accordingly Captain Cook dispatched them about seven o'clock, and by noon they returned laden. No delay was made in sending them back for another cargo, with orders for all to be on-board by sun-set. These orders being punctually obeyed, they hoisted in their boats, and sailed to the westward with a light air from the north. The islet the ships last came from is somewhat larger than the other, and almost covered with cocoa-palms. The other productions were the same as at the first islet. On the beach were found two pieces of board, one of which was rudely carved, and an elliptical paddle. These were, perhaps, a part of the same canoe, the remains of which h>J been seen on the other beach, the two islets being within half a mile of each other. There were not so many crabs here as at the last place, but they found some scorpions and other insects, and a much greater number of fish upon the reefs. Among the rest were some beautiful, large, spotted eels , which would raise themselves out of the water, and endeavour to bite their pursuers. There were also snappers, parrot-fish, and a brown, spotted rock-fish, not larger than a haddock, so tame that it would remain fixed and gaze at them. If they had been really in want, a sufficient supply might easily have been had, for thousands of the clams .rli lectin g sub- er branches a-nut trees, by sun-set, laving very by endea- n the next itanding off •ning, went the boats jyed them- he greatest hem to the ;he reef^ up them, pre- ipplied tlie ity to each e in abun- In tliese le greatest i^ell as the vith a dex- i night the n; with the ilieutenant lading for Captain loon they back for sun-set. in their from the •ger than ^he other |he beach carved, Irt of the [he other \h other, place, a much !st were Imselves There >ck-iish, fixed ifficient clams cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. 13i> stuck upon the reef, many of which weighed two or three pounds. There were also some other sorts of shell-fish ; and when the tide flowed, several sharks came witli it; some of which were killed by the people ; but, their presence rendered it, at that time, unsafe to walk in the water. . Mr. Williamson and his party who were left on-shore, were much pestered in the night with musquitoes. Some of them sliot tMV'o curlews, and saw some plovers upon the shore ; one or two cuckoos, like those at Wenooa-ette, were also seen. The islets comprehended under the name of Palmerston's Island, may be said to be the simimits of a reef of coral rock, covered only with a thin coat of sand ; though clothed with trees and plants, like the low grounds of that ocean. Having left Palmerston's Island, they steered west in order to proceed to Annamooka. They had variable winds, with Bqualls, some thunder, and much rain. The showers being very copious, they saved a considerable quantity of water ; and, as they could procure a greater supply in one hour by the rain than by distillation in a month, they laid the still aside, as being attended with more trouble than advantage. The heat, which had continued in the extreme for about a month, became i.iuch more disagreeable in this close, rainy weather, and it was apprehended it would soon be noxious. It is, however, remarkable, that there was not then a single person sick on board either of the ships. They passed Savage Island, which Captain Cook discovered in 1774, m the night between the 24th and 25th; and on tlie IWth, about ten o'clock in the morning, saw the islands to the eastward of Annamooka, bearing north by west about five leagues distant. They steered to the south, and then hauled up for Annamooka. At the approach of night, the weather being squally, with rain, they anchored in fifteen fathoms' water. They had scarcely anchored, when two canoes paddled towards them, and without hesitation came along-side. They bartered with them for nails, some cocoa-nuts, sugar-cane, bread-fruit, and plantains, which they had brought with them. 1 owards evening they had a short visit from another canoe ; so eq^er were they to get possession of a few of the most trifling articles, that they considered the trouble and danger of paddling Irom Koman((o, at that time five miles distant, a& a matter of no moment. Next morning, at four o'clock. Lieutenant King was dispatched by Laptam Cook with two boats, in order to procure refreshments, ^" A ^^A^^ ^^^ signal to weigh at five to proceed to Annamooka. At day-break they had a visit from six or seven canoes, which brought with them some fowls, two pigs, several large wood- pigeons, small rails, some violet-coloured coots, besides fruits apd roots of various kinds, for which they gave them in ex- change beads, hatchets, nails, &c. They had various other- I*"*: im 140 COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE, 1776 — 1780. luiicles of commerce, but Captain Cook had given particular orders, that the^ should purchase no curiosities till tlie ships were supjphed with provisions, except by his permission. Mr. King's party returned about noon, having been treated with great civility at Komango. The cmef of the island. Too. boulangee, and another Taipa, came on-board.with Mr. King. They presented a hog to the captain, and promised him more next day. Mr. King procured seven hogs, some fowls, and a quantity of fruits and roots, with some grass for the animals. They reported, that, from the observations they could naake, the inhabitants were not numerous ; their huts were very indif. ferent, and almost joined to one another. The boats being a-board, they stood for Annamooka ; and, having little wind, they intended to go between Annamooka- ette, (Lattle Annamooka), and the breakers at the south-east; but, on drawing near, met with very irregular soundings, which obliged them} to relinquish the design, and go to the south' ward. This carried them to leeward, and they found it neces- swy to spend the night under sail. It was dark and rainy, and they had the wind from every direction. The next morning at day-light, they were farther off than they had been the pre- ceding evening, and the wind was now right in their teeth. They continued to ply to very little purpose the whole day, and in the evening anchored in thirty-nine fathoms' water ; the west point of Annamooka bearing east-north-east four miles distant. Tooboulangee and Taipa, agreeable to their promise, brought c^some hogs for Captain Cook: and they obtained others, by bartering from the different canoes that followed them, and a large quantity of fruit. It is remarkable, that those who visited them from the islands on that day, would hardly part with any of their commodities to any one but Captain Cook. At four the next morning. Captain Cook ordered a boat to be hoisted out^ and the master to sound the south-west side of Annamooka. When he returned, he reported that he had sounded between Great and Little Annamooka, where he found ten or twelve fathoms' depth of water ; that the [place was very well sheltered from winds ; but, that no fresh water was to be had but at a considerable cUstance inland, and that even there it was neither plentiful nor good. For this very sufficient reason, Captain Cook resolved to anchor on the north side of the island, where, in his last voyage, he had found a convenient place for watering and landing. . , Though not above a league distant, they did not reach it till about five o'clock in the afternoon, being retarded by the quanti^v of canoes that crowded round the ships, laden with abundant supplies of the produce of their island. Several of these canoes, which were double, had a large sail, and carried between torty and fifty men each. Several women too appeared in the canoes, excited perhaps^ by curiosity to visit them j though, they v^ere i z ven particular till tlie ships nission. ; been treated le island^ Too. ith Mr. King. 9ed him mure . ! fowls, and a r the animals, r could make, ^ere very indif. lamooka; and, • 1 Annamooka- , ;he south-east; mdings, which » to the south' found it neces* and rainy, and 3xt morning at been the pre- in their teeth, vhole day, and rater ; the west miles distant. mise, brought ed others, by them, and a who visited )art with any a boat to be j-west side of that he had Wre he found ice was very |er was to be jven there it lient reason, )f the island, ;nt place for I reach it till |the quantify abundant lese canoes, (tween forty Ithe canoes, they V/ere f «l!|!. cook's third VOTAOE, 1776 — 1780. 141 ita earnest in bartering as the men, and used the paddle with equal skill and dexterity. They came to an anchor in eighteen fathoms' water, the island extending from east to south-west, about three quarters of a mile distant. Thus Captain Cook resumed the station which he had occupied when he visited Annamo(^ three years before ; and, probably where Tasman, who first discovered the island, anchored in 1643. The next day, during the preparations for watering. Captain Cook went arshore in the forenoon, accompanied by Captain Qerke, and others, to fix on a place for setting up the ob- servatories ; the natives having readily granted permussion. } They shewed every mark of civihty, and accommodated them with a boat-house, which answered the purpose of a tent, Toobou, the chief of the island, conducted Captain Cook and Omai to his house, situated on a pleasant spot, in the centre of his plantation. It was surrounded with a grass-plot, which he said, was for the purpose of cleaning their feet, before they entered his habitation. Such an attention to cleanliness, they had never observed before wherever they had visited in this ocean, though they afterwards found it to be very common at the Friendly Islands. No carpet in an Elnglish drawing-room, could be kept neater, than the mats which covered the floor of Toobou's house. While on-shore, they bartered for some hogs and fruits ; and, when arrived on-board, the ships were crowded with the natives. As very few^ of them came empty-handed, they were speedily supplied with every refreshment. In the afternoon. Captain Cook landed again, with a party of marines ; and such of the cattle as were in a weakly state, weise sent on-shore with him. Having settled every thing to his satisfaction, he returned to the ship in the evening, leaving Mr. King in command upon the island. Taipa was now become a trusty friend ; and, in order to be near their party, had a house carried a quarter of a mile, on men's shoulders, and placed by the side of the shed, which our party occupied. The various operations on the shore began the next day. Some were busied in making hay, others filling the water-casks, and a third party in cutting wood. On the same day, Messrs. King and Bayly began to observe equal altitudes of the sun, in order to get the rate of the time-keepers. In the evening Taipa harangued the natives for some time ; but they could only guess at the subject, and supposed he was instructing them how to treat our people, and advising them to bring the produce of the island to market. His eloquence had the desired effect, and occasioned them to receive a plentiful supply af provisions the next dav. On the 4th of May me Discovery lost her small bower anchor, the cable being cut in two by the rocks. On the 6th, a chief, whose name was Feenou, visited the ships, from Tongataboo ; Taipa introduced him as king of all the Friendly Isles. They were 149 cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. m m now informed, that a canoe had been immediately dispatched to Tongataboo with the news so soon as they arrived ; and tliis occasioned his coming to Annamooka. The officer on-shore also informed them that all the natives were ordered out to meet him immediately upon his arrival, who saluted him bowing their heads as low as his feet, the soles of which they touched with the palm of each hand, and afterwards with the back part. He had also seven or eight fine, handsome women with him, which wew said to be his wives. They could not suppose him to be any thing less than a kinr;, since he was received with such extraor- dinary marks of respect. — Captain Cook received a present from him of two fish, which he sent on-board by one of his attendants ; and, in : the afternoon, the captain went to pay a visit to this great man. So soon as he landed, Feenou came up to him. He appeared to be about thirty years of age, and was remarkably tafl and thin ; his features were more of the Euro- pean cast than any they had seen in the Friendly Isles. As Captain Cook perceived he was not the man whom he remem- bered to have seen in the character of the king, after the first salutation he questions him on that point ; when Taipa, with great eagerness replied that he was the sovereign of no less than one hundred and fifty-three islands. In a short time^ the grand visitor accompanied them on-board, attended by five or six servants. Captain Cook made them a few acceptable pre- sents, and he entertained them in such a manner as he thought would be most agreeable. The captain accompanied them a-shore in his own boat towards evening, when Feenou ordered three hogs to be conveyed into the boat as a return for th« presents he had received. At this time they were told of an accident, which may tend to convey some idea of the unbounded authority which the chiefs exercise over the inferior rank of people. While Feenou was on-board the Resolution, all the natives were ordered by an inferior chief, to retire from the post our sailors occupied. Some of them, however, having ventured to return, he beat them most unmercifully with a large stick. One of them, in particular, received so violent a blow on one side of the face, that the blood gushed from his mouth and nostrils, and, after lying motionless for some tinie^ he was removed from the place in convulsions. The person who gave the blow, on being told that he certainly had killed the man, only laughed at the circumstance ; and, indeed, it was very evident that he did not grieve for what had happened. They had afterwards the satisfaction of hearing^ that the poor sufferer was out of danger. The bottom where the Discovery lay being veir rocky and uneven. Captain Clerke determined to shift her farther to the westward. The next day (May the 7th) he gave orders to weigh the stream anchor, and heave short upon the best bower; but the united force of the whole ship's company was not abl« ( I I. tely dispatched ■ived; and this r on-shore also ut to meet him bowing their uched with the part. He had m, which wew him to be any I such extraor. ved a present by one of his vent to pay a enoii came up f age, and was ! of the Euro- ily Isles. As )m he remem- after the first n Taipa, with gn of no less lort time, the ed by five or ceptable pre- as he thought panied them enou ordered Bturn for th« told of an unboimded rior rank of ition, all the [ re from the yer, having uUy with a so violent ed from his some time, 'he person had killed eed, it was happened, t the poor [rocky and ther to th» .orders to 1st bower; not abl« cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. 143 to purchase it, the cable having got foul of a rock ; they waited till slack water, when the ships would tend to the ebb tide and probably clear it, but at eleven the cable parted. The recovery of this cable caused an infinite deal of trouble, as it had got into a hole between the rocks, and could only be seen when the water was perfectly smooth ; but, at last, after a number of un- successful trials, they were lucky enough to weigh it. Tnis day and the next also, Feenou dined with Captain Cook, attended by Taipa, Toobou, and some other chiefs. — None but Taipa, however, was permitted to sit at table, or even to eat in his pre- sence. Tliis etiquette greatly pleased Captaiu Cook, for before Feenou arrived he had commonly more visitors than he desired ; as his table was frequently oyerflowed with people of both sexes. For the women of the Friendly Isles have the pri- vilege of eating with the men, which is not the case at Otaheite. Our voyagers had frequent occasions to observe the dexterity which these people possess at pilfering: the very chiefs at times practised a little. Having, before the arrival of Feenou, had a large junk axe stolen out of the ship, which they could im- pute to none but the natives, the captain complained to him, and required he would use his authority to get it restored : he immediately gave orders for that purpose, and before dinner was finished it was brought on-board: such was the explicit obedience paid to his commands. On the 9th of May, one of them was detected carrying out of the ship the bolt belonging to the spurn-yarn-winch, which he had carefully concealed un- der his clothes. For this oflfence Captain Cook sentenced him to receive a dozen lashes, and to be confined till he paid a hog for his liberty. — Though, after this circumstance, they were troubled with no more thieves of rank, their servants, or slaves, were constantly employed in this dirty business ; and they re- ceived a flogging with as much seeming indifference as if it had been upon the main-mast. When anjr of them were caught in the act of thieving, instead of interceding in their behalf, their masters would often advise our men to kill them. This being a pun- ishment our men were not fond of inflicting, they usually escaped without any kind of punishment ; they were alike uisensible of the shame and torture of corporal chastisement. At length, however. Captain Clerke contrived a mode of treatment which he supposed had some effect. Immediately upon detection he ordered their heads to be completely shaved ; and thus pointed them out as objects of ridicule to their countrymen, and put our people upon their guard to deprive them of future opportunities for a repetition of their thefts. Feenou was so fond of the company of our men, that he dined on-board every day, though he did not always partake of their lare. On the 10th, his servants brought him a mess, which had been dressed on-shore, consisting offish, soup, and yams ; cocoa- nut liquor had been used instead of water, in which the fish had I 'f'ii m IM ll [^ 144 cook's TinRD VOYAGE, 1776 — 1780. been boiled or stewed, (perhaps in a wooden vessel with hot stone) and it was carried on-board on a plaintain leaf. ^ Captain Cook tasted of the mess, and was so well pleased with it that he afterwards ordered some fish to be dressed in the same way ; hut, though his cook succeeded tolerably well, it was much inferior to the dish he attempted to imitate. Having, in a great measure, exhausted the island of almost every article of food, on Sunday the 11th of May, the men removed from the shore tlie observatories, horses, and other things that they had landed, intending to sail as soon as the Discovery should have found her anchor. Feenou hearing that the captain meant to proceed to Tongataboo, earnestly entreated him to alter his plan ; expressing as much aversion to it, as if, by diverting him from it, he wished to promote some particular interest of his own. He warmly recommended a group of islands called Hapaee, lying to the north-east ; where he assured them they could be easily and plentifully supplied with every refreshment; and even offering to accompany them thither in i>erson. In consequence of this advice Hapaee was made choice of: and as it had not been visited by any European ships, the surveying it became an object to Captain Cook. On Tuesday, the 18th, Captain Clerke's anchor was happily recovered ; and on the morning of the 14th they got under sail and left Annamooka. Though this island is somewhat higher than the other small islets that surround it, yet it is lower than Mangeea and Wateeoo, and even those are but of a moderate height. The shore, where our ships lay, consists of a steep, rugged, coral rock, about nine or ten feet high, except two sandy beaches, which are defended from the sea by a reef of the same sort of rock. In the centre of the island there is a salt water lake about a mile and a half in breadth, round which the ground rises with a gradual ascent, and they could not trace its having any com- munication with the sea. On the rising part of the island, and especially towards the sea, the soil is either of a blackish, loose mould, or a reddish clay ; but there is not a stream of fresh water to be found in any part of the island. The land is here well cultivated, except in a few places ; and though some parts appear to lie waste, they are only left to recover the strength exhausted by constant culture ; for they often saw the natives at work upon these spots, in order to plant them again. Yams and plantains form their principal plan- tations ; many of which are very extensive, and enclosed with fences of reed about six feet high. Fences of less compass were often seen within these, surrounding the houses of the principal people. The bread-fruit and coccoa-nut trees are interspersed without any regular order, but principally near the habitations of the natives. Tlie other parts of the island, esije- oially towards the sea, and round the lake, are covered with i ki M -1780. en vessel with hot *m leaf. Captain mthe aameway '^ih it was mucli island of almost f May, the men orses, and other ' as soon as the noil hearing that rnestly entreated sion to it, as if some particular led a group of ;iiere he assured iied with every y them thither 'aee was made ; lairopean ships, 'k. I 'r was happily | got under sail j *e other small andWateeoo, J shore, where ^^ rock, about es, which ate t of rock. In about a mile rises with a 'ng anyoora- «e island, and ackish, loose Jam of fresh places: and only left Jo 'e ; for they •der to plant icipal plan- closed with 88 compaas •uses of the trees aw lly near the land, espe- s^ered with COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE, 1770-1780. luxunant trep«i anA u v **• n,»ny „, - -d, tati-tmif 1 ""^'J »-/ H 0i.r,i^* '^**'*'^' composes the shore ^ ^''^ '^'"^ coral cou»d To'^Z; wrSl^^r-s i, waiting up the which are very numerous on he salt ,«If^^'"^ ^^ ^^^^^eon! pool where they procured ?he wa?er Th' ^.^"" ^ «« ^'^ excursions, that the inhabitants frpmi;! j ^^ ^""nd, in the^ to repair to the tradingXe wS/ "^T •'^^^ ^^^^^^ suspicion, that strangers wou?H%oT"^ entertaining the le^f perty that belonged to the^ pI^^^^^^' «*• destroy any nr^* be supposed, that most of The nSZlt' ^^^^»"^«tance^ ?t ffi ?n the beach, and that here wo .M T'^ ««n»etimes collected f^orming an accurate comStil of iU "° ^^^^ difficulty i? continual resort of visitor? T„«? S! *^®,'^ "umber ; but fll? then entererf (1.! T'"*"* "!. ^e Resolntion tWi „h„ . ^"''"' "^A placed in the sea Tk ^PPea^nce of a b^,,??^^ "»<=<»- tributed greaL to |,^''L '"*''« 'leather thev n^^?' /"^en conreyanTdea of A '*^''^'' .*« '"ene: andX J ^* "O"- tree upon I* 14;} cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. km I in the afternoon, about four o'clock, they steered to the north, leaving Toofoa and Kao on their larboard. They intended to have anchored for the night, but it came upon them before the\ could find a place in less than fifty fathoms' water ; and, they rather chose to spend the night under sail, than to come to in such a depth. In the afternoon, the ships had been within two feagues of Toofoa, and the smoke of it was observed several times in the day. There is a volcano. ui^on it, of which the Friendly Islanders entertain superstitious notions, and call it Kollo/eea^ saying, it is an Otooa, or divinity. Our men were imormed that it sometimes throws up very large stones, and the crater is com- pared to the size of a small islet, which has not ceased smokini; in the memory of the inhabitants ; nor have they any traditbii that it ever did. They sometimes saw the smoke from the centre of the island, even at Annamooka, the distance of at least ten leagues, and were told that Toofoa was but thinh inhabited, but that the water upon it was excellent. At day-break, on the 15th, the ships were not far f^om Kao, which is a large rock of a conic figure ; and steered to tlip passage between Footooha and Hafaiva, with a gentle breeaeaf south-east. About ten o'clock, Feenou came on-board, and continued all day. He brought with him a quantity of fnut and two hogs ; and, in the course of the day, several canoes came to barter quantities of the former article, which was very accept- able, as the stock began to be low. At noon, the latitude mus 19 deg. 49 min. 45 sec. south, and they had made seven miles of longitude from Annamooka. After having passed Footooha, tliey met with a reef of rocks, and there being but little wind. it was attended with some difficulty to keep clear of tiieni Having passed this reef, they hauled up foi Neeneva, a smali low isle in the direction of east north-east from Footoolia, ii hopes of finding an anchorage, but were again disappointed; for, notwithstanding they had land in eveiy direction, the seawa; unfathomable. In the course of this night flames, issuing from the volcano upon Toofoa, were distinctly seen. At day-break, on the 16th, Captain Cook steered with o gentle breeze at south-east, for Hapaee, which was now in s\^U: and perceived it to be Iqw land, from the trees only api^earin^ above the water. At nine o'clock, saw it plainly, fomupg three islands ; nearly equal in size ; and, soon after, a fourth np peared to the southward of these, as lar^e as any of the otiiera. Each of the islands apjjeared to be of a similar height and appearance, and ubout six or seven miles in length. The most northern of them is called Haanno, the next Foa, the third Lefooga, and the fourth Hoolaiva ; but they are all four included under the general name of Hapaee By sunset, they got up with the northermnost of these isles, where they experienced the same distress ior want of anchorage. ). 3d to the north, hey intended to em before they iter ; and, they I to oorae to in two teagues of •al times in the endly Islanders ifeeuj saying, it iformed that it crater is corn- eased smokiriK y any tradition iioke from the distance of at was but thiiil\ it. I; far from Kao, steered to tb fentle breeze at on-board, and tity of fniit and canoes came to very accept- e latitude \ms seven miles of |sed Footooha, ut little wind, lear of tlieni leva, a smaii Footoolia, ii ldisappoint)ed: \n, tlie sea wa? |, issuing ftoiii ?rEd witli ii Inow in si^^ht : lily apj^enrini; formirg thret la fourth ap >f the otiier- height and The most »a, the third our inchided these isles, If anchorage. cook's third voyage, 1776—1780. 147 i' 35 they I'A the two preceding evening,s ; having another night to spend under sail, with land and breakers in every direction. Feenou, who had been on-board all day, went forward to Hapaee in tlie evening, and took Oraai with him in the canoe. He was not unmindful of this disagreeable situation, and kept up a good fire the whole of the night, by way of a land-mark. At the return of day-light, on the 17th, being then close in with Foa, perceived it was joined to Haanno, by a reef runnii^ from one island to the other, even with the surface of ihe sea. Captain Cook dispatched a Ijoat to look for anchorage ; and a proper place was found i breast of a reef which joins Lefooga to Foa, having twenty-four fathoms' depth of water. In this station, the northern point of Hapaee bore north 16 deg. east. They were not above three quarters of a mile from the shore ; and, as they lay before a creek in the reef, it vras convenient landing at all times. As soon as they had anchored, they we»e surrounded by a multitude ot canoes', and the ships were pre- sently filled with the natives. They brought with them hogs, fowls, fruit, and roots, which they exchanged for cloth, knives, beads, nails, and hatchets. Feenou and Omai having conie on-board, earlj in the morning, in order to introduce Captain Cook to the people of the island, he soon accompanied them on- shore for that purpose. The chief conducted the captain to a hut, situated close to tlie sea-beach, which was brought thither but a few minutes before for his reception. In this, Feenou, Omai, and Captain Cook, were seated. The other chiefs, and the multitude, appeared fronting them on the outside ; and they also seated themselves. Captain Cook being asked how long he intended to stay, answered five days. Taipa was, therefore, ordered to sit by him, and declare this to the people. He then harangued them in words nearly to the following purport, as they afterwards were informed by Omai. He exhorted both old and young to look upon Captain Cook as a friend, who meant to continue with them a few days ; and that, during his stay among them, they would not steal any thing from him, or offend him in any other manner. He informed them, thai it was expected they should brin^ hogs, fowls, fruit, &c. to the ships ; for which they would receive in exchange such articles as he enumerated. Soon after Taipa had delivered his address to the assembly, Feenov. left them ; on which, Captain Cook was informed by laipaj that it was necessary he should make a present to Earoupa, the chief of the island ; the captain, not being un- prepared for this, gave him such articles as far exceedecl l.^is expectation. This liberality, created siniilur demands from tvm chiefs of other isles who were present, and even from Taipa himself. Soon after he had made the last of these presents, Feenou returned, and expressed his displeasure vdth laij/a, for siitl'iiring the captain to be so lavish in his favours. But this H3 148 cook's third voyage, 1776 — ?780. was, doubtless I ". ■ • I i^ 1 Si w^' B.I Sy||l I^B^ H^lB P^hJ' ^n''' J In^H mH-^* Wm [■ IB iali^i BM |^B<' ii'l i t^Bv jK^i M fm p-' n i^B ^ f|L|\<' il^'w I^H * ■B^'i'iii ^£ m ■1 i , a finesse, as he certainly acted in concert with the others. Feenou now resumed his seat, ordering Earoupa to sit by him, and harangue the people as Taipa had done, which he did nearly to the same purpose. These ceremonies being over, the chief, at the captain's request, conducted him to three stagnant pools of what he called freshwater; in one of which, the water was indeed tolerable, and the situation convenient for filling the casks. On his return to his former station, he found a baked hog and some yams, smoking hot, ready to be conveyed on- board for his dinner. He invited Feenou, and his friends, to partake of the repast, and they embarked for the ship, though none but himself sat down at table. Dinner being over, the captain conducted them on-shore ; and, before he returned, received as a present from the chief, a fine large turtle, and a quantity of yams. They had a plentiful supply of provisions, for, in the course of the day, they got, by bartering with the natives, about twenty small hogs, together with a large quantity of fruit ahd roots. On Sunday, the 18th, early in the morning, Feenou and Omai, who now slept on-shore with the chief, came on-board, to request Captain Cook's presence upon the island. He accom- panied them, and upon landing, was conducted to the place where he had been seated the preceding day, and where he beheld a large concourse of people already assembled. Though he imagined, that something extraordinary was in agitation, yet he could not conjecture what, nor could Omai give him anj information. Soon after he was seated, about a hundred of the natives appeared, and advanced, laden ' with yams, plantains, bread- fruit, cocoa-nuts, and sugar-canes : their burdens were depo- sited on the left: a number oif others arrived soon after, bearing the same kind of articles, wliich were collected into tw^o piles on the right side. To these were fastened two pigs, and half a dozen fowls ; and to those upon the left, six pigs and two turtl««. Earoupa seated himself before the articles on the left side, and another chief before (hose on the right ; they being, it was supposed, the two chiefs \^ho had procured them by order of Feenou, who was as imi)licitly obeyed here, as he had been at Annamooka, and who har prohiably laid this tax upon the chiefs of Hapaee for the presenr occaMon. When this mumticent collection of provisions was placed in order, and advantageously disposed, the bearers of it joined the multitude, who formed a circle round the whole ; immediately after, a number of men, aimed with clubs, entered this circle, or area, where, they paraded about for a few minutes, and then one half of them retired to one side, and the other half to the other »ide, seating themselves tefore the spectators. Presently after, they successively entertained them vith single combats ; fi concert with pa to sit by which he did ing over, the iree stagnant zh, the water for filling the and a baked 'onveyed on- is friends^ to ship, though ng over, the he returned, turtle, and a f provisions, ing with the arge quantity Feenou and on-board, to He accom- to the place fid where he d. Though tation, yet ive him any the natives siins, bread- were depo- 'ter, bearing o tvi^o piles \, and half s and two on the left y being, it by order ad been at the chiefs placed in [joined the |i mediately circle, or and then liilf to the I Presently combats; nil.' I. Vt n 1 -• m\^ m if.' A n 4'.i 1'^ l« !-<:> f<'') WK,' .\i SJ '' |y • S P j' ' % M V / '( cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. U9 one champion from one side challenging those of the other side,, partl^^ by words, but more by expressive gestures, to send one of their party to oppose him. The challenge was, in general, accepted; the two combatants, placed themselves in proper altitudes, and the engagement began, which continued till one of them yielded, or till their weapons were broken; at the conclusion of each combat, the victor squatted himself down before the chief, then immediately rose up and retired. Some old men, who seemed to preside as judges, gave their plaudits in a very few words ; and the multitude, especially those on the side of the conqueror, celebrated the j;lory he had acquired, in two or three loud huzzas. This entertainment, was sometimcM suspended for a slrart space, and the intervals of time were filled up with wrestling, and boxing matches. The first were pi ibrmed in the manner practised at Otaheite, and the second differed very little from the English method. A couple of stout wenches next stepped forth, and, without ceremony, began boxing with as much dexterity as the men. This contest, however, was but of short duration, for, in the space of half a minute, one of them gave it up, and the victorious heroine, was applauded by the spectators, in tho same manner as the successful combatants of the other sex. Though our men expressed some disapprobation at this part of the entertainment, it did not hinder two other females irom entering the lists ; who seemed to be spirited girls, and, if two old wonien had not interposed to part them, would pro- bably have given each other a good drubbing. At least tnre€ thousand spectators were present, when these combats were exhibited^ and every thing was conducted with the most perfect good humour on all sides ; though some of the champions, of both sexes, received blows which they must have felt the effect of for some time after. T' 3 diversions being finished, the chief informed Captain Cook, that the provisions on their right hand, were a present to Omai, and that those on the left, (making about two-thirds of the whole quantity), were intended for him, and that he might suit his own convenience in taking them on-board. Four boats were loaded with the munificence of Feenou, whose favours had far exceeJed those ,that Captain Cook had ever received from the sovereigns of any of the islands, which he had visited in the Pacific Ocean, he, therefore, embraced the first opportunity of convincing Feenou, that he wa^- not insensible of his liberality, by bestowing upon him such com- modities, as he suj)posed, were most valuable in his estimation, reenou was so highly pleased with the return that was made him, that he left the cajitain still indebted to him, by sending him two large hogs, some yams, and a considerable quantity of cloth. Feenou having expressed a desire to see the marines perform ■■j,j ' Mm t ,#5 ¥ ^ii I 4 J"' II. I 51: K |. 'V 1 M' ii (^ Hi^fl ^ 111 ;'; W ; 150 cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. their exercise. Captain Cook ordered them all ashore on the morning of the 20th of May. After they had gone througli various evolutions, and fired several vollies, which seemed to give pleasure to the numerous s{)ectators, the chief in his turn, entertained them with an exhibition, which was performed with an exactness and dexterity, far surpassing what they had seen of our military' manoeuvres. It was a kind of dance, performed by men, in which one hundred and five persons were engaged; each having an instrument in his hands resembling a paddle, two feet and a half long, with a thin blade, and a small nandle. AVith these instruments various flourishes were made, each of which was accompanied with a different movement, or a different attitude of the body. At first, the dancers ranged themselves in three lines, and so changed their stations by different evolutions, that those who had been in the rear came into the front. At one part of the performance, they extended themselves in one line; afterwards they formed themselves into a semi-circle ; and then into ♦wo square columns ; during the last movement, one of them camo forward, and performed an antic dance before Captain Cook, with which the entertainment ended. The music that accompanied the dances was produced by two drums, or rather hollow logs of wood, from which they forced some varied notes, by beating on them with two sticks. The dancers, however, did not appear to be much assisted or directed by these soimds ; but, by a chorus of vocal music, in which all the performers joined ; their song was rather melodious, and their corresponding motions were so skilfully executed, tliat the whole body of dancers appeared as one regular machine. Such a performance would have been applauded even on an European theatre ; and it far exceeded any attempt that our men had made to entertain them; insomuch, that they seemed to plume them- selves upon their superiority over them ; they esteemed none of our musical instruments, except the drum, and they even thought that inferior to their own. They held the Frencn horns in the highest contempt, and would not pay the smallest atten- tion to them, either here or at any other of the islands. To give them a more favourable opinion of the amusements, and superior attainments of the English, Captain Cook ordered some fire-works to be prepared; and, after it was dark, exhi- iMted them in the presence of Feenou, and a vast number of people ; they were highly entertained with the performance in getieral ; but tlie water and sky-rockets in particular, astonished them beyond all conception, and they now admitted that the scale was turned in our favour. This, however, served only as an additional stimulus to urge them to proceed to fresh exertions of their singular dexterity. As soon as the fire-works were ended, a succession of dancer, which Feenou had prepared for the entertainment of our men began. A band of music, or chorus consisting of eighteen men, % cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. (here on the fone througli ii seemed to ' in his turn, rformed with y had seen of aerformed by ■re engaged; ig a paddle, small nandle. lade, each of , or a diiferent hemselves in at evolutions, ont. At one I in one line ; le; and then t, one of them jfore Captain duced by two ti they forced sticks. The id or directed , in which all lodious, and ed, tliat the hine. Such n European n had made plume them- emed none they even rench horns allest atten- msemente, Uk ordered dark, exhi- 1 number of )rmance in 1 astonished ; the scale ^^ IS to urge dexterity. )f dancoo, our men Keen men, I- seated themselves before them in the centre of a circle, Ajmit il by the ;numerous spectators. About four or live of the per- Ibrmers, iiad each a piece of large bamboo, from three to six itet in length, each played on by one man, who held it almost vertically; the upper end of which was open, but the other closed by some of the joints. They kept constantly strikinj; the ground, though slowly, with the close end, and tlius pro- duct a variety of notes, according to tlie difl'erent lengths of the instruments, but all were of the bass or hollow kind , which was counteracted by a person who struck nimbly a piece of i\w same substance, split, and lying upon the ground ; furnishing a tone as acute, as the others were grave and solemn. The whole of tlie band (including those who performed upon the bamboos), sunj a slow, soft air, which so finely tempered the harsher notes of the instruments, that the most perfect judge of the modulation of sweet sounds, could not avoid confessing the vast power, and pleasing effect, of this simple harmony. The concert having continued about a quarter of an hour, twenty women entered tlie circle ; most of whom had upon their heads garlands of the crimson flowers of the China rose, or others ; and many of them had ornamented their persons with leaves of trees, cut ^vith a great deal of nicety about the edges. They made a circle round the chorus, turning their faces towards it, and began by singing a soft air, to which responses were made by the chorus in the same tone ; and tliese were repeated alternately ; all this time, the women accompanied their song, with several very graceful motions of their hands towards their face,^ and in other directions at the same time, making constantly a step forward, and then back again, with one foot, while the other was fixed. They then turned their faces to the assembly, sung some time, and retreated slowly, in a body, to that part of the circle which was opposite the hut, where the princijial spectators sat. After this, one of them advanced from each side, meeting and passing each other in the front, and continuing their progress round, till they came to the rest; then two advanced from each side, two of whom also passed each other, and returned as the former; but, the other two remained, and to these came one, from each side, by intenals, till the whole number had again formed a circle about the chorus. Their manner of dancing was now changed to a quicker mea- sure, in which they made a kind of half turn by leaping, and clapped their hands, and snapped their fingers, repeating some words in conjunction with the chorus. ijToward tlie end, as t]ie quickness of the music increased, tiieir gestures and attitudes were varied with wonderful vigour and dexterity ; and some of their motions, perliaps, would, with us, be reckoned rather indecent ; though, this part of the performance, most probably, was not meant to convey any wanton ideas, but merely to dis- play the astonishing variety of their movements. I l< ' ' ti i' .;i t I Mi 1 gj* T th- """''""""' ^°^'«"'. 1776-1780 dance,, S & thr±„''t"^' '"""^eded a varetv nf ,. than m the snri!! ? ' *""^ *** no instanrp w>.« " ^ "^^^ dis- the ruder exJi?;'^^" transitions they so X^ f^ '^'"^'^^le, ■ Thia dance being ended aft '"'"''' "'' "■' J^ho repea't^d "eve,^ it "'*' «'»«'"'ed "''it'cf T'' '^"''"^ -ocelder ^""-"^ *-- '•-^"iikXr^ortl.fvTl ^he next who f^vhiuu j .i "»ey had second and Siir3 • !?*^ "^^^^ his fists I^Ia *u ^^^ ^^^n^n a ^ncecf thefr nir? '"^^^^^ed him /when L ^ '^"^^ '"^'^"er Soon after «^^ ^^^ ^ ^O't of double mo!'^' "^ *^^» "Pon in a ffentle ^ ,/^^"*3^-ft>ur each round f^^ J ^^^^^ ^^^med a headS hana:^'l^.'«"^^ -ocompanTed X'th^' f"^ ^^^"^^ gradual] V ho^" ^ "^^^ a^so bcffan w H? «T "® lotions of the The Iwo^IaT dir ^'*^"«P««i^ion?of ti^^^J^^^^^^ with twu last dances were uni^^^. u ^^^ circles. «*aJtL?„:eT/^''«-'>'«««^ebetwee!r ^"^ approved by all the ^ cook's third VOYAOfi, 1776—1780. 153 ety of other in some oi* I prodigious loiilder, with sight, would . llieir dis- remarkable, made, from ist airs, and dances were t by the sea, nsidc of the irval, twehe ►ws, fronting f prompter, were made and danced ►m they had vomen, who ced himself. ie women a treated the came to the ing this, a locked him ied away. so extra- e manner le women and they dillerence ccept that [hen upon ing some exhibited, ^here was [brmed a )d joined ms of the lits which sed with all the Islanders, Islanders, Itheir being spectators. They were perfectly in time, and some of their gestures were so expressive that it might justly be said, they spoke the language that accompanied them. 1 hough the con- course of people was pretty large, their number \vas much inferior to that assembled in the forenoon, when the marines performed their exercise ; at that time many of our gentlemen supposed there might be present five thousand persons, or upwards: but Captain Cook supposes that to be rather an exaggerated account. The next day, which was the 21st of May, Captain Cook made an excursion into the island of Lefooga, on foot, which he found to be, in some respects, superior to Annamooka, the plantations being not only more numerous, but also more ex- tensive. Many parts of the countr)r near the sea, are still waste ; owing, perhaps, to the sandiness of the soil, but in the internal parts of the island the soil is better ; and the marks of consider- able population, and of an improved state of cultivation, are very conspicuous. Many of the plantations are enclosed in such a manner, that the fences running parallel to each other, form spacious public roads, and large spots, covered with the paper-mulberry tree, were observed ; and the plantations, in general, were abundantly stocked with such plants and fruit-trees as the island produces. To these the commodore made some addition, by sowing the seeds of melons, pumpkins, Indian corn, &c. At one place was a house, about four times as large as the ordinary ones, with an extensive area of grass before it, to which the people probably resort on certain public occasions. Near the landing-place, they observed a mount two or three f&et high, on which stood four or five little huts, wherein the bodies of some persons of distinction had been interred. The island is but seven miles in length ; and its breadth, in some places, is not above three miles. The east-side has a reef projecting con- siderabl)^, against which the sea breaks with great violence ; it is a continuation of this reef that joins Lefooga to Foa, which is but half a mile distant ; and at low water, the natives can walk upon this reef from one island to the other ; the shore is either a sandy beach, or a coral rock. When the captain returned from his excursion and went on- board, he found a large sailing canoe fastened to the stern of the Resolution; in this canoe was Latooliboula, or, Kohagee- too Fallangou, whom the commodore had seen, duri/ig his last voyage, at Tongataboo, and who was then supposed by him to be the king of that island. He could not be prevailed upon to come on-board, but continued sitting in his canoe with an air of uncommon gravity; the islanders called him Areekee, whicli sijgnifies king ; a title which our men had not heard any of them give to Feenou, however extensive his authority over them had appeared to be. Latooliboula remained under flie stern till the evening, and then departed; Feenou was on-board the Resolu- H5 i 154 i I I m A cook's third voyage, 1776—1780. tion at tliat time ; but neither of tliese cliiefs took the least notice oi the other. Jhe next day, some of the natives stealing a tar-pauliu and other thinors, Cajitain Cook applied to Feenou, desiring him to exert his authority, for the purpose of getting them restored; but this application was of no effect. On the 23rd, as they were ir)reparing to leave the island, Feenou and his prime muiister Taipa came along-side in a canoe, and informed them that they were going to Vavaoo, an island situated, as tliey said, about two days' sailing to the northward of Hapaee. Tliey assured us, that the object of their voyage was to procure for us an additional supply of hogs, besides some red-feathered caps for Omai to carry with him to Otaheite, and desired them not to sail till their return, which would be in four or five days ; after which Feenou would accompany them to Tongataboo. Captain Cook consented to wait the return of this chief, who immedi- ately set out for Vavaoo ; on the 24th, a report was industriously spread about by some of the islanders, that a ship resembling ours had arrived at Annamooka since they left it, and was now at anchor there. It was also reported, that Toobou, the chief (,<" tiiat island, was hastening thither to receive these new visitors. After inquiry, however, it appeared, this report was totally void of foundation. It is difficult to conjecture what purpose the invention of this tale could answer ; unless we suppose it was contrived with a view of getting our men removed from one island to the other. On Sunday, the 25th, Captain Cook went into a house where a woman was dressing the eyes of a child who seemed blind. The instruments used by this female oculist were two slender, wooden probes, with which she brushed the eyes so as to make them bleed. In the same house he found another woman shaving a child's head with a shark's tooth, stuck into the end of a stick ; she first wetted the hair with a rag dipped in water, and then making use of her instrument, took off the hair as close as if a razor had been employed. Captain Cook soon after tried upon himself one of these remarkable instru- ments, which he found to be an excellent substitute ; the natives of these islands, however, have a different method of shaving their beards, which operation they perform with two shells ; one of which they place under a part of the beard, and with the other applied above, they scrape off that part; in this manner they can shav«|^ery close, though the process is rather tedious. There are among^hem some men who seem to profess this trade, for it was as common for the sailors to go ashore to have their beards scraped off after the mode of Hapaee, as it was for their chiefs to come on-board to be shaved by our barbers. Captain Cook finding little or nothing of v^hat the island pro- duced was now brought to the ships, determined to change his station, and to wait Feenou's return in some other anchoring I 4 I COOlv's THIRD VOYAGE, 171 G— 1780. in he leaat notice : a tar-pauliii noil, desiring getting them •n the 23rd, as and his prime nfonned them , as tliey said, apaee. They ) procure for feathered caps d them not to 'e days ; after boo. Captain who immedi- industriously p resembh'ijg and was now I, the chief iS new visitors. s totally void purpose the ippose it was led from one ;s Jand pro- lange his ichoring .•I ' i^ace, where he might still meet with refreshments. He accord- mgly, on tiie 26th, made sail to the southward along the reef of the Lslaiul, and having passed several shoals, hauled into a bay that lies between the north-end of Hoolaiva and the south of Lefooga, and there anchored. He had no sooner cast anchor than IMr. Bligh, master of the Resolution, was sent to sound the bay where they were now stationed ; and Captain Cook, accom- Cnied by Lieutenant Gore, landed on (he southern part of siboga, to look for fresh water, and examine the country. On the west-side of the island, they observed an artificial mount of considerable antiquity, about forty feet high, and measuring about fifty feet in the diameter of its summit. At the bottom .of this mount was a stone fourteen feet high, two and a half- thick, aiid four broad, hewn out of coral rock ; and they were informed by the islanders, that not more than half its length was seen above ground. They called it Tangata Areekee ;* and said it had been set up, and the mount raised, in memory of one of their kings. On the approach of night, the captain and Mr. Gore returned on-board, and Mr. Bligh came ])ack from sound- ing tlie bay, in which he found from fourteen to twenty fathoms' water, with a bottom principally of sand. Lefooga and Hoolaiva are separated from each other by a reel' of coral rocks, dry at low water ; some of our gentlemen, who landed in the last mentioned island, found not the smallest mark of cultivation, or habitation, ujion it, except a single hut, ui which a man, employed to catch fish and turtle, resided. It is remarkable that it should remain in tliis desolate condition, since it communicates so immediately with Lefooga, which b so well cultivated; the west-side of it has a bending, where thete seems to be good anchorage ; and the east-side has a reef, as v^ell as Lefooga. Uninhabited as Hoolaiva is, an artificial mount has been raised upon it, equal in height to some of the surrounding trees. On T'lesday, the 27th, at break of day, the commodore made the signal to weigh ; and as he intended to attempt, in his wtiy to Tongataboo, a passage to Annamooka, by the south-west, ainong the intermediate isles 'le sent Mr. Bligh in a boat to •ifHmd before the ships. But before they got under sail, the wind ],• ' ame so variable and unsettled as to render it unsafe to atteijpt a passage with which they were so little acquainted: they 'Kereiore lay fast, and made signal for the master to return. Ca4>ioin Cook had now an opportunity of discovering that Feeiimi v/as not the king of the Friendly Islands, but only a sv>bQrdinat^ chief; for that title, it appeared belonged to Futta^ fail e, or Poulaho, whose residence was at Tongataboo, and wh£> camfc no-sy under the stern of the Resolution, in a large sailing canoe. '^ It being my interest," says the captain, " as well as my iiicUnation, to pay court to all the great men, without ♦ Tc^ala, in the language of these people, is man ; Areekee, king. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 li£ |2g |2.5 |50 *^~ Hi^l 1.1 r.-^iis tabu 1.8 11:25 |||||_u 11.6 PhotogLBphic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 I 156 cook's third voyage, 1776—1780. inquiring into the validity of their assumed iitles, I invited Poulaho on-board, as I understood he was very der^rous to come ; he could not be an unwelcome guest ; for he brought with him as a present to me, two good fat hogs ; though not so fat as himself. If weight of body could give weight in rank or power, he was certainly the most eminent man in that respect we had seen : for, though not very tall, he was very unwieldy, and almost snapeless with corpulence ; he seemed to be about forty years of age, had straight hair, and his features differed a good deal from those of the bulk of the people." " By^ a prudent regulation in their government," he adds, ** the natives have an officer over the police, or something like it. Tliis department, when we were amongst them, was administered bvFeenou; whose business, we were told, was to punish all offenders, whether against the state, or against individuals. He was also generalissimo, and commanded the warriors, when called out upon service ; but, by all accounts, this is very seldom. The king frequently took some pains to inform us of Feenou's office ; and among other things, told us, that if he himself should become a bad man, Feenou would kill him. What I understood by this expression of being d| bad man, was, that if he did not govern according to law or custom, Feenou would be ordered by the other great men, or by the people at large, to put him to death. There should seem to be no doubt, that a sovereign, thus liable to be controlled, and punished for an abuse of power, cannot be called a despotic monarch." Poulaho appeared to be a sedate, sensible man ; after he had seen every object on deck, and asked many pertinent ques- tions, the captain desired hiin to walk down into the cabin ; to this some of his attendants objected, observing that if he were to do so, it must happen, that people would walk over his head, which could not be permitted. To obviate this, the captain gave them to understand, that no one should presume to walk on that part of the deck which was over the cabin; whether tlus would have satisfied them was far from appearing ; but the king himself, less scrupulous, waved all ceremony, and walked down without any stipulation ; he sat down with them to dinner, but ate little, and drank less, and when he rose from the table, lie desired the captain to accompany him ashore. Omai was asked to be of the party ; but he had formed the closest connec- tion with Feenou, with whom (as the strongest proof of it) he had exchanged names ; and the crew was too faithfully attached to him to shew any attention to his competitor ; he therefore ex- cused himself; the captain, in his own boat, attended the king ashore ; having first made him presents that surjiassed liis expectations ; in return for which, Foulaho ordered two more hogs to be sent on-bqard. The chief was then carried out of the boat, by his own subjects, on a board resembling a hand-barrow, and immediately seated himself in a small house near the shore. cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. 157 es, I invited ' der^Tous to r he brought tough not so ight in rank 1 that respect ry unwieldy, to be about res differed a t," he adds, ;thing like it. administered o punish all ividuals. He rriors, when very seldom, of Feenou's imself should i understood if he did not e ordered by • put him to a sovereign, m abuse of n ; after he 'tinent ques- le cabin; to If he were to T his head, Ithe captain ime to walk ; whether ^g; but the md walked to dinner, le table, lie lOmai was }st connec- )f of it) he |y attached jrefore ex- ;uded the 9sed liis I two more I out of the |d-barrow, the shore. '1 I He placed the captain at his side ; and his attendants fonned a semi-circle before them, on the outside of the house ; an old woman sat close to the chief, with a kind of fan in her hand, to prevent his beinp" incommoded with the Hies. The various arti- cles which liis people had procured by trading onboard the ships being now displayed before him, he attentively looked over them all, inquired what they had given in exchange, and at length ordered every thing to be returned to the respective owners, except a glass bowl, which he reserved for himself. Those who brought these things to him first squatted themselves doAvn before liim, then deposited their purchases, and instantly rose and retired ; they observed the same ceremony in taking them away ; and not one of them presumed to speak to him standing; his attendants, just before they left him, paid him obeisance, by bowing their heads down to the sole of his foot, and touching it with the upper and under side oi* the lingers of each hand. Captain Cook was charmed vvith the decorum that was maintained on this occasion, having scarcely seen the like any where, even amongst more civilized nations. when the captain arrived on-board he found the master re- turned from his expedition, who informed him, that as far as he had proceeded there was a passage for the ships, and tolerable anchorage ; but, that towards the south and south-east, he ob- served numerous shoals, breakers, and small isles. In conse- quence of this report, he relinquished all thoughts of a passage that way ; and being resolved to return to Annamooka by the same route which he had so lately experienced to be a safe one; and should have sailed the next morning, which was the 28th, if the wind had not been unsettled ; Poulaho came early on-board, bringing a red-feathered cap as a present to Captain Cook. These caps were greatly sought after by our men, as they knew they would be highly valued at Otaheite ; but not one was ever brought for sale, though very large prices were offered; nor could a person in either ship make himself the proprietor of one, except the two captains and Omai. They are composed of the tail feathers of the tropic bird, intermixed with the red feathers of the parroquet ; and are made in such a manner as to tie on the forehead without any crown, and have the form of a semi-circle, whose radius is eighteen or twenty inches ; the chief left the ship in the even- ing ; but his brother, whose name also was Futtafaihe, and some of his attendants, remained all night on-board. On the 29th, at day-break, they weighed with a fine breesse at east north-east', and made sail to the westward, followed by several saihng canoes, in one of which was Poulaho, the king, who getting on-board the Resolution, inquired for his brother, and the others wlio had continued with them all night. It was now found that they had staid without his permission, for he gave them such a reprimand as brought tears from their eyes : how- ever, he was soon reconciled to their making a longer stay ; for. 158 cook's third voyage, 1770—1780. : ri on his departare from the ship, he left his brother and five at- tendants on-board ; they were alsoj honoured witli the company of a chief named Tooboueitoa, just then arrived from Ton gata- boo ; who, as soon as he came, sent away his canoe, declaring tliat ho, and five others who came with him, would sleep on- board; so that Captain Cook now had his cabin tilled with visitors ; this inconvenience he the more wilHngly endured, as tliey brought with them plenty of provisions as presents to him, for which they met with suitable returns. In the afternoon, the easterly mnd was succeeded by a fresh breeee at south south-east. Their course being now south south- went, the: ^^re obliged to ply to windward, and barely fetched the northern side of Footooha by ei^ht o'clock in the evening. The next day, the} plied up to Lo 'anga, and got soundings, un- ^ der the lee or north-west side, in forty fathoms' water; but tlie bottom being rocky, and a chain of breakers lying to leeward, they stretched away for Kotoo, expecting to find better anchor- age there. It was dark before they reached tliat island, where finding no convenient place to anchor in, they passed the night in making short boards; on the 3 Ist, at day-break, they stood for the channel which is between Kotoo and the reef of rocks lying to the westwaid of it ; but, on their ajiproach, they found the wind insufficient to lead them through ; they therefore bore up on the outside of the reef, and stretched to the south-west till near twelve o'clock, when, perceiving that they made no pro- gress to windward, and being apprehensive of losing the islands while they had so many of the natives on-board, they tacked and stood back, and spent the ni^ht between Footooha and Kotoo. The wind now blew fresh, with squalls and rain ; and, during the night, the Resolution, by a small change of the wind, fetch- ing too far to the windward, was very near running full upon a low, sandy isle, named Pootoo-Pootooa, encompassed with breakers. The people having fortunately been just Omdered upon deck, to put the ship about, and most of them being at their respective stations, the necessary movements were per- formed with judgment and alertness, and this alone preserved them from destruction; the Discovery being astern, incuiTed no danger. 'Riis narrow escape so alarmed the natives who were on-board, that they were eagerly desirous of getting ashore ; accordingly, on the return of day-light, a boat was hoisted out, and the oiii- cer who commanded her was ordered, after landing them at Kotoo, to sound for anchorage along the reef that projects from tliat island ; during the absence of the boat, our men endea- vonred to turn the ships through the channel between the reef of Kotoo and the sandy isle ; but, meeting with a strong current against, them, were obliged to desist, and cast anchor in iifty fathoms' water, the sandy isle bearing east by north, about the distance of one mile. Here they remained till the 4th of June, COOJv'S THIRD VOYAGE, 1776 — 1780. 159 and five at- he company )m Tongata- e, declaring lid sleep on- 1 tilled with endured, as icnts to him, :d by a fresh south south- irely fetched the evening, undings, un- ter; but tlie : to leeward, jtter anchor- land, where led the night L, they stood reef of rocks I, they found jrefore bore >uth-west till ade no pro- » the islands tacked and and Kotoo. and, during wind, fetch- j full upon )assed with ast Otdered m being at were per- e preserved n, incuiTed •e on-board, ccordingly, md the oni- i§ them at ojects from nen endea- the reef of ng current ;hor in lifty about the ih of June, I >1 being frequently \ isited by the king, by Tooboueitoa, and bv people who came from the neighbouring islands to traflSc ^vitn fheni. Mr. Bligh was, in the meantime, dispatched to souiid the diannels between the islands situated to the eastward ; and Cap- tain Cook himself landed on Kotoo, to take a survey of it. This island, on account of the coral reefs that environ it^ is scarcely accessible by boats ; its north-west end is low ; but it rises sua- deiily in the middle, and terminates at the south-east end in red- disli, clayey cliffs. It produces the same fruits and roots found oil the adjacent islands, is tolerably cultivated, tliough tliinly in- habited, and is about two miles in length. While the commo- dore was walking all over it, our people were occupied in cut- ting grass for the cattle, and they planted some melon seeds. cKi tlieir return to the boat, they passed by some ponds of dirty, bradcish water, and saw a burying-place, which was considerably neater than those at Hapaee. i . , . , , They weighed in the mornmg of the 4th, and with a fresh gaie at east south-east, made sail towards Annamooka, where they an- diored tlie next morning, nearly in the same station which they had so lately occupied. Captain Cook soon after went on-shore, and found tlie islanders very busy in their plantations, digging up yams for trattic. In the course of the day, about two hundred of tJiem assembled on the beach, and traded with great eagerness. It appeared that they had been very ddigent during their ab- in cultivating ; for our men now observed several large sence, plantain-iields in places which, in their late visit, they had seen lying waste. The yams were now in the highest perfection ; and they obtained a good quantity of them, in exchange for iron. Belbre the captain returned on-board, he visited the several places where he had sown melon and cucumber seeds ; but founds tO'his great regret, that most of them had been destroyed by ver- min ;. though some pine-apple plants, which he had also left, were in a thriving condition. On Friday, the 6th, about noon, Feenou arrived from Vavaoo, and informed them, that several canoes, laden with hOgs and odier provisions, had sailed with him from that island, but had been last in the late tempestuous weather, and every person on- l)oard of them had perished. This melancholy tale did not gain mudi credit, as our men were by this time sufficiently acquainted yfiHi the character of the relater ; the truth perhaps Avas, that he had been unable to procure at Vavaoo the expected supplies ; r if he had obtained any there, that he had left them at Hapaee, which lay in his way back, and where he must have heard that P(mlaiio had come to visit us ; who, therefore, he knew, would, iis his superior, reap all the merit and reward of procuring these supplies, without having had any participation of the trouble. Tlie invention, however, of this loss at sea was not ill imagined ; lor there had lately been very stormy weather. On the suc- ceeding morning, Poulaho and some otliejr cliieis arrived : at ICO COOK*S THIRD VOYAGE, 1776 — 1780. ill l ■? a which time Captain Cook happened to be ashore with Feenou, who now appeared to be sensible of the impropriety of his con- duct, in arrogating a character which he had no Just claim to ; for he not only acknowledged Poulaho as sovereign of Tongata- boo and the adjacent isles, but affected to insist much on it. The captain left him, and went to pay a visit to the king, whom he found sitting with a few of the natives before him, but great numbers hastening to pay their respects to him. the circle in- creased very fast. When Feenou approached, ne placed him- self among the rest that sat before Poulaho, as attendants on his majesty; he at first seemed to be somewhat confused and abashed ; but soon recovered from his agitation ; some conver- sation passed between these two chiefs, who went on-board with the captain to dinner ; but only Poulaho sat at table. Feenou, after having made lus obeisance in the usual mode, b)^ saluting the foot of his sovereign with his head and hands, retired from the cabin ; and it now appeared that he could neither eat nor drink m the king's presence. On the 8th, they weighed anchor, and steered for Tongataboo, witli a gentle breeze at north-east, accompanied by fourteen or fifteen sailing vessels belonging to the islanders, every one of which outran the ships. The royal canoe was distinguished from the rest by a small bundle of grass, of a red colour, fastened to the end of a pole, and fixed in the stem of the canoe, in the same manner as our ensign staffs ; at five in the afternoon, they descried two small islands, at the distance of four leagues to the westward ; one was called Hoonga Hapaee, and the other Hoon^a Tonga. They are situated in the latitude of 30 deg. 36 min. south, about ten leagues from the western point of Annamooka. According to the information of two islanders who had been sent on-board by Feenou as pilots, only five men resided on Hoonga Hapaee, and Hoonga Tonga had no inhabitants. They still pro- ceeded on a south-west course, and on the 9th, saw several little islands, beyond which Eooa and Tongataboo appeared. They had at this time twenty-five fathoms' water, the bottom consisting of broken coral and sand ; the depth gradually decreased as the ship approached the above-mentioned small isles ; steering by the direction of our pilots, for the widest space between those isles, they were insensibly drawn upon a Idrge flat, on which lay innumerable rocks of coral below the surface of the sea. Not- withstanding the utmost care and attention to avoid these rocks, they were unable to prevent the ship from striking on one of them : nor did the Discovery, though behind, keep clear of them. It fortunately happened, that neither of the ships stuck fast, or sustairivsd any damage, but they still continued their course, and the moment they found a place where they could anchor with any de.^ree of safety, they ca^re to, and the masters were dispatched w th the boats to souiu . Soon after they had cost anchor, several of the natives of Tongataboo came to Uiem i with Feenou, y of his coii- ust claim to ; I of Tongata- much on it. king, whom im, but great he circle in- placed hira- idants on his )nfused and ome conver- i-board with e. Feenou, , bj^ saluting retired from ither eat nor Fongataboo, fourteen or every one of listinguished lur, fastened anoe, in the moon, they agues to the her Hoonga leg. 36 min. innamooka. d been sent Hoonga ley still pro- everal little red. They consisting ased ajs t^ steering by ween those which lay sea. Not- lese rocks, on one ot' clear of hips stuck med their they could le masters they had le to them cook's third voyage, 177G — 1780. 161 ^'4^ & 'a in their canoes ; and they, as well as the pilots, assured them, that they should meet with deep water further in, free from rocks ; tlieir intelligence was true, for about four o'clock, the boats made a signal of having found good anchoring-ground. The ships, therefore, weighed, and stood in till dark, when they tuichored in nine fathoms' water, with a clear, sandy bottom. During the night they had some rain ; but, early in the mornii»g, the wind becoming southerlv, and bringing on fair weather, they weighed a^ain, and worked to\>ards the shore of Tongataboo. While plying up the harbour, the king continued sailing round them in his canoe ; and at tlie same time there was a great num- ber of small canoes about the ships ; two of these not getting out of the way of his royal vessel, he ran quite over them with the greatest unconcern. Among those who came on-board the Resolution, was Otago, who had been so useful to Captain Cook when he visited Tongataboo in his last voyage ; and one Toobou, who had, at that time, attached himself to Captain Furneaux. lEIach of them brought some yams and a hog, in testimony of friendship ; for which they received a suitable return. The ships arrived at their intended station about two o'clock in the after- noon of the 10th of June ; it was a very convenient place, formed by the shore of Tongataboo on the south-east, and two little isles on the east and north-east. Here both ships anchored over a sandy bottom, where the depth of water was ten fathoms. The distance from the shore exceeded a quarter of a mile. They had not been long at anchor off Tongataboo, when Captain Cook landed on the island, accompanied by some of the oiHcers and Omai ; they found the king waiting for them on the beach, who conducted them to a small, neat house near the woods, with an extensive area before it, and told the captam, that it was at his service during his continuance on the island. Before they had been long in the house, a large circle of the natives assembled before them, and seated themselves upon the area. A root of the kava plant being brought to the king, he commanded it to be split in pieces, and distributed to several people, of both sexes, who began to chew it, and soon prepared a bowl of their fa- vourite Uquor. Meanwhile, a baked hog. and a quantity of baked yams, were produced, and divided into ten portions. These shares were given to those who were present, except one, which remained undisposed of, and which was probably reserved for the king himself. The liquor was next served out ; and the first cup being brought to his majesty, he ordered it to be given to a person who sat near him : the second was also brought to hina, which he kept : the third was given to Captain Cook ; but their mode of preparing the liquor having given him a distaste for it, it was brought to Omai. The remainder of it was distri- buted to different people ; and one of the cups being carried to Poulaho's brother, he retired with it, and with his share of pro- visions. Some others also withdrew from the circle with their IG2 cook's third voyage, 1776—1780. portions, because they conld neither eat nor drink in his majesty 'a presence : but there were others of an inferior rank, of botli sexes, who both ate and drank before him ; soon after^vards, the greater part of them went away, carrying with them what they had not eaten of their share of the feast. It is worthy of re- mark, tiiat the servants, who distributed the meat and thekava, delivered it sitting, not only to the king, but to the others. Captain Cook, before he returned on-board, went in search of a watering-place, and was conducted to some ponds, in one of which the water was tolerable, but it was at some distance inland. Being informed that the small island of Pangimodoo,near which the snips were stationed, could better supply this important article, he went over to it the next morning, and found there a pool containing fresher water than any he had met with among these islands. This pool being extremely dirty, he caused it to be cleaned ; and here it was that the men filled the water-caska. The same morning a tent was pitched near the house which the king had assigned for their use ; the horses, cattle, and sheep, were then landed, and a party of marines stationed there as a guard ; the observatory was set up at an inconsiderable dis- tance from the other tent ; and Mr. King took up his residence on^ore to direct the observations, and superintend all other necessary business. A party was occupied in cutting wood for fuei, and planks for the ships ; and the gunners were appointed to conduct the traffic with the inhabitants, who flocked from all parts of the island with hogs, yams, cocoa-nuts, and otlier articles, insomuch, that the land station resembled a fair, and tJie ships were remarkably crowded with visitants. Feenou, residing in the neighbourhood, our voyagers had daily proofs of his opulence and generosity, by the continuance of his valuable donations ; Poulaho was equally attentive to our men in this reuiipect, as scarcely a day passed without his favouring their. with considerable presents; they were now informed that a person of the name of Mareewagee was of a very high rank in that island, and was treated with great reverence ; nay, if the interpreter, Omai, did not misunderstand his informers, that lie ^vas superior to Poulaho himself; but that, being advanced in years, he Uved in retirement, and therefore was not inclined to pay them a visit. This intelligence exciting the curiosity of Captain Cook, he signified to Poulaho his intention of waiting upon Mareewagee ; and the king having agreed to accompany him, they set out the next morning in the pinnace. Captain Clejke joining them in one of liis own boats ; they proceeded to tlie eastward of the littie isles v^ hich form the harbour, and then, turning towards the south, entered a spacious bay, up which they rowed about three miles, and landed amidst a great concourse of people, who received them with shouts and accla- mations. The crowd instantly separated, that Poulaho might pass, who took our gentlemen into a small enclosure, and II (i "^ n his majestj 's rank, of* both r>n aftenvards, t'ith them what s worthy of re- t and thekavu, e others. nt in search of >nds, in one of [stance inland, oo, near which this important found there a it with among aused it to be B water-caskJs. use which tlie e, and sheep, led there as a siderable df.s- his residence tend aJl other ting wood for re appointed ked from all and otiier a fair, and Feenoii lily proofs of us valuable men in this ouring tiiem ined that a )igh rank in lay, if the lers, that lie dvanced in inclined to uriosity of of waiting iccompajiy e. Captain proceeded rbour, and bay, up dst a great and accla- ho might suiCj and COOK-'S THIRD voYAGE, 177C— 1780. 163 its thanged the piece of cloth he wore, for a ne>y piece very neatly folded; an old woman assisted in dressing him, and put a large mat over hia cloth. Being now asked where Mareewagee was, he said, to the great surprise of the gentlemen, that he was gone down to the ships ; however, he requested them to accompany him to a malaee, or house of pubHc resort ; and when they came to a large area before it, he seated himself in the path, while they, at his desire, walked up to tlie house, and sat down in the front. After waiting a little while, they repeated their in- quiries, by the medium of Omai, whether they were to be intro- duced to Mareewagee? But receiving no satisfactory answer, and being incHned to suspect that the aged cliief was purposely cMicealed from them, they returned to their boats much piqued at their disappointment. It a'terwards appeared that Maree- wagee had not been there; aid that, in this affair, some gross mistakes had been made, Omai, either having been misinformed, or having misunderstood wlmt was told him concerning the alfi chief. ITie place our gentlemen went to was a very pleasant village delighthilly situated on the banks of the bay or inlet, where most of the principal persons of the island reside ; eacli of these has a house in the midst of a small rdantation, with a kind of out-house, and offices for servants. These plantations are neatly fenced round, and, in general, have only one entrance whicn is by a door fastened on the inside with a prop of wood ; between each plantation there are public roads and narrow lanes ; a considerable part of some of these enclosures is laid out in grass-plats, and planted with such things as seem less adapted for use than for ornament ; in such other plantations as were not the residence of persons of high rank, every article of the veget- able produce of the island was in great plenty ; and near the public roads are some large houses, with spacious grass-plats before them, which were said to belong to the king, and are probably the places where their public meetings are held. On Friday, the 13th, about twelve o'clock, Mareewagee came within a small distance of tlie post on-shore, attended by a great number of people of all ranks. In the course of tlie after- iio(m, die two captains, and others of our gentlemen, accompanied by Feenou, went on-shore to visit him^; diey found a person sitting under a tree, with a piece of cloth, about forty yards long, spread before him, round which numbers of people were seated, lliey imagined that this was the great personage, but were undeceived by Feenou, who informed them that another, who was sitting oi a piece of mat, was Mareewagee ; to liim they were introduced by Feenou ; and he received them very gra- ciously, and desired them to sit down by him. The chief, who sat under the tree, was named Toobou, whom we shall for the future call old Toobou to distinguish him from his namesake, who has been ah-eady mentioned as Captain Fumeaux's friend. ■|!% i 164 ^K-s rfl,„o vov.oE, ifrc Bod' lie and M ^^' ""O-irso. meet .viTt^io cff"V^r'^ "»' expTctS,' ''l"??.''<'"''Ker',h ^ only : (his (h Ji^f I ' '"«' broueht on Jk* " ""» "eeasion („ «%pei™a"ce^''«/rV'''^''^'»ed'^hem^^^^^^ firing of a dS .1. . A**" ^^fench horns »^ i" "" ''»•"• witk two chiefs, the hZl S '"''' ?".■■ gentlemen tool .r'^'j**' "^^me,! «o Cantain pLZ ^'f '"*<'« of c oth wa. «!ii j •"«"■ leave ofilu. mornC old"T^'J»8ether "fth a^ewe^ "P' f ""* «!««" d • visit: hf',|°,o vSed°r/?"?* ^"""''oard trrl""''-, ^e "« 'vas not suflicien Iv . P^"'" '^'e'ke: and if (hi f""* «»P'ai„'s plied. In thTZntiSTlVr'™'''''' *« Si^cv IT^P""*"™' werestationpli „ 1 *'™'"*ewaeeewpnt. ^ ^^^ "ow sun- «iey had there H,""*' ""^ ^f S« shew^VrP*"?'* ^io the cattle • a^' a?* ""« "'"ick with XI™,"*'' '"" whatever i noon Pn. lA '"* "oss^;ut saw nVett»^ v "'"•" »' «he si^ ""- crowded. iSe S«r^'^^ ^^^anie co'^J^aul^H'"'"^^ «nd wa« fond of ouf ^f ' '*'?» '•^concfffto Fn^? T'^ '""^h ?"r tent, where he ^n^"^' *J^ "«^ resided affr'^ /^^^^^'T. dance, i , which]V\i' fJ*'"^"^ enteSp^ !f ^'^ '^''^^^^ "ear eng-aged. ^""'"^ ^'^ ^"^'^^ though so X.denr^SS"^^" ^'^'^ « ^On the 15th, Captain C i. "^ ""^^^^^^^ sitting like onr^f .u^^^^^ted on that rh.ff f ^'^ on-shore. tree, ^th a jaTgVpyel^r t"u* P^t^^^^^^^^^^^^ fPread out before h'm ''L''^^^^' the manufactnri ^¥i^ade of a him ; after which h J?'. ^S^ '^^^^^ed them to n" ?u ^^^ ^^^^nd, niis and red fe«fh '°^^ ^™^'^ that the dnth^f' •fu*^^'"^^^^^^ by ^he latter ?hankedT- "T*^^"^^^ »"« P^^^^^^^^ ^««««- on-board w ffii"^^ ^A«» '«r the donat?oT and„ t*5*? " ^«"'^- the captain wS.^ ""^^P**^ being sent fXri ^"^'^^^ him to so '^«naumai seated under a cook's third voyage, 1776—1780. 105 ir appearance, d to be near :orpulent, and younger than is occasion to resent for oiic en them ; but, ppeared to l)e t an Iiour with mm; but the teket, seemed ir leave oftlie ind presented 3. The next the captain's ►rmer present as now sup- ir people who lim whatever t the sight of on. Towards hisson^ wlio iptain Cook ; it down vnth him for his quentlv the \, and few of her he nor ;re very im- jtted at that (very much tt cookery, falaee near )ple with a unwieldy, from old on-shore. ley found Ihade of a le island, [selves by \e cocoa- lin Cook. pm to go low left [ttafaihe, jyed the under a canopy of fine cloth, with a piece of a coarser kind, twenty-six yards long, and seven and a naif broad, spread before them, and under them. On one side was a (juantity of cocoa-nuts ; and, on the other a large boar ; a multitude of people sat round the^ cloth ; and among tlieni was Mareewagee, with other nersons of rank. 'We captain was requested to seat liimself by the prince ; and then Omai informed him that he had been instructed by Poulalu) to tell him, that as his majesty and the captain were friends, he hoped that his son Fattafailie might be comprehended in this friendship ; and tiiat the captain, as a testimony of his consent, woiJd accept the prince's present. — Captain Cook readily agreed to this proposal, and invited them all to dine on- board. Accordingly the young prince, old Toobou, Maree- wagee, three or four subordinate chiefs, and two old ladies of higli rank, accompanied the commodore to the sliip, Maree- w^gee was dressed in a new piece of cloth, with six patches of red feathers on the skirts of it. This dress was probably made on purpose for this visit : for, as soon as he arrived on-board, he put it off, and presented it |to Captain Cook ; when dinner was served up, not one of them would even sit down, or eat a morsel of any tning, as they were all taboo, they said, which word, though it has a comprehensive moaning, generally signities that a tiling is prohibited. Why they were thus restrained at present was not accounted for ; but, having made presents to them all, and gratified their curiosity by shewing them every part of the ship, the captain conducted them on-shore. When tne boat had reached the land, Feenou and several others immediately step- ped out; and the young prince following them, was called back by Mareewagee, who now paid the heir apparent the same obeisance as the king was accustomed to receive ; and when old Toobou, and one of the old ladies, had honoured him with the same marks of respect, he was suffered to land. After this ceremony, tlie old people stepped out of the boat into a canoe, which was waiting to convey tiiem to their place of residence. Captain Cook was pleased at being present on this occasion, as he was thus furnished with the most convincing proofs of the supreme dignity of Poulaho and his son. By this time, indeed, he had gained some certain information with regard to the rela- tive situation of several of the chiefs ; and, he now knew that old Toobou and Mareewagee were brothers ; both of them were men of very considerable property, and in high estimation with the people : Mareewagee, in particular, had obtained the ho- nourable appellation of Motoaa Tonga, which implies, father of Tonga, or of his country ; it was now understood that he was the king's father-in-law, Poulaho having espoused one of his daughters, by whom he had young Fattafaihe ; so that Maree- wagee was grandfather to the prince. As for Feenou, he was one of the sons of Mareewagee, and Tooboueitoa was another. Captain Cook on his landing, found PoulaJio in the house I Of) cook's TIIIU!) VOVAOFm I77f) — 1780. . il :| adjoining to the tent, who immediately made him a present oi a qiinntitv of yams and a hng. Towards evening;, a number of the islanders came, and having seated themselves m a circle, suni; in concert with the music of bamboo-drums, which were placed in the centre ; three ol' them were long ones, and two were short With these they struck the ground endwise. — There were tuo others that lay side by side on the ground, one of which \vas partly split ; on these a person continued beating with two stiiki They sung three songs while the captain staid; and the ente^ tainment lasted, after he had left them, till ten o'clock. — ITiey burned the leaves of the wharra-palm for a light. In the ikieantime, Mr. Anderson, with several others, madt an excursion into the country, which, westward of the tent, ^r about two miles is entirely uncultivated, though covered wiili trees and bushes, growing naturally with the greatest vigour, Beyond this a pretty, large plain extends itself, on which ate cocoa-trees, and Home small plantations. Near the creek, which runs west of the tent, the land is perfectly flat, and partly overflowed every tide by the sea ; when the water retires, the surface is seen to consist of coral rock interspersed with lK)le9 of yellowish mud ; and near the edges, where it is rather nwne flnn, are vast numbers of little openings, whence issue innunv'i- able small crabs, which swarm upon the spot, but are so very nimble that when approaclieear, tavour to catch fies some de- is a narrow 1, rises with a I readth is five paces. Ad- imeter, about ns it ; and in the opposite iu ruins aivi ilt of large, rgro^vn with places it is o serv ice at times. All [uld procure elonged to Gore toolc met with cloth, the lany others relating. le slender rows more cooK'j THiun vcvAO.":, I7:c — ir.^f). lor tlian »evcn feet in height, and about the tiiickne«s of (bur lin;jor.s. From these stalks they strip the bark, and scrape off the exterior rind; after whicli the bark is rolled up, and macerated for some time in water; it is then beaten with a square instrument of wood, full of coarse grooves, but some- times with a plain one. The operation is often repeated by another person ; or, the bark is folded several times and beat longer, which is probably intended to close rather than diNide its trxture. It is then spread out to dry; the pieces being from four to six or seven feet in length, and about half as brofid. These pieces are joined by smearing part of them with the glutinous juice of a berrv called iooo; and, after being thus lengthened, thc> .-re placed over a large piece of wood, with a sort of stamp, composed of a tibrous substance, laid beneath them. — The manufacturers then take a bit of clolh, and having dipped it in a juice extracted from the bark of a tree called kokka, rub it briskly over the piece that is making. This leaves upon the surface, a dry gloss, and a dull brown colour, and the stamp makes at the same time a slight impres- sion ; thus they proceed, joining and staining by degrees, till a piece of cloth the requisite length and breadth is prodiioed. They generally leave a border, about a foot broad, at tlte sides, and rather longer at the ends, unstained. If any parts of the original pieces have holes, or are too thin, they glue spare bits upon them till their thickness equals that of the rest. Whenever tliey are desirous of producing a black colour, they mix the juice of die kokka with the soot procured from the oily nut called dooedooe; they assert, that the black cloth, which is usually most glazed, makes a cold dress ; but the other a warm one. The commodore and Mr. Gore, meeting with Feenou on- their return from their excursion, took him and another chief on board to dinner; wliich being served up, neither of them would eat a morsel, alleging that they were tnhoo avi/f but when they found that in dressing a pig and some yams, no avi/ (water) had l)een made use of, they both sat down, and ate very heartily, and drank sonie wine, on being assured that there was no Avater in it; froni diis circumstance it was inferred, that they were at this time, for some particular reason, forbidden to use water ; or that perhaps they did not like the water then used, it being taken out of one of the places where the islanders bathed. The following day, which was the 17th, was fixed upon by Mareew agee for givmg a grand haiva, or entertainment, at w hicn all our crew were invited to attend. — Before the temporary hut of this chief, near the land station, a large space had been cleared for that purpose ; in the morning, vast numbers of the natives came in from the country, every one of whom bore on his shoulder a long pole, at each end of which a yam was sus- pended. These poles and yams being deposited on each side of the open space, or area, formed two large heaps, decorated 1G8 COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE, 17;6- :m - with small fish of rf-ff ''' '?'-6-lM0. amidst whSm wpl ?^ ^^^^i^ted of a7yentr^^ ""^^^ '««*• The drums, thoTX t£v 3-w'^ *^'"" 'n«trum7„te« ^ « ^ Ws some of them tm-celT-^f^''^'" three To four T*. •^''.^^ «>•« ' Vfi^orously *upo„ i? , vf "^^ towards them 5f """ f ^'^ ''^^^ made manVdiffe?^^? mstruments which are '^fr^^-oblonj thegro„„/„n„e".dr*'''7i «^l' as poLtini i^^*;^' «% •lie same instanf "Hf V??."* "i<= niiiff tWO- . '""'ar* same mannpr " ' ■" ^'"'^'ing tliem to S! °"*?'» ""at way J hand to tJ," other^f T«^ ^'" 'vithirel^^^Pr'^ '"''« m & were slow at fiZf ■ . '" manoeuvres tI. • "^^markable dej. ■•epeated"e„Ssr.t?f «» «h« Smsfeff?'*''™' '^'"'^k answered bv tK„ * "'''* "me in a n«L;r»1 1^**""', «'"' % and ended w!f,«' •"". in a shnil 1- *"?«' "h reh were "■ey began S' befo-'"'"^ ^^^ a cessat ro/«7 "^ J"™^ "anlsofaoi^rternf' *'^'' """''nued wftbih^f ^'^ "''""«». moved slow iTonnl *" t"'"; and then T re»^' '"'f "^al'' "P- the first rank • T"" ^a?"" end, met in (hf J " ''anfc dividing to recite Ste'noer'W""'' ^-ie the"^fe ^ont and f„r„,'S till that which ^-f^T^ other ranks successivT^?5 \»""'"''e''™me;a„dti.e^trC^^^^me„as ch„„. "tractors, consisted of two JO. Mareewagee's the necessary , about eleven call mat. The n as a chorus, our men calWi em. They are feet in length, ' size, and some ; at each end, ►f three inches, \y this opening, J an operation e natives nq^; ley sit and beat 's of woodj as y which means educed. They r beating; anil the end or in ich, in the first wooden instru- [lape an oblong ipagge, they hem towards s that way at :e side in the ss from one larkable dex- )tions, which er; and they , which were y all joined few minutes, ptervals, up- ik dividing, ind formed Ir continued Id the same^ ns evolution ituation , a )egun, and 1 a two-fold I of circular ^ring, and with only jdoftwo '/M'^ !.| I f 'I I If i I < COOK'S THiao VOYAGE, 1776-1780 -wrf the chonis retired, L in ?he ml.L"'"? '^^^"^ taken ai^v' measure, clear TV. t*»earea, and left the sroun^ ' '^^^^^ed, ^em with Sea? „„• u ^^^«^ «««* made cirCw Jf i ^^9 ^''^ hand to the other. Ind'^ 7^^ uncommon dexterity '?f^'^^'^^»- made various mnf' ^' ^^^^^ ^ome time W^fJi^i '^'^'" one -tching^mrt^^^^^^^^^^^^ "p ^^^^ih^ctV:z' r} entered. Thpv h^Y • ' ^'^^J then retired a« J.o l-f "^^ and <^ee r :.• ! 17.0 cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. 1' Pi 'If Jit In the fourth and last dance^ there were forty men as a chorus, with two drums. The performers were sixty men, arranged in three rows, having twenty-four in front. Before they com- menced, our people were entertained with a preliminary harangue, in which the whole number made responses to an individual speaker. They recited sentences alternately with the chorus, and made with the pagge many quick motions. They divided into two parties, with their backs to each other ; formed again, shifted their ranks, as in the preceding dances, divided, and re- treated, being succeeded by two men who exercised their clubs as before, after whom came two others ; the dancers in the mean time repeating in their turn with the chorus : they then advanced and terminated the dance. These amusements continued from eleven o'clock till near three. The number of islanders who attended as spectators, together "with those who were round the trading-place at the tent, or were straggling about, amounted to at least ten thousand, all within the compass of a quarter of a mile. If our men had understood what was spoken in this entertainment, they might probably have gained much information with regard to the genius and customs of these people. Though the spectators constantly applauded the different motions, when well made, a considerable share of the pleasure they received, "seemed to arise from the sentimental part, or what the performers recited. However, the mere acting part well deservea our notice, on ac- count of the extensiveness of the plan, the variety of the motions, and the exact unity, ease, and gracefulness, \vith which they were performed. In the evening, our voyagers were entertained with thebomai. or night dances, on a large area before the temporary dwelling- place of Feenou. They continued three hours ; during which time about twelve of them were performed, nearly in the same manner as those at Hapaee. In two of them, which were per- formed by women, a party of men came and formed a circle within theirs. In another, which consisted of twenty-four men, many motions which they had not before seen were made ^ith the hands, and met with great applause. The music was one changed in the course of the evening ; and, in one of the dances, Feenou himself appeared at the head of fifty men ; he ^vas well dressed in linen, and some small pictures were hung round his neck. Though the whole entertainment was conducted with better order than could reasonably have been expected, yet the utmost care and attention could not prevent our men being plundered by the natives, in the most daring and insolent manner. There was scarcely any thing which they did not endeavour to steal. They once, in the middle of the day, attempted to take an anchor from off" the Discovery's bow, but without effect. The onl.\ violence of wliich they were guilty, was, the breaking the § ■ M so. «en as a chorus len, arranged in ^tpre they com. unary harangue, o an individual ith the chorus, They divided ; (ormed again, ivided, and re- »ed their chibs 3rs in the mean then advanced 'lock till near as spectators, g:-pJace at the ten thousand, our men had % they might Jg-ard to the tie spectatore » well made, a/seemed to «ers recited, lotfoe^ on ac- ' the motions, -i which they I h the bomai. i fy dwelling! * I iring which f n the sanie h were per- aed a circle r-four men, de ^ith the was cm- he dances, le ^vas well round his 4 COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE, I776-I780. he utmost plundered f. There r to steal. 3n anchor rhe onlj king the '"lAUis, 1776—1780. |., snoulder-bone ofone of th died soon after. On WedSay ' 11^^""^'? °I """h •>« ?' .« canoe into the Resnliit;„, ' j . "'' *» is ander sot out being detected, he^p„° s„'T;^^l "'"'t « Pewter.bif„°.' C Upon this occMioirt£ernlH''''™!'«'''a'<>n»-s'de the shin anjentations over .iJeT^s^nt, Z^tLrt^ T'^' ™-d« S wimout sheddmg a tear Tl»-« VvT j„ ^*®^ent manner hnf overS^^f K*""^' ""-of trstelltT*-" "~ o\er tfteir cheek bones- fm- f».^ ^^^P^® bear on the fa#>« tl.em on this part, ruTiff "he Ij^Pf «fvho succeeds in"> 1^°^^ «*' breast, and 4r^ instantly endeavours to lift T-^'^^^ng his with h'iiTin itrnS' V ^" ^'^ back; andifhe la"? "^^^ *^« ^"m, he meets^^^^^^^^ ^^ thr^e t^Is^ZeVti'''''''^ more equally matrh£J *k ^P^^"^® ^or his dexteH^l r?!^***''"^^ 'i '.Ml 172 cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. '■■t'i ■i'l I''? m exertion of strength. When one of them is thrown, he imme- diately retires, while the conqueror sits down for nearly a minute, tlien rises, and goes to the side from whence he came, where the victory is proclaimed aloud. After sitting for a short time, he rises again, and challenges ; and if several antagonists appear, he has the privilege of choosing which of them he pleases to en- gage with: he mav also, if he should throw his competitur, challenge again, till he himself is vanquished ; and then the people on the opposite side chant the song of victory in favour of their champion. It frequently happens that five or six rise from each side, and give challenges together; so that it is not uncommon to see several sets engaged on the field at the same time. They preserve great temper in this exercise, and leave the spot without the least displeasure in their countenances. When they find that they are^ too equally matched, they desist Vy mutual consent; and if it does not clearly appear which oi them has had the advantage, both sides proclaim the victory, and then they engage again. But no one, who has been vanquished, is permitted to engage a second tinve with his conqueror.^ Those who intend to box, advance side-ways, changing the side at every pace, having one arm stretched out before, the other behind ; and holding in okc hand a piece of cord, which they wrap firmly about it, when they meet with an opponent. This is probably intended to prevent a dislocation of the hand or fingers. Their blows are dealt on* dth. great quickness and activity, and are aimed principal.' at the head. They box equally well with either nand. (/ne_ of their most dexterous blows is, to turn round on the heel, just after they have struck their adversary, and to give him another pretty violent blow with the other hand backward. In boxing matches, unless a person strikes his antagonist to the ground, they never sing the song of victory ; which shews that this diversion is less approved among them than wrestling. Not only boys engage in both these exercises, but it not unfrequently happens that little girk box with great obstinacy. On all these occasions they do not consider it as any disgrace to be overcome ; and the vanquished person sits down with as much indifference as if he had never engaged. Some of our people contended with them in both ex- ercises, but were generally worsted. As Captain Cook intended to leave behind him some of the animals he had brought, he thought proper to make a distribu- tion of them before his departure. He, therefore, on the I9th, assembled the chiefs before his house, and marked out his intended presents to them. To the king he gave a bull and a cow ; to Mareewagee a Cape ram and two ewes ; and to Feemn; a horse and ^ mare. He instructed Omai to tell them, that no such animals existed within many months' sail of their island; that they had brought them, with a great degree of trouble and 1^ he iitime- rly a minute, le, where the ort time, he lists appear, leases to en- competitDr, iiid then the >ry in favour i or six rise o that it is ; field at the xercise, and :)untenances. itched^ they ;arly appear proclaim the le, who has id tinve with ihanging the before, the cord, which poiient. This ;he hand or ickness and They box it dexterous have struck olent blow es, unless a er sing the IS approved ge in both little girk [hey do not anquished had newr n both ex- }me of the distribu- the I9th, out his )ull and a to Feenm; 1, that no |ir island; luble and cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. 173 expense, for their use ; that, therefore, they ought not to kill any of them till they had multiplied considerably ; and finally, that they and their posterity ought to remember that thev had received them firom the natives of Britain. Omai also explained to them their respective uses, as far as his limited knowledge in such points would permit him. The captain had intended to ^ive old Toobou two or three goats; but finding that chief mdifferent about them, he added them to the share of Poulaho. It soon appeared that some of the natives were dissatisfied with the allotment of the animals ; for, the next morning, two of the turkey-cocks and one kid were missing. Our commodore being determined to get them restored, seized on three canoes that were along-side the ships; then went on-shore, and having found his majesty, his brother, Feeuou, and some other chiefs, in his house, he immediately appointed a guard over them^ and intimated to them, that they must continue under restraint till not only the turkeys and the kid, but the other things of which he had been plundered at various times were restored. They assured him that the things in question should all be returned ; and then sat down to drink kava, with an appearance of un- concern. Soon afterwards, an axe and an iron wedge, were brought to our men. Some armed natives, in the mean time, began to assemble behind the house ; but they dispersed when a part of the guard marched against them ; and the chiefs at the instigation of the commodore, gave notice that no more should appear. When he invited them to dine on-board, they readily consented. Some of them having afterwards objected to Poulaho'a going, he rose up inunediately, and declared that he would be the first man. Accordingly the chiefs went on-board with Captain Cook, and remained in the ship till near four o'clock ; he then conducted them ashore, and not long after, the kid and one of the turkeys were restored to him. On their promising that the other turkey should be brought back the next morning, he released both them and the canoes. Captain Cook now walked out with Omai, with a view of observing how the natives in the neighbourhood fared ; for this was the usual tinie of their meals. He found that they were, in general, ill supplied; a circumstance not to be wondered at, since most of the yams, and other provisions that they brought with them, they disposed of to the ships, and were unwilling to return to their own habitations while they could procure any suste- nance-near the station of our men. That particular part of the island where the post was, being uncultivated, there were none of the natives who had a fixed residence witliin half a mile of them. Those, therefore, who were at the post were obliged to live under trees and bushes, or in temporary sheds ; and the cocoa- trees were stripped of their branches for the purpose of erecting huts for the chiefs. Omai and the captain in the course of their walk, found six N^i;.- ITi COOK'S rmiu> vovaoe, irre-irso. ion ni ' I i! tfae space between Tf; . ^ afterwards fiSed^^^Slk^'^^ ««epost to Ser at'^Sf^^'^"^ ^^^^nedsticksTc^^?"'' vent the noafT f^!»* *"® distance of evprv f^ ^^^'oss^ from* yams, a^/to t^a.^;^nf T ^^ ^^' -S/Tth^l^^^^^^^ the summit of the first nnc7* .^ ^^^ ^^ the yams Wll u^^ «»em, till each pUewS^tel. ^^^ continued t^^teS ^fh^"^!'^ on the top of one of rt.r^-^^®^* *^'' more in height T? i^^ ^ quantity of exrpi »^. c t ^ *"*; to which a hfrfl. 5' '"'«'«'• ' -".e r^dfttff^^re added, it wtfe^if-tL'S ^Talr"*"' '^ CapS'c^4»P'f««ofoIoth,oom^ldthe me second l^coS^^^^f^ ^^fe-^-'e^feSt' -ctjrd^ffi°''frAwfo'^^tue« performed dividid T^ f *¥"; """ion;. Nea? A? J" 'J' f- 'H^ cook's third voyage, 1776—1780. u: n were fed by circumstance. Inquiry it ?ap. e, had washed lot allowed to )ther had per- on of inferior n, though not ?oulaho came utertaimuent, d already had 3mmunicate a k brown. The re, and found El square and * nee of nearly up with yams I across, from* r feet, to pre- the enclosed •> had reached iten others to f They placed ' on the top of le legs hali". t 'i |se two piles leted them, o of bread- f and a great i i this, with : I [mposed the ck the niai, resembled rtainment. this four len in the end, the wo cham- ^hich was skill and •esthng; iub, made ipponent evening himself, former ; io capital The commodore, in order to be present tlie whole time, dined on-shore. Poulaho sat down with him, but neither ate nor (b-ank, which was owing to the presence of a female, who liad been admitted, at his request, to the dining party, and who, as they were informed in the sequel, wa*. >f superior rank to him- self. This lady had no sooner dined, than she walked up to Poulaho, who appUed his hands Ic her feet ; after which she re- tired. He immediately dipped his fingers into a glass of wine, and then all her attendants paid him obeisance. At liis desire, same of the fire-works were played off in the evening ; but, be ing damaged, they did not answer the expectations of the sjiectators. . . i -j j No more entertainments being expected on either side, and the curiosity of the people being in a great degree satisfied, ^nost of them deserted the place the day after Poulalio's hatva. StiU, however, tJiere were thieves amongst them, and our men had continual instances of their depredations. Some of the officers of both ships, who had made an excursion into the interior mrts of the island, returned on the 22nd of June, in the evening, after an absence of two days. They had taken tlieir muskets and necessanr ammunition with them, besides several small articles of the favourite commodities ; the whole of which the natives had the dexterity to steal from them in the course of their short journey. Inconvenient consequences were likely to have attended this affair : for, when the plundered tra- vellers returned, they employed Omai, without consulting Cap- tain Cook, to complain to the king of the treatment they had re- ceived. He, not knowing how the captain would proceed in this affair, and apprehending that he might again lay him under restraint, set off early tlie next morning, and Feenou followed his exainple ; so that not a chief of any authority remained near them. The captain was offended at this business, and repri- manded Omai for having presumed to interfere in it. This reprimand induced him to endeavour to bring back his friend Feenou, and he succeeded in his negotiation, by assuring him, that no violent measures would be pursued to oblige the natives to return what they had stolen. Trustmg to this declaration, Feenou came back in the evening, and was favourably received. Poulaho also favoured them with his comj) any the next day. Upon this occasion the two chiefs very justly observed to Cap- tain Cook, that whenever any of his people wanted to take an excursion into the country, they ought to be made acquainted with it, that they might order proper people to attend them, t» prevent such outrages. And, had this precaution been taken, it ia not to be doubted, but that a man and his property would have been as safe here as in other parts of the more civiUzed world. Though the captain did not afterwards endeavour to recover the articles taken upon this occasion, the whole of them were returned, dirough the interposition of Feenou, except one 176 ■I ''ii T use it so frequently ; but, on some of our men it operated like spirits, occasioning intoxication, or rather stupefaction. The mourning ceremony being over, tliey left Mooa, and set out on their return to tlie ships. Rowing down the inlet, they met with two canoes returning from iishmg. Poidaho ordered tliem to api)roach him, and took from tliem every fish aiid shell : he after>vards stopped two otiier canoes, and searched them, but found nothing. He gave the crew some of the fish, and the rest were sold by his servants on-board the ship. Proceeding down the inlet, tiiey overtook a large sailing canoe, when every person sat down till they had passed ; even the man who steered, though he could not possibly manage the helm but in a standing posture. Having been informed by Poulaho and others, tliat there was some good water at Onevy, a small island about a league off the mouth of the inlet, tKcy landed there, in order to taste it, and found it to be extremely brackish. This island is quite in a na- tural state, and only frequented as a fishing-plaoe, having nearly the same productions as at Palmerston's Island. When they returned to the ship. Captain Cook waa informed, that every Uung had been quiet during his absence ; not a single theft having been committed ; of which Feenou, and Futtafaihe, tlie king's brother, who had undertaken the management of his coiinti-ymeu in the captain's absence, boasted not a little. This evioces what power tlie chiefs have when they are inclined to exert it, which is not often to be expected, for v/hatever was stolen was generally conveyed to them. The next day six or eight of the natives assaulted some of our people, who were sawing planks ; in consequence of which, they weia fired on by the sentry ; one of them was supposed to be wounded, and three were taken : the latter ^ere confined till night, when they were punished and set at liberty. After this, their behaviour was very decent and circumspect, occasioned, as was imagined, by the man being wounded: for, till this time. they had only heard of the effect of fire-arras, jjut now they felt it. Our men were not mistaken in this conjecture, for Mr. King and Mr. Anderson, in an excursion they took into the country, met with the very man, and found indubitable marks of his havuig be«n wounded with a musket-ball. Nothing worthy of notice happened at the ships for two days ; 180 I :>■■: wi ::*■! ■m ROOK'S r„,a„ vovAo., „,«_„,„_ "« shall therefore fill T ' ^^~^ ^^'>- piece™ sn^"bamhT ^^^^' ^ simple i„sCme7^p;/."^ ^^^ ^^^raik token o^^^^^^ «^ ^vliich is a Jarffe hnl«^ ^'^.''"^^^ *Ws an oven hn^K ^^ ^^ ^^"^ covered with f fonf u"^ '" ^^ earth3 the hn^ ^'^S" Prepared, made red hot hvt^^?^^"* the size of a m«"''"i^^ ^^^'^^^ ^as «ome of thte st^o^"^-^^",^ ^ fi'^ over th^m ff ^.^ ^^^^^ ^^ fhey filled the^^^jjf,^^^^ of the brL^-frife^^" T^P* "P vent their falling ?,?f *"!"!, '.?^nff m a q„anSt If f^ "^^^ ^^^^^ «ie anus Tfwfk "*' ®?^ thrusting a nJiirT.L^'^^^^'^ to pre- The earth wL«L ^^^ ^^ ^d covered w.ff^?"^ "P^" «ome Vb»s effectulu/c St ^"^ "P ^" r«"nd ; and fi'^'^^^-^^^- At V aft t °'"^''" "' ^«i'»™^^^ , measured aImost7jn\i"'l"'^ ^"^ «ome, taken L x *'°'^- ^^^^J /' On theiiXn rPute^r^^^^-^^^^^^^ d"ced, accompanied w,>h^®^^«"«e, the baked hno^* ofbakedyams tL ^ ^^^^ cocoa-iuts an? ^^,^^ P^o- in/. now l7t'u/t7yIT ^^« ?r-P^e^th"tet ^^^^^^s «f split bamboo^ ThoS T^''^^ ^^nner^K L^/ '"^l^ pounds, the wlinll ^'^^"^n the we^ht of ;* ^ *^V"® made «mall part and tesfr^. ^^^^ beforf them* Xn 'J'^^ ^^^^ people sitting roiinwi *^^ ''^^t rnL^ht be An^^?" *^^3^ took a to eat a mS '"^;, J"|.^^»e couIdlX b^l^^^^^^^^^ '^' '»s attendants toward^^L . °? T^^^' *^ey went vW^^K^ "P^" mony was performpri r^.^^^^ ^^ere Poulahn'! ^^^*»>^m and «nuation of the sTmf ; i^^^^.^aw notWnHut Tl"'?"^ ^^^e- inquiring on wh«cT ^''^^"'" "tes, by wav nf . ? h'""^ «f con- informed thatTf^^ "^"^"""t it w^ „ow^,?l ^^"^o^ence. Upon died alvavaoo TatSev l"?^ «"-"h^e wl^^fa^^ they w^re" continue to do so fnl ^ *»ad Practised it ever «1 ^ ^"""i^ «moe 3^hey were entertefnl/- "T^^^^^^e lenffS 'fT^ ^"^ «^«"W dressed like the hoLl i" ^^ ^^^ning S\ ^„^"^; to come, cocoa-nuts, men^^the'^^^ ^^''"^^^ accompanied.^ ^"PP*^^^ ^ves, that of bemg thumped 'v. ccount of Mi*. •nday, the 30th le, as visitors »er Poulaho at og was killed, B head. The harp edge of t by the same een prepared, of which was it, which are lien wrapt iip e, with which leaves to pre- same kind in d upon some mtain-leaves. i oven being uired no fur- ^g about th« oka of about number of ts, making a it time, they mnamooka, ed. t>g was pro- Jral baskets 1 the mom- i^nife made least fifty liey took a of by the ailed upon him and [ning cere- id of con- ;e. Upon ^hey were 3ng since »d should Ito come, supper, i^ams and antity of listurbed lich their mumped cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. 181 I or beat while they are asleep. Two women, who sat by Futta. faihe, performed this operation, which they call tooge tooge, by striking his body and legs with both fists till he fell asleep, and, with some intervals, continued it the whole night. The person being fast asleep, they abate a little of the strength and brisk- ness of the beatmg ; but, if they observe any appearance of his awaking, they resume it. In ,the morning they were informed that Futtafaihe's women relieved each other, and went alteiv nately to sleep. Such a practice as this, in any other country, would be supposed to be destructive of all rest ; but here, it oi:)erates like an opiate, and is a strong proof of what habit may effect. " lliey set out with Futtafaihe the next morning, and walked to the point, down the east-side of the bay. The country all aJong this side appeared to be well cultivated, but not so much en- closed as at Mooa. They found, that in travelling, Futtafaihe exercised a power, which shewed the great authority the princi- pal men are invested with. To one place he sent for fish, to another for yams ; and his orders were as readily obeyed as if he had been absolutely master of all tlie people's property. " They crossed the bay in the evening, to their station, in a canoe procured by Futtafaihe, by exercising his authority in calling to the first that appeared ; ne had also a large hog at this place, and wanted them to accept of a bundle of cloth ; but the boat being small, they objected, and he ordered it to be taken to them the next day." Captain Cook had prolonged his stay at this island on account of the approaching ec .pse ; but, on looking at the micrometer, (on the 2nd of July) he found some accident had happened to it, imd that it was rendered useless till repaired, which could not be done before the time it was intended to be used. They, therefore, got on-board this dav, all the cattle and other animals, except those that were destined to remain. The captain designed to have left a turkey-cock and hen, but two hens )>eing destroyed by accident, and wishing to carry the breed to Oteheite, he reserved the only remaining pair for that purpose. They took up the anchor next day, and moved the ships be- hind Pangimodoo, to be ready for the first favourable wind to take tliem through the narrows. The king, who was of the company this day at dinner. Captain Cook observed, took parti- cular notice of the plates. This occasioned him to make an offer of one, either of pewter, or of earthenware. Poulaho chose the first ; and then began to tell them the several uses to which he intended to apply it ; two of which are so extraordinary, that we cannot omit mentioning them. He said, that whenever he should have occasion to visit any of tlie other islands, he should leave tJiLs plate behind him at Ton^ataboo, as a sort of representative in his absence, that the people might pay it the same obeisance they do to him in person. He was asked what had been usually rfoyed for C!! '"""' """'"'' '^'«-'^««. HV^id that when ant tJf- "^""^^^ boXwa, ^^''-^ ^^ "^^^^ to "e found mif tl "^ ^ninfl: wa-* «f«i/ ^ ? ^^ discover a Hi,..*" ♦he-sun broke on/T^ l''»'^e'« of ^n * fJ'P^e. the ^yZtber fc.-l'"' partly ftom^f*"?' P^rtlrfrom 0,5f "i'^'^d it; « >^'' ^y «ie natives) isX T?"*^ ^'^ Tonrafas i> r"'''' °* ^^^ island PbW thoul^' broadest «??.^ ^-«^«e 1 eirr^^'^^^ ^^"ed IS from east to west tJ ^^ ^^® ^^sl end a^ !]^?"'^^'*^nce, rather Qoral rocks of abnuf • , ^ ''^"th shore ,^' !f '^^ S^^eatest lenX ficnlarh excen* " ^'^^'* ^'^ *^n feet l.;^i ^ -'^*»^^ ^onsisSne beaches tL^* ^" some' few n?!! "^V^ ^^"n natine- ni!^ ^ ^as a shore JikeThn; ^?1'^ ^"^o^'t five o/.^ ^f ""^ ^^e ^andv ate ? and they 3 singular ho- ich he waahed 1 he meant to scover a thief, aief could not sr before him, after which it ^d, one after ouch his foot n touched it, h but by the ch it, his re- ' morning of the weather ine o'clock, n hour, but tlie eclipse, liddle of the • of tlie day, ppointment ncientlyde. ments, and latives hav- wagee, the hips. He ney would not exist nsited it: ed left by d called iiito any |is island. Js called Jj, rather \t length Jting of iperpen- rfandy id:, and is en- |st pro- le only Ipoint, Vable ice of cook's TfflRD VOYAGE, 1776 — 17 80. 183 the country does not exhibit that beautiful kind of landscape, ; produced by a variety of hills and valleySj rivulets and lawns, yet it conveys an idea of the most exuberant fertility. The sur- face^ at a distance, seems entirely clothed with trees of various sizes : but, the tall cocoa-palms raise their tufted heads high above the rest, and are a noble ornament to any country tiiat f)roducefl them. The bogoo, which is a species ot the fig, is tlie argest sized tree upon the island ; and the most common bushes and small trees, on the uncultivated spots, are the pandanw, the *| faitanoo, seversd sorts of hibiscvs, and a few others. . I " The climate of Tongataboo, from the situation towards the i tropic, is more variable than in countries far within that line ; % though that might, perhaps, be occasioned by the season of ;{ the year, which was now the winter solstice. The winds are ge- I nerally from some point between the south and east Tlie I wind, indeed, sometimes veers to the north-east, or even north - il west, but never continues long, nor blows strong from thence, though accompanied with heavy rain, and close sultry weather. The vegetable productions are never so much affected, respecting the foliage, as to shed.it all at once ; but every leaf, as it falLs, is succeeded by another^ which causes the appearance of uni- versal spring. *' A coral rock appears to be the basis of the island^ that being the only sort that presents itself on the shore. There was not the appearance of any other stone, except some small, blue peb- bles about the ^«r^oo^a«, and the smooth, black stone of which the natives make their hatchets ; and these have, perhaps, been ))rought from other islands in the neighbourhood. Though in many places the coral projects \bove the surface ; the soil is, in most parts, of a considerable oeptL In cultivated places, it is generally of a loose, black colour, seemingly produced by the rotten vegetables. The principal of the cultivated fruits in this island are plantains, of which they have fifteen varieties ; the jambuu, and the eevee ; the latter being a kind of plum ; and vast quantities of shaddocks, as often found in a natural state as planted. Of yams there are two sorts ; one black, and so large, as to weigh from twenty to thirty pounds ; the other white and long, seldom exceeding a pound in weight. There is a large root called kappe ; another like our white potatoes, called maw.- haJia ; the taro, and ikejeejee, " Tliey have vast numbers of cocoft-nut trees, and three other sorts of palms. One is called beeoOy growing almost as high a« tlie cocoa-tree, and having very large leaves plaited like a fan. Tlie other is a kind of cabbage-tree, much resembling the cocoa, but rather thicker. A third sort is called ongo-ongo ,* it seldom grows higher tlian five or six feet. Plenty af excellent sugar- cane is cultivated here ; also gourds, bamboo, turmeric^ and a species of fig, called mattee ; but the catalogue of uncultivated plants is too large to be enumerated. There are no quadrupuU II 184 8:rey colour; rWaefc""- '^* '^« -"" ^PkL i?""^ *« o4«r coloured coote,^Sr«lK ■'[,"'* redcfef ""' "f 1 ™™8:«ted, a small smUloWTiuid ,5. ''*''' "''''"'ns; two snrf^ ' f '3''«^« "«kt " ' ^-^ "1* •'""ks seen „/ A '' '""^ »<" pi«on« «f «y^«Wim ; P^^VS^:.V^^^'^t''^.tr&*y ^ 'e. than » bonnetos/eels ml,i P'»Tot.fish, Mm K " •*"f^ '"'^ "n«ff ' &^and several so^ff ' i"^^ <^«"oiw star-fclf «!!!' ^''- ^^ ^. ^ough Captain CootT"^^-" ' ^'^ ^^^'-^^h. went dav-liffht fT^; ^^^^ ^as now reaHv #« -i , [fin* oWo t^.tT'' '^^ow/'ke ™'^''"'" ™ffi- therefore, under a ni ®"V, ^e evening florwl%i"^^'^n& flood ^ should be fortL **^''^ ^^ ^aitinoF twn ^T ^^*^- He wT f e/ay ^ave the offi^ ^^^^'^ ^« K 1 Ja^L'; ^^^J "^ solemnity, to whiVh A? ^ opportunity to L J?^°^ ^"^^ This repairiio Mooa oS S^\,h «^d all the peoilt l-'^'"^*^ ^^^ to hibite^SeveraJ ?5^ ^^. where the s5! ^ v^^^^^^sequence .'«F: KS^dlr" ^^^'^ followed fe"'*7.^^ t« be^ "utiated into oert^l^'*'^^^ ^em, thS ?;„ "" ^« »ext morn ^ithhisfafhe^^'^.P^vJe^es; one Xhi^l,'''" ^^s now to be eigh^ o'clock ii S^ ^r -'^^ i^d no^Srto'I'^' "^"i ^^ ^4 iound the king"^a,'^°"^'"8> they amVed at m!?''^"^; ^bouf within a small diri? number o/ attenrfw ^^°*- ^^^jre thev preparing a bowl^J/'^^^osure. They wp^°^ ^'^""S before hW they wen! to p^j fe ; but, as thTwrnot liouTf ^ ^''^^^^ ^" ' to some of their fflr^^irolre ivls of a large •e parrots, and e pirush kind, ■bird we could or the want of long the other a variegated, large violet- r fly-catchers ; ►f water-fowl, Is ; blue and es of a leaden 'd plover, ibe, are sea- set long, with 8, and centi- ong, and two itterilies, and aking, in the is less than are mullets, 'ts, albicores, , rays, a sort he reefe and e, indented sort ; a gi- &c. Abo [S, cray-fish, jid not suffi- ing flood He was, ays, unless ^id This it a public |ich was to sequence to be ex- \xt moni- tiow to be [of eating About [ere they )re him, lusied in lur men, lobserve cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. 185 was i what preparations were making for the ceremony, which soon expected to begin. About ten o'clock, the people assembled in a large area before the maiaee, or great house. At the end of a road, o})ening into this area, stood several men with spears and clubs, incessantly reciting short sentences, in mournful accents, which conveyed an idea of distress. This was continued about an hour, during which time, many people came down the road, each having a yam tied to the middle of a i)ole, which they laid down before those who continued repeating the sentences. At length the king and prince arrived, and seated themselves upon the area ; and our officers were requested to sit down by them, to take ofl" tlieir hats, and to untie their hair. The bearers of the yams having all entered, each pole was taken up between two men, who carried it over their shoulders: they afterwards formed themselves into two companies, of ten or twelve each, and marched across the place with a rapid pace, each company headed by a man who had a club or spear, and defended on the right, by several others, armed with diflerent weapons. About two hundred and fifty persons walked in the procession, which was closed by a man carrving on a perch a living pigeon. Omai was desired by Cfaptain Cook to ask the chief where the yams were to be carried with so much solemnity ; but he seemed unwilling to give the information he required : some of our men therefore, followed the procession, seemingly contrary to his in- clination. They stopped before the morai ox Jiatooka of one house standing upon a mount, about a quarter of a mile from where they first assembled. Here they deposited the yams, and gathered them into bundles; but for what purpose could not possibly be learnt. The presence of our men seeming to give them offence or uneasiness, they quitted them, and returned to Poulaho, who advised them to amuse themselves by walkmg about, as nothing would be 'done for a considerable time : the fear of losing the sight of any part of the ceremony, however, prevented them being long absent. When they returned to the king, he desired Captain Cook to order the boat's crew not to presume to stir from the boat, for every thing would, very soon, be taboo ; and if any of our people, or of their own, should be seen walk- ing about, they would certamly be knocked down with ^bs ; nay mateed, that is, killed. He also informed them, thdH^ey could not be present at the ceremony ; but should be plalM in such a situation as to be able to see every thing that pasled. The dress of our men was particularly objected to, and they were told, that to qualify them to be present, they must be naked as low as the breast, and their hats taken off, and their hair un- tied. Omai readily agreed to conform to these requisites, and immediately began to strip ; but other objections were then started, and he was excluded equally with the rest. Not relishing tliis restriction, the Captain, stole out, to see '« ^W '"'f Hi li ^HI IS' HH^B ' IP B^M : W 186 COOK. ,,,,^^^ ,^^^__^^^^^ ^^hat might now bp • / ^^'*'=^ '^^^C-irgo. ^oing towards^e ;^^^i?*'«"^ «« .inches W tfe^^^ ^wo or a«d was frequeX?frnnlw?^P^" ^ook took thl ""^^ ^'^'^ urged^^Tgo^btV'^i^ «i«i«ff before it'lf^^r ^^'^^^* «^ ^^^e ^wence ofareS I?"* "°* knowing wha/^iuf Z*"*^ strongly ^ho carried Jk!^^ ^^ complied. AJh^A T^^^ ^^ *he consZ PlPOHe; but w^ so na^rr^.^ ^>^ '"a^^fa^rou^S'^? '^' > nad no opportiinifv^?^?^'^ observed bv fhl "^ ^^r this Jo shake off J&%^^^^^ hw desigS in^e^'^t' '"^^ ^^^ ^^e '^ad parted from the iT^ ^^ ''^^rned to the W ''"• ^[* ^^^^er ««condtime-h.?fl • ."^^ «»d afterwards T''^'^' ^^^ere he '»addou£r"'J^:'r-^°%meti^^^^ an escape a attention tTthem^lfK '"'^^^^ions to w^UT ^'^J.'^en/who ^«'^<>>t« or Cm- bi^ '^'i:? ^thin sigTt 1^^^^ ?^ P^id „o meant to represent fhl' i® *^^^efore probahl^^K /2^^^"^^ to not permitted to fnl? ^T^^ ^^ saw himl-mV.f ^f ^our men area of the worn?. ' °5^>« ^nd of the rZS . ^''^'^ P««P^e At length, aS; f?^ ^^'^'^^ ^«re continSfll?""^? '"*? ^^^ and brlnche7 nr if ^ "^^""^ «ach cairvfn?! ^ J°'""]«^ them. appeared^^olT ma^ ^^/¥ ,^«^oa-nu?t?ef Tl '"^^ H''' Old man seated himself in 51' ^ 5°°" ^ ^^^ "> me road, and pro- ■1780. people, however ^J^dto attend thi Jojes, about four ^- fastened two or 1 hese men were "le same road r out tadoo, how! e in sight of the ;af now strongly ^t be the con!/ '^ed, that tliose guessing, from ? beyond it he round for this e men that he '^on. In order r/«ce, where he ' an escape a iree men, who . f*e paid no fg a principal f people were J Pa^s by the ^t- Seeing W from tJie -a by severaJ ■A increasing ^g posture, f> every pair •rshoulders. ' rastened to t they were idmost man ofthepoJe, lat hung to proceeded, pairs, and h our men they were conducted he area of morning, ed people r into the J^g them, ill poles, ajs they nd pro- I ■( m cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. 187 i) V CO # nounced a long oration in a serious, msyestic tone. He then retired, and the others advancing to the middle of the area, began to erect a small shed or hut ; employing, for that jiurpose, the materials already mentioned. Their work, being finished, they all squatted down for a moment before it, then rose up, and joined the rest of the company. Poulaho's son arrived soon ai'ter, preceded by four or hve men : after them appeared about twelve or fourteen women of the first rank, advancuig slowly in pairs, each pair carrying between them a narrow piece of white cloth, about two or three yards in length. They approached the prince, squatted dovvn before him, and wrapped some of the pieces ol'the doth round liis body ; they then rose up, and retired in the same oi'der^ to some distance on his left, where they seated themselves. Poulaho now made his appearance, preceded by four men, walking two and two abreast, and sat down on his son's left hand, at a small distance from him. The young prince then quitted his first position, and seated himself under the shed, with his attendants ; many others placed themselves on the grass before this royal canopy. The prince sat facing tlie people, with his back to the morai. Three companies of about ten or a dozen men in each, started up from among tlie crowd, soon after each otlier, and running hastily to the opposite side sat down for a few seconds ; and then retomed, in the same manner to their former stations. To them suc- ceeded two men, each having a small green branch in his hand, who rose and advanced towards the prince, sitting down for a few seconds, three different times rs they approached; and retired in the same manner inclining their branches to each other as tiiey sat: afterwards two others repeated the same ceremony. The grand procession, which marched from the other morai, now began to come in. As they entered the area, they pro- ceeded to the right of tlie shed, and having prostrated them- selves on the grass, deposited their pretended, heavy burthens, (the poles) and faced round to the prince. They then rose up, and retired in tlie same order, closing their hands with the most serious aspect, and seated themselves along the front of the area. While this niunerous band were entering and depositing their poles, three men, who sat with the prince, continued pronoun- cing separate sentences, in a mournful, melancholy tone. A profound silence then ensued for a short time, after wiiich a man, who sat in the front of the area, began a kind of oration, during which at several different times, he broke one of the poles which had been brought in. Having concluded his oration, the people sitting before the shed, separated, to make a lane, through which the prince and his attendants passed^ and fiie assembly closed. Satisfied with what they had already seen, some of the party now returned to the ships; but Captain Cook, and some more :•■ t' I 188 'Hill ..remained «.«.._ '^^''^ of ""— ...Ji. 0. )ncluflion of the bllowing. ^rhe Je who walked the crowd had nd found that, cks were tied, ed as only arti- ot ready about and drank so ed with a suffi. :ht in the same Poulaho him- Q, one of those n, and sitting ion which had ? gently with adding to his e prince, who Er;.for he did his own, at kd him with a j», and an old es employed >nged to his ^g, who had of old men. and yams, f which fell "ly the kava afterwards '^hom were fn it. R€- d hut, H-ith put eleven land again ^he prince, [ere was a [it, and he id of his then con- about a . Here k a pre- :tured in captain served cook's third voyage, 177C — 1780. 189 up, and consisted of two pigs and some yams. The drowsy monarch was roused topartake of what he had apnointed for their entertainment. Two mullets, and some shell fish, were introduced, as if intended for liis own separate portion, which he i added to their fare, sat down with them, and made a very hearty f meal. Dinner being over, our ofiicers were informed that tKe * ceremony would soon begin, and were strictly enjoined not to i venture out : the commodore had resolved, however, to peep no I longer from behind the curtain, but, if possible to mix with the * actors themselves. With this view he walkea toward the morai, die scene of the solemnity : he was frequently desired to return, I but he paid no regard to the admonitions he received, and was f nermitted to pass on : when arrived at the morai, he saw a num- ' ber of men seated on tlie side of the area : a few were also sitting on the opposite side, and two men in the middle, with their ,; faces turned to the morai. When Captain Cook had got into the ' midst of the first company, he was desired to sit down, which he accordingly did : where he sat there was lying a number of small bimdles, composed of cocoa-nut-leaves, and fastened to sticks made into the form of hand-barrows. All the information lie cxnild get concerning them wais, that they were taboo^ and from time to time, one or another of the company turned to those who were coming to join them, and made a short speech, in which it was remarked, that the word arekee (king) was generally men- tioned. Something was said by one man that produced loud bursts of laughter from all around ; others of the speakers were jdso much applauded. The captain was frequently desired to leave the place ; but, at length, finding him deterniined to stay, they requested him to uncover his shoulders as theirs were : this he readily complied with, and tlien they no longer seemed uneasy at his presence. The prince, the women, and the king at length appeared, as they had done the preceding day : the prince being placed un- der tlie shed, two men, each with a piece of mat, came, repeat- ing something in a very serious strain, and put them about him : tlie people now began their operations, and different companies ran backward and forward across the area, as in the former day : soon after, the two men in the middle of the area, made a short speech, and then the whole company rose up, and placed themselves before the shed in which the prince and three or four men were seated. One of the company, who seemed very de- sirous of obliging Captain Cook, procured him such a situation, that if he could have made use of his eyes, nothing could have escaped him; but it was necessary to have a demure coun" tenance and downcast looks. The procession soon after arrived, as on the preceding day ; a pole, with a cocoa-nut leaf plaited round the middle of it, be- ing carried on the shoulders of every two persons, these were deposited with the same cerimonies as on the day before : after m F * ' 190 ■ :"ii I ROOK'S TH,Hovov.oE.,7rfr-„8o ■ 'Mg^ - ■ ' '-'ill * ■"if prince's nVhJ t * 7®*'® brought An 'i i^" P^^^ecJ at the enw each oVwhfch ^ "i?^ ^'t'^out the shed l'' '"f^"^^ho «at onS prayer: fi,5^„^^^Pt in h> hani 71^^^;^^^^ the haZt f ^e same kind of ^^^tf ««/de, he called fo"^„^«J«rt ^P^ech o i!?.fi Srone throue-hfCr^u''. '^^ Proceeded n f^^"^*'^'"' ^epeatin. t^ii this time" fad in 1^ ' T'^^^r o ' basLf ' /""""^^^ til] 1>^ seated on the left Z *^.^"",*^ands ^reen brnn i,*'^«'»en, who presented to them .^!i^^^ the fisfio^" branches, and we^' being presented, a^ii^in^'*^^ second on thei wf^^t^^'^'' t/ie other two, ende^oured M ' •^"Ht, who was seSl A" l**-'^^ *^t the same tim*> • ... ""^ed to seize it as riiA i seated behind a' «ie close of tL |„!?'°"' '"d been placed n^' .f ?"'«« car. I'-.d tSTf bie he wnri"?-* ^^^J:s r„^4s ^"=jn/ about. Tlie !^„ "°f *»<=«"« -dbvS ""' '" '""fc be- Md (fom that momenHT ''*'' "''«' t"™edii. fe '^rS?'"" fr»m "■'* his father ra"d« ?• "''"' Jdmitted to Zh *" *« '«<"«'; pear them/they St f \"^^^ ^^ke si„%"# ^^'^J^^^t a.s they "^S a singfe step ?^seve J^^ ^^'^aJking^.'^g- ^ ^^f" ^^ey caul dmtely started fromtht^l '"^"^ ^rmed ^th iL^^.^f ^^^^n^- buttheyinstantlyradeoffT^^ and ran towards ?L'*'"^'^ ''^^^^ shoulders; the Se^ « 5 ^'^i"^ thrown dm^l^ ?^'^ ^^«tors, "lost unmerci^Cr^l^^^^^ ^^^ poJes an!? ?^Hes from their '^^ off, S^y^Zchllt^^^ ^theirplaces lte"«^ beat them ^'"'"^^ "««d here in ^;stIIg^^^^^^^ '^ ^^ ""5 , and m a short i SI th it th th. im tal to hui ind tict nat Th< and pati pre.< neni ther rorp told he H that cerei I of men mHo are generally turd procession aced at the end who sat on (he 1 the baskets; jhort speech or ther, repeating manner till he two men, who, les, and were B as they were t fish" they laid left : the third seated behind the other two I for; but the ftjituation, ^»ot the fish wag B laid on the possession of t. Upon this Q a low voice iad now done ' atend for the , ikets and fish f he poles car- the ground: speaking or leing given, their backs to look be- iction from the morai, ir of eating 'esented to J semicircle (een them ; two, bear- Is as they |hey came |t advanc- I.S, jiiime- visitors, rom their 3at them as they a short I cook's third voyage, ir7fi — 1780. 11)1 time, some lusty fellows came from the same quarter, repeating the challenge as they approached. These were resisted by a company, who arrived at that instant from the opposite siofe ; both parties, however, returned to their own quarter, after hav- ing paraded about the area for some minutes: afterwards, for the snace of half an hour, wrestling and boxing-matches succeeded. Speeches were then delivere(l by two men, who seated them- selves before the prince, with which the solemnity ended, and the whole assembly broke up. In vain did they endeavour to find out the purport of the solemnity called natche: all the answer thev received to their inquiries, was a taboo ; which, as has been already observed, is applied to many things. There was a mysterious solemnity in the whole transaction ; and from the manner of performing it, as well as the place where it was performed, it \>'as evident that there >vas a mixture of religion in the institution. Upon no other occasion had they regarded their dress and deportment ; but now it was required that their hair should flow aoout their shoulders ; that they should be uncovered to the waist ; sit cross- legged ; and have their hands locked together. It should be ob- served also, that none but the chief people, and those who were concerned in the ceremony, were adraitted to assist in the celebra- tion of it. All these circumstances evidently pointed out, that they supposed themselves acting under the inspection of a Su- preme Being upon this occasion. From the above account of the present natche, it may be con- sidered as merely figurative. The few yams wliich were seen the first day, could not l)0 meant as a general contribution ; and it was intimated to them, that they were a portion consecrated to the Otooa, or Divinity. They were, however, informed, that in the space of three months, there would be represented a more important solemnity ; on which occasion, the tribute of Tonga- taboo, Hapaee, Vavaoo, and all the other islands would be brought to the chief, and more awfully confirmed, by sacrificing ten human victims frorn amongst the people. A horrid solemnity indeed ! On inquiring into the occasion of so barbarous a prac- tice, they were informed, that it was a necessary part of tlie* natche I and that, if omitted, the Deity would destroy their king. The day was far spent before the breaking up of the assembly ; and as they were at some distance from the ships, they were im- patient to set out from Mooa. Taking leave of Poulaho, he pressed them earnestly to stay till the next day, in order to be pre- sent at a funeral ceremony. The wife of Mareewagee, his mo- ther-in-law, had lately died ; and, on account of the natchp., her corpse had been carried on-board a canoe in the lagoon, Poulaho told Captain Cook, that when he had paid the last offices to her, he would attend him to Eooa ; but if he did not choose to wait, that he would follow him thither : he would gladly have seen this ceremony, had not the tide been now favourable. The vrind too. 10") M .:|-: COOK'S TillUD VOYAGE, 17^6-1780. moment after theTrpal '' 'V ¥^^^ "measure, deserted ^ extremely „,ef«I. ""«' I*''*' country, the horses St' food at «rr.re.S- i?^^tea^traS^r£ cable; conseq«e„tnipi ^ u^"^* ^^ceeds thelLt^^i''- 0. ite and settled ; lies would con- situation, that a time to stay, he did not im- xt da^: upon eir ships about )re was attend- )ull, and other I be 6'afer there e, deserted the I left with their English sows ; }y supposing, I, which IS but uck and a doe, hey sailed. If will be great ; horses will be ght o'clock in h the channel, onooafai: th« ling up to the le west. This, •als before it, ides these dis- length of a cept close t« where a ship n, therefore, |to an anchor of making Ito be absent ] dangerous a 1^0 tides, till \ing jn inch, iastern tide, [eastward in ible. Con- dark, they |ve fathoms' stern, but id did not the next o'clock at stretched it) where cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. 193 !. ' they anchored, about eight the next morning, in forty fathoms' water ; being nearly the same place where the captain took his station in 1773, when he named it English Road. As soon as they had anchored, Taool'a, the chief, and several of the natives visited them on-board, and seemed rejoiced at their arrival. This Taoofa had been Captain Cook's Tai/o when he was here in 1773, and therefore they were not strangers to each other. The captain accompanied him on-shore jn search of fresh water, the procuring of which was the chief object that brought him to Eooa; he had heard at Tongataboo of a stream here, which ran from the hills into the sea ; but this was nnt the case at present. H^ was conducted to a brackish spring, among rocks, between low and high water mark. When the natives perceived that they did not approve of this, they were shewn a little way into the is- land, where, in a deep chasm, they found some excellent water ; which, though attended with some trouble, might be conveyed to the shore, by means of spouts or troughs that could be pro- vided for that purpose ; but, rather than undertake that tedious task, the captain contented himself with the supply the ships had received at Tongataboo. Before be returned on-board he l egan a traffic for hogs and yams ; of the former, they could not procure many ; but, of the latter, plenty. At this island they landed the rams and two ewefs, of the Cape of Good Hope breed, and committed them to tlie care of Taoofa, who seemed delighted with his charge : it was, perhaps, a fortunate circumstance that Mareewagee, to whom they had been given, as before related, shghted the pre- sent; as Eooa had no dogs upon it, at present, it seemed to be a titter place for the rearing otsheep than Tongataboo. V/hile lying at anchor, this island had a very different aspect from any that they had lately seen, and formed a most pleasing landscape. It is the highest of any they had seen since they left New Zealand ; and from its top, which appears to be almost flat, declines g^;.*- dually toward the sea. The other isles which form this cluster being level, the eye cannot discover any thing except the trees that cover them ; but here the land rising gently upwards, pre- :;enis an extensive prospect, where groves of trt>as, in beaucifui disorder, are interspersed at irregular distances. Near the shore it is quite shaded with a variety of trees, among which are erected the habitations of the natives ; and to the right of where they wei*e stationed was one of the most extensive groves of cocoa-palms they had ever seen. In the afternoon of the i3th, a party of tliem ascended the highest part of the island, a little to the right of the ships, to have a perfect view of the c >untry. Having advanced about half-way up, they crosses; a deep valley, the bottom and sides of which were clothed with trees : they found, plenty of coral till they approached the summits of the highest hills ; the soil near the top is, in general, a reddish clay, wiiich, in many places, is very deep. On the most elevated part K 9 'i 11 ? if 1 5 : i\ J^l r'M iw BOOK'S TmHB VOVACE, ,?r6- which, they were toM ' ''^'"'' « mile louir^t, '^""8 «'' ' copious; theval»l J- ' "" "I'o the sea «-k ,l™' « ^'ream supposed haf „t„V^^''rf ^«» r '«■• i»^vS"sm«» f'^' ^^'^ StiS^J./ JIl pSt^L•=:a'«,v^w of the whole ™es, with cri«f • "f y were now iiil„ souft-east side , being adorned wTthtfe if .''" ""• *« noX„^« ^«?; »» that form a most deiiehtfn I.„5' ''^**''' •nterniixed wW, ^'r'.'^Vk, Captain Coofc^ ,"ii'"'!'»™Pe in every ST/p'*-"?''""'' Wedtheplet-^i^^^T"? this enchant^^r^,:!!"; While' the same eminent iS 1 J" ?°™e tuhire navw S '"^?*' ''e en. brought bythe s1^bs1;f't*f« meadows s' I „ ".8ht,fmm and fern-tree. ^ '"^^^^ » «Pecies of acrostiJnf t /""'''"<'« AH, or most of th^ lo ^ ' n^elaa^^rm, esteemed by Peenon « ^"'^^^^"^ence. Omii tt^'^'^ ^^^n^e^ offer of being annSpW «fny others; vv^ii^\''J^^^^^h tmueamong^ther. innt ^^'^^«^ th,VisTand^?f*^^ ''i^ ''^^ tile offer haH T ' .^V^ ^® seemed inrlSV \" .' ^^uH .; Cook- thnul^*' "^* been advised fnVi^^® *« have ar-. . K^AJtr- '"^"^Xro"; ''"'^'-rc. that . »k«ll, and atrZd,"]? I"'?'.^ with a dub ?,!,? P.H '^M had -an whr,^^tTVbi" "" »^«''"«S t^ati^r jS'h '"" "' I ). ed by a wall of liat this mount and that they called Etchee, h they had seen as a spring of own, a stream, the raiTis were lall holes ; and of the whole outh-east side, lot far distant, le sea ; so that st siOe, which, ; :h plantations, view. While ""fpect, he en- light, from ca with cattle, completion of her considera. had not been lants common *, melask/ma, to the chiefs or vassals to neighbour- khiefs seemed \6 was mu«h ped with ^'^ wouF , «• jive ac<"< by Captdj. |o better for jard that a f:raded, had ictured his istrument : to a neigh- ., C- de- inl^ innd, Tlth tJ TvO- lever, that lother per- liscovered ifldelities. cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. 195 ct But the female sinner has a much milder punishment for her misdemeanor, only receiving a remonstrance, and a very slight beating. Captain Cook, the next morning, planted a pine-apple, and sowed the seeds of meuns, and other articles, in the chief's plan- tation. He had reason, indeed, to suppose, that his endeavours of this kind would i; ot be fruitless ; for a dish of turnips was this daj' served up at his dinner, which was the produce of the seeds he had left here in 1773. The captain having fixed upon the 15th for sailing, Taoofa pressed him to stay a little longer, in or- der to receive a present which he had prepared for him ; his en- treaties, together with the daily expectation of receiving a visit from some of his friends at Tongataboo, induced him to defer his departure ; the next day he received from the chief, the pre- sent, consisting of two little heaps ofyams, and a quantity of fruit, which seemed to be collected by contribution, as at the other isles. On this occasion the greatest part of the inhabitants of the island had assembled, and, as our crews had many times expe- rienced on such numerous meetings among their neighbounng islanders, it gave no small trouble to prevent their pilfering. Cudgelling, wrestling, and boxing, were exhibited for their enter- tainment ; and in the latter, combatants of both sexes engaged ; the diversions were intended to have been finished with the bomai, or night-dance ; but an accident happened that either put a total stop to it, or at least prevented their staying on-shore to see it. One of our people was surrounded b^' tAventy or thirty of the natives, some of whom knocked him down, stripped him, and carried '^f all his clothes ; hearing of this, the commodore seized two canoes and a large hog, and insisted on the chief's not only causing the clothes to be restored, but also the offenders being delivered up to him. Taoofa seemed greatly concerned at what had happened, and took the necessary steps to satisfy him : the people who were assembled were also so alarmed at this af- fair, that most of them immediately fled ; however, when they were informed that the captain meant to take no other measures to revenge the insult, they returned. One of the delinquents was soon delivered up to him, and a shirt and a pair of trowsers re- stored ; the remainder of the stolen goods not coming in before the evening, the commodore was obliged to leave them, in order to go on-board ; the sea running so high, that it was extremely dif- ficult for the boats to get out of the creek even with day-light, and would be attended with much more danger in the dark ; he came ashore again the next morning, bringing with him a present for Taoofa, in return for what he had received from him. Being early, there were but few people at the landing-place, and even those few not without their fears and apprehensions ; but, on the captain desiring Omai to assure them that tliey diid not mean to injure them, and having restored the canoes, and released the of- fender, who had been delivered up to him, they resumed their usual K2 • i '^ 190 cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. :MHi m ii ijl: cheerfulness, and a large circle was presently formed, in whicit the chief and the principal men of the island took their respecthe places. Tlie remainder of the clothes were at length brought in, but, having been torn oif the man's back by pieces, they were not thought worth carrying on-board. Taooia shared the present he had received with three or four other chiefs, reserving a small part only for himself. This donation so far exceeded their expecta- tion, that a venerable old chief told the captain, they were not deserving of it, considering how little he had received from them, and the ill treatment one of his people had met with. Captain Cook continued with them till they had emptied their bowl of /cava ,' and then, after paying for the hog, which he had taken the day before, returned on-board, in company with Taoofa, and one of Poulaho's servants, by whom he sent a piece of bar- iron, as a parting mark of his esteem for that chief, that being as '"t)"able a present as any he could possibly make. •ey weighed soon after, and with a ught breeze at south- eat ^ stood out to sea, when Taoofa, and some other natives left tiiem; the cable had been much injured by the rocks, and besides this, they experienced that a most astonishing swell rolls in there from the south-west. Presently they observed a sailing canoe entering the creek before which they had anchored their ships. A few hours after, a small canoe, conducted by four men, came off to them, for having but very little wind, they were still at no considerable distance from the land. They were informed by those men, that the sailing canoe which they had seen arrive, hacl brought directions to the people of Eooa to furnish them with hogs ; and that the king and the other chiefs would be with them in the space of two or three days. They requested, therefore, that they would return to their former station. There was no reason to doubt the truth of this information; but being now clear of the land, it was not a sufficient inducement to bring them back ; especially as they had already a sufficient stock of provisions to last them during their passage to Otaheite. Besides Taoofa 's present, they received a large quantity of yams at Eooa, in exchange for nails, &c. and added considerably to their sup- ply of hogs : finding that they would not return, these people lei't them in the evening, as did some others, who had come ofl in two canoes, with cocoa-nuts and shaddocks, to barter for what they could get ; their eagerness to possess more commodities, in- ducing them to follow the ships out to sea, and to continue their intercourse with them to the last moment. Our voyagers had now taken leave of the Friendly Islands and their inhabitants, after a cordial intercourse with the latter for between two and three montlis ; some difterences, indeed, occasionally happened, on account of their natural propensity to thieving, though too frequently encouraged by the neghgenoies and inattention of our people. These diflerences, however, rraedj in whicit their respectiV e •ought in, but, they were not the present he ng a small part i their expecta- they were not i^ed from them, mth. Captain their bowl of J had taken the I Taoofa, and piece of bar- ■y that being as eeze at soutli- ler natives left i, and besides i rolls in there sailing canoe !d their ships. ur men, came sre still at no informed bv ;n arrive, had sh them with be with them i, therefore, iere was no being now ent to bring nt stock of jite. Besides ams at Eooa, o their sup- hese people ad come ofl ter for what nodities, in- ntinue their dly Islands th the latter es, indeed, opensity to eghgenoies however, cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. 197 were never attended with any fatfil consequences, and few belonging to tlie ships parted from tlieir Aiends without some regret. The time employed among the natives of the Friendly Islands," says Captain Cook, " was not thrown away. We ex- ]>ended very little of our sea-provisions ; subsisting, in general, upon the produce of the islands while we staid ; and carrying away with us a quantity of refreshments sufficient to last till our arrival at another station, where we could depend upon a fresh supijly. I was not sorry, besides, to have had an opportunity of bettering the condition of these good people, by leaving se- veral very useful animals among them ; and at the same time, those designed for Otaheite, received fresh strength in the pas- tures of Tongataboo. Upon the whole, therefore, the advantages we received by touching here, were very great ; and 1 had the additional satisfaction to reflect, that the;^ were received without retarding one moment the prosecution of the great object of our voyage ; the season for proceeding to tlie north, being, as ha« been already observed, lost, before! took the resolution of bear- ing away from these islands." Iron tools are the best articles for traffic here. Axes, hatcliets, nails of all sizes, knives, rasps, and^les, are much demanded. Red cloth, white and coloured linen, looKing-glasses and beads, are also in great estimation ; but of the latter, those which, are blue are preferred to all others, especially to the white ones. A hog might at any time be purchased for a string of large blue beads ; it should, nevertheless, be observed, that articles merely ornamental, may be highly esteemed at one time, and disre- gjtfded at another. On their first arrival at Annamooka, the people were unwilling to take them in exchange for fruit, but when Feenou arrived, his approbation of them brought them into vogue, and stamped them with the value above-mentioned. In return for the commodities just enumerated, all the refresh- ments that the islands produce may be procured. The yams pro- duced by the Friendly Islands are excellent, and when grown to perfection, preserve well at sea : but their pork, plantains, and bread-fruit, are inferior in quality to the same articles at Otalieite Good water is scarce in these islands, and may be found, in deed, in all of them, but not to serve the purposes of navigators for either the situations are too inconvenient, or the quantities too inconsiderable, although, whilst they lay at anchor under Kotoo, they were informed tliat there was a stream of water at Kao, which ran from the mountains into the sea, on the south- weat side of the island. The Friendly Islands include not only the group > Hapaee, but also those which have been discovered to the north, nearly under the same meridian, as well as some others under tlie do- minion of Tongataboo, which is the capital, and seat of govern- ment : this archipelago is very extensive. One of th^ natives -;i ■1 ?:' •'('i 198 cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. y < ii I'-'i .,.r; ? ri 1;' enumerated one hundred and fifty islands, and Mr. ^i.nder8on procured all their names. Sixty-one of them are marked upon the chart of the Friendly Islands, and upon the sketch of the harbour of Tongataboo ; Kei)pel's and Boscawen's Islands, two of Captain Wallis's discoveries in 1765, are doubtless compre- hended in Mr. Anderson's list ; but the most considerable of all the islands that they heard of in this neighbourhood, are Hamoa, Vavaoo, and Feejee ; each of which is larger than Tongataboo, but it does not appear that any European has ever yet seen any one of them. Hamoa lies two days' sail north-west from Vavaoo. It is said to be the largest of all their islands ; affords harbours and good water, and produces, in abundance, all the articles of refresh- ment that are found at the places visited. Poulaho frequently resides upon this island ; and the people here are in high esti- mation at Tongataboo. Feejee lies in the direction of north* west-by-west, about three days' sail from Tongataboo. It abounds with hogs, dogs, fowls, and such fruits and roots as are to be found in any of the others, and is much larger than Tongataboo ; but not subject to its dominion as the other islands of the archi< pelago are. — Feejee and Tongataboo often engage in war against each other ^ and the inhabitants of the latter are often so much afraid of this enemy, that they bend the body forward, and cover the face with their hands, to express the sense of their own in- feriority to the Feejee men. This is, indeed, no matter of sur- prise, for those of Feejee have rendered themselves formidable by their dexterity in the use of bows and slings ; but more so, by the savage practice of eating such of their enemies as they kill in battle. li has been insisted on, that extreme hunger first occasioned men to feed on human flesh ; but where could be the induce- ment for the Feejee people to continue the practice in the midst of plenty? It is held in detestation by the inhabitants of Ton- gataboo, who seem^ to cultivate the friendship of their savage neighbours of Feejee through fear; though they occasionally venture to skirmiish with them on their own territory, and carry off large quantities of red feathers as trophies. When a pro- found peace reigns between the two islands, they have fre- quent intercourse together; though it is probable they have not been long known to each other ; or, it might be supposed tiiat Tangataboo, and its neighbouring islands, would, before thi^ time, have been supplied with a breed of dogs which are numerous at Feejee, and were not brought to Tongataboo when Captain Cook first visited it in 1773. The colour of the natives of Feejee was, at least, a shade darker llian that of the inhabitants of the other Friendly Islands : one of the natives of Feejee, had his left ear slit, and the lobe so stretched, that it almost extended to his shoulder ; which singu- larity had been observed by Captain Cook at other islands of cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. 199 Mr. ;i.nder8on ! marked upon sketch of the I's Islands, two btless compre- siderable of all »d, are Hamoa^ 1 Tongataboo, T yet seen any aoo. It is said ours and good les of refresh- aho frequently J in high esti- !tion of north. 30. It abounds I as are to be Tongataboo ; s of the archi. in war against )ften so much I ird, and cover ! their own in- matter of sur- t^s formidable but more so, mies as they it occasioned the induce- in the midst ants of Ton- heir savage occasionally > and carry hen a pro- ^ have fre- they have |e supposed luld, before S which are [aboo when ide darker mds: one lobe 80 [ich singu- 1 islands of the South Sea, during his second voyage. The Feejee men were much reverenced here, not only on account of their power and cruelty in war, but also for their ingenuitv : for they greatly excel the inhabitants of Tongataboo in workmanship. Specimens were shewn our people of their clubs and spears, which were in- geniously carved; they were also shewn some of their beautifulljr chequered cloth, variegated mats, earthen pots, and other arti- cles, all of which displayed a superiority in the execution. Feejee, as has been already mentioned, is three days' sail from Tongataboo ; these people having no other method of discovering the distance from island to islaiid, but by mentioning the time required for the voyage in one of their canoes. That this might be ascertained with precision. Captain Cook sailed in one of their canoes, and, by repeated trials with the log, found that she went, close hauled, in a gentle gale, seven miles in an hour. He supposed from this, that they will sail, with such breezes as, in general, blow in their seas, seven or eight miles in an hour on an average. Each day, however, is not to be reckoned at twenty- four hours ; for when they talk of one day's sail, they mean lio more than from the morning to the evening, or ten or twelve hours at the most. From the morning of the first day till the evening of the second, is with them, two days' sail. In the day they are guided by the sun, and, in the night, by stars ; when these are obscured, they can only have recourse to the points from whence the winds and waves come upon the vessel. If, at that time, the winds and waves should shift, they are quite bewil- dered, often missing their intended port, and being never heard of more. The story of Omai's countrymen, who were driven to Wateeoo, convinces us, however, that those who are not heard of are not always lost The harbour and anchoring-place of Tongataboo were superior to any they had met with among these islands, as well from its great security, as its capacity, and goodness of bottom. Tlie risk they ran in entering it from the north, should caution every future commander from attempting that passage again, especially with a ship of burden, since that by which they left it may be pursued with greater ease and safety. Though the harbour of Tongataboo has the preference, its water is exceeded in goodness bv that at Annamooka, and yet this cannot be reckoned good. Tolerable wf»ter may, neverthe- lesSj be procured by digging holes near the side of the pond. Besides, Annamooka being nearly in the centre of the group, is the best situated for procuring refreshments from the others. There is a creek in the reef on the north-side of the island, wherein two or three ships may lie securely. Those who are desirous of having a more particular de- scription of the Friendly Islands, must have recourse to tbe chart, where every thing is_delineated as accurately as cir- cumstances would permit. To the same chart recourse may 200 BOOK'S TH,RI,vOVA<,E,I776_,;g„ After livW«m„„^. , """^ °f ""e ahva, and the •staiidin^ t4iHa„2. '' a person with them iV^^'^'^S^^O"^; ^d w'll!;S;ir,J«,;-- above six Sttoyo" stature, f^nd several ivl,!l n * , ^^e^' slioulderq arl • ^ "^ ^*^ Strong *eat«,« are .ovSot1gi*f,,"?'^'re';gth C„™C«t" 7?^ "■ lie nose whi<-li ;= ^ unless it be bv a ('..r,. ^^"V- llieir many ffenuinr B„ el'aracterize them- „n #t *?ys«neral T^'^nZl.^TZr"^^ *"1 hund" Cf tr^ltr ?'"''' 0. e ships, and the •ee months, it is able to clear up icconnt of their 11 as religious; ^ho, by under- ! enabled to act .for that task, ing concerning ficult to obtain Omai was cer- len were; for, r with making Jrs to them, his iiFered so much of instnicting, seldom find a ty and incHna. hem, they ob. hey, perhaps, lere they con- imfavourable ; rs, there were 1 as with those 1 not observe , r the natives, ing away sa- it surprising. h to remedy r. Anderson, )tained. non stature, lare strong iral, broad; cular dispo- Luty. Their at the point ny general ther hand, Jean faces, teeth ; btit ' white, as e that un- islands. their fea- |te of that lough the heir sex> cook's TinRD VO\AOE, 17 7 G — 1730. 201 laying claim to a considerable share of beauty and expression, yet the rule is not, by any means, so general as in many otl»er countrietj. .This is generally, however, the most exceptionable pcul ; for the bodies and limbs of most of the females are welU jiroportioned and some absolutely perfect models of a beautihil hgure; but the most remarkable distinction in tlie women, is the uncommon smallness and delicacy of their fingers, which may be put in competition with the finest in Europe. The general colour is a cast deeper than the copper brown ; but several of the men and women have a true olive complexion ; and some of tlie last are even a great deal fairer ; which is pro- bably tlie effect of being less exjiosed to the sun ; as a tendency to corpuleitry, in a few of the principal people, seems to be the «oiisw]ueHce of a more indolent life. It is also among the last, that a soft, clear skin is most frequently observed. Amongst the bulk of the people, the skin is more commonly of a dull hue, with some degree of roughness, especially the parts that are not covered ; which, perhaps, may be occasioned by some-cutaneous disease. There were a man and hoy at Hapaee, and a child at x^nnararoka, perfectly white. Such have been, found amongst all bKck nations ; but it is probable that their colour is rather a di>^use than a natural phenomenon. Uj[)on the whole, however, few natural defects or deformities are to be seen amongst them ; though there were two or three \vith their feet bent inward. — Neither are they exempt from some diseases : vast numbers of Uiem are affected with the tetter or ring-worm, which leaves whitish, serpentine marks behind it. But they have another disease of a more mischievous consequence, %vhich is also very frequent, and appears on every part of the body, in large, broad ulcers, some of which had a very virulent api^earance, particularly those on the face. Some appeared to l>e cured of it, and others mending ; but it was generally attended with tlie loss of the nose, or a considt aole part of it. It being certainly known, and even acknowledged by themselves, that the natives ^yere subject to tliis disease before they were visited by tlie English, it cannot be the effect of an odious contagion, notwithstanding the similarity of tlie symptoms ; unless we adopt a supposition, that it was hitroduced here by our people in 1773. It cei'tainly was amongst tliem at present ; for, soon after they arrived there, some of our people received the infection ; and Caj>taiii Cook had the mortification to learn from thence, that all the care he took in 1773, to prevent tlie communication of this dreadful disease, had proved ineffectual. They do not seem, how- ever, to regard it much; and, as our men did not see many in- stances of its destroymg effects, perhaps the climate, and the way of liviiig of these people, may abate its virulence. Two other dis- eases are common amongst them ; one of which is a firm swelling, whicJi affects the legs and arms ; the other is a tumour in the testicles^ which sometimes exceeds the size of two fists. In other K 5 '* ;l 203 flro t>a«^ 1^ ^ . . • The graceful mien a„H « -'""sequen.* of che-rfij'"^"'" conduct But they are aMif P«^'»ns, a, „",' -ce of their S"'r°'"*''; *»S »ome*tfr/'*"\''™«i. a serious air aT ul' ""^^ •^'" "n a degree nf^*'i "" ""e pre' friendly Vecep^C^fefion is sufficiently e on the contrary iXe^k * '" ">« smallest deX. K .-';"* *«»»> intercourse wiS' t^t **.™»st e'vilized peoDlfh ' "^^ ' ''«' medium that nmtes Jf, ^'J'""^' •''y ''»rtennrwhtr''''.r^'' »'' no nation in tbevZllA, 2J""" "• a sort of' K„!w i • '* ^fie only «"•• ™yage« coSd iii™*'^ ?"• "We honesw Sf • ??''««?»; goods/aSd ?o handfc/.f*''?' P*"™" Aem ??'*,^«f» *«t™st.- . The only defec/l.r-^ *¥»» «»'§ .^t pri^en??'' 2*^^^ ^^rtui^ ever, be conS\^%,^««. ""common decree j/'^ T.^^ti; seemed to ejdstm^r^^^ *H^ ^^^eptionablf nai^ /f .1^*?"^^^ ^ow- f I i cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. 203 erson havinff, by any kind very respect, 3y exert both le debilitated nsequence of h they walk, ents. They 3d, that their iientJ V stum- n walking, e abundant are entirely 8 in a bar- ', that they ' acquire an ons, as well time, frank, in the pre- ^, and such an appear- d !* from the ave visited idestinely, hese seas, itile; but, !ourted an I the only Perhaps, 'distrust: line their they put ' of the lent and the most ndustry, r virtues dng. overed, ad both d, how- onduct n their be of s less iwhose indis- # criminate censure on the whole body of the people. Great al- lowances should be made for the foibles of these poor natives of the Pacific Ocean, whose minds were overpowered with the glare of objects, equally new to them, as they were captivating. Stealing, amongst the civilized and enlightened nations of i\\e world, may well be considered as denotmg a character deeply stained with moral turpitude, with avarice unrestrained by the known rules of right, and with profli|racy producing extreme indigence, and neglecting the means oi relieving it. But at the Friendly and other islands which our people visited, the thefts so frequently committed by the natives, of what they had brought along with them, may be fairly traced to less culpable motives. They seemed to arise solely Irom an intense curiosity or desire to possess something which they had not been accustomed to be- fore, and belonging to a sort of peojjle so different from them- selves. And perhaps, if it were possible, that a set of beings, seemingly aa superior in our judgment, as we are in theirs, should appear amongst us, it might be doubted, whether our natural regard to justice would be able to restrain many from falling into this error. The hair of these islanders is, in general, thick, straight, and strong ; though some have it bushy, or frizzled ; the natural colour appears to be black, but many ot the men, and some of the women stain it of a brown, or purple colour ; and a few give it an orange cast. The first of these colours is produced by applying a sort of plaster of burnt coral, mixed witJi water ; the second, by the raspings of a reddish wood, mixed into a poultice, and laid over the hair ; and the third is said to be the effect of turmeric root. They are so whimsical in their fashions of wearing their hair, that it is diflicult to say wliich is most in vogue. Some have none on one side of the head, when it remains long on the other side ; others have only a part of it cut short ; some have parted with the whole, except a single lock on one side ; others permit it to grow to its full length, without any of these mutilations. The women usuaUy wear it short. The beards of the men are cut short ; and both sexes strip the hair from their arm pits. The men are stained with a deep, blue colour from the middle of tlie belly, to half-way down the thighs. This is effected with a flat bone instrument, full of line teeth, which, by a stroke of a bit of stick, introduces the juice of dooe dooe into the skin, by which means indelible marks are made. Lines and figures are thus traced, which in some are very elegant. The women have only some small lines, thus imprinted, in the inside of their hands. As a mark of distinction, their kings are exempted from this custom. The men are all circumcised, or rather super- cised ; the operation consists in cutting off only a piece of the foreskin at the upper part, which is thus rendered incapable of ever covering the glana. They have no other aim in this opera- tion, but only practise it from a notion of cleanliness. 1 i\ SC4 '^OK-s T,„„« VOVAOE, irr,. it: J , T''« dress „n,„„, '■•""':'"-^-'=> 'nc^ir,o. 3 a^i Z^S- I rVr VVt in"J^rr ••>' o^" Piece . n/ied with a vpII^.. - "rawn out af fiT "!/'*ree inches infr*'^ fame manner as^Sfe t "'"'"*'' ™b Kv^ f? ^^ ""« Powder r. n ^'" *"*ck mat- «»d mistress to sleen'i.r"''^"'' " ""ffi^^rLcl ft'"""'''"* partofthefloor tt? • v"* rest of the fcnf;i,;i '''^ "aster each other itth.V"'T'P«^'»«n and wom^„ f * ^''P ""»" any in Tvhich L seitt^^ ^ ^Xfo- there Z Me ff? "'i?" ' ^m some wooden »too?« I^*?- '^heir whole fornff'""" ''*»"'iiig, different sfees^twhi^h? "^-^^ 'hem for p™|ot!:'. ^T'^ «' tools; two cr three „Z.*lP"t their combs Zh V i"''*'^ »'' some cocoa-nu7»l..iY "''*? ''"«''«> in wh "h *h*^"''°."'"' and cloth. °" "•" "''«"«. a few gourds, I„d „ h.f^.r ""^ *•""» / They are venr skilfi.l ; u ,.. *"" "' '"» «'' are tte most peS „f"»k™'''"'8 *«■• cauoes wh; i ■ ^ double ones are ma^, ,„« ''^'\"«ehanicall^'d"7A mdeed, sons, and sail atTg^^^f "f tly 'arge to cimrXuTfiW ^ nut or shed f«i. ♦k ^ ^ .'^'*te — ^Unon tht^m Tu^ a**out hfty per. »re made oVSe^ '*^Ptionof the'^Xld'h^ f "^-^/fe a tremely neat t^ '^''d-fniit tree, and T/^'' T '°""'y- Thev r^^Ksoterr on *er„;it a^fef " '=^- round to consiVr nf J: ' ^"^^ "Pon ciospr in. ^^ ^^^® com- exactly, a^7bV^^^f??l7«b^^^ ^^ are Srether with cocoa-n?/l,- ^ ^?^.S^« »« the insiiiTIt ^^""^ ^^^r an out-nWer Tto . ^- ^^e single clnnp« 5^ ^^^"^'^d to- construcrfrofth^LrJj.'""^^ r^icftSv'n^ ^^ ^hed witl black stone ; au fe ' n?^ ^'^ Ratchets, Tr^d.L "'? °^ '» ^he Poeed of the rS^t; '^^^ ^^ shark's teeth -fi ""^^ ^"^ooth. Their fishinff.lin^« ' "y twisting sevemi ^? .l ® '"^Pes of a 1 a row, close le . 'instruction e aTenretched ;ath.v. ^Thohc nmodioud and i following di- ity in breadth, srly speaking, 1 posts. The sith thick mat- •und; but the le with strong or interwoven lad, bent into ends touching for the master eep upon any ng apart from uts ac^joiiiUig, re consists of 8 ; baskets of h-hooks, and make kava ; die or two of cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. 207 li f ones are only covered with it on the back ; and the points of both, are, in general, of tortoise-shell. With the large hooks they catch albicores, and bonnetos, by putting them to a bam- boo-rod, about twelve feet long, with a line of the same length. They have also numbers of small seines, some of which are of the most delicate texture. Their musical reeds or pipes, which resemble the syrinz of the ancients, have eight or ten pieces placed parallel to each other, most of which are of unequal lengths. Their flutes are made of a joint of bamboo, about eighteen inches long, and are closed at both ends, having a hole near each end, and four others ; two of which, and only one of the first, are used by them in playing. They close th** left nostril with the thumb of the left hand, and blow into the hole at one end with the other nostril. The fore-iinger of the right hand is applied to the lowest hole on the rights and the middle finger of the left to the first hole on that side. In this manner, with only three notes, they produce a pleasing, though simple music. Their naffa, or drum, has been already described. Their warlike weapons are clubs, curiously ornamented, spears, and darts. They also make bows and arrows ; but these are intended for amusement, such as shooting at birds, and not for the puiposes of war. — Their stools, or rather pillows, are about two feet long, but only four or five inches in height, and nearly four iii breadth, inclining downwards towards the middle, with four strong legs and circular feet ; the whole composed of brown or black wood, neatly polished, and sometimes inlaid with ivory. They likewise inlay with ivory the handles of fly-flaps ; and with a shark's tooth, shape bones into figures of men, birds, &c. Their vegetable diet principally consists of plantains, coooa- nuts, bread-fruit, and yams. Their chief articles of animal food are hogs, fish, and fowls ; but the common people frequently eat ratd. Their hogs, fowls, and turtle, however, seem to be OTily occasional dainties, reserved for persons of rank. Their food is, in general, dressed by baking, as at Otaheite ; and they make, from diflerent sorts of fruit, several dishes, which are very good. They sometimes boil their fish in tlie green leaves of the plantain-tree, which serve aa a bag *o hold both fish and water : having tied them up, they WTap them again in three or four other leaves, and place them upon stones heated for the purpose : when they are sufficiently done, they not only eat the fish, but drink the Uquor or soup. They are not very cleanly either in their cookery, or their manner of eating. Their usual drink at their meals is water, or cocoa-nut milk, the kava being only tlieir morning beverage. The food that is served up to the chiefs is generally laid upon plantain-leaves. The king, at his meals, was commonly attended upon by three or four of the natives, one of whom cut large pieces of the fish, or of the joint another after- 208 cook's third voyage, 1776—1780. wards divided it into mouthfuls, and the rest stood by witli cocoa-nuts, and whatever else he mighty happen to want. A large company was never observed to sit down to a sociable meal, by eating from the same dish. The women are not ex- cluded from taking their meals with the men ; but there are cer- tain ranks that are not allowed either to eat or drink together. This distinction begins with his majesty, but it is not known whei'e it ends. They rise at day-break, and retire to rest as soon as it be- ccpnes dark. They, for the most part, sleep also in the day-time, when the weather is very hot. They are Ibnd of associating to- gether ; in consequence of which, it is not uncommon to find several houses empty, and the possessors of them assembled in some otlier house, or upon some convenient spot in the neigli. bourhood, where they relax themselves by conversation and other amusements. Their private diversions consist chiefly of dancing, singing, and music. When two or three women snap their lingers, and sing in concert, it is called hoobai ; but wheii there are more, they fonn several parties, each of which sings in a different key, which constitutes an agreeable melody, and is texmed heeva or haiva : the songs are generally accompanied with the music of their flutes. The dances both of the men and women are performed with an ease and grace which are dilficull to be described. Captain Cook could not determine with precision, whetlier their marriages were rendered durable by any kind of solemn contract : it is certain, however, that the m^or part of the peo- ple contented themselves with one wife. The chiefs, indeed, have commonly several women, though there was only one who (as they tliought), was considered in the light of mistress of the family. Though female chastity seemed to be held in little esti- maiuloii, not a single breach of conjugal fidelity happened, to the knowledge of our men, during their whole continuance at these islands ; nor were the unmarried women more liberal of their favours: but there were great numbers of a veky differe;it character. The concern shewn by these islanders for the dead, is a strong [wxjof of their humanity : besides the tooge, already mentioned, and burnt circles and scars, they strike a shark's tooth into their heeds till the blood flows in.streams, beat in their teeth with stones. a»d thrust spears, not only through their cheeks into tlieir mouths, but also into tlie inner part of their thighs, and into their sides. The more painful operations, however, are only prac- tised when they mourn the death of those who were most nearly connected to them. When one of tliem dies, he is wrapped up in mats and cloth, and then interred. The Jiatookas seem to l>e ^i^'0))riated to the chiefs and other persons of distinction, as tfieir burial-places; but tlie inferior people have no particular spot, set apart for their intei'ment. It is uncertain what part ot H I stood by witli en to want. A n to a sociable men are not ex- it there are cer- drink together. t is not known soon as it be- in the day-time, ' associating to- ;ommon to find !m assembled in )t in the neigh- nversation and >nsist chiefly of ee women snap 9^ai; but when of which sings melody, and is y accompanied of the men and ich are dilficult ;ision, whetlier ind of solemn rt ofthepeo- liefs, indeed, only one who nistress of the in little esti- pened, to the lance at these leral of tlieir eky different d_, is a strong y mentioned, th into their 1 with stones. into their nd into their 3 only prac- most nearly wrapped up seem to l>e itinction, as particular hat part oi cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. 209 :s the mom-ning ceremonjr follows immediately afterwards; but fliere is something besides the general one which is continued lot a considerable time, the funeral of Mareewagee's wife being fCttended with ceremonies of five days' duration. They seem to consider death as a great evil, to avert which they practise a very singular custom. ^V^len Captain Cook during his second voy- ^e first visited these island.s,ne observed tliat many of the natives had OTie or both of their little fingers cut ofl* ; of the rea.son of wiiich mutilation he could not tlien obtain a satisfactory account. Rit he was now informed, that they perform this operation wlien they are afflicted with some dangerous disorder, which they imagine may bring them to the grave. They suppose that the little finger will be accepted of by the deity as a kind of pro- Jitiatory sacrifice, sufficiently efficacious to procure theirrecovery. n cutting it off, they make use of a stone hatchet — ^There was scarcely one person in ten who was not thus mutilated ; aaid they sometimes cut so close, as to encroach upon that bone CT!'" the hand which joins the amputated finger. It is also common ior the lower class of people to cut off a joint of their little finger, an ficcount of the sickness of tlie chiefs to whom they reepectively belong. \^'^hen the rigid strictness with which they perform their mourning and religious ceremonies is considered, it might be expected, that they endeavoured thereby to secure to themselves eternal happiness ; but their principal object regards things mereJy temporal ; for they have apparently little conception of future punishment for sins committed in the present life. They bejieve, however, that they meet with just i)unishment upon eartli; and therefore put evory method in practice to render their divinities propitious. 1 admit a plurality of deities, all of them inferior to Kallafootoi.^i, who they say is a t male, and the supreme author of most tinngs residing in the heavens, and directing the wind, rain, thunder, ^c. They art of opinion, that when she is much displeased with them, the productions of the earth are blasted, many things consumed by lightnii ; , and themselves afflicted with sickness and death ; but that when her anger abates, every thing is immediately reston I to its former stale. Among tlieir subordinate deities, they mention Futtafaihe^ QgcFootafooa, who has the administration of tlie sea, and its pro- ductions; Too/boaboolootoo, god of tlie clouds and fog; 7'alle- teboo, Mataba, Tareeava, and others. .The san system of r^igion does not extend all over the Friendly Islands •,, the su- preme deity of Hapaee, for instance, being called Alo Alo. f hey entertain very absurd opinions relative to the power and various attributes of these beings, who, they suppose, have no ftu'tlier concern with them after death. They have, however, juster sentiments respecting the immortality and immateriality of the soul ; which they call life, the living principle, or an Otooa^ that is, a divinity. They imagine that immediatdy after II 210 ;.( ■ V sp COOK'S TfflBJ, VOVAOE, 1776-1780 the I f — '"*-'iuis, 1776—1780 matically; but fce*!, "-"torn at Ofaheitef "Xs1±f - K^r ''"'■>"'^-S^<»'nds and pJaces-^f':f If. *"■ """■«'» ^^X "uwever, appeared to K« o . "^^^'snip ; somp nf ^ k J i aext after thin, F' ^ '"^^^ Patent chiefs intZ^i .^^ "^^^ I ! ■# also 0. ' bodies, and go arod of which is •ersonifv death; general reposi- yed thither, ar« ivourite produc- issful abode is le of an inferior i of transmigra- !d loata, which I, or any thing wrings of dogs, unless emble. doubt of their ) ' morais are, in some of them. to the former rior to the rest. •f government. our ancestors } subdivisions, 1 some of them nded, and that operties of his themselves to led the idea of oobou, acted uently coun- ourt superior [ee, who, next islands ; and in rank and the principal ct to the will 3us districts, [justice, and these chiet- ire supplies. j his distant [place of his lion among le Land of Eippellation learth, and le name of ition, who cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. 211 is probably considered by them as their tutelary patron. The king's peculiar title is simply Tooee Tunga, The order and de- corum observed in his presence, and likewise in that of the other chiefs, are truly admirable. Whenever he sets down, all the attendants seat themselves before him, for ling a semicircle, and leaving a sufficient space between them and him, into which no one, unless he has particular business, presumes to come. Neither is any one sutTered to sit, or pass behind him, nor even near him, without] his permission. When a person wishes to speak tc his majesty, he comes forward, and having seated himself be- fore him, delivers in a few words what he has to say ; and, having received his answer, retires again to the circle. But if the king speaks to any one, that person answers from his seat, unless he is to receive an order, in which case he rises from his place, and seats himself cross-legged"^ before his majesty. To speak to the king standing would here be considered as a glaring mark of ruJeness. None of the most civilized nations have ever exceeded these islanders in the great order and regularity maintained on every occasion, in ready and submissive compl'.ance with the com- mands of their chiefs, and in the perfect harmony that subsists among all ranks. — Such a behaviour manifests itself in a remark- able manner whenever their chiefs harangue a body of them assembled together, which frequently happens. The ^eatest attention and most profound silence are observed dunng the harangue ; and whatever might have been the purport of the oration, our people never saw a single instance, when any one of those who were present shewed signs of his being displeased, or seemed in the least inclined to dispute the declared will of the speaker. It IS a peculiar privilege annexed to the person of the king, not to be punctured, nor circumcised, or rather supercised, as sdl liis subjects are. Whenever he walks out, all who meet him must sit down till he has passed. No person is suffered to be over his head ; but on the contrary all must come under his feet. The method of doing homage to nim and the other chiefs, is as follows : — the person who isito pay obeisance squats down before the great personage, and bows the head down to the sole of his foot, which he taps or touches with the under and upper side of the fingers of each hand; then rising up,jhe retires. They had reason to think, that his majesty cannot refuse any one who is desirous of paying him this homage, which is called by the na- tives moe moea ; for the people would frequently think proper to shew him those marks of submission when he was wrllang ; and he was on those occasions obliged to stop, and hold up one of his feet behind him, till they had performed this respectful cere- ♦ It may be proper to mention here, on the authority of Captain King, thnt this pos- ture is peculiar to the men ; for the females always sit with both their legs thrown a little ou one side. 212 m to so pni^«l„-.x SI ^^.tZ^-'^'^TtZiS^j^y "man . P„„„„ <^any juicT nl»«* ? • . ""ended with iZ^ ^-^^^ " ^r from tion. When (^h»ir.i*^"»' serve forth. !f^P'^"''"''«' beiW J-emo,. the 1™ "*"*' »"= in this »fw- P"?""* o'pnrifiM severaj other casetS' ' T^ """ easilvh,. 'i?'i?T«J'»>>>ase We often seeS^^omr""'. ''".'"'"ne ^r a certr^f''^''.°f ^ bntS deaaneS: a-Vt'Sr**''"^ '^^re^ pSeT/''^^?'' bod,' msuestv for thl, always necessarv *„ ?"™e<' from her un Tliey infomed nhK't*"?' <"• '"aTe u ^''^'V^ Particular S become Jd„otr£eate„'"°fe"'' '^'"'^ ' are removed te:'''?''.'^«t touch food of vRter is far from ience, if a piece procure, being )ose of purifica- ey term it taboo , and the latter '■ doing homage shed off; but in 1 period. They ma, not fed by Tson, after the of their baths, ter. She then the customary applies to her ces her on both I from her un- ecourse to his Te not certain, reason for his ler. ion. They call ^rticular thing ay it is taboo, a house be- consequence owner of it; ies peculiarly iToobou pre- [isunderstaud ities had the re that each d directing [O prudent a a famine; and every islands of le of them to throw oif they stated I their not this, that COOX'S THIRD VOYAGE, 1776 — 1780. 213 all their principal chiefs take up their residence at Tongataboo. They also secure the dependence of the other isles, by the decisive celerity of their operations ; forif a seditious and popular man should startup in any of them, Feenou, or whoever happens to hold his office, Ls immediately dlspatclied thither to put him to death ; by v/hich means they extinguish an insurrection while it is yet in embryo. The different classes of their chiefs seemed to be nearl)' as numerous as among us : but there are few comparatively speak- ing, that are lords of extensive districts of territory. It is said, that when a person of property dies, all his possessions devolve the sovereign : but that it is customary to give them to the on eldest son of the deceased, with this condition aiinexed, that he should provide out of the estate for the other children. The crown is hereditary ; and it is known from a particular circum- stance, that the Futtafaihes, of which family is Poulaho, have reigned in a direct line, for the space of at least one hundred and thirtv-five years, which have elapsed between the present visit to these islands, and Tasman's discovery of them. Upon inquiring of them, whether any traditional account of the arrival of Tasman's ships had been preserved ^vmong them till this time, it was found that this history had be( a^ delivered down to them from their ancestors with great accuracy : for they said that his two ships resembled theirs, and also mentioned the place where they had lain at anchor, their having continued but a few days, and tiieir quitting that station to go to Annamooka ; and, for the purpose of informing our officers how long ago this ailair had happened, they comr mnicated to them the name of the Futtaiaihe vyho reigned at that time, and those who had suc- ceeded him in the sovereignty, down to Poulaho, who is the fifth monarch since that period. It might naturally be imagined, that the present sovereign of the Friendly Isles had the highest rank of any person in his do- minions : but it was found to be otherwise ; for Latoolibooloo, who has been already mentioned, and three women, are superior, in some respects, to Poulaho himself. Tlie great personages are distinguished by the title of Tammaha, which implies a chief. When they made inquiry concerning them, they were informed tliat the late king, father of Poulaho, left behind him a sister of equal rank, and older than himself ; that she, by a native of Feejee, had a son and two daughters, and that these three per- sons, as well as their mother, are of higher rank than the king. They endeavoured to discover the reason of this pre-eminence of the Tammahaa, but without effect. The mother, and one of her daughters, named Tooleela-kaipa, reside at Vavaoo. The other daughter^alled Moungoula-kaipa, and Latoolibooloo, the son, dweli at Tongataboo. Moungoula-kaipa is the lady who has been mentioned as having dined with Captain Cook on the i21st of June. Latoolibooloo was supposed by his coimtrymer. 'M W iM n m ' . ;: jfMtti] 19 1 ';i;, 1 I i : ■ 1 , ■ 214 cook's third voyage, 1776—1780. to be disordered in his senses. At Eooa, or Middlebur^, they shewed them a considerable quantity of land, which was said to.be his property ; and they saw there a son of his^ a child, who was honoured with the same title that his father enjoyed. The language of these islands bears a striking resemblance to that of New Zealand, of Otaheite, and the Society Isles. The f pronunciation of these jieople differs, indeed, in many instances, rora that both of Otaheite and New Zealand ; but, notwithstand- ing that, a great number of words are either very little changed, or exactly the same. The language, as spoken by the Friendly Islanders, is sufficiently copious to express all their ideas ; and, besides, being tolerably harmonious in common conversation, is easily adapted to the purposes of music. They have terms to signifjr numbers as far as a hundred thousand, beyond which they either would not, or could not reckon. The latitude of that part of Tongataboo where the observatory was erected, which was near the middle of the north-side of the island, was, according to the most accurate observations, 21 deg. 8 min. and 19 sec. south ; and its longitude was 184 deg. 55 min, and 88 sec. east. The tides are more considerable at the Friendlv Islands, than at any other of Captain Cook's discoveries in this ocean, that are situated within either of the tropics. At Annamooka the { tide rises and falls about six feet, upon a perpendicular. At Tongataboo, it rises and falls four feet and three quarters, on the full and change days; and three feet and a half at the quadratures. Captain Cook now took his final leave of the Friendly Islands. On the 17th of July, at eight o'clock in the evening, Eooa bore north-east-by-nortn, distant three or four leagues. The wind blew a fresh gale at east : e ships stood to the south, till after six o'clock the next morning, when, from the same direction, a sudden squall took the ships aback ; and before they could trim the ships on the other tack, the main-sail and the top-gallant sail were considerably torn. On the 19th and 20th, the wind kept between the south-west and south-east; then it veered to the east-north-east, and north. They now stretched to the east- south-east without meeting with any thing remarkable, till the 29th, at seven o'clock in the evening, when they had a very heavy squall of wind from the north. They were, at this time, under single-reefed top- sails, courses, and stay-sails. Two of the latter were f Jmost demolished by the wind ; and it was with the utmost difficulty that they saved the other sails. This squall being over, they saw several lights moving on-board the Dis- covery ; whence thej|; coiyectured that something had given way; and, the next morning, they perceived that her main-top-niast had been lost. Both wind and weather remained very unsettled till noon, when the latter cleared up, and the fom.er settled in the north-west quarter. Their latitude was now 28 deg. 6 min. 0. iddlebur^j they ih was said to,)ie [, child^ who was '} ed. f resemblance to :| iety Isles. The * many instances, it^ notwithstand- IT little changed, by the Friendly leir ideas ; and, conversation^ is y have terms to , beyond which ' the observatory lorth-side of the vations^ 21 deg, 184 deg. 55min. V Islands, than his ocean, that ^nnamooka the 3endicular. At e quarters, on a half at th« hiendly Islands. jng, Eooa bore !s. The wind jouth, till after le direction, a ley could trim |op-gallant sail the wind kept [veered to the to the east- Lable, till the had a very I at this tinie, lils. Two of Id it was with This squall ird the Dis- cook's tiurd voyage, 1/76 — 1780. 215 given way; jain-top-maat ]ry unsettled ?r settled in deg. 6 min. south, and longitude 198 deg. 23 min. east. They saw some pintado birds, which were the first they had seen since they left the land. At noon, on the 3ist, Captain Gierke made a signal to speak with Captain Cook ; and aftenvards informed him, that the head of the main-mast had sprung, and in such a manner as to render the rigging of another top-mast extremely dangerous ; that he must therefore rig something lighter in its place. He further informed him, that he had lost his main-top gallant-yard, and had not another on-board, nor a spar to make one. Captain Cook sent him the Resolution's sprit-sail-top-sail-yard, which supplied this want for the present ; the next day, by getting up a jury top-mast, on wliich he set a mizen top-sail, he was enabled to keep way with the Resolution. They steered east-north-east, and north-east, without meeting with any remarkable occurrence till the morning of the 8th of August, at eleven o'clock, when land was observed j^eaxm^ north-north-east, about nine or ten leagues distant. At first it appeared like so many separate islands : but, as they approached they found it was all connected, and formed one and the same island. They steered directly for it with a fine gale, and, at half-past six in the afternoon, it extended from north-by-east, to north-north-east, distant three or four leagues. At day-break, the next morning, they steered for the north-west side of the island, and as they stood round its south-west part, they saw it guarded by a reef of coral rock, extending, in some places, at least a mile from land, and a high surf breaking upon it. As they drew near, saw people walking or ninning along shore on several parts of the coast ; and, in a short time after, when they had reached the lee-side of the island, they saw two canoes launched, in which were about a dozen men, who paddled towards them. In order to give these canoes time to come up with them, ba well as to sound for anchorage, they shortened sail, and at the distance of half a mile from the reef, they found from forty to thirty five fathoms' water. The canoes, after having advanced within pistol-shot of the ships, suddenly stopped. Omai was de- sired, as was usual on such occasions, to endeavour to prevail upon the men in them to come nearer ; but no arguments could induce them to trust themselves within their reach. They often pointed eagerly to the shore with their paddles, at the same time calling to our men to go thither ; and many of their people who were standing upon the beach, held up something white in their hands, which was construed as an invitation for them to come to land. They could easily have accomplished this, there being good anchorage without the reef, and an opening in it, through which the canoes had passed, which had no surf upon it ; but the captain did not choose to risk the advantage of a fair wind, in order to examine an island that appeared to be but of little 216 cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. I '■ i' .' i< ;,l consequence: besides, they required no refreshments, if they had been certahi of meeting with them there, and, therefore, after making several inisuccessful attempts to prevail upon the* t)eople to come near, they made sail to the north, and left theni; laving first learned that the name of their island was Tooboiiai: it is situated in the latitude of 23 deg. 25 min. south ; ami in 210 deg. 37 min. east longitude. The greatest extent of this island, in any direction, is not above live or six miles. Small, however, as it appears, there are hills in it of a considerable elevation ; at the foot of which is a narrow border of flat land, extending almost round it, bordered wth a wliite sand-beach ; the hills were covered with herbage, except a few rocky cliffs, with patches of trees interspersed to their summits. This island, as they were informed by the men in the canoes, is plentifully stockea with hogs and fowls ; and produces the several kinds of fruits aiid roots that are to be met with at the other islands in this neighbourhood. From the conversation our men iiad with those who came off to the ships, they discovered, that the inhabitants of Toobouai speak the Otaheite language ; anindubitable proof that they ape of the same nation. Those whom they saw in the canoes wen a stout, copper^coloured people ; some wearing their hair (which Avas straight and black) flowing about the shoulders, and others having it tied in a bunch on the crown of the head. Their faces were roundish and full, hut the features, flat ; and their counte- nances expressed a degree of natural ferocity. Their coveriiig was a piece of narrow stuff' wmpped round the waist, and passed between the thiglis ; but some of those whom they beheld upon the beach were completely clothed in white. Some of the visi- tors in the canoes had their necks ornamented with pearl-shells; find one of them continued blowing a large conch-shell, to whicli a reed of about two feet long was fixed ; he began in a long tone, without any variation, and afterwards converted it into a kind ol' musical instniment. Whether the blowing of the conch por- tended any thing, is not known, but it was never found the mes- se^er of peace. The length of their canoes appeared to be about thirty feet, and they rose about two feet above the surface of the water, as they floated. The fore part projected a little ; the after part rose to the height of two or three feet, with a gradual curve, ami, like the upper part of the sides, was carved all over. The rest of the sides were ornamented with flat, white shells, curiously disposed : there were eight men in one of the canoes, and seven in the other. — ^They were managed with small paddles, whose blades were almost circular ; and they sometimes paddled *vith the two opposite sides so close together, that they appeared to be but one boat ; the rowers occasionally turning their faces to the stern, and pulling that way, without paddling the canoes round. Seeing the ships were determined to leave them, they 0. ihinents^ if they and, therefore, evail upon thea , and left them ; was Toobouai; . south ; and iti - Irection, is not pears, there are tt oi' which is a ind it, bordemlf with herbage, interspersed to led by the nien and fowls ; and it are to be met le who came ofi ts of Toobouai of that they ape he canoes were leir hair (which lers, and others d. Their faces d their counte- Their covering |ist, and passed beheld upNon me of the visi- 1 pearl-shells; fhell, to w hicJi a long; tone, into a kind ot conch por- •und the mes- it thirty feet, [the water, as ^e after part curve, ami, The rest |ls, curious!} and seven lies, wliose addled with ippeared to 3ir faces to Ithe canoes Ithem, they cook's third voyage, 177C — 1780. *2\7 ■i stood up and repeated something aloud ; but whether they were expressing their enmity or friendship was not known. It is certain, however, that they had not any weapons with them ; nor could our men with their glasses discover that thofie on-shore were armed. Leaving the island, the ships steered to the north with a fresh gale, and at day-break, on the I2th, they perceived the island of Maitea, Otaheite appeared soon after ; tiie point of Oheitepeha Bay bearing west about four leagues distant : they steered for this bay, intending to anchor there, in order to draw some re- freshments from the south-east part of the island, before they proceeded to Matavai, where they expected their principal sup- ply : they had a fresh gale till two o'clock in the afternoon, when, at about a league from the bay, the wind suddenly died away : about two hours after they had sudden squalls with rain from the east ; and about nine o'clock they were obliged to stand out, and spend the night at sea. Wlien near the island, several canoes came oif to the-ship, each conducted by two or three men. But, as they were common fellows, Omai took no particular notice of them, nor they of him : they did not even seem to perceive that he^ was one of their countrymen, although they conversed with him for some time. At length a chief, whom Captain Cook had known before, named Ootee, and Omai's brother-in-law, who chanced to be now at this corner of the island, and three or four more persons, all of whom knew Omai before he embarked vvith CaptEiin Furneaux, came on-board : yet there was nothing either tender or striking in their meeting : on the contrary, there seemed to be a perfect indifference on both sides, till Omai, having taken his brother down into the cabin, opened the drawer where he kept his red feathers, and gave him a few. This being presently known among the rest of the natives upon deck, the face of affairs was entirely turned, and Ootee, who would hardly speak to Omai before, now begged that they might be tat/og (friends), and ex- change names. Omai accepted the honour, and confirmed it with a present of red feathers ; and Ootee, by way of return, sent ashore for a hog ; but it was evident to every one of them, that it was not the man but his property they were in love with. Had he not shewn to them his treasure of red feathers, which is tlie commodity in greatest estimation at the island, it is doubtful whether tliey would have bestowed even a cocoa-nut upon him. Such ^vQs Omai's first reception among his countrymen ; indeed, our officers never expected it would be otherwise; but still they were in hopes, that the valuable cargo of presents, with which the liberality of his friends in England had loaded him, would l>e the means of raising him into consequence, and of making lum respected, and even courted, bythe first persons throughout tlie extent of the Society Islands. This could not but have hap- pened, had he conducted himself with any degree of prudence ; L 10 I 318 COOKS rmRD vovAOE, im~mo «>««. instead of that ."". " "°=' '""-"'SO. and fruit to market 4 f/?"^"^*^^ ^th People brw/I"!!'^^^ circled by a n3-IJ;,Xi'^^''™^^ttd^ came W»Z'bo^:^\Td l\?l^ ""^^^^ ^& It^ "?? away fo„r of the nahvl^" '^'l'' "»«» behind thei™!*'''^ own peoDle bufTfrfU l^ * ^^o»*t stay, thpv f« i *^^"^r tn^ small H;X^ f ^" J^^ ^ouse standiiifl- Tk-^ ^'^^ ^^^^y their thi sei tai the ha( abf Wi fhe Ob< pan assic Eng rso. U*^ i^e repeated ffered himself to -board the ships, 'nds, day had no were surrounded ' bringing hogs lers not greater urchase a hog of P' person in the ticie of trade, it e night. How. »vour; and red ver every other 1 h' V ^«^' 1' j^*^^ and , toad so great tnat few would 5 to anchor in ster came on- observe, that, "kedwitkex- noving scene, ion of the for! 5* nis mother m plentifully old iH.l^,^ en. ike a view of he returned, ; and it was ompany the »nd from the ^ ^^e put into I ad left some •St time they nem, carry. * the same e other Uw away their ituated at a Is of which prepared, bered. h ne were a ; trifles, of the house ^y a shed »d, which ""ved US «if.i,,,|.. . „ , , '""• Via On the ,„h,.r side nfT'' '" "'^^''^■'- '"> -ve „.e ™e-Vo;1..^Vorifet gl. '»f ™re to ,„- OMRO.US TERT.Js „EV^'"'''' ''J' "'»<'-ib!,,R, Near tl,ef„„t„f„- ■"'■'"'•■"" W- called Mateema r«o^ Y- ^", behind, and wh«J. *i ^ ^* ^"e mpress their minis wIkVk*''''*^' """' l"* mig^ beTJuTT' "f the SpanisI, mo„„"h ""^ ?""" «al(ed idew nV ^^ "'''*«' '« English Heevr "'"I'"'"' ""f'e them thi^l ** ?''«'°*''«8S lonler existed rf-*^^"' «" '»■• as to Zu- ,u "'^''n'y of the on^^^a Si ?sCd';;;&tts"«'«<'"j S'tt:^^rt;L-„7 "" bottom : allTWs''*^/^'" ^^ '^'P' »i h eve^ t^,"? «£»*»' W Spaniards make these ne "^. °^f '"'P"'^blPf£L'^/V^ «he V'ews in this evn.jv P^",P'* believe. Bnt if S™? ?° ?' ''"l «he betteVire'refrh''''''T"'''" *« dep-cia;" 'theT W "» »*« to the i»land tweh S' *' *"""«' forCaptaif"&'-- '''«'' S'^ered as L co^.et-StioTor^Slf ^^^^^^^^^^ .. Waheiadooa. ,nv,„:.. .^. ***•*«"" '"'d ,,.Waheiad„«., sovereign orr 7 "'"^ *^- tee: :^e»rr»-feSvrh*« -- »^ assisted bv «^™ ?,* 'ormal visit- nn tt- ^aptain pKe- •220 cook's third VOYAGEj 1776 — 1780. !!-!•■ M nor in the dress of any country upon earth, but in a strange medley of all that he was possessed of. 'r'^ere was nothing re- markable in this interview, except the inforuiation which Cap- tain Cook received, that the Spaniards, when they visited the island, had desired the chiefs not to suffer him to enter Oheite- pelia Bay, if he should return again, for that the island belonged to them ; " but the person," says Captain Cook, " who addressed me with this information, assured me, that they were so far from I)aying any regard to this request, that he was authorized now to make a formal surrender of the province of Tiaraboo to me, and «:)f every thing in it ; which marks very plainly, that these people are no strangers to the policy of accommodating themselves to present circumstances. At length the young chief waij directed by his attendants to come and embrace me : and, by way of confirming this treaty of friendshii), vre exchanged nanaes. The ceremony being closed, he and his friends accompanied me to dinner. " Omai had prepared a maro, composed of red and yellow feathers, which he intended for Otoo, the king of the whok island; and, considering where we were, it was a present of ver^' great value. I said all that I could to persuade him not to liroduce it now, wishing him to keep it on-board till an opportiv- nity should offer of presenting it to Otoo with his o"wn nands. But he had too good an opinion of the honesty and fidelity of his countrymen to take my advice. Nothing would serve him, but to carry it ashore on this occasion, and to give it to Waheia- dooa, to be by him forwarded to Otoo, in order to its being added to the royal maro. ^ He thought by this management tliat he should obhge both chiefs, whereas he highly disobliged ti»e one, whose favour was of the most consequence to him, without At'alk3, discovered, as they thought, a Vloman Catholic chapel. They described the altar which tlie} said they had seen, and every other constituent part of such a place of worship. They mentioned, however, that two persons, who had the care of it, would not permit them to go in ; on which accrunt the captain imagined they were mistaken, aiid had the curiosity to pay a vbit to it himself: the supposed cha^l liappened to b<} a toopapaoo, in which the body ot the late ua- heiadooa lay In a kind of state : it was in a pretty large house, enclosed with a low palisade: the /oo/>a/>aoo was remarkably neat, mmA resembled one of those litlie awnings over their large cook's third VOWOE, 1776— 17 bO. 2M t in a strange ivas nothing re- ion which Cap. hey visited the o enter Oheite- sland belonged who addressed ere so far from horized now to boo to me, and at these people themselves to ef was directed ind, by wav of i names. The mpanied me to 3d and yellow of the wholt s a present of ade him not to ill an opportii- lis o^vn iiands. and fideUty of Lild serve him, ^ it to Waheia- r to its being lagement tliat lisobliged the him, without 3reseen, hap- and only sent ntieth pan ol oung chiei a a quantity ot kvorks, which itors. Soibe [y thought, a which thej rt of such a two persons, |o go in ; on iitaken, and losed cha^l le late AVa- irge house, remarkably their large canoes : it was hung and covered with cloths and mats of a variety of colours, which had a beautiful effect. One piece of scarlet, broad cloth, of the length of four or five yards, appeared conspicuous among the other ornaments ; which had probably been received as a present from tlie Spaniards. This cloth, and some tassels of feathers, suggested to our gentlemen the idea of a chapel; and their imagination supplied whatever else was wanting to create a resemblance : hearing that the Spaniards had visited this place, might operate on their minds upon this occasion, and add to the probability of its being a chapel. Small offerings of fruits and roots seemed to be daily made at this shrine, some pieces being now quite fresh. These were deposited on a kind of altar, which stood witliout the palisades ; mthin which they were not permitted to enter. Two men con- stantly attended here, both night and day; as well to watch over the place, as to dress and undress the toopapaoo. When Cap- tain Cook went to survey it, the cloth and its appendages were rolled up; but, at his request, the two attendants placed it in order, but not till after thev had dressed themselves in clean, wliite robes. The chief had been dead about twenty months. Having provided a fresh supply of water, and finished all t\\e necessary operations, on the 22nd, they brought off the animals from shore, and made ready for sea. While the ships were un- mooring, Omai and Captam Cook landed, on the morning of the 23rd, to take leave of the young chief: vvliile they were with him, one of those persons, whom they called Eatooa^, from a persuasion tliat they possess the spirit of the divinity, presented himself before them. He had alt the appearances ot insanity a)>out him ; and his only covering was a quantity of plantain- leaves wrapped round his waist : he uttered what he had to say in a low, squeaking voice, so as hardly to be understood. But Omai said he perfectly comprehended him, and that he was ad- vising Waheiadooa not to accompany Captain Cook to Matavai, an expedition which he Iiad never known that he intended, nor liad the captain ever made such a proposal to him. The Eatooit also predicted, that the ships woiiid not arrive that day at Ma- tavai. In this, however, he was mistaken ; though appearances^ at that time, favoured his assertion, as there was not a single breath of wind in any direction : while he was delivering his prophecy, a heavy shower of rain came on, which occasioned all to run for shelter, except himself, wlio appeared to disregard it. He continued squeaking about half an hour, and then retired ; no attention being paid to what he uttered, though some of the natives laughed at him. Captain Cook {isked the chief, whetlier he was an Earec or a Toutou f the answer he received was, that he was taata oto^ that is, a bad man ; and yet, notwithstanding this, and the little notice taken of the mad prophet, superstition so far governs tlie 'rfitJ Hii %i '!» 2i2 natives thaUh„ k . ' '"«-178fr. hajf fulfilled. '"«' ^'-x^quenfly, the man'^nr;? i"" «^** '» On the 34th of August On '"'"^ '^ ■ io-hSs^"sf1^^^^^^^^ Jiimself for this cerem?^^'^ ".^>^« ^^e cantein «K^ }^ ^'"^ «^ *hreeya?ds of ioU ^f P'^^« «f red feS o' ^^.^ '"^^^ the w^d this as s It I co,f.H" '.? •=?"' hi" Sdfht yr'^''^* aboSt fi^""^'" •"« would !«, ahk . " -"P^*" ""'nials at (hfa We associated with none but 0. to be possessed well instructed ith which they ne of them is a V moveable he nis reach ; and, t remembrance ipon him. eeze springing ti anchored the T did not get in prophecy was bay of Oheite- Jay, in anotlier 1 supply : here 9o, the king of 'had prepared I his very best t and modesty. Perhaps envy He made the [| about two or >f fine linen, a value than all id one of the mg and the [, followed by in quantity |s for a week. »art ; so that lone of them the great rho had not Id, bringing Ishe divided Ittle noticed [knowledge I encour- W him with tals at this histruction Besides, | [island, he )or Omai, )rudent a of every I none but cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. ii-22( vagabonds and strangers, whose sole views were to plunder him; and, if I had not interfered, they would not have left him a single article worth the carrying from the island. This neces- sarily drew upon him the ill-will of the principal chiefs, who found, that they could not procure from any one in the ships such valuable presents as Chnai bestowed on the lowest of the people, his companions." Captain Cook wa' next engaged in landing the poultry, with which he was to stock the island ; they consisted of a peacock and hen, a turkey-cock and hen, a gander and three geese, a drake and four ducks. All these he left at Oparee, in the possession of Otoo ; and the geese and the ducks began to breed before he sailed ; at Oparee he found a gander, which the natives said was the same that Captain Wallis had given Oberea ten years before, several goats, and the Spanish bull ; which latter could have been of no 4ise, if Captain Cook had not arrived, as the Spaniards, had left no cows ashore; probably they died in their passage from Lima. Captain Cook sent three cows to this bull ; and the bull which he himself had brought, with the horse, and mare, and sheep, he put ashore at Matavai ; he likewise planted a piece of ground with several articles very few of which he believed the natives would ever look after. Some melons, potatoes, and two pine- apple plants, were in a fair way of succeeding before he left the )lace; he also planted several shaddock-trees, which he had jrougnt from the Friendly Islands. These, he thought could lardly fail of success, unless their growth should be impeded jy the same premature curiosity which destroyed a vine planted by the Spaniards at Oheitepeha. A number of the natives got together, to taste the first fruit it bore ; but, as the grapes were still sour, they considered it as little better than poison, and it was unanimously determined to tread it under foot. In that state Omai found it by chance, and was overjoyed at the discovery : for he had a ftiU confidence, that if he had but grapes, he could easily make wine. Accordingly he had sever-al slips cut off from the tree, to carrj[ away with him ; and the remainder of it was pruned and put in order. Perhaps, becoming wise by Omai's instructions, they may now suiFer the fruit to grow to perfection, and not pass so hasty a sentence upon it again. As Captain Cook intended to continue here a considenible time, they set up the two observatories on Matavai Point ; and, adjoining to them, two tents were pitched for the reception of a guard, and of such people as might be left on-shore, in different departments. The command at this station was intrusted to Mr. King, who al»o attended the astronomical and other observations; while he remained here the crews of both ships were occupied in many necesssary operations. The Discovery's main-mast was carried ashore, and made as ^ood as it had ever been. The sails and water-casks were repaired ; both the ships were caulked ; and the rigging was completely over-hauled ; they likewise inspected 224 ;r:r:°-— '-. o«a Iriends. wJins^T ^^^ renewed hU i«* jecond voya J. aL^»;?f are recorded V v'"'^"''^^ ^*th his Spaniards hid' carW^J^'^-^.^^ere, one of L^^?*'*'«"«* oHiL Plough nottoheZi^-\ *i^'^ ^« ^^^ Da ITT^ ^^«°^ ^e was introduced to 1^?^ I "^^^^^ -^^ ^^««or T^ '^i^''''^^- ^^ono: -r" - he :'o^?d'^-^ ^e did not m ioZ\;'z t!'ri'^ , V\^e also fonnrl h » ^ ^ accost him - lavounte passion • i^fl^ "^ curiosity, or n^^i ^^'^ ^^at we pursuit of othrt/av^fe^^ Zf'y «««» Kiv^l-'^'"^ ««ie tfaat he preferred f^If S^entlemen h Zla^P^^^*^^ of the *o ours ; for al^uT Tt«^ a«d even ilh /"^^^^t^ however Adnnral/B^^^*^««gi» I gave hil^ som, .f JT ^"^^rvmen' ^-hioh I a^dded f chest of? ?^^^d ^:;„tt«^ .^hicr^"; present from mv^jff f *3«H and a t'ewnih^'' ^ .«««> (to ,%«. This iSP'Jl,tfTi ^^aMem'^^ff^^^^^^ JL-ima, mav Hp i.r«^^^ " "*at of the nAt.*,^^ i^'** after a fpw *--%,, o? rerfLgl\Pr/^^^' ~^^ '-"^ ^lij interrupted by acr,V?^l^ ^^^'"^ed at C£f T'*^ "**"^ eluded that even Ow'V' and, perhans .V '^^ ^P^ and ^nghsh nianneirJiM -^ "^^^ ^ad imbibeTnl ^ V^. ^^ eon- ^""?. like OecSdee ^d^ ,? ^ .^^'^ shoTtime ffS*^* ^^ ^^^^e ' "Js. These, and /jy""'l'=°"'e to mZvTL "/ ""^ "*' «'« foned, gave f he "tory^* ""l"'!, <"><=umsta„ces wl. T ^ "'^'^ ' 'or, although England ). found that hixi ourse with hia iccount of hia ves, whom tihe i him a visit, om the rest of i^ords. Among en a stiunger Hid accost bin he young man s Heete-heete. it him hack in Vew Zealand, oard my ship, 1. He was at nan who had were aa fre- ther. Heete- in Otaheite tion, that we s some otheo ►bjects of the mtj, however, countrymen, , whicn our his use, (to rticles, as a after a few td been at isity natural fy age, and [ay be con- the whole ur leaving ;o his own inibrmed \y the pre- ] produced of one. of |ne of tlie or tliree [he men- that tJie I boat, to of their Cngland 4 COOS'S THIRD VOYAGE;, 1776 — 1780. •:25 and Spain were at peace when he left England, he did not knov/ but that a different scene might by this time have opened. Upon inquiry, however, they had reason to imagine, that the narrator of the story had imposed upon them ; and this was put beyond all doubt, when Mr. Williamaon returned the day fol- lowing, who made his report to Caj)tain Cook, that he had been at Oheitepeha, and found that no ships were there at present nor had any been there since he left it. The people of this part of tlie island, where they now were stationed, told them, indeed, at first, that it was a fiction invented by those of Tiaraboo. But what view they could have, he could not conceive, unless they sup- posed that tlie report would induce them to quit the island, and thus deprive the inhabitants of Otaheite-nooe of the advantages they might otherwise reap, from our ships remaining there ; the natives of the two parts of the island being inveterate enemies to each other. Since they arrived at Matavai, the weather.had been unsettled till the 29th ; before which day, our officers were unable to get equal altitudes of the sun for ascertaining the going of the time-keeper^ The caidking, and other repairs of the ships, were also retarded by the same cause. In the evening of tnia day, tlie islanders made a precipitate retreat, both from our land station, and from on-board the ships, and it was conjectured, that tliis arose from their knowing that some theft had been rxwnmitted, and apprehending punishment on that account. At length, the whole affair became known, one of the surgeon's mates had made an excursion into the country to purchase curiosities, and had taken with him four hatchets, for the pur- pose oi' exchange. Having been so imprudent, as to employ a native to carry them, the fellow took an opportunity of running off with so valuable a prize. This was the reason of the sudden flight, in which Otoo himself, and all his family, had joined ; and, ii was with difficulty that the captain stopped tliem, after following them for the space of two or three miles. As he had determined to take no measures for the recovery of the hatchets, tliat his people for the future might be more upon their guard against sucli neghgence, every tiling quiclily resumed its former tranquillity. The next morning, some messenj>ers arrived from Eimeo, with intelligence, that the people of that island were in arms ; a«d, that Otoo's partizans there, had been obliged by the oppo- site ptu^y, to retreat to the mountains. The quarrel between the two islands, which began in 1774, had partly subsisted ever since. A formidable armament had sailed, soon after Captain Cx)ak ld*t Otaheite, in his last voyage ; but, the mal-contents of Eimeo, had made so gallant a resistance, that the fleet had re- turned wil^iQut success ; and now, another expedition was deemejl necessaty. On the arrival of these messengers, the chiefs assembled at Otoo's house, where tlie captain actually was at that, time, and had the honour of being admitted into their L 5 226 m : h. i:'! COOK'S T„,ft„ vov.o., me-mo. council. Oneoffhp ^ "'o— 1780. posed by others^r' ^" *^« ««ca^^on^ ^,1° ^^"?^« t'^e Ota- the debate, w^Vrr^n"^"''..^^^'"^^ commendil ^"n?. ^«« «P- decorum. AMenWh T ^"^« ^«"ied Tn S^ ji^'*/**^^^/ ^ and and the capfel h"5^ however, they became vS^*J "'^f '^ ^"d dude like a P^itW *^ ^^^ct, that thei? TpI^^ tumultuous, fest as they ire WW '^*^*- ^"^ ^h^ coSiW ll"^/^^"^? «««- the end tT/^n *^r""^ »nd order was^^T^^M^"^^*' ^««Jed, as though not uni^T*^ ^7 ^^^ Prevaiird ^H^^v^ ''^stored. In Eimea OtorS"^^^^ fH^ ^ «tro„^force^hn ^^J«««Ived, as interpreter bu?«''l'^^"^^ ^^ke. Omaf w^r'" .^f ^^"»« of «nder tKec^ss^t'of ^' 7^^^ "^t be found ?L'"^ /^''^ ^« ^ct. deatCii'-u'/rr S:'^''''"''^ oautd'?!"",^ t" t"^ nephew of the deceZrf ^i. '" "PPosition toTi^L^ P"' '» I^ettaha, and who S hi ""^^ ^"^ ^he chief of fh. r * • fent against Eimeo in i,?/^"^^'^^^' i" ch ef of i. ; "'^ '^ this time • ami lu ' i ^^^^^ happened nnf Vi u tne armament /' appea;edrtt';^'?'^irh"°^p"«-^^^^^^ It.^?' »' transacted- anr? Tk Vt* "at he was no sfrarl^ ^onsultatiojis. Seni? f" orrjr-^/^^^^^^^ siness witli a hich was, to cite the Ota- riion was op- itilities; and at order and tumultuous, would con- fs cooled, as estored. In as resolved, 1 be sent to >ate. Those plied to the desirous of it for, to act iptain being n, as well as the dispute, 3 least cause ities against appeared to , before the e afternoon, lirn, at the r, in whose ssed. The amodation, o any such •^ On our informed, Tiaraboo, ular chief een there e put to iboonooe, heir, or, I, to suc- listrict of Irmament [atavai at iltatioiis. that vas it eager- pssenger [man, to assist- COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE, 1776 — 1780. '2-27 ance of the deity against Eimeo. This ceremony, was to be performed at the great moral, at Attahooroo ; and, Otoo's pretsence was necessary on the occasion. Captain Cook, was desirous of being present at this solemnity, and therefore, pro- nosed to Otoo, that he might be permitted to accompany him. To this, the king readily consented; and they immediately set out in the captain's boat, with his old friends Potatou, Mr. Anderson, and Mr. Webber, while Omai followed them in a canoe. In their way, they landed upon a small island, lying off Tettaha, where they found Towha and his attendants. After a little conversation between the chiefs, on the subject of the war, Towha addressed himself to the captain, sohciting his assistance. When he excused himself, Towha seemed displeased, thinking it rather extraordinary, that one who had constantly declared him- self the friend of their island, should now refuse to fight against its enemies. JBefore they parted, Towha gave to Otoo two or three red featiiers, tied up in a tuft : our party then re-embarked, liav- ing taken on-board a priest, who was to assist at the solemnity. As soon OS they landed at Attahooroo, which was about two o'clock, Otoo desired, that the sailors might be ordered to con- tinue in the boat ; and, that Captain Cook, Mr. Anderson, and Mr. Webber, would take off their hats, as soon as they should come to the morai, to which they immediately proceeded, at- tended by numbers of men, and some boys ; but, not one wo- man was present. They found four priests, with their assistants, \vaiting for them. The dead body, or sacrifice, was in a small canoe, that lay on the beach, fronting the morai. Two of the priests, with several of their attendants, were sitting by the canoe, the otliers at the morai. Our gentlemen stopped at the distance of twenty or thirty paces from the priests. Here, Otoo placed himself; our gentlemen, and a few others, standing by him, while the majority of the people, remained at a greater distance. The ceremonies now commenced ; one of the attendants of the priests, brought a young plantain-tree, and laid it down before the king: another approached, bearing a small tuft of red feathers, twisted on some fibres of the cocoa-nut husk, with which he touched one of Otoo's feet, and afterwards retired witli it to his companions ; one of the priests, who was seated at the morai J now began a long prayer ; and, at particular times, sent down young plantain-trees, which were placed upon the sacri- fice. During this prayer, an islander, who stood by the offi- ciating priest, held in his hands two bundles, in one of which, as they afterwards found, was the royal maro ; and the other, if we may be allowed the expression, was the ark of the Eatooa, The prayer being finished, the priests at the morai, with their assistants, went and sat down by those who were upon the beach, carrying the two bundles with them. They here renewed their prayers, during which the plantain-trees were taken, one by one, at various times, from off the dead body, which being hJi COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE, 1776-^1780. [ '228 HSiri Ate„?:^„ ?fflr^i^- -o^ ^e„ Otoo turned to c"p^4f„V"*'Tfi»H ■naWn/a^oiJi,,*?,? 7""^ n«,r ^k-T"* "'^ "len earned a ffi""'* P'Offnostie. ' "hTbSs?/ea *«« fi'^Pi tTCS* 'f ^ "",*" *'«; «he tufts of ?edWK"*''* P'«''«'' ^i a pirt of 1"°""'^ '?«'-''«'i men were permitted *i^ ''"'""•*^ tfaemseW^'Trf 1***^ '"'1>' seemed to Ve which con- picuous part 'es of cloth, undies were ootofthem. the corpse^ ' dug a hole the victJTn '.rll'' 'V-> , aii'i cook's TillRI) VOYAGE, 177G— 1780. 229 and covered it over with stones and earth. While they were oonuiiitting the body to the grave, a boy squeaked aloud., upon wfiich Omai said to Captain Cook, that it was the Eatooa. A fire having been made in the mean time, a lean, half-starved dog was produced, and killed by twisting his necK. The hair was then singed off, and the entrails being taken out, were thrown into the fire, where they were left to be consumed ; but the kidner, heart, and liver, were only rOanted, by being put on heated stones ; and the carcase of the dog, after being rub1)ed over with the blood, was, with the liver, &c. laid down before the prie0tfi^ who were seated round the grave, praying. They, for some time, uttered ejaculations ov^ the dog, while two men, at intervals, beat very loud on two drums : and a boy screamed a loud, shrill voice, three times. This, they said, was to invite m tlie Eatooa to feast on the banquet that they had provided for him. Wlien the priests had fuaished their prayers, the body, heart, liver, &c. ot the dog, were placed on a whatta, or scaf- fold, about six feet in height^ on which lay the remains of two (^er dogs, and of two pigs, which had been lately sacrificed : the priests and attendants now give a kind of shout,^ which put an end to the ceremonies at present. The evening being arrived, our gentlemen were conducted to a house belonging to Potatou, where they were entertained and lodged for the night. Having been informed that the religious rites were to be renewed the next morning, they would not quit the place while any thing remained to be seen. "Some of them repaired to the scene of action early in the morning, and soon fk'tenvards, a pig was sacrificed, and laid upon the same scaffold with the others. About eight o'clock, Otoo took the party again to the morai, where the priests, and a great tnultitude of people, were by this time assembled. The two bundles occupied the place where they had been deposited the preceding evening ; the two drums were in the front of the morai, and the priests were stationed iKj^ond^them, The king placed himself between the dnims, and desired C^tain Cook to stand by him. The oeremony of this day began with bringing a young plantun4ree^ and placing- it at his mtg ester's jTeet. A prayer was then rejpotttefd by the priests, who held in Iheir hands several tuils of red feal^ers, and also a plunQieofostiidli feathers, which the commodoM presented to Otoo on his fii«t arrival. When the priosta h^d ended the prayer, they changed their station, and placed themselves between our gentlemen and the morai-. One ol' theiii, the same who had performed the principal part on the preceding day, be^an another praver, which continued near half an hour. During this prayer, the tufts of red feathers were piit» one by one, upon the ark of the Eatooa. Not long after, fouripigs were produced, one of which was immediately killed, and the three others were taken to a neighbouring sty. One of the bundles was now untied ; and it was found to 1 ! s I I d30 doth, used byXLTr^ ■" «>«"'ommo„*«'r'''»Pr'>''«bly about the ;,ze "*H*"' "-S? ?nd then sewed taLj"^^ "P°° ^on^e^ofX rJn\^'7!t"^. ^^^cf. ]*, wa», that the &«3„'' "^««ence they obtaked r^'-^'*^ I;™) was concealed irit'T?;^" "hat « suppSfn f'^^''^ , Thep?C'h^r£ lT'd-«*rthSrthin"?h'e''',.^*"^ »te entrails t»lr^L .^ Killed, waj? hv fj.; !^- ^" '"® other. convuKe * il" °"'i.*?««^ '^appe^ed^tn L*'"'^ ^Jeaned, and able omenT^he iS^^"^ *^« ^ai^coZ'dered ,^^"^^" * Parts! sometime thp L?^?''^^ ^^Pedition Tft^r I -^ ^ ^^^y favour' Priests WhSenn'^^? ^^'■^ carried and Wl*'^'"^ ^^P««ed for put upon the/caffdd „. "'«''?'"' '*» «verXrt ^ ""■""» '"«' then all the fi.»J^ ° '"'«''« the dot h»H k. S*'"- '^ere now wy upon each 'r^?*'*^^-""^. bread-fruit fish 1 5 if^ ^ »*<>^«». belonff tntuL^ .^^^ "ava^ »«om2* tt. "^ 5°^ other articles I cook's third voyage, 1776—1780. 231 the people, but it did not appear that they had fixed upon him on account of his having committed any particular crime that deserved death. It is certain, however, that they usually select such guilty persons for their sacrifices, or else, vagabonds, who have no visible way of procuring an honest livelihood. Our gentlemen having examined the body of the unhappy sufferer, now offered up to the object of these people's worship, observed, that it was bloody about the head and face, and much bruised upon the right temple, which denoted tlie manner in which he had been killed. And they were informed that he had been knocked on the head with a stone : the wretches who are des- tined to suffer on these occasions, are never previousljr apprized of their fate. Whenever any one of the principal chiefs deemti a human sacrifice necessary, on any great emergency, he fixes upon the victim, and then dispatches some of his trusty servants^ who fall upon him suddenly, and either stone him to r'jath, or beat out his brains with a club. The sovereign is next acquainted Avith it, whose presence is said to be absoluteljr requisite at the solemn rites that follow ; and, on the late occasion, Otoo bore a capital part. The solemnity itself is termed Poore Erce, or the prayer of the chief; and the victim is called Taataloo, or consecrated man. The moral, where the late sacrifice was offered, is always appropriated for the burial of the king of the whole island, and likewise of his family, and some other persons of distinguished rank. It differs little, except in extent, from the common morait. Its principal part is a large oblong pile of stones, about thirteen feet in height, and contracted towards the top, with a quadran- gular area on each side, loosely paved w\ti\ pebbles, under which the bones of the chiefs are deposited. Not far from the end nearest the sea is the place of sacrifice, where is a very large whatta, or scaffold, on which the offerings of fruits, and other vegetables are placed, but the animals are laid on a smaller one, and the human sacrifices are interred under the pavement There are several relics scattered about the place, such as small stones raised in various parts of the pavement, some with bits of cloth fastened round them, others entirely covered with it ; and upon the side of the large pile fronting the area, are a great number of pieces of carved wood, in w^iich their gods are sup- posed to reside occasionally. Tliere is a heap of stones at one end of the large scaffold, with a sort of platform on one side. On this they deposit all the sculls of the human sacrifices, which they take up after they have remained under ground for some months. Just above them, many of the carved pieces of wood are placed; and herp the marOy and the other bundle, supposed to contain the god Ooro, were laid during the celebration of the late solemn rites. It is probable that this bavbarous custom of offering human victims prevails in all, or most of the islands of the Pacific J ! I OV7 cook's third voyage^ 177 u — 1780. i^/ fi i'ri Ocean, however distant from each other some of them may be. And though we should suppose that not more than one person is sacrificed at one time, either at Otaheite, or the other islands, yet these occasions in all probability, occur so frequently, as to make a terrible havoc of the human species ; for Captain Cook reckoned no less than forty-nine sculls of former victims lying before the moral, at Attahooroo : and as none of those skulls appeared to have suffered any considerable change or decay from the weather, it may be inferred, that but a short time had elapsed since these victims had been offered. This horrid practice, though no consideration whatever can make it cease to be detestable, might, perhaps, be thought less detrimental, in some respects, if it contributeo to impress any awe for the Deity, or veneration for religion, upon the minds of the spectators. — But this was so far from being the case on the late occasion, that though a vast multitude of people had assembled at the tnorai, they showed very little reverence for what was transacting. AndjOmai happening to arrive after the ceremonies had begun, many of the islanders thronged round him, and were engaged for the remain- ing part of the time in making him recount some of his adven- tures, to which they listened with great eagerness of attention, regardless of the solemn offices which their priests were then per- forming. Indeed the priests themselves, except the one who sustained the principal part, either from their being familiarized to such objects, or from their reposing no great degree of confi- ffence in the efficacy of their religious institutions, maintained very little of that solemnity which is necessary to give to acts of devo- tion their proper effect. '^Their habit was but an ordinary one ; they conversed together with great familiarity ; and the only attempt tliey made to preserve decorum, was by exerting their authority, to prevent the populace from encroaching on the very spot where the rites were performed, and to suffer our gentlemen, as stran- gers, to come forward. They were, however, very candid in the answers which they gave to any interrogatories that were put to themwitli regard to this inhuman institution. And, particularly, on being asked, what the design of it was, they replied, that it was an ancient custom, and was highly agreeable to their god, who came and fed upon the sacrifices : in conseciuence of which, he granted their petitions. It was then objected, that he cer- tainly did not feed on these, as he was neither observed to do it, nor were the bodies of the sacrificed animals soon consumtu; and that as- to tlie corpse of a human victim, they preventt'd hi.s feeding on that, by interring it. In answer to these objectiuns, tliey gave it as their opinion, tliathe came in the night, invisibly, ami fed only on the soul, or immaterial part, which, (these peo- jiie say) remains about the place of sacrifice, till the carcase of tlie victim ia totally wasted by putrefaction. .. .. Human sacrifices are not the only barbarous custom that still prevails amof\gst the inhabitants of Otaheite, Uiough, in many cook's THillD VOYAGEj 1776—1780. £33 lem may be. 1 one person ither islands, uently, as to aptain Cook dctims lying^ those skulls fe or decay ►rt time had This horrid e it cease to rimental, in )r the Deity, tators. — But that though moral, they And|Omai many of the the remain- his adven- r attention, i'e then per- e one who amiharized ?e of conli- tainedvery its of devo- one; they ly attempt authority, spot where as stran- did in the ere put to rticularl}', id, that it fieir ^od, of which, t he cer- to do it, nsunieu; ntf d his jectioHii, nvisibi), ese peo- rcase of hat still I nuuiy other respects, they have emerged from the brutal manmrs of savage life. Besides cutting out the jaw bones of their enemies slain in battle, which they carry about with them as trophies, they,i.» some measure, offer up their bodies to the Eatooa. Soon after an engagement, in which thevhave come off victorious, they collect all the dead, and bring them to the worat, where, with great fonn and ceremony, they dig a large hole, and bury them all in it, as so many offerings to their divinities. They treat in a different manner their own chiefs who fall in battle , their late king Tootaha, Toubourai-tamaide, and another chief, who were all slain in an engagement with those of Tiara- boo, were brought to the tnorai at Atahooroo. There the priests cut out their bowels before the great altar; and their dead iDodies were afterwards inters J in three different places, near the great pile of stones above mentioned ; and the common men who lost tlieir lives in the battle, were all buried in one hole, at the foot of tlie same pile. This was performed the day after the battle with much pomp and formality, amidst a numerous concourse of people, as a thanksgiving offered to the deity for the victory they had obtained the preceding day. The vanquished, in tlie mean time, had taken refuge in the mountains, where they remained upwards of a week, till the fury of the victors began to abate. A treaty was then set on foot, by which it was agreed, that Otoo aliould be proclaimed king of the whole island ; and the solem- nity of investing him with the maro, or badge of royalty, was performed at die niorai, with great magnificence. At the close of the very extraordinary scene exhibited at the moral, the party embarked about twelve o'clock, in order to re- turn to Matavai; and in their way, paid a visit to Towha, who had continued in the little island, wliere tliey met him the pre- ceding day. Some conversation about pubhc affairs passed be- tween Otoo and him ; and the latter entreatfd Captain Cook, once more, to join them as an ally in their war against Eimeo. By his positive refusal, he entirely lost the good opinion of this cliief. Before they separated, he interrogated our gentlemen con- cerning the solemnity at which they had been present ; and gtsked particularly, if it answered their expectations; what opinion they entertained of its efficacy ; and whether such acta of worship were frequent in tJieir own country ? They had been silent dm*ing the celebration of the horrid ceremony ; but as soon as it was completed, freely expressed tlieir sentiments upon the sulject to Otoo and his attendants ; consequently Captain Cook did not conceal his detestation of it in this conversation \\\i\\ Towlia. Elxclusive of the barbarity of the bloody custom, he urged the unreasonableness of it; alleging, that such a sacriHte, histead of making the Eatuua propilious to their nalion, v^ould exoite his veiigtiHire ; and that, from lliis very clrcuinHtai.ce, he concluded that their hitended expedition against Maheine \\ould \ ii v\ •* \i\ I I' 1.1 m 234 ri *>€ extrempiv o ^"" ^"^h spirit fhaf ^kJ u- i- "" "^ ^up- ^e I) and would not hpar a « ,, ^{^"^ed, »ia of each ofSi K^?™ "ere two women a,!L "'."F '" « ''O-*; SJe P^rt/Sed'lt'ter "^ '.'eve? "Vc^S "°^f «' i a greater entertainment to the anrnf ™,''.''^' seemed to sparingly '^'"■- return f'nt iVom the not !0. t lengths upon mistaken ; for, the island^ one t, and the third Jnder these cir* Ian of mihtary access. Omai sentiments to e ; and he sup. lef appeared to led, that if he s he had done »m an ignomi* maeno ! (vile ! Many of the ; the servants ioned the pun- 1 the greatest listened very hought differ- )paree, where d in the even- pportunity of their private in a house ; man behind |he women at he assembly rbed in the ny notice of [ng. When ark. Here \as or plays, Icharacters : :o enter the case when this occa- [itted them- comic in- leemed to Ivas nume- the next mother, n-board, Ifi'om tlie had not Idance of cook's third voyage, 1776—1780. 385 « I company and provisions. On the 4th, a party of them, among whom was Otoo, dined ashore with Omai, who provided excel- lent fare, consisting offish, fowb, pork, and puddings. Dinner being over. Captain Cook accompanied Otoo back to his dwel- ling, where he found all his servants busy in getting a quantity of provisions ready for him. Amongst other articles there was a large hog, which they killed in his presence : a large pudding, the whole process in making which, the captain saw. It was composed of bread-fruit, plantains, taro, and palm, or pandanus' nuts, each rasped, scraped, or beat up very hne, and baked by itself. A quantity of the juice of cocoa-nut kernels was put into a kind of wooden tray. The other articles, hot from the oven, were put into this vessel, together with some hot stones, in or- der to make the contents simmer. Three or four persona were employed in stirring up the several ingredients, till they were perfectly incorporated, and the juice of the cocoa-nut was turned to oil ; so that the whole mass, at last, was nearly of the con- sistency of a hasty-pudding. The hog being baked, and the pudding being made, they, together with two living hogs, some bread-fruit, and cocoa-nuts, were sent on-board the captain's sliip in a canoe, followed by him and all the royal family. A young ram of the Cape breed, that had been lambed, and caxefully brought up on-board Captain Cook's ship, was killed by a dog the following day. Tl ia was the more to be regretted, as it was the only one of that breed that they had ; and only one of the English breed was now remaining. On the 7th, in the evening, our men exhibited some fire-works before a vast concourse of people, some of whom were highly entertained, but the greater number were much terrified with the exhibition ; insomuch, that they could hardly be prevailed on to keep together, to see the whole of the entertainment. What concluded the business was a table-rocket. It flew off the table, and dispersed the whole crowd in an instant ; even the most resolute amongst them now fled with precipitation. " On the 8th of September," says Captain Cook, " a party of us dined with our former shipmate Oedidee, on fish and pork. The hog weighed about thirty pounds ; and it may be worth mentioning, that it was alive, dressed, and brought upon the table within the hour. We had but just dined, when Otoo came and asked me if my belly was full ? On ray answering in the affirmative, he said, ^ Then come along with me.' I accordingly went with him to his father's, where I found some people em- ployed in dressing two girls with a prodigious quantity of fine oloth, after a very singular fashion. The one end of each piece of cloth, of which there were a good many, was held up over the lieads of the girls, while the remainder was wrapp ' round their bodies under the arm-pits ; then the upper ends were let fall, and hung down in folds to the ground, over the other, so as to bear some resemblance to a circular hoop petticoat. Afterward, M i r , » r '' ? r; t, i- 1 'i>. •i I i 1 1 i. 1 • ill 1 .;! ■' i i w :' V i>3G COOK S THIRD VOYAGE, 17 rC round the outside of all ^^^' '' ''-''''' ^veight of this singular atf.il '''' ^^''^' ^" circu a'd^^ sunnorf T^ °"^huidr attire was as murh n« fK^ "i^un, and th^^ Sr; r- ;?,'!''«'' h'.dlTe'sS"^'''' """"""y "'hero " ooth Captain Clerke and [ had piLf, •' " P^f-s^t before • buf and .:;:l^^^S'«i"^Cook reeeiv a p^.ent of five ho. • Sm nfT' , ^" inquiry " savs hi « r r*""*^^^ "^^^ the resi. we arrived at the place %ti!,'"^ *« ^'^^^^ lar^e canoes W.''' rt..efac^i^„t'e^rd tceuTt", "^ -•''5~">«/'S Ti 1 "^ notest, and IW 1..^ if , "' thoiiffh the rlin. f. o%:';y 'T^'^^^^^ "iteratiot^^^^^^^^^ ^bov? four mo"^ ' tlVr'^"?^»^r parts and eves • t f T'^'l"?^^ wa.j a shrink tJieir original «tafe, and .f!i?!^,.^"^ ,% hmr and nails were " " adhered hrmly; and the several ). pieces of diilPer- secl the size, so jircuit, and the poor girls could )reast-plates, by iresque appear- -board the shiji, iiit, which, with r. Persons of ? / but I believe } of cloth are to >n any other oc- Qt before; but, afterward, thus nt of five hoj^3, ome fruit from n great plenty : Q by the natives I were sold on- s of the crews, h, he treated a is three sisters N and elegant, lese islands, lad now in view e near the resi- t to he the re- s at this island nore elegantly a pretty large 1 one of those noes. When and \^Tapped sire, the man )on a kind of w of it as '^^ "he pales tu-d ' *he coi-]ise, \d as to pro- o".ij entire : was, tliat was not the the dim ite )ur monti :s. la shrink in iC ils vvere in the several H Iff i nil 11 J 'I ?a cook's third voyage, 177C — 1780, 237 joints were quite pliable, or in that kind of relaxed state which happens to persons who faint suddenly. Such were Mr. Ander- son's remarKs to me, who also told me, that on his inquiring into the method of effecting this preservation of their dead bodies, he had been informed, that soon after their death they had been disembowelled, by drawing the intestines, and other viscera^ out at the anusi and the whole cavity is then filled or stuffed with cloth introduced through the same part ; that when any moisture appeared on the skin, it was carefully dried up, and the bodies afterwards rubbed all over with a large quantity of perfumed cocoa-nut oil ; which being frequentlv repeated, pre- served them a great many months ; but that at last they gradu- ally moulder away. This was the information Mr. Anderson received ; for my own part, I could not learn any more about their mode of operation than what Omai told me, who said, that they made use of the juice of a plant which grows amongst the mountains, of cocoa-nut oil, and of frequent washing with sea- water. I was also told, that the bodies of all their great men who die a natural death, are preserved in this manner ; and that they expose them to public view for a very considerable time after. At first they are laid out every day when it does not rain ; after- ward, the intervals become greater and greater ; and at last they are seldom to be seen." , ITiev quitted Oparee in the -evening, leaving Otoo and all the royal family ; the captain saw none of them till the I2th ; when all, except the chief himself, honoured liim with a visit : he was jjone, they said, to Attahooroo, to assist at anotlier human sacri- fice, sent by the chief of Tiaraboo to be ofiiered up at the morai. This second instance, within so short a period, was a melancholy proof that the victims of this bloody superstition are very nume- rous amongst this humane people. The captain would have been present at this sacrifice also, had he been earlier informed of it, but now it was too late. From the same cause he missed being present at a public transaction at Oparee the preceding day, when Otoo, with great solemnity, restored to the adherents of the late king Tootaha^ the lands and possessions of which, after his death, they had been deprived. Otoo returned the next evening from exercising this most disagreeable of his royal duties; and, the next day, being honoured with his company, the Captains Cook and Gierke mounted on horseback, and rode round the plain of Matavai, to the astonishment of a vast train of spectators. Once or twice before this, Omai had, indeed, attempted to get on a horse, but he had as often fallen off before he could contrive to seat himself properly ; this was, therefore, the first time they had seen any body on horseback ; what the captains had begun, was repeated daily by one or other of our people; and yet the curiosity of the natives continued unabated. After they had seen the use that was made of these animals, they were greatly delighted with i ; lil H :r< -fi^. ' f. nutted R«TY ""^^n^ to his reL^W«? ^^^?^ and rob Some of 1»« ^^^^^ the tents betw^."!^^ 9en»nd their post • Some of his own , ^®"ts between Vhl -'"^ their post • Peaces ; and as hi/f'?f ^^ ^«»tinua% kenf "I^'' ?"^ the^^a' 'ended them in /hf " [ ^i'^rounded bv tU.^ ^^^ajavai Point, our ••eody to receive con ^^Jk^J^'^^^ that parsed in fhV^'^ *" «PPo^ connected witrorpel"l^"lf'r «»^h g ri^^^^ «"? ^«^« Wir; so that the mp«! '^ \'^^*'^ ^as usS T ^^'^ PrivateJy answered the i^^^"''^^ taken bv himT^^ ^^"® ^very mom *^« 1 6th, attended bvM "^^^,' accord^lv fh "" '"^^^ ^»th curred that was interest^"* ^"^^''^on. N^SJ^^ «^t out on ! presented somp n^I "."^ ^^ curious • PfL ^^ nowever, oc- •"ony, and a?eV« ^''\^^«^^ ^nd hoffs tooF ^'^^ ^^'« ^ollow^s tjyeen them andPsl'^* i^''' '^^^ oo^lL""''^ some c^ ! ^ineo; EtaryatfirsM? "^^^^^ ^^^^^^ about thl?" ^ ^«^d be- «t length over^ruIef'^^JTP^^^^d of it; bS Ws nv'^P^^^^^^" to y^ too Jate to deh-h. J aPPt'ired, indeed ki^J^^**«"s were »"«r, a messenger arr^^^^^^ MPon ^is business 1"'^.* ^^^ that it ^If^'^ bu t^atTe t^"'"^^"^ "thit'^tSe^ had T" »v^ mconsiderabJe. *^^ '««« or advantage on .i.?"* ^^? '-^ape ewes • all «^k' 1 , " of an EnffJish iJJlT , to leave uoon Etary, that if he ,v1m , '"'"'§¥ before t^\ Y'* *'» '''««' •'""ndone of S-lTo'^ ^^t'"" '^*o"'„ot ?£»,'' '" I I 1] 1 r r 1] w t] ti VI b it, n< in Ti wi th fn cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. 239 y conveyed to ions, than all Tied amongst )oIa, removed nded by seve- ipprove of his Hid more con- jknowledgei obberies, and 3w were com- id their post ; and the sea. in all these '^ai Point, our not only de- lad an oppoT- ly ; and were ^ere privately 5 every morn- ! their safety, ing his own ,was required le greatper- ompany him meet with set out on pwever, oc- foUowers some cere- as held be- pedition to ctions were day, that it the even- had been ither side loming of taking lave upon land three All the Kt advisa- [this view 30sed to luld have It started IS %* some objections, but -at last agreed to it : however, as the cattle were putting into the boat, one of Etary's followers opposed the making any exchange whatever. Tlie captain, upon this, suspecting that Etary had agreed to the arrangement, for the present, only to please him, dropped the idea of an exchange, and finally determmed to leave them all with Otoo ; whom he strictly enjoined not to suffer them to be removed from Oparee, till he should have got a stock of young ones ; which he might then dispose of to his friends, or send to the neighbouring islands. This matter being settled, our gen- tlemen left Etary and his party, and attended Otoo to another place not far distant, where they found the servants of a chief waiting with a hog, a pig, and a dog, as a present from their master to the king : these were delivered with the usual cerenio- nies, and a harangue, in which the speaker inquired after the liealtli of Otoo and of his principal people. This compliment was reechoed in the name of Otoo, by one of his ministers ; and then the dispute with Eimeo was formally discussed : the depu- ties of this chief were advocates for prosecuting the war with vigour, advising Otoo to offer a human sacrifice on the occasion ; but a chief who constantly attended the person of Otoo opposed it, seemingly with great strength of argument. The captain was now confirmed in his opinion, that Otoo never entered heartily into the spirit of this war ; he received repeated messages from Towha, urging him to hasten to his assistance. Having dined with Otoo, our party returned to Matavai, leaving him at Oparee : this day and the 19th, they were very sparingly supplied with fruit ; Otoo being informed of this, he and his brother, who had particularly attached himself to Captain Gierke, came from Oparee with a large supply for both ships : all the royal family came the next day with presents, so that they now had more provisions than they could consume. The water being all on- board, and every thing put in order, the captain began to think of quitting the island, that he might have sufficient time for visiting others in this neighbourhood. They therefore removed their observatories and instruments from the shore, and bent the sails. Early the next morning, Otoo came on-board to inform Cap- tain Cook, that the war canoes of Matavai, and of three other districts, were going to join those belonging to Oparee and that part of the island, and that there would be a general review there. The squadron of Matavai was soon after in motion ; and, after parading for some time about the bay, assembled ashore near the middle of it. Captain Cook now went in his boat to take a survey of them. What they call their war-canoes, which are those with stages on which they fight, amount to about sixty in number ; there a»e nearly as many more of a smaller size. The captain was ready to have attended them to Oparee; but the chiefs soon after 4i P I ill «< 12 U cook's Tinilli VOYAGE, 177G — 1780. S>* ■ ^^r; l" •* < "*« ' ' m formed a resolution, that they should not move till the next daj : tiiis appeared to be a fortunate delay, as it afforded him an op- Eortunity of gettincf some insight into their manner of lightiny. [e therefore desired Otoo to give orders, that some of theni should go through the necessary mano?uvres : two were accord- ingly ordered out into the bay ; in one of which, Otoo, Captain Cook, and Mr. King, embarked, and Omai went on-board tiit other. When they had got suflicient sea-room, they faced, and advanced upon each other, and retreated by turns, as quick rts the rowers could paddle. During this, the warriors on the stages ilourislied their weapons, and played a hundred antic tricks, which could answer no other end, m the judgment of Captiiin Cook, than to work up their passions, and to prepare them fcr lighting. Otoo stood by the side of the stage, and gave the necessary orders when to advance and when to retreat : in this, great judgment, and a quick eye, combined together, seemed requisite to seize every advantage that might offer, and to avoid giving any advantage to the adversary : at last after advancing' and retreating to and from each other, at least a dozen times, the two canoes closed head to head, or stage to stage ; and, afur a short conflict, the troops on one stage w^ere supposed to be al! killed, and it was boarded by Omai and his associates. At this very instant, Otoo and all the paddlers leaped over-board, a.s if reduced to the necessity of endeavouring to save their lives by SAvimmin^. If Omai's information is to be depended upon, their naval en gagements are not always conducted in this manner: he said, they sometimes begin with lashing the two vessels together, head to head, and then fight till all the warriors are killed on one side or the other. But this close combat, it is supposed^ is never practised but "when they are determined to conquer or die : in- deed, one or other must happen, for all agree that they never give quarter, unless it be to reserve their prisoners for a more cruel death the next day. The power and strength of these islands He entirely in tlieir navies ; and our men never heard of a general engagement on land ; all their decisive battles are fought on the water. If the time and place of conflict are fixed upon by both parties, tiie ^receding da5r and night are spent in diversions and feasting. Toward morning, they launch the canoes, put every thing in order, and, with the day, begin the battle, the fate of which generally decides the dispute. The vanquished save themselves by a precipitate flight, and such as reach the shore fly with tlieir friends to the mountains ; for the victors, while their fury lasts, spare neither the aged, nor women, nor children, ^fhe next day they assemble at the morai, to return thanks to the Eatooa for the victory, and to offer up the slain as sacrifices, and the pri- soners also, if they have any. After this a treaty is set on foot, and the conquerors, for the most part, obtain their own terms ; 780. till the next chs •rded him an on. inner of ii^htiny ^t some of theni vo were accord h Otoo, Captain i ^nt on-board th, ' they faced, anc' rns, as quick os 3rs on the sta^re^ ed antic tricks ^ent of Capt*^i AOE, I//6— -1780. . , . , *" »ui AOE, 1/76—1780 I'e should Shahl ' J *' ?!""■<'' he had fnform.hr"^ *''« to receive on-board oil^ V ^^^^rmined upon wh ^l' **"^ followed Otoo Jo o'"'"^''^^ ^■«t"«ts. Canff r ^"T^^ ^^^re Soon after their ar?fv«r'^ ^^^o^panied by mJ kZ^' ^S""^^^'^ related the conih'r^^ messenger arrived frnm%^"^ ^'"^i for a limited tiWu^^^^^ P^^l^/or mZt^Titf^'"'' ^"^ aooommoSon j? ""^^'^'^ ^owha trsubmlt^n' !?• «^»^'"» r-enting theZatSe^heTS ^""^'^^/rW, t^^^^^ mediately after Captain p-t. received, had declared /^^^^ tore* ^ fo those nfrF ^^ <^ook's departure ho i? ™at, im- tht captain to IJlT^^?^' «"d attack Qtoo Tr"'^„J«^» *»'« '^^'--^t if hi ^^-^'^T^ ^hat he was detJZ; J. ^ *^«^ed upon P'ovcd of th^peace a'j.T'"' ""^ *■»*«' of Soohl^M'':;'^ "» f^^ce, and censured Tnw4.o <• ^ "'gWy disap- j^j ea low ha for concluding It. m S^, K^ 'W> .v*.^. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) // 1.0 I.I 1^12.8 |50 ■■■ 2.5 2.2 life \m i 1.4 1.6 .^. V] ^h A / Sciences Corporation 23 WIST MAIN STRUT WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 \ 4 4i <,1>^ V :\ \ '^\^^ %'^^'^ V 2A2 cook's TrililD VOY'.GE, 17:5 — ITEO. ■'Aif The old man wisely considered, that CLptain Cook's goin^ out, with them to Eimeo might have been of singular service to their cause, though he should not interfere in the quarrel. He there- fore concluded, that Otoo had acted prudently in waiting for the captain ; though it prevented his giving that early assistance to Towha which he expected. While they were debating on this subject at Oparee, a mes senger arrived from Towha. desiring the attendance of Otoo the next day at the nwrai in Attahooroo, to return thanks to the gods for the peace he had concluded. Captain Cook was asked to at- tend ; but being unwell he chose rather to decline it. DesiroiLs, however, of knowing what ceremony might be exhibited on m memorable an occasion, he sent Mr. King and Omai to observe the particulars, and reuirned to his ship, attended by Otoo's mother, his three sisters, and several other women. ^' At first," says Captain Cook, " I thought that this numerous train of females came into my boat with no other view than to get a passage to Matavai. — But, when we arrived at the ship, they told me, they intended passing the night on-board, lor the express pur- pose of undertaking the cure of the disorder 1 complained ol": which was a pain c»f the rheumatic kind, extending from the hip to the foot. I accepted the friendly offer, had a bed spread for them on the cabin floor, and submitted myself to their directions. I uas desired to lay myself down amongst them. Then, as many of them as could get round me, began to squeeze me with both hands, from head to foot, but more particularly on the parts where the pain was lodged, till they made my bones crack, and my ilesh became a perfect mummy. In short, after undergoing this discipline about a quarter of an hour, I was glad to get away fronn them. Howe> er, the operation gave me immediate relief, which encouraged me to submit to another rubbing down before I went to bed ; and it was so effectual that I found my- self pretty easy all the night after. My female physicians repeated their prescription the next morning before they went ashore, and again in the evening, when they returned oii-board ; after which I found the pains entirely removed: and the cure being perfected, they took their leave of me the following morn- ing. This they call romee / an operation which, in my opinion, far exceeds the flesh bnish, or any thing of the kind that we make use of externally. It is universally practised among these islanders ; being sometimes performed by the men, but more generally by the women. If, at any time one appears languid and tired, and :its down by any of them, they immediately begin to practise the romee upon his legs ; and I have always ^und it to have an exceedingly good effect." On Thursday, the 25th of September, Otoo, Mr. King, and Omai, returned from Attahooroo : and Mr. King gave a narra- tive of what he had seen to the following eflect : — " At sun-set ^ we embarked in a canoe, and left Oparee. About nine o'clock " COOKS THIRD VOYAGE. 1770 — 17S0. 243 .'s going out, rvice to their . He there- aiting for the assistance to paree, a mes e of Otoo the LS to the gods 8 asked to at- t. DesiroiLs, liibited on so [lai to observe ed by Otoo's his nnmerous V than to get a }hip, they told le express piir- >mplained ol"; from the hip led spread l\>r leir directions, 'hen, as many me with botli on the parts ,es crack, and r undergoing glad to get le immediate tubbing down I found my- ,6 physicians re they went d on-board : nd the cure iwing morn- ^ opinion, far lat we make mong these 11, but more ars lanj?uid iately begin ays found it [. King, and [| Vve a narra- r At sun-set Line o'clock we landed at that extremity of Tettaha, which joins to Attahooroo. The meeting of Ot(»o and Towha, I expected would be interest- ing. Otoo and his attendants seated themselves upon the beach, near the canoe in which Towha sat. He was then asleep ; but being awakened, and Otoo's name mentioned to him, a plantain- tree and a dog were immediately laid at Otoo's feet ; and several of Towha's people came and conversed with him. After 1 had ibeen for some time seated close to Otoo, Towha never stirring [from his canoe, nor saying anv thing to us, 1 repaired to him. i He asked me if Tootc vias displeased with him ; I answered, no ; [that he was his faio ; and that 1 was ordered to go to Attahooroo, [to let him know it. Omai then enteretl into a long conversation : with this chief, but I could not gather any information from him. — On my returning to Otoo, he desired that I should go to eat, and then to sleep ; in consequence of which Omai and 1 left him. On questioning Omai on that head, he said Towha was lame, and therefore could not stir; but that Otoo and he would soon converse together in private. This was probably true ; for those we left with Otoo came to us in a little time; and about ten minutes after, Otoo himself arrived, when we all went to sleep lin his canoe. " The Ifava was given the next morning in great plenty. — One j man drank to such excess, that he lost his senses, and appeared to be convulsed. He was held by two men, v. ho busied themselves in plucking off his hair by the roots. 1 left this spectacle to see a more aftecting one. It was the meeting of Towha and his ivife, land a young girl, who was said to be iiis daughter. After the j ceremony of cutting their heads, and di.sdiarging plenty of blood and tears, they washed, embraced the chief, and seemed perfectly unconcerned. But the young girl's suttevings were not yet con- cluded. Terridiri (Oberea's son) arrived ; and she, with great composure, repeated those ceremonies to him which she had just performed on meeting her father. Towha having brought a war [canoe from Eimeo, I inquired if he had killed the people belong- jing to her; and was informed, that there was not a person in her : when she was captured. "About ten or eleven o'clock, we left Tettaha, and landed [close to the morai of Attahooroo early in the afternoon. Three •ano68 lay hauled upon the beach opposite the morai, having three i hogs in each. We expected the solemnity would have been per- formed the same afternoon ; but nothing was done as neither jTov'ha nor Potatou had joined us. A chief came from Eimeo, [with a small pig and a plantain-tree, which he placed at Otoo's ieet. They conversed some time together, and the Eimeo chief [ often repeated the words, fVarry^ IFarry^ (false.) Otoo was probably relating to him what he had heard, and the other contradicted it. ** The next day, Towha and Potatou, with seven or eight large canoes arrived, and landed near the morai. Several plantain- M 2 'l :.'' t m 'i4l cook's THIIID VOTAOE, 1776— 1780. trees were brought to Otoo, on behalf of different chiefs. Towlw remained in his canoe. — The ceremony was commenced by the principal priest, who brought out the maro, wrapped up, and a bundle of a conic shape. These were placed at the head ol wliat I supposed to be a grave. Then three priests sat down at tJie other end of the grave ; bringing with them a plantain-tree, the branch of some other kind of tree, and the sheath of the flower of the cocoa-nut tree. *' The priests separately repeated sentences ; and at interval; two, and sometinne':* all three, chanted a melancholy ditty, very little attended to by the natives; this kind of recitative con- tinued near an h jur ; then, after a .short prayer, the chief priest uncovered the waro, and Otoo rose up, and wrapped it al»iit him, holding in his hand a bonnet^ composed of tne red featlier.> of the tropic bird, mixed with other blackish feathers. He stood opposite the three priests, who continued their praytis for about ten minutes, when a man rising suddenly from the crowd, said some- thing ending with heiva, and the crowd echoed back to him three times Earcc I The company then repaired to the opposite side of a Iprge pile of stones, where is the king's wiorai,* which is not much unlike a large grave. — Here the same ceremony was again performed, and ended with three cheers, ^fhe maro was now wTapped up, and ornamented by the addition of a small piece of red feathers. ^* The people now proceeded to a large hut near the inom, where they seated themselves in solemn order. An oration wa* then made by a man of Tiaraboo, which ended in about ten minutes ; lie was followed by a man of Attahooroo : Potatoti spoke next, and witli much more fluency and grace than any ot them. Tooteo, Otoo's orator, exhibited after him, and then a man from Eimeo. Some otlier speecUt « were made, but not at- tended to. Omai said, tliat the substance of their speeches recommended friendship, and not fighting ; but as many of the speakers expressed themselves with great warmth, there were. perhaps, some recriminations and protestations of their future good intentions. In the midst of tlieir harangues, a man of AttahooroA rose up, having a sling fastened to his waist, and a large stone upon his shoulder. After parading for about flfteen minute» in the open space, and chanting a tew short sentences, he tlire^v the stone down. This stone, together with a plantain-tree, that lay at Otoo's feet, were, at the conclusion of the speeches, carried to the moral s one of the priests, and Otoo with him, saying sonie- thing upon the occasion. " Returning to Oparee, the sea-breeze having set in, we were i obliged to land, ana had a pleasant walk from Tettaha to Oparee. ' A tree, with two !arge bundles of dried leaves suspended upon if, pointed out the boundary of the two districts. We were accom- panied by the man who had performed the ceremony of the stone and sling. With him Otoo's father held a long conversation, and ifi I I ^ cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. •ilj chiefs. Towlia menced by the pped up, and at the head oi its sat down at plantain-tree. sheath of the id at intenaLi )ly ditty, very recitative con- ic chief priest pped it a)»ut le red featliers rs. He stood lytis for about awd^saidsomf- k to him thre^ positeside of a ch is not much ny was again naro v*as now a small piece ear the rnorai, n oration wa^ in about ten ►roo: Potatou ;e than any of and then a le, but not at- leir speeches I many of the there were, ir future good \i' Attahooroo large stone teen minuter is, he tiiren lin-tree, tliat ?hes, carried paying soine- |in, we were to Oparee. ' | ied upon it, vere accom- >f the stone rsation, and appeared extremely angry. He was enraged as i understood, at fiie part which Towha liad taken in the F^inieo business."' I'rom what can be judged of this solemnity, as related by Mr. King, it had n(»t been wholly a thanksgiving, as Omai told them, but rather a coiitirmation of the treaty. The grave mentioned by Mr. King, appears to be the very spot where the celebration of tlie funeral rites began, when the human sacrifice was offered, at which ('aptain (^ok was present, and before which the victim was laid. It is here also that they first invest the kings with tlie maroj' Omai, who had seen tlie ceremony when Otoo was made king, described the whole s(»lemnity when they were here; which is nearly the same as that now described by Mr. King ; though, perhaps, upon a very diflerent occasion. The plantain-tree i.s ^ihvays the first thing introduced in all their religious ceremonies, as well as in all their public and private; debat<»s; and probably on many other occasions. While 'Powha was at Eimeo', he sent one or more messengers to Otoo every day. Every messenger at all times carried a young plantain-tree in his IkiikI, which he laid at the feet of Otoo, before he mentioned his errand; then seated himself before liim and related the imrticulars of Ills message. VV^lien two mew are in such high dis|.)ute tliat blows are expected to ensue, if ojie should lay a plantam-tree before tlie otlier, they both become cool, and i>roceed in the argument without further animosity. — It is, indeed, the olive branch of these people upon all occasions. As they knew that the ships were upon the point of sailing, they all paid them o visit on the 26th, and brought more hogs with tliem than were wanted; for having no salt left to preserve any, our men had fully sufiicient for present use. Captain Cook accompanied Otoo the next day to Oparee ; and before he left it, took a survey of the cattle and poultry, which he had consigned to his friend's care. Every thing was in a promising u-ay ; and seemed properly attended to. Two of the geese, as well as two of the ducks, were sitting; but the pea-heu and turkey-hen had neither of t lem begim to lay. He took four goats from Otoo, two of which he intended to leave at Ulietea ; and to reserve the other two for the use of any otlier islands lie might touch at in his passage to the north. "A circumstance,"says Captain Cook, ''which I ^I.JI now men- tion, will shew, tliat these people are capable of much address and art, to gain their purposes. Amongst otlier things which, at dif- ferent times, I had given to this chief, was a spy-glass. After having it in his possession two or three days, tired of its novelty, and probably finding it of no use to him, he carried it privately to Captain Clerke, and told him, that as he liad been his very good friend, he had got a present for him, which he knew would be very agreeable. * But,' says Otoo, * you must not let Toote know it, because he wants it, and I would not let him have it.' He then put the glass into Captain Clerke 's luinds ; at the same ill * i ilii cook's third voyagf, 177G — 1780. J time assuring him, that he came honestly by it. Captain Clerke at first declined accepting it: butOtoo insisted upon it, and left it with him. Some days after he put Captain Clerke in mind of tlic glass; who, though he did not want it, was yet desirous of obligiiiff Otoo ; and thinking that a few axes would be of more use at tliis island, produced four to give him in return. Otoo no sooner saw this than he said, ' Toote offered me five for it.' — * Well,' says Caj)- tain Clerke, * if that be the case, your friendship for me shall not make you a loser, and you shall have six axes.' These he accepted ; but desired again, that I might not be told what he had done. " Our friend Omai got one good thing at this island, for resent fro.^i him to the Earee rahie no Prttane; it beir," the only thing he c ''«' that be could send worth his ma- jesty'fi acceptance. 1 was no^ a little pleased with Otoo, for thLs mark of his gratitude. It was a tliought entirely his own, not cook's third voyage, l?7G— 1780. •iJ7 jjtain Clerke if, and left it mind of the s of obligiiiff e use at tliis J sooner saw 11/ says Cap- br me shall .' These he old what he and, for I lie ine, double, sea. Some ours, but he md patched the number if iiis vessel, Jple to look jpean port, sh, French, aurs he had 30 an Eng- lich I now )ck of cloth , but mucli insomuch, ? behaved ]ie did, ill who, to- entirely ery thing iceeded in aking the But even ired these us to hi8 had in- der, by lile I re- ell nof I, that lie le, and *rctane; his ma- Ifor this m, not I J one of us having given him tlie least hint about it; and it shewed tiiat he fidly understood to whom he was inde!)ted for the most valuable pi-esents that he had received. At iirst 1 thought that tliis canoe had been a model of one of their vessels of w^r; but 1 soon found that it was a small evaa, about sixteen feet long. — It was double, and seemed to have been built f(U- the purpose ; and was decorated with all those pieces of carved work whicii they usually tix upon their canoes. As it was too large for me to take on-board, I could only thank him for his good intention ; but it would have pleased him much better if his present could iuive been accepted. ** The frequent vis'.ts we had lately paid to this island, seem to have created a full persuasion, that the intercourse will not be discontinued. It was strictly enjoined to me by Otoo, to request in his name, the Earee raltie no Pretane, to send him, by the next ships, red feathers, and the birds that produce them, axes, half a dozen muskets, with powder and shot, and by no means to forget horses." \Vlien these people make a present, it is customary for them to state what they expect in return, and it is found convenient to gratify them ; by which means the presents come dearer than what IS got by barter. Captain Cook, in general, paid for each separate article as he received it, except in his intercourse with Otoo. — His presents were so numerous, that no account was kept between him and the captain. Whatever he asked for, it' it could be spared, the captain never denied him, and he always found him moderate in his demands. (^ptain Cook woidd not have quitted Otaheite so soon as he did, if he could have prevailed upon Omai to fix himself there, iia there was not even a probability of being better suj)plied with provisions elsewhere, than they continued to be here, even at the time of leaving it Besides, such a friendship and confi- dence subsisted between our men and the inhabitants, as could hardly be expected at any other place ; and it was rather extra- ordinary, had never been once interrupted or suspended by any accident, or misunderstanding ; nor had there been a theft com- mitted worthy of notice. It is probable, however, that their re- gularity of conduct resulted from their fear of interrupting a traffic, which might procure them a greater sliare of our com- modities, than they could obtain by plunder or pilfering. This point, indeed, was in some degree settled at the Iirst interview with their chiefs after the ships' arrival, for Captain Cook de- clared then to the natives, in the most decisive terms, that he would not suffer them to rob his people^ as they had fonnerly done. Omai was smgularly useful in this business, being in- structed by the captain to point out to them the happy conse- quences of their honest conduct, and the fatal mischiefs that must attend a deviation from it. But the chiefs have it not always in their power to prevent thefts ; tliey are often robbed themselves : S48 COO.-S r„.«„ VOVXOE, ,„«_,;,,. things that 0#^« • "® ^owt of evils Ti. inquiry iSif; '*' **** ^'^^n tliey denaS >^P "'**'*^^ arrived. ' by the inscrint^^ " '"' ^'^"ty months E."J»"y '^ ^r a longer ""Sinally found Zln'tte7,l'^'S'^^ """»' ™Proved th« h, . island: afterh 1/^° u* '^^"^'""aWy. vSw i. '*^P^**a; but ^ere (o settle on ih ■ i^^ f^mals, and men 3 *'""^ '^^^ Captain Cook/adid, Ztlf ferKh^rnti^erai:^ «e to Matavai Fort, ^S"& "''•3''" ««"™. 'hey ' wmch he stud was ours .- the U should not come cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. 14<) lost valuable re left in the fd; Otoo de- safe. From lilfering must lible of this, diesis. Ihe ;^prized; and !)aptain Cook ;re eight feet ipth. Locks ; but it must consequently could never ards arrived, ore he made 1 of the iTica- ilate, or note for a longer er, appeared nation of the Oheitepeha, vhich was in I consisted of of another I ram, and idea pleased him ; but he did not consider that the completion ((fit would deprive him of his kingdom, and the people of their liberties. Their occasional visits may have been of service to its inhabitants, but, (considering how most European establish- ments are conducted among Indian nations] a permanent esta- blishment amongst them would, probably, give them just cause to lament that our ships had ever discovered it. Indeed, a mea- sure of this kind can hardly ever be seriously thought of, as it can neither answer tlie purposes of public ambition, nor of pri- vate avarice.* It has been already observed, that Captain Cook received a visit from one of the two natives of this island, who had been taken to Lima by the Spaniards : it is somewhat remarkable ihat he never saw him afterwards, especially as the captain received him with uncommon civility. The captain, however, supposed, that Omai had kept him at a distance from him, from motives of jealousy, he being a traveller that in some degree nri^ht vie with himself. Their touching at Teneriflfe was a lucky circumstance for Omai ; who prided himself in having visited a place belong- ing to Spain as well as this man. Captain Clerke, who had seen the other man, spoke of him a£ a low fellow, a little out of his senses ; and his own countrymen entertained the same opinion of him. In short, these two adventurers seemed to be held in little or no esteem. Tliey had not been so fortunate, indeed, as to return home with such valuable property as had been bestowed upon Omai : whose advantages from going to England were so great, that if he should sink into the same state of insigniiicance, he has only himself to blame for it. On the 30th of September, at day-break, after leaving Ota- heite, the ships stood for the north end of the island of Eimeo. Omai, in his canoe, arrived there before them, and endeavoured, by taking some necessary measures, to shew the situation. They were not, however, without pilots, having several men of Ota- heite on-board, and not a few women ; but, unwilling to rely entirely upon these guides. Captain Cook dispatched two boats to examine the harbour; when, on a signal being made for safe anchorage, they stood in with botli the ships, and anchored in ten fathoms' water. Taloo is the name of this harbour : it is on the north-side of the island, and in the district of Oboonohoo or Poonohoo : it runs above two miles between the hills, south, or south-by-east. It is not inferior to any harbour thev had met with in this ocean, both for security and goodness of bottom. It has also this sin- gukir advantage, that a ship can sail in and out with the reign- ing trade wind : several nvers fall into it ; one of which is so considerable as to admit boats a quarter of a mile up, where the >vater is perfectly fresh. The banks on the sides of this stream • The history of tlie world, IwwfTer, fumisTies many instances of public ambition ami private avarice grasping at smafler, and less velnable domains than etaheite.- £^/. Mo I t ] 'I •ir>o cook's third voyage, 17rC— 17«0. I are covpred with what the natives call the pooroo tree, on which they set no value, a.s it only serves for firing, so that wood and wafer may be procured here with great facility. The harbour of Parowroah, on the same side of the island, is about two miles to the eastward, and is much larger within than that of Taloo ; but the opening in the reef lies to leeward of the harbour, and is considerably narrower : these striking defects must give the harbour of Taloo a decided preference. There are one or two more harbours on the south-side of the island, but they are not so considerable as those already mentioned. As soon as they had anchored, great numbers of the inhabi- tant's came aboard the ships from mere motives of curiosity, for they brought nothing with them for the purposes of barter : but several canoes arrived the next morning from more distant parts, bringing with them an abundant supply of bread-fruit, cocoa- nuts, and a few hogs, which were exchajiged for beads, nails, and hatchets ; red feathers not being so much demanded here as at Otaheite. On Thursday, the 2nd of October, in the morning. Captain Cook received a visit from Maheine, the chief of the island : he approached the ship with as great caution and deliberation as if he apprehended mischief from our men, as friends of the Ota- heiteans ; these people having no idea that a person can be in friendship with any one, without adopting his cause against his enemies. This chief was accompanied by his wife, who they were told, is sister to Oamo of Otaheite, whose death they heard of while remaining at this island. Captain Cook made fhem pre- sents of such articles as seemed most to strike their fancy ; and after staying about half an hour they went on-shore : they re- turned soon after with a large hog, meaning it as a return for the captain's favour; but he made them an additional present to the full value of it, after which they went on-board the Discovery to visit Captain Clerke. Maheine, supported with a few adherents, has made himself in some degree, independent of Otaheite. — He is between fort^ andfifty years of age, and is bald-headed, which^ at that age, is rather uncommon in tliese islands. He seemed ashamed of shewing his head, and wore a kind of turban to conceal it: whether they considered this deficiency of hair as disgraceiul, or whether they supposed that our men considered it in that light, it is not easy to determine. The latter, however, appears the most probable, from the circumstance of tlieir having seen them shave the head of one of the natives whom they detected steal- ing. They naturally concluded, therefore, that this was the kind of punishment inflicted upon all thieves ; and some of our gentlemen whose heads were but thinly covered with hair, were violently suspected by them of being tetos. Towards the evening. Captain Cook and Omai mounted on horsebick, and rode alonji' the shore : Omai having forbid the TUHii) vnvAci::, 1770 — 17S(). ^ J I m which mod and island, is thin tiinn rd of the f dt^fects . Tiiere e island^ oned. e inhabi- osity, for rter : but uit part;}, t, cocoa- Is, nails, d here as Captain land : he tion as if ' the Ota- :au be in gainst his lie they y heard jem pre cy and |they re- turn for esent to icovery 1 himself jn forty age, IS led of :eal it: >ful_, or |t light, iT3 the them steal- las the lof our were id on lid the natives to follow thrni, tiio tnun was not very nunicrcius : tiie fear of giving offence having got (he better of tlieir curiosity. Thelleetof Towha had been stjitionedin this har))()ur, andthougii tlie war was but of short duration, (he marks of its devastation were every where consi)icin)'is. The trees had lost all (heir fruit, and the houses in the neighbourhood had been burnt, or otiierwise destroyed. Having made every preparation for sailing, the shijir! was hauled off into the stream in the morning of (he Gth, inten(Ung to put to sea the next day, but a disagreeable accident prevented it. Captain Cook had, in the day-time, sent the goats ashore to graze ; and. notwithstanding two men bad been appointt^d to look after them, one of tliein had b.en s'Kden this evening; this was a considerable loss, as it interierod nith the captain's views of stocking oth« r isian^ls v, i»h these animals, he, therefore, was detennined, if j)ossible, to reo(»ver it. He received intelli- gence the next morning, that it had been conveyed to IMaheine, who was at that time at ParoAvroah harbour. 'i\\o elderly men offered their services to conduct any of oiu* people to him, in order to bring back the goat, accordingly (lie. cajjt un dispatched some of his people in a boat, charged v/ith a message to that dnef, and insit led cm l;oth the goat and tl;e tiiief being imme- diately ^iven vio. Maheme had, only the day before, requested the commodore ix) give him two goats, but, as he could not spare them, without depriving other islands which had none of these animals, and wns informed that there were two already upon this, he refused to gratify him. — Willing, howe\er, to assist his \iews in (his respect, he desired an Otaheilean chief then present, to beg Oioo, in his name, to convey two of these animals to IMaheine : and, to induce him to comply with this request, sent to Otoo, by the same chief, a quantity of red feathers, c(iual in value to the two goats that were required. — The commodore expected that Maheine, and all the other chiefs of the island, would have been perfectly satisfied with this arrangement; but he was mistaken, as the event clearly proves. Little suspecting that any one would presume to steal a second, while the necessary measures were taking to recover the first, the goats were again put ashore this morning ; and a boat, as usual, was sent for them in the evening. While our people were get- ting them into the boat, one vvas conveyed away undiscovered; as it was immetiiately missed, they expected to recover it without much trouble, since it could not have been carried to any consider- able distance. Several of the natives set out different ways to seek after it ; for they all endeavoured to persuade our men, that it must have strayed into the woods, not one of them admitting that it was stolen. They were, however, convinced to the con trary, when they perceived that not any of the pursuers returned ; their intention was only to amuse our men till their prize was %\ r i ' mi E ( arri cook's THIUI) voyaoe, 1776—1780. Hafely deposited ; and, night comin^i^ on, prevented all furtlie*' Mearcli. At this instant, the boat returned with tlie other gout, and one of the |)ersons who had stolen it. Most of the inhabitants, the next inoniing, were moved of)', taking with them a corpse, which lay opposite the ship on a toopupaoo ; and Maheine it was said, had retired to the remotest part of the island. It now plainly appeared that a regular plan had been projected to steal what the commodore had refused to give ; and that, having restored one, they were determined not to part with the other, which was a female, and with kid ; and the commodore was equally determined to have it back again ; he, therefore, applied to the two elderly men, who had been in- Htruraental in recovering tlie first, who informed him that this had been taken to a place on the south-side of the island, called Watea, by Hamoa, who was the chief of that place ; but that it would be delivered up if he would send for it. lliey expressed a willingness to conduct some of his people to the spot ; but, finding tl'.at a boat might go and return in one day, he sent one with two of his ofKcers, Mr. Roberts and Mr. Shuttleworth ; one to remain with the boat, if she could not get to the place, while the other went with the guides, accompanied by so iie of our jieople. The boat returned late in the evening, when Captain Cook was informed by the officers, that, after Ltroceeding in the boat, as far as rocks and shoals would permit, Mr. Shuttleworth landed ; and, attended with two marines and one of the guides, proceeded to the house of Hamoa, at Watea, where they were for some time amused by the people, who pretended they had sent for the goat, and that it would soon be produced. It how- ever, never arrived ; and night approaching, Mr. Shuttleworth was obliged to return to his boat without it. The commodore lamented that he hnd proceeded so far in this business, as he could not retreat with credit, and without giving encouragement to other islands to rob him with impunitv. Con- sulting with Omai and the two old men what method to take, they advised him, without hesitation, to go into the country with a party of men, and shoot every person he should meet with. — The commodore did not approve of this bloody counsel : but, early the next morning, set out with thirty-five of his people, accompanied by Omai, one of the old men, and three or four attendants. He also ordered Lieutenant Williamson roimd the western part of the island, with three armed boats to meet them. This party had no sooner landed, than the few remaining na- tives fled before them. The first person they met with upon the march was in a kind of perilous situation ; for Omai, the instant he beheld him, asked Captain Cook if he should shoot him, so fully was he persuaded that the advice he had given was imme- diately to be carried into execution. The commodore then gave orders, both to him and the guide, to let it be made known that cook's third voyage, 177G — 1780. VQ3 it was not their intention to injure, much less to destroy a sinj^le native ; these joyful tidings soon circulated, and prevented the iliglit of the innabitants. Ascending the rid^e of. hills on the road to Watea, they were infonned tiiat the goat had been carried the same way, and could hardly have passed the hills : tliey therefore marched up in great silence, expecting to surprise the party who were bearing off the prize : but when arrived at the uppermost plantation, tliey were told that the animal they were in search of had indeed been kept there die first ni^ht, but had been curried to Watea the next morning. They made no further inquiry till within sight of Watea. where they were directed to Hamoa's house by some people, wlio also informed them that the goat was there. ^J'hey therefore fully expected to obtain it on their arrival, but wlien they readied the bouse, the people denied that they had ever seen it, or knew any 'hing concernuig it. Hamoa himself appeared, and expressed himself to the same efiect. On first coming to Watea, several men were seen running to and fro in the woods with clubs and darts in their hands ; and Omai, who ran towards them, had stones thrown at him : hence it appeared that they intended to oppose any attempt that Cap- tain Cook and his men might be induced to make, but on seeing the strength of the party, had given up the design ; what confirmed this opinion was that all tneir houses were empty. After collecting a few of the natives together, Omai was di- rected to expostulate with them on the absurdity of their conduct, and tell them that Captain Cook had received suflicient evidence that the goat was in their possession, and that if it was not imme- diately delivered up, he should burn all their houses and canoes ; but, notwithstanding this expostulation, they persisted in their denial of having any knowledge of it. In consequence of which tlie commodore set tire to six or eight of their houses, and two or three war canoes, which were presently consumed. After this tliey marclied off to join the boats, which were, at that time, about seven or eight miles from tliem, and, in the road, burnt six other war canoes, without any opposition. On the contrary, many of the natives assisted them, more perhaps from fear than any other motive ; at length Omai, who was at some distance before, came back with information that a multitude of men were assembling to attack them. They prepared themselves to receive them, but instead of enemies they were petitionerfc;^, with plantain-trees in their hands, which they laid down before our men, entreating the commodore to spare a canoe tliat lay close by, which he readily complied with. About four o'clock, in the afternoon. Captain Cook arrived at Wharrarrade, where the boats were waiting for him. The clistrict of Wharrarrade belongs to Tiarataboonoue ; but this chief, to- gether with the other principal people of the place, had fled to the hills ; though they made no attaclc upon their property, tliey i r i ' i i" ' i 254 COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE, UTG- heite in the invasion of hL7 ,?",«■!" T^»' hVfid,?,''^^'' 'bout an honr lor the shi'p.s 'ut no tidings le operations in dispatched peremptory up the g-oaf, i.tiiat hostil- wned in his _at the coin- 's presence^ lead of the n-board, to ^t the place y attended, oyed seven ^^n in the t had been ■[om good he inhabi- t it. But Ifninff. he h. s^ eqnalJy He V, as IS at Ota- ' obliged perhaps, xt morn- ts to the tey were ed' and inioved, ](i, mth int and ^red for J-woo.l, ihere is <; they bread en the ■nee in : hue, ice to ^ has p:::ii -I ■f: f:i" cook's Taini) voyage, 1776—1780. •255 little low Ian 1, except some deep valleys, and the flat border that almost surrounds it near the sen. Eimeo has steep, rugged hills miming in different direction, leaving large vidleys, and gently rising grounds about their sides. The hills, thoi.gh rocky, are generally covered with trees almost to the tops. At the bottom of the harbour of Taloo, the ground gradually rises to the foot of tlie hills ; but the flat border on the sides becomes quite steep at a small distance from the sea. This renders it a prospect superior to any thing at Otaheite. In the low grounds the soil is a yellow- ish, stilF mould ; on the lower hills it is blacker and looser, and the stone which composes the hills is of a blueish colour, inter- spersed with some particles of glimmer. Near the place where the ships were stationed v/ere two large stones, concerning which some superstitious notions are entertained by the natives : they consider them as brother and sister; that they are Euioousqy divinities, and that they come from Ulietea, by some supernatural means. On the morning that succeeded their departure from Eimeo, they saw Iluahcine extending from south-west-by-west, to west- by-north. At twelve o'clock, anchored in ihe northern entrance of Owharre harbour, situated on the west-side of the island ; thnai, in his canoe, entered the harbour just before them, but did not land. Though many of his cruntrymen crowded to see him, he did not take much notice of t;«em ; great numbers also came off" to the ships, inson(uch that they were greatly incom- moded by them ; the passengers immediately informed them of the transactions at Eimeo, multiplying, by ten at least, the number of houses and canoes that our men had destroyed. Captain Cook was not much displeased at their giving this exaggerated account, as he found that it made a considerable impression upon all who heard it, so that he had hopes that it would induce the natives of tills island to treat him in a better manner tlian they had done in his prior visits. '" Our arrival here," says Captain Cook, " brought all the principal people of the island to our ships. This was just what I wished, afi it was high time to think of settling Omai ; and the pre- sence of these chiefs, I guessed, would enable me to do it in the most satisfactory manner. He now seemed to have an inclination to establish himself at Ulietea ; and if he and I could have agreed about the mode of bringing the plan to bear, I should have had no objections to adopt it. His father had been dispossessed, by tlio men of Bolabola, when they conqueredUlietea, of some land in that island, and I made no doubt of being able to get it restored to t he son in an amicable manner. For that purpose, it was necessary that he should be upon good tenns with those who were now masters of the island ; but he was too great a patriot to listen to any such thing ; and was vain enough to suppose that I would reinstate him in his forfeited lands by force. This made it im- possible to fix him at Ulietea, and pointed out to me Huaheineas l^i* r--.? i^5€ cook's third voyage, 1 770 — 1780 the proper place. I, therefore, resolved to avail myself of tlie presence of the chief men of the island, and to make tliis proposal to them* ** After the hurry of the morning was over, we got rtrady to pfty a foniKil visit to Taireetareea, meaning then to introduce this business. Omai dressed himself very properly on the occasion, and prepared a very handsome present for the chief himself, and anomer for his Eatooa. Indeed, after he had got clear of the gang that surrounded him at Otaheite, he behaved with such prudence as to gain respect. Our landing drew most of our visitors from the ships ; and they, as well as those that were on- shore, assembled in a large house. The concourse of people on this occa^sion was very ^eat : and, amongst them there appeared to be a greater proportion of personable men and women than>ve had ever seen in one assembly at any one of these new islands. Not only the bulk of the people seemed, in general, much stouter and fairer than those of Otaheite, but there was also a much greater number of men who appeared to be of consequence, in proportion to the extent of tlie island, most of whom had exactly the corpulent appearance of the chiefs of Wateeoo. We waited some time for Taireetareea, as I could do nothing till the Earee rahie came ; but when he appeared, I found that his pre- sence might have been dispensed with, as he was not above eight or ten years of age, Omai, who stood at a little distance from this circle of great men, began with making his offering to the gods, consisting of red feathers, cloth, &c^ Then followed another offering which was to be given to tlie gods by the chief; and after diat, several other small pieces, and tufts of red feathers were presented. Each article was laid before one of the com- pany, who, I understood, was a priest, and was delivered with a set speech or prayer, spoken by one of Omai's friends, who sat by him, but mostly dictated by himself. In these prayers, he did itot forget his friends in England, nor those who had brought him safe back. The Earee rahie no Pretane, Lord Sandwich, Toote, Tat^ (Cooke and Gierke) were mentioned in every one of them. When Omai's o^ierings and prayers were finished, the priest took each article, in the same order in which it had beer ^^id before him, and, after repeating a prayer sent it to the moral /which, as Omai, told us, was at a great distance, otherwise the offerings wfHild have been made there. ** These religious ceremonies having been performed, Omai sat down by me, and we entered upon business, by giving the young chief my present, and receiving his in return; and, all things considered, they were liberal enough on both sides. Some arrangements were next agreed upon as to the manner of carrying on the intercourse betwixt us ; and 1 pointed out the mischievous ociisequences that would attend their robbing us, as they had done diiririg my former visits. Omai's establishment was then proposed to the assembled chiefs. cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. 257 " He acquainted them, * That he had been carried bv us into our country, where he was well received by the great king and his Earees, and treated with every mark of regard and affection while he staid amongst us ; that he had been brought back again, enriched by our liberality with a variety of articles, which would prove very useful to his countrymen ; and that besides the two tiorses which were to remain with him, several other new and valuable animals had been left at Otaheite, which would soon multiply and furnish a sufficient number for the use of the islands in the neighbourhood. He then signified to them that it was my earnest request, in return for all my friendly offices, that they wo:ild give him a piece of land to build a house upon, and to raise provisions for himself and servants ; adding, that if this could not be obtained for him in Huaheine, either by gift or by purchase, I was determined to carry him to Ulietea and fix him there.' "Perhaps I have here made a better speech for my friend than he actually delivered, but these were the topics I dictated to him. I observed, that what he concluded with, about carry- ing him to Ulietea, seemed to meet with the approbation of all the chiefs ; and I instantly saw the reason. Omai had, as I have already mentioned, vainly flattered himself that I meant to use force in restoring him to his father's lands in Ulietea, and he had talked idly, and without any authority from me, on the subject, to some of the present assembly ; who dreamed of nothing less than a hostile invasion of Ulietea, and of being assisted by me to drive the Bolabola men out of the island. It was of consequence, therefore, that I should undeceive them ; and, in order to do this, I signified in the most peremptory manner, that I neither would assist them in such an enterprise, nor suffer it to be put in exe- cution while I was in their seas ; and that if Omai fixed himself in Ulietea, he must be introduced as a friend, and not ibrced upon the Bolabola men as their conqueror. " This declaration gave a new turn to the sentiments of the council. One of the chiefs immediately expressed himself to this effect : — 'That the whole island of Huaheine, and every thing in it were mine, and that, therefore, I might give what portion of it I pleased to my friend.' Omai, who, like the rest of his coun- trymen, seldom sees things beyond the present moment, was greatly pleased to hear this, thinking, no doubt, that I should be very liberal^ and give him enough. — ^But to offer what it would have been improper to accept, I considered as offering nothing at all ; and, therefore, I now desired, that they would not only assign the particular spot, but also the exact quantity of land which they would allot for the settlement. Upon this, some chiefs, who had already left the assembly, were sent for ; and^ after a short consultation among themselves, my request was granted by general consent, and the ground immediately pitched upon adjoining to the house where our meeting was held. The COOKS THIRD VOYAGE l--Q_ ^ervato^riL Th'^^'^^ ^'^""^^i^^^ed^ Zst .t^ «^ «" Parties, fevera other vSm'"!!' "'"^-^PPles/melo^t I'i f?' '"» .'"e. «la„d. «'""? '» be .„ a flo»rislu„ntJb3bre^«rt ?^ " Omai now be»»„ „_• . "^ ^ '^^ ""e Omai now be«u, „ • , "*'"-"'»*'<»■« I left U,. iiad latejy been hi S ;. ^"^ ^^»ese did not nln„/i i^**""*-^*^^; discover fhlf ./. ^ ?»» other relations r , ^"'nder hnn^ as lie sjon of propertv nA -1 '^^•^^S m all such rom^ v"^ of secu- o^all thi poorer «.? *'"^'^ individual need fi. "".T''^'^^ * diffb- of others who are /n '1? ^^ ^« »"ited to fn1ur?J -^^'^ *^^ ^^^^^-^ ?nt with Omai hIT^^I ^^i? objects of envi \ ""^ exclusive], n a great measure f'^ ^"^ ^'^^ ^mon^t S ^l ''''' ^^""^^ ^«er- ^meWeS se'o ^t»^ -^ "*^^^ Princ^le of T^f^n'^K '^•^^"^^''^ principal daS L *''^"* "^^"ral feelings Rnf '''", ^*^^'^^'« ^he J"'-» ""opting to 14°;^;""' "•'^' »» -oSd'htS' to "cmseives, might be in- I cook's Tin Hi) VOYAGE, 17 7 C — 1780. 259 WO hundred what more; B grant. ' all parties, cted the ob- set to work t secure tlie ? same time, 'or his usej ihe seeds of he satisfac- B I left the affairs, and it Otaheite. her-in-Iaw; him, as lie lowever, to any injury, 3 him any [ice to pro- 5 situation, of being he should behaviour rresistible )roper prin- )e in- ■^1 duced to take him under their patronage, and protect him from the injuries of others. He promised to follow my advice; and I heard, with satisfaction, before I sailed, that this very prudent step had been taken. Not trusting, liowever, entirely to the operati(m of gratitude, I had recourse to the more forcible mo- tives of intimidation. W^ith this view, I took every opportunity of notifying to the inhabitants, thrt it was my intention to return to their island again, after being absent the usual time ; and that if I did not find Omai in the same state of security in which I was now to leave hin:, all those whom I should then discover to have been his enemies, might expect to feel the weight of my resentment. This threatening declaration will jirobably have no inconsiderable effect. For our successive visits of late years have taught these people to believe that our ships are to return at certain periods ; and while they continued to be impressed witli such a notion, which I thought it a fair stratagem to confirm, Omai has some prospect of being permitted to tlirive upon his new plantation." While they remained in this harbour, they carried the bread on-shore to clear it pf vermin, as the number of cock-roaches that infested the ship at this time is almost incredible. The damage sustained from them was very considerable, and every attempt to destroy them proved fruitless. If any kind of food was exposed for a few minutes, it was covered with these noxious insects, who soon pierced it full of holes, so that it resembled a honeycomb. They proved particularly destructive to birds which had been stuffed for curiosities, and were so fond of ink, that they ate out the writing on the labels fastened to different articles ; and the only tiling that preserved books from their ravages ^vas the closeness of the binding, which prevented these devourers from insinuating themselves between the leaves. Ac- cording to Mr. Anderson, fhey were of two sorts, the biatta orientaliSy and germaniea. The intercourse of trade and friendly oifices between the ships and the inhabitants of Huaheine was undisturbed by any acci- dent till the evening of the 22nd, when one of the natives found means to get into Mr. Bayly's observatory, and carry off a sex- tant, unobserved. Captain Cook was no sooner informed of this theft than he went asliore, and desired Omai to apply to the chiefs to procure restitution. He accordingly made application to them, but they took no steps towards recovering the instru- ment, being more attentive to a heeva that was then exhibiting, till the captain ordered the performers to desist. Being now convinced that he was in earnest, they began to make some in- quiry after the delinquent, who was sitting in the midst of them, with such marks of imconcern, that the captain was in great doubt of his being guilty, particularly, as he denied it. Omai, however, assuring him that this was the person, he was sent on-board the ship and there confined : this raised an universal ..r ih !i I'M \l 1 SCO COOK. ,«,„„ ,„,,„,^ ,,^^_^^^^_ to gather about ourT^'^"* ^'**'» t'^eir cons!^^^^^^^^^ after a «li«meless vie r„" f •"^;i«^- As the tSr^ and began severity than he had e^er dn ^""^ P""i'hed hl^^S'^ *^^ nead and beard «lin j / °°"® any culnrif. k vi ." greater '^ cut off, aX^^^^S^^ he commanded thabo^r' '^^^^"^ »»'« ,. This pnChmeii" fc"'"^ h'"»- *"' '*" ^h""^^ ^ng other offeS • ^ '*'^«^?'-, did not deter him f "eralaJarmw^sore^H"^^^'''^'" ^he morni„. „?,^'? ^«'°'«it. ^oats being sZ?nS^'?^9^'^^'^ed, aswaTren^orld^K ^^^^^ ^ Sa- nation, thev fm.n,!^ ^'^^^ ^ery man- an J £ ^ ^'^ ^^^e of the reared thSfhehate'^ '5^"^ ««fe 'in "hat o"f ? ""«" ^^^'ni- ^everalvine^nS u?''°^cdand carried nff? ^"»»'ter. yet it ap. put him to death and «'fr "'«"*« > «™ t pfeP?»f ''^ ^^«"«^ ^«it this place '^^r^"^ "^^ ^^''^ *» his house L ? ""^^ threatened to j^any of the people he7e reiX ^o ' T^hola; but there wereTn ^" *^^ ehiefsrH; hadin/eeVai;:;^''^^^^^^^^ oeine than in o« A ^"h more trnnKIr^ ^'^'Sns. (Jur shjng (ear anX wauTolto"'*^^ ^^i-ce"' fe. P^^^^^^^ in Hu'a' *^have better now ZTl "PP^^unities that 'inS"^ ^^^f ««^y among them tT'- "i^archy and confnl'^ '"««ced them to ^ child' tndi^^i'f'"''^^"^'^^^ seemed to pre^aJ any seVof mei^^vio tr .^"^ ^hi^^het'wa^, "anf^S^^/^^ h^ *hat whenever anvl?''*^^''^ '"eins of gove^!?^ individual, or «elfnow begaiTto ,r L 1«« "»«eh as Io^k«? f^ ""' ^1^^^'3^ W a baked ho^SL^^^^ **^^^ ^hey w^re of So tl^V ??>«i him- plantain-leaf m^e^f ^avouty food than nh^i^J"" h^m; tliat cocoa-nut fihe7wL^/^°^ ^ ^''^h or plate as n.w^'* ^"^ i ^hat a le body fled i Ornai, was ncealed tlie riling: after , aiui began ►eared to be nth greater I having his ears should ►m commit- 25th, a ge- y one of the ipon €xanii- ', yet it ap. i's grounds reatened to they should ischief, the n on-board ind this in- hiefs. He the people Our ships IS in Hua- was only d them to [to prevail 1, was but idual, or him; so our men precision, icommo- 1 \i cook's third VOVAGE, ir;6 — 17S0. -Ju i in re- turn hatchets and other iron tools, which had a more intrinsic value in this part of the world, and added more to his dUtinguish- ing superiority over those with whom he wa.s to pass the re- mainder of his days. Among the numerous pi events bestowed upon him in England, fire-works had not been omitted ; some of which were exhibited in tlie evening of the 28th, before a great multitude of people, who beheld them with a mixture of pleasure and fear. Those which remained were put in order and left with Omai, purstiant to tlieir original destination. On Thursday, the 30th, early in the morning, the Bolabola man whom they had put in confinement, found means to escape out of the ship, carrying with him the shackle of the bilbo-bolt that had been put about his leg, which was taken from ',iim, as soon as he arrived on-shore, by one of the chiefs, and given to Omai, who quickly came on-board to inform the captain, that his mortal enemy was again let loose on him. He found, upon inquiry, that the sentry placed over the prisoner, and even the whole watch in that part of the ship where he was confined, having fallen asjeep, he seized the favourable opportunity, took tlie key of the irons out of the drawers into which he had seen it put, and set himself at liberty. This escape convinced the commodore that his people had been very remiss in their night duty, which ren- dered it necessary to chastise those who were now in fault, and to establish some new regulations that might prevent similar negligence in future. He was pleased at Bearing afterwards, that the fellow who had escaped had gone over to Ulietea. Omai was no sooner settled in his new habitation, than Cap- tain Cook began to think of departing from Huaheine, and got every thing off from the shore this evening except a goat big with kid, and a horse and mare, which were left in the possession of tlieir friend, who was now to be finally separated from them. He also gave him a boar and two sows of the English breed; and he had got two or three sows of his own. The horse had covered the mare during their continuance at Otaheite, so that the introduction of a breed of horses into these islands lias pro- bably succeeded by this valuable present. " The history of Omai," says Captain Cook, " will perhaps in- terest a very numerous cla? y of readers, more than any other oc- currence of a voyage, the objects of which do not, in general, promise much entertainment. Every circumstance, therefore, wliioh may serve to convey a satisfactory account of the exact situation in which he was left, will be thought worth preserving ; and the following particulars are added to complete the view of his domestic establishment. He had picked up at Otaheite four or five toutousi the two New Zealand youths remained with him, and his brother and some others jo'iied him at Huaheine ; so that his family consisted alreaily of eight or ten persons ; if tliat cm be called a family, to which not a single female as yet be- i 'i ; if Zc.l- nor riV"'"'' '"''''•'' '"'-'''''>■ that there miiXfK^'^'".^ '^^ «« ^'ew nail« n. ' '^''7,"P^'^tions at it down uT^ ^"^ "" inducement from n V"'"'^^^ ^ere used ^- «ho"id fe to'S ^^r^ ^"^-^S a^^^^^^ *« P"" country; one end nf I [• l ^"^^^^ house after H.«i^-^P«'"^"'«> wehatUrecterl '"l^^'^^^^as to he hil^h! ^^^h''''' ^^^^^ Jn this work soml ""M^ ^"^^««e it entirely fV^^ "'"' **^«* ^^h'^h the intended brM-"*^ ^^u^ ^'^^^'^ PromSd tn ' ^r^«J^r security. ^ : HisEu'r^^^jr;^;-^^^^^^^^^^ thrr^o j^-; I ^'-"P^^^^^^^^^^^^ ^"yonet, and - ^hosepit^.T^:'?P^^"»^»^« of^^^^^^ r''P""«^ ^h^" ^;o"Id Se^^e ^^l «f ™, J had somr^^oind^for'"^*! "^ .«"- A^ter he harl „«* f "'® dangers than «Iilui- . , ^ ""strustinff two or tiirp*. firv, ""^f; fle had most nf f i.« *=^ngred to him. and Naves. J Resolution, J„c. Cook P, ( Discovery, Car. Clerke Pr 'i cook's third voyage, 177») — 1780. 263 i master be- m at nil dis- we erected et high. It f>erations at were used, ron, to pidl departure, jhion of bis that which ?r security, im; and if he marked yonet, and nd two or made him such pre- lave been >ons, than rls of one istrusting, iperiority. 1 him^ and oth ships well sup. ced. upon the I took st, and led on- iriosity, leave d come ship it ■as left it was ng it very imself tmost nt in )ught him safe back to the very spot from wiiich he wiis taken. And yet, such is the stranfje nature of himian affairs, that it is probable we left him in a less desirable situation than he was in before his connection with us. I do not, by this, mean, that because he has lasted the sweets of civilized lilV', he must become more miseral)le from being obliged to ab;vndon all thoughts of con- tinuing them. I confine myself to this single disagreeable circumstance, that the advantages he received from us have plated him in a more hazardous situation with respect to his pergonal safety. Omai, from being much caressed in England, lost si^ht of his original condition, and never considered in what manner his acquisitions, either of knowledge or of riches, would be esteemed by his countrymen at liis return ; which >vere the only things he could have to recommend him to them now, more than before, and on which he could build either his future great- ness or happiness. He seemed even to have mistaken their genius in this respect, and, in some measure, to have forgotten their customs ; otherwise he must have known the extreme diffi- culty there would be in getting himself admitted as a person of rank, where there is, perhaps, no instance of a man's bemg raised from an inferior station by the greatest merit. Rank seems to be the veiy foundation of all distinction here, and of its attendant, power; and so pertinaciously, or rather blindly, adiiered to, that, unless a person has some degree of it, he will certainly be despised and nated, if he assumes the apjoearance of exercising any authoritv. Tliis was really the case, in some measure, with Omai, tliough his countrymen were pretty cautious of expressing their sentiments while we remained amongst them. — ^Had he made a proper use of the presents he brought wi'i him from England, this, with the knowledge he had acquired by travelling so tar, might have enabled him to fonii the most useful connec- tions. But we have given too many instances, in the course of our narrative, of his childish inattention to this obvious means of advancing his interest. His schemes seemed to be of a higher^ though ridiculous nature; indeed I might say meaner; for revenge, rather than a desire of becoming great, appeared to actuate him from the beginning. This, however, maybe excused^ if we consider that it is common to his countrymen. His father, was doubtless a man of considerable property in Ulietea^ when that island was conquered by those of Bolabola, and, with many others, sought refuge in Huaheine, where he died, and left Omai, with some other children, who by that means became totally dependant. In this situation he was taken up by Captain Fumeaux, and carried to England. Whether he really expected, from his treatment there, that any assistance would be given him against the enemies of his father and his country, or whether he imagined that his own personal courage and superiority of knowledge would be sufficient to dispossess the conquerors of Ulietea, is uncertain ; but from tlie beginning of the voyage this r i '''-, ni 2G4 ii: a<^vanfaffe No ^ reasonable counselstvpr^ ^ P^*"«n^ 'f certainly n A. **^*^^^^ *"« favourite ^' i'i« arrival „ 0^1?'^?''"*^ ''^^^^ a^ 'ooral Vh' P?P^f ^ould voyage, he becamp ''*^- ^« ^^« advanced h ^ '^'°"'^ ^^^^ ^ve reached the Prt'^Ji'^/f^^'We oH^s S'.'L^'TI^'''.^" ""^ "rained unc eteSed ?„ "*h'"?"y "W-"' St Vr.?"^: te»,Td^f1-*-"^ ' out he refused 9. ^o our remon- to a passion, if oposed for his * nia favourite e people would '^y should hear ^eyer, on our ™d by the time apprehensions staid behind ese islands he very unneces. ^o, wliere he oj any inten- l the same in. ► to his pro. ' *nere, that T ^'T*^ after itofhiscon- f«your; and eite, as he a good deal very lar^je, admittinif "ned, if he .n»ore diffi. 's countiy- ^ut Omai 1 believe, oad not so Js father's n. w^ealtb, siderable, Psitook, Jne, shall ure navi- principal travellej'. nger will ay to the iciple of xious to at pre- 1 living e migto Be from Jraboo, ite him ^fused :i COOK'S Tmn„ VOYAGE, ,77(]->..HO. f i: this pcremptorilv and t^ n ^«5 knowledge of thnl P«"evoraiice to exe^i,'?'^'"^'"^' '"" very imperfect Jf'™' """^ ^^ne-^, and [n ^' '"• "•"* <"'» 12 *^ I f|, I I m %& cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. desirous of continuing with us. Tiarooa, the eldest, was an ex- ceedingly well-disposed young man, with strong, natural sense, and capable of receiving any instruction. He seemed to be very sensible of the inferiority of his own country to these islands, and resigned himself, though, ])erhaps, with reluctance, to end his days in ease and plenty in Huaheine. But the other was so strongly attached to us that he was taken out of the ship, and carried ashore by force. He was a witty, smart boy, and on that account much noticed on-board." As soon as the boat in which Omai was conveyed ashore had returned with the remainder of the hawser to the ship, they hoisted it in, and stood over for Ulietea without delay. The next morning, which was '^be 3rd of November, they made sail round the southern end of that island, for the harbour of Ohama- neno. — ^^fhey met with variable, light airs and calms alternately, so that at twelve o'clock they were still at the distance of a league from the month of the harbour ; and while they were thus de- tained, Oreo, the chief of the island, with his son and son-in-law, came off to pay them a visit. All the boats were now hoisted out, and sent a-head to tow, being assisted by a slight, southerly breeze. — ^This soon failing, and being succeeded by an easterly one, which blew right out of the harbour, they were obliged to anchor at its entrance, about two o'clock, and warp in, which em- ployed them till night. They were no sooner within the harbour than the ships were surrounded with canoes, filled with the na- tives, who brought a supply of fruits and hogs, which they ex- changed for their commodities. The following day, the Resolution was moored close to the northern shore, at the head of the harbour, and the Discovery alongside the southern shore. Captain Cook in the meantime returned Oreo's visit, andpresented that chief with a red-feathered cap from Tongataboo, a shirt, a linen gown, and a few other tilings of less vsdue. Oreo and some of his friends then accom- panied him on-board to dinner. On Thursday, the 6th, tlie observatories were set up, and the necessary instruments carried on-shore : the two succeeding days. Captain Cook, Mr. King, and Mr. Bayly, observed the sun's azimuths, both on-shore and on-board, with all the compasses, in order to discover the varia- tion. Nothing remarkable happened till very early on tlie morning of the 1 3th, when a marine, named John Harrison, wlio was sentinel at the observatories, deserted, taking >vith him his musket and accoutrements. As soon as they gained intelligence which way he had gone, a party was detached in search of him ; but they returned towards the evening without success. Tiw next day. Captain Cook applied to the chief concerning this aflair, who promised to send a party of the islanders after the fugitive, and gave hopes that he should be brought back in the course of that day : this, however, did not happen ; and they liad reason to iiaagine that the chief had taken no steps towards finding him. !st, was an ex- natural sense^ led to be very these islands, tance, to end ' other was so the ship, and hoy, and on d ashore had e ship, thev delay. The ?y made sail ir of Ohama- I alternately, e of a league ire thus de- I son-in-law, now hoisted tf southerly an easterly 3 obliged to , which em- he harbour vith the na- 'h they ex- ose to the Discovery nieantimp l-t'eathered few other en accom- ' 6th, tlie ts carried ir. King, shore and the varia- >" on tlie son, wlio 1 hini his elligence I of him ; is. Tlie lis affair, fugitive, ourse of ! reason ng him. cook's third VOyAGE,- 1776- ;^eir way Jl.e, Zt 4uh Kef wh"' T^"''^'' ^l « Se Y' caulion proved :,re!^ J- -»««Pe*" the mounC/''^^^^^^^ ''■■» Pre'«.ct Sarked Uh^^'''''^ ordered £ VueffrX returned to the «l.i^s After* ifr"" '" ""« "^ the boa,! H "■at & Srk'tuSslr.r »"« "ed s?;-* <'-/• axes, fteased with rt ^T^M»» another eoat »nj J"'"*'*' friend the c^ptaTt^'^'tJf'lr'^ "Pfortn^Toi^'^^rtl '^ «- » pa. »AtTn;tt7^s jr.irtlr^^^^^^ N 2 P"' "■ "'"ter, when |: '2-3H i mm Ml I^^B'.'iTnR!j^-l J^' ■' U UM'iEP'; 1 K^' n Rlf' 'II Hl-^ n wMi COOK'S THIRD VOi-AOE, l?r6-I7S0. te was to crufee foTh "n^in H '" ""^ '»'"«<•« of 45 Z „k°"' was tol^fJM;, he*;„.?r °f V-"o.?„"l;?,,h^^^ ceived no further orHpr«f ^*'o;^e-mentioned : that if W II ^'^^ ">ff ?)reventpf? htr ,ii ^'^^^^^^ by them : and fhU : ""^"^^ Pro- feelhTv i^* '^"4" -hottest :r"^ fc nf ft.r K 11^ ^^^ moored to the shntl I " command. the ingenious Mr. Pelham F.J ^^P^^" Cook receivli / ^^ ^"Sn Monaa, the .1 T '" '"'''''' '^^^ «* mannes, set out in quest perhaps oc- nssible care liance to be not finding [ew Albion, deg. where him in that n, or to the to take in )rt, he was le latter did to proceed I a distance as to cruize vas to pro- ■ a passage or Baffin's Admiralty : to repair to a, and pass jfreshments think pro- an account on his ar- (1779) he e then re- justify his ointed out uture pro- ase of be- ing these , he was d. oth sides [plates of ived from ners for ether (in ttoms of lore was jom was ^d from ^ceding lie mid- )f these [panion with |i quest cook's third VOTfAGE, 177C — 1780. 'i(i9 of the fugitives, but returned in the evening without success. From the conduct of the islanders, he was of opinion, that they intended to conceal the deserters, and with this view had deceived him with false infonnation, directing him to seek for them v'liere they could not be found. He was not mistaken ; for, the next morning, intelligence was brought, that the two runaways were in the isle of Otaha. These not being the only persons in the ships who were desirous of remaining at these favourite islands, it was necessary, in order to give an effectual discouragement to any further desertion, to recover them at all events. Captain Cook, therefore, determined to go in pursuit of thom himself, having obsei-ved that the natives seldom attempted to anmse him with false information. He accordingly set out with two armed boats, accompanied by Oreo himself: they proceeded without stopping at any place, till they came to the eastern ^ide of Otaha, where tiiey put ashore ; and the chief dispatched a man before them, with orders to seize the fugitives, and to keep them till the captain and his attendants should arrive with the boats. But when they had got to the place where they expected to lind them, they were informed that they had quitted this island, and gone to Bolabola the preceding day. The captain not choosing to follow them thither, returned to the ships, with a full deter- mination to have recourse to a measure which, he had reason to believe, would compel the natives to restore them. On the 26th, soon after the break of day, Oreo, with his son, daughter, and son-in-law, having come on-board the Resolution, Captain Cook resolved to detain the three last till the deserters should be deliver even made no secret in speak- ing of it the following day. But the principal part of their pbn of operations was to have laid hold of the person of Captain Cook. lie was accustomed to bathe every evening in the tresh-.vater; cook's third voyage, ir7G — 1780. 271 m not only endeavour- hem, would to such pro- which the legree, that , who were from all ap- ! still under Discovery, anoes, and 3ns. The daughter,) ily made a heads with 1 of blood, a message t had hap- , and send o's son-in- »ds before ithout the d left the n. I to the re- itated an involved ►ck. Cap- observed oaove oif. ■ailing to slandfers king at a hebold- t him in in a few ig, was )atsand le time. These ligence h they )rating sign of sjpeak- lan of Cook, vater; on which occasion he frequently went alone, and always un- m*med. Expecting him to go this evening as usual, they had resolved upon seizing him and Captain Clerke also, if he had ■accompanied him. But Captain Cook, after confining the chiefs family, had taken care to avoid putting himself in their power, and had cautioned Captain Clerke and the officers not to go to any considerable distance from the ships. Oreo, in the course of ihe afternoon, asked the commodore three or four times, if he would not go to the bathing-place, till, at length, finding he could not be prevailed upon, he retired with his people, notwithstand- ing all their entreaties to the contrary. Having no suspicion at thi« time of their design. Captain Cook imagined that a sudden panic had seized him which, would probably be soon over. Being dis- appointed with respect to him, they fixed u|)on those who were more in their power. It was a fortunate circumstance that they did not succeed in their design, and that no mischief was done on the occasion : no muskets l3eing fired except two or three to stop the canoes, to which firing, perhaps. Captain Clerke and Mr. Gore owed their safety ,* for, at that moment a party of the islanders, armed with clubs, were marching towards them, but dispersed on hearing the report of the muskets. This conspiracy was first discovered by a girl who had been brought from Huaheine by one of our officers. She happening to overhear some of the Ulieteans say that they would seiaie Messrs. Clerke and Gore, immediately ran to acquaint the first of our people she met with. Those who had been intrusted with the execution of the design, threatened to put her to death as soon as our ships should quit Ulietea, for disappointing them. Being aware of this. Captain Cooke contrived that the girl's friends should come a day or two afterwards, and take her out of the ship, to convey her to a place where she might remain concealed till she could find an opportunity of returning to Huaheine. On Thursday, the 27th, our men took down the observatories, and carried on-board whatever they had ashore, they then un- moored the ships, and moved a little way down the harbour, where they anchored again. Towards the afternoon, the natives, shaking off their apprehensions, gathered round and on-board the ships as usual ; and the unpleasing transactions of the precediiig day seemed to be almost lorgotten b}' botli parties. In the suc- ceeding night the wind blew in hard squalls, which were accom- panied with heavy showers of rain. In one of these squalls the cable by which the Resolution was riding at anchor parted ; but, as they had another anchor ready to let go, the ship was quickly brought up again. No account of the two fugitives having been received from Bolabola, Oreo now set out for that island, desiring Captain • It is not improbable that they were also indebted for tbeir safety to Captoin Clfrlie • valking with a pistol in his hand, which he once fired. \Vf • icutiuu this circituistanre ou tlie authority of Captain King. i m ■ -1 which had iTJlt^'^y' Sucli was the /il' ^'T^^^y vver^re The ^nd S/ • ^^'""i^dore much Lf,K?"^*^«" «^* «n affkh- i^epttheTeieL ^"r^.^'r^antlv^^^^^^^ ^"^ ve;,ation.^' • ^^e„, at eTght o'eW^^ ^^'^SuX theVh"'!^^^^^ ^est, «< with a lishthr. '" *^^ corning, 4evw«- P^P^^'^^her, preceding- weX ^^ ^^^ ** ^^e north4««f^ weighed and made quarters tf The /^.^''^ ^^^ been visited h'''*"'^- ^»"«g the and green nJanfo-"^^ ^^^ afforded a nL^^ P^'^""^ from alJ three weeks ; S« h/ "^ '?'^'»''' and wi)fk!f„T "S","" are an also took in pleZ „f „ f '"■"""''edwi^ tS ^*""^ f"' "^o or conquest seem« fl. u P"ty of the BoIahn]n« ^^^ their chief cfaiel resideTaVon^tW^^^^^^^^ *^^ "nder the eve nf f?^ "^'?- they are therp/^? i °^.«"hordinate obedience. '^ThS'niT^'^.^ '«te^Vt it fe^„? i'nmediate]; miJiating deDendprT •. *^» '« now redurp^ f ?/?*'*'® » proper the most Sent S-*^^« former] V as *^' state of hu- first seat oi^overnm^^!' f^P ^^ viands and w"""'" ["^^^"^ed, family of Otahpfi "? -^ ^' ^^^ they were tolH f ? . !J.^^ Probably the before the late 'ev^^^^^ descen?fr„^ W ^^-P.^^^ent ?oyaI name is Ooro^ 'res Si'^^'.^iV^ dethroned Wnfrn*^ ''"^^^ here «on an instaS^^ ^'.f .^^ /^ H"aheine. furtXtE^^'^' "^^^ appropriated by tlenTf^^'^^. ^« retafnaU /he ^^^^^es of princely deprived of SomSinn'%^^*^^"«twithstan^^^^^ ^Wch are during their st^yTijlW.'t '^?''"^*^^'-i««tanceoffhl '^^^'S^ b*^^" H^as Cfaptain Cook^lu^A "^^ere one of thefr 1 ^•'^^^'''''«erved «tiJI maintafnedl^^'eli"'"^ ^''^' lateXfTH^n"! visitants 'sife e ;rr " "^ ^™'"*--t "^a« to procure one of the COOK*S THIRD VdYAOE, 1776—1780. 273 us was tlio out to sea ; > in the har- i Bolabola. t being un- Is lying to ed to Bola- where they they were ry were re- jf an affair xation. and west, Oecember, i and made during the i from all ij of hogs ind-bound ins are an for two or sions^ they and more emed also laving be- leir chief, and the bordinate nediately a proper te of hu- iformed, ably the nt royal ed here , whose |wn per- also of rincely ich are g been served sitant.s , who ed by The )fthe anchors which had been lost at Otaheite by Monsieur de Bou- gainville. This, Captain Cook was informed, had been after- wards foun 1 by the natives there, and sent by them to Opoony, the chief of Bolabola. It was not on account of being in want of anchors that they were anxious to get possession of it, but having parted with all their hatchets, and other iron tools and implements in purchasing refreshments, they were now obliged to create a fresh assortment of trading articles, by fabricating them from the spare iron they could find on-board, and even the greatest part of dial iiad been already expended. Captain Cook, therefore, supposed Monsieur de Bougainville's anchor would in a great measure supply the want of that useful material, and he did not entertain a doubt that Opoony might be induced to part with it. Oreo, accompanied by six or eight others from Ulietea, at- tended them to Bolabola : and, indeed, most of the natives, except the chief, would gladly have taken a passage to England. At sun-set, being off the south point of Bolabola, they shortened sail, and passed the night making short boards. On the 8th, at day- break, made sail for the harbour on the west-side of the island. The wind being scant, it was nine o'clock before they were near enough to send away a boat to sound the entrance. The mast^^r, when he returned with the boat, reported that the entrance of the harbour was rocky at the bottom, but that tliere was good ground within, and the depth of water twenty-five and twenty-seven fathoms, and that there was room to turn the ships in. Upon this information they attempted to work the ships in ; but tlie wind and tide being against them, they made two or three trips, and found it could not be accomplished till the tide should turn in their favour ; whereupon Captain Cook gave up the de- sign of carrying the ships into the harbour, and, embarking in one of tlie boats, attended by Oreo and his companions, was rowed in for the island. As soon as they were got ashore, the conmiodore was introdu- ced to Opoony, si'^rounded by a vast concourse of people ; the necessary formali'^ of compliments being over, he requested the chief to give him the anchor ; and to induce him to comply with the request, produced the present he intended for him; it consisted of a linen night-gown, some gauze handkerchiefs, a shirt, a looking-glass, some beads and toys, and six axes. Opoony, however, refused to accept the present till the commo- dore had received the anchor, and ordered three persons to go and deliver it to him, with directions to receive from him what he thought proper in return. With these messengers they set out in their boats for a neighbouring island, where the anchor'had been deposited, but it was neither so large nor so perfect as was expected. By the mark that was upon it, they found that it had originally weighed seven hundred pounds: but it now wanted tlie two palms, the ring, and part of the shank. The reason of Opoony's refusing Captain Cook's present was now apparent ; NT) S?4 COOK'S THIRD vovAOE, ir;6-ir8o. , »"i.^uE, 1776 1780 «e SSVhiB, Th™ V"* '«™e off i„ te *'j'i "'«'* visited reader we S • ^ mentioned; and aslrlo ^""^^^ '"^^o- accordingly senUn. ^'^^^ ^"P*^ ^ould arise a^sf^"^^'".f^''t «^' cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. 275 it state, was le would be the anchor, li he at first commodore ! sail to the i^ere visited ir canoes to and a few tvould pro- s; and the found they fs and fruit J, they had re. e west-side ot enter it, by persons >ry proper )le-peaked ide, but on r grounds re covered nany little habitants, •nly eight •le should former of |f Captain ?at revo- luse the •y them- natives )rothers, I of Hua- linent a )intly to lof their lie inha- fho pre- fer pre- )art oi' le was goin^f leously started up' to the surface, and came immediately into his hand ! All the people were astonished at the sight: the stone was deemed sacred, and deposited in the house of the eatooa, and is still preserved, as a proof that this prophetess had great influ- ence with the divinity. Elevated with the hopes of victory, the canoes of Bolabola attacked those of Ulietea and Huaheine ; the encounter was of long duration, and, notwithstanding the miracle, the Bolabola fleet would have been vanquished, had not that of Otaha arrived at the critic.d moment ; the fortune of the day was now turned, and their enemies were totally defeated. Two days ai'ter the men of Bolabola invaded Huaheine, of which they made themselves masters, it being weakly defended, as most of its warriors were then absent; many of its fugitives, however, liaving got to Otaheite, there related their lamentable tale ; this so affected their own countrymen, and those of Ulietea, whom they found in that island, that they obtained their assistance ; they were furnished with only ten fighting canoes, and mth that inconsiderable force effected a landing at Huaheine, when dark at night, and taking the Bolabola men by surprise, killed many of them, and dispersed the rest. Thus, they again possessed themselves of their own island, which now remains independent, and is governed hy its own chiefs. When the united fleets of Ulietea and Huaheuie were defeated, the men of Bolabola were applied to by their allies of Otaha, to be allowed an equal share of the conquests ; this being refused, the alliance broke, and during the war Otaha was conquered, as well as Ulietea, both of which remain sulyect to Bolabola, the chiefs by whom they are governed being only deputies to Opoony, the king of that island." Such was their history of (he war. It has already been observed, that these people are extremely deficient in recollecting the exact dates of past events, and respecting this war, though it happened but a few years ago, our men could only guess at the time of its commencement and duration, the natives not being able to satisfy their inquiries with any precision. The final conquest of Ulietea, which terminated the war, had been achieved before Captain Cook was there in 1769 ; but it was very apparent, that peace had not been long restored, as marks of recent hostilities having been committed were then to be seen. By attending to the age of Teereetareea^ the present chief of Huaheine, some additional, collateral proof may be gathered. He did not appear to be above ten or twelve years of age, and his father, it was said, had been killed in one of the engagements. Tlie Bolabola men, since the conquest of Ulietea and Otaha are considered as invincible ; and their fame is so far extended that even at Otaheite, if not dreaded, they are respected for their valour. It is asserted, that they never fly liom an enemy, and that they always are victorious, against an equal number of the other islanders. Their neighbours too, ascribe much to the i I 276 "iiperiority of tlipir »„j . »'"•'- ■ITM. ^liat our men h«^ K^" '^ ^'"Perfectly deSu ^ **»« Spaniards. <^aplain Gierke 'hT^'^^''^ generally ar Les onf r""*" Y^'^^ '^ ^«"W race of'hZl ^^UlC a« English boar and ! ^ '''^^' ^^•'^«> ^t «ie nei^^hbourin j f«f "^^^'^erably improved .^n^ I '"' ^*»«t the ^ith maVSblel?"^' ^ ^"^^ they w3I neW^^'^^'t;*^^ ^"^ «" . ^hen tWsX^^^^^ perhaps, be stocked m abundance and X;.^ ""^^^^ ^^^se islands w.II i navigators : even i„ fK^-^^ ^^ refreshments Z",^ """vailed axes in partLlfr^ ^ Otaheite, and its np^lT^ ^onimodities at in gene?S to be^^;f nearly g^^^^^^^ Their was not mnr^ ?u P"rehased. The salt fW ^l^"e hogs were V. The" fXwii^g'pm.'^"^^^^^^ ^"'irgVliirr^ °" ^^-'^^ Captain Cook in IT^^^ ^^, ^"""g pork ha^^K^'^^'f^^ 'neat «ie evening i?. ^'^ l^^eraj voyages Th« 1 ^^^" adopted by taken out^the ^^ "^^^^"^^ they w;re nff ^""^^ ^^^e killed i„^ permit the iteod?- ^^.^^^^ ^hi^Tt w^ 'L T^/^e bone then salted S n„tf? ^"^"^ '^ till the Text n^ ^^^ '^ ^« *« necessity for it, as it cook's TIIIHI) VOYAOE, 1776 — 1780. ii77 them by Id at Ota- *8 anchor of tranK- •ed to the Kuropean Spaniards. e natives, it it could and when Bolabola, hem, and probable when he ! Cape of »undation Oreo, at , that the e, and all stocked nrivalled upply of '}y to be intestine leir pro- sepa- liilled )r ten as it was generally found to be all perfectly cured. Bay and white salt mixed together answer the best, though either of them will do alone. Great care was taken, that none of the large blood- vessels remained in the meat, and not too much should be packed together at the first salting, lest those pieces which are in tlie middle should heat, and hinder the salt from penetrating them. In tropical climates meat ought not to be salted in rainy, sultry weather. Europeans having of late so frequently visited these islands, they may on that account, have been induced to breed a larger stock of hogs ; knowing, that whenever our peo])le visit them, they may be certain of receiving what they esteem a valuable consideration for them. They daily expect the Spanianls at Otaheite, and in two or tliree years time they vvill doubtless expect the English there, as well as at the other islands. It ;i8 useless to assure them that our men will not return, for they sup- pose they cannot avoid it ; though none of them either know or inquire the reason of their coming. It, would, perhaps, have been better for these people to have been ignorant of their superiority, than after once knowing it to be abaudoned to their original incapacity. They cannot, indeed, be restored to their former happy mediocrity, if the intercourse between them should be discontinued. It is in a manner incumbent on the Europeans to pay them occasional visits, once in three or four years, to supply them with those articles which we by introducing have given them a predilection for. The want of such supplies may be severely felt, when it is too late, to return to their old, imperfect contri- vances, which they now despise and discard. When .the iron tools with which Captain Cook had furnished them are worn out, their own will be almost forgotten. A stone hatchet, is now as great a curiosity among them, as an iron one was seven or eight years ago ; and a chisel made of bone, or stone, is no where to be seen. Spike-nails, have been substituted in the room of the latter articles ; and, they are weak enough to imagine, that their store of them is inexhaustible, for they were no longer sought after. Knives happened at this time, to be in high estimation at Ulietea: and axes and hatchets bore unrivalled sway at all the islands. Respecting articles merely ornamental, these islanders are as changeable as the most polished European nations ; for, an article which may be prized by them to-day, may perhaps^ be rejected by them to-morrow, as a fashion or whim may alter. But iron implements are so evidently useful, that they must continue to be high in their estimation. They would indeed be miserable, if they should cease to receive supplies of what appears necessary to their comfortable existence, as they are destitute of the materials, and ignorant of the art of fabricating them. I" the r„.j;;,;' '""■'" ™^'-' •"«->««. frequent oZ Xfoter".' .''-^^'" ""^ wesffife?'' ^'■''■ «alms and brep»L . v' ""<* '» usually sentk , -.T ' "^ ""»•« ITie we Xr f. fr' ^•'' '* somehmes blow, .v. ' '"'' .occasional »ir. oft*; acclt^".fft»^r»lly doudy and ra^nJ'S^l''''^ ^"""l'^ Ihe souih-east part of nt i. •. ' Iwtunant prospects in tL .. P'^licite affords one of iK and crasffv- L,i 4U ™® "niverse. The l,;ii. ?• !"* n>ost trees a^f^s th7 "t "<"''"•«» «» the "erv ! '"«';' »'^CP. -" convey toZ S^/r blt&lS^"' ^ " ioea^ that no country upon vegefc iets, T tlie se tiiey r thefla cleligh reet it for the their c often I them a felt, ^^\ The na and ser in their places product pepper, attentioi roots of of the g Otalieitt bread, w perhaps trees, wli " The the first < two aboi the culti begins h shoots, \v cut down "The J abundanc numerous water on t of almost 1 abounds ^ the greate* frorn other their returr water on tl It has the i taste, and ( and those V "On the cook's TlimU VOYAGE, 177C — 1780. 279 upon earth ran vie with tliis in the Htrength and beauty of vegetation ; nature has been equally liberal in distributinf? rivu- lets, which glide through every valley, dividing as they approach tlie sea into several brunches, fertilizing the lands through which tliey run. " The habitations of the natives are irregularly scattered upon the flat land; and nianv of them along the shore artbrded us a delip;htful scene from the ships ; especially as the sea within the reel is perfectly still, and alibrds at all times a safe navigation for the inhabitants, who are often seen passing and repassing in their canoes. On beholding these delightful scenes, I have often regretted my inability to transmit such a description of them as would convey an impression somewhat similar to what 1 felt, who have been fortunate enough to have been on the spot. The natural fertility of the country, combined with the niildnesa and serenity of the climate, has rendered the natives so careless in their cultivation, that the smallest traces of it cannot in many places be discovered, though overflowing with the richest productions. The cloth plant and the kava, or intoxicating pepper, are almost the only things to which they show any attention. '* The bread-fruit tree is never planted, but spiings from the roots of the old ones, which spread themselves near the surface of the ground. Hence, Ave may observe, that the inhabitants of Otaheito, instead of being under a necessity of planti-ig their bread, will rather be obliged to prevent its progress, which is perhaps sometimes done, to afford room for a different sort of trees, which may enable them to make some variety in their food. " The principal of these trees are the cocoa-nut and plantain; the first of which requires no attention after it appears a foot or two above the ground ; but the plantain requires some care in the cultivation ; for, about three months after it shoots up it begins to bear fruit, during which time it puts forth young shoots, which supply a succession of fruit, the old stocks being cut down as the fruit is taken ofl*. " The products of the island are more remarkable for their great abundance than for their variety, and curiosities here are not very numerous. Among these may be reckoned a large lake of fresn water on the top of one of the highest mountains, at the distance of almost two days' journey. It is remarkable for its depth, and abounds with eels of an enormous size. This being esteemed the greatest natural curiosity of the country^ travellers who come from other islands are usually asked, among the first things, at their return, whether they have seen it. There is also a pond of water on this island, which has a yellow sediment at the bottom. It has the appearance of being very good, but has an offensive taste, and often proves fatal to those who drink a quantity of it ; and those who bathe in it break out in blotches. ** On the arrival of our ships we were struck with the remark- 280 ::: '! :r. ---- ---.-. "hk contrast b«t„ V '°^' I'^C-irgo. That difference. KL, *f'',"«'"'*«<' ;^s tuema very superior fertilitY nfth^- " "^'"S accustomeH >„ i ^ Wanders, 'Jdolent life. 4ey t- »""!'^ ™»blinTthem tl ""> ' ««' skin, which tK«„.t ^^^ * Plumpness »„ j '°. '"ad a more j" fa; froTbe SrS ^dTan?"™"^"'-"^ oun^et^?."' *^ languor in ail their mn«"**^» and is attend J 'ft "' }>^»>'ty, wrestling, whicK. i *'°".1- This is visihl» 7„ ,u '!'"' " "^nd of fared to^^hracKf^J,''" the feeble Ss of^^,^°^'^ »»d "'iSin&^^So^^o^fllt^^^^^^^^^ by continEa mP^ff^'on. ^« rende^ the ' f« '"^'*^ ^« "°dergo ,9«antityofchfthesZ"whT f^« i" the h?„ rw^^"?^ '« clofe 'ruit, which thev Lv 17^^^^ H"^«^ and eaS n'nfT^''"!?^- a great skin. Thev S ^L^ remarkably f ffil°"^ "othingr but bread othe. tiit^f 4: JS^ate that tlfeiJt™^^^^^^^ >t:!^nt:Tie2tf*^^^^^^^ course of life Va "^ '^d on animal S -rl" l'"";'' '^"^ "o, diseases among t^'errP-' ? ^""b-ted their 1.^ ' • *«'">Pe'-ale chronic or national ^I l""^'^ *'iey mention ^ ,'i'« '" fe« ever, before the arrival ^^T"^ «' To.,a4bor Tlfi,''™P'^ "'"' aiseaiie to their r»».i °' "** Europei,,!., . /k" V"" "as, how- of all otI.e,«7andSr'' '^'l'"'' "Cdllitfc i"™ «ddeda ?etm to hav; no effec^'f'* *'""'' """Way-- t'i'' P'"^*" ister a medlev !.e • cctnal remedy ThjT' *."'" '"f which thev •ne .ew cases nature alone I and those lark colour, whiteness, nnderate in h perhaps, them, the now to be se delicate m from the 1 their hair hem a very nd Hckle, Islanders, ction ; tlie id a more 'ss of the of beauty, a kind of Jxing and n, if corn- formed at ►n among ccording ed men, undergo is done a great bread- ing the lour, at seasons fetable is ai( a ain- jas not Iperate lo few )r six and how- led a )lace [they (min- pires (lone cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. 281 has exterminated the poison of this loathsome disease, and pro- duced a perfect recovery. They say also, that those infected with it communicate it to others by handling tliem, or feeding on the same utensils. ** lliey show an openness and generosity of disposition upon all occasions. Omai, indeed, has frequently said that they exercise cruelty in punishing their enemies, and torment theni with great deliberation, sometimes tearing out small pieces of flesh from ,MT dilTerent parts of the body ; at other times plucking out the eyes ; ; then cutting off the nose ; and lastly completing the business, by opening the belly ; but this is only on very extraordinary occa- [ I sions. If cheerfulness results from conscious innocence, one I il would imagine their whole lives had been unsullied with a crime. This, however, may be rather imputed to their feelings, which, tliough lively, are ne^ er permanent. Under any misfortune, after the critical moment in past, they never labour under the appear- ance of anxiety. Care never produces a wrinkle on tlieir brow ; even the approach of death does not deprive them of their viva- city. I have seen them when on the brink of the grave by disease, and when preparing to r>ttack the enemy ; but in neither of these cases have I ever observed their countenances overclouded with melancholy or dread. *' Disposed, as they naturally are, to direct their aims to what will afford them ease or pleasure, all their amusements tend to ex- cite their amorous passions ; and their songs, with which they are greatly delighted, are directed to the same purpose. A constant succession of sensual enjoyment must, however, cloy, and they occasionally varied them to more refined subjects : they chanted their triumphs in war, and their amusements in peace, their travels and adventures, and the peculiar advantages of their own island. " This shews that they are immoderately fo»»d of music ; and though they did not relish our complicated compositions, they v\ sre much delighted with the more melodious sounds, when produced singly, as they in some degree resembled the simplicity of their own. They equally experience the l oothing effects produced by particular kinds of motion, which in many cases will allay any perturbation of mind as successfully as music. Of this the follow- ing may serve as a remarkable instance. * Walking one day/ says Mr. Anderson, 'about Matavai Point, I saw a man in a small canoe, paddling with such expedition, and looking so eagerly about him, ar to command my whole attention. At first I supposed he had been pilfering from one f the ships, and was pursued; but he presently repeate ' his amusement. He pro- ceeded from the shore to the place where the swell begins, and attentively watching its first motion, laddled swiftly before it, till he perceived it overtook him, and had sufficient strength to force his canoe before it with passing underneath. He then ceased paddling, and was carried along as rapidly as tlie wave, till he i'Tfl «83 BOOK'S TWHD VOYAOB, ,f76- •^'•nded „n„„ ,: 7 '""'"'^' "'6-1780. ^^r^?i::^J'^AX^ ^™™ ...-s can. and smoothiv ri^ ^ supreme delight Si T"* '^^ seemed ta obsemnghim a„J^^'"^«^fhe Sesdlw"^^ "ofc them in s^eJJ. This ^v7 • ^".'^'"^ was an anr.io '^"*^^^y. caJ ng onf iave above tffSJM*''l'''«'««<'-'>, .^ L^' " abounds with for Uie .inspechtt. '■'• '" «'Pplyifa f o«i»ff a, LVin*" a,""* '^"^ '^ood^i paS; "" '^^ »S»«' s'!^ «eond (ime, when /f ;« """"K "ore days T^ . 'i'"''! by (he ^« has acquired L «™eraj|y comoIeWv "'' ?'" i'adent a «t»'np of an arm Vhrrh i^^i"? **« dexterous r « ' ".^^ ''^''^'' appearance of a sknri^'^^ been take„ "fl' - T'**.^ shown the ior their defrctUii^l^^'-^t^V^ had not the ;j;^^h a dislocated shonM"'^"- ^"d I «aw a n'^ '^"' allowance ^5 accident, from th" ^/^ -"^^^ '"onthrrfterrV^?"*^ «hout 'Educing it/thouffhtT ^^'"«^ ""acquainted 'Sk ^^^ "^^^^ surgery. '"^"fi^h it ,., one of the simS If ^^^ a method of •"Piest operations of our )m his canoe, He seemed to 3 thus swiftly > wholly occu- ntrymen were : objects that lotice them in while I was , calling out a favourable quent among ' the same as has not that 3 cc.isonants d itj like the bounds with >us that they lit, as many nut. Jy with the I he bowels.' ' le passions, j r affections, i operations pretend to lat branch nd up with 1 between supply its about five ed by the patient a id when r, and is llet.-., and itraneous Jhe truth ly obser- lown the Inot the lowance about jceived thod of of our cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. 283 tc Fractures of the spine they know are mortal; and they also know from experience, in what particular parts of the body wounds prove fatal, ^fheir physical knowledge seems yet more limited, b'^cause perhaps their diseases are fewer than their acci- dents. In some cases, however, the priests administer the juices of herbs ; and women afflicted with after-pains, or other coi v |)Iaints after child-bearing, use a remedy which seems unnecessary in a hot country. Having heated some stones, they lay a thick cloth over them, covered >vith a quantity of a email plant of the mustard kind, and over them is spread another cloth. On this they seat themselves, and sweat profusely, to obtain a cure. This method has been practised by tlie men, though ineffectually, for tlie cure of the venereal lues. It is remarkable tliat they have no emetic medicines here. " A famine frequently happens in this island, notwithstanding its extreme fertility, in which many people are said to perish. Whether this calamity be owing to the scanty produce of some seasons, to over-population, or to wars, I have not been sufficiently informed ; but it has taught them to exercise the strictest economy, even in the times of plenty. *' In a scarcity of provision, when their yams and bread-fniit are consumed, they have recourse to various roots which grow uncultivated upon the mountains. The patarra, which is found in great plenty^, is first used ; it somewhat resembles a large po- tatoe, or yam ; and when 'n its growing state is good, but be- comes hard and stringy when old. They next eat two other roots, one of which appears like taro; and then the (^hoee. Of this there are two sorts, one of which possesses deleterious qualities, which requires to be sliced, and macerated in water, a night before it is baked for eating. It resembles, in this resjject, the cassava root of the West Indies, but in the manner which they dress it, it has a very insipid taste. This and the patarra are creeping plants, the latter having temate leaves. '^ A very small portion of animal food is enjoyed by the lower class of people ; and if at any time they obtain any, it is either fish, sea-eggs, or other marine productions, for pork hardly ever falls to their share. Only the Eree de hat is able to afford pork every day, and the inferior chiefs, according to their riches, per- haps once a week, a fortnight, or a month. Sometimes indeed they are not allowed that ; for when the island is impoverished by yvar, or any other means, a prohibition is granted against the kill- ing of hogs, which sometimes continues in force for several months, and even for a year or two. In such an interval the hogs have multiplied so fast, that there have been instances of their changing their domestic state, and becoming >vild. '■ When this prohibition is taken off, the chiefs assemble at the king's habitation, each bringing with him a present of hogs. After this the king orders some of them to be killed, of which they all partake, and each returns to his own home, with full t -•■ s •Hi m 2«4 ^^ , COOK'S THIRD VOYArv i^. permission to kill «« ' 1776-1780. ^h-ps arrived there i^T"ff' ««™nng S ?il""' '"'™ got to J^w beverage s dJff ^^ "l^'^ ^"^ong {heCn"^^^ *° ^'o^J«. ^he FriendlflsTa^if ^^?|^y P^-^P^rfd from th«r'l^^>^°P^ : b.f HPon.the root" and oft. ^if 7 ^% Pour aTmllf "^^^'^ ^^ «aw i„ «f.the plant here andV"'"'"^- 'I^hey aro^£^'*^^¥^ « IS not drank in I. ^ P^"** ^ater unon fh *^*^"'^^ ^^^^ leavJi pernicious eSs^hi^^ P^«Pie at foLltl '"'"'f^^^ ^^y whlh Preparationrrte^'JawT"^^ P^rhafs t^V"^ ^* ^^ ^ore^ S'^-^^e at^ ~ ^? ^^Vt^ ^erore, .ere s J yh,andcS;i'^ "nj and their «t;„ t " *'«ale3; whirl. n>« " *''"'s were drv lieir growing 2,r™^'»'? a Practice A.fA'^'' renewed. A. J! ««."»e for "^ firufee'- » aom^''^^^^.^^; "ccasionalf/S aboufco^f'^l ?' Othete e' '"t " *- ''""*"''^' *; -^iHtth'-t^r'-^ ''ft- wttt- "^^ «-' '^ «?Pressed it, at two aid?. J»« «' e'evenand » ^^^ '" ^'e-i-; Tt^ have adopted 'some i '^"^ ','»»'' 'hey io to ,^1^""' "' 0">» o* domest c life Tl,. ^^'^ "'Wmsical rnrf "^P^' »' eight fhemssl™, i! .• 'he women »■„ i "r"' ""stems, m th;. „_? /■ *« next is at rigi?. feeing, aft^wSth;" ""' "™ -^ expressed it, at two aid? ?"* «' elevenand » ^^^ '" ^'e.^;; They have adopted 'some i '^"^ ','»»'' 'hey Cto ,^1^""' "' 0">» o* domest c life Tl,. ^^'^ "'Wmsical rnrf "^P^' »' eight fbemselves, but' »„''* '^"'"en are not „n? '°S?' '" tWs arffcfe »he better sortS of L*/* V='<''"'led from t","/?"'' '» eat T dare not toucCthoi^t,- T^-^I.e, or fish of the ±"^ ?^ "'°'' "^ Sf .both sexTalso ;* t'" ?"™'"ed to e^ t,"!''"'* even tho e ?y '^Ht-^^^^TJ^V- their eating ---r-tore-an^^fsgreonMreee^ I cook's tjjird voyage, 1776 — 1780. 285 •wn use. Oil force, at least Otoo. And '^ have got to i soon as the found it so; there is very tely after we ) fowls, [people: but !h we saw in tity of water alks, without ' the leaves ►on the root. '. way which it has more inner of its intoxicating B, were sur- arkable for now almost on was uni- were dry, ionally fall d. As an to prevent ceedingly^ IS lie first to slet|. , as Omai ■ at eight. lis article eat by most of nd, they lar sorts n those hildren Jrve up I eating, jfuiring sary it Jceive, other customs respecting the females, especially with regard to their connections with the men. When a young man and woman, from mutual choice, agree to cohabit, the man makes a present to the father of the girl of the common necessaries of life, as hogs, cloth, or canoes ; and if he supposes he has not received a valuable consideration for his daughter, he compels her to leave her former friend, and to cohabit with a person who may be more liberal. The man, indeed, is always at full liberty to make a new choice ; or, should his consort become a mother, he may destroy the child ; and afterwards either leave the woman, or continue his connection with her. But, if he adopts the child, and permits it to live, the man and woman are then considered as in the married state ; and, after that, they seldom separate. A man may, however, without being censured, join a more youth- ful partner to his first wife, and live with both of them. *' The custom of changing their conjugal connections is very general, and is so common an occurrence, that they mention it with indifference. The erroes, or those of the better sort, who possess the means of purchasing a succession of fresh connec- tions, are generally roaming about; and, having no ivarticular attachment, seldom adopt the plan of a settled cohabitation. And this HcentioTis plan of life is so agreeable to their disposi- tion, that the most beautiful of both sexes exhaust their youthful days in practices which would disgrace the most savage tribes. These enormities are peculiarly shocking, in a country whose general character has, in other respects, evident traces of tlie prevalence of human feelings. When an erroe woman brings forth a child, it is sufibcated by applying a cloth to its mouth and nose, which has been previously dipped in water. '' As the woman, in such a life, must contribute greatly to its happiness, it is surprising that they should not only suffer the most humiliating restraints with regard to food, but should he often treated with a degree of brutality, which one would sup- pose a man must be incapable of towards an object for whom he had the least affection or esteem. It is, however, extremely common to see the men beat them most unmercifully ; and, unless this behaviour proceeds from jealousy, which both sexes sometimes pretend to be infected with, it will be difficult to assign a reason for it. This may the more readily be admitted as a motive, as I have known many instances where interest has been rejected for personal beauty ; though, even in these cases, they are not susceptible of those delicate sentiments that result from mutual affection. Platonic love is h^ dly known in Ota- lieite. '' From a notion of cleanliness, the cutting off the foreskin is a practice adopted among them ; and they bestow a reproachful epithet upon those who neglect that operation. When five or six lads in a neighbourhood are pretty well giuwn up, it is made kndwn to a tahotta by the father of one of them. The tahova, 286 cook's third voyage^ 1776 — 1780. attended by a servant, conducts the lads to Lie top of the hills; and, after seating one of them in a proper manner, places a f)iece of wood beneath the foreskin ; at the same time amusing »im, by desiring him to look aside, at something which he pre- tends to see. The young man's attention being thus engaged, he immediately cuts through the skin with a shark's tooth, and separates the divided parts ; then, after putting on a bandage, he performs the same operation on the other lads who attend him. " Five days after they have been thus disciplined, they bathe, the bandages are removed, and the matter is cleaned away. When five days more are expired, they bathe again, and are recove^ftd ; but, as a thickness of the prepuce remains, occa- sioned by the cutting, they again ascend the mountains with the tahoua and servant, where a fire is prepared, and some stones heated ; between two of which the prepuce is placed by the tahoua^ and is gently squeezed, in order to remove the thickness. This done, they return home adorned with odoriferous flowers ; and the tahoua is rewarded by the fathers of the lads, accordiiijjj to their several abilities, with a present of hogs and cloth ; and if their poverty will not permit them to make a proper acknow- ledgment, their relations, on this occasion, are expected to be liberal. . " Their religious system abounds in singularities, and few of the common people have a competent knowledge of it, that being principally confined to their priests, who, indeed, are numerous. They pay no particular respect to one god as pos- sessing pre-eminence, but believe in a plurality of divinitie? , wlu) have each a plenitude of power. " As different parts of the island, and the other neighbouring islands have different gods, the respective inhabitants imagine they have chosen the most eminent, or one who is at least suflfi- oiently powerful to protect them, and to supply their necessities. If he should not give them satisfaction, they think it no impiety io change. An instance of this kind has lately happened in Tiaraboo, where two divinities have been discarded, and Oraa, god of Bolabola, has been adopted in their room. They have probably been induced to make this new choice, because his people have been victorious in war, and having, since their new election,- been successful against the inhabitants of Otaheite- nooe, it is solely imputed to Oraa, who literally fights their battlei*. ' " In serving their gods, their assiduity is remarkably consj)i- cuous. The whattas, or offering-places of the morais are, in general, loaded with fruits and animals, and almost every house has a portion of it set apart for a similar purpose. Many of them are so religiously scrupulous in their religious matters, that tliey will not even begin a meal till they have laid aside a morsel fpr the eatooa ; and we have seen their superstitious zeal carried % I cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. 287 of tlie hills ; ler, places a ime amusing dicli he pre- lus enpraged, 's tooth, and a bandage, who attend they bathe, saned away, lin, and are lains, occa- ins with the ome stones iced by the e thickness, lus flowers; , accordinji; cloth; and er acknow- scted to be and few of of it, that ideed, are )d as pos- litie.' , who s hbouring imagine east suffi- ecessities. impiety pened in nd Oraa, hey have ;ause his heir new Otaheite- ts their conspi- are, in house [any of ;r8, that morsel I carried to a most pernicious height in their human sacrifices, which are, I fear, too frequent. They probably have recourse to them to avert misfortunes. Their prayers, which they always chant like the songs in their festive entertainments, are also very frequent. *' As in other cases, so in religion, the women are obliged to show their inferiority. When they pass the wjomi*, they must partly imcover themselves, or take an extensive circuit to avoid tliem. Though they do not entertain an opinion, that their god must be contmually conferring benefits, without sometimes for- saking them, they are less concerned at this than at the attempts of some inauspicious being to injure them. Etee, they say, is an evil spirit, who delights in mischief, and to whoni they make offerings, as well as to their divinity. But all the mischiefs they apprehend from invisible beings are merely teniporal. "As to the soul, they believe it to be both immortal and im- material ; that, during the pangs of death, it keeps fluttering about the lips, and that it ascends and is eaten by the'deity : that it continues in this state for some time, after which it takes its passage to a certain place destined to receive the souls of men, and has existence in eternal night ; or rather in a kind of dawn or twilight. ^^ They expect no permanent punishment hereafter, for crintes committed upon earth ; the souls of good and bad men being indiscriminately eaten l3y the deity. But, they consider this coa- lition as a kind of necessary purification before they enter the regions of bliss ; for their doctrine inculcates, that those wlio refrain from all sensual connection with women some months before they depart this life pass into their eternal mansion, without such a previous union, as if, by such an abstinence, they were sufliciently pure to be exempted from the general lot. " They have not, indeed, those sublime conceptions of hajv piness wnich our religion, and, indeed, our reason, teach us to expect hereafter. Immortality is the only great jmvilege tliey think they shall acquire by death ; for they suppose that spirits are not entirely divested of those passions by which they w-^re actuated, when combined with material vehicles. Thus, at a meeting of souls which were formerly enemies, many conflicts may ensue, which must certainly^ be ineffectual, as those who are in this invi- sible state must be mvulnerable. *' Their reasoning is similar mth regard to the meeting of a man and his consort. If the husband departs this life first, the soul of his wife is no stranger to him on its arrival in the land of spirits. They renew their former intimacy in a capacious build- ing called Tourooa, where departed souls assemble to recreate themselves with the gods. The husband then conducts her to his separate habitation, Avhere they eternally reside, and have an offspring which, however, is purely spiritual, as their embraces are supposed to be far different from those of corporeal beings. " Many of their notions respecting the deity are extravagantly ( ig ii88 COOK'S TiilUD VOYAGE, 1776 1780. absurd Thp ""^ ^^^^ ^^«0- diffused, andtti ?^"^?ce of the divine sn?Wf -^^ ^^^^^^e ""JP-tl"' '? r '"'""" ' by stumbling agaiKtone j" Peraons. Omai nr^f ''j"^ knowledge* Sf««f»«tel future assured us fhLV P'^^'^nded to hare these rn^If^ ■'" Particular three day. "buTi,"" " '''«'"»' *«" h'e sKid L'S'''"''' '""' ^ . " TleS d^ai1;f Ll'"'"'^'' «" the fi^«totet^'= «««mpt. a c ii d V( ri St th th pa Tl th( hit in, sto enl CO! ass ten so ( a tive cook's THIHD VOYAGK, \77Ct — 1780. 289 viotis to his going to war. Our old doctrine of |)Ianet»' part of the Srf f "" !'""'' o''; nor 5^ '..''^'^ " 'V'" "'^dnec l^ele^sly X^fd tm '"^"'^'.'1' ?' '"' * paT^rhrff^ »eing-s the aenpro f r • .f «"sider n.o- what o 17 ^ "'^*^ «» instead of bei ' 1^^,^^ '^^^^'^ are whilem, d '^"^^ "^^ «f lose themselves ,"?r'' ''''^'''''^ that thes^ h "'"1 ^^ ""^^^t, missing. ^'^^-^^ ^''^^^^' wonder that no nfo 4 o • the n'.'li^ ^^"'^ , ^^aptain CJerke was nn • ^ ^ "^"'^ J-eturned the LvV""*-' ^"t neither t]^nnn^!;^ ^'^ detached'a K'er not „,dv ',, L i ^ i «'«"«■ than that oh?.. 'i" """'" cook's third voyage, 177G — 1780. •ii>7 ispatching e land, as would be King and )ove-men- i overcast the after- rtle at the [)t a sailor issing for lieir way ; was most eparated, ft absence ;ed great land, and allay liis drinking s method , though self, and time, a matter Vom tlie did not t could shrubs vessels •f direc- n what totally had so set of |niight, thus were Istrag- hed a aving boats In witii dis- lan's frag- was Having some yams and cocoa-nuts on-board in a state ot vegetation, tliev planted them, by Captain CooV\s order, on the small island where lie had observed the late eclipse ; an(l some seeds of melons were sown in another place ; the captani also left on that little isle a bottle contai-iing the following inscription Georglus Tertius, Rex, 31 tie Dccembris, 1777. Cook, Pr. 'lerke, Pr. Naves j Resolution, .lac. Cu I Discoveiy, Car. CI« On Thursday, the 1st of January, 1778, the commodore sent rnit several boats, to bring on-board the ditt'erent parties employed ashore, with the turtles they had caught. It being late before this business was completed, he thought proper to defer sailing till the next morning. They procured at this island, for both ships, about three hundred turtles, which weighed, one with another, about ninety pounds, all of the green sort, and perhaps not inferior in goodness to any in the world ; they also caught with hook and line, a great quantity offish, principally consisting of cavallies, snappers, and a few rock-fish of two species, one with wliitish streaks scattered about, and the other witli numerous, blue spots. The soil of this island (to which Captain Cook gave the name of Christmas Island, as they kept tiiat festival here) is in some places light and blackish, composed of sand, the dung of birds, and rotten vegetables. In other parts it is formed of broken coral-stones, decayeil shells, and other marine productions : these are deposited in long, narrow ridges, lying parallel with the sea- coast, and mi- f have been thrown up by the waves, though they do not reach .u ( vesent within a mile of si lue of these |)la-e .'l„side,.fe "?■•*' «"«' several, '^'"««" ""e ferfi'"'''? '^lanJ, appeared bl»t""'"""ff »f Sundav ,^' 'hey discoveS f--^?"^c t^ji^ fei Sr ^"^'^4S ieveral leagues. NoM. ■ ^^™ bore ea«t .; -l"'* "ext dav course for^he othe,. ^^".^ ""e to reach74 h^ *«te„crjf sides several fuid manner, idian mallow, ' be a me serif low trees sat black above head; these Sy and their ere likewise gannet^ and Men-of-war re also to be ; and there be between ■circular^ or ig the north situated at of 202 deg. h. IS Island is I little wa} lie western ea. Tliere 1 eighteen the wind and they [ich broke cook's third voyage, 1776—1780. 299 They had now a fine breeze at east-by-north ; and at noon the second island, named Atooi, for tlie east-end of which they were steering, was about two leagues distant. As they made a nearer approach, many of the inl' ibitants put off from the shore hi their canoes, and very readily came alongside the ships : they were agreeably surprised to tind, that they spoke a dialect of the Ota- heitean language : they could not be prevailed upon by any entreaties to come on-board. Captain Cook tied some medals to a rope, which he gave to those who were in one of the canoes, and they, in return, fastened some mackerel to the rope, by way of equivalent. This was repeated; and some nails, or pieces of iron, were given them, for which they gave in exchange some more fish, and a sweet potatoe ; a sure indication of their having some notion of bartering, or at least of returning one present for another. One of them even offered for sale the piece of stuff which he wore about his waist. These people did not exceed the ordinary size, and were stoutly made; their complexion was brown ; and though there appeared to be little difference in the casts of their colour, there was a considerable variation in their features. Most of thera had their hair cropped rather short, a few had it tied in a bunch on the crown of the head, and others suffered it to flovT loosed ; it seemed to be naturally black ; but the generality of them had it stained with some stuff which com- municated to it a brownish colour : most of them had pretty long beards. They had no ornaments about their persons, nor did they observe that tliey had their ears perforated. Some of them were tatooed on the hands, or near the groin; and the pieces of cloth which were worn by them round their middle were curiously coloured with white, black, and red. They seemed to be mild and good-natured ; and were furnished with no arms of any kind, except some small stones, wliich they had evidently brought for their own defence, and these they threw into the sea when they found tlv\t there was no occasion for them. As they perceived no signs of an anchoring-place at this eastern extremity of the island, they bore away to leeward, and ranged along the south-east side, at the distance of about a mile and a half from the shore. The canoes left them when they made sail ; but others came off as they proceeded along the coast, and brought xyith them pigs and some excellent potatoes, which they exchanged lor whatever was offered to them ; and several small pigs were purchased for a sixpenny nail. They passed several villages, some of which were situated near the «3a, and others further up (he country. The inhabitants of all of them came in crowds to the shore, and assembled on the elevated places, to take a view of the ships. On this side of the island the land rises in a gentle acclivity from the sea to the bottom of the mountains, which occupy the central part of the country, except at one place near the eastern end, where they rise immediately from the sea ; they .•500 ^"O'c's T,„nB vor.,0.. trrc- «eeme,I |„ be en . ' '^'■«-"80. r^ «he .rol^t^^f"""™-'. '«' "n came Z^ 5"^" (T-r 'foni twelve (o E "'"'l^fra'ty of the islanll ? "^'^ '""' Poinf parsed tbisVni„r^^^"' 'axioms, over a l? b' u*"*™ ">ey ( ,„ . "y've, alld'^^Titfe' ""^* '^'■"L hvent^ ft h4,'';"r- ^""''ff 'I'Sl't in standing off a' r" " ^oWom of sandf'.i'""" «**een, f'e land, and were m^T ?"' '""' *e next m^i; ""'^ »l'«"( the remote period t-'^'^''^" ^"^n^tV hr^ 'i >^^ P^rhan^ referring mobablv 7 ^'^^^ '^^ ^^V the ann.l^i?^ ^^ ^'^^^^ afa f'^e blade of a kS fl^^^H^^^^' ^<'r fhey ann?/''??/'^"*^^* ^>«n ^fstrument, which 'Lt°"§^^?ey ^^^d „? iS^f ,,^^5 "ame to j'^^f frequently callSLn'i:^.""* ^^^'^ Iiandle nl^^* T^'>"Jar ^^ntchet or adze. On., •''^ * '^ name of" /"? J'^VP^r'K they what they were anj\ ^'"^'r^^ ^^^m some be?rl« ^Z*^^* signifies a then- being inihvme^ h'MT^^^^^r tteyTere ]^A ^^^"^ ^'''^^ ««ked ••ejected them as ',sefe '^^^ ^^^e to^brfuU in fif "''" ' ^"^ «« regard to a looking g£th.^'^ ^^^^ equK^ST ^^»> «iey 'or a smiilar reason r\-' ^^^'^ offered them '"T^rent vvid, oAer things of tha ki„d '"'^ ""^^^ Plates of e^;^^ ""^"'•"^^^ H ^'hether t&y were nTaS^' T'^ "« "^^ to them fh ^if^^^^ ^"f' «atnral]y politeror^t fe^""/ "^^^^^ "^^y ^^ere ?/ ^f ^^^'^ ««^^^' f^»em, just befbre fh.-^^^^^»tiousof givh^t'nff "^^^ prayer/and oti e -s Iff ^'^^^uring onStf ^"'^- S«n»e of ^viththeirLnl n r^^'^'-5^'""4/and ^^^^ '^^^^^^^ a W ^o «tea] every ihPnVi'"'^ lotion! ^^^it openly! as Yfhi^^ *^"^ ^o"W fay haS^^^ •'ot resent such LL • ^ supposed that our np^^i^'^^r ^^^her to ;'«"vinced them of 1S"'*^ ^' ««t binder t ^ bS V^'^'' ''^""^^^ kept a watch/nJ^; ^ error; and whi^n Al . ^ **"^ "^en soon .'4«"« 'o the': ;3:e";X'Ti ''•^^.^^-^e^^^^^^^^^ ?hat th":; ,. About nine o'clock rw •'"'r.""' ""^'ong to them '" ^PP"""" w-.c, if he should cook's third voyage, 177G — 1780. £01 I liorizontal near wliich •K:ajies an (I •ike gronnd a low point they found n. Having en sixteen, y spent the Jtood in for ith natives, n any other were upon from one d gestures ivery thiiijr ^er, till the acquainted I, however, , perhaps, them at a f hamaite, hich iron t name to particular fly; they ignifies a rst asked I ; but on ars, they ;nt with urned it re, and asked ispects, [ome of [a long Lotions mpted ther to fhould soon they ippro- 'il- land- lould find it necessary to land in search of the latter, he should not allow more than one man to accompany hiiiY out of the boats. The very moment they were putting off from the shii), one of the islanders having stolen a cleaver, leaped overboard, got into his canoe, and hastened towards the shore, while the boats pursued him in vain. The reason of the commodore's order that the crews of the boats should not go on-shore was, that he might prevent, if possible, the importation of a dangerous disease into this island, which he knew some of the crew now laboured under, and which they unfortunately had already communicated to other islands in this ocean. From the same motive, he commanded that all female visitors should be excluded from both the ships ; many per- sons of this sex having come off in their canoes. Their features, complexion, and stature, were not very different from those of the men; and. though their countenances were remarkably open and agreeable, few traces of delicacy were visible either iu their faces or otlier proportions. The only difference in their dress, was their having a piece of cloth about their bodies, reaching from near the middle almo*:t down to the knees, instead of the maro worn by the male se^ . They were as much inclined to favour the ships with their company on-board, as some of the men were ; but die commodore was extremely desirous of preventing all conneciion which might, in all probability, convey an irreparable injuiy to themselves, ard afterwards, through their means, to the whole nation. Another prudent precaution was taken , by strictly enjoining, that no person known to be capable of communi- cating infection, should be sent upon duty out of the ships. Captain Cook had paid equal attention to the same object, when he first visited the Friendly Isles ; but he afterwards found, to his great regret, that his endeavours had not succeeded; and there is reason to apprehend that this will constantly be the case in such voyages as these; whenever it is necessary that many people should be employed on-shore. Waiting for the return of the boats, which had been sent out to reconnoitre the coast, they stood off and on with the ships. 1 ovvards mid-day, Mr. Williamson came back, and reported, that he had observed behind a beach, near one of the villages, a large pond, which was said by the natives to contain fresh water ; euiJ, that there was tolerable anchoring-ground before it. He also mentioned, that he had made an attempt to land in anotlier place, but was prevented by the islanders, who, coming do\Mi in great numbers to tlie boats, endeavoured to tyke away the oars, muskets, and every other article which they could lay hold of; and crowded so thick upon him and liis people, that he was under the necessity of firing, by which one man was killed. This unfortunate circumstance, however, was not known to Captain Cook, till after they had quitted the island, so that all liis measures were directed as if no affair of that kind had hap- 302 COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE I7?« .. Pened. Mr VV.ir ' '776— 1780. , Captain Cook then d' . u . Wertamed to 51 deg. east X wf i'''^ ^^^"^ already me,S"J ^/"'"^ «'' ^he considerable nnmif. '"* '""habitants. wl,„ i.°j "*'«"■. and behind it was n&Tn " .^''y be^MbreT""'-!?'' '» "nome„tl.eleaped*:S„^ Sl'!'^? «. P'««e of ^'^f h* ' ^i^ne'^oe^el^i''^* Pj^ntain trees,Z^^^^ sions at th^ vj« • !^ ^"^^ "ad seen nranr.at^ . nearly the prayer beW pro^'V"^ ?«her isle" ~a £" '™''*' «^<=«- acceptance of t£v 'i'^ Joined. Cantei„ cl 7 •'' "'he's of in 'eton, such pSSt"'!'* 'i}'"'^i'vXy&L^^"^''t h"' ductory business S f^^/?d brought^sh're fl.°" ?^<"»' beach, and was th™ ".''^'^ '« sMoned a J^' ?"'' ""''o- water/which he f„^ ''""ducted by some „f ^i.^"""''. "PO"" the poufe*:;^"£w?»t;^^^^^^ in rolling the caftrf ^'^:? ''^ ^a^erin J/thev ^^^ to alacrity whatever w.*^ ^"^. ^''•«'» «^e pioj LT T'^^^^ ^^em the command IffK^^'/^.^^^^'ed of them r« ? .P^';«■ "lie side™ he;„.i ''''?"'''P"<^'<'''8 were soon t^T"' "?''"'<>'' »<' square place l»sTM"*° "■« ''"'«'»«« Xv^lt™''!' '■»'■' »» (hesewereTL? """tlier still smaller •„„ J ^^^''''f'' » si'all. of tLmT' ?^ "'=''« ""foi-med hvfii'' "f "" askni; what "I mem was interrpd « .„„ . y. '"*"• conductor *!.„/• i„»r ^ appearance induced th. "&Slt h"1 -7« r^^^^^^ ^eve, that this now present Ztlrf *^*" ^^^riiices as tit it"L* ^"\"^^d *« «iderable of them 1^ "'^* ^^" Probably one o/" fl. ""^''^^ ^« ^«« which thev &nK '"^]""^^^e««conL°^^^^^^^ '"^^t ineon- particuarly thanl'!'^^^,^^ *^ey J eTa W^,?" '"'"^ «*^^''« «» »y art. Phe intervening- tm to be Eatooa ^ere not very <^n the head »e head-dress ^fj a carved arriors ; and '^ ionis, and ^ at the side "It; before >een placed and before losedbyan ins was tile •stances of "ting, and wtertained ^Jso in the 'blation oi* h for^ on 9 a snialJ, Jng Mhat it in one ; and, in ^ity. At enclosed 1^ and a e chiefs, 5 figure, iared to of each hat this smed to he was incon- others tj and water in all I cloth were stina, h the I ^Ok^k^ I /I ,^' - »'• cook's thiiu) voyage, 177C — 1780. 305 spaces, in general, were planted with taro, which jjrew with >;it'at vigour. '^I'here were several spots where the eloth-imil- herry was planted in regular rows : this also grew vigorously. 'I'he cocoa-trees were '.i a less thriving condition, and were all l(»w ; l»ut the plantain-trees, though not large, nuide a pretty igood appearance. Upon the whole, the trees that are most numerous round this village, are the <:oriliti sehnstiuii. The greater j)art \>f' the villagi^ is situated near the beach, and con- sists of upwards of sixty houses there ; but, perhaps, about forty Imore stand scattered about, towards the inorui. After the commodore, and Messrs. Anderson and ^^'ebl)er, Iliad carefully examined w latever was worthy of notice about the hnomi, and the latter had taken drawings of it, and of the siir- rounding country, they returned by a dilVerent route, they foiuid [a nndtiiude of j>e()ple collected at the beach, and a brisk trade for fowls, pigs, and vegetables, going on there, with the greatest Older and decorum. At noon, Captahi Cook went on-board to diimer, and then sent Mr. King to take the command of the party on-shore. During the afternoon he landed again, accom- panied by Captain Clerke, intending to make another excursion up the country, but, before he could execute this design, the (lay was too far advanced, he therefore relinquished his intention for the present, and no other opportunity afterwards occurred, i'owardij sun-set, he and his people returned on-board, after having procured, in the course of this day, nine tons of water, and (principally by exchanging nails and pieces of iron), seventy or eighty pigs, some fowls, plantains, potatoes, and taro roots. In this commercial intercourse, the islandert deserved their best commendations, making no attemi)ts to chefit them, either aloi g- side the ships or on-shore. Some of them, indeed, as our people have already related, betrayed at first a pilfering disposition ; or, perhaps, they imagined that they had a right to all that they could lay their hands upon: but they quickly desisted from a conduct, which, diey .onvinced them, coidd not be persevered in with impunity. Among the vari.ms articles which they brought to barter this day, our voyager." were particularly struck with a sort of cloak or cap, which, oveii in more pohshed countries, might be esteemed elegant. These cloaks are nearly of the same shape and size of tlie short ones worn by the men in Spain, and by the women in l^ngland, tied loosely before, and reaching to the middle of the back. The ground of them is a net-work, with the most beauti- ful red and yellow feathers, so closely fixed upon it, that the surface, both in point of smoothness and glossiness, resembles the richest velvet. The method of varying the mixture is very different ; some of them having triangular spaces of yellow i\nd red alternately ; others a kind of crescent ; while some were entirely red, except that they had a broad yellow border. The brilliant colours of tlie feather^; in those cloaks diat were new, had a verj i )\ A 4- ■ " i ! • { 1 ■ ti ^ 5* Those of the S 1°?''"'""'" »<"»« of them l^,f «'-'T"*'ihoJ "ley are used onlv/nT^''*. s^rce; and ;' "^'/'"■«« "ails Theoap.ar^^t^e'jrthf r ""'"r-^^ ""''"•'«' "■»« «»d less divZZf-'tC ""•"" *« - Ss* but,?'''' !"'° *'h Pf en, or black ,(ri "^J'"' Part beiiur \z}" "omewhat closer , baWlity. complete t?/!i "" *« »'de» TheiTi*" '"!"« J'*""*; r'^^iS^^i^'^^^^ ^ Obtained wooden skewpr? '",^"»c]ies of twenV^^"^ ^^d species of bifd but they aftemarSbl •^^''"'" ^^^^ beW^d thf ^•''"' ^'^ P^' ^^9 feet and S Th. ?"^^ "^^^^ with th^ll w '^"'^". ^^^^^^d, «:nd,suffieie„tJv e^i?.^'ydsofparadiib^^^^ them the ^igned by the i^hafafc^^ ^irc^Sat^^ ^.^f^^t«teof Jegs^ *|ie ieet of thes^ S.i • ^ o^ Atooi* for thT^ I ^"^ ''eason as tbem tJ,e more el^v «^ v^ ^'^^^ ^y th s prtctir.'^r ^^ ^^«^'«^ off «- valuable. '"^^^^ ^'«»out iosLg an^pSr^hfer ^^^^^^'^ ^ ^he red bird of this i.l ^ ^^^ ^'^"^^^der P^a.feddish £e Tl ^"8^ *f «<« ''eadrSh*'?^^; and it had an than two Ses 'i""'Tu ""^"^ b "4 bSl,^"",*'-"' "as not i,' ^tending tS suAS '^r I"*' ste™ '''tI"""' ?• "«'« ™o™ «''« ships, hogs and vplr^^,""' '» tbVir cLzJ^-"'^ ""''''"'- '»•• our com^od"flr*^'''*»'«WchthVSch»'.'''!?«f'"^<'«'«« I cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. 307 •t-f one of these . demanding wards^ihow- jarge nails. )bable, that 1 the middle ley sit very trs. They into which v'hat closer, me yellow, in all pro- ? islanders f obtained ' soon pro- ds brought es of bird, r having a were pur- s forward, including them the e of legs ; sason as- itting off preserve consider iderson, our was had an et, was out, as |at they lie dry- smell use of \u\ for |i-east, it the lot in [more Iwith- Iffto [fore, tome fish-hooks for sale, was observed to have a very small parcel fastened to tiie string of one of them, which he carefully sepa- rated, and reserved for himself, when he disposed of the hook. When asked what it was, he pointed to his belly, and intimated something of its being dead ; saying, at the same time, that it was bad. He was requested to open the parcel, which he did with great reluctance : and they found that it contained a small, thin piece of flesh, which had to all appearance been dried, but was at present wet >vith salt water. Imagining that it might be human flesh, they put ihe question to the producer of it, who answered tliat the flesh was part of a man. Another of the islanders, who stood near him, was then asked, whether it was a custom amon^ them to eat their enemies who had been slain in battle? and he immediately answered in the aflirmative. In the afternoon, there were some intervals of fair weather ; the wind then changed to the east, and north-east, but towards the evening it veered back again to south-south-east. The rain also returning, continued the whole ni'ght, but was not accompanied with much wind; at seven, the next morning, a north-easterly breeze springing up. Captain Cook ordered the anchors of his ship to be taken up, with a view of removing her further out. As soon as the last anchor was up, the wind veering to the east, rendered it necessary to make all the sail he could, for the pur- pose of clearing the shore : so that, before he had good sea-room, he was driven considerably to leeward. He endeavoured to re- gain the road, but having a strong current against him, and very little wind, he could not accomplish that design ; he therefore dis- patched Messrs. King and Williamson ashore, with three boats, to procure water and refreshments, sending, at the same time, an order to Captain Clerke to put to sea after him, if he should iiiid that the Resolution was unable to recover the road. The commodore having hopes of finding a road, or perhaps a harbour, at tne west-end of the island, was the less anxious about regaining his former station ; but as he had sent the boats thither, he kept as much as possible to windward ; notwithstanding which, at noon, the ship was three leagues to leeward. As they ap- proached the west-end they found that the coast rounded gradually to the north-east, without forming a cove or creek, wherein a ves- sel might be sheltered from the violence of the swell, which, rolling in from the northward, broke against the shore in a pro- digious surf : all hopes, therefore, of meeting with a harbour here soon vanished. Many of the natives in their canoes followed as they stood out to sea, bartering \arious articles ; as they were extremely unwilling, no'^withstanding the suspicious circum- stance of the preceding day, to believe that tLese people were cannibals, they now made some further inquiries on this subject. A small instrument of wood, beset with sharks' teeth, had been purchased, which, as it resembled the saw or knife made use of by the savages of New Zealand to dissect the bodies of their ii I ^i1 308 COOK'S Tm„B VOYAGE, m6-m0. . — 'viAujb,;, 177(5 -1780 swerved /h '■"""^<' ">«"• ttt ' he"tn?, ''-"^ <)«eZned ttt being dTd '^l^ettThl'''''" *^^ ""'"ved" hl'iS- '''"^ strongly denied I^V '■?"""'7men a(e the mrl A ''^^""' numlrous af fh. '^ .*^«mnioclore that thl iJo i""^ '^''^^^- ^^r. , On S.Sy:tt%4tT/' P' back in * h?K **™"^ Canta.-n P^ 1 ^ norther y breeze ««,. ^^^ ^* ^^^ distance «eaf teer^dlr^^^^ **-' ^hTsTouTd^b^rfn^th^Tr ^'^^^^ "^^^ bore south west ^Uhf'-'^' ^ "^^^hbouS^isfc. '^r^T ^« to steerfor iTtffJs Jp'"^'^ of anchoring There H.""^*"^. ^^» o' about sixm Jes iVomT"^:^* ^^"^^ «n^e helL a^fl '""J-H""'^ apprehensive S 'C; Vil t'^' ^^^^"^ ^^e Ken^ f'"^' separathiw «n a.,. iT xT "* consequence mJ.rk* '^y**^'3^ ne was able tore^Suir^'^ ^I ^^^ ^i^covely *^^jf *««» ^oad, and not ^vater • H.? '''' ^^^ '^ ^"»'W-pIace «nJ' ?. '"""^ along tk n-^^ter, at h,s return, reported haAr^^*" ^" ^««y sail. i "ea ihat there was tolerable cook's third voyage, 17rc — 1780. 309 ;re for the id on this nentioned elly when le circum- Ily. The elligence, s cut out, eated, he lis canoe, en asked firmative. he again g, with a er. Mr. ere very numbers ith them led, that iifficulty the ship [rth, and distance er, and •veiy to ;h then itinued istance le was n their fisiting ling to kupply led by- Blight. )f (he Id not un- [, the ten fiilly, and tiii.s tlie hesh sail. ^ble I anchorage all along the coast; and that he had landed in one place, but could not find any fresh water. Captain Cook being informed by some of the natives who had come off to the ships, that fresh water might be obtained at a village which they saw at a little distance, ran down, and cast anchor b* "ore it, about six furlongs from the shore, the depth of water being twenty-six fathoms. The Discovery anchored at a greater distance from the shore, in twenty-three fathoms ; the south-eastern point of Oneeheow bore south, 65 deg. east, about one league distant ; and another island, which they had discovered the preceding night, named Tahoora, bore south, 61 deg. west, at the distance of seven leagues. Before they anchored, several canoes came off to them, bringing potatoes, yams, and small pigs, besides mats. The people who were in them resembled in their ])ersons the inhabitants of Atooi, and like them were acquainted with the use of iron, which they asked for by the names off toe nndhameit€j readily parting with all their commodities for pieces of this metal. Some more canoes soon reached the ships, after they had come to anchor; but the islanders who were in these had apparently no other object than to make a formal visit. Many of them came on-board, and crouched down upon tlie deck: nor did they quit that humble posture till they were requested to rise. — Several women, whom they brought along with them, remained alongside in the canoes, behaving with much less modesty than the females of Atooi ; and at intervals they all joined in a song, which, though not very melodious, was performed in the exactest concert, by beating time upon their breasts with their hands. — The men who had come on-board did not continue long with them ; and before their departure, some of them desired permission to lay down locks of their hair on the deck. The curious hiquiry, whether these islanders were cannibals, was this day renewed : and the subject did not arise from any questions put by our people, but from a circumstance that seemed to remove all doubt; One of the natives who wished to get in at the gun-room port was refused ; and he then asked, vhether tiiey would kill and eat him, if he should come in ? accompany- ing this question with signs so expressive, that they did not en- tertain a doubt with respect to his meaning. They had now an opportunity of retorting the question as to this practice ; and a man beliind the other, in the canoe, instantly replied, that if they were killed on-shore they would not scruple to eat our men, not that he meant they would destroy them for that purpose, but that their devouring them would be the consequence of being at enmity with them. Mr. Gore, Avaij sent in the afternoon, with three armed boats, in search of the most commodious landing-place : being also di- rected to look for fresh water when he should get on-shore. He returned in the evening, and reported to Captain Cook, that he m 'u 310 cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. had landed at the village above-mentioned, and had been con- ducted to a well above half a mile up the country ; but that the water which it contained was in too small a (luantity for their pur- pose, and the road that led to it was extremei}'^ bad. The next day, Mr. Gore was sent ashore again, with a guard, and a party to trade with the inhabitants for refreshments. The commodore's intention was to have followed soon afterwards, jjnd he went from the ship with that design ; but the surf had so greatly in- creased by this time, that he was apprehensive, if he got ashore, he should not be able to get oif again. — This circumstance really happened to our people who had landed witJ Mr. Gore for the communication between them and the ships, by their own boats, was quickly stopped. They made a signal in the evening for the boats, which were accordingly sent, and in a short time afterwards returned, with some good salt, and a few yams. A considerable quantity of both these articles had been obtained in the course of the day ; but the surf was so exceedingly high, that the greatest part of both had been lost in bringing them off to the boats. The officer and twenty men, not venturing to run the risk of coming olF, remained all night on-shore, by which unfortunate circumstance the very thing happened which Captain Cook, as we have already related, so eagerly wished to prevent, and imagined he had so effeciually guarded against. The violence of the surf did not prevent the natives from com- ing off in canoes to their ships ; they brought with them some refreshments, for which they gave them, in exchange, some nails and pieces of iron hoops ; and they distributed among the women in the canoes many pieces of ribbon, and some buttons as brace- lets. Some of the men had representations of human figures punctured upon their breasts, and one of them had a lizard re- presented. These visitants acquainted our men that there was no chief of this island, but that it was subject to one of the chiefs of Atooi, whose name was Teneooneoo. Among other articles which the natiyes now brought off to them, was a small drum, tliat had a great resemblance to those of Otaheite. Between ten and eleven o'clock at night, the wind became southerly, and the sky seemed to ind'cate an approaching storm. In consequence of these threatening appearances. Captain Cook, thinking that they were rather too near the shore, caused the anchors to be taken up ; and the ships being carried into forty- two fathoms' water, came to again in that more secure station. This, however, proved an unnecessary precaution ; for the wind, not long after, veering to the north-north-east, blew a fresh gale, with squalls and violent showers of rain. This weather continued for the whole succeeding day, during which the sea ran so high, that all communication with the party on-shore was totally inter- cepted, and the islanders themselves would not venture out to the ships in their canoes. Towards the evening, the commodore sent the master in a boat to the south-east part of the island^ to try wl favoul till tl anothi cook's third voyage, 1776 — 17S0. 311 e was chiefs •deles Irum, ;came litorm. yook, the torty. lition. rind, ^ale, fined lore to try whether he could land in that quarter. P^e retnnied with a favourable report ; but it was now too late to send for the party till the following morning; so that they were obliged to stay another night on-shore. On the appearance of day-light, a boat was dispatched to the south-east point, with orders to Lieutenant Gore, that, if he could not embark his people from the spot where they at prevent were, he should march them up to the point. The boat being prevented from getting to the beach, one of the crew swam off to shore, and communicated the instruc- tions. After the boat had returned. Captain Cook went himself with the launch and pinnace up to the point, in order to bring off the party from the land. He took with him three goats, one of them a male, and the others females ; a young boar ancl sow of the English breed ; and also the seeds of onions, pumpkins, and melons. He landed with great ease under the west-side of the point, where he found his party in company with some of the natives. To one of these, who assumed some degree of autho- rity over the rest, he gave the goats, pigs, and seeds : he intended to have left these useful presents at Atooi, if they had not been so unexpectedly driven from that island. While our people were employed in filling some water-casks from a little stream which the late rains had occasioned. Captain Cook made a short excursion into the country, accompanied by the islander above-mentioned, and followed by two others, who carried the two pigs. When they had arrived upon a rising ground, the captain stopped to look around him, and immedi- ately observed a woman on the opposite side of the valley vvhere he had landed, calling out to her countrymen who attended him. Upon this, the man who acted as chief began to mutter something, as if he was praying ; and the two bearers of the pigs continued walking round the captain all the time, making about a dou i circuits before the other had made an end of his oration. This strange ceremony being performed, they proceeded on their walk, and met people coming from all quarters, who, upon being called to by the captain's attendants, fell prostrate on their faces till he was out of sight. — The ground over which he passed, though it was uncultivated and very stony, was covered with plants and shrubs, some of which perfumed the air with the most delicious fragrance. The party who had been detained so long on-shore, found, in those parts of the island which they had traversed, several salt ponds, some of which had a small quantity of water remaining, but others had none. They saw no appearance of a running stream ; and though, in some small wells which they met ' "ith, the fresh water was pretty good, it seemed to he Gcarce. The houses of the natives were thinly scattered about ; and it was supposed that there were not more than live hundred persons iii the whole island. The method of living among these people was decent and cleanly. No instance was observed of the men and 31-2 cook's TIIIIID VOYAGF,, 177C— 1780. ;i I h 1% women eating together ; and the latter seemed in general to be associated in companies by themselves. The oily nuts of the dooe dooe are burned by these islanders for light during the night ; and they dress their hogs by baking them in ovens, splitting the carcases througlj their whole length. Our people met with a sufficient proof of the existence of the taboo among them: for one woman was employed in feeding another who was under that interdiction. Several other mysterious ceremonies were also observed ; one of which was performed by a woman, who threw a pig into the surf and drowned it, and then tied a bundle of wood, which she also disposed of in the same manner. The same female, at another time, beat a man's shoulders with a stick, after he had seated himself for that purpose. An extraordinary veneration seemed to be paid here to owls, which they keep very tame. It sippeared to be a pretty general practice among them, to pull out one of their teeth; and when they were asked the reason of this remarkable custom, the only answer they gave was, that it was teeha, which was also the reason assigned by them for giving a lock of their hair. After tlie water-casks had been filled, and some roots, salt, and salted fish had been purchased from the natives. Captain Cook returned on-board with all his people, intending to make another visit to the island the next day. But, about seven iu the evening, the anchor of the Resolution started, so that slie drove off the bank. By this accident they found themselves at day-break the next morning, which was the 2nd of February, nine miles to the leeward of their last station ; and the captain, foreseeing that it would require more time to regain it than he chose to employ, made the signal for the Discovery to weigli anchor and join them. ITiis jimction was effected about noon; and both ships immediately directed their course to the north- ward in prosecution of their voyage. Thus, after they had spent more time in the neighbourhood of these islands than was neces- sary to have answered all their purposes, they were obliged to quit them before they had completed their ctock of water, or procured from them such a plentiful supply of refreshments as the natives were both able and willing to have i'urnished them with. The ship, however, obtained from them provisions that lasted at least three weeks ; and Captain Clerke, more fortunate than they were, acquired such a quantity of vegetables as sufficed the Discovery's people upwards of two months. The observations which Captain Cook was enabled to make on these islands combined with those of Mr. Anderson, whose abilities and assiduity rendered him a very usc^ful assistant on such occasions, are as follow : — " The islands in the Pacific Ocean, which have been discovered in the course of our late voyages, have been generally found situated in groups ; the shigle, intermediate isles, hitherto met with, being few in proportion to the rest, though, in all proba- cy seen land. (( cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. 313 i bility, there are many more of them yet iinkno^vn, which serve as gradations or steps between the several clusters. Of what number this newly-discovered Archipelago is composed, must be left to the decision of future navigators. We observed five ol them, whose names are Woahoo, Atooi, Oneeheow, Oreehoua, and Tahoora. The last of these is a small, elevated island, at the distance of about four or five leagues from the south-east point of Oneeheow. We were informed that it abounds with birds, which are its sole inhabitants. We also gained some in- telligence with regard to the existence of a low, uninhabited island in 'the neighbourhood, named Tammatapappa. Besides these six, we were told that there were some other islands both to the eastward and westward. Captain Cook distinguished the whole group by the name of the Sandwich Islands, in honour of the Earl of Sandwich. Those which he saw are situated -between the latitude of !il deg. 30 min., and 22 deg. 15 min. north, and be- tween the longitude of 199 deg. 20 min. and 201 deg. 30 min. east. *^ With respect to Woahoo, the most easterly of these islands, seen by us. we could get no other information but that it is high land, and is inhabited. " Oneeheow, concerning which some particulars have been already mentioned, lies seven leagiies to the westward of our an- choring-place at Atooi, and does not exceed fifteen leagues in circumference. Yams are its principal vegetable production. We procured some salt here, called by the natives patai, which is produced in salt ponds. With it they cure both fish and pork : and some salt fish, which we purchased Irora them, were extremely good, and kept very well. This island is chiefly low land, except the part opposite Atooi, which rises immediately from the sea to a considerable height, as does also its south-east point, which terminates in a round hill. " Of Oreehoua we knew no other particulars than that it is an elevated island, of small extent, lying close to the north-side of Oneeheow. " Of Atooi, which is the largest of those we saw, we shall now proceed to lay before our readers such information as we were able to collect concerning it. From what we observed of it, it is, at least, ten leagues in length from east to west ; from whence its circumference may nearly be guessed, though it appears to be much broader at the east than at the west point. The road, or anchoring-place which our vessels occupied, is on the south-west side of the island, about two leagues from the west-end, before a village named Wymoa. As far as we sounded, we found the bank free from rocks; except to the eastward of the village, where there projects a shoal, on which are some rocks and breakers. This road is somewhat exposed to the trade -wind ; not>vithstanding which defect, it is far from being a bad station, and greatly superior to those which necessity continually obliges ships to use, in countries where the winds are not only more vari- P 14 lU.* M ft'.*' 314 cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780< *'} il' ir able, but more boisterous, as at Madeira, ' reneriife, the Azores, &c. The landing too is not so difficult as at most of those places ; and unless in very bad weather, is always practicable. The water in the neighbourhood is excellent, and may be con- veyed with ease to the boats. But no wood can be cut at any convenient distance, unless the islanders could be prevailed upon to part with the few etooa trees (for tliat is the name they give to the cordia sebestina) that grows about their villages, or a species called dooe dooe, which grows farther up the country. *' The land does not in the least resemble, in its general appear- ance, any of the islands we have visited within thcj tropic of Capricorn ; if we except its hills near the centre, which are hign, but slope gradually towards the sea, or lower lands. Though it be destitute of the delightful borders of Otaheite, or the luxuriant plains of Tongataboo, covered with trees, which at once afford a shelter from the scorching rays of the sun, a beauti- ful prospect to the eye, and food for the natives, yet its possessing a greater portion of gently rising land, renders it in some degree superior to the above-mentioned favourite islands, as being more capable of improvement. The height of the land within, and the number of clouds which we saw during the whole time of our continuance, hanging over it, 'and not unfrequently on the other parts, seem to indicate that there is a sufficient supply of water, and that there are some running streams which we had not an op- portunity of seeing particularly in the deep vallies, at the entrance of which the villages are in general situated. The ground, from tbe wooded part of the sea, is covered with an excellent kind of grass, about two feet in height, which sometimes grows in tufts, and appeared capable of being converted into abundant crops of fine hay. But on this extensive space not even a shrub grows naturally. " In the narrow valley leading to the morai, the soil is of a dark brown colour, rather loose ; but on the high ground it is of a reddish brown, more stiff and clayey. It is probably the same all over the cultivated parts ; for what adhered to most of the potatoes that we purchased, which doubtless came from very dif- ferent spots, was of this sort. Its quality, however, may be better estimated from its productions than from its appearance. For the vale, or moist ground produces taro, much larger than any we had ever seen ; and the more elevated ground furnishes sweet potatoes, that seldom weigh less than two or three pounds, and frequently weigh ten, and sometimes a dozen or fourteen pounds. ^ ^ y Were we to judge of the climate from our experience, it might be said to be very variable ; for, according to the general opinion, it was, at this time, the season of the year when the weather is supposed to be most settled, the sun being at his greatest annual distance. The heat was now very moderate ; and few of those mcooveniences to which many countries lying witl ,to 'quel Uhe 1| grey I rustyi It is thou£ offtol heret probs For, lydiui times coramJ the nai stone. from iJ quantit artifici^ "Bf I among island I as we 0] cocoa-pi I Virginij cape Jai that bea and ma< same mi except i ing thes species which is intoxica last groi which p the villa in this bearing "Th« met witl Canary owl, tW( from th were th( brel. I we may cook's THIIID VOYAOEj 1776 — 1780. 315 Azores, of those icticable. ' be con- it at any prevailed arae they llages, or ountry. il appear- tropic of rhich are er lands, aheite, or which at a beauti- ossessing le degree ;ing more {, and the le of our the other of water, not an op- entrance md, from kind of in tufts, int crops ,b grows |il is of a it is of Jkhe same fe of the rery dif- le better iFor the I any we Is sweet >oundB, )urteen ^nce, it reneral fen the lat his lerate ; lying .within the tropics are subject, either from heat or moisture, seem I to be experienced here. Nor did we find any dews of conse- % quence ; a circumstance whicli may partly be accounted for by I the lower part of the country being destitute of trees. I " The rock that constitutes the sides of the valley, is a dark, grey ponderous stone, but honey-combed, with some spots of a rusty colour, and some very minute, shining particles interspersed. It is of an immense depth, and seems to be divided into strata, though nothing is interposed ; for the large pieces always broke off to a determinate thickness, and did not appear to have ad- ^ liered to those that were below them. Other stones are, in all i probability, much more various than in the southern islands. \ For, during the short time we remained here, besides the lapus f lydius, we found a species of cream-coloured whet-stone, some- i times variegated with whiter or blacker veins, like marble ; and \ common writing slate, as well as some of a coarser sort; and \ the natives brough\' us some pieces of a coarse, whitish pumice- ' stone. We also procured a brown sort of hdematites, which, from its being strongly attracted by the magnet, discovered the quantity of metal it contained. What we saw of this was cut artificially, as were also the slates and whet-stones. " Besides the vegetables purchased by us as refreshments, among which were at least five or six varieties of plantains, the island produces bread-fruit ; this, however, seems to be scarce, as we only saw one tree of that species. There are also a few cocoa-palms, some yams, the kappe of the Friendly Islands, or I Virginian arum ; the etooa tree, and odoriferous gardenia, or cape jasmine. We met with several trees of the dooe dooe, that bear the oily nuts, which are stuck upon a kind of skewer, and made use of as candles. Our people saw them used in the same manner at Oneeheow. We were not on-shore at Atooi, except in the day-time, and then we observed the islanders wear- ing these nuts, hung on strings, round their necks. There is a species of sida^ or Indian mallow ; also tlie morinda citrifolia, which is here called nones a species of convolvulus ; the kava, or intoxicating pepper ; besides great quantities of gourds. These last grow to a very large size, and are of a vast variety of shapes, which probably is effected by art. Upon the dry sand, about the village, grew a plant that had never been seen by any of us in this ocean, of the size of a common thistle, and prickly, but bearing a fine flower, greatly resembling a white poppy. " The scarlet birds, which were brought for sale, were never met with alive ; but we saw one small one, about the size of a Canary bird, of a deep, crimson colour. — ^We also saw a large owl, two brown hawks or kites, and a wild duck. We heard from the natives the names of some other birds, among which were the otoo^ or blueish heron, and the torata, a sort of whim- brel. It is probable that the species of birds ar^ numerous, if we may judge by the quantity of fine yellow, green, and small, P2 I 310 cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. velvet-like, blackish feathers used upon the cloaks, and other ornaments, worn by these people. " Fish, and other jproductions of the sea, were, to appearance, not various ; as, besides the small mackerel, we onlv saw com- mon mullets ; a species of a chalky colour ; a 8mall brownish rock-fish, adorned with blue spots ; a turtle, wuich was penneii up in a pond ; and three or four sorts of fish salted. The few shell-fish seen by us were chiefly converted into ornaments, though they were destitute either of beauty or novelty. *' The only tame or domestic animals that we found here were ho^s, dogs, and fowls, which were ail of the same kind that we met with at the islands of the South Pacific. There were also small lizards, and some rats, resembHng those of every island which we had hitherto visited. " The inhabitants of Atooi are of the middle size, and, in gen- eral stoutly made. They are neither remarkable for a beautiful shape, nor for striking features; their visagtj particularly that of the women, is somewhat round, but others have it long ; nor can it Justly be said that they are distinguished, as a nation, by any general cast of countenance. Their complexion is nearly of a nut own, but some individuals are of a darker hue. We have already mentioned the women as being little more delicate than the men in their formation ; and we may add, that, with few- exceptions, they have little claim to those peculiarities that dis- tinguish the sex in most other parts of the world. There is, in- deed, a very remarkable equality in the size, colour, and figure of the natives of both sexes ; upon the whole, however, they are far from being ugly, and have, to all appearance, few natural de- formities of any kind. Their skin is not very soft nor shining ; but their eyes and teeth are for the most part, pretty good. Their hair, in general, is straight ; and though its natural colour is usually black, they stain it, as at the Friendly and other islands. We perceived but few instances of corpulence and these more frequently among the women than the men ; but it was principally among the latter that personal defects were observed; though, if any of rhem can lay claim to a share of beauty, it appeared to be most conspicuous amongst the young men. "They are active, vigorous, and most expert swimmers; leaving their* canoes upon the most trifling occasion, diving un- der them, and swimming to others, though at a considerable distance. We have frequently seen women, with infants at their breast, when the surf was so high as to prevent their land- ing in the canoes, leap overboard, and swim to the shore, without endai^ering their little ones. '* T^ey appear to be of a frank, cheerful disposition ; and are equally free from the fickle levity which characterizes the inhabi- tants of Otaheite, and the sedate cast which is observed among rnany of those of Tongataboo. They seem to cultivate a social / our.H cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. 317 pearance, saw corn- brownish ) BIS penned The lew ' t», though here were id that we - were also ery island id, in gen- i beautiful ilarly that long; nor nation, by i nearly of hue. VVe re delicate t, with few 3 that dis- md other Intercourse with eacli other; and, except tiie propensity of thieving, which is, as it were, innjite in most of the people we Imve visited in these seas, they were extremely friendly to ii«. And it does no small credit to their sensibility, without flattering ourselves, that when they saw the difierent articles of our Euro- |)ean manufacture, they could not refrain from expressing their astonishment, by a mixture of joy and concern, that seemed to apply the case as a lesson of humility to themselves ; and cii every occasion, they appeared to have a proper consciousness of their own inferiority ; a behaviour that equally exempts their national character from the ridiculous pride of the more polished Japanese, and of the ruder native of Greenland. It was pleas- ing to observe with what affection the women managed their infants, and with what alacrity the men contributed their assist- ance in such a tender oflice ; thus distinguishing themselves from those savages who consider a wife and child as things rather necessary than desirable, or worthy of their regard and esteem. " From the numbers that we saw assembled at every village as we coasted along, it may be coiyecturedthat the inhabitants of tiiis island are pretty numerous. Including the straggling houses, there might perhaps be, in the whole island, sixty such villages as that near which our ships anchored ; and if we allow five per- sons to each house, there would be in every village five hundred, or, thirty thousand upon the island. This number is by no means exaggerated ; for there were sometimes three thousand people at least collected upon the beach, when it could not be supposed that above the tenth part of the natives were present. " The ordinary dress of both sexes has been already described. The women have often much larger pieces of cloth wrapped about them, extending from just below the breasts to the hams, and sometimes lower ; and several were observed with pieces thrown loosely over their shoulders, which covered the greatest part of the body ; but the children, when very young, are entirely naked. They wear nothing upon the head ; but the hair both of men and women is cut in various forms; and the general fashion, particularly among the latter, is to have it short behind^ and long before. The men frequently had it cut on each side, in such a manner, that the remaining part somewhat resembled the crests of their caps, or helmets before-mentioned. Both sexes, however, seemed to be very careless about their hair, and had no combs nor any thing of the kind to dress it with. The men sometimes twist it into a number of separate parcels, like the tails of a wig, each about as thick as a finger ; though most of these, which are so long as to reach far down the back, are artificially fixed upon the head over their own hair. " Contrary to the general practice of most of the islands of the Pacific Ocean, the people of the Sandwich Isles have not their immers ; Iving un- Vderable Ifants at jir land- [without md are inhabi- among social 318 cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. I 4 ears perforated; nor do they wear any ornaments in them. Both men and women, however, adorn themselves with necklaces composed of bunches of small, black cord, often above a hun- dred fold, exactly resembling those we saw worn at Wateeoo, except that, instead of the two little balls on the middle before, the v fix a small piece of wood, stone, or shell, abont two inches in length, with a broad hook, well polished. They have alsn necklaces of many strings of very small shells, or of the dried flowers of the Indian mallow ; and they sometimes hang round their necks a small human figure of bone, about the length of three inches. The women likewise wear bracelets of a single shell, pieces of black wood, with bits of ivory interspersed, and neatly polished, fastened together by a string drawn closely through them, or others of hogs' teeth, placed parallel to each other, with the concave part outward, and the points cut off; some of which, formed only of large boars' tusks, are very ele- gant. The men sometimes wear on their heads plumes of feathers of the tropic-bird, or those of cocks, fastened round neat, polished sticks, two feet in length ; and for the same pur- pose they sew the skin of a white dog's tail over a stick, with its tuft at the end. They also not unfrequently wear on the head a kind of ornament, of the thickness of a finger or more, covered with yellow and red feathers, curiously varied, and tied behind; and on that part of the arm which is above the elbow, a sort of broad shell-work grounded upon net-work. ** The men sometimes puncture themselves upon their hands or arms, and near the groin ; but frequently we saw no marks at all, though a few individuals had more of this species of orna- ment than we had usually seen at other places, and curiously executed in a great variety of lines and figures, on the arms and forepart of the body. Contrary to the custom of the Friendly and Society Islands, they do not slit or cut oflf any part of the I)repuce ; but have it universally drawn over the glands, and tied with a string. " There is no appearance of defence or fortification near any of their villages, and the houses are scattered about without the least order. Some of these habitations are large and commo- dious, from forty to fifty feet in length, and twenty or thirty in breadth, while others of them are contemptible hovels. Their figure resembles that of hay-stacks ; or, perhaps, a better idea may be conceived of them, by supposing the roof of a bam placed on the ground, in such a manner as to form a high, acute ridge, with two low sides. The gable at each end corresponding to the sides, makes these habitations close all round ; and they are well thatched with long grass, which is laid on slender poles. The entrance is made either in the end or side, and is an oblong hole, extremely low ; it is often shut up by a board of planks fastened together, which serves as a door; but, as it has no hinges, must be removed occasionally. No light enters the I: mar taiul that! Ofi uui and stocl ing- tolei torn m\ cook's thihd voyage, 1776 — 1780. 319 in them, necklaces ive a hun- VVateeoo, lie before, wo inches have also the dried uig round length of f a single rsed, and '^n closely 1 to eacn 3 cut off; ; very ele- )lume8 of ed round same pur- c, with its he head a f covered d behind; . a sort of leir hands marks of orna- uriously irms and [Friendly of the ids, and lear any Ihout the Icommo- Ihirty in Their ter idea I a bam 1, acute [onding jd they poles. )blong )lank8 lias no rs the house except by this opening ; and though such close habitations way be comfortable places of retreat in bad weather, they seem but ill adapted to the warm climate of this country. ' They are kept remarkably clean, and the floors are strewed with dried grass, over which mats are spread to sit and sleep on. At one end stands a bench about three feet high, on which the domestic utensils are placed. These consist of gourd-shells, which the natives convert into vessels that serve as bottles to hold water, and as baskets to contain their food, and other thuigs ; and also of a few wooden bowls and trenchers of various size. " From what we saw growing, and from what was brought to market, we have no doubt that sweet potatoes, taro, and plan- tains, constitute the principal part of their vegetable diet; ami that yams and bread-lruit are rather to be considered as rarities. Of animal food they appear to be in no wai.c, as they have great numbers of hogs, wliich run without restraint about the houses ; and if thev eat dogs, which is not altogether improbable, their stock of these seemed very considerable. The quantities of iish- ing-books found among them, indicated that they procure a tolerable supply of animal food from the sea. They have a cus- tom of salting fish, and likewise pork, wliich they preserve in gourd-shells. The salt which they use for this purpoije is of a reddish colour, but not very coarse, and seems to be nearly the same with what our stragglers found at Christmas Island, lift colour is doubtless derived from a mixture of mud at the bottom of the part where it is formed ; for some of it, which adhered in lumps, was of a tolerable whitenes i. " They bake their vegetable articles of food with heated stones ; and from the great quantity which we saw dressed at one time, we imagined that all the inhabitants of a village, or at least a considerable number of people, joined in the use of a common oven. We did not perceive them dress any animal food at this island ; but Mr. Gore's party, as has been already mentioned, observed that it was dressed at Oneeheow in the same kind of ovens ; which makes it highly probable that this is also the prac- tice at Atooi ; particularly, as we met vsdth no utensil there that could serve the purpose of boiling or stewing. The only arti- ficial dish we saw there was a taro pudding, which, though very sour, was devoured with avidity by the natives. They eat off a sort of wooden trenchers ; and as far as we were enabled to judge from one instance, the women, if restrained from feeding at the same dish with the men, as is the custom at Otaheite, are at least allowed to eat in the same place near them. " The amusements of these people are various. We did not see the dances at which they use the feathered cloaks and caps; but from the motions which they made with their hands on other occasions, when they sung, we judged they vvere somewhat simi- lar to those we had met with at the southern islands, though not so skillfully performed. They had not among them either flutes I M.t % m ^1* !:fi I I 320 COOrs THIUD VOVAOE, 1776-1780. t I or reeds • and th -'-^i., 1776-1780. -Iod;dS^'4^^^^ '''\'y - -re "^ay be SSn ? ^^'^^ «^ ^ cliild'« rattle iT "'"* P^«*i"<^e a lowed at thTKf^ ? "r« carinverted h ?"'^'^, °^ ^^^^ ^ticJi, and life ""fi^^ «^^ «ed^e-l"ke ' Ian, ^,k* "^^^ ^»«^e hol- red feat] ers and? t^ "^^^^^ «re embSiw^ '^R'^r P^^^ o^" liolding the ins^.f ^^3^ P«t something to ratff^ iH^^ ' ^""''^J- before the face r^» ^^ ^^" «"^al?parr"i^^^' J^^.^ '«.do"e by other hand Tl.i'^''^ ?^"»e time, SkVnJ^I A^'"^ '^ bri^J^Jy ^iiich one of o '^ combined with the ni/^^^^J «^ ^^ood, ^'bat ike a s^pll ' "^^'^^"^^one J)efore mentin^^ PJ^^ ^^ bowl^ which are ver,lar''vH"^ rounded ^tt'"1^ '''^^"P^^ some of a reddish hrnw^^^,P°^^«bed. They havj fi^^^^, ^"^ ^^des, ^"ol:•^r4«"-~e:x:/e„'l;rv^^^ "-« appear, some of the '^ H ^"V^ataboo and oi»h^^ Joi-btless m ti,e « in wiiat manner tliey pruducu by us were t produce a ists of what ry little hol- pper part of til beautiful ed a gourd- 1 is done by ig it brisk ly ist with the »el of wood, o sticks, on rming. He i one hand, : it Avith the in a quicker 3 time upon d, and thus \ music was men, whose ods, of the an the ram- air fixed on their divtr- L, and hold- a horizon- same side, y at bowls iped some- land sides, wis made ion of the so use aa [scarcely a [e appears Is. Their Iss in tiie ]e boug'it K texture, lof either Ing it the > inlii'ite inuectl, of tin; ley have ' U e hruduce cook's third voyage, 1/76 — 1780. 3*21 ■J tlieir coloun-} ; but, besides the variegated sorts, tliey have some pieces of plain, white cloth, and others of a single colour, par- ticularly light-blue and dark-brown. In general, the pieces brought to us were about the breadth of two feet, and lour or five yards in length, being the form nnd quantity made use of by them for their common dress or maro ; and even some of these were composed of pieces sewed together. They have also a particular sort that is thin, and greatly resembles oil-cloth, and which is either oiled, or soaked in some kind of varnish. They fabricate numbers of white mats, which are strong, with many red stripes, rhombuses, and other figures interwoven on one .side. These, in all )>robability, occasionallv make a part of their dress ; fct .vhen they offered them to sale they put them on their Imcks. Tiiey manufacture others of a coarser sort, plain and strong, which they spread over their floors to sleep upon. " They stain their gourd-shells neatly with undulated lines, tjiangles, and otlier figures of a t)lack colour. — 'J'hey also seem to be acquainted with the art of varnishing ; ioi some of these stained gourd-shells ?.re covered with a sort of lacker; and on other occasions they make use of a strong size, or glutinous substance, to fasten things togethei'. Their wooden dishes and bowls, out of which they drink tlieir kava, are of the etooa tree, or cordia, extremely neat and well polished. They also make small, square fans of mat or wicker-work, with handles of the same, or of wood, tapering from them, which are 'curiously wrought with small cords of hair and cocoa-nut fibres intermixed. Their fishing-hooks are ingeniously made, some of bone, many of pearl-shells, and others of wood, pointed with hone. The bunes are for the most part small, and consist of two pieces, and the various sorls have a barb, either on the insi testified on seeing our ships, and their total ignorance of the use of fire-arms, cannot be reconciled wilii sucli an opinion. There are many ways by which such people may obtain pieces of iron, or acquire the knowledge of the exist- ence of that metal, without having had an immediate connection with those nations that use it. It can scr^rcely be doubted that it was unknown to all the inhabitants of the Pacific Ocean till Magalhaens led the way to it ; for no navigator, immediately after his voyage, found any of this metal in their possession; though, in the course of our late voyages, it has been remarked that the use of it was known at several islands, which no former Euro- pean vessels had ever to our knowledge visited. At all the places where Mendana touched, during his two voyages, some of it must have been left ; and this would doubtless extend the knowledge of it to all the various islands with which the people whom he visited had any immediate intercourse. It might even have been carried further ; and where specimens of this valuable article could not be met with, descriptions might in some degree serve to make it known, when afterward seen. Tlie next voyage to the southward of the equator, in which any intercourse was had with the people who inhabit the islands ol' this ocean, was that of Quiros, who landed at Sagittaria, the Island of 1^ vndsome People, and at Tierra del Espiritu Santo ; at all whicn places, as well as at those wil'i which they had an) communication, it must undoubtedly have been made known. To him succeeded, in this navigation, Le Maire and Schouten, whose connection with the natives began much farther to the eajstward, and terminated at Cocos and Horn Islands. It is certain that the inhabitants of Otaheite and the Society Isles had a knowledge of iron, and purchased it with the greatest avidity, when Captain Wallis discovered Otaheite ; and tjiey could only have acquired this knowledge through the mediation of those ncigli- bouring islands at which it had been originally left. Tliey a< - knowledge, indeed, that this was really the case ; and they havt since informed us, that they held it in such estimation before the arrival of Captain Wallis, that an Otaheitean chief, who had got possession of two nails, received no small emolument, by letting out the use of them to his neighbours, for the purpos"^ of boring liolrH. The natives of the Society Islands, whom we found at Wdteeoo, had been driven to that place long after ti^e knowledge and use of iron had been thus introduced amon^if their countrymen ; and though, perhaps '''ey had no specimen oi' it with them, thev would naturally communicate at that island, by description, their knowledge of this useful metal. From the people of Wateeoo, again, those of Hervey 's Island might derive \ M j^i cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. 323 I nl I possession use of this e were not very great their total idled TviUi Lich people if the exist- connection )ubted that Ocean till lately after i; though, ed that the mer Euro- At all the ^ges_, some extend the the people It might ?ns of this i might ill i^ard seen, which any islands ol' ttaria, the tu Santo; had an} e known, chouten, er to the Is. It is les had a ity,when nly have |.se neigli- Tliey a<- ey have fore the ho had icM, by posv<» of om we fter ti:e amonji; fcimen or" land; by |om the derive that inclination for it, of which we had sufficient proofs during our short intercourse with them. * The consideration of these facts will shew how the know- ledge of iron has been conveyed throughout the Pacific Ocean, to islands which never had an immediate connection with Euro- peans ; and it may be easily imagined, that wherever the history of it only has been reported, or a very inconsiderable quantity of it has been left, the greater eagerness will be shewn by the inhabitants to procure plentiful supplies of it. The application of tliese particulars, to the object of our present consideration, is manifest. The natives of Atooi and Oneeheow, without having ever been visited by Europeans before us, might have received this metal from intermediate islands, situated between them and the Ladrones, which the Spaniards have frequented almost ever iiince the period of Magalhaens's voyage. Or, if the distant western position of the Ladrones should detract from the proba- bility of this solution, is there not the American continent to vjrindward, where the Spaniards have been settled for upwards of two centuries and a half; during which long space of time, ship- wTecks must frequently have happened on its coasts ? It cannot be deemed suiprising, that part of such wrecks, containing iron, should, by the easterly trade winds, be occasionally cast upon some of these islands which are dispersed about this immense ocean. The distance of Atooi from America is no argument against this supposition ; and even if it were, it would not destroy it. This ocean is annually traversed by Spanish vessels ; and it is highly probable, that, besides the accident of losing a mast and its appendages, casks with iron hoops, and many other things that contain iron, may fall or be thrown overboard during so long a passage, and thus find their way to land. These are not mere conjectures ; for one of our people actually saw some wood in a house at Wymoa, which he supposed to be iir : it was worm-eaten, and the natives informed him, that it had been taining 'hose parte th^'.'"'" ^'"^te, was Zparen ,v i ^""^f S^-^afe" that fte'sl peopfc dTnoTt™'"'"' • ^t mCferf r'.T' 7 mage a,^" ret"'^'"».nV\ey Prostrate 4e2".ll"^.' "''» '•e?ide were. at AtVj;a„Ttr;hr r."'^ '^''^derrinforl'd "^ "",">' '^"^ on-board tCDlcterT^'lT"''' """J- ^^"ed'^t "^^"c/'T' hke thesovereiirnnf.i. li^ came off' in a donhl. '^'"''e small canoes ZuiL^Jl'^lfk Wes, m^l^^^l "H over them, withn.,/ ™ i • " .* '» his wuv hiif ™ ^ ™- 1" "'e And if was mpo sil>rf'"?. *« '^ast atfe. "' T. '«?"?' "' mSTtirlS -^-^^^^^^^^^^ i til more juda;. ed by paddles, as ; and some a a mast and >ats, ai,d the >^ «iid neatly f agriculture. »/o and some 'mg carefully ugar-cane or grreat regu- sed with any grounds as ^onvey water "ese articles > as natural em than to these latter ?"• skill in » seemed to Maintaining tile greater od a soil as |e inferred, uich woul.l e extent of vegetable ^ote, there ^«o reside a mark of ent tothe id is here I'st, afraid lot deter- ■ of these ti Gierke oe; and, d to the ■ainst, or id them, him, for Jcessary he had ard the I round y suiier He wsxH cook's third voyage, 1776- -17S0. 335 , *,,„ 1/50. 0(Q) was safd to be^aSa,;o °cS,rfc''r^!'*'- ».» naSfe some presents receivpfl fr«^ i •'^ i-lerke liavuig made liim ported by two SpZlotZnThJ" '""''""" ? '"'■«« bowl! sup some degree of *llXthS4tec?rtrS "!"«'' *^P'»"e'd bon. TK,s bowl used to be fi led^«Sfh ,J t* ''^"S" and execu- termed »' Otaheite). which 1^ l^'''*ett:i^"^''T' (-." « termed at Otahe.fe)!wLh liofo, ?"' '"^ *«"« "' <»«. (as it Is a^ at the other isL^TSr^^iicZT'^ '!?!* drinVhere VPon tl.ischie(Wo &"• ^^P*""' C'erke coidd not prevail upon thL chleffn . r^"- ^^P^ain Gierke the spot where his attSanifl. /2 ^'^^^^^ "«r ti move from remainmg some time in the «}' h. ^''^ ^^^''^ ^^'^^'X aftej canoe, and returned to the iZnd T^ ^If""^^ ^^'^ ^nioh'l messages were sent to Cantaln pL L- ''^- ^«P«^ing day, several the visji on-shore, and giving him f^^^ J"^^^'"^ him to return c^nta^nT- '^ " ^?«-d-abhf pre'en't &*"'^^- '^'^ ^'^e 'S captain beingr anxious ; o g-et nnf f!f ^ *^^ occasion ; but the did not think proner tn n ^ ?"..*? ^^^ and join the I?Lc^ V ;: The shor^t Zl tpertct^'i/^ ^""^^^^-" ^^esolution, natives, did not enable us tn f "^**^^course we had w.fh ih niuse besides this tn I ^^ scarcely need as.ion ^^''^ ^* 4^) kl £*.!*' I h ''' ! -'.1 ll^ 4 '■ ill , 1 ; ; 1' § M §m f! 1 3-26 cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. li , Wi -I I ^■ tlissect the dead bodies of their enemies, may also be ranked among their weapons, as they both strike and cut with it when engaged in close figlit. It is a small, flat, wooden instrument, about a foot in length, of an oblong shape, rounded at the cor- ners ; its edges are surrounded with sharks' teeth strongly fixed to it, and pointing outwards ; and it has generally a hole in the handle, through which passes a long stnng, which they wrap several times round the wrist. We also conjectured, that they use slings on some occasions; we procured some pieces of haematites or blood-stone, artifically made of an oval form, lon- gitudinally divided, with a narrow groove in the middle of the convex part. To this, the person who had one of them, applied a thin cord, but would not dispose of it, though he was not unwilling to part with the stone, which, as it weighed a pound, must prove fatal whe;; thrown with some degree of force. We likewise saw some pieces of whet-stone neatly polished of an oval figure, but somewhat pointed towards each end ; nearly resembling in shape some stones seen by Captain Cook, at New Caledonia, in 1774, and made use of there in slings. '' As some of their rehgious institutions, and their method of disposing of their dead, strongly indicate an affinity between the manners of these people, and of the natives of the Friendly and Society Islands, we shall mention a few particulars that will serve to place this in a striking point of view. The inhabitants of Tongataboo bury their dead with great decency, and they also inter tlieir human sacrifices ; but they do not, to our knowledge, offer any other animals, or even vegetables to their deities. The Otaheiteans do not inter their dead, but expose them to waste by time and putrefaction, though they aftervrards bury the bones ; and, as this is the case, it is remarkable that they should inter the entire bodies of their human sacrifices. They also offer up to their gods other animals and vegetables ; but, are far from being attentive to the condition of the places where they celebrate those solemn rites ; most of their morals being m a ruinous state, and shewing manifest tokens of neglect. The people of Atooi, again, bury their common dead and their human sacrifices, as at Tongataboo ; but, they resemble those of Otaheite, in offering vegetables and animals to their gods, and in the neglected state of their religious places. *' The taboo also prevails in Atooi, in its full extent, and appa- rently with greater strictness than even at Tongataboo. For the natives here always asked, with great eagerness, and with indi- cations of a fear of offending, whether any particular thing which they desired to see, or we were unwilling to shew, was a taboo, or, (as they i)ronounced the word) tafoof The mai, raa^ or prohibited articles at the Society Islands, though undoubtedly the same thing, did not appear to be so rigorously observed by them, except with regard to the dead, respecting whom we thought them more superstitious than any of the others were. \ cook's third voyage, 177C — 1780. 927 >e ranked ;h it when strnment, t the cor- igly fixed inle in the ;hey wrap that they pieces of form, lon- dle of the applied a unwilling lust prove Bwise saw igure, but f in shape , in 1774, iiethod of between Friendly that will habitants they also owledge, es. The to waste ury the should ey also :, are far [ere they ng m a t. The human taheite, in the appa- ''or the th indi- which taboo, la, or Ibtedly jed by |m we were. These, however, are circumstances concerning which we cannot pretend to speak decisively ; and, we shall only observe, to shew the similitude in other points connected with religion, that the tahounas, or priests, seem to be as numerous here as at the other islands. '' But whatever resemblance we might discover, between the general manners of the inhabitants of Atooi to those of Otaheite, these were less striking than the similarity of language. Indeed, the languages of both places may be said to be almost entirely the same. The people of Atooi, in general, have neither the strong guttural pronunciation of the New Zealanders, nor that smaller degree of it which also distinguishes the Friendly Islanders ; and, they have not only adopted the soft mode of the Otaheiteans, in avoiding harsh sounds, but the whole idiom of their language ; using, not only the same affixes and suffixes to their words, but the same measure and cadence in their songs. At first hearing, indeed a stranger may perceive some disagreement; but, it should be con- sidered, that the natives of Otaheite, from their frequent connec- tions with the English, had learned, in some measure, to adapt themselves to our imperfect knowledge of their language, by using not only the most common, but even corrupted expressions in conversation with us ; whereas, when they talked with each other, and used the several parts necessary to propriety of speech, they were hardly at all understood by those amongst us, who had made the greatest progress in the knowledge of their vocabulary. A list of words was collected at Atooi, by the indefatigable Mr. An- derson, who embraced every opportunity of rendering our voyage useful, to those who amuse themselves, in tracing the emigra- tions of the tribes that have peopled the globe, by the most convincing of all arguments, that drawn from affinity of language. *' How widely has this nation diffused itself, in so many de- tached islands, so far distant from each other, in everv quarter of the Pacific Ocean ! We find it, from New Zealand, a\ the south, as far as the Sandwich Islands to the north; and, in another direction, from Easter Island, to the New Hebrides : that is, over an extent of 60 degrees of latitude, or 3,600 miles, north and south ; and 83 degrees of longitude, or 4,980 miles, east and west ! How much further, in either of those directions, its colonies reach, is not known ; but, from what we are already acquainted with, we are authorized in pronouncing it to be the most exten- sive nation upon earth, though perhaps, not the most numerous. " If the Sandwich Islands had been discovered at an early period by the Spaniards, they would doubtless have availed themselves of so excellent a situation, and have made use of Atooi, or some otiier of the islands, as a place of refreshment for the ships that sail annually between Manilla and Acapulco. — Tliey lie almost mid-way between the last mentioned place and Guam, one of the Ladrones, which is at present their only port in traversing this vast ocean ; and it would not have been a I \ 1 ^ i i m J' S28 cook's third voyage, 177G — 1780. week's sail, out of their ordinary route to have touched at them. An acquaintance with the Sandwich Isles, would also have been equally favourable to our Buccaneers, who have sometimes passed froni the coast of America to the Ladrones, with a stock of pro- visions and water scarcely adequate to the support of life. Here they might always have met with a plentiful supply, and have been within a month's sail of the very part of California, which the Manilla ship is obliged to make. How happy would Lord Anson have been, and what difficulties would lie have avoided, had he known that there was a cluster of islands, half-way be- tween America and Tinian, where all his wants might have been effectually relieved ! " We now return to the progress of their voyage : — The Discovery having joined, they stood away to the north- ward, with a gentle gale from the east, but the tides are so incon- siderable at the Sandwich Islands, that with the great surf breaking against the shore, it was difficult at all times to know whether they had high or low water, or whether it ebbed or flowed. On the soutli-side of Atooi, a current generally set to the westward or north-westward; but, at anchor oft' Oneeheow, they found a current setting nearly north-west and south-east, six hours each way. This was doubtless a regular tide, and the flood apj)eared to come from the north-west. On Saturday, the 7th of February, being in the latitude of 29 deg. north, and in the longitude of 200 deg. east, the wind veered to the south-east, l^hey steered north-east and east till the 12th, when the wind had veered round to the north-east and east-north-east : and then tacked, and stood to the northward, being in the latitude of 30 deg. north, and in the longitude of 206 deg. 15 min. east. In this advanced latitude, and even in the winter season, they had only begun to feel a sensation of cold in the mornings and evenings ; a proof of the equal and durable influence of the heat of the sun, at all times, to 30 deg. on each side the line. After that, the disproportion is known to become very great. This must be principally attributed to the direction of the sun's rays, independent of the bare distance, which is not equal to the effect. On Thursday, the 19th of Fe- bruary, the wind veered to the south-east, and they were again enabled to steer to the east, inchning a little to the north. On the 25th. they reached the latitude of 42 deg. 30 min., and in the longitude of 219 deg., when they began to meet with the rock- weed, mentioned in Lord Anson's voyage by the name of sea- leek, which is generally seen by the Manilla ships. Sometimes a piece of wood appeared ; but, if they had not known tliem- ;elves near the continent of North America, they might have supposed, from the few signs of the vicinity of land that had been seen, tliat they were not within some thousand leagues of anv. Since leavuig the Sandwich Islands, they had hardly beheld a bird, or any oceanic animal. 4 ;.r. COOIL'S THIllD VOIAOE, 177C — 1780. 329 3d at them. have been mes passed ick of pro- lite. Here , and have , which the 3nld Lord e avoided, alf-way be- have been the north- e so incon- great surf s to know ebbed or ally set to )neeheow, south-east, 3, and the tude of 29 the wind east till east and rthward, gitude of even in isation of jqual and 30 deg. inown to Id to the listance, of Fe- |:e again Ih. On Id in the rock- of sea- letimes them- It have it had fues of hardly On the 1st of March, they had a calm day ^ which was suc- ceeded by a wind from the north, with which they stood to the east, intending to make land, and ought to have been near it, according to the charts. Such moderate and mild wea- ther, appeared extraordinary, when they were so far north, and so near an extensive continent, at this time of the year. This season must have been remarkably mild, for Sir Francis Drake, met with very severe cold in this latitude, even in the month of June. Viscaino, indeed, who was in the same part of the world, in the depth of winter, hardly takes notice of the cold, and mentions a ridge of snowy mountains on this coast, as something extraordinary. It is a singular circumstance, that they should meet with so few birds, compared to those they had seen in the same latitudes to tiie south of the line. This must either proceed from a scarcity of them, or from a deficiency of resting-places. Hence, it may be concluded, that, in the southern hemisphere, beyond 40 deg. the species are much more numerous, and the islands more plentifully scattered, than any where near that latitude, between the coast of California and Japan. On the morning of the !2nd, duiing a calm, part of the sea appeared to be covered with a kind of slime, and some small sea animals were seen swimming about. Those, which were most conspicuous, were of the gelatinous kind, almost globular ; a smaller sort, had a white or shining appearance, and were in great abundance. Some of the latter, were put into a glass cup, with some salt water;. And, when in a prone situation, they appeared like small scales or pieces of silver. Wlien they swam about, which they did with equal ease in various directions, they emitted the brightest colours of the most valuable gems, according to their position, with respect to the light. At one time they appeared pellucid, at another, displayed the various tints of blue, from a sapphirine to a violet, mixed with a kind of ruby, and glowing with a sufficient strength to illuminate the vessel and water. When the vessel was held to tlie strongest light, the tints appeared most vivid, but almost vanished when the animals subsided to the bottom, and they had then a brownish appearance. By candle-light, the colour was principallva beautiful, pale green, with 'a burnished gloss; and in the dark, it had a faint appearance of glowing fire. They are a new species of ouiscus, and were called by Mr. Anderson onisciisfiUgens ; being^ supposed to be an animal that contributes to that lucid appearance, often observed at sea in the night. Two large birds, settled this day on the water near the ship : one was the procellaria maxima^ and the other of little more than half the magnitude of the former, appearing to be of the albntross kind. It was larger than a sea-gull, but resembled it in other respects. About noon, on the 6th, they beheld two seals, and several whales^ and early tlie next morning, the long- ' i"- 'i- : 1^ '•' S30 itnf V *,. . ^^^^- 1$ •^ted co,«t of N^ r '"' '"^~im. rr*^tr?i»"fro^^^^^^^^^^ "stance of ten ,1?^ td-£ It: :■""■"• -' «e£„d-tets "high h«twftr»"^':»»''J««'.ho^ve?nl?"fc''''«'-ef' 'virt Captain Coori»Tl«P°w'aHhe north! '*'' '''■'"° 'hera S *«f feather he 2^^' ?,^P^ F»»t«4 her f;!"^"'*^' '-hich After variable &'■''' ""*' "' di' «;;«h a lineof X W-f "J"'^'*' •>„* oouW n?t 1^' ''"'an • J"" P^afmidnigh"* „7i«d !»d sixty fath"m,''rj.t *« ff'-und n«.' morning^ thev „ *«" «tood in again /; 1.1]^^^ ^'oo"^" off fovered mO^L'!!' •'?'' ™'ng ground! ^^''"' ™""n. I, fs %h,grerS .nitf?^^''' .'■*«*'' an7othe?^t1."^,''''"hich a" "emg covered with snow; I distance of ten outh-east. At north, and in »a about eight ^er a muddy «e farther off. 'eared to be covered with .Jtself, except rom them at emity, which e exceeding lock in the vest. They ^S to range at four, the lualls, with '-east; but, and seeing icked, and 3ore north- 'orth-west, hazy and •ay, when ^oiin the nfJ veered ' obliged morning, they dia- ' disiant. • ground stood off t six the le land. ^timung ng then COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE, 1776- _, . , """« VUYAOE, 1776— l7Hn ^ich seemed to lie in nK ^ 331 any oS K^A-^r ' '•'""•«'" '" -e^ Part not h • beach ; though ,1 ™' andtermmated in a kin^^l* ?^} ^^^"ff 5^36 deg. 52min. eaJ Tk ^' ^ .'"^"- "orth, and ifl J^ uT named Cane firl.1 • t.^ southern extrei^P *k longitude »t veered to the we^t «nrf ^^^^^^^^ mistaken, for at fiL^'?1 ^? II i, 2^}^ t:i] ) ,fc.: Vt?i IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) fe {./ fc- X^ % ■V^ i, vv % /. f/. tf & ^ 1.0 I.I Ik 150 uo III 2.0 IL2I 114 11.6 Hiotographic Sciences Corporation .' WfST MAIN STREET MEBSTER.N.Y. 14580 (716) 873-4503 L

west, with which they stretched up to an arm of the inlet, which ran into the north-east. Here they were again becalmed, and found it necessary to anchor in eighty-five fathoms' water, and so near the land as to be able to reach it with a hawser. — The Discovery was becalmed before she got within the arm, when she anchored in seventy fathoms' water. As soon as they approached the inlet they perceived the coast to be inhabited ; and three canoes came on to the ship at the place where they were first becalmed, iii one of whi<'h were two men, in another six, and in the third ten. Advancing pretty near, a person stood up in one of the two last, and spoke for a considerable time, inviting the ships, as was supposed by his gestures, to go a&hore : and at the same time continued strewing^ handfuls of feathers towards them. Some of his companions also threw a red powder in the same manner. The person who was the orator upon this occasion was clothed with the skin of some animal, and held something in each hand, which rattled as he shook it. At length, grown weary with his repeated exhortations, of which they could not comprehend a ^'ord, he became quiet ; and the others, in their turn, had some«. •* 334 cook's tiiihd voyage, 1776 — 1780. M thing to Stay to them ; but their speeches were neither so long l!ll %■ nor so vehement as that of the other. The hair of two or three I' of these people was strewed over with small, white feathers, and that of others with large ones, stuck into different parts. The tumultuous noise having ceased, they lay at a small dis- tance from the ship, conversing together with much ease and composure, without shewing the least distrust or surprise. Some of them rose occasionally, and said something aloud, after the manner of their first harangues, and one in particular sang a most agree? j\e air, accompanied with ^. great degree of melody and softness, the word haeia being f^'equently repeated as tl^ burden of the song. A breeze springing up soon after, brought the rjjipn rln irr to tlie shore, when the canoes began to visit them in great numbers, having had, at one time, no less than thirty-two of them about the ship, containing from three to seven or eight persons each, and of both sexes. Several of them also stood up and spake aloud, using the same gestures as the first visitors. One canoe piarticularly attracted observation, by a peculiar head, which had a bird's eve, and an enormous large beak painted on it. The person who was in it, and who appeared to be a chief, was equally remarkable for his singular appearance, having a large quantity of feathers hanging from his head, and being painted or smeared in a very extraordinary manner. In his hand he had a carved bird of wood, of the size of a pigeon, with which he often rattled, like the person before mentioned, and was equally vociferous in his harangue, which he accompanied with many expressive gestures. Though these natives were so peaceabfe that they could not be suspected of any hostile intention, not any of them could be prevailed upon to come on-board. They were very ready, however, to part with any thing they had, and I >Bi received whatever was offered them in exchange ; but were more solicitous after iron than any other articles of commerce, appearing to be no strangers to the use of that valuable metal. The ships were followed by many of the canoes to the an- choring-place ; and a group, consisting of about ten or a dozen of them, continued alongside the Resolution the greatest part of the night. Hence our people flattered themselves, that they wepe ^ comfortably situated as to be able to get all their wants sup- plied, and forget the delays and hardships they had experienced m almost a constant succession of adverse winds and tempestuous weather, ever since their arrival upon this coast. Having happily found such excellent shelter for the ships, in an inlet whose coasts appeared to be inhabited by an inoffensive race of people, no time was lost after coming to anchor, in searching for a commodious harboui*, where they might hf sta- tioned during their continuance in the Sound. Upon this service Captain Cook sent three armed boats, under tne command of Mr. King, and went himself in a small boat, on the same busi- .■H cook's third voyage, 1776—1780. 335 Insive )r, in nesiJ. He had no (lifliculty in finding what he wanted: for, on the north-west of the arm, and at a small distance from tne ships, he found a convenient, snug cove, perfectly adapted to their pur- Eose. Mr. King was also successful and found a still better arbour, Iving on the north-west side of the land. It would, however, have required more time to take the ships thither than to the cove v.^here the captain had been, tlierefore his choice was determined in favour of the latter situation : but, apprehending tliat tliey could not transport the ships to it, and moor them properly, before night had overtaken them, he thought it prudent to continue where they were till the next morning. Plenty of canoes, fiUed with inhabitants, were about the ships tlie Tvhole day ; and a reciprocal trade was commenced between them, which was conducted with the strictest harmony and ;. ^egrity on both sides. The articles of commerce were the skins of various animals ; such as bears, sea-otters, wolves, foxes, deer, racoons, martins, and pole-cats. They also produced garments made of skins ; and another kind of clothing, fabricated from the bark of a tree, or a plant resembling hemp. Besictes these articles, they had bows, arrows, and spears ; fish-hooks, and various kinds of instruments ; wooden vizors, representing horrid figures ; a sort of woollen stuif ; carved work ; beads, and red ochre : also several little ornaments of thin brass and iron, resembling a horse-shoe, which they wear pendent at their noses. They had likewise several pieces of iron fixed to handles, somewhat resembling chisels. From their being in possession of these metals, it was natural to infer, that they must either have been visited before by persons of some civilized nation, or liad connections with those on their own continent, wlio had aoiue communication with them. Among all the articles, however, which they exposed to sale, the most extraordinary were human skulls and hands, with some of tlie flesh remaining on them, which they acknowledged they had been feeding on ; and some of them indeed bore evident marks of their having been upon the fire. From this circum- stance, it was but too apparent, that the horrid practice of de> vouring their enemies is practised here, as much as at New Zealand, and other South Sea Islands. For the various articles tliey brought, they received in exchange knives, chisels, nails, looking-glasses, buttons, pieces of iron or tin, or any kind of metal : Uiey had not much inclination for glass beads, and re- jected every kind of cloth. The next day was employed in hauling the ships into the cove, wliere they were moored : and it was found, on heaving up the an- chor, notwithstanding the great depth of water, that rocks weije at the bottom ; these had greatly injured the cable, as well as thd hawsers that were carried out to warp the ship into the cove ; consequently, the whole bottom was strewed with rocks. The ship was now become very leaky in her upper works ; the car- 'r*T M *: i w* 336 cook's THIllO VOYAGE, 1776 — 1780. \ienters were therefore ordered to caulk her, and to repair any- other defects they mi^lit discover. In the course of this day (the 31st of March) the news of their arrival brought vast numbers of the natives about the ships : at one time they counted above a hundred canoes, each of which, on an average, had five people on-board, few containing less than three, many having seven, eight, or nine, and one was manned with seventeen. Many of these were new visitors, which was discovered by their orations and ceremonies when they approached the ships. If they, at first, had apprehended our men meant to be hostile, their fears were now removed ; for they ventured on-board the ships, and mixed with our people with the utmost freedom and familiarity. It was discovered, however, bv this intercourse, that they were as fond of pilfering as any they had met with during the voyage : and they were much more mischievous than any of the other thieves they had found ; for, having shar]) instruments in tlieir possession, they could, the instant that our people's backs were turned, cut a hook from a tackle, or a piece of iron from a rope. Besides other articles, they lost several hooks in this manner, one of which weighed between twenty and thirty pounds. They stripped the boats of every morsel of iron that was worth taking away, though some of our men were always left in them as a guard. They were, indeed, so dexterous in effecting their pur- poses, that one fellow would contrive to amuse our people at one end of the boat, while another was forcing off the iron-work at the other. If an article that had been stolen was immediately missed, the thief was easily detected, as they were fond of im- peaching each other. But the prize was always reluctantly given up by the guilty person; and sometimes compulsive means were obliged to be had recourse to for that purpose. Our ships being safely moored, the men proceeded the next day, to other necessary business : the observatories were taken ashore, and placed upon a rock on one side of the cove, not far from the Resolution, and a party of men was ordered to cut wood, and clear a place for watering. Having plenty of pine- trees here others were employed in bre^ving spruce-beer. The forge was also erected to make the necessary iron-work for re- pairing the fore-mast, which had one of the bibs defective, and was otnerwise incomplete. The ships were daily visited by a considerable number of the natives, and atjiong them they frequently saw new faces. They had a singular mode of introducing themselves on their first appearance ; they paddled with their utmost strength and activity round both the so j)s : a chief, all this t: le, stain«ling up in the canoe with a spear in his hand, and speaking^ or rather bawling, most vociferously. . Sometimes the face of this orator was covered with a mask. i cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. 387 1 representing either a human countenance, or that of some other animal ; and instead ol* a spear, he would hold a kind of rattle in his liand. Having made this ceremonious circuit round the ship, tliev woidd come along-side, and then begin to traflic. Frequently, indeed, they would entertain our men with a song, in which their whole company joined, and produced a very agree- able harmony. During these visits, the principal care was to guard against their thievery. Our men had, however, in the morning of the 4th of April, a very serious alarm. T!ie party, who were employed on shore in cutting wood and filling water, observed, that the natives in all quarters were arming themselves in the best mamier they were able, and tliat those who had not proper weapons were collecting sticks and stones. Hearing this, they thought it necessary to arm also ; but being resolved to act upon tJie de- fensive, the commodore ordered all his workmen to repair to tlie rock, upon which the observatories had been placed, leaving the natives in quiet possession of the ground where they had assembled, which was within about a hundred yards of the Resolution's stern. The danger, however, was only imaginary : for these hostile preparations were not directed against our men, but against a body ol their own countrymen, who were atlvancing to attack them ; and our friends of the Sound perceiving the apprehen- sions, used their best endeavours to convince the men that this was the case. People were looking out on both sides of the cove, and canoes were frequently dispatched between them and the main body. The adverse party, on-board of about a dozen large canoes, at length drew up in a line of battle, off the south point of the cove, a negotiation for the restoration of peace having commenced. In conducting the treaty, several people in canoes passed between the two parties, and some debates en- sued. At length the matter in dispute appeared to be adjusted ; but the strangers were not permitted to approach the ships, nor to have any intercourse or dealings with the crews. Our men were probably the occasion of the quarrel; the strangers, perhaps, insisting on having a right of sharing in the advantages of a trade with them, and their tirst friends resolving to engross them entirely to themselves. There were proofs of this on many other occasions: nay, even among those who lived in the Sound, the weaker were often obliged to submit to the stronger party, and were plundered of every thing, without even attempting to make the least resistance. In the afternoon, the crews resumed their work, and the next day rigged the fore-mast ; the head of which being rather too small for the cap, the carpenter was ordered to fill up the vacant space. In examining the state of the mast-head lor this pur- pose, both cheeks were discovered to be rotten, insomuch that there was no possibihty of repairing them. Our men were Q 15 i J^ — 1 Hi . ' L' %' 338 cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. tlierefore obliged to get the mast out, and to supply it with new ones. Thus, when almost ready for sea, all the work was to be done over again, and an additional repair was necessarv to be under- taken, which would require much time to be completed. It was, however, fortunate, that these defects should be discovered when the ships were so commodiously situated, as to be able to pro. cure the materials that were requisite. For, in the cove where the ships lay, there were some small seasoned trees, perfectly adapted for the purpose ; and two n*iw cheeks were immediately made from one of these. In the morning of the 7 th of April, having got the fore-mast out, they hauled it ashore, and the car- penters were set to work upon it. Some of the lower standing rigging being muck decayed, the commodore embraced the opportunity, while the fore-mast was repairing, of ordering a new set of main-rigging to be fitted^ and the tore-rigging to be improved. From the time of putting into the Sound, till the 7th of April, the weather had been remarkably fine ; but, in the morning ot the 8th, the wind blew fresh at south- east, accompanied with hazy weather and rain; it increased in the afternoon, and in the evening it blew extremely hard. It came in heavy squalls right into the cove, from over the high land on the opposite shore; and, though the ships \ tered on the west-sitt nfu i? "'*** '"any smaller nn«o i "orth-end of the is an/ ,/• ^'»«" the main^fanrf T '"^^ "^"f* landed there : but h ' .^ commodore observ A ^iP^''^^ ^^'^ tants, as by those of ^^ M ""^ «" /^^'^tely recS H ''ir*^^'. ^"^ reception wasoccasmnVd 'h' "'"^^^ »'« had vi^fted"^ VV"''^^':; •su/Ter the commodore ?« ^^ "^ ^u^'y chief wh. ^*"«/«'d ulierever he went-r^ /*? ^"^^"^ their houses h. 7 r.,"^""'^' "ot tienr for himrbe Ze' V^r-^«^'^« S tha [1""^'^^ '»•'" Josoothe him with pi" 'e'us ^f'^.^'^^^ ^"^'"PM le confmued the samrkVnf ^^*'""«^'» '^e did „otVefn,i ♦^^ "' on, Caifain Pn^l^ ^" agreeable son^ pf! -^ Welcome to the '- A mSl^TT!^ '" '"P''^ "•»( 'l-irteen canoe" ■^h' ° "'"'='^' ««« -extmorlin "^"-S"' "'«'«"T .^^ '^"f » "''.or. time, another vi" * ± {. '"^ """.'^ »f '"» "oCZL "T''^ '■»?<»- r-odorf ,„*?£?" „S°'>"d "« the appellation given bv tb. '"formed that tuJ I " "'^ first arrival • h.,* k ^y the com- ^ ^*; ■ 'fl^B jLj^l ' ■.'T'iH i .; I :.' HI ,;I1 jr: f i'M'! 3' 'fl 2^4 COOK'S tHlRB VOYAGE, l;76-ir80 Wands and rocks above water Ti o Anumber ofiQln«^ i- . "> *»^ ieast io„r anchored i« nJli ^^. ""merous. Thp n... • '"^ narbours their tops wiU the fhji'"'.^''^ '^'A and otS ""J^"' «» *^e,> seen nn^i, -J ^. thickest woods «J ""Jers are co verpW tr. these hilL^Tllvr""''- ''!""' ""e general ^T "?' ""merou/ I'as beerproduc/d te* '"'^f*'' ■'« S" upon tti^'P^^'""" « about two feet te? ''''^'«'; ""^es an5Ze,^K?"^J" "hat stupendous rocks »h- '?""dations are indeed ,f';L°'^*« <'^Ptl> of «o our. ThJ ^„„i, V ''"' "hen broken .» ? '''''' "hen ex. beaches of tL S c^„'*'"T''"' ^1^0?' .t"""''' g«y »en,s.„f i, ""'« -oves ,„ the Sound Je ZLp^;. «^thl During their stay the v ..k ^ '^«'- fetei/rte^^^^^ «ith that •nore to the sonthl.^ ""i "»" between nortl . V"^ ''»'' fine, appears to'beTnfiSy IrS.''''''^- "'''' tin Th"' ^" '^ America, nnder fh.l.^ niilder than that n„ .i, '"e ciimate trostinanyof tl^'',„T«P»™"eloflaS.''"-;,h,'' *''' "»«« of proceeded my brisk : ^.'""'iu^ ' '»"' "n the eon^.^^ P"'"'^'"'^^'' "» 1" general!' j;- ^^ ^'"^'•''aTai: * re^l.^''^''^^'"'^''"' large size. At fh^. *i " """■« "■'«' sreaf fif ""*" ">« ofier. ^ gooseberry bushes, all red befween ni-west from Wens within »t least four COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE, 1776-1780 in a flourishing state 'n,o 345 a species of sow.thJti^ ^^'"^ ^^so a few hla/ome have no beards at uU j . upon the point of the chin %-^"? ***''^''s only a small th: m,«tachoe3, nm„i„g7rom S.e u"^!*"?- •=•■". •>"* ako wSe™""" doivnward. » Their evVhr^f. PP*' '.'P «» ""e lower iaw ihi* ' f ' •hej; have abundance of ha™ o'n T t'^.'^-ty "ndCrow -T'^ slraight, and lanL Til ' ". "'* head, which » „, ^ '. "'"*. even among those who werjfn fh^'" ^ '!"§^'« ""« to be fo ' 5' ''''&c'^™'^„^n'rLrr ^^^^^^^ """" "'■° "^' •" ' ^- 'le tight shoulde?riea«vZh"''" "'« 1^" »4*itfs tledT' "le raant e is fasfe3 ^ "T »™s periectlv free 5 "*° .""er raattine 0».. .1 • • '"'""I 'he waist hv . • j, '"""etimes reaching to thj kn" " "1'" » ^"'a" cloak of^h^ ff"' "[ «»««e «ap. like a^itcat'ed c„*''" '""«"' »' ti,e b„tm "I.,'"""*""**. 'f«ek:-i:;;^„7nw„Tt" ^°""<' ''"«b,C'ar„th''on'^,.*"* ate d J '"^ * - pttrs -ar, over theirTth*eV,rrt,%tte?' ""'' "'<' ™» often m II 360 COOK'S TBIHD VOYAGE, I776-Ir8». coarse mat about their shm.l^r-' '^"^^ * '^^o^k. Thev throw^ F Iheir dress is ciTtei,.!, • ^ ""■<""> of fhe hear) would not be inelegai '?^ bntZ"T- ""''' ""« " kept clean fheir bodies over witfa Urf "ii . -^^ J"^ """tinoally n,bbi„„' become (rreasv nnli . •"'"'' ""«d with oil (h.;?lr "^ appearanfeSed „f T*™"' " ,""<=■''' offensive S™tI!' Their bof' es, it has h^.„ k "® fi^^ieatest composure '•ef paint, but' t eir faces a.'. '''^' ''' always covered with colours, a black, a bright re/'"'"'"t5^ ^^^L Tvarfetv if these gives them a ffhaX h ?*, "'' ^ ^^'^ colour- the ll»f 1 the outer edge fn fhit^ ^i!'1 ^^° «»na»er ones hiihb '''^^'^ fastened upon a ]Lu ^**^^« are iiung bi?a nf F^*^ "^ .«" thin pieces of copper Hn" ^^""^' shells, b^.„ches of ?f^ ?'""« perforated, and a „YerP nf '""""A ^^^ *^i^^«^ of the „n.f ' *'^°' vtear leathern thona.Jn'^ A '^^'""^ *^eir ankles thev ?' ^^^'h Siirh n-rVi" . ""^^'^ or the smews nfnr.;^ i . ^> 'requent v som^ *if f ^^"^'^ common dresses Li ""^^^ curiously twisted some that are iK^ii «^i "messes and ornamentq h.,* *i "^^•'^^a. going to war «.T Pr-'y.on extraordinary op.!' • ^^'^^ '*«^e monial visTts ' A ^^^"^iting themselves 7n T^''«n«^ such as ^hitefeatlLri A iL'"*'5 o**^ it is entirell rn '/'''':^'^"'«'''v the upper and loi *^^ '^'"^ *'»*e, the Ss v?' ,^'^*^ ^'"^'^ PS tying throw a ey have enerally ^e not a t clean, rubbing innents I. The i filthy, ire they pick off •ed with ■iety of J last of ikewise ses it to , where up on ', quills sels, or is also wear, some- feptum, lus the luttons Their Ihes of Iblack, pently "isted. have Ich as I cere- lears. ; !.'«;■ p;; f y i (1: . ■!.' ,. 1 •■ , i^^^H^ * i S .:! ! I I % I cook's third voyage, 1776—1780. 351 The hair sometimes is separated into small parcels, and tied, at intervals, with thread; and others tie it together behind, after the English manner, and stick in it some branches of the ci/pressus thyoides. Thus equipped, they have a truly savage, and ridicu- lous appearance, which is much heightened, when they assume their monstrous decorations. These consist of a great variety of wooden masks, applied to the face, forehead, or upper part of the head. Some oi these visors, resemble human faces, having hair, beards, and eye-brows ; others represent the heads of birds, and many the heads of animals, such as deer, wolves, porpoises, and others. These representations, generally exceed the natural size, and tliey are frequently strewed with pieces of the foliaceous mica. which makes them glitter, and augments their deformity. Some- times they even exceed this, and lix large pieces of carved work upon the head, projecting to a considerable distance, and resem- bling the prow of a canoe. So much do they dehght in these disguises, that, for want of another mask, our voyagers saw one of them, thrust his I sad into a tin-kettle, which he had got from them. Whether these extravagant masquerade ornaments are used on any religious occasion, or in any kind of diversion ; or, whe- ther they are calculated to intimidate by their monstrous appear- ance, or as decoys when hunting animals, is uncertain ; but, if travellers, in an ignorant and credulous age, when unnatural and marvellous things w'ere supposed to exist, had seen several people decorated in this manner, and had not approached so near them as to be undeceived, they would have believed, and endea- voured to make others believe, that a race of beings existed par taking of the nature of man and beast. Among the people of Nootka, one of the dresses seems pecu- liarly adapted to war. It is a thick, tanned, leathern mantle, doubled, and appears to be the skin of an elk« or buffalo. This is fastened on in the ordinary manner, and is so contrived, as to cover the breast quite up to the throat, part of it, at the same time, falling down to their heels. This garment is sometimes very curiously painted, and is not only strong enough to resist arrows, but, as our voyagers understood from them, even spears cannot pierce it ; so that it may be considered, ivs their completest defensive armour. Sometimes they wear a soi t of leathern cloak, over which are rows of the hoofs of deer, placed horizontally, and covered with quills, which, on their moving, make a loud, rattling noise. Whether this part of their garb is intended to strike terror in war, or to be used on ceremonious occasions, is uncertam ; but, they saw one of their musical entertainments, which was conducted by a man habited in this manner, having a j mask on, and shaking his rattle. Though these people cannot be viewed without a kind of hor- Iror, when they are thus strangely apparalled, yet when divested If; ' ■ ■; i 862 COOK*S THIRD VOYAGE, 1776—1780. 'I ■ y ' H'l. of these extravagant dresses, and beheld in their common habit, they have not tne least appearance of ferocity in their counte- nances; but, on the contrary, thev seem to be of a quiet phleg. matic disposition, delicient in animation and vivacity to render themselves agreeable in society. They are rather reserved than loquacious ; but, their gravity seems constitutional, and not to arise from a conviction of its propriety, or to be the result of any particular mode of education ; for, in the greatest paroxysms of rage, they have not heat of language, or signiticancy of gestures, to express it sufficiently. The orations which they make on all public occasions are little more than short sentences, and sometimes only single words, forcibly repeated in one tone of voice, accompanied with a single gesture at every sentence ; at the same time, Jerking their whole body a little forward, b^^ bending their knees, and their arms hanging down by their sides. From exhibiting human skulls and bones to sale, there is rea- son to infer that they treat their enemies with a degree of brutal cruelty: but this circumstance rather marks a general agreement of character with that of almost every uncivilized tribe, in every age and country, than that they are to be reproached with any charge of peculiar inhumanity. Their disposition in this respect, they had not any reason to judge unfavourably of. They appear to be docile, courteous, and good-natured ; but, they are quick in resenting injuries, notwithstanding the predominancy of their phlegm ; and, hke all other passionate people, as soon forgetting them. These fits of passion never extended farther than the parties immediately concerned ; the spectators never entering into the merits of the quarrel, whether it was with any of our men, or among their own people; showing as much indifference as if they were wholly unacquainted with the whole transaction. Jt was common to see one of them rave and scold, while all his agitation did not in the least excite the attention of his country- men, and when none of our people could trace the object of his displeasure. They never betray the least symptoms of timidity upon these occasions, but seem resolutely determined to punisn the insult. For, even with respect to our people, they were under no apprehensions about iheir superiority ; but when any difference arose, were as ready to avenge the wrong, as if the quarrel had been among themselves.^ Their other passions appear to lie dormant, especially their curiosity. Few expressed any desire or inclination to see or examine things with which they were unacquainted ; and which, to a curious observer, would have appeared astonishing. If they could procure the articles they knew and wanted, they were perfectly satisfied ; regarding every thing else, v th great indif- ference. Nor did the persons, dress, and benaviour of our men (though so very difl'erent from their own) or even the size cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. 863 and construction of our ships, seem to excite their admiration or attention. Their indolence may, indeed, be a principal cause of this; but it must be admitted, that they are not vthoUy unsusceptible of the tender passions, which is eviJent from their being fond of music, and that too of the truly pathetic kind. Their songs are generally slow and solemn : but (heir music is less confined than that which is usually found in other rude nations ; the variations being very numerous and expressive, and the melody powerfully soothing. Besides their concerts, sonnets were frequently sung by single performers, who kept time by striking the hand against the thi^'h. Though solemnity was predominant in their music, tiiey sometimes entertained our people in a gay and lively strain, and even with a degree of pleasantry and humour. A rattle and a small whistle were the only instruments of music \vlii( h our voyagers saw amongst them ; the rattle is used when tliey sing ; but upon what occasions the whistle is used is not known, unless it be when they dress themselves like particular animals, and endeavour to imitate their howl or cry. Our men once saw one of these people dressed in the skin ol a wolf, with tlie head covering his own, striving to imitate that animal, by making a squeaking noise with a whistle he had in his mouth. The rattles are generally in the shape of a bird, with small peb- bles in the belly, and the tail is the handle ; they have another sort, which resembles a child's rattle. Some of them displayed a disposition to knavery, and, in tratHcking took away the goods without making any return. But of this there were few instances ; and there was abundant reason to approve the fairness of their conduct. Their eagerness, how- ever, to possess iron, brass, or any kind of metal, was so great, that, when an opportunity presented itself, few of them could re- sist the temptation to steal it. The natives of the South Sea Islands, as it appears in many instances, would steal any thing (hey could find, without considering whether it was useful to tiieni or not. The novelty of the object was a sufficient induce- ment for them to get possession of it by any means. Thej' were rather actuated by a childish curiosity, than by a thievish dispo- sition. The inhabitants of Nootka, who made free with the property, are entitled to no such apology. The appellation of thief is certainly due to them ; for they knew that what they pilfered might be converted to the purposes of private utihty ; and, according to their estimation of things, was really valuable. Luckily they set no value upon any of the articles except the metals. Linens, and many other things, were secure from their depredations; and our men could safely leave them hanging out all night ashore, without being watched. The principle which prompted those people to pilfer would probably operate in their intercourse with each other; and there was, indeed, Abundant reason to believe that stealing is very common amongst 854 cook's third voyage, 1776—1780. ■(■ m !' ! ?• ^i iy \ them, and frequently produces quarrels uf which our people saw more instances than one. The only inhabited part of the Sound seemed to be the t«vo villages already nientioned. A pretty exact computation of the number of inhabitants of both might be made from the canoes that visited the ships the second day after their arrival. They consisted of about a hundred, which, upon an average, contained at least five persons each. But, as there were very few women, children, or youths among them, it may reasonably be supposed that the number of inhabitants of the two villages could not he less than four times the number of the visitors ; being two thou- sand in the whole. 'J'he village, which is situated at the entrance of the Sound, stands on the side of a pretty steep ascent, extending from the beach to the wood. The houses consist of three ranges or rows, placed at almost equal distances behind each other, the front row being the largest ; and there are few straggling houses at each end. These rows are intersected by narrow pattis or lanes, at irregular distances, passing upward ; but those between the houses are considerably broader. Though this general disposition has some appearance of regularitv there is none in the respective houses ; for, every division made by the paths, may either be considered as one or more houses ; there being no regular sepa* ration to distinguish them by, either within or without. — These erections consist of very long, broad planks, resting upon the edges of each other, tied in different parts, with withes of pine* bark. They have only slender posts on the outside, at consider- able distances from each other, to which they are also fastened; but there are some larger poles within placed aslant. The sides and ends of these habitations are about seven or eight feet in height, but the back part is somewhat higher. The planks, therefore, which compose the roof, slant forward, and being loose, may be moved at pleasure. They may either be put close to exclude the rain, or separated to admit the light in fair weather. Upon the whole, however, they are most miserable dwellings and display very little attention or ingenuity in their construction, for, though the side planks are pretty close to each other in some places, they are quite open in others. Besides, these habitations have no regular doors, and can only be entered by a hole which the unequal length of the planks has accidentally made. In the sides of the houses they have also holes to look out at, serving for windows ; but Miese are very irregularly disposed, without at- tending, in the least, to the shape or size of them. Within these habitations our men had frequently a view from one end to the other of these ranges of building ; for, though there are some appearances of separations on each side, for the accommodation ot different persons or families, they do not inter- cept the sight, and generally consist of pieces of plank, extended from the side to the middle of the house. On tnc sides of each i oft thef audi cook's third voyage, 1776—1780. 3S% J or rows, (tf these parts is a little jench, about Ave or six mches higher than the rest of the floor, covered with mats, whereon the family sit and sleep. The length of these benches is c^enerallv seven or eight feet, and the breadth four or five. The fire-place, which has neither hearth nor chimney, is in the middle of the floor. One house, in particular, was nearly separated from the rest by 'a close partition ; and this was the most ret;ular building of any that our people had seen. In it there were four of these benches, each holding a single family at a corner ; but it had not any sepa* ration by boards, and the middle of the house seemed to be common to all the inhabitants. The furniture of their houses consists principally of chests, and boxes of various sizes, piled upon each other at the sides or ends of the house; in which are deposited their garments, skins, masks, and other articles that are deemed valuable. Many of these are double, or the upper one serves as a lid to the other; some have a lid fastened with thongs, others, that are very large, have a square hole cut in the upper part, for the convenience of putting things in or taking them out. They are frcouentiy painted black, studded with the teeth of animals, or rudely carved with figures of birds, &c. as decorations. They have also square and oblong pails, round wooden cups and bowls, wooden troughs, of about two feet in length, out of which they eat their food, and bags of matting, baskets of twigs, &rC. Their fishing implements, and other things, are hung up, or scattered in different parts of the house, without any kind of order, so that the whole is a complete scene of confusion, except on the sleeping benches, which have nothing on them but the mats, which are of a finer quahty than those that they usually have to sit on in their boats. The irregularity and confusion of their houses were, however, far exceeded by their nastiness and stench. They not only dry their fish within doors, but they also gut them there, which, toge- ther with their bones and fragments thrown upon the ground at meals, occasion several heaps of filth, which are never removed till they becomes troublesome, from their bulk, to pass over them. Every thing about their houses stinks of train-oil, fish, and smoke ; in a word, their houses are as filthy is hog-stys. But amidst all this filth and confusion, many of their houses are decorated with images ; which are nothing more than the trunks of large trees, of the height of four or five feet, pk»ced at the upper end of the apartment, with a human face carved on the front, and the hands and arms upon the sides. These figures too are variously painted, and make, upon the whole, a most ridicu- lous appearance. These images are generally called Klumma ; but the names of two particular ones, standing abreast of each other, at the distance of about three or four feet, were Natehkoa and Matseeta. A sort of curtain, made of mat, usually hung before thera^ which the natives were sometimes unwilling to ! .1 II 356 cook's third VOYAOt, 1776—1780. remove ; and when they did consent to unveil them, they seemed to express themselves in a very mysterious manner. It seem» probable that they sometimes make oiferings to them ; for, if our people rightly interpreted their signs, they requested them to give something to these images, when they drew the mats from before them. From these circumstances it was natural to suppose that they' were representatives of their gods, or some superstitious symbols : and yet they were held in no very extraordinary degree of esti- mation, for, with a small quantity of brass or iron, any person might have purchased all the gods in the place. Mr. Webber, in drawing a view cf the inside of a No(»tlca house, wherein these figures are represer.ted, was interrupted and hindered from proceeding by one of the inhabitants, who held a mat before the figure. Thinking a bribe would have a proper effect upon this occasion, Mr. Webber made him an offer of a button from his .:oat, which, being metal, immediately ope- rated as it was intended, and he was left at liberty to proceed as before. But soon after he had made a beginning, he was again interrupted by the same man, who returned and renewed his former practice, till Mr. Webber had parted with every single button ; and, when he saw that he had completely stripped him, permitted him to proceed without any farther obstruction. The men jeemed to be chiefly employed in fishing, and killing animals for the sustenance of their families ; few of them being seen engaged in any business in the houses ; but the women, were occupied in manufacturing their garments, and in curing the sardines, which they also carry from the canoes to their houses. The women also go in the small canoes, to gather muscles and other shell-fish. They are as dexterous as the men in the manage- ment of their canoes ; and, when there are men in the canoes with them, they are paid very little attention to on account of their sex, none of the men ottering to relieve them from the labour of the paddle. Nor do they show them any particular respect, or tenaerness on other occasions. The young men are remarkably indolent ; being generally sitting about in scattered companies, basking themselves in the sun, or wallowing in the satid upon the beach like so many hogs, without any kind of covering. This disregard of decency was, however, confined solely to the men. The women were always decentlv clothed, and behaved with great propriety ; justly me- riting all commendation for a modest bashfidness, so becoming in their sex. In them it is the more meritorious, as the men have not even a sense of shame. Besides seeing something of their domestic life and employ- ments, our voyagers were enaoled to form some judgment ot their disposition and method of living, from the frequent visits received from them at their ships, in the canoes , in which it was understood they pass much of their time, especially in the sum* f mer; for theynotonlvno* j , 357 and bask themselves in 1 ^"^ ®'^^P freqiienflv m fi. ^reat plenty u^on t| e ?o?L ' ^"!1^ «««-^rasVwhicr^^^ P>- served in bisketTnr I^^f ""^^^r ivater Th;ll • '^V"^ m people as a kind of ^J"" ^'^^^'^^^^^e taste an j/ ^^'"^^ ^.p. other Jarffe fish H^^f T ^^^ ^'"^^d- They alsoUf .u ^^'''^^ ^'^^se ab,.ndance^:f";",S are'fn'T-*'^' «S of h? r>o ^ ti'em in their she sfhZ'f """"^ "' ^^^ Sonnd Aft '''''^' ^^''^a* «nd taken off as £i^^ ^'^ "^"^'k upon Jo ^ wn^**"' f^^^^'n^ '-^l^erpreptaTionTho'ulhTh"'^^ *^ ^^ eat^^faX^^V^'^^^' «f"ce. The smaller shelUu^^'*^ ^>metimes i-S?n^"'P "^ '^fock, but cannnf kl ^"^":nsh, contribute to in^^ "^^ .'" ®'^ as a Tl.e po po^sHs mn ^^"«'d«^r«d as a material arfM 'V¥ ^^"eral pieces, dry them «« lu "^^' .^nd rind of whirF. ♦», ^ *"^" a"y "- P epaUb^ X'^ tv*"/"!"*'' ""d eat t&^W.!" J"/^' occasions, mixed wifh ole ",^ ^"'"^ ^'"^^ ^^ey usp un^n ""^^'^ alone, w th a kinW «7 ^'^ '^^^^ as sauce anY f P®" '"any They Prob\'^4fd ^,^,V1^ ^^■^-" '"'""^ "^ ^^ ^eals, and sea-otters fhfi- ''^''^^ sea-animals s„p1, amongst them -and' i '^"'^ "* ^he two latter hi- ^' ''^^H wLsforthe^esfrnoV^^^.^''*^ ^"'•"'shed wi?h iA. f'"^ common "•ay not be able at'l'fj^' «^ ^^^ese animals,7l ouLftT"'^ "^.«" '" ^U Sound. ''-'^ ^k'"s were to be seen whfle they 1^' II m\ 858 cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. 'll^:| .I'l' -..■'i The land-animals, at this time, appeared also to be scarce, as our men saw no flesh belonging to any of them; and though their skins were to be had in plenty, they might, perhaps, have been procured by traffic from other tribes. It plainly appears, therefore, from a varietj^ of circumstances, that thejse people are furnished with the principal part of their animal food by the sea, if we except a few gulls and some other birds, which they shoot with their arrows. Their only winter vegetables seem to be the Canadian pine- branches and sea-grass ; but, as the spring advances, they use others as they come in season. The most common of these were two sorts of liliaceous roots, of a mild, sweetish taste, whidi are mucilaginous and eaten raw. The next is a root called aheita, and has a taste resembling liquorice. Another small^ sweetish root, about the thickness of a sarsaparillay is also eaten raw, As the season advances they have doubtless many others which they did not see. For, though there is not the least appearance of cultivation among them, there are plenty of alder, gooseberry, and currant bushes. One of the conditions, however, which the;^' seem to require in all food, is, that it should be of the less acrid kind ; for they would not touch the leek or garlic, though they sold our men vast quantities of it, when they understood they liked it. They seemed, indeed, not to relish any of their food, and rejected their spirituous liquors as something disgust- ing and unnatural. Small marine animals, in their fresh state, are sometimes eaten raw ; though it is their ordinary practice te roast or broil their food ; for they are absolute strangers to our method of boiling, as appears from their manner of preparing porpoise-broth; besides, aa they have only wooden vessels, it is impossible for them to perform such an operation. Their manner of eating corresponds with the nastiness of their houses and persons ; for the platters and troughs, out of which they eat their food, seem never to have been washed since their original formation ; the dirty remains of a former meal bemg only swept away by the succeeding one. Every thing solid and tough they tear to pieces with their hands and teeth ; for though their knives are em^ployed in cutting off the larger portions, they hav lot yet endeavoured to reduce these to mouthfuls by the same means, though so much more cleanly and convenient. But they seem to ha?ve no klec of cleanliness, for they eat the roots which are dug irom the ground, without so much as shaking- otf the soil that adheres to them. Whether they have any set times for meals is not certainly known, for they eat at all hours in their canoes ; but as several messes of porpoise-broth were preparing about noon, when oui men visited tlie village, they probably make a principal meal about that time. They have bows and arrows, spears, slings, short truncheons 80. to be scarce, ag »em; and though It, perhaps, have Plainjy appears, : the^e people are lood by the sea, which they shoot ! Canadian pint. vances, they use )mmon of these ttish taste, whicJi •ot called aheita, small, sweetish also eaten ra« ny others which east appearance Jer, gooseberry, lowever, which d be of the less r garlic, though hey understood sh any of their lething disgust- COOK'S ra«B ,„y^^^^ j^^^ )metimes eaten it or broil their »od of boiling, orpoise- broth; impossible for nner of eating 1 .persons; for eir food, seem ormation; the t away by the tear to pieces are envploj ed endeavoured >"gh so much We no idee "«g irom the that adheres "ade of bone, and a .„al. Z. "''-"">• and the other fixed in? ^^'' «"« ^nd termin^hr '?«"^ «^ the tended to resemble th"^ ^'''''^''" »^«ndle Th"^.'".? P«'"t, stone beinff fivin ; ?u ^^^^ ^nd neck of ^ k '^ ^^"^le is in- Y-tmag„ft..d:^' To t "hr^^^ - t^/rLeSL'f""^ ^'"^ also txed to it Ti.' "'"8'"«>i the reaemhU^ f * '""giie of ""Other weapon r^l T,""" " «"ed SI'm'.' •"•"•?"''•"•■ ^^ or tnelve inches "„„ h •°"'' "'""='' Aev call,i *?.^ "^ l'«ve in close combat f^^ J concluded that ih^^ e •iie little'^ pZgriTlu^ ^1'"''^ deposition of 1 '*"''''^!'' '""'e , .-."d >voollen Sent^/ """^ ■»»"'« '" c iv" zatii^ P-J?P'<'- and ."»e, bent , "! dis- "."d/irm as cS hat?,"""' ''^ '•>« "etl-orbeZV"']'' P'^'^d ''r. and is hkeiv^s, '1?? "'"''''»< '* « »u/ficientlv J?"''*''''.'' »o close . mough tLTw„™e'n''"''"'»'«P''aWr '^''"P""»''»*»el.e "'0 • ZTCT'' "'"^ hT^'lMhra""""^ "".nnfactured ■iwtroved bv It, 'PP"-'"""" »f th™r bei .t "PP""™"'* of ,vom, ""I'em, if fe, i" •"•"?"« %"res that afeT"^-' '^ » '»<""*" sMe to nrnJ^ ^ '^"■y ""probable that ,u '"Semoasly inserted farhanSs Tif ""^'' « ^mi^eiVork ev^ f-^P'* should bo ,'Wsest sort o^' J "'.^ "* 'different Silief 2 """'d^tely by «»™« sorts! an°i cert''-?V""' "">"' no7C.T ''T'?'''''* ""^ Ihe W''^?^^ ;'i^ both warmer^ndS er "'^'"" '" ""' ,^»' 'rfe-1^^^^^^^^^ to be talcen h---^"'^.rdred'S^^^^^^^ ^ ia 360 cook's third voyage, 1776—1780. ♦he latter of which, when new, equals in brightness, the best in our carpets. Their fontlness for carving on all their wooden articles, cor- responds with their taste in working figures upon their garments. Nothing is to be seen without a kind of freeze-work, or a repre- sentation of some animal upon it ; but the most general figure is that of the human face, which is frequently cut out upon birds, and the other monstrous thingj already mentioned, and even upon their weapons of bone and stone. The general design of these figures conveys a sufficient knon- ledge of the objects they are intended to represent, and although, in the carving, very little dexterity is displayed; yet, in the exe- cution of many of the masks ard heads, they have shown tiiem- selves ingenious sculptors. They preserve, with the great.^st exactness, the general character ot their own faces, and tinisii the more minute parts with great accuracy and neatness. That these people have a strong propensity to works of this sort, is ob- servable in a variety of particulars. Representations of hunian figures, birds, beasts, fishes, models of their canoes, and house- hold utensils, were found among them in very great abundance. Having mentioned their skill in some of the imitative arts, such as working figures in their garments, and engraving or carving them in wood, we may also add their drawing them in colours. The whole process of their whale fishery has been represented, in this manner, on the caps they wear. This indeed was rudely executed, but served at least to convince them, that though they have not the knowledge of letters amongst them, they have a notion of representing actions, in a lasting way, exclusive of recording them in their songs and traditions, They have also other painted figures, which, perhaps, have no established significations, and are only the creation of fanc}' or caprice. Though the structure of their canoes is simple, they appear | well-calculated for every useful purpose. The largest, which carry upwards of twenty people, are formed of a single tree, The length of many of them is forty feet, the breadth seven, and the depth three. They become gradually narrower from the middle towards each end, the stern ending perpendicularly, with a knob at the top. The fore part stretches forwards and up- wards, and ends in a point or prow, much higher than the sides | of the canoe, which are nearly straight. For the most part the) are without any ornament; but some have a little carving, and I are studded with seals' teeth on the surface. A few have also a kind of additional prow, usually painted with the figure of some animal. They have neither scats nor any other supporters on the inside, except some small, round sticks, about half the depth of the canoe. They are very light, and, on account of their breadth and flatness, swim firmly without an out-rigger, of which they arc all destitu>te. Their paddles, which are small and light J 80. ness, the best in den articles, cor- 1 their garments. I'ork, or a repre- general figure is out upon birds, oned, and even sufficient knon. it, and although^ yet, in the exe' ve shown tliem. th the greatest *, and finis!) the !S3. Thattiiese lis sort, is ob. tions of human •es, and hoiise- at abundance, imitative arts, I engraving or -awing them in ler^ has been . This indeed )nvince them, itters amongst s, in a lasting md traditions, haps, have no )n of isLUcy or they appear irgest, wliich I single tree. th seven, and ^er from the icularly, uitli irds and np- han the sides lost part tlie,\ carving, and v have also a COOK S THIRD VOYAGE Ir,^ resemble a large leaf in u ^^^^-irso. broad in the middle '^^''*P^ "^eingpoin*^^ . .i. ^haft, the whoTe leng^^^^^^^ *^e bottom, thev have acquired frLh'"^.*^«"^ five S"«^i^^^^^ '*" the , paddles, but thevn£^^,^*®"ty in the m» ^ constant use For fishing S h^tinTt'^'-^^^^^y^Su^^^ ^i' these ! contrived, and wel -mtle '^'^'"'P^^'^eniZe both .n • hues, harpoons, ei J o J ^^y consist of «?? "/"fi^^^^ously The latte4 abouf f^^n^?! ^» .instrument resemb,>««^«> «"^ breadth, and of the JK^^®*'* *» length fo,.? ^"S^ »« oar about tvVthi?dsoftfe %^ T^''^^ about two inches lol^^'lfh^r set with sha J 1 ^^«^^«' ^^^ With th s instrum^n/^/u ^^^ ^^^er third sPrS^ ^^ ^^^^ ^eth such other fish as^2' they attack herrinf! ^"f ^«*- ^ handle' and the fish are Takr^i!? '^«^'«- It fs sfrll""*- '^'^^^^^. and hooks, whicfare mad." r K "^^^ ^' betwee ' ,K "t" *?« «»»oS, nuity; but theTarpoor w'h"^' ?"^ ^«o^^^^^^^^^^ 'Thci^ other sea-animals mo\^h'*'b 's used in ^fSl^^ "® ^^^^^ inge- consists of a SecPnTK"'^^'^ « ffreat exten/ r '"^ ^^^les, and oval blade of a1aL/^^"'i ^«"»ed into two h^ K^^^^^^an^e. It -nt is fixed. 'fe^Xttf^ -2 'be P&fV'^^^ ^^« harpoon, and in th^r. -^^ rathoms of rnn« « r ' '"e instni- feet long, to whVh 'r^"§^ it, they use aTh»T C^'*f "^^ to tffs the harpoo^ Ts fed /^^' '^ ^^tened, to on/ ^^^"t fifteen buoy upon the water 1^ *? *«*»ve The , haft fl"1-^^ ^^^^b -^a :^;e';~ ^^^^^^^^^^^^^ quently threw thern^^^.^PP"e^ to that nnn^ ^'^^''^^ ««rts of % offered them for *^"^'" ^^^^s, to 15^^ ^' ^^^y ^e- b) disguising ZlXttu f T^time^St tcor« ^^? all-iours. whiph ih^ '^y^^s with a skin anH « "^ ."ecoy animals akind of "ot o^^^eilr."^ "i7"''^""'S?ng Sffi ""'"" ^on »ell a« the dried head! of Hiff ^'"^ ""^k". ot carvlVrV™'' '™"'''yr''-^-'Ke"Sfc 1 ^^ i I'll fl^iiHif 1:; B8 ^: [;i % I Ji ' *:•! '^■: 3«3 cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780, was not made of that metal, and that was of bone. The knife and the chisel are the principal forms that iron assumes amongst them. The chisel consists of a flat, long piece fastened into a wooden handle. A stone is their mallet, and a bit of fish-skin their polisher. Some of these chisels were nine or ten inches in length, and three or four in breadth, but they were, in general, considerably smaller. Some of their knives are very large, and their blades crooked, the edge being on the back or convex part. Most of them that Captain Cook saw were about the breadth and thickness of an iron hoop : and their singular form sufficiently proves that they are not of European make. Their iron tools are sharpened upon a coarse, slate whet-stone, and the whole instrument is kept continually bright. Iron is called by the natives seekemaile, a name which they also give to tin, and other white metals. — It being so common among these people, our men were anxious to discover hoiv it was conveyed to them. As soon as they arrived in the Sound, they perceived that they had a knowledge of traffic, and an in- clination to pursue it ; and our people were afterwards convinced that the^ had not acquired this knowledge from a cursory inter- view with any strangers, but it seemed habitual to them, and was a practice in which they were well skilled. With whom they carry on tliis traffic. Captain Cook could not ajscertain ; for though he saw several articles of European manu- facture, or such at least as had been derived fron^ some civilized nation, such as brass and iron, it does not certainly follow that they received them immediately from these nations. Captain Cook never could obtain the least information of their having seen ships like ours before, nor of their having been engaged in commerce with such people. Many circumstances corroborate to prove this beyond a doubt; on the arrival of the ships, the natives were earnest in their inquiries whether our people meant to settle among them, and whether they were friendly visitors, informing them, at the same time, that they freely gave them wood and water from motives of friendship. This not only proves that they considered themselves as pro- prietors of the place, and dreaded no superioritv ; but it would have been an unnatural inquiry, if any ships had been here be- fore, and had supplied themselves with wood and water, and then departed for they mightthen reasonably expect that ourmen should do the same. It niust be admitted, indeed, that they exhibited no marks of surprise at beholding the ships : but this may, with great propriety, be attributed to their natural indolence of temper, and their wanting a thirst of curiosity. Nor were they even startled at the report of a musket, till they one day shewed that their hide dresses were impenetrable to tneir spears and arrows, when one of the gentlemen shot a musket-ball through one of ll\em that had been six times folded. Their astonishment at this ^wijt 1780, fbone. The knife 1 assumes amongst ce fastened intj, I a bit of fish-skin le or ten inches in ^ were, in general^ ir blades crooked lost of them thai I thickness of an ' proves that thev e sharpened upon istrument is kept lame which they eing so common discover how it ed in the Sound, raflic, and an in. wards convinced I a cursory inter. •1 to them, and Cook could not European manu- a some civilized inly follow that ions. Captain ol their having sen engaged in jes corroborate the ships, the r people meant lendly visitors, ave them wood :r :""'" --- -- -so 1 • I • J. VOYAGE, 1776 I7«n plainly indicated their i-o.« . ^® 363 , Ivas afterwards vervJr«^""'^"ce of the effect nf fi them to shoot Wrds^a[ IK* J: '''''^'^^tXn^^^^^ "^^i^ -The explanation of the ^",^. ^^^^ «PPeared greatlv iT" T^ its operaUon, with thp i;^ ''r^^^' together SYu*'®"^^"nded. forcibly, as to convince cl?^- ^'S '^^^ and bTl «J^ L"^*"'^ «<* ^ideas on this matlT*' ^'''^"» ^««k ^^ ^^^eir h1^(i^^^^^^^^ so , Though some accounf «r ^'"S^ no previous these sl,i„» had nTverTen-'^; M"""^»«d »»fe^^^ '""" 'V iron wouU not WKiL " *' Nooffca.* I. „Z^{'"y IJ^ve fhat it have been so wfiff" '" «'. »«"? hands 21 »^° i!."^*"' ««' U kno-vledge-ont ' '^'"™' '^ ""ey hadaiTaLrfenh"' I From their general u«.p «r *u- oniamed the some constant aonro^ ; ?. '*"^ metal, it nrnKoki ,liaps,beenlo„gTipn1ied^ Imucli dexteritv as *VJ I "^^^ '^^ ^r they usp hS !^ ?^^«- Per- Ihe making of braa« »{.„ l ™* American trihJI . ■ '»» Ma- Mi from Its duS „^^^f »PP" has Sen freo,.!'*.i'«f"'«»»' "f indpolished If ShTf*"? """y be fesh iS?„, ''^ '"*'.'^''', iittbons Bay and r *f^*' «» «'ere not used iT ^u° ""^ '^ape,^ «»»thaveKf„15?"»^>"n *«•• tn^c wl X** traders to erobable, the tw^Z"^ f N»otfca fr?m IgJ^^* P«t'ves, they ,. Of the pilitica^^fc .table-spoons tt/« Wledlfc^ fen. except the&XaT '""S^' '"'o L-'"»^«...™ . *^ ^P"*** "f'heni, he c B].<-l IS 'I li.^^ 304 I ii > . I COOK*S THIRD VOYAGE^ 1776 — 1780, might suppose them to b« images of some of their ancestors, whose memories they venerate. This, however, is all conjecture, for our men could receive no information concerning them, knowing little more of their language than to enable them to ask | the names of things, without being able to hold any conversation with the natives relative to their traditions or institutions. Tlieir language is neither harsh nor disagreeable, farther than proceeds from their pronouncing the k and /* with less softness than we do. As to the composition of their language we are | enabled to say but little. It may, however, be inferred, from their slow and distinct method of speaking, that it has few prepo sitions or conjunctions, and is destitute of even a single interjec- tion to express surprise or admiration. The affinity it may bear 1 to other languages. Captain Cook was not able sufficiently to trace, i not having proper specimens to compare it with ; but from the Mexican words ne had procured, there is an obvious agreement, throughout the language, in the frequent terminations of the | words in /, tl, or z. The word wakash was frequently in the mouths of the people I of Nootka. It seemed to express approbation, applause, and friendship. Whenever they appeared to be pleased or satisfied at any sight or occurrence, they would call out wakash ! wakash! \ It is worthy of remark, that as these people so essentially differ from the natives of the islands in the Pacific Ocean, in their per- sons, customs, and language, we cannot suppose their respective progenitors to have belonged to the same tribe, when they emigrated into those places where we now find their descendants, We have already mentioned that the shi^s put to sea on the evening of the 26th of April, with manifest indications of an ap- Eroaching storm, and these signs did not deceive them ; for they ad scarcely sailed out of the Sound when the wind shifted froin north-east to south-east-by-east, and blew a strong gale, with squalls and rain, the sky being at the same time uncommonly dark. Being apprehensive of the winds veering more to the south, which would expose the ships to the danger of a lee-shore, they got the tacks on-board, and made all the sail they could to the south-west. It fortunately happened that the wind veered no further toward the south than south-east, so that early the next morning they were entirely clear of the coast. Captain Gierke's ship being at some distance astern, the commodore brought to tdl she came up, and then both vessels steered a north-westerly course. The wind blew with great violence, and the weather was thick and hazy. Between one and two o'clock, in the afternoon, there was a perfect hurricane ; so that the com- modore deemed it exceedingly dangerous to run any longer be- fore it; he therefore brought the ships to, with their heads to the I south. In this situation, the Resolution sprung a leak in her I starboard quarter, which, at first, alarmed them extremely ; butl after the water was baled out^ which kept the men employed tilll COOK'S THIRD VOVAGF !»-. , midnight, it was kept under bv I / ^'''' haying, m the evening vpp^„7. "*^»n« of one pumn 'n. measure abated, UDon\rk^ k*!^ ^^e southward f?fr ^^ '"" ' abouteleven, the e^uV -^ ^^^Y stretched fn ll ^"'■^"» «0"'« 1 nun. north. Thpv « *"'"• east, and Z\u j "®"" ^'^^ fresh gale, aid fafr^ Jl Z "^^^^^^ north-we^t bv "''!, ^^ ^'^^• hvind again bJew hard --i ' "^"^ towards tK^*"^'^^. ^'^^ « tl.ey continuedThe slr*^ '^"^"« a"d raf„ wfthT"'"^' ^*^<-' north-by-west, nten^r?"''^ .^^"^^ ^^^ 30?h, S ^ ^^«^^" fretted that he couJdnofdo'itT^" *'^^ ^^»d Capta nT\^''^<« spot where the Drpf^n5\? ^* sooner, as he was m? •"^'^ ''t^- piaced by geo? a^rs Ir t^^^^^^^^ credit to such vat.lo!?"^^"*^"ffh the mmmL ^ "^^ "^een Mongitude 225 de^ 14 • "^® ^^ 53 deff oq ^ ^^^ day at , On Friday, thf LT')'' .T^ ^' "^'*^' ^" ^ o'clocklfthe'::tn"/tl^^ «^^ ^ '^ and 'Si^7^T^ ^^^ twelve or fourteen Tf ^^^ ^l^^^^^^d the land «V fi^'^J'"^ «^^^" «a^ ^een from snn/if ^".^^- ^* ^««r, the „eit .» ^-^ ^^"^«»*^*^ «i' being fiv« or siv ] '^'* *« "orth-by-wes" thl ""^"^^ ^^^ coa«t point of an Li? "^-^ distant. ^ Jtthilt."^^"?^ P^rt of it N«^t.by-south an^^^^^ ^' l^^^t what apnea edT^'^K^'" "°^^'^^"» N^y bays and h«i ''''"''. ^« the nortCdfl ^ ^"^ «"^^ bore arm of thi« Ko °* "*^ southern Doinf «f ^ ^^*^ *h« wain land -"'hhS r Mot, pS' '^ "'■ » «on?ide™bk h ' t^P' ™ »""■« t., J H see cook's TinRD VOYAOB. 1776—1780. I? ^ 1 In the progress to the northward they found that the coast from Cape Edgecumbe tended to the north and north-east for six or seven leagues, and there formed a spacious bay. There beini some islands in the entrance of this bay, the commodore named it the Bay of Islands. It seemed to branch out into several arms, one of which turned towards the south, and may, perhaps, con)!| municate with the bay on the eastern side of Gape Edgecumbe, and thus render the land of that cape an island. On the Srd^ at I half an hour after four in the morning. Mount Edgecumbe bore south 54 deg. east ; a large inlet north 50 deg. east ; and the most advanced point of land towards the north-west lying under I a very lofty peaked mountain, which obtained the appellation ol Mount Fair- Weather, bore north 33 deg. west. Tne inlet was I named Cross Sound, having first observed it on the day so marked in the calendar. — The south-easteni point of this Sound is an elevated promontory, which they distinguished by the name of Cross Cape. To the point under the above-mentioned peaked mountain they gave the nume of Cape Fair-Weather. At noon I this cape wao distant twelve or thirteen leagues. They had now light breezes from the north-west, which con- tinued several days; and steered to the south-west, and west- 1 south-west, till the morning of the 4th, when they tacked and stood towards the shore. At twelve o'clock. Mount Fair-Weather bore north 63 deg. east, and the shore under it was about a dozen leagues distant. This mountain is the highest of a chak or ridge of mountains that rise at the north-west entrance of Cross Sound, and extend toward the north-west, parallel tvitii the coast. These mountains were covered with snow, from the highest summit down to the sea-coast, except a few places; where they could discern trees that seemed to rise, as it were, from the sea.^ About five o'clock, in the afternoon,^ the top of a high mountain appeared above the horizon, bearing north 26 deg. west, and, as was afterwards found, nearly forty leagues dis- tant. ^ It was supposed to be the Mount St.Eiias of Commodore Behring. They saw, in the course of this day, several porpoises, seals, and whales; also great numbers of gulls, and many flocks of birds, which had a black ring about the head, and a black band on the tip of the tail and upper part of the wings, the rest being white belo^ and bluish above. They likewise observed a brownish duck, w th a blackish or deep blue head and neck. As they had l.ght winds, with occasional calms, they pro- 1 ceeded but slowly. On the 6th, at mid-day, the nearest land was at I the distance of about eight leagues. In a north-easterly direction I there appeared to be a bay, and an island near its southern point,! covered with wood. This is probably the place where Benringj anchored. Southward of the bay which Captain Cook namedj Behring's Bay, in honour of its discoverer, the chain of moun-l tains already mentioned, is interrupted by a plaiu of severall leagues in extent, beyond which the sight was unbounded. Inl COOK'S T,«„ VOVAO,. ,,,^,,3, rnov a<%.. I 1 .u ft '"'AUK, 1776—1780 me afternoon thev anu^A j , 3«7 depth of about seventvfJlk ' *"^ ^«"nd a muddv hnff«^ . . slo- progress"' On t ^ '^'T «'«' S^rf"'',^ ''rJ""* north 30 dey. east at ih.'j?^"' "o"". Mount ''jt ST ""i?* » kjnd of continuation of ^h??**'"^' ^'^ich may be r A^^^°5«^« projects to^^7M*« commodore named r^^S* ?<■ «" able height, which U a:-j ""^^thin it stands » hni r ^ "® ®^- thenorth-sidTorCapte?' ^"-^ «" '««"Kppea?a„7 ^"Si^^ extensive, and to h^^t i^^V'.*^ " a i>av, whiVh «t ^''^- ^n I'ad some'thouffhts of 1^^*^'?^ '^^^ 'nost winds r^l^^^i^ *>« ieak of his sfip all tt^T^ *« tW« bay" ?„ * d£ f*^'!? ^°«^ having provedjV,?il!^^^ to efem«f 5 *** ^*«P ^'^e having Wly vaSfc"" V ?^ ^^^'«<'«'e steered fn, JT'P'*"^ «' ««» enough to Sep ZJ^^i' however, thev haH o« towards it florth!west- thev^l ^°\'^"^ P^ojecS frnl T'*'^^'**'^ ««^«r andseveS^levatpi" ^^l^^^ «««« jfttk TsIaJS '^Pfu *« ^*»e extremity of thl^*l?;°«^^^ the cape and fhV" *^iu*^«^^ each side of the rnit^Vu ^'^ ^^^^^ appea^d ?n h ^ «orth-ea£t barkedina boa! f^ ^'1^ ^ c^Im about ten /» i ^. ^f«t-«nd P'eces of EngliXrn^^^ I • V'®" enclosed two silver l*^^' ^"^ R 6 i^ean ot Lincoln ; and, in !.! I r IM fit « 11, 'i I M \ 868 COOK*S THIRD VOYAGE, 1776—1780. testimony of his esteem for that gentleman, he distinguished tbe island by the name of Kaye's Island. This isle does not exceed twelve leap^ues in length, and JM bi'eadth is not above a league and a half in any part of it. The south-west point, whose latitude is 59 deg. 49 min. north, and longitude 216 deg. 58 min. east, is a naked rock, considerahlv elevated above the land within it. There is also a high rock Iving off it, which, when seen in some particular directions, has the appearance of a ruinous castle. The island terminates towards the sea, in bare, sloping cliffs, with a beach consisting of large pebbles, intermixed in some places with a clayey sand. | The cliffs are composed of a bluish stone or rock, and are, except in a few parts, in a soft or mouldering state. Some parts I of the shore are mterrupted by small valleys and gullies, in each of which a rivulet or torrent rushes down with a considerable degree of impetuosity ; though, perhaps, only funiifjhed from the snow, and lasting no longer than till the whole is dissolved. These valleys are filled with pine-trees ; and they also abound in other parts of the island, which, indeed, is covered as it were with a broad girdle of wood. The trees, however, are far from being of an extraordinary growth ; few of them seeming to be larger than what a person might grasp round with his arms, and their general height being forty or fifty feet; so that they would be of no great service for snipping, except as materials for making top-gallant masts, and other smaM things. The pine-treesl appeared to be all of one species; and neither the Canadian pinej nor cypress were to be seen. Upon the edge of the cliffs, the surface was covered with kind of turf, about six inches thick, apparently composed of thel common moss ; and the upper part of the island had nearly thef same appearance in point of colour ; but that which covered it, whatever it was, seemed to be thii.!.^r. Amoi x the trees were! some currant and hawbeiTy bushes, a yellow-flowered violet, I and the leaves of other plants not yet in Aower, particularly onel whicl. was su{>posed by Mr. Anderson to be the heracleum of| LinnsBUs. A crow was seen flying about the wood ; two or three whitel headed eagles, like those of Nootka, were also observed;! besides another species equally large, which had a white breastj The commodore likewise saw, in his passage from the ship tol the shore, a number of fowls sittin" upon the water, or flyingi about ; the principal of which were gulls, purres, shags, ducks,! or large peterels, divers, and quebrantahuesses. The divers! were of two sorts ; one very large, whose colour was black, withj a white belly and breast, the other of a smaller size, witl longer and more pointed bill. The ducks were also of two! species, one brownish, with a dark-blue, or blackish head andl neck, the other smaller, and of a dirty, black colour. The shagsl were large and black, having a white spot behind the wingiij cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. 309 iguished the gth, and itn tofit. The . north, and considerablv a high rock irections, has i terminates ;h consistinj; clayey sand. ck, and are, Some parts lilies, in each I considerable | ihed from the is dissolved.! also abound red as it were , are far from leeining to be his arms, and it they would materials for 'he pine-trees anadianpine ivered with a tposed of the I |ad nearly <" covered it,! |e trees werei rered violetl •ticularly one I heracleum o(| three white I observed;! vhite breast,! the shiptol jter, or flyingi lags, ducksj The diversi J black, withl [size, withal lalso oftffol sh head andl The shagsl the wingij Tlie gtdls were of the common sort, flying in flocks. There was aUo a single bird flying about, apparently uf the gull kind, whoso colour was a snowy white, with some blapk along part of the upper side of its wings. At the place where our party landed, a fox came from the verge of the wood, and eyeing them with little emotion, walked leisurely on without manitesting any signs of fear. He was not of a large size, and his colour was a reddish yellow. Two or three small seals were likewise seen near the shore ; but no traces were discovered of inhabitants having ever been in the island. Captain Cook, with those who accompanied him, returned on- board in the afternoon, and, with a light breeze from the east, steered for the south-west side of the island, which they got round by eight o'clock in the evening, and then stood for the westernmost land that was now in sight. At the north-east end of Kiiye's Island stands another island, extending -north-west and south-east about nine miles, to within the same distance of the north-western boundary of the bay mentioned before, to which the appellation of Comptroller's Bay was given. Early the next morning Kaye's Island was still in sight, bearing east by south ; and, at this time, they were at the distance of four or live leagues from the main. At noon, the eastern point of a soacious inlet bore west-north-west, about three leagues distant. From Comptroller's Bay to this point, which the commodore named Cape Hinchingbroke, the direction of the coast is nearly east and west. Beyond this it appeared to incline towards the south ; a direction very difierent from that which is marked out in the modern charts, founded on the late discoveries of the Russians, insomuch, that there was some reason to expect that they should find, through the inlet before them, a passage to the north, and that the land to the west and south-west was a group of islands. The wind was now south-easterly, and they were menaced with a fog and a storm ; and Captain Cook was de- sirous of getting into some place to stop the leak, before he had another gale to encounter. They therefore steered for the inlet, which they had no sooner reached, than the weather became exceedingly foggy, and it was deemed necessary that the ships should be secured in some place or other, till the sky should clear up. With this view they hauled close luider Cape Hinching- broke, and cast anchor before a small cove over a clayey bottom, in eight fathoms' water, at the distance of about two furlongs from the shore. Soon after they had anchored, the boats were hoisted ov,t, some to fish and others to sound. The seine, at the same time, was drawn in the cove, but without success, as it was torn. At intervals, the fog cleared away, and gave a view of the neigh- bouring land. The cape was one league distant ; the western point of the inlet five leagues; and the land on that side ex- tended to west-by-north. Between this point and north-west-bv- ■.;;?«; 370 COOK'S THIR„ VOYAGE, 1776-1780. '•*}^ h* "-■'t, they could a: . '"»-l'8«. .ome rocky islands!" ""* "* ""'"«'' ™ves, an^ed ttei^fe^^^^ "?fWe tj weather returned wSh lAW '^o o'cS 5,.^ considerable HO other land but th^ •" *^.'*^^ « haze thflf^u ® "n^vourable rived between fol^trfit^ -".^ntUt fc"!^?^'''"^ island situated »f fK j- "^® Q clock anAf on which thev ar »^ounng cot?;ltA'^r^^«^'*^«"^ H ^ ^ which they discover^?! ^''*"* ^^ 'and on^i ^''"» theneiVh- this they^ plied „;7^1f;.J^'ce«^^ bay; oTirT'L" ^'^^ of companied with rai„ ^^J*^ T"'^ ^ew i„ v?rv if« ^^'■^^"'■- To land m every direcS* ^""^Sh, at some intl^L ^^!^ ^Quails, ac- %,thatthey%ou7d^2/5.^ m geneniirS ^t^couJdsee they were now steerini^^T^'^^ ^^e sho/es of fh-T ^? Srenta 'nuddy bottom at thp !/ J* *^^««^*nff the isli!?® i?^ ^^'^ ^Wch after, they found LrvoS''*^ o'" twentv^ /W?"*' **»«y found a fnd in thi en^nce of th"* ? "^""^^^ fethJms overT'- ,^«^ 'ong thirty to six fathoms a f ^y* ^^e dep," if ^ ^ '"'^'^y bottom • «Wiged, by the Wolenc^of ?!;«^*^^ ^^«»^ eigh^^ ^'•^^ -fe^tetm- ^« --. th n '^^ ^'^""^^"^^ fanoes ; two men! n ^ * ^^'*- ThrJe of /ht ^^ '*'^*'^ "ot de- her that each cL" °"^' fV^ one inthect^ £*^^ off in twt nearly in thelm ® ^''^^^^ carry • for^K*^*^*'^ being the num that in ori ofT!,'»^ner with tLse of tt^""*'^ construct^ ventured on-board fK^V^'^^^andsmaJlTanop^ ^c*'''*^^ ^^e fol- «»>• people had l*o',^3^ol„ti tWh 2 ,^r*^ofthem ean.c on-board wtl ^'^^^liV^ their boa"s a^ ^^^^^^'^ *ome of found, was ?he cliTef* "^{jf^V'Sed ma„Twho tT^ '^'^ ^ho ?ea-otter, and he h?i* 'Y? ^''^ss was mad^'^ !?®^ afterwards '"habitants of Nootka^'o^ ^'^^ «u^h a tao 1 ?' '^'" "^ «^ He appeared to vlfe ^jf^'^^nted with sky^blL 7'" K^ *»»« heads. Any sort «f k T^**® n»"ch more X *! ^^*«» beads £on with' tZ e' pe:l'^ t^ ^^^' ^^"'^ed to be in"£^ V'^^ "fibers, i hey obtained ^ 'm li f /ii i 'l.r r : ii y ^/ ir 372 cook's third voyage, 1776—1780. f ;'■■ but littlu of this commodity from the ships, as, by this time, it was become rather scarce. The points of some of their spears were of this metal, others of copper, and a tew of bone^ of which last, the points of their arrows, darts, &c. were formed. The chief could not be prevailed upon, to venture below the upper-deck ; nor, did he and hid companions continue long on- board. While they were in the ship, it was necessary to watch them narrowly, as they soon manifested an inclination to thieving. At length, when they had been three or four hours along-side the Resolution, they all quitted her, and repaired to the Discovery, which ship, none of them had before been on- board of, except one man, who came from her at this very time, and immediately returned to her, in company with the others. As soon as they had departed from the Resolution, Captain Cook dispatched a boat to sound the head of the bay ; for, Jb the wind was moderate at present, he had an intention of laying tlie ship ashore, if a proper place could be found for the '■ocess of stopping ^the leak. Soon afterwards, al! the \i^ ans quitted the Discovery, and made their way towards c. boat that was employed in sounding. The officer who was in her, observing their approach, returned to the ship, and all the canoes followed mm. The crew of the boat had no sooner repaired on-board, leaving in her, by way of guard, two of thei. number, than several of the natives stepped into her ; some of whom presented their spears before the two men, while others loosed the rope by wl ' ;h she was fastened to the ship, and the rest was so daring as to tow her away. But the moment they 8a;v that our men were preparing to oppose them, they let her go, stepped out of her into their own boats, and made signs, to persuade them to lay down their arms, being to all appearance perfectly unconcerned. This attempt, though a very bold one, was scarcely equal to what they had meditated on-board Captain Clerke's ship. The man who is mentioned before as having conducted his coun- trymen from the Resolution to the Discovery, had first been on- board the latter ; where, after looking down all the hatch-ways, and observing no one except the officer of the watch, and one CM" two others, he doubtless imagined that she might be plun- dered with ease, particularly as she was stationed at some dis- tance from the Resolution. It was unquestionably with this intent that the natives went off to her. Several of them went on- board without the least ceremony ; and drawing their knives, made signs to the officer, and other people upon deck to keep ofi, and began to search for plunder. The first thing they laid hoiu of was the rudder of one of the boats, which they immediately threw over-board to those of their party who had remained in the canoes. But before they had time to find another object that struck their fancy, the ship's crew were alarmed, and manY ¥ Wr learance ^ cook's TinRD VOYAGE, 1776—1780. 873 of them armed with cutlasses, came upon deck. On observing this, the plunderers all sneaked off into their canoes, with much deliberation and indifference. It was at this time that the boat was occupied in sounding, as we have already mentioned ; and the natives, withont delay, proceeded towards her after the dis* appointment they had met with at the Discovery. Their visiting the ships so early in the morning, was undoubtedly with a view of plundering, on a supposition that they would ftnd all our peo- ple asleep. From these circumstances above related, it may reasonably be inferred, that these people are not at all acquainted with fire- arms. For, if they had known any thing of their elFect, they would by 110 means have ventured to attempt carrying off a boat from under a ship's guns, in the face, of upwards of a hundred men; lor, most of the Resolution's people were looking at them, at the very instant of their making the attempt. However, Captain Cook, left them as ignorant in this particular as he found them ; for, they neither saw nor heard a musket fired, except at birds. As the ships were on the point of weighing anchor, in order to proceed farther up the bay, the wind began to blow as violently as before, and wels attended with rain ; insomuch, that our people v/ere obliged to veer away the cable again, and lie fast. In the evening, perceiving that the gale did not abate, and thinking that it might be some time before an opportunity of getting higher up presented itself, the commodore was determined to heel the ship in their present station ; and, with that view, riused her to be moored with a kedge anchor and hawser. One of the sailors, in heaving the anchor out of the boat, was carried over-board by the buoy-rope, ana accompanied the anchor to the bottom. In this very hazardous situation, he had sufficient presence of mind disengage himself, and come up to the surface of the water, where he was immediately taken up, with a dangerous fracture in one of his legs. Early the following morning, they heeled ihe ship, in order to stop the leak ; which, on ripping off the .s]\eathing, was found to be in the seams. While the carpenters ere employed in this business, others of their people filled the water-casks at a stream not far from their station. The wind had by this time considerably abated ; but, the weather was hazy, with rain. The Americans paid them another visit this morning: those who came off first, were in small canoes ; others arrived afterwards in large ones. In one of these great canoes, were twenty women and one man, besides several children. On Saturday, the 16th, towards the evening, the weather cleared up, and the ships then found themselves encompassed with land. Their station was on the eastern side of the Sound, in a place distinguished by the appellation of Snug Corner Bay. Captain Cook, accompanied by some of his officers, went to take a sur- vey of the head of it ; and they found, that it was sheltered from all winds, and had a muddy bottom, at the depth of from seven ii 'Vl n: ;■ > m I 374 cook's third VOYAOB^ 1776 — 1780. H A to three fathoms. The land near the shore is low; partlv wooded, and partly clear. The clear ground was covered with snow^ but very Uttle remained in the woods. The summits of the hills in the neighbourhood were covered with wood ; but, those that were at a greater distance inland, had the appearance of naked rocks covered with snow. The leak of the Resolution being at length stopped, they weighed anchor on the i7th, at four in the morning, and steered a north-west course, with a gentle breeze, at east-north-east. Soon after making sail, the Americans visited them again, seem- ingly with no other view than to gratify their curiosity, for they did not enter into any traffic with our men. When they had reached the north-western point of the arm wherein they had anchored, they foimd that tne flood-tide came into the inlet, by the same channel through which they had entered. This cir- cumstance, did not much contribute to the probability of a pas- sage ^^ *hf north through this inlet, though it did not make entirely nst it. After passing the point Just mentioned, they met with i. oh foul ground, and many sunken rocks. The wind now failed, and was succeeded b^ calms, and variable light airs, so that they had some difficulty in extricating themselves from the danger that threatened them. At last, however, about one o'clock, they cast anchor in about thirteen fathoms' water, under the eastern shore, about four leagues to the^ northward of the last station. Though the weather in the morning had been \eTy hazy, it cleared up afterwards, so as to aflbrd a distinct view of all the surrounding land, particularly towards the north, where it appeared to close. This gave little hope of meeting with a passage that way ; and that he might be enabled to form a better judgment, Captain Cook sent Mr. Gore, with two armed boats, to examine the northern arm ; and, at the same time dispatched the master, with two other boats, to survey another arm that seemed to incline towards the east. Both of them returned at night. The master informed the commodore, that the arm to which he had been sent, communicated with that he had last quitted, and that one side of it was formed by a cluster of islands. Mr. Gore reported, that he had seen the entrance of an arm which, he thought, extended a very consi- derable way to the north-eastward, and by which a passage might probably be found. On the other hand, Mr. Roberts, one of the mates, who had accompanied Mr. Gore on this occa- sion, gave it as his opinion, that they saw the head of this arm. The disagreement of these two opinions, and the circumstance before-mentioned, of the llpod-tide entering the inlet from the southward, rendered the existence of a passage this way ex- tremely uncertain. Captain Cook, therefore, determined to employ no more time, in seeking a passage, in a place that affi)rded so small a prospect of success, particularly as the wind was now become favourable for getting out to sea. )w; partly vered with units of the but, those earance of »ped, they nd steered north-east, ain, seem- y, for they I they had they had B inlet, by This cir. ' of a pas- not make )ned, they The wind light airs, ilves from ]ibout one ter, under Eird of the been vtry tinct view e north, meeting to form ith two :he same survey ^t. Both imodore, kvith that ied by a jeen the \y consi- )assage toberts, lis ocea- ns arm. istance rom the ray ex- [ned to :e that ke wind cook's third voyage, 1776—1780. h78 The next morning, about three o'clock, they weighed, and made sail to the southward down the inlet, with a light northerly breeze. They met with some broken ground, as on the preced ing day, but soon extricated themselves from it. They were en lied to shorten their way out to sea, by discovering another psssage into the inlet, to the south-west of that by which they entered. It is separated from the othei* by an island, that extends eighteen leagues, in the direction of south-west and north-east, to which Captain Cook gave the appellation of Mon- tagu Island. There are several islands in this south-western channel. Those which are situated in the entrance, next the open sea, are ele- vated and rocky. Those that are within are low ; and as they were totally free from snow, and covered with wood and ver- dure, they were, for this reason, denominated Green Islands. The wind, at two o'clock in the afternoon, veered to the south- west, and south-west-by-south, which subjected them to the ne- cessity of plying. Tliey first stretched over, to the distance of within two miles of the eastern shore, and tacked in about fifty- three fathoms. As they stood back to Montagu Island, they discovered a ledge of rocks, some under water, and others about the surface. They afterwards met with some others towards the middle of the channel. These rocks rendering it unsafe to Sly during the night, they spent it in standing off and on under [ontagu Island ; for the depth of water was too great, to come to an anchor. The next morning, at break of day, they steered for the channel between the Green Islands and Montagu Island^ which is about two leagues and a half in breadth. The wind was inconsiderable the whole day, and about eight o'clock in the evening they had a perfect calm, when they let go the anchors, at the depth of twenty-one fathoms, over a muddy bottom, about the distance of two miles from Montagu [sland. The calm Dntinued till ten o'clock the next morning, when it was succeeded by a light breeze from the north, with which the^ again weighed and made sail. Having got into the open sea in the evening, it was discovered that the coast tended west* by-south, as far as the eye could reach. The inlet which they had now quitted, was distinguished by Captain Cook, with the name of Prince William's Sound. From whiit they saw of it, it seems to occupy at least one degree airid a half of latitude, and two degrees of longitude, exclusive of the branches or arms, with whose extent they were unacquainted. The natives whom they saw were, in general, of a middling stature, though many of them were under it. They were square, or strong chested, with short thick necks, and broad visages, which were, for the most part, rather flat. The most disproportioned part of their body appeared to be their heads^ which were very large. Their teeth were of a tolerable white- ness, broad, well set, and equal in size. Their noses had fall 376 cook's tlilRD voyaOl, 1776—1780 ■M' I /.I' "^. I round points, turned up at the tip ; and their eyes, though not small, were scarcely proportioned to the largeness of their faces. They had black hair, which was strong, straight, and thick. Their beards were, in general, thin or deficient ; but, the hairs growing about the lips of those who have them, were bristly or stiff, and often of a brownish colour ; and some of the elderly men had large, thirk, straight beards. Though, for the most part, they agree in the formation of their persons, and the largeness of their heads, the variety in their features is considerable. Very few, however, can be said to be handsome, though their countenance usually indicates frankness, vivacity, ard good nature ; and yet, some of therii shewed a reverse, and sullenness in their aspect. The faces of some of the women are agreeable ; and many of them, but prin- cipally the younger ones, mav easily be distinguished from the other sex, by the superior deficacy of their features. The com- plexion of some of the females, and of the children, is white, without any mixture of red Many of the men, whom they saw naked, had rather a swarthy cast, which could scarcely be tiie effect of any stain, as they du not paint their bodies. The men, women, and children of the Sound, are all clothed in the same manner. Their ordinary dress is a sort of close frock, or rather robe, which sometimes reaches only to tlie knees, but generally down to the ankles. It has at the upper part, a hole just sufficient to admit the head, with sleeves reaching to the wrist. These frocks are composed of the skins of various ani- mals, such as the grey fox, racoon, pine-martin, sea-otter, seal, &c. and they are commonly worn with the hairy side outward. Some of the natives have their frocks made of the skins of fowls, with only the down left on them, which they glue upon other substances ; they also saw one or two woollen garments, resem- bling those of the inhabitants of King George's Sound. At the seams, where the different skins are sewed together, they are usually adorned with fringes or tassels, of narrow thongs cut out of the same skins. A few have a kind of cape or collar, and some have a kind of hood ; but the other, is the most customary form, and appears to constitute the whole dress in fair weather. They put over this, when it is rainy, another frock, made with some degree of ingenuity, from the intestines of whales, or of some other large animal, prepared with such skill as to resemble, in a great measure, our gold-beater's leaf. It is formed, so as to be drawn tight round the neck, and its sleeves extend down to the wrist, round which they are fastened with a string. When tl) ,' are in their canoes, they draw the skirts of this frock over th rim of the hole in which they sit, so that the water is pre- vented from entering. At the same time it keeps the men dry upward, for no water can penetrate through it. It is apt to crack, or break, if it is not constantly kept moist. This frock, as well as the common one made of skins> is nearly similar cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. 377 to the dress of the natives of Greenland, as described by Crantz*. In general, the inhabitants of this inlet, do not cover their legs or feet, but a few of them wear a kind of skin stockings, which reach half-way up their thighs ; and scarcely any of them are without mittens for their hands, formed from the skins of bears' paws. Those who wear any thing on their heads, resembled, in this respect, the people of Nootka, having high truncated conic caps, composed of straw, and sometimes of wood. 'jlie hair of the men is commonly cropped round the forehead and neck ; but the females, suffer it to grow long ; and, the greatest part of them tie a lock of it on the crown, while a few club it behind, after our manner. Both the men and women )erforate their ears with several holes, about the outer and ower part of the edge, wherein they suspend small bunches of )eads. They also perforate the septum of the nose, through which they often thrust the quill -feathers of birds, or littte bending ornaments, made of a tubulous, shelly substance, strung on a stiff cord, of the length of three or four inches, which give them a ridiculous and grotesque appearance. But the most extraordinary ornamental fashion, adopted by some of the natives of both sexes, is their having the under lip cut quite through length-wise, rather below the swelling part. This incision is often above two inches in length, and either by its natural retraction, when the wound is still fresh, or by the repetition of some artificial management, assumes the appearance and shape of lip«^, and becomes sufficiently large to admit the tongue through. This happened to be the case, when a person with his under lip thus slit was first seen by one of our sailors, who imme- diately exclaimed, that the man had two mouths, which indeed, it greatly resembles. They fix in this artificial mouth, a flat, nar- row kind of ornament, made principally out of a solid shell, or bone, cut into small, narrow pieces, like teeth, alniost down to the base or thick part, which has, at each end, a projecting bit, that serves to support it when put into the divided lip, the cut part then appearing outwards. Some of them only perforate the lower lip into separate holes, on which occasion, the ornament con- sists of the same number of distinct, shelly studs, the points of which are thrust through these holes, and their heads appear within the lip, not unlike another row of teeth under their natural ones. Such are the native ornaments of these people. But our men observed among them, many beads of European manufacture, chiefly of a pale, blue colour, which they hang in their ears, about their caps, or join to their lip ornaments, which have a small hole drilled in each of the points to which they are fastened, and others to them, till they hang sometimes as low as the point of the chin. In this last case, however, they cannot remove • Crantz's History of Greenland, Vol. 1. p. 130—138. > ■ m ,n u jirs COOK'S TH,«BV0VA0E,lrr6_,r8». i" (1 I M :. * .!!'' ineir canoes are of *wn^!f ?J "eir peraons. i^"Pie «ljo^» oft«7*p'::"rt' '''^'j!:^'' »"X woSdV,^"' If and materials ««*!?' *!? constructed of npa)J^ *!' ^'*® ""^^'^ Some of tCe Z t^'l ""^ *« «^q«^mai. /„7 {!?^ ««r ^«"« 0. "'%"»««*«, they , ^ 'ley likewise tance, or others f»ce resemblinif amentsofsome perforated lip. [on nails, pro.' tempted to put ar, of a bright >ut not in any the chin with custom, very «a females, as Jeople are not ^city of mate- ^ brought for )le they have, these people '^ open, the before, that aren, in one ly examined escription of ^t they were the form of » somewhat of slender heskins of The small same form senlanders. rtwo per. ohn; and, ^oae of the ;"':'""«»— ,.n6-.„,o. body, and may „„t in„.op.rl7 '""'■ "'(SpS- Cook had „ """"""" '" *« ^"^y^ -m (labitationti of thi. n.." *" "PPortiinitv nf .« • where the ships anch,iT' "^ """^ oetLrnT'",f'"'yf*h<, respect to their dnmr""' •"• "''«■« any of S.^T'* '» «he bay some ronnd and oraT'^LS'*"!!,'.''; *«Tbro„fcl""u^<'f'- ^ii of a cylindrical fom , ^^1" •'"^M, ratliVr fhll ""eir canoes, of one piece be„r;' oonsiderabJy d^ener n"^' '"^ oAeis but thict, a^'d neVv ^"-^^ after L manner rf?"^''lf'»'™'ed feed in Wh sS7n^*"°r'''^''' thongs -the h..'''''P-''»«s, smaller, and of T^„^^«? "' wood. oLr, » °"°"" being butter-boat, withon?^ *'T"'.,''«"«. not „nliU "* .'"■"e'^hat niadeftom'aSeof t?^"'"^' but shXwl ">«« °»«l .omedmes ne^atircafvrd" V/T*.''"™^ ««b?J^^^^^^^ w«"> "Wch were conSS^dX™,*' '''""'i*" i^'e^f^^^^'iriirr?'' small cord mada out of rt ^^^ "ne sinews »^3 k j,"' "> nuity. They iikewl. k "f P'aited with ey't^"'l,''""^'es of canoes, checkered hf\ ''/''"?'" some wood-n ''^?'"7' >«ee- ?»d a <^onside«ble^J;!.'f ' ''»"«''* »° SVasTt "l/ ""«' ~^L"^si??"o/ro^tTtiS'^^^^^^^^^^^^^ loud noise andTl^" ^^^'^' ^^'^^^ Xn «h«l?^'''''^'' ^^ ^ried ^vance S'pTo1,awT/rb's!^%P»?^^^^^^ ^'#^^« « George's Sound. ^ * '"^^'''"te fSr the i^tSir J^^^^^^^^ . ^t was not known v^ih l ^"^ frames of canoes Xr^ *" ^^a* tools their «, j ^ong them was '•r?^'*^^*^^«^y^^^^^ -*^"''"^'' those of OtaLil ^,«o? of stone adze ««^?*^^» observed ^. ^ nefrarT™^T^ ^ SF* round their necks U^'^VJ* '^^^^^^ oTHkimL^ "^M '« the that they use them onV"*^' *'*^^' 'obe, or frS ifi ^^ ^ *ong «>« applicable foSff^^ ^** weapons, and tW Vl, ^* '« Probable, 280 cook's third voyage, 1776—1780. tlif and their plaiting of sinews, sewing, and small work on their little bags, above-mentioned, may be said to vie with the neatest manufactures found in any part of the globe. Upon the whole, considering the uncivilized state of the natives of this Sound. their northerly situation, amidst a country almost continuHlly covered with snow, and the comparatively wretched materials thev have to work with, it appears, that, with respect to their skill and invention in all manual operations, they are at least equal to any other people. The food that they were seen to eat, was the flesh of some animal, either roasted or broiled, and dried fish. Some of the former that was purchased, had the appearance of bear's flesli. They likewise eat a larger sort of fern-root, either baked or dressed in some other method. Some of our people observed them eat freely of another substance, which they imagined, was the inner part of the pine-bark. Their drink, in all i)robability, is water, for, in their canoes they brought snow in wooden vessel" which they swallowed by mouthfuls. Their manner of eating is decent and cleanly, lor they always took care to remove any dirt that might adhere to their food ; and, thonj^h they would sometimes eat the raw fat of some sea-animals, they did not fail to cut it carefully into mouthfuls. Their persons were to appearance, always clean ; and their utensils, in general, were kept in excellent order, as were also their boats. The language of this people seems difKcult to be understood; which is, perhaps, not cwing to any confusion or indistinctness in their sounds, but to the various significations which their words bear. For, they appeared frequently to make use of the same word, on very different occasions ; though, doubtless, if they had had a longer intercoiu'se with them, this might have proved to be a mistake on their part. Among the very few words of their language, that Mr. Anderson was enabled to procure, are the following, viz : — aa^ yes ; keetUy give me some- thing ; taiciik, keep it ; akimbou, w'^.at's the name ol that? namnk, an ear-ornament ; natooneshuk, a sea-otter's skin ; allien, a sjjcar; ^'«m/, I'll go, or, shall I go? kelashuk, guts of which they make jackets ; naema, give me something by way of exchange, or barter ; lohaehai, shall I keep it ? oocuaka, of or belonging to me. ITie knowledge of the animals of tliis part of the American continent, is entirely derived from the skins that were brought by the natives for sale These were principally of bears, com- mon and pine-martin, sea-otters, seals, racoons, small ermines, foxes, and the whitish cat, or lynx. Among these various skins, the most common were those of racoons, martins^ and sea- ot'ars, which constituted the ordinary dress of these people; but the skins of the martins, which were, in general, of a far lighter brown, than those of Nootka, were greatly superior to them in point of fineness ; whereas, those of the sea-otters, whicb^ ). work on tlieir fith the neatest )on the whole, )f this Sound' 'St continually hed materials spect to tlieir ■y are at least flesh of some Some of the ' bear's flesh. er baked or plc observed nagined, was I probability, '. in wooden ir manner of ook care to and, thoui^h nimals, they heir persons ^ in general, ^s. luiderstood; idistinct'.iess which their 5 use of the loiibtless, if might have le very few enabled to e me some- at ? namuk, ^, a sj)ear; they make change, or longing to COOK'S T.,mo VOVAOE, ,7r6_,78« M well as the martins wpr. i 88| Nootka, seemed to h^' % '""'^^^ "lore Dlentifnl ». fineness of their f,?rri'^""«.!^'r«bly inferior rtholil'T *^«" «* to size ; and were fn!*?il'^** ^^^y ^^^ exceeded th. **^'S\ness and The .skins of seafs/ni^'t '""^* P«rt,„f the ^fe ^'th respect the former were 'iif ^'^\' ^^realLtle^l^''^^^^ sfc'ns the iiativerbToudit «? '' V*"^' ^^^ ^'^^ite bear nf i. skills of cubs. There T, J ^T^ ^'^''^^^ and son,. "^V^^ "hose skin has verv K • li^'' ^/'^ Wolverene nr P'^.'^P^^^e ermine than the rom,„^"^^^ ^«^0"rs; and a Lr ^"^'^^''^tch, -a-eiy any btkTn'S^ tail'' Vf^^>^"' brlT^n^fir "' very large animal, was Iilf.5 J^'^ ^'^'n of the hJS I'^'^'^'S "ot possibly dec de whifT"^ ^*'«»P^»t to them hnAl *** '^'"^ shagginess of the hair «! J^ ^^^ ' *h«"gh, from tt ''f^ ^«"^d they conjectured that t miiff "?.' '^^^^^bllrg^'any land ^ '"i^ sea-bear. But nnTVfT^^^ "^ ^^at of the maL ... • ^ animal, f'eir obser^tionTVal1hat'"7* beautift,] s^ hTt'Ter^''^ '^Aofabrown^oWonShlK T"" animal, „eaJ ffnnf-' whitish specks tJ.« =:!j , • "^ "^ck. witha m.^K i. . ®' "» fevvof these spect T^' ^^J'^-^*' « bludsh a K "?' ^*^^^»^«' of the bod V and ?; ^^ ^^'^^ ^^ about a th Vd 1. ,\^V* ^^^h a doubtless the same J^T^^^^ ^^"^^ whit Lh ha'r '^ TV* ^*^".^""^^h l'« account oAhTNew Nnl ^^'^.^ ^'« ^«"ed by M^l?"ff "^^ .^'« "'ouse. But J^Ll ^^^rtbernArchineJao-n y ^^*^bn, in «q"irrel, ij ev Tmfu ^' 1* ' ^^aliy ofThe^^'i^ "r"^^ ^^Id- ^^ough Mr AnW "* "''^ determine for IT f ^'"^^ «' a '0 ivc here S5.1' ""?'"»■' ""O'Wh it can r=,? ,1 "'"»'' ""eiV «h as they me/a ij&z::r ''j-'^ -'~srtrr• -■I. 1 1 i III 382 cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. able supply of them as to refreshment, llie duck beforc-inen> tioned, is about the size of the common wild duck, of a deep, black, with red feet, and a short pointed tail. Its bill is white, tinged towards tiie point with red, and has a large black spot, almost square, near its base, on each side, where it is also dis. tsnded. On the forehead is a large triangular white spot ; and on the hinder part of the neck is one still larger. The colours of the female are considerably duller than those of the male; and it has none of the ornaments of the bill, excepting the two black spots, which are rather obscure. A species of diver, which seems peculiar to this place, was observed here, It is equal to a partridge in size, and has short, black, compressed bill. Its nead, and the upper part of its neck, are of a brownish black ; and the remainder of its body is of a deep brown, obscurely waved with black, except the under part, which is totally of a blackish cast, minutely varied with white. They also found a small land bird of the finch kind, about the size of a yellow hammer, but they imagined it to be one of those which change their colour with the season, and with the different migrations. It was at this time of a dusky brown, with a reddish tail ; and the supposed male had, on the crown of the head, a large yellow spot, with some varied black, on the upper part of its neck ; but, the latter was rn the breast of the female. The fish that were principally brought by the i s for sale, were torsk and halibut; and our men caught sou^e scalping about the ship, with star-fish, of a purple hue, that had sixteen or eighteen rays. The rocks were almost destitute of shell-iish ; and the other animals of this tribe, that were observed by them^ were a reddish crab, covered with very large spines. The metals seen were iron and copper; both which, bwt more particularly the former, were in such abundance, as to form the points of numbers of their lances and arrows. Tlie ores which they made use of to point themselves with, were a brittle, unctuous, red ochre, or iron ore ; a pigment of a bright blue, and black lead. Each of these seemed to be very scarce among them. Captain Cook observed few vegetables of any kind; and the trees that chiefly grew about this Sound, were the Canadian and spruce pine, some of which were of a considerable size. These people must, doubtless, have received from some more civilized nation the beads and iron found among them. It is almost certain thai our men were the first Europeans with whom j they had ever had a direct communication ; and it remains only to be determined, from what quarter they had procured our manufactures, by intermediate conveyance. It is more than| probable that they had obtained these articles through the inter- vention of the more inland tribes, either from the settlements I about Hudson's Bay, or those on the lakes of Canada ; unless ck before-men. ck, of a deen ts bill is white ge black spot; ' It IS also dis. ^^itespot; and The colours of the male; pting the two lis place, wag se, and has a upper part of ler of its body :, except the nutely varied »e finch kind, fined it to be season, and e of a diuky 5 had, on the varied black, 1 the breast MP rail arlniit t ic nrinnnu.V;^ .• 383 M file natives of L;. '*'"''*^<* ^'»^'»- tra/Iic t„ K?J /k "' ^^"'"f" hli-'s Sound!' '" ^"'^^^' -^'» the n^l^illilllt^-P^-an \\ nil respect to copner fl ^® Iiojiideives, or, at mnsr if ' ^®*'® People, nerhana « -r, .vl,e„ our ^ei Xed aC^ if k"'- 0\ra«'? express its be nir in snffl.." ^* i" ^'^^ ^ay of barfpr ♦!, """^»; P their .veapons ; L if^y nTeaS T'^ T'^^ ^''"1^! byfe?^ ^.«ch^,per of theiro.i'Jim; r^t^r ^^^^^ ^'; '--ever, the natives of H ' • , '"''"'^^"^ ean commodities by means nf" Jk "^- * ^»*^ f'irnished with V isfern coast, if .'u -/.. "^^"^ of the interm^^.„*„ l" Z^^'^ Euro 3 for sale, »i^e scalping had sixteen »f shell-fish; ^ed by them, which, but ance, as to rows. The vith, were a of a bright j very scarce d; and the nadian and iean commodities by means nr'Jk "^- * ^»*^ furnished with V astern coast, it is ra^C Je^arklM.Trf'r.^^^^^^ traffic to 1^ ■ "7/ ^'^^e «"PPlied the moretlain F**^ • *^"^ «^«"id never » Zi:tt^:^^^^^^^ ^Z!''' ve^grSd^! .) tlieship, steered ot4"r.'''"" ^-^dnesday, (he sofh <• il vt'"^?'""^^'^""" after ?"|„°„i"^ «■!»«« "oS X lift "'"^ "ontinued to stretch .Tl''^ " '"•«eze from pr4td^o7rrTr.f •!'«'«"'"* of 'iTdrv^?^ M E,i,X?h"^a b rVda™' C» {' •'"•j;'"^ ^di o ™^»-»1 Cape Eizabeth 4. Vk ^' '"«P'ai' Cook cave ;, ?.'^"*<' on 384 cook's third voyage. 1776 — 1780. ti *■ ; covered, extending to the southward ; on which wa<» Geen t| ridge of mountains, with summits covered with snow^ behinjl the first land, which was supposed to be an island^ from t&cl very inconsiderable quantity of snow that lay upon it. The lay tude of this point of land is 58 deg. 15 min. and its longitudtl 207 deg. 43 min. And, by what the commodore could gatherl from Behring's Voyage and[ Chart, he supposed it to be whatM called Cape St. Hermogenes. But the account of that vovagj as well as the chart, are so extremely inaccurate, that it is aliDostl impossible to discover any one place which that navigator! either saw or touched at. The commodore, indeed, was by nof meana certain, that thp bay which he had named after Behrio» was the place where he had anchored. In the chart above mentioned, a space is here pointed ... where Behring is supposed to have seen no land. This favourejl Mr. Staehlin's account, who makes Cape St. Hermogenes, a^jl the land discovered by Behring to the south-west of it, to be A cl'.ister of islands, and that St. Hermogenes is one of those whicbl are destitute of wood. This appeared to be confirmed by wliatT tiiey now saw, and they entertamed the pleasing hopes of findiDgl here a passage northward, without being under the necessity off proceeding any farther to the south-west. By variable light airs and calms they were detained off thel cape till two o'clock in the morning of the 25th, when a breeze! sprin.dfing up, they steered along the coast, and perceived that! the laid of Cape St. Mermogenes was an island, about six league ill circumference, separated from the coast by a channel oti about one league in breadth. Some rocks lie above water,! league and a half to the north of this island ; and on the nortb-l east side of them they had from twenty to thirty fathoms' water.! About noon St. Hermogenes bore south-east, distant eightl leagues, the lend to the norta-west extending from south half| west to near \^ est. In the list direction it ended in a low point! named Point Banks. The ship was at this time in the latitudej of 58 deg. 44 min. and in the longitude of 207 deg. 44 min. In! this* situation the land was in sight, bearing north-west, which, it[ w&s imagined, connected Cape Elizabeth with this south-wesj land. When they approached it, they saw it was a group ofl high islands and rocks, and consequently unconnected with any! other land. From the nakedness of their appearance^ they wera denominated the Barren Isles ; they are situated in the latitudej of 59 deg, three leagues distant from Cape Elizabeth^ and five from Point Banks. They intended to have passed through one of the channels b)j which these islands are divided, but a strong current setting against them, thev went to the leeward of them all. The weatherj %vliich liad been thick and hazy, cleared up towards the evening] and they perceived a very lofty promontory, whose elevatef summit appeared above the clouds^ forming two exceedingll cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. 385 high mountains. The commodore named this promontory Cape Douglas, in honour of his friend Dr. Doui;las, Canon of Wind- Isor. Its latitude is 58 deg. 56 min. and its longitude 206 deg. lOmin. twelve leagues from Point Banks, and ten to the westward of the Barren Isles. The coast seemed to form a large deep bay, between this point and Cape Douglas, which from their observing some smoke upon Point Banks, received the name of Smoky Bay. On the 26th at da,y-break, being to the northward of tiie Barren Isles, they perceived more land, extending from Cape Douglas to the north. It formed a chain of mountains of vast height, one of which, being much more conspicuous than the rest, obtahied the name of Mount St. Augustin. They were not discouraged a.t perceiving this land, supposing it to be wholly unconnected with the land of Cape Elizabeth. They also expected to find a passage to the north-west, between Cape Douglas and Mount St. Augustin. It was, indeed, imagined, that the land to the north of Cape Douglas consisted of a group of islands, separated by so many channels, an^ of which they might have chosen, according to the direction of the wind. Flattered with these ideas, and having a fresh gale at north- north-east, they stood to the north-west till eight o'clock, when they were fully convinced that what they had supposed to be islands, where summits of mountains, connected by the lower land, which they could not perceive at a greater distance on account of the haziness of the horizon. This land was covered wholly with snow, from the tops of the mountain down to the sea-beach, and Lad in every other respect the appearance of a great continent. Captain Cook was now convinced that he should discover no passage by this inlet ; and his persevering in the search of it, was more to satisfy others than to confirm his own opinion. Mount St. AugUbtin, at this time, bor*^ north-west about three leagues distant. It is of vast height, an J of a conical figure ; but whether it be an island, or part of the continent, they did not ascertain. Perceiving that nothing was to be done to the west, tiiey stood over to Cape Elizabeth, under v/hich they fetched at about five in the afternoon. Between Cape Elizabeth and a l^fty promontory, which they named Cape Bede, is a bay in which there appeared two snug harbours. I'hey stood into this bay, and might have anchored there in twenty- three fathoms' water; but the commodore having no such intention, tacked, and stood to the westward, with a very strong gale, accompanied with rain and hazy weather. The gale abated the next morning, and about three o'clock, in the afternoon the weather cleared up. Cape Douglass bearing south-west by west, and the depth of water being forty fathoms over a rocky bottom. The coast from Cape Bede tended north-east by east, with a P r t m^ 5H6 IM m COOK'S THIRD VOVAO,?, ma^mO JheTanlr "w^^^^^^^^^^ the sa.e direction. 0„ «, drove to the southward anrfini J ""*''"''''*'« ">nd «■<■ i. afeie part 7 r^ 'i '"'?' °"^ «*' the bowers ^n^ "^^ *'*«"&'^ • hour. At ten nvi« i J ^9''^ and ran almn«f fr ,*®'"nward weed anV ^^°^*^ ^t was ow water P, ! ^^"*' ^"o^s in a« three knots anA fV^ * ^a^^*^- The strenffth of thJn ^ • ?^" »« ten ™c ock b^r^h" ^J?'' »"PPo.ed it to k:','"'" "'"«"" «»? columns of imol'''* *'''' ■■'"' down t I almo, T T^' »''°"' Wn sign thaMi k^'* """ "^'ble on (he Z^l '"*,'"«• Two the afte™„ "•'■abitants were near -n. '"^'e"! shore, a cer- ^^--ched over to the west.™ sho., intending to J noon. the di the sti to ap but to said ; shore, ('aptai convej Tiief Prince mes w visitors jet blac a large in the iJ shore, \ iiihabite The si left, tliej fetched i on tjie oj aI)oiit f'o looked fr was thus against ss to be the They k s&i'est, am tv/o or th f'ght o'ch north-east ebb. Until th saltness, b 'vhich is in displayed «bb, was n cook's third vo/aoe, ir76 — 1780. 387 and ,he d.^ „f ft, .- j« ble«- fresh eJeriv CtVf «<" «nder /ai** fr-^^T. before a calm enm^T' ^"i ""^y had not b«.n I ' ^''.* "'"«• "here Mr. K^XjeTb."' '" "« ^'hota"".™? .*5r ' ""-^y supposed meant to^ivJ "^ ^^^^«ded a^at^h'S'"^?^ convince him thaf f^i^ ^ *"^^^ peaceable H,««^ •^'"^*^®^ he and his atte™da„? anSirr^iS'^""' Aot' 0„V"r'- *" seemed alarmed n«^ * ^"^ muskets in tu^- l V* ^mg ™-ld iay tTerd'™''*?/!??*^*' (b? ex^l^f ^ ' ''".ds the? and then Mr Kin» ITj l- "* '*'as immediati-W "^""J.'nat they ^-^oFihefak^:^^^^^ «^the^Vsco,,V^VJ««e? «^^^««^ tlie boat, sW it ^p«rl^^i«»««<'the dog? ^i d f^E^^"'"*^ *« be ceedinfflv 8urn^« a *" *heir sight At ft.1 *?^"S^ '^ toward <^ompany thev w'.ll/ 5"^ "«^ ^hink n/^ jhi^^^ seemed ex- they had^concealed S?"*- ^^^^ ^ but 5^presS'« ' '^^' '" «"«'» close behind SVr^'''."^d«thrw;^^^^^^ ^t was swampy, and 'fhf m "^ mformed them T«f i^*" ^'"^hes duced ^nn!7:2T^ *¥, «o'l poor '.„H I.vIt"'v*¥* ^he ground wa. swa= and'thf'- V"« '»'«'™ed th7mTh',/".r '"'»''« diioed some piSes »M "<"' I?""' nd light it T *''" ^o««d currant buslies I!,'d . ,1'2' ''"•<^'', and iSLs .'.'""^«''«'-. Pro- flow" to be see-r' " '""<' ^» = but Sr^i^Zr/r f-^ As soon as if wao i.: u P^^"* m with a faint breezT «r5i ^^^'^ ^^e ships weie-hp.! i t"rnofthefloonblt:d r' ** *^" ^^«^«hor:^ wh^^^^^^^ «oon after they were visiteST *° ^»«*»«r eariy^elS ^' *^^- '«" who bartered their skinf^J^^/^^eral of the nativS • "^^''^mg. ments, many of fh^l l^ ^"^ afterwards nartP^ ''^?? '" <^anoes, they brough^t a i!L'i?«'**"r»'n& Quite nafed "^A^*^ ^^^'^ S^^' red foxes, but onlv/j'"^"^^ of the skins of w1^^°"?f .«th«»« purchased TmeVZl'''}^n.'^'^' ofottskV^^^'^ «»d preferred iron to ^ever' *^' ^"* ^"^ Sn Th™^" ?^«« {t^.;pornamenL47eisfe t' offered Sem in^'hf ^'« William's Sound • but il^ " ^??^»<*n among them th«« * ^"^^ •" :vorn frequent and in ^""^^ ^^^h pass thronth *K ^* ^""^e ikewise'm:?*^ elVoid^e're^'^ ^ ^'deniteger ' Th' TS hank, nearly ^^^^^^^^ «^»^4 aVd stucT?*r "^^'^^ ''•(•,< ii;^J i' 392 cook's third voyage, 1776—1780. oeen observed when turning up the river. They had twelve feet depth of water about the ship^ at the lowest of the ebb^ but the bank was dry in other parts. ^ When the Resolution came aground. Captain Cook made a signal for the Discovery to anchor. He was afterwards informed, that she had been almost ashore on the west-side of the bank. About five o'clock in the afternoon, as the flood-tide came in, the ship floated off without sustaining any damage, or occasion- ing the least trouble. They then stood over to the west shore, where they anchored in deep water, to wait for the ebb, as the wind was still contraiy. At ten o'clock at night they weighed again with the ebb ; and about five the next morning, (the 3rd of June) when the tide was finished, they cast anchor on the west shore, about two miles below the bluff point. When they were in this station, a good man^ of the natives came off, and attended them all the morning, Their company was very acceptable, for they brought with them a large quantity of fine salmon, which they exchanged for some trifles. Most part of it was split and ready for drying, and several hundred weight of it was procured for the two ships. The mountains for the first time since entering the river, were free from clouds, and our men perceived a volcano in one of those on the western side. Its latitude is 60 deg. 23 min. ; and the first high mountain to the north of Mount St. Augustin. The volcano is near the summit, and on that part that is next the river. It did not now make any striking appearance, emitting only a white smoke, but no fire. The wind remaining southerly, they continued to tide it down tb" river ; and on the morning of the fifth, arriving at the place wiiere they had lost the kedge- anchor, they attempted to recover it, but without success. Before departing from this place, they were again visited by sonie of the natives, in six canoes, from the eastern shore. For half an hour they remained at a small distance from the shipa^ gazing at them with a kind of silent surprise, without uttering a syllable to them, or to each other. At length they took courage, came along-side, and began to barter with our men ; nor did th^y leave them till they had parted with every thing they had brought with them, consisting of a few skins and some salmon. It may not be improper to remark, that all the people met with in this river had a s'Tiking resemblance to those who inhabit Prince William's Sviund, but differed most essentiallv from those of Nootka, both in their persons and language. The language of these is rather more guttural ; but, like the others, tliey speak strongly and distinct, in words wliich seem sentences. The points of their spears and knives are made of iron ; spme of the former, indeed, are made of copper. Their sp€|ars :;-esein- ble our spontoons; and their knives, for which they have sheaths, are of considerable length. These, with a few glass- beads, are the only things they saw amongst them that were pot COOK*S THIRD VOYAGE, 177()— 1780. 393 of their own manufacture. They had already hazHitled coiyec- iiires from whence they derive their foreign articles, and may observe, that if it were probable that they Ibund their way to them from such of their neighbours with whom the Russians may have established a trade, it may be asserted, tkxat the Russians themselves have never been amongst them, for if that had been the case, they would not then have found them clothed in such valuable skins as those of the sea-otter. A very beneficial fur-trade might certainly be carried on with the natives of this vast coast : but without a northern passage, it is too remote for Great Britain to be benefitted by such com- merce. It should, however be observed, that the only valuable skins on this west-side of North America, are those of the sea- otter. All their other skins were of an inferior quality ; and it should be farther observed, that the greater part of the. skins which was purchased from them, were made up into garments. Some of these, indeed, were in good condition, but others were old and ragged, and ail of them verv filthy. But, as skins are used by these people only for clothing themselves, they, per- haps, are not at the trouble of dressing more of them than they require for this purpose. This is probably the chief use for wliich they kill the animals, for the sea and the rivers seem to supply them witli the principal articles of food. But if they were once habituated to a constant trade with foreigners, such an intercourse would increase their wants, by acquamting them with new luxuries ; to be enabled to purchase these, they would become more assiduous in procuring skins ; a plentiful supply of which might doubtless be obtained in this country. The tide is very considerable in this river, and contributes very much to facilitate the navigation of it. In the stream it is liigh-water between two and three o'clock, on the days of the new and full moon ; and the tide rises between three and four fatlioms. The mouth of the river being situated in a corner of the coast, the flood that comes from the ocean is forced into it by both shores, which swells the tide to a greater height than at other parts of this coast. The ebb-tide making in favour of the ships, they weighed, and with a gentle breeze at south-west, plied down the river. The flood, however, obliged them to anchor again : at length, about one o'clock the next morning, a fresh breeze sprung up at west, with which they got under sail, passed the Barren Islands about eight, and at noon Cape St. Hermogenes bore south-south-east, eight leagues distant. They intended to go tlirough the passage between the island of that name and the main land ; but the wind soon after failed, and they had baffling airs from the east- ward ; so that the commodore abandoned the design of carrying the ships through that passage. At this time they saw several columns of smoke on the conti- nent, northward of the passage ; which were probably meant as '/ 1 .'"'.i' ■Mi hH cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. signals to attract them thither. The land forms a bay here, a low, rocky island lying off the north-west point of it. Some other islands of a similar appearance are scattered along the coast between this place and Pohit Banks. About eight in the evening, St. Hermogenes extended from south half east to south-south-east ; and the rocks bore south. east, distant three miles. Here they had forty fathoms' water, and catched several halibut with hooks and lines. Thev passed the rocks, and bore up to the southward about midnight; and, on the 7th, at noon, St. Hermogenes bore north, at the distance of four leagues. The southernmost point of the main land lay north half west, five leagues distant. ^ The latitude of tliis promontory is 58 deg. 15 min. and its longitude 207 deg. 24 mm. It was named after the day. Cape Whitsunday; and a large bay, to the west of it, was called Whitsuntide Bay. The wind, which had been at north-east, shifted to the south- ward about two in the afternoon. The weather was gloomy and the air cold. At midnight they stood in for the land, and at seven o'clock of the morning ot the eighth, they were within four miles of it, and less than two miles from some sunken rocks, bearing west-south-west. Here thev anchored in thirty-live fathoms' water. In standing in for this coast, they passed the mouth of Whitsuntide Bay, and perceived land all around the bottom of it ; therefore the land must either be connected, or the points lock in behind each other ; the former conjecture appears to be the most probable. There are some small islands to the west of the bay. To the southward the sea- coast is low, with projecting, rocky points, having small inlets between them. Upon the coast there was no wood, and but little snow ; but the mountains at some distance inland, were wholly covered with snow. They were now in the latitude of 57 deg. 52i min. The land here forming a point, it was named Cape Greville. Its latitude is 57 deg. 33 min. and its longitude 209 deg. 15 mit. It is fifteen leagues distant from St. Hermogenes. The 9th, 10th, and 11th, they had constant mistv weather, with drizzling rain, so that they seldom had a sight of the coast; they had a gentle breeze of wind^ and the air was raw and cold. They continued to ply up the coast, making boards of six or eight leagues each. In the evening of the 12th, the fog clearing up, they saw the land about twelve leagues distant, bearing west ; and they stood in for it early the next morning. At noon, they were within three miles of it ; an elevated point, which was named Cape Barnabas, ia the latitude of 57 deg. 13 min., bore north-nortli-east, at the distance of about ten miles. Thejr could not see the north-east extreme for the haze, but the point to the southward had an elevated summit, which terminated in two round hills, and was therefore called Two-headed Point. This part of the coast, iii cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. 895 bay here, a of it. Some ;d along the tended from s bore south* horns' water, ^rhey passed dnight; and, t the distance main land lay min. and its he day, Cape ', was called [ to the south- s gloomy and land, and at ;re wdthin four lunken rocks, in thirty-five ley passed the ill around the nected, or the cture appears islands to the is low, with itween them, ow ; but the iovered with i4 min. The reville. Its 15 mit. It Istv weather, |oi the coast; Eiw and cold. rds of six or Ihey saw the n they stood [within three le Barnabas, 1-east, at the le north-east lard had an ^Is, and was le coast, ill which are several small bays, is composed of high hills and deep vallies. They could sometimes perceive the tops of other hills, beyond those which form the coast, which had a very barren appearance, though but little encumbered with snow. Not a tree or bush was to be seen upon it, and the land, in genera], bad a brownish hue. They continued to ply to the south-west- by- west, and at six in the evening, being mid-way between Cape Barnabas, and iVo-headed Point, two leagues from the shore, they had sixty- two fathoms' water. Here, a low point of land was observed, bearing south 69 deg. west. On the 14th, at noon, they were in latitude 66 deg. 49 min. The land seen the preceding evening, now appeared like two islands. They were up with the southern- most part of this isknd the next morning, and perceived it to be an island, which was named Trinity Island. Its greater extent, in the direction of east and west, is about six leagues. It has naked, elevated land at each end, and is low towards the middle. Its latitude is 66 deg. 36 min., and its longitude 206 deg. It is distant about three leagues from the continent, between which rocks and islands are interspersed. There seems, nevertheless, to he good passage and safe anchorage. Tbey, at first, ima- gined that this was Behring's Foggy Island, but its situation is not agreeable to his chart. At eight in the evening, they were within a league of the small islands above-mentioned. The westernmost point of the con- tinent, now in view, they called Cape Trinity, it being a low point facing Cape Trinity Island. In this situation, they stood over for the island, intending to work between it and the main. In standing over, they met two men in a canoe, paddling from thence to the main; instead of approaching the ships, they seemed carefully to avoid them. The wind inclining to the south, they expected it would soon be at south-east. Knowing, from experience, that a south- easterly wind, was here generally accompanied with a thick fog, tbey were afraid to venture between the island and the continent, lest they should not be able to accomplish the pas- sage before night, or before the thick weather came on, when tiiey should be under the necessity of anchoring, and lose the advantage of a fair wind. Induced by these reasons, they stretched out to sea, and passed two or three rocky islets, near the east of Trinity Island. Having weathered the island, they tacked about four in the afternoon, and steered west, southerly, with a gale at south-south-east ; which veered to the south-east about midnight, and was attended with misty, rainy weather. Tbey expected from the course they steered during the night, to fall in w'th the continent in the morning, and would doubtless have seen it, if the weatlier had been clear. No land appearing at noon, and the gale increasing with a thick fog and rain, they steered west-north-west, under such sail as they could easily i.H-l 396 cook's third voyage, 1776—1780. ' Hi , if! ?'■ haul to the wind with ; bein^ fully sensible of the daniorer, of run- ning before a strong gale in a thick fog, in the vicinity of an unknown coast. It waa, however, necessary to run tome risk, when the wind favoured them ; for clear weather they h&rd found, was generally accompanied with westerly winds. About three in the afternoon, land was perceived through the fog, bearing north-west, about three miles dnstant. Upon this they immediately hauled up south, close to the wind. The two courses were soon after split, so that they had others to bring to the yards ; and several others of the sails received considerable damage. The gale abated, and the weather cleared up about nine, when they again saw the coast, about the distance of five leasrues. The depth was a hundred fathoms' water. The fog returned soon after, and was dispersed about four o'clock the next morning ; when they found themselves in s( me degree surrounded by land ; the continent, or that which they supposed to be the continent, extending from south-west to north-east^ and some elevated land, bearing south-east about nine leagues distant. The extremitv of the main, at the north- east, was the same point of land tiiat they had fallen in with during the fog ; it was named Foggy Gape, and lies in the lati- tude of 66 deg. 81 min. Having had but little wind all-night, a breeze now sprung i^q at north-west ; with this they stood to the southward, in ordev to make the land plainer that was seen in that direction. Abort nine o'clock they discovered it to be an island, nine leagues in circumference in the latitude of 66 deg. 10 min., and the longi- tude of 202 deg. 46 min. In the chart, it is named Foggy Island ; it being reasonable to suppose, from its situation, that it is the island on which Behring bestowed the same appellation. Three or four islands bore north-by-west ; a point, witn three or four pinnacle rocks upon it, bore north-west-by-west, called Pinnacle Point, and a cluster of islets, south-south-east, about nine leagues from the coast. In the afternoon had little wind, and the progress was inconsiderable. On Wednesday the 17th, they had gentle breezes between west and north-west ; the weather was perfectly clear, and the air dry and sharp. At noon, the continent extended from south- west to north-by-east ; the nearest part seven or eight leagues distant ; a group of islands lying to the soutb-west, about the the same distance from the continent. The weather was clear and pleasant on the 1 8th, and it was calm great part of the day. There is probably, a continuation of the continent, between Foggy Cape and Trinity Island, which the thick weather prevented tnem from seeing. The commodore having occasion to send a boat to the Dis- covery, one of the people in her shot a most beautiful bird, of the hawk kind. It was smaller than a duck, and the colour black, except that the forepart of the head was white ; behind cook's third voyage, 1776—1780. 397 each eye an elegant vellowish white crest arose ; the bill Hnd I'eet were red. The first they saw of these birds, was to the southward of Cape Hermogeiies, after which they saw them daily, and sometimes in la^ge flocks, as well as most of the sea birds, that are usiiuily met with in the northern oceans, such as shags, gulls, piifhns, sheer-waters, ducks, geese, and swans; and they seldom passed a day without seeing seals, whales, and other large fish. In the afternoon, they got a light breeze southerly, and steered west for the channel, between the island?, and the eon. tinent. At day-break the next morning, the^ wei* not far from it, and perceived several other islands, with those they had already seen, of various dimensions. But, between these islands, and those thev had seen before, there appeared to be a clear clianuel, for which they steered ; and at noon, their latitude was 55 deg. 18 min., in the narrowest part of the channel. Qf this ^rroup of islands, the largest was now upon the left, and is called Kodiak, as they were afterwards informed. 1 he commo- dore did not bestow a name upon any of the others, though he supposed them to be the same that Behring has named Schu- magin's Islands.''' Islands appeared to the southward, as far as an island could be seen. 1 hey begin in the longitude of 200 deg. 15 min. east^ and extend about two degrees to the west- ward. Most of these islands are tolerably high, but very barren and rugged, exhibiting very romantic appearances, and abounding with rocks and cliffs. There are several snug bays and coves about them, and some streams of fresh water descend from the ele- vated parts, but not a tree or bush was to be seen growing on the land. A good deal of snow still lay on many of them, and those parts of the continent, which appeared between the inner- most islands, were quite covered with it. By four o'clock in the afternoon, the]^ had passed all the islands to the southward of them, and found thirty fathoms' water in the channel, and soon after they had got through it, the Discovery, which was two miles astern, fired three guns, and brought to, ir^nking a signal to speak with them. Captain Cook was mucii alarmed at this ; for, as no apparent danger had been observed in the channel, he was apprehensive that the Discovery had sprung a leak, or met with s jme similar accident. A boat was immediately sent to ijer, vhich in a short time returned with Captain Gierke. He informed the commodore, tiiat some natives, in three or four canoes, having followed the ship for some time, at last got under his stern, one of whom made many signs, taking off his cap, and bowing in the Euro- Eean manner. A rope being handed down from the ship, to this c fastened a thin wooden box, and, after he had made some « Decouvertes des Russes, par MuUer, p. 262, 277. ", r 1 1 i .J: li 398 COOK S THIRD VOYAGE, 177C — 1780. 11 more gesticulations, the canoes dropped aste ■*), and left the Discovery. It was not imagined that the box contained any thing, till after the canoes had departed, when it was accidentally opened, and found to contain a piece of paper, carefully folded up, on which some writing appeared, wlnoli they supposed to be in the Russian language. To this paper was prefixed the date of 1778, and in the bodv of it there was a reference to the year 1776. Though unable to decipher the alphabet of the writer, Captain Cook was convinced, by his numerals, that others liad E receded him, in visiting these dreary regions. Indeed, the ope of meeting with some of the Russian traders, could not but be highly satisfactory, to those who had been so long con- versant with the savages of the Pacific Ocean, and of the con- tfnent of North America. A( first Captain Gierke imagined, that some Russians had been shipwrecked here, and that, seeing their ships, these un- fortunate persons were induced thus to inform tnem of their situation. Deeply impressed with sentiments of humanity on this occasion, he was in hopes the Resolution would have stopped till they had time to join them, but no such idea occurred to Captain Cooke. If this had really been the case, he supposed that the first step such shipwrecked persons would have taken, in order to secure relief, would have been to send some of their people off to the ships in the canoes. He therefore, rather thought, th'ut the paper contained a note of information, left by some Russian trader, who had lately visited these islands, to be delivered to any of his countrymen who should arrive, and that the natives, supposing our voyagers to be Russians, had brouijht off the note. Convinced of this, he inquired no further into the matter, but made sail, and steered to the westward. They ran all night with a gentle breeze at north-east, and the next morning, at two, some breakers were seen within, at the distance of two miles ; others were soon after seen a-head, and they were innumerable on the larboard bow, and also between the ships and the land. By holding a south course, 1 Jiese breake they with difficult" , cleared them. breakers were occa- sioned by rocks, many of which were above water ; they are very dangerous, and extend seven leagues from land. They got on their outside about noon, wiien the latitude was 54 deg. 44 min., and their longitude 198 deg. The nearest land, was an elevated bluff point, and was named Rock Point ; it bore north, seven or eight leagues distant ; the westernmost part of the main, bore north-west ; and a round hill, called Halibut Head, bore south-west, distant ajout thirteen leagues. At noon, on the 21st, they made but little progress, having only faint rt inds and calms. Halibut Head, then bon north 24 deg. west, and the island on which it is, called Halibut Island, extended from north-by-east to north-west. This island is seven cook's third voyage, 1776—1780. 399 leagues ill circumference, and, except the head, is very h)w and barren ; several small islands are near it, betAveen which and the main, there appears to be a passage of" the breadth of two or three leagues. The ships were kept at such a distance from the continent, by the rocks and breakers, that Captain Cook had a very distant view of the coast between Halibut Island and Rock Point ; but, could perceive the main land covered with snow, and particularly some hills, whose elevated tops, towered above the clouds, to a most stupendous height. A volcano was seen, on the most south- westerly of these hills, which perpetually threw up inmiense columns of black smoke ; it is at no great distance from the coast, and is in the latitude of 54 deg. 48 min., and the longitude of 195 deg. 45 min. Its figure is a complete cone, and the vol- cano is at the summit ol it ; remarkable as it may appear, the wind, at the height to which the smoke of the volcano rose, often moved in an opposite direction to what it did at sea, even in a fresh gale. Having three hours calm in the afternoon, upwards of a hundred halibuts were caught by our people, some of which weighed upwards of a hundred pounds, and none of them less than twenty. They were highly acceptable ; they fished in thirty-five fathoms' water, about four miles distant from the shore, during which time they were visited by a man in a small canoe, who came from the large island. When he approached (he ship, he uncovered his head and bowed, as the other had doi)e who had visited the Discovery the preceding day. That the Russians had some communications with these peo- ple was evident, not only from their politeness, but from the written paper already mentioned. They had now additional proof of it, for the new visitor had on a pair of green cloth breeches, and a jacket of black cloth, under the frock of his own (country. He had with him a grey fox-skin, and some fishing implements; also a bladder, in which was some liquid, that they supposed to be oil : for he opened it, drank a mouthful, and then closed it up again. His canoe was smaller than those they had seen before, though of the same construction; Uke those who had visited the Discovery, he used the double-bladed paddle. His features resembled those of Prince William's Sound, but he was per- fectly free from any kind of paint ; and his lip had been perfo- rated in an oblique direction, though, at that time, he had not any ornament in it. Many of the word.^, so frequently used by the previous visitors in the Sound, were repeated to him, but he did not appear to understand any of them, owing either io his ignorance of the dialect, or their faulty pronunciation. The weather was most cloudy and hazj, lill the afternoon of the 2*2nd, when the wind shifted to the south-east, attended, as usual, with thick rainy weather. Before the fog, they saw no iK \4 ult, 400 cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780, 1 1::'^. liO !-f. part of the main land, except the volcano, and a neighbouring mountain, and steered west till seven, when, fearing they might fall in with the land in thick weather, they hauled to the south- ward, till two the next morning, and then bore away to the west. Their progress was but trifling, having but little wind, and that variable ; at five o'clock in tlie afternoon, they had au interval of sun-shine, when they saw land, bearing north 59 deg. west. On the 24th, at six in the morning, they saw the continent, and at nine it extended from north-east-by-east to south-west-by- west; the nearest part four leagues distant. The land to the south-west consisted of islands, being what they had seen the preceding night. In the evening, being about the distance of four leagues from the shore, and naving little wind, they threw out their hooks and lines, but caught only two or three little cod. They got an easterly breeze the next morning, and, with it, what was very uncommon, clear weather ; insomuch, that they clearly saw the volcano, the other mountains, and all the main land under them. It extended froni north-east-by-north, to north-west-half-west. Between this point and the islands a large opening appeared, for which they steered, till land was seen beyond it; and, though they did not perceive that tliis land joined the continent, a passage through the opening was very doubtful, as well as whether the land to the south-west was insular or continental. Unwilling to trust too much to appear- ances, they therefore steered to the southward, when, naving {;ot without all the land in sight, they steered west, the islands ying in that direction. Three of them all of a good height, had been passed by eight o'clock; more were now seen to the westward. In the after- noon, the weather became gloomy, and afterwards turned to a mist, the wind blowing fresh at ei\st. They therefore hauled to the wind to the southward till day-break, and then proceeded on their course to the west. They derived but little advantage from day-light, the weather being so thick, that they could not discover objects at the dis- tance of a hundred yards, but, as the wind was moderate, they ventured to run. About half au hour after four, the sound of breakers alarmed them on the larboard-bow ; they lound twentv- eight fathoms' water, and then twenty-five. They brought the ship to, and anchored in the last depth, the commodore ordering the Discovery, which was not far distant, to anchor also. Some hours after, the fog being a little dispersed, they dis- covered the imminent danger they had escaped. They were three quarters of a mile from the north-east side of an island ; two elevated rocks were about half a league from them, and from each other. Several breakers also appeared about them ; and yet. Providence had safely conducted the ships through in the cook's third voyage, 1776—1780. 401 dark, between these rocks, which they should not have attempted to have done in a clear day, and to so commodious an anchoriiig- piace. Being so near land. Captain Cook ordered a boat ashore to examine what it produced. When she returned in the after- noon, the officer who commanded her said he saw some grass, and other small plants, one of which had the appearance of purslain, but the islands produced neither trees nor shrubs. The wind blew fresh at south, in the night, but in the morning was more moderate, and the fog in a great degree dispersed. They weighed at seven o'clock, and steered between the island near which they had anchored, and a small one not far from it. ITie breadth of the channel does not exceed a mile, and the wind failed before they could pass through it ; they were there- fore obliged to anchor, which they did m thirty-four fathoms' water. Land now presented itself in every direction. - That to the south extended, in a ridge of mountains, to the south-west, which they afterwards found to be an island called Oonalashka. Between this island and the land to the north, which was supposed to be a group of islands, tliere appeared to be a channel in a north-west direction. On a point west from the ship at the distance of three quarters of a mile, they perceived several natives and their habitations. To this place they saw two whales towed in, which it was supposed had just been killed. A few of the inhabitants occasionally came oif to the ships, and engaged in a little tralfic with our people, but never continued with, them above a quarter of an hour at a time. They seemed remarkably shy, though it could readily be discovered they were not unacquainted with vessels similar, in some degree to theirs. Their manner displayed a degree of politeness, which had never been experienced among any of the savage tribes. About one in the afternoon, being favoured with a light breeze, and the tide of flood, they weighed, and proceeded to the chan- nel last mentioned, expecting, when they had passed through, either to find the land tend away to the northward, or that they should discover a passage out to sea to the west. They did not suppose themselves to be in an inlet of the continent, but among islands, and were right in their conjectures. Soon after they got under sail the wind veered to the north, and fhey were obliged to ply. The depth of v/aier was from forty to twenty -seven fathoms. In the evening, the ebb made it necessary to ancnor within three leagues of the last station. They weighed the next morning at day-break, and were wafted up tne passage bv a light breeze at south ; after which they had variable airs in all directions. There was, however, a rapid tide in their favour, and the Resolution got through before the ebb made. The Discovery was not equally fortunate, for she was carried back, got into the race, and found a difficulty in getting clear of it. hi :.{' '1 '^ ;-'i • ..i » " t' 5-' ■ '-■ '■■J ' >*- ■' : -w ' >w I J * fl '.''I ■ n' ■' > S '. ' L^ i ; '•ml > :-i M-WMi '^'llffil 1 ■■ riwm 40i cook's THlilD VOYAGE, 1776 — 1780. Being now through the channel they found the land, on one side tending west and south-west, and that on the other side to north. This encouraged them to hope tliat the continent had taken a new direction in their favour. Being short of water, and expecting to be driven about in a r?)pid tide, without wind snffi. cient to govern the ship, they stood for a harbour on the south side of the passage, but were driven beyond it ; and, that they might not be forced back through the passage, anchored near the southern shore, in twenty-eight fathoms' water, and out of the reach of the strong tide, thougli even here it ran five knots and a half in the hour. \^^hile they lay here they were visited by several of the natives, each in a canoe. They bartered some fishing implements for tobacco. A young man among them overset his canoe while he was alongside ol our bouts. He was caught hold of by one of our people, but the canoe drifted, and being taken up by another was carried ashore. In consequence of this accident the youth was obliged to come into the ship, where he was invited into the cabin, and readily accepted the invitation, without any surprise or embarrassment. He had an upper garment resembling a shirt, made of the gut of a whale, or some other large sea^animal. Under this he had another of the same form, made of the skins of birds with the feathers on, curiously sewed together, the feathered side placed next the skin. It was patched with several pieces of silk stuff, and his cap was embellished with glass beads. His clothet? being wet, our men furnished, him with some of their own, which he put on with as much readiness as any person could have done. From the behaviour of this youth, and that of several others, it evidently appeared, that these people were no strangers to Europeans, and to many of their customs. Some- thing in our ships, however, greatly excited their curiosity, for such as had not canoes to bring them off, assembled on the neighbouring hills to have a view of them. At low water they towed the ship into the harbour, where they anchored in nine fathoms' water, the Discovery arriving soon after. A boat was sent to draw the seine, but our men caught only a few trout and some other small fish. They had not long anchored before a native of the island brought another note on board, similar to that which had been given to Captain Clerke. He presented it to Captain Cook, but as it was written in the Kussian language, neither he, nor any of the gentlemen could read it. As it could not be of any use to our voyagers, and might probably be of consequence to others, the commodore re- turned it to the bearer, accompanied with a few presents, for which he expressed his thanks, by making several low bows as he retired. On the 29th they saw along the shore a group of the natives of both sexes, seated on the grass, partaking of a repast of raw fish, which they seemed to relish exceedingly. Ihey were detained by thick fogs and a contrary wind till the 2nd of COOK'S T„m„ VOVAOE, ,?r6-,r«o July, diiring which time th^v . • . '•''•'' Iiiated ou the north sirf^ ^f^^"?""""'* by the natlv. fer,j^eii''r>"- """"'north"' 'i; 't t^^^ R-e :S£il^""fct^%;.S^^^^^^^^^ hup of islands that t^hld fX?' ^"".^V""^^^^" of the sam" brecedmg month. Thaf Jlw l • • ^" ^^th on the Qr^fU J i?" H constitutes h^ «A ***''^*^ situated before ^ from fifteen to £ * f^l^^'^y eight o'cIoc\ irthHi „T4^" 7^^,f distant S the shor^T^ «on.e tme in sight borefon^J^^^^. l"«"ntain, which haHK ^^ twenty-one lesisue^ S '^""^n-ea^t by east at7/.i^- . ^^®" the same cha n and J,T/^ ?^^^'' '"ounSs foi^.^^^^^nce «f The coast extended a«/^'^^"^ ^^'^^^nt. WeasTi"! " P^^t of seemed to terSatP in ^^"^ ^' »«rth-east half "L .i?^^-,"^''^^. expected, thlutZZ UT' ^^^«"^ ^'ich it waJt.'"^/''^ '' longaftenvards thev «.!?i ^,"*«''^ easterly direrTron T"* ""^ fsciriver,whirh^??*^ ^***^^^-east-half-east rIj? j .,^"^ one fJiat very Lp ?h! TH' f^^ '"ade a signal fi.r '«»*.' *'^*«''^ ^^at iathornr ' tJ *^ Discovery's sounding? ^^i ^^^^ had Jess i '^T 2 a head ,n sounding. HavinJ 406 cook's third voyage, 1776—1780 It passed over the south-end of the shoal, in six fathoms' water, they afterwards got into thirteen and fifteen ; in which last depth they anchored at half-past eight ; some part of the chain of mountain'b on the south-east shore being in sight, and bearing south-east half south; and the westernmost land on the other shore bearing north-west. In the course of this day, they descried high land, which bore north 60 deg. west, and which they supposed to be about twelve leagues distant. Weighed anchor the next morning, at two o'clock, with a gentle breeze at south-west by west, and plied to windward till nine ; when judging the flood tide to be now against them., they anchored in twenty-four fathoms' water. At one in the afternoon the fog, which had this morning prevailed, dispersing, and the tide making in their favour, weighed again, and plied to the south-westward. Towards the evening, the wind was variable, and there was sonae thunder. They had heard none before, from the time of their arrival on the coast; and that which they now heard was at a great distance. The wind setting again in the south-west quarter, in the morning of Sunday, the 12th, they steered a north-west course, and, at ten o'clock, saw the continent. At noon, it extended north-east by north, to north-north-west a quarter west ; and an elevated hill bore north-north-west, ten leagues distant. This was found to be an island, to which, from its figure. Captain Cook gave the name of Round Island. It lies in the latitude of 58 deg. 37 min. north, and in the longitude of 30 de^. 6 min. east, and is seven miles from the continent. At nine in the evening, having steered n northerly course to within three leagues of the shore, they tacked in fourteen fathoms' water, the extremities of the coast bearing east-south-east half east, and west. The wind veering to the north-west, enabled them to stretch along the shore till two the next morning, v/hen they suddenly got into six fathoms' water, being then six miles from the land. After they had edged off a little, their depth of water gradually in- creased; and, at twelve o'clock, their soundings were twenty fathoms. Round Island, at this time, bore north, 5 deg. east; and the vvestern extremity of the coast north 16 deg. west, seven leagues distant. It is an elevated point, to which the appellation of Calm Point was given, from their having calm weather while they were off it. To the north-west of Round Island, are two or three hillocks, which had an insular appearance ; and perhaps they may be islands, for they had but a distant prospect of the coast in this place. They advanced but slowly on the 14th and 15th, having little wind, and, at times, a very thick fog. The soundings were from twenty-six to fourteen fathoms ; and they had pretty good suc- cess in fishing, for they caught plenty of cod, and some flat fish. On Thursday the 16th, at five in the morning, the fog clearing up, they found themselves nearer the shore than they expected. Calm Point bore north 72 deg. east, and a point, eight leagues cook's TfllRD VOYAGE, 1776 — 1780. 407 from it, in a westerly direction, bore north 3 deg. east, only tliree milca distant. Between these two points, the coast forms a bay, in some parts of which the land was hardly visible from the mast-head. There is another bay on the north-western side of the last-mentioned pomt, between it and a high promontory, which now bore north 36 deg. west, at the distance of sixteen miles. About nine o'clock. Captain Cook dispatched Lieutenant Williamson to this promontory, with orders to go ashore, and observe what direction the coast took bevond it, and what was the produce of the country; which, when viewed from the ships, had but a steril aspect. They here found the flood-tide setting strongly to the north-west, along the coast. At twelve o'clocK it was high-water, and they anchored in twenty-four fathoms' water, at the distance of twelve miles from the shore. At five in the afternoon, the tide making in their favour, they weighed, and drove with it, there being no wind. Mr. Williamson, at his return, reported, that he had landed the point, and, having ascended the highest hill, found, that on the most distant part of the coast in sight bore nearly north. He took possession of the country in the name of his Britannic Majesty, and left on the hill a bottle, containing a paper, on which the names of the ships, and of tneir commanders, and the date of the discovery were inscribed. The promontory, which he named Cape Newenham, is a rocky point of considerable height, situated in the longitude of 197 deg. 36 min. east, and in the latitude of 58 deg. 42 min. north. Over, or within it, two lofty hills rise one behind the other ; of which the innermost, or easternmost, is the highest. The country, as far as Mr. Wil- liamson could see, produces neither tree nor shrub. The hills are naked; but, on the lower grounds, grew ^rass and plants of various kinds, very few of which were at this tune in flower. He saw no other animal but a doe and fawn ; and a dead sea-horse or cow upon the beach. Of the latter animal they had lately seen a great many. As tlie coast takes a northerly direction from Cape Newenham, that cape is the northern boundary of the extensive bay and gulph, lying before the river Briitol, which, in honour of the admiral Earl of Bristol, received from the commodore the deno- mination of Bristol Ba^ir. Cape Ooneemak forms the southern limit of this bay ; and is eighty-two leagues distant, in the di- rection of south-south-vyest, from Cape Newenham. Alight breeze springing up about eight o'clock in the evening, and settling at south-south-east, the ships steered to the north- west, and north-north-west, round Cape Newenham ; which, at twelve the following day, vvas four leagues distant, bearing south by east. Their soun^lings, at this time, were seventeen fathoms ; the most advanced land towards the north bore north 30 deg. east; and the nearest part of the coast was three leagues and a half distant. During the whole afternoon^ there was but little J: W ''i 40« cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780 had only wind ; so that, by ten o'clock, in the evening, they proceeded three leagues on a northerly course. They steered north by west till eight o'clock the next morn. ing, (Saturday, the 18th], when the depth of water suddenly! decreasing to seven and hve fathoms, they brought to, till a boat from each of the ships was sent a-head to sound, and then steered to the north-east. At noon, they had deepened the water to seventeen fathoms. Cape Newenham was now eleven or twelve leagues distant, bearing south nine deg. east; tk| north-east extremity of the land in sight bore north 66 deg. east; and the distance of the nearest shore was four or five leagues, | The present latitude .fas 59 deg. 16 min. north. Between this latitude and Cape Newenham, the coast is composed of low I land and hills, and seemed to form several bays. Before one o'clock, the boats a-head made the signal of shoal I water ; they had, indeed, only two fathoms, and, at the same I time, the ships were in six fathoms' water. By hauling move to the north, they continued nearly in the same depth till between five and six o'clock, when the boats finding less and less water, Captain Cook made the signal to the Discovery, which was then a-head, to cast anchor, and both ships soon came to. In bring- ing up the Resolution, 1 cable parted at the clinch, sotha>^| they were obliged to make use of the other anchor, and rode ii six fathoms' water, over a bottom of sand, at the distance of four or five leagues from the continent ; Cape Newenham bearing south, sixteen or seventeen leagues distant. The farthest hilb they could see to the north, bore north-east by east ; but thei« was low land stretching out from the more elevated land, as far as north-by-east. Without this was a shoal of stones and sand, that was dry at half ebb. The two masters having been sent, each in a boat, to sound between the shoal and the coast, re- portC'l, on their return, that there was a channel, in which the soundings were six and seven fathoms, but that it was rather narrow and intricate. It was attempted at low water to get a hawser round the lost anchor, but tney did not succeed then; however, being resolved not to leave it behind, whilst there was a probability of recovering it, they persevered in their endea- vours, and at last succeeded in the evening of the 20th. While thus occupied, the commodore ordered Captain Gierke to dis- patch his master in a boat, to search for a passage in a south- west direction. He accordingly did so, but no channel was to be found in that quarter ; nor did it appear that there was any other way to get clear of the shoals, than by returning by the same track in which they had entered. For, though bv follow- ing the channel they were now in, they might perhaps have got farther down the coast ; and though possibly this channel might have carried them at last to the northward, clear of the shoals, yet the attempt would have been attended with extreme hazard; and in case of ill success, there would have been a considerable cook's third voyage, 1776—1780. 401) loss of time that they could not conveniently spare. These rea- sons induced the commodore to return by the way which had brought them in, and thus avoid the shoals. The longitude oi' the ships' present station, by lunar observa- tions, was 197 deg. 45 min. and 48 sec. east, and the latitude 59 deg. 37 min. and 30 sec. north. The most northern part of the coast that could be discerned from this station, was sup- posed to lie in the latitude of 60 deg. It formed to appearance, a low point, which received the name of Shoal Ness ; the tide of Hood sets to the north, and the ebb to the south : it rises and falls five or six feet upon a perpendicular; and it is calculated to be high water at eight o'clock, on the full and change days. At three in the morning of the 21st, thev weigheti anchor with a gentle breeze at north-north-west, ancl steered back to the south, having three boats a-head employed in sounding. Not- withstanding tliis precaution, they met with greater difiiculty in returning than they had found in advancing ; and were at last ohliged to anchor, to avoid the danger of running upon a shoal lliat l>ad only a depth of five feet. While they lay here, twenty- seven Americans, each in a separate canoe, came off to the ships, 1 which they approached with great caution; as they advanced, tjiey hallooed and opened their arms ; thereby intimating as was understood, their pacific intentions. Some of them, at last, came near enough to receive a few trifling articles, which were throvvn I to them. This encouraged the rest of them to venture alongside ; I and a traffic quickly commenced between them and our people, who got wooden vessels, bows, darts, arrows, dresses of skins, &c. in exchange for which the natives accepted whatever was offered them. They appeared to be the sanie sort of people with those that had been met with all along this coast, and wore in their lips and noses the same kind of ornaments, but were not so well clothed, and were far more dirty. They seemed to be wholly unacquainted with any civilized nation, were ignorant of tlie use of tobacco, nor did our men observe in their possession any foreign article, unless a knife may be considered as such. This, indeed, was only a piece of common iron fitted in a wooden handle, so as to answer the purpose of a knife ; they, however, knew the use and value of this instrument so well, that it seemed to be almost the only article they were desirous of. The hair of most of them was shaved, or cut short off, leaving only a few locks on one side or behind; as a covering for their head, they wore a hood of skins, and a bonnet, which appeared to be of wood. One part of their dress, which was procured from them, was a kind of a girdle, very neatly made of skin, with trappings depending from it, and passing betwixt the thighs, so as to conceal the adjacent parts. From the use of this girdle it is probable that they sometimes go naked, even in this high horthern latitude ; for it can scarcely be supposed that they wear it under their other clothing. Their canoes were made of skins. WK' J'.'* 4IU cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. 'i '■■ rf '*( ;iii •K 1^ I ;, like those lutely seen, but they were bruader, and the Itole wherein the person sits was wider than in any of those they liad before met with. The boats returning from sounding, seeineii to alarm them, so that they all departed sooner than perliap, tiiey otherwise would have done. The ships did not get clear of the shoals before the evening ol Wednesday, the 2:ind ; and then they durst not venture to steer towards tiie west during the night, but spent it off Cape Neweit ham ; and at day-break, on the 33rd, tney stood to the north. I westward, the Discovery being ordered to lead. Before they had run two leagues, the soundings decreased to six fathoms, Being apprehensive, that if they continued this course, tliey should meet with less and less water, they hauled to the south, with a fresh, easterly breeze. This course gradually broueht tliem into eighteen fathoms' water, upon which thev ventured to steer a little westerly, and afterwards due west, when at length they found twenty-six fathoms. At noon, on the 24th, the longj. tude, by observation, was 194 deg. 23 min. east, and latitude 58 deg. 7 min. north. About three leagues to the west of this situation, the soundings were twenty-eight fathoms, and they | then steered west-north-west, the depth of water gradually in- creasing to thirty-four fathoms ; they should have steered more northerly, but the wind having veered in that direction prevented them. , In the evening of Saturday the 25th, having but little wiiid, | and an exceedingly thick fog, they let go the anchors in thirty fathoms, the longitude bein^ at that time, 191 deg. 37 min. east, and latitude 58 deg. 29 mm. north. At six o'clock the next I morning, the weather clearing up a little, they weighed, and, with a gentle breeze at east, steered to tlie northward, the depth of water being from twenty-five to twenty-eight fathoms. Alter running nine leagues upon this course, the wind again veered to the north, so that the ships were obliged ^ to steer more Westerly. The weather, for the most part, continued foggy till toward noon on the 28th, when they had clear sunshine i'or a I few hours, during which the officers made several lunar obser- vations. The mean result of these, reduced to noon, at which | time the latitude was 59 deg. 55 min. north, gave 190 de^. 6 min. east longitude, and the time-keeper gave 189 deg. 59 mm. Continuing their westerly course, they discovered land at four I in the morning of the 29tn, bearing north-west-by-west, distant six leagues. They stood toward it till half-past ten, when they tacked in twenty-four fathoms, being then a league from the I land, which bore north-north-west : it was the south-east extre- mity, and formed a perpendicular cliff of great height, on wliichl account Captain Cook gave it the name of Point Upright. It I stands in the longitude of 187 deg. 30 min. east, and in thel latitude of 60 deg. 17 min. north. More land was seen to thel westward of this point, and, at a clear interval, they discerned I cook's third voyage, 177fi— 1780. 411 another portion of high land, bearing west by south, which seemed to be perfectly separated from the other. They here observed an amazing number of birds, such as guillemots, liawks, &c. There were baflling light winds all the afternoon, so that the ships made but little progress, and the weather was not snf- liciently clear to enable our voyagers to determine the extent of the land before them. It was conjectured to be one of the many islands laid down in Mr. Staehlin's map of the New Northern Archipelago, and they every moment expected to descry more of tliem. On Sunday, the 2nd of August, variable light winds, with showers of rain, prevailed the whole day. In the morning of the 3rd, the wind settled in the south-east quarter, they resumed tJjeir northward course. At twelve o'clock the soundings were sixteen fathoms : the latitude was 62 deg. 34 min. north, and longitude 192 deg. east. Between three and four o'clock this afternoon, Mr. Anderson, surgeon of the Resolution, expired, after he had lingered under a consumption for upwards ot a twelve month. He was a sen- sible, inteUi^ent young man, an agreeable companion, well skilled in his own profession, and had acquired considerable knowledge in other branches of science. Our readers will doubtless have observed, how useful an assistant he had proved in the course of the voyage ; and if his life had been prolonged to a later period, the public might have received from him many valuable communications, respecting the natural history ol' the different places visited by our people. Soon after ho had breathed his last, land was discovered to the westward, at the distance of twelve leagues. It was supposed to be an island, and tlie commodore, to perpetuate the memory of the deceased, for whom he liad a particidar esteem, distinguished it by the name of Anderson's Island. The following day Mr. Law, surgeon of the Discovery, was removed into the Resolution, and Mr. Samuel, the surgeon's first mate of the Resolution, was ap- pointed to succeed Mr. Law as surgeon of the Discovery. On Wednesday the Bth, at ten o'clock in the morning, they ran down, and anchored between the island and the continent in seven fathoms. Soon after Captain Cook, accompanied by Mr. King, and some other officers, landed upon the island. He hoped to liave had from it a prospect of the coast and sea to the westward ; but, in that direction, the fog was so thick, that the view was not more extensive than it was from their ships. The coast of the continent seemed to take a turn to the north, at a low point, named Point Rodney, which bore from the island north-west-half west, at the distance of three or fo\ir leagues; but the high land, which took a more northerly directiin, was perceived at a much greater distance. The latitude of this island is 64 deg. 30 min. north, and its T 5 I HI 41-2 COOK'b THIRD VOYAGE, 1776 — 1780. \i ■ e;-. W^ r '^ << '.; longitude is 193 deg. 57 min. east. It is abovit twelve miles in circumference. The surface of the ground is composed chiefly of large loose stones, that are in many places covered with mos!) and other vegetables, of which there were twenty or thirty different species, and most of them in flower. But the captain saw neither tree nor shrub, either upon the island, or on the neigh- bouring continent. On a small spot near the beach where he landed, was a considerable quantity of wild purslain, long-wort, pease, &c. some of which he took on-board for boiling. He saw several plovers, and other small birds ; a fox was also seen, and he met with some decayed huts, built partly under ground. People had lately been upon the island : and it is more than probable, that they frequently visit for some purpose or other, as there was a beaten path from one end to the othei . A little way from that part of the shore where our gentlemen landed, they found a sledge, which induced Captain Cook to give the island the appellation of Sledge Island. It appeared to be such a one as the Russians in Kamtschatka make use of to convey goods from one place to another, over the snow and ice. it was about twenty mches in breadth, and ten feet in length, had a sort of rail-work on each side, and was shod with bone. Its construction was admirable, and its various parts were put together with great neatness ; some with wooden pins, but for the most part with thongs, or lashings of whale-bone, which made the captain think that it was entirely the workmanship of the natives. Weighing anchor at three o'clock in the morning of the 6th, they made sail to the north-west, with a light south- erly breeze. As they had but little wind, and that variable, they made but slow progress ; and, at eight o'clock in the even- ing, finding the ships getting into shoal- water, anchored in seven fathoms, the distance from the coast being about two leagues. Sledge Island then bore south 51 deg. east, nine or ten leagues distant. Soon after they had let go their anchors, the weather, which had been misty, cleared up, and they perceived high land, extending from north 40 deg. east to north 30 deg. west, seemingly disjoined from the coast near which they lay at anchor, which appeared to extend to the north-eastward. Being now satisfied that the whole was a continued coast, the ships tacked, and steeretl for its north-west part, near which they anchored in seventeen fathoms. The weather at present was very tiiick and rainy ; but, at four the next morning, it cleared up, and enabled them to discern the neighbouring land. A lofty steep rock, or island, bore west- by-south ; another island to the northward of it, and considerably larger, bore west-by-north ; the peaked hill before-mentioned, south-east-by- east : and the point under it, south 32 deg. east. Under this hill ii some land, extending towards the north-west, the extreme point of which was now about one league distant, bearing north-east-by-east. Over and beyond, some high land was cook's third voyage. 177G— 1780. 413 seen, which was imagined to be a continuation of the con- tinent. This point o" land, which the commodore distinguished by the naniC of Cape Prince of Wales, is the western extremity ol all America hitherto known. It stands in the longitude of 191 deg. 45 min. east, and in the latitude of 65 deg. 46 min. north. They fancied they saw some people on the coast ; and, per- haps, were not mistaken in their supposition, as some eleva- tions like stages, and others resembling huts, were seen at the same place. At day-break on Monday the 10th, they resumed a westward course for the land seen by them the preceding evening. At cl.^ven minutes after seven, i. frxtended from south 72 deg. west, to north 41 deg. east. Between the south-western extremity, and a point which bore west, six miles distant, the coast forms a spacious bay, in which \hey dropped their anchors at ten in the forenoon, about two miles from the north shore, over a gravelly bottom, at the depth of ten fathoms. While steering for this bay, they observed on the north shore a village and some people, who seemed to have been thrown into confusion, or fear, at the sight of the vessels. They could plainly perceive persons running up the country with burthens upon their backs. At this village. Captain Cook proposed to land ; and accordingly went with thr*>e armed boats, accom- panied by some of the officers. Thirty or forty men, each of whom was armed with a spontoon, a bow, and arrows, stood drawn up on an eminence near the houses ; three of them came down towards the shore, on the approach of our gentlemen, and were so polite as to pull off their caps, and make them low bows. Though this civility was returned, it did not inspire them with sufficient confidence to wait for the landing of the party ; for the instant they put i\: boats ashore, the natives retired. Captain Cook followed them alone, without any thing in his hand ; and, by signs and gestures, prevailed on them to stop, and accept some trifling presents ; in return for these, they Sfave him two fox-skins, and a couple of sea-horse's teeth. The Captain was of opinion, that they had brought these articles down with then for the purpose of presenting them to him ; and, that they would have given them to him, even if they had expected no return. The> seemed very timid and cautious ; intimating their desire, by signs, that no more of our people should be permitted to come up. On the captain's laymg his hand on the shoulder of one of them, he started back several paces ; in proportion as he advanced, tliey retreated, always in the attitude of being ready to make use of their snears ; while those on the eminence were, prepared to support them with their arroyvs. Insensibly, the captain, and two or three of his rouipanions got in amongst fhem. The distribution of a few beads, to some of them, soon jij i-.:i : "ir I li-i 414 cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. Cf !t^^ created a kind of confidence, so that they were not alarmed when the captain was joined by a few more of his people, and, in a short time, a sort of traffic was entered into. In exchange for tobacco, knives, beads, and other articles, they gave a few arrows, and some of their clothing ; but nothing that our people had to offer, could induce them to part with a spear or a bow. These they held in continual readiness, never quitting them, except at one time, when four or five persons laid theirs down, while they favoured our people with a song and a dance ; and, even then, they placed them in such a manner, that they could lay hold of them in a moment. Their arrows were pointed either with stone or bone, but very few of them had barbs ; and some of them had a round blunt point. What use these are applied to, is not known, unless it be to kill small animals without damaging the skin. Their bows, are such as they had observed on the American coast: their spontoons, or spears, were of iron or steel, and of Euro- pean or Asiatic workmanship ; and considerable pains had been taken to ornament them with carvings, and inlayings of brass, and of white metal. Those who stood with bows and arrows in their hands, had the spear slung by a leathern strap over their right shoulder. A leathern quiver, slung over their left shoulder, served to contain arrows ; and some of these quivers were ex- ceedingly beautiful, being made of red leather, on which was very neat embroidery, and other ornaments. Several other things, and particularly their clothing, indicated a degree of ingenuity, far surpassing what any one would expect to find among so northern a people. All the Americans that had been seen since their arrival on that coast, were rather low of stature, with round, chubby faces, and high cheek-bones. The people among whom our men now were, far from resembling them, had long visages, and were stout and well made ; in short, they appeared to be quite a different nation. No women, or children of either sex, were observed, lior any aged persons, except one man, whose head was bald ; and he was the only one who bore no arms ; the others seemed to be picked men, and rather under than above the middle age. The elderly man had a black mark across his face, which was not perceived in any others ; all of them had their ears perforated, and some ol them liad glass beads hanging to them. These were the only fixed or»aments our people saw about them, for they wear none to the lips ; this is another particular, in which they differ from the Americans they had lately seen. Their clothing consisted of a pair of breeches, a rap, a frock, a pair of boots, and a pair of gloves, all made of {♦•ather, or of the skins of Jeer, dogs, seals, and other animals, and extremely well dressed ; some with the hair or fur on, and others without it. The caps were made in such a manner, hs to fit the head very close ; and besides these caps^ which most of them wore, our cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. 4ib men procured from them some hoods, made of dog-skins, that were large enough to cover both head and shoulders. Their hair seemed to be black, but their heads were either shaved, or the hair cut close oflf, and some of them wore beards. Of the lew articles which they got from our people, knives and tobacco were what ihey set the most value upon. The village was composed both of their winter and their sum- nitr habitations ; the former are exactly like a vault, the floor of which is sunk below the surface of the earth. One of them which Captain Cook examined, was of an oval form, about twenty feet in length, and twelve or more in height ; the framing consisted of wood, and the ribs of whales, judiciously disposed, and bound together v.ith smaller materials of the same kind. Over this framing a covering of strong, coarse grass was laid, and that again was covered with earth ; so that on the outside, the house had the appearance of a little hillock, supported -by a wall of stone, of the height of three or four feet, which was built round the two sides, and one end. At the other end of the habi- tation, the earth was raised sloping, to walk up to the entiance ; wliich was by a hole in the top of the roof, over that end. The floor was boarded, and under it was a sort of cellar, in which the captain saw nothing but water ; at the end of each house was a vaulted room, which he supposed was a store-room. These store- rooms communicated, by a dark passage, Vih the house ; and with the open air, by a hole in the roof, which was even with the ground one walked upon ; but they cannot be said to be whollv under ground ; for one end extended to the edge of the hilf, along which they were made, and which was built up with stone. Over it stood a kind of sentry-box, or tower, fonned of the large bones of great fish. Their summer huts were of a tolerable size, and circular, being brought to a point at the top. The framing was of slight poles and bones, covered with the skins of sea-animals. Captain Cook examined the inside of one; there was a fire-place just within the door, where a few wooden vessels lay, all very dirty. Tl)eir bed-places were close to the side, and took up about half the circuit ; some degree of privacy seemed to be observed ; for there were several partitions made uith skins. Tlie bed and bedding were of deer-skins, and most of them were clean and dry. About the houses were erected several stages, ten or twelve feet in height, such as they had seen on some parts of the Ameri- can coast. ITiey were composed entirely of bones, and seemed intended for drymg their fish and skins, which were thus placed out of die reach of their dogs, of which they had a great many. These dogs are of the fox kind, rather lar^je, and of different colours, with long, soft hair, like wool. 1 hey ate, in all pro- bability, used for the purpose of drawing their sledges in winiti , lor it appears that they have sledges, as the captain saw many of them laid \rr. in one of ll)€ir winter huts. It is likewise not K' s ; m'} ] m I \ i , ['* : ij ; i< ( ■■i 1, ■!- 416 cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780 % K ■M 1 ''J. * 1 'i ''\x % ^'i- improbable that dogs con^•ti<;ut€ a part of their food, for several lay dead, which had been ki'led that morning. The canoes of these people are of the same kind with those of the North Americans, son e, both of the large and small sort, being seen lying in a creek near the village. From the large bones offish and other sea-animals, it appeared that the sea furnished them with the greater part of their sub- sistence. The country appeared exceedingly barren, as our gentlemen saw neither tree nor shrub. At some distance to. wards the west they observed a ridge of mountains covered with snow, that had fallen not long before. At first some of our men supposed this land to be a part of the island of Alaschka, laid down in Mr. Staehlin's map before-men- tioned ; but from the appearance of the coast, the situation of the opposite shore of America, and from the longitude, they soon began to think that it was, more probably, the country of the Tschutski, or the eastern extremity of Asia, explored by Behring, in the year 1728. In admitting this, however, vnthoul farther examination they must have pronounced Mr. Staehlin's map, and his account of the New Northern Archipelago, to be either re- markably erroneous, even in latitude, or else to be a mere fiction ; a judgment which they would not j^resume to pass upon a publi- cation so respectably vouched, without producing the most decisive proofs. After the party had remained with these people between two and three hours, they returned ou board ; and soon after, the wind becoming southerly, weighed anchor, stood out of the bay, and steered to the north-east, between the coast and the two islands. At twelve o'clock the next day, f August 11) the former extended from south 80 deg. west, to nortn 84 deg. west; the later bore south 40 deg. west ; and the peaked mountain, over Cape Prince of Wales, bore south 36 deg. east. The lati- tude of the ship was 66 deg. 5^ min. north, the longitude 191 deg. 19min. east , the soundings were twenty-eight fathoms ; and the position nearly in the middle of the channel, between the two coasts, each being at the distance of about seven leagues. From this station they steered to the east, in order to get nearer to the American coast. In this course the water gradually shoaled; and there being very little wind, and all their en deavours to increase the depth failing, the ships were obli^od at last CO cast anchor in six fathoms : which was the only remedy remaining to prevent the ships driving into more shallow wat^ . The nearest part of the western land bore west, twelve leagi"^^ distant; the peaked mountain over Cape Prince of Wales, bore south 16 deg. west ; and the northernmost part of the American continent in sight, east-south-east ; the distance of the nearest part being about lour leagues. On the 13th, at four in the afternoon, a breeze arising at south, the ships steered north-east by north, till four o'clock the cook's third voyage, 1776- 1780 417 for several ith those of small sort, it appeared f their sub- en, as our Ustance to. avered Avith L part ol' the aefore-nien- ation of the , they soon ntry of the by Behring, lOut farther I's map, and e either re- lere fiction ; >on a publi- X the most etween two after, the out of the ast and the ust 11) the deg. west ; mountain, The lati- e 191 deg. and the the two les. ler to get gradually their en )bhg'3c! at [y remedy )w waff . |e leagi""' Wales, Irt of the ice of the rising at tlock the next morning, when seeing no land, they directed their course east by north; r ad between the hoars of nine and ten, land appeared, which they supposed was a continuation of the continent. It extended from east by south, to east by north ; not long afterwards they descried more land, bearing north by east. Coming rather suddenly into thirteen fathoms' water, at two in the afternoon, thev made a trip off till four, when ihey again stood in for the land, which they saw soon after, extending from north to south-east, the nearest part being at the distance of three or four leagues. The coast here forms a point, named Point Mulgrave, which is situated in the latitude of 67 deg. 45 min. north, and in the longitude of 194 deg. 51 min. east. The land seemed to be very low near the sea, but a little farther it rises to hills of a moderate height ; the whole was free from snow, and apparently destitute of wood. They now tacked, and bore away north-west by west From noon of the 16th of August, to six in the morning of the following, they steered east by north ; a course which bro :ht them into fifteen fathoms' water. They now steered north-east by east, thinking, by such a course, to increase the depth of water. But, in the space of six leagues, it shoaled to eleven fathoms, which induced them to haul close to the wind, that now blew at west. About twelve o'clock, both sun and moon were seen ch:arly at intervals, and they made some hasty observations for the longi- tude ; which, reduced to noon, when the latitude was 70 deg. S3 min. north, gave 197 deg. 41 min. east. The time-keeper, for the same time, gave 198 deg. Some time in the afternoon, they perceived a brightness in the northern horizon, like that reflected from ice, commonly called the blink. Little notice was taken of it, from a supposition that it was improbable they should so soon meet with the ice. The sharpness of the air, however, and gloominess of the weather, for the two or three preceding days, seemed to indicate some sudden change. About an hour afterwards, the sight of an enor- mous mass of ice, left them no longer in any doubt respecting the cause of the brightness of the horizon Between two and three o'clock, they tacked, close to the edge ot the ice, in ' nty-two fathoms' water, being then in the latitude of 70 deg. min. north, and unable to stand on any farther : for the ice was perfectly impenetrable, and extended from west by south, to east by north as far as the eye could reach. Here they met with great numbers ol sea-horses, some of which were in the water, but far more upon the ice. The commodore had thoughts of hoisting cut the boats to kill some of these animals ; but, the • iiid freshening, he gave up the design ; and they continued to ply towards the south, oi rather towards the west, for the wind came from that quarier. They made no progress ; for, at twelve on the 18th, the latitude was 70 deg. 44 min, north, and they were almost five leagues farther to the east. 41 •' \~t ■ .if '.' .;: I 1 1 %' a V'^ :■ ■1 V 1^1 418 COOK*S THIRD VOYAGE, 1776 — 1780. Tliey were, at this time, close to the edge of the ice, which was as compact as a wall, and appeared to be at least ten or twelve feet m height ; but, farther northward, it seemed to be much higher. Its surface was cxceedingljr rugged, and, in several places, they saw pools of water upon it. They now stood to the south, after runnm^ six leagues, shoaled the water to seven fathoms ; but it soon increased to the depth of nine fathoms, At this time, the weather which had been nazy, clearing up a little, they saw land extending from south to south-east by east, at the distance of three or four miles. The eastern extremity forms a point, which was greatly encumbered with ice on which account it was distinguished by the name of Icy Cape. Its latitude is 70 deg. 39 min. north, and its longitude 198 deg. 20 min. east. The other extremity of the land was lost in the horizon ; and they had no doubt of it* being a continuation of the conti- nent of America. The Discovery, being about a mile astern, and to leeward, met with less depth of water than they did ; and tacking on that account, the commodore was obliged to tack also, to prevent separation. Their situation now became critical : they were upcm a lee-shore in shoal water, and the main body oi the ice, to windward, was driving down upon them. It was evi- dent, tb t if they continued much longer between it and the land, it would force them ashore, unless it should chance to take the ground before them. It appeared almost to join the land to lee- ward, and the only direction that was free from it was the soutli- westward. After making a short board to the north. Captain Cook made a signal for the Discovery to tack, and his ship tacked at the same time. The wind proved in some measure favourable, so that they lay up south-west, and south-west by west. On Wednesday, the 19th, at eight in the morning, the wind veering to the west, they tacked to the northward, and, at twelve, the latitude was 70 deg. 6 min. north, and the longitude 196 deg. 42 min. east. In this situation they had a good deal of drift ice about the ships, and the main ice was about two leagues to the north. Between one and two they got in with the edge of it. It was not so compact a.^ that which was observed towards the north, but it was too close, and in too large pieces, to attempt forcing the ships through it. They saw an amazing number of sea-horses on the ice, and as they were in want of fresh pro- visions, the boats from each ship were dispatched to procnre some of them. By seven in the evening thev had received on- board the Resolution, nine of these animals, wnich, till this time, they had supposed to be sea-cows ; so that they were greatly disappointed, particularly .some of the sailors, who on account of tlie novelty of the thing, had been feasting their eyes for some days past. Nor could they have been disappointed now, nor known the difference, if there had not been two or thvee men on board who had been in Greenland, and declared what animals these were, and that no person ever eat them. Notwithstaiid- cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. 419 in^ this, they lived upon them as long as they lasted, and there were few of our people who did not prefer them to the salt meat The fat of these animals is, at first, as sweet as marrow ; but, in a few days, it becomes rancid, unless it be salted, in which stale it will keep much longer. The lean flesh is coarse and blackish, and has a strong taste, but the heart is almost as well tasted as that of a bullock. The fat, when melted, yields a good quantity of oil, which burns very well in lamps ; and their hides, which are very thick, were very useful about their rigging. Tlie teeth, or tusks, of most of them, were at this time, of very small size ; even some of the largest and oldest of these animals liad them not exceeding half a foot in length. Hence, it was concluded, that they had lately shed their old teeth. They lie upon the ice in herds of many hundreds, huddling, one over the other, like swine ; and roar very loud, so that m the night, or when the weather was foggy, they gave notice of tlie vicinity of the ice, before it could be mscerned. They never found the whole herd of them sleeping, some of them being constantly upon the watch. These, on the approach of the boat, would awake those that were next to them, and, the alarm being thus gradually communicated, the whole ntrd would presently be awake. However, they were seldom in a hurry to get away before they had been once fired at. Then, they would fall into the sea, one over the other, in the utmost con- fusion ; and, if they did not happen, at the first discharge, to kill those fired at, they generally lost them, though mortally wounded. They did not appear to be dangerous, as some authors have represented them, not even when they were attacked. They are rather more so in appearance than in reality. Vast multi- tudes of them would follovv, and come close up to the boats, but the flash of the musket in the pan, or even the mere pointing of one at them, would send them down in a moment. The female defends her young one to the very last, and at the expense of her own life, whether upon the ice or in the water. Nor will the young one quit the dam, though she should have been killed ; so that, if you destroy one, you are sure of the other. It is, doubtless, the same animal that is found in the Gulf of St. Lawrence, and is there called a sea-cow. It is cer- tainly more like a cow than a horse ; but, this reseniblance, consists in nothing but the snout. In short, it is an animal not unlike a seal, but incomparably larger. The length of one of them, which was none of the largest, was nine feet four inches from the snout to the tail ; the circumference of its body at the shoulders, was seven feet ten inches ; its circumference near the hinder fins was five feet six inches, and the weight of the carcass without the head, skin, or entrails, was eight hundred and fiftv- four pounds, the head weighed forty one pounds and a half, and the skin two hundred and five pounds. It may not be improper to remark, that, for some days before I I ,f m>¥ ' 1 V * ■4 i' 420 cook's THItlD VOYAGE, 1776— l78(J. ^4 i this time, they had often seen flocks of ducks flying to tlie southward. They were of two species, the one much larger than the other. The larger sort was of a brown colour ; and of the small sort, either the duck or drake was black and white, and the other brown. Some of our people said, that they also saw geese. This seems to indicate, that there must be land to the southward, where these birds, in the proper season tindl shelter for breeding, and whence they were now on their return to a warmer climate. On Thursday, the 'i7th, at four in the morning, they tacked and stood to the westward, and at seven in the evening, they were close in with the edge of the ice, which lay east-north east, and west-south-west, as far in each of those directions as the eye could reach. There bein^ but little wind. Captain Cook went with the boats to examine the state of the ice. He found it to consist of loose pieces, of various extent, and so close together, that he could scarcely enter the outer edge witli a boat ; and, it was impracticable for the ships to enter it, as if ' it had been so many rocks. He particularly remarked, that it was all pure transparent ice, except the upper surface, whicli was rather porous. It seemed to be wholly composed of frozen snow, and to have been all formed at sea. For, setting aside the improbability of such prodigious masses floating out of rivers, none of the productions of the land were found incorporated, or mixed in it ; which would certainly have been the case, if it had been formed in rivers, either great or small. The pieces of ice that formed the outer edge of the main body, were from forty or fifty yards in extent, to four or five; and the captain judged, that the larger pieces reached thirty feet or more, under the surface of the water. He also thought it highly improbable, that this ice could have been the produc- tion of the preceding winter alone. He was rather inclined to suppose it to have been the production of many winters. It was equally improbable, in his opinion, that the little that now remained of the summer, could destroy even the tenth part of what now subsisted of this great mass ; for the sun had already exerted upon it the full force and influence of his rays. The sun, indeed, according to his Judgment, contributes very little towards reducing those enormous masses. For, though that luminary is above the horizon a considerable time, it seldom shines out for more than a few hours at a time, and frequently is not seen for several successive days. It is the w'*id, or rather the waves raised by the wind, that brings down . '^ bulk of these prodigious masses, by grinding one piece agai. ■ another, and by undermining and washing away those parts which are exposed to the surge of the sea. This was manifest from the captain's observing, that the upper surface of many of the pieces had been partly washed away, while the base, or under part, continued firm for several fathoms book's third voyage, 1776 — 1780 221 I round that which appeared above water, like a shoal round a high rock. He measured the depth of water upon one, and found it was fifteen feet, so that the ships might have sailed over it. If he had not measured this depth, he would have been unwilling to believe, that there was a sufficient weight of ice above the surface, to have sunk the other so much below it. It nwy thus happen, that more ice is destroyed in one tempestuous season, than is formed in several winters, and an endless accu- mulation of it is prevented. But that there is constantly a remaining store, will be acknowledged by every one who has been upon the spot. A thick fog coming on while the commodore was thus employed, hastened him with the boats aboard sooner than he could have wished, with one sea-horse to each ship* Our people had killed many, but could not wait to bring them off. The number of these animals, on all the ice that they had seen, is almost incre- dible. They spent the night standing off and on, amongst the drift ice, and at nine o'clock the next morning, the fog having )artly dispersed, boats from each of the ships were dispatched or sea-horses ; for our people by this time began to relish them, and those they had before furnished themselves with, were all consumed. At noon the latitude was 69 deg. 17 min. north, longitude 183 deg. east, and depth of water twenty -five fathoms. At two in the afternoon, havmg got on-board as many sea- horses as was thought necessary, and the wind freshenmg at south-south-east, they hoisted in the boats, and steered to the south-west : but being unable to weather the ice upon this tack, or to go through it, they made k board to the eastward, till about eight o'clock, then resumed their course to the south-west, and were obliged before midnight to tack again, on account of the ice. Not lon^ after, the wind veering to the north-west, and blowing a stiff gale, they stretched to the south-west, close hauled. On the 29th, in the morning, they saw the main ice towards the north, and soon after perceived land bearing south-west-by- west. In a short time alter this, more land was seen, bearing west. It shewed itself in two hills resembling islands, but soon the whole appeared connected. As they made a nearer ap- proach to the land, the depth of water (lecreased very fast, so that, at twelve o'clock, when they tacked, they found only eight fathoms; being three miles from the coast, which extended from south 30 deg. east to north 60 deg. west. This last extre- mity terminated in a bluff point, being one of the hills mentioned before. The weather was now very hazy, with drizzling rain, but, soon afterwards, it cleared up, particularly to the southward, west- ward, and northward. This enabled them to have a tolerable view of the coast ; which resembles, in every respect, the oppo. site coast of America ; that is^ low land next the sea^ with the i:3fc 4>i<2 cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. Ui •■ higher land farther back. It Mas totally destitute of wood, and even of snow ; but, was probably covered with a raossv sub. stance, that gave it a brownish hue. In the low ground tfmt lay between the sea and the high land, was a lake^ extending to the south-east, farther than they could see. As they stood off, the westernmost of the two hills above-mentioned came open off the bluif point, in a north-west direction. It had the appearance of an ismnd, but it might perhaps be connected with the other by low land, though they did not aee it, and if that be the case, there is a two-fold point, with a bay between them. This point, which is rocky, and steep, received the name of Cape North. It is situated nearly in the latitude of 68 deg. 56 min. north, and in the longitude of 181 deg. 51 min. east. The coast beyond it^ doubtless, takes a very westerly direction : for they could discern no land to the northward of it, though the horizon was there pretty clear. Wishing to see more ot the coast to the westward, they tacked again, at two in the afternoon, thinking they should be able to weather Cape North ; but, finding they coiud not, the wind freshening, a thick fog coming on, with much snow, and being apprehensive of the ice coming down upon (iiem, the commodore relinquished the design he had formed of plying to the westward, and again stood off shore. The season was now so far advanced, and the time when the frost generally sets in was so near, that Captain Cook did not think it consistent with prudence, to make any farther attempts to discover a passage into the Atlantic Ocean this year in any direction, so small was the probability of success. His atten- tion was now directed to the search of some place, where they might recruit the wood and water ; and the object that prin- cipally occupied liis thoughts was, how he should pass the wmter, so as to make some improvements in navigation and geography, and, at the same time, be in a condition to return to the northward the ensuing summer, to prosecute his search of a passage into the Atlantic. Having stood off till the soundings were eighteen fathoius, they made sail to the eastward along the coast, which, they were now pretty well convinced, could only be the continent of Asia. The windi blowing fresh, and there being, at the same time, a thick mist, and a very heavy fall of snow, it was necessary that they should proceed with great caution ; they therefore brought to for a few hours in the night. Early the next morning, which was the 30th of August, they steered such a course as was judged most likely to bring tiiem in with the land, being guided, in a great measure by the lead ; for the weather was extremely thick and gloomy, with incessant showers of snow ; at ten o'clock, they got sight of the coast, which was at the distance of four miles, bearing south-west. At noon the mist dispersing, they had a view of the coast, which extended from south-east to north-west-by-west. Some cook's third voyage, 177C — 1780. 423 parts appeared higher than others; but, in genera! it was very low, with high land farther up the coiintry. 'i'he whole was now covered with snow vyhich had fallen very lately ; the^ ranged along the coast at the distance of about two leagues, tdl ten at niglit, when they hauled oft'; but resumed their course early next morning, when they got sight of the coast again, extending from west by south-east-by-south. At eight o'clock, the eastern part bore south, and proved to be an island, which, at twelve, was four or five miles distant, bearing south-west-half-south. It is of a moderate height, between four and five miles in circumference, with a steep rocky coast. It is situated in the latitude of 67 deg. 45 min. north, about three leagues from the continent ; and, is distinguished by the appellation of Burne>r's Island. The inland country about thw part abounds with hills, some of which are of considerable elevation. The land, in general, was covered witii snow, except a few spots on the coast^ which still contmiied low, but less so than farther westward. During the two preceding days, the mean height of the mer- cury in the thermometer, had frequently been below the freezing pouit, and, in general, verv little above it ; msomuch, that the water in the vessels upon deck, was often covered with a sheet of ice. They continued to steer south-south-east, nearly in the direction of the coast, till five o'clock in the afternoon, when they saw land bearing south 50 deg. east, which proved to be a coi/inuation of the coast. They hauled up for it without delay ; and, lit ten in the evening, bemg abreast of the eastern land, and bv^ing doubtful of weathering it, tacked, and made aboard towards the west, till after ten the next morning (Tuesday the 1st of September), when they again made sail to the east. The wind was now very unsettled, continually varying from north to north-east. Between eight and nirie, the eastern extremity of the land v/^as at the distance of six or seven miles, bearing south-by-eftst. A head -land appeared, at the same time, bearing east-by-south, half-south: and soon after they could trace the whole coast that lay between them, and a little island at some distance from it. ^ The coast now in sight seemed to form several rocky points, that were connected by a low shore, without any appearance of an harbour. At some distance from the sea, many hills pre- sented themselves to the view, the hignest of which were covered with snow : ia other respects, the whole country had a naked aspect. At seveu in the evening, two points of land, beyond the eastern head opened off in the direction of south 37 deg. east. Captain Cook was now convinced of what he had before imagine:!, that this was the country of the Tschutski, or the north-easi: coast of Asia ; that Behring had proceeded thus far in the yeai* 1728: that is, to this head, which, according to MuUer, is d<;nomiuated Serdze Kamen^ on account of a rock i I r IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) k A O ^ .^. % :/. I/.. Ms 1.0 I.I 128 us 1^ I 2.2 2.0 i i Lis iu ill Photographic Sciences Corporation 33 WEf T MAIN STREET V'«P.STSR, N.Y. M5S0 (716) 872-4S03 ,\ & < ;\ 4 4-24 cook's third voyage, 1776—1780. i ?1\ - 11 ir uion it, shaped like a heart. There are, indeed, man>/ high rooksi on this cape, some one or other of which may have the sha[.3o(| a heart. It is a promontory of tolerable height, with a steep rocky cliff facing the sea. Its latitude is 67 cleg. 3 min. north, and its longitude 188 deg. II min. east. To the east of it, tU coast is high and bold: but, to the west it is low, and extendi north-west- by- west, and north-north-west; which, is nearly jtj direction all the way to Cape North. The depth of water, is every where the same, at an equal distance from the shore ; and this IS likewise the case on the opposite coast of America. Tlie greatest depth found in ranging along it, was twenty-three fathoms. During the night, or in thick foggy weather, tlie soundings are no bad guide to those who sail along either ol | these coasts. On the *ind of September, at eight in the morning, the most I advanced land to the south-eastward, bore south 25 deg. east; and, from this point of view, had an insular appearance. But, I the thick showers of snow that fell in quick succession, and settled on the land, hid great part of the coast from their sight at this time. Soon after, the sun, which had not been seen fur near iive days, broke out during the intervals between the showers, by which means the coast was, in some measure, freed from the fog ; so that they obtained a sight of it, and found that the whole was connected. The wind was still northernlj. the air was cold, and the mercury in the thermometer did not rise above 35 deg. and was sometimes as low as 30 deg.— At noon the latitude was 66 deg. 37 min. north ; Cape Serdze Kamen was twelve or thirteen leagues distant, bearing north 52 deg. west ; the southern utmost point of land in sight, bore south 41 deg. east; their soundings were, twenty-two fathoms; and the nearest part of the shore, was about two leagues distant. The weather was now fair and bright ; and as they ranged along the coast, they saw several of the natives, and some ot their habitations, which looked like little hillocks of earth. In the course of the evening they passed Eastern Cape, or the point before mentioned ; from which the coast changes its direction, and tends to the south-west. This is the same point of land, that had been passed on the 11th of the preceding month. Those who gave credit to Mr. Staehlin's map, then supposed to be the eastern point of his island Alaschka ; but they were by this time convinced, that it is no other than the eastern promon- tory of Asia; and, perhaps, it is the proper Tschukotskoi Noss, though the promontory, to which Bebring gave that name, is farther to the south-west. Muller, in his map of the discoveries of the Russians, places the Tschukotskoi Noss nearly in the latitude of 75 deg. north, and extends it somewhat to the eastward of this cape ; but Captain Cook was of opinion, that he had no good authority for so doing. Indeed Mailer's^ or rather Deshueff's account of the cook's third voyage, 1776—1780. 433 distance between the river Anadir and Noss, cannot be recon- filed with this very northernly position. For he says, that with (he most favourable wind, a person may go by sea from the soss to the river Anadir in three whole days, and that the loiirne)' by land is very little longer. But Captain Cook, having )opes of visiting these parts again, deferred the discussion of liis point to another oi)portunity. In the mean time, however, concluded, as Behring had done before him, that this was [he easternmost point of all Asia. Jt is a peninsula of consider- able elevation, joined to the continent by a very low and appa- rently narrow neck of land. It has, next the sea, a steep rocky liir; and off the very point are several rocks resembling spires. It is situated in the longitude of 190 deg. 2*2 min. east, and in )he latitude of 66 deg. 6 min. north ; and is thirteen leagues (distant in the direction of north, 53 deg. west, from Cape Prince Wales, on the coast of America. The land about this pro- jniotitory, is composed of hills and valleys. The former termi- liiate at the sea in steep rocky points, and the latter in low shores. JTlie hills seemed to be naked rocks ; but the valleys, though Idcstitute of tree or shrub, were of a greenish hue. After the ships had passed the Cape, they steered south-west- llwll-vvest, towards the northern point of St. Lawrence's Bay, in which the ships had anchored on the 1 0th of August. They reached it by eight o'clock the following morning, and saw some of the natives at the plac4$ where they had before seen them, as well as others on the opposite side of the bay. Not one oi' them, however, came off: which was rather remarkable, I as the weather was sufficiently favourable, and as those whom they had lately visited had no reason to be displeased. These people are certainly the Tschutski, whom the Russians had not hitherto subdued ; though it is manifest, they must carry on a iraftic with the latter, either directly, or by the interposition of some neighbouring n'xtions : as their being in possession of the spoiitoons seen among them, cannot otherwise be accounted lor. The Bay of St. Lawrence* is, at least five leagues broad, at the entrance, and about four leagues deep, narrowing towards the bottom, where it seemed to be pretty well sheltered froni the sea winds, provided there be a sufficient depth of water for ships. The commodore did not wait to examine it, though he was very desirous of finding a convenient harbour in those parts, to which he mig[ht resort in the succeeding spring. — But he wished to meet wiih one where wood might be obtained ; and he knew that lone cculd be found here. From the south point of this bay, which lies in the latitude of 65 deg. 30 min. • Captain Cook called it by this'iic me, from his luivinj; unchoi-ed in it on the 10th of August, wliich is St. Lawrence's day. It is remiirkable, that Behring sailed nast this very ijIucu on Auj^ust 10, 1728 ; ou which account hu denominated the ucignbouring '"laml lifter the same saint. 3 I' : I i ■I ' ' f ' 42f cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. north, the coast tends west-by-south, for the space of a])out nine leagues, and there forms a deep bay or river; or else, the land in that part is so low that they could not discern it. At one in the afternoon, they saw what was first supposed to be a roc!i ; but, it proved to be a whale, which some Asiatics had killed, and were towing ashore. Tliey seemed to conceal themselves behind the fish, in order to avoid being seen; but this was unnecessary, for Captain Cook proceeded on liij course without taking any notice of them. On the 4th, at day. break, they hauled to the north-wHit, in order to get a nearer view of the inlet seen the day before ; but, the wind, soon alter, veering to liat direction, the design Tvas abandoned; and, steering towards the south along the joast, they passed two bays, each about six miles deep. The northernmost one is situated before a hill, which is rounder than any other that Iwd been observed upon the coast. There is an island lying before the other bay. It may be doubted, whether there be a suflicient depth of water for ships in either of these bays, as when edged in for tibe shore, they constantly met with ahoal water. This part of the country, is extremely naked and hilly. In several places on the low ground^ next the sea, were the habitations of the natives, near all of which were erected stages of bones, like those before-mentioned. This day, at noon, the latitude was 64 deg. SSmin. north, and the longitude 188 deg. 15 min. east; the nearest part of the shore, was a^ the distance of three or four leagues ; and the southernmosiT )B^int of the continent in sight bore south, 48 deg. west. The wind, by this time had veered to the north, and blew a light breeze; the weather was clear, and the air sharp. The commodore did not think proper to follow the direction of the coast, as he perceived it inclined westward towards the gulph of Anadir, into which he had no motive for going. He, therefore, steered a southerly course, that he might have a sight of the hk of St. Lawrence, discovered by Behring. This island was quickly seen by them; and, at eight in the evening, it bore south 20 deg. east, supposed to be at the distance of eleven leagues. At the same time, the southernmost point of the main land was twelve leagues distant, bearing south 83 deg. west.— Captain Cook coi\iectured, that this was the point which Behring calls the east point of Suchotski, or Cape Tschukot- skoi; an appellation wnich he gave it with some propriety, because of the natives, who said they were of the nation of Tschutski. Its latitude is 64 deg. 13 min. north, and its longi- tude 186 deg. 36 min. east. The more the commodore was convinced, of his being at pre- sent upon the Asiatic coast, the more he was at a loss to recon- cile his observations with Mr. Staehlin's map of the New Northern Archipelago ; and he could only account for the great difference, by supposing, that he haa mistaken some part of cook's third voyage, 1776—1780. 427 what Mr. Staehlin denominates the island of Alaschka for the continent of America, and had missed the channel that sepa- rates them. Admitting even this, there would still have been a considerable variation. The captain considfired it as an affair of some consequence, to clear up this point during the present season, that he might have only one object in view in the fol- lowing one. And as these northerly islands were said to abound with wood, he had some hopes, if he should find them, of pro- curing a competent supply of that article, of which they began to stand in great need. With these views, he steered over for tlie coast of America ; and the next day, at five in the afternoon, land was seen bearing south three quarters east, which they imagmed was Anderson's Island ; or some other land near it. On Sunday the 6th, at four in the morning, they got sight of the American coast, near Sledge Island; and, at six the same evening, that island was seen at the distance of ten leagues, bearing r.'lih, 6 deg. east, and the easternmost land in view north, 49 deg. east. If any part of what Captain Cook had conjectured to be the coast of the American continent, could possibly be the island of Alaschka, it was that now in sight ; in which case he must have missed the channel between it and tlie main land, by steering tow|rds the west, instead of the east, after he had first fallen in with it. He was, therefore, at no loss where to go, for the purpblw ofjclearing up these doubts. On the 7th, at eight in the ev|ning, they had got close in with the land. Sledge Island beJUrm^nHrth, 85 deg. west, about eight leagues distant ; and the eastern part of the coast north, 70 deg. east, with elevated land in the direction of east-by-north. The next morning, at one o'clock, finding that the water shoaled pretty fast, they anchored in ten fathoms, and remained in that situation till day-light came on. They then weighed, and pur- sued their course along the coast, which tended east, and east- halt-south. At seven in the evening, they were abreast of a point, lying in the longitude of 197 deg. east, and in tlie latitude of 64 deg. 21 min. north ; beyond which, the coast takes a more northerly direction. At eight this point, which received the appellation of Cape Darby, bore south, 62 deg. west ; the north- ernmost land in sight, north, 32 deg. east ; and the distance of the nearest part of the shore was one league. In this situation, they let go tneir anchors in thirteen fathoms, over a muddy bottom. On the 9th, at day-break, they weighed, and made sail along the coast ; they now saw land, which was supposed to be two islands, the one bearing east, the other south, 70 deg. east. — Not long after, they found themselves near a coast covered with wood ; an agreeable sight, to which of late they had not been accustomed. As they advanced northward, land was seen in the direction of north-east-half-north, which proved to be a con- tinuation of the coast ; they also saw high land over the islands, apparently at a considerable distance beyond them. This was U2 19 ji ; ( M^ 438 cook's third voyage, 1776—1780. I L- . U :,:9f thought to be the continent, and the other lamd the island of Alaschka ; but it was already doubtful, whether they should find a passage between them, for the water gradually shoaled m they proceeded farther towards the north. In consequence of tiiis two boats were sent a head to sound ; and the commodoie ordered the Discovery, as she drew the least water, to lead, keeping nearly in the mid-channel, between the coast and the northernmost island. In this manner they continued their course, till three in the afternoon, when, having passed the island, the soundings did not exceed three fathoms and a half, and the Resolution at one time brought up the mud from the bottom. In no part of the channel could a greater depth of wate, be found, tnough they had sounded it from one side to the other; the commodore therefore deemed it high time to return. The ships continued to ply back during the night ; and, bj day-break on the 10th, had deepened their water six fathoms. At nine o'clock, when about three miles from the west shore, Captain Cook, accompanied by Mr. King, went with two boats in search of wood ana water: they landed where the coast pro. jects into e bluff head, composed of perpendicular strata of a dark blue rock, intermixed with glimmer and quartz. Adjoininj; to the beach is a narrow border of land, which was at this time covered with long grass, and where they observed some ange- lica. The ground beyond this rises with some abruptness ; at the top of tnis elevation, they found a heath that abounded with berries of various kinds ; and^fiyrfher on the country was level, and thinly covered with small spruce trees, birch, and willows. They saw the tracks of foxes and deer upon the beach ; on which also lay a great quantity of drift-wood ; and there wai no want of fresh water. The gendemen and their attendants having returned on-board, the commodore had thoughts of bringing the ships to an anchor here ; but the wind then shifting to the north-east, which blew rather on this shore, he stretched over to the opposite one, expecting to find wood there likewise. At eight in the evening, they anchored at the south end of the northernmost island, for so they imagined it to be ; but the next morning, found that it was a peninsula, connected with the continent by a low isthmus un each side of which the coast fonns a bay. They plied into the southernmost, and about noon anchored in five fathoms' water, over a muddy bottom : the point of the peninsula, to which the appellation of Cape Denbigh was given, bearing north, 60dei[. west, one league distant. They observed upon the peninsuu several natives ; and one of them came off in a small canoe. Captain Cook ga« e this man a knife and some beads, with which he appeared well pleased ; they made signs to him to bring some provisions, upon which, he instantly paddlod towards the shore, Happening to meet another man coming y,^^ who had two dried nlmou^he got them from him ; and when he returned to the cock's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. 4*i9 yfoxM give them to nobody but Captain Cook. Some of our people fancied, that he asked for him under the name of Capitane ; but^ in this, they were perhaps mistaken. Otiiers of the inhabitants came off soon after, and exchanged a few dried fish for such tritles as our men had to barter with them. Tlicy shewed no dislike for tobacco, but they were most desirous of knives. In tlie afternoon Lieutenant Gore was sent to the peninsula, j to procure wood and water : of the former of whicti articles, great plenty was observed upon the beach. At the same time, a boat from each ship was sent to sound round the bay ; and at three o'clock, the wind freshening at north-east, tliey weighed anchor, and endeavoured to work further in. But that was soon found to be impracticable, by reason of the shoals which ex- tended quite round the bay, to the distance of upwards of two miles from the shore ; as the officers who had been sent out for the purpose of sounding reported. ^ They therefore stood ofl' and on with the ships, vvaiting for Lieutenant Gore, who returne:d about eight o'clock in the evening, with the laimch loaded with wood. He informed the commodore that he had found but little fresh-water, and that the wood could not be procured without some ditficultv, on account of the boats grounding at some distance .from the beach. Thiss being the case, the snips stood back to the other shore ; and, at eight the next morning; all the boats, and a detachment of men, with an ofiicer, were sent to get wood from the place wh^re^ Captain Cook had landed on the 10th. After having continued, for some time, to stand off and on with the ships, they at length cast anchor in less than five fathoms, at the distance of half a league from the coast, whose southern point bore south, 36 deg. west. Cape Denbigh was about twenty-six miles distant, bearing south, 72 deg. east ; Bald-Head was nine leagues off, in the direction of north, 60 dtg. east; and the island under the east shore to the southward of Cape Denbigh named by Captain Cook, Besborough Island, was 52 deg. east. This being a very open road, and therefore not a secure station for the ships, the commodore resolved not to wait till the stock of water was completed, as that would take some time ; but only to furnish the ships with wood, and then to seek a more commodious place for the other article. Our people carried off the drift-wood that lay on the beach, and performed thai part with great expedition ; for, as the wind blew along the shore, the boats were enabled to sail both ways. In the after- noon Captain Cook went on-shore, and took a walk into the country; which, where there was no wood, abounded with heath and other plants, several of which had plenty of berries, all ripe. Scarcely a single plant was in flower; the underwood, such as birch, alders, and willows, rendered it very troublesome walking among the trees, which were all spruce, and none of U3 ■I'M if 480 C00K*8 THIRD VOYAGE, 1776—1780. them above seven or eight inches in diameter ; but some Merel observed lying on the beach that were twice this size. All the I drift-wood that was seen in these northern parts was fir. I The following day, which was Sunday, the 13th, a family ofl the natives came near the spot where our people were oecupie(i| in taking off wood. The captain saw only tne husband and wife f and their child, besides a fourth person, who was the most de- formed cripple he had ever seen. The husband was almost blind, and neither he nor his wife were such well-looking people ajl many of those whom we had met with on this coast. Both o(| them had their lower lips perforated ; and they were in posses.! sion of some glass-beads, resembling those we had seen befoitl among their neighbours. Iron was the article that pleased theuj most. For four knives which had been formed out of an old iron-l hoop, the captain obtained from them near four hundred poiindJ weight of fisn, that had been lately caught by them. Some werel trout, and the rest were, in size and taste, somewhat between a I herring and a mullet. The captain gave a few beads to M child, who waa a female ; upon which the mother burst into tears,! then the father, next after him the cripple, and at last, to add the I finishing stroke to the concert, the child herself. This music, f however, was not of long duration. I Mr. King had, on the preceding day, been in company \nM th« same family, and gives the following account of his intervievrl with them: " On the I'ith, while I attended the wooding partjj a canoe full of natives approached us; and, beckoning themtol land, an elderly nian and woman came on shore. Igavethel woman a small knife, making her understand, that I would give! her a much larger one for some fish. She made signs for me tol follow her. I had proceeded with them about a mile, when thel man, in crossing a stony beach, fell down, and cut his foot vety! much. This made me stop ; upon which the woman pointedj to the man's eyes, which, 1 observed, were covered with a thick,! white film. He afterwards kept close to his wife, who apprisedl him of the obstacles in his way. — ^The woman had a little child oil her back, covered with the hood of her jacket ; and which I tookl for a bundle, till T heard it cry. At about two miles distant ml came to their open skw boat, which was turned on its side, thel convex part towards the wind, and served for their house. I wajl now made to perform/" ingular operation on the man's eyrs,| First, I was directed to iiold my breath; afterwards, to breathe on the diseased eyes ; and next, to spit on them. The womanl then took bo^h my hands, and pressing them to his stomach,! held them tlK,re for some time, wliile she related some calami-l tous history of her family ; pointing sometimes to her husband,! sometimes to a frightful cripple belonging to the family, andl sometimes to her child. I purchased all the fish they had, con-l sisting of very fine salmon, salmon trout and mullet ; whichi were delivered most faithfully to the man I sent for them. Thel cook's third voyage, 1776 — 17»0. i;n but some were I size. All the I as fir. I I, a family ofl were occupied! }and and wiy the most de'l I almost blind,! ing people Hi! >ast. Both of! ;re in posses.) id seen befon pleased theml of an old ironvait, being in great hopes to reach the extreme point that was in sight, time enough to ascend the heights before dark, as the weather Has at this time remarkably clear and fine: and we could see to a great distance. By two o'clock we had got within two miles of Bald Head, under the lee of the high land, and in smooth water ; but, at the moment our object was nearly attained, all the men, but two, were so overcome with ffi^tigue and sleep, that my utmost endeavours to make them pull on were ineffectual. The^-, at length, dropped their oars, quite exhausted, and fell asleep in the bottom of the boat. Indeed, considering that they had set out fatigued, and had now been sixteen hours out of the eighteen, since they left the ship, pulling in a poppling sea, it is no won- der that their strength and spirits should be worn out for want of sleep and refreshments. The two gentleinen who were with me, and myself, were now obliged to lay hold of the oars ; and, by a little after three, we landed between the Bald Head and a pro- jectingpoint to the eastward." On Tuesday, the 16th, the ships removed over to the bay on the south-east side of Gape Denbigh, where they anchored in the afternoon. Not long after several of the inhabitants came offiu canoes, and gave some dried salmon in exchange for trifling ar- ticles. Early the next morning, nine men, each in a separate canoe, paid them a visit, with no other view than to gratify their curiosity. They approached the ship with caution, and drawing up abreast with each other, under the stem, favoured them with a song ; while one of their number made many ludicrous motions with bis hands and body, and another beat upon a sort of drum. Their was nothing savage either in the song or in the gestures with which it was accompanied. There seemed to be no differ- ence, either with respect to size or features, between these people and those whom tliey had met with on every other part of tliis roast, except King George's Sound. Their dress, which con- sisted principally of deer-skins, was made after the same mode; and they had adopted the practice of perforating their lower lipSf and affijking ornaments to them OOOK*S THIRD VOYAGE, 1776 — 1780. 433 Tlie habitations of these people were situated close to the beaoh. They consist merely of a sloping roof without any side- walls, formed of jogs, and covered with earth and grass. The ^oor is likwise laid with logs. The entrance is at one end, and I the fire-place is just within it. A small hole is made near the door of the hut, for the purpose of letting out the smoke. A party of men was dispatched this morning to the peninsula, I for brooms and spruce. Half the remainder of the people of both ships, were at the same time, permitted to go ashore and j gather berries. These returned on-board about twelve o'clock, I and the other half then landed for the same purpose. The 1 berries found here, were hurtle-berries, heath-berries, partridge- berries, and wild currant-berries. Captain Cook also went ashore himself, and walked over part of the peninsula. He met with good jrrass in several places, and scarcely observed a single spot on I which some vegetables was not growing. The low land which con- nects this peninsula with the continent, abounds with narrow creeks, and likewise >vith ponds of water, some of which were at this time frozen over. There were numbers of bustards and geese, but so shy, that it was not possible to get within musket shot of them. Some snipes were also seen ; and, on the higher grounds were partridges of two species; where there ^i^as wood, musquitoes were numerous. Some of the officers, whc went farther into tlie country than Captain Cook did, niet a few of the natives of I both sexes, who treated them with civility and kindness. llie commodore was of opinion, that this peninsula had been I an island in some distant period ; for there were marks of the sea having formerly flowed over the isthmus ; and even now, it I appeared to be kept out by a bank of sand, stones and wood, which the waves had thrown up. It was * evident from this bank that the land encroached upon the sea, and it was easy to I trace its gradual formation. Lieutenant King returned from his expedition about seven in the evening, and reported that he proceeded with the boats I about three or four leagues farther than the ships had been able to go ; that he then landed on the west side ; that, from the heights, he could see the two coasts join, and the inlet terminate in a small creek or river, before which there were banks of sand or mud and every where shoal water. The land, too, was low and swampy for some distance to the northward, then it rose into hills ; and the perfect junction of those, on each side of the inlet, was easily traced. From the elevated spot on which Mr. King took his survey of the Sound, he could discern many spacious valleys, with rivers flowing through them, well wooded, and bounded by hills of a moderate height. One of the rivers to the north-west seemed to be considerable ; and he was inclined to suppose, from its direc- tion, that it emptied itself into the sea at the head of the bay.-*- Some of his people, penetrating beyond this into the country, U 5 ti :;. 434 cook's TIftRD VOYAGE, 1776—1780. foimd the trees to be of a larger size the farther they proceeded. To this inlet Captain Cook gave the name of Norton's Sound, in honour of Sir Fletcher Norton, afterwards Lord Grantley,a near relation of Mr. King. It extends northviard as far as the latitude of 64 deg. 65 min. north. The bay wherein their shipj were now at anchor, lies on the south-east side of it, and ij denominated Chacktoole by the natives. It is but an indifferent station, being exposed to the south and south-west winds. Nor is a harbour to be met with in all this sound. Captain Cook was so fortunate, however, as to have the wind from the north- east and the north, during the whole time of his continuance here, with very fine weather. This afforded him an opportunity of making a great number of lunar observations, the mean result of which gave 197 deg. 13 min. east, as the longitude of the anchoring place on the west side of the Sound, while its latitude was 64 deg. 31 min. north. With respect to the tides, the night-flood rose two or three feet, and the day-flood was scarcely perceivable. Captain Cook, being now perfectly convinced, that Mr. Staehlin's map was extremely erroneous, and having restored the continent of America to the space which that gentleman had occupied with his imaginary island of Alaschka, thought it now high time to quit these northerly regions, and to retire to some place during the winter, where ne might obtain provisions and refreshments. He did not consider Petropaulowska, or the harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul, in Kamtschatka, as likely to furnish a sufficient supply. He had,, besides, other reasons for not going thither at present ; the principal of which was hu great unwillingness to remain inactive for six or seven months. which would have been the consequence of wintering in any oi' these northern countries. He at length concluded, that no situation was so convenient for their purpose as the Sandwich Islands. To them, therefore, he determined to proceed. But, a supply of water being necessary before he could execute that design, he resolved, with a view of procuring this essential article, to search the coast of America for a harbour, by pro- ceeding along it to the south. If he should not meet with success in that search, his attention w^as to reach Samganoodha, which was appointed for their place of rendezvous, iii case the ships should happen to separate. In the morning of the 17th of September, the ships weighed anchor with a light easterly breeze, and steering to the south- ward, attempted to pass within Besborough Island ; they con- tinued to steer for this passage till the boats, which w^ere a-head, made the signal for having no more than three fathoms' water In consequence of this, they hauled without the island, and dis- played the signal for the Resolution's boat to keep between the shore and the ships. '.I 1 ., couk's third voyage, 17W— 1780. 435 farther they irton's Sound, rd Grantley, a I as far asthe Mil their ships [? of it, and u an indifferent t winds. Nor Captain Cook im the north- J continuance in opnortunit) ns, the mean B longitude of und, while its t to the tides, iay- flood was ed, that 3Ir, ving restored at gentleman ta, thou^lit it id to retire to lin provisions owska, or the , as likely to T reasons for hich was hit ven months. ng in any oi ed, that no le Sandwich teed. But. execute that |iis essential our, by pro- Iwith success |odha, which e the ships )s weighed the south- I ; they con- rere a-head, loms' water lid, and dis- Lptween the Tliis island, to which the name of Stuart's Island was given, lies in the latitude of 63 deg. 35 min. north, and is seventeen leagues distant from Cape Denbigh, in the direction of south •^7 deg. west. It is six or seven leagues in circumference. Some parts of it are of a moderate height, but, in general, it in low, with some rocks olV the western part. The coast for the most part is low land, but we perceived liigh land up the country, it forms a point opposite the island, which was named Cape Stenhens, and lies in the latitude of 63 deg. 33 min. north, and in the longitude of 197 deg. 41 min. east. Some drift wood wa.s observed upon the shores, both of the island and of the con- tinent: but not a single tree was seen growing upon either. Vessels might anchor, upon occasion, between the continent and the north-east side of this island, in a depti) of five fathoms, slieltered from the easterly, westerly, and southerly winds. — But this station would be entirely exposed to the northerly winds; the land, in that direction, being too remote to afforil any security. Before they reached Stuart's Island, they passed two sr^all islands, lying between them and the main; and, as they ranged along the coast, several of the natives made their ippearance upon the shore, and by signs, seemed to invite them to approach. They were no sooner witliout the island, than they steered south-by-west, for the most southern part of the continent in sight, till eight in the evening, when the depth of water having decreased from six fathoms to less than four, they tacked and stood to the northward, into five fathoms, and then spent tlw night in standing off and on. At the time they tacked, the southernmost point of land above-mentioned, which they named point Shallow- Water, bore south-half-east, at the distance of seven leagues. They resumed their southerly course on the 19th at day-break, but shoal water soon obliged them to haul more to the westward. At length they got so far advanced upon the bank, that they could not hold a north-north-west course, as thej^ sometimes only met with four fathoms. The wind blowing fresh at east-north-east, it was now high time to endeavour to find a greater depth of water, and to quit a coast upon vvhich they could no longer navigate with safety ; they therefore hauled the wind to the northward, and the water gra- dually increased in depth to eight fathoms. As soon as they had got into eight fathoms' water, they steered to the westward, and afterwards more southerly, for the land discovered on the 5th of September, which, at noon, on the 20th, bore south-west-by-west, ten or eleven leagues distant. Tliey had now a fresh gale at north, and, at intervals showers of hail and snow, with a pretty high sea. To the land before them, the commodore gave the appellation of Gierke's Island. It stands in the latitude of 63 deg. 15 min., and in the longitude of 190 deg. 30 min. It seemed to be an island of considerable Hi 436 cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780 W " ! extent, in which are several hills, all connected by low ground, so that it looks, at a distance, like a group of islands. Near its east part lies a small island, remarkable for having on it three eu^vated rocks. Both the greater island and the smaller one were inhabited. On Wednesday, the 23rd, at day-break, the land made its ap. pearance, bearing south-west, at the distance of six or seven leagues. From this point of view, it resembled a cluster of islands ; but it was found to be only one of about thirty miles in extent, in the direction of north-west and south-east ; the aouth- eastern extremity being (lape Upright, mentioned before. The island is narrow, particularly at the low neck of land by which the hills are connected. Captain Cook afterwards found that it was entirely unknown to the Russians, and, therefore, consider ing it as a discovery of our own, he named it Gore's Island. It appeared to be barren and destitute of inhabitants. Nor did our men observe such a number of birds about it as had been seen when they first discovered it. But they perceived some sea. otters, an animal which thej[ had not found to the north of this latitude. About twelve miles from Cape Upright, in the direc- tion of south 7*2 deg. west, stands a small island, whose lofty summit terminates in several pinnacle rocks, for which reason it obtained the name of Pinnacle Island. At two o'clock in the afternoon, after they had passed Cape Upright, they steered south-east by south, for Samganoodna, with a gentle breeze at north-nOrth-west, being resolved to lose no more time in searching for a harbour amon^ islands which Captain Cook nov, began to suspect had no existence, at least, not J' the latitude and longitude in which they have been placed by modern delineators of charts. On the Si4th, in the evening, the wind veered to south-west and south, and increased to a fresh gale. On Friday, the 2nd of October, at day-break, they saw the isle of Oonalashka, in a south-east direction ; but as the laud was obscured by a thick haze, they were not certain with respect to their situation till noon, when they observed latitude determined it. They hauled into a bay, ten miles to the westward of Sam- ganoodha, known by the appellation of Egoochshak ; but find- ing very deep water, speedily left it. The natives visited them at different times, bringing with them dried salmon, and other fish, which they exchanged with the sailors for tobacco. Only a few days before, every ounce of tobacco that remained in the ship liad been distributed among them, and the quantity was not he If builicient to answer their demands. Notwithstanding this, so thoughtless and improvident a being is an English sailor, that iUey were as profuse in making their bargains, as if they had arrived at a port in Virginia ; by which means, in less than two days, tlie value of this commodity was lowered above s thousand per cent* cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780* 437 The next day at ono o'clock, in the afternoon, they anchored in the harbour of Saraganoodha, and, on the morning of the 4th, the carpenters were employed in ripping off the sheathing of and under the wale of the Resolution on the starboard side. Many of the seams were found entirely open; it was, therefore, not to be wondered at, that so much water had got into the ship. They cleared the fish and spirit rooms, and the after-hold ; and disposed things in such a manner, that, in case of any future leaks of the same nature, the water might find its way to the pumps. Besides this work, and completing the stock of water, they cleared the fore-hold and took in a quantity of ballast. The vegetables met with when here before, were now, for the most part, in a state of decay. There being great plenty of berries, one-third of the people, by turns, had permission to go ashore and gather them. Considerable quantities of them were brought to us by the inhabitants. If there were any seeds of the scurvy among the people of either ship, these berries, and the use of spruce-beer, which they were allowed to drink every other day, effectually eradicated them. Our men procured abundance of fish ; at first, chiefly salmon, both fresh and dried, which the natives brought us. Some of the fresh salmon was in the highest perfection ; but there was one sort, which from the figure of its head, tiiey called hook-nosed, that was but indif- ferent. They drew the seine several times at the head of the bay, and caught a good many salmon-trout, and once a halibut that weighed two hundred and fifty-four pounds. They afterwards had recourse to hooks and lines. A boat was sent out every morning, which seldom returned without eight or ten halibut, a quantity more than sufiicient to serve all our people. These fiisb were excellent, and there were few who did not prefer them to salmon. Thus they not only obtained a supply offish for pre- sent consumption, but had some to carry with them to sea. Captain Cook received on the 8th, by the hands of a native of Oonalashka, named Derramoushk, a very singular present, considering the place he was in. It was a rye loaf, or rather a pie in the form of a loaf, for it enclosed some salmon highly sea- soned with pepper. This man brought a similar present for Cap- tain Gierke, aiid a note for each of the Captams, written in a character which none of them could read. It was natural to imagine, that these two presents were from some Russians now iii the neighbourhood, and therefore the captain sent, by the same messenger, to these unknown friends, a few bottles of rum, »vine, and porter, which they supposed would be very accept- able. Captain Cook also sent in company with Derramoushk, Corporal Lediard, of the marines, an intelligent man, for the purpose of gaining further information, with orders, that if he met with any Russians he should endeavour to make them lUKierstand, that they were Englishmen^ the friends and allies of their nation. k v 11 438 cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. On the 1 0th, Corporal Lediard returned with three Russian seamen, or furriers, who, with some others, resided at Egooch. shak, where they had some store-houses, a dwelling-house, and a sloop of about thirty tons burthen. One of these men waa either master or mate of the vessel : another of them wrote a verj' good hand, and understood figures ; and they were all three intelligent well-behaved men, and extremely ready to give our voyagers all the information they could desire. But, for want of an interpreter they had some difficulty to understand each other. Tliey appeared to have a perfect knowledge of tlie attempts which their countrymen had made to navigate the Frozen Ocean, and of the discoveries that had been made from Kamtschatka, by Behring, Tscherikoff, and Spanberg. But they had not the least idea to what part of the world Mr. Stachlin's map referred, when it was laid before them. When Captain Cook pointed out Kamtschatka, and some other places upon this map, they asked him whether he had seen the islands there represented ; and on his answering in the negative, one of them put his finger upon a part of the map, where a number of islands are laid down, and said, that he had cruised there in search ot land, but could never meet with any. The Captain then shewed them his own chart, and found that they were strangers to every part of the coast of America, except what lies opposite this island. One of these men said that he had been with Behring in his American voyage ; but must then have been very young, for he had not now, at the distance of thirty-seven years, the appearance of being aged. Never was greater respect paid to the memory of any eminent person, than these men paid to that of Behring. The trade in wliich they are engaged is very advantageous ; and its being undertaken and extended to the eastward of Kamt- schatka, was the immediate consequence of the second voyage of that distinguished navigator, whose misfortunes proved the source of much private advantage to individuals, and of public utility to the Russian empire. And yet if his distresses had not accidentally carried him to the island which bears his name, where he ended his life, and from whence the miserable remnant of his ship's crew brought back specimens of its valuable furs, probably the Russians wuuld never have undertaken any future voyages, which could lead them to make discoveries in this sea, toward the American coast. Indeed, after his time, their government seems to have paid less attention to this object ; and, for what dis- coveries have been since made, we are principally indebted to the enterprising spirit of private merchants, encouraged, how- ever, by the superintending care of the court of Petersburgh. The three Russians having remained all night with the com* modore, visited Captain Clerke the following morning, and then departed, very well satisfied with the reception they had met with. They promised to return in a few days, and bring withiheni a chart of the islands lying between Kamtschatka and Oonalashka. cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. 439 In the evening of the 14th, while Captain Cook and Mr. Webber were at a village, at a small distance from Samga- noodha, a Russian landed there, who proved to be the principal person among his countrymen in this and the adjacent islands. his name was Erasim GregoriofF Sin Israyloff. He arrived in a canoe that carried three persons, attended by twenty or thirty other canoes, each conducted by one man. Immediately after landing, they constructed a small tent for Ismyloft', of materials which they had brought with them, and they afterwards made others for themselves, of their canoes and paddles, which they covered with grass. Ismyloff having invited the Captain and Mr. Webber into his tent, set before them some dried salmon and berries. He appeared to be a man of sense ; and the Cap- tain felt no small mortification in not being able to converse with him, unless by signs, assisted by figures and other characters. The captain requested him to favour him with his company. on- board the next day, and accordingly he came with all liis attend- ants. He had, indeed, moved into the neighbourhood of their station, for the express purpose of waiting upon them. Captain Cook was in hopes of receiving from him the chart which his three countrymen had promised, but he was disap- pointed. However, Ismyloff, assured him he should have ii, and he kept his word. The Captain found him very well ac- quainted with the geography of these parts, and with all the dis- coveries which had been made in them by the Russians. On seeing the modern maps, he instantly pointed out their errors. He told the captain that he had accompanied Lieutenant Syndo (or as he called him Synd) in his northern expedition and according to his account, they did not proceed farther than the Tschukotskoi Noss, or rather than the Bay of St. Lawrence, for he pointed on their chart to the very place where Captain Cook landed. Fiom thence he went to an island in the latitude of 63 deg. north, upon which they did not land. He did not recollect the name of that island: but the Captain conjectured that it was the same with that to which the appellation of Clerke's Island had been given. To what place Synd repaired afterwards, or in what particular manner he employed the two years, during which, as Ismyloff said, his researches lasted, he was either unable or unwilling to state. Perhai)s he did not compre- hend their inquiries on this point ; and yet, in almost every other thing, our men found means to make him understand them. This incHned them to suspect that he really had not been in that exnedition, notwithstanding what he had asserted. Not only Ismyloff, but also the others affirmed that they were totally unacquainted with the American continent to the north- ward : and that neither Lieutenant Synd, lor any other Russian, had seen it of late years. They called it by the same name which Mr. Staehlin gives to his great island, that is, Alaschka. From what could be gathered from Ismyloff and his country- I I 440 cook's third voyage, 177ft 1780. fc '^g * men, the Russians have made several attempts to gain a footing upon that part of the North American continent that lies conti- guous to Oonalashka and the adjaceiit islands, but have always been repulsed by the natives, whom they describe as a very treacherous people. ITiey mentioned two or three captains, or chief men, who had been murdered by them ; and some of the Russians shewed us wounds which they declared they had received there. IsmjlofFalso informed our voyagers, that, in the year 1773, an expedition had been undertaken into the Frozen Ocean in sledges, over the ice, to three large islands, that lie opposite the river Kovyma. Captain Cook was in some doubt whether he did not mean the same expedition of which MuUer gives an account;* and yet he wrote down the year, and marked the islands on the chart. But a voyage which he said he himself had performed engaged our attention more than any other. He said that on the 12th of May, 1771, he sailed from Bolscheretzk, in Kamtschatka, in a Russian vessel, to Mareekan, one of the Kuril Islands, where there is a Imrbour, and a Russian settlement. From this ir'and he proceeded to Japan, where he seems to have made but a short stay ; for, when the Japanese came to know that he and his companions were Christians, they m?de signs for them to depart ; but did not, so far as our men could understand him, offer any insult or violence. From Japan he repaired to Canton, in China: and from thence, in a French ship to France. He then travelled to Petersburgh, and was afterwards sent out again to Kamtschatka. Our men could not learn what became of the vessel in which he first embarked, nor ♦vhat was the principal intention of the voyage. His being un- able to speak a word of the French language, rendered this story rather suspicious ; he seemed clear, however, as to the times of his arriving at the different places, and of his departure from them, which he put down in writing. The next morning, Friday the 16th, he offered Captain Cook a sea-otter skin, which, he said, was worth eighty roubles at Kamtschatka The Captain, however, thought proper to decline the offer ; but accepted of some dried fish, and several baskets of the lily, or saranne root. In the afternoon Ismyloff, after dining with Captain Clerke, left us with all his retinue, promis- ing to return in a few days. Accordingly, on the 19th, he paid another visit, bringing with him the charts before mentioned, « The latest expedition of this kind, taken notice of by Muller.was in 1724. But in j\utioe to Mr. Ismyloff, it may be proper to mention, which is done on the authority of A M. S. communicated by Mr. Pennant, and the substance of which has been pub- lished by Mr. Goxe, that, so late as 1768, the Oovernor of Siberia sent three young officers o>-«r the ice, in '.edges to the islands opposite the Kovyma. There seems no reason for not supposing, that a subsequent expedition of this sort might also be under. taken in 1773. Mr. Coxe, p. 324, places the expedition on sledges in 1764, but Mr. Pennant's At. S, may be depended upon. cook's third voyage 1776—1780. 441 which he permitted Captain Cook to copy ; and the contents of which are the foundation of the following remarks: — There were two of them, both manuscripts, and bearing every mark of authenticity. One of them comprehended the penschinskian sea ; the Coast of Tartary, as low as the latitude of 41 deg. north ; the Kuril Islands, and the peninsula of Kamt- schatka. Since this chart has been made, Wawseelee Irkee- fhoff, a naval captain, explored in the year 1758, the coast of Tartary, from Okotsk and the River Amur, to Japan, or 41 deg. of northern latitude. They were informed by Mr. Ismyloft', that a great part of the sea-coast of Kamtschatka had been corrected by himself, and he described the instrument used by him for that purpose, which must have been a theodolite. He also told them Uiat there were only two harbours fit for shipping on all the eastern coast of Kamstchatka, viz. the bay of Awatska, and the river Olutora, in the bottom of the gulph of the same name ; that there was not a single harbour on its western coast ; and that Yamsk was the only one, except Okotsk, on all the western side of the Penschinskian sea, till we come to the river Amur. The Kuril Islands contain but one harbour, and that is on the north-east side of Mareekan ; where, as they have already men- tioned, the Russians have a settlement. The other chart comprehended all the discoveries that the Russians iiad made to the eastward of Kamtschatka, towards America. That part of the American coast with which Tscheri- kofl'fell in, is laid down in this chart between the latitude of 58 deg. and 58i deg. north, and 75 deg. of eastern longitude, from Okotsk, or 2184 deg. from Greenwich ; and the place where Behring anchored, in 594 deg. of latitude, and 634 deg. of longi- tude from Okotsk, or 207 deg. from Greenwich. To say nothing of the longitude, which may, from several causes, be erroneous^ the latitude of the coast discovered by Behring and Tschericofl, particularly that part of it which was discovered by the latter, differs considerably from Mr. MuUer's chart. Whether the chart now produced by Ismyloff, or that of Muller, be most erroneous m this respect, it may be difficult to determine. * cording to Ismyloflf 's account, neither the number nor the situation of the islands, which were dispersed between 52 deg. and 55 dc.^. of latitude, in the space between Kamtschatka and America, is properly ascertained. He struck out about a third of them, assuring our people that they did not exist ; and he considerably altered the situation of others ; which he said was necessary, froir the observation which he himself had made ; there was no reason to entertain a doubt about this. As these islands are nearly under the same parallel, different navigators, misled by different reckonings, might easily mistake one island, or cluster of islands, for another : and imagine they had made a new dis- covery, when they had only found old ones, in a position somewhat different from tnat assigned to them by their former visitors. if ffi i( •HI 1 ;l: ! I 'I" 44d cook's third voyage, 1776—1780 The isles of St. Theodore, St. Stephen, St. Abraham, St Macarious, Seduction Island, and several others, which are represented in Mr. Midler's chart, were not to be found in this now produced to them : nay, Ismyloff and the other Russians assured Captain Cook, that they had been frequently sought for without effect. Nevertheless, it is difficult to believe, that Mr. Muller could place them in his chart without some authority. Captain Cook, however, confiding in the testimony of these Eeople, whom he thought competent witnesses, omitted them in is chart; and made such corrections respecting the othur islands, as he had reason to think were necessary. They then gave some account of the islands, beginning with those that lie nearest to Kamstchatka, and computing the longitude from the harbour of Petropaulowska, in the bay of Awatska. The first is Behring's Island, in 55 deg. of northern latitude, and 6 deg. of eastern longitude. Ten leagues from the south end of this, in the direction of east-by-south, or east- south-east, stands Maidenoi Ostroff, or the Copper Island. The next island is Atakou, in the latitude of 52 deg. 45 min., and in the longitude of 15 or 16 deg. This island is about eighteen leagues in extent, in the direction of east and west; and is perhaps the same land which Bi V.fing fell in with, and to which he gave the name of Mount St. John. They next came to a cluster of islands, two of which, Amluk and Atghka, are of considerable extent, and in each of them is a good harbour. The middle of this group lies in the latitude of 52 deg. 30 min., and 28 deg. of longitude from the bay of Awatska ; and its extent, east and west, is about four degrees. These are the isles that Mr. Ismyloff said were to be removed four degrees to the east, which was done. In the situation they have in Captain Cook's chart, was a group, comprehending ten little islands, which they were informed were wholly to be struck out ; and also two islands, situated between them and the group to which Oonolashka appertains. In the place of these two, an island named Amoghta, was introduced. The situation of many of these islands may, perhaps, be erro- neously laid down, but the position of the largest group, of which Oonalashka is one of the most considerable islands, is free from such errors. Most of the islands that compose this cluster were seen by them ; their longitude and latitude were therefore determined with tolerable accuracy, particularly the harbour of Samganoodha, in Oonalashka, which must be con- sidered as a fixed point. This group may be said to extend as far as Halibut Isles, which are forty leagues distant from Oonalashka, towards the east-north east. Within these isles a passage was marked in Ismyloff" 's charts, communicating with Bristol Bay, -vhich converts about fifteen leagues of the coast that Captain Cook had supposed to be part of the con- tinent, into an island named Ooueemak. This passage might cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. 44d braham, St , which are mnd in this er RussiaDj ^ sought for e, that Mr. e authority, •ny of these ted them in r the other ; beginning nputing the the bay of of northern agues from ith, or east- per Island. ;g. 45 min., id is about t and west; vith, and to ch, Amluk of them is he latitude he bay of r degrees, e removed ation they nding ten be struck the group e two, an be errO" Igroup, of slands, is kpose this lude were ilarly the be con- 10 extend int from lese isles ]micating ^s of the Ithe con- le might easily escape them, being, as they were informed, extremely narrow, shallow, and only to be navigated through with boats, or vessels of very small burthen. From tlie chart, as well as from the testimony of Ismyloff and his countrymen, it appears that this is as far as the Russians have made any discoveries, or have extended themselves, since the time of Behring. They all affirmed, that no persons of that nation had settled themselves so far to the eastward, as the place where the natives gave the note to Captain Gierke : which Mr. Ismyloff, to whom it was delivered, on perusing it, said, it had been written at Oomanak. From him we procured the name of Kodiak,* the largest of Schumagin's Islands: for it had no name assigned to it upon the chart which he produced. It may not be improper to mention, that no names were put to the islands which Ismyloff told them were to be struck out of the chart ; and Captain Cook considered this as some confirmation that they have no existence. The American continent is here called by the Russians, asi well as the islanders, Alaschka; which appellation, though it properly belongs to that part which is contiguous to Ooneemuk, is made use of by them when speaking of the American continent in general. This is all the intelligence they obtained from these people, respecting the geography of this part of the globe ; and, perhaps, this was all the information they were able to give ; for they repeatedly assured Captain Cook that they knew of no other islands, besides those which were represented upon this chart ; and that no Russian had ever visited any part of the American continent to the northward, except that which is opposite the country of the Tschutski. If Mr. Staehlin was not greatly imposed upon, what could induce him to publish a map so singularly erroneous, as his map of the New Northern Archipe- lago, in which many of these islands are jumbled together without the least regard to truth ? Nevertheless, he himself sty lea it " a very accurate little map." Mr. Ismyloff continued with our voyagers till the evening of the 21st, when he took his final leave. Captain Cook intrusted to his care a letter to the Lords of the Admiralty, enclosing a chart of all the northern coasts he had visited. Ismyloff said there would be an opportunity of transmitting it to Kamtsohatka, or Okotsk, in the succeeding spring ; and that it would be at Petersburgh the following winter. He gave the Captain a letter to Major Behm, Governor of Kamtschatka, who resides at Bulcheretsk in that peninsula, and another to the commanding officer at Petropaulowska. Mr. Ismyloffseemed to possess abilities that might entitle him to a higher station than that in which they found him. He had coisideiable knowledge in astronomy, and in the most useful * A Russian ship had touched at Kodiak in the year 177G. «l 1 iBiii H 1 iiK wk 1 ^ 'ffv'v Bk I nt IK ' : 1 '''iiu Wk ■ i 1 ;l Vv ' iS 444 COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE, 177G — 1780. |i V. i ! H -y :;l ' branches of the mathematics. Captain Cook made him a present of a Hadley's octant ; and though, perliaps, it was the first he had ever seen, he very quickly made himself acquainted with most of the uses to which that instrument can be applied. In the morning of the 22nd, the ships made an attempt to jjet to sea, with the wind at south-east, but did not ^succeed. In the afternoon of the 23rd they were visited by one Jacob Xvanovitch Soposnicoif, a Russian, who commanded a small vessel at Oomanak. This man had a great share of modesty^ and would drink no strong liquor, of which the other Russians, whom he had met with here, were extremely fond« He appeared to know what supplies could be obtained at the harbour of Petropau- lowska, and the price of the various articles, more accurately than JNIr. Ismyloii. But, by all accounts, every thing our men should have occasion to purchase at that place was very scarce, and bore a high price. This man informed them that he was lo be at Petropaulowska in the ensuing May ; and as was under- stood, was to have the charge of Captain Cook's letter. He seemed very desirous of haVing some token from the Captain to carrv to Major Behm ; and, to gratify him, the Captain sent a small spy-glass. After our men became acquainted with these Russians, several of our gentlemen, at different times, visited their setfle- ment on the island, where they always met with friendly treat- ment; this settlement consisted of a dwelling-house and two store-houses. Besides the Russians, there was a number of the Kamtschadales, and of the Oonalashkans, as servants, or slaves, to the former. Some others of the natives of this island, who aj)peared to be indiependent of the Russians, lived at the same place. Such of them as belonged to the Russians were all males ; and they are taken, or, perhaps, purchased from their parents when young. There was, at this time, about twenty of these, who could be considered in no other light than as children. They all reside in the same house, the Russians at the upper end, the Kamtschadales in the middle, and the Oonalashkans at the lower end, where is fixed a capacious boiler for preparing their food, which principallyconsists of fish, with the addition of wild roots and berries. There is no great difference between the first and last table, except what is produced by cookery, by which the Russians can make indifferent things very palatable. They dress whale flesh in such a manner as to make it very good eating ; and they make a kind of pan-pudding of salmon- roe, beaten up fine and fried, which is a tolerable substitute for bread. They may, now and then, taste real bread, or have a dish in which flour is an ingredient ; but this can only be an occasional luxury. If we except the juice of berries, which they generally sip at their meals, they drink no other liquor be.sides Eure water ; and it seems to be very fortunate for them that they ave nothing stronger. him a present he first he had ted with most 1. attempt to gtt ;ceed. In the )b Ivanovitch lall vessel at ity, and would ians, whom he eared to know of Petropau- >re accurately hiag our men B very scarce^ that he was to iis was tinder- 's letter. He the Captain to aptain sent a 1'. i r I I n i. s J t i>l ■> 3 A! ; ir. Ineasj nerha like i [sides I Ifur c(| Igoine^ iRussiJ I calic Isilk. Ibetwe^ llectinj [skins Itain Cc lupon C Ifonn Inatives prriers Iraet wit lin 1781, Asfo Ipearanc point of lized na Iwith wh( l4ether Idid not Inecessit; Ibring tli linilictcd Iduced tl Iharmon} jtheir ow jproperty ItheRusE Ireason ti The 1 ilump, ad thej laod long land cut The d Itiie only jfomen i lof birds; jdress of ♦ Accord Ito frequent cook's third voyage, 1776—1780. 44; As the island supplies them with food^ so it does in a great Imeasure with clothing. Tliis consists chiefly of skins, and is, [perhaps, the best they could have. The upper garment is made llike a waggoner's frock, and reaches as low as the knee. Be- Igides this, they wear a waistcoat or two, a pair of breeches, a Ifur cap, and a pair of boots, the legs of which are formed of Igoine kind of strong ^ut, but the soles and upper leathers are of iRussian leather. Their two chiefs, Ismyloff and Ivanovitch, wore la calico frock ; and they, as well as several others, had shirts of Isilk. Many Russians are settled upon all the principal islands [between Kamtschatka and Oonalashka, for the purpose of col- llecting furs. Their great object is the sea-beaver or otter ; but Igkins of an inferior value also make a part of their cargoes. Cap- Itain Cook neglected to inquire how long they had a settlement lupon Oonalashka and the neighbouring islands ; but if he might Iform our judgment on this point from the great subjection the Inatives are under, this cannot be of a very late date.* These liiimers are from time to time, succeeded by others. Those they Imetwith arrived here from Okotsk in 1776, and were to return In 1781. As for the native inhabitants of this island, they are, to all ap- [pearance, a very peaceable inoffensive race of people ; and in point of honesty, they might serve as a pattern to the most civi- iuzed nations. But, from what was seen of their neighbours, lith whom the Russians were unconnected, there is some doubt Mather this was their original disposition. Indeed, if our men Idid not misunderstand the Russians, they had been under the Inecessity of making some severe examples before they could Ibring the islanders into any order. If severities were really linilietcd at first, the best excuse for them is, that they have pro- Iduced the most beneficial effects ; and, at present, the greatest Ihannony subsists between the two nations. The natives have Itheir own chiefs in each island, and seem to enjoy liberty and ■property without molestation. Whether they are tributaries to Ihe Russians or not, our men could never learn ; but there was jreason to suppose tha* they are. The people of Oonalashka are rather low of stature, but Iplump, and well shaped. Their necks are commonly short, ad they have swarthy, chubby faces, black eyes, small beards, land long, straight, black hair, which the men wear loose behind, land cut before ; but the women tie it up in a bunch. I The dress of both sexes is the same with respect to fashion, Ithe only difference is in the materials. The frocK worn by the pomen is made of seal-skins, and that of the men, of the skins lof birds; both reach below the knee. This constitutes the whole jdress of the females. But, over the frock the men wear ano:her * According to Mr. Coxe, in bia account of tbe dkcoTcries of the Russian*, they begu« llo frequent Oonalashka in the year 1763. i t! f 446 cock's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. ;;? fc !! Jl^ ! made of j(ut, which water cannot penetrate ; it has a hood to if, which draws over the head. Some of them wear boots, .irul all of them liave a kind of oval-snouted cap, inade of wood, withsl rim to admit the heaci Tliey dye these t cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. 451 apon any of the islands, uor upon the neighbouring coast of the ■continent. I The seeds of the plants are said to be conveyed, by various Leans, from one part of the world to another ; even to islands jlying in the midst of extensive oceans, and far distant from any lother lands. It is therefore remarkable, that there are no trees I growing on this part of the American continent, nor upon any of the adjacent isles. They are doubtless as well situated for receiving seeds, by the various ways we have heard of, as those coasts which have plenty of wood. Nature has, perhaps, denied to some soils the power of raising trees without the assistance of art. With respect to the drift-wood upon the shores of these islands, we have no doubt of its coming from America ; for though there may be none on the neighbouring coast, a sufficient I quantity may grow farther up the country, which may be broken loose by torrents in the spring, and brought down to the sea. ; and not a little may be conveyed from the woody coasts, though they lie at a greater distance. Plants are to be found in great variety at Oonalashka. Several of them are such as they met with in Europe, and also in New- foundland, and other parts of America : and others of them, which are likewise found in Kamtschatka, are eaten by the na- tives both there and here. Of these, Krushcheninicoif has given us descriptions. The principle one is the saranne, or lily-root ; which is about the size of a root of garlic, round, and composed of a number of small cloves and grains ; when boiled, it some- what resembles saloop, and the .taste of it is not disagreeable. It does not appear to be in great abundance. Among the food of the natives we may reckon some other wild roots ; the stalk of a plant not unlike angelica ; and berries of difierent species, such as cran-berries, hurtle-berries, bramble- berries, and heath-berries ; besides a small, red berry, which, in Nev(ffoundland, is denominated partridge-berry; and another brown berry, with which our men were unacquamted. This has somewhat of the taste of a sloe, but is different from it in every other respect. When eaten in a considerable quantity it is very astringent. Brandy may be distilled from it. Captain Gierke endeavoured to preserve some ; but they fermented, and became as strong as if they had been steeped in spirits. There were a few other plants which they found serviceable, but are not made use of either by the Russians or the natives. These were pea-tops, wild purslain, a sort of scurvy-grass, cresses, and some others. All these were found very palatable, whether dressed in soups or in salads. The valleys and low- g^ruunds abound with grass, which grows very thick, and to a great length. Our men were of opinion that cattle might subsist at Oonalashka, all the year round, without being housed. The soil in many places appeared to be capable of producing grain and vegetables but at present the Russian traders and the t til 4::.! 452 cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. ,1* -■:? K^ 'i'i^*'. natives seem contented with the spontaneous productions ofl nature. Native sulphur was observed among the people of this island; as well as ochre, and a stone that affords a purple colour^ be- sides another that gives a good green: this la£>t, in its natural | state, is of a greyish, green hue, coarse, and heavy. It easilj dissolves in oU ; but when it is put into water, it entirely loses its properties. As for the stones about the shore and hills, there was nothing extraordinary in them. The Oonalashkans inter their dead on the tops of hills, and raise over the grave a httle hillock. One of the natives, wko attended Captain Cook in a walk into the country, pointed out several of these repositories of the dead. There was one of them, by the side of the road, over which \yas raised a heap of stones; and all who passed added a stone to it. In the country were seen several stone hillocks, that seemed to have been artilicially raised. Some of them were, to appearance, of great antiquity. Nothing was ascertained as to the uotiuns of these people respecting the Deity, and a future state ; or with regard to their diversions. Captain Cook having seen nothing that could give him any insight into either. The natives are extremely cheerful and friendly among each other, and they always treated our men with great civility. The natives are subject to the cancer, or a complaint of a simihr nature, which those whom it attacks, are very careful to conceal. They do not appear to be long lived, as not a person, man or woman, was seen who could be supposed to be sixty years of age ; and very few seemed to be above fifty. It has been occasionally mentioned, from the time of the arrival in Prince William's Sound, how remarkably the inhabi- tants on this north-western side of America resemble the Esqui- maux and Greenlanders in various particulars of person, dress, weapons, canoes, and the like. Captain Cook, was, however, less struck with this, than with the affinity subsisting between the dialects of the Greenlanders and Esquimaux, and ♦hose ol the Oonalashka and Norton's Sound. But it must be observed with respect to the words collected on this side of America, that too much stress is not to be laid upon their being accurately represented ; for, after the death of Mr. Anderson, the expedi- tion had few wlio took any great degree of pains about such matters ; and it has often been found that the same word, written down by two or more persons, from the mouth of the same na- tive, differed considerably, on being comi)ared together. Never- theless, enough is certain to authorize this judgment, that there i5 great reason to suppose that all these nations are of the same extraction ; and if that be the case, there is little doubt of there being a northern communication by sea, between the western side of America and the eastern side, through Baffin's Bay; which communication, however, is perhaps, efiectually shut up us productions COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE, 1776 — 1780 is". iix, and^Iioseof against ships, by ice and other obstnictions ; such, at least, uas Captain Cook's opinion at this time. I The tides in these parts are not very considerable, except in Cook's River. The flood comes from the south or south-east, following the direction of the coast to the north-west. Between Cape Prince of Wales and Norton's Sound they found a cur- rent setting towards the north-west, particularly off that cape, and within Sledge Island. Tliis current, however, extended but a little wjiy from the coast, and was neither consistent nor uniform. To the north of Cape Prince of Wales they observed neither tide nor current, either on the coast of America or that of" Asia. This circumstance gave rise to an opinion which some of our people entertained, that the two coasts were connected either by land or ice ; and that opinion received some degree of strength, from their never having any hollow waves from the northward, and from their seeing ice almost the whole way across. From the observations made during their continuance in the harbour of Samganoodha, its latitude is 53 deg. 5 min. north, and longitude 193 deg. 29 min. 45 sec. east. On Monday, the 26th of October, Captain Cook sailed from Samganoodha harbour, when the wind being southerly he stood to the westward, intending to proceed to the Sandwich Islands, in order to pass a few of the winter months there, if he should meet with the necessary refreshments, and then advance in his progress to Kamtschatka, so as to arrive there about the middle of May in the ensuing year. This being determined on, the commodore gave Captain Clerke instructions for proceeding, in case of separation ; Sandwich Islands being appointed for the first place of rendezvous; and for the second, Petropaulowska, in Kamtschatka. Having got out of the harbour, the wind veered to the south-east, with which they were carried to the western point of Oonalashka, by the evening. Here the wind was at south, and they stretched to the westward till the next morning at seven, at which time the ship wore, and stood to the east. The wind had now so greatly increased, as to reduce their ship to the three courses. It blew in heavy squalls, accompanied with rain, hail, and snow. At nine o'clock in the morning of the 28th, Oonalashka bore south-east, about four leagues distant. The strength of the gale was much abated, and towards the evening, insensibly veered round to the east, and soon after got to north-east, increasing to a very hard gale, attended with rain. At half past six, on the morning of the 29th, they discovered land, which was supposed to be the island Amoghta. At eight, the wind having veered to the westward, they could not weather the island, and gave over plj;ing ; bearing away for Oonalashka, in order to go the north of it, not daring, in so hard a gale of wind, to attempt a passage to the south-east of it. Wnen they bore away the land wax Ft l-f, If;? I ill •L 454 cook's third voyage, 1776-1780 '*« about four leagues distant. The longitude was 191 deg. 17 min, and the latitude 53 deg. 38 min. On the 2nd of November, the wind was at south, and, in the evening, blew a violent storm, which occasioned the ship to bring to. Several guns were fired by the Discovery, whicli were immediately answered. Captain Cook lost sight of her at j eight, and saw no more of her till eight the next morning. Slie joined at ten ; when, the height of the gale being over, and the wind having veered to north-north-west, they made sail, anj pursued their course to the south-ward. In the morning of Saturday the 7th, a shag or cormorant fleit often round the ship. As it is not common for these birds to go far out of the sight of land, it was supposed that there vm some at no great distance ; though they could not discover any, Having but little wind in the afternoon. Captain Clerke came on-board, and informed Captain Cook of a melancholy accident that happened on-board his slup the second night after they departed from Samganoodha. The main-tack gave way, killed one man, and wounded the boatswain and two or three others. In addition to this misfortune his sails and rigging received considerable damage on the 3rd, and he fired the guns as a signal to bring to. At noon, on the 12th, the wind returned to the northward, and veered to the east on the 15 th. At this time they saw a tropic- bird and a dolphin ; the first observed in their passage. On the the 17th, the wind was southward, where it continued till the afternoon of the 19th, when it was instantly brought round by the west to the north, by a squall of wind and rain. The wind increased to a very strong gale, and brought them under double- reefed topsails. In lowering the main top-sail in order to reef it, the force of the wind tore it out of the foot-rope, and it was split in several parts. They got, however, another topsail to the yard the next morning, and steered to the southward till the 25th, at day-light, when they were in the latitude of 20 deg. 55 min. The next morning, at day-break, land was discovered, ex- tending from south-south-east to west. They stood for it, and at eight o'clock it extended from south-east to west, the nearest part about two leagues distant. They now perceived that tliei discovery of the group of Sandwich Islands had been very im- perfect, tU ' .e which they had visited in their progress northward^ all lying to the leeward of the present station. An elevated hill appeared in the country, whose summit rose above the clouds. The land^ from this hill fell in a gradual slope terminating in a steep, rocky coast; the sea breaking against it in a most dreadful surf. Unable to weather the island, they bore up and ranged along the coast to the westward ; and now perceived people on many parts of the shore, and several houses and plantations. The country appeared to be well 'Ideg. I7minj id the ship (o »covery, vvhici, sight of her at morning. siJ oy/r, and the aade sail, anj | Jormorant flew Jse birds to go hat there was t discover any. I Gierke came sholy accident rht after they ^e way, killed 'three others, jng received ^e guns as a •rthward, and saw a tropic- »ge. On the oiued till the ht round by file wind ider double, •rder to reef f and it was opsail to the I'ard till the of 20 deg. cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. Abb upplied with wood and water, and streams were seen in various [laces falling into the sea. It being of the utmobt importance to procure a proper supply If provisions at these islands, which could not possibly be [ccomplished if a free trade with the natives were to be permit- ed, Captain Cook published an order, prohibiting all persons n-board the ships from trading, except those appointed by iinself and Captain Gierke ; and these were enjoined to trade nlv for provisions and refreshments. Injunctions were also jiid against the admittance of women into the ships, under cer- tain restrictions, but the evil, which was intended to have been rcvented by this regulation, had already got amongst tliem. About noon, the coast extended from south-east to north-west, he nearest above three miles distant, in the latitude of 20 deg. 9 min., and the longitude of 203. deg. 50 min. Some canoes ame off, and, when they got alongside, inany of the conductors of them came into the ship without hesitation. It was perceived tliat they were of the same nation as those islanders more to the leeward, which had already been visited, and, if the men did not mistake them, they knew of their having been there. The natives supplied them with a quantity of cuttle-fish, in exchange for nails and pieces of iron. They brought but little fruit or roots, but said that they had plenty of them on their island, as well as of hogs and fowls. The horizon being clear in the evening. Captain Cook supposed the westernmost land tliat he could see to be an island, distinct from that off which he now was. Expecting the natives would return the next day, with the produce of their island, the ship plied off the whole night, and Htood close in shore the next morning. At first they were visited but by few, but, towards noon, many of them appeared, bringing with them potatoes, tarro, bread-fruit, plantains, and small pigs, all of which were bartered for iron tools and nails. Captain Cook having few other articles to give them. The ship traded with them till about four in the afternoon, at which time they had disposed of all their cargoes ; and, not expressing any inclination to fetch more, they immediately made sail. On the 30th, in the afternoon, being off the north-east end of the island, some more canoes come off. These principally be- longed to a chief named Terreeoboo, who came in one of them. He made the commodore a present of two or three pigs ; and a little fruit was procured bv bartering with the other people. In about two hours they all left, except seven or eight, who chose to remain on-board. Soon after a double sailing-canoe arrived to attend upon them, which they towed astern the whole night. In the evening another island was seen to the windward, called by the natives Owhyhee. That which tliis ship had been off for some days, was called Mowee. At eight, in the morning, on the 1st of December, Owhyhee extended from south-east to south-west. Perceiving that tlie X5 i I !'f ::ll IH ■r, « m 456 cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. '*J_ ship could fetch Owhyhee, Captain CodIc stood for it, when theL visitors from Mowee thought proper to embark in their canwsl and went ashore. The ship spent the night standing off and oi)| the north side of Owhyhee. In the morning of the 2nd, to their great surprise, our menl saw the summits of the mountains covered with snow. TlioiiffJ they were not of an extraordinary height, the snow, in soiU places, appeared to be of a considerable depth, and to liavej remained tliere some time. Drawing near the shore, some ofl tlie natives approached who appeared a little shy at first, but our I men prevailed on some of them to come on board : and at lengtiil induced them to return to the island, to bring a supply of whatl was wanted. They brought a tolerable supply of pigs, fruit, an Eu.iii where it was. The swell, too, was extremely high, and set obliquely upon the shore, where it broke into a frightful surf. They had fine weather in the evening, and passed the night in making boards. Before day-break, on the 1st of January, 1779, the atmosphere was laden with heavy clouds ; and the new year was ushered in with a heavy rain. There was a light breeze southerly, with some calms ; at ten, the rain ceased, the sky became clear, and the breeze freshened. Being now about four or five miles from the shore, some ca- noes arrived with hogs, fruit, and roots. The sailors traded with the people in the canoes till three in the afternoon, when, being well supplied, they made sail, in order to proceed to the lee- side of the island, in search of the Discovery. The ship stretdv- ed to the eastward, till midnight, wIku tne wind was favour- able, and they went upon the other tack. The 2nd, 3rd, and 4th, were passed in running down the south-east side of the island, standing off and on during the nights, and employing part of each day in lying to, to give the natives an opportunity of trading with the men. They frequently came off at a distance of five leagues from the shore, but never brought much with them, at those times, either from a fear of losing their articles in the sea, or from the uncertainty of a market. The sailors procured a quantity of salt, of a most excel- lent quality. In the morning of the 5th the ships passed the south point of the island, in the latitude of 18 deg. 54 min. beyond which the coast tends north, 60 deg. west. On <^his point stands a pretty large village, the inhabitants of which thronged oif to the ship with hogs and women. The latter could not possibly be prevented from coming on board ; and they were less reserved than any women our men had ever seen. They seemed^, indeed, to have visited with no other view than to tender their persons. Having now got a quantity of salt, t'liey purchased only such hogs as were large nough for salting ; refusing all those that were under size. But they could seldom procure any that ex- ceeded the weight of sixty pouids. Happily they h'^d still some vegetables remaining, as they were now supplied with but few of these productions. Indeed, from the appearance of this part of tl e country, it seemed incapable of afiording them. Evident marks presented themselves of its having been laid waste by the explosion of a volcano : and though as yet nothing like one had been seen on the island, the devastation it had made in the neighbourhood was but too visible. Though the coast is sheltered from the reigning win is , it Iiad no anchorage; a line of a hundred and sixty fathoms not reaching the bottom, within half a mile of the shore. The na- tives having now left the ship, they ran a few miles down the coast in the evening, and pas.sed the night in standing off and on. They were^ the next morning^ "^ ;ain visited by the natives, i 10. hiffh, and set a fngiitful surf. ?ed the night in January, I779 id the new year 5 a light breeze eased, the sky hore, some ca- •rs traded with 1, when, being eed to the lee- le ship stretc.'v. d was favour- ing down the n during the o> to give the ey frequently y, but never Vom a fear of ertainty of a a most excel. 3uth point of id which the nds a pretty -he ship with prevented than any ed, to have IS. i only such 1 those that ny that ex- b'>d stiJl plied with earance of ding them, been laid et nothing tion it had cook's THIRD VOYAGE, 1776 — 1780. 461 who came laden with the same articles of commerce as before. Being not far from the shore. Captain Cook sent Mr. Bligh, in a boat, in order to sound the coast, and also to go ashore in search of fresh water. He reported, on his return, that, within two cables' length of the shore, he found no soundings with a line of one hundred and sixty fathoms ; that, on the land, he found no stream or spring; that there was some rain water in holes, upon the rocks, and even that was brackish from the spray of the sea; that the whole surface of the country was com- posed of slags and ashes, with a few plants interspersed. Between ten and eleven, the Discovery was seen coming round the south point of the island, and at one she joined. Captain Gierke then came on board the Resolution, and stated, that, having cruized four or five days where they were separa- ted, he jalied round the east side of the island ; where, meeting with unfavourable winds, he had been driven to some distance from tiie coast. One of the islanders continued on board the whole time, at his own request, having refused to leave the ship, though opportunities had presented themselves. The night was spent in standing off and on ; in the morning the ships stood in again, and were visited bj- many of the na- tives. At noon, the latitude was 19 deg. 1 rnin. and the longi- tude 203 deg. 26 min. ; the nearest part of the island two leagues distant. On the 8th, at day-break, they perceived that whilst plying in the night, the currents had carried them back consi- derably to windward ; and that they were now off the south-west point of the island, where they brought to, to enable the inha- bitants to trade with them. The night was spent in standii>g off and on. Four men and ten women, who came on board the preceding day, remained. The commodore not liking the company of the latter, stood in for the shore, on the 29th, about noon, solely with a view of getting rid of the guests ; when, some canoes coming off, he embraced that opportunity of sending them away. On the 10th, m the morning, they had light airs from north- west, and calms ; at eleven, the wind freshened at north-north- w'.ist, which so greatly retarded them, tliit, in the evening, at eight, tlie south snowy hill bore north, 14 deg. east. At four in the morning of the 11th, the wind being at weat, they approached the land, in expectation of getting some re- freshments. The natives seeing them so near, began to come off, and continued trading with them the whole day ; though they procured but a very scanty supply, many of those who came off in their canoes, not having a single thing to barter. From this circumstance, it appeared, that this part of the island was extremely poor, and had already furnished them with ' very thing they could spare. lUe 12th was employed in plying off and on, with a fresh galr at the west. A mile from tne shore they found ground^ at i- .iJ Ul 462 cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. the depth of fifty-five fathoms. At five, they stood to the soutli ward, and at midnight they had a calm. The next morning, at eight, they had a small breeze at south-south-east, and steered for the Jand. A. few canoes came off with some hogs, but they brought no vegetables, which were now much wanted. In the evening, they had got the length of the south-west point of the island, but, bjr the veering of the wind, they lost in the night all they had gained in the day. Being in the same situation the neict morning, some more canoes attended them ; but they brought nothing which they stood in need of. The ships were now des- titute of roots and fruit, and therefore obliged to have recourse to sea provisions. Some canoes, however, arrived from the northward, which supplied some hogs and roots. On the 15th they had variable light airs till five in the after- noon, when a breeze at east -north-east sprung up, and enabled them to steer along shore to the northward. The weather ^vas this day remarkably fine, and they had plenty of (^rca) many of whom continued on board all night, and thei.. (.\,i.ues were towed astern. On the 16th, at day-break, seeing the ap pearance of a bay, the commodore sent Mr. Bligh, with a boat from each ship, to survey it, being now about three leagues off. Canoes arrived from all quarters ; insomuch that, by ten in the morning, there were not fewer than a thousand about the two ships, most of them crowded with people, and well laden ^vith hogs and other provisions. Captain Cook was perfectly con- vinced of their having no hostile intentions ; not a single person having a weapon with him of any sort. Trade and curiosity were their only inducements to visit them. Among such num- bers as they had at times on board, it might be expected that some should betray a thievish disposition. One of the visitors took a boat's rudder from the shij) ; he was discovered, but too late to recover it. Captain Cook imagined this to be a good op- portunity to shew these islanders the use of fire-arms ; and two or three muskets, and as many four-pounders, were, by his orders, fired over the canoe which carried off the rudder. But, as the shot was not intended to take effect, the surrounding multitude were more surprised than frightened. Mr. Bligh, when he returned in the evening, reported, that he had found a bay with good anchorage, and fresh water, in a desirable situation. Into this bay the commodore determined to take his ships, in order to refit and supj»ly with refreshments. At the approach of night the most considerable part of the visitors retired to the shore ; but many, at their own earnest re- quest, were permitted to sleep on board. Curiosity, at least with some of them, was not the only motive ; for several ar- ticles were missing the next morning : in consequence of which, the commodore came to a resolution not to admit so man} on any future night. to the south morning-, at , and steered ' brought no the evening, if the island, light all they tion the neia hey brought ere now des- ave recourse ;d from the in the after- and enabled weather ,vas f o'(n)- .-, • hei.- Lviiues eing the ap. with a boat leagues off. t, by ten in )out the two laden uith rfectly con- igle person d curiosity such nuni- ected that le visitors d, but too good op- and two by his But, rounding ■ i er. rted, that ater, in a termined shments. rt of the rnest re- at least veral ar- f wliich, man} on 1 w f vn^ 1 I i wm cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. 463 fe... On the 17th, at eleven in the forenoon, they anchored in the bay (called by the natives Karakakooa), in thirteen fathoms' water, over a sandy bottom, within a quarter of a mile of the north-east shore. The south point of the bay bearing south by ^vest, and 'he north point west half north. After being moored, tlie ships continued much crowded with the natives, and sur- rounded by a vast multitude of canoes. In the course of their voyages they had no where seen such vast numbers of people assembled at one place. Besides those who visited in canoes, all the shore was covered with spectators, and hundreds were swimming about the ships, like shoals of fish. They were struck with the singularity of this scene ; and few lamented that they had not succeeded in their late endeavours to find a north- ern passage homeward. To this disappointment they were in- debted for revisiting the Sandwich Islands, and for enriching the voyage with a discovery, in many respects the most impor- tant that has been made by Europeans in the Pacific ocean. The bay of Karakakooa is situated in the district of Akona, on the west side of the island of Owhyhee. It is about a mile in depth, and is bounded by two points of land, bearing south- east and north-west from each other, at the distance of half a league. On the north point, which is flat and barren, stands the village of Kowrowa ; and in the bottom of the bay, near a grove of tall cocoa trees, there is another village of a more con- siderable size, called Kakooa ; between them runs a high rocky clifT, inaccessible from the sea shore. On the south side, the coast for about a mile inland has a rugged appearance ; beyond which the country rises with a gradual ascent, and is overspread with cultivated enclosures, and groves of cocoa trees, where the habitations of the people are scattered about in great numbers. Round the bay the shore is covered with a black coral rock, ex- cept at Kakooa, where there is a fine sandy beach, with a Morai at one extremity-, and a spring of fresh water at the other. They moored at the north side of this bay, and within a quarter of a mile from the shore. As soon as the inhabitants perceived an intention of anchoring in the bay, they came off in great num- bers, expressing their joy by singing, shouting, and the most extravagant gestures. The decks, sides, and rigging of both ships were covered with them. Women and boys, who were unable to pre cure canoes, came swimming round in shoals ; some of whom not finding room to get on board, amused them- selves the whiole day by playing in the v*ter. Among thv«^ chiefs, who visited the Resohition, was a young man named Pareea, who was soon perceived to be a person of great authority. He told Captain Cook that he was a Jakanee^ to the sovereign of the island, who was then on a military expe- dition at Mowee, and was expected to return in a few days. * They could not learn with certainty whether this was a name of office, or expres- lire of some degree of affinity. EL>i ^w W m . * 1 ■'' I >■ t64 cook's third voyage, 1776— -1780. 11^ Some presents from the commodore attached him to their inter, ests, and they found him exceedingly useful in the management of his countrymen, as they had soon occasion to experience. For they had not been long at anchor, when it was observed that the Discovery had so many people hanging on one side, that she heeled considerably ; and the jieople found it impos. sible to prevent the crowds from pressing into her. Captain Cook apprehensive that she might receive some injury, commu- nicated his fears to Pareea, who instantly cleared the ship of its encumbrances, and dispersed the canoes that surrounded her. From this circumstance, it appears that the chiefs have a most despotic authority over the inferior people. An instance, simi- lar to this, happened on board the Kesolution, where the crowd being so great as to impede the necessary business of the ship, it was found necessary to apply to Kaneena, another chief, who had also attached himself particularly to Captain Cook. The inconvenience they laboured under was no sooner mentioned than the chief orclered the natives immediately to quit the ves- sel ; when, without a moment's hesitation, they all jumped overboard, except one person, who, loitering behind, and shewing some unwillingness to obey, Kaneena took him up in his arms and threw him mto the sea. These two chiefs were exceedingly well proportioned, and had countenances remarkably pleasing. Kaneena, whose por- trait was drawn by Mr. Webber, was as fine a figure as can be seen. He was about six feet high, had regular and expressive features, with lively dark eyes ; his deportment was fP-sy, iSrm, and graceful. Mention has already been made that while they were cruizing oflF this island, the inhabitants had acted fairly and honestly, without manifesting ti e least propensity to theft ; which was the more remarkable, because those with whom they had hitherto had any dealing, were people of the lowest rank, such as fisher- men or servants. The case was now exceedingly altered. The multitude of islanders who blocked up every part of the ship, afforded opportunities of pilfering without danger of discovery, and even if detected, must have escaped with impunity from our inferiority in number. To the encouragement of their chiefs this alteration in their behaviour might also be attributed ; for, as they frequently traced the booty into the possession of some men of consequence, there is little doubt these depredations were ommitted at their instigation. S< u after the Resolution had got into her station, the two chieijj, Pareea and Kaneena, brought a tliird on-board, whose name was Koah, who, they were told, was a priest, and had been in his youth a distinguished wairior. He was a little, old man, of an emaciated figure, having sore, red eyes, and his body covered with a leprous scurf, occasioned by the immoderate us« cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. 465 of the kava. Being conducted to the cabin, he approached the commodore with the greatest deference, threw a piece of red cloth over his shoulders, and retreating a few paces, made an oflfering of a small pig, at the same time pronouncing a discourse of considerable length. During the stay at Owhyhee, this ceremony was repeated often, and appeared from many circumstances, to be a kind of religious adoration. Red cloth is an article with which their idols are arrayed, and a pig is their common offering to the Fatooas. Their speeches were delivered with a volubility that indicated them to be conformable to some ritual. At the conclusion of this ceremony, Koah dined with the com- modore, and ate plentifully of what was set before him ; but, like most of the islanders in these seas, he could scarcely be pre- vailed on to taste our wine or spirits a second time. In the even- ing the commodore, Mr. King, and Mr. Bayly, accompanied him on-shore. As soon as they landed on the beach, they were received by four men, bearing each a wand tipt with dog's hair, and marched before them pronouncing, with a loud voice, a short sentence, in which thev could only distinguish the word Orowo.* The crowd, which had assembled on the shore, retired at the approach of Captain Cook, and not an individual was to be seen, except a few lying prostrate on the ground, near the habitations of the adjacent village. Before relating an account of the peculiai ceremonies respect- ing the adoration paid to Captain Cook, it will be necessary to describe the Moral already mentioned, situated on the beach at Kakooa, it was a square, solid pile of stones, about forty yards long, twenty broad, and fourteen in height. The top was flat, and well paled, and surrounded by a wooden rail, on which were fixed the sculls of those captives sacrificed on the death of their diiefs. A ruinous, wooden building was situated in the centre of the area, connected with the rail on each side, by a stone wall, which divided the whole space into two parts. Hve poles, up- wards of twenty feet high supported an irregular kind of scaffold on the side next the country ; on the opposite side, towards the sea, stood two small houses^ with a covered communication. " Kuah conducted the officers to the top of this pile. At the entrance we saw two large, wooden images, with most distorted features, having a long piece of carved wood proceeding from the top of their heads, of a conical form inverted ; the rest was without form, and wrapped round with red cloth. Here Captain Cook was received by a tall young man, having a long beard, who presented him to the images, and after chanting a kind of hymn, in which he was assisted by Koah, was led to that side of * Captain Cock generally went by this name amongst the natives of Owhyhee ; but be could never learn its precise meaning. Sometimes they applied it to an invisible being, who, they said, lived iu the heavens. He also found that it was a title belong- ing to a personage of great rank and power in the island, who resembles pretty mucb tbe Delai Lama of the Tarttg'Sj and the ecclesiastical emperor of Japan. I 1 t i » ^ IJ V- A ^: i^ .';) V m I 466 WOK'S THIHO VOVAOE, I?76_,780. llVflfJ).; ^wll 'Mlffl if i ijM fl ^ fij iTi'tr 'HliJll i^lt fls »■ ^il'' ■^ B lill i the Morai where the „„ '"'"• alternately Th-f¥^?^'^'»«*^»»es in conc^f i*'^ ^^^n^'"^ ol Ipf fKTlf^'j ^'"*' lasted a considAraKi ? ^^ ^^« sometimes suimnrf*k .?' ™ '>™s, whilst MrV- '™''! Koah sun. ^J?^"«»^l manner; chffinTa, hS*"^^ *« > commodo^re smed^JI^"^^' '?«P«»«eM&peeK''^^"^ ^^ companions' thr/o' f ^^ gradually shorter afhfrf^ ^"^ responses/we ob- Others wl*"^^' to break the cocoa n"^^ "'^ 5"^ ^^^^^^ *« c"t up others were employed in breW the L.« i*" Peel vegetables'. mng tne /cava, by chewing it in the •r I cook's THrRD VOYAGE, 1776 — 1780. 467 ',1 same manner as at the Friendly Islands. Kaireekeea then chewed part of the kernel of a cocoa-nut, and wrapping it in a piece of cloth, rubbed the Captain's head, face, hands, arms, and shoulders. The kava was afterwards handed round, and when we liad all tasted it, Koah and Pareea pulled the flesh of the hog in pieces, and proceeded to put some of it into our mouths. Mr. King had no particular objection to being fed by Pareea, who was remarkably cleanly in his person ; but Captain Cook, to whom a piece was presented by Koah, could not swallow a mor- sel, the putrid hog being strong in his recollection ; and as the old man, from motives of civihty, had chewed it for him, his reluctance was much increased. " This ceremony being concluded, we quitted the Morai, after distributing among the populace some pieces of iron and other articles, with whicii they were much delighted. We were then conducted in pr(»cession to the boats ; the men with wands attending, and pronouncing sentences, as before. Most of the natives again retired, and the remaining few prostrated them- selves as we passed along the shore. " We went immediately on board, full of the idea of what we had seen, and perfectly satisfied with the good disposition of our new friends. Of the singularity and novelty of the various ceremonies performed upon this occasion, we can only form conjectures ; but thev were certainly highly expressive of re- spect on the part oi cne inhabitants ; and as far as related to the commodore they approached to adoration." Mr. King went on shore the next morning with a guard of eight marines, including the corporal and lieutenant, having orders to erect the observatory in such a situation as might best enable him tc superintend and protect the wat-^' rs and the other working parties that were to be on-shore. Observing a convenient spot for this purpose, almost in the centre of the vil- lage, Pareea immediately offered to exercise his power in their behalf, and proposed that some houses should be taken down, that their observations might not be obstructed. This generous offer, however, was declined, and they made choice of a potatoe field adjoining to the Morai, which was granted them most readily ; and, to prevent the intrusion of the natives, the place was consecrated by the priests, by placing their wands round the wall by which it was inclosed. This interdiction the natives call taboo, a term frequently re- peated by these islanders, and which seemed to be a word of extensive operation. In this instance it procured more privacy than could have been wished. No canoes ever attempted to land near them : the natives sat on the wall, but no one offered to come within the tabooed space till he had obtained their pemiission. But though the men, at their request, would bring provisions into the field, yet not all their endeavours could prevail on the women to approach them. Presents were tried, m t 468 cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. but without success. Attempts were made to prevail on Pareea and K.oah to bring them, but to no purpose ; the Eatooa and and Terreeoboo, they said, would kill them if they did. This circumstance afforded creat amusement on-board, whither multitudes of people (particularly women) continually flocked; insomuch that they were frequently obliged to clear the vessel, in order to have room to perform their necessary duties. On these occasions two or three hundred women were sometimes obliged to jump at once into the water where they continued to swim and play till they could be re-admitted. Pareea and Koah left them on the 19th of January, in order to attend Terreeoboo who had landed on a distant part of the island ; and nothing material happened on board till the 24th. The caulkers were employed on the sides of the ships, arid the rigging was carefully overhauled and repaired. The salting of hogs for sep .^tore was also a principal object of the commodore's attention , and as they had improved in this operation since the former voyages, it may not be improper to give a detail of the operation. To cure the flesh of animals in tropical climates, by salting, has long been thought impracticable ; putrefaction making so rapid a progress, as not to allow the salt to take effect before the meat gets tainted. Captain Cook appears to be the first na- vigator who has attempted id make experiments relative to this business. His first trials in 1774, during his second voyage to the Pacific Ocean, so far succeeded, as to convince him of the error of the received opinion. As his present voyage was likely to be i)rotracted a year beyond the time for which the ships had been victualled, he was obUged to contrive some method of pro- curing subsistence for the crews, or relinquish the prosecution of his discoveries. He, therefore, renewed his attempts, and the event answered his most sanguine exp'^ctations. The hogs they cured were of various sizes, from four to ten or twelve stone, fourteen pounds to the stone. They were al- ways slaughtered in the afternoon ; and, after scalding off the hair, and removing the entrails, the hog was cut into pieces, from four to e«ght pounds each, and the bones of the legs and chine taken out; and, in the larger sort, the ribs also. The {>ieces were then carefully examined and w ped, and the coagu- ated blood taken from the veins. After this they were given to the salters, whilst they continued warm, and, after thejr had been well rubbed with salt, placed in a heap, on a stage in the open air, covered with planks, and pressed with very heavy weight- . In this situation they remained till the next evening, when iiey were again well wiped and examined, and the suspi- cious parts taken away. This done, they were put into a tub of strung pickle, after which they were examined once or twice a daj[ ; and, if it happened that any piece had not taken the salt, which miji^ht be discovered by the smell of the pickle, they were ) COOK*S THIRD VOYAGE, 1776 — 1780. 469 Immediately taken out and re-examined, and the sound pieces put into fresh pickle. This, however, seldom happened. After feix days, they were taken out, examined for the last time, and king again slightly pressed, they were put into barrels, with a [thinlaye'' of salt between them. Mr. King brought home some barrels of this pork that had been pickled at Owhyhee, in January, 1779, which was tasted by several persons in England about IChristmas, 1780, who declared it to be perfectly sound and whole- Isome.* But to return from this digression. The oificers had not been on? settled at the observatory before they discovered the habi- Itations of a society of priests, who had excited their curiosity by their regular attendance at the Morai. Their huts were erected round a pond, enclosed within a grove of cocoa-trees, |by which they were separated from the beach and the village^ md gave the situation an air of religious retirement. Captain Cook being made acquainted with these circumstances^ he de termined to visit them ; and, expecting the manner of his recep tion would be singular, he took Mr. Webber with him, to make I a drawing of the ceremony. When arrived at the beach, he was conducted to Harre-no- j OronOy or the house of Orono. On his approaching this sacred place, he was seated at the foot of a wooden idol, resembling those which he had seen at the A/ora?. Here Mr. King again supported one of his arms ; he was then arrayed in red cloth, and Kaireekeea, accompanied by twelve priests, presented a jpig with the usual solemnities. After this ceremony, the pig was strangled, and thrown into the embers of a fire prepared for that purpose. When the hair was singed off, a second offer- ing was made, and the chanting repeated as before ; after which the dead pig was held for a short time under Captain Cook's nose; and then laid, with a cocoa-nut, at his feet. This part of tiie ceremony being concluded, the performers sat down, and the kava was brewed and handed about; a baked hog was brought in, and they were fed as in the former ceremony. I While in the bay, whenever the commodore came on shore, he was attended by one of these priests, who went before him giving notice that the Orono had landed, and ordering the people to prostrate themselves. He was constantly accom- ♦ Mr. Vancouver, who wa« one of the midshipmen in the Discovery, and was after- wards appointed lieutenant of the Martin sloop of war, tried the method here recom- mended, both with English and Spanish pork, during a cruise on the Spanish Main, in the year 17S2, and succeeded to the utmost of his expectations. He also made the ex- periment at Jamaica with the beef served by the Victualling Office to the ships, but not with the same success, which he attributes to the necessary precautions in killing and liaDdling the beasts ; to their being hung up and opened before they had sufficient time to bleed, by which means the blood-vessels were exposed to the air, and the blood con- densed before it had time to empty itself; and to their being hard driven and bruised. He adds, that having himself attended to the killing of an ox, which was carefully taken on board of the MarMn, he salted a part of it, which, at the end of the week, was found to have taken the .salt completely, and he has no doubt would have kept for iny length of time ; but the experiment was not tried. n I ■«i' 470 cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. panied by the same person on the water, where he was stationeij in the bow of the boat, having a wand in his hand, to give no tice of his approach to the natives, who were in canoes ; ori which they instantly ceased paddling, and fell on their faces i he had passed. Whenever he visited the observatory, Kairee. keea ana his assistants presented themselves before him, nmkintj an offering of hogs, bread-fniit, cocoa-nuts, &c. with the acciiv tomed solemnities. Upon these occasions some of the iniemrl chiefs entreated permission to make an offering to the Omiol When this was granted, they presented the hog them.selvejJ generally with evident marks of fear in their countenances ;[ whilst Kaireekeea and the priests chanted their accustomedl hymns. But the civilities of this society extended beyond parade andl ceremony ; the party on shore was daily supplied by them withl hogs and vegetables more than sufficient for their subsistence; and canoes laden with provisions were as regularly sent off inl the ships. Nothing was demanded in return, nor was the mostl distant hint ever given that any compensation was expected.! Their manner of conferring favours appeared more like the dis-l charge of a religious duty than to result from mere ^'berality.l On asking to whom they were indebted for all this ' 'ficencej they were informed that it was at the expense of Ka ..e chielj priest, and grandfather to Kaireekeea, who was then in tl^e suitej of the sovereign of the island. Our men had less reason to be satisfied with the behaviour ofl the warrior chiefs, than with that of the priests. In their inter-l course with the former, they were always sufficiently attentive I to their own interests: and, besides their propensity to steahiigj which may admit of palliation from its universality m those sea^J they had other practices equally dishonourable. The following I is one instance in which it was discovered, with regret, thatj their friend Koah was a party principally concerned. As the chiefs, who made presents of hogs, were always sent! back handsomely rewarded, the ships had generally a greater supply than they could make use of. A pig was one day pre- sented by a man whom Koah introduced as a chief, which they knew to be the pig that had a short time before been given to Koah. Suspecting they had been imposed upon, they found on further inquiry, that the pretended chief was one of the common people; and, from other concurrent circumstances, they were perfectly convinced that they had been the dupes of similar im- position. On Sunday the 24th, they were not a little surprised to find that no canoes were permitted to put off from the shore, and that the natives confined themselves to their houses. At length, however, they were informed that the bay was tabooed, and thatj all intercourse with them was interdicted, on account of the am-l val of Terreeoboo their king. Not apprehending an accident oil cook's third voyage, 1776—1780. 471 ^is kind, the ships were deprived leiretables. r "ri of their usual supply of The next morning, our men endeavoured, by threats and nromises, to induce the inhabitants to come alongside. At length some of them were venturing to put olF, and a chief was observed to be very active in driving them away. In order to ■make him desist, a musket was instantly fired over his head, Inhich had the desired effect, and refreshments were soon after |to be had as usual. In the afternoon the ships were privately visited by Terreeoboo, attended only by one canoe, which had his wife and family on board. Alter staying till almost ten o'clock, he returned to the village of Kowrowa. About noon the next day, the king, in a large canoe, attend- ed by two others, paddled from the village, m great state, to- v/ards the ships. Their appearance was grand and magnihcent.- Terreeoboo and his chiefs were in the first canoe, arrayed ia feathered cloaks and helmets, and armed with long spears and (lageers. In the second came Kaoo, the chief priest, and hi^ brethren, with their idols displayed on red r loth. These idols were busts of an enormous size, made of wicker-work, and curiously ornamented with small feathers of various colours. Their eyes were made of large pearl oysters, with a black nut Exed in the centre ; a double row of the fangs of dogs was fixed in each of their mouths, which, as well as the rest of their fea- tures, were strangely distorted. The third canoe was laden with hogs and vegetables. As they advanced, the priests, in the second canoe, chanted their hymns with great solemnity. After paddling round the vessels, they did not come on board, as was expected, but made immediately towards the shore, at the beach where our men were stationed. When Mr. King saw them ap- proaching, he ordered out the little guard to receive the king ; and Captain Cook, perceiving that he was going on shore, went thither also, and landed almost at the same time, ^fhey con- ducted them into the tent, where they nad scarcely been seated, when the king rose up, and in a very graceful manner threw over the captain's shoulders the rich feathered cloak he himselj wore, placed a helmet on his head, and presented him with curious fan. Five or six other cloaks, of great beauty and value, were spread at the commodore's feet. Four hogs were then brought forward by the king's atten< dants, together with bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, and sugar-canes. Then followed the ceremony of Terreeoboo's changing names mth Captain Cook : the strongest pledge of friendship amongst all the islanders of the Pacific Ocean. A solemn procession now advanced, consisting of priests, preceded bv a venerable old personage, followed by a train of people, leading large hogs ; others being laden with potatoes, plantains, &c. They could instantly perceiye by the countenance and gestures of Kaireekeea, that the 0I4 man who headed the propession wui Y2 21 ' I I )l I t m m I 'A ^ I: '. ) i! 473 cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780 I u the chief priest, on whose bounty they were told they had so| long subsisted. He wrapped a piece of red cloth round M shoulders of Captain Cook, and, in the usual form, preseotej him with a pig. He was then seated next the king, and Kairfe.! keea, and his attendants began their vocal ceremonies, Kaool and the chiefs joining in the responses. In the person of this king they were surprised to recognizej the same emaciated old man who came on board the Resohitio from the north-east side of the island of Mowee ; and they per.l ceived that several of his attendants were the same persons who I at that time remained with them all night. Among these wire the king's two youngest sons, the eldest about the age of sixteen; and Maiha-Maiha, his nephew, whom at first they could ncl recollect, having had his hair plastered over with a dirty brown I paste and powder, which was no mean heightening to the inost| savage countenance they had ever seen. Tlie formalities of the meeting being ended. Captain Cook I carried Terreeoboo, and as many chiefs as the pinnace could hold, on board the Resolution. 1 hey were received with every possible attention and respect ; and the commodore, in return for the feathered cloak, put a linen shirt upon the sovereign, and girt his own hanger round him. Kaoo, and about half a dozen old chiefs, remained on shore. All this tin?e not a canoe was permitted to appear in the bay, and those natives who did not confine themselves to tl '='ir huts, lay prostrate on the ground, Before the king quitted the Resolution, Captain Cook obtaineJ leave for the natives to come and trade with the ships as usual; but the women, for what reason they could not learn, were still inteiilicted bv the taboo ; that is, were forbidden to stir from home, or to have any kind of intercourse with them. The be- havio'ir of the inhabtants was so civil and inoffensive, that all apprehensions of danger were totally vanished, and they did not hesitate to trust themselves amongst them at all times, and upon all occasions. The otficerti ventured frequently up the country, either singly or in small parties, and sometimes con- tinued out the whole night. It would be endless to recount all the instances of generosity and civilitv which they experienced upon those occasions. In all places the people flockec: about them, anxious to afford every assistance in their power, and ap- peared liighly gratified if they condescended to accept of their services. Various little arts were practised to attract their no- tice, or to delay their departure. The boys and i^irls ran be- fore, as they walked through their villages, stopping at every opening where there was a commodious place to form a group for dancing. At one time they were solicited to take a draught of the milk of cocoa-nuts, or accept of such other refreshment as their huts afibrded ; at another they were encircled by a com- pany of young women, who exerted all their skill and agihtyto amuse them nith songs and dances. But though their gentle- cook's TinRD VOYAGE, 1776 — 178P» 473 iess and hospitality were pleasing to them^ they were addicced I stealing, like all the other islanders of these seas. This was [distressing circumstance, and sometimes obliged them to exer- jise severity, which they would have been happy to have avoid- [d, if it had not been essentially necessary. Some expert v'immers were one day detected under the ships, drawing out he filling nails from the sheathing, which they ingeniously per- bnned with a flint stone, fastened to the end of a short stick. I'o put a stop to this practice, which endangered the very exis- ence of the vessel, they at first fired small shot at the offenders ; U thf^y easily got out of their reach, by diving under the ship's bottom : it was therefore found necessary to make an example ty flogging one of them on boaid the Discovery. About this time a large party of gentlemen, from both ships, et out on an excursion into the country, in order to examine Its .i^.tural productions; an account of which will oe hereafter- pen. At present, however, we shall observe, that it afibrded Kaoo a fresh opportunity of shewing his civility and generosity. Tor as soon as he was informed of their departure, he sent after Jtliem a large quantity of provisions, with orders, that every at- Itention and assistance should be granted them by the inhabi- Itants of those districts through which they were to pass. His Iconduct, on this occasion, was so delicate and disinterested, Itliat even the people he employed were not permitted to accept. of the smallest present. At the end of six days, the gentlemen returned, without having penetrated more than twenty miles into the island ; owing partly to improper guides and partly to I the impracticability of ihe country. On the 27th the Resolution's rudder was unhung and sent I iishore, in order to undergo a thorough repair : the carpenters, I at the same time were sent into the country, under the guidance of some of Kaoo's people, to cut planks for the head rail-work, which was entirely rotten and decayed. Captain Gierke, whose ill health confined him for the most part on b'^ard, paid Terree- oboo his first visit on the 28th, at his habitation on shore. The ceremonies observed with Captain Cook were performed in ho nour of Captain Clerke ; and, on his return, he received a pre- sent of thirty large hogs, and such a quantity ot vegetables as could not be consumed by his crew in less than a week ; this was the more extraordinary, as it was qiiitt an unexpected visit. Not having seen any of their sports or exercises, the natives, on our request, entertained the crews in the evening with a boxing-match. Though these games were inferior, in every re- spect, to those exhibited at the Friendly Islands ; yet, as they were somewhat different, a short account of them may not be thought improper. "A vast concourse of people assembled on an even spot of ground, not far distant from our tents. — A long vacant spa " was left in the centre of them, at the upper end of which sat the judges, under three standards^ from which hung slips oi w " i 474 cook's third voyage 1776—1780. cloth, of various colours^ the skins of two wild geese^ son small birds, and a few bunches of feathers. " The sports being ready to begin, the judges gave the sk nal, and two combatants inimediatelv appeared. They advance! slowly, lifting up their feet very hign behind, and drawing thei hands upon the soles. As they came forward, they frequentjif surveyed each other from head to foot, with an air of contempU looking archly at the spectators, distorting their features, and practising a variety of unnatural gestures. Being advance! within the reach of each other, they held out both arms straigy before their faces, at which part all their blows were aimed] They struck with a full swing of the arm, which to us hadai very awkward appearance ; made no attempt to parry ; but eiy deavoured to elude their adversary's attack, by stooping, or reJ treating. The battle was quickly decided ; for if either of theml fell, whether by accident or from a blow, he was deemed van.) quished ; and the victor expressed his triumph by a variety ofl strange gestures, which usually excited, as was intended, al loud laugh among the spectators. The successful combataotl waited for a second antagonist ; and, if again victorious, foral third ; and so on till he was at last defeated. " It is very singular in these combats, that, when any two arei preparing to attack each other, a third may advance, and make] choice of either of them for his antagonist, when the other is under the necessity of withdrawing. If the combat proved long and tedious, or appeared unequal, a chief generally interfered, and concluded it by putting a, stick between the combatants. As this exhibition was at our desire, it was universally expected that some of us would have engaged with the natives ; but, though our people received pressing invitations to bear a part, they did not hearken to the challenges, not having forgot the blows th^y received at the Friendly Islands. '* William Watman, a seaman of the gunner's crew, died tliis day: this event is the more particularly mentioned, as death had hitherto been uncom.mon amongst us. He was a man in vears, and much respected for his attachment to Captain Cook. lie had served twenty-one years as a marine, after which he en- tered as seaman, in 1772, on board the Resolution, and served with the commodore in his voyage towards the South Pole. On their return he got admittance into Greenwich Hospital, through the interest of Captain Cook, at the same time with himself; and, anxious to follow the fortunes of iiis benefactor, he ?lso quitted it with him, on his appointment to the command of the present expedition. He had been often subject to light fevers, in the course of the voyage, and was infirm when we arrived in the bay, where, being sent on shore for a few days, he thought himself perfectly recovered, and, at his own desire, returned on board; but the day following he had a stroke of the palsy, which, in two days afterwards^ put a period to his life. % 1780. wild geese, son dgres gave the sk ct. IheyadvancS and drawing tki ^, they frequentj n air of contemnj heir features, J *»eing advance} oth arms straigM ows were aimed] hich to us hadi to parry; but en. stooping, or re. if either of them ras deemed van-f 1 by a variety off was intended, a Jssful combatant victorious, foral hen any two arel ance, andraakel [en the other is bat proved long rally interfered, combatants. As ly expected that s; but, thoiigli' I part, they did I the blows th'= crew, died tliis >ned, as death was a man in Captain Cook. r wliich he en- •n, and served uthPole. On Jpital, through with himself; actor, he{»lso mmand of the 3 light fevers, we arrived in s, he thought ■, returned on •f the palsy, C60fc*S TrtlAD VOYAGE. 1776—1780. 475 * At the request of Terreeoboo, tne remains of this honest eanian were buried in the Moral ; the ceremony being perfonn- td with great solemnity. Kaoo and his brethren were present kt the funeral, and preserved the most profound silence and at- tention whilst the service was reading. On our beginning to fill U the ^rave, they approached it with great awe, and threw in a (dead pig, together with some cocoa-nuts and plantains. For [three nights afterwards they surrounded it, sacrificing hogs and Irecitingliymns and prayers till day-break. "VVe erected a post at the head of the grave, and nailed Ithereon a piece of board, on which was inscribed the name and age of the deceased, and the day of his death. These they as- sured us they would not remove ; and they will probably be per- I niitted to remain as long as such frail materials will endure." The ships being in great vvant of fuel. Captain Cook desired I Mr. King to trett with the priests for the purchase of the rail on the Morai. Mr. King had some doubts about the decency of this proposal, and apprehended that the bare mention of it might be deemed impious ; but in this he was mistaken. They ex- pressed no kind of surprise at the application, and the wood was delivered without the least stipulation. Whilst taking it away, our people saw one of the natives with a carved image ; and upon inquiry, were informed, that the whole semi-circle (as mentioned in the description of the Morai) had been carried to the boats. Though the natives were spectators of tliis business, , they did not seem to resent it ; but, on the contrary, had e\ eu assisted in the removal. Mr. King thought proper to speak to Kaoo on the subject, who seemed very -ire rent about the matter, begging him only to restore the centre image ; which was immediately done, and it was conveyed to one of the priest's hoiises. TeiTeeoboo and his chiefs had for some time been ver > inqui- sitive to know the time of the ships' departure. Mr. King's cu- riosity was excited, from this circumstance, to know the opinion these people had entertiined of our men, and what they sup- posed to be the objects of the voyage. He took consideral d pains to satisfy himself on these points ; but the only informa tion he could get was, that they supposed they had left their na- tive country on account of the scantiness of provisions, and had visited them for the sole purpose of tilling their bellies. This conclusion was natural enough, considering the meagre appear- ance of some of the crew, the voracity with which they devour- ed their fresh provisions, and the anxiety to purchase as much of it as they were able. One circumstance may be added to these, which puzzled them exceedingly, that of our men having no women with them. It was matter of entertainment to see the natives patting the bellies of the sailors (who were much improved in sleekness since their arrival in the bay) and telliug them, in the best man T 1' I [^ ^ ' Yd. ' 1 1 ' y ' [s W : r 11 < i 476 cook's third voyage, 1776—1780. 1 1 li ner they could, that it was time for them to depart ; but, if theJ would return the next bread-fruit season, they should be bettetl able to supply them.^ The ships had now continued sixteen! days in the bay, during which time the consumption of hogjl and vegetables had been so enormous, that it need not excite! surprise at their wishi^ to see them take leave. It is veiy pro.! bable, however, that Terreeoboo had no other view, in his in.! quiries, than a desire of having sufficient notice, to prepare suit.l able presents at their departure; for, when they informed him of their intention to qwf the island in two days, a kind of pro. clamation was immediately made, requiring the natives to bring in their hogs and vegetables, for the king to present to tiie Orono on his departure. At the beach, the men were this day much entertained with the buffooneiies of one of the natives. In his hand he held an instrument of music, such as has been already described ; some ' bits of sea-weed were tied round his neck ; afid round each leg a piece of strong netting, on which a great number of dog's teeth were loosely fastened in rows. His dancing was accom- panied with strange grimaces, and unnatural distortion of the features ; which, mough sometimes highly ridiculous, was, upon the whole, without meaning or expression. ^ Mr. Webber made a drawing of this person ; the manner in which the maro is tied, the figure of the instrument, and of the ornaments round the legs, which, at other times was seen used by tneir dancers. W'restling and boxing matches afforded diversion for the even- ing ; and our men in return, exhibited the few fire-works they had remaining. Nothing could more effectuallv excite the ad- miration of these islanders, or strike them with more exalted ideas of our superiority, than such a representation. Though tliis was, in every respect much inferior to that made at Hapaee, yet the astonishment of the people was equally great. The carpenters who had been sent up the country to cut planks for the head rail-work of the Resolution, had now been gone three days: and, not having beard from them. Captain Cook began to be alarmed for their safety, and expressed his apprehensions to old Kaoo, who appeared equally concerned; but while planning measures with him for sending proper per- sons after them, they all arrived safe. Thev had gone further into the country than they expected, before they found any trees suitable for their purpose ; and it was this circumstance, together with the baldness of the roads, and the difiiculty of conveying the timber to the ships, that had detained them so long. They bestowed high commendations on their guides, who not only supplied them with provisions, but faithfully protected their tools. " The 4th of February being fixed for the ships departure, Terreeoboo invited Captain Cook and Mr. King to attend him, on the 3rd, to Kaoo's residence. On our arrival there, we saw large quantities of cloth lie scattered on the ground; abun cook's third voyage, 1776—1780. 477 dance of red and yellow feathers, fastened to the hbres of cocoa- nut husks ; and plenty of hatchets and iron-ware, which had been received from us in barter. Not far from these was depo- sited an immense quantity of various kinds of vegetables ; and, at a littie distance, a large herd of hogs. We suppo. d, at first, that the whole was intended as a present for us ; but we were informed by Kaireekeea, that it was a tribute to the king from the inhabitants of that district. And we were no sooner seated, tlian the bundles were brought, and laid severally at Terreeoboo's feet ; and the cloth, feathers, and iron, were displayed before him. The king was perfectly satisfied with this mark of duty from his people ; and selectecl about a third of the iron utensils, a third of the feathers, and some pieces of cloth ; he ordered these to be set aside by themselves ; and the remainder of the cloth, hogs, vegetables, &c. were afterwards presented to Cap- tain Cook and Mr. King. The value and magnitude of this pre- sent far exceeded any thing they had met with. The whole was immediately conveyed on board. The large hogs were selected, in order to be salted for sea store ; but the smaller pigs, and the vegetables, were divided between the crews. "We left the Moral, and got our observatories on board. The taboo was removed, and with it its magical effects. As soon as we had quitted the place the people rushed in, and vi- gilantly searched it, hoping to find some valuable articles left behind. Mr. King being the last on shore, and waiting for the return of the boat, the inhabitants crowded about him, and hav- ing prevailed on him to sit down among them, expressed their regret at our separation. It was even with difficulty that they would suffer him to depart. He vvas, indeed, highly esteemed among them ; for, having had, while we were in the bay, the command of the party on shore, he became more acquainted with the natives, and they with him, than those who were re- quired to be on board. He experienced great kindness and civility from the inhabitants in general, but the friendship shewn by the priests was constant and unbounded. On his part he spared no endeavours to conciliate their esteem ; in which he ko happily succeeded, that, when they were acquainted with the time of our departure, he was urged to remain behind, and re- ceived offers of the most flattering kind. When he excused himself, by alleging, that Captain Cook would not permit it; they proposed to conduct him to the mountains, and there con- ceal him till the departure of the ships. On Mr. King's assuring them that the Captain would not sail without him, the king and Kaoo waited upon Captain Cook, (whose son they supposed he was) formally requesting that he might be suffered to remain be- hind. The commodore unwilling to give a positive refusal to a proposal so generously intended, assured them, that he could not then part with niin ; but he should return thither the next Year, when he would endeavour to oblige them. Y 5 478 cook's TFirRD VOYAGE, 1776 — 1780. 1 Hi H l^nH: 1 ** On Thursday the 4th of Febniaiy, early in the morning, we unmoored, and the Resolution and Discovery sailed out of the bay, attended by a vast number of canoes. It was Captain Cook's intention to finish the survey of Owhyhee before he went to the other islands, hoping to meet with a road more sheltered tlian Karakakooa Bay ; and, if he should not succeed here, he Tiieant to examine the south-east part of Mowee, where he had I been informed there was a most excellent harbour. On the 5th, and the following day, we had calm weather, and consequently our progress was but slow. A great number of the natives fof. lowed us in their canoes ; and Terreeoboo gave an additional I) roof of his esteem for the commodore by sending after him a arge present of hogs and vegetables. Having a light breeze, in the night of the 5th of February, we made some progress to the northward; and, on the 6th, in the morning, we were abreast of a deep bay, which the natives call Toeyae-yah. We had great hopes of finding a commodious harbour in this bay, as we saw some fine streams of water to the north-east ; and the whole appeared to be well sheltered. — ^These observations agreeing with the accounts given us by Koah, who accompanied Captain Cook, and had changed his name out of compliment to us into Britannee, the master was sent in the pinnace, with Koah as his guide, to observe and examine the bay." The weather became gloomy in the afternoon, and such violent gusts of wind blew off" the land, that the ships were obliged to take in all the sails, and bring to under the mizen stay-stail. The cfuioes all left as soon as the gale began ; and Mr. Bligh, on his rtrturn, had the satisfaction of saving an old woman and two men whose canoe had been overset in the storm. Several wo- men remained on board, whom the natives in their hurry to de- |)art, had left to shift for themselves. Mr. Bligh reported, that he had landed at a village on the north side of the bay, where he was shewn some wells of water that would not by any means answer the purpose ; that he after- wards proceeded further into the bay, where, instead of meet- ing with good anchorage, he found the shores were low, and a flat bed of coral rocks extended along the coast upwards of a n)ile from the land ; the depth of water, on the outside, being twenty fathoms. ^During this survey, Britannee had contrived to slip away, being, perhaps, afraid of returning, as his infor- mation had proved erroneous. The weather became more moderate in the evening, and the ships again made sail ; but it blew so violently about midnight as to split the fore and main-top sails. They bent fresh sails in the morning of the 7th, and had a light breeze, and fair weather. Being now about four or five leagues from the shoie, and the w eather very unsettled, the canoes would not venture off, so that the guests were under the necessity of remaining with them, though much against their inclination ; for they were ... ex* cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. 479 ceedingly sea-sick, and many of tliem had left young children 1 behind them. Though the weather continued squally, the ships stood in for I the land in the afternoon ; and, bein>? within three leagues of it, they saw two men in a canoe, paddling towards them. Thev naturally conjectured that they had been driven oft" the shore by the late violent gale ; and stopped the ship's way, in order to take them in. They were so exhausted with fatigue, that had not one of the natives on-board jumped into the canoe to their assistance, they would hardly have been able to fix it to the rope thrown out for that jiurpose. With difficulty, however, they got them up to the ship's side, together with a child about four years of age, which had been lashed under the thwarts of the canoe, with only its head above the water. They informed the crew that they had quitted the land the morning before, since which time they had not had food or water. Provision was given them with the usual precautions, and the child entrusted to the care of one of the women ; and the next morning they were all perfectly recovered. A gale of wind coming on at midnight, they were obliged to double reef the tcp-sails. At day-break, on the 8th, they found that the fore-ma ''^ had again given way ; the fishes bemg sprung, and the part, .o very de- fective, as to make it absolutely necessary to unstep the mast. C^aptain Cook, for sometime, hesitated whether he should re- turn to Karakakooa, or take the chance of finding a harbour in the islands to leeward. The bay was not so commodious, but that a better might probably be met with, both for the purpose of repairing the masts, and for procuring refreshments, of which, it was imagined, the neighbourhood of Karakakooa had lately been pretty well drained. It was, on the other hand, considered as too great a risk to leave a tolerably good harbour, which, once lost, could not be regained, for the mere possibility of meeting with a better ; especially as the failure of such a contingency might have deprived them of any resource. They stood on towards the land, to give the natives on-shore an opportunity of releasing their friends onboard ; and, about noon, when within a mile of the shore, several canoes came off, but so loaded with people that no room could be found in them for any of the guests; the pinnace was therefore hoisted out to land them ; and the master who commanded it, was instructed to examine the south coasts of the bay for water, but returned without success. Variable winds, and a strong current to the northward, re- tarded their progress in return ; and, early in the morning of the 10th, in a heavy squall, the Resolution was close in with the breakers to the north^vard of the west point of Owhyhee. She had just room to a-void them, and fired several guns to alarm the Discovery, and apprize her of the danger. The weather in the forenoon was more moderate, and a fev/ 4K0 cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. I' I' ; ! canoes ventured to come off, when those on-board them informed I our people that much mischief had been occasioned bv the late I storms, and that a great many canoes had been lost. They kept beating to the windward the remainder of the day ; and, in the evening, were within a mile of the bay ; but stooa off and on till day-light the next morning, when they anchored in their old station. The whole of the 11th, and part of the 12th of February, they were engaged in getting out the foremast, and conveying it on- shore. Not only the head of tiie mast had sustained damage, but the heel was become exceedingly rotten, having a very large I hole in the middle of it. As these repairs were likely to take up several days, Mr. King and Mr. Bayly got the observatory on- shore, and pitched their tents on the Moral, guarded by a cor- poral and six marines. A friendly intercourse was renewed with the priests, who, for the greater security of the workmen and their tools, tabooed the place where the mast lay, sticking their wands round it as before. The sail-makers were also sent on-shore to repair the damages in their department, sustained by the late heavy gales. They occupied an habitation, lent by the priests, ac^oining to the morai. '^ Our reception, on coming to anchor, was so different from what it had been at our first arrival, that we were all astonished: no shouts, bustle, or confusion, but a solitary deserted bay, with hardly a canoe stirring. Their curiosity, indeed, might be sup- posed to be diminished by this time ; but the hospitable treat- ment we had continually been favoured with, and the friendly footing on which we parted, indv^ed us to expect that, on our return, they would have reci^ived us with the greatest demonstrations of joy. " Various were our conjectures on the cause of this extraordi- nary appearance, when the whole mystery was unravelled by the return of a boat, which we had sent on shore, bringing intelli- gence that Terreeoboo was absent, and that the bay was tabooed. This account appeared very satisfactory to many of us ; but others were of an opinion, that there was, at this time, something very suspicious in the behaviour of the natives, and that the taboo or interdiction, on pretence of Terreeoboo's ab- sence was artfully contrived to give him time to consult his chiefs in what manner we should be treated. We never could ascertaiii whether theso suspicions were well-founded, or whether the natives had given a true account. It is probable, indeed, that our sudden return, for which they could assign no apparent cause, might create alarms in them ; yet the conduct of Terreeo- boo, who, on his supposed arrival the next morning, immediately waited on Captain Cook, and the natives, from Uiat mom( nt, renewing their friendly intercourse with us, seemed to evince that they neither meant, nor apprehended, a^ different kind of conduct. An account of another accident, similar to this, may ^80. rd them informedl pned bv the kJ lost. They kept iav ; and, in the odoffandontillf red in their old 'February, they conveying it on. tamed damage, ing a very large I kely totakeupi »bservatory on. arded by a cor- 5 was renewed if the workmen tst lay, sticking were also sent t, sustained by on, lent by the different from all astonished; rted bay, with night be sup- jpitable treat- the friendly )ect that, on the greatest lis extraordi- ivelled by the iging intelli- le bay was to many of at this time, natives, and eoboo's ab- consult his never could , or whether ble, indeed, no apparent of Terrceo- inmedialely it moment, 1 to evince nt kind of this, may cook's third voyage^ 1776 — 1780. 481 be mentioned in support of this opinion, which happened to us on our first visit, the day before the king's arrivaJ. A native having sold a hog on-board the Resolution, and received the price agreed on, Pareea, who saw the transaction, advised the I seller not to part with his hog without an advanced price. For his interference in this business he was harshly spoleea to and pushed away ; and as the taboo was soon laid on the bay, we at first supposed it to be in consequence of the affront offered to the chief. " These two circumstances considered, it is extremely difficult to draw any certain conclusion from the actions of a people with whose language and customs we are so imperfectly acquainted. Some idea, however, may be formed of the difficulties those have to encounter, who, in their intercourse with these strangers, are obliged to steer their course in the midst of uncertainty, where the most serious consequences may be occasioned by only imaginary offences. Whether these conjectures are erroneous or true, it is certain that things were conducted in their usual quiet course till the 13th of February, in the afternoon. " At the approach of evening on that day, the commander of the Discovery's watering-party came to inform Mr. King that several chiefs were assembled near the beach, and whefe driving away the natives who assisted the sailors in rolling the casks to the shore : at the same time declaring that their behaviour seemed exceedingly suspicious, and that he imagined they would give him some further disturbance. He sent a marine with him, agreeable to his request, but permitted him to take only his side-arm3. The officer in a short time returned, and informed Mr. King, that the inhabitants had armed themselves with stones and were become tumultuous. He, therefore, went himself to the spot, attended by a marine, with his musket. At their approach the islanders threw away their stones ; and, on Mr. king's application to some of the chiefs, the mob was dispersed. Every thing being now quiet, Mr. King went (o meet Captain Cook, wiio was then coming on-shore in the pinnace. He related to him what had recently happened, and received orders to lire a ball at the offenders, if they again behaved insolently, and began to throw stones. In consequence of these directions, Mr. King gave orders to the corporal, that the sentinels' pieces should be loaded with ball, instead of shot. " On our return to the tents, we heard a continued fire of muskets from the Discovery ; which we perceived to be directed at a canoe, which was hastening towards the shore, with one of our small boats in pursuit of it. This firing, we concluded, was the consequence of some theft, and Captam Cook ordered Mr. King to follow him with a marine armed, and to endeavour to seize the people as they landed. They accordingly ran to the place where the canoe was expected to come ashore, but did not arrive in time : the people having quitted it, and fled into the M M •i^ r %t ^■ — -.St 483 cook's third voyage, 1776—1/80 country before their arrival. At this time they did not know that the goods had been already restored; and thinking jt probable^ from what they had observed, that they might be of im. portance, they did not choose to rehnquish their endeavours to recover them ; and having inquired of the natives what course the people had taken, they pursued them till it was almost dark, when they supposed themselves to be about three milen from the 1 tents, and thinking the islanders amused them with false infor- mation in their pursuit, they gave up the search and returned. '*^ A difierence of a more serious nature had happened during their absence. The oificer who had been dispatched in the small boat after the thieves, and who was returning on-board with the booty that had been restored, seeing Captain Cook and Mr. King engaged in pursuit of the oiFenders, seized a canoe which was drawn up on the shore. This canoe, unfortunately, belonged to Pareea, who, at this instant arriving from on-board the Discovery, claimed his property, and protested his inno- cence. The officer persisted in detaining it, in which he was encouraged by the crew of the pinnace, then waiting for Captain Cook ; in consequence of which a scuffle ensued, and Pareea was knocked down by a violent blow on the head with an oar. Several of the natives, who had hitherto been peaceable specta- tors, began now to attack our people with such a shower of stones, that they were forced to a precipitate retreat, and swam off to a rock, at a considerable distance from the shore. The pinnace was plundered immediately by the natives, and would nave been entirely demolished, if Pareea had not interposed, who had not only recovered from his blow, but had also forgot it at the san^e instant. He ordered the crowd to disperse, and beckoned to our people to come and take possession of the pin- nace; and afterwards assured them that he would use his in- fluence to get the things restored which had been taken out of it. After their departure, he followed them in his canoe, carrying them a midshipman's cap, and some other articles of the plun- der ; and expressing much concern at what had happened, begged to know if the Orono would kill him, and whether he might be permitted to come on-board the next day. He Avas assured that he would be well received, and therefore joined noses with the officers, (their usual token of friendship) and paddled over to Kowrowa. " Captain Cook, when these particulars were represented to him, was exceedingly concerned ; and, when he and Mr. King were returning on-board, he expressed his fears that tliese islanders would oblige him to pursue violent measures ; adding, they must not be permitted to suppose that they have gained an advantage over us. It was then, however, too late to take any steps that evening; he therefore only gave orders that every islander should be immediately turned out of the ship. This order being executed, Mr. King returned on-shore ; and the so y did not knoj ^nd flunking jt might be of im. r endeavours lo ^es what course ^as almost dark ' mileo from the With fhJse infor. ' and returned Ppened durin? patched in the ■ning on-board 'tain Cook and •eized a canoe iinfortunateh, from on-boani 'ted his inno- which he was \g for Captain J, and Pareea ^ with an oar. 5eable specta- 1 a sliower of at, and swam ishore. The ii, and would t interposed, d also fori^ot hsperse, and n of the pin- wse his in- ^en out of it. )e, carrying if the pJun- happened, whether he [. He was "ore joined dship) and cook's third voyage 1776— -1780. 483 events of the day having much abated our former confidence in !i« natives, a double guard was posted on the Morai, with ■orders to kt Mr. King know if any men wore hirking about Ithe beach. At eleven o'clock, five of the natives were seen Icreeping round the bottom of the Morai t they approached with Igreat caution, and at last perceiving they were discovered, im- mediately retired out of sight. About midnight one of them ventured himself near the observatory, when a sentinel fired over him ; on which they all fled, and we had no farther disturb- ance during the remainder of the night. At day-light the next morning Mr. King went on-board the Resolution, in onier to get the tiine-keeper ; and in his way thither was hailed by the Dis- covery, and received information that their cutter liad, some time in the night, been stolen from the buoy where it had been I moored. " On Mr. King's return on board, he found the marines were arming themselves, and Captain Cook busied in loading his double-barrelled gun. Whilst he was acquainting him with what had happened in the night at the Morai, he eagerly interrupted him, and informed him of the loss of the Discovery's cutter, and of the preparations he was making to recover it. It was his usual practice in all the islands of this ocean, when any thing of con- sequence had been stolen from him, by some stratagem, to get the king, or some of the principal Erees, on-board ; where he detained them as hostages till the property was restored. This method having hitherto proved successful, he meant to adopt it on the present occasion ; and gave orders to stop every canoe that should attempt to leave the bay ; resolving to seize and de- stroy them if the cutter could not be recovered by peaceable means. In pursuance of which, the boats of both ships, properly manned and armed, were stationed across the bay ; and, before Mr. King quitted the ship, some great guns were fired at two canoes that were attempting to escape. " Between seven and eight o'clock. Captain Cook and Mr. King quitted the ship together ; the former in the pinnace with Pitillips, and nine marines : and the latter in the small boat. The last orders Mr. King received from Captain Cook were, to quiet the minds of the people, on his side of the bay, by the strongest assurances that they should not be injured ; to keep his people together, and to be continually on his guard. Captain Cook and Mr. Kitig then separated ; the Captain going towarda Kowrowa, where Terreeoboo resided ; and Mr. King proceeded to tiie beach. His first business, when he arrived on shore, was to issue strict orders to the marines to continue within the tent, to charge their muskets with ball, and not on any consideration to quit their arms. He then attended old Kaoo and the priests, at their respective huts, and explained to them, as well as he was able, the reason of the hostile preparations which had so exceed- inglv alarmed them. He found they were no strangers to the cir- 484 COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE, 1776-1780. -...«« YuiAUE, 1776 — 1780 ?»' side, 6ad n,.t .h^ i.?"? ■" "■? ^habitants of th« vTiili"""' hend ihe hJlZ'Z.T^TV'^ l-^ ^'''^ed^fe;" cominuni,:ate this ta .I,/ ■' "? importuned the nri.".??" tain the least idea o^fetr ffr "'';""'=" 'hem not^":;' „' Kaoo interrogated MrKin'L ^th ^"1" P^^^^^ble and ^ -" bofte'"a„d tr^P «~ dTir,"h'eJer ^«™ ^y for ?hL'°. "" '"^Se of the wj° %T *''"' «P »!«»« the wShin ll. . .L? Pa««' «w> lieutemmrj "e populace mailing wrthn about thirty yard, of rSe'Sre T?rr? 'i; " ''"' Th^ «u 1- wnere lerreeoboo was I tie old kiiig continued all this timo .u '*"' ^''"^ o» the ground, bearing cook's thihd voyage, 1776 — 1780. 485 the most visible marks of terror and dejection in his counte- nance. Captain Couk^ unwilling to abandon tiie object which occasioned him to come on-shorn, urved him most earnestly to proceed; whilst, on the other hand, if the king expressed 'iny inclination to follow him, the chiefs, who surrounded him, inter- posed ; at first they had recourse to prayers and entreatier,. out afterwards to force and violence, and even insisted on his re- maining on-shore. Captain Cook, at length, perceiving that the alarm had spread too generally, and that there was not a pro- bability of getting him off without much bloodshed, gave up the point J at the sane time observing to Mr. Phillii)8, that, to com- pel him to go on-board would probably occasion the loss of many of the lives of tlie inhabitants. " Notwithstanding ihis enterprise had now failed, and waa abandoned by Captain Cook, yet it did not appear that his per- son was in the least degree in danger, till an accident happened nliich occasioned a fatal turn to the affair. The boats, stationed across the bay, having fired at some canoes that attempted to get out, unfortunately killed one of their principal chiefs. In- telligence of his death arrived at the village where Captain Cook then was, just as he had parted from the king, and was proceed- ing with great deliberation towards the shore. The ferment it iininecliately occasioned was but too conspicuous ; the women and children were immediately sent away, and the men were soon clad in their war-mats, and armed with spears and stones. One of the natives, having provided himself with a stone, and a long iron spike, (^called by the natives a pahooa) advanced to- wards the captain, nourishing his weapon in defiance, and threatening to throw the stone. The Captain requested him to desist ; but the islander repeating his menaces, he was highly provoked, and fired a load of small-shot at him. Tlie man waa shielded in his war-mat, which the shot could not penetrate : his firing therefore served only to irritate and encourage tnem. VoUies of stones were thrown at the marines ; and one of the Erees attempted the life oi Mr. Phillips with \i\s pahooa ; tut^ not succeeding in ti ^ attempt, he received from hint) a blow with the butt end of his piece. Cfaptain Cook immediate ly discharged his second barrel, loaded with ball, and killed rne of the most violent of the assailants. A general attack with stones succeeded, which was followed on our part by a dJscharge of musketry, not only from the marines, but also from the people in the boats. The natives, to our great astonishment, received our fire with great firmness : and without giving time to the marines to charge again, they rushed in upon them with dreadful shouts and yells. What followed was a scene of horror and confusion, which can be more easily conceived than properly related. ^' Four of me markies retreated among the rocks, and fell a sacrifice to the fury ol the enemy ; three others were dangerously wounded ; and the lieutenant stab))ed between the shoulders " 486 Cook's thirI) voyage. 1776—1780. ''5r with a pahooa,' but having fortunately reserved Lis fire, shot the man from whom he had received the wound, at tu? instant he was preparing to repeat the blow. The last time our unfortu- nate Commodore was distinctly seen, he was^ standing at the water's edge, and ordering the boats to cease firing, and pull in, " It was imagined by some of those who were present, that the marines^ and those who were in the boats, fired without Cap. tain Cook's orders, and that he was arix.'ous to prevent the further effusion of blood ; it is therefore probable, that, on this occasion, his humanity proved fatal to him ; for it was observed, that while he faced the natives, no violence had been offered to him, but, when he turned about, to give directions to the boats, he was stabbed in the back, and fell with his face into the water. A general shout was set up bv the islanders on seeing him fall, and his body was dragged inhumanly on shore, where he was surrounded by the enemy, who, snatching the dagger from each other's hands, displayed a savage eagerness to Join in his destruction. *' Such was the fate of our most excellent Commander ! After a life distinguished by such successful enterprises, his death can hardly be re .;koned premature ; since he lived to accomplish the great work for which he seemed particularly designee! ; being rather removed from the enjoyment than the acquisition of glory. How sincerely his loss was lamented by those who owed their security to his skill and conduct, and every consolation to his tenderness rnd humanity, it is impossible to describe ; and the task would be equally difficult to represent the horror, dejec- tion, and dismay, which followed so dreadful and unexpected a catastrophe." It has already been obse. ved that four of the marines, who ac- companied Captain Cook were killed by the natives on the spot. The others with their lieutenant, Mr. Fhillips, Arew themselves into the sea, and made their escape, being prote ".ted by a smart fire from the boats. On this occaision, a striking instance of gallant behaviour, and of a^ection for his men, was displayed by Mr. Phillips ; for !.. Iwd scarcely got into the boat, when, seeing one of the marines, who was not a very expert swimmer, strug- gling in the water, and in danger of benig taken by the islanders, he instantly leaped into the sea to his assistance, though consider- ably wounded himself; and, after receiving a blow on his head from a stone, which had almost sent him to the bottom, he caught the marine by the hair, and brought him off in safety. Our people ;or some time kopt up a constant fire from the boats, (which, during the whole transaction, were at no greater dis- tance from the land than twenty yards), in order to afford their unfortunate compa\iions, if any of them should still rrmain alive, an opportunity Jl etlecting their escape. These continued efforts, seconded by a few guns that were at the same time fired from the Reslution, having at length compelled tiie natives to 1780. pved Lis fire, shoti and, at tu^ instantl time our unfortuj » standing at the tiring, and puJlij, I vere present, thatf ired without Cap.I revent the further) on this occasioni 8 observed, thai 5n offered to himj to the boats, he e into the water » seeing him fall, B, where he was ' logger from each i ' to join in his imander! After | ?s, his death can ) accompHsh the lesigned; being, acquisition of those who owed J^ consolation to describe ; and B horror, dejec- d unexpected a irines, who ac- es on the spot. ew themselves ^ J>y a smart ig instance of displayed by when, seeing immer, strug- the islanders, iigh consider- V on his head ? bottom, he off in safety. im the boats, greater dis- afford their rinain alive, continued ke time fired natives to cook's third voyage, 1776—1780. 487 retire, a small boat, manned by five midshipmen, pulled towards the shore, where they perceived the bodies lying on the ground, ! without any signs of life. However, they judged it dangerous to attempt to bring them off with so inconsiderable a force : and their ammunition being nearly consumed, they returned to the ships, leaving the bodies in possession of the natives, together with ten stand of arms. When the general consternation, which the news of this misfor- tune had diffused throughout the whole company of both ships, had in some degree subsided, their attention was called to the party at the Moral, where the mast and sails were on shore^ guarded by only six marines. It is difficult to describe the emo- tions that agitated the niinds of Mr. King and his attendants, at this station, during the time these occurrences had been carrying on at the other side of the bay. Being at the distance only of a mile from the village of Kowrowa, they could distinctly perceive a vast multitude of people collected on the spot where Captain Cook had just before landed. They heard the firing of the muskets, and observed an uncommon bustle and agitation among the crowd. They afterwards saw the islanders retreating, the boats retiring from the shore, and passing and repassing with great stillness between the ships. Mr. King's heart soon misgave him on this iccasion. Where so valuable a life was concerned, he could not avoid being alarmed by such new and threatening appear- ances. Besides this, he knew that Captain Cook, from a long series of success in his transactions with the natives of this ocean, had acquired a degree of confidence, which might, in seme ill-fated moment, put him too much off his guard ; and Mr. King now saw all the dangers to which that confidence mi^ht lead, without deriving much consolation from the consideration of the experience which had given rise to it. His first care, on hearing the report of the muskets, was to assure the islanders, considerable numbers of whom were assembled round the wall of our consecrated field, and seemed at a loss how to account for what they had heard and seen, that they should meet with no molestation ; and that, at all events^ he was inclined to continue on peaceable terms with them. Mr. King and his attendants remained in this situation, till the boats had returned on board, when Captain Clerke perceiving, by means of his telescope, that the party were surrounded by natives, who, he thought^ designed to attack them, ordered two four pounders to be fired at the islanders. These guns, though well-aimed, did no mischief; but they gave the natives a con- vincuig proof of their powerful effects. A cocoa-nut tree, under which some of them were sitting, was broken in the middle by one of the balls ; and the other shivered a rock which stood in an exact line with them. As Mr. King had just before given them the strongest assurances of their safety, he was extremely mortified at this act of hostility ; and, to prevent its being re- .; I| I ' n 488 cook's TmRD VOYAGE. 1776—1780. peated, instantly dispatched a boat to inform Captain Gierke^ that he was at present on the most amicable terms with the islanders, and that, if any future occasion should arise for changing hjj conduct towards them, he would hoist a jack as a signal for Captain Gierke to alTord him his assistance. Mr. King waited the return of the boat with the greatest im. Eatience : and after remaining for the space of a quarter of an our, under the utmost anxiety and suspense, his fears were at length confirmed by the arrival of Mr. Bligh, with orders to strike the tents immediately, and to send on board the sails that were repairing. At the same instant Kaireekeea having also re- ceived mformation of the death of Captain Cook, from a native who had arrived from the other side of the bay, approached Mr. King with great dejection and sorrow in his countenance, inquiring if it was true. The situation of the party at this time was highly critical and important. Not only their own lives, but the issue of the expedition, and the return of at least one of the ships, were in- volved in the same common danger. They had the mast of the Resolution and the greater part of the sails on-shore protected by only half a dozen marines. The loss of these would have been irreparable ; and though the islanders had not as yet testified the smallest disposition to molest the party, it was difficult to an- swer for the alteration, which the intelligence of the transaction at Kowrowa might produce. Mr. King therefore thought pro- to dissemble his belief of the death of Captain Cook, and to desire Kaireekeea to discourage the report ; apprehending that either the fear of resentment, or the successful example of their countrymen, mi^ht perhaps lead them to seize the favour- able opportunity which at this time presented itself of giving the crews a second b' jw. He, at the same time, advised him to bring old Kaoo and the other priests into a large house adjoin- to the Moral y partly from a regard to their safety, in case it should have been found necessary to have recourse to violent measures ; and partly from a desire of having him near our people, in order to make use of his authority with the natives, i it could be instrumental in maintaining^ peace. Mr. King having stationed tlie marines on the top of the Morai, which formed a strong and advantageous post, intrusted the command to Mr. Bligh, who received the most positive di- rections to act solely on the defensive, went on-board the Discovery, in order to confer with Captain Gierke on the dan fe'erous situation of their affairs. He had no sooner left the spot than the islanders began to annoy our people with stones ; and just after he had reached the ship, he heard the firing of the marines. He therefore hastily returned on shore, where he found affairs growing every moment more alarming. The na- tives were providing arms, and putting on their mats ; and their numbers augmented very fast. He also observed several large 1 Gierke, that I the islanders, changing his I a signal for | greatest im. uarter of an fears were at ith orders to ;he sails that ving also re- nm a native approached ountenance, ghly critical issue of the ps, were in- mast of the 3 protected d nave been testified the Rcult to an- transaction ought pro- >ok, and to nding that xample of e favour- of giving led him to ise adjoin- n case it o violent Inear our latives, if [►p of the intrusted ^itive di- ^ard the the dan |the spot ?s; and of the he lena- |d their 11 cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. 489 dies advancing towards our party along the cliff by which s village of iGikooa is separated from the north side of the , where Kowrowa is situated. they at first attacked our people with stones from behind the walls of their inclosures, and meeting with no resistance they soon became more daring. A few 'courageous fellows having crept along the beach, under cover of the rocks, suddenly pre- sented themselves at the foot of the Moral, with an intention of storming it on the side next the sea, which was its only acces- sible part ; and they were not dislodged before they had stood a considerable quantity of shot, and had seen one of their number I fall. The courage of one of these assailants deserves to be recorded. I Having returned with a view of carrying oiF his companion, amidst the fire of the whole party, he received a wound, which obliged him to qu^, the body and retire ; but a few minutes afterwards he again made his appearance, and, receiving another Nvonnd, was under the necessity of retreating a second time. At that moment Mr. Kin^ arrived at the Moraij and saw this man return a third time, famt from the loss of blood and fatigue. Being informed of what had hapjpened, he forbade the soldiers to fire ; and the islander was sunered to carry off his friend, which he was just able to accomplish ; and then fell down him^ self, and breathed his last. A strong reinforcement (rom both ships having landed about this time, the natives retreated behind their walls ; which afford- ing Mr. King access to the priests, he sent one of them to exert his endeavours to bring his countrymen to some terms, and to propose to them, that if they would desist from throwing stones, he would not allow our men to fire. This truce was agreed to, and our people were suffered to launch the mast, and carry^ off the sails, astronomical instruments, &c. without molestation. As soon as our party had quitted the Momi, the islanders took possession of it, and some of them threw a few stones, which, however, did no mischief. Between eleven and twelve o'clock, Mr. King arrived on- board the Discovery, where he found that no decisive plan had been adopted for the regulation of their future proceedings. The recovery of Captain Cook's body, and the restitution of the boats, were the objects which, on all hands, was agreed to in- sist on ; and Mr. King declared it to be his optinion, that some vigorous methods should be put in execution, if the demand of them should not be instantly complied with. Though it may justly be supposed that Mr. King's feelings, on the death of a beloved and respected friend, had some shore in this opinion, yei thtre were doubtless other reasons, and those of the most serious nature, that had some weight vnth him. The confidence which the success of the natives in killing the com- mander and obliging the ships to leave the shore^ must naturally M r 1 ' » ' 1,. 1 1 ' i 1 rt 1 *■' ? Kf i>< I § i 490 cook's third voyage, 1776—1780. m m hav« inspired ; and the advantage, however inconsiderable, whiclil they had gained over our men the preceding day, would, he hadl no doubt, excite them to make further dangerous attempts ; anjl the more particularly, as they had no great reason, from whatj they had hitherto observed, to dread the effects of our fire-annsT This kind of weapon, indeed, contrary to the expectations ofl all, had produced in them no signs of terror. On our side, suchj was the condition of the vessels, and the state of discipline! among the crew, that had a vigorous attack been made duringl the night, the consequences might perhaps have been highlyl disagreeable. Mr. King was supported, in these apprehensions, f by the opinion of the greater part of the officers on board; and! nothing seemed to him more likely to encourage the islanders to I make the attempt, than ti e appearance of being inclined to| an accommodation, ^ hich they could only impute to weaknesi or to fear. On the other hand it was urged, in favour of more conciliatory I measures, that the mischief was already done, and was irrepar- able ; that the natives, by reason of their former friendship and kindness had a strong claim to their regard ; and the more par- ticularly, as the late calamitous accident did not appear to be a premeditated design ; that, on the part of Terreeoboo, his igno ranee of the theft, his willingness to accompany Captain Cook on-board the Resolution, and his having actually sent his two sons into the pinnace, must rescue his character in this respect from the smallest degree of suspicion ; that the behaviour oihis women and the chiefs might easily be accounted for, from the apprehensions occasioned in their minds by the armed force with which Captain Cook landed, and the hostile preparations in the bay ; appearances so unsuitable to the confidence and friendship in wliich both parties had hitherto lived, that the arming of tiw islanders was manifestly with a design to resist the attempt, which they had some reason to expect would be made^ to carry off their sovereign by force, and was naturally to be expected from a people who had a remarkable affection for their chiefs. To these dictates of humanity other motives of a pnidential kind were added ; that the ships were in want of a supply of water and other refreshments — that the Resolution's foremast would require seven or eight days' work before it could be stepped — that the spring was advancing very fast— that the speedy prosecution of the next expedition to the northward ought now to be the sole object ; and that, therefore, to engage in a vindictive contest with the natives, might not only sub- ject our men to the imputation of needless cruelty, but would require ^reat delay in the equipment of the ships. Captain Clerke concurred in the latter opinion ; and though Mr. King was convinced tV at an early and vigoroti' display of cue resentment would have more e^ectually answered every cook's third voyage, 177C— 1780. 491 [)biect (Ooth of prudence and humanity, he was upon the whole, [lot sorry that the measures he had recommended were rejected. ?or, though the contemptuous behaviour of the islanders and lie subsequent opposition to the necessary occupations on-shore, arising most probably from a misconstruction of lenity, obliged our men at last to have recourse to violence in their own de- fence; yet he was not certain that the circumstances of the case vould, in the opinion of the generality of people, have justified [the use of force on our part in the first instance. While thus engaged in concerting some plan for future [operations, a very numerous concourse of the natives still kept Ipcssession of the shore : and some of them coming off in canoes, lapproached within pistol-shot of the ships, and insulted the Icrew by various marks of defiance and contempt. It was ex- Itremely difficult to restrain the seamen from the use of their arms Ion these occasions ; but, as pacific measures had been resolved Ion, the canoes were allowed to return unmolested. Mr. King was now ordered to proceed towards the shore with [the boats of both ships, well manned and armed, with a view of bringing the islanders to a parley ; and of obtaining, if possible, a conference with some of the Erees. If he should succeed in this attempt, he was to demand the dead bodies, and particularly that of Captain Cook; to threaten them, in case of a refusal, k.th resentment; but by no means to fire, unless attacked; and not to go on shore on t."y account whatever. These in- structions were delivered to Mr. King before the whole party in I the most positive manner. Mr. King and his detachment left the ships about four o'clock in the afternoon ; and, as they approached the shore, they per- ceived every indication of a hostile reception. The natives were all in motion; the women and children retiring; the men arming themselves with long spears and daggers, and putting on their war mats. It also appeared that, since the morning, they had thrown up breast-works of stone along the beach where Captain Cook had landed, in expectation, perhaps, of an attack at that place. As soon as our party were within reach> the islanders began to throw stones at them with slings, but without doing any mis- chief. Mr. King concluded from these appearances, that all attempts to bring them to a parley would be ineffectual, unless he gave them some ground for mutual confidence ; he therefore ordered the armed bo?>ts to stop, and advanced alone in the small boat, holding in his hand a white flag ; the meaning of which, from an universal shout of joy from the natives, he had the satisfaction to find v> as immediately understood. The women instantly returned from the side of the hill, whither they had re- tired ; the men threw off their mats, and all seated themselves together at '^e sea side, extending their arms and inviting M^. Kiogtoland. ? i [I I ^- 492 cook's third voyage, 1776- -1760. ■r- ip i? I loj'" «l 'TIiQugh sQoli behayioui; 9eeinjed eis^pi-e^siiveji^f ,a positiojQij he^ could not ; avoid entertainijng, , i^^p^i9. sincerity, jfiut ,wJiien h,^ ^aw Koah, wiJtbt' eiXjtii^^ardu^fi^j}!; . , and assurance, swimming oft towards the boat,' witK a|«[l in his hand, be thought proper to reiturn this na;^k,p£^|f(i( and a<;cordingly Teceived him into Ibe boai^^ tfio,i$y^ Ijie armed ; a circumstance which did not contt^b^te jiJO^sfen 51 King's suspicions. He had, indeed, long narbotiJ^a|a{i unf vourable opinion of Koah. The priests had'a^'way^ representi him as a person of a malicious temper, and lio friend to oi men ; and the repeated detections of ms fraud and treachery convinced him of the truth of their assertions. Besides, tb] melancholy transactions of the morning, in which he was see Eerforming a principal part, inspired Mr. King with the utnoi orror at finding himself so near him ; and as he approachei him with feigned tears, and embraced him, Mr. Kin^ was 30j distrustful of his intentions, that he took hold of the pomt ofm pahooa, which the chief held in his hand, and turned it froij liim. He informed the islander that he had come to demaQl the body of Captain Cook, and to declare war against the na-j lives, unless it was restored without delay. Koah assured hioi this should be done as soon as possible, and that he would g9 himself for that purpose ; and after requesting a piece of iron oil Mr. King, with marks of great assurance. He leaped into#] the water, and swam ashore, calling out to his countrymen tl they were all friends again. Our people waited with great anxiety near an hour for his re- turn ; during this interval the other boats had approached 8o| near the shore, that the men who were in them entered into con-^ versation with a party of the islanders at a little distance; bj whom they were informed that the Captain's body had been cot to pieces, and carried up the country ; but of this circumstance Mr. King was not apprized till his return to the ships. Mr. lung now began to express some degree ot impatience at Koah's delay ; upon which the chiefs pressed him exceedingly to land ; assunng him, that, if he would go in person to Terreeo- boo, the body would be undoubtedly restored to him. When they found they could not prevail on Mr. King to go ashore, Aey enaeavoured, on pretence of conversing with him with greatef ease, to decoy his boat among some rocks, where they might have had it in their power to separate him from the other boats. It Vvas easy to see through these artifices, and he was, therefore, very desifous of breaking off all communication with Aeni, when a chief approached, who had particulai-ly attached himself to Captain Clerke, and the officers of the Discovery' on boara which shin he had sailed when they l£tst qtrittedthe lM|v, intend* in|f to take his passage to ^e island of Mowee!. He said he came from Terr^eoboo, to acquahit our people, Uhltt the bo^ was carried up the country^ but that it snoufd be brought buck cook's third VOYAGE; 1776 — 17S0 4Pt . following morninz; there appeared much sincerity in his inner ; and being asked, if he uttered a falsehood he hooked Igether his tyvo fore fingers, which is here understood as the jrn of veracity, in the use of which these islanders are very irupulous. r Mr. King being now at a loss how to proceed, sent Mr. Van- Uver to inform Captain Gierke of all that had passed^ that it as his opinion the natives did not intend to keep their word ; id, far from being grieved at what had happened, were, on |e contrary, inspired with great confidence on accoimt of their [te success, and sought only to gain time till they could plan ^e scheme for getting our people into their power. Mr. Van- Duver came back with orders for Mr. King to return on-board, her giving the islanders to understand, that if the body was not pstored the next morning, the town should be destroyed. " When they perceived our party retiring, they endeavoured provoke them by the most contemptuous and insulting ges- lires. Several of our people said, they could distinguish some the natives parading about in the clothes which had belonged I our unhappy countrymen, and among them, an Eree bran- ching Captain Cook's hanger, and a woman holding the scab- jrd. In consequence of Mr. King's report to Captain Gierke, [fwliat he supposed to be the present temper and disposition of iniiabitants, the most effectual methods were taken to guard jainst any attack they might make during the night. The »ats were moored with top chains ; additional sentinels were itationed in each of our ships ; and guard-boats were directed o [ow round them, in order to prevent the islanders from cutting [lie cables. In the night a vast number of lights were seen on Bie hills, which induced some of us to imagine, that they were kraoving their effects further up into the country in consequence tifour menaces. But it seems more probable, that they were kindled at the sacrifices that were performing on account of the war, in which they supposed themselves likely to be engaged ; M perhaps the bodies of our slain countrymen were, at that time, burnhig. We afterAvards observed fires of the same kind, we passed the island of Morotoi ; which, according to the in- lormation we received from some of the natives then on-board, here made on account of a war they had declared against a pieighbouring island. This agrees with what we learned among m Friendly and Society Isles, that previous to any hostile fxpedition, the chiefs always endeavoured to animate the courage of the people, by feasts and rejoicings in the night. " We passed the night without any disturbance, except froni |tii.' howlings and lamentations which were heard on-short. Ilarly the next morning, (Monday the 15th) Koah came alon^- Mide the Resolution, with a small pig, ana some cloth, wbicii m desired permission to present to Mr. King. We have alre«*^v mentioned, that this officer was supposed, by the islanders, to be I 1 1 ' [ I k' 81 ^ El Z2 22 49J cook's third voyage, 1776—1780. the son of Captain Cook ; and as the latter had alu ays suffereiil ♦hem to believe it, Mr. King was probably considered as thn chief after his death. As soon as he came on deck, he inteno.! gated Koah with regard to the body ; and on his returning eva-f sive answers, refused to accept his present; and was on the point of dismissing him with expressions of anger and resent- ment, had not Captain Clerke, with a view of keeping up the I appearance of friendship, judged it more proper, tha;t he shouJiil be treated with the customary respect. This chief came fr«. quently to us, in the course of the morning, with some triflinjl present or other; and as we always observed him eyeing every part of the ship with a great degree of attention, we took care he should see we were well prepared for our defence. He was ex. tremely urgent both with Captain Clerke and Mr. King to go on shore, imputing the detention of the bodies to the other ciiiefs : assuring those gentlemen, that everjr thin^ might be adjusted to their satisfaction bv a personal interview with the king. However, they did not think it prudent to comply with Koah's request ; and, indeed a fact came afterwards to their knowledge, which proved his want of veracity. For they were hiformed, that immediately after the action in which Captain Cook had lost his life, Terreeoboo had retired to a cave in the steep part of the mountain that hangs over the bay^ which was accessible only by means of ropes, and where he continued several days, having his provisions let down to him by cords. '* After the departure of Koah from the ships, we observed that his countrymen, who had assembled by day-break, in vast crowds On the shore, flocked around him with great eagerness on his landing, as if they wished to learn the intelligence he bd gained, and what steps were to be taken in consequence of it. It is highly probable that they expected we should attempt to put our threats in execution ; and they appeared fully determined to stand their ground. During the whole morning, we heard conchs blowing in various parts of the coast ; large parties were perceived marching over the hills ; and, upon the whole, appear- ances were so alarming, that we carried out a stream anchor, for the purpose of hauling the ship abreast of the town, in case of an attack ; and boats were stationed off the northern point of the bay in order to prevent a surprise from the natives in that quarter. '' The warlike posture in which they appeared at present, and the breach of their engagement to restore the bodies of the slain, occasioned fresh debates among us concerning the measures which should now be pursued. It was at length determined, that nothing should be permitted to interfere with the repair of the Resolution's mast and the preparations for our departure; but that we should, nevertheless, continue our negociations for the restoration of the bodies of our countrvmen. The greater part of the day was taken up in getti|ig the ^re-mast into a pro* cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. 495 per situation on deck, that the carpenters might work upon it ; md also in making the necessary alterations in the commissiona i)fdie officers. The chirf command of the expedition having fvolved on Captain Gierke, he removed on-board the Resolu- tion, promoted Lieutenant Gore to the rank of Captain of the Discovery, appointed Messrs. King and Williamson, first and Second Lieutenants of the Resolution, and nominated Mr. Har^ vey a midshipman who had accompanied Captain Cook during his last two voyages, to fill the vacant lieutenancy. During^ be whole day we sustained no interruption from the islanders A, in the evening, the launch was moored with a top-chain land guard-boats stationed round both ships as before. About jeight o'clock, it being exceedingly dark, we heard a canoe Uing toward the ship; and it was no sooner perceived jthaD both the sentinels on deck fired into it. There were [two of the natives in this canoe, who immediately roarexl lout " Tinnee/* (which was the way in which they ])ronounced Mr. King's name), and said that they were friends, and had something with them which belonged to Captain Cook. When they came on-board, they threw themselves at the feet of the officers, and seemed to be exceedingly terrified. It fortunately happened that^ neither of them was hurt, notwithstanding the bails of both pieces had gone through the canoe. One of them was the person who has been already mentioned, under the a^i- ! pellation of the Taboo man, who constantly attended Captain Cook, with the particular ceremonies we have before described ; and who, though a man of distinction in the island, could scarcely be prevented from performing for him the most humilia- ting offices of a menial servant. After bewailing, with many tears the loss of the Orono, he informed us that he had brought apart of his body. He then gave us a small bundle which he brought under his arm ; and it is impossible to describe the hor- ror with which we were seized, upon finding in it a piece of human flesh, of the weight of about nine or ten pounds. This, he said, was all that now remained of the bodv ; that the rest had been cut in pieces and burnt ; but that the head and all the bones, except those which belonged to the trunk, were in the possession of Terreeoboo and the other Ereeg ; that what we saw had been allotted to Kaoo, the chief of the priests, for the purpose of being used in some religious ceremony ; and that he had sent it as a proof of his innocence and attachment to us. " We had now an opportunity of learning whether they were cannibals : and we did not neglect to avail ourselves of it. We first endeavoured by several indirect questions, put to each of them apart, to gain inforuiation respecting the manner in which the other bodies had been disposed of, and finding them very constant in one account, that, after the flesh had been cut oft^ the whole of it was burnt, we at last put the direct question. Whether they had not eat some of it ? fhey immediately testi- !> 196 cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780 iied as much horror at the idea, as any European Would l)« done ; and asked, whether that was the practice among; i They afterward asked us with great earnestness, and with ai appearance of apprehension, when the Orowo would come agaii, and how he would treat them on his return. The same inqirii) was often made in the sequel by others ; and this idea is coiy sistent with the general tenor of their conduct towards him, whid indicated, that they considered him as a being of a superiofl nature. | "Though we pressed our two friendly visitants to coiUinKi on -board till the next morning, we could not prevail upon theuj They informed us, that, if this transaction should come to thel knowledge of the king, or any of the other Erees, it might bel attended with the most fatal consequences to their whole lo-l ciety; to prevent which, they had been under the necessity el coming to us in the dark ; and the same precaution, they saiij,r would be requisite in returning on-shore. They further toldiMi that the chiefs were eager to take revenue on us for the death ofl their countrymen ; and particularly cautioned us against trugtin^l Koah, who they assured v was our implacable enem^, andl ardently longed for an oppoiiunity of lighting us, to which M blowing of the conchs,that we had heard in the morning, was in-l tended as a challenge. It also appeared, from the information ofl these men that seventeen of their countrymen were slain inttiel first action at the village of Kowrowa, five of whom were chiefs;! and that Kaneenaand his brother^ our particular friends, were oil that number. Eight, they said, had lost their lives at tiieob- servatory ; three of whom likewise were persons of the first (lis- imction. The two natives left us about eleven o'clock, and took the precaution to desire, that one of our guard boali might attend them till thev had passed the Discovery, lest they should again be fired upon, which by alarming theii countrymen on-shore, might expose them to the danger of detection. This request was readily complied with, and we I had the satisfaction to find, that they reached the land safe and undiscovered. " We heard, during the remainder of this night, the same loud lamentations as oh the preceding one, and earlv the followmg morning, we received a visit from Koah. Mr. iCing was piqued at finding, that notwithstanding the most glaring marks of I treachery in his conduct, arid the positive declaration of our friends the priests, he should still be suffered to carry on the same farce, and to inake us at least appear the dupes of his hy- pocrisy. Our situation was, indeed, become extremely awkward aiid unpromising ; none of the purposes for which this pacific plan of proceedings had beeii adopted, having hitherto been in any respect promoted by it. No satisfactory answer had been given to our demands ; we did not seem to nave made any pro* gross towards a reconciliation with the natives : they still r^ 1780 pean Would iu ictice among' ess, and tvifh Duld Come agait ^he same inqmi* this idea is oooi vards him, whidj S of a siiperio,! mts to confiiuel Bvail upon tli«i|l ould come foil ^^*, it might kef their whole i(A the necessity ofl ition, they saiil ;; further toirlml for the death ofl against trustiiij le enem^, and! , to which M iorning,wai)in.l information of] ere slain in thef ni were chiefs; riends, were ofl ves at theoM )f the first (li^f o'clock, and I .gward boaJ 'iscovery. Jest larming their le danger of I vith, and we land safe and he same loud he following g" was piqued ig marks of ition of our carry on the es ofhishj- jly awkward this pacific erto been in r had been ide any prO' hey still r& COOK^S THIRD VOTAOE, 1776 — 1780. 497 >d on the shore in hostile postures, as if determined to oppose any endeavours we might make to go ashore; aixd ^et it was become absolutely necessarv to attempt landing, as 'le completing our stock of water would, not admit of any long^ flay. I .. :,i ' yu\ .... . i '(* ; We must remark, however, in justice to the conduct of 'ftplain Clerke, that it was highly probable, from the great numbers of the islanders, and from the resolution with which [they seemed to expect our approach, that an attack could not have been made witiiout danger ; and that the loss of even a very few men might have been severely felt by us during tlie remainder of our voyage ; whereas the delaying to p'it our menaces into execution, though, on the one hand, it diminished I their opinion of our valour, had the effect of occasioning them )to disperse, on the other. This day, about twelve o'clock, lipon hnding that we persisted in our inactivity, great bodies of them, after blowing their conchs, and using every method of (JeAance, marched off, over the hills, and never made their ap> pearance ai'terwards. Those, however, who remained, were Hot tlie less daring and presumptuous. " One of them had the insolence to come within musket-shot a-head of the Resolution, and, after tlirowing several stones at us, waved over his head the hat which had belonged to Captain Cook, while his countrymen ashore were exulting and en- couraging his audacity. '' ()ur people were highly enraged at this insult, and coming in a body on the quarter-deck, begged they might no longer be obliged to put up with such reiterated provocations, and re- 2 nested Mr. King to obtain permission for them, from Captain lierke, to take advantage of the tirst fair occasion of avenging the death of their much-lamented conunander. On Mr. King's acquainting the Captain with what was passing, he gave orders for some great guns to be fired at the islanders oii-shore ; and promised the crew, that if they should meet with any molestation at the watering-place the next day, they should then be permit- ted to chastise them. -. / ^ "Before we could bring our guns to bear, the natives had suspected our intentions from the bustle and agit£ition they ob- served in the ship; and had retired behind their houses and walls. We were consequent! v obliged to fire m some degree at random; notwithstanding woich, our shot pi:oduced all the effects that could have been desired ; for, in a ishort time aftei- v'ards, we perceived Koah paddling towards us with the greac est haste ; and, when he arrived, we learned that some people had been killed, and among the rest jMaihamaiha. a prmcipal Eree, nearly related to Terreeoboo.* j : \";"' ';,'%' / r * In the langnage of theie islftnds, the word matee is generally med either to exptit* killiRg or wounding; and our men vrere afterwards inronued, that this ctiiefhad only rw ccived a trifling blow on the face, flrom a stone which had been struck by one of tlicir balk . U I "08 cook's TniRD VOYAOE, 1776—1780. 1^^ ** Not long after Koab's arrival^ two boys swam ofl iV^ni tlitl M^rai towards our vessels^ each armed with a long spear ; au^l after they had approached pretty near, they b^gau iu a veryl solemn manner^ to chant a song; the subject of which, from I their frequently mentioning the word Orono, and pointing to thel village where Captain Cook had been slain, we concluded to be I the Ifite calamitous occurrence. Having sung for near a quarter of an hour in a plaintive strain, during all which time they con. tinued ifithe water, they repaired on-board the Discovery, and delivered up their spears ; and, after remaining there a siiurt time, returned on-shore. We could never learn who sent them, or what was the object of this ceremony. During the niglit we took the usual precautions for the security of the ships ; and, as soon as it was dark, the two natives, who had visited us the pre- ceding, evening, came off to us again. They assured us, that I though the effects of our great guns, this afternoon, had greatly I alarmed the cliiefs, they had by no means relinquished their hostile intentions, and advised us to be on our guard. The following morning, which was the 17th, the boats of both ships were dispatched ashore to procure water ; and the Discovery Was warped close to the beach, in order to protect the nersoos 'employed in that service. We 90on found that the intelligence which had been sent us bv the priests was not destitute of foundation, and that the^ islanders were determined to neglect no opportunity qF annoying \\b, when it could be done wiUiout niucnnazard. '^ The villages, throughout this whole cluster of islands, are, for the most igmi situated near the sea; and the adjacent ground is enclosed with stone walls, of the height of about tliree feet. These, we at first supposed, were designed for the division of property ; byt we now discovered that they served for a defence against inyasioii, for which purpose they were, perhaps, chiefly intended. llie}r consist of loose stones, and the natives are very dexterous in shifting them, with great quickness, to sucli particular situations, as the direction of the attack may occa- sionally require. In the sides of the mountain that stands near the bay, tliey have likewise holes, or caves, of considerable depth, whose entrance is secured by a fence of a similar kind. From behind both these stations, the islanders perpetually harrassed our watering party with stones ; nor could the incon- siderable force we had on-shore, with the advantage of mus- keia, compel them to rietreat. Thus opposed, our people were so occupied in attending to their own safety, that, during the whole forenoon, they tilled only one ton of water. It being therefore impossible for them to perform tliis service, till their assailants were driven to a greater distance, the Discovery was ordered to dislodge them with her great guns; which being accomplished by means of a few discharges, the men lauded without molestation. l/ su. *ni of! fri}m [d ong spear; and, ^gau lu a very of which, from 1 pointing to thcf concluded to be r near a quarter time they coil. Uiscovery, anij : there a slmrt who sent them, ig the night we ships ; and, a^ ited us the pre. ssured us, thai n* had greatly iquished their guard. The of both ships he Discovery ct the persoos e intejh'gence destitute of id to nefflect done wiUiout islands, are, acent ground ittliree leet. e division of or a defence laps, chiefly natives are ess, to such : may occa- itands near Dnsiderable nilar kind, lerpetually the incon- :e of mus- ;ople were during the It being B, till their ovcry was ich being n lauded COOK'S THIRD VoYAOE, 1776 — 1786. 49!) " The natives, hovfover, made their appearance again soon afterwards, in tlieir usual method of attack; and it was now deemed absolutely necessary to burn down some straggling hiitc near the wall behind which they had sheltered themselves. In executing the orders that were given for that purpose, our people were hurried into acts of unnecessary devastation and cruelty. Some allowance ought certainly to be made for their resent- ment of the repeated insults and contemptuous behaviour of tiie islanders, and for their mutual desire of revenging the deatl: of tlieir beloved and respected commander. ** It has before been observed, that the directions had been pven to burn only a few straggling hoiiseM, which afforded shel- ter to the islanders. We were therefore greatly surprised on perceiving the whole village in flames ; and before a boat, that was sent to stop the progress of the mischief, could reach the land, the habitations of our old and constant friends, the priests, were all on fire. Mr. King had, therefore, ^reat reason to lament the illness that confined him on-board this day. The priests had always been under his protection ; and unfortunately, the officers then on duty, having seldom been on-shore at the Morai, were but little acquainted with the circumstances of the place. Had he been present himself, he might, in all probability, have been the means of preserving their little society from destruction. " In escaping from the flames, several of the inhabitants were shot; and our people cut off the heads of two of them, and brought them on-board. The fate of one unhappy native w?.;* much lamented by all of us. As he was repairing to tie well for water, he was shot at by one of the marines. The bail happened to strike his calibash, which he instantly threw from him and ran off. He was pursued into one of the caves above mentioned, and no lion could have defended fiis den with greater bravery and fierceness ; till at length, after he had found means to keep two of our people at bay for a considerable time, he expired, covered with wounds. This accident first brought us acquainted with the use to which these cas-^enis are applied. About this time an elderly man was taken prisoner, bound and conveyed on-board the Resolution, in the same boat with the heads of his two countrymen. We never observed horror so strongly portrayed, as in the face of this person, nor so violent a transition to immoderate joy, as when he was untied, and given to understand, that he might depart in safety. He shewed us that he was not deficient in gratitude, as he not only returned afterwards with presents of provisions, but also did us other services. "In a short time after the destruction of the village, we saw coming down the hill, a man, accompanied by fifteen or twenty boys, who held in their hands pieces of white-cloth, plaintains, green boughs, &c. It happened that this pacific embassy, as soon as they were within reach, received the fire of a party of Z 5 ) ;r Hii r i t \'- fl >i ''■ii:. 600 cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. our men. This however did not deter them from oontmuttg their procession, and the officer on duty oame np in time to pre« vent a second discharge. As they made a nearer approach, the principal person proved to be our friend Kaireekeea, who had fled when our people first set fire to the viUagey and , had now returned, and expressed his desire of being sent on4)oard the Resolution. " On his arrival, we thought him extremely thoughtful and grave. We endeavoured to convince him of the necessitv there was of setting fire to the village by which his house, and those of his brethren were unintentionally destroyed. He expostulated with us on our ingratitude and want of friendship ; and, indeed, it was not till the present moment that we knew, the whole extent of the injury that had been done them. He informed us, that, confiding in the promises Mr. King had made them, as v/ell as in the assurances they had received from the men who had brought us some of Captain Cook's remains, they had not re- moved their effects back into the country, as the other inhabi- tants had done, but had put every valuable article of their own, as well as what they had collected from us, into a house ad- joining the Moral, where they had the mortification of seeing it all set on fire by our people. He had, on coming on board, perceived the heads of his two countrymen lying on deck, at which he was greatly shocked, and earnestly desired that they might be thrown overboard. This request, by the direction of Captain Clerke, was immediately complied with. " Our watering-pp rty returned on-board in the evening, hav- ing, sustained no further interruption. We passed a disagree- able night ; the cries and lamentations we heard from the shore being far more dreadful than ever. Our only consolation, on tiiis occasion, arose from the hopes that the repetition of such severities would not be requisite in future. It is remarkable, that amidst all these disturbances, the female natives, who were on-board, did not offer to leave us, or discover any appre- hension eittier for themselves or their friends on-shore. Ihey appeared, indeed, so perfectly unconcerned, tliat some of them, who were on the deck when the village was in flames, seemed to admire the spectacle, and frequently exclaimed that it was wiaiVtti, or very fine. i,, (n , h " The next mo'-uing the treacherous Koah came off to the ships as usual. There being no longer any necessity for keep- ing terms with him, Mr. King was allowed to treat him as he thought proper. When he approached the side of the Resolu- tion, singing a song, and offering a hog, and some plaintaius, to Mr. King, the latter ordered him to keep off, and cautioned him never to make his appearance again without the bones of Captain Cook, lest his life should pay the forfeit of his repeated breach of faith. He did not appear much mortified with thi» unwelcome reception, but immediately returned on-shurc, and cook's thibd voyage, 1776 — 1780. 601 les, seemed joined a party of his countrymen, who were throwing? stones at our waterers. The body of the young man wlio had been killed the preceding day was Tjund this morning lying at the entrance of the cave ; and a mat was thrown over him by some of our people ; soon after which they saw several of the natives carry- ing him off on their shoulders, and could hear them clvinting as thev marched a mournful song. *^ The islanders being at length convinced that it was not the want of ability to chastise them which had induced us at first to tolerate their provocations, desisted from molesting our people ; and, towards the evening, a chief, named Eappo, who had sel- dom visited us, but whom we knew to be a man of the first dis- tinction, came with presents from Te^^ .^oboo to sue for peace. These presents were accented, and the chief was dismissed with the following answer : * I'hat no peace would be granted till the remains of Captain Cook should be restored.' " We were informed by Eappo, that the flesh of all the bones of our people, who had been fllain, as well as the bones of the tranks, had been burnt ; that the limb-bones of the marines had been distributed among this inferior chiefs ; and that the remains of Captain Cook had been disposed of as follows : the liead to a great Eree, called Kahooopeou ; the hair to Maiha- maiha ; and the arms, legs, and thfj^hs, to Terreeoboo. After it was dark, many of the natives cartie off with various sorts of vegetables ; and we also received from Kaireekeea two large presents of the same articles. " The next day was principally emploj'ed in sending and re- ceiving the messages that passed between Captain Clerke and the old king. Eappo was very urgent that one of our officers should go on-shore ; and offered to remain on-board, in the mean time, as an hostage. This request, however, was not complied with ; and he left us with a r . omiise of bringing the bones the following day. Our watering party at the beach did not meet with the least opposition from the islanders, who, not- withstanding our cautious behaviour, again \entured themselves amongst us without any marks of diffidence or apprehension. " On Saturday the 20th;, early in the monmig, we had the satisfaction of getting the foremast stepped. This operation was attended with considerable difficulty, and some danger, our rones being so extremely rotten, Uiat the purchase several times ?ave way. This morning, between the hours often and eleven, we saw a numerous body of the natives descending the hill, which is over the beach, in a sort of procession, each man carrying on his shoulders two or three sugar-canes, and some bread-fruit, plaintains, and taro, in his hand. Thev were pre- ceded by two drummers, wh(», when thev readied the water- side, seated themselves l)y a white flag, and began beating their drums, while those who followed them advanced one by one, itid deposited the presents Uiey had brought with them ; after !• ! 'If u 60*i CdrtK'S fttlRD VOYAGfi, 1776—1780 %\ )Tt which, they retired in the same order. Soon afterwanfe Eappo appeared m his Icmg' i^adiered cloak, bearing sorneth^iig witb great solemnity in his hands ; and having stationed himself os a rock, he made signs that a boat should be sent him. " Gaptani Clerke, mipposing that the chief had brought the bones of Captain Cook (which, indeed proved to be the caite,) went himself in the pinnace to receive them, and ordered Mr. King to attend him in the cutter. When thev arrived at the beach, Eappo, entering the pinnace, delivered the bones to Cap- tain Clerke, wrapped up in a great quantity of fine new cloth, and covered with a spotted cloak of black and white feathm. He afterwards attended our gentlemen to the Resolution, but could not be prevailed on to accompany them on board ; being, perhaps, from a sense of decency, unwilling to be present at the opening of the parcel. " We found, in this bundle, both the hands of Captain Cook entire, which were well known to us from a scar on one of them that divided the fore-finger from the thumb, the whole length of the metacarpal bone ; the skull, but with the scalp separated from it, and the bones of the face wanting ; the scalp, with the ears adhering to it, and the hair upon it cut short ; the bones of the arms, with the skin of the fore-arms hanging to them ; tl»e bones of the thighs and legs joined together, but without the feet. The ligaments of the joints were observed to be entire; and the whole shewed sufficient marks of having been in the fire, except the hands, which had the ilesh remaining upon them, and were ciit in several places, aoid crammed with salt, most probably with a view of preserving them. The skull was free from any fracture, but the scalp had a cut in the back part of it. The lower jaw and feet, which were wanting, had been seized, as Eappo informed us, by different Erees; and he also told us, that Terreeoboo was using every means to recover them. '^ Eappo, and the king's son, came on-board the next morn- ing, and brought with them not only the remaining bones of of Captain Cook, but likewise the barrels of his gun, his shoes, and some other trifles which had belonged to him. Eappo assured us that Terreeoboo, Maiha-maiha, and himself, were extremely desirous of peace ; that they had given us the most convincing proofs of it ; that they had been prevented from giv- ing it sooner by the othr-r chiefs, many of whom were still dis- affected to us. He lamented, with the most lively sorrow the death of six chiefs, who had bi^en killed by our people ; some of whom, he said, were among >»ur best friends. He in^/mied us, that the cutter had b#*en taken away by Pareea's people, probcibly in revenge for the blow that be had received ; and thflf it had been broken up tlie following day. The arms of tlie ma- vvhich we had also demanded, had been carried <;ff, he rine^, said, by the populace, and were irrecoverable. '' Nothing now remained but to perform the last goieiiut cook's third voyage, 1770—1780. 503 ofEces to our excellent commander. Eappo was dismissed with orders to taboo all ihe bay; and, in the afternoon, the bone^ havin«^ been, deposited in a coffin, the funeral service was read over them, and thej' were committed to the deep with the usual military honours. Our feelings on this mournful occasion, are more easy to be conceived than expressed. " During the morning of the 22d not a canoe was seen in the bay. The taboo, which Eappo at our desire had laid on it the preceding day, not being jret taken oif. At length that chief came off to us. We ^sared him, that we were now perfectly satis- fied; and that, as the Orono was buried, all remembrance of (he late unhappy transactions was buried with him. We after- wards requested him to take off the taboo, and to make it known tliat the islanders might bring provisions to us as usual. The ships were soon surrounded with canoes, and many of the Erees came on-board, expressing their grief at what had happened, and tlieir satisfaction at our reconciliation. Several of our friends, who did not favour us with a visit, sent presents of large hogs and other provisions. Among the rest, the old treacherous Koah came off to us, but we refused him admittance. " As we were now preparing for putting to sea. Captain Gierke imagining, that if the intelligence of our proceedings should reach the islands to leeward before us, it might have a bad effect, gave orders that the ships should he unmoored. About eight in the evening we dismissed all the natives ; and Eappo, and the friendly Kaireekuea, took their leave of us in a very affectionate manner. We immediately weighed anchor, and stood out of Karakakoa Bay. The islanders were assembled in great numbers on the shore ; and, as we passed along, received our last farewells with every mark of good-will and affection." Giving up all prospect of making a closer examination of the south-east parts of Mowee, the ships bore away and kept along the south-east side of Tahoorowa. Steering close round its western extremity, in order to fetch the west-side of Mowee, they suddenly shoaled water, and saw the sea breaking on some rocks, almost right-ahead. They then kept away about a league and a half, and again steered to the northward, when they stood for a passage between Mowee, and an island named Ranai. In the afternoon the weather was calm, with light airs from the west. They stood to the north-north-west ; but observ- ing a shoal about sunset, and the weather being unsettled, they stood toward ti\e south. They i\ad now passed the south-west side of this island, without being able to approach the shore. This side of the island fonns the same distant view as the north-east, as seen on the return from tlie north, in November, 1778; the hilly parts, connected by a low flat isthraas, having at the first view the appearance of two separate islands. This deceptive appearance contin\ied til' It \ .1 ' I I 5 ?a fU 504 cook's third voyage, 1776—1780 they were witliiii about ten lea-^iies of the coast, which bending,] a great way inward, formed a capacious ba3r. Tlie westemmost] point, off which the shoal runs that they have just now mentioiie^J 18 rendered remarkable by a bmall hillock, south of which is a fine sandy bay ; and, on the shore, are several huts, with plenty! of cocoa trees about them. '' i-.i-c.; J In the course of the day several of the natives viflUed the ships,! and brought provisions with them. It was presently discovered! that they had heard of the unfortunate disasters at Owhyhee. They were extremely anxious to be informed of the particulars, from^ a woman who had hid herself in the Resolution, in order tp obtain a passage to Atooi ; making particular inquiries about Pareea, and some other chiefs; and seeming much agitated at | the death of Kaneena, and his brother. But, in whatever light ' this business might have been represented by the woman, it produced no bad effect on their behaviour, which was remark- ably civil and obliging. During the night the weather varied continually, but ontlie 25th, in the morning, the wind being at east, the ships steered along the south side of Ranai, till almost noon, when we had baffling winds and calms till the evening ; after which we had a light easterly breeze, and steered for the west of Morotoi. The carrent, which had set from the north-4?ast, ever since we left Karakakooa Bay, changed its direction, in the course of this day, to the south-east. The wind was agaiji variable dtiring ik night; but, early in the morning of the !2«th, it settled at east; blowing so fresh as to oblige them to double reef the topsails. At seven they opened a small bay, distant about two leagnes, having a fine, sandy beach ; but not perceiving any appearance of fresh water, they endeavoured to get to the windward of Woahoo, an island which they had seen in January, 1778. The wind continuing to blow fresh. Captain Gierke was un- willing to be entangled with a lee-shore. Instead of attempting, therefore, to examine tlie bay, he hauled up and steered in the direction of the coast. They steered along the shore, keeping it at tlie distance of about a mile and were induced, by the sight of a fine river, to anchor in thirteen fathoms' water. In the after- naon Mr. King attended the two Captains on shore, where few of the natives were to be seen, and those principally women. llie men, they were informed, were gone to Morotoi, to fight Taliyterree : but their chief, Perreeoranne, remained behind^ and and would certainly attend them as soon as he was informed of their arrival. Tlie water, to their great disappointment, had a brackish ta^te for about two hundred yards up the river : beyond which liowever, it was perfectly fresh, and was a delightful stream. Furtiier up, they came to the conflux of two small rivulets, branching off to the right and left of a steep, romantic moun- taia. The banks of the river, and all that they sa\)» of Woahoo, cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. which bendin? he westernmost now mentioned eh of which is a nts, with plenty iaited the ships,! itly discovered! s at Owhyhee. he particulars, ion, in order tp ' nqiiiries about j J'^h agitated at I whatever hgjit | the woman, it h was remark. y, but ontlie ships steered when weiiad Inch we had a lorotoi. The k^er since we course of this •le during tlie ttled at east; the topsails, fw'o leagnes, appearance 'vindward of ; 1778. rke was un- attempting, &ered in the "e_, keeping )y the sight n tile after- where few ly women. i, to fight ehind, and [iformed of 505 the in 6ne cultivation, and full of villages ; the face of mntry being also uncomi. only beautiful and picturesque. As it would have been a laborious business to liave watered at lis place, Mr. King was dispatched to search about the coast to eward ; but, being unable to land, on account of a reet of coral^ hich extended along the shore. Captain Clerke resolved to iroceed immediately to Acooi. In the morning, about eight, ley weighed, and stood to the northward ; and on the 28tli at \j-light, they bore away for that island, and were in sight of it ijnoon. Tliey were off its eastern extremity, which is a green lat point, about sun-set. It being dark, they did not venture to run for the road on tlie luth-west side, but spent the night in plying on and oif, and ichored, at nine the next morning, in twenty-live fathoms' water, Tlie principal object in view, at tliis place, was to water the - lips witli as much expedition as possible ; and Mr. King was lent on-shore in the afternoon, with the launch and pinnace, laden with casks. He was accompanied by the gunner f the Resolution, who was instructed to trade for some provisions ; md they were attended by a guard of live marines. Multitudes [of people were collected on the beach, by whom, at first, they [were kindly received; but after they had landed the casks, they began to be exceedingly troublesome. No sooner were the marines posted to keep off the populace, than a man took ho\d of the bayonet belonging to one of the soldier's muskets, and endeavoured to wrench it forcibly from his hand. Mr. King immediately advanced towards them, when the native quitted his hold, and retired ; but immediately re- lumed, having a spear in one hand, and a dagger in the other ; and it was with dimculty Uiat his countrymen could restrain him from engaging with the soldier. This affray was occasioned bv tlie native's having received from the soldier a slight prick witii his bayonet, to induce him to keep without the line. The situation of the ships, at this time, required great man- agement and circumspection; Mr. King accordingly enjoined, that no one should presume to fire, or proceed to any other act of viole -e, without positive commands. Having given these instructions, he was summoned to the assistance of the watering party, where he found the natives in the same mischievous dis- •^osition. They had demanded, for every cask of water, a large ua diet ; which not being complied with, they would not permit the sailors to roll them to the boats. As soon as Mr. King had ioined them, one of the natives ap- proached him, with great insolence, and made the same demand. Mr. King told him, that, as a friend, he was welcome to a hatchet, but he certainly would carry off the water, without paying for it, and ordered the pinnace men to proceed, at the same time calling three marines from the traders to protect them This becoming spirit so far aucceeded as to prevent any dar- SOG (Book's TmftD voyage, 1776 — 1780. I: m ing attempt to intemipt oiir men, but they still persevered i the most teazing and insulting behaviour. Some of them, und^ pretence of assisting the sailors in rolling the casks towards th shore, gave them a different direction ; others stole the hats fro off the sailors' heads, pulled them backward by the skirts their clothes, and tripped up their heels ; the populace, dur_, all this time, shouting and laughing, with a mixture of mocke^ and malice. They afterwards took an opportunity of stealin the cooper's bucket, and forcibly took away his bag. Thd principal aim, however, was to possess themselves of the mu kets of the marines, who were continually complaining of the attempts to force them from their hands. Though they, in gea eral, preserved a kind of de^'^rence and respect for Mr. Kin yet they obliged him to contribute his share towards their stoiS of plunder. One of them approached him in a familiar manner] and diverted his attention, whilst another seized his hanger] which he held carelessly in his hand, and ran away with it. Such insolence was not to be repelled by force. Prudeno dictated that they must patiently submit to it ; at the same tiiire| guardin against its effects as well as they were able. Mr. Kin, was, however, somewhat alarmed, on being soon after inforraedl by the sergeant of marines, that, turning suddenly round, hej saw a man behind him, armed with a dagger, in the position off striking. Though in this he might, perhaps, be mistaken, their situation was truly critical, and the smallest error on tlie| part of our men might have been fatal to them. At length our men so far succeeded, as to get all the casks lol the sea-side, without any accident of consequence. While ourl people were getting the casks into the launch, the inhabitants,! thinking they should have no further opportunity of plundering, grew more daring and insolent. The sergeant of marines luckily suggested to Mr. King the advantage of sending off his partjf first into the boats, by which means the muskets would be taken | out of their reach, which, as above related, were the grand ob- jects the islanders had in view: and if they should happen to | attack our men, the marines could more effectually defend them, than if thev were on-shore. Every tiling was now in the boats, and only Mr. King, Mr. Anderson the gunner, and a seaman of the boat's crew, remained I on-shore. As the pinnace lay beyond the surf, through which our men were obliged to swim, Mr. King told them to make the ] best of their way to it, and that he should follow them. They both refused to comply with this order, and it became a manner of contest who should be the last on-shore. Some hasty expres- sion, it seems, Mr. King had just before made use of to the .sailor, which he considered as a reflection on his courage, hi^d excited his resentment, and the old gunner, as a point of honour was now started, conceived it to be his duty to take a part in it la this whimsical situation they, i)erhaps, might have remained cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. 507 jmo time, hs^dnot the dispute been settled by the stones/which egan to fly about them, and by the exclamations o( the people join the boats, begging our men to be expeditious, as tne na- ivfcd were arme4 with clubs and spears, and pursuing them into he w^ter. Mr, King arrived first at the pinnace, and, perceiv- ing Mr. Anderson was so Car behind, as not to be entirely out >f danger, he ordered one musket to be fired, but, in the hiurry 'executing his orders, the marines fired two. The natives im- sdiately ran away, leaving only one man and a woman on the beach. The man attempted to rise several times, but was not ble, having been wounded in the groin, ^flie natives, in a iort time, returned, and surrounded the wounded man, brandish- ing their spears at them with an air of defiance, but, by the time Jiliey reached the ships, some persons arrived, which were sup- hosed to be the chiefs, by whom they were all driven from the shore. I Captain Clerke, during the absence, of the men had been un- Ider terrible apprehensions for their safety, which had been con- Igiderably increased by his misunderstandiing some of the natives [with whom he had some conversation on-board. The name of [Captain Cook being frequently mentioned, accompanied with cir- [cumstantial descriptions of death and destruction, he concluded [that they had received intelligence of the unfortunate events at jiOwhyhee, to which they alluded. But they were only endea- vouring to make him understand that wars had arisen on account ot the goats, which Captain Cook iad left at Oneeheow, and that the poor goats, had been slaughtered during the contest for the property of them. Captain Clerke, applying these repre- I sentations tu their misfortunes at Owhyhee, and to an indication of revenge, fixed his telescope upon them ; and, as soon as he j saw the smoke of the muskets, ordered the boats to be put off to their assistance. On the 2d of March, being the next day, Mr. King was again ordered on-shore with the watering party. As they had so narrowly escaped the preceding day, Captain Clerke augmented the force from both ships, and they had a guard of forty men under arms. This precaution, however, was found to be unnecessary ; for the beach was left entirely to them- selves, and the ground extending from the landing-place to the hke tabooed. Hence they concluded, that some of the chiefs had visited this quarter, who, being unable to stay, had considerately taken this step, that they might be accommodated with safety. Several men appeared with spears and daggers, on the other side of the river, but never attempted to molest our men. Their women came over, and sat down on the banks close to them ; and, at noon, some of the men were prevailed on to bring hogs and roots, and also to dress them. When they had left the beach, they came down to the sea-side, and one of them threw a stone at our men ; but as his conduct was liighly censured by tlie rest, they did not shew any resentment. '■ !|- 508 cook's third VOYAOE, 1776 — 1780. i J' If '^i% On the 3rd, they completed the watering, without ranch di ciUty ; and, on retnrning to the ships, were inlbrmed that sevei chiefs had been on-board, and had apologized for the conduct their countrymen, attributing their riotous behaviour to the quaj] rels then subsisting among the principal people of the islaij, and which had destroyed all order and subordination. The government of Atooi was disputed between Toneoni who had the supreme power when they were there the precedii year, and a youth named Teavee. By different lathers, the' are both the grandsons of Perreeorannee, king of Woahoo ; gave Atooi to the former, and Oneeheow to the latter. The quane! originated about the goats which were left at Oneeheow the ye belore ; they being claimed by Toneoneo, as that island was ai dependancy of his. The adherents of Teavee insisting on tie right of possession, both parties prepared to support their pre-j tensions, and a battle ensued just before the arrival of the ships, wherein Toneoneo had been defeated; Toneoneo was likely to be more aifected by the consequence of this victory, than by tie loss of the objects m dispute ; for the mother of leavee having married a second husband, who was a chief at Atooi, and at the head of a powerful faction there, he embraced the present oppor- tunity of driving Toenoneo out of the island, that his son-in- law might succeed to the government. The goats, which iuid increased to six, and would probably have stocked ^Vese islands in a few years, were destroyed in the contest. On the 4th, our men were visited on board the Resolution, by the father-in-law, the mother, and the sister, of the young prince, who made several curious presents to ('aptain Gierke. Among tine rest were some fish-hooks, which were made from the bones of Terreeoboo's father, who had been killed in an unsuccessfid descent upon Woahoo. Also a fly-flap, from the hands of the prince's sister, which had a human bone for its handle, and had been given to her by her father-in-law, as a trophy. Young Teavee was not of the company, he being engaged in the performance of some religious rites, on account of the victory he had obtained. This day, and the 5th and 6th, were employed in completing the Discovery's water. The carpenters were engaged in caulk- ing the ships, and preparing for our next cruize. Our men no longer received any molestation from the natives, who supplied them plentifully with pork and vegetables. The ships were now visited by an Indian, who brought a piece of iron on board, to be formed into ' " '^ shape of a pahooah. It was the bolt of some large sbip-timbei but neither the officers nor men could dis- cover to what nation it belonged; though, from the shape of the bolt, and the paleness of the iron, they were convinced it was not English. They inquired strictly of the native how he came possessed of it, when he informed tnem that it was taken out of a large piece of timber, which had been driven upon their is' since we were there in January^ 1778. 780. without much dii brmed that seven for the conduct M aviour to the qi J )ple of the islaij lation. tweeii Toneonft lere the precedina ent fiithers, M of Woahoo ; 3 atter. The quarrc] neeheow the yej hat island wasai > insisting ony "PporttheirpJ rival of the ships I leo was Hkelyifll tpnr, than by tie| [ 1 eavee havingi ^^tooi, and at thef e present oppor-l that his son-in. •ats, which had ^ed^^eseislaiidsl Hesolution, by eyoung prince, lerke. Among from the bones I n unsuccessful I J hands of the I mdle, and iiad Young Teavee i )erformanceof| lad obtained, in completing iged in caulk- Our men uo who supplied ips were now on board, to bolt of some en could dis- shape of the inced it was low he carae taken out of I their island cook's third voyage, 1776—1780. D0(* The ships received a visit, on the 7th, from Toneoneo, at ihich they were surprised. Hearing the dowager princess was Ion board, he could hardly be prevailed on to enter the ship. IWhen they met, they cast an angry lowering look at each othei He did not stay long, and appeared much dejected. It was re- marked, however, with some degree of surprise, that the women piostrated themselves before him, both at his coming and going away ; and all the natives on board treated him witli that respect [which is usually paid to persons of his rank. It was somewhat remarkable, that a man, who was then in a state of actual lios- lility with Teavee's party, should venture alone within the power of his enemies. Indeed, the civil dissensions, which are fre- quent in all the South Sea Islands, seem to be conducted with- out much acrimony ; the deposed governor still enjoying the rank of an Eree, and may put in practice such means as may arise to regain his lost consequence. At nine in the morning of the 8th, the ships weighed, and proceeded towards Oneeheow, and came to anchor in twenty fathoms' water, at £.bout three in the afternoon, nearly on the spot where they anchored in 1778. They had a strong gale from the eastward in the night, and, the next morning, the ship had driven a whole cable's length, both anchors being almost brought a-head ; in which situation they continued this and the two following days. The weather being more moderate on the 12th, the master was dispatched to the north-west side ol the island, in search of a more commodious place for anchoring. In the evening he returned, having found a fine bay, with good anchorage, in eighteen fathoms' water. The points of the bay were in the direction of north by east, and south by west. A small village was situated on the north side of the bay, to the eastward of which were four wells of good water. Mr. Bligh went far enough to the north to convince himself that Oreehoua, and Oneeheow, were two separate islands. The Sandwich Islands, of which our navigators were now on the point of taking leave, form a group of eleven islands, ex- tending in longitude from 199 deg. 36 min. to 205 deg. 6 min. east, and in latitude from 18 deg. 54 min. to i22 deg. 15 min. north. Their names, according to the natives, are, 1. Owhyhee. 2. Atooi, Atowi, or Towi ; which is also called sometimes Kowi. 3. Woahoo, or Oahoo. 4. Mowee. 5. Morotoi, or Morokoi. 6. Oreehoua, or Reehoua. 7. Morotinnee, or Morokinnee. 8. Ta- hoora. 9. Ranai, or Oranai. 10. Oneeheow, or Neeheehow. n. Kahowrowee, or Tahoorowa. These are all inhabited, ex- cept Tahoora and Morotinnee. Captain Cook had distinguished this cluster of islands, by the name of the Sandwich Island, in honour of the Elarl of Sand- wich, then First Lord of the Admiralty, under whose adminis- tration he had enriched geography with so many important dis- coveries ; a tribute justly due to that nobleman^ for the encou- i-l t •[ t 1 f r Id mM \ 11 f ; li 610 COOK', TH«„ VOV.O., l,r^„,,_ H ■■' r'w ragement and '776-1780. Witide of 305 de'i"1? °^ "• ''^S- 34 min^'n^orth' *'"^»»f whoe island i» .i *; ^ """• east. The rVr;. r ' andinitj Its breadK tee„,vfr„''',' «^°SrapUeat J^'sTpTn "' ,*l ''es nearly in „ „!. ,Y "T 'eagues ; and its ,;,... .■"*'''»'» rafel district of Amakant f ' "^"^"^^ ^^ teySl^'*^ ""^^^^ «« northward of th 1 from, that of Aheedo„^ t1' ^^^^^rates the cliffs, down Xh Sr^'"^ t *^o»"Poscd of hiih '"¥' ^°^M countiy rises iXn/v?^''^ "^^autifd casc^^^ ^^ ^^^PM narrow deenJ?.'* "^'^^ ^ S^^adual ascent^ «»i- ""^ "^^^^^^ The ' tivatel and fnT' "'' '^^^^^ churns ?t'J''^ !f intersected J elevation; and X I^*^- '^^^ <="««' of Ahcedn?/ *?'* "* '<"»" more even than th! ^T' P*rts have the a„n °'^* "">*"" occas onallv resiS^y °*Jne whole island- I^T' /'^^^ appeared - ro^d^FS'T^Sthi t3:r fe?^5 Wlk were coveredJ^;'' '"'T^'*' ^e beach' '^""P »% » » covered K"°"*°^ject. 'twas flat afft *'de^contlnued to be a iiccordirig to the tropical hne rso. ierived f^^ 11 he seconded s, and by far (I nd nearly equi tnern, southei "orthern extreii, leg. 2 min. eaj3 fg' 15 min. ea«t i the eastern fii orth, andintj mference of tk\ ^ English mila, St length, whici, ty:eightleagiiei »trict8, namelj, ae ; Kaoo anil Amakooa, on Juntain Kaaijl ^ith snow, and separates the | e coast to the } and abnipt water. The ntersected bv ^ be weJJ cul- 1 3ut it. The nd its lowest •fa moderate nee of being 'hich constf- ow and flat; d the coun- is appeared •e the ki))jj » extremity, only a nar- es of these ntry seem- f they had es Juouna hole time ed to be a jrpetuallv ered with pica] hne COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE, 1776 — 1780. 511 snow, as determined by Monsieur Condamine, from obser- itions made on the Cordilleras in America, the height of thia fountain must be at least 16.020 feet. It therefore exceeds the ^ight of the Pico de Teyde, or Peak of Teneriffe, by 3,680 et, according to the comnutation of the Chevalier de Borda^ 724, accordmg to that of Dr. Heberden. llie peaks of Mouna taah seemed to be of the height of about half a mile ; and, as hey are whoily covered with snow, the altitude of their sum- nits must at least be 18,400 feet. The coast of Kaoo exhibits a most horrid and dismal prospect; he whole country having, to appearance, undergone an entire fchange from the consequences of some dreadful convulsion. iTie ground is, in all parts, covered with cinders ; and, in many places, intersected with blackish streaks, which seemed to mark Ihe progress of a lava that has flowed, not many centuries ago, [from Mouna Roa to the shore. The south promontory appears Jike the mere dregs of a volcano. The head-land consists of [broken and craggy rocks, terminating in acute points, and irre- Igularly piled on each other. Notwithstanding the dreary aspect of this part of the island, it contains many villages, and is far more populous than the verdant mountains of Apoona. Amidst these i-ums there are also many spots of rich soil, which are, with great care, laid out in plantations; and the neighbouring sea abounds with excellent fish of various kinds. ! Off this ^art of the coast, at less than a cable's length from the shore, the ships did not strike ground with one hundred and sixty fathoms of line, except in a small bight to the east of the southern point, where we found from fifty to fifty-eight fathoms' water, over a sandy bottom. The soutli-we.?tern parts of Akona are in a condition similar to that of the adjoining district of Kaoo ; but the country, fur- ther towards the north, has been carefully cultivated, and is ex- ceedingly populous. In this division of the island lies Karaka- kooa Bay. Scarcely any thing is seen along the coast, but the fragments of black scorched rocks ; behind which the ground, for the space of about two miles and a half, rises gradually, and seems to have been once covered with loose burnt stones. These have been cleared away by the inhabitaits, frequently to the depth of three feet and upwards ; and the fertility of the soil has amply repaid tlseir labour. Here they cultivate, in a rich aah mould, the iIoth-}>lant and sweet potatoes. Groves of cocoa trees are scattert d ajnong the fields, which are enclosed with stone fences. On the rising ground beyond these, they plant bread-fruit t'-ees, which flourish with surprising luxuriance. The distric!^ of Koaara extends ft-om the most westerly point to the northern extreme of the island. The whole coast between them forms a spacious bay, which is called by the natives Toe- yah-yah, and is t^ounded to the northward by two conspicuouj hills. tt if ^ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) k A / A 1.0 t^ 1^ 1.1 ? -^ im IL25 i u 1.6 i Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY. MS80 (716) 873-4503 4s^ V ^ \ ^ A ^ ^j^"^" w %" 613 cook's third voyage, 1776—1780. it \ m ■i: ■y M With a view to collect some particulars respecting the interiiil parts of Owhyhee, a party set out on the 26th of January, an expedition up the country, principally with an intention reaching the snowy mountains. Having previously procured of the islanders to serve them as guides, they quitted the villa about four o'clock in the afternoon. Their course was eastei{jl inclining a little to the south. Within three or four miles fro the bay, they found the country as already described ; but I hills afterwards rose with a less gradual ascent, which broiiglii them to some extensive plantations, consisting of the taro eddy root, and sweet potatoes, with plants of the cloth-tree.| Both the taro and the sweet potatoes are here planted atti distance of four feet from each other. The potatoes are earthel up almost to the top of the stalk, with a proper quantity of ligbll mould. The taro is left bare to the root, and the mould roiindl it is put in the form of a basin, for the purpose of holding rainl water, this root requiring a certain degree of moisture ; and yelf it was remarked that the taro of the Sandwich Islands was tkl best they had ever tasted. The walls by which these plantations are separated from eackl other, are composed of the loose burnt stones, which are raetl with in clearing the ground ; and being totally concealed by I sugar-canes that are planted close on each side, form the most| beautiful fences that can be imagined. The party stopping for the night at the second hut, observed I among the plantations where they supposed themselves to be six or seven miles distant from our ships. The prospect from this spot was very delightful ; and commanded a view of our vessels in the bay before them ; to the left they saw a continued range of villages, interspersed with groves of cocoa trees, spreading along the shore ; a thick wood extending itself behind them; and, to the right, a very considerable extent of ground laid out with great regularity in well-cultivated plantations, as far as the eye could reach. Near this sjpot the natives pointed out, at a distance from every other dwelling, the residence of a hermit, who, they said, had, in the former part of his life, been a chief and warrior, but had long ago retired from the sea-coast of the island, and now never quitted the environs of his cottage. As they approached him, they prostrated themselves, and after- wards presented him with some provisions. His behaviour w^ easy, trank, and cheerful: he lestified little astonishment at the sight of our people, and though pressed to accept of some European curiosities, he thought proper to decline the offer, and soon withdrew to his cottage. Our party represented him as by far the most aged person they had ever seen, judging him to be, at a moderate computation, upwards of a hundred years of age. As our people had supposed that the mountain was not more than ten or a dozen miles distant from the bay, and consequently expected to reach it with ease the following morning, they were cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. 613 Lw greatly surpnsed to iind the distance scarce perceivably liminished. Great was the surprise of our travellers, on finding the cold Lere so intense that they could scarcely get any sleep, and ttie klanders could not sleep at all ; both parties being disturbed, Puring the whole niglit, by continual coughing, although they, this time, could not be at any very great height, their distance |rom the sea being no more than six or seven miles. They proceeded on their journey early the next morning, and tilled their calibashes at a well of excellent water, situated about half a mile from their hut. After thev had passed the planta- lions, they arrived at a tliick wood, which tney entered by a ^ath that had been made for the convenience of the islanders, vho frequently repair thither for the purpose of catching birds, well as procuring the wild or horse-plantain. Having ad- ivanced nine or ten miles in the wood, they had the mortification {of finding themselves, suddenly within sight of the sea, and not (very far from it ; tlie path having turned off imperceptibly to the south, and carried them to the right of the mountain, which it was their intention to reach. Their disappointment was consi- derably heightened by the uncertainty under which they now were with respect to its true bearings, as they could not, atpre- sent, get a view of it from the top of the highest trees. They, ' therefore, thought proper to walk back six or seven miles to an unoccupied hut, where they had left two of their own people, and three of the natives, with the small remnant of their provi- sions. Here they passed the second night, during which the air was so extremely sharp, that by the morning their guides were all gone, except one. Being now in want of provisions, which laid tliem under a necessity of returning to some of the cultivated parts of the island, they left the wood by the same path by which they had entered it. When they arrived at the plantations, they were surrounded by the islanders, from whom they purchased a fresh supply of necessaries ; and prevailed upon two of them to accompany them as guides, in the room of those who had gone away. Having procured the best information they could pos- sibly obtain, with regard to the direction of their road, the party, who were now nine in number, marched for about half a dozen iniles along the skirts of the wood, and then entered it again by a path leading towards the east. As they passed through the woods they found many unfinished canoes, and huts in several places, but they saw none of the in- iiabitants. After they had penetrated almost three miles into the second ' 'ood, they arrived at two huts, where they stopped, being greatly fatigued with the day's journey, in the course of which they had walked, according to their own computation, at least twenty miles. Having found no springs from the time they quitted the plantations, they had greatly suffered from the vio- lence of their thirst j in consequence of which they were obliged. ;' \ 514 cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. h' -i before the evening came on, to separate into small parties, go in search of water. They, at last, met with some that been left by rain, in the bottom of a half-finished canoe ; whiclij tliough of a reddish colour, was to them no unwelcome covery. During the night, the cold was more intense than before ; though they had taken care to wrap themselves up in mats clothes of the country, and to keep a large fire between the huts, they could ^et but very little sleep, and were under necessity of walking about for the greatest part of the nig T! jir elevation was now, in all |)robability, pretty considerable as the ground, over which their Journey lay, had been generalljl on the ascent. [ TTie next morning, which was the 29th, they set out early,! vnth an intention of making their last and greatest effort to reacbl the snowy mountain ; but their spirits were considerably depres-l sed, on finding that the miserable pittance of water, which thejl had dis'")vered the preceding night, was expended. — ^The pm,\ which rf>ached no further than where canoes had been built, hi ing now terminated, they were obliged to make their wayjul well as they ct^uld ; frequently climbing up into the highest trees,] to explore the surrounding country. They arrived, about eleveiJ o'clock, ths with one hundred and fifty fathoms, over a ottom of sand. From the western point, which is rather low, [ins a shoal, extending towards the island of Rainai, to a con- derable distance ; and to the south of this is an extensive bay, htli a sandjr beach, shaded with cocoa-trees. The country fur- p back IS very romantic in its appearan^ce. The hills rise post perpendicularly, exhibiting a variety of peaked forms; ad their steep sides, as well as the deep chasms between them, jre covered with trees, among which those of the bread-fruit [rincipally abound. The summits of these hills are perfectly are, and of a reddish brown hue. Rainai is about nine miles distant from Mowee and Mcrotoi, |nd is situated to the south-west of the passage l»etween these |wo isles. The country, towards the south, is elevated and \h^' ; but the other parts of the island have a better appear- foce, and seem to be well inhabited. It abounds in roots, 2 A!/ H 4 ■! 516 COOK*S THIRD VOYACE, 1776 — 1780. m\ such as sweet potatoes, taro, and yams ; but produces very fen plantains and bread-fruit trees. The south point of Rainai um the latitude of 20 deg. 56 min. north, and in the longitude of 30| deg. 8 min. east. Morotoi lies at the distance of two leagues and a half to (h« west-north-west of Mowee. Its south-western coast, which Vi^A the only part of it the ships approached, is very low; but M land behind rises to a considerable elevation ; and at the distannl from which they had a vie^v of it, appeared to be destitute o(f wood. Yams are its principal produce. The coast, on tLel southern and western sides of the island, form several bays, thall promise a tolerable shelter from the trade-winds. The west poinll of Morotoi is in the longitude of 202 deg. 46 min east, and in IIkI latitude of 21 deg. 10 min. north. I Tahoorowa is a small island situated off the south-western parti of Mowee, from which it is nine miles distant. It is destitute ol wood, and its soil seems to be sandy and unfertile. Its latitudel is 20 deg. 38 min. north, and its longitude 203 deg. 27 min. eastl Between it and Mowee stands the little island of MorrotinneeJ which has no inhabitants. Woahoo lies about seven leagues to the north-west of MorotoiJ As far as our men were enabled to judge, from the appearanctl of the north-western and north-eastern parts (for they had notl an opportunity of seeing the southern side) it seemed by far the! finest of all the Sandwich Islands.* The verdure of the hills tixl variety of wood and lawn, and fertile well cultivated valleys,! which the whole face of the country presented to view, could notl be exceeded. In the bight of the bay, to the southward of the | anchoring-place, the ships met with foul rocky ground, abc two miles from the shore. If the ground-tackling of a sh should happen to be weak, and the wind blow with violence! from the north, to which quarter the road is entirely open, this! circumstance might be attended with some degree of danger:! but, provided the cables were good, there would be no great hazard, as the ground fi*om the anchoring-place, which is op-j posite the valley through which the river runs, to the northers | point, consists of fine sand. The latitude of the anchoriiig-placel is 21 deg. 43 min. north, and the longitude 202 deg 9 min. ea^l Atooi lies about 25 leagues N. W. of Woahoo. The lace oil the country to the southward is pretty even, but to the noilli-l west it is very rugged and open : the huls in the inland part of I the country are covered with wood, and decrease in size with i| gentle tilope towards the sea-side, \vhere they are bare. Thougkl the inhabitants far surpass the neighbouring islanders in the I management of their plantations, "•et its productions are in gen-l eral the same with that of theotti .r islands in this cluster. Their | plantations were divided by regular and deep ditches, especia * llie coi^jectarei of our DKvigators wN^ comet and Woaboo is new the teat oi gonn | ment of the Sandwicb Islands Editor. !l cook's third voyage, 1776—1780. 517 »ns areingen-l rtbewatotgonn the low grounds contiguous to llie bay wherein they anchored ; he fences were elegantly formed, and the roads through them, jrere tinished in suou a manner, as would have done credit to an Minjpean engineer. The longitude of Wymoa Bay, in this stand, is 200 deg. :20 min. east, and its latitude 21 de^. 57 min. [iorth= The latter stands to the south-west, and is uinnhabited. )ngitude 199 deg. 36 min. east, latitude 21 deg. 45 min. Iiortli. !, ■. '! ^ ^ , Oneeheow lies five or six leagues to the westward of Atboi. eastern coast is high, and rises abruptly from the sea, but other parts of the island consist of low ground, excepting a found bluft* head on the south-east point. Yams are here pro- luced in great abundance, also the sweet root called Tee ; but kve got from it no other sort of provisions. I Oreehou and Tahoora are two little islands in the neighbour- piood of Oneeheow. The former is an elevated hummoclc, join- ed to the northern extremity of Oneeheow by a reef of coral ^ocks. Longitude 199 deg. 52 min. east, and latitude 22 deg. ! min. north. The climate of the Sandwich Islands differs very little from Jthat of the West-India Islands, which are in the same latitude, llu general, it may perhaps be somewhat more moderate. In JKarakakooa Bay the thermometer never rose higher on shore Ithan 88 deg. and that but one day, the mean height at noon be- ling 83 deg. In Wymoa Bay, its mean height at twelve o'clock [was 76 deg. and at sea 75 deg. In the island of Jamaica, the |mean height of the thermometer is 86 deg. at sea 80 deg. In the interior parts, there was a greater quantitj^ of rain fell, [during the four winter months that our ships continued among these islanders, than usually falls during the dry season in the I West Indies. Tlie wiuda in general were from east-south-east to north-east ; [though they sometimes varied a few points each way to the north and south ; but these were light and of short duration. There was a constant land and sea breeze every day and night in the I harbour of Karakakooa. The tides are exceedingly regular, flowing and ebbing six I hours each. The flood tides come from the eastward; and at the full change of the moon, it is high water forty-five minutes past three, apparent time. Two feet seven inches is their greatest rise ; and we observed, that the water was always four inches I higher when the moon was above the horizon than when below. Hogs, dogs, and rats, are the only quadrupeds observed in these, or any other of the South Sea Islands yet discovered. The dogs are of the same species with those at Otabeite, having pricked ears, long backs, and short crooked legs. Some of thera had long rough hair, and others were perfectly smooth, which was all the variation noticed among them. They are about the size of a common turnspit ; and extremely sluggish in 2 A 3 618 cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. Illfi I Bl. nl their nature ; thmi^h this may not perhaps be so much owing | their natural dispoHition as the manner in which they are treati Do^s did not appear to be so numerous here, in proportio as at Otaheite ; but hogs are much more plentiful, and the br being larger and weightier, it is astonishing how large a suppjjl of provisions is got from them. The ships were upwards of (hretj months, either cruizing off the coast, or in the harbour Owhyhee, during all which time, a large allowance of fresll pork was constantly allowed to both crews ; so that the consuran.! ♦ion wais computed at sixty puncheons of live hundred wei^fctl each. Besides this quantity, and the extraordinary waste,! which, amidst such abundance, could not be entirely prevented,! sixty more puncheons were salted for sea-store. The greater! part of this supply was drawn from the isle of Owhyhee alone;! and yet it was not perceived that it was at all exhausted, or eveDJ that the plenty had decreased. The birds of these islands are numerous, though the variety ij I not great. Some of them may vie with those of any country m\ point of beauty. The vegetable produce of the Sandwich Isles is not verydifl ferent from that of the other islands of the Pacific Ocean. The bread-fruit trees thrive here, not indeed in such abundance as at Otaheite, but they produce twice as much fruit as they do on the rich plains of that island. The trees are nearly of the same height; but the branches shoot out from the trunk considerably lower, and with greater luxuriance of vegetation. The sugar- canes of these islands grow to an extraordinary size. One of them was brought to the ships at Atooi, whose circumference | was eleven inches and a quarter; and it had fourteen feet eat- able. At Oneeheow they saw some large brown roots, from six I to ten pounds in weight, resembling a yam in shape ; the juice, of which they yield a great quantity, is very sweet, and is an | excellent substitute for sugar. The inhabitants of the Sandwich Islands are undoubtedly oil the same race with those of the Friendly and Society Islands, of New Zealand, the Marquesas, and Easter Island ; a race which possesses all the known lands between the longitudes of 184 deg. and 260 deg. east, and between the latitudes of 47 deg. south, and 20 deg. north. This fact, extraordinary as it is, is not only evinced by the general resemblance of their persons, and the great similarity of their manners and customs, but seems to be established, beyond all controversy, by the identity of their language. They bear strong marks of affinity to some of the Indian tribes, which inhabit the Ladrones and Caroline Isles ; and the same affinity and resemblance may also foe traced amongst the Malays and the Battas. At what particular tinie these emigrations happened is less easy to ascertain ; the perioa, in all probability, was not very late, as they are very populous, Vkd have no tradition respecting th^ir own origin^, but what u cook's third voyagb, 1776 — 1780. 51U vholiy fabulous; though, on the other hancl> the simplicity vliich is still prevalent ui their manners and habits of life, and unadulterated state of their general language^ seemed t(» smonstrate, that it could not have been at any very remote sriod. The Sandwich Islanders, in general, exceed the middle size, Rnd are well made. They walk in a very graceful manner, run [with considerable agility, and are capable of bearing great fa- Itigue ; though, upon the whole, the men are somewhat inferior, lin point of activity and strength, to the inhabitants of the I Friendly Islands, and the women are less delicate in the forma- tion of their limbs than those of Otaheite. Their complexion is somewhat darker than that of the Otaheiteans; and they are not altogether so handsome in their persons as the natives of the Society Isles. — Many of both sexes, aowever, had fine open counte- I nances ; and the women, in particular, had white well-set teeth-; ^ood t'yes, and an engaging sweetness and sensibility of look. I The hair of these people is of a brownish black, neither uni- formly curling, like that of the African negroes, nor uniformly straight, as among the Indians of America ; but vorying, in this respect, like the hair of Europeans. There is one striking pe- culiarity in the features of every part of this great nation ; which is, that, even in the most handsome faces, there is always ob- srvable a fulness of the nostril, without any flatness or spread- ing of the nose, that distinguishes them from the mhabitants of Europe. It is not wholly improbable that this may be the effect of tlieir customary method of salutation, which is performed by pressing together the extremities of their noses. There are more frequent instances of deformity here, than in any of the other islands we visited. While the ships were cruizing oflfOwhyhee, two dwarfs came on board ; one of whom was an old man, of the height of four feet two inches, but very well proportioned ; and the other was a woman, nearly of the same height. They afterwards saw, among the natives, three who were hump-backed, and a young man who had been desti- tute of liands and feet from the very moment of his birth. Squint- ing is also common amongst them ; besid.es these particular de- fects, they are in general, extremely subject to biles and ulcers, which may be ascribed to the great quantity of salt they usually eat with their fish and flesh. The Erees are free from these complaints, but many of them experience still more dreadful effects from the too frequent use of the kava. Though it does not appear that this drug universally shortens life, (for Terreeoboo, Kaoo, and several other chiefs, were far advanced in years) yet it invariably brings on a premature and decrepit old age. It is a fortunate circumstance for the people, that the use of it is made a peculiar privilege of the cniefs. The young son of Terreeoboo, who did not exceed twelve or thirteen years of age, frequently boasted of his being admitted to drink kava, and n 5'iO cook's third voyage, 1776—1780. i^ shewed with marks of exultation, a small spot on his side tli was growing scaly. When Captain Cook first visited the Society Isles, this perl nicioiis drug was very little known among them. In his secon| voyage he found it greatly in vogue at Ulietea ; but it had gtijl gamed little ground at Otaheite. During the last time he ini there, the havoc it had made was almost incrediblei, insomuca that Captain Cook scarcely recognised many of his former acl quaintances. It is also constanly drunk by the chiefs of M Friendly Isles, but so much diluted with water, that it scarcfjirl produces any bad consequences. At Atooi, likewise, it is iiseii| with great moderation ; and the chiefs of that island are, on i account, a much finer set of men than those of the neiglibounDi;! islands. It was remarked, that, upon discontinning the use this root, its noxious effects quickly wore off. To form any probable conjectures with regard to the popula-l tion of the islands, may be thought highly diflicult, tliougit al rough calculation of the number of persons in this cluster of| islands may be ventured. Owhyhee may be supposed to contain a hundred and fiftvl thousand persons. Mowee, sixty-five thousand four hundred, Atooi, fifty-four thousand. Morotoi, thirty-six thousand. Woal hoo, sixty thousand two hundred. Rainai, twenty thousand fonrl hundred. Oneeheow, ten thousand: and Oreehoua, fourthonf sand. These numbers will amount to four hundred thousand. It must be confessed, notwithstanding the great loss sustained! firom the sudden resentment and violence of these islanders,! that they are of a mild and affectionate disposition, eqifall^ re- mote from the distant gravity and reserve of the natives of the I Friendly Isles, and the extreme volatility of the Otaheiteans. They seem to live in the greatest friendship and harmony with each other. Those women who had children shewed a remark- able a£fection for them, and paid them a particular and constant attention; and the men, with a willingness that did honour to | their feelings, frequently afforded their assistance in those do- mestic employments. They are, however, greatly inferior toi the inhabitants of the other islands, in that best criterion of | civilized manners, the respect paid to the female sex. Here the women are not only deprived of the privilege of eating wth the men, but are forbidden to feed on the best sorts of provi- sions. Turtle, pork, several kinds of fish, and some species of plantains are denied them. Hospitality is a virtue known here, and whenever our men went ashore, there was a continual struggle who should be most forward in offering little presents for their acceptance, bringing provisions and refreshments, or testifying some other market respect. The aged persons constantly received them with teare of joy, and the young women, were always exceedingly kind and engaging. cook's third voyage, 1776—1780. 521 These people, in point of natural capacity, are by no means, below the common standard of the human race. The excellence of their manufactures, and improvements in agriculture, are doubtless adequate to their situation and natural advantages. The eagerness of curiosity with wliich they used to attend the ar- I mourer's forge, and tlie various expedients which they had in- vented, even before the shij^s' departure from these LHlands, for working the iron obtained from tliem into such forms as were [best calculated for their nurposes, were strong indications of ! docility and ingenuity. Kaneena was endowed with a remark- [able quickness of conception, and a great degree of judicious curiosity. He was extremely inquisitive with respect to our manners and customs. He inquired after our sovereign ; the form of our government ; the mode of constructing our ships; die productions of our countrj^ ; our numbers ; our metliod of building houses ; whether we waged any wars, with whom, on what occasions, and in what particular manner they were carried on; who was our deity ; besides many other questions of a like import, which seemed to indicate a comprehensive understanding. Our men observed two instances L)f persons disordered in tlieir senses; the one a woman at Onceheow, the other a man at Owhyhee. From the extraordinary respect and attention paid to them, it appeared that the opinion of their being divinely inspired, which prevails among most of the oriental nations, is also countenanced here. It is liighly probable that the practice of feeding on the bodies of enemies was originally prevalent in all the islands of the Pacific Ocean, though it is not known, by positive and decisive evidence, to exist in any of them except New Zealand. The ofl'ering up human victims, which is manifestly a relic of this barbarous cus- tom, still universally obtains among these islanders ; and it is not diiHcult to conceive why the inhabitants of New Zealand should retain the repa.st, which was, perhaps, the concluding part of these horrid rites, for a longer period than the rest of tlieir tribes who were situated in more fertile regions. As the Sandwich islanders, both in their persons and disposition, bear a nearer resemblance to the New Zealanders, tlian to any other people of this very extensive race, Mr. Anderson was strongly inclined to suspect that like them, they are still cannibals ; Mr. King, however, had great doubts of the justness of his conclusions. Though Mr. Anderson's superior knowledge of the language of those people ought certainly to give considerable weight to his judgment, yet when he examined the man who had the little parcel containing a piece of salted flesh, Mr. King, who was present on that occasion, was strongly of opinion, that the signs made use of by the islander intimated nothing more, than tliat it was designed to be eaten, and that it was very agreeable or wholesome to the stomach. In this sentiment Mr. King was con- lirrned, by a circumstance of which he was informed, after the 2A5 .1 I itir? II' S H I' :•, U h22 cook's third votaoe, 1776—1780. I decease of his ingenious friend Mr. Anderson ; namely, thitl nio:jt of the inhabitants of these islands carried about with tnemi small piece of raw pork, well silted, either put in a calibash.or wrapped up in some cloth, and fastened round the waist; thii| they esteemed a great delicacy, and would frequently taste it. Mr. King found it less easy to controvert the argument de- duced from the use of the instrument made with shark's teeth, which is of a similar form with tiiat used by the New Zealanderj for cutting up the bodies of their enemies. Though he believed it to be un undoubted fact, that they never make use of this in- 1 strument in cutting the flesh of other animals, yet, as the prac- tice of sacriHcing human victims, and of burning the bodies of | the slain, still prevails here, he considered it as not altogether improbable, that the use of this knifc^ (if it may be so denomi- nated) is retained in those ceremonies. He was, upon the whole, inclined to imagine, and particularly from the last-mentioned circumstance, that the horrible custom of devouring human flesh has but lately ceased in these and other islands of the Pacific Ocean. Omai acknowledged, that his countrymen, instigated by the fury of revenge, would sometimes tear with their teeth the flesh of their slain enemies ; but he peremptorily denied that they ever ate it. The denial is a strong indication that the practice has ceased ; for in New Zealand^ where it is still prevalent, the natives never scrupled to confess it. The Sandwich Islanders, almost universally, permit their beards to grow. There were, however, a few who cut ofl" their beard entirely, among whom was the aged king ; and otben wore it only on their upper lip. The same variety that is found among the other islanders of this ocean, with respect to the mode of wearing the hair, is likewise observable here. Some of them wear great quantities of false hair, flowing in long ringlets down their backs ; while others tie it into one lai^e round bunch on the upper part of their heads, nearly as large as the head itself; and some into six or seven separate bunches. They use for the purpose of daubing or smeanng their hair, a greyish clay mixed with shells, reduced to powder, which they keep in balls, arid chew into a sort of paste, whenever they intend to make use of it. This composition preserves the smoothness of the hair, and changes it, in process of time, to a pale yellow. Necklaces, consisting of strings of small variegated shells, are worn by both men and women. They also wear an ornament. about two inches in length, and half an inch in breadth, shaped like the handle of a cup, and made of stone, wood, or ivory, ex tremely well polished: this is hung round the neck by fine threads of twisted hair, which are sometimes doubled an hundred fold. Some of them, instead of this ornament, wear a small hu- man figure on their breast, formed of bone, s^id suspended in a similar manner. Both sexes make use of the fan, or fly-flfip, by way of r.se and 780. ; namely tl„t| [out with thenul in a cRiibash, or| the waiat; thif Butly taste it. e argument de. I I shark's teeth, lew Zealaiiden ijfh he behaved I ' use of this in. ;t, as the prac. tlie bodies of I not altogether | be so deriorai. pon the whole, last-mentioned ig human flesh of the Pacific instigated by lieir teeth the ^nied that they t the practice prevalent, the cook's third VOYAOn, 1776—1780. 5*13 lomiiment. The most common sort is composed of cocoa-nut fibres, tied loosely in bunches, to the top of a polished handle, Tlie tail feathers of the cock, and those of the tropic-bird, are used for the same purpose. ''. hose (hat are most in esteem, are such as have the handle formed of the leg or arm-bones of an I enemy killed in battle; these are preserved with extraordinary care, and are handed down, from father to son, as trophies of I the highest value. Tlie practice oitatooin^, or puncturing the body, prevails among these people ; and, of all the islands m this ocean, it is only at New Zealand, and the Sandwich Isles, that the face is tatooed. Tliere is this difference between these t.vo nations, that the New Zealanders perform this operation in elegant spiral volutes, and the Sandwich Islanders in straight lines, that intersect eachodier at right angles. Some of the natives have half their bodies, from head to foot, titooed, which gives them a most striking appearance. It is generally done with great neatness and regularity. Several of them have only an arm thus marked ; others, a leg; some, again, tatoo both an arm and a leg ; and others only the hand. The hands and arms of the women are punctured in a very neat man- ner ; and they have a remarkable custom of tatooing the tip of the tongues ofsoraeof the females. The practice of puncturing is often intended as a sign of mourning, on the decease of a chief, or any other calamitous occurrence. The people of the lowest order are tatooed with a particidar mark, which dis- tinguishes them as the property of the chiefis to whom they are respectively subject. The common dress of the men of all ranks consists, in general, of a piece of thick cloth called the mar'\ about a foot in breadth, which passes between the legs, and is fastened round the waist. Their mats, which are of various sizes, but, for the most part, about five feet in length, and four in breadth, are thrown over their shoulders, and brought forward before. These, however, are rarely made use of, except in time of war, for which purpose they appear to be better calculated tiian for common use, since they are of a thick heavy texture, and capable of breaking the blow of a stone, or of any blunt weapon. They generally go bare-footed, except when tliey travel over burnt stones, on which occasion they secure their feet >vith a kind of sandal, which is made of cords, twisted from cocoa-nut fibres. Besides their ordinary dress, there is another, which is appro- priated to their chiefs, and only worn on extraordinary occasions. It consists of a feathered cloak and caj), or helmet, of uncommon beauty and magnificence. The cap or helmet has a strong lining of wicker-work, sufficient to break the blow of any war- like weapon ; for which purpose it appears to be intended. These feathered dresses appeared to be very scarce, and to be worn only by the male sex. 534 cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. The striking resemblance of this habit to the cloak and helmet which the Spaniards formerly wore, excited curiosity to inquire [ whether there might not be some reasonable grounds for imagi- ning that it had been borrowed from them, but it appeared that I the np^ives had no immediate acquaintance with any o^er people whatever, and that no tradition existed among them of these islands having ever before received a visit from such ves- sels as ours. However, notwithstanding the result of the in- quiries on this subject, the form of tlus habit seems to be a sufficient indication of its European origin. There is little difference between the common dress of men and that of women. The latter wear a piece of cloth wrapped round the waist, which descends half wajr down their thighs; and sometimes, during the cool of the evening, they throw loose pieces of fine cloth over their shoulders, like the Otaheitean females. The pau is another dress which the younger part of the sex often wear ; it consists of the thinnest and finest ciotb, wrapped several times about the middle, and reaching down to to the leg ; so that it has the appearance of a full short petticoat. They cut their hair short behind, and turn it up before, as is the custom among the New Zealanders and Otaheiteans. One woman, indeed, in Karakakooa Bay, had her hair turned up be- hind, and brought over the forehead, and then doubled back, so that it formed a sort of shade to her face, and somewhat resembled a small bonnet. Besides their necklaces, which are composed of shells, or of a shining, hard red berry, they wear dried flowers of the Indian mallow, formed into wreaths ; and likewise another elegant ornament, termed eraie, which is sometimes fastened round the hair in the manner of a garland, but is usually put round the neck ; though it is occasionally worn in both these ways at once. It is a kind of ruif, about as thick as a finger, formed with great ingenuity, of very small feathers, woven together so closely, that the surface may be said to equal the richest velvet in smoothness. The ground is in general, red, with alternate circles of black, yellow, and green. Some of the women of Atooi wear small figures of the turtle, made very neatly of ivory or wood, fastened on their fingers in the same manner that rings are worn by us. There is likewise an ornament made of shells fastened in rows on a g» oiind of strong net-work, so as to strike against each other, while in mo- tion ; which both sexes, when they dance, tie either round the ankle, or just below the knee or round the arm. They some- times, instead of shells, use for this purpose the teeth of dogs, and a hard red berry. Another ornament, if indeed it deserves that ippellation, re- mains to be described. It is a sort of mask, composed oi a large gourd, having holes cut in it for the nose and eyes. Tiie top of it is stuck full of little green twigs, which appear at cook's third voyage, 1776 — 17 ;!). 625 some distance like a waving plume; and the lower part has narrow stripes of cloth hanging from it, somewhat resembling a beard. ■■; rA:utH>^u ;•''! .n iit i>d'''i.i^ The Sandwieh Islanders dwell together in small towns or vil- lages, which contain from about one hundred to two hundred boused, built pretty close to each other, without order or regu- laritiy^y and having a winding path leading through them. They are Ireciuently flanked, towards the sea-side, with loose detached walls^ which ar«, in all probability,, intended for shelter and de- fence. The habitations are of various dimensions, from forty- five feet by twenty-four, to eighteen by twelve. Some are of a larger siee, being fifty feet in length, and thirty in breadth, and entirely open at one end. These were designed for the accommo- dation of strangers, or travellers, whose stay was likely to' be short. At one end of their houses, are mats on which they re- [lose, with wooden pillows, or sleeping stools, perfectly resemb- ing those of the Chinese. Some of the best houses have a court- yard before them, railed in very neatly, with smaller habitations forservants erected round it; in this area the family usually eat and sit in the day-time. The people of an inferior class feed principally on fish and vegetables, such as plantains, bread-fruit, sweet potatoes, sugar- canes, yams, and taro. To these persons of superior rank add the flesh of dogs and hogs, dressed after the same method that is practised at the Society Isles. They likewise eat fowls of a do- mestic kind, which however, are neither plentiful nor in any great degree of estimation. They salt their fish, and preserve them in gourd shells ; not, indeed, with a view of providing against any occasional scarcity, but from the inclination they have for salted provisions ; for the cliiefs had pieces of pork pickled in the same manner, which they considered as a great delicacy. Their cookery is much the same as at the Friendly or Society Islands ; and though some of our people disliked their taro puddings, on account of their sour- ness, others were of a different opinion. It is remarkable, that they had not acquired the art of preserving the bread-fruit, and mal.ing of it the sour paste named Mailtee, as is the practice at the Society Isles ; and it afforded great satisfaction that our men had it in their power to communicate to them this useful secret, in return for the generous and hospitable treatment they received tVom them. Tile Sandwich Islanders are very cleanly at their meals ; and their method of dressing both their vegetable and animal food, was universally acknowledged to be superior to ours. The Erees constantly begin their meals with a dose of the extract of peppei- root or kava, prepared in the usual mode. They generally rise with the sun; and, after having enjoyed the cool of the evening, retire to their repose a few hours after sun-set. The Erees are occupied in making canoes and mats: u < r i'3 526 cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. the Towtotvs are chiefly employed in the plantations,, and also in fishing; and the women are engaged in the manufacture of cloth. They amuse themselves, in their leisure hours, with various diversions. Their young persons, of both sexes are fond of dancing; and, on more solemn occasions, they entertain themselves with wrestling and boxing matches, performed after the manner of the natives of the Friendly Islands ; to whom, however, they are greatly inferior in all these respects. Their dances, which bear a greater resemblance to those of the New-Zealanders, than of the Friendly or Society Islanders, are prefaced with a solemn kind of song, in which the whole number join, at the same time slowly moving their legs, and gently striking their breasts ; their attitudes and manner being very easy and graceful. So far they resemble the dances of the Society Isles. After this has continued for the space of ten minutes, they gradually quicken the tune and the motions do not desist till they are oppressed with fatigue. This part of the per- formance is the counterpart of that of the inhabitants of New Zealand ; and, as among those people, the person whose action is the most violent, and who continues this exercise the longest. is applauded by the spectators as the best dancer. Jt must be rem&rked, that, in this dance, the females only engage ; and the dances of the men resemble what was seen of the small parties at the Friendly Isles : and which may, perhaps, more properly be termed the accompaniment of songs, with correspondent mo- tions of the whole body. The music of these people is of a rude kind ; for the only musical instruments that were observed among them were drums of various sizes. Their songs, however, which they are said to sing in parts, and which they accompany with a gentle motion of their arms, like the inhabitants of the Friendly Islands, have a very pleasing effect. They are greatly addicted to gambling. One of their games resembles our game of draughts ; but, from the number of squares, it seems to be much more intricate. The board is of the length of about two feet, and is divided into two hundred and thirty-eight squares, fourteen in a row. In this game they use black and white pebbles, which they move from one square to another. Another of their games consists in concealing a stone under some cloth, which is spread out by one of the par- ties, and rumpled in such a manner, that it is difficult to dis- tinguish where the stone lies, llie antagonist then strikes with a stick, that part of the cloth where he supposes the stone to be: and the chances being, upon the whole, against his hitting it. odds of all degrees, varying with the opinion of the dexterity of the parties, are laid on the occasion. Their manner of playing at V)owls nearly resembles ours. They often entertam themselves with races between boys and ifirls, on which occasions they lay wagers with great spirit. A nd also in facture of urs, with } are fond entertain ned after io whom, those of Islanders, he whole legs, and ner being 3es of the le of ten ns do not f the per- I of New >se action i longest. t must be ; and the parties at jperly be lent mo- 1|| the only re drums e said to lotion of have a games her of d is of iindred me they square aling a he par- to dis- with a to be: ting it- rity of )laying ys and rit. A { (I •' t 1. ^ );.••' • f- ' .i;ni /■■■• t- ; j d'l' )■' I, - > •! i' 'I Ml rl /t' ii: i'»- H I ;i.*-l^f»/ii5 •))! 1. 'jfi; ' Ml t'l 'i M • I'ltnl/ 1 f\Ufl ll'iCul 'ilO tVII (.JJi, |, 1 . i> i^ii .' •(!>♦ (imU i«iil' l(> i-.ifn! il'iil/ 1 H'iti;iii t.''ii'//uli) J 'm|1 'H »f '•. !'ii;()[ V(«"? Ii i) )t;i ■) )/Jt;t ■1'»J>, 1 -i . ,'fU.i(/'iii'P p J ■)'< 'i- hIi jitdit hio He: li ■..■It » f 1 1 i < ; .r k( il )l! -/' " \'\li ♦ill •mIhiu ••viiiili, iiv;;!. •!.•»! r r CM «IMT ill HI. It Ifi h 1 ir-H ! ."• I 1 : I i ■> «--t.t ufi tlhW t'.Di ■h i: 111' I /I, I > 1. •« M »l I ••) •*I 't <\an was lence of ices, wl property Both s€ [these peol Jfavourite tii'i.'>; ^i.M ,,.< . /i.,i uiK^iiiiA, iKarakakc u]' i»iit» I'litt// j,i.(; ; .(u|ix .,[■) Itrom the I dashed a§ impetuosi| Uake ch form in tl| islanders and set ov phinge un fered it to out in the manner w ing a favoi I misses the back with quired to in conseqi smooth w? upon their surf is cor is observe higher up< ate space, tlie larges pidity to\ mistake, < gain the s board in £ remain ex under the whence t\ ject of r^i As thf cc ing bctwc their plai success il and, divi as they a is attend ed to pi amazing dangeroi cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. b'27 lan was seen beating his breast, and tearing his hair, in the vio- lence of rage, tor having lost three hatchets at one of these ices, which he had purchased from us with near haif his jroperty a very little time before. Both sexes are surprisingly expert in swimming, which, among Ithese people, is not only deemed a necessary art, but is also a Ifavourite diversion. The surf that breaks on the coast round iKarakakooa bay extends about one hundred and fifty yards I from the shore ; and within that space, the surges of the sea are [dashed against the beach with extreme violence. Whenever the impetuosity of the surf is augmented to its greatest height, they make choice of that time for this amusement, which they per- form in the following manner. About twenty or thirty of the islanders take each a long narrow board, roimded at the ends, and set out from the shore in company with each other. They plunge under the first wave they meet, and after they have suf- fered it to roll over them, rise again beyond it, and swim further out in the sea. They encounter the second wave in the same I manner with the first. The principal difficulty consists in seiz- ing a favourable opportunity of diving under it; for, if a person misses the proper moment, he is caught by the surf and forced back with great violence ; and his utmost dexterity is then re- quired to prevent his being dashed against the rocks. When, in consequence of these repeated efforts, they have gained the smooth water beyond the surf, they recline themselves at length upon their board, and prepare for their return to shore. As the surf is composed of a number of waves, of which every third is observed to be considerably larger than the rest, and to flow higher upon the shore, while the others break in the intermedi- ate space, their first object is to place themselves on the top of tlie largest surge, which drives them along with astonishing ra- pidity towards the land. If they should place themselves by mistake, on one of the smaller waves, which breaks before they gain the shore, or should find themselves unable to keep their board in a proper direction on the upper part of the swell, they '•emain exposed to the fury of the next ; to avoid which, they are under the necessity of diving again, and regaining the place whence they set out. Those persons who succeed in their ob- ject of reaching the shore, are still in a very hazardous situation. As thf coast is defended by a chain of rocks, with a small open- ing between them in several places, they are obliged to steer their plank through one of these openings ; or in case of ill success in that respect, to quit it before they reach the rocks, and, diving under the wave, make their way back again as well as they are able. This is considered as highly disgraceful, and is attended with the loss of the plank, which we have seen dash- ed to pieces, at the very instant the native quitted it. The amazing courage and address with which they perform tliese dangerous manoeuvres, are almost incredible. \ W %. r 528 cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. At a very early period thev are so far accustomed to t\k water, as to lose all apprehensions of it, and set its perils at d fiance. A canoe, in which was a woman with her childrei 1 ,il Hi r-H happening to be overset, one of them, an infant of not more thai four years of age, appeared to be greatly delighted with wli had happened, swimming about at its ease, and playing a nu ber of tricks till the canoe was put to rights again. Among the amusements of the children, is one that was fre.| quently played at, and which shewed a considerable share of An terity. They take a short stick, through one extremity of whicli| runs a peg sharpened at both ends, extending about an inch on each side ; and throwing up a ball, formed of green leaves m ulded together, and fastened with tAvine, they catch it on one of the points cf the peg ; immediately after which they throtf| it up again from the peg, then turn the stick round, and catcli the ball on the other point. Thus they continue catching it on each point of the peg alternately, without missing it. They are equally expert at another diversion of a similar nature, throwing up in the air, and catching, in their turns, many of these balls; and our men often saw lit>.Ic children thus keep five balls in motion at once. This latter game is also practised by the young people at the Friendly Isles. Their method of agriculture, as well as navigation, resembles that of the other islands of the Pacific. They have made con- siderable proficiency in sculpture ; and their skill in painting and staining cloth, and in the manufacture of mats is very great, The most curious specimens of their sculpture, were the Avooden bowls, out of which the Erees drink kava. These are, in general, eight or ten inches in diameter, perfectly round, and extremely well polished. They are supported by three or four small human figures, represented in different attitudes. Some of them rest on the shoulders of their supporters ; others on the hands extended over the head ; and some on the head and hands. The figures are very neatly finished, and accurately proportioned ; and even the anatomy of the muscles well expressed. They manufacture their cloth in the same manner, and of the same materials, as at the Society and Friendly Isles. Tliat which they intend to paint is of a strong and thick texture, se- veral folds being beaten and incorporated together ; after which they cut it in breadths, two or three feet wide, and then paint it in a great variety of patterns, with such regularity and compre- hensiveness of design, as shew an extraordinary portion of taste and fancy. The exactness with which even the most intri- cate patterns are continued, is really astonishing, as they have no stanips, and as the whole is performed by the eye, with a piece of bamboo cane dipped in paint; the hand being support- ed by another piece of the same sort of cane, ^fhey extract their colours from the same berries, and other vegetable articles, which are made use of at Otaheite for that purpose. u\'' <<" h to >i| l!i ml i; (( 1 ii>! }i lilt //>ii liti ■> JMtli ir ii; m ,.;.'/ Ml I IK./ '^li ;iltll'>r'»l I. Utlililf! >li ti>\ '»M;Y' ■»! 'HI ' Ul.| If- ri iii'i it^St 111 I Uj but \\' ., - ."'iti,' \i\t, 1 >il t\ (ill ;i>j I !)^ \ I - 'I'i vi , i;w ro f u ;ui A-nj- nf InmoPii j'>i; ij;t ,)R nr, /•♦ill f Hi .».ltT>'j f-ll J (-- luiH ,}'^ 'l( .t(in'iijn ,\i<-i'tK) 'xl (»t yiiiJi >o,([(;(l ■)i ii j{iii/nl(j hrii! ,y«ii . v»ti lis tlifxiii ;ui!iiu(m//>; Jr/ii'xrii';'' i'i>ii .uijjj^H ?.U\^n of lirq ^.c// '.(.fKn 'uh lli! ^/i .im ff r»i>i,' du. ♦ >t< ) ))itii ,hnu»n J'Ht.-i '^ill (ITlTf il^tij ,J>'1(( xh I,l<.f"l liii tfi'» i.Mf? . »!'. jii di (j- )i./ ^mIj (d lOtljJDRHq i.'-lU^ -^1 '>iUi;;J 'i^MvA i-.id'i' /)'»(lu fti n.n»t*ji. (Itii'ir'n .Hoit<.^r7i;/T .-ih J! w? ?ja '«u!iii Miyj; io hodiiiii ii nil • ihf.in ^/jiti /•»! -ir llijli'i -ujt lil()*)(| '!l(((;r.l ,1^ M'W jjiunu.ir 1(11 Y' till 'JTJW , juHqIu '^ li-.fiiJ {(> f,n')iiii D'j^! ^-.Knini i \mh'a -mI i uiiit' 1 l»it>i .hitiiiii /llr/'hn| .T.»t'»/n lu f-.Hl'xii ii >i jk id^r. Uii \\\.\svt' Ti'ol '1(1 *v>li!« 'il Ii »i!i)<{<]ii;^ 'nii //^d I' .b..H|s*iJ<)(( I! // ;')!; it i''ioij((iii- uidt l<) ('.•i'»h|j)')dH nil If- ri III' ih I" 'Mtio<< .-.d.n.itj:. f;(»rilld» iii b-jliDj^y-Kf-n •II ►!/•.» rtbmal -iill »«> rii-'di ^ii ii id ! .^})ii(id lim, liii -d uii JH' jiiior. Inn. ; itii'ul id» T) /< isiH • j) MiiHl itnj't?«( ,• I tM;";!' • >ii init }i .ir.d )d''.uid yiN;*>(i n^ii 'w. I'K*.? 1 Tu/t II'>//^ >'.d»Hiiin tdt to /iiioU.im (d* tv liMu ,v>/iiii>uf »ii;..r id.t iu dJol » iitilf 'nnt'>«diim;nt yui ! 'i-l /!ltn-Mi I I'liH /!tr*(i*< uIj t»; >:»» .^lish'il^j n •ijijKi' .'"(ii/ >l i'lidi !)(!,', x.iwwVf t. lu ni iiiij;(j ()1 i)(i'»rin /*id» d 'K'w ii/. 1 liih . rxlt'j;;.*} i)»lf.('><{ 'Djiii luii. ii'>?(;'»d ;:iicj<| riftiol ii.( i; 'inti ii ?dl biKi ,■)(;!// (id »'/idl iHti//) ,i-dlb.K'nd tii ii t;? > v»i>s I'M'i ' MlJi /fjlidfJl; >I d Xlfi t\Hri ,r:llV}i\>>*\ Jo /I'tni:-' hJ-ito >. j ijfi 7/ ui/- ri. .ti^jir'-di l(< 'XMi f/if'.j; id id I lt»/> d tid// IlilV/ ^-r- »l|l) M I! / »ro,t btjii -t'ir.i.! ri'f;' 1 <'(>'»»',[ )'■"•■ ', » 1 1 i I II-. ' d; '; » ii| iwiM )li I ? ^Oii m m /■<> /!.-'• Ml Hi ." afx'i .1 ,1111,. ii.ai |j!|ij..|| ' tlf> if! •!(.' -iji^ K:t ru,> ■>^|.,': f'ti\- jtotM (that Iwomi leers liise 01 I were ' <)•) cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. b'20 HTH]i> Oil */!♦; 7'>ilt now ii'Mi nil, t iil;f''- (1 tii * f I The operation of staining or painting their cloth, is confined |to the females, and is denominated kipparee. It is remarkable that they always called our writing by this name. The young [women would frequently take the pen from the hands of the offi- jcers and shew them that they were as well acquainted with the luse of it as themselves; saying, at the fame time, that our pens iwcre inferior to theirs. They considered a manuscript sheet of paper, as a piece of cloth stripped after the mode of our coun- try ; and it was with the greatest difficulty that they could be made to understand, that our figures contained a meaning in I them which theirs were destitute of. They make their mats of the leaves of the pandanus; and I these, as well as their cloths, are beautifully worked in various patterns, and stained with divers colours. Some of them have a ground of a straw colour, embellished with green spots ; others are of a pale green, spotted with squares, or rhomboids of red ; and some are ornamented with elegant stripes, either in straight or waving lines of t own and red. In this branch of manufac- ture, whether we regard the fineness, beauty, or strength, these islanders may be said to excel the whole world. Their fishing-hooks are of various sizes and figures ; but those which are principally made use of, are about two or three inches in length, and are formed in the shape of a small fish, serving as a bait, with a bunch of feathers fastened to the head or tail. They make their hooks of bone, mother-of-pearl, or wood, pointed and barbed with little bones or tortoise-shell. Of the bark of the touta, or cloth- tree, neatly twisted, they form the line which they use for fishing, for making nets, and for some other purposes. It is of diilerent degrees of fineness^ and may be continued to any length. They likewise make cordage of a stronger kind, from cocoa nut fibres, for the rigging of their canoes. Some of this, which was purchased was found to be well calculated for the smaller kinds of running-rigging. They also manufacture another sort of cordage, which is flat, and extremely strong, and is princi- pally used for the purpose of lashing the roofs of their houses. Phis last is not twisted after the manner of the former sorts, but is formed of the fibrous strings of the coat of the cocoa-nut, plaited with the fingers, in the same mode wnich is practised by seamen in making their points for the reefing of sails. They apply their gourds to various domestic purposes. These grow to such an enormous magnitude, that some of them will contain from ten to a dozen gallons. In order to adapt them the better to their respective uses, they take care to give them dif- ferent shapes, by fastening bandages round them during their growth. Their pans, in which they make salt, are ma <\c of earth, lined with clay ; and are, in general, six or eight feet square, and about two-thirds of a foot in depth. They are elevated on a I ' Ht' choly tune, accompanied with a gentle motion of the arms and body. When this had continued some time, they raised them- selves on their knees, and in a posture between kneeling and sitting, began by degrees to move their arms and body with great rapidity, keeping pace at the same time with the musi?;. These last exertions being too vi^'jent to continue long, they resumed at intervals their slower movements. An hour having I passed in these ceremonies, more mats were spread upon the area, when the dead chif ""'s widow, and three or four other elderly women, came out of the house with slow and solemn pace ; and seating themselves before the company, began to wail most bitterly, in which they were joined by the three rows of worrsen behind them ; the two men appearing melancholy and pensive. They continued thus, vnth little variation, till late in the evening, when we left them ; and, at day-light in the morning, the people were dispersed, and every thing ap- peared perfectly quiet. Our people were then given to under- stand, that the body was removed; but they could not learn how it was disposed of. While directing their inquiries to this object, they were approached by three women of rank, who signified that their presence interrupted the performance of some necessary rites. Soon after they had left them, they heard their cnes and lamentations ; and when they met them a few hours afterwards, the lower part of their faces were painted perfectly black. Our voyagers had also an opportunity of observing the cere- monies of the funeral of one of the ordinary class. Hearing some mournful cries issuing from a miserable hut they entered it, and discovered two women, which they supposed to be the mother and daughter, weeping over the btdy of a man who had that moment expired. They first covered the body with a cloth ; then, lying down by it, they drew the cloth over them- il ii I ii I 536 cook's third voyage, IJ'^d— ir§b! " SIS'! sSkSmiHI B |B i 1 ili^B 'Bh^H iwHn 1 jm ■M- B i, m selves^ beginning a melancholy kind qF aojig, uft^n rqpeatingJ Awehmedoaah! Aweh tanee ! 0\ rm fsAher I Oil, '^ny hiisbanu!] In a corner of the house a youniger ^ughtei: lay pccu^ti^tiq pn ti ground, having some black cloth SMeaa over her,, and repeiat me same exprei^sions. On quitting this melancholy sceneJ many of their neighbours were jownd, collected together at the] dopr, who were all perfectly silent, and attentive ,tQ their lameikl taiions. Mr. King was willing to have embraced this ppportuj nity of knowing in ^hat manner the body would be disposer of; and, therefore, after being co^ivinced that it was not tt>\ moved when he went to bed, he ordered the sentries to walk] before the house, and if there were any appearance of removingJ the body to acquaint him with it. The sentries, however, we«] remiss in the performance of their duty, for besforej ^he mprni the body was taken away. On asking now it had beep dispose! of, they pointed towards the sea, perhaps, thereby indicatiDj;,! that it had been deposited in the deep, or that it had been coy vej-^edto some bury ing-ground beyond the bay,, Th^ place o(i interment for the chiefs, is the Morais, or Beree^re^fi^md tiioi^J who are sacrificed on the occasion are buried by tlie^ide of th^j J The Morai in which the chief was interred who was killed m the cave after so stout a resistance, was hung round with reJ J cloth. ^ ,, .\;,\xf ,.,y, ;. r The ships weighed anchor on the 15th of March, at seyen o'clock in the morning, and stood to the south-west, in expecta- tion of falling in with the island of Modoopapappa ; the natirei having assured our voyagers that it lay in that direction, within | five hours sail of Tahoora. Not having seen the island at eight in the evening, they liauleJ I to the northward till midnight, then tacked and stood to th$ | south-east till daj^-break the next morning ; when Tjdioora boK east north-east, distant about five or six leagues. On the 17th they steeresr' west ; Captain Gierke meaning to keep neatly in tlie same parallel of latitude till he made the loO' gitude of Awatska Bay ; and then to steer north for the harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul,'^^hich ws . also fitted on as our reodM- vous, if we should happen to separate. From the time of losini[ sight of Tahoora, till the afternoon of the 18th, t' ey had hardly seen a bird ; they then saw several boobies, and man-of-ww birds, which induced them to look out sharply for land. T^ wind lessened towards tl^f; evening ; and the heavy swell, whicli made the ships labour exeedingly on the 16th and 17th, was con- siderably abated. No land appeared the next day ; and at noon they steered west by south, in expectation of finding the trade winds (which generally blew from the east by north) fresher « they advanced. The continuation of the light winds, with the very unsettled state of the weather, and the httle expectation of any change lor the better induced Captain Clerke to give up his plan of keeping cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. 537 prevailed, iepartiire from the Sandwich Islands; dimng which time the air was hdt atid siiltry. the thermometer being generally from On thelsf of April, ihthiliiioniing, the wind ijTiange^ to t'Rfe iiorth-«a^ by east, and continued to blow a fresh bree?e lUl tlie 4th, in the liioming, when it altered two points. About noon on Ithe 6tH, AeVldst thfe trade wind. The ships were then in the lati- tude of 29 aegl 50 thin, and the longitude of 170 deg. 1 min. The old running ropes having been continually breaking in the late rales, fhey reefed all the new ones left, and made other neces-, fsry prepJarations for the different climate they were shortly, to EDCounter. The fine weather experienced between the tropics had not beieh misemployed. The carpenters were sufiiciently Engaged m repairing the boats. The best bower cable having Received so liiuch injury in Karakakooa Bay, and offOneeheow, sto o^caiSfo'n forty fathoms to be cut from it, was converted, }&etber \vith Some other old cordage, into spun yarn, and ap- plied to VailOus puposes, bv which means many of our people me kefit Tiiiolly employea by the boatswain. Besides, it was now become ik' troublesome and laborious part of duty to air the sails, &c. which were continually growing wet, from the leakiness ofthe sides Wii^dedks of the vessels. ' There w^ere* Other cares which had the preservation of the health of the creVv^ fot their object : and these continually occu- pied a gi^at number of hands. Captain Cook's established jorders of airing the beds, having fires between decks, smoking khein with gun-powder, and washing them with vfnegar, were in |variably dbserved. Even the mending ot the sailors' old j a cV ets, «as now become a duty of importance. Those who are unac- quainted with the haljits and disposition of seamen, require to Ibe informed, that they are so accustomed to be directed by their lofficers, respeciting the care of themselves, that they contract the Ithoughtlessness of infants, and it is very certain, that had our Ipeople been suffered to act according to their owri discretion, Ithe whole crew would have been naked before half the comple- Ijion of the voyage. It might naturally be supposed, from their ■having experienced a voyage to the north the last year, that they \ jwoiild be thoroughly sensible of the necessity of paying atten- jtion to these matters ; but these reflections never operated upon jthem; for, as soon as they returned to the tropical climates, jtheir fiir jackets, and other articles calculated for cold climates, here kicked about the decks as useless and insignificant; Ithough every mie knew he was to make another voyage towards jthe Pole, 'fhey were, however, taken up and put into ca.sks by jthe officers, and, about this time restored to their proper owners. In the afternoon some of the sheathing was seen floating by 2B2 24 \\ 538 cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. the ship : as it was discovered, upon examination, that about fom ^ ^^i teen feet had been washed off under the larboard bpw, where thi [^.^^J leak was supposed to have been, which had kept the people eni ^ ployed at the pumps ever since their departure from ihe Sanj i^'g^' wich Islands ; making twelve inches water an hour. ■ • On the 12th the wind veered to the east, and blew so strong! [jg „ gale as to oblige them to strike the top-gallant-yards. The Reso j lution happened, unfortunately, to be upon the most disadvan tageous tack for the leak, but, having always kept it under wil the hand-pumps, it gave but little concern till Tuesd^ the 13tl at six in the afternoon, when a sudden inundation (Jeluged tlii whole space between decks, and alarmed them. much. 11 water, which had made its way into the coal-hol^^ not finding passage into the well, had forced up the platforins over it, am instantaneously set every thing afloat, flieir situation was tl more distressing, as they could not immediately discover s means of relieving themselves. It could be of no service place a pump through the upper-decks in the coal-hole ; and was become impracticable to bale tlie water out with buckel They had, therefore, no other expedient left than to cut a liole| through the bulk-head, which separated the coal-hole from tlii fore-hold, and thus form a passage for the water into the w\ Before this could be ellected, however, the casks of dry pri visions were to be got out of the fore-hold, which took them tl remainder of the night; tlie carpenters, therefore, could not gel at the partition till the next morning. The passage being made,! ^j^^ the principal part of the water ran into the well, when they wereH ^^^ enabled to get out the rest with buckets. The leak was nowj greatly increased, insomuch that half our people were constantly employed in pumping and baling till the 1 5'th, at noon. Tliel men submitted cheerfully to this excessive fatigue ; although, to add to their sufferings, they had not a dry place to sleej) in: but, in order to make them some amends, they were permitted to have their full allowance of grog. As the weather grew more moderate, and the swell abated, they cleared away the rest of the casks from the fore-hold, and made a proper passage for the water to the pumpsu ., ., "I'he ships now proceeded on their voyage ; a gale on the IStli, had split most of tlie sails bent ; and, as these were the second suit, ihey were obliged to have recourse to the last and best set, Captain Gierke's diificulties were augmented by the sea being generally so rough, a,nd tbie ships so extremely leaky, tliat there was no place to repair the sails in, except his apartments, which was a serious inconvenience to him in his declining state ol health. At six in the morning of the 23rd, the fog clearing away, they saw mountains covered with snow, and a high conical rock, a' the distance of about three or four leagues. Soon after they had taken this imperfect view, a thick fog again came on. Ac* when trance three > ftdr w two t( Th( north to th( rocks east s able t is us expe( didn Pa in le miles anch ment loost shori of V! pige< cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. 539 tording to the mai3s, they were now but eight leagues from the Intrande of Awatska Bay ; therefore, when the weather cleared lip, stood in to take a nearer survey of the country ; when a (lost dismal and dreary prospect presented itself. Ihe coast is Straight and uniform, without bays, or inlets : from the shore, flie ground rises in moderate hills ; and behind them are ranges mountains, whose summits penetrate the clouds. The whole covered with snow, except the sides of some cliffs, which [rose too perpendicularly from the sea to permit the snow to lie 3on them. The wind blew litrong from the north-east with hazy weather id sleet, from the 24th to the 28th ; the thermometer, during Ithat time, being never higher than 304 deg. The ship resembled la complete mass of ice ; the shrouds being so incrusted with it las to double their dimensions ; and, indeed, the oldest seaman Ibad never experienced such continued showers of sleet, and the lextremity of cold which they had now to encounter. The in- I clemency of the weather, the difficulty of working the ships, and the incessant duty required at the pumps, rendered the service intolerable to many of the crew; some of Avhom were much frost-bitten, and others were confined with colds. They continued standing four hours on each tack, having soundings of sixty fathoms when within three leagues of the land ; but no soanding st double that distance. In the morning of the 28th the weather cleared up, with a light breeze continuing from the same quarter ; and at noon, when the latitude was 52 deg. and longitude 159 deg., the en- trance of Awatska Bay bore north-west, at the distance of about three or four leagues ; at three in the afternoon, stood in with a fair wind from the southward, having soundings from twenty- two to seven fathoms. The mouth of Awatska Bay opens in the direction of north- north-west. On the south side, the land is moderjitely high ; to the northward, it runs into a bluff-head. Three remarkable rocks lie in the channel between them, not far from the north- east side ; and, on the opposite side, a single rock of consider- able size. There is a look-out house on the north head, which is used as a light-house when any of the Russian ships are expected upon the coast. It had a flagstaff on it; but there did not appear to be any person there. Passing the mouth of the bay, which extends about four miles in length, a circular basin presents itself, df about twenty-five miles in circumference ; in which, at about four o'clock, they anchored in six fathoms' water, fearing to tun foul of a shoal mentioned by Muller to lie in the channel. Great quantities of loose ice drifted with the tide in the middle of the bay ; but the shores were wholly blocked up with it. Plenty of wild fowl, of various kinds, were seen ; also great flights of Greenland pigeons; together with ravens and eagles. In this wretched i ■ ; • ii [ i i i > i II i' I ' i 640 cook's THIRP voyage. 1776-r-1780. I extrciinitv of the earth, bevond concei>tion barbaroiia and hospitable, out of the reach of civiUzation^ bound and-barriciJ ^9^4'^^ ice, and covered i/yith summer snow^ our man «xpej j^jenped the tenderest feehngs of humanity, joined to a noUeneil qt vf\iM, and elevation of sentiment^ which would. have donel ^pnour to any clime or nation. In the morning of the 29th, at day-light, Mr. King wag sentl wiu4 two boats to examine the bav, and to present the letters tol th^ Russian commander, which he had brought from, OonitJ lashka. He proceeded towards the village Just mentioned, and,! having advanced as far as he could with the boats^ we got upon I the ice, which reached about half a mile from iht shore. Mr.f King was attended by Mr. Webber, and two of the seamen,! whilst the master went to finish the survey ; the joUy boat hmt\ left to carry us back. Probably the inhabitants had not, by this time seen either ,.„ ships or me boats; for, even after Mr. King had got on tbe ice, no appearance of a living creature could be seen in the town, when further advanced on the ice, a few men were | seen hurrying backwards and forwards ; and afterwards sledge, witn one person .in it, and drawn b}? dogs, approached them. ^ ^ , ^ Struck with this unusual sight, and admiring the civility of | the stranger, who was supposed coming to their assistance, m, King was astonished to see him turn short round, and direct his course to the o»trog ; he was equally chagrined and disap- pmnted at his abrupt departure ; especially as the journey over the ice begsm to be both difficult and dangerous. At eveir step they sunk almost knee-deep in the snow ; and, although they found tolerable footing at the bottom, the weak parts of the ice were not discoverable, and they were continually ex- posed to the risk of breaking through it. Inde*'.d this accident actually happened to Mr. King ; but, by the assistance of a boat-hook, ne was enabled to get upon firm ice again. The nearer they approached the shore, they found the ice still more brol(^n. To avoid giving them any alarm, and to preserve a peace?ible appearance, Mr. King and Mr. Webber marched in front, and the men, who had boat-hooks , in their hands, were Q;rdered in,, the rear. A body of armed men, con- sisting of about thirty soidierSajWere seen preceded by a person with a cane in his t^d.. Within a few paces of our men he halted, and drew np.his men in martial order. Mr. King presented Ismyloif 's letters to him, and vainly endeavoured to make him understand that he was English, and had brought these dispatches from Oonalashka. Having attentively examined Mr. King jmd his party, he conducted them towards the village in solemn silence, frequently halting his men, and making them perform di£ferent parts of their manual exercise : iii order to shew them, perhaps, that ii cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. 541 they should presume to offer any violence, they would have to deariyith those who knew what they were about. During the whole of this time, Mr. King was in his wet clothes, ghiveiring with cold; yet, he could not avoid being diverted with this militaTy parade, though it was attended by an unsea- sonable delay. Arriving at length at the habitation of the com- manding officer of the party, they were ushered in ; and, after giving orders to the military without doors, otir host appeated, accompanied by tlie secretary of the port. One of the letters from Israyloff was now opened, and the other sent express to Bolcheretesk, a town on the west side of Kamtschatka, and the {^ce of residence of the Russian commander of this province. It appears extraordinary, that the natives had not seen the Resolution the preceding day, when she anchored in the bay, nor this morning till the boats approached the ice. The first sight of the ship, had struck them with a considerable panic The garrisoh was instantly put under arms ; two field-pieces were placed before the commander's house ; and powder, shot, and lighted matches were all in readiness. The officer who had conducted our party to his house, v^-as a sergeant ; and also the commander of the ostrog. After he had recovered from the alarm which their arrival had produced, the kindness and hospitality of his behaviour was astonishing. His hoase, indeed, was intolerably hot, but remarkably neat and clean : after Mr. King had changed his clothes, by putting on a complete suit of the sergeant's, at his earnest request, they were invited to partake of a dinner, which was doubtless the best he could procure; and, considering the visit was unex- pected, was ingeniously conducted. To have prepared soup and bomlli would have required some time ; instead of which, they had some cold beef sliced, with boiUng water poured over it. After that they were regaled with a large roasted bird, the taste of which was most delicious. Having eaten a part of this, it was removed, and fish were scrvied up, dressed in two different methods. Soon after which the bird appeared again in savoury and sweet pates. The liquor was such a8 the Russians distin- guish by the name of quas, and was the>molit indifferent part of the entertainment. The sergeant's wife served up several of the dishes, and was not permitted to sit down ait table. 1^' ."» ' • Our repast being finisned, during which the conrversation was limited to a few bows, and other personal tokens of mutual respect; Mr. King strove to explain to his host the occasion of our visit to this port. The sum of the intelligence he received appeared to be, that though he could not be supplied with pro- visions or stores at this place, yet, those articles were to be procured in great plenty, at Bolcheretsk. That he doubted not but the commander would readily supply them with what they wanted; but that, till he had received his orders, neither he, nor any of the natives, could venture on-board the vessel. 'I J y: :i 54S cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780 It now being' time to depart, and as Mr. iCii^^'^ doth^s were not yet dry, he again had recourse to the sei'iE^eant's Ijene- volence for his leave to carry those on-board Wnich he had borrowed of liim. This request was cheerftilly compHjed \yit|i ; and a sledge with five dogs and a driver, was instantly provided for each of otir party. This mode of conveyance afforded higb | entertainment for the sailors; and, they were deljglited, st^ more J when they found that the two boat-hook^ had a sledge appropriated solely to themselves. These sledges are so hght, | and so admirably constructed for the purposes they are in- tended, that they went safel^y and expeditiously over tli?^ ice, which we should have found it extremely difficult to have passed | on foot. On the morning of the 30th, the casks and cables were takec to the quarter-deek to lighten the vessel forward; and the car- penters proceeded to stop the leak, which had Occasioned so much trouble. It appeared to have been occasioned by some sheathing falling off from the larboard-bow, and tjie oakum having been washed out from between the planks.. * .'^ V On the -1st of May, in the morning, they saw theCiiscovery stand into the bay; a boat was dispatched to her ai^sistance, and she was moored, in the afternoon, close to the Resolution. On Sunday the 2nd, had heavy showers of snow, and the wea- ther was so exceedingly unsettled^ that the carpenters could not proceed in their business. Two sledges being observed to drive into the village on the morning of the 3rd, Mr. King was ordered on-shore, to learn whether any answer was arrived from the commander of Karats- chatka, which the sergeant said might be reasonably expected about this time. The distance from Bolcheretslc to St. Peter and St. Paul's is one hundred and thirty-five English miles. The dogs were sent off with the dispatches, on the 29th at noon, and returned with an answer, early this morning ; so tht they performed a journey of two hundred and seventy miles, in little more than three days and a half. For the present, however, the return of the commander's answer was ' concealed ; and, on Mr. King's arrival at the sergeant's, he was informed tha,t he should hear from him the next day. At ten in the afternoon of the 4th, several sledges arriving at the edge of the ice, a boat was sent from the ship to conduct those who were in them on-board. One uf them proved to be a Russian merchant from Bolcheretsk, whose name was Fedositch, and the other a German named Port, with dispatches from Major Behm, commatoder of Kamtschatka, to Captain Gierke. Arriving at the edge of the ice, and seeing distinctly the mag- nitude of the ships, which were then within two hundred yards of them, they were exceedingly alarmed ; and, before they ven- tured to embark, stipulated that two of our boat's crew should remain on shore, as hostages for their safety. It afterwards ni cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780 543 ppeared, that Ismyloff, in the epistle he had written to the coin- nander, had mentioned our vessels as two small trading boats ; nd that the sergeant, who had onlv seen the ships at a distance, lad not rectified that mistake. After they were come on-board, it was perceived, by their timurous and cautious behaviour, th?it they entertained some ^ery extraordinary apprehensions. They were greatly elated, lowever, when the Gferman found a person among them, witli vhom he could enter into conversation. Mr. Webber spoke hat language fluently, and convinced them, though not with- )ut difficulty, that our voyagers were Englishmen and friends, 'r. Port was introduced to Captain ClerKe, to whom he deli- ered the commander's letter. It was written in the German language, and merely complimentary, giving him and his oflicers n invitation to Bolcheretsk. Mr. Port also told Captain IClerke, that the Major had been misinformed respecting the [size of the ships, and the service in which they were engaged ; Ismyloif having called the two vessels English packet>-boats, and warned him to be cautious; intimating, as he supposed, [that he suspected they were pirates. This letter, he said, had given birth to various conjectures at Bolcheretsk; the Major apprehended they might be on a trading scheme, and therefore, had sent a merchant, but that the officer, next in command, imagined they were French, arrived with some hostile intentions, and that measures ought to be pursued accordingly. He added, that the Major had been obliged to exert all his authority to prevent the inhabitants from quitting the .town, so much were they alarmed, from their apprehension of their being French. These alarms were pnncipally occasioned by some circum- stances, attending an insurrection which had happened at Bol- cheretsk, a few years before, in which the commander was Ukd. Imagining, from the appearance of Mr. Port, that he might probably be the commander's secretary, he was considered in that light, and was invited, with the Russian merchant, to dine with Captain Clerke ; who soon, however, began to suspect, from the behaviour of the merchant, that Mr. Port vvas no more than a common servant ; but, not choosing to sacrifice little com- forts to pride, he avoided an explanation, by not permitting such a question to be proposed to nim; he, therefore continued upon a footing of equahty with us ; and we, in retuin, reaped the advantage of his abilities as a linguist. By the assistance of the interpreter, our voyagers were now enabled to converse with the Russians, witli some degree of facility : and the first objects of their inquiries, were the means of procuying fresh provisions and naval stores, particularly the latter, from the want of which they had been long in great dis- tress. It appeared, upon inquiry, that the whole country about the bay could lurnish no other live cattle than two heifers ; and Bb n i i 1 fii t 544 oook's third voyaok> 1776 — 1780. tliese, tlie sergeant engaged to procure for us. The. next appii cations were made to the merchant, whose terms for jMrvuu them were so exorbitant^ that Captain Clerke thought it exptl dient to send an officer to the commander at Bolcheretsk, I learn the price of stores at that place. This determinatio being communicated to Mr. Port, he sent an express to th commander to acquaint him with their intentions^ and.to removJ the suspicions that were entertained respecting the purposes od the voyage. . Captain Clerke fixed upon Mr. King for this seiyice, an ordered him to prepare for setting out the next day^, togetheil with Mr. Webber, who" was to accompany him as interpreter.! That day, and the next, however, proved too stormy for DegiaJ ning a journey through so desolate and wild a country ; but, otl the 7th of May, the weather became more favoural^le,,tbeyset| out in the ship's boats, early in the morning, in order tol arrive at the entrance of the Awatska^at high-water op accountl of the shoals at the mouth of that river. Tlie country boats! were to meet our men to conduct them up the stream. CaptainI Gore was also added to their party ; and were accompanied byl Mr^ Port and the Russian merchant, with two Cossacks, hayiiigl been previously furnished with warm furred clothing ; a veryl necessary precaution, as it began to snow briskly immediateiji alter their setting out. I Being told, Bi first setting out, that they could easily reacll Karatchin that night, they were greatly disappointed to finiil themselves fifteen miles from that place at sun-set. This vim attributed to the delay in passing the shoals^ bp.tH f^t^.the^^p-f trance of the river, and in many other places. ,.,,,.,, . ii i.,, L The men bein^ exceedingly fatigued, and as the difficulty oil navigating the river would have increased by the darkness of I the night, Mr. King and his party declined all thoughts of pro-I ceeding on their journey that evening. Having therefore fixed! upon a place that was tolerably well sheltered, and, cleared it J of the snow, they erected a small marquee, which they had brought, and with the assistance of a good fire and some «• cellent puncl), passed the night agreeably. The principal in- convenience was, the being obliged to keep at a considerable I distance from the fire : for, as soon as it was lighted, it thawed every part round it into an absolute puddle. The Kamtschadales | were extremely alert and expeditious in erecting the marquee, and cooking provisions; they had brought with them their tea- kettles, considering it a^ a most intolerable hardship if they can- 1 not, two or three times a day, regale themselves with drinking | tea. As soon as it was light, in the morning, they proceeded on I their journey, and before they had made much progress, were met by the Toion, or chief of Karatchin, who bemg apprized of ^eir coming, had provided canoes that were lighter and better cook's third vovaoe, 1776—1780. 546 IconfiPiVied' fo^ 'navigating the higher parts of the river. A com- Imodioua vemel^ (made by lashing two canoes together) fnr- jDished ttith fur cloaks, and lined with bear-skin.s, was also pruftired. They now proceeded rapidly; the Toion's people beingr remarkably expert in this kind of business. At ten the^ arrived at the oHrog^ named Karatchin, and the seat of bis command, where our party were received by Kar.tschadale men and women, and some Russian servants belonging to the mer- chant Fedositch. They were all attired in their best habili- ments ; those of the >yomen being gay and pleasing, and con- sisting of a loose robe of white nankeen^ gathered close round the neck, and fastened with a ailk collar. A short jacket, without sleeves, was worn over this, consisting of different coloured nankeens, and they had petticoats made of a slight Chinese silk. Their shirts, which were also made of silk, had sleeves extending to the wrists ; and their heads were bound with colonred silk handkerchiefs, which entirely concealed the hair of the married women, but the unmarned ones brought the handkerchief under the hair, and suffered it to flow loose behind. Karatchin was pleasantly situated on the side of the river and was composed of three log-houses, nineteen balaguns, or summer habitations, and three jourts, or houses made under ground. The Toion, to whose dwelling Mr. King was then conducted, was a plain decent man, born of a Russian mother, and a Kamtschadale father. His house, like all the rest in this country, consisted only of two apartments. All the furniture in the outer room was a long narrow table, with a bench round it ; and the inner apartment, which was the kitchen, was also very scantily furnished. But the hearty welcome and kind attention of the host amply compensated for the poverty of his habita- tion. The wife of the Toion was an excellent cook, and served them with various sorts of fish and game, and different kinds of heath-berries, which had been preserved since the last year. WTiilst they were dining in this miserable hut, the guests of absolute strangers, and at the extremity of the habitable globe, a solitary half-worn pewter spoon attracted their attention. Its form was familiar, and the word London was stamped upon the back of it. It is impossible to express the anxious hopes, and tender remembrances this circumstance excited in our party. Those who have been long absent from their native country, will readily conceive what inexpressible pleasure such trifling incidents can give. ; ' Having now quitted the river, the next part of the journey was to be performed on sledges; but the thaw had been so great in the day-time as not to permit them to set out till the snow was become hard and firm by the coldness of the evening. Thin furnished an opportunity of walking about the village,. H- i i 646 cook's third voyage, 1776— 1780. I which was the only place in this country that had been seen £ree from snow. On returning to their hosts, supper was prepared for them, , and when finished Mr. Kin^f entertained the Toton and his witie witti rnmch made from some spirits; and Captain Gore, with his wonted {(enerosity, made them some valuable presents; after which they retired to the kitchen, leaving thera in tlie outer | room, on the benches of which were spread bear>skins. The melanclioly bowlings of the doga awakened them about nine the same evening, which continued ail the time the bag- gage was lashing upon the sledges: but when they were yoked, and prepared for travelling, a cheerful yelping succeeded, which ceased the instant they marched off. The body of the sledge is about four feet and a half long, and a foot broad. It is made in the form of a crescent, of light tough wood, fastened together with wicker work; and, amorw; t))e principal people, is elegantly stained with red and blue; the seat being covered with furs of bear-skins. It has four le^s, about two feet in height, resting on two long flat pieces of wood, of the breadth of five or six inches, extending a foot beyond the body of the sledge, at each end. These turn up before, somewhat like a skate, and are shod with the bone of some sea- animal. The carriage is ornamented at the fore-part with tassels of coloured cloth, and leather thongs. It has a cross bar, to which the hajruess is joined ; and links of iron, or small bells, are hung to it, the jingling of which is supposed to encourage the dogs. They seldom carrj' more than one person at a time, who sits aside, with his feet on the lower part of the sledge, having his baggage and provi^^ions behind him. I'he usual number of dogs employed in drawing this carriage is five, four of them yoked two ana two, and the other acting as leader. The reins iteing fastened to the collar, instead of the head, have no great lommand ; and are, therefore, usually hung upon the sledge ; the driver depending principally on their obedience to his voice. Great care and attention are consequently used in training up the leader, which frequently becomes very valuable on account of his steadiness and docility ; the sum of forty roubles (or ten pounds) being no unusual price for one of them. The rider has also a crooked stick, answering the pur- pose of both whip and reins, as, by striking it into the snow, he can moderate the speed of the dogs, or even stop them entirely. When they are lazy, or inattentive to their duty, he often chastises them by throwing it at them. The dexterity of the riders by picking this stick up again, is very remarkable, and is the most difficult manoeuvre in the exercise of their pro- fession : nor is it, indeed, surprising that they should be skilfiil in a practice in which they are so materially interested : for, they assured them, that if a driver should happen to loose his stick, the dogs immediately discover it ; and, unless their leader is ad b^Mi svcn cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. 647 both steady ai^d resolute, they will instantly set off at full Hpeed, and never stop till their strength is exhausted ; or, till the car- riage is overturned and dashed to pieces, or htirried doWn a precipioe, when all are buried in the snow. The accounts of the speed of these animals, and of the hardships and fatigUes tliey sulVer, would have appeared incredible, had they not been gupported by the greatest authority. ^'■ During tlic winter the dogs are fed on the offals of dried and stinking iish ; and even this miserable food is withheld from them a day before they set out on a journey, and they are not per- mitted to eat a morsel of any thmg till they arrive at the end of it. ITiey are frequently kept fasting two entire days, in which time they will perform a journey of great extent. '^I'he shape of these do^s resembles that of the Pomeranian breed, but they are considerably larger. Not choosing to rely upon their own skill, the^ had each a man to conduct the sledge, wrhich, in the condition the roads tlien were, proved a very laborious business. Though tney had many diificulties to encounter, owing princi- pally to the bad condition of the road, they got safe to an ostro^ about two in the afternoon. It is called Natcheekin, and is sit- uated on a small stream, which falls into the Bolchoireka, at some distance below the town. It is twenty-tive miles from Karatchin. This inconsiderable ostrog consists of one log-house, the resi- dence of the Toion, one jourt, and live balagans. They were re- ceived here with the same civility and hospitality as at Kara- chin ; and, in the afternoon, were conducted to a remarkable hot-spring, at a small distance from this village. Before they came very near it, they saw a steam rising from it, as from a boiling cauldron; when they approached it, they perceived a strong sulphurous efHuvia. A basin of about three feet in dia- nieter is formed by the main spring ; besides which there are several lesser springs, of equal heat, in the adjacent ground ; by which means the whole spot, consisting of about an acre, was so very hot that we could not remain two minutes in the same place. The water issuing from these springs supplies a small bathing pond, and afterwards a little rivulet, which conducts it into the river, at the distance of about a hundred and fifty yards. Great cures are said to have been effected by this bath, in rheumatisms, scorbutic ulcers, swelled and contracted juints, and many other disorders. Where these springs flow the ground is on a gentle ascent, having a green hill of a moderate size be- hind it. Some plants seemed to thrive here with great luxuriance, among which was the wild garlic. On the morning of the 10th the party embarked on the Bol- choireka; and, going with the stream, expected to arrive at the journey's end the following day ; on each side of the river the country was romantic, but not diversified ; the course of it beinjf ! 'y I 1 I 548 cook's third voyage, 1776—1780. between craggy mountains, of a most dreary and barreti asp^Sct, with nothing to vary the scene, except now and then the sight of a bear, or a flock of wild fowl. Tnis, and the foUowitfg night, they slept under our marquee, on the banks of the river, and snffered greatly from the severity of the weather. On approaching Kamtschatka, Mr. King and his party judged, from an appearance of great stir and bustle, that their reception was to be in form. They were sorry for this, as decent clothing had long been scarce amongst them ; and their travelUng dresses were made v'p of a burlesque mixture of Indian, European, and Kamtschadale fashions. The commander received them in a most engaging manner; but our party had the mortification to discover, that they had almost wholly forgotten the French language; so that only Mr. Webber had the satisfaction of con- versing with him, as he spoke the German, which was his native tongue. Major Behm was accompanied by Captain ShmalelF, the second in command, and another officer, with the whole body of the merchants of the place. Our party were conducted to the commander's house, where they were politely and respectfully received bv his lady, who had prepared tea and other refresh- ments. The first compliments being over. Captain Gore desired Mr. Webber to acquaint the Major, that he was distressed for want of naval stores, fresh provisions, flour, and other necessa- ries. The Major interrupted Mr. Webber, by observing, that he should not bestow a thought upon the difllculties of supplying their wants ; he only wished to know what articles we stood in need of, and the time he could be allowed for providing them. After expressing acknowledgements for his obligmg condescen- sion. Captain Gore presented him an account of the naval stores, attle, and flour to purchase ; and ii^lbrmed him, that he intended to prosecute the voyage about the Jith of Jqne. After this, the conversation became more general ; and the commander, supposing they might be fatigued, and desirous of repose, begged leave to conduct them to their lodgingii?, at about iieven o clock. It was in vain that they protested againjt a com- pliment to which they said they had no other title than that of being strangers. That alone, with this generous Livonian, ms sufficient to counterbalance eveiy other consideration. In going along they passed two gnard-houses, where the men were unde? arms, in compliment to Captain Gore, an'l were conducted to a neat decent house, which the Major had . ;>pointed for their resi- dence vhile they continued at Kamtschatka. They had i'vo sentinels posted at the door, and a sergeant's guard in an adjoin- ing house. Having disposed of them in the apartments, t!ie Mjgor took his leave, n 'omising t'> visit them the next day. In he course of the evening they were favoured with a number o> civil messages from the principal inhabitants of the town, po- litely observmg, that th<;ir attending to pay their respects at that cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. 549 tim^ would add to their fatigues, but they would do themselves thial honour ^e 9ext morning. |n. th^ morning of the 1 3th compliments were sent to them by^ tjl^ A([£yor,.Captain Shmaleff, and the most respectable people of the town, from all of whom Uiey were honoured with visits soon after.. ,:. The ]\la^or and Captain Shmaleff offered a share of the pro« visions, of the garrison, which Captain Gore said he would thank- fully accept on condition, however, that he should be ni5ide acquainted with Uie price of the articles he received from them, that Captain Gierke might draw upon the Victualling Office in London for the amount. This was refused in the most posi- tive terms; and, though repeatedly urged, the Major always stopped them short, by saying, that his mistress would be liighly gratified at his rendering every assistance in his power to the English, who are her ^ood friends and allies ; and that it would give her a peculiar satisfaction to find, that, in such remote re- gions, her dominions had afforded any reUef to vessels engaged in such important services. He addei?- that he could not, there- fore, act so contrary to the principles of his Empress, as to think of receiving any bills ; but, if Captain Gore insisted on it, he might give him a bare certificate of the articles he might supply him with, which he would transmit to the Court of Russia, as evidence of having performed his duty. " All further acknow- ledgements," continued he, '* must be submitted to the two courts, but you niust excuse me from acceding to your proposal.'* Tiiis matter being adjusted, he requested to be informed re- specting their private wants, saying he should consider it as an affront if they applied to any of the merchants or had dealings with any other person except himself. Not being able to make an adequate return fo' such singular generosity, he had only their thanks and admiration. At this moment Mr. King recollected that Captain Clerke had sent by him a set of the engravings to Captain Cook's second voyage, desiring him to present it, in his name, to the commander. Nothing could have been more acceptable to him than this present, the Major being an enthusiast in all matters relative to discoveries. Captain Clerke had also given Mr. King a discretionary power of j)ermitting the Commander to see a chart of the discoveries made in the present voyage ; and, judging from his situation and dis- position of mind, that he would be highlv gratified by such a communication, though, from motives of delicacy, he had only a-sked a few general questions on the subject, Mr. King rt osed in him that confidence which his whole conduct so justly merited. He felt this compliment as it was intended he should, and was struck at beholding in one view, the whole of that coast on the side of Asia and America, which his countrymen had been so long employed in acquiring an imperfect knowledge of, , :, . , This day the party dined at the Commander's, who^ very f: ^.' 1 if 1 ■ i i ' 650 cook's third voyage, 1776—1780. i Rtudious to gratify their curiosity, had prepared a variety of dishes dressed after the Russian and Kamtschadale manner, foe- sides a number of others in the English styjie. In the afternoon they took, a survey of the town and the adjacent country. Boi- cheretsk is situated in a low swampy plain, that extend.') to the south of Okotsk, being about forty miles i|i length, and of a considerable breadth. ^ ,,,.» .> (:>m .. The buildings in Bolcheretsk are all in the same style ; being built of logs of wood, and thatched. — The Major's house is cori- siderably larger than the rest, and has three capacious rooms, neatly papered ; but the talc, which covered the windows, gave them a disagreeable and mean appearance. The tcwn consists of low buildings, in rows of five or six habitations each, con- nected together by a passage extending the whole length of them ; having the kitchen and store houses on oire side, and the dwelling apartments on the other. There irr«fc: • barracks for the Russian soldiers and the Cossacks : a tole,r t; urch, a court- room, and, at the end of the town, a number of halagans. The number of the inhabitants is between five and six hundred. A handsome entertainment was given by the Major, in the even- ing, to wjiich all the respectable inhabitants of both sexes were idvited. ^ '..'•' . . ..'■' -1 , Captain Gore "made a private application the next day, io Fe- dositch, the jnerchaxit, in order to purchase some tobacco, the sailors having been without that favourite commodity for up- wards of a year. This,* however, like other similar transactions, came immediately to the knowledge of the Commander ; and, in a very short time after Captain Gore was surprised to find four bags of tobacco ito the house, each containing upwards of a hun- dred pounds, which the Major requested might be presenter? ■'' i 'ifi sailors, in his n£lme,and that of the garrison under hisct,;<.'f k'. By the samfe conveyance our party received twenty 7 1: si oi sug^r, ahd as ih^ny poithds of tea, which they requested f^ officers to accept of, as they understood they were almost desii- iwift of those articles. A present was also sent by Madam Behm, for Captain Clerke, which consisted of honey, bntter, figs, rice, and other articles ; accompanied with her best wishes, that, in his infirm state, they might prove serviceable to him. Captain Gore and his party, were engaged to dine with Cap- tain ShraaleiFj who, in oi-der to vary the amusements, entertained them T\'ith an exhibition of dancing, in the Russian ar I Kamt- schadale style. It is impossible to convey an adequ- <> idea of this uncouth exhibition. The figure of the Russia >; dane resembled thosii of English hornpipes, and consisted of one, two, or four performers at a time. Their steps were exceedingly short and quick, their feet being raised a very little way from the ground ; their arms were hung down close to the sides, the body being kept, the whole time, erect and immovable, except when the performers passed each other, when the hand was cook's THIRD VOYAGE, 1776—1780. 551 Liddenly f aised with an awkward motion. But, if the Russian Uance was anraearang and ridiculous, thte Kamtschadale wag Iniinitely more so; The pn:icip«il aim ih their performances, is Ito represent the chirosy gestures of the bear, which the inhabit- lants of this country have frequent opportunities of observing ih jvarioos situations. To describe the ii-wkward postures exhibited Ion these occasions, would appear tedious and unint^fesling. |ii [general, however, the body was bowed, And the knees bent, [whilst the arms were M It being the intention of Captain Gierke to keep in sight of the coast of Kamtschatka> as much as the weather would allow, in order to ascertain its position^ he continued to steer towards the north-north-east, with variable light winds, till the 18th. The volcano was still observed to throw up immense columns of smoke; and we did not strike ground with one hundred and fifty fathoms of liae at the distonee of twelve miles .from the shore. -HOiT'ii?''. <.>1 J-AVy. 'fi'-'Htn-l'MiA hwvk^'^ fiH irf' ■■->Jif' The wind blew fresh from the south on the 18th, and the weather became so thick and hazy, that it was imprudent to make any further attempts at present to keep in sight of the land. However, that Captain Gierke might be ready, when- cook's XmRD VOYAGE, 1776 — 1780. 565 ever the fogs should disperse, to resume the survey, he ran the Resolution on in the direction of the coast, as laid down in the Russian charts, and lired signal gunc for the Discovery to pro- ceed on the same course. At three, o'clock in the morning of the 20th, the weather be- came clearer, they stood in towards the land ; and, in the space of an hour afterwards, saw it a-head, extending from north-west to north-north-east, at the distance of about hve leagues. The northern part was conjectured to be Kronotskoi Noss ; its po- sition in the Russian charts nearly agreeing with the reckoning in respect to its latitude, which was 54 deg. 42 min. north, though, in point of longitude, they dififered considerably from them ; for they place it 1 deg. 48 mm. east of Awatska, vvhereas QUI computation makes it 3 deg. 34 min. east of that place, or 162 deg. 17 min. east of Greenwich. The land about this cape is very elevated, and the inland mountains were at this time covered with snow. There is no appearance of inlets or bays in the coast, and the shore breaks off in steep cliffs. At twelve o'clock of the 21st, the longitude was 163 deg. 50 min. and the latitude 55 deg. 52 min. ; tiie extremes of the land bore north-west-by-west three-quarters west, and north-by-west tiiree-quarters west ; and the nearest part was at the distance of about twenty-four miles. At nine in the evening, when thej' had approached about six miles nearer the coast, they found it formed a projecting penin- snla, extending eleven or twelve leagues in the direction nearly of north and south. It is level, and of a moderate elevation; the southern extreme terminates in a sloping point ; that to the northward forms a steep bluff head ; and between them, ten or twelve miles to the south of the northern cape, there is a uon- siderable break in the land. On both sides of t^is break the land is low. A remarkable hill, resembling a saddle, rises be^ yond the opening ; and a chain of lofty mountains,. capped with snow, extends along the back of the whole peninsula. The coast running in an even direction, they were uncertain with respect to the position of Kamtschatkoi Noss, which ac- cording to Mr. Muller, forms a projecting point towards the middle of the peninsula ; but it was afterwards found, that,; in a late Russian map, that appellation is given to the southern cape. The latitude of this, from several accurate observations, was 56 deg. 3 min. and its longitude 163 (teg 20 min. To the south of this peninsula the great river Kamtschatka runs into the sea. The season being too far advanced to make an accurate sur- vey of the coast of Kamtschatka, it was the design of Captain Gierke, in his course to Behring's Strait, to determine princi- pally the respective situations of the projecting points of the coast, he therefore steered across a spacious bay^ laid down be- tween Kamtschatkoi Noss and Olutorskoi Noss, with a view of '"taking the latter; which is represented by the Russian geo- ■I I' i: ^i ( 55ft cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. graphers as terminating the peninsula of Kamatchatka, dnd as being the southern limit of the country of the Koriiaks. On Tuesday the 22nd, they passed a dead whale, which emitted a most horrible smell, perceivable at the distance of three or four ! miles. It was covered with a very considerable number of gulls, petrels, and other oceanic birds, which were regaling them- selves upon it. On the 24th, the wind, which had shifted about during the three preceding days, settled at 80uth-\Vest, bringing on clear weather, with which they proceeded towards the north- east-by-north, across the bay, having no land in sight. In the course of this day they observed a great number of gulls, and were witnesses to the disgusting mode of feeding of the arctic full, which has procured it the appellation of the parasite, 'his bird, whi<^h is rtither larger than the common gull, pursues the latter species whenever it meets them ; the gull, after flying about for some time, with loud screams, and manifest indi- cations of extreme terror, drops its excrement, which its pur- suer instantly darts at, and catches in its beak before it fall? into the sea. - •'' ' ' ' ''' ' At one o'clock in the afternoon of the 25th, when ' itt' the lati- tude of 69 deg. 12 min., and in the longitude of 168 deg. 35 min., a very thick fog came on, about the time they expected to obtain a view of Olutorskoi Noss, which, if Muller's position of it, in the latitude of 59 deg. 30 min., and in the longitude of 167 deg. 36 min., is right, could then have been only a dozen leagues from them, at which distance they might easily have discerned land of a moderate height. The depth of ^vater, at present, was so great, that they had no ground with a hundred and sixty fathoms of line. The next day they had a fresh gale from the south-west, which lasted till noon on the 27th, when the weather clearing up, they steered to the north, with an intention of making the land. Their latitude at this time was 59 deg. 49 min., and longitude 175 deg. 43 min. The next morning at nine o'clock, they were ten or eleven miles from the shore, the southern extreme bearing west-by-south, about six leagues distant, beyond which the coast seemed to incline to the west. This point being in the longitude of 174 deg. 48 min., and in the latitude of 61 deg. 48 min., is situated, according to the Russian charts, near the mouth of the river Opuka. The northern extremity, at the same time, bore north-by-west ; between which, and a hill bearing north-west-by-west-quarter-west, the coast appeared to bend towards the west, and form a deep bay. At noon, on Thursday the 1st of July, Mr. Bligh, master of the Resolution, having moored a small keg with the deep sea* lead, in seventy-five fathoms' water, found that the ship made a course to the north-by-east, about a half a mile in an hour; this was attributed by him to the effect of a southerly swell, rather than to that of any current. The wind, towards the evening, freshening from the south-east, they steered to the COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE, 1776 — 1780. 657 orth-^ast-byrea^t, for the point that Behring calls Tschukotskoi (oss, which they had observed on the 4th of September the receding year, at the same time that they perceived, towards the outh-east the island of St. Laurence. This cape, and St. Tha- leus's Koss form the north-eastern and south-western extremes lithe extensive Gulf of Anadir, into the bottom of which the iver of that name empties itself, separating, as it passes, the ountry of the Tschutslci form that of the Koriaks. On the 3rd of July, at twelve, the latitude was 63 deg. 33 min. d longitude 186 deg. 45 min. Between twelve and one, they escried the Tschukotskoi Noss, bearing north-half-west, at the stance of thirteen or fourteen leagues. At five in the after- oon saw the island of St. Laurence, in direction of east three uartcrs north; and also another island, which it was imagined nas between St. Laurence and Anderson's Island, about ighteen miles east-south-east of the former. The latitude of the island of St. Laurence, according to the 09t accurate observations, is 63 deg. 47 min. ; and its longi- ;ude is 188 deg. 15 min. This island, if its boundaries were at resent within view, is about three leagues in circumference. lie northern part of it may be discerned at the distance of ten lor a dozen leagues; but as it has some low land to the south- east, the extent of which could not be perceived some of the crew supposed that it might perhaps be joined to the land to the eastward of it ; they were, however, prevented by the lliaziness of the weather from ascertaining this circumstance. Tliese islands, as well as the land adjoining to the Tschukotskoi Nosp were covered with snow, and pi ; and 69 deg., which, owing to the fogj weather last year, they had not been able to examine. In tl attempt they were again in part dissappointed ; for, on the 7t about six o'clock in the morning, the ships were stopped b large body of ice, stretching from north-west to south-east: ; bi not long afterwards, the horizon becoming clear, they had view of the American coast, at the distance of about ten league extending from north-easf-by-east to east, and lying between ( deg. and 68 deg. 20 min. of northern latitude. The ice not beii high, they were enabled, by the clearness of the weather, to « over a great extent of it. The whole exhibited a compact sot surface, not in the least thawed, and seemed also to adhere the land. The weather becoming hazy soon after, they lost sight of tl land; and it being impossible to approach nearer to it, the steered to the north-north-west, keeping the ice close on-board and having, by noon, got round its western extremity, the] found it tended nearly north. Their longitude, at this time, 192 deg. 34 min., and latitude 68 deg. 22 min. They proceedi along the edge of the ice to the north-north-east during the mainder of the day, passing through many loo^e pieces whi had been separated from the mam body, and against whid the vessels were driven with great violence, notwithstanding utmost caution. About eight in the evening they passed soi drift-wood ; at midnight the wind veered to the north-west, am there were continued showers of snow and sleet. The themn meter had now fallen from 38 deg. to 31 deg. The next morning, at five o'clock, the wind shifting more the northward, they c ould continue no longer on the same tackJ by reason of the ice, but were under the necessity of standing towards the west. On Friday the 9th, a fresh gale blew froratli«| north-north-west, accompanied with violent showers of snow and sleet. The thermometer, at noon, was at 30 deg. They steered west-south-west, and kepi as near the main-body of ice as they could; but had the misfoitune to damage the cutwater against the drift pieces, and rub oTsome of the sheathing from the bows. The shocks, indeed, which the ships received, were frequently very severe, and were attended with considerable hazard. The latitude, at noon, was 69 deg. 13 min.^ and longitude 188 deg. 6 min. Having now sailed almost forty leagues to the west, along the edge of the ice, without perceiving any opening, or a clear sea beyond it towards the north, they had no prospect of making further progress to the northward at present. Captain Gierke, therefore, determined to bear away to the south by east, the only quarter which was quite clear, and to wait till the season was somewhat more advanced before he made any further attempts to penetrate through the ice. He proposed to employ the inter- ill '"J ■nil .1 ' ,,f Y->dJ ,X.*\ iljl| . . *«n s{ , AWdk «-■'• ■,;i« >/m L.:ai>d.t ■)rf'^ Mi fit V7--?i «!}{%<. **i hiD ixii •0 y/h ,1 lijiii jiii K i.>- J neiit, betwol "^l ,nr#ajJno^ oa^nm:/ '•' <" i^u . - i *•,;, ,. iiT/, ihn to the fopl 1 ■-»^< '^ am wo .(j^iti*/ ..-j i' 'i* hr:-: \.:^ ^.' «. ,"->ihivH:i .di nine. In tl ''I 'n'U(n«/'> .»! *»M*; .iwi !mji /^^^j v .-d) .ji:- -' wmI T^.f^ii:j«ir/ r* on the 7(1 '^^^ •''» ""'♦ : ^»>JMi' Tft-f-'j/' iitsq .n.i iijity*. n»^v. / Ji Minjiiic stopped b J ('''^jqo^ J'^'^" •'•'l^*'^'^ wb , :4iw«n4' m ^ >-!.(. rv j#i(»d« ith-easi; bj '?«•> r/ *tn4.« iB'rVil :<«!M>3iiie »» ki sK^d --ani^ .■»l h'jI loodiiTlo ^fiii/.J/rih -}dl Ui j»^fii..' ueiri-iaj/ **<'li ir^ fs-^if •ihu oj {iftlc hitssi*-ji>. hat. .Wyf^^^ :'j,'A ■^i^^ iv " . , they had] t ten leaguef r between! ice not beid Bather, to g] impact solj to adhere! sight of t\i • to it, tk ie on-boarj emity, th«j »s time, y proceede ring the ieces whio Eiinst whici standing i >assed son h-west, and ^e thermo Jig more I same tackJ >f standing 5wfromtli«| snowi ley steered! ice as theyj er a£ the bom.! frequently ird. The! , Jrf^k J?ol I'nit .-r^fif, ar.'^-j* ?x5d i^ ;«i <■*■>••> - t-«"t . - ■'Una VA>h ^rA yib \:f:'--r->A .'■■ y^'-nrt'Hi ^iti<--^ rJ; > ,r\ .- .•■!-■• lu. • jv'Oir .•.ji!iJ f.uii ;s . .:.i:'i*-ri-^.-5 j ^riifF .ilnxi /hjii^u l-r.t>:v./ • ■t. i.i'fJKt*: V- ■'l%li'.?-\<-:-iSi. lit; •tj; ,ii< -t-^^jg /'mIT ,»^b««J 3£ fJXf .Jt -.'vifl .t:>IfKnOiM1ri'f-»ryx ^!<|/.k. ^f'j tl>«iw .frr^^fii ,.^ji>*-iif«s -vjT 3 188deg.|'^'>h «dl ■jb»/i:g^>i ba« ,,iL':ii kl *g5J? ^d e«7# ,«♦.■:« it il^ofijsf Jii^ ■5«o{'b Jia^w 3<#i oi ?^iff^A iftJfA J^u-fll^ b^iii;« wc-fs -^nrfuM along the clear sea f making n Gierke, , the only Lson was] attempts he inter- f,t "I ! I II ;-iJi:i j.'tj ^(iirjiiifi, rjj if^'i^i^c-iq ph fe r)>(; 'l > vhich seemed have lain a long time in the water. The larger one was, i length, ten or eleven feet, and in circumference, about three] without either the bar'c or the branches. They proceeded to the eastward on the 14th, wi*h thick foggJ weather. The next day, the wind blowing fresh from the wesl and having in some measure dispersed the fog, they unmediatell steered to the north, in order to have a i>t«rer vtft#pf the iwj and were soon close in with it. It extetid^ froT%.iiqirth-nortt| west, to north-east, and was solid and compiptstrdlie exterior] parts were ragged, and of various heights ; the loiter ; surface] was even; and, as was supposed, from eight to teii f^ above] the level of the sea. The weather becoming modey ^^jidurinj] the rest of the day, they shaded their course ac^ireKng the tending of the ice, which in several' pkces fdfip(e4 dei V'^iira ■ .':';:' ■■■ Thfc latitude, at noon of the 17th, was 69 deg. 5$^^.,anil| the'r longitude, 194 deg. 30 min. The wfed slackened in tie! evening, and about midnight they had a calm. A light breeze arising ^om tKe east-north-east, at five in tliel morning of the 18th, they continued their progress towards tbej north, with £. view of regaining the ice as soon as possibly; tliej] saw a number of sea-parrots, and small ice bitd^, and aW man;] whales ; and passed several logs of drift-wood. The latitude, i twelve o'clock, was 70 deg. 26 min., and the longitude 194 de| 54 min, The soundings, at the ,'iame time, were thr*e-«iii| twenty fathoms, and the ice extended from north to ea»t»nortli-] east, being about one league distant. r The weather cleaving up at one in the morning of the i9tliJ they bore away to thj north-east till two o'clock, when th^ were I again so completely embayed by the ice, that no opening ref mained, except to the southward; to which quarter ;they tnerel fore directed their coarse, and returned through a veiy sinootlil water, with favourable weathor, by the same wav they had come in. The ships were never able to penetrate farther totrards the north than at this time, when the latitude was 70 deg. 83 min., which was about five leagues short of the point to which they Iwd] advanced the preceding summer. They stood to the soutli- south-west, with light wmds from the north-west, near the edgei of the main body of ice, which was situated on the left hand, ex- tending between the ships and the American coast. At noon the latitude was 70 deg. 11 min., and our longitude 196 deg. 15 1 min. ; and the soundings were sixteen fatJK^s. It was siip-i posed from this circumstance, that the Icy Cape was at the dis tance of only seven or eight leagues from them. Two white bears appearing in the water during the afternoon, some of our people immediately pursued them m the jolly boat, and were so fortunate as to lull them both. The larger one, which, was in all probability^ the dam of the younger, being shot 780. ■»vhich seemed arger one was,i ence, about threel i, wiHi thick foggJ )sh ftpwai the vvesj , they unmediateH er ykiWq( the iceil frora iibrth-nortb^l pp.at: ,die •exteriorj the iotier;Surface| to 'teii i^;.abov;| ;- .moder -ijr^iclury liTse aceovmng tol Aces foii^gt^ deep! deg. 55 mjii^v m slackened in tlie| jast, at five in tkl 3gress towards tlie| L as possibly; 6bi, and also maojl The kititude, a ongitude 194 ded , were three-anil »rth to east*nortli-| s • . ! ;v;- I ling of the iKtlJ I, when th^ were no openiag re- iiarter ^ey there- f h a velry Mnoothj they ojut come ler t p 7/ f/ '"•'it •♦1(1 i . fblKt «•« • i ?f • ( ,' ! (uit {>f>t . .1?. ,( -i,,,,^ ,^ .w!- •fiy^ vf -'ttjs^/m II' I ■il.tuil .•>\?-i» ,il. '• >{!k»J<> ui^ 'vr, fffXiiv u. MS I i, „l. .] f?r!,,"fp} >jiimifjn rif'.ft H *i(»ir'i» f t • in.U- of i-.n i-'fV.' >«f5i > ' j 7 '»i ,<<■ tv 111. ' • I ■ > » < '• , V t \ .h illf! * I i< > » r ,'• '■ II ' 1, ' >:> h!i„M til, I I-. .(♦. \u>U I -t'n M li ^ ■•» ,W''<|I 1 I. oitJ j .'!• V .rl'j ,t).> ' i';f!i'f;Hl< 'n liXM^O- ) • ftli. TVW ■) ...1,1 .,^ (■(■,, :'h t-'fJ'* f) !(■•■' 3 •'■ visifisjfnsTll ^ffp/y -mI? •rf .-^a^v* ! (* T ■ : ! . I . ■t ■ 'Pfh A>F)» 'fit;-* r •M ^•, in««>-'t?< y 'fi w<»? tfh .1 H.t|f«! Jt'tfi ( !' ; :•»• . Ml ♦ tt.,! ;ti -vl i,f 1,.-,!: ■?'•' '"<^•<•Ts• •;•'> !)1: I 1 ' Sf^lllf^l'H^ '•:.« 0|n*f 'M'll 7 ;l|t . P; , i.flC J '' »' j'^i^Mta'V ■ « I >. '•'(■'(I lii. h'nintipnil'- 1 i^M! Hi\ •<•- '•iTi'.'fi .»•„• :■> ^tif IP * Ifi; • i',1 <'| '''JB'' ' '^' i^^oqmr tf !jM(^. i!«»>;!"t-».'.?/' ♦»|^.i«« hit;irnt!t-. I' •' ^ >i;-^i nrr cook's third voyage, 1776—1780. 561 first, the other would not leave it, though it might have escaped vith ease on the ice, while the men were re-loading their mus- kets, but continued swimming about, till, after having been Igeveral times fired upon, it was shot dead. The length of the Tlarger one, from the snout to the end of the tail, was seven feet Wo inches; its circumference, near the fore legs, was four feet Iten inches ; the height of the shoulder was four feet three inches ; land the breadth of the fore paw was ten inches. The weight of its four quarters was four hundred and thirty -six pounds. The four-quarters of the smallest weighed two hundred and fifty-six pounds. These animals furnished some good meals of fresh meat. Their flesh, indeed had a strong fishy taste, but was infinitely superior to that of the sea-horse ; which, however, our people I were again persuaded, with no great difficulty, to prefer to their salted provisions. On Tuesday the 20th, at six in the morning, a thick fog arising, they lost sight of the ice for the space of two hours ; but when the weather became clearer, they again had a view of the main body to the south-south-east, and immediately hauled their wind, which was easterly, toward it, expecting to make the American coast to the south-east, which was effected between ten and eleven o'clock. The latitude at noon, was 69deg. 33 min. and the longi- tude 194 deg. 63 min. The depth of water, at the same time, was nineteen fathoms. The land was at the distance of eight or ten leagues, extending from south by east to south-south-west half west. They continued to sail in i\u, <«rtemoon through a sea of lnf)se ice, and to steer towards the land, as near as the vdnd, whi( i blew from east^south-east, would permit. Th< soundings, at midnight, were twenty fathoms. The next morning, at eight o'clock, the wind freshening, and the fog dispersing, they again had sight of the coast of A nerica to the soiita-eastward, at the distance of nine or tt mi leagues, and hauled in for it; but the ice in a short time effe- tually stopped their further progress on that sidej and they were obliged to bear away towards the west, along the edge of it. Their latitude at twelve, was 69 deg. 34 min.; longitude 193 deg., ad their soundings were twenbr-four fathoms. A connected solid field of ice, thus baffling all efforts to make a nearer approach to the land, and (as they had some reason to imagine) adhering to it, they relinquished all hopes of a north- east passage to Great .Britain. Captain Gierke now finding it impossible to advance farther to the northward on thv^ American coast, and deeming it equally improbable that such a vast quantity of ice should be dissolved by the few remaining weeks that would terminate the summer, considered it as the best step that could be taken, to trace the iea over to the coast of Asia, and endeavour to find some open- ' i I 662 cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. ing that, would admit him further norths to see what more couldl be done upon that coast, where he hoped to meet with betterl success. I In the afternoon of Wednesday the 2l8t of July, they con-j tinued to steer through much ice to the west-north-west ; but, abouti ten at night, they discovered through the fog the principal body oil it, almost close a-head, and being unwilling to take a southerly! course, if it could be avoided, they stood to the northward : in less than an hour, however, they were obliged to tack to the I south-soutu-west^ as they found themselves surrounded by compact field of ice. Captain Clerke had twice traversed this sea, since the 8th of | this month, and that in lines almost parallel with the course he i now steered ; the first time he was unable to penetrate so far I north as the second by eight leagues, and that this last time a compact body of ice had been observed commonly five leagues further south than before. This clearly proves that the vast and solid fields of ice which had been seen, were decreasing, or move- able, at the same time, it does not leave any well-founded expec- tation of advancing much farther in the most favourable seasons. They steered westward, about seven in the evening, as no ice was then to be seen : but they soon afterwards found themselves close to the main body of it ; they were subsequently necessitated to steer again to the eastward, und to keep plying to windward during the night, in order to avoid the loose pieces of ice, which often surrounded them in such quantities as to endanger their being blocked up by them. Next morning Captain Clerke found the clear water, in which they were attempting to stand to and fro, did not exceed a mile and a half, and was speedily lessening ; at half-past seven the Resolution forced a passage to the southward, which she accom- plished with great difiiculty. The Discovery was not, however, so fortunate, for about eleven o'clock, when she had almost got through, several large pieces of ice was driven so forcibly upon her, that she fell, with her broad-side foremost, upon the edge of a large body of ice, upon which she was driven very violently, having an open sea to windward. The mass having in a little time been somewhat moved or broken, she had Just got free so far as to make an attempt to escape, when she again fell to lee- ward on another fragment. The swell on the sea at this time made it dangerous to lie to windward, they therefore pushed into a small opening, furled their sails, and made fast with ice- hooks, having no prospect of getting clear. Captain Clerke observed them thus criticallv situated about noon, standing to the north-west, about three milts from the Resolution, while the body of ice betwixt them was fad increasing by a south-easterly gale. At this time the Resolution had twenty-eight fathoms' water, longitude 187 deg. latitude 69 deg. 8 mm. To add to the dis- mal apprehensions, the weather in a little time became so hazy COOK*S THIRD VOYAGE, 1776— 1780. 6«^ I ^t she Idst sight of the Discovery ; meantime she kept close to the edge of the ice, to be as near her as possible. Ailer being much alarmed for her fate the whole afternoon, about nine C?ip- tain Gierke was agreeably surprised to hear iier answer their sig- nal of firing a gun, which the Resolution had continued ever since she had lost sight of her. In a little time she hailed and in- formed them that the wind having changed to the north, the ice WPS somewhat cleared, she therefore had bent all her sails^ and forced her passage through ; that, while she had been encom- passed by the ice, the ship had drifted to the eastward, with the main body, nearly half a mile an hour ; the strokes she had re- ceived in falling on the edge of the ice, had rubbed off a great part of the sheathing from her bows, and she had become very leaky. Next forenoon the course they had continued to the south-east, was again obstructed by a large body of loose ice, to which they could see no end, though the day was clear They tlierefore plied to windward, the latitude at noon hemff 68 deg. 33 min., and the longitude 188 deg., variation of compass 33 deg. 30 min. east. Finding it necessary that some determination should be imme- diately taken what course was proper to be pursued, the carpen- ters were ordered aboard the Discovery to examine into her situa- tion ; whose report along with that of Captain Gore, was, that her damages were such as required touching immediately at some port^ and they would be at least three weeks in repairing. Cap- tain Gierke therefore determined to steer immediately for Awatska Bay, to repair the damages, and if possible to explore the coast of Japan before the winter set in : and this he resolved on, not only from Gaptain Gore's report of the situation of the Discovery, but that any attempt to proceed further to the northward, or to approach nearer to the continent on either hand was utterly impracticable. The joy which every countenance aboard the ships expressed on this resolution being made public, needs not be concealed. Heartily sick of a navigation so dangerous, with so little prospect of success, they turned their faces homewards vnth as much seeming satisfaction as if they were already at the Land's End. On the 28th and 29th they made but little progress to the southward, the breeze from the south-east being pretty strong, and passed Gape Serdze Kamen, so named on the authority of Muller. At seven in the evening of the 30th they observed Cape Prince of Wales, about six leagues distant, bc-jring soutli- by-east ; as also the island of St. Diomede, bearing south-west- by-west. Having altered their course to the west, they made the East Cape by eight. Havingf steered south-soudi-west through the night, at four in the morning the East Gape bore north-north- east, and the north-east corner of St Laurence Bay, where they last year anchored, bore west by south, at four leagues distance. . 564 cook's 'THfllD VOTACE> 1776—1780, Theidiips'Uavihg^ ndvrpassedBehrini^'s Strait^ and taken li final leave of the north-east coast of Asia, we will mention the grounds on which the voyagers oppose the opinions of Mr. I MuUer. ' First, that the easternmost point of that qiiart^r of I the globe is the promontoi^ named East Cape ; or, that no partf of the continent extends in longitude beyond 190 deg. 22 min. east ; and again, that the latitude of the north-eastern i^Xtremi^ falls to the southward of 70 deg. north. "As to thte first, if such land exists, it must necessaruy 'lie to the horth of latitude 69 deg., where our present discoveries terminated; we will there- fore, in the first place, endeavour to investigate the probable direction of the coast. '* The only navigators of these seas hitherto have been the Russians, consequently the charts and Journals of those who have been from time to time employed in determining the limits of that empire, are our oiily directions as to the situations of the coast beyond Cape North ; and, a proper notion of their pretended, much less their real discoveries, is very difficult t6 be formed from their confused accounts. Hence arises the disaigreement of Russian geographers concerning the size and shape of the peninsula inhabited by the Tschntski. In Mr. Muller's maj) pub- lished in 1754,, it is supposed to reach the 75th degree of latitude, and 190 deg. east longitude of Greenwich, and that it terminates in a round cape, named by him Tschukotskoi Noss. To the southward of tnis he conceives ai bay' is formed to the westward, the northernmost point of which is Serdze Kainen, in latitude 67 deg. 18 min. The whole peninsula is entirely differently formed again, in the map published in 1776, by the Petersburgh Academy, who place it thus; the north-easternmost extremity, latitude 73 deg. longitude 178 deg. 30 min. The easternmost point, latitude 65 deg. 30 min., longitude 189 dr^. 30 min. Any other maps we have seen vaiy from both these, probably more from conjecture than any solid, reasons. In seneral, however, they agree in this, that the East Cape is situated in latitude 66 deg. No regard can be paid to the Academy map, as to the shape of the coast, either to the south or north of this cape. Mr. Muller's map in general coincides with our survey, so far as ours goes, only to the west- ward it does not t^nd enough ; in the latitude of 66 deg. and 69 deg., it only recedes 5 deg. instead of 10 deg. at least. Between the latitude' of 69 deg. and 74, he marks the coast as forming a considerable promontory, by bending round to the north and north-east. We shall now examine upon what authority. *^ This subject has been much elucidated by Mr. Coxe, who is of opinion that none ever passed the point of the Noss in question butDeshneff and his party in 1648, who are said to have passed round it into the Anadir. In Mr. Coxe's Account of Russian Discoveries, the particulars of this nav" ' '+'on may be seen at lar^e ; but as it contains no geographicai v*<58criptioii of the eoast accidental circumstances are the only direction for iti^: situation, taken si final mention the I ions of Mr. I t qiiatt^r ofl hat no partf leg. 22 min. 11 (dxtremity first, if such latitude 69 ( will there- e probable e been the those who ^ the limits ions of the pretended, oe formed laigreehient ape of the > maj) pub- )f latitude, terminates . To the westward, atitude 67 ly formed A-cadeiiiy, atitude 73 t, latitude maps -«ve onjecture ee in this, Jgard can atf either 1 general :he west- % and 69 Between cook's third VOYAGE; 1776—1780. irom these it is however very clear, that the promontorv whicli^ Captain Cook named the East Cape, is Tschukotskoi Noss of DeshnefT. Of this Noss, he savs, 'One might sail from the isthmus to the river. Anadir in three days and nights, with a fair wind.' Now as the East-Cape is about one hundred and twenty leagues from the muuth of the Anadir, and betwixt that and cV deg. of latitude, there is no isthmus to the north, it is clear ho I must either mean the East Cape or one more southerly. Again . he says, ' Over against the isthmus there are two islands in tne sea, upon which were seen people of the Tschutski nation, through whose lips were run pieces of the teeth of the sea-horse.' 'fills exactly corresponds with the two islands on the south-east of the cape. It is true, we saw no inhabitants ; but it is far from being improbable that some of the Americans of the oppo- site continent, whom he might readily mistake for a tribe of the Tschutski^ might accidentally be there ; and it is noticeable, tlnit this descnption exactly suits him."^ " We shall now mention some other proofs, which tend to confirm the point, though not so clearly as the preceding two, which appear to us conclusive. Dee- -.eff elsewhere says, * To go from the Kovyma to the Anadir, a great promontory must be doubled, which stretches very far into the sea.' Again, * This promontory stretches between liorth and north-east.' In these passages we probably have Mr. Muller's principal authority ibr giving the country of the Tschutski the form he nas done in his map ; to invalidate which we may notice, that DeshneflF is all along speaking of the same place, and had Mr. Muller under- stood the situation of East Cfape, and its great similaritvin shape to the other, he would not have considered these words a sulfi- cieiit foundation for stretching the north-east extremity of Asia either so far north or east, as he has done. Indeed, if Deshneif took his bearings from the small bight, lying to the westward of the cape, his account is by no means contradictory to our opimon, " Besides that just mentioned, we can think of no authority for Mr. Muller's opinion, if it be not the deposition of Cos- sack PopoiF, taken in 1711, at the Anadirskoi ostrog. He with several other Cossacks, had been sent by land to demand a tri- bute from the independent Tschutskoi tribes living about the * From th circumstance which gave name to Sledge Island, formerly mentioned, it !i cerLiin tnat the inhabitants of the continent occaaionally Tisit the adjacent small islands, probably for fishing, or in search of furs. Popofi^s Reposition, which will be mentioned hereafter, gives a good reason for Deshneff supposing them to be of the Tschutski, fVom the great resemblance between them and the hihabitaats of the Islands Ue says, that, " Opposite to the Noss, is an island of moderate size, without trees, whose i'ihabitants resemble, in their exterior, the Tschutski, although they are qmte another nation ; not numerous indeed, yet speaking their own particular language." Likewise, in another place, " One may go in a baidare from the Noss to the island ia half a day; beyond is a great continent, which can be discovered from the island in •erene weather. When tiie weather is good, one may go from the island to the continent i& a day. The inhabitattts of the continent are similar to the Tschutski, excepting that thin iptak another language." 2C 6 I I 606 cook's third VOYAGE/ 1776—1780. Noss. The first uircumstanoe tending to throw liffht on the snkgectl from this journey is its distance from Anadirsk ; which^ Popoffl nay a, was ten weeks travellings with loaded rein^deer^ conse-f qnently their day's journey was but short; a very vague mettMNjI of calculations but our opinion will at least receive a negative sup- I)ort from it, when we mention that the distance is upwards, of 200 eag^Et iit a straight line, so that it is but a moderate allowance to give 15 miles a^lar. The deposition then mentions their | travelling by the foot of a rock called Matkol^ situated at the bot- tom bf a great gulf. This Muller supposes to be the bay he laid down between latitude 66 de^. and 73 deg.^ and accordingly places Matkol in the centre of it. But as they behoved to touch soitvewhere in the gulf of Anadir, this seems more probable, were there no other reasons to doubt the existence oi Muller's gulf. " But the part of Popoff 's deposition quoted in the preceding note gives good ground to believe, that the cape visited by him cannot be to the northward of 69 deg. latitude ; for, as at that latittide, the two continents are more than three hundred miles distant from each other, that the Asiatic coast should again tend so much to the eastward, as to be within sight, is a ridim- lous supposition. *'^ It is needless to enter further into the arguments on this subject, further than barely mentioning, that Mr. King is de- cidedly of opinion that the Tschukotskoi Noss, not onlv of Deshneff, but all the more early Russian navigators, is the East Cape: and that the Asiatic coast no where exceeds 70 deg. northern latitude, ^.^fore it tends to the westward; and con- sequently that we were within 1 deg. of its north-eastern ex- tremity. " It is highly probable, that a north-west passage from the Atlantic into the Pacific Ocean does not exist to the southward of the sixty-fifth degree of latitude. If, therefore, a passage really exists, it must certainly be either through Baffin's bay, or by the north of Greenland, in the western hemisphere ; or in the eastern, through the Frozen Sea, to the north of Siberia; and on whichever side it is situated, the navigator must pass through the straits distinguished by the name of Behring's Straits. The impracticability of penetrating into the Atlantic Ocean on either side, through these straits, is therefore all that now remains to be offered to the reader's consideration. *' The sea to the northward of Behring's Straits, was found by us to be more free from ice in August than in July, and perhaps in some part of September it may be still more clear of it. But, after tne autumnal equinox, th^'^ length of the day diminishes so fast, that no further thaw can be expected ; and we cannot reasonably attribute so great an effect to the warm weather in the first fortnight in the month of September, as to imagine it capable of dispersing the ice from the most northern cook's third voyage, 17/6 — 1780. 667 purto of the coast of America. Admitting thia^ however^ to be possible, it must at least be allowed, that it would be highly absurd to attempt to avoid the Icj Gape, by running to the known parts of Baffin's Bay, (a distance of about twelve hundred ^nd sixty miles) in so short a space of time as that passage can be supposed to remain open. " There appears, on the side of Asia, still less probability of success, not only from what came to our knowledge, relative to the state of the sea to the southward of Gape Nortn, but like- wise from what we have gathered from the experience of the lieutenants under the direction of Behring, and the Journal of Shalauroff, respecting that on the north of Siberia. *^ The possibility of sailing round the north-eastern extremity of Asia, is undoubtedly proved by the voyage of Deshnefi*, if its truth be admitted ; but when we reflect, that, since the time of that navigator, near a century and a half has elapsed, during which, in an age of curiosity and enterprise, no person has yet been able to ibllow him, we can entertain no very sanguine expectations of public benefits which can be derived from it. But even on the supposition, that in some remarkably favour- able season, a vessel might find a clear passage round the coast of Siberia, and arrive in safetj^ at the mouth of the Lena, still there remains the Cape of Taimura, extending to the seventy- eightli degree of latitude, which no navigator has hitherto had the good fortune to double. " Some, however, contend, that there are strong reasons for believing, that the nearer approach we make to the pole, the sea is more clear of ice ; and that all the ice we observed in the lower latitudes, had originally been formed in the great river's of Siberia and America, from the breaking up of which the intermediate sea had been filled. But even if that supposition be true, it is no less certain that there can be no access to those open seas, unless this prodigious mass of ice is so far dis- solved in the summer, as to admit of a ship's making its way through it. If this be the real fact, we made choice of an im- proper time of the year for attempting to discover this passage, which should have been explored in the months of April and May, before the rivers were broken up. But several reasons may be alleged against such supposition. Our experience at Petropaulowska gave us an opportunity of judging what might be expected further northward; and, upon that ground, we had some reason to entertain a doubt, whether the two con- tinents might not, during the winter, be even joined by the ice ; and this coincided with the accounts we heard in Kamtschatka, that on the coast of Siberia, the inhabitants, in winter, go out from the shore upon the ice, to distances that exceed the breadth of the sea in some parts, from one continent to the other. '* The following remarkable particular is mentioned in the S68 COOK'S TrtlRl) VOTAOB, 1776— 17«0; dt^OflitiarH ' abdve rtfetted to. Spe&king^f the Irnid seen (Vom tYld'l^cliMikotskoi NosS) it is stiid^ that during the summer they sail in "^irte'day to the land In baidares, a. kind of a 'vessel l^hftA^d of Whalebone, atid covered with the skins of< seats; ftnd, rri'the'^ntetVAs they go swift -with' rein-deer, the jowrneytnay also be'lperformed m a day. A satisfactory* proof> that the two cotttitfleii weve generally connected by the ice. "** Muiler*s 'aca8t was 'ry great distant. 1 as the ■ed and tAP) «uA was carried overboard with the mast, but was after- itards taken up, without having received the least injury. He was midshipman on board the Dolphin, c«:>mmanded by Com- modore Byron, when he lirst sailed round the world ; and was afterwards on the American station. In the year 1768, he made his second voyage roimd the world, in the situation of maater's mate in the Endeavour; and, during the expedition succeeded to a lieutenancy. In the Resolution he made a third voy^e round the world, in the capacity of seccnd lieutenant : and soon after his return in 1756, he was promoted to the rank of master and commander. In the present expedition he was appointed captain of the Discovery, and to accomjiany Captain Cook. By the calamitous death of the latter, he succeeded, as has been already mentioned, to the chief command. It would be doing his memory extreme ii\justice and ingrati- tude not to say, that during the short time he commanded the expedition, he was most zealous for its success. About the time when the principal command devolved upon him, his health began rapidly to decline ; and was every way unequal to en- counter the rigour of a high northern climate. The vigour of his mind, however, was not in the least impaired by the decay of his bodyr and though he was perfectly sensible that hi!) delaying to return to a warmer climate, was depriving him of the only chance of recovery ; yet, so attentive was he to his duty, that he was determined not to suffer his own situation to bias his jud^ent to the prejudice of the service ; he, therefore, persevered in the search of a passage, till every officer in the expedition declared they were of opinion it was impracticable, and that any further attempts would not only be fruitless but hazardous. Captain King sent a messenger to Captain Goie, to ficquaint Iiim with the death of Captain Clerke, and received a letter from Captain Gore, containing an order for Captain Kii^»g to exert his utmost endeavours to keep in company with the Dis- covery, and> if a separation should happen, to repair, as soon as possible, to St. Peter and St. Paul. Their latitude at noon was 6<: deg. 8 rain, north, and loTigitude 160 deg. 40 min. east; Cheepoonskoi Noss then bea-.ing west. In the afternoon had light airs, which continued ti!l noon on the 23rd; when a fresh breeze springing up from the east, they steered for the entrance of Awatska Bay, which they saw about six in the evening, bearing west-north-west, distant about five leagues. At eight, the hght-house, which now furnished a good light, was about three miles distant, and bore north-west-by-west. It was now a perfect calm; but as the tide was favourable, the boats were sent a-head, and towed beyond the narrow parts of the entrance. On the 34th, at one in the morning, they dropped anchor, the ebb-tide then setting against them. Weighed about nine o'clock, and went up the bay with light ij !l i 573 COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE, 1^76—1780. aira, which being afterwards succeeded h\ a fresh breeze^ the Resolution anchored before three in the harbour of St. Peter anid St. Paul ; with the ensi^ half staff, on account of canring the body of Iheir late captain, and were soon after followed by the Discovery, They had no sooner anchored, than they were visited by their old friend the sergeant, (still the commanding officer of the place) who brought with him a present of berries, intended for Captain Gierke. He was much affected when told of his death, and when shewed the coffin wherein his body was deposited. As the deceased captain particularly requested to be buried on- shore, and gave the preference to the church at Paratounca, they embraced this opportunity of consulting viith the sergeant about the necessary steps to be pursued upon the occasion. After much conversation on this subject, which was very irn- perfectly carried on, for want of an interpreter, they gathered mtelligence that De L'J^le, and some other Russian gentlemen, who had died there, were buried near the barracks, at the ostrog of St. Peter and St. Paul, and that this place would cer- tainly be more eligible than Paratounca, as the church was shorUy to be removed thither. They therefore determined to wait me arrival of the priest of Paratounc;i, who wa& immedi- ately to be sent for, as being the i)erson Lest qualified to give any information required on the subject. It was a general remark, that, though the face of the country had improved in its appearance since the ships had left it, the Russians looked even worse now than they did then. ' On the 25th of August, in the mornmg. Captain Gore, in consequence of the death of Captain Clerke, made out the neiv' commissions. He appointed himself to the command of the Resolution, and Mr. iCing to that of the Discovery. Mr. Lau- yan, who was master's mate of the Resolution, and who had been in that crpacity in the former voyage, on-board the Adven- turp, was appointed to the vacant lieutenancy. The following arrangements were the consequence of these promotions. Lieu- tenants Burney and Rickman (from the Discovery) were ap- pointed first and second lieutenants of the Resolution ; and Lieutenant Williamson first lieutenant of the Discovery. Cap- tain King, by the pernxission of Captain Gore, took in four mid- shipmen, vmo had rendered themselves useful to him in the astronomical calculations ; and whose assistance was become the more necessary, as tliey had no ephemeris for the present year. And that rstronomical observations might not be ne- glected to be mad3 in either ship, Mr. Bayly took Captain King's place in t^s Resolution. On the same day their ships were visited by the worthy priest of Paratounca. His expressions of sorrow at the death of Cap- tain Clerke did honour to his feelings. He confirmed what tne sergeant had related, with respect to the intended removal of the 1 breeze^ the St. Peter arid canring the owed by the ited by their [fficer of the intended for of his death, IS deposited, e buried on- Paratounca, he sergeant ca&ion. 'as very im- ey gathered gentlemen, icks, at the ! would cer- church was termined to as immedi- Sed to give n Gore, in ut the neiv' ind of the Mr. Laii- who had le Adven- foUowing as. Lieu- were ap- tion; and ry. Cap- four mid- m in the become le present ot be ne- in King's cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. 573 church, and assured them that the timber was actually prepating, but submitted, the choice of either place entirely to Captain. As the Discovery "had suffered great injury from the ice, espci' cially on the 23rd of July, and had continued exceedingly leaky ever since, it was apprehended that some of het timbers might have started ; the carpenters of the Resolution Wte there*' fore sent to assist those of the Discovery in repairing her, arid they accordingly began to rip the damaged sheathing from the larboard bow. It was discovered* by this operation, that thre^^ feet of the third strake were staved, and the timbers started; To accommodate those who were to be employed on-shore, a tent was erected, and a party was sent into the country, north of the harbour, to fell timber. The observatories were placed at the west end of the village, near which was erected a tent, as an abode for the Captains Gore and King. As they proceeded to remove the sheathing, the decayed state of the ship's hull became more and more apparent. Eight feet of the plank in the wale were so exceedingly rotten, that they were obliged to shift it the next morning ; and nothing could be found to replace it in either ship, without cutting up a top-mast, which ought to be the last expedient to have recourse to. In the afternoon the carpenters were dispatched in search of a tree of a proper size for the purpose. Fortunately they discovered a birch, which was probably the only one of sufficient magnitude in the whole neighbourhood of the bay, and which they had sawed down when last here; consequently it had the advantage of being a little seasoned. This was prepared on the spot, and taken on-board the Discovery the next morning. ' ^^* *''h *^ '«•-* The season being now far advanced. Captain King was unwil- ling that any hinderance or delay should happen through him to Captain Gore's further views of discovery, and therefore ordered the carpenters to rip off no more of the sheathing than should be found absolutely necessary for repairing the damages occa- sioned by the ice. He was apprehensive of their meeting with more decayed planks, which he thought had better remain in that state, than have their places supplied with green birch, even supposing it could be procured. All hands were now fully employed in their several depart- ments, that they might be perfectly ready for sea by the time the carpenters had completed their business. Four men were set apart to haul the seine for salmon, which were caught in im- mense quantities, and were of a most excellent quality. After the wants of both ships were sufficiently supplied, they daily salted down almost a hogshead. Four invalids were employed gathering greens, and cooking for those who vrore on-shore. The po\ifuer was also landed, in order to be dried ; and the sea- horse Wubber, vrith which both ships, in their passage to the north had stored themselves, was now boiled down for oil. :• ( 574 cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. which was now become a necessary article, the candles having long since been expended. The cooper was fully engaged in his department ; and in this manner were both ships' companies em- ployed in their several occupations, till Saturday afternoon, which was given up to all the men, except the carpenters, for the fturpose of washing their linen, and gettmg their clothes in some ittle order, that they might make a decent appearance on Sunday. On Sunday the 29th, in the afternoon, were performed the last sad offices to Captain Gierke. The officers and crews of the two vessels attended him in procession to the grave ; the ships at the same time, tiring minute guns ; and at the conclusion of the service, three vollies were fired by the marines. The body was interred under a tree which stands on a little eminence in the val- ley north of the harbour, where the store-houses and hospital are situated ; this being. Captain Gore supposed, such a situation as was most consonant to the wishes of the deceased. Tlie priest of Paratounca recommended this spot, imagining it would be very near the centre of the new church. This worthy pastor joined the procession, walking with the gentleman who read the service. All the Russians in the garrison assembled on the occasion, and respectfully assisted in the solemnity. On Monday the 30th, the several parties reassumed their re- spective employments, and on the 2nd of September the carpen- ters proceeded to rip oiGT such of the sheathing as had been injured by the ice, from the starboard side ; having first shifted the damaged planks, and .repaired and caulked the sheathing of the larboard bow, four feet of a plank were discovered in tiie third strake under the wale, so much shaken as to require to be re- placed ; which was accordingly done, and on the 3rd tlie sheathing was repaired. ; On the 5th of September, all the parties that were on-shore re- turned to the ship, and were employed in scrubbing her bottom, and getting in some shingle ballast. Two of the guns, which had been stowed in the fore-hold, we now got up, and mounted on the deck. On the f-th, the Resolution hauled on shore, in or- at Canton. They knew it would be an adnriirable medicine for the scurvy, and therefore \/ere particularly desirous of procuring a considerable supply; as most of the pre- ventives with which they had furnished themselves, were either consumed, or had lost their efficacy through long keeping. When they had prepared about a hogshead of it, the ship's copper was found to be remarkably thin> and that, in many places, it was del arr^ on fortl cref ord^ the dri^ cook's third vo\age, 1776 — 1780. 575 even cracked. This obliged them to desist^ and orders were given that> for the future^ it should be used as sparingly as possible. On Friday the lOthj the boats from both the ships were or- dered to tow a Russian galliot into the harbour^ which had just arri\*ed from Okotsii. She had been no less than thirty-five days on her passage, and, from the light house, had been observed a fortnignt before, beating up towards the mouth of the bay. The crew had, at that time, dispatched their only boat on snore, in order to procure water, which they were much in need of; but, the wind increasing, the boat was lost ; the gaUiot was again driven to sea, and those on-board suffered inconceivable hardships. On-board the galliot there were fifty soldiers, their wives, and children; they had also several passengers, and their- crew con- sisted of twenty-five ; making in the whole upwards of a hun- dred persons : which, for a vessel of eighty tons, was a great number, especially as she was heavily laden with stores and pro- visions. This galliot, and the slcop which they saw here in May, are built in the manner of the Dutch doggers. Soon after the vessel had come to anchor, the ships were visited by a Pat-parouchick, or sub-lieutenant, who arrived in her, and who was sent to take the command of this place. Some of the soldiers, were intended to reinforce the garrison ; and two pieces oi cannon were brought on shore to serve as an additional defence to the town. From these circumstances, it is pretty ap- parent that the Russian commanders in Siberia had, from our visiting this place, been induced to attend to the helpless situa- tion of it ; and the honest sergeant shrewdly observed, that as our men had found the way thither, others might do the same, who might not be made so welcome as they were. Having repaired the damages which the Resolution had suffered by the ice, she hauled off from the shore the next morning ; and, m the course of that day, they got some pitch, tar, cordage, and twine, from the galliot. Their .scanty store rendered them un- able to supply them with cauvass, and they could not comply with an application for that article. She furnished, however, a hundred and forty skins of flour, amounting to 13,783 English pounds. Sunday, the 12th, was a day of rewt; but, as the weather con- tinued foul, the men could not ebiploy themselves in gathering berries which grew in such vast quantities about the coast, or amuse themselves by any other pastime on shore. Ensign Synd left this day to return to Bolcheretsk, with the remainder of the soldiers who had arrived in the galliot. While he remained here, hb had been a constant guest ; and, on his father's account, our voyagers thought him in some degree belonging to them ; and, as one of the famuy of discoverers, entitled to a share in their esteem. The sergeant, as being commander of the place, had hitherto been admitted to their tables : and his company was additionally Mil i: 576 cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. welGome, because he was sensible and quick in his conceptions, and comprehended, better than any other person, the few Rus- sian words that our officers had acquired. Whilst Ensign Synd remained he very politely suffered our men to enjoy the. same privileges ; but when the new commander arrived from Okotsk, the sergeant fell into disgrace, and was not permitted to sit in the company of his own officers. On the 15th, they had completed the stowage of the holds, got wood and water on-board, and were ready for sea at a day's no- lice. But they could not think of taking their departure, because cattle were not yet arrived from Verchnei ; and fresh provisions were now become the most important article of their wants, and essentially necessary for preserving the health of our people. As there was a prospect of fine weather, this was considered as a favourable opportunity of engaging in some amusement on shore, and acquiring some little knowledge of the country. A party of bear-hunting was therefore proposed by Captain Gore, and the proposal was readily acceded to. On Friday, the 17th, they set out on this expedition, which was deferred till that day, in order to give a little rest to the Hos podin Ivaskin, a new acquaintance who had arrived here on Wednesday, and who was to be of the party. Major U^hm had desired this gentleman, who usually resided at Verchnei, to at- tend the ships on their return to the haibour, and assist as an in- terpreter ; and, from what was heard of him before his arrival, curiosity to see him was much excited. He is allied to a considerable family in Russia, and his father was a general in the service of the empress. He received his education partly in German}-, and partly in France ; he had been page to the empress Elizabeth, and bore an ensign's commission m her guards. At sixteen years of age he was knoufed, had his nose slit, and was banished to Siberia. He was afterwards transported to Kamtschatka, and had then resided there thirty- one years. His person was tall and thin, and his visage fur- rowed with deep wrinkles. Old age was strongly depicted in his whole figure, though he had hardly entered his fifty-fourth year. Great was their disappointment when they discovered that he had so totally forgot the French and German languages as not to be able to speak a single sentence, nor readily to comprehend any thing that was said to him in either of those languages. The cause of his banishment remained a secret to every one in this country, but it was generally supposed he had been guilty of some atrocious offence ; especially as several of the commanders of Kamtschatka have exerted their interests to get him recalled in the reign of the present empress ; but they were not able to obtain a change of his place of banishment. He assured them, that, for twenty years, he had not tasted a morsel of bread, nor had been allowed any kind of subsistence ; but had lived all that time^ i^ith the Kamtschadales^ on what he bad P'l jonceptions, le few Rus- insign Synd y thvi same )m Okotsk, id to sit in 3 holds, got a day's no- re, because provisions vants, and eople. As iered as a t on shore, A. party of ^, and the on, which o the Hos J here on Cv^hm had nei, to at- t as an in- lis arrival, lis father eived his had been mmissioh had his "terwards e thirty- age fur- ted in his th year. that he as not to prehend ?s. cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. 577 procured from the chase by liis own activity and toil. After- wards a small pension was allowed him, and his situation has been rendered much less intolerable since Major Behm was appointed to the command. Being taken notice of by so re- spectable a character, who often invited him to become his guest, others were induced to follow his example. The Major had also occasioned his pension to be increased to a hundred roubles a-year, which is an ensign's pay in every other part of the empress's dominions; but in this province all the officers have double pay. Major Behm said, he had obtained permis- sion for him to go to Okotsk, where he was to reside in future ; but that, at present, he should leave him behind, as he might probably be useful as an interpreter on their return to the bay. Orders having been given to the first lieutenants of both ships, that the rigging should be repaired as far as the late supply of stores would permit, the officers proceeded on their hunting party, conducted by the corporal of the Kamtschadales ; but, previous to looking out for game, they proceeded to the head of Behm's harbour, which is an inlet on the west side of the bay. This having been a favourite place of Major Behm's, our officers named it after that officer, though, by the natives, it is called Tareinska. As they advanced towards this harbour, they saw the Toion of St. Peter and St. Paul in a canoe, having with him his wife and two children, and another inhabitant of Kamtschatka. He had just killed two seals on an island in the entrance of the harbour, and was returning home with them, as well as with a large quan- tity of berries which he had gathered. The wind having veered to the south-west, in pursuance of his advice, they now changed their route, and instead of proceeding up the harbour, took a northerly course, towards a pool of water, at a small distance from the mouth of the river Paratounca, whichi was much fire quented by the bears. The next day, being governed by the opinion of the guides, they proceeded to the head of Rakoweena narbour, where they secured the boats, and after>vards went on foot with all their baggage. Having walked about five or six miles, they arrived at the sea side, three miles north of the light-house head. From hence a coritinued narrow border of level ground, adjoining to the sea, extended itself towards Cheei)oonskoi Noss as far as could be seen. It is entirely covered witJi heathy and produces berries in great abundance, especially those which are calied crow aaid partridge berries. -> They were told that there was almost a certainty of finding a number of bears feeding upon these berries, but as the wea- ther was showery, it was unfavourable. Accordingly, they pur- sued their course along the plain, and though several bears were seen at a distance, they could not by any means get within shot 578 cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. of them. Thia diversion was therefore changed to that of spear- ing salmon, which they saw in throngs driving through the surf, into a small river. Here they could not help remarking the inferio- rity of the Kamtschadales, at this kind of fishing, to the natives of Oonalashka ; neither were their instruments, though pointed with iron, near so well adapted to the purpose, nor fabricated with that neatness which those of the Americans were, though pointed only with bone. On asking the cause of this inferiority, they were informed by the corporal, who had long resided amongst the Americans, that formerly the natives of Kamts- chatka used such darts and spears as those of the Americans, and, like theirs, headed and barbed with bone, and were, as dexterous as the latter in the management of them. The Kamtschadales, who attended our party, at length dis- covered that their not meeting with game was occasioned by going in too large a party, and by the unavoidable noise that was the natural consequence of it. This judicious remark induced them to separate ; Captain King, Ivaskin, and the corporal, forming one party, and the other consisting of Captain Gore and the rest of the company. They passed, the night under the tent, and on the morning of the 19th, set out by different routes, in order to take a kind of circuit round the country, and meet at St. Peter and St. Paul. At night both parties reached the ships, after having been full twelve hours upon their legs. The next day (Monday the 20th) they received the disagree- able intelligence, that their friend the sergeant, had suffered corporal punishment, which had been inflicted on him by com- mand of the old Put'parouchick. No one could learn the cause of his displeasure ; but it was supposed to have arisen from some little jealousy, which had been excited by the civility of our people to the former. Imagining, however, that the offence, whatever it might be, could not merit a chastisement so dis- graceful, our officers consulted the worthy Major B^hm, who was likewise the sergeant's friend, how they could render him some service for the excellent order he had preseived in the ostrog during their stay, and for his extreme readiness to^ oblige them upon every occasion that presented itself. The Major said a letter of recommendation to the governor-general would pro- bably have a good effect ; Captain Clerke, accordingly had given him one, which, together with his own representations, he fully expected would get the sergeant advanced in his pro- fession. On Wednesday, the 22nd of September, being the anriver- sary of the coronation of George III. they fired twenty-one guns t and, in honour of the day, prepared as elegant a feast as their situation would allow of. The arrival of Captain Shmaleff was announced the very moment they were sitting down to dinner, and they were equally pleased and surprised at this cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. 579 intelligence. First, because he came so opportunely to take a share m the festivity of the day ; and, in the next place, having lately been informed that the effects of a severe illness had ren- dered him unequal to the journey, they had the satisfaction to hear that this had been merely an excuse ; that, knowing they then were distressed for tea, sugar, &c. he was hurt at the idea of coming empty-handed, and therefore had deferred his setting out, impatiently waiting for the arrival of a sloop from Okotsk ; but hearing no intelligence of her, and fearing our ships should sail before he had visited them, he was resolved to prosecute the journey, though he had nothing to present but apologies for the poverty of fiolcheretsk. He said, at the same time, that the reason of their npt having received the black cattle which they had requested to be sent down, was, that the heavy rains at Verchnei had actually pre- vented their setting out. So much politeness and generosity demanded the best answer our officers were capable of making, and, he was, the next day, saluted with eleven guns on coming on-board the Resolution ; samples and specimens of curiosities were then presented to him, to which Captain Gore added a gold watch and a fowling-piece. He was entertained on board the Discovery the next day, and on the 26th he returned to Bolcheretsk. No entreaties could prevail on him to extend his visit, having some expectations that the sub-govemor-general would arrive in the sloop which he expected from Okotsk, as he was then on a tour through all the provinces of the governor-general of Jak- utsk. Without any application from Captain Gore, he re-in- stated the sergeant in his command, before his departure, having resolved to take the Put-parouchick with him. He was mvch oflfended with him for punishing the sergeant, as there did not appear to be the slightest grounds for infficting such chasr tisement. Encouraged by the captain's great readiness to oblige, the officers ventured to request a small favour for another in- habitant of Kamtschatka. It was to requite an honest old sol- dier, who kept a kind of an open house for the inferior officers, both for them and the whole crew. The captain obligingljf complied with their wishes, and dubbed him instantly a cor- poral ; telling him at the same time, to thank the English officeilp for his very great promotion. It may not here be unnecessary to remark, that the lowei class of officers in the Russian army have a greater pre-eminence above the private men than those in the Bntish service can pos- sibly conceive. li; was, indeed, a matter of astonishment to them, to see a sergeant assume all the state, and exact as much homage from those beneath him, as though he had been a held- officer. Besides, there are several gradations of rank amonj^st them, of which other countries are vmolly ignorant, there bemg SfiiO cook's third voyage. 1776^ — 1780. no less than four intermediate steps between a sergeant and private soldier; and many considerable advantages may pro- bably arise from this system. Subordinate ranks in the sea- service are known to produce the most salutary effects^ by creating emulation^ and officers of superior rank are thereby enabled to bestow an adequate reward on almost every possible degree of merit. The discipline of the Russian army^ though so extremelv remote from the seat of government^ is remarkable for its strict- ness and severity, not exempting even the commissioned officers. Imprisonment and bread and water diet, is the punishment of the latter for inconsiderable offences. A good fnend who was an ensign in this place, informed our officers, that the punish- ment he received for having been concerned in a drunken frolic, was three months' imprisonment in the black-hole, with bread and water only for his subsistence ; which so affected his whole nervous system, that he has never since eiyoyed a sufficient flow of spirits to qualify him for a convivial meeting. Captain King attended Captain Shmaleff as far as the entrance of Awatska river, and having taken leave of him, embraced that opportunity of visiting the priest of Paratounca. He attended him to church on the 26th, when his whole congregation consisted of his own family, three men, and the same number of boys, who assisted in the singing, and the whole of the service wsui performed with great solemnity and devotion. Though the church is built of wood, it is much superior to any building either in this town, or in that of St. Peter and St. Paul Among the several paintings with which it is ornamented, are two pictures of St. Peter and St. Paul, which were presented by Behring, and which might vie with the first European per- formances in the intrinsic riches of its drapery, the principal parts of it being composed of thick plates of solid silver, so fastened as to imitate the foldings of the robes which decorate the figures, and fixed upon the canvass. Another hunting party was set on foot the next day, when Captain King submitted himself to the direction of the parish- clerk, who had acquired great reputation as a bear hunter. About sun-set they arrived at one of the larger lakes, where it was deemed necessary to conceal themselves as much as pos- sible : this was easily effected among some long grass and brush wood, of which there was great plenty near the water]s edge. They had not been long in this situation, before their ears were agreeably saluted with the growling of bears, in almost every quarter round about them ; and they soon had the pleasure of beholding one of them in the water, swimming in a direct course to where they lay concealed. At this time the moon shone, so as to afford a considerable light ; and, as the animal advanced towards them, three fired at it, almost at the same instant. Immediately the beast turned short upon one side ; and cook's third voyaoe, 1776 — 1780. 681 Mi up a most horrible noise^ which was neither yelling, growling, nor roaring, but a very extraordinary mixture of the whole three. It could easily be perceived that the animal was severely wounded, and that it reached the bank with difficulty ; whence it retreated to some thick bushes not far distant, still continuing to make a dreadful noise. The Kamtschadales supposed it to be mortally wounded, and that it could praceed no further, judged it an act of imprudence to attempt to rouse it again immediately. It was then after nine o'clock, and as the night became overcast, and a change of weather was to be appre- hended, they thought it advisable to return home, and wait till morning for the gratification of th,;ir curiosity ; when they accordingly repaired to the spot, and found the bear dead from the wounds it had received. It was a female, and larger than the ordinary size. In hunting the natives generally conttive to reach the ground frequented by the bears, about sun-set. Their first business, when they arrive there, is to look out for their tracks, and to attend particularly to the freshest of them; always paying a regard to the situation with respect to concealment, and taking aim at the animal as it passes by, or as it advances or goes from them. These tracks are numerous between the woods and the lakes, and are often found among the long sedgy grass and brakes on the margin of the water. Having determined upon a convenient spot for concealment, the hunters fix their crutches on the ground, in which they rest their firelocks, pointing them in a propfer direction. They afterwards kneel or lie d"wn, as the circumstances of their situation may require; and having their bear-spears in readiness by their side, wait the arrival of their game. These precautions are extremely necessary, on many accounts, that the hunters may make sure of their mark ; for the price of ammunition is so high at Kamtschatka, that the value of a bear will not purchase more of it than will load a musket four or five times. It is much more material, on another consideration, for, if the first shot should not render the animal incapable of pur- suit, fatal consequen"es too frequently ensue. The enraged beast makes immediately tovvards the place from whence the sound and smoke issue, and furiously attacks his adversaries. They have not sufficient time to reload their pieces, as the bear is seldom fired at till he comes within the distance of fifteen yards ; therefore, if he should not happen to fail, they immedi- ately prf pare to receive him on their spears, their safety depending, in a great measure, on their giving him a mortal stab as he advances towards them. Should he parry the thrust, (which thesa animals are sometimes enabled to do by the strength and agility of their paws) and break in upon his opponents, the conflict becomes dreadful, and it is seldom that the loss of a single life will satisfy the beast's revenge. 2D2 26 583 COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE, 1776—1780. The bnsitiess or diversion of bear-hnnting^ is particulaTly dan. fferous at two seasons of the year ; in the spring, when they fiwt Issue from their caves, after havin;^ subsisted the whole winter (as it is here positively asserted) solely on sucking their paws ; and especially if the frost should contmue to be severe, and the ice in the lakes is not broken up, as they cannot then have recourse to their customary and expected food. Thus becoming exceedingly famished, tiiey grow fierce and savage in proportion, pursuing the mhabitants by the scent, and prowling about at a distance from their usual tracks, dart upon them unawares. Under these circumstances, as the natives have no idea ol" shooting flying, or even running, or in any manner without resting their piece, they often fall a sacrifice to their rapacity. Hie nme of their copulation is the other dangerous season to meet with them, and that is usually about this time of the year. The Kamtschadales never presume to fire at a young bear if the dam is upon the spot ; for, if the cub should happen to be killed, she becomes enraged to an immoderate degree, and if she can only ain sight of the offender, slie is sure to be revenged of him, or die in the attempt. On the other hand, il' the mother should be shot, the cub continues by her side after she has been a long time dead, exhibiting by the most affecting gestures and motions, the most poignant affliction. The hunters, instead of commiserating their distresses, embrace iheae oppor- tunities of destroying them. If the veracity of the Kamtscha- dales is to be depended on, the sagacity of the bears is as extra- ortKnary as their natural affection. Innumerable are the stories which they relate in proof of this One remarkable instance, however, we cannot avoid mention- ing, as it is admitted among the natives as a well-attested fact. It is the stratagem they put in practice to catch the bareins, which run too swift for them to expect success in pursuing them. These animals herd together in great numbers, and their usual haunts are low grounds, at the feet of rocks and precipices, where they delight in browsing. The bear pursues them by tlie scent ^\\ he obtains a view of them, and then advances warily keeping in a situation above them ; at the same time concealing himself among the rocks as he approaches, till he is almost immediately over them, and near enough to carry his purpose into execution. Then, with his paws, he pushes down large pieces of rock amongst the herd below. If he perceives he has succeeded in maiming any of the flock, he immediately pursues them, and according to the injury the poor bareins have received, he either proves successful in overtaking them, or they escape by the rapidity of theur flight. The Kamtschadales acknowledge infinite obligations to the bears, for all the little progress they have hitherto made, as well in the sciences as the polite arts. Thev confess themselves in- debted wholly to these animals for all their knowledge in physic cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1T80. 583 and surgery; as by observing what herbs they have applied to the wounds they have received, and what methods they have pursued when they were languid and out of order, they have acquired a knowledge of most of the simples wluch they have now recourse to, either as external or internal appUcations. But, the most singular circumstance of all is, that they admit the bears to be thiir dancing-masters ; though the evidence of uur oiHcers' own senses places this matter beyond all dispute, for in the bear dance of the Kamstchadales, every gesture and attitude peciUiar , to that animal vfHF faitlifully exhibited. All their other dances are similar to this in many particulars, and those attitudes are thought to come the nearest to perfectiqp which most resemble the motions of the bear. . . f , ! On the asth of September, Captain King returned to the ships, not a little pleased with his excursion, as it gave him an ofxportunity of seeing a part of the country, and of observing the actions of the Kamtschadales when they were under no restraint, which evidentljr was not the case when they were in the company of the Russians. Nothing worth mentioning occurred till the 30th, when Captain Gore went to Paratounca, in order to have an escutcheon put up ill the church, which had been prepared by Mr. Webber. It had an inscription on it, mentioning Captain Clerke*s age and rank, and the nature of the expedition which he commanded at the time of his decease. To the ,tree, under which he was interred, a board was affixed with a similar inscription on it. Captain Gore, before his departure, ordered Captain King to get the ships out of the harbour, that they might be in readiness tu sail. This, however, was preventea by a violent gale of wind on the 1st of October, which continued the whole day ; but, on the 2nd, both the vessels warped out of the harbour, and anchored in seven fathoms' water, about a quarter of a mile from the ostrog. The day before they quitted the harbour, the cattle from Verchnei arrived ; and that the men might have the enjoyment of this seasonable supply, by eathig it while it was fresh. Captain Gore determined to stay in the same station five or six days longer. This time was far from being misapplied, for the pumps, sails, and rigging of each ship received an additional repair. Captain King, having obtained permission to use the copper belonging to the Resolution, and being supplied with molasses by Captain Gore, was enabled to brew a suflicient quantity of beer to last the crew a fortnight, and to make ten additional puncheons of strong spruce essence. This supply was the more acceptable, as the last cask of spirits was now serving out, except a small quantity reserved for cases of emergency. As the 3rd day of October was the name-day of the Empress ol Russia, our officers were perfectly inclined to shew it every possible respect, and the priest of Paratounca, Ivaskin, and I ;h 684 cook's third voyage, 1776—1780 the w^rgetjot, were invited to dine with them, and an entertain- ment was prepared for the two Toiuns of Paratounca, and St. pQter and St. Paul, as well as for the inferior officers of the garrison, and the most respectable of the KamtschadaJe inhabit- ants. All the other natives were invited to partake in common with the ships' con^anies ; a pound of excellent }>eef being served out to every man, and the • remainder of their spirits were made into grog, and distributed amongst them. Twenty- one guns were fired upon the occasion. On the 6th of October, the ships received a fresh supply of tea, sugar, and tobacco, from Bolcheretsk. Captain Shmalefl' having met this present on his return, he sent a letter with it, stating, that the sloop from Okotsk bad arrived in his absence, and that Madame Shmaleff had instantly dispatclted a courier with these few presents, requesting their acceptance of them. On the 8th of October, they sailed towards the mouth of the bay, and all the boats were hoisted in ; but their progress was stopped by the wind veering to the south, which obliged them to drop anchor, the ostroff bearing north, at the distance of half a league. The wind blowing from the same quarter, and the weather being foggy all the forenoon on the 9th, they continued in their station. At four in the afternoon of the same day, they again un- moored ; but whilst raising the last anchor, they were informed that the drummer of marines had fled from the boat, which had Just left the village, and tliat he had lately been seen with a Kamtschadale womoni, to whom he was known to have been much attached, and who had frequently importuned him to stay behind, . This nian was entirely useless having been rendered lame by a swelling in his knee; and on that very account, Captain King was the more unwilling to leave him behind, lest he. should become a miserable burthen to himself, as well as to the Russians. He tiierefore applied to the sergeant to send parties of bis men in pursuit of him ; and in the mean time, the siulors visited, a well known haunt of liis in the neighbour- hood,, where the drummer and his woman were found together. On the recovery of the deserter, the Discovery weighed anchor, and immediately followed) the Resolution. Awatskfl,: Bs\.y is perhaps the safest, and most extensive har- bour, that has ever been discovered, and the only one, in this p^rt^ofthe worlds that can ftdmit vessels of considerable bur- then. The term bav, properly speaking, is rather inapplicable to a place so completely sheltered as Awatska ; but when it is considered how loose and va^ue some navigators have been, in their denominations of certain situations of sea and land, as harbours, bays, roads, sounds, &c. we are not sufficiently war- ranted to exchange a popular name for one that may perhaps seem more consistent with propriety. The entrance into Awatska Bay is in the latitude of 63 cle^> cook's third voyage, 1776—1780. 586 51 min. north, niid the Innp^itude of 158 dep. 48 niiti. east. It lies irt the bight of another exterior bay, formed by Cape Gftva- reea to the south, and Cheepoonskoi Noss to the north. The latter of these head-lands bears from the former north-east-by- north, and is thirtj'-two leagues distant. From Cape (Javareea to the entrance of Awatska Bay, the coast takes a nortnerly direction, and extends about eleven leagues. It consists o'' a chain of ragg<;d cliflFs and rocks, and in many parts, presents an appear- ance of bays or inlets ; but, on a nearer view, low ground was seen that connected the head-lands. Prom the entrance of Awatska Bay, Cheepoonskoi Noss bears east-north-east, distant seventeen leagues. The shore, on this side, is flat and low, with hills behind, gradually rising t' a consi- derable height. The latitude of Cape Oavareea is 52 deg. 21 min. This remarkable difference of the land on the sides of Awatska Bay, together with their different V>earings, are very proper guides to steer for it, in coming from the southward ; and when it is approached from the northward, Cheepoonskoi Noss becomes very conspicuous, it being a high projecting head-land, and is united to the continent by a large extent of level ground, lower than the Noss. Whether viewed from the north or south, it presents the same appearance. " We have been rather particular in describing this coast, having experienced the want of such a description ; for if we had possessed a tolerable good account of the form cf the coast on both sides of Awatska Bay, we should, \:\\en we first visited it, have arrived there two days sooner ttian we did, and con- sequently have avoided part of the tempestuous weather, which we experienced in plying off the mouth of the harbour. Be- sides, from the prevalence of the fogs in those seas, it must often happen that an observation for ascertaining the latitude cannot be taken. It should also be considered, that land makes a very deceptive appearance when covered with snow, of when viewed through a hazy atmosphere, both which circnmstanoeis prevail here for a considerable part of the year, and renders :t necessary for eveiy mariner to be acquainted with as many dis- criminate objects as possible. " If the weather should happen to be stiflficiently clear to admit a vi^w of the mountains, both on the coast and its neigh- bourhood, the situation of Awatska Bay may be precisely known. For to the south of it are two high mountains ; that nearest the bay in in the form of a sugar-loaf; the other, which is more miand, is flat at the top, and not quite so high. There are three very conspicuous mountains to the north of the bay ; that fur- thest to the west appears to be the highest ; the next, which is a volcano mountain, may readily be known by the smoke issuing from its top. The third is the more northerly, and mighty with some propriety, be called a cluster of mountains, as it presents several flat tops to our view. i *'. \ ' I ' 586 cook's third voyage, 17/6 — 1780. air " Wlien we get within the capeo, and into the outward bay, a light-house on a perpendicular head-land will point out the entrance into the bay of Awatska to the north. Many sunken vocks lie to the eastward oi" this head-land stretching two or three miles into the sea, and which, with a moderate sea or swell, will always shew themselves. A small round island lies four miles to the south of the entrance, principally composed of high pointed rocks, one of which is strikingly remarkable as being larger and more perpendicular than the rest. " The entrance into the bay is, at first, about three miles wide, and one mile and a half in the narrowest part ; the length itt four miles, in a north-north-west direction. A. noble basin of about twenty-five miles in circumference lies within the mouth ; in which are the harbours of Rakoweena, to the east, Tarcinska, to the west, and St. Peter and St. Paul to the north. " The breadth of Tarcinska harbour is three miles, and the length about twelve. A narrow neck of land separates it from the sea at the bottom, and it stretches to the east-south-east. As far as we surveyed, we never found less than seven fathoms' water, but the ice hindered us from getting to the bottom of the harbour. ^ *' The entrance of the harbour of Rakoweena is impeded by a shoal in the middle of the channel, which, in general, makes it necessary to warp in, unless there should happen to be a leading wind. Were it not for this circumstance, this harbour would be preferable to the other two. Its breadth is from one mile to half a mile, and its length three miles, running in a south-east and easterly direction. It is from thirteen to three fathoms in depth. *' One of tne most convenient little harbours ever seen, is St. Peter and St. Paul. Half-a-dozen ships may be commodiously moored in it, head and astern : and it is, in every respect, con- venient for giving them any kind of repairs. The south side of this harbour is formed by a low, narrow, sandy neck, on which the ostrog is built. The mid-channel is only two hundred and seventy feet across, in which there is six fathoms and a half water ; the deepest water within is seven fathoms, and all over a raudvly bottom. Some inconvenience was, however, occasioned by the roughness of the ground, whicii often broke the messen- ger, and made it troublesome to get the anchors u-j. At the head of this harbour there is a watering place. " There is a shoal lying off the eastern harbour, and a spit within the entrance, stretching from the south-west shore, having only three fathoms' water over it. To steer clear of the latter, a small island, or rather a large detached rock, on the west shore of the entrance, must be shut in with the land to the south of it. In order to steer clear of the former, tlie tluec needle rocks, near the light-house head, on the east shore of the entrance, must be kept open with the ht ad-lands to the nortlnvard kM ,' Af^o .M '. nning in a n to three .•,i : oimI. I I.. ..Il r }m. •!! ••-) .ii-Jii'.'.i •11»i {ihi'l -IH' nM'ji! yntu^-, :.f!tl li .'fyj, . >./ ^)iii :.'miii«, I'mIIo /i»h oi.;i . !i'»m»',)i )> "I ^^^- J)'«t(-'ni u >>,'^ i iiif,!>! s > '!' ••i-<»iii fiiidl 'l.iioi i-'.I li'tiiiv* i)t .li Of II (I ■*((((;(( 'iMiii t iiiuj , t\ I'l.'-jiii . l/ii iiii * i »ll» iHi'i !>■,■(:>. i)(| .11 iluui lijn . I j.uOnt:.!. •,,( t)iiM*j lu i'.ji|\, .flnti /(•>/ h vi y.ilnl -I (^ ,u ;ii'^*I nf t'lu't Jni: ;ljt] lit riJoi .!•'•, »viin.; .- / ■ ■! ■•'■m i; ,)i Ujiwv jf.|.'u1..) i'i'us/«j.. Sl» 'Mi. '■ ;. }j lUM ."KJr-ai liil r i Uil'-Uir; (. ) .//'xiJl in!>j . »l(.- li) , nitj .ll fiyiijii ;{ • fi'^ -s j. ■;•■■• 'l-i.ttiiv )? j! •■ rt.i i 'uiuii// Ju; kI-h. ;; ili.(>. -i! I.' ^-i'luTq fi-\u\'\\UK i: .>■■.: .fi i •, tu»). i,\ .tiJI. 'iyl'l . ' >.{)■(. |>; '? ' .i ,l';t>l( iM Hi (ti b'nii*}M .i '•// Hi t ;i-.'t -o' .J.!rUjfi ( />, I ■ ' ilii /|i»'i) li ,ui> )l :>>l^li' • i .1 ti ! ■. . ' .-litjl . M.-V/ ,; I ,1 1 M'»>v li 'iH>/ , tiui' o/f'i -i ) (IJ. 1 I- . M rjU ij.iU-. yt . t ilii) l)r- >y 'it m villi / HI t 1 ■ I .,., i ii 0!J' I . '■ ii-J • >•!■ U'> /Ium; Ji (1,. I • >ii»>,l wi,iii.i*oj-j. •'i)i..-i!( wi <»!./. ,1 i.'Utj j'ii'v 1 ylllliii'i i-i!ij '.ill > ?rii;' ' M -ll- i.'iq lililiiUtif. e.ii lr,,i,i; i.. *\ S\l■t^ •(•. /iiiUiiiJ'l^ c •• .-• .Olii> l./ . / * ■i.i.( ;; . - . ii«i( Vil ii Jl ^/ <) uJ ; I, i^kI'i I HI tiojl / 1>> i/:>ii 'It "„ •' . t. M»/i. ^myi II. j. 4l»>l rll tM^J . '' . !• • I 111 , / . i M' !t M 'J,/, r>(| I i/i- /.Hi I .1 :l!llt it Mil ho •Ml-- A'ti'\ I "M( ')• '. .'. ■'),.' ll ..; (|iii<|i' ,! '-.>/ii't ■»ii<i' '. • '(■■' .i ujj 1 .i.i "bl*/// llill lilU. ./Iji' >i dhilii I , , ' ., JVi-ai ...ll.-.iWt 1 .. i. ,. I. ., , (J > Uif.,^)i i: I r MKJ .•■t»..H It Hi ^'U/fill «!il /(l !• ' .>( J.nil . < „i !' n'.ilr.Dlf)*. lU»>i,i> K* •« ff U »il // .11 i. •,■ .r ui ill ,,ti i;: _" nil i>i(ll>l > (.tint ifiH >I|J }.||t. . / till I . , .U »• » M.'l. I ', .^ i' n>!<;!ll St l:i • rii ur, hi." it>Ji // ^lit li(i) ^ ' • ' mI I !i !•■ <*' 1 •• Viui 111. .ri'.l I li. N.iH ...i; 11..-^ . ,; ■'ill I i'., • ! I '. ^ !><,.!( ■ )i ; ^ 1 1 -1 1 1 ;, . . . » /. , , ■ .. ,i. ll .1^1.//'. ' , ...jl I - ;, - ,, .■../., .' . I • ., ' :'> I 11 ./,.(;.. .■ ■ i;i, . -l, t , ., . . ,. I •> (<.l ,U <1 ' ' ji ll I I , l|. . I 1 i . . r. I, . , ' f.l li, I' u; ' ' >•■ I ■ I. • cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. 587 of t\\^ first smr.ll bending on the east side of the entrance. In entering the harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul, and approaching the village, it is very necessfiry to keep near the eastern shore, to avoid a spit which stretches from the head-land to the south west of the ostrog." The time-k.eei)er on-board the Resolution, which was exactly copied from Mr. Harrison's by Mr. Kendal, stopped on the :27th of April, a few days before their first arrival in Awatska Bay. During the voyage, it had always been carefully attended to, not having been trusted, even for a moment, into any other hands than those of Captain Cook and Captain King. No accident, therefore, could have happened to it, to which its stopping could be attributed; nor could it proceed from the operations of intense cold, the thermometer being but very little below the freezing point. When the failure of the time-piece was first discovered, the Captains Clerke and King consulted what measures they should pursue : and resolved to submit it to the inspection of a seaman on-board, who had been regularly bred a watchmaker in Lon- don, and w ho had given many satisfactory proofs of his skill in that prolession, in repairing seve "al watches upon the voyage. On the first clear day after arriving in Awatska Bay, the time-piece was opened in the presence of Captain Clerke and Captain King. No part of the watch appeared to be broken * but, as the watchmaker was not able to meJce it go, he took off the cock and balance, and cleaned the pivot-holes, which were extremely foul. The other parts of the work were also dirty. He then took off the dial-plate, and found a piece of dirt be- tween two teeth of the wheel which carries the second-hand, and attributed its stopping principally to this cause. After putting the work together, and oiling it very sparingly, the watch seemed to go with freedom and regularity. Captain King having orders to go the next day to Bolcheretsk, the time-keeper was left with Mr. Bayly, in order to get its rate by comparing it with his watch and clocks who informed him, on his return, that it had gone very regularly for some days, never losing more than seventeen seconds a day, and afterwards stopped again. Upon its being a second time opened, its stop- ping seemed to be occasioned by its having been badly put together on the first opening of it. When it was again adjusted it gained above a minute a day, and the watchmaker broK.e the balance-spring in attempting to alter that and the regulator. He then made a new spring, but the watch wen* so irregularly afterwards, that they could make no further use of it. The h'.nest fellow was as much chagrined as the officers were at this ill success, which all were convinced was not so much owing to his v\ant of skill as to the miserable tools he had to work with, and the stiffness his hands had <'ontracted from his occupation as a sjeanian. 2D5 ' I, ilf" L i 4' iflv; >l 5b8 COOF.'S THIRD VOYAGE, 1776—1780. At the fall aid change of the moon, it was high-\vater at thirty- six minutes after four; and five feet eight inches was the greatest rise. The tides were regular every twelve hours. The peninsula of Kamtschatka is situated on the eastern coast of Asia, and extends from 52 deg. to 61 deg. north latitude ; the longitude of its extremity to the south being 146 «leg. 45 min. east. The isthmus, joining it to the continent on the north, lies between the gulfs of Olutorsk and Penshinsk. Its extremity to the south, is Cape Lopatka ; so called from its resembling the blade-bone of a man, which is the signification of that word. The whole peninsula is somewhat in the form of a shoe ; and its greatest breadth is two hundred and thirty-six computed miles, being from the mouth of the river Tigil to that of the river Kamtschatka; towards each extremity it gradually becomes narrower. On the north it is bounded by the country of the Koriaks ; by the north Pacific Ocean to the south and east ; and by the sea of Okotsk to the west. A chain of high mountains, from north to south, extend the whole length of the peninsula, and almost equally divide it ; whence several rivers take their rise, and make their course into the Pacific Ocean, and the sea of Okotsk. The three principal rivers are the Bolchoireka, or great river , the river Kamtschatka ; and the river Awatska. The first dis- charges itself into the sea of Okotsk, and is navigable for the Russian galliots five leagues from its mouth, or within three leagues of Bolcheretsk, which is situated at the conflux of the two rivers Goltsoflka and the Bistraia, which are here lost in tlie Bolchoireka. The source of the Bistraia, which is no inconsider- able river, is derived from the same ibuntain as the river Kamts- chatka, but takes a quite contrary course ; by which means the Kamtschadales are enabled to transport their goods by water, almost across the peninsula. The river Kamtschatka continues about three hundred miles in the direction of south to north , and after winding round to the eastward, is received by the ocean a little to the southward of Kamtschatkoi Noss. To the north-w^st of the mouth of Kamtschatka, lies the great lake Ne 'tsch from nerpi, a seal, that lake abounding with thos3 ani.uals. A fort, called Nishnei Kamtschatka ostrog, is situated about twenty miles up the river, where an hospital and barracks have been built by the Russians; and this place, we understood, is now be- come the principal mart of the country. The source of the Awatska river is from the mountains between the Bolchoireka and the Bistraia. After running two hundred miles from north-west to south-east, it falls into Awatska Bay. The Tigil is likewise a considerable river ; it rises amidst some high mountains, parallel with Kamtschatskoi Noss, and empties itself into the sea of Okotsk. The other rivers of this peninsula, I high-water eight inches 3 very twelve eastern coast latitude; the deg. 45 min. le north, lies [ts extremity I resembling of that word, hoe ; and its puted miles^ of the river lly becomes the Koriaks ; ; and by the intains, from ininsiila, and :e their rise, d the sea of great river, ^he first dis- jable for the ivithin three IX of the two lost in tlie > inconsider- iver Kamts- means the s by water, a continues north, and le ocean a north-w^st 'tsch from »s. A fort, )ut twenty Ihave been 1 is now be- is between hundred itska Bay. lidst some |d empties )eniusala, I l>.:!. -Mw.l •„, <..n,|i fi-,fn,Mt»;,,-M 1H v.H.v.'jurfo-,,,,, hall •, ; rnhr. n,„iu .iUI-./. .,. .,:,.•.,.,(! ^mH hnr. atfi,f,Mf,.H/< >,f| Jn-J . ^>^.->i •- >iH.n- k, li,^nHv,n nit ir -; • ■' no ;:m(n(MrP fir- .. , ,. .,^, ^, ..„rV. .,,(,7,, ,, .|. .,v,, ^^,.; ^^^^ •;;..,'.;•'" "''^^ •"' 'HMuMT'..,/'. (in)*... ,:-i !,<„,. „. ^,,^,„ : ■■ ■;- '''" i'^Mjih.} ..,11 M'Uu,^ uv.. vuU^m {,■,1..: "^" r "^^';'' '"■' '^.'J I..nilu|-w.,. ,/,..,.,.,,... '..J^,j,.M _ < ;-«>H.i -M t ,„„„ hrrM^M ot t..,.^ -.d /pu< . r,/,M,=^ .SsrhM. - • r :.^,{ ,^;„ ^,|r <,t h, r.rHf>K -nr, ..,, .„. ,„ .....nH . >/r '•t- aniritdjijl ,,-,(, ^jiiautij rM :'..|!( •O ■ •(. :/ '.tT''! n i;m ' »- I ' ! !- ■yf^'Tt tj .,,• tfir. i« '" It. /-Ml h(fn.r»dnVdMA/ f, ;!,{ I ' ' ■ ♦ • '\\y.i[ nil ..• ,'. ^Y• ><:-.< 'f f. ' ''f ■ ».-• 1, .(It ,,., ,(), I \ i. (1 ' '" '•'l>,Hf,l.{f 1/ whicl men! Ifl app< everi mos( banl part^ strei that I of a and ■•' ' 'tK ff .,,', '' »ni.fti; ,, • '.ft '(A If •*' ■ ' ^IK ..•;.(, ''• ''••ffl -f i/ , >fi-»'»X • r>,M, ^;/> If.) -.'.n. ;'^ 'Ir -Im.,'^ '"■• li!,:i (-,■•»■' {fifl;) d ■'>• njiv ,-, ■», ^> ^nf.j't >.., .'■■i»»'t'.,i{v ; .,, * ■ fnii j... *'•''■(, r.h/J ■ B . ?M,il,'. ^' ••'f/^>;,, ■> Mf' ,J;*:W •'' lfh>u f' ffi tf),i,- <^: .IM. , '• .ll:;(; - i nUw ■■"V-> h.. j 7fiJ (, : '.l/s'f u i'M h!i ■ V'.J • ■>'.rh;f:; Hli '' ■SiUi tit ■ r Vl:.j..' •W'i' Jkkv , . l«.f>, •» -ff '1l(!l r-nfl «?//!,./» ir ■ cook's third voyage, 1776—1780. K89 which are very numerous, are too inconsiderable to be particularly mentioned. If we mav judge of its soil from iis vegetable productions, it appears to be barren in the extreme. It must be admitted, hov/- ever, that our officers suw at Paratounca three or four stacks of most excellent hay ; and Major Behm assured them, that the banks of the Kamtschatka and the Bistraia, as well as many other parts of the peninsula, produce a quantity of grass of great strength and height, which is mowed twice in every summer; and that the hay is particularly adapted to the fattening of cattle, being of a very succulent quality. It appeared, indeed, from the size and fatness of the thirty-six which they received from the Vech- nei ostrog, that they must have had the advantage of good grass and hajr ; for when they were first supplied with the first twenty, it was just the close of the winter, the snow still remaining on the ground ; and probably they had fed only on hay for the seven preceding months. This agrees with KrascheninicoflTs account, who relates, that the country which borders on the river Kamts- chatka is much superior, in point of fertility, to that of either the north or south. Repeated experiments, he says, have been made in different quarters near this river in the culture of barley, rye, and oats, which seldom failed of success ; and he supposes, that wheat would grow in many parts, especially near the source of the Bistraia and Kamtschatka, as well as in most countries situated in the same latitude. The fertility of this part of the country may, perhaps, be occasioned by its lying in the widest part of the peninsula, and consequently at the farthest distance from the sea on each side ; as chilhng fogs and drizzling weather generally prevail along the coast, and cannot fail to render the parts adjacentincapaWe of improvement by agriculture. In computing the seasons here, spring should certainly be omitted. Summer may be said to extend from the middle of June till the middle of September ; October may be considered as autumn ; from which period till the middle of June, it is all dreary winter. The climate in the country adjacent to the river Kamtschatka, is said to be as serene and temperate as in many parts of Siberia under the same latitude. This, probably, originates from the same causes, to which the fertility of the soil in that part of the country has been already attributed. There was neither thunder nor lightning during the stay at Kamtschatka, excepting the night of the eruption of the volcano ; and our men were told by the inhabitants, that they were not often troubled with either, and never but in a slight degree. The severity of winter, and the dreadful hurricanes of wind and snow which attend it, oblige the natives to retire to their subter- raneous habitations, both for their security and warmth. They were informed by ]VI»»Jor Behm, that the inclemency of the winter of 1779 was so great, that all intercourse was stopped between ( w ■■ I (;■,'■ M ; mi i, ' 1 690 OOQK'S THHID VOYAGE, 1776 — 1780. i: the iphabitji^ato for several weeks ; no one daring to stir froni one habitation to another, so fearful were they of being frost-bitten. The extreme rigour of the climate, in so lov»r a latitude, may be s^ttributed to its being situate to the east of an immense uncnlti- vated country, and to the prevalence of the westerly winds over sp extensive find cold a continent. The impetuosity of the winds may be attributed to the subterraneous fires and sulpliureous exhalations. i\ Volcanoes are numerous in this peninsula; only three of which ave lately been subject to eruptions. That in the neighbour- hood of Awatska they mentioned ; and there are others equally remarkable according to KrascheninicofF. The volcano of Tolbatchick is situate between the river Kamts-- cliatka and Tolbatchick, on a neck of land. The eruptions pro- ceed from tJie summit of a high mountain, which terminates in pointed rocks. A whirlwind of flames issued from it in the be- ginning of 1739, which reduced the forests of the neighbouring mountains to ashes. A cloud of smoke succeeded tliis, which spread darkness over the whole country, but was dissipated by a shower of cinders, which covered the earth to the extent of thirty miles. KrascheninicoiOr, who was then travelling from Bolchoireka to the Kamtsch^tka ostrog, and not far from tne mountain, says, the eruption was preceded by an alarming sound in the woods, wliich, he thought, portended some dreadful storm or hurricane ; till three successive shocks of an earthquake, with onl} a minute's interval between each, fully convinced him of its real cause ; but that he was hindered, by the falling of the cinders, from approach- ing nearer the mountain^ or from proceeding on his journey. On the top of thp n^ountain of Kamtschatka, supposed to be by far the highest in the peninsula, is the third volcano. A thick smoke inpess^u^Uy asOends from its sununit, and it often has eruptions of the most dreadful kind ; some of which were fresh in tlie memories of the natives, and were frequently spokeii of. • Springs of hot w^ter are said to abound in this country. They only saw that at Nateheekin ostrog, which has already bfeen des- cribed. Several Qthers,9jre mentioned by Krascheninicoft^ who also takes notice qf two pits or wells, at the bottom of which the water boilajAvithgr^^t impietuosity ; a dreadful noise issuing from them at the s«nie,tinie, and so thick a vapour, that objects cannot be discerned thtough it. , Aii. ig the pfiucipp) , trees which fell under notice, are the birch, I popla,i^> the. {jUljer, several species of the willow, and two sorts of dw.^rlish cedars. > One of these sorts grows upon the coast, seldom exceediug twoieet in height, and creeping upon the ground. Of this the esjsence for beer was made, and proved to be proper for tbe purpose : the other, which grows much higher, is found on the mountains, and bears a kind of nut or apple." The old Toioii at St. Peter and St. Paul informed them, that when Behring lay in that harbour^ he taugiit tlicm the use of cook's third VOYAfJE, 1776 — 17li0. m tbe 4ecoction of these cedars; which proved an admh'ableifemqdy fpr the scurvy ; but either from the scarcity of stigar, or k6xii£i other cause, it ia no lonj^er used amongst them. / Uf the birch which appears to be the most common tr^e, thlt^y remarked tiiree sorts. Two of them were large, and fit ft)i* tiitlbiE^r,, and differed from eadi other only in (he C(d(uir and'textnft'irt'th'^ bark,, ITie third ia of adwarhsh kind. The natives ftpjily Ihi^i tree to a variety of uses. When tapped, it yields a Hrjvdl'.'fri great abundance, which they drink without mixture, or any kind of prfiparatioa, as they frequently observed in their jourrt^y' t(V Bolqheret&k. Thev drank some of it themselves, and found it! pleasant and refreshing, though somewhat purging. They con- vert the bark into vessels for their domestic purposes ; and fVom the wopd of this tree, are made their sledges and canoes. Not only th^ birch, but every other kind of tree in the neighbourhood of t|ie bay were stunted, and very small ; the natives are there- fore, ^l^liged to go a considerable distance up the country to get w;op4 of a proper size for their canoes, their balagans, and many oth^r; purposes. ..jt ; yu ;- )n^i!'i iCwscheniuicoff also mentions tbe larch, a tree which grows onl^ on tlie banks of the river Kaintschatka, and those which it receives. He also says> there are tirs near the river Berszowa, Likewise the service tree, and two species of the white thorn. *" \\^^ peninsula produces great obundance of the shrub kind, as mouutain-ash, junipers, raspberry bushes, and wild rose trees. Also a variety of berries, as partridge-berries, blue-berries, " blacl^-berries, cran-bcrries, and crow-berries. These ^re gathered at proper seasons, and preserved by mashing thetti into a thick jam. They constitute a considerable part of their vv inter provisions serving as a general sauce to their dried fish. They also eat them in puddings, and in various other modes, and make decoc- tions of them for their common beverage. Thciy found great quantities of wholesome vegetables, in a. wild , state, such as chervil, garlic, onions, angelic, and wild celery. They also met with some excellent turnips, and tumip- radisnes, upon a few spots of ground in the vallies. ' This account of vegetables, only relates to such parts of thi; ; country as fell within observation : near the rivfer Kamtschatkay'' where both the soil and climate is the best in the peninsula, gar- den culture is attended to, and perhaps with success ; for with the second drove of cattle which they received from Verchnei, they also received a present of cucunbirs, celery, some very large turnips, and other garden vegetables. Two plants are produced in this peninsula which deserve pair- ticular attention. I'he first is called sarana by the natives, and Lilium Kamtukatiensejiore airo rubente, by botanists. ITie stem grows to the height of about five inches, and is not larger than that of a tulip ; towards the bottom it is of a purple colour, and green higher up. Two tier of leaves is^sue from it, of an oval i IN 111' I I' % I IS ■ 'I f:,L S92 cook's third voyage, 1776—1780. figure, the lower consisting of three leaves and the uppermost of four. A single flower, of a dark red colour, which resembles that of the narcissus in shape, grows from the top of the stalk. It has a bulbous roof, like that of garlic, and, like that, has several cloves hanging together. The plant grows wild, and in great quantities : about the beginning of August many women are employed in collecting the roots, which, alter being dried in the sun, are preserved for use. It is a maxim with the Kamts- chadales, that Providence never deserts them, for the seasons that are prejudicial to the sarana are always favourable for fish- ing ; and, on the contrary, an unsuccessful fishing month is always amply compensated by an exuberant sarana harvest. This article is variously employed in cookery. When roasted in embers, it is a better substitute for bread than any thing the country produces. When baked in an oven, and pounded, it supplies the place of flour and meal, and is mixed in all their soups, and many of their other dishes. It is extremely nourish- ing, has a pleasant bitter flavour, and may be eaten daily without cloying. They partook of these roots boiled in the manner of potatoes, and found them very wholesome and agreeable. This f)lant is also produced at Oonalashka, where the roots ot it, in ike manner constitute a considerable part of their food. Sweet Grass is the name of the other plant alluded to ; the ho- tanical description of which is Heracleum Sibericum foliia pinna- tis, foliolis quinis, intermediis sessitibus, corrollulis uniformibus. HoRT. Upsal. 65. It was in the month of May that they took Particular notice of it, when it was about eighteen inches in eighty strongly resembled sedge, and was covered with a kind of white down, not unlike the hoar-frost hanging upon it, and which might easily be rubbed off". The taste of it is as sweet as that of sugar, though very hot and pungent. It has a hollow stalk, which consists of three or four joints, with large leaves issuing from each. When this plant attains its full growth it is about six feet in height. This plant was formerly a principal in- gredient in cookery, amongst the Kamtschadales ; but since the country has been in the possession of the Russians, it has been chiefly appropriated to the purpose of distillation. It is gathered, prepared, and distilled, in the following manner ; hav- ing cut the i^talks which have leaves growing on them, and scraped the downy substance from their surface, they are placed ill small heaps till they begin to heat and smell. When dry, they are put into sacks of matting, where they remain a few days, and are then gradually covered over with a sweet saccharine powder, which exudes from the hollow of the stalk. Only a quarter of a pound as powder is obtained from thirty -six pounds of the plant m this state. The women who conduct this business find it neces- sary to defend their hands with gloves whilst they are scraping tiie stalks, the rind being of so acrid a quality as even to ulcerate the part it touches. ;i. cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. b9'^ ppermost of 1 resembles if the stalk, e that, has vild, and in any women ing dried in the Kamts- the seasons ble for flsh- f month is na harvest, hen roasted ly thing the pounded, it in all their ly nourish- illy without ; manner of able. This ots ot it, in .d. to ; the ho- puis pinna- niformibus. [t they took inches in ith a kind on it, and s as sweet a hollow ge leaves rowth it is ncipal in- but since ,.it has lion. It is ner ; hav- hem, and re placed dry, they days, and powder, arter of a he plant it neces- scraping ulcerate In tliis state the spirit is drawn from the plant by the following process : — ^Bundles of it are steeped in hot water, and its fermen- tfttion promoted in a small vessel, with berries of the f(imolost^ OToi' the goiubitsa ; care being taken to close the m(uith of the veasel, and to keep it in a warm place whilst it continues to fer ment, which is often to so violent a degree as to agitate the vessel which contains it, and occasion a considerable noise. When this first liquor is drawn off, more hot water is poured on, and a second made in the same manner. Both liquor and herbs are then put into a copper still, and the spirit is drawn off in the usual method. The hquor, thus prepared, is called by the natives raka, and has the strength of brandy. Seventy-two pounds of the plant generally produces twenty-five pints of raka. Ac- oordmg to Steller, the spirit distilled from this plant unacraped, is very pernicious to health, and produces sudden nervous disorders. Krascheninicoff mentions several other plants from which de- coctions are prepared, and which, when properly intermingled with their fish make palatable dishes. Such is the kipri, with which a pleasant beverage is brewed ; and when this plant and the »weet-herb are boiled together, in the proportion of one to five of the latter, and properly fermented, a strong and excel- lent vinegar is obtained. The leaves are substituted for tea, and the pith, when dried, is introduced in many of their dishes. He also mentioned the morkovai, which is not unlike angelic ; the kotkorica, the root of which is eaten green or dried ; the ikoum^ the utchichlei, and several others. Before the Kamtschadales were acquainted with fire arms, it is said, they poisoned their spears and arrows with a juice ex- tracted from the root of the zgate, and that death was inevitable to every animal who had received a wound from them. The Tschutski are now reported to use the same drug, and for the venr same purpose. Tlie materials of all the manufacturers of Kamtschatka, accord- ing to Krascheninicoff, are furnished by three plants. One of them is the triticum radice perenni spicttlus btnis lanuginosis, which is exceedingly y 'entiful along the coast. A strong kind of matting is fabricated from the straw of this grass, which is used to cover their floors, as well as for bed-clothes, curtains, sacks, and many other domestic purposes. Little bags and baskets a)e also made of the same materials, and are applied to various :ues. The bolotnaia grows in the marshes, and resembles cypercides. It is gathered in the autumn, and is carded in the same manner f's wool, with an instrument made of the bones of the sea-swall6w. With this manufacture their new-born infants are swathed, and it is used for a covering next the skin after they cease to be in- fants. A kind of wadding is also formed of it, which is used to ^ive additional warmth to different parts of their clothing. ii:: ii: ,.!' ■" I, \\ t ;'. !!f; » I \\< ■ A i": ■ -r ■'/ 4 ill! I I IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) k A /^A<^ A K. ^ 1.0 I.I *i^ i^ i2.2 no IL ■ 40 \m i 1.4 I 2.0 1.6 VI V] * w-^ / Photographic Sciences Corporation •SJ \ >^ ^ <<^ >. N TJI '.■mr MAIN STREET WEBITER.N.Y. 14580 (714) 872-4503 w ci^ S94 -I !i cook's third voyage, 1776—1780. A vulgar iwaU 'known planti r«main« to be taken notiQenioti as heinir.'inuFe. eiiSMitial to subsiHlence thaa all.wiiicJit.haAre b«6n meufioned. ,U istlietUKttle, .wiiich as ueither hemp uor jBviX, awprodw^^in.Kixmtaclmtkfii supplies ui^teriak £uir their tisliittg n:iuid(Qn>Avhiei) tlwir existence piriiikcipally,4e same as the European, but ^'ir colours are more. vivid and shining. Some are of a dark chestnut, others have daijk, coloured, stripes; the bellies of some are. M^k, when the other part of the body is of a light chestnut. ISom^e are black, othier^oi;' aidai;k bcown, others of a stogie coloufr, and some , few, ^re, entirely, .vrWte; the last, however, are very, scarce. Xl^e .^i^lity ot' their iar, is mnch superior to that of thp san^e ani- mals in ^i^^rj^ 9^ iVutary Aim. ^f and was nmander of f orders to ndred Cos- »e comple- ■^ng with n the river rchandise. • of which 'as seized had left, nei; and payment ress and very ad- t" gained amented He and unfortw- nissaries «ce and assass nations ni.p : "i^^^at ^as m it. Varion«rL " "P' an^ leaders bS slafn ^'^^^'^ this e^ent: tiJlTtW^r?"^^'^^"^ children) SgZi a n^ '>' ^^''^t ispatch^^^^^^^^^^^ *^« again established i? ^^l'"*"* *» ^^^ own exS^ "^'^^ ^"^ happened tm 1 740 El"""^ ^^^^ P^^od no parS^l" ''!,'• ?"^^« ^«« ««■»! -po" \^ itT V' P-'P"'""' a» ever tT?;^ ^^fovereS "Oldie? frol Okotsk' 1>' K*'?*' ■■"frodured a„o„' •vhich had not a single inhabitant in any of them. The number of the natives is now so much diminished, and so many Russians and Cossacks are continually pouring in upon them^ and intermixing with them by marriage, that, it is pro- bable, very few of them will be left in less than half a century. The government established over this countrjr by the Russians, considered as a military one, is remarkably mild and equitable. The natives are suffered to elect their own magistrates in their own mode, who exercise the same powers they have ever been accustomed to. One of these, called a 7V>io», presides over each oatrog^ to whom all diiferences are referred; and who awards fines and punishments for all offences and misde- meanors ; referring to the governor of Kamtschatka those which are the most intricate ana enormous, not choosing to decide upon them himself. The Toion also appoints a civil officer under him, called a corporal, who assists him in his duty, and officiates for him in his absence. An edict has been issued by the Empress of Russia, that no offence shall be punishable with death. But we are told, that in cases of murder (which rarely happens here) the knout is in- flicted with such severity, that the offender seldom survives the punishment. n some districts, the only tribute that is exacted is a fox's ^. ; in others a sable's ; and, in the Kurile isles, a sea-otter's ; bui as the latter is considerably more valuable, the tnbute of several persons is paid with a single skin. The tribute is col- lected by the Toiona, in the different districts, and is so incon- siderable as hardly to l)e considered in any other light than as an acknowledgment of the Russian dominion over them. The articles exported from this country consist entirely of furs, and this business is principally conducted by a company of merchants appointed by the empress. Twelve was the number of them originally, but three have since been added to them. Besides certain privileges allowed them, they are distinguished by bearing a gold medal, expressive of the empress's protection of the fur trade. There are other inferior traders, chiefly Cos- sacks, in different parts of the country. European articles are the principal that are imported, but they are not solely confined to Russian manufactures; they come from England, Holland, Siberia, Bucharia, the Calmucks, and China. They chiefly consist of course woollen and linen cloths, stockings, bonnets, and gloves ; thin Persian silks, pieces of nankeen, cottons, handkerchiefs, both silk and cotton ; iron stoves, brass and copper pans, files, guns, powder and shot ; hatchets, knives, looking-glasses, sugar, flour, boots, &c. The principal and most valuable part of the fur trade lies among the islands between Kamtschatka and America. Behriug .•»t .»»,« tntnin i-fV i< •».■ . ,• . . - ■■ ■ ,,t , J « j,k.(, ^.n^^iji'. i^lCn^' .> "till •., ')• ((••,i ,,«,j« ., • ^ ' ■ : ,K -ii 4<^«i> o^'»io^i • •(«I ( r:;: . .Htf ..,, <«*> »»»'• •imoirHili »# »« » .4M»i • ■ f»rtl.MUbv»rt^«A»'^, '<»».■•'*•#• ■.urt* »rfi»^*i «»Qii»tt«'". wui f.s'. ... ! Mi i>0'f tut- ;..I>-'1H«» . •*■? ii>'vjr,i%«ilH ,-•> .' Ykv; ' .•>v'V->.. ;i^..: ♦'<(»? Vf«*#ftt> • • • ; liivM'f^'-. ..f>., . •'. t^{ ... > •^>'. ., ;;i,l . . . .'. ?\-rt't-irc-'i'i*««-or» ' ^ri i>Wt.'>'» .ikfe^ ii^di .t.»m»mii.'*i•i<■•■ l "ifin'rvfc-j^-r ; .ir?»t ' I- '•^^.••^♦*^ -a'i •'•■'>■• ^•".♦i* .v.y /wSfv ... * . ' vJfltWJt" 'it^/irn' > fire,;.- i.,( ...rtf V/mrt<}H» '. t li.- .,«/ • I flrjiAQi'M J n .f ••! fein«-Mr .-> f ;j t;>kW!i $. -.-.iiiffHiiii ■. .,i' i ju , iji • Mr). 'f'lfH' f- ,.»if....!i<»).f> 1 '"■' ''ill*) > '^» '':I<-.tl« I /fl-'".' '■■••' .i tJ) » mr 'fdifli^it \i*1 •Af.'iii"''. . : i.iifl'iaj ' '.t^T'- ■ ;-.' IfXi ; f:ft *»*:«>», .» 'M . r ^' - i . f J I ' N [.' ! . ■ ' f >i't'i> 1 " '. : ' • '■;-,■.■: ■■ = f,yi •: _ - f» . t the height of about six inches from tlie ground, which serve tiem for sitting on. and on which they repose, first taking care to cover them with mats and skins. The fire-place is on one 2 E 27 604 cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. side, and on the other their provisions and culinary utensils are stowej. When they make entertainments, the comphment is considered in proportion to the h at of thejourts; the hotter they are made, the more gracious is the reception of the guests considered. They were always so extremely hot as to be into- lerable. To erect a balagan, nine posts are fixed into the earth, in three regular rows, at equal distances from each other, to the height of about twelve or thirteen feet from the surface. About ten feet from the ground rafters are laid from post to post, and securely fastened by strong ropes. The joists are laid upon these rafters, and a turf-covering complete the platform or floor of the balagan. A roof of a conical figure is raised upon this, by means of long poles, which are fastened to the rafters at one end, and meet together in a point at the top. The whole is covered, or rather thatched, with a coarse kind of grass. The isbaSy or log-houses, are thus erected: — ^Long timbers are piled horizontally, with the ends let into each other, and the seams are filled up or caulked with moss. Like those of our common cottages, the roof is sloping, and thatched either with grass or rushes. Each log-house has three apartments in the inside. One end may be said to be a kincf of entry, whicli extends the whole width and height of the house, and seems to be a kind of receptacle for the bulky articles, as sledges, harness, &c. This has a communication with their best apart- ment, which is in the middle, and is furnished with broad benches, calculated both for eating and sleeping upon. A door leads from this irto the kitchen, almost half of which is taken up with an oven or fire-place, which is let into the wall that separates the middle apartment and the kitchen, and is so constructed as to communicate the heat to both rooms at the same time. A town is called an ostrog in Kamtschatka, and consists of several houses or habitations of the various kinds above-men- tioned. The dress of the Kamtschadale women having already been described, we shall proceed to that of the men. The upper garment resembles that of a wagoner's frock. If for summer wear, it is made of nankeen, if intended for winter, is made of a skin, (generally that of a deer or dog) having one side tanned, and the hair preserved on the other, which is worn innermost. A close jacket of nankeen, or some other cotton stuff, is the next under this ; and beneath that, a shirt made of thin Persian silk, of a red, blue, or yellow colour. They wear also a pair of long breeches, or tight trousers, of leather, reaching below tlie calf of the leg. They have a fur cap, having two flaps that are usually tied up close to the head, but are permitted to fall round the shoulders in bad weathor. Their fur dress, which was presented by Major Behm » son to Captain King, was one of those worn on ceremonious occasions y utensils are ;ompliment is ts; the hotter of the guests as to be into- I the earth, in other, to the rface. About }t to post, and lid upon these or floor of the this, by means one end, and is covered, or ng timbers are other, and the B those of our led either with rtments in the f entry, whicli , and seems to 8, as sledges, eir best apart- d with broad pon. A door Lch is taken up that separates o constructed same time. d consists of s above- men- already been , The upper [f for summer feer, is made of [e side tanned, Irn innermost, stutf, is the If thin Persian also a pair of ling below tlie [flaps that are to fall round lehm s son to Lous occasions y V • cook's third VOYAGE, 1776 — 1780. 605 by the Toins. It is shaped like the exterior garment we have just described^ and consists of small triangular pieces of fur^ chequered browa and white^ and so ingeniously Joined as to appear to be of the same skin. A border of the breadth of &ix inches^ curiously wrought with different coloured threads of leather, surrounds the bottom, and produces a rich effect. A broad edging of the sea otter's skin is suspended to this. The sleeves are ornamented with the same materials. An edging of it also encircles the neck, and surrounds the opening at the breast. It is Uned with a beautiful white skin. And the pre- sent was accompanied with a pair of gloves, a cap, and a pair of boots, executed with the utmost neatness, and composed of the same materials. The Russians who reside in Kamtschatka, wear the European dress ; and the uniform worn by the troops, is of a dark green turned up with red. The Kuri!es are a chain of islands extending from latitude 51 deg. to 45 min., running from the southern promontory of Kamts- chatka^ to Japan, in a south-west direction. The inhabitants of the neighbourhood of Lopatka, who were themselves called Kuriles, gave those islands the same name as soon as they be> came acquainted with them. Spanberg says they are twenty- two in number, exclusive of the very small ones. Many of the inhabitants of those islands that are under the dominion of Russia are now converted to Christianity. And perhaps the time is not far distant, when an advantageous com- merce will be carried on between Kamtschatka and this exten- sive chain of islands, which may afterwards produce a commu- nication with Japan itself. As the Lords of the Admiralty, in the instructions which they had given for the regulation of the present yoyage, had in- structed the commanding officer of the expedition with a discre- tionary power, in case of not succeeding in the discovery of a passage from me PaciHc Ocean into the Atlantic, to make choice, in his return to England, of whatever route he should judge best adapted for the improvement of geography. Captain Gore desired that the principal officers would deliver their sentiments in writing, relat*tre to the mode in which these instructions might most effectually be carried into execution. The result of their opinions, which, to his great satisfaction he found unanimous, and perfecdy agreeing with his own, was, that the condition of the vessels, of the ssiils, cordage, &c. rendered it hazardous and unsafe to make any attempt, as the winter was now ap- proaching, to navigate the sea between Asia and Japan, which would otherwise have opened to us the most copious field for discovery; that it was therefore most prudent to steer to the eastwara of that island, and in the way thither, to sail along the Kuriles, and examine, in a most particular manner, those islands that are situated nearest to the northern coast of Japan^ which are said to be of con uderable extent, and not sub- \i i m I G06 cook's third voyage, 1776—1780. ject to the Russians or Japanese. Should they have the good furtune to meet with some secure and commodious harbours in any of those islands, they supposed they might prove of con- siderable importance, as convenient places of shelter for subse- quent navigators, who might be employed in exploring the seas, or as the means of. producing a commercial intercourse among the adjacent dominions of the two above-mentioned empires. The next object was to take a survey of the coasts of the Ja- panese isles ; after which they designed to make the coast of China, as far to the north as was in their power, and proceed along it to Macao. This plan of operations being adopted. Captain King was ordered by Captain Gore, in case the two ships should separate, to repair without delay to Macao ; and on the 9th of October, about six o'clock in the afternoon, having cleared the entrance of the bay of Awatska, they made sail to the south-eastward, the wind blowing from the north-west-and-by-west. A perfect calm ensued at midnight, and continued till noon of the following day ; at which time the light-house was at the distance of f( ur- teen or fifteen miles, bearing north-half-west ; and Cape Gavareea bore south-by-west-half-west. The depth of water being sixty and seventy fathoms, our people were very profitably engaged in catching cod, which were extremely fine, and in great abun- dance. A breeze springing up from the west about three in the slfternoon, they steered to the south alon^ the coast. On Monday the 11th, the ships were m the latitude of 52 deg. 4 min., and in the longitude of 158 deg. 31 min., and did not approach very near the Kurile Islands. On the 19th the latitude, at this time, was 44 deg. 12 min., and longitude 150 deg. 40 min.; so that, after all their exertions, they had the mortification of finding themselves, according to the Russian charts, upon the same meridian with Nadeegsda, which is represented as the most southerly of all the Kurile Islands, and about sixty miles to the southward. All hopes r^ fiirther discovery to the northward of Japan was reluctantly abandoned ; but on the 20th, at break of day, they had the satisfaction of perceiving high land towards the west, which proved to be Japan. At eight o'clock, it was the distance of ten or twelve miles, and extended I'rom south-b^-west to north-west. A low flat cape, which apparently constituted the southern part of the entrance of a bay, bore north-west three- quarters west. Near the south extremity, a hill of a conic figure appeared, bearing south-by-west three-quarters west. To the north of this hill there seemed to be an inlet of very consider- able depth, the northern side of whose entrance is formed bv a low point of land ; and, as well as they were enabled to judge by the assistance of glasses, has a smaU island near it towards the south. Having stood on till nine o'clock- thev had by that time ap- P tl w a a cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. 607 mm. most to the In was they west, stance ;st to ^d the Ithree- jider- proached within five or six miles of the land, which bore west- three-quarters-south. ITie depth of water was fifty-eight fathoms, with a bottom composed of very fine sand. They now tacked, and stood off; but, as the wind miled them, they had proceeded at noon, to no greater distance from shore than about three leagues. This part of the coast extended from north-west-by- north to south-nalf-east, and was principally bold and cliffy. The low cape above-mentioned was about six leagues distant, bearing north-west-by-west ; and the northern point of the inlet was in the direction of south-three-quarters-west. The latitude, by observation, was 40 deg. 5 min., and the longitude 142 deg. 28 min. The most northerly land in view, was supposed to be the northern extremity of Japan.* It is somewhat lower than the other parts; and, from the range of the elevated lands that were discerned over it from the mast-head, the coast mani- festly appeared to tend to the westward. The northern point of the inlet was imagined by them to be Cape Nambu ; and they conjectured that the townf stood in a break of the high landf, towards which the inlet apparently directed itself. The neigh- bouring country is of a moderate elevation, and has a double range of mountains. It is well furnished with wood, and exhi- bits a pleasing variety of hills and dales. They perceived the smoke arising from several villages or towns, and saw many houses in delightful and cultivated situations, at a small distance from the shore. While the calm continued, that they might loose no time, they put the fishing-lines overboard in ten fathoms' water, but met with no success. This being the only diversion which pre- sent circumstances permitted them to eiyoy, they very sensibly felt the disappointment ; and looked back with regret to the cod- banks of the dismal regions they had lately quitted, which had furnished so many salutary meals, and by the amusement they afforded, had given a variety to the tedious recurrence of the same nautical and astronomical observations, and the wearisome succession of calms and gales. At two o'clock in the afternoon, the wind blew fresh from the south, and by four, had reduced them to close reefed top-sails, and obliged them to stand off to the south-eastward, in conse- quence of which course, and the gloominess of the weather, they soon lost sight of land. They kept on during the whole night, and till eight o'clock the following morning, when the wind s' lifting to the north, and becoming moderate, they made sail, and steered a west-south-west course towards the land, * The most accurate surrey of the eastern coast of Japan appears to be that which was published by Janseu iu his Atlas, and compiled with a great degree of exactness from the Journals and Charts of the Costricom and Breskes. We have, therefore, thought proper to adopt, wherever we could nearly ascertain the identity of the situa- tions, the names affixed in Janseu's map to the corresponding headlands and points ob> served along the coast. t Janseu calls this town Nabo. ()08 cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. which, however, they did not make before three in the afternoon ; at which time it was seen to extend from north-west-half-west to west. The most northerly extremity was a continuation of the elevated land, which was tlie southernmost they had ob- served the preceding day. The land to the westward they con- jectured to be the Ho/e Ta/el Berg (or High Table HJl) of Jansen. The coast, between the two extremes, was low, and could scarcely be perceived, except from the mast-head. They proceeded towards the coast till eight in the evening, when the distance from it was about five leagues ; and haying shortened sail for the night, they steered in a southerly direc- tion, sounding every four hours ; but the depth of water was so ,^reat, that they did not find ground, with a hundred and sixty i'athoms of Hne. They again sa.ir land on the 28tb about six o'clock in the '.uiorniiig. It lay twelve leagues to the southward of that which iiad been seen the day before, and extended from west-by-north to west-south-west. Steering south-west obliquely with the shore, they saw, at ten o'clock, more land in. that direction. To the west of this land, which is low and level, were two islands, as was supposed, though some doubts were entertained whether they were not united with the neighbouti^^^g low ground.^ The haziness of the weather, as well as the distance, rendered it likt- wise impossible to ascertain, whether there were not some inlets or harbours between the projecting points, which here seemed to promise tolerable shelter. At noon the northern extremity of the land in view bore north- west-by-north, and a lofty peaked hill, over a steep head-land, was fifteen or sixteen miles distant, bearing west-by-north. The present latitude, by observation, was 38 deg. 16 min., and longitude 142 deg. 9 min. The mean of the variation was found to be 1 deg. 20 min. east. The land disappeared from view between three and four o'clock in the afternoon ; and from its breaking o£f so suddenly, it was imagined that what they had seen this day was an island, or, perhaps, a group of islands, situated oflF the main land of Ja- pan ; but, as the islands called by D'Anville Matsima, and by Jansen the Schilpads, though represented as being nearly in the same situation, are unequal in extent to the land seen by them, this point must be left undetermined. The ships continued their course to the south-west during the remainder of the day, and at midnight, found the depth of water to be seventy fathoms, over a bottom of fine brown sand. They therefore hamed up towards the east, till the next morning, when they again had sight of land, about eleven leagues to the south of that which they hed seen the preceding day. On Saturday the 30th, at nine o'clock in the morning, the land was seen extending from west-by-north to north-west a quarter west, at the distance of fifteen or sixteen leagues. It C00K*3 THIRD VOYAGE, 177G — 1780, COD [ng the water They when south ., the irest a It showed itself in detached parts, but they were not near enough to ascertain whether they were small islands or parts of Japan. At noon the land extended from west to north-west, and the nearest part of it was twelve or thirteen leagues distant, beyond which the coast appeared to run in a western direction. The latitude, by observation, was 36 deg. 41 min., and the longitude 142 deg. 6 min. The point to the north, which was imagined to be near the southernmost land, seen the preceding day, was suy)- posed to be Cape de Kennis ; and the break to the south of this pointy was thought to be the mouth of the river, on which the town named Gissima is said to stand. The next cape is, in all probability, that which is called Boomtie's Point, in the Dutch charts ; and the most southerly one, of which the ships were abreast at noon, was conjectured to be near Low Point (termed by Jansen Lage Hoeck, and placed by him in the latitude of 30 deg. 40 min.), and that the distance was too -^reat to admit of seeing the low land^ in which it probably termmates, towards the east. On the 1st of November the fair weather enabled the voyagers to obtain, with four different quadrants, forty-two sets of dis- tances of the moon from the sun and stars, each set compre- hending six observations. These nearly coinciding with each other, fix, with great accuracy, their situation, at twelve o'clock this day, in the longitude oi 141 deg. 32 min.; the latitude, by observation, being 36 deg. 17 min. In the reckonings of the 31st of October, was found an error, with respect to latitude, of eight miles, and of seventeen in this day's computations ; from which circumstance, as well as from the ship being much more to the east than was expected, it was inferred, that there had been a violent current from the south-westward. The ships again made the land towards the west, at two o'clock in the afternoon, at the distance of twelve or thirteen leagues. The most southerly land in view, imagined to be White Point (or PFhite Hoecky placed by Jansen in the latitude of 35 deg. 24 min.), bore west-south-west-half-west. A hummock to the northward, which had an insular appearance, bore north-north- west-half-west ; and within this was discerned from the mast- head some low land^ which was supposed to be Sand-down Point, called Sandnynege Hoeck by Jansen, who has placed it io the latitude of 35 deg. 55. min. Steering for the land till between five and six, many Japanese vessels were seen close in with the land, some standing along the shore, and others apparently occupied in fishing. ^ They now descried to the westward a mountain of extraordinary height with a round summit rising far inland. There is no high ground in the neighbourhood of it, the coast being of a moderate eleva- tion, and^ as far as the haziness of the horizon permitted them to judge, much broken and indented by small inlets. But, to the south of the hummock island above-mentioned, there appeared, E5 ■■■\ i> CIO cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. at a considerable distance up the country, a ridge of hills, which extended towards the mountain, and might perhaps join with it. Its latitude was judged to be 35 deg. 20 min., and its longitude 140 deg. 26 min.^ the latter being estimated.by its distance from the ships, at the time, fifteen leagues. As the coast of Japan is represented, in ihe Dutch charts, as extending nine or ten leagues to the south-west of White J^oint, the ships tacked at eight o'clock in the evening, and stood off to the eastward, with a view of weathering that point. They again tacked, at midnight, to the south-westward, under the ex- pectation of falling in with the coast to the south, but were sur- prised, at eight the next morning, to see the hummock at no greater distance than three leagues, in the direction of west-north- west. At noon, they found, by observation, that they were actually in the latitude of 35 deg. 43 min., at a time when, ac- cording to their reckonings, it was 34 deg. 48 min. It therefore appeared, that, during the eight hours in which they imagined they had proceeded nine leagues to the south-westward, they had really been carried eight leagues from the situation they left, in a totally opposite direction ; which occasioned, upon the whole, a difference of seventeen leagues in the computation in tliat inconsiderable space of time. From this error it- was estimated that the current had set at the rate of at least five knots an hour to the north-east by north. The present longitude was 141 deg. 10 min. On Wednesday the 3rd, in the morning, they found themselves, by reckoning, at the distance of upwards of fifty leagues from the coast; which circumstance, united to the consideration of the very uncommon effect of currents already experienced, the advanced period of the year, the variable and uncertain state of the weather, and the small prosjiect of any alteration for the better, induced Captain Gore to form the resolution of leaving Japan and prosecuting the voyage to China ; particularly as he entertained hopes, that, since the tract he intended to pursue had not ^et been explored, he might perhaps find an'Jopportunity of making amends, by some new and important discovery, for the disappointments sustained upon this coast. If any readers should be inclined to suppose that Captain Gore relinquished this object too hastily, it may be observed, in addi- tion to the facts before stated, that the coast of Japan, according to Koemfer's description of it, is the most dangerous in all the known world ;* that it would have been exceedingly hazardous, in case of distress, to have run into any of the harbours of that country, where, if we may credit the most authentic writers, the aversion of the natives to a communication with strangers, has prompted thenvto the commission of the most flagrant acts of barbarity ; that the vessels were in a leaky condition, that the * Koemfer's Hit tory of Japan, vol. i. pp. 92, 93, 94, and 102. COOK*S THIRD VOYAGE, 1776 — 1780. 611 rigging was so rotten as to require continual repairs, and tliat the sails were almost entirely worn out, and incapable of with- standing the vehemence of a gale of wind. In proceeding towards the Bashee Isles the ships passed much pumice-stone ; amazing quantities of which substance floating m the sea betwixt the Japan and the Bashee Isles, give reason to suppose that, in this quarter of the Pacific Ocean^ some great volcanic convulsion must have happened; and consequently afford some degree of probability to the opinion of Mr. MuUer, relative to the separation of the continent of Jeso, and the dis- appearance of Staten Island and the Company's Land. About six o'clock in the afternoon of the 13th, they steered to the south-south-west. Captain Gore deeming it useless to stand any longer towards the south-south-west, as they were nearly in the same meridian with the Ladrones or Marianne Islands, an* at no very considerable distance from the track of the Manilla galleons. In the moniing of Sunday the 14th had fine weather^ and the wind, which blew moderately, shifted by degrees to the north-east point, a: d proved to be the trade-wind. At ten o'clock, Mr. Trevenen, one of the young gentlemen who accom- panied Captain King in the Discovery, after the death of Captain Clerke, saw land in the direction of south-west, which had the appearance of a peaked mountain. At noon the longitude was 142 deg. 2 min., and the latitude 24 deg. 37 rain. The land in view, which was now discovered to be an island, was nine or ten leagues distant, bearing south-west half-west; and, at two o'clock in the afternoon, descried another to the west-north-westward. This second island, when viewed at a distance, appears like two ; the southern point consisting of a lofty hill of a conic figure, united by a narrow neck to the northern land, which is of a moderate elevation. Tliis island being manifestly of greater extent than that to the southward, they directed their course towards it, and the next morning, at six, making sail for it, they discovered another high island, in the direction of north-three-quarters- west ; the island to the southward being on the same rhomb line, and the s.outh extreme of the island a-head bearing west-by-north. At nine o'clock they were abreast of the middle island, and within the distance of a mile from it: but Captain Gore, finding thr'aboat could not land without running some risk from the hea.y surf that broke against the shore, continued his course to the westward. The latitude at noon, by observation, was 24 deg. 50 min., and the longitude 140 deg. 56 min. The length of this island, in the direction of south-south-west, and north-north-east, is about five miles. Its south point is an elevated barren hill, rather flat at the summit, and when seen from the west-south-west, exhibits an evident volcanic crater. The sand, earth, or rock (for it was difficult to distinguish of 612 COOK 8 TMIRO VOYAGE, 1776—1780. which of thene substances its surface was composed), displayed various colours ; and they imagined that a considerable part was sulphur, not only from its appearances to the e^e, but from the strong sulphureous smell perceived by them in their approach to the point. The Resolution having passed nearer the land, several of the officers of the ship thought they discerned streams proceeding from the top of the hill. These circumstances in- duced Captain Gore to bestow on this discovery the appellation of Sulphur Island. The north and south islands had the appearance of single mountains, of a considerable elevation ; the former was peaked, and of a conic form; the latter more square and flat at the summit. Sulphur Island is judged to be in the latitude of 24 deg. 48 min., and the longitude of 141 deg. 12 min. The north island in the latitude of 25 deg. 14 min., and in the longitude of 141 deg. 10 min. ; and the south island in the latitude of 24 deg. 22 min., and the longitude of 141 deg. 20 min. Captain Gore now thought proper to direct his course to the west-south-we8t> for the Bashee Isles, with the hopes of pro- curing at them such a supply of refreshments as might render *it less necessary to continue long at Macau. These islands received a visit from Captain Dampier, who has given a very favourable account, as well of the civility of the natives, as of the abundance of hogs and vegetables with which the country is furnished. Thev were afterwards seen by Commodore Byron and Captain Wallis, who passed them without landing. For the purpose of extending the view ir the day time, the ships sailed at the distance of between two and three leagues from each other : and during the night proceeded under an easy sail ; so that it was scarcely possible to avoid observing any land that lay in the vicinity of their course. In this manner they continued their progress without any interesting occurrence, having a fresh breeze from the north-east, till Monday the 22nd, when it augmented to a strong gale, with vehement squalls of wind and rain, which reduced them to close-reefed top-sails. The following day, at twelve o'clock, the latitude, by account, was 21 deg. 5 min., and the longitude 123 deg. 20 min. About six in the afternoon, being at the distance of only one-and-twenty leagues from the Bashee islands, according to their position in Mr. Dalrymple's map, and the weather being squally, with a thick haze, they handed the fore-topsail^ and hauled the wind towards the north-north-west. The ships continued to stand to the north-north-west till nine, when they tacked, and steered to the south south-eastward, till four o'clock in the morning of Thursday the 25th, at which time they wore. In the night there was an eclipse of the moon, but they were prevented by the rain from making any observation. It unfortunately happened that one of the Discovery's people. cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. 613 being occupied at the time of the greatest darkness in stowing the main-top-mast-stay-sail, ieli overboard, but immediately catching hold of a rope, wnich was providentially hanging out of the fore-chains into the see, and the ship being brought into the wind without delay, he was got on-board with no other hurt than a trifling bruise on one of his shoulders. On the 26th, at twelve o'clock, the latitude, by observation, was 21 deg. 12 min., and the longitude 120 deg. 25 min. In the course of this day many tropic birds and a flock of ducks, also porpoises and dolphins wer^ seen ; and the following morning at six o'clock, they again made sail to the west, in search of the Bashee Isles. Captain King began now to entertain apprehensions, lest, in the prosecution of a search for those islands, they should get so far to the south as to be under the necessity of passing to leeward of the Pratas : in which case it might have proved extremely difficult for such bad sailing vessels to fetch Macao, especially if the wind should continue to blow (as it now did) from the north-north-east and north. The Captain having some doubts whether Mr. Dalrymple's maps were on board the Resolution^ made sail, and hailed her ; and having informed Captain Gore of ^ the situation of these shoals, and his apprehensions of being driven too much to the southward, the latter gave him to under- stand that he should continue his course during that day, being still not without hopes of finding Mr. Byron's longitude right; and therefore ordered Captain King to spread a few miles to the south. The weather at twelve o'clock became hazy ; the latitude at that time was 21 deg. 2 min. and the longitude 118 deg. 30 min. At six in the afternoon, having got to the west of the Bashee Islands, according to Admiral Byron's account. Captain Gore hauled the wind to the north-westward, under an easy sail, the wind blowing with great vehemence, and there being every pros> per<- of a tempestuous night. On the 28th^ at four o'clock in the morning, the Resolution, which was then half a mile a-head of the Discovery, wore, and the crew of the latter ship, at the same time, perceived breakers close under their lee. On the approach of day-Ught they had sight of the island of Prata ; ana between the hours of six and seven, stood towards the shoal, but finding themselves unable to weather it, bore away, and ran to leeward. As they passed along the south side, within the distance of a mile from the reef, they saw two remarkable patches on the edge of the breakers^ that had the appearance ot wrecks. At noon, the latitude discovered by double altitudes, was 20 deg. 39 min. and the longitude was 116 deg. 45 min. The island of Prata was now three or four leagues distant, bearing north three quarters east. Near the southern extremity of the island^ and on the south-western side of the reef, they imagined that 614 cook's third voyage, 1776—1780. they saw from the mast-head several openings in the reef, which seemed to promise secure anchorage. The extent of the Prata shoal is considerable ; for it is about six leagues from north to souths and extends three or four leagues to tlie east of the island ; its limits to the westward they had not an opportunity of ascertaining. Its north-eastern extremity is judged to be in the latitude of '20 deg. 68 min. and the longitude of 117 deg. ; and its south-west end they place in the latitude of ^0 deg. 45 min. and the longitude of 116 deg. 44 min. The ships carried a press of sail during the remainder of the day, and kept the wind, which now blew from the north-east by north, in order to secure a jiassa^^e to Macao. It was a fortu- nate circumstance that the wind favoured them towards the even> ing, by veering two points more to the eastward ; for, if the wind and weather had continued the same as they had been in the preceding week, they would scarcely have been able to havr fetched that port, in which case they must have repaired to Ba- tavia ; a place they had good reason to dread, from the terrible havock which the unhealthiness of the chmate had occasioned among the crews of the former vessels that had been employed in voyages of discovery, and had touched there. In the morning of Monday the 29th, they passed some Chi- nese fishing-boats, the crews of which eyed the ships with marks of great indiiference. In fishing they make use of a large dredge-net, resembling a hollow cone in shape, with a flat iron rim fixed to the lower part of its mouth. The net is fastened with cords to the head and stern of the boat, which being left to follow the impulse of the wind, draws the net after it, with the iron rim dragging along the bottom. The sea was covered with the wrecks of boats which had been lost, as was supposed, in the late stormy weather. Tlie latitude at twelve o'clock, by observation, was 22 deg. 1 min. ; and since the preceding noon the ships had run a hundred and ten miles upon a north-west course. The next morning they ran along the Lema Isles, which, like the other islands situated on this coast, are destitute of wood ; and as far as they had an opportunity of observing, devoid of cultivation. About nine o'clock a Chinese boat, which had before been with the Reso- lution, came alongside the Discovery with o£fers of a pilot, which, however. Captain King declined, as it was incumbent upon him to foUow his consort. Not long afterwards they pass- ed the westernmost of the Lema rocks ; but instead of hauling up to the north of the Grand Ladrone Island, as was done by Lord Anson in the Centurion, they sailed to leeward. From apprehensions of missing Macao, and being obliged to repair to batavia, added to the strong and ardent desires of hearing intelligence from Europe, the crew of the Discovery re- joiced on observing the Resolution soon after fire a gun, and display her colours as a signal for a pilot. On the repetition of cook's thiud voyage, 177G — 1780. 615 (eg. 1 idred they bated the sipfnal there was an excellent race between four Chinese boats; and Captain Go*e engaged with the person who arrived first, to conduct the ship to the Typa, for the sum of thirty dollars, sending word, at the same time, to Captain King, that, as he could easily follow hink with the Discovery, that expense might be saved to him. In a short time afterwards a second pilot getting on board the Resolution, insisted on guiding the ship ; and immediately lay- ing hold of the wheel, began to order the sails to be trimmed. This ^ave rise to a violent altercation, which was at length com- promised by their agreeing to divide the money between them. In pursuance of the instructions which had been given to Captain Cook by the Lords of the Admiralty, it now became necessary to desire the officers and men to deliver up their jour- nals, and all other papers they might have in their possession, relative to the history of the voyage. Some degree of delicacy, as well as firmness, seemed to be requisite in the execution of these orders. Captain King, therefore, assembled the Disco- very's people on deck, and informed them of the orders that had been received, and the reasons which, in his opinion, ought to induce them to yield a perfect obedience. He, at the same time, gave them to understand, that whatever ()apers they wish- ed not to have sent to the Lords of the Admiralty, should be sealed up in their o>vn i)resence, and preserved in his custody till the intentions of their lordships, respecting the publication of the history of the voyage, were accomplished; after which he said they should be faithfully restored to tneni. Captain King had the satisfaction to find that his proposals met with the approbation and the ready compliance not only of the officers, but also of the rest of the ship's company ; and every scrap of paper that contained an account of any trans- actions relating to the present voyage was immediately given up. The Captain observes, upon this occasion, that it is but doings justice to the seamen of this ship to declare, that they were the best disposed, and the most obedient men he ever knew, though the greatest part of them were very young, and had never served before in a ship of war. Captain Gore made the same proposals to the people of the Resolution, who instantly complied with them, and delivered up all tlieir papers which had any reference to the voyage. The next day, December the 1st, the ships stood on their tacks, during the afternoon, between the Grand Ladrone and the island of Potoe, having passed to the east of the latter. The tide beginning to ebb at nine o'clock, they again cast anchor in six fathoms' water ; the town of Macao being at the distance of nine or ten miles, in a north-west direction, and the isle of Potoe bearing south-half-west^ six or seven miles distant. On the 2nd of December, in the morning, one of the Chinese cootraqtors, who are known by the appelktion of Compradort, 616 cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. came on-board the Resolution, and sold to Captain Gore as much beef as weighed two hundred pounds, together with a consider- able quantity of eggs, oranges, and greens. The Discovery re- ceived a proportional share of these articles ; and an agreement was made with the Comprador to provide a dailv supply, for which, however, he insisted on being paid before hand. As the pilot now pretended that he could conduct the ships no further. Captain Gore was under the necessity of discharging him ; and at two o'clock in the afternoon, the tide flowing, they took up their anchors, and at seven, anchored again in three fathoms and a half of water ; at which time Macao bore west, at the distance of one league. Captain Gore, in the evening, dispatched Captain King to Macao, to pay a visit to the Portuguese governor, a.^d to request the favour of his assistance in supplying the ships with provi- sions, which he imagijied might be done on more moderate terms than the Comprador would undertake to furnish them. Captain King, at the same time, took an account of the naval stores, of which both the ships were in great want, with an intention of repairing immediately to Canton, and making application to the servants of our East-India Company, who resided there at that time. The governor was indisposed, and was therefore unwil- ling to receive visitors, but Captain King was assured that he might depend on meeting with every assistance in their power. This^ however, he understood would be very inconsiderable, and indeed, the answer that was returned i;o Captain King's first request, furnished a sufficient proof of the reduced state of the Portuguese power ; for on his signifying to the major his desire of proceeding to canton as soon as possible, the latter acquainted him that they could not presume to provide a boat for him till permission had been obtained from the Hoppo, or officer of the customs ; and that it veas necessary to apply for this purpose, to the Chinese government at Canton. Captain King was returning to the ship in a state of ^reat de- jection, when the Portuguese officer, who accompanied him, asked him whether he did not intend to visit the English gentle- men at Macao. It is unnecessary to add vvith what transport he received this intelligence, and he and his companions walked towards the house of one of their countrymen. The re- ception they met with was by no means deficient in civility or kindness, though, from the state of agitation they were in, it ap- peared to them rather cold and formal. The intelligence gained, coroerning the state of affairs in Europ J, rendered the voyagers more anxious to accelerate their departure as much as they possibly could. Captain King, there- fore, renewed his endeavours to procure a passage to Canton, but did not meet with success. He was now informed, that the difficulty arising from tlie settled policy of the country, would, ia all probability, be greatly augmented by an incident which cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. 617 for ?at de- him, rentle- isport iiiions [he re- |ity or 1 it ap- had occurred a few weeks before his arrival. Captain Panton had been sent from Madras in a ship of war of twenty-five guns^ called the Seahorse, for the purpose of urging the payment of a debt which the Chinese merchants of Canton owed to private British subjects in Europe and India, and which amounted to almost a million sterling, including the principal and compound interest. With this view, he was directed to make a peremptory demand of an audience of the Viceroy of Canton, which, after, some delay, and not before recourse had been had to menaces, was at length granted. The answer he received,, with regard to the subject of his mission, was ^ir and satisfactory ; but he had no sooner departed, than an edict was stuck up in the public places of the city, and on the houses of the Europeans, prohibit- in If all foreigners from lending money, on any pretence what- ever, to the subjects of the Emperor of China. ^ The arrival of the two ships, at such a time, could not fail of giving rise to fresh alarms. Captain King, therefore, finding there was no prospect of his proceeding to Canton, dispatched a letter to the Committee of the English Supercargoes, to inform them of the reason of putting into the Tygris, and to request their assistance in procuring mm a passport, as well as in for- warding the stores the ships had occasion for of which Captain King sent them a list with all possible expedition. Early on the morning of the 4th, the vessels weighed aga?n, and stood into the Typa, where th^ry moored with the stream anchor and cable to the west. On Thursday the 9th, Captain Gore received an answer from the English Supercargoes a*. Canton, in which they promised to exert their most strenuous endeavours in procming the supplies of which thev were in want, with all possible dispatch, and assured him tnat a passport should be sent for one of the officers. The r.ext day, an English merchant, from one of the East Indian settlements, made application to Captain Gore for the assistance of a few of his people to navigate as far as Canton a vessel which he had purchased at Macao. Captain Gore, con- sidering this as a good opportunity for Captain King to repair to that city, gave orders that be should take with him his second Ueutenant, the lieutenant of marines, and ten sailors. Though this was not the exact mode in which Captain King could have wished to visit Canton, yet as it was highly uncertain when the passport would arrive, and his presence might be of great service in expediting tlie requisite supplies, he did not scruple to go on board the vessel, having lelt orders with Mr. Williamson to prepare the Discovery for sea with all convenient speed, and make such additions and improvements in her upper works, as might contribute to render her more defensible. That the series of astronomical observations might not be inter- rupted by his absence, he intrusted Mr. Trevenin with the care of continuing them. 618 cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. Captain King and his attendants quitted the harbour of Macao on Saturday the 11th ; and sailing round the south-eastern extreme of the island; steered a northerly course, leaving on their right hand, as they passed along, Lantao Lintin, and several isles of smaller extent. All these islands, as well as that of Macao, which is situated to the left, are totally destitute of wood : the land is high and unfertile, and is not inhabited, except occasion- ally by fishermen. The progress being retarded by contrary winds, and the light- ness of the vessel, they did not arrive at Wampu till the 18th. Wampu is a small town, of which the ships of the various na- tions who trade with the Chinese are stationed, in order to receive their respective ladings. Here Captain King embarked in a sampane, or Chinese boat, and immediately proceeded to Canton, which is eight or nine miles higher up the river. The sampanes are the neatest and most commodious boats for passengers that Mr. King ever saw. They are of different sizes, of great breadth upon the beam, nearly flat at the bottom, and narrow at the head and stem, which are elevated, and embellished with ornaments. The middle part, where Captain King sat, was arched over with a roof made of bamboo, which may, at pleasure, be raised or lowered ; in the sides were small windows, which had shutters to them ; and the apartment was furnished with tables, chairs, and handsome mats. A small waxen idol was placed in the stern, in a case of gilt lea- ther. Before the image stood a pot that contained lighted tapers made of matches, or dry chips and gum. The fare of this boat amounted to a Spanish dollar. Captain King reached Canton in the evening, and disembarked at the English factory, where, though his arrival was wholly un- expected, he was received with every mark of civility and respect. The stores were ready to be shipped, and the provisions could be had at a day's notice. Captain King, being desirous of making his stay here as short as possible, requested that he might have junks or boats the next day, as it was his wish to j[uit Canton the following one : but a business of this nature was not to be transacted witn such quick- ness »n the Chinese dominions : leave must be o- lined provi- sionally from the Viceroy, and application must be first made to the HoppOj or principal officer of the customs for chops or permits. After Captain King had waited several d^ys, with great impa- tience, for the issue of his negotiation, with(3ut finding that the affair was in the least advanced, he made application to the com- mander of an English country ship, who intended to sail on the 25th, and who offered to take on-board the men and stores, and to lie to, unless the weather should prevent iii^ii, off Macao, till boats could be sent to receive them out of his >'es8el. He at the same time apprized Captain Kiwg of the danger he might per> haps incur of being driven out to sea with them. cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. 619 While Mr. King was considering what steps he should take, the commander of another country ship presented him with a letter from Captain Gore, importing that he had engaged this commander to bring their party from Canton, and to deliver the supplies, at his own hazard, in the Typa. All difficulties being then removed, Mr. King had leisure to bestow some attention on the purchase of stores and provisions, which he completed on the 26th ; and on the succeeding day, the whole stock was con- veyed on-board. Captain Gore being of opinion that Canton would be the most advantageous market for furs, had desired Mr. King to take with him about twenty skins of sea-otters ; most of which had been the property of the deceased commanders, and to dispose of them at the best price he could obtain. Mr. King having in- formed some of the English supercargoes of the circumstance, requested that they would recommend him to some reputable Chinese merchant, who would at once offer him a reasonable price for the skins. They accordingly directed him to a member q£ the Hong, (an appellation given to a society of the principal merchants of the city), who assured him that he might rely on his integrity, and that, in an affair of this kind, he should con>- sider himself a mere agent, without seeking to acquire any profit for himself. The skins being laid before this merchant, he examined them over and over again with particular attention, and at last in- formed Captain King that he could not think of offering more th :in three hundred dollars for them. As the captain was con- vinced, from the price at which the skins had been sold at Kamtschatka, that he had not offered one half of their value, he was obliged to drive a bargain. He, therefore, in his turn, de- manded a thousand dollars ; the Chinese merchant then advanced to five hundred j after which he oflFered Captain King a private pre- sent of porcelain and tea, which amounted to a hundred more ; then he proposed to give the sum in money ; and at length rose to seven hundred dollars ; upon which the captain lowered his demands to nine hundred. Here, each of them declaring that he would not recede, they parted ; but the Chinese speedily re- turned with a list of East India commodities, which he now desired that Captain King would take in exchange, and which (as the captain was afterwards informed) would have amounted in value, if faithfully delivered, to double the sum the merchant ha,d before offered. Finding the captain unwilling to deal in this mode, he finally proposed that they should divide the difference, which Captain King, wearv of the contest, agreed to, and re- ceived the eight hundred dollars. Captain Kin^, during his continuance at Canton, accompanied one of the English gentlemen on a visit to a person of the first dis- tinction in the place. They were received in a long room or gallery, at the further end of which a table was placed, with a large chair J 620 COO!C*S THIRD VOYAGE, 177C — 1780. behind it^ and a row of chairs extending from it^ on both sides^ down the room. Tlie Captain having been previously instructed, that the point of politeness consisted in remaining unseated as long as possible, readily submitted to this piece of etiquette ; after which he and his friend were treated with tea, and some fresh and preserved fruits. Their entertainer was very corpulent, had a dull heavy countenance, and displayed great gravity in his deportment. He had learned to speak a little broken English and Portuguese. After his two guests had taken their refresh- ment, he conducted them about his house and garden ; and when he had shown them all the improvements he was making^ they took their leave. Captain King being desirous of avoiding the trouble and delay that might attend an application for passports, as well^ as of saving the unnecessary expense of hiring a sampane, which he was informed, amounted at least to twelve pounds sterling, had hitherto designed to go along with the supplies to Macao, in the country merchant's ship ; but receiving an invitation from two gentlemen, who had found means to procure passports for four, e accepted, together with Mr. Philips, their offer of places in a Chinese boat, and intrusted Mr. Lannyon with the superintend- ance oi the men and stores, which were to sail the following day. On Sunday the 26th, in the evening. Captain King took his leave of the supercargoes, after having returned thanks for their many favours ; among which must be mentioned a present of a considerable quantity of tea, for the use of the companies of both ships, and a copious collection of English periodical publications. The latter proved a valuable acquisition, as they not only served to beguile impatience in the prosecution of a tedious voyage homeward$, but also enabled the voyagers to return not whoUy unacquainted with what had been transacting in their native country during their absence. At one o'clock in the morning of the 17th, Messrs. King and Philips, and the two English gentlemen, quitted Canton, and about the same hour of the succeeding day, arrived at Macao, having passed down a channel situated to the west of that by which Cfaptain King had come up. During the absence of the |)arty from Macao, a brisk traffic hadbeen carried on with the Chinese for sea-otter skins, the value of which had augmented every day. One sailor disposed of his stock alone, for eight hundred dollars ; and a few of the best skins, which were clean, and had been carefully preserved, pro- duced a hundred and twenty dollars each. The total amount of the value, in goods and cash) that was obtained for the furs of both the vessels, was not less than two thousand pounds sterling ; and it was the general opinion, that at least two-thirds of the quantity originally procured from the Americans, were by this time spoiled and worn out, or had been bestowed as presents, and otherwise disposed of in Kamtschatka. If;, in addition to these "**5ir*-. K cook's third voyace, 1776 — 1780. 621 g and and lacao, at by 1 traffic value of his best int of lurs of Irling ; )f the this i, and tliese factS; it is considered that they at first collected the furs without having just ideas of their real value ; that most of them had been worn by the savages from whom they purchased them ; that little regard was afterwards shown to their preservation; that they were frequently made use of as bed-clothes, and like^vise for other purposes, dunng the cruise to the northward ; and that, in all probability, they never received the full value for them in China ; the benefits that might accrue from a voyage to that part of the American coast where they were obtained, undertaken with commercial views, appears of sufficient importance to claim the public attention. So great was the rage with which the seamen were possessed to return to Cook's River, and there procure another cargo of skins, by which they might be enabled to make their fortunes, that, at onetime, they were almost on the point of proceeding to a mutiny* And Captain King acknowledges, that he could not refrain from indulging himself in a project, which was first suggested to him by the disappointment met with in being compelled to leave the Japanese archipelago, as well as the northern coast of China unexplored, and he is of opinion, that this object may still be happily attained, by means of the East India Company, not only vvith trifling expense, but even with the prospect of very benefi- cial consequences. Captain King proposes, that the East India Company's China ships should, each, carry an additional number of men, making one hundred in the whole. Two vessels, one of two hundred tons and the other of a hundred and fifty, might, with proper uoticti (as Captain King was informed), be purchased at Canton ; and, as victualling is as cheap there as in Europe, he has calcu- lated that they might be completely equipped for sea, with one year's provision and pay, for the sum of six thousand pounds, including the purchase. The expense of the requisite articles for barter is very inconsiderable. Captain King particularly recommends that each of the ships should have a forge, five tons of unwrought iron, and a skilful smith, with an apprentice and journeyman, who might occasion- ally make such tools as the Indians should appear to have the greatest inclination for possessing. For though half a dozen of the finest skins obtained, were purchased with twelve large green glass beads, yet it is very certain, that the fancy of these people, for ornamental articles, is extremely c^apricious and vari- able ; and that the only sure commodity for their market is iron. To this might be added several bales of coarse woollen cloth, two or three barrels of glass and copper trinkeis, and a few gross of large pointed case-knives. The captain proposes two vessels, not only for the greater security of the voyagers^ but because single ships ought never, in his opinion, to be sent out for the purpose of discovery. For where risks are frequently to be run, and uncertain and dangerous 622 cook's third voyage, 1776—1780. experiments to be tried, it can by no means be expected that single ships should venture so far, as where some security is pro- vided against an unfortunate accident. A very ludicrous alteration took place in the dress of all the crew, in consequence of the barter which the Chinese had carried on for our sea-otter skins. On their arrival in the Typa, not only the sailors, but likewise the younger officers were extremelv ragged in their apparel ; for, as the voyage had now exceedea, almost by a year, the time it was at first supposed they should continue at sea, the far greater part of the original stock of Eu- ropean clothes had been long ago worn out, or repaired and patched up with skins, and the different manufactures they had met with in the course of the expedition. These were now mixed and eked out with the gayest silks and cottons that China could produce. Captain Lannyon arrived on the 30th, with the stores and pro- visions, which, without delay, were stowed in due proportion' on board of the two vessels. The following day, in compliance with an agreement made by Captain Gore, Captain King sent the Discovery's sheet anchor to the country ship, and in return, received the guns by which she before rode. While they remained in the Typa, Captain King was shown, in the garden of an English gentleman at Macao, the rock under which, according to the traditional accounts, Camoens, the cele- brated Portugueze poet, was accustomed to sit and compose his Lusiad. It is an arch of considerable height, consisting of one solid stone, and forming the entrance of a grotto dug out of the elevated ground behind it. Large spreading trees overshadow the rock, which commands a beautiful and extensive prospect of the sea, and the islands dispersed about it. On Tuesdajr tlie 11th of January, 1780, two sailors belonging to the Resolution went off with a six-oared cutter ; and though the most diligent search was made, both that and the succeeding day, no intelligence of her could be gained. It was imagined that these seamen had been seduced by the hopes of acquiring a fortune, if they should return to the fur islands. According to the observations that were made while the vessels lay here, the harbour of Macao is situated in the la*Hude of ti2 deg. 12 mill, north, and the longitude of 113 deg. 47 min. east; the anchoring-place in the Typa, in the latitude of 22 deg. 9 min. 20 sec. north, and the longitude of 113 deg. 48 min. 34 sec. east; and the variation of the compass was 19 min. west. It was high water in the Typa, on the full and change days, at a quarter after five o'clock, and in the harbour of Macao, at fifty minutes past five : the greatest rise was six feet one inch. The flood seemed to come from the south-east ; but on account of the numerous islands lying off the mouth of the river of Canton, we could not properly ascertain that point. The ships unmoored on the 12th of January, at twelve o'clock, jcted that ity is pro- 3f all the id carried 'ypa, not jxtremelv jxceeded, ey should }k ofEu- lired and they had ow mixed ina could 3 and pro- ortioJi' on mpliance V sent the n return, s shown, ck under the cele- ipose his ig of one ut of the srshadow )spect of Blonging though ceeding agined uiring a I vessels ftude of |n. east ; ]. 9 min. Ic. east; las high ler after les past Vemed lerous lid not fclock, cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. 623 and scaled the guns, which, on board the Discovery amounted a.t this time to ten ; so that her people, by means of four addi- tional ports, could fight seven on a side, lu the Resolution, likewise, the number of guns had been augmented from twelve to sixteen ; and, in each of the vessels, a strong barricade had been carried round the upper works, and all other precautions taken to give this inconsiderable force a respectable appearance. It was considered a duty to furnish these means of defence, though there was some reason to believe, that they had, in a great measure, been rendered superfluous by the generosity of our enemies. Captain King had been informed at Canton, that in the public prints, which had last arrived from Great Britain, mention was made of the instructions having been found on board all the French ships of war that had been taken in Europe, importing, that their commanders, if they should happen to fall in with the ships which had sailed from Eingland' under the com- mand of Captain Cook, should suffer them to proceed unmo- lested on their voyage. It was also reported that the American Congress had given similar orders to the vessels employed in their service. This intelligence being further confirmed by the private letters of some of the supercargoes. Captain Gore deemed it incumbent on him, in return for the liberal exceptions made in their favour, to refrain from embracing any opportuni- ties of capture which these might afford, and to maintain the strictest neutrality during the whole of his voyage. Having got under sail, about two o'clock in the afternoon, the Resolution saluted the fort of Macao with eleven guns ; and the salutation was returned with an equal number. The wind failing at five, the ship missed stays, and drove into shallow water : but an anchor being quickly carried out, she Mas hauled off" without sustaining any damage. Strong gales arose and continued for some days. On the 19th, about four in the afternoon, the island of Sapata was twelve or fourteen miles distant, bearing north-west by west. This island which is denominated Sapata from its resembling a shoe, in figure, is small, elevated, and unfertile. According to observations, it is situated in the latitude of 10 deg. 4 min. north, and the longitude of 109 deg. 10 min. east. The fury of the gale was now so much augmented, and the sea ran so high, that they were obhged to close-reef the toji- sails. The ships, during the three last days, had out-run their reckoning at the rate of twenty miles in a day ; and as this could not be wholly attributed to the effects of a following sea, they partly ascribed it to a current, which, according to Captain King's calculations, had set between the noon of the 19th, and the 20th, forty-two miles to the south-south-westward; and is taken into the account in fixing the position of Sapata. At four o'clock in the afternoon of the 20th, the extremes of Pulo Condore. and the islands that are situated off it, bore south- 634 cook's third .OYAOE, 1776 — 1780. east and south-west by west ; and the distance from the nearest islands was about two miles. They sailed to the northward of the islands^ and stood towards a harbour at the south-west end of Condore, which, having its entrance from the north-west, affords the best shelter during the north-east monsoon. At six o'clock anchored in six fathoms' water, with the best bower ; and the Discovery was kept steady with a stream anchor and cable towards the south-east. They had no sooner let go their anchors, than Captain Gore fired a gun, with a view of giving the inhabitants notice of their arrival, and drawing them towards the shore ; but it had no effect. Early the next morning parties were dispatched to cut wood, as Captain Gore's principal motive for touching at this island was to supply the ships with that article. During the after- noon, a sudden gust of wind broke the stream cable, by which the Discovery rode, and obliged her people to moor with the bower anchors. As none of the islanders had yet made their appearance, not- withstanding the firing of a second gun. Captain Gore desired Captain King to accompany him ashore in the morning of the 22nd ; they proceeded along the shore for the space of about two miles, when perceiving a road that led into a wood, they landed. Here Captain King left Captain Gore, and attended by a mid- shipman and four armed sailors, pursued the path which appear- ed to point directly across the island. Arriving through a wood in an open, level, sandy country, interspersed with groves of cabbage-palm and cocoa-nut trees, and cultivated spots of to- bacco and rice ; they descried two huts, situated on the extre- mity of the wood, to which they directed their march. Captain King and an old man in one of the huts quickly came to a perfect understanding. A few signs, particularly that significant one of shewing a handful of dollars, and then point- ing to a herd of buffaloes, as well as to the fowls that were run- ning in considerable numbers about the huts, left him under no doubts with respect to the real objects of the Captain's visit. He immediately pointed to the spot where the town was situated and made Captam King comprehend that, by repairing thither, all his necessities would be supplied. By this time two fugitives wno ran away on first seeing Cap- tain King, had returned, and one of them was ordered by the old man to conduct the party to the town, as soon as an obstacle, of which they were not aware, should be removed. On their first leaving the wood, a herd of buffaloes, consisting of at least twenty, ran towards them, tossing up their heads, snuflfing the air, and making a hideous roaring. They had followed the peo- ple to the huts, and now remained at a small distance drawn up in a body ; and the old man signified to Captain King, that it would be extremely dangerous for the party to move till the buffaloes had been driven into the woods ; but these animals had le nearest thward of west end Drth-west, I. At six >wer ; and and cable tain Gore ce of their t had no led to cut ig at this the after- by which r with the ince, not- •e desired ing of the about two ;y landed. by a mid- ih appear- h a wood groves of ots of to- he extre- quickly flarly that ;n point- lere run- lunder no in's visit. situated thither, Ing Cap- Id by the :)bstacle, |0n their at least Iffing the Ithe peo- Irawn up , that it till the lals had cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. 625 ecome so enraged at the sight of them, that this was not ac- omplished without some difficulty. The men, indeed, were nable to effect it ; but, to the surprise of Captain King and lis companions, they called some little boys to their assistance, vho speedily drove the animals out of sight. It afterwards ap- )earea that, in driving the buffaloes, and securing them, which s done by putting a rope through a hole made in their nostrils, was customary to employ little boys, who, at times when the nen would not venture to approach them, could stroke and landle them with impunity. After the buffaloes had been driven off, the party were con- lucted to the town, which was about a mile distant ; the road to t lying through a deep whitish sand. It stands near the sea-side, \t the bottom of a retired bay, which affords good shelter during he prevalence of the south-west monsoon. This town is composed of between twentv and thirty houses, ivhich are built contiguous to each other. Besides these, there ire six or seven others dispersed about the beach. The roof, he two ends, and the side that fronts the country, are construct- d of reeda in a neat manner. The opposite side, which faces he sea, is perfectly open ; but the inhabitants, by means of a dnd of screen made of bamboo, can exclude or admit as much of the air and sun as the^ think proper. There are likewise other large screens or partitions, wliich serve to divide, as occa- sion may require, the single room, of which the habitation, pro- perly speaking, consists, into separate apartments. Captain King and his party were conducted to the largest house in the town, belonging to their chief, or, as they called him, their captain, who was said to be absent. This house had room at each end, separated by a partition of reeds from the middle space, which was open on both sides, and provided with partition screens like the others. It had besides, a penthouse, projecting four or five feet beyond the roof, and running the whole length on each s.ide. At each end of the midddle room were hung some Chinese paintings, representing men and wo- men in ludicrous attitudes. In this apartment they were civilly desired to seat themselves on mats, and betel was presented to them. They walked about the town ; and did not forget to search, though in vain, for the remains of a fort, which had been built by our countrymen near the spot in 1702.* On returning to the Captain's house, they were sorry to find that he was not yet arrived; particularly as the time was almost elapsed which Captain Gore had fixed for their return to ♦ The English settled here in the year 1702, when the factory of Chusan, on the coast of China, was broke up, ami brought* with them some Macassar soUliers, who were liired to assist in building a fort; but the president not fulfilling his engacemeiit with them, they watched an opportunity, and one night murdered all the English in the fort. Those without the fort, hearing a noise, took the alarm, and ran to their boats, very narrowly escapingwith their lives, but not without much fatigue, hunger, and thirst, to theJo- hore dominions, where they were treated with Kreat humanity. Some of these after* wards went to form a settlement at Benjar Massean, on the island of Borneo. 2 F 28 J 6:26 cook's third voyage, 1776—1780. the boat. Captain King observed, when they were in the house before, and now remarked it the more, that a man who seemed to be the principal person of the company, frequently retired into one of the end rooms, and staid there some httle time, before he answered the questions that were put to him ; which led him to suspect that the captain was all tne time there, though, for reasons best known to himself, he did not choose to appear ; he was confirmed in this opinion, by being stopped as he was at tempting to go into the room. At length it clear'y appeared that his suspicions were well founded; for on preparing to depart, the person who had so often passed in and out, came from the room with a paper in his hand, and gave it to Captain King to read ; and he was not a little surprised to find it a sort of certili- cate in French, as follows : — PiEKRE Joseph George, Eveque d'Adran, Vicaire Apost.de Cochin China, &c. &c. Le petit Mandarin, porteur de cet ecrit, est veritablement Enroye de la cour a Pulo Condore, pour y attendre et recevoir tout vaisseau European qui auroit sa destination d'approcher ici, Le Capitaine, en consequence, pourroit se fi our pour conduire le vaisseau au port, ou pour faire passer les nouvelles qu'il pour- roit croire necessaire- Pierre Joseph George, ASai-Gon. 10 d'Aout, 1779. Eveque d'Adran. Captain King returned the paper, with many protestations of being the Mandarin's good friend, begging he might be inform- ed that he hoped he would do them the favour to visit the ships, that he might convince him of it. On returning. Captain Gore felt peculiar satisfaction at seeing them ; for as they had exceeded their time near an hour, he began to be alarmed for their safety, and was preparing to march after them. He and his party had, during their absence, been profitably employed in loading the boat with the cabbage-palm, which abounds m this bay. At two in the afternoon they joined the ships, and several of the shooting parlies returned about the same time from the woods, having had little success, though they saw a great variety of birds and animals. At five, a proa, with six men, rowed up to the ship, from the upper end of the harbour, and a decent-looking personage in- troduced himself to Captain Gore, with an ease and good breed- ing, which convinced him his time had been spent in other com- pany than what this island afforded. He brought with him the French paper above transcribed, and said he was the Mandarin | mentioned in it. He spoke a few Portuguese words, but as none of their men were acquainted with this language, they were obliged to hive recourse to a black man on board, who could speak the Malay, which is the general language of these islan- COOK*S THIRD VOYAGE, 1776—1780. x'r:? ders, and was understood by the Mandarin. After a llitle pre- vious conversation, he declared that he was a christian, and had been baptized by the name of Luco ; that he had been sent hither in August last, from Sai-gon, the capital of Cochin China, and had since waited in expectation of some French ships, which he was to pilot to a ssilfe port, not more than a day's sail hence, upon the coast of Cochin China. Captain Gore ac- quainted him, that we were not French, but English, and asked him, whether he did not know that those two nations were not at war with one another. He«nade answer in the affi'^.native ; but at the same time signified that it was indiil'erent to him to what nation the ships he was instructed to wait for belonged, pro- vided their object was to trade with the people of Cochin China. He now produced another paper which he requested them to peruse. This was a letter sealed up and addressed " To the Captains of any European ships that may touch at Condore." Though this letter was particularly intended for French vessels, yet as the direction comprehended all European captains, and as Luco was desirous of their reading it. Captain Gore broke the seal, and perceived that it was written by the same bishop who wrote the certificate. Its contents were to the following purport : — " That he had reason to expect, by some intelligence lately received from Europe, that a ship would in a short time come to Cochin China ; in consequence of which news, he had prevailed on the Court to dispatch a Mandarin (the bearer) to Pulo Condore, to wait his arrival : that if the vessel should touch there, the Captain might either send to him, by the bearer of this letter, an account of his having arrived, or trust himself to the direc- tion of the Mandarin, who would pilot the ship into a commo- dious port in Cochin China, not exceeding a day's sail from Pulo Condore : that if he should be inclined to continue at this island till the return of the messenger, proper interpreters should be sent back, and any other assistance, which might be pointed out in a letter, should be furnished : that there was no occasion for being more particular, of which the commander himself must be sensible." This epistle had the same date with the certificate, and was returned to Luco, without taking any copy of it. Captain Gore inquired, what supplies could be procured from this island. Luco replied, that there were two buffaloes belong- ing to him, which were at his service ; and that there were con- siderable numbers of those animals on the island, which might be purchased for four or five dollars each ; but Captain Gore thinking that sum very moderate, and appearing inclined to give a much greater for them, the price was speedily augmented to seven or eight dollars. On the 23rd, early in the morning, the launches of both the ships were dispatched to the town, to bring away the buffaloes 2 F 2 633 cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. which they had given orders for the purchase of; and eight of these animals were procured, and with difficulty got on board. A circumstance relative to these animals, which was considered as no less singular than their gentleness towards children, and seeming affection for them, was, that they had not been a whole day on board before they were as tame as possible. Captair King kept two of them, one of each sex, for a considerable time, which became great favourites with the seamen. Thinking that a breed of animals of such magnitude and strength, some of which weighed, when dressed, seven hundred pounds, would be an acquisition of some value, he intended to have brought them with him to England ; but that design was frustrated, by an in- curable hurt which one of them received at sea. Pulo Condore is elevated and mountainous, and is encompass- ed by several islands of inferior extent, some of which are about two miles distant, and others less than one mile. Its name sig- niiies the island of calabashes, being derived from two Malay words, Pulo implying an island, and Condore a calabash ; great quantities of which fruit are here produced.^ It is of a semi- circular form, and extends seven or eight miles from the most southerly point, in the direction of north-east. Its breadth, in anv part, does not exceed two miles. rhe anchorage in the harbour between Pulo Condore and Little Condore is very good ; the depth of water being from five to eleven fathoms ; but the bottom is soft and clayey. There is shallow water towards the bottom of the harbour, for the extent of about half a mile, beyond which the two islands make so near an approach to each other, that they leave only a passage at high-water for boats. The inhabitants of Pulo Condore, who are fugitives from Cochin-China and Cambodia, are not numerous. Tney are very swarthy in their complexion, of a short stature, and of a weak unhealthy aspect; and as far as we had an opportunity of judg- ing, of a gentle disposition. Tlie ships continued at this island till Friday the 28th of Ja- nuary ; hnd when the Mandarin took his leave. Captain Gore gave him, at his requ .^st, a letter of recommendation to the com- manders of any other vessels that might put in here. He also bestowed on him a handsome present, and gave him a letter for the Bishop of Adran, together with a telescope, which he de- sired might be presented to him as a compli.iient for the favours received, through his means, at Pulo Condore. The latitude of the harbour at Condore is 8 deg. 40 min. north ; its longitude, deduced from many lunar observations, 106 deg. 18 min. 46 sec. east; and the variation of the compass was 14 deg. west. The slups weighed anchor on the 28th, and had no sooner cleared the harbour, than they stood to the south-south-west, for Pulo Timoan. At noon, on the 1st day of February, the lati- cook's third voyage, 1776—1780. 629 tude was 1 deg. 30 min. north, and tlie longitude, deduced from a considerable number of lunar observations, was 105 deg. east. They stood to the south by east; and towards sun- set, the wea- ther being clear and fine, had a view of Pulo Pai\jang ; the body of the island bearing west-north-west, and the little islands, situ- ated to the soutli-east of it, west-half-south, at the distance of seven leagues. The latitude at the same time was 63 min. north. Nothing remarkable occurred during the voyage homeward until the 7th, when about four in the afternoon, they perceived two vessels in the Straits of Sunda ; one of which lay at anchor near the Mid-channel Island, the other nearer the shore of Java ; and as they did not know to what nation they might belong, thev thought proper to prepare their ships for action. At six o'clock they dropped their anchors in twenty-five fathoms' water, about four miles east by south from North Island. Here they remained tlie whole night, during which they had very heavy thunder and lightning to the north-west : the wind blowing in light breezes from the same quarter, attended with violent rain. On the 8th, about eight o'clock in the morning, they weighed and proceeded through the Straits of Sunda, the tide setting to- wards the south, as it had done all the preceding night. At ten, the wind failing, they anchored again in thirty-five fathoms ; an elevated island, or rather rock, named the Grand Toque, bear- ing south by east. Being, at that time, not above two miles from the ships before-mentioned, which now hoisted Dutch co- lours, Gaptam Gore sent a boat on board to procure intelligence. The rain still continued, accon panied with thunder and light- The boat returned easily in the afternoon, with information, that the larger of the two vessels was a Dutch East-Indiaman, bound for Europe ; and the other a packet from Batavia, with instructions for the several ships lying in the Straits. It is cus- tomaiy for the Dutch ships, when their cargoes are almost com- pleted, to quit Batavia, on account of its very unwholesome cli- mate, and repair to some of the more healthy islands in the Straits, where they wait for their dispatches, and the remainder of their lading. The Indiaman, notwithstanding this precaution, had lost four men since she had left Batavia, and had as many more whose lives were despaired of. She had remained here a fortnight, and was now on the point of proceeding to Cracatoa to take in water, having just received final orders by the packet. At seven o'clock the next morning, the ships weighed anchor, and steered to the south-westward through the straits, taking care to keep close in with the islands on the Sumatra shore, for tbn purpose of avoiding a rock near Mid-channel Island which was situated on our left. Between ten and eleven. Captain King was ordered by Cap- tain Gore to make sail towards a Dutch vessel that iiow came m sight to the southward^ and which he imagined was from Europe; 630 cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. and according to the nature of the Information that might be ob- tained from her, either join him at Cracatoa, where he designed to stop, in order to furnish the ships ; or to proceed to the south- eastern extremity of Prince's Island, and there provide a supply of water, and wait for him. The poverty of the ships with respect to cordage, was, on this occasion, very conspicuous; foi there was not, in the Disco- venr's store-room, a single coil of rope to fix to the buoy. The following morning, Mr. Williamson went on board the Dutch ship, and was informed, that she had been seven months from Europe, and three from the Cape of Good Hope ; that be- fore her departure, the kings of Prance and Spain had declared war against his Britannic Majesty ; iund that she had left Sir Ed- ward Hughes at the Cape with a squadron of men of war, and also a fleet of East-India ships. Mr. Williamson being, at the same time, assured, that the water of Cracatoa was extremely food, and that the Dutch always preferred it to that of Prince's sland. Captain King determined to rejoin the Resolution at the former place. He therefore, taking the advantage of a fair breeze, weighed, and made sail towards the island of Cracatoa, where he soon after perceived her at anchor ; but the tide setting forcibly against him, and the wind failing, he again thought pro- per to cast anchor at the distance of near two leagues from the Resolution, and immediately dispatched a boat on board, to communicate to Captain Gore the intelligence procured by Mr. Williamson. When the Resolution savv her consort preparing to come, she fired her guns, and displayed the signal for leadmg a-head, by hoisting an English jack at the ensign stafl*. Tliis was intended *:o prevent the Discovery's anchoring, on account of the foul ground, which the maps on board the Resolution placed in this situation. However, as Captain King met with none, but on tlie contrary, fouud a muddy bottom, and good anchoring ground at the depth of sixty fathoms, he remained fast till the return of the boat, which briught him orders to nroceed to Prince's Island the ensuing morning. He was at this time abou* two miles distant from the shore ; the Peak of Cracatoa bearing north-west by north. Prince's Island south-west by west, and Bantam Point east-north-east half east. The next morning, the 11th, at three o'clock. Captain King weighed anchor, and steered for Prince's Island ; but the wes- terly wind dying away, a breeze from the south-east succeeded, and the tide, at the same time, setting with great virco to the south-westward, he was prevented from fetching th<3 island, and obliged, at two in the afternoon, to anchor at the distance of nine or ten miles from it, in sixty-five fathoms' water, over a muddy bottom ; the elevated hill bearing south-west by south, aiid the peik of Cracatoa north L; east. Light airs and calms prevailed till six o'clock the following cook's THIRD VOYAGE, 1776 — 1780. 631 morning, at which time the Discovery weighed and made sail, though, in heaving the anchor out of the ground, the old mes- senger was twice broken, and also a new one. This, however, was entirely owing to the miserable state of the cordage, since the strain was not very considerable. The wind being fair, she came to an achor, at twelve o'clock, oif the south-eastern extremity of Prince's Island, ir. twenty-six fathoms' water, over a bottom of sand, at the distance of half a mile from the nearest part of the shore ; the east end of the island bearing north-north-east, the high peak north-west, half- west, and the most southerly point in view south-west by south. The Discovery had no sooner anchored, than Lieutenant Lan- nvon, who had been at this island in the year 1770, with Captaia (Took, was dispjitched in company with the master, to search for the watering place. The brook Irom which the Endeavour, ac- cording to the best of Mr. Lannyon's recollection, had been fur- nished, was now found extremely salt, They observed further inland a dry bed where the water had probably lodged in rainy seasons ; and another run about a cable's length below, supplied from a spacious pool, whose bottom, as "."ell as surface, was co- vered with dead leaves. This, though somewhat brackish, being far superior to the other, the Discovery's people began watering here early in the morning of the 13th, and finished that service the same day. The inhabitants, who came to them soon after they had an- chored, brought a considerable quantity of fowls and some tur- tles ; the last, however, were in general very small. During the night it --ained with great violence; and on Monday the 14tb, at day-break, the Resolution was seen to the north steering towards the island, and about two o'clock in the afternoon she cast an- chor close to the Discovery. As Captain Gore had not completed his stock of wnter at Cra- catoa, he sent his men ashore on the 15th, who repaired to the brook that was first mentioned, which was now become per- fectly sweet in consequence of the rain, and flowed in great abundance. This being a treasure too valuable to be disregard- ed- Captain King gave orders, that all the casks which the sea- men of his ship had before filled should be started, and replenish- ed with the Iresh water. This was accordingly performed by twelve o'clock the next day ; and in the evening tne decks were cleared, and both vessels prepared for sea. On the 19th, the ships bemg favoured by a north-westerly breeze, broke ground, to the extreme satisfaction of the crews, for the last time in the Straits of Sunda ; and on the 20th, h d totally lost sight of Prince's Island. The latitude of the anchoring place at Prince's Island is 60 deg. 36 min. 15 sec. south, and its longitude 105 deg. 17 min. 30 sec. east. The variation of the compass was 54 min. v/est ; and the mean of the thermometer 83 deg. C32 cook's third voyage, 1776—1780. The crews of the ships had began to experience, from the time of entering the Straits of Banca, the pernicious effects of this noxious chmate. Two of the Discovery's people became dangerously ill of malignant puirid fevers; which, however, were prevented from being communicated to others, by putting the patients apa^-t from the rest of the crew, in the most airy births. Many were attacked with disagreeable coughs ; several complained of violent pains in the head ; and even the most healthy persons felt a sensation of suffocating heat, accompanied with an extreme languor, and a total loss of appetite. They had, however, the inexpressible satisfaction of escaping from these destructive seas without the loss of a single life, partly owing to the vigorous health of the ships' companies, on their first arrival in these parts, as well as to the unremitting atien- tion, that was now become habitual in the men, and to tiie prudent and salutary regulations introduced among them by Captain Cook. At the time of departure from Prince's Island, arr r^ ' ; the whole passage thence to the Cape of Good Hope, tuo- people of the Resolution were in a far more sickly condition than those of the Discovery. This difference was partly ascribed by Captain Gore, 0:id probably not without good reason, to the Discovery's fire-place being between decks ; the heat and smoke of whit: , he was of opinion, contributed ^o mitigate the noxious effects of the damp nocturnal air. But Captain rLing was rather inclined to imagine, that his y >-ople escaped the flux by the precautions which were taken to prevent their receiving it from others. Captain Gore had hitherto designed to proceed directly to the island of St. Helena, without stopping at the Cape of Good Hope ; but as the Resolution's rudder had been for some time decaying, and on examination, was found to be in a dangerous state, he formed the resolution of repairing immediately to tht^ Cape, as being the most eligible place, both for providing a new main piece to the rudder, and for the recovery of his sick. From the 21 st day of March, when the latitude was 27 deg. 22 min. south, and the longitude 52 deg. 25 min. east, to the 5th of April, when they were in the latitude of 36 deg. 12 min. south, and the longitude of 22 deg. 7 min. east, they strongly felt the influence of the currents, which set towards the south-south- west, and south-west by west, sometimes at the rate of eighty miles in a day. On Monday the 10th, at break of day, the land again m?'M its appearance to the north-north-westward ; and in the course oi' the morning, a snow was seen bearing down to us. She proved to be an English East-India packet, which had quitted Table Bay three days before, and was now cruising with instructions for the China fleet, and other India ships. She informed them that Monsieur Trongoller's squadron, consisting of half a dozen COOK*S THIRD VOYAGE, 1776 — 1780. C33 sail, had left the Cape about three weeks before, and was gone to cruise off St. Helena, in search of our East-India fleet. From this intelligence they conjectured, that the five vessels seen steering to the eastward, probably belonged to the French squadron, which, in that case, had relinquished their cruise, and were perhaps proceeding to the island of Mauritius. Hav- ing communicated their conjectures to the packet, and like- wise mentioned the time they understood the China fleet was to sail from Canton, they left her, and continued their progress to- wards the Cape. In the evening. False Cape bore east-north- east, and the Gunner's Quoin north by east ; but they were pre- vented by the wind from getting into False Bay till the evening of the 12th, when they let go their anchors abreast of Simon's Bay : a strong current was setting to the west, round the Cape, which, for some time thej^ were barely able to stem, with a breeze that would have carried them four miles an hour. They weighed the next morning, and stood into Simon's Bay. At eight o'clock, came to anchor, at the distance of one-third of a mile from the nearest shore ; the south-east point of the bay bearing south by east, and Table Mountain north-east halt- north. The Resolution saluted the fort with eleven guns, and was complimented with an equal number in return. As soon as they had cast anchor, Mr. Brandt, the governor of this place, favoured them with a visit. This gentleman had the highest regard and esteem for Captain Cook, who had been his constant guest whenever he had touched at the Cape ; and though he had, some time before, received intelligence of his unfortu- nate catastrophe, he was extremely affected at the sight of the vessels returning without their old commander. He was greatly surprised at seeing most of our people in so robust and healthy a state, as the Dutch ship which had quitted Macao at the time of the ships arrival there, and had afterwards stopped at the Cape, reported, that they were in a most wretched condition, there being only fourteen persons left on board the Resolution, and ijcven in the Discovery. It is difficult to conceive what motive could have induced these people to propagate so wanton and in- famous a falsehood. .iptain King, on Saturday the 15th, accompanied Captain Gore to Cape Town ; and the following morning, they waited on Baron Plettenberg, the governor, who received them vsdth every possible demonstration of civility and politeness. He en- tertained a ^reat personal affection for Captain Cook, and pro- fessed the highest admiration of his character ; and on hearing the recital of his misfortune, broke forth into many expressions of unaffected sorrow. In one of the principal apartments of the Baron's house, he showed our gentlemen two pictures, one of De Ruyter, the other of Van Trump, with a vacant space left between them, which, he said, he intended to fill up with a portrait of Captain Cook ; and for this purpose, he requested (;34 cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780, that they would endeavour to procure one for him, at any price, on their arrival in Great Britain. The Governor afterwards informed them, that all the nations then at war with England had issued orders to their respective cruisers, to suffer us to pass without molestation. With regard to the French, there was sufficient reason to consider this as true ; for Mr. Brandt had already delivered to Captain Gore a letter from Mr. Stephens, secretary of the Admiralty, enclosing a tran- script of Monsieur de Sartine's orders, taken on board the Licorne. The affair, however, with respect to the Americans, still rested on report : but, as to the Spaniards, Baron Plettenberg assured the gentlemen, that he had been expressly told by the Captain of a Spanish vessel which had stopped at the_ Cape, that he, and all the officers of his nation, had received injunctions of the same nature. By tl r ^ ' ssurances. Captain Gore was confirmed in his reso- lution of itaining, on his part, a neutral conduct ; in conse- quence of wi.xh, when, upon the arrival of the Sibyl, to convoy the East-Indiaman home, it was proposed to him to attend them on their voyage, he thought proper to decline an offer, the acceptance of which might perhaps have brought him into a very embar- rassing dilemma, in case of our falling in with any of the ships belonging to our enemies. During the continuance at the Cape, our men met with the most friendly treatment, not only from the Governor, but also from the other principal persons of the place, as well Africans as Europeans. On their first arrival. Colonel Gordon, the com- mander of the Dutch troops, was absent on a journey into the inland parts of Africa, but returned before they left the Cape. Upon this occasion he had penetrated further into the interior parts of the country than any preceding traveller, and made con- siderable additions to the exceUent collection of natural curiosities with which he has contributed to enrich the Museum of the Prince of Orange, *' Indeed his long residence at the Cape, and the great assistance he has derived from his rank and station there, ^'oined to an ardent desire of knowledge, and an active, indefatigable spirit, have enabled him to gain a more perfect knowledge of this part of Africa than any other person has had an opportunity of acquiring ; and it is with pleasure we congra- tulate the public on his intentions of publishing a narrative of his travels." False Bay lies to the eastward of the Cape of Good Hope, and is frequented by vessels during the prevalence of^ the north- westerly winds, which begin to excite their influence in May, and render it dangerous to remain in Table Bay. It is terminated to the eastward by False Cape, and to the westward by the Cape of Grood Hope. It is eighteen miles wide at its entrance, and the two Capes bear due east and west from each other. At the distance of eleven or twelve miles from the Cape of cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. 6:i5 Good Hope, on the western side, is situated Simon's Bay, the only commodious station for shipping to be in ; for though the road without it affords tolerable anchorage, it is rather too open, and not well adapted for procuring necessaries, the town being small, and supplied with provisions from Cape Town, which stands at the distance of about twenty-four miles. To the north- north-eastward of Simon's Bay, there are some others, from which, however, it may with ease be distinguished, by a remarkable sandy way to the north of the town, which forms a conspicuous object. In steering for the harbour, along the western shore, there is a small flat rock, known by the name of Noah's ark ; and about a mile to the northeastward of it there are several others, which are denominated the Roman Rocks. These are a mile and a half distant from the anchoring-place; and eitlier to the north- ward of them^ or between them, there is a safe passage into the Bay. When the north-westerly gales are set in, the navigator, by the following bearings, will be directed to a secure and convenient station ; Noah's Ark, south 51 deg. east, and at the centre of the hospital south 53 deg. west, in seven fathoms' water. But if the south-easterly winds should not have ceased blowing, it is more advisable to remain further out in eight or nine fathoms. The bottom consists of sand, and the anchor^ before they get hold, settle considerably. The land, on the northern side of the bay, is low and sandy ; but the eastern side is very elevated. About two leagues to the eastward of Noah's Ark stands Seal Island, whose southern part is said to be dangerous, and not to be approached, with safety, nearer than in twenty-two fathoms' water. There are many sunken rocks off the Cape of Good Hope, some of which made their appearance at low-water; and others constantly have breakers on them. The anchoring place in Simon's Bay is situate in the latitude of 34 deg. 20 min. south, by observation ; and its longitude is 18 deg. 29 min. east. It was high-water, on the full and change days, at 5 hours 55 min. apparent time. The tide rose and fell five feet five inches ; and, at the neap tides, the water rose only four feet one inch. According to the observations made by Captain King and Mr. Bailey, on the 11th of April, when the Cape of Good Hope bore due west, its latitude is 34 deg. 28 min. south, which is 4 min. to the northward of the Abbe de laCaille's position of it. Having provided the necessary quantity of naval stores and completed their victualling, they quitted Simon's Bay on Tuesday the 9th of May. On the 14th of the same month got into the south-east trade wind, and stood to the west of the islands of Ascension and St. Helena. On Wednesday the Slst, were in the latitude of 12 deg. 41 min. south, and the longitude of 15 deg. 40 min, west. On the 12th of June they passed the equinoctial 636 cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. line for the fourth time during the vo jage, in the longitude of 26 deg. 16 uiin. west. They now perceived the effects of a current setting north by east, at the rate of half a mile in an hour. After continuing in the same direction till the middle of July, it began to set a little to the southward of the west. On Saturday, the 12th of August, they descried the western coast of Ireland, and endeavoured to get into Port Galway, whence Captain Gore intended to have dispatched the journals and charts of their voyage to London. This attempt, however, proved ineffectual ; and they were com- pelled by violent southerly winds, to stand to the north. Captain Gore's next design was to put into Lough Swilly, but the wind continuing in the same quarter, they steered to the northward of the island of Lewis ; and on Tuesday, the 22nd of of August, about eleven o'clock in the forenoon, both their vessels anchored at Stromness. From this place Captain King was sent by Captain Gore, to inform the Lords of the Admiralty of their arrival; and, on Wednesday, the 4th of October, the ships reached the Nore in safety, after an absence of four years, two months, and twenty two days. When Captain King quitted the Discovery at Stromness, he had the satisfaction of leaving the whole ship's company in per- fect health ; and, at the same time, the number of sick persons on board the Resolution did not exceed two or three, only one of tliem was incapable of service. In the whole course of the voyage the Resolution lost no more than five men by sickness, three of whom, at the time of their departure from Great Britain, were in a precarious state of health : the Discovery did not lose one indi- vidual. A strict attention to the excellent regulations estJiuiished by Captain Cook, may justly be deemed the chief cause, under the blessing of Divine Providence, of this extraordinary success. But, notwithstanding these salutary precautions, they might, perhaps, in the end, have felt the pernicious effects of salt provi sions. had they not availed themselves of every substitute which their situation, at different times, afforded them. As these were sometimes extremely nauseous, frequently consisting of articles which our people had not been accustomed to consider as food for men, it became necessary, for the purpose of removing their prejudices, and conquering their disgusts, to employ the united aid of persuasion, example, and authority.^ Portable soup and sour krout Were the preventives principally depended on. They had ao ojjportunity of trying the effects of the antiscorbutic remedies, with which they were plentifully furnished, as there did not appear, during the whole voyage, the slightest symptoms of the scurvy among the crew of either ship. The malt and hops had likewise been kept as a resource in case of sickness ; but, on being examined at the Cape of Good Hope, they were found totally spoiled. About the same time they opened some casks of oatmeal, pease, groats, flour, biscuit cook's third voyage, 1776 — 1780. 637 of 26 and malt, which, for the sake of experiment, they had put up in small casks, lined with tin-frail ; and all the articles, exceot the Eease^ were found in a much better condition than could have een expected in the ordinary mode of package. On this occasion we cannot omit recommending to the consi- deration of government, the necessity of furnishing such of hw Majesty's ships as maybe exposed to the influence of unhealthy climates, with a siifHcieiit quantity of Peruvian bark. It fortu- nately happened in the Discovery, that only one of the men who were attached with fevers in the Straits of Sunda stood in need of this valuable medicine ; for the whole quantity that surgeons are accustomed to carry out in such vessels as those was consumed by him alone. If more persons had been affected in the same manner, it is probable that they would all have perished for want of tlie only remedy that could effectually have relieved them. We shall conclude our narrative of this voyage with the men- tion of a circumstance, which, if we consider its long duration, and the nature of the service in which the ships were em- ployed, seems scarcely less remarkable than the uncommon healthiness of the ship's companies. This was, that the two vessels never lost sight of each other for a whole day, except on two occasions : the first of which was in consequence of an accident that befel the Discovery oflf the coast of Owhyhee ; and the second was owing to the fogs they met with at the entrance of the bay of Awatska. As this share of merit belongs almost entirely to the inferior offi(;ers, it furnishes a striking proof of their skill and vigilance. THE EN1|» Priiutd by J. Limbirdt 143, Strand.