-.*%, ^, ^, IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) in 1^ 1^ I I.I 1.25 2.5 ■tt lU 12.2 1.8 U Ui U_ IIIIII.6 llill: &^ y /: '/ >^ fd «■ \\ « CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CIHM/ICMH Collection de microfiches. Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions Institut Canadian de microreproductions historiques 1980 Technical Notes / Notes techniques The Institute has attempted to obtain the best original copy available for filming. Physical features of this copy which may alter any of the images in the reproduction are checked below. L'Institut a microfilmd ie nieilleur exemplaire qu'il iui a 6t6 possible de se procurer. Certains d6fauts susceptibles de nuire A la quality de la reproduction sont notis ci-dessous. D D Coloured covers/ Couvertures de couleur Coloured maps/ Cartes g6ographiques en couleur Pages discoloured, stained or foxed/ Pages d6color6es, tachetdes ou piquies D Coloured pages/ Pages de couleur Coloured plates/ Planches en couleur j~T| Show through/ Transparence S Tight binding (may cause shadows or distortion along interior margin)/ Reiiure serrd (peut causer de i'ombre ou de ia distortion I9 long de ia marge intdrieure) Q Pages damaged/ Pages endommagdes D Additional comments/ Commentaires suppldmentaires Bibliographic Notes / Notes bibliographiques D D Only edition available/ Seuie Edition disponible Bound with other material/ Reii6 avec d'autres documents □ Pagination incorrect/ Erreurs de pagination Pages missing/ Des pages msnquent n Cover title missing/ Le titre de couverture manque Plates missing/ Des planches manquent D Maps missing/ Des cartes gdographiques manquent n Additional comments/ Commentaires suppl4kmentalres The images appearing here are the best quaiity possible considering the condition and legibility of the original copy and in keeping with the filming contract specifications. Les images SMivantes ont 6t6 reproduites avec le plus grand soin. compte tenu de la condition et de la nettet6 de rexemplaire film6, et en conformity avec les conditions du contrat de filmage. The last recorded frame on each microfiche shell contain the symbol —^-(meaning CONTINUED"), or the symbol V (meaning "END"), whichever applies. Un des symboles suivants apparaTtra sur la der- nidre image de cheque microfiche, selon le cas: le symbols — ► signifie "A SUIVRE", le symbole V signifie "FIN". The original copy was borrowed from, and filmed with, the kind consent of "^he following institution: , .. Library, Department of National Defence L'exemplaire film6 fut reproduit grfice d la g6n4rosit6 de l'6tablissement prAteur suivant : „.^.. ^, Bibliotheque, MInistire de la Defense Nationale Maps or plates too large to be entirely included in one exposure are filmed beginning in the upper left hand corner, left to right and top to bottom, as many frames as required. The following diagrams illustrate the method: Les cartes ou les planches trop grande^^ pour dtre reproduites en un seul cliche sont filmies d partir de Tangle sup6rieure gauche, de gauche d droite et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'images ndcessaire. Le diagramme suivant iilustre la mdthode : 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 ' 5 6 ROUGH NOTES BY AN OLD SOLDIER. mmm r ^«w. i ^aH ^u^v^l. -y — . ""«■ ■"■i» nv^iiiiai p ■"'^^HWT^ Br«\t.&r. ■ 'I.*.' ////■ i' '. -■ !• ;.'.T.!V. ..lUH / ROUGH NOTES 11 Y AN OLD SOLDIER DUIUNG FIFTY YEARS' SERVICE, FROM ENSIGN G. B. TO MAJOR-GENERAL, C.B. C V I ^ Wan plods his way through tliorns to a^hen] LONDON : DAY AND SON, LIMITED, r., GATE STREET, LI NCOLN'S-INN FIELDS, W. C 1867. DEDICATION. Cfl i&t fouitj ©fSttrs of i&t Iritis^ ^mu. ^^icA; to your trade, young Gentlemen, TJie wheel of fortune is always going round, and every spoJce comes %qi;permost in its turn. I was Sixteen years a Sub. G. B. ^i (I I PREFACE. -•o»- T FOUND my bundle of Notes, closed up in my -*- knapsack, so much defaced and worn by long travel, that I was very much inclined to throw them all into the fire, when I was stopped one day by an old camaradaf who persuaded me to link them together and send them to the press. I protested, having no abihty for book-making, not being an enthusiast or v< novel reader, and to come out as an Author appeared to me to be worse than to hear the " tir-whit " of a shell from the Bedan into one's tent. " Never mind," he said, *' try your luck ; don't say too much about the R— T— ; the truth is not always to be told, you know, and as for the critics and reviewers, you need not fear them : they are con- siderate and kind to old soldiers, who sit down in the evening of life by the fireside, without pretension, ostentation, or dash, to talk of old campaigns, aud fight their battles o'er again." These few words gave me some little encouragement. I condensed my bundle of notes into the smallest space I could, and they will be found in the following chapters without any varnish ! G. B. f I, i CONTENTS. -•«•- CHAPTER I. t'arewell to Home. — The Route. — Marching and Dining. — A Serious Loss. — The Lazy Lieutenant. — Arrival in Lisbon. — Paterfamilias. — My Billet. — The Route, March, Arrival. — How we Fared. — Subaltern Life. — Roughing it. — In Pursuit. — First Blood. — Victory page CHAPTER II. After the Battle. — Albuquerque. — Merida. — Ciudad Rodrigo. — The Assault. — Bune Soup. — Horrors of War. — Badajos. — Preparations ff^gc 17 CHAPTER III. The Assault. — Fall of Badajos. — After the Assault. — The Sacking of Badajos. — Neglect of the British Government. — Departure from Badajos. — Discipline. — Jollifications. — Castle Mirabete. — Forts Napoleon and Almaraz. — Disappointment. — Chivalry. — Flat Burglary. — Quill to the Rescue. — Leonora. — Estramos. — To Lisbon on Leave luigo 20 CHAPTER ly. Better Times. — A Night Adventure. — Lisbon. — Caveat Emptor. — Military Discipline. — Toledo. — Salamanca. — Heroic Conduct. — After the Battle. — Yepes. — The Route. — The Parting. — A Surprise. — A Retreat. — Madrid page 50 CHAPTER V. The Retreat. — Ready for Action. — Adventures. — A Surprise. — — Hard Lines. — A Godsend. — Female Insubordination. — Mrs. Skiddy. — Short Commons. — Fever. — Theatricals. — 1813. — Campaigning. — Dostruction of Burgos. — The British Soldier. page 66 CONTENTS. CHAPTEE VI. Battle of Vittoria. — Victory. — The Pursuit. — The King in Danger. — A Night Auction. — Narrow Escapes. — Curious Booty. — The Wounded. — Maurice Quill. — Masterman. — Sir William Stewart. — The Basque Provinces. — The Alarm. — Warm Work. — The Wounded -page 85 CHAPTEE VII. The Valley of Bastan. — Sharp Affair. — Sauve qui peut. — A Eide for a Doctor. — Wellington and Soult. — Affair before Pampe- luna. — The Colonel of the 34th. — A Chance Lost. — Eon- cesvales. — Foraging. — The Lost Sentries. — Unrequited Bravery •i".?^ i02 CHAPTEE VIII. Ghostly Quarters. — Hard Lines. — A Snow-storm. — Corporal Punishment. — Kindness is Better. — Tom Eccles. — Nivelle. — Victory. — Individual Bravery. — Spanish Ladies. — A Bull- fight. — Short Commons. — Maurice Quill's Wager. — Maurice wins. — The French fraternize. — How we got Cognac. — Paddy MulJoon. — Passage of the Nive. — Bayonne .2)age 116 CHAPTEE IX. Soult's Tactics. — Villefranche. — St.-Pierre. — A Bayonet-charge. — The Gordon Highlanders. — The Wounded. — After the Battle. — Vieux Monguere. — Spanish Ingratitude. — Orthes. — Soult's Efibrt. — Its Failure page 136 j CHAPTEE X. ||\ The Duke of Eichmond. — Discipline. — Combat at Aire. — Victory. "^ —Vic Bigorc.— A Turn of Luck.— Tarbes.— The Combat.— Major Dogherty. — The Throe Generals. — Adjutant Peckett. • — A Cheated Stomach. — Toulouse. — Deserters. — Fighting with Stones par/ii 149 CHAPTEE XI. Battle of Toulouse.— The Eetreat of Ten Thousand.— The First ■: Act. — Progress of the Battle. — A Bird's-eye View. — Entry ^ into Toulouse. — Peace Prospects. — "The Duke." — The Duke '^ d'AngouWme. — Eoute for Bordeaux. — My Billet. — Eather in j Luck. — Freemasonry. — Private Hostilities. — The Duello. — I Home, Sweet Home. — Mrs. Commissary-General Skiddy. ! j['«i7c 1G4 CONTENTS. XI CHAPTER XII. Adieu to Bordeaux. — On Board Ship. — Welcome Home. — Hero- Worship. — The Huntingdon Peerage. — Life in Ireland. — Sounds of War. — The Castle Guard in Dublin. --Tipperary.— Peace. — Life in Scotland. — A Prize in Life. — The Baby Major. — The 45th page 184 CHAPTER XIII. At Sea. — Mutineers. — Breakers ahead. — Shark-fishing. — Crossing the Line. — The Trade Winds. — Trincomalee. — Its Scenery. — Landing at Madras, — Fort St. George. — A Journey. — Palankeen-bearers. — Nega])atam, — The Cobra. — Back to Madras. — The Route. — My Wife's Diary .page 198 CHAPTER XIV. Embarkation. — At Sea. — Rangoon. — The Great Dagon. — The Bur- mese. — Goose Eggs. — Burmese War-boats. — Tiger-traps. — Palmyra Toddy. — Sandford and Bennett. — The Rhahams. — Sagacious Elephants. — Tactics. — Mai du Pays .page 217 CHAPTER XV. Bandicoots. — Celebrated Mosquitoes. — Ants. — Rat-catching. — My Cuisine. — Burmese Customs. — The Great Bell, — Burmese Law. — Mandamar. — Jungle Fever. — Cholera. — Burmese Honey. — The Climate, — Burning a Priest. — I Exchange. — A Thunder- storm. — Adieu to Ava .page 233 CHAPTER XVI. At Sea. — Arrival at Madras.— A Severe Tea. — Summary Punish- ment, — The Bag of Rupees, — March to Bangalore. — A Curious Idol. — Damul-Wallagahnagur, — Arcot-Vollore. — Pallicondah. — The Moharum Feast. — The Ghauts. — Rice-fielda.— A Sur- prise. — Arrival at Bangalore -page 250 CHAPTER XVII. Bangalore. — Its Garrison. — Anuisements. — The Cobra, — Its Bite cured. — A Snake-charmer. — Devotees. — Sir Thomas Munro. — En Route encore. — Brahmin Women. — Naikanairry. — My Friend the Colonel. — Guzaron. — Vellore. — Mauvais Temps, — Affliction page 2G7 J XU CONTENTS. CHAPTER XVIII. An Old Friend. — Affair with a Tiger. — At Sea. — Diamond Harbonr. — Land again. — Calcutta, — Our Menage.— Calcutta. — Fort William. — Barrackpore. — Serampore. — Kidderpore Orphan School. — A Nautch. — An Apostate — A Christian Prayer. — A Fakeer .page 283 CHAPTER XIX. Mortality in India. — Mirzapore. — The Races. — Stewart's Museum. — Hindoo Deities. — Ceremonies. — Beast-worship. — Summary Punishment. — A Monster Banyan. — Converts, — Leave Cal- cutta. — A Night on the River. — En Voyage. — Masulipatam. — On Shore. — Football.— Madras .jmgo 300 CHAPTER XX. St. Thomas's Mount. — Wallajabad. — Conjeveram. — Wild Fowl. — Arcot. — Chittoor. — Palamanair. — Moolwaugum. — The Burial- ground. — En Route. — Arrive at Bangalore .j^ar/e 318 CHAPTER XXI. An O'er-true Tale. — Murder.— Remorse. — Court-Martial. — The Defence. — The Sentence.— The Criminal. — Repentance. — The Scaffold. — The Execution. — " Otium cum." — A Youthful Debutante. — Bal Costume. — A Durbar. — The Rajah of Mysore. — Fighting Men. — Their Presents. — A Courtier Elephant. — Cheetah-huuting. — The Death ;page 329 CHAPTER XXII. The Rajah's Carriage. — A Procession. — Seringnpatam. — Tippoo's Tomb. — Hyder's Palace. — A Pagoda, — The Dussorah Festival. — A Drunken Donkey. — Novel Tiger -hunting. — The Rajah's Review. — A Durbar. — Falls of the Cauvery. — On the March. — A Canny Elephant. — Fine Waterfalls. — 'Ware Tiger. — Buried Alive.— Closepet.— Welcome Home .jpok/e 349 ROUGH NOTES BY AN OLD SOLDIER. "Man plods his way through Thorns to Ashes." OHAPTEE I. Farewell to Home. — The Route. — Marching and Dining. — A Serious Loss.— The Lazy Lieutenant. — Arrival m Lisbon. — Paterfamiliius. —My Billet. — The Route, March, Arrival. — How we fared. — Subaltern Life. — Roughing it. — In Pursuit. — First Blood. — Victory. THE London Gazette of tlie llth Marcli, 1811, proclaimed "George Bell, gentleman, to be Ensign in the 34tli Regiment of Foot, by commciud of His Majesty King George the Third.^' On the llth of March I was at a public school, when some one came and gave me the above information. So soon as I collected my senses, I jumped up, broke my way into the presence of the great Dominie ; bid him a hasty farewell, shook hands with my class companions, and boltjd out of the house, no one seeming to know what it was all about until I v^as clear away, and sent back a newspaper with the Gazette, which fully explained my hasty retreat from thraldom. Six days after the llth of March I was just seventeen years of ago, an independent military gentleman, let loose upon the world with the liberal pay of hs. 3rZ. a day, less income-tax, which has never been increased from that day to this. I had an official letter very soon to join my regimental depot without delay, signed Harry Calvert, AJjutant-Oeneral. So I went off that night by the mail a hundred miles' journey, to bid them farewell at the beautiful paternal resi- dence on the banks of Lough Erin. Here I only remained Z FAEEWELL TO HOME. two days : there was weeping and lamentation over-nnicli at my departure ; but it was the tender custom in Ireland long ago. The family circle saw me off, at the end of the long avenue, all pretty cheery until we heard the mail-coach horn in tho distance, when the ladies began a fresh lamentation, which set me going until I nearly cried my eyes out. I was now fairly off, and with my pocket full of money, so I began to brighten up by the time tho coach stopped for the night, for this hundred-mile journey occupied two days. This royal mail-coach was horsed with a pair of old Irish hunters, carried four passengers inside, and two guards in royal livery behind, with a box of blunderbuss firearms and pistols, to protect themselves and the mail-bags; tho roads in those days being swarmed by highwaymen. We had no adventure. After being well furnished with a good kit, and supplied liberally with everything I required, I sailed in the mail-packet for Liverpool, which I reached tho third day, after a stormy voyage. It was then the custom for each passenger to carry his own prog ; my hamper never was opened, I was so desperately sea-sick, consequently the steward came in for nearly all the good things, and might have set up a cookshop for many a day afterwards. Safely on English ground for the first time, I enjoyed myself for a couple of days, and then took coach with four spanking horses for Beverley, in Yorkshire, where I joined, my depot, and went to drill under the command of an old sergeant, who used to say tha\ 20 ALBUQUERQUE. and the clever surgeon, Luscombe ; Sullivan and Eccles, bravest of the brave; Norton, Day, cum multis alas. I love to record their honoured names, being myself, I believe, the last man of that generation that I know of living, unless it be Captain Norton, the inventor of an exploding shell, about which he hoped to gain a name and some emolument, after many years of incessant toil. Not being in the dress circle, I believe all his labour was in vain, and his talent pooh- poohed. At Albuquerque we got the English newspapers with an account of our exploit at Arroyo-Molino, and wasn't I proud to see Sir Rowland Hill's despatch in print, with the few words, which never escaped my memory, viz., " where the 28th and 34th Regiments eminently distinguished themselves " ? Albuquerque was a very old town, at one period of some importance. It was walled all round, and had a castle of defence, crumbling away like the old walls. In the castle, which stood high, there was a square tower standing still much higher, commanding a most extensive view of the country on towards Badajos (pronounced by the Spaniards Badahos). On the top of this tower there was always an officer on the look-out, from before daylight until ten o'clock, with telescope in hand, to watch any movement of the French coming over the plain, a duty not very agreeable to early risers ! On many a cold morning I have got up to take this duty for one of my own brother officers better off and more provident than myself, with the understanding that I was to breakfast with him when relieved ; for the truth may be told, I had not myself a break- fast to eat, and really nothing at this time but my one scanty meal per diem, and that was my bit of ration beef, which I fried in a pan with water for want of a spoonful of oil. My money was all expended long ago. Our pay was months in arroar. My time was not come to draw for my home allowance, and I would not ask for a penny in advance, although I knew it would have been cheerfully granted. About this time, Drouet came down to forage the province with 14,000 men, and to throw supplies into Badajos. Wo left our dry quarters, and sallied forth to meet him, Sir Rowland t MERIUA. 21 Hill intending tc^ give liim battle. On our way to Merida we fell in with a battalion of Freucli infantry in a fog, who were out foraging. We could see nothing. They ft] t our advance guard as wo came up, and left sonic few wounded prisoners, who told the tale. As the fog rose, we saw them retiring over the plain in the greatest order. Having a good start of us, our cavalry were called to the front, and slipped at them; the French retiring double quick in quarter-distance column. On the near approach of the 14th Light Dragoons, they formed square, and waited the charge, which was repulsed by a volley, leaving some empty saddles. While the cavalry were re-forming for another charge, the French again formed quarter-distance column, and went off at the double. The litli went at them again on two sides ; for they whipped into square in a moment, but as unsuccessfully as at first. This play was repeated three times without any success, when our guns came up from the rear, unlimbered, and sent a few round shot into their ranks, which left them short forty men ; but the rest got clear away into Merida. I don^t remember our loss ; but I saw many of our men and horses killed and wounded as we passed by. Nevoux, which was the name of the brave French colonel who commanded, was decorated with the Legion of Honour for his gallant conduct on this occasion. Honourable retreats in war, they say, are in no ways inferior to brave charges, as having less of fortune, more of discipline, and as much of valour. We marched on and took possession of Merida, driving the chief and head-quarters of his army out of this fine old town. It stands on the Guadiana, had a abridge of sixty arches, said to have been built by the Romans, as well as the town, which was partly of very great antiquity. Hero we were quartered for some time amongst pretty girls and burly priests, who kept a sharp look-out upon their intimacy with British heretics. This was all jealousy ; for I think I had cause to see and believe they were the most immoral and irreligious part of the community. Lazy, indolent, useless cowls, and their name was Legion. The sefioritas were generally very pretty, very graceful, ladylike, and extremely correct in manner, morals, 22 CIUDAD RODRIGO. and conduct, although at times there was aiv elopement with some wild handsome young fellow who know the soft language, which cannot bo surpassed in love-making. How many of those poor girls were forced into convents by the aid and advice of crafty priests, where their young hearts were blighted for ever ! I often had conversations with them through their iron grating, hearing them wailing and lamenting their unhappy fate, and pining for liberty. *' We are here,^' they would say, " like birds with clippedwings, powerless;" then a little noise perhaps, and they would fly like a chamois, with an " adcos, adeos, caballero. Otro tiempo." Monsieur le General Drouet gave us a great deal of bother at this time, marching and counter-marching across that great plain to Almandraleho, a little town some five leagues distant. There he assembled his army, took up position, inviting a quarrel, but always declining to fight. When we got within reach of a nine-pounder gun, he was off in retreat, leaving no chance of giving him a checkmate. Here we halted, generally for a couple of days, and returned to Merida. This game was played so often, I was thoroughly acquainted with every big tuft of grass and swampy pool over that dreary plain ploughed up by wheels, cavalry, and baggage animals. The object of the French was to harass our troops as much as possible, and to keep us away from Ciudad Rodrigo, a great fortress, which he knew would be attacked by Wellington before we could advance up country. Settled down once more in Merida, /)?'o iem., we tried to be happy. I was now pretty well broken into harness, learned something, and began to like my trade, seeing all my comrades as jolly and fearless as if they were foxhunters. We were soon, however, on the trot again. Our division was separated, and placed in different towns and villages near Rodrigo. In January, 1812, Wellington (as I may now call him with great respect) laid siege to Ciudad Rodrigo (city of Rodrigo), and now for the horrors of a siege, and the double horrors of another near at hand; this one lasted twelve days, the city being stormed on the 19th January. Wellington's morning order on that day was laconic and to the point, understood, THE ASSAULT. 28 and nobly responded to ; it was this, " Ciudad Ilodrigo must be stormed this evening." All the troops reached their different posts after dark ; the storming-parties — volunteers and forlorn-hope — foremost ; as they advanced, they were ravaged with a tempest of grape from the ramparts, which staggered them; however, none would go buck, although none could get forward, for men and officers falling fast from the withering and destructive fire choked up the passage, which every minute was raked with grapeshot. Thus striving, and trampling- alike upon the dead and the wounded, these brave fellows maintained the combat. The stormers of another division, who had 300 yards of ground to clear, with extraordinary swiftness dashed along to the glacis, jumped into the ditch, eleven feet deep, and rushed on under a smashing discharge of musketry and grape, gaining the ascent ; the foremost were blown to shatters, their bodies and brains plashing amongst their daring comrades behind, wliich only stimulated their determined exertions and doubled their strength. Supports came forward, all the officers simultaneously sprang to the front, when the herculean effort was renewed with a thrilling cheer, and the entrance was gained. The fighting was continued with fury in the streets, until the French were all killed, wounded, or prisoners ; the town was fired in many places; many were killed in the market-place ; our soldiers were desperate, really mad with excitement, furious ; intokication, disorder, and tumult every- where prevailed; discipline and restraint disregarded, the troops committed most terrible deeds ; they lighted a fire in the middle of the great magazine, when the whole town would have been blown into the air but for the courage and immediate exertions of some officers and soldiers who were still in their senses, and sensible of the awful gulf around them. Our loss was, I think, 1,400 soldiers and 90 officers, — 60 officers and some 700 men fell in the breach. Generals McKinnon and Crawford, two noble and gallant soldiers, were killed ; and along with them many stoutly brave, fell that day. 24 BONE SOUP. who feared no danger, and whose lives were more precious than fine gold. ' The great obstacle in the advance of the siege was caused by the useless and most disgraceful tools furnished by the Store- keeper-GeneraPs office in England. The contractor's profits seemed to be more attended to and respected than our chance of success in taking this fortress ; and so it has been the case, again and again, even on to the siege of Savastopol, forty-two years afterwards, to ray knowledge. 300 French had fallen, we had 1,600 prisoners, immense stores of ammunition, 150 pieces of artillery, and Marmont's battering train. On the following day, when the escort with the prisoners were marching out by the breach, somehow or other an explosion took place and numbers of both parties were blown into the air ! Wellington was now created Duke of Ciudad Rodrigo by the Spaniards, Earl of Wellington in England, and Marquis of Torres- Vedras in Portugal. Thus ended this chapter of the war. From this time until the middle of March, 1812, we were kept roving about the country to pot the French, kill them, and cook them in our own fashion : all was lawful in war ; but they were very sharp and always slept with one eye open : we had to do the same. It was like deer-stalking at times, — a glorious thing to whack in amongst a lively party with their flesh-pots on the fire of well-seasoned wood. A chest of drawers, perhaps, or the mahogany table of some Hidalgo in the middle of the street blazing away, and the crapjpos calling out, " Bonne soupe, bonne soupe.'*' " Bone soup," says Paddy Muldoon one day ; " those vagabones live on bone soup : I hlivG they would make soup out o' an owl gridiron that once fried a red- herrin'. But we're purty near them now, I think, to have a crack at their hone soup." Paddy, a front-rank man of the Light Company, was in advance, as we cautiously moved along under cover of some of the ever-green olive-trees and stone walls. Ho was bravo, but nervously irksome to be at his work whenever he smelt a Frenchman ; and here he spoiled our fun and a capture. As we approached the head of the village, Paddy lot fiy a shot into the middle of a coveij who were HORRORS OF WAR. 25 in reality cooking their dinner, as I have said. Then a general rush on both sides ; one party to grapple their arms and run, the other to pursue, slay, or capture. But the French Light Infantry run very fast when there's powder and lead at their heels; and no blame to them. Paddy was called to account for breaking the peace without orders. " I couldn't help it, sir, you see, for I had a fine rest for my firelock on the wall, and was sure of one on 'em, bein' in line sittin so close ; but they've left their kittles behind, and o' course their hone soup, packs, and all." We gave them chase a little way, and cap- tured a few, who Paddy said had corns, for the rest got into a wood and cleared out of sight in no time. The kettles were left and examined : some contained bits of pork and vegetables, or a gallina or old hen, but no fresh meat. " 'Pon me conscience," says Muldoon, " that's the cook I knocked over, for there's the bullet-hole right through his pot, and I'm sorry for him ; but he kept a bad look-out." This was merely a small advance picket of the French. Such things happened almost every day, and there was nothing more about it. War for three years was spread over unhappy Spain ; battles were fought, men were slaughtered, the country ravaged, houses robbed and burned, families flying to the mountains to escape the horrors of licentious soldiers. The terrors of a marauding army are little known. Legions of low-caste, vulgar men, all loose amongst the people, — always for evil, never for good. Then the guerilla bands for ever watching the French, intercepting their convoys and detachments, and pouncing into them from the rocks and mountain passes, dealing fearful death to every victim ; and this continued for six years in a charming country, amongst a for- merly happy, contented, and amiable peasantry. I have been at the heels of a French party as they escaped from a sweet little country town, leaving their camp kettles on fires in the street, lighted (as I have said) by household furniture, and sometimes one or two members of a family lying murdeted on their own hearth-stone ! This was but too common a tragedy, and repeated very often to my own personal knowledge. 2G BADAJ08. We again returned to our quarters at Albuquerque early in March, and I made nay acquaintance once more with the look-out tower, where the order was vigilance from dawn to dark. The British army now began to concentrate their forces in Estremadura; a groat battering train was moved up from Elvas, a large fortified town in Portugal, about three or four leagues from Badajos; this was a laborious, slow-coach affair, the great guns were moved slowly along, with only a caval- cade of bullocks the whole length of the natural road that never felt a stone on its soft surface ; hundreds of the Spanish peasantry were employed carrying the shot and shell. All the engineers, sa])pers, and miners were called to attention ; groups of officers at every corner with unusual solemnity talked of the coming storm, when ground would be broken, who were to lead the way, wdiat divisions to be chosen, and who would describe the fall of Badajos to friends at home. No one doubted the success of the enterprise, but no one ventured to say that his life was his own after the first gun was fired ; there was a terrible day approaching, but nobody afraid, even bets being frequently made on the day and hour of the opening ball. I had no particular nervous feeling now ; men stand together and encourage each other in the hour of danger ; but I can't ujiderstand the man who would openly express himself callous to all feeling under a shower of lead, or before the mouth of a cannonade. A common saying was, " every bullet has its billet,'' and all seemed outwardly serene. Badajos, which stands on the river Guadiana, in a plain, is about the strongest fortress I had ever seen ; but there was nothing proof in those days against British valour. Hero were two of the most warlike nations on earth armed ngainst each other in deadly strife. " Vivo Napoleon ! vive I'Empereur ! " was the exciting cry on one side; — on the other, ''Hurrah for old England," — a ilouri.^h of drums, with the "Britisli Grenadiers," or " Garry own," set our fellows wild for a dash at any time. Both were so badly armed that I wonder how we killed each otiier at all ; but the distance was very short at times, and the PREPARATIONS. 27 bayonet did a great deal of the work, — the French never liked the steel ; still they were brave, very brave. The days rolled away quickly as they do at present ; we got a small advance of pay ; tho 1 Gth was my birthday, and if I had no salutations, gifts, or a home jollification, I had a good loaf of Spanish bread, a pork chop, and a bottle of country wine, all alone in my billet, and was content. The battalion was so scattered, that few of us subs could form a little mess to put our rations into the same pot to make some " bono soup." My billet was on a very respectable family, — the patrone, his sefiora, and two daughters, both '' hermosa.'^ We sat of an evening over the hrazero, or brass pan, filled with charcoal, rod cinders, which kept life in our finger-tips ; it was renewed occasionally, and we conversed about the coming storm, for they had many friends in Badajos. I had picked up the language pretty well for my time, which was a great advantage ; it is a sweet and expressive language and easily learned. The Duke had now arranged his plans. Patrick's day came round as usual, and on that fighting festival-morning the band and drums enlivened all Patlanders with the national tune. The same night 1,800 men broke ground IGO yards from the out fort of Picuriua, protected by a guard of 2,000 ; so that some of the Irish soldiers were not altogether disappointed in having a bit of a shindy before they went to sleep. There was a call for some volunteer officers for the engineer depart- ment, and to superintend the work in the trenches ; two from the 34th, — Lieutenant Masterman and G . B. I was very much attached to poor M. ; he did me a service once, and I never forgot the smallest kindness in all my career, which has been a long one. The trench work was as dangerous as it was arduous ; all those who served before Sebastopol will under- stand this — and now the work of death began in reality. Generals Picton, Colville, Kein})t, and i3owes, connnanded alternately in the trenches. All tlio arts of war then known were brought into play on both sides, for the attack and defence ; every man carried his life in his hand ; hope lived in the hearts of all. The whole world at this time could not ])roduce a nobler specimen of a soldier than the British ; — tpiick to orders, calm 28 POET PICURINA. and resolute in danger, obedient and careful of liis officers in all peril ; he will go to the front, even to the muzzle of the gun, fighting his way until blown to eternity. And what is that fearful word ? It is the lifetime of the Almighty ! — Many were our difficulties : torrents of rain at nights poured upon the working parties, shot and shell continually striking down the men, provisions scarce, our pontoon bridge carried away, artillery and engineer officers being killed and wounded every day, but no suspension of the fiery trial. About nine o'clock on the night of the 24th the assault was made on Fort Picurina. The distance was short and the troops quickly closed on their game — black and silent before — now one mass of fire. The depth of the ditch baffled them ; also the thickness of the poles ; the quick shooting of the enemy, and the guns from tie town, rendered the carnage dreadful. Rockets were thrown up by the besieged; the shrill sound of the alarm-bells, mixing with the shouts of the combatants, in- creased the tunmlt ; still Picurina sent out streams of fire, by the light of which dark figures were seen furiously struggling on the ramparts, fighting hand to hand with the enemy ; none would yield until but eighty-six men of the fort and the commandant were left. Our loss was eighteen or twenty officers and some three hundred men killed and wounded. This was only clear- ing the way abit ; a frightful and destructive havoc was carried on inside and outside (in particular) the town until the 4th of April. Time being now a great object, and Soult advancing with a large army to relieve the city, the breach being reported practicable, eighteen thousand of our daring British soldiers burned for the signal of attack. The assault was arranged and ordered for the next evening, and eagerly did the men make themselves ready for a combat so fiercely fought, so terribly won, so dreadful in all its circum- stances, that posterity can scarcely be expected to credit the o'er true tale ; but many are still alive who know that it is true. 29 CHAPTER III. The Assault. — Fall of Badajos. — After the Assault. — The Sacking of Badiijos. — Neglect of the British Government. — Departure from Badajos. — Discipline. — Jollifications. — Castle Mirabete. — Forts Napo- leon and Almaraz. — Disappointment. — Chivalry. — Flat Burglary. — Quill to the rescue. — Leonora. — Estramos. — To Lisbon on leave. THE night was dry and cloudy, the trenches and ramparts unusually still — lights were seen to flit here and there, while the deep voice of the sentinels proclaimed ^' All well in Badajos." The British, standing in deep columns, as eager to meet that fiery destruction as the French were to pour it down, were both alike gigantic now in terrible strength and discipline, resolute, and determined to win or die. The recent toil and hardship, the spilling of blood, the desire for glory, an old grudge and a dash of ferocity, not omitting the plunder and thirst for spoil, and pride of country and arms, caused our men never to doubt their own strength of arm to bear down all before them, and every obstacle opposed to their furious determination. At 10 o^clock the Castle, the San Roque, the breaches, the Pardaleras, the distant bastion of San Vincente, and the bridge-head on the other side of the Guadiana, were to have been assailed at the same time, and it was to be hoped that the enemy would quail and lose some of their strength within this girdle of fire ; but many are the disappointments of war, and it may be taken as a maxim that the difficulties are so innumerable that no head was ever yet strong enough to forecalculate them all. An unforeseen accident delayed the attack of the 5th Division, us at first intended, and a lighted carcass, thrown from the castle, falling near, rendered it necessary to hurry on the attack about half an hour before the time which was subsequently arranged ; and so all being suddenly disturbed, the 4th and Light divisions moved swiftly and silently against the breaches, and the guard of the trenches rushing forward with a cheer, encompassed the San Roque with fire, and broke in so violently 30 THE ASSAULT. that little resistance was made there ; bat a sudden blaze of light and the rattle of musketry indicated the beginning of a frightful conflict at the castle. General Kempt fell here wounded ; General Sir Thomas Picton took his place. The men dashed forward under a terrible fire, spread and raised their ladders against the castle walls, and with unexampled courage ran up under a shower of shot and shell, stones and small arms, while a fearful fire was kept up on the Red-coats from flanks and centre. The leading men on the ladders were met by pikes, bayonets, and musketry, and their ladders pushed from the walls. Now the deafening shouts, crashing of broken ladders, and the shrieking of the cruslied and wounded men, became loud amongst the din of war, and excited to madness the comrades of the undaunted brave below, who swarmed T-gain round the ladders, swiftly ran up, and were tossed over from the enemy above, who cried, " Victory ! " and " "Why don't you come into Badajos?" The brave Colonel Ridge, with a voice like thunder, called to his men to follow, raised a ladder to the wall a little further off, and met but little opposition until he got in. Another ladder was raised, and our men went pouring in, took the enemy in the flanks, and delivered a volley which very much astonished and staggered them. Here another fight commenced, and here poor Ridge fell — no man died a more glorious death in battle, although multitudes of brave men fell who deserved great military glory. The frightful tumult at the main breach all this time, the incessant roar of cannon, musketry, bursting of shells, yells of the wounded, and cheering of those who had so short a time to live, rent the air in a fierj'^ lava of exploding shells and barrels of powder. Every flash showed the French ready and prepared on the ramparts — showed their glittering arms, dark figures, heaps of live shells, and an astonishing amount of artillery, every man having three loaded muskets beside him — and yet our men leaped into the ditch, of whom five hundred volunteers, being foremost, were dashed to pieces with shot, shell, and powder- barrels. The Light Division stood for a moment in horror at the THE ASSAULT. 31 terrific sight; then with a wild shout dashed with one accord into the fiery gulf, and, with the hght of a blaze of fire-arms from above, the 4tli Division followed in an excited fury, — 100 men were drowned in the inundation (for at this time the sluices were opened, and the water let into the ditch from the river). They now turned off' to the! left, seeking for the main breach, and got crowded and mixed together ; the only light was that of the flashing guns, poiving death and destruction among them. The confusion was great, but all cheered like thunder; the French cheers also were loud and terrible, — the bursting of grenades, shells, and powder-barrels, the whizzing flight of blazing splinters of barrels, the loud voice of the officers, and the heavy groans of the dying, were sufficient to create a terror indescribable. Now they found the way, and went at the breach like a whirlwind. Sword-blades, sharp and pointed, fixed in ponderous beams, were in their front as they ascended ; planks, too, filled with iron spikes ; while every Frenchman had three or four loaded muskets at his feet, with leaden slugs over the usual bullet. Hundreds of our men had fallen, dropping at every discharge, which only maddened the living; the cheer was for ever on, on, with screams of vengeance and a fury determined to win the town ; the rear pushed the foremost into the sword-blades to make a bridge of their bodies rather than bo frustrated in their success. Slaughter, tumult, and disorder continued ; no command could be heard, the wounded struggling to free themselves from under the bleeding bodies of their dead comrades ; the enemy^s guns within a few yards, at every fire opening a bloody lane amongst our people, who closed up, and, with shouts of terror as the lava burned them up, pressed on to destruction — officers, starting forward with an heroic impulse, carried on their men to the yawning breach and glittering steel, which still continued to belch out flames of scorching death. About midnight, when 2,000 men liad fallen, Wellington, who was looking on, sent an order for the troops to retire and re-form for another attack. In the retreat from the ditch there was great confusion and terrible carnage under the continual fire of the French ; the groans and lamentations of the wounded 32 FALL OP BADAJOS. trampled on, and expecting to be left to the mercy of an ex- asperated and ferocious enemy, were awful. Who could explain their feelings ? The bitterness of death to them was past. The 3rd Division had gained the Castle ; the 5th Division also was engaged at another point — the town was girdled with fire — General Walker's brigade was escalading — the Portuguese troops were unnerved, and threw down the ladders. Our men snatched them up and raised them against the walls nearly thirty feet high ; the ladders were short, yet the men clambered up. The fire of the French was deadly; a mine was sprung under the soldiers' feet, live shells and beams of wood were rolled over on them with showers of grape; man after man dropped dead from the ladders. Other points were attacked and won ; the French fought like demons, — a death- struggle of fiery antagonists took place at every corner, while our men most thoroughly maddened with rage and excite- ment, dashed at the breach with wild resolution ; for is it not recorded, " Who shall describe the martial fury of that des- perate soldier of the 95th, who, in his resolution to win, thrust himself beneath the chained sword-blades, and there sufiered the enemy to dash out his brains with the ends of their muskets." Here now was a crushing and most desperate struggle for the prize; the bright beams of the moon were obscured with powder- smoke, — the springing of mines, powder-barrels, flashing of guns and small arms, rendered our men marks for destruc- tion — death's grasp was just on the remnant of the brave, a total annihilation of humanity on our side, when the troops who had escaladed the Castle made a dash at the breach, and, with one loud cheer for England, and a sweeping volley, and another mad shrieking yell, rushed on with the bayonet, and cleared the bloody gap for those below, who now rushed in, driving the French from every point, — and Badajos ivas ivon ! Let any one picture to himself this frightful carnage taking place in a space of less than a hundred yards square ; let him consider that the slain died not all suddenly, nor by one manner of death ; that some perished by steel, some by shot, some by water, some crushed and mangled by heavy weights, some trampled upon, some dashed to atoms by the fierce ex- AFTER THE ASSAULT. 33 plosions, that for hours this destruction was endured without shrinking", and that the town was won at last. Let any man consider this, and he must admit that a British army bears with it an awful power. No age, no nation ever sent forth braver troops to battle than those who stormed Badajos. When the extent of the night's havoc was made known to Lord Wellington, the firmness of his nature gave way for a moment and the pride of conquest yielded to a burst of grief for the loss of his gallant soldiers. For two days the town was in possession of the victorious, and it may be as well to draw a veil over the misdeeds of men stained with the blood of their comrades, now excited to very frenzy. A siege is always terrible, but the sacking of a town is an abomination ; here the inhabitants suffer the terrible vengeance of all the ferocity of the human species. I remember two sisters, beautiful daughters of Spain, who made their escape from the town when the soldiers spread for plunder and mischief; they made their way into our camp outside, and threw themselves on the protection of the first British officers they met (two of the — Regiment). One of those ladies married her protector ; I knew them both ; he became a distinguished general officer, and now lies in West- minster Abbey ; she is still living. The scenes that took place in the town were frightful, not fit to be recorded. The priests took refuge with the fair sex in the great church for safety, and barricaded the doors ; there was no safety anywhere, the maniacs " for the time " loaded their firelocks and let fly a volley into the lock of the door, which opened it quickly enough, and then The wine-shops were all in demand ; if the men were not all drunk, there were none of them quite sober, but very able to go on with the plunder. One fellow might be seen with a bag of dollars ; another cove would take him into a wine-house, make him stupidly drunk, and carry off the douros ; one or two more working in concert wonld knock this chap down, and rob him of his treasure. They brought all sorts of things into the camp, until the tents were supplied with furnitura such as was never seen in a camp before. One fellow with a tat- 34 THE SACKING OP BADAJOS. tered red coat, grasping his firelock, was groaning under an old- fashioned eight-day clock ; while another had a broad looking- glass on his back ; chairs and tables, priests' vestments, ladies' dresses, beds, blankets, and cooking-pots, with sausages, and pig-skins of wine. '' Stop, Jack, and give us a dhrinh ov that wine," some fellow would say (dressed in his half-bloody uniform, and on his head the sombrero of an old priest). "Devil a drop, now; it's going to the camp." " Faith an' I'll tap it for myself, then ;" and slap goes his bayonet into the skin, and out flows the wine. Then there is a wrangle, and then they are friends, and both get jolly drunk, and lie there helpless long enough. There were watches amongst them, gold and silver, some valuable ornaments, doubloons, and dollars ; they were fond of parading their treasure, and more fond of drinking to excess ; consequently these articles changed hands frequently as they got drunk, and the sober ones saved them the trouble of looking after their stolen goods ; but still the truth must be told, the besieging army were promised the sacking of the town when taken, and, notwithstanding all the devotion and bravery of the British soldier, this promise of pillage adds to his courage and determination. Therefore it became their reward, and as all the Spaniards in the city had timely notice of the siege, and were offered a free and safe escort away to any place of safety, those who chose to remain stayed at a fearful risk ; very many went away at the beginning, but many who favoured the French party remained to their cost. There was no discipline as yet amongst the stormcrs ; all was riot, confusion, and drunkenness. Tho officers had no control over their late devoted and obedient soldiers ; they were mad, and went about with loaded muskets and fixed bayonets, to the terror of each other and everybody else. The Duke rode into the town with his staff, on the evening of tho second day, and was immediately recognized. " There he comes, with his long nose," said one old warrior who knew him well j " let's give him a salute." A dozen or 80 of half-drunken fellows collected, fired a volley of ball cart- ridge over his head, with a cheer, saying, " There goes the oivl chap that can leather the French ! " and then they all cut away and hid themselves out of his sight. It was rather a dangerous NEGLECT OP THE BRITISH GOVERNMENT. 35 fen-de-joie ; for tlie commander-in-chief, who did not seem to like it, went off directly and gave orders for a gibbet to be erected in the great square, and had it proclaimed in camp and through the town that any man found in Badajos the next day would be hanged ! This seemed to sober the drunken and curb the passions of all ; fatigued almost to death with fighting and excitement, riot and drunkenness, they were glad of some rest, and, gathered in now to the camp, became obedient to orders, and got ready for any future emergency; and many a bloody, hard-contested battle- field was still before them, which I intend, in my poor insignificant way of writing, to record, but only what I saw and shared in. Badajos had now fallen, and with it five thousand of our bravest men ; and, to the discredit of the English Government, no army was ever so ill provided with the means of prosecuting such an enterprise. The ablest officers trembled when reflect- ing how utterly destitute they were of all that belonged to real service ; without sappers and miners they were compelled to attack fortresses defended by the most warlike, practised, and scientific troops of the age. The best officers and the finest soldiers were obliged to sacrifice themselves in a lament- able way, to compensate for the negligence and incapacity of a Government always ready to plunge the nation into a war without the slightest care of what was necessary to obtain success. The sieges carried on by the British in Spain were a succession of butcheries, because the commonest materials, and the means necessary for their art, were denied the engi- neers ; and this liberal and generous Government and their noble successors took tJiirty-six years to consider whether the men of Badajos and those who fought their way from Torres Vedras to Toulouse, in victorious conquest for six long years, were yet worthy to wear a medal ! Napoleon's troops /oi((//i/ in bright fields, where every helmet caught some beams of glorj'^, but the British soldier conquered under the cold shade of aristocracy ; no honours recognized his daring, no despatch gave his name to the applause of his countrymen ; his life of danger and hardship was uncheered D 2 36 DEPARTUUE FROM 13ADAJ0S. by hope, his death unnoticed; ho endured with surprising fortitude the sorest of ills, sustained the most terrible assaults in battle unnerved, overthrew with incredible energy every opponent, and at all times proved himself to be a soldier worthy of England. Poor old Badajos was awfully battered about 3 steeple of the church in the Plaza-grande stood so ver^ .luch in the way of our shot, going up to the breach, that it came down by the run, and the ball made a bed for itself below the level of the flags. The houses, balconies, churches, convents, and monas- teries all suffered severely. None of the multitudes of saints came to protect their sacred possessions, though invoked by chanting priests, Jiolij friars, religious nuns, ringing of bells, and tubs of holi/ water. All the miracles of priestcraft ceased for a season ; the saints all ran away, and those burly priests who remained in the beleaguered town were sorry enough they did not run after them. I was greatly surprised at the size of the guns and mortars used in the fortress — some c e latter were wide enough to admit my head and shoulders _, 1 often when the shot and shell fell and exploded in our lines, they left holes wide enough to bury a horse. The wounded, amongst whom was my friend Masterman,were sent to the hospital at Estramos, in Portugal, established there as the grand depot for sick and wounded ; and now we all broke up from before the shattered town, and went our different ways. Soult had made a forced march down country with a great army to relieve Badajos, and got as far as Morida to be just too late, for our people had blown up two arches in the fine old bridge to delay his progress, and on finding, while within hearing of our guns, that the j^lace had fallen, he retired. Lord Hill went back to Merida ; we crossed the bridge, it being repaired in a temporary way by our own engineers, the men passing over by files, the baggage animals one at a time, while great caution was used in getting over the guns. It was melancholy to see the two centre arches had gone, but still there were left fifty- oight in glory. The French army had divided, and so we had to give them chase. We had a variety of marching and counter-marching, DISCIFLINE. 37 stopping here and tliere in nice Spanish towns, billeted for a week or two, and then off like a shot when in full enjoynient of rest and peace. Zafra, Fucnte del Maistre, ^lalpartida, Caccres, and ofras [luehlas, were familiar to us all, having visited them so often ; but still it was a weary and hungry time with most of us. The army was long unpaid, and our credit low. I found favour in the eyes of the brigade butcher, himself a private soldier of my own regiment, who gave us tick for a bullock\s head, heart, or liver — sometimes a sheep's head and pluck — until we got our pay. These, to us luxuries, were his perquisites, for three of us were now messing together, adding any little additions that fortune might throw in our way into the camp kettle. There was a positive general order against plunder, and of course no officer would be guilty of such an ■'act. Our rations were short at times, yet w^e fed the Spanish troops ; and tlieir generals purloined the English gold, robbed and plundered, and sold the very arms supplied them by England for their own defence; yet if a soldier of ours was caught picking up an old hen or duck, or a stray goose, he was at once tied up, and got six dozen. If a very grave offence — such as robbing the person — he was tried by court- martial, and, if found guilty, hanged upon a tree, and no mistake. I remember seeing three soldiers hanged one morning on the long projecting arm of a cork tree, for rob- bing some muleteers ; men who would have fought to the death in the battle-field. It was a most melancholy and touching sight, as we marched away, to see three redcoats dangling in the air, awaiting the vultures which generally followed on the army. The Spanish muleteers were the very life and sustenance of the Peninsular war; we could not have existed without them. Everything was conveyed by them for the army — provisions, ammunition, rum, &c. Their patience, hardiness, and fidelity to the British army were remarkable ; but, on the contrary, the men high in rank, generals, governors, diplomatists, hidalgos, the Spanish Jvmta, and Portuguese loaders, such as the ambitious and intriguing Bishop of Oporto — commonly called the Patriarch — the Sousas — were contemptible, selfish. 83" JOLLIFICATIONS. cowardly, ignorant, fraudulent, faithless, and cruel. These were the worthies Wellington had to contend against while fighting their battles — always contentious and deceptive. Our next exploit was to take and destroy the stronghold of Almaraz, a fortress held by the French on the Tagns. General Sir Rowland Hill assembled his corps of the army in and about the fine old town of Truxillo in the middle of May, 1812. My regiment happened to be billeted in this city of Pizarro ; his birth-place, his house, still . noble building, gave good cover to our soldiers; altogether a likely place to look at for one's dinner ; but there was no hospitality. So we determined to get up a big mess dinner for the whole regiment once for all, to celebrate the battle of Albuera ! A celebrated sutler, one Taraet, a Turk, always followed our division with a supply of good things ; such as English hams, tea, sugar, pickles, and a variety of other luxuries, all at famine prices ; but Senor Tamet was a good- natured fellow, and gave some people tick until the next issue of pay, and continued to give credit to those who paid according to agreement. He now furnished our regiment with what we required for our banquet. We selected a pretty Bpot outside the town, under some cork-trees, marked out the size of our table on the green sod, and cut a trench all round. Our legs in the trench, we sat on the ground, with the table in front, but without a table-cloth. This was our arrangement. We were like school-boys about Christmas, looking out for a jollification dinner ; but all was rough, and nothing at all smooth in these days. However, the IGth of May was to be a day of festivity. There had been a great many auction sales of late, so many officers being killed at Badajos; it was usual to sell their efiects, and remit the amount of sale to the agents at homo. In this way most of us got our supply of clothing. I bought a pony saddle and bridle. Always fond of horses, being light in weight and a good horseman, I was now a sort of mounted oflacer, and a great don in my own estimation. I was in demand for riding races, too, an amusement manly, cheerful, and always present where there is a British army. While CASTLE "mIRABETE." 39 preparations were being made for the 16th, wliich was the following day, we got orders to cook three days' rations, and march the same night ! A sad disappointment — no bag- gage to accompany the division, so that our return was pretty sure, at least that of the living ; but of course we were obliged to postpone our dinner slue die. Three of us jolly subs messed together, called the '^Tria juncta in uno;" and our motto was, " Toujours prct." I gave up my pony to carry our three days' prog, tied up in our haversacks, and slung across tho saddle, with tJtrcG distinct orders to my servant to be careful and follow the column and not lose sight of the troops. We marched away by moonlight ; the men slung tlieir arms, to prevent the enemy seeing our line of march and calculating our numbers, for the barrels were bright in those days and might be seen glistening a long way off by moonlight. The daily polishing of the old flint firelock gave the men an infinity of bother and trouble; rainy days and night dews gave them a rust which was never permitted on parade, as we were more particular about clean arms and powder dry than anything else. We moved on all quiet, the muleteer alone singing a serenade to beguile the passing hour. Wo marched through rugged mountain passes nearly all the night, halting about every quarter of an hour, in consequence of the many obstacles in front ; and at every halt I was fast asleep on the sod, and evd'ybody else also perhaps;— but let every one write a book for himself, and tell his own story. I can't undertake it, but may say in truth that twenty men of any perception or interest in their triido might write a history of a campaign or a battle, each one clear in his story, yet all differing in narrative. About four o'clock in the morning my regiment was ordered to halt, the rest of the division pushing on, and now Colonel F explained our plan of attack in a few words. On the top of a mountain, just above, stood the castle of " Mirabete," gar- risoned by 1 ,000 French soldiers and eight gnns^ with a rampart twelve feet high; to storm this place by coup- de-main, by an escalade in the old style, and as quickly as po.'isible, was uur part of the night's amusement. Volunteers wore called for tho ibrloru hope, and they jumped to tho front in a minute, with 40 FORTS NAPOLEON AND ALMAEAZ. an officer, Lieutenant Sullivan, at their head. Being myself orderly officer for the day, I was detailed to go in front with the scaling-ladders to place against the walls, a position I considered at the time equal to a wooden leg ; but it never can be too often repeated that war, however adorned by splendid strokes of skill, is commonly a series of errors and accidents. We crawled up this steep ascent with great caution and silence ; but just as we approached the tower, a solitary shot was fired at the foot of the hill, and the next moment tho castle was in a blaze. Luckily for us it was not yet day- light, and that a cloud of mist hung over the castle top ; we could not be seen, but the garrison kept up a random fire, all their shot passing over our heads as we lay on the heather. Tt was now too late to surprise our friends, as they rather sur- prised us with their feu d'e)ifer, and so we retired a little way down and got under cover before dawn ; there we lay all the day waiting for fresh orders. General Hill, too, was discovered, and lay perdu, with C,000 men until nearly daylight on the morning of the 19th, when he let loose his troops upon Forts Napoleon and Almaraz ; sharp work and severe loss in the escalade ; but our men went there to win, the forts were taken and destroyed, guns spiked and sunk in the Tagus, and all material rendered useless. We lost 2 gallant good officers and 180 men, captured 17 officers and 250 men of the French, besides the number killed, one stand of colours, a large amount of ammunition, stores, &c., opened the passage of tho Tajo, and went back to Truxillo. When the day closed, my regiment retraced their steps, and joined the main force all safe and sound. A little thing deranges tho best- laid plans ; when leaving Truxillo, as I have stated, 1 gave my servant his orders, he dallied, and kept too far in rear of the column, in company with a groom of General C , who was leading a spare horse. They missed the turn in the road, dawdled on until they popped on the sentry of an outlying picket, who popped on to thera at once ; tho General's groom was killed,, my fellow was unhorued, tho pony ran away and kicked off saddle, haversacks, prog, and all ; that single shot awoke up tho garrison above, the whole expedition was DISAPPOINTMENT. 41 deranged, and many lives were lost in consequence ; but many, too, were saved, for we left the tower and its garrison for another day, and I cannot say that this grieved me very much ! My pony was found, with his back bare. After having counter- marched, three of us found ourselves likely to starve for two days, unless that other coves could spare part of their common cold ration — Colonel Fenwick kindly spared me a bit of his cold beef and biscuit to keep me alive, just at a time when a quartern loaf, a pound of ham, and a quart of brown ale would have tem- pered my appetite while dinner was being prepared ! However, we looked joyfully forward to the coming big dinner at Truxillo. We did return victorious, but not to the banquet. Alas ! in our absence a foraging party of French dragoons entered the town and carried off all our larder, with all the baggage they could grasp. The wines were overlooked, and, fearful of another foray, our doctor, who had been left behind unwell, got up a ration dinner with a few other friends, took the chair, represented the whole corps, drank to the success of the war, the memory of the brave who fell at Albuera, a safe return to the regiment, and other toasts, until he got so merry he bolted off to a convent to release the nuns like a gallant knight ! Many of the fair seuoritas he knew wore there pining for liberty ; but the watchful and wily priests came to the rescue ; there was a shindy of course, a few officers of the baggage- guard, who had sliared in the toasts, collected their forces and joined the medico, assailed the convent again, and had nearly forced an entrance, when the second in comnuind received a wound on the head and tumbled down the stairs. The doctor called off his troops to see after the wounded, and dressing the cabcza of the only one, made an awkward incision on hia corona — the sangre began to flow, and the hohj priest,« made their escape, satisfied in preserving the dark-eyed maidens from the hands of such heretics, and keeping perdu lest they might get into a scrape for wounding one of II. M.'s officers in uniform. After this Quixotic deed the dinner-party lotired to their siesta, and I believe all got up sober. Great ferocity existed at this time amongst the guerilla chiefs, and indeed at all times. Mina was cruel and revengeful ; 42 CHIVALRY. the curate Merino, too, was revolting in cruelty; lie took some hundred French prisoners on one occasion, and hanged fifty or sixty of them in cold blood, deliberately butchering them in order to avenge the death of three of his men, although he had no proof of their being killed at all. Then there was counter- retaliation, and so the blood work went on continually, both parties to be condemned. Yet, make the case our own, and ask, if an enemy landed on our shores, killed, burned, and destroyed all before them, what would we do ? how would wo feel towards such an enemy ? The poor Spaniards had very great provocation ; but still no one could approve of the fero- cious conduct on either side. There was at all times a chivalrous feeling between the English and French in all their quarrels. We respected each other when prisoners of war, and sometimes in deadly strife I have known some instances of such generous conduct. For example : at Elboden there were some days of hard fighting, and some brilliant examples of skill and bravery. In a cavalry charge, a Frencb officer, in the act of dashing sword in hand at the gallant Lieutenant- Colonel Felton Harvey, of the l-ith Light Dragoons, saw, Just in time, that he had but one arm, and with a movement as rapid as his horse brought down his sword into a salute, and passed on. Nothing on military record more manly, or more beautiful than this ! About this time I was ordered away, in charge of a convoy of sick and wounded, to the grand depot at Estramos, in Portugal. I sold my pony to raise the wind and pay my debts, and prepared for my long journey. I had about ten dollars over, and my donkey, which was now all my own. I bought him out and out ; he carried all my world's treasure on his broadside, and might have carried myself at times, for he was not overloaded. An old leather trunk, containing my kit on one side, balanced by a sack on the reverse, which held the frying-pan, camp-kettle, reaping-hook, and some odds and ends, with my servant's knapsack, a privilege which he claimed when away from the regiment. Tom Tandy, who was a good forager, always left room in the sack for anything Providence might se7ad on the way, as he said, " to help tlio rations." He MAURICE QUILL. 43 drove the willing donkey before him, and we commenced our journey. My troop were all mounted on commissary mules, one muleteer havinor charge of three or four. Taking^ sick and wounded down to the depots, they always returned to the army with a cargo of rum and biscuit. They were constantly employed. My companion, the assistant-surgeon in charge, was a joyous fellow, full of Irish wit and humour, and all sorts of quaint sayings and drollery. His name was Maurice Quill. Any old soldier still in the laud of the living, who served in Spain, would remember something about Dr. Quill and his exploits. We marched away from Truxillo without much regret. Quill stated that he had never had a decent dinner since he came into the country, and could not be worse off on the line of march, although he did not consider it his turxi of duty for such imidice. The weather was very hot, and the marches sometimes long to some town or village, where, according to route, there was to be cover for the night. A billet, with fire and light, was all that we could demand. If the people were kind, and gave us a welcome, we were soon very good friends, and gave them no trouble. This was generally the case ; but they seldom attended to one's appetite, and we really had to forage a bit privately about the roadside, it being considered no man^s land, not that I remember personally breaking the law, but I believe I may have said to my Sancho, " How nice one of those ducks, or that little pig, would fit into the sack, and roast for supper at our next billet." Somehow or another, Tom had a magic knack of inviting these innocents in a playful way into his big wallet, for a ride on the outside of a donkey never agreed with thom ! We always called a halt about a mile or so from our next resting-place for the night, to look about us and do a little business, to save our iMitrone any trouble. Tom took out his reaping-hook, stepped into the next field of standing green corn, and bundled up a ration for the gentleman who carried his kna}).sack. Never forget the poor dumb animal, ho must live as well as his master. As for the muleteers, they were at 44 PLAT BURGLARY. home, and took good care of themselves, and so we snailed along until we came to Badajos, the mutilated and battered old town. They were building up the walls and ramparts, and cleaning away the debris out of the ditches as we passed in. All the tools were laid down as they scanned the cavalcade with sympathy, and with a ^' Viva los Engleses '^ and '^ Via vm. con Dies." Having first housed my troops and left Quill to look after their health, I went in search of my billet, and to arrange for our dinner. The great event of the day is a good dinner, here and there and everywhere, with cheerful company, and we fared very well ; a gallina and sausages, salad, bread, and good country wine, formed no bad repast after a march of seven leagues. The Spanish bread is the finest in the world, the pork in its season most excellent, and the sausages, with the little tinge of garlic, the best I ever tasted. Quill was very tired with his long tramp, as he called it, and retired early. I was fairly knocked up myself with the march, and a broiling sun beaming on my head all the day. I had com- fortable quarters in the square — two rooms and a decent kind of bed. The windows below were all guarded by iron grat- ings. My bedroom was decorated by an iron balcony, from which I looked out on the poor, desolate, shattered city, hardly a house visible without a smash, Spaniards still coming in looking for their old habitations, others mending, patching up temporary dwellings, and looking patiently bewildered. The seven-league march sent me early to roost. Tom picked out a soft plank for himself on the floor outside my door. I left my window wide open to see the dawn and bo early away, tumbled in amongst the fleas, and was soon insensible to their claws. I will back Spain and Portugal against the world for the breed of this very lively creature. Like the dogs in Constantinople, I believe they are encouraged to live and multiply. Always early, I jumped up about five o^clock, rather late for me, and to my horror found notliing in my room but an old shooting-jacket, a pair of trousers to match, my cocked hat and feather, my sword and shoes ! I opened the door and found Tom Tandy asleep, gave him a kick to open his eyes, and then asked if ho had been in my QUILL TO THK RESCUE. 45 room. — " No Sir.'' The whole tiling now flashed before my eyes, the open window invited some Ladrone to walk in and inspect my kit. It was easily done, like crawling up a ladder — everything valuable was gone : my trunk and its contents, red coat, boots, trousers, and all — with the few dollars I had in reserve for hard times coming — all this to me just now was a great calamity. I flung myself into the tattered garments left, and ran oS" to tell the Medico, still hoping it might be some trick of his; but, soon undeceived, I related the sad tale, of which he knew nothing, but kept saying, "Fll get your traps for you.'' When dressed he said, " Now, come along, and show me your Patrone " (land- lord). I saw that he was screwing himself up for a charge at the Patrone. I said, " He knows nothing of the robbery ; Tom was asleep, with his head to my door, all night." — "Never mind, I must see him." I sent Tom down for the Seilor; and, so soon as the poor gentleman appeared, the Doctor made a spring, and fastened in his collar, saying, in his own native language and excitement, " If — you — don't — get — this — officer — all — his — things — which — you — stole — I'll — cut — your — Spanish — throat," laying an emphasis on every word, that the Spaniard might not misunder^ id him ! The poor man was dreadfully alarmed ; there was a noisy row — his daughter, a pretty black-eyed maid, rushed in to the rescue, at the time the Doctor was making signs of an incision across her father's throat. I tried to drag him off"; the young lady screamed, but the medico declared it was all sham, and he would have my traps restored. However, I got the Sefior released from an iron grasp, and his daughter in tears took him away. Quill at the same time took his leave, saying, " If I chose to submit to be robbed at every billet in Spain, not to call upon him for any advice or assist- ance ! " He could not speak a word of Spanish, and was much prejudiced against the whole race, believed every man in the country to be a public robber, and looked sharp after his own kit. He was not very far wrong, but still there were honest men and women too, and plenty of them, who loved " los Englcses " as well as their own bright land. 46 LEONORA. Timo being nearly up, I ran off to the office of the Alcalde to report my niisfbrtiine, not expecting rnncli redress there. " Give me a list of your losses," he said, " and I will make inquiry after them ; you must wait the result here." I gave him the list in writing, and my address, name, regiment, and division of the army, and there it ended. Going back with all my dander up and a melancholy phiz to move ofl' my traps, I heard a sweet, voice from a balcony call out, " Senor George. ^^ I looked up, and saw a fair lady whom I had known formerly in my old quarters at Albuquerque. She called mo up, and, quite rejoiced to see me again, asked a hundred questions all at once — wliere was the regiment ? how were all the oflicers ? how came I here in this (jueer dress? and where I was going. When she gave mo timo to speak I told her all, which greatly distressed her. " To bo robbed," she said, '' amongst my own people ;" and," Dios mio, yo siento mucho,"&c., and '^ Fm grieved that I cannot help you. I am only hero to see some friends who stood out the siege; we are all poor now. Our property destroyed and pillaged, and Spain ruined. You must have some chocolate and something to eat by the way, and two of my brother's shirts, and ." " Oh no," I said, " I can't take anything. I must be off; my people are wait- ing ;" but the chocolate came in with some toast, the almuerzo (breakfast) of all the better class of Spaniards. I parted from her with great reluctance, and with what is called a tender good-bye too. She saw me to the door, slipped two dollar.s into my hand, and ran up-stairs with a " povorasito " on her lip, and a *Wiva mil nnos, caro amigo, li-Dios, a-Dios." Dear, sweet, gentle, kind-hearted Leonora! I never saw her after- wards to return a hundred-fold her generosity. I would have walked a long day's journey to have met her again to show my gratitude — so much was I touched with this disinterested loving-kindness. I found my troops all present, and in the saddle — " a pack- saddle." " Nobody dead, sir," said the medical officer ; and took his usual place in front, and away I went from Badajos in very light marching order, never to seo it again ; the doctor as mute as a tombstone for two leagues, when I called a halt, ESTRAMOS. 47 and sat clown by tlio side of a clear nice fountain, wliile the mules had their refreshing beverage. Quill now came up and sat down beside me, with a laughing face and admonition for not permitting hira to " choke that rascally Spaniard who stole my traps." " I hope ho didn't steal the fnjing-jxiii." " I have all the cooking traps," says Tom, who was sitting beside his donkey at the fountain, gnawing a bone. ''All," says the doctor, — " a tin pot and a., ugly frying-pan." " All wo want, sir," said Tom, " where nothings to bo got without money, and I haven't seen a dollar of w?/ pay for five months, anti uuffin' to eat but the rations." *' What are you eatin' now, then ? " said Quill." " Just pickin' a sheep's wag, sir, I got at the last billet." " Or the hotel, say, where you paid for everything, and two sheep and a pig into the bargain." " Sir, you're hard upon the patrone ; he couldn't get into master's room, yer see, the door being shut and my head up again it all night ; it was some ladrono that climbed up and got in at the window, which was wide open and easy as a stair. They're not bad people the Spaniards, sir, if you could speak to thorn like me, sir, and not meddle with anything about their doors ; you see, sir, when the old fox wants a goose or a duck, lie always goes away from home to forage, and never touches a chicken near his own d(m." " Vamos, sefior," said the leading muleteer, and wo moved on. The doctor came up to mo and said that ho had a fow dollars in his pocket, and would divide with me the last pisetta (1.S'.), and made himself very agreeable until wo crossed the border and entered the little kingdom of Portugal, put up at Elvas, a strongly fortilied town, met an officer, Lieutenant liowers, of the 50th, stationed there, an old acquaintance, and passed the day with him. I had no occasion, I said, to lock my door to-night, for all my wardrobe was on my back, which astonished a well-dressed military officer of tho British army, until I oxi)lained the cause. " Why," he said, " if you were not so very young, you would be taken for some guerilla chief, and all tho convoy for prisoners of war, only that the guerillas are on our side." "Just so," I said, "and that makes all the difference." We passed on our way without any adventure until we 48 TO LISBON ON LEAVE. sighted Estramos, the end of our journey. It was a })righfc sunny day, hot as you please. About noon, as I headed my long line of mules bearing the lame, and the sick, and the sore, the battered trunks of brave men representing many corps, a general officer and his staff, with their cocked hats and fine plumage, stood in the middle of the square and caught my eye at once, as I marched in at the head of my troop. With open mouth and eyes they all turned towards this spectacle, particularly the commanding officer in the fancy dress. Up comes an aide-de-camp directly from the General, to inquire who/Avas, where I came from, my name, "and about your dress, sir." I thought I would have a rise out of this well- dressed gentleman, so sleek and so well fed. " Just from the fighting army above," I said, " we are not over particular in dress ; hard times too, little to eat, and plenty of field exercise in the fire-away-stijle ; heroes a sample of our trade behind me." He went off to make his report to his master, who sent him back for a more direct reply, particularly about my uniform. I then told him the whole story, and my duty being discharged when I had delivered my troops at the general hospital, requested permission to proceed to Lisbon to get a new rig out. The General gave me two months^ leave at once, but forgot to ask me to dinner ! Quill wished me a safe return through Badajos, and desired mo to be sure to call and apologize to my old patrone! and ask him for my toggery, particularly the douros ! We shook hands and parted mutual good friends, — more of him again. I went in search of my good friend Masterman who had been wounded in the siege ; he was nearly recovered. I passed the day with him ; he gave me an old military blue coat and two dollars, all he could spare, and with this I began my journey over a whole kingdom on foot. Tom had his red coat ; and so we could not be mistaken for any other than true British soldiers. I knew that there were bandits on the road, but consoled myself with the truth that they would not dis- turb a couple of English red-coats,, driving an empty donkey before them. Tom had his brown bess, and sixty rounds of TOM SKIDDY. 49 ball cartridge ; ho kept his flint well fixed and his powder dry. We had a ride on the dpnkey, and carried the gun turn about ; I was commanding ofRcer, and Tom as respectful as on parade, ivliile sohcr. The firstnight on our new line of march ho got right jolly on wine; he had no money nor credit, but a winning way at the wine-house, and a singular way when he lost his balance. I found him in heavy marching order, firelock in hand, when I thought him in bed for the night. " Ho, Tom," I said, " whero are you going ? " " Back to the regiment,'^ he said ; " I go no further : no service on this road." I gave him a punch that floored him right into his little den, where he lay as quiet as a turtle until I took away his gun, knapsack, and ammuni- tion, then locked him up a close prisoner till morning, when he turned out quite fresh and as penitent as priests, who'll never do it again until the next time ! And so Tom worried me all the way, but only at night, when 1 usually locked him up. I had no other adventure on this line of march. Rations were provided by the head man of the village to all who had a route to shoW) and were paid afterwards by our commissary. £ )0 CHAPTEE IV. Better Times. — A Nij^'ht Adventure. — Lisbon. — Oavcat Emptor. — Military Discipline. — Toledo.— .Salamanca. — Heroic Conduct. — After the Battle. — Yepes. — The Koute. — The Parting. — A Surprise. — A lletreat. — JNIadiid. IT was a long, weary, hungry walk over a little kingdom ; but I had a stout heart then, a pair of very active legs, an iron constitution, an appetite too big for uiy means, a devil-me- carc way of my own, always merry and ready for any sort of fun or frolic. I rejoiced to see '' Aldea Gallega ;" and here I crossed the Tajo, nine miles to Lisbon, and made my way to Belem, the English depot, where an officer of my own regiment was stationed. Lieutenant E, n was a kind, hos- pitable fellow, glad to see me and to give me a room in his quarters, as well as a hearty invitation to be his guest while I remained in Lisbon ; and here I did enjoy myself full measure : very opportunely, too, a box of clothing had just arrived in the river for mo from home, with a permission to draw for thv ready ; in addition, I was now all right again, and went* to work quietly to equip myself out like a campaigner for rough days before me. I got up a canteen, bought a silver spoon and fork, aijt'iyfryiugpan, tin plates and dishes, and tins for salt, pepper, tea and sugar, &c. A tailor made up my uniforms, i-iding- jacket, and cap for racing, and other habiliments. All this was going on while I was enjoying myself. I had a good horse to ride, and dined out often ; old starvation ration days were forgotten, and I became a great swell. A.t this time our old friend Dr. L , who played the part of Don Quixote at Truxillo, arrived in bad health, with a home certificate for six months^ leave. He came out to dine with us one day, when we observed by his singular manner that he was not just all right in his pericranium. Dinner was being prepared and A NIGHT ADVENTURE. 51 wino on tlio table ; ho walked in, and was helping himself to a goblet of sherry, when I interposed and requested him to wait a little ; he put down the decanter, took up a carving-knife and made a rush at me ; I ran round the table, ho after mo, when I jumped out of the window, which fortunately was open, and made my escape. I turned round and spoke to him ; he flourished his cuchillo and told me not to come back, or he would stop my promotion ! We found that the poor fellow had gone a little crazy; he had cut half the tail off his red coat, and had played some queer pranks in Lisbon. Wo had him carefully looked after, and I saw him safely on board a ship and placed under the special care of the captain, who took him safe to England. Ho was considered a very clever man in his profession ; he never rejoined the regiment, but we shall meet him again. Major B of ours was promoted into the 77th regiment, now only seven miles from Belem. He asked us to dine at the mess which they had established ; we rode over to havo a jollification, for it was almost necessary at that period to drink wine for three hours after dinner ; then supper, and finish off with spiced wine and a stirrup cup. I saw that my friend R— — was getting top-heavy, very loquacious, speaking like a senator, and getting very valiant. He was invited to a shake-down for the night. Oh, no ! his gallant grey was at the door and would take him home in no time ; so we mounted and rodo away quietly about one o'clock in the morning. We had not gone far when my companion fancied he saw a regiment of French Dragoons in his front, and ordered me to charge. He dashed away at full speed, swaying from side to side in the saddle, so that tho right or left spur was always in the li0,nk of the poor horse. The moon was bright, and tho per- fume along the hedges sweet as honey. Such a climate at that hour was meant for the thoughtful, the gentle, thankful, weary traveller on some errand of mercy, not for Don Quixote and Sancho. I am sure if R had met a windmill in his flight; he would have made the fatal charge ; as it was, I found him in a ditch by the roadside about a mile on, and his horse standing gently beside him. I jumped off my nag and roused e2 . 52 LISBON. him up. Finding no bones broken, I got him once more into the saddle after a great struggle ; for people in their cups are always very wise and very obstinate ! No sooner firmly seated than he gave one wild whoop and was off again, full speed. No use in following, I thought ; it would . only urge on his horse the faster. I rode on quietly, watching br^h sides of the road for this wild fellow, but never saw him or his horse. I arrived at home about six o'clock in the morning and sent his servants in search of him along the road that we came ; but no tidings until mid-day, when he came riding home quite jolly, as if nothing had happened, and blew me up for leaving him alone in a quinta ! Poor R was a very sober fellow at all times, but addicted to gambling, which ultimately ruined him. I had no desire to dine out again with such-like hospitable friends ; a simple repast under a tree suited me better, and I do not remember being at any sort of a mess dinner again during the war. I saw a good deal of Lisbon this time and the beautiful country around it ; as for the city itself at that period, it was the most filthy town I had ever seen : it was dangerous to walk the streets by night. No end to the slops coming from the top windows whop into the gutters below ; the dogs ever on the alert at night, prowling and fighting, — a community of scavengers without owners, rejectf^d and kicked about ; exist- ing in mangy wretchedness, and dying in the streets. As for beggars, they were as plenty as 2:)aving- stones — lazy, indolent, and filthy, they lay on the hot flags, stretching out the long bone of an arm for an alms, but would not rise for it ; they lived in the sun, Iialf-naked ; but as a shirt and trousers were quite enough for any Senor Englese, they required few garments — it was awfully hot. The churches are always open ; they have so much to do in the way of confessions and funerals, fast-days and feast-days, high mass and low mass, processions and exhibitions of saints' bones, and all th^ paraphernalia of deceit practised amongst this bigoted people, who are kept in perfect sub- mission to the Church ; but still I like to sco the doors open. CAVEAT EMPTOR. 53 Many a weary, oppressed, liumblo penitent finds refuge there in time of trouble and affliction ; though unfortunately their prayers are more addressed to saints and images, and to the tawdry-dressed doll over the altar in that glass-case, than to the Almighty, through the merits of His most blessed and exalted Son, the only Saviour of man. No town could be better situated for drainage than Lisbon, but they seemed then to rejoice in its nastiness. I have always remarked that nothing goes right in those bigoted Roman Catholic countries, where the people are kept in dark- ness and overwhelmed in idolatrous priestcraft. So much of their valuable time, too, is deducted for penance, gabbling long prayers, counting over a string of beads, confessing their peccadilloes, and worrying themselves doing ivorJis for their salvation ! My time was now up, and we started — a large detach- ment of many corps — to join the army. I got charge of a spare horse going up to a field officer of the 2nd Division, so I was in luck. Tom and the donkey in good feather and high condition for the road ; Tom w\as two months under garrison discipline, and hobcr as a judge; and very glad, as he said, to go home again. We halted at Elvas en route, I called on the commandant, and found that officer dressed in part of my late wardrobe. I. said to him, '' Might I ask who is your tailor ? " " Why do you ask ? " he said. " Oh, just because he made for mo as well, and my things fit you so nicely. That silk riding-jacket is mine ; I had it for riding races. I can't swear to the trousers, but the vest I would know anywhere." He seemed very much taken aback, and explained how he had bought several things ready-made from a travelling pedlar, which no doubt was the fact. When I explained the Badajos talc, it was all clear that the pedlar was the ladrono (thief), and he had purchased stolon goods, not knowing that they were stolen from Ensign G. B — — , when in the performance of his duty in the service of King George III., of gracious memory. Ho offisred to restore all he had at half the price he paid for them, but I dechned his offer, saying that I had a full kit, and really wanted for nothing. Between this 51' MILITARY DISCIPLINE. little unexpected surprise and excitement lie forgot to ask me to dinner, so we parted, and never met again. I was satisfied tliat I did not awake when the wretched thief was in my room, or I might have felt the plunge of his cuchillo under my fifth rib, to keep me quiet. I got homo safe, and was welcome ; there was no fighting in my absence, so I lost nothing. I found my young friend P , who used to drink more than his allowance of grog on board the Aretliusa, missing, and was informed that, on one unlucky morning for him, tho brigade was roused up suddenly to disperse some advance troops of the enemy, who were poaching upon our grounds. They were being followed up close by the infantry when tho word Avas passed to the rear to send up the guns, as they were rattling past, and our men closing to the left. Poor P lost his balance, tumbled over, and a gun-carriage rufiled his legs, with one of the colours in hand. There was an inquiry, and it could not bo denied that ho had been indulging as iisual in too much of the strong waters, so he got leave to go homo for an indefinite period, which meant to say that his military career was at an end. Tho other gentleman, Lieutenant S , was found one night while on duty mortal drunk, and got leave to quit also. It was this unfortunate fellow who chased mo up on deck with knife in hand for cutting him down on board tho old transport. Commanding officers had almost unlimited power in tlioso days to dismiss officers without court-martial for grave off'onccs like the above : it saved a great deal of trouble and incon- venience, and kept young fellows and old ones in tcrrorcm ; tho men were being fioggcd every day for drunkenness, and it was right that there should bo no partiality between officer and soldier for this crime. Wellington about this time ordered Sir Kovvland Hill to give battle to Dronet, Count D'Erloug, who was roving about our part of Spain with a largo army, feeding and foraging upon the unhappy Spaniards, who received nothing but blows and abuse for feeding their enemies. Wo hunted them all over tho country, and from town to town, but they would not TOLEDO. 55 liave our acquaintance on any terms. Wo drove them from Toledo and Yalladolid, two cities of Spain celebrated in story. I did so enjoy a short stay in the former; the French were hardly gone when yve marched in, and the same evening a ball was given at the Palace in honour of the English general and his officers, the first British troops that had been here. These Spanish balls and parties are not attended with any expense beyond the refreshment of country wine, lemon- ade, and cakes. The Bishop was present; many Grandees, poor and proud, assembled there, and the gentle Senoritas, so neatly and so simply dressed, looked pensive and beautiful. They move about in the dance so gracefully, while generally their feet and figures are perfect. There is a very fine cathedral here, and a magnificent organ, on which I helped to perform a grand piece of church music in the way of blowing tlic bellows — a simple process. 'Tis not dono by hand, but by the feet. You walk up and down the great double bellows behind the organ ; as one exhausts, the other fills, and so 'tis a walk up and down hill while the music lasts. Toledo was celebrated for sword-bladcs, as it is now for priests and friars. It stands on the Tagus, in New Castillo. Wo started in chase once more, and they led us a dance at their heels into Leon, declining to enter into any personal gun- powder quarrel with us for the present. We had very long marches and very hungry soldiers, no money and no credit, six months now in arrears of pay, the muleteers twelve. What could one expect in the trail of a French army ? I paid .s*?.t3 shillinf/s for a loaf of bread, my daily pay being five shillings and threepence, less income-tax ! Soldiers without money become robbers almost everywhere ; but our men behaved admirably, liad ones were to bo found in every corps, because we got the sweepings of jails at homo to fill up our ranks, recruits wefo so scarce at citjldcoi guineas bounty ; but they wore all game cocks at fighting; never was such an army, and Wellington know it. At this period, our noblo Duko and tho French (Jcncral Marmont were dodging each other, and mancruvring about Salamanca, both on tho ijui vivo some days before the 22nd of 56 SALAMANCA. Jul}'', 1812, on which day the great row began. The battle was fought and won by the noble army of Old England, a day of victory garnished by the blood of thousands. Many a time that day did the battle change its very doubtful position. Wellington was here and there and at every point at the right time. The men went down by hundreds ; but won their way by desperate courage through such a fire as British soldiers only can sustain. Onwards they pushed through gloom and blood and powder smoke, which rolled along the field, and clothed the scene in partial darkness. In sounds of terror, the battle raged, volley following volley with deafening rapidity, while charges of cavalry and the booming of gi'eat guns swept off the warriors, on both sides bravo and bold. They fell in sections, crying victory before the fight had half begun. The French reserve came quickly on upon our front and flanks ; then' great masses closed on us in clouds of smoke and streams of fire. The hill-side was soon covered with the dead and dying. The battle-ground was shaking like an earthquake ; for the French rapidly followed up their advantage, and their fire sparkled along the line with terrible effect, as the many gaps in our ranks clearly showed. The crisis was at hand, and victory awaited the general who had the best and largest reserves. The 6tli Division now met the enemy with a shower of leaden hail in their teeth, a cloud of dust blinded their vision, and in that cloud a tremendous charge of cavalry, swift and sure, sword in hand, broke in upon them in full tilt, trampled and cut them down. They lost both nerve and courage, and upwards of a thousand men threw down their arms, while the gLhoring swords of our heavy dragoons, all powerful, cut down all before them j but not before a hundred saddles or more were emptied by a flank fire. The French loft was now broken, Marmont was wounded, and some of his generals, amongst others Desgraviers, killed, the batteries still ])longhing through each other^s ranks. On our side a sheet of flame advanced in front, men only thinking of victory. A few more desperate conflicts took place along the lines ; the French, drunk with excitement, staggered, wore beaten, and having lost HEBOIC CONDUCT. 57 two tliousand prisoners, retreated in the dusk of evening, with our dragoons at their heels, made for thoTorines,and crossed that river by night. The Duke, always wide awake, left the Spanish General Carlos d'Espafia at Alba de Tormes to intercept the French in case of retreat ; but, as usual, he paid no respect to his orders. Ho left his post, and so let tho defeated enemy escape across the ford ! Trifling actions often mar great com- binations ; if this valiant Spaniard had obeyed his orders, at least a third of tho fugitives would have been captured. As it was, the victory was great and decisive. Many stories might be told of noble deeds of valour done that day, every tale a true one, — of how tho gallant soldiers of 1812 fought for Albion, and sent their laurels home. A 43rd man, shot through tho thigh, lost his shoes in the marshy ground ; refusing to quit tho battle-field, he limped on under fire with naked feet and blood streaming from his wound, and thus marched on for several miles over a country covered with a small flinty stone. Kit Wallace, a private in my company, a simple sort of fellow, who had no friends and was always a butt, and often called a coward in joke, said, " I'll not fire a shot, a single shot in the rear rank'' (his proper place), and rushed to tho front, expended his sixty rounds of ball-cartridge, and calling for more, said, '' Now, am I a coward ? " A man who fought beside Wallace was struck with a ball that passed through his body on tho right side ; you might have put a ramrod completely through tho hole. He deliberately took his last shot, walked to tho rear, lay down under a tree, and went to sleep in death. The delicate and beautiful wife of Colonel Dalbiac braved tho dangers and f>rivations of two campaigns with tho fortitude and patience of her sex. In this battle of Salamanca, forgetful of herself, supported by strong affection for her gallant knight, irresistibly impelled forward, trembling at the fear of death, she rode amidst the enemy's fire, exposing herself to imminent peril. There was no man present that day fighting the battles of his country that did not fight with more than double enthusiasm seeing that fair lady in such danger on the battle- field. Wellington was hit by a spent shot in the leg, but pushed 58 AFTER THE RATTLE. on early next day after his friends, when thoio w* i .nother row and some slaughter. Poor General Foroy had dif > ' hia wounds, and was buried by the roadside. The brave R : irds found the spot, and tore up his body from his humblb grave to mutilate and dishonour the shattered shell, when our soldiers came up, and rescued it from their unholy grasp, buried it afresh, and covered it over with large stones for greater safety. The French lost in this day^s sport one field-marshal, seven generals, 12,500 officers and men killed, wounded, and taken prisoners, two eagles, several standards, and many guns (when we talk of guns we always mean cannon). We lost 6,000 killed and wounded, with four generals. Our troops marched one hundred and fifty miles in twelve days, just before the battle. Some regiments suffered severely; but the 11th and Gist could not muster at the end of the fight over 150 or 100 officers ?'nd men — all that were left to tell of noble deeds done on that hot day. Some 6,000 men lying in the hospitals of Salamanca, besides French prisoners also suffer- ing from their wounds, rendered it the abode of extreme misery. Officers sold their horses and what they could get a few dollars for to sustain life, and many died of want and wounds — in plain language, starved to death from neglect, the reward of devotion and courage unequalled in the annals of Great Britain ! There was no getting quit of these Frenchmen, they multi- plied and formed new armies, always on the trot, like locusts, eating up all before them. The order of the day with them was free quarters. They paid for nothing, and it was always an unlucky time for us when wo got in their wake, for they cleared out the whole country as they went along, the poor Spaniards hiding out of sight all they could put away. Sup- posing a brigade of French troops on the march to a certain town, where they would arrive on the next day, they sent an armed escort in advance to the alcalde, or head man there, desiring rations to be ready for, say 500 or 1,000 men next day; there was no alternative but that of providing for these plunderers, or taking the chance of their being let loose to help them- selv^cs. " Yo gentlemen of England, who sit at home at ease," YEPKS. 50 liow would you like such visitors along the coast of Kent, or in your snug little country towns ? We passed nearly the month of September in the pretty town of Yepes. It was the vintage season, and all were busy gathering in most delicious grapes and making their wine ; the people were very kind, simple, industrious, and happy. My regiment and the 28th were the first British troops that had ever paid a visit here, and we were welcome. The town was divided between the two corps for their separate quarters in this way : the quartermasters went on in advance, looked into each house, and chalked upon the door, "Grenadiers, 34th, ten men," more or less according to size and convenience, and so on until the whole corps was disposed of. All this was done without asking the proprietors a single question. The best of the houses were marked for the officers, one or more in each house, as there was room. The commanding officer had the best quarters of course, and went there at once. When the men were put up, all the officers assembled to choose their quarters by seniority. They were not particularly choice when my turn came. Once in possession, good or bad, no one's senior could turn you out if you selected your house according to regulation. I had an excellent quarter (that had been overlooked) as far as rooms went. My patrone was one of those old grandees of Spain, advanced in age, as well as his senora. I very seldom saw them, but the servants had orders to look after my com- fort, which they did in their own way. My table was served with grapes and sweetly-preserved melons. A loaf of bread and a big sausage would have been more in my way ; but I fared better than usual. There were many pretty girls in the town, all fond of dancing, in which we often indulged of an evening, until we became almost as one family ; in fact, every young follow had his sweetheart. The young ladies were charming, barring education; the priests took care to keej3 them in ignorance, and free from the trammels of overmuch learning, so that they were generally very idle, but fond of music, dancing, gossiping, and eating grapes and chocolate. However, wo thought our fair friends hero of a 60 THE ROUTE. superior race, and indulged them in every way we could. It was a terrible blank to those who could not speak their beautiful language. Our little evening dancing parties were not expensive; lemonade, fruit, and cakes was the usual refreshment, — all that we could afford, all that was expected. I was a great don in the dance ; knew all the figures and all the bofiitas. The weather was beautiful, and after morning parade wo had nothing to do but enjoy life in this paradise. With my rations and half a cow's head once a week I made out a living. I walked into the coach-house one day to look at two curiosities in the shape of the Spanish carriage of the olden time, and found on the seat of my host, the grandee, a hen's nest with seven eggs, which I put by for breakfast, leaving a white stone in their place, which the good old hen was kind enough to consider sufficient security, and called there every second day. Wellington all this time was laying siege to Burgos, and although not so strong as Badajos or Rodrigo, he was obliged to abandon it after thirty-three days' pounding and five assaults, with a loss of more than 2,000 men, thanks to the home mis-government not supplying him with the guns ho asked for and required. Surprising difficulties met this great warrior at every corner in his every-day arrangements, whilo straining every nerve to accomplish the very-work cut out for him by an English cabinet. Ho was always active, vigorous, firm in all his arrangements, with a wonderful foresight and conception, admirably formed for success, but ho must havo found a certain bad Government a scourge with a double thong. What a man of patience and perseverance ! This failure at Burgos knocked all our charming little arrangements to bits; we thought we had taken root in Yepes, being nineteen days undisturbed. An unexpected order came to ''march to-morrow." It came as an order never came before — most unwelcome. All was now hurry and bustle, to get the donkeys ready, and go and see our hermosa Castilian maids, and feel there was a farewell to M THE PARTINO. 61 peace and pleasure whilst a Frenchman remained in Spain. My washwoman, Mrs. Skiddy, came in with my two shirts, &c. " No money yet, Mrs. Skiddy ; I owe you a long washing- bill." " Och, never mind that, jewil, if you never paid me ; sure, you're always mindful of Dan on the march, and carry his firelock sometimes a bit when the crathcr's goin' to drap wid all the leather straps on his back, and nearly choked wid that stock round his thr apple.'' " Well, we march to-morrow, and so go and get ready." " worra-worra, march the morrow, and not a shoe on me wee donkey. The curse o' the crows be on the French j may they niver see home," and away she went, storming agin the French. When the unwelcome news spread over the town, the young ladies seemed to feel it most, and many of them, indeed, sadly grieved. However, we got up a dance the same evening, as a farewell party. I well remember it was not so joyous as usual. Before the evening was over, many a sigh and gentle tear was heard and seen sliding over pale cheeks. I passed very little of my time in the house of my grandee patrone. I was wel- come in another quarter, and my comrade and self promised our fair friends to come back and sec them from Aranjuez (pronounced " Aranwhays"). In the morning early the windows were crowded with our sweet young friends. " Adios, Seilores ! adios, Vi vm. con Dies ! " was heard till far away. I believe there were some very tender partings, for we never left a town in Spain with such regret. Our march was over a plain, about six leagues, to the nice town of Aranjuez, on the Tagus, where the country palace of Spanish kings has stood for centuries. Fine gardens and pleasure-grounds, and fishponds and statuary adorned this royalty ; inside the palace all those charms in which kings and queens luxuriate. We had permission to see everything. One room was occupied by mirrors from top to bottom, in which, if any person was shut up, he could never find his way out, so curious was the construction. Another room had its walls entirely covered with paintings — the exploits of Don Quixote, and so on. A few days passed here, when three of us young fellows 62 A SUEPEISE. agreed to go over to Yepes next morning at daylight, to pass the day, and sec our young lady friends onco more, according to promise. I was at my post in good time ; there was a rumour of a move, and so my two coves backed out of the trip to Yepes. Nothing daunted, I started oflf alone, and found a joyous welcome after my long walk across a burning plain. My dress was a scarlet jacket and white waistcoat — the Spaniards liked it, and I did not care a rush who did not. I made for the Caza Don Chaves, and ran upstairs without cere- mony. There was a great welcome, and, I believe, some kisses, and a hundred questions about Senor S. and twenty others, and why they did not come, &c. &c. I was almost swallowed up with kindness. Maria sat before me, with her raven hair so nicely turned back from her snow-white fore- head, her ivory teeth seen through her smiles, and her beau- tiful speaking eyes, listening to all I said so imperfectly. All the people in the town seemed to be attached to our men, who behaved so well amongst them ; they understood each other by a few words and more signs. An early dinner was being prepared, I was in the midst of enjoyment, and going out to pay another visit, when some one came rushing in, in great fear, saying, '' Los Franceses ! los Franceses ! 0, per Dios, Senor George, via vm." (The French are coming ! For God's sake, escape for your life — we are all ruined.) Another messenger — " La caballeria, la caballeria vieno \" All was now hurry, scurry, and excitement in the house to secure valuables, and hide themselves. I tried to compose the ladies by an assurance that they wero safe, but their fear of the French, of whom they heard so much, gave them great alarm, and they would not bo comforted. I have found ladies in general everywhere much alike in this respect, and I might add that the civillest person I ever met was a woman in a fright. A hasty " Adios, caras amigas," and I bolted out of the house — just in time, for the advance guard of a cavalry regiment sounded a halt at the top of a long street leading down to my friend's caza. In any other dress than a red jacket, I might have approached near enough to count their numbers and make a report, but my object now was to run for A ilETREAT. 68 it, and escape. I went off at a good round trot for a league or so, and tlicn, wet as a sponge, broke into a smart walk. I might be seen at any distance on this wide plain, and kept both eyes open. Here I met a pizafmo going to Yepes with a mule laden with wine. The wine in Spain is carried in pig- skins, tanned, dried, and prepared or the purpose, as in days of old Bible history (Matthew ix. 17). The bottles might have contained ten or twelve gallons each. I stopped to tell him the news, which seemed to stagger him exceedingly, knowing very well that the French were not in the habit of paying for their wine, nor drinking to the health of the Spaniards. The salutation of our allies, I well remember, was always, " Viva los Engleses." He said," Is there any of your army in Yepes ? " " None," I said ; " I am the last to leave," and explained as well as I could. "Lo sieuto muclio, Senor," he said, and began to open a bottle, the mouth of which was a leg of the skin, tied by a string. He had a tin measure, and filled me a bumper. " Drink," he said ; " you seem hot and tired ; " and I did with gusto toss off a pint of his hueno vino, and bid him God-speed. I got home just in time to join my regiment crossing the Tagus — one bridge on fire, and the other about to be blown up — a little later, and I should have been on the wrong side I The two bridges had not been destroyed more than an hour or so when the French cavalry approached, and sent their videttes down to the river to look after our locality. It might have been very inhospitable, but they received a very ugly dis- chai'ge of musketry from our rifiemen, who lined the banks under cover of the evergreen shrubs and bushes. I was in no good humour with them myself for routing mo out of Yepes, and so I paid into them some shots from a rest which, I fear, told what I intended at the time, although of all the sports in the field that of man-shooting I like the least. There was a good deal of pot-shooting across the water from our amateurs out of sheer spite, for we were all very a-ngry at being disturbed from our royal quarters. Our troubles were only beginning, but wo were in happy ignorance of all befoi'e us. When night came on, we all moved off silently from before Aranjuez, across some G4 MADRID. newly-ploiighed lands, wherein I sank to the ankles, until my sliort boots got full of sand and dirty water. When we did get into the Camino Real, or " royal road," there was a halt to let all stragglers come up. Fires were soon lighted and blazing bright. I pulled off my Wellingtons and my socks to get them quickly dry, and fell asleep, so dreadfully tired as I was after the long day's work. I never awoke until the whole army had moved away, and there I was all alone in the darkness of soli- tude. The fire had nearly burned out ; my socks pretty dry, but the boots very damp. I pulled one on after a painful difficulty — the other foot would not go home on any terms. Half on and half off, I limped on until I came up with my regiment at the next halt, fairly knocked up, but continued on till morning, when we pulled up at Madrid ; and there, on the bridge leading into the great city, I dropped like a stone, where I lay for two hours unable to move, footsore and weary. The day was fine, and a general rush was made into the town, when the bugles sounded the assembly. A general order was issued to serve out three days' rations and have them cooked immediately, and then to be ready to march at a moment's warning. The butchers were very expert at their trade; the oxen and fatlings (without any fat) were slaughtered, cut up, divided, served out, and in the camp kettles in less than two hours. I dragged myself down to the river, got off my boots, washed my socks, got up a fire, and fell asleep. Tom roused me up with, " The rations, sir." " Whaj have you got, Tom ? " " Somewhat of three pounds of beef with a big bone in it, orders to cook and be off again — sharp. I suppose them Franceses are coming after us — the d — I's luck to them ! " If my feet sometimes failed me, my appetite never did ; the dinner was not at all inviting when turned out on a tin plate, but it was all gone in twenty minutes, barring the bone, and I got up rather hungry, and put two pounds of the biscuit into my haversack for the next two days' subsistence. Fancy being in Madrid without a dollar in one's pocket to buy a loaf of bread or a sausage, all that I desired or cared for at that moment. However, I was now refreshed ; the bugles ^ MADRID. 65 Rounclccl, I rolled my blanket, strapped it on my back, and waited for the assembly call, when the 88th regiment, or Connaught Rangers, passed by as merry as larks, singing and cracking their Irish jokes, regular bronze fellows, hard as nails, and as ready for a fight as for a ration of rum. One fellow took a side glance at me and said, not in a very under tone, " I think that young gentleman would be better at home with his mother ! " I was very indignant at this remark, and kept it to myself; I knew they were a crach regiment, and esteemed them for their remarkable bravery at all times. > GG CHAPTER V. The Fictrcat. — Ready for Action. — Adventures. — A Surprise. — Hard Lines. — A Godsend. — Female Insubordination. — Mrs. Skiddy. — Short Commons.^ Fever. — Theatricals. — 1813. — Campaigning^. — Destruction of Burgos. — The British Soldier. IN Madrid was a junction of the wliolo Britisli army. Soulfc and his Lest generals were at our heels with 58^000 fighting men, 8 t guns, and 8,000 cavahy, a sad turn of affairs as we all thought at the time, and so began the grand retreat from Burgos and Madrid; a frightful scene of misery and death, continual slaughter, privation, and cruelty. Men, women, and children crowded around us, bewailing our departure, moving along with us in one great mass for some miles. We passed the Escurial, that celebrated palace, built by Charles Y., where his bones and those of so many kings of Spain were deposited with regal pomp. The great passeth away in his greatness, and a bit of a churchyard fits everybody 1 Many peasants lay dead by the roadside, murdered, but by whom we did not know, and I doubt i( any one cared, for death was so familiar in all shapes at tha^} time. We crossed the Guadarama mountains, and a splendid sight it was to see so grand an army winding its way zig-zag up that long pass, as far as the eye could see from the top step, in the far distance. The old trade was going on, killing and slaying, and capturing our daily bread. When we got on to the plains on the other side, and crossed the Tormes, wo expected some rest, a bit of sleep, and better rations, or some improvement in the foraging departuient ; but things got worse and worse. I had been feasting the last few days on some bullock's liver without salt, and hard biscuit, abominable feeding until people come to know what hunger really is. We got near to Sjilamanca, and bivouacked in a cork wood ; the oak trees too were large and numerous, and the acorns ripe and dropping from the branches. Wo were gathering, and roasting, and eating them all day, for THE RETREAT. 67 tlie commissary failed in issuing oar common ration of biscuit, serving out instead, a quarter pound of raw wheat to eacli man ; this wo pounded on a stone, and threw into the camp kettle with our beef, which thickened the soup ! Tlicre was a little bit of growling now and then, much laughing and joking, but no complaint. Queer music it was to see and hear an army sitting on the sod, each man with two big stones grind- ing his dinner ; but everything was sweet that came out of a camp kettle. It must be remembered that the British army had no tents, it was all bivouacking, i. e., lying out on the sod in all weather, like any other wild beasts, and always up and armed ready for anything one hour before daylight, and never dismissed until we could see a white horse a mile distant. This was always a very long hour, just unrolled from one's blanket to stand shivering in the early chill of a drizzly morning. We had to be always ready for a move, or a march, or a change of ground, or a fight, as the bugle sounded ; always on the qui vU'c, night and day, and much need too, for we ex- pected the army of France to be upon us at any moment. I bought a pony on tick just now, /. of tay ready for the poor crathers after their load an' their labour; an' sure if I went in the rare, the French, bad luck to them, wud pick me up, me an' my donkey, and then Dan would be lost entirely." She was a devoted soldier's wife, and a right good one, an excellent forager, and never failed to have something for Dan when wo were all starving. Dan Skiddy was not much bigger than his wife — short and stumpy, but with great bone and pluck, and of good character. I carried his lli'elock for him at times many a mile, when he was ready to drop, as ho said, with rheumatiz pains. 76 SHORT COMMONS. Our long and weary wet march of seventeen days came to an end at last ; during all tlie time I don't think I was per- fectly dry for twenty-four hours. Our Brigadier, General Wilson, an old man with a grey head, who rode a blind horse, was always very plucky in showing the men how to cross a stream. When they hesitated on its brink, he would dismount, walk in with the greatest nonchalance, and re- mount with his boots full of water ; but this practice did not agree with his years or constitution, '^and he died." The French did not get fat on our trail ; heaps of heavy baggage and broken-down soldiers fell to their lot, but little to eat. Our good paymaster, J , offered a poor peasant one day a doubloon (sixteen dollars) for a loaf of bread. He said, " Senor, I can't eat your gold; I am starving myself — so hard were we pressed at times for food. But these little incidents in a campaign were soon forgotten, and never entered into the columns of an English newspaper. We got into the mountains bordering on Portugal, and the army was soon distributed amongst the towns and villages in Estremadura, very celebrated for fever and ague. The little village of Caza-don- Gomez sufficed to give covering to my regiment ; bad as it was, we rejoiced at the change. I lodged with a very poor peasant in a very humble dwelling. Ho herded goats all day on the hills, was dressed in sheep-skins, and returned at night to the family meal, which he always pre- pared himself. It never varied ; a loaf of brown bread sliced into a wooden bowl, some olive-oil poured over it, then some hot water, and mixed up. He and his wife and children sat round with their spoons and kept time till the dish was cleared out. None of the party ever spoke a word until the evening meal was finished. In this humble way they lived and seemed contented. In their simplicity and poverty there was a cour- teous hospitality, such as never sitting down without asking rae to partake of their supper. I had a little sort of a bed in a recess in the kitchen, near the fire, where we all sat of an evening by the light of some sticks, a very taciturn party. I was hardly domiciled here when I was taken ill of a fever, accompanied by total prostration of strength and physical power. 1 don't FEVER. 77 romcmbcT how long I lay in tlio corner. The vegiraeutal surgeon came daily to see if I was dead or alive. He had nothing to give me but a kind and encouraging word. Men died here by the score for want of care and medical comforts. Poor Robert S and I were very great friends, but he had nothing but his carving tooh, blue pill and salts, and his good name, which carried him through an honourable life with success. I met him accidentally long afterwards in India in a choultry by the wayside, and years after I returned from the Burmese war we were stationed in the same beautiful canton- ment at Bangalore. We got a little of our back pay on account at this time, and I was able to provide some tea, sugar, and bread for myself, — all that I cared for. I got some of the goats^ milk for my tea, which I considered a perfect luxury. The rough edge was wearing off the winter, brighter days shining through dark clouds. Change of quarters and returning health cheered me up a bit when I thought I was left here forlorn to die in a jvel, but I was never forsaken ; there was a bright star above to guide and protect even the thoughtless and unworthy, and so far strength of frame and energy of mind had borne me scathless and uninjured through scenes of fatigue, and danger, and blood, and death. I had been pining after home in my long illness, but as health came gradually rolling back, and rousing me up, I soon forgot the feeling. I had sold my pony to pay for himself, and was again on my pins, a foot-soldier. There never was any objection to an officer keeping a horse and riding on the line of march, but he got no forage beyond the usual allowance — that is, two subs were allowed forage for one baggage ania al. When we came to a scrimmage on the line of march at any time, we quickly dismounted and sent our steeds to the rear ; if they were killed in action we bore the loss, besides having a better chance of being killed also. My regiment moved to another little village, just able to hold us all, and no more ; so we had it all to ourselves, and a pretty, cheerful little place it was. The people were poor, but very simple, honest, and kind in their way. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) /. 1.0 I.I 1.25 us 12 I"" 2.2 I '- ill ly 2.0 1.8 1.6 V] ^%^ /] A # y «^.> <^ 78 THEATRICALS. We got clear away from the S2)anish army for a time. Thoy wore incapable of any dexterous movement. No iliastcr s})irit was amongst them, and they continually worried our great chief with their apathy, intrigue, and dogged habits of indolence, faction, and violence ; their insolence and ferocity at Salamanca were infamous. One instance is well known : a horse, led by an English soldier, being frightened, backed against a Spanish officer, commanding at a gate. Ho caused the soldier to be dragged into his guard-house, and there dcstro^'^ed him in cold blood with bayonet-wounds ! There was nothing for it but counter- violence. Another Spanish officer wantonly stabbed at a rifleman, who shot him at once. A British volunteer slew a Spanish officer at the head of his own regiment in a sword fight, the troops of both nations looking on ; but here there was nothing dishonourable. Our kind, good, and amiable soldier chief, Creneral Sir liowland Hill, had {i little pack of hounds sent out from Eng- land at this period to afford some field sport to his division. There was no lack of the sly fox ; plenty of red-coats in tho field, and good horsemen too. Crossing a plain one day in full chase, Reynard disappeared all at once ; the foremost horseman had but just time to pull up at the edge of a rocky precipice, when they discovered poor Reynard and nine of the hounds below, all dead ! 'J'he General's head-quarters were at Coria, about two leagues from us; he encouraged any amusement likely to affijrd pleasure to his officers, and now he patronized an amateur theatre, which was very well got up. We had amongst so many regiments capital actors, scene-painters, and really a first-rate company. 'Jlio delicate-looking, pale-faced, slim ensigns, distinguished themselves in petticoats, and right well th< y })layed their parts. All wo wanted was an audience ! We had some very handsome Si)anish senoras, who looked on and laughed through their bright eyes, but understot)d nothing. There was one fair and beawi^uul Englishwonum always present, joyous and hapj)y, a charming rcpresentativo of those bright stars of Albion, whose j)resenco was always cheering amongst so many red coats, tho only lady at head- quarters, wife of 1813. 79 Colonel C , HilFs first aide-de-camp, vvho afterwards fell at Waterloo. After tlic play we all went iu our stage dresses to tlio General's supper-table, where we did enjoy ourselves to the full, a singular-looking group of painted actors and actresses. I can now see his good, honest, benevolent face shining with delight at the head of his table, enjoying the scene and the songs that went round until a late hour. He was the man who never could say an ill word to any one ; the Duke's favourite and most successful general. His sobriquet was '' Farmer Hill," while another was called Tiger C , and so on ; every General, as well as regiment, had a nick-name ; but there was a mutual confidence that could not bo shaken between the parties, and they, one and all, had the firmest reliance on Wellington. He never came near us without a cheer from the men that made the woods ring. When ho appeared, the men would say, " There he comes with his long nose, boys ; you may fix your flints.'^ My captain, Egcrton, or, as the girls called him, " Senor quatro-ojos, " or four eyes, as he wore spectacles, was a fine specimen of a Cheshire gentleman and a brave soldier. He had gone on General Hill's staff as chief aide-de-camp, and was aiway,^ my friend, until ho finished off his campaign, a general officer on his native ground. 1813. — Wo were very busy with parades and drills and field- days, and some little horse-racing in April. Large reinforce- ments of cavalry and infantry arrived from Kngland, and the whole British army was being reorganized by the great chief for the coming struggle. Our i-anks were filled up by officers and men, all " Johnnie Newcomes " of course, but were soon drilled into a new form of discipline, which rather astonished some of their backs. They v/ero men, chiefiy volunteers from the Militia, who seemed to have had a Icethi too nuich of theii- own way ; but that was soon drilled out of them, and they were taught that the first duty of a soldier is " to obey orders." Amongst the officers, a nice-looking hid, nannul Phillips, about seventeen, with June roses on his cheeks, stuck to mo, and wo ran in couples very happy during his brief campaign, which 80 CAMPAIGNING. ended on the battle-field in less than four months. I grieved after this lad very much, so young, so brave, so full of life and joy. Since we finished off the retreat from Burgos and Madrid there was great mortality amongst the troops, fever and ague prevailing ; I caught both, and suffered severely. There was no cure ; all the cJinrms the doctors got from the medical department at home was some rotten old bark intended to be mixed with some country wine, to dose the soldiers. Some fusty sawdust would have had the same effect ! Lives were held cheap, but they cost money, nobody cared ; " things will last my time,'' and the national debt will probably last a while longer ! On the 1st of May Wellington mounted his gallant steed, took a last look across the hills, and saying, ''Farewell Portugal!" headed his grand army to do or die in this campaign. Three of us young fellows clubbed up a little mess. I was the best provided of the party with everything, as my baggage got safe over the retreat. I bought another donkey on the strength of all subs being allowed forage for o)ie animal; and our kind and generous paymaster made me a present of a very pretty Spanish jennet ; and now I was all right and ready for the road, barring the ague, which left me prostrate every second day. The cold shivering fit first came on, nothing would warm mo, then after a few hours the hot or burning fever fit suc- ceeded, with a splitting headache that nearly drove me crazy ; the next day I was quitG well and fit for anything. We now broke up from our cantonments, and the very first day was my ague day, and somehow doubly severe. I suf- fered dreadfully ; unable to keep my saddle, I tied my horse to a tree, lay down beside him until the last fit passed away, and then followed my corps to the camping-ground ; some- times detained until long after dark, when my messmates were sure to have something for mo along with the tea, always a stand by and a luxury. We commenced this compaign with tents for officers and men. The mules that formerly car*" ^d the camp kettles now carried the tents; the old large iron cooh .g-kettles were put hors-de-comhaff CAMl'AIGNJNG. 81 and replaced by smaller tin kettles which were carried by the men in addition to their usual load. Captains had a mule allowed to carry a tent (and some company books, &c.) for himself and his subs. I had the fortune, good or bad, to be once more in the company of " Bloody Mick" of former days; ho had the politeness to say at the start that I mu/lit occupy a corner of his tent at iiiijht. I knew very well I had as much right there as himself; but the invitation was not so hospitable as to induce me to sleep in the same house with my gallant cap- tain. I preferred the outside, and slept under a tree on the sod for two months, when I was transferred to the Light Com- pany, one of the subs thereof being taken prisoner in a scrlm- inarje with the French. My captain (Fancourt) was a first-rato fellow, a fine and gallant soldier, always generous, hospit- able, and kind. I never left him afterwards ; ho was the best dressed man in the army, very fond of horses, and always well mounted. Joking one day with our Commissary B , he said, " I wish you would give me a little barley for my horse, I am very hard run over for a feed." " Do you see that sack-full there ? It contains rations for three mules for ten days ; if you will carry it to your quarters on your back you may ha/o it ; mind, no help.'^ Fancourt peeled off his red coat, made one great effort, got under the sack and carried it out of the store, through the town, to his quarters amidst hurrahs, — and " Well doue, old fellow, you have done the Conmiissary.'^ Ho dropped his burden at his stable door with a face as red as a peony with laughter and exertion ! He would have shared his rations with his horse at any time if hard pressed. Commissary E never made him a similar offer, although they were ever wod friends. The weather was very fine and very dry, it was rather agreeable sleeping under the trees at night although the dews were heavy ; to keep dry I generally cut a bundle of fine branches to lie on, rolled myself in my blanket, put my saddle uiuler my head, tied my bonny black j(innet to a tree, gave him the length of his tether to feed, and went to sleep niyself until the bugle sounded before dawn, when I Imd the night dew shaken out of my blanket, placed it as usual under u 82 DESTRUCTION OP BURGOS. my saddle, and marched away. The men were generally cheerful and full of mii-th for the first few leagues, when they began to labour along in silence until they reached the ncct lodging- ground to shake off their load for the night. Wellington led on his bravo army with confidence to a suc- cession of victories. We crossed the Douro and the Ebro in our lino of march, the army divided into many columns, and were not long in scenting out the enemy. I went on the Burgos road with General Hill; his orders were, 1 believe, to fight there or take the fortress. It cost us 2,000 the last visit, and here we fully expected another slaughter; but King Joseph B had not the master-spirit of Soult, whom ho disliked; as we advanced, ho retreated from Burgos. The castle had been prepared for destruction, and I was not sorry at being awoke one night out of my tired slumbers on the green sod by an awful explosion, like an earthquake; I drew myself up, half-asleep, into a sitting posture, and said, " Thank God ! there goes Burgos," and lay down again to finish my slumbers. But with tho castle three hundred souls were blown into eternity ! At the moment, I cared little for that ; such is war I From hurry or neglect, tho mine exploded before its time, several streets were laid in ruins, thousands of shells ignited and exploded and rolled about with destructive power; and so this great impediment in our way was finally removed, just as we could have wished, except the terrible death of three hundred of our enemies. In war, nothing so bad as failure or defeat, and this must have damped tho King's courage a bit. His brother, the great Napoleon, they say, used to tell him that if ho would command, he must give himself* up entirely to business, labouring day and night, just the thing ; he never was cut out for, as will be found recorded in his history; indeed, his cognomen was " Roi do Bouteille." He had a fine command, a great and brilliant army, an obedient army; but that soul of armies, the vund of a great commander, was wanting; // was all on our side, in Wellington's knowledge-box ! and nothing now retarded his progress. With an eagle's sweep ho poured his columns through all tho deep narrow valleys and rugged defilos, gullies, ravines and passes, amongst tho rocks. No- THE BRITISH SOLDIER. 83 t'ling even retarded the march of the arlillory : whore horses could not go nor draw, the soldiers did their work ; and when the wheels could not roll, guns were let down or lifted up with ropes ; and bravely did our rough veteran infantry work their way for six days, with unceasing toil, through those wild and beautiful regions. Our army, swelling in numbers, came rushing in from hill and vale and valley, like roaring streams from every defile, foaming into the basin of Vittoria. When the King was conjecturing about the quickest way to put the English army hors-de-comhaf, and at what hour he might consistently partake of the banquet he had ordered in Vittoria, Wellington was making Jiin arrangements to cook him before sunset. The 20th of June was my ague day ; I was wearied and worn with this horrid complaint persecuting me every second day for the last two months, but I was not singular ; h vvever, I stuck to my trade and resisted being left in hospital at any of the depots formed in our rear, — perfectly well to-day, to-morrow in torture, dejected and cast down. I lay under a tree, seeing my comrades pass away over the plain. Night came on, I rose like one from the dead and followed in their wake ; my chums had some tea ready for me, with something in the frying- })an, when I got into camp. We knew little or nothinfi" of what was to come off the fol- lowing day, except from our men, who were fixing their flints, chathnn- and talkinyf of the '' frojjf eaters " who could not be far off. They said they noffed them from their buckle and iulons ! I declined the tent accommodation, and slept soundly on the sod. We were all under anus right early in the morning, the rolls were called, all present, and nobody afraid ! It was a bright, warm, and beautiful day — the longest day — and a long day's work was before us, before the sun was to set on so many of the brave. We had scarcely advanced a league across the plain when we heard the riflemen on our left beginning the work of the morning; cheers through the ranks, iniiny jokes and quaint sayings ; there was great hilarity, buoyant spirit and cheerfulness, a determined resolve to fight to the front, and never say die. When the British soldier is G 2 84 THE BRITISH SOLDIER. let loose in the field with all his steam up, the difficulty is to keep him in check, to stop his onward rapidity. When he sees the enemy in his front, he fights for his Queen, fights for old England, fights for victory, and always wins. The British soldier is a queer sort of biped, fierce in battle, full of a child's simplicity and kindness when over ; he will tear the shirt off his back to bind up the bleeding wounds of his fallen foe, carry him away on his back to some quiet spot for medical care, lay him gently down, and divide with him the contents of his flask. 85 CHAPTER VI. Battle of Vittoria. — Victory. — The Purauit. — The King in danger. — A Night Auction. — Narrow Escapes.— Curious Booty. — The Wounded. — Maurice Quill. — Masteriuan. — Sir William Stewart. — The Basque Provinces. — The Alarm. — Warm Work. — The Wounded. TWENTY soldiers may give a descriptive account of a battle, all different, yet all correct ; it is impossible for one man to see the entire of a battle-field ten or fifteen miles in extent, even on the swiftest -horse. One intelligent, active mind can gather in a great deal from personal observation, and collect from other sources much information and truth, and unless a trutliful narrative is recorded in a journal like this, it is not worth the printer's ink. There was no man of our day could give a more thrilling descriptive account of a battle-field than the bravo and gallant veteran Sir W. Napier. The river Zadora ran through the whole lino of the battle- ground for many miles, and was spanned by seven bridges. It was about ten o'clock before wo (2nd Division) got into action. General Hill had 20,000 men, and moved them on the left of the French position, when we began with a sharp skirmish, and renewed the old quarrel. We soon began to warm to the old work, and matters looked serious. We won a hill on which the enemy were strongly posted; but at a severe loss. The Hon. Colonel Cadogan, commanding the 71st regiment, was killed here, wi'Ji many other valuable officers. We were gaining ground along the side of the mountain, when we met with a biting fire, and the battle here remained stationary for some time, until our General sent us more aid ; then, passing the Zadora, we won the village of Subijana-de-Alava, in front of General Gazan, and maintained our ground in spite of all opposition. There was a good deal of fighting in the church- yard, and some open graves there were soon filled up with double numbers; indeed, churches and churchyards were 8G BATTLE OP VITTOnrA. always a favourable resort for tins peculiar aniUscmoTit ; tliey were places of strength, and contended for accordingly ; and here o»r battle raged with more violence and contention. We had possession — nine-tenths of the law in battle — but, hardly pressed front and ilank, I thought we had killed more of our French neighbours here than was needful ; but as they cared little for life in their excitement, they would be killed ; and, as Colonel Brown said, "If you don*t kill them, boys, they'll kill you ; fire away." There were three great battles going on. The curling smoke in the far away distance and booming of guns showed that our comrades were deeply engaged with all the destruc- tive power at their disposal ; our wretched old flint firelocks would not burn powder at times until the soldier took from the pocket in his pouch a triangle screw, to knock life into his old flint, and then clear the touch-hole with a long brass picker that hung from his belt. Many a fellow was killed while per- forming this operation ; but the French had no better fighting tools than ourselves, so in this respect we were not unequally matched ; however, the red-coats got impatient and excited to be at them with the bayonet, and when the word was delivered, " Prepare to charge," the very hills echoed back the mighty cheer of thousands with an overwhelming teiTor, for the charge was irresistible. Upon all favourable occasions our men were let loose in this way to complete a victory. Our opponents never liked the steel, it was so indigestible, and at this part of the play the " En avant " was never heard, but rather '' Sauce qui iicut." It was now about one o'clock ; the whole line of the battle- field was in a blaze — guns, mortars, cavalry, and infantry displaying double exertion and courage to win the day. Seventy thousand brave men, not fearing death nor danger, on each side were contending for a kingdom that must be lost or won this day. Yes, this 21st of June, 1813, must decide the fate of S})ain. '' Morillo's" Spaniards displayed unusual courage, and fought well, himself wounded, but " Longa " would not move his troops when they were required at a very critical moment, just BATTLE OP vittor;a. 87 like the old miilo. Our troops plunged into the village of Arinez amidst a heavy fire of musketry and artillery. This was an important post. Fresh French troops came pouring down to the bloody work. The smoke, dust, and clamour, the flashing of fire-arms, the shouts and cries of the combatants, mixed with the thundering of the guns, were terrible ; the con- tinue as cries of the wounded for water were piteous, while the horseSjdistracted and torn with cannon-shot, were hobbl ing about in painful torture, some with broken legs, and others dragging their entrails after them in mad career. It was indeed a sickening siglit I never wished to see again, but my heart and eyes were since in time to be tortured with more dreadful scenes. As we gained this village and advanced, many guns were captured. It was a country of high corn, vineyards, wood and plain, ditches, villages, hamlets, anu the river winding right away down to the Ebro. We had now fought over about six miles of country, yet the French were not quelled nor beaten. General Ileille maintained his post on their last high ground, and made his muskets flash like lightning, while fourscore pieces of artillery, nearly all fired together, made a furious uproar that shook the earth, and ground our men to pulp before they had time to make the dash. Amidst the fire and smoke, the dark figures of the French artillery were seen bounding about, and serving their guns with frantic energy. This terrible cannonade and fire of small-arms checked our troops until the 4th Division came up ; they needed no introduction to General Ileille. With one long loud cheer, an electric shock to Frenchmen's nerves, this important position was won at a rush. In other places the battle was waged with fury and great energy on both sides. The day was not yet won ; it was the longest, and in every respect the most bloody day, that many of us had ever seen, but I had little time to think about it. A Spanish pisafmo told Lord Wellington that one of the bridges was undefended, and offered to lead any troops to it. A brigade was immediately sent forward, and while pass- ing over it at the double, the poor fellow at their head was killed by a cannon-shot. 88 vicToiJV. About six o'clock tlio whole of tlio Frciidi army was beaten back to their last defence, about a mile from Vittoria. Behind them was the plain, and beyond the city ; thousands of non- combatants, carriages, men, women, and children belonging to the host of the great arniy, were crowded together in wild terror ; our cannon-shot went booming over their heads, which threw them into a convulsive movement of distress ; they swarmed together, swerved, looked about for safety ; but thei'O was no hope now for the multitude or the army. They lost the day. It was now the wreck of a nation — of a groat army in all its power and pride and glory, led by a king, and the most efficient and accomplished generals of an emperor. Twelve hours ago the balance of military power on the plains of " Old Castillo" was about equal ; but there was a confiding reliance throughout our ranks in the skill of our great chief that never was shaken, and defeat was never named. Yet wo did, if the truth must be told, get rather a severe kick in one month after this by these very well-beaten Frenchmen, or by some of their relations or friends. The British army closely pursued the flying and shattered columns of the French, now broken and dispersed, until night stopped the chase. Never was there a more complete victory, and, as General Gazan said, " They lost all their equipages, all their guns, all their treasure, all their stores, all their papers — so that no man could prove how much pay was due to him." \ Generals and subordinate officers were reduced to the clothes on their backs, and most of them barefooted. The trophies were very numerous. Marshal Jourdan's baton, a stand of colours, 140 brass cannon, all their stores, carriages, and ammunition, their treasure, and prisoners too many to enable us to pay attention to their wants and safety. They lost 6,000 men; our loss was nearly equal, 5,170 j of these, according to returns, 1,049 were Portuguese, and 553 were Spaniards, our loss being more than double that of our two friendly powers. In fact the red-coats were always expected to do the real fighting business. British troops are the soldiers of the battle. TIIK rURSUIT. 89 The spoil was very grwit; it may be said that the fij^htin'^ moil wore inarching and fighting upon gold and silver, without lu'lping themselves. Fiv: rnHllnii dollars, ahandoned by the French and left upon the ground, were picked u]) by non- combatants and camp followers. There were little barrels of doubloons and Napoleons in gold, for the picking up, but rather heavy to put into one's haversack. The chase was so swift, and the men so excited, that but a few just stumbled over this treasure, nor Avould any man bo permitted to stop a moment if observed, yet a great many did fill their pockets, and haversacks, and huhturs with loose treasure just en pannant, and kept on blazing away like fun. Not a dollar ever came to our treasury as prize money, which the Duke complained ol ; but, as for this, it was no great loss to us tiuha, for we were always cheated of all but one-tenth of our share, and received that six years after the rtmnsuhir war, and fdurteen years after the first Burmese war. However, I only speak for myself; I know the time, and place, and amount I received, and the sum total did not come up to £20 ! My losses were more than five times as much. But to continue our pursuit : the wreck of the army was in full retreat, iluir contest ended; the allies being now ad- vancing on every point, cau rd their confusion to increase, the guns were abandoned, the drivers rode off the horses .at speed, the soldiers pressed wildly through a road half-choked up with the unfortunate refugees from the capital, and the vast number of vehicles which moved along with them in their flight. A scene of the most frightful disorder ensued ; the sun now began to sink below the western hills, and the last rays of golden light fell upon a spectacle not easily described. Bed columns of infmtry were advancing steadily over the plain ; the horse artillery were galloping to the front to open a fresh fire into the fugitives; t\\o cacalri/ charging along the Camino Real; while the 2nd (Hill's) Division, which, overcoming every obstacle, had driven the enemy from its front, was extending along the heights and lower ground, on the right of the British army, its arms flashing brightly in the fading sunshine of this ever-meinorable day (our arms 90 THE KING IN DANGER. now are brown ; in former days they Wore bright and gUtteriiif^ iu the 8un or nioonhght march). Never was a victory so complete, nor an army so very well thrashed and disorganized as this great French host. 'J'ho bright and warm sun of a Juno morning rose on three unitetl grand corps, all speaking the same language, perfect in every arm, admirably combined, and placed in a position of battle well selected and defended with batteries and breastworks, a river in their i'vont, and all the chancers of war in their favour. Night closed upon a pififul and helpless, broken-down, dislo- cated, and shattered rabble, hurrying away from the fatal field of their defeat. The day was ours, but one could not help feeling deeply for the helpless multitude when our cannon- shot plunged amongst such a crowd of humanity trying to esca])e. " jjiko the [Scottish monarch at Flodden (just three hundred years ago, 151.3), King Joseph remained to witness the ruin which his rashness wrought, but not to expiate his folly with his life.^^ He elfected his not very glorious retreat with dilHculty. Our dragoons overtook and llred at his car- riage, out of which lie escaped by jumping, mounting .a horse, and riding, harder than ever John ( iilpin did, for life and liberty, guarded by a strong escort. He made " i'ampeluna" that night without the value of a horn spoon of all his treasure. I ha))penod to be marching along in his track, and came upon his carriage upset in a ditch, and also seven waggons loaded with his personal baggage jammed up in a heap; the muloa all gone, soldiers excitingly engaged, their muzzles black with powder from biting the cartridge, and perspiring like hunters, all busily employed strip])ing the carriage even of its lining in search of something portal.'lo in the shape of the image and superscrijition of Napoleon. 1 never saw such handy fellows, so expert were they, that the whole contents were laid before the jnihlir. in about iifteen minutes for selection, or, as a Paddi/ of a Grenadier said, — " Come, boys, help yourselves wid any- thing yes like best, frlonged U) this robber king, too tedious to be inserted in this bill of faro ! I pit-ked up hastily a big sack, a cold fowl, a few maps, and a flask of wine, the sum total of all the pbunhjr [ touched that day, and rodo on. Wellington went i)ack to Yittoria about nine o'clock, still daylight, where all was panic and confusion ; every door closed, every lattice darkened, the streets funereal and des(;rte(l, whero two nights before ull was bj-illiant rnd gay. The game took an unlucky turn for r\\\ Spaniards of tlie Frencli party ; many of whom went off with the retreating rol)bers. The loyalists now began to crow, and received Wellington with welcome cheers. During the progress of the battle, over throe leagues of dillicult country, the long smnmor's day was spent in Jin unremitting succession of laborious exertions to attain this great end. It was not generally a night of repose. There was a grand general auction in the camp of every brigade ; the great variety of articles for sale was far beyond anything ever heard of, and if one was to attempt to enumerate them, would be beyond belief; liow they were picked up so quickly by lighting men, wluj kept their lighting place, would astonish the r(>ador ; but when an army iinds itself b(>aten and receives the word " sa.uv(! (|ui peut,'' away they go, d — 1 take the hindmost ; and as '' light marching order *' is the swiftest retreat, they cast away every- thing as they run, arms, ammunition, fii-elocks, knapsack, and an accumulation of ])lunder, whicli our men picked up in their advance. When they stumbled over a cask of dollars, in went the head with a ]>unch from the butt-end of a firelock; the cask then rolled over, an inviting spread, and every one helped himself and pushed on. 1)2 NAKIiOW ESCArKS. At this groat ni^ht fair dcjUars wore sold eight or nine f<»r a guinea, or a NapoleiHi — too licavy to carry ! In Spain the JJritiisli army were paid in old JOnglish guineas and dollars. 'J'lie 2 1st was my good day. 1 had no ague, but felt tired and excited after such a fight and a chase, for my horse was in the rear until the grand retreat began. It being now late, we halted for the night. I rode into a field of corn, so very high 1 could not be o])served; here I dismounted, sat down and ate my supper, provided Ijy the cook of his Majesty or some of his people ! I tied my gentle little horso to my leg, gave him a long tether, lay down upon my sack, and fell asleep, lout dn .suitt;. Now and then " Sancho '' would get to<^ far nil>bling at the corn iiud give me chuck. I pulled him in by the rope close to my bed, and soon fell over again in dreams of peace and lupine. 1 was very early astii', and found my comj)anion, cheval no!r, lying beside me ; he was a great pet and a handsome fellow. Saddled, mounted, and away t(j look (or my regiment which was scattered about with- out any regulai-ity in bivouac ; but Frreman'ii bugle, so well known to every 53 tth man, soon brought us all together, — no, not all, the prison of many a soul was broken up. My servants were generally in great luck, having their legs and arms broken by musket-shot, and none of them killed outright excej)t Tim Casey, and ho was only A/// ; but ho made a most horrible whilahiJoo about it, crying out, "Oh, mui'dhcr, V\n kilt entirely; \'\\ never see home — Vm ript u]) ! " holding his bloody hand to his stomach. ** Let me seo where you're kill, Casey; there is no munllui' here-; every- body kills everybody — that's the order." A ball struck one of his Ifuttons, turned olf, and ri])ped open the surface of his bread-basket from right to left without in the least sj)oiling his appetite. Andrew Orrell, one of my chums, was playing "hide-and- seek" with a French volligeur anujugst the trees. 1 told him ho would get a lumj) of lead that would stop his rations if ho exposed his long legs to this rillenum any longer (he was all h'gs and a long jjancashire tongue), ami vei'y soon was he hit something like poor Casey. The ball broke a trousers button, CURIOUS ROOTY. {)') turned off its course, whicli was intended for tlio " l)ull's-eye/^ went throuf^li liis Hank, and lodj^ed at tlie Ijackbone. I took out my penknife to cut it out, })ut lie made such an oration, I knocked off surgery, and went to my own ])usiness. lie was carried away, and caine back all right in three months. Lieutenant ]*all had a narrow escaj)e; a ball meant to go right through his head, was turned by tlio scale of brass on his cap, opened a furrow across his forehead, baring the bono and passing away on the other side. Poor A. B. C. (Allen Bellingham Cairns) was wounded, not badly ; yet he died afterwards. I got his watch and key — the latter as a remcim- brance — no remindi-r like a watch-key. I have used it ever since, upwards of fifty years, and it is as good as new still ; and, I may say, it has over since been a nightly remembrance of my old conu'ade. It was wonderful the nniltitudo of extraordinary wounds that men received. 1 felt a cui'iosity in their examination, attending with the surgeons at times (it was tlie j)rofession that I was first intended for, so many of my name being eminent men in Scotland) ; wounds in the feet mid in the groin were tlie most painful and dangerous. Lieutenant (x had both his eyes sliot out. Jjieutenant C nar- rowly escaped the same dreadful calamity; the ball passed close under the eyes, breaking the bridge of his nose, and spoiling his beauty. I have seen men wounded in every part of the human frame — some wounds most extraordinary and severe — and yet the men recovered I should hardly got credit for the relation, if 1 einimerated them here. The morning of the 22nd of June displayed the extent of the sjioil which the runaway Frenchmen left behind them ; there was a scene rarely to Ije equalled for many leagues about Vittoria — the wreck of a mighty army, and j)lun(ler accumu- lated for years, torn with rapacious and unsparing lumds from almost every province in Spain. Waggons, and cannon, and caissons, tumbrils and carriages of all descriptions, upset and deserted, a stranger 7n('laii//6/r, and away wo went down hill at a tearing pace. I never ran so fast in my life ! Here the French had another advantage, ratluu' a cowardly one ; they kept firing after us for pastime ; every now and then some poor fellow was hit and tumbled over, and many a one carried i.vc!t away; but wo'ro near, sir;" anike the gallant steed as ho A BAYONET-CIIAIIGE. 139 cliamps tlio foaming bit, ready for the cliargo, so was every man of ours in pain to bo let loose. A howitzer, witli a double charge of grape, went slap into their foremost ranks ; then one tremendous cheer, that only British soldiers can give with electric fire. '' Hurrah for old England ! " " Ireland forever and the Limerick lasses !^^ '^ Bonny brave Scotland, hurrah ! " '' Huri'ah !" from a thousand voices, as they dashed with the cold steel bayonet into the solid mass of human flesh before them. Writhing and quivering humanity lay over each other now in mortal combat, steeped in blood; the cannon-shot from each side crushing up the living with the dead and dying. It was a horrid sight, but not yet over. This broken column retired, and on the way lost considerably from our guns, which banged into them as fast as we could load. They went far away to the rear before they could re-form, while another massive column took their place and came on. The French always attacked in column. I think they were wrong, but they know their own business best, and upon this occasion gave us an opportunity of showing them an error, which they never acknowledged to this day. This last black, dense, great body of troc i came steadily on, encouraged by seeing our troops on fheir left give way, and losing their grand position, which might and ought to have been kept against very long odds. Lord Hill saw at once this alarming turn in affairs, and despatched part of his force to retard the progress of the enemy there or drive them back. We had not a man to spare. Another frightful and uncommon event occurred which nearly damaged our day's work. A brigade and a regiment were commanded by two nervous old officers who had no wish to be killed; they had most likely been reading that coujjIcc in Hudibras — "Ho that fights and runs away, May live to fight another day ; But ho that's in the battle slain, Will never rise to fight again." Cowards die many ■ times before their deaths — the valiant never tasto of death bu^ once. 140 THE GORDON HIGHLANDERS. Tlioy had a ticJiet of leave next day from the Duko, and were no more seen. I need not mention their names. As this great column of France came up, they were first met by a discharge of shrapnel shells and canister shot, which did not slacken their pace over the dead bodies of their comrades that lay in their way. St. -Pierre was the key, still in our hands ; to lose it all w^as lost. The Highland Brigade was under cover, in waiting for them, headed by the gallant 02nd "Gordon Highlanders," who led on the charge, colours flying, and their piper blowing out his national music to cheer them oil. lie was soon floored by a broken leg, but would not bo moved, playing '^Johnny Cope" with all his might, while the bkio bonnets, well supported, went into this mass with the bayonet and sent them back in utter confusion. This was to understand war. We were also successful on our right and left. The French couldn't do it ; they had enough for one day, and did not renew the attack. Two divisions which had been on the lino of march since daylight now made their appearance in our rear, and formed in line of battle, but were not required. Our ranks were terribly wasted, nearly all the staff had been killed or wounded, as also three generals. Lord Wellington had been riding hard from the time he heard the first gun in the morning, and only arrived at the very close of the battle, and declared that he had never seen a field so thickly covered with deatl. It was Lord Hill's own day of glor}', and it was recorded by the celebrated historian, Colonel W. Napier, that '' five thousand men were killed or wounded in f/iree Jionrt^, upon a space of one mile square." When the Duke rode uj), he shook our chief by the hand, and said, '^ Hill, the day's your own." Our men threw up their caps in the air, and gave one long, loud, tlnilling cheer, that echoed down the valleys amongst the retiring foe. And so ended the battle of the Nivo, which lasted five days, from forcing tho river on the morning of tho 9th to tho evening of the 13th. The days were short, and night closed upon the saturated field of blood, before wo had time to light our fires and cook the THE WOUNDED. 141 wretched ration dinner ; but still, with our half-gill of rum, after so long a fast, exercise, and excitement, it was an accept- able banquet. It came on now to pour rain like fury, and the bivouac was anything but agreeable, particulary to the wounded, among whom there was a multitude of huyts (as the doctors called them), great and small, from the amputation of limbs to the scalping of heads ! I don't knoNv if I was thankful enough for my escape ; I was not hit very hard and got off cheap. Three inches taller and it was all up ; an inch makes a wonder- ful difference they say in a mans nose, — life or death was to- day in the JiclfjJU of many a British soldier ! ll//t Dcceniher. — We sent in a flag of truce to the French general to say they might carry away all their own wounded men from off our ground, and we would bury their dead ; we had no hospitals nor medicos to care for them, and as prisoners of war they were not worth their rations. All was friendship and politeness now; our offerwas accepted, and a line drawn out between us. Some trees were cut down and laid across the high road into Bayonne ; our men collected all the wounded of the French, carried them down in blankets to this point, and handed them over. The sentries of both armies were planted along the line, not over six or seven yards from each other, as quiet and gentle as lambs ! The hill-sides were perforated with cannon-shot, some places like a rabbit- warren, and dyed with blood. Our little hamlet of St-Pierro was knocked inside out ; but if ever the French got a decided thrashing, they might have boasted of it yesterday, in sight of one of their own chief towns. This " labour of love," in pre- senting so many disabled and useless soldiers to their country, lasted some days, and no end to groaning and moaning until wo had them all removed. Two or three nights exposed to the rains left many of the unfortunates in a pitiable condition, for they had fallen in sand-pits, amongst brushwood, and in nooks and corners out of sight. The rains continued to over- shadow tho scene of desolation all about us, and not a blink of tho sun to cheer or warm tho bivouac for many days, our baggngo not having yet come up. We had no feather beds ; tho old pound of lean beef, a hard biscuit, and ration of rum 142 AFTEK THE BATILE. our banquet ; a cold sod and a sliower-batli our dessert ; Lard times ; but we survived them, to tell of yet more battles. Our sentries, and the I'roncli ditto, paced at the distance of a few yards from each other, trying to converse a little in their respective lingo's The officers kindly proffered their services in sending into Bayonne for anything for us that we required ; we took advan- tage of their civility. I got a piece of cloth to make up a new Sunday pair of inexpressibles, very much required, and a bottlo of brandy, for which I invested the few dollars in hand. The tailors were not all killed, and so I turned out very respectably dressed, but rather out of the fashion, in a week or so. Wo paid in advance ; there was no mistake, everything came to hand about tho hour appointed, and delivered at the outpost picket. The officers showed us tho bullet-holes in their shakos and clothes ; I believe we could do the same. They said we would all be back into Spain very soon ; the reply was, " Not before we see a little more of la belle France :" and realb'" there was not the least animosity between us, and I thought it very unkind and inhospitable to have any more of a quarrel ; but tho two great chiefs of the fighting cocks thought other- wise. Tho truce ended, sentries withdrawn, we gave our friends warning- to be on their guard, as we intended to pursue our campaign ; they took off their hats with an '' Adieu, messieurs ; au revoir ! '' and it was not long before we met again in mortal combat. My regiment was left in the shattered hamlet of St. -Pierre, to take care of itself and keep a sharp look-out to our front. Bayonne was just one league distant, full of French troops, and a whole army was concentrated in and about tho city, holding ft st their intrenched position, Sir John Hope in command. Vieux Mongucre, a little town on our right, on a hill just above the Adour, where Lord Hill quartered himself and his staff, all jolly follows ; they were not long thero before they got up an amateur theatre, and tho drama went on as in Estremadura in Spain ; our dear, rosy-faced Farmer Hill en- tertaining the wholo dramatis personcc at supper after the play. There was nothing about the war, except in some comic songs VIEUX MONaUERE. 143 composed for tlio occasion^ of how " He (Lord Hill) leathered the French." I had to walk home in the middle of the night, up to my ankles in mud, after the fun ; but I had a pair of wonderful legs for hard work day or night. We had little to do now for a long time, but listen to the attack and defence about Bayonne — bellowing of guns and waste of gunpowder. We had quite gained the confidence of the jieople: every thing- was paid for ; they were permitted to go into Bayonne with their sheep or their cattle as they liked, and soon found that the English were as equitable as brave, and that the word of a British general was sacred. All we seemed to want now was money, and a dollar was worth eight shillings. The battle of the 13th was hardly over, when Mother Skiddy came into camp, mounted on her wee donkey, calling out for Dan, " Has any ov yer seen Dan Skiddy ? he's not killed or wounded is he by them vagabones, bad luck to them -, sure Fd been up two days ago, only I was drowned crassui' that hit ov a sthrame, an' sure IVe niver been dry since ? " " 0, then, you're welcome home, Misthress Skiddy, how did you lave all behind you?" " Och, is that you, Paddy Muldoon? (ivourneen, it's me that's glad to see ye on your two Irish legs; I'm thinkin' you paid them off for the brandy." " Bedad, we gave them a great slashin', and not many ov us killed after all ; will you let me take ye off your charger ?" " Is our captain safe, and our two officers ?" " bo gar they are, only Mr. B had a bit ov a scalp and a bullet through his cap in San Pierre there, but they can't touch him, or Mr. Norton in all the fights and scrimmages we have." " But whore's Dan, tell me at ons't ? " '' 0, indeed, he's run away wid a French lady. he tuck in the battle." " An' he'll spake Irish to her," says Mrs. Skiddy ; " but no more ov your blarney, where '11 I find him ? " " Well, he's up there in the hospital-tent wid a broken leg, and got off chape if they cure him ; and there's Mr. Iligginbottom wid another cropper beside him, and there's Sergeant " '' 0, worra, worra, that'll do, let me go ; they're all kilt ;" and away she went bellowing to the shambles. We lost 300 officers the last five fighting days. Some of them had cut their way from Lisbon to be buried in France, Hi SPANISH INGRATITUDE. but tliGV were soon forgotten ; tliey had their day of glory, and a bit of a churchyard fits everybody. WelHngton had his hands quite full. The intrenched camp before Bayonne was very strong, the weather rough and rainy for troops on the qui vivc day and night close to a watchful enemy playing the sortie too often for ono^s comfort and patience, a game which ended by Sir John Hope being grabbed, wounded, and carried off to town- quarters. A terrible slaughter of officers and men took place also on both sides, without any advantage being* gained. It was said, and I believe it was very generally recorded as true, that our patient, scientific, and gallant chief was abused and libelled by the Spanish Government, with all his army. Their hostility and growing enmity were no secret ; we were all considered as invaders rather than friends ; the insolence and duphcity of their Minister of War were obvious. All this ingratitude and savage conduct troubled the Duke's temper a bit. In fact, he had good reason to rebuke Morillo for allowing or permitting the Spanish soldiers to plunder in France, and to commit violence on the people, which he en- couraged, from his savage, untractable, bloody disposition, hating Enghsh, Portuguese, and French equally. The poor French peasantry would have been entirely ruined without our protection. Sometimes they would take refuge in our camp or quarters with their bundles, even to escape from their own soldiers, and many of our own men were hanged for plunder- ing them. I never could excuse our soldiers for committing any such excesses. But 'tis true that they never saw their pay, and were half starved at times. Morillo, of course, sent a sackfull of lies by every post to his corrupt, imbecile, prejudiced, ungrateful Government in Madrid for the snub he got from his superior. Spanish pride was touched with the pen of justice and equity, and Spain is jealous and revengeful. No one complained if the Duke was severe in our own ranks, it was never without cause ; it was said that he was cold and careless of his officers. Some discontented men may have said so, but the truth was, no one expected reward for doing liis duty, unless for some very gallant and extraordinary ■Plifi SPANISH INGItATITUDE. 145 conduct — such as the loading a forlorn hope, when a stop oF rank was oxpoctod ; but there wore a hundred chancos to one against the daring heart that tried this game ; — yet they were never wanting to load the way when required. I sold my only donkey to raise the wind, and bought two nice little horses, on tick, at the sale of the effects of officers killed in action. A bill on England was always acceptable pay- ment, or the next issue of money the same. This traffic always went on briskly, and in this way were we supplied with second-hand clothes ! I was now ready for the road ; my head-gear had something of a warlike appearance all right for a five-foot-nine man — a six-foot fellow, and he was a gone coon. We sent our wounded to Cambo, on the Nive, where an hospital was established. My poor friend Allen B. Cairns died there ; he had been wounded, but not badly — what the doctors called " a hurt '' cost him his young life. I got his watch-key; I have had it, and that of another friend, in use for fifty years, and might say with truth that I never used them without thinking of the poor fellows. • We had a weary time of it now, since the December day that St. Peter declined to help the French to kill all the heretics in the British army. I have observed in all Roman Catholic countries where wo carried on war, that saints were invoked in vain to aid our enemies. It seemed as if they wore ashamed of the rags of Popery, false doctrines, pur- gatory, penance, &c., and all such absurd darkness. No, no, the saints don't hearken to such priestcraft. We had now done watching these vagahoncs, as the old woman warrior called them. They never came out to pay us another visit, so we went away to look after the grand army, and another fight up the banks of the Adour ; and somehow we always got on the right scent like foxhounds, and never gave up the chase until the whole pack was in at the death, Wellington being huntsman. On the 25th and 26th of February, our chief was examining Soult's position, which was a right good one as usual. It had the bend of a reai)ing-liook, and it was difficult for cavalry to L 146 ORTIIES. approach from swamps aud rocky ground. It was liigli ground above tlio ''Gave de l^iu," and near to Orthes, where our friend Soult received battle. Ho had a fine army, and his best generals commanding them, such as Drouet, Beilh , Clausel, Yillatte, Paris, Harispe, &c. There was a very handsome old bridge across the river at the town, fortified and mined. Above and below the bridge it was deep, and full of jagged rocks, and altogether a very formidable and dangerous place to run one^s nose into without leave. There was some little fighting in the advance towards it, just to keep up the steam. We lost twenty or thirty men, but that went for till. Early on the 27th the great row began. Wellington delivered battle (as old chroniclers used to say) to his warrior antagonist Marshal Soult, the favoured and favourite lieutenant of the Emperor. There were two valiant armies in the field, of some 40,000 men a side, besides cavalry and guns. Our approach to the French position on the heights was marshy and difficult, in somo places our troops sinking up to their knees, and the enemy above pounding at them in the mire — painfully provoking. But still this only braced their nerves, and made them more savage. Just now there was more swearing than fighting, for this part of the force wore struggling to get out of the mud, unable to use their arms. The cannonade and flashing of small-arms had now begun in earnest to echo down the river, through the town, and over the hills — all was in full play about nine o'clock, and continued all the day. The bold French rushed upon our columns with a wasting fire, and forced back our inferior numbers with unusually desperate valour, but our supports camo up and shfitterod their masses. The nature of the ground would not permit very many to bo engaged at this point ; so that little progress was made, except in deadly slaughter, in which the French had the best of it. Soult put all his reserves in motion, to complete what ho supposed must be a victory all hut gained, and 'twas said that he cxclaimod aloud, "I Imvo him at last." The moment, no doubt, was very dangerous, but Wellington's head was clear, and he had uio most devoted hands and hearts to aid liim, in the full assurance of another victory for old Euglaiid. soult's effort. 147 Amidst all this thundering din of battle, which shook the eai'th with violence, the Duko ordered Hill's division to ford the river on the French left, and get on their flank. It was deep to our loins. We slung the cartridge-boxes on top of the knapsacks, to keep our powder dry. The men linked arm in arm, to support each other in a very strong current. Some cavolry formed in the river above us, to break the force of the stream ; and so we all passed over unmolested, and marched on without halting for a moment, our shoes full of water, and our nether garments clinging to our bones, for none of us were very fat, but still in good working condition. The 4th Division gained ground, and secured a good position in the church and the graveyard (all ready for its victims). The French marshal now rallied all his forces to make the grand coiip that was " at last to have him." The thunder of the guns on both sides made the very hills quake. Our grand chief was wounded, with two other generals, lloss and Walker. After fording the river, we drove back the troops there, seized the heights, cut oft' the French from the road to Pan, and turned the town of Orthes, menacing the only line of Soult's retreat. When his troops began to yield, our army advanced with an incessant and destructive fire of musketry and cannonade, losing men very fast, for the French saw their own danger, and fought like devils. But, seeing their retreat l)oing cut oif by Lord Hill, we hurried on until both sides began to run. They ran for dear life, and we kept to their heels, until coming up pretty close, down went their arms, after that their knapsacks ; they got into racing order in no time, and endeavoured to make good their escape. ]3ut our fellows got amongst a regiment with long great coats, and now Paddy Muldoon had fair play at last, as ho said. I don't know how many of these " Parlca-voii.'! " he had caught by the tail, giving each of them a '' crack on the hig," as he termed it, pulling him down upon the sod, and tolling him to stay iJicre while ho was hot alter another, but never firing a shot at those unarmed. Sir Stapleton Cotton with liis cavalry got amongst them in :nioJher ([UMrter, and cut them down by scores. Upwards of T ^ 148 ITS FAILURE. 2,000 threw down their arms, and their whole army now dis- persed, saiive qui pout, leaving nearly 4,000 killed and wounded on the field of battle. When the French broke, they made a rush for the bridge, which was soon choked up with baggage, broken gun-carriages, waggons, dead men and horses, thousands pressing forward to this point of escape, our troops in full pursuit, and cheering them on to destruction, while a brisk fire of artillery mixed up the living and the dead upon it. Our guns soon got the range, and kept it up, tearing to shatters every living thing attempting to escape that way. The skeletons of late strong fine regiments dashed into the boiling river on both sides, amongst the jagged rocks (peeping above the current), hoping thus to escape ; but they only met another grave, nearly all perishing. It was an awful sight, as we passed that fine bridge, to see it covered with dead bodies and the clehrls of an army ; the wounded groaning in torment, suppli- cating for water, and it so very near. The Duke was so hurt, ho could not ride without pain, and so the pursuit was relaxed at sundown, wlien we gave up the chase, and then, weary enough and nothing in the larder, lay down on the sod, to dream of weeping and lamentation in England and France, our loss being 2,500 killed and wounded ! Cul lono ? i*.v 149 CHAPTER X. The Duke of Richmond. — Discipline. — Combat at Aire. — Victory. — Vic Bigore, — A Turn of Luclv. — Tarbcs.— The Combat. - Major Dogherty. — The Three Generals. — Adjutant Pcclcett. — A Cheated Stomach.— Toulouse. — Deserters. — Fighting with Stones. AFTER the affair at Ortlies the medicos had groat practice in carving". Maurice Quill was engaged with the French wounded a good deal, and while extracting a ball from the left side of an old veteran, he said, " I hope you don't feel much pain." "Ah,'' hg said, in deep emotion, "cut deeper, sir, and you will find the Emperor; he's buried in my heart! " I was looking on while he was taking ofi' the arm of another old soldier ; when done, he laid hold of it, and tossed it up in the air, crying out " Vive I'Empereur ! Vive Napoleon ! " — Such was the enthusiasm of those brave men. The Duke of Richmond (then Lord March) had served on Lord Wellington's staff during the whole war without a scratch ; he was a captain in the 52nd regiment, and, like a good and gallant soldier, joined his corps the night before the battle, to be shot through the body at the head of his company, thus learning by experience the difference between the labours and dangers of staff and regimental officers, which are in the inverse ratio to their promotions ! We never got a stop but by a death vacancy ; the cold-hearted, ungenerous, self-interested, arrogant directors of military affairs at home threw a wet blanket over young officers, unless there was a handle to one's name, court interest, or a hat-full of votes for a Tory minister I " What can ennoble knaves, or fools, or cowards ? Alas ! not all tlie blood of all the Howards ! " The Duke of J^ichmond was ever the friend of the old Penin- sular army; he was a true andgaihuit soldier, bravo and generous, and to liim the remnant of the ulliccrs of that uucom|uerablo 150 DISCIPLINE. army, so glorious to the arms of England, were indebted for the distinguished medal, bearing on clasps the names of numerous battles in which we were engaged ; he represented the tardy justice to our Queen, the fourth crowned head for whom this army fought so many battles ; and this noble and generous sovereign, best of all monarchs that ever filled an English throne, granted the request for all those victories achieved before she was born ! The Duke of Richmond him- self had ten clasps, and we gave him a splendid piece of plate to keep in continual family remembrance our love and respect for his manly and soldierlike bearing in behalf of the just claims of his comrades in war. The battle of Orthes added another laurel to Wellington's name ; io was another Sabbath-day's slaughter : somehow, most of our quarrels happened on Sunday; but I do not think that one in a hundred knew Saturday from Sunday, or Sunday from Monday, when in the field. We followed up our friends the next day as close as we could, sticking to them like a bur to a sheep's tail. They made every effort to shake us off with a forced march and in light order, having left their arms behind them. We had something to do as well in tinkering up our own broken ranks for the next scuffle, which was not far off. I believe, to do the thing well, an army ought to march twelvo miles, fight a battle, and follow up the fugitives twelve miles farther to gain a great victory ! I think we accomplished this more than once ', it was surprising to find how soon the French troops rallied and ma^'^ another stand after being dispersed and scattered like frightened sheep all over the country. The weather was now very fine, which was always cheery in the field, and we had some pleasant marching over la belle France, falling in at times with some of those domestic birds about barn-doors and farm-yards thatAvill not get out of one's way ; it was a serious matter to meddle with them or ruffle their feathers. A farmer did complain one day, after passing his gate, that ho was minus a goose ; a halt and a search was made, quite satisfactory to our honesty ; but these gobblers make such a fuss when out of their own element, rjoofii/ was COMBAT AT AIRE. 151 heard skirling and clapping her wings most violently, there was a titter mg laugh amongst the men, and an olio! Another search-warrant, and the farmer^s goose was discovered in a drum ! A drumhead court-martial on the spot, and the drummer got goose without sauce for breaking the law, all the people about looking on in amazement with their mouths wide open at the severity and justice of our discipline in an enemy's country. Our military law was severe but necessary ; hanging on a tree for theft and violence was not uncommon, the dead bodies being left there for the vulture. Lord Wellington's wound towards the end of the battle of Orthes saved the hostile army, and so they showed front again very soon at Aire. They always met us like lions ; but in the end it was hke hare-hunting; it may be that the French soldiers have a little more science in war than the soldiers of our country. The French look about them, and if they see their flanks being turned, or anything adverse to their forward movement, they consider it necessary to give way ; while the ragged old red-coats always fought away right to their front, so long as they could see a Frenchman before them, leaving their officers to do the rest. This '' grand Welling-ton " of ours, as the Spaniards always talked of him, had a conception for arrangement and j)romptness never surpassed, decision and immediate action in all his preparations. The best generals oftentimes grope in the dark, but Wellington's head was never under a cloud ; he was a horn soldier, while others were educated for the trade ; it is one thing to fight a battle without fruits, another thing to fight a battle with success ! We came up with the enemy again on the 2nd of March, General Hill in command of our division as usual. We fell on them at once ; the action was sudden and severe, and was nearly lost to us at one moment when General Da Costa, a man of no ability, attacked with his corps of Portuguese in such a slovenly, unsoldierlike way ; he was repulsed and driven back in a charge by the French ; as usual, we had to go to their aid. We had won the high grounds by this time, and spared two regiments, 34th and 39th, to tinker up the damage. Our men got savage at the Portuguese for giving way, and I believe 152 VlCTUliY. •would havG fired into tliem at the moment as heartily as int . the French. With one vehement cheer, with one powerf charge, they went slap-dash into the enemy's columns, and drove them back on their reserves ; but still they rallied, and renewed the battle with singular courage for fellows who had been whacked so often ; but it was all in vain, the blood of the old hricJis was up, and having now done so much, the whole division entered on the play, and with one great rush upon the poor French, General Harispe at their head, their ranks were broken, and we drove them into and right through the town of Aire. They crossed the Adour, broke down the bridge, and made their way into the clouds of night, leaving us their dead to cover up. About one hundred prisoners and a vast number of conscripts threw down their arms, and went away to their rr pective homes. They got very much into this practice when the army of France passed their doors, and was not likely to return that way. They lost some valuable officers. Our General Barns was wounded. Colonel Hood killed, and some inferior officers, i.e. some captains, lieutenants, and ensigns, small fry not worth talking of ! It was not the fashion in those days to regard the death of a poor subaltern more than that of a cavalry charger, yet many of the small fry lived to bo great fishes ; as to private soldiers, thousands upon thousands that joined the army from England were never heard of by their kindred or friends, dead or alive. They fought and they fell and were forgotten ! Before going into the town of Aire, I stepped into a house by the roadside to look for a drink of water, the day being very hot. The only tenant I could see was a very handsome young cavalry oflScer of ours, elegantly dressed, lying on his back, and quite dead ; he had been recently killed in an affair with French cavalry thereabouts by a shot from a rifleman ; the fresh blood was oozing from a bullet-hole in his forehead, and, like so many of his brave comrades, he died facing the enemy. It was a charming day to spatter the early flowers of spring with human blood. In sixteen days wc had marched nearly one hundred miles, passed over five large rivers, forced the enemy before us, cap- vjo maouK. 153 tured over a thousand prisoners, six or sovon guns, and maga- zines, and been cvcrywliero victorious ; let us now have a little rest to patch up our dndfi. I got into a very respectable house, where the good dame had some knowledge of humanity, and must have seen a starvation-looking face every time sho said to me "Bon-jour." I had not a franc in my pocket, and was too proud to ask for anything to eat. I had my rations, which did keep me alive, and one day a ham was sent into my room for my acceptance, which I finished off for. breakfast, even polishing the bone ; but I may as well explain that it was a goose-ham well cured, smoked and bronzed, the first I had ever seen j but they are common in that part of the south of France. The English army became popular in time ; all the supplies were paid for in gold by us, while their own army did not respect property. It was said at the time that Soult remarked, " I may expect to find by-and-by that the inhabitants will take up arms against us.'' I could see that the people rather liked the red-coats now, old prejudices were wearing out, our discipline was more perfect than the French, and everything was paid for ; but there was no resting-place for the soles of our feet, and so we took leave of goose-hams, and a quiet rest of a few days, to look after our fighting friends, and found them as usual well posted, and ready for action, at Vic Bigore, on the Adour, General Paris at their head, where he fought a vigorous little battle without any advantage. We soon slashed him out of his fine position at a loss on our side of 260 men and officers. Colonel H. Sturgeon, a skilled and accomplished officer, was amongst the slain, a great loss to our service, and much regretted by all who knew his worth. My comorado was out on picket to-night. I went to see him in the evening at his couiitnj house, just for the purpose of knowing personally if we might eat his share of the ration dinner or send it to his post;. I found him in a comfortable chateau, with a jolly gentleman lanrllord, who was preparing to make him very snug for the night. The cloth was laid for dinner, plate and wine on the table ; it was a beautiful sight and made me ravenous. I required no second invitation to bo seated and wait for what was coming. I supposed the good 154 A TURN OP LUCK. host consiclerod me a reserve or support to this outlying picket, sent there for his protection, as he thought, and gave me a welcome. My poor friend Mr. Simmons, the real officer on this responsible duty, went out every now and then to visit his sentries, being not very far from the enemy. However, wo had a real dinner and very good wine, so good that an extra bottle or two were discussed after the cloth was removed, and while the interesting subject of the war was talked over. The landlord was all on our side, perhaps from policy ; but it was all the same to us which battle he fought for this evening ; his cheer was good and we had no bill to pay. We praised his wine; it pleased him, so that he begged us to take a magnum bottle of his best to our camp in the morning, which he brought up from his cellar at once, and planted on the mantel-piece in full view. He then showed us into a handsome bedroom, with everything complete for two, and bid us " bonne nuit, messieurs." My chum could not indulge in the state- bed, of course, being on duty, so I volunteered to occupy it for him. He slipped out and away to the barn to keep watch with his men, and I peeled and slipped into bed quite bewildered. A grand French bed, damask drapery, fine po- lished furniture ; a swing glass, six feet high ; and such lots of nick-nacks and china ornaments ; a toilet, also, that could only be arranged by the fingers and taste of a French lady, but yet we never got a glimpse of a petticoat. I knew that I was safe, having an ojjicer's guard over my slumbers, so I tumbled into such a bundle of feathers I was nearly sufibcated. I had not been in such a civilized apartment, or in a bed at all, for two years and more j 'Lc, such a thing as they call a bed in England ! I thought the night passed away in about ten minutes. I was called at early dawn to have some coffee. I sometimes allowed myself five minutes to dress, but just now I was in a hurry to be off, and might have taken three minutes and a half for washing and all, all the time having my eye on the magnum of wine which I had in charge. Some one now bawled, " The French cavalry in the long avenue." All the house astir and in as mucli commotion as if the Russian army TAK13ES. 155 was upon thorn. I told them not to stir ; my friend ontsido soon stopped their progress, and having emptied a few saddles from behind the barn wall, the cavalry took the hint. A few shots after them put them full speed, and they never again returned to the " Chateau de la Eeine.^^ There was some brisk firing near at hand. I was rather out of place, so I buckled on my swords jumped out of a back window in a violent hurry, and away to my regiment, which I found ready to move, having just given some French patrols notice to quit ! In my hurry, alas ! I forgot the magnum, a source of deep regret to us for many a day. I was well chaffed, and deserved to have my grog stopped, but consoled myself in the charming thought of having passed a night of luxury in a chateau where I had no right to bo at all, and the remembrance of the finest omelet T ever tasted. I believe it is only in Franco they can make omelets and coffee. We called in the picket on ^mssant. The chateau and its people were respected and cared for, which was acknowledged by the kind landlord, and I have no doubt but that he lived free and easy ever afterwards from such visitors, for neither party ever returned that way. We had a respite now for a long time, i.e. from the smell of gunpowder, gradually feeling our way after our unsubdued friends. Some shins were cracked and heads broken here and there, little a fairs of no importance, too small for the butcher^s bill ! The weather was fine ; no place more charming than the south of France for a fight or a bivouac. On the 20th of March we came up once more with the " Parley vous" as our men continued to call them. My regiment halted in the pretty town of Tarbes, piled arms in the street, and waited for orders. The cracking of rifies was heard pretty sharp outside in the vineyards ; but here comes a cocked hat in a gallojD, so we may as well " fall in." " Colonel W , your regiment is to halt here till further orders. The men may get -under cover and be ready to turn out at a mementos warning on their alarm-post.^' A gentlo hurrah went through the ranks, every one happy but the 150 TllK COMBAT. Colonel, who wanted another fight and to bo killed, and tho most singular part of the play was that ho never was killed, but died in his bed like his grandmother. I was welcomed into a nice house in tho street. Wo all divided, and wero received with much civility, it being our first appearance on this stage. A kind Frenchman brought me a large metal basin of water and a napkin to wash the dust out of my eyes. I thought tho introduction very agreeable, and a preliminary of something for the interior department, as I fancied I smelt an omelet. Tho day was young, and tho people here dino early. I had my horse put up and savj hltn fed, and now for a peaceful and a pleasant day, as I rubbed my hands with delight, when that in 1 bugle of ours, as all called it, joining in the naughty word, sounded tho assemblee. There was no appeal against this music; there was a thundering cannonade going on not far distant, and so we were all out of the town in a crack, and killing each other in the usual way, secundum art em. Tho French had been driven out of tho town in the morn- ing by the 95th Rifles, the most celebrated old fighting corps in tho army, or perhaps in the world. They retii*ed to their position to receive battle onco more and try their luck, and bad luck attended them as usual, as Mother Skiddy predicted. • The action really now began, about twelve o^clock. IlilFs artillery thundered away on the right, Clinton^s on tho left. Baron Alton attacked the centre. Tho French General, Harrispe, was posted very strong on a hill, but was assailed most gallantly by some rifle battalions. The fight was brief and violent, a fiery combat muzzle to muzzle. Of course our men would not give way, so the French did. Meantime wo forced tho passage of the river and sent Yillatte and his troops away double quick. The country was now covered with confused masses of prisoners ; some tried to escape or hido themselves, others had thrown down their arms, crying out for quarter, while the wounded on both sides lay patient and still in all their agony. This part of tho country was flat, covered with vineyards. MAJOR DOGIIEKTY. 157 fann-liousoSj deep ditclies, and inclosures, not at all suitable for cavalry. But our pursuit was stopped by General Clausell, who had four fresh divisions drawn up in our front right in our path, and all ready for battle. He lost no time in opening upon us all his batteries. However it was now late, and night closed the scene upon all the combatants. Fight- ing for this day ceased, and in the morning the stage was clear, and not a Frenchman to be seen. We had lost a great many good soldiers, and a dozen valiant and most excellently brave officers. When the prison of the soul was broken np, the poor shattered shell lay there without burial, no kindred friend to close the late brilliant eye, or say the last leave- taking words — " licquicscat in ])ace." I lay down under a fig-tree very tired with the day's excur- sion (my horse, of course, being in the rear, as usual on all fighting days), and disappointed of enjoying the hospitality rcadv for me at Tarbes. - " We pushed on the next day after our beloved friends over the green hills of la belle France. Soult, we understood, was making for Toulouse, losing his young soldiers by the way ; for, as soon as a conscript passed his home, he deserted. How- ever, every bit of ground was disputed on our line of advance. Fighting was our daily bread, and I believe that officers and men went at it '' con amore," as they would follow a pack of harriers. When we came up with their cavalry yesterday, old Major Dogherty, of the i3th Dragoons, might bo seen charging at the head of his regiment, supported on his right and left by his two sons. Was not this a glorious sight of war and chivalry ? deeds of dai'ing and of victory too, bequeathed as an inheritance to the future armies of En^jland. A new race of younger men soon stepped into their saddles and their shoes because they had no friends ; no reward for the many and great achievements of this war. That terror of all tyrants, the prcs.^, had not the power, nor the pen, nor the freedom, nor the courage to speak out for the army as they have in the present day ; so all heroic deeds were for- gotten and left in abeyance, and clouds of darkness over- 158 THE THREE GENERALS. shadowed tlio lives of hundreds of brave men who died in obscurity, many of them personally known to myself. Our line of march was now directed on Toulouse, fighting our way and driving the rightful owners of the soil before us. A long wet day found myself and two messmates in a very comfortable and well-furnished chateau, of which we took pos- session for the night ; the lawful owners having run away in alarm, the house now fell into the hands of three lads of different nations. We held a council of war how it was best to proceed with honour and justice. It was quite out of the question to starve in a cook-shop, or go without dinner in such fine quarters. A couple of old servants had been left in charge, so we thought it best, like gentle visitors, to ask them politely to prepare some supper for three gene- rals ! " moil IDlcu ! " they began both together, talking threescore to the dozen, keeping time with a jerking of the head, shoulders, arms, and legs ; in fact, there was nothing in the house to eat or drink ; but it was out of the question to take the word of an old French butler, so we began the even- ing's amusement in our own way to forage. General Thomson and his servant took the outside of the dwelling, including the hen-roost; General Ttusscll the interior; while General Gr. B. got up a good fire, collected feather-beds and blankets, and made a grand shake-down for three on the hearth of the library, where he lay in luxury awaiting the foraging party. By-and-by the two Generals and their staf appeared with a very good supply. The cook and butler got out of their alarm, and busied themselves, like good allies, in helping to prepare the evening meal. The library was a large room with a wide fire-place, and good enough for all we required. A couple of fowls were soon roasting beforo our fire, a flagon of wine on the table, and sausages, with a yard of bread ! They make bread by the yard in this part of France, and sometimes in a ring as largo as a horse-collar. We all lay down by the fire now, quite cosy, our wet clothes hanging at the sides to dry, my little horse provided for, and all as happy as three kings, when that bird of ill omen, our Adjutant,'' raised the latch and walked in, opened his (( 1mm ADJUTANT PECKETT. 159 rostor-book, and warned me for outlying picket immcdiatchj ! "The men have fallen in and are waiting, 2:)leaso look sharp, sir ; I thouglit I would not have found you out to-night." " Well I'm very sorry you did find me, but you are always in luck finding mo when you want an officer in a hurry for duty ; be- sides 'tis not my tour for picket to-night." '^ No, it is not," he said, " but Mr. W can't be found, and you are next on the roster — you shall have an overslaw." No use battling with an old adjutant like Peckett ; precise and correct in every- thing regarding his duty, he had been an excellent sergeant- major, and always gave the time to a second. " What time is it, Peckett?" "Ten minutes and a half- past one, sir." Ho carried a load of a big silver watch as large as a turnip, which regulated the whole regiment ! Casting one glance at the fowls as they began to brown at the fire, I turned out in the rain, and banged the door after me liko thunder. I suppose I was in a thundering bad humour, but away I went in the dark about two miles with my good orderly men who never complained j reconnoitred the country as well as I could see, planted my sentries, and got the picket under cover in a brick-shed. There was a village in front, occupied by our cavalry. If I had been in my proper place, I ought to have been in advance of this village; but that was no business of mine. " Obey orders," was the order of the day, and the night too. I groped my way down to this cavalry quarter, called and requested to see General Long, in command of all the advanced posts here. He and his staff had just done dinner ; I touched at once on the valour of his cavalry by saying, " I am sent here, sir, to support you, — my men are close by, what are your orders ? " '' I don't require your aid at all," he said, '' you may go back if you wish." " Very good, sir, I will return, for my men are wet and weary after a long day's march." " But you had better have some dinner before you go, 'tis getting late." I hesitated a moment, thouglit of lioiiic, and the pair of roast fowls and fire-side ! declined the Greneral's offer with all duo thanks, made for my post, called in my sentries, and IGO A CHEATED STOMACH. away wo went quite jolly for our own quarters at a quick marcli. All this took up as mucli time as would roast a slicep^ but still I did not despond^ but kept my eye on the mess dinner, in the luxurious hope of coming in for a bone. But, alas ! when I got back, the two ijencrcds were asleep by the liresido where I left them, and the debris of the dinner on the table — some bones, a piece of bread, and the tail of a bottle of wine. I was horrified, and called myself a stupid donkey, anything but an old soldier for not sitting down and eating my dinner at the table of a real general, when I had the blessed oppor- tunity. I have not forgotten or forgiven myself yet, and thought, — Who li^lits to the end may win, hut douhly wise, Who knows the moment wlien to compromise, And for a bird in Imnd, forbe;u' to push A doubtful scarcli, for two inside tlie bush ! A ham and cold roast turkey just going from the General's table as I wont in — dry bones, the tail of a sausiigo, a morsel of bread, and a driblet of wine was all I (bund on my return. When dogs are liungry they go to sleep, — and so did G. B ! OfFagain thenext cock-crow, dodging ourGallicfriends across the country. They roll people up in wot sheets in Germany, and put them to l)ed to make them warm ; wo are generally kept warm on the lino of march, trudging along in our wet shirts, which dry on our bones when a blink of the sun favours us ; we had got into a rainy week. Our G eneral now crossed the Aricgo river ; and of course wo never did pass a river, or could walk peaceably over a green sod in Franco, without being insulted by a shower of musket- l)alls, cimnon-shot, or a dragoon sabre, ready to cut off a fellow's nose. Vide poor Captain C of the Buffs, who lost his nose and an arm on the same day ! Our dragoon sabres were sharp too, and left their mark behind them. AVe were now approachiug, at the beginm"ug of April, tho famous town of 'JV)ulouse, wIktc Marshal Soult had ])itclied TOULOUSE. 1(31 his tent, and hoisted his colours to make another stand, and another grand effort to beat Wellington ; but six years of al- most uninterrupted success liad engrafted a seasoned, warlike strength and confidence into the very heart and muscles of our soldiers that made them invincible ; they would willingly fall under their colours, and die in battle, but they would not be conquered at the eleventh hour, and so hero was another pretty (|uarrel just going to begin. My corps was distributed in some hamlets convenient to tlio river, where we kept watch, and kept ourselves warm for a few days, when the brilliant sun of France came forth to pay us a long visit, a most agreeable change which made us all very cheery. Wo had the big town before us; conjectures were innumorablc ; a thousand opinions iisucd every day from all raidcs. Our baggage was up ; commissariat supplies enough to feed the troops. We had ivine, rations, and everything but money ; still kept six months in arrear of our pay. But we knew that England was a good paymaster, and it would all come in a heap ; ome day, if one lived to see it. Tho liver Garonne, as every one knows, runs through Tou- louse ; the position was a valuable one for tho French Marshal. A town, not regularly fortified, but made very for- midable by batteries, redoubts, intrenchments, loop-holed houses, an ancient wall, tho river, and a canal; all these places were oniamcnU'd with cannon, ready to salute the British General on his first appearance before the city. The suburb St. Cyprian was protected by an old wall, very thick, with towers and intrenchments, loop-holed houses, and batteries in tho streets, all very nicely arranged to stop tho progresr of Lord Hill and his division ; this was our allotment in the part of tho play which was to como off' very soon, in tho teeth of General Keillo and two divisions of the French army. On tho 27th of March our brigade was ordered up from Murat to get over a])ontoon bridge at midnight; found tho river too wido for our number of boats, so gave that up; tried it again on tho JiOth, when a now bridge was laid — crossed and recrossed, and yet that did not answer. 1 don't know why, I was not in tho 1C2 DESERTERS. secret. It Avas a laborious work tlirowing over this bridge on a dark niglit. I was very tired ; about two o^•lock in tlie morning, tlie open door of a house which was close by invited me to look in ; an old rickety straw bed^ looking very Ucelij, stood in the corner, upon which I lay down to have forty winks, positively no more, but was fast asleep in the crushing of a musquito. Unlawful slumbers are never refreshing ; I had no business to be there. One is always jumping up and saying, where am I ? what brought me here ? I opened my other eye (soldiers sleep, or ought to sleep, with one eye oi^en), by the glimpse of a rush- light and found myself hemmed in against the wall by our Brigadier-General, the Honourable Sir Robert O'Callaghan, the biggest man in the whole division, snoring like a windmill. ''All right, little Boh (as he was sometimes called), if I have no business here, Pm sure you havcn^t, unless the pontoons are gone down with the stream. It is the first time I have had the honour of sharing a bed with any of the Lismore family. Bad luck to the fleas and all backbiters ! — Sleep on till I call you," saying which I cautiously crept over the giant, to put my wet boot upon the face of another deserter, and to tumble over a third on the floor. They both jumped up in alarm, and roused Utile Boh, who thought the French had him pinned up in a corner. I knocked over the glimmer for safety, leaving the trio in the dark to explain, if they wished, how they all got there while on duty ! I told this little anecdote to the dear old General long after- wards at one of his dinner parties at Madras, when ho was there as Commander-in-Chief, which made him laugh heartily, and introduced many of the old stories and anecdotes of the Peninsula — not in an old tent, but in a splendid palace. Ho was a brave soldier, and a powerful Irishman j carried a big- sword, and used it at times with great effect, slashing the heads of Frenchmen in the " Donnybrook Fair " style ; he would cut them down right and left, and upon one occasion, when his sword was shattered in his hand, he got hold of a big sJdllelah, and levl r^out him like a thresher with a flail, and never after- waril gave it up -it answered so well, ho said. But like the FIGHTING WITH STONES. 163 rest of tlio gallant band^ lie dropped into liis narrow cell, and was soon forgotten. There were many ways of meeting the enemy in combat, but who ever heard of an officer '^-oing into battle with a pocket full of stones ? It was ,: ort of pastime with a Captain Irvine, of the old " fexasiiors.''' Ho was a capital shot with a stone, and a very strong, able, active man, left- handed, who delivered his shot with such force and accuracy that he would knock a fellow into next week. He never minded meeting two or sometimes three Frenchmen, when they were detached ; pretty sure of knocking one down with a stone, ho sprang upon another like a leopard, and knocked him on tho head with his own firelock, and with one great, thrilling shout he paralyzed the third, and if he did not trip him up he fright- ened him out of reach, pelting him with stones as he ran. All this gymnastic play created at times roars of laughter amongst the men, for it never was done in a corner, nor for bravado. This brave Irish gentleman and soldier survived tho war, but never reached any rank beyond a captain. M 2 1G4 CHAPTER XL Battle of Toulouse— -The Ectroat of Ten Thousand.— The Fir.st Act.— Pro- gress of the Battle. — A Bird's-eye View. — Entry into Toulcuse. — Peace Prospects, — " The Duke." — The Duke d'Ano-oulenic. — Route for Bordeaux. — My Billet. — Rather in Luck. — Freemasonry. — Private Hostilities. — The Duello. — Home, Sweet Home. — Mrs. Commissary- General Skiddy. OUR men began to fix their flints and examine tlieir powder on tlie 9tli, as wc approached the town, and took up our quarters in front of St. Cyprian ; weather very fine, every one jolly, and the Vutlanders in particuhir cracking their jokes. " How the d are we to get over that big sthramc av a river to lea^^her them vagaboncs out o' that ? " says Paddy Muldoon, for ho wasn't kilt \ci. " 0, niver mind,'^ says another ohl cripple, who lost an eye on the Nive ; " tliat countryman av yours wid the long nose will show you the way when he's riddy." '^ 0, be gar, then, we'll not wait very long, for I seen him over here this morn wid our Farmer Hill, sp}'^- ing them wid his long eye-glass, an' he won't keep us waiting. But there's oceans on 'em dov/n there in the town pickin' holes in the wall, and fcnccn all the houses, so mind that other eye av yours ! " They were ever laughing and cracking their Irish jokes at the worst of times. The Duke crossed the river about fourteen miles below the town, on his pontoon bridge, with the Light Division ; and early in the morning he had formed his army. On Easter Sunday morning, the 10th of April, ISl-l, I was very comfort- ably seated in the library of a chateau belongiug to somo stupid fellow who had run away in alarm, leaving his hall door open. We were preparing a breakfast of fresh eggs and bacon, which were quarrelling in the frying-pan outside in the sunshine, when bang ! went the signal-gun, and Freeman, our trusty bugloman, sounded the assorabloo at once. Whilst the men were {.j'ctting on their ])acks and their arms read}', wo gobbled up tlio contents of the frying-pan, left our trnps in BATTLE OF TOULOUSE. 1G5 charge of our servants, fell into our places, and marcliod down to join in the Lloody fray of anotlic SabLath day^s unlioly work. It was very handy for us, not far to go, and all fresh as young colts. In twenty minutes we came to the scratch, and were hard at work fighting in the town, on the suburbs on the left bank of the river, where the enemy had two divisions under the command of Count Ileillo. It is always ugly, dan- gerous work fighting in a town ; so many holes and corners, hiding-places and loop-holes, where one may be picked off by an unseen enemy. This v/as just our case, fighting from house to house and from street to street, our men having their bones cracked, and dropping off at every corner. As the enemy retired, or were driven back, they fired the houses they left, to arrest our progress, not sparing their ovm property. Wo found in many houses the furniture piled up in rooms, ready for the torch. The streets were barricaded, and cannon planted at every entrance, pounding away at the first blink of £iny red coat ; but our men dashed on through fire and smoke, and carried on the Avork surely and gradually, for we lost nothing that we gained. Our senior Captain, Baker, had that morning got his majority, and was one of the first killed. He had come all the way from India to join our battalion. Other officers had been with the regiment in all its battles, and had never been hit for five years — such is the fate of war ! There was a furious row going on across the river, a tremen- dous crash of great guns and small-arms. The two Marshals had met, with their two valiant armies, and quarrelled ; they were always lighting and quarrelling. Saturday or Sunday was all the same to them, and here they were at it on an Easter Day, a festival of solemnity in all Christian lands, but not the least regarded on the lianks of the Garonne. The battle went CD on with desperate fury, both sides determined to win the fight. It was a charming day, and worthy of better deeds than -de- stroying life. We had the bravest, the best, the finest-dis- ciplined and well-seasoned army in the world; fighting was their daily bread — it gave theninn a])pctite. No otlier soldiers on earth had a chance against them in fair and ()})en ground; the Duke knew it, and let tbem loose this niorniug. 166 THE RETEEAT OP TEN THOUSAND. There was j^onndlng on both sides of the river in full force about noon, the French having all the advantage ; their two miles of position along Mont Eave being defended by iutrench- ments, breastworks, redoubts, and immense batteries bristling with cannon. Our side, too, looked as formidable. I never had, personally, any taste for fighting in the dark, or in the streets, although we used to practise the art of '' street-firing and retiring." All fudge ! The advance towards the French position ^vas very swampy and unfit for cavalry or the passage of guns. This alone would shake the nerves of any other man than Wellington, but, always confident, he relied on his own British soldiers. General Freyve, a Spanish leader, asked permission to have the honour of leading his troops first into battle. Granted — and away they went, 9,000 strong, with a good reserve, very resolved to have all the victory to themselves. The French began to torment them, as they advanced, with a shower of lead j they wavered, and rushed for shelter into a deep hollow. The French, now taking the advantage of war, turned out of their breastworks and poured volley after volley into the poor Spaniards, the bullets hissing through their quivering flesh and bones, until some 1,500 of them were slain. The rest fled as hard as they could tear, the enemy at their heels, until too near our cavalry, when they returned to their trenches. All this was very mortifying to the Duke, but the only remark ho made was — " Well, I have seen some curious sights, but I never saw 1 0,000 men running a race before ! " Sir Thomas Picton failed in his attack at another point, entirely from disobeying his master's orders ; turning a false attack into a real one, and losing thereby his chance of suc- cess, and 400 men and officers. Poor Sir Thomas never could bridle his ardour when he had a chance of a dasli at the French. But dashing in war means courage without prudence. We had now forct^d the first line of intrenchmenls and barricades on our side. The second we looked at; but it had such a very angry appearance that wo sliickencd our fire to THE FIKST ACT. 1G7 bide our time and listen to the music on the other side. The crisis was approaching with some good promise to the French, the Spaniards being utterly routed. General Picton had been repulsed, and our men, frightfully reduced in numbers, were making their way to the French position through a deep swamp tangled with many other obstacles, a heavy fire of great guns and musketry being poured into their teeth the whole way^ they not returning a single shot. What other troops in the world would have faced such a storm of death ? But they did advance, and met Taupin^s whole force rushing down upon them. At this moment some rockets were discharged from our side, got amongst the Frenchmen's legs with an unheard-of hissing, curving, serpentining, biting, and kicking noise that they never saw or heard of before. It staggered their courage and steadiness long enough to let General Lambert's brigade make a rush with a cheer amongst them, with such irresistible power that they went to the right-about and fled. Taupin was killed, and our people gained the platform. Soult, seeing this danger, brought up all his artillery to make a clearance of this little force, aided by double numbers of infantry. But the domineering courage of British soldiers overcame this obstacle, and decided the first act of the play. The Scotch Brigade and the Portuguese, with Marshal Beres- ford's division, dashed on next, scrambling up the hill ; all the breastworks and batteries in their front, pouring a wasting fire into their face, did not stagger their courage. The French yielded here for a little, but rallied and returned with their reserves, and there was an awful struggle. General Harispe encouraged his men, and fought with them with great vigour, surrounded the redoubts we had taken, and broke in upon the 42nd Highlanders ; this gallant corps fought so bravely against such long odds that there were but few blue bonnets left in half an hour, The fighting was desperate here ; our men fell fast and were soon reduced to a " thin red line " of old bricks. The French had the advantage from numbers and position^ but the British, regardless of numbers at any time, go in to win. Harispe and another general had now fallen, fighting like game-cocks. Our Gtli Division rushed on madly for a victory. 168 . TEOGRESS OF THE BATTLE. and kept the ground until the Frcncli left the platform. Soult_, seeing that the red-coats had won the day, abandoned the field, covered with slain, relinquished the whole of Mont Have, further resistance being useless, and retired into Toulouse. This was what I would call honest good fighting, face to face, hand to hand on the open field, the usual practice in the Penin- sula. On the other side we had gained a good many streets, and kept them ; wherever a head appeared from under cover it was in danger of being cracked with a dozen bullets. I had myself some providential escapes. Passing into a long, narrow, shady street, very quiet, and no one visible, a cannon-shot came whistling past my head so close, I felt the wind of the ball on my cheek, which luliift me round. I darted into a house in a jiffy, when another came bang after me, passed through the room, and fell from the opposite wall. My captain had just turned the same corner, when I warned him to look out, and only just in time to save his life, for which he blow me up, saying, " You never keep your eyes open, or you might havo seen that gunner at the top of the street, just waiting to crack your wild head." I peeped out at the door, and, sure enough, there he was, standing by his gun, ready to blow the match . I rolled his own shot out into the street, keeping my eye on him j but ho fired no more. One of our men saw him, and " made him lave that sure," as ho said ; for " I saw him fire on the captain, and only waited to creep near enough to pitch him over ! " Curious to see how the battle was going on over the river, I invited our Colonel, Worsley, to accompany mo for a belle-vue quite at hand. " Where are you going to take me ? " he said ; "remember every house is full of sharpshoolers, and if I follow you, it will surely be into their company." " Oh no, 'tis all safe j I have got a ladder here ; we will top this house and see a bit of the fight on the other side. Did you overhear a more terrific fire ? Like the Kilkenny cats, there will be nobody left soon." " Wliat about the cats ? " he said. '' Were you ever in Ireland ? " " No, never." " Well then, the cats in Kilkv^nny fight with a ferocity as savage as can- nibals. To try their metal two big tom-cats were tied by A bird's-eye view. 169 tlioir tails, tlirown across a ropo in an cinply rooiiij and tlie door locked. Next morning when Paddy went in to sec which of them had won the battle, he declared there was nothing left but the tail of the one and a bit of the flao of the other.'' '^Well done/' he said, 'that's one oi your own." "No, indeed it is not; it was recorded in Kilkenny before I was born, and they believe it there to bo a true tail." By this time we had clambered up to the top of a house, keeping a big brick chimney in our front, just high enough to look over to see some of the murder over the way, but had not long enjoyed the view when the brick-dust was knocked out of tho chimney by a shower of bullets, we not having calculated that our heads were not only visible, but the very shell of humanity exposed to be cracked like an Qgg. When the ostrich is pressed hard in tho chase he runs his head into a bush or into the sand, and considers himself safe ! I don't think we much exceeded the wisdom of this stupid bird upon this occasion of our curiosity. The next volley, which came fast, sent us away double quick rolling down, ladder and all, and nearly broke our necks. I got off cheap enough with a slight wound ; Colonel W ■ had his epaulet spoiled with a shot, and a ventilator made in his shako. We kept pounding away until night drew the curtain over a wide scene of painful misery. Multitudes of wounded lay scattered over miles of ground ; the agony and torment and shrieks and helpless condition of thousands found no relief for a long time ; hundreds died in the night for want of care . it was impossible for tho medicos to attend to half tho wounded ; tho living had a heavy day of fatigue and fighting with great excitement, but their hands and their hearts were up to their work, in spite of any reaction. The programme of the Easter Sunday was now closed ; tho men lighted the camp-fires and sat round them cooking and chatting over the ration dinner and absent comrades. Next day was a dies nan, i.e., wo had no fighting worth talking of. Wo kept all the town we gained, and the French kept tho rest. Wo buried the dead in sliallow graves. Both parties kept a sharp look-out on each other all day. I went 170 ENTRY INTO TOULOUSE. on outlying picket at niglit with instructions to bo wide awako, and feci my way at the dawn of day towards tho bridge if I met with no opposition. On the morning of the 12th, at grey dawn, I was feeling my way with the picket without opposition ; arriving at tho fine stone bridge, I found it barricaded all the way over with hogsheads filled with earth and stones and gravel ; walking over these, I came to the ponderous iron gate, locked and fastened with heavy chains. When the people saw me advance with my party of red-coats, they came down with good will, with crow-bars, and forced the gate ojien, and gave us a cheer and a welcome, so that I had the honour of being the first J3ritisli officer that entered Toulouse. Here I halted until my own corps came up ; we then marched in, colours flying, drums beating, all very jolly, and halted for an hour in tho street waiting for orders. In tho mean time most of tho officers popped into a cafe to get some breakfast. The win- dows and balconies were soon crowded with ladies, waving tlicir white kerchiefs, and throwing down amongst us bouquets of fresh flowers, as if they had sprung up spontaneously. Tho white cockade appeared as if by magic everywhere, although the French army had not been out of the town twelve hours. Wg fancied that we were now to bo left liere in this garden of Eden amongst sweet flowers and pretty girls that were smiling down upon our tattered red coats — vain imagination ! An atrocious cocked hat of an aide-do-camp came riding up with a smirk, saying, " Colonel W , you are to follow up tho enemy on the Toulon road with your regiment as quickly as you can. You will receive subsequent orders,^' and away he wont, after destroying all our hopes and pleasant waking dreams. I believe our fighting colonel was the only one who wished to advance in such a hurry ; and not to retard our progress a moment, he paid the breakfast at the cafo and hurried us off. The whole French army had taken to their heels in tho ni yht and filed through tho town. As they passed on they • broke down tho bridges over tho canal to impede our line of march ; but we never came up with them again, nor smelt the perfume of tobacco and onions which tainted tho air behind ^K^mm I'EACE ruosrECTS. 171 them. Wo halted at the Httlo town of Villefrancho, andthoro WO heard by an express from Paris that Napoleon the Clraud liad abdicated, and fliat the Allies were in the capital of la hello France, and all the rest of it. This was all very serene, and I believe joyful news to most of us, for in reality wo had enough fighting and marching and starving for a long time to come. At all events I thought/so, and was quite content with tho little share and small part I had in the campaign, having marched through Portugal, all over Spain, ond well into France ; having been in thirteen engagements with tho next best troops in the world, and escaping for three years out of the hands of the Philistines without any broken bones, a pro- vidential and rare occurrence in those days, vVhen one considers the rough usages of war, and that we loft in Spain and France the bones of nearly one hundred thousand men ; most of them blejiching in tho sun, after being picked bare by the vulture and the wo We now considered the war at an end, and began to enjoy ourselves in a fashion, jiroud of our conquests and the glory of our arms, a stirring sound am^p||^t allijswlks ; but war is never far away ; from man to i}^g0ery sni^iK^t insect, all arc at strife. After conquest one begins toylf^unt the cost. War is a great evil, and a very^xp on sivr trade. In this one England a*i expended more tliaja a^iundrecl millionsJterling money on her own operations, besides an immens^^xpenditure on Spain and Portugal. Her land forces JjKight and won eighteen pitched battles, besides affaires qjM combats without number, took four great fortresses by si^e, and sustained ten others. Two hundred thousand of the awGrny were killed, wounded, and prisoners. It was said the Duke of Wellington committed ftiults. Who over heard or read of a great commander making war in all things faultless ? He was a great general, with a patient foresight, a clear judgment, prompt and decisive, insuring the whole confidence of his army, and yet had to contend against the Governments of England, Spain, and Portugal ; all retarding his progress and casting dust in his eyes. All those sTV. .0.. \t IMAGE EVALUATIOrj TEST TARGET (MT-S) Y a / f/j f/- 1.0 I.I 1.25 12.5 2.2 2,0 IIIIIM lA mil 1.6 <9 ^ y] ^;. y y^ 1 72 • " THE DUKE." to whom lie looked for support were jealous and vindictive, even the Cabinet Ministers of liis own country ; and they say lio committed faults, — what were they ? England had no army until he made one. Ho landed in Portugal with 9,000 men, and beat back the armies of France to their own fire- sides. He had rare qualities as a commander ; he overthrew the great conqueror Napoleon, the swell and dash of a mighty wave, before whom kingdoms fell. If you fight for England you should alwai/s win, and what English general was ever so victorious as Wellington ? In summing up accounts and returns for the last few days, it appeared that wo had lost 4 generals and 4,659 officers and men, killed and Avounded : total loss of the French, 5 generals and 3,000 officers and men, ditto ; a useless and lamentable sacrifice of life. Napoleon having abdicated before the battle. A Colonel Cook and a French Colonel, St. Simon, had been despatched from Paris to make known to the two armies that hostilities must now cease ; these ofiicers were detained on the road by the police, near Blois, where the Empress Louisa was holding a court; and this officious detention cost the blood of 7,000 brave men, which flowed over Mont Rave and through the streets of Toulouse. My regiment returned to the gay city of Toulouse, where wo were quartered; the officers were billeted here and there through tho town. ^Tis all a lottery ; one may get into an hospitable house, another may find a viuegar-fiice of a land- lady. I was not over lucky, but my room was clean, and I lived as best I could on my in'omissory noio, the six months' pay duo, tho great sum of about £55, deducting income-tax, which was levied from the pay of the'junior ensign ! Tho Duke of Wellington established his liead-quarters in Toulouse ; there was no end to gaiety ; we wore out at balls, concerts, and evening parties; we had the entree into all tho theatres to any part of tho liouse for a franc; tho people seemed happy and rejoiced over the new order of things. The town had not sufiored in tho least durintr tho killino* and slaying outside, excej)ting on our side of tho river, which was phiudeioil, fired, and demolished by the French troops as they THE DUKE d'aNGOULEME. 173 wei'O beaten back. The Duko did not suffer a sliot or shell to be thrown into the city when hold by the vanquished troops after their retreat from Mont Eavc, and of course gained the respect and esteem of the citizens for his consideration and humanity. The Duke d'Angoulemo made his public entree into tho city escorted by Wellington and his staff, and all the dignitaries of the town and country. I went out with tho rest of tho cocked hats and feathers to meet him some distance off, being well mounted on a spunky horse, who woiutl be in tho front. He carried me, nolens, volens, alongside of the Royal Duke, when and where I was admonished by Sir E. P , and ordered to fall back ! I never had a very thin skin, and did not torment myself at this checkmate ; but I have known an officer who was so hurt by receiving a rebuke at the head of his regiment that he wont deranged, was placed in an asylum, and never recovered. He was a most excellent officer, and had his regiment in first-rate order, until he met this uncouth savage of an inspecting-general. Tho Duke's welcome home was echoed everywhere by old and young ; fresh and fair, aged men in heads of snow, all pressed forward to kiss his stirrup. All a mockery. Tho restora- tion of the Bourbon dynasty did not last long, nor was it desirnble ; the ration.al character of human nature was shocked in tho Protestant line by the mummery of priests and im- postors in the Papist Church. Popery was soon re-established, miracles (jot vp, confessions and processions and tubs of holy water supplied ad lihitum, to wash away Buonaparte trans- gresions, and begin a new score of bigotry, superstition, and blasphemy, — anything to fill the pockets of greedy priests. Tho hearts of tho poor people were expanded, and the change was agreeable to a class of mercurial bii)eds who went wild for a season. After six weeks of refreshing jollification, wo got the routo for Bordeaux. I was glad of the expected change of qiuirters ; we had a few days' notice to qnlty and lighten our baggage. I sold my three horses to raise tho wind and pay n>y debts. I did not realize for tho three so many dollars as one of them 174 KOUTE FOR BORDEAUX. had cost me, tlio market being overstocked with horses, mules, and donkeys, all at a fearful discount, every officer selling off. I was not very well at this time. I suppose a regular kind of life and a feather-bed did not agree with my former manner of life on the green sod. Our doctor recommended me to go down the river with the invalids in an open boat; barges were provided for the sick and wounded soldiers, small boats for small parties of officers, the weather being charming, wo required neither sails nor oars, so away we went, smoothly gliding over the silver stream, one man steering (it was hard work for the poor horses pulling up those heavy barges against the stream). We landed every evening at some village on the banks of the fine river to pass the night. The dames from the diffi3rent aubcrges made a rapid descent upon us the moment we landed, with such a clatter and noisy invitation to go to their respective houses, — everything so nice, so good, superior, and such moderate terms, — abusing each other all the time in the most disthujue fashion. We knew pretty well what was meant by moderate terms, all that they could screw out of famished pockets. After exhausting all their polite language, if it is possible to tire a French- woman's tongue, we took a peep into their respective shells, selected our lodgings, and made our bargain, — a necessary arrangement in France, and all over tho Continent, to prevent disputes, overcharges, and imposition. However, they bustled about with good humour, and made us all so very comfortable, that we would have remained there willingly for weeks if wo could. The situation was so charming, so peaceful ; no parades nor drills, nor a chance of one's bones being broken with shot or shell. How wonderful was the feeling of quiet; no trampling of horses, nor clashing of arms, nor tir-whit of a shell, or the whop of a cannon-ball, splashing the mud in one's face, or perhaps tho brains of your camarado. Three delightful days wo passed, on tho Garonne, and then brought up in tho 1 utiful town of Bordeaux, amongst fruit and flowers, choice >♦ mo, and nice friendly people — first MY BILLET. 175 stage, homeward bound — it all appeared as a holy dream. Our last run down was a short one ; on lauding, four of us went to a cafe and ordered breakftist — a good one, and no mistake. We were hungry as hunters, and were well served. Wo cast lots who was to pay the bill ; I was the Jonas, and it just cleared me out to a cent, and left me in every sense in light marching order. Not a penny at my command — let loose in a large city, full of I'lxury, frolic, and fun, I searched all my pockets in vain for a single franc to get a scrubby dinner, but it was no go j so I went in search of my billet. After roving about the nty for some hours, I found No. 2, Hue St.Colomb, — Monsieur Ducasse — knocked at the door and pre- sented my ticliet to the servant, who took it up for examination. After surveying me with wonder or adinlration, never having seen a red-coat at No. 2 before, I was received kindly, and shown up stairs to a suitable room, for sitting and sleeping in combined, and left there to look out at the window, to turn over in my mind how or where I was to find my servant and my baggage, which was reduced into so small a compass that he could easily carry it on the top of his knapsack, along with firelock and the rest of his war tools, for I had discarded tlie frying-pan and all the other camp toggery. I made a start into the town, without money or credit — nothing but an alarming appetite. I knew that I had my rations to fall back upon, but I could not find my servant, nor could ho find me — we were both lost. I rambled about in search of him for hours, and did not find No. 2 till late, when I was presented with some light supper of salad or vegetable diet. A round of boiled beef would have been more in my way, but I never saw one in France. The kind landlord now told me that I must never be out of the way at three o'clock — it was their dinner-hour. I must always breakfast and dine with the family, and bo one of themselves while I remained, or he would be very angry, with an emphasis on the word and a smile on his honest face — a friendly oft'or which I accepted with thanks. Particularly lucky I thought myself, as there was nothing in my t'epari- ment but the rations and a thundering appetite. I had 170 ILVTUEfi IN LUCK. permission to draw my rations once a week in a heap, which was scut to the kitchen of my Inntllord. The next morning I made my Jehut at the breakfast-table, after waiting about three hours beyond my usual time. An early tasse of cafe noir keeps a Frenchman alive until the dejenncr at eleven o'clock. I was introduced to Madame and the fair Clementine, not out of her teens, and the son, an agreeable young fellow, who spoke English a ledlc. We became great allies and corre- spondents for many years afterwards. I found my stray cooh and hutlcr, who was also a guest and lived in clover — nothing to do but clean my boots and study French in the cuisine. His name was Death, which may account for many escapes in l)attlo, he being the destroyer never to be destroyed ; but ho was a stupid fellow at any foreign language ! The young lady played on tho harp and piano, and was really an accomplished, pretty, bashful girl, who was sent to VI ass very often with her maid, and to confess her sins to a crafty old priest who might have excused her innocence. Thb absolution was required icithi)i the box, not from the simple child on its knees outside. They had little music parties of an evening; on one of those occasions a French officer came up to me and looked at my buttons, being, as ho said, familiar with the No. oi, and asked me if there was an officer named Day in the regiment, and if I knew anything of him. "Oh, yes! he was our Adjutant, but was unfortunately killed on the Pyrenees on the 25th of July last, when you paid us that most unfriendly visit." "Not so," ho said, " but was mortally wounded; I found him on the battle-field after he had been plundered, and spoke to him. He gave me the sign and token of a brother of our craft ; and, being a Freemason myself, I took him from that moment under my charge. I was sent to Bayonno with our wounded and many of your prisoners; poor Day was my especial care — I got him so far, and made his wasting life as quiet to him as possible. He wanted for many things that I had not in my power to ])rovido ; I got him cash for a bill on England, which I may say was duly honoured, but ho did survive over a couple of weeks or so, and was buried with Masonic honours." FliEEMAtJONRY. 177 This was the Jliiale of a good soldier; lie fell into the kind hands of a brother IMason, and was not left, as wc thought, on the field amongst the slain, to ho devoured by the vultures. I resolved, after hearing this little chivalric story, to become a Freemason if I got safe home, and I kept my word. The Brethren are to be found amongst all nations ; and if you can make yourself known, you may be sure of aid, friendship, and security ; and although denounced by the Pope as heretics and out of the pale of tJie Church, I can assure his Huliness they are the most loyal of her Majesty's subjects, stanch sup- porters of her Crown and dignity, and of the Church of England as established by law, and on this subject the opinion of the Pope is worthless beyond the Vatican. Our army was now encamped about seven miles from Bordeaux; and, as if we had not fighting enough, certain regiments were selected to embark for . merica, to begin a new war with people who could speak English. Our wise •law-makers at home were too fond of settling disputes in those days with powder and lead. The expedition embarked for New Orleans under the command of Lieutenant- General Sir Edward Pakenham, brother-in-law to the Duke of Wellington, an able and gallant officer who passed through the Peninsuhir war to be killed by an American rifleman from behind a bale of cotton. Our people found this a diff'orent sort of warfare; the cunning Yankee would not fight on open ground. He was a smart fellow at a pot-shot from behind a wall or from the top of a tree ; and, if successful on this occasion, he may thank those who planned the expedition and sent our best troops to land in his marshes to be shot down before they could get on standing ground. Brother Jonathan is a boasting enemy, a deep player at brag, talks of whipping the Britislicrs and all creation, and so on ; but sure to find his level sooner or later, even in his own country and amongst his own kin; a house divided against itself is likely to tumble to pieces. The rest of our army began to embark for England as ships arrived ; in the mean time there was much unpleasant work and bad feeling between French and English oflicers; both 178 PIUVATE HOSTILITIES. parties being so habituated to fighting, it seemed quite out of their power to give it up — like two game-cocks wlio meet on the same path, they must have a kick at each other ! There was a fecHng of deep jealousy against us ; we received much attention, and the ladies favoured the British officers with smiles, which made things worse. There were many quarrels, and the Duello came into practice; the theatres were crowded, and some of our officers were insulted one night by their anta- gonists. To insult one red-coat then was an insult to all, and so there was a general row, the French officers being driven out of the house. The next night there was a great muster of both parties, I believe for the purpose of renewing the war or opening a now campaign at Bordeaux ; the Frenchmen had their swords, the English officers none; the Irish gentlemen carried shillelaghs, as they do at Bally macrack, in Tipperary. Somehow a nice little quarrel was soon got up about some ladies who were receiving attentions from the boys of Kilkenny, every one of them nearly six feet high ; and, indeed, the sweet girls of Kilkenny, although not so tall, are very fine specimens of Divine art — so fair and so fresh — " Their cheeks are like roses, Their lip.s just the same, Or like a dish of ripe strawberries Smothered in cream." The French ladies, not appearing to countenance any but those big Irishmen, sharp words wore spoken against all red- coats, a great many frowns — swords half unsheathed and dashed back into the metal scabbard with a sort of clang of defiance — the blood of St. Patrick was roused ; those gentle creatures, whose trade was killing and slaying, did not require much fuel to get up their steam. One of the Fitzgerald's " Light Division," a battering-ram of himself, drew his stick half-way up through his left hand, and sent it down again with a bang on the floor, looking pistols and daggers. There were some sarcastic words ; then a shove and a scuffle, which soon increased to something like an Irish row at Donnybrook fair, when the Fronchmcu were banged out of the theatre whole- THE DUELLO. 179 sale. All this play began in the lobby l)Owoon the acts; anil, as the last of the blue-coats went rolling down the stairs, some one above cried out, " Exeunt omnes ! " and all was quiet. • Next morning was fixed for the JDuello, the general Jiiiah of such sports ; blood was spilt on both sides very freely, and ono or two gentlemen were qualified for a irakr. Preparations were being made for a great fighting field-day on the following morning ; but the whole of last night's campaign being re- ported to our Commander-in-Chief, hostilities were suspended by a general order, and all ofiicers prohibited going again to this theatre, under certain pains and penalties. The French officers were ordered by their chief to retire across the Garonne to their own quarters. In defiance of the general order, some of our officers had the imprudence to return to the same theatre, but found a sergeant there with a book to insert the name of any who insisted on going in; with one exception they all retired, and that exception was the senior captain of my own regiment, an old officer who ought to have shown a better example. Wlien the book was sent next morning to the Ad- jutant-General, Captain B was placed in arrest, and had his choice to stand a court-martial or quit the service. Ho. chose the latter and gave a step in the corps, a most unfor- tunate y/ji a /c, and deeply regretted by all his friends ; but the first duty of the British soldier is to obey orders ! My regiment lay in camp some miles from the city. I was too comfortable myself with my kind friends at No. 2, to mix in any of these broils ; their hours were early, and the family quiet and happy, nor was it my part to bo out late, so I stayed at home. The good landlord used to say to me every day at dinner, " No Ros-beff", Monsieur George ; " and the kind lady always gave mo Benjamin's portion at breakfast a- la four- cliettc ! My corps had nothing to do, so they did not want mo, nor was I at all anxious to leave my town residence. I went out ono day to pay them a visit, and to sec Sir Lowry Colo on a littlo private affair. General Colo was a neighbour of ours when at home, and always ready to do me N 2 180 HOME, SWEET HOME. a service, but wo seldom met; ho communtled the Uli Division of the army. On this occasion ho got mc leave of absence to precede my regiment going home ; my turn for leave was far distant, so I came the old soklier over my seniors ; but they forgave mo after much chaffing, such as, " We suppose that General C is going to take you on his personal staff, and, of course, you must go home for your cocked hat and feather." " 0, no doubt, old follows, lucky enough for the man who has a home to go to ; I will be happy to sec you all at my chateau when your time comes to be quartered in our country town." And the time did come in reality, and the officers, one and all, were welcome guests at Belle-vue, when I was far away, frying in the East Indies,in another campaign,and in another regiment. But here I am, still passing a day at the camp near Bordeaux, hearing all the news, seeing all my old comrades, the men of my company, and every one, as if I had been absent a year, every- body jolly, oceans of money, and no end to good living for man and horse ! An issue of six months' back pay in gold opened the eyes, and the mouths, and the hands, and the hearts of a whole army; the matter was how to spend it. Soldiers like sailors win their money like horses, and spend it like assos. There was no lack of wine-houses and restaurants, dominoes, pitch and toss : — Head, I win! — tail, yon lose! — anything to catch the penny ; so their thirty or forty dollars did not last long. " What about our old friend, Mrs. Commissary-General Skiddy ? " I asked one of my sergeants. " 0, be gad, sir, she's all right and fresh as a sliamroy ; there she is, sir, cross- ing the green, would you like to speak to her ? " '^ Yes, I will hail her myself. Hilloo, mother Skiddy, come over here till I look at you, and see if it's yourself or your ghost ? " '' Oh then, Musha, God bless you my dear, sure it's myself that's glad to see your honour alive, after being kilt on the top of a house in the great battle when I was away in the care of Dan. Sure they reported down where I was, you were kilt entirely ; but, my fcgs, it's right n\ ell you're look- ing, the Lord ])resari'e ye, and sure Dan was so sorry for yer honour, and said, ' how many's the mile you carried his fire- MRS. COMMISSAUY-GENKHAL SKIDDY. 181 lock for him on the long mnrcli/ for ho was sometimes bent, tired, and ready to ilJinqi ; an yo know, sir, when I found him smashed up in that battle at Saint Peter's, he says to me, ' Biddy,^ says he, ' I'll never march any more, for my leg 's bruck in two hcvcs, by that pagan that kilt me.' Well, sir, wh'jn the doctor mim to set his leg, it wasn't hrurhat all, only a big hole in it, but 'twas mighty sore ; an sure I have him here now as good as new. All the men as was wounded, barrin' the killed, cum up here t'other day ; would you like to see Dan, sir ? " " Surely I must see him before I go home, — I'm going to Ireland soon." " Is it to ould Ireland, sir ? sure that's me own counthry, the blessin' av all the saint be wid yer honour, sure it makes mo heart bounce when I think av bein' there agin." And wiping her eye with a corner of her very white apron, she ran away for Dan. He was a very wiry piece of stuflP, not over five feet three ; but able to do more work than two lanky fellows all back- bone and no muscle ; always at his post, and a great enemy to them vagahoucs, the French ! " Well, Dan Skiddy, I'm glad to see you looking so fresh after being IdUcd at St. Pierre in that big fight. You will soon be qualified for the pension, and we hope you'll get the shil- h'ufj." " 0, then good luck to yer honour, and sure it's your- self that would make it fifteen pence if ye cxd, for I marched a power in Spain, and kilt a good dale av the French, bad scram to them the vatjahoncs." *' Dan, avourneen, don't bo ciirsin' the fiinch now that we're done wid 'em j sure they couldn't help it, the crathers, bein' paid to fight for ould Bony himself." "Well, you know how they murdered my leg, Biddy." " Sure that's their nalth'r, dear, to murder every one av us, but the pace has made them quiet and civil now. 0, me back!" "What's the matter with your back, Biddy?" "0, yer honour knows how my back was bruck on the rethrcat from Madrid down to Portugal in the short days of winter rains, when everybody was lost ; but Dan made promise uiver to tell 182 MISTRESS SKIDDY'S STORY. any one, and there ho ififorciicnstmQ" giving him a sly look for permission to toll her story. " Yer honour minds how we were all kilt and destroyed on the long march last winter, and the French at our heels, an' all our men dropping an' dyin' on the roadside, waitin' to bo killed over agin by them vagabones comin' after us. Well, I don't know if you seed him, sir, but down drops poor Dan, to bo murdered like all the rest, and says he, * Biddy dear, I can't go no furder one yard to save me life.' ' 0, Dan jewel,' sis I, ' I'll help you on a bit ; tak' a hould av me, an' throw away your knapsack.' ' I'll niver part wid my knapsack,' says he, ' nor my firelock, while I'm a soger.' ' Dogs then,' sis I, ' you 'ont live long, for the Frinch are comin' up quick upon us.' Thinkin', ye see, sir, to give him spcrrct to move, but the poor crather hadn't power to stir a lim' ; an' now I heerd the firin' behind, and saw them killin' Dan, as if it was ! So I draws him up on the bank and coaxed him to get on me back, for, sis I, ' the Frinch will have ye in half an hour, an' me too, the pagans ;' in thruth I was just thinkin' they had hould av us both, when I draws him up on me back, knapsack an' all. * Throw away your gun,' sis I. ' I won't,' says he, ' Biddy, I'll shoot the first vagabone lays hould av your tail,' says he. He was always a contJirari/ crather when any one invaded his firelock. " Well, sir, I went away wid him on me back, knapsack, firelock, and all, as strong as Sampson, for the fear I was in ; an' fegs, I carried him half a league after the regiment into the bivwack ; an' me back was bruck entirely from that time to this, an' it'll never gut strait till I go to the Holy Well in Ireland, and have Father McShane's blessin', an' his hand laid over me 1 An' that's all the thruth, yer honour, I've tould ye." " Well, Mrs. Skiddy, you are a wonderful little woman, you saved a good soldier for yourself and the service ; all the regi- ment knows how well you acted on the march, where we lost so many of our gallant comrades ; you have been always a most useful person, well respected, and I wish you safe home to tlio green Isle, and a bafe meeting with your friends and Father MISTRESS SK1DDY*8 STORY. 183 McSliano ! But where was your donkey all this tir.ic ? " " Ocli then, yer honour knows when that murderin' villain shot our poor donkeys. I helped on the back of my weo fellow all that ho could carry, to save what I could for the poor women whose dead beasts were left on the roadside, and so I was left to walk myself, and carry poor Dan a bit ; the curse av the crows be on his fire-fingor* that shot the donkeys." I bid this wonderful structure of humanity a friendly fare- well, after squaring a long account with her for about a yearns washing and darning. She was reluctant to take anything, saying, " 0, sir, sure you always belonged to mo own company, an' you^re welcome to the bit av washing." I hope Dan got the shilling, i.e., a shilling a day pension for life ; but the Government of the day that wasted wi.,h unspar- ing hand England's gold in millions, passed off with a sixpenny pension the old soldier, bearing many scars, and very often with sixpence or ninepence a day for nine, twelve, eighteen, or twenty-four months, when it ceased and he became a pauper. The sinecures held in those days by the aristocracy and their friends and relations for doing nothing would have pensioned for life thousands of brave men who nobly fought for their country and their king; but the war was now over, and as tho historian, the great and gallant good Napier, said in his con- clusion, " Thus the war terminated, and with it all remem- brance of its veterans' services." * Fire-finger, — the fore-finger that pulls tho trigger. 181. CHAPTER XII. Adieu to Bordeaux. — On Board Ship. —Welcome Home. — Hero- Worship. — The Huiitinjfdou Peerage. — Life in Ireland. — Sounds of War. - Tlio Castle Guard in Dublin. -Tipperary. — Peace. — Life in (Scotland. — A Prize in Life.— Tlie Baby Major.— The 45th. I PASS ED six most cagroeablo woek.s in Bordeaux, MoiiHiour Ducasso ropoating ovoiy day at dinner, in his jocular way, " No ross-belV, Monsieur (Jeorge;'' but there was always some- thing equally good, if not better, and an honest good welcome. My time was up • now, and I had to say a very sorrowful farewell. The kind Ducasse took mo aside and ottered mo anv amount of money I wanted, saying, '' When you return to England, it may bo remittcnl at your convenience. I Inivo every confidence in tlio word of an Englishman." All this was touching liberality. 1 tlianked him sincerely and assured him I had plenty of money, more than I required to take mo homo. He urged me to giv^o up a military life and como to Jiorileaux; settle as a merchant, and give over figliting. I promised to think of it, and ex})rcssed an earnest desire, which I still feel, that England and Franco might live in peace and liarmony as good allies for n,ll generations to como; welded together they might stand against all tho combined enemies in Europe. Ho accompanied mo to tho ship, kissed both my cheeks, and wo parted for ever ! 1 liad a passage on board tho Stiltaii, a seventy-four ship of war, with the 71st regiment. I took my own sea-stock for tho voyage, according to tho custom of those times, packed up in hampers. In the evening I went below to get something to eat and a bottle of wine out of my store, when I found my jolly friends of tho 71st enjoying tho contents of my hampers and laughing immoderately at tho fun. " Ho, my lads ! " I said, " do you know that's my sea-stock you're pitching into ; ON DOAIIIJ SHIP. 185 fill T Imvc got for tho voyage. I suppose I must mess witli the cook for tlio trip homo, as you liavo emptied tho baskets, wine and all.'^ " Oh, never mind," they said j " come, sit down, havo something to eat, and make yourself agreeable ; here's your health and a bon voyage. Our moss is not yet open, so we took a dive into the iirst larder wo met." Tho whole of my prog at this time was being spread out on a, table in tho gun-room, the fellows laughing away and drinking my health all round. The party increased in niunbers and in appetite, until the whole contents were demolished in mirthful glee, for all were happy, cheerful, and elastic. Homo was in every eye; families and friends just in view, and such welcomes awaiting tho bravo on every hearth-stune in tho three kingdoms. I was formally invited next day to join their mess for tho voyage, having nothing left. Twenty-four bottles of wine I calculated enough for myself, but that only served my friends for their lunchLon. However, all came right in tho end, and we had a jolly party. We all had breakfast, dinner, and beds in the gun-room, five- and-twenty of us; it was one snUn-a-manijcv, dormitory, and bath-house, a very hotbed of devilment at night after the master-at-arms signalled " Lights out, genllemen." The very llrst night, when all was quiet and the old fellows snoring, a couple of young lads crawled about in tho dark with sharp knives, and cut down by tho head or heels all the swing cots in their way, spilling the contents on tho deck, at the risk of broken necks and of crushing all underneath. There was a general row now, much clamour, yelling, and laughter, as they came down aiixiKh on the liard boards. " O my head !" " My backus broke!" ''Is tho ship going down?" " My eyo is knocked out," says another. A fat bag of a paymaster came crash on tho top of me, as I lay just below him rolled up in my cloak ; tho only bed I had was a soft ])l!ink. I le nearly broke my legs. There was a deuce of a row amongst tho wounded, and much confusion, tho con- s])irators tittering in obscure corners, and screeching with convulsive laughter. Nobody being killed, this frolic caused 18G >' WELCOME HOME. more amusement than ill feeling next day, but to prevent a second edition we were allowed horn lanterns, with padlocks for their security, for the future. Our voyage prosperous and the weather fine, the sea-stock just lasted our time until we reached the Cove of Cork. Let go the anchor and exeunt omnes. The custom-house gentry were soon on board, but missed the opportunity of inspecting my kit, I having popped into a boat alongside and gone ashore. All my contraband was a few presents from la belle France. If liable to duty or not, I made no inquiry ; if I was cheating the Government, they often cheated me; so we were quits on this score. I never got any interest for my six months^ back pay. I booked myself at once by the mail-coach for Dublin, travelled outside all night to inhale the fresh nocturnal breeze, and arrived in the capital of the green isle at three o^clock p.m. next day, and found all friends well as I left them three years ago. I was a sort of a lion amongst my people and friends for some time, flattered and feasted over much, and talked to death almost day and night. I was considered a great hero, and never wanted a fair partner in the dance in the many gay evenings I passed here ; but I longed for home, " sweet home,^' my own dear home ; and away I went — the way I came, in the same old coach, with an additional pair of horses, the two guards in their new scarlet royal liveries, sounding their horns as they passed out of the General Post- office yard at seven o'clock p.m. Next day I was met by my brothers on the way, and at the end of the long avenue by my father, mother, and sisters with such a welcome. Bonfires blazed on the hills all night, kept up by the tenants, who were regaled with whisky. Nothing of this kind is well done in Ireland without whisky ! When Paddy buries his wife or his mother, or, indeed, any of his kin, the funeral would be considered a dry one without a dhrop of somewhat to soften the grief, and wash down the dust after the journey — sometimes a very long one. The women all yell together, or set up the Keenah, as it is called. They are generally divided into sections or subdivisions, and take it in turn. It is a very wild lamentation, but few tears are shed HERO-WORSHIP. 187 until tlio covering up, when near relatives of the woman-kind open out in concert a fearful cry of heartrending grief and sorrow until the last sod is placed on the grave. Then all is silent^ and the whole party adjourn to a convenient shade to drink the health of surviving friends; a keg of whisky is broached, and the glass goes round until the whole is finished. They drink fair, there being only one glass for the multitude, which carries a butaper to each biped. A happy termination to any of those evening parties was of rare occurrence ; there was generally a row or a shindy got up as the whisky went down, and some broken heads ; or, perhaps, a very unlucky fellow qualified for a wake. When a boy, I used to enjoy the fun, particularly when there was a fight ; and I had plenty of opportunities, for the old Popish cemetery was situuted in an island just opposite our house. There was no getting there without permission to pass through our grounds and having the use of one of our boats. On a wet day the priest performed the ceremony of a Mass for the dead in our coach-house en. passant, and always used a bucket of holy water just from the pump to wash away all impurities ! I was considered a wonderful sort of a fellow just now ; there was open house for a week for all friends. I was in great demand, and looked upon as a sort of Wellington j always dressed in uniform, and danced with all the pretty girls in the country. I had no doubt a groat deal too much vanity, which was not discouraged j and, away from all discipline, I went wild for a season. My father presented mo with a \Qvy fine and valuable horse, and I made use of him in the Irish fashion, /*. c. riding across the country, practising for the harriers in winter, my brother Tom always at my heels on his gallant grey, the very best steeple-chase horse in the country. He was a far better horseman than over I was, yet I could ride well too. Wo formed a very nice racecourse a little way in front of the mansion, round a circle hill, and adapted it for flat races or steeple-chase. Our younger brother, William, had his horso too, and a right good ono ; ho had plenty of pluck, but was sure to bo left in a ditch on any attempt to go in for sweep- 188 THE HUNTINGDON PEEEAGE. stakes. The officers from the town (two miles distant) enjoyed the fun, and were our constant guests; they could ride, or drive, or come by water from their barrack gate j either way the scenery was beautiful, the whole country undulating, and the lough, or lake, " Erin " winding through a lovely country for sixty miles, studied with upwards of three hundred islands. Our home was rightly named Belle Vue. My eldest brother was too grave a character to join with us in our field sports ; besides, he never could ride or dance like a Christian. He was always tumbling off his horse ; but he had the ]icad of us all, and was engaged at this time with the Huntingdon Peerage ; and, solely without any other aid, ho established Hans Francis Hastings, Earl of Huntingdon, and the third peer of the realm. The peerage was long in abey- ance, and often talked of by Hastings, who was a constant visitor at our house; but he had no means to prosecute such an expensive affair as the claim to a title ; when my brother took it in hand, with all the expense and all the risk, and had all the glory to himself. It was a very romantic tale — too long to be touched on by me. The descent of the Earls of Huntingdon was from the famous outlaw Eobin Hood, who played so many wild pranks in Sherwood Forest six hundred years ago. We had a grand field-day when the news arrived, a feast and a bonfire, and never talked any more with anything but respect of the gentle- man who could never keep his seat in the pig-skin. Riding along the king's high-road one day with brother Tom, our horses ran away with us at full speed ; turning a corner, his horso came down with a broadside crash, splitting his rider's knee-joint open and displacing the cap, leaving a very painful and ghastly wound. "Is my horso much injured ?'' ho said. "Very little indeed; knees quite safe." ''All right; then I don't care for myself." After a painful struggle I got him into the saddle; and, reaching home, sent for our doctor, who sewed up the wound; and there ho lay for six weeks. When boys, wo two always ran in couples — seldom apart in fun, frolic, or mischief — we took a lead in manly exorcises. I LIFE IN IRELAND. 189 was a little more active on foot in leaping, wrestling, vaulting, and running; but he beat me in the hunting-field, kept close at the tail of the hounds, and was always in at the death. This was his pride ; he cleared fences that I would not look at ; he depended on the abilities of his noble horse, brought up and trained by his own hand, and he never failed him. How families get divided ! We took different ways — army and navy. His first expedition was to the North Pole with Captain Parry, where his ship, the Fur)/, was crushed like an egg-shell between two icebergs, and went down. All hands escaped on the ice, and were rescued by the other ship, Ileda. He went again to the North Pole, cul hono ? He sailed the world around, over and over, and maintained that he was better off than I, although he lived like a snail. He said that he carried his house on his back, and always had a bed at night, while the soldier is so often exposed to the open air, rainy season, and sleeps on the wet sod. — Chaciui a son rjoilt. It was a great many years after this that I met him accidentally on the beach, at Madras, at sunrise, while taking my morning walk, inhaling the sea-breeze. Wo were both amazed and charmed at this unexpected pleasure and singular adventrre, neither of us knowing anything of our respective localities. Our time was short — all here is shadow — all above is sub- stance ; everything recoils at death. My leave was nearly up now, when a friend at court offered me a recruiting district, which I accepted. It was but forty miles from home, and it doubled my pay. I kept a horse and dog-cart, took up my quarters at an Irish hotel on the coacli road, where I had plenty of room and little company. I very seldom saw any recruits, and had lots of time for shooting, fishing, visiting, and hunting. I was in fair demand amongst the few gentry about, who lived in the old stylo of open house, and keeping the family blunderbuss always loaded with slugs. The good gentleman, proprietor of one of those houses where I was so frequently entertained for days at a time, was shot dead in his garden one evening while taking his usual walk. I was horrified at seeing a pool of blood on the road side one 190 SOUNDS OF WAR. morning not a quarter of a mile from my quarters ; and, upon inquiry, was told it was "only the Excise officer who was killed last night ! " Those murderers were never discovered. I had an old uncle living some few miles off, where I was always welcome. I rode his horses after the hounds when I found him from home ; ho had a splendid garden, and always wore top boots. I was a great favourite at " Mount Prospect," the old house on the top of the hill, where he died one day at an advanced age, forgetting to leave me his heir. He had a nephew senior to me, and with another name, who inherited the broad acres. They made him happy — he lives there still and wears top boots ; not quite sure if they were not the very same boots uncle Tom wore during the last fifty years of his haclwloritij . I had a jolly time of it, until news arrived one fine morning, which spread like a grass fire on a prairie, that our old friend Bony had broken loose from Elba, and all the troops in tho world were collecting to hunt him down. There was wonderful excitement in every house, in every face, and soldiers went up fifty per cent, premium as the con- sols went down. All tho ships on our coast were in instant demand to carry an army over to Belgium. I threw np my appointment and joined my regiment in Dublin. One half of the old Peninsular army, that could do anything and everything human, had been already disbanded, so quick were the wise men of the State to pull down the pillars that supported the canopy of Enghmd for so many years past. Disbanded — dispersed, — not to be had at any price, yet worth millions if got together. Raw levies took their place ; brave, l)ut feeble and undisciplined, and, as Wellington said (and he was a very good judge), " The Waterloo army was the worst I ever commanded." All now was hurry-skurry, bustle, and get out of the way ; bugles sounding, drums beating, orderlies galloping, staff- ofiiccrs flying about and tumbling over each other, ammunition being packed, baggage put into store, artillery ordered out to the park for practice, grand inspection of cavalry, infantry men selected for service, all the weeds formed into a depot. ''the CASTLE-aUARD " IN DUBLIN. 101 the whole of the garrison in a deranged state of war excite- ment, all the soldiers joyful, all the fair sex piping ! Our baggag 3 packed and placed in store, the men were snorting for the battle-field ; but as luck would have it, for good or for evil, we were left behind ; so long waiting for oiir ship, which never came, we were left behind to garrison the capital of a warlike and mercurial country, that never could be left a single day without fixed bayonets. I believe some of us cried for very disappointment and vexation, but there was no remedy, the battle of Waterloo was fought and won without the gallant 34th ! If the Duke had had his old army with him, he would have won his battle sooner and saved some thousands of men ; as it was, he was saved by his allies ; but his soldiers fought bravely, he did not wonder on the 18th that he gained a victory, but he said he wondered the next day that he won the battle ! At this period, a dinner was prepared for the officers at the castle-guard, with an allowance of wine and beer, ditto beds and breakfiist ; but a system of economy sprung up all at once, and everything was curtailed, or diminished, or pared down so much that the captain of this Royal Guard declined the honour of this banquet when announced the following day ; the snhs followed suit, and the matter was reported to the general commanding the garrison, whose bile was stirred up to wrath. An order was sent to the field-officer of the day (who I'v/aya slept in the chamber allotted to him in the guard-house) to report in writing the cause, should any officer refuse dining there in future. It happened that wo gave the guard the following day, which mounted at four o'clock p. m., as usual ; Captain S told us that he intended dining at our mess before guard-mounting, as he had no idea of eating such scraps as might be provided at the Royal Guard. All backs were up, and we on duty prepared for a long fast. Dinner was announced at the usual hour by the contractor. " We have all dined,'' was the answer noted in the book and sent to the general. We were supposed to be punished by sending my regi- ment far away from the great city, the very thing we all 192 TUTEKAUY. ardently desired, and off we merrily marched to inhale the fragrant breezes of Tipperary, where the women were very pretty and the men always fighting. Paddy is the only man I ever met who fights for fun ; ho is, and was at this period, very unruly; there was no persuading him to keep the sixth commandment, nor the Sabbath-day ; there was a con- tinual strife between moral law and disorder. I was often on duty hound to see those unfortunate wretches standing on the drop, with the rope round the neck, making their " Last speech and dying words" to a vast crowd in their native tongue; where there was a wild wailing and lamentation — next moment, light or darkness awaiting. They were a wicked and untamable generation of bipeds, and no mistake. Land- lords were murdered for letting their farms to solvent tenants, or for ejecting those who would not pay rent ; houses were burned, cattle hocked, barns fired, and girls carried off at night, per force, to bo married ! There was no end to this savage nocturnal play ; priestcraft sealed all up with a pardon and a passport to and from Purgatory, according to payment! I had just taken my seat at our jolly mess-table one night, with a party of friends, when the Adjutant gave mo a private hint that I was wanted outside for a moment. " What^s the matter now? can't you wait until after dinner?" "Come with me," he said. Old Peckett was firm ; I obeyed with a growl. "A magistrate, sir, in waiting with a party; some foreupi Tipperary service which will spoil your dinner, I fear." Old Peck, as we called him, had had his supper by this time, for he was an early bird. After tramping away in the dark for a couple of miles in solemn silence, the J. P. informed me he had information of a party of .shanavats in the mountains, who had evaded the law too long, and he was going to vah them at last. " What have they been doing ?" I said. " Oh, just what they have been doing the last five-and-twenty years, making whisky, and getting drunk, and burning housdoads of honest people, and swearing in ribbonmen, manufacturing pikes, destroying cattle, and shooting their landlords!" I believed this to be all true enough, for a very near relative of my own, a magistrate of the county, a popular gentleman PEACK. 193 and excellent landlord, was shot dead by a hired assassin when returning to his house from the parish church on the Sabbath- day, at noon, and in the presence of many people. Not one of them attempted to arrest this demon; he jumped over a ditch, got into a wood, and disappeared. A reward of £50,0 was offered for his apprehension, but he never was arrested. This villain did not even know Mr. B until he was pointed out to him as the gentleman he was allotted to murder, having come from another county, by order, to do the job ! We crawled up a very rugged mountain, through water- courses and brambles, with caution and silence ; in the distance we could see a glimmer of light in a cabin, which wo surrrounded, and closed in on the nest of hornets; the light was put out as they heard our approach ; they rushed outsido ready for a bolt, but received the caution, " The first man that moves, we fire a volle}^,^^ and so we grabbed them all. The informer was kept out of sight, to save his ears, and wo lodged the innocent birds in the stone jug before daylight ; some of them changed their quarters soon afterwards to botanize in Australia ! There was plenty of hunting, and fishing, and dancing, and horse-racing, and all manner of fun in this golden vallej''. The red-coats expected to be the leading party in all amuse- ments, their buttons being made of gold ! My captain, a most liberal fellow in all things and a first-rate horseman in the hunting-field, being asked by a civilian, who was his banker and what was his income ? said — " A thousand a year ; 'tis very small, you know, but one can manage to spin out on it in country quarters.'' Turning to me, ho said — " Did you ever hear such an impudent question from such an oirisli gentleman? I have a thousand a year, but 'tis only for one year ! " Peace was once more proclaimed in all the Continental nations, which was to last for ever — vans vcrrons. Voor Bony took a voyage t*; St. Helena for the benefit of his health, and for the public tranquillity of the world, where I. called to visit his grave when he was quiet under the willow. Our army at home waB reduced by one-half. My dear old battalion was 19 i LIFE IN SCOTLAND. disbanded, broken up, and sent adrift. Some of the officers and men were drafted to tlio 1st battalion in India, to complete that corps; the rest of us got our conge without ceremony or thanks for past SQj'vices. I was most liberally provided for with a retiring half-pay of four shillings a day for the rest of my natural life at the advanced age of twenty-two by the generous and liberal Government of England ! ! There was a grand parting dinner before we separated, never to meet again at the same table. The happy and unanimous family circle dissolved ; the disperse was sounded, and Freeman, our chief bugler, might blow his loudest blast in vain to reassemble the old warriors, as he had done for years past. Alas ! it was a very cloudy day, but there is a silver lining behind every cloud. Never despair, young subs ; the spokes of the wheel of fortune follow each other so fast that all are uppermost in their turn. The drummer of my company, Morgason — a young fellow of excellent character — came with a tear in his eye to bid me farewell and to offer his services as one of my retainers ! I advised him to stick to his trade, and if we chanced to meet some other day, I might be able to do him a service ; and it so happened. I mounted my gallant steed for a 300 mile ride to the paternal home ; engaged Death to follow mo, and left Clon- mel, our late quarters, to begin the world again, in what way or in what capacity I had formed no idea. I was not fit for anything but being fired at in the King^s livery ; an idle life was to me at all times a life of slavery. I had no pursuit, and needless as yet even to try back into the service. There was a multitude in waiting who had prior claims, and hundreds who had no claims at all; but they belonged to the dress circle ! and left me far behind. I got restless doing nothing at home, and found myself about six months after date in Scotland, fishing in summer and hunting in the winter with Lord K ^s foxhounds — a generous, kind-hearted nobleman, who kept a fine pack, and in good style too. I was frequently his visitor. There were many other lords and gentlemen whoso acquaintance I made A PRIZE IN LIFE. 195 in the cliaso and in tlicir banquet-halls, but they all lived too fast for me. I could not keep time with gentlemen on full-pay ! so I gradually retreated from the hunting-field, and built a bungalow for myself on the side of a hill facing the sea and commanding a beautiful view of the country. I had a leaso of the ground for 999 years ; T asked for 1,000 years, but was refused, not being regulation. I had a pursuit now that occu- pied my time and attention for some time to come : a nice residence and garden. I laid out the grounds myself, planted my fruit-trees, had plenty of vegetables, milk and cream, and lived like a fighting-cock. In the winter I had troublesome visitors. The old laird would not grant any one permission to shoot, although I told him his hares were peeling my apple- trees, and the wild pigeons eating my cabbage-plants for breakfast and dinner ; so I took the liberty of shooting the wild doves from my dining-room window, and caught the hares in a trap. I was seldom without hf-re-soup and pigeon- pie for dinner, without going out with my gun ! The Earl of Douglas invited me to join his regiment of militia, he being the colonel. Ho looked so like an old warrior with his one arm, that I joined his corps as captain and got a handle to my name, thinking I was now at the top rank of my profes- sion. But I did not like this service, — all honour, but no pay, except for the twenty-eight days wo turned out for drill, and as I was a resident close by, I had the honour to entertain my colonel and his brother Charles, who was the major, — both excellent, kind-hearted, unaflectcd gentlemen as ever lived. Wo had established a mess at the hotel for our lunar month of military pleasure. With the exception of the field-ofiicers and three captains, all the rest were in the a^vkward squad, and somehow could not get out of it 1 I got a prize in the lottevy of life about this period; a high- caste, sensible, accomplished bonny Scotch lassie for a wife. She had a charming voice, and never lost it in all our travels. Europe, Asia, Africa, and America have each heard her sing the sweet songs of her native land I had been reminding the Horse-Guards every now and then that I was ready and willing to be restored to full pay at o 2 BD 19G THE BABY MAJOR. tho Shortest notice ! I never ^ot .in nncivil answer, but I novor received a direct one on winch I could place any reliance. It was always the same old story : — " Your application will ho taken into consideration with others, Sec, irJirti an opportunity offers.'^ I narrrowly watched the many opportunities that did offer and saw them filled up by lap-dogs who had never been across the Channel nor smelt powder. I watched the career of some of those noble fellows : they had a fine run in the service, topped the old veterans, became general officers before their time or their turn, and were pensioned for life ! This system of military distinction poisoned the hearts and the hopes of good service soldiers, who died in obscurity. " What noise is that up-stairs, nurse ? " said an English nobleman to his Scotch nursery maid. "0, iioth'iutj ava sir, 'tis jist the Major scrccJihing for his parrige.^' J ust so ; the major had a jolly time of it in the nursery, and no doubt was a Major-General before I got my company, for which I paid £1,100 regulation, besides A trifling incident often turns the events of a peaceful life into paths of trouble, toil, and danger. A party of the Gth regiment en route to Aberdeen marched into our town ; their drums and bugles set me wild. I asked the officers out to dine at our bnngalow. None of them had seen service, but expressed their disappointment, and wondered why 1 had retired so soon from the army. " I could not help it." '^ Try the Duke personally," said Captain V ; " no use in writing letters, they bring nothing." I started off to London to try my luck. The Duke of York, our Commander-in-chief, held his levees at night in the Horse Guards. Ho was a kind, affable person, encouraged young fellows to speak out boldly, and tell their tale. He heard me patiently, and seemed sur- prised that I had not been returned to the service, but gave me no promise. I went next to Sir Herbert Taylor,- to ask him if I might rely upon being placed upon full-pay, as I had many private arrangements to make. Ho said, " You may expect your wishes realized very soon." It was a great pleasure to have anything to ask or say to the military Secretary ; for there never sat at the Horse Guards TiiK 45ti[. 197 a more gentle, mild, nniiablc person, tli.in Sir Herbert Ttiylor. I Wfis soon gazetted to the loth regiment serving in Ceyhm, and had a month's notice to clear away out to that spicy island. kSharp practice for an indefinite period in the East. I sold my bungalow, only to rent another in perspective, and embarked on the Wtirrcn llastiiitis, one of John Company's trading ships, 1,000 tons, considered a large vessel at the time. Captain George Mason commanding. I had no choice of a ship. There was a contract for the troops, and the owners made their own charge for the ladies' accommodation ; they put me in for £250 — exclusive of my own passage, free of course ; but wu were all charged so much pt'i- diem for our board. Our masters in power professed to send us all free to our destination — 13,000 miles — a long way to find a six feet home. I don't remember that one of our men, out of 200 rosy-faced English lads, returned from India. Aly share of the voyage cost me personally £2 10, rather a dip into 76'. a day full pay ; a generous way of starting young I'eUows into an expensive trade so far away; but I had a wife and baby girl included in the bill. 198 CJrAPTER XIII. At Sea. — Mutinccra. — Breakers ahead. — Shark-fislun{,^ — ( 'rossinj:,' the Lino. — The Trade Winds. — Triiiconialee. — Its Scenery. — Landing at Machas. — Fort St. George. — A Journey. - Palankeen-hearers.-- Negapatam. — The Cobra.— Back to Madras.— The Route.— My Wile's Diary. WE .sailed from Gravcscnd on tlio 9th of April, 1825. Olio liuudrod and twenty days in a sea prison, with a plank between one and eternity, is a trial of patience ; besides the usual allowance of sea-sickness which I thought would never end, and for wliich there is but one, cure, and that is — never go to sea. Our troubles commenced in the Channel; there was a gale of wind all the wrong way, then a dense fog. The young soldiers lay about the decks so helpless, that the sailors were tumbling over them, which caused a bad feeling, hard words, and blows at a very inconvenient time, when every blue-coat was wanted at his post. l*igs lost all hope, and died liy the score ; the guinea-fowl all mutinied to a feather, .'iiid cried with one voice, " Go back — go back." The boatswain's mate fell overboard ; being an accomplished swimmer ho enjoyed a cold bath until picked up by a pilot l)oat. J'Jii passant, — every male bird should h^arn to swim. The wind came astern, and gave us a drive out of the fog into sunshine, and an orange climate, somewhere off Gibraltar, which very much cheered us all u/), and gave us a ivanii welcome for the first timo on d(!ck ; but there was a discontented crew, and mischief hatching below. The boatswain (named Jameson), a very powerful man, over six feet, caught the idea, " in his di'(>ams I suppose," that the ship would be a good prize, and he would make a better and bigger captain than Georgo Mason, a dwarf in comparison as to their respoctivo heights. Ho gained ovor two-thirds of the crow to a mutiny that ho had planned, which was simply this : to batten down the soldiers MUTINEERS. 199 in tho night between docks ; kill all tlio officers ; throw the officers of the watch overboard, before any alarm; tho captain to follow, and tho ship to bo their own. When this was being talked over in tho night down below amongst them- selves, one of our soldiers' wives, who was lying sick on her own side of the partition, heard tho conversation, and reported it quietly, which put us all on our guard; although tho little'captain pooh-poohed it, the chief officer, Mr. JDavis, who looked after everything as well as tho navigation of the ship, was disgusted with the character of the big l)oatswjiin, to whom he looked for support in tho management of a crow, not very select. They had some sharp words on deck at noon, there was a scuffle, tho big boatswain could not restrain his vi(jlenco, but seized Mr. Davis by tho throat, and nearly strangled him, before any assistance came to the rescue. The soldiers turned up, but they had no arms, and were all ordered on tho po(jp. Captain Mason turned out of his poop cabin in uniform, cocked hat and sword, to (vwc the whole deck, when tho villain Jameson made a dash at him, took him up in his arms like a l)aby,andwas intheact of throwing him ovei'board, when he was caught by the royall.sfs. I held him by the leg, others clung to him by tho skirts, Davis called aloud to the crew for help, but none came ; the quarter- master left the wheel, tho ship ran up in tho wind, tho sails began to llap, and I believe it was the look of tho two hundred rod-coats on the poop that kept tho crew out of tho struggle, but not ono of them would obey orders. However we had a strong party of our own now, as tho mutiny fortunately broko out in daylight. Ono of our side, the '^ master-at-arms," as ho is called, was a tower of strength ; hearing tho I'ow, he camo up, looked about, and seeing the cajjtain and Mr. Davis both in the grasp of this tiger, made a rush at him, when all throe fell on tho deck in a heap, and after a long and tremendous struggle of kicks and blows, tho tiger was held down by seven strong fellows until secured hands and feet in irons, and dragged up on to tho poop, where ho spit out his venom until I den was prepared for him below, wliere he was chained to the deck like what he was — a wild Ijoast. Tho master-at- 200 DKKAKEKS AHbiAD. arms was his gaoler, and a faithful one all the voyage. He kept him in his chain, and fed him like a dog, no one being allowed even to see him the rest of the voyage. The quarter- master was disrated, tried, and flogged with some others ; and so ended this act of the play. The master-at-arms was a true man, Avith a little of a strange history tacked to his right name — he had a borrowed one at this time. His name was Thurtle, of a very respectable family in Norfolk ; had been much at sea with Lord Cochrane. His ship being paid off, he returned to London after a long service, and found that his brother had been hanged for the murder of a Mr. Weir ; he felt the disgrace so much that he went into a watchmaker's shop one day, asked to see some watches, put one of them in his pocket, and walked out of the door. He did not attempt to run away, was arrested by a policeman, and brought before the Lord Mayor and was asked what he had to say in his defence. He said he took the watch for the purpose of being transported, on account of the disgrace that fell on himself and family, and that he had no other means of getting away from England, never to return. The Lord Mayor was fully acquainted with the cause of his trouble, and got him the appointment he held in our ship. Our next adventure was an escape from a reef of almost invisible rocks far out at sea. The captain had been on the look-out all day, with his charts before him, for these ugly sharks somewhere in our path, when night came on. Sup- posing he had passed them on his right or left, he let the ship go before the wind. About half-past ten I heard a shuffling noise on deck, trampling of feet, and a speaking-trumpet, denoting alarm. A small craft had just crossed our bows (the first vessel we had seen since leaving home), calling out, "You are going on the Deserters ; " and passed away ! The helm was l)ut down, the ship brought up, and laid to all night so close to the rocks that one might have thrown a biscuit on to them. All we could see was a cluster of jagged black points above the water, and so we were mercifully preserved from positive destruc- tion ; a few minutes more and our ship would have been inevit- ably lost, and most probably all hands. Not long after this we SHAKIC-FISIIING. 201 luid anotlicr providential escape. It was the custom of the chief olKcer to go down once a week, with a lantern, into the grand store, for the supply of spirits, wine, and other stores ; this place was full of combustibles, such as tar, dried rushes for the cooper business, &c. Something particular being wanted one night, contrary to rule, the captain asked his chief officer to take with him a careful person, and go into the store. Un- locking the door, they Avere surprised and astounded to see a light before them — a tallow candle was fixed to the mast, the Avood was being charred, a tar-barrel, close by, and a bundle of rushes hanging above. A short time and there would have been an awful Hare up. The Kent, with troops, had been burned at sea about this time, and all precaution was taken against fire, yet here was a clandestine attempt at a wholesale destruction that never was discovered ; the most strict investi- gation brought nothing to light. As we approached the Cape, we felt the cold, for it was the Jidij winter there. April is a bad season to leave England for India. The cunning of the shark is amusing ; to see him play and coquette with a four-pound piece of pork on a great hook fastened to a chain at the end of a strong rope, trailing astern. As the ship very gently glides along, he comes nearly to the surface of the water, his dorsal fin above, smells the bait, gives it a shove with his nose, and disappears below. He soon returns, sails round and round it, gives it a sla;~i with, his tail, and dives away. He now feels his appetite getting as sharp as his teeth, approaches cautiously, turns on his back, opens his huge jaAvs, sucks in the delicious morsel and darts away ; his r.ipidity of motion only hooks him the faster, then comes the play j his violence has no bonnds, he jumps above the water, shakes his jaws to get free, plunges and bounds with such force of strength, that he often breaks the chain and gets away to digest his iron lunch in the deep, or let it rust in his jaws. When hoisted into the ship, his play on the deck soon clears the way. One whack of his tail would break a man's leg; he slaps music out of the planks of the deck, and makes a wide circle for himself, until the carpenter comes with his axe, and puts his tail out of joint ! then a crack on the head, 202 CKOfciSINU THE LINE. and all is over. Tho sailors take a cutlet off liis tenderest part ; I tried and rejected its coarseness^ as being neither fish nor flesh. There was a barbarous custom in those days, when ships crossed the lino, to sJiave all hands on board who had not crossed before. It was a day of mirth and glee to the old sailors, who had a fine opportunity of exercising or paying off old scores against comrades. It was a grand holiday in tho ship, and conducted in the following way. The day was fine and warm, and nothing beyond a three-knot ripple to keep the vessel steady. At eight-bolls, Neptune with his staff was announced by the sounding of roncJics, as coming up from the deep to pay his respects to tho captain of tho ship, and drink to his health. Being requested to advance, he was wheeled in his car of stato from behind tho scenes, with his trident in hand, up tho quarter-deck, where tho captain met and thanked him for his favourable voyage so far, and requested he would continue his good offices to tho end. Healths being drunk in bumpers of rum, those sea-devils retired behind the curtain to begin operations. To give a descriptive account of the fashion of dresses worn at the bottom of the deep would be impossible. All we soldiers, who were arranged on the poop as spectators, enjoyed the fun with roars of laughter, in wliich the ladies joined. By means of tarpaulins a very large tank of sea-wator was prepared on the deck, a pole was stretched across this pond ; the harhcr and his men stood by it. All hands who had never crossed the line were kept below, or out of sight, till called for. Tho order from Neptune went forth aloud through a conch to shave his children, beginning with his eldest sons (the officers of his good ship) . Some ran down below and hid them- selves ; but it was of no avail ; they were caught and carried to the barber's shop if they resisted. Some were very ob- streperous, and fared the worso for it. Blindfolded and held tight by the two arms, in undress, i.e., shirt and trousers, tho first of many dozens was perched and held tight on tho polo. Tho barber then dipped a largo paint-brush into a bucket of tar and greeso, lathered his chin very well, and shaved all THE TRADE-WINDS. 203 off with a rusty iron hoop. A bucket of sea- water was then clashed in his face, and he was tumbled heels over head into the tank, to get out at his leisure. If a good-humoured fellow, he immediately joined in the fun ; but the reverse of good feeling was occasionally displayed, and if the one being shaved opened his mouth in complaint, the tar-brush was sure to meet his teeth, if not his tongue. Any display of faintness was checked by the smelling-bottle, represented by a cork filled with needles, which gave one such a dig in the nose that kept him wide awake during the ceremony. Some were rough, and kicked against autJiorif}/. They were sure to get shaved with the saiu side of the razor, taste the brush, feel the smelling-,srt7^&', and get half drowned into the bargain ; but that was the most agreeable part of the play, for just under the line the heat was so intense one envied the fishes. By eight-bells again Neptune and his people had gone down below, and everything was restored to order but torn hrceJiS and ragged shirts. A lady in the ship expressed to the captain a great desire to sec the line we had crossed. '' 0," ho said, " I will have much pleasure in letting you see it through my great telescope, but you must wait until sunset." In the mean time ho fastened a hair across the glass, placed it on a rest, and told her to look steady and tell him if she discovered anything. Putting her finger tight over one eye she looked and exclaimed, " dear me, I do indeed now see the line dis- tinctly j how small it is, which explains how easy we got over ! " She was a person of great naivete, and it saves a groat deal of trouble to believe everything one hears or sees. We fell in with the trade winds occasionally, which carried us on smoothly and swiftly ; the voyage lost much of its mo- notony and terror, for the roughs in the ship became more civilized, having been whacked into a form of discipline. Our table was well supplied; wo had little evening parties, and dancing on the deck, when I was in great demand with my violin, the only music, such as it was, on board. Then comes a dead calm ; the heat intense, one's shoes sticking to the pitch that oozed from the planks of the deck ; ship rolling heavily from side to side, the yards dipped in the sea right and 201' TKINCOMALKE. left. This contiiiiiGcl for three days in succession, tossing every one about fearfully. Then up starts another trade wind, and away we went ])efore it joyfully for three weeks at a stretch nntil we sighted the spicy island of Ceylon. The 7tli of August brought us up in the beautiful harbour of Trincomalee. The sweetest music I heard for 120 days was ^'Lot go the anchor.^' What a joyful plunge, and the run out of the cable too, so harmonious. The anchor was hardly down when a rush was made from the shore by hundreds of the natives, swimming out like black ducks, until the good ship was surrounded and taken by storm. They crawled up the sides like squirrels, and stood on the decks, on the poop, on the rigging, and got into the port- holes. All the ladies rushed off and down to their respective dens at the first sight of those black devils, who had not a rag .about them but the fig-leaf. They wore perfectly harmkds, but declined all warning to disperse and cut away hon.e until the captain ordered a cannon to bo loaded with powder, and well hammered down. Blow the match — fire — bang. Down they all went head foremost into the deep, like frogs in a well, from every pari3 of the ship, and away to the shore. There were several of the fair sex mixed up in this water excursion, but they kept swimming about below, enjoying the warm bath like black mermaids. Mr. Twining, master attendant, sent his boat and invited us, with the captain, to go ashore and stay at his house. Ever}'-- thing was charming on terra firma; a perfect paradise all around; a new world; a singularly strange, handsome, ebony people. I mistook the young men in their snow-white, curious folding robes for pretty girls, they looked so happy and waited with such respect and attention at table, moving about as light as fairies, and so gentle. The lizards, green and blue, kept running along the ceiling catching flies ; little birds of beautiful plumage kept flying in and out of the open windows. Outside, the tulip-trees, covered with blossom, and such a variety of lovely plants and flowers. A perpetual sunshine, and the sea-bath at your door, — the tout I'lisiDiKe to me was no ilhision, it was a paradise. ITS SCENERY. 205 Wc sat down to a nice breakfast under a tree ; the crows sat above on the branches waiting for a foray, impudent birds and cunning as crickets. Every person at meals has his own servant to attend. The moment one turned his back for any- thing, down popped a crow, Hkc a dart, and carried off some- thing from the table, so quickly and so neatly done, that no- thing was broken or displaced. They often snapped the bread and butter out of baby's hand with wonderful dexterity. The coolies carried the soldiers' dinners from the cook-house to barracks on wide earthen vessels on their heads. The kites and crows, always on the watch, would pounce down and carry off what they could grab. It was amusing to watch their cunning. I kept a pellet bow for their service and my own amusement, hitting one now and then when on the wing, but never brought down my bird. The weather was extremely hot, but I felt in a second paradise, and continued my walks most joyfully for a time, even as far as the inner harbour, tho most beautiful and one of the most extensive in all the world, feathered all round to the water's edge with trees and shrubs unknown in Europe. The cinnamon, nutmeg, pepper, coffee, calamander, and many other valuable and precious shrubs and plants were ever meeting the stranger's eye. Tho sea-shells were beautiful, the variety charming, and hawked about for sale by the natives, arranged in boxes to catch the Johnny Newcomes as they landed, for every ono grabbed at everything as they were released from prison and got ashore. I tliought I could live here for ever, and enjoy tho quiet of life, as Adam first settled down in the old garden, but there was a something near at hand to remind me that a bit of a churchyard fits everybody. I Avalked in and found the memorial of those whom I expected to meet alive ! This world is but a training-school for tho next. My gallant corps, the 45th, a very distinguished one in tho Peninsular war, had left the island, so I went on to hunt them up at Madras. It was a dark night ; we anchored in the offing. I was pacing the dock, thinking whore I should go next day, or what I should do. I did not know any one ; there was no such a thing as an hotel or a lodging-house, then, in all India, 20G LANDING AT MADIJAS. which bothered mo very sorely, when I heard a splashing about the ship. Looking over the side, I saw the dark shade of a living block of humanity, sitting on the soles of its feet, paddling three logs of timber tied together, about ten feet long, as much under the water as above it. " What do you want, you black rascal ? " cried the watch on deck. " A chit, massa." " Come up ! " and up he came like a monkey, after fastening his craft below, stood on the deck as upright as a ramrod, perfectly naked, and black as '' Day and Martin." He took off a little conical straw or rush cap which he had tied tight on his head, and drew forth the chit, or letter, rolled up in a rag, quite dry. It was for myself — an invitation for us next day to the house of very kind, hospitable, but unknown friends, who heard of our coming to India. We had never heard of or known them. This Indian hospitality, so welcome at the time and so well-timed, was quite joyous, and relieved all my anxiety. Their carriage awaited our landing next day, and took us home. The landing at Madras is no fun — too much adventure in it for old women or sexagenarian gentlemen troubled with gout or. rheumatism. The surf is always running mountains high — no boat of England^s build could live through it. The Mussula boat alone can cross those mighty billows and breakers. It is a simple piece of mechanism sewn together with coil rope, deep and elastic ; no nails nor iron in the whole construction. They are dexterously managed by a dozen of native boatmen, all of them keeping up a sort of bellowing gabble, going over the billows and through the breakers ; they lie on their oars, and watch the swell approaching ; as it passes under the boat and increases in magnitude, they follow it up until it becomes a mountain of water, and breaks into a stupendous foam. Now is their time and opportunity. All their steam is got up ; they pull with all their might, and strain their lungs with the most barbarous yells, to make all the way they can before being overtaken by the next swell ; until at last the boat is washed high and dry on the sands. Now's your time ! jump out and away, or the coming billow may carry you back to sea, unless the men have time to pull np their bark high on the sands. FORT ST. GEORGE. 207 I found my regiment in Fort St. George, my commanding officer a jolly sort of money-saving lialf-lieatlien. He gave me ten days^ leave to refresh myself with our friends at their country bungalow. We were all driving on the beach the same evening, where all the fashion and beauty — white and black, brown and tawny, cafe-au-lait, and all the colours of the East — were assembled to inhale the fresh sea and balmy breezes, to throw life and vigour and appetite into humanity after the broiling sun had gone down ; then home to dinner, the punkah overhead, with all its circulation of air, a fan beside your plate, all the windows and doors open, your wine and water cooled with saltpetre, the bottles of beer in wet flannel bags kept in a draught to cool, claret ditto ; — but we griffins could not find a cool corner anywhere. All the pores were wide open, and the ladies' curls lay over their cheeks and necks in straight, wet hair. The bedding cost little ; musquito- curtaius and a mattress, a sheet and pillow, were all I ever required. The sun is an early riser, bu^ you must be up before him, dressed by your lamp, and away to take your morning ride or walk, before he tops the cocoa tree. My friend, Mr. D , a civilian, had nineteen horses, so I had no need to walk much ; but I was always a great walker, and walked overmuch at times, to my injury. The Doctor, or sea-breeze, falls into tho deep about nine o'clock p.m., when the opposite land-wind comes down to the coast. All the windows and doors on that side of the house are closed against it ; the exposure often causes pains in the joints, stifi' neck, rheumatism, and fever ; but none of those things ever gave me the slightest trouble, nor had I any fear of danger from any disease in any country all my life. I always observed that those who had, foil into a melancholy sort of despondency and dropped off the roster like leaves in October. A soldier has no more right to tamper with his life than he has to distrust the Most High, in whom ho lives and moves and has his being. The accommodation in Fort St. George barracks for a suh was just one room furnished with two chairs and a tabic — good enough for a bachelor-=^but many wives had to live in 208 A JOURNEY. these dens of a fiery furuace, tlieir meals being cooked out- side the door in the verandah, from whence tho savoury smell of roast meat about four o'clock, along the whole corridor, was not a jierfume over agreeable to visitors. Every officer had his man- cook and the cook's mate, to make his brea.kfast, and roast a joint of a kid as big as a rabbit — hard work for two black innocents, who couldn't or wouldn't do anything else ; then there was the butler, and the dobey, or washer-iua«, not woman, and the beastly wallah, or water-carrier, and the derze, or tailor, horsekeeper and grass-cutter, two for every horse, and with these nine I managed to get on for a while very well. I found a tolerable sort of an old house in the Fort, which I rented and furnished. It faced tho sea and the cooling breeze; but we wanted the beauty of Ceylon about our doors, its woods and forests, fruit and flowers, coffee plantations and cinnamon trees, the far-famed harbour and all the island perfume ; a bare, barren-looking Fort, under a tropical sun, made all tho difference. Death is written on all things; dear relatives, that we expected to meet were missing. Sister L was called, in full preparation, at the early age of twenty-four ; her lius- band sickened and died after our landing. My presence was required some 300 miles down the country. I answered the call — a perfect stranger in a world unknown. I suffered myself to be carried away one night in a palankeen by thirteen savage - looking black fellows, not one of whom could speak a single word of English, nor did I understand a word of their lingo. They agreed, by interpreter, to con- vey me in safety this long journey for so many rupees, one- half in advance, and such huchshis as massa please to give — i.e., as what was meant, a sheep for their dinner every day ! So we commenced our journey, six men under the polos at a time, the relief running alongside a stretch of perhaps seven miles or so ; then a change, but never a lowering of the palkee until they all came to a stand for supper, or, as they say, to eat rice. After a couple of hours' rest and a sleep, they swathed their loins very tight and firm in their long cloths, the torch PALANKEEN-BKAREIiS. 209 was lighted, the palkee raised, the pads settled between polo and shoulder, and the monotonous cry of " I-hi-hee-hee, o-ho-harra-ba-ha-he-hum ! " raised, and away they went all together, keeping the step well locked up until daylight, when I was put dov/n at a choultry, or by the side of a tank under a shady tree to spend the day. The head man came to make his salaam, and boil my kettle for breakfast, and take orders. Wo understood each other by signs only, but he never forgot to ask for the sheep ; they were not of the Leicester or Southdown breed, nor so expensive. I seldom paid more than 36'. for one on the lino of march, and it was always cooked, curried, and devoured in about two hours — a little bit always reserved for massa. No one can boil rico like a palkee-bearer ; every grain comes out of the chattio as dry as wheat, and nothing more simple ; the rice is put into an earthen small vessel, with cold water, and set, covered, hi/ the fire; when well boiled, but not overmuch, the water is poured off, and the rice still left in the vessel by the fire ; give it a shake now and then till wanted, and all will turn out as dry as meal. While one man is boiling the rice, another is away to some brook or pond, with his casting-net for fish for the curry. Others are preparing the plates for dinner; large fine green leaves are gathered, and sown together with stift' grass fibres ; the rice is divided out on those trenchers. A little curry and chilies mixed make up the repast, which is eaten with the hand. After this they pour some water down the throat, and go to sleep. They are honest and careful of anything left in their charge, and the most useful, jDatient, and ill-paid men in all India. I strolled about under the shady trees all day admiring tho beautiful plants and flowers, monkeys, birds, lizards, and all the divine works of nature, in this retired out of the world resting-place, where all was silent as death, except the chat- tering of monkeys and parrots, screeching beetles, and tho chirping of insects in the long grass, which I carefully avoided, the snakes here being in great force. The sun went down, and I pursued my journey; passing over several rivers and streams in the night, I heard a great excite- p 210 NEGAPATAM. mont going on amongst my black boys ; tliey put down the palkcOj an;l I jumped out to see the cause. One of tliom had been bitten by a snjikc, and the rest were dressing the wound with herbs ; his foot was bleeding, and the question was, whether the reptile was a cohra j if so, there was no cure, and they knew it. Passing on, we came to a deep river not ford- able ; a small raft was found, formed of reeds, buoyed up with empty chatties, one fellow fastened a rope to it, swam across, and pulled it over with the palkeo on top. The raft was then pulled back, and I was taken over safe and dry, the boys (as they are called) swimming alongside like ducks ; and so we pursuedour journey for a week of brilliant nights, and tropical days of red heat. If you happen to fall in with any civilian sta- tion on your line, you may be sure of a good welcome to pass the day. I was thus fortunate on many occasions, and made some nice friends, for there is no country I ever found so hospitable as India. I passed through Pondi cherry at this time, a French settlement, and introduced myself to the Chrf-de-port, and passed the day with him most agreeably. He was a regular John Bull of a Frenchman, who escaped from Franco in perilous times, and settled hero. Ho had a picture of King George III. over his mantel-piece, and spoke of England as the only free country in Europe, &c. ; he showed me all the town and everything in it worth seeing, had a bath ready for mo before dinner, packed my palkee with prog, admonished my bearers to be careful and attentive, and gave me instruc- tions how I was to get along, and warned me to be sure to come back. Everything comes to an end; and in every relation and situation of life there is some cross for us to bear. Love and sorrow never die. I met the living in affliction, sat upon tho snow-white tomb of her so much beloved ; doorloss was that house, and dark it was within; there she was detained, and death had the key 1 Negapatam, or town of snakes, lies on the south coast of the Carnatic, in latitude 11°, not far from Ceylon. The natives venerate the deadly cobra snake ; they had a nest of them here, and fed them on eggs and milk, all from fear, and hoping THE COBRA. 211 to will tlicir affections, and keep tlicm away from tlicir cliildrcn ! Tliey arc very fond of riggling their way into houses, and coiHng themselves up in one's bed. I had many encounters with them single-handed ; on such occasions my servants de- clined aiding me in the combat, for when pressed, the cobra capoUa stands on the defensive, and can throw himself for- ward or backward ; and they well knew that a nip from his teeth was certain death. I met one of these visitors about noon serpentining past the front door as I rode up. I gave tlio alarm, jumped off my horse, and attacked with my sword, which I found too short ; after the first dash ho made at me, raising himself half his length, he opened his mouth, spread his hood, darted out his hissing forked tongue, and showed fight ; my black fellows looking on in wonder at my folly and risk ; ho got to a border of thick grass and nearly out of view, when I got hold of a long bamboo, and pursued. Once more he stood up in anger, when I hit him on the head, knocked him over, and finished him off with my sword ; hang him up on a tree until nothing was left, but a skeleton of dry bones ; his length six feet one inch, which was considered a large cobra. They have two spiral tusks from which the poison is emitted from the bag below in the jaw. I remained with my kind friend here for ten days, a lonely, retired, warm corner of the globe to any one without a pursuit. There is a little native trading kept up between Ceylon and Madras, of coir-ropes, cocoa-nuts, and oil, in boats called d'honies; a sort of naval architecture, primitive in shape and make, and said to have been just the same since Adam and Eve lived in Ceylon, supposed to be the Paradise, but certainly not Eden, which signifies delight and pleasm'O. (Gen. chap, ii.) Fond of adventure I agreed for a passage back to Madras in one of those shells going up with the monsoon, an accom- modating sort of wind that blows half the year one way, and vice versa. There was not an inch of iron In all this ship ; they had a wooden anchor, and one ragged cotton sheet for a sail. I had never been on board one of thoso things, but suj^poscd there p2 212 13ACK TO MADRAS. was somctliing* in tlio sluipo of a sloopiiig' tlcn ; and bo my friend sent out my palkoo fastened on two canoes, to Ijo put on l)oard with some cooked rations for the voyao-c. When I embarked in the evenin<^, I found tlio palankeen lashed on tho top of tho house, the hold full of cocoa-nuts, rice, oil, and coir-rope. It was like a country cabin thatched with Palmyra leaves, and as hot as blazes. I crawled into my don, the anchor with a big stone to it was hauled up, the rag of a sheet with tsventy holes in it was spread before tho warm breeze, and we boldly ventured to sea. I was baked in my kennel all tho day ; at night I crept out to breatho and take my su})per. The captain of the .s7//j>. Gather Tambe, and his crew, two men and a boy, all as black as ebony, did not know one word of any language but their own Cingalese, not a syllable of which I understood ; but Ave got on pretty well by signs. I. found on tho second day my prog had all g(jt bad and was walking away, so I pitched the contents of my hamper amongst the fishes. I^imbc seeing my hungry position, canio and squatted himself besido mo on his heels like a black frog, looked into my face, oi:)ened his mouth, and ran his finger half-way down his throat. ] gave a nod of assent to this movement, when he crept dov.n a hole into his store (all in my view), filled a cocoa-nut shell with cold boiled rico and oil, stirred this mess up with his finger, and presented it to mo in great glee, showing his whito teeth all the while ; but, alas, it only made my interior boil and bubble. Tho generous countenance (jf the sable ca})tain drooped as I gently declined tho repast, lie sat very thoughtful awhilo,and then turned his attention to his fishing-lines, but had no bait ; however after many a dodge with a red rag, ho hooked a small fish and hauled it in with chattering glee, cut it up for bait, cast out his line, and caught a real good one, looked at mo joyfully, and put his finger into his mouth. Wo understood each other ; ho soon made a bit of fire on a stone flag, and roasted tho "poisson." 1 had some biscuit, and made my dinner, with a tumbler of wine, half boiled with tho sun's heat. I now amused myself fishing, and got a few each d\iy, but not enough for i]io crciv. On the fourth day we fell in with THE KOUTIi:. 213 some regular fislicrnicnjaiid liad a deal or barter, — fisli for cocoa- nuts; it was a hard l)argiiin,aud it was difticult to como to terms. Tliroo times the fisliermen left us, and three times an additional cocoa-nut was held up to bring them back, with a volubility of speech that would have confounded all the fishwives in Billings- gate. However they came to terms at last, and the crew of the d'honey, had a lish dinner without sauce, that might have satisfied twenty men. ^Fhe fish was picked from the bones, and mixed iq) with cold rice in a" bucket j all hands wont to work, Jind it was from hand to mouth until the bucket was cleared out. 'rambtl boiled my kettle, and i had my tea every evening, and lived pretty well, as I couldn't live bettor. It was a six days' voyago that surprised all my friends at Madras when fthey heard of it, and none so nmch as myself when it ended. 1 had hardly got back to Madras, when my regiment got a sudden call for iureign service. Wo were ordered to llangoon in a great hurry, a new region of the J'iastern world, to fight the liurmesc, a people unknown to British soldiers or sailors. Ava was a country wo seldom or ever heard of, or l)othered our heads about, hlugland, never ([uiet, was now forming a British army at the Anti})odes, to assail and do battle with an empire of savages, armed with spears, dahs, knives, and matchlocks ; the whole country, a low unhealthy jungle as wo wore told, where the army was sure to die oif. it was only a matter of time, and so it turned out. ' All was hurry-scurry in Fort George, to provide fpiarters and accommodation for wives and families, the military depart- ment having most kindly notified that the ladies must all turn out as soon as tho troops euibarked ! I was more fortumito than most of my comrades, haviug a brother of my wife in tho country who was only too glad to have her and baby with him; but tho distance was far away on tho south coast, anil no cou- vc^yanco but a palkee ; that would never do. I went to our agents in despair for advice. " A brig," th(>y said, " was in the roads returning to Ceylon, but all natives." "What sort of 214 MY wiff/s diary. savages ? " I said, " arc tliey to be trusted ? " '' Call to-morrow, and we will have the cajytaiii here and make some kind of binding agreement/^ I did so ; he looked very like a picture of the devil without a tail. I didnH admire him ; but an agreement was signed, and he promised everything. All Avas now arranged to embark the next evening at sundown. The aijah must have leave to see her friends before she would con- sent to go abroad, with double pay granted. The time was up, and no appearance of this black handmaid. Three black fellows were dispatched in search of her; after a long search, she was found by the roadside as drunk as a lord, having lost her balance, homeward bound. I pressed a bullock bandy going by for her accommodation, and got her lifted quite help- less into a Mussula boat, and took her to sea. The brig was to be off the next morning, and without the black devil all my arrangements would have been defeated, no substitute could be found, and a lady and child must be left without an attendant. She was a good servant before and afterwards. This is one of the acjrecahle changes and chances in a soldier^s life ! I remained in the ship all night, and left next morning, doubt- ful of our ever meeting again; but everything turned out with us right in the end. My wife says in her diary," When you left us wo felt desolate and oppressed, the dear child and myself unable to move out of our berths for two days from sea-sickness, the ayah unable to help us, nor had we anything to eat or drink but some fruit and rice-water. Two monkeys came in at the window, ran about chattering, and examining everything in the cabin; they opened one of the hamiDors, tossed out the bread, cold fowls, and all the fruit, helping themselves to a bit of this and that, and throwing the rest at their heels. I had not power to resist them or drive them away, they were a perfect torment, mischievous but amusing, and kept dear little Mary in constant fits of laughter; when one of them would sit in the port-hole on watch, the other would creep in like a thief, look all about, open a basket, and pitch the })lantains to his ugly brother, and away they scampered with their mouths crammed and their IuduJh full ! Wlien able to go on deck, wo enjoyed MY wipe's DIAKY. 215 the evening breeze coming over the sea, the land in sight, and everything so serene and quiet after all our late excitement ashore. We had now the whip hand of the two monkeys, and kept them out of our domicile ; so they turned their attention to two reverend Brahmins on board, who would not be polluted by the touch of man or beast from their own caste. Those two idolatrous priests lay on the deck together, eat and drank and slept there, had their provisions in a bag and their water in a large chatty beside them. After their noon feast they went to sleep in the bright and scorching sun ; monkeys on the watch ready for action. Down they come from aloft, creep all round the deck, and approach very gently the sleeping habes, whom they examined to see that there was no deception or trap. One of them opened the bag, and crammed his mouth full, throwing his comrade a share of the plunder. He then put his hand into the water-chatty and tossed it up into his mouth so quick, keeping a sharp look-out on all sides. The other one came to have a drink also, but in his hurry he upset the water-pot on the Brahmin's turban and into his mouth. Ho made a sudden plunge out of his sleep, roused up his com- panion, had just one glim]3se at the two robbers running up the ropes, when they turned round chattering, showing their white tooth, and seemingly quite pleased ^xith their frolic. Not so the Brahmins j they threw their prog and water overboard, lay down again, and fell asleep ! " There was a fine largo pet cat on board, who came up on deck every day to enjoy the breeze and have a snooze ; the two robbers used to watch till she closed her eyes for a com- fortable repose, then crept gently behind and gave her such a slap on the ear as made poor pussy bounce ; then away they would fly, one would suppose, laughing at and enjoying the joke. " Wo arrived safe and well here, after five days' voyage ; my brother rejoiced to have us with him ; he has a fine bungalow, plenty of servants and horses, and lives like a small king. We ride on horseback every evening, and have a good gallop along the sands for five miles at a stretch. There are plenty 21G MY WIl'E^S DIAUY. of cobra snakes, wliicli makes mo nervous about our darling child going out of an evening; however, she has three attendants, one always a little in advance to clear the way with his rattle in hand. Snakes are easily disturbed and frightened ; but they are too fond of coming into the house, the doors and windows being always open. The other evening, when wo came in from our ride, a large cobra snake met us in the hall ; my brother let him take up his position, then fired at and shot him. Indeed this Negapatam means the ' town of snakes.^ '' 217 CHAPTER XIV. Embarkation. — At Soa. — Eanjroon. — TIio Great Dagon. — TJie Burmese. — Goose Eggs. — Burmese War-boats. — Tiger-traps. — Palmyra Toddy. — Sandford and Bennett. — The llliahams. — Sagacious Elephants. — Tactics. — Mai du Pays. I WAS dreadfully ill from knocking about in the sun for some days, and hardly ablo to walk, oven in tlio shade. A burning fever and total prostration left mo Jiors do combat and hardly able to get on board with my regiment. When I got on the deck of the Golconda, and into my den, I rejoiced at the prospect of some quiet. No place like sea for an invalid ; a bath at daylight, and the shadow — not the sun — simple re- medies, soon restored my health, strength, and appetite ; wo had but a very indifferent table, eat up all that was put before us, and blew up the contractor every day. Our route lay across the J3ay of Bengal ; we nearly ran into the Great Andaman Island, and would certainly have been on the rocks had it not been noonday, for the skipper knew very little about his trade. We put into one of the islands for water, and met some unfriendly savage fellows, who disputed our landing. They came down upon us in a rush with their bows and their quivers, let fly a shower of arrows into tho water party, killing one and wounding three. This Eobiu Hood sort of skirmishing roused all the steam in our ranks, and a volley of bullets soon cleared off the bowmen fiir away back into tho jungle, yelping like jackals. Tho officers gene- rally slept on tho poop under the awning, and oven there they were assaulted by the cockroaches and had their mattresses and bedclothes absolutely eaten from under them. I remember one officer throwiiig his mattress overboard one morning, it had been so destroyed in tho night by those nocturnal marauders ; but worse still, there were centipedes in tho ship, and plenty of them, full-grown^ six inches long, venomous and 218 AT SEA. disgusting ; they crawl into your bed^ and you wake up to feel one nibbling at you between the sheets, or marching across your face ; next to the scorpion, they are the most unwelcome, nasty, hideous intruders one meets with. All well on board, crowded so that few men went below at all, day or night ; intensely hot weather. Made the Cocoas, a group of islands to the S.W. of the Great Andaman, not in- habited ; but the natives from other islands and from Burmah visit them for the cocoa-nuts, which flourish there in abundance. Light baffling winds for the last thirteen days. A great many small ringdoves alighted on the rigging of the ship at different times, 200 miles from land. 1st November made the Preparis Island in our course to Eangoon. It came to blow with squalls. Kunning under reefed topsails, the look-out observed a line of low rocks running out from the island, aboub four miles into the sea. 'Bout ship just in time; in the dark we would have shortened our voyage ! 3rd. Saw Diamond Island, — current strong against us ; wind failing, we anchored in twenty- six fathoms water, 150 miles from the mouth of the Irrawaddio. Weighed anchor at four next morning, with a gentle breeze ; wind soon dropped, and so we dropped the anchor in twenty fathoms. Off again at five in the morning, and anchored at twelve, wind always failing at noon ; very tiresome and very hot ; caught some nice fish, made twenty miles, and so we crept on from day to day con- tending against a strong current and baffling light winds, pro- visions getting scarce and limited, and the elements becoming heated like a furnace. lOih. Discovered land; appearance very low, and thickly covered with trees. Steered for the Elephant, a large clump at the mouth of the Rangoon river, ship turning up the mud with her keel in six fathoms twelve miles from land. A fair wind ran us up to Monkey Point, a few miles from Rangoon, where we anchored. Country on both sides this noble river low and covered with jungle ; the Syrian and Shoe Dagon, praws or pagodas are seen at a great distance, and have a majestic appearance glittering in their golden brightness under a fiery sun. The distance up the river to Rangoon is about RANGOON. 219 tliirty miles, varying from three miles to half a mile wide. We dropped up to tlio King's Wharf on the 12th of November ; and, as we turned Monkey Point, wo sighted Rangoon, with its 3,000 pagodas, its stockade, shipping, war-boats, high and towering talipot and cocoa trees, Poonghee houses, and the great burnished temple topping all, and standing in the midst of this forest of fairy-like le.nd of enchantment. On disem- barking, I found it all show — nothing substantial but the great teak-trees forming the stockade; beams of massive timber as durable as oak fixed on their ends deep in the gi'ound, and about fifteen or twenty feet high, closely put together, and strengthened inside by bars of wood, top and bottom. This timber fortification was loop-holed, with a stage all around the inside for the enemy to keep up a fire. The Burmese considered it impregnable, saying that the " English did not fight like soldiers, but like red devils ; that they carried ladders and climbed up their stockade, and got in like coAvards, without any notice or warning ! " We marched up at once to our camping-ground, about two miles of an ascent — the highest spot of ground around us for 200 miles — and in all that space there was not a stone to bo seen. It became a novelty to see or to find one; but there was no end of brickmakers and bricklayers ; the town of Eangoon itself was a wretched village of bamboo huts, built upon platforms, supported by teak beams along the bank of the river, the water flowing underneath. On the way up the hrich road to the Great Pagoda, Poonghee houses, or dwellings of the priests, stand on both sides at a little distance from each other. They have but one flat, and that is without doors or windows, and is open on all sides. The rest of the house is all show, very handsomely and ingeniously carved and gilded. There was a space of an inch between the planks of the floor, so we had plenty of air — not alwaj^s very fresh — where the natives kept their pigs and cattle below, all houses being built on piles. The priests all cut away, so I cut into one of these villas for a temporary possession; the roof was water-tight, and I kept open house, as Irishmen sometimes do, who have no doors nor windows ; but it rains here occasionally, and a 220 THE GKKAT DAGON. whole moiitli's allowance will come down in tlirec hours, with thunder the most terrific, and lightning forking itself iuto the ground, and dropping in round halls of fire, and exploding like a gun-shot. I never saw lightning in all its power, and at our very door, until I came here. We had no mess ; every man lived on his rations as best ho could, with what else he could catch. My chum had not arrived yet with the left wing of the regiment, and he had charge of all the stores. I was thinking how and where I could get a breakfast, when I heard a band and drums ap- proaching, and glad to find it was the gallant 87tli Eoyal Irish " clear the way." The two oldest officers in the corps wero my cousins, but we had not met for thirty years. All that time the two brothers stuck together, and were first-rate campaigners ; their tent was pitched, and a first-rate break- fast on the table in less than an hour. They came from Bengal fully equipped for the camjiaign, and here I got my first breakfast in Ava. They were two distinguished, good soldiers ; but I'm not going to write their historj^ — I am making such a sorry tale of my own. They asked me to dinner, and to join their mess as a guest, and live with them altogether ; but they got the Iloolmm for a voyage up the Irrawaddie, and we never met again in India. Took a stroll to visit the Great Dagon pagoda; it stands upon the top of three square platforms, the lowest about a mile and a half in circumference. There are four grand passages up to it ; the finest from the cast side has seventy- five steps leading up to a long porch, supported by handsome wooden pillars^ carved and gilt. The ceiling of the porch is lacquered and painted with different figures ; at the front base of the pagoda there is a handsome pavilion, with an open chequered iron gate finely gilt, containing an image of Gaudiaa more than gigantic in size. It was much defaced and mutilated j the temple is octagonal at the base and spiral at top, with a tec on the summit hung all round with bells. The building is quite solid, and covers about five acres of ground, including the minor pagodas that closely surround it. Between each of them there is a figure of au immense griilin as guardian, and THE GREAT DAQON. 221 another nomlcscript something like the Egyptian sphinx. A gilt copper leaf hangs from the clapper of each bell, so that the least breeze of wind sets them all chiming, and the effect of seventy or eighty thousand bells ringing at once had a pleasing and soothing charm. Amongst the great forest of these temples of Buddah, there were not half a dozen that escaped mutilation ; hundreds were razed to the foundation for the plunder of the gods, some of them containing as many as five hundred images of gold, silver, brass, and alabaster, but chiefly silver. Colonel S , a knowing old cove, gave his men orders not to trespass for loot, nor to go amongst the pagodas without leave. Ho was an early bird, and might be seen contemplating amongst tho ruins in his dressing-gown and slippers before any one was astir, and would come suddenly on a party of his men going homo with a basket of sammics, as they called them, from the tombs. " Holloa, you rascals ! " with a voice of thunder. He had no occasion to say more ; the basket was dropped, they went off at the double, and he carried home the prize. His leisure hours were occupied peeling the silver gods and putting their hides into his treasury. The natives had a sacred bird called the henza, in carved wood, placed on high, in all directions ; a long hexagon-shaped wirework; gilt was suspended from the beak of this monster, and the usual number of bells were always in motion. They had grand processions, very often to tho Great Dagon Praw. Every one carried their offerings ; they were of boiled rice, flowers, plantains, painted and gilt paper, bits of cloth, &c., I suppose according to ability. When they advanced to the stairs leading up to the temple, they came to a halt, put down the offerings, prostrating and bowing tho face to tho ground three times, after which they held up both hands in prayer, with a bunch of flowers between tho fingers. In tho mean time, the dogs and the crows were helping themselves to what they liked best, which seemed to be understood, for they were not at all molested until the procession advanced to tho foot of the Praw, when tho same ceremony was repeated. They then took up their offerings, and placed tliein before their 222 THE BURMKSE. favourite deities, the dogs, kites, and crows waiting anxiously for their departure to finish their repast ; indeed, the crows were so impatient that they carried oflf most of the prog before the poor Burmese had done with their devotions. There are very large stono basins about the temple, where people may throw in their offerings a any time, and no sooner thrown in (if any- thing eatable) than a scramble is sure to tako place for the contents between the birds and the beasts ! The Burmese have no caste like the natives of Madras and Bengal. They will not take life for food, nor kill any animal; but if you shoot an old cast horse in the jungle, they will not hesitate to cut off a rump-steak, stick it on the top of a bamboo, and carry it home for supper. They live chiefly on vegetables, rice, and fish, which they have in abund- ance. When the fish exposed for sale in the hot sun becomes putrid, theyj throw it wholesale into a wooden trough with chilies, mash it up into a pulp, call it Napee, and it meets with a ready sale for a curry ! The Burmese are a stout and athletic race of fine men, middle size, inquisitive, intelligent, and of a gay and lively disposition, seemingly without any prejudices ; they will eat anything, a ad drink brandy without a scruple ; tobacco grows in abundance, and you may always see a quid in every man's mouth, or one ready stuck in a hole in the lobe of his ear. The men are tattooed from the waist to the calf of the leg with various figures ; they are very active in their games, and very strongly built. I have seen one of them carry away two sepoys to hospital, slung in two baskets over his shoulder. They would make excellent soldiers for a colonv. The women are short, stout, and well formed, but very plain ; one seldom sees a pretty girl ; the nose rather flat, high cheek- bones, and their teeth always black from the constant use of betel-leaf and chunam, which is disgusting to a European. Both sexes are of a copper hue. They much resemble the Malays and the Celestials. The dress of the fair sex is peculiar to Burmah, — a narrow piece of cloth, a kiiid of silk plaid tucked under the arms and across the bosom (which is pressed down), open down the front, so that in walking one leg and thigh is GOOSE EGGS. 223 always exposed. They wear sometimes a loose white robe, or jacket with sleeves ; their jet-black hair is combed back, well oiled, and tied in a knot behind, sometimes with flowers inter- mixed. Their ornaments are gold ; they despise silver ; a long »oll of thin gold, like a carpenter's chip from his plane, is stuck into a hole in the lobe of the ear, until sometimes it liangs or is dragged down to the shoulder by its own weight, and this is their chief ornament. The men have no beards, long or short, and the ladies are sold occasionally for c€. s. d. I saw an old couple one day with their daughter pass into one of our officers' quarters. I followed in to see if it was all true that I heard about the sale of Burmese girls. After somo haggling a barg.ain was struck, the great fool of the party paid down the amount of sale in hard cash, tho papa tied it up in a red cotton Man- chester handkerchief, and walked away with his withered old spouse without saying a single word to the young lad[/, who sat like a frog, quite unconcerned, smoking a cheroot ! Perhaps she considered herself a wife, the wife of a British grenadier ! I said to my friend, " What on earth tempted you to buy that turkey ? " ^' Why do you call her a turkey ? " he said. " Oh, just because she was sold like a turkey to a goose," and I l)oltcd off. I got some fine goose eggs for breakfast one morning, and considered myself in great luck when my hutlcr told mo I might have them often. When boiled, the yolk was very bright crimson, and the wldte very like pale starch, with a peculiar JisJiy taste ; I got half through one, when I called my black market boy to explain how and where he got the goose eggs. " No goes egg, marsa ; dem crockadile egg. Crockdile lay him in de sand, tip de creek. Burmese hunt him up, and sell him in do bazar." In shape and size they would deceive any one, so like were they to the dear old goose's egg at home. We got turtle eggs next day, which I did not relish either ; the shell is soft, and about tho size of our duck egg at home : they were cheap and nasty. A good many Chinese are settled here ; very industrious, inoffensive people ; they trade in anything and everything ; they changed my gold^ and gave mo twenty per cent, premium. 224 BURMESE WAR-BOATS. } I was told that tliey sold it again at thirty per cent, to tlio native soldiers and followers, they not having any means of carrying nnich silver in safety about their person ; for thoy hoarded all their savings to take back to Madras. The Chinese feasted here in the most luxurious way upon swine, which they love above all meats, bought alive from the T ese, who could or would not even kill a pig, but had no c jction to a pork chop. Our ration was a pound of very tough buffalo beef, a brown biscuit, hard as horn, often alive, and a dram of arrack, per diem. I had a couple of goats which I brought from Madras for milk, knocked up a little poultry-yard, and had fresh eggs. Everything was so very dear, we required to bo very econo- mical and to keep our eyes open. Beer two shillings a bottle; butter, when v/e could get any, eight shillings a pound ; a small leg of mutton was sold for twelve rupees, or 24s., a luxury in which I never indulged. But towards the end of the war we fared better. Venison came into t^ )azaar, with yams, plantains, and poultry, at a moderate pr: ut wo had to wait a long time. They have very fine canoes of all sizes. I have seen one large enough to carry sixtij men, hollowed out of the trunk of ono teak tree, the sides raised with planks, decorated and painted. This was called a war-boat, and well manned ; they go at a rapid pace against the stream with so many oars. During the war a very little steamboat built at Calcutta was sent to Rangoon, and was of great service for communication with the chief, Sir A. Campbell. These Burmese war-boats were then very formidable on the river, and were always on the look-out for our materiel going up. On her first trip, the Diana fell in with one of them, that had been lying in a creek manned with sixty oars. Thinking that the steamer was ono of our large boats on fire, they shot out into tho stream to make a prize. Seeing this enemy approach, all tho steam was put on, and a dash made at tho warrior, which started off at full speed up the river, the little steamer in chase. No Burmese had ever seen a steamboat before, and a vessel running against wind and tide without sails, oars, or TIGEU-TIIAPS. { • 225 any visible thing but one man at tlie hebn. Tlioy took tlie alarm, said it was the d 1 from the deep, and while con- sulting what to do, the Blani was gaining on them s ) fast and so near that they all with one consent jumped overboard and swam to shore and hid themselves in the jungle. The boat was taken in tow and brought down to Rangoon, a beautiful specimen of a war-canoe. The majestic talipot and palmyra trees suffered much here- abouts in the war. Thousands were hewn down to open the country and circulate a freer current of air. About our camp the cocoa-trees alone were spared ; but indeed the whole country was one great forest for twenty miles around. The trees, plants, and flowers were rare and beautiful, foreign to any I had ever seen ; plenty of cover for tigers near at hand, and dangerous neighbours they were, coming into and poaching on our grounds at night, and carrying off a goat as a cat would a mouse. The Burmese trapped them now and then. A strong teak wooden cage, built in the jungle and secured; a partition at one end for the bait, and a jolly big door to admit his royal highness the tiger when he called. A goat or a kid was placed in the drawinij-roova., quite in safety, but visible through the bars. The tiger walked in, the trap-door fell as ho put his foot on the spring, and there he was without much room to dash about and break his prison, neither could he touch the poor, trembling, half-dead little animal beside him. Walking one day through this forest I fell in with a tiger-trap, and while examining its simplicity and strength, a jungle-fowl got up and flew into a thicket close by. Wishing to see this wild hen, I threw a stick into the bush to flush her out, when the frightful growl of a tiger made me quake. I cut away as hard ^ as I could tear, and never looked behind me until I got out of the wood. The jungle-fowl is first cousin to our domestic hen, who once on a time went into the woods a little way from home, laid her eggs, hatched her brood, and let them grow up wild, and so they multiplied to become a great people. There is a wild-game caste in their plumage. They are not as largo as the common barn-door fowl, but are as tender and good as any pheasant. Q 22G PALMYllA TODDY. Tlio natives tap tlio palmyra-trcc for tocldyj \vhicli is very nice and rcfresliing if drunk before sunrise ; after tliat it ferments, and is used as barm for bakers, and becomes an intoxicatin*^ and dan<^crous drink. The tree itself is very tall, and straij^'lit as a rannxxl, l)ut r[uickly ascended in tliis way : — An active young fellow throws a girdle very loosely about his body and the tree, then throws himself back into the strap, places the soles of his feet against the tree, works himself up as quickly as you ])lease, takes out his knife, makes an incisioi., and sticks in a peg, under which he fastens a little pot to catch the sap as it flows. lie may have a dozen of those pots on every tree to empty the next morning, when ho climbs again for his toddy, which lie puts into a h)ng wide bamboo can on his back, and then comes down at a running pace. I took a glass of this toddy one very hot day at noonwliich nearly killed me; I did not get over the effects of it for three days; but I was then a Griffin, i.e. a now comer, a "Johnny Nowcome," inexperienced, and tmnbling into all sorts of diffi- culties and dangers. I met a few natives yesterday some distance from tlic camp while strolling in the woods; they camo up to me as an old acquaintance without any ceremony or formality, and began a conversation which was all Hebrew to me. One fellow minutely examined my buttons, which had a crown and the No. 45; this amused and astonished them all very much; they felt the texture of the cloth in my ja(;kot, and everything about me ; but when I turned up my sleeve, and showed an arm tattooed like themselves, they expressed great d(,'light, and I Avas their l)rother at once, then; fu flier, and their friend ! 1 liked their off-luuid, independent manner; there was a sort of gay straightforwai-d honesty about the resi- dent friendly natives here, that F had never seen before amongst any foreign people. Jiut tliey were all n'vtiiavs, not soldiers fighting for his Majesty of the golden foot, master of the sun and moon, king and emperor, I'uler of all nations, possessor of the white elephant, iStc. &c. ; a great don in his secluded ignorance, a barbarous heathen, who despised his enemy, and sent his best general, Bandoolah, "to drive all the red-coats into the sea, and cut up and burn the black troops who wore all SANDFOKD AND J3KNNETT. 227 idolaters." Hero ho was ri^^lit, hut only diflcroJ himself in colour, being a very gross idolater. Two officers of my regiment coming down the river in a canoe from Prome, sick, and ordered to sea, put ashore in the heat of the day to cook some dinner, and take a s/t'.s'/ci ; neither of them keeping watch, nor sleeping with one eye open, like old soldiers. They were betrayed by their boatmen, taken prisoners and bound with cords, after being plundered ; one was Dr. Sandford, the other Lieutenant Jiennett. They were marched across the country all the way to Ava, the capital, and from thence to Amarapoora, where the king's Majesty of the golden foot then resided ; here they were placed in a dungeon, in fetters, and fed like wild beasts. On three occa- sions, as our army gained some victory and advanced, they were taken out to have their heads cut off, or disembowelled, but after much consultation were remanded. 'J^lie king fortunately took ill at this time, and was recommended to con- sult his ])risoner, who was an English doctor. A half-caste Portuguese about the court, who spoke some of our ditUcult language, was interpreter, and the doctor was taken out of his den, and ushered into the presence. He found that his Majesty had been gormandizing, like many other kings and potentates, had a slight fit of indigestion, prescribed, and put him in eating order in a few days, and so got into favour, and got some additional food, but no liberty. Poor ]{eimett was still unihought of or seen by any one but his jailer, who took him his scanty prison diet once a day. Towards the close of the war, when his Majesty was forced to accept the terms offered, he sent for the doctor and askcnl if ho could bo relied on to carry a despatch to the great chicif of the army of red-coats. Sandford replied, " Yes, and I will return with an answer.'* This astonished the whole court, for none sup[)osed for a moment that ho would bo such a R])oon as to come back. Ho arrived in tko camp very like a wild savage, delivered his d( s- patch to Sir Archibald Campbell, and returned with an answ(M', to the amazement of all the court, telling the king, by inter- pretei', that an Englishman always keeps his word of honour ci 2 228 THE RHAHANS. when pledged, even to Ws enemy. They were now both released, the king gave Sandford one of his best horses, which he brought home to England ; but the very rough usage those two officers received shortened their days ; they both died early. Poor Sandford used to sympathize with himself, and grind his teeth when he told the story about his watch '^ being grasped by those vagabonds ; tliey bound me tight, and rifled my pockets, taking out my gold repeater ; they heard the tic, tic, and passed it round, each one putting it to his ear, thinking it was alive; when the chief of this cut-throat gang knocked it against a stone and killed it ; being sent round again, it was pronounced dead, and I saw it no more ! " The lUiahans, or priests, wear a long robe of yellow coarse cloth, reaching down to their heels ; their heads are shaven, and always uncovered in the house and out of doors under the hottest sun. They neither cook their own victuals nor beg, but subsist entirely upon alms. I have seen them issue forth every morning from their kiooms with their lacquered basins in hand, to collect from the laity a supply of provisions for the day. They wander along, looking neither to the right nor to the left, never asking for anything ; but are amply supplied by the charitable and religious. En imnsavt, when they have col- lected a sufficient supply of boiled rice and vegetables for the day^s consumption, they return home, teach the children to read and write, and take care of the idols. They observe celibacy. I have seen the idols manufactured by an artist in Rangoon, who sat in a shed, squat, like a frog, hammering out a piece of silver to get it as thin as paper ; it was then shaped on a block (a model of the idol Gaudma), and when well licked into proper shape and dimensions, and polished off, it was taken off block, andfdledup with a cement, which soon became as hard as a stone, and ready for the market ! I had a silver bowl made for myself by one of these ingenious artisans. I gave the fellow a bag of rupees (being first weighed) , which were melted into a pretty thick sheet, then hammered into a shape on a block, embossed, with an inscription in Burmese around it, which no one can read but myself I It is used as a sugar-basin up to this 1866, and considered a SAGACIOUS ELEPHANT. 229 curiosity by the unlearned ! It weiglied the same amount of silver I gave the jeiveller, he being paid for his work. The native gohhmit/ts in India turn out some beautiful and sub- stantial gold ornaments ; you give the gold in advance weighed, the same weight is returned, and so much paid for the work ; you are sure to have your ornaments of pure gold. Not so in England ; if you dig deep enough, you will find a good foun- dation of copper. I believe the artisans in India are all descendants from Job ; they are the most patient people on earth. You may find one of these naked fellows, black as Day and Martin, squat on his heels in the sun, with the most primitive, rude, coarse tools one could imagine, working a Trichinopoly chain of exquisite art ; and there he will sit for days and weeks with the most imperturbable calmness. A large tiger was killed yesterday near to our quarters in the jungle j he had kept the district in which he lived in constant terror and alarm, most likely the same one I had disturbed the other day, for it was near the same ground that he was sur- rounded by a host of liiu'meso, who closed in upon him with their spears and dahs. They are very expert with the spear, which is their chief weapon ; they throw it a good distance with skill and certainty. Srd Decemhev. — I was amused to-day seeing the disem- barkation of twelve elephants sent from Calcutta to be used in the war. Two wide flat-bottomed boats lashed together, laid over with ])lanks and green branches, shoved off to the ship lying in the stream. They were put in the slings below, and hauled up in great terror; when lowered on to the raft, they would not move a foot until every inch of ground around them was felt by the trunk to see and feel that all was safe and firm, yet still they would not move. I'he raft, with ^jur at a time, was drawn near to shore by the jielp of a windlass, the bauks being of deep mud. The Mahout urged them by coaxing, persuasion, and threats, to step off the i)latform and go ashore, where plenty of jack-fruit branches, a favourite dish of theirs, was in waiting for them before their eyes. They hesitated a long time ; at length one of them Jntclt down, ran his long trunk into the mud, and felt the depth and solidity of the 230 TACTICS. bottom, which was satisfactory, for he advanced one foot now into the mud, and felt again if he was safe, then another, and so on, feeling- his way step by step till he got out of the mud. He then took up a branch, more than I could lift, and flapped away the flies with as much nonchalance as a lady would use her fan, seemingly very happy. Employed myself getting up a bath in my dwelling-house, for I was melting away to bare bones with intolerable, clammy heat. I cut i bamboo in the jungle quite as thick as a nine- pounder, which I formed into a trough, and fastened up in mj bedroom, one end passing into mj dressing -closet through the partition. Two coolies carried up from the tank a supply of water ; I sat on a camp-stool inside ; the water was then emptied into the trough, and came pouring on top of me like a mill-race — a delicious cooling luxury. My bath wa^ generally approved of, and adopted by the ofhcers all around me. We had a parade always in the morning, which was got over by eight or nine o^clock. Our commanding ofiicer was a great dunce at the drill, I suppose being long out of practice, living up at Kandy in Ceylon with his head-quarters, which might have numbered twenty men, band, drums, and standards. Ho came on parade always book in hand, in which there were manoouvrcs enough to bother tlie brains of the British army, and ninc-tenths of them useless. However, he always stuck to one at a time, carefully reading it aloud before he began the puzzle. When I come to be Commander-in-chief I shall have a grand revision of this book, and limit the mancouvres to five or six, make it less complicated, and so distinct that every suh may be able to handle a regiment after one year's service. If you attempted one-half of the present mancouvres in the battle- field, you would get into such a tangle with the enemy you could not escape nor re-form before the cavalry would cut down and disperse all before them, with little danger or loss on their side. You would lose your men and your reputation as a soldier. Quarter-distance column is the first, best, and safest formation in going to work ; deploy on any company ; forin squares, simply and quickly in many ways; advance and retire in lino MAL DU PAYS. ' 231 or column. What more do you want in action upon tlio level? All the rest are very pretty in the Phccnix Park, or in London, if one could see the performance there, and may be useful as a drill, but nothing more. Any old soldier who has seen good, honest, fair fighting on the plains, front to front, will, I think, agree with me that those fancy movements are dangerous. However, my commanding officer at this time knew nothing about them. After parade I dressed in light marching order for the rest of the day — that was, in my shirt and trousers, and lay upon a mat on the floor till the sun dipped into the forest. I had no books ; it was a monotonous life to lead, but I could not help it. I kept my journal strictly day by day, which afforded me some help to pass the time. My chum was away up with the army, and I was expecting the hookum to follow every day. My corps was now a good deal detached. I had two or three dinner parties ; those invited sent their servants with their rations, beer, chair, knife, fork, and spoon. I had the banquet-hall and a large pot for making broth, and with a buffalo's head along with the ration beef we had most excellent soup, plenty of vegetables, and always a curry. We had three young officers very ill and very desponding; one of whom had a wife at Madras. I kept visiting them all, and endeavoured to cheer them up day after day, but all in vain ; they could not get up the slightest assurance of any hope. I never saw three young fellows so utterly prostrated ; they would say to me, " Do try and got me off to sea, then I know I should recover, but here I must die, and never to see home again — ^tis cruel." They were right ; had they been sent to sea I have no doubt of their recovery. I spoke to the doctor, but he did not think them so very ill, and was very averse to give any sick certificates, as he said " nobody likes this horrid climate, and every one with a bit of a fever wants to got away." Poor Grey and Forbes died in a few days, and wo buried them under a talipot-tree near our quarters. The other lad was sent on board a ship, but too late ; he also died. He was brou a rude sort of car, partly gilt, and parti} covered witb I'-^li of scarlet. He was taken out of his box, laid upon son-*' ^ ' nks, and washed, and his old carcass was then covered .vicn gilt paper, purple velvet, and scarlet cloth. After some chanting or grunting amongst an immense crowd of spectators, who looked merry and careless, the corpse was put into a coflin, and the coffin placed in a canopy twenty feet high, adorned with scarlet cloth and much gilding. A rope was stretched about 200 feet from the canopy, or golden bower, as they called it, and fastened to an upright pole in the ground, llockets were discharged along this rope, and went bang into the bower. This play continued for an hour, until the sarco- 2)Jiarj}is was considerably damaged. There was yet one great gun in reserve — an immense bamboo, loaded to the muzzle with gunpowder and placed up close to the bower. It went into the priest with an awful roar, setting all in a blaze, until his holiness, dwelling and all, was consumed to ashes ; and so ended this barbarous ceremony — yet not half so barbarously wicked as the suttee in Beno-al. One of my soldiers brought me a snake this morning, twelve feet long, and as thick as my leg, with a long forked tongue hanging out of his ugly mouth. It was " chai'ge bayonets " as the reptile was intruding into his quai'ters. The Cobra and the Green Pelonga snake enjoy good health about these grounds; and another reptile, something between a lizard and an alligator, resides in old walls, in the roofs of houses, and about the old pagodas, and sings out all night with a loud voice, "Petto, petto, o, o." The natives dread them as venom- ous, and so did I, when one of them, up in the rafters above my bed, kept me awako with his monotonous growl all night. 1 saAV a young Burmese girl or wife to-day, sitting at her door facing the street, with a child at one breast and a little dog at the other, both or all three enjoying themselves in the sun. The ladies are not particular in exposing the upper part of their body j they are always in light marching order this weather, very indolent and lazy. Rice is cheap, sixty pounds for a tickal (two shillings and sixpence) ; vegetables and fruit I EXCHANGE. 247 most abuntlant^ so tliey have few wants unsujoplied. Many cast liorscs of late liave been sliot in the jungle, wliicli feasted tlie Burmese and the vultures to their full content; neither party ashamed of their meat. The wreck of our army began to assemble about Rangoon. The Ptoyals, 13th, 38th, -ilst, 45th, 47th, 87tli, and 89th regiments of British, besides many corps of Sepoys from Madras and Bengal, the latter nearly all used up, many of them literally skin and bone; I never saw such living skeletons. My fortune turned to-day on the call of a young officer of the Royals at my quarters. Talking of home, he said, "I would rather remain in this country; my regiment is going to England, and I shall bo put on half-pay, being a supernu- merary, which would not suit me at all.^' And so the matter dropped. A few days after an order came for every regiment to embark with convenient speed before the monsoon, ex- cepting the 45th, which corps was to remain in the country — woeful news for some people ! I called on my young Royal friend, and asked if he vfas now inclined for an exchange. '^ Yes," he said, " this moment ; let's change jackets for surety ! " We did so then and there, and sent in our papers. I became the 22nd lieutenant of my regiment, with a poor prospect of promotion ; but released from Ava, and a grave under a talipot-tree, I was satisfied, and began to make fresh acquaintance with royalty. A tiger came prowling into our cantonment last night, and carried off a small pony for his supper. Its poor mangled carcass was found in the morning amongst the pagodas, after which the dogs had their share of the feast. There seems to be some trouble in collecting the first instal- ment of the crore of rupees to be paid as an indemnity for the war according to treaty. The ladies are called upon to con- tribute to the general fund by throwing their gold ornaments into the scale. How very ungallant ; the earrings, or bolts, and bangles are disappearing. I suppose our collectors were a long time in scrnping out of the king's treasury this enormous amount of tickals, for it was fourteen years afterwards before I got my share of prize-money ! 248 A THUNDERSTORM. The Enterprise steamer, the first that ever came to India, arrived here from Calcutta, and astonished the natives, as well as every one else. She was a fev/ days after her time, to gain the reward ; but the captain and owners were well recompensed for the risk, and John Cotnpdny purchased her at a high figure. She returned to Calcutta with Sir Archibald Campbell and his staff under a salute of seventeen guns. All was now hurry-scurry to got away, the sick foremost ; they were laid up in sheds in different parts of where the town stood last week, for it was nearly all consumed by fire, and it burned like a bonfire, being a city of dried bamboo. There was no carriage or transport for the invalids ; some were carried down to the wharf by the Burmese, two in a basket; others crawled down on hands and knees ; I saw one poor sinner going along at a snail's pace, on his hacli, feet foremost, kicking his bundle before him, so anxious to get away. May 3rd. — Ne\^er in the course of my life did I experience such an awful and alarming night as the last ; it seemed as if all the artillery of heaven had been opened upon our camp. It was exceedingly dark before the storm began ; but tlio lightning illumined the face of the earth till it was bright as day. It came down in all shapes, in clouds of fire, in long bars, forked, in i^ound balls in thousands, that exploded like shells as they neared the earth ; if it had not been for the rain, that fell in torrents, I think the tents would have been on fire. All the thunder and lightning put together that I ever experienced was nothing in comparison to this frightful storm ; it made every one in the camp quake and tremble. The monsoon had set in. Went up to take a last survey of the'great temple ; it is a wonderful building of solid brick. The bells were chiming in the breeze ; the great bell was in its old position ; it can cover sixteen soldiers standing with fixed bayonets; a grand procession had just come up from the town, and were casting their offerings into the stone basins, very many of the Madras coolies in waiting for a feast, and to cheat tho dogs,"" the oflferings to-day being rice, plantains, melons, jack- fruit, sweetmeats, pine-apples, rice-cakes, flowers, and gilt paper. As the natives retired, there was a general rush at the ADIEU TO AVA. 249 flesL-pots; kites, crows, dogs, and coolies contended for the contents, and gobbled up everything, the Burmese worshippers looking on with dignified contempt and indifference. The people are flocking into Rangoon now, and very familiar and friendly in their tone and manner. They bring poultry and venison into the bazaar, and know the value of money ; but the good things are coming too late after the long starva- tion, very nearly up to a famine. Most of the troops are gone, and, thank goodness, my new regiment is under orders to embark for Madras. Spear in hand I went for a long stroll into the jungle in a new direction ; met Sir W. Cotton and his staff, with an escort of dragoons at their heels. He advised me to return, for there was still a very troublesome chief not far off, and I might be trapped and treated like a tiger. General Cotton was a jolly, kind, good-hearted soldier. Glad to meet him, I took his advice and gave up jungle exercise. The last Sunday in Ava was, like all the other former Sabbath days, kept unholy, a day of drunkenness and riot, swearing, singing, and debauchery. There was no church, no parson, no controlling power to sub- due vice and immorality. The poor heathen people who were bhnd and ignorant, worshipping their images, conducted them- selves with more sobriety and gentleness than most of those who professed themselves Christians. Religion was laughed at ; anything serious was turned into a jest ; but the Scripture cannot be broken ; all will come right in the end, the Gospel of Peace will be proclaimed here far and wide, until all shall believe that the Lord is God and Christ is the only Saviour. 250 CHAPTER XVI. At Sea. — Arrival at Madras. — A Severe Tea. — Summary Punishment. — The Bag of Ilupees. — March to Bangalore. — A Curious Idol.— Danuil- Wallagahnagur.— Arcot-Vellore. — Pallicondah. — The Moharum Feubt. — The Ghauts. — Eice-fields. — A Surprise. — Arrival at Bangalore. May IGtJi, 1S26. — I embarked with the hoad-quartors of the Royal regiment, my now corps, on board the Eliza, Captain Mahon, a ship of 530 tons. Three hundred and forty soldiers, seventy black servants, and with the officers and crew altogether about five hundred souls, packed as tight as herrings in a barrel. The black gentry stowed themselves away in the chains, or in any corner where they could freely breathe, although they were exposed to the rains and squally weather day and night. Myself and two other officers were stowed away in a wretched little dark dog-kennel hole, without air or light and with a strong perfume of the cockroach. We lay at anchor in the river, waiting a pilot, all the next day. In the mean time I went ashore, to inquire after my poor fricud. Captain J. F ^ whom I had been attending for the last week on a sick-bed. The 45th had just marched into Rangoon, the baggage all lying out in the rain. The men were soaked in wet, and every one looking miserable. I met my old chum, Captain S , and asked, " How is Forbes ? " " Alas ! poor fellow, he is at rest. We laid him beside poor Gray this morning before we marched off — under the clump of palmyra-trees. Cut off" in his bloom, universally liked and respected for his mild, social, and gentle manners, amiable disposition, a safe friend and companion, and strictly honourable in all his actions." " Well, S , how do you get on, and what do you mean to do ? " '' Well, you see, wo married fellows are all wretched ABRI.'AL AT MADRAS. 251 — not a bamboo to cover our beads. Our wives and families are coming to join us hero, and when we applied for quarters, were told to build bouses or buy tliem ! " '' Your sbip is getting under weigh, sir/' said some one close by. A shake-hands, and a rapid departure. Got on board wet to the skin. Soon got round Monkey Point, and lost sight of Rangoon — I hoped for over. Wq had not been many days at sea when sickness broke out in our ship. Eight poor fellows were thrown overboard. I was one of the first attacked. Bilious fever, pains all over me, great debility, and loss of appetite. The captain took mo very kindly into his own cabin, and with attentive medical skill I got over a very dangerous illness in a fortnight. Captain Bennett was also very ill, not having half recovered the vile treatment he suffered in his captivity in the donjon at Ava. Juno 6tJi. — Since 23rd May, heavy rains, baffling winds, and hard squalls. The ship had no ballast, and every squall laid her on her beam-ends, and every tack we made the guns were dragged across the deck, and all hands followed, to keep the vessel from careening over. The estimate value of a soldier being £100 a head, by " John Company,'^ the balance being struck between the freight of a transport and even ten lives, " John Company " was the loser. And so it has been the case as long as I remember, the life of a soldier was no considera- tion. Here we had 340 well-seasoned, good, old warriors, pitched into the hold of a small ship not sea-worthy, where half of them had not standinof-room, and the other half alwavs wet to the skin by the heavy monsoon rains ; and this continued for thirty-four days ! The weather was frightful. After the first twenty-two days, we were as far from Madras as when we left the Irawaddy river. We had a most tempestuous voyage along the coast of Sumatra. It blew so hard off Acheen Head that the captain did not hesitate to say that we were in great peril. He had to beat down all this way out of the direct course to catch a wind for Madras, where we happily arrived on the night of the 18th of June. Went ashore next day for my letters, and to hear the news at head-quavters. All very good. Instead of my regiment 252 A SEVERE TEA. going homo to England, I foiinci tliem under orders for Ban- galore, the best station in the Presidency. I went now in search of two ladies of my old regiment, to give them very many messages from their husbands at Rangoon. I could not get any sort of conveyance, and by the time I found them out, some distance in tlio country, I had not a leg to stand on ; I was so weary and worn and scorched by a tropical sun. I found them all well, their baggage packed, and ready for sea. A hundred questions were asked me in ten minutes. I endeavoured to find replies, but was so exhausted, that I asked for a respite till after tea, having had no dinner. I adjourned into the hall with a dozen ladies, and astonished them with my sea-appetite. Seven weeks grinding at ship-biscuit tries one^s jaws ; here it was all nice bread and fresh butter. After demolishing ten good slices, I begged the ladies not to take any notice of mo, as I had a hungry fever, and was only going to begin my tea. A pretty young girl beside me kept my plate well supplied, until I was really ashamed of a barbarous appetite. " And now, ladies, I devote the rest of the evening to 3'our inquiries about the land of promise.'^ " What kind of houses have they got? good bazaar ? plenty of provisions ? good shops — palkee- bearers ? — tell us all.^' " Well, ladies, I may not deceive you, or you will suffer from disappointment ; tliere is no house in Rangoon which any of you would inhabit from choice. There is a bazaar where you may buy betel-nut, chunam, savoury fish, crocodile eggs, plan- tains, pines, mangoes, jack-fruit, and young girls.^^ " What did you say about young girls V " Why, yes ; they were toler- ably cheap when I left ; one could buy a good, fat, stout girl for one hundred rupees, some more expensive, according to shape and quality ; they have no caste." '^ O, dear ! what creatures they must be, if you are earnest in what you say." " O, indeed, they are," said I, " the ugliest devils without petticoats I ever beheld ; but there was very little demand for them of late, the laws of Ava forbidding them leaving their own country." I kept the ladies laughing until a late hour, with some little adventures or stories like the above, which, although very true, had some tinge of fable about them. I took my leave, and (h SUMMARY PUNISHMENT. 253 made for Fort St. Georgo, promising a spce Jy return to aid my fair friends in getting off to sea, stretched my weary bones on the broad red bricks in a barrack-room on a mat, and slept like a fish till dawn, when every one is up and away to ride, walk or bathe. 1 made for the beach, and found my company had just landed, fell in, and marched away to Codoonpaukum camp, about seven miles out on the Bangalore road; here we were ordered to halt ten days, to fit out our men, who were in rags. I was introduced by Major L. McLean to our Colonel, Sir R. Armstrong, whom I had not seen before, and who was considered a great disciplinarian. I apologized for asking a favour so soon after joining his regiment : my family were at Negapatam, 1 wished to gather them up and follow the regiment to Bangalore. After considerable importunity, I got two months^ leave and was joyful: all applications after mine were refused. I had no conveyance, no cabs by the wayside ; and so I had to walk seven miles back to Madras, where I hired some servants, bought a horse and buggy, and made a beginning. I stopped at the Fort to breakfast with a young fellow there, and a very wild one he turned out afterwards. There were two bad ecfofa served up with some fish, that had lain in the sun too long ! He called up his cook, locked the door, got hold of a big dog- whip, and asked why he bought had things with his (jooH money. " Take up those two rotten eggs," he said, " and eat them both, shells and all, or I will whack your black life out." *' 0, massa ! please, I dou^t do it again." Crack ! went the whip round his legs. " 0, massa ! I eat ^em." He was now driven into a corner; another crack of the whip, and ho gobbled up one of them. "That will do now; the next time you won't get off so sliarpcr as you tell me every day." Exit the cook, with all the savoury things, looking over his shoulder for another crack of the whip. "Is that the usual way," I said, "of managing servants here ? " " Yes, when one's robbed every day ; that fellow is a great rascal, he gets things, plenty simper as he says, all bad, and pockets half of the bazaar money. You will find them out soon enough. Do you know," he said, " that Lieutenant M of ours was robbed lately of seven hundred rupees he 254 THE BAa OP EUPEES. had saved ; it was in his trunk, no one had access to the room but his hoad-/>o7/. We got him into the hall, tried him, and found him guilty ; there were only three of us on the court. We put a stout rope over the rafter above, fastened the door, put a loop in the rope, and threw it over his head. ' Now,^ we said, * this is your last chance : whereas the rupees ? or up you go ! " ^ Please, mossa, can't tell, if you hang me, I don't know/ We then gave him a hoist, when he gobbled out, 'I tell, I tell !' Down he came. ' Well, where did you hide the rupees ? ' ' O, massa, I was choke, and I say I tell, 'cause much feared ; don't know.' K was in a. great rage, sir, and swore a big oath that he would now go up to the rafters and never come down alive. Blackie thought this alarming, but protested his innocence. So up he went again, and in a half- choking condition blubbering out, ' I do know ; I tell, I tell, massa, let down.' So down he came, frightened nearly out of his black hide, took us all out into the compound and dug up the bng of rupees 1 " I knew all this to be very true from another partj^-, and I knew many such things afterwards worse and worse ; but still those black servants were ill used for very trifling offences, and there is no perfection. I hastened to my two lady friend j and assisted them to get on board their ship for Rangoon ; jhey were quite alone, bag- gage all safe and ihy, trying to be joyful ] they took their de- parture never to return. Mrs S was a very excellent, good soldier's wife, and could rough it better than her companion Mrs. A , who was a very pretty, delicate creature. Poor souls, they little knew in what a wretched place they wore going to leave their bones. Lieutenant- Colonel S arrived from England to take command of the loth, but was spared the voyage across, being suddenly cut ofl" from the land of the living in a few hours. People get short notice in this country to meet death, therefore it is wise to be always ready. Jul II 9th. — Took up my quarters at " Egraoro Retreat," with my kind friend IJ L n, a partner in the house of Binny & Co., and here my wife joined me with our bonnio MARCH TO BANGALORE. 255 lassie. I believe slie was afraid I would liave taken another coasting voyage in a DJiony to look after her, and saved me the journey by starting off at once fur Madras, where she arrived in safety after s-ix nights' travel over two hundred miles of a wild country. Little Mary, now but five years old, was her only inter})reter speaking the Malabar language like a native, and with all their gesture; she made all my bargains for mo, and was as useful as she was sweet, pretty, and ornamental. Here wc enjoyed life for some weeks, always mixing of an evening with the heau-monde on the sea- beach for our drive, and meeting our friends. There is ever an alloy to one's happiness in the journey of life ; my poor wife was taken dangerously ill in the night with fever and inflam- mation. A long way to send for a doctor in the dark, bleeding and blistering Ijofore morning, again repeated, calomel ad- ministered, and with those remedies now in disuse a perfect cure was effected. We commenced our march for Bangalore on the 9th August, 1826, the palkee in advance with my wife and child. I followed in my bandy, as it is called (buggy in English), the butler, cook, and waiting-boy always going forward the evening before, and Laving breakfast all ready on our arrival at the halting-place. The co\v^ry -bearers kept up with the palankeen, each man carried two baskets suspended in slings from the bamboo which was balanced across the shoulder. These baskets contained changes of dress, provender, wine and brandy, plate, tea cups, &c. A cooly carried a couch on his head, on which wo sat by day under the shade of a tree, and on which I slept by night; I required no covering. Another cooly carried a trunk on his head, containing my wardrobe for tho march. The horse- keeper always sticks by his horse night and day, the grass- cutter going on before with the heel-ropes and picketing-sticks. Women and children travel at their leisure. A il these people feed tliemselves; they got their wages monthly, and seldom or ever touched our food. Arrived at Cunnatoor, twelve miles from Madras, encamped under some mulbeiTy trees, sat down to a good breakfast at nine o'clock. Nothing remarkable hero but the tailor-birds above head, sewing tho leaves together to 256 MARCH TO BDNGALORE. form a nest, wliich is suspended from a branch, and keeps dangling in tlie air with every breeze. 10^/*. — Got under weigh at five o'clock, and arrived at Strec- perraatoor at nine, a very excellent choultry, twelve miles from the last. The road was so bad and so very rough, I got knocked about from one side of the bandy to the other. I came in with a violent headache, which laid me up for the whole day. I was merely able to walk to the Brahmins' Choultry, which was close by, in the cool of the evening : it was a very large and fine building, originally built by a native for travellers of his own caste. He was a very rich man, had three wives, but no children ; and as it is considered an.act of great devo- tion to build one of these resting-places, the two mentioned were erected by him at an enormous expense ; one for Euro- peans, and the other for Brahmins. A strong regiment might form line on the to}) of the latter on the front terrace, and ten lar 262 THE *' GHAUTS. bottom tired every sinew of poor Bandula ; lie stuck several times, and I was fearful he had exhausted all his strength ; however, he got me safely through them all, and brought me to the end of my stage before nine o^clock, being fifteen miles, some parts of the road being tolerably good. Our march was through a beautiful valley, surrounded by woody moun- tains, all the way ; the scenery was delightful. I passed and repassed the palankeen several times, but arrived first at the bungalow, which stood on the side of the road on a delightful plain in the midst of the hills, a lake before the door, the green fields affording pasture for the cattle (a very uncommon thing that time of the year) and for lots of sheep and goats ; some very fine old trees surrounded our quarter, and various kinds were scattered over the plain. What a paradise it might be made by Europeans ; such a country in England would be invaluable. The village was very small, yet there was a most beautiful mosque, and here was the first place I saw the crescent on our march. We left Laulpct at half-past four in the morning of the 18th, and got to the summit of the Penauadroog pass about eight o^clock, after fording the river below, which was rapid and rather too deep for travellers. I got my bandy over with some difficulty^ and was obliged to walk the re- mainder of the stage ; the mountains were so steep, and the roads so bad, my horse had enough to do. The scenery from the top of the Ghauts was beautiful and the view magnificent ; the mountains covered with trees of the most beautiful kinds to the very top, the valleys cultivated with rice wherever there was a convenient spot ; the turtle doves and a variety of the prettiest of the feathered race hopping from branch to branch without any fear from the hawk-eyed sportsman; the crow of the jungle-cock was answered by one of his own. tribe far away amongst the rocks ; the bells at a distance denoted a drove of oxen approaching laden with rice ; the palankeen-bearers are always heard before they are seen, from the peculiar way they have of shouting as they get swiftly along. You will see a company of travelling natives with their families, the poor women carrying all their household furniture as well as a little black urchin tied on her back, also one in a basket on her RICE-FIELDS. 2(53 lioad^ tlio lazy rascals walking* without anything. The whole furniture consists of a few earthen pots for cooking their rice on tie roadside, and a mat to sleep on. 'J'hcy require no clothes, and they sit upon the ground ; if they get enough to cat they are sure to sleep enough, and they are generally healthy. I have seen them sleep in the sun with bare Leads, when I was frying in a water-oath in the house. We arrived at Naikanairry a little before nine, and put up in the bungalow ; it was very pleasantly situated on the side of a hill, a largo and extensive green all around several miles in circumference, and a good sheet of water a little below ; large herds of cattle grazing in the woods, and the various groups of native travellers making their fires, eating their rice, and feeding their cattle, gave the place a lively and singular appearance. The rice-fields, I perceived, require mucli attention. That most useful grain, which is the staff of life to all India, will only grow on level ground, because it requires to be always kept uiidrr ivatcr until it comes to a certain height ; it is often a precarious crop, for the rains sometimes are so heavy that the seed is swept away clean out of tlie earth; at other times too much drought is equally injurious, so that the crop requires the greatest care : it is always cultivated in low ground, and thus must be within wells, tanks, or large ponds of water, dammed up to bo let in gently over the fields as required. We felt a very visible change in the climate after we got clear of the low country : it was much cooler, and of course much more comfortable. Naikanairrv is a miserable little mountain village, the smallest I had seen in our route. We left next morning at half-past four, and travelled through a very poor, barren country, hardly a tree to be seen and the roads almost impassable ; my horse sometimes up to his loins in a rapid mountain stream, and a bank at the other side almost impossible to clamber up. Poor Bandula stuck in one of those nullahs ; but with some little assistance we got him out of the mire. I could not help thinking at the time //'there was such a road at home and a fellow ventured to drive his gig along it, he would be thought a madman or a great blockhead. 264 A SURPRISE. We arrived at Ventacagliirry about eight o'clock, at the bungalow, and soon after sat down to a good breakfast. It is a poor village; close by are the ruins of an old fort and ditch. We remained until four o'clock and went on to Baitmangulum, the whole distance for the day being twenty miles, a pretty long march in India with any kind of vehicle on ichcels, the roads being so extremely bad ; but our journey the day previous over the pass being only ten miles, I attempted to get on the next two stages in one day, to give mo an extra one at Bangalore, to get my house in order before my leave expired ; but when I got over about eight miles of the worst of possible bad roads in the world, it came on a most dreadful day of rain. I put up under a tree until I was soaked through, when I thought I might as well face the storm ; and a storm in India is truly terrific ; the rain comes down in torrents, the thunder is most wofully loud, and the lightning frightful. It was a providential thing I did not remain longer under the tree, for I had not advanced a mile when I found a low part of the country I had to cross completely under water. I lost all trace of the road, except here and there a rising ground with the mark of cart- tracks, which was my only guide. I made my horsekecper wade on before, in case of tumbling into a hole, where I should at least have lost my horse ; but thankful I was when, after a jour- ney of about two miles in this frightful situation, I gained the high ground; had I remained fifteen minutes longer where I first took shelter, I could not have got any further for the night, and there was not a shelter within miles ; what I feared most was getting capsized into one of those vile cavities that I found all along the roads, made by the mountain torrents. In one day's journey I have met perhaps twenty of these impassable cuts in the road, and was always obliged to take a circuit through the fields; however, I made my way to Baitmangulum a little after dark, my good little horse much tired and his shoulder chafed with the collar from the wet and exertion of dragging me through the mud so far ; all our things were well soaked with rain, and we had an uncomfortable night. We re- mained next day (the 20th) until twelve o'clock, to get our traps dried in the sun. A little before I set out, a palankeen came up, and, to my great surprise and delight, who should step out COLAR-BELLOOR. 265 but my old wortliy fi-iend, comrade, and companion, Siu*geon Hlioan. We looked at each otlier like two game cocks for a little, wlien I stretched out my hand with, '' God bless my heart and soul, Robert, is it possible I see you?" ''George Bell, as I'm a Ii\'ing man,'' says Bob. " What, in India and I not know it V Well, our hands went to work in the usual way of congratulation until both our arms were tired ; then we sat down and talked over other times when we fagged it out in Spain, lived in the same tent on the summit of the Pyre- nees with no money and little to eat, plenty of hard knocks and nothing for it, and how we met in a bungalow in the East Indies, after having lost sight of each other for ten years — and had only an hour together. Poor Bob was a very handsome, fine young fellow. When our regiment was disbanded, in the yearlSlG, ho got into the loth Light Dragoons, and six years in India had changed him much ; but his bright black eye and good honest countenance will only die with himself. We had liv ^ together almost from the time he joined the regiment until alior the battle of Toulouse, when peace was proclaimed and I went down the river Garonne to Bordeaux. I do not know anything more truly delightful than meeting an old friend in such a manner and so far from home, when there was not a European within fifty miles around, unless a solitary traveller. Well, we again shook hands, and each took a different way in hopes to meet some other day. Eivo o'clock the same evening brought me to Colar, over a worse road than over. (But I'm tired writing about roads ; I fear I shall find them no better during my journey.) The dis- tance was eighteen miles — far enough in the heat of the day, but I judged my time well, for I was not long under cover when it came on another dreadful night of rain. Colar is a small town surrounded by a mud fortification, prettily situated at the foot of a mountain, and surrounded by pine-trees. I saw several antelopes the last stage. The country was very sterile and covered with very large stones ; hardly a tree except those on the roadside. After V'^e crossed the Ghauts and got into the Mysore country, we found the bungalovv's very good all the way ; they were built by the Bajah for the accommodation of European travellers; and indeed it is a very great accommoda- IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) A "^< 1.0 I.I 11.25 |50 *■■ Mi, 1^ t 1^ 25 22 2.0 M 1 1.6 % y^ /. e. e] ^: w^w //a V 4 ^^ :\ \ 6^ 200 AlfRIVAL AT UANGALORE. tion, for wo sliould liavo eiicainpod every night otherwise, for there is no i)lace in a native village whore we could have stopped. Left Colar at five c/clock, and arrived at BcUoor in three hours, distance ten miles. I'll say nothing about the road, save that I stuck in a nullah until I was helped out. The road lies through the mountains, and I found it very cold ; indeed, the climate had been getting colder since we came through the IVnanadroog pass. Belloor is a very poor vil- lage, surrounded by a mud wall by way of a fortification ; there is a good bungalow, but nothing to be got in the bazaar save a little rice and other grain. I had my gig at the door next morning at four o'clock, and left it without regret. Found a tolerably good road all the way to Oos- cotta, where I arrived at eight o'clock (fifteen miles). There is a beautiful aveime of handsome trees all the way, many of them covered with crimson, yellow, and white llowers, a great many of them mulberry-trees loaded with fruit. The morning was extremely cold, which brought to mind days of yore. In'leed, I don't think I shall ever like a cokl climate again, although I am aware how prejudicial the great heat of India is to bhiroj)ean constitutions. Under weigh by three o'clock. I had not gone far before I repented of having started before daylight, liaviTig come to a river ; though not deep, nor very rapid, yet the bottom was laid with large round stoncjs. I was fearful my horse would have either broken a leg, or lost a shoe ] else my bandy would have gone to pieces. However, I providentially got safe over. My dog was tied behind my gig, and the force of the stream broke his cord and carried hiin dcwn, but he landed safely at the first convenient s})ot, and returned to me. I very soon got into another river, which 1 forded also, and between heavy sand and deep nuid I made my way on a very cold morning to liangalore. On my near approach to the cantonment I was at n loss where to go to find out my house ; but I soon met some of the officers, who leu the way for me to a very handsome bimgalow with large compound, whei'(> 1 found my good wife. She had received every jiossible attention on her arrival, and was quite charmed with her new quarters. 207 CHAPTER XVII. Bangalore. — Its Garrison. — Anuisoments.— The Cobra. — Its Bite cured. — A 8nake-cliarnier. — Devotees.— Sir Tliotnas jVIunro. — En Route encore. — Brahmin Women. — Naikanairry.— My Friend the Colonel. — Guzaron. — Vellore. — Mauvais Temps. — AiHiction. BANGALORE is a raost dcliglitful place, situated on tlie crest of a liill, lialf-way between IMadras and liombay. Tlie bungalows where the officers live are all detached from each other, like so many villas in the neighbourhood of a large city in Europe, each having a large coui})ound from one to twelve acres of ground, laid out partly in garden, grass, and walks planted with very beautiful trees of various kinds, shrubs and flowers ; the fruit is generally orange, punn)ella, plantains, guavas, numgoes, &c. &c. ; there are also strawberries in many gardens, and all Iciuds of European vegetables. All houses have stabling, coach-houses, and a set of servants' apartinent.s, with many other conveniences, de- tached a little way from the dwelling. Almost every house has a bath ; but it was no luxury at the time I arrived there, for the weather was so cold I was obliged to i)ut on woollen stockings and warmer clothing. I found all my baggage hud arrived, and not so much as a wine-glass broken j so I gave myself much credit for packing so well. Had I left that job to any one else, I must have been a great loser, for the black fellows are so awkward, stupid, and thick-skulled, they cannot form an idea of their own ; everything must be hammered into their stupid brains, for they would never jiick up anything themselves; eating and sleei)ing is their sole delight ; if one in a family can earn as much as will keep the rest in rice, they will sleep and idle away their time rather than work. I soon nuide my formal calls, and was received with every attention. Colonel W took mo to the Fort, and introduced mo to General Sir T. P , and afterwards to some of the 208 AMUSEMENTS. liigli-caste people in tlie cantonment. Our arrival in one of the finest and most hcaltliy quarters in India commenced with a most hearty welcome to the Royal regiment. Balls, parties, and other amusements gave a very good impression of the place to a stranger. Whether it may continue will be shown hy the sequel. At present, I never was in a more delightful quarter, nor were we ever more happy or more comfortahle. Bangalore, 2'Sr(lFcb., 1827. — Monthly halls, private parties, amateur tlieatricals, mess dinners, riding, driving, horse-racing, *i;c., were the order of the day. All our parades and field-days were over by nine o'clock in the morning. The garrison con- sisted of two brigades of horse artillery, a company of foot artilkuy, 1st regiment Native Light Cavalry, Gth, 29th, 31st, and 52nd I'cgiments of Native Infantry, and 2nd battalion lloyal regiment. Major-General Sir T. Pritzler commanded the district of Mysore, Lieutenant-Colonel Armstrong, Royal regiment, commanded the cantonment, and Lieutenant- Colonel G. A. Wetherall the battalion. Those three ofHcers were all just what those under their command could wish them to be — indulgent, kind, considerate, and strict. Colonel Wetherall was justly the most popuhir ; extremely hospitable, vei'v indulgent, he encouraged all in their enjoyments, and was a general favourite, not only with his own officers, but with every soul in the cantonment. He Avas an accomplished officer and a steady fi-iend. The public rooms were handsome and convenient; we built a theatre adjoining, and commenced operations with a comedy, which was very successful. The rosy-faced slender plants, of small size in the waist, were screwed tight into stays, well dressed, ])owdered and painted, they made very nice girls. In a few days 1 ,090 ru])ees were subscribed for new scenery. Wo had lirst-rate scene-painters and actors and decorators, and a balance, after all expenses I)aid, to go to the fund. After the play the ladies were charmed with a ball and supper, nuisic, and dancing, all included for one ru})ee a head I The General resided in ♦^^e Fort, about three miles from the cnntonniont. lie had an oi jr\s guard there, which was relieved THE COBItA, 269 daily, and a very pleasant sort of duty it was. The officer always dined at the General's table, and passed the evening most agreeably with the family. This old palace of Tippoo Sahib made a capital quarter, atfording abundance of space for the balls and entertainments frequently given by Lady Pritzler. This fortress fell to Lord Cornwallis in older times ; Tippoo's troops fought well, keeping their ground, and defending the palace until they fell to a man. The pettah, or native village, outside the walls, has a population of 70,000, not including the monkeys, a very numerous race, who live in the trees, on tops of houses, and amongst the children, quite undisturbed ; indeed, they often jump up on the back of a carriage during the evening drive, and frighten the young lady Griffins, their object being to levy a toll for passing their tope. They are first-rate active hands at robbing a garden, pitching the fruit from one to another until .1 tree is well nigh unloaded. I have seen a big fellow high up shaking a tree, while others below were gathering up the fruit, another being on the watch ready to give the alarm, many of the thieves at the time carrying their young clinging to them like wax. I met a " cobra snake " to-day riggling up to my bungalow very free and easy. I shirked his near acquaintance, and called for help. All I could get was a big stick handed to me by a nervous black fist : it served me well. I made a good shot, knocked him down, and killed him for falling. No wonder that the natives run from these reptiles, whose bite is so fatal. One of our officers, returning home after his evening ride, sat down by the table, and threw up his legs on a chair to rest, his dog walking about with his back up, grumbling all the while. My friend had not far to look for the cause of this growl ; on the chair opposite sat a big cobra de capella, half coiled up, half erect, howiug to his host. " What did you do ? " I said. " Well,'' he replied, " ho seemed very civil, and quite at home. I got hold of my gun, gave him notice to quit, and, as he left, I shot him outside, thankful I had not sat down upon my guest.'' Another officer, pulling on his boots in the morning, felt the cold, clammy, greasy damp of a snake under his foot. Ho pressed hard upon it for a moment, called his 270 ITS BITE CURED. servant, and with groat coolness said, " I want off this boot/'' A black fellow is always a boot-jack when you want one, very simple and very sure. You sit on a chair, he turns his back, and receives your boots between his legs, heel and toe in both hands ; you put your other foot to the small of his back, and send him flying boot and all before you. " Take care,'' he said, " there 's something in that boot ; shake it out — don't put your hand in j" and out dropped a snake, as lively as could be expected, at lilackie's bare feet, who made a sur- prising spring out of its way, and cut out of the room, leaving his master to square accounts with the intruder. Mrs. Sand- ford, our doctor's wife, lying on her couch one day very unwell, saw a mouse cross the room, and jump up on the sofa behind her ; by-and-by she heard and felt a rustling under her pillow ; she called her ayah (nurse or maid) to lift her off to another couch, when she discovered a large cobra snake under the pillow, who had just swallowed the unfortunate mouse. Although these snakes are so deadly venomous, they only act on the defensive ; but the slightest assault is so sharply returned, it leaves no man time to make his will. I only know of one instance where a cure was successful. A horsekeepcr, running after his master, who was riding fast across our parade- ground, trod upon a cobra, who instantly bit his leg ; ho stopped not, but followed on after his master, who had pulled up at Dr. Stodart's bungalow. The horsekeeper called out at once that he was bitten by a snake. " Are you quite sure?" he said. '' Yes, raassa, cobra, I see him ; when bite me, he dive into him's hole ; I know de place." No time was lost, the piece was cut out, and the wound cauterized. He drank brandy until drunk and stupefied; it was then poured down his throat to the extent of a whole bottle ; it was a case of kill or cure. The man was placed in a go-down, and left there insensible until the next day, when he began to stir. 'J^owards evening ho became lively, and was able to point out the hole of this reptile. We sent for two pioneers, who dug him out of his den. The doctor had him skinned, stuffed, and kept as a trophy of his skill. ^J^hose snakes burrow in the earth, or live in tho grass, or in the jungle, as it suits their convenience. A SNAKE-CHA.RMEI{. 271 IMy cook reported to me one day that he saw a " cobra " going into a hole at the back of his firephace. I was going to parade, and tokl him to tell his mistress. When I returned, she told me there was a grand hunt after this impudent fellow, who had taken up his quarters as the cook said ; but none of our servants could be induced to disturb him. She sent for a couple of men from my company, who very soon knocked down his house, and saw him escape from a hacl--door ; but ho was followed up and killed in the grass, leaving a large family of young ones behind him in his late quarters. An empty house is better than a bad tenant, at any time, and so we banished this colony of vipers. The great enemy of these snakes is the " mungoose," a very pretty little animal, living in the grass, and amongst the milk and aloe hedges. When ho meets a snake, he attacks him with a furious violence ; when bit by the cobra he lets go his hold, hurries about in the grass until he finds an antidote against the poison, nibbles it up quickly, and returns to the attack. Unless the snake gets into a hole in the mean time, ho is sure to suffer death. I had often heard of serpents being charmed : it is true that they have an ear for music, ugly and revolting as they .are. A snake-charmer came into my compound one day, and asked parmission to " kill all massa snakes." " Yes," I said, " catch and kill them all, and I will pay for them dead or alive." Ho sat down by a hole in the hedge, pulled out his hro/pijic, and began a snake concert of wild and discordant music, which lasted so long, that I got impatient standing in the sun. *' Stop, massa," he said ; " snake come." And sure enough one came out very quietly, without fear, and with great dignity raised himself up half-way, and began to keep time with the music by bending liis head and sJiouhlcrs back and forward. The 2n'pci' caught him by the tail in one hand, and slipt the other quick as lightning up to his head and held him tight. After inspecting and seeing all this performance, and the snake put into his basket with others, I had no more doubts about snake-charming; but still I am very sceptical in believing the many wonderful things one hears of; and it occurred to me afterwards that this wonderful snake-charmer might have put 272 DEVOTEES. one of his pots into this hole for the purpose, for they are very artful in deceit and falsehood. However, wild or tame, the boast came out of its hole and danced to the music ! We have a great variety of trees and plants and shrubs here, although the country about is bare enough; a small tope and a tank, the work of some religious Hindoo, is all that one sees for many miles, not far from our beautiful quarters. The trees are the " Jack,^^ a noble tree bearing large fruit like a hedge- hog, which grows from the trunk; it makes excellent furniture, resembling mahogany. The cayaputais valuable for its oil; the coffee-tree, as a shrub, grows in almost all the gardens ; useful and ornamental, it yields abundantly. The Indian lilac, a large tree, is beautiful in blossom and sweet in perfume. The pum])lomus, a very pretty tree, bearing fruit like the orange, but much larger. The liquet bears a fruit something like a small white plum ; they grow in bunches, are tart, but make a nice preserve. The guava is a common tree, yields abundantly, and the fruit makes very nice jelly. The citron, not larger than a goose- berry bush, often bears fruit half the size of my head. The mango, a beautiful tree, grows large and shady enough to screen a regiment of soldiers from the sun ; the fruit delicious. Peach and lime-trees, cassarina, cinnamon, cotton, india rub- ber, sago, talipot, cocoa ; the clove, a pretty evergreen, with a small leaf, tasting strongly of the spice ; the castor-oil plant. No end to the variety of trees, plants, and flowers. I observed two devotees yesterday in the bazaar, doing penance, or something of tomfoolery. One lay on his back in the street, naked ; in both hands he raised a very heavy large stone as high as his arms would permit. When at the full extent, he let it drop on his belly, which made him grunt, remaining motionless and in p'ain for a little ; he hoisted the stone gradually and repeated the dose. The other black lazy rascal lay on his back, his head buried under the earth. I was puzzled to find out how ho could breathe ; he had one arm extended in the air, the other lay across his (jracc. But the chditit' lay on his breast to receive the j?**ce of the charitf'blo and religious ! These fakeers are a singular race of devotees ; SIR TU0MA8 MUNltO. 273 one fellow will stand upon his legs for days, holding up one arm until it becomes as rigid as a poker, while another is measuring the road for a hundred miles with the length of his miserable carcass. I have seen another ragged bhick rascal who held one of his hands closely shut until his finger nails grew out at the back ; and all this play will go on until the gospel of peace enlightens their darkness. May bfh. — Captain Grove, H. M. 13tli Light Dragoons, and his wife, died rather suddenly at an early age. I dined in his company at Colonel VI ^s a few days before. Doctor A was of the party, and he was buried in a few days. Ho was the seventeenth passenger on board the ship that camo out with our Colonel, who had died within six years. The weather was so hot the lust two days, that we had the windows open all night and the tatties kept well soaked with water. On the 7th the change was so great, that the windows were closed and we slept under blankets. Sir Thomas Munro, Governor of the Madras Presidency, arrived hero on the 24th. We got up a play for his amuse- ment, and gave him a banquet and a very grand welcome. He went on to visit his ceded districts before leaving India, but died at Ghauty of cholera, a few days after leaving us. He was greatly esteemed and respected, and most deeply regretted. He was a man of few words, but of great pene- tration, sense, and ability, judgment and discretion. At Madras ho had a breakfast-table for all who chose to walk in at eight o'clock. It was convenient enough for many young officers to have a first-rate breakfast who had nothing at home, which was very often the case when they had a row with their servants ! Sir Thomas always had his porridge in Scotch style, and enjoyed it in silence. A young griffin just arrived from Eng- land sat down beside the Governor, intending to make himself very agreeable, as he hoped, and said boldly, *' Any late news from that war in Ava, Sir Thomas V The old Governor gave him a side glance, and i*eplied, " Eat your breakfast, sir." He was shut up at once, and no doubt wished himself in his barrack-room. I could hardly suppress a big laugh that was T 274 EN ROUTE ENCOKE. all ready when I surveyed the two faces, one fjoLbliug up Ins stinihout and the other blushing like a peony. There is a small lake at Bangalore, where the soldiers found a watery grave at times, and the officers, too, had many escapes being upset in their cockle-shell boats, which they rigged up in man-of-war style to sail round this basin, the General leading the fleet — anything pour j?r(.s6>r le temps. Unless there was an adventure occasionally, it was considered a very slow amusement. In the racing department I was at home, and we had some very good sport in a small way, more enjoyable to us all than the great Darh)/. Then there was a big dinner in the public rooms, and a ball for the ladies in the evening. And so the time passed on till the end of August, when I got four months' leave to go and visit our kindred and friends in Calcutta. 'Tis a world of trouble and bother travelling in India, and such slow work, half one's time is wasted on the road. On the 24th of August I sent my servants and three horses in advance, passed an agreeable day, as usual, with Colonel and Mrs.W , and left next morning at four o'clock. My wife and little one in a palkee, myself on horseback, Missalgoe in front with a flaming torch, coohes and cowry coolies well laden with prog, and waiting-boy mounted on a pony ; his sole charge was the kettle, and to have it boiling on our arrival at the halting- ground, with eggs and milk on the table for breakfast.. Our first march was thirty-five miles; the sun frying my head, for the last hour left me Jiors do combat for the rest of the day. My bed was a mattress, carried by a coolie ; my companion at night was my own little darling, who would not sleep with any one but mo, although fond of her little black maid. I cannot say she was a very comfortable bedfellow, for she kicked like a young filly from dark till dawn. The mosquitoes, so very fond of English claret, had no mercy or compassion on our humanity, and the poor child suffered most frightfully. My wife slept, or tried to sleep, in her palankeen ; two crickets had stowed themselves away carefully, one at each end ; when one had finished his song, he was relieved by his relation. They sometimes had a duet, and kept up the concert till daylight. BRAHMIN WOMEN. 275 although wo were miles on oiir way before the dawn. We halted by a tope and a tank next day, liad breakfast under a grand shady guava-treo, and amused ourselves, my wife playing her guitar, and singing, to the wonder and astonishroent of the natives. I filled up my note-book, while little Mary and her hJadcamoor maid gathered wild flowers. A deputation of the palkee-Ztiyinher \xf. — Caj)tain McLeod and myself arose very early, and ascended the hill of Guzaron. It stands imme- diately behind the town of Yellore, or rather leans majestically over it ; the ascent is extremely steep and rugged, but the view from the top is extensive and beautiful. We enjoyed a delightfully cool breeze, which is never felt in the valley; it is only from the top of this hill you can see the full extent of the pettah, or native town, which contains thirty thousand inhabi- tants. You have a very fine view of the Fort also, which is com- pletely commanded by this and the next hill adjoining, called Cesarou. I was anxious to obtain a sight of the King of Kandy, who was confined in the Fort ; but he seldom turned out, even for exercise. There w^ere also in confinement a host of women, the wives and concubines of Tl/ipuo, altogether, attendants included, about four hrndred. They, as well as his sable Majesty, the King of Kandy, enjoyed everything they could wish for but liberty. I believe these women were all very old, except one, who was married very young. It is a common thing to see the natives marry mere children ; but then they are immediately separated until they are of a proper age to live together, which is often as early as thirteen years, and sometimes younger. But to return to the top of this hill. On the very summit was a fort, about a mile in circumference, somewhat decayed, but still pretty strong. There were several guns of large size lying about dismounted, and a few piles of shot and shell. Some iron cages lay on the grass, which once contained the bodies of the ringleaders in the mutiny at Vellore, in 1800. 'J'hcre was a large square well full of fine clear water. The powder-magazine is kept up here, and some stores. A guard of sepoys, consisting of a havildar and six privates, are always posted there, and relieved once a week. After resting a while, we returned home, where I was glad to plunge into a cold bath before breakfast. There was neither church nor parson at Yellore, which I thought very shameful, considering the number of Europeau 280 MAUVAIS TEMPS. officers and the large cantonment ; hut I was informed the foundation of a church was laid ahout five years before, and there was a probability of the building getting forward in the course of time. There were several monks, a Roman Citholic chapel, and a number of idolatrous places of worship, which latter are to bo seen in all corners of the country. We left Vellore at three o^clock on the morning of the 3rd, and passed through Arcot* about six. His Majesty^s 13th Dragoons were at their drill as I passed, and also a regiment of the light cavalry. Marched on as far as Cauvery Pauk, where we had breakfast and dinner, but the bungalow being ])crfectly alive with red ants, we were obliged to leave the house to themselves and bend our way towards the next stage, having first cleared the palankeen and baskets of some thousands of those nasty wretches, for the red ants are very disgusting*. Nine miles farther on we found the bungalow at Damul a perfect ruin ; but two miles farther on we found a very neat new one, that had just been finished, which made up for the former disappointment. The moon shone bright, and the evening was extremely hot, so warm that the perspiration poured off* us from head to foot, and all we could procure was some bad water and a little milk for little Mary. Soon after we lay down, the rain fell in torrents, accompanied by thunder and lightning, which did not much favour the poor Jiorses that were picketed in the field; but the air became 20° cooler immediately, wliich relieved us very much. My wife took very ill in the night, and called to me that she was sure she was taking cholera. I jumped ofi' my mattress to give her some brandy and laudanum, when she got a little better, and had a sleep, which restored her very much. We did not start next morning until five o'clock, and arrived at another new bungalow, same as last, beside the Rajah's Tank, — the roads from Vellore to Madras almost under water and knee-deep with mud, a disgrace to the country and the Govern- ment ; in fact, it was wading through a swamp the four last days of our journey. The morning was dreadfully hot ; as soon as I arrived, I was glad to throw myself down ^^ ,^ v^urner AFFLICTION. 281 of the room on my mattress, not able to move with violent lioadaclie. Dreadful squalls of rain, tlmnder, and liglitning, in tlio night ; no stables, horses picketed in a wood ; could not sleep with the heat, almost suffocating ; got up at half-past two, and sent off the coury, baskets, horses, &c. Mounted my little grey, and left the palkee to follow. No appearance of a road, except here and there I could discern the mark of cart-tracks up to the axle, and at one place passed upwards of seventy carts stuck in the mud ; the country quite inundated. How- ever, little Dustyfoot took me through it safe, and brought me to the best bungalow on the road (Stree Permatoor) ; indeed, it was an excellent house, with five very fine rooms and two verandas, good stabling, and other conveniences. Here I met with Major Harris, Gth N. I., on his way to Madras. I asked him the news, when 1 rras grieved to hear of the death of Colonel and Mrs. Chambers. They were travelling down from BcUary to Bangalore, to make a short stay with their daugliter, Mrs. Taylor, before proceeding to England, when Mrs. Chambers was attacked by cholera, at Baughpilly, which soon carried her off; the Colonel immediately dispatched a messenger with a note to his son-in-law. Captain Taylor, mentioning this trying and melancholy scene, and died himself on the evening of the same day, leaving their daughter. Miss C , an amiable and most affectionate young lady, to weep over their dead bodies and bewail the irrej^arable loss of a father and mother, without a sympathizing friend nearer than sixty miles, and in a vile country overwhelmed vvith disease and insufferably hot. What a trial of faith and Christian patience ! — a mild, delicate, sweet girl of seventeen, left in this deplor- able state of affliction. Both her parents had that day fallen victims to the dreadful disease that now fastened on herself, when the providential arrival of her brother-in-law preserved her from the same grave that closed over her beloved parents, who were brought on, and interred together at Bangalore, 'n.o rvioofiner of the two sisters can hardly be described; the most poignant and uitccr grief choked their salutation ; and 282 AFFLICTION. to picture or describe tlie anguish of those two lovely young sisters, when they fell into each other's arms, would be impos- sible. Colonel Chambers was a gallant soldier; the last occasion on which he had an opportunity of distinguishing himself was against the Burmese, when Le received the public thanks he justly merited. Mrs. Chambers was a very fine-looking person ; and altogether they were as charming a family as I have ever met. \ 283 CHAPTER XVIII. An Old Frieiul.— Affair with a Tiger. — At Sea. — DiaiKond Harbour. — Land Again.— Calcutta. — Our JNIenage.— Calcutta.— Fort William. — Barrackijore. — Seraniporc. — A Nautch. — An Apostate, — A Christian. — Prayer. — A Fakeer.— Kidderpore Orphan School. WE left Stree Pcrmatoor next morning at four o^clock, and arrived at Poouamalce about eighty after a very hot ride; the last two miles of the road was under water. We found a neat quarter and an excellent breakfast ready for us on our arrival; prepared by my friend Captain Bernard. The first thing that attracted my attention was the corpse of a soldier of the 45th (my old regiment). Ho had just drowned himself in one of the tanks, I understood intentionally. Poonamalee is the great depot for troops arriving at Madras ; they are immediately marched to tbat place after being disembarked. The recruits and young women incautiously eat all kinds of fruit, drink arrack, and expose themselves to the sun, which brings on rapid disease, and they die daily in consequence. Poonamalee lies thirteen miles west of Madras, on a flat, surrounded by mt'i'shy ground — hardly, I think, a healthy place for European ':roops. Went on to Madras, got a field-officer^s quarter in the Fort, furnished it for a week, collected our baggage sent in advance, and waited the arrival of our old good ship Winron Ilasilnrjs for a passage to Calcutta. The week passed, and no arrival. Princess Cliarluttc, Captain Bidcn, camo in, and ho asked us to take a, free passage with him, ''llie \V. II. being a slow coach." Mrs. G. B. met three of her cousins, passengers with him for Calcutta. Another friend turned up just going to sail for Calcutta, and would take no excuse, wo must go with him, his whole ship being at our service, and so we embarked, excusing ourselves to Captain B., timo being limited. One morning, during our week at jSEadras, I was sitting on a stone, looking at the mountain breakers and inhaling tho 284 AFFAIR WITH A TWER. frcsli sea-broeze, when I observed near to me a naval officer intent upon an old newspaper. I looked at liim as I was passing liome ; ho cauglit my eye, — a sudden recognition, and a clench of hands, a joyful and unexpected meeting ; it was my brother Tom, his ship, the Hlitd, in the offing, going on next day or two to Penang. I took him back to the Fort, to spin a yarn seven years long since wo had last met. He would have me to dine on board next day. I went, and looked foolish enough amongst the jolly party ; the ship rolling most horribly nearly rolled the life out of me, and rolled me away from the dinner-table. I was annijyed and vexed with myself; but I could not help it, poor fellow. He put me ashore, and we parted company for seven years more. Ibfli. — One of my horses died in the livery-stable. I sold off the others in case of " Misfortunes never come single.^' There was an officer of the 1st European regiment living next room to us in the Barracks; he and our little Mary got quite intimate, for he was extremely fond of children. I asked him to walk in one day and take tiffin with us. AVhile I waited his arrival, I took up an old magazine for August, 1819, and read the following providential escape from a tiger : — " Lieutenant A. Calder, of the Honourable Company's Rifle Corps, who was severely wounded by a cannon-shot in the battle with Holkar's forces in India, on the 21st December, 1817, had a short time previously a most providential escape from the fangs of a tiger. On the morning of the 29th Sep- tember, 1817, while shooting amongst the jungle with other officers, being separated from them by a rivulet, he came to a small opening in the wood, about the size of a door, in which, to his inexpressible horror, he perceived a royal tiger basking in the sun. He was immediately retiring, when the animal sprung upon him with a tremendous roar ; but not before he had fired his rifle, and wounded him in the head, the distance, about four yards, affording only half a leap to the enraged brute. Mr. C. was knocked down, and remained some time insensible. On recovering, ho found the tiger standing over him, his left shoulder being in the animal's mouth, the hairs of whose face were actually touching his cheek. At this instant Mr. AT SEA. 285 C/s eye canglifc the tiger's, wlicn, to his astonishment, it let go its hold, and ran off! Still grasping his fowling-piece, he entered the jungle about sixty yards, and was found by one of his servants, who with the officei's carried him two miles to the camp. His wounds being dressed, he recovered perfectly in two months. The indelible vouchers of this mira- culous escape are deep marks of two tusks and four teeth on his left shoulder, the complete print of a paw on his right hip, and slighter wounds on his arm, breast, &c. His life was some time in danger; but his having bled profusely, even to fainting, assisted in the cure.'' AVTien my friend came to tiffin, I mentioned the above cir- cumstance, and I found ho was the identical person who had such a miraculous escape. Captain Calder then told me the story, and, with the exception of the print of the animal's paw on his hip, it Avas all true enough. I found him afterwards a very pleasant gentleman-like man. We left Madras about the same time ; he went to Masulipatam, and I took my departure for Calcutta on the 21st September, that is to say, I embarked on board the brig Macaulay. We had a fine leading wind for the first forty-eight hours, when it fell off to a calm ; the sea ran high, and the ship rolled so very much, I thought her masts would have gone overboard. The wind sprang up again fresh about nightfall, and continued fair until four o'clock the next day, when it died away, but freshened again at night. Sunday morning, the last day of Sep ■ tember, very hazy all round, every appearance of a gale ; it soon came on to blow fresh, with heavy rain, thunder, and light- ning. A sea struck the vessel aft, came into our cabin, washed awa}'- my bed, and set us afloat. Another soon followed, when we got the carpenter to work, and had our windows closed up. Nothing in life so comfortless in my opinion as squally wet weather at sea, where you cannot get a dry spot to sit down ; raining above, and the sea washing into every little chink below ; all hands (I mean passengers) at work who are able to stand, securing their traps from the wet, hanging up bandboxes, bundles, parcels, boots, shoes, and clothes to the beams of their cabin, securing their trunks one above another to keep 286 DIAMOND HARBOUR. them dry ; and, after all, findinj^ it impossible to keep them free of the destructive clement. The weather cleared up at twelve o'clock, and the day became very fine, with a stifi' breeze, which unfortunately fell off about three o'clock. We dined on deck ; all well. Aiken speared a dolphin, and brought him on deck ; I had often heard much concerning that fish when dying, and now witnessed the truth of what I thought might have been somewhat exaggerated. I never saw anything more beautiful than the various changes of colour which it displayed during the time it was dying. The long fin, which reaches from the back of the head down to the tail, changed its colour fre- quently, from a dark brown to t\\G most beautiful light blue, spotted with red, white, leaden, black, pink, and other colours ; as soon as life was extinct, it returned to its original water colour, and we eat him for dinner. All hands well, a calm all night, ship sat like a duck on a pond until morning, without giving a single roll. October 1st. — Wind sprung up lightly from the north, hauled up close ; but it soon died away, and we were again left in a calm. " Hope deferred maketh the heart sick," and so it was with us, for we had not so much wind as to stem the current, and we were daily making a retrograde voyage, until the morning of the Gth, when the wind came round to the S.W., with a fine breeze, and we walked away on our voyage most delightfully, with cheerful hearts and smiling faces ; fell in with the pilot on the evening of the 8th, and made the land next morning. Anchored at Kedgeree ; went on shore in the after- noon, but saw nothing worth notice. The village was small, and the bazaar could boast of little save eggs, fowls, and fruit. The natives work mats very prettily, and had a largo supply for sale. Next morning, the 10th, we ran up with the tide as far as Diamond Harbour, and anchored. I went on shore after dinner, and took a walk along the banks of the river ; but there was nothing worthy of notice. The country is quite level on both sides of the river, and I should think in the rainy season it would be a perfect swamp. Diamond Harbour is only a mere nook, or curve in the river; the Indiamen generally lie here; the Minerva was the only one then at LAND AGAIN. 287 anchor. Went on board again at half-past seven in a dingy, or Hooghly fishing-boat; they are very muc\ superior to the Madras Mussula boats, but not built for crossing a surf. The dingy is rowed by ten black fellows, who sit upon a deck made of any kind of rough boards, and always carry their nets below. They make no noise when rowing, like the Madras men, who never cease singing or skirling the whole time they are at sea. We were serenaded by jackals all night, being close to the bank of the river : those prowling beasts cry like so many human beings in great distress. lltli. — Anchored about four p.m., the tide having failed us. I went on shore, and had a long walk. Shot some birds. Saw an alligator about twenty feet long. The country was very fer- tile, and the vilhige extremely ^jopulous. The river began to get narrower, but the scenery was not remarkable; villages all along the banks, pressing through the cocoa - trees and jungle. The river winds very much, and is muddy from the Sand Heads all the way to Calcutta. We began to get extremely tired of our voyage, although Aiken was very attentive and hospitable ; but as we expected to make a passage of five or six days, and had then been twenty-two on board, it was really sicken- ing ; and the weather was so hot we could hardly breathe. While ruminating on this tedious business, our brother John came alony-side in a beautiful boat, and we were not lonof before we had our baggage removed from the ship,* and started off with him. He had left Calcutta in the morning, thinking to meet us about Garden Eeach, three miles down the river, but he had dropped down with the tide twenty-five miles before we met, and as the tide turned against us at six p.m., we had to pull up against it for eight hours, and arrived at his house a little after one o^clock in the morning — a splendid mansion. * Brig Macanlay. She was purchased afterwards by Aiken for S.R 22,000, and lost on the Tenassarini coast, having struck against a sunken rock, while conveying troops, stores, and passengers to Moulniein. All hands saved. Poor Captain Aiken was lost afterwards — ship, passengers and all, wife and child, on his passage to the Mauritius. Alas ! poor fellow, how kind and hospitable and generous ; would not aceept a shilling from me for twenty-six days' jiassage to Bengal— a good table included. 288 CALCUTTA. and elegantly furnished, in Chowringliec — indeed, all the houses in that part are palaces. Calcutta has been so well described, and painted in such various lights and splendid colours, that I am somewhat at a loss to say anything about it, further than just to bring to my own remembrance what I saw and what I thought of the " City of Palaces,^' commonly so called in Bengal. My first arrival in the great metropolis of Eastern India being in the middle of the night, I saw very little, being more in danger of tumbling off the box of the coach which conveyed us from the banks of the river, than straining my eyes in search of some of the palaces I so often heard of. However, I was much pleased with the view from my window next morning, our house being on the Chowringhee Road. A large extent of many hundred acres of level ground, tjreeii and beautiful, inter- sected with fine broad roads ; Fort William, the Government House, the shipping in the river, a range of splendid houses, and a great variety of equipages, horses, buggies, palkees, natives and Europeans, Jews, Greeks, Turks, Armenians, Par- sees, race-horses in training, ladies on horseback, red-coats and coats of all colours, greyhounds, bulldogs, hounds, terriers, and other curs of low degree, presented themselves to my view. I liked the novelty of the sight, and I was favourably impressed with iho first view of Calcutta, which is said to be half the battle, if you go there to reside, or even to enjoy yourself for a few months as I did. We were summoned to breakfast at half-past eight. Morning service having been first performed by our host, we sat down, and, after being on board twenty-six days, I confess I did ample justice to the hrcad-and-huttcr in particular. The manners, customs, and appearance of things struck me as widely differing from Madras. There were no less than seven or eight black rascals attending at breakfast, with their white turbans, long mus- tachios, bare feet, and white muslin robes, not one of whom would stir to touch my plate. Every fellow attended merely to his own business, or what work was cut out for himself. I thought it necessary to get one of these animals into my ser- vice, and 1 had patience enough to keep him a week, during OUR MENA«E. 289 whicli time ho acquitted liimself in the following manner : — He was very punctually behind my chair at breakfast, handed his mistress her tea, and changed her plate ; after which he left the house, and did not return until half-past six in the evening, to dinner ; he changed a plate three or four times, and waited until the cloth was removed, when he removed himself along with it. The lazy villain would not do another thing, and, not being accustomed to keep such geutlemen, I requested he would never come into my presence again. I was very much inclined to help him down stairs. This fellow is called a kitma(/ar, and his wages are eighty-four rupees, or about eight guineas a year. The conaumar goes to the bazaar to provide for the table ; he sees the dinner, tiffin, &c., placed on the table, and attends until the cloth is removed, when he goes home (hard work) ; wages, from ten to fifteen rupees a month. The ahdar cools the wine, beer, and water ; seven rupees a month. Scdar-hearer takes charge of his master's clothes, and pulls the liuinkox somoA lines ; eight rupees a month. Ilooliali-hedd)' prepares the chillum, and keeps the hookah in order; seven rupees per month. The Z>t'are7'6' dust the furni- ture and pull the punkar, at five rupees each per month ; these are the only fellows that will keep in the house, and lazy, indo- lent snails they are. The choliedar is a sort of watchman, that sleeps half the night, for which he gets five rupees per month. The molh/, or gardener, gets five rupees ditto, for clawing up the ground with his fingers ; no doubt they have four or five tools which have not been improved for the last 1 ,800 years, and those kind of poor animals do all their work squatting down ; a Scotch gardener will do more work in one day than six of these mollys in a week. The syce is the groom, or horsekecper, at five rupees a month ; if you keep twenty horses 3'ou must keep forty people to attend them. The durivan, six rupees per month ; he opens the gate and shuts it at night — mighty hard work ! yet the lazy thief will not do another single thing. The hohhachc, or cook, the most useful rascal in the lot, gets fifteen rupees a month ; missoh/a, or cook's assistant, gets five rupees ditto. The frash, or lamp- lighter, has nothing to do but clean the glasses and light the 290 CALCUTTA. lamps, at five rupees ditto. Coachman does nothing but drive the horses ; he would not clean a horse, nor dust the harness ; his pay is twelve rupees ditto. The peo?i carries letters, chits, &c., at six rupees ditto. The dohij washes your clothes, and batters them to pieces on a stone for fifteen rupees a month. And hero ends a list of a few of the useless rascals, and the amount of their wages in the house of our worthy host, not including the ayahs, or waiting- women, and their attendants, at fifteen rupees ditto. I often thought the servants of the Madras Presidency bad enough, but those dogs at Calcutta are a thousand times worse ; they are the curse of the country. I only took one Madras man with mo, and he was worth seven of the Bengal servants. I had hardly been a week in Calcutta when my syce took the liberty of thrashing my sirdar for looking after my horses. I soon got hold of the follow, whipped off his turban, rolled it round his neck, and held him fast until I made my fellow leather him with the broomstick till they were both tired. My Madras man was never molested again. Calcutta lies very low, on the left bank of the Hooghly, about a hundred miles up the river, and may well be called the City of Palaces — but I would add also, of hovels, of luxury, poverty, fogs, frogs, and jackals. There is a fine- race-course which stands on the Green, opposite Chowringhee Road on the east. Government House, a splendid building, stands about half a mile to the north of it. Fort William, to the west ; and Kidderpore to the south. There are a number of tanks on the Esplanade, large and deep, out of which is taken the water for drinking ; but it is first filtered. The water for watering the roads is also taken from those tanks. The natives prefer drinking the water of the Hooghly, being a branch of the sacred Ganges. Eiding out of a morning along the river, I have seen thousands of the natives, men, women, and children, washing in the river ; and as soon as they had finished they filled their water-pots and carried them home, although the fluid was anything but clear or clean. I did not consider Calcutta nearly so healthy as Madras, lying so low, so far from the sea ; not a rising ground nearer than 200 miles. FORT WILLIAM. 291 Smothered in a thick fog ahnost every night and morning, the heat during the day intense, the country round about junghi and marshy ; while there was something intolerably oppressive in the heat out of doors that I never found in the Madras country, although the nights were cool enough during my stay, it being the cold weather. The great profusion of meat that is daily cooked in Calcutta, one-half of which is thrown out in consecjuenco of the natives not eating it, draws jackals innumerable into the town as soon as it gets dark in the evening. They prowl about all night, occasionally setting up the most horrible yelling, disturbing the nocturnal slumbers of many a fair dame. They frequently come into the verandas, and into the houses when they can. They are good sca- vengers, as well as the " adjutant," a bird of great size, with immense long legs, and a huge beak ; it has a large bag under the throat, which hangs down about a foot in length, and is capable of holding a leg of mutton : it will swallow a rat, a marrow-bone, or a small fowl, with ease. They are in- numerable, and there is a fine of fifty rupees for killing one of them, which I thought very right, as they keep the city free from filth; they rest at night on the tops of the houses. I heard of a man being killed by one of them : — as he carried a basket of meat on his head, one of those huge birds made a dash at it, and sank his beak into the man's head so deep as to fracture the skull. They are something like the heron in England. Fort William is built close to the Hooghly, and commands that part of the river. It is a beautiful fort ; but so large that it would take an army to protect it against an enemy. It is . not nearly so strong as Fort St. George at Madras ; the ram- parts and all parts not built upon are laid out in grass, and kept in fine order. It is about a quarter of a mile from the Government House, and commands the finest view about Cal- cutta, and that is saying very little ; but as the houses have all flat roofs, the most extensive views are from the top of them, where people walk and sit of an evening to enjoy a breeze if they can catch one. . u 2 292 BARRACKPORE. On Saturday, the 21tli, I started with Mr. D. Ronny to pay a short visit to Barrackpore. We had a beefsteak at his office in Calcutta at four o'clock, and commenced our drive at half- past in his carriage for about three miles, until t!ie sun was well down, when wo found a buggy and horse awaiting us on the road ; the carriage returned, and we proceeded along a very beautiful road, as straight as an arrow, with fine lofty trees on each side, more resembling an avenue or an approach to some of old England's stately mansions. On one side was much jungle, with cottages peeping out here and there, with an occa- sional tank, a padd^'-field, or a garden on our right. The country was open, and thickly cultivated with rice, which the natives were employed in cutting down ; half-way on the right side of the road is a small barrack to accommodate troops marching down to Fort \Villiam from Barrackpore, as the native troops are generally relieved there once a month. There are also fine stables and coachhouses, where the Governor- Gen era! changes horses on his way up and down. A little beyond this, at Cook's Stables, we had another fine horse in waiting, which took us along in good style to the end of our journey. Although the road is good and level, and the distance only sixteen miles, it is necessary to have at least one horse in waiting half-way. We found Dr. Renny, C'Jth N.I., expecting us, and I did justice to his mutton, as well as his wine and malt ; went to bed at ten o'clock, and slept like a fish. I got up at daylight, and found a beautiful Arab horse at the door in waitinof for me. I was soon on his back, scampering through the park — and a most extensive and beautiful park it is : I never saw a finer in England. It was kept in good order, beautiful roads for driving intersecting it, serpentine rivers and trees of all* sorts and sizes interspersing the grounds. I observed the tamarind-tree flourishing amongst the rest, loaded with fruit ; it grows large, and the leaf and branch are very like the sensitive plant; some of the trees are of immense size, and very majestic. The scenery here is extremely fine. I rodo about until the sun began to say " I'm too hot for you ; " but under the shade of a banyan-tree, on the banks of the SERAMPORE. 293 Hooglily, I stopped a little to take a look at Scrampore, on the opposite side ; it looks very pretty, and has more the ap- pearance of an English town on the Thames than any place of the kind I had seen before, in consequence of the spire of the Danish church risino; from amono;st the houses. I was in- formed this place was the Iluli/rood of Calcutta, where men escaped to and laughed at their creditors. The Missionary School is a fine building, and stands just on the opposite bank, facing Government House. The river winds here, and the great number of pretty houses, gardens, pagodas, budgerows, dingies, &c., gave a lustre to the scene which I little expected, and then the steam-packet happening to be coming down from Calcutta, and passing at the time I stood on the river-side, almost made me fancy I was looking at the Clyde ; but then, here comes a carcass, aiid there is another, and you see a third in the middle of the stream, each bearing along the ravenous kite and cari'ion-crow, as they feast on the last remains of some poor blinded and once superstitious Hindoo, whose body, yet alive and breath remaining, was most likely carried from his sickly cot, and left close to the water's edge, until the next tide of the sacred river carried him away — and this is their custom. Alas ! how diligent those men should be who are sent forth to preach the Gospel to the heathen. I believe nnich is doing in the schools amongst the junior branches ; but idolatry, the most gross, absurd, and obscene, is in every place to be witnessed, more particularly amongst their innumerable pagodas on the banks of the river ; but the hand of the Lord Omnipotent is stretched forth, and in His good appointed time I humbly hope the Gospel of Christ will cover this heathen land as the waters cover the sea. I rode home, much gratified with my morning's ramble, and, after breakfast, went to church. Divine service was performed in one of the large rooms in Government House. There was only a congregation of forty people when the clock struck ten. The Governor-General, with Lady Amherst and their daughter, accompanied by their staff, walked in from an adjoining room, and the scvice commenced ; his Lordship was dressed in a ])lain blue ccat, striped waistcoat, and black silk trousers. 294 A NAUTCH. I paid a visit to Captain and Mrs. Pearson, neither of whom I had ever seen before ; but, for auki lang syne, I was deter- mined to see a lady whose family I knew. Mr. D. Renny and myself drove down to the river about one o'clock, where we found a gentleman's boat sent for us. We crossed over to the other side, and walked down the bank to Mr. Walker's, who has a silk and cotton manufactory. Wo found tiffin ready, and sat down as hungry as a glp.d. The wine and beer cool and good, and I did my host's good things all the justice he could wish. His house was beautifully situated on the bank of the river, commanded a pleasing prospect, and was at that distance from Calcutta where he could run down with the tide in his boat in an hour or two. We crossed again to our own side about half-past four, found a fresh horse and bnggy waiting for us, went to the park, and drove about there until dark. The only rising ground I saw during my stay in Bengal was in this park, and here and there there was a little hill and dale, which relieved my eye. We returned in time for dinner. We left Barrackpore next morning soon after daylight ; the morning was very cold, yet Lord and Lady Amherst were in the park before us, taking their morning ride. Having three sets of horses, I arrived in Calcutta in one hour and a half, much pleased with my trip ; but would have liked it much better could I have paid it a visit more at my leisure, and on a week- day. I long wished to see a fine nautch in Bengal, and an oppor- tunity offered which I had little reason to expect, as the great annual holidays, or Doorga Poojah, were over before my arrival in Calcutta. However, a rich native, Roophaul Mullick, issued cards to all the gentry in the town, requesting the favour of their company to a nautch at his house in Chitpore Road, on the 3rd, 4th, and 5th of November. Mrs. B. and myself dined with Mr. and Mrs, Gisborne, and wo all went together, merely out of curiosity, for once in a way to witness this festival. The street leading down to the house was narrow, and so crowded with carriages, buggies, palankeens, horses, &c., that we found it an intricate navigation ; liowever, we at length arrived before AN APOSTATE. 295 Mr. Roophaul Mullick's mansion, which was of great size and extent, and the whole part, outside railing, &c., in a blaze of light from innumerable lamps, being close together. As we entered the front door, I found the inside was also brilliantly illuminated with fine chandeliers. The centre of the apartment was covered with a rich carpet, where the nautch-girls danced and sung, and the company- walked in a gallery which ran all round it, elevated only about six feet ; the apartments above were filled with visi- tors ; off the galleries the rooms were spacious, and many of them were laid out with splendid suppers and the most expensive wines. Refreshments were handed about all the evening, and the host seemed pleased with those who ate and drank most. He was a good-looking, stout, black fellow, with a string of immense large pearls and emeralds round his neck ; the former were better seen and to more advantage round his sable throat perhaps than on a whiter skin. The most ridiculous and absurd thing is to see the nautch-women dance and sing : those that exhibited on this evening were a set of miserable-looking wretches. They bawl and they squall and they move about so slowly, turning and twisting their hands, arms, and eyes, with the tom-tom and the small brazen jals or gongs clattering at their ears, that it is impossible to hear a word those disgusting creatures articu- late ; their ankles are thickly covered with silver bells, which add to the music of their inharmonious voices. They were richly dressed in their own costume, and wore many valuable jewels. I observed a character in the room dressed in a general ofti(?er's uniform, who I was informed was an apostate to the religion of the Hindoos ; and it was doubtless too true, for I ascertiiined afterwards the melancholy and impious truth of this man's falling away, and of his having built many pagodas, or small temples of worship, and there bowed his knee to ]^aal. From his long residence in India, and from his general appear- ance, I thought his days on earth were nearly numbered, and I could have wished his hoary head had been engaged in the true cause. General Stew — t served in the Company's service for more than two-thirds of his life, and when I saw him I under- 29(3 A CHRISTIAN. stood ho kept a kind of harem, would not eat the flesh of an ox, and washed in the Hooghly hke the natives. We left the nautch after looking about and gratifying our curiosity for about two hours, not being at all inclined to par- take of supper amongst such a motley group, for there was a crowd of all sorts of people, high and low, rich and poor. Although printed cards of invitation were sent to the gentry, no person was prevented going into the nautch who was at all decently dressed ; indeed, it is no uncommon thing for a rich native to issue cards of invitation to a very large number of people for an entertainment, and put them in mind of it afterwards by an advertisement, saying '^ he hoped all those ladies and gentlemen who wero invited to his nautch, would bo so good as to come, as well as those who were not invited." I observed in one of the apartments an idol, lighted up very brilliantly, and General S 1 coming out at the time ; whether he had been paying this stick or stone a visit of ceremony on the occasion I did not see. I returned home about eleven o^clock, both gratified and disgusted. The entertain- ment lasted three nights (of which Sunday was one), and may have cost Mr. Roophaul Mullick about seventy or eighty thou- sand rupees. A young gentleman came down the country in bad health to our house while I was at Calcutta, where he remained until he quite recovered. I was very much pleased with his acquaint- ance, and he has my hearty good wishes for all true happiness to attend him in his career through life. Although young in years, he had not been led out of the true path, nor was he likely to have his heart and affections weaned from his God, with all the examples of impiety, coldness, and careless dis- regard to the duties of holy religion. He was serious, devout, and attentive to all that concerned his eternal welfare ; would that I could say so much for myself. While conversing with him one day in my room, he read to me the following extract from his sister's Journal (a beautiful young woman, who died in India, in her twentieth year), and allowed mo to take a copy of it. It ran as follows : — " Alas ! how transient are these endeavours. Has a sense PRAYER. 297 of my sin been ever before me ? or have not my good feelings rather, and sincere expressions of repentance, faded from my memory ? The first accident or incident that occurs puts out the flame of devotion and zeal for the service of God. O, Lord, support me I beseech Thee ! I see and feel my own weak- ness, and that of myself I cannot do anything that is right ! Be Thou pleased, therefore, to grant me Thy grace and assist- ance to keep me steadij and coitstaiit. Thou hast promised to give Thy Holy Spirit to those that ask it. I am, therefore, emboldened to implore its divine assistance to help my in- firmities, and so to fortify my mind that I may not be seduced from my duty to Thee by the deceitful enticements of the world, the flesh, and the devil. Let me, Lord, in all times and in all places think of Thee, remember that Thou art pre- sent with me, though invisible, and privy to my most secret thoughts, that I may be afraid to offend Thee and never dare to do but what Thou approvest, or of which I may not fear to give an account at the last great and terrible day. 0, fit and prepare me for that solemn time by a virtuous and holy life ! In whatever I do let me remember Thee ; be Thou ever in my thoughts, then I shall not forget Thee when I leave my closet, nor have so often to upbraid myself with coldness and indifference in Thy service. I have now attained my seven- teenth year. O, Lord, how good and merciful in Thee to liavo preserved me, an offending worm, so long ; to have so long borne with my repeated acts of disobedience and ingratitude — how merciful! when I might have been cut off* in the midst of my sins. But Thou hast been patient and long-suffering. In how many things have I liwirliKjhi acted contrary to Thy holy will, and have neither loved I'hce, feared Thee, nor obeyed Thee, as I ought to have done. If Thou shouldst deal with me according as I have deserved, I could expect nothing but the severities of Thy displeasure. But Thou art a gra- cious God and Father, pitying Thy children, knowing that wo are but dust. Pardon all my wickedness I beseech I'liee, mer- ciful Father, for the sake of llim in whose name 1 dare only ask it — for Him who died for my sins and shed His precious blood that I might bo accepted. For His sake receive me 298 A FAKEER. graciously and forgive me freely; and, Lord, give me, I pray, Thy assistance, that for the future I prove a more faithful servant to my great Master, and that every year that He shall be pleased to continue me on the earth I may be found in the way of my duty, and may every year be found nearer that happiness which Thou hast promised to those that serve Thee. Gracious God ! grant this for the sake of Thy Son and my blessed Re- deemer, for whom my soul does bless and praise Thee. Amen." The above was written by this pious young woman on her birthday, in her seventeenth year. I was walking one day through the China Bazaar, when I was struck with the appearance of one of those religious Fakeers who are so often seen in India. He was a very black fellow ; his hair, from its appearance, had never been cut from his head ; it had been twisted and plaited like ropes, and bound round his head, forming an impenetrable jungle against the strongest horse-comb ; his head was jet-black, his countenance grave and gloomy, without any expression, and his left arm was raised perpendicular above his head, and from the length of time it had been kept in this position hardly anything but the bone and sinews were remaining; the nails of his fingers and thumb had grown so long that they twisted round his wrist, so it was impossible that he could have made any use of that arm ; but it seemed to me to have been so long kept in that erect position that he could not change or move it about ; and this poor wretch most likely had made a vow to remain so through life to gain a place in heaven. Archdeacon Corrio told me he went amongst the mountains, while up the country, to see one of this kind of animals who had been in a cave all his life, and so wild-looking he was — more like a ^^wild man of the woods" — that when asked why he remained there, he said " because a person lived there before him whom ho had fed until death separated them, and then he took his place." This was all the reason he could give for living in this solitary, wild den. But the people near at hand never allow these kind of folks to be in want. Some of these poor blinded pagans, who are wont to inflict upon themselves cruel and unnecessary tortures, often make a vow to sit in one position for years. KIDDERPORE ORPHAN SCHOOL. 209 Some He upon blunt spikes, some measure their length along the road for hundreds of miles, and others stand upon one leg, and so on. I frequently paid a visit to my friend, Mr. Ilovenden, the chaplain and secretary to the Lower Orphan School at Kid- derpore, where he was very comfortably situated, having a free license and a salary of 1,800 rupees a month. Mrs. H. takes charge of the school, for which she can draw 300 rupees if she chooses. This is a very fine institution and sup- ports many an orphan who otherwise must be left destitute and alone to the mercy of the world. I went over the school, in which there were then 1 04 girls, all very comfortably situated and receiving a liberal education. Most of these are half-castes. The house in which they all reside is very large, lofty, and spacious, and situated in a fine airy park. All the girls in this school are the children of qfjicvrs ; none others are admitted, and here they are gratuitously clothed, maintained, and educated, as long as they choose to remain, and if mar- ried, they get from 2,000 to 4,000 rupees to rig out for the occasion. The institution is kept up by the t'ubscriptions of all ofiicers in the Company's service in Bengal. There is also a boy's school in the same park, where they are brought up until they are provided for, receiving a liberal education. 300 CHAPTEE XIX. Mortality in India. — Mirzapore. — The Races. — Stewart's Museum. — Hindoo Deities. — Ceremonies. — Beast-worship. — Summary Punishment. — A Monster Banyan. — Converts. — Leave Calcutta. — A Night on the River. — En Voyage. — Masulipatam. — On Shore. — Football. — Madras, 9th Dccemher. — I fell in with my old friend Captain Mason, of the Warroi Hastings, and was the first to drive him out on the course in my buggy. He had a long and tedious passage of nearly six months, being left in a calm for nearly seven weeks in the Mozambique Channel. One of his passengers, a lovely young woman, the wife of Mr. Gough, a civilian, died on board in her twenty-second year, and her body was com- mitted to the deep. What a heart-rending scene to a husband ! not one year of their wedded life together, when the awful summons overtakes her on the deep, and she submits to the call of death. Her mortal part is given to the waters, but her spirit flics to heaven. O heavenly hope, O glorious immortality ! Christ is risen — the first fruits of them that slept ; and through Him and by iTim, the sea will deliver up its dead as well as the earth, when body and soul will again be united to praise Him eternally. In the burying-ground, which was close to my quarters at Calcutta, I have taken my morning walks, and observed the greater proportion of tenants there were young women from the age of sixteen to twenty- four, married and unmarried; and, from my own calculation, the average of deaths, male and female, according to years, was under thirty. How certain is death, more particularly fc,o in India, where the call is so sudden to the grave; sometimes in the enjoyment of perfect health with the rising suji, which on the same day sets upon your grave. There is something so awful and heartrending in such an immediate change, that it should ever bring to our remembrance the blessed words of our Saviour : " Watch, therefore, for yc MIRZAPORE. 301 know neither the day nor the hour," &c. I never saw a grave- yard so thickly crowded with monuments, nor tombs so closely united, yet the ground is spacious and surrounded by a high wall ; it is intersected with gravel walks, and I think a profit- able place for any person seriously inclined to take an occa- sional stroll. A row of cassarina-trees surround the wall outside ; there is a porter's lodge at the gate, and, I believe, the inmate has seldom time to leave his quarters, from the many mournful visits paid to this " God's Acre." \Aili Dccemher. — I went to Mirzapore, to the examination of the native f em ale children, being the anniversary of that institu- tion, under the patronage of the ladies of Calcutta. About 120 girls were present, divided into three classes. They com- menced by singing a Bengalee hymn, after which they repeated the Lord's Prayer. The third, or youngest chiss, read and repeated Watts' short catechism, and Pearson's Dialogue between a Mother and her Dauofhter. Second class read Bible history and St. Matthew's Gospel ; and first class read the Gospel of St. Matthew, Merton's Dialogues on the Crea- tion, and Peai'ce's Geography, being all in the Bengalee lan- guage. I did not understand them, but Mr. Wilson, the Missionary, who examined the girls, occasionally interpreted for the audience. He put many questions to them from St. Matthew's Gospel, which they answered most satisfactorily, and in that simple, unrestrained, clear manner which showed the heavenly effect of the Gospel had begun to take root in their hearts. (God grant it may bring forth much fruit.) The questions were put by Archdeacon Corrie, through Mr. Wilson, from the New Testament, and the latter gentleman explained their answer, being a thorough linguist, which gave the assembly pleasure to find their labour was not in vain. A few of the girls read remarkably well in English. The assembly to visit this interesting examination was principally ladies, but not a very great many of them ; perhaps from the distance out of town. Lady Amherst, and Lady Sarah, her daughter, and Lady Pyan were present, as well as many others iviereded in the school; but the majority were of the second class. I went to the theatre in the evening, to see the " Poor 302 THE RACES. Gentleman " performed, and saw no lack of ladies there. I have no wish, notwithstanding, to be uncharitable, as the ladies are deserving of every praise for keeping up and supporting so good a school for their own sex, and I wish them every pros- perity. — After the girls had retired, there was a door opened in an adjoining apartment, and a long table displayed, covered with various little English articles for sale. Several of the ladies took charge of the table, and the sale commenced, the profits being for the benefit of the school. The articles were priced high, but made a ready sale, particularly as some pleasant married wives and pretty spinsters took charge. A poor blind girl, about fifteen years of age, excited con- siderable interest. She has, from listening to the other children, got by heart many passages of the Gospel, and can almost repeat all the second chapter of St. Luke. She is led to the school by her sister, and teaches many of the smaller children to get hymns off by heart. nUiBeccmhcr. — The Calcutta races commenced. The morn- ing was very fine, and free from fog or mist. The assembly of gentry was unusually great. The Stand was filled with gay, smiling, and pretty faces ; although many of the young ladies had lost evory tinge of colour, they seemed cheerful and healthy. The horses were of the highest Arab caste, and superb animals, and were so well matched as to make the heats very interesting. The second morning was very unfavourable. When I mounted my horse, the atmosphere was so thick with fog 1 could scarcely see ten yards before me, and it continued so until half-past seven o'clock, when the sport commenced. The second run five horses started, gentlemen riders, and they all went off at speed. Four of them were coming in neck and neck, when a native boy rode across the course right ahead. It was impossible for the gentlemen either to pull up or avoid him. He was conse- quently ridden down, and two of the horses at the top of their speed tumbled over him ; but most providentially the gentle- men, as well as their horses, escaped with little injury. Colonel Gilbert had a frightful spin ; I thought he was killed, but I met him at a ball the same evening ! I happened to be close Stewart's museum. 303 by at the time. I rodo up, and had the native lad removed ofF the course under the shade of a tree. The vital spark had not fled, but ho was all hut dead when he was carried off the ground to the hospital. From his appearance and dress I fancy ho was a lad of some rank, and about fourteen years old. Third Day. — Adverse fog until eight o'clock, when it began to clear up. I only saw the horses start and como in. Sun got so powerful I was obliged to ride homo before the con- clusion. 20t/i. — I dined with the Governor-General — a large party and a half-cold dinner, with a grand state of formality ; not in my way at all. Government House is certainly a most splen- did building, and does great honour to the illustrious nobleman who built it. 20^/*'. — The last night was cold, with much rain, and the thermometer stood at 63° in our veranda at breakfast-time. Got up early, and rode to the Course. It was in fine order after the rain. The races were good, horses well matched, and no accidents. 27tli. — Lady Amherst at home. Went to a ball at Govern- ment House. The party began to arrive at half-past nine o'clock, and by eleven the dancing-room was crowded with many of the beauty and fashion of Calcutta. I stopped until twelve o'clock, and not seeing any sign of supper or refresh- ments, I took myself home. I went to see General Stewart's Museum, commonly called " Hindoo Stewart." He certainly had the greatest assortment of heathen deities I ever saw before — all of those worshipped by the natives. The Hindoo deities amount to 330,000,000, yet all these gods and goddesses may be resolved into three principal ones — Vishnoo, Sliivii, and Brumlia. I don't say that the General has collected so many, but he has the largest collection I over saw. Yishnoo, the first god, is represented in the form of a black man with four arms, in one of which he holds a club, in another a shell, in the third a chiikru (an iron instrument of destruction like a wheel), and in the fourth a water-lily. He rides on Gurooru, an animal half bird and half 30 i HINDOO DEITIES. man, and wears yellow garments. The Hindoo Shastrus gives an acconnt of ton appearances or incarnations of Vishnoo, in the character of the preserver, nine of which are said to bo past. Brumhu, the one God, when he resolves to re-create the uni- verse after a periodical destruction, just gives birth to Brumlia (the idol of that name), Vishnoo, and Shivu, to preside over the work of creation, preservation, and destruction. After a periodical dissolution of the universe, the Four Vedas remained in the waters. In order to enter upon the work of creation, it was necessary to obtain these books for the instruc- tion of Bruraha. Vishnoo was therefore appointed to bring up the Vedas from the deep j who, taking the form of a fish, descended into the waters, and brought up these sacred books. Vishnoo assumed the form of a tortoise, and took the newly- created earth upon his back, to render it stable j and the Hin- doos believe to this very hour that the earth is sujoported on the back of this tortoise. Stone images of Vishnoo are made for sale and worshipped by those who have chosen him for their guardian deity. The offerings presented to him consist of fruits, flowers, water, clarified butter, sweetmeats, cloth, ornaments, &c. The dis- tinctive mark of this sect of Hindoos, who worship Vishnoo, consists of two lines, rather oval, drawn the whole length of the nose, and carried forward in two straight lines across the forehead ; it is generally made with the clay of the Ganges and sometimes with powder of sandal-wood. The following is a description of the heaven of Vishnoo. This heaven, called Voikoont^hu, is entirely of gold, and is 80,000 miles in circumference. All its edifices are composed of jewels. The pillars and all the ornaments of the buildings are of precious stones. The crystal waters of the Ganges fall from the higher heavens on the head of Drover, and from thence into the bunches of hair on the heads of seven Rishees in this heaven, and from thence they fall and form a river in Voikoont'hu. Here are also five pools of water, containing blue, red, and white water-lilies, the flowers of some of which contain a hundred petals, and others a thousand ; gardens of HINDOO CEREMONIES. 305 nymphs, &c. On a seat as glorious as the sun, sitting on water-lilies, is Vishnoo, and on his right hand is the goddess Lrikshmee. From her body the fragrance of the lotus extends eight hundred miles. This goddess shines like a continued blaze of lightning, &c. Shivu, the destroyer, has the second place among the Hindoo deities; he is represented in various ways, sometimes as a silver-coloured man with five faces ; an additional eye and a half-moon grace each forehead ; he has four arms. Another image of Shivu is represented with one head, three eyes, and two arms, riding on a bull, covered with ashes, and naked. Another image of this gentleman is a smooth black stone, in the form of a sugar-loaf. This image I have seen constantly worshipped, and it is generally kept very moist with the quantity of oil rubbed over it as an offering at the time of adoration. Many of the stories relating to the worship of these imaores are so gTOSS and disffustingf as to be unfit for relation. Shivu, they say, is a worshipper of Vislmoo, and the disciples of the former never eat animal food ; perhaps it is because they offer bloody sacrifices to him. On the festival days, those unfortunate superstitious creatures cast themselves from a bamboo stage, as high, sometimes, as twenty feet, upon bags of straw filled with iron spikes. They are seldom killed, but frequently severely wounded. They also have their tongues pierced. It is sometimes done by a blacksmith ; he rubs a kind of white stuff on the fellow's tongue, then catches a firm hold of it, and runs a knife through. I have seen an iron rod, fifteen feet long, that had been run through a hole made in this way, in a native's tongue ; also, in the same manner, I have seen a thick rope, about forty feet long, that was passed through the side of one of these unfor- tunate worshippers of Shivu. At this festival they also run bamboo, living snakes, and various other things, through those incisions made in their flesh ! They have another ceremony called ChwruMf or swinging by hooks fastened in their back. An iron hook is fastened in the back of the man or woman through the flesh ; the rope is then fastened to the end of a bamboo, and the wretch is 306 BEAST-WORSHIP. hoisted up and whirled round, describing a circle of about thirty feet diameter; they swing five, ten, forty, or sixty minutes ; and this in honour of their deities, or the fulfilling of a vow. Brumha created the Brahmins and the cow at the same time, which is a proper object of worship, as the cow afibrds milk and clarified butter. Besides the images are anointed with milk, curds, butter, and cow- dung. All unclean places are purified with cow- dung, and many Brahmins do not leave the house in the morning until the door and passage-way has been rubbed with cow-dung and chalked. The cow is worshipped in the cow-house before a pot of water ; yet these unfeeling rascals beat the poor animal unmercifully, although she be a goddess. The black-faced monkey is worshipped ; he is supposed to be immortal, and can grant long life and every gratification. Mr. Ward says, about thirty years ago, " The Rajah of Nudeega spent one hundred thousand rupees in marri/ing two ^nonlcrijit, when all the parade common at Hindoo marriages was ex- hibi*-ed. In the procession were seen elephants, camels, horses richly caparisoned, palkees, lamps, and flambeaux. The male monkey was fastened in a fine palankeen, having a crown upon his head, with men standing by his side to fan him. Then followed singing and dancing girls in carnages, with every kind of Hindoo music ; a grand display of fireworks and dancing, music, singing, and every degree of low mirth wore exhibited at the bridegroom's palace for twelve days cogotlier." The elephant, the lion, bull, buffalo, rat, deer, and goat are worshipped ; also the owl, peacock, goose, and others. Trees of various kinds are worshipped ; also rivers, particularly the Ganges ; and in fact more absurd things than I could mention. llth January. — Up very early in the morning, and rode with my friend to sec the lions at Dum-Dum. Wo arrived in time to breakfast with Doctor and Mrs. Wood, of the artillery, after whicli I wont to see the models of the various guns, rockets, carriages, &c., which are kept in beautiful order, and in the command of Major Powney. I took a look at the church and tlie mesa-house of the artillery ofiicers ; but there SUMMARY PUNISHMENT. 307 was not anything else worthy of attention^ except an extensive plain, where the artillery exercise and people ride and drive. There is a very neat and handsome theatre^where the amateurs carry on theatricals. Dum-Dum is the great depot for the Bengal artillery. I returned to Calcutta on the following evening, being engaged to dine with my friends Mr. and Mx's. Gisborne. l'3th, Sunday Afternoon. — I saw an immense crowd collected on a green near our house, and being desirous to know the cause, ordered my horse and rode amongst them. Tliey were all natives of the shoemaker caste formed in a ring, and a solitary woman in the centre, who held a brass pot in lier hand full of water, in which was placed a small green branch. A man stood close to her with a hullocl'-whii) in his hand, and who seemed ready to commence operations on the poor woman who stood among the crowd. I inquired what was the causc^ when I was informed the woman had boon caught in — , and she was brought there to be convicted in public, and flogged. I told the head man present, that if he attempted to touch her I would send to the Fort and have a guard to dis- perse them. He said there was not yet sufficient proof, as some said she was not guilty, and others said she was. They all spoke together, and it was impossible, I should think, to know one word that was uttered ; but I was determined to dash my horse in amongst them if they liad attempted to proceed to punishment ; however, they kept talking away until dark, and then they dispersed. 16fh. — I went to the Town Hall to see the annual show of European vegetables, and I never saw a better or a finer collection in Covent Garden Market, which speaks much for tho Horticultural Society. Lord and Lady Amherst wore present. Medals and premiums in money were distributed to the native gardeners who produced tho best vegetables of various kinds. Some of those fellows were quite pleased when I examined their medals, which were suspended from their necks, many of them liaving two or three. Potatoes, peas, cabbages, carrots, turnips, broccoli, caulillower, and various other kinds of vege- tables, wore as fine as any I liiul over seen Ijcfore. X 2 * 308 A MoySTET! BANYA?T. The Town Hall is a magnificent building. I wont to dine witli my friend Mr. Hovenden, and in the evening drove to the Lower Orphan Schools, which can accommodate four hun- dred girls and three hundred boys, the children of soldiers. The schools were remarkably clean and in good order; the children looked healthy and very cheerful. The boys were separated from the girls ; they have good teachers, and get a very good plain education. The former go out as clerks in offices, or to trades, or into the army, as they grow up. The latter are married at an early age. A soldier of good character who wants a wife gets a certificate from his com- manding officer, and goes down to this school, where he is introduced to some of the girls by one of the female teachers, and then he selects one for a wife. If she has no objection to her suitor, they arrange matters very soon, are called in the church, and get married, although, perhaps, they never met before. My time now rendering it necessary to leave Calcutta and return to my regiment, I sold ofi" my four horses, not willing to risk any of them in a sea voyage to Madras. I went down one day with my friend Gisborno to see the Botanical Gardens, which are situated on the right bank of the river, about five miles from Calcutta. They are very extensive, kept in very fine order, and contain an innumerable variety of the choicest and rarest plants in India, numbers of them being sent home every year to the East-India Company ; but that which attracted my attention most was the great banyan- tree, the largest, handsomest, and most magnificent one I had ever seen before. I took the dimensions of it, which were as follows : — Circumference of the outside of the branches . . COO feet. Do. of the trunk GO „ From the trunk to the outside circumference . . 75 „ Breadth of the shade under a vertical sun .... 150 „ Three thousand men might encamp beneath its branches and be sufficiently sheltered from the rays of the sun. It had thirty-six pillars supporting the huge outstretched arms, each of them as thick as a moderate-sized tree. I think I have described this CONVEETS. 309 wonderful work of nature in some former part of my journal, and those who have been in India will allow there is no exaggera- tion in the description I have made. When the arms grow out horizontally, they cast down small fibres, which are at first no thicker than a fine whipcord ; but they gradually increase in size and strength until they touch the ground ; then they take root, and support the parent branch, and as this continues constantly, no wonder the tree grows to such magnitude. We sat underneath its branches for some time, and the space around was so beautiful that we regretted very much we had not brought some tiffin with us ; it was such an inviting spot to dine, and the truth was I had not been so hungry for many a day; but I did ample justice to the connor* in the evening. We remained until the sun lost his daily influence, and then joined our boat. Mr. G and myself stripped, took to our oars, and pulled home five miles. I called on Mr. Goode, senior clergyman of the old church, to bid him good-bye, and was pleased to hear him say that " Christianity was making some progress amongst the natives. The seed was in the ground, and there was hope, through the blessing of God, that the harvest would be plen- tiful in due time." Ho informed me that eight Brahmins at Burdwan voluntarily renounced their impure and idolatrous religion, and had openly professed to be disciples of Christ. " He that will have His holy religion spread through all the dark corners of the earth, opened the hearts of those bigoted people to a conviction of their error, and they were then most anxious to bo baptized ;" but the Rev. Mr. Deer wished to give them a thorough knowledge of tlio importance of the change they wore about to make, before they were fully admitted as mem- bers of the Church of God. !Mr. Goode was a most worthy, pious Christian, and I bclievo what he preached ho practised, and what ho practised he preached, and that without any worldly fear of giving oflbnce. 1 had the pleasure also of being acquainted with the venerable Archdeacon Corrie, and a more pious, good, and worthy man * Connor — dinner. 310 LEAVE CALCUTTA. I never met before ; his very countenance was humility, and pictured everything that is good in man ; he was at the head of all that was being done for the kingdom of Christ, and wherever he found anything to do for his Master and the people of God, or the conversion of the heathen, there he was found at his holy work, and there he labom'ed with zeal for the glory of God, who will reward him eternally. 28th January. — I embarked my buggy, palankeen, furni- ture, and about twenty dozen of good claret, on board the brig Macaulay, and the following day we bade adieu to our hospitable, kind, and most worthy relatives, leaving behind us the City of Palaces and a population of 600,000 souls. My wife's brother, Mr. John D , was one of those merchant princes of Bengal who retired afterwards with a fortune of £10,000 a year. I held on at my trade to the end of the chapter, and retired from business with not ten thousand pence. Such is the difference of fortune between that of a civilian and a soldier; yet, if I was to begin life again, I would go back to my old trade. Our good friend Mr. Gisborne not only lent us his pleasure- boat, but accompanied us all the way to Saugur, to join our ship, a distance of one hundred miles. He ordered his boat to Garden Reach, about seven miles down the river, and there we met it, having travelled so far in the carriage ; but when wo arrived at the Ghaut, we found our trunks had not arrived, neither had our prog, of which we had good store; however, as our friend had provided also a good supply, we agreed to start with the tide, having sent back my servant in search of our stores, &c., which I ordered him to bring down the river with- out delay. Garden Reach is the most delightful part of the Hooghly, it being the resort of the wealthy inhabitants of Calcutta, who have very fine and handsome houses all along the banks for about nine or ten miles from the city. After you pass them there is nothing very worthy of notice on the river. We had agreed to stop at Faulta, about forty miles on our way, where there is an inn, and where we intended to pass the night ; but unfortunately the tide turned against us about ten o'clock, and there wo wore, without even a mattress to lie down upon. A NIGHT ON THE RIVER. 811 We had no kind of covering except a cloak belonging to Mr. G , which he wrapped round little Mary, and she went to sleep. Mrs. B felt the cold extremely ; but my friend and I kept ourselves warm by using the poles in pushing along close to the shore. We continued hard at work until about half-past twelve, when a breeze sprang up, which took us over the river, and up to our long-expected quarters. The night was exceedingly cold, and we bundled out of the boat as fast as we could; but instead of stepping into a comfortable inn, as I have done in England, the only apartment we could find was an uncomfortable room, exposed to the north wind, and without even a window ; as for a bed or a blanket, there was no such thing to be had. We found some crockery ware on the table, and with some trouble we got a cup of tea made. Mrs. B and Mary betook themselves to a couch, under the cover of a boat-cloak. Mr. (!■ went back to his boat, and I stretched my bones on a ratan cot, where I was almost frozen before daylight (notwithstanding I was in India). Next morn- ing we all assembled to breakfast a little more cheerful, and with better prospects of passing a pleasant day, my servant having arrived in the night with all our traps ; as there was a good breeze, we started about eight o'clock, and stemmed the tide until it turned with us, having on board lots of provisions, wine, beer, &c. We took our baggage-boat in company with us, it having come up in the morning with all our ship furniture and heavy luggage. Oar boat had three sails and ton oars ; but the boatmen are such miserable hands at pulling, that it annoyed me more than I can express to look at them. I almost think I could get an old woman that would pull more with a horn spoon than any man we liad. We got on very well with the wind and tide in our favour until eight o'clock, when wo found it impossible to gain the ship, so we put into a creek in Saugur Island, and made ourselves tole- rably comfortable, the tigers roaring all the night so near it mado me nervous, for they often take the water, and swim across, picking up a black fellow if at all in their way. To laud on Saugur Island is to go home with a tiger as sure as you put your foot ashore. We moved oft' again about 312 EN VOYAGE. three o'cock, and got alongside of the Marquis Wellington about seven in the morning, when we went on board. Our baggage-boat soon came up after us, and we took leave of our excellent friend, who returned to Calcutta. February 1st. — Captain Chapman was kind enough to give us one of the poop cabins, and we soon got ourselves very comfortably settled. The Wellington was a very fine and har^'some ship, of a thousand tons burden, and two of the officers on board happened to be townsmen of ours. The wind now came round to the north, and we were very anxious to bo offj but the captain did not get down from Calcutta until twelve o'clock on Sunday, the 3rd, when he arrived by the steam-packet with his passengers. Monday we weighed anchor, with a light breeze and the tide in our favour ; but the wind failing us, we anchored after making a few miles. The following day we got under weigh again, but got no further than the floating light ; but in the morning of the 6th the pilot left us with a delightful breeze, and the old WelUngton walked away at six knots without even turning up the bile in the most delicate stomach on board ; however, a daily account of a voyage is ever uninteresting unless something very particular occurs worthy of observation. The wind having died away again on the 7th, it was needless to either whistle for another or wear out our patience without a cause ; for my own part, I fell into the hands of the doctor for the first time since I left my regiment, for having awoke one morning with a violent sore throat, fever, and pains in my head and back, I was obliged to take to the medicine-chest , which I never failed to do in India when seriously attacked ; and I think if Europeans in general followed my example in this respect, they would not only save their health, but prevent the necessity of returning to Europe on " sick certificate." I was very unwell, but recovered in a few days. Nothing, per- haps, so much clamps the ardour of a traveller in India as to find that he may wander league after league, visit city after city, village after village, .and still only see the outside of Iiulitm society. The house he cannot enter, the group ho cannot join, the domestic circle he cannot gaze upon, the free, unrestra ined MASULIPATAM. 313 converse of tlie natives he can never listen to. He may talk witli his moonsliee or his pundit, ride a few miles with a Mahometan sirdar, receive and return visits of ceremony among petty nawabs and rajahs, or be presented at a native court ', but behind the scenes in India he cannot advance one step. The bars of intercourse arising from our faith are so many, that to live upon terms of intimacy or acquaintance with the people is impossible. It is rather singular that during my stay in Bengal I never saw a stone, with the exception of the milestones between Calcutta and Barrackpore. The houses are all of brick, covered with chunam, a very fine and beautiful plaster, which gives them for a time an appearance of polished stone or marble. On the 13th wo anchored in the small Bay of Masulipatam, about six miles from the shore, in five and a half fathoms water ; no one on board had ever been there before, so that all were anxious to go on shore, and none more so than myself. The jolly-boat was soon lowered, and the captain and six more pushed off for land to have a tJirce hours' cruise. We had agreed to rendezvous at the master attendant's office, at four o'clock in the afternon, to return to the ship; but the fact was we did not know the place we were going to, as will bo seen. The wind was fair, so that we got near the beach in an hour, and went bump aground on the sand, not knowing the cliannel of the river. The sailors soon jumped out, and with the assistance of some black fishermen dragged us into the tlie proper channel of the small river, which is a branch of the Kistna ; it being low water at the time, we stuck in the mud more than once, and before we got up to the landing-place the boat was surrounded by black fellows, who pulled us up to the wharf. From where we anchored we could only see the tops of the high palm-trees and the flagstaft"; as we approached the land, we found it a low sandy beach, without a single house visible, but after we got about a mile and a half up the winding, mud- banked river, Masulipatam opened to our view; and how shall I describe it ? There is a Fort of immense extent, surrounded by a very fine deep ditch, which may be filled at high and emptied at low water by means of two floodgates or sluices. 314 ON SHORE. The rampart was of brick, and very much gone to decay; a few nine-pounders in bad order lay upon the bastions at a considerable distance from each other, and as no attention was paid to the fortress, it seemed likely soon to fall to pieces ; indeed the walls were then breached in several places by old age and want of care. There are barracks inside of it for two regiments, a powder-magazine, a church, a small Catholic chapel, a large pagoda, and a populous native village. The officers^ quarters are separate from the men's barracks, and are very indifferent, indeed, the worst I ever saw in India, with the exception of our parade-ground. The rest of the Fort was a deep sand, very hot, and as miserable a quarter as I over saw. But this is digression. Captain Sweeney, myself, and three of the ship's officers landed together, and sallied forth. It was then three o'clock, and the sun very hot; but alight breeze gave us courage to steer for the pettah, or native town, parti- cularly as we were all determined to lay in a stock of the famous snuff of Masulipatam, for friends in need. I confess when I passed through, the western gate of the Fort and beheld nothing but an immense swamp with a causeway through it, and a wood in the distance, I felt more inclined to return, but curiosity and the snuf prompted me to go on. After wo crossed the swamp and walked a considerable distance ankle- deep in sand, one of our company (Mr. Duncan) sat down unable to proceed any further. Soon afterwards the other two sailors fell astern, and we saw them no more. Captain Sweeney and myself kept moving until we got into the centre of the village, where there was a tolerably largo square, all sand, the houses small, and not a thing to be got. In the middle of the square there was a variety of the finest speci- mens of carving on stone I had ever seen ; all I could learn of them was, that they had been brought from a very con- siderable distance, and they were to have been placed in a pagoda which never was built. We then inquired for snuff, and a black guide, who had attached himself to us, took us a considerable Ji^^ance to the house of a native; but as he was not at home, we sat down outside the door to await his arrival, for ho was a Brahmin. He soon, however, arrived and pro- FOOTBALL. 315 duced two bottles, whicli was all he had ; this we purchased at his own price, and he promised to give us what we wanted the following day. It was now getting late, and as we were far from our rendezvous, hungry, thirsty, and tired, we agreed to return by the cantonment, and walk into the first house we met, introduce ourselves, tell our story, and beg a night's lodging. As it happened, the first house we came to was occupied by Mr. Lewis, the clergyman of the station, who was pruning some young cocoa-trees in his compound, when wo introduced ourselves. He received us with kindness and hos- pitality, and after taking some refreshment, we went along with him to hear the band of the 38th Regiment N. I., which performed once a week before the quarters of the commandant, and attracted all the beauty and fashion of the place. After hearing some tolerable music, we returned with our worthy friend the parson, who gave us a comfortable supper and a good sltalie dcnvn, which I fear put him to some inconvenience. His sister appeared at breakfast the following morning, a very nice young person, with all the bloom of Old England on her cheeks. My friend and I being provided with horses, now bade our worthy host adieu, and rode off to the place of embarkation, but unfortunately we arrived too late for the boat, and all chance of getting off was then at an end for that day. I was much annoyed, but went to the quarters of Mr. Campbell and Mr. Roper, 38th N.I. I got a change of dress, and accepted a general invitation to dine at their mess while I remained. The 1st European Regiment are almost aU Irishmen, and I was not a little surprised to see nearly half of the corps kicking football at noonday under a scorching sun, and many of them without any covering on their heads. This was enough to destroy the strongest constitution, and send them all to hospital ; but they are thoughtless fellows in general, and they tripped up each other's heels with as little ceremony as if they had been on the green sod of Old Ireland. A comrade passed over the ground to his last home at the time, attended by an officer and the usual party, when they all of one accord ceased from their amusement, opened out right and left, took off their hats, and stood motionless until the funeral passed 316 MADRAS. through to the chapel, when one fellow gave the signal to raise the ball ; and up it went into the air like a shot, from the foot of one Darby Kelly, and the play was renewed as lustily as ever. A very shocking a^air occurred at Masulipatam a short time previous to my an-ival there. Two officers of the 1st quarrelled at billiards, when one took up his cue and struck his opponent on the head, who died a few hours afterwards. The culprit was placed in arrest, tried by the civil power, and merely sentenced to one year's imprisonment in the common gaol at Madras. As we had agreed to go on board very early the following morning, I aroused all up betimes, and after a scrambling breakfast left the Fort, and found a large party embarking for the Wellington^ to see some friends on board who had taken their passage home. Our boat was there, no doubt, but not a man at his post. We walked about until eight o'clock expect- ing them, but no appearance ; so we returned to our quarters, and found a message from a young sub, saying that he had got a private boat. So off' wo went, six of us on board, with five black men, to sail our little barge, and after a te- dious and most disagreeable run, terminated our excursion to Masulipatam, one of the most miserable, deserted-looking, dull deserts I ever witnessed in India. The following day. Captain Chapman came on board in his jolly-boat with several passengers he had picked up on shore. We weighed anchor at four o'clock p.m., and stood out to sea, and after a short passage anchored in Madras roads on the 18th, when I imme- diately proceeded to the hospitable residence of my friends. Major and Mrs. Maclean. I now parted again with my good wife and little one. Her brother long anticipated the pleasure of another visit from her, and awaited her arrival at Madras. So they started for Nega- patam, in palankeens, on the evening of the 23rd, being pro- vided with every comfort they could carry with them. My leave of absence having now expired, I was obliged to apply for a renewal, which I obtained through the kindness of my commanding officer and friend. Colonel Wethorall, who not MADRAS. 317 only made the necessary application, but invited me to take up my quarters in his house on my return to Bangalore. 16^/^ March. — I passed this my last day with my hospitable friends the Macleans, whose great kindness has made the time pass speedily awaj'-. It was on this day, three years before, I left my house and friends in Scotland, to many of whom I then bade farewell for the last time. Although it was my lot to go forth into the world, and be exposed to an Eastern clime, and pass through various other dangers, yet I was spared, whilst those I left in health, and surrounded with every comfort, were cut off in the prime of life, leaving friends and relatives to lament and reflect on the instability of human existence. 318 CHAPTER XX. St. Thomas's Mount. — Wallajabad. — Conjeveram. — Wild Fowl. — Arcot. — Chittoor. — Palanianair. — Moolwaugimi. — The Burial-ground. — En Route. — Arrive at Bangalore. ST. THOMAS'S MOUNT, the great artillery station of the Presidency (then the quarters of the 43rd N.I.), is only nine miles from Madras, and is approached by the best and most beautiful road in India. The cantonment is prettily situated under the hill or mount, on the top of which is a Roman Catholic chapel and a flagstaff'. I walked up, and had a fine view from the summit. The sea is about four miles to the eastward • 'ou can also see Fort St. George and the spires of the di it churches. The breeze from the ocean was delightfully retrb..a- ing ; the bungalows, situated in their neat little compounds, surrounded with the graceful palm, the beautiful banyan, and other trees and shrubs ever green and lovely, formed a charm- ing landscape. There is a very fine barrack for a European regiment, also artillery and infantry barracks for the native troops, and a handsome church, a fine mess-house, a racket- court, ball-room, &c. ; so that altogether it is a comfortable quarter and a very handsome cantonment. 18th. — After breakfast, having bid adieu to my friends of the 43rd N.I., I slipped into my palankeen, and went on to Pala- veram, a cantonment about four miles distant, and put up with the commandant. Lieutenant- Colonel Eraser, an excellent fellow and an old acquaintance. He was recovering from a most severe illness, which had a/Z hut carried him off"; his spirits were good and he was getting on well. Twenty-nine years in India have an effect upon the constitution of a European. Liver, gout, and rheumatism were his constant plagues ; yet when men live such a length of time in India, they are more unwilling than ever to give up their Eastern customs and luxuries, unless they WALLAJABAD. 319 can return with a suitable fortune to their native land — and the army is not the profession for making money. Palaverara is a neat and pretty cantonment, situated at the foot of a much higher hill than tho Mount, but on the western side, so that they lose much of the sea-breeze in consequence, and suffer from extreme heat. I sat down by myself to an excellent dinner at three o'clock, drank my friend's health in a bottle of Hodgson's best, took a few glasses of good Madeira, follov/ed by a dram of Irish whisky, and remained until half-past six, when with mutual good wishes we parted. I took off my boots, changed my jacket for a dressing-gown, loosed my choker, made my bod, stopped in, and told my boys to make for Wallajabad. The flaming torch was soon lighted, and I was once more on my travels. I fell asleep in a very short time ; but in the course of two or three hours I was awoke by hearing my fellows splashing about up to their knees in a paddy-field. I knew they had lost their way, and would not find it the sooner by scolding them. I therefore said nothing, shut my door, and fell asleep once more. Next morning, when I awoke, I found myself on the parade-ground at Wallajabad, with a black sergeant drilling his company close to my palkee. Having travelled twenty-eight miles, I thought it was high time to get some breakfast. I directed them to the quarters of Captain Campbell, 43rd N.I., with whom I remained all the day. There is nothing to be said about Wallajabad, farther than that it is perhaps the hottest station in India, and that few comforts are to be had. There is a barrack for a European regiment, and also for a native corps. The 43rd and 9th N.I. regiments were then quartered there. The officers' quarters were in a range of low buildings, facing the Parade. The veranda in front was long and narrow, the outside black and dirty, and the inside as hot as fire. My friend dated his letters " No. 11, Infernal Dungeons, Wallajabad," and they were most certainly more like dungeons than anything else. Although I was treated with every kindness and attention, it was a weary day to me. I breakfasted, walked up and down the veranda, read a book, wrote up my journal, had tiffin, called upon Major Gwyn, conversed with my host, looked at the Parade, washed 320 CONJEVEEAM. three or four times, walked about the cantonment, dined at tlie seven o^clock mess, and yet I think that I never passed a longer day. There are very few bungalows, few trees, only four ladies, the thermometer ten degrees hotter than at Madras, and I was very happy to start off for Conjeveram. Conjeveram is a large, straggling native town, famed for its pagodas and festivals. Although the sun was scorchingly hot, I took a stroll through the place, reconnoitred all the pngodas, and found them similar to all others I had seen. Some were of immense height and size ; in every direction they wore peeping from amongst the trees, which were thickly planted in and about the town. At one of these pagodas they were holding a feast, and the usual din of tom-toms, yelling, firiug squibs, all sorts of noise and barbarous merriment were going forward. Being alone, and the only European in the place, I did not like to go near them to gratify my curiosity; yet, as if I had been some outlandish animal, or some wonderful pheno- menon just dropped from the elements, I was surrounded and gazed at, some staring with mouths open, others making merry, and some showing off their wit and humour at my expense. I shut my umbrella quickly, and stepped up to one of them as if I was going to give him a knock on the ear, when they all scampered off, hooting and shouting at me. The Brahmins were very officious in their attentions, wishing to accompany me to the different pagodas, by way of opening the way to my purse. But they had no griffin to deal with — I was up to their low obeisance, their salams, and their knavery. I retired to my bungalow, tired and terribly burnt by the sun, disappointed and determined not to stir out again. For a further description of this famed place and its feasts, see " Sketches of India," by Captain Sherer. My little apartment looked out on a fine tank, where the white and red lotus grew in the finest perfection and abund- ance. At one side of my door a tope of plantain-trees, and at the other areca, cocoa, and mulberry. Men and women washed, bathed, and carried away the Kwcct water. My boya cooked their rice, stuffed, and went to sleep ; and at noon there w^s hardly a stir, save amongst the kingfishers on the % WILD FOWL. 321 tank and the squirrels and parrots in the garden, wlio were for ever making a row — I don^t know which of them was worst. A black fellow rode up to my door on an elephant capari- soned in scarlet cloth, bells, and various other ornaments. He made his salam and told the beast to do the same, which he refused, when he hit him such a dig on the head with an iron hook as would have killed any reasonably-sized animal. Mr. Elephant raised his trunk, and uttered a roar that made the woods ring, when I gave the fellow a hint to bo off, double quick. I saw him afterwards at the feast, where ho was taking a part in the ])lay. I met a great many groups of peasantry all tlio way from Madras, going down with game. They were a wretchedly poor set of creatures, who subsist entirely by their adroitness in snaring wild fowl. The game consisted of partridge, quails of various sorts and sizes, jungle-fowl, pea-fowl, teal, and snipe. The eyes of the pea- and jungle-fowl were sewed up, and they were placed on a bundle of sticks, balanced on the head, and did not attempt to move (this is a cruel operation, but the natives have no feeling) ; the other game was carried in baskets, and the women at the same time carried their younger children across their hips, which they shove out to support them, walking in a crooked posture. It is wonderful what (juantities of game those people thus take to the Madras ]}azaar, and the distance they carry them; whole families, heavily laden, will travel a distance of thirty and forty miles. Even at the risk of being thought egotistical, I may say that I have been always better able to get througli the world than most of my contemporaries. I always felt independent. I could do more for myself than most fellows. OfHcers generally get into lazy, indolent habits in India, which is somewhat excusable on account of the o})pressivo lieat ; some will not take a shirt out of their camp drawers, nor draw on a pair of trousers without the assistance of a dressin.g boy. I never required such assist- ance, nor did I over allow a black fellow to come into my room while I was dressing. I always took charge of my own clothes, my keys, and my coin. Of the latter I never was troubled with Y 322 ARCOT. miicli at a time ; but always had onougli^ and a little to spare in case of a march or a rainy day. I never wanted a friend — never liad an enemy to my knowledge. At four o'clock I got one of my palkoo boys to boil four eggs for my dinner, and with a small loaf of bread which I had brought with me, and a dust of black salt from the bazaar, I made an excellent dinner, washing it down with a tumbler of brandy -pawny. I liked a good dinner as well as any fellow j but I was ever content with a bad one when there was no remedy. I washed my plates, spoons, &c., put them up, and ordered my coach, and at five o'clock I paid my hill, being four annas, and got under weigh. Outside the town, to the north- west, there is a very fine square tank, in the centre of which is a handsome kind of pagoda, supported by carved stone pillars. The country was very barren, the roads deep and sandy, and nothing to relieve the eye but some palmyra- trees and a few paddy or rice-fields in the neighbourhood of a tank which I passed before niglit. I told my boys to go to Arcot, a distance of thirty miles, and to my astonishment they set me down close to the cantonment at a quarter-past one o'clock at niglit. I told them to go to sleep, and call me at five o'clock, which they did. I turned out, got my dressing- case, &c., down to a tank, where I shaved, washed, and made my toilet, and then proceeded to the quarters of Lieutenant- Colonel Kaynsford, 3rd Light Cavalry, commanding the can- tonment, where I was kindly and hospitably received through a letter of introduction from my late hostess at Madras which preceded me. The loth Light Dragoons had just marched for Arnee, in consequence of having suftered much from cholera. Colonel R. told me he walked into a carpenter's shop somo days before, and having seen a number of coffins ready nuide, ho asked the fellow whom they were for. " Oh," said ho, " I will have customers enough for them very soon ;" and no doubt ho had, for twenty-four European soldiers and ton natives died of cholera the same week. I left Arcot about ten o'clock at night, and arrived at the house of my old friend Captain Macleod at about two in the morning, made my way to my former apartments, and turned into bed ; had a good CHITTOOR. 323 sleep until seven next morning, when I turned out and dashed into a large cold bath, which was to me the greatest luxury. The thermometer at noon was 01°, yet I rode out to call on Major Anderson, of the IGth N.I. I also called upon the Commandant in the Fort, Lieutenant- Colonel Brodie, and found him laid up with the gout, a disease apparently very common amongst those people who live so well. Having stopped with my friend nearly three days, I set out by torchlight, on the evening of the 24th, by way of Chittoor, changing my route, with a desire of seeing a new country, and getting up the Chittoor Pass into the Mysore country. On the following morning I arrived at the house of F. Oakes, Esq., Judge of the station, a most excellent, kind fellow, with a wife, a young and pretty person, with whom I remained until the following evening. Mr. Oakes was a Man of India, who had ample comforts and luxuries, and was ever happy to share them with his friends. Chittoor is a retired romantic station, lying amongst numerous hills, which gradually rise above each other, while underneath is a valley of great beauty, through which runs the river. The society is limited, it being altogether a civil station. There is an old fort, a racket-court, and a jail ; the latter place is generally well filled. About 800 prisoners were in chains, condemned for certain periods to work on the roads. « 20//<. — About nine o'clock I bade my kind friends good-bye, and started for Palamanair, my next station, about twenty- eight miles distant. I passed through a very hilly country in the night ; but of course could not see anything. I fell asleep, and hardly awoke till about half-past five, when I turned out of my palkco, took my spear in my hand, and walked up the pass. The country was rather pretty : hills, dales, topes, and tanks, rocky mountains and paddy-fields, a very barren soil and a stony country. How the poor creatures were able to pay the collector one-half of the produce, and live upon the other, I cannot tell. They looked wretchedly poor, and their little huts were miserable. The pass into the Mysore country is Y 2 o. 24 I'ALAJIANAIR. neither very higli nor difficult to cross; but the roads are very bad for any kind of wlieclcd vehicles. I found a very material difference in the climate, the thermometer being fourteen degrees lower than at Chittoor. Consequently, there was a most delightful cool breeze, and a light, pure air that gave me new life, so that I walked the rest of my stage without being the least warm or fatigued, a thing I could not have attempted the day previous on any account. I went to pass the day with Mr. Roberts, the collector of the station or district, where I was treated with the same kindness and hospitality I had everywhere met with. He had a very handsome house, and everything correspondingly comfortable and neat; after breakfast I amused myself playing billiards with Mr. R. and Lady Sevestre. I play a tolerably good game at billiards, but Lady S. beat me two love games to my great astonishment. I never saw one of the fair sex play so good a game before, and as she was fair and pretty, I was almost proud to have got such a thrashing from so charming an opponent. The country all round Palamanair is such as I have just described. Barren, rocky, and unfit for cultivation, except some spots in the low grounds. Mr. Roberts chose this place as his head-quarters on account of the pure air from the hills and coolness of the climate. He has managed to make a very pretty place and a good road also, about five miles long. There is plenty of game in the country, and ho makes himself very happy (I dare say most men would do the same with his income — about a sack of rupees a month) . I thouglit there was a good deal of useless ostentation dis- played in so retired a quarter j such as three fellows running after the carriage with silver sticks when we went out to drive, and on our return about fifty peons and puUie servants assembled before the door, some with silver sticks, others with swords, and many with silver knives stuck in their belts. At the sound of a horn they formed line, and bowed their faces to touch the earth three times, all making a salam at the same time with their long right hands, and then they retired. I asked what the two silver sticks were used MOOLWAUGUM. 325 for (they are of the length and size of a drum-major's cane), and was told they were merely carried before ///spalkee, the fellows running and shouting all the time, "Long may SaJiib hve, and may his riches and money increase daily.'* There are a few other bungalows upon the same hill belonging to the Judges stationed at Chittoor, where they reside for about six weeks of the very hot weather, commencing the 1st of May, at which time their court is adjourned. My host ordered a cold fowl, some bread, &c., to be put into my palkee, and I bade him good night about ten o'clock and started for Moolwaugum, my next stage, twenty-six miles distant. I always had a happy knack of sleeping soundly in my palkee, and, after passing a pleasant day, retired as it were to bod, and found mj^self next morning twenty, thirty, or forty miles advanced on my journey. Some people cannot bear to travel in a palkee, neither can they sleep ; but for my part T always thought it very comfortable, and preferred it to any other mode of travelling. I was a very short distance from Palamanair before I had sunk into the arms of Morpheus, and awoke next morning about six, when I turned out and walked the remainder of the way to the bungalow, to pass a very different sort of day, perfectly alone and retired ; but I really never found my time heavy or disagreeable. I could always amuse myself reading, writing, strapping my razors, or even dusting out my palankeen and preparing it for the evening's march. Soon after I had dressed, I set to work about break- fiist, had my kettle boiling, my tea-things laid out on the top of my writing-desk, my cold fowl produced, and made a famous breakfast. I found I was still in the same kind of sterile country — nothing to be seen but mountains of stone and valleys of hard gravelly soil ; except the usual little patches of rice, and some tobacco, not a blade of green grass visible. There was a small village near to the travellers' bungalow, where he may be always provided with milk, eggs, fowls, and water, the latter being the greatest luxury when you can get it good. The natives are not very nice about their use of water, for they wash themselves and their clothes and their cattle in the same tank from which they lift the water for 326 THE BURIAL-GROUND. cooking ; ay, and I have seen tTiem wash their greasy hides and their teeth, and then drink out of the same spot, merely putting the surface of the water aside, which was cholera green in colour and stagnant. I have been obliged to drink this same kind of liquid, having it tirst strained and then mixed with brandy. I confess it went down with difficulty; but a traveller in India must have water, and he must put up %\ith the best to be got ; but of late I never trust to a tank : I carry my goblet of clear water with me. I cannot say much for Moolwaugum ; the country is wild and unfruitful. An old mud- fort stands close to the village, with some five or six ancient pagodas, such a fort as may be found at every village in the Eajah^s territory. In this part of the country they were originally built to defend both people and cattle from the hostilities of neighbours who, in days not long gone by, were ever opposed in feudal strife. I saw several graves, as I came along in my journey, on the side of the path, as they were generally marked with stone or wooden crosses. I supposed the inmates had been Christians, as their burying-grounds are always distinguished in this way. There were a great many native Christians at Chittoor, and one gentleman there in high rank (Judge D ) had actually mar- ried a black woman and left her all his property, both in India and at home. Ho was very anxious to convert the natives, and frequently paid them to become converts to Christianity. It is a most difficult matter to persuade an adult native to give up his prejudices and the religion of his country, and I would doubt much whether the man that was bought over in this kind of way was, or ever would be, a true and sincere Chris- tian. I am as anxious as any person to see the religion of Christ and His holy and blessed gospel spread in this heathen land, and amongst such an innumerable multitude of the most blind, bigoted, superstitious, and stupidly ignorant people in the world ; but it never will be done in this way. Schools must be established, and the junior class must be enlightened by early education, and brought up as free as possible from their long idolatrous customs and their lazy, idle, and profligate habits. Twenty minutes before five (Ihketobe particular) I jumped EN EOUTE. 327 into my palkee, having firet mado a hearty dinner of my cold fowl, salted a leg and- a wing for the following morning, and washed my plates,wliich I preferred doing myself; I was soon out of the town of Moolwaugum. As I passed through, it appeared larger and more populous than I expected, and there were some well-cultivated gardens and patches of ground on the west side. You hardly ever pass through a native town or village in India, but you will see one of their abominable festivals, or a preperation for one. Here they were assembled in multitudes dragging the pagoda car, dressed up in all the finery they could muster, in procession through the village. 1 had not advanced very far on my journey, when I perceived a black fellow suspended by a rope from the branch of a tree on the roadside. He had been hanged, and left there most likely as a terror to evil-doers. He was quite naked, with the exception of a dirty cloth wrapped round his head, his feet about a foot from the ground, and his arms extended forward, which showed he was not bound in the usual manner, but most likely held by the hands until dead. This was in the Rajah^s country, where very little ceremony was used in putting a native to death ; but they are very seldom, if ever, hanged, except for murder, which was likely enough to have been the crime this unfortun. wretch had committed. The country began to improve in appearance as I advanced, fine large trees being scattered over the plain, paddy-fields, gar- dens, cottages, and tanks. I got out of my carrlar/G and walked about five miles ; it then began to get dark. My boys lighted the torch. I put on my dressing-gown, had a glass of brandy- pawny, and went to sleep, When you travel with one lot of bearers, they always halt about midnight to eat rice and take a short sleep, two of their greatest luxuries, and people are frequently obliged to rouse them up with a stick, otherwise they would be there all night ; particularly when they get about half-drunk, sleep and stupidity so overcomes them, that it is almost impossible to move them. However, I have had no cause to complain, never having had the smallest occasion to say a cross word to my bearers all the journey. They put mo down at the bungalow at Narsipoor or Belloor, at two o'clock 328 AREIVE AT BANGALORE. in tlie morning, the end of my stage being thirty miles. I shut my doors, and had four hours' more sleep, when I turned out and went through the usual routine of dressing, breakfasting, and reading a few chapters in my pocket Bible, one of the best companions a traveller can take with him on a journey; when he beholds the blind ignorance and gross idolatry of the unhappy people amongst whom he lives, he should be doubly thankful that he was brought up in the knowledge of the Gospel of Christ, and endeavour to live according to that holy religion which those unfortunate people have been ignorant of for up- wards of eighteen hundred years. I started again about half-past four o'clock, to finish my journey, and arrived in Bangalore at six o'clock the following morning, 29tli of March, after an absence of seven months and five days. I put up with Colonel and Mrs. Wetherall, where I lived most happily as long as I chose to remain. All my old friends were rejoiced to see mo back again, and it took me ten days to visit them all. I had hardly arrived when I was generally requested to commence theatricals once more as manager, and rouse up the cantonment. General P and Commandant Palby volunteered to subscribe if I promised to get to work, and have a new theatre built. I agreed to make •myself useful, and in my leisure hours promised to renew my poor endeavours for the amusement and happiness of a liberal and happy society. [ No rain for seven months at Bangalore, rice crops burned up, tanks dry, fields that had fine crops of hay last year were parched dry and not a symptom of vegetation ; the day I went away the rain ceased, and on the very day I returned it commenced again, to the great joy and satisfaction of every- body. 329 CHAPTER XXI. An O'er-trne Talo. — Murder. — Eemorse. — Court-Martial. — The Defence. — The Sentence. — The Crimmal. — Rep( ance. — The Scaftbld. — The Execution. — " Otium cum." — A Youtliful Debutante. — Bal Costume. — A Durl)ar. — The Rajah of Mj'sore. — Fighting Men. — Their Presents. — A Courtier Elepliant. — Cheetah-hunting. — The Death. THE folloAving memoir presents a remarkable instance of the power of Divine grace, and shows in a striking manner the supreme importance, efficacy, and value of religion, and its power to support the mind when placed in circum- stances of the deepest distress and labouring under the most alarming apprehensions. The narrative will afford a convincing proof likewise that without " the washing of regeneration and the renewing of the Holy Ghost " a well-informed judgment, and even an excellent character, are utterly insufficient to pre- serve man from the grossest crimes and the blackest guilt. Few particulars could be gleaned relative to the former life and early history of this unfortunate man, William Boag, a private soldier in the Royal Regiment. It appears that he was descended from pious parents, who took all the pains in their power to bring him up in the nurture and admonition of the Lord. He was a native of Glasgow, and often remembered in after-life with grateful feelings the scriptural injunctions, holy example, and faithful counsel of his parents. At a proper age he was apprenticed to the business of a founder, the heat and severity of which work, together with the advice of depraved companions, caused him to indulge too freely in spirituous liquors. In one of those intemperate fits ho enlisted as a soldier, and was ordered to India to join his regiment. He often regretted, when too late, the step he had taken ; yet he conceived that by good conduct and steadiness he might be very comfortable in the army. He continued to be a good soldier after joining the regiment at Bangalore, in 1827, and 330 MUKDER. never was in the defaulters^ report or before liis coramandin*^ officer for misconduct. He read good books, and especially the Bible, and often talked to liis comrades on the importance of sobriety, piety, and virtue. However there is reason to fe.ir that during this period he was not sufficiently alive to God^s holy law, and perhaps entertained a better opinion of himself than was proper ; he had most likely rested on the outward forms of religion (as many nominal Christians do) without placing his whole confidence in his Saviour, the only true rock on which he could lean with safety, and rest with secure and steady hope. But to proceed to the fatal consequences in this instance, attending the sad crime of drunkenness. Most of the soldiers in the regiment received large sums of money as hatta, given by the Government as reward for their services in the Burmane mpire during the war. A scene of great dissipation ensued amongst the men on one occasion, and Boag after- w\ards told the Rev. Mr. Reeves, who attended him during his severe trial, that he often warned others not to di"'nk to excess, that he hated drunkenness and frequently resol 'ed that he would not again place himself in a situation so truly debasing, and that he had always been sorely punished by in- ward disquietude, with sleepless nights and a troubledconscience after former revelling and drunkenness. Notwithstanding this, he was by urgent entreaty overcome, resolutions made in his own strength were broken, and lie was once more found in a condition in which a man neither knows nor cares what he does to others or what becomes of himself. It was during this horrible state of inebriety that Boag, partly by human and partly by Satanic persuasion, and being under the influence of temporary irritation, loaded his musket, put it up in the stand until the lights were put out and the men asleep, and then took * it down and leliberately shot Corporal John Doran, who was asleep on a cot beside him. Doran, although a good, quiet, and a most inoffensive man, was hurried into eternity in this awful manner. The unhappy murderer made no attempt to escape or to conceal the revolting crime he had committed. He was immediately placed in solitary confinement ; and when the fumes of intoxicating liquor were dispersed, he became REMORSE. O'Jl keenly alive to all the guilt, the pangs, and the miseries of his wretched situation. It was in this painful state that thp Rev. Mr. Reeves, missionary, was introduced to him at the pri- soner's request. Ho had often attended the mission chapel, but was until then unknown to Mr. Reeves, who prayed earnestly that the spiritual presence might be with him wliile he preached " liberty to the captive, and the opening of the prison doors to him that was bound." May all the praise and all the glory be ascribed to the God of Salvation, who listened to the voice of his servant, and caused the feeble instructions which were communicated to be so cordially received, to be so firmly impressed, and to end so triumphantly. When Mr. Reeves first entered the cell of the unfortunate Boag, he found him sitting on the floor, pensive and agitated, with his folded hands resting on his trembling knees. There was nothing in his appearance bordering on indifference or obduracy ; ho looked a man sensible of his situation, and the few expressions he used indicated the sorrow and pain of his mind, and the general amazement with which he was overwhelmed. The prisoner for some days appeared almost bewildered in his imagination, stunned with the enormity and turpitude of tho guilt he had incurred, and appalled with the frightful con- sequences that were to be apprehended. To use his own words, " he trembled from joint to joint ;" and an estimable friend of his, who often slept in the cell with him, fiequently perceived in the wakeful hours of the night a cold perspiration suffusing his whole frame, while the arrows of the Almighty were drinking up his spirit, and his terrors made him afraid. He thought his iniquity was too great to be pardoned, and ho was ready to sink into a state of fixed despair. He felt that he had sent a fellow-being into eternity wholly unprepared and without warning. This greatly distressed him ; he was afraid that all this man's sins, as well as his own, would appear placed to his account. In this frame of despondency he re- mained for a long time. However, his fears subsided gradually; darkness was dispelled, and a day-star from on high visited him and cheered the dungeon where he was confined. " God remembered him in his low estate, because His mercy endureth itii>^ 332 coukt-martial. for ever." He was led to suppose that the fears and alarms he had entertained were occasioned by unbelief, to give way to which was both dishonourable to God and injurious to himself. He looked forward to the day of his trial by court-martial with considerable excitement, but passed through it with as much composure and serenity as could have been expected ; the following are the sentiments which he expressed when called upon for his defence : — " Gentlemen, — I now stand before you, charged with the heinous crime of the wilful murder of a fellow-creature, a comrade in the same regiment, and my immediate superior. When arraigned before this court, I felt inclined to stand mute, but finding that an answer was required, I pleaded not guilty, because my soul revolted from the thought of having deliberately, and with right reason, wilfully murdered another, a crime than which I believe there is none more hateful in the sight of that Being who gives life, nor more abhorred in the sight of man. I will not deny the fact that I believe the deceased met his untimely end at my hands, but wherefore I committed the act I am utterly at a loss to comprehend. Two or three nights before the fatal one the regiment received their batta granted by Government for the Burmese war ; and as may be supposed under such circumstances, there was much drunkenness and dissipation throughout the barracks. I did not receive any batta, not having joined the regiment till after the war was concluded, but my comrades took care I should not want for liquor, and the consequence was I was either intoxicated or stupid during the whole of Saturday, Sunday, and till the fatal night, since which time I have never been able to form any correct idea as to the manner in which I perpetrated the awful deed. All seems like a dream. From the evidence on record it is proved that after committing the act I made no attempt to escape, nor did I seek to hide myself as though conscious I had done something deserving of death ; no, I was found lying on the steps of the veranda. I am now unconscious of the words I am there said to have used. It has not been attempted to prove that there was any malice THE DEFENCE. 333 in my hoart against tlio deceased, and indeed were the wliolo regiment to bo individually examined before this court, I do not believe there is one who would or could say I had ever used a threat against the deceased, or that I was of a malicious or quarrelsome disposition, but the very reverse will be proved. Why I committed tho act I am quite at a loss to conceive, except that I was instigated by either man or devil, for it was as repugnant to tho principles inculcated by a pious father and to my former course of life as the retrospect is now repugnant to my "feelings while standing before this honourable court. I was in the habit of reading my Bible — I was even accustomed to reprove my comrades for swearing, but I deviated from what I knew to be right in getting drunk, more especially as it was on the Sabbath day, and this is the awful end it has brought me to. I am aware there is a twofold end in award- ing punishment — one that it may be a retribution to public justice, the other an example to deter others from evil. The former I acknowledge myself amenable to, as my just desert ; but could mercy be extended to me, I trust tho latter would not suffer, yea, I would hope it might be more promoted in sparing my life than in my death, for surely my future days should bo spent in endeavouring to deter others from the commission of crimes, tho awful result of which I at this moment so impressively and awfully feel, placed as I am on the very brink of eternity. " I beg, now, gentlemen, to throw myself on your kindness, and to implore your humane offices in recommending me for mercy. I thank you for the time allowed me in prej^aring my defence.'^ After the trial he was kept some weeks in anxious suspense, till the proceedings were sent to head-quarters at Madras; but the impression on his mind was that the issue would be death. He often said, " I know that nothing is impossible with the Almighty. If it seems fitting to His infinite wisdom. He can cause my days on earth to be prolonged, and I am resolved in His strength that if I live a thousand years they shall all be spent in walking close with God, in endeavouring to advance His kingdom and to glorify His name by a constant heavenly 334 THE SENTENCE. conversation ; but my days liero are numbered, I expect I shall soon be called hence. It is just that my life should be forfeited for the life which in an unguarded hour I took away, and my whole thoughts, therefore, are now uninterruptedly occupied with eternity." He felt very grateful to Colonel W (now General Sir (x. W , G.C.B.) forthemany indulgences extended to him during his imprisonment. He was allowed the society of all the pious soldiers who wished to visit him, and they wore not a few. He was allowed to have a light burning all nig-ht, and many of the good men would remain with him from gun-fire at night till gun-fire in the morning. They read to him large portions of the Holy Scripture, and ho read to them, and lectured upon various parts of the Gospel. They conversed together of Him they loved, sang the praises of their God and Saviour, and ofi'ered up fervent prayers to their Heavenly Father that he would open their eyes to behold the wonders contained in His law, and engage their affections more and more on the side of truth and holiness. He Uianifested much solicitude that others might benefit by his misfortune, and when his former thoughtless comrades were admitted of an evening to see him with the pious man who embraced every opportunity to be with him, he would speak to them solemnly and kindly on righteousness, temperance, and judgment to come. During the last week ho remained in this world, not only private soldiers but otlicers and other pious people, hearing of the state of his mind, felt it a privilege to visit him. He exhibited great peace and calmness ; his manner was free and unembarrassed, but his views were truly scriptural; ho talked much of the infinite value and efficacy of the atonement made for him and all penitent sinners. On Tuesday, the 8th of April, the sentence of the court-martial was confirmed, and it became the painful duty of Mr. l?eeves, who had all along attended the prisoner with the greatest care and attention, to com- municate to him the awful intelligence. After having done so as tenderly as lie could, Jioag reclined back a minute or two, shed a few tears, and then, with much composure, said, *' The THE CRIMINAL. 335 will of the Lord be done.^' When apprised of the short space allotted to him on earth (only three days), he replied, " God does not require a leugtheiied period for accoini)lishiny the purposes of His mercy/' lie asked whether his death was to be on the scatfold, and on being answered in the aflirmative, said, " That is of little moment if the soul is prepared for its dismission from the earth." His devotional, scriptural, fervent, and humble intercession truly delighted and astonished the worthy missionary who attended him. " It is a bitter cup thfit 1 have to drink," he said ; "butCJod can support and carry me through it all." lie frequently prayed that he might be able to meet his end with the meekness^ faith, and hope of a Christian. I paid him several visits, chiefly when on duty. I asked him at one time how he could have committed such a crime. Ho said, " O sir, I cannot tell ; it was so contrary to my nature. I would not throw a stone at a dog, nor allow it to be done if I could help it." I asked him how he felt in his awful situation. He said, ''1 thank God, sir, I feel well supported through Christ; His blood cleanseth from all sin." I said, " I hope your whole confidence is in God through Christ the Saviour." He answered, " yes, sir, there is my confidence fixed, I have no other hope ; indeed, there is no other hope whereby a sinner can be saved." I asked if I could do anything for him. He thanked me, and said, "No, sir, I believe I now do not want for anything." I then bid him a last farewell, with a fervent prayer, as a poor sinner could offer to God, to strengthen and keep him steadfast to the last. I went down about eleven o'clock at night to his cell, while on duty going my rounds ; long before I reached the prison I heard many voices united in singing their Maker's praise. His prison-house hardly deserved the name; it was a cell in one of the coiKje-liouses in the Barrack Square, where men were confined by the comnumding- officcr for offences of drinking, &c. On coming to the prison door, I found it open, as was usual at night (from tlie great heat), with sentry outside ; jt was crowded with men of the regiment, as well as several women. The prisoner gave out many of Watts's hymns, which were sung by all present with 336 REPENTANCE. much fervour. When tlioy saw me at the door, they wished to make way ; but I beckoned to keep quiet, when they sang some more hymns. Then one of the soldiers said, '' Let us pray." In the most humble posture they all knelt down, their heads to the very ground, and a more eloquent, pious, fervent prayer I never heard uttered than by that private soldier ; it was chiefly relative to the unfortunate prisoner, giving thanks and glory to God for His grace in supporting their brother in affliction. They sat up all night singing hymns, and praying for that mercy which I have not the smallest doubt was extended to the prisoner through tho merits of the Saviour in whom he trusted. A pious friend says : — " I went up to him at noon on Thurs- day, and stayed till one o'clock ; then it was I saw how clearly all was the work of the Holy Spirit. Soon after I went in, he proposed singing one of his favourite hymns ; his simple reliance in Christ as the only foundation, and his sure hope in Him,Avere truly delightful. The Bible had charms for him which no other book possessed ; his prater before we parted was indescribably beautiful, and his whole countenance after ho rose from his knees was irradiated as if indeed it reflected the beams from the Sun of lligjiteousuess." Mr. Eeeves says : — " I am constrained to acknowledge the last few times I went to converse with him I felt that I was going rather to enjoy a privilege than to discharge a duty ; there was something so devout in his manner, so spiritual in his converse, and so heavenly in his appearance, that he appeared evidently, under the influence of tho Holy Spirit, to be rapidly growing in grace, and becoming ' meet for tho iuheritance of the saints in light.' " On the evening prior to his execution ho partook of the Sacrament with several other pious men, and seemed greatly refreshed and strengthened by it. Tho few remaining hours of his earthly course were occupied almost incessantly in praying, reading, and singing ; his fervent cries for mercy and pardon ascended to heaven with incessant importunity. Ho gave out tho hymn which commences with these lines : — THE SCAFFOLD. 337 The hour of my departure's come, I hear the voice that calls me home." Before this hymn was concluded, the officer of the guard came to take him to the place of execution, of which he was informed by the Eev. Mr. R . He asked whether there was not time for another prayer. He was told not; but there would be opportunity wlieu he arrived at the place. He said, '^ Very well, let us go." He now went out dressed all in white, and placed himself at the head of the guard, Mr. Reovea by his side. As the party marched across the IJarrack Square, he remarked on the serenity and calmness of the morning as an emblem of the state of his mind. He walked all the way to the fatal place ; but his observations were few. He said to Mr. Reeves, " If I do not speak much to you now, it is because I wish to have raj; whole soul absorbed in Christ, and my whole attention fixed on eternity," and this was the reason ho declined speaking the address to the spectators which he had prepared. It was as follows : — " My fellow soldiers, — I now address you, situated as I am on the brink of the eternal world. I here acknowledge the justness of the punishment I am about to suffer. The crime I committed was very great ; the more so as it was committed without provocation. I am desirous, therefore, to be resigned to the will of the Lord, who hath said, ' Whoso sheddeth man's blood by man shall his blood be shed ',' and to Him do I now pray that the awful warning this day placed before your eyes may have its full effect in deterring others from those ways that lead to death. Beware, my fellow-comrades, of drunkenness, the fruitful mother of all other evils : it is it that has brought mo to this untimely end; but I trust there is mercy with God, and though ni}'^ body of sin is to meet its due desert, my soul, my never-dying soul is safe. Yes, I trust I have sought for pardon with a contrite spirit, and that my soul is washed from all sin in the blood of my Lord Jesus Christ, which the promise of a faithful God assures mo cleanseth from all sin. Yea, though my sins were as scarlet, this blood can mako them whito, and I trust has mado thom z 338 THE EXECUTION. white as snow. I have fouud during my imprisonment, and do now find in the immediate prospect of death, that Jesus Christ is a sure and never - failing refuge for all who truly believe in him. Oh ! flee to him, and you are safe. Many here can witness what support I have found in the Gospel of the grace of God ; and now with my dying breath I implore you to seek salvation in this way, the only sure way, for there is no other name given under heaven among men whereby we must be saved. Into Thy hands, Lord, I commend these my last words ; bless them to others. And now into Thy gracious care, O my blessed Redeemer, I commit my spirit j bear it to those mansions Thou hast prepared for them that believe in Thee. Amen." In taking his seat on the scaffold ho manifested the utmost compohare and placidity, and joined very devoutly in singing the 17th Hymn, 1st Book of Dr. Watts. " ! for an overcoming faith To cheer my dying hours." After praying again, he prepared for the executioner to do his office, and when all was in readiness he presented a few supplications to Heaven ; the last words he was heard to say were " Lord Jesus, receive my spirit ! " when he gave the signal himself by dropping a white kerchief behind him, and he imme- diately entered into eternity on the tnorniiig of the hventy-thml year of his age, in the humble anticipation of a blessed immor- tality. Although his arms were tied behind his back, his hands were clasped together as if still in prayer while in death. I thought him long in dying, for his whole frame trembled some momt is after I supposed him dead. The whole of the troops in the cantonment were witness of this awful scene, and God grant it had the desired effect on their hearts and minds, which was earnestly prayed for by the deceased. His body was taken down afterwards, and buried in a mango tope by a few of his pious comrades who attended him during the preparation towards a happy eternity. The man who urged the unfortunate Boag to commit the (( OTiUM cum/' 3^9 dreadful crime for whicli he suffered, was turned out of the regiment. Had there been siifficient proof against him, he would have been tried by the same court-martial. He was a man of bad character, and the feelings of every soldier in the same company were incensed against him and glad to be quit of his company for ever. I enjoyed myself very much in my old quarters again ; invita- tions came without number from all my old friends. I went on several shooting parties with General Pritzler, but we never were very successful. Florokin is the bird mostly sought for, but they are not easily approached, being very wild ; they are about the size of a barn-door fowl, with a long neck, nearly the colour of a partridge, and very delicate eating. I always thought the best part of the fun was the General's dinner and good wines, and always enjoyed my dinner in a tent in this kind of way, on a wild heath, or by the side of some seques- tered tank, hearing the jungle-cock crow, and seeing the wild antelope bound along with surpassing fleetness, more than in the finest house and at the best-supplied table in India. My wife and child having now returned from a three months' leave of absence, I rented a very nice bungalow, with com- pound and garden. I amused myself daily making improve- ments, building pandalls with trellis-work fronts ; preparing my ground for a hay crop, sowing grain, planting potatoes, &c. &c. — in fact, my time was so much occupied between regimental and garrison duty and attendance to my little farm, that I never at any moment found myself unemployed, nor did I eyer pass a dull hour. I managed my income with economy, lived very weU and comfortably, saw my friends, and was glad to see them. No creditors stared me in the face, and I never knew what it was to be in want of a bag of rupees. My house was well and neatly furnished; my servants behaved well, for they never asked their monthly wages in vain. Our little country residence was well and cheerfully situated, command- ing a view of the country for thirty miles, at which distance, in our front, stood the lofty and majestic hill of Nundidroog, towering in the clouds, with a strong and entirely perfect fort on its summit, like a crown. A little beneath our bungalow z 2 340 A YOUTHFUL DEBUTANTE. was a small lake, or tank of large size, almost surroundec. by- very handsome houses, each standing amongst lofty man o trees, and thoroughly fenced by the graceful bamboo or . . penetrable aloe. Four or five very pretty sailing boats were on this tank. I often sat under my pandall to see them try their skill, sailing almost in the wind's eye up to Collctt's* Gardens, wearing round, and dashing off before the wind to the Pagoda Rock. It was merely a puddle, after all this grand description ! My garden was stocked with the coffee, lime, guava, lequot, cotton, custard -apple, mulberry, and plantain trees, various kinds of vegetables, Indian and European, also the pumplemuss or shadock-treo, and the pomegranate. The pumplemuss is a large fruit in shape like an orange, and very good and juicy to eat in hot weather. We had also pine- apples and European apples, but of a very diminutive size. Sir Theophilus and Lady P gave a splendid ball and supper on the 4th September, in the Palace. Amongst the beauty and fashion of Bangalore, my daughter M. A. B (aged seven years) made her debut, or first appearance in public society, and in the palace, too, of the famous Ilyder Aly and Tippoo Sahib ! The house was well hghted, and had a very splendid appearance. It was a building somewhat in the Roman or Gothic style, with two open fronts supported by double gilt columns, three double rows in each front ; a long gallery divided the suite of dancing and supper apartments ; at each end of the gallery there were double music-rooms, one to each front, so that the music had only to countermarch when supper was announced. The royal band and the band of the 29th N.I. played alternately, one at each end of the gallery ; in the centre there was a projecting box, the seat of former black royalty, occupied upon this occasion by the Fursdar, Governor of the province. Collector of Revenues, and brother- in-law to the Rajah of Mysore. He was a large black monster of an Indian ; the white of his eye, which contrasted with his sable countenance, gave him a very stern and forbidding appearance. * Colonel Collett, 1st N. Cavalry, who had a beautiful place on the bank of the lake, and a splendid garden. BAL COSTUME. 341 The dancing was kept up witli sjDirit until twelve o'clock^ when we retired to a most rcclierrhe supper. The representative of l)laek majesty countermarched, and looked on at the cheerful table, but would not join or sit down to supper with us. It must have been a great contrast to himself and his numerous attendants to see the ancient palace of their most renowned generals occupied by a few British officers dancing and carousing with as little ceremony, as little fear of danger, and with as mucli safety as they would have done in Old Eng- land, although the Eoyal llegiment was the only corps of Euro- peans in the circumference of 300 miles. The outside of the palace was well illuminated, and water-works played all night. The evening was cold and dry, and altogether it was tke best party I had ever seen in India. oO//t September. — The officers of the Artillery gave a fancy bfill, which surpassed any other I ever saw at Bangalore for splendour, good taste, novelty, and mutual good feeling. About 150 persons appeared in fancy dresses; the costumes of all countries were displayed, from the old apple-women at Covent Cardcn to the Nabob of the Carnatic, the old Dervish, Turk, and Parsee, the Dutchman and Moonshee, Oliver Cromwell and Queen Mary of Scotland, Sportsmen and Blind Fiddlers, Highland Lairds and Lowland Lasses, the Tyrolese Peasants and Alpine Bobbers, Sailors and Arabs, Queen Elizabeth, and Henry the Fourth, Sepoys, Jews, Frenchmen, and Spaniards, Friars and Chinamen, Mandarins and Irish Ballad-singers, &c. t*vrc. &c. The ladies were dressed with much taste and elegance. Singular to say, there were not two people in the room dressed alike. I was well disguised as an old aiipJc-womau, aud created much fun, selling my fruit to the ladies, until the sailors got too much grog, when they upset me in a corner of the room, robbed me of all my fruit, broke my spectacles, stole my basket, and otherwise abused me ! During the evening I danced a Scotch reel with a cripple beggar, a lame fiddler, and an old ballad-singer, to the mirth of all the motley group. Quadrilles were given up, and people of all nations surrounded us ; but so well were we disguised, and so nimbly did our heela % about, that unrecognized we kept the mobility at a respectful 342 THE DUEBAR. distance till we finished a reel that lasted twenty minutes, at the end of which time the risible faculties of the assembly were nearly exhausted as well as ourselves and our fiddler ; so we bolted off to our tents, and changed our fancy dross for something more genteel, and played our part at a magnificent supper. Having received an invitation from the Resident of Mysore to pay him a visit during the Dussurah festival, Mrs. B. and myself left our home on the 8th of October. The Rajah having posted bearers for us, we ran the whole distance of eighty miles in twenty- three hours. The terrace on the top of the house which we occupied was a very extensive one, and commanded a beautiful view of the Re- sidency, Fort, the Rajah's Palace, Mysore Hills, the French Hills near Seringapatam, and a fine sheet of water close to the hand- some park below, all the country about which was very pretty. We were entertained by our worthy host in the most splendid way ; everything was of the very best, and a more superbly furnished table I never before saw spread for so many guests. About half-past four o'clock the horn always sounded to dress for the Durbar. At five two troops of cavalry formed in front of the house, and a company of Sepoys. The Resi- dent's carriages, Tom-Jolins, and palankeens assembled to con- vey the guests, and in we scampered to any vehicle we fancied most. The cavalry led the way, then the palkees, with the spearmen and the carriages, brought up the rear. In this way the procession advanced every day to the festival. As the Resident entered the Fort, a salute was fired from the battery by order of the Rajah, and the same on his return. I shall now find it a dijQficult matter to describe wli'iit I saw, and howl was struck with a scene so novel, so imposing, so grand, so barbarous, so orderly, so noisy, so humiliating, so foreign to anything I had ever seen before or may ever see again. I proceeded in my carriage through some dirty, narrow streets in the Fort until I reached the square, which I found crowded with natives. It was railed off", however, with iron chains, to keep the centre clear, where the exhibitions were to be seen. We proceeded to the Palace, which occupied one side of the square, and, alighting, we were conducted through the passage under- THE EAJAn OP MYSOIJE. 343 Death into another small one, ankle-deep with mud and dirt, up a dirty narrow staircase, and into a very splendid apart- ment, which occupied the whole length of one side of the build- ing, and was supported with columns very handsomely carved and gilded, studded with square and oblong pieces of mirror, and fancifully painted ; the roof projected considerably, and waa tastefully and magnificently painted and ornamented. The whole gallery was open to the front, and in the centre hia Highness the Eajah sat on his musnud, or chair of state. We were severally introduced by the Resident, made salam, and shook hands ; then took our seats on either side of him. He was elevated above the other seats, sat cross-legged like a tailor, on an embroidered cushion, another supporting his back, and one at each side for his arms. Over his head hung a very beautiful canopy, in shape like an umbrella, studded with precious stones, and covered with gold. I observed a great number of precious stones in the musnud, and two strings of pearls, about two feet long, which were suspended from each arm of this chair of state, each string about as thick as my wrist. The chair altogether was valued at upwards of a lac of rupees, or about £10,000. His Highness the Rajah was about thirty-five years of age, of the middle size, very black, but rather a good-looking man. He wore large mustachios, and in his cliceh the usual c[aid of betel ; but of larger size than I ever saw stuffed into the mouth of a subject. He was richly dressed, and round his neck wore a string of pearls and emeralds of large size, and very costly. I was informed by the Resident that his jewels were of more value and more numerous than those of any other native prince in India. He wore a new dress eve^y day, and whenever he sat on the musnud a salute of five guns was fired from the Fort where he resides. The jetty, or fighting men, first advanced into the square below, looked up to the Rajah, and made salam by prostrating themselves at full length upon their belly and face on the ground, then arose quickly, threw up some yellow flowers in the air, and placed themselves in a position of attack and defence. They have a horn, v/hich is fastened between the 844 FIGHTING MEN. second and third joints of the riglit hand, with nobs or sharp points for the more speedy drawing of blood. They do not use the left hand for blows, all the work being done with the right hand, on which the pointed horn is fastened. The head is always the object of attack, and every blow draws blood ; but they have none of that science which our English bruisers are skilled in. They are extremely active, and stripped naked, with the exception of a little pair of short, tight kind of breeches about the loins, and they jump about like antelopes. I observed they always made a dash at the leg or thigh, and if they succeeded in tripping up the heels of the adversary, the fellow underneath sometimes got a severe combing ; but they twisted about like eels or snakes, and so rapidly that I thought their necks would be broken ; I never saw such nimble fellows. Their guards were very good, and the blows well parried ; but sometimes, when they got enraged, they hammered away pell- mell, both heads hanging down, so that their blows were mere chance work ; then they would come to close contact, and it became a wrestle between them for a considerable time. Tho fellow who was thrown always brought his antagonist with him, and they would tumble over and over, each endeavouring to disengage j but they held each other so firmly, that it was a difficult matter for the uppermost man to gc^t away, for the moment he got his right hand clear, he pegged away at tho other fellow^s head, so that he left him streaming in blood. Tho Eajah was somewhat merciful on these occasions, for when ho held up his hand it was enough ; the combatants were sepa- rated, or gave over themselves, with perfect satisfaction, and apparently without the least animosity. The fight (such as it was) seldoiji or never exceeded five minutes, and half of that period seemed to be quite enough to exhaust many of those who were extremely fat, and others very old men. I saw one man fight who was seventy-five years of age, and I was sorry -to see the poor old fellow bleeding at that time of life; his engagement was very short, for the Jlajah held up his hand, and as all eyes below were ever fixed upon him, the slightest signal was sufficiently understood by the superintending people below. Every fighting man got a present before ho THEIR PRESENTS. 345 left the square. Some got handsome shawls, others silver-gilt bangles, and others necklaces. The higher caste, and most scientific men, got the most valuable presents. The shawls were all English, the other presents were native articles. One very active, able fellow who fought the last day, got his adversary down, and secured both his arms by placing his knees upon them ; he then pounded away at the fellow's head, and would have killed him had not the peons hauled him off. This man got the most valuable present of any who fought ; he received a very handsome shawl ; a pearl feather was placed in his turban, and ho also got a necklace and bangles — total value about 900 rupees. When the presents were placed about their necks, they prostrated themselves at full length on the earth, first towards his Highness the Rajah, then towards the right side of the square, the apartments of the llanee. They were hardly out of the square when a pair of fresh hands were at work in their place. I went to the schools to see them practise and spar, and was surprised to see their agility. They wo"J i make a summerset head over heels, and fall flat upon a hard floor, to show their condition ; run up a wall four feet high, and tumble heels over head ; put large stones in shape like a quoit round the neck, and jump about ; I could hardly lift these stones. They used very heavy bats of wood, which they twisted and turned round their heads in all shapes and ways. They lay on the ground upon their backs, and rolled a large heavy bag of gravel (which I could not lift), and which was placed across the breast, down to their loins, and sent it back with their knees to its original position. A largo post was stuck in one corner of the house, about seven feet high, upon which they practised a good deal ; a fellow would look over his shoulder at it, make a spring, catch it by the top, and twist himself into all shapes, supporting his body by one leg or one arm, twisting and turning in all directions, like a snake. These men are in the llajah's pay. His elephants, horses, and camels were below in the square every night, covered with their fmcst trappings. As soon as the fighting was over, all ranks of people, com- 3 1-6 A CODRTIEli ELEPUANT. xnencing with the torch-bearers, paraded in the square below, and made their most humble submission to his Highness by prostrating themselves to the earth; then, turning to the Ranee's apartments, made the same obeisance ; his own sons were not excluded from paying this mark of respect, for they all went down to the square, made their salara, and returned again to the gallery, and squatted down in front of their father. The state elephant was then brought into the square, with trappings of scarlet cloth embroidered with gold in the richest manner; his trunk fancifully painted, and his ivory tusks covered with brass rings. Ho had bangles on his legs, and seemed to be quite proud of his ornaments. He was attended by an advance and rear guard of sepoys with fixed bayonets and music playing. He stopped in the centre of the square, made salam to the Rajah by raising his trunk above his head, and lowering it slowly; and, after performing the same ceremony to the Ranee side of the square, he retired. A very fine band belonging to the Resident played every night ; but the discordant, shrill, intolerable native music and the row below completely overcame it ; the fire- works, rockets, squibs, fancy-dressed black fellows going through something like a pantomime, guns firing, and a most horrid noise amongst the fellows below, resounding the titles and honours of his black Highness. The tout gave a fair idea of the nether regions. I was always glad to see the Resident rise, when we all made a salam, shook hands, and returned to a magnificent dinner. The Resident kept a much better table than the late Governor- General, Lord Amherst. Everything was good, well cooked, and of the best description, and never did I see a man so anxious to please his guests, his attention being equally divided amongst all classes. A wild elephant was caught, and brought up to the house chained to four tame elephants by the hind leg, and by the neck. The wild ass of the desert was also brought from the Rajah's stable to gratify our curiosity ; it was the only beast of the kind we had ever seen, and I believe the only one in the south of India. It had the appearance of a mule, colour dun. CHEETAH-HUNTING. 347 witli a long black streak down the back, and was quite un- tamable. It was considered as fleet as a race-liorse; but never was backed. Jugglers innumerable came to the house every day, some of whose tricks were really wonderful. A black fellow, with a pole about ten feet long, and a cross piece of wood merely to rest his feet on, balanced himself by holding the top in his hands, and jumped up and down the road and round the house as fast as T could run. Another fellow held a round stone, about twelve pounds weight, be- tween his feet, threw it up over his back, and caught it on his shoulder ; from thence ho would roll it down his arm to the back of his hand by a kind of jerk ; from that he would throw it off, and catch it on the back of his neck, and so on ; he could do anything with it. Another fellow suspended himself in the air, and all the support we could see was a staff on which he leant his left arm. I was out cheetah-hunting twice, and was rather disappointed ■with the sport. These animals were very well trained, con- sidering their savage nature. The evening before we started they were sent forward to the ground, also men to watch the deer all night. In the morning at daylight we set out, and, after a ride of seven or eight miles, came close to a herd of antelopes. The cheetahs were hooded and sitting on a light cart (drawn by two bullocks), on a couch of network ; they were chained by the neck, and had a strap and buckle round the loins. Two men attend each cheetah ; one to drive the cart, the other to unhood and let him slip ; the latter keeper to-day was an old sportsman, long ago in the service of Tippoo Sahib, with a very white head and moustache; a very hale old man with a bright eye i.nd many wrinkles, and most anxious to show us some sport. The watchmen came up to say there was a herd of antelopes on the plain near to the common cart- road, and all sahibs were requested to ride up the hill and look out, but not to follow the cart, or the deer would be all off. We took our station accordingly, had a fine view, and waited the event. As the common carts of the country are frequently passing in this way, the deer do not take any notice, and so our two pirates steered along. 31'8 THE DEATH. When within one hundred yards or so, Old Tip (as he was called) slipped the hood, unbuckled the strap, and let the tkivr loose. In an instant iie fastened his eye upon an old buck, and that one was the Individual doomed amongst the herd. Ho now slipped gently down from his perch, got behind a big stone, and peeped over it. No go yet. He crawled gently to another cover, and looked over — not near enough. A little farther on there was a bush, just within the reach of this cun- ning half-wild, half-tame, treacherous fellow, which he gained by creeping along at a snail's pace ; here f^e made up his mind for the spring. The first bound surprised the herd ; tliuy hesi- tated a moment ; the next bound they were off. The old buck was the last, pcrhnps to cover the retreat of his family, but too late — before he had time to turn about and fly for his life he was in the grasp of a tiger. We all rode up to see the finale. TliM beautiful creature was seized by the throat, the cheetah growling like a cat, and rolhng over him with flashing eyes of fury and delight. Old Tip now took out his knife, cut the throat of the noble buck, and caught the blood in a dish, which was lapped up like cream ; and with a lower joint of the leg cut off and thrust into his mouth, the cheetah let go his hold, and permitted himself to be hoodwinked, and took his former scat in the car. The other cheetah was slipped in the same way when wo found another herd ; but he was unsuccessful, and so angry that it was a long time before the keeper could appease his wrath. He sat with his eyes on fire, growling fearfully until ho got a slico of venison from the deceased buck. They get very savage when they miss their game, and give up the chase after a few bounds ; they never follow up the deer, knowing their speed. I went to see the Knjnh's hlack tiger. It was kept in an iron cage along with another of the common kind. I put my sword into his prison : he caught it directly with the most savage fury, liis eyes sparkling with rage, and his mouth open, showing his enormous teeth. A ram was turned out one day before a lion ; but he merely looked at it, wagged his tail, and lay down very quietly, putting his liead between his paws. 3i9 CHAPTER XXII. The I'.ijah's rarriap;e. — A Procession. — Sci'ingapatam. — Tippoo's Tomb. — Hyder's Palace. — A Pagoda. — The Dussondi Festival. — A Drunken Doidiey. — Novel Ti<,fer-huntino;. — The Rajah's Review.— A Dnrl)ar. — Falls of Cauvery.— On the ISIarch. — A Canny Ele[)hant.— Fine Water- falls. — "IFdr" Tiger. — Burned Alive. — Closepet. — Welcome Home. VSIh Octohcr. — Rajah sick. No Durbar. Ilo sent liia state coaclics and elephants up to the Residency for our amusement. Twenty-two ladies and gentlemen went into the state carriage to take a drive, and myself amongst the number. The body of the coach was hung on three crane-worked perches, was of an octagonal shape, and open at all sides ; but there were rods all round for curtains ; the roof or canopy was supported by twelve double })illars, carved and gilt. Above each pair of pillars there was a silver spiral ornament, and on the top of the sloping roof a single one of the same kind, but much larger; ix. ^he centre of the carriage was the royal seat, whicli held six people, three on each side, with two passages into it, and one step loading up to it from the great body of this extraordinary vehicle. This separate apartment has a beautiful canopy, also lined with scarlet velvet, beautifully and closely embroidered in gf)ld. It was supported l)y gilt pillars ; there were lamps attached to these pillars, as well as the double ones outside; tho large canopy was lined inside with green velvet embroidered in gold; silk tassels hung all round, and the floor was covered with English oil-cloth; (lie coach-box held tlireo people. Wo ascended by a ten-foot ladder. The hind wheels were eight feet high, and splinter bar ton feet long ; six hugo clei)hants were harnessed and yoked to this carriage ; two ele- phants walked behind to push it along Avith their trunks in case of emergency ; altogctlier it was a rare, novel, and most extraordinary spectacle. Each elephant has his own driver, who sits on his neck with his feet in a pair of stirrups, and an iron gourd with a spiko and hook to it for guiding liim. Tliey 350 A PROCESSION. are tlio most docilo creatures in tlie world amongst their keepers, and the most sagacious. I saw one going to water in the river, but he evidently was not very thirsty ; his driver having urged him much to drink, he at length put his trunk to the water, made a splashing noise, put it up to his mouth, as if emptying it into his huge carcass, and then walked away, well knowing he had deceived his guide, who could not see whether he liad drunk. Elephants are much used in the field with the array. Ge- neral Pritzler told me he had occasion to use them for raising guns out of the deep bad roads on the march, and one day, when one of these creatures was at this work, he was punished for being, as his keeper thought, slow in his business ; lie took offence at his bad treatment, got into a rage, smashed the gun carriage to pieces, and scattered it about the field ! But to resume. Another state coach came behind us, drawn by another state elephant. He was almost covered with a scarlet cloth, beautifully embroidered in roses of gold, which entirely covered the harness. This coach was of a pyramidical shape at top, hung lightly on four springs, had four wheels, canopy supported by eight gilt pillars, each having a lamp attached ; inside lined with scarlet embroidered velvet. The body of the coach was octagonal, a spiral gilt top above each pillar, and a largo one on the summit ; it only hold three peo})le — the Rajah, who sat in the chair placed in the centre, and two attendants, who stood always behind him. Two more elephants with houdahs were in our procession, carrying mu- sical instruments of a very curious shape. The music sounded something like the ^olian harp ; four more elephants with houdahs brought up the rear, some of them carrying four, six, and eight of our party. It was a sight that would have drawn millions of spectators in any other country. After pro- ceeding some distance through the grand arch leading into the Residency, wo halted, got out, some into their carriages, some into buggies, and others on horseback, and drove to the garden, where I saw little to speak of except one long avenue of black cyp' -. ' .'ees. hUh. — Lieutenant Chalmers, 22nd N.I., and myself started SERINGAPATAM. 351 at six o'clock in the morning to visit Seringapatam, hav- ing sent on a spare horse to carry mo homo, the distance being only ten miles. Wo travelled quietly through a lino fertile country ; about half-way there is a small wood called Wellesley Tope, where the Duke of W -m^j'ton had a brush with Tippoo. Seringapatam is a large ' '(>. jng fort built in an island in the Cauvery, which river washes its walls on both sides. Two 32-pounders mark the spot where, on the 4th of May, 1799, the storming party forded the river on the right bank, opposite the breach which was made at the extreme end of the Fort where the river divides. I passed up and down tlio breach, where twenty-two officers were killed and forty-fivo wounded. The walls at that point were built of brick, and the mark of cannon-shot was conspicuous in a hundred places. I saw the spot where Tippoo first fell ; he was afterwards put to death by a greuadier in the Water-gate. The fort is about two and a half miles in circumference and one milo long ; it was very strong at one period, but it is now going to decay ; there was only one battalion of Local Native Infantry and four or five officers in the cantonment, which was a few miles from the Fort at the French liocks. Lieutenant-Colonel Cullum, of the Artillery, was the only European in the place ; ho had charge of the gun-carriage manufactory, which was on a very extensive scale ; he had 700 men working in Tippoo's palace, Avliich once contained Hyder and all his host, and close to which the sultan fell when he was hastening (it is sup- posed) to put his women to death. I read Sir Arthur Welles- ley's order of the 6th IMay, 1 799, two days after the place fell. I then went up to the top of the minarets of the fine mosque, and had a most extensive view of the country, fort, river, &c. There aro 15i steps to the top. AV^hen we came down, the Mussulmans presented us witli flowers, grapes, plantains, and limes, which they had prepared for us spread out on a tray. We rode to the Lot Inxj, or lied Garden, to see the tomb of Ilyder Aly and his son Tip])oo. It liea in a rich valley about two miles from the Fort, and is a very handsome building. On our approach to it tho natives commenced with their horrid music, which at any time is sufficient to deafen a European; 352 Tiproo's tomb. however, tlicy did not advance further than the gate which leads down to the tomb. The gate, or entrance-way, is hand- so no. You pass through an archway leading down some steps into a garden, and, at the extreme end of a walk lined with tho black cypress-tree, you behold the tomb of the Sultan. It is g, very handsome building with a large dome, and on the top a crescent. There is a flight of steps loading up 'o tho base, and an open veranda all round supported by forty columns of very beautiful black polished granite ; three doors open into tho square space which cont'iins the ashes of Hyder, his wifo and son ; they all lie in a row, with a small pyramid over each, three and a half feet high and seven feet long ; they are each covered with embroidered cloths of different colours, and above a broad scarlet cloth is suspended as a canopy. On each sido of one of the doors there is an inscription on granite slabs fixed in the wall ; one is the following verse, which is inserted in the tomb of Hyder and Tippoo at Seringapatam, showing tho date of the death of the former to have been, in tho Mus- sulman era 1195, and that of Tippoo to have been in 1214. j^ '^/ J^ vvO ^^^3/ c/u jc^:>-j^ ^i-^ ^:j hyder's palace. 353 The tomb was built by order of Tippoo, and placed over his father in the space of one year. There is only one window, which is carved out of a long, square, solid slab of black polished granite. The workmanship is exquisite ; the doors were once very fine, being inlaid with ornamental ivory in fiowers, wreaths, &c. ; but were much destroyed by picking out the ivory when the Fort was taken by Lord Harris. On one side of the tomb there is a very handsome Mussulman place of worship, extremely neat and very clean ; the roof is supported by three rows of pillars. The people were very civil, and offered us fruits and flowers. My companion being an excellent Hindostance and Persian scholar, explained to me every thing my curiosity demanded. Of all other places of interment, those of the Mussulmen are the neatest, the most clean, and the handsomest. In England you seldom see anything but long grass or nettles in a gTave- yard. In India, in the Mussulman burying-ground, you see the w^iole space brightened like polished stone, except where a white, handsome, oblong hillock marks a grave, with a cypress-tree, a jasmine-bush, or some fragrant flowers growing around it. A plan of Mecca is hung upon the chapel wall, and to this point they always turn their faces in prayer. We went after this to see the ancient palace of Hyder. It was falhng into ruins v^-n^ f;' st, but showed the remains of much splendour ; from this we returned to Seringapatam, again through the populous town of Gangam, famous for the manu- facture of fine clothes and embroidery, and arrived at the Eosidoncy at five o'clock, where I was not very sorry to hear that the Ilajali had been too unwell to see us at the Durbar that evening ; for knocking about in the sun eleven hours very nearly knocked mo up. Next morning my friend Chalmers and self started at six o'clock to take a view of the country from a hill about three miles from the Residency, a thousand feet high. We rodo to the foot of it, leaving our horses below ; we ascended a '^'i[pa(j path, which led us to the top ; the diderenco of clinuite sur- prised us much, having found ourselves in a sharp cool brcOiO that we never felt in the low country. It was very refreshing 2 a 354 A PAGODA. and reminclcd us of home, sweet home. The difference in the thermometer was 10° on the very summit. There is a very hand- some fine house, where the Resident hves for three months in the hot season. There is a large pagoda on the top of this hill, where the natives formerly sacrificed human beings. They call the hill Shumundah, it being dedicated to a goddess of that name who was one of the wives of Shivu, or the destroyer. There is a superb view from the top of it; we saw the Neilghery Hills, Seringapatam, the winding Cauvery, and Tippoo^s tomb from it. There are several tanks of water on the top, but they would not permit us to enter the pagoda, the Brahmin priests being very busy receiving the offerings of the poor blinded people, it being a high day amongst them. We descended another way, where there was a flight of steps from top to bottom, and met numbers of people going up to make puglie and leave their offerings, which consisted of cocoa- nuts, ground and hard rice, oil, and fruits. Half-way down the hill there is a figure of a bull carved out of a solid rock ; it is in a lying posture, with the left fore-leg erect, as if about to rise. Women who are barren pass under this leg and make offerings to the bull, that their wishes may be gratified. I saw several people stop and worship it, on their way up to the pagoda, and give the man who had the charge of it a few pice. Its height is seventeen feet, length twenty-three feet, by fifteen broad, not including-the base. I went to the Durbar in the evening, and repeated the usual ceremony of making salaam and shaking hands with the Rajah ; his shake of the hand was usually merely a touch, but this evening I took the liberty of catching hold of his black fist and giving it a real shake ; he looked me full in the face, but said nothing. I returned and took my seat ; was presented with the usual quantity of betel-leaf, &c. The white wreath of flowers was put round my neck, a small bunch placed in my hand, sprinkled with sandal-wood oil, and then a little rose- water on my handkerjhief. Some of his clnldi'en were introduced this evening, and walked round to all the English ladies, to make their salaam. They were young, and very pretty, and their necks, arms, ears. THE DUSSOEAH FESTIVAL. 355 noses, and ancles, were loaded with jewels. They had immense large pearls on their small black noses, set in largo hoop (gold) rings. Their dresses wore superb, elegantly em- T)roiderod with long trains, and their eyes and eyebrows stained black as jet with some kind of dye. The square was sur- rounded this evening with a double strong netting, about nine feet high, and the cheetahs, or leopards, wore chained, otherwise they are so active that they would have made their way through the netting and perhaps killed some of the spectators. Three cheetahs wore chained in the centre. After six or eight pairs of men had fought, bled, and received their presents, two im- mense, strong, wooden, box- wheel cars were drawn up close to the netting, which was partly drawn aside and fastened tight, leaving one end of the cage facing the inside of the square. When this operation was concluxled, the doors were raised, and we beheld two large Bengal tigers looking fiercely and wildly amongst the immense concourse of people that crowded the square. I had been down below this time, outside the netting (it was about ten feet high), closely viewing these savage animals, whose mouths were open, show- ing all their hideous teeth, and yearning to have a grasp at somebody. The Bengal tigers kept close in their bnxes till the keeper threw in some burning cinders at the top, and when the box became filled with smoke one of them made a most terrific bound across the square, to get amongst his enemies, but the netting kept him safe. The other one now came out doubly savage, and being larger and stronger than any of the rest, I wished to survey him as closely as possible. He was on the opposite side of the square, and I walked down quietly to the netting, when he uttered a horrid roar, and at two bounds he was within half a foot of me, making the bamboos crash and mo think that I was in his clutches. The great spring he mtide, the force with which he came against the netting, and the savage fury of his nature, I thought more than sufficient to make a breach in the net, but it was slack and yielded to his mighty and furious rage ; my knees shook, I ran off* as fast as I could, the tiger roared, and the Rajali laughed at the adventure, pointing to mo (as I was afterwards 2 A 2 356 A DRUNKEN DONKEY. told), saying, '^ See, see, liow that officer is alarmed ! " When I found there was no danger I returned, and was horri- fied to see a poor little donlioy turned in amongst them. I ex- pected every moment they would have torn him to pieces, and was surprised they had not fought amongst themselves long before; but no, they did not even touch the poor donkey, who little knew the company he had joined, being made quite drunli before he entered the arena. The Bengal tigers roared and dashed and bounded at the people. It was really terrific to stand so close to them ; but, as the evening was closing, bows and arrows were distributed amongst the officers, and also double-barrelled guns, to put those creatures to death, accord- ing to custom. They were very soon full of darts, every arrow going at least an inch into their flesh. This made them doubly savage, and increased their efibrts to break through. It was a cruel, cruel sight to witness. Although I am no friend to the tiger, I did not, nor could I, thus torment them. I felt for them more than I can tell, and altogether I never beheld such barbarous cruelty. They had been all now wounded, and I thought the poor donkey would have escaped without loss of blood. But no, he was the greatest jackass, in every sense of the word, that I ever saw ; for by this time he was recovering from his stupor, and he went up to one of the tigers, who wished to iihun him, but Mr. Donkey was pot-valiant, and gave him a kick on the head, which insult the tiger refused to notice. But the donkey was not thus to retire from the field. He re- turned to the charge, and actually jumped upon the top of the tiger, who now seized him by the ear, and hit him a slap in the eye with his paw, holding him firmly to the ground for a con- siderable time, until the tiger was again struck with a dozen arrows, when he uttered a tremendous roar, and let him go. The donkey shook his head, and ran at him again, kicking him right and left, until the tiger seized him by one of the hind legs, and stopped his kicking for the present. Some more arrows were now fired into his body, which made him roar and let go his hold. The donkey was now lame and bleeding, but ho was determined to fight it out, and ran at his enemy again with fury, when he was seized exactly by the nose, and ^/i^/.tJ NOVEL TIGER HUNTING. 357 to the ground. About a dozen more arrows were again fired through the netting, at the risk of poor donkey, whom the tiger now gradually let go, from loss of blood, and who walked away quietly, very little the worse of his combat, seemingly quite satisfied at his many escapes, and I thought quite sober. Four or five barrels were now discharged at the tiger, which put him out of pain. The other four fellows were springing about the square, wild and savage, tearing the arrows out of their flesh with their teeth. Double-barrelled guns were now loaded with shot and discharged at the head of one of these beasts at a distance of three yards. He gave a tremendous roar, sprang off the ground four or five feet, and ran off, apparently little the worse. He met with a similar discharge at the other side of the square, and there was now a heavy fire upon them until they were all disabled, when the spearmen climbed over the netting and gave them the coup de (jrdce by running them through the body with a dozen of long spears. I think I never beheld a more barbarous spectacle before, or anything so cruel. The state elephant now came into the square, made his salaam, and retired ; then the standard- bearers and people of every caste, according to rank. The fireworks were set in motion, blue lights hoisted, the Rajab^s honours and titles resounded by a thousand voices, music playing, elephants roaring-, rams and buffaloes fighting, horses prancing, buffoons dancing — altogether I never heard such a row in my life, and was glad to get into a carriage^ and drive home. Saturday. — This was the last day of the Dussorah Festival, or ten days' annual feast. At four o'clock in the afternoon there were horses, carriages, buggies, palkees, and elephants at the door, to convey the guests to see his Highness review his troops. I chose an open carriage, and went on to the ground, which was rough and rugged, the road very bad, and partly covered with loose stones. The population was 150,000, and I'm sure one-half at least were there to witness this (fraud review, as they thought it. The Rajah was preceded by a band of the most discordant musicians I ever heard. He himself on an elephant, in a silver houdali, with 358 THE EAJAH^S REVIEW. two of his relatives, and his nobles and gentry in the rear. Two largo, brown, triangular flags were flying in a field oppo- site the road he travelled, and a little farther on the flag of Old England towered above all the procession. As soon as his Highness halted, a circle was made by his Rifle Corps to keep off the crowd, and two unfortunate tigers were in readiness for death ; they were brought there in the usual strong cage j chains had been fastened round their loins, and bound to strong wooden pillars in the ground, so that when the cart was drawn away the tiger might be drawn out of his prison. Bows and arrows being in readiness, the Ilajah generally fires the first shot. When they were pulled out of their cages they made some desperate efforts to escape. The Rajah's uncle and another of his friends pierced them with a score of arrows, and soon put them out of pain. Torches were now lighted, and his sable Highness went a little farther to review his troops. There were about 2,000 ragged foot soldiers, whose coats once were red, but at this time all in shreds and patches. They were drawn up in line, and presented arms the best way they could, no doubt ; then fired a salute by three divisions ; right division and left fired to the front, but the centre division went to the ri(jltt-ahout, and fired in the air; then fronted and loaded. This is a precaution lest the Rajah might have any enemies in the ranks, who might give him a sly-shot. This was the first review I had ever seen by torchlight, and I was glad to get off the ground as soon as possible. We dined at seven o'clock as usual, and went to the Durbar after dinner, being the last night. We found his Highness this evening in a long, narrow, low gallery in the interior of the palace, facing the inside of the court-square, where his state elephant stood, with all his trappings. Music playing ; his fine English horses saddled ; his standards arranged on each side of the square — they were many in number, and of different shapes i^nd sizes, all either gilt or plated. People shouting out to his praise. The smell of oil lamps, confined air, tobacco, and betel, were suffocating. Wo went upstairs, and being introduced in the old way by the Resident, sat down. His A DURBAR. 359 nobles sat squat, like frogs, on the floor, along the wall. His Highness sat on a silver couch, covered with embroidered velvet cushions ; and when we English people had been all introduced, his nobles advanced one by one with their presents, and each offered a rupee laid upon a neat red cloth, presenting it in the most submissive way with both hands. He returned their acknowledgments more or less, I suppose, according to their rank and services ; he made salaam with both hands to some respectable old men, while others he scarcely noticed ; then he took each offering with his right hand, and gave it to a person who stood behind him, who collected the whole sum in this way ; but what was done with it afterwards I cannot say. Our ladies were now informed that the Ranee would see them, and they went off to another part of the palace where no mail ever entered but his Highness and his eunuchs. Mrs. B., who was one of the party, told me that the Ranee was a good- looking, stout woman, but not handsome. She sat on a kind of throne wit] her maids of honour, one of whom was very pretty and vciy graceful, and had a lovely figure ; they spoke wery little, and, after sitting a short time, each lady received a present of two handsome shawls, which were put over their shoulders, and they made their salaam and retired. The Rajah in the mean time made his presents ; ho put a diamond orna- ment of large size with a pearl chain round the neck of Mr. Casmajor, the Resident, and shawls were distributed to many other people of our party, which was a great mockery, for they were not allowed to keep them ; doctors and doctors' wives were the only people allowed to retain them. The Resi- dent presented the Rajah with a diamond star and pearl chain, also an ornament of pearl for his turban, and an English horse ; altogether valued at 3,000 pagodas. He kept it on his neck a few seconds, took it off, and gave it to his treasurer, who received his minor presents, and who always stood behind him. Four very handsome boys sat near him, superbly dressed — his son;^ in-law, betrothed to his four only daughters. He has only two sons and no legitimate children ; he has six wives, and concubines innumerable. I got my usual present of hetel- 1 eaves, sandal-wood, oil, and the white wreath of stinking m' IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) 11.25 UIM 12.5 ■ 30 ■'^" ■■■ ^ Hi 12.0 2.2 ^ U 11 1.6