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Les diegrammas suivants ilhistrent la mithode. 1 2 3 4 5 6 MMMOOfV MOUfnON TKT CHART (ANSI and SO TfSr CHAtT No. 3) A />PPUEU M/GE Inc 1653 Easl Main Street Rochester. Ne» York 14t0t USA (716) *e2 - 0300 - Phorw KqsiMtdlma Jomuui or Om>imt,VA XII. Il» t, Fih ww y M«wK i««4 CUSPATE FORELANDS ALONG THE BAY OF QUINTE ALFRED W. G. WILSON HunsD AT ns tmnrautry or ancAso nunt CUSPATE FORELANDS ALONG THE BAY OF QUINTE. TAUJC 09 coimim. iMTKOOOCnOM— Ths BAT 07 {^nUTB. MOVBMKNTS 0» TM WATBSS W W« BAt waves, aad the loiqfshore curreats wh^ are associated with them. The size of the material transported and the rate at which it travels must ne -arily de] .vl upon the strength of the waves ; these in turn depe. d upon wmd velocity, aad, in the Bay of Quinte, upon wind direction. Observations which bavi» extended over a considerable period have shown that resultant effective transportation along the shores of the Great Lakes depends in part upon the direction of the most prevalent winds, ia part upon the length of the str^h %f <^}en water across which the acting wind has come. The larger storms usually determine the resultant direction of transportation. Now, in the case of the Bay of Quinte, the steep sides of the valley in which the waters of the bay lie so giddes and OMfrda the winds 113 ALFRED W. G. Wil^ON that we find that the efficient wave and wave-current work in shore transportation is done by those winds whose direction con- forms nearly with the axial direction of the several sections of the bay. The narrow n ess of the bay, coupled with the depth of the valley, is such that even violent storms blowing across it can do less efficient work than is done by the much gentler local breezes blowing up or down the bay. In this locality the prevailing direction of the wind during the summer is from the southwest ; but, in spite of this, it is found that, because of the considerations to be noted below, there is virtually no continuous transportation eastward except along parts of the lower portion below the Upper Gap. There seems rather to be a constant oscillation to and fro. Because of the shape of the bay and its position the directions from which efficient winds and their accompanying waves can come are the northeast and the southwest. The material which forms the forelands varies from fine sand in one example to large rock plates weighing over four pounds each. All the spits but one are built of coarse and fine gravel or shingle. In most cases the material is aloK»t all so coarse that its transportation must be attributed to the wave itself, rather than to the action of any longshore current during the intervals that the wave may have raised' it off the bottom, though no doubt these currents assist in that transportation to % small extent. It \z 'ijved in part by rolling along the bottom, but even some of the largest fragments are frequently lifted clear of the bottom and carried along with the wave. The .shape of the oUong or rhomboidal plates (rarely over an inch thick, and with an area on the flat side, varying from ten to thirty square inches) materially facilitates this mode of tran^rtation. THE POKBLAMDS AND BARS. I. Sand Spit below Bogarts dock. — ^This is a small spit which consists wholly of fine sands derived from the adjacent cliff cut in modified drift. The spit measures about 245 feet across the base and extends about 100 feet out from the shore line. The normal width of the beach betweea the cliff front and the water CVSPA TE FORMLANDS AT BAY OF QU/NTE 1 1 3 is about ten feet. In its present attitude the axis of the spit Sacliflies toward the southwest or slightly down the bay. A ref> erence to the accompanying sketch plan will show the present existing conditions. There is a central triangular terrace at wat«r level, marshy, but filling with sand which drifts in or is washed in by rains or waves. Border!^ this are two distinct sand ridges rising about 2 feet above water-level. The outer ridge has impended a small amount of water between itself and the inner ridge. A third ridge has been b^n on the outside of these two. Referring to the general map, it will be seen that effective Fia ».— Snail taad tfilL Mow BogMft dock, Jiuw i, 1903. transportation must always be by winds blowing nearly parallel to tite axu of die middle section of the bay. The present shme line, both above and below, is certainly just as* irr^pilar as it is here — it would be described as slightly wavy. There is no stream discharging near here, and there is no evidence of a local lan^p havif^ modified the shore line in such a way as to cause the beginning of the building of the spit at this point. In the field it was at first very difficult to see in this case why it should have happened to be formed here and not at a half-dozen other a^wrently similar places. It happens, however, that there it a very slight, though noticeable, difference in the curvature of the shore line at th!s place, and it seems as if, under certain special conditions of wind-action from the east of north, the longshore wave and wave eurrests first started to Iraild a terrace uid later a bar outward from the slight salient in the shore line of this point, and that the same waves gradually turned the end of this free bar as it reached deeper water, giving it its curved form, and finally tying it on to the shore i^n. This bar was subaequeatly 114 ALFRED W. G. WILSON modified and its curves readjusted by waves coining up the bay. At a later period the second bar was built outside the first, under a similar succession of conditions, the waves most actively con- cerned in its construction coming from the southwest. The third portion was in part built during the summer of 1903, under the action of a series of storms from the northeast. During the process of its building the v aves cut into the earlier bars on the north side, producing the concave curve in the shore line at this point, and depositing the eroded material nearer the apex of the spit on the far side of the axis of the initial form, pro- ducing the asymmetrical form shown in the plan. If their action continued long enough under the conditions existing at the time the observations were made, the bars would be extended in a very much larger loop and would inclose a very much larger lagoon. The rounding of the end of thq spit and the shaping of the convex and concave cur\'es on the south side were actually done by the same set of waves which brought the material to form the outer cap of the spit. In this, as in several other cases, even where the material was coarse gravel, the apex of the spit lies so far off-shore that waves curving obliquely toward it from either direction will only have their shoreward ends retarded as they advance obliquely on the shore. The off-shore portions advance in the deeper water virtually 4inretarded, and thus the wave front is rapidly curved around the end of the spit. Mate- rial moved along a side of the spit toward the end, when dis- charged at the apex, will often be carried around the end by the more vigorous unretarded portion of the same or the next following wave to that which accomplished its final discharge at the point. This sand spit seems to be rather an evanescent than a perma- nent feature of the shore. The present spit is, from the charac- ter and size of the sedges growing in the lagoon area, inferred to be several years old, probably not more than five. 2. Grand bars on Picton Bay. — On the west side of Picton Bay, nearly opposite the west end of the third section of the Bay of Quinte, are two peculiar ban forming two distinct loops, convex outward, joining the shore by two short concave curv«a of adjust- CVSPATE FORELANDS AT BAY OF QVrNTE II5 ment. The beach between the cliff-foot and the water is here quite narrow, usually less than 6 feet in width. Above and below the two -loop bars in question the shore line is sligfaUy sinuous, but the beach is of very uniform width. Between the two bars there is a stretch of 78 feet where there is not enough beach gravel to cover the bed-rock, and the cliff rises directly from the s Fio. 3. water, here about a foot in depth at the shore line. The south loop is 220 fe^t in length, and the north one 280 feet. The north loop holds a long, narrow little pond between it and the old shore. The low area between the south bar and the old shore was above present water level, and was nearly filled with gravel. The sudden departure from the normal conditions along this shore to form these bars is difficult of explanation. In the pres- Fio. 4.— ForeUnd mm AUtoon't doek, M«y aa, 1903. ent instance it is possible that a small landslip from the cliff may have temporarily changed the shore line in such a way as to necessitate readjustment by the waves. On the other hand, they may have been formed under the action of the waves alone on the normal shore line, under conditions referred to below in a general discussion of the origin of the forms here described. In thb latter <»se they represent initial stages of a form which reaches its perfection in the V terrace and V bar. 3. Terrace and bar near Allison's wharf.— On the north shmv of the eastern section of the bay at Allison's dock, there is a sea- Il6 ALFRED W. G. WILSON cUff 25 feet in height, cut in till. To the east the cliff becomei much lower. About half a mile east of the wharf occur* one of the most perfect examples of the V-bars. The sea-cHff of till here has a height a little under 5 feet. There is a narrow beach about 20 feet in width. The front of the cliff behind the fore- land is more subdued than elsewhere ; it is graded, and is covered with sod. The bars which inclose a triangular lagoon arc built of gravel and sand. The material of the east arm is chiefly a coarse gravel ; that of the west is gravel with a much larger per- centage of finer material and some sand. On the inner side there is a small amount of clayey soil which has gradually been blown or washed into the lagoon. The bars are of at least three periods of formation. The oldest rises 3.2 feet above water level the next oldest 4 feet, and the present one about 3 feet. The older beaches have been in part cut off by the newer, as shown in the plan. The inclosed lagoon is triangular in outline, with rounded corners. The base on the old shore measures about 210 feet, the apical distance along the axis is about 13s feet. The depth of water is about 18 inches, it is more or less grown over with water plants and grasses. The east arm of the triangle measures 144 feet ; the west. 165. The apex of the spit is rounded tad the nearly straight sides join the shores with short concave curves of adjustment. The east arm of the bar is much higher and wider than the west arm, and its outer eud has several times been truncated by stronger storms from the east. The present form of the spit is thought to be due to the activity of the waves, chiefly from the east. The western arm has been straightened and smoothed off at frequent intervals by the less violent, but more consUnt waves from the southwest. The bottom on which the terrace rests here slopes rapidly downward under the bay. the 100-foot contour lying less than a quarter of a mile off shore. A reference to the general map shows that this spit is located very near one of the most salient points of the north of this section of the bay. On the ground its actual location is about a quarter of a mile to the east of this point, and hence it is sheltered by the point from the storms which blow directly CUSPA TE FORELANDS AT RAY OF QU/NTE 1 1 7 down the bay from the southwest. Wav-s which travel up the bay from the east would apparently have their maximum effect on the beach at this point. A little farther east there is another minor point, too small to show on the plan Beyond this toward the large point (a drumlin) shown on'the plan, about a mile and a quarter east of Allison's -vharf, the shore debris is very much ciMrser. Both to the west and east the rawness of the shore cliffs and the coarser beach debris show that there is much more active erosion going on there than in the immediate vicinity of the spit. Hie hifereQe sfit. — About a mtlr west of Prinyer Cove there is a slight f alient on the shore line which is tipped by a snudl V terrace and rimming bars inclosing a triangular lagoon. The axis of the spit lies nearly at right angles to the trend of the shore Uoe. The spit is 97$ feet to length and measures abo :t 300 feet across the base. The sides are nearly symmetrical, and the inclosing bars are built of gravel. The inclosed iagoon is in part filled t,p with rank marsh vegetation ; near the edges are some large trees. The apex of the spit shows the lines of succes- sive additions on alternate sides. Inside the present beach only one of the earlier beaches is well preserved. This has teeo in part Il8 ALFRED W. G. WILSON cut into during the readjustment of curves when the present beach was built. The land behind the shore is overlaid by a thin sheet of till. It slopes gently bayward, and the inner margin of the lagoon gradually merges into the mainland. Both on the east and west there is a low cliff above the beach having a height of about 2 feet. The cliff and beach that must have exiMed behind the lagoon have long since disappeared. The grave! bars on the sides rise about 3 feet above water level. That cn the east is a little larger, and consists of coarser material than the one on the west. Almost all the gravel composing the ban is derived from the adjacent bed-rock— a nodular thaly limestone of Trenton age. 5. Pleasant Point This is the largest and the most inter- esting of all the forelands on the bay. The general form of the foreland is shown by the accompanying plan. The material of which it is built is almost wholly gravel. The eastern side con- sists of very coarse shingle containing numerous flat plates of all sizes up to three or four pounds in weight. The west arm, on the other hand, consists «ihiefly of smaller rounded pebbles, rarely over an inch in diameter, and there is also a certain amount of fine gravel and sand. To the west of the foreland there is a shore cliff about 20 feet in height, of which at least the upper 5 feet are glacial till. The base of the cliff is shaly limestone, and the width of the normal beach is between 6 and 10 feet. It is strewn with coarse cobbles, there being very little fine material such as is found on the arm of the spit a few yards away. The old cliff runs behind the spit ; twice it changes its c irection, recording significant changes in the growth of the spit. Its height at the base of the eastern arm is only about 5 feet. It continues as a low bluff for some distance to the southeast. The drift varies in thickness, but near the sj^t its thickness is about 2 feet. The original foreland so far as it can be traced, lay a little farther to the west than the present one, and was very simil«r in shape and sixe to that near Prinyer Cove. At the present time there are seven distinct beaches. Counting east -from the inner triangular lagoon, the first three of the beach mounds or ridges each CUSPATV FOKELANDS AT BAY OF OVINTB rise only about a foot above present water level. They are nearly pBrellel, and between then we find two loi^, mrrow ponda. Tlie fourth beach, the largest and highest of the aeries, extends nearly the whole length of the spit. The next two are also of consider- able height and breadth, and are best preserved near the outer end. In the readjustment of the curvet during the formation of 7io. 6.— Sketch |dMi of Pleasant Pmnt Foielaiid, May aj, 1903. the seventh or modern beach the waves have cut through the sixth and fifth, and are now acting on the fourth near its shore end. On the west side traces of only one ancient beach could be fmmd between the present modern batch and the triangnhur lagoon. It is assumed, in the counting, that this is the correlative of some one or more of the first six of the earlier beaches found on the east side. Both the beaches on the west side cut across the ei^ of the first three of the earlier batches, and the modem one cuts across the ends of the other three as well. The fourth beach on the east, the highest and broadest }f the series, rises lao ALFRED m G. WILSON about 6 feet above present water level, or at least 8 feet above the bottom of the lagoon. The beach on the west is only abottt 2 feet high, except near the apex of the spit. A reference to the general map will show that immediately to the east of the point we have a gap— the Upper Gap— in the side of the Bay of Qainte valley, through which storm waves from the open lake cart have access to the bay. The waves which will have most effect on the shore are those coming from a little to the east of south, although the waves of a storm from the east or south will also be capable of effective work. On the Fig. 7.- Sketch plan of about 100 feet of the other hand, the spit is •pex of the Pleasant Point spil, May at, 1903, „„„ „ . . riumiBgthedaf,iBgbe«Arid^«Kl,i,ir exposed on the west only to waves traveling up the bay before a wind having a very limited distance in which to act. Hence we find - that the larger waves from the open lake have been steadily carrying material around the point, and depositing it in the slfxk, but very deep, water behind. The point of the sp.'^ is now out as far as the 70-foot contour. The much larger size of these waves has been the important fac- tor in determining the coarseness of the material of the eastern part of the spit, in piling it so high, in determining the'amount which has been brought here, and in causing the spit to travel slowly eastward. The material which forms the west arm is in part derived from that brought by the bigg-r waves to the east side and subsequently carried around the point, partly by the same system of waves which brought it, but chiefly by the waves coming up the bay from the northeast at other times. Some of it is brought from the shores to the west. One record of the changes which take place at the apex of the beach under the action of CUSPATB POKBLANDS AT BAY OF QUINTE 131 different Btorms is shown in the accompanying sketch. Material it transported very rapidly along the eastern side of the beach, in spite of its coarseness. Along the west the travel seems to be much slower because of the relatively small siae of the waves. 100' This spit must be very old. Near the outer end of the fourth beach, the highest of the series, is an oak tree sixteen inches in diameter. This beach and the earlier ones are covered with a thick grcwth of lai^ cedars. 6. Fish Point spit. — ^I'his spit is not so large nor so well developed as the oUiers. The reasons for this are twofold: first, on the east the source from which material may be drawn is only about half a mile of beach, .nd on the west the distance is mrt mudi over two miles; in the second place, there is almost no drift cover, and the rocks here seem to be a little less shaly than elsewhere, consequently the supply of gravel is not so abundant. The gravel whidi occun on the beaches on either side of the point is very coarse, many of the rounded pebbles exceeding two inches in the longest diameter. Foreland, M«y 24, 1903 and there are numerous burge plates up to ten pounds in weight. The gnivel at the wpx is soMller than elsewhere, that on the east Fig. 8.— Fish Point AIFXSD m G. WILSON side probably a little coMwr than that on the west. The ipit. as a whole, resembles a cap which has been built by the gravelf on the end of a minor salient of the mainland by the waves when readjusting the shore curves. The main portion of the spit con- litts of a large irregular or wavy topped terrace of eoane gravel, built out in front of the mainland. For the most part the earlier beaches have lost their individual identity. At the outer margin several of the later ones are still persistent, inclosing shallow lagoons. The spit was particularly interesting as it exhibited several features, which are described in detail because it is thought that their mode of formation is an index of the way in which the large V bars and V terraces were built up. The Mstem side of the spit at the water line had a serrate margin, there being ten dis- tinct, well-marked minor cusps, which for convenience in descrip- tion may be called cusplets. Each of these had a long, gently curving shore line on the side toward the advancing waves. The free end of the cusplet was joined to the main shore by a short, abrupt, concave curve. Sometimes the free end of the cusplet was drawn out into a sharp, well-developed point. The best- formed cusplets had a sharp mediae ridge extending down the axis, and often prolonged as an apical spine at the free end. The outer slope, toward the water, was very steep, at first almost a straight line, and then gradually curving around to the normal subaqueous beach cui ve. The iui. r slope was much flatter. The curve of the shore line t)f the individual cusplets was approxi- mately adjusted to the curve cf advance of the front of the waves which were building and shaping them (see Fig. 9). The finer gravel lay on the longer back slopes, the coarser iragments, often ^mall plates rather than rounded pebbles, were concentrated on the steeper frontal slopes. These serrations on the side of the spit seem to owe their origin to the attempt of the waves of a particular series of storms, coming from a nearly constant direction, to readjust the curvature of the shore line to the curvatures of their own fronts. Off shc.'e the waters are very deep, and the shore line of the bay is yet in a very young stage of its development; consequenUy CUSPATE /rOMMLANDS AT MAY OF gt^MTf 12$ th« waves traveling obliquely toward the shore are not symmet- ricallv aad tjatetnatirally reUrded. The wave docs not advance on the shore parallel to its front but comes up obliquely (see Fig. 9). The result is that the gravel was moved obliquely up the itlope of the beach, and then obliquely downward with the rettir.. of the wave, but always with a reniltMit in a diraetloa ViO. 9«— Skowiag tke raUUkm nf the w«ve-{nmt« to the lemla oMnia o{ the flMtaidtof rU Pdai FMnd. parallel to the shore. During the period of t^Mcrvation the dibris moved along the long curve of the cusplets very rapidly, and then, when discharged into the deepest water at the free end, would either fall at once to the bottom, or might happen to reach the end just in time to be carried across the intervening space by the rush of the less retarded part of the wave which had not yet reached shore. Material would thus be rolled along the long slope by the Invaking edge of the wave, but, when discharged at the free end, it was crftca bodUy earried several feet part the 134 ALFKMH m a. WILSON tpine of the cusplet and up to Um maia bncb by Um mom pow* erful, less retarded portion of the waves — there to be rolled slowly or rapidly along the long slope of the next cusplet, where the process was repeated. The site of the cusplet iasome cases seemed to be inciMsif, but several seemed to have reached a maximum stage. Given a constant material, the limit of size seems to depend upon the stM of the waves uid their periodicity. These little cusps are formed during the period of a siagle storm, ur scries of storms, when the waves advance in an oblique direction on a previously evenly curved shore. Their forma- tion and their symmetrical arrangement seem to be due to two factors. In the first place, very frequently the undertow is able to carry material down the slope of the beach a little farther than the front of the wave can move it up, within certain limits. G>aseqitently, although some of the material moved up the slope by the front of the wave lodges, some of it moves down wftk the undertow, and a small percentage of this latter material may move out beyond the zone at which the next oncoming waves can move it up the beach. Hence there will be a slow but gradual accumulation just beyond this line, which in tfane will even modify the direction of the long shore currents. A second and more imp^.tant iactor in the production of these '^m^ns along the shore is the development of nodal lines along lich material tends to accumulate. Where the waves are vancing at an angle to the shore there will be a number of waves breaking at the same time at different points along the shore. As the spacing of the waves is nearly uQiform, if the shore line were perfectly straight, these points of simuitaneoas wave-breaking would be equidistant from one another. On a curved shore the spacing will be systematic, but the distances between breaking points will not necessarily be equal. Now, the undertow which flows out from one wave as it breaks will inter- fere with the advance of the next following wave, if it meets that wave on that part of the shore where the orbital motion is nearly a straight line up the beadu This happens very frequently where part of a «nve is retarded by a ca^^ while the ether CVSPATM POMMLANDS AT BAY OF QU/NTM Itg pMt puM* tb« frwMd widi littie ra&rdttion. Hm rasvit will be a tendency for the material moving down the slope witk th« undertow, and up the slope with the advancing wave, to be dropped at a symmetrically arranged series of poinU. The obliquely moving waves ete move d the distance between the crests of the waves. The building of the cusplets further modifies the form of the shore Ilae, the slope of the bottom, the direction of the advance of the wavrs, and the diiectioa of the longshore currents; but with waves of constant size an equilibrium will be established, at which time the cusplets will have their maximum sise. If the. waves are irregular, cusps may not be formed at '". The same waves which bad built the serrate mar^n along the eastern side of this foreland had built a small flying spit at the apex. Between the free end of this small flying spit and the main beach a very small A-shaped point was also gradually built up. The wavrs coming from the east in the direction indi* cated by the arrow g. lo) swung around the point, giving it the form shown in . figure. The fronts of the waves assumed theform 6iiiM are Aamu hf the dotted Ifaics in the fifure. 126 ALFRED W. G. WILSON Material which had rounded the extreme tip of the flying spit was actually carried across the narrow water space between the flying spit and the little conical point being deposited on the outside of \ \ Fig. 10.— Sketch plan of the apex of Fish Poiat Foreland, May 34, 1903. CUSPA TE FORELANDS AT BAY OF QUINTE 1 37 the cone. As each wave came in, the water in tiie small lagoon rose and fell. The oatflowing current seemed to be the control which shaped the inner curves of the cone. A little farther to the west the same waves were increasing the size, rounding the ends, and otherwise modifying the two larger cusplets ( Fig. 11), which, Fig. II.— Two well developed cuspleU in the foreground, the apex of the small loop ^i^pMnte the bMkgioMid. Mbtth iid« of Ptobit Fofrimd. ju(%ing from their initial forms, had evidently been built some time before by a storm Mowing from the west. 7. Amherst bar. — Waves rolling into the bay through the lower gap from Lake Ontario have built a long gravel bar off the east end of Amherst Island. This bar runs nearly north from the end of the island and is nearly two miles in length. Most of it is submerged, but near the island a portion rises as a sharp ridge several feet above water level. The eastern end of Amherst Island is low, and the shore is rocky. Most of the gravel Imrming the bur has been moved along the south shore of 128 ALFRED W. G. W/LSON the island by southwest storms off Lake Ontario. The portion of the bar that is above water level has a peculiar curved form, due to the many complex modifications which such a bar may undergo under the influence of minor storms. Some of these are well shown near the free end of that portion of the bar which rises above water level. On the south side of the free end we find .ivo large, well-developed, south- pointing cui^ps, bounded by curves which are concave lakeward. These cusps seem to owe this form to the action of waves advancing from the southeast and the southwest at different times. 8. Calf Island loop bar. — Altiiough not in any way associated with the Hay of Quinte, it seems desirable to include in these descriptions a reference to the loop bar off the east end of Calf Island. The island lies about four miles northwest of Stony Point, and half a mile to the west of Stony Island. Storm waves blowing down the lake naturally divide at the island and pass on either side of it. Coarse gravel derived from the limestone rock, by which the main island is underlaid, has been piled in two high ridges, one leading off from either side of the island. The two unite in a rather sharp point about 350 yards from the east end of the rocky part of the island. The crests of the bars are about 9 feet above water level, and between them is a deep, narrow pond. The south bar is about 60 feet wide, and has equal slopes on either side ; the north bar is a little wider and more irregular. Si nilar forms are to be looked for off the northeast ends of several of the other rocky islands in this part of the lake. Off the east end of Grenadier Island two long flying spits have formed, inclosing between them a shallow bay known as Basin Harbor. This bay is gradually filling up. The free ends of the two spits are curving toward each oth( r, ai.d, given time enough, we would expect them to unite. In the nit:antime, the inclosed basin will be partly filled by sand eithei' washed in by the waves or blown in from the bars. The outer slope of the bars will still have the steep gradients of such forms ; their height will depend upon the depth of the adjacent water. In time there will thus be formed off Grenadier Island a huge terrace, with running CVSPA T£ 'JFOXELANDS AT BAY OF QUINTE 1 29 bars, which in form will approximate in shape to the typical V- terrace and V-tNU*. THE ORIOIN OF THE V-TBRRACE AND V-BAR. Four of the forms which have been described in the preceding paragraphs agree very closely, both in form and location, with Gilbert's description of the type examples in Lake Bonneville.' In his descriptions of the type examples Gilbert notes that: They are built against coasts of even outline, usually but not always, upon slight nlientt, and they occur most frequently in the long narrow arms of old lakes. In discussing the origin of the form he states : In some cases the two margins appear to have been determined by currents approaching the terrace (doubtless at different times) from opposite direc- tions ; and then the terrace margins are concave out- ward, and their confluence is prolonged in a more or less irregular point. In most cases, however, the shore drift appears to have been carried by one cur- rrat from the mainland along one margin of the ter- race to the apex, and by another current along the remaining side of the terrace back to the mainland. The contours are then eidier straight or ccmvex. The bars which border the terraces he attrib- utes to a later period during a slight deepen- j.-,,. sketch plan ing of the waters of the lake, after the ter- of about 500 yards at the races had attained their full size. While the ^"^^ °' portion of lake stood at the higher level, the linear Amherst Bm above w«er LI . .. May 35, 1003. embankments were built at the outer mar- Directkm of wave advance gms. ■bowB by the anow. The author's studies of the forelands in the Bay of Quinte lead him to suggest the following hypothesis as to the mode of origin of the forms here described. In the first place, it must be noted that the level of the water in the bay varies ■ U. S. OMiogka} Swvey, Fm Ammmti Jtt^ 1M3-84, p. 98. ALFRED W. G. WILSON considerably with the seasons, being a little higher in late spring or early summer than at any other time. The level of Lake Ontario also changes considerably during a season. Both of these factors may have some bearing on the formation of the terraces and bars. The changes in level due to the lai^^ seiche waves must occasionally be even greater than these seasonal changes. None of the forms show any evidence which could be interpreted as being due to these seasonal or periodical changes in level. In a previous paragraph a detailed description was given of the process by which small cusps were produced along a shore. Under the continued action of waves of moderate amplitude the dimensions of these small forms would gradually increase, and eventually they would reach a size which could easily control the shore currents and wave direction of even moderate storms. In the present instance the bay is completely frozen over from about the middle of November until the first of May. During the season of open water the only effective storms are those which chance to be blowing up or down the bay. To be effec- tive, they must have a constant direction, for a considerable inteival of time. Hence, while moderate breezes which generate small waves are frequent, violent storms which can modify the work of all previous lighter winds and waves are rare. When they do come, their first work would be to readjust the shore curves developed during the previous interval. The chances that they would preserve a suitable direction long enough to t ace the work of the previous, more or less contsant, but less energetic, storms are very slight. The construction of the small triangular terrace may in part be attributed to the leveling action of some such storms as these. In all observed cases, although the terrace under the triangular lagoon had a slight slope outward, its slope was not so great as that of the adjacent shore a little distance on either side of the sand spit ; from which it is inferred that there had been some filling. Whether such a process could produce a very much larger terrace than those noted is uncertain. In other cases the portion of the terrace included between the bars may have bem partly filled in by the CUSFA TE FOJl£LA/ia)S AT MA V OF QVtNTE 1 3 1 w»ww themselvet after the formation of the bars. Such a ter- race is in course of conitruction off the east end of Grenadier Island. A similar process is causing a great deal of inconven- ience at several harbors along the north shore of Lake Ontario, wiiere two artificially constmcted bars in the shape of piers inclose a harbor which periodically fills with sand that has to be removed by dredging. In some cases the inner lagoon may have been filled after the bars were formed, by ordinary processes of transportation which tend to fill hollows and lessen the grade of steep slopes. The size of the terrace would also depend upon 'he size of the water body, and upon the character of the material. The tendency will always be for the waves bringing the supplies of material to heap this up in the form of a bar. In the later stages, when the accumulation has become considerable, the Urger storms would not be able to efface these bars, though they will reshape them and pile the material higher on the outer mar- gin. On the outer side of a bar, below water level, the material has a gentle slope to below wave base. Beyond this the inclina- Uon of the front slope will be the angle of repose for material of the kind. In the case of all the forms on the Bay of Quinte. where the water drained off it would be found that the forelands would have steep frontal slopes, with an elevation in several cases of about 60 feet. The top would be a nearly fiat terrace, with gently curved edges, and rising above it at a little distance from the margin would be the sharply defined rimming bar. In the smaller examples the same waves which build the one side of the foreland carry material around the end of the spit and distribute it for a shorter or longer distance, according to their size, on the other side. On some occasions the same waves may shape both sides at the same time, but usually it is found that the adjacent sides are shaped alternately. In some cases the greater proportion of the material comes from one side, and its redistribution on the opposite side of the spit is effected by other waves from a different direction and at another time. In the case of Point Pleasant spit it seems to be slowly shifting east- ward, as material brought from the southeast accumulates on ALFRED W. G. WtLSOH tbat ti