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Les diagremmes suivants illustrent la mAthode. 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 Akohso Rock.— Macklnjic. "- < i \\ i^j'*'. " I 7 '<- I I ;;<^ >h n .i - THE GREAT LAKES, OB INLAND SEAS OF AMERICA; BMBBAOINO ▲ rULL DBSCUFTION or LAKES SUPEIUOR, HURON, MICHIGAN, ERIE, KW ONTARIO; .- BIVBES ST. MAET, ST. CLAIR, DETROIT, NIAGARA, AND ST. LAWBBNOB: LAKE WINNIPEG, ETC.: /* ,V'*'= TOOXTHZS WITH TIU . 1 COMMERCE OF THE LAKES, '■jft-^L- '■ /"t ""■^^f^im.-ii ■,»j.'i .■ ■<_£- /•*-3^_-i^ TRIPS THROUGH THE LAKES: s%if»< GIYINO ▲ DESCRIPTION OF CITIES, TOWNS, BTO. POBMIKO ALTOOXTHBB < '» .■ ' I l l »«». M i< ^i li(j l ii V II II *.^mM li Complete ^uibe FOB THS PLEASURE TRAVELLER AND KMiaBANT. 'T/ -.A.^.'-A.^V'-: Wii^ iSLvi^ anil BSmbtlltclmtntB. .'«.-*>..-^. *■•■•■ ."t '. COMPILED BY J. DISTUENELL, AUTHOB or TIU ** PCOTVBBt^CB T0UBI8T,'" BTa ■•<*', • Sr .nAiH^. , --«*'.',' *■ ^'^. • ,^;..V ..{-t^^-r ... ..*^/...-. NEW YORK: PX7BI:jISSIGI> by CHEA^RI^SS SCRrBKlSR* NO. 124r GRAND STREET, •<. ^^<^» H. M - a Ik 1 rt r I 811^ ( M % m ■:45^»*'tf!,'t^*iJ ^ ^^f:>^.., ., , V ''I 4 t^ i .1 i'r mi-i:.-.mj yU-H?!! I Entered according to Act of Oongress, in the year 1863, by JOHJSJ DISTURNlLL, In the Clerk*8 OfBoe of the District Court of the United States for the Southern DistrictofN^wTork."^ * * i^^i#i^ V ■^^"t07 7-'fr:/' vv - •'*ti»4si^'i"'i 17 dl ^ /. ;» 7- ■■■i'i:. ■ Kl^*'! PREFACE. • mam} W }tis«(l9.G^i "(^iriitf;'^' In presenting to the Pablio the present volame, entitled '^ The Gbbat LAKESt or ' Inland Sbas' of America,*' embracing the Magnitude of the Lakes — Commerce of the Lakes — ^Trip through the Lakes — ^Route from Lake Superior to Lake Winnipeg — ^Tables of Distances, etc., together with a Description of Niagara Falls and the St. Lawrence River, the Compiler wishes to return his sincere thanks for the liberal patronage and the matiy kind favors received from those who have doubly assisted him, by contributing reliable and useful information in regard to the many interesting localities in which the Great Valley of the Lakes and of the St* Lawrence abounds, affording altogether many new and interest- ing facts of great importance to the Tourist, who may wish to visit the Inland Seas of America for health or pleasure; the tour being one of the most healthy, picturasque, and wonderful — when viewed as a whole, from Lake Winnipeg to .Lake Superior, and thence to the Gulf of St. Lawrence — on the fiice of the globe. i?f*5 f*s .ry^^-^rr^^ ^•iikl '« » In the arrangement and compilation of this work every attempt has been made to render the information it contains concise and truthful. The Magnitude and also the Commerce of the Lakes are themes of great interest, they now being whitened by a large fleet of sail-vessels, in ad- dition to the swift steamers and propellers which plough the waters of these Great Lakes, transporting annually large numbers of passengers, and an immense amount of agricultural and mineral products, to and from the different ports. iv PRKFACB. Lake Superior, the Ultima Thule of many travellers, can now be easily reached by lines of steamers starting from Cleveland and Detroit, running through Lake Huron and the St. Mary's River ; or from Chi- cago and Milwaukee, passing through Lake Michigan and the Straits of Mackinac. All these routes are fully described, in connection with the CoUingwood Route, and Route to Green Bay ; affording altogether ample and cheap opportunities to visit every portion of the Upper Lakes and their adjacent shores. fi«*i^''~''''^<='***'**^'^"'*"»^^^^^^ ^,w>WV«JiM The most noted places of Resort are Mackinac, Saut Ste. Mario, Muni- sing, near the Pictured Rocks, Marquette, Houghton, Copper Harbor, Ontonagon, Bayfield, and Superior City. If to these should be added a Trip to the North Shore of Canada, visiting Michipicoten Island, Fort William, and other interesting localities — passing Isle Royale, attached to the State of Michigan — the intelligent Tourist would see new wonders of almost indescribable interest, while inhaling the pure atmosphere of this whole region of Lake Country. Among the Mineral Regions may be found objects of interest sufficient to induce the tourist to spend some weeks or months in exploration, hunting, and fishing ; and i^ added to this, should be included a journey to the Upper Mississippi Valley, or Lake Winnipeg, an entire season could be profitably employed, r ^\ For a fUll description of the Lower St. Lawrence, Lake Champlain, Saguenay River, etc., the Traveller is referred to the ^'Piotubesqux TouBisT," issued a few y^tos since. *«jWi0e^ik*>>!fe to #I*imIi^ New Yobk, Jtdy, iscd,.^^^-;. W ^'^s^^^'l^ l^v;;l0-:;;ifceiiiQ:KTft* essfi^moii i%^^|«e Ji 0^ H;y^\ CONTENTS. i»4 '^w v-i'j'^- PART L "XW«»v'iS't«Ti**?«' •*t-,t'<,i-tTtilsari-r:/rJ PART Ih-h-i^ju^jyili 'h'lmwiti^f^fim^-m Commerce of the lAket.— Early History, . . /r.\ . . . v.' : . .^. 2ft-2» First Steamboat on Lake Erie, 29 Tonnage of the Lake Districts in the United States 30 Commeroe of Buffalo, 1864 — Canadian Inlaud and Ocean Navigation 31 New York"lState Canals 32 Imports of Breadstuffs into Great Britain — Fisheries, Ac. 33 Lumber and Staves — Copper of Lake Superior ...... *-^~i ^ *^ •-. » « »»#,*>« . » • . 34 Bumness on Lake Superior — Shipments of Copper.. . ... . . : . . ^i . ; .... ... . . 35 Ircm and Iron Ore — Shipments, &c. 36 Iron and Iron Ore of Lake Superior ,%** '-^'.- PART in. ~ri^ ^'i ■'ifj la-^fh^i^im f! ' ■fft- '-. Trip Through the I^kes.— BuffUo, ^ . >. ; v^ i . . . ; . . 46 Buffalo to DaTBOir — North Shore Route, , . . 47 Port Colbome— Port Dover — Port Burwell — ^Port Stanley, Ac, 48 Pomt Pelee-^Detroit River — ^Amherstburg — Sandwich — ^Windsor— fto., 49 Roun FBOU Niagara Falls to Haioltoit and Dstboit. — St. Catharines — . Dundas, Ac., 50 Paris— Weodstodkr-Ingersoll — London — Chatham, Ae.,.. SI flONTKlCTS. \ Buffalo to Godbrioh, 0. W.— Dunville— Brantford, Ac, 5S Godorich—Tablo of Distanoes from BuilUo to Toledo, . , 63 Buffalo to Clevbland, Tolido, Ac— Dunkirk, Barcelona, Ac, 64 Brie — Conneaut — Ashtabula — Fairport, Paineaville, Ac, 66 Cleveland — Perry Monument, 66 Stsauboat Routbfrom Clbvsland to Dxtroit, 67 Black River — Vermilion — Huron — Sandusky — Toledo, Ac, .... 68 . Bailroads Diverging from Toledo — Perrysburgh, 69 Maumee Gity — Monroe— Trenton, Ac. — Route Around Lake Erie, 60 Ohio and Erie Canals — Fort Wayne, 61 Table of Distances from Cleveland and Detroit to Superior, 62 •Detboit— Railroads, Ac, '. 63 ■ Detroit River^-Ile la Perche, • 64 Dbtboit to Milwaukbb — Increase of Lake Cities, 66 Qrand Rapids — Grand Haven, Ac, 66 Tbip from Detroit to Magkinao, Chicago, Ac. — Trip Across Lake Michigan, . . '67 Ashby, Algonao — Newport — St. Clair, Ac., *.• . j«'#«i^i; . 68 ' Southerland — Port Huron — Fort Gratiot — Sarnia, Ac, i^...\.. 69 BoiTTR FROM Sarnia TO GoDiRiCH, Ac. — Kincardine — Saugeen, 70 BouTB FROM Port Huron to Saoinaw City— East Saginaw, Ac, 71 Lake Huron— Si^aw Bay — ^Tawas Bay, Ac, -. 72 LowBR Peninsula of Mighioak — Alpenu — Duncan, Ac, . . • 73 Old Mackinac — Grand Traverse City — Manistee — Grand Haven, Ac, 74 Steamboat Route from Detroit to Green Bay, Ac, 76 , Green Bay — ^Port Howard— Oconto, Ac, ..-. .<.*..«.r... ..:.... 76 . Nenomee City — Pensaiikee — Peshtigo — Gcna, Ac,, 77 Orbbn Bat to Fond Du Lao. — DePere— Kaukauna — Appleton — Neenah — Oshkosb, Ac, .;»,-r,«K«^ ^■■yv-* ^ • • 77^78 Fond Du Lac— Meeting of th^ Waters, 79 Ports of Lake Michigan. — Michigan City, Ac, 79 New Buffalo— St. Joseph— Niles— South Haven— Holland, Ac, 80 Chicago.— Railroad Routes, Ac, 80-81 Distances from Chicago to Mackinac, Ac, ...;,.,• 82 Ni-VAL VESSELa on the LABJea — Mississippi and Michigan Canaly. . . .-i.ji.^,^:,^ 83 Route from Chicago to Mackinac and Saut Stb. Maris, .,|.,^|H««r«:jtM>irii»*;^r« ^^ . Waukegan — Kenosha — Bacino— Milwaukee, ; .♦.....'. 8C Granaries of Iowa, Minnesota and Wisconsin, 86 . Sheybo; gan — Manitouwoc — Kewaunee — Ahneepee, Ac, 87 Manitou Islands— Fox Islands— Beaver Islands— Strait of Mackiuac, Ac, 88 MAOKiNAa— =1^e Town and Fortress, 89 Lover's Leap— Altitudes of Various Points, 90 Arched Rock — Sugar ■ Loaf, Ac, 91 Island of Mackinac, - 91-92 ilound Island— St. Martm's Bay— Doint de Town— St. Joseph's Island— ?■ Lime Island, Ac ^3 ^ JTebish Ishmd— Sugar Island- Lake George— Church's Landing, Ac ; 94 St Mart's River— Description of 96 Saut Stb. Marie— Fort Brady, 96 Bt, Marj's Sh%> OaBal^—dosoripMeA cf . . . 4^^*:*^:; « :U% m*' ............ r^ ^ w^> : 97 4 CONTlirTt. ▼tt Dutahoh from Ck^LLiNowooo TO Saut Ste. If ABia— opening and Closing of Navigation, ft CoUingwood— Fisheries Ac, •....". .;..:.V ^10 OsoROiAN Bat — CJollinuwood to Saut Stc Maris — PoneUuQ'mishene, &o.,. . . . 100 Owen's Sound — Lonely Island — Smith's Bay — She-ba-wa-ui -ning, Aa,..f . . . 101 Man-i-tou-wah-ning — Little Curreut — ^Bnice Mines, Ac., « 102 TlliP FROM COLLINOWOOD TO FORT WiLUAM, C. W., 103-106 Distances Around Lake Superior, , 106 Obaio) Pleasure Excursion Around Lajks Supibiob, 106 Keweenaw Point — Light Houses, &a, 107 White Fish Point— Point au Sable, 108 PiOTURRD RooK»— The Chapel, Ac, 109-113 Luke Superior Region — Grand Island — Muuising, Ac, 1 l4i Remabkablr Phenomena — Monumental Rock, 115-118 Rise and Fall of the Waters of Lake Superior, 117 MARQUETTE — Iron Mountain, '. 118 Trout Fishing — Bay de Noquet and Marquette Railroad, 119 Granite Island — Huron Isles — L'/ince — Portage Entry — Houghton, 120 Portage Lake — Hancockw— Keweenaw Point, 121 Copper Harbor — Agate Harbor— Eagle Harbor — Eagle River — Ontonagon. . . 122 Lake Superior — Its Climate and Health-Restoring Influence 123 ; Ia Pomte— ^Madeline Island, 124 '' Layfield — Ashland — Twelve Apostles' Islands, 126 Healthy Influence of Lake Superior, .... 128 Superior City— Tablo of Distances — Fond du Lac, 127 St Louis River — Portland — Cli(ton — Buchanan — Encampment — Beaver Bay — Pigeon Bay and River, 128 Northern Shore of Lake Superior — Isle Royale,.. ,,ix,mi,^i, Il0 Fisheries of I^ake Superior — ^Trout Fishing, ..»•... 130 . f Vessels Lost in the Lake Superior Trade, •-#,. «..«».. . 131 The Lakes — Land of the Free, Ac, ;i . ^. '132 Trip Alon^ the North Shore or Lake Superior, 133 Taquamenon Bay — Mamainse Point — Montreal Island — Michipiooten Harbor, 133 . 4: Midiipicoten Island — Caribou Island — Otter Bay — Slate Island, 134 i ^ Copper Regions of Lake Superior — North Shore, * .-'* » v.-; • i *1. ; '1^4 <; > Fort William, C. W.— McKay 's Mountain— Kaministiquai River, 13tt '^Thunder Bay— Pie Island— Black Bay— Neepigon Bay— Island of St. IgnMe^ 138 Houte from Lake Superior to I^ake 'VHnniptif ^ ^ Dog Lake — Savan or Prarie Portage, Ac, \ ^ ,^ ^ . . j3t ::tS>vftii River— Rainy Lake and River — Lake of the Woods, ^ ... . ,138 .V .^Winnipeg River — Lake Wi»nipeg, 13% c- Lakes in the Valley of the Saskatchewan — Red Riy^r of the Nqr^. . . ...... 140 Red River Settlejment, ; \\ 1421 XHstaMW frMi Vtrt WiUiMi t9 Fort Alexaiid#r, Fort Q«ai7, A*., 14i riiX ""nrtpool and RaDida—inii '■■-• 148 ^P^^ of them uZ:r^';i-;;^ ^''^^^ ^es^Situation. • 162 -»t» ''^'^''^^^mA&^Mk^aqi^^ni,:^ PART VT . ^^^iS^l^Jt'^^^^ *■'■■■■■■■■ „,. ^PIJ. 4c. '^"^"'M to GreMTflJf^;" 1»S *•'•• "'" »'«^«B ADmnaa.ssiiT'**''^"'- ' ■■■■■■"■ "* ■ I ' ■* ,. ' > '- • TAILS OP DI8TAKCS8, From Boston, Mew York, PlUladolpbla an^ Baltimore, to BllaffHra Falls, BnHkilo, Cleveland. Ac. Milea. 1. BoBTOir to Albany, via Wutam Railroad of Massachusetts, 200 Albany to Ntaoara Falls, via New York Cereal Bailroad, 300 — 506 Nlaoara Falls to Detroit, Mich., via Oreat Weatem Railtoay of Canada,. 280 — ?36 2. "Skw YOUK to Alb Axr, y\A Hudton Rumr Railroad, 145 Albany to Buffalo, via Nsw York Central Railroad, 298 — 443 3. Niw York to Buffalo, via Brie Railway, 432 Buffalo to Cleveland, Ohio, via. Lake Shore Railroad, 1R3 — 615 4. Ksw ToBK to Harrisbubo, via iV. J. Central Railway, 181 Harbibbubo to Pittsburgh, via Penntylvvnia Central Raihvad, 249 — 131 PiTTSBUKdH to CLEVELAtn>, via Pittsburgh and Cleveland Ibnlway, 160 — 581 6 Philaoelhhia to Pittsburgh, via Pennsylvania Central Railroad, 366 PiTTBBUBGH to CLEVELAND. Via Pittsburgh and Cleveland Railroad, 150 — 506 6. Philadelphia to Eluiba, via Philadelphia and Elmira Railway, .^ • v SV6 Elmiba to Buffalo, via Erie Railway, , 159—434 7. BAi/nifOBE to Habbisbubg, via Northern Central Railway ^, 85 Harribburg to Eliora, N. Y. *♦- "■ ' '^ f ^- '■: ^ "..,....... .ITl— 256 Elmiba to Buffalo, via Erie Railway, .159 — il5 8. Baltimobb to PitTSBtTROH, via Pennsylvania Central Railroad, 334 PrrTSBUBOH to Cliv.> iANS, Ohio, via Pittsburgh and Cleveland RaHroad,, 150 — 484 Cleveland to Dbtboi., Mich., via Steamboat Route,.. : 120 — 604 Boston to New YOBK, i?a»rroadi?oa««,.V.V; 236 Kew Yobk to Philadelphia, Railroad Route, 90 — 326 PmiiAIMELPHIA to BaLTDI OBE, " " 98-— 124 Baltimobb to Washxnoton, " " 40 — 164 i> 4- ' «if ^^^^li»lfl BAILBOAB AHB BTEAKBOAT KOtlTZ, ^'^^^ ****5 ^ ;f ; > Prom Hew York to jAke Superior. . (^^eji ■■■"■•r • '':'^' >■ >jf.-i;s;w«j:'.^"fti" t*J..'J.-'»'w Vr^^'i'arjji^.- ^^ii^^li/v ST0PPINOPLA0B8. HH^'i » »i^i? s^*'^ Totol Miles. TTeual Tiina. 'I*^'^ , ;'ih, '■"■ . w;-A,j.-«.-^.. ^"•«*i*^^^ i?r-'v j::-^ ^...-■. ., -, Hours. "'^■••^ ^iv Nbw Yoke to Aiuuant, by RaOroad :> j,. l46 ' ' '' ^ # ^ >->^>i -^ ^ ^ Albany TO BuFPAio, ^^" ^- " 298 443 10 '*^ "^^"^ —^^1 Albany to Nuoara Falls, " 304 ' •■ - * - - -^i^^i^ ^^ BUPFALO to ClevblaniJ, Ohio, " 183 626 ' -^. •> ?< < i Glbysland TO Detroit, by ♦> ^-^'^' DsTRorf TO Port Huron, " 13 819 fV^rt ' Port Huron to SautStb. Marie " 271(1,096 i| f^- Saut Stb. Marie to Marquette " 160 1,256 ' Jit Ji^^ ' :^V*.,- ■ -^^ -;-H -< . .i ■ Marquette to Ontonagon, " 226 1,482 ft ^ -ii Ontonagon to Bayfield, "...... 78 1,560 ;^ ^ J/ . • Z Baytibld to Superior OiTT, " 80 1,640 t 2 . , „ Total Running Time, 4 days and 12 hours. ^ ; r^ .v^u v 4 4 ■ W ..'"-'"^ ; K- . ,,^«. ,■•. . ■ ■;,)' ■ -, ■ ■ ■ • • • ■i.„,i«^»^_ ■ ■ '"'■i- , . ■ - , '... -v. ..i»4 .■• • V ,'3'. -.•y-'' _.,?* Jt ■iJ' Usual Fabs lh>m New York to Buffalo. $9 36 fe>.v ?./.•* •* New York to Oleveland, C 14 36 & >iJ ^ f • • New York to Dciroit, Mich 16 35-:^''^ 'mi- • •:■- >'q .^»^^,^ Diroon to Lake Superior and Return ^ -a > .,,; , fe-&'^ , .....'■ - .■-"- '''■•'"' ■"*'■* -^"'"^..'S _.v-^ -z^- ^ .,■..--.,....■.... . • ^ - f . . ^ o * " • ^- -. - i ■ ■ ^ ' • " V ■-■ ,' '"-' ■•' . - , ., t. ■ A*l •^^■Mi^ kmft tiT.i ^fs-tt/y^f ■ Q JJJ^- • ', * '' "^"^ Marquette In 1M4. ' ^ »<^^^^»<< ^f- .»^;iti^3«^ :.^n:^ :\ 15 ■ '^ ^^ .t'ja Extract from the Lake Superior Mning Jowmai, Ikeember, 1864. d 'W} ^iiif^ Baring the present year our town and vicinity have made steady and substan- tial advance in all its interests. Our iron — ^the great staple of the district, the in- dex of civilization on the dial-plate of time — has become moro widely known, and secured the investment of nearly $4,000,000 of capital in our county, large- ly increasing the valuation of red cstHio as well as idl other property. Thirteen new mines have been opened, out of which only one has afforded so poor a prospect as to be abandoned. We have shipped 248,000 gross tons of iron ore from our docks, and supplied about 25,000 tons to tlio several furnaces, making a product of nearly HOO.UOO net tons for the district The prit'C of this ore on the docks has ranged from five dollars to seven and one-half dollars per ton, or an aggregate valuation of $1,500,- 000. The sum total of shipments for the several mines for the season have been as follows: Jackson 6&,228 grou tons. Lak68uperlor 98.929 Pittabarch and Lake Angcline. . 19,000 ** Clevelaad 64,148 •♦ Our charcoal pig furnaces have become a very valuable adjunct to our iron mi- ning. We have now seven stacks com- pleted, with a capacity to consuce 45,000 tons of ore next season^ and all the " signs of tiie times" indicate that they will be fully employed. The manufacture of charcoal pig has this year proved one of the very best investuients in the county — as the statements of the profits of the Morgan Furnace, which appeared in our columns a few weeks ago, will show — a net profit of 220 per cent, in ten months. In addition to cu" iron business, the last year has developed a new and valua- ble iuterest in two parallel ranges of hillfl which extend across that part of the Up- per Peninsula lying between Presque Islo — three miles north of Marquette — and the head of Keweenaw Bay. This is known as the Gk>ld and Silver Lead Region. The geology and topography of this dis- trict are c'jite peculiar, and we think the former not yet well known. As far as we have seen it ourselves, it consists prin- cipally of metamorphic slate — chlorltic, talcose, silicious, and sometimes bom- blendic The formation is very irregular, and frequently cut through by granite and trap-dykes. It consists for the most part of two series of small parallel ridges running in a northerly and southerly di- rection, which series of ridges constitute two parallel hill chains extending in a west-northwest and east-southeast direc- tion across the above-mentioned part of our country. These ridges are quite abundant in quartz veins, whidi have been found to carry auriferous and argen- tiferous ores. -. - V Agriculturally, rre have not yet at- tracted much attention. But now, the days of our infancy having passed, and the word having gone forth that we are to live, it is beginning to be understood that we afford one of the best merkets in the States for all kinds of produce.* Our soil, too, contrary to an opinion generally received a few years ago, ia proving rich for agricultural purposes. The foUov/ing products for this year are believed to be very near the exact figures for thecotmty. We expect to be able, however, to give our readers a carefully prepared agricul- tural report for this year, compared with the products of last year, compiled by Sidney Adams, Esq., — th« moft Qxteasivs farmer in the county. ^ *>K-! COPPER AND IRON ORE. There were raised 20,000 bushels of potatoes, 3,000 bushels oi^ruta bagas, 200 tons of hay. Some estimate of the prob- able amount of land cultivated in potatoes can be made from Mr. Adamses farm. He planted seventeen acres, and dug nineteen hundred bushels. The cost of cultivating the hmd was $850, and the value of the crop $2,850, making a clear gain of $2,000. Mr. George Bublein informed us a few weeks itgo that from about one acre of land he had this year raised three hun- dred busbols of this valuable crop. This was a large yield, but there no longer re- mains a question that capital invested here in agricultural pursuits will return as large a dividend as in any enterprise on the Lake. There is every leason to believe that wheat, oats, hay, potatoes, turnips, and other garden vegetable ^j apples, pears, cherries, and many other fruits, can be raised here abundantly. The climate of Lake Superior is well adapted to mining and manufacturing iron upon a large scale. The air is pure, cool, and bracing, and men labor without fa- t^ue or depression of spirits ; fevers of every description are unknown, and even contagious diseases lose their virulence in that invigorating atmosphere. It is by no means the h3rperboreftn and inhos- pitable region which it is by many sup- posed to be. Agricultural products which can be successfully raised in Northern New England and Lower Canada, can be raised in the Lake Superior region as welL The former is a theory of thermomet- rical observations for two years, ending September, 1859, ^aken at Marquette, and reported to the Smithsonian Institute ; it will serve to dispel any extravagant no- tions, as to the severity of the cli^te : High. 8ept 86" Oct 72 Not. 49 Dec. 41 Jan. 44 Feb. 49 Mftr. 58 April 65 May 6d Juue 94 July 92 Aug. 90 -1867-8- Low- Mt. -1858-9- 88' 25 1 5 8 12 IS 19 28 89 44 40 MetkB of th« month. 58.15-100* 45ill 23.87 2ai6 2&58 12.72 2a68 87.19 4475 69.87 68.68 68.55 Hish- Mt. 88* 78 44 88 40 41 67 62 84 81 98 97 Loir- csU 40* 86 15 8 9 10 1 12 84 81 40 40 MtMl of iho month. 56.66-100* 45.88 81.09 2460 21.27 19.76 80.89 3a79 60.54 64.13 6&81 61.17 Mean for the year. " ** Autumn. . •' •* Winter . . " " Spring... •* ** Summer . 1867-91 .41.86 .44.04 .22.14 .8a87 .62.86 1858-9. 41.4ft 4484 21.87 88J7 61.98 ..I, Copper and Eron Ore, Tolls, Ac. BxATURXT of Copper and Iron Ore; also, Iron lit bars, Ac, passing through St Mary^a IShlp Omal, . , from 1865 to 1864 inolosive. Copper Iroa ore Iron in bars, dw. Tons, 1855 8,199 1,447 Copper Iron ore Iron in bars, &o. I860 Tons, 8,614 116,998 5,1(69 u w 186S 6,727 11,597 1,040 18«1 7,645 45,887 4,194 1867 6,760 26,184 1,825 6,881 118,014 6,488 18S8 6,944 81,085 2,597 1863 10,018 181,567 8,000 ISSt 7,805 66,769 6,060 1864 8,662 286,166 12,961 1' ..'J Statkmint, showing the Receipts for Toll on St Mary> Ship Canal *" :.' 1855 1856 1857 1858 1859 1860 1861 136S 1868 1864 BMalpta 14,874 T,604 9,406 10,889 16,941 24,^77 16673 81,607 80,574 85,714 and inhos- Y many sup- Kiucts which n Northern lada, can be region as thermomet- >ars, en«Ung rquette, and nstitute; it ^vagant no- climate: Mean of th« moath. 66.66.100* 45.88 81.09 2i.60 21.27^" 19.T6 V- 80.69 8a79 60.64 64.13 6&81 6117 r-a 1858-*. i"-*X^i. ;; nx', a ~i /• .*. /J V ■■ ■ ) ;i ; .' " '■■•■i i\ 2; jk*' , . ■'i > -> '.'.S"^i;*-..vji!L'' M" ^1 ■ r-. ■fe. )4 14 J7 16 41.45 44.84 21.87 8&87 61.88 185t .805 ,, ;080 , '• l««4 vV ,66S 166 951 ' -' IN4 a^n4 MAGNITUDE OF THE LAKES, OR "INLAND SEAS." )THING but a I voyage over all of [the great bodies of I water forming the " Inland Seas," [can furnish the tourist, or scientific explorer, a just idea of the extent, depth, and clear- ness of the waters of the Great Lakes of America, together with the healthy influence, fertility, and romantic beauty of the numerous inlands, and surrounding shores, forming a circuit of about 4,000 miles, with an area of r\000 square miles, or about twice the extent of the State of New York— ex- tending through eight degress of latitude, and sixteen degrees of longitude — this region embracing the entire hortli half of the temperate zoue, where the purity of the atmosphere vies with the purity of these e-M^nsive waters, or '* Inland Seas," being connected by navigable rivers or straits. The States, washed by the Great Lakes, are New York, Pennsylvania, Ohio, Mich- igan, Indiana, IlUnois, Wisconsin, Minne- sota, and Canada West — ^the boundary line between the United States and the British Possessions running through the centre of Lakes Superior, Huron, St. Clair, Erie, and Ontario, together with the connecting rivers or straits, and down the St. Lawrence River to the 4Sth paral- lel of latitude. From thence the St. Lawrence flows in a northeast direction throu^^ Canada into the Gulf of St. Law- '.'•■. ■ ■■• • rence. The romantic beauty of the rapids of this noble stream, and its majestic flow through a healthy and rich section of country, is unsurpassed for grand lake and river scenery. Lake Superior, the largest of the Inland Seas, lying between 46^ 30' and 49" north latitude, and between 84'' 30' and 92" 30' west longitude from Green« wich, is situated at a height of 600 feet above the Gulf of St. Lawrence, from which it is distant about 1,500 miles by the course of itb outlet and the St. Law- rence river. It is 460 miles long from east to west, and 170 miles broad in its widest part, with an average breadth of 85 miles ; the entire circuit being about 1,200 miles. It is 800 feet in greatest depth, extending 200 feet below the level of the ocean. Estimated area, 31,500 square miles, being by far the largest body of fresh water on the face of the globes-celebrated alike for its sparkling purity, romantic scenery, and uealthy in- fluence of its surrounding climate. About one hundred rivers and creeks are said to flow into the lake, the greatest part being small streams, and but few navigable ex- cept for canoes, owing to numerous falls and rapids. It discharges its waters east- ward, by the strait, or river St. Mary, 60 miles long, into Lake Huron, which lies 26 feet below, there being about 20 feet descent at the Saut Ste Marie, which is overcome by means of two locks and a ship canal. Its outlet, is a most lovely and romantic stream, embosoming a num- ber of large and fertile islands, covered with a rich foliage. . , '■Xt. 14 MAONITUDK OF THE LACEi, I^ake michl^aii, lying 576 ft. above the sea, is 320 miles long, 86 miles broad, and 700 feet deep; area, 22,000 square miles. This lake lies wholly within the oonfines of the United States. It pre- sents a large expanse of water, with but few islands, except near its entrance into the Straits of Mackinac, through which it discharges its surplus waters. The strait is 30 or 40 miles in length, and discharges its accumulated waters into Lake Huron, on nearly a level with Lake Michigan. At the north end of the lake, and in the Straits, are several large and romantic islands, affording delightful resorts. Oreeil Bay, a most beautify ex- panse of water, containing several small islands, lies at about the same elevation as Lake Michigatf ; it irf 100 miles long, 20 miles broad, and 60 feet deep ; area, 2,000 square miles. This is a remarkably pure body of water, presenting lovely shores, surrounded by a fruitful and beftlthy section of country. ^ I^ake Huron, lying at a height of 674 feet above the sea, is 250 miles long, 100 miles broad, and 750 feet greatest depth; area, 21,000 square miles. This lake is almost entirely free of islands, presenting a large expanse of pure water. Its most remarkable feature is Saginaw Bay, lying on its western border. The waters of this lake are now whitened by the sails of commerce, it being the great thoroughfare to and from Lakes Michigan and Superior. Geors^ian Bay, lying northeast of Lake Huron, and of the same altitude, being separated by islands and headlands, lies wholly within the confiues of Canada. It is 140 miles long. 55 miles broad, and 500 feet in depth ; area, 5,000 square miles. In the Nbrtk Channel, which com- municates with St. Mary's River, and in Georgian Bay, are innumerable islands and islets, forming an interesting and ro- mantic feature to this pure body of water. All the above bodies of water, into which are discharged a great number of streami, find an outlet by the River St. Clair, com- mencing at the foot of Lake Huron, where it has only a width of 1,000 feet, and a depth of from 20 to 60 feet, flowi&g with a rapid current downward, 38 miles, into E .ake Huron, f 1,000 feet, feet, flowing »rd, 38 miles, ih is 26 miles road, with ^ uost diflBcui Mi in passing ■e only about Detroit Biv^, dpient of all southward atry int- k great lake 3 latter laka ) the sea of miles broad, epth, but, on ss than 100 as waters by 3, into Lake feet of this immediately t the Falls iefly in the the mouth Lake Erie. ow body of ths of the illustrated iers poured ior, Miclii- )&i/«ofErfe Lake Erti the series ible. The scribed to volume of —with its favorable its water, lately ad- avigation uux either not exceed from 600 to 2,60<0 feet abore the level of tlie ocean, while the altitude of the land which forms the water-.shcd of Lake Champlaiu and the lower tribu- taries of the St. Lawrence River rises from 4,000 to 5,000 above the level of the sea or tide-water, in the States of Ver- mont and New York. The divide which separates the waters of the Gulf of Mexico, from those flow- ing northeast into tiie St. Lawrence, do not in some places exceed ten or twenty feet above the level of Lakes Michig^ and Superior ; in fact, it is said that Lake Michigan, when under the influence of high water and a strong northerly wind, discharges some of its surplus waters into the Illinois River, and thence into the Mississippi and Gulf of Mexico— so low is the divide at its southern terminus. When we consider the magpaitude of these Great Lakes, the largest body of fresh water on the globe, being connected by navigable Straits, or canals, we may quote with emphasis the words of an EngUsh writer: "How little are tbey aware, in Europe, of the extent of com- merce upon these ^Inland Seas,' whose coasts are now Uned with flourishing towns and cities ; whose waters are plow- ed with magnificent steamers, and hund- reds of vessels crowded with merchandise! Even the Americans themselves are not fully aware of the rising importance of these great lakes, as connected with the Far West. -.. /, .-^ ■. sr ':.t--: '< .... ;.: < ' ''■* .'"^■^i*:'«■ < ,^-' '^/^t.-J TBIEXTTAItlES OF THE GREAT LAKES AHB ST. LAWBEKCE The ascertained temperature in the mid- 9 of Lake Erie, August, 1845, was tem- rature of air 76*^ Fahrenheit, at noon — ater at surface 73" — at bottom 53". Lake Ontario, the Jifth and last f the Great Lakes of America, is eleva- ed 234 feet above tide-water at Three ivers on the St. Lawrence; it is 180 lies long, 60 miles broad, 600 feet deep. Thus basin succeeds basin, like the locks of a great canal, the whole length of waters from Lake Superior to the Gulf of St. Lawrence being rendered navigable for vessels of a large class by means of the Welland and St. Lawrence canals — thus enabling a goaded vessel to ascend or descend 600 feet above the level of the ocean, or tide-water. Of these five great lakes, Lake Superior has by far the larg- est area, and Lake Ontkrio has the least, havmg a surface only about one-fifth of thai of Lake Superior, and being some- vthat less in area than Lake Erie, although not much less, if any, \n the circuit of its shores. Lake Ontario is the safest body of water for navigation, and Lake Erie the most dangerous. The lakes of great- est interest to the tourist or scientific traveler are Ontario, Huron, together with Georgian Bay and North Channel, and Lake Superior. The many picturesque islands and headlands, together with the pure dark green waters of the Upper Lakes, form a most lovely contrast during the summer and autumn months. The altitude of the land which forms the water-shed of the Upper Lakes does Unlike the tributaries of the Mississip- pi, the streams falling into the Great Lakes or the St. Lawrence River are mostly rapid, and navigable only for a short dis- tance from their mouths. The following are the principal Rivers that are navigable for any oonsideraUe length: ;-f--* i< ?1 ".■*•■' If ./tXAJLi MAONITUDK OF THS LAKK8.-^tr !«2rA»i: St Louis River, Min. . . . .,,.. Superior to Fond da Lao 2i Fok, or Neen&h, Wis Green Bay to Lake Winnebago* 3 St. Joseph, Mich.'. i'J^^.*". vi^ St. Joseph to Niles 2 Grand River, " . i ;>V^ Grand Haven to Grand Rapids. . . v.-r 4 Muskegon, " .ViT.\ Muskegfon to Newaygo Saginaw " Saginaw Bay to Upper Sag^aw 2 Maumee, Ohio Maumee Bay to Perrysburgh 18' Genesee, N.Y../ Charlotte to Rochester 6 CANADIAN SIDK. MflcS. Thames - Lake St. Olair to Chatham 24 Ottawa « • * \* ^ Chine to Cfurillon 40 " , . . .* (^ means of locks to Ottawa City)\. . . 70 Richelieu or Sorel Sorel to Lake Champlain {by locht) 76 Saguenay Tadusac to Chicoutimi .'.... 70 ■■mf^i^.'-'^-^y LAKE AHB RIYEB HAVIGATIOH, :^**''''t'**"';*-'''*'"; -'*^ FROM FOND DU LAO, LAKE SUPBRIOE, TO THB GULP OF ST. LAWRBNbB. ti- T AirM PrvwM wnn Length III Grefttest Av. |.i.^.* LAKM,Enn«a,Ma . .;.- ^y^^ breadth, breadth. Superior 460 170 --^^ St. Mary's River 60 5 3 Michigan 320 85 68 Green Bay 100 25 18 Strait of Mackinac 40 20 10 Huron 250 100 70 North Channel 160 20 10 Georgian Bay 140 66 40 St. Clair River 38 . li 1 Lake St. Clair* 26 26 18 Detroit River 27 3 1 Erie 250 70 40 Niagara River 36' 3 1 Ontario 180 58 40 St. Lawrence River 760 100 2 .Lake St. Francis, foot Long Saut.. . 4 Lake St. Louis, foot Cascade Rapids I 'At Montreal t Lake St. Peter »:^^.. tJ. fUtMB ^lE'lMPCC) Tide- water at Three Rivers. . . At Quebec. IE I 1 Depth in feet. EL above 8ea. 800 600 ft. 10 to 100 700 676 " I »;.. 100 676 " 20 to 200 575 " 700 674 " 20 to 200 574 " 500 674 " 20 to 60 10 to 20 668 " 10 to 60 200 664 " i-r^ii. 234 " ■■«.;;. t.v ' 142 " •■ 68 " 18 " J ^ai££TO^. 6. " t " \ " r\. Total miles navigivtion 2,835 '"^^ B7 means of 17 locks, oreroomlng an elevation of 170. feet t The navigation for Bteamers extends 100 miles above Ottawa Ulty, by means of portages ana locKB. * The Si. Clair JTtofA, which have to be passed by all lai^ steamers and sail vessels running from Lake Erie to the Upper Lakes, now affords twelve i«et uf water, the «Mj7 ekaniul being very narrow and winding, where stands a light and buoys to guide the mariner. ALTITUDES — TOPOOaiA^lir AND M£TBOKOLOGT. rit ........... 2 jbago* 3 2 apida. ..t'.'rAfi >•••••*«••'• 4v; iginaw 261 rgh 18! 6 MQes. 24 40 va City)\... 10 by locM) 75 no )hn, 60 m.) WBENCB. >th EL above lieet. Bea. 800 600 ft. 100 700 676 " 100 676 " 200 676 " 00 674 " !00 674 " >00 674 " 60 20 668 ** 60 00 664 " 00 234 " 142 68 18 ■• ;. i It •'.'iHAt^jJ tagesandlockt. 1 running from ig verjnaiTow ALTiriTDE OF YAEIOTIB PODTTS OH • , ; SUPBKIOE. LooAiJma. Lake Superior Point Iroquois, South Shore Groa Gap, 0. W,, North Shore. .. : Grand Sable, South Shore Pictured Bocka, " Iron Mouat&ias, " Quincy Copper Mine, Portage Lake. Mount Houghton, near Keweenaw Point Porcupine Mountains, South Shore. . . Isle Royale, Michigan Minnesota Mountains (estimated). Michipicoten Island, 0. W. Pie Island, St. Ignace (estimated) McKay's Mountain, Thunder Gape, THS SHOBBS OF JLAKE Abore Lake Saperior. Above the Be^ 41 « U '♦f*> 000 feet 600 8 5 (( 960 700 (i 1,300 346 verament at three military posts in the District, viz. : Forts Wilkins (Copper Harbor), Brady, and Mackinac. From these observations it appears that the mean annual tempera- ture of Fort Brady is about one degree lower than that of Fort Wilkins, although the latter post is nearly a degree further north. This difference arises from the insular position of Keweenaw Point, which is surrounded on three sides by water. Tho dimate at Fort Brady, dur- 2 ing the whole season, corresponds in • remarkable degree with that of St. Peters- burg. The temperature ^ '• the region is very favorable to the gro :h of oereals. Tlie annual ratio of fai days at Fort Brady is 1G8 ; of cloudy days, 77 ; rainy days, 71 ; snowy days, 47. '^ The temperature of the water of Lake Superior during the summer, a fathom or two below the surface, is but a few de- grees above the freezing point. In the western portion, the water is much colder than in the eastern — ^the surface flow be- coming warmer as it advances toward l^e outlet. The mirage which frequently oc- curs, is occasioned by the difference be- tween the temperature of the air and the Lake. Great difficulties are experienced ivova. this cause in making astronomical observations. '. tfF' •'Auroras, even in midsummer, are of frequent occurrence, and exhibit a bril- liancy rarely observed in lower latitudes." — F(»Ux db Whi^tey^a Report u ^f'MJ*- tfAONITUDS OF THE LAKES. ijr.iA l^ THE UPPER LAKES, OB "IHLANB i3EA,'' OF AMEBICA. / This appellation applies to Lakes Hu- / ton, Midiigan, and Superior, including Green Bay, lying within the confines of the United States, and (Georgian Bay, which lies entirely in Canada. These bodies of water embrace an area Of abont 75,000 square miles, and, as a whole, are deserving of the name of the * Inland Sea,' being closely connected by straits or water-courses, navigable for the largest class of steamers or sail vessels. The shores, although not elevated, are bold, and free fh>m marsh or swampy lancU, presenting one dean range of coast for about 3,000 miles. By a late decision of the Supreme Court of the U. States, the Upper Lakes mduding Lake Erie, with their connect . ing waters, were declared to be sea$, com- mercially and legally. Congress, under . this dedsion, is empowered to improve 'a, the harbors of the lakes and the connect- > ing struts, precisely as it has power to I, dp the same on the seaboard. This will : probably lead to a vigorous policy in the «. maintenance of Federal authority, both in . improving the harbors, and making pro- , vision for the safety of commerce, and .i protection of life, as well as guarding against foreign invasion. The only forti- fication of importance that is garrisoned is Ihrt Mackinac, guarding the passage Uirough the Straits of Mackinac- 'tkl The islands of these lakes are numer- ous, particularly in the Straits of Mackinac, and in G^rgian Bay, retaining the same bold and virgin appearance as the main- land ; most of them are fertile and sus- ceptible of high cultivation, although, as yet, but few are inhabited to anv oonsid- * erable extent. s . .11.: ■'*^'V, i--* The dark g^en waters of the Upper! Lakes, when agitated by a storm, or the motion &: a passing steamer, presents aj brilliancy peculiar only to Uiese trans- parent waters — they theu assume the ad- mixture of white foam, with a lively green | tinge, assuming a crystal-like appearance, m this pure water, the white fish, and I other spedes of the finny tribe, delight to gambol, affording the sportsman and' epicurean untold pleasure, which is well | described in the followiDg poem: THE WHITE FISH. Hknrt B. SoHOOLCRArr, in his poem. "Thb White Fish," says: ** All friends to trood living bj tnreen and dlab, Cobcur in exulting tbie prince (>f ft flsh ; So fine in a platter, so tempting a fry. So rich an a gridiron, bo aweetln a pie: That even before it the Balmon mustflul, And that mightv bonne-bouche, of the land- beaver^s tail. • • * * Tis s morsel alike for the goormand or (hster, While, white AS a tablet of pure alabaster I Its beauty or flavor no person can doubt, When seen in tfaejoMr or tasted without; And all the disp<|0nitt opinion ere mnkes Of this king of lake flsbes, this 'deer qfths lake*:* Begard not its choicenc3s to ponder or sup. But the best mode of dressing and serving it npw « * « • Here too, might a fancy to descant inclined, Contemplate the love that pertains to the kin4, And bring up the red man, in fanciful strains, To prove its-creation iVom feminine brains.*^ * A translation of Ad-dik-ke»m-maig, tlM In* dian name for this fish, t Vide '' Indian Teles and Legends.* . ;, ■ ■;.• / ;,. "' - :...■■ , ^-" ■ '. f**"t ■ ...-■ ~< '■>' ■ ""■ T ■ ■ "• ■'. '■'■^''V ^ . ■ ' • z y \ FISn OP TUB UPPKR LAKK9. ,v- 1» Mim6k>Mm FISH OF THE UPPER LAKES. & KSi<' " The numbers, ▼aneties, and excellent lality of lake fish are worthy of notice. is believed that no Aresh waters known ftn, in any respect, bear comparison, ley are, with some exceptions, of the le kind in aU the lakes. Those found Laku Superior and the straits of St. [ary are of the best quality, owing to the )oler te-^pera' 'ire of the water. Their [uantities are burprising, and apparently inexhaustible, as to warrant the belief hat were a population of millions to in- habit the lake shore, they would furnish ample supply of this article of food nt^out any sensible diminution. There seyeral kinds found in Lake Superior, id some of the most delicious quality, lat are not found in the lakes below, as le siskowit and muckwaw, which grow the weight of eight or ten pounds. the salmon and some others are found in )ntario, but not above the Falls of Niag- ra. " The following is a very partial list of few of the prominent varieties: the rhite fish, Mackinac and salmon-trout, turgeon, muscaluoje, siskowit, pickerel, ^ike, perch, herring, white, black, and )ck bass, cat, pou^ eel-pout, bull-head, )ach, sun-fish, dace, sucker, carp, mullet, il-flsh, sword-fish, bull-fiuBh, stone-carrier, leeps-head, g^r, &c. " The lamprey-eel is found in all, but le common eel is found in neither of the ^kes, nor in any of their tributaries, except le. The weight to which some of these ttain is not exceeded by the fish of any ther inland freeh waters, except the Mis- ^ssippt. ♦ ♦ * « " The fish seem to be more numerous )ine years than others, and likewise of stter quality. The kinds best for pick- ig and export are the white fish, Mack- and salmon trout, sturgeon, and Sckerel. The fisheries at which these caught are at MaoTrinac, at several points in each of the four straits, the southeast part of Lake Superior, Thunder Bay, Saginaw Bay, and Fort Gratiot near foot of Lake Huron. The sport of taking the brook trout, which are found in great abundance in the rapids at the Saut Ste Marie, and most all of the streams falling into the Upper Lakes, affords healthful amusement to hundreds of amateur fish- ermen during the summer and fall months. The modes of taking the diiferont kinds of fish are in seines, dip-nets, and gill-nets, and the trout with hooks. " Those engc^d in catching fish in the Straits of Mackinac, are composed of Americans, Irish, French, half breeds, and Indians. Some are employed by cap- italists, others have their own boats and nets. Each one is furnished with a boat, and from fifty to one hundred nets, re- quiring constantly two or three men for each boat, to run the different gangs of nets. The fish caught are principally white fish, with some trout. The demand for exportation increases every year, and although immense quantities are caught every season, still no diminution in their number is perceived. " A fleet iSf two hundred fish-boats art, eng^ed in and about the Straits, em- bracing, however, all the Beaver group. Each boat will average one barrel of fish per day during the fishing season. * * « * « " Te, who are fond of sport and fun, who wish for wealth and strength; ye, who love angling; ye, who believe that God has given us a time to pray, a time to dance, Ac, kc, go to these fishing- grounds, gain health and strength, and pull out Mackinac trout from 20 to 40 lbs. in weight One hook and line has, in three to four hours, pulled out enough to fill three to four barrels of fish,' without taking the sport in^o consideration. "Yours, W. M. J.' 90 MAONITUDK OF THE LAKES. PHTSICAL CHABACTEB OF THE MISSISSIPPI BASIK. fl. " The Valley of the MiBoissippi, bounded on the one hand by the Rooky Mountains, and on the other by the AUeghanies, em- braces a drainage area of 1,244,000 square miles, which is more than one-half of the entire area of the United States. The Upper Mississippi Valley is composed of three subordinate basins, whose respective dimensions are as follows : Square miles. The Ohio basin 814,000 The Upper Mississippi 109,000 The Missouri 618,00(» ,,^«U Mal(iDg a total of 901,000 V,; tts navigable rivers are as follows: Miles. Missouri, to near the Oreat Falls 8,160 Missouri, above Great Falls to Three Forks 160 Osafre, to Osceola 800 Kansas 100 BifrSioux 76 TcUow-stone 800 Upper Mississippi, to St. Paul 668 St. Anthony, to Sauk Rapids 80 Above Little Fall^ to Pokegima Falls 860 Minnesota, to Patterson's liapids 896 St Croix, to St Croix Falls 60 Illinois, to La Salle 880 Ohio, to Pittsburgh 976 Monongahela,to G eheva(Black- water,4 locks) 91 Mnsklnf um, to Dresden " 8 ** 100 Green River to BowlingOreen** 6 " 186 Kentucky, to Brooklyn " 6 " 117 Kanawha, to Gauley Bridge 100 Wabash, tu Lafayette 886 Salt, to Sbepherdsvllle 80 Sandy, to lA>uisa 86 Tennessee, to Muscle Shoals 600 Cumberland, to Borkesville 870 .»*3i|»if^i«i» Total navigation 8.967 KoTB.— Steamboats have ascended the Des Moines to Des Moines City, Iowa River to Iowa City, Cedar River to Cedar Rapids, and the Maquo- keta to Maquoketa City, bat only during tempo- fary floods. ■i i."-J,» »J i-i.ir';-j.-. ^? ,r "It would thus appear that the internal navigation of the Upper Mississippi Val- ley is about 9,000 miles in extent; but, during the summer months, even through the main channels, it becomes precarious, and at times is practically suspended. "The Mississippi Valley, viewed as a whole, may be regarded as one g^eat plain between two diverging coast ranges, ele- vated fVom 400 to 800 feet above the sea. St. Paul, the head of the navigation of tho Mississippi, is 800 feet above the ocean; Pittsburgh, at the junction of the Monon- gahela and Alleghany, forming the Ohio, 699 feet ; Lake Superior on the north, 600 feet ; but the water-shed on the west, at South Pass, rises to nearly 7,500 feet. "It is traversed by no mountain ranges, but the surface swells into hills and ridges, and is diversified by forest and prairie. Leaving out the sterile portions west of the Missouri, the soil is almost uniformly fertile, easily cultivated, and yields an abundant return. The climate is healthy and invigorating, and altogether the region is the most attractive for immig^ration of any portion of the earth." By means of a Ship Canal, connectinc: with the Illinois River, the waters of the Mississippi will be'united with the waters of Lake Michigan — thus forming an un- interrupted navigation for armed Yesselfl of a large class from the Gulf of Mexico to the Gulf of St. Lawrence, forming an inland navigation of about 3,000 miles- running through the sub-tropical and temperate zones, where nature ia nost lavish of her gifts. ■ill ,st- PHYSICAL CHARAGTEB OF THE ST. LAWREHCE. »^ The sources of the Mississippi on the east interlock with those of the St. Law- rence, which, with its associated lakes- and rivers, presetnts a system of water- ■ooBDmunioatioD of nearly equal extent aad ■grandeur. iiacxiiMii 'k ■^iz,-:'i^Ms^'-' Mi ■la PUVBICAL nrARACTlR OF TIIK ST. LAWRVVCI — DIVXLOPMINT. 21 Kblb SHowma the niMBysiovs or the riVB ORBAT AMERICAN LAKES. Lakmm. MIVm. Superior 460 Miclilgan 8'iO Ilunm 260 Krie 240 )nUrio 180 OrMtMt OrcntMt Height laneth. brtadth. abov* Ma MllM. F««U no 600 86 &76 160 574 70 5<6 60 ,*ft.r"' i> ArM III nq. mllM, 81,&00 22,000 20,400 9,600 6,fi00 ToUl., .1,460. 90,000 " Tho entire area drained by these lakes U estimated at 336,500 square miles, and their shore lines are nearly 6,000 miles in extent. " These rivers are as diverse in charac- Iter as in direction. The Mississippi is the {longer, but the St. Lawrence discharges [the greater volume of water; the one abounds in difficult rapids, the other in stupendous cataracts ; the one is subject to great fluctuations, the other preserves an almost unvarying level; the waters of the one are turbid, those of the other pos- I Bess an almost crystal purity; the one I affords few lake-like expansions, the other f swells into vast inland seas. Both have become the great highways of commerce, enriching the regions through whion they flow, and supplying the inhabitants with the '.'iried firfKlucta of distant climes." — Foster and Whitney's Report on Lake Supe- rior. ••The commerce of these lakes, whose annual vahio reaches $460,000,000 — more than twice the external commerce of the whole country — is earned on by a fleet of 1,643 vessels, of the following classes: — Stoftmcrs 148 Propellers 2^ BarkB 74 Brij?» 86 Schooners 1,068 Slo'jps 16 Barg«s 8 Totals 1,648 418,026 $18,257,020 The following are the distances of some of the commercial routes, taking Chicago as the initial point : Chicago to Mackinac (direct) 860 milac »' "* Fond "■■' ■>>; The first colony of English extraction, planted in the territory of the Upper Mis- sissippi, was in 1788 — just seventy-five years ago— at Marietta^ within the present limits of Ohio. This was the origin of that spirit of colonization, which, within the lifetime of many living men, has peo- pled this region with nine millions of hu- man beings; has subdued and brought under cultivation, an area greater than that of all the cultivated lands of the Brit- ish Empire ; has connected the principal commercial points with a net- work of rail- ways more than eleven thousand miles in extent; and has built up a domestic in- .dustry, the value of whose annual product is in excess of three hundred and fifty millions of dollars. .Out of this territory ha- 9 been carved not less than nine States, which are indissolubly linked together by a similarity of conditions in soil and cli- mate, and by the geographical features of the country. They have already received the appellation of the " Food-pboducino" States — an appellation which they are destined to retain for all time. . The rivers and the lakes, which water this region, offer the most magnificent sys- tem of internal communication to be found on the surface of the earth. No mountain barriers interpose to divide the people in- to hostile clans, or divert the great cur- rents of trade in their flow to the markets of tho world. With a soU sufficiently rich in organic matter for fifty successive crops ; with almost boundless fields of coal, stored •* ^,. ,„ *i 22 MAGNTTUniE OP THE LAKIB. away for Aiture use ; with vast depoRits of the usefal ores, and the precious metals, on the rim of the great basin ; and with a climate most favorable to the develop- ment of human energy, it is impossible for the mindf even in its most daring spec- ulations, to assign limits to the growth of the North-west When all of these ele- ments of wealth, now in a crude state, shall have been fidly developed, there will be an exhibition of human power and greatness such as no other people ever at- tained. Oomparing the whole superfloial oon- tonts of these States with the portions cul- tivated, it will be seen that only about 16 per cent, of the surface has been sub- dued ; and, if population and cultivation increase in the same ratio in the fViture aa they have in the past, before the lapse of another decado there wiU be collected an<- nually, on the borders of the Great Lakes, more than 200,000,000 bushels of cereals for exportation, giving employment to a fleet of more than 3,000 vessels, and re- quiring avenues of more than twice tha capacity of existing ones. w-'' A LTIHAE TIDAL WAVE In the If orth American Ijakea. •>•>.. T4,i- Extrfitjrom a Paper read ly Lt.-Gol. Graham, before the American AseociaUonfor (h* .,., Advancement of Science, Atigustj IBSO. ^ ,,., , "Much has been written, at various periods, on the fluctuations in the eleva- tion of the surface waters of the great freshwater lalces of North America. Val- uable and interesting memoirs have ap- peared from time to time in the American Journal of Science and Arts, published monthly at New Haven, Connecticut, within the last thirty years, on this sub- ject, written by the late Brevet Brigadier- General Henry Whiting, of the U. S. Ar- my, when a captain, by Major Lachlan, Charles Whittlesey, Esq., and others. The observations contained in their me- moirs have, however, been directed chiefly to investigations of the extent of the sec- ular and annual variations in elevation of the surfaces of these lakes. " The learned Jesuit fathers of the time of Marquette, a period near two centuries ago, and at later periods the Baron do la Hcntan, Charlevois, Carver, and others, noticed in their writings the changes of elevation, and somo peculiar fluctuations which take place on these inland seas. In the speculations indulged in by some of these writers a slight lunar tide is sometimes suspected, then again such an influence on the swelling and receding waters is doubted, and their disturbance is attributed to the varying courses and forces of the winds. " But we have nowhere seen that any systematic course of observation was ever instituted and carried on by these early explorers, or by any of their successors who have mentioned the subject, giving the tidal readings at small enough inter- vals of time apart, and of long enough duration to develop the problem of a diur- nal lunar tidal wave on these lakes. The general idea has undoubtedly been that no such lunar influence was here percep- tible. "In April, 185'i, I was stationed at Chicago by the orders of the Govern- ment, and charged with the direction of the harbor improvements on Lake Mich- igan. In the latter part of August of that year, I caused to bo erected at the ▲ LUNAR TIDAL WAVK. east or lakeward extremity of tho North harbor pier, a permantint tide-gauge for ttio purpose of making daily obsenratioDS uf t*ie relative heights and flnotuatiuns of the aurfaeu of this hUce. The position thus chosen for the observi^tions projects into the lake, entirely beyond the mouth of the Chicago River, and altogether out of the reach of any influence from the river current, upon the fluctuations of the tide-gauge. It was the fluctuations of tho lake surface alone, that could affect the reading^ of the tide- gauge. " On the first day of September, 1854, a course of observations was commenced on this tide-gauge, and continued at least once a day, until the Slst day of Decem- ber, inclusive, 1858. During each of the tlrst three winters a portion of the daily observations was lost, owing to the tide- gauge being frozen fast in its box, but they constituted only a small number in proportion to that embraced in the series. During the subsequent winters artificial means were resorted to, to prevent this freezing. "These observations were instituted chiefiy for the purpose of ascertaining with accuracy tiie amount of the annu^ and also of the secular variation in the elevation of the lake surface, with a view to regulating the heights of break-waters and piers to be erected for the protection of vessels, and for improving the lake harbors." After a series of dose observations from 1854 to 1858, Lieut. -Colonel Graham ob- serves: — " The difference of elevation of the lake SOTface, between the periods of lunar low and lunar high-water at the mean spring tides is here shown to be two hundred and fifty-four thousandths (.254) of a foot, and the time of high- water at the full and change of the moon Is shown to bo thirty (30) minutes after the time of tho moon'a meridian transit " We, therefore, in accordance with cua torn in Uke cases, indicate as the uUMisK' mint for the port of Chicago, h. m. r „ i Foot, 30. " Although this knowledge may be of but small practical advantage to naviga- tors, yet it may serve as a memorandum of a physical phenomenon whose exist- ence has generally heretofore been either denied or doubted. " We think it probable that, if the ef- feet of unfavorable winds and all other extraneous forces which produce irregular oscillations in the elevation of the lake surface could be fully eliminated, a seaii- diurnal lunar spring tide would be shown of as much as one-third of a foot for the periods of highest tides. The time of low-water and the relative times of duration of the flood and ebb tides arc given only approximately. The extreme rise of the tide being so little, the precise time of tho change from ebb to flood, and hence the duration of the flow of each, can only be accurately de- termined by numerous observations at short intervals, say three to five minutes of time apart, from about an hour before to an hour after the actual time of low- water. " In conclusion, we offer the above ob- servations as solving the problem in ques- tion, and as proving the existence of a semi-diurnal lunar tildal wave on Lake Michigan, and consequently on the other great freshwater lakes of North America, whose co-ordinate of altitude is, at its summit, as much as .15 to .25 {i^^ to -^ of a foot, United States' measure." % '/it t ! J.,"«''»^' V'*'.' ''' "♦-i".'^'^ 34 MAGNITUDE OF THE LAKES. '-:Nlf*'- BEHAEKABLE PHEHOMEHA. r?-.. -.,.1 ^ *^ Prof, Mather, who observed the bar- ometer at Fort "Wilkins, Copper Harbor, 47* 30' north lat., during the prevalence of one of these remarkable disturbances ' which are peculiar to all the Upper Lakes, remarks : — " As a general thing, fluctua- tions in the barometer accompanied the fluctuations in the level of the water, but sometimes the water-level varied rapidly in the harbor, while no such variation occurred in the baromofcer at the place of observation. The variation in the level df the water may be caused by varied barometnc pressure of the air on the water, either at the place c^ observation, 07 at some distant point. A local in- ordased pressure of the atmosphere at the place of observation, would lower the water-level where there is a wide expanse of water ; or a diminished pressure, under the same circumstances, would cause the water to rise above its usual Ir-^el." In the summer of 1864, according to the Report of Foster and Whitney, niade to Congress in 1850,^ "an extraordinary retrocession of the waters took place at the Saut Ste Marie. The river here is nearly a mile in width, and the depth of water over the^i^andstone rapids is about three feet. The phenomena occurred at noon ; the day was calm but cloudy ; tho water retired suddenly, leaving the bed of the river bare, except, for the distance of about twenty rods where the channel is. deepest^ and remained so for the space of an hour. Persons went out and caught fish in the pools formed in the rocky cavi- ties. The return of the waters was sud- den, and presented a sublime spectacle. They came down like an immense surge, roaring and foaming, and those who had incautiously wandered into the river bed, had barely time to escape being over* whelmed." 7*-. I Bifling and Falling^ of the Waters of Lake Miclugan. ..i..,^.^ ., . [From the Chieago 7Hiytm0, May 2S, 1861.'] . . .> One of those singular oscillations in the Lakes, or "Inland Seas," which have been observed occasionally fVom the time of the exploration of the Jesuit Fathers, was witnessed yesterday in Lake Michi- gan. A variety of signs, such as the mirage of the distant shore, unusual de- pression of the barometer, and a sudden rise of the temperature from a cool, bracing air, to a sultry heat, indicated an unusual commotion in the atmospheric elements. About eleven o'clock a. m., when our at- tention was first called to the phenomena, the waters of the lake had risen about thirty-one inches above the ordinary level, and in the course of half an hour they •gain receded. Throughout the whole day they continued to ebb and flow at in- tervals of fifteen or twenty minutes, and the current between the outer and inner breakwater, near the Illinois Central Raif- road House, was so great at times that a row-boat made Uttle or no headway against it. The extreme variation between high and low water was nearly three feet. The wind all day \/as off shore (from the southwest), the effect of wh'.^b was to keep down the waters instead of accumu- lating them at this point. About eight o'clock in the evening it veered suddenly to the northwest, and blew a violent gale, accompanied by vivid electrical displays. This morning (Monday) we hear of tele- graphic lines prostra .^d, of persons killed by lightning, ro,>he.sied results of such vast magnitude, he would have been denominated an idb dreamer, and a fit subject for a lunatic asrlura. " The States and Territories bordering on, and tributary to the great lake basio that had fifby years ago but a few thousand population, have now nearly seven millions, which will soon be augmented by the natural increase and by immigration to thirty millioi s, and Buffalo with its 500 inhabitants iu 1811, 81,000 in 1860, will have a population of three or four hun- dred thousand before the present century shall have passed away. Within the lim- its of these lake States, where, less than forty years ago, there were neither canals nor railways, there are now 14,484 miles of railway, and 3,345 miles of navigable canals, of which latter about 760 miles are slack-water navigation. **The whole West and Northwest 'a now traversed by a net-work of railways, with important canal connections between the different States, where there was a sparsely populated, almost intermtuable forest or uninhabited prairie. In this march of improvement, making more in- timate the social and commercial relations of these widely separated sections of the country, the Empire State has nobly led the way. The far-seeing mind of her honored son, Governor Clinton, projected the Erie Canal which was completed in 1825, uniting the waters of the Hudson with the lakes. A brighter day then dawned upon the West, the population was rapidly augmented, which was soon succeeded by largely increased agricultu- ral productions that gave new life to com- merce. The era of railways was com- meuced iu about the year 1830. " With these largely increased rail fa- cilities, and the capacity of the New York I and railway facilities for transportation at I canals nearly quadrupled, the augmenting 28 COMMERCE OP THE LARES. facilities do tiot keep pace with the rapid- ly augmenting population and largely in- creased production. Tinproved channels of communication, both by rail and water, must be made, to enable the producer at the West to get his products more cheap- ly to market. A country vast in extent, bordering upon the upper Mississippi, the Ohio, Cumberland, Tennessee, Arkansas, Red, and Missouri rivers and their tribu- taries, and the Red river of the North, traversed by more than twenty thousand miles of navigable waters, will soon be densely peopled; new States to the west of those already admitted will soon knock for admission into the Union; the supera- bundant products of an almost inexhaust- ible fertility will be pouring over the lakes and railways, and through the rivers and canals, imparting activity to trade, giving life, strength and vital energy to the large- ly augmenting commerce of the West. As the star of empire westward wends its way, widening the distance from the great sea-board marts of trade, the prospective wants and increased productions of scores of millions of people will from necessity create cheaper and more expeditious facil- ities for the transportation of their surplus products to market. There is no country on the face of the globe that has so many natural advantages for a large and extend- ed internal trade as the great West and Northwest. "The great basin east of the Rocky Mountains is drained by the Mississippi and Missouri Rivers and their tributaries, and their waters find an outlet in the Gulf of Mexico. The great lakes, having en area equal to one twenty-fifth part of the Atlantic Ocean, are drained by the river St. Lawrence, and find an outlet in the Gulf of St. Lawrence. The construc- tion of a few miles of canal makes a nav- igable connection from the ocean to the great chain of lakes. These natural ad- vantages have been improved to some ex- tent in the United States by the construc- tion of a canal through the State of New York, that now has a prism forty-five feet at the bottom and seventy feet at the top with seven feet of water, with locks 18 feet 6 inches wide by 100 feet long. There is also a canal one hundred miles long connecting the Illinois river with lake Michigan at Chicago, and slack water navigation connecting Green Bay, Wiscon- sin, with the Mississippi river. By the construction of a ship canal about three- fourths of a mile in length, from Big Stone Lake to Lake Traver in Minnesota^ steamboats f^om St. Paul could navigate both the Minnesota river and the Red river of the North to Lake Winnepeg, a diotance of seven hundred miles. The country traversed by these rivers is sur- passingly fertile and capable of sustaining a dense population. Lake Winnepeg is larger than Lake Ontario, and receives the Sas-katch-e-wan river from the West. Tiie Sas-katch-e-wan river is navigable to a point (Edmonton House) near the Rocky Mountains, seven hundred miles west of Lake Winnepeg, and only 150 miles cast of the celebrated gold diggings on Frazer river in British Columbia. The digging of that one mile of canal, would, there- fore, enable a steamboat at New Orleans to pass into Lake Winnepeg and from thence to Edmonton House, some 5,000 miles. A move has already been made for constructing this short canal. By en- larging the Illinois and Michigan canal and improving the navigation of the Illi- nois river, and improving and completing the slack water navigation of the Fox river in Wisconsin, connecting Green Bay witli the Mississippi river, and still fur- ther enlarging the main trunk of the New York canals, steamers could be passed from New York or the Gulf of St. Law- rence, either through tlie canals of New York or Canada into the great lakes, and from thence to the head waters of the Sas-katch-e-wan, the Missouri, the Yellow Stone rivers, being some 5,000 to 6,000 FIRST STBAMBOAT ON LAKE ERfB. 20 miles. The coreal product of the States bordering on and tributary to the lakes was 267,295,877 bushels in 1840; 434,- 862,661 bushels in 1850, against 679,031,- 659 bushels in 1860, and the population of these States has kept pace with their cereal products, being 6,259,345 in 1840; 9,178,003 in 1850, against 13,355,093 in 1860, au increase of nearly fifty per cent, in population and cereal products in each decade. If tho same rate per cent, of in- crease in population and cereal products shall be continued, these States in 1870 will have a population of 20.032,639, with a cereal product of 1,008,557,338 bushels; in 1880, a population of 30,048,958, with a cereal product of 1,512,821,000 bushels ; in 1890, a population of 55,073,437, with a cereal product of 2,269,231,610 bushels, and in 1900 a population of 67,610,155, i with a cereal product of 3,403,847,265. '* The grain trade of Buffalo for a series of years, given in this report, has already reached upwards of 72,000,000 bushels for the year 1862. If a crop of 680,000,000 of bushels of cereal products, gives Buf- falo 72,000,000 of bushels of that crop; in the year 1900, with a crop of 3,403,- 847,265 bushels of cereal products, the grain trade of Buffalo will be upward of 360,000,000 of bushels. The calculations of the forty years of the future are baaed on the actual results of the last thirty years. The year 1870 will give to Buffalo a grain trade of upwards of 107,000,000 of bushels, and if there shall be a propor- tionate increase in the grain trade of Oswego, the present capacity of the New York canals will be entirei^ inadequate to pass through them tliis large amount of grain in addition to the large increase in the tonnage of other commodities, say- ing nothing of the capacity that will be required for the augmented business in 1880, 1890, and 1900." The Flmt Steamboat on I^ake Erie. r ■m The Detroit Tribune furnishes some in- teresting extracts on tliis subject, taken from the files of the Detroit Gazette, of 1818. We select the following descrip- tion of tho reception of this monster of the great deep by the '• Wolverinea^^ of that day. "August 26, 1818: — Yesterday, be- tween the hours of 10 and 11 a. m., the elegant steamboat Walk-in-the- Water, Capt J. Fish, arrived. — As she pasaed the pub- lic wharf, and that owned by Mr. S. S. Roby, she was cheered by hundreds of the inhabitants, who ha4 collected to wit- ness this (in these waters) truly novel and grand spectacle. She came to at Wing's wharf She left Buffalo at half-past 1 o'clock on the 23d, and arrived off Dun- kirk at 35 minutes past 6 on the same day. On the next morning she arrived at Erie, Capt. Fish having reduced her steam during the night, in order not to pass that place, where she took in a sup- ply of wood. At half-past 7 p. m. she left Erie, and came to at Cleveland at 11 o'clock. On Friday, at 20 minutes past 6 o'clock, p. M., sailed and arrived off Sandusky Bay at 1 o'clock on Wednesday ; lay at anchor during the night, and then pro- ceeded to Venice to wood ; left Venice at 3 p. M., and arrived at tho mouth of the Detroit River, where she anchored during the night— the whole time employed in sailing, in this first voyage from Buffalo to this, being about 44 hours and 10 min- utes ; the wind ahead during nearly the whole passage. Not the slightest accident happened during the voyage, and all our machinery worked admirably. " Nothing could exceed the surprise of the sons of the forest on seeing the Walk- in-the- Water moving majestically and rap- idly against a strong current, without the assistance of sails or oars. They lined the banks near Maldon, and expressed ■■■■i 30 COMMKROX OF THE LAKES. their astonishment by repeated shouts of ' Tai-yoh nichec.^ A report had been cir- culated among them, that a ^big canoe^ would soon come from the noisy waters, which, by order of the great father of the Cho-mo-ho-mims, would be drawn through the lakes and rivers by sturgeon I Of the truth of the report they are now per- fectly satisfied. The cabins of this boat are fitted up in a neat, convenient, and elegant style ; and the manner in which she is found, docs honor to tho proprie- tors and to her commander. A passage between this place and Buffalo is now not merely tolerable, but truly pleasant. To- day she will make a trip to Lake St. Clair, with a large party of ladies and gentle>- men. She will leave for Buffedo t^mor^ row, and may be expected to visit m again next week." ' u.i S '>*?• » TABLE^ ■X >i -# * tv ik 7 1"'. .. ).,^ - f < » ( ,.» 5 { . vr V "... i Sm* r.-**^':. *. it «< '•t't '. -! I '.{,'- ^ V ExHiBiTiiro THB ToHHASB (/^> " -65,562 41 u It II '«...«....« - 'Jt'"j''*:*i- II (}enesee Niagara, BuflEklo. Dunkirk Presque Isle (Erie) . . Pennsylvania Cuyahoga (Cleveland) Ohio Sandusky " Toledo " Detroit Michigan. Detroit River Michilimackinac .... " Huron Chicago . , Illinois. Michigan. . . . Milwaukee Wisconsin '* Minnesota , . . Supejrio' . . . , 2,981 84 " 774 48 Brie 108,224 00 4,274 26 (I II II II i< 7,369 09 82,618 87 16.860 24 61468 70 66,887 89 4,747 69 86,743 66 27,048 19 TotalTonnage 600,466 90 *? i -r L I j,j. ^ -« *. > ! >l(. ^ ^ ^t li; M OAJSADlkXt XVLAHD AXO OOSAN NAVIGATIOir. c:-'^ 81 1' 1 LAKE C0XMS2CE. Commerce of Bullhlo— 1994. '■»",T I';/ ^- t,.., / • fl M. The following statement shows the «r« rivals and clearances at and from BulDTalo of American and Foreign vessels to and fVom Canadian ports; also the arrivals s~*'\ clearances of American vessels to from American ports, the tonnage of same, aud the number of men com* ng the crews arriving and departing ; . ..9 comparative Statement of the same for a series of years : i Fran qvAwntn. No. VmmU. CkMSting vesMls entered ... 1 A merican vessels entered . . 805 Forelffn vessels entered CoMting vessels cleared American vessels cleared .. 865 409,165 4,015 Foreign vessels cleared.... Tonnag*. ' 844 409,165 Ciwws, 9 4,015 Totals 671 818,674 8,089 SKOOKO gCAKTKB. • ' NowVeMelfc Coasting vessels entered . . . 1,560 American vessels entered . . 872 Foreisn vessels entered . . . 217 Oottsting vessels cleared.. .1,685 American vess«;ls cleared . . 482 Foreign vessels cleared 207 Tonnage. 59i478 898,497 19,729 650,197 409.2S5 6,474 Crewa. 18,076 4,158 1,046 19.668 4,586 1,0SS Totals 4,523 2,082,655 48,571 )•},. V :< TniRD QUARTER. No. Veuelt. Coasting vessels entered ..1,744 American vessels entered . . 465 Foreign vessels entered . . . 845 Coasting vessels cleared . . .1,880 American vessels cleared . . 496 Foreign vessels cleared .... 842 Tonnmge. 681,791 888,741 26,261 693,485 406,684 81,571 Cr«w». 21,847 4,250 1,794 21,508 4,228 V TotaU 5,282 2,228,548 54,710 Coasting vessels entered . . . American vesdels entered . Foreign vessels entered . . . Coasting vessels cleared . . . American vessels cleared. . Foreign vessel* cleared.. . roVRH qVAMTKL H» VmmIil Toaaifi, 1,064 481,477 461 449,865 864 96,481 948 882,609 467 444,789 266 26,862 Crawa. 18,011 4679 1,888 11,727 4.660 1,865 Totals 8,669 1,761,476 86,861 i • '-.« twit BUMMABT FOB TAB TBAB 1861 N& Tonnafa. Crtwa. American vessels entered.. 1,668 1,641,258 17,102 Foreign vessels entered . . 926 72.424 4,229 Coasting vessels entered.. 4,868 1,708,086 62,442 Total entered for the year.. 6,958 8,421,767 78,178 J* No. Tonnafa. Crtwa, American vessels cleared. .1,810 1,669,888 17,424 Foreign vesrels cleared ... H14 64,407 4.066 Coasting vessels cleared. . .4,523 1,785.291 52,898 Total cleared for the year.. 7,147 8,468,681 i 14,898 Grand Total 1864... • 1 -r ...14,105 6.891,848 148,161 b* u 1868... ...1^876 6,767.908 167.415 M u 1862... ...1&890 6.6»9,181 166^188 tt it 1861... ...18,866 5.963,586 141,178 u u 1860... ...11,627 4,710,175 120,497 kk u 1860... ...10,521 6.592,626 118,109 t( Ik 1858... ... a313 8,829,246 86,887 u u 1867... ... 7,581 8,226.006 132,188 «t It 1866... ... 8,128 8,018,689 112,051 tt M 1866... . . 9,211 8,860.283 111,675 t» tt 1864... ... 8,912 8,990.284 120,888 u u 1868... ... 8,298 3,252,978 128,112 u u 1862... ... 9,441 8,092,247 127,481 Canadian Inlaud and Oeean NaTlgatton. The following, . from a pamphlet pub- lished in Montreal^ pictures in glowing colors the advantages to bo derived from the great iiiUand water high ways of the Canadian Provinces: "Montreal, at the head of sea navigation proper, is the port for the great chain of river, lake, and cmdl navigatioo, whkh extends west- 32 i I OOMMKBCC or THS LAXXS* • «f i «! »»■ t»l ward to Fond du Lac, Lake Superior, and Chicago, on Lake Michigan, a distance of about fifteen hundred miles, embracing the largest extent of inland water com- munication in the world." For extent of lake and river navigation, see page 16. Canadian Can'alf. Lrarth in ml LtehiM :.". .... :V.- . . . 8* Betuharnois Hi Cornwall Hi Farrand^s Point Rapid Plat Point IroqaolB Gallop's Welland. .'... 28 Na rth in Depth iTIm. in tUt. Lift, fMk' Lock*. 9* 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 441 82i 48 4 IH 6 8 880 Totals......; «• M0| 27 M Proposed Ottawa Ship Canal. The saving in the distance between Montreal and Chicago, by this direct route, over the present circuitous line through the Lower Lakes and the St. Lawrence, is 842^ miles. It has 64 locks, with a total lift of 665i feet. The work, in quality at least equal to the St. Law- rence Canals, is estimated to cost $12,- 057,680, exclusive of the Lachine Canal, which is already completed. It is dis- tributed in the following divisions, natural and artificial: Lachine MilMOf River and Laka. MllM of Canal. 8.&0 Lake St Loola ... 18.81 St. Anne's 1-19 Lake of Two Mountains. . , Carillon to Grenville Green Shoals ... 24.70 ... 7.78 6.00 .10 Ottawa lilver ... 65.9T Chaudi^re des Chenes Des Chenes Lake ... 8.75 ... 26.89 2.61 Chats i.. , . 1.70 .60 Chats' Lake .'. Snow's to Black Falls. . . . . Klver and Lake Goulonge. Cbonean and L*Islet. .:': 19.28 ... 18.82 ... 24.98 ... 4.86 1.06 .14 Peep River , ... 88.58 Joicbim'B to Mattawan . . . ... 61.T4 2.88 \\ ♦If %; J MIlMof MilMOf lUvar and Lakai Canal. River MatUwan 16.22 Snmmit Level and Oat 61 . 16 French JSiver 47.52 Total 401.44 1.06 6.97 .82 29.82 This extensive line of interior waters, with short land portages, formed for many years the principal route for the vessels and voyageurs of the Hudson Bay Com- pany and the Northwest Company. »«;. No. S(M Lift of Locks. Lock*. Loekc 71 110x18 669 112 90x16 1,489 11 110x18 761 27 90x15 277 49 90x15 155 116 110x18 1,015 18 90x16 155 100 a • • • 1,082 88 110x18 • • • • • • • • a • • • 100x16 227 7 90x16 60 2 120x801 16* sir THevi York Canals. Lbnotu, Sizb, Looks, sra *•' Length. ' i i> . i Erie (enlarged) 860^ Genesee Valley and Extension 124f Cayuira and Seneca . . . 241 Crooked Lake 8 Chemung tSc Feeder... 89 Chenango 97 Oswego 88 Black Kivertfe Feeder. 60 Black River Imp't.... 42^ Champlain 66^ Glens Falls Feeder ... 7 Oneida Lake 7 Oneida River Imp't... 20 Oneida Lake 28 The ESrie and Champlain Canals, when first completed in 1825, had a prism 28 feet wide at the bottom, and 40 feet wide at the surface of the water, which was four feet in depth. The chambers of the locks were 90 feet long by 15 feet wide, admitting boats 75 feet long, carrying about 45 to 50 tons. The w'-^ of the present locks is given in tne foiegoing' table. The boats now navigating the Erie and Oswego Canals have a burden of about 225 to 250 tons in six feet draught of water. The Erie Enlarged Canal has 71 locks, with a total lift of 660 feet, and the Oswe- go Canal has la lodcB, with a total lift of 165 feet. BRB A !>BTUFF8 — FI8HSBXB8— FISH . 83 The grain trade of the great West and Northwest is yet in its infancy. Everv year the population is augmented by emi- gration from the Eastern and Middle States as well ,a8 from Europe. The strong arms of freemen are bringing un- der cultivacttoh the broad prairies upon wnich the indusstrious and enterprising settlers scatter broad-cast the seed, to be returned to them again in fields of waving grain, from which will be rea|)ed a boun- tiful harTest , ' ■ ■■ ■'* . r^ '' ■ '-..lit,':,;'. ^i-.:lJ ■•♦ '■<) V«4 .' Imports of Breadstnffs into Great Britain. >. The following Arom the London Times will show the imports of breadstuff's into Great Britain for the years 1860, 1861, and 1862, ending December 31st in each year, VIZ.: 1860. 1861. 1862. 5,139,188 6,331,375 7,314,317 5,903,175 6,966,844 9,542,362 1,885,694 3,106,595 2,761,265 2,308,380 1,875,574 1,622,919 2,122,016 1,407,501 1,863,683 96,898 54,142 1,694 317,548 402,933 230,132 • • • • 714 5,143 440,860 664,477 479,758 Wheat, Flour, Meal, owt Wheat., qrs. of 8 bush , Corn, " " , Oats, " " Barley, " " Rye, " " Peas, " " Buckwheat, " " Beans, " " Total Grain, qrs. 8 bush ..... . 13,044,471 14,377,780 16,496,966 /^ The Times says: "The accounts have now been made up of the quantities of grain and flour imported into Great Bri- tain on the last year and preceding years since the introduction of free trade, and the result is remarkable, showing an ex- traordinary inc 'ease during the past year. Taking wheat and flour alone, we find that the lowest year was 1835, when the quantity of wheat imported into Great Britain was only 46,530 quarters, and of flour 84,684 owt.,.whae in 1862, no less than 9,541,362 quarters of wheat, and 7,314,317 cwt. of flour were imported into the various ;^rts of the country." The increase in 1862 over 1861 is 982,- 942 cwt. of flour, and 2,676,518 quarters of wheat. There is a decrease on Indian corn of 355,330 quarters. " FISHEBIES-FISH. M. ■? In the Sandusky bay, in the Maumee bay and Maumee river, in the Monroe bay, in the Detroit river, in the St Glair river and rapids, in Lake Huron, from Huron to Point aux Barques, in the Au Sable river, in Thunder bay above Au Sable river, including Sugar Island, in Saginaw bay and river, in Tawas bay, between Thunder bay and Mackinac, in- cluding Hammond's bay, in and about Mackinac at Beaver Island and its sur- roundings, between the De Tour and the Sault, along the Eastern shore of Lake Michigan, in Green bay, in Wisconsin and Michigan, at Presque Isle, Pa., in Lake Superior's numerous bays and in- lets, are found the principal fishing . f. 94 COMMEKCC OF THK LAKI8. grounds of the lakes; and the annual catch ranges from 60 to 100 thousand barrels, v^ued at four to six hundred thousand dollars. The lake fisheries are only second to the cod fisheries off the Atlantic coast, from Cape Cod Bay to Gape Breton, and are a source of very considerable wealth. The stock here will, probably, not ex- ceed twenty-five hundred packages : Lakb Imports op Fish. tin, Bbk TMn. 1854 11,762 18fi0.. 18U T,241 I860.. 1866 6,260 1861.. 1867..., 6,290 1869.. 1868 4,208 BMt. 18,.«91 26,666 8,818 8,647 LUMBEB AND STAVES. The Lundber and Stave trade constitutes a yery large portion of the freight carried on the lakes and canals, and is only second to g^ain. The larger portion uf the East- ward movement usually takes place in mid- summer, when low rates of transporta- tion rule. The principal sources of sup- ply are the States of Ohio, Indiana, Mich- igan, Canada West, and Pennsylvania, of which more than fifty per cent, is from Michigan alone. In the northern penin- sula of that State, in and around Saginaw, at Port Huron, on St. Clair river, are the largest and finest lumber districts in the West and Northwest. The supply of staves is derived from Ohio, Indiana, Michigan, Wisconsin, and Canada West, of which more than eighty per cent, of the receipts at Buffalo come from the States first mentioned. * '-■":'"' The following will show the imports at Buffalo of staves and lumber from 1846 to 1862, inclusive, and the canal exports ^om 1849 to 1862, inclusive: ./ Lake Impobtb. i T«iin. SUtm, No. 1846 10.762,600 JS47 8,80O/K)0 l»48 a,091,000 . It49 14,188.608 fsW) 18^6W,8e0 1851 10,696,006 1852 12,998,614 1868 9,215,240 1864 15,464,554 1856 16,421,668 1866 18,666^009 1867 28,024,218 J868 1M19,019 1860 28,277,028 1860 28,807,889 1861 26,228,978 1862 80,410,263 Lamfwr, ftA U.686,000 : 18,818,000 91,425,000 88,98.\76S 6»,076.009 68,006,000 72,887,225 89,294,01 K) 67,407,008 72,026,661 60,684,812 68,288,819 67,069,178 111,072,446 111,094,496 68,082,718 126,289,971 COFPEB-LAKE 8TJPEBI0B. The Copper Mines of Lake Superior wer'? first brought into public notice in 1845, when speculation was rife in all that spur of the Porcupine Mountains on the south shore of Superior, extending far into the lake, having for its base a line drawn across L'Anso Bay to Ontonagon. This was then the Northern El Dorado. In this year operations were commenced at the Minnesota mine, which is about fifteei: miles back of Ontonagon. The first large mass of native copper, weighing about seven tons, was found in a pit dug by the original lords of the soil. It ip now only fourteen years since thia mine was opened. At that time the rapids in the Sault St. Marie prevented the pas- sage of vessels from the lower lakes, and the adventurers that sought out this new El Dorado, had many obstacles to over- come. The courtry was then covered by a vast wilderness, without inhabitants, ex- cepting a few Indiana. All supplies were brought from the lower lakes, and then had to be passed over the Portage at St. Mary, and thence carried in frail vessels coasting to tl>e westward, hundreds of miles to the cop- per regions, and then carried on the back COPPKR — LAK. SUPERIOR. 85 of man and beaat to the supposed places of the copper deposit. Kvery stroke of the pick was made at a cost ten-fold more than ia populated districts, every disaster delayed operations for weeks and even months. The opening of the St Mary Canal, in 1856, has produced a wondrous change in 1 all this wilderness region. The only set- tlements on the south shore of the lake, at the present~~time, are Marquette, Port- age Lake, Ontonagon, Copper Harbor, Eagle Harbor, Eagle River, and the ad- jacent mines — all else is a vast wilderness, without sign of human habitation. The Copper region is divided into the three districts of Ontonagon, Keweenaw Point, and Portage Lake. Since 1845, 120 Copper Mining Companies have been or- ganized under the General Law of Michi- gan; more than six millions of dollars have been expended in explorations and mining improvements. The Minnesota and Cliff mines have declared and paid over two millions of dollars in dividends since the organization and working of those companies. Until 1 860 all the Copper of the Lake Superior mines was smelted at Detroit, Cleveland, and Boston — since which time a Boston company have erected smelting works at Portage, Lake Superior, and new smelting works have been erected at Ontonagon. There is an annual product of Copper of about 2,500 to 5,000 tons at the Wel- lington mines, Lake Huron, which are worked by a Canadian company. Product of the Coffee Districts — 1864 The total copper product of Lake Supe- rior in 1864, as per tables published in the Mining Gazette and Miner, is 8,561^ tons, producing about 6,850 tons of ingot copper, worth $6,850,000; and from each district as follows: Tont. Lb*. Keweenaw District. . . . : .2,043 809 shipned. Portage Lake " 4,2V2 1,691 pnxluced. Ontonagvn " 1,722 6U0 shipped. Total 8,661 1,000 This amount would have been from 1,500 to 2,000 tons larger had it not been for the great falling off in the products of Minnesota — the scarcity of labor in some of the districts, and its employment largely in opening new minos. Instead of the whole amount of copper thus produced having been the yield of from 10 to 16 mines, as was the case a few years ago— it is the product of 50 ; of which 18 are in tlie Keweenaw District ; 13 in the Portage Lake— which produced nearly one-half of the whole amount — and 19 in tlie Ontonagon, a fact that augurs giand results for the future. The mines are as follows: KEWEENAW DISTRICT. rSOM XAOLB HABBOB. Ten*. Lb*. Central 609 814 CopperFalls 246 815 Pennsylvania 186 1,158 Amygdaloid 83 175 Delaware 42 019 Fhcenix 8 600 Petherlck 6 1,003 Madison — 259 Total ,. 1,180 1,742 FBOM EAOUE BtTEK. Ton*. Lb& CUflfMino J,!88 1,898 Phoenix Mine 225 442 BayState 86 907 OardenOlty 11 808 St. Clair 6 098 Manhattan 2 1,129 J. Pooley (tribute from Eagle River) 1,808 Arnold. 986 Total 1,415 1,066 PORTAGE LAKE DISTRICT. Torn. Lb*. SnincyMlne 1,485 1,862 BwablcMlno 982 791 FrankUnMlne 781 880 Isle Boyale Mln« 868 1,676 !1 if 'I t 1 OOMMIRCB OF TUB LAKES. Teu Lb*. Oruid Portage Mine ..^ 816 196 Huron Mine 810 1,92« Hancock Mine 60 188 MesnardMine 28 190 SbeUlon-GwIiimbian Mine 11 028 Arcadian Mine 6 680 Albany and Boston Mine 8 040 I)«)agla8a Mlnft S l,4fi9 BtM«7'tMln« 9 600 Total 4,W2 1,691 ONTONAGON DISTRICT. Tont. Lb*. National...*..... 626 1,000 MlnnuMUMlne 487 1,000 Evergreen Bluff 224 1,600 Rockland 197 829 Knowlton 100 1,461 Bohemian 47 600 Superior 89 777 Carp Lake 86 .... Oglma 26 1,768 Flint Steel River 19 1,000 Caledonia 16 .... Norwich 12 1,864 Ridge. 12 840 Hilton 7 600 Mass 7 270 Aztec, estimited 6 .... Winona, estimated 1 .... Lake 8iii>tfrt»r 1 1,261 Adventure 1 746 ' : : ;. Total for the season 1,722 600 ' The ^tna and Empire Mines have also shipped a small amount from Copper Har- bor — a few tons. In all the Districts Copper Mining has been placed upon a firmer basis than heretofore existed, a. the development of new and rich lode j, and the large accu- mulation of machi.erj and engines for still greater developments — as at the ^tna, Empire, Pennsylvania, Delaware, Amygdaloid, and Bay State Mines, m the Keweenaw District; in the very rich openings upon the North Isle Royal lode, at the Douglass, Arcadian, and Edwards Mines, in the discovery and partial open- ing of the South Pewabic lode, and in the continued richness of the Albany and Boston conglomerate, in the Portage Lake District ; in the discovery and opening of the Winona lode — reported to be among the largest anu richest ever opened upon the lake, with new and valuable develop- ments at the many otiier mines in the Ontonagon District; with the entry and partial exploration of the 70.00U acres of copper'bearing lands upon Isle Royale — by some of the leading capitalists, as well as oldest and most successful copper men in New York City, who have organized upon it a company, known as the North American Mineral Land Co., that will at once prosecute mining vigorously and largely, — ^the explorations of the past summer having revealed the fact more fully than before known, that it abounds with very rich copper-bearing lodes, and especially upon the north side of the isl- and, where numerous fissure veins exist, carrying often heavy mass coppelr, and upon many of which are very extensive *' ancient diggings." The following will show the shipments of Copper from the several Districts of Lake Superior, from 1845 to 1864, indu' sive, viz.: AOOBBOATK BHIPHKfTS Or COPPIB ntOM LAKB SUPBBIOB. t • ' ^ . Ton*. Lbi. Vkloa^ 1846 • ••• •••• 1,800 $ 290 1846 29 2,619 1847 289 107,660 1848 616 206,400 1849 750 801,200 1860 640 266,000 1861 872 848,800 1862 887 800,450 1868 .... 1,462 608,200 1864 .... 2,800 805,000 1865 .... ai96 1,487,000 1866 .... 6,726 2,400,100 1867 .... 6,769 2,015,650 1858 .... ^896 1,610.000 1869 .... 6,041 1,<.I82.000 1860 .... 8,614 8,620,000 1861 . .. 10,887 8,180,000 1862 .... 11,790 4,78a000 1868 ...... .... 10,000 6,500,000 1864 .... 8,661 1,666 6,318,660 '•;.} jHvVsl ;.''.i IRON ORE AND IRON. \' •,M'^f^(i V' .'J'^/.f .ti'."{»rf*^j* ■ 'ii-»' ♦;?!'. 'I' *• • r' ..'fv" 'f»»''r^ yr^'r.'.^t i H. lEON OKE. •4 \ ,14 KMlrt if ^ I . •V 1^' "I r-r* 1 ', ■ / 'yu^i! '. n i" Tlie connecting of the waters of Lake Superior with the waters of Lake Huron, by the construction of a ship canal three- jfourths of a mile in length, around the -apids in the Sault St. Mury River, with prism and locks of sufficient capacity for passing the largest class of vessels navi- gating the lakes, completed very soon af- ter the discovery and working of the iron mines, has opened an already extensive commerce in iron ore, and pig-iron manu- factured cear the mines, wliich are four- teen to eighteen miles from Marquette. These mines are about seven hundred feet above the level of the lake, and are con- nected with Marquette by a railroad. To show the ris*) and progression of this trade, we give below an interesting statement from the Marquette Jotimai of a late date: THB IRON PRODnOT Or LAKK BUPEBIOB — SHIPMBMT8 or IRON ORE. IkckMrn CI«Ttl«nd Laka SupV Total Tmt. Iron Co. Iron Co. Iron Co. Gmm Tou. 1866 1,447 ..:. 1,447 1856.... 4,491 7,100 J 1,507 1857.... 18,913 12,272 26,184 1858... 11,104 19,981 81,085 1859.... 10,6«2 80,844 24,668 65.679 I860.... 41,286 42,696 83.016 116,998 1861.... 12.9J9 7,811 26.200 45,480 1862.... 42.767 85,244 87.710 115.721 1868 ... 60,798 48,676 74.057 188.426 1864.... 69,089 64,148 98,929 286,166 Total amount shipped from 1856 to 1864 Pittsburgh and IJike'Angeline, 1864. .... .888,688 . 19,000 Grand total for ten years. .852,688 Total amoont of nig iron shipp* d from Mar- quette, from 1868 to 1864 48,050 tons. )" .-. RXCAFTTULATIOir. groM. 1865 1,447 1856 11,697 1857 26,184 1868 31,086 1859 65.679 1860 116,993 1861 4^4^0 1862 116,721 18C8 188,426 186A 286,166 Tom Pif , groM. 1,627 7,253 5,660 7,970 6,690 8000 12,951 ToUl Valna. $14,470 92,776 2r»9,473 249,269 676,521 736,4C0 410,460 (M,»76 1,018,6(4 1,957,390 It will be seen from this statement that the shipments of iron ore in 1864 were 236,166 tons, against 1,447 tons in 1855 ; and 12,951 tons of pig iron in 18G4, against 1,627 tons in 1858. Marquette is the only point on Lake Superior where iron mines have been openedf although there are iron deposits in the mountains back of L' Anse. About eighteen miles from Marquette are the Iron mountains named the Lake Superior, the Jackson, the Collins, and the Cleve- land; farther back, in the St. Clair Moun- (am, now the property of tho Washington Iron Company, is a highly magnetic ore. The mines now worked are the Jackson, Cleveland, Lake Superior, Iron Mountain, Pittsburgh and Lake Angeline, and Wash- ington, but these alone contain enough iron to supply the trade for many genera- tions. Still farther back from the lake rise mountains to eight hundred feet high, covering many hundreds of acres, which, it is believed from explorations already made, are solid iron ore. There are now in operation at Marquette six iron mining companies, and six blast furnaces, for making charcoal pig-iron. The yield of these iron ores is 66]- per cent., and of the best known to the com- meroe of the world ; and smelts with less than half of the fuel he*etofore required ;l i 9a COMMSBCB OF 1|?E LAKES. 11 bv other ores of the West, thus doubling the product of a furnace without any in- crease for cost of fuel or labor — advan- tages that insure, at no remote period, a demand and annual production of millions of tons, and inevitably calculated to speedily revolutionize the whole iron trade of the West The quality of the Lake Superior iron is conceded, by all who have given it a trial, to be superior to any iron in the world, as is shown by the following anal- ysis of Professor Johnson, giving the strength per square inch in pounds : Salisbury, Conn., Iron . 6^,000 Swedish (best) 68,184 English Cable 69,105 Centre County, Pa. 59,400 Essex County, New York 69,962 Lancaster County, Penn 76,069 Common English and American 80,000 Lake Superior. 89,562 Large quantities of iron ore are taken from Marquette, Mich., to Detroit, Cleve- land, Toledo, Erie, and Buffalo. There is in the Lake Superior iron dis- trict enough ore to supply the world with iron. A new era in ship and boat build- ing is near at hand. Iron vessels will take the place of wood, when a largo amount of iron plates and beams will be required to construct iron ships and steamers. There is a network of rail- ways centring here, which will require a very large amount of railroad iron to replace that now in use. The opening of the irop. trade of Lake Superior will, in the future, have an im- portant bearing upon v/ie trade of the New York canals. The East will soon obtain its supply of pig, bar, and railroad iron from the West. With better and cheaper facilities for the transportation on the Erie Canal, the tonnage will assume a ma|2:nitude and im- portance CO' jaensurate with the demand for this all-important mineral product. lAke Superior Iron Reg^ion. The discovery of the Iron Mountain and mines of Lake Superior, situated on the upper peninsula of Michigan, was made in 1846, but owing to the cost of transhipment and transportation across the Portage at the Falls of St. Mary's River, but little was done to develop them until the completion of the St. Mary's Falls Ship Canal in 1855, whicli gave a new and lively impetus to the business, it now forming an important feature of the Lake Superior trade, employing a large number of sail-vessels and steamers. The mines at present worked are situ- ated from fourteen to twenty miles west of Marquette, on the line of the Bty de Mb' qatt and Mtrquette Jiailroad, and termina- tion of the Peninsula Railroad of Michigan, affording every needed facility for trans- jporting the ore by a down grade to the piers at Marquette and Escanaba for transhipment. The Jackson Iron Mountairiy owned and worked by tlie Jackson Iron Company, is 14 miles from Marquette , the Cleveland Mountain, bwned and worked by the Cleveland Iron Mining Company, is 2 miles beyond Marquette Iron Company in the same vicinity; the mines of the Lake Superior Iron Company are 18 miles, and the Pittsburgh and Lake Iron Mine 19 miles from Marquette, the railroad being finished two miles farther. riiree of the above companies have separate docks, besides one owned by the railroad company for general purposes, from 'which the o-o is shipped to the Eastern markets. The railroad has an as- cending grade for 11 miles, over«)miug an elovatioa of 85U foet bcioro ro.icliiug d THK TEXIXSULA EAILUOAO. 30 the Iron Mountean, which rises abrapdy about 100 feet. Other mines or mountains of iron ore are situated farther inland on the line of a proposed railroad to extend to Ontona- gou, passing near Lake Michigamme, over the rich copper region of Lake Superior. These mountains are a solid mass of iron ore, yielding from 60 to 70 per cent, of the best iron in the world. Foster and Whitney, in their report of 1856, when speaking of the Jackson and Cleveland mines, say, " It would be utter- ly impossible to give an adequate idea of the immense amount of ore at this point — it lies piled up in huge masses above the surfaco, and the depth of it cannot be determined, but probably extends farther down than ever will be dug to get it Indeed, there is enough upon the surface to last for ages, to say nothing of other localities yet to be explored." The Peiilnaula Railroad of JfHehlgaii. From the Lake Superior Mining Journal, Dee. 16, 1864. This road is now completed and run- ning daily trains through to Negaunee — the junction with the Bay de Noqutt and Marquette Railroad. The first stake was stuck on it on the 4th of July, 1863, hence it has been eighteen months in building. It is sixty-ihree and a half miles in length, and has no grade which exceeds sixty feet to the mile. It con- nects what has heretofore been '< ' , ■ ', . • f ' V ■ . •,; (_■ iiv', ! •; '• ." ■ '-. ,rr»..- - . ■- '^■^H' ^'Ith ■'-^-•<> A- ;,.r,:;i" Htf--*'- i ■>,;.:..•.?• »>'■;- • " ■.'.>v':- 4<'-'' ,/> CAKAL COMMEBCE. '■■' ',';' "•?! '*■'' ■ 3' '* ■ ' 'vi^ The construction of the Erie Caml wbs commenced in the year 1817, and the watero of Lake Erie were united with the waters of the Hudson river on the 26th of October, 1826. The first revenue from the Oswego canal was received in 1828. This work was at first suggested as early as 1816, by a memorial from the city of New York to the Legislature. As early as 1*724, Cadwallader Golden, then Sur- veyor-Greneral of the province of New York, described the route as practical to Lakes Ohamplain and Ontario. 'The Erie Canal is one of the largest and most important canals in the world. Notwithstanding the contracted scale of fhe first structure, the predictions of its projector, DeWitt Ohnton, have been more than verified. Thia woric was urged by Gov. DeWitt Clinton in 1791, and m 1792 by General Schuyler; by Surveyor-Gtenertd DeWitt in 1808, «nd at every meeting of the Legislature till 1817, when the work was commenced. In 1810 Governeur Morris, Stephen Yan Rensselaer, De Witt Clinton, Peter B. Porter, and others, were, by joint resolution of the Legislature, ap- pointed as Commissioners for exploring the route from the Hudson river to Lakes Oatario and Erie. In 1812 these Commissioners, in their report to the Legislature, estimated that, in 1832, there would be 250,000 tons brought down the canals, which estimate fell very considerably short of the amount carried on the cauals during that year. This work is 352 miles in length, from Buffalo to Albany, and 345 miles from Buffalo to Troy. The rise and fall from Lake Erie to the Hudson is 692 feet. The prism was originally 40 feet wide at the surface, and 28 feet at the bottom, aad four feet deep, with locks of sufficient size to pass boats drawing 3| feet of water, 14 feet beam by 80 feet long. The original cost of the first structure was $9,027,456. In 1835 the Legislature passed an act providing for its enlargement. Under this and other acts, the prism of the canal has been increased so as to be 70 feet on the surface, 42 feet on the bottom, and 7 feet in depth, with locks 110 feet long by 18 feet wide, passing boats 96^ feet long by 17^ feet beam, drawing 5 feet 10 inch- es to 6 feet of water. There are now 71 locks on the Erie canpl be* ^^en Buffalo and Albany, and 18 lodca 1^ , Oswego canal between Syra^ cuse vkadL Oswego. The enlargement is now completed after the plan adopted in 1835, with some modi- fications, at an additional cost oi about fifty miUions of dollars. Connecting with the main trunk of the Erie canal are the Ohamplain, 64 miles long ; the Chenango, 98 miles ; the Black River, 103 miles; the Chemung canal; the Genesee Yalley canal, besides sever- al other connecting links, making, with the Erie and Oswegt> canals, a total of 1,028 miles of canal including 100 miles of slack water n^ -Mitm connected by canals, within auu . • ging to the State of New York. •?■»■■ Cost and RBvuNrES op the New . Canals. YOBK The State Auditor, in his report to the Legislature in 1863, makes a balance sheet, from which the foUowing summary of the revenue from sources, from 1817 to and including l ;j> ember 30th, 1862, and the disbursemei: >; ior all purposes for the same period, has been made» viz. : CANAL OOMMXROX. 41 ., Bbosipts. Gross oanal toHs $81,088,958 45 Direiit taxes on the people 8,80«,881W Indirect taxes, viz: Auc. dut's$d,592,089 05 Bait duties 2,055,45806 Tax on • ' Bt'inboat passeng. 73,509 99 *^ " 6,721,00710 ♦General Fund for De- ficiencies 1,886,493 88 820,518 15 Sales canal lauds, . . . Interest on invest- ments and deposits . Premiums on loans.. Bents, surplus wTa.. Elmira and Chemung Canal Feeder 290,097 66 Miscellaneous sources 1,569,709 88 8,728,417 12 2,294,594 28 89,421 74 4104,791,104 66 DiSBUBSBUENTS. ^ Prems. on piirohas« of stoclcs, commis., &o. $866,799 79 Interest on loans 81,821,406 12 Con tractor8,Collector8, Weighmasters,&c. 22,561,818 93 Commlssionei-s for construction 61,218,696 85 Contrlb'n ** to Gen. Fund.. $4,187,602 78 Do. Gen'l .' • ' fund debt 4,284.416 66 8,872,019 89 $124,840,688 07 Balancedue $19,549,528 42 •'^^eceived fh>m General Fund. .... 1,886,498 88 Canal debt unpaid and unprovided for : $20,986,027 80 The magnitude of the trade and ton- nage of the New York Canala will be shown by the following exhibit, giving the tonnage and revenue in each year from 1820 to 1862, inclusive : Tonnage. 1820 1821 1822 1823 1824 Toll, all N. Y. CIS. $5,244 28,888 64,072 190,685 840,642 Toll rec'd at Buffalo. Toll, all Toll ri'c'd Tou^age. N. Y. CMs. at Butt'alo. 1825 $566,279 1826 765,104 1827 869,260 1828 888,444 1829 813,187 1880 1,056,922 1881 1,228,808 1882 1,229,488 1833 1,462,820 1834.... 1,341,329 1836 1,548,986 1836 1,810,807 1,614,836 $106,218 1837 1,171,296 1,292,628 1838 1,183,011 1,590,911 1889. 1,486,718 1,616.382 1840 1,416,046 1,775,747 1841 1,521,661 2,034,888 1842 1,236,981 1,749,196 1848 1,518,489 2,081,590 1844 1,816,686 2,446,874 1846 1,986,011 2,646,181 1846 2,268s662 2,756,106 1847 2,869,810 8,685,381 1848 2,796,280 8,252,212 1,216,701 1849 2,894,783 8,26a226 672,618 1860 8,076,617 8,278,899 767,491 1851 8,582,788 8,829,717 708,498 1862 8,868,441 8,118,244 777,102 1868 2,247,862 8,204,718 802,657 1854 4,166,862 2,778,666 605,897 1866 4,022,617 2,806,077 685,810 1866 4,116,089 2,948,208 76^9 ■ J ,1 ■, .-i ..y:, ■ As an evidence of the increase of agri- cultural' products since 1859, consequent on improved crops and an enlarged area of cultivation, your Committee would di* rect attention to the provision trade of Chicago for the last four years. TABLE, SHOWING THE RBOBIPTS AT OHIOAOO OF THE ARTICLES NAMED FOB THE TBABS 1859-'62. -f"?.>-:'*' ABTICLBS. Flour, barrels Wheat, bushels. . . . Corn, Oats, Rye, Barley Hogs. . Cattle . (I 1859. 126,321 8,060,766 5,401,8t0 1,157,696 231,514 652,696 271,204 111,694 ^ 1860. 713,348 14,427,083 15,262,394 2,198,889 318,976 617,619 392,864 177,101 1861. 1,479,284 17,385,002 26,369,989 2,067,018 490,989 467,589 675,902 204,579 1862. 1,666,391 13,978,116 29,574,328 4,688,722 1,038,825 872,053 1,348,890 209,656 Thus the increase in cereals has been 196 per cent. ; in hogs, 400 per cent. ; and in cattle, 87 per cent. Results equally marked are shown by the returns of the other lake-ports The committee of the Chicago Board of Trade, in a recent Report, say : " In the early settlement of the West, the Mississippi was the only outlet for the products of the country ; but the open- ing of the New York and Canadian canals, and of not less than five trunk railways between the East and West, has rendered the free navigation of the Mississippi a matter of secondary importance. " The heated waters of a tropical sea, destructive to most of our articles of ex- port, a malarious climate, shunned by every Northerner for at least one-half of the year, and a detour in the voyage of 11' TRADE AND OOMMXR S OF CHICAGO. tP^. over 3,000 miles in a direct line to the markets of the world, — these consider- ations have been sufficiently powerful to divert the great flow of animal and veg- etable food from the South to the £ast. Up to 1860, the West found a local mar- ket for an inconsiderable portion of her breadstuff's and provisions in the South ; but after supplying this local demand, the amount which was exported from New Orleans was insignificant, hardly exceed- ing two millions of dollars per annum." The annual report of the Secretary of the Treasury for the year ending August 31, 1860, shows the amount of bread- stuff's and provisions exported to foreigpu FLOUR. WHEAT. bbls. sacks and bbls. 965,860 339,348 These facts show conclusively that, with the navigation of the Mississippi un- obstructed, the great mass of Western o.iTitrloH f om New Orleans and New I'oik re.jpe:j;ively, aa follows: From From New Orleans. New York. Wheat, bushels 2,189 1,8-0,903 Whtiit Flinir, barrels. 80.541 1,187.200 Indian Corn, bushels 224,882 l,5SO,oi I Indian Meal, barrels 158 86.073 Pork, barrels 4,250 109,.S79 Uaiiis and bacon, pounds 890,280 16,161,749 The total receipts of grain of all kinds, at that port, in no single year exceeded 14,500,000 bushels, either for exportation or consumption in ihe interior, which are about the receipts at Milwaukee, or Toledo. In 1869-60, the receipts were as follows: CORN. 0AT8. sacks and bbls. sacks and bbls. , ; 1,722,637 659,550 exports would flow through other chan- nels. PRODUCT OF BREADSTUFFS FOR EXPORTATIOH. The amount of cereals, which, in 1862, flowed out of the Upper Mississippi Val- ley and the region of the Lakes, en route for the sea-board, was, according to the Bufifalo Trade Report, 136,329,642 bush- els, which were respectively forwarded from the following points : 8TAT2MBNT SHOWINQ THB SHIPMBN'T OF CBRBALS FOR 1862. Places. W. Terminus B. A 0. R. R.* " Pennsylvania Central Dunkirk Suspension Bridge* Buffalo Oswego Cape Vincent Ogdensburgh , . . ., Montreal Rochester* Flour. Wheat. CJorn. Other Orftln bbls. bush. bash. bush. 690,000 550,000 1,622.893 10,173 890,696 1,095,366 112,061 149,654 875.000 2,750,000 3,849,620 2,846,022 30,435,831 24,288,627 235,382 10,982,132 4,528,962 1,467,823 48,576 316,403 249,309 49,047 576,394 689,930 1,120,176 18,865 1,101,475 8,012,773 2,649,136 619,896 1,000 150,000 6,622 Totals 8,359,910 50,699,130 32,985,923 10,844,939 Grand Totai. — (Flour reduced to bushels) 136,329,542 * Estimated. ,! r:. 14 COMMERCE OF TIIB LAKES. Places. 8HIPMBNTS OF CEREALS FROM FOUR LAKE PORTS, IN 1862. Flour, bbls. Chicago 1,739,849 Milwaukee 711,405 Toledo* 1,261,291 Detroit+ 998,535 Wheat bash. 13,808,898 14,915,680 9,314,491 3,278,033 Com. ' bush. 29,452,610 9,489 3,781,634 310,618 Other Ortln. bush. 4,516,357 250,292 122,109 Totals 4,711,080 41,317,102 33,554,.S51 4,888,758 Grand Total — (Flour reduced to bushels) . . , 103,315,611 The mining population of Lake Superior absorb not less than 150,000 bushels of cereals, which do not appear in the above tables, and whidi will account for the dis- crepancies between the amounts shipped from the initial points, and the amounts forwarded from the secondary points. These tables are illustrative, as showing that, in this great grain-movement, the four lake porta furnish more than fifty per cent, of all the flour, more than eighty per cent, of all the wheat, and more than seventy'five pf>r cent, of the cereals of all kinds ; while Chicago and Toledo together furnish more com than finds its way eastward through all these ave- nues, and Chicago alone contributes more than forty per cent, of the whole gross product. . , ^^:y ii;',' ifc'-V ■.•i-r^t'.'v' »rt K''i;.«' „.-r'-; ^, ^ ^iv^'-'- Shipment§ of Flour and Grain for 13 Yearf. ^ The following table shows the shipments of all kinds of Grain from CmoAQO, for the past thirteen years : - .- .^ .-^-iw- ,^,.m ,;^h.a *> ^* ior Shipments of Fl&ur {reduced to Wheat) and Qrain^ftom, CmoxaOt for thirteen year$. tei*. .- i-u ! WhML Corn. 0«U. Rye. BMrlev. ToUl Tter. ' ' Biuhelt. Buthala. Biuhelt. Biuh«li. Buthelt. Bnthelt. 1861 799,380 8,221,817 606,827 19,997 .... 4,64d,291 1862 941,470 2,767,011 2,080.817 127,028 17,815 6,878,141 1868 1,680,998 2,780,253 1,748,498 120.275 82,162 6,412.181 1864 2,744.860 6,887.899 8,289,987 148,421 41,168 12.982,820 1866 7,110,270 7,647,678 1,888,638 92,028 20,182 16,688,700 1856 9,419,865 11,129,668 1,014,647 19,051 690 21,688.221 1867 10,788,292 6,814,615 816,773 17,998 .... 18,082,673 1858 10,909,248 7,498,212 1,498,184 127,008 7,669 20,086,166 1869 10,769.869 4,217,654 1,174,177 478,162 181,449 16,753,796 1860 15,892,867 18,700,118 1,091,698 166,642 267,449 81,108,769 1861 28,856,668 24.872,725 1,688,287 893,818 226,584 60,481,862 1862 22,608.148 29,462,610 8,112,866 871,796 689,196 66l484,110 1868-4 18,298,682 24,906,984 9,909,175 688,946 948,262 64,741,889 NoxB.— The teat Hue represents shipments from April 1, 1868, to April 1, 1864. ^ , . u-f-yp-ti .'■^■'i ,^j,''\'^-^r:'yx.^'i' \' ''..;.'. '\iff^-^'^Tr^'-'':''^>-:''-'?*r'y^' ii.;'<>'\Ji': -'■'■■'ttx';* .ji>';'J!ii- . ^ : , *^-,-* •--*-' -X-^"' •! " . . ' TllADE AND COMMERCE OF CHICAGO. 49 PORK AND BEEF PACKING. The progress which has been made in Pork Packing in Chicago during the past two years, is probably without a parallel in the history of any other city in the United States. During the past year there have been erected aJdng the Riyer seven large Pork and Beef houses, all of which have been constructed on the most approved plans. Besides these, there have been built a large number of smaller structures, of more or less permanence; all of which, with the temporary occupation of stores, outhouses, &C., give great additional fa- cilities in the extension of this business. As the season is not yet closed, we can only judge of the packing for 1862-3, by the number cut from the commencement of the season, till January 1, which foots up 639,216, i^inst 229,850, packed dur- ing the same period in 1861 — an increase, thusfar, of 309,366. During the past two seasons, a large proportion of the Hc^s cut have been made into English Middles, for the Liver- pool and LondoQ markets. In the early part of this season, nearly every packing house in the city was engaged in this branch of the business. The favor with which Chicago brands have been received in the leading markets of England, war- rants us in the belief that the trade will be one of permanence. TABLE Showing tA« mmber of ]ioos SeeHved and Forwarded for Jive yeare. ^. ,; ' .:- , ^ ' ■ S..-V ■.- .»- • -- , BBOBIVSD. TBAK. Live. Dressed. Totau 186a... 416,226 124,261 640,486 1859 188,671 82,688 271,204 1880. 285,149 107,715 892,864 1861 649,089 126,863 676,902 1862. M10.»n 887,919 l,84a,8l» , . , . rOBWABDBD. TVAl. Live. Dressed. 1868 169,181 82.833 1869 87,254 22,992 1860. 191,981 8N288 1861 216,982 72,112 1862 446,606 44,629 Total. 192,018 110.246 227,164 289,094 491,135 BEEF CATTLE. -^U *^ The past year has shown but a small increase in the Cattle Trade of Chicago. By the tables which follow, it wUl be seen that the receipts of Cattle at this point amount to 209,655 against 204,679 in 1861, an increase of 5,076 head; and the shipments to 112,745 against 124,146, in the same period of time. Showing a decrease of 11,401. . .v A. • •• >< ? " TABLE Showing Ihe nvmher of Gattls Reetivtd cmd Fot-wardtd for jint years. Beceived in IWW 140,684 " 1850 111,694 1860 177,101 •♦ 1861 204,679 " 1862 209,655 Forwarded in 1868 42,688 1869 87,5&i " 1860 97,474 " 1861 124.146 •* 1862 112,746 The cereals and agricultural products shipped from Chicago consist of x^rn, wheat, rye, oats, barley, butter, cheese, potatoes, wool, hides, &c. The products of the forest are lumber, and wood of dif- ferent kinds. The minerals are coal, &c. ; while fisheries furnish large quantities of cured fish of different kinds for exporta- tion ; altogether giving employment to a large amount of tonnage navigating the great lakes. polled by water-power. Hainlllon, 43 miles from Suspen- sion Bridge, is the principal station on the line of the Great Western Railway, where are located the principal offices and work- shops connected with the company. Here is a commodious dep6t and steamboat land- ing. Carriages and omnihuses are always in readiness to convey passengers to the hotels in the city, and steamboat landings. The 7?> *o Branch of the Great West- ern Rail x)mmences at Hamilton, and extends a uistance of thirty eight miles to the city of Toronto, running near the shore of Lake Ontario. On leaving Hamilton Tor Wini'scr or Detroit, the road passes near the mansion of the late Sir Allan M'Nab, and over the Des Jardines Canal, entering the head of Burlington Bay. Here is also a Suspen- sion Bridge in sight, thrown over the stream as it cuts its way through the high bank which encircles the bay or lake. This point presents a beautiful view, both on leaving or arriving at the head-waters uf Lake Ontario. DuNDAS, five miles from Hamilton, is situated on rising ground on the side of the mountain, and is a thriving manu- facturing place, having the advantage of a stream which flows, or rather rushes, with great impetuosity through its centre, working on its way numerous mills. The Des Jardines Canal runs from hence to Burlington Bay, enabling the manufac- turers to ship their goods at their own doors. BUFFALO AND NIAGARA FALLS TO DETROIT. 51 IIarrisbtjroh. 19 miles from Ilam- fltOD, is the station of the Oalt Branch of tho Great Western Railway. Paris, with the Upper and Lower Town, contains about 3,500 inhab'tants; BO called fVom its contiguity to beds of gypsum or plaster of Paris. It possesses a considerable amount of water-power, which works numerous mills. There are two foundries, a tannery, machine-shop, distillery, saw-mill, etc. The BuffcUo and Lake Huron Railway intersects the Great Western at this point, running to Gode- rich, on Lake Huron. Woodstock, 48 miles from Ham- ilton, and 138 miles from Windsor, is a county town, well situated on rolling ground, and contains about 4,500 inhab- itants. It may be called a town of mag- nificent distances ; East and West Wood- stock forming ? street upward of a mile in length. Th vacant spaces, however, are fast being filled up with stately edi- fices, and it will thus in a short time be- come one of the handsomest thorough- fares in Oanada. In this locality, noted for its handsome country seats — and indeed all the way from Hamilton — the land, as seen from the road (the railroad for the most part passes through a new country), is rolling and well cleared of trees and stumps, presenting more the appearance of "merrie England" than any other section of the Province. Inoersoll, nine miles farther, for- merly an Indian village, now contains about 2,000 inhabitants. A small arm of ttie Thames runs through it, and fur- nishes some water-power, by which sev- eral mills are worked. Since the opening of the railway \\, has risen in a surprising manner; and the town, which before then had a very dingy appearance, the houses being of wood and wanting paint, is now gay with white brick, and the streets resound with the hum of an en- terprising population. London, 119 miles from Suspension Bridge, and 110 miles from Wial-^or, if not, like her English namesake, -Tho great resort Of all the ourth— checkered with all (Jumplexluns of mankind — is nevertheless a very stirring business place, and presents another inst luce oi' tho energy and enterprise of the Ganuduup. Ten years ago, this then very small vil- lage of wooden houses was entirely burned down, and now on its ashes is raised a most flourishing city, containing four banks, several wholesale houses, fif- teen churches, many of tliem handsome structures, and the English Church hav* ing a fine peal of bells ; life and fire in- surances offices, breweries and distilleries. It has three newspapers and several good hotels. Population nearly 18,000. It ia well watered by the river Thames, which, however, is only navigable up to Chatham, sixty miles distant. The London and Port Stanley R. R. here joins the Great Western Railway; length 24. miles, running south to Lake Erie. Chatham, 46 mUes from Windsor, situated on the river Thames, possesses the groat advantage of a navigation, and is therefore a place of considerable busi- ness. It contains eight churches; and being the county town of Kent, it has a court-house, a very handsome building, several grist and sawmills, woollen factory, two foundries, machine-shop, etc. Steam- ers ply between Chatham, Detroit, and Amherstburg. Population about 5,000. Windsor, 229 miles from Suspension Bridge, opposite Detroit, prettily situated on the banks of the river, is a place of considerable business, and is rapidly in- creasing in wealth and population, owing to the advantage it has of being the western terminus of the Grej.t Western Railway. Three steam-ferries ply between Wind- sor and Detroit, making close connections f^r the benefit of railroad passengers. I f ^ii^ .' '.r.-|, :r\r f-.y- m BTJPFALO TO GODEBIOH, G. W., via BtTFFALO AHD I.AKE HURON RAILWAY. This important line of travel extend < from Buffalo, N. Y., crossing Nia.jara River by means of a steam ferry at Blac^ Rock to Fort Erie, op the Canada side. It is proposed to construct a permanent railroad bridge of about one mile iu length, a short distance above the present ferry. From Fort Erie the I'^e of the rftilviray extends westward witma a short distance of Lake Erie for forty miles, to Dunvihe, situated at the mouth of Grand River, crossing the Wellaud CanaL From Dunville the road runs along th<» valley of the river on the north side to Brantford, 38 miles farther, and from thence extends westward to Paris, where it connects with the Great Western Rail- way of Canada. The line thence runs to Stratford, 0. W., where it connects with the Grand Trunk Railway, a total distance from Buffalo of 116 miles. From this point the road is now completed and in running order to Goderich, situated on Lake Huron, a total distance of 163 miles. Dunville is advantageously situated on che Grand River, at a point where it is intersected by the feeder of the Wel- land 0:;i:al. It is a place of considerable business, and contains several grist, saw, and plaster mills, and a tannery. Popu< lation about 1,500. The Wdland Canal is one of the many works of the same kind of which Cana- dians may be proud. This Canal affords a passage for propellers, sloops, and schooners of 125 tons burden, around the Falls of Niagara, and connects Lake Erie with Lake Ontario. It is 42 miles long, including feeder, 56 feet wide, and from 8^ to 16 feet deep. The whole descent from one lake to the other is 334 feet, which is accomplished by 37 Iccks. Beantfoed, 78 miles from Buff-lo, a/id 82 miles from Gk>derioh, is beautiiufiy ):■ ;fftff' . -..*'t>**' ■''■».>.-, , .(.af situated on Grand River, and named after Brant, the renowned chief of the Six Na- tions Indians, who, with his tribe, steadil v supported the British Crown during tiiOj, American War. "In ^Gertrude of Wyo- ming* he is alluded to in disparaging terms : *The mointnoth cornea — the fiend, the monster Brant.' But some years afterward Campbell was obliged to apologize to Brant's son, who happened to visit London ; as it appeared, on satisfactory evidence, his father was not even present at the horrible desolation of Wyoming. This much is due to the memory of Brant, who was a brave war- rior and a steadfast ally of the British, and always exerted himself to mitigate the horrors of war." Brantford, until the opening of the Great Western Railway, was a great wheat market, the streets being crowded with hundreds of wagons daily ; but that road created other markets, and to this extent the town has suffered. It has, however, other sources of prosperity. There is no place in the Province which commands such extensive water-power, and which is made available for the working of nr- merous mills. The iron foundries, ma- chine shops, and potteries are on a large scale, and have caused the place to be re- garded as the Birmingham of Canada. It has a goodly number of churches of vari- ous denominations, and one of the largest and handsomest hotels in the Province — * "The Kirby House." Population about 6,000. : ,\ ' . Stratford is a new and thriving town, favorably situated on the line of the Grand Trunk Railway of Canada. This section of Canada enjoys a good climate and fertile soil, producing cereal grains in great abundance. TABLS OF DISTANCES — SOUTH 8H0KS ROUTB. r>3 Goderlch, C. W., 163 miles dis- tant from Buffalo, by railroad route, is ad- vantageously situated on the east shore of Lake Huron, enjoying a healthy and delightful climate. Here is a good and secure harbor, being easily accessible to the largest steamers and sail vessels nav- igating the Upper Lakes. Here is erected an extensive railroad depot, warehouses, gram elevator, and wharves, owned by the Buffalo and Lake Huron Railway company. The town is beautifully situ- ated on elevated ground, rising about 150 feet above the waters of LsJce Huron, here celebrated for their purity. The pop- ulation amounts to about 6,000, and is rapidly increasing in numbers and wealth. Steamers run daily from this port to Sar- nia, Detroit, Saginaw, and other ports on Lake Huron. A line of propellers, car- rying passengers and fi'eight, also run from Goderich to Mackinac, Milwaukee, Chicago, eta — connecting with the Buf- falo and Lake Huron Railway — thus forming a through line of travel from Buffalo to the above ports. There are several other ports of im- portance lying north of Goderich, on the Canada side of the lake, from whence steamers run to and tro almost daily^ during the season of navigation. TABI.I: OF DISTANCfiS. rBOM BUFFALO TO TOLEDO — SOUTH SHORE BOUTE. Ports, eto. Miles. Buffalo, N. T Silver Creek, N. Y 34 Dunkirk, " 42 Portland, " 52 Erie, Pa 90 Couneaut, Ohio 117 Ashtabula, " 131 Painesville, " 156 Cleveland, " 185 Kelley's Island 240 Sandusky, Ohio 245 South Bass Island 245 West Sister Island 263 Turtle Island 275 Maumee Bay.. . ., 278 Toledo, Ohio 285 PortB, etc. Miles. Toledo, Ohio Maumee Bay 7 Turtle Island 10 West Sister Island 22 South Bass Island 40 Sandusky, Ohio 40 Kelley's Island 45 Cleveland, Ohio 100 PainesvillQ, " 129 Ashtabula, " 164 Conneaut, " 168 Erie, Pa 195 Portland, N. Y 233 Dunkirk, " 243 SUver Creek, N. 1 251 Buffalo, N. Y 286 NoTs. — ^The direct through route as run by the steAmera from Buffalo to Toledo is about 250 miles ; the circuit of Lake Erie being about 660 miles. ^l (-^■l . .r , ''•v^' ■■.■.•M»\.n.. » BUiTALO TO CLEVELAITD, TOLEDO, ETC-bOITTH SHORE EOUTE. Steamers and ropellers of a large class leave Buffalo daily, during the season of navigation, for the different ports on the American or South Shore of Lake Erie, connecting with railroad cars at Cleveland, Sandusky, Toledo, and De- troit. i On leaving Buffalo harbor, which is formed by the mouth of Buffalo Creek, where is erected a breakwater by the United States government, a fine view is afforded of the city of Buffalo, the Canada shore, and Lake Erie stretching off in the distance, with here and there a steamer or sail vessel in sight. As the steamer proceeds westward through the middle of the lake, the landscape fades in the dis- tance, until nothing is visible but a broad expanse of green waters. Sturgeok Point, 20 miles from Buffalo, is passed on the south shore, when the lake immediately widens by the land receding on both shores. During the prevalence of storms, when the full blast of the wind sweeps through this lake, its force is now felt in its full pow^er, drivkug the angry waves forward with the velocity of the race-horse, often causing the waters to rise at the lower end of the lake to a great height, so as to overflow its banks, and forcing its surplus waters into the Niagara River, which causes the only perceptible rise and increase of the rush of waters at the Falls. Dunkirk, N. Y., 42 miles from Buffalo, is advantageously situated on the shore of Lake Erie where terminates the New York and Erie Railroad^ 460 miles in length. Here is a good and secure harbor, affording about twelve feet of water over tlie bar. A light-house, a beacon-light, and breakwater, the latter in dilapidated state, have here been erected / the United States government. As an anchorage and port of refuge this harbor is extremely valuable, and is much resort- ed to for that purpose by steamers and sail vessels during the prevalence of storms. The village was incorporated in 183Y, and now contains about 4,000 inhabitants, 600 dwelling-houses, five churches, a bank, three hotels, and 20 stores of differ- ent kinds, besides several extensive store- houses and manufacturing establishments. The Buffalo and State Line Hailroad, ex- tending to Erie, Pa., runs tlirough Dun- kirk, forming in part the Lake Shore line of railroad, wliich, in connection with the railroad leading direct to the city of New York, affords great advantages to this locality, which is no doubt destined to in- crease with the growing trade of the lake country. Fredonia, three miles from Dun- kirk, with which it is connected by a plank-road, is handsomely situated, being elevated about 100 feet above Lake Erie. It contains about 2,300 inhabitants, 300 dwelling-houses, five churches, one bank, an incorporated academy, four taverns, twenty stores, besides some mills and manufacturing establishments situated on Canadoway Creek, which here affords good water-power. In the village, near the bed of the creek, is an inflammable spring, from which escapes a sufficient quantity of gas to light the village. A gasometer is constructed which forces the gas through tubes to different parts of the village, the consumer paying $4 per year for each burner used. It is also used for lighting the streets of the village. The flame is large, but not so strong or bril- liant as that obtained from gas in our cities ; it is, however, in high fieivor with the inhabitants. Barcelona, N. Y., 68 miles from .. wv«=>s»i if .!■ ity Ziit. lilJ ■'»...3 r y,y;'ff{i •V. *»•*»'! BUFFALO TO CLEVELAND^ TOLEDO, ETC — SOUttt SHORE ROUTE. 55 Buffalo, is the westernmost village in the State. It is a port of entry, and is much resorted to by steamers and large vessels navigating the lake, affording a tolerably good harbor, where is situated a light- house which is lighted by inflammable gas ; it escapes from the bed of a creek about half a mile distant, and is carried in pipes to the light-house. Erie, " the Lake City op Pennsylva- nia," distant 90 miles from Bufifalo and 96 miles from Geveland, is beautifully situated on a bluffy affording a prospect of Presque Isle Bay and the Lake beyond. It has one of the largest and best harbors on Lake Erie, from whence sailed Perry's fleet during the war of 1812. The most of the vessels were here built, being finished in seventy days from the time the trees were felled; and here the gallant victor re> turned with his prixes after the battle of Lake Erie, which took place September 10th, 1813. The remains of his flag-ship, the Laiorence, lie in the harbor, from which visitors ar < allowed to cut pieces as reUcs. On the high bank, a little distance from the * wn are the ruins of the old French f< ''risque Isle. The city co" tains a court- lOuse, nine churches, a hu three hotels, a ship-yard, several exten- sive manufacturing establishment and about 10,000 inhabitantti. In addition to tbb Lake Shore Railroad^ the Philaddpl i ^nd Erie Railroad* terminates at his place, affording a direct communic^ on with New York, Philadelphia, and Baltimore, Presque Isle Bay is a lovely sheet of water, protected by an island prq)e< og into Lake Erie. There is a light h se p^i the west side of the entrance to vwt bs^y^ in lat, 42 « 8' N. ; it shows «i tb,ed light, elevated 93 feet aboVQ thQ 8.vir^aQ# of the lake, and visible for a. distance of 15 miles. The beacon sliows a fixed light, elevated 28 feet, and is visible for nine mileSt CoNNEADT, Ohio, 117 miles from Buf- falo and 68 from Cleveland, situated in the northeast comer of the State, stands on a creek of the same name, near its en- trance into Lake Erie. It exports large quantities of lumber, grain, pork, beef, butter, cheese, etc., being surrounded by a rich agricultural section of country. The village contains abuut 2,000 inhabi- tants. The harbor of Conneaut lies two miles from the village, where is a light- house, a pier, and several warehouses. Ashtabula, Ohio, 14 miles farther west, stands on a stream of the same name, near its entrance in t the lake. This is a tliriving place, inh;i d by an intel- ligent population estimate^ 1 3,500. The harbor of Ashtabula is vo and a half miles from the village, ai the uiouth of the river, where is a Ught-liouse. , Faibport stands on the east side of Grand River, 155 miles from Buffalo. It has a good harbor for laV« vesbols, and ia port of considerable tra^ ', This harbor s 80 well defended from winds, and easy of access, that vessels ru-i in when they cannot easilv make other ports. J^jBce ^ a Ught-houfav and a be^^ t^,gui<3e the mariner, f-'v :. ■* i^.-- ■':..;■ PAiNE8vn4LB, Olnio, three miles IVobo. Fairport and 30 miles from Cleveland, is a beauti(\}\ and flourishing town, being sur- rounded by a fijQe section of country. It is the cputtty seat for Lake County, and cojQt^ns a court-house, five churches, a bank, 20 stores, a numper of beautiful iresidences, and about 3,000 ip^abitauts. ' 7« ♦ This greftt Mne tr^v^Mo* the Northern %nd NorthTPestj coantl«s of Pei)j«ylva»ia, tp the city of Erie on \j)k\e Sric^. \\ ha» been lef^seil b; Uie Peiins7lva,n1a Ballro^ (^onipany, &nd imcLec the(r auspices It beio^ f^|ti,.,.><.• r i 56 TRIP THROUGH THE LAKES. <-r~f-t» . ! ^l^Wi.-Sl^i'^^l^ll^Vai'illiiii^i^^^ «r.'..T< Perry Monument, Erected Sept 10, 1860. Cleveland, "the Forest City," Cuy- ahoga County, Ohio, is situated on a plain, elevated 80 feet above the waters < f Lake Erie, at the mouth of the Cuyahog i ver, which forms a secure harbor for essels of a large class ; being in N. lat. 4 1 " 30', W. long. 81° 42' The bluff on which it is built rises abruptly from the lake leyel, where stands a light-house, near the en- trance into the harbor, firom which an extensive and magnificent view is obtained, overlooking the city, the meandering of the Cuyahoga, the line of railro?»ds, the ship- ping in the harbor, and the vessels pass- ing on the Lake. The city is regularly and beautifully laid out, ornamented with numerous shade- trees, from which it takes the name of " Forest City." Near its centre is a large public square, in which stands a beautiful marble statue of Commodore Oliver H. Perry, which waa inaugurated Sept. 10, 1860, in the presence of more than 100,000 people. It commemorates the glorious achievement of the capture of the British fleet on Lake Erie, September 10th, 1813. Cleveland is the mart of one of the great- est grain-growing States in the Union, and has a ready communication by railroad with New York, Boston, and Philadelphia on the east, while continuous lines of railroads run south, and west to the con- fines of settlement in Kansas and Nebras- ka. It is distant 185 miles from Buffalo, 135 miles from Columbus, 107 miles from Toledo, and 144 milos from Pittsburgh by railroad route ; 120 miles from Detroit by steamboat route. '. It contains a County Court-House and Jail, City Ilall, U. S. Custom-House and Post Office building ; 1 Theatre ; a Library Association with a public reading-room ; 2 Medical Colleges, 2 Orphan Asylums, 35 Churches of different denominations; 4 Banks, a Savings Bank, and 2 Insurance Companies; also, numerous large manu- facturing companies, embracing iron and copper works, ship-building, &c. ; Gas- works, Water-works, and two City Rail- road Companies. The stores and ware- liouses are numerous, and many of them well built. It now boasts of 50,000 in- habitants, and is rapidly increasing in numbers and wealth. The Lake Superior Hide i^ a source of great advantage and ml CL5VELA2sD, " TUB FOKSST CITT." 67 profit, while the other lake traffic, togeth- er with the facilities afiforded by railroads and canals, makes Cleveland onj of the favored cities bordering on the Inland Seas of America. The principal Hotels are the American Hotel, Angier Bouse, Forest City Home, Johnson House, and WeddeU House ; all be- ing large and well-kept public houses. RAILROAIMEI DIVBBaiNO FROM GlBVKLAND. 1. Cleveland and Erie, 95 miles in length. 2. Cleveland, Columhu^, and OincinnaM, 135 miles. 3. Cleveland and Toledo, Northern Divi- sion, 107 miles. 4. Cleveland and Mahoning, 6*7 miles finished. ,. • ^ 5. Cleveland and Pittsburgh, connecting with Wheeling, Va., 200 miles. 6. Cleveland, 2kinesviUe, and Cincinnati, 87 miles ; diverging from Cleveland and Pittsburgh R. R. at Hudson. 7. Atlantic and Great Western Railway, connects with New York and Erie Rail- road, forming a through line of travel Steamers and Propellers of a large class leave daily, during the season of navigation, for Buffalo, Toledo, Detroit, Mackinac, Green Bay, Milwaukee, Chicago, the Saut Ste. Marie, and the different ports on Lake Superior, altogether transporting an immense amount of merchandise, grain, lumber, iron, and copper ore. The regis- tered Tonnage of this port, in 1861, was 82,518 tons. The Northern Transportation Company of Ohio has its principal office in Cleve- land. The Company owns 15 propellers of about 350 tons burden, running from Ogdensburgh and Oswego to Cleveland, Toledo, Detroit, Milwaukee, and Chicago. This line affords a cheap and speedy route for travellers and emigrants, as weU as for the transportation of merchandise and produoe. The Cleveland Iron Mining Company, with a capital stock of $500,000, has its principal office in this city. The mine is situated near Marquette, Lake Superior, being distant about 14 miles from the steamboat landing. A railroad extends to the Iron Mountain, affording facilities for the transportation of 2,000 tons of iron ore per day. This ore yields on an aver- age 66^ per cent, of iron. The greater proportion of this ore finds a ready market in Cleveland, from whence the most of it is transported to the Mahoning Valley, where it meets the coal of that region and is smelted and manufactured into merchantable iron. Steamboat Route fk*oin Cleveland to Detroit. Porte, etc. Miles. Clkv,et.and, Ohio Poi n t Pel6e lo., and Light 60 n:ir Point, C. W. 97 i:..is Bhtnc Is. Light, i .^n IVtroit River, \'-; ^^^ .yftlrfen, C. W 101 (ii'maltar, Mich (iiosse Isle, " '..102 ^^lllla Juba Is. and Light 108 ^Vl/andotte, Mich 109 FiMi Island Light Ill ri^rhtlug Island 112 Windsor, C, W 119 DKTItiJlT 120 Ports, etc. MflM. Deteoit, Mich Windtior, C. W 1 Fightinp Island 8 Fish Island 9 Wyamlotte, Mi6h 11 Mams. Juba Is. and Light 13 Grusse Isle 18 Gibraltar, Mich Maiden, C. W 19 Bols Blanc Is.. Light, ) qa LakeErie, f ^ Bar Point! C.W 28 Point Pel6e Island 60 Clkvkland 120 Fakk, $3 00. U^AL TiMK, 7 hours. I ? ! f %m t ' ■ I V 58 TRIP THROUGH THB LAKES. Blaok BrnsB, 28 mQes fVom Cleve- land, is a small village with a good har- bor, where is a ship-yard and other manufacturing establishments. Yeruiuon, 10 miles farther on the line of the Cleveland and Toledo Railroad, is a place of consideral)le trade, situated at the mouth of the river of the same name. Huron, Ohio, 60 miles from Cleve- land and 10 miles from Sandusky, is situated at the mouth of Huron River, which afifords a good harbor. It contains (several churches, 16 or 20 stores, several warehouses, and about 2,000 inhabitants. The islands lying near the head of Lake Erie, off Sandusky, are Kellet's Island, North Bass, Middle Bass, and South Bass islands, besides several smaller islimda, forming altogether a handsome group. KtUey^s laloMd, the largest and most important, is famous for its grape culture, and has become a place of sum- mer resort by the citia^ns of Ohio and other States. On the north side of South Bass Island, lies the secure harbor of Put-in-Bat, made celebrated by being the rendezvous of Com. Perry's flotilla before and after the decisive battle of Lake Erie, which resulted in the capture of the entire British fleet. IS KAVAL BATTLE ON LAKE ERIE. •HI Hi September 10th, 1813, the hostile fleets of England and the United States on Lake Erie met near the head of the Lake, and a sanguinary battle ensued. The fleet bearing the "red cross" of England con- sisted of six vessels, carrying 64 guns, under command of the veteran Com. Barclay; and the fleet bearing the "broad stripes and bright stars" of the United States, consisted of nine vessels carrying 54 guns, under command of the young and inexperienced, but brave. Com. Oliver H. Perry. The result of this im- portant conflict was made known to the world in the following laconic dispatch, written at 4 p. m. of that day : "Dear General: We have mat thr enemy, and they are ours: Two ships two brigs, one schooner, and one sloop. With esteem, etc., 0. H. Perrt " Gen. William H. Harrison." Sandnsky, "The BatCiit" capita of Erie Co., Ohio, is a port of entry and a place of considerable trade. It is ad vantageously situated on Sandusky Bay, three miles from Lake Erie, in N. lat. 41*^ 27', W. long. 82* 46'. The bay is abou* 20 miles long, and fi\e or six miles in width, forming a capacious and excellent harbor, into which steamers and vessel^ of all sizes can enter with safety. The average depth of water is from ten^ to twelve feet. The city is built aa a bed of limestone, producing a good building materiaL It contains about 10,000 in- habitants, a court-house and jail, eight churches, two banks, several well-kept hotels, and a number of large stores and manufacturing establishments of differ- ent kinds. This is the terminus of the Sandusky^ Dayton^ and Cincinnaii Raibvad, 153 miles to Dayton, and the Sandiisky, Mansfield, and Newark JRailroad, 116 miles in length. The Cleveland and Toledo JRail- road, northern division, also terminates at Sandusky. ^ •- Toledo, One of the m6st favored Cities of the Lakes, is situated on the Maumee river, four miles from its mouth, and ten miles from the Turtle Island Light, at the outlet of the Maumee Bay into Lake Erie. The harbor is good, and the navigable channel from Toledo of sufiicient depth for all steamers or sail vessels navi- gating the lakes. Toledo is the eastern terminus of the Wabash and Erie Canal, running through the Maumee and Wabash valleys, and communicating with the Ohio River at EvansviUe, a distance o£' 474 miles ; also of the Miami wridl Erie Canal, which branches from thet above canal 68 miles west of Tole^,. andl runs southwardly through the ttiaiia BUFFALO TO CLEVELAND, TOLEDO, ETC. SOUTH SHORE ROUTE. 59 Valley in Western Ohio, and communi- jates with the Ohio River at Cincinnati, forming together the longest line of canal tiavigation in the United States. The railroads diverging from Toledo are the Michigan Sovihern and Northern In- diana Railroad, running through the southern counties of Michigan and the northern counties of Indiana, and making its western terminus at Chicago, Illinois, at a distance of 243 miles; the Air Line Railroad, running due west from Toledo, through Northwestern Ohio and the northern counties of Indiana to Goshen, a distance of 110 miles, where it connects with the Northern Indiana Railroad, run- ning to Chicago ; and the Detroit, Monroe, and Toledo Railtvad. It is also the east- ern terminus of the Toledo, Wabash, and Western Railroad, running in a south- westerly direction through the Maumee and Wabash valleys, crossing the east- ern line of the State of Illinois, about 125 miles south of Chicago, and continuing in a southwesterly course through Dan- ville, Springfield, Jacksonville, Naples, etc., in Central Illinois, to the Mississippi River, and connecting with the Hannibal and St. Joseph Rotul, which stretches nearly due west through the State of Missouri to St. Joseph, on the Missouri River. The Dayton and Michigan Rail- road, which connects Toledo with Ciaoin- nati, is much the shortest railroad line connecting Lake Erie with the Ohio River. Besides the above important roads, the Cleveland and Toledo Railroad terminates hero. Toledo is the nearest point for the im- mense country traversed by these canals and railroads, where a transfer can be made of freight to the more cheap trans- portation by the lakes, and thence through the Erie Canal, Welland Canal, or Oswego Canal, to the seaboard. It is hot merely the country traversed by these canals and railroads that send their products, and re- ceive their merchandise, through Toledo, but many portions of the States of Ken- tucky, Tennessee, and Missouri, find To- ledo the cheapest and most expeditious lake-port for the interchange and transfer of their products and merchandise. This city is the capital of Lucas County, Ohio, where is situated a court-house and jail, several fine churches, a magnificent High School edifice, and five large brick ward school houses; a young men's association that sustains a course of lec- tures during the winter ; two banks, two insurance companies, six hotels, and a great number of store o and storehouses; also several extensive manufacturing es- tablishments. The principal hotels are the Island House and Oliver House. The population of Toledo in 1850 was about 4,000, and now it is supposed to contain 17,000 inhabitants, and is rapidly increasing in wealth and numbers. The shipping interest is increasing, here being trans-shipped annually an amount of grain exceeded only by Chicago, and other kinds of e gricultural products of the great West. This city is destined, like Chicago, to export direct to European ports. At this time there are in process of erection in Toledo many handsome dwel- lings, numerous handsome blocks of stores, a post-office and custom-house by the general government, and a first-class hotel; these two latter buildings, from the plans we have seen, would do credit to any city, and when completed can be classed among the most elegant struc- tures. No city in the State can boast of finer private residences than Toledo ; and the general character of the buildings erected in the past four years is substan- tial and elegant. Pbbbysburoh, the capital of Wood Co., Ohio, is situated on the right bank of the Maumee River, 18 miles above its entrance into Maumee Bay, the southern termination of Lake Erie. It contains a court-house and jail, four churches, 20 stores of difierent kinds, three steam saw- \:\ ■¥ 6d. TRIP THROUGH THE LAKES. ■'■»»i? i I m mills, a tannery, and several other manu- facturing establishments. Population about 1,500. Here is the head of steam- boat navigation on the Maumee River, affording thus far a sufQcient depth of water for steamers of a large class. Old Ihrt Meigs, famous for having withstood a siege by the British and In- dians in 1813, is one mile above this place. Maumbe City, Lucas Co., Ohio, is a port of entry, situated on the Maumee River, opposite Perrysburgh, at the foot of the rapids and at the head of naviga- tion, nine miles above Toledo. A side cut here connects the Wabash and Erie Canal with the river. The Toledo and Illinois Railroad also passes through this place. It contains five churches, ten stores, four flouring-mills, three saw-mills, one oil-mill, and other manufacturing es- tablishments propelled by water-power, the supply being here almost inexhausti- ble. Three miles above the city is the site of the famous battle fought against the Indians by Gen. Wayne, in 1794, known as the Battle of Miami Rapids. One mile below the town is Old Fort Miami, one of the early British posts. Mauheb RrvER rises in the north- east part of Indiana, and flowing northeast enters Lake Erie, through Maumee Bay. It is about 100 miles long, navigable 18 miles, and furnishing an extensive water- power throughout its course. The City of Monroe, capital of Monroe Co., Mich., is situated on both sides of the River Raisin, three miles above its entrance into Lake Erie, and about 40 miles from Detroit. It is connected with the lake by a ship canal, and is a termi- nus or the Michigan Southern Railroad, which extends west, in connection with the Northern Indiana Railroad, to Chica- go, 111. The town contains about 4,000 inhabitants, a court-house and jail, a United States land-office, eight churches, several public houses, and a number of large stores of different kinds. Here are two extensive piers, forming an outport at the mouth of the river; the railroad track running to the landing. A plank- road also runs from the outport to the city, which is an old and interesting lo- cality, being formerly called Frenchtowi^, which was known as the scene of the battle and massacre of River Raisin in the war of 1812. The Detroit, Monroe, and Toledo Railroad, just completed, passes through this city. Steamers run from Detroit to Toledo, stopping at Monroe. Trenton, situated on the west bank of Detroit river, is a steamboat landing and a place of considerable trade. Population, 1,000. Wyandotte, ten miles below Detroit, is a new and flourishing manufacturing village, where are located the most ex- tensive Iron Works in Michigan. The iron used at this estabhshment comes mostly from Lake Superior, and is con- sidered equal in quality to any in the world. The village contains about 1,600 inhabitants. ■ ' ' Railroad Route around I^ake Erie. This important body of water being en- compassed by a band of iron, we subjoin the following Table of Distances: ;,f|*i hi^-^ -m^ Miles. Buffalo to Paris, 0. W., via Buffalo and Lake Huron Railroad, 84 Paris to Windsor or Detroit, via Grec^ Wpstm^Raiiway, 158 Miles. Detroit to Toledo, Ohio, via Detroit and Toledo R. R, Toledo to CleveUmd, via Clevdandand Toledo R. R, Cleveland to Erie, Pa., via Cleveland and Erie R. R., Erie to Buffalo, via Lake Shore Road, Total miles, 63 107 95 88 695 OHIO RIVER AND LAKE KRIB CAKAL8. FORT WATNB. 61 The extreme length of Lake Erie is 250 miles, from the mouth of Niagara River to Maumee Bay; the circuit of the lake about 560 miles, being about 100 miles less distance than has been stated by some writers on the g^eat lakes. - c ■.■■li UV. {>! Ohio River and Lake Erie Canals. The completion of the Miami Canal makes four distinct channels of commu- nication from the Ohio River through the State of Ohio to Lake Erie, namely: 1. The Erie Extension CancU, from Beaver, twenty or thirty miles below Pittsburgh, to Erie, 136 miles. 2. The Cross- Cut Beaver Canalj which is an ex- tension or branch from Newcastle, Pa., on the Beaver Canal, to Akron, Ohio, where it unites with the Portsmouth and Cleveland Canal — ^making a canal route from Beaver to Cleveland of 143 miles. 3. The Ohio CancU, from Cleveland to Portsmouth, through the centre of the State, 309 miles. 4. The Miami Extension, which is a union of the Miami Canal with the Wabash and Erie Canal, through Dayton, terminating at Toledo, at the mouth of the Maumee River on Lake Erie, 247 miles. The vast and increasing busi- ness of the Ohio Valley may furnish busi- ness for all these canals. They embrace rich portions of Pennsylvania, Ohio, and ladiaaa ; but are not so located as to be free from competition with one another. At no distant time, they would unques- tionably command a sufficient independ- ent business, were it not probable that they may be superseded by railways. The capacity of railways — ^both for rapid and cheap transportation — as it is devel- oped by circumstances and' the progress of science, is destined to affect very mate- rially the value and importance of canals. Fort Wayne. The United States government is now engaged in making extensive improve- ments at Ibrt Wayne, which, when com- pleted, will render it one of the strongest fortitications in the country, and almost impregnable against a land assault. The site of the fort, as is well known, is in Springwells, about three miles below the city of Detroit. Its location is admirable, being on a slight eminence, completely commaading the river, which at that point is narrower than in any other place of its entire length. Guns properly placed there could ofTectually blockade the river against ordinary vessels, and, with the aid of a few gunboats, could re- pulse any fleet which might present it- self. The present works were erected about the years 1842-'43, mainly under the su- pervision of General Meigs. The form of the works is that of a star, mounting thirty-two barbette guns at the angles which rake the moat, and protect it against an assault by land. The height from the bottom of the ditch is about forty feet. The exterior of the embank- ments was supported by timbers, which, in the twenty years in which they have stood, have become unsound, and now give unmistakable evidence of decay. This fact has rendered necessary the im- provements which are now being made. They consist of a wall around the entire fort, built against these timbers, which will not be removed, and which will not only sustain the embankments, but will render the place much more impregnable. The wall is seven feet and a half in thickness, and twenty feet in height on every side. The outside facing, two fee^ in thickness, is of bnck, the remainder is filled in with pounded stone, water-Ume, 1 y \ m. ■ ■i 5» ' ■; , : ;| : .■■■'' ; 1 f i i 6ft> , K'v, r f t-<- TRIP THROUQU THX LAKES. M-ff ,*>•'' i Si!] ill! nil ilili ■and, and mortar, making a solid wall of great strength. From the nature of the surrounding grounds, artillery cannot be ' . brought to bear upon the wall, with the \ exception of about two feet at the top, 'ff which extends above the level of the ditch. The wall, therefore, could not be battered down, and the only possible way by which the place could be taken would be by a land assault and scaling the walls from the moat by means of ladders. This is effectually provided against by the placing of the guns, eight of which rake the moat on each side. The improve- ments now being made still further con- template placing these guns in casemates, which will render them still more secure, protecting the guns and gunners. Bar- bette guns will also be mounted on the bastions in addition to the casemate guns, which will be placed in a manner similar to that in which they are now placed. These improvements will greatly strength- en the works and render them more per- manent. The place is an important one, as the expense the government is at in rendering it impregnable clearly shows. In case of a war with Great Britain it would become of the highest importance. And acting on the maxim, " in time of peace prepare for war," it is the best time to attend to these improvements. \ ^.•;'t TABLE OF DISTANCES JPbOM CiC/ELAND AND DETROIT TO SUPERIOR CiTT, FORMma A GRAMD STBAIC- BOAT EXCURSION OF OVER TwO THOUSAND MiLES. ^ - Porte, Ac. ClKV BLAND,Ohio . Maiden, 0. W.... Drtroit, Mich... Lake St. Clair.... Algonae, Mich.... Newport, " SL Clair, "■ Port Huron " Port Sarnio, C. W. Point au Barque — Off Saginaw Bay Thunder Bay Island Point de Tour I Bt. Mary's Kiver ) ' ' CfiurcKa Landing. SauT Ste. Marie. . . Point Iroquois . . . White Fish Point... Point au Sable Pictured llocks Grand Island Marquette,, Mich. . . I'oftasre Entry ILiimhtoi, Mich Ivlunitou Island Voifj>er Ifiirbor.... JSagle Harbor Eagle River Ontonagon, Mich.. La Puinte, Wis.... Biiyfield, Wis Point d« Tour BufKBiOB, city, Wis PUm .(on to PIm«. Mile*. 100 100 20 120 7 127 88 160 6 166 10 176 17 198 67 260 76 885 86 420 86 456 14 470 15 485 i» 510 50 560 20 680 10 690 40 680 70 700 Portage Lake). 65 755 15 770 16 786 10 796 60 856 74 980 4 984 10 944 70 1,014 Porte, Ac Plac* Superior City, Wis Point de Tour jBayfield,Viii La Pointe " Ontonagon, Mich Eagle River " Eagle Harbor " Copper I/arbor " Manitou Island Portaee Entry ffougMon, Mich (on Marquette " Grand Island Pictured Kocks Point au Sable White Fish Point Point Iroquois Saut Stk. Marie CkurcKa Landing Point de Tour, J Lake Huron, f Thunder Bay Island Off Saginaw Bay * Point au Barque j Port Huron, Mich. } Port Sarnift, O. W. ( St adr, Mich Newport " Algonac, Mich St Clair Flats Detroit, Mich Maiden, C. W Cleveland, Ohio.. to Plwa. MU«fl. TO 70 10 80 4 84 74 168 60 218 10 228 16 244 16 259 66 814 Portage Lake). 70 884 40 424 10 484 20 454 60 604 26 629 16 644 14 658 86 694 86 679 76 754 67 821 17 833 10 84S 6 854 10 864 80 894 20 914 100 1,014 kll;. ■ \ :^-1 ' .i OITROIT. ore secure, lers. Bm- Bd on the mate guns, ier similar ow placed. y strength- more per- >rtant one, it is at in ftrly shows. Britain it importance, in time of le best time ,ts. ( ID Stxaic- to Plftc*. TO 10 4 T4 60 10 16 15 55 *ortage TO 40 10 20 50 26 15 4 }6 PT' Mtlef. 70 80 84 168 218 228 244 259 314 Lake). 884 424 484 454 504 629 544 558 594 679 764 821 T 833 , 84S 6 854 , 8W : 894 914 1,014 Detroit, "Thb City of thi Straits, " a port of entry, and the great commercial mart of the State, is favorably situated in N. lat. 42' 20', W. long. 82* 68', on a river or strait of the same name, elevated some 30 or 40 feet above its surface, be- ing seven miles below the outlet of Lake St. Clair and twenty above the mouth of the river, where it enters into Lake Erie. It extends for the distance of upward of a mile upon the southwest bank of the river, where the stream is three-fourths of a mile in width. The principal public and private offices and wholesale stores are located on Jeflferson and Woodward avenues, which cross each other at right angles, the latter running to the water's edge. There may usually be seen a great number of steamboats, propellers, and sail vessels of a large class, loading or unloading their rich cargoes, destined for Eastern markets or for the Great West, giving an animated appearance to this place, which is aptly called the Glty of the Straits. It was incorporated in 1815, being now divided into ten wards, and governed by a mayor, recorder, and board of aldermen. Detroit contains the old State-house, from the dome of which a fine view is obtained of the city and vi- cinity; the City Hall, Masonic Hall, Fire- men's Hall, Mechanic's Hall, Odd Fellows' Hall, the Young Men's Society Building, two Market Buildings, forty Churches, ten Hotels, besides a number of taverns; a United States Custom-house and Post- office, and United States Lake Survey office, a theatre, a museum, two orphan asylums, four banks, and a savings' fund insti' ute, water- works, and gaf-works, four grain elev- ators, five steam grist-mill^i, and several steam saw- mills, besides a great num- ber of other manufactur- ing establishments. There are also several extensive I ship-yards and machine-shops, where -are built and repaired vessels of almost every description. The population .in 1850 was 21,891; in 1860, 45,619. The principal Hotels are the Biddle House, and Michigan Exchange, on Jefferson avenue, and the RusaeU House, on Wood- ward avenue, facing Campus Martins, an open square near the centre of the City. Detroit may be regarded as one of the most favored of all the Western cities of the Union. Tt was first settled by the French explorers as early as 1701, as a military and fur trading port. It changed its garrison and military government in 1760 for a British military commander and troops, enduring under the latter rR» gime a series of Indian sieges, assaults, and petty but vigilant and harassing war- fare, conducted against the English gar- rison by the celebrated Indian warrior Pontiac. Detroit subsequently passed into possession of the American revolu- tionists ; but on the 16th August, 1812, it was surrendered by Gen. Hull, of tlie United States army, to Gen. Brock, com- mander of the British forces. In 1813 it was again surrendered to the Americans, under Gen. Harrison. Tlie following Railroad lines diverge from Detroit: 1. The Detroit, Monroe, and Toledo Raih road, 62 miles in length, connecting with the Michigan Southern Railroad at Mon- roe, and with other roads at Toledo. 2. The Michigan Central Railroad, 282 miles in length, extends to Chicago, 111. This important road, running across the State from east to west, oonneota at fi if; 1 1 TRIP THROUGH THS LAKES. Miclngan City, Ind., with the New Al- bany and Salem Railroad — thus forming a direct line of trayel to Louisville, St. Louis, etc., as well as Chicago and the Far West. 3. The Detroit and Milwaukee Railroad runs through a rich section of country to Grand Haven, on Lake Michigan, op- posite Milwaukee, Wis. .^. 4. The Detroit and Port Hmon Railroad, connecting witli the Grand Trunk Rail- way of Canada, connects Lake Huron by rail with the valley of the Ohio River. 5. The Qreat Western Railway oiQicasAa, has its terminus at Windsor, opposite Detroit, the two places being connected by three steam ferries — thus affording a speedy line of travel through Canada, and thence to Eastern cities of the United States. Steamers of a large class run from De- troit to Cleveland, Toledo, and other ports on Lake Erie ; others run to Port Huron, Saginaw, Goodrich, C. W., and other ports on Lake Huron. The Lake Superior line of steamers run- ning firom Cleveland and Detroit direct for the Saut Ste. Marie, and all the prin- cipal ports on Lake Superior, are of a large class, carrying passengers and freight. Tliis has becom > one of the most fashion- able and healthy excursions ou the con- tinent. The Detroit River, or Strait, is a noble stream, through which flow the surplus waters of the Upper Lakes into Lake Erie. It is 27 miles in length, and from iialf a mile to two miles in width, forming the boundary between the United States and Canada. It has a perceptible current, and is navigable for vessels of the largest class. Large quantities of flsh are annuuolly taken iu the river, and the sportsman usually linds an abundance of wild ducks, which breed in great numbers in the marshes bordering some of the islands and harbors | peot is terminated with some hiUs covered it^fsrii- with vineyards, trees bearing good fruit, groves and forests so well disposed that of the coast. There are altogether seventeen islands in the river. The names of these are. Clay, Celeron, Hickory, Sugar, Boia Blanc, EUa, Fox, Rock, Groase lah, Stoney, Fight- ing, Turkey, Mammy Judy, Orauy, Mud, BeOe or Hog, and lie la P6che. The two latter are situated a few miles above De- troit, near the entrance to Lake St. Clair, where large quantities of white-fish are annually taken. Ilb la Pi^OHB, attached to Canada, was the home of the celebrated Indian chief Pontiac. Parkman, in his '* History of tlio Conspiracy. of Pontiac," says: "Pontiac, the Satan of this forest-paradise, was ac- customed to spend the early part of tl)o summer upon a small island at the open- ing of Lake St. Clair." Another author says: "The king and lord of all this country lived in no royal state. His cabin was a small, oven-shaped structure of bark and rushes. Here he dwelt with his squaws and children ; and here, doubtless, he might often have been seen carelesslv reclining his naked form on a rush-mat or i a bear-skin, like an ordinary Indian war- • It nor." The other fifteen islands, most of them small, are situated below Detroit, within the first twelve miles of the river after entering it from Lake Erie, the largest of which is Grosse Isle, attached to Michi- gan, on which are a number of extensive and well-cultivated farms. This island has become a very popular retreat for citizens of Detroit during the heat 6f summer, there being here located good public liouses for the accommodation of visitors. Father Hennepin, who was a passenger on the " Griffin," the first vessel that crossed Lake Erie, in 1679, in his descrip- tipp of the scenery along the route says : •' The islands are the finest in the world: the strait is finer than Niagara; the, banks are vast meadows, and the pros- DETROIT AND MILWAUKEE RAILROAD AND STEAMSHIP LINE. 65 one would think that Nature alono could not have made^ without the help of art, bo charming a prospect" OOMPARATrnD PURITT OF DETBOIT RIVER ., WATER. The following Table ihows the solid matter in a gallon of water, taken from Lakes and Bivers in different cities : Albany, Hudson River 8.820 Troy, Mohawk River 7.880 Boston. Gochituate Lake 1.800 New York, Croton River 6.998 Brooklyn, L L Ponds 2.867 Philalphla, Schuylkill R 4260 Cincinnati, Ohio River &786 Lake Ontario 4.160 Detroit, Detroit River. &722 Cleveland, Lake Erie &000 Montreal, St. Lawrence R &000 Of the Detroit River water, Prof Douglass, in his report of the analysis, says : " In estimating the value of your city water, as compared with other cities, due allowance must be made for the fact, that the total solid matter is materially increased by the presenoe of silica, alumina, and iron, elements that can produce little or no injury ; while the chlorides, much the most injurious com- pounds, are entirely absent. The pros- ence of such large quantities of silica and iron is accounted for by the fact that Lakes Superior and Huran are formed, for the most part, in a basin of ferruginous °"!;dstoue and igneous rock." NovR. — The nurity of the waters of Lake Superior, probaoly e.xceedB nil other bodies o| water on the face of the elobe, afTording a oool and delightful beverage at lul seaaonflk - tt irnwaitiwi Comparative Increase LMke Cities. of Burr Aix), New York. . . . . CntcAoo, 111 CLBVKLANn, Ohio DBTRorr, Mich Erie, Penn.. MiLWAUKBK, Wli OawKoo, New 1 vk Racinb, Wis Sanditskt. Ohio ToLBDO, Ohio * Black Hock annexed. 1840. 18s218 4,470 6,071 9,102 i,7(H) ISfiO. 18601, 42,261 81,181* 2a260 109,9<)8 17,084 86.0Mt 21,019 ^868 20.061 13,i05 6,107 8,008 8,829 1,484 1,222 t OMo OUy annexed. 4&,619 9,419 46s2M 1«,81T 10,000 8,408 18,768 •: '\-^r : 'i V .. K-. '. DETROIT AND IHLWATTKEE RAILBOAB AND STEAMSHIP LINE, >i$\A ■ ■t>\': ■>'>■■', i«''**»- *'^.rj •;*ftr OONNBCmrG WITH THE GREAT LINES OP TRAVEL EAST AND WEST. On leaving the Railroad Depot at De- troit the line of this road runs in a north- west direction to Pontiao, 26 miles, pass- ing through a rich section of farming country. The route then continues westerly to Fentonvillb, 24 ifailes further, where commences a railroad route, running through Flint, and extending north to Saginaw, favorably situated on Saginaw river. It is intended to continue the Flint and Pere Marqimtte Railroad, some 150 miles, to the shore of Lake Michigan. OwASSO, 78 miles from Detroit, and 110 miles from Grand Haven, is an impor- 6 tant station, from whence a railroad extends southwest to Lansing, the capital of thQ State of Michigan. It is intended to car- ry the line of tiiis road north to Saginaw City, and from thence portihwest to Traverse Bay on Lake Mix^Iiigan, where is a good harbor. From Owaaso, the Detroit and Mil- waukee Railroad runs westward through St. John's, Ionia, and other stations, pass- ing down the valley of the Grand liiver, a rich and poptilous section of country, producing large quantities of wheat fuid other agricultural productions, all of which find a ready sale in the Eastern markets. J!l, I;' • I- ti I' ir< P ''I i 11 i In "in: ^6 v;*s^f.' TRIP THROUGH THE LAKES; * «V?' ^" 'rj^^ii-f-fl^.^r " Up in iho nortiiem part of the Grand River Valley, and along and beyond the Muskegea River, an immense amornt of pine timber is to be found, giving profit- able employment to a large number of luxabermen." Crraiid Rapids, 168 miles west o' Detroit, and forty miles above Grand Haven, an incorporated city, is fa 7orably situated on both banks of Grand B'iver, where is a fall of about eighteen feet, affording an immense water-power. Steamers run from this place daily to Grand Haven, connecting with steamers for Milwaukee, Chicago, and other ports on Lake Michigan. Here is an active population of about 10,000, and rapidly increasing, surrounded by a now, fertile, and improving country, being a^lke famous as a wheat and fruit region. T^: city now contains a court-house &nd jail ; 6 churcheis ; 6 hotels ; 60 stores of different kinds; 3 grist-mills; 5 saw- mills ; 3 cabinet- war<) factories; 2 machine- shops, and other manufacturing establish- ments. The private dwellings and many of the stores are elegant edifices, con- structed of building material which is found in the immecUiate vicinity. Exten- sive and inexhaustible beds of gypsum are found near this place, producing large quantities of stucco and plaster, all of which find a ready sale in Eastern and Western markets. It is estimated that 25,000 tons of stucco for building, and plaster for fertilizing purposes, can be quarried and ground yearly from the different quarries in this vicinity. At the Eagle Mills, two mile3 below the city, is already formed an immense excavation, ex lending several hundred feet under ground, which is well worthy of a visit, where rich specimens of the gypsum can be obtained. .^ .!■ -^i, Steauiboat Route flrom Grand Rapidh to Grand Haveu. Gtiand Rapids , "^ Eagle Plaster Mill Grandville 5 Lament 13 Eastmanville. . . . .- 2 Mill Point 16 Gbaio) Hayek 2 • 2 7 20 22 38 40 On leaving Grand Rapids foi Grand Haven, by railroad, the route extends north of the river, through a fertile section of country, mostly covered by a heavy growth of hardwood, although the pinoi predominates as you approach the lakel shore. Gf and Haven, Ottawa Co., Mich., is situated on both sides of Ot- tawa River, near its entrance into Lake Michig^oi, here eighty-live miles wide ; on the opposite side lies Milwaukee, Wis- consin. The different settlements, com- prising Grand Haven, contain about 3,000 in'nabitanta. Hei'e are a court-house and jail ;->3 churches ; six hotels and taverns, and a number of stores and warehouses ; 8 large steam saw-mills, pail and tub factories, a foundry and machine-shop, and other manufacturing establishments. Steamers and sail vessels run from Grand Haven, which has a well-protected harbor, to Milwaukee, Chicago, and other ports on Lake Michigan, carrying a large amount of produce and lumber. The fisheries in this vicinity are also pro- ductive and exteiisivfc. The sand hills on the east shore of Lake Michigan rise from 100 to 200 feet, pre- senting a sterile appearance, although the land in the interior is very rich and pro- ductive. TRIP FROxM DETROIT TO MACKINAC, GREEN BAY, ETC. Trip acrois Liake Micbigan. The staunch and well-built steamships, Detroit, Capt. McBrido, and Milwaukee, Capt. Trowell, run twice daily across Lake Michigan, connecting with trains on the Detroit and Milwaukee railroad. This trip is delightful during the summer and autumn montlis when Lake Michigan is usually calm, affording a safe and delight- ful excursion of about six hours' contin- uance. The spacious cabins, and well- arranged dining-saloons of these ships, together with the well-provided tables, renders this route to and from the Eastern cities one of the most pleasant and do8i> rable as regards speed and objects of in- terest. Usu^ fare from Milwaukee U> Detroit, $8,00. Distance, 271 miles; time, 14 hours. Prom Milwaukee, westward, there is a direct connection both with the Milwaukee and Prairie du Chien Railroad, and the Im Crosse and Milwaukee Railroad run- ning to the Mississippi River. A daily line of steamers run from the termination of both of the above railroads to St. Paul, Minnesota. i n TRIP FBOH DETEOIT TO MAGKIHAC, SAITT STB. MABIE, CHICAGO, &c. During the season of navigation propel- lers of a large class, with good accommoda- tions for passengers, leave Detroit daily di- rect for Mackinac, Green Bay, Milwaukee, and Chicago, situated on Lake Michigan. Steamers of a large class, carrying pas- sengers and freight, also leave Detroit, almost daily for the Saut Ste Marie, from thence passing through the Ship Canal into Lake Superior — forming delightful excursions during the summer and early autumn months. For further information of steamboat routes, see Advertisements. On leaving Detroit the steamers run in a northerly direction, passing Bell or ffog Mand, two miles distant, which is about tliree miles long and one mile broad, pre- senting a handsome appearance. The Canadian shore on the right is studded with dwellings and well cultivated farms. Pechb Island is a small body of land attached to Canada, lying at the mouth of Detroit River, opposite which, on the Michigan shore, is WiitdrMill Point and light-house. Lake St. Olair oommenoes seven miles above Detroit ; it may bo said to be 20 miles long and 25 miles wide, measur- ing its length from the outlet of St. Clair River to the head of Detroit River. Com- pared with the other lakes it is very shal- low, havmg a depth of only from 8 to 24 feet as indicated by Bayfield's chart. It receives the waters of the Upper Lakes from the St. Clair Strait by several chan- nels forming islands, and discharges them into the Detroit River or Strait. In the upper portion of the lake are several ex- tensive islands, the largest of which is Walpole Island ; it belongs to Canada, and is inhabited mostly by Indians. All the islands to the west of Walpole Island be- long to Michigan. The "Walpole, or " Old Ship Channel," forms the boundary between the United States and Canada. The main channel, now used by tho larger class of vessels, is called the " North Channel" Here are passed the " St G/air Flats,''^ a great impediment to navigation, for the removal of which Con- gress will no doubt make ample appro- priation sooner or later. The northeaste in channel, separating Walpole Island from ii 68 .^..r^ TRIP THROUGH THE LAKES. sj-,\.^'r- •'S':l«?' -^ • -- -^» the main Canada shore, is called " GJie- nail Ecartey Besides the waters passing through the Strait of St. Clair, Lake St. Clair receives the river Thames from the Canada side, which is navigable to Chat- ham, some 24 miles ; also the waters of Clinton River from the west or American side, the latter being navigable to Mt. Clemens, Michigan. Several other streams flow into the lake from Canada, the prin- dpal of which is the River Sydenham. Much of the land bordering on the lake is low and marshy, as well as the islands ; and in places there are large plains which are used for grazing cattle. Ashley, or New Baltimore, situ- ated on the N. W. side of Lake St. Clair, 30 miles from Detroit, is a new and flourishing place, and has a fine sectiou of country in the rear. It contains three steam saw-mills, several other manufac- tories, and about 1,000 inhabitants. A steamboat runs from this place to Detroit. Mt. Clemens, Macomb Co., Mich., is situated on Clinton River, six miles above its entrance into Lake St. Clair, and about 30 miles from Detroit by lake and river. A bteamer plies daily to and from Detroit during the season of navigation. Mt. Clemens contains the county buildings, several churches, three hotels, and a num- ber of stores and manufacturing establish- ments, and about 2,000 inhabitants. De- troit is distant by plank road only 20 miles. Chatham, C. W., 46 miles from Detroit by railroad route, and about 24 miles above the mouth of the river Thames, which enters into Lake St. Clair, is a port of entry and thriving place of business, where have been built a large number of steamers and sail- vessels. Alqonac, Mich., situated near the foot of St. Clair River, 40 miles from Detroit, contains a church, two or three saw- mills, a grist-mill, woollen factory, and about 700 inhabitants. Newport, Mich., seven miles farther north, is noted for steamboat building, there being extensive ship-yards, where are annually employed a large number of wctrkmen. Here are four steam saw- mills, machine shops, etc. Population about 1,200. Belle River here enters the St. Clair from the west. ^ St. Clair Strait connects Lake Huron with Lake St. Clair, and discharges the surplus waters of Lakes Superior, Mich- igan, and Huron. It flows in a southerly direction, and enters Lake St. Clair by six channels, the north one of which, on the Michigan side, is the only one at present navigated by large vessels in ascending and descending the river. It receives several tributaries from the west, or Michigan; the principal of which are Black River, Pine River, and Belle River, and several rivers flow into it from tlie east, or Canadian side. It has several flourishing villages on its banks. It is 48 miles long, from a half to a mile wide, and has an average depth of from 40 to 60 feet, with a current of three miles an hour, and an entire descent of about 16 feet. Its waters are clear and transparent, the navigation easy, and the scenery varied and beautiful-— forming for its en- tire length, the boundary between the United States and Canada. The banks of the upper portion are high ; those of the lower portion are low and in parts in- clined to be marshy. Both banks of the river are generally well settled, and many of the farms are beautifully situated. There are several wharves constructed on the Canada side, for the convenience of supplying the numerous steamboais pass- ing and repassing with wood. There is also a settlement of the Chippewa In- dians in the township of Sarnia, Canada ; the Indians reside in small log or bark houses of their own erection. The City of St. Clair, Mich., is pleasantly situated on the west side of St. Clair Strait, 56 miles from Detroit and 14 miles from Lake Huron. This is a thriv- TRIP FROM DETROIT TO MACKINAC, OREEN BAY, CHICAGO, ETC. 60 ing place, with many fine building^ and is a great lumber dep6t. It contains the county buildings for St. Clair Co., several churches and hotels, one flouring Tiill, and five steam saw-mills, besides other manu- facturing establishments, and about 3,000 inhabitants. St. Clair has an active business in the construction of steamers and other lake craft. The site of old Ihrt St. Glairj now in ruins, is on the border of the town. SOUTHBRLAND, 0. W., Is a Btiiall Village on the Canada shore, opposite St. Clair. It was laid out in 1833 by a Scotch gentle- man of the same name, who here erected an Episcopal church, and made other valuable improvements. MooPE, is a small village ten miles below Sarnia on the Canada side. Fromepield, or Talpourd's, C. W., is another small village, handsomely situated four and a half miles below Sarnia. Here is an Episcopal church, a windmill, and a duster of dwellings. The city of Port Huron, St. Clair Co., Mich., a port of entry, is advantageous- ly situated on the west bank of St. Clair River, at the mouth of Black River, two miles below Lake Huron. It was char- tered in 1858, and now contains one Con- gregational, one Episcopal, one Baptist, one Methodist, and one Roman Catholic Church ; six hotels, and public houses, forty stores, and several warehouses ; one steam flouring-mill, eight steam saw-mills, producing annually a large amount of lumber, the logs being rafted down Black River, running through an extensive pine T3gion ; here arc also, two yards for build- ing of lake crafi, two refineries of petrole- um oil, one iron foundry, and several other manufacturing establishments. Popula- tion in 1860, 4,000. During the season of navigation, there is daily intei-course by steamboats with Detroit, Saginaw, and ports on the Upper Lakes. A steam ferry-boat also plies be- tween Port Huron and Sarnia, C. W., the St, Clair River here being about one mile in width. A branch of the Grand Trunk Railway runs from Fort Gratiot, one mile and a half above Port Huron, to Detroit, a distance of 62 miles, affording alto- gether speedy mtdes of conveyance. A railroad is also proposed to run from Port Huron, to intersect with the Detroit and Milwaukee Railroad, at Owasso, Mich- igan. Fort Gratiot, one and a half miles north of Port Huron, lies directly oppo- site Point Henry, C. W., both situated at the foot of Lake Huron, where commences St. Clair River. It has become an impor- tant point since the completion of the Grand Trunk Railway of Canada, finished in 1859, which road terminates by a branch at Detroit, Mich., thus forming a direct railroad communication from Lake Huron, eastward, to Montreal, Quebec, and Portland, Maine. The village stands contiguous to the site of Fort Gratiot, and contains besides the railroad buildings, which are exten- sive, one church, five public houses, the Gratiot House being a well-kept hotel; two stores, one oil refinery, and about 400 inhabitants. A steam ferry-boat plies across the St. Clair River, to accommodate passengers and freight; the river here being about 1,000 feet wide, and running with considerable velocity, having a depth of from 20 to 60 feet. In a military and commercial point of view, this place attracts groat attention, no doubt, being destined to increase in population and importance. The Fort was built in 1814, at the close of the war with Great Britain, and consists of a stockade, including a magazine, barracks, and other accommodations for a garrison of one bat- talion. It fully commands the entrance to Lake Huron from the American shore, and is an interesting landmark to the mar- iner. Sarnia, 0. W., situated on the east bank of St. Clair River, two miles belov 70 -m TRIP THROUGH THE LAKES. Lake Huron and 68 above Detroit, is a port of entry and a place of considerable trade ; two lines of railroad terminate at this point, and it is closely cornocted with Port Huron on the American shore by means of a steam ferry. The town con- tains a court-house and jail, county regis- ter's office and town hall ; one Episcopal, one Methodist, one Congregational, one Baptist, one Roman Catholic, and one Free Church ; seven public houses, the princi- pal being the Al&:mnder Home and the Western Hotel; twenty stores and sev- eral groceries; two grain elevators, two steam saw-mills ; one steam grist-mill, one large barrel factory, one steam cabinet factory, one steam iron foundry, and one refinery of petroleum oil, besides other manufacturing establishments. Popula- tion, 2,0''0. The Grand Trunk Railway of Canada terminates at Point Edward, 2 miles from Samia, extending eastward to Montreal, Quebec, and Portland, Me. ; a branch of the Great Western Railway also termi- nates at Samia, affording a direct commu- nication with Niagara Falls, Boston, and New York. Steamers run from Samia to Goderich and Saugeen, C. W. ; also to and from Detroit, and ports on the Upper Lakes. The celebrated EnniskiUen Oil Wells, yielding an immense quantity of petroleum oil of a superior quality, are distant some 18 or 20 miles from Sarnia, this being the nearest shipping port. These wells are easy of access by means of railway and plank-roads ; the oil is brought to Sarnia in barrels, and much of it shipped from hence direct to European ports, passing down the St. Lawrence River. The St. Clair River, opposite Sarnia, here one mile in width, flows downward with a strong current, at the rate of about six miles an hour. Steamboat Route from Sar- nia to Goderlcli, Saugeen, etc. ,,. . ^. Steamers running to and from Detroit on their way to tlie different ports on the east shore of Lake Huron, usually hug the Canada side, leaving the broad waters of the lake to the westward. Point Edward, 2 miles above Sarnia, lies at the foot of Lake Huron, opposite Fort Gratiot, where are erected a large depdt and warehouses connected with the Grand Trunk Railway of Canada. Here terminates the grand railroad connection extending from the Atlantic ocean to the Upper Latces. It also commands the entrance into Lake Huron and is an im- portant military position although at pres- ent unfortified. In the vicinity is an ex- cellent fishery, from whence large quanti- ties of fish are annually exported. Bayfield, C. W., ^08 miles from De- troit, is a new and fiourishing place, sit- uated at the mouth of a river of the same name. Goderich, 120 miles north of Detroit, is situated on elevated ground at the mouth of Maitland River, where is a good harbor. This is a very important and growing place, where terminates the Buf- falo and Huron Kaihroad^ ItiO miles in length. {See page 53.) Kincardine, thirty miles from Gode- rich, is another port on the Canadian side of Lake Huron, where the British steam- ers land and receive passengers on their trips to Saugeen. Saugeen, C. W., is situated at the mouth of a river of the same name, where is a good harbor for steamers and lake craft. This is the most northern port to which steamers now run on the Canada side of Lake Huron, and will no doubt, ere long be reached by railroad. !i til TRIP FROM DETROIT TO MACKIBTAC, ORBBN BAT, CHICAGO, KTC. 71 steamboat Route from Port Uurou to Sagiua^v €;ity, etc. On leaving the wharf at Port Huron, the steamers pass Fort Gratiot and enter the broad waters of Lake Hiiron, one of the Great Upper Lakes, all alike celebrated for the sparkUng purity of their waters. The shores are for the most part low, being covered hy a heavy grovrth of forest trees. Lakbpoet, 11 miles from Port Hu- ron, is a small village lying on the lake shore. Lbxinotok, 11 miles further, is the capital of Sanilac County, Michigan, where is a good steamboat landing and a flourishing settlement. Port Sanilao, 34 miles above Port Huron, is anotlier small settlement. FcRBBSTViLLB, Mich., 47 miles from Port Huron, and 120 miles north of De- troit, situated on the west side of Lake Huron, is a new settlement, where is erected an extensive steam saw-mill. It has some three or four hundred inhabi- tants, mostly engaged in the lumber trade. Several other small settlements are situ- ated on the west shore of Lake Huron, which can be seen from the ascending steamer, before reaching Point auz Bar- lues, about seventy-flve miles above Port Huron. Saginaw Bay is next entered, present- ing a wide expanse of waters ; Lake Hu- ron here attaining its greatest width, where the mariner often encounters fierce storms, which are prevalent on all of the Upper Lakes. To the eastward lies the Georgian Bay of Cauada, with its innu- merable islands. Bay City, or Lower Saginaw, near the mouth of Saginaw River, is a flourish- ing town, with a population of about 2,500. Here is a good harbor^ from whence a large amount of lumber is an- nually exported. It has fifteen saw-mills, and other manufacturing establishments. Steamers rua daily to Detroit and other ports. East Saginaw, situated on the right bank of the river, aboui; one mile below Saginaw City, is a new and nourishing place, and bids fair to be one of the most important cities of the state. It is largely engaged in the lumber trade, and in the manufacture of nalt of a superior quality. There are several largo steam saw-mills, , many with gangs of saws, and capable of sawing from four to five million feet of lumber annually ; grist and fiouring-milla, with four run of stones, planing-mills, foundries, machine shops, breweries, a ship-yard, and other manufacturing es- tablishments, giving employment to a great number of workmen. Here is a well-kept hotel, and several churches ; a banking office and a number of large stores and warehouses. Coal of a good quality is abundant, being found near the river, and the re(«nt discovery of saU springe in the neighborhood is of incal- culable value, the manufacture of salt being carried on very extensively. Popu- lation, 4,500. Several lines of steamers, and one of propellers, sail from this port regularly for Detroit and other lake ports. It is near the head of navigation for lake craft, where five rivers unite with the Saginaw, giving several hundred miles of water communication for river rafting and the floating of saw-logs. The surrounding country is rich in pine, oak, cherry, black- walnut, and othsr valuable timber. A railroad is finished from this place to Flinty connecting by stages with the De- troit and Milwaukee railroad. Saginaw City, Saginaw County, Mich., is handsomely situated on the left bank of th<) river, 23 miles above its mouth. It contains a court-house and jail, several churches, two hotels, fifteen stores, two warehouses, and six steam saw-mills. Population about 3,000. There is a fine secti' \ of country in the rear of Saginaw, \m 72 •jf% .Aisi^'tjir'-KarE/f; TRIP THROTTOH THE LAKES. ■T->«;f.!;irij;.r s/^^ij^T, i^'awt much of which is heavily timbered ; the ■oil produces grain in abundance, while the streams afford means of easy trans* portation to market. Steamers run daily f cm Suginaw City and East Saginaw to Detroit, Chicago, &o., and other ports on the lakes, during :■ •, Mr 'p-- ,v?^iiii.i^ m i^^ ./i ''- •»■ .•v;.,r;i '^'i i'/'.; r*. ■?:.• .'41 '■'( : J]'- '. ^ • • ■ *;.: ^^ ^.JSJtif:':s. :'ii'sU-'-y •r 1 4tj: irf '.', 6f?«. ^<^'yl .* ;*,' wCi ... -j;...-- ;o •'. 4 -'•> * -I- V--- >C* ''■ •ji ".V ■* f LAKE HXmOlf. 3 • i. f. ;J The waters of Lake Huron, lying be- tween 43" and 46° north latitude, are ■urrounded by low shores on every side. The most prominent features are Saginaw Bay on the southwest, and the Georgian ^y on the northeast; the latter large body of water being entirely in the Umits of Canada. The lake proper, may be said to be 100 miles in width, from east to west, and 250 miles in length, from south to north, terminating at the Straits of Mackinac. It is nearly destitute of is- lands, presenting one broad expanse of waters. It possesses several good har- bors on its western i^ores, although as yet but little frequented. Point auz Barques, Thunder Bay, and Thunder Bay Islands, are prominent points to the mariner. * Tawas, or Ottawa Bay, lying on the northwest side of Saginaw Bay, affords a good harbor and refuge during storms, as well as Thunder Bat, lying farther to the north. Off Saginaw Bay, the widest part of the lake, rough weather is often experienced, rendering it necessary for steamers and sail vessels to run for a har- bor or place of safety. In addition to the surplus waters which Lake Huron receives through the Straits of Mackinac and the St. Mary's River from the north, it receives tho waters of Saginaw River, and several other small streams fi-om the west. This lake drains but a very small section of country com- pared to its magnitude, while its depth is a matter of astonishment, being from 100 to "7 60 feet, according to recent surveys; I altitude above the ocean, 674 feet, being 26 feet below the surface of Lake Supe- rior. Its outlet, the St. Clair River, does not seem to be much larger than the St Mary's River, its principal inlet, thus leav- ing nearly all its other waters falling in the basin, to pass off by evaporation. On entering the St Clair River, at Fort Gra- tiot, after passing over the Upper Lakes, the beholder is surprised to find all these accumulated waters compressed down to a width of about 1,000 feet, the depth varying from 20 to 60 feet, with a strong downward current. The Straits of Mackinac, connecting Lakes Huron and Michigan, is a highly interesting body of water, embosoming several picturesque islands, with beautiful headlands along its shores. It varies in width from 5 to 30 miles, from mainland to mainland, and may be said to be from 30 to 40 miles in length. Here are good fishing grounds, as well as at several other points on Lake Huron and Georgian Bay. The climate of Lake Huron and its shores is perceptibly warmer than Lake Superior during the spring, summer, and autumn months, while the winter season is usually rendered extremely cold from the prevalence of northerly winds passing over its exposed surface. On the 30th of July, 1860, at 8 A. M., the temperature of the air near the middle of Lake Huron, was 64® Fahr., the water on the surface, 52"*, and at the bottom, 50 fathoms (300 feet) 42** Fahr."'"'"** .--«;.. * In m THS LOWEB FEimrStrLA 07 UCHIOAK. Tbb Lower Peninsula of Michigan is nearly surrounded by the waters of the Great Lakes, and, in this respect, its situ- ation is naturally more favorable for all the purposes of trade and commerce than any other of the Western States. The numerous streams which penetrate every portion of the Peninsula^ some of which are navigable for steamboats a con- siderable distance from the lake, being natural outlets for the products of the interior, render this whole region desira- ble for purposes of settlement and cultiva- tion. Even as far north as the Strait of Hackinac, the soil and climate, together with the valuable timber, offer great in- ducements to settlers ; and if the proposed railroads, under the recent grant of large portions of these lands by Congress, are constructed from and to the different points indicated, this extensive and heavi- ly timbered region will speedily be re- claimed, and become one of the most substantial and prosperous agricultural portions of the "West. It is well that in the system of compen- sation, which seems to be a great law of the universe, the vast prairies which comprise so large a portion of this great Western domain are provided so well with corresponding regions of timber, affording the necessary supply of lumber for the demand of the increasing population which is so rapidly pouring into these Western States. The State of Michigan — all the waters of which flow into the Basin of the St. Lawrence — Northern Wisconsin, and Min- nesota are the sources ' from which the States of Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, and Iowa, and a large portion of the prairie country west of the Mississippi, must derive their supply of this important article (lumber). The supply in the West is now equal to the demand, but the consumption is so great, and the demand so constantly increasing with the development and settlement of the country, that of necessity, within comparatively a very few years, these vast forests will be exhausted. But as the timber is exhausted the soil is prepared for cultivation, and a large portion of the northern part of the southern Peninsula of Michigan will be settled and cultivated, as it is the most reliable wbeat-growing portion of the Union. Besides the ports and towns already described, there are on Lake Huron, after leaving Saginaw Bay, going north, several settlements and lumber establishments, fisheries, &c. These are at Tawas Bay, mouth of the River au Sable, Black. River, Alpena, situated at the head of Thun- der Bay, is a very flourishing town, and the capital of Alpena County. It contains about 500 inhabitants, and four saw-mills, possessing a superior water-power on the river here emptying into the bay. It is both a lumber and fishing station of con- siderable importance. Duncan is the next place of importance on the lake coast, situated near the mouth of Cheboygan River. Tlie United States Land OflBce for this district is located at this place. Nearly opposite lies Bois Blanc Island, a large and fertile tract of land. The celebrated Island op Mackinac is next reached, lying within the straits, surrounded by a cluster of interesting points of land justly celebrated in Indian legends and traditions. Old Mackinac, lying on the mainland, is one of the most interesting points, being celebrated both in French and English history when those two great powers con- tended for the possession of this vast Lake Region. It is proposed to build a railroad from Old Mackinac to Saginaw, and one to the southern confiues of the State, while another line of road will extend north- westward to Lake Superior, crossing the A •• , i ^ '■: 74 TRIP THROUOII THE LAKES. 'tin;; straits by a steam ferry. A town plot has been surveyed, and preparations made for settlement. Passing around the western extremity of the Peninsula, at the Waugosharice Light and Island, the next point is LitUe Traverse Bay, a most beautiful sheet of water. About fifteen miles southwesterly from Little Traverse we enter Grand Traverse Bay, a large and beautiful arm of the lake, extending about thirty miles inland. This bay is divided into two parts by a point of land, from two to four miles wide, extending from the head of the bay about eighteen miles toward the lake. The country around this bay is exceedingly picturesque, and embraces one of the finest agricultural portions of the State. The climate is mild, and fruit and grain of all kinds suitable to a northern latitude are produced, with less liability to injury from frost than in some of the southern portions of the State. Grand Traverse City is located at the head of the west arm of the bay, and is the terminus of the proposed railroad from Grand Rapids, a distance of about 140 miles. Passing out of the bay and around the point dividing the west arm from the lake, we first arrive at the river Aux Bees Sceis. There is here a natural harbor, capable of accommodating the larger class of vessels and steamboats. A town named Frank- fort has been commenced at this place, and witii its natural advantages, and the enterprise of parties who now contemplate making further improvements, it will soon become a very desirable and convenient point for the accommodation of navigators. The islands comprising the Beavers, the Manitous, and Fox Isles should here be noticed. The Beavers lie a little south of west from the entrance to the Strait of Mackinac, the Manitous a little south of these, and the Foxes still farther down the lake. These are all valuable for fishing purposes, and for wood and lumber. Lying in the route of all the steamboat lines from Chicago to Buffalo and the Upper Lakes, the harbors on these islands are stopping- points for the boats, and a profitable trade is conducted in furnishing the necessar^r supplies of wood, etc. We next arrive at Manistee, a small but important 8€ ttlement at the mouth of the Manistee Biror. The harbor is a natural one, but requires some improve- ment. A large trade is carried on with Chicago in lumber. The next point of Importance is the mouth of the Pere Ma/rqueUe River. Here is the terminus of the proposed railroad from Flint, in Gonesee County, connect- ing with Detroit by the Detroit and Mil- waukee Railway, a distance of about 180 miles. The harbor is very superior, and the country in the vicinity is well adapted for settlement. About 16 miles in the inte- rior is situated one of the most compact and extensive tracts of pine timber on the western coast. About forty miles south of this, in the county of Oceana, a small village is loca- ted at the mouth of White River. The har- bor here is also a natural one, and the region is settled to considerable extent by farmers. Lumber is, however, the prin- cipal commodity, and the trade is prin- cipally with the Chicago market The next point, Muskeook, at the mouth of tlie Muskegon River, is supported prin- cipally by the large lumber region of the interior. Numerous steam saw-mills are now in active operation here, giving the place an air of life and activity. The harbor is one of the best on the lake, and is at present accessible for all the vessels trading between Muskegon and Chicago. Grand Haven, Ottawa Co., Mich, is situated on both sides of Grand River, at its entrance into Lake Michigan, here eighty-five miles wide; on the opposite side lies Milwaukee, Wis. For further de-tcrip- iion, see page 66. er Lakes, stopping- able trade necessary i, a small mouth of rbor is a improve- l on with ice is the er. Here d railroad ', oonnect- b and Mil- about 180 r, and the kdapted for I the inte- }t compact iber on the his, in the ge is loca- The har- and the extent by the prin- e is prin- to the mouth >rted prin* region of saw-mills re, giving vitj. st on the for all the egon and Mich, is River, at ;an, here K>site side w descrip- :j. '■ DIBECT STEAMBOAT B0T7TE FROM DETEOIT TO OREEir BAY, CHICAGO, &o. Sailing direct through Lake Huron to Mackinac, or to the De Tour entrance to 'St. Mary's River, a distance of about 330 miles, the steamer often runs out of sight of land on crossing Saginaw Bay. Thunder Bay Light is first sighted and passed, and then Presque Isb Light, when the lake narrows and the Strait of Mack- inac is soon entered, »-'here lies the ro- mantic Island of Mack-:iac. The Strait of Mackinac, with the approaches thereto from Lakes Huron and Michigan, will al- ways command attention from the passing traveller. Through this channel will pass, for ages to come, a great current of com- merce, and its shores wiU be enlivened with civilized life. In this great commercial route. Lake Huron is traversed its entire length, often affording the traveller a taste of sea-sick- ness and its consequent evils. Yet there often are times when Lake Huron is hard- ly ruffled, and the timid passenger enjoys the voyage with as much zest as the more experienced mariner. Mackinac, crowned by a fortress, where wave the Stars and the Stripes, the gem of the Upper Lake islands, may vie with any other locality for the salubrity of its cli- mate, for its picturesque beauties, and for its vicinity to fine fishing-grounds. Here the invalid, the seeker of pleasure, as well as the sportsman and angler, can find enjoyment to their heart's content during warm weather, fhr description, seep. 88. On leaving Mackinac for Green Bay, the steamer generally runs a west course for the mouth of the bay, passing the Beaver Islands in Lake Michigan before entering the waters of Green Bay, about 150 miles. Summer Island lies on the north side and Rock Island Ues on the south side of the entrance to Green Bay, forming a charming view from the deck of a steamer. ■ :'^>, ^^"'^ ;^5^- Washington or Potawatombb Island, Chambeks' Island, and other small isluids are next passed on tlie upward trip toward the head of the bay. Wasiiinoton Harbor, situated at the north end of Washington Island, is a pictu- resque fishing station, affording a good steamboat-landing and safe anchorage. Green Bay, about 100 miles long and from 20 to 30 miles wide, is a splendid sheet of water, destined no doubt to be enlivened with commerce and pleasure excursions. Here are to be seen a num- ber of picturesque islands and headlands. Several important streams enter into Green Bay, the largest of which is Neenah or Fox River, at its head, and is the outlet of Winnebago Lake. Menomonee River forms the boundary between the States of Wisconsui and Michigan, and empties in- to the bay opposite Green Island. The recent improvement of the Fox and Wisconsin Rivers, not only opens steam- boat navigation between the Bay and the head of Lake Winnebago, but it connects the Fox and Wisconsin Rivers, one of which, flowing northward, falls into the At- lantic through the St. Lawrence, and ^he other, running southward, discharges its waters, through the Mississippi, into the Gulf of Mexico. By this connection a steamer can start from New Orleans, pass up the Mississippi to the mouth of the Wisconsin, pass up this river to Portage, through a short canal to the Upper Fox Rivers, down this river to Lake Winne- bago, at Oshkosh, — down the lake to the point where it contracts into the Lower Fox, — down this romantic river some thirty-five miles, by means of numerous canals around the principal rapids, into Green Bay, and so on without interruption through the great lakes into the St. LaW' rence to the Atlantic Ocean. fn TRIP TIIRODOII THE LAKES. Green Bay, one of the most favored cities of Wisconsin, the Capital of Brown County, is advanta- geously situated near the mouth of Fox or Neenah river, at its entrance into Green Bay, where is a good and secure harbor. It lies 90 miles southwest from Lake Michigan, by water, 26 miles due west of Kewaunee, on the west shore of Lake Michigan, and 116 miles north from Milwaukee. The town is handsomely ated, and con- tains many large wareLi ases and elegant residences, together with several churches, hotels, and stores of dififerent kinds, and about 5,000 inhabitants. The improve- ment of Fox Biver by dams and locks, in connection with the improvements on the Wisconsin River, affords an uninterrupted steam navigation from Green Bay to Prai- rie du Chien, on the Mississippi River — thus making Green Bay a great point for the trans-shipment of goods and produce of every variety ; the largest class steam- ers and propellers running to Chicago on the south, Saut Ste. Marie on the north, as well as to CoUingwood, to Sarnia, to Detroit, and to Buffalo on the east. The lumber trade of Green Bay is immense, this whole section of country abounding in timber of different kinds the most use- ful for building purposes. There is no city '"n the West which can boast of a po- sition so advantageous commercially, or which will compare with it in after years in the wealth and extent of its trade. With an uninterrupted water communica- tion East and South, a harbor five miles ^ in length, capable of accom- modating the shipping of the whole lakes, it will eventual, ly be connected by Railroad with every important point W( stand North, as the near- est route to and from the East-, em and Southern markets. AsTOR is the name of a sub- urb of Green Bay, lying at the mouth of Fox River, while on the opposite side of the stream stands Fort How a ud, surrounded by a village of the same name, where ter- minates the Chicago and Northwest Rail way, running south to Chicago, 242 miles. Oconto, situated on Green Bay, at the mouth of the Oconto River, is a new and thriving lumber settlement. It lies 25 miles north of the town of Green Bay, having daily communication by steamboat. As regards the lumbering interests of this region, a late writer says : " Oconto County is a portion of the great Pine re- gion of Northern Wisconsin, lying along the west shore of Green Bay, and is, for lumbering purposes, one of the most im- portant counties in the State— being easy of access during the season of navigation, and supplied with an almost exhaustless amount of excellent pine timber. Mem- kaunee is at the extreme northern verge of the county, at the mouth of Menomo- nee River, and is already the seat of an important trade. The settlement (which also includes "Mission Point" and "Mari- nette") is scattered along the bank of the river for a distance of some two miles, and contains about 1,500 inhabitants. "The extensive mills of the *N. Y. Lumber Co.' are located at this point, and are well worth a trip from your city to see. Some idea may be formed of the vast amount of business done by this Company, when the fact is stated, that they had within their booms, at the com- mencement of the season, over fifty aaer of logs. This vast amount of material will find its way into market, before the season ell k oil all m; thi is kidl esti =vjs-f <: •£:.:.. 5 of {iccom- >ping of the U evontual- )y Railroad rtant point 18 the ncar- m the East-, markets. no of a sub- e mouth of 3 side of the surrounded where t'^r- hwest Fail , 242 miles. Bay, at the a new and It lies 25 Jreen Bay, steamboat. nterests of : " Oconto it Pine re- png along and is, for most im* eing easy avigation, haustless jr. Mene- \exvL verge Menomo jeat of an it (which id "Mari- knk of the ro miles, tants. 'N. Y. )oint, and ir city to of the by this ted, that the com- Yfty aoer (rial will le season BTBAMDOAT ROUTE FaObf DBTUOIT TJ GREEN BAT, CHICAGO, ETC. 77. closes, in the shape of good marketable lumber. This Company's Mills alone turn out over half a million of feet per week, all of which, I believe, goes to the Chicago market. "But it must be borne in mind that this is but a fraction of the lumber which is made in this county. There are, be- sides the mills here, extensive lumbering establishments at Peshtigo, Oloton, Pen- Ruukee, and Little Suamico, which proba- bly turn out in the aggregate at least two million feet of lumber per week, or eighty niillions per year — which added to the es- timate for this place, makes a yearly pro- duct of one hundred and twer ty millions. A fair amount of business, for a single county of not over 5,000 inhabitants." Nenomonbb City, Oconto County, Wis., ia a thriving settlement, situated on the west side of Green Bay, near the mouth of Nenomonee River, containing 2,000 inhabitants, 5 large saw-mills, and several stores. The country to the west and north of this place is as yet a wilder- ness, inhabited only by a fow roving In- dians. The Kenomonee River forms the boundary, in part, between Michigan and Wisconsin. Penbaukbe, pEBimoo, and other towns are springmg up on the west shore of Green Bay, where are to be found numer- ous large lumber establishments situated on the streams miming into the bay. EscANABA, Delta Co., Michigan, is a new and promising town situated on the western shore of Little Bay de Noc, 120 miles north of the city of Green Bay, and is the southern terminus of the Peninsula Railroad of Michigan. This place, laid out in the Spring of 1864, has command- ing advantages, where is a good and se- cure harbor of easy access, with a suffi- cient depth of water for the largest class of vessels navigating the lakes. The docks erected by the railroad company are of a substantial and conmiodiouB character, intended for the transhipment of iron and copper ore from the Lake Su- perior mines, distant about 66 miles. The situ of the town lies on Sand Point, where is a favorable view of the waters of Green Bay lying to the south, and Little Bay de Noo on the north. The streets are laid out at right angles, witii ample public grounds adjoining the water- front. Stores and warehouses are about being erected, also a church, and a first- class hotel. The future of this place is hard to predict, its growth being identi- fied with the rich mineral deposits of tho Upper Peninsula of Michigan, bordering on Lake Superior. Steamers run from Green Bay to Es- canaba, connecting with the Northwestern Railway, extending to Chicago, and with the Peninsula Railroad running to tho Iron Mountain on Lake Superior. GsNA, or Mason, situated on Little fiay de .\oc, at the northern extremity of Green Bay, is a new and promising place. A mail route is now opened from Gena, situated at the head of Green Bay, to Marquette, Lake Superior, a distance by land of about 56 miles. < . r s^. > .1.'' J ' t Route from Oreen Bay to Fond du dac, Wisconsin. There s now a railroad and steamboat route, extending from Green Bay to Ap- pleton, Oshkosh, and Fond du Lac, situa- ted at the head of Lake "Winnebago, 60 miles distant, the latter passing through Fox River and the above beautiful sheet of water. Fox or Neenah River rises in Marquette Co., Wis., and passing through Lake Win- ndbago, forms its outlet. This important stream io rendered navigable for steamers 78 TRIP TIIROrOII THE LAirES. of ft small class by means of dams and locks, forming, in connection witti a short canal to the Wisconsin River, a direct wa- ter communication from Green Bay to the Mississippi River, a distance of about 200 miles. The rapids in the lower part of Fox River afford an immense water-power, while the upper section of country through which it flows, produces lumber and grain in great abundance. Here is a fall of 170 feet in the distance of 35 miles, before en- tering Lake Winnebago. De Perb, 5 miles above Green Bay, is a town of about 700 inhabitants, where is a fall of 8 feet, also a lock for the passage of steamers. Little Kaukauka, 11 miles, has a fall of 8 feet, with look and dam. Wriohtstown, 16 miles, is a small set- tlement, where is a steam saw-mill and other manufacturing establishments. Rapid db Croopb, 2 miles further, is a steamboat landing. Here is a lock and dam, there being a fall of about 10 feet. Kaukauna, 3 miles further, is a small village. Here are five locks, overcoming a fall of 60 feet. Little Chute, 25 miles from Green Bay, is a small French settlement, where is an old Roman Cathohc Mission House. Here are four locks, there being a descent of 40 feet in the river. Applbton, Outaganie Co., Wis., is situ- ated on Fox or Neenah River, 30 miles from its entrance into Green Bay, and five miles from Lake Winnebago, where are rapids called the Grand Chute. The river descends here about 30 feet in one mile and a half, affording an inexhaustible amount of water-power. Here are located three fiouring-mills, six saw-mills, and several other extensive manufacturing es- tablishments. This is the capital of the county, where is situated the Lawrence University ; and it is no doubt destined to become a large manufacturing and com- mercial place, from the facilities which it possesses, by means of navigation and hy- draulic power. Population, 4000. Steam- ers run south into Lake Winnebago, atid north into Green Bay. The approach to Appleton fVoni Green Bay, by water, is most lovely and pictur. esque, — the river here winding through a rich section of country, clothed for several miles by a dense forest, extending to the very margin of the water. During the early autumn months the scene is truly gorgeous, the foliage presenting every variety of color. Menasha, 35 miles from Green Bay, is situated on an expansion of the river, hero called Lake Butte dts Marts, where is a lock and a canal of about one mile in length. Here are several large manufacturing es- tablishments, and a population of about 2,500. Neenah, lying at the foot of Lake Win- nebago, on the west shore, is a flourishing village, of about 2,500 inhabitants. Lake Winnebago is a most beatitiful sheet of water, being 32 miles long and about 12 miles wide, with bold land on the east shore, while on the west it seems elevated but a few feet above the waters of the lake. It abounds with several va- rieties of fish, of a fine flavor, affording rare sport to the angler. Steamers run through the Upper Fox or Wolf River, emptying in- to the lake at Oshkosh, for upwards of 100 miles, bringing down immense quantities of lumber and agricultural products. The City of Oshkosh, lying on the west side of Lake Winnebago, 20 miles north of Fond du Lac, is a large and flourishing place, being favorably situated at the mouth of Fox River on both sides of the stream. It now contains an active population of about 9,000 inhabitants. From its wharves steamers run to all the ports on the lake and Fox River, while the Chicago and Northwestern Railway extends northward to Green Bny. It contains the county buildings, 10 churches, several well-kept hotels, 100 stores of different kinds, be- sides steam grist-mills, steam saw-mill;*, ml ROUTE FROM ORBBN DAT TO FOND DU LAi.% WIS. 7d iron foundrios, cabinot-shops, and a groat Dumbor of other manufacturing ostublish- ments. This is a groat mart for lumber, being brought down the Fox or Wolf Kiver for upwards of 100 miles, this stream flowing through a tine pine region of coun- try, for which northern Wisconsin is justly celebrated. Fond Du Lao, capital of Fond du Lac County, is a flounshing city favorably situ- ated at the head of LiEike Winnebago, 87 inilt'3 N. N. W. from Milwaukee, and 176 miles from Chicago, by the Chicago and Kurthwestem Railway, now finished through to Green Bay, a total distance of 242 miles. Here are located the coimty buildings, 8 churches, 4 banks, 6 public-houses, 100 stores of different kinds, a steam grist- mill, 10 steam saw-mills, a steam car fac- tory, steam-engine manufactory, machine- shops, and various other manufacturing establishments. The lumber and produce business is very extensively carried on here, affording profitable returns. Fond du Lac is celebrated for its fountains, water being found of a pure quality by means of Artesian Wells, in which the city abounds. The Fox River Improvement is a work of great magnitude, affording by means of locks and dams a water communication from Green Bay to Lake Winnebago, and thence south-westward throtigh the Upper Fox river to I'ortago City, where, by niuans of a canal, it interlocks with the Wis- consin River, falling into the Mississippi at Prairie du Cliieu. This enterprise is thus graphically de- scribed: " * Meetino or THE Waters.' — A gen- tleman, recently from Green Bay, men- tioned a curious fact a day or two since, illustrative of the results of the completion of the liiver Improvement. He saw lying at the docks in that place the steamer Appleto7i Belle, built at Pittsburgh, and the steamer Gurdon Grant, built at Philadel- phia — points on opposite sides of the Alle- ghany Mountains, and on waters Howing on the one hand to the Atlantic, and on the other to the Mississippi and Gulf of Mexico. The BeUe had sailed northward and west- ward through the Ohio, Mississippi, and Wisconsin ; and the Grant in ?, contrary direction through the Delaware and Hud- son, along the Erie Canal, and the chain of the Great Lakes. These are the victories of commerce, in which Wisconsin is play- ing a prominent part" The Trip from Chicaqo to Mackinac, &c., connecting at the latter place with the Green Bay route, is fully described iu another part of this work. Ports of Lake Michigan situated on the East and South Shores* Michifpan City, Ind., situated at the extreme south end of Lake Michigan, is dis- tiuit 45 miles from Chicago by water, and 228 miles from Detroit by railroad route. Tlie New Albany and Salem Railroad, 228 miles in length, terminates at this place, connecting with the Michigan Central Railroad. Several plank roads also ter- minate here, affording facilities for cross- ing the extensive prairies lying in the rear. Here are several large storehouses situated at the mouth of Trail Creok, in- tended for the storage and shipment of wheat and other produce ; 16 or 20 stores of different kinds, several hotelii, and a branch of the State Bank of Indiana. It was first settled in 1831, with the expec- tation that it would become a great em- porium of trade ; but owing to the want of a good harbor, and the rapid increase of Chicago, the expectations of its founders have not been realized. It now contains about 3,000 inhabitants, and is steadily increasing in wealth and numbers. do ■.>irr\' :<£■ TRIP THROUGH THE LAKES. \T.*i aTr.'0"; r , ': . V.iH! ?,■; iiihi iiii i! New Buffalo, Mich., l/iog 60 miles east of Chicago by steamboat route, is situ- ated on the line of the Michigan Central Railroad, 218 mihs west of Detroit. Here have been erected £. light-house and pier, the latter affordiLjj a good landing for steamers and lake craft. The settlement contains two or throe hundred inhabi- tants, and several storea and storehouses. It is surrounded by a light, sandy soil, which abounds all along the east and south shores of Lake Michigan. 8t. Joseph, Berrien Co., Mich., is ad- vantageously situated on the east shore of Lake Michigan, at the mouth of St. Joseph River, 194 miI(5S west of Detroit. Here is a good harbor, affording about 10 feet of water. The village contains about 1,000 inhabitants, and a number of stores and storehouses. An active trade in lumber, grain, and fruit is carried on at this place, mostly with the Chicago market, it being alstant about '?0 miles by water. Steamers of a small class run from St. Joseph to Niles and Constantine, a distance of 1 20 miles, to which place the St. Joseph River is navigable. St. Joseph River risos in the southern portion of Michigan and Northern Indiana, and is about 250 miles long Its general course is nearly westward; is very ser- pentine, with an equable current, and flowing through a fertile section of coun- try, celebrated alike for the raising of grain and diflfereut kinds of fruit. There are to be found several flourishing villages on its banks. The principal are Constan- tine, Elkhart, South Bend^ and Niles. Niles, situated on St. Joseph River, is 26 miles above itf] mouth by land, and 191 miles from Detroit by railroad route. This is a flourishing village, containing &i)Ovt 3,000 inhabitants, five churches, tnree l»otel8, several large stores and ilouring milL^; the country around pro- ducing large quantities of wheat and other kinds of grain. A small class c^ steamers run tc St. Joseph belov^ an'^ other places above, on the river, aflfording great facil- ities to trade in this section of country. South Haven^ Van Buren Co., lies at the mouth of Black River. Naples, Allegan Co., lies on the east side of Lake Michigan, near the mouth of the Kalamazoo River. Amsterdam, Ottawa Co., is a, small vil- lage lying near the Lake shore, about 20 raUes south of Grand Haven. Holland, situated on Black Lake, a few miles above Amsterdam, is a thriving town, settled mostly by Hollanders. Here is a good and spacious harbor. The counties of Berrien, Cass, Van Bu- ren, Kalamazoo, Allegan, Kent, and Ot- tawa are all celebrated as a fruit-bearing region. The Ports extendmg from Grand Haven to Saginaw Bay are fully described in another portion of this work, as well as the bays and rivers falling into Lakes Michigan^ and HuroiL €hicag[0, " The Garden City," is advantageously situated on the west side of Lake Michigan, at the mouth of Chica- go River, in N. lat. 41° 52', acd W. long, from Greenwich 87'' 35'. It is elevated eight to ten feet above the lake, which secures it from ordinary floods, and ex- tends westward on both sides of the river, about two miles distant fr< rn its entrance into Lake Michigan, the front on the lake being three or four miles from north to south. The harbor has a depth of from twelve to fourteen ffeet of water, which makes it a commodious and safe haven ; and it has been much imprt^ved artificially by the construction of Diers, which extend on each side of the entrance of tlie river for some distance into Lhe lake, to prevent the accumulation of sand upon the bar. The light-house is on the south side of the harbor, and shows a fixed light on a tower forty feet above the surface of the lake ; t t! o P St of IJl lei I'll t-v T-rs' PORTS OF LAKE MICHIGAN EAST AND SOUTH 8B0RS. ••♦^"- <:^ ; facil- try. lies at le east )uth of lall vil- lout 20 c, a few hriving 3. Hero 7&n Bu- and Ot- -bearing J Haven ribed in I well as Lakes '^tty" is there is also a beacon fight on the end of the pier. In a naval and military point of view, this is one of the most important ports on the upper lakes, and should be strongly defended, it being the " Odessa'^ of these inland seas. The city contains an United States custom-house and post-oflBce building;, a court-house and jail, the county buildings, Ivush Medical College, a ootimuTcial col lego, a marine hi>spital, market-houses, tighty churches, eight banks, several fire und m. "Qe insurance companies, and a muiiOer of large public houses ; gas-works, and water-works. The manufacturing establishments of Chicago are numerous and extensive, consisting of iron-foundries and machine-shops, railroad car manufac- tory, steam saw, planing, and flouring mills, manufactories of agricultural imple- ments, etc. Numerous steamers and pro- pellers ply between this j^ace and Saut Ste. Marie, Lake Superior ports, Colling- wood, Goderich, Detroit, Buffalo, and the various intermediate ports. Population in 1860, 109,260, and is rapidly increasing in numbers and wealth. The principal hotels are the Adams House, Briggs Houne, Lake House, Sherman House, and the Tremont House, besides many other public-houses of less note. Chicago also boasts of several benevolent and charitable institutions, educational and medical ; also hospitals an'^ dispensa- ries, ^ts commerce is already immense, and rapidly incro^ing. 6 The proposed Ship Canal will connect th« waters of the Mississippi with the River St. Lawrence, the waters of which here almost commingle, and no dotibt are destined to be wedded, and to flow iii unison from the cold waters of. the Gulf of St. Lawrence to the warm waters of the Gulf of Mexico, carrying on their tide the rich products of the tropics, the ce- reals of the temperate zone, and the tim- ber and other valuable commodities of the colder region of the American continent. "Chicago, when fairly understood, in a commercial, dimatic, and favored point of view, as regards water and land communi cation, I as probably no equal on the fact of the globe. Standing near the southern border of one of the live great Lakes of AmerM-%, affording four or five thousand miles of inland ship navigation, and by means of the Erie Canal of Now York, favored by an outport on the Atlantic ocean, it only now wasts a Ship Canal to the Mississippi River to give it an outport on the Gulf of Mexico. "As to Railroad facilities, no adequate idea can be conveyed, — the irrm hart alreody extend to Montreal, Quebec, and Portland on the northeast ; to Boston, New York, &c., on the east; to Charleston and , Savannah on the southeast, and to Mo- bile and New Orleans on the south — heing, ere long, no doubt destined to have railroad facilities with other cities to the Gold Regions and the Pacific ocean on the west ; while northward a railroad hne is finished to Green Bay, Wisconsin, and anotiier line nearly (vjmpleted to St. Paul, Minnesota. " Look at a map of the United States and Canada, and see her favored position uear the centre of the temperate zone; while east and west she lies centrally between the Atlantic and eastern slope of the Rocky Mountains. By nature she claims pre-eminence as a great inland city. Give her the boon she asks at this time, L'lnd thfi whole Bepublic will be beaefited, I ', r TRIP THROUGH THE LAKES. J': ,'i ■t I- ;'|l;| inasmuch as it will afford facilities to the far West, and the eastern portions of our wide-extended country. Like the Erie canal, it will even tend to lessen the price of provisions in foreign markets, and at the same time strengUien and enrich our own people, North and South, notwith- standing the latter are now in open rebel- lion." "A late writer remarks, 'Chicago is most emphatically the city of the West ; for when any town can justly claim to be the greatest market for grain, beef, pork, and ifuraber in the world, then we may confidently believe that all else that en- ters into the composition of a great city will gdiher there to build up, if not the greatest, one of the most important cities of the continent.' " The Illinois and Michigan Canal, con- necting Lake Michigan with Illinois Kiv- er, which is sixty feet wide at the top, 6 feet deep, and 107 miles in length, includ- ing five miles of river navigation, termi- nates here, through which is brought a large amount of produce from the south and southwest; and the numerous rail- roads radiating from Chicago add to the vast accumulation which is here shipped for the Atlantic sea-board. Chicago being within a short distance of the most exten- - sire coal-fields to be found in Illinois and the pineries of Michigan and Wisconsin, as well as surrounded by the finest grain region on the face of the globe, miskes it the natural outlet for the varied and rich produce of an immense section of fertile country. ^ The Great Lako Tunnel at Chicago, for the supply of pure water, has already been nearly finished. RAILROADS DIVEROINQ FROM CHICAGO. Miles. 1. Chicago, Alton, and St. Lends Railroad. iSl 8. Chicago, Jiurl/im^ti8 Central leith, oppo- Branches: .808 Miles. ,.14T " ..26T " ..722MlleB. ag^o to tof Lake i».. .«." NAVAL VESSELS ON THE LAKES. r ■ HAVAI VESSELS OK THE LAKES. ' Mississippi and Lake Mighiqan Canal. 83 M',n:'\fK A Report has recently been made in relation to the practicability, cost, and military and commercial advantages of opening a passage for gunboats and armed vessels from the Mississippi to the Lalces, by improving the navigation of the Illinois River, and enlarging the Illinois and Michigan Canal. The following is an extract from the above Report ; " The Great Lakes and the Mississippi River are among the grandest features of the geography of the globe. Their names are at once suggestive of commercial and agricultural wealth and national great- ness. No such systems of internal navi- gation exist e-sewhere in the world. The most carefu '. and accurate statements of their present uses for commercial pur- poses are truly wonderful, while the mag- nificent future to which enlightened enterprise may lead^ tasks the strongest imagination. " The Mississippi system of navigable waters is variously estimated at from 10,000 to 20,000 miles. Its numerous ramifications penetrate a country of un- rivalled fertility, and in many parts abound- ing in useful metals. On the Lakes, we have a coast of 3,500 miles. Their com- merce is estimated at the value of $400, 000,000, 'in articles of prime necessity to the inhabitants of the Eastern States, and to our foreign commerce.' That of the Mississippi, in peaceful times, is sup- posed to equal this. It is the union of these two mighty systems that we con- template in the proposed improvement. "For this purpose no other route exists comparable to the line now proposed, in the economy of cost of the improvement, or in general utility. It is one of nature^ highways— one of the lines which she marks out for the gnidance of the great emigrant movements of the race, and by which topogp-aphy foretells the march of empire. The aboriginal savage travelled it by instinct, and now educated intelli> gence can find no better place for com- pleting and uniting hues of travel and traffic embracing hsdf a continent." Estimate for a Ship and Steamboat Canal from Lake Michigan to the Illinois River, and the improvement of the Illinois River to the Mississippi River ; the canal to be 160 feet wide on the bottom, sides pro- tected with stone waUs 10 feet high ; the canal and river locks to be 350 feet long and 70 feet wide, with depth of water suCBcient to pass steamboats and vessels drawing six feet of water; the canal to be supplied with water from Lake Michi- gan. Chicago to Lockport, 29 miles. The estimated cost of eon^h and rock exrayation on the summit level from .■^, . , Chicago to Loclcport, with walls on both sides 10 feet through the earth, Is $7,092,700 Lockport to Lasalle, 67 miles : The estimated cost of canal to Lake Jollet, and shor- canals at 16 lucks, -' wnlled on both sides ; also six stone dams, 6U0 feet long, eleven canal and five river locks, each 350 feet long and 70 feet wide— making 138 feet of lock- age between Lockport and Lasalle — is 4,081,003 Lasalle to the Mississippi Biver, 220 mi^f'S : The cost of seven tree and crib dams, 900 feet long, the cribs to be ftiled with stone, aiid stone abutments ; also seven stone locks, 350 feet long, and 70 feet wi Tigress, schooner 1 Erie, Pa. Lawrence, brig 20 u Niagara, •* 20 w Ohio, schooner 1 il Porcupine, " 1 tl Ghent, " 1 u Total Guns, 5T Note. — At the conclusion of the war with Great Britain, this squadron, witli the exception of two small vessels, and the prizes captured by the above fleet, under Com. Perry, Sept. 10, 1813, were dismantled and laid up at Erie, Penn., and all subsequently condemned and sold, some having been sunk, with a view to their better preservation. In 1844, the U. S. steamer Michigan, 583 tons, was built at Erie, Pa., and is now in commission on the Upper Lakes. EOTJTE FROM CHICAGO TO MACKIKAC AND SAUT STE. MAEIE. very great ; the carrying trade being destined to increase in proportionate ratio with the population and wealth pouring into this favored section of the Union. On reaching the green waters of Lake Michigan, the city of Chicago is seen stretching along the shore for four or five miles, presenting a fine appearance from the deck of the steamer. Tlie entrance to the harbor at the bar is about 200 feet wide. The bar has from ten to twelve feet water, the lake being subject to about two feet rise and fall. The steamers bound for Mil- waukee and the northern ports usually run along the west shore of the lake with- in sight of land, the banks rising from thirty to fifty feet above the water. Lake Michigan is about seventy miles average width, and 340 .i.iles in extent from Michigan City, Ind., on the south, to the Strait of Mackinac on the north ; it presents a great expanse of water, now traversed by steamers and other vessels of a large class, runn- to the Saut Ste. Marie and Lake Superioi to Collingwood and Goderich, Can. ; to L\ troit, Midi. ; to Cleveland, Oh'O, and to Buffalo, N. Y. From Chicago to Bv.ffalo the distance is about 1,000 miles by water; while from On starting from the steamboat wharf near the mouth of the Chicago River, the Marine Hospital and depot of the Illinois Central Railroad are passed on the right, while the Lake House and lumber-yards are seen on the left or north side of the stream. The government piers, long wooden structures, afford a good entrance to the harbor; a light-house has been constructed on the outer end of the north pier, to guide vessels to the port. The basin completed by the Illinois Central Railroad to facilitate commerce is a substantial work, extending southward for nearly half a mile. It affords ample accommodation for loading and unloading vessels, and transferring the freight to and from the railroad cars. The number of steamers, propellers, and sailing vessels annually arriving and departing from the harbor of Chicago is ROUTF. FRUM CHICAOO TO MACKINAC AND SAUT STB. MARIS. 85 Chicago to Superior City, at the head of Lake Superior, or Fond du Lac, the dis- tance is about the same, thus uSbrding two excursions of 1,000 miles each, over three of the great lakes or inland seas of America^ in steamers of from 1,000 to 2,000 tons burden. During the summer and early autumn mouths the waters of this lake are comparatively calm, afford- ing safe navigation. But late in the year, and during the winter and early spring months, the navigation of this and the other great lakes is very dangerous. Waukbgan, Lake Co., 111., 36 miles north of Chicago, is handsomely situated on elevated ground, gradually rising to 50 or 60 feet above the water. Here are two piers, a light-house, several large storehouses, and a neat and thriving town containing about 5,000 inhabitants, six churches, a bank, several well-kept hotels, thirty stores, and two steam-flouring mills. Kenosha, Wis., 52 miles from Chicago, is elevated 30 or 40 feet above the lake. Here are a small harbor, a light-house, storeliouses, mills, etc. The town has a population of about 6,000 inhabitants, surrounded by a fine back country. Here is a good hotel, a bank, several churches, and a number of stores and manufactur- ing establishments doing a large amount of business. The Kenosha and Rockford Railroad, 73 miles, connects at the latter place with a railroad running to Madison, the capital of the State, and also to the Mississippi River. The City of Racinh, Wis., 62 miles from Chicago and /"i miles south of Milwaukee, is built ou »ii elevation some forty or lifty feet above tiie surface of the lake. It is a beautiful and flourishing place. Here are a light-house, piers, storehouses, etc., situated near the water, while the city contains some tine public buildingH and private residences. The population iH about 10,000, and ia rapidly increasing. Racine is the second city in the State in commerce and population, and possessea a tine harbor. Here are located the county buildings, fourteen churches, seve- ral hotels. Congress Hall being the largest; elevators, warehouses, and numerous ptores of different kinds. The Racine and Mississippi Railroad ex- tends from this place to the Mississippi River at Savanna, 142 miles. The Chica- go and Milwaukee Railroad also runa through the town, near the Lake Shore. UILWAUKSC HABBOB. Miliraukee, *' Tub Cream City," 86 miles from Chicago, by railroad and steamboat route, is handsomely situated on rising ground on botli sides of the Mil- waukee River, at its entrance into Lake Michigan. In front of the city is a bay or indentation of the lake, affording a good harbor, except in strong easterly gales. The harbor is now being improved, and will doubtless be rendered "ocure at all times of the season. The river affords an ox- tensive water-power, capable of giving motion to macliinery of almost any re- quired ainount. The city is built upon ■t Iff 86 KiJ. .at; TRIP THROUGH THE LAKES. ^«.■i 1 111 i beautifhl slopes, descending toward the river and lake. It has a United States Custom House and Post-Office building; a court house, city hall, a United States land-office, the University Institute, a college for females, three academies, three orphan asylums, forty-five churches, sev- eral well-kept hotels, the Newhall House and the Walker House being the most frequented; seven banks, six insurance companies, a Chamber of Commerce, ele- vators, extensive ranges of 'Stores, and several large manufacturing establish- ments. The city is lighted with gas, and well supplied with good water. Its ex- ports of lumber, agricultural produce, etc. are immense, giving profitable employment to a large number of steamers and other lake craft, running to difierent ports on the Upper Lakes, Detroit, Buffalo, etc. The growth of this city has been astou- isbing ; twenty years since its site was a wilderness; now it contains over 60,000 inhabitants, and of a class inferior to no section of the Union for intelligence, so- briety, and mdustry. The future of Milwaukee it is hard to predict; here are centring numerous rail- roads finished and in course of construc- tion, extending south to Chicago, west to the Mississippi River, and north to Lake Superior, which, in connection with the Detroit and Milwaukee Railroad, termin- ating at Grand Haven, 85 miles distant by water, and the lines of steamers running to this port, will altogetlier give an im- petus to this favored city, blessed with a good climate and soil, which the future alone can reveal. During the past few years an unusual number of fine buildings have been erected, and the commerce of the port has amount- ed to $60, 000, 000. The bay of Milwaukee offers the best advantages for the con- struction of a harbor of refuge of any point on Lake Michigan. The city has ex- pended over $100,000 iu the construction of a harbor; this needs extension and completion, which will no doubt be effected. The approach to Milwaukee harbor by water is very imposing, lying between two headlands covered with rich foliage, and dotted with residences indicating comfort and refinement not to be exceed- ed on the banks of the Hudson or any other body of water in the land. This city, no doubt, is destined to become the favored residence of opulent families, who are fond of congregating in favored localities. The Granaries of Minkesota and Wisconsin. — ^The La Crosse Democrat speaks as follows of the great strides of agriculture in a region which ten years ago was a wilderness. It says: " We begin to think that the granaries of Minnesota and Northwestern Wiscon- sin will never give out; there is no end to the amount, judgibg from the heavy loads the steamers continually land at the depot of the La Crosse and Milwaukee Railroad. Where does it all come from? is the frequent inquiry of people. We can hardly tell. It seems impossible that there can be much more left, yet steam- boat men tell us that the grain is not near all hauled to the shipping points on the river. What will this country be ten years hence, at this rate? Imagine the amount of transportation that will be- come necessary to carry the produce of the upper country to market. It is hard to state what will be the amount of ship- ments of grain this season (1863), but it will be well into the millions." Railroads running prom Milwaukee. Detroit and Milwaukee (Grand Haven to Detroit, 189 miles), connecting with steamers on Lake Michigan. La Crosse and Milwaukee, 200 miles, connecting with steamers on the Upper Mississippi. •; FROM CHICAGO TO MACKINAC AND SAUT 8TE. MARIK. 87 Milwaukee and, Prairie du Chien, 192 miles, connecting with steamers on the Misaissippi River. Milwaukee and Horicon^ 93 miles. ''- Milwaukee and Western^ 11 miles. Milwaukee and Chicago, 85 miles; also, the Pviver and Lake Shore City Railway, running from the entrance of the harbor to different parts of the city. Port Washington, Ozaukee Co., Wis., 25 miles north of Milwaukee, is a flour- ishing place, and capital of the county. The village contains, besides the public buildings, several churches and hotels, twelve stores, three mills, an iron found- ry, two breweries, and other manufac- tories. The population is about 2,500. Here is a good steamboat landing, from which large quantities of produce are an- nually shipped to Chicago and other lake ports. Sheboygan, Wis., 50 miles north of Milwaukee and 130 miles from Chicago, is a thriving place, containing about 6,000 inhabitants. Here are seven churches, several public-houses and stores, together with a light-house and piers ; the harbor being improved by government works. Large quantities of lumber and agricul- tural products are shipped from this port. The country in the interior is fast set- tling with agriculturists, the soil and cli- mate being good. A railroad nearly com- pleted runs from this place to Fond du Lao, 42 miles west, lying at the head of Lake Winnebago. Manitouwoc, Wis., (TO miles north of Milwaukee and 33 miles east from Green Bay, is an important shipping port. It contains about 2,500 inhabitants; five churches, several public-houses, twelve stores, besides several storehouses ; three steam saw-mills, two ship-yards, light- house, and pier. Large quantities of lum- ber are annually shipped from this port. The harbor is being improved so as to af- ford a refuge for vessels during stormy weather. " Manitouwoc is the most northern of the harbors of Lake Michigan improved by the United States government. It de- rives additional importance from the fact that, when completed, it will afford the first point of refuge from storms for ship- ping bound from any of the other great lakes to this, or to the most southern ports of Lake Michigan." Two Rivers, Wis., seven miles north from Manitouwoc, is a new and thriving place at the entrance of the conjoined streams (from which the place takes its name) into Lake Michigan. Two piers are here erected, one on each side of the river; also a ship-yard, an extensive leather manufacturing company, chair and pail factory, and three steam saw-mills. The village contains about 2,000 inhabi- tants. Kewaunbb, Wis., 25 miles north of Two Rivers and 102 miles from Milwaukee, is a small shipping town, where are situated several saw-mills and lumber establish- ments. Green Bay is situated about 25 miles due west from this place. "'^ ,'; Ahnebpee, 12 miles north of Kewaunee, is a lumbering village, situated at the mouth of Ahneepee, containing about 1,000 inhabitants. The back country here assumes a wild appearance, the forest trees being mostly pine and hemlock. Gibraltar, or Bailey's Harbor, is a good natural port of refuge for sailing craft when overtaken by storms. Here is a settlement of some 400 or 500 inhabi- tants, mostly being engaged in fishing and lumbering. Port des Morts or Death's Door, th% entrance to Green Bay, is passed 20 miles north of Bailey's Harbor, DetrQ/i J/slandi lying to the northward. Pottowatomeb, or Wa^h^nqton Isl- and, is a fine body of land attached to the State of Michigan ; alsOj Rock Islandjj situated a shcprt. ^i,stance to the north* (See rouiQ (fy Qreen Bay^ on a more beneficial influence than on .his Island. In other parts of this country and in Europe, the places of Resort are b autiful, indeed; but a certain op- pressiv ness there at times pervades the L IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) i.O I.I 2.5 1.8 i.25 1.4 iL ^ 6" — ► Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WES1 MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) S72-4S03 X( y. J ^.•^ # 62 .awaisr .SDI TRIP THROUGH THE LAKES, ftii.'tri'.iri'^ trv-\ ,'***?*' air, that ft person even with the best health in the world, feels a lassitude creep- isg through his frame. Here, we seldom, if ever, experience such a feeling from this cause. For the western breeze even in the hottest days passing over this island, keeps'theair cool, and, especially if proper exercise be taken by walking or riding, cue feels a bracing up, a certain buoyancy of spirits that is truly astonishing. Ye inhabitants of warm latitudes, who pant in cities for a breath of cool air, fly to this isle for comfort. Ye invalid, this is the place in which to renovate your shattered constitution. The lovers of beautiful sceaery or the curious in nature, and the artist, whose magic pencil de- lights to trace nature's lineaments, need not sigh for the suniy clime of Italy for subjects on which to feed the taste and imagination. This island is intersected by fine car- riage roads, shaded here and there by a young growth of beech, maple, and other trees. On the highest part of it, about 300 feet, are the ruins of Old Fort Holmes. From this point of elevation, the scenery around is extensive and beautiful. In sight, are some localities connected with " the tales of the times of old," both of the sav- age and the civilized. Looking westward- ly, and at the distance of about four miles across an arm of Lake Huron, is Point St. Ignace, which is the southernmost point of land, of the greater portion of the Up- per Peninsula. Immediately south of it are the •' Straits of Mackinac," which sep- arating the Northern and Southern Penin- sulas from each other, are about four miles wide. On the south shore, may still be seen traces of Old Fort Mackinac, which is well known in history as having been destroyed by Indians, in 1763, at the in- stigation of Pontiac, an Indian Chief. Turning our gaze southeastwardly, we see the picturesque '* Round Island," as it were at our feet. And further on, is ••Bois-Blano Island," stretching; away with its winding shores, far into Laire Huron. Look to the east, and there stands thij inland sea, apparently " bound- less and deep, "and "pure as th' expanseof heaven." Directly north from our place of observation, are the "Islands of St. Martin;" while beyond them in the Bay, are two large rivers — the Pine, and Carp Rivers. And lastly, casting our eyes to- wards the northwest, we see on the main land the two "Sitting Rabbits;" being iwo singular looking hills or rocks, and so called by the Indians from some resem- blance at a distance to rabbits in a sitting posture. As a whole, this scenery pre- sents, hills, points of land jutting into the lake, and "straits," bays, and islands. Here, the lake contracts itself into narrow channels, or straits, wliich at times are whitened by numerous sails of commerce; and there, it spreads itself away as far as the eye can reach. And, while contem- plating this scene, perhaps a dark column of smoke, like the Genii in the Arabian Tales, may be seen rising slowly out of the bosom of Lake Huron, announcing the approach of the Genii of modern days, the Steamboat! Let uo descend to the shore. It is evening! The sun, with all his glory has disappeared in tho west ; but the moon sits in turn the arbitress of heaven. And now — " How Bweet the moonlight sleeps upon this bank; Here will we sit, and let the sounds of music Creep in our cars; soft stillness and the nigtit, Becomes the touches of sweet harmony .** Such a moonlight night I once enjoyed. The hum of day-life had gradually subsid- ed, and there was naught to disturb tho stillness of the hour, save the occasional laughter of those who lingered out in the open air. In the direction of the moon, and on the Lake before me, there was a broad road of light trembling upon itn bosom. A few moments more, two small boats with sails up to catch the gentle breeze, were seen passing and re-psMing t^,. €>'•— TTi'*'^'' .■»-'%» ' ^U^'^ the entrance. Potagannia' sing Bay, dotted with nu- merous small island8,mo8t- ly belonging to the United States, is seen lying to the eastward, communicating ^ with the North Chan- - nel. Mud Lake, & miles St. Mary*! River. By a careful examina- tion of the Government Charts of the Straits of Mackinac and River Ste. Marie, published in 1 857, it appears thai the Point Delbu.' Light-Bouse is situated in Ab° 57' N. Lat., being 36 miles to the eastward of Fort Mackinac. The width of the De Tour passage is about one mile, with a depth of water of 100 feet and upwards, although but 50 feet is found off the light, as you run into Lake Huron. Drummond Island, attached to the United States, lies on the east, while the main shore of Michigan lies to the west of the entrance. Pipe Island, 4 miles, is first passed on ascending the stream, and then Lime Island, 6 miles further. 3L JosepKa Island, with its old fortf attached to Canada, lies 8 miles from I further, is next entered, having an exp panse of about 4 miles in width, when Saihr^s Encampment Island is reached, being 20 miles from Lake Huron. The head of St. Joseph's and part of Sugar Island are reached 26 miles northward from the DeTour, where diverges tho Canadian or North Channel, running into the Geoigian Bay; this channel is fol- lowed by the Canadian steamers. The ^•ebiah Kapids are next passed, and lAike George entered, 6 miles further, being 32 miles from Lake Huron. This lake or ex- pansion of tlie river is 9 miles in length and 4 miles broad, affording 12 feet of water over the shoals and terminating at ChurclCs Landing, lying opposite Squir- rel Inland, attached to Canada. Garden River Settlement, 3 miles, is an Indian town on the Canada side. lAtUe Lakt George is passed and Point Aux Pim reached, 3 miles fUrther. From Little I. ■ ■•! 06 «^ritAf« .T« . TRIP THROUGH THE LAKIES. 'W:i mm^' .<,* \ Lake George to the Saut Ste. Marie^ pas- sing nround the head of Sugar iBland, is 8 miles further, being 55 miles from Lake Iluron. The Rapids, or Ship Canal, ex- tend for about une mile, overcoming a fall of 20 feet, when a beautiful stretch of the river is next passed and Waiska Bay entered, G miles above the rapids ; making the St. Mary's River 62 miles in length. The channel forming the boundary lino between Canada and the United States is followed by the ascending steamer from . the lower end of St. Joseph's Island to Lcke Superic;-, while a more direct pas- sage is afforded for vessels of light draught through Hay Lake, lying west of Sugar Island and entering Mud Lake. Nothing can be more charming than a trip over these waters, wh«n sailing to or firom the Straits of Mackinac, thus having in view rich and varied lake and river sceneiy, 'once thb exclusive and favored abode of the red man of the forest, now fast pass- ing away befbre the march Df civilization. ISaut Ste. marie,* capital of Chip- pewa Co., Aiich., is advantageously situated \m St. Mary's River, or Strait, 360 miles N.N.W. of Detroit, and 15 miles from the foot of Lake Superior, in N. lat. 46*=* 31'. The Rapids at this place, giving the name to the settlements on both sides of the river, have a descent of 20 feet within the distance of a mile, and form the natural liniit of navigation. The Ship Canal, how- ever, which has recently been constructed on the American side, obviates this diflB- culty. Steamers of a large class now pass through the locks into Lake Superior, ,4.> i:v, • Settled in 1668, by the French ;f: greatly facilitating trade and commerce. The village on the imerican side is pleas- antly situated near the foot of the rapids, and contains a court-house and jail; a Presbyterian, a Methodist, and a Roman Catholic church; 2 hotels, and 15 or 20 stores and storehouses, besides a few manufacturing establishments, aud about 1,200 inhabitants. Many of the inhabi- tants and Indians in the vicinity are en- gaged in the fur trade and fisheries, the latter being an important and profitable occupation. Summer visitors flock to this place and the Lake Superior country for health and pleasure. The Chippewa House, a well kept hotel on the American side, and one on the Canadian side of the rivei*, both afford good accommodations. Fort Bbadt is an old and important United Sti^tes military post contiguous to this frontier village, where are barracks for a full garrison of troops. It commands the St. Mary's River and the approach to the mouth of the canal. Saut Ste. Marie, C. W., is a scattered settlement, where is located a part of the Hudson Bay Company. Here is a steam- boat landing, a hotel, and two or three stores, including the Hudson Bay Com- pany's; and it has from 600 to 600 in- habitants. Indians of the Chippewa tribe reside in the vicinitj in considerable num- bers, they having the exclusive right to take fish in the waters contiguous to tlio rapids. They also employ themselves in running the rapids in their frail canoes, when desired by citizens or strangers — this being one of the most exhilarating en- joyments for those fosd of aquatic sports. {Su Engraving.) 'Z^:"^ ;a^ .Sk'if 4, ■i .u:i'ii t-'/: .1', ■:vf\'4^'\. :^« 1 ' commerce, ide is pleas- 'tlie rapids, and jail; a d a Roman d 15 or 20 des a few and about the iuhabi- lity are en- sheriea, the i profitable Jock to this country for oewa ffotise, jrican side, f the river, ns. [ important ntiguous to e barracks commands tpproach to a scattered part of the is a steam- or three Bay Cora- to 600 in- pewa tribe rable num- e right to ous to the mselves in ail canoes, itrangers — arating en- itic sports. -■M .} I > ■■ \ ■4 1 9 1 , 1 1 1', i i ^•1 '' '■■'«.'i-'. ■*;■'?'■ Fi: '^^:k: ;■ ti ■ '• . .-■>•< ■1 ' • ■ i,jM ■fc ■ 1/ ! . '^f^ '-ay V^^v '' :;h ■ R • H;\h i'f- m 1 i m /"b ■■ !;;• I ,' ' •■■ 1 ^ i^H'' Tj;!.' •!.' II u. ■< \\ "^ ' TRIP THROUGH THE LAKES. vTj-a^ •I • iti- St. mary^s Falls Sbip Canal. This Canal, which connects the naviga- tion of Lake Superior witli the Lower Lakes, is one mile in length, and cost about one million dollars. It was bunt in the years 1 853, '6^ *55, by the Saint Maiy's Falls Ship Canal Com- pany, under a contract with commission- ers appointed by the atithorities of tlie State of Michigan to secure the building of the canaL A grant of 750.000 acres of the public land had previously been made by Con- gress to the State of Michigan, to aid in the construction of this important work. This grant of 750,060 acres was given to the parties contracting for the building of the canal, provided the work should be completed within two years from the date of ttte contract. The work was commenced in tlie spring of 1853, and completed within 'the time spt'citied in the contract {two years I). This result was accomplished under many disadvantages, during a very sickly season, and when great difficulty was ex- perienced in obtaining laborers ; but the luiremittiug vigor of those who had the charge of the work secured its completion in the most substantial, permanent, and acceptable manner. During a great portion of the time there were from 1,200 to 1,G00 men employed upon the work, exclusive of the force at the different quarries where the stone was cut and prepared for the locks, beside a large force employed in necessary agen- cies, getting timber, etc. The stones for the locks were cut at Anderden, Canada (near Maiden), and at Marblehead, near Sandusky, in Ohio. Tliese were sent in vessels to the work, some twenty-five different sailing vessels being employed in this business. On the completion of the canal in June, 1855, the governor of the State, the State officers, and the Canal Commissioners pro- 7 ceeded to Saut Ste. Marie for the purpose of inspecting the work. It was accepted, and thereupon, in accordance with the terms of the contract, tJio State author- ities released to the Canal Company and issued patents for the 750,000 acres of land. This was all tlie remuneration the company received lor the work. The lands were selected during the building of the canal, by agents ap- pointed by the governor of Michigan. Of the 750,000 acres, 39,000 acres were selected in the iron region of Lake Su- perior, 147,000 acres in the copper region, and the balance, 564,000 acres, in the Lower Peninsula. The following figures wQl give some idea of the magnitude oi this work : Lengtli of canal, 5,543 feet, — > 1 mile 304 feet. Width at top, 115 feet — at water-line^ 100 feet — at bottom, 04 feot. The deptli of the canal is 12 feet A slope wall on the sides of the canal ia 4,000 feot in length. There are two locks, each 350 feet in length. Width of locks, 70 feet at top— 61 J feci at bottom. The walls are 25 feet high— 10 feet thick at bottom. Lift of upper lock, 8 feet — lower do., 10 feet; total lockage, 18 feet. Lower wharf, 180 feet long; 20 feet wide. Upper wharf, 830 feet long; from 16 to 30 feet wide. There are 3 pairs of folding gates, each 40 feet wide. Upper gate, 17 feet high — ^lower gate, 24 feet 6 inclies high. There are also upper and lower caisson gates, used for shutting off the water from the CruaL The amount of l-imbor, timber, and iron used in the building of the piers and gates is enormous. There were 103,437 lbs. of wrought iron used in the gates, and 38,000 lbs. cast iron. i. ^^; ;i E ■:■: ■i^ 98 FROM OHIOAOO TO MAOXIirAO AHO SAUT STX MARIS. About 8,000 feet of ottk timber, etc. Tho tolls on the c«nal are collected bj the State — are merely nominal — and 00I7 intended to defray the necessary expenses of repairs. Thb St. Mart's Falls Ship Oajtal, Michigan, now forms a navigable oom- munication between Lake Superior and Huron, passing through the St. Mary's BiTer for a distance of about 60 miles. The first Steamer which passed through the locks was the Illinois, 927 tons, commanded by John Wilson, on her trip through to the upper ports on Lake Su- perior, June 18, 1866. The Illinois was fcdlowed by the Steamer Baltimore, 514 tons; Samuel Ward, 434 tons; and the North Star, 1,100 tons, during the month of June of the same year. .»*: *■■!, Opbhing and Closoto 07 Nayioahon, from 186& to 1863, Indushre. Data First Yeaie]. June 18, 1866. Illinois, VST toat. May 4, 1866 Msnbsttui, Msjr 9, 1857 North Stu; April 16, 186R Iron City, May 8, 1860 1.ady Elgfo, May 11, 1860 Fountain City, May 8,1861 Michigan, 648 April 8T, 1868. „ . . . .City of Cleveland, 788 April 281. 1868 Mineral Bock. 666 1,100 600 1,088 890 648 Dais. Laat YesseL Not, 28, 1866 Planet, 1,164 tona Not. 28, 1866 Gen. Taylor, 468 ** Not. 80, J857 Miaeral Sock. 666 ** Not. 20, 1868 Lady Elgla, 1,088 '' Not. 88, 1860 Forester, 884 ** Not. 88, 1860 Mont«omery, 8T9 ** Not. 28, 1861 Oea Taylor, 468 ** Not. 87, 1802 Mineral Sock, 666 ** Not. 90,1868 Meutor, 728 '" May 8, 1864 CleTeland, ' 074 Average season of navigation, 6^ months. * Bak.qf JbU, 6 cents for every registered ton, for every description of vessel. fif:;tij;*?,£ 4i.ii*,r^jj'- TABLE OF BISTAHCES From Toronto to €ollingw<»od and Saut Ste« Marie. Tobonto to Ck)LLiNOWOOD {BaOrood Boute\ 94 miles. Steamboat Routb. (GoOingwood to Sant Ste. Marie, Mich., passing through OeOTi^aa Bay and North ChanneL) Ports, eta Miles. Ports, eta Miles. GoLLiNOwooD. Saut Stb. Maris Cape Rich 30 Sug^ Island. 4 Cabot's Head 80 Garden River Set. 10 Lonely Island.... ., 100 OhurcK 8 Landing. , 14 CapeSmyth 126 Lake George 20 Ske'ba-wa-ndh-ning , . . 146 Nebish Rapids 24 Man-i-tou-wah-ning (26 m.) St. Joseph Island 25 Little Current, } ^hq The Narrows 35 Great Manitoulin Is. J Campement D'Ours Is 38 Clapp^rjon Island 190 Bruce Mines , 50 FROM TORONTO TO COLLINGWOOD AND 8AUT 8TE. MAKIB. 99 led through 927 tonB, on her trip n Lake Su- Qlinois was timore, 514 ts; and the ; the month ihre. "Xir 1,164 tona 686 »* >84 ** 8T» *• 4M "^ I. 666 ** j'i-*-^.'. yenMl. ,^^:-^-'.-. Marie. tnd Korth Miles. 4 10 14 >. 20 24 1 25 '^^ 38 , 60 Ports, etc • ^ Miles. Barrie Island 220 Cockburn Island. . . . ; 266 Drummond's Island, Mich 270 Bruct Minw, C. W. 290 St. Joseph Island 296 Tampement D'Ours Is 302 The Narrows 306 Ports, etc. Mi' s Dniinniond's Island, Mich 70 Cockburn IsUnd, 0. W 86 Barrie Island 120 Clappertou Island 150 LidU Current ) ^i^q Great Manitoulin Is. J Man-i-tou-wah-ning (25 m.) Sugar Island, Mich 316 She-ba-wa-nah-ning 196 Nebish Rapids 316 Cape Smyth 216 Lake George 320 Loneir Island 240 Churches Landing 326 Cabot's Head 260 CapeRich 310 COLUNOWOOD 340 \: (inn Note.— Landings in iifoftc. , , .^i ' ' ***"* Garden River Set 330 Saut Stk. Marib 340 Sr£AMBOAT Fare, $8 50. J, Including meals. Usual Time, 36 hoUrs. }IS €olllngl¥OOd, 94 miles north from Toronto, is most advantageously situated near the head of Nottawassaga Bay, an indentation of Georgian Bay. The town, although commenced in 1854, at the time of the completion of the Ontario, Sirocoe, and Huron Railroad, now contains (1861) about 2,000 inhabitants, and is rapidly in- creasing. The surprising giowth is main- ly owing to its being the northern termi- nus cff the railway which connects the Georgian Bay with Lake Ontario at Toronto. Great numbers of travellers and emij^rants are at this point transferred to steamorsor propellers, bound for Mackinac, Green Bay, Chicago, and the Great West, as well as to the Saut Ste. Marie and Lake Superior. Here are a long pier, 800 feet in length ; a breakwater, and light-house ; several large stores and storehouses; four hotels, and two or three churches in the course of erection. * The steamers leaving Collingwood for Mackinac and Chicago, running ulong the west shore of Lake Michigan, are of a large class, affording good accommodations for travellers. Steamers run every day to .>;r ' 1 ■;«;:•■ Owen*s Sound, 50 miles distant; and weekly to Bruce Mines, the Saut Ste. Ma- rie, and mto Lake Superior, affording ft delightful steamboat excursion. Immense quantities of lish are taken in the waters of Nottawassaga Bay, being principally carried to the Toronto market. The whole north shore of the Georgian Bay abounds in white flsli, salmon, tiiout, maskalonge, and other lish of fine quality, affording profitable employment to the Canadians and Indians. " Some idea of the value and extent of the fishing operations promiscuously pur- sued in Nottawassaga Bay may be formed from the knowledge that the average daily take exceeds one thousand fish, weighing from. forty pounds down to one pound. At this rate, that of the sea.son would not fall short of £40,000. At the mouth of the Nottawassaga River the white fish aro netted in perfect shoala throughout the spawning season. Most of vhe larger kind of trout spawn about the islands upon beds of calcareous rock, over which a shifting drift of sand or gravel passes by the action of the waves, Hi [% HB \tP too ^H^ TRIP THROUGH THK LARKS. rA.:r where the water is shallow; and from being exposed to the sun, the temperature of the lake is warmw at these localities than elsewhere. Thither the fishermen resort, and net the fish, vapid and placid as they are, in fabulous amounts." GEOBGXAN BAT. ■;fei V"'hO ',; > The deeply romantic character of this pure and lovely body oi' water irt almost unknown to the American publio -lying as it does to the northeast of Lake Huron, being entirely within the confines of Oanada. The northeast shore is the most romantic and highly interesting, from the fact of tiiere being innumerable islands and islets along the coast, greatly exceed- ing in number the " Thousand Islands" of the St. Lawrence. From Penetanguishene, northeast to She-ba-wa-nah-ning, where commences the picturesque body of water known as the North Cfiannd, there is one continued suc- cession of enchanting scenery. Here the wild fowl, fur-bearing game, and the finny tribe disport in perfect freedom, being as yet far removed from the busy haunts of civilization. Georgian Bay is nearly as large as Lake Ontario, while the North Channel, connect- ing with St, Mary's River on the west, may be said to be as large as Long Island Sound, dotted with a large number of love- ly islands, while to the south lies the romantic island of the Great Manitoulin, and on the north rises La Cloche Mountain — ^altogetlier forming the most grand and romantic scenery. EOUTE FBOK COLLIKQWOOD, C. W., TO THE SAUT STE. THBOUOH aSOBGIAN BAT AND NOBm CHANNEL. ^. v' ^■d. ;;&! This is a new and highly interesting steamboat excursion, brouglit into notice oy the completion of the Ontario^ Simcoe, and Huron Railroad^ extending from Toronto to Oollingwood, at the southern extremity of Georgian Bay. NoTTAWASSAGA Bay, the southem termi- nation of Georgian Bay, is a large expanse of water bounded by Cape Rich on the west, and Christian Island on the east, each being distant about 30 miles from Colling- wood. At the south end of the bay lies a small group of islands called the Hen and Chickens. -^; f.]^ Christian Island, lying about 25 miles from Penetanguishene, and 25 miles north- east of Cape Rich, is a large and fertile island, which was early settled by the Jesuits. There are several others passed north of Christian Island, of great beauty, while still farther northwest are encoun- tered innumerable islands and islets, form- ing labyrinths, and secluded passages and coves as yot almost unknown to tlie white man, extending westward for upward of on( hundred miles. Penetanouishenb, C. W., 50 miles north of Collingwood by steamboat route, situated on a lovely and secure bay, is an old md very important settlement, com- pri .ig an Episcopal and Roman Catholic church, two hotels, a custom-house, severa ROrTK FROM COLMNOWOOD TO BAUT 8TB MARIl. 101 Rtorcs and storehouRes. and has about 500 inhabitants. In the immediate vicinity ftre a naval and military depot and barrackn, established by the liritiHh governineiit. The natural beauties of the bay and har- bor, combined with the picturesque scenery of the Bhorcs, make up a picture of rare beauty. Hero may be seen the native Indian, the half-breed, and the C.inaiian Voyageur, with the i'ull'blooded Kn^^li.shraaE. or Scotchman, forming one couimunity. This place, being near tho mouth of the River ^vern, and contiguoua to, the numberless islands of Georgian 6h/, is no doubt destined to become a favorite resort for the angler and sports- min, as well as ior the invalid and seeker of pleasure. On leaving OoUingwood for Bruce Mines and the Saut Ste. Marie, the steamer usually runs direct across Georgian Bay to I«onely Island, passing Cabot's Head to the right, and the passage leading into the broad waters of Lake Huron, which is the route pursued by the steamers in the voyage to Mackinac, Green Bay, and Chicago. During the summer months the trip from OoUingwood to Mackinac and Chicagc affords a delightful excursion. Owzn's Sound, or Sydenham, 50 miles west of OoUingwood, although off the direct routo to the Saut Ste. Marie, is weU worthy of a passing notice. Here is a thriving settlement, surrounded by a fertile section of country, and containing about 2,500 inhabitants. A steamer runs daily from OoUingwood to this place, which will, no doubt, soon bo reached by Tiilroad. , Lonely Island, situated about 100 miles west of OoUingwood and 20 miles east of tho Great Manitoulin Islands, is a large body of land mostly covered with a dense forest, and uninhabited, except by a few fishermen, who resort here at certain seasons of the year for the purpose of taking fish of different kinds. The steam- er usuaUy passes this island on its north side, itoering for Cape Smyth, a boM promontory jutting out from tho Great Manitoulin, and distant from Lonely Island about 25 mites. Squaw Island and Papoose Island are seen on the northeast, while farther inland are the Fox Islands, being the oom- monoomon'. on the west of tho innumera- ble islands which abound along the north shore of Georgian Bay. La Cloche Mountains, rising about 2,000 feet above the sea, are next seen in the distance, toward the north ; these, com- bined with the wUd scenery of the islaiKlt and headlands, form a grand pauoramio view, enjoyed from the deck of the passing steamer. Smyth's Bay is passed on the west, some eiglu or ten miles distant. At the head of this bay, on the great Manitoulin Island, are situated a village of Indians, and a Jesuit's mission, called We-qua-me- kong. Thest aborigines are noted for their industry, raising wheat, corn, oats, and potatoes in large quantities. This part of tiie island is very fertUe, and the climate is healthy. , .. r ii.jt. ', . She-ba-wa-nah-nino, signifying, in the Indian dialect, " litre is a Chanuel,^^ is a most charming spot, 40 miles distant from Lonely Island, hemmed in by mountains on the north and a high rocky island on the south. It is situated on the i: h side of a narrow channel, about halt a mile in length, which has a great depth of water. Here are a convenient steamboat landing, a church, a store, and some tea or twelve dwellings, inhabited hy Cana- dians and half-breeds. Indians assemble here often in considerable numbers, to seU their fish and furs, prcdenting with their canoes and dogs a very grotesque appear- ance. One resident at this landing usual- ly attracts much attention — a noble dog, of the color of cream. No sooner does the steamer's beU ring, than this anunal rushes to the wharf, sometimes assisting to secure tlie rope that is thrown ashore ; i • 102 .MTjiAr ;r TRIP THROUGH THE LAKES. illil tifio next move he makes is to board the vessel, as though he were a custom-house officer ; but on one occasion, in his eager- ness to get into the kitchen, he fell over- board ; nothing daunted, he swam to the shore, and then again bocrding the vessel, succeeded in his desire to fill his stomach, showing the instinct fering from that which is yielded by other mines of that peninsula. *' Ten years i^ this mine was opened, and large sums expended for machinery, which proved useless, but it is now un- der new raanagemenv, and promises to yield profitably. Twelve shafts have been opened, one of which has been carried down some 330 feet. Some 200 or 300 men are employed, all from the European mines. Some of the ores are very beauti- ful to the eye, resembling fine gold. After being taken out of the shaft, they are taken upon a rail-track to the crushing- house, where they are passed between large iron rollers, and sifted till only a fine powder remains ; from thence to the 'J'fiTffer- works,' where they are shaken in water till much of the earthy matter is washed away, after which it is piled in the yard ready for shipment, having more the appearance of mud than of copper. It ia now : ostly shipped to Swansea, in Tales, for smelting. Two years since, 1,600 tons were shipped to Baltimore And Buffalo to be smelted." ' ' ' ** On resuming the voyage alter leaving" Bruce Mines, the steamer runs along St. Joseph Island through n beautiful sheet of water, in which are embosomed some few islands near the main shore. Campbment D'Oubs is an island passed on the left, lying contiguous to St Joseph Island. Here are encountered several small rocky islands, forming an intricate channel called tbe " Narrovtay On some of the islands in this group are found cop- per ore, and beautiful specimens of raoss. The forest-trees, however, are of a dwarf- ish growth, owing, no doubt, to the scant- iness of soil on these rocky islands. About 10 miles west of the " Narrows,'* (he main channel of the St Mary's Riv- er is reached, forming the boundM'y be- tween the United States and Canada. A rocky island lies on the Canadian side, which is reserved for government pur- poses, as it commands the main or ship channeL Sugar Island is now reached, which belongs to the United St&'-tes, and the steamers run a further distance of 26 miles, when the landing at the Saut Ste. Ma- rie is reached, there being settlements on both sides of the river. The British boats usually land on the north aide, while the American boats make a landing on the south side of the river, near the mouth cX the ship canaL ' --i-fiy. •' To the Editor of the Toronto Globe. " SiE : As you have on all occasions taken a prominent part in advocating the opening ..p of the Hudson's Bay Territory and the North Shore of Lake Superior, I send you a log journal of the first cruise of the Steamer Jiesciuif Capta.a Jambs Diof^ from CoUingwood to Port William. On this trip, she fairly maintained hor previous reputation ; for in a heavy gale of wind on the beam for many hours, between Mich- ipicohen IsUmd and Fort W'Uiam, she made her 10^ miles per hour, and, during the gale, was steady, and free from any ■i I li )!? 1 '!■ '!*'■'.! 104 • W^'f ' >^ "^ YBIP THROUGH THE LAFXS. -IV '(r-^T unpleasant motion. We left Collmgwood ftt lO.SO A. Iff., on the 12th July, 1858^ Captain Kennedy in charge of the mails, for Red River. We passed Cabot's Head at 6.30 p. IL; Cove Island light, at 9 p. iff. (merely a lantern on the top of the tower, Tis'Me about two miles oii a clever night) ; paissed between the middle and western Duck Islands at 4 a.m., at easy steam, so as to enter the Missisaga Straits in day- Ught ; at 11.20 a. m., ran alongside the \^iarf at Bruce Mines; landed mails, and wooded. Under the kind supervision of l£r. Davidson we inspected the process of extracting coppw ore from the bowels of the earth. We found that it contained 4 per cent, at the mouth of the pit, and 25 per cent barrelled up in the form of paste. Sometime ago^ the Montreal Mining Com- pany (owning the Bruce Mines), leased half their location to the Wellington Min- ing Company. There are, in consequence, within one mile, separated by a small island^ two establishments, forming one oonsiderable tov/n. j\rrivei at Saut Ste. Marie, Pirn's wiiarf (British side), at 1 p. H. ; landed mails, and ran over to the American side for oonla. At 6 a. m., on the 14th, entered the ship-canal, paying siz cents per ton lockage dues. Mr. Simp- son, of the Hudson's Bay Company, very politely sent with us the Captain of their aohooner to pilot us through to Pine Point, where we engaged his son-in-law, Alex. Clark, as pilot. "Passed White Fish Point, Lake Su- perior, at 10 o'clock A. M., Carioou Island at 4.30 o'clock p. it. This island was ^o- callod, from the circumstance of Captain McHargo, who accompanied Bayfield in hia survey, having on one occasion killed 60 Caribous on it. At 6 p. m., we were close to ' Rescue' Harbor, Islaud of Mi- ohipicoten. The harbor at Michipicoten is described by the pilot, who has been 15 Years on the lake, as superb, and is so laid down by Bayfield. The island is llKiiUt 16 miles by 6^ covered with sprace, fir, birch, ash and maple, the latter grow- ing on elevated ground. There are sever- ai lakes upon it, full of speckled trou^ ; the bay is full of salmon, trout, and white fish. A schooner was loaded here last season in a very short time with fish in and about the harbor; and the climate is said by old voyageurs to be far more pleasant during the winter than at the Saut and other places farther south, '^ingof a drier nature* Between the island and the main land is the most sheltered passage, with two ex- cellent harbors on each side, one at Ot- ters' Creek and the other ai MiehTpicoten River and harbor. This latter place is an important port of the Hudson's Bay Company, distant from Moose Fort, Hud- son's Bay, 300 miles, which has been pass- ed over in canoes in six days. Michipi- coten Island is said to contain great min- eral deposit — silver, copper, and lead ; the Quebec Mining Oompany have a location here. '*" At daybreak on Thursday we passed Slate Island, and shortly after encountered a dense fog and lay to till 1 p. u. It was two o'clock before we saw land. I^ssect close to Thunder Cape, a perpendicular rock rising fi^m the water's edge 1,350 feet. Anchored at Fort William, situ- ated at the mouth of Kaministoguoi River at 7 p. M., on Thursday 15 th, and landed the mail Owing to a bar and shoal at the month of the 'iver, we anchored about a mile from the Fort, early on Friday the IGth. Some of the party went up the river in canoes to the Jesuit Mission, about three.miks, where they were kindly re- ceived by the priest. Capt. Jas. Dick and Mr. "ijicMurrich went fishing to Current River, about five miles to the north, where the speckled trout proved too large and * Tbe roinsuitio and uninhabited harbor on the south side of Michliiicoten Island, exceeds iu safety, extent, and gntndeu7 any hsrb«>r found on the shores of these ereat lakes. It was visited by the steamer •' Plaughboy^'' with a party of pleasure ob boArd in liifiO, lying at aiu:hor all night. 'HJji TRIP FROM COLLING WOOD TO FORT WILLIAM. 105 r grow- 3 sever- ou* ; the aitetish eason in d about i by old ; dnring id other r nature* I land is L two ex- je at Ot- hrpicoten place is on's Bay 'ort, Hud- >eeu pass- Michipi- reat min- lead ; the i location i-bor on the [exceeds ii> |>r found on VM visited party of '1, . ' strong for their light rods and tackle, smashing the tops of their rods and tear- ing away thuir lines and flies as fast as they were thrown in, and they iiad to give it up for want of material. One of the trout caught was the largest speckled trout I have seen for some years. There are trout in this strear*, and in all the rapid streams between the Saut and Fort Wil- liam, from 2 lbs. to 6 lbs., and if larger ones are required, at Neopigon River they can be caught from 8 lbs. to 12 lbs. Fancy such a cpot, ye disciples of Isaac Walton ; speckled trout to be had for the trouble of throwing a fly, witliin 3^ days of Toronto, weighing from 2 lbs. to 12 lbs. In this vicinity are to be found beautiful specimens of amethyst and other precious stones. " The gardens at Fort WiUiam and at th Jesuit Mission are as forward as those on the north part of the county of Simcoe. The Hudson's Bay Company have a large farm, 50 cows besides* horses and sheep, and up the river there are other farms; they raise oats, barley, and all kinds of vegetables, and I see no rea- son why they cannot raise wheat. Mrs. Mclntyre, the wife of the agent, was very poUte and kind, and invited us all up to the Fort — gave us supplies of milk and vege- tables. By this route their trade is car- ried on to Red River. Sir Greorge Simp- Bon returned from Red River just before we arrived with two canoes (9 men in each) aad left again for the Saut. This bay. Black Thunder, Neepigon Bay, and Pie Island Bay and neighborhood, abound in white fish and trout — 10 tish frequently fill a barrel — 20 as a general rule ; nets should be 5^ to 7^ inch mesh. Our pilot, two years ago, in five weeks, with two men, filled 175 barrels; he was furnished by merchants at the Saut with barrels and -alt, and $5 when returned fuU — the rate this year being about $4. Thirty barrels of white fish were taken at one haul of a seine near Fort William. We left Fort William at 8 P. M., for Grand Portage^ passing McKay's Mount of Greenstone, 1,000 feet perpendicular height. La Pate or Pie Island, 850 feet perpendicular ; this inland is said to abouud in lead ; hardly a stone can be picked up on the shore without lead in it. On aU these islands valuable stones can be pick- ed up, fit for brooches and rings. Th'- channel being very intricate, and the pilot not quite posted up, we lay to till day- break, and entered Grand Portage Bay at 5 A. M. Capt. Kennedy landed here with the mails, purchased a oanoe, and was ready to start before we left. A nudeua of a town has already sprung up here on the United States side. " After giving Capt. Kennedy a hearty shake of the hand all round, we startod homeward, at 7.16 a. m., and passed Ccp- per Harbor at 2 p. m., Manitou Light 5.U0 p. M., White Fish Point 6.40 A. M. ; and on the 18th July entered the Saut Canal at 10.18 a. m. Coaled on the American side, and wooded on Pirn's wharf, Brit '^h side. Landed the mail, and started at 2.46 p. H. Came to the wharf at Bruce Mines at seven p. u. — wooded and left at 7.40 — passing through the Mis- sesaga Straits and the channel between the Middle and West Duok. On the 19th passed Cove Island hght at 8 A. M.,7— Cabot's Fead 10 o'clock A. M., and came to the wharf at Colling- wood at 6 p. m. Thus making the first trip, including delays and stoppages round Lake Superior, in seven days and six hours ; distance run, taken from Bayfield's chart, between 1,250 and 1,300 (geographic cal) miles. The average speed, running time, being a little over ten miles per hour. " The scenery throughout, and especial- ly that of Superior, is magnificent. And now that the means of communication are afforded to this great and unknown region, in a safe and commodious boat, under the care of a well-known and ex- perienced captain, it must beoomo tho 106 TRIP THROUGH THE LAKES. 'lf'\] favorite route for the tourist in search of health and picturesque scenery." The Compiler of this volume having, during the summer of 1860, passed over the same route on hoard the Canadian Btesmer Ploughboy, can vouch for the Accuracy of most of the above described trip, exceeding in rich variety of lake and riyer scenery any other excursion, of equal extent, on the continent of Am- erica. The shores or mainland, together with virgin islands, are in view for most of the distance, except while crossing the wide waters of Lake Superior, — ^when aU the vastness of the ocean-deep is realized, — you then being surrounded by an un- broken waste of waters. 1^^ Distance around Ijake Superior. Saut Ste. Marie to Fort William, C. W., 300 miles ; Fort William to Superior City, Wis., 200 miles; Superior City to Saut Ste. Marie (American side), 665 miles — ^making the grand circuit of Lake Supe- rior, 1,065 miles. ., „ .*■>*», Dittancef flrom the Sant. Ste. JUarle to Superior City. Ports, Ac. ■ " ' ' Distances. Miles. Saut Ste. Marie, Mich 00 Point Iroquois 15 15 White Fish Point 25 40 Point au Sable ....*. GO 90 Pictured Rocks 20 llu Grand Island 10 120 Munising, Mich. . . , 5 125 Marquette, "..... 45 170 Huron Islands 45 215 Portage Sntry 25 240 Hough*' n (Portage Lake, 14 m.) „ Manitou Island, or Eewee- ) qq „qq naw Point ) CopperHarbor. 15 315 Agate Harbor. 10 325 Eagle Harbor 6 331 Eagle River 9 340 Onto^aoon, Mich 65 405 Porcupine Hills 25 430 La Poinie, Wis 52 482 Bayfield 3 485 Point de Tour 10 495 Superior Citt, Wis. 70 565 GRAND PLEASVEE EXGTTRSIOH ABOUND LAKE SUPERIOR. On leaving the Ship Canal, at th0 Saut. the steamer ascends a beautiful stretch of the St. Mary's River for 10 miles be- fore reaching Waiska Bay, being an ex- pansion of the river of about 5 miles. Here the shores assume a bold appearance well worthy the attention of the traveller before launching out on the waters of the broad lake. Iroquois Point, on the American side, and Gros Cap, on the Canadian side, are next passed, 15 miles from the Saut Ste. Marie. The latter is a bold promontory, risiug some 400 or 500 feet above the water, with still higher hills rising in the distance. ToNQUAiaiNONBAY is next entered, and a scene of grandeur is presented to the view; on the southwest or American shore the land rises to a moderate height, while on the northeast or Canada shore the land rises (o mountain height, being elevated from 800 to 1,000 feet, runniug off far in the distance toward the north. Parisient and other islands, attached to Canada, are passed on the right, the bay being about 25 miles long and as many broad; in fact, forming a part of Lake Superior, whose pure waters are in full view as far as the eye can reach. Gk)ULAia Bay, and Point, another bold headland, lie to the north of Qros Cap, EXCURSION AROUND LAKl SUPERIOR. 107 where enters a river of tlie same name, and are situated on the Canada side. Here are fine fishing-grounds in the bay, while the river abounds in s]keekled trout, being a favored resort for fishing-parties during pleasant weather. Lake Superior, by far the largest of the Inland Seas of North America, ly- ing between 46" 30' and 49° north lati- tude, and between 84" 30' and 92'* 30' west longitude, situated at a height of 600 feet above the sea, from which it is distant about 1,600 miles by th^ course of its outlet and the St. Lawrence River, is 460 miles long from east to west, and 170 miles broad in its widest part, with an average breadth of 86 miles. It is 800 feet in greatest depth, extending 200 feet below the level of tbe ocean ; estimated area, 32,000 square miles. Near two hundred rivers and creeks are said to flow into the lake, the greater part being small streams, and but few navigable, ex- cept by canoes, owing to their numerous falls and rapids. It contains several islands, the most important of which are Isle Btjyale, and The Twelve Apostles, near its western extremity, and Grand Island, all attached to the United States ; Caribou Island, Michipicoten, St. Ignace, Pie, Slate, and other islands attached to Canada. Kewebnaw Point is its most remarka- ble feature, jutting far out into the lake some sixty or seventy miles. On the range of hills running through this point, about 20 miles wide, are found the most val- uable copper mines in the world. Its good and secure harbors are but few on the south side of the lake, while on the north shore and islands are several perfectly safe harbors, and easy of access. It dis- charges its surplus waters by the Strait, or River St. Mary, 60 miles long, into Lake Huron, which lies 27 feet below, most of the de!i>cent being at the Saut Ste. Marie, where is a Ship Canal three-fourths of a mile in length, with two locks of 10 feet less each, overcoming a descent of 20 feet. " Tho early French Jesuit fathers, who first explored and described this great lake, and published an account of it in Paris, in 1036, describe the form of its shores as similar to that of a bended bow, the northern sliore being the arc, and the southern shore the cord, while Keweenaw Point, projecting from the southern shore to near the middle of the lake, fs the ar- row." This graphic description is illustrated by a map, prepared by them, which dis- rl&ya the geographical position of its ihorep with as much fidelity as most of the maps of our day, and proves that those early explorers were perfectly fa- miliar with its outline and shores. ^* The coast of Lake Superior is mostly formed of rocks of various kinds, and of different geological groups. With the ex- ception of sandy bars at the mouth of some of the rivers and small streams, the whole coast of the lake is rock-bound; and in some places, but mure particularly on the north shore, mountain masses of considerable elevation rear themselves from the water's edge, while mural preci- pices and beetling crags oppose themselves to the surges, of this mighty lake, and threaten the unfortunate mariner, who may be caught in a storm upon a lee-shore, with almost inevitable destruction." " Father of Lakes I thy waters bend Beyond the eagle's utmost view, When, throned In heaven, he sees thee send Back to the sky its world of blue, " Boundless and deep, the forests weave Their twilight shade thy borders o'er. And threatening cliffs, like giants, heave I Their rugged forms along thy shore." There are now situated on the Ameri- can side of Lake Superior twelve Ught- houses, viz., on Point Iroquois; White Fish Point; Grand Island; Marquette Harbor ; Portage Entry ; Manitou Island, near Keweenaw Point; Copper Harbor; I 108 TRIP THROUGH THE LAKES. ;.*■* Si' Eaf^lo Harbor ; Eagle Rirer ; Ontonagon, at mouth Ontonagon River ; La Pointe, on Madeline Island; and Minnesota Point, mouth of St. Louis River! A government survey of the Upper Lakes, including the St. Mary's River and Straits of Mackinac, is being made by a corps of Topographical Surveyors, which when published will furnish accu- rate charts of these Inland Seas. '. ;;":v White Fish Point, and Liairr-iiotJSB, 40 miles from the Saut, lies on the south- west or American shore, forming a oon- spicuous landmark, whUe Mamains Point is seen on the northeast or Canada shore. On passing White IHsh Point, where may be seen a number of " sand-dunes," or hills, and a light-house 75 feet in height, the broad waters of Lake Superior are reached. The steamers usually pur- sue a westerly course toward Grand Island or Marquette, passing Point au Sai)le^ 60 miles farther. During dear weather, the steep sandy hills on the south shore, ranging from 300 to 500 feet in height, may be seen from the deck of the steamer. Point \u Sable, 50 miles from White ! Fish t'oiut, is the first object of interest seen on the south shore, on the upward trip, from the deck of the passing steamer, which usually runs within sight of land, affording views of a continued succession of interesting points and bold headlands. The Pictured Rocks, 20 miles further, or about 110 miles from the Saut, are next passed, presenting a magnificent ap- pearance at certain times of the day, when favorably seen under the rays of a brilliant sun; then the effect is height- ened by the constantly changing appear- ance of these almost enchanted rocks. The steamers occasionally run close in shore, when the weather is favorable, af- fording a fine opportunity to examine these wonders of nature. it\tm »«•»* ,j J... Trip to £f surprise that, so far as wo know, none of our artists have visited this region, and ^ven to the world representations of scenery 80 sinking, and so ditferent' from any which can bi« found elsewhere. We can hardly conceive of any thing more worthy of the artist's pencil ; and if the tide of pleasure-travel should once bo turned in this direction, it seems not unreason- able to suppose that a fashionable hotel may yet be built under the shade of the pine groves* near the Chapel, and a trip thither become as c<»niraon as one to Niagara n<»w is." feet. Were they simply a line of difb, they might not, so far as relates to height or extent, be worthy of a rank among great natural curiosities, although such an assemblage of rocky str<»ta, washed by the waves of the great lake, would not, under any circumstances, bo destitute of grandeur. To the voyager coasting along their base in. his frail caiioe they would, at all times, be an object of dread; the recoil of the surf, the rock bound coast, affording for miles no place of refuge ; the lowering sky, the rising wind; all these woulu excite his apprehension, and induce him to ply a vigorous oar until the dreaded wall was passed. But in the Pictured Rocks there are two features which communicate to the scenery a won- derful and almost unique character. These are, first, the curious manner in which the cliffs have been excavated and worn away by the action of the lake, which for cen- turies has dashed an ocean-like surf against their base; and, second, the equal- ly curious manner in which large portions of the surface have been colored by bands of brilliant hues. "It is from the latter circumstRii'« that the name by which these cUffs a^e 'mown to the American traveller is derived; while that applied to them by the French voya- geurs ('Les Portails'*) is derived from the former, and by far the most striking pe- culiarity. " The term Pictured Rocks has been in use for a great length of time, but when it was first applied we have been unable to discover. " The Indian name applied to these cliffs, according to our voya/jeurs, is ScfJcuec- archibi-kung, or * The end of the rocks,' * Le Portail is a French term, signifying the principal entrance of a church or a portal, and this name was given to the Pictured Kocks by the voyugeurs, evidently in allusion to the arcbra entrances whicii constitute the most characteris- tic feature. Le Gnind Portail is the great arch- way, or Grand PortaL ,i"^jj' ''■«(■ ':> 110 ^«:; TRIP THROUGH THE LAKES. f-H which seems to refer to the fact that, ia ( descending the lake, after having passed them, no more rocks are seen along ihe shore. Our voyagewa had many legends to relate of the pranks of the Afenni-boupu in these caverns, and in answer to our in- quiries seemed disposed to fabricate sto- ries without end of th<) achievements of this Indian deity. «* We will describe the most interesting points in the series, proceeding from west to east. On leaving Grand Island harbor,* high cliffs are seen to the east, which form the commencement of the series of rocky promontories, which rise vertically from the water to the height of from one hun- dred to one hundred and twenty-five feet, covered with a dense canopy of foliage. Occasionally a small cascade may be seen falling from the verge to the base in an unbroken curve, or gliding down the in- clined face of the cliff in a sheet of white foam. The rocks at this point begin to assume fantastic shapes ; but it is not un- til having reached Miners' River that their striking peculiarities are observed. * The traveller desirous of visiting this scene Bhould take advantage of one of the steamers or Sropellers which navigate the lake and land at »rand Island, fh>in which he can proceed to make the tour of the interesting points in a small boat The large vessvls on the lake do not ap- pn>ach sufficiently near the cliffs to allow the trav- eller to gather more than a general idea of their position and outlines. To be able to appreciate and understand their extraordinary character, it is indispenMible to coast along in close proximity to the clilfs and pass beneath the Orund Portal, wnich is only accessible from the lake, and to land and enter within the precincts of the Chapel. At Grand Island, boats, men, and provi^tions may be iH-ocured. The traveller should lay in a go«»d stipply, if it is intended lo be absent long enough to make a thorttugh examination of the whole series. In fiict, an old voyager will not readily trust himself to the mercy of the winds and waves of the hike without them, as he may not unfre- quently, however auspicious the weather when sttirting, Hnd himself weather-bound for days to- gether. It is possible, however, in one day, to start from Grand Island, see the most interesting points, and return. The distance fn»m William's to the Chapel — the farthest point of interest— is aboat fifteen miles. Here the coast makes an abrupt turn to the eastward, and just at the point where the rocks break off and the friendly sand- beach begins, is seen one of the grandest works of nature in her rock-built archi- tecture. We gave it the name of 'Miners' Castle,' from its singular resemblance to the turreted entrance and arched portal of some old castle — for instance, that of Dumbarton. The height of the advanc- ing mass, in which the form of the Gothic gateway may be recognized, is about sev- enty feet, while that of the main wall forming the background is about one hun- dred and forty. The appearance of the openings at the base changes rapidly with each change in the position of the spec- tator. On taking a position a little far- ther to the right of that occupied by the sketcher, the central opening appears more distinctly flanked on either side by two lateral passages, making the resem- blance to an artificial work stiU more strik ig. "A little farther east. Miners' River enters the lake close under the brow of the cliff, which here sinks down and gives place to a sand-bank nearly a third of a mile in extent. The river is so narrow that it requires no little skill on the part of the voyager to enter its mouth when a heavy sea is rolling in from the north. On the right bank, a sandy drift plain, covered with Norway and Banksian pine, spreads out, affording good camping-ground —the only place of refuge to the voyager until he reaches Chapel River, five miles distant, if we except a small sand-beach about midway between the two points, where, in case of necessity, a boat may be beached. "Beyond the sand-beach at Miners River the cliffs attain an altitude of oiie hundred and seventy-three feet, and maintain a nearly uniform height for a con- siderable distance. Here one of those cascades of which we have before spoken is seen foaming down the rock. KXCURSIOR AROUND L/KS SUPERIOR. Ill "The difffl do not form straight Unes, but rather arcs of cirdes, the space be- tweea the projecting p^^^ints having been worn out in symmetrbai curves, some of which are of large dimensions. To one of the grandest and most regularly form* ed we gave the narne of 'The Auiphi- theatre.' Looking to the west, another projecting point — its base worn into cave- like forms — and a portion of the concave surface of tlie intervening space are seen. " It is in tliis portion of the series that the phenomena of colors are most beauti- fiilly/and conspicuously displayed. These cannot be illustrated by a mere crayon sketch, but would require, to reproduce the natural effect, an elaborate drawing on a large scale, in which the various combinations of color should bo carefully represented. These colors do not by any means cover the whole surface of the cliff even where they are most conspicuously displayed, but are confined to certain portions of the cliffs in the vicinity of the Amphitheatre ; the great mass of the sur- face presenting the natural light-yellow or raw sienna color of the rock. The col- ors are also limited in their vertical range, rarely extending more than thirty or forty feet above the water, or a quarter or a third of the vertical height of the cliff. The prevailing tints consist of deep-brown, yellow, and gray — ^burnt sienna and French gray predominating. " There are also bright blues and greens, though less frequent. All of the tints &re fresh, brilliant, and distinct, and har- monize admirably with one another, which, taken in connection with the grandeur of the arched and cavemed surfaces on which they are laid, and the deep and pure green of the water which heaves and swells at the base, and tlie rich foliage which waves above, produce an effect truly wonderful. '* They are not scattered indiscriminate- Iv over the surface of the rock, but are arranged in vertical and parallel bands, extending to the water's edge. The mode of their production is undoubt- edly as follows: Between the bands or strata of thick-bedded sandstone there are thin seams of shaly materials, which are more or less charged with the metallic oxides, iron largely predomina- ting, with here and there a trace of copper. As the surface-water permeates through the porous strata it comes in contact with these shaly bands, anu, oo ..^ out from the exposed edges, trickles down the face of the cliffs, and leaves behind a sediment, colored according to the oxide which is contained in the band in which it origi- nated. It cannot, Lowcver, be denied that there are some |/eculiarities which it is difficult to explain by any hypothesis. " On first examining the Pictured Rocks, we were forcibly struck with the brilliancy and beauty of the colors, and wondered why some of our predecessors, in their descriptions, had hardly adverted to what we regarded as their most characteristic feature. At a subsequent visit we were surprised to find that the effect of the colors was much less striking than be- fore ; they seemed faded out leaving only traces of their former brilliancy, so that the traveller might regard this as an un- important feature in the scenery. It is difficult to account for this change, but it may be due to the dryness or humidity of the season. If the colors are produced by the percolation of the water through the strata, taking up and depositing the colored sediments, as before suggested, it is evident that a long period of drought would cut off the supply of moisture, and the colors, being uo longer renewed, would fade, and finally disappear. This explanation seems reasonable, for at the time of our second visit the beds of the streams on the summit of the table-land were dry, "It is a curious fact, that the colors are so firmly attached to the surface that they are very little affected by rains or m\\ ji_^ 119 TRIP THROUGH TBI LAKIH. Ill the dashing c»t' the surf, since they were, in numerous instances, observed extend- ing in idl their freshness to the very wa- ter's edge. ** Proceeding to the eastward of the Amphitheatre, we find the difl's scooped out into caverns and grotesque openings, of the most striking and beautiful variety of forms. In some places huge blocks of sandstone have become dislodged and ac- cumulated at the base of the cliff, where they are ground up and the fragments borne away by the ceaseless action of the surge. " To a striking group of detached blocks the name of 'Sail Bock' has been given, from its striking resemblance to the jib and mainsail of a sloop when spread — so much so that when viewed from a dis- tance, with a full glare of light upon it, while the cliff in the rear is lefb in the shade, the illusion is perfect The height of the block is about forty feet. "Masses of rock are frequently dis- lodged from the cliff, if we may judge from the freshness of the fracture and the appearance of tlie trees involved in the descent. The rapidity with which this undermining process is carried on, at many points, will be readily apprecia- ted when we consider that the cliffs do not form a single unbroken line of wall ; but, on the contrary, they present numer- ous salient angles to the full force of the waves. A projecting corner is undermin- ed until the superincumbent weigjuti be- comes too great, the overhanging mass cracks, and, aided perhaps by the power of frost, gradually becomes loosened and finally topples with a crash into the lake. " The same general arched and broken line of cliffs borders the coast for a mile to the eastward of Sail Rock, where the most imposing feature in the series is reached. This is the Grand Portal — Le Grand Portail of the voyageurs. The gen- eral disposition of the arched openings which traverse this great quadrilateral mass may, perhaps, be made intelligible without the aid of a ground-plan. The main *xxiy of the structure consists of a vast mass of a rectilinear shape, project- ing out into the lake about six hundred feet, and presenting a front of three hun- dred or four hundred feet, and rising to a height of about two hundred feet. An entrance has been excavated from one side to the other, opening out into large vaulted passages which communicate with the great dome, some three hundred feet from the front of the cliff. The Grand Portal, which opens out on the lake, is of magnificent dimensions, being about one hundred feet in height, and one hun- dred and sixty-eight feet broad at the water-leveL The distance from the verge of the cliff over the arch to the water is one hundred and thirty-three feet, leaving thirty-three feet fur the thiclcness of the rock above the arch itself. The extreme height of the cUff is about fifty feet more, making in all one hundred and eighty- three feet. "It is impossible, by any arrangement of words, or by any combination of col- ors, to convey an adequate idea of this wonderful scene. Thewvast dimensions of the cavern, the vaulted passages, the varied effects of the light, as it streams through the great arch and falls on the different objects, the deep emerald green of the water, the unvarying swell of the lake, keeping up a succession of musical echoes, the reverberations of one's own voice coming back with startling effect, all these must be seen, and heard, and felt, to be fully appreciatf'd. • "Beyond the Grand Portal the cliffs gradually diminish in height, and the gen- eral trend of the coast is more to the southeast ; hence the rock, being less ex- posed to the fotce of the waves, bears fewer marks of their destructive action. The entrance to Chapel River is at the most easterly extremity of a sandy beach which extends for a quarter of a y \ ■, ^H"^ >^v V . I »':;■,' ■■',j • i\:v' « .■">• » ^ ■Ct-^?' ■**' 'I Hi . *• •Av, ^'f^/ft- ;i'!^ ■ I ■'H' 5,*^ _ ' 'ill' 5* *-, -■^V-i* - '»-. ^T" r i n Mil '<^i.^ ... <•. . L-i-X I IIP ii < '%||!i!;|fi!|!|: •♦ • * • f. . 1 rt IJ « XXCURSiON AROUND LARB 8UPBRI0B. lis I • mile, and affords a oonrenicnt landing- plaoe, while the drift-terraoe, elevated about thirty feet above the lake-level, be- ing lui open pine plain, affords ezoellent citnipiug-ground, and is the most central and coiivonient spot for the traveller to piu-h hia tent, while he examines the most interesting localities in the serietj lurtiich occur in tliia vicinity — to wit, the Grand rortol and the Chapel. (See Engraving.) '"Tlie Chapel — La Cfuipelk of the voya- gears — if not the grandest, is among the most grotesque of Nature's architeoture iiero displayed. Unlike the excavations before described, which occur at tlie wa- ter's edge, this has been m. de in tlie rod^ at a heiglit of thirty or forty feet above the lake. The interior consists of a vault ed apartment, which lias not inaptly re- ceived the name it bears. An arched roof of sandstone, from ten to twenty foet ill tliicknesa, rests on four gigantic col- umns of rock, »o as to leave a vaulted apartment of irregular shape, about forty feet in diameter, and about the same in }ieight The columns consist of finely (stratified rock, and have been worn into curious shapes. At the base of one of tliom an arched cavity or niche has been cut, to which aoces^is had by a flight of etcps formed by the projecting strata. Tlie' disposition of the whole is Buch as to resemble very much the pulpit of a church ; since there is overhead an arch- ed canopy, and in front an opening out toward the vaulted interior of the chapel, with a flat tabular mass in front,' rising to a convenient height for a desk, wliile on the right is an isolated block, which not inaptly represents an altar; so that if tlie whole had been adapted expressly for a place of worship, and fashioned by tlio hand of man, it could hardly have been arranged more appropriately. . It is J I hardly possible to desoribe the singular and uniqi^e effect of this ^traordinarj structure ; it is truly a temple of statui*— 'a house not made with hands.' *'0n the west side, and iq close prox- imity. Chapel River enters the lake, pre- cipitating itself over a rocky ledge ten or h^een feet in height* " It is surprising to see how little the action of the stream has worn away the rocks which form its bod. There appears to have been hardly any recession of the cascade, and the rooky bed has been ex- cavated only a foot or two since the stream assumed its present direction. " It seems therefore impossible that the river could have had any influence in ex- cavating the Chapel itself, but its exca- ^'atioa must be referred to a period when the waters of the lake stood at a higher level " Near the Grand Portal the cliffs are covered, in places, with an eflSoresoence of sulphate of lime, in delicate crystalli- zations ; this substance not only incrusts the walls, but is found deposited on the moss which lines them, forming singular and interesting specimens, which how- ever cannot be transported without losing their beauty. '^'''" ^" '' ' * ' "At the same place we found numer- ous traces of organic life in the form of obscure fucoidal marking?, which seem to be the impressions of plants, similar to those described by Prof. Hall as occurring in tlto Potsdam sandstone of New York. Tiiese were first noticed at this place by Dr. Locke, m 1847.'' * "■ At thlB fall, scoording to Iminemorltl nsaffo aiiioDg, the voyageura in tUMUinding the lake, the mangmrs dz lard, who inuko their flrat trip, re- ceive haptisin ; which consists in giving them a severe ducking — a ceremony son;ewhat similar to that practiflod on ^dea-k.>m8 wiiaii aouing the Una. n ■;i: ."-<• ! lU iiofRtp THRoron The lakes, -''^-i .■ht %svere writtea hj J. G. Whittub, on receiving an eagle's tirtiU, when on a risit *o Lake Superior in 1846. '•'iJ'' >-i-i'i'';;uL,' :,.;^f THE SEER. '-- • : i I heu* the ranK>ff voyager's horn, ' "'" V I see the Y»ii>kee'B trail— "^ ' <..>\} His foot ou «ver>' moantain pass, . y-i {.i: On every stream bis sail He's whistling round St Mary's Falls, Upon liis loaded train ; , . . , He's leaving on the Pictured BooIm His Aresh tobacco stain. I see the mattock in the mine, The axe-stroke in the dell. The clamor from tMe Indian lodge. The Jesuit's chapel belli 1 see the swarthy trappers come From Mississippi's Springs ; .ihd war-chiefs with their jtainted brows, ' And crests of eogle wings. Behind the scared jquaw's birch canoe, The steamer smokes and raves ; < And city lots are staked for sale Above old Indian graves. u By forest, lake and water-fell, * I see the peddler's show ; The mighty mingling with the mean, The lofty with the low. ^^ -. 1 hear the tread of pioneem Of nations yet to be ; The first low wash of waves where soon Bhali roll a human sea. The rudtrav^nts of empire here Are plastic yet and warm ; The caaos of a mighty world Is rounding into form I Each radd and jostling fhtgment soon Its fitting place shalT find — The raw materials of a state, » Its muscle and its mind ! Ai;.(l, westering still, the star which leads The new world in its train, Has tipped with fire the icy spears Of many a mountain chain. Grand Island, 125 miles distant firom the Saut, is about 10 miles long and 5 wide, lying close in to the bou^ shore. This is awfld and romantic island; the dtffs of sandstone, irregular and broken into ' 7 the waves, form picturesque cav- ems, pillars, and arches of immense di- mensions. There are several romantic bays and inlets protected from storms, which are frequent on this great lake, where the brook trout of a large size can be caught in quantities. The forests also afford a delightful retreat, while all nature seems hushed— save by the moaning winds and billowy jurg^s of the surround- ing waters. n .. A few fairilies reside on the south shore, facing the mainland, where i» a clearing of considerable extent. The main-shore in full sight, and the Pictured Rocks, visible from its eastern shore, alto- gether add a charm to this truly Grand Island, unsurpassed by no other spot in this interesting region. MuNiSiNO, formerly cillied Grand Island City, lies on the south side Of Grand Island Bay, here about 3 miles in width. Here is a steamboat wharf and hotel, together with a few dwellings, being, no doubt, destined tb become a favorite place of resort, as from this place the Pictured Rocks can bo easily reached by canoes or small boats during calm weather. Trout fishing is also good in Ann's River, which enjiers Grand Island Bay, and in Miner's River, aear the Pictured Rocks. The bay or harbor is capacious, deep, and easy of access from the east or west, being 6 miles in length by from 2 to 4 in width, with a depth of water of 100 feet and upwards. It is perfectly land- locked by hills rising from 100 to 300 feet high, and capacious enough to contain the entire fleet of the lakes. It is proposed to construct a railroad from this harbor to the head of Big Bay de Noc, the most northern arm of Green Bay, only 40 miles distant. * Miner's Point, a most remarkable head- land, lies 6 mUes east of Munising, at the mouth of a small stream of the same name. BlCMARKABLB PHENOMENA ON LAKE SUPERIOR. 115 l*he action of the waters has here dis- integrated portions of the sand-stone formation, forming romantic cavems and grottoes where the waters of the lalce penetrate, making strange music in the subterranean passages. MoNUMBXT Rock, about one milo west of Miner's Point, is another 8trau|f3 freak of nature, being an upright column stand- ing in full view, near the ii^'ater's edge, elevated some 80 or 100 feet ab.''°'e Sie lake. (Sm Engraving.) All these poluta csn easilj be reat^ed from Munising, or Grand Idand, by » sail or row boat :■ -:.-.'l. : .,/H W r : '' • ■ .,.i- ..' ■ ' .' 1'' w- • .,' it I.".'?.; t'. .i MONUJfKNT BOC&. Remarkable Phenomena on I^ake Superior, The sudden and singular changes of the weather on Lake Superior, in connection with its healthy influence, during the sum- mer and fall months, present one of the phenomena of nature which seems almost unaccountable. The sun frequently rises clear and cloudless, giving indications of continued suushiise, when suddenly the sky becomes overcaist with whitfe, fleecy'* clouds, scudding low tad giving out a chilly atmosphere, not unfVequehtly ac- companied with rain, — the clouds as sud- denly disappear, and a pleasant afternoon usudly follows, with light winds. This influence, causing a fluctuation of several degrees of the thermometer, seems to have an injurious effect on most kinds of fruit and vegetables requiring a warm sun throughout tlie day in order to arrive at maturity ; the country a few miles in- land, however, being less subject to these frequent changes. On the 6th of August, 1860, there oc- curred a reiftarkable phenomenon, as wit- nessed on Grand Island Bay, near the Pictured Rocks-— Lake Superior being here about 170 miles wide. During the fore- noon of a pleasant summer's day, the wa- ter was observed suddenly to fall some three or four feet perpendicularly on tho south shore, then rise in about half an hour, as buddenly again to recede and rise several times; exposing the bed of the lake for a considerable distance where 116 ;,f',Vv!^,«'iTRIP THROUGH THE LAKES. rX'^j^^jsit^ii II ,1 : ■ ■ Tlli the water was shallow, affording a fine op- portunity to collect pebbles or different hues, and precious stones. At noon the wind blew moderately from the southward, while the thermometer ranged at about 74*^ Fahr. This appa-' rently calm and pleasant weather was ta- ken advantage of by a party of pleasure to cross the bay in a sail-boat from Munislng to Grand Island, 3. miles distant, affording a delightful excursion. On looking eastward at about 4 o'clock, p. ic., a dense fog or low cloud was seen rapidly to enter the east channel of the bay, from the north- ward, rolling on in majestic grandeur, and presenting apparently the smoke caused by the discharge of a park of artillery, ob- scuring every object in the far distance, while the headlands within one or two miles were distinctly visible. As it ap- proached, the thermometer fell several degrees, and rain followed, attended with lightning and thunder. Soon, however, the wind lulled, or entirely ceased, while' the rain poured down in torrents. The mist or fog seemed mostly to ascend as it passed over the high lands on the main land, and assumed the appearance of clouds, while portions remained, in low and wet localities, above the forest-trees, — presenting altogether a most magnifi- cent appearance. The rain-storm and cloud effect, after continuing some two hours, as suddenly ceased, followed by a splendid rainbow, — ^being the harbinger of a pleasant evening and calm weather for a time. Mackenzie, who wrote in 1789, relates a very similar phenomenon, which oc- curred at Grand Portage, on Lake Supe- rior, and for which no obvious cause could be assigned. He says : "Tlie water with- djajw, leaving the ground dry which had never before been visible, the fall being equal to four perpendicular feet, and rush- ing back with great velocity above the common mark. It continued thus rising and falling for several hours, gradually decreasing until it stopped at its usuid height." To the mariner these sudden storyas and fluctuations, accompanied by fog^, are attended with much danger, more partic- ularly if near the land, when the sun and all objects in sight suddenly disappear as if in darkest night, the terrific noise of the waves and wind alone being heard. When followed by snow the danger is still more increased, frequently causing the most disastrous shipwrecks. In this high latitude a perfect calm seldom contin- ues but for a short time ; the wind will oc- casionally lull, when fitful gusts disturb the waters, to be followed by a breeze or storm from some quarte?of the compasfl. On examiniag the meteorolc^ical record kept at Fort Mackinac, about 100 miles distant in a southeast direction from C rand Island, it was found that the thermome- ter ranged at 78* Fahrenheit at 2 p. m. on the above day ; the wind being from the south. At 7 p. m. a heavy rain and thunder storm commenced, which lasted two hours, the same as on Lake Superior, terminating with a gorgeous sunset view, exceeded only by the magnificent aurora, which frequently illuminates the northern heavens in this high latitude, or the beau- tiful mirage of mid-day, which reflects with remarkable distinctness the invisible landscape, aud vessels floating on the bo- som of this vast inland sea. How far the receding of the waters had to do with the above coming storm, must be left to conjecture or further in- vestigation—no doubt, however, it caused a displacement of water at some remote parts of the lake, which was almost im- mediately felt at other and far distant points. So with the vapory clouds which suddenly rise over Lake Superior ; they, no doubt, being caused by cold currents of air from the higher regions or north- west, passing over warmer portions along the (louih shore, when immediately a mist or fog ?s created, which ascends in the REMARKABLE PHKNOMSNA ON LAKK SUPERIOR. 117 '■« usual itorvfls «, are partic- m aud ear as aise of heard, iger is lausing In this contin- svill oc- disturb breeze jmpasfl. I record miles tt Grand irmome- ; 2 P. M. [ig from rain and 1 lasted uperior, et view, aurora, lorthern le beau- reflects invisible the bo- waters storm, ther in- oAused remote nost im- distant s which they, currents >r north- ns along y a mist in the form oi clouds into the upper reg^ions ; not, however, at first very far above the lake level — thus giving out the cold in- fluence above referred to as pecuUar to the south shore of the lake when the northwest winds prevail: this cold in- fluence being most probably wafted far to the east and southward, producing, no doubt, an effect on the weather along the Atlantic coast several hundred miles to the southeaf--^. The northwest winds which mostly prevail in the States of New York and Pennsylvania have a modified character, similar to the winds from the same quarter passing over the upper lakes of North America — ^affording a cool and bracing influence on the human system. Another remarkable feature in the cli- mate of Lake Superior, is its healthy and invigorating influence on residents and invfdids suffering from incipient pulmo- nary and throat complaints — the sudden changes of hot and cold, or wet weather, seem to brace the constitution, without producing any other injurious effects than rheumatism, when too much exposure is endured. While the balmy southern clime too often disappoints the invalid, this north- ern climate, its influence extending west- ward toward the Rocky Mountains, seems to give strength to the respiratory and digestive organs — thereby often effecting most miraculous and permanent cures, witliout the aid of medicine, other than that afforded by nature — pure air and water. The intense colds of winter are here represented as being far more endu* rable than in more southern latitudes, along the Atlantic coast, whero damp northeast storms prevail. In Foster and Whitney^ s Report on the Geology of Lake Superior, the phenome- na of theso fluctuations are elaborately discussed; and, for the most part, they are found to be the premonition of an ap« proaching gale. They remark, that the earth may be regarded as surrounded by two oceans— one aerial, the oti or liquid. By the laws which regulate two fluids thus relatively situated, a local distur- bance in the one would produce a corre- sponding disturbance in the ocher. Every rise or fall of one-twentieth of an inch in the mercurial column, would be attended with an elevation or depression in the surface of the water equal to one inch. A sudden change of the atmos- pheric pressure over a large body of wa- ter would cause a perpendicular rise or fall, in the manner of waves, greater than the mere weight itself, which would prop- agate themselves in a series of uuduia- tions from the centre of disturbance. These undrJations result from an unusual disturbance of the atmosphere occurring around the margin of the storm, and its effects are perceived before the storm ao tually breaks. Rise and Fall of the l¥aterg of Liake Superior. Prom a series of careful observations continued through a period of eight years, from 1854 to 1862, by Dr. G. H. iilaker, of Marquette, L. S., it has been found that the annual rise and fall of the surface of Lake Superior ranges between 20 and 28 inches. From the first of May, when the snow begins to molt freely, until the first of September, the surface of the lake level continues to rise constantly, about six inches a month, until it gains, on an aver- age, two feet by the middle of August; — and by the first of September it begins to fall, and so continues through the win- ter, until about the middle of April. The permanent rise, however, was found to I: (sJi J* ii VI Hi ii' 118 , it* r;nv TRIP THBOUOH THE LAKES. lAAlbf^il i' ■'! ii: mm It:,'' ' haire been about two inches more than I3ie fall for the first six years, from 1854 to end of 1859, thus making a total rise of some 12 inches in the lake level at the latter period. During the years 1860 and 1861, the waters of Lake Superior fell about two inches annually, making a fall of four inches since 1859, at which period they were at their highmst -point. '. : . During the winter of 1861-'62, there fell -at Marquette only fowr feet and two inches of snow, being about one-quarter the usual amount, — and for the spring months of 1862 there fell only five inches of moisture, being about one-half the usual quantity. These well-authenticated and singular facts, continued to July, 1862, show that the waters of Lake Superior at Marquette are twenty indies lower than they were in 1861 — thus showing an un- v\^vaX depression in the waters of this great iipland sea. 1 When thesA. interesting observations shall have been extended over a longer period and at different stations, they will, no doubt, solve the mystery which has heretofore involved the annual and period- ical rise and fall of these great waters in obscurity. j A careful survey of the great lakes by a corps of engineers attached to the Topo* graphical Bureayi is now nearly comple- ted, which will give meteorological results and tidal observations of the greatest im- portance to the mariner, agriculturist, and intelligent traveller. - marquette, the county seat of Mar- quette county, &nd a port of entry, is advan- tageously situated on the Bay of Marquette, in N. hit. 46° 32', W. long. 87° 41'. The harbor is safe and commodious, being fully protected from all but northeast winds, when vessels are obliged to anchor in the bay for safety. The settlement of Mar- quette was commenced in July, 1849, and incorporated as a village in June, 1869. It now contains a oourt-house and jail; 1 Episcopal, 1 Methodist, 1 Presbjrterian. 1 Baptist, and I Roman Catholic church: 4 public-houses, the Marquette Howe and Tremont House being the most frequented by strangers ; 2 printing-offices ; 1 5 or 20 stores and storehouses; besides a large foundry and machine-shops of different kinds. Population in 1860, 1,665. This flourishing town is identified with the iron-ore beds in the vicinity, being some 12 or 18 miles distant, situated on an elevated ridge being known as the Iron Mountain. Here are now three ore- beds extensively and profitably worked, being owned by the Jackson Iron Com- pany, the Cleveland Iron Mining Compa- ny, and the Lake Superior Iron Company ; each of the above companies have sepa- rate docks, from which the ore is shipped to the Eastern markets. A railroad e^ tends from Marquette to the Lake Supe- rior mine, 18 miles, affording ample means for the transportatiukee is a new and thriving settle- ment, situated on the lino of the railroad, 12 miles from Marquette, and in the im- mediate vicinity of the Iron Mountain. Here is a population of about 1,000 souls, being mostly engaged in working at the nunes. ■.iK S-J\. -.r.- .uf:. Trout Fishing. Extract Jrom a Mabquettb Paper of July, 1862. "The chances for taking trout in our streams and lakes this season appear to be better than ever. Every day we see parties of our citizens or visitors starting out, armed and equipped with all the im- plements necessary and convenient for the sport, and returning with satisfied coun- tenances and fine strings of 'speckled trout' " A considerable quantity have been ta- ken about the rocky points that extend into the bay and laJce, while along the Carp, Dead River and smaller streams, the sportsman meets with excellent suc- cess. " To those fond of taking long fishing excursions, and enjoying the luxury of 'camping out,* this country offers extra inducements. Various pUees, both above and below us, on the lake shore, wbidi are easily reached by sail-boat, s;e fre- quented by lovers of sport, who always return with a good supply of trout "Back in the country are the £sconawba River and Lake Michigaumie, both of which are within a comfortable day's journey from the terminus of the railroad. The scenery around this lake and al<^ ng the river is delightful, which, with the abun- dance of fish to be taken there, well repays the trouble of the excursion." i-i.if. i<.i^\ Bay de Koqaet and Mar* quettc Railroad. This road was commenced in 1853, as a private company, by the late Herman B. £1^ and his associates, and chartered in 1855, under the title of the Iron Mquh- tain Railroad; finished in 1857 to the Lake Superior Iron Mine, 17 miles distant from Marquette; paseiugthe Jackaon Mint^ 14 miles, and the Cleveland Mine, 16 miles. In 1859 it was consolidated with the Bay de Noquet and Marquette Railroad, which will be extended to the head of Little Bay de Xoquet, situated oo the north end ef Green Bay, a total distance of 70 miles. When finished it will form a direct route, by means of railroad and steamers, to all the ports on Green Bay and Lake Michi- gan. This road has a land grant from government of six sections of timbered land for every mile constructed, amount* ing to 420 sections of 640 acres each, of 268,800 acres, valued at $672,000. This is a well-constructed road k>y far as finished, having an ascending grad^ for twelve miles, overcoming an elevation of 850 feet before reaching the Iron MineS| thus facilitating the transportation of iron ore to the port of shipment, where extent sive piers are constructed for loading of vessels engaged in this growing and inii portant trade. The amount carried over the road in I860, ftven>|^ about 1,500 H 120 ,SlO\ TRIP TBROUOH THB LAKES/ ii,; !l tons daily, during the season of naviga- tion. It has at the present time (18G2) in use four first-class looomotives and 350 freight-cars, with a carrying capacity of 2,500 tons a day. On leaving Marquette the coast tends north-westward, passing Presque Jsle and other bold headlands, the coast here pre- senting a rocky, iron-bound appearance for many miles, with high hills in the distance, being elevated from 800 to 1,000 feet above the waters of the lake. Granite Island, 15 miles north of Marquette, is passed on the right, having on one side two vortical walls of trap, 20 feet high and 12 apart, forming a secure boat harbor. On the mainland opposite is seen Granite Point, rising from 120 to 130 feet. Due North from the above island lies Stanard's Rock, a most danger- ous projection discovered by Captain Stanard in 1835, while in the employ of the American Fur Company, sailing the schooner John Jacob Astor. The rock may be seen on the direct route of steam- ers from Marquette to Manitou Island or Copper Harbor. The Huron Isles, lying aboub 20 miles east of Portage Entry, numbering .'ive or six rocky islands or islets, form a most picturesque group, covered in part with a stunted growth of trees. : J Huron Bay and Pc«nt Abbeys are next passed, and the upward bound steam- er enters a large expanse of water called L'Ance, or Keweenaw Bay, extending far inland. L'Ancb is an excellent harbor where is a small settlement, situated at the head of Keweenaw Bay. A short distance north are located a Roman Catholic and Metho- dist mission-house r church. The Cath- olic being on the \. \ shore of the Bay, and the Methodist v he east, both are surrounded by Indian tribes and settle- ments. This locality, at no distant day, must become an important point, being favorably situated between the iron and nopper regions of Lake Superior. Portage Entry, 10 miles above Mar- quette, is an important port of entry, here being the mouth of the outlet to Portage Lake, where stands a light-house to guide the mariner. The land here is low and the shore un- interesting, except being lined with va- riegated sandstone, worked into almost every variety of shape by the action of water. i.r..-t^'.K. ■:,' . The Entry and ZaA;e is an extensive and beautiful sheet of water, extending to within half a mile of the entire breadth of the peninsula of Keweenaw Point, in the county of Houghton. It receives a number of small streams, draining tho rich copper region of Lake Superior. No portion of the south shore of Lake Supe- rior exceeds this lakQ and its vicinity as a resort for invalids. In the immediate vicinity of the lake are found rich deposits of copper, yield- ing great returns to the miner and capi- talist, .■i^jnii-^y' I . guide \ore un- wiiii va- almosi ction of eive and ding to breadth Point, in ceives a ling tho ior. No ke Supe- cinity as the lake jr, yield- nd capi- i^ng on a side-hill rising 300 or 400 feet, is identified with the copper mines in its immediate yicinity. There are several mines worked to a large extent, besides others of less note which will, no doubt, soon be rendered productive. The min- eral range of Keweenaw Point, some 4 to 6 miles in width, extends through all this section of country, being as yet only partially explored. The Isle Boyal, Hu- ron, and Portage, are the principal mines worked on the south side of the lake. PoBTAOB Lake is an irregular body of water about 20 miles in length, extend- ing nearly across Keweenaw Point to within 2 miles of Lake Superior. Steam- ers and sail-vessels drawing 12 feet can pass through Portage Entry, and navi- gate the lake with safety. This body of water was an old and favorite thorough- fare for the Indians, .and the Jesuit Fa- thers who first discovered and ex{dored this section of country. A canal of two miles in length would render this port«^ route navigable for steamers and sail- vessels navigating Lake Superior, there- by reducing the distance over 100 miles. During the winter months the atmosphere is very clear and transparent in the vi- cinity of Hougliton, and all through Ke- weenaw Point ; objects can be seen at a great distance of a clear day, while sounds are conveyed distinctly through the at- mosphere, presenting a phenomenon pe- culiar to all northern latitudes. This is the season of hoalth and pleasure to the permanent residents. Hancock, Houghton county, Michi- gan, is situated on the north side of Port- ago Lake, opposite to the village of Hough- tun, with which it is connected by a steam lorry. The town was first laid out in is 5 8, and now contains about 4,000 in- habitants, including the mining popula- tion on the north side of the lake ; its sudden rise and prosperity being identi- tiod with tlie rich deposit of nat^e copper, in which this section of country abounds. Ti;e nite of the village is on a side-hill rising from the lake level to a height of about 500 feet, where the opening to tho mines is situated. Here is 1 Congrega tional, 1 Methodist, and 1 Roman Catholic church ; 3 public-houses, the Mason House being a well-kept hotel; a number of stores and warehouses, 1 steam saw-mill, 1 barrel-factory, 1 foundry and machine- shop, and other manufacturing establish- ments; also, in the vicinity are 4 exten- sive steam stamping-mills worked by the different mining companies. The Portage Lake Smelting Works is an incorporated company, turning out annually a large amount of pure merchantable copper. The business of the company consists of fusing and converting the mineral into refined metal for manufacturing purposes. Lake La Bblle, lying on the south- east side of Keweenaw Point, near its termination, is a beautiful sheet of water, its outlet flowing into B^te Gris Bay. It is about two and a half miles long and half a mile wide. In the vicinity of the lake are veins of copper ore of a rich quality, and it is proposed to commence mining operations on a large scale ; also improve the navigation of the outlet for steamers, thereby affording easy ingress to the above lake. Kbwbenaw Point ♦ is a large extent of land jutting out into Lake Superior, from 10 to 25 miles wide and about GO miles in length. This section of country for upward of 100 miles, running flrom southwest tT> northeast, abounds in silver ♦ " On many maps spelled Keweewaiicona, and otherwise. Pronounced by our Indians, 'Ki-wi- wai-non-ing,' now written and pronounced as above ; meaning a portage, or place where a port- age is made — tho whole distance of some eighty or ninety miles around the Point being saved bv entering Portage Lnl(e and t'oUowing up a suiall stream, leaving a portage of only about a half mile to Lake Superior on tho other aids." — Fo4- UfT and Whitney's Report. :^ iyl. % p' T * ■ i. b\ f m ^a. TRIP THR0V6H THK LAKES. f' J '! aud oopper ores, yielding immense quan- tities of the latter; much of it being pure native oopper, but often in such large masses as to render it almost impossible to be separated for tlie purpose of trans- portation. Masses weighing from 1,000 to 5,000 pounds are often sent forward to the Eastern markets. The geological formation is very interesting, producing apecimens of rare beauty and mudi value. Manitou Island lies off Keweenaw Point, on which is a light-house to guide the mariner to and from Copper Harbor. The island is about 7 miles in length and four wide. Copper Habbor, Mich., is situate! near the extreme end of Keweenaw Point, in N. lat. 47 » 30', W. long. 88<» 00'; the har- bor, although somewhat difficult to enter, is one of the best on Lake Superior, being distant 250 miles from the 8a,ut Ste. Marie. The settlement contains about 200 inhabi- tants, a church, a hotel, and two or three stores. Fort Wilkins, formerly an U. S. military post, has been converted into a hotel, being handsomely situated on Lake Fanny Hoe, about half a mile distant from the steamboat landing. In the vicin- ity are copper mines which have been extensively worked, and are well worthy of a visit. Agate Harbor, 10 miles west of Cop- per Harbor, is the name of a small settle- ment. This port is not as yet mudi fre- quented by steamers. Eagle Harbor, 16 miles west of Cop- per Harbor, is a good steamboat landing. Here are two diurches, a good public- house, together with several stores and storehouses. Population about 700, be- ing mostly engaged in mining. The Central, Copper, Falls, Pennsylvania, and Amygdaloid are the principal working copper mines. Eagle River Harbor and Village, eight miles further, are favorably situated at the mouth of a stream of the same name. Here are two churches, a well-kept hotel, four stores and iev«ral atorehouses. Po^ ulation 800. This is • thriving tettlemeut^ it being the outport of the celebrated Cliff, or Pittsburgh and Boston, and other mines. The copper found in this vicinity is of the purest quality, where is found silver in small quantities, some of the specimens being highly prized. Off this harbor the lamented Dr. Houghton waa drowned, October, 1846, while engaged in exploring this section of country : Ke- weenaw Point and adjacent country be- ing very appropriately named Houghtob County in honor of his memory. On the north aide a£ Keweenaw Point bold shores extend to near Ontonagoo. with high land^ in the distance, formmg the rich oopper range of this region. OntonaifOli, Ontonagon Ca, Mich., 336 miles from the Saut Ste. Marie, is advan- tageously situated at the mouth of the river of the same name. The river is about 200 feet wide at its mouth, with a sufficient depth of water over the bar for large steamers. Here is being erected an extensive pier and breakwater. The village contains an Episcopal, a Presby- terian, and a Roman Catholic church ; two good hotels, the Bigeiow House and John- son House ; two steam saw-mills, and ten or twelve stores and storehouses, and about 1,200 inhabitants. In this vicinity are located t)ie Minne- sota, the National, the Rockland, and several other very productive copper mines. The ore is found from twelve to fifteen miles from the landing, being im- bedded in a range of high hills traversing Keweenaw Point from N. E. to S. W. lor about 100 miles. Silver is here found in small quantities, beautifully intermixed with the copper ore, which abounds in great masses. A good plank road runs from Ontona- gon to near the Adventure Mine, and other mines, some twelve or fourteen miles distant, where commences the cop- per range of hills. A small steamer also V '" RXCUB8I0H AmOUND'LAKK SUPBRIOR. 1S8 UMfl. PO^ settlement^ celebrated , and other this vicinity re is found omo of the d. Off this ughton was I engaged in luntry: Ke- oountry be- 1 Houghton Mnaw Point Ontonagon tnoe, forming region. )n Ca, Mich., arie,isadvan- louth of the The river is Qouth, with a Br the bar for ling erected wat«r. The _^ a Presby- church; two te and Johti' ^ills, and ten ibouBes, and id tlie Minne- Lockland, aud Active copper »m twelve to Ing, being im- (ills traversing to S. W. lor [here found in ly intermixed [h abounds in Ifrom Ontona- (re Mine, and or fourteen [nces the cop- steamer ol^ runs on Ontonagon Birvr to near the Minnesota and National Mines, where is « flourishing settlement inhalnted by miners. tl .h.'-Tt ?>;!>■':.•«•»}.•" The Ontonagon River is thus beautifully described by IIobjbbt Alav, £sq., To the Ontonagon Rlrer. Sweet river, on thy silTery tide The sable warriors no more glide; Along thy wild and wooded shore Their iLindling watcb-flres blaie no more. Wherever thouroam'st by dale or hill Thy banks are silent now aud still, As if thy waves, since time be&^an, ' Had ne'er t>een stained by savage man. Unlitie the tide of human time, Which keeps each grief^ retains each crime, And deeper, as it downwiu>d flows, Is stained with past and present woes. Flow on, thou gentle river, flow Through summer's rain and winter s snow ; May Indian war-whoops no more wake Thy echoes, as thou seek'st the lake, But peaoeftil lovers by thy stream On future Joys and pleasures dream. i T St. Amuwmw. ••*' of Omtm ty, 1M«, Females. 31 10 Population Conn Towns, 4ce, Males. Algonquin, AS Flint Steel, 20 Oreenland, lOS 67 ; Maple Grove, 67 57 Minneiota, 660 184 National, 346 90 Nebraska, '-■- 34 2% Ontonagon, ' 650 498 Pewabic, ' 71 38 Rockland, 187 95 Rockland Mine, 206 41 Rosendale^ 344 S51 Superior, '■'■ '*' 16 9 Webster, 261 79 Williamsburg, 68 30 TotiL 77 30 296 844 336 66 1,148 109 283 253 696 24 340 98 Total, 4,488 The Porcupine Mountain, lying somo 16 or 20 miles west of Ontonagon, is a bold headland that can distinctly be seen at a great distance, rising some 1,300 feet above the lake surface. LAKS 8UPEKI0K: ITS CLIMATE AND UEALTH-BESTOBINO INFLUENCE. [Extract firom a letter dated Mabqvrtb (Mien.), September 1, 18^] " The number of visitors to this health- restoring region during the past summer l&B been very great, and I wish to record my testimony of its benefit to myself and Others. The great mistake, however, is, with most invalids, tliat they do not come 'i&rly enough in the season, and remain too short a period to feel the full effects oa the system ; still the beneficial results ftre usually felt immediately on arriving iu this region. " The following statement, made by a physician, may be relied on as strictly oor- roct: » Dr. , of the city of Philadelphia, was induced to leave home for the benefit of his httalth, being reduced in physical strength from over«application to his practice, and the heated weather of the past summer producing muscular debility, arterial acceleration of the system, loss of appetite and nervous irritability, causing restless and disturbed sleep and occasional confusion of the mental faculties. "On the 12th of August, 1863, he started for Cleveland, Ohio, and proceed- ed directly by steamer to Marquette, Lake Superior, wheru ho urrivoJ ou the 16th of P ,'• 124 'fni TRIP THROUGH THB LAKIS'. ^3 the same month. The rojrage was con- tinued to Ontonagon and thenoe back to Marquette, where he remained until the present date. " The result of this short voyage and stay on the lakes was truly gratifying, he being greatly invigorated in general health, and now able to endure any amount of fatigue desirable — fishing, hunting, or ex- ploring the mines in this rich mineral re- gion, and at all times finding the atmo* sphere truly invigorating, producing buoyancy of spirits. In his opinion the atmosphere of Lake Superior and the surrounding shore is well calculated to restore those who are in any way ener- vated by unhealthy climate or disease; the belief being, in his opinion, that tho at- mosphere of this northern region possesses an excess of oxygen, together with a pe- culiar dryness and Ughtness whioh admi- rably adapts it to the purposes of free respiration. The lowuess of the temper- ature, ranging from 40" to 70° Fahrenlieit during the summer months, although not tending to provoke colds or ooughs, causes a disposition to sleep as easily and quietly as a healthy babe in its cradle. " Invalids suffering from asthma, bron- chial, pulmonary affections, or general debility, are directly relieved and invig- ,.\ J r^^ J u A •- »- .. * . i. ' . ' .; • 1 * * ' (L.I ■ii l' ■ ■'■■■ ■ . • La Pointe, 11 miles west of Ontonagon, situated on the south end of Madeline Island, the largest of the Apostle Islands, is one of the oldest settlements on Lake Superior; it was first peopled by the French Jesuits and traders in 1680, being 420 miles west of the B£!ut Ste. Marie, which was settled about the same time. The mainland and islands in this vicinity have been for many ages the favorite orated — these beneficial results being ac* knowledged by all patients who give the wonderful recuperating influence of tliiH climate a fair trial. It is not unusual for invalids to gain half a pound of Hcyli daily, and in the summer of 1862 an oflBcer from the army of West Tennessee, on furlough on account of sickness, stated that he had gained thirty pounds withia as many days, although his strengtli had not as yet returned, but no doubt he only wanted time to feel the full recuperating effects of the Lake Superior region. '• Although the winters are long, they are considered the most healthy period of the year, the extreme cold not being greater than is sometimes felt in tho Northern and Eastern States near tho seaboard. There is usually a heavy fall of snow, often continuing daily, at inter* vals for some weeks, with but little thaw- ing weather. The cases of invalids being relieved, and taking up their permanent residence in this region, is yearly in- creasing, ihey being living witnesses of its health-restoring qualities. " I may add my own individual expe- rience to the above, during the past eight years, having four times visited Lake Su- perior. Yours, &o., "J.D." .> *- :! I.. r::t abode of the American Indian, now lin- gering and fading away as the country is being opened and settled by tho white race. The village now contains 300 inhabi* tants, most of whom are half-breeds and French. Here is an old Roman Catholic church, and one Methodist church ; 2 ho- tels, 2 stores, and several coopering estab- lishments for the making of fish-barrels. EXCURSION ABOUND LAKK 8UPBRI0R. 125 8 being ac* 10 give the mce of thi« unusual for ad of rtesh >f 1862 an Tennessee, ness, stated ands within trength had )ubt he only ■ecuperatiog egion. B long, they jlthy period d uoc beln; felt in tho es near tiio a heavy fall «ly, at inter- it little thaw- ivalids being r permanent is yearly in- witnesses of vidijal expc- ,he past eight Ited Lake Su- fcc, The harbor and steamboat landing are on thu south end of tlio island, where may usually be seen fislaug-boats and other crutl navigating this part of Lake Superior. Wheat, rye, barley, oats, peas, potatoes and other vegetables, are raised in large quantities. Apples, cherries, gooseberries aud currents are raised in the gardens at La Poinle. The wild fruits are plums, cran- berries, strawberries, red raspberries, and whortleberries. The principal forest-trees on the islands are maple, pine, hemlock, birch, poplar, and cedar trees. Bayfield, capital of La Pointe Co., Wis., is favorably situated on the southern shore of Lake Superior, 80 miles east of its western terminus, and 3 miles west of h\ Pointe, being 80 miles west of Onton- ai^on. The harbor is secure and capa- Cious, being protected by the Apostle Islands, lying to the northeast. The town Dlot rises from 60 to 80 feet above the waters of the lake, affording a splen- did view of the bay, the adjacent islands and headlands. Its commercial advan- tages are surpassed by no other point on Lake Superior, being on the direct route to St. Paul, Minn., and the Upper Missis- sippi. Here are siti'ated a Presbyterian, a Methodist, and a Roman Catholic church ; 2 hotels, 4 stores, 2 warehouses, 1 steam saw-mill, and several mechanics' shops. Population in 1860, 300. The Hudson and BayfieM Railroad^ 164 miles in length, has been surveyed and will most probably be completed within a few years, there being a favorable land grant conceded to the company. This will afibrd a speedy route to St. Paul and other ports on the Mississippi River. La Pointe Bay, on the west side of which is situated the port of Bayfield, is a large and safe body of water, being pro- tected from winds blowing from every point of the compass. The shores uf the islands and mainland are bold, while the harbor affords good anchorage for the whole fleet of the lakes. The Indian Agency for the Chippewa tribe of Indians residing on the borders of Lake Superior, have their headquarters at Bayfield. The annual annuities are usually paid in August of each year, when large numbers tiock to the Agency to ob- tain their pay in money, provisions, and clothing. Ashland, 12 miles south of La Pointe, at the head of Chagwamegon Bay, is another new settlement no doubt destined to rise to some importance, it having a very spa- cious and secure harbor. Maskeo River, a considerable stream, the outlet of several small lakes, enters Lake Superior about 16 miles east of Ash> land ; some 10 miles farther eastward en« ters Montreal Rivbr, forming the boun- dary, in part, between the States of Mich- igan and Wisconsin. The Twelve Apostlks' Isles consist of the Madeline, Cap, Line, Sugar, Oak, Otter, Bear, Rock, Cat, Ironwood, Outer, and Presque Isle, besides a few smaller islands, being grouped together a short distance off the mainland, presenting du- ring the summer months a most picuresque and lovely appearance. Here are to bo seen clay and sandstone cliffs rising from iOO to 200 feet above the waters, while most of the islands are clothed with a ricb foliage of forest-trees. The Twelve Apostles' Islands. The following description of these ro- mantic islands is copied from Owen^s Geo- logical Survey of Wisconsin, &c. " When the waters of Lake Superior assumed their present level, these islands were doubtless a part of the promontory, which I have described as occupying the space between Chagwamegon Bay and Brute River. They are composed of drift-hills and red clay, resting on sand- stone which is occasionally visible. In the lapse of ages, the winds, waves, and cur- 120 .:V01 ntxp TIIROVOH THl LAKll, ''>V^» rents of the lakes oat awaj channels !■ these soft materials, and finally separated the lowest parts of the promontory into islands, and island^rocks, now twenty- three in number, which are triM outUers of the drift and sandstone. '* At a distance they appear like main* land, with deep bays and points, graduallj becoming more elevatod to the westward. ' lie au Chene,^ or Oak Island, which is next the Detour (or mainknd), is a pile of detached drift, 260 or 300 feet high, and is the highest of the group. Made- line, ' Wau-ga-ba-me' Island, is the lar- gest (on which lies La PointeX being 13 miles long, from northeast to southwest, and has an average of 3 miles in breadth. "Muk-quaw"or Bear Island, toid '*Esh- quagendeg" or Outer LMnds, are about equal in size, being six miles long and two and a half wide. " They embrace in all, an area of about 400 square miles, of which one-lialf is water. The soil is in some places good, but the m%jor part would be difficult to dear and cultivate. The causes to which I have referred, as giving rise to thickets of evergreens along the coasi of the lake, operate here on all sides, and have covered almost the whole surface with cedar, birch, aspen, hemlock, and pine. There are, however, patches of sugar-tree land, and natural meadows. " The waters around the islands afford excellent white fish, trout, and siskowit, which do qot appear to diminish afler many years of extensive fishing for the lower lake markets. For trout and sis- kowit, which are caught with a line in deep water, the best ground of the neighborhood is off Bark Point or ' Point I'^corce' of the French. Speckled or brook trout are also taken in ail the small streams. '^That portion of the soil of the inlands fit for cultivation, produces potatoes and all manner of garden vegetables and roots in great luxuriance. In the flat wet parts, both the soil and dimat* are favor able to grass ; and the crop is certain and stout. Wheat, oats, and barley do weU on good soil when well cultivated. *' In regard to health, no portion of the continent surpasses the Apostle Ishtnda. In the summer months they present to the residents of the South the most cool and delightful resort that can be imagined, and for invalids, especially such as are affected in the lungs or liver, the uniform bracing atmosphere of Lake Superior pro- duces the most surprising and beneficial effects." ' • i. . » . r. Healthy Inflnenco of lAke Superior. No better evidence can be given of th« healthy climate of the Lake Superior re- gpion than the following extracts from let- ters, written by well-known individuals: "Batfibld, July 28th, 1860. "/)ear Sir: — Perhaps it would be inter- esting to you to state, in a few words, the happy effects that this climate has pro- duced for me. "Previous to my coming here I consulted with three physicians in Philadelphia, one in the central part « f Pennsylvania, one in Washington, >:> C, and one in G^eorgetown, D. C. It was the opinion of all that consumption was tightening her grasp upon me, and that soon I would be laid in the grave. Under medical advice I made use of an inhaling apparatus, drank cod-liver oil and whiskey, but all witliout any beneficial results. Through the ad- vice of friends, and in hopes of saving my life, I came to this place, June 6th, i^^l, bringing with me three gallons of cod- liver oil and three gallons of old rye whiskey. This bracing atmosphere seem- ed to give me inunediate relief, and in a short time it seemed as if a heavy load IXCURSION AROUND LAKI 8UPIRIOR. 127 ) tre lkvor> jertain and y do wett ted. tion of the Ue leliinda. present to > most cool e imagined, uoh as are he uuiform jperior pro d beneficial r>- .,«..-» 9f lf saving my 16 6th, i^^l ons of cod- of old rye sphere Beem- lief, and in a heavy load was remoted fironi my chest I used the cod-liver oil in feed for young chickens and greasing my bootd, and gave the most of the whiskey away. I am now (three y<^ars after my arrivak here) enjoy- ing excellent health. ** AespectfuUy youri, f>t t , » *'i* J Bronchial, or TIbroat Dibkask. Rev. W L resided in Malcme, Franklin county, New York, during the year 1850, where he first was troubled by the bronchud disease, which led to bleed- ing of the throat From Malone he re- moved to Fairfield county, Connecticut, in 1852, near Long Island Sound, where the (disease increased in virulenoe,assuming an alarming dmracter. In 1855 he removed to Syracuse, New York, where he con- tracted a remittent fever, without being benefited in regard to his throat disease. In 1 858 he visited Europe for the benefit of his health, without his throat disease being benefited, although he improved in general health. In August, 1859, he removed to Eagle River, Michigan, situ- ated on the south shore of Lake Superior, where he gradually improved in health ; but on moving a few miles in the interior, near one of the copper mines, his healtii rapidly improved, and a permanent cure was effected, as he supposes, by pure and bracing air — ^for which this whole section of country is justly celebrated. DISTANOM FROM fON D DtT LAOTO ST. PAVL, MtNlT. F«>SDi>i;LAn(St Louis River) Miloc Pukii^eiiia. {Portiiffe) 75 Fai.u St. Croix (OMioe) 40 115 Muriiitf Mills, {Steamboat) 19 184 Stillwater. " 11 146 St. Paul (51fei^<) 19 168 Distance from Superior City to St. Cloud (Sauk RapidsX by proposed rail- road route, 120 inilea. St. Cloud to St. Paul, 76 miles. Total, 196 miles. DISTAMOBS FBOM SrPBBIOB OITTTO PBMBINA, MIHir. SuPERiOB Mileft. Obow Wino 80 Otter Tail Lake TO IftO Uice River 14 224 Siind IIlllB Rivtr... TO 2D4 Grand Furk (Red River) 40 884 Pbmbina 80 414 From St Paul to Pembina, via Crow Wing, 464 m. Fond dd Lao, St. Louis county, Minn., is situated on St. Louis River, 2U miles above its entrance into Lake Superior. Vessels of a large class ascend to this place, being within lour miles of tlte St. Louis FaUa, having a descent of about 60 feet, aflbrd- ing an immense water-power. Hero are sandstone and slate quarries, from which il II % » I. i , J I' 4: ', ii- 1 J In 128 TRIP THROUGH THE LAKES. liiiit'iiii. Btone end slate are quarrkd, and exten> sively used for building purposes. Iron and copper ore abound in the vicinit/. These advantages bid fair to make this point a mart of commerce and manufac- ture. St. Louis Rever, flowing into the S. W. end of Lake Superior, is a large and im- portant stream, and is navigable for steam- ers and lake craft for upward of 20 miles from its mouth. Above the falls (where the water has a descent of GO feet, pre- senting a beautiful appearance), the river is navigable for canoes and small craft for about 80 miles farther. This river is the recipient of tiie waters of several small lakes lyicg almost due north of its outlet, its head waters flowing south from .near Rainy Lake. j Ui ^^ ,to ,, . PoETLAND, St. Louis coujity, Minn., ad- vantageously situated at the extreme west end of Lake Superior, seven miles N. W. from Superior City, is a place of growing importance, where is a good steamboat landing, with bold shore. This is the cap- ital of the county, and bids fair to be a successful competitor with Superior City for the carrying trade of the Great West and Pacific coast. Along the shore of the luke northward are to be seen bold sandy bluffs and highlands, supposed to be rich in mineral wealth. Bellville, Minn., is a new settlement, situated on the lake shore, 4 or 5 miles nortli of Portland. Clifton, St. Louis Co., Minn., situated 11 miles N. B. of the head of Lake Superior, is a new settlement. In the vicinity are rich copper mines and good farming lands. Buchanan is another new settlement, situated northeast of Clifton, possessing similar advantages. BuRUNQTON is a new settlement, situ- ated near Agate Bay. Ekoampmbnt is the name of *a river, island and village, where is a good har- bor, thb r?outh of the river being pro- tected by the Island. On the river, near its entrance into the lake, are falls afford- ing flne water-power. Cliflfs of green- stone are ta be seen, rising from 200 to 300 feet above the water's edge, presenting a handsome appearance. To the north of EncHmpment, along the lake shore, abound porphyry and greenstone. This locality is noted fbr a great agitation of the innf the mii-the V*la« Carn. Tmt. $2,000 1S4T 18,000 1847 4,000 1860 10,000 1861 600 ■ • • • 18,000 1868 2,600 1858 12,000 1864 1,509 1864 4,000 law 10,000 1856 15,000 1856 26,000 1857 2,500 1868 John Jacob Astor. Wo have compiled the following table, which will be found of interest to those connected with the Lake Superior copper trade : — Nmk* of VeMel lott. Valnn. Schooner MerclMnt $4,000 Propeller OoMftth ....*.,.. 18,000 Steamer Ben Franklin.. .16,000 Propeller Monticello 80,000 Schooner Blskowit 1,000 Pi-opeller Indepesdenoe.. 12,000 Steamer Albany 80,000 Propeller Peninsala 18,000 Steamer E. K. Collins.. .100,000 Steamer Baltimore 16,000 Steamer Superior 15,000 Propeller B. L. Webb.... 60,000 Propeller aty of 8uperior.60,000 Propeller Indiana 8,000 $866,000 $125,000 —making a grand total of $491,000. Since the above Table was compiled the following losses have occurred in the Lake Superior trade: Steamer Arctic, wrecked on Lake Supe- rior, June, 1860. Steamer Gazelle, wrecked on Lake Su- perior, 1860. Steamer Elgin, lost on Lake Michigan, September ), 1860. Steamer North Star, burnt at Cleveland, February, 1862. The loss of life by the accidents given above is^ as near as can be ascertained, as follows : — Schooner Merchant '18 Propeller Independence 3 Steamer E. E. GoUina 20 Steamer Superiw 64 Steamer Lady Elgin 360 Steamer Sunbeam 36 Total. ,480 Steamer Snnbeam lost In a gale on Lake flope- rior, Aug. 23, 1868. 'U ;ll : lit lit: i I'M y pi i ■ I' ifii l:",\^'?7.T' "T.VVfl^MTiiai- '^ • '".V ^ ill 132 J:,' TRIP THROUGH THE LAKES. The I^akes— lAnd of the Free. ^' • Columbians sboms are wild and wide, Columbia's LakM are grand, And rudelf planted side oy aide, Her forests meet the eye ; But narrow must those shores be made, And low Columbia's hills, And low her ancient forests laid, i. ,, .; ^ 'EitefrMdom leaves her fields; For His the land where, rude and wild, Hhe played her gambols when a child. And deep and wide her streams that flow Impetuous to the tide, And thicic and green the laarela grow On every river side ; But should a trans- Atlantic host '^''"^ Pollute our waters fair. We'll meet them on the rocky coast, And gather laurels there ; For O, Columbia's sons are braye, And fre ' as ocean's wildest wave. The gale that waves her mountain pine Is fragrant and serene. And never brighter sun did shine " ^ Than lights her valleys green ; But putrid must those breezes blow, The sun must set in gore, Ere footsteps of a foreign foe SCU ' Imprint Columbia's shore ; U For O, her sons are brave and free, > Their breasts beat high with Liberfy. jC. #^ n V' ■;;.?& aeed. Where the bountiftil seasons ran all to waste, T 11 the Briton the Savage and Sluggard diB< placed; Know ye the land, &C. The land where the Saxon, the CtanL and the Celt, The first glow of patriot brotherhood felt. And forgetting old feuds in amity dwelt ; Know ye the land, &c. T^e land nnpollnted by Despot or Slave, '^ ;> « ^ustictt is done on the Dastard and Knave, W^j ii or is paid to the Wise and the Brave : Know ye the land, Ac. The land where the Tta4ih«r is honored iaH sought ; Where the Schools are all busy, the children all taught ; Where the Thinker, unfettered, can utter hii thought ; Know ye the land, Jbe. The land where the Famur Is Lord of the Soil, Where the ToiUr himself reaps the fruit of hit toU, Where none has a TifU his neighbor to spoil; \ ir- '.!<-, 'r.i Know ye the land, d:c. The land where the Chsristnan can openly priiv, As Scripture and Conscience mAy show him uo way, leas of Fear] clerical tyrant or lay ; Know ye the umd, Ac f:j IXlV'j^y OP.t The land which, the older and stronger it grew, To Law and to Iioyalty still kept more true, Both to Princ* and to People according their due; Know ye the land? ^s a glorious land I And the land la our own dear home I ?fl iff ■ |>o.l •i»'i'>.'-'>'^Y 'hf % • ■ ' ■ •'•--• _-i ■ ^ > .' . - ''j '.'fft'O !; /■*!., y:i..';'i til .U:."i' J,t^«,t vh^'" "■ 'i> '.ll' to waste, [iggard diB< «a\ and the •dfelt, iwelt ; , Ac Blave, d and Knave, idtheBraye: ., Jbc. honored iaA e children all can ntterbii 1, Jcc >rd of the Soil, lie fruit of hii bor to spoil; d,&c. 1 openly pray, ' show uim tko td, kc. I'Vi ronger it grew, : more true, ccording their rnd? landl ir homo t m\ ?;f»-.. 'U;r: '■<^ .N ^rlp along the North Shore of I^ake Superior, -.fir Made on Boabd thb Canadian Stbameh Plouohbot, August, 1860. ..[-^ Qn leaving the mouth of the Ship Canal^ above the Rapids at the Saut Ste. Marie, a boautiful stretch of the river is passed and Waiska Bay entered, which is a small expanse of water extending westward to Point Iroquois^ on the south shore, 15 miles distant. Immediately opposite rises Gros Gap, on the Canada side, being ftbout four miles asunder. This bold headland con- sists of hills of porphyry rising from 600 to 700 feet above the waters of the lake. " Gros Cap is a name given by the voya- geurs to almost innumerable projecting headlands; but in this case appropriate — since it is the conspicuous feature at the entrance of the lake." North of Gros Cap lies Goulais Bat, and Goulais Point, another bold high- land which is seen in the distance. Gou- lais River enters the bay, affording, in conaection with the adjacent waters, good fishing-grounds; the brook pr speckled trout being mostly taken in the river. Here is a large Indian settlement of the Chippewa tribe. The whole north shore, as seen from the deck of the steamer, pre- sents a bold and grand appearance, while in the distance, westward, may be seen the broad' waters of Lake Superior. T AQUAMENON B AY is next entered, which is about 25 miles long and as many broad, terminating at White- Fish Point, 40 miles above Saut Ste. Marie. Parisien Island is passed 30 miles from the Saut, lying near the middle pf the above bay, being attached to Canada. Sandy Islands, lying off Batcheewaua- ung Bay, form, with others, a handsome group of islands, where are good fishing- grounds, being distant from the Saut Ste. Marie about 35 miles. Mamainse Point {Little Sturgeon), op- posite White-Fish Point, is another bold headland, where is u fishiug station and a few dwellings. The Montreal Company's copper mine is located near this point, 46 miles north of the Saut, where is a small settlement of miners. Here is a good har- bor, the land rising abruptly to the height of 300 feet, presenting a rugged appear- ance. Some 12 or 16 miles north are lo- cated, on Mica Bay, the Quebec Copper Mining Company's Works, at present aban- doned, owing to their being found unpro* ductive. StUl farther north, skirting I^ko Superior, is to be found a vast Mineral Re- gion, as yet only partially explored. Montreal Island, and River, 20 miles north of Mamainse, afford good fishing- grounds. Here is a harbor exposed to the west winds from off the lake, which can safely be approached when the winds are not boisterous. Lizard Island and Leach Island, some 10 miles farther northward, are next pars- ed, lying contiguous to the mainland. Cape Gargantua, 40 miles north of Mamainse, is a bold headland. On the south side is a harbor protected by a small island. From this cape to the island of Michipicoten the distance is about 30 miles. MiCHiPicoTEN Harbor, and River, 110 miled north of the Saut Ste. Marie, situated in N. lat. 47® 56', W. long. 85« ')6', affords a safe anchorage, being surrouuded by high hills. Hero is established a Roman Catholic mission, and an important Hud- son Bay Company's post, from whence diverges the river and portage route to James's Bay, some 350 miles distant. The shore of the Lake here tends westward toward Otter Head, about 60 miles distant, presenting a bold and rugged appearance. This post, no doubt, is destined to become a place of resort as well as a commercial dep6t, from whence is now distributed the merchandise belonging to the above gigan- tic company — having exchisive sway over [if ■' M ' ' 134 TRIP THROUGH THE LAKES. I ii an immense region of country, extending northward to the arctic regions, and west- ward to the Pacific Ocean. MiCHiPiconsN Island (the Island of Knobs or Bills), 66 miles from Mamainse Point in a direct course, running in a northwest direction, lies about 40 miles west of Michipicoten Harbor. This island, 15 miles in leng^ and 6 miles wide, may be called the gem of Lake Superior, pre- senting a most beautiful appearance as approached from the southward, where a few picturesque islands may be seen near the entrance to a safe and commodious harbor, which can be entered during all winds. Nature seems to have adapted this island as a place of resort for the seekers of health and pleasure. Within the bay or harbor a beautiful cluster of islands adorns its entrance, where may be found agates and other precious stones: while inland is a most charming body of water, surrounded by wooded hills rising from 300 to 500 feet above the waters of Lake Superior. The shores of the island abound with greenstone and amygdaloid, while copper and silver mines are said to exist in the interior, of great value, al- though, as yet, but partially explored. The fisheries here are also valuable, afford- ing profitable employment to the hardy fisherman of this region. As yet, but one single shanty is erected on the shores of this romantic island, where, sooner or later, will flock the wealthy and beautiful in search of health and recreation, such as are afforded by pure air, boating, fish- ing, and himting. The fish mostly taken in this part of the lake are white-fish, siskowit, Macki- nac trout, and speckled trout, the former being taken by gill-nets. On the mainland are found the carabou, a large species of deer, bears, foxes, otters, boavers, martins, rabbits, partridges, pig- eons, and other wild game. The barberry, red raspberry, and whortleberry are also found in different localities. Caribou Lsland, lying about 25 miles south of Michipicoten, near the middle of the lake, is a small body of land attached to Canada. It is usually passed in sight when the steamers are on their route to Fort William. Otter Bat, 25 miles north of Michipi- coten, is a beautiful and secure body of water, being protected by an island at its entrance. Here is a wild and rugged sec- tion of country, abounding in game of the fur-bearing species. Other bays and islands are found along the north shore beyond Otter Head, toward Pic River and Island, and said to be of ' great beauty, the whole coast being bold and rugged as seen from the water. At the mouth of the Pic is situated a Hudson Bay Company's Post. Slate Islands are a cluster of great interest, where is to be found a large and secure harbor, lying north of the principal island of the group. To the north, on the mainland, are numerous bays and in- lets affording safe harbor. As yet, the wild savage of the north alone inhabits this section of Canada West, which no doubt is rich in minerals of different kinds. The Hudson Bay Company's vessels now af- ford the only means of visiting this inter- esting region, which can alone be brought into notice and settled by the discovery of copper or silver mines of value sufiBcient to induce capitalists to organize Mining Com- panies. Copper Region of Lake North Shore. Superior— of the See Whitney's Metallic Wealth United States, Phila., 1854. The North Shore of Lake Superior is supposed to be very rich in mineral pro- ductions, although as yet but partially explored. The " Montreal Mining Com- pany" have a mine which is now being HOBTH SHORK OV LAXJt £ IRIOa. 136 worked to a limited extent at Mamunse Point, affording gray sulphuret of copper of a rich quality. The " Quebec and Lake Superior Slining Association" conunenced operations in 1846 at Mica Bay, a few miles north of Mamainse, on a vein said to be rich in gray sulphuret of copper. An adit was driven 200 feet, three shafts sunk, and the 10-fathom level commen- ced. After spending $30,000 it was dis- covered thi»t the mines were unproduc- tive, and the works were abandoned. A number of localities were explored, and worked to some extent on Michipico- ten Island and on the mainland to the northward, but they are now nearly all abandoned. A surveying party, however, are now (I860) enga^d in exploring the north shore of Lake Superior, under the authority of the Provincial Parliament, in order to be able to report in regard to the mineral region. The northwest borders of the lake, and in particular the Island of St Ignace, Black Bay, Thunder Cape, Pie Island, and the vicinity of Prince's Bay are supposed to be rich in both copper and silver. Splen- did crystallisations of amethystine quartz and calc spar have been obtained on Spar Island, near Prince's Bay, and at other localities^ FoBT William, an important Hudson Bay Company's Post, is advantageously situated at the mouth of the Kaministi- quia River, in north latitude 48 degrees 23 minutes, west longitude 89 degrees 27 minutes. Here is a convenient wharf and safe harbor, the bar off the mouth of the river affording 7 or 8 feet of water, which can easily be increased by dredg- ing. The Company's buildings consist of a spacious dwelling-house, a store, and 3 storehouses, besides some 10 or 12 houses for the accommodation of the attaches and servants in the employ of the above gigantic company Thie land is cleared for a considerable distance on both sides of the river, presenting a thrifty and fer- tile appearance. Wheat, rye, oats, bar- ley, potatoes, and most kinds of vegeta- bles are here raised in abundance ; also, grass and clover of different kinds. The early fh>sts are the great hindrance to this whole section of country, which ia rich in minerals, timber, furs, and fish: altogether producing a great source of wealth to the above company. Pine, spruce, hemlock, cypress, and balsam trees are common, also white birch, sug^* maple, elm, and ash, together with some hanly fruit-bearing trees and shrubs. The Roman Catholic Miaaion^ sltaated 2 miles above the company's post, on the opposite side of the river, is an interest* ing locality. Here is a Roman CathoUe diurch and some 50 or 60 houses, being mostly inhabited by half-breeds and dvi- lized Indians, numbering about 300 souls. The good influence of the Roman Catholic priests, along the shores of Lake Superior are generally admitted by idl unpreju^ced visitors — the poor and often degraded In- dian being instructed in agriculture and industrial pursuits, tending to elevate the human species in every clime. McKay^a Mountain^ lying 3 miles west of Fort William, near the Roman Catholio Mission, presents an abrupt and grand appearance from the water, being elevated 1,000 feet Far inland are seen other high ranges of hills and mountains, pre- senting altogether, in connection with the islands, a most interesting and sublime view. Kaministiquia, or ^^Gah-mahnalekwai- ahk^^ River, signifying in the Chippewa language the, ^^ place where there are many currents" empties its waters into Thun- der Bay. This beautiful stream affords, navigation for about 12 miles, when rap- ids are encountered by the ascending voy- ageur. Some 30 miles above its mouth ia a fall of about 200 feet perpendicular de- scent. •i' ii\¥ i!; \v . b 186 TRIP THROUGH THE LAKES. 'r*;;fiT- ;r ": i ' .:. : ■ I) ' Thuitdbr Bat presents a large expanse of water, being about 25 miles in length and from 10 to 15 miles wide, into which flows several small streams, abounding in speckled trout. Thunder Cape, on the east, is a most remarkable and bold high- land, being elevated 1,350 feet above Lake Superior. It rises in some places almost perpendicular, presenting a basal- tic appearance, having on its summit an extinct volcano. From the elevated por- tions of this cape a grand and imposing view is obtained of surrounding moun- tains, headlands, and islands^-overlook- ing Isle Roy ale to the south, and the north shore from McKay's Mountain to the mouth of Pigfeon River, near Grand Port- age, Minnesota. Pie Island, in the Indian dialect called "Mahkeneeng^^ or Tortoise, bounding Thun- der Bay on the south, is about 8 miles long and 5 miles wide, and presents a most singular appearance, being elevated at one point 850 feet above the lake. This bold eminence is shaped like an enormous slouched hat, or inverted pie, givmg name to the island by the French or English explorers, while the Indians gave it tlie name of tortoise from its singular shape. This elevated point is basaltic, rising per- pendicular near the top, like the Palisades of the Hudson Biver. Thunder Bay, and its vicinity, has long been the favorite residence of Indian tribes who now roam over this vast section of country, from Lake Superior to Hudson Bay on the north. The mountain peaks they look upon with awe and veneration, often ascribing some fabulous legend to prominent localities. A learned Mission- ary, in describing this interesting portion of Lake Superior and its inhabitants, re- marked, that " tlie old Indians were of the opinion that thunder clouds are large gigantic birds, having their nests on high hills or mountains, and who made them- selves heard and seen very far off". The head they described as resembling that of a huge eagle, having on one side a wing and one paw, on the other side an arm and one foot. The lightning is supposed to issue from the extremity of the beak through the paw, with which they launch it forth in fiery darts over tlie surrounding country." Black Bay, lying east of Thunder Cape, is 45 miles long, and from six ^o eight miles wide, being encompassed on both sides by high and lofty hills. Towards the north are two peaked eminences termed the Mamelons or Faps, from their singular formation, resembling a female's breast, when seen at a distance. . "■ "^* ; " Nsepigon Bay is anothef romantic sheet of water, containing a number of beautiful wooded islands. It is about forty miles long and fifteen miles wide, being mostly surrounded by high and rocky eminences. Here the explorer, hunter, and angler may alike enjoy themselves with the wonders of the surroimding scene. Copp ^, silver, lead, and precious stones are Ljre to be found in abundance on the islands and the mainland; while there is no end to the game and fish of this region. The Island of St. Ignace, lying on the north shore of Lake Superior, is a large and important body of land, being rich in minerals and precious stones. It is about 17 miles long and six miles wide; the bills rising to 1,300 feet in some places, giving it a wild and romantic appearance from the water. Here are five small lakes, all being connected, and the outlet forming a beautiful stream, with rapids and faUs. Large quantities of brook trout make these lakes and streams their favor- ite resort, they being but frequently visit- ed except by the trapper and miner. Copper, silver, and lead are said to be found on this island in large quantities, as well as on other islands in its vicinity. The whole archipelago and mainland here afibrd good and safe harbors ; the Canada side of the lakes being greatly favored in this respect. T^i .;i;-t?*c^t ,t?T". ;^:mf^- '*:tir ^S^ PORTAGE BOUTE FBOM LAKE SXTPEEIOR TO LAKE '>' WIBTHIPEG, if* ' Starting prom Fort Willum, o. w. '.i Kamintstaquoiah River, emptying into Thunder Bay of Lake Superior, formB the west boundary of Canada proper ; to the north and west lies the extensive region or country known as the Hudson Bay Company's Territory. Here commences the great Portage Road to Rainy Lake, Lake of the Woods, and the Red River settlement ; also, to Lake Winnipeg, Nor- way House, and York Factory, situated un Hudson Bay. At the mouth of the Kam- inistaquoiah stands Fort William. "The banks of the river average in height from eight to twenty feet; the soil is alluvial and very rich. The vegetation all along its banks is remarkably thrifty and luxuri- ant in its appearance. The land is well timbered ; there are found in great abun- dance, the fir-tree, birch, tamarack, poplAr, elm, and the spruce, There is also white pine, but not in great plenty. Wild hops and peas are found in abundance, and Bome bushes and othor flowering shrubs, in many places cover the ban^s down to the very margin of the river, adorning them with beau^, and often filling the air with fragrance. The land on this river up to the Mountain Portage (32 miles), and for a long way back, is unsurpassed in richness and beauty \ij any koids in British Amenpa." The Mouraavn FaU, situated on this stream, is thus described : " We had great difficulty in finding it at first, but, guided by its thundering roar, through such a thicket of brush, thoras and briars, as I never before thought of, we reached the spot from whence it was visible. The whole river plunged in one broad white sheet, through a space not more than fifty feet wide, and over a predpioe higher, by many feet, than the Niagara Falls. The concave sheet comes together about three- fourths of the way to the bottom, from whence the spray springs high into the air, bedewing and whitening the precipi- tous and wild looking crags with which the fall is composed, and clothing with drapery of foam the gloomy pines, that hang about the clefts and fissures of the rocks. The falls and the whole surround- ing scenery, for sublimity, wildness, and novel grandeur, exceeds any thing of the kind I ever saw." — Rev. J. Ryerson's Tour. The danger of navigating these moun- tain streams, in a birch canoe, is greater than many would expect who had never witnessed the force of the current some- times encountered. Mr. Ryerson remarks: " During the day we passed a large num- ber of strong and some dangerous rapids. Several times the canoe, in spite of the most strenuous exertions of the men, was driven back, such was the violence of the currents. On one occasion such was the force of the stream, that though four strong men were holding the rope, it was wrench- ed out of their hands in an instant, and we were hurled down the rapids with violent speed, at the mercy of the foaming waves and irresistible torrent, until fortu- nately in safety we reached an eddy be- low." {See Engraving.) Doa Lake is an expansion of the river, distant by its winding course, 76 miles from its mouth. Othor lakes and expan- sions of streams are passed on the route westward. "The Savan, or Prairib Portaoi, 120 miles from Fort William, by portage route, forms the height of land between liake Superior and tlie waters falling into Lake Winnipeg; it is between three and four miles long, and a continuous cedar swamp from one end to the other, and is therefore very properly named the iSavan or Swamp M '*',i\ ii I: 138 TRIP THROUGH THB LAKBS. If ■ Portage. It lies seven or eight hundred feet above Lakes Superior and Winnipeg, and 1,483 feet above the sea." The Savan River, whicsh is first formed by the waters of the Swamp, enters into the Lac Du Mille, or the Lake of Thou- sands, so called because of the innumer- able islands which are in it. This lake is comparatively nivrrow, being sixty or seventy miles in length. The River Du Mille, the outlet of the Lake, is a precipitous stream, whereon are several portages, before entering into Lac La Pluie, distant 360 miles from Fort William. lUiNT Laks, or Lac la Piuie, through which runs the boundary between the United States and Canada, is a most beau- tiful sheet of water ; it is forty-eight miles long, and averages about ten miles in breadth. It receives the waters flowing we8tw;ard from the dividing ridge separa- ting the waters flowing into Lake Supe- rior. Raivt Lake River, the outlet of the lake of the same name, is a magnificent stream of water; it has a rapid current and averages about a quarter of a mile in width ; its banks are covered with the richest foliage of every hue ; th^ trees in the vicinity are large and varied, consisting of ash, cedar, po|^, oak, birch, and red and white pines; also an abundance of flowers of gaudy and variegated colors.* The climate is also very fine, with a rich soil, and well calculated to sustain a dense population as any part of Canada. The Lake or the Woods, or Lac Du Bois, 68 miles in length, and from fifteen to twenty-five nules wide, is a splendid sheet of water, dotted all over with hun- dreds of beautiful islands, many of which are covered with a heavy and luxuriant foliage. Warm and frequent showers oc- liur here in May and June bringing forth vegetation at a rapid rate, although situated on the 49th degree of north latitude, from whence extends westward to the Pacific PuLUNO A Canok vr Tva Bapipb. T^'1 LAKE BUPKRIOR TO LAKE WINNIPEG. 130 Ocean, th« boundary line between the United Stages and Canada. "There is nothing, 1 think, better cal- culated to awaken the more solemn feelings of our nature, than these noble lalces stud- ded with innumerable islets, suddenly bursting on the traveller's view as he emer- ges firom the sombre forest rivers of the American wilderness. The clear, unrufBed water, stretching out on the horizon ; here intersecting the heavy and luxuriant foli- age of an hundred woody isles, or reflect- ing the wood-dad mountains on its margin, clothed in all the variegated hues of au- tumn ; and there glittering with dazzling brilliancy in the bright rays of the even- ing sun, or rippling among the reeds and rushes of some shallow bay, where hundreds of wild fowl chatter as they feed with varied cry, rendering more ap- parent, rather than disturbing the sotomn stillness of the scene: aU tend to raise the soul from nature up to nature's Ood, and remind one of the beautiful passage of Scripture, * Lord, how marvellous are thy works^ in wisdom hast thou made them aU; the earth is full of thy riches.' " — BaUantyne. The WiNKiPEO BiYEB, the outlet of tho Lake of the Woods, is a rapid stream, of large size, falling into Winnipeg Lake, S miles below Fort Alexander, one of the Hudscm Bay Company's Posts. A great number of Indians resort to the Fort every year, besides a number of families who are residents in the vicinity, here being one of their favorite haunts. Rev. Mr. Ryerson remarks : — " The scenery for many miles around ia strik- ingly beautiful. The dimate for Hud- son's Bay Territory ia here remarkably fine and salubrious,' the land ama^ngly rich and productive. The water in Lakes Lac La Pluie, Lac Du Bois, Winnipeg, 4c., is not deep, and because of their wide sur- face and great shallov/ness, during the summer season, they become exceedingly warm : this ha» a wonderful effect on the temperature of the atmospTTere in the ad- jacent neighborhoods, and no doubt makes the great difference in the climate (or at least is one the principal causes of it), in these parts, to the climate and vegetable productions in the neighborhood of Lake Superior, near Fort William. They grow opring wheat here to perfection, and vege- tation is rapid, luxuriant, and comes to maturity before frosts occur." The whole region of country surround- ing Lake Winnipeg, the Red River coun- try, as well as the Assiniboine and Sas- katchewan country, are all sooner or later destined to sustain a vigorous and dense population. LAKE WIHHIPEG, Situated between 50^ and 66** north latitude, is about 300 miles Icmg, and in several parts more than 60 milM broad ; having an estimated area of 8,600 square miles.* Lake Winnipeg receives the wa* ters of numerous rivers, which, in the aggregate, drain an area of about 400,000 square miles. The Saskatchewan (the riv- er that runs fast) is its most important tributary. The Assiniboine, the Red Riv- er of the North, and Winnipeg River are ita other largest tributaries, altogether dis- charging an inunense amount of water into this great inland lake. It is elevated about 700 feet above Hudson Bay, and discharges its surplus waters through Nisison River, a large and magnifioent stream, which like the St. Lawrence is filled with islanda and numerous rapids, *La.kk Baikal, the most extensive body of fresh water on the Eastern Continent, situatt'd in Southern Siberia, between lat 61" and 66° north, is aboQt 870 miles in lensth, 45 miles average width, and about 900 miles in circuit: being somewhat larger than I^ke Winnipeg in area. Its depth in some places is very great, being in part surrounded by high mountainB. The Y«ni' Mt, its outlet, tlows north into the Arctic Ocean. it-' 'I •ii i I ! 1^6 1 ,iH TRIP THROUGH THK I.AKKS. ^7.1 ^m i s 11 preventing navigation entirely below Gross Lake. Lakes Manitohah and Winnipegosis, uni- ted, arc nearly of the same length aa Win- nipeg, lying 40 or 50 miles westward. Nearly the whole country between Lake "Winnipeg and its western rivals is occu- pied by smaller lakes, so that between the valley of the Assiniboine and the eastern shore of Winnipeg fully one-third is under water. These lakes, both large and small, are shallow, and in the same water area show much uniformity in depth and coast line. e;. TABLE OT DISTAKCES, ''^^^ ■— i:**r.:/-.> Frbm i^ort Wtlllam, situated at tbe Mouth or tbi Kahistaquozah ^ ^jEivBE, to Fort Alexander, at thb head of Lake Wdtnipeo. Fort Willi Alt. . ..v ..'..'. * . . iv ... t .;.........«. . ..... ................ Parapliue Portage 25 * '~ (8 Portages) ■ "■ ^^ wj?:r;n ■ ■ , •■ i i.'O,^ ;■..•) ?/ f --^.x^vU, n ^ ',.:); j:*!,:..) «.,.: Ddg Portage .............:...........• 6i 76 (6 Portages) 'Sayan or Swamp Portage* 64 130 Thousand Islands Lake , 57 187 (2 Portages) Sturgeon Lake, , . . 71 258 iVW ^4 Portages) '• J*i'OiMw:-» -..j ••>>,;;■ <>• ^i;■;,i•^,';.Mt^8,}l^•. -■:. -■'•1- ViiV.' rin^-i:,-. LiicLaOroix i.^^;l.. 25 283 '*^ Portages) * Kft :> Lake 40 323 BaL , Lake River 38 361 Lake of the Woods 83 444 Rat Portage 68 512 Fort ALBZAiri>sB 126 637 -■%•!>«•.;*..-•*..>- FroiB F AHB STEAMBOAT B0UTB8 fWitom BnlRftlo to Niagara Fallt^ Toronto, me. Thb most usual mode ot oonttsyance from Buffido to the Falls of Niagara, and thence to Lake Ontario, or into Canada, is by the Buffalo, Niagara Falls and Lewiston BaUroad, 28 miles in length. It runs through Tonawanda, II miles; Niagara Falls, 22 miles; Suspension Bridge, 24 miles, connecting with the Great Western Railway of Oanada, and terminates at Lewiston, the head of navigation on Ni- agara Riyer, 28 miles. American and Canadian steamers of a large class leave Lewiston several times daily, for different ports on Lake Ontario and the St. Lawrence River. xhere is also another very desirable mode of conveyance, by Steamboat, de- scending the Niagara River, ft'om Bui/alo to Chippewa, 0. W., thence by the Erie and Ontario Railroad, 17 miles in length; passing in full view of the Falls, to the Clifton House, three miles below Chippe- wa; Suspension Bridge, five miles; Queen- ston, eleven miles, terminating at Niag- ara, C. W., thirty-five miles from Buffalo. As the steamboat leaves Buffalo, on the latter route, a fihe view may be ob- taiied of Lake Erie and both shores of Nit^p^ara River. On the Canada side, the first objects of interest are the ruins of old Fort Erie, captured by the Ameri- cans, July Hd, 1814. It is situated at the foot of the lake, opposite the site of ,a strong fortress which the United States ' •. . «) t, i ^ . i • » ft * • government have recently erected for the protection of the river and the dty of Buffalo. Waterloo, G. W., three miles belo^ Buffalo and opposite Black Rock (now i part of Buffalo), with which it is connect ed by a steam-ferry, is handsomely situ ated on the west side of Niagara River, which is here about half a mile wide. The Buffalo and Lake Hwon BaUroad runs from Fort Erie, near Waterloo, to Paris, C. W., where it connects with the Great Western Railway of Canada. It is now completed to Goderich, 0. W., lying on Lake Huron.'^^*'^'"'' " ^"^^'^'^' Grand IsLAin>, belonging to the Uni- ted States, is passed on the right in de- scending the river. It is a large and val- uable tract of good land, abonnding with white oak of a superior quality. Navy Island, belonging to the British, is next passed, lying within gun-shot of the mainland. This island obtained great notoriety in the fall and winter of 1837-8, when it was occupied by the " Patriots," as they were styled, during the troubles in Canada. The Steamer Cardine was destroyed on the night of December 29tb, 1837, while lying at Schlosser's Landing, on the American sho*^, having been en- gaged in transporting perscms to and from the island, which was soon after evacuated. .:'.[" '''V'' ''" '" '^''''•:'- Opposite Navytsliind, on the Ck^^a side, near Chippewa batde-ground, is the house in which Captain Usher resided, when murdered in 1838. It is supposed he fell by the hands of some of the de- luded patriots, having been shot by a se- cret foe, while in his own house. Chippewa, 20 miles below Buffalo, and two mths above the Falls, is on the west side of Niagara River, at the mouHi of a ■^AU m ! • I(, ' 144 TRIP THROUGH THE LAHiCS. creek of the same name, which is naviga- ble to Port E,obinson, some eight or ten miles west ; the latter place being on the line of the Welland Canal. The village of Chippewa contains a population of about 1,000 souls. Steamboats and lake craft of a large size are built ac this place for the trade of Lake Erie and the Upper Lakes. It has obtained a place in history on account of the bloody battle which was fought near it in the war of 1812, between the United States and Great Britain. The battle was fought on the 5th of July, 1814, on the plains, a short distance south of the steamboat landing. The American forces were commanded by Major-General Jacob Brown, and the British, by Major-General Eiall, who, af- ter an obstinate and sanguinary fight, was defeated, with considerable loss. At Chippewa conunences the railroad extending to Niagara, at the mouth of the . river, a distance of 17 miles. Steamboats continue the line of travel from both ends of this road, thus furnishing an interesting and speedy conveyance between Lakes Erie and Ontario. On ariving in the vicinity of the Palls OF KiAaABA, the cars stop near the Clifton HousA, situated near the ferry leading to the American side. The site of this house , was chosen as giving the best view of both the American and Canadian or Horse-Shoe Falls, which are seen from the piazzas and front windows. This is the most interest- ing approach to the Falls. In addition to the Falls, there are other points of attraction on the Canada side of the river. The collection of curiosities at the Museum, and the Camera Obscura, which gives an exact and beautiful, though miniature image of the Falls, are well wor- thy of a visit. The Burning Spring, two xnUes above the Falls, is also much fre- quented; and the rides to the battle- grounds in this vicinity makes an exhila- rating and very pleasant excursion. For farther desonptioa of Falls, see page 149. Drummondsvillb, one mile west of the Falls, and situated on Lundy's Lane^ is celebrated as the scene of another san- guinary engagement between the Ameri- can and Britis^h forces, July 25, 1814. The following is a brief, though correct account of the engagement : " On the after- noon of the above day, while the Ameri- can army was on their march from Fort George toward Ihrt Erie, ascending the west bank of the river, their rear-guard, under the immediate command of Gen. Scott, was attacked by the advanced guard of the British army, under G«n, Riall, the British having been reinforced after their defeat at Chippewa, on the 6 th of the same month. This brought on a general conflict of the most obstinate and deadly character. As soon as attacked, Gen. Scott advanced with his division, amounting to about :i,()00 men, to the open ground facing the heiglits occupied by the main British army, where, were planted several heavy pieces of can- non. Between eight and nine o'clock in the evening, on the arrival of reinforcements to both armios, the battle became general and raged for several hours, with alternate success on both side^: each army evin- cing the most determined bravery and re- sistance. The command of the respective forces was now assumed by Major Gen. Brown and Lieut.-Geu. Drummond, each having under his command a well-dLsci- plined army. The brave (American) Col. Miller was ordered to advance an4 seiz? the artillery of the British, which h effected at the point of the bayonet in the most gallant manner. Gen. Riall, of the EngUsh army, was captured, and the pos- session of the battle-ground contested un- til near midnight, when 1,700 men being either killed or wounded, the conflicting armies, amounting altogether to about 6,000 strong, ceased the deadly conflict, and for a time the bloody field was left un- occupied, except by the dead and wounded When thfl British discovered that the Americans had eiicamped one or two miles 5t of the Lane, is ler san* Ameri- 514. I correct ;he after- Ameri- 'om Fort iing the ir-guard, of Gen. ed guard Riall, the fter their the same il conflict iharacter. advanced lOut :i,000 le heights y, where, !S of can- )'clock in jrceraents e general , alternate rcay ovin- ry and re- respective [ajor Gen. lond, each well-dLsci- rican) Col. ancj seizp which h met in the all, of the dthe pos- itested un- aien being conflicting to about ly conflict, van left un- i wounded, •d that the t.t.womilea ! i I ir. .#■ '>'U Bbook'b Mo^OMS^'•• — Quefcuston Beights. •» .:: ■1«IS-.c;v.ra.?ieiv;;^i^ _.„ Bv JTB FROM BUFFALO TO NIAOAHA FALLS, BTO. 145 mm^ y i;^.. i ■ VV-o iry of the late Major-Qeneral Sir Isaac Buock, K. B. Provisional Lieut -Crovernor and OommandMr of the Forc«,8 in thia Province, Whose remains arv deposited in the vault beneath. Opposing the invading enemy He fell in action, near the Ileignta, OH tho 18th October, 1812, In the 43d year of his age. Revered and lamented by the people whom he governe- His life had been devoted. The last words of Major-General Brock, when he fell mortaUy wounded by a mus- ket-shot through the left breast, were, " Never mind, my boys, the death of on© man — I have not long to live." Thus departed ono of the many noble spirits tliat were s{\crificed on this frontier during tiie war of 1812. Tho village of Niaoarv is advantage- ously situated on the Canada side, at tho eutruuce of the river into Lake Ontario, directly opposUe Fort Niagara^ on the American side. It contains about 3,000 inhabitants, a court-house and jail; one Kplscopal, one Predbyterian, one Motho- ,: I '^ ; 1. f \ I '■' ' i ^ u ^ )■■ !U *^1(. j!1«^f_J^W^','|T >| 14& ] 'iif'.' TRIP THROUGH THE LAKES. V ^ jj-f^jy ' dist, and one Roman Catholic Churcli ; 6 hotels and taverns ; and 20 stores of dif- ferent kinds; also, an extensive locomo- tive and car factory. This is the most noted place in Canada West for building steamboats and other craft navigating Lake Ontaria Here is a dockyard with a marine railway and foundry attached, capable of making machinery of the lar- gest description, and giving employment to a great number of men. It is owned by the "Niagara Dock Company." Steamers leave daily for Toronto, etc. FoBT Qbobok, situated & short distance south or up-stream from the mouth of the river, is now in ruins. This was the scene of a severe contest in 1813, in which the Americans were victorious. A new fort has been erected on the point of hmd at the mouth of the river, directly opposite old Fort Niagara on the American side. The new fortification is called Fort Massa- sartga. The whole frontier on the Canada side, from Port Gteorge to Fort Erie, opposite Bufifalo, was occupied by the American army in 1814, when occurred a succession of batdes of the most determined and bril- liant character. r .■ NIAOAEA BIVEE, ITS RAPIDS, FALLS, ISLANDS, AND ROMANTIC BOENBBT. *' Majestic stream I what river rivals thee, Thou child of many lakes, and sire of one-^ Tiakes that claim kindred with the all-circling sea — Laree at thj; birth as when thy race is run t Against what great obstructions has thou won Thine august way — the rock -formed mountain - plain Has opened at thy bidding, and the steep Bars not thy passage, for the ledge in vain Stretches across the channel — thou dost Itap Sublimely down the height, it>nd urge again Thy rock-embattled course on to the distant maln.^ This most remarkable and romantic stream, the outlet of Lake Erie, through which flows all the accumulated waters of the Upper Lakes of North America, very appropriately forms the boundary between two great countries, the British province of Upper Canada on the one side, and the State of New York, the " Empire State" of the Union, on the opposite aide. In its whole course, its peculiar character is quite in keeping with the stupendous Cataract from which its principal interest is derived. The amount of water passing through this channel is immense ; from a compu- tation which has been made at the out- let of Lake Erie, the quantity thus dis- charged is about twenty millions of cubic feet, or upwards of 600,000 tons per minute, all of which great volume of water, 20 miles below, plunges over tho Falls of Niagara. The Niagara River commences at Bird Island, nearly opposite the mouth of Buf- falo harbor, and passes by the site of old Fort Erie and Waterloo on the Canada side. At the later place a steam ferry- boat plies across the river to Black Rock, now forming a part of the city of Bufifalo. It is here proposed to con;^truct a railroad bridge across the stream, about 1,800 feet in width. Squaw Island and Strawberry Island are both small islands lying on the Amer- ican side of the stream, near the head of Grand Island. The river is here used in part for the Erie Canal, a pier extending from Squaw Island to Bird Island, forming: a large basin called Black Rock Harbor. Grand Island, attached to Erie Co.. ijs- he scene hich the Dew fort ' land at opposite an side. "t Massa- ida side, opposite Lmerican iccession and bril- ROUTS FROM BUFFALO TO NIAGARA FALLS, E1C. 117 !| ,1 ^1 e. J 4? I i i^%i ^ V 'i'i % compu- the out- thua dis- of cubic tons per )lum0 of over tho s at Bird h of Buf- ;e of old Canada vm ferry- ck Rock, f Buffalo, railroad 800 feet Y Island le Amer- head of used in xtending forminj.: Harbor. rio Co.. N. Y., is a lar^ and important body of land, about ten miles long from north to south, and seven miles wide. This island is partly cleared and cultivated, while tiio larger portion is covered with a large growth of oaks and other forest trees. The ship or steamboat channel runs along the bank of Grand Island to nearly opposite Chippewa, where the whole stream unites before plunging over the Falls of Niagara, being again separated at the head of Goat Island. From this point the awe-struok traveller can scan the quiet waters above, and the raging rapids below, preparing to plunge over the Cataract Oayuoa Island and Bugkhormt Island are small bodies of land belonging to the United States, situated immediately be> low Grand Island. Navy Island, lying opposite the vil- lage of Chippewa, 18 miles below the head of the* river, is a celebrated island belonging to the Canadians, having been taken possession of by the sympathizing patriots in 18.37, when a partial rebellion occurred in Upper and Lower Canada. Ton'awaxda, 11 miles below Buffalo, is situated at the mouth of Tonawanda Creek, opposite Grand Island. The Erie Carialhere enters the creek, which it fol- lows for several miles on its course to- ward Lookport. A railroad also runs to Lockport, connectmg with the New York Central Railroad^ extending to Albany. A ship canal is proposed to be construct- ed from Tonawanda to some eligible point on Lake Ontario, thus forming a rival to the Welland Canal of Canada. Schlossbr's Landing, two miles above Niagara Falls village, is a noted steam- boat landing, opposite Chippewa, from whence the steamer Caroline was cut adrift by the British and destroyed, by being precipitated over the Falls during the Canadian rebellion, December 29th^ 1837. Thb Rapids.— Below Navy Island, be- tween Chippewa and Schlosser, the river is nearly three miles in width, but soon narrows to one mile, when the Rapids commence, and continue for about one mile before reaching the edge of the preci- pice at the Horse-Shoe Fall. At the commencement of the Rapids, "the bed of the river declines, the chan- nel contracts, numerous large rocks heavo up the rolling surges, and dispute tho passage of the now raging and foaming floods. The mighty torrent leaping down successive ledges, dashing over opposing elevations, hurled back by ri<^s, and repelled from shores and islands — plunge ing, boiling, roaring — seems a mad wQ- demess of waters striving against its better fate, aQd hurried on to destruction by its own blind and reckless impetuosi- ty. Were there no cataract, these Rapids would yet make Niagara the wonder of . the world." Iris, or Goat Island, commences near the head of the Rapids, and extends to the precipice, of which it forms a part, separating the American FaU from the Canadian or Horse-Shoe Fall. It is about half a mile in length, eighty rods wide, and contains over sixty acres of arable land, being for the most part covered with a heavy growth of forest trees of a variety of speoies, and native plants and flowers. A portion of the island, however, has been cleared off, and a garden enclosed, in which are some excellent fruit-trees, and a variety of native and foreign plants and flowers, and a flsh-pond. Tlie island is remarkably cool, shady, and pleanant, and is an object of unceasing admiration from year to year. Comfortable seats and arbors are placed at the most interesting points, where the visitor can sit at ease and enjoy the beautiful and sublime views presented to his sight— often entranced by a deafening roar of mighty waters in their descent, accompanied by diang' ing rainbows of the most gorgeous do- scription. m ' ' i ^! i 'it- ! !i-r I i t \ t \ t ! ;'*',> .; ■s ■■'■'■: j ' ' v.- y' < 148 ( TRIP THROUGH THE LAKES. r 3* ' "i t ' ■*! '^1 ■•;!l Niagara. WEITTJIK BY LYDIA H. SIGOURNBY. Flow on forever, in thy glorious robe Of terror and of heuuty ; God hath set His rainbow on thy forehead, and the cloud Mantles around thv feet, and He doth trire Thy voice of thunder power to speak of Him Eternally ; bidding the lip of man Keep silence, and upon thy rocky altar Pour ince^nse of awe-struck praise. Goat Island Bridge.— The Niagara Falls Gazette gives the following descrip- tion of this new structure : " This bridge across tlie east branch of the Niagara River is situated in the Rap- ids, about sixty rods above the Cataract, on the site of the old wooden bridge. It is 360 feet long, and consists of four arches of ninety feet span each, supported be- tween the abutments of three piers. The piers above water are built of heavy cut stone, and are twenty-two feet long and six feet wide, tapering one foot in the height. The foundations are formed of foot-square oak timber, strongly fVamed and bolted together in cribs, filled with stone, and covered with timber at the sur- face of the water. These timber-founda- tions are protected against wear and iiyury from ice by heavy plates of iron, and be- ing always covered with water, will be as durable as the stone. "The superstructure is of iron, on the plan of Whipple's iron-arched bridge. The whole width is twenty-seven feet, affording a double carriage-way of sixteen and a lialf feet, and two foot-ways of five and a fourth feet each, with iron railings. The arches are of cast iron, and tlie chords, suspenders, and braces of wrought iron. All the materials used in the con- struction are of the best quality, and the size and strength of all the parts far beyond what are deemed necessary in bridges exposed to the severest tests. "This substantial and beautiful struc- ture, spanning a branch of tliis muje.i- tic river in the midst of the rapids, and overlooking the cataract, is worthy of the site it occupies, and affords another in- stance of the triumph of human ingenuity over the obstacles of nature. " The islands connected by this bridge with thei American shore are the property of Messrs. Porter, and constitute the most interesting features in the scenery sur- rounding the cataract. This bridge has been erected by them to facilitate com- munication with these interesting locali- ties not otherwise accessible." This is a toll-bridge, eve»y foot passen- ger being charp'ed 25 cents for the season, or single crossing. There are upward of thirty Islands and islets in the Niagara River or Strait, above the cataract. Most of those not described are small, and scarcely worthy of enumer- ation, although those immediately contigu- ous to Groat Island form beautiful objects in connection with the rushing and mighty waters by which they are surrounded. Bath Island, Brig Island, Ghapin^s Island, and Bird Island, all situated immediately above the Americau Fall, are reached by bridges. When, on Goat Island, ttirning to the right toward the Falls, the first object of interest is Hogg^s Back, a point of land facing the American Fall,— Bridge to Ad- ington Island immediately above the Cave of the Winds, 1 60fe6t below. Sam. Patch' s Point is next passed on the right, from which he took a fearful leap some years since. Biddle's Stairs descend to the water's edge below and the Cave of the Winds, which are annually visited by thousands of visitors. Terrapin Bridge and Terrapin Tower afford a grand view of the Canadian or Horse-Shoe Fall and Rapids above the Falls. Three Sister Isl- ands are contiguous to Goat Island, on tho American side. Passing around Goat Isl- and toward the south, a grand view ia afforded of the river and rapids above the Canadian and American FaUs. .1 Is, and of the ler in- ;enuity bridge roperty le most ry 8ur- ige has e com- ; locali- passen- season, ads and t, above 3scribed enumer- contigu- L objects 1 mighty ^ounded. i Island, lediately tched by g to the bject of of land to Ad- the Cave Patch's ;ht, from oae years to the Cave of isited by Bridge and vievsr Fall and Sister Isl- id, on the Goat Isl- l view is ibove the X^l^'- ' --i '3 .>. •.^'. If ' ^^ ! ' J'.' '-Jf".. * .,l^ i' ' • r '. . - 1/ . -•■•• ■,;i. ,, ; ' ' i fctnvfl « STTSFEHSIOSr BRIDGE i i .f AN1> THB Cataract aMd Rapids c1 Niagara* To give the reader some idea of the grandeur of this triumph of engineering BkiU— -THE SUSPENSION BRIDGE— we copy the following article from a lato Buffflo paper: AN ENGINEER'S MONUMENT. Spanning the chasm of the Niagara Riyer, uniting the territories of two differ- ent Governments, and sustaining the unin- terrupted railroad traffic of the Provinces of Canada with the Unitf^d States, 250 feet above a flood of water which man has never been able to ferry, stands the monu- ment of John A. Roebling. The Niagara Railway Svspension Bridge, is the grandest and the mosL distinguishing achievement of Art in this world. It is the proudest, it is the most beautiful, and will prove to be the most enduring monument anywhere set up on this continent. Regard this wonderful product of engi- neering skill. Its span is 822 feet. Yet an engine, tender and passenger car, load- ed with men, and weighing altogether 47 tons, depress the long floor in the centre but 5^ inches. The Bridge, loaded with a loaded freight train, covering its whole length, and weighing 326 tons, is deflected in the middle only 10 inches. This ex- treme depression is perceptible only to practised eyes. The slighter changes of level require to be ascertamed with in- struments. Delicftte as lace work, and seemingly light and airy, it hangs there high, between heaven and the boiliiig flood below, more solid than the earthbeds of the a^iacent railways. Tho concussions of fast moving trains are sensibly felt miles oflTthroivrh solid rocky soil. In cities lo- comotives shake entire blocks of stone dwellings. The waters of the Cayuga Lake tremble under the wheels of tho express trains, a mile away from the bridg-e. But a freight train traversing John A, Roebling's Monument, at the speed of five miies an hour, commuuicates no jar to passengers walking upon the carriage way below. The land cables of the bridge do not tremble under it — the slight concussions of the superstructure do not go over the summits of the towers This last fa'^^ in the stiffness of the great work is of much importance. It furnishes a guarantee of the durability of the ma- sonry. Fast anchored with stone and grouted in solid rock cut down to the depth of twenty-five feet, the great cables are immovable by any mechanical force incidental to the use of the briclge, or the natural influences it will be subject to. The ultimate strength of these cables is 12,400 tons. The total weight of the ma- terial of the bridge, and of the trafBc to which it will ordinarily be subjected is 2,262 tons, to sustain which the Engineer has provided in his beautiful and scientific structure, a strength of 1 2,400 tons. He demonstrates, too, that while the .strength c^'the cables is nearly sii times as great as their ordinary tension, th>t strength WILL NEVER BE IMPAIRED BY VIBRATION. Tliis r IS *.he question raised by The De- mocracy, a year ago, which excited such, general, and in instances such angry dis- cussion. Roebling treated our doubts with a cool reason and the stores of au eAtensive engineering experience, which gave us to believe that Art had at last attained to a method of suspending Iron Bridgett for Railroad use, that should en- f 1^! i ROUTF FROM BUFFALO TO NIAGARA FALLS, ETC. 15a i cities lo- of stone Cayuga l8 of the from the raversing t, at the MuuicateB upon the cables of ^ !r it — the rstructure le towers the great furnishes if the ma- stone and vn to the reat cables ileal force ge, or the ubject to. cables is of the ma- traffic to jjccted is Engineer 1 scientific ;ons. He 3 strength as great STREyOTH ibration. The De- cited sucb. angry dis- ir doubts )res of an ice, which ad at last iding Iron should en- tirely obviate the objections to them felt by most of the Iron- Masters of the United States. Ho has since that demonstrated it in a most wonderful structure. There arc in the bridge 624 " suspend- ers," each capable of sustain* ng 30 tons — and all of sustaining 18,720 tons. The weight they have ordinarily to support is only 1,000 tons. But the Engineer has .skilfully distributed the weight of the- b.xrdens, by the means of "girders" and " t. usees." These spread the 34 tons heft cf a Icccrr.ctl-."^ <»nd tender over a length of 200 feet. How ample is J^his provision made for defective iron or sudden strains 1 The Anchor Chains are composed of 9 links, each 7 feet long, save the last, which is 10 feet. The lowest link is made of 7 bars of iron, 7 inch by 1 k. It is se- cured to a cast iron anchor plate 3^ inch;)s thick, and 6 feet 6 'nches square. The other links are equally strong. The iron used was all made from Pennsylvania char- coal, Ulster county, N Y., and Salisbury Fig, and can be depended upon for a strength of 64,000 poimds to the square inch. The central portions of the anchor plates, through which th^ links pass is 12 inches thick. The excavations in the sohd rock were not vertical They iaclined from the river. The rock upon which the work may rely on the New York side of the chasm is 100 feet long, 70 feet wide, and 20 feet deep. It weighs 160 pounds to the cubic foot, and presents a resistance of 14,000 tons, exclusive of the weight of the superincumbent masonry and embankment. The To WEES are each 15 feet square at the base, 60 feet high above the arch, anvill be required to crush the top course. There are 4,000 tons' weight in each of the towers on the New York side. The cables are 4 in number, 10 inche» in diameter, and composed each of 3,640 small No. 9 wires. Sixty wires form one square inch of solid section, making the solid section of the entire cable 60.40 square inches, wrapping not included. These immense masses of wire are put together so that each individual wire per- forms its duty, and in a strain all work together. On this, Mr. RosBLiNa, who is a moderate as well as a modest man, feels justitied in speaking with the word PERFECT. Each of the large, cables is composed of four smaller ones, called "strands." Each strand has 520 wires. One is placed in the centre. The rest are plased around that. These strands were manufactured nearly in the same position the cables now occupy. The preparatory labors, such as oiling, straightening, spli- cing, and reehng, were done in a long shed on the Canada side. Two strands were made at the same time, one for each of the two cables under process of con- struction. On the completion of one set, temporary wire bands were laid on, about nine inches apart, for the purpose of keepinc^ the wires closely united, and se- curing their relative position. They were then lowered to occupy their permanent position in the cable. On completion of the seven pairs of strands, two platform carriages were mounted upon the cables, for laying on a continuous wrapping, by means of Roebling's patent wrapping machines. During this process the whole mass of wire was again saturated with oil and pamt, which, together with the wrapping, will protect them efifectually against all oxidation. Five hundred tons of this wire is English. American man- ufacturers did not put in proposals. That used was remarkably uniform, and most carefully made. The law deduced from large use of wire rope in Pennsylvania, is, that its durabili- ty depends upon its usage. It will last much longer under heavy str^s moving i 'ill, \i 154 ■•^H'' two publio-houseg, tive stores, and two flouring mills, besides other maniifactur- ing ostablishments. A railroad is uearly completed, extending from this place to Niagara Falls, being a continuation of the Ganandaigua and Niagara Falls BAilroad, now completed to the Suspension Bridge. A. ferry plies from Youngstown to the vil- lage of Niagara on the Canada side of the river, here about half a mile in width. This is the first lauding, on the American side of the river, aft-sr leaving the broad waters of Lake Ontario. Fort Niagara ia situated at the mouth of the river. •'JfS ■*■ 1 ' L. 'it ■?iiai*-'- >i Route aroimd liake Ontario. Miles. Kingston, 0. "W., to Toronto, via Grand Think Railway '. 160 Toronto to Hamilton, C. W., Toronto and Hamilton R. R. 38 Hamilton to Suspension Bridge, via Great Western R. R. 43 Suspension Bridge to Rochester, N. T., via N. T. Central Railway 76 Rochester to Oswego, N. Y., by stage 70 Oswego to Richland, N. Y., " ^ 35 Richland to Cape Vincent, via Watertown and Rome R. R 55 Cape Vincent to Kingston, C. "W., via Wolfe Island 12 %QX^mm ... .- 489 Note. — ^The extreme length of Lake On- tario is 190 miles, from Cape Vincent to Hamilton, C. W.: being about four times ;,.--!^i-j£*«7-lii,ttSii/sJf'i i;;-. r m. "..= '/..? ' ■; .. f^>;.tl-lWMf ';.;!. '^ u-;», '»<./ . .;,r .,, ;, .. , ■\\.tiMA'-i a ■■:';■ ,< = .^M- ■t!r:sm ■-'■I ■• ■ -i. • ,,,- "Hihi-ii :'&'<> i'.'f:!)'." ,i^i.t!;v '.);.<; '.<, t _-'^;.,>.' , ,, , :..r ^.' H.i%l . .',- viiii -v.'ii-i- I ■'■;'': . :•■■ ■■:.■;;.•,■ ,. as long as its greatest width. The circuit of the water is estimated at 480 miles. — Sec Lake Erie, page 14. ''T ie canals. It receives numerous streams, b