I ( PRICE 25 Cts. CARREL'S ILLUSTRATED QUIDE&MAP I OF Que BE c SHOWING ELECTRIC RAILWAY CIRCUIT. DAILY TBLEORAPH Print. m "-v^^r- *- ,r^ /. / ^•/•/•"^^•iL .Quebec's Palatial Hotel The Chateau Frontenac. *hir- Magnificent New Hotel, stands at the Eastern end of the cT^V- famous Duflferin Terrace, commanding delightful views of •J ^ the St. Lawrence as far as the eye can reach, d«. wn past the I&le of Orleans, across to I^vis and beyond, un stream to Sillery, and to the left, the country along the beautiful valley of the St. St. Charles River. The grandeur of the scenery is indescribable ; ii is matchless in diversity and charming in effect. No grande' site for such a structure could be found on the continent. Address: J. A. BELIVEAU, Manager Chateau Frontenac, Quebec. J •^ .. .GUIDE... TO THE City of Quebec DESCRIPTIVE AND ILLUSTRATED ..WITH MAP.. Dedicated to His Woeship S. N. Parent, Mayor of Quebec, and the City Covncif by the Author > Q U E B EC Published by FRANK CARREL DAILY TELEGRAPH OFFICE 1899 Fannually attracted to our historic city, which has preserved so *nuch of the flavor of its romantic antiquity, while at the same time keeping pace with the march of modern progress. Our unique Dufferin Terrace has been extended, our fortifications and public promenades improved and our hotel facilitits increased by the erection of the magnificent Chateau Frontenac and the enlargement and modernizing of the Hotel Victoria. These great hotels, which are second to no others at the present day, head the list in the matt3r of local hotel aocoramodation, but we have also several min^r, but comfortable houses, so that old Quebec can now boast that it is up to the standard of the age and fully equal to the requirements of the travelling public. With my best wishes for your success. Believe me, Sir, to be yours very faithfully, S. N. PARENT, Mayor of Quebec. Quebec, 11th May, 1898. ♦ « INTRODUCTORY ♦ ♦ ^IN jT has been said that "good wine need>:? do bush. *' Equally so, does an introduction to the ancient and historic city of Quebec, with its majestic memories of mystery, romantic adventure, victory and defeat, seem unnecessary. The very mention of its name evokes a flood of thrilling emotions. The grandeur of its site, the wonderful beauty of ?ts scenery and the strange romance of its checkered history, all combine to make it one of the most unique and famous of cities, with a renown that is world wide. . . Whether viewed as the cradle of New France and of the mighty civilization which now extends from the Atlantic to the Pacific or as the great military strong- hold, for the mastery and possession of which so many hostile hosts have battled, its attractions for the intel- ligent tourist and traveller are such as to invest it with a charm and an aureole of interest peculiarly its own and without parallel on any other spot of earth. It is, in fact, a unique city, standing alone as a sort of his- torical hyphen or bond between the days that are and « § CARREUS GUIDE TO QUEBEC the days gone by, which cannot be duplicated either in the Old World or the New. From its lofty cliff of Cape Diamond and from under its grey old walls, the first explorers and pioneers of what is now the granary of the world went forth into the unknown wilderness. From this antique city also departed the first mis- sionaries, carrying the cross of salvation to distant tribes and nations. But that which must forever give Quebec its chief claim to the attention of the traveller is its historical battle field, for it is impossible to behold it and reflect upon the momentous consequences of Mont- calm's defeat and Wolfe's victory without feeling all the influence of the spirit of the scene. During the 'three centuries which have elapsed since its foundation in 1608 by the illustrious Samuel de Cham plain, Quebec has accumulated a history rich in material for the philosopher, the poet and the romancer and among the records, associations and scenes thus brought together, the visitor, if so inclined, may find endless fields for research, observation and intellectual delight. Unfortunately the majority of tourists nowadays do not seem to realize or appreciate this truth. In fact, they do not see Quebec, even wlien they come to visit it expressly for the purpose. They merely skim the 8 CARNEVS GUIDE TO (QUEBEC surface, so to speak, and more than one half of its beauties, as well as of the contents of its rich historic storehouse, remain a sealed book to them. Inspired with the restless spirit of the age, they come and go almost with lighting speed and imagine that they have seen all that is worth being seen in Quebec when they have " done " a few of its principal sights. But there never was a greater mistixke committed. Quebec is no prosaic modern town. It is a city to be once thoroughly seen and then for ever delightfully re- membered. But this cannot be done even superficially in twenty -four hours. It takes a much longer time to get acquaintad with all its beauties, and all its manifold objects of historic or legendary interest. It is only to the visitor so disposed that all the memory-haunted scenes of i's mighty and glorious past unroll them- selves. In fact, every stone in the walls of Quebec has a history and every spot of ground is sanctified by undying souvenirs. Almost every building in its an- tique and tortuous streets, still redolent of the religious and military history of early Canada, has a story to tell, and hardly a foundati*on can be upturned without disclosing some relic of bloody war in the shape of rusty cannon balls, muskets and swords, mingled with the arrows and tomahawks of the red-man. It is CARRE us GUIDE TO QUEBEC haunted, peopled, so to speak, by the spirits of the past ; dead memories of departed glory arise on all sides and like ghosts, even at midday, present themselves to all who care to evoke them. In and out among the angles and bastions of its hoary ramparts still flit the shadows of the great men who have left such indelible marks upon the history of the New Wold by their heroism as soldiers, their daring as explorers or their zeal and self- denial as missionaries and pioneers of Christianity and civilization. From every nook and cranny of the won- derful old place, their spectral faces peer out at the visitor and impress him with respect, if not with awe^ for the solemnity of his sourroundings. One by one, their figures materialize again : Jacques Cartier, the dis- coverer of Canada, Champlain, the founder of Quebec, Bishop Laval, Erontenac hurling defiance at Phipps from the mouths of his cannon, I^a Salle, Marquette, Joliette, La Verandrye, bold and successful explorers, jDe Breboeuf and Lallemant, martyrs for their faith, the ! infamous Bigot and the noble Montcalm, victorious j Wolfe, chivalrous De Levis, Montgomery and Arnold, Guy Carleton, Elgin and hundreds, nay, thousands I of others, whose names are forever linked with the [history not only of Quebec and Canada, but of all Lmerica and whose most enduring monuments are 10 CARREL'S GUIDE TO QUEBEC to be looked for in the conquest of the New World from savagery to Christianity and civilization. Alto- gether, there is not a spot in all America richer in his- ;_^ toric treasure or more lavishly endowed by Nature in the beauty, grandeur and splendor of its surroundings than the quaint old walled city of Quebec, which guards ^ the portal of the great inland waters of the con- tinent and which has not been inaptly termed the " Gibraltar of America " and the " Sentinel City of the St Lawrence." For beauty and pictu- resqueness of scenery, too, Quebec is not surpas- sed even by far famed Naples, whicli it in some respects exceeds. This is affirmed with remarkable unanimity by all the writers of note, who have treated the subject, and they have been many. But one cf these must suffice for the whole. In describing the wondrous charm of the old city's general appearance and environments, he said : " The majestic appearance of Cape Diamond and the fortifica- tions ; the cupolats and minarets, like those of an Eastern city, blazing and sparkling in the sun, the St. John's Gate, demolished in 1897. CARREUS aUIDE TO QUEBEC 11 noble basin lilvO a sheet of purest silver, in which might ride with safety the navies of the world, the graceful meanderings of the river St. Charles, the nu- merous village spires on either «i(le of the St. Lawrence, the fertile valley dotted witli tlie picturesque habitant liouses, the distant Falls of Moutmoiency, the park-like scenery of Point Levis, ihe l)eauteons Isle of Orleans, the grim purple mountains, the barriers to the north, form a picture which it is no exaggeration to say, is un- surpassed in any part of the world." Indeed, looking down over the city, with its strange confusion of build- ings, all cast, as it were, at random, upon the declivity of the mountain and tumbling down in wild confusion to the shores of the great river below, and gazing be- yond the churches and monuments, the ramparts and gates, the visitor beholds a picture that no pencil can delineate and no poet describe. And when to all these matchless attractions is super- added the crowning one, in the torrid season, of a de- lighted climate tempered by the soft healthgiving breezes of the St. Lawrence and the invigorating air of the North, one is tempted to wonder why so many prefer the glittering whirl and the discomforts of the fashionable spas to a few weeks' sojourn in a place which possesses such multiple attractions and such 12 CARHEfJS aUlDE TO QUEBEC splendid hotel accommodation nowadays as old Quebec and among a people who, with much of the manners and customs and the speecli and dress of a feudal age, still preserve a genuine reverence for the old-fashioned virtue of hospitality, and are never happier than when they are endeavoring to make the stranger feel at home among them. OLD ST. JOHN S GATK. I QUEBEC. >^'#i3SS^;S$S$$$S$ Descriptive and Hlustrated HISTORICAL SKETCH ^Rs TT is three hundred and sixty-six years since Jacques -^ Cartier, a bold mariner of St. Malo, in France, dis- covered Canada, whose name is derived from "Kanata" an Indian word, signifying a "collection of huts. " Two years later, in 15o5, he made a second voyage to the St. Lawrence and became friendly with Donnacona, the Indian chief or ruler of Stadacona, an aboriginal village which occupied part of the present site of Quebec. Stadacona is Algonquin and means " a cros- sing upon floating wood, " referring to the drift wood which frequently blocked the mouth of the St. Charles, and enabled the Indians to cross over it on foot from one side of the bay to the other. No satisfactory ex- planation can be given of the word " Quebec. " By some it is attributed to the exclamation " Quel Bee " 13 14 CARRE L'H HUIDE OF QUEBEC (What a beak) elicited from some of Jacques Carticr'.s followers when the noble promontory of Cape Diamond first greeted their astonished eyes. Others again trace it to a Montagnais origin and say that it comes from " Kepek, " meaning " disembark " or " come ashore, " which was the greeting addressed by the natives to the first French arrivals. But the weight of opinions as to its true derivation inclines to the belief tliat its source is to be looked for in a word common to all the Indian dialects of the time and place, meaning " a narrowing of the river. " As a mutter of fact, too, the St. Law- rence narrows to less than a mile wide opposite the city. Cape Diamond, whose lofty summit is crowned with the present citadel, takes its name from tlie numerous quartz crystals, sparkling like diamonds, which are to be found in its rock formation. Jacques Cartier wintered in the Eiver St. Charles, called by him the Ste. Croix and l»y the Indians the " Cahir Coubat " on account of its serpentine meanderings. His winter quarters were near the present residence of Mr. Parke, llingfield. In 1541 Jacques Cartier made a third voyage, and built a fort at Cap Ilouge just above Quebec and also visited Hochelaga, now Montreal. In 1608 Champlain arrived at Stadacona, and, landing his followers, founded the city of Queljec which has since been besieged five different times. In 1629 Champlain was obliged to deliver up the city and himself and fol- lowers to Sir David Kerkt ; but, by the treaty of St. Germain-en-Laye, Canada was restored to France, and Champlain returned as the governor of the colony. In f ' « Q O «H o » o H M w H CO H o '■ ;fr. 16 CARREVS GUIDE TO QUEBEC .^ - Ov3tober, 169U, Sir William Phipps appeared with a fleet before the city and demanded its surrender,- which the proud Count de Frontenac haughtily refused. After a harmless bombardment, the English fleet retired. In 1711, another English fleet under Sir Hoveden Walker sailed for Quebec, but was almost wholly destroyed by a storm in the Gulf of St. Lawrence. For the last two deliverances the little church in the Lower Town was named Notre-Dame des Victoires. On the 26th June, 1759, Admival Saunders anchored his fleet and transports, with General Wolfe and the English array on board, off the Island of Orleans, then called Isle de Bacchus. The troops landed on the Island on the following day, near the church of St. Laurent, and marched up to the west end, from which they had a view of Quebec, while the French army, under the Marquis de Montcalm, consisting of about 13,000 men, was encamped on the opposite shore of Beauport. General Moncton, with fo^r battalions, occupied the heights of Levis, from wb'cb place he bombarded the cityand laid it in ruinSj^ General Wolfe then crossed to the mainland to the east of the Kiver Montmorency, and on the 31st of July attacked the French, and was defeated, with the loss of 182 killed, 650 wounded and 15 missing. After some delay, caused by the illness of General Wolfe, the English fleet sailed up past the city, and on the morning of the loth September, Wolfe landed his troops at a place below Sillery, now called Wolfe's Cove, and scaled the heights, dislodging CARREL'S GUIDE TO QUEBEC 17 a French guard at the top of the hill, ai)d forming line of battle on the Plains of Abraham, opposite the city, much to the astonishment of Montcalm, who had been encamped at Beauport since the defeat of the British on the 3ist of July, daily expecting another attack. He hastened from there with his army by the bridge of boats across ^he mouth of the Kiver St. Charles, and at ten o'clock both armies were engaged in conflict, which in a short time, ended in the defeat of Montcalm, who was wounded and carried into the city. Wolfe died on the field victorious, and the spot is now marked by a monument erected to his memory. Montcalm died and was buried in the Ursuline Convent. The y French army retreated towards Beauport and afterwards to Cap Rouge, and on the 18th September, the city of Quebec was surrender jd to the English and General Murray remained as governor, with a garrison force of 6,000 men. The fleet with Wolfe's body on board, sailed for England in October. On the 28th April, in the following year, the French army of about ten thousand men, under De Levis, appeared at Ste. Foye, also near Quebec, and were met by the English under General Murray, whose force consisted of about three thousand men ; sickness and . death haying thus gtc^auly reduced their numbers. The English were obliged to retire behind the fortifications of the city, but, on the 15th May, an English fleet, under Commodore Saunders, arrived with men and re- inforcements, when the French army retreated and Canada became an English colony. r -. , '''^ •"» , ,' v- ■'-. 18 C AH BEL'S GUIDE TO QUEBEC In 1775, Quebec was again threatened. General Arnold, with a small army of Americans, arrived on the heigths of L^vis by the Chaudiere valley, and, on the 14th November, landed his forces at Wolfe's Cove, from which they occupied Ste. Foye and St. Eoch. General Montgomery arrived on the 1st December and took command. The garrisonof Quebec, under Colonel MacLean, consisted of about eighteen hundred men. The governor, (kiy Carleton, under the guidance of Mr. Bouchette, the fatlier of the late Joseph Bou- chette, in his lifetime Deputy Survey oi-General of the Province of Quebec, hastened down from Montreal to do his utmost to place the city in safety. Arnold occupied a house on the south side of the St. Charles River, to the east of Scott's bridge, wliile Montgomery established himself in Holland House, on the Ste. Foye road. The American troops were quartered in the suburbs of the city and even in the Intendant's Palace, at the foot of Palace Hill, which was soon reduced to ruins by the fire from the city-. On the 31st December, Montgomery advanced, with seven hundred men, along Champlain street, and came upon a barrier at which was a guard. At the approach of the Americans a cannon was fired with deadly ■ effect, killing Montgomery, his two aids and others, causing the immediate dispersion of the enemy. Arnold at the same time, advanced from St. Eoch, along St. Charles street, expecting to meet Montgomery at the foot of Mountain Hill, and make a combined assault. Arnold occupied the houses on Sault-au-Matelot street, > ,0 c: K o > pi H (—1 M CO M IS M H a I— I I— I ■■^»"-.' 20 C AUREUS GUIDE TO QUEBEC but was ejected from there by a volunteer officer, Mons. Dambourges. Arnold was wounded and taken to the General Hospital. The American loss in killed and wounded was about a hundred; four hundred and twenty-six rank and file surrendered and were placed Tinder guard in the Seminary. The remainder continued to occupy St. Roch till the 6th May, when reinforcements arrived from England and the siege was raised. Mont- gomery's body was taken to a house on St. Louis street, where it was laid out and whence it was next day removed and buried at the foot of the Citadel Hill, from ^vTiich it was, many years afterwards, taken to New York and finally interred with all tlie honors befitting the unfortunate, but gallant dead. In 1837, Quebec was in a state of excitement, caused by the rebellion of that year. > The militia were called out and the city placed under military rule, but nothing of consequence occurred. One night, however, was heard a loud ringing of bells, and it was said that the rebels had risen and would sack the place. The cause of all this alarm was, nevertheless, very simple — the singeing of a pig in the Hotel Dieu Nunnery yard. In the following year, Messrs. Theller and Dodge, two American sympathizers, who were imprisoned with three others in the Citadel, very cleverly effected their escape. Four of them let themselves down from the flagstaff bastion, and Theller and Dodge succeeded in passing through the city gat^es and afterwards reached .the .United States. • ,> CAR REUS GUIDE TO QUEBEC 21 In 1832 and 1834, Quebec was visited by that dread- ful scourge, Asiatic cholera. In the latter year the Castle of St. Louis was destroyed by fire. On the 28th of May, 1845, the whole of St. Roch was also burnt down, and on the 28th June in the same year nearly the whole of St. John and St. Louis suburbs suffered a similar fate. By these two fires over $2,000, UOO worth of property were -destroyed. St. Eoch, St. Sauveur, Champlain and the greater part of Montcalm and St. John's wards have also been since swept by disastrous conflagrations, which have effaced many of the old landmarks that were associated with the adventurous years of the seventeenth century. But those that have passed away have left their romantic history, while those by which they have been replaced and those which remain speak ever impressively of their early associations. In 1846, in the month of June, the theatre, formerly the Riding School, attached to the Castle of St. Louis, and what is now called the Dufferin Terrace, was de- stroyed by fire during a performance, when the build- ing was crowded j and forty-five persons lost their lives. Quebec has often been the prey of extensive confla- gra^'ins. In 1853, the Parliament Houses were burnt down, when a large library and museum were lost. The sittings of the House were then transferred to the church of the Grey Nuns, near Gallows' Hill, which had not then been consecrated. It, however, also fell a prey to the devouring element, and the sittings were after- wards held in the Music Hall in St. Louis street. The ,. \ 22 CARREL'S GUIDE TO QUEBEC Parliament House was afterwards rebuilt in rather a flimsy manner, but was again destroyed by fire in 1882, and sittings are now held in the magnificent new struc- ture, on the Grande Allde. Since the year 1867, the date of Confederation, Quebec bas been the seat of government of the Province of Quebec and the residence of the Lieut;enant-Q-over- nor, whose beautiful place, Spencer Wood, on the St. Louis road, is well worth a visit from the stranger. ...GENERAL ASPECT... ================= T/^IEWED from any standpoint whatever, the general ■^ aspect of Quebec strikes and impresses the be- holder. Standing out upon a natural eminence, whose base is washed by the majestic swell of the St. Law- rence, the dim, huge mass of the great rock and citadel — seemingly one grand fortification — at first absorbs the attention, when approached from the river side, which is always the best way to do so in order to obtain a ^ comprehensive view of the whole beautiful panorama. Then, the details come out one after another. The firm lines of rampart and bastion, the shelving outlines of Cape Diamond, Dufferin Terrace with its light pavil- ions, the Wolfe and Montcalm Monument, the Gover- nor's Garden, the Chateau Frontenac, the slope of Mountain Hill, the conspicuous pile of Laval Univer- sity, the dark serried mass of houses clustering along the foot of the rock and rising gradually up the gentler incline into which these fall away, the quays, the large passenger boats steaming in and out from their wharves, all impress the stranger with the distinctive aspects of th« quaint old city before he lands. But it is when he comes in actual contact with it, when he loiters through its curious streets or when he takes his stand upon its giddy heights that he grasps the full charm of his sur- 28 24 CAR REUS GUIDE TO QUEBEC roiindings and properly eujoys the magnificent pano- rama of beauty which unrolls itself to his eyes, while • he recalls that he is in the most historical spot on the American continent and that wars for centuries, have lashed around the citadel-crowned side of the great rock on which he is perched, and that all around him are the landmarks and traditions of a mighty past. True, in the onward march of prosjress, some of these landmarks, such as the ancient gates of the city, have yielded to the necessities of a later civilization and been replaced by modern and more ornate structures^ which, however, happily preserve Quebec's unique military character. But altogether the appearance of the old city is so strange in this modern age, so quaint and curious in every way, and so remindful of feudal times and of an Old World transplanted to the New that the marked contrast which it presents to all the other cities of America is both delightful and instructive. And, as for scenic beauty, there is hardly in the world a grander outlook than that from the King's Bastion on the citadel or from the Dufferin Terrace below, the favorite pro- menade of the citizens. / HOW TO REACH QUEBEC /\U!EBEC is easily reached by land or water, by rail ^^ or boat. Kailways, equipped with all the con- veniences and luxuries of modern travel, radiate to and from it like the spokes of a wheel. From North, South, East and West, on both sides of the St. Lawrence, these iron bands connect it with the outside world. . From the Atlantic seaboard and the Maritime Pro- vinces, the Intercolonial, one of the finest roads on the continent, places its accommodation at the disposal of the visitor or tourist. From the West and South, the Grand Trunk, with its innumerable branches, feeders and connections with the entire railway system of America, its sumptuous palace and sleeping cars, its rapid express trains and its courteous and obliging offi- cials, makes the journey to the ancient capital of Ca- nada one both of speed and pleasure. Quebec is also the Eastern terminus of the Canadian Pacific, which follows the north shore of the St. Lawrence as the Grand Trunk follows its southern bank, while the Quebec Central affords one of the most direct and expe- ditious routes from and to the New England States. • But the best and most delightful way of all for Uie summer tourist to approach Quebec is by water.' There is not in the wide world to-day a more beautiful river 26 M CAR REVS aUIDk TO QUEBEC than the St. Lawrence, and no more attractive trip than that beginning at Niagara Falls, thence across Lake Ontario to the beautiful city of Toronto, then by- one of the Richelieu and Ontario Navigation Company's palace steamers, down Lake Ontario to Kingston, on CROSSING ST. LAWRENCE IN WINTER. down the far-famed St. Lawrence, winding in and out among the Thousand Islands, shooting the rapids, visit- ing Montreal and Quebec, and capping the climax with the indescribable grandeur of the scenery of the Sa- guenay river. -.*<•>:/ .''i ! ¥'. i V3kV>kV3fcv^V3fc 'i<:ii -1'^ i'.;,.o --* ..HOTEL ACCOMMODATION., - =============================== : 7T] say that Quebec is equal in ])oint of hotel accom- ^ modation to-day to any other American city is no exaggeration whatever. In its Chateau-Frontenac, it possesses a hostelry which, for beauty of site and luxuriousness of appointments, cannot be surpassed anywhere, while in the enlarged and modernized Hotel Victoria, and Turkish and swimming baths, under the able and courteous management of Mr. A. Resther, 27 28 C AUREUS (WIDE TO QUEBEC it offers to the visitor during his stay a home calculated to fully satisfy even the most fastidious and exacting. There are also a number of minor, but comfortable hotels in Quebec, so that in point of accommodation in this important respect the old city can be fairly said to be fully up to the requirements of the times. To the tourist, who extends his trip to the watering places of the Lower St. Lawrence and far- famed Saguenay, the St. Lawrence Hall at Cacouna and the beautiful Tadousac Hotel can be safely recom- mended, the former under the skilful management of its enterprising owners, Messrs. Shipman & Stocking, and its old and experienced caterer, Mr. John Brennan, and the latter under the ownership of the Richelieu and Ontario Steam Navigation Company, the very mention of whose name is a sufficient guarantee for its excellence in eve"y respect. - . CITADEL, FORTIFICATIONS tUS GATES %N QUEBEC is still a fortress, and tliough not now garri- soned by the soldiery of Britain, from the bastions of the citadel, there still floats the red cross banner, the symbol of her po\VL*r. Perhaps the most impressive VIEW FROM THE CITADEL. view of what has been termed the " Gibraltar of Ame- rica " is that from Dufferin Terrace. From this com- manding position, half way up the slope of the historic rock, a fine view is had of the citadel and the fortifica- tions, which enwall it and its forty acres of parade 29 30 CARRE US GUIDE TO QUEBEC ground, bastions and entrenchments on the highest point of Cape Diamond. Approached almost from any quar- ter, however, the fortress of Quebec inspires the visitor with awe. The fortifications are omnipresent. No matter from what point you look towards the ancient city, for eight or ten miles away, they ara there still with their geometry outlined against the sky. Entrance to the ENTRANCE TO THE CITADEL. fortress is gained by what is called the Citadel Hill and the Chain Gate, which gives access to the trenches, and by Dalhousie Gate, which ushers the visitor to the heart of the citadel. Passing across the parade ground, looking out upon the guard room and the officers' and men's quarters, the King's Bastion is gained, where the glorious spectacle, already referred to, bursts upon the delighted spectator. But hardly less fine io the outlook CARRE us GUIDE TO QUEBEC 31 from the other parapets and eminences within the grim fortress. Behind the walls are casemated barracks for the troops, and these are loopholed for musketry so as to command the trenches, while on the summits are cannon commanding all approaches to the city landward, and ori the opposite side are batteries commanding the harbor. Two Armstrong guns are here mounted, as also a huge Palliser. Across the citadel square are the officers' quarters; stores for ammunition, stables and other buildings occupy the western portion of the square. KING S BASTION. The King's Bastion is over three hundred and fifty feet above the St. Lawrence. The French originally had wooden fortifications on Cape Diamond, and spent so much money upon them and upon the other defences of the city, together with what was boodled by Bigot and 82- CARREL'S GUIDE TO QUEBEC his assistants, that Louis XI Vis reported to have asked whether the fortifications of Quebec were built of gold. The first under British rule were constructed by the Eoyal Engineers, and fell into decay at the end of the - century. Their reconstruction dates back to 1823, and was carried out according to plans submitted to and approved by the Duke of Wellington, at a cost of about $25,000,000. The guard rooms are located in the Dal- housie Gate, the barracks are casemated, and many of the other buildings are considered bomb-proof. The details of the alleged private underground passages com- municating with certain locaLules without the fortress are of course, secrets that the military authorities keep to themselves. At the easterly end of the officers' quarters, a substantial row of stone buildings overlooking the river, are the Viceregal quarters, where the Governor- General of Canada and his family reside during a part of the summer season in each year. In the centre of the square, tourists are shown a small brass cannon, captured by the British at Bunker's Hill. To the west of the citadel are the Plains of Abraham, where was fought the decisive battle of 13th September, 1759. Four Mart^llo towers, built in 1812, are to be seen, constructed weak towards the city, so as easily to be destroyed in the event of capture, and strong on the outer sides, having cannon mounted. Immense military stores are constantly kept ready for use at a moment's notice. In the event of the capture of the city, it could easily be destroyed from the citadel. The Royal Canadian Artillery, consisting of about 365 rank, V in, 5 .% ,1.. I ti i i i'- i -p i i r I ',' ! "!' i i 'f*' "'• ter I 4' '' ,*«. 2 m fe^i'^i ! ^ ?'"R^V«j"^' ' ''Aj^ ' i4?Ll*.^' ' ^i' i''l? l 8i ' S ! ')^ISigl^*"' ' S*^ "'" '*' "" '''' ^' ' ' 1 «<:•/,•* I ' , I >■ H l.ili y i' l 'l ' l'^ii 1 .^ 1) 1 i r> ilil ^ »il| r " t ^ i» rjl^ 1 .1?^ JiJ- ^ -.wa*^^-. OLD ST. LOUIS GATE. 34 CARREL'S GUIDE TO QUEBEC ' and file, is now quartered there, and seems but a hand- ful in the immense fortress. It was by means of the halyard of the flag-statt' on the King's Bastion that the American sympathizers. General Theller and Colonel Dodge, in October, 18;3'i, made th^jr escape from the citadel, where they were prisoners. They had previously drugged the sentry, and contrived to get safely out of the city, despite the precautions of the commandant. Sir James McDonald, a Waterloo veteran. Nor does less historic interest attach to the city's gates, even in their modern attire, which remind the visitor of the old , military regime and which happily form part of the re- , constructed line of fortifications. A rich historv clings to them, though only two of the six original gates are now preserved. These are St. Louis and Kent gates, all of which have been re-erected in har-, mony with Lord Dufferin's plans for the embellishment of the modern city. The visitor will be grateful for the revival of these interesting heirlooms, tliough, histori- cally, he will miss Hope Gate and Prescott Gate, the two quaint picket-flanked structures which marked the era of the British occupation of Quebec. Prescott Gate was sacrificed to the demands of commerce and to the ; thoroughfare which led up Mountain Hill from the Lower Town, and Hope Gate was likewise demolished at the call of the same ruthless traffic. With these fell also Palace Gate, a relic of the earlier occupation of the city and once the portal that led to the palace of the French Intendants. Quite recently St. John's gate* has been taken down to enlarge and embellish John CARREL'S GUIDE TO QUEBEC 35 street. Happily, however, two of the more characteristic gates have been rebuilt and in a style that does credit to the taste of the public spirited Vice-roy, who was instru- mental in securing their restoration. These memorial structures not only form in themselves a series of inte- resting and picturesque archways, but agreeably diver- sify the scene in the stroll round the city ramparts which should not be omitted by the visitor. The Esplanade is the name given to the expanse of verdure, fringed with graceful trees, which extends from St. Louis to Kent Gate and which is bounded to the west by the city walls, from whose summit can be traced the line of the old French fortifications. It was formerly a parade groxind of the British troops until their withdrawal in 1871. A few dismounted cannon are all that now remains of its past glories. The Grand Battery, which extends along the very edge of the cliff, from the top of Mountain Hill to Palace Gate, is also a very interesting sight with its rows of heavy guns commanding the liver. The views of the harbor and surrounding country from it are also very fine. It may be mentioned that, on the river side, the city is defended by the following batteries apart from the Citadel : The Assembly Battery, 9 guns ; the Grand Battery, 17 guns; the St. Charles Battery, 2 guns and 3 bombs ; Half Moon Battery, 1 gun ; Hope Gate Battery, 4 guns ; Montcalm Battery, 4 guns ; Nunnery Battery No. 2, 4 guns and 2 howitzers ; Nun- nery Battery No. 1, 2 guns and 2 howitzers. In addi- tion to these there are beneath the Dufferin Terrace^ s« CARREL'S (iUlDE TO QUEBEC Wolfe's Battery of 4 guns and 1 Palliser cannon and two minor batteries with 4 guns. Quebec is also defended by the three powerful forts, crowning the heights of Levis, referred to further on. < D O H ;z5 « « IN THE CITY*- Vn NOTRE-DAHE DES VICTOIRES BEFORE ascending to the heights from the water side the visitor should first take a look at the me- morial church of Notre-Dame des Victoires or the Little Lower Town chapel, as it is generally called by English speaking people. Architecturally, it is a comparatively insignificant structure, but it is never- theless one of the most interesting historical edifi(?es in Quebec. Erected in 1688, as may be read on its facade, and dedicated to Heaven in gratitude of the French for the memorable repulse of Sir William Phipp's attack on Quebec in 1690 and the providential escape of the town from surrender to Sir Hovenden Walker's formidable armada, wrecked on Egg Island, in the Gulf of St. Lawrence, in 1711, it stands close by the site of Champlain's original ahitation, stores and gardens, destroyed during the first occupation of Quebec by the English under Sir David Kerkt, in 1629, and was partially destroyed by the bombard- ment from Wolfe's batteries at Levis during the siege of 1769. It was rebuilt or rather renovated after the bombardment and still stands to-day an interesting 37 ;« CARREL'S a VIDE TO QUEBEC relic of th^ past. It deiives its name from the feast of Our Lady of Victories, which is annually celebrated in it, on the 7th October. CHAMPLAIN'S OLD FORT CLOSE by this old church, on ground now built over, formerly stood the first buildings and defences erected by the founder of Quebec in 1608. These were called " Cliamplain's Abitation " or Habitation and consisted of quite a number of buildings, includ- ing his own residence or castle as governor of New France. This last was surronded by a ditch, with drawbridge, and the remaining buildings were used as residences for his companions, and as stores, workshops, &c. ; but every vestige of them has long since disap- peared and even their precise site is still somewhat doubtful. CHAMPLAIN'S GRAVE THE exact spot where the illustrious founder of Quebec, who died on Christmas Day, 1035, lies buried, is still an unsolved riddle, over which the local antiquaries have for many years puzzled their brains and waxed warm in their controversies. All that is certain about it, is that it is somewhere in close proximity to his first home here in the New World, but whether in the soil at the base of the cliff or on the heights above, is still unsettled, and will probably forever remain so. » ,■, 40 CARREL'S aUlDE TO Qf^KREC DUFFERIN TERRACE THIS is undoubtedly the finest promenade on \\m continent and probably also in the whole world. It is legitimately the boast and pride of Quebec. It is a planked platform, with a handsome railing in front, and juts out along the very brink of Cape Diamond over the river. Formerly, the platform was much less extensive and was called after an early governor of Canada, the Durham Terrace. But, under the memor- able administration of Lord Dufferin, the extensions and improvements made so changed the form and aug- mented the size of the promenade, that it was deemed only just to call it the Dufferin Terrace. This remark- able terrace extends for 1,500 feet, or over a quarter of a mile, and is about sixty feet wide. It is under the shadow of the citadel and overhangs, so to speak, all the lower portion of Quebec. From its railings, the tourist can look down from a height of about two hun- dred feet upon the river, and across the river to Levis and beyond upon a scene of unequalled and of most varied natural beauty and magnificence. There are five kiosks, I'lessis, Frontenac, Lome and Louise, Dufferin and Victoria, upon the Terrace, apart from one much larger which is used as a band-stand, where on summer evenings, the military musicians from the citadel dis- course sweet tunes for the- enjoyment of all who seek recreation upon the crowded promenade, whither flock in the evening the beauty and fashion of the old capital, and few are the cities which can vie with Quebec in the beauty of its women. / CAItHEUS aUIDE TO QUEBEC 41 BeiDg at Un elevation of over two hundred feet, a magnificent panorama stretches beneath tlie observer, which at the first Qoup d\vU is almost bewildering. The River St. Lawrence, bearing on its bosom hundreds of vessels of every description, from tlie tiny canoe, which from such a height appears but a speck, to the terraced, palace river boat and the huge ocean steamship fiows, majestically onward to the sea. Opposite — in the distance — is the town of Levis, crowning cliffs as high as those of Quebec, and where may be seen the three immense forts erected by the English Government at a cost of £5,000,000 sterling, which render an attack from the south an impracticable, if not an im- possible, attemj)t. Amid the groups of houses are dis- tinguishable churches, convents and schools, while downwards is seen the spire of the church of St. Joseph, clustered round by a number of villas and cottages, and jutting out into the river; the promontory called the " Point " or Indian Cove, once dotted by the wigwams of the Indians, but now inhabited by French Canadians. Towards the East, basking in the sunlight, is the Island of Orleans, once called the Isle of Bacchus, from the quan- tity of wild grayjcs which formerly flourished upon it and again, L'Isle des Sorciers, on account of the bad repute it had gained in reference to evil spirits and ghosts, which, it is said, infested the island in times past. On either side the St. Lawrence passes onward under the name of the north and the south channels. On the north shore, forty miles in the distance, frowns Cape Tour- mente, while as the eye follows upwards, along the shore are the villages of Ste. Anne, La Bonne Ste. 42 CARREUS GUIDE TO QUEBEC Anne, as it is lovingly called by the villagers, Chateau Eicher, L'Ange Gardien and Beauport. Nearly oppo- site the end of the island is the indentation, where rush forever the Falls of ]\iontmorency over the precipice, and from which rises a pillar of fleecy mist, In the rear of all these towt v, range after range, the Lauren- tian mountains, till their blue summits are lost in the azure of the sky. Beneath lies the Lower Town with its busy crowds. At the mouth of the St. Charles is the Custom House, and immediately below the Terrace is the Champlain Market Hall. Close by it is the church of Notre-Dame des Victoires, alreadv described. At the foot of the cliff runs Champlain street, through which, on the olst December, 1775, the gallant, but unfortunate American General, Eicliard Montgomery, endeavored to lead an attack on the citv, but met his death at a place close l)y, now marked by a wooden sign with the inscription "Here Montgomery fell, 3ist December, 1775. " Prescott Gate, called after General Prescott, and demolished in 1871, stood at the spot where the city walls are divided, close to the foot of the steps. Opposite, once stood the Bishop's Palace, and where the first cemetery was established, from which, in late years, have been taken bones and articles of Indian woikmans'iip. CHAMPLAIN'S nONUHENT. THE monument is about fifty feet high. Champlain is represented with plumed hat in hand, saluting the Canadian soil as he lands ; in the other hand are his CARREL'S GUIDE TO QUEBEC 43 titles as founder of the City of Quebec. This statue is 15 feet high and weighs 6,254 ibs., and faces the town. On the square pedestal is placed a bronze group in celfo-relitvo of great beauty. A female form representing the City of Quebec, seated at the foot of the monument, and looking up towards Champlain inscribes the name of the city's founder in letters of i»old on the great book of Iramoital- ity : on her right a child repre- senting the Genius of Navi- gation typifies the profession of the great sailor and explorer ; above these a Fame with wings outspreaxl and trumpet in mouth proclaims the glory of the im- mortal founder of Quebec. :/|l On the upper part are the arms of Brouago, Quebec and Canada. On the lateral faces, is the inscription, in English and French re- spectively. Here was the second clearing made by tlie pio- neers of New France, and CHAMPLAiN-3 MONUMENT. ^^^j^^^.^ Champlaiu crcctcd the famous castle of St. Louis, from which he and his successors, the French viceroys before the conquest, exer- 44 CARRE US GUIDE TO QUEBEG cised at one time a sway that extended from the Gulf of St. Lawrence to the Great Lakes and the mouth of the Mississippi. Here resided the French and English Gov- ernors until the destruction of the old building by fire in 1834, when it was occupied by Lord Aylmer. It was from it that stout old Governor Frontenac returned to Sir William Phipps' demand for the surrender of Quebec, the haughty reply that he would answer him from the mouths of his cannon. It was in it that the English Governor, Guy Carleton, was giving a grand ball on the memorable night of the 31st December, 1775, when liis military guests had to rush to the city walls to defend them against the attack of Montgomery and Arnold. The cellar of the historic old building is still to be seen under the wooden covering of the present Dufferin TeiTace. An interesting feature of the Cha- teau Frontenac, which iiow occupies a part of its site, is the historic keystone bearing a Maltese cross and the date 1647, surmounting the archway or ijorte-cochere, on St. Louis street. It is believed that the originai Order of Knights of Malta, intended to establish a priory in Quebec, and tliat the french governor Montma- gny, himself a Knight of Malta, laid the foundations of a house for this priory, and had this stone prepared to insert in its walls. In rear of the Castle of St. Louis was the area on which stood a fort now covered by the Place d'Armes. This fort in the early days of the French regime was frequently attacked by the intrepid and ferocious Iroquois, who, having overthrown the outposts, more than once threatened the fort itself.. 46 CARREUS GUIDE TO QUEBEC PLACE D»ARMES. THE Riii^ or Place d'Armes in front of the Chateau Frontenac is the place where the remnant of the Huron Indians, driven from the great lakes by their fierce and relentless foes, the Iroquois, took refuge for a time under the shelter of the French guns. During the French regime it was the Grande Place, where military parades and public meetings were held, as well as the fashionable promenade of those eventful times. UNION BUILDING. ON the north side of the Place d'Armes is the Union Building, erected in 1805 upon the site of a pre- vious building occupied as a residence in 1649 by governor D'Ailleboust. This building has a very in- teresting history. Originally occupied by the famous Barons* Club, it was afterwards used as the Union and St. George's Hotels, and as Government offices. WOLFE AND MONTCALH MONUMENT. BETWEEN Dufferin Terrace and the base of the glacis that leads to the citadel, is a beautiful park, called the "Governor's Garden." It is small, but very pictu- resque. The chief attraction of this public garden is a huge shaft of granite, that in 1828 was erected to the memories of Wolfe and Montcalm. Its inscription is considered one of the finest pieces of memorial compo- sition in the country. The two heroes, one leading the ! CARREUS GUIDE TO QUEBEC 47 French troops, the other cheering on the British detach- ments, met on Abraham's Plains one September morn- ing, 1759, and there was decided the fate of Canada for all time. Gloriously defending the Lily flag of France, Montcalm fell mortally wounded, and in dying ex- pressed his satisfaction that he did not see the surren- der of Quebec. Heroic soul ! In the arms of victory, with the dawning of British power in the land, Wolfe was killed, and in dying expressed his contentment to go, since he had won the great Dominion of the future for the land he loved and served so well. Immortal spirit ! To-day the races of French and English-speak- ing Canadians blend in peace and honest emulation, and this monument, built to the memories of the victo- rious and the vanquished leaders, is an emblem of the union that has since sprung up in the land. The found- ation stone of the Wolfe and Montcalm monument was laid on the 15th May, 1827, by the Earl of Dalhousie, the then Governor-General, In 1871, the column was taken down and rebuilt at the expense of a few" spirited citizens. The following are the inscriptions : On the front :* Mortem, Virtu?, Conirnuuem, Faniam Historia, Monumentum Posteritas Dedit. Which may be translated as follows : *' Valor gave them a common death, history a common fame and posterity a common monument. " CAHREL'S GUIDE TO QUEBEC And ou the rear of the sarcophagus : Hujiisce Monumenti in raemoriam virornm illiistrium, WOLFE ET MONTCALM. Fiindanienturn P. C. Georgiiis, Conies do Dalhousie : In septentrionalis, Americ;e partialis Ad Britaiinos portiiitntibus, Summani rerum admiiiislrans : Opus per niultos annos prjvtermissum Quid duei egrcgio convenientius 'i Auctoritate proraovenp, exanipio stimulans Munifieentia fovens, Die Novemlrie xv. A. 1). MDCCCXXVII, Georgio iv, Britaniiiarum Rege. ENGLISH CATHEDRAL. TO the west of the Place d'Arraes is the English Cathedral, built on ground, where once stood the ancient church of tlie KecoUets and their convent, which were destroyed by fire in 1796. The present building was consecrated in 1804; it is built in the Roman style of architecture, and its mural monuments are very fine. In the north-east corner of the cathedral close by, once stood the venerable elm tree, under which Jacques Cartier first assembled his followers on their arrival in the colony, and there are now some magnificent linden trees ornamenting the enclosure. This m " ' f ' V!"i'"',a £ir^%. 'MfW*""''-^ ^Mi ^r. ....•J.;./ tf i i < ^irHjl'i i | ii )' ii| ' i iin ■HI 'J ■ mil i ii ViJ i '' ' ■^ *i4 • K ', ' f ' nd >?"'-'v;c'i„ •' V > ,u■lJ.'*.vt»; ill Qoo^ CAR REVS GUIDE TO QUEBEC 49 (Am \yas blown down on the 6th September, 1845. Be- fore the erection of a Protestant chur(3h in Quebec, Protestant services were permitted at times by the Re- collet Fathers in their old church. The British Govern- ment took possession of the ground after the fire, and at the suggestion of Bishop Moun- tain, tlie first Anglican Bishop of Quebec, King George III, erected the present ca- thedral. Among other objects of historic interest which it contains are the old G9th British regi- lich were deposited in it for safe !> keeping when ) l^rince Arthur ■■^ presented the regiment, then in garrison in Quebec, with a set of new co- lors, and the Governor-Gen- eral's pew, in which have worshipped at various times i^ot only the British viceroys of Canada, but various members of the Royal Family of England. THE COURT HOUSE. TInother striking structure looking out on the Place •^ d'Armes is the new Court House, one of the handsomest modern buildings of Quebec. 4 so CA liREVH GUIDE TO QUEBEC POST OFFICE AND CHIEN D*OR. LEAVING the Place d'Armes and passing to the north by Fort Street, the visitor comes to the City Post Office, erected in 1873, on the site of an old build- ing, which had a world of romantic history connected with it. The famous Golden Dog, a puzzle to so many, occupies its old position above the door on Buade street, just opposite the Chiend' Or restaurant, as much resorted to in these days as was the site of the Post Office, when Admiral Nelson and Montgomery frequented it. Underneath the Golden Dog are the lines : Je suis un chien qui ronge I'os, En le rongeant je prends raon repos, Un temps viendra qui n'est pas venu, Que je niordray qui m'aura mordu. In demolishing the ancient structure, a corner stone was found, on which was cut a St. Andrew's cross between the letters PH. under the date 1735. On this was found a piece of lead bearing the following ins- cription : NICOLAS JAQUES, DIT PHILIBERT, m'a ^0£^ le 26 Aout, 1735. The story in connection therewith is told as follows : — ^In this building lived a wealthy merchant of the name of Philibert, who had many causes of complaint against the French Intendant, whose high position CARREL'S GUIDE TO QUEBEC 01 . • — I could not easily be assailed by the simple merchant without suffering severe retaliation ; he therefore satis- fied his revenge by placing the Golden Dog, with the attendant lines, above his door. Among other things, the Intendant had organized a vast trade monopoly, which received the name of La Friponne, whose trans- actions and dealings were most oppressive to the people, and in this he was resisted and sometimes circumvented by Mr. Philibert. It is also said that to arjnoy Mr. Philibert, the Intendant, the infamous Bigot, quartered troops upon the Chien d'Or. Be this as it may, a quar- rel ensued between Mr. Philibert and Mons. de la. Eepentigny, a boon companion of Bigot, in which the former was fatally wounded and the latter fled to Nova Scotia, then Acadia, till he received his pardon from the king of France, Louis XIV, whereon he returned to Quebec. After the siege of 1759, he went to Pondi-. cherry, where, meeting the son of his victim, he was killed by him in a duel. There are several versions of this tradition, but the above seems to be the most correct. A less tragic occurrence took place a few years later in the Chien d'Or building, Miles Prentice, who had come out as a sergeant in the 78th regiment, under Wolfe, opened an inn in the building, then known as the Masonic Hall, to which inn resorted all the fashion- ables of the day, among whom was in 1782 Captain, afterwards Admiral Nelson, then commanding H.M.S. Albemarle, of 26 guns. Miles Prentice had a niece, Miss Simpson, daughter of Sandy Simpson whose CAR/it:L\S iiUlDt: OF QUEBEC 53 charms so captivated the embryo A(hniral, that when his vessel had sp'' d from port, lie clandes- tinely returned for the ^Airpose of wedding " the maid of the inn," which purpose was defeated by Mr. Alexander Davidson, then a Quebec merchant, who, with the assistance of his boat's crew, forcibly carried the amorous captain on board his vessel. This timely interference gained for England many a glorious naval victory, and lost for Lady Hamilton her good name. It was Mrs. Prentice who re(;ognized the body of Richard Montgomery after the ineffectual attempt of December 31st, 1775. A horrible suicide is another of the incidents of the Chien d'Or. And it is also related that the Duke of Clarence, afterwards William IV, uncle of Queen Victoria, received a sound cow-hiding, in its neighborhood, at the hands of an angry father, whose daughter the Duke had been pursuing with Jiis attentions. OLD PARLIAflENT HOUSE 71 PRETTY little park, shaded with green trees, and ^ overlooking the hill and the river, now occupies the site of the old Parliament House, in which was held the famous Quebec Conference that brought about the Confedeiation of the British Provinces of North America. It was constructed in 1859 to replace a former one, originally built as a palace for the Catholic bishops of Quebec, and for many years used as the Parliament House of Lower Canada and of the united provinces of Lower and Upper Canada, but destroyed 54 CAR REUS GUIDE TO QUEBEC by fire many years ago. The building by which it was replaced, and which was used for a time until Confe- deration and the removal of the seat of the Federal Government to Ottawa as the Parliament House of Lower and Upper Canada, and afterwards as the build- ing in which the Legislature of the Province of Quebec held its sessions, was also totallv consumed in 1883. CARDINAL'S PALACE THE palace of the first Canadian Cardinal — His Emi- nence Cardinal Taschereau, and Archbishop Begin, of Quebec, also stands at the summit of Mountain Hill, where it dovetails with Fort street, or ilie street leading to Cliamplain old fort and ire Castle of St. Louis. It is a large and handsome cut stone building, containing some splendid apartments, of which the most striking is the throne room, all the furniture and hangings of which are in cardinal red. The reception room is richly furnished and tilled with busts, statues and portraits given by the dilferent Popes to the late Cardinal- Arch- bishop and liis predecessors in the See of Quebec. THE BASILICA CLOSE by is the Basilica or French Cathedral. And what a wonderful mediicval edifice that cathedral is ! It is ancient in its form, its towers, its cupolas, its peculiar roof, its vast proportions; it is the picture of some of those temples that one meets with in Spain or Germany. Interiorly it is all brightness. While the CAP REUS GUIDE TO QUEBEC 15 air of the past seems to cling to it, its white walls a gold decorations lend a richness to its appearance the serves to bring out in grander relief the numerous old master-works of art that adorns its walls. All the churches of Quebec — and^ there are many, for it is a city of churches — present this same clean, lively, white appearance that seems to render them perpetually young, despite the years that have oone over them, construction was oun as far back as 1 647 ; and mass was said in it for the first time in 1650, but it was 1666 be- fore it was con- secrated by Mgr Laval de Mont- morency, fi r s t Catholic bishop Quebec, whose Si extended from the Lawrence and the Ocean to th e G ulf of Mex- ico and from the Atlantic to the Pacific, a vast territory out of which over sixtv dioceses have since been form- ed. It is, in fact, the metropolitan church of North .V :v,r /' 56 • CAHHEL'S (WIDE TO QUEBEC America. It was badly damaged by the Britisli bom- bardment in 1759. In 1874, it was raised to the rank of a Basilica Minoi. Its chancel or sanctuary is a copy of St. Peter's at Eome. The whole edifice is 216 feet in length by 108 in width and is capable of acco- modating 4000 worshippers. It contains some of the most remarkable objects of liistoric interest and most valuable works of art on this continent, which were conveyed from France to Canada by Canadian priests after the Keign of Terror in 1793. These objects chietly consist of paintings, vestments and sacred ves- sels. Some of the vestments were the gifts of former Kings and Queens of Frrtnco. The following are among the most notable of the paintings : — The Con- ception, after Lebrun, by an unknown artist ; St. Paul, by Carlo JVLiratti ; Christ attended by Angels ; The Flight of Mary and Joseph, a copy, by T. Hamel ; Christ, by Van Dyck ; Nativity of Christ, copy of Guido ; Christ submitting to the soldiers, by Fleuret; Pentecost Hymn ; The Holy Family, by Jacques Blanchard ; The Annunciation, bv Jean Ristout ; Ste. Anne and the Tomb of t!ie Saviour, by Plamondon. THE SEHINARY CHAPEL WHICH adjoins the Basilica, is a handsome r^ew edifice only completed in 1891, and replaces that de- stroyed by fire in 1889 with a number of valuable art treasures, including a Saviour by Lagrence and a re- presentation of the Ascension by Champagne. It also contains a number of alleged relics of the Saviour's . **.»'■>; ■/ ■ •' ■: ■■■ :■: w:.' »';;.^ ^• CARREL'S GUIDE TO QUEBEC 57 passion, including portions of the cross, the crown of thorns, and the seamless robe, besides a rich reliquary presented to the Seminary by Pope Leo XIII, heavily jewelled and valued at $50,000, ' QUEBEC SEHINARY PASSING through tlie gate, the visitor finds hinis.df on the Seminary square, on three sides of which is the Semi nary, which was founded in 1603 by Monsei- gneur de Laval, first bishoj) of Quebec, and which is partic\ilarly interesting to Americans as the scene of the confinement of the American officers taken prison- ers during the siege by Montgomery and Arnold in 1775. The b\iilding was destroyed by fire on the 15th November, 1701, and was rebuilt and again destroyed on the 1st October 1705, when it was again rebuilt but almost entirely demolished during the siege of 1759. The College is divided into the Grand Seminary, a school f divinit]^ having seven professors and about thirty- four students, and the Minor Seminary, for general education, having about six hundred pupils, instructed by over forty professors. Passing through the inter- minable corridor:, the lower one of which is partly nn- ilerground and lighted by barred windows, one becomes bewildered and miojht lose himself in the endless turn- ings and descents. One may easily imagine himself in the dim periods of the Middle Ages, an illusion render- ed more vivid by the sombre figures of dark-robed priests pacing up and down the vast galleries. Within the last few years a very large ad^iition has Ijeen made •r■;>■'■^^f^.■/!'V''■^4■.'v^^.. ■■..,., ..' . •- . . . • • •% ' ■■•■ •,■■■'. ••■■ ■•- , - ,, i- «,?.,,';}!^T,-,,.y>-.-:,v»^i->.:i-> , ■ . ■■; , • v; ,■■•'''..,■ ■-■ , •' ..■•■. '■-•*>■ -t'-rv-'it:^- "'n>^v; ':-t'^;% :v^v-■l•i■^ ■■'■■' '•■'■■■. •••^ ■•■... ■■•■• ■-.>:■ -v- ■■ .,■.,. OLD HOPE GATE. CARREL'S aUIDE TO QUEBEC 59 to the buildings, which was very much needed to accommodate the great number of pupils attending the Seminary. These with those of the Laval University occupy a large extent of ground in one of the finest ])ortions of the city. LAVAL UNIVERSITY F1K)M the Seminary, Laval Lhiivorsity may be reached. The Seminarv was founded in 1663, and Laval I'niversity is an outgrowth of that institution. Laval ranks amongst the leading universities of this continent. It lias been called after the famous bishop, Mgr. Laval de Montmorency, who endowed it liberally, as did all liis successors. Apart from the boarding-house — for inedical and law studiuts — and the special building for the medical classes, the main body of the University consists of an immense six-storv edifice that is about two hundred and fifty feet in length and seventy in depth. It looks down from the hioli rock — two hundred feet above the river — upon the most magnificent scene that nature, combined with human invention, can present in America. Its triple towers and its lofty cross-crowned cupola, seem to rise into the very heavens. Imposing as the edifice is from the outside it is a treasure house within. Its lecture halls, its professors' rooms, its classes of chemistry, physics, and mechanical science, filled with specimens of every modern invention' or appliance, would suffice to keep a stranger hours in pleasant investigation. Its vast library, one of the most extensive and rare in Canada, is a treasure in itself. Its ':■■,.' ' ' , -^ '; ■■■-' ' ■ 60 CAR RE US GUIDE TO QUEBEC museum certainly surpasses anything of the class in the country. It is so extensive that four or five hours would be required in order to glance at the perfectly arranged and carefully catalogued relics and curiosities that it holds. But, of all the treasure-departments of Laval, that of the Art Gallery is the most wonderful. Before entering those lengthy halls, hung with the choi- cest specimens of painting, it would be well to visit the grand reception room where hangs the portrait of the present Pope. The different paintings in that parlor are all from the brushes of masters ; and on a large central table, in a magnificent gold -bound casket, is the charter of the University and documents proclaiming its canonical erection. In that hall, did Lord Dufferin, the Marquis of Lome and Her Eoyal Highness the Princess Louise, Bishop Conroy, the Papal Delegate, and others hold receptions. In the gallery of paintings itself there are several originals from the brushes of the great masters. There are two Salvator Eosas, three Teniers, one Romenelli, one Joseph Vernet, one Paget, two Van Dykes, one Poussin and a large number from other equally celebrated artists. In a word, Laval University is one of the great glories of old Quebec. It was erected in 1857 and the boarding house, which is separated from the principal building, as is also the School of Medecine, is now occupied by the Laval Normal School. The University has four chairs : Theo- logy, Law, Medicine and Art, there being thirty-four professors, and nearly three hundred students. Seven colleges and seminaries are alhliated with the Univer- ■\,"i- . ■><, r CAR REUS GUIDE TO QUEBEC 61 sity. There are several large halls containing the Mu- seiuns of Geology, Natural History, Arts and Sciences. The Picture Gallery is yearly receiving large additions, wliile the library is the largest in Canada, and is rich in valuable MSS relating to the early history of the country. From the prgmenade on the roof a magnificent view of the valley of the St. Charles and down the St. Law- rence can bo had. The remains of Monseigneur de Laval, which had been interred after his death, Gth May, 1708, in the Basilica, and afterwards exhumed and reinterred in the same place by Mgr. Pontbriand, were discovered during some excavations in the Basilica in 1877 and were reinterred with great ceremony and pomp on the 23rd May, 1878, a procession bearing the remains and visiting the four churches, which it is said were called at bv the first funeral cortege : the Semi- nary Chapel, the Ifrsuline Chapel, the Congregation Chapel, and the St. Patrick's Church, in lieu of the KecoUet Church, no longer in existence. On this occa- sion 100 guns were fired at intervals of one minute and a half, from the old Jesuit Barracks yard, by the Volun- teer Field Battery. THE HARKET SQUARE. IN front of the Basilica, one of the most venerable and historic churches in America, the tourist will notice a large open space that was apparently once a market or public square. It served in its time the purposes of both. Among the buildings on its southern side, there is still one used as a restaumnt, which was ■T •.- r. V .1 , "^ I TF :•> -^ ,! v^« ^1» OLD MARKET SQUARE. ' ;. >■',>.' ' ■' ' , ' .' ...... .»■ \ - . ■, V f ' .'-A""-. ;/••.. f . -y ■ CAHHEVS aUIDE TO QUEBEC 63 the first public iun or hotel opened in Quebec, as far back as 1647. It was kept by one Jacques Boisdon, under the sign of the Baril d'Or or Golden Barrel, with a legend which was a play upon mine ancient host's name '' j'en boifi done" (Therefore I drink) Jacques Boisdon had the right by deed, signed by M. D'Aille- })oust, Father Lallemant, and the Sieurs Chavigny, Godfroi and Giffard, to servo his guests, ])rovided it was not during moss, the sermon, catechism, or vespers. To the north of the square are the stores of Messrs. Fisher & Sons, saddlers, where in 1810, resided General Brock, the hero of Queenstown Heights. THE OLD JESUITS' COLLEGE. ON the western side of the square there stood, until 1878, the famous Jesuits' College, built in 1635, one year before Harvard ; the oldest institution of its class upon this continent occupied for two hundred and fifty odd years that spot. It was subsequently in 1763 seized and turned into a barrack for British troops, and finally, when it was destroyed, it took a considerable time to tear the walls to pieces. Picks, powder, and dynamite were used and still the stones, that had been cemented to last for centuries, resisted the hands of the demolishers. It was the first institution of education — in the form of a college — built in America. Inside its walls, and under its roof, the famous martyrs Lalle- mant, de Br^boeuf, Noue, Jogues, Daniel and Vipont taught. There, too, did Marquette draw his plans of discovery that led to the establishment of Christianity r,- 61 CAHREUS GUIDE TO QUEBEC on the banks of the Mississippi. In levelling the foundations of that part of the building that formed the private chapel of the Jesuits, the workmen discov- ered, still resting upon the remains of the coffins in which they were interred, nearly two and a quarter centuries before, the skeletons of the only three meni- l^ers of the Jesuit Order ever interred there, namely, those of Brother Jean Liegeois, the architect of the .structure that for 224 years was both his monument and tomb ; of Father Jean de Quen, tlie founder of the Tadousac Mission and the discoverer of Lake St. John, and of Father Francois Du Peron, one of the most active promoters of the Jesuit Mission to the Hurons. All three skeletons were perfect to the smallest bone, when found, with the exceptions of that of Frere Liegeois, which lacked the skull. His cold-blooded murder bv the Iroquois invaders of the Christian Huron settlement at Sillery occurred on the 29th May, 1655. His head was severed from his body and carried some distance away, and his scalp borne off in triumph. The three skeletons in question, after having mysteriously disappeared for nearly twelve years, were finally interred in a vault in the Chapel of the Ursuline Convent, on the 12th May, 1891. A magnificent public funeral marked the trans- lation of the remains, and the Government of the Pro- vince of Quebec erected a mural monument bearing a sfuitable inscription to their memory, in the sanctuary in question and almost immediately opposite to that in memory of General Montcalm. In 1888, the late Prime Minister Mercier passed an act through the Provincial CAHRELS (fUlDE TO QUEBEC G5 Legislature to cnmpeiisate the Jesuits for the loss of this and other of their property in Canada, which had long ago been declared forfeited to the Crown. A good deal of bigotry and fanaticism was aroused throughout the country by this settlement, but, tliough strongly urged to veto the measure, both the Government at Ottawa and Lord Stanley of Preston, the then Governor- General, declined to do so. NEW CITY HALL f\ UKHEc's new City Hall, which occupies a large por- W> tion of the site of the old Jesuits' College or ]>ar- racks as it was for some time termed, stands therefore on doubly interesting historic ground. It is an alto- gether new structure and of very striking and handsome proportions and appearance befitting tlie head(juarters of the city government. It is of a mixed style of architec- ture with the Norman predominating, and measures 200 feet upon the old Market square, 120 upon St. Anne street and 178 upon Fabrique street. It contains not only the City Council chaml)er and the Mayor's offices and those of the civic administration, but the Eecorder's Court, and the central police, fire and fire alarm stations. The city is chiefly indebted for it to the energy and en- terprise of its present popular chief magistrate. His Worship Mayor S. N. Parent, M.P.P., Minister of Lands, Forests and Fisheries of the Province of Queliec, assisted by a progressive City Council. 5 NEW CITY HALL. CARREL'S GUIDE TO QUEBEC 6T URSULINE CONVENT THIS convent, founded by Madame de la Peltrie, a pious French lady, in 1639, is the most .ancient in Canada. Built in 1G41, it was destroyed by fire in 1650, and again in 1686. On both these occasions, the Ursuline nuns were received by the Hospitaliere Nuns of the Hotel Dieu. It was again rebuilt, the whole colony assisting in its construction, so loved and esteemed were Madame de la Peltrie and the Ursulines. The convent has been greatly enlarged during latter years. The convent buildings, a pile of massive edifices of stone, two and three stories high, are erected on ground covering an area of seven acres, surrounded by St. Louis, St. Ursule, St. Anne and Garden streets. The entrance faces the end of Parloir street. The chapel, which is 95 feet long and 45 broad, is quite plain outside, but the interior is pleasing though simple. On the right of the principal altar is seen a large grating, which separates the church from the choir in which the nuns, who are cloistered, attend divine service. No man, not even the chaplain, is allowed to enter the cloister, save tlie Governor of the country and members of the Eoyal Family. The sisterhood of the convent number nearly a hundred, and its educational system is justly renowned. The daughters of leading Cana- dian and American families are amongst the 250 or so of pupil-boarders in the institution, and there are also a large number of day pupils. Fraser's Highlanders were stationed in this convent during the winter of 68 CARREL'S GUIDE TO QUEBEC 1759, following the capture of Quebec, and the table on which the first sentence of death was signed by the British authorities against a woman, Madame Dodier. for poisoning her husband, is still to be seen in the rear part of the convent. But to tourists the most attractive feature of the institution is the chapel, which contains the mortal remains of Montcalm and what are claimed to be the following relics : — The body of St. Clements from the Catacombs of Rome, brought to the Ursulines in 1687 ; the skull of one of the companions of St. Ursula, 1675 : the skull of St. Justus, 1662 ; a piece of the Holy Cross, 1667 ; a portion of the Crown of Thorns brought from Paris in 1830. General Mont- calm was buried liere on the day following the fatal yet glorious fight of the 13th of September, 1759, on the Plains of Abraham, His appropriate tomb was an excavation in the rock formed by the explosion of a shell. Le Moine relates that in 1833 it having been found necessary to repair the wall, an aged nun, Sister Dube, who had, as a child, attended the funeral, pointed out the grave of Montcalm. The skeleton was found intact, and the skull placed in custody of the chaplain, who keeps it preserved in a glass case. A monument to the memory of the great General, erected September 14th, 1859, with an epitaph prepared in 1763, by the French Academy, deserves attention. Another was erected to his memory by Lord Aylcner in 1832, bear- ing an inscription of which the following is the trans- lation : . '*:: ;:■:./ , .r ■ CAR HE us GUIDE TO QUEBEC # HOKOR TO M3NTCALM ! . .. •.. ; Fate in Depriving Him ' i' .' OF Victory ,. ^ - . . Rewarded him by ' ' ' - - -7. • .-'A Glorious Death ! •'-'- "■ >^^c'! ^ There are many valuable paintings in the convent including among others the following : Jesus sitting down at meat in >.::-"..' Simon's house Ph. de Champagn3j Death of St. JMme • Bishop St. Nonus admitting to penance St. Pt^lagie J. Prudhomme, 1737, The wise and foolish vi robins From Florence. » The mi^ iculous draught of fishes De Dieu, 1741. i The Virgin, the Infant and St. ' ' • ;'> l v^aunenne* • I ••••••• • •••••••• •••••• St. Theresa in ecstasy The Annunciation ,v ' Christ's Adoration by the Shep- •• ^ herds ' '7 ' • The Sacred Heart ' v ;) The Saviour preaching Champagne. . , • The Portrait of the Saviour ac- ;:>-.,.: i cording to St. Luke .^^ >..;'. ■ "^ * * ! The Virgin and Infant Eedemption of Captives at Al- . • giere, by the Reverend Fathers of Mercy Ristout. -■■■■«. K .•'..„..„,- ro CARREUS GUIDE TO QUEBEC France offering religion to the Indians of Canada, an allegory by a Franciscan, 1700 St. Peter concealing hiinsjelf to witness the sufferings of C'hrist Spanish School. o » o H o P? D O » CARREUS OUIDE TO QUEBEC Tl 5T. LOUIS 5TREET THIS was the fashionable thoroughfare of old Quebec in the latter days of the French regime, as it is yet the residence of many of the leading citizens. On his way from the Dufferin Terrace or the Ursuline Convent to the Citadel, the visitor passes through it and many of the buildings on it or their sites are of great historic interest. The old City Hall recently demolished occupies the ground on which stood the resi- dence of the French chemist or surgeon, Dr. Arnoux, whither Montcalm was carried from the fatal Plains of Abraham and where he breathed his last. Close by is the site of the house of the cooper Gaubert, to which General Montgomery's body was taken on the fatal 31st December, 1775, and where it was laid out for the grave. Further down on the opposite side is a large building known as the old Officers' Quarters, which intendant Bigot, with his wonted liberality with things not belonging to him, presented to his mistress, the beautiful Madame de Pean, n^e Ang(51ique de Me- loises, the wife of de IMan, Bigot's chief assistant in all his nefarious transactions. After Bigot had returned to France stripped of his honors and of his ill-gotten wealth, and branded with the name of thief, Madame de Pean was not forgetful of her quondam lover, but out of the spoils she had managed to keep safe, allowed him a moderate competency. Mr. Kirby, in his his- torical romance. " The Golden Dog," has woven an exceedingly intricate and exciting plot out of the loves CAR RE us GUIDE TO QUEBEC of these two personages. The residence of the fair and proud Angclique became, under English rule, quarters for officers not ixisiding in the citadel, and the build- ings in rear were used as the Military Hospital. In rear of these is a hill called Mount Carrael, on which at one time stood a wind-mill, turned into a tower of defence by a heavy cannon mounted thereon for the protection of the colony against the inroads of the warlike Iroquois. The wind-mill has disappeared, but in the spring-time the lilac trees on its summit present a most delightful sight. Other interesting buildings in this street are the Kent House, now used as lawyers* offices, but formerly the residence of the Duke of Kent, father of Queen Victoria ; the Montcalm Hotel, where Montcalm established his headquarters before the battle of the Plains of Abraham ; the Masonic Hall, on the ground flat of which Mr. II. M. Stocking has his popular office for the issue of tickets by all railway and steamship lines in Canada and the United States and even in Europe ; the Union Club, which served in 1812-13 as a place of confinement for the American prisoners taken at Detroit, and the garrison Club at the foot of the Citadel Hill. In Garden street close bv and facing the chapel of the Ursuline Convent, is the site of Ma- dame de la Peltrie's house. It was through this street also, that Theller and Dodge passed after their peri- lous escape from the Citadel on their way to Hope Gate. ,i ,: . , ' • • - CARREL'S a VIDE TO (QUEBEC 73 GENERAL nONTGOHERY TO Americans especially, everything, connected with their gallant, but ill-fated countryman, General Kichard Montgomery, who fell in the night attack by the American revolutionary forces on Quebec on the 31st December, 1775, is of deep interest. The spot where he fell, the place to which his body was taken and laid out for interment, and the ground in which it laid buried for forty-three years, are rightfully sacred in their eyes. From the Dufferin Terrace, the narrow pass in Champlain street, immediately below the Citadel, where he, and his two aides-de-camp, Majors Cheese- man and McPherson, and thirteen of his brave soldiers were mowed down by a murderous discharge of grape and canister from the British blockhouse guarding the pass, can be easily seen. But if the visitor wishes to have a nearer view of it, he must go down into Champlain street or if he watches for the signboard on the face of the clifT, marking the fatal spot, as he passes up or down the river on the splendid palnce steamers of the Riche- lieu and Ontario Navigation Company, it ( an be easily perceived. There is nothing to mark it but a signboard, as already said, on the rock immediately overhanging the scene of his heroic death on that stormy wintry night. This signboard, which is painted black and which bears the inscription on raised gilt letters : "Here Montgomery Fell, Dec. 31st 1775," was put up many years ago by some of the generous-hearted Irish Cana- dians residing in that part of the city, who raised the money necessary by a subscription among themselves. .\ ■' ■» av'\ . J>' CARREL'S GUIDE TO QUEBEC 7» Patriotic countrymen of the dead General, in ws- ponse to the appeal of Mrs. Isabel Garrison, of Chicago, who is supported in Canada ])y Sir William Van Home, and in the United States by the descendants of Mont- gomery, and the Sons and Daughters of the American Revolution, propose, if accorded the site, to erect a suitable monument here to his memory. The City Council of Quebec has unanimously given its approval to the project, and tbc consent of the Dominion now only remains to be secured. Mention bus already ])een made of the siti; of tbe old house on St. Louis Street to which Montgomery's body was taken next morning and laid out for interment. This old house was in existence until only a few years since, when it was taken down and replaced by a handsome modern building, which is owned and occupied by Chevalier Baillairg^, the City Engineer, and which bears an inscription on its front, indicating the historic importance of its site. Further up St. Louis street, and immediately to the southward of St. Louis Gate, on the side of the green slope which .skirts the Citadel hill, is the old British military prison, now a military storehouse. In the yard of this store- liouse, marked by a small boulder, is the spot where Montgomery's body was buried and where it remained for forty-three years until, with the consent of the British Government, it was given up to his sorrowing widow and taken to New York, where it was finally interred in St. Paul's church with military honors, at the expense of the State. The bodies of the General's two aides, Cheeseman and McPherson were interred in 76 . CARRKUS GUIDE TO QUEBEC their clothes near the spot where he was laid and, in the course of some excavations in the yard of the old military storehouse some years since, a part of what are believed to be their bones, were found. At the sugges- tion of Quebe(;'s historian, Sir James Lemoine, they were submitted to one of the city's leading surgeons, who declared that they must have formed part of the framework of men several inches or more over six feet in height, whicli both Cheeseman and McPherson are known to have been. There is good reason therefore to conclude that the bones in question are relics of these gallant, but unfortunate men, and, as such, they have been religiously preserved in a small coffin covered with glass for the inspection of visitors by a warm- hearted Irishman, Mr. Patrick Lewis, one of the arti- ficers of the military store, an old soldier himself, who was also instrumental, later on in 1894, in identifying" the spot where the thirteen American soldiers killed with Montgomery and his aides were buried and in saving their bones from tlie neglected fate which threa- tened them at the hands of ignorant workmen engaged in making repairs to the flooring of the store. These have been reintorred in a suitable coffin near the spot where they were found and a handsome mural tablet bearing the inscription : " Beneath this tablet repose the remains of thirteen American soldiers of General Mont« gomery's army, who were killed in the assault on Quebec, Dec. 31st 1775. Placed to their memory by several American children," has been erected over it through the patriotic impulse and generosity of the CARItKL'S a VIDE TO QUKIiEG 77 two young daughters of G. M. Fairchild, jr., of Cai)e Rouge, formerly of New York, aided by some of their little friends in the United States. .... .V PALACE STREET THIS street ?o culled because it led to the pahiec of the Intendants under the French regime, is one of the most famous and intc^restiug in Quebec's history. It is situated in llie very heart of the old city, and near its intersection with St. John street, the main artery and business c>.M»tre of its upper levels, is the enlarged and modernized Hotel Victoria already referred to, the favorite resort of tourists and visitors. On the front of the large house at tlie western corner of St. John and Palace streets, will be noticed a statue of Gen. Wolfe, which was origin illy put up there in 1771 and which has finally found a resting phice there after many pere- grinations in the early part of the present century. Carried off by English " middies " and men of war's men " out for a lark" to the West Indies and other places, it eventually found its way back to the old Quebec. Nearly opposite the Hotel Victoria is an old- fashioned building with the distinguishing thick walls and cavernous vaults of the French erii, in which form- erly resided Brassard Duchesnaux, a druggist, the bosom friend of the infamous Intendant Bij^^ot. HOTEL DIEU F URTHER down, on the opposite side of the street, is another of Quebec's oldest and most historic .■T • ■ . T ,J . .. :-■ *,' ••. PALACE HILL. CAKREL'S (WIDE TO QUEBEC 79 institutions, the Hotel Dieu Convent and Hospital, founded in 1639, by the Duchesse d'Aiguillon, niece of the famous Cardinal Richelieu, Avho brought out the Hospitaliere Nuns and placed them in charge. It is the most ancient institution of its kind in America. Within the last few years it lias been greatly enlarged and modernized, and is now one of the grandest and best equipped hospitals in the country. It also is full of famous old paintings, such as The Nativity Stella. The Virgin and Child Noel Coynol. Vision of St. Theresa Geul Monagbt. St. Bruno in Meditation Eustache LeSueur. The Descent from the Cross. .Copy by Plamondon. The Twelve Ajjostles Copy by Baillairg(',the elder. The Monk in Prayer De Zurbaran. But its most interesting relics are the skull of Father DeBrebo'uf and the bones of Father CJabriel de Lalle- maut, the great Jesuit martyrs. 8(1 CAR REVS a VIDE TO QUEBEC CARTRIDGE FACTORY. FURTHER down still, where the roadway cuts through the fortification wall upon the site of old Palace Gate, is the Quebec Cartridge Factory, where a large portion of the ammunition required for the use of the Canadian military forces is manuf\ictured. This estab- lishment is located in the old Artillery Barracks of the British era, which overlooks the hill ascending to Palace Gate, one of the objective points of Arnold's attack in 1775. OLD INTENDANT'S PALACE TTI T the foot of Palace Hill, in rear of Boswell's brewery «/* are the ruins, all that now remains of the proud palace of the French Intendants, once the abode of lux- * ury, the scene of revelry and debauchery, a building which outshone in splendor and magnificence the Castle of St. Louis, and whose lords considered themselves the equals, if not the superiors of the Governors. Here the infamous Bigot concocted the nefarious plottings of the Friponne ; here he squandered the thousands which he robbed from the public treasury, and pilfered from the downtrodden inhabitants of New F'rance. His princely mansion now serves but as vaults for casks and puncheons of ale and porter. The extent of the original building can easily be traced, as, although dur- ing its occupation by the American troops in 1775, under Montgomery and Arnold, it was bombarded from the city and destroyed by fire, there are sufficient re- mains to judge of the once mngnificent structure. Mtpl6 Leaf Belt Bttckto with Bibboii ef my deilnd 0^ - $4.00 Fleafdeldf Ooffiie Bpm $1«25 We have also Souveair Bon Bon Boxes, Paper Knires, Sh(^ Horns, Table Bells i^ad many other useful articles in * STERLING Slt^V^R • — QnebeeOottoflnu BvoMk $1.00 '••mmmmtmrnmrnm G. SE1FERT JEWiaJLER 34 FABRIQUE STREET OIHHMtlTE TM€ Omr HALI, Coif li^yki $l80I ' ill m il l iiii ti pl^iiaaillwwiMi**^*' 1 P ^^ i^ »^ ^ ^ *»^ ^* ^<» i > *i^iiiW i# » # w i WM W M it< i j ^ ^ e 4 ■^ v- ♦•.♦ ^ ,; ^^^ ***"«< -Jglill^Wlir^' Ml MiMIMJf -«*»-.,,*.*-^«i -t^- "■ «iy*"*'-*'' i" i>'i"*. ■ U iii^ j iiia—^* % )ifti Cbf. St^ John ^ Pi^Jfe, .. Q1J8BEC. tj^M^ Soda Confer poun^in in f^ ^j^, Me recommenSed ioi 12419: ^r ItijD Cross Fly JBaste/ the itt pftmcioii to ]»£«E»i€)i&t the exposed portt^sdf the body from ntos- ' qnitaesvetc. ^ aSGi P«f Tul>«. Sent to any «fi ' iii ' i " i jiit ii '" G GROGiRS nts. r— OORNER OF ANN AND GARDil^ SfREifS, Opposite the English CatkedrcUt Upfi^r Town. Flsltiiig Order* PiPomptty^ AU^md^ Ta. ift^ ■it'' W CO 82 CARREUS GUIDE TO QUEBEC THE PARLIAHENT H0U5E. THE Parliament House and Departmental Buildings situated immediately outside of St, Louis Gate on St. Louis street, or as it is here called, the Grande Alice, are amongst the finest public edifices in Canada. Their construction was comnieuced in 1878 and com- pleted in 1887, and in them the Proyincial or State Legislature of Quebec holds its sessions and the public departments are located. The different varieties of stone employed in their erection were all quarried in the Province of Quebec. The buildings form a perfect square, each side of which is oOO feet in length and four stories in height, with mansards and towers at each corner. From the main tower facing the city the view of Quebec and the surrounding country is unrivalled. The interior is well worthy of inspection, especially the handsomely tiled main corridors and the richly fur- nished chai libers of the Legislative Assembly. The bronze luuiau group in front of the main entrance to the Parliament Puildings is by Hebert, the Cana- dian sculptor. Heroic statuary of the principal actors in Canadian history finds a lodgment, in the various recesses on the facade of the Parliament House, those of Count Frontenac, of Generals Wolfe, Montcalm and de Levis, of Colonel DeSalaberry and Lord Elgin, being already in position. This block of Provincial buildings has already cost between $1,500,000 and $2,000,000. It coi]tains an excellent library, and in its vaults may be seen all, or very nearly all, the original archives of New France before the conquest CAR RE us aUIDE TO QUEBEC 83 by Great Britain in 1760. In these buildings there was held in September, 1890, thy ninth annual meet- ing of the American Forestry Association, on which occasion two hickory trees sent from the Hermit .',ge, (leneral Andrew Jackson's old home in Tennessee, were ])lantod where they may now be seen on the CJrande Alice on the southern side of the Buildings. > DRILL HALL and SHORT-^WALLICK nONUHENT CLOSE by on the opposite side of the Gi'ande Alkie are the new Drill Hall of the local military organ- zations, and, in the square in front of it, the monument not Ions? since erected to the memory of two brave men, Major Short and Staff Sergeant Wallick, of the Royal Canadian Artillery, who lost their lives by an explosion wdiile gallantly fighting the flames in the great conflagration which swept the St. Sauveur suburb in 1839. NEW DRILL HALL. 84 CAR REUS iiUlDK TO QUEBEC COVE FIELDS IN rear of the Drill Hall and tlie line of handsome residences on the south side of the Grande Allee are the Cove Fields overlooking the timber coves and commanding a fine view of the harboi. These contain two of the Martello towers already refcired to, the Quebec observatory, the district gaol and last but not the least the remains of some of the old French fortifica- tions of Quebec now crumbling to dust. The highest point of these grounds, Ferrault's Hill, was formerly known as the Buite a Nepveu and up to the end of last century served as the general place of execution for criminals in Quebec. ATHLETIC GROUNDS ON the northern side of the Grande Allee, occupying a large portion of tlie field of Martello Tower, No. 3 are the fine club-house and grounds of the Quebec Athletic Association, where lacrosse, foot-ball, hockey, bicycling, skating sliding and other athletic spoits and matches, are held, each in their season. Opposite to these is the Church of England Female Orphan Asylum while on either side are the newly erected convent of the Franciscan Nuns, and the St. Bridget's Asylum, a sheltering home for the infirm and the orphans of the Irish Catliolic population, with the old Cholera Burying Ground in its rear. A little further on, past the Ladie's Protestant Home and the toll gate, or within an easy ^valk of a mile from the Hotel Victoria are the famous CARREVS GUIDE TO (,UEBEC Z 85 i PLAINS OF ABRAHAM THE scene of the ineinorable battle of the loth Sep- tember 1759, which decided the fate of the French regime in America and upon which fell both Wolfe and Montcalm, mortally wounded. In the old French times, these Plains were much more extensive than they are to-day, extending city-wards, but the lieaviest lighting between the English and the French occurred on that part of them, which still reUiins the name at the present time. This part remains public proj)eity and is now used as a pasturage and a race course. But it is none the less classic ground. On its eastern side stands the monument marking the spot where " Wolfe fell vic- torious " and the following inscription : ** This pillar was erected by the British army iii Canada, ^;, A. D., 1849, His Excellency Lieutenant-General Sir , ^ ,, Benjamin d'Urban being commander of the forces, to replace that erected by Governor-General Lord Aylnier, in 1832, which was broken and defaced and is deposited beneath," ' At the time of the battle, the centre of the French line was in the vicinity of St. Bridget's Asylum, their left wing extending towards the St. Lawrence and the right to the St. Charles Valley, down which they retreated after their defeat. After passing the toll gate, for about a hundred yards, the visitor will be upon the ground occupied by the English centre, the left wing extending towards tlio St. Charles, and the right towards CARREL'S GUIDE TO QUEBEC the St. Lawrence. On the western side of the Plains is the locality known at the time of Wolfe's victory as the Euisseau St. Denis, a brook through whose vale the English ascent was made from the point beneath the cliff, still known as Wolfe's Cove, where he effected the landing from his vessels. The steep and narrow path up the rocky precipice by which he led his devoted followers to the scene of his heroic death and victory is still visible. « riORRIN COLLEGE RETURNING cityw^ards, the quarters of the Quebec Literary and Historical Society in Morrin College on the corner of St. Anne and St. Stanislaus Streets, within a stone's throw of the Hotel Victoria, is well worthy of a visit, as its collection of manuscripts and rare historical documents is extensive and valuable and its library and reading room are exceedingly good. Morrin College, which is a Presbyterian institution, affiliated with McGill University, Montreal, is called after its founder, Dr. Morrin, a former mayor of Quebec. The building, occupied by it, but now greatly enlarged and modernized, was formerly used as the city gaol. Close by, on St. Anne Street, No. 65, is the former private boarding house in which William Dean Howell, the brilliant Boston novelist, WTote in 1873 his charming volume on Quebec scenes "A Chance Acquaintance." -; . ^ - •.:>^ ,, CAURhJUS GUI Die TO (QUEBEC W CONVENTS IN aiUlition to the convents of the Hotel Bieu and the Ursulines, Quebec contains a nmiiber of other interesting^ convents — those of the Grey Nuns or Sisters of Charity, tlie nuns of tlie Good Shei)herd, and the Franciscan nuns in St. John's and St. Louis Suburbs, on the upper levels l)C'yond tlie fortifications, all three ONE OP THE MARTELLO TOWERS. comparatively modern institutions, and those of tbe Congregation nuns, tlie nuns cf the Sacred Heart Hos- pital and the nuns of the General Hospital, situated respectively in the St. Koch's and St. Sauvaair suburbs, the low-lying portion of the city stretching away west from the ruins of the old Intendaiil's paldce at the foot of Palace Hill, below the Hotel Victoria, formerly the seat of the now extinct ^vooden ship building industry S8 CAR REUS GUIDE TO QUEBEC of Quebec and at jnesciit the liome of the great boot and shoe luul leatlier tiuiDing inchistries, for which it is now renowned. Of the last three named institutions, the two first are also co:n[)aratively modern, but the General Hospital nunnery, a cloistered convent, is one of the oldest of its class in Canada, and its buildings are particularly interesting from the fact, that they are the most perfect types still extant, of the old French structures, which have been preserved to pur times. They are extensive and cover a ^arge area on the south- ern bank of tlie St. Charles. This ancient institution was founded })y the second bishcp of Quebec, Mgr de St. Valier, as an asylum for incurable diseases. Jn 1692, it was placed under the charge of the Hospi- taliere Nuns, \\\\o, in 1701, constituted a separated' body from their sisters of the Hotel-Dieu. Near the General Hospital is a wind-mill of a most old-fashioned order and bearin<'' the date 1697. It was used as a fort for the convent. On the opposite side of the river are immense vaults, used at the time of the French for storing provisions. After the battle of the Plains of Abraham, many of the wounded in the fight had their injuries attended to in this convent. Here was also carried Arnold when he was wounded in the American attack on Quebec in 1775. ..... . .^ - ■,:.^; HOSPITALS. ^■^■r:,/y:-''<'s: :': '^^'-"""" IN addition to the hospitjils already mentioned, Quebec also boosts of the JefTery Hale Hospital, an excel- lent and »^ell managed institution for the special accom- CAliRKUS aUlDK TO QUEBEC 89 modation of riotestiuit ])ationts and seamen. This building is situated in St. John Suburb, just beyond the glacis of the fortificatjons, but a new and much more extensive structure fjr it is to be shortly erected further west in the field in which one of the Martello tower* actually stands. The Marine Hospital in St. Roch's, completed in 183-^ by the Government, at a cost of $100,000, with accommodation for 600 patients, was for many years set exclusi\ady apart for the use of juariners and iminigrants l)Ut quite recently it was closed as an hospital, and now serves the purposes of a branch of the Good Shepherd Asylum. It is a very* handsome and striking l)uildinu: in the Ionic order of architecture, and is said to be a copy of the famous- Temple of the Muses, on the river Ilissus, near Athens, Greece. Its site is on the southern bank of the St.. Charles, opposite the spot where Jacques Cartier met Donnacona in 1535. There is also, near the ruins of the Intendant's Palace, a civic hospital for contagious, diseases. PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS TJmong the public institutions of Quebec, may be- ^ particularly mentioned theY. M. C. A., which , has a handsome building on St. John street near St. John's Gate, with fine reading rooms, etc., to which- strangers are made very welcome ; the Women's- Christian Association on St. Anne street; the Finlay Asylum on the St. Foye road, for the aged male poor and orphans of the Church of England ; L'Institut 90 CARHEi:S GUIDE TO QUEBEC Canadien ; the St. Patrick's Literary Institute, which owns a small, but liauflsonio public hall known as the Tara Hall; the Masonic Hall, on St. Louis street; the Academy of Music, the popular local place of amuse- ment on the same street, the St. ]voch's Athletic Asso- ciation in the suburb of that name, the Quebec Ex- change in the Lower Town, the Quebec Bowling and Billiard club on Collins street, etc. CHURCHES TIs already remarked, Quebec is essentially "a city of •^ churches." Apart from those already described, it comprises the following: Catholic. — St. Patrick's churcli, inMcMahon street, close to the Hotel Victoria, founded in 1832 for tlie special use of the Irish Catholic ])0]>u]ation by the celebrated Father ]\[e-Malion and now under the mini- stration of th(^ Pedemptorist Fathers; St. Jean Baptiste church and the cha])els of the Grey Xunnery, Pa- tronage, Franciscan Convent and Good Shepherd, and St. Bridget's Asylums in St. John and St. Louis Suburbs ; the Jesuits' churcb(\s on tbe Esplanade hill and near the St. Foye Toll gate, the St. Uoch's and Congregation churrlies in the St. Poch sul)urb ; the St. Sauveur church, and tbc cha[)el of Our Lady of Lourdes in that section of the city, and the church of Notre-Dame de la Garde, Cham plain street. ProtesTzVNT. — Trinity churcli, (Episco]>al) in St. Stanislaus street, formerl 3^ used by the military ; Me_ I OLD PIIKSCOTT (iATE (Insidk) 92 * CA HREL'S G UIDE TO Q UEBEG thodist church, at the top of the same street; Baptist church, inMcMahon street; St. Andrew's church (Pres- byttriau), in St. Ann street ; Chahners church (Pres- byterian) in St. Ursule street, which was the s6ene of the Gavazzi riot in 1859 ; French Protestant church, in St. John street outside tlie Gate, and St. Matthew's church (Episcopal) in the same street a little further west. There are also Episcopal churches in St. Valier street, St. Rocb's, and in Champlain street, likewise a Scandinavian church in the latter street. THE CEHETERIES THERE is a great deal of historic interest attached to some of Quebec's cemeteries. There are two within the city limits of peculiar attractiveness in this melancholy respect, though they have been long since closed against further interments. One of these is the old churchyard of St. Matthew's Episcopal church in St. John street, in which were interred the Protestant military dead under the British regime, and which among other graves and headstones, contains the re- nnains of Major Thomas Scott, of H. M. 70th regiment, a brother of Sir Walter Scott, author of the Waverley Novels, and himself reputed for a time to have been their author. Off the Grande Al^e, at the head of De Salaberry street, is the old Cholera Burying Ground, in which 8638 victims of the Asiatic cholera in 1832, 1834, 1849, 1851, 1852, and 1854 were interred. Fur- ther west on the Grande Alice, two miles from the toll . CARHEUS aUIDE OF QUEBEC - 93 gate, is Woodfield, the beautiful cemetery of the Irish Catholic dead and Mount Hermon, the splendid " God's Acre," of the Protestant popuhxtion. In one liuge grave in wliich are interred the remains of some 200 Scotch immigrants who lost their lives in the burning of the river steamer Montreal on the 2(3th June, 1857, at Cap Eouge, a few miles above the cemetery, while on the wav from Quebec to Montreal. Anotlier famous tirave in it, is that of John Wilson, the famous Scottish vo- calist, wlio, in tlie *' forties," delighted tlie people of the British Isks, the United States and Canada, with his inimitable rendering of Scottish songs and recitations. He fell a victim to the dread scourge, cholera, in Quebec, in 1849. The French Canadians have also three beautiful cemeteries on the city's outskirts, at Belmont on the St. I'^oye road, and on tlie Little River road, LOWER TOWN THE portion of the city beneath the cliff, on its front, ^ towards the St. Lawrence is called the Lower Town, and is the chief commercial or wholesale busi- ness quarter. It contains the head offices of the different banks and of the great timber exporting firms, whole- sale dry goods and provision houses, the Exchange, the Custom House, the Champlain and Finlay markets, the famous Louise embankment, cross-wall and docks, grain elevators, &c. It is chiefly remarkable for the antiquated style of its buildings, and its narrow streets, many of which date back to the old French time. It 94 CAR It ELS aUlDE TO QUhBEG was also in this quaiter of the city, at barricades erected by the British, that some of the heaviest fighting occur- red during Monlgoniery and Arnohrs night attack in 1775. The old ''lireak Neck Steps," loading from Mountain Hill into Little Chaniplain street, was for many years another interesting feature of the Lower Town, but within a recent period they have had to yiehl to the re(|uirements of local traffic and have been rephiced by a l)road and more commodious iron stair- way, at the foot of which, there is a steam elevator that tak'es the visitor up over the face of the cliff and lands him on Duft'erin Terrice. THE OLDEST BUILDING IN QUEBEC TIIK oldest building at Quebec of which reliable re- cord exists, is that at the corner of St. Louis and Garden street, now occupied by Mr. J. Williams, ton- sorial and capillary artist. Tlie late Mr. Glackemeyer, N. P., had in his possession a deed of its transfer on November oOth, 1674. It is this House which (in 1750) was occupied by Surgeon Arnoux, who attended Gen- eral Montcabn on liis death-bed. Montcalm died in this house and was liid out there, thence carried to his grave in the Ursuline (convent) chapel. It is also be- lieved that the articles of capitulation (of Quebec) were signed in this house. The Chateau St. Louis was too much exposed to the guns of the English during the siege to admit of its being used as previously for official purposes. OLD PRESCOTT GATE (Outside) « * THE ENVIRONS ♦ ♦ 5^ nTriE almost world-wide repute of Quebec is, liow- *^^^ ever, not merely co;i fined to the old city, but is largely shared also, by its beaut-ful and historic envi- rons. Indeed, there are few cities in the world, which can boast of so many natural and artificial objects of attraction in this respect. The drives around the city are as numerous as they are delightful, and tlie views to be had from them, are absolutely unsurpassed in loveliness and variety. In fact, it can be truly said of Quebec, that its surroundings are not excelled, or even equalled, for romantic beauty of picturesque wildness. There is scarcely a stand })oint from which the visitor has not before him a glorious panorama and he cannot be said to have really seen and enjoyed Quebec until he has done all the sights of the environs, as well as those of the city itself. At least, a day should be given to each of the charming drives around the city. These drives mavbe divided into four, ^^^-'m-^-i^ _^.==^=>:^ with an additional X^^'^T^^^im ^'"^y devoted to a lide K J^ ^j^^&P^l^ii^ over the Quebec & y^ '*mu^j^^ - ' Montmorency Eail- — ^^^^"^^^""^ way to the far famed mir- acle- work inn' shrine of La Bonne Ste. Anne, and another to a tour of Levis, its forts, and other object of historic or natural interest. Run Down. ! tnl"^^^^^ ^'°'^''»&' regulating I time ft *"^F' °' " ^o^'t feeep I ume_it will run down. It is ABBEY'S Effervescent Salt Wlt/^i *l^«y« be in good l8k vonfn ? ^[''"^ condition. and thf w^T,"""^ prescribe it ana tlie Hospitals use it. no«t Excellent Results. ^Signed) Dr. J. Emile FoRTiER. PBEC mm mim The TOUiaST ROUTE between • • • passing through the heart ai Tina _ _ «„eb.o and «.«. .U 8H.^^JJ^^^^* «-^^^ t>eiu« the direct rOT^te for all ^^ew J!.fl8«* tr- Quebec .nd SpringaeW. <-H»« '"*''^-.^- ''• «' * ^ '*• *" i^ueDwoa F "^^^yiorGftTB lot New York. VM f^iria between QtttJfeee wcd^^ Onlyl^n^r.^nrsolj^ -^ ^ *«ia«^ tourist gtrides and aUinfo^ *<> . Fo^time tahles^folder^ touristgu ^ ^ ^^^^^^^^ P, B. MCILL, * Qjty gj Diet. Ageat, 0cn'l. Pttw**r« A«***^*' v Sherbio**^. Qtt«- - y CAR REUS GUIDE TO QUEBEC 97 MONTHORENCY FALLS THE lir3t drive recommended to the visitor, is that to the world-renowied Falls of Moutmorency, about nine miles below Quebec, and one of the most inte- resting of all the natural objects in its vicinity, which no stranger leaves without seeing. Starting from the Hotel Victoria and passing on the way the ruins of the old Palace of the French Intendants, the tourist tra- verses Dorchester Bridge, which ?pans the river St. Charles, and reaches the quaint old, straggling and picturesque village of Beauport, which is beautified by rows of white cottages and garden patches, aiid affords a very striking illustration of primitive French Cana- dian life and manners. It stretches nearly the whole distance from the Dorchester Bridge, with the famous Beauport Lunatic Asylum in its centre, and like a huge prehistoric monster, it lies along the shore of the river, with its head resting on the bridge over the St. Charles, and its tail lashing into foam the wonderful Falls of the Montmorency river, 100 feet higher than the great cataract of Niagara. On the site of the vil- lage, or rather between it and the beach, was fought the battle of the 31st July, 17f)9, between the English and French, in which the latter were victorious and the former lost 182 killed and 665 wounded and missing. The headquarters of Montcalm were to the right after passing over the stream, but the manor house, in which they were established, was burnt a short time ago. After the taking of Quebec, the English avenged 7 98 CAR RE US GUIDE TO QUEBEC themselves by sacking and firing not only the village of Beauport, but also the villages of L'Ange-Gardien, Chateau Eicher, Ste. Anne and Baie St. Paul, and destroying all the crops in the country around. After the destruction of the old manor house, a plate was found on the corner stone with the following ins- cription in Itonian capitals: " L'an 1634, le 29 juillet, j'ai 6ld plantc premiere, P. C. Gifakt, seigneur de ce lieu." Above it were the letters 1. H. S. and also M. J. A. representing the names Mary, Joseph and Ann, Beneath it was a heart with three stars and a smaller heart reversed. This plate is in the possession of Mr. Herman Ryland, who has built a residence on the site of the old manor house. It would be impossible to give an accurate description of the beauty, the ma- jesty, the thundering might of the falls, either in winter or in summer. Down a precipice of over two hundred and fifty feet, the Montmorency Eiver plunges into tlie St. Lawrence, and, as if recoiling after its terrible fall, it bends back in spray, that when frozen, leaves a cone fifty feet high, in winter, between the torrent behind and the sheet of ice in. front. The cata- ract may be seen either from above or below. To view it from below, the visitor must descend what is called the Zig-Zag Hill, which passes through Mr. Price's property, and in doing so he is reminded that the resi- dence thereon was once occupied by the Duke of Kent, the father of Her Majesty Queen Victoria. On reaching the foot of the hill we can pass along the beach till we arrive, as it were, almost underneath the avalanche of waters, while the spray therefrom descends in a sort of 100 CAR If EL'S GUI Dm TO QUE /J EC drizzling .shower, and through which, if the sun be shining, the brightly lined rainbow can be seen bathing its colors in the frenzied cataract. The body of water which, from the height of 250 feet leaps its precipice passes, it is said, through a subterran(5an passage, and rises in a tumultuous ninuner near the end of the Island of Orleans, gaining the name of Le Taureau, by boatmen considered a dangerous spot. The view above the Falls is taken from the opposite side, the visitor passing over the Montmorency bridge, then through a field opposite the hotel and for which a charge is made, and down a stairway to a platform which directly overlooks the Falls. The mad turbulence of the water and the deafening roar which ever seems to increase is almost bewildering, and the dizzy height at which one is placed causes a certain amount of uneasiness and sense of danger. There is wildness all round, the high cliffs, with overhanging trees and bushes, and the violence of the rapids, rivet the imagination with resist- less fascination. On both sides of the river are the remnants of two towers, between which was suspended a bridge, which fell- nearly forty years ago, carrying with it an unfortunate countryman, his wife, child, horse and vehicle, whose remains were never after- wards discovered. ' -. , NATURAL STEPS. ;' : TJ BY-WAY road through the fields, leads the visitor «/i to the Natural Steps, which, by some, are con- sidered the grandest feature of the scene. Nothing CARREL'S GUIDE TO QUEBEC 101 more wild and weird can l>e imagined than this mad river with its perpendicular precipices on each side, clothed with tufts of shrubbery and whose summits are fringed witli overhanging pines, which watch, as it were, over tlie threatening waters, now leaping over huge rocks and forming furious cascades, anon, seeth- ing, moody, silent pools, whoso blackness makes night look pale. Here tlie waters eddy round in ever quickening circles, raisiug in their wrath bubbles and froth to the surface, and suddenly leaping onward be- neath the overhanging cliffs. Where the visitor stands shady nooks hidden in ferns and wild plants, invite to rest, while the peculiar formation of the rocks serves as tables for pic-nic collations. In the summer, these Natural Steps are the resort of pleasure parties, and the followers of Izaak Walton can t(3nipt from the angry torrent, the most delicious speckled trout. Xear by is the fairy river, which mysteriously disappears beneath the earth and again as mysteriously re-appears. It is also called TEau Tenue. T L'ANGE GARDIEN. HE village of TAnge Gardien is about four miles beyond Montmorency, and as above stated, was destroyed by Wolfe's soldiery after the battle of Beau- port in 1759." There are some good trout fishing streams at a short distance and, in tha autumn, snipe and partridge shooliug. 102 CARREL'S GUIDE TO QUEBEC CHATEAU RICHER. THIS village is about five miles further down. In the fruit season the orchards of I'Ange Gardien are so laden, that along the road the green color of the trees is hidden by the purple of the plum, and the roseate hue of the apple. At about four miles distance to the south of Chateau Eiclier, are the beautiful falls called Sault i\ la Puce, which are not only enchanting in their scenery, but abound in trout. The Chateau Richer beach, is famous as a snipe ground, and in Sep- tember and October numberless sportsmen make good bags. The second drive which the visitor should take is out by the Grande Allee and St. Louis road nnd back by the St. Foye road. On the way, the Plains of Abra- ham, already described, are passed, as are also Spencer Wood, the beautiful sylvan residence of the former Governors General of Canada and at ])resent of the Lieutenant-Governors of the Province of Quebec, and the two interestiusj cemeteries * f Woodfield and Mount Hermon, already referred to. The Sillery Convent, called the Convent of Jesus Marie, and the church of St. Columl a, stand on the heights above Sillery, where in times past there were camps of the Algonquin tribes of Indians, at that time protected by the French from their foes the Iroquois. In connection with the Indian settlement, was the discovery, a short time since, of the remains of the Jesuit Missionary, Emmanuel Masse, who was buried there in 1646, and to whose memory a monument has been erected by several citizens. CARREL'S GUIDE TO QUEBEC 103 A church was built on the spot by the Commander Brulart de Sillery, in 1677. Cap Eouge, where the St. Louis road effects a junction with the St. Foye road, is another beautiful and interesting historic point. It was there that Jacques Cartier's followers wintered in the early days before tlie foundation of Quebec. Returning cityward by the St. Foye road, the spectator commands a gr'^nd view of the St. Charles valley, the St. Lawrence below Quebec, while in fine weather, the spray from Montmorency falls is clearly discernible. On the left of the road, two miles from tlie city, is Hol- land House, interesting not only from its having been the headquarters of Mont- gomery in the siege of 1775, but from some romantic in- cidents connected with the family from which it de- rived its name, the ashes of some of whom bave found a resting place in the rear of the building. Near St. Foye church, about 5 miles from town, are the remains of a redoubt erected by the English on their first taking possession of Quebec. J,.M...-/^'" A HABITANT. 104 C AUREUS GUIDE TO QUEBEC ST. FOYE MONUHENT. TJeoI'T one mile from the city, the visitor comes •^ upon lie scene of the battle of St. Foye, fought in 1760, between the French under De Levis and the English under Murray, and in which the latter were defeated. A handsome monument marks the spot. This mo lument, which was erected by the St. Jean Baptiste Soc ety of Quebec, to the memory of the brave men who fell on both sides, is of iron on a stone base and surmounted by a statue of Bellonii, the goddess of war, the gift of Prince Napoleon. Four bronze can- nons are placed at each corner of the pedestal. The monument bears the following inscription : Aux braves de 1760. Erige par la Society St-Jean-Baptiste de Quebec, 1860. On the right side ara ilic arms of England and the name of Murray, the Governor of Quebec. On the left side is the name of L^vis, wlio commanded the French, and the arms of old France. On the opposite side is a btis relief of Dumont's Mill and the arms of Canada. This monument was inau(?urated with grreat ceremony, on the 19th of October, 1862, by Lord Monck, then Governor-General of Canada, and an elo- quent discourse was given on the occasion by the Hon. P. J. O. Chauveau. The third drive recommended is that by way of the Charlesbourg road, also across Dorchester Biidge and the river St. Charles. This is also a very beautiful road, affording especially a magnificent view of nearly the whole city. CARREVS GUIDE TO QUEBEC 105 FORT JACQUES CARTIER THIS is one of the principal spots of historic interest (•n this road and is marked by a massive stone monument erected in 1888, at the confluence of the little river Lairet with the St. Charles, where Jacques Cartier spent the winters of 1535-36, with the crews of his little shi])s, the Grande Hermine and the Petite Hermine, and erected his first fort immediately opj)osite the Indian encampment of Stadacona, of which Dona- cona was the chief. On the 3rd of May, 1536, three days before his return uo France, Cartier erected a large cross, 35 feet high, at this place. This cross bore the arms of the King of France and the inscription : *' FRANCISCUS PRIMUS DEI GRATIA FRANCORUM REX REGNAT." A substantial cross, bearing a similar inscription, was erected upon the same site in 1888. Ninety years after Cartier spent his first winter here, the site of the earliest building erected in Canada by Europeans, became that of the first Jesuit monastery in New France. Close by, on the grounds of Mr. G. H. Parke, is Eingtield, the site of one of Montcalm's fortified camps, the lines C'f which can still be made out. Further on, upon the first foothills of the Laurentian Mountains, stands the villaoje of Charlesbouri^, where the terrified women and children found refuge during the sieges of Quebec. At a distance of some four miles to the east- ward of it, at the foot of La Montague des Ormes, are the ruins of ■•* -1 CAR RE us GUIDE TO QUEBEC 107 CHATEAU BIGOT SOMETIMES called Beaunianoir or the Hermitage ; ruins which can now but faintly give an idea of wl at the original building was, of its grandeur, of its extent, of its secret passages or its form. Two gables and a centre wall, or rather the remuants of them, are visible, and from the fact of there being a sort of clearance, now partly overgrown, we may pre- sume that there was a garden. Ensconced in the midst of a forest on one of the slopes of the Laurentides are these relics of the past and one cannot but be impressed with deep melancholy as bis eyes rest, upon this deserted spot, and his fancy re-peoples the shattered halls and chambers, with the giddy and guilty throngs which once crowded them. History has given some few^ indistinct data and imagination has done the rest for this story of the past. The Intendant Bigot, whose profligacy and extravagance were unlimited, and whose rapacity supplied his requirements, constructed this chateau in the wilds of the mountains, and hither, with companions as graceless as himself, he was wont to adjourn to indulge in every excess of dissipation. The Intendant was a man fond of field sports, and the chateau \ ^,s the headquarters of his hunting expeditions. It is said that on one of these he lost his way, and met a young Algonquin squaw of singular beauty, who led him to the chateau, and being induced to enter its walls, its strong doors were closed against her egress, and she remained there a prisoner either to love or to fate. But the Intendant was a man of mark in the 108 CARREL'S GUIDE TO QUEBEC colony, a man to satisfy the longings of any ambitions girl who might wish for power, and such a one there was in the city of Quebec, wlio was determined to have the Intendant as her lord, that she as wife, might rule in New France, and punish those who had slighted her. Such a one, it is said by Mr. Kirby, in his historical romance. " The Golden Dog," was Angelique Des Meloises ; and she had heard of the Indian maid at Beaumanoir. Murder Avas a trifle to such natures as hers, wholly absorbed by ambition ; one night a piercing cry was heard echoing through the halls and corridors of Beaumanoir, and Caroline, the unhappy Algonquin, was found stabbed and dead. Not long since was to be seen her gravestone in a vault of Beaumanoir, with but the letter C engraved thereon. It is said that the unhappy Caroline was not of full Indian race, but that her father by marriage, was an ofhcer of high rank in the army of France. Such is the story, not the first nor the last con- nected with this place, which has been replete with guilt and caused much sorrow. If the visitor cares to extend his drive further along the Charlesbourg road, he can visit two beautiful sheets of water, lake Beauport and lake St. Charles, the latter the head of the city water works, and both fa- vorite resorts of local trout anglers. , , v CARREUS GUIDE TO QUEBEC 109 LORETTE THE fourth drive suggested is to Indian Lore tte, which can be taken eiilier by the way of Charlesbourg or the Little River road, Lorelte distant about nine miles from Quebec, close by the beautiful falls of the river St. Charles. Here will be found the remnant of the ore ) powerful Hurons, who, af er the treacherous massacre of their tribe \ by the Iroquois, sought refuge near \ Quebec, and, adopting- the religion and language of the early French s t tiers, allied tl emseh es with them in resisting the incursions of the common enemy. The village was lirst settled in 1697. And a very interesting sight it is. It also can be reached by the trains of the Quebec and Lake St. John Railway, which has a station in its centre. LA BONNE STE. ANNE M visitor to Quebec should omit to make the trip to J » the far famed shrine of Ste. Anne de Beaupre or La Bonne Ste. Anne as it is called, which can be effected in a few hours by the comfortable and speedy trains of the Quebec and Montmorency Railway, whose terminus in the city is quite close to the Hotel Victoria. Ste. Anne de Beauprt5 lies below the Falls of Montmo- rency, twenty-one miles from Quebec. For over 250 Indian Chief. no CARREUS GUIDE TO QUEBEC years, it has been the Mecca of devout pilgrims seeking restoration of health and miraculously obtaining it. Tradition relates that in the early part of the seventeenth century some Breton mariners, who were overtaken by a violent storm while navigating the St. Lawrence, solemnly vowed to Ste. Anne that, if delivered from the dangers which encompassed them, they would erect a sanctuary in her honor on the spot on which they should land. Their prayers being heard, they built a small wooden chapel in fulfilment of their vows, which has since become famous, and which then, as now, was called by her name. The jjrimitive little church was replaced by a larger structure in 16C0, which, sub- sequently rebuilt and enlarged, finally gave way to the present magnificent edifice, which was raised to the dignity of a Basilica by Pope Pius IX. It is a fine specimen of Corinthian architecture and is of immense proportions. A colossal statue of St. Anne of marvel- lous beautey surmounts the facade between twin towers rising to a great height. The interior of the sacred edifice rivals the most famous cathedrals in the world in beauty and imposing grandeur. On each side of the entrance are large pyramids of crutches and canes and trusses and splints left by former owners as mute testimony of the saint's intervention on their behalf. There is also another statue of St. Anne, resting on a column of white marble, to which some deeply vener- ated relics are attached — a fragment of a finger bone of the saint procured by Laval, the first Bishop of New France ; a part of the saint's wrist sent by Leo XIII ; and a portion of the rock from the grotto in which St, 112 CARREL'S GUIDE TO QUEBEC Anne gave birth to the Virgin Mary. The "sacred stairs," which the zealous supplicants ascend upon their knees, is built in imitation of Pilate's Palace at Jerusalem, and the magnificent paintings and statuary represent the life of Christ from Bethlehem to Calvary. Thousands of tourists visit Ste. Anne de Beaupr(^ impelled by the curious scenes witnessed there and the costly works of art possessed by the sanctuary ; and the high esteem in which the patron saint is held is showni by the remarkable increase in the perennial pilgrimages to her shrine. In 1874 there were 17,200 visitors fin 1884, 61,000; in 1889, 100,000; in 1893, 130,000 and 1894, 200,000, which number was largely exceeded in 1095. Formerly the pilgrimages were from the province of Quebec only ; but now they are from the other provinces of Canada and from the United States. Good hotel accommodation is provided for visitors. A few miles below the famous slpine are the beautiful falls of the St. Anne river, known as the " Three Falls," which are also well worth a visit. ISLAND OF ORLEANS • THE Island of Orleans, or the Isle of Bacchus, as it was first called, or Minego by the Indians, or Isle des Sorciers by the credulous, is reached by ferry from Quebec, as soon as navigation opens, and is a favorite summer retreat of the Quebecers. Its history is replete with stirring events. Wolfe took possession of it in 1759 and his troops ransacked it from end to end. Tife villages of St. Pierre, Ste. Famille, St. Jean, St. ?' ^■•■f, -.*".■ l i^ :; :c :; :; :; :; :; ;; :; ;; ;; :; :; ;; ;; ^ Quebec, 7Vloil^inoP6i|c9i AND Giarievoi^^-i' Railwaj, TO THE CELEBRATED FALLS of nONTHORENCY THE Famous Shrine of Ste. Anne de Beaupre. AND THE . . .GRAND CAP TOURMEXTE. . . A trip that no Tourist visiting the birth-place of Canada should miss. 10 — TRAINS DAILY.— 10 i Tickets for sale at the ticket agencies and the hotels. U H. J. BEEMEB, J*resident . X__i A J__ . .1 W. B. BUSSELL, Superintendent. ^^ • < ^ '■"'■■■ ' ■ CLARENDON HOTEL THE BEST LOCATION IN THE CITY .<^. OPPOSITE THE... City Hall and the English Cathedral. RATES - - $2,00 and $2.50. Mrs. M. J. PELLETIER, Proprietress. JOS. LEQARE, Manager. C AUREUS GUIDE TO QUEBEC 113 Laurent and St. Francois, are all flourishinjjr, and their churches date frotn the old times or have heen replaced by modern edifices. A steamer called the " Orleans " runs daily l:>etween Quebec and the island for the con- venience of strangers. The views of Quebec and the Montmorency falls, in fact of all the surroundings, are very fine, while the delightful walks and drives through the woods and along the beach are a constant source of pleasure. LEVIS ^ 71 VISIT to Point L^vis, opposite Quebec, and especially v* to the three great military forts there already described is exceedingly interesting. The Government Graving dock and the military camp at St. Joseph, a couple of miles to the eastward of the town, are also worth seeing, while within a short distance to the west- ward are the beautiful falls of the Etchemin, and Chau- di^re rivers, and the very prettily frescoed and handsome church of St. Romuald, or New Liverpool. The views from L(^vis are also magnificent. It was from its heights that the English bombarded Quebec in 1759 and it was down the valley of the Chaudi^re swarmed Arnold and his braVe followers in 1775, and on the banks of the river they first looked upon the city which eventually proved their prison or their grave. The junction station of the Intercolonial, Quebec Central and Grand Trunk Railways is in the town of Levis, immediately opposite Quebec, and reached in a few minutes from the city by the fine ferry over the St. Lawrence. 8 \--.i 1. -HABITANT INTERIOR.— (Near Quebec). LOWER ST. LAWRENCE [ Vrf the visitor desirous of extending his trip below ''-^^ Quebec and enjoying the cool, reinvigorating breezes and the magnificent scenery of the Lower St. Lawrence and the far-famed Saguenay river, the tour by the splendid palace steamers of the Eichelieu and Ontario Navigation Company to Chicoutimi and back is parti- cularly recommended. On the way, he will see much to charm and interest him — Grosse Isle, Canada's (jua- rantine station, a speck of green in the purple scarf of the St. Lawrence, recalling sad memories of '47 and '48, when the scarlet bird of fever hung over it and tliousands of poor Irish emigrants found their last rest- ing place beneath its wins: ; Bale St. Paul and Les Eboulements, pretty summer resorts ; Murray Bay, Kamouraska and River du Loup, favorite watering ])laces ; Cacouna, the " Saratoga " of Canada, with its splendid St. Lawrence Hall, the home of comfort and hixury and Tadousac, at the mouth of the Saguenay, 130 miles from Quebec, probably the most interesting historic spot in Canada from the fact that it was not only the first settlement and trading post of the French on this continent, but also the place where the first Christian church was built and where the great Jesuit discoverer, Father Marc^uette, resided for some time. 115 116 CARREUS GUIDE TO QUEBEC Tadoiisac is also a delightful watering place, where Lord Dvifferin, a former Governor-General, spent a large portion of his holidays and where there is a splendid hotel, which, under its present ownership and manage- ment by the Richelieu and Ontario Naviofation Com- pany, cannot fail to become immensely popular. THE SAQUENAY RIVER THERE is probably nothinj.'^ grander than a sail up the world-renowned River Saguenay. On each side are the towering and precipitous cliffs, while beneath roll the dark waters of this mysterious river, which partakes of a gloomy and almost hideous charac- ter. One might imagine himself on the river Styx, and when now and again a seal is seen to appear on the surface, one reverts to Dante's Inferno and dreams that a lost soul is plunging in the dark river. The sombre appearance of the river is deepened by the frowning Capes Eternity and Trinity, which rise per- pendicularly to a dizzy height. A colossal statue of the Madonna is placed on the summit of Cape Eternity, at whose base is erected a small chapel. No one should miss a sail on this wild stream. Ha ! Ha ! or Grand Bay is a beautiful ex| nse of water, 60 miles from the mouth, and ten miles south of Chicoutimi, a pretty little town, now lighted with electricity and the seat of the great lumber industry of the district. From this point the visitor can either return to Quebec by the steamer or by the Chicoutimi extension of the Lake St. John Railway, which will take him to I GARREUS GUIDE TO QUEBEC tlT LAKE ST. JOHN THE great inland sea of the province of Quebec and 'the centre of the famous 0Ma/^aA^u7te fishing grounds, to Roberval, where the new and magnificent Hotel Ro- berval, with all its luxurious appointments, opens its doors to welcome him and where he can, after a comfort- able meal and rest, take the regular train of the Lake St. John Railway, with its elegant parlor cars, to con- vey him back expeditiousl}' to old Quebec through the very heart of THE CANADIAN ADIRONDACKS 71 REGION as remarkable for the wild grandeur of its *^ scenery as it is famed for the great size, ^beauty and gameness of the trout that abound in its myriad lakes and streams, and the abundance of the deer and other game to be found in its forests. Half way between Roberval and Que- bec, at Lake EJ- ward, one of the famous trout fish- ing lakes in this re- gion, there is an excellent hotel, the - "^-^.i V:. ■^^S^j^^^^ OUr-OF-DOOll OVEX. Laurentides House, for the use of anglers and travellers. Lake St. Joseph, some 25 miles from the city, is also a beautiful and attractive sheet of water both for the angler and the lover of the picturesque. The stationof the Lake St. John R'y. is also in the vicinity of the Hotel Victoria. 118 CARREUS GUIDE TO QUEBEC LEAVING QUEBEC THE choice of route on leaving Quebec depends «lto- ,^^ , getber upon the direction in which the visitor is going. But, if he has come by rail and is returning west- ward, he is advised by all means to go back by the river to Montreal by the splendid boats of the Kichelieu line, which will afford him an opportunity of enjoying the beautiful scenery of the St. Lawrence above Quebec, besides many points of historic interest on its banks that would be otherwise missed. If he has come to Quebec by the river, then he is recommended to return w^est wards by the Grand Trunk Eailway, which will also take him southwards from EicLinond and enable him to see another new section of the countrv and it 3 manifold beauties, or the Canadian Pacitic Eailway on the north shore, which will give him connections with the west. The Quebec Central Eailway is the most direct route to the New England States from Levis, and the Intercolonial Eailway affords the most direct outlet to the Maritime Provinces of New Brunswick, Nova Scotia and Prince Edward Island. But, by whatever route he goes, he cannot fail to carry away with him tiie most delightful memories of Quebec, the quaint old city on the St. Lawrence, which '* — gleams above her granite throne, Her graj' walls gird lier ample zone. She queens the North, supreme, alone " II.— HABITANT INTERIOR.— (Near Qukbec). ■U:-') ■- TOUR OF THE SAQUENAY '^TTHERE are many objects of interest to note in "-^^ making this excursion. In leaving Quebec, there is a fine view of the city and harbor from the promenade deck of the steamer. Cape Diamond, with its citadel and battlements, the city surrounding the same on all sides, its domes and spires, the ramparts and batteries . crowning this thriving town, the fertile plains of Beauport in the foreground, lend an enchant- ment to the sight seldom found ; also the harbor im- provements ; the Louise Tidal Basin, the largest on this continent. Looking across on the south side, opposite Quebec, there stands the growing town of L^vis, of about 10,000 inhabitants, being the terminus of the Grand Trunk Railway, the Quebec Central, and Intercolonial Railways ; the terminus also of the Royal Mail Ocean Steamers. A little back of the town stand the celebrated fortifications built by the Imperial Government. There is also a graving dock, the most extensive in size in America. The " Mont- morency Falls " charm the beholder as the steamer swiftly glides by. Then turning from the city, we see the Island of Orleans, which Jacques-Cartier in 1536 christened the *' Isle of Bacchus," so called from the luxuriant growth of its wild grape vines. It is situated nine miles below Quebec ; it is twenty miles in length 120 . CAHREUS GUIDE TO QUEBEC 121 and six in its greatest width. There are several villages scattered over its surface : its soil is very fertile ; it rises to a considerable elevation at its western extre- mity, the high land being fully 350 feet above the water level. There are numerous Catholic churches and one Protestant. The total population of the island is between 6,000 and 7,000. A ferry steamer plies regularly between tha city and the island. CAPE TOURMENT 71 s soon as the Isle of Orleans is passed, tliis cape is •^ well seen ; it rises to an altitude of about 2,000 feet. On the highest elevation a cross was erected in 1616, which was replaced by a small chapel erected in 1870. Below this island tlie salt water commences. GROSSE ISLE Is now seen in full view ; it is noticeable as being the quarantine station for Quebec. Many islands are now passed of remarkable scenic beauty and very fertile, and renowned for the quantity of game of all sorts which flock to them in season. At this point the river widens considerably and here long has reached such a width as to render its shores almost invisible from the deck of the steamer. Passing onward, we view Bale St. Paul and Isle aux Coudres, wiiich ia remarkable for its rich iron mines. All along the route the river presents one continuous panorama of the wildest scenery, only second to the noble Saguenay Kiver, 122 CARRE US GUIDE TO QUEBEC .:v,>,u. ;..,- ..; .: HURRAY BAY ' - '^ *' IS now reached, a favorite watering-place of the Lower St. Lawrence. The village is picturesquely situated amid frowning hills and wild scenery. This is a favorite summer resort for the fashionable world and also for families, the accommoda- tion being unsurpassed — comfortable hotels, well- furnished and well-arm n^- ed boarding-houses, also numerous cottaQ;es which are rented to visitors. Here also is a valuable mineral spring, whose waters arep highly recommended to ^ invalids ; it possesses also good sea bathing and fine bracing air. It is renowned as* a sporting-place both for anglers and field sports, surrounded by nuQierous lakes, all well stocked with the splendid trout usually supplied on board the com- pany's Saguenay steamer. Some miles below Murray Bay THE PILGRinS 71 RE seen. They consist of a remarkable group of ^*^ rocks which from their height are visible at a great distance, the "mirage" seeming constantly to An Old Habitant. CARRE us GUIDE TO QUEBEC 123 dwell about them, due to refraction of the sun's rays owing to the rocks being sparsely covered with vegeta- tion. Steaming across the river. RIVIERE DU LOUP IS reached, situated on th;' south sliore. Connection is made with tlie Tnlercolonial Kailwav. Tourists to or from the Atlantic States or Provinces, via Hnlifax or St. John, take leave of us here. Tliosc desirous of visit- ing the far-famed watering-place of CACOUNA CAN, after an exceedingly pleasant drive of about six miles, bordering the sea shore, find themselves in a fashionable resort containing a splendid hotel, situated on the heights crowning the renowed Cacouna Bay. There are two very fine water-falls at Kiviere-du-Loup. ^ Leaving the wharf, the boat points her course again to the opposite shore, and in less than two hours we find ourselves at TADOUSAC WHICH is at the mouth of the far-famed Saguena)^ This is a very pleasant spot. There is a fine hotel at the head of the Bay which will accommodate 150 guests, with every convenience, and in connection with it all kinds of sports for the amusement of visitors. Within three or four miles in the interior there are numerous small lakes abounding with trout, and be- tween Tadousac and St. Etienne, on the Saguenay ■*,! III.— HABITANT INTERIOR.— (Near Quebec). ->-,r-.' CARRE us GUIDE TO QUEBEC 125 River, there is very good sea-trout fishing — free to all. Visitors can be supplied with boats and guides. The company's issue of tickets to the Saguenay afTords ample time for tourists to lay over. Tickets are good for the season. There are numerous lakes also around Baie St. Paul, Ha ! Ha ! Bay, and Murray Bay, where tine trout fishing can be had. The accommodation at those places is very good. The bathing at this place is very superior. A large number of villas have been erected, including one built by His Excellency Eail Dufferiu, now owned by Sir K. Cameron, of New York, Tadousac is interesting from its having been from an early period the capital of the French settlements, and one of their chief trading-posts. The great white hotel throws its shadow over the little two- hundred-year-old chapel of the Jpsuits, which stands at the foot of its lawn still preserved in all the sim- plicity of its time. Here are the ruins of a Jesuit establishment, and on this spot once stood the first stone and moitar building ever erected in America, the home of Father Mar- quette, the explorer of the river Mississippi. A cluster of pine trees over 200 years old has grown from the centre of these historical ruins. Getting aboard again, we now really enter the justly renewed Saguenay. Atevervturn of the boat, some new attraction is discov- ered ; our eyes are strained that we may catch a^glimpse of all the magnificent grandeur that now bursts upon us. Father Marquette. 126 CARREL'S GUIDE TO QUEBEC THE SAQUENAY RIVER Is unquestionably one of the most remarkable river* of the continent. Its waters are very clear and abound in a great variety of fine fish. The scenery is wild and romantic in the liighest degree. The first half of its course averages half a mile in width, and runs through an almost untrodden wilderness. This wonderful river seems one huge mountain, rent asunder at remote ages by some great convulsion of nature. The shores are composed principally of granite, and every bend ])resents to view an imposing bluft'. The capes show a long perspective of steps, high mountain walls, divided by gullies. • ^ ^ CAPES ETERNITY AND TRINITY 71 RE worthy of note. The first rises to a height of J^ 1,900 feet, and the other to 1,800 feet, If the only recompense for the visit to the Saguenay was a sight of these stupendous promontories, with Cape Eternity showing its triple crown facing the bay, its triple steps leading up from the river, the cross and the statue of the Holy Virgin, recently erected on the mountain, and the immense precipice rising out of the water, — we are sure no visitor would regret it. The steamer shuts off' steam when approaching these capes, and the captain shapes his course to give the passengers the best view. The echo produced by blowing the steam-wdustle is very fine. The water is said to be over 1,000 feet deep at the base of the rocks. Cape Eternity CARREVS GUIDE TO QUEhEO 127 is by far the most imposing. Nothing can surpass the magnificent sahnon fishing of the Marguerite and other streams. As the boat glides up the Kiver Saguenay, HA I HA 1 BAY Is reached, which is sixty miles from its mouth. It is- a magnificent bay. The name arises from the circumstance of early navigators, who, not finding landing and anchorage until reaching this bay, at last broke out laughing, Ha! Ha! when touching bottom with their anchors. Good fishing and first-claSs hotel accommodation can be had here. The fine views of the magnificent bay and the surrounding scenery are truly grand. The journey ends at CHICOUTIMI THE most important part of the Saguenay, at the head of the navigation, situated about seventy miles from the St. Lawrence. The town numbers about 3,000 souls, is built along the right ^ ^^ ■ m . Mm. '"^iiUS^ Jl shore of the river ; ^ / numerous saw mills ' Wj-^jf.^ ^^r^^J^B^HSiiB^^"'-j|^ -^>\^i- are at one end, and ^^vM^llSt ^Bii^WEM^^^ at the other the com- manding cathedral, seminary, convent, and the bishop's pal- ace. From this place ^;r--*- Quebec Cariole. 128 CARRE US GUIDE TO QUEBEC the return journey commences, and passes over again all the glorious scenes which we had before enjoyed. This beautiful trip is easy of accomplishment. The fine comfortable steamers Carolina, Canada and Saguenay are running regularly to Ha ! Ha ! Bay and Chicoutimi during the pleasure travel, and one steamer during the whole season of navigation. The pleasure seeker will experience all the comfort and accommoda- tion necessary for the full enjoyment of such a trip. ' (O YE ANCIENT WOOD-DRIVER. The ROL LAND PAPER Co , MANUFACTURERS OF Extra Fine PAPERS. TUB SIZED and LOFT DRIED Branch: 76 St. Paul St., Quebec, EMIL-E TRUDEL, Manager. SUPERFINE LINEN RECORD. 1 e. ,; \r ir^ CANADIAN LINEN LEDGER. } ^^rrrily No. 1 Ledger. EARNSCLIFFE LINEN BOND. \The foremost of STANDARD PURE LINEN. J No. 1 Limn, CROWN LINEN. — Excellent qualify of Linen. ROLLAND SUPERFINE. \ Extra Superfine DONNACONA. / Wove High Finifih. CANADA. — Extra Fine Wove. These papers are xinsurpasscd for quality and uniformity and are acknowledged to equal the fluest Imported papers. Ask your Stationer or Printer for them . A. Grenier, 94 & 96, St John St.. Corner Stanislas St. Fishing, Shooting and Hunting Parties Supplied With Every Requisite for the Camp Table At Shortest Notice. Orders Sent by Mall Promptly Attended To. PHONE 241. •.;-'.;^:,^.;;:r:^-^;/ -,;.'>.,• Ton will find it to your interest to make inqniries abont the ^uebBG 4 La^e ^i John ^ailwag, THE REW ROlTii TO THE FIRF^MSd SAfiUERAV, And the OXLY Rail Lixe to the Delightful Summer Resorts and Fishing Grounds north of Quebec, and to Lake St. John &Chicoutimi, through the CANADIAN ADIRONDACKS. Trains oonneat at Chicoutimi with Saguenay Steamers for QUEBEC & UKE ST JOHN RAILWAY. Th« N*w Rout* IV thii PAR.PAMEO SAGUENAY. Tadoasac, Gacounaj Murray Bay and Qaebec^ A round trip unequalled in Ame- rica, through matchless Forest, Mountain, Ri\ erand Lake Scenery, down the majestic Saguenay by day-light and back to the Fortress City, touching at all the Beautiful Sea-side Resorts t on the St. Lawrence, with their Chain of Commodious Hotels. Hotel Roberval, Lake St. John, has flrst-class accommodation for 300 Guests, and is run in connection with the Island House, at Grand Discharge, of Lake St. John, the Centre of the Ouananiche Fishing Grounds. PARLOR AND SLBEPINQ CARS. Magnificent Scenery. Beantifnl Olimate. Apply 1o the Ticket Agents of all Principal Cities. A beautifully illustrated Guide Book free on application. ALEX. HARDY, J. Q. 8COTT. Gen. Past. Agt., Secy dt Quebec. Manager. I.- OLD FRENCH SONG * * EN ROULANT flA BOULE En rou- lant mi boii - le rou - lant, En rou-lant ma bou - le. Der - ri^r' chez nous ya t'un e - tang- En rou - lant ma bou Trois beaux can-ards s'en vont baignant, rou - li, rou-lant, ma bou-le rou - lant. Trois beaux canards s'en vont baignant, En roulant raa boule, Le fils dii roi s'en va chassant, Rouli, roulant, ma boule roulant. —Ref. Le fila du roi s'en va chassant, En roulant raa boule, - Avec sou grand fusil d'argent, Rouli, roulant, ma boule roulant. — Ref. Avec son grand fusil d'argent. En roulant ma boule. Visa le noir, tua le blanc, Rouli , roulant, raa boule roulant. — Ref. Visa le noir, tua le blanc, ' ' ' En roulant raa boule, O fils du roi, tu es mechant ! Rouli, roulant; raa boule roulant. — Ref. I 130 CARRE US GUIDE TO QUEBEC O fils du roi, tu es m^chant ! p]n luulant ma boule, D'avoir i\\^ mon canard blane, Rouli, roulant, ma boule roulant. — R^f. D'avoir tue mon canard blanc, En roulant ma boule, Par dessous I'aile il perd son sang, Rouii, roulant, maboule roulant. — Ref. Par dessous I'aile il perd son sang; En roulant ma boule. Par les yeux lui sorl'nt des diamants, Rouli, roulant, maboule roulant. — Ref. Par les yeux lui sort'nt des diamants, En roulant ma boule, Et par le ben I'or et I'argent, Rouli, roulant, ma boule roulant. — Rof Et par li bee Tor et Targent, En roulant ma boule, Toutes ses plum's s'en vont au vent, Rouli, roulant, ma boule roulant. — Re Toutes ses plum's s'en vont au vent, En roulant ma boule, Trois dam's s'en vont les ramassant, Rouli, roulant, ma boule roulant. — Ref Trois dam's s'en vont les ramassant, En roulant ma boule, C'est pour en faire un lit de camp, Rouli, roulant, ma boule roulant. — Ref C'est pour en faire un lit de camp. En roulant ma boule, Pour y coucher tons les passants, Rouli, roulant, ma boule roulant. — Ref. ^ RAILWAY SYSTEM * ■ ========== THE GRAND TRUNK SYSTEM 71 N answer to the question, "\v>ere shall I spend •^ my summer vacation ? " will not be hard to find. To one class of people a summer vacation means a round of gayety and excitement, at fashionable resorts and elegant hotels, with ease and luxury for accom- paniments, . To another class it means a quiet sojourn "by lake, or stream, or woodland glen, " in company with nature and her choicest works and " far from the maddening crowd. " Between these two extremes we find every variety of tastes, some of which are met by a combination of scenery, or a tour from one resort to another, with sight-seeing as the end to be gained. Whatever may be the preferences of a summer travel- ler as to scenery, sport or climate, it is safe to say that no greater variety can be found on the line of any rail- road on the American continent than the wide range afforded by the Grand Trunk System, and its imme- diate connections. Should the readers of these pages be asked to name one of the pleasure resorts of America, they would say the great cataract, which attracts visitors, not only from all parts of America, but from over the Atlantic, to gaze on (he majestic waterfall, the sight of which has 9 131 132 CARREL'S GUIDE TO QUEBEC inspired the pen of many a poet, and^the pencil of mul- titudes of artists, but to which neither pen nor pencil can do more than faint justice, inspiring thougli the sight of its mighty waters may be. Following Niagara with greater or less accord in giving them precedence, would come the White Mountains, the Thousand Islands, and the Eapids of the St. Lawrence, Saratoga, Lake George, the Adirondack s, Portland, the seaside resorts of the Maine coast, or the beautiful lakes and islands of the Muskoka and Parry Sound districts, which during the past few years have gained a contin- ental reputation. For cities of special interest to sum- mer tourists, those of Canada are deservedly prominent. Toronto, the bustling city by the lake ; Ottawa, the Dominion capital ; Montreal, its commercial metropolis ; quaint old Quebec, with its mediaeval air, its fortified walls and foreign surroundings ; these all come to mind in connection with this subject, as delightful places to visit in a summer tour, either from the salu- brity of their climate, the charm of their situation and surroundings, or the associations connected with their history. In considering this long list of summer resorts; if the reader's attention has not already been called to the subject, he may be surprised to learn that nearly all of them are located on or reached by the Grand Tkunk System, with its numerous divisions and immediate connections. This great highway of travel, reaching from the Atlantic coasts to the great lakes, crossing and re-crossing the Canadian border and serving alike the gauheus guide to que beg is; commercial and business interests of the United States and British America, has justly acquired the title of " The Great International Route." To this appellation it is fast adding, and with equal propriety, that of " The Great Tourist Route of AmeriCxV. " THE CANADIAN PACIFIC RAILWAY. | ^1 THE Canadian Pacific Railway Company ranks amongst the foremost of the great transportation corporations of the age. It has a longer continuous line of railway under one ownership and management than any other company in the world, reaching uninterruptedly from the Atlantic to the Pacific, and, with its far-reaching system ofbran- / ches extending in all directions to and behind the chief commercial centres of Canada, affords direct connections with the more important American systems. Its operations are not confined to the American continent, nor are its enterprises and energies limited to the ordinary busi- ness of a railway company. The Canadian Pacific owns and controls its own lines of ocean and lake steamships, a long chain of well-appointed hotels stretching from Quebec to Vancouver, a complete telegraph system, and dining and sleeping car, express and news services. Its magnificent lieet of White Empresses bring Japan and China within easy distance of those desire as of visiting those strange lands, and its Cana- dian-Australian line, whose steamships calls at Honolulu and Suva, Fiji, cross the Pacific in its most placid waters 184 CARREUS GUIDE TO QUEBEC to Sydney, Australia — and both these lines form impor- tant parts in the famed Around the World trip inaugur- ated by the Company. The route across the continent from Quebec lies through the old French farming settlements of the north bank of the St. Lawrence to Montreal, up the beautiful Ottawa Valley and through the picturesque region of forest, rock and stream of the north shore of Lake Supe- rior and the famed Lake of the Woods country to Win- nipeg on the eastern verge of the great prairies and plains of Manitoba and Western Canada, after crossing which, the Rockies and kindred mountain ranges of British Columbia are penetrated through six hundred miles of peerless scenic magnificence and splendor. In the mountains — as at Quebec — the Company has made every arrangement for the material comfort and pleasure of the tourist by the erection of capacious hotels at the most advantageous points —Banff Hot Springs in the Canadian National Park, Lake Louise amongst the clouds, Field near tlie summit of the Rockies, Glacier at the foot of the Great Glacier of the Selkirks, North Bend in the fearsome canons of the Fraser, and Van- couver, the Pacific cost terminus of the transcontinental line. During the summer season, a delightful alternate route to the west is offered via the Great Lakes, on ' which sail the Company's magnificent fleet of steam- ■ ships from Owen Sound, on Georgian Bay, and Windsor on the Detroit River to Port Arthur and Fort William, at the western extremity of Lake Superior, connecting CARREUS GUIDE TO QUEBEC 135 also at Sault Ste. Marte with its " Soo " and " Marquette " lines for points in the North Western States. By the Canadian Pacific, the tourist-sportsman reaches the game forests and fishing waters of the Maritime Provinces and Northern Maine, the salmon rivers and trout streams tributary to the St. Lawrence, the wild- fowl feeding grounds of western Ontario, the cariboo and moose-hunting region of northern Ontario, the famed trout fishing streams of the Nepigon, the shooting grounds of Manitoba, Assiuiboia, Saskatchewan, and Alberta, and the mountains of British Columbia. The Canadian Pacific has an unsurpassed train service. Its equipment is perfect, and the traveller on its lines enjoys all the comfort and luxury in the palatial sleepers and diners that can be obtained at the best of first-class metropolitan hotels, while the officials have acquired more than a local reputation for their unvarying' civility and courtesy. THE INTERCOLONIAL RAILWAY THE short route fiom Quebec to Montreal and points to the. westward is by the Intercolonial Kail way, and this line also runs south from Quebec to the Lower St. Lawrence , and through the Maritime Provinces, country which is every year becoming better known as the great tourist re- gion of Canada. It is a land in which are found the finest salmon, trout and bay fishing in America, where big and small game abounds in the forests 136 CARREVS GUIDE TO QUEBEC and along the shores, where boating and bathing are enjoyed to perfection, and where summer resorts to suit all tastes are found with the advantages of pictur- esque scenery and a most invigorating climate. Leaving the depot at Levis for the south, the Inter- colonial liailway passes the picturesque villages along the Lower St. Lawrence, reaching lliviere du Loup, Cacouna, Bic, Metis and other watering places, and enters the famed Metapedia Valley. Here begins the wonderful salmon and trout fishing which has given a world-wide reputation to such rivers as the Metapedia, Cascapedia, Eestigouche, Nepisiguit and Miramichi, in Quebec and New Brunswick. Along the eastern shore of the latter province is that broad and beautiful haven, la Baie des Chaleurs, one of the finest yachting grounds in tlie world. All along the line of the Intercolonial in this province is a country abounding in every kind of fish and all species of game, and with delightful nooks and corners for the tourist. To the east of New Brunswick, and reached by the Intercolonial Railway, is Prince Edward Island, the Garden of the Gulf, a veritable sanitarium for the invalid. Before going there, however, one may visit St. John, the busy commercial city, and ascend the deservedly famous river to Fredericton, an excursion which of itself will be a reward for hundreds of miles of travel. Resuming the journey by the Intercolonial, Nova Scotia is reached, and Halifax, the southern ter- minus of the line, a military and naval station with a wealth of attractions for visitors, may be made the base CARREL'S GUIDE TO QUEBEC 137 from which a great variety of rail and water journeys can be undertaken. The most important of these is by the Intercolonial Railway to and through Cape Breton, the Mecca of so man) modern travellers, and the beau- ties of which have supplied the theme for many a famous writer's pen. The nttractions of this part of the province are so many and varied that he must be an industrious tourist who can see all that is worth seeing in a single season. From the Sydneys it is only a pleasant steamship sail of six hours to Newfound- land. The Intercolonial Railway caters to the best class of tourists. It has new and luxurious vestibule trains, with dining, sleeping and parlor cars, and fast time is made to all points. For full information address the General Passenger Agent, Monctou, N. B., or the Dis- trict Passenger Agents at Montreal and Halifax. 188 CARRE US GUIDE TO QUEBEC QUEBEC CENTRAL RAILWAY DAYLIGHT LINE BETWEEN QUEBEC AND WHITE MOUNTAINS THE many tourists wlio have in past years visited quaint and historic Quebec and those who con- template a trip here this coming season will be in- terested to know that the service between the Quebec Central and Maine Central railroads between Quebec and Portland this summer, will be a day run instead of a night run, leaving Quebec^t 8 a. m., and arrive in Portland at 7.30 p. m. Pullman Buffet cars will be run between Quebec and Fabyans. By no other route can the tourist and traveller reach so many delightful summer resorts, and certainly no other affords such varied and picturesque scenery, as that traversed by the Quebec Central Railway and its connections. It is easy to determine upon taking a Summer outing, but it is not so easy to decide where to go. Time and purse are factors which assert them- selves. • The Quebec Central Kailway offers peculiar facili- ties to intending holiday makers ; forming, as it does, the intermediate and direct line between Quebec and New York, Boston, Portland, the Eastern and Middle States. Traversing a country of beautiful lakes and rivers, its line leads by the most pleasant ways to the most pleasant places. The train service, consisting of elegant palace cars, which run without change between Quebec and Springfield, Quebec and Boston, and Quebec CARRELS (.TIDE OF QUEBEC 139 and Portland, assure to travel^' 3 all modern con- veniences and comforts, and at i e same time, tickets can be purchased by this route at very moderate prices. NEW ROUTE TO THE FAR-FAMED SAQUENAY L ^l QUEBEC & UKE ST JOHN RAILWAY. Th« N«w Roul* lu th« FAR-FAMED SACUENAY. I I ! AKE St. John, the mouth of the Saguenay, and the City of Quebec form the angles, upon the map of (-■anada, of an almost equi- lateral triangle, three sides of which mark the route of the newest and grandest of Canadian summers tours. That portion of the trip re- presented ])y the base of the triangle and the lower half of its easterly side is famous wherever the praises of the Saguenay and the Lower St. Lawrence have been sung. Hitherto its only drawback has been the necessity of o'oins twice over the same ground in one journey. Now all this has been changed. A few years ago the line of Eailway from Quebec to Lake St. John, which may be said to form the westerly side of the triangle, opened up to sportsmen the wildest ii.' :::.!■ ■rz'^:-. \ ■ 140 CAB REUS GUIDE TO QUEBEC woods and most plentifully stocked waters of the Can- adian Adirondacks, and to tourists the far-famed yet mysterious Pikouagami, or Lake St. John, and its mar- vellous surroundings. Tliousands of pleasure travellers, explorers, and anglers have taken advantage of the new railroad to visit the great inland sea and its mighty tribu- taries, and, like the visitors to the Saguenay, almost all of them returned by the way that they came. There was a gap in the present triangular tour, ex- tending from its northerly angle at Lake St. John to Chicoutimi, nearly half way down the easterly side of the tiiangle, which has only just been filled by the con- struction of the new railway extension that renders the arrangements for the round ix'p complete, without the necessity of alternate portages and shooting' of rapids for a distance of sixty and seventy miles. Now, well within the time heretofore occupied in making the Saguenay trip alone, tourists may visit by rail the far- famed Lake St. John, crossing the Laurentian Mountains, and passing the trout streams and lakes of the Canadian Adirondacks by the way; may sleep overnight and take d ner and breakfast at the magnific^r Hotel Roberval, Lake St. John, and may continue, next day, l)V rail to Chicoutimi, and thence descend the Saguenay by steamer, and so return to Quebec by way of the St. Lawrence ; or, perhaps, by Intercolonial Railway from River du Loup. GARREUS GUIDE TO QUEBEG 141 Of recent years the pretty little villages along the Quebec & Lake St. John Eailway have become very popular summer resorts, and hundreds of Quebec citi- zens have erected attractive villas at Ancient Lorette, Lake St. Joseph, St. Raymond, Charlesbourg, etc. The trains leave and arrive at the city conveniently for business men, as they can come to town in the morning and return in the CA^ening. The cars of the Quebec and Lake St. John Railway are up-to-date in every respect, and the tourist will find every convenience travelling over this line to the far-famed Lake St. John. Parlor and sleeping cars are attached to the day and night trains. DESCRIPTION OF THE GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE M finer or more inviting trip for summer tourists haa J » ever been offered than that from Quebec to the principal cities and towns of the Maritime Provinces of the Canadian Dominion by the large and commodious steamers of the Quebec Steamship Company. The route traversed by the steamers of this Company from Mon- treal, P. Q., to Pictou, N. S., extending as it does over more than a thousand miles, has all the advantacjes of an ocean trip, with the great additional advantage of frequent stops at the finest and ro.ost attractive summer resorts in the Dominion. The whole route is rich in liistorical rominiscences, and abounds in beautiful and picturesque scenery. TiCaving Quebec and passing down the St. Lawrence River, the eye is met with a succes- sion of charming views, which are nowhere surpassed 142 CARREUS GUIDE TO QUEBEC iipon either continent in l^eauty and grandeur, and every mile of tlie distance is crowded with historic recollec- tions pertaining to the early occupancy of Canada by the French and English. The white-housed villages, green fields, stately forests, sloping beaches and tower- ing mountains upon the oi)[)Osite shores of the St. Law- rence unite in forming a variegated and lovely picture ; and no one can pass over this majestic stream below Quebec without pronouncing it the Queen of American Rivers. Notable places between Quebec and Father Point are Murray Bay and Cacouna, two of the famous Canadian watering places. Father Point, nearly two hundred miles from Quebec, is wliere the European- bound steamers leave th?ir pilots, and is a marine tele- graph station, whence the passage of steamers and vessels is telegraphed to all parts of the world. A short dis- tance from Father Point is Massacre Island, where long ago two hundred Indians of one tribe were slaughtered by those of another tribe, and below the Point the voyager gets the last glimpse of the head- lands on the north shore of the mighty river. All along the coast is indented with beautiful bay:; and rivers, abounding in salmon and other fish, and the scenery everywhere is grand and inviting. Gasp6, where Jacques Cartier landed in 1534r, is four hundred and fifty miles from Quebec, and whether for the short stop which the steamer makes there, or for a sojourn of days or weeks, it will have special attractions for the traveller in its history and its situation, inhabitants and industries. A little further on is Perce, which derives o'.T/' '•', ,. \ ■■■ C AUREUS GUIDE TO QUEBEC U its name from the wonderful pierced rock in front of it and about which cluster a myriad of curious and fas- cinating legends. The steamers pass down North- umberland Strait, with the brick-colored shores of Prince Edward Island on the one hand, and the shores of New Brunswick and Nova Scotia on the other, call- ing at Summerside and Charlotte town, and after a few hours' pleasant sail, the harbor of Pictou and the end of the Quebec Steamship Company's steamer's voyage is reached. ♦ « » »- ' *.ue.Btt cVfi. 'STL Tho above cut is alluded to on page 46 as the Union Fuilding and where war was declared in 1812. TARIFF FOR HACKNEY CARRIAGES 0NE-H0R5E VHICLES BY THE DRIVE :— Time allowed : Fifteen rainutea. For one or tv'o persons $0 40 For three or four persons 50 Time allowed : Thirtj minutes. For one or two persons $0 40 For three or four persons GO BY THE HOUR : - For the first hour. For one or two persons $0 75 For three or four persons 1 00 For every subsequent hour. For one or two persons $0 60 For three or four pversons 75 TWO-HORSE VEHICLES BY THE DRIVE :— Time allowed : Fifteen minutes. For one or two persons $0 50 For three or four persons 65 Time allowed : Thirty minutes. For one or two persons $0 65 For three or four persons 75 BY THE HOUR :— For one or two persons » $1 00 For three or four persons ;1 25 BAQQAQE.--For each trunk or box carried in any such vehicle, 10 cts ; but no charge shall be made for travelling bags, valises, boxes or parcels which passengers can carry by han.t. 144 . PLACES OF WORSHIP PROTESTANT CHURCHES ANGLICAN Cathedkal of the Holy Trinity, (Garden street) — Very Rev. L. W. Williams, M. A., Dean and Rector; Rev. Lennox Smith, Assistant Minister. — Hours of Divine Service : Sundays : Morning service at 11 o'clock. Evening service (choral) at 7 o'clock. — Holy Communion : Every Sunday at 8.00 a.m. — Week days : choral service daily at 9.30 a.m. and 5 p.m. St. Matthw's Church. — Rev. F. G. Scott, Rector. Rev. B. Watson, B.A., Curate. — Services commence, Sunday, 7.30 a.m., and 10.30 a.m., and 4 and 7 p.m. ; daily, 9.30 a.m., and 5 p.m. Seats all free. Open daily from 7.30 a.m. till 5.30 p.m. Trinity Church, (11-13 Stanislas street) — Rev. E. J. Etherington, Rector — Services Sunday at 11 a.m. and 7 p.m. Wednesday evening service at 7.30 p.m. St. Peter's Church, (268 St. Valier street.) — Rev. A. J. Balfour, M.A., Rector — Services on Sundays at 8 a.m., 10.30 a.m. and 7 p.m. Seats all free. St. Paul's Church, (499 Champlain street.) — Rev. E. A. Dunn, B.A., Rector — Sunday service at 10.30 am. and 7.15 p.m. 145 146 CARREUS GUIDE TO QUEBEC I ... St. Michael's Church. — Bergerville. — Rev. A. A. Von Iffland, Eector — Services Sundays at 11 a.m. and 4 p.m. — Sillery Heights, Cap Rouge. BAPTIST McMah#n St., off Palace and St, John streets — Rev. M. Cliff, Pastor — Sabbath Services 11 a.m. and 7 p.m. School and Bible Class 3 p.m. METHODIST St. Stanislas St., off St. John and St. Ann streets. — Rev. Thos. Griffith, Pastor — Sabbath services 11 a.m. and 7 p.m. Wednesday service, 8 p.m. PRESBYTERIAN ChalmePv!? — (St. Ilrsule street, of[' St. Louis street). — Rev. D. Tait, B.A., Pastor — Sabbath services 11 a.m. and 7 i^m. Wednesday service, 8 p.m. St. Andrew's Church, (St. Ann street). — Rev. A. T. Love, B.A., Pastor, — Sabbath services 11 a.m. and 7 p.m. Wednesday at 8 p.m. FRENCH MISSIONS Presbyterian, (St. John street without), Rev. Samuel Rondeau, Pastor — Sabbath services 11 a.m. and 7. p.m. Baptist (21 St. Margaret street), St. Roch, Rev. L. R. Dutaud, Pastor — Sabbath services 10 a.m., 3 p.m. and 7.30 p.m. English service Tuesday evening 8 p.m. French services Thursday and Friday at 8 p.m. CARREVS GUIDE TO QUEBEC 147 ROHAN CATHOLIC CHURCHES Basilica. — Eev. M. Faguy — Service commences (Morning) 9.30 ; (Afternoon) 2.30. Market square, U. T. St. Patrick's. — Rev. Father Henniug, C.SS.K. — Service commences (Morning) 10.30 ; (Evening) 7.30. McMahon street, U. T. St. Jean Baptiste. — Rev. Mr. Demers — Service commences (Morning) 10.00; (Afternoon) 2 and 7.00. St. John street, without. •St. Roch's. — Rev. M. Gauvreau — Service com- mences (Morning) 10 ; (Afternoon) 2. St. Joseph street. St. Sauveur. — Rev. Father Drouet — Service com- mences (Morning) 9.30; (Afternoon) 2. Boisseauville. Church of the Congregationists. — Rev. A. Dionne. — Service begins (Morning) 6.30 o'clock, and 10 ; (Afternoon) 2 o'clock and 4. Corner of St. Joseph and Caron streets, St. Roch's. Church of the Good Shepherd. — Rev. M. Bernier — Service commences (Morning) 6.30 ; (Afternoon) 5. Lachevrotiere street. Church of Notre-Dame des Victoires. — Rev. M. Faucher — Service begins (Morning) 6.30. Notre- Dame street. Church of Sisters of Charity. — Rev. A. Godbout — Service commences (Morning) 6 ; (Afternoon) 4. Corner of Richelieu and Glacis streets. CARREL'S GUIDE TO QUEBEC Congregational. — Kev. Father Hamond — Service commences (Morning) 6.30 ; (Afternoon) 5. Corner d'Auteuil and Dauphin streets. General Hospital. — Rev. C. A. Gagn^ Service commences (Morning) 6 ; (Afternoon) 2. Hotel Dieu. — Rev. M. Filiou — Service commences (Morning) 6 ; (Afternoon) 2. Notre Dame de la Garde. — Rev. M. Laplante — Service commences (Morning) 9.30 ; (Afternoon) 2. Cape Blanc. Ursulines — Rev. M. Lindsay— Service commences (Morning) 6.15; (Afternoon) 2. St. Columba, Sillery. — Rev. A. E. Maguire, Pastor — Services 7.30 and 9.50 a.m. and 2.30 p.m. PLACES OF INTEREST IN AND ABOUT QUEBEC CitadeL Governor's Garden. Wolfe and Montcalm Monument. Duke of Kent's Residence. House where Montgomery was laid out. Montcalm's Residence. Plains of Abraham. Wolfe's Monument. Grand Battery. Martello Towers. Dufferin T jrrace. Champlain Monument. - \ Parliament Buildings. City Hall. — Court House. Notre-Dame des Victoires Church, built 1688. French Cathedral. English Cathedral. Quebec Serai nar^'. Laval University. Cardinal's Palace. Ursuline Convent. St. Louis, Kent and John's Gates Drill Hall — Q. A. A. A. Grounds. Spencer Wood, Lieutenant Gov- ernor's Residence. Cap Rouge. Chateau Frontenac. Montmorency Falls. , Indian Village of Lorette. fjevis Forts. — Chateau Bigot. Shrine of Ste. Anne de Beaupr^. Island of Orleans. ♦ « TELEQRAPM RATES * ♦ GREAT NORTH WESTERN & WESTERN UNION 83 & 85 St. Peter and 60 5a jIt au Hatclot Stii., L. T., Quebeo 10 Words to any part of Quebec or Ontario 25 cents. Each additional word i cent. 10 Words to New Brunswick and Nova Scotia 30 cents. Each additional word 2 cents. 10 Words to Prince Edward Island 50 cents. Each additional word 3 cente. 10 Words to Manitoba 75. Eich additional word 5 cts. 10 Words to North-West Territories $1.00. Each addi- tional word 7 cents. 10 Words to British Columbia |1.00. Each additional word 7 cents. 10 Words to Eastern States 40 cents. Each additional word 3 cents. 10 Words to Middle States 50 cents. Each additional words 3 cents. 10 Words to Western States 50, 60 and 75 cents and $1.00. Each additional word, 3, 4, 6 and 7 cts. Night Messages, Dominion of Canada, 25 cents for 25 words. Each additional word 1 cent. Great Britain, Ireland, France, Germany, 25 cents for each word of 10 letters. 149 150 CARREVS GUIDE TO QUEBEC Spain - - - Belgiuni - - - Holland & Italy Norway - - CABLE RATES 40 cents for each word of 10 letters. 30 32 35 t( <( (< (( ({ « The Great North- Western Telegraph Co., of Canada. Direct and exclusive cable connection through Canadian territory witli the Anglo-American, Direct and also with the French and American Cables. Money orders by telegraph between the principal offices in Canada, and also between this country and the whole of the money transfer offices of the Western Union Telegraph Com- pany. ♦ ♦ SUMMER RESORTS ♦ ♦ ^^^ ST. LAWRENCE HALL, CACOUNA Vrf HIS elegant and spacious Hotel, open for guests JAJ* from June to September, has been so extended and improved that it is now one of the most commodious sea-side hotels in the Dominion. It has a frontage of 240 feet with three wings each 150 feet long, having spacious lawns between and overlooking the river St. Lawrence ; has ac- O commodation for five s hundred guests. The bedrooms are large, com- fortable and well venti- lated, several being en Si/ «Yg, while almost every room in the house com- ^ Acq uM*^- ^-^ mands a magnificent view of the river or surrounding country. It is sup- plied with billiard rooms, bowling alley, concert hall, and elegant parlors. Its extensive dining room is airy and well lighted. The cuisine is unsurpassed, being under the supervision of a competent French chef. 151 152 CARREUS GUIDE TO QUE BEG CACOUNA AS A SUMMER RESORT Is the leading Canadiau watering place situated on the Lower St. Lawrence, one hundi-ed and twenty miles below Quebec, opposite the mouth of the far-famed Saguenay River. It is a great natural sanitarium. Its salubrity, elevation and average summer temperature, as well as salt sea breezes and balmy air, make it specially attractive. Sea bathing, one of the principal recreations, with a smooth and gentle sloping beach and no undertow with the tide, is made perfectly safe. The atmosphere is dry, and temperature even, never pre- venting one from out-door pleasures, either from ex- treme cold or heat. A great point, too, in favor of Cacouna, is the absence of anything like fresh water marshes or annoying insects. The porosity of the shale rock and gravel soil causes the absorption of rain fall at once. •-■ , Address E. M. Stocking, Proprietor, Quebec, Canada. , . ■ ' '.■- . / ■ ^' '■'-..■'^ .->■•"■ I • - ' ■; ■ -■■ *. . \ . V - ' ... HOTEL ROBERVAL "W^OUBISTS, sportsmen and those in search of a •'-*-^ healthy climate for a summer outing, w^here no malaria or hay fever lurks in the morning, the Hotel Roberval, in the land of almost midnight sun, just north of the ridge pole, in the Laurentian Range ofthe Cana- dian Adirondack s, on the shore of the Lake St. .John, the " home of the Ouananiche," offers you every attrac- tion. ^ CARREUS GUIDE TO QUEBEC IM For sportsmen let me quote 1h3 words of an eminent divine, Dr. Vandyke, of New York : — " But the prince of the pool was the fighting ouananiche, the little sal- mon of the Lake St. John. Here let me chant thy praise, thou noblest and most high-minded fish, the cleanest feeder, the meraest liver, the loftiest leaper, and bravest warrior of all creatures that swim. Thy cousin, the trout, in his purple and gold with crimson HOTEL ROBERVAL spots, wears a more splendid armour than thy russet and silver mottled with black, but thine is the kinglier nature. His courage and skill, compared with thine, are as moonlight unto sunlight, and as water unto wine. " The old salmon of the sea that begot thee, long ago, in these inland waters, became a backslider, descending again to the ocean, and grew gi'oss and heavy with coarse feeding. But thou, unsalted salmon of the foaming floods, not land-locked as men call thee, but 154 CARREUS GUIDE TO QUEBEC choosing of thine own free will to dwell on a loftier level in the pure swift current of a living stream, hast grown in grace and risen to a better life. Thou art not to be measured by quantity, but by quality, and thy five pounds of pure vigor will outweigh a score of pounds of flesh less vitalized by spirit. Thou feedest on the flies of the air, and thy food is transformed into an aerial passion for Hight, as though springest across the pool, vaulting towards the sky. Thine eyes have grown large and keen by peering through the foam, and the feathered hook that can deceive thee must be deftly tied and delicately cast. Thy tail and fins, by ceaseless conflict with the rapids, have broadened and strengthened so that they can flash thy slender body like a living arrow up the fall ; as Launcelot among the knights, so art thou among the fish, the plain armored hero, the sun-burnt champion of all the water folk." CANADIAN FARM-HOUSE. v,)iA>v». TABLE OF CONTENTS '"■ .■";' .- ' PAGE. Dedication 3 Introduction 5 Historical Sketch 13 Sieges of Quebec 16 General Aspect 23 How to Reach Quebec 25 HeTBL Accommodation 27 Citadel, Fortifications and Gates 29 Esplanade 35 Grand Battery 35 In THii City 37 Notre-Danie des Victoires 37 Champlain's Old Fort 38 Champlain's Grave 38 DufFerin Terrace 40 Champlain's Monument 42 Place d'Armes .... 46 Union Building 46-143 Wolfe and Montcalm Monument 40 English Cathedral 48 Court House 49 Post Office and Chien d'Or 50 Old Parliament House 53 Cardinal's Palace 54 Basilica 54 Seminary Chapel 56 Quebec Seminary 57 Laval University 59 Market Square 61 Old Jesuits' College 63 New City Hall. 65 Ursuline Convent 67 Montcalm's Grave 69 II TABT.E OF CONTENTS Ik THK City — Continued. ^ page. St. Louis Street .' 71 General Montgomery 73 Palace Street ... 77 Wolfe's Statue 77 Hotel Dieu 77 Cartridge Factory 80 Intendant's Palace 80 Parliament House 82 Short- Wallick Monument 83 Cove Fields 84 Martello Towers 84 Athletic Grounds 84 Plains of Abraham 85 Wolfe's Monument 86 Wolfe's Cove 86 Morriu College 86 Convents 87 Hospitals 88 Public Institutions 89 Churches 90 Cemeteries 92 Lower Town -. . 93 Oldest Building in Quebec 94 Environs of Quebec 96 Montmorency Falls 97 Natural Steps 100 L'Ange Gardien 101 Chateau Richer 102 Spencer Wood 102 Sillery 102 Cap Rouge. : 103 Holland House 103 St. Foye Monument 104 Fort Jacques Cartier 105 Chateau Bigot 107 Indian lK)rette 109 La Bonne Sainte Anne 109 Island of Orleans 112 Levis and Forts 113 Graving Dock 113 TABLE OF CONTENTS III ■■■. '^■■■- PAGE. Lower St. Lawrence 115 The Saguenay '. 116 Lake St. John 11/ Canadian Adirondacke 117 Lake Edward 117 Lake St. Joseph 117 Leaving Quebec 118 Tour of the Sa» FRANK CARREL, Proprietor and Manager , f ^^By Appointment Purritrs to th« QMten.^^ j^merican and OtheP ti$M$ ^ Q UEBEC Should not Leave Quebec Without Seeing e.R.RENFBEW&Cfl's.. MAGNIFICENT DISPLAY OF Furs & Fur Garments. Which will be shown with Pleasure And without solicitation to Purchase Establishment is situated in the Central Part of the Upper Town, Directly Opposite to the Basilica, and within a Few Minutes' Walk of the Principal Hotels. Branch : 5 Kl ., EAST, TORONTO. - 'Jfi^xi ..^. •K..r'--^A »