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Un des symboles suivar^s apparattra sur la dernidre image de cheque microfiche, selon le cas: le symbole -^ signifie "A SUIVRE", le symbole V signifie "FIN". Maps, plates, charts, etc, may be filmed at different reduction ratios. Those too large to be entirely included in one exposure are filmed beginning in the upper left hand corner, left to right and top to bottom, as many frames as required. The following diagrams illustrate the method: Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc. peuvent dtre filmds d des taux de reduction diffdrents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour dtre reproduit en un seul clichd, il est filmd i partir de I'aniile supdrieur gauche, de gauche d droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'images ndcessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la m6thode. > errata d to It e pt:9ure, ;on d n 1 2 3 32X 1. I M ': :i ■ 4 5 6 I I . VIEWS OF LOUISIANA} TOCSTHBR WITH A JOURNAL OF A vovaoe up thb missouh? eiveb, m isii. te\ H. M. BRACKE^RroCE, es^. Pittsburgh, iftmtU^ ktltt >VBLISHXS BY CiRAkVS, STXAR AKD BiCHBATjft. Jf'rankiin head ojice. 1814. -" ' n innfm m i L l ft « DISTRICT OF PENN8TLTANIA, to wit : BE IT REMEMBERED, That on the twenty-fourth day of November, in the thirty-eighth year of the Independence of the United States of America, ^.D. 1813, Henry M. Baack- ENRiDGK, of the said District, hath deposited in this office the Title of a Book, the right whereof he claims as Author— in the words following, to wit : " Views of Louisiana; together with a journal jor a voyage up the Missouri riveR) in 1811. By H. M. Brackenridge, Esq." ■ (■• In conformity to the Act of the Congress of the United States, intituled, « An Act for the encouragement of Learningi by securing the copies of Maps, Charts and Books, to the Authors and Proprietors of such copies during the times therein mentioned."— -And also to the Act, entitled, " An Act supplementary to an Act, entitled, " An Act for the encourage- ment of Learning, by securing the copies of Maps, Charts and Books, to the Authors and Proprietors of such copies during the times therein mentioned," and extending the benefits thereof to the arts of designing, engraving, and etching histori- cal and other prints.'" D. CALDWELL, CLERK OP THB nXSTRICT OT FBN17SyLVAKIA. TO THE READER. rSISYLVAKIA. IN the spring of 1810, T landed at New Madrid in Upper Louisianuj And proceeded from thence by land to St. Genevieve, with the inten- tion of settling myself in some part of the territory as a lawyer. But finding after a short residence, that prospects of success in that part of the world, were not such as I could have wished, I resolved to en\- ploy the time I should remain there, in making observations and re- murks on such things as appeared most worthy of attention. I was in a short time, pleased with the employment, which drew me into a more extensive research than I had at first contemplated, and gave rise to a degree of earnestness in a pursuit, to which I had before been almost a stranger ; my studies having been chiefly directed to abstract subjects, to history, belles lettrcs, and to those in some way connected with my profession In the winter of 1811, 1 published at St. Louis, the capital of Upper Louisiana, a series of essays descriptive of the country, many of which, were reprinted in periodical papers in the states, and spoken of in terms of approbation. It were needless to declare how gratifying this was to my feelings, or, as the reader will choose to think, to my vanity. In the heyday of youth, when the mind is tilled with romantic conceits, there is nothing so pleasant as this taste of fame. It is however, some- times productive of dangerous effects, for where this first manifesta tion of applause, does not intoxicate the brain and paralize the ener- gies, causing the infatuated being to believe, that he has already ar- rived at the highest degree of earthly honors, it is apt to confirm one in that pursuit, where accident may have crowned him with success. — Hence, I have been in no small danger of becoming an author, perhaps an indifferent one : a professed author in our country, alas '. is pitiable in- deed. A mere abstract man, without any degree of importance, or con- sequence, attached to him ; he is not ranked as having any employ, ment in the state, ecclesiastical, civil,.or military, and necessarily takes tip his abode next door to starvation! It hag been supposed by lome of my friends who read my essays in the public prints, that I had in re- ality relinquished my profession, and that I waa wandering abont Ihe f* /^ I £43 western country, wi-iting geography, philosophy, history, and the Lorti knows what; but, I thank heaven, I have had sufficient firmness to ro< sist this temptation to prove a recreant to the delightful pages of my Lord Coke, to the erudite commentator, Blackstone, or to neglect my new frionds, the code of Justinian, and commentators thereon, the Por- tidas, the ordonnances of Bilbao, and Domat. During the winter before mentioned, I became acquainted with Mr Bradbury, Fellow of tlic Linnean Society; a gentleman as distinguish- ed for his agreeable manners, sound understanding, and general sci- ence, as fur his attainments in the doparlment of natural history. My acquaintance with him naturally nourished the fondness 1 had begun to feel for the subjects treated of in this volume. In the spring following, this gentleman set off to ascend the Missouri in tl\e party of Mr. Wil- gon P. Hunt, for tlie purpose of pursuing his researches in those unfre- quented regions. Shortly after his departure, Mr. Maniiel Lisa, one of the members of the Missouri Fur Company, ascended with a small pai'ty, for the purpose of retrieving the affairs of the company, which had became considerably deranged : being solicited by this gentleman to accompany him, my wish to visit those countries was so strong, that I did not hesitate, notwithstanding that there was much to be feared from the hostilities of the Indians, who of late had been unfriendly to the whites ; in so much, that it was generally supposed, that even tho considerable party of Mr. Hunt would not be able to make its way through the Sioux bands. The pleasure of being in company with Mr. Bradbury, whom we expected to overtake, was not a light considera- tion I accordingly ascended, and after an absence of four or five months, returned to St. Louis, witli two boats loaded with furs ai.d pel- try of the company, placed under my command. Remaining at St. Louis until the month of November, I embarked for New Orleans, where I ar- rived in December 1811. Here I met with one of the publishers of this work, Mr. Cramer, and proposed to him the publication of the es- pays before mentioned, with the journal of my voyage up the Blissou- ri ; to which he assented, on condition that I would extend it, and add somethijig relative to the state of Louisiana. Sucli is the history of the volume now offered to the public, respect- ing which, I have observed with regret, that expectations have been excited, much beyond its real importance. I say regret, because those expectations, will most probably be disappointed, if, instead of the cur- sory observations of an ordinary traveller, the reader shall look for a complete and scientific account of Louisiana, emulating the famed pro- ductions of Oepons, Molini, o Humboldt. The extensive country which constitutes the subject of these essays, gltkoiigl^ one of the n>ost interesting portions oi the aew world, api [5] peart to have been amon(fst the last in becnmlnfif kno\en. The Spa>> niards, who possessed it from 1769, until after 1800, cannot be said to have done any thingtowards its further discovery. The French, who were first settlers, had made considerable progress in exploring it, but those exploring parties originating principally with private individuals, un- supported by the government, or any wealthy society, were consequent' ly neither sufficiently extensive nor accurate. It is a singular fact, that Ko great a portion of it, should to this day remain an entire blank on tlic map, and that there should be no correct standard work, to refer to, for knowledge of a country inhabited by Flurcpeans for more than one hundred years A few writers, such as Charlevoix, Du Pratz, Du» mont, de la Harpe, S(c. collected the materials furnished by a variety of individuals, who passed over dificrent parts of it, and formed their books by joining to them the observations muce by themselves ; but they were unfortunately too ready to receive all tlie falseliooiJs with which they were fraught. In fact, but little was accurately known of this country, unlil it fell into the possession of the United States. Be- sides the observations of a number of individuals, there have been some exploring expeditions sanctioned and equipped by the government; these are too well known to require enumeration. 'Ilic sources o'tiie Mississippi, Missouri, Arkansas, Red river, VVa8hita,and of White river, are known to the world for the first time. In the course of the last eight or ten years, such a number of authentic accounts have appeared, that the time may be regarded as not distant, when the geographer will be able to speak of Louisiana with as much certainty, as of any other part of the United States. The materials for its history have also been augment- ed : a variety of facts, scattered through the pages of writers almost ob- solete, or of transactions known but to tradition, have been carefu'ly collected pnd preserved. I have no higher aim in these " Views," than to be considered one of those who furnish materials for abler iiunds. Mr. William Darby, to whom I am indebted for the statistical view and table, has been eng^aged for a number of years in preparing an ela- borate work on Louisiana. Possessing strong original genivis, wiUi con- siderable acquirements, and indefatigable industry, the public may ex- pect something substantially useful in his Labors. He has already al- most completed, from actual survey, a map of the new state ^f Louisi- ana ; a work of vast difficulty and labor, from the strange configura- tion of the country, being cut up, and infinitely diversified, by bayoux, Bwamps, lakes, lagoons, tind a thousand oiher objects calculated to im- pose difficulties on the undertaking. It has always appeared to me, that the observations of travellers, if made with any tolerable degree of accuracy, sliouUl rank amongst the most useful productions, and should, moreover, be entitled to great in- [ 63 O^tilgence. AVhat can be more {xleasing and inatructivc than the testimo* Djrof eye wilnesses, relu.ive to objects of the most interesting^ nature, vhich \v. are precluded from Tiaitifig ouraelvea, or than the reniurks of intelligent peritona on whit chances to .come under their notice dur- ing their peregrinations through distant countries ? In the early ages of iociety» travelling from one nation to another, was almoat the only mean*. of acquiring superior knowledge, Multorumque homlnum urbes, et mores cognovit, a ^ise man and a great traveller were regarded as synonymous, and treated with equal respect. When in the form of narrative, thisspe- cies of composition has all the attractions of romance, combined with the usefulness of truth. I have always perused the book of travels with peculiar delight, no matter how aukward its style, or humble the ad- venturer. In this kind of writing, the fidelity of truth is far to be pre- ferred to the more artifice or elegance of diction.* It may be said to be a species of composition free alike to the illiterate and the learned, re- quiring no peculiar and appropriate style ; demanding neither the dig- nified march of history, the bnlliaucy of works of the imagination, nor the precision and regularity of tI>ose which are purely scientific, yet, admitting with propriety something of them all. Men of the most com- jfxon acquiiscments arc not excluded, or thought presumptuous in at> tempting it, for it may be the fortune of such only, to have witnessed facts of the highest interest, hr to have passed through countries not likely to be visited by the le»ri%od. Hence the various modes adopted by travellers, from the regular ami systematic essay, down to the sim- ple diary or journal. Before the reader decides iipnn this work, he must recollect, that travels through countries little known, must necessarily be of a differ, ent cast from those in countries highly cultivated, and already describ- ed by innumerable writers. Instead of amusing incident, descriptions of manners and customs, characters of distinguished persons, political and moral reflections, historical reminescence, and a multitude of other topics, the traveller has only to describe the face of nature in its prim- itive state, the character of a few wandering savages, or the situation of settlements yet in their infancy. He that would aspire to the high- est order of travellers for having tra'^ersed such a country, ought to be • The travels of a Frenchman are bedizened with conceits of the fancy, those of an Englishman loaded with sluggish prejudice. I must /> declare (perhaps the result of partiality) that such American travels as I have perused, have always struck me as more impartial, and con- taining a more perfect stamp of autkenticity than either. n the testiao- esting' nature, n the rcniarkB :ir notice clur- e early «gc» of Imost the only lonymous, and ative, thisspe- combined with of travel 8 with tumble the ad- s far to be pre- ly be said to be :hc learned, re- leither the dig- nagination, nar ' scientific, yet^ F the most com- imptuous in at- have witnesied h countries not lodes adopted Avn to the sim- a proficient in nalura'. history ; to this I miist confess, I have but sleu* der pretensions. Devoted to a profession, which my lord ('okc, obser- veth, •• is a jealous mistress, and will not wbide a rival," I havr not been able to spare the time requisite for such attainment- It is with regret I reflect, that I have devoted so much time to this employment, which was necessarily withdrawn from my profession, or studies connected with it. To become a botanisl, mineralogist, or geologist, requires long and undivided attention. I have therefore been compelled to content mysclfwith admiring merely the face of luiture, without attcmptingto analize, or seek out her hidden character. I have dwelt as little in po- litical and statistical detail, as on the phenomena of nature, the coun- tries through whicli I paased affording bdt little of interest on these to- pics. The reader will find here little else, than geographical outlines, descriptions of the surface of the country, the navigation of rivers, the nature or quality of soils, the appearance of towns or villages, and whatever else would be likely to meet the eye of a transient passenger. The greater part of what is here offered is original, though it will be seen that I have read what has been written by others, and occasion- ally adopted their ideas. In .:>rming a table of the Indian nations, much of my materials are derived from Gen. Clark, Dr. Sibly, and Pike. In my observations on the Mississippi, &c. the writings of Mr. EUicot, the late Sir William Dunbar, and Dr. Mease, furnished me with hints. I now lay this volume before the public, with all the reverence and awe, vrith which that tribunal is usually approached, feeling consci- ous of the temerity of my attempt. It is a tribunal whose attention, in the republic of letters, we are all ent itled to demand, but if we abuse it, by exhibiting what proves unworthy of that attention, we aro soon consigned to merited aontempt. VIEWS OP LOUISIANA. IN TWO BOOKS. CHAPTER I. DISCOVERY) AMD VIRST SETTLBMEHT OV LOVISIANAi HE early history of marly all the colonies planted by Eu- ropean nations, on thig continent^ presents us with a series of hardships and misfortunes, encountered by the first settlers, and of injudiciofus management by those entrusted with their super- intendence. From thcne Louisiana in its first settlement was by no means exempt, on the contrary they were all experienced here, m the aererest manner. It was not until after repeated failures, and the lapse of a century, from the first attempt, *hat a colony could take roct, and not for half a century more that it could flourish. It is intended in this imperfect sketch, to pass those events in review, and as far as in the writer's power, to de- Velope their causes. Thd Spaniards from their establishments in Cuba, and ia Mexico, at an early period became acquainted with the continent lying opposite the island before mentioned, and had given it the name of Florida. Under ;hts name, they comprehended and claimed, east of the province of Penuco, indefinitely, north, east, and south ; and declared that all the French and English posses- sions in Amenca, belonged to Florida, and were unjust usurpar tionson the dominions appertaining to the crown of Spain.* They • Kerr of Kerrslands Memoirs, 1727— -History of European Settle- ments an. 1775, and Postlethwayte on Commerce, published in 1745.-^ Don Andres Gonzales dc Boreca. B 10 VIH\>ti UK LUtldlANi ii^ woroi howevoii by no mouUH ihf> Aiii ia uke {taiMiiKioni ut lo t)K|iUuu it. Tlio Itbcrul gill ul Popo Aioxwiuler ih« ftinlh, ut ull litu lUMi w(>r^^ Dii^iil Uu iU))|UMiu(l tuHUpiivamiu iliu iiuvtiitMiy ul N'Ui'l) lormHlilicii- It in ti'uotilmrooiuo uilvuutut nivt in iho ImpoH ol divcev^ring ill tliiM unux|iUuvtl rugiunt kingiionii ul liviliaud Iniliuna, und lii'uil Uy \\\M Mill i vbtt itl' Uui't««, penctriauii ti>U) ihu country nuw Ciilluil 1 Aiuitiiuiiui but Wtti'o duploi'ulily unwiiQcuiiittul Tiitititi ml - vontui'iM'ii Miu hutior to obiuin lullowtfiH, luul Mnl'nlly ('ii'uulHtoil u tttuiy, liuitvU to ibu Hiipvikiition ui' tbu tigu, tlmt in ttiiit cuuntiy, lliui'tt ^niiituil » niii'uciilituit fuuntMiHt |M)ttti«HHiiig tbu duiiiiublo i|iiuliU(iH (if i-vHturii^( yoiitiii ur ri>iuleriiig it |ioi'potUMl to liini \\\m itbuiiUI bu lio iVn tunutti uu to liutbu liininair in itb vnt biiutvd wulci'«« Tbu Himiiitib eNpeilitionH bml not tor tbtni* objert tlip tukiiig |umtiUiiHivin ul u wililoinvHHi ibinly pooploil, by wunilvrinu liuiiMnu. ul pupubiting unit iinpixiving id liut to plumlor tbu nn' livt'tt ul' tlio liquid uiul silver ibuy wcvo iiuppuiitiU to putnttimt i nur diU tbu wurbli ov uvcn ilwy. Iiecoino betiui- ucuuuintud witb llio country in cuntiiiqucncu ul' tbvii' vHpeiliiiuiiM. Tuntiii ilu Luoui IPUH ibti Arm udvunturur. In ijii'J) bu pvntmmud I'luiiilu, »t till) buail ul'u liinsiiUui'v^biu |uirtyt unienHibly in purHuit uf iImi Vl'urtf inuntiunud luuntuini i'lit bia tttuy wuti »liurti bu dUI not «vun buibi u buti th Indiiui^i wbo kiilod nuiny ulbiit puiiplutund utiungtb pui'ialivd inbteiMbly biniaulhvilliuut bi^vuig uvvn built m I'lrt. !li»uiry of ll«iiO|ioHn N«ttlcin«nt*i |Mai!U\'eRY ik 8RT liEMRNt .*B()OK I It HvrhMndos dv Hotn, li«ing; u(\oi'WMrtli luutlo i a\>iain(\cnrra1 «)f Mori(i«, \n tho your lA.tv) ut the hoail of v\^Ui onuitu liundrvtl iDun lani)«i) in ihii lounii'y uiu) pcmt^iVHiott u conttuivinMo (iii< tnnro inyi (h« imerior. H«i tunrinuoti hv ^ovt^ial yrurM wuiuK-viujB^ intkunrch of (^oit), uf civilived Indiwiio, wnt) hy tiu> oti(iv(tu, MM party wh« divldicil himI di»|ivr»u() in m\A\\ buiu1», thu ^itnttrr \\M\ of whii'hi wtfro noVv'M' ut^orwtutitt itvurd ot, itntl l^nttUy do S«)io tdmsolf diod on tito btiuka uf the MiuniHiiippi.* 'V\w uidiup- py ii«tio nf theto (tucr.(»iitiv« i:Kp«dltinn», entlt-iily dittvuttdoil ad* vunturuia litiiu uny further nttoimpti uiuU «»Ubita()mviu« woro t'uiinod liy the l'^tJm•^. In th« yeur i.19.1, Vcnuynui, anltUiiMn tiuiriiior, in tlie wr- vlco uf Fmnotf, \m\ diicovvrod l^loridK* hut hud not uttoiupttid *'anyaettIvinout. TidHdiHcovory wusnotroDowmluphythi^Fivikoh, u\s\u^ to tho nimokt toitd ihattt-ntioit to Amvrira, durinu tli(} irouhlod reignit of Frum in 11, und of Ci ,)rle» IX. The coUhitaM Coli^nyi detii^UH id'ol)!utnit«g froiulo^ii of religiout wni-«hip,^n- tho por«cicuted 9mc\ to whirli ho t)D|«in|p«d| rnncuiwd the idoM of going in tkwTi'h of th^ r.ounti7 di«(u)Vi*rtid Ity Vvrtticunii und lif pluntingM colony of prototttunlHt u itvhetne mthor onroiinkgtQd hy the king wim was deHiitnot of i Imtiin^ oflT tho lhigin»^ choion hy tho Hdndrtd to undortukw tho eitpeditinni net ofTtho IHth td Ktshrnury U(t9. Uv l\r»t totnhedut u pUio which l\« oulN»d au", id N. lut- und turning to th« ri)^ht \w |Hiri civvd m nhort linn? ut\or, u river which ho nunted la Hii/rrct/rji Drn^int^ tuit * In (hv Moonunt «f dun tr*|iiikll!iQit hy M0rr«v«i it i« mrniimiad th«t d* H«in>ln iSi\ iio«itth?(l MuviU«,Hii lndiAntuuM viU'Utniul \« ttli wd hUm \ittt\U llvi ItHd Mtuuigrtgi-mmu (Ikrto lit >vluoU 'J(H)0 mtUu^a \u-rt> kdUui «nd Si H;iMi)iiird«, wlui mIbh l(i»t 4.) humisa An hidun vilUDia iume«l dhii ««.« VI MM U\m\\. Ht)« \nwV' Nini. 1 v«d Dl '>-A ii'MdiiitmprvvHdrd Hmiiii(fat itm tiiikkHaki* IndUnn uf dmii- litiviiiK kUin tlia Hint ^Ui(« in«ii thry h«tt ^vor Dii^rn—tliiM might \\\\\v bn^nout oi'dv tiolo'«ptirtii>ji. 48 VIEWS OP LOUISIANA. i,.i did not enter. PursuiDg this course, at the distance of Hfteen leai^ues he discovered anotlier river and entered it on the first oi' May, from which circamstance he gave it the name of la riviere de Mai. Here he found a great number of savages, by whom, from that coneiliatnrv policy^ which the French have so suc- cessfully pursued towards these people, he was well received : reciprocal presents were made, to the great satisfaction of the Indians. But having in view the river Jourdan, he has- tened his departure ixav^ this place, but not without having £rst erected a pillar on which were engraven the arms of France, and taking possession of the country in the name of the king and of the admiral : a vain and idle ceremony. He after- wards gave to the rivers which he successively discovered for sixty leagues, the names of French rivers, and at length cast an- chor in what be supposed the Jourdan, but which was called af- terwards by the Spaniard.,, St. CruT, and by the natives Shawa- no,* at present Savana. Rihaut at this place built a fort which he called Fort Charles; the Indians manifested the greatest friend- ship. Leaving here the persons who had accompanied him for ihe purpose of establishing a colony, he took his depar- ture. Unfortunately the direction and government of it, were re- signed to a person no ways capable. He soon manifested great, im- prudence, and the most ferocious severity. The colony in a ^hort time, suffered severely from famine, and a complication of miseries: and were at length compelled to leave the country and endeavor to regain their native land, in a vessel built by them under the most discouraging circumstances. It is indeed strange, how men can be induced voluntarily to tear themselves from the bosoni of a refined and civilised socie- ty, retire to a wilderness and become the neighbours of savages. But the sweet and cheering hope of regaining their native soil, af- ter having acquired a comnetency, has been found never to aba.i> don the emigrants from France*. Even the powerful incentive of religious freedom, was not sufficient alone. The belief tliat evo \ ;■ .1 'li! • The Shawanese Indians were originally from Ce'irieria; they cxchang* ed their country with the Cherokees for that on the Cumberland river, fVom whence they were aftei w^ds driven by the same people across the Ohio. DISCOVERY h SETTLEMENT—BOOK I. U ry part of America was equally rich in mines of precious metals, will account both for the readiness with which adventurers, em- barked in colonizing enterprises, and the ill success of the first attempts; for instead of cultivating the earth, the greatc part of their time was spent in running about in search of gold ant) silver. The admiral, not discouraged by the failure of this attempt^ soon succeeded in preparing another armament, consisting of three vessels provided with every thing which might be requir- ed by a young colosy, and gave the command lo Rene dc Lau- dame re. Fifty thousand crowns were advanced to this expedi- tion by the king. Several gentlemen of fortune, and young per- sons of family were desirous of making this voyage at their own expense ; and there were joined to it some detachments of sol- diers chosen from among the veteran corps. On the 26th of June 1564, he entered the Dauphin river, but did not land, to the great regret of the Indians who appeared disposed to receive them in the most friendly manner. He continued his course to the May river where he landed, ascended some distance, and, being well received by the natives, commenced an establishment. Notwithstanding all these advantages, and fluttering auspices, the same fute attended this colony as the iirst. The colonists were soon carried away by the delusion of searching after gold. This became almost a mania, and was taken advantage of by a neighbouring Paraousti, who succeeded in drawing them into a war with his enemies, a powerful tribe. This chief perceiving the thirst after gold and silver which prevailed, exhibited some pieces of silver, and informed that he had procured them from his enemies, who had the same metal in abundance. The colony now began to ieel the usual calamities, from dissention, famine from neglect of tiliage, and at the same time an Indian war which they had unjustly provoked. In this state they at length came to the rcsolucion of re-embarking, when of a sudden, to the gen- era! si'rpi'ise, seven brigantines, appeared in the river. It prov- ed to be Ribaut who had brought su '. -lors to the colony. About this time the attempt of France to colonize Florida, be- came known in Spain, who claimed the country in virtue of the Pope's bull, and the particular discoveries of Pontio de Leon and I ij mi !>' 14 yiEvrs OFxomsiANA. the other adventurers. Pedro de Menendez, was immediately despatched by that monarchy to cstabHsh a colony and to drive aWuy the French. The armament* might be considered for that period, and for the occasion, a formidable one, consisting of ten vessels and upwardsof two thousand men. Before he could r«aoh the place of his destination, a storm arose, which dispersed and scattered his ships, so that he only arrived with five. These were attacked by some English vessels then at the mouth of the riveri and compelled to (all down to the Dauphui rWer, which they .entered, giving it the name of St. Augustin ; here they commen- ced an establishment. In the mean while Ribaut, contrary to the advice of his officers, embarked nearly all his force, in order to attack and destroy the Spanish fleet, and left but sixty or seventy xnen in his fort.* Ribaut could only come in sight of the Spa- niards when a dreadful tempest drove him off the coast. The Spanish commander, rightly conjecturing that the greaiter part of the garrison had been embarked on this occasion, resolved to inarch over by land and storm the fort This he did in five days after his discovering the English squadron, and sttoceeded com- pletely, meeting in fact with but little or no resistance : Mons. Laudamere and a few soldiers only escaped. This achievmeut hpnoi'ahle in -its commencement, was however wound up by one of those acts of barbarity, which causes humanity to shudder even when related of the most ferocious savages, and which stamps infamy and shame on civilized men } the prisoners who surren- dered, and the miserable fugitives, who were afterwards caught, were hung upon a tree, on which was suspended this sentence, worthy of that bigotry, " whose forces are congregated from the abysses of hell :" not as frencumbn, but as heretics amp ENEMIES OF GOD. Menendez, giving the name of St. Matteo, to the fort he had taken, left a garrison in it, and returned to St. Augustin. Ribaut at the same time paid dearly for his imprudence, being ship-wreck- ed on the Bahama banks, he attempted with the remainder of his forces to regain tl > fort by land. Having approached it after in- credible hardships, he learned that it was in the possession of the Spaniards. One of his officers was sent with proposals^ (Uij) * It had been called Fort Charles. DISCOVERY 8e SETTLEMENT— BOOK I. I? s immediately y and to drive idered for that insisting of ten he could reach I dispersed and e. These were ith of the river, rer, which they B they cemmen- , contrary to the »rce, in order to sixty or seventy ight of the Spa- the coast. The the greater part ision, resolved to »e did in five days swocccied cem- >siattaicet Mens. This achievment wound up by one to shudder even »d which stamps lers who surren- fterwards caught, ied this sentence, •regated from the S HERETICS AMO it was solemnly agreed on both sides, that the commander of the fort, should supply them with a vessel to return to France ; but: he no sooner got these uiTibrtunate pe(^le in his power, tlian re- gardless of humanity and justice, he caused them to be barbar rously butchered. Such is the tragie (ate of these early coloniies ; the story '» related by Charlevoix, with minute detail, in his loose and ram- bling way. This writer expresses the strongest indignation a': the abominable and atrocious conduct of the Spaniards, and do- nies in the strongest terms that Spain ever had any just- right to this country. France and Spain were at this moment in profound peace> nor does this outrage, seem in the least to have excited the in<^ dignation of the former, owing to the circumstance of the unfor- tunate victims having been protestants and heretics. But it was- left to a private gentleman, to avenge the indignity ^fRercdto his country, and to chastise the barbarous usurpers of Florida. Thia was the Chevalier de Gourgues a man who in those times had distinguished himself in various countries for that romantic va* lour, which vras then so highly esteemed ; the indignation which he felt for the insuk offered his country was heightened by » setise of personal wrongs, having been for miuiy years confined in Spanish prisons. Under pretence of forming an expedition to Africa, he raised at his own expeRse and with the assistance of his friends, a considerable armament and steered for Florida. On his arrival he was joined by the Indians who had become greatly dissatisfied with the Spaniards, stormed St. Mattee, and carri- ed it with little difficulty. The greater part of the garrison was killed in the assault, the remainder were taken to the same rrce on which the French had been hanged, and in the execution of a severe but not unjust retaliation, served in the same manner,, the former inscription being replaced by one to this effect — not AS SPANIARDS, BUT AS MURDEliKRS AND CUT-THKOATS. HdrVing. destroyed the fort, and completed the ol)ject oi his expedition^' he soon after embarked f St. Augustin was considered as too formidable for his party. The attention of France seems to have been altogether tvith- drawn from this quarter of the continent, during an iptervyil of VIEWS OP LOtnSIANA. i!' many years : beiwg at this time chiefly occupied with her sctllc- mcnta in Canada, which had begun to flourish. St. Augustin and all Florida were about the same tima abandoned by the Spa- niards. About the year 1671, it was known in Canada, from the in- formation of Indians, that there was a great river to the west of New France, which neither flowed to the east nor to the north.* It was thought, it must either discharge itself into the gulph of Mexico or into the south sea ; and it therefore became a matter of importance that this should be ascertained. Frontenac the governor of Canada, accordingly sent the priest Marquette, with a trader mimed Joliet, accompanied by three or four men to explore this river. These persons ascend- ed the river of the Foxes, crossed to the Ouisconsing, Whi.Mi they descended to the Mississippi. They sailed down this river discovering some considerable tributary streams, the chief of which, the celebrated Missouri, was named by the Indians Pe- kUanoni. A few leagues below it, they found three large Indian villages of Illinoisf Little was done towards the further discovery of this region) until it was undertaken by the enterprising La Salle. This gen- tleman having descended the Mississippi in company with the Chevatier Tonti, discovered the mouth of the river, returned with a fixed resolution of attempting farther discoveries, and of establishing a cokny. He succeeded in obtaining a considerable force from the king of France und about the year* 1684, set sail from h Pochelle. But according to Charlevoix, from an unfortu- nate severity of temper which often produced acts very ill-timed, and from an over- weening confidence in his own abilities and resources, which led him^ to treat the opinions of others with Charlevoix. \\ ] I :', /) t The decrease of these people is astonishingly great. The fllinois in tlie recollection of the whites could bring eight or ten thousand warriors into the field. Shortly after the discovery of the Mississippi, a missiona- 'ry who went to establish himself amongst the Miamics, found three thousand warriors preparing for a war party. The Onlogainies were reckoned at a thousand families. bisCoVEfeY & SETTLEMENf.—Bbok h with her sclUc- St. Augiistln ted by the Spa* B, from the in- r to the vf est y every jJerson on board the ships ; and persisted wfth such bbstinaty that he would not even listen to proposals, of going with a boat to examine. It ^eems that from theoretic notions he had placed it further south. He arrived at the bay of St. Bernard, and noW discovered his er^ ror, but too late, for the haVal coihmander, becaitie as bbstinate as himsrelf, positively refused to return, and set him on shore wit mil hijs men and equipments. La Salle, biiilt a fort at this place, and irt a Short time afterWards set out for the Mississippi, but was assassinated by his Own people, bbfore he cOuld reach it. His whole company, with the eitception of three or four persons who reached Canada, finally perished', being either destroyed by tlie Indians Or taken prisoners by the Spaniards and condemned to the mines. The colonisation of the Mississippi was not abandoned In the year 1698, Mons. D'Iberville, a gentleman of considerable note in his day, as a naval commander and intrepid adventurer, Was sent ^ith twO ship^ in company with M. Chateaumorand to explore and settle the nouth of that mighty river. In 1699, he arrived at the bay of Pensacola, where three hundred Spuniardii had lately landed, having been sent from Vera Cruz, for the pur- pose of forming u bOlony. D'Iberville sent to them to reqUeist permission to Abater, but was refUsed. Continuing his route, he entered the Mobile, Which at that time aifdrded a fine harbor, but which Was afterivards choked Up by sand dVirihg a tempest. The first place at which he land- ed was an island, LUate de Maa^ccte (so nahned from the njangled bodies of Indians which first struck his sight, apparently butch- ered in a wanton manner,) but ^hich was afterwards called the IMe of DaUphin; D'Iberville from this island proceeded to the ihain land, and afterwards, accompanied by a number of his men, to the Mi3sissi{)pi ; which being discovered, he retimed to his vessels, entered and ascended the river a considerable distance, ahd erected a fort. He afterwards ascended as far as the Nat- chez, with which place he was so much pleased, that he conceiv- ed the idea of building; a city there, to be named Rosali c IS VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. The Misbis&ippi was at this time calleu St. Louis, the name given to it by La Salle, but the country on both sides of it was still known by the name ofFloinda; D'lbcrvilic was the first to change it, to tliat of Louisiana. About this period two English vessels arrived in search of the Mississippi, induced by the glowing descriptions of Father j^icnnepin, who had ascended, or pretended to have ascended, this river to its source. One of these vessels entered the river but did not attempt to land, or form any settlement. It appeared that this country was-also claimed by Britaii), from the discovc* vies of Sebastian Cabot, who sailed along the coast, without land- ing any where, and also by another title even more absurd than the Pope's bull, to wit, /n virtue of her own Charteva.* Thus had our in&nt French colony to contend with two great powers, one jealous of supposed encroachments, and the other envious of any new scheme of colonization on this continent. M. D'lberville left Louisiana in 1700; the colony was very inconsiderable and far from advancing rapidly. The principal settlement was at the Isle o£ Dauphb, noway suited to the pur- pose. It, however, still continued to live until the year 17 13^ receiving occasional supplies from France and maintaining a good undepstanding with the Spanish colony of Pensacola; they seem to have forgotten former animosities and frequently rendered each other mutual assistance. The Indians were also conciliated and lived in friendship with the colonists. In this yean* the commerce and government of Louisiana, was granted to Crosat who had two objects in view, the discovery of mines in the Illinois, and the trade with Mexico. In both these he completely failed. About this time the Natchez first began to display that enmity to the French, (occasioned perhaps by the injudicious conduct of the officers who commanded the difierent posts within the country) which afterwards proved so fatal ta themselves. The gold and silver mines of the Illinois could not be discovered ; and St. Deny s, an active and enterprising indivi* * See Marshall's life of- Washington and Bozman's History of M^r ryland. DISCOVeUY k 8ETTLEMKNT.— BOOK T. if v ere there ready to join thein> The fort was invested by soa autt land, and in a shprt time conptpelleU to Jiurrcndcr at discretion. In the year 1731, peace was concluded i>etwucn the two pow* ers ; one of the artipies ojT the trei^ty was the restoration of Pcn« ««coIa: abQUt the twrne time the council genei^al ordered the csr tablishmcnts of the Qjuloxi, to be ren\o,ved to New Orleand. At th^s period violent dissentions prevailed in the colony ', ^ great j^ropQriion of the eolonitta were perHons of the n^ost worthless and despici^ble class; these dissentiona. were in son>e measure fomented by the English o( Carolina,^ wlji^o we^e at the san^e time in the habit oji exciting th,e Indian nutioni. Fortunately for the f rench the Choctijiws then the Qtost powerful nation were gene- rally (aithful to them ; th^sf pcpplt: rapre than once saved the in- :l(snt cplony of (^ouisiana (ro\n tpta^ destvuptictfi. Thi^ was parti- cplarly shewn ip the wars with ^hp Nutphe^. In the your 172d in consequence of a plot fonned with great art and finesse, for the i^enei^al massacve pf the whites, the colony narrowly escaped destruption ; the settlempnts at Natchea; and at the Yatoo were entirely destroyed.* The dispoyery was made by the mother of the principal Sun, or chief, who de^ye>4 and '\n a g^oat ineasurc frustrated its execution. The mpde agrped on by the motions in the plot, and whp were at adistanpe frpn^ each qtlter, in different parts of the colony, ii> orde^ to. secure ca^T\ccrtio striktpg the blow on the same day, was a bundle of rod^ of the qan^e number, de- posited with pach. A rod was to be taken (ron^ the b^undle each day, ancj whep thpi^e should remain but one, pn that day the mas- sacre was to tpke place. The woman just piefitioned, drew out several rods, and in thi^ n^ianner hastened the attapk by the Natchez; n few who cscappd gave thp intelUgenpe at\d saved the rest of the colony. T^® Ind^ns rc^se, t^ut it ^as tpo late, the co- lonists were on their guard, find the Chqctaw^, came forward with alacrity in their defence. The settlen^ents oi^ the Mpbile owcc^ their preservation ef|pL|rely to, thpse people. M. Perier, who sucpeeded Qienyille as gpyeri^pr, prepared to take vengeance; he marched to the Natchez, with seven hun- dred Chocta\ys» joined to his own (prces. He defeated one of th<;ir * See a minute account of this alfair in Du Pratz. DISCOVEJIY k SETTLEMENT— BOOK I. 3i parties before his arrival at their town. The Nutchez were shut up in two forts, constructed after their own manner, and defend* ed tiicmselvcs with great obstinacy^, holding out for upwards of a month, notwithstandiiig that seven pieces of cannon were brought against them. The principal cause of this delay, however, wan the number cf prisoners in the possession of the besieged ; it was justly feared that should they be driven to extremity, these might be butchered. The forts at length surrendered, but on favor- pble terms ; delivering up their prisoners and giving hostages £6r their future good conduct. Several writers have taken it for granted that the Indiana were never in the habit of fortifying ; but the detail of the fore« going siege, minutely given by Charlevoix and others, sufiici* ontly refute the idea. The approaches were made in the usual forms, and in tlie course of the siege there were frequent sor- ties. The remains of Indian fortifications seen throughout the western country, have given rise to strange conjectures, and have been supposed to appertain to a period extremely remote ; but it is a fact well Iwown, that in some of them the remains of palisadoes were found by the first settlers. The Natchez were neither reconciled nor induced to rclin* quish their hostile designs. In 1731, it was found necessary to raise another army of whites and Indian auxiliaries, with the in« tention of putting an end for the future to all apprehensions from this troublesome nation. Under the command of M. Perier, this army aspended Red river, and afterwards Black river its tributary stream, to the place where the Natchez had fortified themselves in the greatest force. The siege was commenced on the SOth of January; the trench was opened and all the different works of the besiegers begun, and advanced apace during the rest of the day, and the whole of the night. The day following, the mortars and all tilings necessary for the attack, were brought on shore. Some bombs were thrown, which fell in the fort. The besieged made a sortie, killed a Frenchman and a negro but were repul- sed. On the 22d, bombs were thrown during the whole day but produced no great effect, and the besieged wounded two sol- diers. On the 24th, they hoisted a white flag; M. Perier at the ^pip time caused o^e to be hoisted at the head of a mast ; a short n V1BW8 OP LOUISIANA. !| time after, an Indian was seen advancing with « calumet in each liand. He brought proposals of peace, and offered on the part of his chief to return the prisoners and negroes in their possession. Terms of any kind would not be attended to unless the chief came in person ; this the Indian declared could not take place, but observed to M. Pcrier, if he would advance to the corner of his entrenchment, the great chief would come to tli6 end of his Fort. The Indian was dismissed with the message to his chief, that if the prisoners and negroes were delivered up, the general would then declare his further determination. These being brought and dtlirercd to M. Pertcr, he declared that unless the great chief came to him in person he would continue the siege, and deny all quarter. The chiefs finally agreed to surrender, and with them the greater part of the people ; the remaindtsr wIiq re- fused to give themselves up found means during some very hea- vy rains to escape and join the rest of the nation. About two hundred were fortified some distance un the Red river, but were attacked and destroyed by St. Denys. Titdse that fell into the hands of tlie French were disposed of as slaves ; a thing very unusual in their conduct towards thc: Indians, \rhich has been marked with a greater degree of kindness than perhaps that of any of the European nations, but which on this occasion, nuiy be ascribed to the known treachery and unconquerable enmity of these people. From that day the Natcher no longer existed as a nation. I have been more minute in detailing the circumstfinces of this aifair, than perhaps might lie deemed necessary ; but it has excited much interest, and is generally viewed by writers as of importance in history. In the same year Louisiana was rctroceded to the king of France, and Monsieur Perier appointed^overnor. I have taken a rapid view of the first settlement of Louisiana ; it is not my in- tention to enter ujwn a history of the province, this would not accord with the plan of these cursory Views. I shall only ob- serve that even as late as the year 1736, the colony was incon- siderable, confined to some trifling settlements at the Beloxi. on the Mobile, and on the Mississippi, at New Orleans and Natchez. The greatest draw back on the prosperity of the colony was the B0UNDAR1E9.->B00K I. J89 calumet in etcb ;d on the part of heir possession, unless the chieC »t take place, but he corner of his > end of his Fort, his chief, that if « general would ! being brought inless the great e the siege, and > surrender, and maindfcr whQrc* 5 some very hea- on. About two d river, but were lat fell into thd ps ; a thing very v;hich has been k perhaps that of jccasion, may be erable enmity of iger existed as a :ircumst|inces of ssary ; but it has by writers as of d to the king of lor. I have taken ; it is not my in- , this would not I shall only ob< Qlony was incon- at the Beioxif on uns and Natchez. B colony was the injudicious practice of monopolies. The inhabitants could only dispose of their prodUbC t» the Company, and at such prices as k chose to establish. Charlevoix complains that although the Spaniards did not act as openly as the English, against a colony at which they had taken great umbrage: yet that they had taken their measures more ef- fectually to arrt&t its progress* unU tu prevent the formation of any new cstabUalimcnt. He says, " They have in iact succeeded even till now,* in retaining us by the pursuit of a contemptible tradei between the stream which was neglected to bo settled,! and Pensacola, on a sandy coast^ on an islandy not belter, unci upon a river,$ which^ although well enough to occupy, is yet not fitted for any great plan of colonisation. It must be confess- ed, that on this occasion M. D'lberville was not judicious, or that he had no time to carry his designs into execution.'* CHAFrSR U. BOVNDARIES OF LOUISIANA. HAVING taken a cursory view of the discovery and firss Kttkment of Louisiana, I now enter upon a subject of no small difBculty^nd perplexity ; the discussion of the boundaries of thi& province. Difficulties have already occurred, and it is feared thai others will yet arise, before the matter be finally adjus'.'d. From the foregoing chapter, it will appear to the reader, tha« although in point of settlement and first discovery, the French might fairly be considered as having the best claim to Florida, yet the subsequent dereliction, fior so great a number of years, gave the Spaniards a just right to occupy it, as a country own- ed only by the natives. We have seen, that Pensacola, during th* war which preceded the treaty of 172 1, was taken by the Frencii, but afterwai'ds surrendered in consequence of that treaty..— * 1736. t Miwissipvi. * Beloxi. (| Isle Dauphin. § MobilQ, ^^ VIR\V9 op LOUISIANA. ) !;i ■■ Frnnde, was therefore crinfined to th« llmlta taeitljr itit>ulntert oi^ u^iTed on, before the war, or at lenst to the ptirt, of i»hlbh ithr uctuully enjoyed iMssetitlon t it docs not uppcMr thnt thU xnk^ ever alteiTd until the country wii« tr»niltrred by Fmnce to Spuin. What those Un.its were, between what retained the nhmo of Klo- ridti, und the FiTnch poaseMionH to the east of the MlsRl»sippi, is tolurttbly well defined by seventl wriierii the French lArcrb Un- doubtedly in )M>HHesaion on the Mobile, und Lu liarpe expressly declsres the Jiio Pcfdido to bo the bountlMry. But the boundaries of this provit^cb like those of ntany other of ihe Americsn colonies, were very vugue, and given by writers who were inilueuced by national vanity, or guided by the iM>liti* cal vieWs of government. It is certain that Louisiana in the haitdn of France, did eHtend a very considerable distance eai^t of the MissiHHippi ; this is acknowledged by early writer! most dis|M)k- ed to dispute her title. Dr. Postlcthwuyte in his Dictionary of Commerce, after apetking of the diflicullies of ascertaining the bolt;- 'aries of Louisiana, observes, " that certain it is, that Lou- isiana contains the greater part of those new discovered lunda east and west of the Mississippii which tet first had the name of Florida." L A q'^estion has arisen whether Louisiattu by virtue of the cession to us, is held in the sumo extent as it was holden by France previous to the Qd of November 1763; that isito tiio Perdido on the east side of the Mississippii for it cun scurcely be doubted that previous to the period just mentioned, it did ex- tend to that river. To render the ^tubjcct more clear it will bo necessary to ascend to first causes, and to take a view of thoso which induced the diflTeront transfers. As soon as the settle- nients on the Mississippi and in the Illinois, had taken a firm foot- ing, tho design was formed of uniting them with Canada, mtder the name of Now France ) a young scion that in time would huvo vivalled und perhaps surpassed New-England. M. D Anville 'under the patronage of the Duke of Orleans, executed u map of New France which inclutled the whole extent of country west of tho Allegany mountains. To the whole ul the valley of thn ^lisaiss'iipi, France hud probably the most just claim, us the dJH- •'ovcrcr of the American Nile; aad ua the firnt to form eatublish* iBfttTMt>Alli:.B.-tlOOK SI t, of nulth nhe ftf that this Wttrt FrHnce to Hpuin. the numo of Flo- the Mi»«Usippi» Frettch lArcrb tiii- lUrpo expr«»tily aw of many other I given by writers tied by the jM)lUi- Hittnu in the hands tunce eait of the torn moat cUs|»oh- hia Dictionary ol" f ttsceriuining the ttin It la, that Lou- cliacovered lunda t hud the nume of in by virtue of the I waa holden by V2 ; that Ui to tiio or it cun acrtrccly ntloned, It did ex- ro cltar it will bo D tt view of tbosO ion uft the aettlc- taken a firm fool- iih Canada, under > time would huvo d, M. U Anvllle xccuiod u map of of country went tho valley of tho t clwim, aa the diw- 10 form estubllsh* InehtA on nil Us |*rcat rivrrik. But ihls^ interfered wUh the DrU \\a\\ chaMcrs which extemled IndeHnltf ly tb ihr Weai ; another inap was pwbliahed (probably under the direction of the ndnin- try) reairlctlng France to inuch r»niTt)n*'r llmlta. The dlaputo was settled by a wuv in which Fruiwe lont nil her poaseasionJ In thU quarter of the world. Canada fulDng into the bands of llrltaln, and Fra^ice; feurlv.R that the like htti might attend Lou- Uiana, by a secret treaty of the Sil Nov. I7ft4, ceded to Spain to much of this province as lies beyond the Mia&UHl)lpl, together wlih the isle of Orleans ; and by the trc *ty ol peace whlcn follow- ed in 1 76.1, tho whole tevritory of f-Wnr. and iS/)o^/. . eastward of \he river Mlailasippl to tho invar Iberville, thence through the n\lddle of that river ai)d tho lakes Ponttharttaitt to tho Nea« was ceded to Great Brituln. ^ ' ' ^ ' it will be rerollected that during the American revolution, Spain taking part With the United Siutes, conquered the Floridas from Great Britain, and they were confirmed to her by the trtm- ty of If 83 } she thus ic-attached 10 Louisiana, the part, which, by her)«/iir act tvUh /-Vttnce, had bi;en k^parated from It, at the wane period that Florida was cctled by Siwln to Brltnhi. That part ol* Louisiana onco more came under tho government of the pro- vince. A aepnrate one was formtd of Flori(k of which Peu8««> cola betame the caphal. By the treaty of St. lldefonso, Spain ceded back to the Frencli republic, «* Ihe colony or pitivlnce of Louisiana, >tlth the same fcxtetu that U athuiily had in the hnuda qf Sftainy and thct it hcfd When Fiynncr fiometied :";, and -uch as it ought to be after the treaties subsrciuently entered into between Spain ahd oth«i' States.*' This treaty was confirmed by that of Madrid 1 801 . Td Ihe United Slates, it was ceded by Fnmce r.i, the 30ih AprH 1803, With a iHsferenco to the forti^olng cIuub?> as descriptive of Us Undts. This brief exi^oaltlon ml^ht be deemed svilBi lent, and th0 ftble view of the subject by Mr. Gallatin plnrrs U Iwyond doubt. U is a fact well kituwn in this country, that tho conunandimt« lul at Mobile I Uotig prepii np their |>osta to \\t Uidteil States, and that it was owing to some over* aJBhi in lite comn\ls»loncrs that po»?«ea«iion wan not actwalW taken. I 36 VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. It is not a new clidm set up on the spur of the occasion i the first acts of congress relative to Louisiana, expressly provided for the government of this, as wcU as of other parts of the province. A recapitulation of the facts will place the subject in aelearer light. 1. France, previous to the year 1762, possessed as far as the Per- dido. 3. By the treaty of that date, she ceded to Spain not the whole of Louisiana, but only so much of it, as lay west of the Mis* sissippi, &c. 3. France jointly with Spain, ceded to Britain east of the same river. Sec. 4. Spain re-attached to Louisiana, that part which she had jointly with France ceded in the manner before inentioned. Spain ceded the province to France in the santc ex- tent as was then held by her, and as it had been held by France when she possessed it, and was again ceded by the latter to the United States in the same extent. Some have been deceived by the term West Florida^ and have supposed a separate govern- ment to. have existed under this name, but the fact is that it was first distinguished in this manner after it fell into the hands of Britain. IL The boundaries of Louisiana to the S. W. and the N< £• still remain in doubt and obscurity In fact, from the variety of claimants, and the ignorance of the geography of the country in the first instance, it was scarcely to be expected that the limits could be clearly and satisfactorily defined. Father Hennepin and Mons. La Salle, bounded Louisiana on the east by the AUeghe- ]ay mouutams, on the south by the gulph of Mexico, and on the S. W. by the Spanish settlements ; on the N. and W. they deny any boundary. Oe Lisle and Mons. D'Anville assign as the boundary in the quarter of Mexico, the Rio Bravo. Others contend that it was contained within the 25° and %0 of N. lati- tude. France certainly claimed to the Rio Bravo ; and this has been expressed in an official act, the Grt\nt to Crosat. It is not clear that our executive is not bound to nic^intain thh claim un- til expressly waved by the competent authority ; the sovereign which our government suceeds, had declared the right, and actu- ally exercised jurisdiction. These are political acts, and it is dif- ficult to say how just or reasonable the causes which induced them. There is no question but that France had undisturbed possession as far as the Rio HondO) (west of Natchitochesj and PACE OP COUNTRY, &c.— BOOK I. ^7 »slon -f Uie firsl trovided for the he province. A » a clearer light, s far as the Per- to Spain not the west of the Mis* d to Britain east uisiana, that part e manner before i in the san.c ex- 1 held by France f the latter to the oeen deceived by separate govern- fact is that it was into the hands of W. and the N. E. •om the variety of of the country in ted that the limits her Hennepin and it by the Alleghe- exico, and on the and W. they deny ille assign as the lo Bravo. Others and %0 of N. lati- •avo ; and this has Crosat. It is net :ain thi* claim un- ity ; the sovereign he right, and actu- al acts, and it is dif- ses which induced e had undisturbed Natchitoches; and that a fort was built by La Salle, on the bay of St. Bernard ; it is said that its remains are still visible. The United States have declared the Sabine to be the boundary of the State of Louisiana, but there is no declaration liow much further our claim may be considered as extending. Should Mexico achieve her indcpen- dence, the amicable disposition which will probably be felt will render this more easy of arrangement. It would not be difficult to fix this boundary by taking either the Trinity, Brasses de Diosv or Guadaloupe, of the bay of St. Bernard, following the course of one of these rivers to its source, from thence pursuing a N. W. direction to the Cordilleras, and following these so as to in- clude all the waters of the Mississippi and of the Missouri. Na- cogdoches, St. Antonio, Labourdi, and a few other inconsider- able settlements, would be the only ones included. Other ar- langements might perhaps be made still more to the satisfaction of the parties. It is not more easy to assign the boundary to the N. W. and N. Perhaps the 50° of N. latitude would be the roost certajui and just. CHAPTER III. FACE OF THE COUNTRY — CHANGE WHICH A PART HAS PROBA- BLY UNDERGONE— -CLIMATE— EXTENT AND IMPORTANCE. This extensive portion of North America, h<\s usually been described from a small part which is occupied by the settle- ments; as though it were limited to the borders of the Mississip- pi, as Egypt is confined to the vicinity of the Nile. Some repre- sent it, in general description, as a low flat country, abounding in swamps and pu'ujcct to inundation. Others speak of it us one vast wilderness ; *' Missouri marches through hia world of woods.'* But if Louisiana were to be described like other countries not from a particular spot, but from its general appearance, we should say that it is an extensive region of open plains and mea- 'lo^sj interspersed with bare untillable hills, and having some sa VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. ilfl resemblance to. the Stepps of Tartary, or the Saara's of Afripa, but without the morasses and dull uniformity of the one, or the dreary sterility of the other. The tracts lying op the great rivers constitute the most important pat'ts of Loubiana» but are very inr considerable in geographical extent, when cqcapared with the remainder. These tracts are principally on the Mississippi, Missouri, Arkansas and Red river. They are yallies, seldom ex- ceeding ten or twelve mUes in width, uf a soil exceedingly rich and produ^ctivc, but much interspersed with lakes and rc&uent current^ or bjayous. To gi>ve a more perfect and satisfcictory vie^v of this extensive cqi^ry, it will t^e found convenient to divide it into three parts. 1. The regiqns beyond the settlen^ents. 2. The territory of the M^issouri. 3. The state of Louisiana. Volney has properly called the country drained by the Mis- sissippi and Its waters, a valley ; hut it is. to be observed that the 'western side is nearly three times, aa large as the other, and tra- versed by much more considerable rivers. The mountains which bound it on the vf est and S,. W- are of a much greater magnitude than thff Alleganies. To pursue some plan, in these Views, I propose to take up the Qrst book, with some gei^al description of Louisiana, its rivers, soil and productions, and to give in the next book, a more detailed account of the territory of the Missouri, and of the. state of Louisiana — The {(o.cky Mountains are wit!houtossible, there may have been a lower range, which from the change produced by tiia wearing away of the earth has gradually disappeared. Some of the pecuiiarhies of climate may be noted in thl» place. Th« height of this western region, and the opcn^Iahf; VIEWS OP LOtJISf At^A. ''?^ /I which compose it* cause it to possess a pare elastic air. Thli sky has a more delightful blue, than 1 evM^sa# ahy where else; the atmosphere in a serene, calm evening is so clear, that a slight smoke can be discerned at a distance of many miles ; and is of great importance to the Indians in detectmg their enemieqi and in giving warning; but it also exercises their caution in the highest degree. In point of health, it is unnecessary to Say any thing ; such a country must necessarily be Salubrious. The heat of the sun is greatest in the month of July, And at that time* is not less intense than in other parts of the continent, but it is render^ ed more supportable by the breezes which continually fan the air. Spring opens about the last of April^ and Vegetation is itii considerable forwardness by the middle of May. Such fruits as the country affords, principally^ berries, sahd cherrieW, tufraiitdji do not ripen Until the latter end of July. 1 found strawberries ripe about the fourth of that month, near the Mandan villages; Plumbs ripen in the latter end of August. The winter sets in th before it teaches the ; i i'AOB or COWTW, k^^^OOK I. ffrtiijt rmei^olr, thmli ikh ba bo w«H inMn<)< This jeficMncjis ' i» (nothcr amongst thff iropcdUiMiU to the MttlQmfint of that vast wante. According (o the bOfUndaika beforA lai4 down* l^ouliiawk b «t Icaati QQQ third larger than (h« raat of the Uii)t«d States* ao4 cootaina iittl« abort of one miUion m4 an half aquare mUea. But wa ahould be gready decvivad tf in Kstimaang ita importwof we taka into view only ita geograpbieal extent Coaatitming tJn$ central or interior part of North America, ^ greater portioa x)f it, is at too remote a distance from the ocean to have an eaay and advantageoua commiinicaUnn with the reat of the worid.-« When compared td other parta of America it may be consider- ed as badly watf9[ired» wd devoid «f that facility of intercourse from navigable rivers which thciy {Kkaaeoa* I am to be undsn- stood, aa apeaUng of Ij>uiaiana generally ; there are exceptiow to these general ehaervationa : the territory of the Miatouri, and the state of Louiaiaaat are amply sufficient to make aroenda fior tiie nnpremiaing cbaractar of the reinainder> they may be jiutly reckonedamongstthe moat intereatingportiona of the American empire. From what haa faeen already aaid, it will be aeen that the pr«-, ruling idea of thoae weatem re^^s, being like the rest of the United Statest susceptible of cultivation, and aflor^bag endleaa out-leta to aetUementa, ia erroneous. Theaa outlets when com- pared tp the extent gf country are extremely limited ( they ure much lesa considerable than en the eastern aide of the Miaaia- feippi. The nativea will probah^ remain In quiet and undistnrh- ■ ed possession, for at least a. century, for until our country be- come^ in aome degree aurcharged with pep^iation, there ifi bcarcely any probability of settlera venturing far into thoae re- gions. A different mode of life, hidiits altogether new and auif- ed to the situation, would have to be adopted. Settlementa would hpve to be strung along water coursea at such distances from each other, that they could not protect theniitelvea from the wa»> dering tribes. The distance from market, and the difiBculties of reaching it, would render the agricultural produce ef little or ne value. Yet, I am convinced, that did not the Indians ppaaesa it, there would ip a very short time, be mapy small grqupa of lev E /> yii5W8 6t i^omsiAT^A \':->&' J I' h' tletn«nts 'icattored throtif^h it. This countrft it itf ceilaint coli never become agricultural) but it is in many respects liiKhly f»- vourablc to the multtpUcution of flocks und herds. Those dc- liglMful B|>6ts where the beouty and variety of landscapOf miglvC challenge the fane progress uf improvements. There is also a consideration which will strike at the first view.; the vast open plains which separate us from the Mexican pro- vinces will for a long time prevent any serious difiiculties as to boundary where there exists so little data for determining it. To dilate upon the political advantages of Vie acquisition of Louisiana would fill a volume. It may be regarded as one of the most fortunate occurrenoes in our history. Had this country -continued in the hands of any other power, it is iiighly probable -that we should have been involved in expensive wars, or per- haps a separation of the western, states might have tuken place. •To thesci states the free navigation of the Mississippi is abso- lutely necessary, and while Louisiana remained in the posses- sion of any European nation it would always have been subject to interruption. This consideration alone would have been worth the price paid for the province. The connection between the ex- istence of a republic and the extent of its territory, ia still a vex- ata guettio amongst politicians, and can only be decided by the experiment of ours. I will only venture to suggest one idea. In a small extent of country there is danger from the momentary bias of popular opinion ; the fiermaneni intercstsy may not be sufficiently diversified, and should tlie confederacy divide on this FACE OF COUNTRYr &c.— DOOK I. subject* into two great particsf. nothing, cun long retain them in union. In an exteniitve region like ours* even with the uidof our ihoutand ne wa fia/i era ^^pulav feeling cannot be suddenly arous< cd to such a pitch of pasftion and phrenzy, aa to break down thu barriers of feason; and the northern and southern interests, (of which wo hear; are neutralized by the weight of set^cml impidt*- tant states whose interests are connected' with thut bf both. Tht western states, like the southetn, w6 devoted to agilttiUbre, but at the same time, dejiiMident oh' tHc tdtninorce of iti6^ lioi'thc^m for the conveniences ahd luxuries 6f life. ^ " I /; ; ^mv.^d. The acctiritjf'^o^r westetn scttlement^'Wlfl ddrlvji 'a^iKir^ (^'^ numerous tribes bf lavages, who woultf bo at the disposal of atijf' ]^6wer holding Louisiiitia, may be ranktd lirndngst the niosi'bei'- tain advantages of the ttcqulsitlbti. Oat* vicinity to thb MexieaK provinces wilt enable tii( to carry '(im a trade, which If permitted to be free, must In a iiliort time become of iiidfltculkble value. Il is ardently to be wished that these people during their present struggles iHay be able to throw off the foreign governtnent) -which ruled theih as it were by the epellsst barren, is beyond ct^cul^- tioh. The territory of the Missouri, anil the state 6^ l^uistanaj are equal in extent to any three of the largest itdtes; containing every variety of soil and climate, and cipkbte ot proH^tfcin^ what- feyer may administer to thie convenience 'c»r luxury bf niari ; 'ricH in mhierais, fertile in soil, and favorably Situated for cv^ry «Joiii- inerctf and manulacture. "^'i^f^^ttff;d«-r:?i?u': . .ii^ili ■' • ■' • . ' • : ■ /.ii ii*no:i:u6hoT'{: '-; ji]b '■''■■■■ -^ : . -J ... .>:, ,■ . ,: .^ . .rirjiiud. Id VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. tUAFl £R IV. u II lAKll AITD ftlTtoRlS, in 90 great an extent of countrjrv it u not surprning there should be man; navigable rivefs. lo Louisiana there are not leM than tJiree hundred streama adapted t^ the purpoaes of na« ▼igation, and yet this section of the great valley of tlte Mississip- pi, lA far from being as well watered aa that on the eastern side, fiprings are less abundanti and the rivera depend,f:hiefly for their fUpply on rainsi and on, the meUing of the snow:^ It is a rewark which appliea to yearly ^. |he larger rivers aiq the western side of the Miasisaippi> which Uke tbcii* rise, ii^ the great mountains, where springs are ntunerou^ and the strcqima clear and limpid* that while ^ry flow through the mountainous country* thejf pos- sess deep aod qlear, channels, apd i^re of ea^ navigation, but on catering the Ipwe^ country, spread outi become broad and ^hal- IpWi even, ceasing to be navigable ior a long distance. The Mis- sQj^l aad JSlissi&sifi^i, are perhaps the only exceptions. 9ut tbo^e which rise short of the primitive mountains are navigable irit^^ci^rcel^ any iitercM^pn to theii; sQ^cc^ which are ofteo in.Wtes.. . ',•■. . Jn upper Louisiana thp^e are but few lakes except thoae near the heads of the Miaaissippi- The lake of the Woods, the lesser \Vinipec, Leech lake, tied Cedar lake (supposed to be the source of the Mississip^^Uake ^e Sable, <&c.^e the moat considerable ef,th^se. There ;».e several lakes between the Missouri, and tKe Nr yff, chaui, but ^he country is yet but little known. It is supposed that Uke VifinijpeC) pe^hafia the largest of all those in- land seas, comes yritbin the territory ot the United States £ven if in pur limits of Louisiana^ v(e should he bounded by a rifiie.4^.e west, from that Q^^hich, terminates the liije of the United States, it is probable that the Kcurce ,of the ^is.si»sippi is further north than the southern side of lake Winipec- This lake receives a number of very considerable rivers, and is dis- charged into Hudson's Bay by Nelson^s river ; it is connect- ed with other lakes to the north-west, and has from the rivers emptying into it, an inconsiderable portage to the waters of lake Superior. LAKES It WtfinS.-lOOK I. IT In lower Loimisnaf there aie a great number of lakes from the refluent waterv of the Mitsitsippit and from the upland fttrcams which low themaclteB in the lorel. These will be cnu- ynerated and more particutorly described, in the account of the state of Louisiana, as also the lakes Pontchartrain, and Maure- jias, on the east side of the Mississippi ; which although usual' ly known tinder the name of lakes, might with more propriety be considered bs bayS) as they are immediately connected with the sea. in this place I shall gif« some detailed account of the great rivers; ftSBcrving Che less considerable for the place wliere I fhM Bpetik oTthe sections of country which they trarerse. THE MISSISSIPPI. To enter into all those particulars respecting this nd>le ri* ver^ which writers have deemed worthy of notice, would far ex- ceed the bounds !to which I am confined. Beaides, it is so well known from dw writnigs of many intelligent persons, that by en- tering into such detail^ my task wouid be little more tlian that of cottipitatibn. The Mtssiosippi (or Mitcfaasip{M, the fiither of stneasini) justly rinks amoogst the most magnificent rivers in the world ; whether we consider hs extent, the astonishing awm- bet and magnitude -of its tributary riven, or the amaxistg scops «f fertile hinds wiiich it traverses ; watering at least a fourth x£ the habitable part of North America. The comparison to the Kile not uhfipequeotly made, b far from giving just conceptiom cf its magnitude and impoitance.* h. is only with the equally tioble and vast rivers of the New World, it can be properly as- biraihilied. it differs £rom these m one particular ; instead of a ichannel iproparthmed to its extent4und magnitude, it gives hs tri- bute to the voedB by'innunwrabiie out^lets and natural canals. Tiie Dr/radf this river is said to extend several degrees of lon- gitude, the f^oklbrnied with earth brougiit down by the stream. I^'haps at ^ chunnelu of the MuHihtiippi. It b t jico«tHi)gly Uin\cult to give an itiettuf the country bor^ dcring ou the MiimiMaippi below the mouth of the Uhto. Homo have repreaenteil the river &h running through a nwunipt other»i that during the season of flootla it may l>e con»iUercil as a river thirty miles wide { the whole country in this extent being unUtf water. It caniiut properly be called a aMfumfl according to tho understanding of the word* that is* an almost irr^-ulainiabK) nxu- rass, or marsh ; there are certainly large tracts during tho flood* completely inundated, particularly below Kud river, but are «gain di7 when they subside. If the reader were to conceive un idea that the valley or alluvion of the Mississippi, ia at tho»e times covered by a continued shct of water, he would be deceived: but when the flood ia at its height, tho whole valley or idluviou country, is replenished with water, every where iu motion, through the innumerable canals and lakes scattered through it| making hs way towards the sea, leavings however, Urge tracts perfectly di*y. Above Med river the ground is rising every year by the accumulation of vegeutble substance, and by the depos'w tion of earthy matter where the ground uverflows^— the peiioil is not distant when the greater part will be entirely abuve the reach of inundation. Above this river several sottleunentii liad been formed on the rivers and bayoux between tl^e MissiHHip[u iind uplundi and for live or six yeai's were notaflVcied by \\\c ri&« iup of the waters; it was not UcU the extraoru;>iary ilood of 1811, that most of them were ubaudonud, yet such a quantity of sediment was deposited that year, that it will require a floud oil considerably greater height to afl'ect them. It may be vvoithy of remark, that the alluvial hnnks are generuily highest ou the western side; there are many places where the river due:, not break over them in the highest Poods, by twelve or eigliitcii inches, though th» ground is overflowed iu the rear, luavitig on P /^ mott trifling rivulet will be higher ou the \>M\k. ihun at some Uiktancn from it I the groaacr mtd niuiu weighty miitirr brought iluvvn by the streain beiug dniiuaited tient marks of attrition by the waters, to the height of at least ten feet above the highest floods. Tlie same thing may be also observed on the western side. Possibly the rivrr n»ay have been once six or seven miles wide at this place, and included be* tween the bluffs. Or there may have been a lake, which by the operation of various causes may have '-^een drained. Thik idea suggested itself to me from the examination of a remark-* tible place on the Mississippi, eight or ten miles above the vii« lage of Cape Girardeau, called the Grand Tower, which, though scarcely known, hiay be justly considered one of the greatest cu' riosities of the river. At this place the bVuffs on the western ude are close to the river ; and on the eastern, a narrow bottom lies between it and the bluffs ; the hills on both sides at this point) seem RIVERS & LAKES.^BOOKI. 41 to converge, and from the appearance of huge fragments of rocV, one ift led to believe that here wat formerly a cataract. The tow- er ift one of these fragments, about sixt>' yards from the western bank, (which is a steep rock) and is about fifty feet in height ; its form nearly circuJar, some handsome cedars growing on the top : on the opposite side of the river there is another huge detached rock, but round which the water doe* not flow except in extraor- dinary floods}* between this and the blufl^s there are several other fragments of rock, possessing every appearance of once having formed a regular chain, through which the Mississippi, by the aid of time, or some convulsion of nature has made itself a chanhet; It is a dangerous place and difficult to ascend, as well as to descend in safety. Between this, and the mouth of the Ohio, there are to be seen in variouf places, detached rocks on the shot«,and on the beads of islands, evidently rolled down by some mighty and unusual current. ' It is the opinion of many persons, that the Mississippi is a continuance of the Missouri; of this there can be little doubt. The Mississippi after its junction with that river assumes its ap- pearanec and character in every particular except the general course i the colour of their waters can be distinguished for six-* ty mites ; but in the fdluvia, sand bars, islands, rafts, current, and the timber on its borders, the Missouri is preserved. Per- haps it might have been more proper to have given a new name to the river which has been the result of this junction. Above the Missouri, the Mississippi is clear and limpid, like the Ohio, and bordered by a country extremely b^autiful^ with many fertile spots, but is not to be compared to that on the Ohio for settlements. The greater part consists of naked plains, which promise little to the husbandman. Excepting the cata* racts of St. Anthony; this river has but one t r two serious in- terruptions in the navigation for at least sixteen hundred miles above St Louis : but its channel generally abounds with shoals, and sand bars, the current, however, gentle. It is not an easy matter to point out exactly its source, several of tlie branches • There is arcroarktblc cavi in this rock, called by the American^ the Devirs Oven ; stories arc r -lated of persons having- g'one in afld nev- er returning'. . t u ViEWa OF LOUISIANA, rr /» /^ into which it divides near its head, might claim this honoi*. It does not take its rise in a mountainous country, and yet it must be of coiisidei'able height, from the number of imik>rtant rivers >vhich ilow from tlie surne neighbouiiiood. The country abounds in lakes and extensive marshes, among which the Mississip^ pi takes its rise. A narrow ridge of high iand separates it from the waters of lake Wtnipcc. Red Cedar lake, in lat. 47" 38' is considered by Pike as its soiurce, this is but a few miles from Red lake in which Red river takes its rise ; here is therefore an easy communicadon with tne waters which discharge themselves into Hudson's bay. . ^ Tiie appearance of the Mississippi in descending, ^^ies but little. On entering from the Missouri we find ourselves in a more spacious river : in places where large islands divide the current, it spreads to a great width, sometimes of several miles } yet when tliis is not the case the cnannel of the river is but lit- tle wider than at the Mandan villages, though at that place it is only filled in the season of high water. The navigation is con- sidered dangerous from the Missouri to the mouth of the Ohio, on account of the great number of sawyers and rafts. Below this fine river, no perceptible difference takes place in point cf mag- nitude, and from the St. Francis to Red river, the genera) width scarcely exceeds that of the Missi uri. At Point Coupe6 iv as- sumes a more majestic appearance, and from this place con- tinues a course, uninterrupted by islands and sand bars, with a current gradually diminishing The adjacent scenery is as little varied. The banks are cover- ed with cotton wood trees, of enormous size, thf* tops apparently as level as if made so by design. Scarcely any other tree grows on the island. Below the mouth of the Ohio, the cypress makes its appearance in the benC?^ where the ground is lower than on the points and subject to be overflown. The arundo giganticay appears about the same place, on the spots of ground least sub- ject to uiundatlon. It grows to the height of twenty feet, forming an impervious thicket. The long moss, or Spanish beard begins to be set-n below the Arkansas, and gives a gloomy appearance to the woods. The falling in of the banks is amongst the most remarkable features of this river; sometimes whole acres with RIVEnS & LAKES.— BOOK I. 43 ^c trees growing on them are precipitated into the stream, are- atin g frig htf ul impediments to the " vigation, and not unfrequent- ly overwhelming boats moored near the shore. In time, the trees thus fallen in, become sawyers and planters ; the first so named from the motion made by the top when acted upon by the cur- rent* the others are the trunks of trees of sufficient size to resist it. There are also frequently seen at the heads of islands, im- mense collections of drift wood, piled up to a great height, thrown confusedly together and closely matted : here are found, boats, canoes, planks, and a great variety bf timber, brought down by the rivers of a hundred climates and soils, and heaped togeth- er in chaos. These are amongst the most dangerous places in the course of the navigation.* The current rushes towards them with amazing velocity, and it is with great difficulty and the ex- ertion of skill, that they are avoided. It is therefore dangerous to float after night The Mississippi is remarkable for the muddiness of its wa^ ters, a quality altogether derived from the Missouri, but is less turbid than that river ; the waters above the junction, being clear, the 9'''*^ssion of the Illinois, Ohio, and other clear streams tend- ing also to render it more limpid than the Missouri. It is not from the falling in of the banks, as is supposed, that this mud- diness proceeds ; this is scarcely sufficient to supply what is de- posited by the river on sand bars, islands, &c. between the up- per Missouri, (from whence the earth forming it is carried) and the mouth of the river. There is a surprising diffbremje in the navigation of this tru- ly noble river, in the ordinary stages of water and during the con- tinuance of the floods. There have been instances of persons de- scending from St Louis to New Orleans, in ten days ; the dis- tance, however, is much shortened by being able to cut off points, and to go through channels impracticable in low water. The usu- al time in lew water is from four to six weeks. In ascending, fifty days to the mouth of the Ohio is considered a good voyage, but two months is the most usual time ; oars and poles are al- * For a more minute account of the diffioultles of the navigation, and for many interesting details, I refer the reader to the Ohio and Alissij^ Mppi Navigator /> J" 44 VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. L^^s used for the purpose of navigating the boats, but the cor^ delle, and sails, are also of great importance. Ip the course of a voyage it is rare that tlieru are not six or eight days, of ssaHnf^i which is a greut relief to the hands, as the boat is then propel- led against the current without their assistance, sometimes, thir- ty miks a day. In very light winda. the sails are hoisted and aX' though Tiot sufficient alone to cause the boat to ascend, yet af- ford considerable help. Th^ boats usually employed are from ten to tiiirty tons burthen; as high as Natchez, schooners of fif- ty tonii often ascend. Therf are, besides, between the places just mentioned, a kind cf boats of a peculiar copistruction, much in use, and carrying often eight or ten tons: they appear to be formed of a single tree, but in reality out of three of the largest size; two are hollowed in such a manner as to form the sides, and a third for the bottom : they are then joined together so as to make a very durable and strong boat, easily managed, »Qd the most safe agdinst hurricanes and vicrfent winds. The Mississippi carries generally 15 feet water from the saouth of the Missouri to the Ohio, from thence to the Red ri- ver, it seems to increase in depth : at this place it has aa many fatiioms) and at New Orleans not less than forty. On the bar, there are usually from twelve to fourteen Seet, aUbough the wa- ter rises at the, mouth <^ the Ohio fifty feet, and but little dim- inution is experienced before we pass Natchez; atB&ton Rouge it is not more than 25 feet, at New Orleans only fifteen, sad at the mouth of the river, is scarcely perceptible. The floods of the Mississippi usually begm in April ; com- mencing with the first flood of the Missouri which is usually in March, on the breaking up of the ice ; this is followed by the Missisfiippi above the junctipni afterwards by the Ohio, and other rivers. The great flood of the Missouri begins io June, shortly after which those of the Mississippi, iu consequence at- tain their greatest height It subsides in Augus^. A very unu- sual occurrence took place this winter (1812) in the month of I)ec^mber» the river rose to within two or three feet of the high- est water and continued to be high until the latter end of the xnontb* The oldest inhabUabta bad never witnessed sny tbifig of the kind. I RLVERS ll LAKE8.^B00K I. 4S MlSSOUltt. I have already observed that this is much the most consider- able of anjr of the rivers which swell the Mississippi* and one of the most wonderful in the world. It enters the Mississippi nearly at right angles in lat. 38** 55' ; the confluence is by no means comparable to that of the Obioy principally owing to an island at the entrance. The course of the river in ascending b little north of west to the Flattest Above this, its course is nearr ly N> W. until we reach the Mandan villages, in lat. 46. From this point the distance to the Mississippi is less than from the Platte. From the northernmost part of the great bend) above the iMandans, and in lat. 47° wc ascend nearly west; the course of the three forks, Jefierson) Madison, and Gallatinj is nearly S. W. and S. ^ The current of this river is at least a fourth greater than that of the Mississippi. To the Platle, it is amazingly swift, and stem- med with great difficulty, abounding with shoals and sand bars, sawyers, rafts projecting from the shore, and islands. It is al- most impracticable to descend in fiat-bottomed boats, even in the highest stages of the water : in barges great care and dexterity are requisite. It is far from being agreeable in appearance, un- less we consider the pleasure derived from contemplating its wonderful swiftness and force. Above the Platte, the Missouri) though not lea& swift in current, is rendered more easy of navi- gation by the large sand bars, and clear banks, which admit of towing : but from the scarcity of wood of a proper kind, it is necessary to lay in a sufiicient slock of oars and poles. To the faUst two thousand miles further, it preserves the same charac- ter; the navigation however becomes less dangerous, or difficult, excepting from the shoals, which in low water are abundant. Above th falls or cataracts^ there is a clear fine river five hun- f About tventjr mifcs up, eacft river mskcH a sudden torn— the Mlff- souri 8. W. and the Mississippi N. £. but, I dr> not know upon what ground it is asserted, that after having descended either rirer fbr aeteral diiysy the voyager will find lums«4f within a days march of the other. 46 VIEWS OF LOmSUNA. dred miles to the three forkS) affording better navigation than any part of the Missouri^ hlthough the ciiannel is generally nar- row and sometimes confined between lofty mountains. The three forks are all fine rivers^ and receive a great number of smaller Streams. In ascending the Missouri, sails are of more impor- tance than on any of the wiestern rivers. The openness of the country gives scope to the winds, which in the spring and sum- nier usually blow from the S. E. and suit the general course of the river : I frequently ascended, notwithstanding the swiftness of the current, from thirty to forty miles per day for three or four days in succession. The Missouri is remarkable for its large and smaller bends* The greater we have already seen from the general cr . ae of the river; it would therefore not be surprising that it siiould after- wards turn south and take the course of the Mississippi. The small bends are where the river pursues a zig-zag course fot forty or fifty miles, constantly returning upon its steps. The Missouri receives all its principal rivers from the S W. side. The extent of country to be drained on the N. E. side is to the other, as the east side of the Mississippi is to the western. This is owing to the vicinity of the Mississippi, and th^ N. W. chain of lukes. The distance from the Mandan villages to the British establishment on the Red river of Winipec, is but a few days journey. The floods of this river usually begin early in March^ and there is a continued succession of them until the last of July ; the river subsiding and again rising as the different rivers bring down their annual tributes. It so happens, that seldom more than two great rivers are high at the same period. Many of these floods are never fell ?n the Mississippi. But the great rise of the Missouri itself, from the melting of the snows, takes place, about the tenth of June, and begins to subside about the latter end of July. In some of the northern branches, the ice does not break up until late in the season : about one thousand miles up the Misr souri, I saw a la.'«^e cake of ice floating in the river on the last of May. There is little variation in the width of this river from its mouth to the cataracts. In some places it spreads consider^blx, RnrERS & LAKES—BOOK I. «l and in these) sandbars fanpede the navigation in low water : at these Umes the riTet' is reduced in places to less than a fourth of its usual breadth* between sand-bars wiiich advance into it| and a high bank. But when the channel is full, the river even at the Maadans, appeared to me not less broad or majestic, tiiail does the Mississippi at New Orleans. The cataracts of the Missouri, from every description, are, next to those of Niagara, the most stupendous in the world. The descent, in the distance of eighteen miles, according to the esti- mation of Lewis and Clark, is 362 feet 9 inches. The first great pitch 98 feet — • second ^ third — fourth 19 — 47 — 8 inches S6 — besides a number of smaller ones. The width ok' the riveris ai)out three hundreci and fifty yards. The whole extent of navigation of this river which has no other cataract or considerable impediment, from the highest point on Jefferson river, the largest of the three forks, to its en- trance into the Mississippi, is three thousand and ninety-six miles ; no other tributary stream in the world possesses such a navigation. ARKANSAS. The Arkansas, next to the Missouri, is the most consid.* erable tributary of the Mississippi. In length it is nearly two thousand five hundred miles, and navigable at proper seasons nearly the whole distance. In many places its channel is broad and shallow, at least above the rapids, so as to render na- vigation almost; impracticable. Until eight or nine hundred miles from its 'jaouth, it receives no considerable streams, owing to the vicinity of the waters of the Missouri, of the £Lansas, 8cc.. on the one side, and those of Red river on the other. The chief rivers which fall into it, are the Verdigris, the Negracka, Cana- dian river, Grand river, Sec. Several are remarkable for being stron(|;ly impregnated with salt} the Arkansas itself, at Qtertcnn seasons is said to be brackish . M yrcWS 01 LOUISIANA. The lands on thit river for six or eight hundred miles up, are desci'ibed as very fine and capable of uffording setUementSi though principally untirabered. For a long distance up, tko flat lands on either side are intersected with nmnerous bayouX.^-— There is a remarkable cmnmunication between the Arkansas and White river, by a chaiuiel or bayou connecting the two ri<* vers with a currenli setting alternately into the ooe or the other, as the flood in either happens to predominate. BED RIVER Takes its source in the CordiUcras> at no great distance north of Sta. F6 In length it is about the same with the Arkan- sas. It is navigable six or eight hundred miles, with scarcely any obstruction. There is at that point a curious raft, formed of logs OQd earth, which entirely covers its channel i trees are growing upon it, and one might pass over without perceiving the river. Red river runs in a valley on an average fifteen miles wide* for at least eight hundi*ed miles, which is every where intersected with bayoux, and large lakes. The navigation meets with the first impediment one hundred and fifty miles up. The falls or rapids are about two miles in length, the breadth of the river two hundred and fifty yards. They are occasioned by a soft rock of free stone : the greatest pitch in low water, not being more than eight or nine inches. Thb viver might with much more jus- tice than the Mississippi, be called the American Nile. A country lies on its borders more extensive than Egypt, and of a soil the richest perhaps in the world. Its waters, which are not potable, arc very red, impregnated with some mineral. The river is remark- ably narrow; it seldom spreads to the width of two hundred and fifty yards, and is more generally contracted to one hundi'ed ; it is also exceedingly crooked. The annual swellj which is Caiiy in the spring of the year, raises the water fifty or sixty feet, when it flows with great rapidity : but during the summer and sbasonr of low water, it is sunk within deep and ragged clay banks, of an imsightly appearance, and has not more than eight or ten feet Of water. The ouMets from this river ai-e more numerous t!hah even from the Mississippi, and joined by streams which flow iYo:n the uplands, or pine woods. The course of the river is con- AIVERS 8c LAKEI^BOOK t. 4l Btantly lUbject to change} many of the bayoux which tt t>reBent appear inconaiderable) it no diatant period constituted the bed ot the principal river. The following are amongst the moat considerable tributariei of tho Mississippi and Missouri, and may be noticed in thit place. K. toM CORBSAtJXy The westehi branch of the Miasissippi, and affording the best communication with Red river of Winipec This river is as« cended one hundred and eighty miles to the Leaf river, which entersfrom the N. W. s the Leaf river is again ascended the samo distance; there is then a portage of one half mile to the Otter Tail lake, the principal source of Red river. The other branch bf the riviere des Corbeaux, bears S. W. and approaches th6 St. Peters^ feT. riLTBAfl iKnters i\xt Mississippi about forty miles below the fidls of St. Anthony. It is a fine stream, and maybe navigated to its source^ a thousand miles ; the current is gentle, and in places scarce- ly perceptible ; in the spring and summer it is covered with wild fowl, which collect here for the purpose of breeding, and I iBnd abundant nourishment in the wild rice which g^ows in tho river and neighbouring lakes. Its principal branches are, Blue I Earth rivef. Red Wood river, and Yellow Wood river. BBS MOIKtil. i^ext to the St. teeters, it is the largest of tbie rivefs whicfi I the Mississipi^ receives from the ureat, above the confluence j With the Missouri. It enters two hundred and fifty miles from I their junction^ and is navig^ible without a fall or scarcely an inter- ruptioni to the Pelican lak^;, where it rises, and which is not far from the Sioux river of the Missouri, a distance of about eight [hundred miles, ^lackoou river, the principal branch enters on th^ B. W. side, and is navigable several hundred miles. There are I several others of some magnitude, particularly the Red Cedar I river. VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. Ri GRAND RIVBR, Enters tlic Missouri on the N. C side, about 350 miles up ; a fine river, navigable six hundred miles ; general course not dis- tant from the Missouri. Formerly, when the traders bound for the Mahas, (800 miles up the Missouri) were infested by the Kansas Indians, they ascended this river, and then crossed to the Missouri. RAirsAs, Rises in the vast plains between the Arkansas and the Platte. It is one of the finest rivers of the Missouri, though inferior to several of them in cittent. The principal branches are the Smoky Hill Fork, Grand Saline, Solomon's Fork, and the Republican Fork. It enters the Missouri 300 miles up. I have conversed tvith hunters who had ascended it. without meeting any considc- ruble obstacles, more than three hundred leagues. It receives a great number of large streams, and is by no means well known. The adjacent country is generally prairie, and the cliffs on the river, are frequently solid rucks of gypsum. . THE FLATT&, Is the longest and largest of the rivers which discharge themselves into the Missouri, being little short of two thousand miles, and yet can hardly be reckoned a navigable stream. The channel is extremely wide and abounds with ever varying quick* sands. Several fine navigable rivers, howcvei*, discharge them- selves into it; the ElkHorn, and the Wolf river, and the Padon* cas Fork. _ .. THE YELLOW STOrNB (or RQCHB JAUITeO ; Has considerable resemblance to the Missouri in extent and difficulty ji navigation, and is tl.e most considerable of those rivers which discharge themselves^into it. The Missouri, un- dergoes a perceptible change after the junction. In seasons of high water it is more properly a torrent ; the descriptions of its rapidity are almost incredible. It enters the Missouri 1 880 miles up. The principal branches are; Big Homj Tongue river, and Clark's river. RIVERS k LAKES— DOOK I. 54 WniTB B. — CUIENWE B.— R. A. ^AqUB— SIQUX »• ^ ,. Might be reckoned the largest rivers any where else. The Little Missouri, (90 leagues above the Mandan villages) is re- markable for the quantity of mud which it carries (lown« At the Afaria rivers a large stream which enters the Missouri two thousand miles up, the muddiness of the Missouri iu some mea- sure ceases. There are several considerable rivers, between the Missouri and the N. western takes. Red river is the princifNjil ; the Assine- boin is its principal branch. The Mouse river, oi* Saskashawin, Svhich flows into the Assineboin, is remarkable for taking its rise from the very bonk of the Missouri > The following, is a table of the navigable rivers of Louisiana ; it is necessarily incomplete, but from it sonte rude conjecture can be formed as to the immense extent of navigation which it possesses. |i TABLB OF NAVIGABLE RIVERS IN LOUISIANA-— EXTENT OW NAVIGATION. Principal Ji. | Tributarie» | J^Tavi. | .Renttirki. MI!i6I88IPPX. Sang Sue . . Pike R. . . . det Cvrbeaux St. Peter* . . Turkey R. . Catfiah R. . del Moine» . Wayaconda laiwione . . SaltR. . . BufTaloe . . Cuivre ... Mittiuri . . Maramek.t . St. PranciM White R. , . Arkantaa ... Red B, . ' •' . lois ooBBKA vs. Leaf 8. [ST. FXTERS ... 7)ES MOIirXS... •iS. ♦'■ . Blue Earth R. Red Wood R. Yellow Wood R Rackoon R. . . Red Cedar R. 0,000 80 120 300 l.OOOl^rhich 800 150 3,096 350 800 1,100 2,000 2,500 By some considered the source of the Miss, heads in Leech liJce, and is larger than the branch rises in Red Cedar lidke; considered the source of the a^ bove mentioned river. About 250 miles ^bove the mouth of the Missouri, not much known. .■>! '■ 15,296| . , .'.-lilft'tii 180 There is a poHsge of one mile from the hi ;td of this river to the Otter Tail lakei, the principal ■ source of Red River of Winipeo. tIBWS OF |/>UI8UNA. MJwar*Mr'n» win4.Brn4m Ciinnon-ball R. Knife R. 4 . * little MteeouH Goeee K' • • i White cMrlhil. YtikmSHn* . Porcupine R. IJ-y R. . . . BiffDryR. . Muicle Shell R. Big Home Mfanolei . Fancv R. . Dear borne Maria . . . m ^.w.siai Id. id Id. N. B. aid* N. £. side , 8. W. aide N.B.aide N. £. aide 8. W. upwards of 8,000 viUea in lanifth, but affords little or no 900 narigaticm. 900 N. B. A pWBt of repdeiTous for the traders* and the Yankton band of Sioux. 8 W. A handsome river, but not navigable ai^ great distance. m ». W. A large toe river i its branches not knowui SOO yards < • Rapid John . Red River . Verdigris . Nagraca . . Canadian R. Grand R . . Qraod Saline Strong Saline Black M. . . O. OlAOB. KANSAS... rtATTB. Nangira Grand R. The Pork Uook's R Vermillion R. Smokcyhill F. Grand Saline Soloman's Fork Rcpttldican do. RlK>horn Wolf R. Padoneas •tAOK ji. (w ) Spring R. Current eleven AbAOK a. (m ) Washita Riviere auBonif Tensa Catahoula Little River aao Rfva«.„.,LitUe Missouri ofWinipeo Asiinrboln Saskas Uawin YaCRBii*»H« SABitra ChaffklUya.. JSTkivi. IE vmarn 150 150 This river is not perfectly 50 known. 80 400 150 100 300 90U 150 aoo 50 This river is foraiod by the junction of the Tcnsa, Washita and Little river—There are nu< merous navigable bayoux and ■treams from Red river, but no considerable branches except the one just mentioned. - These rivers are mvigable fVoml5G to 300 miles. iOO (SOU 1.000 400 Heads in a lake. .4* 50 Rises in a lake, and is naviga- bit from the very source. This is s long river which flows 15Ubctween the Mississippi andtbe 50^Washita, and sidd to communi* lOOcate with the St. Francis, by means of a lake, with which tho waters of that riv'>r are connected. 150 400 300 Called a bayott, but more pro> pcrly a river. A continuation of Red river. I have hot attempted to enumerate the different navigable bayous and Itkes, but these are very numerous : and doulalRSs mnny rivers equal in aise to the Schuylkill, have not been placed in this table, the country lieing still but imperfectly explored. H VIEWS OP LpUISUXii^ CHAPTER V. KATVRAL OR INDIGENOUS PRODUCTIONS'— AMrMAI) VXGXTA- BLE) AND MINERAL. NOT being a naturalist) I shall only attempt to give some idea of the extensive field which lies open to the learned. Were I to attempt, upon a slender knowledge, to give a scientific ac- count, I might lead the reader into error. I am informed that the western side of the Mississippi, to the eye of the naturalist, has a character altogether different from any part of the United States, and that except New Holland, the world does not afford a more interesdng field. Mr. Bradbury* has made an extensive collection of speci- mens, and some very interesting discoveries. The indefatigable research of this gentleman, savi that heart-engaged enthusiasm^ which the student of the grer": K^k of nature, has ever been ob- served to possess, promise a valuable acquisition to pleasurable and useful knowledge. The discoveries of Lewis and Clark* even in this department, are said to be very important; but, froip the expedition necessary in the movements of the exploring par- ties, and the necessity of a continual watchj for their own safety, they could not posses the opportunity and leisure) netessary for the examination of objects more minute. The forest trees, and plants and animals, described by Mr. Jefferson, and other writerS| are found in some part or other of this territory ; but there is also a great Variety, peculiar to itself. The subject of its mineralogy remains untouched- Mr. Brad- bury has discovered nearly one hundred flud fi% non-descrifit plants ; near twenty of which, cannot be assigned to any known gienemy and may therefore be considered as forming new ones. • Aboat the time of writing the following view of the natural prth duetiont, &e. I became acqutiinted with Mr. Bradbury, and submitted tb i sketch to him, he was good enough to make some corrections,, and U annex teveral interesting notes. Mr. Bradbury is a naturalist of emi* nence, a fellow of the Linnean Society, and engaged to come to this (sountry to pursue his researches. PRODUCTIOKS, bc^-BOOK I ^ His discOvertes with respect to the animated part of the creation, and the subterraneous riches of the country, are not less impor* tant. . - AMIMALS. , Agreeably to what I have already said, I shall not atten^pt to give any catalogue of animals, plants, &c. but merely notice those most remarkable. The Grizzly J9rar— -First claims our attention. This animal, is the monarch of the country which he inhabits. The African lioni or the tyger of Bengal* are not mwe terrible or fierce. He is the enemy of man ; and literally thirsts for human blood. So far fro^ shunning, he seldom fieuls to attack ; and even to hunt him.* The Indians make war upon these ferocious monsters, with the same ceremonies, as they do upon a tribe of their own species : and in the recitsJ of their victories, the death of one of them, gives th« warrior greater renown than the scalp of a human eeemy. The Grizzly bear, is a non-deacrifiti and much the largest o2 the species. He is three times the size of a common brown bear, and six times that of an European one. One of them, kill- ed by Lewis and Clark, near the Porcupine river, about two thousand miles up the Missouri, measured as follows : Round the head 3 feet 5 inches Round the neck 3 feet 1 1 inches Length 8 feet 7^- inches Round the fore-leg 1 foot 1 1 inches Talons—in length 4^ inches Mr. Manuel Lisa, the first who ascended to this country Sor tUe purpose of trade, and who spent nine months in it, informed me that they sometimes exceed 1,200 lbs. in weight, and that oiie full grown, will commonly weigh eight or nine hundred. H« possesses an amazing strength, and attacks without hesitation and tears to pieces the largest buffaloe. The color, is usually such as the name indicates, though there are varieties, from black to silvery whiteness. The skins are highly valued for muffs and tippets ; and will bring from twenty to fifiy dollars each. * I am credibly informed that he has been known to puriue (hte t|;^ck of a hunter an hour after his having^ passed. m VtEWfi OP LOmSIAlfA*^' r i This bear is not vsualfy seen lower than the Mandan villa-' ges. In the vicinity of the Roche Jaune, and of Little Missouri* they are said to be most numerous. They do not wander much in the prairies, but arc usually found in points of wood, in the neighbourhood of large streams. The Indians hrrdly ever ven- ture into the fringe of wood, which borders the rivers, in that great extent of open country, without first setting up a toud and cOiitinued shout, in order that the bears, if there be any< may either come forth to attack them, or retire, if they happen not to be so disposed. In shape, he differs' from the common bear In being propor-' tionably more long and lank. He does not climb trees, a cireum' stance which has enabled hunters with whom I am acquainted^ to make their escape. The Indians complain that some of their best warriors, have fallen victims to this ffliimal. Lewis and Clark's men, on several occasions, narrowly csraped from theit attacks. The Grizzly bear is sufficient to disprove, the idle the- ories of Buffbn or Raynal, as to the impotency of the kew WORLD in the production of animals. Antelofie^ was thought to be a non*descript species of deer, it is a beautiful little animal, and is found on the Missouri abov6 the Platte. The antelope goes in flocks of several hundreds; the Indians frequently take them, by driving them into the water and attacking thepi with clubs. Groaae Comtf so called from the large size of the horns, some of them being two feet in length, and four or five inches in diameter; they are extremely shy, and climb without difficult ty to the pinnacle of the highest mount£un,.and sport upon the giddy verge of precipices. They have been called also mountain sheefij but have little resemblance to sheep, except in the head, horns, and feet. On the rump, they arc white, but every where else of a dun color. In size they exceed the deer, and have a fine soft hair: the horns of tlie male are larger than those of the female. This animal is thought to be the Jffalia, The Buffaloe^ may be said to have retired north of the Illinoiit) .and west of the Mississippi. The plains of Indiana and Illinois) were once his places of favorite .resort, and he loved to frequent the banks of the beautiful Ohio ; but encroaching settlements^ )pRb&t7ciitoks, ^c— Bdbk i. 5jr have driven him away. His prdper country appeal to be the plains of the Missburi; those of Indiana and Illinois, are kninia- tures of thes6. Here the buffaloe is found in imttiense herds; frequently cbVeHng the plain as &r as the eye tah teath. Some of these herds, haVe been estimated at fifty thousand heads. In the dry season, they are found in the neighbourhood of the great rivers, but there are also regitlar migrations of thtm fiiom north to south, When they are seen passing the Missouri, for several days in succession, like the mansh of Xerkes' ahny. The Wool* of thib buffatote has a peculiar fineness, even surpassing that df the meiinb. I have seeta gloves made of it, little inferior to silk. But for the difficulty Of separating the haii^ it might become a very important article of commerce. Should any mieans be discovered of effecting this, or should it be found) that at certain seasbns, there is less of this mixture, the buffaloe wool must become of prime importahce ih manufoctures. JSik and Deei", ate foUnd in great numbera in this territory: In the neighbourhood of the settlements deer are very abun* dant; the poor animals enjoy tome respite firom their cruel per- secutors, on account of the low state of die peltry trade, and for some time past have beeh observed i& increase. Two va- rieties of deer are discovered high Up on- the Missouri. The black tailed, or mule deer ; remarkable fof Very long ears, and tails almost without hidr, except at the tod vriiere there is a small tuft of a black cofor. The other kind is disdnguished by very small horns, and a tail of unusual length^— «ighteen or twen- ty inches^ -^ • There is a spedies of W6?f different from the wolverin, and a Curious one of the fox. The braireau or badger, is found on the Mississippi and dn the Missouri. The changeable hare flejfiut variabiliaj a beautiful animal^ gray in summer, and white in win-" ter is seen in this country. * It is cuH6as to o\iietv6t that in the instrUctiott t6 Ibdrvllle l>y th<> kin^ of France, iwo things were considered of the first importance, the pearl Jiaherji, and the buffaloe wooL Charlevoix obserTCs, that he is not surprised that the first should not have been attended to, but he thinks it strati|fe that the second should be neglected even to his tittt. H ^3 r VIEWS OF W>M»SU^^'J y . The i^rqirie sLQg^^r Sgiiiftelf i? ^ gvo^ curioutjr. It lives in ^qir- raw&t ox 9fi they afc QonnnKwLy ca}l«d rau'^s^ ^94 ii abqiH a Uilrd larger tliao (l^e fox squirvel. XUe he^d i^ thi<:K ^nd clu^iay, it has fergo jaw«» ^viU l^rge cy^s» tnit tbc eiM?:is not pron\in?nwcQfl»i8it- iog of U' ^^e infliir? tl^uvtlflie oiifi<:^,, Tk'^ Ndy ^ lQng,and l^gs »hort» tlie t41( n^t mvi^^U iiMrffcr t|iAQ th«i| of «k common ground a^quir- ;r^l» and v^ry de|j««te ; th« j^ i^ort iM>d ^ek, of a light grey, cHceptiog on r,he b^)ly» vherc it is white. It ia without doubt a species of scjuirrei) ^UoM^h ijt hii» a cloven Up ii^e. thQ jrabhit. It mi\k,es a pois^ very similar to %\v4t, of (ho g^round atj^uirreU though n^u^lji louder; and vc&embling in a slight degree tl>£! harking oS ^ vepy sm^lL do^> Whe;;i at S(pnie diatanct; front \{,^ ln/oht whieh,: l^owcver, se^ojpQ, hmpf^nat it niay he easUy caughti but is exceed- iugly fieifce in the first iastauc^i yet in a few days, it becomea p,e?fectly.doinaesticaied,iii^ is pleased vrit^.bjeing careaaed. It sel- dom drinka; k, feeds, on tiie gr^ss which grow^ around its holO) aikd r9m^ns ^orpid, d^U'lng winter. The^e towns are to he found in the lai'ge prairie* uhptff. thi^cc hundred, n^ilcs west of the Mis' ^Stsippi) and ifxe fre(|uenVly nio^e than a inil^in length. The si- tuatipn c^ioAen, is gene^a^ dry, Ueingon the slqpe pf a bill, and at a disl^nce frt^n any w^ter cou^vsj^ When a person ^pprosve.hes, he is assailed by t^, %rhpl,e vU.]^e, with 9 M^> wl^h o^ I hstvc menuoned,^be«ira a re^emb^uce lothe barking cf sn^all 4og$- The aiuinals are seen -behind sm^^l luUp^^s al; the side of their holes : on a^pro^hing,wijthij;^^^w yavd^of one of these,, theinihabir tiViit in^t^nx^ retreats, to. Ipis, subte^anequa apartments. The wolves have declared war against these curious people^ and fre- quently coninnt gve^ h^voc, in thpw little repuhlics* Th^ Qofihevy* is supposed to be a non>^scr^ ; it Ijves un^ dev ground, in the prinvies, and vi i^sq found e^i^tof the Missis^ sippi. It bears con;»iderabl,Q resemblaoco tp the inoI,e, but is twice the size of that aninial. It has at eaph j,aw, a kipid of bag, or purse, about one inch and a half in length, for the purpose of Q^nveying Coodj of for earrying th^ dirt jii^Jj f|f i^s hole. ^The * Thi» name Is also given to a species of terra{HiT. y^fbte by Mr. BrQdbyry — If the Gopher is not the animal, described in the Systema Nutur.x, as mus burstrius, by Linnaeus, it is yet undc- scrihed. PR6t)UCTlC^/8tc .-.BiOOk I. ^19 q^iahtity *f earth tWtJti^ up, is ernohhmis ;< frtquentl jr fo'rttiii^fe ' Thb AUig^itlr^ te i^ W«n kti^^h to rtquire Any thih^ to be flfcW-of itfW. His is iWt cdWskWJred a ibrocion ^ i* dan'g«rdU8 »ni- ittAI by tlA tHhobitaWi*. l*litf htiihbCfs of this animal have Je4- -^tned of'la^yebt^tV^the destrlictibn made by the inhabitants, 'Who valtfe^elv skins. '^ '*^^ ;.....,.» the Cttmeikn^\^ y€ri'i^MK\ 'iairia I iirii infbrttted thail Si the wouthewi partii both thfc tlcor^ion and the tammtila exist'.' Of the featheiHsd tiflbeij somethir g may also be sSiid. Th'*i*e is a beautiful bi^d catted the pt^i^ie hen^ Vfhich 1 think is hot dtf- iicfibed. In wihter'it is founti in'laf^ 0oclc«, tomes iftto barn- yards, and frequently alig;ht< oft the htjrraesx)^ thfc villkgfei;i. 'ft is sdttievrhat larger than the pheasantbfit^e United Sthte^, {ittrao umbHlUa,) Whirti i^rtiftSiiWjtei sort^Mrhatirt CbWl-, btfllh 8Hk^(5 is muth like thie ^iifb^a h6n'; and diffei^fhjttl the ()h6a^lit ih' b^- in^ easily dothestie^ea. Th6 fl6^ ib dlf, iilatfc, ^d by ilo ml^atis a{*t^«iible. Thcfe i^abbtf bh tht Misstjurt,t«^hifch^)t{il'i ti stfbrife res^mbldhce t6 the )3hekkdnt, biit, li hearly as 1:^ as d'ttiHc(iV hen ; it is d^serit^eH &S belti^ ii fine biVtl. 1 have Siseii b spedii^tii of thfe Columbia p^htldj^, of thb tMM beautitlil pit)ift%e. f life m^gpiii is found in abUtidatibe bii the Mi^^buri. Ih the settlements, and ^r a considferabte distiince up mo. Missouri, turkies Stalk through the «<^obds, in nutnerbbS flbcks', but are rarely met \«rUh iHrhf^re the bpcn cwiritry totiimisnc^^. Quails, teftao mttijlpndictt) are fbubd every Where. IH the tall of the year atl the ItikfeS Are llt^rdlly covered with Wild fc^Wf; duclts, geese, swaiis, drahes, and a Variety tjf" dthers. '^ VEGETABLE FROOUCf IONS. K^' I have already otjservetl that lai extensive field lies open to the botanist. There are even- Some considerable forest trees, yet undescribed : there is particularly one very hesMtiU^ly^oUjaune, or yellow wood: by some called the mock orange. In siaei it equals that of the largest peach tree, and the leaves^ though longer, are pretty nearly similar. The trunk is short, the limbs branching out low down. The fruit has some resenibWnoc to tlic la VTGWS OF L0VI8IANA. . orange, but more spherical, and covered with tubercles;* the cck lor, when at maturitj^, is a pale yeUpw. fhh fruit, has be^ deemed poisonous, bm perhap* without reason : in its green stat^i i( gives forth when qut, agrrat quaptitxof.mjilky flui^f whiQh poasetses a corrosive nature, l^lapikening the jkpife, with whi^h it ^s cut, Ukethe pineapple, 1% v/oul,d certainly be in gair- dens a highly ornamental tresj Mr. Choteaq, qf^tt Louis, h^s planted one in his garden, which ti>nves well. The \ne is found on. the Qsage, Ark,an9as, ^d other places west of the Missi^- fipi>Mt it is said) in low, pioist and s^jrampy ground. The wood is reniarkahly heavy, n^carcely yielding to ligniiitn vitse, and of a beautiful yelloW' It might be of use in dye% qr for inlaying. The Indira u«^ of it fipir war clt^ ^d fpr bows. Thej^e is a grape on the Missoqri, found in the pruries* whlf^h i^ip^ns in %\ke tnontb of Ju^e,cui far north a^s latitude 40", It is very ^vreet and pleasant A hundrels of purple clustery of grapes, iqiparting their rich iiues to the gliding wave. Not^ithi aiding the ^gqre the vines of thip country have pude in description, they are very little dif- ferei^t from thqse of the Vnited States. Fonnerly a wretched 9ort of WfP!? was imade of ^he rpinter grafie, but Which is at pre? sent tdmpst |ieglecte4' These vintages were never considered of niuch importance.' The wine was made by bruising tho grapes in a {arge tub; a heftyy stone v^as then placed on them^ to press out the juice, which flowed through an opcmng at the bo^om into a vessel prepared for its reception.| * See the voyage of Hunter and Ejunbar up the Wabash. 1 1 have seen om near KatcfiCo^es» on the Red river. t J^ote fjf Mr. Bra^wry. On the Ohio and on the Mississippi, there lure two kinds of gftap^s, not found ih'the United States; vitit astivalit and vitis riparia ; the last is a very fln« grape. There are also two spe- cies on the Missouri, the one described; and a white grape, said to be ver^ line, The change which ^ ^e Ameiicao^ vineS| undergo from cui* , pRomrcncMs, &&— book i. 61 Amongst tb^ forest trees of this country, the eediir, (juni- peruii virginianai) thexOtton wood, (populus anguliacus,) and the peccanne, ( juglans olivse formus) deserve particular atten« tion. The cedars grows in gteat abundance and perfection. There are fipe grovesi on the Maramekf St. Francis, Missouri* and on the Missi ^sippi. Some very large islands in the Mbsou- ri are covered with this tree. The houses in the villages are gt« nerally built of this wood, which is also used for their enclo- sures. The cotton wood (so called from a down which it casts off in the spring, with which the air is filled like.fleeces of snow) does not appear to have attracted as much attention as it de> serves. It is invariably found on the river bottoms of the Mis- sissippi, and Missouri, and after the willow, is the first tree which springs up on alluvion soils. The More ancient islands of the rivers >if est of the Mississippi, at well as on that river, are covered with this tree ; it adds much to the beauty of the scenery, from its lofty and uniform appearance, and the deep green of its foliage contrasted ivith the light color of the river. The growth of this tree is e:ictremely rapid ; it shoots up in the course of a few years, into a noble column, several feet in dia- meter, and forty or fifty in height, before it becomes lost in branches. It permits no part lately gained from the river to re- mun long without timber; and will afford wood to the settlers of adjacent prairie, which could not otherwise be settled^ as it answers extremely well for rails and fuel. The peccanne,* is found on the low grounds, where it grows to most perfection; it is a large tree resembling somewhat the hickory, but has a more delicate leaf, its branches are more numerous and spread-, ing, and it is in every respect a more beautiful tree. There were formerly beautiful groves of it in the American bottom, (Illinois) but they have been nearly destroyed in order to procure the nuts. ' The sugar tree Cacer aaccharinua) is found in the pre- sent limits of the settlements, but not far to the west, or to the ture, is truly surprising ; kind and bounteous nature, seems to have fur- nished vines' itaited to every climate and soil ; so that no part of the hU' man race should be denied tiiis general blessing. • It is one of the principal ornamental trees of the plantations cm the l^werpsrts of the Mississippi. ^ 4i VIEWS OF L0UI81AVA. south. The cy;>reB8t magnolki) ever (^reen oakf fend « number of other trees, common in the state of LouiBkno, have been am> lily described hy Barton and Michaud. Amongst the wild fruits of Louisiana, the plum has been celebtated. They ur* in great abundance.* Several species de- iBrve to be transpi nted to our (gardens ; the yellow plum is dell* clout. Mulberries are very abundant, both Oh the Mississippi, /^ and a considerable distance up the Missouri. The woods and prairies are every where overrun with ctrawberry vines; the fruit is exce.Hem. Le Haut Mi8»oun^(\.Vit upper MIHBourl) t^e name given it by the French traders) surpasses the other parts of the territory, in the variety of wild fVuits; plums, cherr.ds, currants at«d a great variety of berries. '' Of flowers, and herbaceous plants, pecuHsit' to this country,! there exist a great variety, but want of botanical skill, and the plan ««tsumcd for thr.se cursory views, prevent me from entering into detail. White clover, grows wild in many parts of the coun- try. In the upper Missouri, the plains are filled with hyssop \ near the.mountams there is a plant resembling flax.t Hunters * Note by Mr. Bradburif. Amonglit the species of plUms in Lou* isiana, and particularly at some distance up the MisBouri. there is none more intere&ting thiui the prairie plum» ("prunm chickaiaj which lit- erally en vers tracts of ground, of many acres in extent, and produces fruit 80 abundantly, as to bend down to the earth with its weight. • f The natural consequence of the difference of habit, arising from the prairies, and flint knobs, which of course give birth to distinct tribei in the vegetable kingdom ; many of which, could not exist in the um- brageous woods of the eastern states. Bradbury. ^ From the description of this plant, it seems probable, that it is a i)ew species of linum / and although perennial, differs from linumperenne. The number of plants^ made use of by the aborigines, for medical purposes, is much greater than might be supposed, by those unacquaint- ed with the skill, in the healing art, of these untaught children of na- ture. But not having, as yet, had an opportunity of examining the con- tents of their medicine bags, I am not prepared to give a scientific ac- count, nor of the plant with wfiich they produce the beautiful dye, in their ornaments ; it is, however, a golium, and I think a new speoiee- Bradbury. [This was written before Mr. Bradbury ascended the Missouri.] ♦ PR0DUCTI0N8, Ice— BOOR I. 6S tfll of some curious plants od on th'; Arkansas, amongst vhich aru the common sun-flower, the bean, unci the sunbtin, which grow there in tkcur natural state. There is no reosor. to thin': this impei>b«ble, for tUieac plants are known to be indigenous. IflNKRALS. If we denominate parts of the United States, bf their pr^- (lomtnating characters, and qualities; this territory may be call- ed the country of minerals. A small quantity of gold, is said to have been foimd on the St Francis, by an inhabitant of St Genevieve ; it is probable, that some of the precious metals may be found, and it is certain that nearly all the useful ones exist in great abundance. A story is related of a wonderful mass of filatina^ on the Black river ; this is not sufRcicntly attested, to merit much attention.*—^ It is the prevuling ofMnion, that there, is silver, and numerous stories are related respecting it. A humlred places, where there is said to be silver ore, are indicates Crom the information of In- dians and hunters; on the Missouri, Arkansas, and on the wa- ters of White river. C^ogf aphers have for a long time, agreed in placing a gold mine om the Arkansas ; and, considering the precision wi^ wbich it is marked on the map, it is surprising to me that some of our enterprising Ameneans do not avail themselves of it. Many accounts have been given of silver mines on the Red river, above the Cado ns^tion. Du Pratz as- * The story i^ related by Indlus j it has been supposed to be platina^ I from their descripiloB, but it is most likely somA other isetal^ as platina is only found in very small pieces. The weight qf the raass^ being diSK I proportioned to Its size> causes a curious deception to the Indians, who^ in consec^uence, call it a moncton or spirit. A story similar to this, was I told me by an Ankara chief, of a mass which he has frequently seen in a prairie near the Black mountains. Another mass has actually been brought down Red river, by some hunters ; it is probably native iron. This wealth in precious metals, is certainly flattering; bat the expenVey the idea, list, but mere- lese minerals tory, there are le tract which part of the country, trat^ersed by this river, or its waters, was toI- canic ; this still remains uncertain.* There ia no doubt but that Tumty of these appearances arise from the burning of coal banks. Near the Maiidans, there are places m which smoke is emitted from the high banks of the river, and putting down a stick Into the fissure, fire is instantly communicated. I think it probable, that & ck>se examination of the country, will discover traces of extinguished volcanoes. Mr. Lisa, informed me, that he had been told by Indians, and some of his hunters, that about sixty miles from his fort, on the Roche Jaune, at the entrance of a riv- er, there is a mountain which emits flames. This is about two hundred miles from the mouth of the Roche Jaune. In this part of the country, I am we?l informed that great quantities of sulphur can be procured ; it is found not only in caves, but can be scraped off the prairies in the manner of the salt. I have spoken of the minerals which are found in the great- est quantides, I shall now mention such, as are more thinly dis- persed through the territory. Copper, is certainly found on the Mississippi, between la riviere des Moines and the Ouisconsing ; and several other places in the territory are mentioned. There is iron ore on the St. Francis^ on the Maramek, on the Osag^, and in great quantities throughout the White river country. On the St. Francis there nte said to be huge masses like rocks. Several gentlemen who have examined specimens from these different places, do not think fig^vorably of the ore, but I believe no proper trial of it, has yet been made. There doubtless exists a variety of minerals, which a better acquaintance with the country will discover: it has not been at- tenUvely examined by any skilful mineralogist. Mr. Bradbuiy, on a visit to the mine 6. Burton, informed me that he found those working at the mines, throwing away as useless, the blende ore of Zinc. The late Dr. Elliot of St. Genevieve,! informed me • A thorough examination of the causea of the late earthquake j might perhaps throw li jht on this aubject The teat of thia convulsion [ may be far to the weit, t Porroerly of Connecticut. I cannot refrain from seiicing this oppor- I tunity of paying a tribute to the memory of that excellent man. J*oiieiff^ VIEWS OF LOUKIANA. /•> that an Indian had once brought him ai^cimen of anUniQBy« ))ut that he could not be prevailed upon by any offera to shew the place where it was procured : believing^ probablyt from the reward offered him, that it must be something of great value. CoaU seems to be a fossil common to every part of the valley of the Mississippi, the space between the range of mountains towards the Atlantic, and that towards the Pacific. U is foun<| in every part of this territory. On the east side of the Missis- sippi, in the bluffs of the American Bottom, a tree tal^Bg fire some years ago, communicsted it by one of its roots to the coali which continued to bum, until the fire was at length smothered \fj the falling in of a large mass of the incumboit eartl^. The appearance of fire, is still visible for several rods around. About two miles further up the bluffs, a fine coal bui^ has he^n open- ed} the vein as thick as any of those near Pittsburgh. Salt-petre has been made on the Gasconade, and there is no doubt, but that great abundance may be had throughout this country, which reposes on limestcme, and is consequently ca<« vemous. In caves, from the M^souri to the St. Francis, there are mmiense quantities of a pure ules;, adhering like solid rock; it ia as white as refined sugar, and so much tike its that the different is not discernible to the eye. I hav? seen a de- ception practised on a stranger, by giving him a lump and pass* ing it for sugar. It crumbles with the pressure of the fingers : in the mfUiM^cture of glass, it may undoubtedly be of u«e. A beau- tiful terpentine* of a red color, ia fo\|nd about three hundred miles west of the Mississippi, near the heads of la riviere des Moines and the ^t. Peters, and of which the Indians make their pipes. It is soft and easily cut, into any shape in the first instance} but soon assumes the hardness of stonr A curious circum- stance is cufinected with this and noUcid by several writers. The Indians of different tribes, no matter how inveterate or fierce their animosities^ incet here^ alwaya ip peace. In this sa< cd of Ml enlightened Mid pltohMophte mind, and the most amiable dis' position ever gifted to a mortal. He was formed to instnict and to it beloved' V So called by Knkerton, Carver, &c. INOUN NA.TI0ira,8(e.-^B00K I. «9 «rtd spot of geiieral rendexvoiUf tluit moat raigorernalile of say* age propeaakieai reTenge* ia eanipl«tely subdued. > There ia narble in the temtorj in TarioiM pUtouk ; it reaemo Ues that iv'tedi is commonljr found io Kentuchy : but nrmc of a att(ierior quality haa yet been diacoveied Qn Bon Hommo creek) about fifteen milea'from St. Loutti a quarry of atone was opened sohm tine ago> aaid to equal the French burr. Tht mill stones procured here are thought by good judgoa to be of a su^ perior quality, md it only renaina for ekpericoce to decidtt. Etftha and cfa^ of a raro and usofid kind, hanre hoea found in diflBBreot parts.of die ter ri tory. Oypann> nay be had in any quantities, on the M4ramrit, Osage) Miaaouri, kc ; on the Kan* sas, I hare been iufoi aae d by hunters th«re are wbolo bluffs com* posed of itw lathediabrictof CagioCUrardcautthcreiaakindof clay* which in painting, anaweva the pnrpoao of Ochre, I shall here notice a phenonaenon froquontly ohaenred; but without attempting a solution, iriiicbia left to the scientific. On the St. Francis and in tiie Wlute rhrct country, aohterraneous explosions, have been heard, and their effrcts discerned. The souikd im^ke that of cunon or dntant thunder; and Ae earth 9i.d rocks appear to have been convulsed as though by the force of gun powder. The rocks bh^wu ups are glaaod with » shining natter, of nwtaHjr appearance.* CHAPTBK TI. A vuw ov van vmikm vATiona of M'VuifAirA-«-of van imdiah Tiu»a worn ri7M» he. or Tu MUtoviu avo nn^ sisairn. From the fatal ravages of the small pox, the preaent Indian nadons of Louisiana) particularly on the Missouri, have not the tenth of the numbers which they had near^liirty years ago. ■* * I have since learned th»t the game phenomenon has been koown «n th« Washita, unA on the Sabine. 70 t1teW» OF LOXnSTAWA* Within a few years past* however, they haye been rapidly io- creasing. Notwithstanding the formidable list here present- ed ^ these pec^le are scattered over so wide a country as scarce- ly to be noticed in it. One may travel for days without meet- ing a living soul ; I descended the Missouri one thou$and mUe» without I shall not publish the coUocdons made by me, which must necessarily be much inferior to theirs, diey having had more time and much greuter opportunities. A few primitive words of differem nations will suffice in this view. OSA6B. . They call li>e«iseltes Wasashe, ond are divided Into three Imnds, 1. The Gk«at Osage, X Little Osage, 3. The band of « Big Track," from a chief who left the nation some years ago and is now settled on the Arkansas. Their language may be con • udered the primitive of aeveral others,* which arc spoken by netghbottring nations, without any great difference ; as the Ar^ kansas, Kansas, and Mahas. Their trade is principally in deer skins, bear skins, beaver, oiiter, muskrat, and the Bufi«loe. Theae people have been watedfor their uficommon vtature ; this is somewhat exaggerated, chough they, are undoubtedly atsove the ordinary size of men. The wandering or semi-wamdering na* tbns of Louisiana, noay be characterised as eicceedtng in stature the whites. The Osages ai« reputed warlike, but this arises from their being «t war with all tiieir neighbours, and not from any uncommon degree of bravery. When compared with tl»c Sha* Wanese, and the nations east «€ the Mississippi, they mig^t with iftore propriety be regarded asa treacherous and cowardly racc^ tIfDIAM NATIONS* ici6>-lldOk t. H A pwchaw was mad© a Uik yeart agti by governor Lcwwj or the greater liArt of the coontry claimed by these people, re* serving to thttrt the prlvHegc of hunting bn h, until the eicten- sion of the setUemcrts should retider It inc««iYenient. The ob^ ject of this was to Bx a fccrtdin and cieterflhhnrte boundary for th* exercise of the jurl»mction of the courts, artd in order to dioaway ell (luesttori br difficulty aii t I cipal speaker, Le Sonneur, addressed him With great art, and some I eloquence. He said, that " he was much surprised to hear of this purchase, which had been forgotten by iiis nation, and he suppo- sed, had also been forgottet? by his great father. The sale ^as made by those who had no authority ; and his great father not having complied with his part of the bargain, by delaying two years tiie stipulated payment, and nbtpcrforVning lie b^er Jwrts .1 H , ;i, VIEWS PF LOUISIANA. / of the treaty, bU nation ought nQt to be held to their put of ir, cycn if fairly entered into. But) uXd he, the Osage nation ha» no right to Bell its cQuntry^much less have a few chivfs, who have ta)ien it on thenoselves^idoi so; our country belongs *c our posterity as well w to^rselves; it is not absolutely ourS) we re- ceive, it only for our Jlifetimes, and then, to transmit it to our des- 9C|fdivfit8. Ourgreat father is good and Just, wiU he permii bis children to sell thj^ b9^s of their fathers tP mU the, inberitance of their children! Npr my father, keep yo^r gGod^,aiMl Ictus keep o,i,ir lands." This chief ss^tisfifid me of tl^ talent, for ornitory aroongs^ tbi^e rude ipe^ !l[Ij9 spoH'i^ (for 9P hour, and as pom- pletely exhausted ]4« f^^^ect as vqu]4thDye been done by! the be^^ speaker. J^h speech was evidently pitepQrci4;With care for t)ie occasion. Goyer;nor Ho;i!i>a,rd replied to him with dignity^ and J nncss, and iufpr,]^e4 hiip, that thetreiaty must be kept} that their great father d|4 not con^pel Indians to sell their lands, but whet^ they did sell, the bargain could .not be broken ; that cir- cumstances had rendered it impossible to pay the annuities soon- er, the treaty not having been approved b^ their great father for a cQn|s)derable time, "phat the fuinuities fojr two years were ready for them, if they chose, they; m^ght accept, ^i^pt* it was of no con- Sf^i^iience, the land would still be considered as purchased, and thejir obstinacy would have ^p, other effect than that of displeas- ing their great father. Finding that opposition was useless, they finally promised to use their influence to induce their nation to a,ccept. Theise purchases have a good appearance, but I question whether they are inrcality more just than the French and Spanish xnode of encroaching on their lands, and insinuating themselves into their country imperceptibly ; taking a piece of land as they might happen to w^ it^^ without saying any thing about Indian title, and. keeping thojie people quiet by presents, more pleasing to them than if given as the payment of a debt, for which an equivalent had been received. I Ihnr it is not with respect to In- dian purchases, that we have manifested a conduct more gener- ous and noble than our predecesso' s.; we.in^st look for this in the pains and expense which we have been at, in civilizing and instructing thesi people, together with the uniform practice of advising tfiem to neu^nUity iQ our wars with white aationj) INDIAN NATIONS, &c.- .d warlike. They [reside fifteen leagues up the river Plv "^ and live in commu> |nity and friendship with the IHrni^* mssovRi^, Th^ rempfont of one of the mo^t pumerous nations pf the ^ssouri, and who have given their name to the river. Tb?y were reduced to about eighty warriors. They reside ^ith the Ktoes. Their village was formerly at the mouth of the Grand river. PANI FB9PSQ, A much more friendly and civilized people than those juqt lescribed ; they treat their traders and the whites generally with remarkable hospitality, have frequent intercourse with the Span- »rds, and live about thirty leagues from the mouth of the river *iatte, and in two villages. The Council Bluffs on the Missouri irould be a good place for a trading establishment for the»e p«ow ?le. They have but faint idws of the exclusive right of sqU, and Jiave no fixed boundary ; in wh 'ch, they resemble the greater part If i^vrewsoFtotmnAKA. of these wationi. They hunt on the riven Ptette and Kanuti their country very Httle wooded* but of a beautiful aurfiicet con-' aistiiig of open j^ins. The Pani I^oupifreude on the Wolf river, thirty six lep^es from its mouth. There is said to be a good dml of timbered land between this river and the Corne-de>Cerf, or Elk horn, prin- cipally pine and shrubby oak. The two rivers just mentioned, af^ fbr'cl'excdlent iiavigation; the Wolf river rises iq a lake, or ra- ther a largie fountain. : The Pani, Republican, a sittaU band which seceded^from the nation B few years ago, teside on the Republican fork of thp iLansas river. ,, MAHAS, (or Oo-ma-haJ Reside on the Maha creek, about eighty leagues above the Platte, in their village, and raise corn. A friendly and industri- ous people, and haVe a considerable trade. Their language ori- ginally Osage, All the Sioux bands, except the Yanktons, make wai* ti)^ thehi. Yheir numbers have been* tnnth reduced with- in the last ten years. < POVCAt, Originally M^ha ; village a short distance below the Qui- Courre. They were almost destroyed by the Sioux, their village broken up, tod they were compelled to be altogether wtodering ; but virithm a few ye&rs, they hfive reresti^blished their village, and iure increasing raprtHj. ARIKARA Live 1440 miles up the Missouri, in two villages, an indus- trious people, but from the attacks of their neighbours, are una- ble to hunt iiny odier but tine bUflRiIoe, though their cbuhtry abounds in gattte. Thisy are at present on very friendly terms with the whites,' fh^h guilty a few years ago of an outrage on a party comitianded by lieut. Prior. In kiiy Jdum&i H have dwelt al good deal on^the-customs arid c^haracter of these peojrte, whicb in many respects are peculiar and highly iMeresdfig. Thfey vJrere ofi^hally Pimi. INbUK 'KATlOKUt hC'i^ODK t n MANpAMtt OR «J10S. VMXllKI* The remnants of a number of villagest accoi;din||^ to their accountf seventeen. They claim only the smail portion of coun- try which they actually occupy ; in this, resembling the Arikaras. They still consist of seven vitlages, five of Gros Ventres* and two of MandanSf in the distance of about fifteen miles. They are generally on good terms with each other, but at present there exists eonsiderable dissentions* and even open rupture. There is not the least affinity in their languages, fawttlie Gros Ventre is spoken by all the Maodans. According to the tradition of these last, who were originally of the Crow nation, owing to a quarrel between two chiefs, over the carcase of a bufTaloc which they had slain, a separation took place of the followers of each. CHIEMMBS Are a wandering* natioot on the keadvof the' Chienn» river. Trade with the Arikaras—speak a different language from any nation I know. Their complexion very fair. They trade. also ivith the Spaniards, and have a great number of horses, &c. -/ m. . 8I0VX TIU9XS. On an ancient map I have seen ihem named Naddouwenn- DUX ; the Noddouwessces of Carvert are probably a band of Si« oux— Are nearly all wandering tribes, and may be considered aa divided into four nations, the SiouX} Tetooi Assineboin and Bbckrfeet. TAintT0|l8} Wander in an agreeable oountry, a eonsidevable portion of which is woodland<>^trade on the St. Peters, and-«n the' Mis- souri at the ri^ere jI Jaque. Their trade is not valuable, chiefly buffkloe robes and deer skins ; they are the most friendly ami peaeeable of the Sioux bands. YANK-TONS OP THE NOATIf. On Red river of lake Winipec, and trade with the British establishments. WAHPA-TONl. On the N. W. side of the river St. Peters, to the mouth of the Chippoway river. r» VnW8 OF loumAif A* "lllirDA-WAA*CARTOVf The onljr Sioux band which attends to the cultivation of the. earth ; but this not to any great extent. They live on the Mis- sissippi above the river St Peters. Their country is represent- ed as tolerably fertile, and well watered. WAH-PA-COO-LA, On the S. W. side of the river St. Peters, from a place cal- led Hardwood, to the Yellow Medicine river, some traffic with tiie Yanktons and Tetons west of them SKSSATOMB, On the upper part of Red river and the St. Peters. This country abounds with small lakes, and is valuable for animals, beaver, otter, muskrat, martin, 8cc. They meet the Tetons, 8cc. on the riviere d. Jaque,about the months of May and June to trade, They supply the Yanktons with articles of European manufac- ture, and receive in return, horses, kc. TXTONS, BOIS BRULB, ABKAMDADA, MIKIKINIAD-ZA, BA-HONXi^ These are the pirates or marauders of the Missouri, theio country without timber, and not good for hunting, except as to the buffaloe, they have therefore hardly any thing but buffaloe robes to trade. The Sioux bands claim as follows; ** beginning at the conflu- enceof the riviere des Moines and the Mississippi, thence to the river St. i^ers, thence on both sides of the Mississippi to Crow Wing river, and upwards with that stream, including the waters of the upper part of Red river of lake Winipec, ai«d down to the Pemberton river; thence a S. W. course to intersect the Missouri, at or near the Mandanstand with that stream, down to the Warricon river, thence, crossing the Missouri, it goes to in- clude the lower part of the Chienne river, all the waters of White river, and Teton river, including the lower portion of the Qui Cpurre, and returns with that stream downward to the Mis- souri, thence eastward to the beginning." ^- WDIAN iTATlONft, flte^BOOK I. ft AniMEBOIM) JDMded into the/oUo ■- ■' r^v.--'-' ■ These bands trade with the Hudson's Bay Company, who have establishments on the Assineboin and (^opelle rivers; oc- casionally also on the Saskashawin. Tbeir country has little or no timber. ■X').iT BLACKVBET. They wander on the heads of the Missouri, Maria river, and along the Rocky mountains, they are also Sioux. They trade at the same establishments with the Assineboin, and are ?.! war with the Crow nation. They have been very troublesome to our tra- ders, to whom they have conceived a deadly hatred. Their coun- try the most abundant in beaver and other furs. OROS VENTRES OV THE PRAIRIE, Speak the Crow language, and wander on the south fork of the Saskashawin.. . Mitiiuum th* I^keti and upper part ^the Miatttaippi, •TnvbuO^' CHIPPOWATS, Are divided into three bands, one in a village on an island in Leech lake; another about the head of the Mississippi, and around Red lake, and the third on R!ed river, of lake WinipeC| and about the miouth of Pemberton river. They wander along the hdies, however, to a great distance. They are the inveterate enemies of the Sioux; with whom they have been at war time immemorial. Theur country is tolerably w^ll covered with wood, but abounds with morasses and' lakes. ALGONilUINt Speak the same language with the Chippoways, and Uve in two bands,one on the south side of Rainy lukc, Rainy Luke rivi: r, and the Lake of the Woods ; the other about the meiithb of the Am %ineboin and Re4 rivers. ^^^ ^ 10 vttws OF vavmtKHk. IMUTmiiaoii DoKen«liiiU^cif tilt Cm|ipb«ir«)ni-«>«ii tli« boki of the Auinc bolDf th«ncd are divided into many bands. They possess an Immense number of horses, asses, and mulei. ,j^, Cmoi» INI»IAllt| On the Ycllesr Stone, and heada of the MlMourl i they art divided into a number of small bands. Wander along the Rocky mountains, and sotheUmes ventnrc acrost. Probably a baml of the Snake Indians. The #*tfi/*iiru«, Kiowuy*^ 8ic. are probably banda of nations already enumerated, inhabit an arldi unproductive country. M'-> ^y^tii^ mt\ CAUDOgUlS. / , Thirty-five miles west of the main brancb of lied river, W miles by land above Natchitoches, Amuerly Uved 374 miles bigb* cr up, at a beautiful prairie* which haa a lake of clear water. Th« nation is small, but the warriors greatly celebrated for \\wu eoumge, and as much respected by tbeir ucigUbours» us thf \nighta of Malta were in Europe. VATTASCSS. Fifly miles above Natchitochea on Bayou Pierre, there li i iMAail French scttlemrnt. Thty are but a remnant, but Uvo in « fixed village. Mirl I th«y wt tND!4N NATI01I% ko.-'fiOOt I. % On th« SabiMt abity or Mt cntir mUe« ft«m Um YvUMcet. The French ted fonsieriy « imawf hcr«— kugu«Ktt CmIu^. ADO&lBSt Fortjr miles from NAtchtUM:he»— below the YttttMCet) tin* guage pQCuU«n*-exireiiiel]r UiftkuU to tpeak. Near Nacogdoche«>^ne«rSy exterminated a few jreara ago by the amaU-pox<*-4Mngi>»ge peculiar, hut speak Cmiii6* hTit) ii On the Trinity river, near where the rottd to St Antonlb croaset it. Language pecuiiiMr. TACSKKS, On a branch of the Saline— hoiguage Cadd6— ^ve theii- naroe to the province of TexMMf^-^/iMMiucketf in the aame neighs bourhuod. •KDOtht, On the Trinity, about sixty miles S. of the Nacogdoch^ speak Caddo, but have a pecuUar language. AccoKxaAva, Two ht;ndred mUes S. W. of Nacogdoches, on the W. i^e of the Colerado— speak a peculiar language— wander about the bay ot St. Bcniard. MATBtj On the buy of St. Bernard, near the Guadaioupe— hate tho Spaniards, and are utuchcd to the French — itave a tradition of the landingof La Saile in tliis neighbourhood— speak Attakape*. CARAMKOUAS, On an Island or Peninsula in the !uy of St Bernard, \0 mlW* long and s brosd<»at war with the S|>aiUard»— • peculiar tan< gusge. 4 « ^w9 1)# iOn bad terms with the Spaniards— Bpeak a peculiar language. TANKAWATS) A wandering people, ncni: the Rio Grande. On t^^ ^Hisli^i'W l^id^HiilfbV' ^tHne fMMii \At l!h« ptil^le df the Tortugo— usual residence 300 miles west of Nacogdoches, towards Sta. Fee — speak Pani, or 7hwiat/ie. FANI, OR TOWIACHE) Eight huiAdred miles above Natchitoches, 340 by land. Much dirainishe.' six or eight years ago by the small-pox. MATCHITOCHBS) Formerly resided where the town of Natchitoches Is YrbV sit* uated— Have always been friendly to the whites. They have dwindled away to a few warriors. BOLUXAB) Emigrants from Pensacola — they came with a few French families— arc not mure than thirty in number. There are, be- ^l^tfs^licV^f airmail hmh ort>lirti«s, ori^lniitlly'fi>Mh'Plbrida, the 'Ii^>iiiiiitAr», on 'Bi^you'RtjIpir^e— imAte^(f«, in O^pfeldUM^CVfi- chntat^ of the same nation with the .//A6aiNii«,^^iitrigrated to the Sabine about (tfteen ychrs ago — /'araMa*, a small tribe who live on the Qulequcshoe river, which heads S. W. of Natchitoches. 'i^untifolM^ fiVeln b siYi^ll village «0 iiiiles'abdvt'Nuti^Hitbches. ^iiiH^B»; kt Aviiyii!?, eiiiigi^iits 'ft*om Buyou Tuttlch. 'All thcic iKatl^B^peflk the 'Moblliiin, Whkh was foi'ltidrfy the coitn l«ti- guage amongst the Indian nations ol I.uwcr I.K}uisiana. There Are besides, a number of small bands of C'/racros, on fia^ou Bocuf> mx. ttMt Teche, and on the Sabine. INOlAy NAtHOV^ l(OiTriQ0K I. ^ In th« IndWkn Itiiffttagf ibmm black head, or bUck 9Cft{{.^ TheyAMtborlglnetoftbisdUtviot '» [t ri^pUtajOpp qC bciag »o (|# dw »n,t^^wi5H>|rt»sgj. A f i^^lMh Wi;it«V moi^t, rfil«^oa a (a^ pC twp whUff v)^^ wl>9 fell ii^n Mi<^i|! )iiin4ii(> TBMSA8) Emigranti from the T^nafi, and Baj9U Boeuf.--- ^atAat) for* merly a considerable nation, now extinct^ lived n^filr Nciy Or- leans, and were the firB|: with ifhoni the Frenc|i bec^^e ac- c[uainted. ARCAMftAS) South of the Arkansas village, descended from the Oiage. '—The Houmas and Avoyull extinct. Indiana on the ^fi»ti^Mi i^tmi^v M« l^vmri OpdfJI^e jP^ qf ^t. 4/ftf^on^. AYVWAI, Descended from the Missouris, and c^um the country west of them. Have a village on the riviere dea -Moines, S. E. side^ but arc generally wandering. SAUKBBS, One hundred and forty leagues above St. Louis. Trade with the merchants from Michilimackinac, and St. Louis. Live with the Foxes, and may be considered as identified with those peo- ple. The country which they claim lies principally on the east side of the Mississippi. On the west side, they claim the coun- try of the ancient Missouris by right of conquest, without de- fining any portion to the Ayuwas. To them may be ascribed the destruction of the Piurias, Kaskaskias, Cahokiasi Missouris, and Illinois. m ■^ >' VIBWB OF LOUISIANA, Lower Louisiana^ when first discovered, was inhabited by very numtrous nations; the accounts given bf early writers are almost incredible. Charirvoix states that about the year 1560, there were many powerful nations in what was then called Flori- da. Outina, Timo^oa, and Saturiora, the neighbours of Mons. Ribaut, cbuld each command eight hundred or a thousand war- riors. Onoihaca, and Galo^, one on the eastern, the other on the western side of the Peninsula, were still more powerfiil. In 1 S65, M. Laudam^re sentthirty men to assist Outina, against ano- ther chief, named Patanow, whom they encountered and defeat- ed, his force consisting of two thousand men. The Baya goulaa who were situated near the mouth of tlie Mississippi, whcu vis- ited by }A. P'Ibervil)e» are described as having seven hundred &milies in their principal town. Charlevoix gives a curious de- scription of their tepopl^. In Upper Louisiana (Tcr. Missouri) there are sever^'t^ small bands scattered through the settlements, and in the White river country. Near Apple creek there are two villages of Shawanese, a sober orderly people, and another <>\ > e same on the |4ara* jnek. In i:he White river country,, idbo; . ^vive been cf late consi- derable emigrations of Cherok« es, w^.o ,,re said to claim it-^ Straggling families may he Mnii ^r 11 seasons of the year, en- camped near the villagros, and oi:. ihr banks of tlie Mississippi, who subsist by vending t^^ '-y^wl/i'M of their hunting to the ^hites. These straggiler'^ aiv f tsualiy a miserable and degraded n^^', hiVf and fiiUiy in the extreme. ^M INDIAN NATIONS, &o^BOOK L as M inhabited by arljr vritein «re t the year 1560, icn called Flori- jours of Mons. a thousand var- the other on the e powerful. In lina, against ano- :ered and defeat- rhe Baya goulat ssippi) whcu V18- I seven hundred ^es a curioua de- vce several sfnall the White river ^csofShawanese, le on the l^ava- leen cf late ponsi- dd to claim it.» I of the year, en- > M C» k9 ^ K fi S i B ^'ac P P P 0} X f» «^ A« M V* £* K* M* ED ^^ tr .^h 6 r- CR U M 8 8§ Ok U 00 §(n JlR Q O O O Ut to C3 C9 i^ W Oi o o c 5 o c c o Wi — 8 O O c ^ —> — kO -' (Jt 8 Si^ «> 00 Ui (A (It o o o o o o o 0« (M 88 (t n S o « nT • g- s-s- o o s o 0) w 8"-;; Si. — ■ a* s^ 3. » ST 2 « S' 5 "^ " 3; or 2'« A :S o S. 1 • 2 "" • • • I 0) O O O .A ** C rt B 9 w s § g ' g*rt o » « I- r- 3. HP > g. . 8. I M M 88 (A o o ^1* i**" M O o 8 o O (A O tA O 8 ■! «5 iS'S : S': S =■ 3 «• o K ■0 S- 2 J! -5 8 o o c 9 ^5 3 " 2 I* 3* S O HI « E. (T o • •*> & •5* c 5 A •5 S A 3* A r**o, 2 *• K S rf J; ^<» a I? 9 1 lir I a news jOf lodiiuka. I .g > -C 2 ° g ;« 2^^ Ec^ ^g 3-2 (A INDIAN JHfI10W#» ^* e ^ mmM t VIEWS OF LOUISIANA! ^f v> CO C4 u V 1 Ik. * II .„ ft a S gO g t- 8 o o 1^ •ft C4 8 i (A % l^ m u o a — ar s o CO o c • CIS o o o u O 3 jj « 3 , — y 2 t« « A o to $"■9 c S 13 o. c G cu-js 5 s ^ <^ 3 V z-a »n 8 eg OS Indian nations, &(>-Bootc L 5 > .2 5 S'S-S - -2 u 3 £^ » rt u C o o «o >o •-,§ ^ ^§ before the change of government, the mode of carrying od the Indian traffic, like all other colonial trade, wat by monopo- lies, in which the interest of the governor or intendant was alone consulted. The traders obtained the exclusive privileg* of trading to a particular, tpibc, or upon a certain riyer. But they were cramped jn their enterprise by the narrow views of the government, who established no forts for the protection of the trade, nor would sanction the esublishment of companies capable of protecting themselves. Since the change, a moro extended theatre has been opened, both on the Mississippi and Missouri; ai^d epterprising individuals have ventured up those rivers with great prospects of advantage. The merchandise consumed in this trade, was chiefly brought from New Orleans or Michilimakinac. The place of rendesvous on the Missiasip*- pi, was at prurie du Chien, but there were no fixed trading esta- blishments. . It was usual for the t aders to ascend the rivers in the autumn, remain during the winter at a spot considered most convenient for the resort of the Indians, and return to St. Louis on the breaking up of the ice in the spring, with the pro- duce of their traffic. The only permanent trading establish- ments on the waters of the Missouri, were those of Choteau's, on the Osage river. Others, wintered with the Mahas, Poncas, and at different points on the river. A trader of the name of L'Oiselle, had a fort on Cedar ishuid, iu the country of the Si- oux, neai'ly twelve hundred miles up. This trade could not have been considerable { and besides, the traders were exceed- ingly harassed by vagabond Indians, who frequently pillaged, carried away in captivity, or even murdered them and their men. Notwithstanding the freedom of trading was open to all, on possession being taken by the United States, it was not until after the return of Lewis and Clark from their expedition that any perceptible change took place. Mr. Manuel Lisa, an enter- prising gentleman of St. Louis, was the first to venture towards the source of the Missouri for the purpose of trading. His own capital not being adequate to the undertaking, he was joined by , two or three gentlemen of St. Louis. A brief account of his expedition, as it may be considered somewhat connected with 90 VfKW» OF "LOUiftlANA. iHfi Mr' trade of Louifiiuna, may not be uninlcreflting in this place. He set off in the spring following the return of Lewis and ClaH(. Besides his own bunts there were two others in «onipai>f, %Hich constituted a luler.ible force. This trading expedition wa^ ircry different from a journey ofdiscovery. The dWficulties would ^cessarily be much greater. A purtyof men weH armed and equfpped, und under proper submission to their officers, with pre* ftcntl to bestow to the liil^rent tribes, and nM incumbered with •gooda 0r effects, might, with prudence, pass through with mtichldss difficulty. The case is different where the trader hos unririy hnnds to nMHiage,who thinli themse^res perfectly at liberty when once out of tlie reach of lawt ^vithout dbcipline, 1)bd(y armed, and comitig to the nations, not forihe purpose of making presents, but of trade. All tliese obstacles were encoun- tered by Lisa aixl the traders who accompanied him. Art the riirer Hatte, Lisa nwt one of Le^vis and Clark's men, ■of the name <>f Coulter, who had been discharged at the Mandan vUiages, at4iia own^'equeftt, ^hat he might make a hunt before -be returned. X?-ouUcr wus persuaded to return : his knowledge (oftbccountryand nations rendered him an acfiuisition. Lisa passed «lie country «ftli« SiouK, witliout finding any of that nation. On his turnfti at the Arikara villages, his i«crption was such as to require -Ibc oKl^bif^on^proJence and courage. Two or three htindred iWArriors were drawn up, and on his approach, such as had fire Aims fired a voNeyhefare his boat, to indicate the place where he showld laod. Me accordingly pvK to shore, but instantly made it iLooMm, that no one of them was to enter hie bout : the chiefs at the same time appointed wai'riors to stand guurd and keep off the oroMrd. TIm women, who alwuys trade amongst these na- itioBB, came to the beach with bags of corn, which they offered : an Indian rushed forward, cut open the bags with his knife, vhiie the women took to flight. Lisa, who was perfectly ac- .quainted with the Indian character, knowing that the kast appear- ance ol alarm would be dangerous, instantly caUed his men to at ms, pointed a couple of swivels which were fixed on his boats, and made every preparation for defence. The Indians perceiv- ing thii| dispersed iu contusion i wid after some time, the chiei^ INMAN l«AHOV»,flic.— BOOK I. fl (^roachtd wUh pin* of pc«ctr extended b«rQve Uicra in llicir h»ndc. U^mtdLioif a«0n* of r«coiic> 'v«tion, th«y cmpe to htm,: 9Dd accord^g lo t|H:ii* cuilmnf tirok«d biin on Uh: Ahoii4deirii|f begging him not i» bo dispteased^ declorinis that the IndMit who had offead^sd iHin waa conaidered a bad man. This hud a> g:ood effect, and enabled hha to proceed on his vorave Mrttho«t further moleatution. *: ■ .: ,i: ..t v, i.u On hia arrival at the Srat Manda» vUIage, h4 detenrflicd: to proceed through tlMte vitlagea^ which are aHuoted at intervals along the ri^ii m the dittance of about twemjr miles, while hb- iiioate conlinued to ascend. At this vslhige, be held the oataui co«ncil with tlie chiefs, aiid presented tliem a few rolls •£' tobacco, and cfther articles, and was permitlcd to continiM h\m journey. At the tlnrd viNafpc, his presents were rejected* ami- the chief demanded some powder, which was- relased : Lisa, knew that his life was in no danger white his death coi»M not procure them his goods, and resisted their repeated solicitations in a bold and firm manner ; he told them that they might kill' him, but that his properqr would be safe. Tliey were finally compeUfid to accept of such presents as be oflbred. Afisw days after, having passed the Mandans, he espied the Assineboin nation apf roaching, in a body of fiwror five thou* sand snuls. These waadering people had learned from thelt' scouts, the approach of the traders. The whole praine».to use his expression, was red with them ; some on horseback, others on foot, and ail paimed fior war. His situation required the otmosi boklncBsaad intrepidity. Hechargcd his swivels and made semed, and matters conchided amicably. He continued his voy- age to the Yellow Stone river, which he ascended about One hundred and seventy miles, to the Big Horn river, where he buik a trading fort. He shortly after despatched Coulter, the hunter before mcmioned, to bring some of ^ Indian nations to IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) U. 1.0 I.I ISO ■■■ lllll^B us UD 1.8 i '•2^ 1 '-^ il M ■ 6" ► ^ vw VI ^r '/ /S^ Hiotographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. K580 (716) 872-4503 pi VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. trade. This man, with a pack of thirty pounds weight, His gun and some ammunition, went upwards of five hundred miles to the Crow nation ; gave them information, and proceeded from thence to several other tribes. On his return, a party of In- dianr^ in whose company he happened to be, was attacked* and he was lamed by a severe wound in the leg ; notwithstand- ing which, he returned .o the establishment, entirely alone and without assistance, several hundred miles. Yet such instan* oes of intrepidity would not be regarded amongst .hose people, as any way extraordinary. How should those blush, who are con- tinually whining about the little inconveniences and privations of common life ! Lisa remained nine months at this place. He returned to St. Louis, having indemniiied himself for his voy- age, by considerable benefits. But he ha>';l not chosen the proper VDuntr)-, as the north side of the Missouri was much more abun- ( nt in furs, and of a more valuable quality. After the return of Lisa, the favorable reports which he made, induced a number of gentlemen to turn their attention to this trade, and in a short time a company was formed under the name of" the Mi&'^ouri Fur Company;" of this association Lisa became a member, and has been one of the most active and use- ful. The company was composed of ten persons ; but the capi- tal was greatly inadequate, not exceeding forty thousand dollars. Having collected about two hundred and fifty men, they ascend- ed the Missouri; left trading establishments with the Sioux, the Arikaras, and Mundans, but the principal part proceeded to the three forks of the Missouri, the country most abounding in bea- yert for their intention was to hunt as well as trade, and the great- er number of the men were hunters* But they had not beei) long here until they found their hopes entirely frustrated by the hostilities of th^ ^lack-feet Indians, a numerous tribe, who had unfortunately been rendered inimical to the Amersans by an unlucky affair, in which Lewis and Clark, on their return, had killed two or -three of their nation; besides, probably instigated by the jealousy of the Bi-itish companies. A party of fifteen or twenty American hunters were attacked by surprise, and nine killed. The greatest precaution was found necessary in going* WMQ hunt} they w^nei at length so much harasied by the sava** INDIAN NATIONS, &c.->BOOK I. 9i ges, as to be compelled to remain altogether at their fort, or to venture but a short distance from it. It is supposed that in tho different rencounters with these savages, at least twenty of the whites were killed, and nearly twice that number of the others. Thus a most implacable enmity has been unfortunately excited) which will for a long time, exclude our traders and huntcrS) from that part of the western country by far the most favorable for their pursuits. It is supposed that had they continued unmo- lested) the company would have brought down the first year, three hundred packs of beaver alone. Instead of which there were scarcely twenty. The following spring a considerable number of the party descended the river ; the remainder con- tinued until autumn, when, fearing a general attack, and finding the situation otherwise exceedingly irksome, Mr. Henry, one of the company, who now commanded the party, resolved to cross the mountains, and winter on some of the branches of the Co- lumbia; this he accordingly effected, but not without suffering every possible hardship, from hunger, cold, and fatigue. In the mean time, the company suffered considerable loss from the ac- cidental burning of one of their factories ; this was estimated at fifteen thousand dollars. The establishments at the Mandans and Arikaras, brought no profit. In the spring of the year 1811) the third) and by the time fixed for the duration of the associa- tion) the last, an expedition was fitted out by the company, the command of which was given to Lisa, whom I accompanied. By his prudence and good management, the affairs of the company were in some measure retrieved. A.fter remaining sometime at the Mandan villages, he was joined by Mr. Hemy and all his par- ty, who brought about forty packs of beaver. Leaving trading establishments at the Mandans, Arikaras, and with the Sioux, he descended to St. Louis. It appeared that at the termination of the third year, notwithstanding all these unforeseen difiicuities and misfortunes, the company had saved the capital, and had be- sides the establishments before mentioned. I have been inform- ed that the company has been renewed, and its capital consider- ably enlarged. Such is the present situation of the Indian trade. Besides $hc Missouri company) there are many individuals, who trade if ^• , yVlBWS OP LOUISIANA. , vith nations on the Mississippi) or on the Missouri^^as high s^ the Muhas. There are few of the Indian tribes who hunt; thejr have hitherto had little encouragement ; and besides, the con- titiuai wars which prevail amongst Uiem, renders k impractica- A welif regulated campjuiy, with sufficient capital^, would in a very slwrt tinu: draw ii^mensc profits from the Indian trade of the Mississippi and Missouri. A very great propordon of the North West Company's trade, would find its way down, those ri- vers. The city of New York is highly interested ; ittT situatioi^ muy render it the rival of Montreal in this trade ; the climate oi^ New Orleans is unfavourable to furs and peltries^ Near the heads of all the western^ rivers, tributary to the Mississippi and Missouri, there are immense numbers of the beaver, muskratK otter, and other furred animals. An extensive company* well es- t^tishedt might count upon a thousand packs annually, besides a vast namber of buffaloe robes, which will be found of much use in the slave states, as a cheap and comfortable bedding for ne- groes. The buffaloe would furnish other articles of trade, wool, horns, tongues. See. which would also be considerable. Wolf, bear, elk, and deer skins, might be had in immense quantities. It requires no gUt of prophecy to tell, that such a company will not be long in forming. Shcmld Canada, in the present st^ruggle, , be wrested from Britain^ it would be immediately established. The establislnnent of &ctoriesby the United States, in the In* ^aa country^ have ha4 good effects where they are accompanied by forts, with a small number of soldiers ; they keep those nations in awe, and enable the tr ;" '■,h'!.>.^ VIEW Of Tltfe COTTNTRT ON THE COLUMBIA. BUT little is yet known of this extensive section of our con- Unent; it is certain,, that it is on a much larger scale than the tract east of the AUoganies to the Atlaiuic, but it must be admit- ted, that i*:s relative position with the rest of the world,(exceptas to the East Indies) is much less advantageous. Its remoteness from any Europeaii country or settlement, will discourage the establishment of colonies. Before its colonization can be effected^ the same obstacles as were ^encountered by nearly all the color nists in America, must be overcome, and perhaps still greater. This tract diiters from that fast of the Allegany in one res- pect, and which is of considerable moment ; it does not opea vo the ocean by fine bays, and by large navigable rivers, crossing it parallel to each other. The cause of this difference princi- pally arises from a chain of mountains, which runs with the coesty seldom receding more than sixty miles. The Columbia, and tlie Multnomak, its southern branch, are both confined between thi9 ridge and the principal mountains, until after flowing towarda each other, the one, a thousand, «nd the other, nearly fifteen hun- dred miles, they break through the ridge before mentioned, and find their way to the sea, uniting their waters about sixty nule» frpm it. The other rivers which rise in the Rocky r-iountain% instead of falling into the sea, become tributary either tu th9 Multnomak or the Columbia. Next to .the Mississippi, this river and its tributaries, water ' a greater eittenjt of country than any river of our continent, not even excepting the St. Lawrence. The distance from the source of the Columbia, to that of the Multnomak, which rises with the Colerado of California, is not less than two thousand miles. The Multnomak was not discovered by Lewis and Clark when des- cending the Columbia, its entrance being concealed by an is- land; on re-ascending the Columbia, those celebrated travellers were astonished at the sight of a noble river little inferior to tliua Gen. Clark informed mo that their numbers ntight bo «Mf«ly eatinmtcd at eighty thousand souls. The route taken by Lewis and Clark across the mountaini» \«ras perhaps the very worst that could have been selected. Mr. IItinry,a member of tho Missouri company, and his hunters, havo disc dvered several passes, iK)t only very practicable, but even in their present state, less difficult than those of tho Allegany motuUuina. These are considerably south of the source of Joflbrson river. It is the opinion of (he gentleman last men- tioned, that loaded horses, or even w^gohs, might in its present •tatc, go in the course of six or eight days, from a navigable point on the '''oluntbia, to one on tho wa^cfs of the Missouri.—- Thus, rendering an intercourse with settlements which may bo ibrmed on the Columbia, more easy than between those on tho heads of the Ohio, and tho Atlantic statet. Mr. Henry winter- ed in a delightful country, on a beautiful navigable stream. An attempt is now making to form establishments on tho Columbia, with what success, is not yet much known. This has been undertaken by a company in the city of New York, at the head of which we find Jacob Astot. TVo vessels were ifcspotcU- cd for the mouth of tho river, we are informed, with orders to commence an establishment. A party of about eighty men un- der the command of Wilson P. Hunt, and a blather of Sir Alex. M'Rensie, who was formerly in the employment of the N. W. company, has proceeded across tho mountains. The princi- pal object of the company at present, seems to be the establish- ment of a fur trade tlirect with China. The valuable sea-otter, and the fine furs which may be obtained in this country in great quantities, will undoubtedly produce considerable profits. Whe- •"^hcP t1rtc rejMVnH could be intwduccd Into the United States a* CUUNTHY ON OOLUMDtA.-BOOK I. trois the Rocky mounttlnst to «ny advantage, might be worthy of oxporiment. A shortening of the distance, by more than a thousand leagues, will certainly make it an object, to lessen the the expense and difficulty of transporting goods across the moun* tains, and down the Missouri. It is worthy of consideration, that urlicles usually imported from the East Indies are not of great bulk, or weight, that a small compass will include goods of great value. Hence this trunuportation will be attended with much less difficulty^ There can bo little doubt but that the United States have the best claim to the country watered by the Columbia, at least of the groaler part. If not as a part of Louisiana, yet by the right of discovery, universally acknowledged by European nations, with respect to this continent. We have besides exercised vm.*- ous ucts of ownership over it, and the colony at present forming, is under the pratoction and license of our government. /> A Ind der wel int posi 33« fiftj bou side a pi Mis was Saci ade 18 u east houn BOOK It. VIEWS OF LOUISIANA; IN TWO BOOKS. TERRXTORY OF THE MISSOURI CHAPTER I. 90UVOABIKS....EKTSIfT....|iIVB&SM...eaMERAL VIEW* il.LTHOUQH the executive exercises authority out of the Indian boundary, the territory itself cannot properly be consi* dered as extending beyond xt; the territorial governor) acts as well in the capacity of a general agent for the United States* as in that of civil magistrate. The judiciary has determined that it possesses no jurisdiction over the Indian country. The territory of the Missouri is bounded on the south by the S3* of lat. which strikes the Mississippi about one hundred and fifty miles below the Arkansas, and constitutes the northern boundary of the state of Louisiana. On the west, it mxy be con- sidered as bounded by the Osage purchase ;* this line runs from a place called the Black rock, about .three hundred mileft up the Missouri, due south to strike the Arkansas. On the north, a line was agreed upon in a treaty between governor Harrison, and the Sacs and Foxes, which begins at a point opposite the Gascon* ade river, and strikes the Mississippi at the Jaufloine river. It is unnecessary to observe, that the Mississippi bounds on the east. ! ■ * Except »sh^)| tt. the hoi-se sinks Ht cvvv) «^^Pi I'd the belly ift svaiet- wnti iottse soil ; \M \\\ plutes tttlit tly fetivet^yl^ the t^tiVeUet^ h\\\ fov' the walks oh th^ ti-ees» \v\m\\x\ he !V\ ^ai^g^t* ol l08iW|$ the i-o«^ ttlio^fthei\ l^his swnhip is sixty ii'.\ttis ift l^i^gih) Ahil lb\ii^ bv^)»icl> widetmhtg as it «!i|i|n-o«ches the Jit. t-VattciS. tv\ the sessoh of high vVAtei^ the Mississippi hiwI the Hvet- jwst wei^tlott'fcti, have a complete cownectiotii by metttts ol lhi» low lat\tl. A'ftei* cMssihg the swatttp, \\\tn cot\^m^hces> a M^t VtttiWittg \W the sstY\e cO\U^*»e» atttl ow the Mississippi^ hou«d» !ftg whivl is tttlle'd 1^ WApeiy hottottt i this liilge, i**, rtppioachittg K^t Si. ¥V«txls \vestWft\* swhsitleB. \\\ jwsslng ovev it^ we ap* jseAV to h^ its (k hilly c*^\Vntiy> possessing springs and t^lvnlets i the soiU th'ftyigh ^t^»:\Mlly poor and ssndy^ Is tolerably well tim* be^^d^ At\d not nltibgethev tt»'>fti fov tllh^i Afte*' l>ftssiftg this high land, *>/t entet* again tl\e level plaltt. The ttyad cwsses two takes, one ol which, forw. the Ua^yott 8t» Yohft) at New Madt^di the othet^ Is i^onttccted with lakes tt» th« WestwiitHV They at^ft fotw ov five feet deep, and voi-al htmdi^d >*a<'ds wide, with cleats s-.tily hottoftis. These lakes a»>p foimed fcy the vivtilets of the wpiand l>efot^ de.»ci ibed j they vise ov fall W lft\l*. Ott^iftg th*^ ftkU season, tl«y atxj the iTsoit i>f vast nxtwihers of wild fowl, attd ave fwU of tishv The traX'ellet*, aow tit)m^ a perfect level, alternately piH^lrlei i(t4 ^<^^^\M WfKxi- ot \^\\ oato , walntit, mtilberry) sas»al\'aB, ho* f\m OP tttw titttttrtttv. kp -^ttonit if. m nifty iHfcUHti tJCinftfclly «|ieii) m Itmupil* tilmuftl liy nfu tlnise bf the sht'Uhhy kilul^ ni-t «»«Uttll)r oli tirtfct*? wl (^HiUhtl* t»i»ttVl r*'ot« Ihtt gt'ttVi'S ttf Irtf j|ei» tieftSi They ihh- the [t\\\\\\ Utp) tHtMliWi t1og-» ^btttl* splee woml» ant* the tllflVjfent ftjifi U>9 nf thi' suiiimK »• The |iirthle94 «!• tmlMi^l iitett^iOW«« nt e t«vet*»*t1 Wiiu f^ihss utiH il prtjl\J!ihJH of floweini ttetdft tif «>httle, of t«« tn* Ihiee htnulietli *fe seen* Mirt WtthtMhute tti the plertnU^e df viewlii)* theife iitttMfal merttis The /l«,^ /ffitftf^, thtou^h whlth the )jul»Uc rtiatl iirthieii, Is d tlell^htMl 9p«t I h is tthttut eight miles Irn^g* hmiI IbUi- bi*«atl| etttlbsetl by \Vrto«ls, atitl Intei^siiei'sed with hrflinlfhl gitivesi i*e« lemhllng small Hlahtls. U Is imt sufpassetl In benttly by the af* tlRclrtl metuloW) lmiivt>verl with the gi'eatest tarn. h\ ttasshjg thtwugh these ^i^H^hhs Ih the sjiflhg* the ♦i^avellei* may ^itJi* uti» def the shatly ti^ees, by the I'tifttl sUle, aHtl stifl^v his hurse tri ^etl» while he toasts mi stt^awbet'i-les r»l a stn)eil«i* si«e ami flavot*.«- A immbei' of B;mul faf tits at'e scattet'etl lotiml the edges of the t«^iHe» niul a few wlthlm This tlescH|«lott» may give smtie hlea (»r the c«tmti*y t swmes every whet'e^ a deep bUek etdm'» aiitl ati idly ttpttearaoeet .Tuilghig l>H»m the holders of the lakes* nml the wtdls whUih liave been dug* this soil tloes not seem to be more than three feet diep, Uvj\ a(\er digging throtigb a stratum of sand, there ap- pewrs a kind ol' elay, of a dirty yellow, and ul' ti SH|H»na<^eons ap- pearaneet this Is the substratum of the whole eoumi'y, Hod li perhaps u kmd ol' ipio U', the drposlt of vc» y am.ent alluvia. No stunm are met wltb In any of those wells« thai I have heard of. The grcttteit objeethtn to this < nvmiry In the WROt of loun- taloB ttud ruohing nt«eMms> Wiurr Is procured In wolln oi the depth oftwentyolWew ml rly huH) bvit the ta«lo Is nm «greeublOi 106 VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. owing most probably to their being lined with mulberry, whic& soon c ;ays, and giveo its taste to the water. Mr. Rawle, near New Madrid) has erected a mill on the lakes, on a new construe' tion, requiring no natural full ; the wheel runs horizontally, and entirely under water. On the other side of the Big prairie, as we advancr to the Mississippi, the soil appears to be stronger, and the vegetation exceedingly luxuriant. Tfees are seen of the most towering height, thick underv.ood, and enormous vines, binding, as it were, those sturdy giants, to the earth, and to each other. To clear those forests, requires an immense labor, but the Am'er» lean settlers, usually prefer them, from the superior quality of the land. The creole, un the contrary, generally makes choice of the open ground or prairie. The one, whom scarcely any con- sideration will persuade to remain long in the same place, choos- es a soil which promises to last for ever, while the other, who is seldom induced to change, sits down on land that may wear out in a few years. Notwithstanding the variety of beauties, which attract the at- ^ention of the traveller, in passing through these Ic v lands,jret one who has been ?,cc^stomecl « to the pleasant vicissitude of hill and dale," becomes at length we&ried with the sameness of the scenery, and experiences a relief, on emerging to the high land at Cape Girardeau. From this piece, to the Missouri, the country may be called hilly and broken, but with excellent flats, or bottoms, on the creeks and rivulets, of a width usually pro- portioned to the size of the stream. The river hills of the Mis- sissippi, perhaps from five to ten miles out, are in many places far from being prepossessing- They are badly watered, have many rugged and abrupt acclivities; and considerable precipices; on the river. A strange appearance is also given by the number of iun- nels, or sink hoks.fmmed by the washing of the earth into nssures of the limestone rock, on which the country reposes. In other places, flint knobs ort sent themselves, strewed with rude mas- ses of horn stone, and afibrding a scanty nourishment to a few straggling black jacks, or groves of pine. But it is not to be understood that this forms the greatest prgportion of the landsr FACE OF THE COUNTRY, Jec.-BOOK 11. tor at more minute description of particular parts will prove the contrary. Even in these places there is abundance of fine grasS) affording excellent pasturage. For thirty miles above Cape Girardeau, (with the exception 6f some places near the Mississippi) and extending back to the St. Francis, there is a country not unlike that around the head of the Ohio ; though not quite so hilly. The timber nearly the same, hickory, oak, ash, walnut, maple, and well supplied with springs and rivulets. North of Apple creek, there is a tract on the river, of very unpromising aspect, extending to the Saline, within nine miles of St. Genevieve. It is scarcely fit for tillage, badly watered, with woods of a poor and straggling growth ; but to make amends in some degree, for the sterility of the upland, there is a fine bottom (Bois brul6) terminating just b'jlow the Saline, of twen- ty miles in length, and on an average three in width. In the neighbourhood of the Saline creek the land is exceedingly bro- ken and hilly, though tolerably well timbered, and not altogether unfit for cultivation. On the d Vase,* there are many fine tracts, and extensive platts. From St. Genevieve to the Maramek, and extending back, the same description will apply, except that the country is more rough and broken, but generally better watered, beinp; travers- ed by la riviere Habitation, Big river, the Mineral Fork, the Pla-* tin, and the Joachin. In some places the country is exceeding- ly wild and romantic. Ledges of limestone rock frequently shew themselves on the sides of hills, forming precipices of twenty or thirty feet high, and have much the appearance of re- gular and artificial wt.lls. What is somewhat singular, they are generally near the top of the kiUl, which gradually slopes down to the vale of some rivulet : a vitw of great extent and mai^ni- ficence is presented to the eye ; rocks, woods, distant hills, and '* Apple creek — ^the Saline>and the A' Vase, are considerable Btre&ms, which rise, as well as Big river (a branch of the Maramek) and some other streams, in a high ridge, about fifty miles west .^the Mis- sissippi, which separates these waters from those of the St. Francis. W9 VIEWS OP LOUISIANA. a sloping lawn of many miles * The whole, forming prospectS) the most romantic and picturesque. North of the Ivlaramek there are fewer rugged hills ; the land is waving. Towards the river, nearly to St. Louis, the country is not well watered, it is also thinly timbered, and the soil but indifferent. On Grav6, and in the Bon Homme settlement, between the Maramek, and the Missouri, the land is good, and generally well adapted to cultivation. Between St. Louis and the Missouri, with but trifling exceptions, the lands are of a supe* rior quality ; there are some beautiful spots, as the village of Flo« rissant, and the environs. No description can do justice to the beauty of this tract The Missouri bottoms, are covered with heavy timber, and by many are preferred to those of the Missis* vippi or of the Ohio. The tract of country north of the Missouri, is les'i hilly* than that on the south, but there is a much greater propor- tion of prairie- It has a waving surface, varied by those'dividing ridges of streams, which in K ntucky, are called knobs. These prairies, it is well known, are caused by repeated and desolating ^res,t and the soil is extremely fertile. Such woods as remain * Near col. Hammond's farm, there is a natural curiosity worth no., ticin^. A hill, commanding a most extensive prospect, embracing d, 9cope of fifteen or twenty miles, and in some directions more, is com*. |)letely surrounded by a precipice of the sort described. It is called Bock Fort, and might answer the purpose of fortification ; it is nearly two hundred feet higher than any of the surrounding hill a, and on the top there is a level space often acres, overgrown with trees, the soil is good. The Platin, which winds at the base of the hill, and whose meandering course, can be traced by the sycamore and other trees peculiar to river 1}ottoms, render the prospect still more agreeable. The fort is acces- sible only by two narrow passes up the precipice or wall, and a fine fountain issues out from the rock. ■\ The plains of Indiana and Illinois have been mostly produced by the same cause. They are very different from tlie savannas on the pea board, and the iromens6 plains of the Upper Missouri. In the prai- Ties of liidiiuia, I have been assured, tk::t the woods in places have been known to recede, and in others to increase, wi'hin the recollection of the old inhabitants. In moist places, the woods are stiirstanding, the $rt meeting here with obstruction. Trees, if planted in these prairies, would doubtless grow, {n the isUndSt preserved by accidental causes, PACE OP THE COUNTRY, Sic.^BOOK II. 109 are fine« but the quantity of adjoining prairie is usually too great. There are large tracts however admirably suited for settlements: a thousand acres or more ot wood land) surrounded by as mtich of prairie. It is generally well watered with fine streams, and also interspersed with lakes. There is an extensive strip of land along this side of the Missouri, of nearly thirty miles in width and about one hundred and fifty in length) altogether woods, and of excellent soil. An old gentleman who has seen Kentucky a wilderness) informed me, that the appearance of this tract is si- milar, with the exception of its not being covered with cane, and a forest so dark and heavy. The " Forks of the Missouri," (such is the name given to the northern angle, formed by the two great rivers,) daily increases in reputation, and is settling faster than any part of the territory. The Missouri bottoms, alternately appearing on one side or other of the river, are of the finest kind for three hundred miles up, generally covered with heavy timber; the greatest part of which is cotton wood of enormous size. -The bottoms are usually about two miles in width, and entirely free from inundation. A.- bove this, in many places, after a small border of wood on the bank, the rest, to the bills or bluffs, is entirely bare. The bottoms of the Mississippi are equally extensive and rich, but not so well vrooded. They are in fact a continued succession of the most beautiful prairies or meadows. The tract called Lea Mamellcs, from the circumstance of several mounds, bearing the appear- ance of art, projecting from the bluff some distance into the plain, muy be worth describing as a specimen. It is about three miles from St. Charles; I visited it last summer, and ascended the mounds to have a better view. To those who have never seen any of these prairies, it is very diificult to convey ary just idea ■%■ the progress of the fire can be traced ; the first burning would only scorch the miter bai'k of the tree j this would render it more suscep- tible to the next, and the third would completely kill. I have seen in places, at present completely prairie, pieces of burnt trees, proving thut the prairie had been caused by fire. The grass is usually very luxu- riant, which is not the case in the plains of the Missouri. There may doubtless be spots where the proportion of salts, or other bqdies, may be such, as to favor the growth of grass only. 110 VIEWS OP LOmfillANA. /?- of them. Perhaps the comparison to the smooth green esa^ if the best. Elevated about one hundred feet above the plain, I had a view of an immense extent. Every sense was delighted, and every faculty awakened. After gazing for an hour 1 still con- tinued to experience an unsatiated delight, in contemplating the rich and magnificent scene. To the right, the Missouri is con** ceuled by a wood of no great width, extending to the Missis- sippi; the distance often miles. Before me, 1 could mark the course of the latter river, its banks without even a fringe of wood ; on the other side, the hills of the Illinois, faced with limestone, in bold masses of various hues, and the summits crowned with trees: pursuing these hills to the north, we see, at the distance of twen- ty miles, where the Illinois separates thtm, in his course to the Mississippi. To the left, we behold the ocean of prairie, with islets at intervals. The whole extent perfectly level, cover- ed with long waving grass, and at every moment changing co- lor, from the shadows cast by the passing clouds. In some pla- ces there stands a sohi^Ary tree of cotton wood or walnut, of enor- mous size, but, from the distance, diminished to a shrub. Fifty thousand acres of the finest lanld, arc under the eye at once, and yet on all \^is space, there is but one little cultivated spot to be seen: When the eyes are gratified, with the survey of this beautiful scene, the mind naturally expatiates on the improve- ments of which it is susceptible, and creative fancy, adorns it, with happy dwellings and richly cultivated fields. The situation in the vicinity of these great rivers, the fertility of the soil, a gar- den spot, must one day yield nourishment to a multitude of be- ings. The bluffs are abundantly supplied with the purest water ; those rivulets, and rills, which at present, are unable to reach the great father of waters, and lose themselves in lakes and mar- shes, will be guided by the hand of man into channels fitted fo^ their reception^ and for his pleasure and felicity. CUMATE & DISEASES—BOOK R. Ill CHAPTBB III. eLIMATB— DISEA8B9. WHAT is generally remarked respecting the climate of the U. States, is particularly applicable to this territory ; to wity variablenessr In the spring and winter, during the continuance of S. W. winds, it is agreeably warm; but by the change of the wind to N. W. the most sudden alteration of weather is produ- ced. The winters of St. Louis are usually more mild than in the same latitudes east of the Allegany mountains, but there are fre- quently several days in succession of greater cold than is known even in Canada. Last January (1811) after several weeks of de- lightful weather, when the heat was even disagreeable, the ther- mometer standing at 78°, a change took place, and so sudden» that in 4 days it fell to 10** below 0°. This winter was also re- markable for a circumstance, which the oldest inhabitants do not recollect to have ever witnessed ; the Mississippi closed over twice, whereas it most usually remains open during winter. The settlements of this territory, have in some measure ob- tained the character of being unhealthy. There is no doubt, but that, as in other parts of the western couarry, which have not been properly put under cultivation, autumnal fevers will pre- vail. The vicinity of the lakes has not been remarked as more unhealthy than at a distance : convenience generally induces the settler to choose this situation. It is a prevailing notion, that to be sick the first summer, is what every settler must expect. This is not generally true. In some parts of the territory, the district of New Madrid, and immediately on the Mississippi, this seasoning is severely paid : but in other parts of the territory, I can say with confidence, that not more than one tenth undergo it, and that in a slight degree. From the first of August to the last of September, is considered the most unhealthy. Much depends upon the care which the settler takes in avoi'l- ing whatever may tend to produce sickness. The scorching heat of the sun is universally agreed to be unfavorable to health. Night dews and exhalations are not less so. The food of most of the settlersi is calculated to generate bile ; great quantities of lis VIEWS OP LOUISIANA. fat iK)rk, seldom any fresh meatt or vegetables, and larj^e qu&n« titles of milk und coarse corn breud are used. The mepiiitic exhalations from putrid vegetables, and from enormous musses of putrifying trees, in the new clearings, also contribute to this insalubrity. The fields of com, with which the settler surrounds his cabin, are thought by many, to be another cause ; the loliagC' of the corn is so rich and massy, that it shades the earth, and prevents the action of the sun from exhaling unwholesome damps. The last season was uncommonly unhealthy throughout the western country, and this territory experienced it in a degree not less than many other places. The natives, and the oldest in* habitants, were attacked, as well as strangers. The Missouri) vrhich had never experienced it, did not escape. This season did great injury to the commencing emigration to this country i many who had suffered, retired from it, and others who had determined to come^ changed their minds. CHAFFEB IV. POLITICAL DrVISIONS— fNHABlTAKTS — SETTLEMENTS— POPUtATION. SHORTLY after the taking possession of this territory^ it was divided by proclamation of governor Harrison, into six districts: 1 St. CharleS) 4 Cape Girardeau, 3 St. Louis, 5 New Madrid, 3 St. Genevieve, 6 Arkansas. The territorial legislature has again subdivided these districts into townships. The term " district" corresponds with the county of the states. The inhabitants are composed of whites, Indians, metiffs, a few civilized Indians, and negro slaves. The whites, consist of the ancient inhabitants, and of those who have settled since the change of government. The former, i>OLITtCAL DiVISIOKS, 8cc.-^00k tt. il.l ai'C chiefly of French origin ; there were scarcely more thai! three or four Spanish families in this province, and the citizens t)f the United St?.te!i, although advantageous offers were held out to them, rarely settled on this side of the river. The French inhabitants resided ia villages, and ciiltivaied common fields ad- jacent tp them; in the manner of many parts of Europe: it was here, also, rendered in sbme degree necessary from their situ- ation. Thei*e were always good reasons io apprehend the attacks of Indians ; of which, on some occasions, they had a Jfatal experi- ence. iThe small number of Americans settled here, is also ow- ing to the tide of emigration having set in for the western states. Keitucky, Ohio and Tennessee, wet yet unpeopled. Besides) until it Was transferred to the United States, there was no secu- Hty against the dept'cdations of Indians. For these three last years, the settlements have been increas- ing rapidly. The American mode, of living on detached farmSf has been adopted by a niimbet of the French inhabitants of vil- lages, and the settlements, m larger or smaller groups. The frontier, at least below the Missouri, may be said to have retired, sixty miles west of the Mississippi, and the settlements on the rivers, are perfectly safe from the attacks of a savage ene- iny, should any be apprehended. Within the last two years, farms have been opened, from the Missouri to the Arkansas, on the Mississippi ; and oh this river, above the Missouri, they extend) at distant intervals, to the t'rairie du Chien.* On the Missouri, they extend upwards of two hundred miles from the mouth of the river. Near Fort Clark, there at*e a few ihrms, which hate lately been opened. Next to th^ banks of the navigable rivers, the public roads, form the greatest indiicement for making settletnetttS. There are consequently establishments on nearly all the roads whicjh traverse the territory ; seldom at a greater distance than five or six miles from each others ^ In case bf Indian war, these remote and feeble settleiiients will have to be broken up. But there is very littk: to be apprehended from incursions into! the mOre populous parts of the territory south of th« Missouri. This is as secure as the interior of Kentticky. lli VIEWS QJF LOUISIANA. An cnumcrauon of the principal i^tUcment^ \vilij;totb,e un- intcrcsiing-:-! sliall therefore begin wiUt t^tose o|^ the district of _^t. jLouiji. TJt^at of Bon Iloomie is a^ong^t the niost not^dr— |t is op a.c^'eek of thu;t t)an\e.ahoi^t fifteen miles from St. Louis: %t th^i I^AC*;, the Mur^mck and Missouricpinc >jv^.lhin eight miles of each other, ^he land ib said to be j^ood, and there are ^n this 8€ttlci^c/)t spnpe very respectable farmers. Lp riviere des F,cres, ar^d p branch of it) culled Qrav6, arc ^Iso tqleri^bly well in- l^abited^ fr9m its vicinity to Bon Hqinmey it in^y l^e considered a part .of the safi)e ^ettjeinent. La rivere des Perc^, b a hand> so:nc stream \yhich enters tlic Mississippi l^etweet) St. Louis atid the M^r^ck. On the Missourij frx^m t^e jiuiction to the mouth of Bon Ii9mnic, there is a cpii^ioued and e;ccel.lent set- tlement. Immediately on ti^e Maramekthc lopd ii^ broken, but vrell adapted to the culture of grain : the river bottoms, I have blreaber of scattered settlers ; ijijid in tlie neigh- bourh994 of jthe Joachin, i^umerous ^nd extensive improve- ments. In the district of St. Gcncyi&ve^ the principal compact settle- ments are on Bi^ ^y^h >yhic) passes tl^rough t^ie tna^t of lead m^nes : the lari^est, t,hiit of Belle Vue, is aboyt fifty mile:^ west qf the town of St. G|:/)^vieve. There is aUp a sfsttlement on the §t. Frqpcis, witjbin this djif tricty per)iaps not inferior to any. In ^the neighbourhood of the mines, there ^re usually a number of farnjs. On la riviere ^abhatbn, the k Vase, 911. th^ Saline, and on Apple creek, there arc a number of small settlements, and all over the district there ^re scattered farms. Bois brule bot- tom^ has also a i\umber of ^ood plantations. Cape Girardeau, cpntains some of the best settlements in the tcrritprv. Burd*s is the principal ; it is a icyr miles from the Mississippi, on excellent land ; the improvements extensive.— There is also a large settlement of Germans, about thirty miles west of the town. They live well, and are becoming easy in their circumstances : there are also a nun)ber of good farms in Ty- w^pety bpttom. In general, the settleroepts are much scatter- ed in this district. POLITICAL DIVWibNH, &c.-iB'OOK U. Hi In the district of St. Chatles, the settlcnSents ar^ also' Consi- derable. They extend up the Missouri, nearly tWo Inmdrcd ifriles. Thoii^fh between tWe more cohiiideruble t^^roups, the phin- tatibns are thUiiy scattered. Chan-ette, is the next village after St. Churlcs, about fifty mile!^ abdve ; it ikcompt^sed of ten or' twrclvfe f i*ertth famlK^s, who live close together, after tliic ancient custom. There are about forty families on ^It riVerj abovib thif, who live in the American mode. At the' Cotter island, there isa^ settl«Jment, larg^e enough to affbrd a cotiipany of niiliti^.- Bclbvr' the Osage rivek*, but withih sig;1^t, <)h the opposite sldb of the iVlissouri, there is a Frtnch' villbj^e of ubbtif tw^enty forfiilies ; it' is called Cdte sans' Dessbin. But (ar'tfife btJsf^etttie'm'eiit 6H thij^ Missouri, is that near the Nfine riViiir, tih tliW Sf. E sldiofth'e^ river, and extendi'nfe abtmVsii mlteS aWrife the bank. There ar^' here about eighty famititSs; S6t*»6 engagcd'iti *wi6ndng salthbson the river bteforfe ni^ith iitiy dile. Incase bf Iridian war, these poot sti^gglei's will' nibsTpi^ibiibly life butchfefred,uH-' less' fortunate eiibd^h to e^cat)i^'ihto'th(;'set*t!eni'eHtb.'' Thb'disttritJt of New Madrid' is but thinly irihitbJti}a,'eohslder- ing the greW'prtiprirtitiii'of Bhblsftld; wHiWit coilirfih«. Thei^ are soihe^obdfiifiu^in the hei^hbouMibdd'bf th^ Villk^^i There are'also sdttib settlemettts on the S^t. l^ranbisi oii tlltf Tiartks of tlib Miiisissi|Jtiii attd'thi^ugh the ptt^iries tb^^'drdk tafm Oii^i^deau r particularly on the public road. I travelled bv^fit'-wflfenlt Waaf a Wilderness ; the contrast even now, is pleasing: some one who passes here at a future day, will fihdr'stUl gi^atWtaUatJ of won- 41^ VIBW8 OP L0UT8UNA. der. Little Prairie, thirty milei below New Madrid, on the rlv^ ^r, ia M cuutiderable aettlement.* The aettlemeptaof the Arkansas, are principally in the neighs bourhood of the Arkansas Post, or extend up the river, and are the least considerable of the territory. There ^re besides, a number of snoall groups through the "VVhite river country } but so bcattcred and remote, that it is dif- ^cult to obtain any informatiqn respecting them. A number of families in the course of the present yet^r, have removed to Spi'ing river, and bthers are preparing for it. Several families ■who arrived at St. Genevieve from the District of Maine, have l^ctualh' set out for the Sftme place. A village has been com- menced at the mouth of Spring river, and consists already of ^ store, tavern, 8cc. There ^eems to prevail a rage amongst the frpntiers-meni for emigration to that quarter. The emigrants to this territory, arc chiefly from North C^* Tolina, and Kentucky ; of late, the western part of Pennsylvani^ contributes considerably to its population. The excellence and cheapness of the jands, besides the permission of holding slaves, ^ill cause this territory to be preferred by emigrants from the southern states, to any part of the western pountry, unless it be on the Ipwer parts of ^he Missishippi, whose unhealthy climate, indcpendant of the high price of lands, wiU counterbalance ma- ny other advantage9. It is perhaps good policy in our gqyerninent, circumstances considered, to thicken the frontier, and to suffer the intermedi- ate space to .fill lip gradually. But it is scarcely necessary to hol4 put indi)cements for this purpose; it has already taken a start, "which it \|riU be {^Imost impossible to arrest. The uncertainty in 9 greatnumber of the land titlci;^ particularly of the large claimants, presents an obstacle to the torrent of emigration ; h\it I should pot be surprised, if in five years, this territory should contain sixty thousand spuls.t * At prefient entirely tpder water, by the earthquake. f A cpihblnation of the most unexpected events have contributed in pheckingf this emigration i the uncotnmon uahcaithiness uf the last Reason, the dread of Indian war, and the tarthqmke. POLITIQAL DIV16I0NS, &e.—BOOK II. Uf . The munners of the first lettlert, are not such m writers UiiUAlly represent them. A principal cause of their removal to thu frontier* is the want uf wild pasturage, or range^ as it is call" (d, for their cattle; and those who have been accustomed to the greater ease und frcedon> of this half shepherd life, naturally desire a continuance. These people, advancing westward) into the vast ph>ins which do not admit of compact settlementSi may come still nearer to tlie pastoral state. The remote settlecsy contrary to what would be supposed, from their situation, are not only shrewd and intelligent, but also far from illiterate.—- The most trifling settlement, will contrive to have a school maS" ter, who can teach reading, writing, and some arithmetic. Ve- ry diflerent from the good nutured, but unenterprising creole> who does not know a letter of the alphabet. A lady, who had resided with her husband two years at fort Osage, three hun- dred miles up the Missouri, told me, that descending the river) on her return from that place, she observed on the very spot) where, on ascending she had seen a herd of deer, several chiN dren with books in their hands, returning from school ! The settlement had been formed, while she was at the fort. The frontier is certainly the refuge of many worthless and abandoned characters, but it is also the choice of many of tho noblest souls. It seems wisely ordered, that in the part which is weakest, where the force of laws is scarcely felt, there should be found the greatest sum of real courage) and of disinterested vir- tue. Few young men who have emigrated to the frontier, arc without merit. From the firm conviction, of its future import- ance, generous itnd enterprising youth, the virtuous unfortu- nate, and those of moderate patrimony, repair to it, that they may grow up with the country, and form establishments for them- selves and families. Hence in this territory, there are many ster- ling characters. Amongst others, I mention with pleasure, that brave and adventurous North Carolinian, who makes sL distin- guished a figure, in the history of Kentucky, the venerable col. Boon. This respectable old man, in the eighty-fifth year of his age, resides on Salt river, up the Missouri, at the settlement I have bvfore mentioned. He is surrounded by about forty fami- lies) WHO respect him as a father, and who live under a kipd pf ^ / n* ¥WVy« 01^ I.OV»tAtrA. r* Aiv nut nceeiMttoui pf rMmtHi whd t^AVf fl^d (bt* theli* eftmei bf Aduttititt I \^¥y All llv« w«H, (inti tMi(«i(^»>t th« ti««(imMiH«i untl «^H)'.i«. l^tht^ptti thi^y ti'vi«tt wttt«iy In ttlti«)tH9 themM@l¥«N tit ti ttiii(An(^>^ fbuiii lh« deMtt iiutl'uii^Mt«n«« of tK« woHHi Tlit»y en* \tif m \\t[{\mm\^mh[MWi\ tthtt (ii*«iii tomtbvt in ih«lip iintb Noei' «ty) t)«ynhH the (i()h%i«« t^f thnt Ibh^i* untttety, wh«ve tit<>¥«ram«nt li h«f t'i'liify t wli(>i*i>( wHIimit walli of Mttdvnttnti ttntlb^nHi of iHMti ttit! .^Mii^A /V^Hi^, tti" the MSimttf D¥*^itmm\ wmtM tmmplti iHrtv ti»>ev«rlty« (h«tt« Htiti|iln«{iiiiitntt tht*iv deitrtsit |)«m««8Ioiik um* il^f l\>»t H«r« they ai*e truly fi*^^ ) «H«mpt tvotn thte y«xln|( tta* lt6« to>'*i •Kt^'risUlbhRi «vt«n of th« hent of guviPiitmemn ) they attt , nt>Uh«(* tiiiii(tll«tt by the rttuHheih of AtttbUioui mf tbHMt'«tl by tho poUon of pMrty Mi^lHt. U out thlni tms of the inom ttower(\il ln>« ientiveHi whbh lHt^t>|i the ^mntltHMg' ^Hfl»o^M(>WhtM)>to buty hlwielf In the ttildiit of the wllderneiiii f the (bllowint; U nn nbtitiniGt of the t^t>^ltitlon of ibo teirU I0171 ae^tot^lbg to the \mx tetiHtivt Bt. Chht'hM I I St. Louli . ; • ^. Qehevleve . Cape CIti'tinleAU New Mtitlt'ltl . Hopel'leltlT 8t* PfuneU C ' 4,690 3.ei}B d^lOD t I I I k I tea !ii.ii4ai Allow foi* the ttnopit At the military poAta to thU territory > • « 100 Hunting ehd irittlhtg pArtleK up the MU> ftout'l antl Ntlftslsulppl * 4 • 300 Famlllei settled itt remote plmeeii tmd not fbund by the iherllf . 1 . 300 Of these, 1.0 1 1 ere ftlevei \ the number of cWIIUcd tudieni •nd of itietlflli) not knowhi but cttouot be eonildert\ble. "^owNi Ik vDUt4ue» *-t}uyu It ut» CUAP^Ifilt V. YOWm AMU trItLAOil. AMONtlHT the Amprictinii, te^xj anwrnl'lM^** of htiM««»» m fnmtv uf how fimttU m mittiht*^ in ^ctmmlhrtteil a t9WHi in thii tdUhtrjr cvei'y itUte «M«e|n New OHenhst hbw«\rer «ou»lt}> pt»^W^ 9V i>Ht«n!iiv«, is ijiitted n %itttig«^ T( slderable extent 'ijt ^rt)Uhd. t^iach house with Its aitpurtenuneet) has the at^t^eaianee of one nf our farin)rartls> All litntis of tit H@t tmn^ hogi) shee)tt mingle with the passengers, in the streets. These tenements are generiilt)r ei^tlo'^ed ^rith cetlitf |titkets, )itatett tn the manner of stMtkadcs, ami sometimes with stone walls. The houses are hullt In ii verjr singular furtfii at^tt It is salu, eo|iletl atler the fashion of the West Indies. The^f ito not e)(teed one story tn helt^ht, and *hose of the ntore weA^>« thy are surrounded with s|^iioMi galleries i some only on ont or two sides, wtdle the poorer elass are obliged to put tip with naked walls, and' a pimr haldtatlon. These galleiies ure eit« tremely useful ) they render the house »**hiI iijt>d agreeable tit svunmer) and ufford ti pleasant promenadD in Uie heat of tht day. tn building their houses, the logs, instead of being Mid horU ttontrtlly, as ours, are pUced In u pcrpentiteular po'dtiout the i»« terstiees closed wl(h earth or itone, as w)th us. This cm*\k» tutes a more tlurahic dwelling, and It retains its shape ntuch longer. The itiof Is eittrenuly btttad, estcndln^ out with a gradual slope, iV>r the piupose of an\>hll(tg a covering to th« gallery. Wittdn these two years, somo alieiation U pirt:« p(ihl« in the general lippcariince if the villages, tVum the immductivn 1^ VIEWS OP LOtnSlAlf A. / of a new mode of building by the Americansi of frame, stonCj or brick, and in the use of what was before unknown, signs and boards, to indicate the residence of persons following different trades or occupations: although a trifling circumstance, it is a characteristic. ■ In none of the villages or towns is there a market house ; the reason I have already mentioned, the inhabitants raised their own provbions, and were all cultivators of the soil. ST* LOUIS Is the seat of government of the territory, and has always been considered the principal town. It was formerly called Pain Court, from the privations of the first settlers.* It is situated in latitude 38° 23' N. long. SQ® 36' W. This place occupies one of the best situations on the Missis- sippi, both as to site and geographical position. In this lust res- pect, the confluence of the Ohio and Mississippi, has certainly, much greater natural advantages, but the ground is subject to inundation, and St. Louis has taken a start, which it will most probably retain. It is perhaps not saying too much, that it bids fair to be second to New Orleans in importance, on this river. The ground on which St. Louis stands is not much higher than the ordinary banks, but the floods are repelled by a bold shore of limestone rocks. The town is built between the river and a second bank, three streets running parallel with the riv- er, and a numb«r of others crossing these at right angles. It is to be lamented that no space has been lefi between the town and the river; for the sake of the pleasure of the promenade, as well as for business and health, there should have been no encroachment on the mal'gih of the noble stream. The pHncipal place of business ought to have been on the bank. From the opposite side, no- thing is visible of the busy bustle of a populous town ; it appears, closed up. The site of St. Louis is not unlike that of CinciiinacL . How different would have been its appearance, if built in the • judging from many of the names of villages, one might tuppose that they had not been settled under the most happy auspices} there are /Miiete, Creve-coeur, and Yuidepochbf .^- TOWNS & TILLAGES.— BOOK It. m Itame elegant manner : its bosam opened to the breeses of thft river, the stream gladdened by the enlivening scene of business and pleasure^ compact rows of elegant and tasteful dwellings, looking with pride on the broad wave that passes ! From the opposite bank, St. Louis, notwithstanding, appears io great arivantage. In a disjoined and scattered manner it ex- pends along the river a mile and an half, and we form the idea of a large and elegant town. Two or three large and costly buildr Ings (though not in the modern taste) contribute in producing this effect. On closer examination, the town .seems to be com- posed of an equal proportion of stone walls, houses, and fruit trees : but the illus^n still continues. On ascending the second bank, which is about forty leet above the level of the plain, we have the town below us, and a view of the Mississippi in each direction, and of the fine country through which it passes. When the curtain of wood which conceals the American bottom shall have been withdrawn. Or a vista formed by opening farms to the river, there will be a delightful pros- pect into that rich and elegant tract. The bottom at this place is not less than eight miles wide, and finely diversified with pr^- rie and woodland. Ther^ is a line of works on this second bank, erected for de- fence against the Indians, consisting of se-. :;ral circular towersj twenty feet in diameter, and fifteen in height, >> small stockaded fort, and a stone breast work. These are at present entirely un- occupied and waste, excepting the fort, in one of the buildings of which, the courts are held, while another is used as a prison.—* Some distance from the termination of this line, ^p the river, there are a number of Indian mounds, and remains of antiquity j which, while they are ornamental to the town, prove, that in for- mer times, those places had also been chosen as the site, per- haps, of a populous city. Looking to the west, a most cliatiuing country spreads ^tself before us. It is neither very level nor hiliyi but of an agreeable Ivaving surface, and rising for several miles with an ascent al- most imperceptible. Except a small belt to tlie north, there ate no trees ; the rest is covered with shrubby oak, internjixed m VIEWS OF LOTJISIANA. Mirith lta2els, and a (bw trifling thickets, of thorn, crab apple, frr plum treei. At tlie first glance we are reminded of the environs of a great city ; but there ate no country scats, or' even plain farm houses : it is a vast wuste, yet by no means a barren scal.-^ Such is the appearance^ until turning to the left, the eye again catches the Mississippi. A number bf fine springs take their risk here, and contribute to the itnaven appearance. The greats er pai't iull tb the S. W. and aid in forming a beautiful rivulet, which a short distance below the town gives itself to the riv- er. I have been often delighted in my sblitafy Walks, to trace ibis rivulet to its sources. Three miles from town, but within view, amongst a few tall Oiiks, it rises in foiif or five silver foun* tdiiiS, ivithih short distances of each other: presenting a picture tb the fancy of the poet, or the pencil of the painter. I have fan* i tied fiiiyself for a moment on classic ground, and beheld tho Naiads pbutihg the stre'am from their uitis. Close to the to\eld of St. Louis was forme?ly enclosed oa this bank, ccitoistihg of seVeral thousand acres ; at preient there are hot tnore than two hundred under cultivation )* the rest of tho grolkndl looks like the i^orh cotnmcMi, in the neighbourhood of b !&rg& iown ; the grass kept down and short, and the loose sbil in several places cut open ih'to gaping ravines. St. Louis Was first established in the spring of 1/64. It was ^'riWcipKaliy tettled by tlit itttiabitants who abandoned tho village rinting office^, and twelve mercantile stores. The y^lue of imports to this pl^ce in the cour;se of the year, may i>e,estimat- ed at two hundred and fifty thousand dollars. The outfitsfo^ the different trading establishments,, on (he Mississippi or Mis- souri, are made here. The lead of the Sac mines is brought to this place; the troops at Belle Fontaine put sixty thotitand dol- lars in circulation annually. The settlers in the vicinfty on both sides of the river, repair to^this place as the best market for their piroduce, and to supply themtclves w>th such articles .as. they n^ need. •■^iW'''-''ii 'v The price of marketing doesiiot differ much from the towai of the westeiti eountty ; every thing appears t<> be apptvxin^* s^ VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. ing to che same standard. Game of all kinds is brought in by the neighbouring -Indians, or the poorer inhabitants, and sold for a mere trifle^; as venison, turkeys, geese, ducks, swans, prairie hens, &c. Upon the. whole, provisions i^re po higher than in the> townsofthe Ohio. '"'''' /i-.^' The' manners of the inhabitants are not different from thoso in other villages: we distinctly see the character of the ancient inhabitants, and of the new residents, and a compound of botV St. Louis,' howeverj w^^ always a place of more refinement and fashion, it is the residence of many genteel ffvmiliesf both French, aiid American. A few Anierican mechanics, \vho have settled here, within ^ short time, are great acquisitions to the place ; and there is still ample room for workmen of all kinds. There is a French school and an English one. ' . St. Louis, will prpbaoiy beconke one of those great rfeilervoirs pf the valley between the Rocky mountains and the Alleghany, from wjience merchandise will be distributed to an extensive country. It unites the advantages of the th^ee noble rivers, Mis- sissippi, Illinois and Missotiri. \Vheii their banks shall become the residence of millions, when flourishing towns shall arise, can^ we suppose that eVery vender of merchandise, will look to New Orleans for a supply^ or to the Atlantic cities I There must be a place of distribution, somewhere l^etween the mouth of the Ohio and the Missouri. Besides a trade tb the northern parts of ^ew Spsdn will be opened, and a direct com^uidiication io the East Indies, by way of the Missouri, may be mbre ths^n dreamt : in this, St. Louis will become the Memfihia of the Anietidan. Nile/^ -'y ■■ ST. GENEVlEVBj " Is ^ext in consequence t^ S.t> Louis. It is at present the prinr cipal deposit of tiiie lead, oflN^ine la Motte,,the Mine a fiurtoO} l^ew Di£gipgs>the iQines on Big ciyisp,^wi^ several pthers; and is the stpre-hpusevfrpfn'whe^xce tbpSjQ epgf^gpd v\ wor|(ing,the mines are supplied with a variety pf articles, .^hif m^a was . cpmmeuced about the fc^r ^I'f^^yoh i^aVs^ j^th Io uJ-k^ .»riT It ifi situated about ope n^^jl/Bffrom the Mississippi, betweeo 'IhQ two branches of a stream called Qabourie^ on a fl^t of aj^out TOWI^S & VILLAGES.-BOOK II. 135 one hundred acres, and something higher than the river bottom.' There is a second b-^nk about twenty feet higher than this, up' on which the town begin"- at present to extend ; this is merely a slip, however, and bounded by a third bank, eighty feet above the level of the river: there are also scattered houses for some dis* tance up each branch of the Gabourie. West of the town, and also north of the Gabourie, the country is high and somewhat broken. , The soil is a yellow clay ; in places strewed with horn stone, but produces gOod wheat. The timber, has been nearly all destroy- ed for Che use of the inhabitants. In front of the town, on the Mississippi, there is a fine bottom, commencing from the Ga- bourie, and extending eight or nine miles down the river; and for the greater part of that distance, three miles in Viridth. The common field under fence, contains sev^n thousand acres.'**!' There are six stores, and in the course of the present year, Iho imports might amount to one hundred and fifty thousand dollars. St. Genevieve is a rising town ; a greater number of buildings have been erected here than at St. Louis, and preparations are making for building a number more in the course of the next seiason. There are two brick yards. A very handsome edifice has been erected of limestone, on the hill, commanding an ele.. ^ant prospect of the river, the American bottom, and of the hills on the other side of the Kaskaskia. This building is intended as an academy, but unfortunately, those gentlemen who gener* ously undertook this work, have not been able fully to succeed^ from the want of proper support. The population of St. Genevieve including New Bourbon, amounts to 1,400. There is about the same proportion of slaves, as at St. Louis; the number of Americans is also about the same. There was formerly a village of Piorias below the town, but tliey abandoned it some time ago. * This appears aho to Lave been one of those spots pitched uj)- ;on by former and numerous nations of Indians as a place of resi« dence. In the bottom there are a number of large mounds.— Barrows, and places of interment, are every where to be seen. The moMth of 'ihe Gabourie is about one mile and an half jsboye tiie tov.n; it is the landing place and harbor of boats; wd 196 VIEWS OF L0U18IAKA, vhen the wuter is high, they can come up to the town, of ever^ \a the neighbourhood, there are several remarkable fouqr. tainS} which send forth copious streams of water. One about A mile distant) affords a considerable accession to tlie GabQurie^ and turns a quU a short distance below. The fountain itself, is truly beautiful ; after wandering for some time over arid and dry billsi we coi^e ^11 at oiice into a thick grove of oak, hickory and other trees, and descending a declivity, we discover the foun- tain, fifteen or twenty feet square, and as many in depth, enclus*. ed 4>n all sides, except the one from whence the stream issues, by masses of Living rock, and its glassy surface, siiaded with young trees and shrubs. Various beautiful creeping vines, with their flowers, soften the severity cf the frownbg rock, ai>d sport ii\ festoons woven by the iantastic hand of nature. I recollect ^ trifling incident, which occurred in one of my visits to this foun- tain, but which made an impression on my mind. I found a par-, ty of about Mxty Shawane^e warriors encamped near it i aftejtr some coversation with the chief, a good old man, and of a re« murkable fine figure; wby said he, does not some white mai^ build a house and settle hima«lf near this place ? but, continued the old chief, seemingly recollecting himself, perhaps some Manitou (spirit) resides here, and will not permit it 1 How siin- ilar is the action of the human mind in all countries, and in all ages* It se,em? to be a natun^l sentinient ,to attribute to whatev- or is extraordinary, the agency or control of some superior be- ing. The anient Greeks and Romans, in their highest stage of refinement* "Cttfijied it so ,far, i^ to have divinities for every foun- tain and riv«r.^ . ;St. Genevieve was formerly built imn;iediateLy qii the Missis* sippi, but the washing away of the bank, an^ the great flnod of If Q2 Cfanne' dea eauxj caused the inhabitants to choose a I)igh- er aitvation. The ruins of the old town may be still seen, and thejre are several orchards of £ne fruit yet remaining. The prUicipal employment of the inliabitauts is agriculture; ^t;tbe greater party are also more or less engaged in the lead mines. This is a career of industry open to all, and the youngs in ^setting oiit to do ^methbg for themselves, usually fl^^e TOmfB & VILLAGE9.»1S00K u. i^ tlidr first essay in this business. A number of the inhabitants are also employed as boatmen, for the purpose of conductinf^ voyages. There is some Indian trade, from the neighbouring Shawanese, l^iorias, and Delawares. There are but few mecha- nics, and these but indifferent. A chapel is erected here, at which the Rev. Mh Maxwell officiates. As the agriculture of St. Genevieve, is carried on more ex" ten&ivcly, than in any of the other villages, 1 shall take this op- portunity of giving a desrrintion of it. One fence encloses tht> Wh6le village field, and this is kept up at the common expense. The river side is left open, the steepness of the bank rendering any enclosure unnecessary. This Held is divided into a numbet 6f small lots, of an equal size; a certain number of arpents in front, and a certidn number in depth. The more wealthy pos- sess and cultivate several of these lots, while some of the poorer tiass do not own one entire. But nearly all the inhabitants liave a share in them; they were ceded by the Spanish govern- ment, as an appendage to the possession of every resident- er in the village. This mode has been practised from the earli;- est settlements on both sides of the Misussippi, and perhaps }iad its origin from necessary precaution against the Indianst Their agricultural labors commence in the month of April, when the inhabitants, with their slaves, are seen going and re- suming, each morning and evening, for eight or ten days, with their ploughs, carts, horses, kt. The ground is broken up with « kind of wheel plough, which enters deep into the soil. Corn, pumpkins, and spring wheat, compose the usual crop. It is now left entirely to nature, and no further attention is paid to it until harvest, when each villager, but without that mirth and jolliQr, which usually takes place on such occasions, in other countries, quietljT hauls in his own crop. There is a great contrast be- tween the lots cultivated by the Americans, and those of the -Creoles ; psdns vte taken to keep them clear of weeds, and this is rewarded by a crop of at least one third greater. In the rich alluvia, it is thought, that wheat sowed in the spring is best } it does not grow so rank, and is less apt to lodge or mil- dew. There is a kind of weed here resembling hemp, having ^ ff^Kse, vigorous stalk) and a strong but not disagreeable smeR^ ;t^ VIEWS OF LOmSI.VKA/ this* the inhabitants cut during summer, to feed their horses. If grows in the rich bottoms, and in great abundance through the common fields; cattle arc extremely fpnd of it. After the har- vest is completed, the barriers of the fields are opened, and alt the cattle of the villuge permitted to be turned in. Horses put into the field before this period, (for each one has generally a part of his lot in grass) are tied to long ropes, which are fasten- ed to stakes. , Besides the lots, in the great field, the principal inhabitants^ have of late years, opened plantations, within some miles of the town ; and the greater part of the stock formerly seen about this place* has been removed to the country farms: in consequence of wiiich, the passengers are enabled to go through the streets without danger of being jostled by horses, cows, hogs, and oxen, which formerly crowded tliem. 8T. CHARLES; ' As welt as the two places before described, is the seat of justice of the district bearing its name. It contains three hun- dred inhabitants, a considerable proportion of them Americans. There are two or three stores, which, besides supplying the country people of the neighbourhood, have Some trade with In- dian Or white hunters, in furs and peltries. But this is in a great m asure, the residence of that class of French inhabitants, lehose occupation is that of engageesf or boatmen. Several gen- teel families also reside here. The village is situated on the north side of the Missouri, ttrenty miles from the junction. It is built on a very narrow space, between the river and the blufT, admitting but one street a mile in length. A short distance below, the bottom becomes •wide ; the hills behind the village are extremely rough, and scarcely susceptible of tillage. The Missouri is yearly washing ■ away the ground on which this place staiids. The common fiefd i% situated two miles lower down* TOWKS & VILlAGlSS.— BOOiC H. I# ITBW MADRID,* The fteat of juslice of the district, and formerly Called, tjime tifiagreue. It is situated in 36* 34 N. long. 89* 20 W. Though in a low state of improTement at present, it ought to become im* portant. It will be the store-house of the produce of an exten- sive and fertile country i and from the Sti Francis and the lakes which lie S. W. it may derive important advantages. New Ma« drid was laid out twenty'-four years ago, by col. Geo. Morgan* on an extensive scale, and an elegant plan< It was chosen as one of the best situations on the river. The town contains four huA^ dred inhabitants, one third Americans, living in a scattered way* over a great space of ground. It is the residence of several ami-* able and genteel families, from whom, I acknowledge with plea- sure, to have received much kindness and hospitality. There is, however, a due proportion of the worthless and despicable part of society. At New Madrid, the Mississippi has assumed the shape of a half moon, in the hollow of which, the town stands. The bank is high, but the washing away has been astonishingly great* at least three hundred yards have disappeared. ^ Three forts, and a number of large and spacious streets have been taken awayy within these fifteen years. From the course which the river haa now assumed, it is probable that this will cease* and such is the character of this wonderful stream, that in a few years, New Madrid may be left far from its bank. * It might appear useless to insert this description } the town hav- ing been nearly destroyed by the earthquakef ; but it may be curioua to reoord what it once was. f We «re informed that the shocks at this place have entirely ceas* ed, and that this town, which had been almost depopulated, is af^ain be- ginning to be re-established. Where the town stood, the ground has sunk so much, that in the last flood it was entirely overflowed ; but, a short distance below, the ground which was before low, is now at least five feet above the highest water. Several lakes are now cornfields.— There are hopes that this beautiful district will soon regain iis former advantages. tm VIFAV8 OF LOUISIANA. At the upper end of the town there is a considerable streamy of which I have already spoken, and might, at most sj^sons, be navigated to its source ; at New Madrid it is called the Bayou St. Jolui^ and affords an excellent harbor. Below the town tlicre is a beautiful lake, six or ci^ht feet deep, with a clear sandy bottom, and communicutint* with the St. Francis, and the Mis- sissippi, in hi^h water. On the bank of this lake, about four miles from New Madrid, there is one of the largest Indian mounds in the western country : as near as I could compute, it is twelve hundred feet in circumference, and about forty in height^ level on tlie top, and surrounded with a ditch five feet deep and ten wide. In this neiglibourhood there arc traces of a great po- pulation. The country in the vicinity of New Madrid, is a vast plain of the richest soil, handsomely diversified with prairie and wood- land. There is not much business done at this place; two or three mercantile stores are estublislied, but not extensively ; yet I should think this, a situation extremely eligible for a person of enterprise. New Madrid is considered healthy, and from my own expe- rience, I am convinced of the justice of this character. There is nothing more delightful than a promenade in a summer evening, on, the smooth green along the bank. The climate is mild and agreeable ; in the hottest days of summer, a cool and refreshing breeze is felt from the river. The spring is compa- ratively early. I ate strawberries here the twentieth of April) and at St. Louis in June. New Madrid t --iserves to be noted for having the first gardens in the territory. ARKANSAS. This place is situated sixty miles up the river, and contains four hundred and fifty inhabitants; it has a few storesj and seems to be improving. , There is a considerable trade with the Osages up the Arkansas, and with the Indians, who live in the White river country. This is also a French establishment, and with about the same proportion of Americans as in the other towns. TOWNS & VILLAGES —BOOK IT, m CA/K GlRAEDEAVi ilie ^at of justice for the district of that name, and situated tliirty-five miles above the mouth of the Ohio. This town is en- tirely American, and built in their fushion. It is thriving fast: there are a number of good houses, several of them of brick. It contains about thirty dwellings, and thr^e hundred inha- bitants. The town is situated on a high bluflf, but the descent to the river is not difficult. From its situation, and the excellence of the Surrounding country, this town bids fair to become a flour- ishing place. Two stores are established here, though on a small scale. I have the pleasure of being acquainted with seve- ral amiable families. !xpe- here imer ktc is \\ and [mpa- ,pril, loted I»tain8 li mi Ihthe In the [, and lother BERCULANEUM, On the Mississippi, halfway between St. Louis, and St. Ge- nevieve. The situation of this place is extremely romantic ; at the mouth of the Joachin, and on a flat of no great width, between the river hill and second bank, while at each end, perp>endicular precipices, two hundred feet high, rise almost from the water's edge. It appears to be an opening for the admission of the Jo- achin to the Mississippi. Oii the top of each of these cliffs, shot towers Iiave been Atablished. The town contains twenty houses, and two hundred inhabitants ; here is a store, an excel- lent blacksmith, and a hatter. The country behind the town is hilly, but well timbered, and land good. Several fine mills have been erected in the neighbourhood of this place, and boat build- ing is carried on here. Carondelet, or Vuidepoche, is situated six miles below St. Louis~-218 inhabitants. Florissant on the Missouri, 270. Mine La Motte, 250 — and a number of other small villages. A village has lately been commenced at the mouth of the St. Frftncilr. 133 VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. CHAPTER VI. HISTORIC Al' CHARACTER OF THE AKCIENT INHABITANTS*^ CHANOE Oy GOVFHNMEMT. THERE is scarcely any thing more difficulty and consequent- ly more rare, than correct delineation of character :— This task is usually undertaken by friends or enemies, and the result is' either panegyrick or satire.-— Even amongst such as are unbi" assed, how few the happy copyists, who can paint nature with her own colors, so as to be recognised by every beholder I Conscious of this difficulty, I entertain humble hopes of sue* cess, in being able to satisfy the expectation and inquiries of the intelligent reader. And, particularly where there are no strik- ing and prominent features, but the traits of an infant colony de> licately marked. A colony will not remain long separated from the parent ■tock, until it exhibits a peculiar and distinct character. Climate, situation, and country, although not exclusively the agents in forming this character, must nevertheless, be admitted to have great influence. Nor do the manners of the parent country' con* tinue invariable ; other times, other men, other circumstanceti produce the most surprising changes, while the colony, beyond the sphere of their influence, retains its pristine customs and manners. The Spaniards of Mexico, are said to bear a stronger Resemblance to their ancestors of the fifteenth century, than to their present brethren of Old Spain :-<-The French inhabitants of the Mississippi, have little resemblance to the gay, and perhaps frivolous, Frenchmen of Louis the fifteenth and sixteenth, and still less to those who have felt the racking storm of the revo* lution. To the country on both sides of the Mississippi, the general name, J^es Illinoix^ was given* It was inhabited by a powerful Indian nation of that name, at present reduced to a handful of miserable creatures. After the discovery of the Mississippi, by Mons. Joliet aiid the priest Marquette, from Canada, a num* b«r of Canadian traders, about the year 1 680, settled in Kas* kaskia, a large Indian town. By degrees, a number of families trere induced io t^uit Canada} for a country represented as much ANCIENT INHABITANTS, 8cc.-B00K II. 13& more desirable. A monastery cf Jesuits was established here, which succeeded 'n convertint; a number of the Indians to Christianity. I am credibly informed) that they had at one time, five hundred catechumens In time, these people, as it has ever been the case, were found to degenerate and diminish, from their intercourse with the whites : and the French were left the ■possessors and proprietors of their village. About the beginning of the last century, the celebrated scheme of Lawj and Comfiany\ was set on foot, and supported by the high reputation for wealth and fertility, which Louisiana had already required. To further this delusion, it was represent- ed in still more glowing colors, and it became the paradise of Frenchmen. The Illinois was regarded as of immense impor- tance ) the attention of the nation was turned towards it, and not- withstanding the failure of Law's project, this remote colony Aourished surprisingly. Besides Kaskaskia, which became a considerable place, there were several large villages, a lucra- tive fur trade was carried on, and an extensive agriculture.— These settlements sent to New Orleans in one year, (1746) eight hundred thousand weight of flour. But, at this time thero was not one permanent establishment on the west side of the Mississippi, although resorted to by traders, and the lead mines were known and worked. Twenty-five or thirty years after the failure of Law, the French, with something more substantial in view, had formed the plan of securing the great valley of the Mississippi, and of connecting it with Canada ; immense sums of money were expended. Fort Ctiartres, which is said to have cost the crown, nine millions of livres, was built, and the village of Fort Chartres rose by its side ; but alas ! srch are the reverses of fortune, even in this newly peopled region, the gay and sprightly village has disappeared forever, and the fort is but a noble ruin. This fort was deemed an important one, at which there was stationed an officer of rank, with a suitable command. Much of the elegance and refinement of the officers was com- municated to the susceptible inhabitants. The war between France and England, which broke out about the year 1754, deprived France of her possessions in this parr of the world. In consequence of this, les IlUnoix epiperi- m yiBWS OF LOUISIANA. enced a sudden and rapid decay ; which was again accelerated by the conquest of general Clark for the United States, in 1779. The greater number of the wealthy and respectable inhabitants descended the Mississippi) and settled in New Or- leans, and the lower country. Others crossed the Mississippi, and established St. Louis and St. Genevieve. Scarcely any but natives of the country remained. The foreigners chiefly re- turned to the countries from whence they first emigrated. Such then, is the origin of the greater part of that class of the population of this territory, which I have denominated the an** cient inhabi^tanta. They are chiefly natives of the country ; but few families urcimmediately from France^ or oyen from New Qrlcana or Canada. In the character of these people, it must be remembered, that they are essentially Frenchmen ; but, without that restlessness* impatience and fire, which distinguishes the European. There is, even in iheir deportment, something of the gravity of thQ Spaniard, though gay, and fond of amusements. From the gen- ule and easy life which they led, their manners, and even lan- guage, have assumed a certain degree of softness and mildness : the word fiaisibley expresses this characteristic. In this remote country, there were few objects to urge to enterprise, and few occasions to call forth and exercise their energies. The neces- saries of life were easily procured, and beggary was unknown. Hospitality was exercised as in the first ages, for there were no taverns. Ambition soared far hence, for here there was no prey, fudges, codes of law, and prisons, were of little use, where such simpiicjity of manners prevailed, and where every one knew how far to confide in his neighbour. In such a state of things, to what end is learning or science \ The schools afforded but slender instruction ; the better sort of people acquired in them readingi writing, and a little arithmetic. The number of those who were lovers of knowledge, and made it a profession, was-small. From the habits of these people, it would naturally be expected, that they would have been unaccustomed to reason on political sub- jects; they were in fact, as ignorant of them, as children are of life and manners. These inhabitants were as remarkable for their tame and peaceable dispoaitioD) as the natives of France are for the reverset ANaeNT INHABITANTS, tkc-'BOOK II. m ' Amongst their virtues) vre may enumerate honesty and punc- tuality in their dealings, hospitality to strangers, friendship and affection amongst relatives and neighbours. Instances of abai>> donment on the female side, or of seduction, are extremely rare. The women make faithful and affectionate wives, but will not bo considered secondary personages in the matrimonial association. The advice of the wife is taken on all important, as well as on less weighty concerns, and she generally decides. In opposi- tion to these virtues, it must be said, that they are devoid of public spirit, of enterprise or ingenuity, and arc indolent and uninformed. They are jp^tholics, but, very far from being bigoted or su- per'ttitious, as some travellers have said. They were perhaps more strict observers, formerly, of the rules and discipline of their church, and of the different holy days in tlie calendar. Their /etest or celebration of these days, were considered, as the most interesting occasions ; the old and young engaged in them with the greatest delight, and they doubtless contribut- ed to their happiness. Of late, this attention to the ceremonies of their religion ii^ considerably relaxed, since other objects of pursuit and interest have been opened to their view- The ca^ tholic worship is the only one yet known in the territory, except in private families, and in a few instances of itinerant preachers. There was scarcely any distinction of classes in the society. The wealthy o;* more intelligent, would of course be considered as more important personages, but there was no difference clear- ly marked. They all associated, dressed alike, and frequented the same ball room. They were in fact nearly all connected by the tics of affinity or consanguinity : and so extensive is it, that I have seen the carnival, from the death of a common relation^ pass by cheerless and unheeded. The number of persons ex- cluded was exceedingly small. What an inducement to com- port ones self with propriety and cU cumspection I The same in- terest at stake, the same sentiments that in other countries in- fluence the first classes of society, were here felt by all its mem* bers. Perhaps as many from unmerited praise have been form- ed into valuable characters, as others from having been unjust- ly despised have become truly despicable. /» 136 VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. Their .wealth consisted principallyin personal property, Iand« were only valuable when improved. Sloven were regarded Id the light of bien fonder, or real property* and in fact, as the high- est species. Lead and peltry were frequently used as the cir- culating medium. ' There was but little variety in their employments. The most enterprising and wealthy were traders, and had at the same time trifling aJssortments of merchandise for the accommodation of the inhabitants, but there were no open shops or stores;! as in the United States. There were no tailors or shoemakers; such as pursue these occupations at present, are from the United States. The few mechanics, exercising their trades, principally carpen* tcrs and smiths, scarcely deserved the i(kme. The lead mines, I have already observed, engaged a considerable number. The government gave employment to but few, and those principally at St. Louis. By far the greater proportion of the population was engaged in agriculture ; in fact, it was the business of all, since the surplus produce of the country was too inconsiderable to be depended upon. A number of the young men for some time, embraced the employment of boatmen, which was by no means considered degrading; on the contrary, it was desira- ble fc V* a young man to have it to say, that he had made a voy- age in this capacity : and they appeared proud Of the occupa- tion, in which they certainly are not surpassed by any people in dexterity. It is highly pleasing to see them^ exerting them- selves, and giving encouragement to each other, by their cheer- ]ngsong»~ ' ' . *^ ■ I ■ auJuctis spumant freta versa lacertU. Infindunt pariter sulcos ; totumque dehiscit Convulsum remis, rostrisque tridentibuti aequor. But this occupation, amongst many other changes, has been teduced to the same footing as with the Americans. Arising jprobably from the simple cause* of there having arisen objects '•f more generoas emuliation. What is some^vhat strange, there were no domestic manu- fikCtures among them ; the spinning wheel and the loom were alike unknewn. So deficient were they in this respect, that aU ANC*rNT INHABITANTS, &c,— BOOK U, 137 though possessed of numerous herds, they were not even ac- quainted with the use of the chum, but made their butler by beating the cream in a bowl, or shaking it in a bo^ :Ie. Their amusements, were cards, billiards, and dances : thia last of course the favorite. The dances, were cotillions, reels* and sometimes the minuet. During the carnival, the balls fol* low in rapid succession. They have a variety of pleasing cus^ toms, connected with this amusement. Children have also their balls, and are taught a decorum and propriety of behavior* wh:ch is preserved through life. They have a certain ease and freedom of address, and are taught the secret of real politeness* aelf "denial i but which by the apes of French manners, is mista- ken for an adjected grimace of complaisant regard, and a profu- sion of bows, scrapes and professions. Their language, every thing considered, is mofe pul'e than might be expected ; their manner of lengthening the sound of words, although languid, and without the animation which the French generally possess, is by no means disagreeable. They have some new words, and others are in use, which in France have become obsolete. Tn their persons, tl ire well formed, of an agreeable plea- sant countenance ; indicating cheerfulness and serenity. Their dress Wi\s formerly extremely simple; the men wore a blanket coat, of coarse cloth or coating, with a cape behind, which, could be drawn over the head ; from which circumstance it was called a capote. They wore a blue handkerchief on their heads : but no hats, or shoes, or stockings ; moccasins, or the Indiaa sandai.H, were used by both sexes. The dress of the females was likew7.se simple, and the variations of fashion, few : though they were dressed in a much better taste than the other sex. These manners will soon cease to exist, but in remembrance and de- scription : eveiy thing has changed. The American costume is generally introduced, amongst the first families, and amongst the young girls and young men universally. I never saw any where greater elegance of dress than at the balls of St Louis. We btill see a few of both sexes in their ancient habiliments; capots^ moccasins, blue handkerchiefs on tlie head, a pipe in the mouth, aod the hair tied up in a long queue. These people cx,hibjt a s m VIEWS OF LOUISIANA! Striking difference when compared with the unconquerable per" tinacity of the Pennsylvania Germans, who adhere so rigidly to the customs, manners, and language of their fathers. A few years have efiected more change with the inhabiler.ts of this territory than has been brought about amongst the Germans in fifty years. The government^ of the province, though a mixture of tie civil and military, was simple. Each district had its commandant) or syndic. These were the judges in civil matters under a cer- tain amount, and had also command of the militia. They receiv- ed their appointment from the tntendant at New Orleans, to whom there was an appeal) from their decisions, and where were also referred such matters as exceeded their jurisdiction. Arbi- trators under the direction of the commandant, in some degree obviated his want of authonty. The mode of proceeding is sin- gular enough ; the party complaining obtained a notification i'rom the commandant to his adversary of the complaint, accompani- ed by a command from the commandant, to render the com- plainant justice. If this had no effect he was notified to appear before the commandant on a particular day, and answer the com- plaint; and if this last notice was neglected, a sergeant) with a file of men, was sent to bring him. The Ueut. governor, who resided at St. Liouis, was the com- mander of che militia, and had a general superintendance of the public works and property, but I do not know the exact extent of his powers. The laws of Spain were in force here : but it does not appear that any others had been in practice, besides those, which related to lar«d« and the municipal arrangements. Laws regpalating civil contracts, are so intimately interwoven with the manners of a people, that it is no easy task to separate them : h6re la coutume de ParU^ the common law of France) was the system by which their contracts were governed. The judges, in administering justice according to the American ju- risprudence, are often perplexed by the article of Session, which provides, that respect should be paid to the usages and customs of the country. A few troops were kept up in each district, throughout the province, but too intonsiderable to afford mudi protection to the inhabitants. This country being so remote ANCIENT INHABITANTS, be.— BOOK II. m from the main possessions of Spain, was not regarded with much attention, when we consider its natural importance. The rod of government was so light as scarcely to be felt; the worst of the governors, were content, with imposing on their king, by exor- J^itjint charges for useless fortifications, or for supplies never fur- nished. I have heard of some oppressions practised on stran- gers, but I. have been informed by a number of Americans set- tled here before the change, that the Spanish government treat- ed them with particular attention and respect. I believe, instan- ces of individual oppressions on the part of the governors, were few: but this is lo be attributed, not to the government) but to the state of society. The present government appears to be operating a general change: its silent but subtle spirit is felt in every nerve and vein, of the body politic. The United States, acting upon broad prin- ciples, cannot be influenced by contemptible partialities between their own sons and their adopted children. They do not want co- lonies—they will disdain to hold others in the same sti^e* which they themselves so nobly despised. They are in fact, both natives of the same land, and both can claim Freedom as their birth right. It requires many hands to work the complicated machinery of our government ; the object of which, is to enable men, as much as possible, to govern themselves. Each of the principal towns, has its ofHcers, its legislature, in which the ancient in- habitants have the principal voice. They have been placed on the bench, they are jurors and magistrates ; commissions are distributed, which, although not regarded of much impottanc^ in time of peace, yet they make a man feel that he counts some- thing in his country; for instance, in the militia, there are gene- rals, colonels, majors, captains, &c. Thus, one might suppose that their manners and habits of thinking were gradually pre- paring for the reception of a free government. The Americans have communicated to ttiem, their industry and spirit of enter- prise, and they in turn, have given some of their more gentle and amiable customs. Upon the whole, the American manners, and even language, begin to predominate The young men have al- ready been formed by our government, and those growing up will have J^nown no other. A lingular change h«» taken places 140 VIEWS OP LOUISIANA* ivhich, one would think, ought not to be the result of a transition from a despotism to a republican government: luxury has in- creased in a wonderful degree, and there exists something like a distinction in the classes of society. On the other hand) rooro pains are taken with the education of youth } some have sei\t their sons to the seminaries of the United States, and all seem linxious to attain this desirable end Several of the young men |iave entered the army of the United States, and have discover- ed talents. The females are also instructed with more care* and the sound of the piano is now heard in their dwellings for the $rst time* Versonal property, a few articles excepted, h»8 fallen on an HTcrage, two hundred per cent, in value, and real property risen at least five hundred- Pnt the prices of merchandise had no proportion to the price of produce. Five bushels of corn were formerly necessary for the purchase of a handkerchief, which can now be had for one, The cultivators raised little pro- duce beyond what was necessary for theii own subsistence, it was therefore held at high prices, but fell far short of the present proportion to the price of imported articles ; the petty trade was the principal dependence for these supplies. Their agriculture was so limited, that instances have been known, of their having been supplied by the kip^, on the failure of their crops from the inundation of the Mississippi. The low value of lands natu- rally arqse fron^ the great quantities lying waste, and unoccu- pied, in proportion tp the e3(tent of the population, or of its pro* bable increase, and the consequent facility with which it could be obtained. Xent was scarcely known, It may be questioned) whether the poorest class has been benefited by the ch^ge, Fearless of absolute want) they always lived in a careless and thoughtless manner ^ nt present the greats er part of them obtain a precaripus subsistence. They general^ ly possess ^ cart) a horse of two, a sm^I stock of cattle, and cul- tivate small plots of ground. At St. |!.iOuis they have more em- )>loyment than in the other villages; they make hay in the prai- Hes) haul wood for sale, and ^re employ^^i to 'io trifiing jobs in town; some a^e boatmen or patrons. At St. Genevieve, they de- pend more upon their agriculture, and have portions in the great ANCIENT INHABITANTS, kc— BOOK 11. W^ field, but this will probably Hoon be tuken from them by the greuter industry of ihe Americnn cuitivutors, who are couliuu* ally purchttsingi and who can give double the sum for rent; they are sometimes-employed in hauling lead fi*om the mines, but it will not be sufficient for their support. A number have remov* ed to the country, and, in imitation of the Americans, have set>^ tied down on public lands, but here they cannot expect to remain long. Those who live in the more remote villages, are less af- fected by the change, but there is little prospect of their be- ing better situated. But few of them have obtained permission, froAi the commandant, to settle on lands; in fact, there was no safety from the depredations of tiie Indians, in forming estublish* ments beyond the vilUges. Land was only valued for what it could produce, and any one could obtain as ' i as be chose to cultivate. Until possession was taken of the country by us, there was no safety from the robberies of tlie Osage Indians. That impo- litic lenity, which the Spanish and even the French govcrnmedt have manifested towards them, instead of a firm though just course, gave rise to the most insolent deportment on their part. % have been informed by the people of St. Genevieve, who suf- fered infinitely the most, that they were on one occasion left witliout a horse to turn a mill. The Osages were never followed to any great distance or overtaken ; this impunity necessarily en- couraged them. They generally entered the neighbourhood of the villages, divided into small parties, and during the night, stole in and carried awuy every thing they could find, frequent- ly breaking open stables, and taking out the horses. After unit- ing at a small distance, their place of rendejsvous, they marched leisurely home, driving the stolen horses before them, and with- out the least dread of being pursned. They have not dared tb act in this manner under the present government ; there have been a few solitary instances of robberies by them, within these three or four years, but they are sufficiently acquainted with the Americans to know, that they will be instantly r>*irsued, even into thpir villages and compelled to surrender. The following well attested &ct, will serve to show the insolence of the Osages under the former government. A young couple on their way 142 VIEWS 0P1.0U18IAKA.- from the settlement^ just then formed on B\ff river, to St Gene* Tieve, accompanied by a. number of their friends, with the inten* ikm of hiiving ttie raatrimoniat knot tied by the priest, were met by sixty Osages, robbed of tiieir liorseB,and the whole par- ty actually stripped ! What serves, however, to lessen the atro* tsity of these outrages, it has been remarked, that thsy are never imown to take away the lives of those who fall into their hands, TIm insolence of the other nations who came openly to their Tillages, the Piorias, Loups, Kickapoos, Chickasas, Cherokeesi •tec. is inconceivable. They were sometimes perfectly masters of the villages, and excited general consternation. I have seen the houses on some occasions closed up, and the doors barred by the terrified inhabitants ; they were not always safe even there. It is strange how these people have entirely disappeared with- in a few years, there are at present scarcely a sufficient number to supply the villages with game. The historical epocha of this territory, are few and simple.. "Shortly after the first formation of the settlement, it was ceded -by the treaty of '63; the secret treaty between Spain and France of 1 762, was not known, and perhaps never would have 4>een, if France had proved successful in her contest with Bri- tain. The history of Louisiana, generally, until it came into the hands of the United States, is the history of this territdry. By the treaty of Ildefonso, of Oct 1 800, this country was reced- ed by Spain to France ; the situation of France at that period not permitting her to take possession, she ceded it to the U. "States. The fear of its foiling into the hands of her enemy was a strong inducement. On the part of the United States, possession WiS taken of this territory in 1804, by capt. (now major Stoddard) who was our 'first civil commandant. In pursuance of the act of congress^ which separated it from the district of Orleans, with the name of the district of Louisiana, it was placed for the moment, under ihe government of the territory of Indiana. Governor Harrison, of that territory, accordingly, organized the government, and put it in motion In 1805, it was erected info, a territorial go- vernment similar to that of the other territories^ by the name ^f AWCIENT INHABITANTS, &e— BOOR ft 141 the Territory of Louisiana.* For these things I must riefer the reader to the different acts of congress on the subject.. Two important treaties were formed with the Indians^ one with the Sacs and Foxes, and the other with the Great and Little Osages. If I am usked) whether the ancient inhabitants are more Contented^ or happy, under the new order of things, or have rea- son to be so, I should consider the question a difficult one, and answer it with hesitation. It is not easy to know the secret sentiments of men, and happiness is a relative term. It is truo) I have heard murmurings against the present government) and something like sorrowing after that of Spain, which I rather at' tributed to momentary chagrin, than to real and sincere senti- ment; besides, this generally proceeds- Irom those who were wont to bask in the sunshine of favor. Vet I have not observ- ed those signs which unequivocally mark a suffering and unhap- py people. The principal source of uneasiness arises from the difficulties of settling the land claimed by the commissioners on the part of the United States. The principal inhabitants have lost much of that influence which they formerly possessed, and are superseded in trade and in lucrative occupations by stran*' gers; their claims therefore constitute their chief depend-ince. The subject of those claims embraces such a variety of topicSy th^t it is not possible to give any correct idea of them in this cursory view. It is a subject on which the claimants are feel- ingly alive. This anxiety is a tacit compliment to our govern- ment, for under the former, their claims would be scarcely worth attention. The general complaint is, the want of sufficient liberal- ity in determining on the claims. There is perhaps too great ^ disposition to lean against the larger concessions, some of which ftre certainly very great, but when we consider the trifling value * of lands under the Spanish goveriiment, there will appear less reason for this prepossession against them. For many reasons^ it would not be to the honor of the United States, that too much strictness should be requirsd in the proof, or formalities P * The territory of Orleans has now become the *' atate of Louisiana'* and the «• territory of Lvuitiana*' has been changed to the ♦•territory of the ]Vlis^oHr^.< 144 VIEWS OP LOUISIANA. ^ title, particularly of a people who came into their power uritb- out any purticipution on their part, and without hnving beet? con'^ulted. Six years have passed away without the final adjust- ment of the claims, and even those that have been decided upon^ will ^ive rise to lawsuits ; it is probable there will be as copious a harvest of these as ever was furnished by any of the states. The lower class have never been in the habit of thinking be- yond what immediately concern themselves; they cannot there- fore, be expected to foresee political consequences. They were formerly under a kind of dependence, or rather vassalla}]:e, to the great men of villages, to whom they looked up for their support and protection. Had they been more accustomed to think it possible, that by industry it was in their power to become rich, and independent also, the change would have been instantly felt in their prosperity. Bui. they possess a certain indifference and apathy, which cannot be changed till the present generation shall pass away. Tlicy are of late observed to become fond 6f intoxicat- ing liquors. Th^re is a middle class, whose claims or pos^^es- sions were not extensive, but sure, and from the increased value of their property, have obtained since the change of government) a handsome competence. They, upon the whole, are well satis- fied ; I have heard many of them express their approbation of the American government, in the warmest terms. They feel and speak like freemen, and are net slow in declaring, that formerly the field of enter'>rise was occupied by the monopolies of a feW) and it is now open to every industrious citizen. There are some things in the administration of justice, which they do not yet perfectly comprehend ; the trial by jury, and the multifarious forms of our jurisprudence. They had not been adcustomed to distinguish between the slow and cautious ad- vances of ev^n-handed justice i and the despatch of arbitrary pow- •r.* In their simple state qf society, when the subjects of liti^-a- tion were not of great value, the administration of justice might Ue speedy alid simple ; but they ought to be awnre, that when a • Some of the more important laWstiits, hdWever, where more exten- sive bribery could be carried on, are known to have slept for fifteen ANClENt iNrtADlt ANTS, &c.-^teOOK II. iH society becomes extensive, and its occupations, relationa and in* terests, more numerous, people less acquainted with each othetf the laws nust be more complex. The trial by jury, is foreign to the customs and manners of their ancestors ; it is therefore not to be expected that they should at once comprehend its util- ity and importance; ' The chief advantaged whidh adcrU^d from the change of go- vemment, may be summed up in a few words. The inhabitants derived a security from the Indians i a ihore ettensive field) and a greater reward was offered to Industry and enterprise} specie became more abundant* and merchandise cheaper.-^ Landed property was greatly enhanced in value. In opposition, it may be said, that formerly they were more content, had less anxiety ; there was more cordiality and friendship, living in the utmost harmony, with scarcely any clashihg interests. This per- haps, is not unlike the notions of old people, who believe that in their early days every thing was more happily ordered. The idea of their becoming extinct, by dissolving before a people of a different race, anri of losing their moeura cherieaf might excite unhappy S'^nsatiuns. Already the principal vil- lages look like the towns of the Americans. Are not the cus- toms and manners of our fathers, and of our own youth, deal' to us all ? Would it not fill our hearts with bitterness, to se« them vanish as a dream ? Sentiments like these, doubtless, sometimes steal into their hearts. They awake, and their moms has disappeared. But is it likely that this state of socikity could have beeh of long continuance I The policy which had been commenced of encouraging American settlers, would by this time have over- whelmed them with a torrent of emigration. Isolated as they were, they could not have withstood this accuniulating wave of population. Had they b^^.en transferred to France, they would have suffered from exactions and conscriptions ; had they re- mained attached to Spain, Nvhat miseries might not have assail- ed them from the convulsec state of the Spanish monarchy !— And is it nothing to exchanf ,e the name of colonists, Creoles, for that of AMERICANS, for tha. of a citizen of an independent state, where they can aspire to the highest employments and honors I t M» VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. T^ve ftre «oid«i who cioi feel wlai it U to be exalte4 U^^tbe di|^ DUy pf freemen ; to the Uum tfid igooUe rmmI wluch Mnnot up^ preciMtc thie bleniing, my wriiioge ivr« npt uddreseed' I/yuisianir •IM* you huve now become truly AnerictAa; never will yuii agtiin bo tnmefurred from one netion to another} ir %ov ask BVBR SOLD AOAIM, IT WILL IB VOft BLOOO. At the eMiQe timoi lai ut ullowt tor thoM emotions whiob must ngturelly be fek. Like two strenma thet 0ow to ei^b qtber from remote tmd distant climes, although at langth, ineludeil in the flame channcK it is not all at once thut they will unUt iknt eoo^ tributaiy watersi anU mingle int^ on#. CHAPrER VII. LEAS MINBS III THB DISTBieT OV ST. «BNBVIBTII*^MOPB OF MiNiMO— f^ovcB* See. THE different mines, or digging*^ as they are commonly called, are scattered over the greater part of this district. It is nut known with certainty, to what distance the mineral extends west and sotith, or towards the Mississippi.* The Mine It Bur- ton, about forty mlies west of St. Cenevlevc, may be considered the centre of those which are prcfttubly worked. These nunes have been known for a great many years; for tlie discovery would be made, as soon as the country could be traversed; the ore being visibk in the ravines washed by Tains, and in the beds of rivulets. The first diggings were made by a man of the name of Renault, and so extensively, tliat tbe present are only following up the old one.f * On the Osage rWer, and in the country watered by White river, I am informed by huntew, that lead ore ii Amnd in surprising quantl« ties, even en the sui4kee of the ground. f See Abby Baynal— ** To give the greater wciglit to this false re* port, which had already n^ained sc "nuch credit, a number of miners tvf re nent over to work these mines, which were imagined so valuable, with a body of troops to defend them.*^ USAO MINRt, M^-BOOK If. Mr Th« biTAoot Mi»9is»ippt Companft w«t founded piiacapKl^ upon ttie mtppoMd w«tikiif in minemlf of Um mora |ir«clu«i kindit b LoouMmtt ciid it «m nccesMrf t» do MMcthiiigt » giro it an iip(>earMioe of ■erioUMieit. Renault ituM t\mrth^% •em, it is Mid, with Ste hundrad men to icttrcli for minende. TMI number and great extent of these diggings attest the aasMiiitl^ •C ids researches. Perhaps, Renault not being able to tnd goldi or stiver ore, sudicient to rewart. his lubof , turned Ms attention to smelt^ing lead } and there is reason to believ« Ihol tovy greil quanuties were made. But after the fiiilure of the compnny bttfiife iiientton«(l, ft does not appear that the lead mines were much attended to; not eren after the crowing of the French settlements to the West* em side of the Mississippi, and the establishment of St. Oene» vieyc. The load made before the change of governmehtt wuh not a tenth of what is smelted now, aMd the tahie scarcely a third. The obieot of this ▼tew, is to give some account of the dif- ferent mines, the manner of working them, their pit>dtK«, Ut,^ 1. Whal is called a dtorsvc^y, bf those engaged ht workbtg the mine^ is, when any one happeni upon an extetisire body of ore. This is made, by digging sof«ral heffes or pifl, ftvt or tik feet deop, iii some spovsupposid to contain otPe, and if a emiihldw rablo quantity is at once found, the place Is called a «Hseotery ; bat if only a few pounds, it is abandoned, lut the tttt Is, that ther* are few placee, throughout the mine traet, in which such disob^ series cannot be made, though perhaps, With diffVrem degreefe of labor, tterend are mude evory season, and each cantlnuek for a time in rogue, and the miners flock to it from all the others, until the report aprcade Of tho discovery Of some new spot, where tho ore is found in still greatsr abundance, and procured with more ease ; to this pUce they are again attracted A dinb- •trtf it at lei^h ttxed upon, widch obtdins the prcfereneo througltout the rest of the season. A discovery is sometimes ptti>lished when there Is not much to warrant it, but the number of |)ersons drawn to the place, make one in I'ealhy S. The ore is most commonly found in the slopes, near tivu* lets, in a clay of a deep rod color { fre*4ising con- templation of the shining niineral, his riches. In the rqck there appears tp be no regular yeiqs; the ore occupies the accidental ^s:)ur^^ a^ i^ the o^se generally in lead nvbes- {jeads, (or loads) fire the ^mailer j^ssures thatconnept with the larger, wh^ch are (Called hy the n^iacrs, cqvet. The ore is what is called potter's pre, or galena, and has a broad shining grain ; but there is also, what is called grfiyel ore, from being found in small pieces in gravel; ^nd that kind qf ore called 7?oa'«, being forced in large Irregular, but unconnected masses, The first kind is the most to be depended on } the uncertainty pf the floats, and the trouble of smelting the grave) ore, render both of less consequence.*— Xhe pptter's ore, or galena, has always adhering to it, a sparry patter, M^hiqh thp n^iners call tijf, and which requires to be se- parated \yith small picks made for that purpose : this operatios is called gleaning the pre. Th^ Qoats have no tiif, and are th^ inost easily s|nelted> 3. X he ipode of working the mines is exceedingly simple. ^The word diggings^ by whic^ , they are known, very well desig* 'p^tes the fipp^aranpe pf the^? plape^i pits, and heaps pf clay t&AD MINES, &c.— BOOK U. 4» thrvtm out of them, covering sometimes fifty «creB or more,—- With two or three exceptions} there is scarcely , any place which might be termed mining. . There is but one sh^, which is at the Mme i Burton, and sunk by Moses Austin. The miners usually work them upon their own at^Sbunt* and dispose of their ore to the smelters: there are some, however, who hirf hands by the month, or employ sUves. But, experience has shewn that it is best for the interests of both the digger and the smelter to pursue the first mode; from the chance to th» one of fidling upon a good body of ore, and to the other of the general uncertainty ; the keeping a number of persons in con- stant pay for a length of time before he would be remunerated by a profitable discovery. If mining were carried on in a proper manner, the case would be different ; the profits might then be . susceptible of calculation, but this scratching the surface of tho earth cannot be attended with certainty. To find a large body of ore, so ne^r the surface, although not.unfrequent, yet cannot be depended upon; it is little better thyan a lottery. The miners have a variety of rules amongst themselves, to prevent disputes in diggings. Each one takes a pole, and measures off twelve .feet in eyery direction from the edge; the pits seldom exceed eight or ten feet in diameter. He is not permitted to undermine farther than his twelve feet, but must dig a new pit if the ground be not occupied. The only instruments are a pick, wooden sho- vel, and a sledge hammer, to break rocks. The ore delivered at the pit, sells from twenty to twenty-five dollars per thousand lbs. A digger will somedmes raise two thousiuid in one day, but notwithstanding, these people do not grow rich faster than their neighbours. What is easily eai'ned is carelessly spent; and be- sides, it often happens that the miner w^U work for months with- out making a cent, before he has the luck of lighting on this treasure. It sometimes happens that he will quit in despair, a pit at which he has been laboring for months, while another -)eaps in, and after a few hours work, falls upon a body of ore that would have rewarded the labors of the first. The appearance of ore in a pit which has been the work of a few days, is fre- quently such as to enable him to sell it for four or five hundred dollars. This kind of gaining, for it scarcely deserves any othep tm views ot LOimtAt^At mttktt ^ftfkrilM ttt s^t industry and sailfefactfiiti In Oic mtoerti Th« cdHMuM Mretth of exfiecttttiMi in whith tHe mind i» kept, Ijlveft a vest tb theif Ittiors. -4. Tfa«^af«l«M iAOd« <]f stntUiflfi: in wtt pMVttfe tlie grtat t- %uiK)«tic««rihe«ii(«i Theft ift but One regular ftirtKttie, t&)c rcR ii^e of a tctnpoimry «iid ftlmple tonatrootioA. The inoM comtDon tre built on ^iho declivity ^ some Mli, itith stonee^ opeti at the tots and trith fth M«h beittw. thFe« large togs about Ibur feet wide, so «b to fli the farnaise^ t^ rolled ifi, MoaUer pieeev of vrood ^oed round) and the ore then heaped up In letige lumps ; fii^ is Bet to it in the evenings and by the next mottling there will be a wkflkcient t{uantlty of the melted lead in the little reaervoilr Of hole, scravehed in the earth before the trch, to commente the vperjiHion of pouring it into moulds to form pigs. There «ro usually severel of theee furnaces joined together. About sis thou* sand lbs. of oi« are put into eaich,Bnd the ^rst smelting produces ifOper eent> besideB leating e quantity of scorl or scorched ore. The aBhe«) which contain particles of ore and scori, are wash- M, and smelted in a furnace of a different construction^ and often y:cM twenry<>fiv« or thirty per cent more. The ore smelted in this ru<}*^ Way, ^.uay be safely eoni^ered as yielding seventy^fito per cent. There remains e dark green aubstentsc called slag, which on late examinaUon, is thought still to retain a proporti^ of lead worth pursuinc^. There is no process of pounding or washing, except at the air furnace. The three modes of smelt- ing, to wit, the 9fienjumatti the nth/umttce, and the ur furnace, (belonging to Mr. Austin*) hate all been introduced unce the Americans took possession of the country. The Creoles never smelted any other way than by throwing the lead on log heaps. Each of the diggings hap its smelting furnace, and the Ore is ■melted on the spot. The business of smelting is considered unhealthy, but that of mining remarkably the reverse. This un- healthiness arises fhim the fumes of the furnace, m which there are quantities of arsenic and sulphur. Animals rused about the furnace are frequently poisoned, by licking the ore, or even the •tones. Dogs and Cats, and even puultryi are se^n to &11 down suddenly and die. L^D 14IKRS. 8M.-rMQR H. Ul 8»n»g takeo thit fMtral view, of xht minmi tkeir ttroiUlfi«, Sio. I shAll procA^BU to detcrib* ihe differcot diggbtgtit more mio* tii«lir. i have e)tewher« obMnred) tbat tbejr are scattered over a tmct of couatry about aixtjr miles in length and twenty^five in breadth} many of those in vogue a few years ago, are now aban« doned* for new dtscoveiies. Tbe appeiM^ance of the diggmga which I have before partly described, is lil^e that of small vUla^ ges, consisting of a collection of little cabins or huts. The (Ks» tande from Mine la Mottc, to the Riohwood mines, the one on the Sl Francis, and the other near the Maramek, is about sixty miles; and from Fourche CfMirtois, west of the Mine i Burtoct (which I have considered as the centre) to the mines nearest the Miausum>i, is about twenty-five miles. There ia no doid>t but thai mines equally good as any that are wrought may be found out of this tract in every direction; even within a few miles of the Mississippi. Not more than four miles from ttiat river, be- tween col. Hammond's farm and Herculaneum, I picked up in the road, a large lump of ore, which had been washed out by run a short tii)»e befipre. UIVM A «UItTOH| Is situated on a handsome stream* a branch of Qlg river, and large enough to turn a mill the whole year. The village, which is much superior to those whi^h are formed near the diggings, is built on either side of it. The diggings t- ytend around it iix every direction, but the principal, which are called the Citadel I^ig^ingSf are immediately west, on a high prairie. They occu- py about two hundred acres. The surface of the ground haa been tolerably well searched ; and very great quantities of U»df from the 0r9t discovery pf this place to the present tim^, have been made : it will now be necessary to sink into the bowels of the earth before much more c{in be done : this place has been nearly ^Lbandoned by the common diggers. A ^haft, and the firs( known in this country, has been sunk by Mr. Austin, on a part which falls within his concession. It is about eighty feet in deptb,t and drifts, in various directions, extend a considerable distance. Twenty handS) might work here at present to advantage, and 153 VIEWS OF LOUI8U17A. ': with sure prospect of profits. They aro not yet incommoded bf the intrusion of the water* owing to the height of their situationi /The situation of this village is pleasant, there are some bwd* some dwellings; the inhabitants, about twenty families, turn their attention to agriculture. The surrounding country, al« though broken in many parts, yei affords a great deal of fine landx the soil, as is general throughout the mine tract, is of a deep red, and supposed to be principally produced by the de- compoution of pyrites, which are known to be a manure. Col< Perry shewed me a field in which wheat had been sown for twelve successive years, and no apparent diminution in the proA duce. ,u ^yew Diggings, about two miles east of the Mine i Burton $ they were opened about the year 1 806 : and from the fame which they acquired, drew the miners from nearly all the other mines. It is thought, that during the year, in which ihese were work* ed, more lead was made, than has been since, in any one year throughout the mines. For two or three years past, until the {Present season, these diggings were almost neglected. They are now wrought by several gentlemen with hired hands and slaves. They work in a few pits that had already been sunk to a conuderable depth, but had been relinquished on account of the water; this difficulty has been obviated by machinery.-— There are several farms around it. AUne Arnault : north of the Mine fl Burton about six milesj is situated upon a branch of the Mineral Fork, a large creek.—- It has not been wrought, for many years, but a new discovery made within a short distance of it, is very flattering. The ad> jacent country consists of rugged hills, and one might almost fah.- cy himself in the Allegany mountuns. Mltiott*8 Diggihgsy Old Mnes, and the minea of Belle Pon- taine, may be considered under the same head : in half a day one may easily visit them all. Elliot's diggings have been worked for several years, by the proprietors, and to advantage. The old mines, for three or four years have been entirely neglected : the land is good, and there is a little settlement of twenty or thirty industrious yeople who cultivate it. These mines are from six 'to. twelve miles from the Mine i Burton. Hfown'ii Diggings are i^D AfiKBS kc^doOE it l>oinmce of tie diggbg, — fl^^r ^^ "»*>i"«l the t^. «i«« of U.. „.!..„ .?o.h*^rra"Cth; r '".' '" •*' "^""^ «• "r oAe«. They „, ritolwd r.f '"'"^ " P~«'^'r river, ".d.b.mtwLr-fir.^ulT'*"' • "•»" "'•'»''• «f BiJ . "-« course of .he pre«„, ^J' "t" P"" '^ ">« "te.. in nule. from 8t Genevieve J^I'. ' "* '"'"•'«' '»«»-«« ■»*" « -Aw, on Bi» ri ..^ P-wlucUTe: "<1 wmewh.. further fror'st'o" ""? """ ■'^"'' ^HfStog^ *ave been e^pio^ed he„:«rL?::r ^ """^ ''""»»* -.. ..r^n. whtct «ut „.: t 'r "•: ?'• "'^'" ""^ «» • ■»id ha. been con.unUy wn,u»M f ' " ""* "^ ">« •'""t* -iderah,. ,u„,^ evInT^f pHft^'l''?^""" fhe distance is about thirtrtoit,. r . *°^' "^ mining.-. d'scoveries. There a*e .i,„ „" T '■■• <^<'noi,, are ne* TheBigriTefrZ.r ''*""'^'«"»«te. " "ver i. long, bu, extremeTytold T^*^ ' t *^' '^^^ % of two hnnd«d miles, from^s^ ' ' ^ ""^'"y""'*!* .hon -If int. the Ma«m.k, aTd 1^71 ':""* *' '""""e" it- »i•» neighborhood, both bott"mrd J^l "7 '^'" '"*"' '""O ^ nerall^ . thing somewhat uT«,„ j r^"""' **' ™"« "^^ f^ *dap«d .o agHcuKu,*. I^o "11" "T "" """'""• » "' * •«fed, possessing in grerahtrr' J^ "•'^ Ple>.tifu% *.. W»s and ri,„le,^^ *""' '*"*'''»« «V »•« deli. htfol i^ '■ ^ifr 4.:. J .^ ^ ■.■•••■. Xf ' ' lU VIEWS OF LOmSIANA. "It is not «i«ie than three uv fdur years sineo (he seUlements thpoiigh this couAtry oammeuced. The Spuniah govcrnmt'nt h^»doni enoobn^ctneitts ta Amcncun settlers^ and 1 have been informed that about the years I SOl-^» emigration was begiu- l^g u^fipw ib ntpidly : it is probabk that in a few years, unless ^strained by goteromcntv there would hare beeu a consiftera* ble popuUtion; The {atiner^ i» the mine country, will hive tlie advantage of a ready market near them tor their produce, and in Mie winter seaaion, when their farms do not require attention, Ihey wiU.find a profitable empksyment in transponing the leari tD Id^f Downs, fbr the purpose of. being siupped. The ftttowing i& an estimate from the best information I can ^■obuMi, ofi the annual .produce of the (Afferent dunes, and of the number M persotis Engaged ift them; witlKiut counting sroefH^sy blacksmiths, and oihets. shii. <■: .(, I6a. lead. Mine d Burton 50.000 ili'ew Diggings . . . . . .200.000 * jf erry*8 Diggings Hiojii Siine Liberty, &c i Ult t' j^Uiptt's Digging!} .... Mines of B?lle Fontaine . . ^.'j'.i-.r- . .ZHiiii^aut Mine i I,A Mott/Ci . v . . . . - ... \}m naft (i* ^ourchc Couitois . ^ lU i .^■y.\'t\' .)i:'t ■:■ J J. ^jqe i Kobips Sc ta. 60000 100.000 300.000. 600.000 75.000 100.000 10.000 handa. 15 40 50. ni x.T < ill. dOQOQ 15^5^000 20 5a 70 30 40 15 30 3^ bj j^om this some estimate may be formed, of the piroduce of thC'se mines. When tliey come to be extensively worked, 1 have not u doubt b^t tKat they will oe able to supply the United. States, not ptxly. with ti sufficient quantity for home consumption, but al< 30 with an immense surplus for commerce. The government has manifested by some acts, an intention of reserving to itself the mineral tracts. But the policy of this, LEAD MIKB8, 8i|0.»400IL II. m I thinki may be fairly questioned. It is just und wise, that mines of gold or silver, or of other {tnicldlis minerals, whose value is conventional or imaginai y« should be reserved, or at least a pro- portion of thcin: but in -ores of ie«d oc ii>»n, whose nduc^flfwrds on the labor bestowed on them, and which are besides intrinsic pally useful, tltere should be «o interference with itxltyidQuls. In this countiry, where alnnost every tract, and fot* a great extent^ contains minea».lhe reservation would be almox imptracticabld^ I Ciui no mpre apfv^ve of this reservaticn, than 1 dd that of aalittes. I think they are contrary to correct princifrfes in aujr government, and particularly in the United States. A just go- vernment will never enter into competition, either in trade or manufacture, with individuals. The individtiid in such cabes, has to contend ag«^nst fjparfui odds. There is a liuleness in it degrading to the magnaniroity of a great repuWior By an act of congress, the governor of then>rritory rt authcH rised to grant least^ai) nf three years, to persons disictovi^nikg lead mines, or salines. The manners of the workman and of the peraMMi engaged in the mining businesA, have been represented asbtiiiMRoiiafB the extreme I am toldi that a few years ago, there ^aa a ool« lection of wqrthleaa and abandoned ch«raiCturt» and thait the di^ fereni minea were aeenea of broils and savage ferocity } but the state of society, has greatly altered since that tinae* There bat been some very avtrocioua aicta commitied lately* but it would be un&ir to infer frotn these the general cfaaratttrof thoae engag* ed about the mines. There are many worthy and reputable men engaged in this business* and many respectable ftonine ate scattered thieugh the mine country. ^ -I'VIBWS OF LOUISUNA. v.i c«A?TKij via. ■> |lSSOVA0Bfr-wAO|lICU).TUR»— ^AKVrACTV>^Bt— TBrADB, NATURE has been moce bountiful to this territory^ than pcrhapa to any part of tho western country. It possesses aU the advKntages of the Atates of Ohio, Kentucky and Tennes- see, with many which they have not. Proximity to the greaf mart of the west, will enable the produce of this territory to be the jirst in arriving, and consequently to brings the highest* prices. The agriculture of this tenritory will bu v-eiy similar to that of KentJck]^, except, that south of the 35° of latitude, cottcn raay be grown to advantage, and nearly as high as the Missouri, for home consumption. The soil, or climate, of no part of the United States i^ better adapted to the growth of wheat, rye, bar- ley, and every species of (run. Rice and indigo may be culti- vated in many parts of it: and no part of the western country surpasses it for the cult'ire of tobacco, hemp, and flax. Except the fi)|^, orange, and a fc\v other truits, every species common to the United States is cultivated to advantage. There are no ivherc finer apples, peaches, pears , cherries, plums, quinces, grapes, luelom*, 8ro. The manufactures which might be established are various and important. The immense quantity and cheapness of lead, naturally point put this country as the proper one for the differ- ent manu£eictures of (hat fnineral : sheet lead, shot, red and white lead, &;c- The abundance pf iron ore, on th^ Maramek, St. Francis, and Qsage rivers, will at no distant period, encourage ^h? establishment ot furnaces and forges. The different manu- ^ctures cf hemp, requisite for the lower country, may be here . carried on to advantage. There is a great abundance of the finest tiiPber for boat or bhip building ; in this respect, the situi* ation of the territory Y^^ 4?cidc4 advantages over the, rest of tl^e irestern cpuntry. The staple articles of trade, are at present, lead, peltry, cot- ^p^ tobacco, an^ l\\y stpgk. |t will not be iong before there \vjj( BOUNDARIRg, 8URPACB. fce^—BOOK U. 1ST b« added to these, the manafacturet of lead, hemp, und cotton* besides the raw materials themselves; also, iron, salt-petre, and coal, wheat, flour, apples, eider, whiskey, pickled pork) and ^e/; and a variety' of other articles of less importance. i CfUFrER IX. ^7V47!c qr loirisuMi. 30UMBARIBS— OBKBRAi:. sua? ACS, IcCa THE state of Liouisiana is bounded m the following manner | ^' beginnhig at the iqnouth of the river Sabine, thence by a line to Jbe drawn along tbe middle of said river, including all its islandst to the thirty-second ^.;gree of north latitude, thence due nortby to the pprthemmost part of the thirty-third degree of north lati« tude, thence along the said parallel of latitude, to the Mississip* pi ;" by the accession of Weat Florida, the state i» bounded on the east side of the Mississippi* as follows; from the thirty-first de* gree of north latitude pa the Miasissippi, along the ssdd parallel of latitude, to the eastern branch of Pearl river, and ^wn Pearl river to its mouth, thence to the mouth of the Sabine. It is bounded on the north and east by the Missisuppi territory, the south by, the ragged coast of the ' gulph of Mexico, and on the othc)r sides by unoccupied lands of the United States. . I refer the reader to Mr. Darby's table for an estimate of its superficial contents, ^c. Its shape i» exceedingly irregulary arising from the unevenness of the coaf t,, and from the line on the eastern side commencing only at the thirty first degree of north latitude. Were it to begin at the thirty-third, so as to cor- respopd with the line on the westera side, the state would be left in a more compact and definite shape. Something haslseeii said of carrying this into effect, if it should pieet the approbation of thjB pepple of tiie Mississippi territory. Much mightbe said 19 f4yor qf it(it woHlt) t^nd to lessen th^ expense of state gq* VIKWI OP LOUtlANA. vcrnment* to botk» and give tb»t right to the MmiMippi tern* tory Moner ttiua couki be iroU evpectod without. But the great obiectaooe, mmI indeed thfsf ft«ein hIibom iiisurmountablot arieo from the difficulty ofiubjecting that territory to the canl Uwt after having been so long accu&lomed to a different Byttteni ; and to introduce the common law iutQ. thu atatC} at once, would be highly impolitic* if practicable. With retpect to the turfoce of the ttatcy it may be easily comprehended under three general descriptions: I. The tract of UpUnd— II. The Alluvia and Sunken land»— III. The Prairies or Savannas— I. The tract of upland constitutes three-fifthi of the whole state ; all that part of Florida above Iberville^ which has been added to the state, is of this description. For fifteen or twenty miles from the Misrissippi it is covered with heavy timber^ prin- cipally oak, poplafi walnut* the magnolia grandiflorat aad a great variety of other launils. After this, we find with little va* riation) open pine woods, excepting on the banks of the streams, which are numerous and pleasant. On the other side of the Mississippi, wt-st of the alluvia (which are generally bounded by the Bayou Masfon, Bayou Bocuf, andtbe Teche) the upland commences, covered, with but little variation, by the long leaf- ed pine. It 49 divided to the S. W. by the avenue of Red river, beyond this, it resumes its original appearance, with little interruption, west to the Sabine t but in advancing to the gulph of Mexico, a change is gradually perceived. Within thirty miles of the Opelousas churah, the pine woods imper- ceptibly giv6 piace to groves of dwarf oak and hickory, with spots of ground covered only with grass; these groves appear only on the wuter courses, and we enter the boundless [urturies of Opelousas. II. The prairies or savannas, and Alluvia, scarcely constitute the other two-fifths of the state. Besides those on the Washita, and a few of no ^reat extent, west of Black river, there are none of any consequence, except those of the Opelousas and Attakapas. These constitute a tract of nearly eighty miles in length, from east to wettf and fifty in breadth. The prairies of BOUNDARIBt» SURFACB. fcc.^BOOK II. Iff OpetousM have a waTkin aurAMW* though no where rising ime hiik; thoie of the A^ta h ay a art flut and leTeli covered with a mere luxuriant and a eoarier vegetation. The whole couiurj Sa chequered by the woody nargina Of atreamiiy catted bajroua,* though different from the refluent wale#a of tho rivet. The pans of the country in Eng^ndy where the grounds are divide od by hedge rowa* might acem miniaturiBai oC the bokd dtaignt whicn natwrc has diapbyed io luying off tiiia tract. The fringca of wood on the borders of the bayous aeldom exceed a half male in widtbt and conaist of live oak* magnoHa* kc. and on the wcl parts, of cypress. The ritera Teche and Vermillion, haivc the largest tracts of timber^ bndf and are consequently the best settled purta. of the pndries^ The prairiea will he found in tfao aggregaiey the lenst valitable of the public donuda; if they be surveyed and laid off, as at present contemptatodf it wilf be hn^ possible to sell them for more than a trifle : wkvn would parthaae a tract of land situated perhaps at the dutance of set era! milei from wood or water? The fiict ia* that the greater part ia only fit for pasturage, and there is little lihetiboodt-of any other uao being maiLe of it, for many years to comoi From late obscrvi^ tiona, however^ it is probi^le, that in time trees might b? cuItU Yated: the soil is. growing richer from the manure left by the numerous herda of cattle which continually cover it. III. The alluvion lands constitute the third division^ Much erroneous calculbtion has been indulged on* this head. It has been, a prevailing opinion, that by fitf the gfWiter part of the state ia composed of thia kind of land. From what I have saic^ it may be seen that it does net constitute more than the fifth of the state: but of thia> portion, there is not more than a fomth winch. can be considered irreclaimable. When I say irvtclaim* able, 1 do not mean: to convey the idea of any {^sicalimposn* bilityt but the great dilRcirity with which it must be cS'eeted^ and the great length o£ time which must dopse befioire it can be done. 1 am well! satisfied that there is much less ofithe west' * They are nataral drains of the waters Locumulaitcd by the rains ie the prairies ponds and even lakes are formed in places. by th& rainaf* This arises from the uaeven surface of the ground. 160 100 VIEWS OF LOUUIAISA. ern tide o( the Miuiuippi rendered vieleu by the annual itood il^ than is usually stated. Thu obbcnration has t»oen several times repeaMd in diiferetot parts of these Views, and I find no reason to change my opinion. There is certainly much sunken and overflowed land, and perhaps not to be reclaimed without im- mense labor, and between the Washita and the Mississippi, per^ haps one-thiM is of this kind. But there is nothing more incor- rect tlian the general and vague accounts of writers on this sub- ject, who state thait the western side of the Mississippi is annual- ly inundated to the distance of thirty of* forty, and everi tixty mile: The settlements established within a few years between the Washita and the Mississippi, prove the error of the opi- nion to which so many have given currency. It is true as a genend mlc, that the bank of the Mississippi, is the highest part of the allu^on ground, but this is not always the case ) the banks of the bayoux and of the lakes are as high, if not higher. On many of the bayoux there are extensive tracts of up- land, and this rarely occurs on the bank of the river itself below the Arkansas. Wherever these are to be found, we may safely conclude that the ground is but little subject to be covered by the overflowing of the waters. The road from Concordia, (op« posite the town of Natchea] to the upland on the other side of Black river, is but seldom rendered imp!issible for travellers on horseback. I consider the extent of the lands subject to be in- undated by the Mississippi, on the eastern side, as not exceed- ing fifteen r Ilea, until we .come to Black river. 1. From the foregoing outline it will appear that the alluvion lands are chiefs If on the western side of the Mississippi, (the bottoms on the eastern side c>re not remarkable) and are finest along this river from the 33*, extending back to the distance of twenty miios, but suddenly widening on the approach to Red river. a. On the Red river, of fM average width of ten miles, widening on its app^'oach to the Mississippi. 3. Below Red river and con- stituting the weslem t\ngle of the Delu. I think it probable, th^ton a better acquaint^xnce these tracts will be found to contain by far the most valuable |iorti«j»ns of the public domain ; the pro- |)ortion of sunken lands, rsduir.iable only with great difAeulty, J^ leas than the proportion of unproductive pine woods, w of tfOUKDARIKS. SunFACfi, fc6.-£B00lC tl. Ml phSai^ not tutceptible of cultivatioD from th« wanf bl' wood and water. In order to give the readei^ a more iatisfactorj view of the tnbjecti I will enter into tome detail on the topography of di^ ferent aectiona, or natural ditiiiona* t 1. Section qftke 9tate between Red rhjer^ MUeU§\^^ end tkf line qfthe 38« qfM Lmt, Thia embraces an exteusite portion bf the atate* and of t character in many reapecta different from the rest. The great* er part ia of an uneven aurfocet in plaeea hiUyt and hitariably covered with the long leafed pine. The loil, we may naturall]^ auppiae from thia growth, to be poor, if not barren. But I havd been informed by intelligent persons, that it ia preferable to the pine kmda of Georgia. There are no sand hills, and etery whem a luxuriant helrbage. I have passed over some parte which ard rocky, but in general wc find a light grey colored earth, mixed with a considerablo portion of sand. It is supposed that Wheat might be grown in this soil to advantage. There are a great ma<* ny beautiful streama of clear delightful water, upon whose bor* ders, the landa are rich and clothed with a variety of trees^ th^ mi^Rolia and other laurela, al^rays forming the grof^ter propor^. tion. Theso strips of Und, or bottoms, rarely exceed a mile ilk width. On the roads 'oe(weei) the Washita and Red Hver, thera are a number of scattered aettlers, who live tolerably #ell) the adjacent pine wood enabling them to keep large herd! of cat* tie. The country is generally healthful, and when it become* settled, will be one of the most pleasant in the state. The Wash* itst Catahoulat and Little river, are the printipal streams by which thb tract is watered. On the Washita there is said to bil uplMidt similar to that of tlte Missouri, and which is well suited to the raising of wheat. The country abounds with streamsi ^%hioh afford* mill seicb^ out it is feared that the torrents which tney roll along after heavf rain, would sweep aWay ahy wo^lS thiU might be erected. On some of the more considentble orveka, or rivulets, it often happens that the whole valley it overflown.- Their ohannels are deep) and many of them abound)>, ov 0^ m VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. ing in qvkkMndS) but their beds* are usually composed of gra-r Tcl or stone. Xhe exc^pUQD to tHi9 general description craisists in- the tffaPl )}etv(een the Washita and the Mississippii the greater part of which is low land. BlacI^ river, which loses its name at the junction of the Tensa^ Washila and Catahoula* runs through the loTrer part of this tract. The lands on the borders of this riv- er, are too low, but not annually subject to be overflown. There }iad been ^ttlers for several years on its hanks, all the way to t)\e ^omh) pfevioM^ to ISUt but the flood of that year, (one of t^ X^Qftlt, reinarltal^le experitsnced in thU country^ coiripeJIied ^e greater part of them to, abandon their plantations. The lands b^tw^en the lUapld river. Red river, and the Missisnp]^ are gWO<>g*< ^^® lowest in the alluvion tract. There ate some hvkes ; that ^ Coitp(k»di» for junstance, connected, with the three rivers l^fof «; inei^d^edt by bayoux diverging from all sides On some fif ih^P \^9lf9^^ the land is sufficiently high to admk of stttle-^ ineiMy. T^o greater part of thia alluvion soil is tinged with red, frwn thf a/tli^turf of the sediment brought down Red river, Uti^ tJlu^ 9f the MiBsisslppi, The tract cncleacf* hy the Rvd riv- er> Afi(i^i^pp^ T^Q8||,and a long narrow lake connected with the TeJWf^ lak^i^ G4le4 Ai^^rSfQBt forms the county o£ C^oncordia, vhipj^ \s almeat aai|ljin4i Ihe east end ofi thia ^ke approaching IRit^ a $BW nAJ|l<}« of Ihe NisMssippi. Oppodte this tract, on the ^e^terQ aH^ of Bl9i{]| rWer, there is anotlier of nearly equal Jbi^i;, t^ut w^icb is a cornpleiQ island, formed by t|ie river just ^^ntUffiif d» with the^ bayou S«Une, and the Catahoula kike and rivev^ I^ this tract» Ihvre «re no settlements ; the lands are ex- trtiQely Ww Tbe laK€» caHed Catafonioucta, situated on^this ^r^c(, h, laM ^ bf^v» soipf high land on its borders. The Cata* il^QUU )ayouk, apd to wade through places overflown. I am^ conscious how difficult it is to convey any idea of s^ ^ country, particularly such as this, without a map ; 1 do not know of any exUOnt, which I can recommend to the reader: that of Lafon, is undoubtedly the best yet published, but from my own observation, fOid from what I have learned from others, it is by no means to be relied on. It was, however, the best that could be made at the time of its publication^ but sinpe then the coun*. try has become much better known. The manuscript map of Mr. Darby is greatly superior, the greater part of it bebg takcQ ^m lictual survey. The principal settlements ^re those of Concordia, Gatai (iDula, and Washita. In the two last, the settlers cultivate cotton^ but in the pther, their principal dependence is tn the rt>Hi)g of stock and the culture of Indian com, and they generally live poor, f^yiDjg; but few pi the comforts and convetuences of Ufip, BOUNDAtlTBS, StJRf ACE 8u:.— fiOOK n. 165 ikeq 9. The alluvion tract of Red rtver'-^AvoyeUe-^Lond around the mouth of Red river--^tchafalaya. The alluvion lands of Red river are remarkably distinguish- ed from those of the Mississippi} by their deep red color, arisingf OS is supposed by Dr. Hunter, from the decomposition of p/riteSf pr a mixture of some metallic substance. The lands on the Atchafalaya, and on numerous bayoux at present fed by the wa- ters of the Mississippi, are of this descripticn < the sediment brought down by Ked river, appears to predomuiate through a very extensive portion of the alluvion soil west of the Missis^ eippi. If it is difficuli to give an idea of the country bordering on the Mississippi, by a mere description in words, it is still more 80 with respect to the valley of Red river. Its irregular and con« fused shape, <^ if shape it oan be called," baffle every attempt to compare it to any known figure in mathematics or in nature. This irregularity is principally caused by the strange and ec- centric course which that river pursues. Instead of flowing in a regular channel, it divides its waters into a hundred streamsi separatiQg and again uniting so as to render it difficult to trace the principal river. Larg^ tracts of primitive ground, qr up- land, in the ever changing course of this river, have been cut off from the main body, stand perfectly disconnected with it) and ^rrounded by alluvion; the current having in time entirely v.orp away the primitive ground. There are a great number of bj»yo.ui^j,or refluent streams, which show incontestable proofs, of Iiaving bpep at different periods, the beds of the river. It is to |>c observe^, t^^ on the N. E. side, the Red river is almost in- yy the primitive land, and the irregularities just iikentioned, occur chiefly on the & western side : from this it would appear, that \H9 river, like the Mississippi, is progress- ing in its general course e,aftward, and that it could never have been much further in that direction than at present. Red river* would be almost as bold a stream as the Mississippi, but for the great diminution of its waters by subdivision and the forms- tion of lakes; it has had the good effect of rendering the lands in its vicinity more free from inundation, than those of the Mi** Mssippi. About Iftt. 32* 40, long. 96° 15, Red river separates iit* IM VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. to two branches, wbich unite within ten miles of Natchi: tOGhes. The eastern branch retains the name of the river, is the roost considerabi'., but obstructed by the great raft. A ba- you which makes out on the east side of this branch, spreads out into lake Bestianeau, and afterwards joins the mam stream. The western branch does not flow in a Well defined channel, ^tit at short intervals, spreads out into lake I^isaquie, lake Main doux, nnd lake Long, connected ou the east side1}y bayou Pierre^ (properly a continuation of the W. branch) and immediately be- tote the junction of the two branches, the W. branch, by a refluent bayou, contributes with the streams from the upknd in forming the lake Espagnol.* The is'and, or tract, enclos- ed by the two branches, is of an oval form) and not less than three hundred miles in circumference; a considerable part is 6ud to consist of low sunken lands, but there must doubt- less be a large portion of a superior (juality. Immediately below the village of Natchitoches, the river agfdn sepai'ates into three branches^ the middle one being the principal The eastern is called Fausse riviere, (False river) and is connect- ed with several lakes to the N. E. of it. The western branch is called the river of the Post, and has on its S. W. side a number of lakes? formed partly by its own refluent waters, and those of the upland streams: the lake i Casig is the largest of these. Between this and the middle branch, several islandsf ard formed by the connecting bayoux. In Umes of high water there is but tittle difference in the size of these three branches; the ri* Ter of the Fost has been preferred on account of the distance be- ing shorter, but the middle branch is much the clearest, though nothing more than a deep gut or bayou, twenty or thirty- yards in width, scarcely sufScient for a long barge to turn round. The principal settlement of Natchitoches, is situated upon it, and forms an ahnoot continued village for forty or fifty miles. The inrater jpever rises so as to render it necessary to add to the na? * TMftis inore or tess the esse with all the lakes in the vicinity of ]^d rirer. The streanis from the hi|pb, or pritaiti ve ground, are extreme.. ly well supplied with water. f AjBongat otfterik tbe isle of the Natchcx, iHiese that unforttuMte people madft their Ust stand fiOt7NDAB1ES» StJBPACE Ste^BOOK II. ur 'he naf •tural buil^i. These brancket re>unUe fifteen or twentf niilet above the Rapides. The Red river rcceixes from the N. £. side lake Yse, wbicb discharges itself by the rivers Rara aod Mar* teau. From the re»uiuoD of these braiiches* the river pursues a tolerably well defined course to the Mississippi, loung its waters by only two or three bayoux, and not fonning any consrderable lakes. Bayou Boeuf, which is formed partly by a large stream from the upland, and partly from the waters of Red river, roaf be regarded as the bouE^uary of the Red river alluvion in that quarter. In casting the eye over the map, it will be seen that a trian- gle is formed, of which bayou Boeuf is the base, and Red river and the Mississippi the two sides. It is in this triangle that the largest body of low sunken lands, are to be found in the statei particularly in the angle of Mississippi and Red river, and round the curious islatvd of Avoyelle. From murks on the trees, it ap- peared to me that the land bad been overflowed to the depth of ten feet. The Avoyelle is a body of primitive ground, about thirty itailes in circumference, the growth similar to that of West Flo- rida, in the neighborhood of the Mimissippi; the soil is not re- markably rich, but affords a handsome settlement. The Atcka- &!aya of Avoyelle, flows through the triangle, in a course paral* |el to the bayou Boeu^ and is without any settlement ; the land low. The lands on the bayou Boeuf, particularly on the upper part of it, are amongst the best in the state, commonly of two miles in width, covered with impenetrable thickets of cane) the soil extremely rich, of a red color, similar to that on the At- cha&layaof Red river. Of late years, several settlements have been formed in this bayou, and the lands were growmg into high repute previous to the depreciatitm in the jHrice of cotton. Th« Unda on the Atchafalaya of Red river, are of nearly the sam« quality, but do not possess the same depth.* There are still biM ibw settlers. Its navigation is interrupted by rafu and other obi- structions. Tk9 valley of Red river is susceptible of a very wealthy aodL ^tensive population j with the excej^iou of the triangle bc£»r« * The grsMt of the United 8tat«f« t« the Marquit ^ ]ia Vay«Ua hfeti chiefly located on this bayou. XBB V. VIEWft OP LOmSIWA* I described, being but little subject to OTcrflowinfi: : the profMirtiot* of sunken ground} is scarcely equal to the part which may be cultivated, and the proportion altbgether irreclumable, is very small. The best cotton of the United States is produced here,, and brings in market, generally, one cent more in the pound.-^ Tobacco and indigo are also amongst the articles of culture*. The principal settlements, are those of Natchitoches, bayou Hapide, bayou Robert, bayou Boeuf, and Atchufulaya. The greater part of the tract between the Atchafalaya, l>ayou Flaquemine, and the Mississippi, is low and uninhabitable land) of which no use can be m&de in its present state. The ^et*^ demtents of Pointe ^^np^ Went Baton Rouge, and Plaque* ntine, form trifling • |> i '^^ The route to the Attakapas and Opelousas, usually t, ly boats, is through the bayou Plaquemine. The last and the largest body of alluvion ia the state, is en* closed by the bayou Plaquemine, Atchafalaya, a bayou which makes out from it, (and forms the grand lake, connected with the lac d'eau Sal6e,) the sea, and the Mississippi. This tract is interspersed with a number of very large lakes, connected -with thts sea. Bayou la Fourche and Atchalafaya pass through it: the latter is lost in a variety of lakes and bayoux before it enters the gulpfa. This land is rapidly gaining from the sea ; the large lakes are shallow, and perceptibly filling up every year, by the sediment of the Mississippi. There is some land around them susceptible of being cultivated, but generally, there b no liabitable land on this tract, except on the bayou la Fourche* and Mississippi. The bayou la Fourche is a beautiful natural ca* oal, admittting of settlements on its banks for eighty miles from where it issues from the Mississippi. When the Mississippi is lught it is about one hundred and fifty yards in width, its banks* iHlich rarely overflow, are guarded by a slight levee of two feet |)igh: it is free from obstructions the whole way to the gulph, and there are said to be sixteen feet of water on the bar. For the distance of sixty miles, a single horse might draw a large boat, so clean andeven are its banks. In riding along it, the idea of a mag- nificent artificial canal was continually occurring to my mind : art cAnrtot surpatt.it. The lands are in many places a mile dnd ^OUNBAlilES, SUltFACB, ttc— BOOK it 169 an half in depth on both sides. It is supposed, that on this ba- you, aiid on others connected with it, there is twice as much ha- bitable l«nd, as there is from its entrance, on both sides of the Mississippi, to New Orleans. Fof nearly thirty miles down^ on each side, there appears a continual villitgej and it is tolera* bly well settled for thirty miles further. 8. Attakafid* and Ofieloutat. Opelousas is separated from the Attaka^MS by Iwyou l^usil- iier, whith connects the Teche with the Vermillion, and is a natural canal, which might with e|ise be rendered navigable.—* On the S. W. side of the Vermillion it is separated by the Ca- ranCro, a stream which takes its rise in the prairies, and falls into the Vermillion. The traveller, on approaching the Teche from the Vermillion, easily discerns Where the high primitive ground gradually descends into the lower prairies of the Attakajpas.— These, I have already observed, are covered with a coarser ve- getation, and are better wooded than those of the Opelousas^ but there is a much greater porUono^them waste, and subject * be drowned by rains, and are even sometimes inundated by tht Teche : the greater part is probably alluvion, at least for a mile or two on the S. W. side, and the Ivhole on the other. The soil is extremely rich, though of a texture somewhat too close, lia- ble to bake and become hard and stiff. Cotton is at present the principal culture ; the sugar-cane has been found to succeed a» well if not better than on the Mississippi. A number of plantersy of late, are turning their attention to it Several cotton planter^ of the Mississippi territory, have sold their plantations, and commenced establishments on the Teche. On lake Tasse there is a sugar establishment of some years standing, but this is the only one which has yet been completed. The Vermillion and the Teche are the principal rivers of the Attakapas, neither of them formed by the refluent watersof other rivers, but rising in the high prairies of the Opelousas; the Vermillion in the neighborhood of the Opelousas church, and the Teche considerably north of it. Their general courses arc nearly the same to the lake Tasse, where the Teche vinds some- what east of south. Their chahncls are deep, the waters of a m views OF LOUISIANA. dark color, and not reckoned very {;ood for use. They are coo» nee ed by streuras from the lake Tasse. Schooners and light vessels may ascend in both as far as this place* from the Ver- million bay, or Berwick's bay, into which these rivers are dis- charged. The Teche is a much larger and longer river than the other, being upwards of two hundred miles in length. The Ta&se is a beautifrl lake of clear water, about ten miles in cir- cumference ; there are plantations around it, on the eastern side, the other is entirely bare of wood. The principal settlements of the Attakapas are on each side of the Tcche (though mostly on the western,) and on the Ver- million. Besides the culture of cotton, maize, &c. they have the advantage of those extensive natural meadows to support their herds ; from the mildness of the climate, little or no trou- ble is requisite to keep them. The inhabitants of the Attakapas are generally wealthy, and live as luxuriantly as the planters of the Mississippi. It is not eonsidered healthy, perhaps, less so than on the coast of the Mississippi. On the whole, it is destin- ed to become one of the richest districts of .Louisiana. The immense tract of open plains or meadows, which composes the Opelousas, boasts of advantages superior to all the riches of the Tethe or the Mississippi, in the salubrity of its air and the beattty of its surface. Free from stagnant waters, with the exception of a few ponds in the prairies, the atmosphere is not poisoned by noxious vapours, and open to the breezes from the gulph, it enjoys a cool and refreshing temperature, while the rest of the state is suffering from the effects of a close and sul- try air. Without fear of contradiction, I may pronounce the Opelousas to be by fur the most healthy part of the state. No« thing can be more beautiful and cheering to the traveller, than the prospects and views which this country affords.. There is nothing wild or savage, t^et the sceaefy is not tame or monoto- nous; there is a sufllicietit variety atid succession of those scenes, which sooth the mind, or inbpire with lively and pleasing emo- tions' I passed through them last May, when they appeared to great advantage. The distance of my journey was forgotten while I gased with delight upiod the waving sur&ce of these meadow^) now covered with deep green, and of extent, in some BOUNDARIES, SURFACE, &e.^BOOK H. m placet boundied only by the horizon, in others by skirts of wood, dimly appearing as in some distant isle of the sea; while a thou* sand brilliantjuid odoriferous flowers shed their perfume upon the air. The plantations scattered along the water courses on the outside of the fringe of wood, the vast herds of cattle roam- ing at random over the plains, complete the pleasing picture. The settlements are entirely on the water couraes, vf hich chequer thi». plain; settlers turn their attention principally to grazing, cotton is however cultivated to ac^vautage. The num- ber of cattle composing the herds which some of the wculihier possess, would in other parts of the United States, be consider- ed incredible ; there are several who mark from one to two thou- sand calves every year. The cattle driven to New Ofleans for sale, bring from fifteen to twenty dollars a head. The Mcntou is as large as the Teche, and falls into the gulph considerably to the S. W. of it, as also does the Carcasou; on both these rivers there are said to be considerable bodies of ha- bitable land. The Sabine, which constitutes the boundary in thai quarter, is a very considerable river, but is not at present sus- ceptible of navigation, on account of obstructions in its coursef. The lands immediately in its neighborhood are ^;ood. The route to the Opelousas and to the Attakapas, is either by Plaquemine, as before mentioned, or by the'ferry of la Fourche. This is also the route in time of high water, to Rapidc, or Natch- itoehes, for persons g^ng by land. I rode along the lower b»* you la Fourche about twenty-five miles, then crossed over to the out-let of a small bayou, 15 or SO feet i^ide, called tht Canal, from it» having been somewhat imprqved by labor, and form- ing a convenient communication with the lakes, and the Teche : following this bayou or canal about fifteen miles, I came to the ferry kept by a Gkrman, who hais the exclusive right from the state, on condition of keeping suitable accommodations. Here I embarked, in the evening, on a platform erected on two large Cv^noes, with a railing jn the middle for the purpose of confining oqr hprses, and alter passing through lake Platte, and several other lajbes .^qd bayoux, landed about three o^clopk next mom* ing, two miles up the Teche. The distance twenty-three miles. The night being pleasant, and no wind stirring, I had a pleasant ut VraWS OF LOUISIAlf A. patMge, The lakes are not more than three or four milei la width} hut the nftrrow bayou x connecting them are so numerous* that it requires considerable experience not to lose the way. On my return | was less fortunate ; I found at the ferry seYeral persons who had been waiting for three dayst the wind render- ing it useless to attempt to cross; their patience Wfis by this time totally exhaustedtand it was determined to start* though the wind had abated but little of its violence. With some difficulty we reached Berwick's bay. The wind here became too s|roog> ^d we were compelled tq pui to shore on a little pmnt of lan4 overgrown with palmettoes,* where we found two or three fish- ermen stretched before a little fire. The (ide wu up» the bank of the lak# not more than two feet high, These lakes are ent ▼eloped in the most gloofny forests of oak, cypress and ash* up- on whose boughs the long mossyt or Spanish beard* is suspend? f d in enormous nrwssest almost shutting out the light from these dreary spots* yf\a\P underneath* there is an impenetrable thicket of underwood* and smaller trees and vines. Ahout 13 o'clock* the wind having somewhat abated, we struck across the bay* but before we could reach bayou Long* the approach of a storm* which every moment threatened to burst upon us* ccnapelled as to put into one of the first bi^oux which coiumunicatca with lake |*lat^. We had scarcely reuched the entrance* until it began to poor down tcMrents of ffun* accompanied by incessant peak of thunder. Without the slightest shelter except our great coats* vfe fqund our situation extremely uncomfortable. Abou| day light we continued our voyage* opposed by wind and current* the rain continuing with but little intermission until we arrived 0/1 the other side* whiph was not until four in the evemngi al«> * 4 plaot very common in the lower part of LoaiMans-Hhe leavei 80 disposed m to bear a strong resemblance to a very lafge |eni. It ftow$ upctn U^e more elevated spots of grpund. ' f f h«veng sweet dew* itid flow'rs ; where any roW Vliwt or LOOtftAITA. Of IVuit4reeii over^wvody rcaeh'd too tu Thtir pMttpcr'd bouyhs,*''— »lic. The borders of the MiMieeippi in their netura! •(•!«« ire ftr ftom being egreeeble to the ejre ( we lee onljr Rloofnx fbrestii cloee thickets of underwood and reedsi puurosoent trunlui of trees» unci the nidged benks heaped up with the sweeping-p of the upper country^ and the sides of the river filled with saw- yers and planters. In Uea of these defomiities« we generally ^nd clean» smooth bankst a stream unobatructed by these impe- dimontsi its encroachments restrained) and delightful plantations and dwellings every where appearing. The Coast may be said to begin at Poiiite Couple. fr'4m this to La Fourche? two-thirds of the banks are perfectly cleared and highly cultivated! from thence (o N. Orleans, distance of near 100 mi|esi the settlements continue without interruption on both sidest ^nct present the ap<« pearanceof a continued village. I was enchanted with the magni- ficence of the scenei as 1 floated down the ntajestlc river in Dec. 1811. The continued succession of plantationi hud off with reg- ularity and taste ; the various useful and ornamental treett the figi peccanet ever green oak* lauralsi pine^ weeping willowi kc The delighi^l groves rA Orange ireeS) bending under the weight of their goiien fruiti to one, just from the dreary solitudes of th^ Misiourii or the rude wilds of Upper itoui^anat w«re objects indescribably pleasing. I could have believed that I waa wit- nessing those paradisiacal scenes of which I have sometimea «lre«i^med; but one or two reflections which intruded themselves» unwelcome and unbidden gueatSf soon caused me to view the me respects, in too favorable a light t that 1 have endeavored Id represent the diflncuities which oppose themfti'lves to its im- provement, as less considerable than they really are. Certainly those difHculties are many and great, and when contumplafedt without reflecting on what man can effect, they api>car in«ur« mptmtabie ; but when we examine what he has done in other ir* VIEWS OF LOmstAl^A. parts of the world, it must be acknowled^d that but few im* possibilities present themselves in the improvement of this country. Time, and a numerous pdpuhition, are doubtless, re- quisitet but the advanuges which offer themselves, will render it no less certain. TNe soil of Louisiana is the most fertile in the world, the climate delightful during nine months of the year, and bad the remainder, only from beingf irrecltdmed; its productions are of the most valuable kind, and its geographical position, superior, perhaps to that of any part of America. These considerations will combine to ndse the lands of Louisi- ana to their highest value, sooner than In other sections of the union, where the lands being more than sufficient to support ten times the present population, and the productions every where much alike, it is not likely that the inhabitants will soon be com- pelled to resort to the thousand arts, by which every acre in the populous parts of the old world is forced « n bring something. In Louisiana, the value of its prodtictions ihe amazing fertility of its !k>il, with its other advantages) will cause these arts to be resorted to much sooner. Still many years must pass away be- fore we can expect to become sufficiently acquainted with this country, or before the diflTerent means can be discovered of redu- cing it to subjection ; this must be the result of long experience and observation. It will be reduced to a science, all the inventions of the old world for similar purposes will Lc put in requisition, and new ones adapted to the peculiaritiee of the country will be fallen upon. But it is the gift of man to subdue and govern the earth, and when we have seen him not only place it under his subjection, but even raise for himself a dominion out of the ele- ment of storma, where shall we set bounds to liis luborii and in- genuity ? The most ronslderable work of art yet constructed for the purpose of rendering this country habitable, is the embankment •f the river, usually called the levee. Wc should m much de- ceived if we were to form an idea of thitt from the dykes of Hol- land or the embankments of the Nile. The fcvees are common- ly constructed in the folloving manner. At the distance of thir- ty or forty yai^s from the natural bank, a mound of earth is rais« «d, varying from four to 8i:C feet high, and usually from nix to tEVEES.--BOOIt i'. in tiihto fetft at the base, with sufficient width at the top for a foot path. A close stiff clay, conimon on the lower parts of the riveri la preferred. Sods are placed on the sides and at the top, and cjrpress slabs are often put in the inside for the purpr:*e. of pre- venting the watet*, where there is ahjr current, from eating away the earth; There is a ditch for the purpose of draining off tho water which boxes through. The road lies between the leve<$ and the fendes, and is crossed at internals bjr dndns, covered with plank, as the sewers of a citjr, fur the purpose of carrying off the Water t6 the swamps. An immense qUanUty . of water finds its way through the embankment^ mostly through holes made by cfaVrflsh, Which sometimes increase so rapidly, as to effect a breach. Several years are necessary for the levee to be- come perfectly solid and firm, previous to this, it is liable to be injU^il by rains. The levee pursues a zig-aag course, to suit the different curves and indentations of the river, as Well as the sinuosities, for it being too slight a work to compel the river to hold its course, it must yield to its caprice. As the river en- croaches upon it, or recedes, another levee is constructed near- er the river, or behind the first; from which pircumstancesi there are in many places doublti levees. A person standing in* side of the levee in a very high flood, appears to stand below tlie surFace of the water ; but thei^ are in few places ihore than two or three feet ag^ainst the levee, the ground between it and the river being much high^^r than on the iuSide ; this may be ac- counted for, from the quantity Of sediment deposited, and the wearing down of the road. There aire besides, other rnode^ of constructing the levee, arid the expense end siae depends Upon the resistance necessary, which in some places, generally in bends, is much greater than in Others. What is considered a good levee, may almost any where be made for four hundred dolls, per mile. Every individual is obKg^d to keep up the levee in front of his own land, and before the time of high waters it is inspected by commissioners appointed for the purpose in each parish, and if found insufficient, it is made at his expense. But this is by no means adequate to the purpose, for during the sea- son of great floods, the Uvees require constant attention, they must be conlMiually watched, and all hands are sometiiiies drawn t %r» VmWf OF LOtnHAKA. .fram the fields to iittq^id th«in for wbolo d^jiand nights. Wb«rc the levciB l;iapj>ent not to be pufilclentlj highfCMith mutt be added; where It i^pcart toci^uroble }», slabs. ipu«t be |)Uced to protect it; Ki^hero rains ha,ve rendered h spongy »nd,iocM(ey everjr appqar- ance of « Hole ii|a4e by crawBsh must bo wntcbed •nd filled up. HcQjCOt it jufiten occurm that frnni the weakness pr uegUgonce of some individual, )both be and his neighbors are ruined* It has often been a nw^etr .of .surprise to me thitf works t^pon which so much depend, should be constructed, in ainannnr so rude and trifling. A few moments are suiBcicynt .to destroy the labor and industqr of twenty years It wo rj^marke^i that the atcam boat in high winter, under wayj might with ease p^MW over th^ leree ;:I WM Qever q)ore struck wi^h theinff^t Atate of im- provements in.this cojiintryt and the want of public spirit, than in tiewb^g the work upon which the l^uloWan depeitds for the s^curitjr of his all: s pipdigtous Yolume of water rolling over his hepid, prevented only by s plight mound of earth from over- whelming bjmand all he posfesses. 3ut he dmss not sleep soundly* In 1 8 1 1 ,* hi the sefkion of high water, for »i» weeks the coast presented » Kene of xoqtinwl a» 4«^ W2D00K It. m wliieh ccMlfMied nMM thta*^ a dkjr, mOit %it¥m\^ IkdtiOkHtk the l«y«e) dolni^ itiueh in^tf to tHv phmtMloHti Hid thfX' itbrm oeeuttfld' «rtM same Mflton iNtf jrvitf iibfbtw, die itfiblto country would Hiv« b««ti imdet^wktvr'. /^gcmriemtnr Ihf6t-iti** ed me tWit lie #lth«t«ed ritonti thttt' iiNtfoh, ^ whlfelCltttadP only fifteen minutei{ yst the cffectr iHiifeh it i fitHt t fet X d' Mkm itfcd>dhUtti h • voluntarily' rtut to trie lOfM il K'wiitf t6'ty^p'«Qf thre«' fteti and tH« di^ceht tD^tKd^ s'vfampt ib verjr rapld^ perh«p» not l<^ than fl>ni"f(feet m iMlHr. Even hr tMi itate, it mutt flbw drer itfe bankf with great veii^ city; huf Che artMicial embonkmenttf l^endoelfig Ha iraien^. cause t^««m to riie from «wo to'three'f^et higKef. Tht; natural' ftl! of the river itfeelf} lourcely exceedb onie fcpot perit^lte t i^ aUij now eaidiy- conceive t)^ velocity of a sheet of iNtter^WhoaO current it' thus tuddienly increased' w fivt or tlx- Aetf (Mr mile', ft ruthea frem the rhrer witHindetcrihablib imj^ettattihys ntVttrtf noiie like the* roavhig^of a catirttict, bolll>ymd'^ ibKiMttg^i gMf teArlhg every thing Mefbre it To' on« whb bat nor te«n thiv country it it almottf hnpoitlble t6 convey* any idhi of thoterrora excited by a crrva«9e or breaking of the levee. £ike th« bre»k<> ihg out of Are in a town, wheni ne otie* Ihww ; whim' hia own dwelling maybe atsailed, it excitea utiiversal' comteMation; every emplbyment It abandoned for ittilea above and* Hetow, and^ all huten to the spot, where every exertion it iftade dky ahd* night to aiop the breach, which it locketimet fueeeiiflil, bur more frequently, the hostile ehfmenr la itiflfered^ w take iti course.'* The consequences are, the dtestruttion of the ctt>p, the' my * There are various modes of stopping a erevassS, Uh« «ii«it eomnnon is tbefollowiRifs ihey begin on each tide of the cr4M«M, tO drive dtou< ble rows of piles gradually falling with the current to as to meet less re* i^istaneek unt'»l ikmy uiute« and thus form a semtoinile like a ftib basket } in the next place Uie piiea are interwoven with small branches, or sNkiJ placed lengthwise between ihera ; branches of trees arc then placed^ behind the piles, and some heavier materials, logs, tie. against them : if d ':^'f 'j.i ij 1 y\3m g S r.i ,> t^H-' 190 VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. buildings, and sometimes the uy'A itxelf is much injured where the current rushed over, eiirryuig aw^y ^he soili or le^ivu^g nu« roerQt^s logs and trees drawn into tht ^rprtex as* they floated down the river; these mus( be destroyed before the land can again be icultivatedf T^^ efTecu of ^ bread) of the levee are even mora desolalii^g thiol thpse of fii:e. i'{tl?!^^gh^t aipbit^oua of the reputation of a prqjeptor, I con* not refrain froiq ei^pressing the (ollowing nptions on the mode Krhich ought to be pursued. It strikes me that this, as is the case with every great public work in the Unitf|d. States, should be resigned to ^ company prganixed ^r the purpose, who might dny/fk benefit from the undertakingt i^id at the same timebe res- poq|ible,tp the individual for tbie injury which hesusti^ns. When lire see the enormqus fCf pense in constructing tumpikea for the purpose of facilitating (he transportation of goods and for travel- ling, it would bp no grefit esertiop of public spirit, for people to go to the {Mine expense in securing upt only those objects, .but their a fi. Ppe himdred thousand dollars yk^ould make the levee tveaty feet wide at the base, and ten feet at the top from New Orleans, on tbe east ftide« to Baton Rouge ; the expenses thei^ would not h^ greater thai) in keeping a turnpike road in repair, The trayelliuj^ up and down the coast is as great as on any of our turnpike'^, and the tolls would yield as rrtuch. There is nq planter on the cr !it whq would not pay two dolJUrs per acre front per annum, ija be excm^it i'rom the labor of keeping up his levee, iuid t'or the . security be wouid guin from one ntaiio on ^cb fi ^al^> Itisi^faO ..ere ii> not. u planter ou the Mii!* sissippi, yfkiotiQ plari. tion u^li^ht not.be jrmncd Ui half an hour, and perhaps less time by some viiiain} wicked ciiough to do it : he yfpuH 9nly bave to ra#k|: a.^rt^cbiM th^ leve«:, which the cur* rent woMld sppn yrken s^ciently for his puiput»e. Centiuels during the highest stage of water, are contitiually walking on tthe leveeS) i.3 well to prevent such attempts, as to watch uiiy in- roa4» 'f the water, -^" ■ . . • they can succeed this fiu>, earth ia then thrown upon the w'holt', and t^us a new ieve« formed. As a preventutivt- where the levee itppeftrs to be ailtoat giving away, cofler dams are erected. ANTIQUITIE8.~BOOK IL M It wottldbe adviaeabte to leave atintervalSfOpeDin^i k (bi: ie- vee, pfoperly secured oq each aidet like tbe siekes a/ mc aww millat io order to let off, the vrater-of the rive^. i%fi mtrMsnae , quuotity eaoapes- through the present kvees. In propcMtiofi m . the leveea extend upwardS) and those jielow . btcome properly , secured, so as to prevent much of the water Irom.escapingt tt^ey , must ,be raised. A vast body of waterji^,, thq^present time pas*^, sea off in those places, where.there are poeqnbankinents ; if thia were kept in, the leveea would <^.vei7 where require to be sev<)«. ral feet higher. Arti&c;iid drains at proper distances might in it great measure obviate this difficulty, Eut not having leisure for th«se speculations, I ieav«.tbem to others, whaare otherwise int^rast^d) than as general wellfwiahers tor j^9 prosperity of tbei. country.. • . t ■ ' ^JtNXmUITIES IN THE VALLEY OF THE MISSiaSZPPZ. ai JIIJIIIP VOVIftTI BXGTIVS XKTII, CAXDIDUS IMVERTI, SI MOVfHia ilTXAB MBGUM. -Mi -i^ ..-irVftill-'H} ri^li-- CONSIDERABLE curiosity has been excited by appear* ances on the Mississippi and its tributary waters, supposed to prove a more ancient and advanced population, than the state of the country^ or the character of the tribes inhabiting it, when first visit|Bd by Europeans, would seem to indicate. 1 need m4ke.n0 apology for devoting a chapter to a subject, which has been dignified by the pens of Mr. Jefferson, Dr. Burton, an^ a Bishop ]Vludison. Yet, with all possible deference to theso respectable names, I cannot but think their theories founded on a very imperfect acquuntance with these remains : having never themselves, visited any but the least considerable, and but, few having been described by others wim accuracy. The sub- ject is still new, and I know of none wiuch opens a wider ifiel4 for interesting and amusini; speculation. m VlteWi OF tMfimKWk. Mtoft witltouiconthhtrinitthe Mtontohlnff inimlMf md vtri- «iy of then rvmtitnit Imw ittributcU'them to « colony of W«lBh> or Dftnett #Ko ■rt^rat»|iottd't6 Hkf fbund their wuf by •otnt «ecM«m tO) thk country « «boQt the ninth ««Mury; WIthoat rt* earring to tite imiontng of dbctor Rt»benioir»fttinit the prob«- bHity of tuctv reolbny, f wilt obiervtr, that it ii'ilHiolmeiy impoi* elblv tlVftt tHi;y eottid h«¥« fdined* iueh' ■ (boitng at t htme vettl» gn indicate, ivMioufit tIStf Mrtkt'ri^i toting' others lb«i ei|uU ftKhl. Extefvritig a wiW tiid* to be dliicovered in NbrVir Caro- llht\ hut which, on eitaiAiHalloii, provtd tobe a volcank prodtie- tion, I have nov heard' of a tlngie worH of bricK or stone north of Mexico. The fbrtificatimn iti tne wettcKti country are derold of those marltt which htv» charaoteriied'the European mode of il iifying almott time immemorial t tticy are mere encioauret, without anglen ur baations, and aoldom surrounded by a ditch. The place it usually such as convenience would dictate, or as Is best adapted to the ground t two miles below Pittsburgh, on n Itind of promontory called M^Keo's Hoolis, nearly inaccessible on three sides, there is a fortification formed by a single line on the laud side. They are sometimes, it is true, laid off with reg- ularity, in the form of a parallelogram, semicircle, or square, but most commonly they are irregular. Wo aro ofte» t«ntpted by a foftdnvsa (br tli« mftrwHous, to seek out remote and improbable causes, for that which may be explained by the most obvious. In the eagerness to prove the existence lif the Welsh colony, by uttributing to them these re- nains, we k rget that the natives of the country when first dis> covered by Surttpeans, were universally In the haoit of fortify- ing lii the early vars of the New England colonists with thq Ihdians, we are iiiformed, that Philip, qhief of the Nlphet tribe, defended himself iii a fort which he had constructed, and sufll- dently large to contain two thousand men. Charlevoix, du Pratz, tfid others, relate the particulars of several ideges. A fortifies- ^on la Dite of the first things that would riaturally suggest itself in » war t they have been known to all people ; the same mind which would invent m||^ts of protection for th'i person of a sin- gle individuvl, would also devise the means oi securhy tolargc bodies of inen. It is no dilficult matter to account for the dis- ANTKiUITtni^BOOK It lU ,UM of fortificitUoM Ainoiigtt \3m IrnUaMt wiieo vt contldcr ih0 incradible diminution off thfiir uumberat mkI the Uule uae pi Iheii* furu itgalnikt the .wliUof i ]r«tinlbicjt*t UuU the InflUne were aot itp^uidnted wjtli Ihe tt«e of fonifieiMioni. Ciirver i» Abe Artt who nutlcee tttese fontificMtkoBt •nd.c;Qn»iUer» ihem •• beyond the ingmiujity of thf Indinns. The French iwriteri» who moat pitobubly pbtervcd them, do not apeak of them, a proof that they bad no doubt aa to their origini nor tho^ght of attributing them to utty others than lisadep. l.have au^poaed theae iKeatiget to.be nothing move thiui^ the .aitea of ftaUitadoed .to.wnaiQr vUUge^tjundoot mene lamif ficationa. Thii outtom ^of pialUeiM)mng«4t|)p«iiKa to ^ay« 4»e«Qn ye* ueral amotys .the .northern trAbes; iji js mentioneu by ihe icartiaelt ^ravc^ilcra. ^n iha library of New OrleMiVh 1 iuund two work«.«t preient .put of print» which contributed in cemuvil^j( aU douihl from my mind; th.e 9ne it by («Apiteau, a Learned Jloauit* mA which it lometimea quoted by Dr. Rulaertaonahe pthf:r it a lin- gular mixture of fabie and (40^ by oue I^a Houiou, pubiiaiied 1&7B, bvibre the discovery of the Mia«iM>pp> im iu full vxiqnt. This writer pretend* to have travelled on the part whk^ if »- bovo the Miaaouri. Buih thete works conudn a tmmb^r of CV* riouB engravings, in which) lonongtt pth •> IM VIEWS OF LOUIBIANA. the ntihe of Eviihsv ascerifl^lAiVHIissoari, in ci^lil|ilTiy' whli 'Makef,and retn^fted tyroycats* In thAt country; he spoke both the iui«lent and modem Welsh, asid addressed himself to every / nation between that river • :nd New Spain, but found no Welsh- men. When we r< fleet upon the difftcnltics that such a colony would have to encounter amidst ferocious savages, is it |>rob&. ble, that isolated and unassisted, they could tiave been able to^x- ist ? The history of all the European establishments, inform us, that thejr were- opposed by the natives with f^rtii ferocity. The Welsh would certainly either form considerable establishments, or be totally annihilated ; to exist in a distinct and separate tribe, irithout preserving any of their arts, and without gaining a supe- riority over the Indians, but on' the contrary adopting their knan- ners, is absolutely impossible. Besides the fortifications, there ate other remdns "scattered throughout the western country, much more difficult to ac6oi^nt for, and to which the Welsh can lay no tlaim It is worthy of observation, that all these vestiges invariably occupy the most elii^ible situations for townd or settlementsr; and on the Oliio Mid Mississippi, they are most numerom ind considerable.— There is riot a rising town or a farm of an eligible situation, in whose vicinity some of them niaf not be fbund. I have heard a surveyor of the public lands observe, thai wherever any of these remains were met with, he wus sure to find an extensive body ) ^ of fertile land. An immense population has once been support- ed in this country. These strong holds.--# This is conformable to the history of most nations of the world. /» 'k. ^^. >.0> IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) /. ^ LO I.I i:i|2.8 ■ 50 *■■ ^ m 2.5 2.2 1.8 |l.25 III 1.4 1.6 .< 6" - ► p> #^ s Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) S72-4503 The mounds at Gr^ve creek .^nd Marietta have been fhir nutely described, but in poin^ of in«gnitude vbey FhU fur short of others which 1 have seea To form a more correct idea of these, it -will be necessary to give the reader some vievir of the tract of country in which they are situated. The Jmrrican bottom, is a tract of rich allu" vion 1 .nd, extending on the Mississippi, from the Kaskaskia to the Cahokiu river, about eighty miles m length, and five in breadth; sweral handsome streams meander through it ; the soil of the richest kind, and but little subject to the effects uf the Mississippi floods. A number of lakes are interspersed through it, with high and fine bankt>; these abound in fish, and in the au- tumn are visited by millions of wild fowl. There is. perhaps, no spot in the western country, capable of being more highly cultivated, or of giving support to a more numerous population than this valley. If any vestige of ancient population were to be found, this would be the place to search for it — according- ly, this tract, as also the bank of the river on the western side,*^ exhibits proofs of an immense population. If the city of Phila- delphia and its environs, were i.'^serted, there would not be more numerous traces of human existence. The great number of moundS) and the astonishing quantity of human bones, every where dug up, or found on the surface of the ground, with a thousand other appearances, announce that this valley was at one period, filled tvith hcbitations and villages. The whole face of the bluff, or hill which bounds it to the east, appears to have been a continued buriftl ground. But the most remarkable appearances, are two groupes of mounds or pyrainids, the one about ten miles above Cahokia, the other nearly the same distance below it, which in all, exceed one hundred and fifty, of various sitees. The western side, also, contains a considerable number. A more minute description of those above Cahokia, which I vi«ited in the fall of 1811, will give a tolerable idea of them all. • The Saline, below St. GeneVleve, cleared out some time ago, and deepened, was found to contain tvagoil loads of earthen ware, some fratymenls bespeaking vessels as large as a barrel, and proving that the ifiinea had been worked before they were knovm to the whites.- AKTIQUITIE9.— BOOK II. n? t crossed the Misstsuppi at St. Louis, and after passing through the wood which borders the river, about half a mile in width, entered an extensive open plain. In 1 5 minutes, I found myself in the midst of a group of mounds, mostly of a circular ahape, and at adistance, resembling enormous haystacks scatter^ ed through a meadow. One of the largest which I ascended, was about two hundred paces in circumference at the bottom, the form nearly square, though it had evidently undergone consider- able alteration from the washing of the rains. The top was le- vel, with an area sufficient to contdn several hundred men. The prospeot from this mound is very beautiful ; looking to- wards the bluffs, which are dimly seen at the distance of six or eight miles, the bottom at this place being very wide, I had a level plain before me, varied by isleta of wood, and a few solita- 17 trees ; to the rignt, the prairie is bounded by the horizon, to the left, the course of the Cahokia may be distinguished by the margin of wood upon its banks, and crossing the valley diagon- ally, S. S. W. Around me, I counted forty-five mounds, or pyramids, besides a great number of small artificial elevations ; these mounds form something mor& than a semicircle, about a jnile in extent, the open space on the river. Pursuing my walk along the bank of the Cahokia, I paissed eight others in the distance of three miles, before I arrived at the largest assemblage. When I reached the foot of the princi- pal mound, I was struck with a degree of astonishment, not un- like that which is experienced in contemplatmg the Egyptian pyramids. What a stupendous pile of earth I To heap up such a mass must have required years, and the labors of thousands... It stands immediately on the bank of the Cahokia, and on the side next it, is covered with lofty trees. Were it not for the re- gularity and design which it rnanifests, the circumstances of its being on alluvial ground, and the other mounds scattered around it, we could scarcely believe it the work of human hands.— i The shape is that of a parallelogram, standing from north to south ; on the south side there is a broad apron or step, ab^ut half way down, and from this, another projection into the plaii^ m : H,u ':#■. mi m VIEWS OP LOUISIANA. /> Cbout fifteen feel wide, which was probably intended as an ascent to the mound. By stepping round the base I computed the cir- cumference to be at least eight hundred yards, and the height of the mound about ninety feet. The step, or apron, has been used as a kitchen garden, by the monks of La Trappe, settled near this, and the top is sowed with wiieat. Nearly west there isano- ther of a smaller size, and forty others scattered through the plain. Two ere also seen on the bliilT, at the distance of thr^e miles. Several of these mounds are almost conical. As the award had been burnt, the earth was perfectly naked, and I could trace with ease, any unevcnness of surface, so as to discovet' whether it was artifiQiul or accidental. I every where observed a great number of small elevations of earth, to the height of a few feet, at regular distances from each other, and which ap- peared to observe some order ; near them \ also observed pieces of flint, and fragments of earthen vessels. 1 concluded, that a very populous town had once existed here, similar to those pf MexicO) described by the first conquerors. The mounds wer« sites of temples, or monument^ to the great men. It is evi- dent, this codld never have been the work of thinly scattered tribes. If the human species h.' first employment of a numerous population when not en- gag", d Tn war, would be in heaping up piles of earth, the rudest and most common species of human labor. We find these mounds in ever/ part of the globe ; in the north of Europe, and in Great Britain, they are numerous, and much resemble ours, but less considerable. The pyramids of Egypt are perhaps the oldest monuments of human labor in that country, so favorable to the production of a numerous population. The pyramids of Mexico, which are but little known, and yet scarcely less con- siderable, like those of £<*>rpt have there origin hid in the night of oblivion Hu iboldt is of opinion, that ^* these edifices must be classed with the pyramidal monuments of Asia, of which traces were found even in Arcadia ; for the conical mausoleum X)f Callistus was a true tumulus, covered with fruit trees, and served for a base to a small temple consecrated to Diana." The Greeks, who were successful in the chariot races at the Olym- pic games, to shew their gratitude to their horses, gave them an honorable burial, and even erected pyramids over their graves. The great altar of Jupiter, at Olympia, was nothing more than a huge mound of earth, with stone steps to ascend. Humboldt* re- marks with astonishment, the striking similarity of the Asiatic and Egyptian pyramids, to those of Mexico. The similarity of those which he describes, to the mounds or pyramids on the Mis- sissippi, is still more striking, but not a matter of so much won- der. The only diffc rence is, that a few of the Mexican pyramids are larger, and some appear to have been faced with stone or * See Appendix, No. I. ANTIQXnTlES.— BOOK H. 191 brick. Like those of Mexico, wherever there has been a consid* erable town, we find two large pyramids, supposed to represent the sun and moon, and a number ot smaller ones, to represent the stars. There is very little doubt but that they originated with the same people, for they may be considered as existing in the samo Country. What is the distance between Red river und the north- ern part of the iatendancy of Vera Cruz, in whi :h the pyramid of Papantla is situated ? little more than ten or fifteen days journey. Even supposing there were no mounds in the intermediate space, the distance is not such, as to preclude the probability of intercourse. There is no obstruction in the way; a coach and four has been driven from Mexico to Nacogdoches. The Mexican histories give uncertain accounts of the origin of those works, nor are the antiquarians able to form any satis- factory hypothesis. They are attributed by some to the Toul- tec nation, as far back as the ninth century, who emigrated to Mexico from the north, perhaps from the banks of the Missis- sippi ; and by others, to the Olmec nation, still more ancient, who came to Mexico from the east. A curious discovery, made a few years ago in the state of Tennessee, proves beyond a doubt, that at some remote period the valley of the Mississippi bad been inhabited by a much more civilized people, than when first known to us. Two human bodies were found in a coppe- ras cave, in a surprising state of preservation. They were first wraped up in a kind of blanket, supposed to have been manu- factured of the lint of nettles, afterwards with dressed skins, and then a mat of nearly sixty yards in length. They were clad in a beautiful cloth, interwoven with feathers, such as was manu- factured by the Mexicans. The flesh had become hard, but the features were well preserved. They had been here, perhaps, for centuries, and certainly were of a different race from tho modern Indians. They might have belonged to the Olmec, who overran Mexico about the seventh century, to the Toultec, who came centuries afterwards, or to the Aztecs, who founded th* great city of Mexico, in the thirteenth century. These subjects can only bewilder ; every nation, in tracing back its history, must finally lose itself in fable. The Aztec TMexican) mode qf preserving their chronicles, must necessv- ^ ..P 19^ VIEWS OF LOUISIANA. Tily have been defective ; the Egyptians could lay but little better claim to authenticity. The simple fact of the emigration to the cbuhciy of the Oim !cs, or Toultecs, may be relied on, but as to the time and circumstances, we must look for very slender ac- counts. It is only sutce the invention of letters that we can form 4 well grounded hope of the permanency of human institutions, of the certainty of history, and of the uninterrupted progresj of improvements. Had this noble invention been unknown « liow many of our most useful arts would have been lost during that night of barbarism, c^iied the dark ages ! A French writer has fancifully observed, that civilization arises, de la fermentation dune nomhreuae peufilade^ and that it vouUi be as idle to expect this result without a numerous po* pulation^ as to think of making wine by the fermentation of s^ ■single grape. Experience shews, that a numerous population will always be attended with some degree of improvement, be- cause, bA Mr. Jefferson observes^ the chances of improvement are multiplied. It is not without reason, that the Creator gave bis command to increase and multiply, since many of the intel> lectual £aicuUie« would not otherwise be completely unfold- ed. It is not every country, however, which can of itself attain the full extent of the population of which it may be rendered susceptible. In unftiendly soils and climates, nature must be forced by the arts and labors of agriculture, to afford sustenance for a numerous population- The inhabitants of such have there- fore been usually found in wandering tribes, engaged in con- stant wars, and probably unable ever to originate their own ci- Tilizution. A mighty warrior, at the head of his own tribe, might subdue the tribes around him, and form a little empire, and peace being secured to a great proi^ortion of his subjects, their numbers would increase, but it would fall into fragments, long before the useful arts could be invented. It has ever bren 4n the mildest climates, gifted by nature with plenty, that civili^ nation has had its origin. Egypt and fruitful Asia, first became possessed of a numerous population, and first cultivated the arts and sciences. In America civilization Brst appeared^ in similar «limates, whefre nature, with little help from man, produces a(l^Uhdanc^ of food, In b^th the old and the new world, the ANTIQtnnBS.— BOOE IL t« delefttuJ Vfvk kindled in thbse happjr climes, iroix\A be carried to less favored regions, ^ut thb humaii race has eVerjr where experienced terrible revolutions. Pestilence; war, and the con- vulsions of the globe, have annihiiated the proudJest works, and rendered vain the noblest eiftbrts. Ask not the sage, by whomt and when, were erected those lingering ruins, the " irail me- morials" of ages Which have long since been swallowed up in the ocean of time ; ask not the wild Arab, where inajr be ifound the owner of the superb palace, Within whbse broken walls he casts his tent ; ask not the poor fisherman) as his sjpreads his nets^ or the ploughman, who whistles oVer the ground, where is t^ar* thage. Where is Trbjr, of whose splendor, historiafas and poets have so much boasted ! Alas \ « they have vanished IProm the things that be," and have left but the melancholy lesson, oj^ the insta- bility 6t the mpSt stupendous laborS) and the vanity of ^mm^r*^ tality on earth ! In the Wanderings ot fancy, t iiave somibtin^es conceived this hemisphere, like the other, to have experienced the genial ray of civilization, tod to have been mhabited l^ a niimerous, polite^ ;reat revolutions havi that Mexico, PerU> and enlightened people.* Why may not gret been experienced in America t Is it certaini < * Even this idea, strange and novel as it may Seeid, itiight^ Ky in in- genious theorist, have an air of importance giveii to it^ by bringing in> to view, some va^^e passages of ancietat authors. Hato, ih ebe of bM (dialogues, ispeaks of a j|>eople, whid had coihc frbkh th'o Atliditic in gr*av nunibern j and overran the grieater part of Europe and Asia. Many ^\r^ tuihstances related of the island of the Atlantic, cbtrfetipbnd witK Ame- rica. This occurrenbe, to which Plato alludes, was considered of ^&t bntiiquity, and preserved by obsbure tradition. The island v^aa said to have been sunk by an earthquake. The fact is certain, that araonirSt the Greeks, there prevailed a belief of the existence of another cont'- nent, in the Atlantic dcean, and inhabited by a |>owerful people. Who in remote antiquity, had invaded the old WoHd Amongst the Romans Vho bbrrowed the g^eiatfer Jjart of thei^ learning from the tJreeks, the Same belief prevailed. Seneca hai this remarkable p&^sage : •• Tn ages to cttme, the seas will be traversed, and in spite of the Wind and waves ava- rice and pride will discover a New'AVorldj and Thuie shall be no longer considered ihe extreme part of ihe globe." Mons. Peyroiix has in. a very ingenious essay, rendered it even probable, that the aivcienia had r-% . m A a afi^ Cliiir/wfien nM ^isii^'d by Kurgpeunsr.exInbitiSa ofiiy'^infc duwnof hviiizalion ? t*f niupoit was tlic fif'Tetl^nfjprouch doonK-d tdBuflteVtt ¥clui)8c,lictorc till, sacred nitmc ciJulil' b1rf cxlehdfcd'lo otfief' poi-^tioha bli^iii conlincii't: perhaps, ui some distuht peribtf fht'flumt Hud beeii Widely spiviid, and again ixlTngulbhed ny tKe c^i^Kton cheriiics elf the Viuman ivce. ttut 1 a'ni uskccl, if tnUYTutt'^een tfie cusc, should wu not ice intiubitt^e j>r66fs, ih A^ '!^ema1rtepTai»tKiuItyi cdiificcs o¥ stoned lAiAesV and' luboHoUft ^'6rii3ol Wnian haiids. " I •insWel', that naliiie Is evci' laboi"ih(^ te rcstpre m4sfeif, sfie T» ever enga^eA in ieplaV-.th^ in ft^ Jiilmi- tive Slate, wnat«vcr CTiungcs the haijd of man ipay effectin Mt a{)pcAraJi.ce. Excavations of the earih wpMld be nlkd up by the hs^d of tinr^e,' and pilcif o'^ stoiifc when sep^rattd ^rom the llviiip rock, would ci«nib]e into dust. America may have Tjeen less fdi'tunate'tli^ Euibpc in those happy inventions which serve in some measure lo purpetuuie improvements, apd vei,'ih some o'lf the arts she may liuve attained »( greater exicetlep'ci.' iThe cha- if^ditt dt'^tt ci vuizaiioA'' may have ' been drfttrent from any of l^i*^!^ Vi-e have a'* kiiowledge, and iiefrela'psfc produced by iJ!dVf4Mi)l'\^hich wS^c^ Ibrm! ribtjoi ' ^^■'^Vlfe ^il a§!fe>;ti^ir>feai«y different from that allowed to, what husi been denominated, the • Q^arii^^tSf Mid channels at mighty rivers, una to .her/ vQiK«r«ble mountains, whichmue when the Creator laid thq ;foi^idations;of the e«irttvi Wlum^the eyt^'Ot Eurape first beheld Jier, did »he app^&r bmlM^fyt^littve sprung frbm the «teep^ 'No, ikie t«htdtncd innutiT6r!A)le and pecuHui* plants atitl animdlSi she Vas iivhahlted bv thouscintjsi of Indiaivs. possessing different 'lat)gl>aj^es^ manners, aiijd appearances. C^iapt then, that Ame- TJica may hav,e existed u ip\y, thousand y^rs; the, same causes prevailifxg) U^e effcotfi ivUlbfB produced^ the a«)iue revolutions bcunaequatnted with Amerlda ih Very fctnUie afttitiUity. Plato places ihe destruction k>f the Atlantitl-cs, at nine thdttaand years before hit tame. I'^HJi'- ■. ■ ■:''■■ ANLIQUITIES —BOOK U. 195 AS havft been known in the old world may have taken plac^ here. Before the invention of letters, there would be a constant succession of advances to civiliziition, and of rclupHcs to barba« rism. The Chaldeans, ihrouf^h the glimmer of ancient history, arc represented to us as the first inventors of the arts; but may not those people have been preceded by the same revolutions as have succeeded them. In lon^;^ and arduous advances, they might attain to a great height in civilization, and wars, pesti- lence, or other calamities, precipitate tl»cm to the state of the barbarian or the suvage. It is true, the traci-s of art would long remain undefaced; but they would not remjun forever: Time would obliterate them. «' He grasp'd & .if ro'a antique bust, The marble crumbkd into dust, And sunk beneath the shade." — sbllqck osborne. .Vi TO THE READER. # THE rea'ler will easily discover that this Journal contains lit- tle more than Imsty notes, taken with the intention of being ex- tended and enlarged at leisure : but not regarding nriy voyage of us much importance os I had imagined it would be, when I undertook it, this idea hts been aba'^tloned I might have rela- ted many anecdotes and amusing incidents, quorum magna fiara fui^ confided to memory, and have added many remarks on In- dian masiners. 1 took some pains in making vocabularies of six or seven diflfcrent Indian languages, but being informed, that Lewis and Clark had formed much greater collection» than my opportunities would admit, I have not thought proper to muke v.se of them With respect to the nainrai history of ihe coun- try, I have hopes that Mr. Bradbury will favor the world with the result of his observations. I havo ccMifined myself chiefly to ouch obsetvations on the face of the country, as would give an idea of its capacity for the reception of population. For the table which accompanies, I am indebted to general Clark I take this opportunity of acknowledging my obligations to that gentleman, who politely favored me with every mcaus of information in his power. 'tA^\ ) • till . 07Mi •" J^< JOURNAL Of :iu', ^(ri A VOYACIE, &c. 'I «•■(■ ii CttAFlTEri I. *i> y ».-'-* an JWLr. MaNC^ LtSA, t)f whom t have spoken in the « Views," was cho&cn hy the company, to take tlie mdiia^ement df its affttifft Oft the Missouri, atid Endeavor to rettnevt- thsfn if [io^sliile. 'tht hfofiti exptdtc-cl, otving td a variety of unforeseen iidSfAhlinfes, had not been realized ; indeed, it appeared to be a ptt'ifiiiWn^ opinion^ tiiat the situatidn of the company was dea- pttttik'. Besldcivthe loss by Are, at the Sioux establish mtnt, and thfeltb^iliiy 6f the Blackfoot Indians, the remnant of the com- pWtiy'sWiert, tinder Mr. Henry, had crossed the Hocky moun* tuitiS,'"utitl it WiHl not known what had become of them. To aS- cevtak) tii^A, was therefore another object of the expedition^ and if possible, to carry them assistance. Mr Lisa, also, pri- viittl^ ehtcrtain6d the hope of being able to make peace with the Blackfoot Indians, ind to be permitted to rcniain quietly in the country, which offered the greatest advanta^ji'S to the cotnpai.y. A person better qualified for this arduous undertaking, coul', not have bdien choicft Mr. Lisa is not surpassed by any one, in tfhc r^iquisite experience in Indian trade and manners and haS few equals in perseverance and indefatigubic industry. Ardent, bold and enterprising, when any undertaking is U gun, no dan- gers, or sufferings arc sufBcient to •vercome his mind. I be- \ % ./f.i Soo JOURNAL. Ueve there arc few men bo completely master of that secret of doing much in a short space of timet which arises, from turning every moment to advantage, as will appear in the Course of the Journal. This panegyric is due to Mr Lisa, and it would be unjust in me to withhold it, after the many marks of attention I received from him. Unfortunately, however, from what cause) I know not, the majority of :he ntembers of the company have hot the confidence in Mr Lian^ wnlch he 60 highly merits; but on this occasion, he Was intrusted with the sole direction of their affairs, in some degree, from necessity, as the most proper per- son to conduct an expedition, which appeared little short of des* pcrate. The funds of the company were at so low an ebb, that it was with some difficulty u'Jarge of twenty tons could be fitted out, with merchandise to the amount of a few thousand dollars, and to procure twenty hands and a patron. The members were unwilling to stake their private credit, where prospects were so little flattering. This was also the last year appointed for the continuance of the association, and there was no certainty of its being rene " id. With respect to myself, t must own to the reader, that t had no other native for undertaking a tour of several thotisand miles, througli regions but seldom marked, even by the Wander- ing footsteps of the savage, than the mere gratification, of what he will term an idle curiosity: and I must confess that I might have employed my time more beneficially to myself, and mote usefully to the community. Would that I were able to make some amends, by describing the many interesting objects which \ witnessed, in such a manner as to cnuble the reader to parti- cipate in the agt*ceable parts of my peregrinations* We sef. off" from the village of St. Charles, on Tuesday the 3d of April, 1811, with delightful weather. The flood of March, which immediately succeeds the breaking upol the ice, had be'* gun to subside, yet the water was still high- Our barge was the best titat ever ascended this river, and mantled with twenty stouc oars-men. As Mi- Lisii had been a sea captain, he took much pains in rigging his botit wttli a good mast, and main and tup- sail ; these being great helps in the navigation of this river. Our rquipage, chiefly con)poscd of young men, though several have jotmNAi. SOI uli'^ady made a Voya{i|;b to tlv upper Missouri, of Mrhich tliejr arc exceedingly proud, and on that accoUnt claim a kind of pre cedence over the rest of the crew. We are in all, twevty^five men, well armed, and completely prepared for defence. There in, besides, a swivel oiv the bow Of ihe boat, which, in case of at- tack, WoUld make a formidable appearance i we have also two brass blunderbusses in the cabin, one over my birth, and the other over that of Mr. Lisa. These precautions were absolutely necessary from the hostility of the Sioux bands, who, of late had committed severid r.iurders and robberies on the whites, and manifested such a disposition that it was believed impossible for us to pass through their country. The greater part of the mer'> chandise, Whibth consisted of strouditig, blankets, lead, tobacco^ knives, guns; beads, Stc. was concealed in a false cabin, ingeni- ously contrived for the purpose; in this way presenting as little as poscible to tempt the saVages. But wo hoped, that as this was not tho season for the coming on the Hver of the wanderin^^ tribeii, the fati being the Usual time, we might pass by unnoticed. Mr. Wils\>n P. Hunt had set oif with a large party, about twen- ty^hree days before us, on his way to the Columbia; we anx- iously hoped to overtake him before he entered the territory of the Sioux nation; for this purpose it was resolved to strain eve- ry nerve, as upon it, in a great measure depended the safety of our voyage. i Having proceeded a few miles above St. Ciiarles, we put to shore, some of uur men still remaiiiing at the village. It is cx^ cctdingly difficult to make a start on these voyaged, from the rer luctance of the men to terminate the fiolic wilti their friends, which usually precedes their departure. The/ set in to drink- ing and carousingiand it h impossible to collect them on board. Sometimeft they make their carousals ut the expense of th6 Bourgeois; they are credited by the tavern keeper, vrho knows that their employer will be compelled lo pay, to prevent the de- lay of the voyage. Many vexatious abuses are practised in these casest It Was found impossible to procecu «kny further this even- ing; the men in high glee from the liquor they had drank before stB'ting; they were therefore permitted to take their swing., u; ' ' Db t -SifcS'i'^v .m-^ .roURWLt /> We had on Ijoard a Frenchman named Charbonet, with his* \vifc, an Indian wo uiin of the Suuke nation, both of whom had accompanicti Lewis and Clark to the P^tciiic, and were of great' service. The woman, a good creature, of u mild and gentle dis- position, greatly attached to the whites, whose manners and dress she tries to imitate, but she had become sickly, and long- cd to revisit her native country; her -iiusband, also, who had spent many years amongst the Indians, was become weary of a civilized life. So true, it is, that the attachment to the savage state, or the state of nature, (with which appellation it has com- monly been dignified,) is much stronger than to that of civili- zation, with all its comforts, its refinements, and Its security. Wednesday Afiril 5d. About two o'clock i:i the afternoon, having at length succeeded in getting all hands on; board, wc proceeded on our voyage. Found an excessive current, aug- mented by the state of the waters. Having come about six miles, encamped. In the course of this evening had as much reason to admire the dexterity of our Canadians and creoies, as I hud before to condemn their ftivoliiy. 1 believe an American could not be brought to support with patience the fatiguing labors, and submission, which these men endure. At this season, when the water is exceedingly cold, they leap in without a moment's hesitation. Their food consists of lied corn homony for break- fast, a slice of fut pork and biscuit for dinner, and a pot of mush for supper, with a poUnd of tallow in it. Yet this is better than the common fare ; but we were about to make an extraordinary voyage, the additional expense was not regarded. Thursday Ath. Last night we were completely drenched by the rain ; the whole parly, the bark itself, in a bad condi- tio,! this morning. Weather somewhat cloudy— clearing up.-— A short distance from ouf. encantpment, ihe hills approach the rivii N. E» sine; they are not high, but rocky, and do not con. tinue more than a mile, wlien the alluvion again commencus.— Aiiout 8 a £ne breezo S. £— ^sailed until 12; — passed several plantations S. W. side. The bottoms very ext'^nsive on the low- er part of chis river, the banks high, far above the re ch of in- undation. Timber, principally cotton wood ; a few ot the trees intermixed with it, are beginning to vegetate. The red-buO, J0miN4L '2ttJ the tree which blooms eaiTu'st hi our woods, and so tnlich admi- red by those who descend the Ohio early in the spring, vpptars in A few places. Passed an island where the river widens con- siderably ; the current rapid, obliged to ubttmlon ours and poleS) and take the towing line. Above the island the high land again approaches the river; there is a bsownish colored rock, with a few dwarf cedars growing on the top and in the clefts. In going too near shore, we had the misfortune to have our top mast bro- ken by the projecting limb of a tree. Encamped some distance. This evening serene and beautitul; the sand-bars begin to ap- pear; several deer seen. 1 observed on the sand-bars, a kind of sciiffolds, ten or fifteen feet in height, which I was informed were erected by the neighboring settlers for the purpose of shooting the deer by moon light, which usually come out of the tluckets at this time, to avoid the musketocs and to sport on the smooth beach : the hunter ascends the scaffold, and remains un- til the deer approaches. Came this day about twenty miles; na- vigation comparatively easy. Friday Sfh. Wind S. E. this morning, enabling us to set oif under sail — continued until ten, when it forsook us. Pass- ed several plantations, and two islands. The bluffs disappear on the N. E. side, and are seen on the S. W. for the first time since our leaving St. Charles. They rise about two hundred feet, and are faced with rock, in masses separated by soil and vegetation. These are called the Tavern roclts, from the cir- cumstance of a cave in one of them affording a stopping place for voyagers ascending, or on returning to their homes after a long absence. The Indians seem to have had some venera* tion for the spot, as it is tolerably well scratched over with their rude attempts at representing birds and beasts. From this place, through a /oMg- rcach^ or straight part of the river, we have a distant view of the terminating bluffs N. E. side. A violent storm of rain, wind, and thunder, compelled us to put to shore, having passed a very dangerous and difBcult place. The nomber of trees which had lately fallen into the river, and the danger to be apprehended from others, which seemed to have but a slender hold, rendered our situation extremely disagreea- ble. Towards evening, a canoe with six or seven men passed /^ m ;.i 204 JOVKHklu 4m the other sidci but we were unable to distinguish them. At this plrtce 1 measured a c(>tton*wood tree, which was thirty- six |eet in circumference; they grow lurger on the lower parts of this river, than perhaps any where else in America. The bluffs, in the course of this day appeared higher, but not so ab- rupt or rocky. Saturday 6tA. Having passed a small willow island, we got beyond the hills on the S. W. side. At 1 1 o*clockt the wind became so high, that we were cpmpelled \o stop, as it blew di* rectly down the river. This is near Boon's settlement — AI>out «ixty miles from St. Charles. A number of plantations at the edge of the bottoni. The whid having abuted in the evening, we proceeded a tew miles further, and encamped. Sunday 7th. Water rising. Crossed to the S. \y. side, and encouuteied a very swift current, at the head of the willow island. The difiiculty of this navigation is not easily described. Mude Point Lubadie, so called from a French trader, who for- xnerly wintered here. Forty years ago this was thought a dis- tant point on the Missuuri, at present there are tolerable plan- tations every where through the bottom. The carcases of se- veral drowned buffaloes passed by us; it is said that an unusual numb?r of them hab been drowned this year — Some have been seen floating on the river at St. Louis. A gentleman lately de- scended, declares that he counted forty on the head of an island, Immediately below Point Labadie, the ^•iver contracts its breadth, and is confined to a channel of three or four hundred yards wide. Passed between an island and the ntain shore ; a very narrow channel, but the, current and distance less A channel ol this sort is often taken in preference, and it is one of the means o^ facilitating the ascending uf this uncpmmoniy rapid river: but there is someti^nes danger of the upper en«i being closed with logs and billets of wood matted together, as it turned out in the prt sent instance; fortunately ufier the labor of an 1 our we were able to remove the obstacles, else we should liave been compell- ed to return. Opposite the head of the i»land there is a toh ra- rable log house, and so^ne land cleared ; tiie tenant, a new comer, with a wife and six childrep, had uotljingto give or sell. Hc hands. Monday Sf/i. The wutcr fell last night as much as it ht^d risen. About ten came in sight of a little village N. E. side cal- led Chbrette. There are about thirty families here, who hunt, and raise a litile com. A very long island lies in the bend in which this village is situated. Above this island, passed under a gentle breeze, some very handsome bluffs, S. W. side to the iale aux Boeu/h ; they are about one hundred feet high, and ex- cepting in a few {^aces where rocks appear, covered with oak \%i -^ /i4 206 JOURNAL. and other timber. At this pbce, the river makes a considernbf^ bend Instead of taking the main channel, we entered a smuUer one between the island and the shore, which will shorten the distance; the current not so strong. The channel is about fifty yards wideband very handsome, having clean even banks, andxe- sembling a small river.-— It is about four miles in length. Through all these islands, and on the Missouri bottoms, there are great quantities of rushes, commonly called scrub grass * They grow four or five feet high, and so close, as to render it very disagreeable, as well as difficult, to pass through the woods. The cattle feed upon them in the winter, answer- ing the same purpose as the cane on the Mississippi. At the upper end of the iale aux Boeufsy we were conipeIN ed, about five o'clock in the evening, to put to shore, on account of a violent storm, which continued until after dark. In the bad- ly constructed cabin of our boat, we were wet to the skin : the men were better off in their tents, made by a blanket stretch* ed over twigs. We have been accompanied for these two days past, by a man and two lads, ascending in a canoe. This evening they en- camped close by us, placing the canoe under shelter of our boat. Unsheltered, except by the trees on the bank, and a ragged quilt drawn over a couple of forks, they abode " the pelting of the pitiless storm," with apparent indifference. These people are well dressed in handsome home made co'.ton cloth. The man seemed to possess no small share of pride and self import- ance, which, as 1 afterwards discovered, arose from his being a captain of militia. He borrowed a kettle from us, and gave it to one of his boys. When we were about to sit down to supper, he retired, but returned when it was over; when asked, why he had not staid to do us the honor of supping with us; "I thank you, gentlemen,*' said he, licking his lips with satisfaction, '^ I have just been eatuig an excellent supper." — He had scarcely spoken, when the fiatron^ came to inform Mr Lisa, they were * This is the case for ?everal hundred miles up the Missouri, f The Patron is the fresh water sailing'inaster. J0URT7AU M begging him for a biscuit, as they had eaten nothing for two days 1 our visitant was somewhat disconcerted, but passed it off 'with, « Poh ! I'm sure they can't be suflTcring !" He resides on the Gasconade ; was the second family which settled in that quarter, about three years ago. He has at pre- sent about 350 men on his muster-roll. Wc were entertained by him with a long story of his having pursued some Pottawato- mies^ who had committed robberies on the settlements some time last summer ; he made a narrow escape, the Indiups hav« ing attacked his party in the night time, and killed four of bis men after a desperate resistance. The captain htt on board a barrel of whiskey to set up tavern with, a bag of cotton for his "wife to spin, and a couple of kittens, for the purpose of aug* xnenting his family : these kept up such doleful serenadeay du- ring the night, that I was scarcely able to close my eyes. I' .') ' t :'.)D iii\i CHAPTER II. ' Tuesday 9th. Set off this morning with a light breeze^ which continued to augment until ten, when from a change in the course of the river, it was unfavorable for two or three miles. Passed a number of plantations on both sides, aiid isle a la Lontr; which is about twelve. miles long, and two wide, near the N. £■ side ; it has a compact settlement. In the course of the duy we lost sight of our Captun of the Gasconade, who was not able to keep up with us in his canoe. Passed at four o'clock, the Gasconade, a considerable river> S. W. side, which rises with the Maramek, and has been as- cended upwards of one hundred miles, in canoes ; but its chan- nel is rockj and rough. It is ninety miles from the mouth <>r the Missouri. The lands on its borders arc bj^ken and hilly, and badly wooded. Before readuii^ the Gasconade, we passed jfi s-i 1 ils ym\ iS*-! Wm k:,j wSm uHM ,'' i'!'iai!ii ■ h " «'B9lHII »r. i^Kll ;. lues :^^iiiiii .i! Plain 1 H i ririn!] m II 206 JOUBNAL. long r&n});e of blaffst or rather hills, well covered With wood, but tertninatini)^ at the entrance ct the river in rocky precipices ; this range appears again on the other side of tne Gasconade..^ There is a very long reach here, of fifteen or twenty miles ; the Gasconade hills, on the S. W. side, are washed by the Missouri the whole of this distance. This day wus sufficient to prove the efficacy of-our sails, in navigating this rivet- ; we passed with ease, places much worse than any we had enrottntered since leaving St. Charles. Encamped six miles above the Gasconade} heavy rains lust night. Wfdnesday XOth. Cloudy — crossed to the bluffs. N E side, ^ nich are high and rocky. Passed Montbrun's tavern and riVer; another stopping place for voyagers Passed an (ftttbatran, N £• side, the most difficult since we started. There are wide bottoms above these biuffit, on both sides of the river. The wind against \js throughout the whole of this day The verdure is observed to be rapidly increasing ; the smaller trees and shruiis are alrea- dy in gay green. From the color of the water on the S W side, h appears that the Osage river is paying the annual tribute. Thursday llth. A fine morning. Current so strong S. W. side, from the waters of the Osage, that we were pompcllfd to cross to an island. Hills on th^ -Ifi: £. side, not high or locky : continued on this side to ascend throughout the day, though -with difficulty, on account of numerous embarras, and fulling m of the banks. This is a fine country : the lands extremely rich, and covered with a great vitfiety of trees. Stopped a f w mo- ments at the cabin of a Frenchiban, who is beginning to opeii a plantation. In company with the interpreter^ 1 proceeded by land, across a point, a'uOUt two miles to the village^ of Cote «an« Deesdn, where we arrived nearly three hours before the burge. \Ve inquired with eagerneas after the party of Mr. Hunt; we were informed that he hud passed this place twenty-one days Ago. Thus far, it appears that we have gained but two days up- wi him. • T' ... . 'J .u;w ^^jj-i ^ijiuv; ^t-bu . . ' .' Fridatj \2th. Weather line-i«a gentle Bi^e'sie on the river firom S. E. Remained here until eleven, engaged in repairing mir cnUn, Mr. Lisa here employed a fauaaous httuterj.named Journal. aofl tastof, a Kansas Indiani who had been brought up from infancy amongst the whites. The Cote safia Deaann^ is a beautiful place, situnted on the N. E. side of the river, and in sight of the 0:>age. It will in time become a considerable village. The beauty and fertil- ity of the surrounding country cannot bo surpassed. It is herd that we met with the first appearance of prairie, on the Missou- ri, bui it is handsomely mixed with wood land. The wooded country on the N. E. extends at least thirty miles, us far up as this place, and not Ibss than fifteen on the other side. The name is given to this place, from the circumstance of a single detachr* ed hill filled with limestond, standing on the bank of the riveri about six hundred yards long, and very narrow. — The village has been established about three years; there are thirteen French families, and two or three of Indians. They have handsome fields in the prairie, but the greater part of their time is spent in hunting. From their dager inquiries after merchandise, I perceived we were already remote from the settlements. We continued under way, with a light breeze, but scarcely Sufficient to waft tfie barge of itselfj without the aid of oars.-^ Handsome wooded upland, S. W- side^ gently sloping to the liver, and not rocky. For many reasons, I would prefer these situations to the bottom, where the soil is richer. Passed the Great Osage river, one hundred and thirty-three miles from the mouth of the Missouri, and navigable about six hundred mileS. There is much fine land immediately on its borders, but the prairies stretch out on either side, and to the westward are al- most boundless. The Osage villages are situated about two hun- dred miles u^^ Passed a long island, called L'iale of Cedre^ Cedar island. A number of islands on the Missouri bear this name, from the growth of cedar upon them, in this particular, differing from the islands of the Mississippi. In this island the best part of the wood had been cut down, and rafted to St. Louis, to supply the settlements with this wood, of which there is a great cou« sumption. Throughout the course of this day, we found the navigation less arduous and painful ; owing principally to the failing of the c c i ■;*i„ f 'm '■'^M m m :^io JOCRNAt. /^ Waters, and to oiiP Uaving ptisscd one of ihose rivers which atki to the current oi'thc Mibbuuri. The suiid burs, bc;u;iit to pre&cnt a ptcaaing uppcMrdiicc ; several miles in length, clean *m smooih. Insttiid oi uscciiUing along cither bide, wc pursued the middle of the rivev, ulon^^ the sand ba<'». Encamped N. C side, just iibovu the Cedur isLnd. The bius and the sides of the rivur are cverj where ?harked with deer trucks. ^'acurdctf \^fh. A fine morning — somewhat cool — set ofT with a tuvorable brJStae. Passc'l hills on the S. W. side— saw five or six deer sporting on a sand bar. Passed the Manitoo r^ocks, S. W. side, a la Bonne Fe7n)Ke creek. Tlie country here- about, is delightful ; the ifpland sloping gentlf to the river, tim- bered with oak, hickory, ash, 8cc. The lands on this stream are ^lild not to be siirpassed by uny in the tert-iiory. After havmg had a favorable wind the greater part of the tliy, ehcattipcd at thfc Roche /lercve, perforated rock; a high cragg^ feliff on the N. E. side. This is the narrowest part of the river I have yet sfeeh ; it is scarce^ two hundred yards wide Made in the course Of this day about twenty-eigiit miles, for TVhich Wb >fere indebted to the lavbruUle wwid. Some of us con- sidered this good fortune, - reward for the charity which was manifested by OS yesterday, in speniting an hour to relieve a poor bxt which was swamped near the bunk. The poor creature had Remained lierie ten oi* twelve days, and the Sand into which he had siinki wais become hard and solid. The wolves had paid him friendly visits ft-om time to ikne, to iniquire after ids health, while buiiards, croW^^ and ea'glesr, lendci'ed their salutations frotij the boughs bf the neighboring trees. Sunday \4ih. Violent wind all night — ^hoisted sail before ^ay light, in order to raWe advantage of the wind. Pussed the Maniton on the N. E. Side,attd high rocks. A delightful coun- try. Wind slackened about ten% At twelve, came hi sight of the hills 6f Mine river, resembling those of the Gasconade. At t^re'e, the Swind again rose— passed the Mine river, S. W side. "This river is not navigable more tlwn ten or twelve miles Va- luable saltworks are es» Jjlished here. The wiiole of this day "we fouhd rich and extensive bottotns, N. E, side, and beautiful sloping nplaiid^ 9» W. on this side of the river some beaii- JOUnKAL. 311 xiM situations for farms and pUiotutions. The lulls nsc tvitli a moat deliufluful ascent from the water's c;e, to the height of forty or fifty feet ; the vvoods open utmI handsome. The lands on. the Mine river, reputed excellent. The bouoms on th<- N. E. side the Missouri, ancomnvonly fine. There is a llour« ibhing settlement here. As this is Sunday, the ("ood people were dressed out in tlieir best clothes, and came in groups to the bank to gaze upon us, as we paascd by uAder sail. We put to shoie, at the farm of Braxtpn Cooper, a worthy man, who has the management of the saltworks. The settlement is but one year old, but is already considerable, and increasing rapidly ; it consists of seventy-five fumilies, the greater part Jiving on tho bunk of the river, in the space of four or five miles. They arc, generally, persons in good circumstances, mobt of them have slaves. Mr. Cooper informed me that the upland, back, is the mostbeautiful ever beheld. He thinks that from the mouth of the Missouri to this place, t|ie country for at least forty miles from the river, may bear the character of fich woodland t the prairies forming but trifling proportions. This place is two hun- dred miles up. We inquired .for the party of which we were in chase — they had passed by mneteeni\a,ys before us. Monday ISth. Sain last night, but without lightning — from this it is prognosticated tliat the wind will continue favorable to) day. Set off with a fair wind,.butthe course of the rivorbecame utifavorable. At half past seven, again fair — continued under sail until. twelve. Passed handsome upUtnd S. W. side, and.the two Chareton rivers N. £ iiad to oppose in the course of the day some very difBcult placet.— ole at which she had entered, about twenty feet up. In a short time she. put out her head and shoui« ders, but on receiving a volley,. instantly withdrew. The chop- ping was renewed ; madam Cuff again ap})f ared, and was salu^ as; beforev but without producing the same effect, as she leisutC- ly crawled doarn the tree, and attempted to make off, amidst' the shouts of fifteen or twenty barbarians, who were bent on the 4ey> structioivof a mother and. her little famiky. She was killod witb /* • '1^ ' hi %1 819 JfOiniNAU f fctroke of an axe. hiving been pteviousljr severely wounded. |n the hollow syctunurc, there were found three cubs At fivct hoisted tiiii' ;«iid continued until seven, having this day nmde tW(MUy-ei'^»i( milei. 't owurds evening, passed beat! liful undujA- ting hills, gently sloping to the river. What charming situa- tions for seats and farms ! Tueuday \6f/i. 3et off without wind— rthe river rising. At f level), the wind so much against us Uiat we were obliged to lie by> At three we coniiuued our voyage, and as it was resolved to tow, 1 set out with niy rifle, expecting to meet the boat at the head of a long ocud. This h the Biiit excursion I have made in« to tne country « p.:ni>:cd throuj;!) the bottom with great difficul- ty, on uccount of the rubhes, which grow as high as a man's head, 9nd jre matted with vines and briarti. The beauty of the upland in some degcoe recompensed. Clean and open woods, growth, Qitk, hickory, Qcc ; the grass beginning to appear green. Saw se- Yeral deer, and abundance of turkcyb. We are now in a country lyhich ttbounds with game. 1 cume Ltc m the evening to the boitt, 1 having been supposed lost ui the woods. Our hunter, liau been more successful than I, havii>.g killed a she bear with four cubs. The riyer very crooked in the course of this day.— !Fai»;:! some places pf tlUn woods— not quite prairie, on the bank of the riyer. fVednenetay 17 (it. Breakfiisted under sail. Passed the Grand rivei, N> £• side. It is two huudn d yards wide at i^.s mouth ; a TO-y long river, navigable six or eight hundred miles, and tukes ifs waters with the river Dca Moinen. The traders who were in the habit of visiting the Mahas, six hundred mites above this on Uti Missouri, were formerly compelled to ascend this river in order to avoid the Kotssas Indians, who were tlien the robbers of tiit' Missouri There is a portai^e of not more than f couple of days, troni the Grand river to the Mahas. ■ ',^(sAt the confluence on the lower side, there is a beautiful sit< Qati|»n, I'he bottom is a handsonte pruiiie, which is seen extend* ingi for the first time on the Missouri, to chc wutti's edge, *nd ahoMt A mi}e in width; the upland then risen with a gentle us- c«iu, vrith here and there a ft^w clumps of trees. Immcdjatety ^H)K point of junction^ there arc about ^ly acres of well tim* JOtmH-^L. tu bered land Here it a delighttul situation for a village t the dit<* lance ubout two hundred and forty milet» from the mouth of the Mibsouri There is some beautiful country tying on the Grt^nd river, but deficient in wood. In fuct, this rivei niuy almost be considered the boundtfi7 of the woodtd upland on that side of the river. Here the wind failed us. The Missouri very wide; a large bsr in the middle. The b The situation is fine. At a distance, the deep green herbage on this open ground had much the appearance of u wlicat ficid. Encamped late, after having got through a channel with con- siderable difficulty. IMiu kIowdcss with which we have advanc- ed for several Aayn past, forms a conl^asl witli those which pre- ceded. Water rising. Saturdu'i 20ih A cold disagreeable morning. The men drenched by the heavy rain ot !i«ht night. Moisted sail about six, buitne wind served us but v. shovi dis'ance — Weather clearing up — put to shore for on hour to jIi y c ur tti':ct8. Handsome hills on the S. W. side. Got under way ut tliiee) along the N. £. 214 JOURNAl, side. One of the -finest tracts of land I have se«n— a grc^at prp^ portion of the -timber is walnut* ipoplar, and cotton wood, of enor- mous size. Entered a channel, at the upper end of which, Tired upon arflock of several hutidred pelicansj standing on a shoal.— llhese birds abound very much on the Missouri) but, aiHs shy.*-- We daily kill wild fowl, ducks, geese, brandt, &c. — which as- cend the rtver at this season of the year, to breed. Their eggs ars found at every raoraentvon Uie sand bars. Munday 2ist. h df^lightf ul moening, though somewhat cool. Got under way eavly«— passed through ;the chann^lr and crossed over:to the S. W. side. Had some difficult tmbarraa, but no great 'ourrent. After breakfttist, took my gun, and struck into the woods. On ascending the hills about two hundred feet in height, I had a fim view up and down the river On the other side, (K E) there is an extensive prairie bottom, apparently four or five miles wide.; and a I found the, soil of the upland of an excellent quality---and. notwithstanding the r<*vages committed by 'fire,; the woods, principaliyhickory; oak, walnut, ash, Sec wtjre tolerably close. Returned to the boat about four, in the evening. We spent an hour and an half this evv^ning,in grappling around some rocks of free stone, the distance of a few hundred yards. Tiie swift- -ness of the current on the other side rendered it impossible to attempt it there— -Encamped some distance above an encamp- ment of Mr. Hunt, which appeared not more than te" '^r twelve /days ol<'. Monday 22cf. Continued until eleven, with ct^fdelley or tow- ing line~»4he banks being favorable. The hills, or blufis, are here, itbout one hundred feet high, and rise abruptly from the fiver. Wind from S. S. W. beconving too strong;, were com- JOURNAL^ 31^ pelted to lie by until three. Crossed to the N. E. side, aad en- deavored to ascend between ttie shore and an island, but found a saiid bar running across, at the upper end, so that we were oblig- ed to buck, and encamp nearly opposite the place of starting. Tueaduy 23d. Very high wind this morning. Doubled the island which had been the scene uf so much vexation. Endea- vored to proceed on the outside, but met with so many difficul- ties, that we were compelled to cross to the S. W. side. Tow- ed to Ibar's channel and island->^then re-crossed to the N. E. side, and found ourselves about two miles above our last night's encampment. Remained here until three, wnen the wind some- what abated its violence. Having arrived opposite the Wizzard's island, (L'isle du Sorcier) crossed over and encamped. The superstitious boatmen believt that a wizzard inhabits this island ; they declare that a man has been frequently seen on the sand beach, at the point, but that he suddenly disappears, on the approach of any one. These few days have been in a manner lost, from contrary winds, and bad weather. Heavy rain this even- ing — Musketoes begin to be troublesome, for the first time dur- ing our voyage. Wednesday 2ith. Attempted a ripple this morning, and were driven back five times — we had once got withl.» half the boat's length of being through ; the oars and poles were insufficient; ten of our men leaped into the water with the cor- delle, while the rest of vs exerted ourselves with the pole : and thus by perseverance became conquerors. This ripple, like all others of the Missouri, is formed by high sand bars, over which the water is precipitated, with considerable noise This bar has been formed within two or three years. The bend formerly aU most impassible from the swiftness of the current, is now toler- able. There is lieldom any great current on both siiks ; the fall- ing in of the banks indicates the current to be there. Wherever the river has a wider channel than ordinary, there is usually a sand bar in the middle. This extraordinary river sometimes pursues a straight course for ten or fifteen miles, then suddenly turns to every point of the compass: In other places, the whole volume of its waters is compressed into a channel of two or three hundred yaris: agmin suddenly opening to the width of one, or ^ / m •p i J^16 joimv\L. even two miles, with isknidH and sand bars scattered through the space. Passed a canoe with four men, who had wintered up the Kan-' sas, about five hundred miles: they had beaver, and other turs* They could give no information respecting Hunt's party :— we conclude he must have passed that river before they came out of it. From the violence of the wind, made but a few miles. While Castor was out, he saw a white turkey, but was not so fortunate as to kill it. I am told that they have sometimes been seen of this color; but I suspect it is Kara avis in terr'is, nigroque slmillimft cygno. Thursday ^Sth. Contrary winds, but not such as to prevent us from continuing our voyage tolerably well. About eleven^ came in sight of Fort Osage, situate on a bluff, three miles ofT'^ Oh a rommahding eminence. We stopped sometime at the clearing of Mr. Audrain, who is about opening a farm bt> low the fort. A number of Indians Of the Osage nation, of all ages, and sexes, were scattered along the bank, attratted by curiosity-^ some with old buffaloe rob6s throwi) over their shoulders, others dressed out in the gayest mannel*. They gathered round us in crowds, and manifested ah idle curiosity, very different from the Indians who live east of the Mississippi, one of whose clm- teristics, is a studied indifference^, as to every thing strange Inrhich transpii'es around them. On landing at the fort, on a very rocky shdrei, a soldier unt^ der arihs, who waited for Us at the water's side, escorted Mr. tiisa and myself to the fort, where we were politely rfcceiveU by the commanding officer. VVhile Ml". Lisa Was transacting Some business, atcompd- nied by Mr. Sibiy, the factor, ahd an interpreter, I ^ent to deliv- er a pipe to Sana Oreille, (a warrior, and head man Of this tril)e) sent to him by gen. Clark. He received us, seated on a mat, and after smoking in the usual manner, r.qiK bied the inicrprc- fer 10 iiiform me "that he was the friend of the Americans, aud itOURNAL. Sfef that Ke ina flattened with this proof of -geti. blark^s gbod \rhi , towards him." He was surrounded by a number of young war- riors, who appeared to h>ok upon hira with great respect. This roan, though not a chief, is evidently intriguing to be the head of his tribe, and has great iufiuence With them : the chie^ Youngp i White Hairs, having but little to entitle him to respect from lu» own character, being extremely young) and of a gentle disposi- tion. Sana Oreiiteyas is usual with the ambitious amongst these people, is the poorest man in the nation : to set the heart upon goods Mid chattels, being reckoned indicative of a mean and nar- row soul t he gives away every thing he can obtain, in order to procure popularity. Such is ambition ! Little know they of this ' state of society, who believe that it is free from jealou^ ies, envy» detraction, or guilty ambition. No demagogue-^^-no Cataliney ever used greater art and finesse, or displayed more policy than this cunning savage. The arts of seducing the multitude are nearly the same every where, and the passion for power and dis« tinctiou, seems; inherent in human nature. He is a tall &ne look- ing man, possesses very superior abilities^ and is esteemed the best warriof of the village* The fort is handsomely situated, about one hundred {ee% above the level of the river, winch makes an elbow at this place* giving an extensive view up and down the river. Its form is tri* angular; this fort is small, not calculated for more than a com>' pany of men. A group of buildings is fcMrmed by the factory, suttler's house, 8ec. The lodges o£ the Little Os^e, are sixtjr ' in number, and within gun shot of the fort; but they tare about \o remove their village to a prairie, three miles off Their lodges are of a circular form, not more than ten or fifteen fact in dia- meter, constructed by placing mats, mad« o£coatrse rushes, ov«r forks and poles. All three of the Osage bands, together with some Kansasi were lately encamped here for the purpose of trading, to the number of fifteea hundred warriors. The officer hiformed me, that about ten days ago, serious apprehensions hud been enter- tained from them. A war party, of about two hundred, having scaiped a few women and chiKiien,ot the Ayuwus, their enemies, had returi^ed so elated with this exploit, that they insulted the od .i'^l M 318 JOURNAL. people of the fort. One of these warriors defied a centinel on his post; the centinel was commanded to fire over his head, this producing no effect* he was seized by a file of men. This he at first treated with indifference, declaring^, that if he was confined, he would get someof the wliitemen^S breads his tune was chang- ed, however, by a liberal application of the cat o' nine tails to his back. Great commotions amongst the Indians were excit- ed; they rushed forward with their arms; but the soldiers no sooner paraded and mude ready a few pieces of cannon, than they thought proper to retreat. They nMintained a threatening attitude for some days, and to give vent to their spite^ killed a pair of fine oxen, belonging to Mr. Audrain. The officer sent for the chiefs, and told them, that unless two others were given for the oxen, he would instantly fire upon their village. This spirited deportment had the desired effect, the chief complied, and after some counselling, the pipe was smoked) and all matters adjusted. I'hese Indians are not to be compared to the nations east oP the Mississip{H; although at war with most of their neighbors, they are a cowardly race. One good trait, however, deserves to be mentioned ; they have rarely, if ever, been known to spill the blood of a white man:— .When a white hunter is found on their lands, they take away his furs and his arms, be is then beaten with ramrods, and driven off. Mr. Sibly informed nrie, that he was just setting out on a tour towards the Arkuisas, to visit the saliites,* on that river, and also to the Kansas and Platte, to sec the Punt nation. Thus far we have gained about one hundred miles upon the party of Hunt—we are in good spirits, and will renew the pur- suit with augmented vigor. This place is something better than three hundred miles up the Missoari, in lat. 38*> 40'. • In the Appendix, there will be found, an eXlf act from the Journal' ef Mr. Sibly's tour. JOURNAL. 219 CHAPTER III, Friday^ 26^A JfirU. Heavy ruins last night, dur sltuatloiji extremely uncomfortable. This morning we were awakened about daylight, by the most hideous bowlings I ever heard.— They proceeded from the Osagesi among whom this is a cus- tom. On inquiry, I found that they were unable to give any sa- tisfactory reason for it; I could only learn, that it was partly reli- gious, and if it be true, as is supposed by many, that they offer their worship only to the Evil Spirit, the orison was certainly not U4iworthy of him. I was told, also, that it arises from another cause ; when any one, on awaking in the morning, happens to think of a departed friend, even of some valued dog or horse, which has been lost, he instantly begins this doleful cr}', and all the others hark in, as soon as it is heard. About eleven o^clock, clearing up, but wind very strong from the S. W . we set off with it, blowing cfirectly in o^ir faces.-— About twelve we put to shore and remained for more than two houi'^. Crossed to the N. £■ side, and continued olir voyage.-— Towards evening the weather moderated, l^assed a small en? campment of hunters. The Missouri is now lyhat the Ohio was once, the Paradise of hunters. Made nine miles to daf. The water is at a good stage for ascending ; the navigation beconies more agreeable. Weather somewhat cooj. We have now passed the last settlement of whites, and pro- bably will not re-visit them for several months. This reflection caused us all to think seriously of our situation. I iilmost re- pented of having undertaken this voyage, without an object ia view, of suitable importance. Our m^n were kept from think- ing too deeply, by the cheering songs, which were ^ncoviraged by Mr. Lisa, and the splashing of the o«rs, which kept time with them. So far removed, I seemed to look back, as from an emi- nence ; thus abstracted, 1 fancied that I contemplated my coun- try with more accuracy than I could while protected in its bq- som. I heaved a sigh, when I reflected that I might never see it, or my friends again ; that my bone> might be deposited op some i\ MO JOURNAL. dreary spot, fur from my home, and the haunts of civilized man ; but this last, suggebtcd u consolation, there is no spot however distant, where I may be buried, but will in time, be surrounded by the habitations of Americans, the place will be marked, and approached with respect, as contauiing the remains of one of the ^rst who ventured into theiie distant and solitary regions ! Saturday '•27 th. We are once more to be somewhat favored, This is a delightful morning, though cool. Set off at daylight, ^nd at six, had a light breeze from east. Passed Vincent's island, above which the river is extremely narrow, and hills S. W. side. About eleven, met a party of traders in two canoes lashed toge- ther, which forin a kind of raft, heavily laden with furs, and skins. They came from the Sioux, who, they say, are peaceably dispos- ed. They met Hunt's party, five days ago, at the lattle Nime- ha ; it proceeds slowly, and had two days of contrary winds.—o The traders think we shall be able to overtake them at th : river Platte. — Hunt informed them that they would meet us below the Grand river. Wind fell shortly after leaving this party. Th4 jgood news we have heard, animates our men very much. Towards evening, passed Benito's island and sand bar, S. W. side, so called, from a trader of that name having been robbed by the Ay u was of his peltry, and he, wuh his men, forced to carry pnormou9 bqi dens of it on their hacks, to the river des Moinesi. Instances of such insults were formerly very usual » several spots have been shewn to me where like acts have been com- mitted, and even accompanied with murder. Having come within two leagues of the Kansas river, we encamped. Large sauti bars begin every where to appear. Sunday 28/A. A cool morning, and somewhat foggy on the I'iver-r-A light breeze from the east, but not sufficient to enable VIS iq Carry sails. Passed high land N. £ side, with $ome rocks pn the shore ; we are constantly delighted with the gentle hills, or rather elevated upland of the Missouri. On a large sand bar, suw nearly thirty deer. They tvre very numerous on this part of the river. Passed the Kansas, a very large river which enters on the S. W. {»ide. It heads between the Platte and the Arkansas.— \f be country on its borders^ is entirely open. The river can be JOURNAL. m ^acetided with little difficulty, more than twelve hundred miles. Tiic KdivsaR nation of Indians, reside upon it. In the evening^ we passed the Utttie river Platte, navigable with Canoes fifty or sixty miles, and said to abound with beaver* We encamped near a mile above it, having made about fiiteen mi Iff s. !j{{ n/{') • In the course of this day, we find the f'iver, in moat placcS) extremely narrow, and the sand bats very extensive. Monday 29th. Somewhat cloudy this morning— 'A light breeze from the S. E. At seven, breakfasted under sail. At nine, reached a bcauiiful island, called Diamond island, fifteen miles above the Kansas. From this, there u a long reach of six or eight miles. The wei^ther is fine— the breeze still con* tinuing. At three o'clock we had made twenty-four miles. The wind, from the, change of the course of the river, could not serve us'. We lost two hours in passing one of the most difficult places I hiave seen on the river; after which) ve had a fair wind again» until night- Passed in the course of this day, some beautiful country on both sides: the upland chiefly S. W and a greater proportion of prairie than we have yet seen. The river generally narroWf and the sand bj^rs of great extent Having made about thirty miles, we encamped a short dis- tance below Bu£Faloe island, opposite a range of hills, and at the upper end of a long view. During the whole of the day, we saw astonishing quantities of game on the shore ; particularly deer and turkeys. The buffaloe or elk are not yet seen. rueadaxf ZOtk. Last night there was much thunder an4 lightning, lut little rain. At day light embarked with a favor* able wind, which continued until seven, when, from the course of the river, the wind failed us for an hour. The river extremely crooked. Mr. Lisa and m vself went on shore, and each killed a deer. There were great numbers of them sporting on the sand bars. There are great quantities of snipes, of a beautiful plu- mage, being a curious mixture of dove color, and white. I saw one of a different kind, which waft scarlet underneath th« ving^. 'h 198 JdUR^XL. •*'*•' At two o'clock we hoisted sail at the beginning of a long reach, to the great joy of the whole company. High prairies S. W. side— continued under sail through another long reach, and had a view of the old Kansas village, at the upper end of it. It is a high prairie ; smooth waving hills, perfectly green, with a few clumps of trees in the hollows. But for the scarcity of tim> ber this would be a delightful sit\!<\tion for a town At this place, the bend of the river rendered the wind unfavomble. -. Continued under oars about 3 miles further, having in the course of this day made thirty three miles. Wednesday ^ \at May. Very high wind all last night. Em- barked this morning about daylight, and continued under sail until six o'clock. Upland N. E side, thihly timbered. It may be remarked, that the hills of the Missouri are not so high as those of the Ohio, seldom rocky, and Hse more pleasantly from the water's edge. Continued under sail until eleven, ivhen we were brought off by a considerable bend in the river. Passed St. Michael's prairie, a handsome plain in front, with variegated hills in the back ground, and but little wood. At two o'clock we Came to a very great bend in the river, but did not get through \intil evening. The river from being narrow, change's to an un- usual v^idti ; and very shallow. We were detained about an bour, having been so unlucky as to run aground. Saw but one or two deer to day, as we approach the open country their numbers will be found to diminish, tficre being no thickets to shelter them. They are said to lessen perceptibly from Nodawa river upwards. In the evening, the weather, which has been for some days cloudy, cleared up, and the wind abated entirely : the Missouri and its scenery appeared in their natural state. The wind also became calm, and seemed to harmonize with nature. The river is falling fast, approaching to a low stage of water— came to day twenty-seven miles. : :-.. iui^ -z . Thursday 2d. Embarked at' ^^ayli^ht, the river uhruffled by a breeze ; the birdt, as if rejoicing that the strife of the elements had ceased, tun6d tiieir sweetest notes. At seven o'clock, breakfasted opposite some bluffs N. E. side. A very large mass appeareil at no distant perioq, to have JOURNAU .'34'' dipped into the river, leaving a clay precipice fifty or sixty feet luKh A little above, there are rocks of freestone at the edge of the water. Below this place, there is an extensive prairie, partly river bottom, and partly upland, with a considerable riv- ulet passing through it. What a delightful 6ituation for a farm, or even a town ! Description of such a country as this, can give no idea of its peculiar character. The hills, or bluffs, begin to appear, thinly wooded with dwarf trees, principally oak or ash. In the evening arrived at Noduwa channel, on the N. E. itide, and about five miles in length. Friday 3d. A beautiful morning; set off at daylight as usu- al, and passed the wintering ground of Crooks and M'Clelland/ some distance above Nodawa. High hills on the S. W. side, with some bold places, and fine land on the N. £. side. In the afternoon passed Wolf riv- er, fourteen miles from Nodawa. Shortly after this, a breeze from N. £. enabled us, from the course of the river, to sail four or five miles. Passed a large prairie S. W. Mde, and encamped at the commencement of another. In these places there is not even a shrub to the water's edge, the bottom of considei*able width : the grass very luxuriant. Saturday Ath. Heavy rain last night, and drizzling this morn- ing. Passed an extensive lowland prairie, above our encamp- ment. At half past eight, passed an encampment of Hunt. In the evening passed the Nimeha and Tarkio creeks, and encamp- ed a short distance above. I overheard this evening, with considerable chagrin, while AVarming myself at the fire, some bitter complaints on the part of the men : they declared that it was impossible for them to stand it long, that they had never so severe a voyage. This dis- content was of Course excited by some Thersitea of the party.— Great exertions have certainly been made and no moments lost, in advancing our voyage, but much of the time we were carri- ed along by the wind, when there was no need for any labor on the part of the men. The weather is now fine, and their labor diversified, when there is no wind, by the pole, the cars, or cor- delle, which is little more than a promenade along th9 sautl bars. «. tfmm sm JOUENALi I represented these ihings to them as well as I could, and co^ dcavored to quiet their minds. Sunday St A Passed an encampment of Hunt this moriiing. The sun shone out, but the air wm cool--wind from N. E. but not so bard as to form any great obstacle. In tlie evening hail- ed two men descending in a bark canoe ; they had been ot Huui's party, and had left iiim on the 2d t>f May, two days above tlio Platte, at Boyer's river. They had fair wind it seems all the wuy up- Thus, it seems we have gained upon them as much as wo expected. The weather very fine throughout the day, encamped in the evening at the upper end of a liandsome prairie, opposite a large sand bar. Mondaxj 6th. About ten this morning, passed a river called Nis-na-botona, after which there are some long reaches vtry fa- vorable for sailing. At four o'clock arrived at the little Nxne- ha, the course of the river here is for a considerable disuDcc nearly N. £.-— Wimf being N. \V. were enabled to hoisi !>ail» but having proceeded about a mile, a squall suddenly sprung up from the N. we were compelled with all despatch to take in sail, and gain the shore S. W. side. Here a dreadful storm ra^cd during the remainder of the evening, and the greater part of the night. Our encampment is at the edge of a large prairie, but witli a fringe of wood along the bank of the river. The greater part of the country, particularly on the S. W. side, * now entirely •pen. The grass is at this time about six inch .*s high. Tuesday 7th. Continued our voyage at daylight, tlie weath* er fine, though son^ewbat cool. Wind still continues N. W.— • Passed an island and sand bar, and towed along a prairie S. side for nearly a mile. This prwic is narrow, bt^nded by hills somewhat broken and stony. At ten o'clock arrived at VisLe a^ beau soieil; the wind here became so high that we proceeded with great difficulty. In the evening, arriving at the head of the island, were compelled \ja put to shore. Mr. Lisa seized this opportunity of replacing his inast, by a young oak which he found in the wood along the sh«jr9» All liaftds were set to work on it, in order that it might jotmNAt. 8Si be teady the next day. Thii wm rcndeired hecetsftry tn account of the old one having fi^ven way. I took this opportunity of making an excuraion into the country— ^aicended the hilla or bluffs, which, though ateep, are hot much more than two hundred feet aboTe the level of the riv'* er, and command prospects of great extent. I could aee the meandering course of the river, between the two ranges of hillSf or more properly of h'.gh land, for thirty or forty milet. Some of these hills are cut into precipices forty or fifty feet high) without any appearance of stone. It is a tight yellow co- lored earth) with a considerable mixture of sand. There is an immonse extent of prairie on both sides of the river. The hills are not always abrupt, but in many places rise gently, and are extremely beautiful. The river hereabout is very crooked: in following the hills, along whioh there is an Indian path, I could go to a point up the river, which will most probably be our place of encampment to morrow night. On my return to the boat, killed some pigeons and wild ducks, and saw a flock of turkeys. , Wedneaday 8M. Last night having finished our mast, we had it put up this morning before day, and at daylight set off* on out voyage. Weather cool, but no wind) and the sun apparently re* gaining his empire. Passed through a country in the course of this day, chicflf open, with very little wood. The river very wide i in one place it appeared to me nearly two miles. Encamped at the fulling in banks, or grand ebouimenti "Wind has entirely abated. Thursday 9th. Set off at daylight—continued a short dis* tance under sail with a light breexe. Several of the men are sick ; one has a pleurisy, ahd Others slight fevers and coughs, from frequent exposure in the water. There appears to be no hMls or bluffs on the north east sidei the whole distance to the Platte. Encamped some distance above a hill, Called Voeil effroiy from an Indian chief who was scaffolded here some years ago. Friday \Oth. A dreadful storm raged during the whole of last night. Set ofif this morning under sail; in expectation of • js e 23t> JOUUNAL. ^' 'reaching ihe Plaite bcfare twelve^ but in the ccurse of an hour it failed us, and changed to N. W. At teni it became so violent that vre were coropelied to put to shore, where we remuint^d until towards evi ning, and again attempted to proceed, but fiitd« ing the wind too strong, again landed and encamped, having passed the moUth of the Platte. At the mouth of this river there is ao ^grt^ut a number of bars and small islands, that its entrance is scarcely perceptible. The river enters by a number of chatuieh or mouths: tlte color of its water is the same with thutof the Missouri. The couptry hereabouts is entirely open, excepting, in some siM)ts along the river, where there arc groves of cottott wood,' and. ipu the. hills a ftw scattered dwarf ;oaks. '■^' ■r.-r'::x -' :r fli Saturday Wth. The wind continues too high to proceed. This morning we advance about three miles, and encamp until near noon — very cold. Set off with my gun to take a walk into the country. Tra- versed the prairie which had been burnt, and readied the high land about three miles distant ; the high land rises gradually to the height of about two hundred feet, the country then be- comes waving. The other side of the Missouri appears ex- tremely bare. I wandered towards the Platte, or rather to the point of the upland between this river and the Missouri, which commands a very extensive prospect. 1 discovered a great extent of open country, gently rising grounds, with a soil every where extremely rich. The Platte is full of islands and sand burs, and appears us wide, as the Missouri On my re- turn, I saw several Indian mounds. On reaching camp I found that the wind had abated, and that the river was rising fast. The river Platte is regarded by the r^vigatOrs of the Mis- souri as a point of as much importance, as the equinoctial !ine amongst mariners. All those who had not passed it befc re, .^rre required to be shaved, unless they could compromise the matter by a treat. Much merriment was indulged on the oc- casion. , From this we enter what is cjiUed the Upper Missouri. Indeed the change is perceptible and great. JOURVAU $V CHAPTER IV. Sunday I2M. Weather pleasant— the river ri&ing rapidly'; the drift wood descends [a great quantities) and the current seems to augment every moment. This majr possibly be the annual flood. , We were enabled to ascend the greater part of this morning with tlie towing line. In the afternoon, some distance above the old Otto villagei S. W. side, I went on shore, and Vvrandered several iniles through sh'ubby hills, and saw Several elk and deer, \^ithoat being able to approach them. Towards evening I entej^Jbd i charming prairie, and of the richest soil. * Fdliowed a HVulct Until it formed a lake in the river bottom, Its banks for six oY eight feet a rich black earth. In pursuing ihb uplatid I might have fallen upon the Missouri six miles above, in tiie distance of a niile, the river forming here a considerable bend. Tho prairies or meadows to the water's edge, enabled us to continue the greater part of this day with the line. ■ ;• . Monday 1 3th. Water falling — continued with the towing line. i\t ten, e fine breezy springing up, hoisted sail. Pas'&ed the river d^ lioyer, and the houses of McClelland, who wintered here. Some woody country hereabouts ; but that on the upland is very inferior, chiefly shrubby oak. A short distakice above this place we encounterpd a very difBcult and tapid current) but being luckily a little aided by the sail, we passed tolerably well — -We have now reached the highest point to which settlements will probably extend on the western side for many years. In the evening passed hi^: h clean meadows, called the Coun^ cil Blufls, from the circumstance '6f Lewis and Cla^^k having held a council with the Otto and Missouri Indians, wheh as* cending this river. It is a beautiful place— >Encamped four miles above this place on a large sand bar. In the course pf this day found the river crooked and narrow : it appeared in on6 place almost closed up by drift woOd'and sawyers. II '1 Mi H In ssa JOURKAL. Tu»tday \Ath, Set off with a slight breeze— compelled by heavy rain to put to shore for some hours, after which, continued under a fine wind that lasted throughout the day; but from the winding course c"lhc river, we were not much benefitted by it. In some of the bends of the river, the limber, principally (Otton wood, is heavy, but the prairies and upland are entirely bare of trees. The prairies compose more than two-thirds of the margin of t;be stream-*-the soil extremely rich : for the three first feet, generally a light mould, another stratum is a deep bidcH, almost approaching the color of coal, but not hard or stiff; the lower stratum U marie, . I have no doubt that these natgjral meadows would yield surprisingly— Encamped at the beginning of a great bend of the river, twelve miles round, and |iot. more than three hundred paces across. Wednet^ay \ith Although the wind is &vorable, it was pf no use to us, from the sudden turns of the river. At twelve foisted sail, and passed the Soldier's river, a small stream. Af> ter doubling some points we came into a reach of some extent; vind here became very violent, and blew almost a tempest ; with our sail reduced to half its sia^e we easily encountered the fitrongest current. The storm became at length so serious that jjt was deemed imprudent to continue under way. The air was darkened by clouds of sand, and we found ourselves at (he up^ per end of the reach, in the midst of sawyers and planters, our situation dangerous in the extreme. We fortunately escaped -safely to the shore, where we remained unti) evening, the wind fibating we proceeded a few miles further. Thursday \t>th. A tremendous storm of thunder and light* ping last night— 'being fortunately in a good harbor we suffer^ ed but little. Were not able to get under weigh this morning until l4te, A fine serene morning, strangely contrasted with the turbulence of last night. Came in sight of the hills S W. every one bitterly regretting that the wind of yesterday could not serve us her?, where there is a view of twelve miles up the riv* er. There appeiu^ to reign an unusual calm, the sky cloudless, the river as smooth as % m'u*ror. Words cannot coiivey whit I feel, {Old it is qnly thg lover of nature who could understand inc. JOITRKALi 39» The points are tolerably wooded— At the upper end of the kng reach we «aw an encampment of Huiit, wliere there were •ppt'arances of his having remained one or two days. Tl>e bones of buffaloe whicti tbejr had killed were strewed about. If it be their encampment »t the time we were at the river Platte, it b not nwre than six day» since they were here. The reaches be* fore described are now rarely seen — the woods more free from undergrowth. Encamped be&»« svihset on a sand bar below te coufira^L'OUtHie. Friday I7tk. A charming morning— alight bdication of wind from the S. E. Passed Sa coufie a} L'OUeUe. This name originated, in the circvmstance of h trader having made a nar- row escape, being m the river at the very moment that this cUi." off was forming. It was a bend of fifteen mites round, and per« haps not more than h few hundred yards across, the neck, which was suddenly cut through by the river, became the fsain chtrn- nel. This was effected in a few hours. While temaining a short >'irae at a sand bar in ihe river, a curious phenomenon occurrrvi ; the sand began to dissolve, and every instunt to diminish like the melting of knom, it was thought prudent to embark immediately. This I am inCorm- ed is net uafrequent. Sars are sometimes formed during the condnoance of « smglf flood, but being principally of loose smd, without any tiling to unite, as soon as the waters begin to rise again, is enurcly carried off. At ten passed a simUar cut-off called /« nitfte a^ Jacfue. At twelve contineed under sul, made Kveral long reaches— pass- ed tlte Yellow banks, ^nd encamped within a few miles of the Black-bird hill. Throughout this day the river border is c)ue& ly wood. Saturday 18/A. A fine breeze S. W.— At seven arrived at tbv*^ Biack-bird hill. As this is one of the curiosities of the Mis* scuri, a description may be amusing. It rises on the common range to the height of four or five hundred feet. The Missoo- ri at its base, begins a strange windmg course, several dmes re- turning upon its steps, and at length coming within nine hun- dred yards of where it is first approached ; so that in a course of thirty mile^ the Black^bird hill is still near us. It takes its name '^ -'-ti *%l "i^m i -!!.;I'.l i "250 journal; from a celebrated chit^f of the Mahas, who caused himself to be interred on the top : a mound has been erected on the pinnaclej with a branch stuck in it, a flag was formerly atti\ched to it- He was buried, sitting erect on horse back; the reason why he chose this spot, was to enable him to see the traders as they as- cended. This chief was as famous in his lifetime amongst ail the nations in this part of the world, as Tamerlane or Bajazet were in the plains of Asia ; a superstitious awe is stiil paid to iiis grave. Yet, the secret of his greatness was. nothing more noi; «^> less than a quantity of arsenic, which he procured from some trader. He denounced death against any one who displeased faim, or opposed his wishes : it is therefore not surprising, tiiat he, who held at his disposal the lives of others, should posses? unlimited power, and excite universal terror. The proud sa- vage, whenever this terrible being appeared, rendered the ho- mage of a slave. The gods and heroes of antiquity, iwere, per- haps, little better. We may learn this lesson, that ignorant and siavage man, can only be ruled through the means of fear. At four o'clock, got through the last bend, and hoisted sail, with a fine wind--~sailed along some hills, S. W. side, and en- camped amongst some cotton wood, in a low bottom. ounday \9th. Continued our voyage this morning at day- light, with sanguine expectation*^ of overtaking the party cf Hunt, at the Maha village. Passed the bluffs; some of them verf^u- rious, faced with a sand rock, of variegated and fantastic hues; at the first gl?nce, it resembles the decorations of a theatre. Con- tinued with little interruption, under sail, and arrived about twelve at some trading houses; near which, the Maba village is situated, about two miles from the river. We saw a few Indi- ans on the bank, and several traders with them, men who were pxi the point of setting off with their peltries. Hunt set out frnn this on the 15th, under sail. Remaining here as short a time as possible, ws continued our voyage, having sent our interpreter and an Indian, by land, to the Poncas, to request Hunt to wait for us. The wind continu- ed until towards evening, when it gradually died away. En- camped near Floyd's bluff, and river, fourteen miles above the JOURNAL. 33^ Mahas. Sergeant Floyd, one of the party of Lewis and Clark, Yf&b buried here : the place is marked by a cross. The appearance of the river is much changed — it continues a handsome width, with a diminished current. The banks low, and the trees much smaller in size; we now rarely see a large tree. The bluffs ^>d upland on the N. £. side, are not high, and without any appearance of trees and shrubs. Monday 20th. Passed at daylight, the Great Sioux river, which takes its rise in the plains, between the Missouri, and the waters of lake Winipec; it is five or six hundred miles in length. I ascended the bluffs, high clay banks of sixty, or an hundred feet. The current is here very strong. Hailed a tra- der, descending in a large canoe, made of skins of the buffaloe, upwards of twenty feet in length, who wintered at the river a^ Jaque. He met Hunt eight leagues beiow that river, proceed- ing with a fair wind, and is by this time, at the Qui Courre.-— These skin canoes are stretched over the red willow, and re- quire to be frequently exposed to the sun, and dried, as they would otherwise become too heow from the quantity of water absorbed. We are now nearly half way to the place of our des- tination. Perceive a sudden rise of the water. Sand bars are nearly- all covered, and banks, in places, overflown. Tuesday 21«r. This morning fine, though somewhat cool. Wind increasing from the N. E. Current rapid, but for the eddies in the bends, it would be almost impossible to ascend.— There are but few embarras, or collections of trees, fee. The sand bars are fringed with a thick growth of willows, immedi- ately behind which, there are young cotton wood trees, forming a handsome natural avenue, twenty or thirty feet wide. The banks are very low, and must be inundated every season. Passed in the evening, a rapid, of frightful appearance, the water foaming and rolling in waves, as if agituted by violent wind in the middle of the river, while on either side it was calm. We were compelled to pass along the sand bar, and through the willows. It was with difficulty that we could obtain dry land this evening, the water, in most places, flows into the woods.— In the night, the water had risen se much, that the men were 339 JOimWAt. oompelled to abandon iheir encampment, and twcp on hoai'd.-^' Very little prairie in the course of this day, i)Ut the timber of a smaU size. Wedneaday 22rf. A delightfai day — ll>e water has risen to its utmost height, and presents a vast expanse— the current UftiiTormly rapid, in some places rolling^ with the most furious and terrific violence. One of these places, below Vermillion creek, was sufficient to appal the stoutest heart : the river forms an elbow at the termination of some biuil^, the water, compress- ed between them and the sand bar, dashes against the opposite rocks. The middle of the river appeared several feet higher than the sides. The distance to cross, before we could reach the opposite eddy, was no*, more than twice the length of the boat, but we were not able completely to effect it, being swept down with the rapidity of flight, but fell into the current of the opposite side, before it had gained its full force, and were able^ with great difficulty, to gain the eddy. The high waters enable us to cut off points, which is no small saving of the distance* The water begins to fall, though {;reat quantities of drift wood descend, and thirty or forty drown* ed buffaloes pass by every day. I observe a much greater variety of trees and shrubs, than below* aiid ziome altogether new to me. There is a shrub which the French call graiaae de boeufy bearing a red berry, of a pun* gent taste; its leaves, though smaller and more delicate, bear a tesemblance to thooe of a pear tree. In the hollows, clumps of trees are usually found, but what surprises me, they are ver7 )ow, though some of the oaks and ash are eighteen or twenty inches in diameter, they look like orchard trees, and have much greater resemblance to regular plantations than wild woods. Thuraday 93rf. Water falling rapidly— a fine breeze 8. E. sailed until eleven—passed the Hot, or Burning Bluffs, on the 6. W. side. Here 1 observed enormous masses of pumice, and other matter, which appeared to have undergone the action of i^ee*. of a very high degree. I sa\» «rhat was the fragment of a >.Ul, the greater part at present composed of pumice. From not tvcJng able to discover other volcanic appearances, I conclud* JOURNAL. 233 ed these appearances to have been produced by the burning of^ coul. About noon, espied a ntimber of persons on a sand bar, which Vre al first supposed to be Indians, but on a nearer approach} re- cognized to be Whites, amongst them, a Mons. Benit, factor ot the Missouri company, at the Mandan village. These men Were descending in a small boat, with some peltries. . He tells Us that the Indians are ill disposed to the whites, every where on the Missouri; Mr. Henry is in a distressed situation ovef the Rocky mountains^ The Crow Indians are supposed to be inimical-^and the Sioux have broken out into open hostilities^ and haVe killed several of the whites. Mr. Benit and crew ^ere fired Upon last night, by what they supposed to be SiouX) ,and returned it. They did not see the boats of Hunt. Proceeded on oUr voyage at three o'clock, not a little dis- heartened at this intelligence. Mr. Benit and One other of the company return with us. t'assed some beautiful upland N. E. side, but without wood, an immense level plain stretches out, I am informed, for about an hundred miles. We observed a Sioux lodge or tent, of a conical shape, made of skins— it appears to be the custom of these people, to leave their dead in lodges of this kind, until it be convenient for them to gather up their remains. Friday 24M. Set off early— weather warm. The water is falling very fast— there is still a very strong current. Passed bluffs of a chalky appearance, perhaps limestone. A piece of iqe floated by us thisioorning, probably from the breaking up of some 'of the northern rivers, which have contributed to the present rise. In putting off from a bluff on the S. W. side, to cross over, my attention was called to an object which attracted the notice of the coiDpany- A hugebuffaloe bull mad his appearance on the top of the bluff; standing almost at the edge of the precipice, and looking down Upon Us. It was the first we had seen Long and tnutted wool hung over his head, and covered hia huge shoulders, while his body wes smofMh, as also the tail, exce^it a tuft at the end. It was a striking and terrific object : he eyed us wiUi the ferocity of the lion, seempd at length to *' snuff the tainted gale/* threw his head iato the air, wheeled, round, and trotted off. rf 2U jovnsxu Had u fine breeze towuvcJs cvrnin(;~*vrhicli enabled ub to mulic live or bix miica more than we expected. &'aturdmy 2bffi. This iTiorning ran a ground, and were de- tained several hours Pubscd the nvcr a"" Jague i the principal rendezvous of tlio traders with the YunUton Sioux. It is a large handsome hiream, tolerably well suited for a Rniall settlement. It is bcconiini; very warm. Went out on a delightful prai<' *) rio, t!;L> ^rass short, of a deep blue, and intermixed with a great * variety of bcuulilul flowers. I am forbidden to wander far, on account ol the Indians, who it is thought may be near. Wc discovered this morning, a great deal of smoke up the river-., we supposed this to be a iiotiBcation of the Indian spies, of our approacli. Wc are now in the open country-^no woods are to be seen, except some slender cotton wood trees in the points, and some clumps in the hollows of the upland. The beauty of the scenery, this evening, exceeds any thing I ever beheld.— ^ The sky as clear as in a Chinese painting, the country delightful. Convert the most beautiful parts of England, or France, into one meadow, leaving a trifling proportion of wood, and some idea may be formed of tliis. But there appears to be a painful void — something Wanting — it can be nothing else than a popular tion of animated beings. It were vain to describe the melancholy silence which reigns over these vast plains. Yet they seem to give a spring to the intellectual faculties. One never feels his unutrstandhjg so vigorous^- or thiiiks so clearly. Were it safe, with what delight would 1 roam over these lovely meads! The water has fallen, and the current is much lessened. Sunday 26th. At daylight, discovered a canoe descending with two men, who prove to be those sent by us, to Hunt. They bring inforniauon that he has agreed to wait for us at the Poncas village, where he intends to remain some days. Saw some bufPaloe to day, and with Mr. Lisa, went several miles in pursuit of them, but without success. Passed a beautiful island Visle a> bon hotr me, upon which there is the remains of an ancient fortification . In the evening our hunter killed a buffaloe, upon which we all feasted. Mondatj "27 th. Had to oppose a contrary wind, until eleven. At.one, arrived at the Ponca? village, where -we remained until JOtnNAL. 2ni five. On our approach, we found the whole village crowclcd on the bunk) and flcvt-rtkl hud wudcd up to the wuist in the water.-— The greater part of the men were nuked; thu women and chil- dren filthy and disgustin]^. According to custom, had a talk with the chiefs, to whom vc made some triflmg presents. Hunt hud not waited for us, according to promise. Saw two men, who hud probably deserted from him, they informed us. that as soon as he heard of our approach, which was quite unexpected, be hud determined to exert himself to the utmo'^t, to get out of our reach. The fact is, there does not exist the greatest confidence betwcn the two commanders. Ours seems to think, tha^ ' is the .lention of Hunt, to pass the Sioux, who may wis' .e- taiu him, by telling them that their trader is coming uu with goods for them. While on the other hand, Hunt may believo that iwisa intends to pass him, and tell the same story. It is therefore determined to push our voyuge, if posaible, still more than before. Encamped above the Qui Courre river— a most beautiful country, but very little wood. The country is much more hilly. Tuesday 2Bih. Weather smoWy, and extremely warm. High land on both sides of the river, with some dwarf trees in the hollows, principally cedar. At ten, a fine breeze springing up, we continued under sail the rest of the duy, and the greater part of the night, determining to strain every nerve, in order to overtake Hunt. There is acarcely any bottoms from the Qui Courre. IVedneaday S9/A. After lying by a few hours, at one o'clock, again continued under sail-^but the moon disappearing, and it becoming dark, it was thought advisable to lie by until daylight. The hills hereabout, high and broken, a we m JOURNAL. clistrbvercd, to the ^reat joy of the company) that the fire wus not yet extinguished; it is therefore but u few days since they were here. Continued under sail until 1 1 at night) having in little better than twenty-four hours, made seventy-five miles. Thursday 30th. This morning, favored with a continuance of fair wind- The country is exceedingly rough and bro- ken — the greater part without the least vegetation. The hills have a very singular appearance. Near the top they look black, and seem to have been burnt. About noon, saw some tracks, vrhich we supposed to be of yesterday. In the evening, passed a very fine river, called White river, about three hundred yards at the mouth. Here there is some bottom land, and wood points ; the hills covered with grass — . Heard several gun shots, which we supposed to have been from the party of Hunt. This evening the wind abated. J'^riday 3\st. This morning, u contrary wind, and some rain. Proceeded wiUi the cordeile. In the course of the day, saw a large flock of antelopcs>— they appear to be numerous in this part of the country. Ooscrved in the sand, a number of Indian tracks, and a place, where it appeared that the boats of Mr. Hunt had stopped with the Indians some. time. One of our men discovered a curious place, contrived by the Indians, for taking fish ; it was something like a fjsb ,basket~we found two fine catfish in it. When about to put into the river, to cross to a point, we dis- covered three buflTaloe, swimming towards us, and contrary to the precautions we had agreed to observe, in making uo noise, least we should be discovered by the Indians, who were probably in the neighborhood, a firing was commenced upon the poor animals, which continued half an hour. The report of the guns, as might have been foreseen, brought an Indian to the top of the hill, but we were too far in the river, to return to him, or to be heard. Towards evening, the boat having received some injury, was compelled to stop — went in pursuit of a bufTatoe calf — on my return four.d the party somewhat uneasy oh account of the lenerth of my stay, having been drawn by the eagerncas of pur- ■ suit to a considerable distance, ' JOURNAL. isr Saturday ^ June \at. At duy light heard a ngtnb^r of gun| fired 00 the hills below us on the other side of the river. Wq Duw concluded that uU our preqaution and labor h^d been vain* That we should be robbed and killed, or at least compelled to return. They soon arrived opposite to us, with ^n America flap^, and fired one or two gun^. There was bi^t one thing tq be done, which was to cross over to them at oi)ce,and meet the worst, every man preparing himself for defence. Each rowef had his gun by his side — Mr- Ias& and myself, besides our knives and rifica, had each on? u pair of pistols in our belts. Qn rtach? ing the shore we discovered twelve or thirteen Indians on a log, Mr- Lisa and I, leaped on shore {^pd %hook hands with them-^p- We supposed that the principal body was conce^lpd behind iQ tlie woods, so as to be at hand if necessc^ry. Having no inter- preter at this critical juncture, we were fearful of not being un- derstood : however, with the aid of signs, a language with whicl| Mr Lisa was well acquainted, he was enabled to communicate tolerably well. He told them that h^ w^s their tra,der, but that he had been very uniortunate, all the peltries whiph he had col- lected amongst theim having been burnt, and his young men, who had passed 2 years before to go to the head of the Missouri, were attacked and distressed by the Indians of those parts, who are ba4 people. That he was now poor, and much to be pitied ; that h|D was going to bring back his young men, having resolved to cpn- iiuc himself to the lower country. He concluded, by telling (hem that he intended to return in three months to establish a trading house at the Cedar island, and requesjted tUe chief to send word of it to all the Sipu^ bands. This story, together with a hand- some present, produced the desired effect, though not without so\nc reluctance. We remained here as short 9 time as possi- ble, and re-crossed the river. The chief is a fine looking Indi- an, the others were very young men, nearly naked, \i'ith long braids of hair hanging down their foreheads ; they are the best looking people I have seen. It is two dayn since Hunt passed here. We did not cease to use every cxertioU) considering it still possible that we might be stopped. AboQt twelve reached the great bend, twenty-one miles ■around, and only one and an half across. Two men were sent to 339 JOURNAU notify the boats of our near approach. In the evening a strong tvind from the N. E. which would hardly have been favorablo in any other part of the river, enabled us to hoist sail, and what is singular, continued changing to suit the running of the river. We by this means made fifteen miles— some part of the timo it blew with violence, accompanied by rain. Sunday 2d. Set out with my gun early this morning, on the S. W. side of the river— walked about four miles along the riv- er hills, and with much satisfaction perceived at a distance the boats of Mr. Hunt. I returned immediately to give the joyful intelligence to our people. On coming opposite the place where J had seen the boats, we discovered a great number of Indians, who beckoned to us to cross ; but supposing them to be Sioux, we determined to continue on until we should overtake the party before us. We suffered them to shout, to gallop their horses, and to wave their robes unnoticed. Some distance above, our men came to us, they had been with Hunt, the Indiana we had just past, were a party of three hundred Arikaras, who, on hearing of our approach, had come for the purpose of ena- bling us to ascend- It appears also, that we have passed all the 3ioux bands, who had been seen by Hunt, but probably finding his party too strong, they had resolved to stop and plunder ours, that we must have past them in the night or under sail) as they did not expect to hear from us so soon. At eleven o'clock we overtook Hunt's party, to the great satisfaction of our little company. It was with real pleasure I took my friend Bradbury by the hand ; I have reason to believe pur meeting was much more cordial than that of the two com- manders. Continued under sail in company the rest of the day^ forming a handsome little fleet of five sail. Encamped in the evening opposite the larger Cedar island, twelve hundred miles Irom the mouth of the Missouri. JOURNAL. ^9 CHAPTER V. Monday June 5d. A strong wind from the N. E. thit morn- ing, compelled us, tfter proceeding a few miles, to encamp for the remainder of the daf . Took my gun, and set off to make an excursion. The country is altogether open, excepting some groves of cotton wood in the bottom. The upland rises into con- siderable hills, about one-third covered with a very short grasS} intermixed with a great variety of plants and flowers, the rest consists of hills of clay, bare of almost every kind of vegetation. On the tops of the higher hills, at some distance from the rivcrt there are masses of granite, of several tons weight, and great quantities of pebbles. In the course of my ramble^ I happened on a village of barking squirrels, or prairie dogs, as they have been called. My approach was announced ! / an incessant barking) or rather chirping, similar to that of a common squirrel, though much louder. The village was situated on the slope of a hill, and appeared to be at least two miles in length ( the holes were sel- dom at a greater distance from each other than twenty or thirty paces. Near each hole, there was a small elevation of earth, of six or eight inches, behind which, the little animal posted himself, and rever abandoned it, or ceased his demonstrations of alarm, " insignificantly fierce," until I approached within a few paces. As I proceeded through the village, they disappeared, one after another, before me. There was never more than one at each hole. I had heard that the magpie, the Missouri rattle snake, and the horn frog, were observed to frequent these places ; but I did not see any of them, except the magpie. The rattle snake of the prairies, is about the saiae length with the common rattle snake, but more slender, and tie color white and black. Mr. Bradbury has n^ct with great success in his pursuit.— « He has found nearly an hundred unde icribed plants. Within a few days he has found a great number, which he calls Mexican. The country thus far, has offered nothing remarkable as to mi- nerals. There is in company; a gentleman of the name of Nut- joxmnKt. tel< engaged in the same pursuits) to which he appears singular' ly devoted ; it seems to ubsorb every thoughti so uh to bi trou« ff bh'some to the company, which has some .imes to wuii for him ; it appears to have done uwuy every regurd of personal safety.— < Tu the igtioiaiit Canadian boatmen, who are unable to upprcci* •tethe laciunce, it af^brds a subject of n^rriment; lefouy the ibol, is'the name by which he is commonly known. No sooner ^es the boat touch the shore, than he leaps out. and whei, hie Mtention is arrested by a plant O' fiuwer,ev too much devoted to his favor- •itesiu£>y. A cbaracterisv x anecdoie of thiu gentleman wuh re- lated to raie, by Mr. Miller, wIm> commanded one of the bouts^ •ftno shevrs to what an astonishing degree the pursuit of natural ■historyhad taken possession of his mind, to the exclusion of >ivery thing else. The day after passings the' Sioux tribes, thc^' >snet, a» 1 have before mentioned, three hundred Arikaru Indi- mns, these -were so delighted t6 see them, that a number ruslied 'into the riverrto swim or wude to the boub; the party suppos- ing fhem to be inimical, was on the point of Biing ; wl>ile every -one w*as in momentary expectation that this woiild take place, 'NuttAlj'Who appeared to have been examining them very atten- 'tively, tuiwed to Mtller, "sir," said he, "don't you think these ^Inaians much Matter, Hnd more robust than those of yesterday." In the course df the evening, had an opportunity of seeing Idte manlier in whieh the antelope is hunted in the.e open plains, "^^here there is no possibility of approaching by insidiotis means. t/^ 'A hanklkerohi^f is placed on the end- of a ramrod, and waved 'in the stir, the hunter lying flaton the ground. If any of the ani- 'nrnls be in night, they run inistantiy to the place, and perform a crrctiit around, approaching often within twenty or thirty yards, "tvhich gives an opportunity of firing on them. The party of Mr. Hunt consists ot aLout eighty men, chiefly Canadmns; the rest are American hunters. 'Turn(ta.j 4th. Set off at seven— wind contrary, though not "V strong «s yesterday. After doubling a point, we found that jotmKAL; m from the courKc of the river, the wind would be favorable^ and occordint^ly Hailed for eight or ten miles. We taw at the mouth of a small creek, a herd of bufTaloe, of several hundred. The appearance of the country has varied but little for several days past. Bleak and dreary— the bottoms narrow; in some places none at all, and clay bluffs. Wednesday ith. This morning; after proceeding a short distance, we wore compelled, by rain, to put to shore> where ■we remained until the afternoon, and finding no appearav^ce of the weather clearing up, crossed to the S. W. side, where Mr. Hunt was encamped. I took a walk with Mr. Bradbury— in the course of which, I saw a number of antelopes, bufTaloe, and villages of prairie dogs* At some distance from the river, there is not the least appear' ancc of a tree or shrub. The country appears to rise gradually. There was something picturesque in the appearance of herds of bufTaloe, slowly winding round the sides ofthe distant hills, dis- appearing in some hollow, and again emerging to view. The whole extent of the plain is covered with ordure, as in a pat* ture ground. Wide and beaten roads are every where to be seen. On my return, I found that a disagreeable misunderstandinij; liad taken place between the two chiefs of the parties. The in- terpreter of Mr. Hunt, had been in the employment of the com- puny, and was indebted to it. Mr. Lisa had several times men • tioncd to him the impropriety of his conduct, and perhaps had made him some offers, in order to draw him from his present ser- vice. This was certainly imprudent, and placed him in the power of a worthless fellow, who, without doubt retailed the conversa- tion to his master, with some additions. This evening, while in Hunt's cump, to which he had gone on some business, he was grossly insulted by the interpreter, who struck him several times, and seized a pair of pistols belonging to Hunt ;— that gen- tleman did not seem to interest himself much in the affair, being actuated by feelings of resentment, at the attempt to inveigle his man. On my return to our camp, I found Mr. Lisa furious with rage, buckling on his knife, and preparing to return: finding that I could itot dissuade, I resolved to accompany him. It was with ri;i m JOUflNAL. %h* Kr*a^^ difllcuHjr I su<;ce«^cl in preventing tke luost seri' fitm c^M/oq^nw*, 1 h«U Kveral timeft to stand between him IMUQ the inieffVctfeT} who ^iMi « pitriloL in e«di hitnd. ] am sorry to ikijtf that there wa» bat iitlk^ (UtipositioA on the part of Mr. Hunt) to jH'event the miechkC thet might have arisen. 1 must* in justice to him, declare l^owever, that it was througli him that Mr: ft^'CleU«Ad* wa» induced net to put hia threat in execution ]Mvh>g p|«i48e Hdnit and the gentlemen who were .wiiJ» luna, and Mr. BradjiMpryi that of Mr. Lisa, we mutually .agre«Kl 4» use aU ^ art» of mediation io our f>«wer> a>d if pos- HiUie, ptvveat asf thing aerkms. Thumda^fith. Weaher «lieaiving Q|ik The water rising very £iui|—- svy>p9s^ the ^anuai flood. This momiog passed the ruins .o£ ;^iujiiia|i^ viUaiCe, tlieive wei« great pUea of bufaioe bonea, and i}llaotij^ea of earthen w^re. The vilHige appears to have been scattered round a kind of citadel, or fortification, enclosing four or ^ve «cce9f affd-of an oval form. Tive earth ia thrown up about four fiaet; thcjre are a few cedar palisadoes renudnioig. Probably., i0.case» of siege*. tl)e whole village was crowded into this space. ., Jfridayi 7-tU' Continued under way as usual* AU kind of ui- ^rcourse between the l,eaders lm» ceased. In the evening, passedsevcraiold viih^Sssatd tobeof the Ankara nation. The jMi;toau» or points, become wider, end t^e hiufis of a less dis" gusting appearance ;, there a«« bnt few clagr h«Us» the country being generally covered with g{ias»* Saturday 9nh. Qw^xiof wiud to day— though defightfial weather. This uwfvif^^ jHWised a large and handsome riveri ^ A vMMa* enmity •Misted on tfte j^art of Mr. MTldland, towards Llaa^ in ooaaequenoe of «o«fte coaduot of the Utter, in the trade — and he had deckred, that if ever hefeii ir withliaa, in the Indian country, he would shoot him. Tboae >»ho fcuiow M'Clelland, wwld not be sar< prised that such a threat should be put in execution. JOUftNlL. d^ called the Cbienne^ S. W. side. It uppears sA lan^ ^ tlw. mouth MS the Ciifnberi»nd or Tennessee. Saw uc tbi&pitf«ef thCk ruins of an old village, and {Mii&etetioH. "The ecMntrjr tkene- abouts is fine, and better wooded than mif I hav ported here. Game is verjr abundant>-^elk, deer, and ba0bk«y frilhout number. £ncain|ted a few miles alkOTe the Chiennc riv«r^ in a fafeau- tiful bottom. No art can surpass the bcautjrDf this spot; tree& of different kinds, shrvibs, plants, iiowen, mcauteiw, and oplaady charnungly disposed. What coolness and freshness breotfaea around I The river is bordered with cotton wtoadi and a few efans^ there is then an open space of 3iQot 40 paces, after w4uch begins a delightful shrubbery «f smaU ash trees, the graisse de boeuSi the gooseberry, currant, See. forming a most deliglitl»l avenue. We all remark, that the singing of the birds is much sweeter thaa in the forest of the states. This b fimcifully accounted lior by Mr. Bradbury, from the effects of society: from the leantincss of woods, they are compelled to crowd on the same tree, and ia the same grove, and in this way, impart inipravement to each other. Assunung it as a fact, that the birds of Europe sing bct« ter than those of America, be asks, can it be owing to any otbc* reason than this? The musketoes have been exceedingly troublesome for se* veral days past. They disappear in the evemngs, which are cool, or with the slightest wind. >« <•- Sunday 9th. Qot under way thlamoroing, with ftne we»« ther. Discovered great numbers of buffaloe ; on the N W- side, an extensive level meadow. Numbers began to swim across the river, as the party of Hunt, who were before us, got oppo> site ; they waited, and killed at many as they wished; a number which were started from an island, swam towards us, and we killed several also. Mr. Bradbury and I went out en the N. W. side, where the buffaloe had been first seen, and wttlkod seveml miles. A very beautiful and extensive meadow, at bMt a mile wide, hut with- out a tree or a shrub— the upland equally bare. Pasted » Siousi encampment ef last frH— from Appeaninces ihete must have ,0 ^- 'J44 JOVIlKAt. been three or four hundred here. Amongst other things, out* ourloihy vm* dtfrttCietl, by • olrculur spaoo, about twenty feet In dlnincter, onckned with poleiit wtth a post in the middle, puintod red, und at tome dlttanoo, m bufn»loe head placed \\\wu u littlo mound of earth. We are told, this ii a place whore an incanta* tlon for rendering tiid bufi\iloe pUntyt had been performed.—- An)ong;(it other ccrcmonluit, the pipe in prcHcntod to the head. ' At four o'clock hoiktcd sail with a favorable wind. Paascd H aurprlaing number of buflTaloe In the couvao of this day, Rome het'di on the aldei of tlie hllli, not lois than a thousand. To- wards evening wo saw a great number crowded on the sand boaoh at tiio foot of an island, proceeding with caution, we ap- proached under sail within twenty or thirty yards, and selecting the fattest, wo tired upon him at once { and notwithstanding that he hud received several wound;*, he endeavored to inuke ofF.— We pursued him lnt(> the islund, the animal iiad now become fc- rn'ious from his wounds, and ir wu!i dangerous to approach him. It was not until Ho had received the contents of ten or twclvo guns, that ho *.vtts brought to the ground. The island is bcnu- tifVil. It is completely surrouiulod by cotton wood and cedar tre«8, but the apaco within is a beautiful clear meadow. On tl)o edges of the woods m the inside, there arc great quaniiiicH of currant and gooseberry bushes; these islandsi are mucli uliko In this respect. They aria more beautiful than any I have seen. Atondaij lOth, During tho whole of this duy had u tine wind iwhich enabled us to make thirty-Hve miles. Kncum|K*d op|iU' •ite a handsome stream, called Ser-war-cerna, N. VV. The country wears a handsumo aspect; the hills gently swell.< ing, and some delightful prairie on the river. There is but lit« tlo wood. In the course of the day wo saw great numbers of buffaloe, in herds of several hundred each. ■ 7W«(/ay IWA Couitijiued our voyugO with a slight wind* The country nmch tho same as that of yesterday.i taicumpud Bome distance below "ithe islaoa on which ilio Arika)*a vittamo was situated some years agor-*they have removed uar^ic nulus further up. This evenUtg 1 ireiu to tho camp of Mr. itiuiii tu ynake ai'Cangpments aa to tiie manner of arriving at tho viliu^e, l^^rpf roccivin|s ^)o chipff. 1kiki» is the fir^t timo our chiefs havQ JOUltNAL. all liiul any Ititevcourne directly or incUrontly since the quarrel.-* Mr. Lisa uppeurod to bo suftpoctcd, they itiippoiied hit intention to be, to tuko Bdvantuge of his influence with the Ariittira nationi nnd do their party some injury in revenge. 1 pledged myself tliut this should not be the case. Wednriittay IS/A. Heavy rains accompanied by thunder and liglitninfi^ iust night. At nine o'cloclc two of the ■'Chiefs wit?' the Interpreter em- ployed by the company, cumo on board our boat. They are boili fine looking mcn< muctt above the common size, and with much fuircr complexions than any Indians I have scrn. At ten wo put to shore opposite the village, in order to dry our bag- Rnge, which w«« foniplctoly wet. The leaders of the party of Hunt were still suspicious that Lisa intended to betray them.— IVi'Clcllund declared that lie would shoot him the moment he discovered any tiling like it. In tlto moan time, the chief spoke across the river, which is here ubout a half a mile wide, wo un- derstood that he was giving orders to prepare the council lodge. The village appeared to occupy about three quarters of a mile along the river bank, on a level plain, the country behind it rising into hills of considerable height. There are little or nb woodli any where to be seen. The lodges are of a conical shape, and look like heaps of earth. A great number of horses are seen feuding in the plains around, and on the sides of the hills. I espied a number cf squaws, in canoes, descending the river and landing at tlie village. The interpreter informed me, that they were returning home with wood. These canoes are made of a single buflaloe hide, stretched over osiers, and are of a circular form. There was but one woman in each canoe, who kneeled down, and instead of paddling sideways, places the paddle before ; the loud is fastened to the canoe. The water being a little rough these canoes sometimes almost disappeared between the waveS) which produced a curious cflTcct; the squaws with the help of a little fancy, might be supposed, mermaids sporting on the bil- lows \ the canoe rising and sinking with them, while the women were visible iron) the waist upwards. About two o'clock fourteen of us crossed over, and accom- panied tlie chief to his lodge. Mats were laid around for us to E! I 34» JOURNAL. git on« vhile he placed himseli' oa a kind of :*ool or bench. The pipe was handed around, and smoked; after which, the herald, (every chief or great noaD, has one of taem) ascended the top of the lodge and seated himself near an open place, and began to bawl out like one of our town criers; the chief every now and then addressing something to him through the aperture before mentioned. We soon discovered the object of this, by the ar-* rival of the other chiefs, who seemed to drop in^ one after the other, as their names were called. When all were seated, the pipe was handed to the chief, who began as is usual oi solemn occasions, by blowing a whiff up- wards as it were to the sky, then to the earth, and after to the •ast and west, after which the pipe was sent round. A mark of respect in handing the pipe to another, is to hold it until the person has taken several whiffs. After this ceremony, Mr. idsu addressed a speech to the chiefs, in which, after the com- mon place which would be expected, he observed, that the stran- gers in company with him were going a long journey to the great Salt lake to the west, and ought to be treated well, that any injury done to them, he should consider as done to himself; that in this respect they were as one people. A Lumber of speeches were as usual made on the occasion. The chief on the proposal of trading, required time to give an answer— with this the council concluded. The boats were ordered over, and en- camped a little distance below the village. A guard of Indian warriors was placed to keep off the populace and prevent pil- JOtTRNAL. S4r CHAFTEB TI. Thursday 1 S/A. This morning, Sound ourselvet completely drenched by heavy i^ns, which cuntiaued the whole night. The chief has not given his answer as to the conditions of the trade. It is for him, usually to fix the price, on a consultation with his subordinate chiefs, to this, the whole village mtist conform.—* The Indian women and girls, were occupied all this morning, in carrying earth in baskets, to replace that whict. the .'tdns ha4 washed off their lodges. Rambled through the village, which I found excessively filthy, the * villainous smells,' which every where assailed me, compelled me at lengthy to seek refuge ia the open plsun. The lovers of Indian manners, and mode of liv- ing, should contemplate them at a distance. The rains had ren- dered their village little better than a hog pen; the police ap*, peared to me, in some fiarticularty extremely negligent Some of the ancient cities of the old world, were probably like this village, inauentive to that cleanliness so necessary to heakh^ where a great mass of beings are collected in one place; and we need not be surprised at the frequency of desolaung plagues and pesiilence. The village is swarming with dogs and children. I rank these togetlier, for they are inseparable companions. Wherever I went, the cliildren ran away, seream- ing, and frightened at my outri and savage appeantfice. Let us not flatter ourselves with the belief; that the effect oC our ci» vilization and refinement, is to render us agreeable and lovelf to the eyes of those whom we exclusively denominate savages I The dogs, of which every family has thirty or forty, pretended to make a show of fierceness, but on tlie least threat, ran off.— > They are of different sixes and colors. A number are fattened en purpose to eat, others are used to draw their baggage.-— It is nothing more than the domesticated wolf. In wandering through the prairies, I have often mistaken wolves for Indian dogs. The larger kind has long curly huir, and resembles tho shepherd dog. There is the same diversity amongst the wolves m «M JOURNAL. of this country. They may be more properly said to howl than bark. The lodges are coDstnicted in the following manner: Four large forks of about fifteen feet in height, are placed iu tho ground, usually about twenty feet from each other, with hewn logs, or beams across ; from these beams, other pieces of wood are placed slanting; smaller pieces are placed above, leaving an aperture at the top, to admit the light, and to give vent to the smoke. These upright pieces are interwoven with osiers, after vrhich, the whole is covered with earth, though not sodded. An opening is left at one side, for a door, which is secured by a kind of projection of ten or twelve feet, enclosed on all sides, fOid forming a narrow entrance, which might be easily defended. A buftaloe robe suspended at the entrance, answers as a door. The fire is made in a hole in the ground, directly under the iiperture at the top. Their beds elevated a ff^w feet, are placed around the lodge, and enclosed with curtaine of dressed elk skins. At the upper end of the lodge, there is a kind of trophy erect- ed; two buffaloe heads, fantastically painted, are placed on a Ut- ile elevation ; over them are placed, a variety of consecrated things, such as shields, skins of a rare or valuable kind, and quivers of arrows. The lodges seem placed at random, without any regularity or design, and are so much alike, that it was for some time before I could learn to return to the same one. The village is surrounded by a palisade of cedar poles, but in a very bad state. Around the village, there are little plats enclosed by stakes, intwined with osiers, in which they Cultivate maize, tobacco, and beans ; but their principal field is at the distance of a tmle from the village, to which, such of the females whose duty it is to att?nd to their culture, go and return morning and evening. Around the village they have buffaloe robes stuck up on high poles. 1 saw one so arranged as to bear a resemblance to the human figure, the hip bone of the bufTaloe represented the head, the sockets of the thigh bones looked like eyes. Friday 1 it/i. It rained again last night, which prevented the trade from commencing until Sometime in the day. Mr. Lisa sent a quantity of goods to the lodge of the principal chief lieforc meni:oncd, called Ic Gauch^e, and Hunt to the one who accompanied him to itoeet us, te Oroa^ the princtpel Wal* chieC The priee of a horse wus commonly ten dollars worth of goods first coat. Hunt had -rcaelted to purchase 'torses at this place and proceed bjr land to the Columbut bdng asstlred bf somo huntefs) irho met Mm befbre his afrival herej thit this Would be his best routes Mr. BradbUrf and U took a iTalk Into the Upper Villago^ which is aeparaied from the lower bf a stream about twen^ yards ^fidOMi-Entered seteral lodges* the people of which re' ceived ua with kindness^ placed mats and akihs for Us to sit On^ and aftet smoking the pipe, offefed Us aamething tu eat} thit Consisted of fresh buflTaloe meat Served in a wooden diah.-^ They had a variety of earthen vessels, in which they prepared their food, or kept Water. After the meat, they of ered us hom« ony made' of Com dried in the milk, mixed with beans, Which Was prepared With bulfeiloe marrow, and tasted extremely weUi also poundied and made ihto gruel. The prairie turnip, is a root very common in the prairiesj wkh something of the taste dT the turnip, but more dry ; this they eat dried atid pounded, made iw ' to grueh Their most common food is homuny and dried buf- faloe meat. In one of the lodges Which we visited^ we found the doctor, who Was .preparing seme medicine for u sick lad.** He was cooling with a spoon a decoction of seioe roots, which had a strong taste and smell, not Unlike jalapi He shO%ed Us a Variety of simples Which he used. The mOst of iheM wom conimon plants with some medicinal properties, but rather harmless than otherwise. The boy had a sUght pleumqr< Thfi- chlef remedy for their diseases, whioh they conceive to be ow- ing to a.disorder of the bowels, is rubbing the belly and sides of the pauent, sohietimes with such violence, as to cause fiiii)tingi»i When they become dangerous, they resort to oiitfrms and incan" tations, such as singing, dancing, blowing on the sick, kc. They are very successful in the treatment of wounds< When the woUnd becomes very obstinate^ they commonly bum it) after which it heals more easily^ Satwday \Sth. fine WeathCr^^Took a Walk with Mr. Brad* bury through the country^ which is entirely open, and some- what hUly. Large masses of granite Wefi Usually found on -th« llh r P -m 1 11 1 II 2» Ji>ORN-AL. bighcst knbUs. Wc daw a great varicly of plants, at id stTmc new ones~*Onc or two of tlte valiie« are beautitu!; ar d a few dwarf plum trees scattered a!on(; a rivulet. On our return in the evening, ati alarm prevailed in the vil- ]sig;e, wliich appeared to be all in commotion. We were infurm-. cd tftat \he Sioux, their enemies, were near. This was proba* bly all preconcerted. I Wa» shewn, at the distance of about two miles, four horsemen on the top of a hill, at full gallop, passing and re -passing each other ; this I understand in the signal given by the scouts, some of whom are constantly on the alert, of the approach of an enemy. To give intelligence of the appearance of u herd of bufl'aloe, instead of crossing each other, they gallop backward and forward abreast. Presently the warriors issued from '. 1)0 vifhge with great noiss and tumult, some on foot, others on liorse back, and pursued the dir<^ction in which the signals were made, down the river, and past an encampment. They observcdno regular i arch, but ran helter skelter, Uke per- sons in one of our towns to extinguish a fire—and keeping spa continued haUooing to encourage e8':h other. Some of them were dressed in their moat splendid manner. The tops of the lodges were crowded with vomen and childreny and> with the eld men ^vho could give no assistance, t ut by thtir lungs, which werie ke{>t biisily eir.ployed : yet there were several who sallied forth, akmost half Unt with the w eight of years. I counted up- wards of iive hundred in Nations of such as returned, spent the evening in rejoicing;, whilp several females who had lost a relation, retired to the hUU be* hind the village, where they continued to cry the whole after- noon. In the evening they usually collect on the tops of the lodgeSy where they sit atKl converse : every now and then the attention of all was attracted by some old men who rose up and declainu ed aloud, so as to be heard over the whole village. There was something in this like a quakcr meeting. Adair labors to provQ the Indian tribes to be descended from the Jews, I niight hero adduce this as an argument in favor of these people being a co* lony of quaken. Monday \7th. This day arrived a deputation from the Chi- enne nation, to announce that these people were on their march to this village, and would be here in fifteen days. I sometimes amused myself with the idea of forming a gazette of the daily occurrences. We here sep an independent nation, with ^11 the interests and anxieties of the largest: how little would its l|isto« ry differ from that, of one of the Grecian states ! A war, a trea- ty, deputations sentand received, warlike excursions, national mourning or rejoicing, and a thousand other particularsi which constitute the chronicle of the most celebrated people. In the evening, about sundown, the women cease from their labors, and collect into little knots, and amuse themselves witli a game something like jack'Stones; five pebbles are tossed up in a small basket, with which they endeavor tp catch them agaia as they fall. Tuesday 1 Bth. Confidence had been somewhat restored be- tween the leaders of the two parties since the council in the vil- lage. Mr. Hunt having resolved to start from this vHlage, a bargain was made with Mr. Lisa, for the sale of Hunt's boats and some merchandise ; in consequence of which, we crossed the river, in order to make the exchange, after which we returned and eneamped. We are to set off to*morrow morniog to the Mandan village?^ 969 JQURNAU y Before f bid adieu to Arikurai I must note tome genera) matters relating to iheir character and manners. 'the men are large and well proportioned, complexion some* ¥rhat (airer than Indians commonljr are. Generally go nitkcdi the drels they sometimes put ooi seems more for ornament than any advantage it is to them ; this consists of a sort of cassoc or shirt, made of the dressed sUin of the antelope, and ornaniented vrith porcupine quills, died a variety of colors ; a pair of leggings, vrhich are ornamented in the same way. A bufluloe hide dressed with thr hair on, is then thrown over the right shoulder, the quiver being hung on the other, if he be armed with a bow.* the small pox desCn^ed a great sum* ber of them. One day, in panung through the village, I satr something brought out of a lodge in a buffaloo robe, and e<(Joa» ed to the sun ; on approaching, I discovered it to bo a hvmaii bemg, but so shrivelled up, that it had ntoariy loat the hilman /* *f \t 3S4 JOUIINAL. /O /' phjrsiognomy: almoit the only sign of life di«cemible, was a continual tucking its hands. On inquiring of the chief, he told mC) that he had seen it so ever since he was a bojr. He appear- ed to be at least fort)r>five. It is almost Impossible to ascertain the age of an Indian when he is above sixty; I made inquiries of several, who appeared to me little short of an hundred, but could form no satisfactory conjecture- Blindness is very common, arising probably from the glare of the snow, during « great part of the year. I observed the goitre, or swelled neck, in a few instances. Their government is oligarchical, but great respect is paid ung men under thirty. War parties are usually proposed by some individual warrior, and according to the con- fidence placed in him, his followers are numerous or otherwise. In these excursions they wander to a great distance, seldom venturing to return home without a scalp, or stolen horses. — Frequently when unsuccessful, they ** cast their robes," as they er^^resk !t, and vow to kill the first person they meet, provided he be not oT their own nir,tion. In crossing the river, they use canoes mado of the bnffiloe hide, or a few piecius of wood fasp tened together. They v;s*ially have some token, as a stake, wh ich is marked so as to convty some idea of their numbers, the direction which they have taken, fcc. To avoid surprise, they alwayu encamp at the edv;« uf a wood ; and when the pariy is small, they construct a kind of fortress, with wonderful expe- dition, of billets of wo(h), apparently piled up in a careless man- ner^ but so arranged as to be very strongs and are able to with- **'»?TIi OUENAL: W ttUnd an assault from a much superior force. Thejr are excel- Icnt'horsemeiv— ihey will shoot an arrow at full speed, and again pick it up from the ground without stopping: sometimes ti>?]r will lean entirely upon one leg, throwing their bodies to that side^ BO us to present nothing but the leg and thigh, on the other.-— In pursuit of the buffaloe, tliey will guUop down steep hills, broken almost into precipices. Some of tlieir horses are vcrjr fine, and run swiftly, but are soon worn out, from the difficulty of procuring food for them in winter, the smaller branches of the cotton wood tree being almost the only fodder which thsy give them. Their hunting is regulated by the warriors chosen for the occasion, who urge on such as are tardy, and repress of* ten with blows, those who would rush on too soon. When a herd oi bufiuloc is discovered, they approach in proper orderi wUhin a half u mile, they then separate and dispose themselves* 80 as, in some measure, to surround them, when at the word« they rubh upon them at full speed, and continue as long as their horses can stand it: a hunter usually shoots two arrows into a buflaioe, and then goes in pursuit of another; if he kills more than two in the hunt, he is considered ps having acquitted him- self well. The tongue is the pnxe of the person who has slain the animal ( and he that has the greater number, is considered the best hunter of the day. Their weapons consist of guns, war clubs, spears, bows, and lances. They have two kinds of arrows^ one for titc purpose of the chase, and the other for war ; the lat* ter differs in this particular, that the barb or point is fastened so slightly, thut when it enters the body, it remains in, and cannot be drawn out with the wood ; therefore, when it is not in a vital part» ihe arrow is pushed entirely tlirough. They do not pitison them. Their bows are generally very small; an elk's horn, or two ribs of a buffuloe, often constitute the materials of which they are made. Those of wood are of willow, the buck covered with si- news. Their daily sports, in which, when the weather ia favor- able, they are engaged from morning till ni^ht, are principally of two kinds. A level piece of ground appropriated for the pur- pose, and beaten by frequent use, is the place where they are carried on. The first is pluyed by two persons, cuch armed with a long polo ; one of them rolls a hoop) wbigh^ after havuig r«aeh>'. / t il :1 3S6 JOURlTAf*. /> ed about two-thirds <^ the' distance, is followed at half speed; and as they perceive it about to &H} they cast their pc^es under h; the pole on which the hoop feHs, so as to be nearest to cer- tain cofvespondiiHg marks on the boop and pole* gaiiis for that time. This game excites great interesti and produces a gentlej but tfiimated exercise* The other diffiors from it in thiS) that ifitttfad of poles, they have short pieces of wood^ with barbs at one end) and a cross piece at the other, held in the middle with One hand{ but instead of the hoop before mentioned, they throw a Small ring, and endeavor to put the point of the barb through k. This is a much more violent exercise than the other. - With respect to their reliirion, it is extremely diff cult, parti< eularly from the slight acquaintance I had with them, to form any just idea. They have some notion of a Supreme Being, whom they call " the Muster of Life," but they offer him no rational worship, and have but indistinct ideas of a future state. Their devotion mantfests itself in a thousand curious tiicks, of slight of hand, which they caH magic, and which the vulgar amongst them believeto be something supernatu ral. They are very superstitious. Btsides their public resident lodge, in which they have a great edllection of magic, or sacred things, every one has his private magic in his lodge about his person. Any thing curious, is im' mediately made an amulet, or a talisman i and is considered as devoted or consecrated, so «s to deprive them of the power of disposing of it. The principal war chief lately took advantage df this, ingeniously enough. He obtained a very fine horse^ which he was desiroub of keeping, but fearing that some one might ask him as a gift, and to refuse would be considered as evincing a narrowness of mind unbecoming a great man, who ought not to set his heart upon a matter of so little im- portance, he announced that he had given him to his magie.-« Some pftrts of their religious exercises are the most barbarous that can be imagined. I observed a great number whose bodies were-scarrtfd and cut m the most shocking manner } I was inform- ed that this was done in the*r devotion ; that to shew their lealy they sotnetimes suspend themselves by the arms cr legs, or the aides, hy hooks. I was shewn a boy, who had drawn two buffa- 4t>e heacU by cords drawn tfhrottgh the fleshy part of his sides, JOURiiAt. s^ liearly a quarter of a mile. I might enumerate a variety of other {lariiculars, in which this strange self punishment is curried to the greatest lengths. Thejr have frequent holy days, when the greater part of the village appears to desist from labor, and dress out unusually fine. On these occasions^ each one suspends his private magic on a high pole before his door; the painted shields^ quivers of a variety of colors, scarlet cloth, and highly ornament- ed buffaloe robes, which compose those trophies, produce a ve- ry lively effect. I several times observed articles of some va- lue, suspended in the woods. I was told they oflen leave their' property in this manner, without being under any apprehension that any of the same ti'ibe will touch it, provided that there bd^ the least sign to shew that it is not Idst. A kind of superstition Similar td that of the Druids, which protected their oflbringil hung up in the woods. ISince the a^air of lieut. Prioi*, vrhb dommanded th I continued the chase four or five miles from ihe river, in the middle of a very romantic country. Monday 24f A. Proceeded this morning with deUghiful wea- ther, the sky clear, and of a most enchanting blue. Continued the greater part of the day, with the coidcUc, along the prairie. The country on either side, of a very pleasant appearance, an4 a number of wooded points. P i\ $» JOURNAL. Tuesday 2Sth. Sailed this mcrning with a slight brccze.a~ At tep, passed an old Maudan village ; and at some distance above, saw 4 great number of Mandan Indians on their nmrch along the Prairie. They sometimes go on hunting parties by yrhoje villages, which is the case u* preicnt; they arc about five ftundred in number, some pn horseback, some on foot, their, tents pnd bag'g-'.ge c' awn by dqgs. On these great hunting parties, the women arc emploved in presevving the hide j, drying the Xneat, and iriakipg a prpvicion tp keep. Very little pf the bufia- loe is lost, for after taking the marrc«y, they pound the bones, ^7 l?oil them, and preserve thp oil> T^i^ evening the Manoun chief, Shc-he-ke, who was in the United States, came tp us with his wife. Hearing pf pur approach, he had set off for the pur- pose. Encamped on a prairie of a very rich soil. The coun- try is very tine on both sides of the riyer. There are some higli hills. Wednesday 26th. In the course of the day, passed by the Mandan villages, with a favorable wind, and arrived late at night, at the fort of the company, 1640 miles from the mouth ot the Missouri. We remained here until the sixth of July. Mr. Bradbury had already arrived. He describes the country at the distance of eight or ten miles from the river, as very handsome ; a conti- nued succession of meadows, with some wood along the water courses: pn approaching the river, it becomes mofe broken ahd hilly. We made several excursions to the villages below, and to the inte.ioi" of the country, but as thiy afford but little new, I shall not give any detail of tliem. In the ni ijjjhborhpod of tlie fort there are a number of clay hills, washed into the most curi- ous shapes, by the frequent rains, generally of a whitish color, though intermixed with strata of various hues. Some pf them resemble clouds, being circular, and detached: at the first glance they look like buildings. On some of them there is a beautiful creeping vine, or evergreen, >vhich Mr. Bradbury informs me, is described by Michaux, as growing on the lakes. There are j-great quj^intjjics of jpetri^ed wood scattered about : I traced ^. JOUiiNALi- 8M whole tree 4 the stump was more than three ieet hight and at )ca3t four in diameter. This is a very extraordinary £ac|( ii\A country where the trees are every where small. On the fourth of July, we had something like a celebration of the day ; the two prmcipal chiefs happened to be with us.-i* The borgne is one of the mo^t extraordinary men I ever knew* The description of Abelino nr'^nt give some idea of this ma^y ]EIv^ sways with unlimited control, all these villages, and is some; times a cruel and abominable tyrant In stature he is u giant) and his one eye seems lo ftash with fire. I saw him on one or two occasions, troat She-he-ke with great contempt — Mr. Lisa citing something which Slie he-ke expressed, " what" says the other, " docs that bag of lies pretend to have any authority hcre,'^ She-he-ke isafut man, not much distinguished as a warrior, and extremely tulkatwe, a fault much despised amongst the Indians. On a visit to the vilUtge- I saw a great number of small scaf- ^Ids scattered over the prairie, on which human bodies were exposed. The scaffolds are supported with four forks, and suf- ficiently large to receive one or two bodies. They are covered with blankets, cloth of diiFcrent colors, and a variety of offerings. In this thty are different from the Arikaras, who bury their dead jas we -do. Ou the sixth of July, we set off from the fort, to return to the Arikara village, where we arrived two days after, without any r«;markable occuirencc. On our arrival, we found Mr. Hunt wailing the arrival of the Chiennes, to complete lus supply of horses. We continued here about ten days, Mr. Manuel Lisa having concluded to send two of his boats, with peltries, Mr. Bradbury who was deciiious of returning, gladly embraced the opportunity. The boats were accordingly put under my com- inand, with six men in each. Two mornings before our departure, a great commotion was heard in the village, before daylight. We rose to discover tlic cause, and found that the war party, of about three hundred men. werp within a short distance of the village, on their return, after a battle with the Sioux the evening before, in which two oj) three were killed, and as many wounded. All the relations of ^ /> IM \:n .»*■ *1il 262 JOURNAL, /> those engaged, came out of the village to meet them.* I accom- panied them about a mile and an half. They advanced in a kind of proces.4ion, which moved slowly, with some regularity ; each band separate, and sung its song. Some carried the scalps on poles, others the sacred standards, which consisted of a large bow and a spear, both beautifully ornamented. The scene which took place, would be worthy the pen of a Fcnelon ; the meeting of those connected by the most tender relations, was truly afiect- ing The whole vould baf 'e d ascription ; I was touched with the tenderness of ?c i, who ran to meet her son, a youth badly wounded, bui Mhv; ;> red himself to keep on his horse, and from his counten. . ouv; -"ould have supposed nothing had been the matter. The you>ij man died almost as soon as he arrived at the temple, for it is the ustom to carry those who have been wounded on these occasions to^this place, to be taken aire of at the public expense. As they approached the village, the okl men who could hardly walk, whose voices were ex- tremely shrill, came out singing their songs also, and rubbing the warriors with their hands. The following day was spent in festivity by the village in general, and in grief by those who had lost their relations. Towards the last of July, with glad hearts, we set bif, to re- turn once more to civilized life, after more than four months ab- sence from it. My orders were to go day and night if possible, and not to stop for any Indians. The water was extremely high, and with the assistance of six oars, we were able to make little short of twelve miles an hour. The first day we passed the Chienne river, and went some time after night, but considering this something dangerous, I landed and contintied until daylight. The next morning we reached the Great Bend, a vast number of bu£faloe were to be seen on all sides, and the most tremend- ous bellowing from the bulls, as this was about the time of their mixing with the herds of cows, for they generally stay in separate herds. The country this far is beautiful, the points sufficiently wooded, and the bottoms fine. The wind becoming high, we were compelled to lie by the whole of the afternoon, in the Great Bend. On the north west side, it is bounded the whole of the way by bluffs, nearly bare, JOUftNAL. m alTording but a scanty vegetation of sand cherries, gooseberries, and dwarf plum trees. The next day we parsed Wliite riTcri where the black bluffs begin — a barren and miserable country nearly an hundred miles ; there are scarcely any bottoms, and the bluffs hi most places without even grass. In some places the hills rise to the height of mountains ;— it frequently afford* ed me amusement to see the herds of buffuloe ascending these hills by a winding path. In the evening we were compelled to land in a little recess of the bluffs, there being appearances of an approaching storm : we were not disappointed. The continued and vivid flashes of lightening, and peals of thunder, shaking the solid earth, were succeeded by a tremendous storm. The winds blew with such violence, as to threaten our boats ; for an hour, we were obliged to protect the sides with wet blanket^, to prevent them from filling, while it rained on us incessantly the whole night. The next day we passed the Poncas village. The Indians were absent in the plains. -The islands are gene* rally fine thus far, and excepting the tract between the White river, and the Qui Courre, there are many delightful spots, though the bottoms are mostly prairie, and the upland with lit- tle or no wood. In the evening, near a point above isle ^ Bon Homme, our attention was awakened by a tremendous noise. On landing^ we discovered the woods literally swarming with buffaloe, a herd of m^les had come amongst a number of females. The noise which they made is truly undescribable. On the hills in every direction, they appeared by thousands. Late in the even- ing we saw an immense herd running along the sides of the hills in full speed ; their appearance had something in it, which, without incurring ridicule, I might call sublime— their foot- steps resembled the roaring of distant thunder. The next day we passed the Maha village, and had a most extraordinary run of forty-five leagues, from sun to sun. From the Qui Courre, to the Mahas, the bottoms are wider and bet- ter wooded than above, but the upland much the same. We found them almost every where overflowed ; we were obliged to encamp on some driftwood-^the musketues tormenting t;is the whole uight. .jtH;)! s]M jdVRNAL. The followinjif day we passed the Blackbird hill, and the riv- er Plutte. The navigation in this pan is much more dungerous than above, from the number of trees fixed in the bottom. The bottoms are much wider thnn above, and better wooded ; in some placfis fo^ twenty miles and upwards, we were out of sight 6f the htgh lands : but the low grounds were every where over- flowed. The water rt'shed into the woods with great velocity, tod in bends it poured over the gorge into the river again ; a i^heet of water sometttnes for a mile, flowed over the bank. In something better than two days afterwards, we arrived at Fort Clark, having come a thousand miles in eight or nine days, without meeting a living soul. Here we were treated politely hf th£ officers. Mr. Sibiy, th&factbr, had returned but a few days before, from a journey to the interior, and shewed us spe- Mmens of salt, which he had procured at the salines, on the Arkansas. .^')n-'VV^e arrived at St. Louia early in August, having made four- teen hundred and forty milea in Uttle better than fourteen days* • ,f . i.. -istJmi'n !^;i- . lOMtfrjUU ■ _ • . •. J Oir biiTAkeil frftoH tits lioV'i'it «r t*« kisii^iK^ vM'Tlli'^ kA«t>A» VXlU.AOM-^klVBKS«-XtATtTDt>Bi,&e. filaeetk Mtivert. Mii^ri anet Bit iMHSu St. Charles i i • it if. B, it * 38* 5^ Osag^e R. (iiittte) » Charlei* creek i i 30 yds. SO tf Bi 5. IK. Hi Shepherd's creek . # 8. W. 15 #■•' ,.^'.. • Gasconade R. . i 15/ i,iit. 17 100 3ft» Ag^ Muddy R. . * 50 M. B. 15 <» » * Great Osage . ; 397 S.ir 18 133 38** 31* Marrow creek * ' itb s, nr. S « ir Cedar creek fc island t6 tt. M. r ^ # - Lead Mine hill ; § s. w. 9 ^ H ■'' Hamilton's creek i 30 s.w. 8 /> Split Rock creek . SO lf» B. 8 170 Of Saline or Salt R. 4 ^ B.MT. 3 n ft ManitOii R. . 36 m.n. 9 h «r ^od Wonian's R. . i Us N. B. 9 it Mine R. i fo S W. 9 300 Arrow prunes • » S.HT. 6 t0 It The Charitons • 30 & 70 if. £. U Ancient village of the Mis-"^ sotiri Indians near w hich >* k. B. 16 If -w • forrtierlf stood F Orleans. J Grand R. i do it. B. 4 340 4 Snake creek . ^ t • ^* If. B. 6 it" ''^'tt- Ancient vttltfge of the Lit- ^ a 9.1A 10 9S6> tie Osage Indians. > Tiger creek & island • 35 P. B, SO V . ^ A creek ami island • // S. IT. 13 » <» Fire prairie 8c creek f n S. 0. 13 ft // Fort Clark (Or Osage) i it t.iih. 6 sm If '"' n 1' r^ m JOiUBVAL. Ptaeei. mjih. Sidt. Dh. T.D. Lat. Hay Cabin creek .'^AJlOrv . s. ir. 6 II II Coal bank • u s. tr. 9 n II BlMe.W«t«r R. .m »: ,■ . 30 S. IK. 10 u II Kansas R. . .-'.-' t . >• 333 S. ff. 9 340 39» 05 Little R. Platte . 60 V. £. 9 // f» 1. Old JLatiMs Village \% \- h^MVK 5. W, 28 II n ^^dependence c;reek \# ^$. w. 38 II II 3. by^ Kai^t village » n s, nr. 1 II n St. MichaeVs prairie ir • S. B. 34 II It Nodj^Kra R, , . t 7a K. B. SO 450 39« 40* ^botona is at this I place not mor^ than 150 yds | from the bank of the Mis'r.J V. £. 33 II : Weeping-water creek . 35 S. V. 39 // « RiVE{i Platte ... . 600 s» nr. S3 600 41* Oi' Butterfly creek . . 18 s. w. 3 // II Milsketoe creek . .32 S.E. 7 II II Ancient village of Ottoes . , * s. tv. 11 II II ' do. of Ayuwat . . " N. E. 6 II II — t^. V . , . . 38 It. B. 11 II II Council Blu^s , " s. m IS 650 41* \r Soldier's R.^ ^ . . 40 y. E. 39 It It Little Siot^ . . . 80 V. B. 44 II n Bad Spirit R. . . '^ S^HT. 55 788 " A bertd in the river, 30 miles ^ round Be hut 900 yds. across J 21 809 "" a0 m W9 An island 3 miUs N. £. of J ^^ . Floyd's village. > ' 27 836 " A f Floyd's riwr & bluff., ., . 35 if. R. 14 850 '^ JQUKHMUil 13iu^ Sioux R. s -'n .« . 119 Commencememtjof (fcctCo-*^ ;,( . beli, Alum ami Cogporas ^ '( . vblufi*. : ; . J (T.! . Hot or Burning bluffii : . "^^ Whit« Stone R,;. . , v* 30 49 old village at the-imuth } ^''^ of Little fldwereek 3 River i Jaque, or James R. Calumet bluff Ancient fortification, Good Man's Isle Plumb creek * White Paint creek , Qui Courre creek Poncas river Sc village The village of dog prairies The island Cedar Whit» Rivkk .... The 3 rivers of the Sioux An island in the upper part ) of the Big Bend 5 Upper part of the Big Bend ) the gorge 1^ mile across 5 Tyler's R. . . . L'Oiselle's post* Cedar isl'd Titon R. . . . The upper part of five old^ record villages of Arikar^ » reduced by the Siou3( Chienne R. Old Record village Ser-war-cema . Waterehoo . Old village on an island 90 19 38 150 SO ■ If 300 36 35 70 r 400 ff 90 130 ff Side. Diit TP,„J^. f. r. . 3r 88a lojSii.vr If. M. 8— " .'lA — 5. jr. To i ci' ((ii,.']fno J s. £. 12 950 43" 53' s.ir. 13 " " s.nr, 13 976 " y. B. s. tt\ 1. w. s. w. s.w. u n h It H ft It 10 " 8 " 6 1000 10 " 20 " 40 " s. K^. 60 1130 jr. jr. 23 " s.ir. 20 * /' s. IK, 30 " * 5. AT. 6 1308 '' If * 44<' 13' s.w. 37 " - s.tr. 43 " *^' s.m 5 1310 44^ 30^ 47 If ' 'n s.W. 40 1397 " s.nr. m 1433 45^ 35' .■ Ji s. nr. /> Stone Idol cre y y ' 'i. * 1 t \ •it.' i. Ammmif^ iK- APPENDIX IW EXTRACT PROM mrHBOLDrS NEW SPAIN— Vol. H, 4I» 42, 43, 4< 44, fc 119» '30, '21. 'Zh '33, & Ul, 78. 73, 74- (No. 1.) THE only ancient monuments in the Mexican val'iey, wrhicit ^m ^heir tise or their masses can strike the eyes of • Euro- peuUi are the remains of the two pyramids of San Juan de Teotl- huiicaa« situated tp the north east of the lake ot'TescucOf conse- crated to the sun ami moon, which the Indians called Tonatiuh YtBaqual, house of the sun, and Metsli Ytsaqual, house of the noon. According to the measurements made in 1 803 by a young Iklexicaii seryant, doctor Otey4a, the first pyramid, which is the inost southern, has in its pfesent state a base S[ 908 metres* (645 fret) in length, and 55 metres (66 Mexican vara,t or 171 foitl) of perpendicular elevation. The second, the pyramid of the moon, ik eleven metres} (30 feet) lowcrtand its base is much • «»Mwt ■nglMi. f YeUaque* found that the Mexican vara contained exactly 31 inch- es rf the old pied du roi of Paris. The northern facada of the Hole* dtit |nvk\lides at Paris is only 600 feet French in length t 180 feet Bngliih. 7V«m^ 1 36 k>:» English. Tram- 2r» APPENDIX. less. These monuments, according to the accounts of the first travellers, and from the form which they yet exhibit, were the models of the Azt teocallis. The nations whom the Spa- niards found settled in New Spain attributed the pyramids o't Teotihuacan to the Toulteo' ^'tioQ ;* '^bQsot^uently their con- struction goes as far back as the eighth or ninth cqntury ; for tho^ kingdom of Tolula lasted from 667 to 1031. The faces of these edifices are to within 52' exactly placed from north to south, and from east to west. Their interior is clay, mixed with small stones. This kernel is covered with a thick wall of porous amygdaloid. We perceive, besides, traces of a bed of lime which covers the stones (the tctzontli) on the outside. Seveial authors of the sixteenth century pretend, according to an Indian tradi- tion, that tlie interior of these pyramids is / oliow. Boturini says that Siguenza,thf Mexican geometric) >ti, in vain endenvor- ed to pierce these edifices by u gallery. They formed four lay- ers of which three are only now perceivable, the n^juries of time, and the vegetation of the cactus and agaves having exercised their destructive influence on the extei ior of theRe monuments. A stair of large hewn stones formerly led lo their tops, where^^ according to the accounts of the first traveJlei s, were statues covered with very thiu lamina of gold. Each of the four prin- cipal layers was subdivided into small gradations of a metrcf in I)eight, of which the edges are still distin^^uifihable, which wcre^ covered with fragments of obsidian, that were undoubtedly the edge of instruments with which the Toulteo and Aztec pricsts*^ in their barbarous sacrifices (Pafiahua Tlemacazque or TeO' * Siguenza, however, in hia manuscript notes, believes them to be fh^ work of the Olmec nation, which dwelt round the Sierru de Tlusca*' la, called MatlaCueje. If this hypothesis, of which we are u jocquainted with the historical foundations, be true, ihete uionumeitts wouid be still more ancient. For the Oimccs belong to the ftrsi nations mentioned in tite Aztec chronology as existing in New Spain. It is even pretended that the Ohnccs are the only hmioa of which the migration took place, not from the north and nortU-west (Mongol Asia ?) but from the east ([Europe ?). f 3 feet 3 inches. Trcnig. APPENDIX. m fikcqui) opoiied the chest of the human victims. We kncrr that s the bbsiiian (itstli) wus the object of the great mining under- takings, cf which we still see the thices in an innumerable quan- tity of pits between the mines of Moran and the village Atoto- nilco el Grande, in the porphyry mountains of Oyamel and the Jacal, a regipn called by the Spaniards the mountain of knives, el Cerro de las Navajas.* It would be undoubtedly desirable to have the question re- solved, whether these curious edifices, of which the one, (the Tonatiuh YtzaquaU) according to the accurate measurement of my friend M. Oteyza, has a mass of 128.970 cubic toises,t were entirely constructed by the hand of man, or whether the Toultecs took advantage of some natural hill which they cover- ed over with stone and lime. This very question has been re- cently agitated with respect to several pyramids of Giza and Sacara ; and it has become doubly interesting from the fantas- tical hypotheses which M. Witte has thrown out as to the ori- gin of the monuments of colossal form in Egypt, Persepolis, and Palmyra. As neither the pyramids of Teotihuacan, noi' that Cholula, of which we shall afterwards have occasion to speak, have been diametrically pierced, it is impossible to speak with certainty of their interior structure. The Indian '^raditbns, from which they are belie vAiSH^e hollow, are vague and contradic- tory. Their situation in^lains where no other hill is to be found, renders it extremely tfvibable that no natural rock serves for a kernel to these moiwUlents. What is also very remarkable (especially if we calaB mind the assertions of Pococke, as to the symmetrical positi^of the lesser pyramids of Egypt) is, that around the houses of the sun and moon of Teotithuacan we find a group, I may say a system of pyramids, of scarcely nine ot ten metres of elevation.^ These monuments, of which there are * I found the heig^ht of the summit of the Jacal 3 124 metres (10.348 feet;) and la Roccade Ins Ventanas at the foot ofthe Cerro (hs> l.ts Navajas, 2.590 metres (8.496 feet) akove the level of llie sea. t 33.743.201 cub'.c feet Trnnj, t 29<)r33fccl. TraM. hi ! 1 ,i m At*fE«i>lX. perend buodreds, are disposed io veiy lurge sttreett whieii f^ low exactly the direction ftf the pMr«ilels, and oi the m«Kc''ji«)ti and which terminate in the louriacesoi the two great pyramids. The k&sei- pyramids are more fre<|Ment towards the southern aide of the temple of the moon than towards the tensple of the sun apd) according to the tr«dition of the country, they weri tledicated to the stars. It appears certain elMMlgh that they serr* ed as burying places for the chiefs of tribes^ AH the plain which the Spaniardai from a word of the iangvage of the islund of Cuha, call I^ttmo de lot C«e«, bore formerly in the ^«tet Mid Toultec languages the name of Mtettott^ or road of the dead. What analogies with the nranumeius of the old continent i And this Toultec people, who, on arriving io the seTcnih cen« tury on the Mexican soil, constructed «b a unilum plsn several ff those colossal monuments, thoae truncated pyramids divided by layers, like the temple of fielus at Babylon, whence did they take the model of these edifices I Were th^^y of Mongol race ^ Did they descend from a common stock* with the Chliiesc* the Hiomg-nu, and the Japanese ? Anotlier ancient monument^ worthy of the traveller's atten' Uon, is the military intrenchment of Xochicalco, situats'i to the S. S- W. of the town of Cuernavaca, near Tetlamu, belong^ ;)«^ to the parish of Xoohitepeque. it is an insulated htU of i if metres of elevatioo, sui rounded vv e^ t^ches or trenches, anA divided by the hand of nvao into iive teinrrca^ c<;t-^red with ma« •onry. The whole formsi a truo'"r',ed py-vtt ki. . 'hich he fou^ faces are exactly laid down according to th«g inur cardinal points. The porphyry stones, with basaltic basest are of a very regulaf sut, and are adorned with hierogtypliical figures, among whicH arc to be seen crocodiles spouting up water, and, what is very wrieus, men siltiog croos-legged in the Asiatic manner. The * See a work of Mr. Herders: Idea of a Pliilu9ophtcal History of the Kiiman species, Vol. H. page 11, (in fJcrman,) and K.s8ay towards a \i\\* • •"trrsal History, bylt OntUMiT, page 489, (in German.) 1 Al»P^NDYX. ^ plaX^ona of this extraordinary monument* contains more than 9.000 vquare metre3,t and exhibits the i'uins of a small square edifice, Which Undoubtedly served for a last retreat to the besieged. * The tableiland of La I^^^ebla exhibits remai'kabie Vestiges of ancient Mexican civilisation. The fortifications of Tlaxcullan iU'e of a construction posterior to that of the great pyramid of< CholUlar a curious monument, of which I shall give a hihmte description in the histcrical account of my travels in the interioi* of the new continent. It is sufficient to state here, that this py- ramid, on the top of which I made a great number of astrono- mical observations, consists of four stages ; that in its present state the (lei pendicular elevatibn is only 54 metres,^ and the ho* rizontal breadth of the base 439 metres ;$ that its sides are very exactly in the direction of the meridians and parallels, and tb'.c it is constructed (if we may judge from the perforation made » few years ago in the nbrth side) of alternate strata of brick and cUy. These data are sufficient for our recognising in the con- struction of this edifice the saftie model observed in the form of the pyramids of Teotihuacan, of which we have already spok* en. They suffice also to prove the great analogy|| between these hnck monuments erected by the most ancient inhabitants of Ana- huac, the femple of Beius at Babylon, and the pyramids of Mrnschich-Dashour, near Sakhara in Egypt. . .lii'il ' II • Description if e las antiguedades de Xochicalco dedicada a las Se • nores de la Expedicion marilima baXo las ordeues de Don Alexandro Malaspina, por Don Juse Antonio Alzate^ Mexico, 1791| p. 12. t 96.825 square feet. Traru. + 177 feet. Trans. § 1.423 feet. Trann. II Zoefo de Ohelitcitt p. 380 ; Voyages die Poeocke, CedittM He Jfauf- thiuel,) li 52, lom. i p. 156 and 167 i Voyage de /lenon, 4io. edit p. 86. 394. and 237 i Grobert Description Jet jfyramiaes, p. 6. luid 12. v.* APPEiSDlS!; The pletfofm of the truncated pyramid of Cholula has a sur- face ol 4/^00 square metres.* In the midst of it t!>crc is u church dedicated to Nucstru Srnora de \o^ Rcmcdios, surrounded with cypress, in whicl» mrss is celebrated every morning by an eccle- sjahtic of Indkn extractioni wUose habitual abode is the sum- mit of this ntonumeiit. It is from this platform that >ve enjoy the delicious- and majestic view of the Volcan de la PuebUt the Pic d'Orizabla, and the small cordillcra of Matlucueye,t which formerly separated the tcrritoi7 of the Cholulans from that of the Tlascaltec republicans. The pyramid, or teocalli, of Cholula, is exactly of the same height as the Tonatiuh Itzaqual of Tcotihuacan, already describ- ed; and it is three metres^ higher titan the Mycerinus, or the third of the great Egyptian pyramids of the group of Ghize.— As to the apparent length of its base, it exceeds that of all the edifices of the same description hitherto found by travellers in the old continent, and is almost the double of the great pyramid known by the name of Cheops. Those who wish to form a clear idea of the crreat mnss of this Mexican monument from a com- parison with objects more generally known, may imagine a Bquare four times the dlratnsions of the Pla*' ' Ventlomc, cover- ed with a heap o'" bricks of twice the elevation of the Louvre ! The whole of tlic Jnterior of the pyramid of Cholula isnot, per- haps, composed of brick Thc»e bricks, as was suspected by a celebrated antiquary ut Ronic, 1. Zoega, probably form merely an incrustation of a H^ap ot stones and liinc, like many of the pyramids of Sukhara, visited by Poconke, and movt recently by M. Grobert. Yet the road fron; Puebla to Mecamcca, carried across a part of thef first stage of tlie teocalli, docs not agree ^vith this supposition. V * 4. S.208 square feet English. Trans. f Called also the Sierra Malinche, or Dona Mai-ia. Malinche ap- pears to be derived t'rom Maiintxin, a word (I know not why) wliich is now the name ot the Holy Virg^in. t 9.8 feet. Tran». APPRNOIX. SP Wo know nbt the ancient height of this extraordinarf mo- nument. In its present stute, the icng;th of iti buse* is to its per- pendicular height as 8 : I ; while in the three great pyramids of Ghize, this proportion is us 1 ^^ and I -/^ to 1', or nearly as 8 tu 5- We have already observed that the houses of iLe sun and moon, or the pyramidal monunients of TtotihuuCun north- cast from Mexico, are surrounded with a system of small |>yra- midii arranged symmetrically. M. Grobert has published a ve- ry curious dru\?m|> of the equally regular disposition of xhb * I sltRll here 8u1>joln the true dimensions of the three great pyra< mids of Ghize, from the interesting wurk of M. Urobert I shall [ilace in adjoining columns the dimensions of the brick pyramidal monuments of Skkhara, in Kgypt, and of Teotihuucan and Cholula, in Mexico. |.^be numbers are French feet. (A. French foot ;;b ],.u66 English.) '■'h:> Stone pyramids. Cheops Height. Length of Base. 44U r28 Cephren. .>d8 655 Mycerinus. 380 Brick pyramids'.' Vv).W i'.t *>f t'ive Stages in Kg) pt, near Bukhara 150 1 .?W (il t-'our Slaves ^i Mexipo. T^otsbUtlCholula. acan « Vt2 1355 II ?n It is curious to observe. 1. ThatthepeopIeofAnahuac have had the intention of giving the height and the double base of the Tonatiuh Uzta. quul to I he pyramids of Cholula; and, 2. That the great e9( of all the Egyptian pyramids, that of Asychi;, of which the base is 8C0 feet in length, is of brick and not of stone. (Grobert, p. 6.) The cathcdr.al of Strasbourg is ei'^ht feet, and the cross of St. I-'etei-, at iiqme, 41 feet low- cr than the Cheops. There are in Mexico pyramids of several stages, in the forests of I*apantl;i, at a small elevation above the level of iht sea, and in the plains of Cholula and Teolihuacan, at elevations surpassing those of our passes in the Alps. We are astopishedto see in regions the most remote from one another, and under climates of the greatest diver- sity, man following the same model in his edifices, in his oinamcntSi ii» ){is habits, and even in the form of his poUticsUn8tituiioi\s, ! : :l 2r6 APPENDIX. sipall pyramids which surround the Cheops and Myccrinus at Ghizti. The teoculii ol Choluk, if it is ahQwabte to compare it vrith these great Egyptian monuments, appears to have been cou!»irncted on an analqgous plan- We still discover on the w>-stcrn side, opposite the cerrqs of Tecui^etc and Zapotec^, two completely prismatical masses. Qne of these masses now btars the ni^me of Alcosac, or Istenenetl, and the other that of the Cerro dp )a Cruz. The elevation of (he letter, whiich is con- structed en /iiac', is only 1$ metres.* In the northern part of the intendancy of Vera Cruz, west froni the mouth of the Rio Tecolutla, at two leagues distance from the great Indian village of Papuntlu, we met with a pyra- midal edifice of great antiquity. The pyramid of Papantla re« mained unknown to the Qrst conquerors. It is situated in the midst of a thick forest, called Tajin in the Totonac language.—- The Indians concealed this monument, the object of an ancient; vener^tiont fur centuries from the Spuniaids ; and it was only discovered apcident^lly by some hunters about thirty years Mortar is distinguishable in the scams. The edifice} however, is not so remarkahle for its size as for its symnaetry, the polish of the stoncsi and the great regularity of their cut. The base of the pyramid is an exact square, each side being 35 metres* in length. The perpendicular height appears not to be more than from 16 to SOmetresf This monument, like all the Mcx< ican teocallis, is composed of several stages. Six arc still dis« tinguishable, and a seventh appears to be concealed by the vcge-* tation with which the sides of the pyramid are covered. A great stair of 57 steps conducts to the truncated top of the teocalli, where the human victims were s^icriiiced. On each side of the great stair is a small stair. The facing of the stories is adorned with hieroglyphics) in which serpents and crocodiles carved in relievo arc discernible. Euch fttory contains a great number of square niches symmetrically distributed. In the first story we reckon 24 on each side, in the second 20, and in the third 16.-^ The number of these niches in the body of the pyramid is 366, and there arc 12 in the stair towards the east. The Abb6 Mar* qucz sup|x>ses that this number of 378 niches has some allusion to a calendar of the Mexicans ; and he even believes that in each of them one of tlie twenty figures was repeated, which, in the hieroglypbical language of the Toultccs, served as a symbol ibr marking the days of the qommon year, and the intercalated days at the end of the cycles. The year being composed of 1 8 months, of which each had 20 days, there would then be 360 days, to wltich, agreeably to the Egyptian practice, five complementary xiays \|rere added, called nemontrmi. The intercalation took place every 52 years, by adding 1 3 days to the cycle, which gives 360 + 54. 13»378, simple signs, or composed of the days of the civil calendar, which was called comJio/iualiihuUl, or tonal- fiohualliy to distinguish it from the comUhuitlaJiohuaUiztli; cr ritual calendar used by the priests for indicating the return oF sacrifices. I shall not s^ttempt here to examine the hypothesis • 88 feet Trant. ] From 52 to 65 feet, Tran%. i 1 1 I I' 3?» APPENDIX. of the Abh£ Marquez, which hat a resemblance to the astrono* mical expldiiMtioiis given by a celebrated hititoriun* of the num> her of apartments and steps found in the great Egyptian luby. rinth. THE MOUND NEAR SULT2ERT0WN, M. T. (No. 2.) I have been favored by my friend the Rev. Mr. Schemcrr horn with un account of a mound near Suhzf rtown, M. T. " At Sultzertown, M. T. six miles from Washington, is n very remarkable Indian mound, and in every respect different from any 1 have seen in Ohio, or Kentucky. It is not like those raised on a plain, or the river alluviat but the land around it, is Very uneven or rolling, and from the gradual descent of the f;round from its very base, we should be naturally led to con« elude, that here they had taken advantage of the natural position. Instead of raising with much labor, this huge pile of earth, they liave had little else to do than by levelling, to form the mound agreeably to their designs. " Its form is a parallelogram, whose sides bear the propor* lion to each other of two to three, and measured at the outside of the ditch, contains mure than six acres. The first elevation is forty feet, the area of which muy contain four acres. On the west side of the parallelogram, about the middle is a circular mount) whose diameter Is fif^y feet, and which measures from the base eighty'six feet. Opposite to it on the east end, is a similar mount, whose height is fifty feet, but appears to have been considerably higher. The north and south sides which are the longest, have each three or four lesser elevations, but tvhich are considerably washed down, the whole of the mound having been frequently ploughed, and many a valuable crop rais- ed on it ; but were originally, I suppose, at least ten feet above the first elevation. The whole surrounded by a deep ditch, vrhich, particularly at the E. and W. sides is still very percepti. ble. On the S. and N. aides are the passages out and in. M. Gfitterer. APPENDIX. tra « Whether this was a place of defence against an enemy vor a^placc devoted to religious worship, 1 shall not undertake* to determine. This, we may affirm with safety, that whatever of these theories we adopt, however visionary this may appear t« some, many things pLusibie may be said on each. That h was admirably calculated as a place of defence no one can doubt^ who considers its extent, its height, its ditch, particularly of pa- lisadoed and military works erected on the highest mounds or towers. If we suppose it dedicated to purposes of devotion, and the people to be worshippers of the heavenly bodies, the first species of idolatry, the different heights of the moundsi and their situation, would lead us to conjecture, that the high** est was consecrated to the sun, the next to the moon, and the lesser ones to the stars; but when we find that this has been the idolatry of some of the aborigines, is there not a foundation for the conjecture ? " Human skeletons have been found in many of those mounds. Mr. Griffir., the owner of the Sultzer mounds, int'orm> ed me, that his sons some few years since, had brought some of the bones of a human skeleton, particularly the head and bones of the leg, which they discovered in this mound, on one of its sides where the earth had been washed away. The skull, he ob- served, was uncommonly large,* the bones of the leg and thigh much longer and larger than of common men, and that he sup- posed the skeleton, which unfortunately was never taken up en- tirely, but immediate orders.given to re-deposit the bones, would have measured between six feet six inches and seven feet. It is worthy of remark, that du Pratz mentions that the Natchez (who according to their tradition came from the west,) de^^osit- ed the remains of their sons or chiefs, in the part of the tem- I ,.)■: * It is dlfRcult to ae<:ount for the enormous site of the skeletons found in the western country. Are they only of extrabrdinary individ- uals, or do they prove a race of men of a larger size than any existing at the present day ? nothing is more common than to find skeletons of this unusual size. There was for a long timi- preserved at fort Chartres a skull of an astonialiing^ magnitude; and i have seen a juw bone which I could with ease pass over my face, and leg bone which reacJ|)^ed thrfe i^i;hes above my knse from tho ground. r IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 7 // z *v ^'^"S^ %^ i ^« 'A 1.0 1.1 11.25 Uilli 12.5 ■ 50 "^" M^H Hr 1^ 12.0 III 1.8 U IIIII.6 V] y] A ? -(S^ Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 im AVPEUmi^ pie where was kept the eternal fire* If we suppose this mound to have been a place consect'ated to purposes of worship, might not the foregoing fact account for the finding skeletons in some of them, without supposing the original design mere deposita- ries of the dead. •' That there are mounds of these different kinds is highly probable ; but I see no reason whj* we may not suppose, some of the largest of them, to have been designed for all these pur- poses. The altars of religion, however absurd, may be the theo- logy of some nations, yet superstition, if no purer principle, will i'ender these dear to them as their lives If so, it was necessa- ry that in the early ages duch places should be secured and de- fended. It is not uncommon to read in history, of nations who have made their last stand 'iguinst their enemies in their tem- ples, and around their altars. " And again, there is a principle in human nature to shew respect to great and good men, even after their spirits have re- turned to him who gave them. This hsti been instanced in al- most every nation. I shall only allude to the practice amongst the British, of shewing respect to departed greatness and merit, by placing their monuments in Westminster ubby. We also find that amongst christians^ as a mark of respect to their de- parted pastors, the placing their remains beneath the pulpit.— This is not the case amongst civilized nations only, it has most prol)ttbly been the custom from the earliiest ages.' »» . (No. 3.) Communicated by the rev. Mr. Mills. AT Sultzertown, near Washington, in the Mississippi terri-. tory, there is an ancient fortification. It is in the form of a pa- rallek}gram> including between three and four acres measured at the base. The mound was raised 46 feet above the common ievel of the ground; near the middle of the west line was rais- ed a large mound of a circular form, 40 feet above the first level of the fortification, making the distance from the top of the mound 86 feet above the common level of the ground. The fijip of fills tnotmd htnl been ploughed and somewhat ^yorn down. APPENDtX. *5ai tt was six or ^ight paces across it, had it been carried up lb a ppiqt, as ipqst likely it orij^ii)a}ly was, or nearly so, it would have inci;easea the h^ght of the mpunjd 30 or 40 feet. Which latter number added t6 the 86 feet, its present heijght, would nifike it 186, feet, above the groqnd at the base. When the pre* ise^it proprietor took ppasessiou of his plantation, upon Which Xlxp fortification stands, about 20 years ago, the country around \ya9 timbered and covered with lime brakes. There Was at that time qo umber growing lipbn the fortifi* i^aUpn of taoxe than a foot diameter, opposite the high mound Qn the west line was another mpund, on the east, but not «d ^ligb, about 50 feet above the common level of the grounds In t^e middle of the )north and south lihes were the appear* ances pf ways to ascend ^nd descend ,t,he fortification s on each 9ide of t^se apparent passways, was a mound, rising not more ^^n 10. feet ^bove the fortificatioi>^ but near 50 above the level pf the groui^d arptiqd. There was remaining part of the way roypd the btise, a ^i^ch, in some places, at the time 1 saw it, near near 20 feet deep. Hunaan bones of a large siee have beea foui^d ne»r the ^oundk (No. 4) ¥he following interesting account of a pat^t o^ the Missis*^ sippi country is extracted from a letter to the editors* dated Natchez, Mississippi Territory, Jaoi 13, 4813. ts handsomely situated ,fiin Ahe jwe&t hahk of ,t|ie i^iyj^ip X<^*^ lonta, which rises and runs intP Uhe iPpnqhartrain in the.par^ of for a ^e.apurt tp^irn. Abqut h^f^ dozen French built mud walled huts, and about as m,any log l)oi}<> ses or cabins, and two or .three small ^rAQicis are ^11 ,^t8 present Improvements. r.U ■* National £nteUigencer-> attributed to Ilr.^erry of theltT^'S^Ifj^i^ Mm 262 APPENDl* Correctly to appreciate the advantages of the situation of MiitUsonviile, its terraqueous vicinity must be unuci aiood. The land east and west from this place along the borders of the lake is a sandy flat, extending from five to twenty miles from their shores, and nearly as level as the still ocean which seems to have receqed from it : this fiut coast is the termination of the in- clined plain, with a southern exposure, extending from near the Mississippi to Pearl river, and from about lat. 3i, SO, N. to the lakes: it is pleasantly diversified with pine covered plains and ridges, which alternate with rich low grounds or intervals, from half a mile to two miles in bteadth, on all the numerous streams which dissect it. The largest and tnost Wes^iyardly of these streams is the Amite river, which interlocks lis western branch- es with the waters of the Homochitto, fiayou Sarah, ahd Thomp- son's creek, which is the last considerable creek that feeds the Mississippi from the east. The Amite receives at Galvastowri the Bayou Manchaique, an outlet in time of high \vater from the Mississippi, s\x\d loses its name in a round lake called Maure- pas, which is about nine miles in diameter. The next stream eastward is the Tiefau, which has its source a fe^ niiles north of the old Spanish line in lat. 3 1 ; like tne Amite, it inclines ^o the east of south in its cdurse, and, after receiving its main branch) th6 Talbany, and its minor branch the Ponchartoula, both from the east^ it also empties into lake Maurepas. The waters of lake Maurepas enter by a straight called the pass of Manchaique into lake Ponchartrain, which lies between the san- dy coast of the continent atiil the river made island of Orleans. Tanchipbhee creek rises several miles further north than the Tiefau, atid interlocks with the eastern branch of the Amite; in its cours(e, which is nearly south, it receives numerous small streams, and mouths into lake Ponchartrain, three miles east of Manchaique Pass: a bar at its mouth obstinicts its navigatioui The Tchefonta and Bouge Falia have their uttermost springs near together about twelve miles south of lat. 3 1 ; their courses are nearly parallel till they unite about three miles N. eastward from Madisonville. Bouge Falia receives from the east, little Bouge Falia, on the south bank of which is an elegant range of baia:acks and officers' hoyses, sufficient for a regiment of men, APPENDIX. 283 which have been built, and occupied by the United Stages' troops: they are now vacant Bouge Chitt6 Is next in size to Amite river, with the waiers of which its higher branches in- terlock; it rises west of north from MatUsbnville, which phice it approches in its course, but turns to the cksit stnd enters Peart river i between which, and the river Tchcfonta several small creeks and bayous rise and fall into lake Ponchartrain, but they are inconsiderable in point of size oi: extent. The lakes are but the continued channel of the united wat- ers of the Amite and the other streams from this coast ; their current has been sufficiently strong to defend their shores from the annual deposits of alluvia by the Mississippi, in greater or less degrees at different points: hence the inequalities of the width of the lake : lake Maurepas is properly the lake of tho Tiefau. The Mississippi has extended its delta around the mouths of these waters, and has finally bound their weakened current close to the coast, left thein but a narrow sti^aight, call- ed the Regulee, through which as they pass they mingle wUh the waters of Pearl river, and How into the gulph of Mexico, about 50 miles S. £. from Madisonville* Lake Ponchartrain is said to be about thirty miles wide and tibout sixty miles long: it has an even sandy bottom, which seems to be a continuation of the inclined plain of the coaat» gra- dually descending till it reaches the southern shore, which is characterized by a muddy bottom, and a marshy, s,wampy mar- gin. The tides of the lakes depend entirely on the winds, and are consequently irregular, ebbing and flowing as it changes, and rising occasionally from one to six feet. The channel of the Regulees adniiits vessels with seven feet draft of water; and any vessel that can pass the Regulees may safely navigate the lakes. When the Mississippi is high, any vessel that can safely enter the lakes may descend fiayou Man- chaique, and also the pass of that name between the lukes. The river Amite is sufitbiently large for boat navigation' at the junction of its east and west branches a few miles below lat. 31 < Galvastown is situated on its S. £. bank, below the mouth of bayou Manchaiquc. .' . 2H APPENDIX. The Tiefau, Talbana, and Poncbartoula, are capable of boat and small schooner navigation- Springfield or Bookter's land- ing) is situated on the W. bank of the Talbana, about ten roileii from lake Maurepas. The Tanchepehoe is acQessible for boata but is unfavorable for schooner navigation, The Tchefonta is a wide and handsome little river, afford- ing a safe harbor and navigation for any vessel that can be sailed through the Regulees, Schooner navigation extends several miles up the eastern branch, called Bouge Falia, on the west bank of which a town js laid off by the name of St. Jack j anU several buildings are ereqted. Madisonville is favorably situated for the coasting and West India trade, having about two days sail in going out, and about two weeks sail in coming in, the advantage of New Orleans ; it ^es more convenient to the necessary supplies fur repairing and building vessels ; it is believed to be a more healthy situa- tion, iess infested with musketoeS} an4 furnished with good spring water. Madisonville is situated two miles from the mouth of the river Tchefonta; about 3Q miles N. of New Orleans; about 3Q miles ]&. from Springfield; about 70 miles B.from Baton Rouge ; 8^4 about QO miles ^. by- S- from St. Francisville, at the mouth pf ].he bayou Sarah, in the state of Louisiana. It lies about 8Q miles £- S £. from Woodville, the seat of justice in Wilkinson couhty ; {(bout 1 10 miles S. £: from the city of Natcnez ; about 6Q miles S, £. from the seat of jusdce iq Amite colinty ; about 00 miles S. by W. from N6w London or Moniicello, on Ptarl river ; abotit 65 miles S- W. froit) New Columbia, in Marion county ; ^boUt 140 miles W. S. W. from fort Stoddert, and aboUt 1 10 miles W' from Mbbile town, in the Mississippi territory. Th^fie are the conjectured distances on rectalineal dtr^ctions{ for theret are few or no roads leading towards^ M4disom'ille< The Old King'9 road, as it is culled, leading in a direction from ^aton Rduge (o the bay of St. Lewis a few miles £. from the Hegulue$, crossed the river Tchefolita about half a mik aboV0 |I)6 Cockle bank, now t^e site of Madisonville. A^PENDTt. ft^^ The l/nited States* troops cut a road from the vicinity of Tchefonta in a dirrci:ion to fort Stoddert ; but the water and the swamp obstructions on it rendered it almost useless, except in vciy dry weather ; and the great hurricane of August last, has completely blocked it up as well as every other road approach- ing Maditionviile ; and the police laws, weak and unsettled in consequence of the many and recent changes of government, have not co-operated with public spirit to clear them out. The country within 20 or 30 miles of the Mississippi, is ge- nerally a broken, rich land, thick wood country, with a heavy undergrowth of cane, &c. The low grounds of the many streams running towards the lakes, are extremely fertile; and above the flat woods, the low grounds of which are too moist for cultivation, it is believed by the inhabitants, that sugar cane may be cultivuted to perfection and advantage ; and recent ex- periments strengthen that opinion. Upland rice is grown in great perfection, and may be rendered a very profitable culture on these low grounds. On the second rate low grounds, and first rate piney lands, wheat grows finely and yields a heavy grain : it ip harvested early in May : but wheat is an uncertain crop, on account of the rains and wind which are apt to prevail about the season of its blossoming ; and it is subject to a rust. Indian corn grows as finely and yields as well as in any part of the United States, Tennessee and Kentucky excepted. This coumry is inferior to none for the culture of upland cotton, and is superior to any in the United States for the production of cornfield peas, sweet potatoes, and pompions. The piney plains and ridges afford excellent water, pleasant and healthy situa- tions, and luxuriant and abundant pasturage. Madisonville is understood to be chosen by the agents of the iJavy Department for repairing, and even building of small ves- sels of war for the southern station ; and it seems peculiarly adapted to these purposes: the vicinity abounds with oak, pine, and cypress ; here also tar is made in abundance, with as great facility as in any part of the union : the spun hemp, or rope yarn of Kentucky, may be brought as cheap to this harbor as to any other, and the rigging noay be laid to order at the navy yard mth the greatest economy and advantage to the public 9ervicc'. 266 APPENDIX. Provisions will also be furnished here of as good a quality and as cheap as in any other seaport: the country between the Peurl and Mississippi rivers is extremely favorable to the growth of ho^s : and cattle are reared to as great perfection, and perhaps to as great an extent, on the waters of Pearl river, and particu- larly in the Choctaw nation of Indians, as in any part ot the U. Stutts. Why, it may be asked, have not the singular advantages of this place sooner manifested themselves? The French were the first, and for many years the only civiliz(;d inhabitants in the vicinity of Tchefonta. Enterprise is not one of the characteristic truits of the Louisiana French. A few small fields and mud wall houses, are the most of their improvements in this ntighbor- hood. The burning of shell lime and charcoal, making tar and raising cattle, and carrying the product of their labor to the Or- leans market, were generally the extent of their pursuits. At- tempts at commerce must have proved futile, as there were no country settlements to support them ; the neighboring country wait still within a few years past inhabited only by Choctaw In- dians. The country back of Madisonvillc now sustains a very consi- derable population ; but there being no roads to accommodate an intercourse, its trade is diverted into other and unnatural channels. The capitalist will not place his stock on a coast where there are no roads to facilitate trade ; arid the inhabitants •f the country have little inducement to make roads towards c place where they have little or no advantages of commerce — The only measure necessary tb insure an influx of capital to M&- disonville, and to make it gradually assume the rank of a re- spectable seaport town, is the making of two or three good roads in proper directions through the flat woods, to the high and hard lands of the adjacent country. And with a capital to invite it, the natural advantages of this place 'vould insure it the trading seaport of a country larger in extent than the state of Cormecticut, and capable of sustaining an equal or greater agri- cultural population. The land in the vicinity of Madisonville, with very few ex- ceptions in favor of old Spanish and French titles, belongs to th^ APPRND(X. av United States ; it is therefore confidently hoped that when the peculiar properties of this port shall more fully unfold thein« selves to the view of the government^ it may be considered ex- pedient to cause good roads to be made at the public expense, over the public lands, in proper directions to favor and facilitate commercial intercourse between the town and country. "TTh I (No. 5.) HAVING spoken of the Trappists in my account of the mounds in the American bottom, t here subjoin a description which was published in the St. Luuis paper, and which, contrary to my wishes, I have understood gave great oflence to the good fathers. The buildings which the Trappists at present occupy, are merely temporary: they consist of four or five cabins, on a mound about fifty yards high, and which U perhaps one hun- dred and fifty feet square. Their other buildings, cribs, sta- bles, &c. ten or fifteen in nuhnber, are scattered about on th6 plain below. I was informed that they intended to build on th6 terrace of the large mound ; this will produce a fine effect, it will be seen five or six miles across the plain, and from some points of view ten or twelve. They have abotlt one hundred acres en- closed in three different fields, including the large mound, and- several others. On entering the yard, I found a number of persons at work, some hauling and storing aWay the crop of corn ; others, shap- ing timber for sortie intended edifice. The greater numbef were boys from ten to fourteen years of age. The effect on my mind, was inexpressibly st)*ange, at seeing them pass and repass each other in perfect silenee. What force must it require to subdue the sportive temper of boyhood ! But nothing is so strong a:f nature. I admired the cheerful drollery of a mulattoe lad, with 02fe leg, who was attending the horse mill : as the oth«'r boys passed by, he generally contrived by some odd trick or gesticulation, to attract their notice, and commonly succeeded in exciting a amile. It was a faint watery gleam of suii-shine; which seemed to say^ that their happiness was not entirely ob- Z' f ' ■ -' 1^' 3M iLPPJRNni)C. scured by the lurid gloom which the iuffpmiiy gf ** diBtpiripfv^e^ imaginatioiM" had cast «rouQd. Good GqU* thought I, ip it pu^* sible that the gift which thou bettow^dst, to 4i>MpgMi»li us amidbt thy **■ vast creation" should be tlvMB id^.spiscdi for >lrilhp^t speech, how could we ever communicate to ^ch other, tb^t wci possess reasoning powers~»a munation «f Ahe divji^ essence ? To make the highest virtue consist in silence^ was reserved for the Trappists. Fatigued and chagrined at this scene, which I contemplated apparently unobserved, I ascended the mound which cpo^ins iJie dwellings. This is .nearly 25 feet in height: the ascent rendered ea^y by a slanting road* I wandered nbout here for jiome time, in expectation of being noticed by sqme one ; it was in vaui that I nodded to the reverend fathers, or peeped into their cabios. How unaccountably the i^ind is sometijnies uffected 1 J own I felt a kind of awe, for which I w^& unable to discover ihc most distant cause. Perhs^s were I to enter a Pagqd fur the first time, I might experience the same feeing, ^t lepgth ^seatipg myself upon a logi I amused myself with the appear- ,at>ce of the different figures as they silently pasijed, and ipdulg- led^n^ reflections. I bad read of solitary monks, and had seen ;them represented in paiutingSi but here, they really existed.—- The ,recoiUeotion of the figure which this strange order of jpnen has made for so.niany centuries, inhistory, and \u ropiance^ naturally awakened a variety of remembrances with their linked ;4B^QCiatiQ^S' I admired with what .rigid severity tfie gopd fa- .thers banished from their heads, those ornatnental loc;ks be- ^itowe^by qature, leaving one wanderijig tuft: a symbol of the «i;o>^AiOftbom9! I had the good (fortune to be accq^ted by a young man, who I dipcpvered to be in ,their employ nxent as a kind of sjeward^ tthOMgh wtotbeKiiviaej^ttacJhcd to the.^ociety. J expei;iencedre- liof on bejJie. able to fin4 one who :va5 willing.to speak : .1 made a tarietyof inquiries of hiqi, btit to very Utile purposo: he wag iiowfsyer obliging, and promised to Jjpeak in my behalf to the ;Princ^pal. In a short time Father Jpseph made his appearance j I learned t^t he had jtlie government of the monastery in the vi^^ce.qf FAfher Uxl;|ain. He is a s|jri^htly, ^nd.inte|%^pt 11 APPENDIX. 2^9 tnan, am .nuch to my surprise, talked with wonderful volubility^ which excited in me almost as much surprise as Ruhinson Cru* 9oe in his island, felt, when his parrot addressed him. He invited me into the Watchmaker's shop, for they cai-'-y on several trades^ to Assist in supporting; the institution. The shop was well fur- nished { part was occupied as a laboratory, and library ; the lat- ter but iridiff^rent; a few medical works of no repute, and the dreams of the Fathers, with the miraculous wonders of the world 6f Saints. Several men were at work, and some boys busily employed. One poor fellow, tenor twelve years of age, attract- ed my attention and pity. He was seated by a stove^ mak- ing strokes on a slate^ and appeared to have just risen from the bed of sickness, or father from the tomb. Emaciated to the last ejctreme, his face was pale, coid and bloodless, his lips purpled^ his sunken eye marked by a livid streak) and his counienauco overspread with a listless stillness. Hud it not been for the fee* ble motion of his hand ar he drew it over the slate^ and the occa^ sional raising of his heavy^ and languid eyelid, I could have be^ lieved that the tenaht of this sad and melancholy ruin, had ^one to^eek a happier abodci I felt my heart swell in my breast-* AlAft i poor lone creature^ thou hast no mother, no sister, to watch over thbe with the tenderness and solicitude which none but » mother or sister can feel ! I was pleased when I saw Father Joseph' advance towards him with a tenderness and benignity of cbunteniincej which dues not belong to a monk: he endeavored to tiheer him by speaking pleasantly to him^ but the poor fellow had lost the power of smiling ; his physiognomy was locked up in rigid coldness, which nothing but returning he»lth, or the the v^armth of parental uiFection could soften. Father Joseph inquired whether I had dined, and being in- fdfmedin the negative, had something prepared Mv fare was dittiple $ tonVisting chiefly of vegetables; though not less accep- t^t^' for it was given with good will. Having returned thanks to'tlie Fatbcir for his hospitality, I took my leave. 'I learned that the family of the Trappists consists of about eighty peVsons, a cdnsiderable number of whom are not at home. The boys are generally American ; the men principally Ger- tniin and French. They expect a COusiaerabie accession froQi N n / K! \ I 't, ii !l' 3f0 APPENDIX. Europe. It is about a year siince they have been fixed in thiifl plucc. Lust bummer provml fatal to five or six* uiiU few eaea- pcd the prevailing lever. They deny the place to be unheal* thy) and say that those who died were thicfly oid men; the niea-> gci- diet, and scaniy nourishmentt which ia taken by Huch as havo n)ade the vow, must certainly contribute. They first settled in Kentucky, afterwards came to Florisant near St. Loi^is, and from thence to their present residence. They are suppohtd to be an industrious well meaning people, and 1 should Lc willing to see them treated with re»pect« and even eneourage- ment in all but one thing; the education of children. This is foreign from the original design of their instiiution, which is a total exclusion from the world. Such a place is for a thousand reasons not calculated for a school ; a boy brought up here to the age of one and twenty, can never be fit for any thing but a Trup- pist. It may oe said that an asylum is here offered to those in cxtrenoe distress — to those unfortunate wretches, who, aged and friendles are in danger of perishing of want Happily for our country such instances arc rare indeed. Or for those unhap- py orphans, who muy bf exposed from their helplessness to be without support, and to whom, inhuman barbarity may have de- nied a home and a protection. I may safely say that these are as rare as the o ;ers. In America, it is not necessary as in Eu- rope, to give a fee with a boy who is bound apprentice to any particular calling ; on the contrary there is scarcely any mecha- nic who will not gladly take him and teach him his trade for the service which he may render, before the expiration of the ap- prenticeship A brief history of this singular institution, may not be unen- tertaining. The monastery of La Trappe was situated tn the province of Perche in France : in one of the most solitary spots that could be chosen. It was founded in 1 140 by Rotrou Count of Per:he. This monastery had fallen into decay, and its di«>> cipline much relaxed, wheti reformed by the Abbe Ranc6 1664. Ranc.^ had met with some misfortune, which rendered life hate- fiil to him, some assert the sudden death of madam Montbazor, whosiB favorite lover he was. H<' had been a nran of fat^hion, and posteefifid some pretensioua to iit<;i-ature} he is said loiiave APPENDIX; 29i trntislatcd the poems of Anacrcon. Into this monastery, wliiUi- t ime, he curried u reform of the niobt s..vuge austerity.— Tl)t5 vow was perpetuul silence ; the miserable Trappist de- nied himself during his existence, every comfort of life. Ue laid liimseif on a stone, and was frequently CttUcd in the dead ot iii)i;ht to his devotions. Hin food was bread uhd water, and tins but once in the twctiiy-fonr l^our*. Each day he was to remove from his intended grave one ^tpadefull of earth, in order to keep ever present to his nund that he must soon entirely cease to be of this world. A Fnnch writer, (who is however, influenced by enmity) observing rpon this tnonastcryt says-- CfA^ la^ qu'tls se rctlrentf crux qui ont commis ('ueltjut crime se- erit dont l^a remorda les pountuivint ; ccux (jni sortt tourmenii'a dc vafieura tnrlancholiquea et retigifuses ; ceux qui out oublit' que Ditu eat te filun misc'ricordivux dcsjie^rcs, et qui no votjeut en (ui, que le fUua cruel dea tijraus, istc. I think it unnecessary to give my opinion on the raturc of the institution — such institutions it must be acknowledged are j)ot treated with much respect in the United States, we can hardly speak of them with candor, or think of them without pre- judice. It is true, this is the land of freedom and toleration, but it is also the land of good sense. Every one may pursue his spiritual or temporal happiness, in what way he pleases; bu* his neighbors have also the liberty of laughing at him, if in the pursuit of that happiness, he exhibits singularilics whiclj yp- pear to the rest of the world ridiculous. (No. 6.) The following articles of the treaty of *^63,'raisc a neoessaTy implication that France w i the lawful owner of what is called West Florida. It wilt be seen that the ccssJoii was fn fact made by France to Qre^^t Britaiti. t ARTICLi} 7. In order to re-establish peace on solid and durable founda- tions, and to remove forever aH subject of dispute with re::^ard to the British- jind French territories on the continent of Ame- |! 993 APPENDIX. ric9. It U agreed that for the future the confines between the dominiontt of his Britannic majesty and those of his MostChris- tian majesty in that part of the world, shuU be irrevocably fixed by a line drawn alcng the middle of the river Mississippi, from its source to the river Iberville, and from thence by a line drawn along the middle of this and the lake Maurepas and Ponchar' truui, to the sea ; and for this purpose the Moat Christian king cedes in full right and guarantees to Ma Britannic rnqjesty^ the Ttver and port of the Mobile^ and every thing vthith heposaettS' es or ought to possess on tiu lift side qfthe river Mississippi^ except the town qf JVcw Orleans and the island on which iV U fituateJj O'Ct ABTICLS 2Q. *( His Catholic majesty cedes and guarantees in full right to his Britannic majesty, Florida, with V^vi St. Augustin, and the bay uf Pensacolu, as well as all that Spain possesses on the con- tinent of ^orth Amprica, to the E. or to the S. IZ of the river Mississippi, ;^nd in general, eyery thvig that depends on the said countries and lands, with the sovereignty, property, possession, and all rights acquired by treaties, or otherwise, which the Ca- tholic king and crown qf Spain have had till now over the taid countries, lands, places, and their inhabitants, so that the Ci^tho- lic king {Cedes and makes over the whole to the said king, and to the crown of Great Bii.ain, &c. This country must necessarily, therefore, have formed part of Loui«iai)a, and us such, appertained to France. Spain cedes to France, by the treaty of Udefonso, Louisiana as it had been beUl by Frances, aftd not in the extent held by her at the time of icession. It) the 3d chapter of the first book, there fire some observa* tions w^ich would seem to attach blame tp the coinmissioners. But I am induced tp believe from further inquiry, that 1 have merely taken up the popular opinion- Gov. Claiborne has pro- xnised to favor i^t^ with the procea vcrbqi^ which I will publish ^hpuld this bopk ever be thought wO'Hhy pf secpnd edition. ^- APPENDIX. (^>7). % MiuQuri, to th^ ^(^#f oi| (A/:;^^#finfWi ft^Mr^ ^«^^|(. AFTEg giving.ai,numbe;r,o|r mc^», to the P/»W!?ie c^e^a, apd having vtiiioi^ cpupcU^ with them, Mf . Siji^y, qn t^, \.\}\. of J^Qe l«ft th,eir vii^g^^s apd proceeded to ttije, Iy,i,l^t^« QiH»g6, camp, 00 the Apkap;^!, abqut,7i,roj^e8.sputh,an4;16^.eM»tfro, the Vnxjifit w.hiei;& he safely, arvived oa the lUi^. 1, rfitutyit edi pays he, several /iays wit^ the Oi^ag^es, whp had, a|)Vj^duQce. of prpvi&ions, they haying kU^d 200 U^flUloc withi^ufew day^. Where, they had their camp* thfB Arhjip.sas was.abf^^t tw(0 t^u^ dred yards v(ide» the w^ter si^^llpwi ntpid, apd^.of ared color ,<~«. On the 16th, the IndiaQ/f raji^jd t^ir camp, and p^epd^d to,-, . -wards the hilly coi^i^try on th,^ other, side of the AfkaD,s^.s.7-T. I continued with, them abqut 50 rail(e« west, and 30 n^li^a t^a^t^ when, we fell in with songie. i^en o^. the Chaniers bund,. whjOj in> . formed us that their camp was at no great dist^pce* «tpd thje camp of t^e Big Os^ge. stiU nearer, in^coiiisequenee, I jdctermiin- edto pass through both on, my way. to the Grand Salines, Oa. the 21 St, I rode S^ 4p milest £. 30, to the Ii.^$ Osage camp; nearly ail the warriors were at war, or abroad hunting. ! was remarkably well treated by Young White Hair, an^, f^fmly, I , liowever, remained but one night with them. On the 23df I ^-ode 20 miles S. 15 E. to the Chaniers caror>, where we arrW^d about, one o'clock. We were treated well by the head men^an^iu' deed« this is one of the tribes most attached to the Americans.. The chief's name i^ Clermont. Froni hence forty m^lft;^ to the, Grand Saline, which we r^ched early on the 24*,h I h^st^n to give you a description of his celebrated curiosity. The Grand^ Saline is situated about 280 iniles S., W. of Fort Osage, between, two forks of a small branch of the Arkansas, one of w^iich Witsthjes its southern extremity, and the otb(?r the prinf;ipal oji^^ ru^s, nearly parallel within a mile of its opposite vX^fi^ It *& a hard lev'^l plain of a reddish colored sand, and of pn irregular or n>ix- cd hgure \ its greatest kjigth is from N. W. to S. E. and it« ;* ■ 904 APPRNDTX. circumference full 30 miles—from the appearance of driftwood that is scattered over, it wuuid seem thut tiie witole ptuiii is at tinieii inundated by the overflowing of the si uums that puss near it. This plain is entirely covered in dry hot weather, from two to six inches deep, with a crust of b^uutiful clean white salty of a quality rather superior to the imported blown salt} it b^^urs a striking resemblance to a field of brilliant snow after a Tt^h, with a li^ht crust on its top On a bright sunny morning, the appearance of this iiuturul curiosity is highly picturesque. It possesses the quality of looming or magnifying objects, and this in a very striking degree, making the small billets of wood appear as ftirmid.kble m trees. Numbers nt' buffaioe were on tlie plain. The Saline is environed by u strip of murshy prairie with a few scattering trees, mostly of cotton wood. Behind, there is • range of sand hills, some of whicn u^e perfectly naked, others thinly clothed witti verdure und dwarf plum bushes, not more than thirty inches in height, from which we procured abundance of the most delicious plums I ever tasted. The distance to a na- Tigable branch of the Arkansas, ujoui 80 miles, the country to» levab^y level, and the wuter courses easily passed. About 60 miles S. W. from this, I came to the Saline, the vrhole of this distaiice lyinv;; over a country remarkably rug{j;t d and broken, affording ;he mosi romantic and picturesque views imaginable. It is a tract of about 75 mileH square, in which nature has displayed a greut variety of the most strange and Hrhimsical vagaries. It is an usHemblagi- of !)(iautiful meadows, verdant ridges, and rude misshapen piles of red clay thrown to« gether in the utmost apparent confusion, yet, affording the mo|t pleasing harmonies, and presenting:; in every direction an endless variety of curious and interesting objects. After winding along for a few miles on the high ridges, you suddenly descend an al- most perpendicular declivity of rocks a<^d clay, into a series of levr.i fertile meadows^^ watereu by some beautiful rivulets, and jhcre and there adorned with shrubby cotton trees, elms and ce^ dars. These meadows are divided by chains formed of red clay,, and huge masses of gypsum, with here and thee a pyramid of gravel. One might imagine himself surrounded by the ruins ^ some ancient city, and that the plaint had sunk by some con* APPEiroiX. 985 tulsion of nature, more than too ieet below its former level; for some of the huge columns of red clciy rise to the height of UUO feet perpendicular, capped withrockttof gypsum, which the hand of time is ever crumbling ofl\ and strewing in jtauiiful transparent flukes along the declivities of the hill, Kiitttriii^g like JO many mirrors iu the sun. —J I i|: .i:v AMERICAN ENTERPRISE. ^ (No. 8.) WE last week promised our readers an account of the jour- uey of the gentlemen attached to the New York Fur Company) from the Pacific Ocean to this place — We now lay it before our readers, as collected from the gentlemen themselves. On the 2Sth June 1813, Mr. Robert Steuart, one of the part- ners of the Pucific Fur Company, with two Frenchmen, Messrs. Ramsey Crooks-and Robt. M^Clellan, left the Pacific Ocean with despatches for New York. After ascending the Columbia river 90 miles, John Day, one of the hunterS) became perfectly insane, and was sent back to the main establishment, under the charge of some Indians; the remaining six pursued their voyage upwards of 600 miles, when they happily met with Mr. Joseph Miller, on his way to the mouth of the Columbia ; he had been considerably to the south and cast, among the nations called Blackarms and Arapa* hays, by the latter of whom he was robbed ; in consequence of which, he suffered almost every privation human nature is ca- pable of, and was in a state of starvation and almost nudity when the party met him. They now had fifteen horses, and pursued their journey for the Atlantic world, without any uncommon accident) until with- in about 200 miles of the Rocky mountains, where they unfortu^ nately met with a party of the Crow Indians, who behaved with the most unbounded insoleuce, and were solely prevented from cutting off the party, by observing tliem well armed and con- stantly on their guard. They however pursued on their track six days, and finally stole every horse belonging to the party. Some idea of the situation of those men may be conceived^ When we take into consideration, that they were now on foot, and had a journey of 2000 miles before them, 1500 of which was en« tirely unknown, as they intended and prosecuted It considerably south of Messrs. Lewis and Clark's route ; the impossibility of carrying any quantity of provisions on their backs, in addition to their amijnunition, and bedding, will occnr jit first vieVt Oo V l; I ^ ^' V ) 1 ^m APPKT^DlJi. * The danger to be apprehended from sturvation was itnmi-' nent. They however put the besi face upon their prospecis^ and pursued their route towards the Rocky mountains at the head waters of the Colorado^ or Spanish river, and stuod their course £. S. £. until they struck the head waters of the great river Platte, which they undeviatingly followed to its mouth. It may here be observed, that this river for about 'iOU miles, is navigable for a barge; from thence to the Oito villa|;c, within 45 miles of its entrance into the Missouri, it is a mere bed of sand, without water sufficient to float a skin canoe. From the Otto village to St. Louis, the party performed their voyage in a canoe, furnished them by the natives, and ar- rived here in perfect health on the 30th of last month, (May). Our travellers did not hear of the war with England until they came to the Ottocs ; these people told them that the Shaw- noe Prophet had sent them a wampum, inviting them to join in the war against the Americans ; that they answered the mes- senger, that they could make more by trapping beaver than making war against the Americans. . After crossing the hills (Rocky mountains) they happily fell in with a small party of Snake Indians, from whom they pur- diased a horse, who relieved them from any further carriage of food, and this faithful four-footed companion performed that ser- vice to the Otto village. They wintered on the river Platte, 600 miles from its mouth. By information received from these gentlemen, it appears that a journey across the continent of N. America, might be per- formed with a wagon, there being no obstruction in the whole route that any person would dare to call a mountain, in addition to its being much the most direct and short one to go from this place to the mouth of the Columbia river. Any future party who may undertake this journey, and are tolerably acquainted with the different pKtces where it would be necessary to lay up a small stock of provisions, would not be impeded, as in all pro- bability they would not meet with an Indian to interrupt their pragress— although on the other route more north, there arc almost insurmountable barriers. Messrs. Hunt, Crooks, Miller, MClelland, M'Kenzie, and about 60 men who left Si. Louis in the beginning of Marobf, i APPENDIX. ^ .18 U, for the Pacific ocean, reached the Ankara village on tho IStli duy of June, where mectin{r with some Amctlcun hunters Vfho had been the precedinj^ year on the waters of the Columbia ivith Mr. Henry, und who, (riving such an account of the route |>y which they passed, as beiny; far preferable in point of procur- ing with facility an abundant supply of food at all times, as well as avoiding even the probability of seeing their enemies the Black Feet, than by the track, of captains Lewis & Clark; the gentlemen of the expedition i»l once abandoned their former iJeus of passing by the falls of the Missouri, and made the ne- cessary arrangements for commencing their journey over land from this place. Eighty horses were purchased and equipped by the 17th of July, und on the day following they departed from the Arikaras, 60 persons in number, all on foot except the partners of tho company. In this situation they proceeded for five days, hav- ing crossed in that time two considerable streams which joinet) the Missouri below the Arikarus, when finding an inland tribe ot Indians calling themselves Siiawhays, but known among tl^ whites by the appellations of Chiennes, we procured from these people an accesiiirn of 40 horses, which enabled the gen- tlemen to furnish a horse for every two men. Steering about W. S. W. they passed the small branches of Big river, the Lit- tle Missouri above its forks, and several of the tributary streams of Powder river, one of which they followed up, they fuund a band of the Absaroka or Crow nation, encamped on its banks, at the foot of the Big Horn mountain. For ammunition and some small articles, they exchanged all their lame for sound horses with these savages ; but although, that this band has been allowed by every one who knew them, to be by far the best behaved of their tribe, it was only by that unalterable determination of the gentlemen to avoid jeopardiz- ing the safety of the party without at the same moment submit- ting to intentional insults, that they left this camp (not possess, ing a greater force than theVhites) without coming to blows. The distance from the Arikaras to this mountain, is about 450 miles over an extremely rugged tract, by no means furnisft- ^g {\ sufficient supply of \yator5 bi!t during lUis senses en- tirely, and on seeing the horse flesh on the opposit . side of the river, was so agitated in crossing in a skin canoe, that he upset it and was unfortunately drowned. From hence Mr^ Hunt went Qn to a cump of Shoshonies about 90 miles above, -vyhere pro- /» S0&" APPENDIX. curing ft few horses and a guide, he set out for the main Colum- bia^ across the mountains to the south west, leaving; the river where it entered the range, and on it Mr. Crooks and five men unable to travel. Mr. H. lost a Canadian named Carrier, by starvation, before he met the Shy-eye-to-ga Indians in the Columbia plains ; from vrhom getting a supply of provisions he soon reached the main river, which he descended in canoes* and arrived Hfithout any further loss at Astoria, in the month ot Februuiy. Messrs. M'Kenzie, M'Clclland and Ruea, had united their parties on the Snake river mountams, through which they tra- velled twenty one days, to the Muipot river, subsisting on an al- lowance by no means adequate to the toils they underwent dai- ly; and to the smaliness of their number (which was in all ele- ven) they attribute their success in getting with life to where they found some wild horses ; tht-y soon after reached the torks called by captains Lewis and Clark, Koolkooske; went down Lewis's purty, and the Columbia whoUy by water, without any misfortune except the upsetting in a rupiu of Mr. M'Clellund's canoe, and although it happened on the first day of the year, yet by great exertion they clung to the cunoe till the others came to their assistance, making their escape with the loss of some rifles, they reached Astoria early in January. Three of the five men who remained with Mr. Crooks, afraid of perishing by want, left him in February on a small river on the road by which Mr. Hunt had passed in quest of Indians, and have nut since been heard of. Mr. C. had followed Mr. H's. track in the snow for seven days, but coming to a low prairie he lost every appearance of a trace and was compelled to pass the remaining part of winter in mountains, subsisting sometimes on beaver and horse meat, and their skins, and at others, on their success in finding roots. Finally on the last of March the other only Canadian being unable to proceed was left with a lodge of ' Shoshonies, and Mr. C. with John Day, finding the snow sufii- ciently diminished, undertook from Indian information to cross the last ridge, which they happily efTected and reached the banks of the Columbia in the middle of April, where, in the beginning of May they fell in with Messrs. Steuart and company, having been a few days before stripped of every thing they possessed bv a band of villains near the falls. On the 10th of May, they ar- rived safe at Astoria, the principal establishment of the Pacific ^>ur Company, within 14 miles of Cape Disappointment. TJIE EJdJl- ^ONTENTSt *.J>«W BOOK I. •■•••• . ■ . , to Tt • ^ ^ ^ CHAP. III. Pace of the Country — Change which a par^ hag probably under- gone— Climate— £xtent and Importance ...» ^ 37 CHAP. IV. Lakes and Rivers G6 A Table of navigable rivers in Louisiana-^Extent of navigation . SI CHAP. V. Natural or Indigenous productions — Animal, Vegetable and Mi- neral ^ 44 CHAP, vi^ A view of the Indian nations of Louisiana— Of the Indian trade for furs, &c — Of the Missouri and Mississippi . . « 09 A Table of the Indian nations of Louisiana— Their trade, &c. * 85 CHAP. vil. View of the country on the Columbia . ^ • . /. 95 BOOK II. CHAP. I. Territory of the Missouri— Boundaries— Uxtent— Rivers— Geflf- ral view « ..... . . . , . • ip9 CHAP. II. Soil — Face of the conntry^ &c from Xew Madrid to the Missouri —Forks of the Missouri . . , . . .. . ^ IQS CHAP. III. €limate— Diseases ........ ^ . Ill CHAP. IV. Political divisions— Inhabitants— Settlements— Population . . 1\2 CHAP. V, Towns and villages .. , . . ,. k • - Xt9 I ■ •f; .* I 3M CONTENTS: CHAP. VI. Historical Ckaracter of the ancient inhabitanta— change oi Ger> eminent ••••••••••» IStJ CHAP. VII. Lead Mines in the District of St. Genevieve— Mode of mining— Produce, fcc. 146 ■ CH'AP. VIII. Kesources— -Agriculture — Manufoeturea-^Trade . » .156 tHAP. IX. State of Louisiana— Boundarie»—43erteral Surface, 8ic. ». ^ 157 LEVBBa. ..».-..■ ITS CUkt. 3Ck Antiquitiea in the Valley of the Miaaiasippi » . *. . 19), JOURNAL. CHAP. I. « . 199 CHAP. ir. HOT . OHAP. III. . . .', k . , 219 CHAP. IV. ........ S27 CHAP. V. ..... «^.,. 339 ' CHAP. VI. • . ..... 247 CHAP. VII. ....... 259 A TABLB of distances) Sec. r . 26# APPENDIX. ^o. 1.) Extracts from Humboldt's New Spun . ., . .269 (No. %) The mound near Sultzertown, M. T 27t (No. 3.) A comknunicatioA from the Rev. Mr. Mill^ on the same 380 (No. 4.) Account of Madisonville, and a part of the Miasisnppi Territory .'. .. . . . .. 391 (No. $.) A description of the Trappista . ... 287 (No. 6.) Articles of treaty respectinjf the boundaries of Louisiana 291 (No. f .) Eixtract from an account of Mr. Sibly'a joumey, ke, . S93 ^0. 8.) American EnlerprisQ . , ^ « ^ ., "TpT 1 146 156 157 irj- Ifl* 199 2or 319 227 339 347 259 36tf 369 37t 280 SBl 287 2fl 293 J^^