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'X *'., ^; ilMMiM \ r-" > -Ts. ^^Hi^^^M tffrim^m A inC' 'if' OF THE «*-■ 'if ARCTIC REGIONS AND POLAR DISCOVERIES nURINC; THE NINETEENTH CENTURY BY P. L. SIMMONDS, E. R.C.I. LONDON AND NEW YORK ^ OKORGE ROUTLEDGE & SONS 1875' « BSiamju ..J%m .'SJS'SP.ja-i---- • -aPtS rf. TT- ■XET« THE ARCTIC REGIONS AND POLAR DISCOVERIES DURING THE NINETEENTH CENTURY WITH AN ACCOUNT OF THE NEW BRITISH EXPLORING EXPEDITION FITTED OUT IN 1875, ITS OBJECTS AND PROSPECTS. i BY P. L. S I M M O N D S,. F.R.C.I. HON. AND CORR. MEMBER OF VARIOUS FOREIGN ANp COLONIAL SOCIITIBS. AND EDITOR OF "THE JOOR^L^ Q£ AJpjW scirnCB" GEORGE ROUTLEDGE AND SONS THE BRO ADWAY, T. IX^ M UDG ATE L NEW YORK: 416. BROOME STREET. ^ 1875. 'KKSlISifi^^g ,.,««f«.»«4,*^5-**»'.r^ ^ J.yu % » ^^ ■hMVM*-*-^ A.» < i m »H »i iff ■■f <^I:>r;i-c :/, T . .4 <^ XA H , t ^ LONDON : ^ JAVILt!. KDWARDJJ AND CO., PRINTERS. CHANDOS STKflET, COVENT GARDEN. -iH^fe ' " 4 ■■ * \ r^ % / 4 ' < PREFACE TO THE TENTH EDITION: ^ , T^E ^^flespread interest .taken in the im«ni4^«f a- ^inhiimtgh Itoad, West Brompim, ^ay IS75. *. ^•c-< r- ^•i-Si ■ ■■-.<■ J ^\ '■ill ?u 3,pL{^.x^ \ \ F *j.; ■•1 -J! ;''^T»',f^«'3jW ^ ' PEEFACE TO THE NINTH EDITION. noble deed7of1hiSthmerthl*^'.^ ^ the reputetion an J ^freater reason to brpSttehl?''" f ""^''^T^^ ^''^^^ ii the Arctic BegL^ wh^crw^rrP^'^*''? ^^^^^ teenth century a miX'd p^ITL f^? '^'*'^^' *^« ^i^e- appal &eadventu«inrlv.„i^?"'*^®',^® «t*™ct than to e^loratbas'trM Public -C'nglisl U|&1 pR t suacession, diiHne thmTf^r^^ ^'% "^ ^"^^^ 'q«ick somewhat diSf to L5?;o^ ^.ff.! ^^'^^ ^^ tas Wn Every succeeSg voy'a^er^^^d'' wiff '*'"'^ ^^ ^^^"^ striven to outdo hL^Tedece^rfn Lr*^* *^>^« and in the boldness anHS w^h^k' ?T"? ^^«' «ecuted his researches I?wph«£k^ivTP'^^ ^® ^«« P«>- the display ofherof«m in h I ^ ^ad little opportunity for sought and gained reDutat^m, Z\t^ "^ ^y pictures of fiction fSebSorP^Kf".- ^V ^5^^ ™««bt of reaUty, and the nSmtiveTof Arc^^^^^^^ '^"l ^'^ ^.Shtr p?;itS?S^^ ioatinArc^&J<;^^^ ' history reoo,Sed^TeseTges;Vt^^^^^ *^! «*'™& future generations' wLn all »»f«T . f '^ interest for shall have passed away ^''''^ ^^"^ ?"* ^^ them En^^ZraVd^Jh^Titsilft^^^^ b-«t of the ■iyt ti b ie desire to et^ 6 »d B„U.h glory, a„d £ no q"4t^?hl H fo„\?'*'P™ a mora -^ vm PBEFACE TO THE NINTH EDITION. adventureMdAb Dnidpnf ?Wf*^-' energy and spirit of find scope for hL&d ,n Lr^*" ^/°»P<««iWe. ^It will ascendinff Mont m^m, « some quarter, whether it be in Africa Aaia^. A ' V^^^^^^^'^'S t^e unknown rivers of md prlTations. "^W" through so many perils Arctic EeS °e„^/^tif ;i!T«f 1 "i"* 'r""'!' « the mel'^Uhtfl^i^rdaxSJedt'l'' .»»"" «1itioa. aod «^a5cfeS5^ass?^- for the narrative. Lonir however ^«l fi^ x**^''^ P«tioip.te in thHoWe BpirH of T.^T'T"' ,*.''"y "'» ' aied ii their oounCt ^„i °^ td i,^'"' ^"? '"<"' »»<* be proud l^t therSo are Pn^ii.fi ""^ J"" reaaoii to in a. jior. c^tranrreti'"''Xh'drhrp'.',?" achieTed by many thronirh »«..? ™ i j i™" """ the •• land tWbe'ar,'^d?"de,f."'ir'* "*°""8 '''» *• L. SlMMONDS* November 2i, 18C9. I 'I- CONTENTS. Introductory Rerawka , ^''"«'"'" "W'"' Of tor's J°lS^° ■*^« Names of offleoni .«^ • . . / taln« °°^"~-I'*nca«ter Sound —Th- r u , ~~*^»'e of wind -'"•• ■"»""-' --°4. JSir ™L?jrcr Voyage of Buchan an^I v^ i.,- . ^ to Spitebe.^,^ 1^.^ 1^^ ^n the I>oroaea and Tren. ou- Mcent of Hotire jmn f^l"'« Aockaof birds ~n.„^ nnlooked-for vUltSn. JC^"*** o*" walruses -SnrJ?!^*!^ 1 12 17 81 fUmtm COJTTENTS. PAGB f winter.— Suffering of the Indians.— Party set out for the Polar bea.— Examine the coast westward to Point Tumagain.— Dreadftil hardships and sufferings endured on their return journey from famine and fatigue.— Death of several of the party.— Mr. Hood is murdered by Michel the Iroouois, who for theh- mutual safety is killed by Dr. Richardson.— Hunger and famine endured by the party.— Their ultimate relief. I'arry's First Voyage in the Ifeda and Griper, 1819-20 . . 50 Names of officers serving, &c.— Enter Lancaster Sound.— The Croker mountains proved to be fallacious.— Parry discovers and enters Regent Inlet.— Also discovers and names various islands, capes and ohaanels.— Reaches Melville Island— Expe- dition cross the meridian of 110 deg. W., and become entitled to the Parliamentary reward of £6000.— Drop anchor fbr the first time. — Land on the isluid.— Abundance of animals found.— An exploring party lose themselves for three days.— But are recovered and brought back.— Vessels get into winter quarters.- A MS. newspaper published.- Amateur plays per- formed.— Observatory destroyed by fire.— Scurvy makes its appearance.— Crews put on short aUowanoe.— An exonnioa of a fortnight made to examine the island.- Ships get dear of the ic«i— But are unable , to make Airther progress to the westward, and their return to England is determined on. PaJry's Second Voyage in the Fury and Jlecla, 1821-23 . . 63 Hii opinion as to a North-west passage.- Names of offlcere, *c., of the expedition.- Make Resolution Island at the entrance of Hudson Strait.- Dangers of the ice.— Fall in with Hudson's Bay Company's ships, and emigrant vessel, with Dutch colo- nista proceeding to Red River. — Two immense bears killed Description of the Esquimaux.— Surveys made of all the in- dentations and coasts of this locality.- Ships driven back by the current and drift-ice.- Take up their winter quarters.— And resort to theatrical amusements again— Schools estab- lished.— Great severity of the winter.— Surveying operations resumed.- Intelligent Esquimaux female affords valuable hydrogr>-'* ment.— Green Stockinca th- iJ- I"^-~"aWn« encamp- chief. AkSo-f^SSfJ, 2.d S7urn'±:5*T ^^'^ '^' IHendly tribe of Esquimaux -RS^h'rZ^^^*'"** along the coast to the ewSrid mff^h. !5 !!** *"** l"***^* Back's Voyage in the Terror up Hudson'. Sirait, 1836 . is** crippled BtateTof th! .hfnt!^^^/""*^***^'— From the Of ^L naCil*fhV^t"u;:rE;s:;jnel2i^ Summary of Captain Back's Arctic SSJeS d^tomined on.- I>e8cend the Mackenzie to the sea Rnr». ♦!. . the shores of Northern A m.n^riS^ J **"* western- part of Barrow—DUcove/tw?^ ^** ^"^ '^*"" «eef to Cape AC««,Kuoi Ba? ;;tu^'7' i5* .^"^ •^'^ ColviUe- . on GreatBew Lake IsJJ;^ r^ *** T*."**.' ** ^<»''* Confldenci^ DangerouTniniisoT th« P^r"™- ^ *!L"** «"""'»« spring.- mout*iri ^oyritd?rTu^S'irr.^.^^^^^ mine comme«cei.!!Sort. .USSS5"SS«°' the Copper. t..r.r.K.o„ foot.-spend2;:s:r;SiS'a?;ort^^^^^^ r^ XIV CONTENTS. The following season a third Toyage cooubdnced.— Bichard- sons River examined.—Coronation Gulf found clear of ice.— Coast sDTjey to the eastward prosecuted.— Simnson's Sinit discovered— Back's estuary reached.- Deposit of proTiatons made by Back five years previous found.- Aberdeen Island. the extreme point reached.- Parts of the coasts of Boothia and Victoria Land traced.— One of the boats Abandoned.— Descent of the Coppermine, and safe uriral at Port Coti- ficlence. Dr. John Eae's Land Expedition, 1846-47 137 Hudson's Bay Company despatch Kae ai!d a party of thirteen . men to complete the survey between Dease and Simpson's fiirthest, and the Fury and Heda Sta»it.— Expedition leaves Fort Churchill.— Beaches Wager River.— Boats taken across Bae's Isthmus.- AVinter residence constructed.- Short com- mons.— West shore of MelviUe Peninsula, &c., examined.— Party return to their encampment, and proceed to Fort Churchin.~6ratuity of jE400 awarded to Dr. Rae. Captaili Sir John Franklin's La»t Eitpedition in the Erthw aad Terror, IfmSi 140 Probability of iihesaiijty of the E.xpedition.— Montgomery's lines on ice-imprisoned vessels.— Lady Franklin's devotion and enthusiasm.— Verses— Her appeal to the North.— Sir E. r.^* opinion.— Outfit and despatch of Franklin's expe- ditton.— Names of the oiHcers employed.— Outline of Frank- Im 8 sopvices.- Notices of the services of other of the officers.— Searching Expeditions sent out in 1848.— Different volunteers offer.— Absence of intelligence of Franklin.- His latest de- spatches and letters.-Copper cylinders —Franklfn'a views and mtentions.— Letters of Captain Fit^ames.— General opinions *i!!® "*^ experienced Arctic offloers as to Franklin's MJfety.— Oflfer of services and suggestions by Dr. King.— Opinions of Captains Parry and James Ross thereon —Con- sultation of officers at the Admiralty.— Report of the Hydro- grapher.— Advice tendered by those consulted;— Views ol Mr. Snow and Mr. McLean.- Public and private rewards offered ^ tor discovery and assistance to be rendered.— Second Report of Admiral Beaufort; to the Lords Commissioners of the Adndralty.— Various private and official letters and despatches, pointing out, or commenting on, plans and modes of relief.— Abnndan^ of animal food found in the Arctic Regions.— A ballad of Sir John Franklin. The Govenunent and Private Searching Expeditions . . .211 List of the vessels and commanders, *o., employed on the search in the Arctic Regions.— Notices of those returned home.-^^iife fyrtefl^and Jws<- Mr. ired )ort the bes. r.— -A ^ CONTENTS. ft«m the United Statw^-S^I,!!?! ^^ P^^^**« enterprise Md di«overie8.~SSS3St fn*^?'-'^^**^ ProoeeSn^ to examine the shores of Aw'tiJ T.! ^"dsGn's Bay Company preserved provisiona. totorevtan*^*?/*^^*' north—Her as unfit for tiy^d^Tp^fSa^Ly''''^''^^^'^^ to Baffin's Bay, and Cri„f ** ' ''°^»»« **» «»e Itabei Reasons for discrSSnrSf SnlS^'^s^^^** cliscoveriS^f Im's two vessels can Se nJtolyISS * ^" '^''^ *^'*°'^- Kane, sent out by ^&irS^? 'VT ^-'^-t*"-^ unfounded reports promuSd"^^*"^ fabrications and have been seen on an i.^beS off nS^ *i "^^^ *"*>««» *<> toiy opinions thereon!!5?anS^^'"!5'*-.-*^''*'**«- I'art letters m his 8hin« t- * V^^*^^*®*^ intentions.— the expedltion.-P^wfi«;;;;J"5 fir^^:""?^ '"•PP"'^ *» «hip8.-incenttves to pe^ve^^i ^i?„*? provisloakis on Parry applicable trKi^cM7^^! obwaratlons new plM, of search by^piSeS^!.""^- ™*«» s^Jgiefits a wquently advises a sindlar plirfrn;:?^ Petermann sub- wer the ices by sledges aSfo^d^flf^'^-Exploratlon Seasonings as to theif probable «?fl J V*^* effectJre.- «Perience of supporUnS a li "^!!:"-^^;^e'« P«rson«l graphical discoveriJs^S toe DiTSri^^^-~'^P*"^^t ««o- Murces of the Polar B^ioi y«*»— Indigenou.fr.. Discovery of the North-west Passage 'TX'^nroStj.S^^^^^^^^ ^heUw'ar.:^ lin's party.-His £™Jrt!^ iL £*'™''"°" *"•> relics of Frank" LetteV to tie lil^s-m^, f ^'"''fy °^ "»« Admiralty 1 8odety.-ConS^;7a^?rn^o^^^^^^ Of some former di8be1ievX~rtI'^i?~/r^^"^^ ^^^ -Further precise inforS^^^i.;":; ?*^f "'^ ^rOetprise. lin and his partv wlVh r! f ^ '^''*"' ^'^ ^''" John Frank- '•porttotlcAdmiriv Th»« ^,'?*^^' ""^ *»"« ^oar.-His the Que«. ^""""'"^^i —The /?e«)/«|i XVI OONT£NTS. I : J I 1'^ Progren of Arctic Discoyer)!i>qince 1S66 ...... 296 Obltoaiy of Arctic Explorers.— Monument erected to Sir John Franklin and tiie crews of the Erebus and Terror at the • National Expense.— Becedt Polar Discoveries by Fot^gn Nations.— American, Swedish, German, and Austrian Ex- plorations.— Lieutenant Payer's account of the Austrian Expedition. — Gold Medals of Gcogrraphical Society awarded to Lieatenants Payer and Weyprecht; Proposalg for a new British Polar Expedition . . . / . 321 ' Summary' of old vovages,— Royal and GeofirapWcal Societies and Dundee ChamberofCommercememorializeGovemment.— _, Reasons advanced for such an Expedition, and otjeots to be attained by it— Memofiandum from the Arctic Committee on «»e general scientific results for geography, hydrography, geo- desy, meteorology, magnetism and physics, geology, botany, zoology, and ethnology. The Route recommended for ^ Expedition of 1875 . . 341 RoMMM for prefaring Smith Sound.— Mr. Markham's descrip- tion o|, •' the threshold of the unknown region."— Only thi«e approaches to it, one wide portal and two narrow ones.— Siberian and Spitzbergen routes by the wide ocean between Norway and Greenland have been found impracticable, and the route by Behring Straits equally so.— Account of Parry's furthest point in 1827. r ■ Casualties and Death-rate in 'Arctic Expeditions . . . . 362 Risks much lessened by scientific improvements and appliances , provided and better victualling.— List of 88 ships which have been on exploring service in the Aretic Circle since 1848, and death.ratc, showing a percentage of only 1-7 to persons employed. t to ■ Details of the New Expedition ....'...,.. 854 'Ofllcial Instructions given for guidance of the Commander.— Description of the two vessels and their equipment— Boats supplied. — Offlcens appo^ted. — Opinions of experienced whalers as to the expedition and its prospects. Sledge Trailing ^ 871 Experience of «n old hand.— Parry's early' efforts.— Sledging* ' during the former Searching expeditions.— DescripUon of the new light and improved sredg^.— Drag ropes and belts.— Clothing B upplled Hkfe .- — -~. -::- PAOI i . 295 I Sir John •or at the IT F<»elgn trian Ez> AuBtrian r awarded . 321 Societies nment. — eots to be mittee on phy, geo- r, botanjr. . 341 Bdeaorip- nly three r one*.— - between able, and f Parry's . 352 ipliances Jch have ce 1848, persons . 354 wder.— ^ —Boats erienced 871 lodging Q of the belts.— ^^^^^m ^^^M^^^^ MM^^^^ M^^gg PHii f s;^ ^' X' \ ;5ir >*■ - -Mv - '€'t THE ARCTIC REGIONS. X Pole iJu,e coCencmeit of^^^ «liaU find that aUwfthrfSi f ?^ P'?«°* cent^O^. we blank. Mr. He^T h^ tit?*'" ""'"^^ ^^ » ^^Ple** the year Wh^dM^M?^^' -^^f^ ^^ -^ctic Sea in but not* Bingl^ne ofTe co^flj'^?*'^^^*^ *^« ««»? Bay Wi«> IcnowT m ea^ ^^ ^"^ ^»P« <« BaflBn'a G^nland. to^bOut 7^ Th^^""^ ""^'^"^ «h«re8 of defined, from Ae 4ite of iS^f; ''"'" *?^^'«Wy weU Bay and Strait werrnarti.Lt"'^ T"*^" ' Hudgon'g according to theZt^^!f^v^^?'"ii ^^* Baffin's Bay. boundedVlaSd o^^h^ wLf ^'■.^'^^' m 1616. wL 90th meri(4n^f loSoiSfdrnr i:r''''^uP"^.^«^ ^*^ the «o M aa Barrow's StS? -«^ *?T ^^^'^^ " °ow known been undertaken for the n,,r^- Z""^*^® "®®°*'' *<> bave ^ben an expedition wa«fitfS«^* «w following century. Werchante W CdZ To tS^* Ih*^^ ^^^««« ^^ <'erta£ •uc^eded at different peri^^d^^S^Sr"'*^ «<^era jeoted and oanH.H ^. J!.'!?^'..'*"^'^ of them were at»8nge ea«tward» \o thti north of Cape Taimnr and Cape Shelatr INTRODTTCTION. 8 accomplished. Passage, it would hsre been •i^\'Tgi^:^^'^lfZ^''f Eu^, when war'. nreBCcutrng d aooyeries within the AfctToSfe °^ labours of Kw tnd S" =IfM>T°* "^ *« *^»"»« It must be admitted, however tli.t tl,. * xj Parrjr and Franklin pa,; for^Ich on^L^fl,]™^'"'/ .«* question. Both these „ffl".™"™.°" ™« o*"*' side of the respect, have declaredTrih^^.'^^ ™.^ ™J' '^'f'' s^e does stm erist to the n„XofX»e^eto?E 4^etur7'2l!)t;'i°^'5fe"'"r''' "f,"" «* west passage to the RSfiTif V. * "^tence of a north- doubtf and from the tT^li u'^i^ "^"^^T P*"'"* «» Sound, we wer^Tot^^^SLwi' i-''™"!- ^«°""'^^'s complete accomplishment?"r ^^J%™*;7»"?g **« eleventh chapter of hU work' i, nf / '°' '? *« »s to the pr^ticabiht/of'^5; a pi*: '''"" '^""'^■ othe™,Kh!s°feS^lS'd':?S'' f^"u^ *''«-»"<''™'' « impediments .>Krteem^*"thinrfr^ siSSSuT-'V™'^^^- ^d^ £rH^£S=«;i -™" "^^^ •■ those briUiant ieXXrf TFr w • ?'"?" J"'"j' '«™» ■ piu uuu.lyd lSD.Ved in Z '"'^ tnglr .h ont crpri s cuo c uu. B 21 ■OBBBBBBi 4 PROaRESS OF ^lRCTIC DISCOVERT. and persevering efforts to "tierce through frozen seaa, in their httle slender barks, of tn6 most miserable description, ill provided with the means either of comfort or safety, without charts or instruments, or any previous knowledge of the cold and inhospitable region tiirough which they had to force and to feel their way ; their vessels oft beset amidst endless fields of ice, '{uid threatened to Ke over- whelmed with instant destruction from the rapid whirling and bursting of those huge floating masses, known by the name of icebergs. Yet so powerfully infused into the minds of Britons was the spirit of enterprise, that some of the ablest, the most learned, and most respectable men ot the times, not only lent their countenanci and support to expeditions fitted out for the discovery of new lands, but strove eagerly, in their own persons, to share in the glory and the danger of every daring adventure." To the late Sir John Barrow, F.E..S., for so long a period secretary of the Admiralty, and who, in early life, himself visited the Spitzbergen seas, as high as the 80th parallel, we are mainly indebted for the advocacy and pro- motion of the several expeditions, and the investigations and inquiries set on foot in the present century, and to the voyages which have been hitherto so successfully car- ried out a» regards the interests of science and of our knowledge of the ]^lar regions. Although it is absurd to impute the direct responsibility for these expeditions to any other quarter than the several administrations during which they were undertaken, there can be no question but that these enterprises originated in Sir John Barrow's able and zealous exhibition, to our naval authorities, of the several facts and arguments upon which they might best be justified and prosecuted as national oojeota. The sad fate of Sir John Franklin and his gallant companions has thrown a gloom on the subject, but it ought to be remembered that, up to the present perioo, our successive Polar voyages have, without exception, given occupation to the energies and gallantry of British seamen, and have extended the realms of magnetic and general science, at an expense of lives and money quite insignificant, compared with the ordinary dangers and casualties of such expeditions, and that it must be a very narrow spirit and view of the subject wliicli the cry of " Cui bono," and counsel us to relin- '■■^T can raise the cry quishthe honour and peni"of such "cnterpriitJr itr Itussia ~" and the United States of America ! It can scarcely be deemed out of place to give here a ^TT INTRODUCTION. 5 short notice of the literary labours of this excellent and talented man, aa I am not aware that such an outline has appeared before. Sir John Barrow was one of the chief writers for tHe (Quarterly Review, and his articles in that iournal amount to nearly 200 in number, forminff, when bound up, twelve separate volumes. AU those rekting to the Arctic Jixpeditions, Ac, which created the greatest interest at the period they were published^ were from his pen, and consist chiefly of the following papers, commencing from the 18th volume r-On Polar Ice ; On Behring's Stmts and the Polar Basm ; On Ross's Voyage to Baffin's Bay • On ParrysFirat Voyage; Kotzebue's Voyage; Fraikhn'a l^irst Expedition; Parry's Second and Third Voyaffes and Attempt to Reach the Pole ; FrankUn's Second Expe* dition; Lyons Voyage to Repulse Bay; Back's Arctic i.and JH-xpedition, and his Voyage of the Ihrror. Besides these he pubhshed " A Chronological History of Voyages to the Arctic Seas," and afterwards a second volume, " On ^e Voyages of Discovery and Research within the Arctic ' xtegions. He also wrote lives oif Lord Macartney, 2 vols. 4to; of Lord Anson and Howe, each 1 vol. 8vo; ol ^eter the Great ; and ah Account of the Mutiny of the Bouuty. (in, the " FamUy Libraxy ;") " Travels in Southern Africa," 2 vols. 4to ; and " Travels in China and Cochin China," each 1 vol. 4to. In the " EncvclopaBdia Britannica " are ten or twelve of lus articles, and he wrote one in the Edinburgh Review by special req^uest. ^ -c^ ujr In addition to these Sir John Barrow prepared for the press mnumerable MSS. of traveUers in aU parts of the globe the study of geography being his greatdeUght, as 18 evidenced by his having founded the Royal Geographical Society of London, which now holds so high and influen- tial a poartion m the learned and scientific world, and has advanced so materiaUv the progress of discovery and research m aU parts of the gloBe. Lastly. Sir^John Barrow, not loflg before his death, published his own autobiography, in which he records the labours, the toil, and adventure, of a long and honourable public life. 8ir John Barrow has described, with voluminous care and -minute research, the arduous services of all the chief . 1 1 ' "^ -Ts'-'^ oy aea luid Htttd,-t»ttd"fco hnr vohraroif Brajt^ refer those who wish to obtain more extensive details and particulars of the voyages of preceding centuries. He has also graphicaUy set forth, to use hit own words, "their '? v-aap* ■! 'J t > iW I! 6 PROGRESS Oy ARCTIC DISCOVERY. several characters and conduct, so uniformly displayed in their unflinching perseverance in difficulties of no ordinary description, their patient endurance of extreme suffering, borne without murmuring, and with an equanimity aUd fcM-t^ude of mind under the most appalling distress, rarely, if ever, equalled, and such as could only oe supported by a superior degree of moral courage and resignation to the Divine will — -displ&ying virtues like those of no ordinary caste, and mich as will not fail to excite the sympathy, and challenge the admiration, of every right-feeling reader." Hakluyt, in his " Chronicle of voyages," justly ob- serves, that we should use much care in preserving the memories of the worthy acts of our nation. The different sea voyages and land journeys of the pre- sent centuiiy towards the North Pole have redounded to the honour of our country, as well as reflected credit on the characters and reputation of the officers engaged in them ; and it is to these I conflne my observations. The progress of discovery in the Arctic regions has been slow but progressive, and much still within the limits of practical navigation remains yet unefxplored. As Englishmen, we must naturally wish that discoveries which were first attempted by the adventurous spirit and maritime s^iU of our countrymen, should be finally achieved by the same means. " WU it not," says the worthy " preacher," Hakluyt, " in all posteritie be^ as great a renown vnto our English natione, to have beene the fii'st discouerers of a sea beyond the North Cape, (neuer certainely knowen before,) and of a conuenient passage into the huge empire of Russia, by the Baie of St. Nicholas and of. the Eiuer of Dmna, as for the PortugtJes, to have, found a sea beyond the Cape of Buona Esperanza, and so consequently^ passage by sea into the East Indies P" y^ I cordially agree with the J^l^rterlj/ Review, that " neither the country nor the lu^al service will ever believe they have any cause to regretr voyages which.^ia the eyes of foreigners and posterity, "piust confer lasting honour upon both." The cost of these voyages has notr^een great, wliile the consequences will be permanent ; for it has been well re- marked, by a late writer, that " the record of enterprising hardihood, physical endurance, andi^steady perseverance, •displayed in overcoming elements the most adverse, will tft» worthiest ^ moffiori^ of human enterprise." "How shi^ I admu^e," says Purchas, "your heroic y rNTRODirCTION. coiirage ye marine worthies, beyond aU names of wor- ibness ! that neyther dread so long eyther the presence or absence of the sunne; nor those foffgy mysts temnes i^ous wmds, cold blasts, sndwe andXyle^the^P e ! nor the unequall seas, which might amaze the hearer, and amate the beholder when the Tritons and • Nepiime's selfe would quake with chiUing feare to behold such m(Mi. strous icie ilands, rentmg themselves withterrour of, their own inassmes, and disdayning otherwise both the sea's sorereigntie and the sunne's hottest violence, musterino- tiiemselyes in those watery plaines where they hold a con- taiiual cmll warre. and rushmg one upon another, make Tmdes and waves give backe ; seeming to rent the eares of others. whUe they rent themselves with crashing and sphttm^ their congealed armours." ^ A^ ^^^^X^''^ ^\^ polar seas of the northern hemisphere clustered with lands, that the long winter months se^e to accumulate held ice to a prodigious extent, so as to form an ahnost impenetrable barrier of hyperborean frost— "A crystal pavement by tlie breath of Heaven Cemented firm." Although there are now no new continents left to dia, cover, our mtrepid British adventurers are but too eaaer to achieve the bubble reputation, to hand down th^eir names to future ages for patient endurance, zeal, and en- terpnse, by explorations of the hidden mysteries of— ,™ ^ " the frigid zone, Where, for relentless months, continual night Holds o'er the glittering waste her starry light ;• by undergoing perils, and enduring privations and daiigers. which -the- mind in its reflertive Znente shudders to contemplate. "^uuicuui It is fair to conjecture that, so intense is the cold and so hmited the summer, and consequently so shori the time allowed for a transit within th2 Arcti circle from Baffin s Bay to Behrmg's Straits, that a passage, ^yl^ iwXlrwr'' ^"°/ W «se as a cl^nel. It 18 not likely that these expeditions would ever have been persevered in with so much obstinacy, had the p'speete now opening on the world of more practicable con- nexions with the East ^ been . known forty yeai. a.o. N o w that tho^Baered d emaiids^^TimflDTwiavrh^ answered, very little more will be heard abovft the north- west passage^ to Asia; which, if ever found, must be always hazardous and protracted, when a short and quigk -^ t 'r'f-,-"i-n-ni I 8 PROGRESS OP AKCnC DISCOVERY. Hi ! ©ne can be accomplislied by railroads throuffh America, or «anals across the Isthmiis. A thorough knowledge of the relative boundaries of land andocean on this our globe has in all ages, and by aU countries, been considered one of the most important desiderata, and one of the chief features of popular infor- mation. . But to no country is this knowledge of such practical utility and of such essential importance as to a maritime nation like Great Britain, whose mercantile marine vjsits every port, whose insular position renders her completely dependent upon distant quarters for half the necessary supplies, whether of food or luxury, which her native population consume, or which the arts and manufactures, of which she is the emporium, require. With a vast and yearly increasing dominion, covering almost every region of the habitable globe,— the chwl ot our colomes bemg a chart of the world in outline, for we sweep the globe and touch every shore,— it becomes neces- sarv that we should keep pace with the - progress of L/Olonization, by enlarging wherever possible our maritime discoveries, completing and verifying our nautical surveys, miproving our meteorological researches, opening up new and speedier periodical pathways over the oteans which were formerly traversed with so much dISger. doubt, and difficulty, and maintaining our superioritf as the greatest of maritime nations, by sustaining that high and distinguished rank for naval eminence which has ever attached to the British name. ^ The arduous achievements, however, of our nautical discoverers have seldom been appreciated or rewarded as they deserved. We load our naval and military heroes— the men who guard our wooden waUs and successfully hght our battles— with titles and pensions ; we heap upon these, and deservedly so, princely remuneration and aU manner of distinctions ; but for the heroes whose patient tod and protracted endurance far surpass the tur- moil of war, who peril their hves in the cause of science. ^^Nu^ '^^^"i. ^r ^^*"^« ^ pestilential cliinates, famine, and the host of dangers which environ the voyager and traveller m unexplored lands and unknown seas, we have oniya place m the niche of Fame. What honours did England as a maritime nation confer on Cook, the foremost of her naval heroes,— a man wh ose life was s acrificed for his c ountry P His widow had an^amiuity of 2007., an J his surviving chUdren ~ ^51. each per annum. And this is the reward paid to the ^B m UrrKODUCTION. _ to the cause of nautical Sce^J'U^T ^^^^ ^^^^ered If we glance at the results of Co^f^ "^^ insignificance ! to him we are indebted for ?he^„!7°W^)"^ ^^ thai islands and colonies planted in the^S'fl^\?^««^^^^^ of mined the conformatmrT o«^ -facific; that he deter ^d iolets, of N^w Hiu&'^irKl- Ptical position of thenorrt. 4. f *^Wi«hed the geoc^^ ascertained the trendb^ nf 7i:^'*^'''' '^°^e« of AmS the north of BehrS Str^V ''^ "^^ ^^^^^^ shores ?<; South Pole, andSraorZ"' ^PP^^^^W nearer the ;-eg:ions, than all X nStJrrJh'''t' ? *^^ ^^^ On the very shores of their 7 .° ^^. Preceded him tremity of Kamtschatka hi« «T ^""P""^' ^<= the ex the Russians to examine the T'^^ ^"°^"« ^^^t taught lands which border TJpP ^^""T^ trendings of the tourhood of the Ircti fi^lT ^''^' ^ *^^ neigh! imtem and western coitsTbo;. f \^.^^^r«d both the iigh a latitude as to decfde beCdtn^)!?!^ Straits to so the line of coast, nor theselnrJt^ ^^^ ^""^ ascertained continents of Asia and Ame W^^' ^^"^^^^^ ^^ the Zo ■ no more than justice to^M!^i] / • ''''^' certainly, does he adds, " the solu fon of thi^^'^"^"' ^^nntiymal when served for oiu- great n«v.- . ^^^P^^tant problem wair? must exult fh^i^lt ^^^^^^^^r, and everv Fn^i^f^^" fnrthnl ; ■ ^h® discoveries of CnJh^- "'Englishman C:T '> "'^^'""tic cte;,™'''' important S T »go the celebrated Bnioe of Kb^^j, SB3iEr3rtEri;u*«jr"-.T^ HP ;: I I, ,(r? 10 PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY. by a 'series of soundings and observations taken m'the jRed Sea, now the great highway of overland eastern traffic, rendered its navigation more secure and punctual. How was he rewarded % the then existing ministry ? Take a more recent instance inr the indefatigable energy of Lieutenant Waghom, E.N., the enterprising pioneer of'the overland route to India. "What does not the commerce, the character, the reputation, of this country owe to his inde- fatigable exertions, in bringing the metropolis into closer connexion with our vast aiid in»portant Ii;idian empu^e P And what was the reward he received for the^iacrifices he made of time, money, health, and life P A paltry annuity to himself of 100?., and a pension to his widow of 251. per ann^mj Is it creditable to us, as the first naval power of «the world, that we should thus dole out miserable pittances, or entirely overlook the succe^ful patriotic exertions^^jad scientific enterprises and dii^overies of private i§(aipa-' turerg, or public commanders P . # The attractions of a summer voyage along the bays alid seas where the sxm shines foij^our months at a time, ex- ploring the bare rocks and everlasting ice, with no com- panion but the white bear or the Arctic fox, may be all very romantic at a distance ; but the mere thought of a winter residence there, frozen fast in sxme solid ocean, with snow a dozen feet deep, the therift^eter ranging from 40° to 50° below zero, and. ijot a" glirtipse of the blessed sun from November to Fet)ruary, is enough to give a chiU to all adventurous notions. But the officers and men engaged in the searching expeditions aftet Sir John Franklin calmly weighed all these difficulties, and boldly went forth to encounter the perils and dangers" of those icy seas for th^e sake of their noble fellow-sailor, whose fate was so long a painful mystery to the world. It has been truly observed, that " this is a service for which all officers, however brave and intelligent they may be, are not equally qualified j it requires a peculiar tact, an inquisitive and persevering pursuit after details of fact, not always interesting, a contempt of danger, and an enthusiasm not to be damped by ordinary difficulties." The records which I shall have to give in these pages of voyages and travels, unparalleled m their perils, their duration, and the protracted sufierings which many of ^tem eatailed Off the adventnrera, will Jmnff out in tkiM relief the prominent characters who hfk<^ figured in Arctic Discovery, and whose names will descend to posterity, em- \ FIRST VOYAGE OF CAPTAIN ROSS. n ^H^oji^STon the scroll 'of Fame fn^ fi^ • t.. We tried «.e» ..ettl^ntSf^t^^H^He^ma, / Capt. John Ross's Voyage, 181^! find a passage by sea I»tw.t.%i.i»^»„6— -^ 13 ..1^5** ■\ •■:;■■< PRQCtl^l^'^ o|» 4rC!TIG discovery. V- . "f *■ ; r - rf ' .-if' 1 Isabella, Captain — John Eoss. ' Lieutenant— W. Eobertson. Purser-^ W. Thom. SuT^eon^— John Edwards. » Assistant Surgeon— C. J, Beverley. Admiralty Midshipmen— A. M. Skene and James Clark Ilbss. . Midshipman and Clerk — J. Busltoan. """• Greenland Pilots— B. Lewis* master ; T. Wilcox, mate. 'Captain (now Colonel) Sabine, R.A. ^ John Sacheuse, an Esquimaux interpreter. ' 45 petty officers, seamen, and marines. Whole complenjenjt, 57. Alexander.' Lieutenant and Commander— William-Edward Parry (now Captain Sir Edward.) Lieutenant— H. S. Hoppner (a first-rate artist.) Purser— W. H. Hooper. ^ Greenland PUots- J. Allison, master; J. Philips, mate. Admiralty Midshipmen— P. Bisson and J. Nius. Assistant Surgeon — A. Fisker. Clerk— J. Halse. 28 petty officers, seamen, &c. Whole complement, 37. On the 2nd of May, the four vessels being reported fit for sea, rendezvoused in Brassa Sound, Shetland, and the two expeditions parted company on the following day for their respective destinations. On the 26th, the Isabella fell m with the first iceberg, which appeared to be about forty feet high and a thonsand feet long. It is hardly possible to imagine anything mjS)re exquisite than the variety of tints which these icebergs display; by night as well as by day they glitter with a vividness of colour beyond the power of art to represent. While the white portions have the brilliancy of silver, their colours are as various and splendid as those of the rambow ; their ever-changing disposition producing effects as singular as they are new and interesting to those who nave not seen them before. On the 17th of June, they reacted Waygatt Soimd. ^^yQ^^^^P^scoIslan d, where they fou nd forty-five wt^a^ Retained T)yTEi ice. Waygatt Island, from observations taken on shore, was found to be 5° longitude and 30 VOTAOB H^PTAIN ROSS. ' JS AdSr^Ity^^tiJ^^- *\^-«- as laid down in the the ice, and by SSt of towt;Zl'"'**'^^P*'«*ge« ti^ough was made witJthe ship^rt§S^7^^^^^^^ . ice-floes closinff in m>on them fl,;! ? ""^/^y' ^^en two sQniction, and it was on?v hwv: ^^^^^^^ inevitable de- ^ they .hove thro^JT iS^ o^eX^^ ^Tf ^ ^^^^ warping, towing, and trac£n0- wt!l iT^® labours of severe. This ^SgTSbfur'haJS^'^^r % ^eiy great amusement to the man <,riSr Tf^ ^^^^' afforded Sie exercise of their ^t wh^'n^™^ frequent occasion for ally fell in tiirou^h hdeJ tZHZlf *^^ ^^^ ^^^'^^io^- of the ice. ^ covered with snow or weak parts nortniSfof'tKr Icf? "^' '""^ --^ -- to the forming an imp^'sablTbSer ^he^'r^-^^^^^^^'^ ^^J' bemg |om I060 to 200oShigh P'''^P^^^« ^«^t the sia r)^^^^r^JTt^'S^t^i ^^\ Sacheuse, interpreter, was sent on shor?fn n ^'*'''? England as « natives. About a doz^ c^e ^^..^^^^^^^^^ate with the importanf diSorwIuch SrsSr- ^'l^'^^? ^^ ^he gave him, he performed tL^ffiPr''' ^^owledge now monies. An IsqSS ^^S fn 1T*^" ^^ *^« «ere one cJf H.Ms4nh?Je icy seas ofX'^'^5 ^^°^ «^ office somewhat new but Saif 1 • YJ^^nland, was an performed his funcSsS^a^nn^"'"^^'^^^ ^ot hav? 5id not belong even to Ch ^ ^t^- ^«?-e appropriate. It # lite Jack, the discordant mi«lffl? ""J^^ own person, preter, draiightsma^ Cd m«^fl *f'''''' ""^ seamanf inter- with those Sf an ^tiVe fiS „/ T'^^onies to a ball, white bears. A dSL of ,»-« i^ ' 1-^^ * ^^*^ of with span ^^'^^ g^^j^'^^faawi,x,r^.,.,^ presented^it in a most SecS^T 7 ^ '^Pt^^^- He -nne^to the damsel, ^I^^^^TLI^ZZTI^ mm •Mi«i * Ii ill ■T ill; iiii III It!) 14 mooBEss OF AicrFia dibcoyebt. firom her finger and gave it to him in return, rewarding him, at the same time, with an. eloquent smile, wnicH could leate no doubt on pur Esquimaux's mind that he had made an impression on her hesurt." (Vol. 1, p- 67-8*) On the 5th of August the little auks {Mergulm alle,) were exceedingly aoyndant, and many were shot for food, as was also a large gull, two feet nve inches in length, which, whe^ killea, msgorged one of these little birds entire. A fortnight later, on two boats being sent from the Isabella to procure as many of these birds as possible, for the purpose of preserving theoi in ice, they returned at midnight with a boat-load of about 1500, having, on aa average, killed fifteen at each shot. The boats of the Alexander were nearly as successful. These birds weise afterwards served daily to each man, and, among other ways of dressing them, they were found to make excellent soup — not inferior to hare soup. Not less than two hundred auks were shot on the 6th of August, and served out to the ships' compuiies, among whose victuals they proved an agreeable variety, not having the fishy flavour that might be expected from their food, which cwiaistB of Crustacea, small nshes, mollusca, or marine vegetables. On the 7th of August the ships were placed m a most critical situation Iff a gale of wmd. Tne Isabella was lifted by the pressure of ice floes \heKf^te,^^^^^^^ at It without a murmur reiresned, and contmmng sitt\?d'!rle^"Srdl '^yr^-^-^cn.. oi Au^uatofrtheextenSt« inLf '^^''d onthe 30th of SoTnd. The en ^fw^^^^^^ ^ncasW mfis ranged from 650 to JS&^thoL ^^'rf, *^" ^^^- Koss's own ca)8ervationH Vm ft- ,:• -^ s^aU now quote hisunfortunarS^ortTa^n ' T^^^?' because Irom taiBs, stretcbilTrL iLrfi^fL-f^u^ *^^ Crokermoun- the ridicule and S^edi? d^^ ^ '^'^^** ^^1» o^ '^unte, and douS hiiLTfc''^ 1««. *tt«ched to hi» (he sap)' wj dwt^d fo^^^^ 'SEf?'^"-:' ^^ *^« 31st extended from tTJ^^Jh L^,.^ *^' *^* the lanrrnill | -fj tn iiv i . l ■■ ' i wna= ^^^^iM ^^ I! f^i: W^ PROGRESS OP ABOnO DISOOYEBT. nest, and at twelve reported to me that before it became thick he had seen the land across the bay, except for a very short space. " At three, I went on deck ; it completely cleared for ten minutes, whenJE distinctly saw the land round the bottom of the bay, forming a chaiu of mountains connected with those which extended along the north and south side. This land appeared to be at the distance of eight leagues, and Mr. Lewis, the master, and James Haig, leading man, being eent for, they took its bearings, which were inserted in the log. At tnis moment, I also saw a continuity of ice at the distance of seven miles, extending from one side of the bay to the other, between the nearest cape to the north, which I named after Sir George Warrender, and that to the south, which was named after Viscoimt Castlereagh. The mountains, which occupied the centre, in a north and south direction, were named Croker's Mountains, after the Secretary to the Admiralty." (Vol. 1, p. 241-46, 8vo edit.) They next proceeded to Possession Bay, at the entrance of the Strait, where a great many aniTn^lB were observed. Deer, fox, ermine, bears, and hares, were either seen, or proved to be, in abundance by their tracks, and the skeleton of a whale was found stranded about 500 yJEurds beyond high water mark. Finding, as jEoas supposed, no outlet through Lancaster Strait, the vessels continued their progress to the southward, exploring the western coast of BaflSn's Bay to Pond's Bay, and Booth's Inlet, discovering the trendmg of the land, which he named North Galloway, and North Ayr to Cape Adair, and Scott's On September the 10th, they landed on an island near Cape JEglmgton, which was named Agnes' Monument. A flag-staff and a bottle, with an account of their proceedings, were set up. The remains of a temporary habitation of some of the Esquimaux were here observed, with a fire- place, part of a fiuman skull, a broken stone vessel, some bones of a seal, burnt wood, part of a sledge, and tracks of dof^s, Ao. While the boat was absent, two large bears swam off to the ships, which were at the distance of six miles from the land. They reached the AUxand^, and were imme- diately attacked by the boats of that ship, and killed. One, which was shot through the head, unfortunately lanlu-thc. oth c rron b e ing wounded, att^kinl the botttwr ■nd showed considerable play, but was at length secured • «nd towed to the Itabella by the boats of both ships. The VOYAGE OP BUCHAN AND PRANKUN. 17 animal weighed llSlilbs., besides the blood it had lost which was estimated at 301bs. more ' On the foUomng day. Lieut. Parry was sent on shore to long. 3869 yards broad and 51 feet high, being agromdiJ 61 fathoms When thev had ascendid to th! t^Twch Ze^^' of tt' '^'^ h^ '^ ^l^' ^^^ bear V^^ possession ot the mass, who, much to their mortification sTa'f'm'theTd"'' fr.^^' ^'^^'^^ hesiS intoihe sea trom the edge of the precipice, which was fifty feet I^m careful observation it was found that there was no such land m the centre of Davis Strait as Jam™ Island, which was laid down in most of the eCte Nothing deserving of notice occurred in the subseqS^nt llTstrait*^' '""'' P"* ^'^P^ Walsingham to Sw. l,;Jln!/'*?^^''*''b®''.^*^°« '^"^^ed. the limit to which his instructions permitted him to remain out Eoss shan^S has course homewards, and after encZtering a sever^ Utl 5 N P' ^r^'^; ^^^^ ^ Grimsby Holds on S^ Ai^t ^P7.«°^ber. As respects the purposes of Arctic Jonro7;.*^'? ^°^^^" ""^T be'^considereSXost a wlnk Cfn.l*^^ important inlets and sounds of Baft's Bav havmg been explored, and aU that was done was to defin« gore clearly the land-bdmds of Davis 8t?^t™d Baffin's Bay if we except the valuable magnetic and oXr obser vations made by Oapt. Sabine. Ae commander of the' expedition was promoted to the rank of captain on pavW off the ships m December. 1818 ^«»F''»"i on paymg nfftZT""^ °^ tis voyage, published by Capt. Boss is J^»truct.o™, of hi. routine letter. «,d «rde"'toT. 'ffioe^^; BUCHAN AND FhaNKLIN. Y Dorothea and Front to Pole, 1818. In conj^ction with the expedition of Capt. John Ross wa^ that sent out to the coast 6f Spitzbergen. and of S emtrnZ^'^t' P"*'"^^^^ * °»«** intere tSg ai^un Zci Th/\ '"""^^r? ^"«^* illustrations from h^ Sl^u hiid?t!J^'' 'g^ of Jtwy g i v e n to Capt D. lUn^lm t ^- wiionada few years previously conductedTverv inteivHt fir! t 3 '^^'^J '"^ *^^ ^^*«"^' of NewfoundlTnd The first and most important object of thii expedition was the ^m -T-Trmri-gB 19 miOGRESS or AROnC DISCOVEBT. discoyerr of a paafia(^«: oyer or aa near the Pok, aft might be possible, and through Behring'sStraits into the Pacific. Bat it was also hoped that it might at the same time' be the meaBs of improving ^^le^" geography and hydro- graphy of the* Arctic reffions, of which so httle was at that time known, and contribute to the adyanoement of science and natural knowledge. The objects to which attentioB was speciaUy pointed in the Admiralty instructions, were the yariation and inclination of the magnetic needle, the intensity of the n^agnetic force, and how far it is affected by atmospherical electricity ; the temperature of the air, the dip of the horisont, refraction, height of the tides, set and y^ocity of the currents, depths and Sound- ings of the sea. Collections of spedmens to illustrate the animal, mineral, and yegeta^le kingdoms, were also directed to be made. , .. . The officers and crew appointed to thefle vessels were: — ^ Dorothea, 382 tons. Capt*in>*-*-D4vid Buchan. Lieuteoant— A. Morell. Surgeon — John Duke. Assistant-Surgeon — W. G. Borland. Purser — John Jermain. Astronomer — George Fishor. Admiralty-Mates— -C. Palmer and W. J. Dealy. Greenland Pilots — P. Brucey master ; G. Crawliurd, mate. 45 Petty Officers, Seainen, Ac^ Total complement, 55. Trent, 249 tons. lieutenant and Commander — John !Franklin. Lieutenant — Fred. W. Beechey (artist). Purser — W. Barrett. Assistant-Surgeon — A. GilfiUah. dmiralty Mates — A. Beid and G«orgo Tlack. Greenland Pilots — G. Fife, master, and G. Kirby, mate* 80 Petty OflScers and Seamen. Total complement, 38. I Haying been properly fitted for the service and taken on board two years provisions, the ships sailed on the 25th of Aptil. The Trent had hardly got clear of the . riv er b efore she spranyifc^ leafed aad^ wiw de^Hiae4^-ttfc» — port of Lerwick nearly a fortnight undergoing repairs. On the 18th of May, th^ ships encountered a severe VOTAOE OF BtTOTAir AND FHAmom. IJ formerlT so noted forit. «.!.; v'- *"° '""S' 1' *> E.. ?m«l on a Incraa™ trad^^Tnd? , Sf^tS'^r J foroil, as many a» a thciT,»nLi -t; ^i ^ P.^ *° *^® island turedbythTcreTTof asZAS^W,! bemg often cap- seren hWs. "'^^. '*"? "^ *^« conrBe of six or flo^Lrh^Tn.letof'^Lr;^^^^^^^ *^.-^^ '^^ «-a^ pMt, was «W, and these fmmTw ^oaj^d in succession with peculiar attention fwT +K "* ""^T^^*^ ^^'^ ^^^^rded assmned. The pn^ess ^Tvl«t,^^*'«T ^^^^P^ *W rinth of frozen mSLonPnfT^ *^f^^^ ^'^''^ » ^^b/ thatofferintrSir^^'it^^^^^^^ out of their beds till . it*. iT ^^ J*™"' *^ "few Capt. Bee^LyX ii«phie^a^T„ '^i^S '•'^ »"««■ describe. theVarnaprS':^4d*!j;'?r *" crew, who wx)uld nwhuna ull i, ? ,3® ^^^'^ ^<>«*® o^ora thelessimpT^bJeSof fhr^^^K^**** ^*^ indifference been a coSibSftion of t^" itt'^V <>' i* might har^ cannot be denied that thTnniu P^^^^^^m^na; for it floating n,a|ses.™tl5^^S^^ ^^ ^ effect produced br the vattTkL iF? j ^ °^ *be singular cast his fierv Wms ovI^{ • ^*'5^® ^* ^^icb the siw rajs were t^'SuXiU^^^^ tS lities of thefloraSd faninJT^**^^T *^«" t*^« i^equa. Jhapes, either ^Sy^fSleter;f^'"*5?^^^^^ the unequal refraction of^! 7 V^^ ^^ distorted V imagination ^^Z^lf^^S^^^^^^ ^1'^ ^ *^« trace in various direSs LeSTectu^^^^^^ ^*^^ *^ and caves here and f h«..- ^fj^^.^ctural edifices, grottos metals. So gSie^r in7« J'**^"?u^ ^ ^^ ^^^^ Precious that, in direcS^^iiul °f tT"* ^^' IT?*^^^ "^i*t«i. awhile deviated ?rom o^nantipal 2'"'^ ^^"^ *^«^^ ^« ^^^ our course for a c^^W tew^ /^''^*'^^°^' ^"<^ "'^^P^l ihe increasing difficultifii nf fk;- • • . however, directSlXi?Xnti^ t: " *oia -Utttfrjthe littlrrotffeB risft I'n «,,7i; \,„l:u„_- TT -^ told Uiat ILb 'l7tVir.ny " - ^^^ S n^t Sou^hf m'^k^'' ""^ ^^^ ™^^«' t^e estimate "o» oe taouRht to bear any reduction." . ^ I Hi 22 PR0(5HESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY. *f£^r.f fl *^e'', earliest excnrsions in this bay was an jays Captam Beechey "may now. peXhaps, be seen at the height of about 2000 feet, a staff O Snce carried a red wp^wl ^^iT Pjf"*^^ ^^'T .*^ ^^ *^e greatest height U.r.K^^'' *"* *."ri: ^"^^7 ^ consequence of the stelp: »es8 ot the ascent but maanly on account of the detached rTf ''f T^ ''fe''^ * "^^^7 «%tt matter would displace and hurl down tlie precipitous declrvitv. to the Stter destruction of him who depended upon tReir support, or who might happen to be m their path below. OWlatter part of our ascent was, indeed, much against our inclina- tion ; but we found it impossible to descend by the waV we had come up and were compelled to gain a ledge which promised the only secure restingWe we coSd stickmg the tomahawks with which we were provided into ot these instruments we were obliged to leave where thev S t'T' "^„"°af^S"ence of the danger that attended ^e^ recovery Durmg the vessel's detention in this Arbour, the bay and anchorage were completely sur- . When the first party rowed into this bay, it was m quiet possession of herds of walruses, who w^re sp™ accustomed to the sight of a boat that they Lsemb^d about her, apnarently EigHy incensed atilie inCs oT and swam towards her as thougli they would have torn toul'^St^'^l^'' with their tusks. "^ Their hides were ™ tough that nothmg but a bayonet would pierce -them The wounds that were inflicted only servel to increase ^eir rage and it was with much difficW they we?e kept off with fire-arms. Subsequently the boats weTt better prepared and more strongly supported, "and mry of these monsters were kill^; soiie w7re foukeen ^ee^in In^h and nme feet girth, aiid of such prodigioui^eS that the boat 8 crew could scarcely turn them. "^"^^^ whin fK P' ^^^^°\ ^^^^ "^y <^^y« ^^ their anchorage when they were truly astonished at the sight of a stranfe boat pulling towards tiie ships, which was found to beS ' Altho— ^ -^ — arr"^L,:. -*5gh7eqTiriiTi!HTpm oTtb^'v^^s^^ wP^'n^* K "T*,^^ *^"^«' *°d *fte^ » careful sc^i^y went on board the I}orothea ; Captain Buchan gave tWi 4 1 m I TPYAGE OP BUCHAN AND PRAIfKLIlf. 23 of a. small cove, about four miles dis W frnt! iSf t^"^ rx^heiie he found a comfortable wood^w\Sn-*^S *^^' , mo8« and stored witi renison, wUd ducks*' ^^ ^'"^ ^*^ 1«bly the^mostnorthe^^"^^^^^ tl^wF?' ^^i ■ -our .lobe, a spirit of ^atilSdr^d devotion t f'g^ty rarely exercisel in ciyili2^<^^te^^^^ ^Onl-^" . ^ff from the boat and acproaeW ^^^ • J. ^^^^and- people knelt upon its thSo't^^d Xed'^'^f ^'^'^^ ^ Alvi jr aid^^VSiV t^^^ ettom ^T f these recluses were in th^ fmhif «*■ \ ^*^ .* custom which •retorn to thetTaMtatn'^'^^'Lty'Try" tt 't regarded as an instance of tli^ui^^'fl • i^«.®^®^*^' ^^ leagues to the noHZ^dtr^d'ift^V^™^''f^ state as it had been left oi^^^H?r9 w ^T^^'^ " "■« some endeaToura. byT^^ aSd^l"^' ^ ^ 5?"* "^ "" their driven in a cklm hTfl,,. h """"TO?. tSe vessels were and the increa,?is ^eril o/Srl!^^ *^"' P»"^'i '^^^^ who.?''irr45\^thfc^a°rl''- ?' ""%*■- above their natural ];,,«„/« ^^^ dutvTwTr? «o conitantl7engaf d fn I? T^ ^^'««' duty, that their time was divided Eof }'^ Jiaraasing the wmdlass and the pump untfuA^'* ^''*^^^^3^ between fio fatigued that the 8iK?wi^f^-'' *V^"^th became Dm-ing this period, however thl^l t"°^'^J augmented fortunately discovered Tdkf^*"*^'^^ ""^ the leak wm ' ^ officer and a pSv^? ii^ ^T^« repaired. ™ , pay a visit to the srore^atout ?h7e« f '^' ^^''^- to lost themselves in the fog ^d snow ?^ ^""« ^^^tant. for sixteen hours, until om>?? ^' *°^ wandered about fatigue they sat down ?n a sTat^.?^ ""'^ ^^*' ««^<^^ ^d piece o£ice, determined to subml f°/ .despondency upon a Their tSubles are thus told^ * ^^'""^^^ ^ Province were ^etTs^^^f ^^^ «^ -^^pon which ther. one slippery piece to The^other or"''''^ '"^T^^^ ^om upon pieces of ice and^^?. ^^^^t^'^Pt whatever, were llft^ yinds and tides. 'Cese"wf?^*fV^^ "^eicy of he tion, they took the W « ^ Jhe probability of a semi^ shares, the small qutntit?^o7*"*^^*^ ?^ diviLg,TeS remaining, as also Cfr ^s^^ef o/^^ T^ ^^^^^^ th^jTad They dso took it in turns to i^"^*^? "^^^ ammunition being heard from the sS ^ ^^ '"^'^*«' ^ tie hope of -tne reports of tho fi,i^ / *»■ ii M ! ! 'I' ill Eli i ' ' PROGRESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVERY. The pressure of the ice against the vessels now became Very great. "At one time, when the Trent appeared to be so closely wedged up that it did not seem possible for her to be moved, she was suddenly lifted four feet by an enormous mass of ice getting under her keel; at anotiier, the frag- ments of the crumbling floe were piled up under the bows, to the great danger of the bowsprit. " The Dorothea was in no less imminent danger, especiidly from the point of a floe, which came in contact with her side, where it remained a short time, arid then glanced ofP, and became cheeked by the field to which she was moored. The enormous pressiire to which the ship had been sub- jedfced was now apparent by the field bemg rent, and its point broken into iragments, which w«re speedily heaped up in a pyramid, thirty-five feet in height, upon the very summit of which there appeared a huge mass, bearing the impression of the planks and bolts of the vessel's bottom." Availing themselves of a break in the ice, the ships were moved to an anchorage between the islands contiguous to the Cloven Chff*; aiid on the 28th of June, anchored in fifteen fathoms water, near Yogel Sang. On the islands they found plenty of game, and eider ducks. The island of Vogel Sang alone supplied the crews with forty rein-deer, which were in such high condition that the fat upon the loins of some measured from four to six inches, and a carcass, ready for being dressed, weighed 285 lbs. ' Later in the season, the deer were, however, so leian that it was rare to meet with any fat upon them at y^ On the 6t]i of July, finding the ice had been driven to the northward, the ships again put to sea, and Captain Buchan determined to prove, by a desperate effort, what advance it was .posaiWe to make by dragging the vessels through the ice whenever the smallest openmg occurred. This laborious experiment was. performed by fixing large ropes to iron hooks driven into the ice, and by heaving upon them with the windlass, 45>8lirty removing obstructions in the channel with saws. But in swte of all their exertion s, the most northerly position 'jiMned was 80° 37' N. Although fastened to the ice, Ae ships wwe now drifted bodily to the southward by the prevailing current. They were also much injured by the pressure of hummocks and fields of ice. On the 10th of July, Capfam ^eechey telTs us, ™„ Trent sustained a squeeze which made her rise four feet, and heel over five streaks j and on the 15th and 16th, both 1^ VOTAOB OP BUOBAK ^ ^^„^ yesseJs suficred considerahJfl /la«, ie says, ''^e obserTed a fieJ?!^^^ breai up.and tro pieces p^eloi'' /'^*J^ tJiickne;^ tremendous crash " Thp ,'«1 ^^^ ^^^ed over with 1 above their bulwi;:ks. PortniSwh ^'^^^ -- PM up pressure, or they must WttJ'tl' ^'''f' ^«^ *« th? The ^'•^^J! received her greatest d«l"* ''^^' ^^^^^ed in. and was so twisted that thp ^« '*?® ^P^^ t^e quarters open a^d the paneJs t? s^^'e sZf f "".*^'^ eabLrflew her false sternpost was m^ved t?r '^ ?'' ?^ ^^'^^S' ^Me bers cracked to a most sif ^^® "^^^^s. arid her tim suffered st.Jl ^ore :TmeX"; b'ef '"*• ^^^ ^'-*^- two planks on the lower deXZ .^ "^^^^ sprune, and doubled up and she othet^^e^Z:^^'' ^^^^ an'd af? S her hull. It was in vaiTtW L ^''^^^''^ed serious iniury iri V}^y efforts were IT e^^^'Z^'^f^P'^^^ ^^^ e^ht hours with unabated 15? ' *¥-"^^ continued for ice. Por nine successive £v«?iT^^ "^*^^^^J^ ^^^et with were occupied, night aiiddavTn?'"j''^^*^^« the crews tiie ice a fair trial hero +C J^hmkmgTie had ffiven examining its condiw'o^lrTif ^^^^ determined ?pon land, and in the event orrj*^^-^*«*^"^^<>ast of gS mT; to proceed rJZ 11^0^^^'"^?^^ ^-^VenZlue make m attempt between tWii ""5^ ''^ ^F^zbergen, and' On the 30th of July asuddpn, "^^ ^«^^ Zembl^ down the main bod/'ofrhe^^^^" ^^"'f o«> and brought ships were in such iiWSent d«« ""^S^ *^^™' «« that f e of safety was to takeTeS ^^^"^ *^^* ^^^^ only me^s Ixas been resorted to by Xp"^ • "^^1!*-^ Practic^e wS ^th:\xfe^aT^-^^^^^ to withstand T&te^^^^^j^^^^ ^^^ ^V^r^tion made esca^ from the dangers 1°'°"^^'' '^'^ ^^^ bai|:-bre^dS -ble. ^S^s^^^^lr^^^ of this as mu<^ a*pos. ^plates of iron fo^?e^tt?J;r''*^\^*^' ^^^^b^ese. P^ to ua as fenders, WetWSff' ^^^^h had been sup- £^e masts, at the same^^'*' P««^% about ^e W M ^?i the hatches C^ h^J^T'^7^^^ ^^^ditionS %the tmie these Precau^:nnXertit'^^^^^^ \ 28 PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERT. i .-.I, prqAch to the breakers only left us the alternative of either permitting the ships to be drifted broadside against the ice^ and so to take their chance, or of endeavouring to .force fairly into it by putting before the wind. At length, the hopeless state of a vessel placed broadside against so formidable a body became apparent to aU, and we resolved to attempt the latter expedient." Eagerly, but in vain, was the general line of the pack scanned, to find one place more open than the other. All parts appeared to be equally impenetrable, and to present one unbroken line of furious breakers, in which immense pieces^ ice were heaving and subsiding with the waves, and dashing together with a viorence which nothing ap- "parently but a sohd body could withstand, occasioning fiuc'h a noise that it was with the greatest difficulty the officers could make their orders heard by the crew. The fearful aspect of this appalling scene is thus sketched ofl" by Captain ^Beechey : — "Wo Is^guage, I am convinced, can convey an adequate idea of the ternfic grandeur of the effect now produced by the collision of the ice and the tempestuous ocean. , The Sea, violently agitated and roljing its mountainous waves afjaiiwt an opposing body, is 'at all times a sublime .and awful sight; but when, in^ddition, it encounters immense masses, which it has set inFmotion with a violence equal to its own, its effect is prodjfeioualy iiicreased. At one mo- ment it bursts upon Jhele^. icy fragments and buries them many feet beneath Mter"kve, and the next, as the buoyancy , of the depressMJ^bJ^ struggles for reascendancy^ the water rushes in|'foaming cataracts over its' edges ; whilst every individual mass, rocking and labouring m its bed, grinds again^r^d contends with its opponent, untU one is either feplit With the shock or upheaved upon the surface of the otl^. Nor is this collision confined to any par- ticular (TpOt i it is going on as far as the sight can reach; and when from this convulsive scene below, the eye is turned to the extraordinary appearance of the blink iu the sky above, where the unnatural clearness of a calm And silvery atmosphere presents itself, bounded by a dark hardline of stormy clouds, such as at this moment lowered over our masts, as if to mark the confines within which the efforts of man would be of no avail. The reader may imagine the sensation of awe which must accompany tl acc ompan y in the mind of the beholder. " " If ever," contmuei the narrator, •• the fortitude of ieameif was fairly tried, it was assurrdly not less so oh thil occasion ; and I will not conceal the pride I felt in wit- VOYAGE OP BUCHAlf AKD FRANKLIN. 29 werf ?88ueV W TA ^'"^"^" *i^^ j\ ^^^^^ *^^ orders were issued by the commander (the late Sir John Franklin) of our Httle vessel, and the tn-omntiS axtd^steadiness with which ii^ey weS. execu^d^th: ^^'^^ J^J labouring vessel flew before the gale, she soon ueared the scene of dwiger. ^."Each person instinctively secured his own hold, and Setemom^lT^ '^' ^^*«' ^^^^*^*»0 cutting hor way main body. Ik an mstant we aU lost our footing- thft from below bespoke a pressure which was ca&ulated to SL^r'^i^'T^i^P/"^^^^^^^^^- The vessel stigered under the shock, and for a moment seemed to recofl? bnt the next wave Curling up under her counter. Xve her about her own length within the margin of the iS wheJe t%^^^^- T, 'fu' ^^ ™ immediatefy thrown briadsfdo tlh^^ ^J *^^ succeeding wave, /hich beat iuriously tTmainTn^f ''i ^^'^ ^'T^^' ^^^.^^^'^^^ in contact wS It^JT^ body, leaving her weather-side exposed at the ST Wni° * ?'''^ ^^ ''" '^^^'^^ *^^«« ^«r own^limensions! Iliis unfortunate occurrence prevented the vessel noZ tratmg sufficyntly fax into the"^ ice to escape Ihe eE of ttXi^' *"n P r\^«' in a situation where she ™ assaifod on a^ sides by battering-rams, if I may uso thJ exjjression. ev^er^ one of which Tontest^d the smaU spSe which sire occupiPd. and dealt such unrelenting blowsK W.V^PP?"-'^ *° be scarcely any possibUity of savLVher from foundent^ Litera^lly tossedVrom piece to pie^e. we had nothing let but patiently to aiude the issue ; foi^ we could scarcely keep our feet, muchTess render my ^silt! ance to the vessel. The motion, indeed, was so «/at tha the ship 8 bell which in the heaviest gale of windO never S^ m,!ffl«f '^'.^"'^ •" oontinuSly. that i?w^rred to be muffled, for the purpose of escaping the unpleasimt association It was calculated to produce. "np^easant nlnnin^??*'?^*''?'''*/^''.'^®"'^' '^^ determined to attei^pt placmg the launch u|)on the ide under the lee. and hurhed fh. y n.yi ;^^"?' ?' . ^^^^V-^^ ^^^P reaso^iably entertained of "^X^^ ^* ^ *^ ^" ^ ^^^" *"^^°g"^ thVe^nftised mSS by ^1?//"' «"''«"?P'«»«" ■>« ""''dent in YajmoX neignt ot one wm aacertamed to be 149 feet A ft«i „ leffvorl I.* "f^'P'o^ber Capt/Fraiiklin and hi, party with M; Back an/?''*'^' ^'■^"^"? ««^ o^ i^ ^o^Pany wifcu .ULT. ijacjt* and a seaman named TTf^nKn^ ,^*i ^ itrtuc»diSTp"ii'o\Th: & '^^■ *a4 Mtr Hood, wfi9 fiid niaa( joi n edjjjr Jjr . KiVliardaoa i^ CurSnd uS«™*^' ' ry «r^itiou8 journey IM fstm it '! II r 32 PROGEIESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVERY. being so motildy that they were obliged to leave it behind. Arrangements were now made for their journey north- ward. Sixteen Canadian vojrageurs were engaged, and a Chipewyan woman and two interpreters were to be taken from Great Slave Lake. The wjiole stock of provision Jy could obtain before starting, was only sufficient for ^je day's sujpply, exclusive of two barrels of flour, thtee cases of preserved meats, somB chocolate, arrow-root, and portable soup, which had be^n brought from England, and were kept as a reserve for the .journey to the coast in the following season; seventy pounds of deer's flesh and a Httle baney were all that the Company "^s officers could give them. The provisions were distributed amon^ three canoes, and the piarty set off in good spirits- onThe 18th of July. They had to make an inroad very sdon on their preserved meats, for they were unfortunate in their fishing. ■ On the 24th of July, however, they were successful in shooting a buffalo in the Salt Eiver, after giving him fourteen balls. • At Moose Deer Island they got supplies from the Hud- ' Fon's Bay and North West Companies' officers, aiadon the 27th set out again on their journey, reaching Fort Provi- dence by the 29th. . Shortly after they had an interview with a celebrated and influential Indian chief, named Akaitcho, who was to fuTpish them with guides. Another Canadiaii vqyageur was hero : ■ engage(i and the party now consisted of the officers already named, ^Lt. Fred. Wentzfel, clerk of the N. W. , Fur Company, who joined them here, John Hepburn the English seaman, seventeen Canadian voyageurs, (one of whom> named Michel, was an Iroquois,) and three Indian - interpjeters, besides the wives of three of the voyageurs who had been brought on for the purpose of making clothes and fihoes for ijie men at the winter establish- ment. The] whole number were twenty-nine, exclusive of three children. I' give the list of those whose names occur most frequently in the narrative : J. B. Belanger, Peltier, Solomon Belanger, Samandre, Benoit, Perrault, Antonio Fontano, Beauparlant, Vaillant, Credit, Adam St. Germam, interpreter ; Augustus, and Junius, Esqui- maux interpreters. They had provisiohs for ten days' con- ■ sumption, besides" a little chocolate and tea, viz., two casks of flour, 200, dried rein-deer tongues, s6ine dried moose meat, portable soup, and a little arrow-root. A small extra cdnoe was provided for the women.and the jouqjey for the -Coppermine iRivcr waa" ' "^ "^ *^" '^^ * ''* {Al the Snd j>f Aujp Ll t j. The" party met with many . hardships— were placed on short diet — and some of the Canadians broke out into open * 5:fin"atSToia-,^.gJx^r5 Winter quarters. The toteJ leSrof VL """^^ *^«^ Chipewvan was 653 miles anH«ff. i • '^^^e from men had to traverseS x,oK«^? *^ Pf"' ^^^'- ^« the of 180 lbs., and T%mnZ7!T ^"^""r^F^^s with a load the whole upwarronsotSes ' ^'^^*' they Walked b of 'fnrrrru.i*t"t^'^ -^ ^^^ p-ty because, as th^r^Cd ofSr^ *^'™u *^ *^« «e^ and the immment dafger CaS VK^^ ^^ ^^^^^^ ' to abandon proceeding St seL^n^^u'^^ «%ed , contented himself wi4 Tlff^? *^°^ *^e "^ery iid Back and Kr Hood^n „ r f f *^^^' °^ *be 29th, Mi- interpreter egtrckn^^f^^^^^ with St. Genp'ain^i' with eight day! prov^^r!kim«?''' &^^' ^^^^i^bed They returned ortheToTh">r^* ?H ^^ «H"ed. rea^jhed and coasted PoSf^^ i?f ®^P' out with Mr. Back. His locks were matted with snow, and he was so incrusted with ice from head to foot, that they could scarcely recognise him. He reported that they had had a tedious and fatiguing journey to Fort Provi- dence, and for some davs were destitute of provisions. Letters were brought from England to the preceding April, and quickly was the packet thawed to get at the contents. The newspapers conveyed the intelligence of the death of George III. The advices as to the ex- pected stores were disheartening; of ten bales of 90 lbs. each, five had been left by some mismanagement at the •Grand Eapid on the Sattkatchawan. On the 28th of November, St. G«Tmain the interpreter, with eight Cana- dian voyageurs, and four Indian hunters, were sent off to bring up the stores from Fort Providence. On the 10th of December, Franklin managed to get rid of Akaitcho nnd hi s Tnr lia n pariy,^by- rp)prpiRPnting tp thpin tho j iu raircMo nnn m s i nn ia n party,^ by repreBen ting t o thtm r t^^t- wnpossibility of maintaining them. The leader, however. uls of wood or FRAKKUN'S >IB8T LAITB EXPEDITION 35 '^K^^p:^^^^^ and beauty by her'Lhratd^^ZnT ^f^^'f^^^^^ beWod successively to two husS- ^* f^^^^' ^^ bably have been the Vife of ^vm^r^f ^ ^^^^ P«>^ not re^ed her services Z Se ' '^^''' ^^*^«' ^ad ber^rr':-^:^^^^^ youn,Iady. but .fearmg that "W dauTSrHSfni ^^"^ fJ**'°? ^°r it. G-reat Chief who a-esided in FnS '^'?'^^ ^^^uoe the ongrinal!'' r^^esiaea m Jingland to send for the - almost etidy' ^1 Sel'r i'^iJ ^^-^^J ^^^^^ insisted fish, and occaI^^7b^;:'a*'fl^«-^ed twice a week ^^^ vegetables of any kiJd^On «„r,^ '^' ^"*. *^^;^ ^^d no cup of cbopolatef b^Li^LaS^r""^^^ '^'^ ^'^ » tbey regularly had twice ^ S^'^S^ ""'^ tea, which Candles were formed of rein dJ^wT^^^ without sugar, sbir^s ; and Hepburn acoSj^f^ol-r^l^P^ «f «°tton manufacture of soao from t^ ^^^/^^erable skill in the The stores were'^^^tly 100^^^^^^' -l^'' ^^ ^-^' , thev would have arrived bvXwV..^^ '* ^^ ^oped to We kept the fe^rZ As Jit? 5^^ ^^^^l). so^as receive a little flour and M h^k L^^^ ^^^^ co^^ld only great luxuries. ' ' ^*' ^""^^ ""^ ^^^ch were considered On the 16th. seven nf fK« ^ rum, one barrel powde^s^^^^ '^""^^^ ^^*^ ^^o kegs ot of Jobacco and som^e Shkg^*^ P°^^« ^^ ^all, two?X Slave Sker^Xt^^^^^^^^ evinced by their sledge coZ«Kf^^''*'^^«^«>'««% shoulders of their coate^ TW L^ ^^ Z'^"^ ^^^^ th^ to nmety pounds each exS n'p'It'^^'? ^"''^ «i^<7 provisions, which at Xrtk!^ m, . ?^ ^^f"" ^^^^ing an"d much more. We were i^H ^^^ ¥^^ ^««^ ^t least as proceeded forthwitlto SernVS^'"^^ •** **^«^ arrivaJ and each <,f the bousehold thTpTrtbn T"* ''^^.'•r^ ««"'to promised on the first day of^l S«/ ^^^^^^ had been were proof, were frozen f but aL^-T ' /^^ 'P^"^' ^^ich some time they flowed out ofTif ''^•"^ **^ *^« ^^e for Jbe temperature oTThe l^^J «" J^"'ll*^°«« ^^ ^oney! W^as instantly to convert^ M^^i? *^'' ^^^^^' ^^ so 4 V Il 3G PKOQRESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVERT. \ ' frozen had they fceen kept in contact with it ; yet each of thP ST'.'- «^«^°^«d his dram without ixpeHe^icin^ the shghteat mconyemence, or complaining of tooth-ache" oJi ^PP'.r^ ^>^^ *^" Canadians'^had topped the rum^ freely ^'^'^' ^""^ ^^^^^^ themselves ^aX wiS^'f^rfT?/*^' ^' ^'^*""^ «^^ St. Germain arrived. ^li» 5 Esquimaux mterpreters who had been engaged possessed of euphonious names, representing the beUy ^d the ear, but which had been Anghcised into AuguSH fe%^''?^i,*^"a.?^?*^« *^^y ^^d respectiveljKd at ■ fou? StYS .?^ f*>^er «Poke EngTish. T^ey brought - lour dogs with them, which proved of, great uJe durmff the season m drawing in. wood for fuel curing "^nn fn P^^' ^* tliis time. th6«e4th.of December, had gone on to Chipewyan to procure stores. On the 12th of vtnZ"^' T*¥^. P^*y «^ «^ °^«^ ^as sent to Fort Providence to bring up the remaining supplies, Mid these returned on the 5th of March. M^y of the cooT^ of meat which had been buried early in tL winter W^ nZl J''''5;if '^ l^ the wolves, and some of these aISs' fh« W ^^^i^^ t-?"u *^^ ^Z^"i«g«. even venturing upon ^Xlt of their kitchen. The rations were reduc^ from pefda^ aUowance of five ounces of animal foo^ On the irth^of March. Mr. Back returned from Fort Chipewywi. after an absence ef nearly five montS^ durmg which he hadperfoi^med a journey Jn foot JSTe han eleven hundrecf miles on snow shJes, withonl^the thermometer frequently at 4^° and once at 57°, and verv often paasmg several days without food. ^ 'r.A'i^^VA^ interesting traits of generosity on the part of the Indies axe recorded by IVfr. Back/ Often Lv cauah?liJh 1w^^ if"* *^'^ f ^'^' °^ ^^^' ^l^ch thej ^fSr^ ?® touchmg remark, " We are accustomed to starvation, and you are not." '^uimu. w TBtt-^ZfZ ^ *^' ^""""^^^ ^^^^ ««^ ^ ^^ nar- MsLi^.« nf """^ '^^'' ^^^^^* * fi«^' ^l^ich. with the JXwifil r""^ "^^^1^ ^^™P^^ ^^«°^ tl^e rocks (^' kind. ;^e? gTd enough for hungry men. While we were eating ft. I perceived one of t£e women busUy employed scrapinJ an ^^^^eyeonsjgtef oTpoimded mea^fat; £d agr^ter proportion of Indian'i anol deer's hair than either, and. ,„.„„.^^J^.^J afi^erf/--,^^ n^^ ve^ all-in, to an meat was expended and t^!*^^ r"^*«'« «toc£ of deer* consume a liSe poiSdeS mla? S^h TTu ^^^P^^ed to making pemmW. The n^f « - ^ ^^ been sared for ^d the£ meals, which hT^^^^l^'^^'^^^^^^ any fish' princip^^of sSTndlS^:* *^^. ^.^f^' «°°«i«ting even more privation T^f^ T^^®? *^^ eh Jdren, suffered site of .the iututn"nc^7J^^^^^^ ^^ the ^noVTnThe feet, bits of hide, and oS offal . w/^^ ^^^«' *8niuch more, preferred ctrtvm& ihf^t ^^"^ ^oaig^ sledges, others 13a, Dr. Bich3on sTnt b/.t^ "^*¥^ backs^n the witn the canoes,- whiob Jin ,1 u vyentzel and a partr water-course as f^r^S Mowin|ThJ Im followed himself wiirTT^lK ^ ^"^^e^I-ake, pJank- ^ On tie 16th the/r?! Sr^"^ "T"^ ™«»k o«n' Jisquunaux. ^^ *^^ "^ ^^th smaU parties of ' / \^ 38 PHOGRESS or AKCTIC DISCOVEBY. be forwarded to England. He was also instruoted to cause the Indians to deposit a relay of provisions at Fort Enterprise, ready for the party should they return that way. The remainder of the party, inohiding officers, amounted to twenty persons. The distance that had been traversed from Fort Enterprise to the mouth of the river was about 334 miles, and the canoes had to be dragged nearly 120 miles of this. ' Two conspicuous capes were named by Franklin after Hearne and Mackenzie ; and a river which falls into the sea, to the westward of the Coppermine, he called after his companion, Kichardson. ' On the 21 st of July, Franklin and his party embarked in their two canoes to navigate the Polar Sea to the east- ward, having with them provisions for fifteen days. On the 25 th they doubled a bluff cape, which was named after Mr. Barrow, of the Admiralty. An opening on its eastern side received the appellation of Inman Harbour, and a groupof islands were called after Professor Jameson. Within the next fortnight, additions were made to their stock of food by a few deer and one or two bears, which were shot. Being less fortunate afterwards, and with no prospect of increasing their supply of provision, the daUy allowance to each man was limited to a handful of pem- mican and a small portion of portable soup. On the morning of the 5th of August they came to the mouth of a river blocked up with shoals, which Franklin named after his friend and companion Back. The time spent in exploring Arctic and Melville Sounds and Bathurst Inlet, and the wilure of meeting with Esqui- maux from whom provisions ioould be obtained, precluded any possibility of reaching Eepulse Bay, and therefore hav- ing but a day or two's provision left, Franklin considered it prudent to turn back after reaching Point Turnagain, having sailed nearly 600 geographicsd miles in tracing the deeply indented coast of Cbronation Gulf from the Coppermine River. On the 22d Aug. the return voyage was commenced, the boats making for Hood's B-iver by the way of the Arctic Sound, and being taken as far up the stream as possible. On the 3l8t it was found impossible to proceed with them farther, and smaller canoes were made, suitable for crossing any of the rivers that might obstruct their progress. Tke weight carried by each man waa about 90 lbs., and witii this they progressed at the rate of- »milfrafr hoar, iftemdiBgreg t B . On the 5^ of September, having nothing to eat, the last piece of pemmican and a little arrow-root having PBANBIJH'S FIBST LAND HaEPEDITION. 3$ scireSy allayed th^pi""!?." *"■?• * ««A«r wUch cut up the animal wi the^„,t „? <• ■ '^ "^^ contents of its atomic I? j °^ ', '^'^ ""nutes. The the raw ^t:s1i^e^wL^e'^S''.ffr^ 'P'^'' "«* nounced by the moat S.!? ■»«« attacked, were pro- Wearie/^d worn out wM^'}''*'^' "' J? ^» e=cceli" the p„ty got ca^Se™ Id^n^ir^ Sff^^K^^^^^ was broken and abandoned WM> «n ■ ** T"*" scarcely to be credited tw ^eiu 2°, .™Pro"dence *^,'£™ n^ -dtetltstuSl '""''*" "*" wf pa4rVrre'd KiS: 5^^^^^^^ few^S^/eer'^ifflit-* 1 k'^.' »^ « m the previous spriZ The ti ™""'' "y •*" ""'"e" by burning, and no^d thl fW '^Tv""''""'* ^i^ble to the repMt. " **"• "'"^ »■"»« were added wul jXl^Se^Knt'li: ""Stel "" ^^^"^'' been demolished and X„j i i , ''°°»'l "^ooe had 23rd, and they we??taTeftwlo\*''<' '""^" "" «>• transport across the fitd nW ""^ """" °^ '"'*<" cleftXroZfnto S ^l^Tu''''- *r^«™J » «■» was putrid, bit litn.lir. .'S'""' the spring. It On the Ist of October one of the party, who had been PROGRESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVERT. «nlK ''''!?°^' ^J • "l^t* .^ *^^ ^^*^«^8 a^d backbone ot . another deer, which had be^n kiUed in the summer. The there stiU remaine^a quantity of the spinal marrow, wbch they had not been able to extract, this, although putnd was esteemed a valuable prize, and the spine being divided into portions was distributed equaUyf "After eatmg the maiTow (says Franklin), which waa so acrid aa to exconate the lips, we rendered the bones friable bv burning, and ate them also." ^ The strength of the whole party now began to Jail, from the privation and fatigue which they endured. t ranklm was m a dreadfully debilitated state. Mr. Hood was also reduced to a perfect shadow, from the severe bowel-complamts which the tri^e de roche never failed to give hmi. Back was so feeble as to require the support of Lt a^aI^^^' ^^^ ^"- Richardson had lameness superadded to weakness. | A rude canoe wa^ constructed of wiUows, covered with canvass m which the party, one by one, managed to reach' m safety the southern bank of the river on the 4th ot October, and went supperless to bed. On the follow- Jh^'^r™'^^' P/T^-''^ to setting out, the whole party atA, tW remains of their old shoes, and whatever scraps o? SitZ ^}% ^^^'. ^ strengthen their stomachs for the latigue of the day s journey. +1,^''' 5"^°^ ^T-k^^^^ d''^' *« d'd *^o or threeSuore of ip^X J^Vwl ^'■- ^^^^^Jso^ tiddly volunteered tc# remain with them, while the rest pushed 6n to FoiP Enterprise for succour. Not being a&e to find any trvp^l de roche they drank an infusion of the J^^^^dor tel^ J)lmt {Ledrum palustre, var. dectmhens), aoMte^a few morsels of burnt leather for supper. This (Sli&ied to be a frequent occurrence." W*^| Others of the party continued to drop down^h tatigue and wetness, until they were reduced to five p5i sons, besides Franklin. When they had no foocT or nourishment of any kind they crept under their blankets, to drown, if possible the gnawing pangs of hunger and fatigue bv sfeep. At length they reaclied Fort^Enter- pnse, and to their disappointment and grief found it a perfectly desolate habitation. There was no deposit of provision, no traxje of the Indians, no letter from Mr. Wentzel to point out where the Indians might b^ found. ^ft^Q^ ^q^ i m possible (Baya Franklin) to describe oitf— aensations after finfprinop fTno ■m^^,^^^\.^^ _i--j- _i t aensations after entenng this miserable abode, and dis- covering how we had been neglected: e fasunsuccess. dence. and sending succorSZ.!!'^''!*? F^'^^ 1*^0^- whether either he%?hi^ZZ7o^fTr''Ki^ *^°^^*^d to that place in the^i^P^^r/^ iS-x P.®^^^"^ the journey and his smSl ^LtyToHookL r^^^^ '**^- ^^^^lij present subsisWe, aid forti^^^^ ^?r ««°^« i^eans of deer skins, which had hp^n T ^ discovered several former residence here ThT ^^^"^ ^''^^ ^"^^^ t^^eir the heap of ashes; these a^Tl' "^"'^ ^?*^^'^S from «Jn>e rferocAe. they cons'i^^^^'''' and the addition of weU for a short time ^0^^"''^^°^ life tolerably the soup extracted froml^^f^^'*®-^^*® ^^^' and mouth if taken alone buf^SSP^ 7 excoriated the boUedwith the SnVSd^Pf^"'^'"^^* ^^^^ ^J^^a palatable with a little saJtnfSl,^?*^^ T^ ^^^^ 'deemed Winthespring Thevf J ''L^ ?? haA^been left flooring of the ^oims anH^^f'^/'^^^ bv.pulling up the the sniw. ' ^""^ ^**^^ ^or coolcing by melting ^itiTr^:^t:tl'Lff^ •*^^°^' J^«* - they were Lat'e onthefath BeltTir «^^ «^PPer of^^inged skin, a note from Mrfsick sS/lr fT^** 1^^ ^^'^^^^ ^ith trace of the :^i^r Th?^*.!* ^' ^^^ ^^^ found no speechless, bdn^ covered tjfl?^ messenger was almost death having falfenTtol rTptd ZtirAfiT? *^ smce the party left tho /.r.o<.+ ^ ' i *^' *^® t^^ird time After beiSg 4ll rubbed ],„''*"*T^^ t'."*^^^ drowning, and some warrsouSn hi^^ ^'' h' ^^^^^^ way t5ort SSV'aSVl?^^^ S^ ^^ *^- overtake them, as th^.Si . ^^ ^^^W be possible to • famlhes/ and h^re bt^f S^^^^ll^d slowly Vith ftieir deer about Reindeer Lafe.wSX^St "^ ™^^ found abundant FmnVlfn J^ • ®7 ^^^ ^een usually for that VOBt^ndsmt^Jl^'^'^^J^ *^^« the rout! that effe,rt on the 18th ^' ^'^ ^^^ ^^^ ^^^er to fiiirpiy^- Tu'! 48^ JPROGRESS OF iWRplTC DISCOVERY. HI ^ house with Adam, who wajs too ill to prooeedi They were BO feeble as searcely to be able to move. Augustus, the Esquimaux', tried for fish, without success, so that their only fare was skin and tea. At night, composing them* selves to rest, they lav close to each other for waormth, but found the night bitterly cold, and the wind pierced through their famished frames. , ^, . the safety of all behind depended on their obtaining- early assistance and immediate supplies, Franklin resolved to turn back, while the oi^eni^ pushed on to meet Mr. Back, * or, missing him, they were directed to proceed to Fort Pro- • vidence. Frq.nklin found the two Canadians he had left at the house dreadfully weak and reduced, and so low-spirited that he had {jreat difficulty in rallying them to any exertion. As the insides of their mouj^ had become sore fVom , eating the bone-soup, they now relinquished the use of it, ,flnd boiled the skin, which mode of dressing was fofind more palatable than frying it. They had pulled down .. nearly all their dwelling for fuel, to warm themselves and cook theil* scapty meals. The tripe de roche, on which they had depended, now became entirely frozen ; and what was mord tantalizing to their perishmg frames, tvas the sight of food within reach, which, they could not pro- cure. " We saw (says Fri|,nklin) a herd, of rein-deer, SDorting on the river, about half a mile from the house ; they remained there a long time, but none of the party felt themselves, strong enough to go after them, nor was there one of ihhwho could have* fired a gun without rcJst- ing it. . ' % Whilst they were seated pund the fire thfc evening, discoursing about the oAticipatod relief, the soi^nd of voices was heard, which was thought with joy to be that of the ^ Indians,. but, to th^ bitter disappointment, the debihtated , frasdes and emaciated countenances of Dr. jlichardson ahd - Hepburn presiuit^xl themselves at the door. They were" V^ of (^purse gladly received, although each mirked the ^ravagellKvhich famine, care, and fatigue had made on the - other. The Doctor particularly remarked the sepulcKral tone o^he voidea of his friends, which he reque8teaT,hem to maSlnnrore cWorfiffTrp^BiBre, tmoonspicmsTfiar hu ""^ own partook of the same key. Hepburn ll^^ing shot a partridge, which %a8 brougK|; t9 @ f ^ / / FBANKLlN*fi( FIRST EitND EXPEDITION 4S M"lBan3i' \ the hoase, Dr. Eiohardson tore out the feathers, «jul having hel4it to the fire a few minutes, divided it into sii portions. Franklin and his three companions ravenously devoured their shares, as it was the first morsel of flesh any ?[ ^^^^f^. tasted for thirty-one dajs, unless, indeei the smaU gristly particles which they found adhering to the poinded bones may be termed flesh. Their spirits were revived by th|s smaU supply, and the Doctor endea- voured to raise theth still higher by the prospect of Hep- burn's being abld to kiU a deer Uert day, as they had seen, and even fired at, several near the house. He enrfeavoured, too, to rouse them into some attention to th^omfort of their apartment. Having brought his Praver-book and " iestament, some^-prayers, psalms, and portions of scrip. ture, apjJropnate to their situation, swere read out by Dr. itichardson, and the^ retired to their blankets. Early next morning, the Doctor and IJepbum went out m search of game ; but though they saw several herds of deer, and fired some shots, thfey were not" so for- tunate as to kill any, being too weak to hold their .gu^ steadily. The cold compefed the former to returnCon, b;it Hepburn perseveringly persisted until late- in the evening. , ;• My occupation.(oontinue8 Franklin) was to search for . skms under the anow! it being now our object immediately . to get all that We could ; but I had not strength to drag in more than two of those which wore within twenty yards of the house, until the DgffetDr came and assisted me. We made up our. stock to» twenty-six; but several of them \rere'putnd, and Scarcely eatable, even by men sufferinir thV extremity of famine. Peltier arid Samandre continued very wo A. and dispirited, and they were unable to cut lirowood. Hepburn had, in consequence, that laborious Uak to perform after ho came back late from hunting." lo the exertions, honesty, kindnesi, and consideration of this worthy man, the safety of most of the party is to be Jittnbuted.' , And I may here mention that Sir John 1^ rankjin, when he became governor of Van Diemen's Land, obtained for Mm a good civil appointment. This deserv- ing man, I aA. informed by Mr. Barrow, is now in Eng- •l" .' ?^*r% ^°^* ^^^ <*^*°®' ^i«^' I beheve, has been abolished. It uT to be hoped something will be done for nim by the government. n ^S ' ^*'. ^^'T "^^"' ^" ^ * t ^ ' ' ^^"'"^^gd skin and bone BBTOT— J^r Ifichardson a«^quaintod Franklin with the events that bad transpired smo^ their phrting, particularly with the alflioting ciroumttanoes attending the death of Mr. Hood, '■(/■ u- 44 PBOORESS OP A?lCnO DISCOVERY. and Mictel, the Iroquois ; the particulars of whidb I shall now proceed to condense from his narrative. After Captain Pranklin had bidden them farewell, having' no trtpe de roche they drank an infusion of ihe coimtrv tea plant, which was grateful from its warmtC although it attorded no sustenance. They then retii'ed to bed, and Kept to their blankets all next day, as the snow drift was so heavy as to prevent their lightmg a fire with the green and frozen willows, which were then- only fuel. 1 /^T^^ *^e extreme kindness and forethought of a lady, the party,, previous to leaving London, had -been "^^^ f witJi a small collection of religious books, of ^hich (says Eichardson) we still retained two or three of the most portable, and they proved of incalculable benefit tdus. , " ^e read portions of them to each other as we lay in bed, in addition to the morning and evening service, and tound that they inspired us on each perusal with so strong a sense of the Ommpresenfco of a beneficent God, that our situation, even in these wilds, appeared no longer destitute; and we conversed not o^ily with calmness, but with cheer- f uhiess, detailmg withT unrestrained confidence the past events of our lives, ajid dwelling with hope on our future prospects." How beautiful a picture have we here repre- sented, of true pietjy- and resignation to' the Divine Will inducing patience Aiiid submission under an unexampled load of misery ana privation. Michel the Irocfuois joined them on the 9th Oct., having, there 18 strong Reason to believe, murdered two of the Cafiadiaus who ^ere with him, Jean Baptiste Belanger and Perrault, as theAr were never seen afterwards, and he gave 80 mamr rambKng and contradictory statements of his proceedings, that no credit could be attached to his story. The travelle: s proceeded on their tedious journey by Blow stages. 1 Ir. Hood was much affected with dimness of sight, giddiniss, and other symptoms of extreme debi- lity, which caused them to move slowly and to make fre- quent halts. IdMchel absented himself all day of the 10th, and only arrived\at their encampment near the pines late on the llth. \ He reported tliat he had been in chase of some deer which passed neai\^hi8 sleeping place in the morning, and although he did nok come up with them, yet that he found a wolf which had been killed by the stroke of a deer's horn, omt hod brouAtai part- ofit ds— VWe Pffr '^j^ .^ Richardson ad _ then, but afterwards implicitly believed this jtorjr tjscame aware — from cirounutances. franklin's first land expedition. 45 the details of which may be spared-that it must havfi been a portion of the bodv of fielanger or PeSf A qnestzon of moment here presents iteeff-namerwhethei: he^ actually murdered these men, or eithe/TtS^^' whether he found the bodies iii thA sn^^ *?f ™i ?'^ Pranklin, who is the bestTble S iSge ^ Tiis m^S^ from knowing their situation when ie parted from them suggested, the former idea, and that both these^Sen S been sacrificed; that Michel, having already«a™t?ov^3 Belanger, completed his crime by PerraS^eaTh^ln order to screen himself from detectfonT ^^^*^' "* Although this oniiilbn is founded only on circumstanPP« and IS unsupported by^ect evidence; it haTb^iXd rtre^xiTsW^.^Vr^^^^ ^ *^^ iuleqVertXtu'ct a deed^tt w ^''*r^''^ ^"^'^^^^ of committing such a deed. It is not easy to assign any other adeauate mn tive for his concealing from Ekhardsof thit PeS had WaI^^^! t^^^^'^equest, over-nightXuWwo^d Ir: hrttt'Su^'ir' ^^ ^^^^be'nnghMse^a"'^ ^hatfetr^^^^^^^ of cutti:- rZi*? «o^s''offer^f^5'°' "'^^^ ?^ ^^y^ '«^"«i°^ I>r. Richard. He wo57n^fT'''"P*?^ ^""' ^^ remained out all day On tTe llr tW?>^- *^" ^°* ^*\*^« °*l^«r t^o alight Tsh^rt'tSie' * *^ 'r' ^^* -^^^^ektZT^^^^^ manner, and threatened to leave theiS WkI ^ Z with hv M^. TT^A u" ^ ^oave lae^fi When reasoned beC kTa'ndTa^ hC^^'^ ^"^ "^'^^«' -d the/had as muoK^i; ^r^*"!'," ''^''^^^« ^'- R'^hardson, •' we avoided "r^tttion^!?l'^''7,"^^«."P«'^ *^« hipeWassof uur situation, and generally endeavoiu-ed^o JmH fli- ««« versatipn towards our future prospecrfnTfe ^e fLS' a^d wTwe^^^iT^ «^ T, ^^^^' oun mindrdec^y^ed; ^ If ir M sms 46 PBOORESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVEH^. >\ H On the morning of the 20th, they again urged Michel to .go a-hunting; that he might, if possible, leave them some provision, as he intended quitting them next day, but he showed great unwillingness to go otit, and lingered about the fire imder th^ pretence or cleaning his gun. Jlfter the morning service nad been read, Dr. S,ieharason -went out to gather some tripe de roche, leaving Mr. Hood sitting before the tent at the fireside, arguing with Michel; Hepburn was employed cutting fire-wood. WhUe they wer6 thus engaged, the treacherous Iroquois took the opportunity to place his gun clos^^ to Mr. Hood, and shoot him through the head. He represented to his companions ' that the deceased had killed lumself. On examination of the body, it was foun'd" that the shot had entered the back part of the h^ad and passed out at the forehead, and that thtfe muzzle of the gim had been applied so close s& to set fire to the nightcap behind. Micn6l protested his inno- cence of the crime, and Hepburn and Dr. Richardbon dared not openly to evincp their suspicion of his guilt. Next .day. De. Richardson determined on going straight tothe Fort. They singed the hair ofi" a part of the buffalo roqe that belonged to their ill-fated companion, and boiled and ate it. In the course of their march, Michel alarmed them much by this gestures and- conduct, was constantly •muttering to nimself, expressed an unwillingness t'o^go to the Fort, and tried to persuade them, to go south- , Sd to the woods, where ne said he could maintain , self all^the winter by killing deer. " In consequence of behaviour, and the expression of his co^tenance, I requested him (says Richardson) to leave us^ aSStO^go to tlie southward by himself TJjiis proposal increasecj^is ill- nature ; he threw out some-obscure hints of freeing him- self from all restraint on the morrOw ; and I overheard him muttering tlireats against Hepburn, whom he openly accused of having told stories against him. Ho also, for the fiast time, assuifted such a tone of superiority in addressing me, as evinced that" he considered us to bo completely in his power ; and he gave vent to several, ex- pressions of hatred towards the white people, some of whom, he said, had killed and eaten his uncle and two oi his relations. In short, taking every circumstance of his conduct into consideration, I camO to the conclusion that he Would attempt to destroy us on the first opportunity that offered, and that he had hitherto abstained from doing ■e from hw Tgiroffttt^ of hi»=iiii]|K[, and gach began to ^utnd and |H|n meat and sfin tha atriout w&tWt to prepare thfem." illill worse were as >Wfiver» scraps oP aoout, Lowever, r"; ol*'1 Jir's FIRST LAND EXPm)ITION. 49 a deer afterwards made, and the neck and bones of found m the house were Med and devoured. After resting a day at the house, Mr. Back vnsUd n« wi h his companions in search of the liS ^leavW a note for Captain Franklin, informing him He Sd ,n meeting with the Indians, he intende^d to push on for th« , first tradmge8tablishment-4istant about 1^0 m^^Ia^d ^end us succour from thence. On the 11th he^^ out nn serVeTa.'^ '^" ^^' ^'^« ^^^^^ ^^^ first' coUected 'tS On the 13tk and 14th of October they had nothing wT,«f oTftrilk ^f^^^^^^f ««^toewitha not^toS^^ On the 15th they were fortunate enough to f^l hi wi^r^ ■partridge, the bones of which were eaten and tX«^n- der reserved for bait to fish wilh Enou^wl f ™"?" t ^r^ z'£h^- «rl5?>ti on searching, several heads of deer LuZ^^f' S for^whtcrfetv''Bn.n* ^"'^ *° ^"°^ "P Beauparlant. the Poo?LT/^^^^^^^^^^^ -^ --us. but h? found could%:ftsfeef ^^Lm thf' ^^' clear,, but they we suffered (Xe^rves S tho Sf^ °^ ^'^^^^^ ^^*^°' monts. though I rLftfcX did w ^^«^"«^^t»°S tor- what Mould have satSdr^o •? °Vfu ^ ?^^^*^^ «f reduced partv. Back botb t^ J» f I Jranklm and his S^^^;^ZyV^' their atrdl\" ; . weakness, Ww^nrtt»7vrrhrtZt",*°Hr'' ^"^ liio reinnuitsTaTre Jeer t II il^J.^j J?X;'^°°*i> r""' i» the men from oMmg em? ecrap thcjfo JfCngh IS? ■ X^mwfiirdr- mate. 44 Petty Qfficers, Seamen, &c. Total complement, $8. ^■ PABBY's FIB8T VOYAaE. 51 Griper, 180 tons: Assistant-Surgeon-C. f. Beverley. rll /PT""^^- ^'^' ^- ^- Skene, W. N Griffiths Greenland^PJote^George Fyfe, iaster , Kwer, 28 Petty Officers, Seamen, &c. Total complement, 36. skirt, of theg^JeAlZf^o^^fonT&IIV^ *X?^ the Sow V^*^- P""^^^^"' y^^^ still distinctly vSe^ he nt'erior aT^a'^r.r"'^'"" 'f *^^ ^^ ^^^ ^^^^^ hv^SnlTwevesfen ^Iir^l"^ rmg-plovers aAa snow- inferrea hit honey is totf -o''' 5*°"^ ""^^^ '^ °^^^ ^^ regions VeoetSn fl. 9^ procured even in these Vild ' . sid^ring the hTgh Sh^^^^^^ ^^^ »^«'«' «o°- tufts ^d vSuriro^n/ 1 f^^^ abundance. ^''''''^ P^^*« ^«^ ^^ considerable the'^S^^X^^ad'^r; -*V^l^^^^' *^^y -^riiied many V ?he officL thaHr^T^^z. ^""^ ^^tertained by , existence, foir on tS Jft If /^"'^T ^^«»'^«*''^ liad n^^ii^^ long. 86^56' WfWT^ ^^ ^""^^^ *^« »^ip« ^ere TH^ lani had Ln ifel'^'^'-R*^ *^' ^"«*^«^d of whe^ The sC w^ n^eHteVsw Jf *fe' ^'^^^^ y^"'' " . Cmi^K L Iw ^Mution of the iSe, S^ ' cours^OT^,^th™d 'S^^ \' i?""' ^y shaping^ now named 4riXfL^Alo^n^S:6^^^^^^ . t ir vmsm JWMtHPIlM^I 52 PROGRESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVERY. % :m consequence of the local attraction, the ordinary com- passes became useless from their great variation, and the binnacles were rem store-room alone remai motions, thai and freque ^IJS^ 'om the deck to the carpenter's !r, the as^uth compasses ^_ jecame So sluggish in their ed {o be very nicely levelled, , ^^ before the card traversed. The local attrao^n was very greaL and a mass of iron-stone found g(Q shore attracted the magnet powerfully. The ships prQceeded 120 miles from th e entra nce. On the 8th pf August, i|dbMi|A^' ^,, .md long. ^0° ^9' W., (his extreme pomT^view Parry'^liamed Cape Kater), the JETecla came to a compact barrier of ice extend- ingji^oss the inlet, which rendered one pf two alternatives nw^ssary, either to remain here until ah opening tocdc ^Wm or to return again to the northward. The latter ^OWm was determined on. , Making, therefore, for the fj^hem shore of Barrow's Strait, on the 20th a narrow •ijaannel was* discovered between the ice and the land. On the 28nd, proceeding due west, after passing seveiil bays and , headlandSi^tliej noticed two large openings -w passages,, the first or which, more than e^ht leagues in width, he named Wiellington Channel. T^ various c%jps, inlets, ^d Soups of islands passed, Parry assignpdthe namei^W otham. Barlow, Cornwallis, Boweif; Byam Martin, ^^riflSth, li^her, Bathurst, &c. Op/the 28th a boat was lent on shdt^il; Byam Martin lal^d with Capt. Sabine, ' Mr. J. C Eoss, and the surgeons, to make observations, and collect specimens of natural history. The vegetation^ was rather luxuriant for tH^fe regions; moss in particular^ pew in abundance in fKe ihoist vaUe;;^ and along the banks of the 8ljeama».that ffowpd from /the hills. The imH^ huts^ Were observed. Tracks of ruins of six ] rein-deer, bears'^nd £usk oxen were noticed, and the skeletons, skulls, and horns of some of these animals were On the 1st of iSf^Snber, they^c6vQj«e enough, some small pie^a of ^lerably good coal were found in various places sSered ^•Im ^ .^ several grouse on the island and a ±^V ^^^^;««^«fi«K^ice. several sniHukt^^ a snowy owl, and four musk o?en were seen. - Ducks iS small flocks, were seen alonff the shore, as w;U as sevVd glaucoAis guUs and tern ; aula solitary seal^as d)8emd As ^ le ships were coasting along on the 7th. twSrds of musk oxen were seen grazing. It the distance oSK three-quarters of a mile from the beach: one hdftS sisted of nine and the other of five of these cattle?i«v had also a distant view of two rein-deer ^ ^ .1 ^T/^^x.^f ^^* °^ ^^^ l^ares here is about eight pounda^ Mr. Fisher the surgeon, from whose in tereSw isW xi.?Z*'f ''^'^\ ^V^ ^' ^'^y eviden TaftSf islaiid i^t be frequented, if not constantly inhabited by are found scattered about in aU directions. a^TthrSeaS She sMs ofTT °^"-"' ™ discovered oToneo?^t; Ihe skulls of two carnivorous animals, a wolf and a Ijm, -^■'" i. 5i PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERT. were also picked up here. A party sent to gather coala brought on board about half a bushel — all they could obtain. On the morning of the 10th, Mr. George Fyfe, the master {rilot, with a party of six men belonging to the Chriper, anded with a view of making an exploring trip of some fifteen or twenty miles into the interior. Tney only took provisions for a day with them. Grreat uneasiness was felt that they diH not return ; and when two days elapsed, fears began to be entertained for their safety, and it was thought they must have lost their way. /TMiessrs. Keid (midshipman), Beverley (assistant-sur- geon), and Wakeham (clerk), volunteered to go in search of their missing messmates, but themselves lost their jray ; guided by the rockets, fires, and lights exhibited, they returned by ten at night, almost exhausted with cold and fatigue, but without intelligence of their friends. Four relief parties were therefore organized, and sent out on the morning of the 13th to prosecute the search, and one of them ilell in with and brought back four of the Ivan- derers, and another the remaining three before nightfall. The feet of most of them were much frost-bitten, and they were all wearied and worn out with their wanderings. It appears they had lost their way the evening of the day they went out. With regard to food, they were by no means badly ofi", for they managed to kill a^ many grouse as they could eat. "^-^ They found fertile valleys and level plainfe in the intferipr, abounding with grass and moss ; also a lake of fresh water, about two miles long by one broad, in which were several species of trout. They saw several herds of rein-deer on the plains, and two elk; also many hares, but no musk oxen. Some of those, however, who had been in search of the stray party, noticed herds of these cattle. The winter now began to set in, and the packed ice was so thick, that fears were entertained of being locked up in an exposed position on the coast ; it was, therefore, thought most prudent to put back, and endeavour to reu.?h the harbour which had. been passed some days before. The vessels now got seriously buffeted among the floes and hummocks of ice. The Griper was forced aground on the beach, and for some time was in a very critical position. Lieutenant Liddon having been c nnfinftd to hia na bin by a rheumatic complaint, was pressed at this juncture by Commander Parry to allow himself to be removed to the Secta, but he nobly refused, stating that he should be the ■■'J^-i parby'8 fibst voyage. 55 last to leave the ship, and continued giving orders. The beach being sand, the Griper was got off without injxiry. On the 23rd of September they anchored off the mouth ot the harbour, anil the thermometer now fell to 1°. The OTew were set to work to cut a channel through the ice to the shore, and m the course of three days, a canal, two and a half miles in length, was completed, through which the vessel Avas tracked. The ice was eight or nine inches thick. An extra allowance of preserved meat was served out to the men, m consideration of their hard labour. The vessels were unrigged, and everything made snug and secure for passing the winter. Captain Parry gave the name of the ^orth (reorgian Islands to this group, after his Majesty, ^King George III., but this has smce been changed to the ir&TTj Islands. Two reindeer were kiUed on the Ist of October, and several white bears were seen. On the 6th a deer was killed, which weighed 170 pounds. Seven were seen on the 10th, one of which was killed, and mother severely wounded. Following after this animal, night overtook several of the sportsmen, and the usual signds of rockets, lights, &c. were exhibited, to guide them back. One, John Pearson, a marine, had his liands so frost-bitten that he was obliged, on the 2nd of November, to have the four hngers of his left hand amputated. A wolf and four rein- deer were seen on the 14th. A herd of fifteen deer were seen on the 15th ; but those who saw them could not bring down any, as their fowhng-pieces missed fire, from the moisture freezmg on the locks. On the 17th and 18th herds of eleven and' twenty respectively, were seen, and a small one was shot. A fox was caught on the 29th, which 18 described as equaUy cunning with his brethren of the temperate regions. | ' To make the long winter pass as cheerfully ac possible, plays were acted, a school estabUshed, tend a newspaper set on loot, certainly the first periodical publication that bad ever issued fromi the Arctic regions. The title of this journal, the editorial duties of whicfr were undertaken by Captain Sabme, Was ''^e Winter Chronicle, or New Georgia Gazette." S^pst number appeared on the 1st ot JNovember. !t--~^ > .. S^ the evening ofWSth of November the farce of Miss ^nh er Teens'-' was brought o ut, to th e great— amusemeut^BrtKe sEpT companie^,"and, considering'the local difliculties and disadvantages under which the per- tormers laboured, their first essay, according to the officers' If' 56 PROGRESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVERY. report, did them infinite credit. Two hours were ^ent .very happily in their therftre on the quarter-deck, notwShL standing ^he thermometer outside the ship stood at zerdp and witliin a^ low as the freezing point, except close to thestoves, where it waa a little higher. Another play waa performed on the 24th, and so "on every for:tnight. The men were employed during the day "in bankingup ,the ships with snow. v ^ o r _On' the 23rd of December, the oiBcers performed " The M&j^j^Ma^tt," which waa followed by an afterpiece wi^ittgn by Cajtain Parry, entitled the "North-West JPas-* sage; or the Voyage Finished." The sun having long Bii^e departed, th* twilight at noon was so clew- that f , bofeks in the smallest print could be distinctly read. On the eth of January, the farce. of "Bon To»''Tva8 performed, with the thermometer at 27° below ^ero. The cold became more and more intense. Onihe*12th it was 51 below zero, m the open air ; brandy froze to the consistency of honey ; when tasted in this state it left ^ a smarting on the tongue. The greatest cold experienced was on the 14th January, when the thermometer feU tb 1., T ^®'*°- ^^ ^^® ^^^ °^ Fel^ruaxy, the sun was first Visible above the horizon, after eighty-four days' absencoi It .was seen from the maintop of the shlbs, a height of about fifty-dne feet above the sea. » On the forenoon of the 24th a fire 'broke but at the storehouse, which waa used as an observatory. All • hands proceeded to the spot to endeavour to subdue the Jaijes, -but having only ^now to thr6w on it, und'the mats With which the interior was lined being very dry, it was l(^und impossible to extinguish it. tlliid- snow, however, covered the astronomical' instruments^nd secured them from thj fire, and when the ;rpof iMbeen pulled down the firb had burned itself out. Conliprable as the iiro was. Its influence or' heat extended but a very short ' distance, for several of the officers and men wore frost-bitten, and confined from their efforts for severnl* weeks. John Smith, of the Artillery, who was Captain''' Sabine 8 servant, and who, together with flergeunt Martin,, happened to be in the house at the time the firo broke out, Bulfered much more severely. In their anxiety \ to^savq .the dipping needle, which was standing close to m stove, and of whiph they knew the value, they teimo. _"'atejj ra n n j tt wjU it j^aad Smith not Jmviiu> ti«m i.^ mti^ . m . — ^.^ .. ^ -^^At^aod. Hmith not having tim« tomiV- on his gloves, had his ffngers in half an hourKkbenumbcd, and the animation bo completely suspended, .tnat. on his being taken on board % Mr. Edwards, and' hiay^g his r V '^^F ^^■■■HiiMttHAiMMB Si parry's first VOYAafi. ■n 57 hands plunged into a basin of cold water, the snrface of ttSsTXr ^°»^di^<% frozen by the it^e^olt thrmoft hi^.T'^T'"*"^ ^ ?*'• andnotr^ithstanS tne most humane and unremitting attention naid S by the^edical gentlemen, it^was Lnd n^cesw eoZ time after, to resort to the ^amputaiion of a pSVfnZ .fingers on one hand, and three on the other ^ " nfT^ffJ*"^*^*' "*^®*PP«*''ance which our faces'presented at the fire was a curious one ; almost every mse H cW JSI?fc' ^S«°^« q*i}« ^l^ite with frost bite^ rivfrninutea necessary tor the mgdical gentlemen, together with aonSL wWWlT^P^'''*"^ *^ ^r* >^^™' to go consLSly ro^^ whUe the men were working at the fire and tnr^,h^\r "The taTht Sof*^''-? '*^ '^ -iorTanLSi.^*^ the 17th of December tL^k!! ^^^^ firs* time smce was now reljuUt observatory Jiouse on shore. The vapour, which had been in a sohd statfl on ♦!,« - mfiKht &Z tteVh.f.eS '^ ™ *•" »' ^ 'P'^ons, except meal and sugar. ■ ""^' "O"" oj roui^^^r''^ ".r ''*'*^ *^ V^^J' ''^ Pitting away the ice exeunt' h^^rT ^"^ men ffThad been out on • ThoSionTwfl '"/'''* '"."^^ W-inow blindness. -^ iatlehXn tej^^^^^^^^^ i» d^qphe/is like ^ vnen aust or ^ana^ets mto the oyd^: They * '... . ^ >.',■ "' *-*-t" ■ > ' 1^- \ ""- "--i. 1 1 m.-^ 1 Wm M PEOa|tESa OP AROTIO DISCOVERY. were, however, cured in the course of two or three days jby keeping the eves covered, and bathinff them occasion- ally with sugar of lead, or some other cooling lotion. To prevent the "recurrence of the complaint, the men were ordered to wear a piece of crape or some substitute for it over the eyes. The channel round the ships was completed by the 17th of Mfy, and they rose nearly two, feet, having been kept down oy the pressure of the ice round them, although lightened" during .the winter, by the consumption of food , and fuel. On the 24th they were astonished by two showers of rain^ a most extraordinary phenomenon in these regions. Symptoms of scurvy again appeared among the crew ; oii^e of the seamen who had been recentjy cured, having imprudently been !n the habit of eating the fat skimmings, or "slush," in which salt meat had been boiled, and which was served out for their lamps. As the hills in many places now became exposed and vegetation commenced, two or three pieces of ground were dug u^ and soWh with seeds of radishes, onions, an4 other vegetables. Captain Parry determii^ed before leaving to makfe an excursion across the island for the purpose of examining its size, boundaries, productions, &c. Accordingly on the 1st of June an expedition was organized, consisting., of the commander, Captain Sabine, Mr. Fisher, the assistant-surgeon, Mr. John Nlas, mid- shipman of the Hecla, and Mr. Eeid, midshipman of the Griper, witl)i two sergeants, and five seamen and marines. Three, wtseks' ph)visions were taken, which together with two tents, wood for fuel, and other articles, weighing in all about 800 lbs., was drawn on a cart prepared for the purpose by tl^e men. Each of the officers carried a knapsack with his own private baggage, weighing from 18 to 24 lbs., also his gun and ammunition. The partv started in hi^h glee, under three hearty cheers from their comrades,. sixteen of whflTO ao<'orapanied them for five miles, carrying their knapsacks and drawing the cart for them. Tney travelled by night, taking rest bv'!&ay, as it was found^ be warmer for sleep, and they had only a covering of a single blanket each, besides th« clothes they had on. On the 2nd they came to a small lake, about hliif .41 mile long, and met with eider ducks and ptarmiji:an.: seven ttcT- were whot , From fhr top M aiai^ of hills -^ at which thoy now arrived, they coukl hco the musts of the ships in Winter Harbour with the nnkfd eye|,at about m^mmaa^^m PARRY S FIRST VOYAGE. 59 - ten or efleven miles distant. A vast plain was also seen extending to the northward and westward. ' The party breakfasted on biscuit and a pint of gruel each, made of salep powder, which was foundto be a veiy palatable diet. Eemdeer with their fawns were met with. They derived great assistance in dragging their cart by rigging upon it one of the tent blankets as a sail, a truly nautical co'ntrivance, and the wind favouring them, they made great progress in this way. Captain Sabine being taken ill with a bowel complaint, had to be conveyed on this novel sail carriage. They, however, had some ugly ravinefiM;o pass, the crossings of which were very tedious and-froublesome. On the 7th the party came to a large bay, which was named after their ship's, Hecla and Griper Bay. The bhie ice was cut through by hard work with boarding pikes, the only instruments they had, and afterdiggingfourteen and a half feet the water rushed up ; it WM not very salt, but suflicient to satisfy them that" it was the ocean. An island seen in the distance was named after Captain Sabine ; some of the various points and capes were also named after Others of the party. Although this shore was found blocked no with such heavy ice, there . appear to be times when there is open water here, for a piece of fir wood seven and a half feet long, ancUabout the thickness of a man's arm, was foond about eighty .yards inland from the hummocks of tkfe beach, and about tliirty feet above the_ level of the sea. Before leaving the shore, a monument of stones twelve feet high wm erected, in which were deposited, in a'^*in cylinder, an account of their proceedings, a few coins, a»d several naval buttons. The expedition now turned back, shaping Its course in a more • westerly directft^ towards some high blue hfUfl, which had long been inji^lght. «,0n many days several ptarmigans were shot. The horns and tracks of deer were very numerous . ' ^ On the lltbthoy came insight of ade0p gulf, io which Lieutenant Liddon's name was given; the two. capes at Its entrance being called nfter Beechey and Hoppner. I^ the centre was an island about three-quart«-s of a mi^e ii length, rising abruptly to the height of 700 fe shores of the gulf were very rugged and precipl I" descending a steep hill, the a: i(li (mhi iiI |^»^i|(|| broke, and they had to leave it behind, takinr'^^odr n wrth thm. however, for fuel. The wheell, which were im on tiie.ipot, may astonish some future adventui^ w ii i,w..»il» -' '. . ^. 60 PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERT. r'^: I who discovers them. The stores, &c., were divided amonp' the oflBcers and men. Making their way on the ice in the gulf, the island in the centre was explored, and named after Mr. Hooper, the purser of the Secla. It was found to be of sandstone, and very barren, rising perpendicularly from the sea on the west side. Four fat geese were killed here, and a great many animals were seen arounA the gulf; some attention being paid to examining its shores, &c., a fine open valley was discovered, and the tracks of oxen and deer were very numerous ; the ^sturage appeared to^e exo cellent. • ^ , On the I3th, a^ew ptarmigaujand a golden plover were killed.* No less than thirteen deer in one herd vere seen, and a musk ox for the first timeUhis season. ' > The remains of six Esquimaux huts were discovered about 300 yards from the beach, ^ Vegetation now began to flourish', the sorrel was found far advanced, and a species of saxifrage was met with in blossom. They reached the shipft on the evening of the 15th, after a journej^opabout 180 mil6s. The ships' crews, during their absence, had been occu- pied in getting ballast in and re-stowing the hold. - Shooting parties were now sent out in various directions to procure game. Dr. Fisher gives an interesting account of nis teh days' "exouVsion with a couple of men. The deer were not so, numerous as they expected to find them. About thirty ,were " seen, of which his party killed but two, wfiich were very leaij, weighing only, when skiJined and cleaned, 50 to 60 lbs. A oonpte of wolves were seen, and some foxes, with a gceat many hares, four of which were killed, weighing from 7 to 8 lbs. The aqtiatio birds seen were — b^nt geose, king duckd, long-tailed duckst and arotic and glaucous gulls." The land birds were ptarmigans, . plovers, 8anderlingB,,,^d snow buntings. The geese were pretty numerous for the first few days, but got wild and wary on bcmg disturbed, keeping in the middle of lakes out of gun-shot. About a dozen were, however, killed, and fif* teen ptarmigans. These birds are represented to be bo stupid that all sefm may 1>p shot. Dr. Fisher waa surprised on his return oh the 2i^th of June, after his ten days' absence, to find how much vegetation had advanced : the land being now completely clear of snow, was covered with thn purpfp fffilnrirod ■nafiffAgr ir. bloooom, trith Jiiunmw, and with sorrel, and the grass was two to thr*e ineiies loujf. 1%0 «em were •eiit out twice a week to ooUect thm iopret* ittd m a few m^utes enough eould be proewed to mxk« ft ■#s, T^i s KjMm *- - sen occu- • I- . . . ■ • * » . . P^^RRY'b EIRST TOYAOE. ' gj V salad for dinner. After beW -mixed with vi-t.«„« •* regularly served out to the 1^ 1^« ^r^-?"^ '* T*" see^ that had been sown got pn Imt slowt T^ /f^'? yield any produce in tiiiie to be^ed ^' ^""^ -'^ -'^^*^ over hfs grave ""'^^^^ ^y Ur. f^isher. bemg erected ?!]t :?^^® ^^® °^ ^^°^es was erected on the 14th nf of a precipitous iAiulated roclT ^^"^^ °^ *^^ *«? ing'^a^^tte^ar^l^l^^^^^^^^^ occasionally ^j the cdllision ot Eeavy ice «fe' ^^"'" (says Dr. J'ishV) that happened to lm« in ^^J.^'.^'f^' to us nrcaspfl sn f«T.oiki,r '^^S- *^" ^^ <^onie in Contact close them, Sour toT-twoT?'l.T another thlft ote of , nothing „Lneon,pa^dSttpr««.i^^\r™^^^ • existed to Produce fhfi effaM^ «» pressure that must have . for.notoaneaDsorySrl i^f '''^^^ .t«ndinK such orer^holZp ?i' e " * ^ "^"^"^ "'*• ^700 lb, v."""'' "-T '■'?»■ ■"■''i''h wefelied more than n.u.k « h.d been Jire.tnted'' ''°* "^'' ■""T strong of hf^f''>fe„'rfr°,!:"lf'°T.pr°'??f^'«-nr still • J " tV iStli wid Wth^they were off the fouth.weil m m PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY. point of the island, but a survey of the locality from the precipitous cliff of Cape Dundds, presented the same mterminable bamer of ice as far as the eye could reach. A bold high coast was sighted to the south-trest, to which the mme of Bank's Land was given. Captain Parry states that on tke 23rd the ships received by far the heaviest shocks thev had experiencedduring the voyage, and performed six miles of the most difficult navi^ gation he had ever known among ice. Two musk bulls were shot on the 24th by parties who landed, out of a herd of seven which were seen. ' They were lightCT than the first one shot— weighing duly about 360 lbs. From the number of skulls and skeletons of these animals met with, and their capabilities b^ienduring the ngour of the climate, it .seems probable that they do not imgrate southward, but winter on this island. Attempts were still made to work to the east\i#d, but on the 25tli, from want of wind, and the closeaesi'of the ice, the ships were obliged to make fast again, without having gamed above a mile after several Jiours labour. A fresh breeue springing up on the 26th opened a passage along shore, and the ships made sail to the eastward, aud in the evening were off their old quarters in Winter Har- bour. On the foUowing evening, after a fine run, they were off the east end of Melville Island. Lieut. Parry this day, announced to the officers and crew that after due consideration and consultation, it had been found useless to prosecute their researches farther westward, and there- fore endeavours would be made in a more southerly direc- tion, failing in which, the expedition would return to i^iUgland. Kegent Inlet and the southern shores generaUy were found so blocked up with ice. that the return to JH.ngla.nd was on the 30th of August publicly announced. This day, Navy Board and Admiralty Inlets were rZssed and on the Ist of Sei)teml)er the vessels got clear drBar- row Strmt, and reached Baffin's Bav on the 5th./ They fell in with a whaler belonging to Hull, from whJm they learnt the news of the death of George the Thir/and the JJuke of ICent, and that eleven vessels having been lost m the ice last year, fears were entertained for lieir safety. The Fnendshp. another Hull whaler, informed them that ^ 6ompany with the Ihielove she had looked intb Smith's Sound that summer. The Alexander, of Abei5le6n. one ot the ships employed on the former voyage of discovery to these seas, had aluo pn^^rpd T,Bn>.-^~. f ^(\tmd. Aftor ^;j —■ — ■ ..... ■ ■ — -, — - ;j — — -» _ _ Toipung at riyde'8 Riven where they met a^d-natured tnbe of E«quunaux, the ihipi made the b«i^ of /their way ' parby's seconiI voyage. g3 across the Atlantic and after isomewhat boisterous Das ^ Jo.?T°'°'^r ^^""y ^^M^t Peterhead onXsoTh" Pa^: Parby's Second "Voyage, 1821—1823. The exRerience which (ipt. Parry had formed in hi« previous vcjyage, ed himX entertain the opS tha^^^ commumcaMon might be/found between Cent I^e? and Boe s Welcome, or thr/ugh EepulseBay, and thence to he north-^testern shores/ tL following a/e h?s remarks On an inspection of the/charts I think it wiU alsHpnear probable that a communication will one day be IbS'to exist between this inft (Prince Eegent^s) and Hud^ ^Li-,^V^^^%}^SP' ^^i^^ rflmericl "''a "'tT'^"''-'' 'r'l ^^ tl-" northern Zs? ot America. Agaiirfm another place, he savs "OffI,. eastence of a Nortl3West Passage to the Pacffic it is now aSdJ/"'"'"^ 'r™"' ""If""" the sncces'sXh attended our cffoi^ ,n 1819, after passine throuffh Sh^ Jam^ Lancaster's/Sonnd, we were Lt nfrcaSlc ta m wnich it is practicable to navigate the Polar Spqa ^hpo not exceed sevi weeks. From aU that we obse^ed it seems desirablfthat ships endeavouring to rS the coast of?"'' 7 '^'T''^' «^^'^Jd ^^^V if possible on he coast of Amerjba, and the lower in latitude that Pn««f may be found/the more favourable wiS it prove L the wor^^ni'^^- f 'P^^^ T ^^y ^Pr^^ to be the points most Z ex^neif fnn °- V?°^* *^"""^«^« b^t con^'ier that St t^o PmX'^l"Pr^. ^y ^"^^* ^"*^^^ ^ith this view Sefrl?^^ ^'J' ^^'* "^^^1^« i« attempting to pene- Jw/ T ^^ '^^^^''^ ^^°*<^ orAmerica along its northern eitendpd Jf'^ -^ our attemptMhe whalers have ah-eady fornnfJlV'' ^'^V,' ^^ » ^ ^eld has been opened Wd wL? ,-,^' mos lucrative branches of our comI^rc!^ Suabfe nuU'lT^ ^^ ^"^ importance, one of the most .^^H 'L^ lT/^Ly^" which. Grea t Britain p os- Parry's Mr^l^ -vrdprT • "^'l^- ^'' ^^™«' ^«*1 »°d enterprise, and in -vrdertogive him an opportunity of testing the truS of 61 PROGRESS OP ARCTIC DlSCOtERY. ^ ■!iiii|yiiriiii his observations, a few months after he returned home, the Admiralty p;ave Parry the command of another expe- dition, with instructions to proceed to Hudson's Strait, and penetrate 4o the westward until in Repulse Bay, or on some other part of the shores of Hudson's Bay to the north of Wager Eiver, he should reach the western coast of the continent. Failing in these quarters, h^ was to keep along the coast, carefully examiniaw every bend or inlet, which should appear likely to aflford a practicable passage to the westward. The vessels commissioned, with their officers and crews, were the following. Several of the officers of the former expedition were promoted, those who had been on the last voyage with Parry I have marked w^th an asterisk : — Fury. Commander — *W. E. Parry. Chaplain and Astronomer — Eev. Geo. Fisher (was in the Dorothea, under Capt. Buchan, in 1818.) Lieutenants— *j, Wiss and *A. Eeid. Surgeon— * J.- Edwards. Purser — *W. H. Hooper, Assistant-Surgeon — J. Skeoch. Midshipmen— *J, C. Eoss, *J. Bushnan, J. Henderson, F: E. M. Crozier. Greenland Pilots — *J. Allison, master ; *G. Crawfurd, mate. 47 Petty Officers. Seamen, &c. Total complement, 60. Secla. Commander — G. F. Lvon. Lieutenants — *H. P. Hoppner and *C. Palmer. Surgeon — *A. Fisher. Purser — J. Germain. Assistant-Surgeon— -A.' M'Laren. . Midshipmen— *W. N. Griffiths, J. Sherer, C. Eichardj", E. J. Bird. Greenland Pilots— *G. Fife, master ; •A. Elder, mat<5, 46 Petty Officers, Seamen, &c. Total complement, 58. Lieutenant Lyon, the second in command, had obtained iX)me reputation from his travels in tVipoIi, Mourzouk, and other parts of Northern Africa, and waw taisfni to thn rank of CommanH^r on hia appointment to the Meeia, and «■ 4'. parry's SEC9ND VOYAGE. "65 retried.^'' promotion as Captain, when the expedition 7VW7 '^JP' ^^'Jfft'pmpanied as far as the ice by the Nauttlns traiispo^^eighted with provisions ^d stores 7^LT" ^" ^^'^VVo^ as soSn as roomVas foTd 8 Jnf uT\i^\ T^^ h"^. *^^ ™« ^ore early on the 8th of May, 1821, but nieeting with strong gales off the Greenland coast, and a boisterous passage,^id not fall in with the ice until the middle of June. ' Un fte 17th of June, in a heavy gale from the south ward, the sea stove and carried away oneTthe quarter boats of the mcla. On the following day in ^60° 53 N., long 61° 39' W., they made the pack or main sJr.,> ^^'°^''*'^J^ ^'^^^^' ^^ *^« entrance of Hudson Si?.-\S'/^^'' ^''*^* sixty-four mUes. Capt. Lyon ^tes, th^ during one of the watches, a large fraffmeS wafe observed to fall from an iceberg near the S ™ Frl '.r' *^°l^/,^«i«e liJ^e the report of a great gun. Frc^m this period to the 1st of July, the fhins pSo^r^Tw '^ t''\^ *^^ ^""^^"^^ «f heJ'stores p/e. C o? rlri^. f? ^°'\'' «««asionally made fast to a Derg, or dnve^vput to sea by gales. On the 2nd aftpr -ntroauced-to the company of some unusuaDy larffe ice- bergs. The altitude of one was 268 fefcbX thrfurfap: of Ee sea ; its total height, therefore,arogVne seveZ ou^to be visible, mu^t have hee» aboSlSI feet . Tht however IS supposi^g^ th. base under waCot to spread fedpttirfl^JSJ^*^^- Theves/els hadtSy " mried. ?hL wiS, ^ xnoun am, wL4n the eddy tide carriea. tliem with g^at rapidity Q^iongst a cluster Lf^:^ ^i^LT' ^i^% '^A P-'^ ""' aWrthe water T1?L^^^^'* ^* *^"'" ™ 210 feet - ^ of fwf 1-1 ^^'\^^ ^«« ™ ''"ining wildly at the Was a?ai^!f^'^^' ^ hour .sweeping.the vessfelg pafit the thS W ice a'w; ^'S ^'^ * «m^l*erg,miSn^ holes for aer ice anchors. They were therefore swept pAst and i. ■ i^^ B^H I / ''Jte - '^/^ 66 .-'/ soon beset. inast-b«a ■" T" « ^W^ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST |ARGET (MT-3) .^^-^^ ■^ <^A V.A ' '^^ 1.0 9 I.I S^ Ufi 12.0 u LgSiu ii.fe -vt •' ./ rfiotographic Sciences CorporaticHi 3» WIST MAIN STRUT WIUTIR.N.Y MStO (714) •73-4503 4* '^ ■ w . . • . ' -- . .. ■ . - ' ■ "/ ■* . . •• • . '•-,.■• ^:, ) 4^ ^ " J ' - ■ ■ . ■ ^ * ■ • - ■1 ■ ' - 9 ' ' • V ■, - ' ' .' ' ■ ■ ■ . . . ■ ' ■ ~- ., ■' ' ■ • '. '*'■''" '"^v ' '.' , * I*' * . '* ,. ■ ■ , '..-.-!■ • - • , -■••'■* "' ' , ■ ■ ■ ■-■ >'■■■;■■'.■ ■ • ' .^ . , ^^ ' ' V ' ' . ' ►^ 1 . ■ • « -J^, . , c» PROGRESS OP AUt/^IC DISCOVERV. Ugly or disffu^ting than the countenances of the old women, who had inflamed eyes, Vrinkled skin, black teeth, .and.^in fact, such a forbidding set of features as scarcely .could be called human; to which might be added their dress, which was such as gave them the appearance of aged ourang-outangs. Frobisher's crew may be pardoned tor having, m such superstitious times as a.d. 1576. taken one of these ladies for a witch, of whom it is said, • The old Wretch whom our sailors supposed to be a witch," had her buskins pulled off, -to see if she was doven-footedy and being very ugly and deformed, we let W go.' " In bartering they have a singular custoMKof ratifying the bargam, by licking the article aU over before it is put away m security. Cantain Lyon says he frequently shud- dered at seeing the children draw a razor over their tongue as unconcernedly as if it had been an ivory paper-knife. I cannot forbear quoting here some humorous passages trom his journal, which stand out in relief to the scientific and nautical parts of the narrative. ^v'l'^t® strangers were so well pleased in our society, that they shdfwed no wish to leave us, and when the market had quite ceased, they began dancing and playing with our people, on the ice alongside. This exercise set many of their noses bleeding, and discovered to us a ftiost nasty custom, which accounted for their gory faces, and which was, that as fast is the blood ran down, they scraped it with the fingers into their mouths, .appearing to con- sider It as a refreshment, or dainty, if we might judge by the zest with which they smacked their lips at each supply." * *. * *^ " S ^*'*J^'*i° amuse our new acquamtances as much as possible, the fiddler was sent on the ice, where he instantly found a most delightful set of dancers, of whom some of the women kept pretty good time. Their only figure con- Slated m stamping and jumping with all their might. Our musician, who was & lively fellow, soon caught the infec- tion, and began cutting capers also. In a short time every one on the floe, oflSoers, men, and savilg^es, were dancing together, and exhibited one of the most extraordinafy "^K'lts ^^®' witnessed. One of our seamen, of a fresh, ruddy oomnlexion, exijited the admiration of all the young females, who patted hit face, and danced around him wherever he went. " The exertion of dancing so exhilarated the Esquimaux, tnnt thpy hsd ^'- ...... .i . -^ of beiag-bois ami played many extraordinary pranks. Amongst others. It was a favourite joke to run slily behind the seamen, and icrousrjr ^ ■^F w* *-''„*jy™^ *■ PARBY'S SECOjn) TOYAGB. gg . Bhouting lojidlv in one ear, to eive them i.f *i, \very smart skp on the othw WlSS^i V*^^ "'^^ *"»e • sWnly saluted £ thiTmanner Jh^? ^*^^^ ^^' ^ ™ Bter^ed. to the grearamSent nf ?l TT' T*" q^te . cook, who wa« a moS S^a tnw^'*?°/^?^ '^'^ . became so great a favonrifo f W ^weaned I'umper, Buch boisdrou^ ^ts ^^f *a^' PH"''^ ^ ^^^^ from sports, soihe of th^squiLaS^ratW ^ 1:^^* ^*^«r ^reat good hmnour Si^J^ '■*'^^^^' ^'^^ ^ith One m^an. in ^^il^^^l^.^^^ P^^Pfe to wrestle. countmnen. attSd^'^ffieer^Vi^r T''^'^^ but the poor savage wm Sn^l \^'^ **'^^^ ^a^^'®. venr eas/ faU : yf^ ^thn^Sf^ ^^ **^''"' *^d with no at him, L bore Tf ^n-fl ' ^^ T®'^ ^^^ was laughinff same offi4 horded n^ Tf^l^ ^^ ^"^our- The . Weparlyof w^tntoClu^L^^^^^^^ - their toes out, and DPrPn^T'o 4^' shake hands, turn plishments; tiie whSe pS^^ other polite accoT aeWtiestricteslpvitr "'"^^ . '^^ P^P^s. pre- eck^Si^ilX^Sl^^^^^^ except the wal^ on Esquimaux returned to Sb^tstntrl^^^"^*^ which consisted of lumns of iw fl^^ *H"* '"?Pe'^ - of seals,- birds. entrauTS. uSI ^tl^- '^^ ^I'^^ber great zest, and wS kAivT; L fl ^ *^®"' H^" with and grease whilh rS"^^'^ ^P" **''»P^^ the blood mout&/' ^ "^ ^^'^ then- chins Into their ^ du^Tthet:;Pp^^^^^^^^^^ r« Men in with ' and Kottinghai^ lEs wfe ^P^^ ^^*''?e'^ SaUsbu^ - to beg, barter^r ?hW Ldf^r '*!?'^^>^ «« e««^*- ral repository of mos7of the t^east?« V"* ^^ ^^^ needles, pins, nails hiiffJ^^p k^ ®? ^^J receivea; ceteras. fcing Micri^aSlv .f '* ^^ ""^'^ «"^ et- detracting in ioXf^TfW^ ',*^,!^f.^ ^^aj there, but ^ 13th^f AugustTe weXt b^*^ "^ f^^^^^' ^n narwhals or sea-Sniwrns we?e vJrv^"'* "^ ""^ ^^' sbips, and boats werrs^f w tE^ numerous about the one. There TeZ^nZf^' ""^ "^'^"^^ ""cc^ss, to strike beautiful fi^h7;;To'a^"hftwT? " '^^^ °^ ^^ bom above the water and iTfnTif ** t"""^." *^^''* immensfr * Wks. which wele Slotted itK?^" "^^''^'f ^^^^^ «W England The Un&Z^^T^^^ T*^^ A" ^ « tJJ -^^3*^^ to PROGRESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVERT. siUocks, or young ooal-figh, to serve for two meala for the whole ship's company. During the night white whales were seen lying in hundreds close to the rocks, probably feeding on the sillocks. After carefully examining Duke Of York Bay, the ships got into the Frozen Strait of Middleton on the mornmg of the 20th, and an anxious day was closed by passing an opening to the southward, •which was found to be Sir Thomas Roe's Welcome, and heaving to foir the night off a ba^ to the north-west. The ships got well m to Repulse Bay on the 2W, and a careful examination of its shores was made by the boats. Captains Parry and Lvon, with several officers from each ship, landed and explored the northern shores, while a ^boat exammed the head of the bay. The waters of a long cove are described by Captain Lyon as being abso- lutelv hidden by the quantities of young eider ducks, which, under the direction of their mothers, were making their first essays in swimming. Captain Lyon with a boat's crew made a trip of a couple of days along some of the indents of the bay, and discovered an inlet, which, however, on being entered subsequerrtly by the ships, proved only to be the dividino- channel yfeetween an island and the mainland, about six miles imiength by one in breadth. Proceeding to the north- ward ItyHurd's channel, they experienced a long rolling ^^^^ Id swell setting against them. On the 2§th, ascend- ing a steep mountain. Captain Lyoh discovered a nojble bay, subsequently named Grore Bay, in which lay islainds, and towards this they directed their ooursew m t^flh ' , ——"J — »»v>»yw^u.v* vui^xi. uuumoa^a Captain Parry, who had been two days absent boats exploring the channel and shores of the^^ strait, returned on the 29th, but set off again on the same day with SIX boats to sound and examin© more minutely. When Parry returned at night, Mr. eriffiths, of the Secla, brought on board a large doe, which he had killed while swimming (amongst large masses of ice) from isle to isle ; two others and a fawn were procured on shore by the Jf'Mfy'* people. The game laws, as they were laid down on the former voyage whHe wintering at Melvillo Island, were once more put in force. These "enacted that for the purpose of economizing the ship's provisions, all deer or musk-oxen kiUed should be served out in lieu of the usual allowance of meat. Har^s, ducks, and other birds were not at this time to be included. As an encou- ragomont to u po rl ame n, -thg -farodr leKs. and u O al of thg - .arger animals were to be the perquisites of those who procured the carcases for the general good." "In the- p>- Fabry's seookd vpyaqe. 71 thisTllh. •'"*'"' ""' ^ "•" proceeding thxoueh ';ShT^e;SstrartK^^<'irh.rs*tS"' 4 great danger. ,The vLr^"h JfoftKehT? ^IJ . p^ted^^th i.. and n^o^t of'^^i^'t/o^^::^ /wo of the 8eal8 kiUed were immenae aaiiiab ^ fhi 73 (PKOGRESS OF ABOTIC DISCOVERT. \ bearded roeciee {Phocaharhata), very fat, weighing about • eight or hine cwt., the others were tiie common species {JP. vituUna.) « Captain Parry agam lefl; in boats on the 15th to examine wore uarefully the land that had been passed so rapidly on ttie 6th and 6th. Not finding him return on the 24th, CaptamLyon r^ down the coast to" meet him, and by burning blue lights fell in with him, at ten that night. It appeared he had been Awzen, up for two days on the second ei^ning after leaving. When he got clear he ran down to, and sailed round. Gore Bay, at that time per- fectly clear of ice, but by the next morning it was quite mled with- heavy pieces, which much impeded his return. Once! mor6 he was frozen up in a small bay, where he was detamed three days ; when finding there was no chance of getting out, in consequence of Uie rapid formation of young ice, by ten hours' severe labour, the boats were can-ied over a low point of land, a mile and a half wide, and once more launched. On the 6th of October the impediiftents of ice CQntinuing to mcrease, being met with in all its formations of sludgd or young ice, pancake ice and bay ice, a small open bay within a little cape of land, forming thp S. E. extremity of «n island off Lyon Inlet, was sounded, and being found to be safe anchorage the ships were brought in, and, from the mdications which were setting in, it was finally deter- mined to secure them there for the winter; by means of a CMial half a mi^e long, which was cut, theywere taken fu^er mto the bay. The island was named Winter Isle. Preparations were now made for occupation add amuse- ment, 80 as to pass awajr pleasantly the period of detention. A good stock of theatrical dresses and properties having been ^d m by the officers before leaving England^ arrangements were made for performing plafs fortnightly, as on their last winter residence, as a means of amusing the seamen, and in some degree to break tiie tedious monotony of their confinement. As there could be no desire, or hope of excelling, every officer's -^i^ame was readily entered on the list of dramatis persona, Captain Lvon kindly undertaking the difSbult office of manager. Those ladiea (says Lyon) who had cherished the growth of their beards and whiskers, as a defence against the mclemencT of the diteate, now generously agreed to do away with such unfeminine ornaments, and everything ' bade ftdr for a mo s t atyJiah thea tf«F Asa curiosity, I may here put on record the play-bill for parry's SECOND VOTAGB. 73 bdon"S!°^- ^^^^~^<^^*^««kiP^towlMch each officer >hea4^e BOYAL, The Publi6^ wspectfWiy informed th** #*;- r**T elegant. Theatre wiU ot«n fnr SI ***^ ^*i®' 7** t next, the 9th of NoyerSh^Jio^^ T^"" on Friaay fomed Sherid^'s^:^^^' a;^f -^ *>« Pe- THE BIVALS. Sir Lucius a maa'^ ' mP^SL^^^*^ <^««^). JPli^ ; . . f*'^-/-Headewon(JF^ry). f-*^ ; : : ^.-|fe^^^,. ^^ro^^,- : : |Ts&^f>^- « play. In tleZT^ IZ^^jJ^'f^'^^^^ot t4 >b** recount in so B^^t^^^iil'^^T '^^ ^^'^^ral ments. advancing ^t^^^^^^^^'^}''^''^'^^^^y^' " Old England " ^1,7 Jili ^® **"®' ^^ huMam? for Koria (which hid beelyXZ^;,";*''''?'""*""'*- the -hip, before Ie.vWl?,'K^hiS?"'^r'j'.*» ui a piay at tJie appointed tune. If it amuifed >t^- '^~j»- 74 PROGRESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVERT. ' f -* the seamen the purpose was answered, but it was a cruel task for the performers. " In our green-room (says Lyon), which was as much warmed as anjr other part of the Theatre, the thermometer stood at 16° and on a table which was placed over a stdve, and about six inches above it, the coflPee froze in the cups. For my sins, I was obliged to be dressed. in the height of the. fashion, as DicJc Dow- las, in the "Heir at Iiaw," and went through the last Bcene oft the play with two of my fingers frost-bitten ! Let those who have witnessed and admired the performances of a Young, answer if he could possibly have -ttood so cold a reception." Captain Parry also states in his Journal, " Among the recreations which aiForded the highest gratification to several among us, I may, mention the musical parties we were enabled to muster* and which assembled on stated ' evenings throughout the,?^ter, alternately in Commander Lyon's cabin and in i6^>.0mx. More skilful amateurs in music might well have smiled at these,, our humble con- certs, but it will not incline them to think less of the science they admire.to be assured that, in these remote and desolate regions of the globe, it has.often ftumished us with the ]^08t pleasurable sensations which our situation was capable of afibrding; for, independently of the mere grati- fication afforded to the ear by music, there is, perhaps, scarcely a person in the world really fond of it, in whose mind its sound is not more or less connected with * his far listant home.' There are always some remembrances which render them inseparable, and those associations are not to be despised, which, while we are engaged in the performance of our duty, can still oceasionSly transport us into the social circle of our friends at home, in spite of the oceans that roll between^us." But their attention was not confined to mere amusements. Much to the credit of . the seamen, an application was made in each ship for per- mission to open an evening school, which was willingly acceded to. Almost every man could read and some could write a little, but several found that, from long disuse, it was requisite to begin again. Mr. Halse volunteered to superintend the classes in the Fury; while Benjamin White, a seaman, who had been educated at Christ's Hospital, oflBciated as schoolmaster in the Hecla, and those best qualified to assist aided in the instruction of their s hipmates, who ma,d e ra pid pr ogress .i"On"i states that he received sixteen copies from men, who twa \ *' rmata second totage. 75 ^tnfZrrT^ln^:iJ"^ '?*«"• These little piide as if thT^tera hJTh?"' *°d »ent wia as much ..ye he fo^dT^.^t*teSw aST'S ^* - resembHnff that of & A ^o^i. Txu^ix *^® ^®^^ "i*^b occasjy Ktb a look at tt ^f '^^^^^^ "^^^^^^ ^^«»^ certe Jy the &st If th^,f f^"" ,^«P A^^^ on the deck! ' aJire oJ board a 2^ S)*' worse than to gb fo^^lSe iLJ li "^"^ m^^r^ii decided on. f L teJr^d7da« o^f ^^ '^^' therefore, behind, and ^thonly"a%/^^ s^ei^s;i4^7sSt^Arr ^ -d n^^^^^^^^^^ the commander himsetf*^' ""^ *^' ^'^^^^^^ *« i^elate/ by all professed extreme willingness to dn wi,!f !f ' ^^^^ ' told in, order to keep in eSse but nl« ir^^^""^^^ the contrary, they rL^ aCu^e'drSn m^^ 't^? • faces of several were severelv frost bifS^^f^i^ .% for a considerable time lost sLsatit^^?^ ^1 '"'"'^ ^^ toes ; yet thev made Lf +l! i^- ?. .^ *^®^' ^g®'^ and parts '^ffecS'^^Ld e4n Sn^^^^^^^^ custpm of warminff each otb«Tnn^? - their general tion of the skS Vr Pa W^ observmg a discolora- bnilding a sn^w waU' ostrfKl ^^''^^t f^^ 5^^Pl« ^^ wind, but in fad; Wivp f W^^ ^ ? '^^^J^' ^^^ tl^o stiU must We D^vef ft J Z"" ^''^•^''^'' ^^^^ standing My attentir;a'3'^rcW^^^^ man who, having been repJaSdl%^ed fat .,?^''^- was frozen, had naid Tin o+/l«+,^ ^^ V/*™®? , ^^a* his nose had now extended over one sXof iL vJrt?"?""''''' frozen as hard as a m««lr . rt,/ r j ^'' ''"'''i "»» comer of the n^r^^i' j*^° ^^^^'^ r«« "'iff. and one and gnms MiCxds' h^W S^X^ W?."'t'»'"l 5^or A^r JsS^^"" -^"^ ^"i Siv^aK^i^^tS^-Xro^i J' n preventmg the meh from nmnmg to thi different %! #-'-*P:):-. ' -•■^--m./-'i^-"- V, ■■'M. 78 ^ k PBOOIUBSS or ARCTIC DISCOVERY. :•.♦ f objects '^hioh attra<^d them, and consequently losing themselves in the drift. In this state, while Mr. Pahher was running round us to warm himself, he suddenly pitched on a new beaten^ack, and as exercise was indispensa^e, we determined on following it, wherever it might lead us. Haviing taken the sergeaut imder my coat, he recovered, a little, and we inoved onwards, when to our infinif^ joy we found thJttt the path Ted to the ships." As the result of this exposure, .one man had- two of his finders so badly frost-bitten as to lose a gcfed de^l of the jflesh of the upper ends, and. for many daytf it was feared that he would be obHged to have them amputated. Quar- ti?r-master Carr, one of those who had been the most •hardy while in the air, fainted twice on^etting below, an4 every one had severe frost-bites in di^rent parfe of ^e body, which recovered after the usual loss of skin inthese cases. ^ One of the Esquimaux females,, by name Igloolik, w^o plays q," conspicubus part in the narrative, was a general favourite, being possessed of a large fuAd of useful infprma- ^tion, having a J»ood voice and ear for music, being an '^excellent sempstress, and having such a good idea Qf the Tiydrography and bearings of the neighbouring sea-coasts, ' as to draw charts which- guided Parry much in his future ' operations, for he found her sketches to be in the main cor- rect. She connected the land from their winter-quarters to the nQjth-west sea, rounding and terminating the northern extremityof this part of America, by a large island, and a strait of suflScient. magnitude to afford a safe pdssage for the ships. This little north-west passage,' observes Lyon, set Ufi all castLe-building^^ and we ah-eady fancied the worst part of our voyage over"; or, at all events, that before hdC the ensuing sunamer was past;' we should^rrive at Akkoolee, the Esquimaux setatlement pn the western shore. Half-' way between that coast and Eepulse' Bay, Igloolik drew on her chart a lake of considerably size, having small streams running from it to the sea, on each ^ide ; and the • correctness of thid information was fully proved by Kae in his recent expedition in 1846. > On the 13th of April their Esquimaux friends took their departure for other quarters; towards the end of the mont^^he crews completed the cutting of trenches round the ydlfels, in ordfer that they nl|eht rise to their proper ' bearings pr^vipus to working in the holds, and the^hips ^ flo ated like corks' on thei f native ele m ent, after thftir long ifflprisoninent of 191 day». As the season appeared to be ' improvingj a^other*land expedition was determined on. ^ PARfiT's SECdSD VOTAOB, - . * 79 Umoclcs, oS-s^elTes SsSJ^^ST^ . pleas^iit tumbles. It ^mZlTl ^^^ ^^^^ ^ety un- ^ W9 then landed on a smaU' fe ^ ''''* *^° °^^^' ^ some places itwM ^^n'l? ^^ T"^^ four feet, b.ut arduous task had ™uD7e?fl?«f**'^^^^"*- This truly . Bix in the mominrreiiL>i^'TL^'"^*^^^ and It was conclude on tS^lSh n?f *^\^^^^ ^"^our, «lfid men beg^ to takf^vl^f fe/^^^^^^^^^ ^■v,' ■"^^ 80 > PROGRESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVERT. promenades, partioolarly the " garden" of each ship, which had become favourite lounges during their nine months' detention. A few ill-fated bunting came near enough to ^ be shot, and were instantly roasted for a'fairewell supper, and bright visions of active exertions on the water on the morrow were universally entertained. But the night jdis- peUed all these any castles, for with, the morning's dawn, they found that the whole body of ice astern of the ships had broke adrift, filled up the hard-wrought canal, and imprisoned them as firm as ever. DeatjMiDw for the first time visited the crews. James . Pringle, a seaman of the Hecld, fell from the mast-head to * the deck, and was killed on the 18th of Mav. Wpi. Souter, cjuarter-master, and John Beid, carpenter s mate, belong- ing to the Furv, died o\ the 26th and 27th, of natural causes. Towards the end of JTune, the sea began to clear rapidly to the eastward, and the bay ice soon. gave way as far as where the ships were lying, and on the 2nd of July they put to sea with a fresn breeze, after Having been frozen in for 267 days. In making their way- to the northward, they were fre- quently in much danger. On the 3rd, the ice came down on the Hecla with sucn force as to carry her on board the Fury, by whiclj the Hecla broke her. oest bower anchor, \ -and cut he.r waist-boat in two. On ilie 4th, the pressure of the ice was so great as to breaJk the Hecla adnft from three hawsers. Four or five men were each on separate pieces of ice, parted from the ships in the endeavour to ruA out a hawser. A heavy pressure closing the loose ice, unexpectedly gave them a road ,on board again, or they must have oeen carried away by the stream to certain destruction. On the 8th, the Hecla had got her stream- cable out, in addition to the other hawsers, and madfe fast to the land ice, when a very heavy and extensive floe took j the ship on her broadside, and being backed by another large body of ice, gradually lifted her stem as if by the action of a wedge. "The weight every moment increasing, obliged us," says Captain Lyon, " to veer on the hawsers, whose fric- tion was so great as nearly to cut through the bitt-heads, and ultimateJ^ to set them on fire, so that it became requi- ^^ site for people to attend with buckets of waten The pres- sure was at length too powerful for resistance, ana the stceam-oali^le, with two sir and one five-inch hawsers, all -gaye^ • .i ..... ing them. The sea was too full of ice to allow the ship to vJi'i " . '•^^^'S SECOND VOYAGE. ., onre, and the only wav ,« »,i, i. , enormous w,eight w^ii oppTeS^ed'^" "''^^ ^^^^^ *<^tie over on tialand ice whJu f Efl ^ '^®'' ^as by Jeanina entirely lifted to aK the hei^^^^ trater The lower deck beLg n?w ^^ ^r^ ^"^* ««* of The and the whole frame of +?? i^^*^PP^a'»ed very muoh At the same ihoment, the rudd«r ». ^®°^^«»ed vessel jerk, which broke xiT^^ZT'^''''S'^^^^^dden' ' V^:^? ^*^ ^«^fc f?rce." "'•'"«"• ^»d stanick the . -fa3e!td^4^^^^^^^^^^^^ -s released almost by I^Ioo ik. where they came ,?nn/ ^® Esquimaux lady-- Esquimaux, in tenL TapffJS^"^™P™«^<^ of I20 the shores of the Fury aSd WpnffT!^.? «xc'«'^''ion8 aJon^ <^e 26th of Augu8nhe^?hi«ri;f'*™>f?^^^Jand.-of was found blocked up with S!ft?*^^^^^ «<^ait. whS httle probability of ffettinffrnxuflffiu* *^^^® seemed but no harbour to protect the Eir^H'"^'* •• knowing of *ook place, they had X It*^' ^^'^^^ * favourable chaS«S wmtering in or near th^^fi^i^HtSSn* before them ff pwties were dispatched in sTveiSLl^S^^*:- ^^^^^^^^ and land *^^di^rent localities "^ directions, to report upon "iand oftla'te form'^t^STatut''?**^-,^ '^^^^ on an of the ships, 'which he nCd A 'h^.;^i'?i*^ *^« '^^^twaJd «ffl, ^T e^P^di^^'ons pS)ved 1£S'S* ^'^^.^- Ther,«j; of th« 1^ ^'^V^ ^'^t*' conveySSL'L™ "?Practicable. of the knd sorfth-west of IgSk in con^"'" "^^ ^^ MtTL^'A ^, *^ °"''"» consequence 0/ the termination of the t^^Vn?^' '^f ascertaSe?the officers, Captain Pan.ydete,^l^°?°'^^*'on with the to Iglo* hoth ships, got a„.y7„ tte s^ai^"? ™*« q»«ters. the shx^s he reach tlS^^nirt^J U'e mfbrmation of Frajiilia, shoulS « very remarkable nW 5^ the time they were planted, the 7ann .^^S^gP-;;^^^ preserved by by thrSnt"m?re't"^'r^ 5^ P"'««e. were driven mercy ot^^iTL^o^/iS^''- ™'^'^ »* *« -ept over each j^in,'^?^,^ ^^rfYe^'lC^ Thed.n,rS7.rpetTS?''Ltr^:^%'"'^''"8'''- •fliirs, eitWbTb^w'leftr^l.'^'r^ '^"'8» "» O" have shd over us. ' But M thS „^^ ij """"^ »""' •ipre.se. himwlf. -Q^' "h„*^* good old seaman Baffin OT tide. .I„.y „"" JT J J°?. " g^«t»t Uum either in. periStd'd^;:^»^"'»"^'P'>»dbe»bo,et,«.dma^^ Jay exertion^XiT^'t. dX''"';,**' '^'» "'«"»" uu umr paw, """to without a powibiUty if I Tf 84 PROGRESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVERY. of extricating themselves. On the 23rd of September they once more got into the swell o^ the Atlantic, and on the 10th of October arrived at Lerwick, in Shetland. . Clavering's Votaob to Spitzbeegen and Gbeen- LAND, 1823. ' ~^ In 1823, Capt. Sabine, B.A., who had been for some time engaged in magnetic observations, and also in experi- ments to determine the configuration of the earth, by- means of pendulum vibrations in different latitudes, having perfected his observations at different points, from the Equator to the Arctic Circle, suggested to the Eoyal Society, through Sir Humphry Davy, iSie importance of extending similar experiments into higher latitudes towards the Pole. Accordingly, the Government placed at his disposal H.M.S. Griper, 120 tons, Commander Clavering, which was to convey him to Spitzbergen, and thence to the east coast of Greenland. The Grip«r sailed from the Nore on the 11th of May, and proceeded to Hammerfest, or Whale Island, near the Nortn Cape in Norway, which she reached on the 4th of June, and Capt. Sabine having finished his shore observa- tions by the 23rd, the vessel set sail for Spitzbergen. She fell in with ice off Cherry Island, in lat. 75° 5', on the 27th, and on the 30th disembarked the tents and instru- ments on one of the small islands round Hakluyt's Head- land, near thp eightieth parallel. Capt. Glavenng, mean- while, sailed in the Griper due north, and reached the latitude of 80° 20', where being stopped by close packed ice, he was obliged to return. On the 24th of July they again put to sea, directing their course for the highest known point of the eastern coast of Greenland, llaey met with many fields of ice, and made the land, which had a most miserable desolate appearance, at a point which was named Cap6 Borlase Warren. IWo islands were discovered, and as Capt. Sabine here landed and carried on his observations, they were called Pendulum Islands. From an island "situate in -at. 75° 12', to which hei gave the name of Shannon Island, Clavering saw high land, stretching due nojrth aa far as lat. 76°. On the 16th of August, Clavering landed with a party of three officers and sixteen men on the mainlMid, to examine the ihoTOB. The temperature did not sink below 23", amih they slept for nearly a fortnight they wore on shore with only a boat-cloak and blanket for a covering, without feel- v'A-ff "^TT^IB^f-' , lYOK's FOTA^E m THE QBIPER. g^ ^anj inconvenieace from, the cnU a * -u - Esquimaux was met wiS here T^'^ ^ *\^^°^ *^elye journey a magnificent^et S^„f ^2: ''®^^«*^ "» t^eir ftrence. which was sSpposfd tt flf^ ""^^"^ ^ °^««^ Hamkes discovered K54 L U^t"'" ""'^^^ ^^le The mountains rounHif-ol^' ° ^^^^^ ^^ars his name On Uie 29tk of ZJl 'ttVT:^^ SOOOfeet h%h taring ^mbarkedthltents ^/in?^^^ ^^ ''««'a8t ^d about the latitude of rUw-^®- .^^^7 ""ade the October the Oripe^Vackhs^aT'''^^' .^^^t^elstof gotoff undamageS ^^^ ^'^ * S'^en rock, but tW wt r^l?veT:?J?ruM^^^^^ -^-e . aad after the necessZr^C^J^^f^^j ^^ hospitality, the ship proceeded Umt^^^A ^*^^b«/° completed the 19t£ of December.7823. '^*°^^*^ Deptford on si'^oi^peSr n^d^-^ -** to car^ on Lyon was comi^ttedt^eLw'.^"?^-^^^- To dpt. ing the survey of the Mel^Sifp^'^"^"^ ^^ complet- striuts. and the^shores offiic Amr*"^?; *^^ ^^^^^^^f^ as Franklin's turning pobt CaS T*" ^PO««ble as faJ gazetted to the G^IJ^S-bria^lr ^if\'T therefore Capt. Sabine to SpitzWffJS^VhS'^^-^^ ^*^ **^en out W.g ojieers anS crZZr^'J^'^^J^^^^^^ fol- Griper, ' Captain-G. F. Lyon. J^ieutenants— P. Manjco and T? TT.»^- ^4 Petty officers, seamen. &o Total complement, 41. I>. i mmmmmmmmfmmmmmm 86 PROOIffiSS OF ABOTIO DISCOVIRT. It was not till the 20th of June that the Griper got away from England, being a full month later than the' usual period of departure, and the vessel was at the best but an old tub in ner sailine properties. A small tender, called the Snap, was ordered to accompany her with stores as far as the ice, and having been relieved of her suppUes, she was sent home on reaching Hudson's Straits. The Griper made but slow progress in her deeply laden state, her crowded decks being continually swept oy heavy seas, and it was not until the end of August that she -rounded the southern head of Southampton Island, and stood up towards Sir Thomas Roe's "Welcome. On reach- ing the entrance of this channel they encountered a terrific gale, which for a long tim^ threatened the destruction of both ship and crew. Drifting with this, they brought up the ship with four anchors, in a bay with five fathoms and a half water, in the momentary ejqpectation that with the eibb tide the ship would take the ground, as the sea broke ftarfully on a low sandy beach just astern, and had the anchors parted nothing could have saved the vessel. Neither commander nor crew had been in bed for three nights, and although little hope was entertained of surviving the gale, and no boat could live in such a sea, the officers and crew pfflrformed their several duties with their accustomed coolness. Each man was ordered to put on his warmest clothing, and to take charge of some use- fal instrument. The scene is best described in the words of the gaUant commander : — " Eadi, therefore, brought his bag on dedc, and dressed himself; and in the fine athletic forms which stood exposed before me, I (|id not see one milscle quiver, nor the slightest sign of alarm. Prayers were read, and they then all sat down in groups, sheltered from the wash of the sea by whaievef they could find, and some endeavoured to obtain a little sleep. Never perhaps was witnessed a finer scene than on the deck of my little ship, when all hope of life had left us. Noble as the character of the British ] sailor is always allowed "to be in cases of danger, yet I did not believe it to be possible that among forty-one persons not one repining word should have been uttered. Each was at peace wim his neighbour and all the world ; and I am firmly persuaded that the resignation which was then shown to the will of the Almighty, was the means of ' ^t#ttttttg^ ffifr moroy. -God was m p roifnV ^o^ 4ig, aad t h e^^ tide, almost miraculously, fell no lower." The appropriate name of the Bay of God's Mercy has been given to this spot on the charts by Capt. Lyon. parhy's third voyaoe. 87 12th of September when ^fl! - 1^ ^*?S- ^ *e it blow, so Wfoitr^fa^trr ifc."^^*' was driven from her An,>hfi^ „ j • , •^^**^ *"® ^^»P fiiiT of the gSrwiU e?^?:^^'^,!?! '?^?^ *^«y by the good ProviWeS htd^«^t^^5^^^^^^^^ a^ain stood their protector Hn^ ^^i^"^""^^^ *^®n>' officers, it was unanCuTresoked "Z^^^'^'^i. ^*> !^ ^^ik^ ChSter*^H± '^\ ^^ « ^^- l«id Jp dep6tfor'iifcralrgfaS*r^^ ^ '«*^- Pabby's Third Votagb. i Cal? p!rSlS.^.f ^^^^ *^« Admiralty determined to ffi^e p^eS^icrh^XT^^S^^ -v^^S westpiMsaite to rt. Pn^S„ . J*^ ' after of a north- wa, tL gXI?oot^"K\rhfW5; hSftT* pennant, when fearUaa nf nil ^„ i . **^ ^°i^* *^^8 officers and men was.as follows ._*'*'"'''^^- -^^o s**^ Pf as a and Mecla, Captain— W. E. Parry. Xtr^- ^- ^^^ J^««P^ Sherer, and Henry Surgeon— Samuel NeiU, M.D Purser-W. H. Hooper. Assistant-Surgeon- ^. Eowland. JgjPgttxQfficara, S o amcnr^aftd-Mariues. - ^ Total complement, 62. . 88 - \ ,^» • . J.- 'f «(.- t, -V- 1» • . S -'-t-TJ- t. ■ '■Ij/'S ?B0ORES8 OF ARCTIC DISCOVERT. Commander— H. P. Hoppner. . Lieutenants— H. T. Austin and J/C. Eosa." Surgeon — ^A. M'Laren. Purser— J, Halse. Assistant- Surgeon — T. Bell. Midshipmen-B. Westropp, C. C. WaUer, and E. Bird. Clerk— W. Mogg. Greenland Pilots— G. Crawford, master ; T. Donaldson, < mate. 48 Petty OjBBcers, Seamen, and Marines. Total complement, §0. The William Harris, transport, was commissioned to accompany the ships to the ico with provisions. Among the promotions made, it will be seen, were Lieut. Hoppner, to the rank of Comi^ander, and second in command of the expedition. Messi-s. J. Sherer and J. C. Eoss to be Lieu- tenants, and X Halse to be Purser. The attempt on this occasion was to be made by Lancaster Sound through Barrow's Strait to Prince Regent Inlet. The ships sailed on the l9th of May, 1824, and a month afterwards . fell m With the body of the ice in lat. 60J°. After trans- shipping the stores to the two vessels; and sending home the transport, about the middle of Jult they were close beset with the ice in Baffin's Bay, and " from this time (sajrs Parry) the obstructions from the quantity, magni- tude, and closeness of the ice, were sucn as to keep "our people almost constantly employed in heaving, warping, or sawing throi^h it ; and yet with so little success that, at the close of July, we had only penetrated seventy miles , to the westward." After encountering a severe gale on the Ist of August, by which masses of overlaying ice were driven one upon the other, the Hecla was laid on her broadside by a strain, which Parry says must inevitably have crushed a vessel of ordinary strength ; they got clear of the chief obstructions by the first week in September. During the whole of August they had not one day suffi- ciently free from rain, snow, or sleet, to be able to air the bedding of the ship's company. They entered Lancaster Sound on the 10th of Sep- lomber, and with the exception of a solitary berg or two iound it clear of ice. A few day s after ihP^j^ hnwAypr/fell in withlhe youngTce, wKch increasing daily in thickness, the ships became beset, and by the current which set to the cast at the rate of three miles an hour, the^ were soon i. " »i^v ^•*"'^-yn0f- tBRYS THIRD VOYAGE. 89 x^ «o \^^\ ^^ *^® eastward of Admiralty Inlet, and on the 23rd they found themselves again off Wollaston Island, at the entrance of Navy Board Inlet. By perse- verance, however, and the aid of a strong easterly breeze they once more managed to recover their lost ground, and on the 27th reached the entrance of Port Bowen on the eastern shore of Prince Eegent Inlet, and here Parry resolved upon wintering ; this making the fourth winter this enterprising commander had passed in these inhos- pitable seas. The usual laborious process of cutting canals had to be resorted to, m order to get tjie ships near to the shore in secure and sheltered situations. Parry thus describes the dreary monotonous character of an Arctic winter : " I*j8 hard to conceive anyone thing more like another «ian two winter* passed in the higher latitudes of the Jb-olar regions, except when variety happens to be afforded bv intercourse with some other branch of the whole family ot man. Winter after winter, nature here assumejs an aspect so much alike, that cursory observation can scarcely detect a single feature of variety. The winter of more temperate climates, and even in some of no slight severity 18 occasionally diversified by a thaw, which at once gives variety and comparative cheerfulness to the prospect. But here, when once the earth is covered, all is dreary mono- tonous whiteness, not merely for days or weeks, but for more than half a year together. Whichever way the eye 18 turned, it meets a picture calculated to impress upon the mmd an idea of inanimate stillness) of that motionless torpor with which our feelings have nothing congenial ; of anvtlung, m short, but life. In the very silence there is a deadness with which a human spectator appears out of keeping. The presence of man seems an intrusion on the dreary solitude of this wintry desert, which even its native animals have for awhile forsaken." During this year Parr^ tells us the thermometer re- mained below zero 131 days, and did not rise above that point tiU the nth of April. The sun, which had been absent from their view 121 days, again blessed the crews with his rays on th^ 22nd ot February. During this Jong imprisonment, schools, scientific observations, walk^ mg parties, &c., were resorted to, but " our former °g^"»^ygPt8r"Bay8P nr Ty^"bdPga l m og4wQ^ It required some ingenuity to devise any plan that should possess the charm of novelty to recommend it." AJiappy ^dea was; however, hit upon by Commander Hoppner, at Whose suggestion a monthly bal rsja^ui was held,^ tho ffj''-'' ■">■ " " ■ ST'V'-,- mmmmmm mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm 90 PROORESS OF ARCTIC "IMSCOVBRY. great diversion of both officers and men,-*© the number of 120. The popular commander entered gaily into their recreations, and thus speaJcs of these Polar mas- querades:—;- " It is iippossible that any idea could have proved more happy, or more exactly suited to our situation. Admirably dressed characters of various descriptions readily took »y ^ their parts, and many of these vrere supported with ^ /degree of spirit and genuine good humour which would not have disgraced a more refined assembly; while the latter might not have b^en disgraced by copying the good order, defcorum, and inoffensive cheerfulness which our humble masquerades presented. It does especial credit to the dispositions and good sense of our men, that though all the officers entered fully into the spirit of these amuse- ments, which took place once a month alternately on board of each ship, no instance occurred of anything that could interfere with the regidar discipline, or at all weaken the respect of the men towards their superiors. Ours were masquerades without Hcentiousness — carnivals without excess." Exploring parties Were sent out in several directions. Commander Hoppner and his party went inland, and aftjer a fortnight's fatiguing joumfey over a mountainous, barren, and desolate country, where precipitous ravines 500 feet* deep obstructed their passage, travelled a degree and three- quarters— to the latitude of 73° 19'— but saw no appear- ance of sea from thence. Lieuteiiant Sherer with four men proceeded to the southward, and made a careful«.8urv(By of the coast as far as 72i°, but had not provisions sufficient to go round Cape Kater, the southernmost point observed in their „fonner voyage. > ' " lieutenant J. C. Boss, with a similar paity, travelled to the northward, along the poast of the Inl/t, and from the hills about Cape York, observed tl^at the Aea was perfectly open and free from ice at the distance of tWenty-two miles „ from the ships. f ** After an imprisonment of about ten mbiiths, by great eiertions the ships were got clear from the ie^^j^d on the ' 20th of July, 1825, upon the separation of th6 Me across the harbour, toWed out to sea. Parry then made lor the western shore of the Inlet, bemg desirous of examining _the coast of Nort h S omerset for any channel that rn\^t^ occur, a probability which-Iater discoveries in that quarteu- have proved to be without foundation.^nthe 28th, wheq well in with the western shore, the Hecla, in spite of every ' '%:il ^ery's third voyage. 91 v. Uvlft^ZZh^^^-^^ ^''^^ '^^' ^^ ^^^ breaking two ilT If M^ohoM m endeavouring to heive in shore wm in wS f? ^^^^™? day. ^ heavy gale came on. m^ which the feclals^s^ awayTfchree hlwaerrwMe watef ^n."? '^'^"^ °V^«'^' /b^t ^as hoveoff 'at hkh water. Both ships we^^now dfifted by jaTe- bodv offf a ice down the Inlet, an/took the gromid,^^^Lwso nipped and strained that she leaked a gieat^Kd Er S''ltv"r*"^^f7^i^ didnoTfeept^^llrTf ^ fie 2nd of A^.^r.^^t*"'^ ^^ ** ^^^ "^^*«r, but, late o^ !?! '^^^ ''^^ August, the-huge masses of ice once more forced m^sTT^n J T^ ^'**> ^^?^ «^' ^^ was W(f that she . ™?^ aJS. X reception and completed^by thdTieth li S^^dS wh«H^ ''^"*^^^?' ^^^^^ tfce icebergsX w^^ jZ7h^\^^^''\'^^'^ *^^^ «^ ^our fathoms of " JtoiS ifJ^ *^' ^*«"^ « V ™ taken on the 18th, and her but atl n? Tr*^ ^•""'^ '"°*°^^^' «^« ™ l^o^e do^! ^flt^T^^T"','^ coming on and destroying the masses bark the stores, &c., and" once more put to sea • but the -^ lc^ekT^X.l ' f"^ ''^- ^^"^ *^^«^ O'^ sl^ore. After •toXmlnnT^ ^^ examination, il^was found necessary to abandon her: Pawy's opinion being thus expressed floi S/fn^^^^T ^^ ^T *^ S«* ^^'^ff' or if ^ot off, to «fwi I "" 1^^ ^""P^ P^^«^ «f safety, would & at onw rp3*-^'''^ ""^'i*^^ /^P' ^<^ *^ crowded st^e of the Ihr^l7''fi: ""^^^ it i^ossible to think of conto^ tne voyage for the purposes. ofdiscoveiT. " ^ «r,;i if ® „"^cessant labour, the congftant state of anxiety ^vt^shSr^'^fr^ imminent Waxier into which ^^8^ l^J^ TO wa« thrown, m the attempts to save heu.com. rade, ,whicl were continued for^enty -five days destro v?d Sa/r"""^^? rP^«*ation f the4 ^eSed o/Se nltynateaccomphshment of this object." ^ "^ "le TtLjI ^.d^antage of a northerly wind, on the 27th the^ -^-fftiitf^THarbour, a short cfistance to the southwaxd of •^ot'rerdvt ^"^'^^^^'.^l Bowen, where the sH^wi ^ot rea(g for crossmg the Atlantic. ^ Ihe ^ecla put to Befon the Slst of August, and enter- J ■te' (BESS OF AWma mSCOVERT. iiiy Byrow'g Steait on the Irt cf Septembdr, found it fwfectlydearofice. In Lancaster Sotind a very larcre fn H J .of-bergs were seen; but they found an open sea JB Ba^i g Bay tOl, on the 7th of September, when in lati- ^Uj 1 ' ^®7 ^''^^ *^ ^'^^ marinn of the ice, and soon *^mma ft ilear channel on its east^m side. From thirty to forty l«we icebergs, not less than 200 feet in height, ^were sighted. , On tlie 12th of October, Captain Parry landed at Peter, head, and the Becla arrived at Sheemess on the 20th But one mjm died during this voyage— John Page, a sea-' man of ^ J?^^-who died of scurvy, iu Weill's Harbour, on the 29th of August. » ' Thia voyage cannot But be considered the most unsuc- cessful of the three made by Parry, whether as regards the intormataon gleaned on the subject of a north-^est passaffG or the extension of our store of geographical or scienfific knowledge. The shores of this I^et were more naked, barren, and desolate than even Melville Island, yvitn the exception of some hundreds of. vhite whales ^een sportmg about the most southernmost part of the Inlet that was visited, few other species of aniinals were seen. on which so little of ammal life ojBrs. Por days to- fnS'JL^ VT*"?^"^!'^*^'' *'^8^^»-^<>'58e. ani now and tHen a flock ofttucks were se^ii." - He still cHngs to the accomplishment of the ffreat object of a north-west passage. At page 184 of his official narrative, he says — "I feel confident that the undertaking, if it be deemed advisable at any future time to pursue it, wiU one day or T-®i*»®fCcomplished; for— setting aside the accidehte to r ilf^*'^°*„*^^/®'7 nature, such attempts must be iiable,^s well as other unfavourable circumstances which Jiuinan foresight can never guard against, or human powe controM cannot but believe it to b^^p enterpris^i ^thm the reasonable limits of practMility. It may ^ed often and fail, for several favourable and fortunW cu^umstances must be combined for its accomplishment ; but I b^heve, ^evertheless, that it wiU ultimately be acoompMyi." • , -^ ""^ f ^'^^K^^i!*^^®^* indeed,'* he adds, "if the north- ^^^^*l!^SHSi&°^^.*^® business of a single summer; ^^y* - i^JtW^ tliP^^^"^ ^^^ * concurrence of very sleAlldMinrtus ^ JSgl 6VeF to make a sinife lifficient »Fit8 ^"X^ 5.' ivifiieir in ever to make a singl accomplishment. But .\ there is no Jj^gftlm^t against the possibihty of final success : 1' f,^ rrv t-^- '^ -1*. J ■^''/rVTI^ > '« FKANKLIN*S SECOND EXPEDITION. 93 for we now know' that a wmter ih f K« ' ,„« ». *^ ^ pa^l^ahf.^ Sift* iiXr" *""' ^^* "'» ^ ttA ■^'*^^''^'^''' Second Expedition, 1826-26 - , .Horn to BehSs Stents t„^ *"°^ ""'.',«>°''d Cape « conveyance home fa> (he ffi *° ""^ *"»«'•' "^ , arrived at New Ywi IboilX^!?/*?'?^' "^' >" officers imderlIordeUwe«VTAu''*^l.?^F"''''- The *d fcUowsufer^TthSeSe^li^'SPl'T X"" «°d Lieutentot Back, with Mr Elf^Ffj'.?^"?- was given. To B^k and M. ^^""^""^ ^^ ^^'^ ^'^^Wif Hudson's Bay C« 30'^ land-marks, and C^g d^rpa^f,'t;''c f^^l"^ ^^ <"• near a cape which he naieH iftT.I' , Y*P° Krusenstem, The slSp retuVned tHh^Z!? *^™''''"' """^Cape. the 28th of AuZTt t£ k ""'T'^n »■' V*' «vetii"K of "V^liW^ "i^" »^^- "^ "^ '"' .tmS»d"a J^""/£ ""^ f «>»« parties, they «,n. s^srf^'^" ttyTflXLtve'^riittt Ls «-^ lowed her as soon ba i^J^ northward, and the shin M. September, X^ ^ta^dW ^^ C?^*«d- On the 9?h of Kotzebue Sound. thT sSf Lf?^ the northern shore of the .round on a Cd-btf ^XTl*^ *V ?^^^* <«ok wmtfmoderating. aa the tide ^« 2 *^'*°' ^''^^^' but the Warently withouU^jl^ ''^''* ""^ *^' '^°*^ to Cia'niso I^l ;S fr^^ «Wp™ck they beat up September. Not fliC 5ie fc^^^ ""? *^« ^^th oY the coast was scanrf ^LdTsVn'^r^l flymg on the south-west SSbt of fhn .^^^«urth voyaoe. ^P^M.^^t^'i^^^^ been speciaUy TW were twenty feet CJTd LlnT H ""^^ «^ P^^^e. of felt between the Kw L^^^ ^^^"^ ^J sheets canvass. A runner att^&tn 'i?^ -T^*^ waterproof •adapted them for easy i^SwnfT^ "^i of the Wl, of a sledge. Thev werp?i^! «l?^*^? i*'® «^J* ^^^ manner if deem^i e^S":,! us'fS'^^'lCo^.S^"^' *->^d men were attached to each bo^t o ^ .?''^™ '^^ *^«lve ^e^n^^m, and the Sdeavo' Jt^'^ ^T ""^^^ ^7m mf^'f^ provisions aid e,Try re^uS ^^* "^ f^^ 3780 lbs. laeuts. Crozier and vllil ^^^J'*'"*©, was about and Capt. Parry took w?J^^- • ^^^ ^ere left on board Surgeon^ whuI^L^Z. 7no/c"an? ^ ^"* ^'- B^^^'^.' Lieut, (now Commander)XdT*d ®Jf„ James) Eoss, and , The reindeer and the X?]« tl ^''■^^ ""^ *^^ «<^or. , owmg to the rough natSe^f Th' Z T^^-"^ ^P «" «««i«S. were taken-the^ dailHlowa^n^ ^ ^^"^««« for 71 days being 10 ozs. biscuit! 9oZ v!JZ '"'^ ^^ ^^^ Journey cocoa powder (being enough to^S«T' •\?^- «r^tene3 of rum; but scanty provision i^ ^^ 1?'°*^' ^^ O'^o gill poyed on severe labo^?!^^^^*^^^^ for men 4- also served out to eachTei- w^k ^"'^ ^^ *^^^««« ^^ consu^elXt:^^^^^^^^^ of wine were twice a day being S^fficfp W''''"^^^^^' « Pi«»t when applied to in iJ^n fir S ^T" ^"^^ ^o«»el, seven wicks. After Ctin. Th« ^/ » «baUow lamp with niJes, they came t6 In ufpTe^^t ^f*^ ^^S'^^^"* ^''^^ water, here their toilsome im^t^l ^^^ surface of ice ^d .Irving to be hdenZ'iZdelT"'?:'^'^^'^^^ ing as they came to flZ^of W^ T '^''^''i?^ *^^e« accord- were drifted to the sSwIh^v A"??' ^^.T?*^'' ^^^ tbey or five miles a day. Pa,Tv fnlJ^l^^^ to travel by night thfsnLT^'^ '^.^'^^^ adVantageoua inconvenience of snow birdl««T^- ^^^'^ ^f^«'' »"^ the party enjoyed greate7wam?h ^ bemg avoided, while the jnd^had better^po^tZWl^f.^^^^^^^^^ 5'».ff by davrsn3...,„^^J_r°5 by natural orde/o? ?hiZ fe f? *^°»r*«^^ inverte/tS /^^l Ourflfll^^- "rxi^.^ ^'^^^P tbat It was diffinnif. f^ ^-!1-T ' I o-™.i.e. Of the ^s?;.*''^;/,?: i^i -,ps?^ !i':; 100 PROGRESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVERY. '« ■ wlio were aJl furnished with pocket chronometers couW jot ahvays bear in mind at wfiat part of X tw^ntV-fonr honrs we had arrived; and there ^ere several of ?h^ ^^ n£?;^ r^*"*!^ ^^^ ? ^^^r^ *^3^' *^at they never know nigM from day durmg the whole excursion. .^"^ '''^^^ When we rose in the -evening, we commenced our dav by prayers, after which we tSok off our f^ «le^7 m!^:'.r^ P,1 "? clothes for IraveUing; Sef^er S made of camlet hned with racoon skiS, and tKter o^ strong blue cloth. We made a point of dways puttin J^^^^^ the same stockings and boots !for travelWilSher they had been dried during the day or not?ind'l bdieve It was only m five or six fnstances at the iost that thJv were not either stiU Wet or hard frozen. xChideed™ iem r^'^ir'?.^'^"^!^^ discomfort of first patting wet in L n'' '^^^' f *^^7 ^«'« «^e to be thoroughly Tc^Lll ?r^*^'' ""^t. "" ^^"^ ^er commencing oii ;iourney; while: oil the other hand, it was of vi^ importance to keep dry things for sleepinJTn Be^ •ngaed' fortrBVelfing.Ve breakfasted upZ warm coco! and Ibiscuit, and after stowing the things i£ the Ss and Zmi:^reVeL'ff o^'^ *^^^ ^ --hlTo-ible Srelkd VnTir fii I"^"* """^ -^K^ J^^^^^' ^d \isually "nce^T' ^"'' '! '"'" ''^ ^^^«' according to cir": Ia five days.** notwithstanding their perseverance anr^^ TthT^^J^rf ?.'' they found,V obseSon Tt no^n TM.^.^^T ^'^'^^' ^'^^ ?^ *^« S^^e^ islands,- and Little Kl ST^' '^'""'^ '"PPJ^^^ of provisions we^ depos ted to faU back upon m case of necessity v^^^^^o. In halting early in the morning"^ for the purooses of Zt nff ''T^Ji^T ¥^l^^^P ^^^^« large'tSof ice that offered the least chance of breaking tVoueh o? of coming m contact with other masses, the snJwfr wW was cleaned out ajd the sails rigged as awn^ngsT^. EvI^ Ks «r ^°^?}ediately put on diy stockings and fS boots, after which we set about the necessarv repairs of boate sledges, or clothes.'and after serving thJpSoM for the succeedmg day, we went to suppe?. K of thf one, of real enjoyment^to us ; t^e men told their storiej y andf '^^« '^^^'B VOYAGE. ,oi gotten A regular wa^^S'g^.^^J^'^ wew, werefor: to look out for bears ot fn^ f^ •'^^ <^^ 'eatinff time us.a8weU as to aS to S« 5"^ •'*'* ^'^^^i^^ «P ?oJ^d — man alternately tS tMsllfJ?"*^ °^*^ clotl^reach ^ condudedour^dav^fhp^^^^ We' then fur dresses, lay ^own toS^ift^ ^^^ P«* on our wHich perhaps"' few persoM wL W^ * ^^^^ ^^ comfort Huch circumstances, oSSiS'W^^'^^''^ P'^^^iWe undS \c were somewhat Tnch^S f convenience being, that obWed to stow ralherttlh.^^' '^"^^ ^^ *W^e tie cook and watehC. wl,;?^' "** *"»'«' "f « l»Se S ^ Iheir progress was a^ViT ®"^ *o breakfast. characterrheVshrerfof '•„T'.*^.^^°'" and toilsome occasions a mass of '^slush ^ Th'^^I ^' ^«« ^^ ^^7 ^eighteen inches of 8nowhHnr.''tK®" there was fromTii the crew had to proZd J?^fK^*^t'"^^*««- ^requ^nUy secure a footing an^ ^T ^'^^^^ ^^^ds and kneea *J snail-like prSk fL?° T '^^^'''^ theyma^Zw the latitude of 82° 14' 28'' ^I'^^^f^MreachS^ labour on the 14th. the pro^^f l^^. ^^''^s' unceasing due north, though S ?E^ 7 x. ^''^ * ^^ile and a ha§ traversed, and fen atW w'alt/T ^^^«« ^^^ bef journeys a great part of T)L "^'i ^'^^''^ff n^^de three up the boa^^fourCs!'^! d'Sefe^^^^ "^^ ^^^^'d' hve separate pieces of ice n^fk ft^,"" ^^^^ twenty- Jiours of actual labour JS^"i«w J^^ i®^' ^^^^ eleve^n exertion of tiie wholl' KS^n^"*!.^^ "»««* P^rt the -^ 102 PROORESer OP arctic mSCOTERY. boats and sledges, broke with tbeir weight, and all went thflpough with several of the crew, who with. the sledgei were providentially saved. On the 23td the farthest northerly point was reached, which was about 82° 46'. At noon on the 26th, the weather being clear, the meridian altitude of the sun was obtained, "by which," says Pai-ry, " we found ourselves in latitude 82° 40' 23", so that since our last observation (at midnight on the 22nd) we had lost by drift no less than thirteen and a half miles, for we were now more than three miles to the southward of that observation, though we had certainly travelled between ten and eleven due north in this interval ! Again, we were but one mile to the north of our place at noon on the 21st, though we had estimated our distance made good at twenty-three miles." After encountering every species of fatigue and disheartening obstacles, in peril of their lives almost every hour, -Parry now became convinced that it was hopeless to pursue the journey any further, and he could not even reach the eighty-third parallel ; for after thirty -five days of con- tinuous and most fatiguing drudgery, with half their % resources expended, and the middle of the season arrived, he found that the distance gained in their laborious travelling was lost by the drift and set of the ice with the southerly current, during the period of rest. - After planting their ensigns and pennants on the 26th, and making it a day of rest, on the 27th the return to the southward was commenced. Nothing particular occurred. Lieutenant Ross managed to bring down with his gun a fat she bear, which came to have a look at the boats, and after gormandizing on its flesh, an excess which may be excused considering it was the first fresh meat they had tasted for many a day, spme symptoms of indigestion manifested themselves aniftng the party. On the outward journey very little of animal life was seen. A passing gull, a solitary rotge, two seals, and a couple of flies, were all that their eager eyes could detect. But on their return these became more numerous. On the 8th of August seven or eight narwhals Were seen, and not less than 200 rotges, a flock of these little birds occurring in every hole of water. On the 11th, in latitude 81° 30', the sea was found crowded with shrimps and other sea insects, on which numerous birds were fee numerQua birds w^ere feeding. ^n this day they took their last meal on the -ice, being fifty miles distant from Table Island, having accomplished in fifteen days what had taken them thirty-three to effect PARBT*S FOtTRTH VOYAGE. 103 bjead wm had been dej^^/^^L":' To^af^UiL? nL tfcl I«'"i and tte most northern kno™ O ;n»nnJ^?».»5S;US^ " JhlT'oS^"*r 's'* ""^ly rt««gth iTft to hS tnem up on the rocks. HoweTer, br diit of ireat ..imT ^°V« f^'aged to get the boat^ a^oye the S aC" The distance traversed during this excuraion w«fl kaq ^Strlfr' ""' 5"«™g|-thfSnfa^?? return lor our baggage during the greater narf nf +1,^ journey over the ice, we estimated o^ractu^taveUb^ at 978 geographical, or 1127 statute niiles. ConSdSf our constant exposure to wet cold anrl J^R^^^^^^^S stocWs having^enerally "eei ^LCdinfZXZ for twelve hours out of every twentv-fonr T TJ^ f TprV*: tl '''-t'^f" '■ — Spitzbergen. just as we did in the JTeera. but n?t so eSrW m the season; the object for that year beinrme?elv to find secure winter quarters as far no^tl, as Zible ^Jj I'll 104 PBOOSESS OP ABCTIO DISCOVERY. A V ^ pur^se It would only be necessary to reach Hakluyf's . Headland by the end of June, which would afford ample it!^T.C'V^*°Ti''^^*^® J^^'^ northern lands. espeoiAy about the Seven Islands, where, in aU probability, a securi nook might be found for the ship, and a starting pomt for the proposed expedition, some forty or fifty miles in advance ot the point where the Eecla was before laid up. The winter might be usefully employed in various preparations -. tor the journey, as well as in maghetic^astronomical, and ^ meteorological observations, of high interest in tha^lati- tude. 1 propose that the expedition should leave the^^hio ■ m the course^ of the month of AprU, when the ice would present one haj-d and unbroken surface, over which, as I confidently behave, it would not be difficult to make good * ^tK'?''!^''.^^' ^J^^^'^* »^y exposure to wet, and" "tV probably without snow blindness. At this season, too, .¥ i.! f^^o^ld. probably be stationarf and thus the two^"'^" great difficulties which we forme/ly had to encounter would be entirely obviated. It might form a part of the plan to push out suppKes previously^ to the distance of lUO miles, to be taken up on the way, so as to commence tHe journey comparatively light; and as the intention would be to complete the enterprise in the course of the month of May, before any disruption of the i«9/or any material softemng of the surface had taken plaMsimili supplies might be sent out to the same distance, to meet tne party on their return." The late Sir John Barrow, in his last work, commentinff on this, says, " With all deference to so distinguished! sea-otticer, m possession of so much experience as Sir itdward Farry, there are others who express dislike of sucli a plan; and it is not improbable that many will be disposed to come to the conclusion, that so long as the Orreenland Seas are hampered with ice, so long as floes, and hummocks, and heavy masses, continue to bl formed, so long as a determmed southerly current prevails, so long win any attempt to carry out the plan in question, in like manner faU. No laborious drudgery will ever be able to conquer the opposing progress of the current and the ice. ' iiesides, it can hardly be doubted, this gallant officer wiU admit, on further consideration, that this unusual kind of disgusting and unseamanlike labour, is not precisely such as would be relished by the men; and it may be said, is not exactly fitted for a British man-of-war's-man ; more- over, that iLreguired h is own all-powftrfnl .^j^n^ pl f* t o ^ "iHike It even torerable." Sir John there^e^uggested a somewhat different phm. He recommended t£at tvro ^ PARKY 8 FG^UBTH VOYAGE. . JQff - «maJl ships should be sent in +h^ i ^ * .srestem coa^t of Spftzbe^* e^ wLtf^^ '^JJ^^ along.the inent exists, as far upTS°^ Th2T® i^i'^f ^ -'^^ "^Pedi- tunity of proceedKi^/fi^^^x?^'^'^^^^^ every oppor- the sea was. found to be iSd n^i .J^^PPea^d, and nected, smaU masses nfilt^t ^"^^ "^^ ^^^^'se, disoon- findno diClTvTsamnrtwT? 7^^'^ «^^P« ^o^d dragging ; and L tiiis fe fee iL ^*f ^ ^^<^ /^^ ^«*« Travel, he further says that bpfwJTv. *^"^^.? *^ *^« «o«tJi- 8hip might have sSd nt ? J^ ^e.^^^dcfle of August a wi&outl)uc1SIg a^Lce ?f Yce %^'*^de of «2°. SSiost able to expect that bevnn/fW* ^* ,",^<>t *lien unreason- Pole itsel? ilesLZm t iff "?/ •' "T ^ ^'^ *« *^« jummer months of pemtud^^ of ice. durmg the six twenty.four hours^ SSS 5.w'v *^^.^S^ each of the would, in aUprXbiHK.r*^ *^5 ^2^ ^^ *^e current, ice. ^ probability, destroy and dissipate the Pola^ ^toTXiZS^^?±^'t^^ '0 the Pole-is twe(ty ^eTiTt^n^Ifo?; hot! tV fc*'^^^.^ ^"^^^ much sailing ice to an fl^ti^f^? x ^ ? , e supposition of 'require S mon^b^? *. vf \^^^^^ \° *hat case it would onVpi^^^pobi of tbf r*^" '^u^?l^^ ^ P^t hi« foot token, except perLps that of ¥^nW^^%\T^^''- the situation of ^o otl ratTla^^rT/^^ " "^^^^^* provisions and cSnffor t^entv^^^^^ ^T' of a sea covered near! v Zi^l a^FT^J^^ °*®°' "^ the midst ice, over S these ^r«L.'*f\'^ I^^'''' ^^ floes of . up one sideTa r^a^edl^^^^^^ ^a S^ ^^^^fed, sometimes tiSies across the klf 8 o^wL^i^r^' ^^ «*^^^' «ome. 'Tive fen Iq fe weS hH^^ tkeir situation would to m^e to fuuself a situatio/of S kfud, S r ^ ;) I- Pi ft •r%« r- Id PROQRBBS OP IrOTXO DISCOVERT. mmmmmmm stiU have but a faint idea of the exertions which «ie men mdar Capt IW had to make, and the sufferings aS pmations they had to undergo." un mgs ana Capt. Ptory having ttius" completed his fifth voyage into ™r'*''/'^r fv^^^ **^ ^^^^ ^« commaidfd,^d was second irr the other, it may here be desirable to rive a recapitulation of his services. . w give In 1818 he WM appointed Lieutenant, commanding the " it^^ T' t"T^ '^P' as second t)fficer with hia iSicle, Commtoder John Ross. In 1819, stiU as Lieute9ant, £ ^ ™ appointed to command the Secla, and tolake chige ISf T?""^ ^'^'^ ^xped^tion, on which sendee he ™ OTiployed two years. On the 14th of -Ndvember, 1820 he was promoted to the-rank of Coijimander. ' IM the 19th of December, 1820, the Bedfordean Gold Meda^ of the Bat^ and West Of Englaiid Sociefr^ for the Encouragement of Aj^, ManufactiS-es, and Commerce! w^as unanimously voted to him. On the 30th of December ot that year, he waa appomted to the Fu^, with orders to take command of the expedition to the Arctic Sea. With . the sum of 600 guineas subscribed for the purpose, " the ExDlorer of the Pol^ Sea" waa ailerwa?S^pr^ented r«i fZv T^l. ^^^y embellished with devices emble- 1^1] iL ^J^S^i yoj^ge^. And on the 24th of March, IW^n ''\''^ ^f" presented its freedom to Captam -f any, m a box of oak highly and appropriatelv orna- mented. On tiie 8th of N^veiiber, isfl. Cbtained Ms post-captain's^rank. On the 22nd of November, 1823 he ™ presented with the freedom of the city of Wiiichester! and, on the Ist of December, was appointed actiuff hy^ographef to the Admiralty in the place of Capt S, proceed on another explormg voyage. ^ On the 22nd of November, 1826, Capt. Parrv was for- maUy appomted hvdrographer to the Admiralty, whSi officio he contmuecf to Sold until the 10th of Nolember; \.^ December, 1826, he was voted the freedom of the " STt. ^f J'y^^' "^ testimony of the hi^h sense enter- tailed by the corporation of bis meritorious and enter- pnsmg conduct. ^ ■,}^ ^.?"^» 1827, he once more took the command of hie V^ A\x!^%r-^¥^ ^"^^ another voyage of discovery ^ards the NorthPole. On his retiTin the closed flamed on the 2nd o? November his duties as hydrographer to the Admiralty, which office he held until VeTs^^ of cAPTAnr boss's atocnm totage. ^f^^"^ ^ . 107 May, 1829. Haring received the lonour of knirfithdod. he then resjgoed m fevom- of the present AdSBMn '"^ T'i' "^'•""W Pe™i8.ion Vi. the AdmSr Z." Mail Packet Service then tratiaVerred to theffl^altv CilTAIN JOHH Boss's SECOND VoTiOB, 1829-33 doud which had for ne.ri;ZTje:^XZ\,l7Z' 't fessioual character, endea/oured^witiiout eK to inE the GkjTemment to send him out to H.. P i *° "'™?e ^ge of another ezpediMonT^BoarfVX^j^'f 1 thatU in the soirit^of re.«nchmt,t S!e1?SSct^ Captain Hoss, however, undaunted bv the chillinD- in^if ^nce thus manifested towards his pr^osaJs V ^^^ miralty, stiU. persevered, having devoted Som/ ^L ^ his own funds towards the prosSon ofTh« t ^l he had in view He was fortu'naTen^ugh to meet iith Si^thetKS^St ^fflr^r^j^.*^^ -^ -ppo"- thflf Lil^i 1 , ^^^*^' *^e eminent distiller and ttlsT^^'^^J'^^K''''''^^^''^ l^'O^^- toward the expenses. Captam Eoss thereupon set to wort «m1 J^Jr^hased-^^iriirornoulTLLTr .:>!!.. !y.u''"^^ °^^ «» co^imand his nephew, Commander James Eoss, who had f ,\«jns^*^3*- ■^-j' ^r^-w^f^f^^- 108 PROGRESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVERT. ii been mth tirn on his first Arctic expedition, and had snh. sequent accompanied Parry U dl his C^ef Si ' other oMcers of t£e vessel we/e-Mr. wS Thorn L™^! Abemftr' M'Diarmid surgeon; ThrnJ^sBS/rhS Abemethy, and George Taylor, as Ist, 2nd. and BrJ mates . Alexander Bnmton.and Allan Mmnnes as Ist Id 2^d engmeers ; and nmeteeii petty officers and s^en • malriS^ •a complement in all of 28 men. seamen , maJcmg The Admiralty furnished to'wards the purposes of fTiA expedition a dected boat of sixteen tons. ^cXLiS^! Wem and two boats which had been uied by F?anSh with a stock of books and instruments. ^ ^'ankim, liie vessel being reported ready for sea was visited an^ examined by the late ting of the Frendi™ e Ws of ™ditn aJ;,'^^^.?'^^^^^^ aii'intei.et?S tie mJv S' FnLtf ^ '^- ^^"^ Woolwich on the 23rd of on ^hiTVl.^ ^ P''^5°^ f '^^'^^ ^^^ ^^^-^ machinery oLtriarVer?r.-dr'" ^ ^^^^^^ '^'^' ™ ^^-^ Hanng fieceived much damage to her spars in a sevi^rA tri on'tftrr !? ^^^P'^^^^ settlemSf^Ho LS Sk 5^ Greenland coast, to refit, and sailed again to the northward on the 26th of June. They found afclear s«* and even m the middle of Lancaster ^und and Ba Ws' Strait perceived no traces of ice or snow, except whit 1 peared on the lofty summits of some of the mo^tL^ mUd tTfT*"* ''^i^* ^° ^^ ^^^ weatW ™ BO mUd that the officers dined in the cabin without a firl Tl^lVptst r"y : CAPTAiir boss's second voyage. 109 Tlwy were here muA inoonTenienced uid dela»ea W fo™ and floating ice. . WhUe mountains of icel^ ^,3 SSi"'™ °? "'■^'y »''^''' tt=y -rere often fS toiSf ti^ ^ '?I,'"°«™g themselves to these formidaXma^M ^£muS :t?rsjrrerho"u^':n?.!rtit? Sr.eritn^r'" *"' '*"'" «wk..yrs^^:i . Captain Boss draws a lively picture ^f what a vessel en tri li.-A ^^^ '"? '^ ^^^^' «" «olid M if it were ctS Tnai^w ^? ^?K ^"^'^gi?? these mountains hSKgh a narrow strait by a rapid tide, meeting with the nSse of meats' or r^nd"^^ from eaeh other's priinices hu|eTa^. ments, or rending each other asunder, tSl, losiS thwr former equihbrium, they fall over headling, lift W the sea around m breakers and whirling it in ef dier Vhere is not a moment m which it can be conjectured what wUl thTSt^" m SJ.*^''-^ H ""'IT -l^-h'mry not be me last, ihe attention is troubled to fix on anvthmcr amid such confusion; stiU must it be ah^e ?haTft maf occur. Yet with all this, and it is the hardest task of ^ there u nothing to be acted,-no effort to be mSe i-he must be patient, as if he were unconcerned o^SarVss w& *" ^' ^.'■'i"''^ ^0' *h« f**«. be it wLTmav w^ he cannot influence or avoid " ^' Rx)ceeding southward, Rdss found Brentford Bav abo„f ^Slt "Itth \T^]P'^l ^r^' ^ h« ofloSerable Twfl' 1^ ^**™® ^5 harbours. Landing here the Bntish colours were unfurled, and the ooaaL named after the StAf t "'P'^^'^o'^' ."•« taken^sSn of S tue name of the king. Extensive and commodious har bpurs. named Ports logan. Elizabeth, and EcHnse were discovered and a arge bay. which vi-as called mZC^ fcil«/5' T* ^^ September, the ship had^amS ^ miles of undiscoverea coast. The winter nowVet in with severrty, huge masses of ice began to cC aJ^u^d S; au J ITuit!.??.^ many deg^rees below f^^^ U tL t 1 "'" ^'^.'^ *^^^' % MwinYlhrough the^^ H^h^nl T^*'°° ''?1°^ ^' °°^ nameTon the maps PeS Harbour. The machinery of the steam-engine wL doiJ •% I ■A no PB0GRE8S OF ARCTIC DISCOVEBY. away with, the vessel housed, and every measure that could sad to the comfort of the crew ^opted. They had abun- i^oe of fuel, and provisions that might easily be extended to three years, o On the 9th of January, 1831, they were visited by a itogp tribe of Esquimaux, who were better dressed and cleaner than those more to the nortlK^ard. They dis- played an intimate acquaintance with the situation and bearings of the country over which they had travelled, and two of them drew a very fair sketch of the neighs, bouring ooaats, with which they were familiar; tlda was revised and corrected by a learned ladv named Teriksin, — the females seeming, from this and former in- stances, to have a clear knowledge of the hydrography and geography of the continent, bays, straits, and rivers which they had once traversed. On the 5th of April, Commander Eoss, with Mr. Blanky, the chief mate, and two Esquimaux guides, set out to ex- plore a strait which was reported as lying to the westward, and which it wa« hoped might lead to the western sea. After a tedious and arduous journey, they arrived, on the third day, at a bay facing to the westward, and discovered, further mknd, an extensive lake, called by the natives jNie-tyel-le, whence a broad river flowed .mto the bay. Their guides informed them, however, there was no prospect of a water communication south of tl^eir present position. Capt. Boss then traced the coast fifty 6t sixty miles further south. / Several iourneys were also made by Commander Eoss, both inland and along the bays and inlets. On the 1st of May, from the top of a high hill, jhe observed a largo inlet which seemed to lead to the western sea. In order to satisfy himself on this point, he set out again on the 17th of May, with provisions for three weeks, eight dogs, and three companions. Having crossed the great middle lake of the isthmus, he ranched his former station, and thence traced an inlet which was found to be the mouth of a river named by them Garry. From the hiffh hiU they observed a^BJ^am of lakes leading almost to Thom's Bay, the Vtcto/y'sjRtAiAon in Felix Harbour. Proceeding north- west aloiig the coast, thoy crossed the frozen surface of ^e strait which has since been named after Sir Jamei Sobs, and came to a large island which wm called Matty; keeping along its northern shore, and passing over a n a rrow sty a if , , wlijoh th o y ""^ m e d after W oUingtou, they mmmmmm CAPTAIN Ross's SECOND VOYAGE. Hi iir^tCi.. ^TH^^ embarraaamentg waa how to dis- +!!^^:^^*^'^^,^^®"*P'o^ioM began to fall ahort. anS ihl^T^ of makmg as much western discovery as possible ^erefore, depositing everything that could ^b^Cnsed with, he pushed on on the 28th: with only four S pro- fe^Q'? ^«f ^^f to^y.^BituateS in lat. 64° 46' 19'^ong a^owance of food, and more tin 2oS miles tXve^f there could not be a moment's hesitation in adoptbg £ S^^iiict ^^a"^''\ i '^'''' ""^ ^^««*«d before iSfvi^ Thn Z^ deoosited a narrative of their proceedin Js ' The party endured much fatigue and sutfeVinv on ?heir returnjoumey ; of the eight dogi'only two sund^J^V^d the bZhood VtCf ^^7f ^ «tate a„i,,a ii^tS'eligh! fh^I ?1 X*, l*r^ ^^^«8 o»» the 8th of June where Sfil^o^w'P;^^^'^'r4 «^PP"«d them plentifully journey ii^d ^^^"^ 'I * i?*^ ' ^^''^ t*^*'^ ''^^'^ed tho^ journey, and reaohedthe ship on the 13th. Capt Eoss in the meanwhile had made a pkrtial survey of thrisSimu^ , h^lZ:me. '"'"^" ""«' '^'' "*^^^ ^« tn'ef S After eleven, montha' SeL^dZ^i;**^-^T'^-* ^'^ ^« waVerhavinrS iweased from her ley barrier on the 17th of September, v*. 112 PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERT. but for the next few days made but little progresB, teW beaten about among tEe -icebergs, and driven hither and tnither by the currents. ^ ♦ xi.\o^j°?® ^^ *^® weather, however, took place, and on the 2drd the;y were once more frozen in, the sea in a week after exhibitmg one clear unbroken surface. All October , was passed m cuttmg through the ice into a inore secure locahty, and another dreary winter having set in, it became necessary to reduce the |llQwance of provisions. This , winter.was one of unparalfeled severity, the thermometer Jailing 92 below freezmg point. During the ensuing spring a variety of exploratory journeys were carried on, and in one of these Commander Eoss succeeded in planting the British flag on the North Magnetic Pole. The positioS which had been usuaUy assigned to this interesting spot oJ w ^®f^®i ^^ Europe, was lat. 70° N., and long. 98° dO W. ; but Ross, by careful observations, determined it to he m lat. 70° 5' 17''N., and long, 96"^ 46' 45" W., to the southward of Cape Nikolai, pn the western shore .of iioothia. Btit it has since been found that the centre of magnetic mtensity is a moveable point revolvin/within the frigid zone. - - , " The place of the observatory," Ross remarks, " was as near to the magnetic pole as the limited means which I possessed enabled me to determine. The amount of the dip, as indicated by my dipping-needle, was 89° 59', being .thus withm one minute of the vertical ; while the prox- imity at least of this pole, if not its actupl existence where we stood, was ftirther confirmed by 'the action, or rather by the total inaction, of the several horizontal needles then m my possession." Parry's observations placed it eleven minutes distant only from the site determined by Ross. 'As soon," continues Ross, "as I had satisfied my own miQd on the subject, I made knovfe to the party this gratiTying result of all our joint labours ; and it was then that, amidst mutual congratulations, we fixed the British fla^ on tlie spot, (ind took possession of the North Mag- netic Pole and its adjoining territoryin the name of Great Britain and King WilUam IV. We had abundance of materials for buildmg in the fragments of limestone that covered the beach, and we therefore erected a cairn of some magnitude, under which we buried a canister con- f?!f!"^^ ^r^f2!l fif ^^^ "^tereating fact, only regretting that vuriiiul na? tLT--„- Tf "'^1„ '. °-^ rep^ttmg ^Mm. -ftrr^vofk not tlxe muans or ooMtMloting a pyfiuffia of more importanoe, and of •trength sufficient to with- stand the assaults of time and of the Esquimaux. Had, •t- OAPTAIH Koss'g SECOND TOVAGE. HJ the Victorv out L^Vhl' ' ^^^^ contnved to warp On. the previous occaaion their naviirafmr. %..A u three miles; this year it exteS f!^? ml- ^^^ ^oted detention L the i^m^l\i^- ^'''^' ^^^ Pw- one of great dange?,md peril a! It^"" ?'««««* Position •pectof extncatinlr Sv^es^i ttr-^T^^^'^^^ ^« P^^" of abandoninff her InT^T ' Tu ^^^olution was come to the' inlet r&' 3^1^^ J^ ^t?^ ^^'^ ^^J «P boats, provision? ^d «wf tJ? r^*^ tiiemielves oj the reachin|DavTstra1?s wW^ J' ''^ •''??^^ *'«^^^ i^ with onl of the wSe sh^r ^ °"^^* "^P"'* *^ ^^ ^^ ging their proviSs S £ateTe^*rv 'f ""*' ^"'^; niffffed ice. " The InnHTi;.,^ I^ I^ ^ ^^* expanse of and even oftener, the swnf d«; tJ "P"*.™^""^ twice, dreadful temnestaof Min^tj j^« ^P '^ *o encounter was, that bv the 12tli n^Mowi, v j 1 ^*^<^ general result to gain tSty in a d W J *^I H traveled 329 mUes penned a month^ /Zliht^' v'^''^ '^ ^^^« ^^bour ex- bade a farewelAo tfT.^r f.i P'^^™"'^ movement, they the mast Capt sit 1«^ ^,^"§ her coloirs Z this bein> tBwt vesselT hfi'r'""^?,-^""^^^^ ^««<«d; of thirtyrsix in whiThi \J^ ^T^ ""^^'^^^ *« ''^^^on forty-tw^o yea«. On the Ijh o7\'^ ^" n"^ *^" *T^«« ^^^ ^^:^e£i^4Sr^ porting that they had found thr^ J*u u /"°^' Z^" away, but enouffh still ^?A tbree of the boat* washed the provisions Zi„„^V'''iv"' P^r^^^^' '"^ 'JI ■Ml ^ iu P&OQRESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVERY. -^ ihejr. set out, and after much buffeting among the ioe in JJeir fraU shallops, reached i^e mouth of^e inlet bv the* end of August, r After sereral fruitless attempts to ran along Barrow's- Strait, the obstructions of the ice obliged ttiem to haul the boats on shore, and pitch their tents. Barrow's Strait was found, from repeated surveTi !^i .^ ^?u • ^penetrable mass of ice. After lingering h^r^ tili the third week m Septeniber, it was unanimously agreed th^ the^ only -resource was to fell back again onthe toes at ±ury±{each, and there spend their fourth- winter. They were only able to get half the distance in the boats, which were haiXled on shore in Batty Bay oh the 24th of • fcjeptember, and the rest of theii* journey continued on foot the provisions being dragged on sledges. On the 7th of, Mctober they once more'reached- their home at the soeno^" ot the wre l^'J i^!Lf TJ^" ^^^ *^- men more hurriedly and^^i^ ? "». siffJit, and never did ■ elements consS^i^^f'f rf^^*^'^*^^. ^* out ; but the calms and curSf i^hJ'T' *^' ^^S baffled by , leave them wkh a f A^*l ^^. ^TJ ^-"^^ '^' «^P overteke her. or make Sek^ tSf ^*r?"''^t^ *^ 'later, however, their desnnirw!! r :.• , ^ ^^^ bours another vessel Vhtchte™^^^ hard rowinff they wer^ A^44 * °*^- By dint of Boon came up Si W- ^ ^^ J^?"^. fortunate, and of Hull, the ve^ shitf^-; w^?^•S^ *? ^^ **»« ^^-^''^a, voya^eto thel^eas ^, J^'%^« ^^^ made his firsi tiaily of his own death If^^'"'' ™^ ^1^ circumsta^- bad s,^e dmSihyi^',omil^nJT be and bis partv wLn nnttS"? A?'? *^* >* ^as really waa the joy w4 thich tW ^^*^«"»- ^o great Jr«i6.;fe m^nld he^ y^B S^^T"^ J^^^^< *i^»t^the and his gallant ba^d If^^^t ^*' ^^''^^^^ commander three he^ty cheeS ^*<^^«»*^er8 were saJuted with be.describe3;tTof^ e^v^id'^S'tr ^'^ ' assistmff and comfAr#,*«™ +1 . ° ^*b the other -in be^.i.l/thri;^:S?J^^^^^^^ -^ i*--ot bette" in.4b%'?^n.rdTitnt^^^ . was impossible, while the n^whuov^r^f"^ *^°".^^* made us abundajitly wSina to^ ?"®y*"<7 of our spirit, which now opened. ^W^mS. tjf""'^^ ^^ **»« «^»« be fed; all iTere rair^d 7^^^ ^ ^V'^^V' »»d ^m to w«i not one to wX^wiLSi::^^ ^, be cTothed ; there . one whom his bear? JST^T"''®* "^dispensable, nor blanoe. ^ eve^l^ Vt^rb^^*^' ^T*" «^- was wa^hin^.. dressinTVa^^^^^ It was all the mfLtoriu]mZp ^\.'^\ *T latormingled : in the midst ofTS^^l'^^^^^ tbe neweThich ^rnrFo':;;^^" "'^^^"^^' "^^ 1 2 116 PROGRESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVERT. I';J "But all subsided into peace at last. The sick were accommodated, the seamen disposed of, and all was done for us which care and kindness coiild perftMtai. " JJight at length brought quiet and serious tiboughts, and I trust there was not a man among(U8 who did not then express, where it was due, his gratitude for that interposition which had raised us all from a despaif which none.could now forget, and had brought us from the very borders of a most distant grave, to life and friends and civilization. Long accustomed, however^ to a cold bed on the hard snow or the bare rock, few coifld sleep amid tlie' comfort of our new accommodations. I was myself com- pelled to leave the bed which had been kindly assigned me, and take my al^de in a chair for the night, nor did it fare much better with the rest. It was for time to reconcile us to this sudden and violent change, to break through what had become habit, and to inuj-e us once more to the usages of our former days." The Isabella remained some time longer to prosecute the fisherj^.and left Davis Strait on her homeward Sassage on the 30th. of September. On the 12th of ►ctober they made the Orkney Islands, and arrived at Hull on the 18th. The bold explorer?,- who had long been ' given up as lost, were looked upon as men risen from the rave, and met and escorted by crowds of sympathizers, public entertainment was given to them by the towns- people, at which the freedom of the town was presented to Captain Eoss, and next day he left for London, to report his arrival to the Admiralty, and was honoured by a presentation to the king at Windsor. The Admiralty liberally rewarded all the parties, except' mdeed Captain Koss. Comnlander J. C. Ross was appointed to the guardship at Portsmouth to complete his neriod of service, and then received his post rank. Mr. Thom the purser, Mr. M'Diarmid, the surgeon, and the petty officers, were appointed to good situations in the naW The seamen received the usual double pay given to Arctic explorers, up to the time of leaving their ship, and full pay from that date until their arrival in England. A committee of the House of Commons took up the case of Captain Eoss early in the session of 1834, and on their recommendation 6000/. was granted him as a- remuneration for his pecuniary outlay and privations. A baronetcy, on the recommendation of the same com- P llttPP. Wfl B als o COnf a Wflfi h g h i n "M"B.mn < . ir 'TO'ilUmw* TIT — ZT-^ -niTi- «wMieitvu' try' ttltr -xHtajeovy TT UUSQi Jt » • on Mr. Felix Booth. In looking back on thereBults of this voyage, no impar ,**. ■ft - ■ I ^ CAWAIl, BOSSV SECOSD VOTAOE. UJ Boothia to be a peninsX «„/' 5^^ *^ -^T*', Proving SersoT. in II,. magnetic pole. He wM afio the onlv Vnn «„i ^•'^ p , mstory, and botany. Out of ahmit been since sho™ t» be bc^ct C^^^^'Z,}"" » a diffennoe in the Wef Zh1» fr.c^"''''^ *''«" mmder. and was posted on the 7th of iKnW ISlS' W Tr"^! 'Companion of the Bath 07(^2 ™oKm' a L^fli ' rSf'S Commander of the Sword of SwedS a Kmght of the Second Class of St. Anne of Prn^Rri. ^' fed'tel^ Sf ' ?f «>« legion of" Hon^rd'S ■ B.»»- J .1^'° *? P™«na, and of Leopold of Belmnin B eceiTed the royal premimn frnm t h. 0.°^° vT. ■fS'^J?'- ~t)f". -^^^rr^ . - ^5^ « ^v Geographical gow6 ^ me feSl^ f?"!?' '™ ?/ Swef nfAnstri.. J,SdI.^: Ibe freedom of the cities of London, Liverpool, and • pr jafeai^BafcMaitai&Ea^> ^ 118 PKOORESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVERY. i ^^i «f gold j^mjff.boxes from Russia, Holland, Den- mark, Austria LonHon, and Baden ; "a sword valued at IOC guineas froji the Patriotic Fund; for his sufferings, having been wounded thirteen times in three different aetidnl during the war; and one of t^e valup of 200^. from the sl^ n l^^u^/\^'^\^^ in the .Baltic and the White Sea. On the 8th of March, 1839, he Was appointed to the lucrative post of British consul at Stbckhohn, which he neld for six years. Captain Back s Land Jouenet, 1835—1835. Four yeM-s having elap«>d without any tidings beinff received of Capt. Eoss andhis crew, it began to be generaUy femd m Ei^land that they had been added to the number J^^J^^r sufferers, in the prosecution of their arduous un- Dr. Richardson, who had himself undergone such frieht- Jul perils inth,e Arctic regions with franklin, was the first to call pubhc attention to the subject, in a letter to the treographical Society, in which he suggested a project for rehevmg them, if stiU alive and to b? found; U at the same time volunteered his services to the Goloiiial Secre- jfiS ^^' *® conduct an exploring party. Although the expedition of Captain Ross was not under- taken under the auspices of the Government, it became a national concern to ascertain the ultimate fate of it, and to make some effort for the relief of the party, whose home at that time might be the boisterous sea, or whose shelter ij!!«'"''J.^''* **'' *h ^""^S?^ ^°^^«^flf- ^^' Richardson proposed to proceed from Hudson's Bay, in a north-west direction to Coronation Gulf, where he was to commence his seajoh m an easterly direction. Passing to the north, ^ong the eastern side of this gulf, he would arrive at -romt l"urnagam, the eastern point of his own former dis- covery. Havmg accomplished this, he would continue his search towaids the eastward until he reached MelViUe island, thus perfecting geographical discovery in that quarter, and a continued coast line might be laid down from the Fury and Hecla Strait to Beechey Point, leaving only Jlie small spa^e between Franklin's discovery and that ot the Blosgom unexplored. The proposal was favour- ably received ; but owing to the political state of the oountry at that time, the offer wa s not nccepted. _ :a_ffieetmg washeldln November, 1832, at the rooms of the Horticultural Society, in Regent-street, to obtain ftrnds* CAPTAW BACK^ JiAKD JOURNBY. -^119 ^khn; but If we wished to crLe fftui^^^ and sight of hi3 countrymen is not forgotten that IIa.« ?f consideration for his «7iff*««r,^ ^ ' . . ***®'® ^^ SDirit ThiT Jfll r ^^^f "»g8. and appreciat on of his spmt. II118 reflection will cheer him in the hour of IrvjJ and will permit Wm, when surronnS it it <>* twal, W he j^ty, and his s.mcea werf ™Lted 1 Ih -After an interview with the kine at BnVhfnr, *« i.- v he was spec allv summon pH pL^f § i. ^ ^'^' *® ^^^®^ gnmted him acommiMiin in tCir ,e^ce IniZn^T^'"^ 7:zz^,^ -^^-^ th„5oTnHTi.'^Sr^ Everjthmg being definitively arrano-prl r«««+ -o i accompanied bv Dr 3ii>K»i.y^ arranged, Capt. Back, after a stoL; ^1 J^"^ of t^^^^^^ *"^^^4 ^ ^°»«"^« .*'*' 120 PROGRESS OP ABCnO DISCOYEBT. tt llll!i jomed Imn. and some voyageuw having been engaged, the party left, in two canoes, on the 25th of April? Two of ^sparty deserted from him in the Ottawa mer On the 28th of June, having obtained his complement ot men, he may be said to have commenced his journey. They suffered dreadfully from myriads of sand-flies and musqmtoes, bemg so disfigured by their attacks that thett features could be scarcely recognised. Horse-flies, appropriately styled "buU dogs," were another dreadful pest, which pertinaciously gorged themselves like the leech, until they seemed ready to burst. "It is in vain to attempt to defend yourself against these puny Woodsuckers ; though you crush thousands of them, tens oPthousands arise to revenge the death of their companions, and you very soon discover that the conflict wHich you -are waging is one in which you are sure to be deteated. So great at last are the pains and fatigue in bufletmg away this attacking force, that in despauryou throw yourself, half sufibcated, in a blanket, wfth your iace upon the ground, and snatch a few minutes of sleep- less rest, Captam Back addslhat the vigorous and unin- termitting assaults of these tormenting pests conveyed the moral lesson of man's helplessness, smce, with aU our boasted strength, we are unable to repel these feeble atoms of creation. " How," he says, " can I possibly give an Idea of the torment we endured from the sand-flies P As we dived mto the confined and sufibcating chasms, or waded through the close swamps, they rose in clouds, actu^y #kenmg the air; to see or to speak wa^ equaUy d^cult, for they rushed at every undefended part, and^xed their poisonous fangs in an instant. Our faces streamed with blood, as if leeches had been applied and there was a burning and irritatmg pain, followed by immediate inflammation, and producing giddiness, which almost drove us mad, and caused us to moan with pain and agony." *^ f^A ^^^ ?h Vorta^e Captain Back en4ged the services 01 A. K. McLeod, m the employ of the. Hudson's Bay Company, and who had been fixed upgn % Governor < »impson, to aid the expedition. He was^companiod by * hi8_ wife, three children, and a servant; and had just returned from the Mackenzie Eiver. with a large carga of furs. The whole family were attached to the party/ and after some detentions of a general and unimportant cha- -imctftr, t i h p y nrnvcd at Fort ^' '^— — - — -^ — '-^^ July. FortEesointion, on^GreltFaveMe, was readied on the 8th of August. vffliuuiTyan ' eat iSlave Lai kiliiH^ it^^^ mmmm CAPTAIN back's LAND JOURNEY. 121 The odd assemblage of goods and vovaffenrs \n th^i..^., buffalo, fancifuUy ornamented with long blacC hairs whch twe^nSKeeT ^"'"S'r >^^^^^^ wifl if tt^' ^^•T^'^ laboriously masticate the touffh ^ff^^'h V?^"" * tolerably clean napkin, spread bvTv of table-cloth, on a red piece of canvas, aj support tea-pot, some biscuits, and a salt-cellar • near SiTa « ?i« plate, close by a square kind of box o^kfeTf tWgam^ ^ W at "b^/w ' P^%^,«*7 J^--, the produce of S: colony at Eed Eiver; and the last the far-renowned r,^, mca^, unquestionably the best food of tfe Srf for expeditions such as ours. Behind me were twS Yo^p^ contammg asteonomical instruments, aad a sextrnt IvW ™ L^nTdV^^* ^ different 'corSerotthetni Th^Ll ^^ ^^ay^ashing apparatus, a gu^ an Indian shot-pouch, bags ba^ms, and m unhappy-lookSg iap^ned pot, whos6 melancholy bumps and^'gollows feS ?o reproach me for many a bruise endured upon thTrocks and portages between Montreal and Lake wCipeck No? were my crew less motley than the fumitu^o? the tent It consisted of an Englishman, a iftaa from StornawTv two Canadians, two Metift or half-breds, and thrTe IS quois Lidians. Babel could not have produced a wo^I Havmg obtained at Fort Eesolution aU possible infor mation. from the liidiansand others, relative rthe course dfvl/v"*^"'^ "?'l°^ ^^"^^^ ^« ™ in search bl divided his crew mto two parties, five of whom were left as an escort for Mr. McLeoi and four wer^to Tcc^mLnt himself m search of the Great Fish RiT^r si^ce auor/ pnatelv named after Back himself ^^'^^' Vr?S ^- ^^*^ l^ ^""S"'* *^^y ^^S^ the aacent of the Hoar rZuA ^^I'a''^''^'^ ^^^L«^ ^*« ^ «e^i«« of the most feS-f^ ej8cades>alid rapids. The woods here were so tS^ IX fi *^T- S^^^* .i^'Pervious, consisting ch» Sf Btunted firs, which occasioned infinite trouble to the p^ to force their way through; added to which, they hK ■^.^n,nr^"^-1'^i^^?^,^¥ ^gh rivijets. a^ doTitg^^, \ t A '..■/'> ■'if 122 PROGRESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVEBT. persevering explorers would have turned away discom- fited, and cHeering on his men, hke a bold and gallant leader, the first in the advance of danger, they arrived at length in an open space, where theyrested for awhile to recruit their exhausted strength. The ^lace was, indeed, one of barrenness and desolation ; crag was piled upon crag to the height of 2000 feet from the base, and the course oT the river here, in' a state of contraction, was marked by an uninterrupted line of foam. However great the beauty of the scenery may. be,' and however resoluti^mav be the will, severe toil will at length relax the spirits, ana bring a kind of despondency upon a heart naturally bold and undaunted. This was found parti^aj^lj^.the case now with the interpreter, who became a d^d Wf^ht upon the party. Eapid now succeeded rapicPlfcJ^cely had they surmounted one fall than an- other pires^nted itself, rising like an amphitheafcbe before thfji^^to -\he height of fifty feet. They, however, gained at length thd hscentof this turbulent and unfriendly river, the romantic beauty and wijd scenery of which were strikingly grand, and after passing successively a series of portages, jApida, falls, lakes, and riverS, on the 27th Baek observed from the summjyt qf a high hill a very large lake full of deep blys and islands, and which has been named Aylmer LaKe, after the Governor- General of Canada at that fimc.^ "The boat was sent out with three men to search J^Htho lake, or outlet of the river, Vhich they disco^ea on the second day, and- Captain Sack hipaself, dijftng their absence, also accident- ally discovered its souaie in the Sand Hill Lake, not far from his encamppaent|f^Not prouder was Bni,ce when he stood ' on the green^sod which covers the source of the Nile, than was Capfein Back when he found that he was standing at the sotirce of a river, the existence of whi h was known, but the course of which was a proble m no traveller had yet ventured to solve. Yielding to tha pleasurable emotion whk)h discoverers, in the first bound of their transport, may be pardoned for indulging, Back tells us he threw himself down on the bank and drimk A hearty draught of the limpid water. "Iror this occasion," he adds, "I had reserved ft little grog, and need hardly say with what cheerfulneM ft Wi $ s ba red am o ng s t the, ^rew^whog ig ! welcome tidiag i '. liad verified the notion of Br. Bichardson and mysplf. »nd ttius placed beyond doubt the existence of the Thlew-ee- dioh.^or Great Fish Biver." On the 30th of August they began to moVc towards the ^*Pi • - fSf^- f^ \ f It^ v'-^-B^^'ftff^ K^ CAPTAIN BACK'iS lAND JOURNEY. 123 aiWe to stand the force of the rapids in their-fraa canoe A ^ °Si • X ^^ ^^ determined on. ftom S« rX?«f^A w? J''^^ 80iri« Indians visited thorn the^dp «f ^•'^?1'^^ ''^?..'^ ^^ ^« remembered was tne guide of Sir John Franklin. Two of thesp Tnrlm^a remembered Captam Back, one iiavS^'^accomp:^^^^^ to the Coppermme E rer on Frankl&lfirst ex^dftion At the Cat or ArtiUery Lake they had to abaS^n their cmoe,^^and perform the rest of the journey 0^00° ove^ precipitous rocks, through frightiW go^e^Sd rarin^s S:i^tT'''"^iFrK^^ afonlnarSr^'Sges; wnere a false step would have been fatal. ^ their aW^ the partyfound Mr. McLeod had. during resSenL Jo^'tW*"^ the frame-work of a comfortablo nlete ?f Aft^^' "^^^^ ^'^^^ ««* ^ ^^^k to com- Inished "^"^^ ''^''**^^*' ^^ difficuHries, it was tw?Iad^XC' ''''" '" *^^ ''*^ "' ^'^P*^"^^- -«^ wf r*"®*?*^ of November they exchanged their cold tents for th«r new house, which was fift/feet long bv M L rAr.^ '"^**r^ fourroo9)8. bedsides a spafioS afiV^ t*»e centre, for he reception and acoomm^Kiatioii attached • ** * '^^ ^^ "^^ ^*^1»«^ ™ As the winter advanced bands of starving Indians con- tanued to arrivt. in the hope of obtaining some rXf m httle or nothmg was to be procured b/hunting They meals, watchmg every mouthful ^th the most Win/ miploring look, but yet never uttering a complaint Atother times thej Mould, seated round the fire, occupy themselves in roastmc and devouring smaU bits of their remdeer garments, wto. even when entire, afforded AJ^^VA^^''''?'?iJr^^^ ^''^''^^ ** ^^^ period W described as fngh^ "Famine with her |aunt and withered their energies, and strewed them lifeless oa th^ rdief out of tiieir scanty store to all. but even smaU • portions of the mouldy pemmican intended for the don. unpalatable as it was. was gladly received, and saved maS^ from perishing. " Often." adds Back, - did I fihare my owi ^an^sH^^ ■qpnippiiiMiPi 124 FBOGRESS OF ARCTIO DISCOVEBT. ]!!:!' '■fl "I l^ plate with the children, whose helpless state and piteous cries were peculiarly distressing ; compassion for the foil grown may, or may not, be felt, but that heart must be ' cased in steel which is insensible to the cry of a child for fooi" At this critical juncture, Akaitcho made his appearance with an opportune supply of a Uttie meat, which in some measure enabled Captain Back to relieve the sufferers around him, many of whom, to his great delight, went away with Akaitcho. The stock of meat was soon exhausted, and they had to open their pemmican. The officers contented themselves with the short supply of half a pound a day, but the labouring men could not do with less than a pound and three quarters. The cold now set in with an mtensity which Captain Back had never before experienced, — the thermometer on the 17th of January being 70° below zero. " Such indeed, (he says,) was the abstraction of heat, that with eight large logs of dry wood on the fire I could not get the thermometer higher than 12° below zero. Ink and paint froze. Ihe sextant cases apd boxes of seasoned wood, principally fir, all split. The skin of the hands became dry, cracked and opened into unsightly and smarting gashes, which we were obliged . to anoint with grease. On one occasion, after washing my face within three feet of the fire, my hair was actually clotted with ice before I had time to - dry it." The hunters suffered severely from the intensity of the oold, and compared the sensation of handling their guns to that of touchmg red-hot iron, and so excessive was the pain, that they were obliged to wrap thongs of leather round the triggers to keep their fingers from coming into * contact with the steel. The sufferings which the party now endured were great, _an4 had it not been for the exemplary conduct of Akaitcho m procuring them game, it is to be doubted whether any would have survived to tell the misery they had en- dure^. The sentiments of this worthy savage were nobly expressed — " The great ohi^f trusts in us, and it is better that ten Indians perish than that one white man should parish through our negligence and breach of faith." ,0n the 14th of February Mr. McLeod and his family removed to a place half-way between the fort and the in procuring food by hunting. His situation, however, becamc^oon one of the greatest embarrassment, he and his'iinmly being surrounded by difficulties, privations, and f. 4 CAPTAIN BACK*J3 LAND JOURNEY. 125 ik||fch8. Six of the natives near him sank under the horrors ofitarvation, and Ataitcho and his hunters were twelve days* march distant. Towards the end of April Capt. Back began to make aiyam^ements for constructinff boats for prosecuting the expedition once more, and while so employed, on the 25tlr a mes^nger arrived with the gratifying intelligence that" Capt. Koss had arrived safely in England, confirmation of which was afforded in extracts from the Timea and Hei'ald, and letters from, the long-lost adventurers themselves. Iheir feelings at these glad tidings are thus, described i— • • In the fubiess of our hearts we assembled together, and humbljr offered up our thanks to that merciful R-ovidence, who m the beautiful language of scripture hath said, Mme owii will I brmg i^jn. as I did sometime from the deeps of the sea.' The thought of so wonderful a preserva- r?° **^^^wered for a time the common occurrences of hfe. vramjlust sat down to breakfast ; but our appetite wasgon^BKthe day was passed in a feverish state of J^cit^TJPPSeldom, indeed, did mv friend Mr. King or 1 mduip in a .libation, but on this joyful occasion economy was, forgotten ; a treat was given to the men, and for ourselves the social sympathies were quickened by a generous bowl of punch." Capt. Back's former inter- preter, Augustus, hearing that he was in the country, set out on foot from Hudson's Bay to join, him, but getting separated from his two companions, the gallant little fellow was either exhausted by^ufferiiig and privations, or, caught in the midst of an open traverse in one of those terrible snow storms which may be said to blow abnost through the frame, he had sunk to rise no more, his bleached remains being discovered not far from the llivi^e a Jean. •• Such," says Capt. Back, " was the miserable end of poor Augustus, a faithful, disinterested, kind-hearted creature, who had won the regard, not of myself only, but I may add* of Sir J. Franklin and Dr. Richardson also, by qualities which, wherever found, in the lowest as in the highest forms of social life, are the ornament and charm of' humanity." 9'^j *!?? t^^ ^^ '^^°®' *^^ *^® preparations bemg com. ^ i J ' ^^^^^ having been previously sent on to hunt, «jd deposft casks of meat at various stages. Back set out y*i-.. J^'^g. accompanied by four voyageurs and an Ludiau guider^l^ stores ^noTrequlredw^ buried, ani the doors and windows of the house blocked up. At Artillerv Lake, Back picked up the remainder of hii pw^, with the carpenters who had been employed pre- ► I ■B^^HI 1 1 ilil 126 PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY. paring boats. The lightest and best was chosen and placea on runners plated with iron, and in this manner she was ,drawn over the ice by two men and six fine dogs. The eastern shore of the lake was followed* as it was found less rocw and precipitous than the opposite one. The march was prosecuted bv ni^t, the air beiog more fresh and 'pleasant, and tne party took rest in the day. The glare of iiie ice, the difficulty encountered in getting the boat along, the ice being so bad that the spikes of the. runners cut through instead of sliding over it, and the thick sno^ which fell in June, greatly increased the labour of getting along. The cx)ld raw windipierced through them ,in sptte of cloaks and blankets. After being caulked, the boat was launched on the 14th of June, the. lake being sufficiently unobstructed to admit of her being towed along shore. The weather now became exceedinglv unpleasant — ^hail, snow, and rain pelted them one after the other for some time without respite, and them . only yielded to soualls that overturned the boat. With alte^-nate spells and baitings to rest, they however gradutdly advanced on the traverse, and were relilly making consi- derable progress when pelting showers of sleet and drift so dimmed and confused the sight, darkening the atmo^ sphere, and hmiting their view tojanly a few paces before them, t» to reilddl it an extremely perplexing task to keep their course, . On the 23rd of June they fortunately fell in with a cache made for them by their avante-courier, Mr. McLeod, in which was a seasonable supply of deer and musk-ox flesh, the latter, however, so impregnated with the odour from which it takes its name, thaj the men declared thev would rather starve three days thatn swallow- «, mouthml of it. To remove this unfavourable impression Capt. Back ordered the daily rations to be served from it for his own mess as well as theirs, takingoocasion-atjthe same time to impress on' their minds the injurious consequences of voluntary abstinence, and the necessity of accommodating their tastes to such food as the country might supply. • Soon after another cache waa met with, thus malcmg eleven animals in all that had been Ihus obtained and secured for them bv the kind care^ of Mr. McLeod. On the 27th they reached Sand HUl Bay, where they fbund Mr. McLeOd encamped. On the 28th the boat beinjif too frail to be dragged oyer the pdrtiige, about a engulf tl» only be oyercomrw Vv. i"^ '^''" difflcultilB could AeUriSLttS "'"'^ P-eve.»ce. »d man, tor she was very much o^it nf li^nUk " ^t?^*'^^^*"© tabe and *,th that cOnBgioiuneM whiot b4lo"S to aU SSKed^tSi^ no Ja.3!^,l:S -Mr. McLeod Waa now gent back taJcino- wif», l,iw. *-l • prefer that C.Mufi"'''^^^'^?' ^^"^^ '""^ «« mW- ' g^^ttetno^^^rz^/rc.l^^S';^^^ too* notbjBp: of. flo al,o warned hfm against the treS^ ?.'''"''.''3l^!*^ *?*»' ''" '"-,."^s^'?i':-'Tr';j^'r"''«=''=*'^.;"-'».'' ■»-*,t^ffpp'^^ PBHI 130 PKOGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY. ■■■(^.: high wag named Cape Beaufort, after the present hydro- grapher to tj^e Admiralty. A bluff point on the eastern side • ot the estuary, which he considered to be the northern •extreme, he named Cape Hay. Dean and Simpson, how- eter, in 1SS9, tfaced the shore much beyond this. The difficulties met witOi here began to dispirit the men. For a week or ten days they had a continuation of wet, chmy, foggy weaflier, and the only vegetation, fern and moss, was so wet tftiat it would not bum; being thus ■ ^without iuel, during this time they had but one hot meal. Almost without water, without any means of warmth, or any kind of warm or comforting food, sinking knee-deep. astW proceeded on land, in the s^t slush and snow, no wonddi- that some of the best men, benumbed in their limbs and dispirited by the dreary and unpromising pro- spect before them, broke out for a moment, in low mur- . murmgs, that l^irs was a hard and painful duty. ^ Ctcptam Back found it utterly impossible to proceed, as he had intended, to the Point Tumagain of Franklin, and after vamlyctesaying a land expedition by three of the best walkers, and these having returned, after making but nfteen miles' way, in consequence of the heavy rains and the swampy nature of the ground, he came to the resolu- tion of returning. Baflecting. he says, on the long and dangerous stream they had to ascend, «ombining all the bad features of the worst rivers in the country, the hazard ■ of the falls and rapids, and the slender hope which re- • mamed of their attaining eve^ a single mile further, he telt he had no choice. Assembling, therefore, the men around him, and unfurling the British flag, which was saluted with three cheers, he announced to them this . determination. The latitude of this place was 68° 18' 57" N and longitude 94° 58' 1" W. The extreme point seen to' the northward on the western side of the estuary, in lati- gide 68° 46' N., lon^tude 96° 20' W., Back naiied Cape * r^j 1°^' spirits of many of the men, whose heajth had suffered peatly for want of warm and nourishing food, now brigfhtened, and they set to work with alacrity to prepare for then* return journey. The boat being dragged ^oss^as brought to the place of their former station, ' after which the crew went back four miles for their t'ftggage. The whole was safely conveyed over before the evening, when the water-casks were broken up to make a "^0 ^o^a™ a kettle of cocoa, the second hot meal they i-^K left V PROORESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY. on the 8th of September, aflber an absence of two years and a half. Back was honoured with an andience of his Majesty, who expressed his approbation of his efforts- first in the cause of humanity, and next in that of geo- paphical and scientiiSc research. He Jias since been knighted ; and in 1835, the Boyal Greo^aphical Society awarded him their gold medal (the Eoyal premium) for his discovery of the Great Fish Aiver and navigating it to the sea on the Arctic coast. Dr. King, with the remainder of the party, (eight men,) reached England, in the Hudson's Bay Compan/s ship, in the following month, October. Of Captam Back's travels it has been justly observed that it is impossible to rise from the perusal of them without being struck with astonishment at the extent of Bufferings which the human frame can endure, and at the same time the wondrous display of fortitude which was exhibited under circumstances of so appalling a nature, as to invest , the narrative with the character of a ro- mantic fiction, rather than an unexaggerated tale of actual reality. He, however, suffered not despair nor despon- dency to overcome him, but gaUantly and undauntedly pursued his course, until he returned to his native lan'd to add to the number of those noble spirits whose names will be carried to posterity as the brightest ornaments to the country which gave them birth. Captain Back's Voyage of the Tebbob. In the year 1836 Captain Back, who had only returned the previous autumn, at the recommendation of the Geo- Saphical Society, imdertook a voyage in the Terror up uoson's Strait. He was to reach Wager Biver, or Eepulse Bay, and to make an overland journey to examine the bottom of Prince Begent Inlet, sendmg other parties to the north and west to examine the Strait of the Fury and Hecla, and to reach, if possible, FrankUn's Point Turnagain. Leavi^ England on the 14th of June, he arrived on the 14th of August, at Salisbury Island, and proceeded up the Frozen Strait ; off Cape Comfort the ship got frozen in, and on the breaking up of the ice by one of those frequent convulsioils, the vessel was drifted right up the Frozen Ch an nel^ gr j adi p g l a rge heapa that nppnHedjior progrcsa to powder. From December to March she was driven about by the fury of the storms and ice, all attempts to release her MESSRS.' DBASE AND S1MPS0N*S DISCOVERIES. 133 being ntterhr powerless. She thus floated till ih^ lAH, was also as a Lieut^najit with FraS orSl L^ ^a Messrs. Dease AKD SiMPsoK's iWovEBiEs JdUw\tSSfpS^^ ?«-J-«d upon -st,oft^\:S^ 1 America and smaU portions of which were left tn?° Mr'^T^orsl^S^^^^a^S: ^li-^^^:^W ^^T' were sent out 4h a party of twelve ml r^' "I^^ company's chief fort, with proper ^d« «^/ ""T *^^ Descending the Mackenzie t^tK„«!f.i,"^^ appliances, surveyed m Tiilv isS It ^® ?®?' *^®y reached and inches below the 8nrf«i^rT^Ir?.^ ^"^^^e^. several r I h.oEe, below thr',;s?«oda, and cucumbersd with Maases of floating ice. The rapids they had to pass were yery perUoug, as may be inierred from the following graphic description : — " We had to pull for our lives to k6«^> out of the suction of the precipices, along whoso base the oreakers raged and foamed with overwhelming fury. Shortly before noon, we came in sight of Escape Bapid of EranMin ; and a glance at the overhanging cliffs told us that there was no alternative but to run down with full cargo. La an instant," continues Mr. Sin^pson, "we were - in the vortex; and before we were aware, my boat was borne towards an isolated rock, which the boihng surge almost concealed. To clear it on the outside was no longer possible ; our only chance of safety was to run between it ana the lofty eastern cliff. The woraverid the B«S?en S??^.if ' ^Q T'^l^ ^* *^^^' resictenoe on the lake by the 14th of September. ^ T»«^!^^*J?''w?'!*^'''' these persevering explorers . oom- vTl^^Zo^^J^iV'y'^S^' ' i^^ reacLd the Bloody Fall on the 22nd of June, 1839, and occupied themselves for a week m carefully examining Eichardson's Biver, Itself m the head of Back's Inlet. On the 3rd of jlly ^ey reached Cape Barrow, and from its rocky heights were surpnsed to observe Coronation Gulf almost c^ ■4 ( 136 PROGRESS OP ARCTIO DISCOVERY. of ice, while on their former visit it could have been crossed on foot. They were at Cape Franklin a month earlier than Mr. Simpson reached it on foot the previous year, aed doubled Cape Alexander, the northernmost cape in this quarter, on the 28th of Julv, after encountering a violent gale. They coii^te(l the nuge bay extending for about nine degrees eastward from this point, bein^ favpured with clear weather, and protected by the vanojis islands tl^y met from the crushing state of the ice drifted from seaward. * ^ • On the lOth.pf August they opened a strait about ten ^niles wide at each extremitv, but narrowing to four or five mileis in the centre. T|u8 strait, which divides the main*' land from Boothia, has been called Simpson's Strait.' On ■ the 13th of August thev had passed Eichardson's Point and doubled Point Ogle, the furthest point of \ Back's journey in 1834. By the 16th they had reached Montreal I^Mid in Back's , Estuary, where they found a deposit of provisions which Captain Back had left there that day nve years. The pemmican was unfit for use, but out of sevetal pounds of ohocolate half decayed the men contrived to pick suflScient to make a kettleful of acceptable drink in honour of the occasion. There were also a tin case and a few :^h-hooks, of which, observes Mr. Simpson, " Mr. Dease and I took possessioiii, as memorials of our having break- fasted on the very spot where the tent of our gallant, though less successful precursor stood that very day five years before." • By the 20th of Ai^gust they had reached as far as Aber- deen Island tp the etStward, from which they had a view of an apparently large gulf, corresponding with that wWcb haa been so correctly described to Parry byHhe intelligent Esquimaux fenjale%s Akkolee. ' *. f'rom a mountainous ,ridge about three miles inland a vi4|W of land in the north-^t was obtained, supposed to bo aob of the southern promontories of 'Bootiua., High and dv^ant islands stretching from E. to E.N.E. (probably some in Comimttee Bay) weije seen, and two considert^te ones jF ere n(^d far out in the offing. Bemembefing -the length wid difficulty of their return route, the^ explorers "nofc retraced their ateps. On their return ^aeed »ixty milw ^ t^ #ottth «pMt o£ — .hia, whe -KX^ BootEia, w&ere at Me time they were not more tijan ninety miles from tip site of the magnetic pole! i4 deter- "'■■-'"'■ '^ DR. JOHN RAE's land EXPEDITION. 137 mined bv Gaptain Sir James C. Boss. On the 25th of August they "erected a high cairn at their farthest point, near Cape Herschel. About 150 miles of the high, bold shores of Victoria Land, as far aa Cape Parry, were also examined • Wel- Imgton, eambridge, and Byron Bays being surveyed and accurately laid down. They then stretched across Coro- nation Gulf, and re-entered the Coppermine Eiver on the 16th of September. Abandoning here one of their boats, with thg remains of their useless stores and other articles not^equired they ascended the river and reached Fort Confidence on the 24th of September, after one of the longest and most successful boa| voyages ever .performed on the Polar Sea, havmg traversed more than 1600 miles of sea. In 1838, before the inteUigence of this last trip had been received, Mr. Simpson was presented by the Royal Geographical Societj «f London-with the Founder's Gold Medal, for discovering and tracing in 1837 and 1838 abou^ 300 miles .of the Arctic shoi^es ; but the voyage which I have just recorded has added greatly to the lai&ek which he and his bold compauiions have achieved. ^ Db. John IUb's Lind Expedition, 1846—1847. Although a little out of its chronological order, I give Dr. Rae's exploring trip JBefore I proceed to notice Frank- lin's last voyage, and thte different relief expeditions that hi^e b^n sent out during the past two years. In 1846 tlie Hudson's Company despatched an expe- dition of thirteen persons, under the command of Dr. John Eao, for the purpose of surveying the unexplored portion of- the Arctic coast at the north-eastern angle of the American continent between Dease and Simpson's farthest, and the Strait of the Fury and Hecla. The expedition left Fort Churchill, in Hudson's Bay, on the«th of ^uly, 1846, and returned in safe^ to York Factdlryon the 6th of September in the following' year, -after having, br travelling over the iqe and snow in the spring, traced the coast all the way frdm the Lord Mayor's Bay of Sir John Hoss to within eight or ten Iniles or the Fury .and Hecla Strait, thus proving that eminent navi- I^tor to havft bm^n m r r ^i^^ i n wtfttin g Boot hin t o bo » pemnsula. < ' On the 15tii of J^ly the, boats first fell in with the . ioe, about ten miles north of Cap© Fullerton, ai^ it was Ir^ 18a PROGRESS GP ARCTIC DISCOVBRY. 80 heavy and closely packed that they were obliged t» take shelter in a deep and narrow inlet that opportoaely- presented itself, where they were closed up two days/* On the 22nd the par diligorinvo^lXy It 18 poiiiBB that they mav be found" in qua^terg^e least expected. There 1. stilf rea«>n. then! fH^e. and i 'fiW CAPT, SIR .rOHN PRANITT TV • v i *m « 'JtAITKLIN 8 XJ^ST EXPEDITION Ul interest^ in the pictSe of^thn^A ^^^^^"'' "intensely or We been, somewher^ S^^^^^^ swarming with the human m21tt 5?.V5 ?^^^ y^^"' ' fre&. No hunt was Av^=!rl v- ® "^^®^ ^^ ^et them^ ■gr^eur and a pXJd pXT ""^.w" ^if^^f * ^'d^ • aroused the Arctic echn^F f] 7 l*^^A "^^^^^^ ^las just and comparUons have t • «hey may rescue th« ll? -""^ % *^^ track'by which mantine prison, wher^r it m« J J^^'^ 1^^^ ^ ^^^^^ ^da- Polar S^t wC tW^JX.ed~^'"''-^"P,^^*^^ years of cold and darknesf onTv. '""J-^'FT"^ ^^^'^^^^^ scarcely feeds the blood and th^ f!^w '^H"^^ /"^^^^^ t^a* sustains the heart -^dTd?-^^®^^^ ^°P« *^a,<; scarcely tions to greet tlelst'ry wrhKlA^ "^^ '' '^' which should reach theiJe3 ^tj?^\^''''^'''^-Sronnd has thatcry been listenTd for 'aote^ ST^.S^™"?^^^ ||,an expectation of the rescue whTol if »v. ,?o°iethmg hke revived with each returning srasnn iV^"*"^^ announce has die of its own haBedT^lZ^ itT^'^'f'^r ^'^S^t, to once more settled down uno„ ^l-' a ^^'''^ ^^''^ "^^^ths There is scarcel/a dcSt tC'tfcT '^Tl^-P''^*'^^^^^-- these long pi'niDg h^s ™at K« f ^^}}^^^S now struck, what to fhe anx1ou?queSw w"^-V^.*^^^^^*^^ But Rona forth in search ofthelfSf ^T wt ^^'^^ ^^ ^'^' '■ revealed P' The traU is form^ w , *^^ ^^^^^^r now feef that made it T We «L '""^^ T,^** «^ *^« ^^ary alarm the' pubfic svmnaflnt? T* ^[">ng needlessly to rously stirred on bSfSf^ '^^''^. *^*^« ^^^^ so gpng. bounJ to warn our reader/ 1"' T^^ "»«n.-b«t wli| , teinment of the hope^^ftW^ oo «a„guino an eSl? discoveryis calculaL/5t, first tidings of the recent that the VoSot whi^h wSUcL'^ Tlf^ P°^«'^^^ ^^iT^iTksTv'i^r "* ?r^7°«^J« ™ IJeenTwo yea^ ,-<' * ^^ IFl VHRI "^i PROGRESS O^yAROTIC DISCOVERY. «!^iF5^II'^^^t^*/*?*°®*^ ^"^^y- There ia scarcely reaso^ doubt that had the Jiresent oiroumstanoes " " searjh occur^d two yea^ ago-h»rt year perhap wanderers wo^ld have^een restored. Anothel makes a fpiffhtful differe% in the oddsr-and we thmk tl^ pubhc w||eVerliftel satisfied with wjiat hi done iij this matteW the v»mole so Jor^ quitioned 8ilent.80 lonnr, s^U speak f jast-aMt&an^ersht • In the proseicution of the^glfele enl^^se on Tc^lw T- ^^f ^^' '^^^ ##:^nerel5C»ntifi6 resealejfc f fogTfaphjcal discoveiy that are atprteeiko^Qtfimff & attention of ^ the commande|pof vessl^se ' ^^^-'^ ^ *tt being^re at stadte^ and above I i-nolUjieriUeiJ everything i;i ' -~"^ |ro|^B8 and kno^, .^^^^^—yj^ iik' a&d other expeditions the :«nyimen can.qviilce. ,\Wlio »te of these gallant ad^^turers \ ot- f-hui rsal ^\ .^ . vi-'^'^'f trtit's^uiiFlias Montgomery depi ktj^l'i9^j^9X)r^tl«|Q^t of vessels in these reffioiis:— rtherelieft^ yeStel in that realm of ft-ost, ^t wreckW, lio^ Rtranded, yet for ever lost; Ijik.eel emT!)edtled in the solid mass ; I^listening saite'appear expanded glass 5 Thf iransvefse ropee witli pwarln enormons strimir, Tha yards with.ioioles grotesquely hung. Wrapt in the tppmaflt shrouds there rests a boy, His old sea-faring fa»e;^8 only joy ; Sprung from a race of rovers, ocean bom. Nursed, at the h«lm. he trod dry land with«com; Through fourscore years Mm port fo pott he vcer^ yiiicksand, nor r'e fate of the terra Incognita of thT^vtt^^^ Tf .''^^^^''^^' t^^at would not only be traced but t f^ f f* "^ ^'^^^'^ ^«^«rica solution of the proWem'of .p^JS • ^^^ surveyed, and the attention of the^K^ of S^^'"' '°^/^t *^« °^^^ted assembliesof other parts of the Zh' Offi •^" ¥^^^*i^« enterprise have achieved flllft!^ ^^^^cml and private have most important leo^^^^^ ^^''''^^- ^^t only newbay8,islanXchLlTsold^^^^^ ^T ^^^^ on our maps, reflectbrcredit on th''^^ perseverance of Englhmen but wL?''^'^'^' ^^^'^^ ^^ still, many clues of the S c^h^^^^ '' ""^^^ important /•ate of tfe mLs^ Arc fc^^'jl^"^ ^« t<> tbe ultimate , Unfortunately thT track h«« h^ ^'7 ^^ ^ ^««^ ^o^nd. of use toward r^co^'i^lj^^^^^^^ 'Z ^^.^ *^ H the dead are of national anH ,-/^,vT^i ■ *^® tidings of if they reopen sorrow fn r^^'^'^'^''^' importance, feven intellig'ence,Zwre;'8"d."'i8Tetfer%Zr^"^ ^'^1'' «^^ Ignorance. We likft tn lrn^«. *t ^^'^°^ incertitude and con.,ation.nkVo'^^: -.'J,'--^^^^^^^ even in the spring of 1^5 tL w^. f? ■^-^'^'''''''e/e". NnM^^]^ %|f '^ ^"^^^^^^ expedition to th^ _ Acoo/dingljadjy 'comtnand was afCn to Si. t t, *ranklm, whbr#.commisHinm./i ^iT^ crTr ^ ^9 ^''^ ''ohn f^o vessels which h^T,«fw ^^^^^bus and Terror, the Seaa. The expediti^ SS fro^X"" '^' ®°"^^ ^^^^^ i^uiuon saued irom ^heerness on the 26th t ¥ IN j;*- -<^<' U6 FBOGBESS OP ABOTIO DISGOTEBl. of May, 1846. The following were the officers belonging to those yessels :— ijames (Capt.) am Gore (Commander), Henry T. D« Captain — Si Commander Lieutenant Le fi^lsconte, James Wjlliam Fairholme. Mates-pi-Glias. F. deaVsBux (liieut.), Robert O. Sergeant. Second Master— Henry F. C^lipaP^P^ s^^ --j. Sur||eon — Stephen S. Stanl^. \, ' ■ ""' Aaaistant-Surffeon — Harry D. S. Goodsir (acting), aster ana Purser — Chas. H. Osmer. aster — James Reid, acting; "etty Officers, Seamen, &c. Full complement, 70. } Tho; '"^ Terror. Captain— -Fraa. E. M. Crozier. Ideutenariits— Edward' Little (Commander), Q«o. H. Hodgson, John Irving. %• Mates — Frederick J. Hornby (Lieut.), (Lieut.) , Ice-mastq^T. Blanky (acting). ^Second MMtipr-^G. A. Macbea% Surgeon — JoM S. Peddie. ^ , Assistant- Surgeon— ^Alexander "McDonald. Clerk in Charge— Edwin Jj^JI' Helpman. 57 Petty Officers, Sean*n, tfec. _,, " " Fun complement, 68. *^ sctil^nk is USthin parenthesis were ed during their absence. *l-»a* ««?('- Those officers pro The following is ai^recorded in O' 'Sir John Franl F.R.S., was bom -in 1786 at S \ifl brother of the late,^ir W. "a^ Madras. He entered tl: ' boy on board the Polyphem tijijier irhom he served 8 services utline of Capt. Frai B Naval Bilteraphy :- Kt., *K.i£^., ACH., ftj6I.L.,^ anMi', Brt.,.Chiff JustS' ^yyJn.Ootober, 1800, asi ptain John^Lawford, shiMian m the action off as .Cop^hagen, 2nd of April, tSOl.' He then sailed with Apri -m Captain Flinders mH.M>^ o op Jwy g Wi^gfo y i oa^ .. . _^ _^_ of discovery to New Holland, joining there the armed store-ship Porpoise ; he was wrecked on a coral reef near Gato Bank on the 17th of August, 1803. I shall not %» m % W- CAPT. SIR ,OHK FRANKLIN'S LAST EXPEDITION. 147 activity. Bii weXd hfm^?l^^^^ conspicuous zeal and £elleropAon, where he was ri«m«l ^J?^^^' '''' ^^^^^ ^^^e -^confirmed as LieutPntrJ!! 5P^^V^*^P™an. He was of Februa^ ll^8 arWhp^.''"^ the Bedford, Uruth of PortugJ from JUsbon t^So,T'!^^^*^^^ '^^^ ^^^7 engaged In veiT arduor «^^- ^ America. He wm againWewaJe'^riTt^e'S'o^^^ '^' '^^1^^^^^ wounded in boat servicerLdXti^^^liH^^^^^ «^^^^% this occasion was warmly and nffl.tfi ^"^^^^* services on promotion. On the iS of T-^'^^/o?°^^«°ded for - command of the hired b±l£??^r:.l^^^^^ ^^ assumed Captain D. Bnc^,ot\^'^'^'Z7^''^^^T<^?^^d- voyage of discovery to thnrfpl^t^^''' ?"" *^^ pcrOous whicgl have fouTreconied 1-^^^^ %aving paid off the Sin ft ''^^'*^- ^ ^P'^l. 1819 ^8 invested with the^nS..? ^^"^^"^ J?^ovember, he to proceed ovSid from?hrI''^ "^^^^ destined the purpose moTylZ^^wTJ f "^'"*^'? ^^y' ^^^ positTon of the mouth onhernL?-*^'''^^ *^^ ^^^^ ^xact trending oC thrshores of fffp'^^^^^^^^'' ^^d the ^Fd of that ri^r *^^ ^^^"^^ ^^a to the east- |ihe':£ef o*f ^12^1^^^^^^^ -^^^ endured m^ as far as Pni^f q\ ^- % ^°^^'«c of which he gether cWfeo miles CmtlliTvJ^^^H ^ J°^"^ey alto- in his "OTfeti^e of'« T^ Y^^^^'^:^ ^^^ ably set forth Sea in the^ari8i9 2t^nl w A' ?\"'^« '^'^' ^-'-^ preceding naffes Tt! 1 ^^'^^ ^ ^^^e abridged in mission wU,be found i>?!iLf? The results of this " Narrative of a Knd Tfl^'l-"' .^"P*^" »raDUin's Polar Sea in I82S-7 " ^^'^'""' *" '^^ ^lows of the res SociXVf'^Paifs^^t??^^ for halving Selhe r^^iZff ".^^^^-^^ ^^A frC^ graphical inowledt^r^r^^^^^^^^ to^eo- #. PB0QRES9 OF AROTIO DISCOVEBT. 148 the 29th of ApriJ, 1829. he received the honour of kniaht- de^ee o?l D C ^^ ^ '^'^^ foUowing the Oxford of W M q^^p*- ¥^^ ^^ 7^ ^r^'f^'' «^™« ^ command f^T^p ?"*''^i'"'-''''J?^ Mediterranean station, and for ^8 exertions durmg that period as connected with the troubles m Greece, was presented with the order of the ^.SSa^^Vr ^'^®°^oo^'' *^^^ ^^^3 cheated a K.C.H. on the 25th of January 1836, and was for some time Governor lulTt ^ilTm ^^^; He married, on the 16th of August, is^d, Jileanor Anne, youngest daughter of W. lf^7^' ^^^•f^^^«5lt««^of Berners^Sfreet, Eondon, and sec«fidly, on the 5th of November, 1828, Jane, second dai(ghter of John Griffin, Esq.. of Bedford Place. Captain Crozier was in aill Parry's expeditions, havinff llZ S!*^f P™^^ m the Fury in 1821, In the Aecla if 1824, went out as a Lieutenant in the ffecla with Parrv on hi8 boat expedition to the Pole in 1827, volunteered in Sa + ^V"^' 1^ search of the missing whalers and their crews to Davis Straits, was made a Captain in 1841, and was secondm cotnmand of the Antarctic expedition linder bir James iloss, and on his return appointed to the Terror as second m command under Franklin. Lieutenant Gore served as a mate' in the last fearful voyage of the Terror, under Back, and was also wiSi Koss m the Antarctic expedition. He has attained his commander's rank during his absence. Lieutenant Fairholme was in the Niger expedition. Lieutenant Little has also been promoted diiring his absence, and so have aU the mates. ^ Commander Fitzjames is a brave and gaUant officer whd has seen much service in the East, and has attained to hij post rank smco his departure. The Terror, it may be remembered, is the vessel in ^tt'^^'^^^S'^ ?• ^^^^ «i^de his perUoua attempt to reach Repulse Bay in 1836. ^ The ^rebus and Terror were not expected home unlesB success had early rewarded their eflbrts, or some casualty 1 Mtened their return, before the close of 1847, nor were any Iu1S£?nn«Sf '"^-^T^^r '"^ the interval; but when thi ?LTf^ on847 arrived without any intelligence of the ships, the attention of H.M Government was directed to the ne- oTA ^l '.^T^"^^. ^''^'- ^^^ conveying relief to them, in JgLgl ^y^^ ^^}P5 m pnioned in the-ice . or w rec k ed^-im d^ m want ot provisions and means of transport. wi %i^jA "^""Tu M«^«^i°ff expedition m three divisions was fitted out by the Government in thft early part of CAPT. SIR JOHN PRANKLIN*S LAST EXPEDITION. 149 1848. The investigation was directed to three different quarters simultaneously, viz. : 1st, to that by which in case of success the ships would come out of the Polar Sea, to the westward, or JBehring's Strait. This consisted of a smgle ship, the jPlover, commanded by Captain Moore, which left England in the latter end of January' for the purpose of entering Behring's Strait. It ^as intended that she should arrive there in the month of July and having looked out for a winter harbour, she might send out her boats northward and eastward, in which directions tiie discovery ships, if successful, would be met with. Ihe Plov&r, however, in her first season, never even- approached the place of her destination, owing to her setbng off too late, and to her bad sailing properties. Her subsequent proceedings, and those of her boats along the coast, will be found narrated in after pages. The second division of the expedition was one of boats, to explore the coast of the Arctic Sea between the Mac- kenzie and Coppermine Eivers, or from the 135th to the 115th de^ee of W longitude, together with the south coast ot Wollaston Land, it being supposed, that if Sir John Frankhn's party had been compelled to leave the ships and take to their boats, they would make for this coast, whence they could reach the Hudson's Bay Com- pany s posts. This party was placed under the command ot the iaithful friend of Franklin and ^he companion of his former travels, Dr. Su- John Eichardson, who landed at New York m April, 1848, and hastened to join his men and boats, which were ah-eady in advance towards the Arctic shore. He Was, however, unsuccessful in his -search. The remaining and most important portion of this searchmg expedition consisted of two ships under the command of Sir James Boss, Vhich sailed in May, 1848 tor the locaUty m which Franklin's ships .entered on their course of discovery, viz., the eastern side 6f Davis Straits. Ihese did not, however, succeed, owing to the state df the lee, m gettmg mto Lancaster Sound untD- the season for operations had nearly closed. These ships wintered in the neighbourhood of Leopold J^lltod, Regent Inlet, and missmg the store-ship semu^ith provisions , and fuel, to eaable them to stop ot!^ another year, were driven out through the Strait by the pftck :q{ ice, and returned Jiom© -aasueeesHful. The sutwequeht e™dItiofir conse- quent upon the failure of the foregoing wfll be found fully detailed and narrated in their proper order. Among the number of volunteers for the service of ex- 150 PROGRESS OF ARCTJC DISCOVERT. ploration, in the different searching expeditipna, were the ' following : — Mr. Chaa. Eeid, lately (X)Dmianding the whal- in^fhip Pacific, and brother to thi ice^maater onboard the Erehus, a man of great experience and respectability. > The Eer. Joseph Wolff, who went to Bokhara in search of Capt. Conolly and Col. Stoddart.; Mr. John McLean, who had passed twenty-five* years aa an officer and partner of the Hudson's Bay Uomp'any, and ' who has recently published an interesting narrative of hia experience in the north-west regions. Dr. Richard King, who accompanied €apt. Ba%kb'liS». . land journey to the mouth of the Great Fiak Jg^iver. 'i) Lieut. Sherard. Osborn, E.JST., who haa recently gone out mjihe Pioneer, t^der to the Resolute. ^Com-inander Forsyth, E.N., who volunteered for all the expeditions, and was aj; last sent out by Lady Franklia in the Prince Albert. * * . ■ ^, Dr. McCormick, E.N., who served under Gap?" Sir E. Parry, m the attempt to reach the North Pole, in 1827, who twice previously volunteered his s^frvices in 1847. Capt. *Sir John Eoss, who sailed out in" the Felix, fitteS ' out by the Hudson's Bay Company, and by private sub- scriptions ; and many others. Up to (he year 1854 no intelligence of aq^ kind hisk^ been received respecting the expedition, audits late is now excitmtr the most intense anxiety, not odly on the part of the British government and public, but pf the whole cMlized world. The maritime powers of IJurope and the UBiAid States are vying with each ©thef as to', who shailVbe the first to discover some trace of the* missing navigj^tors, and if they be still alive, to render them assist- ance. Jhe Hudson's Bay Company haVe, -with a noble hberality,;T)l^ced all their available resoujj^ of men, pro'- visions, and the services of their chief and JEt experienced traders, attho disposal of Government. Th^ussian autho- rities hava.tilsrf given every facility for diffusing informa- ^tlon and affording assistance in their territories. In a letter from Sir John FrankUn to Col. Sabine, dated from .the Whale-Fish Islands, 9th of July, 1846, after noticing that, including what thev had received from the transport, which had accompanied them' so far, the Erebiu and Terror had on board provisiohs, fuel, clothing, and* stores, -for ^ree years complete -from that date, %. e,^ July, iH'tH , ; hip con tinues' "" )t^ wifeancTdhught^i- will not^be over-anxious if we should ijot return by the time they have fli<>d qpon ; and'I must beg of yoii to give them the benefit of you!- advice' audi i^. ■l^^*;. N. CAPT. SIR JOHBT FBANKLIN's LAST EXPEDITlpN. periencftwliewtliafcarrivep, for you know well, that even ** after the second winter, "Without sticceBS in our object, j^e ■- i^ ■ > ;*•♦ ^*'i' ^wT '^'^. mm 153 PIIOGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY. carpenter in charao nf tl,„ p .'"'''">* "^""i "Danish that though tte wLter w.. .T™*'!^ " these islands, UterthanuariS^™wa,'Z ,>„ S'*'' T^f.^^ "»« IJeptford, and report his arrival to the Secretary of tl!^ monvTn'fh ^ ^"7? "^".^^ satisfaction in beSr^/Lu " I hare, &o., - , "The^an.H.L.Co;;:Mp":!^''-'''^">"«--" the.i«eo?."SlXtcE-/™aU^ onlurcd" y . CAPT. sm JOHN FWKLIN'S LAST EtPEDlTIOK 153 Kegent Inlet id smV th. , '^"'' *° descend eoviedj^^esr™' DeltdS'^/on^""^ "'"' ^°'^' '^'- failed to the s^Xard t^"™' **"' °°""' '^ t'"'? ditions resuituiK therefrom. 2* '*™' "P"- «"«v, step, „u,t then rt.ff""' " ■"> <"■•'•»■• Penod thM »?tl, T. *'' °™'"" "Perienceha. cleaxlTalB' i«fetT7b™ wiJh''TOmfort 1h^? '■'■'fT*^ "«* *slr.n . , up w WW tune, I am disposed to consider it rather in V- ^;<;'I i^ PROGRESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVERY. favmlr than otherwise of the success which has attended thqif efforts." Captain Sir Q. Bfusk, in a letter to the Secretary of the Admiralty, under date 27th of January, 1848, says, " I .cannot bring myself to entertain more than ordinary anxiety for the safety and return of Sir John Franklin « and his gallant companions." Captam Sir John Ross records, in February, 1847, his opinion that the expedition was frozeA up beyond Meh^ ville Island, from the known intentions) of Sir 'John * Franklin to put his ships into the drift ice at the western end of Melville Isl^d, a risk^which was deemed in the highest degree imprudent by Lieutenant ^garry and the officers of the Expedition of 1819-20, with sMps of a less, draught of water,- and in every respect better calculated t© sustain the pressure of the ice, and other dangers to which ^tUey must be exposed; and as it is now well knov^n that* "the expedition has not succeeded in passing Behring's Strait, and if not totally lost, must have^een carried by the loe that is known to drift to the southward on knd seen at a great distance in that direction, and from which the accumulation of ice behind theta will, as in Boss's o>vn cade, for ever prevent the return of the ships ; conse- quently Uw^ must be abandoned. When we remember - with whit extreme difficulty Ross's party travelled 300 miles over much smoother ice after they abandoned their vessel, !t appears very doubtful whether Franklin and his men, 138 in number, could possibly travel 600 miles. H In the oontingency of the dhips having penetrated some considerable distance to the south-.west of Cape Walker, and having been hampered and crushed in the nawow channels of the Archipelago, which there are reasons for believing occupies the space between Victoria, Wollaston, and Banks' Land8,^it is well remarked by Sir John Richard- son, that such accidents among ice are seldom ^so sudden but tiiat the boats of one or ofi^oth ships, with provisions, can be saved ; and in such an event the survivors would either return to Lancaster Strait, or make for the con- tinent, according to their nearness. ^ i^^IPI?^* Sabine remarks, in a letter dated Woolwich, ^i«ln J y' l^'^^ — " J^t ^8» ^^Jr John FrankUn'-« intention, il toiled at one point, to t>y in succession all the probable openings into a more navigable part of the Polar 8©a : tiw range of coast is oonsiderablo in which memorials .>f the irora Melville Island, in the whwt, to the gp*at Sound at the head of Baffin s B*v, m the eaft." ■^^ { oolsaH" f °'' ^y^P^<>°^« ^^ / case When Sir Edward pilr^ TT^ ^^^ ™^"' ^ ^as the Chmmel. '^ ^'^^'^y wmtered two years in Fox'b ! .thiitsik*Bfe^j:is^^,f^^*- ^ vice. --Par/. Pap^^Jo 264 4- -^H J!S^^' ^^«a* «er- ; , ^ The late Sir ffi B^row' I^T • ^^- / dated July, 1847, says-^ C '^ * memorandum ' and S hr^ifUt^^i^^^^^ ^^"^^^ ^>-«l^liB. »h.^. i. iZy::z:i bur.:!!:s ^rr^-"^ ^ ^ .% of the ae«o^^ni^£^rt£:L°/^V-/.tthS 168 PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY; opening into Lancaster Sound. Hitherto no difficulty has been found to the entrance into that Sound. If dis- 'appointed, rather than return to the southward, with the new of wintering at or about Disco, I should be inclined to think that they would endeavour to enter Smith's Sound, so highly spoken of by Baffin, and which just now that gallant and adventurous Eussian, Admiral Count Wrangel, has pointed out in, a paper addrfesaed to the Oeographical Society as the starting place for an attempt to reach the North Pole ; it would appear to be an inlet that runs up high to the northward, as an officer in one of Parry's ships states that he saw in the line of direction along that inlet, the sun at midnight skimming the horizon. " From Lancaster Sound Franklin's instructions directed him to proceed through Barrow's Strait, as far as the islands on its southern side extended, which is short of Melville Island, which was, to be avoided, not only on account of its dangerous coast, but also as being out of the direction of the course to the intended object. Having, therefore, reached the last known land on the southern side of Barrow's Strait, they were to shape a direct course to Behring's Strait, without any deviation, except what obstruction might be met with from ice, or from islands, in the midst ot the Polar Sea, of which no knowledge had at that time been 'procured ; but if any such existed, it would of course be left to their judgment, on the spot, how to get rid of such obstructions, by taking a northerly or a southerly course. * * * * * „ "The only chance of bringing them upon this (the Ameri- can) coast is the possibility of some obstruction having tempted them to explore an immense inlet ou" the northern shore of Barrow's Strait (short of Melville Island), called Wellington Channel, which Parry felt an inclination to ex- plore; and morethanoneofthepresentparty betrayed to me a similar inclination, which I discouraged, no one venturing to conjecture even to what extent it might go, or into what difficulties it might lead. " Under all these circumstances, it would be an act of folly to pronounce any opinion of the state, pondition, or position of those two ships ; they are well suited for their "•urpose, and the only doubt I have is that of their being ampered by- the sc^rowa among the ice^ " I Sir James C. Ross, in his outline of a plan for affording relief, submitted to the Admiralty in December, 1847, flfuggestod that two ships «hould be sent out to exMaino OPINIONS AND SUQOHSTIONS. ' I59 Wellinffton Channel, aUuded 1» in the fore^mo- m. Wbonr might bJllKr ont Tl^ti.Tlt'^ Garmer Bay op Cape EenneU. From th£ poSnX westward, by detached parties, early in the BDrin^ as waII as the western coa^t of Bo6thia, a oonsiderffif dfataTce to the southward; and at a more advanced period of ?he Znlet^d!^ ^^'^ '''''''^ ^ ^^P« Nico^'^ht t The other ship should then proceed alone to the west. J^rd endeavourmg to reach Winter Harbo^. hi MeTvi b StssrrteT""^"*^^^^^^' La;d,in;h;ch the spSnf '' P"'"*' P^'^« "^^^^ ^' ««°* «^t early in coa^st of Banfi'1^«nH'''^1,^' ^^'^^^ ^ ^^'^^^^ western coast ot iianks Land, and proceed direct to Cape Bathurst or Cape Parry, on each of which Sir John fechardaon Good Hni 5 i TvJ^f^ Company's settlement at Fort Uood Hope on the Mackenzie, whence they miffht travel by the usud route of the traders to the pSal settle ment, and thence to England. principal settle- Tilll' r''^^ P^""*^^ ',^°^]^ ^^P^«^e *he eastern shore of Banks Land, and make for Cape Krusenstern? where or at Cap| Hemie they wiU find a cacA^ of provTsion left by Sir John Eichardson, with whoif^irnStv Zv communicate, an^^ whou,it may assist^' TeL the examination of WoUaston and Victoria^Lands^or^^^^^^ to England by the rou*6 ^ siiall deem most advisable > bir James Ross was entrusted with the carrying out of aciount'^f^^ ^'^^ :^«^^n>. and J..e.%X!'and an will be foln r T^'- *°.^ P,^o«eedings_ of these vessels Tu /?. ^ ^®°°^^^*^^^P'.,^d tl m Melville Island and Banks' S TlttUC' eon-«ideiK;tLtP^ m^^ ^ii^S"t?k^su« recorded, at the moment of retreat, ^ indelSfechSera the3. impressive thoughts: ' We hive been W So^ preseot station, with aji easterlv wind blow&Tsh fS' «l f ^^ -^^^^toi^rs together, and afthough tlSTS S'der! ably oflf the land, t^e ice had not du^g the whole Sthft jme ^oved a smgle yard from the ^S^oSg fp^rSSf that there was no space in which the ice was at hT)ertvto ni o- T ^*.'^ only to be performed by watching the occasional opening between t£e ice and the shore and Wore.acontinuitv of land is essential frthfspu^oTe Zff * r*'^^^^ of fand, which was here ^bout to fSl!^ Aminn^ -'^'If .^' furn shed by the northern coast S America m whatsoever latitude it may be found ' As- suming, therefore, Sir John Franklin has beera;res^d between Melville Island and Banks' Land, whert Sir E Parry was arrested by difficulties which he considered in * laTnffl '"^^'' r^ ¥ ¥« ^^"«^«d «^^ advi^of that gS wm hatTAr'r^r'^' ^'' the continuity of Americafhe wiu Have turaaA^ihe prows of his vessels south and west, I -Land tends for Victoria or WoUaston j'therefore, that we may expect to find ^cked, whence they will make in their ^Brn land of North Somerset, if that land ; -.- — - -- --" lar distant, win w Zh *o «av€ the party from the ordeal of a fourth winter, when starvation must be their lot, I prooose to undertake the boldest journey that has ever beenSmpted able onT/l''^ f.'^'""' of America, one which was jusUfi- to rZl^ ff "^ ^^! circumstances. I propose to attempt to reach the western land of North Somerset or thl ": bk r'z v^'T..^^?"' ^^ »v beTLs Id! lMomnIir,-„ / f-'" °^ ""^ approacliing summer; to SeS; two • V" ""°°"" *'"" "^"'' '"" ■"" 'x^''" "IreBtmy hope of success in the performance of thm ^b^&eiTH"^'"' *^ '■'^i ^'Ipo-ess anTntimat will have tur according as Lands the expe boats fbr should not be"^ mnnTS .1 r^ ^- "^""l^ ^^ subjected. A glance at the vZfo ^^^^ America, directed to Behring's Strait in the i'apfic, Barrow's Strait in the Atlantic, lid the laud of wf' Omiom ASD SCGCESTI0K8. Jg, question; it is an ilea of ^ all ^ altoge her out of the Atlantic is so doubtfS of JuSs S V^^^' '^^' ^ '^^ «My, to put this assistance Se tf^t '/ "^^'^^^ ^««e«- mention that Sir John Ross Cr,^ P ^ ^':'''S '^^^i°. to m the summer of 1832 To a W ,J^^^« Strait closed ^«^/j>?t for success; for the fal^r™/^' ^^"".' ^^°°« ^e yould be the exception to the ^\. \-f ^ ^^^ Journey . tion^ would be the Se itself tAT?"^^ ^Je sea expedi^ North Somerset, where s2 John F J ifrjft^ ^^^^ of found, the Great Fish Riv^r i^^i ^^^^l^^iPkely to be and although the approaK it ^f K '''''.^^^ onl/route • poor Mid too difficult of ^ce-Vto J T^i'x.* «°«°<^y too provisions, it may be mSL ^^'^ ""^^^^ transport of Ween the lost^e'^Sn tS^r-^ ^des be thus placeS rtheirdis^nllT^"^"^ ^°^^d' ^^d the huntmg grounds of thrSiS W vVT"^ *^^°^ to It IS imposs ble that they can rS klT ^^*-'^'^ ^'^es It was W the Great PilhEivrl^tT.^v^^^ feea while acting as ^t^n^r^A % . ^ reached the Polar ^Bs. IfeelS^niyduTtirlforV^ '''''^ ^^ Si? JoS 80 peculiariy eirc^mSced a^^^^^^^^ '/ *^" "^^^^ place my views on record as «n I ^f^T* foment to Even if it should be deteriJLe^\''^^«* 5^.^^ sincerity ■ vessels through Barrow's sS J^ ^"""^ ^°^«« provision boats for thelost eTpedi ion ^n^^^ 'u ? *^ ^^^^^*^ ^^ be satisfactory to know that sucb « '^'^•'* '^''«^«^' ^^^^ posed sbouldie adoptid ; thSe if t^^'^V' ^ ^^^^ P^o- faJ and the service under considerl^^^^^ f """P*^ ^^^^^^ Will be a source of reicrrpf +!,„: Z , °° be put aside it will feel, but the whX 4fzedl^^^^ '^^^'''^ ^^'-^- 18 felt, and eveiy soul hTperished t J^'^ ^^'' ^^^^t have proposed will be urgedSn «;/ '^- ^^^'^'^on as I for It IS impossible that tie cSrv^iP^? % adoption ;• a search be made for the rem^r*!JII?^i'^«* satisfietf unti^ "The fact thrt all lanTthffi^^^^'''*«^P^^tion. are generally ice-free, wficH diuT ^ T''^'^ ^«Pect Sir John Frinklin saied must bZJ^""^"^^ upon when gallant officer; he wilUhe?e?o1e J, ^^-''''i^' ^^^ the serious difficulty, whilt^Ztw, ' i^ ™ng himself in a ^omerset, as a refu^ grounTS f!^7^^^^^^^f>fNorth The effort by Behringf S Id ^^^l ^H ^PP^'tunity. -rthy ^ attempt, Lt fo^^ll^e^ "^^t^i !;• ' ■rfW 4J> ^ ' » '• f " IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) * i K /" fto I.I 1^12 US 125 ■u - u( 1*0 IMi io L25 lllliu-ii.6 I .1 . " Photographic . 4^ , Sciences J j^ Qffporalion WIST MAIN STMII WItSTIR.N.Y. I4SM (7t«) 173-4303 'J i '^ ^^% r <^ <^^, /£ ■jo : Ua m:. / ~a y I ^ ;,*-f3j#fl!5' mmmmmmm 162 PROOBESS OP ABCTIC DISCOVERT. effort, it 18 assumed that Sir John Franklin has made the , passage, and that his arrest is between tiie Mackenzie Itiver and Icy Cape ; in the latter, that Sir James Eoss will reach Banks' Land, and trace its continuity to Vic- toria and Wollaston Land, and thus ^ake the ' passage.' First, We have no reason to believe thatN^ir John Franklin and Sir James Boss will be more fortunate than their pre- decessors, and we oaimot trust to their succesg.' Secondly, We are unable to assume that Sir Tames EossNi^ll reach Banks' Land ; Sir E. Parry was unable to reach it, and only viewed it from a distalStJe ; much less are we able to assume that the gallant officer will find a high road to Victoria Land, which is altogether a terra incognita. " Mr. T. Simpson, who surveyed the Arctic coast com- prised between the Cop{>ermine and Castor and Pollux llivers, has set that question at rest, and is the only autho- rity upon the subject. 'A further exploration,' remarks Mr. Smipson, from the most eastern limit of his journey, ^would necessarily demand the whole time and energies oi another expedition, having some point of retreat much nearer to the > scene of operations tnan Oreac Bear Lake, and Great Bear Lake is to be the retreat of Sir John Bichardson. . #, " What retreat could MJr. Simpson have meant but Great SlavctLake, the retrelif of the land party in search of Sir^John Boss P and what other road to the unexplored grouiid, the western land of North Somerset, could that traveller have meant than Great Fish River, that stream which I have pointed out as the ice-free and high road to the land whore the lost expedition is likely to be round, — to be the boundary of that passage which for three-and-a-half centuries we have been m vain endeavouring to reach in shipsr Captain Sir W. E. Parry, to whom Dr King's pro- posal was submitted by the Admiralty, thus comments - on it:-— * "My former opinion, qpotedby Dr. King, as to the difficulty of ships penetrating to the westww^ beyond Cape Dunda« (the south-western extremity of Melville Island), remains unaltered ^ and I should expect that Sir John Franklin, being aware of this difficulty, would use his utmost efforts to get to the southward and west- ward before he approached that point, that ts, be%een the 100th and HOth d e ^p-ee of longitude. The more I nfcft eoandwea ti ui rotpat (wimrtr ina- uaturallj o uc^" pied muoh of my attention lately), the more difficult I find OPINIONS AND SUGGESTIONS. 168 li to oonjeoture where the expedition may have stopped, eit^r with or without any serious accident to the ships • but as no information has reached us up to this time I conceive that there is some considerable probability' of their being situated somewhere between the longitude I- have just named; how far they may have pene- • trated to the southward, between those meridians, must be- a matter of speculation, depending 6n the state of the ice, and the existence of land in a space hitherto blank on our maps. "Be tiiis iw it may, I consider ^it not improbable, as suggrested by Dr. King, that an attempt will be made bv .. them to fall back on the western coast of North Somersef ' wherever that mav be found, as being the nearest point' aflordin^ a hope of communication, either with whalers or wrth ships sent expressly in search of the expedition , ".^^^.'"f *5?« ^^ .^ith Dr. Zing, I am co^ipeUed to differ^^mm him entirely as 4o the readifcsj; mode of reaching ;that coast, because I feel satisfied that, with the resources of the expedition now equipping under 8^ James Eoss, the enel-gy, skiU and inteUigeaee erf- that ofecer will render it a matter of no very difficult enterprise to examine the coast in question, either with his ships, boats, or travelling parties ; whereas an attempt to reach that coast by an expedition from the continent of America must, as It appears to me, be extremely hazardous and uncertain. And as I understand it to be their lordships' intention to direct Sir James Edss to station one of &• ships somewhere about Cape Walker, while the other pro- ceeds on the search, and likewise to equip his boats spe- cialiy for the purpose of examining the various coasts and lAlets, 1 am decidedly of opinion, that, as regprds the western coast of North Somerset, this pli^will be much more likely to answer the proposetFobject than any overland expedition. This object will, of course, be the more easily accomplished, in case of Sir Jam^ Boss* finding the western coast of North Somerset navigable for his ships. * * ♦«!;' \ ^^h^^ J^T?/-,, ^i°K'8 "^ggestion, respecting Vic- tona Land and WoUaston Land, supposing Sir John irankhnsships to have been arrested between the meri- diani to which I have already aUuded, it does sedm, by an inspection of the map, not improbable that parties may att empt to |)enetrate to the oontin ent in jhMdi rfi " . t^OTBiing weir aogiitinted ^Oi the faciritTes for reach-' log the coast of America opposite those hmds in the manner 112 ^ . ;:tI»»'"» |g Ha wmm ■iW^^" 1G4 PROGRESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVERT. proposed by Dr. Eing, I am not competent to judge of its practicability." Nearly the whole of the west coast of North Somerset and Boothia was (it will be found hereafter) explored by parties in boats detached from Sir James Eoss's ships in 1849. I append, also, the most important portions of Sir James Kqss s remarks on Dr. Zing's plan. " Dr. King begins by assuming that Sir John Franklin has attempted to push the'ships through to the westward between Melville Island and Banks' Land (althougl directly contrary to his instructions) ; that having bee^ . arrested by insurmountable difficulties, he would have ' turned the prows of his vessel to the south and west, according as Banks* Land tends for Victoria or Wollaston Land;' and having been wrecked, or from any other cause obliged to abandon their ships, their crews would take to the boats, and make for the west coast of North Somerset. "Jfthe expedition had failed to penetrate to the west- ward between Banks' Land and MelviQe Island, it is very probable it wbuld have next attempted to gain the 'con- tinent by a more southerly course ; and supposing that, aft^ making only small progress (jsay 100 miles) to the Si W., It should have been thenfin«uly stopped or wrecked, the calamity will have occurred in about latitude 72^° N and longitude 115° W. This point is only 280 miles from the Coppermine Eiver, and 420 mil6s from the Mac- kenzie, either of which would, therefore,' lH^ily attain-- able, and at each of which abundance o^flKsion might be procured by them, and their retuhjT^ England a measure of no great difficulty. ' ♦ « " At the point above mentioned, the distance from the west coast of North Somerset is probably about 360 miles, and the mouth of the Great Firft River full 500 ; atneither of these places could they hope ^ to obtain a single day's provisions for so large a party; and Sir John Franklin's intimate knowledge of the impossibility of ascending that river, or obtaining any food for his party in passing thr<>ugh the Barren grounds, would concur in deterring him from attempting to gain either of these points. / ' I think it most probable that, from the situation pbinted out, he would, when compelled to abandon his ships, endeavour in the boats to retrace his steps, and passmg through the channel by which he had advanced. / OPDflONS^AND SUGGESTIONS. 165 Cune WnltiT T° '<""" "DO "est as soon as they passed longitude W W ai? «£"" "' ''"'.'"''« "° «• "id iiHroIvedintheice'or.h„fT, ^'^ '"'Pf' ,*<> And them co;j:i,^'^:°i'TrLtroTnit^^^^^^^^^ their vessels at or np«r +k;- • ? T^^S> to abandon- assuredly endj^voS nheS^ho^«r\ ^^y r^r"^^ "^^'^ Sound • but T'!;«n w • ' °°*^' *<* 'each Lancaster S be Si^eTfrl, T^'if ^J^ P^^^i^^ i^ which they Great Ksh^Eiver o?Tt S *«'^ ''1'^^ ^*^« ^^'^ *t« river would be hkelyj^^^^ ^I'^^ descending that did of what advante ^^ '' ^* fan^ wiihfeohn FrnSIr^' ^^. *i?-^^ '^^^^ °«°^. did coast of North So^pS i "" '^^ ^V' P*''^^ ^^'^ tt« wept themP hrw^ulXelv hZ ^T-^ ^''^P^^^ *<> ^«««t own party, ^IddtCe'; ob"^^^^^^^^^^ ^.'^ require rather than afford relief ff.nV^A ^''.^^V^? ^ what^ Sir John. Fr^klb a?^^^^^ experience, far better than Dr Ki^Th^f fi? ^'iTu'' impossible /or so inrap Ir^^f •^' *, * *' ''^^'d be .ttemio?Hor-.„!fl''-P'?,'"' P'- fc»g. "«» draw " \or ijac^ Kiver, as the high roa?' to r^ach it" ^ <* t,',A I If * 1 If' 166 PBOORESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY. Bp. King has twice propoaed to the Admiralty to proceed on the search by this route. " It would." he states, " be the happiest moment of my life (and my delight at being selected from a long list of volunteers, for the relief of »irJohnEos8,waaTery great) if their lordships would alloj^me to go by my old route, the Gr«at Fish Eiver to attempt to «ave human life a second tune on the shores of the Polar Sea. What I did in search of Sir John ^88 18 the best earnest ofWhat I could do- in search of Sir John Franklin." \ .-*-- A meeting of those oflBcers and gentlemen most con- versant with Arctic voyages was convened, by the Lords Commisioners of the Admiralty, on the 17th of. January, 1849 at which the following were present :—Eear- Admiral Sir Francis Beaufort, K.C.B., Captain Sir W. E. Parry. E.N., Captam Sir George Back. KN^ Captain Sir £. Belcher,, E.N., Colonel Sabine, K.A., and the Eev. Dr. ..4 ocoresby. A yerv pretty painting, containing portraits of all the principal Arctic voyagers in consultation on these momen- ?"/o ^^"^^«' V^^ "ade at the time by Mr. Pearse, artist, of 63,Berners Street, Oxford Street, and has since been engraved. The searching expedition under Sir James Eoss having returned unsuccessful, other measures of relief were now determined on, and the opinions of the leading officers again taken. Admiral Sir Francis- Beaufort, in his report to the ijords Commissioners of the Admiralty, on November 24 lo49, observes : — ^ •• There are^our ways only in which it is likely that the Mrebus an* Jerrpr would have been lost—by fire, by sunken rQpks. by storm, or by being crushed between two fields ot ice. Both vessels would scarcely have taken fire together; if one of them had struck on a rock, the other would have avoided the danger. Storms in those narrow seas, encumbered with ice, raise no swell, and coul* pro- duce no such disaster ; .and, therefore, by the fourth cause alone Could the two vessels have been at once destroyed • and even in that case the crews would have escaped upon the ice (as happens every year to the whalers) ; they would have saved their loose boats, and reached some part of the American shores.. As no traces of any such _gyentJiaye bpen found ^WMtny pwi^ tbo w Mho rc s,Tt may - therefore be safely affirmed that one ship at least, and both. the crews, are still in existence; and therefore the OPINIONS AND SUGGESTIONS. 16T Tpmnt where they now are is the great matter for con- Bideration. . \ •iil^T ^"^ T^^i "^^^ ^^® <»^®d them towards Mel- V1U6 Island, and then out to the westward, where it is therefore probable that they are entangled amongst islands and ice. For should .they have been arrested at some intermediate place, for instance. Cape Walker, orVat one of the northern dham of islands, they would undehbtedlv m the course of the three foUowing years, hare contrived some method of send^g notices of their position to the shores of North Somerset or to Barrow's Strait. T " ? I?®y ^^ reached much tdthe southward of Banks* JUmd, they would surely have communicated with the tnbes on Mackenzie Eiver : and if, failing to get to the westward or southward, they had returned with the inten- tion of penetrating through Wellington Channel, they would have detached parties on the ice towards Barrow's Bta-ait, m order to have deposited statements of their mtentions. '=" "^® e^^^r&L conclusion, therefore, remains, that thev- we still locked up m the Archipelago to the westward of MelviUe Island. Now, it is well known that the state of the weather alternates between the opposite sides of JNorthem America, bein^lmld on the one when rigorous on the other ; and accordingly, during the two last years, which have been unusually severe m Baffin's Bay, the United States whalers were successfully traversing th© Jr-olar Sea to the northward of Behring's Straits. The BMnesevere weatherTnay possibly prevaU on the eastern Bide 4nrmg the summer of 1850, and if so, it is obfioua that an attempt should hs^ now made by the western opening, and not merely to ^b^fve the two ships, if they Bhould be met coming out (ap formerly), but to advance in the direction of Melville- Island, ^resolutely entering the ice, and employmg every possible expedient by sledginir parties, by reconnoitring balloons, and by blasting the ice. to commumcate with them. . . "These vessels should be intrepidly commanded, effec- tively manned, and supplied with the best means for traveUmg across the ice to the English or to the Etissiaa *" ■ettlements, as it will be of the greatest- importance to be mtormed of what progress the expedition has made: and for this purpose likewise the P/wer will be of material -Jernce, lying it soTOfr adv a aeed poigt- BeaHfeyi^gpo rMror ready to receive intelligence, and to convey it to Petro- paulpuflki or to Panama. »^ *«v«,-, *>.-j 1.1 Si ?i I'm I f 1 >n> •' i>' '-^'.K/f" 168 PBOOBESS OP ABCTIO DISCOVERT. ! aie Ut of rSt tf 1 '""f' ^^^^g'« Simt before now made b feS thim'f;^ Tl 'F^^ '^^rddZ maa. They S waW afc^h"! ^''Sf'^.^^'^ C^*' again at the'^San§Sdcht4l,*^Lr^^^^ ^5^ pushed on someT«l^JeT^tt S^^I "^^^ ^« . Strait, ^d a^rdeS^omewwf^lSr'^^^^ westward of Banks' Land o7 ft ?u , ^P**'® «<^^tn. -' they, after the fi^t otbLi^^J^^ ^*\^'' ^^' «^<>«ld cessful in that ^ectLn 7?! """"^l' ^*^^ ^^^^ ^««c. proceed to the S&d Ith?r^yfl,^^'^\»S^'»Pt^ to Channel, or throJh some other of S^^^ Welfington the same group ^ islands tL }^^ openmgs^ among flnperior im?ortLce to Weilinlfl ??* °'^,'"^ »**^«^ ^^J north-west- pas^eb^T 5^^ ^}'^^^ aa regards thi Franklin di(f aTth-t IJ^r'^T^*^- *^** ^ir John Haddingtop is intentlL of Jf^^^^ ^ ^<^d should Si in^ eEnir f l?f *"^°^P*3'»ff that route, if he westward ""^ *^^ "'^^^ <^«ct passage to the the^l^l'tT'l^a^^ ^^ ^^*^^«*^ fo' three yeaxs. tofoury^r^foTK^^^^^^^ toe, flmce I had the hononr of ' "'^^ ^* .^as occurred to lordships, that, if Lb ni^li T^^'^S with their diminisLd to my coLsTderS^ "".^I^K^^ gradu^y tingency wlSsh if ff 1. u ?f "* ^3^ return to the eaatw J3 ?» ^ ^ P*"^ westward, or to expedient ; hi thTt^^f ' Z ^^*'^°»?tance« mi^ht ;ender ■ the ahips in the pastlL^^^^ q^»ttdng both Ijeen obviated ^ ^""^^ "^^^ ^^' miprobabfy haye expedient sSl Tp^ose^to Z f^J^^^F^^ it seems to me J^mely, by way of^K.W« ^f T^ ""^f^ directions j thest/ongesrCe) andXh^^^^^^ (to which I look with OPINIONS Airo SUGGESTIONS. jgj, leamg that openW S^t «H1] /^ST ^PP'eiension. * ensuing sprm/iT^fl^f f iT — ^'^^^^ search in the back"g th'J^CToLf o^K^thK^^ would naturally look foTsunnlllffA i? ?®"*'.*' ^^^re they Jn addition to tihe chance ofe- ^ ^^ ^^^Po^ted for them, thei^^. Porthep^'oseSTh'^'^'^^-^^T^^ftW by w/^ of Barrow's Ef IS^^^! P^'^^^^f ^^ search 160 or 200 ^ mighf fluffirbS'.^'^ smaB vessels of . Tieged for thtf naviffftion «mS. .l *^^^ "*''«* ^^ square James Boss's endeavoii^ So ^f .?«arly that which Sir the provisions, &c [eft bv?r/l'^ *^ ^^^^^ and as weU as anv ^S ma yte llS' •** J^^«^ I*«i-t. hood by the Mrih . P^^ thro\^h the with the hope of me^in^£T>',"' i^" ensuingjeason! or any of the p,^tieTwh?cl ^« v ^if ^'1* ^°". «^ «^« ^1^P« them. This Kpt hafne^^^^ sliips. and I clinff vfrv sL^X /I ^?^?. ™ade 1^^ effort might h^!ti:Zd1^^^l^'^:t^^^ «?»t «Tf aJ a portion of our people. ® "^ re8cumg||feast th^^e'Sable K^*^^' upon t^ei^ Lordshl'is assisted hTZsLTT^?r ^^f ""^'^ thepZ^: of the coast liSSwLdf?f;n'^^^^^ boats and baidars crnot^ffecr^vtwL^"P''.r''^ *^« tingency of pSs reach W^ **'''''1 °*^^*« ^^7 *te con- wherea/.the'^Ce'ofrSe"^^^^^^ ^^d'' be immenselv incrfe^^rl w'Sf- 7^^^' ^ ^t appears to me, coast. towarJi Ba?k^' K^'^^S'ivf^'^^^ on, clear of the least as might b^^rLt^t^M -^ ^'^-'^^ j j Lrae aeaaon^of 185 " "^^!LiJJLg4?!: B Htw^e ja >ronflrItr o«„,-^«"jr^. '^.^ ^^^ m this direction, witb Bl,J«a proper, equipped A™ « ot? feltlL^^J r 170 PEOORESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVEBT. witicipate an^ greater difficulties in this navigation than those encountered in other parts of the IJorth Polar Sea • and, even m the event of not succeeding in reaching Banks' i.and in the summer of the present year, it may he poa- ^f^^Jomakeauchmogreaa as to afford a reasonable hope ot effectmg that object in the following season (1851) Meed It 18 possible that, from the well-known fact of the climate being more temperate in a given parallel of lati- m tude, m going westward from the Mackenzie Eiver, some compar^ive advantaee maybe derived in the navigation of this part of the Polar Sea. " It is of importance to the security of the ships and of their crews that they should winter in some hw'bour or bay not at a distance from land, where the ice might be in motion during the winter ; and it wiU be desirable, should no land be discovered fit for this purpose, in the space at present unexplored between Point Barrow tod Banks' Ij&nd, that endeavours should be made to reach the conti- nent about the mouth of the Mackenzie Eiver, or further eastward, towards Liverpool Bay, where there is reason to suppose sufficient shelter may be found, and in which neighbourhood, It appears, there is generally no ice to be seen from the shore for about six weeks in the months of August and September. Sir John FranHin's Narrative of J Iif ^°?^ Journey, that of Messrs. Dease and Simpson, and the Admu-alty Charts, will furnish the reduisite hvdro- graphical information relative to this line of coast, so far as it has been attained. " The utmost economy should be exercised in the use of provisions and fuel during the time the ships are in winter quarters ; and if they should winter on or near the conti- nent, there would probably be an opportunity of increasing theur stock of provisions by means of game or fish, and likewise of fuel, by drift or other wood, to some consider- able amount. •j"-'^^,.^^® process of the ships in 1850 have been con- siderable—for mstance, as far as the meridian of 120° W — the probability is, that the most practicable way of return- mg to England wiU be, stiU to push on in the same du-ectiOTi during the whole season of 1851, with a view to reach Barrow's Strait, and take advantage, if necessary,, of the resources left by Captain Sir James Boss at Whaler Point, near Leopold Harbour; if not the same season, at least after a second winter. If, on tie other ha nd. smaU Twogresff should hare-tjeea mSde t6 the eastward at the close of the present summer, it might be prudent that when half the navigable season of 1851 shall have expired, OPINIONS AND SUGGESTIONS. 171 no further attempts should be made in proceeding to the eastward, and that the remaining half of that season should be occupied in returning to the westward, with a* view to escape from the ice by way of Eghring's Strait ' after the wintejiof 1851-52, so as not to incilr the risk of passing a third winter in the ice. " During the summer season, the most vigilant look-out should be kept from the mast-heads of both ships night • and day, not only for, the missing ships, but for any detached parties belonging to them"; and during the few hours of darkness which prevail towards the close of each season's navigation, and also when in winter quarters, signals, by fires, blue lights, rockets, or guns, should be made as tn6 means of pointing out the position q£ the Ships to any detached parties belonging to the missing Expedi- tion. And in the spring, before the ships can be released from the ice, searching parties might be sent out in various directions, either in boats or by land, to examine the neighbouring coasts and inlets for any trace of Hhe missing crews." Captain Sir GeorgB Back also comments, ^Ist of Decem- ber, 1849,) on these intentions, in a letter to the Secretary of the Admiralty : — ** Yon will be pleased, "Sir, to impress on my Lords Com- missioners, that I wholly reject all and every idea of any attempts on the part of Sir John IVanklin to send boat* or detachments over the ice to apy point of the mainland eastward of the Mackenzie River, because I can say from , experience, that no toil-worn and exhausted party could have the least chance of existence by going liiere. " On the other hand, from my knowle%e of Sir John Franklin (having been three times on discovery together), I much doubt if h^Muild quit his ship at all, except in a boat ; for any attelpr.to cross the ice a long distance on foot would be tempWg death; and it is too laborious a task to sledge far over such an uneven surface as those regions generally present. Gnbat great mortality must have occurred^ and that one ship, as Sir F. Beaufort hints at, may be lost, are greatly to be feared ; and, as on alj former expeditions, if the survivors are paralysed by the depressing attacks of scurvy; it would then be impossible for them, however desirous they might be, to leave the ahip. which must thw beffrnne thair Tnaf. mryt ftnanoilff abode. " If, however, open wiiter should have allowed Sir John Franklin to haye resorted to his boats, then I am persuaded he would make for either the Mackenzie Eiver, or, which i-^' ~\ ^ "i-' 172 •TOORESS OP ABOno DISCOVERY. painful caae deDenti on ftw^/i ^'^ t-uaaces ot Jite m this miseries and triils nf Jk! f^*^ preservation under . fenonsTrlpf^f^fdttwLrXr^^^^^^^^ . . despair of his finding the m!.«^i: ? '®^?' ^ ^^^o^ '. \ aidV happily sTnt hfm '' **" P'^^°'"^ existence tiU ' shore's* :>TrrcLX"o7^:^^^^^^^ - Bearched in a h^h ktftuf « ifZ"^ » glands should be tydrogr^pher. ! ^^ "" *^^ manifef proposed by the the ice mr??a;S^S?fc^^^^ ^^^^' detached^rer . f 8 to cross^tShne of se^^W.^^ has been able to pursueTJhp^^i \* " ^°P^^ ^'- ^ <^ determine wheC^^tJtaX* ^f^^^^ m locaUties the most rlii^^^l^ ^^'^^"^^ sbipa exist Lancaster SoSSd^d ?mm il "" B^^nng's StrSt and, would find the CT;ate8t dfZ ,f ^?^f ^^V^wf ecked cre^ where they coXh1;:^^3^&*--^^'^g to ^^ the MackeSiron thHslth- J'-^^^^ ^'^S^tude. On^ warmer than in anv af^J^-h?^'^^'^'^' *^« «u«^mer is : parallel, Td ft TstiU^ntr «?5 r^."^*^^"^* ^ ^^^ «^e Wia^t, on the banks of th« vi? *^^ ^fptatio^ more dian. This superiori^ of .H^XT'':, "^^ ^^^ "^^ri- ships ,jreU fortS^tinltSrci tion of the Arctic Seal more OTactfcabll in t *\^ °*'^^*- . taon than it has been found HL tstWaid ''^^"^ ??"■ I been^^e^S^^^i-^e^^^^^^^^^^ ^d the chief, Ws the oX^^^^^ Of anions ; ■7 *)► OPINIONS AMD SUGOE8TI0KS. ^ the ijt of Decembfrfr^'^:^*iff ^°> Cheltenliam, on hal stffi ^f^rjiSdt ^'^''^ ^^'rf-^ ii^ what he Franldin'8 sWpf mlj hayts^LSr'^'T ""^'^ ^ir j' with him and^^Sir Idw^d ^^A' f^i'^^ti^ely agree ifrobaWy hammered Sit^V*^' ^^rfPe^ti^is 8outh.we8tTirarSofM3vUirT-l««S *?e somewhere to the sibility whichdoes foSeS^tM^^^'^ « ^et a po.! wkdi is, that of the 8ci2?? hf^i^!° ^f^ contemph&d, and incapacitated i^'lSr^^ 'JP^?^ "^«°g *he crew^, J - any ex^on towards t&^vX^^ '"L*^®"' ^^m making . resonrces of the Aips woSjd h?™' it certain thSt, <» the John FranUin aYhirc«J^ I,. *"'■?*'''> May l„t, Sir «nd pushed for^'forX neIL°?*°'*™^ ,«>« -^V'.' ■mght reasonably expe^ vSL,?'"™* P<"?? ."ie™ *% reiisonably reach. «»«8tance, and which they c6.S- to thos ^ S^ait, Jftehring'i America. . * - — — *„«ciu txmaji rOt; "Of the .measures whioh nan i,« , ". '* northern coast of AmerirtheXi! T^?^^ *« ^^ t^e snence there, and ^HudLon'« S^ whohaye ha^expe- to iudge ; but I ^ of opi^on ?^?f^^^^^^ ^ ^e a&e neglected in that qZ-ter; ?Se^« f ""^^^i^ should be ' that Sir John Fr^l^anH S« ^^^*".8 *» m® ^^^st certain abandoned theL ^^a madf 7'^..^^" *^ *^^^«^ ^^^^ they^have not succSd?n Snlff^^'TT^^^*^"'^*' ^^ ^ posts, they have been ovpSS^i?^^ ^''^^"^ ^aj out- could accolaphsh tSp^'oee ^^ ^"^*^ before^hey upok u^Ts't'^etil&thllf^^^^^^ •ye^r b/thetime the rdieTrS - u ^f "*" P'^^^ *^aa ob»o.e.«„t a VriZ^i^^^^t ^Zlj'^t^ #^;i V > J u- -t 174 PROGBl^ bt" ABCTIO DISCOVERT. have been timely made to meet an emerffencv or m-eat mortalxty may have enabled the survivors to sS^sS ^ to the time required or it may be that the crews have fust miBsed reaching the points visited by our parties 1^? yeS before they quitted tlem, and in the dne cLe may^ow bJ subsisting on the supplies at Leopold Island, or b^ Wd m eastward of Point Barrow, stained by (fep6te wMch have been fallen m with, or by the native sSppUes so that under aU the circumste^cei I do not consKr thei? condition so utterly hopeless that we should give up the Jn^l ^iti'^^fl ^ P""^ ^<^^^^ might be continued until the 30th of August at latest, at which time, if the ships be not near some land where they<;an conveiSv remam. And on no account should they risk a ^ter in iX'of X c^t^'^^''^" ^' '""^ ^'^ -^ «^- -t- "^ ofW^r^W !^^ expedition reach Herschel Island, or any other plax5e. of refuge on ther coast near the mouth of the Mackenzie or ColviSe Bivec*. endeavours sh^d be mSe to commumcate information of the sWps' position a^ summer 8 proceedings through the UucfsonrC Co^ . pany or Eussian settfements. and by means of interpreter, and no opportumty should be omitted of gain?3m [he natives mWation of the missing vessefs. as weU ^ of any boat expeditions that may have gone fomaJd as^ell •as of the party under Dr. Eae. « ^"rwarq, as weu Ifi'^o'^^.rr^/^i!*'^^ ^? ^^^^ ^ Sir John FranMin in irll^f^ ? °^ observation should be sent forward in the spring to mteroept the route the ship would have pursued MelWuflBW ^tf ''^^^'^^^^^^^^^^ winterqua,?:r^'d Melville Island ; ^takmg especuil care that they return to tt Awf 'J ^' ^"^^ «^ \^«^^*i«« of the sSpTSv^ which greatly depends upon their locahty. ^ Ihen, on the breaking up of the ice. should anv favourable apnearance of tife iSe present iteelf X e^e^ dition might U left free to take ad?anS o^^^^^^^ prospect, or to return round Point BaJrow ; makW i? Hum Jl^'^T^' '''^^' ^ ^^~^« th^Te't^^^fi Jk-1 i^^^'li*"? °?.*y "»« exercised, or the oertinty S ^d -n"!!;,^^ MehrUle Wand at the close of that^,2)n >. g so secuiTiig their return to Englnn d Bhip. beyond the penod ooateintaated above, every exw should detain the , v»^ >^ OPINIONS AlH) SUGGESTIONS. 175 tion should be used, by means of boats and interpreters, to communicate with the Mackenzie; and should any casudty render it necessary to abandon the vessels, it should be borne m mind that the reserve-ship will remain at her quarters until the autumn of 1863. unless she hears of the safety of the ships and boats in other direc- tions ; whde m IJe other quarter, Fort Macpherson, at the entramee ^the Mackenzie, may be relied upon as an asylum* lUe I'lover, or reserve-ship^, fhould be provided with Uiree 3rear8 provisions for her own crew, and for con- tingencies besides. She should be placed as near as pos- sible to Pomt BwTow, and provided with interpreters, and the means of offering rewards for information; and she should remam at her^quaxters so long as there can be aay occasion for her presence in the Arctic Seas; or, if she does not hear anything Of the expedition under Cap- tain Collmson, -m long ajtr provisions will last." Sir John Richardson oBTrs the foUowing advice for this expedition :-^' ir he says, '^t should, wiatw near the mouth of the-Yucan or Colville, that river may be ascended in a boat in the month of June, before the sea ice begins to give way. The river varies in width from a mUe and a half to two miles, and flows through a rich well-wooded valley, abounding in moose deer, and having a comparatively mild climate. A Bussiaji trading post ha& been built on it, at the distance of three.or four dayd* voyage from the sea, with the current; but as the cufront is strong, from nine to twelve da^s must be allowed for its ascent, with the tracking hue. It would be unsafe to rely upon receivmg a supply of provisions at the Bussian post, as It 18 not hkely that any stock beyond what is necessary ior their own use is laid up by the traders ; and the moose deer being a very shy animal, is not eaaily shot by an unpractised hunter ; but the reindeer abound on the neigh- *>^unng hills, and are qiuch more approachable. The White-fronted goose also breeds in vast flooks in that district of the countir, and may be killed in numbers, without diflSculty, in the month of June. ''If the expedition should winter within a reasonable distance of the Mackenzie, Captain Collinson may have It m his power to send despatches to England by that "The river openi in June, and af iooii ai the ice oeaiei to drive, maji be aweuded in ir twitnHtra 1S& winl^ Q ■>1 under sail, or with a tracking line. " The lowest post at present occupied by the Hudson'i Uay Company on this river it Fort Good Hope. The n' ^.-^-.-..r^ 176 PROGRESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVERT. , ^^ItVt^^e'oXe^n^^^ several times, but it At Point SeparaS olio^te 5^;j**^^^.,^°»ti««ea. the delta of the nVw Td^n f^^^ "^'^^^ «^^°el of separates the Peel S t^e jCw- /^^^^^^ ^Wch pemmican (80 lbs.) b^ied t«n fc!f^- '.*^f ®. " * «a«e of ^hioh haa its Tddle Sht- loni?' ff'* 5^^ » *^«' on the trunt with ^ hroadZ^Z^^i?^'. ^^ " °»a'ted wasmadeoyerThep^tinwhirrbf black paint. Afire the remains of the cwll^ll Soinr \^?*°*^^^^ This hoard was visited l«!w ^T* ®^* ^^^ exact spot. there last summer for Se us« nf 1?' *S*^ 7'''^^ '«™ain might ascend the nVer in 184Q w^v^** P^^^«^ *I^at ' part, or the whole mil wf k ' ^"* i* ,*« probable that Bynextyear # "^^^"^^ ^^^"^ "^^^ by the Company of fish may oft^eTrocurS in?l,f TJ-'^*«^''^^ ^^PP^J of the Mickenzie f W shmSi ?] ^t^^' ^''-l^'^y ^aj' good supply of buik.sho7«^. u*l*'*>r^^<*ed iith a powder,*^^&e Ccheu^*' '7^^'^^*V<^^^^^ and gun' ^Ve-such provisions t'tt.eVlay^^^ ^^^7 change for ammunition. ^S w5f « Jf.,^?^' "^ f^" t^W. g^tuitously, as the/^^^^Ce^d ^ /o^S \h: ^afo^^Z^'c^Z^yt^^^^^^ ^^^^ -/ of the Arctic Sea. wTK^^f Jf ' .?*^i>^^ ^^bed from enters the delta of the MarC^'' ?! ^^^^ ^^^«'' ^bich procured ttier^ To ?he eas^w^^^^^ of^^ V^'' «J^be ship-party would have a oli«nnr5 {^^^ MackemS^no the^nearist to^i^7ea heiTv TZ^""^ a trading post. Slave Lake, situated on the fil J^ ^T^'P^^' ^^ G&eat the intervening ^UycoS^^^^ and lakga .and rapS rivIrs'^^S' not ^^.1^? ?]-^-- adv^s7b^eCf;'a;LZ'm^he \°^- P^^^' woiildTbe the posts on tS^^Z^eX^^of'^T '''"^^ Birer «nd Fort Confidanco .. L *?^ i ""^ Coppermine transport . ctom a^r Z.: f;]^.^';^'-''^ »f »>«?»- of Irregular sheet of watflr wrt«iuil ^r Jonrnov round thSf BearIaeBi™r"',r« ^^^'fl^^SSfe L_.- 4Ph- OPINIOXS Am> SUGomiONS. Sofab^^^^^^^^^ is thirty an Indian family or two to W "^^.^f'^^^'icted to engage between the C^ppermL a^^V''^ ?^*^^«* of coult^ «ummer of. 1850 ^Lt no grS? r^S..^'^^ .^«^« i^ <^ theae Indians remaining Wthere ^ fT ^I ^^^''^ «^ hunting quarters on verv sli^Sf „f ' ^ ^V^ desert their drea^ of enemies, reeloISXtT^' ^'"^^ ^ ''^^^^^ bank. »-rc iihixf^ '--"^^ ^' *^« driftwood much of wk'ch wVd remi^^^^^^ ^^ ' ^' "^ 'Another case was depositflH i!. S.^,''?''°"^^™ed. small battlemented chff S f^^\^^^^*^ ^^ ^ 'ock on a Cape Parry.- The o^^'^ltc^t^''t', '^'^'^^ Part of a pile of stones, PaintedlredTnT^v^r^^ ^^°«^ ^^o^es ; and diately ip front ofTTSsc1?ffJI-'V^ "^^''^^d iiLme- some points of view, and nroif^r',T^^^« ^ cocked-hat in base nf o ^«„^j_j 7J„'*"*t projects Jike a f;on«-n^ f ., some points of view. anT^r^ltriT'''^! ^ cocked-L_„ .„ >f pemmican werfi I«rf . ' „ j^^^' j-^^w, wi vie "Veve^d^^^^^^^ 5* or-6561i;it"ligr '"'^ of rocks in iSdf eTsTi? "Tni^^^ m Dolphin and Union S^f"J^^"V^^^^<^ I«la«d, ward of Cape Krusenste^a ami hn*.^^^ *^ *^^ ^^st: pemmican were deposited^dr. V-^f *?i*^^ Pieces of water «iark, without ^n^^lL^^^.^^^ %h. this part of the coast ar«w^*- ^^® Esquimaux on tion of thisho;Ln-^;:irsr^' "^t ^ '^ *wosT baye every reason to ^ervrthatT'Y^^*^^"^' bu<^ I visited by Mr. Rae in thL nast « ,1^ ^^''^l'^ ^'^ been larger size, near Cape Kend«5l bL T^'" ^ ^«Po«it of visited b^ Mr. Rae.'^ Kendall, has been more certainly 1850?!'" J. C. Eosa, writes f,.m Haslar, 11th Februaiy »Iand foi S i^?J^P^' or within h I. »^ou8iaer tk oe anywhere to the eastward of Mol'vnL*rT''*"i" '''^^^ ^"» 300 miles of Leopold Island for if H I ^'^^^^' o'* within would assuredl/dvingTe' wt ^n^i^'T ^^^ ^'"«' ^^^^J way to that pofnt. lith^ the h^ne^r^' ^''- ^ ^^^« ^^^^ from the whale-ships which for^l5 7^«»^»% assistance the denarture of that expedition f!!"^x7T« previous iio in t^eUitpf visiting See ti^ft^^^'^^ ^^^ been ri°^■",''^'^d in tJmt c„?e thov'±g..^^J"^ ^'^ Pursuit of marks ot their encampment W bZ f^^'^'i^^ ^^*b. or the numerous parties ^dotachedf^™?/''"^^ ^^ "ome of W,.a... along the shor^lf ^SS tnt^'^; rh^ « HI I h - -^T «^- I 17S PROGRESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVERT. * "It is probable, therefore, that durinff their first snm mer which was remarkably favourable for th^ naTtS of those seas they have ieen enabled (in obeSe to thezr orders) to push the ships to the westward of Bank? Land, and have there become involved in the heavy pack - . of ice which was observed from MelviDe Island Svs to Son I^^P""* itB w temmost point in a so2 eistXe^!' Siclte ttS :^$. P^^' *^^^ -'^^ -* ^-.^- able to "From such a position retreat to the eastward would b^ ^xt to impossible, whilst the journey to th^M^kenzie^ wth Sir Tnr??'^*r;?^T ?^y a^ccomVishment to^S with Sir John lFrankhn'8 knowledge of the resources in SL^^I-r.?-^^ ''' Practicability.^would stren^ea th? Ja tII'" ^?,a««^°??d as the present position of the :Erebm -^^JZTi! '* "^T^f "manifestly be f^ more easy and safe BehSni If -f '1^^ ^'^°« ^^ «^ expedition entering Jiehnngs atrait, than from any other direction as^? would not be necessary for the sh^s to depart bo L from nn aTlf ^'"*^ "^^""^^^ '^ to^ecludS their kTeS on theTv^r communication with tie Eussian settlemWs on the Eiver Colville, or those of the Hudson's Bay Com- paay near the mouth of the Mackenzie, whilst thJwhoTe space between any position in which the shinsmirrh? vnnter, and Banks' L^id could be thorlghly eSnedtv travoUmg parties early in the spring, or 6y KHiTeS Mr. W Snow, in a letter from New York, dated 7th of dftr^f '®'^' '"^^'^*^ " P^'^^ ^'' » weu4ani?ed expe ^? \ ■ J ®' instance, let a party of 100 picked men. well panied with aU the necessary food. scientifiS instruments dktelvTv t{^ r^ T ^r ^^P«ditions. proceed imme-' Ski t °«^,^^bourhood of the unexplored regioks. If Kse iirl^ Buggest that they shoEld proceed first to *h^Tu' ?/^ *^f Bouthem part of Hudson's Bay. and W rea^b'^"^ '"^t^ OhesteiSeld Inlet, or other^Iie by land reach that quarter, so as to arrive there at the open- m^of sum m er . . > rom t biR neigh b ourho o d lot the imHy, minus ten men. Ka Ai^A^A ;«*7v 4.i.__- . ,* y» minus ten men, be divided into three separate dS OPINIONS Am) SUGGESTIONS . I79 ^^^i^Ct^:^ ^^^ ^ f-^-d thai, ■' The ^estenimost S tL^ni T*^^"'^^'*^^^^ direction. direct course to fWl»f P^^^eed as near as possible in a made from Behriw! T^r""^?^ ^"^^^ o£ dlscoveiy yet sary, to the eastward. Let The centrd ;i2l'^t''''*''■ Pr^^^d^rhre?t"^'^^ ^^^^^^^^^^^^ ffenf'rXf ^^^fsternm&st division direct to Prince Be- f e eS and .of ,^^«*^^f ^^t Point of discov^f^m way of Moose Fnrf o,,^ +i^^ assistance be forwarded by terildSt and sW^fh^^ v' ten'men left at Ches- expeditiC^a^ f^L.A^ l^ "m''^''* ^^^ ^^^«^ such an that diroctior iw let "Ur ^^ '^-JT P»>-««»ii from each detacCent a« etpTrinnartL'^ T' ""* proceeamg_ by the Athabasca to the Great SlnvA T^lrl imd Mowing o u t Obt ai n Ba c k', din l ^ ;!:. mT,,^S' ana iQiiowing out (7aptnin mnV'g diam^irirn iT.L\..Z^j ing to the plan laid out for a priVS e^edStnltT oiy" 1 ti ~--H.- 180 PROGRESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVERy. ^ keeping the whole of their forces as much as Dossihlc atTSre'^" *'^ P"^*^ "^^^^ «"-- « "os'tTket «n!l^^^ of these three great divisions to be subdivided and arranged also as in the former case. The exDenso ot an expedition of this kind, with all the necessary outlav for provisions, &c., I do not think would be Se £ half what the same would cost if sent by sea but of tht T am not a competent judge, having noVefinitrmeaS to canttVer^'"''"- ^"* '^''' '' ^'^ another Td, I ST f J? ^P conceivmg, a more eaay way of obviating aU slferab^ '" '^'' ^'"^'' ""^ "' ^ed/cing the expense Ion "It must be evident that the present position of the Atctic voyagers is not very accessible. eitLr by land or sea else the distinguished leader at the head of the erp." dition would long ere this have tracked a route wherX the who e narty, or at least some of them, could ZtZ^ 18 oy, it i may use tha expression, forcing an --xBedition on towards themri^o^.V keeping it co^nrantf|uS^ and. pushing onwardT^here may fc, and indeed tWe ?bnr?7 great difficulties, and difficulties of such a VaC tm;l-tt' *feXr«^d themselv^ cause another S " fwl "^^r,5^^ WN^g of men. But. if I might make another bold suggestton. I would respectfu%^ f«k ou? fonvwT* "*>r'' ^^?^^<^ employ^icked L% from Austrd^a p'"S^'' "' f ^"^V^ ?^P^°"^g expeditions h^ Australia P Inducements might be held out to them • aS^^i?r? '"'' f^'^ ^?^^^ ^« «^^d- °^ost se^viceaWe auxiliaries. Generally speakmg, men convicted of offences are men possessed of almost inexTiaustible mental resources and such men are the men who, with physical powers of endm-ance. are precisely those required^ kt th?s Tspeak Mr. John McLean, who has been twenty-five years a partner and officer of the Hudson's Bay Company. Jnd lU published an interesting narrative of lis Xenti^es ani experience, wntmg to Lady Franklin from cJada West m January. 1850. suggests tte foUowing verjr excellenTpUn " Let a small schooner of some thirty or forty tons bur. den. bui t with ^ view to draw as littt^ waterJs possib iT apatchcd from England in company with the Hudson's OPINIONS. AND SUGGESTIONS. igj the mainland ; then XftrT? Southampton Island from and proceed oWS untfiuXrh*^^ obstacles. The party behiiiaS?^'!. ^J r^°»0'^t«,le > mend their remWff Stibnf^ '°.^r' ? ^^^'^d reeom- became practicable fhenthev^,,^^^^^ ^^'^ tr^vemng smith's map appears to L n^£ ^ ^ reference to Arrow- distant, th^enS«^>twoVX?'^*^-°^^^^^^^ would proceed east tho Jk.^ l^ °^ divisions, the one could b? devised of\^orw'^^^^^ t^ ^ *^«i^ ^e^s directioni and here a veX Ln^^'^"".^^ niUes in either i^s^t^^^lle^tS^e::^^^ -^1.^ be preparing snow-houses or ?&£ *^« ^^ of ment.the onlj lodging which tbT;i ^^7""*^' «^«^P- Arctic regions afforl SlSai^^r^^J* T^*^« «^ *^« hsh language sufficiently wSfte^n„i"**''^^^*^« ^^g- quent the^udson's sly Comr,a^vr' T P'^^^^' fr^- some of whom might b^indu^fH ', P^l* "^.Labrador, engage for the expedition n^^ ? S""'"^,^ ^*^^' ^^ope) tj natives might do so mo?e r! J?^*^^^ *^« ' half-breed' ,,Theyshoul|,ifpos:^rre stlji?^^ *^« aborigines. ' Wsmen, and not less than fnn^^' active mdn, and good the attempt to procure f^f« /? "" number. Faihng in should th4 EsSuSL mix r' ^.I'^brador. then I m Hudson's BayTtheZo In ^^ °^*^^^^^ «* Churchili; his first land exp^e'dfSon ^U fror^^^^^^ ^^ J«^ i« An expedition of th,«. IrT^^ ^.^'^*^*®r- vanous^srs of accomphSt tL^li?^^^^^ . ^here are must Mainly dependontwLf ^''t' ^^ ''^'''^^ of which^ may undertake the comm^dTfr ""^^^^ ^ffieerwho or that by Ileffcnt In^?^ •" ^^^.'^"^^ tie northern route Boss and^Simfson^^^^^^^^^ l^!^^' ''^'"'^ Sb SeJ son's Bay. and passinrup le W^f/^^^i' ^^^^ing Hud? or a^ain by ent^erin/chL e^]w n^W ° Kae Isthmus. ga m uig th e c oast h u 7 1 u..L ' ™».P^ W a ger T tilp t . ami ^*^73.T^„^^ t'J Back's or theTS-eat fS EiveT Bj either of thesi S,T„ . "' *"'* BiTOr7 mV»t bo made in Ko rtn fgoT' f' "' *''° «Pl«a'ion pomt, to be marched are ^^^^ ^^.Ts^.Tj^S^ # h i^^% ^^^gpag : 183 PKOGRESS OP AKCTI<> DISCOVERT. Twd Sifnllrtei? ^-"^T' '° that Lotion. Society vol. vi r^'!!^Krbefe:n "^ ^r^-^'^-«^ tlian tie one suggested by Sir John ?r i? ^ V^^Poaed a vessel to Wa4r Uivf^vIJ^ • -^^anklm, of sending thence in boats/' ' ^^^ '^"'^^^S °^ ^^^ «^ey from alluL^?n lif ?So t^^^^ ^'''''- P- ^^'-" The Doctor had made S the year 1828 a?'.?^''*^°^^ ^?^«^ ^« ^^w I ^^•esty (WiUi^m ly ) on ,t ^^^^^nd of his present Wytothe ^gSstion\s\fnror!i-^^^^^^^^ P^^tieu- W^er Bay. * « # T ,ti?.fP ^^^?^l°^ ^^°°^ ^4^e or narratives c^onnectedtihtSe sn^/"^ ^^ding of^aU the Eepulse Bays, and of SdwU PaTv-^"^ V ^" ^^^°^^ ^^^ wit^ the mformation obtained wS 'J^^?^^' *«ffetl^er Edward Krrv Sir iZn l?^ ^ J?^® Esqirmaux by Sir me in the>Sion thlf a sl'^^^^^^^^^ ^%k. -^m east of Point TMrnaffain to /hi Q? V ^^^^^^^ Hecla, would be Wt Sained tv «^ '^* ^l^^' ^^^3^ ^d from Waffer Bav tbfl nnSk ''^ ^^ ^^Pedition proceedmg think, beXtheTdstU^^/;? £^^'f^ wbieh^.amIot?f the information receded brtS'*!'^^"' ^"°°^ *^^ ««^ if can be depended on^' ^ *^^ above-mentioned officers . ' -n^'^r^i'^So^^^^^ ^tt-tion to Jones' of th.e to theirfrS^ri'nS ^nt^V^f ^^ westfm^a^ bf Sd rftrL^'^^"/^^*^^^^^^^^ - "h^ •J^orthlJevon.^ ll^prSnP^/'^^?.^ ^^ *^^ ^^^^ called these Sounds shoufj KSerfor T '? ^"'^ ^^^« ^^ of stones, under which onZlT r /^^ ^**^®« ^^ Piles have been deStTd cont^Pn^ cyhnders or bottles may ings of theSingird r^^^^^ proceed^ ^:^:^^ -^^ ^^ oS^eTtrth^fK-^ ^e^'^Z^T^io^^^^^^^^^^ of the tion. " "^® ^^^^^ ot the missmg expedi- - ^£S.l g^|°gS ax. hpr. ^ n.m.n J.d tLat , ing party out. at tKntraLe to tif "w ?r ^^ *■"> «»""''• OPINIONS AND SUGGESTIONS. 183 tti*tfi^nel and the northern shores of the Parry Islands mighrre explored as fax west as the season woufd pS of. But should the ship be enabled to look int^Ws' Sound, on her way to Lancaster Sound, and^&td that opew free from ice, an attempt might be madTby the ChanS?^ f'fu*° P"'^ t^^^^^ it into the WelSgton S»JS .^,^*H event, however, of its proving tf be rj^ ^ .T '°i'*' ""H^ * «^«^* ^^^"^y ^o^d be sufficient to thpfcf ' t^ T^^* ?""^^P« ^^ i^ '^^diness to pick up the boat on its return, tor conveyance to its ultimate des° tmation through Lancaster Soilmd; or a*tf^Cecaution agamst Miy unforeseen separation from tk? SuWdeDdt for the boat to complete its supphes from, after a^c^. phshmg the exploration of this"^ inlet, and to afford the roT;/.?°'P''^'-^ ^'"™ ^ ^^^^'i period of the seaaon or other adverse circumstances, of reaching some plac? of refuge, either on board a whaler or some oSe of the dep6ts of nrovisions on the southern shores of Barrow's StrS salg. ^dTJ"^"^' '' *^^ ""^'^ ^^«^^^-' ^^f-« Jonp?S,.T^^ ?^'^^ ^^ obtained. I would examine Jones Sound, as 1 have generally found in all my eaSv Ts Ta:iTt7tt/. '* *^^?^«-^ of tl^at sound. aniS 18 a probabilitvthat an earher passage by this route miabf be found into WeUington Strait, which outlet ought ^y^^ means tobe thorpugmy examined at the earliest opportSty sinqe. If Sir J. Frankhn has taken that routo. with the We A^r^A^ passage westward, to the north of the Parr^ and Melville Islands, he may be beyond the powe^d? helping himself. No trace of the expedition, or prlctic^ ^mmunication with WelHngton Straft. befng obtSt this quarter, I would proceed ifl^time to take advantage S the first opening of the ice in Lancaster Sound, with the riew of proceedmg to the west and entering Wei ington Strait, or. if this sSould not be practicable, of proceeS Sw nA'-Tf *^ Cape Walker, and befond.^one of other of which places Sir John Franklin will probably have left some notices of his course." ,. ""-"ij' nave The Government has seen the Went neces^Jfv nf causmg the Wellington Channel to be^^efully^xamLd imperative orders were sent to Sir James Ross to^S It, but he was drii^d out of Barrow's Strait against his S^ ^bofarej i fi receiv e d tho ao o r dois hr-^^mA Star ^^^^ I h ave already stated that Sir JoBh Franklin 's instructions directed him to try the first favour;ible .openbrr to the south-west after passing Cape Walker ; and Lhng is that! .84 PROGRESS OP ARCTIC DI300TEBT. second probability iS Lour KW"'i£''?°"«'- ^e ^^op4sf^^rES?i!-" . seemed to offer the Jbest ohanoTTsucS ^" m the service •■tCSL^r^f ""X ^ "'"' '''«'' ^'•'- "nd not been himself predisDoq^rl f^i^/ i T- ^"Llfo™ liad . for the^uccesS acSsCent'^of tL™" 1'^'^ «"""« ■sage. "Settino- a«iH« ""^kf „., ° north-west pas- ■ e^tence oSn^^n land th?!;U'Krrt'''"'y "^ «« existing to the n„rt™of the pZ^lSt 1T °P^° "•" c»tjng with Behrinff Strait „™, -.''"'' '*'°«"™- analogical reasoning" i„5'' ."PP'ara to rest on strict to eflfct the nSt^,t °^ '^''"' ^ ^i'- "«U the attempts • first passed fn mT wCS' TT ^^"'^ ^ Wt wal- no difficuiiies wSSr rthe^SLr L'^rVo?'.^'^''^? ^y^o™ to be tlie ca-.« C £ ^ 1^;^ ,?° ^f°S^' ^^^.ff as by strict ana.og;rsad"be'j;aS^ w - A PUBLIC AND PRIVATK REWARDS OFFERED. 185 reasonable , to SosetLrr«£*^^^ ^^ '^ i« but >i8 opinion.^! ""^ ^^^^'^^ ^« somewhat guided Sates cX^S'^S^^^ l^self,Colonel ■ and we myst rem^ber t W P "^^""^^ *^i« Po^nt, named thik chanTef hL no^^^^^^^^ discoverei and ;>f CapTwalZranfc^^^ Jost e jition to the west . Land is only 301 miles am?S, ^Tif ^*^^ *^ ^^^s , be seen th^wTere dL dop?7^'*^^^ to a chart XriU approach 80^7 to thp !„w ?^ American conti^nt Expedition t;' t^e supposed position of Pranklin'a summer se::ra pttio'ofTMs d' ^'"^^ ^H^ «^- versed in boats. ^' **"'' distance may be tra- beingNig^lf r :o:^Zf^7:riIT^^"^ *be ice Cape>fhurst! ^d iXms l^thi' ,^^«^^^-i« ^^i^er to seen .^ ice to seaw^rdZtwrmtus ''' ^^^™^^^ ^^^ BathtsT^S^i^S b'rrtet''^ ^P^^^^^- ^-P-^ of Franklin marbnxpect^d Tr 'SS^ • ^^J^^^"^ <^^^^^^ a second party hi desnSw f. o"* atgisable that such that the prosJcuLn of Dri??^"" ^^P' ^^*^"r«t, in order may in no wav be intpWvJo7 i!;^ u ? • Victoria Lands calfed to the w Aa^d " '^^^' ^^ ^'^ ^"^^*^«^ being a"'/ "?^- ""^ ^ ■•As these O^i^ehlZ^Z^^L^ t '""^ that would have been ™,^fl? i, embrace the course Cape Walker b^t^nLPTtK ^f^ Sir John Sraikhn, instructed to S for 1,* ' ^u""^ H™ P«*i»«lW immediately on tt^recelXftS^TeH^t^^^ *>" P'°»"«* exploring pirty to prSin t^r^'^'' '" ^1°"* motter Summer, which vartv hpsi^i^o A-^ "^^^ tollowed laat iop^«5ffilhe expedilion topScoed toward. ^or two smaU parties shoufd be les^Sed OPINIOtt AND SUGGESTIONS. 187 their explorations in^ thaf nvi«S! iTm .f ^^*' carry on • down the Mack^zSmth??r«l f'y,'"^'^^ ?? «*^^' going ^ the Youcon. A?d th^ fn^T.! r^^ f ^*^ *¥'**^ **'^'»rdf to offer rewar£ to fh! If ^'? "''^* *^o be instructed aU direct^n^' ''^*''''' ^ prosecute the search in A i cZ^eofZeTeTso^^l ^^"^° ^ «-- *tat i. the «r*|^oa3tandthefs5a^ir,rt"^^^^^^^^ w^ ** From vonrpvT.oTi;«,. ■_ a .. % zie, you will have to spl^nf fl„«»! ^^"^^^ ^J tli© M^oken- «ervice within the d^sW'l *'^"'''? ^/ *^« Company's the duty : S^Mu^ay I ff,y ^PP,T><^ qualifffor for one of the iSeTf^nd K'/'^'S t ^^"^ ^* ^^^ Eiverror even Athab^a bff^^X''r'^? Maete„zi« ioe. to forward them Sd^:**:!^ «"= ''■^'^"'g- "P of the '^abletemto ro™feTioS^ *°° /" ^^'^"^ *» ling, Mr. BallenS"7&elV t^'T^L^e'hf ;^'''^f ^i-^ofeiSSrlSr"-?""^ /"^^^ ' L il It tf \^ -.^t;^ -*,-■;.. X' ^ > f. ■ Ax. >.a 188 (>'■ PBodfSESS OF AH^IO MSCOTERT. : "^m<...^.. l.j Eear-Ad^i^l SirFr^ Beaufort, aiiother set XesselsTo rir^'l^ ^^ equipping side, through Baffin's ^r^^H^^r^ ^° the opposite any of the suppositS TnfT^^i'''' P^^^^ ^^ ^^^^^h. by ^\f^^fl^^^^^ bepn putrorward. it L -itlTlei^Jd stroll ^MsSrSt'' ^'''' ^^« -^«'- edly xna4e^ the dS'n of MeltS TsLTr^^'^^A*" " the westward Tf fmiz.;i • ,f I. ^^® ■'^^^ancl, and not to hauled to Z soV:td, Zd''fsinTZ>yi''r'^^ baiTier affainst tht^ T,/^*fl, • , » -oanka liand as a westing ITer it^ee fedl? T wr^^.*7 *^ "^^^^ were fSund closed aeSnsfiii^of' '^ H**" ^^ *^««« ^oads Jiimself of one of tfe four L- \^' P'^'^'^P^ ^^^^ed Islands, including the WeIlF3'ch;^^^^^^ X^' .^^""^ he may have retumpd f o S^ (channel. Or. lastly. invi<^.^penin/:^^^^^^^ Bay, and taken t^; • amintd beforeXs'e^c'h rM" '^ f ^^-*^^ - only method of rSw tLf ^^^ complete, and the efficient wiU be throSf^ *^«t e^'^i?''*'^^ P^™Pt and useless expense ^d rf i^t^ Ta^ ^^ '^"'^ '^hife only the best eflbrts^f 8H^Hn* ^rPP^^^^tment wUl attend «urW.ors /fTe losrlhTps.TtllT^^^^^^^ England, in equal desDaip W.7«- ^ *««'■■, relatives in . eteam re Jhe woX"not £™ £ n r^S^d'Ty^ and swept out of fliA qf-oj^ i^ oeen surrounded bj/^ce protection orLeopold I«S' i?"* ^^ "footing undorfth^ till that fatal fiefd ? J 15' i«7«^W have waited Aere ' then wouldWefouJdaKi^ '^" ^'"*^'^'d' ^A^o T«l«n^ "^ ^^ '^^^ * perfectly open sea up to M f^lvJi screw; but the screw or paddles of any of ^ OFFICIAL BEPORT OF ADMIRAL BEAUFORT 189 must await tfe cmsn? Wo ™« i -^'"V '^^ ^^«««J be as strong asTood Ld iron^'^^'^"^ ^f^' *^7 °^^* steamer sUpsourofthSre^hStlfir^"'^''^^**^^ . the shock is past and tEn V.^^ coUision, waits till ' recoil, darts at^o^cVtLouth^J?^*'^^ i'^ *^^^ °^"tual thoroV acquatattce w1§i all L'rylte^rir'of fit ^^ .' i 190 PBOGEESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVERT. %. Plisliment of the ereat ^W? « JT^^« *^e accom- Inland, and indeToV^te^Sa^1,f ^^^^^^^^^ and judgment will be re^uh-ed L fh'.^''^ feat prudence manders, tigroid bein/drsablpd W n^^^^ ^^ ^^^^^ ^om- " I woulFaJso add a^ an exception ^I'^A?^^^ ^^''''''^■ Island and Cape Walker i?^nF.'uf^' T-*" ? *^"^^ I^eopold mmedpriortoany atSbe^^^^^^ ^^^^^ ^« e^a- directions from iBarr^w V StrSf «^i *» Penetrate in other ' Begent Inlet, about tZpeUvtu ^^ ^^u^ }^^ ^^^t^m of unexamined. In the tSri^ 5""^'' '^'^^d not be left lordships on irth J^uS^^sS^"^- '""^"^'''^ '' ^ sidered of importance aS^I«i;^:,i?''^^'^?^r ^as coaL^ Sir John Franklin abiidonerll^-^'^ of opinion, that, hM^ America, and much ^ort of th^M 'i'^'^' *^^ '^^^ won d have preferrSi the prfbalmtv^J^T^^^ ^^^^^^ of his boats until he founS relief In p '^*^^°»«ff the use ^sting an overhmd journey t'i tL tT ' ®*='^^^' *« nver; It must be remembered Ihat at fJ. l-'^-T ^^^^'^^d > Sir George Back's discovery had rpL. ^''•.*™*' ^^ «^i^*^d, that Boothia was an isW^ ^ rendered it very probable be.;trh'iirj^b^^irS^^:^ ti^r^^^^ — ^ have reached Fury BelT^nh-of^ *5?* ""^^^^^ he would but think there Wl vet h« fn ^^- ^^^ever. I cannot the Esquimaux Iketcr^dlh^t th"^" ^"^ ^'"^^^^ ^^ misunderstood; andZ Mr u'cn^^'^^^'''^ ^«* heen person, whose name has aWXT''^ I' .^ ^^nterprisinL^ «hip8. I would submit whS^A'\*''^^'^*^«''^«^^^^ Leopold Dep6t, undTlIs dir«.ffn ^^^dition from tonl^ set at rest ^ imn^u^^\l'''^^ ""^^ ^'^tisfac- quarter unprovided for "^^ ^^ *^^' ^^^ the only "K^i^A- ^'/^ states :- be renre'/ShXS'oVM^V'.? TP ^^^ ^^^^uU I^d, including LiZt o^ and Banks' nation of Well^gton^^ald jfThi^tK^^'W^ "^»"^i- ings between the ifllandTof Thol-i^ °^^«^.«"°aar open- • I entertain a growinrconviction S tT ^'^^"g ^7 °ame. . "llffmn y B hipn jm _i i„„"l ° of the pro hahJl fy of th. i OPINIONS OP ARCTIC VOTAGEES. I91 orders with lev tv ■ whilh. ^.""u" k " ■"'*? *" t'«^' "« he msht personallT mtoS^ Ii ^?* *? ^^ notions instruetionsf whTch L went' ™''r ,,*" '''^ /d^iralty reasons I can scarcelv Hnnl^f +i,„+ i, "^"ject. j^or these two seasons. Z fSf lf« td 18S"in """'''"^ "■ '^»^' have lately receTved from ^^^^ strengthened by aletter I Artillery of Xh I had tni ^^ Slikno of the Eoyal Sir Frauds Barin^.^ Colne? thZi"" '^^'^' " "9^^ '^ •two successive expeditions to &^« ^^""^ accompanied FranU^ milt 5"'"^P* ^ Penetrate westward Kohn route, either tLnrrh Vi^l,wf a J"*^, » more northern ^■u ■ ^ 192 PROGRESS OF Arctic discovert. attached t7Jones'So"om?^^^^^^^^^ ^-^f. ^^^3?^ ^«'n recently navigated K W nn/ .°* ^*? ^^^^ ^een and found to Be of ^I^Ja^KT /''^^''JP'^'''^ ^^^aler, from the westwardfand Si nn ^7 ''\r*^ ^ «^^» mast-head in that diecttn If « ^^^d visible from the therefore, that it mav be founfu n "^^ ^^"^ ^^^° probable, linffton Strait; so tLt if Tr T ^''S^'^T**^ ^^*^ Wel- been detained anywhere to fll^ Franklm's ships have Islands, it would KIt H n^^^i^i^ard of tTie Parry bably endelvour to X^T' ^^"^^ *^^* ^^'^^^W ml less direct'^Joute of B^owVffi ''t^/ *^^^ ^^ ^^^ attach much importanfp^ fT ■a*'^ J ^"^ ^ot myself having so fS. J^fraced hi« Jin '^""V^ ^'' '^^^'^ ^'^ildin Lancaster Soiid ^d rppn-JfP' ^u^P ^^^^^ ^^^k through^ ing Jones' S but T'"^^'^^'-!'^^^^^^ byentel-- bis escape through this fi^^^^^^ ^^' attemptmg somewhat vague) of a cJr?.? f ' ^""^ *^^ ^^P«^*^ (^^o^gb whalers on aTeUand wShin iJT' ''? ^^ «^^ ^^ *^e it highly exnedi'pTf^n flu • " **' ^^^^^ *<> me to render aearcYly'bTprU^ated ^thlr ^" -^-1- -ccessful various opfnion?havT£i^ ?;^f^°^««t confidence, very either that the shirwere C b!^ ' ^''"^^^^ave supposed Sound, or that Sii^jZ Vr«ir « !5-^'^"°^ Lancaster barrier of ice in the entr^?« f f ^''^'"^ '^ impassable bave sought fo? a „ J^L^ fif ''^ f ^?«a^ter Sound, may not feelSned to o^JT f'^''^^ *^«"««' 8o"nd. I do When w^^Ssid^ tCst^^n to?.' *V^?^' conjecture . calculated to re5«fc ^l ^ffe^fftb of the jFrcAw* and Wo,-. navigating fiX'sBa! ^ '"''T'* V^'''''^ ^ ^^^^^ «bips conj^nctioVw^\he ^^Tat^^^^^^^^^ ^ 'f '^^J^^t, L bave been cijished or ^tndo ' ^^ ^ "If ^ whalers which E^^E^^^a^s^ OPINIONS AND SUGGESTIONS. 0th li* --""is.oijojfS. ig^ thftt^r;,rto?;S,ttr''- '« »»<" believe pared for eveiy emSCT ^tl, Tk '^'""f ■"»■)» 'C S «■» fcg» of the ^hSlei n I?"easter Sound. K wien once they We rncSedin'^""^-^" '««™ 'kS conspicuous landrnw-k «m^^i 5 '^^^ ^« ^^ erecteT^! to the supposition that Barrow'.% ^^' * ^^^'ong support as when fc W. E. Pa«.y St l'^^/-^^ ««openin^ffi' reason to believe. J^ed b^i« ^^^■''^' ^^^<^^> there is set of the flood tides.Ts ca^JS P'""^"^^^"^ ^^^de and Jhe -—.*i«,j -and westerTv oD^ir,„ w i ,', ^ flBdihg the Wned a northern JaZ^e^ blocked by i„, t, ^j^Jj 7 -^^^^^ 194* PROGRESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVERY. mil gency, especially when taken in conjunction with Captain ^ nautical questions, further thaa 6y remaxkinff thTrS use of the smaU vessels, which fori^~?lir FrLdI Beaufort s. scheme, is supported by the success of th« ear y navigators with theiV very smaU craft and the Ut« - gatot exploit of Mr. Shedden.^in roZS icy clpe Ind « f Barrow in the Ifancy Dawson yacht^ ^ ^ ^^ - ' nf fir 5!?',*^^''' V^^ ""^^P^^* *° *^e comparative merits of the .paddles and screw 5n the Arctic seas, I bL^ve riV^'r''r^'*^^""« ^ the screw'isSSiersId ^,^^*^^/t wil contmue to act, irrespective of the tempe- ratiire of the aar ; but when, as occurs late in the autSSn. n^iJT^^^^''\'^ suddenly cooled below the freezing point of, sea water, by a northerly gale, while the sea itself remains warmer, the paddles .dll be speedily cW - by i6e accumulating on the floats a^ they nae th/ouaf' air in every i^evoKition. An incident recorded bySip James C. Eoss furmshes a striking illustration >df the powerful action of a cold wind; I alfude to a fisKaving • been thrown up by^ the spray against the JjSiTs of the Terror, md firmly frozen there, durim^ir^ale. in a hio^ southerly platitude Moreover, ive^th ^the dd oK ready contrivance for topping the piddles, the fl'atness ob hollo wness of the sides of a paddle steamer renders hep less fit for sustaining pressure; the machinery is more in the way of oblique beams for strengthening: and she is less efficient as a saUmg vessel y^rhen tie st^am is let oflF." Memorandum enclosed in Dr. W Cormick's Letter of the 1st of January, 1850. "In the, month of April last, I laid before my Lords Commissioner of the Admiralty a plan of search^for the missing expedition under the command., of Captain Sir fnH S^^??'^^"' ^l °^'r ^^ ^ ^^*<^ expedition up Jones' and Sm ths Sounds, volunteering rnys^f to concfuct it. In that plan I stated the reasons which had induced me to direct mv attention more especially to the openin^a tll^'l- .?'^'^ Bay. whicl. at tie time wC^g M^j? n'^'*^''' *^® geperal s^eme of search. ,'« • f l^^*?,"" Channel, however, of all the probable open- ings into the Polar Sfta^ noaaftiagftQ fKa k;™i.:.„*^ j , v- mmummm J •^ OPIMOKS AND SUCK^ESTIONS. 195 Enterpriie and ZSL w ^,^^ M^yest/s sW Barrow's Strait Xlf 2^nit? ^°^P%«d at the timefn ttis inlet and Cape wX? ?! ^T^r ^^ examining points of search TtKw^ f *J^ "^««* essenti^ ■terror to the we^twtd h.^ ^Tf^ ^^ ^^« ^^«^«* an^ threshold of L entrt-^l« f "^ *^^«? r^*« at the very- would take hTdepSre LtTl^'^t'''^ ^^ "^^^ ^^^^n whether he shap^f rso^Tw^.^^''^ *^ ^^ ^^«^«> latter, or attempLd tL p^strinf {• l^^f -^"^^ the the former point. Passage m a higher latitude from and ^he ^tfanl "t, ToT^'""^ ^^^"^ ^^^ ^pold, alike unsuccessftd *S^ thefr J \^*'^"^^^^ Biyer,\,oth ^ gallant Fr^lin and hi^ll '^''^' ^*^'« the fate of Sie ever^^f^Se J^e stand^^^^^^^^^^^ "^ Foblematieal^' ^ agpf the woi [B yet t^ Sif P'^^^^'^^y ^ ^t did two yean, ' -^ Je accomplished ^ ^"^ ^'^^'^ ' ererything remais to - wo';& bTrj^4iitd"rtoi*\r"^^^^^^ «P-^' -- not only by BelSint's Straff I }^ '"^ ^^ ^^her way, For the difficulties ^atteml«^f' ""• ^'"^'^ *^^ eastward form so insupS e fb±er to J?^ ^^^^^^ation, which would be readily su^o^^S k t^e progress of ships, which the coast liLmrbTnL ?^ ^''^^'' ^7 means of stones, under which S.^T^t ??^^^,^^*"^^^^d for cairns of bitably deposit memo^^^^^^^^ would xnosfSdu! posxwjs opjortuS: mig't'offr" "^ "^ P'^^^^"* of our enterp^risSg't* ^^^^ Zf' ^'1*" '^' '^«^«« winter clojsei^upoi them E5%i'^\^°*?.^' »«d sixth and the time hJlltv^'ur^^lA r^^^,^^ ^tUlin existence; , " In renewing once moreThLff''' abandoning hope. ' I do, most chefrS?n sL no rL?^°7 «emce8, which opmions I enterteiJ;d la?t 8onW^^« i '^"^«^'"& th. have only tended to conSm tlfem ^ 't H^nT* ^^^'^t. I do so still, after a lon^ /«^ If' ^ ^^^^ Believed, and . subject. tJhat' Sir^ohnTriTs^nrr'^^r^'^^ ^^ *^« m a high latitude, and be^fl^ t hfr ^^^^ ?««^ arrested ward of the Parr^ Sand« 1-^ t^T^ ^'^^^^ ^«« ^orth- thither has beenthroS thtw^ir "" ^'^''^^^^ ^^^^«« ^ of ^ the Sounds at ^ ^t^SS ^ter .V appears W^ ' to 'h ^ mtr c mity o f Baffin's Bay. O 2} « "bsence of the searching ■ co'mtr^o^ brfc?d'rLrt^*°""' ^-^ co-operation in furnishing !-„Si v "'*5 Po^rfol Ae/for the part^ tSl^,?t. • T^*™- "'^ P''«"ni''an, be qmte sufficient, with a croToKaf^^l?.^I7h' ■ '4:"" ».tV " t '^ >■, OPINIOira AND SUGGESTIONS. 199 ^■'-'^ffit'/' ?^^?^? boatmeilj the latter to be engaged at wttetS&u'a^^^^^^^ "Should such an expedition even.fail^in its-main object -the discovervof the position of the, missing ships Ind at'm^Sh^r ^ 1-^-f ^t-fof Pola^ passage J.j be (Signed) B. M'Coemick, EJf . " Woolwich, 1847." * Cop2f of a letter ^m Lieutenant Sherard Oshorti to tU iMrds Commtssioners of the Admiralty. " Haling, Middlesex, Uh January, 1850. V^^I^^^^^'TJ^ "r?""^ .^**®^P* *° reach ^ir John Sri w ^^edition being about to be tried during the present year, I take the hberty of calling your attention to the enclosed proposition for ai overlanf party to be de^ patched to the shores of the Polar Sea, witt a' view to .^A-Sr^''^^^ ?^ t-^^* ^'^^^'^ ^^*^^e^ Cape :6at-hur8t and Banks Land. My reasons for thus trespassing on » your attention are as follows : ' f "^s "" 4A.l'f"^^f .-^^''^SinP"^^'' t^^^ *^« l«s* expedition to the 'island '^'^ ' an(f south of the latitude of MelviUe ■ ;■ Tie distance from Cape Bathurst to Banks' Land is only 301 miles, and on reference to a chart it will be seen that nowhere else does the American continent approach '"".f Sf;,**"**^^ supposed position of Franklin's expedition. 2nd. As a starting point, Cape Bathurst offWs great advantages ; the arrival of a party sent there from England ' may be calculated upon to a day; whereas the arrival of Captaan CoUmson m the longitude of Cape Barrow, or tnat ot an eastern expedition in Lancaster Sound; wiU depend upon many uncontrollable contingencipj. The " distance to be performed is comparatively Httk, and the certaintv of bemg able to faU back upon supplies offers great advMitages. Captain Collinson will have 680 miles ot longitude to traverse between Cape Barrow and Banks' Land. An Eastern Expedition, if opposed by the ice (as viL w '.f''''^' been) and unable to proceed in their nn fnif q'5'n^' -1*^? Leopold Harbour, wiUliave to journel ^ foot 330 miles to reach the 1ongituda^^Ri»ai- Tomd. and iTanv accident occur to their vessels they wiU^TS^ *^.?oi'^^l^ position as those they go to seek. drd. Bankft Land bears from Cape Bathurst N 41° 49^ "^ I' . i . f ■ 200 l.i? ,^;?"'pt*l<>P Wrio DISCOVERT. 6th. Every mile toarereod norTi^ j v'''° ""oiis. Cape. Bathuret would beOTOr tw'*''?"'' ""y • Portyfrom . *™V The caek^s of prorisS „ j ^ ^f westward. . of the Mackenzie and.at S» n T^° " difterent points Jf ty to pnsh down tolleXarH^;""^''. ''?"''' »»»We » ntv direolJy the Eifrer Sli„ ■ '^ P"'"* "'«> S«>at cele- <^tl as Miy. " -Maokenzie opens, whiehiay bV as «;dZf wtvSd^r^ K ^r tl» *■"" "-e proposed ^^westerl/d.S';fa-S?e^B»^J^/-;a In conclusion, I be^ f^ nff Wds the execution oTth^p?^' S^ i^^^ services It from no selfish motives hnAi?^^^'^.?^*^^ and seekmcr Its feasibiJitj, jou l7;est Istur^^^^ W the honour of be W sent "^^Z' J?7 ^^^^ds. should I ^^" ^ot disappoint you?^e4,?etaK. ^'^^^ '^'^^^' ^-* I /Q. ,, "liave, &c., ^"^^/ofa letterfrom Colonel Sabine J? >l . ^ " There can be little doubt iT '*^'^'^^^'^' ^850. "^ any one who has reTd atw' i""^'^^' "^ ti^e mind of and (in reference TLtuol'lf'^^"^'' instrSonsf the ice and of the navSSj/w^f description of the state of route which he w a^^ggg ^.^^^^^.i^lgan^ inlhj . Iff • f: OPINIC SUGGESnONBi 201 O^rysluppo^n^^^ ti^t Franklin liiswayiotLsoutwS^nfT^^^ ^^e made 1846 or 1846. It C been sSd JLmL'^^" ^'^"^"^ ^^^^^'^ i« able season and Z ' + kI • ?•** "^^^ ^'^s a^ unfavour- • Baffin's Bay Zs n^ Jt Stl"^ "^ ^'^"^«' ^^^^ a^d more Prpba^^ thatTm^ W^^^^^^^^ ^^^-^d it an gres^ heVould ba^rfeft memoH^l-'- '^JJf^^^^^^S ^^ ^i« pro- Places wbere he mZ W S .? ' "" the usual manner at likely to faU in tbe^ftt nf *^^'*' some of which would be ' Fro^ the wes^^end oT4fviSeTr 1°""^?^^ ^^ ^^^ ^^^^^ his, further proceec^n^ S I ^^ """^ mferences as UT being continlent on the st^te ^^^^^ more conjectural, of navigable^ water in the l.fl?'''^^^ *^^ existence the oce4. as we dTd co^ere^^^^ ^^ ^« ^«"^d as the eye could reach fi^^ ^v. ^ west and south, as far liills, with ice of « Ihff ^"^ *^® «^°^* of the hiffhest of th;Tirs:I\twoS?X^^ ^^ ^°-^ «tter%t one whole season Tn ^01)/*:? T^'^^^ ^^^*?^ *^^4h^ iiave retraced his stens ih SL5- """f ^V^ura^e change, - Ws instructionrin oTd^rVspi"'"'" ^ **^' «^^«^d part of which might conduct ^ « ^ ^ ^P^°"^g *« the north ^ «ome meLrial of tt^easorrjr? l"-^ I^ this case west end of Melviiri«1»nT P^j^d V h,in ^t the south- retracing his steps wonlrinA.^^ ^'^ °^ ^« P«T>ose of and shoSd he sSeqSlv W^^^^^^ ^T ^'^^ ^^'* ^ ^^^^^ north, presenting TfSi ^°^*^ ^ ^P^^°& *<> the should circumstalees W^^tJT^^ i5' *^""^ «^««' have been left. -■: ^^J^^rmitted, would a memorial ormnlTalttjouthtT ^Tk.T'^' ^^^-^^able state did, and may ha^e be;ried' tt^^^!^^^^ ^^^^^ *^^^^e passage for his shLrin tht ^- T^-^ *° ^*i^°^P* *« ^^rce a or perhaps, in the fost in,w''J Hf of Behring's Strait, tion, namely, to S? & *^T*^' T*^ «^*«*dire^ gencies present t^m^elresi^f^'".'^ 'f? *^« ^^^^i^" navigation of 1847 hTmav i,„^ ' *5** '"^ *^^ «^*«on of thatin 184« he X Lve^l ' J??" 'T^^^^ P^«gre««. through to Behring's St tfn ' endeavour to push the continent, to J:t^t^tZl::^: I?^™ P-^ of ^-Bar= and the i-„„^.«;XT^eC .itf r'^-^^'Sr"- supply. I presmoe (for f am buCarSijr^SS f i i T ♦I "5 ,t' I: 202 PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERT. their inatructiOM), the most judicious means of affording rehef m this direction. There is, however, a second eon- tmg^ncy ; and it is the one which the impression left on my mmd by the nattre and general aspect of the ice in the twelve months which we ourselves passed at the ^outh- west end of MelviUe Island, compels me, in spite of my wishes, to regard as the more probable, viz.; that hii advance from Melville Island in the season of 1847 may have been limited to a distance of 50, or perhaps 100 miles at^farthest, and that in 1848 he may have endeavoured to retrace his steps, but only with partial success. It is I apprehend, q^uite a conceivable case, that under these cir- oumstances, incapable of extricating the ships from the ice, the crews may have been, at length, obliged to quit them, and attempt a retreat, not towards the continent, because too distant, but to Melville Island, where certainly food, and probably fuel (seals), might be obtained, anch where thev would naturally suppose that vessels despatched from England for their relief would, in the first instance, seek them. It is quite conceivable also, I apprehend, that the circumstances might be such that their retreat may have been made without their boats, and probably in the April or May of 1849. ^ " Where the Esquimaux have lived, there Enghshmen may live, and no valid argument against the attempt to relieve can, I thmk, be founded on the improbability of finding Englishmen alive in 1850, who may have madfe a retreat to Melville Island in the spring of 1849 ; nor would the view of the case be altered in any material degree, if ^Sa^^P^^ i^^V^ ^^f"*®** ^° ^a^® been made in 1848 or 1849 to Banks Land, which may afford facilities of food and fuel equal or superior to Melville Island, aAd a further retreat m the following year to the latter island as the point .7w.i.^^®^ Z^"^^^ ™°^® probably look out for succour. Without disparagement, therefore, to the attempts made m other dire.ttions, I retain my original opinion, which seems also to have been the opinion of the Board ol Admiralty, by which Boss's Instructions were drawn up, that the most promising direction for research would be taken,by a vessel which should follow them to the south- west point of Melville Island, bo prepared to winter there, and. It necessary, to send a party across the ice in April or May to examine Banks' land, a distance (there and in» Z. than recently acco mpj i gh^ by R^ ] „ hin Innd J oumey. . ^^ •• I learn from Boss's despatches, that almost immediately after he got out of Port Leopold (1849), he was entangled in 1^ ^& i^MfiH^^MM OPINIONS AND 8UOOESTIONS. X apparently interminable fields and floes of ice, with which, in the course of the summer, he was drifted down through Barrow Strait and BaffiiTs Bay nearly to Davis' Strait. It is reasonable to presume, therefore, that the localities from whence this ice drifted are likely to be Igss encum- bered than usual by accumulated ice in 185CK It is, of course, o# the highest importance to reach Barrow Strait at the earliest possible perio(J of the season ; and, connected with this point, I learnt from Captain Bird, whom I had the pleasure of seeing here a few days ago, a very remark- able fact, that the ice which prevented their crossing Baffin's Bay in 72° or 73° of latitude (as we did in 1819, arriving in Barrow Strait a month earlier than we had done the preceding year, when we went rouhd by Mel- ville Bay, and nearly a>^onth earlier than Eoss did last year) was young ice, which had formed in the remark- ably calm summer of last year, and which *the absence ot wind prevented their forcmg a passage through, on the one hand, whilst, on the other, the id* was not heavy enough for ice anchors. It was, he said, not more than two or two-and-a-half feet thick, and obviously of very recent formation. There must, therefore, have been an earlier period of the season when this part of the sea must have been free from ice; and this comes in confirmation of a circumstance of which I was informed by Mr. Petersen (a Danish gentleman sent to England some months ago by the Northern Society of Antiquaries of Copenhagen, to make extracts from books and manuscripts in the British Museum), that the Northmen, who had settlements some centuries ago on the west coast of Greenland, were in the habit of crossing Baffin's Bay injhe latitude of TJpernavic in the spring of the year,, for the purpose of fishing in Barrow Strait,' from wheilce they returned in August; and that in the early months they generally found the passage across free from ice. " In the preceding remarks, I have left one contingency tmconsiderea ; it is that which would have followed in pursuance of his instructions, if Franklin should have found the aspect of the ice too unfavourable to the west and south of Melville Island to attempt to force a passage through it, and should have r(*traced nid steps in hopes of finding a more open sea to the northward, either in Wel- lington Strait or elsewhere. It is quite conceivable that great distance, insuperable difficulties to their advance, and may have failed in accomplishing a return with their ships. In this case, the retreat of the crews, supposing it 204 PROGRESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVERY. to have been made across land or ice, would mof^tT^mh«^.}^ be directed to some partof the coast iTht ^uteWef ville Island, on which route thev would IrSl^^f^ ui" exnect that succour would be attempted!" '^*^'"* ^"''*^*' Mr.^bert A. Goodsir, a brother of Mr. H D Good«,V the assiatant-surffeon of Sir John T?,.o«L.r '• C^ , » inmetosavso bi,fT v,-!^ ■" may be presumptuous 80 long, and Xch mSst h«vA """^'"'^ "'^^'^ ^^' ^^^^^ TuJ^A i^ wnicn must have tried you so much " aS: S Wu'f^luia'v'^f • ''?. """"-""We flocks of dovelies Ac Th« ^z.if™'^ ' '""Y ^^^- *»""• coons, GrccnW w).«l«% f ^"" "'"""''' "ompri'e the great namh^f jr„J^ ''°''''™'' «?»«<•'"")■ the sea nnicoil, or iZnr'vTrrrr^'"^^^ *WOlbi. wejgni>Timnnal food ■?: d»™« hi. wi.,er"SrTMZ^rZdf Bou ABUNDANCE OP ANIMAL POOD MET WITH. 206 newly the same quantity from birds alone, when wintering at Port Leopold. Jn 1719, the crews of two Hudson's Bay vessels, the Albany and Discovery, a ship and sloop, under the com- ™and of Mr. Barlow and Mr. Knight, were cast on shore on Marble Island, and it was subsequently ascertained that sonie of the party supported life for nearly three years^ Mr. Heame learnt the particulars from some of the Esquimaux in 1729. The ship it appeared went on sjope m the fall of 1719 ; the party, being then in number about fiftv, began to build their houde for the winter. As soon as the ice permitted in the following summer the Es- quimaux paid them another visit, and found the number of sailors much reduced, and very unhealthy. Sickness and famine occasioned such havoc among them that by the setting in of the second winter, their number was reduced to twenty. Some of the Esquimaux took up their abode at this period on the opposite side of the harbour, and supplied them with what provisions they could spare in the shape of blubber, seal's flesh, and train oil. The Esquimaux left for their wanderings in the spring, and on revisiting the island in the summer of 1721, oxAj five of the crews were found alive, and these were so ravenous for food, that they devoured the blubber and seal's flesh raw as they purchased it of the natives, which proved so injurious m tkeir weak state that three of them died in a few days. The two survivors, though very weak, managed to bury their comrades, and protracted their existence for some days longer. "They frequently,'* in the words of the narrative, " went to the top of an adjacent rock, and earnestly looked to the south and east, as if in expectation of some vessels coming to their relief. After continuing there a considerable time and nothing appearing in sight, they sat down close together and wept bitterly. At length one of the two k ®r'if j^ the other's strength was so far exhausted, that ho fell down and died also in attempting to dig a grave for his companion. The skulls and other large bones of ihm two men are now lying above ground close to the hofwe." Sir John Eichardson, speaking of the amount of fi ' be obtained in the Polar region, says, " Doer migratVo^cr the ice in the spring from the main shore to Victoria and Wollaston Lands in large herds, and return in the autumn. ihese lands are a l so the breedinfr ^Uom cf vnaf fln»]f, pf^ snow geese ; so that with ordinary skill in hunting, a largo supply of food might bo procured on their shores, in the months of June, July, and August. Seals are also i^um©- i i ' ^ ^06 PROGRESS OF AKCTIC DISCOVERT. derlL'thtVS^^^^^ f oMl^eir curiosity ren- and by fishing, iheZll of nrnv' P*"^''' ^ ^^^^^JB Bepiilje Bay, with Wother fuel thL^?i?.7"^ 5^°'^ of • » herbaceous andromada aSd m^i • ^i^^^'ed tufts of party on the spoils ollt Sase X^"?** * numerous Such instances forbid na L Y ^i^^'^® ^^^ a whole year ■IranJdin'spr^Ui^^Some ^f^P?- Should Sir ffi ter's consumption, it isTt IJrpi; ,w**l^^^*« ^ » win- ionger by hi/ ships, but Tlh^ll f^^ ^^ ^«^d remain seTeral/the office\^ and c^ews wT.h K^".^^" ^^^' ^'^ Jo be light enough to dvJl7ev The i^^*" f ^^^^^ «« ^^^ for that purpose: would ^ll^yonrV^ ?"" ^^^^ expressly ward to Waster SounrorS w„ ^'?\^^^ ^^^^ ^^^ according to the longitude iTwh^Wi?' *?? ^aiihmd, rested. , . ^ ■ "^ ^^ich the ships Were ar- be^ro^^^d t'^J't^:,fJ^^ ^upnlies of food that can from the quantities that tv7K l\ ^}}^'i ^^^'^' the several expeditions that ha?«/2?^'^ ^^''^^'^ed on quenUy of the'^means of pLe^Wn?^''"^^^^ "^'^ ««^««- rfu T' abundance in the sbbf h! !a ^^^^' ^^eu of the hunting parties was nof St the address and energy they would ineWtab^\Twhenfet^ '''^^^ ^^^^' «^ depended solely on their pe^sonal'ff'l'^ of the crews their chief or only obiect in fh!^ ^f^"*^^' and formed where relief miOT S>kerfr'\^™*^ ^"'^^^ reference to the suDDosiHrm 4-? I * T^^ remark haa stock of provisioLZCsi^S/^u'i «^ the. failure of th^ parties under their officet^seete directions. ®®* ^^^ succour in several .coId^fgr^StSyTm^p^^^^^^^^^^ " clothing, the heat of^htbod^ ^nr^^^^^^^^^^ '^^^J ^^ wmter time, in high Sd J- ^'*''^'^- ^^^'^ " in oleaginous food/and for such ooll ""T'^^ ^«' ^^ or walrusaes, or bears fnL- ^^^casions the flesh-^f seals t^ Cook slys that rwairst a T*^ t ''. ^«*- " t article of fooJ. Whales Tnd «pJ! «weet and wholesome »nd fuel. The neoesTitt fo. • ' ^"""^^ '^"^^ f«™«h light weather, is not soZat ihen ^7^1^^^ ^ ^^'7 ^^d Mr. Gilpin, in hKlrative 1^ tt^-'^'f '^^'^' ' for March, 18^0, write. uTiu 1 ^''''^'*^ MagHnnw "r T ABUNDANCE OP ANIMAL FOOD MET WITH, 207 "About the 20th of June a small water bird, called- the doveky, had become bo numerous, and so many were daily shot by those who troubled themselves to go after them, that shooting parties from each ship, consisting of an officer and marine, were established at Whaler Point, where they remained the whole week, returning on board on Saturday night. In a week or so after this the coon, a much heavier bird, became more plentiful than the little doveky, and from this tifne to the middle of August, so successful and untiring were our sportsmen, that the crew received each a bird per man a day. ^ " The account kept on board the Investiaaior showed the number of birds killed to have amounted to about 4000, and yielding near 25001bs. of meat. But more than this was obtained, as many were shot by individual^ for amuse- ment, and not alway^ noted." Mr. Goodsir, surgeon, when in the Advice whaler, on her voyage up Lancaster Sound, in the summer of 1849, speaking of landing on one of the Wollaaton Islands, on the west side of Navy Board Inlet, s^ys he disturbed about half a dozen pairs of the eider duck (Somaieria moUissima). Their eggs he found to be within a few hours of maturity. There were besides numerous nests, the occupants of which had probably winged their way southwards. Two brent geese {Anser hemicla), and a single pair of arctic terns (Sterna arctica), were most vociferous ajid courageous in defence of their downy offspring wherever he approached.. These weye the only birds he saw, with the exception of a solitary raven {Corvv^ cortuc) not very high overhead, whose sharp and yet musically bell-like croak came startling upon the ear. Mr. Snow, in his account of the voyage of the Prince Albert, p. 162, says (speaking of Melville Bay, at the northern head of Baffin s Bay), " Innumerable quantities of birds, especially the little auk (Alca alle) and the doy ekj (Coli/mbvs'gri/lle), were now seen (August 6th) in every direction. T]it?y were to be observed in thousands, X)n the wing and 'in the water, and often on i)ieces of ice, where they were clustered together so thick that scores ttiight have been shot at a time by two or three fowling In passing up Lancaster Sound a fortnight later several ■hoals of eider ducks and large quantities of other hivda { »8 '«0OKE«, OP A«CX,0 B«c*r«Hr A BALL^ OF SIB JoHlr FSASKLW. TBe scud drive, on Ihs b~„ A BALLAD OF St8 JOHN PRAHKLOT. ^ wfT.r''* *^^"*' *'»« ^^"^r'" come, We sail not on yonder sea: Why sail we not. Sir John Franklin? -—A Silent man was he. The Winter goes, the Summer comet We cannot rule the year ; *f n. we cannot rule the ways, Sir John, wherein we'd steer. The oruel ice came floating on T,-,f fn^ "/Pff beneath the lee.' Tm the thickenings waters dashed no morcu Twas ice wound, behind, befow- ^ My GodI there is no sea I ^il^.P'' ^' *''« ''^•^ler now I . What of the Esquimaux ? A sled were better than a ship, io cruise through ice and snow. ^r* "'"•k the baleftil crimson sun', The northern-light came out. A 5 *r^ "P°° *^« Ice-fiound shipi. And shook its spears about. The snow came down, storm breeding Btorim And on the decks was Ijjidj * ^"^ Till the weary saUor, sick at heart. Sank down beside his spade. Sir John th«J night is black and long. -J'je '''Ming wind is bleak; • • 1 pYithee, captain, speak. The singing breeze is cold. ITie ice is not so strong as hope. ihe heart of man is bold 1 What hope can scale this icy waU. , High over the main flag-staff? Above thp ridges the wolf and bear ^ItT "^^^ * P»"««t' «et"ed Btvw,^ Look down on us and laugh. ^^ The Summer went, the Winter c»m»-^ ,y*_wuld not rule the year ; 100 >ik. 'f^ ■ — .,— ^u« rfuv me year; BBt rinmran a ¥ H1 arifr tfagtarmaKs Whereon omr ahipa shall itMr, - / SI9 paoowsss OF ABOMo nm&wmAt, 1 De Winter came aionnd • But the hard, green ice was strong as death. And the voice of hope sank to a tosatlT^ Yet caught at eveiy^und. ^^ ' Hark 1 heard you not tL sound of g«n»f And there, and the»^«gain? Tia some uneasy iceb^s roar. As he turns in the fh)zen main. Hurra I hurra! the Esquimaux Across the ice-fields steal • God give them gnue for tfaeir cbaijty l Ye pray for the silly seal. ^^'^' Sir John where are the English flold,. And where the English tLs; And where are the little English flowers. Thai; open in the breeze ? '*"*'"»' lou shall see the fields airain And smell the scent of the^ning floww* The grass, and the wavinTgrai?. ^^ ^M^i^! '''*". ^ ««« »y oipluui clUld ? My Mafy waits for me ; Oh J when shall I »ee my old mother And pray at her trembling knee? ' Be still, be still, my brave sailors I ihmk not such thoughts tundn 1 But a tear froze slowly on iZ cheeks He thought of Lady jane. Ah I bitter, bitter grows the cold. ine ice grows more and more : More settled stare the wolf and bear More patient than before. ^ win "'^ ^*"' ****^ ^ •'<*» FrankliiU We'll ever see the land ? ^^ ^.K™!' ^ "^"'^ us here to starve. Without a helping hand. "^ «™;'' Sir John, to send us he»^' >^ bo Ar from help or home ; "^ ^*^ 10 starve and freeze on this lonely SM , I ween, the Lords of the Admiral^ Had rather send than come. vr sail to our own country. We have done what man bjui never dM<^ \ ---*r — w.»~»M iMMHwi m me an We pa sw u u asm&nui^ i •I VOYAGES OP VABI0U8 VESSELS. 211 THE OOVEEKME^^ pBITATE SE^HCHIKa EXPEDITIONS ,. - 4|rEE SIB JOHN FEANKLIN. """^^^"^^^ . ■ fate of PraiSs Tesei Met.llTJ^ to ascerteiiT the as Was is eoz^irttiS^^^ Strait of CeHan^t f *^f They passed throug^tJie June tCo V ^ • . -tnterprtse left on the 30th of and vS d-'tr^^: r^^Jlr ^,'%' ^ Cape Lisbume withTti.^ «r^"%' ^'^'' "-oaohing pushed to seventy miles ei,fw«I5' «^ 2. • f^^fn^^rtse Anril* iS^ : °^ ^°°^' ^^t5li he again leftkt seen both by thra-SiJS S? "^T ^l"""'. wa. on the 5th iuSLt Tsm j '°°*' ''? *•»« '"t t>™e, f^lW J^*""^-^ lif^° .*^"^ ^'^^y "1 I860 were vifforouslv followed up m the spring of the same year ; severS vS started to renew the search by way of wLter SoS m the Asstsiance, attended by two screw steamerTS bv th^HnZn^-r^'^n' ®"'*^^^ ^^' volunteered, aided - TOitnTfti.Tr. tdTt. r" ^ " y^^f* *" "gperienced coffiT A^W^l^fi ''^'^« '^™f' "«"^«d orders from the Adminaty to equip two vessels, the Lady Franklin, ml 212 PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY. S^ar^p^JiLte^ And '^^^lohed:LadyFralllirlZsl^^^ left un jent a small schoonej.. Lp^nr. Iif^J P""'^^*^ "^^^na. Captain Porsvth UN L^ .^^*^'' "^ command of . . which the Sr yes^ls C n^ff^"'^ ^^^^«* ^^^t. for summer of jesanot less ?Lr?^S? 't,^'? *^**' ^^ t^e were assembled .within LancastAoS i?">>^ ' ^«««el« American schooners . the i^« t^^' ^^^^^^es the two - and the i?e.oe^Stlnanf GriZ' ^t^*^*^* ^^ ^aven? hberalitj of Mk GSl^of 5^ V'^t*'^ *5" muniiicen to this noble objectrCoi wldeW rH 5*^ contributed ^ ^ere thus empl^ed'in ?he Stt seai'""* ^"'^'"'^ ^''''^' i.>ttedTp^'^,lPt^ tidings of sofie*^ traces of FrS^ .*^ England, bringing been discov^ered S Point Pil^^'.r^'^P"^.*^'^^ ^^^f lington Channel- aiid «lf« o " "^' ^* *^® ^^oilth of Wel- Kofs's Ea^iSauTif/Ce't^r/'r^^ treacherous natives on c?rfti^ 1,^^^^''*'''^ ^ attack of places called OmmZ^ t^Z^^T v^\''''^ «^ ^^^ «any Has been giyen ^^' ^ ^^^^ ^^^le or no credence the southin extre^ty of W^mi/ton C^f'^ ^'^^*^' ^* the American ones -whioh rfi^^Ston Channel, excepting were drifting heTpi;^i; du^^^^/ .r^^J ^ *^« Pact icef ' carried a linear TstlnL 1?^^ *^^, ^^^^c wiW; and being libera?eTtite;elru7h'^^^ KX^Ses; S , ^ "1 Baffin's Bay, in th^ month n? f^^^Pfo^^^^g^a^ Austin's ships were locked^n fL° '^^^' ^^^^' Captain In the early sprint th^+^f n^ '"'^ ^"""^ ^^^^^^ a jeai-. began their oSn^ o^^ t^e^ ?^^^i^« ^om searched the shores nn^fi, ^ ^® ,^*'®' *^d thorouffhlv to the amount fn th« /'''^ '^'^^^ °^ ^^'ow's StW Captain Om^ey vfsite/ffie'^l ""^' ?^ ^i^'^ trending west, up to iw° 42' ^ ^^?'^' ^^ *^o>id vessel sixtjdays!^ DurW sLr^VTv T' ^T ^'^^^^ meter indrcateJ a temperatCof 7l^K ^"^^t^c thermo- Pornt Captain OmmamiTresJ/d.J^^^ *^? -^'^^^^^ vessels would be unable to^w ! decided opmion, that explored, from tLCeta^ee of f*!,^^^^^ ?" «««^ ^e from the southerly tSZ Df itf!i''\^^ ?^°^«' ^^ ■ posed to lie in a westerlv Hfr^i- ^^"i^ "^^^^^ ^^ ^as sup. travelled ^^onVtLrL^T.^^^^^^^ .f^other s ledge plrly lowest side bVCa pS o^^^^^ ^^.^** 1 ^ '^> explIrM I ' in the thermomete? S^Sd bv t?f J ' ^J^^' The mercury carriea by this party was frequently CAPTAIN AUSTIN'S EXPEDITION. 213 *^,., frozen .- and their chronometer was 'stopped from exces- Wf'!?^-.,^''i*^''*'^^^"^^« «*"« ^ere occasionally hoisted on the sledges, and arge kites were also attached. When the wind was high, these aids propelled the sledge very rapidly and the whole of the party then rode; but when the wind fell, the sledges, with their provisions and stores Jad to be dragged by main force over the ice by the men harnessed to them. ^ Another party examined Cornwallis Island, which lies on the western side of Wellington Channel, Bathurst Island, Byam Martm Island and Straits, and the coast north-west of Bathurst Island, to the 76° lat. inS^'SJ'®T*H'^'''*'iJf^f^^^ *^« «*°^« direction to" • ^/r , •„ ^^^^<^?ant M'Cf ntock visited Winter Harbour, ^n Z """^l^ Island and roi^dedCape Dundasinto Liddon trult as far as Bushnan Cove, returning across the island to Winter Harbour, bringing back as a trophy part of the broken cart-wheel left bv Sir E. Parry, in 1820 This extraordmary journey, which occupied eighty days, and myolved a distance of 760 mUes, gave no traces of the missing navigators, but produced unmistakable evidence ot the great abundance of animal life on the Parry Islands lor the traveUers fell in with a great number ol hares! deer, and musk oxen, bears ^d foxes, as well as birds in - great abundance. They traveUed when the cold was so intense that bottles of water, carried by the men in their breasts, froze after an hour or so; salt pork broke like suet, and rum thickened, i Other parties examined the islands lying east of Mel- ville Island, with the like ill success. Sledge parties from Captain Penny's vessels proceeded I?^!u^?**'''^^^'^?^®k ^ examine both its sides. On tHe dOth May, Captam^tewart, commanding one ol these parties, arrived at a northern dividing channel, which leads from Wellmgton into Queen Victoria's Channel. ^ Here, to his great astonishment, he found an open sea; but unfortunately, the want of a boat stopped his further progress. Ducks and sea-fowl, of various kinds, were swimming on the water, and snipe were flying about the beach. The entrance to Wellington Strwt was barred against the entrance of vessels by a firm and impassable barrier of ice, the evident accumulation of several seasons. Captain Penny 8 party disco vered and explored Q .i»PTi'ft Chai^Bl, whicii re, witliout douB, a prolongaHon of Wel- lingtbn Strait into the CTeat Polar Basin. In this new channel Penny met with wood and other foreign sub- stances adrift, and polar bears, deer, walruses, and whales 2U PBOORESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY. jn great numbers Tf ia w n ^aj induced to return home in fh. 1 ^^"^y* t*^e latte^ S'^J^te result of their ice-dr^^ ^*^' ^«^- The i^ to. With the exceptions of fW J ^"""l *^'««4y ^Juded Boas, there is no ^W like rl^l^'' Jack and 4 JaZt *Jn Sept. 13, 1861 ar^m^^u' r.^ ^^^ exposure • Sfobse?.edby4e2^at:^d^^^^^ attemjpted to return, buTw^Xln • *"'^'^' ^^«° they ton Ciannel. Then commencST^hl'" ^iP^^to WeJIing^ the vessels were carried to 7?° 30' f),"*''*^^"^ ^"ft, a#d ^mng the months of NovemW ^'v^"™' or drift , ii!ti'?«'""?>rt of such a hS^S •^°^°«''')-«'"l / '*5^™«fi'->edth.nde8oribeT' «*-l»Md, e,n be pressure of the .^^iu^^-Jj^^irwheB the f^rf^ oesorted, about Nove£h»5. k T7 '.'• ">« -Siww was ".o»eterbemg4(^^:Ci;S "" *^- *»- «"'ti^ ^^&o:^;,'Sir^l",*°-et ,„a cold hero in. " ^1.? fon». ti^ *, HKeX"""* ■" ™~ «"-•« « r.'-^°^"°»^^'rsrofX'o^iL.'S #■ THE AMERICAN EXPEDITION. 215 v»^ A small wound on the finger of Lieut, de Haven, made when a Bchool-boy, and many years ago healed and for- gotten, was reopened by the diseas*. In the sprinfT (May) the Rescue was recovered with the loss of bowsprit and cutwater. Both vessels liad with- stood the crushing of the ice wonderfully well. Their small size enabled them to rise when the crushing began, and their prodigious strength saved them from being de- stroyed by the pressure. On the 13th of January, 1851, they entered BafBn's ±Jay (the Rescue then invisible), and drifted out of sight of land, being about 90 miles off. June 10.— They emerged from the ice, after over nine months dnftmg m it, (about 300 days,) during all which tune they had been imprisoned, without the power to get out. During this time they calculated they had drifted full 1060 miles. Lieut, de Haven determined to proceed north after he had emerged from the ice, in June, as before stated; but m his effort to pass through ^he Melville Bay barrier he was, July 25, again beset withW, and frozen up. \ The icebergs were more numerous than ever %owb before at that time, and he became enveloped in fliem. He was m the midst of a grand, magnificent circus of ice- bergs, the amphitheatre of which was 200 feet high. From this imprisonment he escaped Auguat 19, when the north winds blew him out. Then, after refreshing at theGrewiland ports, he set sail for the United States/^ Mr. Kane, the surgeon to this expedition, and one of the most intelligent of the various recent Arctic explorers, was Very sanguine that Franklin might yet be found. — **Irfiould say (he observes, m a letter to Mr. Grinnell) that he is now to be sought for north and west of Com- wallis Island. As to the chance of the destruction of the pwi;y by the casualties of ice, the return of our ovm party, after something more than the usual share of them, is the only facft that I can add to what we knew when we set out.' The snow hut, the fire and hght from the moss lamp fed with blubber, the seal, the narwhal, the white whale, and occasionally abundant stores of migratory birds, would sustam vigorous life. The scurvy, t^ worst visitation of explorers, deprived of p^raanent ^uaoters, is more rare 'Pth e depths of a Polar winter than in the milder weather "oHie moist summer, and our twoTittle vessels^enooiS.^ tered both seasons without losing a man." During the months of June, July, August, aad Sep. tember, 1852, Dr. John Bae was engaged, under osdert ^ ''J ' t Wk- ,f«^B? '^f In October, 1862 4e P ?''^^^'^*««""^e7ed d«^ from a voylltofL^''' -^^^^^ ^^eS. «f a Aber- ' the I/ady -oy the accounti refi«,v«j r ^ *^^„!^JoriB^ ve88e?^.^of^X;°? ^°°»°»"^icaC with mmute eraminahnit J- "il V^^^eB from them aW meats on bo^d ^Sl**^ *^?°' lOOOJbs of th«' ^^^' * - '^M found Sx^^r^^' ««PPlied VL-r rJrr^"^".*^ ---«TiTT*pt-r ^ ■ ^fr"^K.^i,o /iT '^® *7fmity ot the common north eastern pSt^^anS al??h^A^^7 ^^"»« *^^ the continent of TWk ^' • *V *^® ^''ctic coasts of searched ^^ '^°'^"''*' ^»^« ^een thoroughly The Isabel screw schooner of 170 tona ^nA on i, ^ power, fitted and provisioned for ^ fil^ SO^orse Wing in June. 1/52! th^Sugh "tL^ faSurJT dl^r ' Beatson's intended expedition to Behrin^'afifL?^^'* thrown upon the hands ^f Xady Franf lin fw 1 T •offered the vessel to Commander Sfieki R N f^^ service, m anv rorftfl Iia *«;«k* -^ug^enew, it.JN., for Captaii IneleLTd Ipf? T^^ f */?°'?^f "'^^^ judicious, hei& of RiK Bav *^^^^ '" .'^'^7' ^ "Plope the ?tx«dts!and acclplJhS '*l/^«" «°^"^« *°d o^erj^ctic raWg^itt^^t: B;^tTo^a;^«^ believe. hik.Ai' M "" «">"n«nder of the iiafe/ eontinued heav^ mie. .h^^K^ "^■u-^^;"°K'» Strait by . TwMit y- flT P m ile s i n side t hii o i>flnV/r,n ikrU^' r T--«*rfi ' \?^"*'." ingiefleld entered Whala SmmH f!r;rl7tle m :' t 7„tr ^ W ■■■ *^^"" ''' i"Ll."do'jru'idrx"i>°"'" ■^'^ ■-•' ""K» «na Sledges. Ascending an eminence of \. %5« S^-s 'W ms PB0ORKS8 OF ABCTIO DlSGOVEfiy, W on the charts, were Jacoveledff ^'' f^ ^"'^^'^ ** stretcjimg away to tl^ northwird ^^ ^""^^'^^ ^*« Far as the eye could reach an ^bro^„^ if ""^^ eastward, gaze, and no siffa of ice or n»«.J!? x- ®? horizon met the or inland sea co?Id be dletet^'5?; ""'? *" •^P^'' «*^^t named after Sir Hodcrict M« i,- *"® *^° '^^lets were Beaufort. Taldn^-*i^^\"^le^?^l^^^^ '^"^ »'' Francis Captam. Inglefiell dXdToWIy^^^^^^^^^^ 1^ ^'J?^ ^''«- m the direction of Smith's 8om?7«, f J?*® northward, on the 26th. ^ " '^°'^^' ™»king Cape Alexande^ <^ened the SoLr'tSi'TT t^® «9?»m«nder, "fairfr most lead into Te'^ltJ Pol^^^^^^^^^^ -^^^^ed. t}Z the eye strained forward into thAi ^"""^« ' «nd as rently open water, which niwoccunipdT "^P*""" ^^ '^PP*" pomts of the compass due noXS ^''°°' '.^7^" to eight not but admit to my 0^/^^/,,°,^ Portion, I coSld beyond . J- "wn nund that a great sea was The natural snow-clad aaninf ^p *u J??' ?*^^^® »n^et>" (Wrround the head of The ^f- ^I ¥^*^ ^^i^* that presence of a more genialchm: T'^^i °^°§?'l ^y the ander itself being stSdtTA bn'.f,'?^' ^'^ ^P'^ ^«- moss and the neighbourLg hab%r*".F'"'^« '^'^^ black mstead of snow-capniL^^ J*"^ northward were mation. The diseoveriesKltl n"*^^.*"^ secondary foi^ pme m ma2r ofTew "ol^l^^^J ^lefield^oom- withm the arctic circle two mT^^iT 1' x , ^^° remained f *nt expedition unlVcapr^ l"±^^'tl'''" ^^Govern- Wing reached it three months iff ^ l^evtow year, pI»hed(independentTiaZa)li7/'','^^ ^«* «««^'»' bringing honTfl with him " Hiit-* J^^^®" «^^'«' «team. Sir Frands Beau W 1 l^i"^ ***" °^ ^•l- miralty. in his report /pl^ ^ the Ad- . performed says ^of ffl^Xld "^f Thr^''"' ^"T^" oaUed a valuable discorerv forTffin ^T ? """^ ^'^^ ^« JJ the coMt. .nd Boss ana Pi^ff^^id^^^^ * ^''^^ Jbe Wmg of the ^onnt^r^^t^'S^^^^f^^^^o^ geographical diiwre^^ oonnecu^d. wa. -pp^llI^feVlfiX w^^^^ w^-~ -qip" ■■)f'Ti*^«r-«'^ _/V--^w^»iV ■^j--- ^mf m DKDUCJnONS FBOM THIS VOTAOB. 219 Ailltia fmrn^^^'^^T *^ /'cf ^^» prevented C«pt«ii Austin from «itenng Jones' Sound, but which seemeTS tarn to be only a deep bay, now turns out to be another pS^lslands' " "*^^""'' *^^^^ *^^ great chS:?:? mlwirin^.''^ ^ interesting voyage have furnished mmj tacts possessmg an important bearing on the present «id future searching expeditions ; and confirm the foUow- f S^rS*?- **^^r ?,"* ^y ^'- Petermann. 1. lHat bir John Franklin has not been wreelcpd *n/i hifi; If -i i"" ^*'"'^ ?^ navigableness in the compaVatively Wd 2?^- ^.''u !°°!*' ^* ^ ^« ^« «! !! T'*^ '°?'^ .*""* •* the end of the summer season aLH^ '^5 beginning, before the great ice SwsesTe dislodged from the coast and drifted southward .kf* J f *^*^ wiimals, fit for food, are more or less abmidMit even m the highest latitudes. th^X^f «»« preceding points in mind, and kssuminff that Sur J./ranklm has gone up Wellington Channel and there found before him a sea of .JonsidSable eSent ^d ^mgabk hke th«^ to the north of Baffin's Bavaheiu^ tion arises how is rt po^ible that nine years have nol^ passed without Sir ^ST iVanklin'ThavbT Inir aZ to pa^ out of that sea into the sea St^ I. ♦», XrTss^^t^^^or '^^Jt:'^.j:-^^'^^ jecturmg that such a tract of knd may extend frSmX" Stmts, Mikr as the eastern coasts of Greenls^^Sk out a single opening. At all event, it «lmTte oTs^.' any doubt that the sea to the north of Mn^ B^"^ 1 serb^C?"'"'' "^ ^ ^^"^ ^^ ^ ^^^ 'igMea. aua yet the question is not set at rest. In ^ 220 PKOGRESS'OF ABCTIC DISCOVERT. 'f^' wi h their tenders. Pifneer \ndIn^^!TT A^tt ^f^**^' .. ^ator were so firmly blocked UDb^thi ^*^ S^ ^?^'^'^^- found impossible to "liberate ?hZ j i°*' *^* i* '^as ^ «eS^e.-<^y wereabSeaCs^^^^^^ ' OTders, and their officers ^d nZJ: ?^T^d ^IcEer'a been sent to their riliftf Durim, 1?'® l^P^' ^^^h had W sincere and profoSl^^^ United States Governmenf«K ^ '^''°'^<' cause by the late operations of theSd ioSadiS.'' IL^V^^'^'* ^ the of our hopes and expeSw arT^^/u*^**"*^ ^»"'°g shor? devoid o/great encOura^eS for Z^'f ^««^ificant nor m the first pkce. that thTr^l- the future. They prove catastrophes w4htWfainM'°«^ i^^P« escaped aUth' • f;r1^*??^*^^^i«^& despairin'^'h^'- safety at the first winte? qu^te^ JS*«^' '^^ '^''"^ed in . of tfiose men belonffinir tn t!.^!f- ' ^^^^^ ^^re the craves apparentl;^ with S^^l Ltr^^'^P"' *«d Ed the Wiips'^companies we?^ n^S ^f^^rum; attesting that - unmistakeable sig^ cSn^* '''^^ "^ ^^^^ but, as o£ jecurity. comfortf^r3^J^ey^nT/f/'r^°«°^«^ the future fiteld of 8eRr?.V k ^^*°^ ^ ^^ ^ ffour. A^iiin Ploration of%V^ AustM" °"'"^«^ ^^^ thf '^r on with a sp&fc'and plweye^fe'l'J.T' *^ ^"^^ «arri^ tba they are my couStrymeniit;^^^^^ could not have^pu„ue/rXfe.? '''^"'^"^^^'P^ discoveries of Captain Penny cSmlT^*^ *'''"?^ ' '^l^e tfie jnd spirit, in a north.wesTHl^?."*^^,'^*'^^^"*! energy doubt that the clear watrrJef1r®°*'°°' ^®*^« «o room to* opened by my husb Jd'e g^^^^^^ way towards iehring's StrTb^^*''!' tAey pursued th"r Thus our future efforts h-Ji ^'«*^ northern latitude Mie io« navigators are now #■ -•BLf!. 2S^^3^!^8Wm^" '* I.ADY franklin's ENDUIUNQ FAITH. 221. to be looked for witR every hope of success, in the space ■ . *y»°?,^«^«f.°^ 100° and 180° of west longitude and any parallel of latitude north of 75°. It would appear, the^efore^ that to secure the completeness of the search it should be commenced simultaneously at )>ot> ends, and that no sbgle tT^iT ^'""^ ""K Wellmgton Channel should be c?n! sidered to Tiave exhausted its work till it emerged, in i5ehrmg 8 Strait, or, in other w'ords, accomplished a north- ^f^^P^^f^gemormj expedition starting from Behring's Strait deem its object attamed tiU it comes out inWll- teH*?*'''''L°'^^®^'«^^y' or, in other words, per- tTf^^k''''''^^7^^i^^V; ^« d^'^^® infinite com- ,.- .w ^^^ P/^of«7ti°l^ the late expeditions have given nLi^^i ^fllT^}^ resources exist in those northern l^ TJ^i the Arctic regions which have now been ap- Jf^ 1 ' ^\^^^ ^^P.'''^ °^ ^""^"^ li^^' ^^ very. satisfX J?.7* ? n '^ *^^ additional experience gained in confirma- T^.^l *^1 former evidence, that the Arctic climate is in Jt^^'l/Zavo^ab e to health, and that the loss of Jifa^^ttend-" ing the expeditions is, m spite of the risks and Sdents incidental to them far less than the -average in any other quarter of the globe. With these facts befwe us, aid wiS no proof or even sign of an v sudden/calamity having over^ taken them and cut short their progress, it s^ems nSt pre- sumptuous but w;thm the bound? of a reasonable ^d modest calculation of pi;obabUiti6s, to conciude.the lost SrlS^ir ^1 .^"^^ ''^i ^""^ ^^'^""-^ ^^^^"^ A«y were already beyond the teach of Oip efforts wMch have been made to come upon then- track, limited as iTeir efforts have hitherto been to the duration, of a single season. The discovery ships were years ahead of all their pursuers. and. whQe thelatt* had advanced hardly beyond the starting post, they were struggling towards the goal." If mtsfortune ha& mdeed overwhelmed them.-knd how shall Idare refuse to belipve in such a possibility P— it has been In the strenuous ardfint pursm't of their duty, and not in the early aud timid abandonment of it. as they would seem to imply who gratuitously suppose that our brave countrymen turned back at the end of a single winter, and perished on their way home. It was the kSow^ detormi- Mtion oimy hUsbwid, and is recorded by him inlhis last letter from the borders of th^e ice. to renew his ittompts y ear after year, and if foiled in one direction J - ^ 4^ gi:^X-T^W "" y A/ f^ ? ^^ g^rectio u tote a n . 11 J 7^.*" teatoot but regard thd rescueVf mj Jiusband and his companions, and the accomplishment of the new passage, as nearly identical objects. Had the researches which have hitherto been made in vain been 7^ 222 \ PBOeBBSS OF AfiCtlC l>mOVERY. not perhaps Iwve liad to wT^ »gi|ced,we might / "Y" peraaps Have had to ommn. «iL "-^-W*^"* we nugbt «i wewes tlie original 2pSS «S!?^ ^''^ '*"»* «Mectg - same stead&st p^evij^^S? ^** P«"^g it witfi the mystCTy." - *~"*'^«*»c«» that we can hope to solve the rican ahoresin A^ iS^ ti?"?''^^' ^ft the Am^ Kkne, promoted Cz^LxS'^^*^'".^^ \"^«o«' M^ •A more judicious B^leS^dnT^^ "^ t^'^' ^^^ it- Though before serving ^W. J^'^f- ^'^ made^ he signaUy distinSedT-S.^'?*''*^?"*** «»?acity, espeoiaUy pre,eminent; that onaliZ^ ^*'^'' ^® «*«>d firrtily believed that sL-S«^!r . '''\.'^*«^«^>i- He that L could bel^ued fr^m hTXi nf^'^f ^^' «^^ human means, flig heart wi^f^ ^ u^ ^^ confinement by and hisae.1. it ^ Te^^'lf^TAV^ T'^'P'^'^^ vestige of i»ope Trained ^ ''*'* ^*^ *<> W «s a on the oastern'side of Cth5 8n.^/?u'°r ««fe harbour • h« -tip, and proceed S^l °"'!'^' •^^'^^ ^^ ^^^^d lei^ve or thirty men W,i ^^n^rt^iS;^, T* '^ ^/ *^«^*y gutta-percha boats TJhf« l^ rV^ • ^^^^ges, dogs, and north SBeechrisiandtL-T^i-^ "^ ?^^ ^^il^s to the Belcher, and Ive^'^L^^'^^^^^^^^ ^ seen or recorded in wSinf+n^Pu ^"^ *,^® ^*™o»<^ limits orthe St. John's Sd^eTf^i^L'^T^^^ >* ^ "meeting year, after the reSof » nn^T?5^^'^*^"»«of tU flag. Dr. Kane tZ^^^^Mn^S^^ - hop^ and sentimenta in^SSird t tL Vl^' ""^^^^^ ^^ - jo^g j^bsent broth J^l^i?;3|fS:--h^^^ -^ellliira^/^^^^^^^ present of Its success are based as thlTrk T ^^l""^ ^^^^ ^^opes misapprehensions S too widely be desirable to remove '^"I upon this subject To S 1 "^ ?e»»o«lly pre- obtained and whose Ti'^^i; r^-^ ^^°*® knowle^e is this may inLll^^^elrtrhTl wiW ™Sl 1?^ fi'^^i^^" i;*' fas^wps"" ™<»A«™1B OF KAMUS'S SAM^TY. 335 friends, and^^the worid ^ ^ ***"^ ^'^^''' ^^^ human life is everywhere li^l? ?L W «f ""^stances. Aat Sir John and hJiShW^ ' ij^ « almost certain powd to d3erwS.^l *''*'' "^'^^ "^'t ^«^e been ex- t^regiontolwSl^b^eXcedl^^^^^ "^l^'^^ ^ ' nor yet are there seas Srp S 1 1 *" .*^'°«^^ unknown, theif iires wotiW brimperiflS "^j;*^*^ ««°««..]>y which eoidd befal them wonld^bT f^J.T?'^ ''aI ^?^^''^ ^^ the ice. cliaracteriTed by theTe^^i? '? -^^^ ''^?TS in of from that there are alm/^t ll t!^- ''^P^g' *>«* even escape; and. coreqZ^ based on.reliabIed2S;;^CS and expenencediheB mnh i.. fi.« td T . • , *™<^ng scientific Commander pfffof vo„r fl^^'!^"'''' Mur(^8on. and the^r will yet Knd '^ f«thfully persevered in, that duSeT-afc^^^^ -ej^etieally con- spectrnff the missiC £^i^J^ 1*°''^ °^ knowledge re- in a w?0Dg chinnef ^ ^'^^"^"L^"^/* ™ ^'^<^^ Franklin procS dn The^rfn ? n^^i^'i''*^ '^i^ J«^ northward up Wellin^nnrrS^U:^^ westward, or pressly enioiLd tn^J^t^ ex- search by means of slpdaAB I^^uTj- "*• ^ extensive the north shore, afforded po indLatfon f h*f -^ 20' along course actually pursued Tf ^- !l • ^ ^^^^ '^^s the generally by tJe^Xe^* of Ll?A T'!;^^""*^^*"^^^^ expeditiLr that slrToh^ pt^« tut!f hfl^ !°^ ^T^'T open sea north-west of thTwplKl ^is course bv the nels, and was rftXup'in the afeA^"^!^''*^^^^ wato i, iue. and Jii ad tLt extn fe ^ "^^^f. ^ " ^ "fiion of nel and the hiffh »nT-w • ^'f ^f en Victoria Chan- ^ r »'Tmfif*t^.-j4^'^ 224 ' \ PROGRESS OF ABCTIC DISCO VEBT. I' • < temperatare tEh.f ^f??^'. P? " '"»'° ?'* « higher That gaC7Sator ^tSZV^^'^'^^ SocS" about !20mile?ft^tr,^JrC'*Akhtt°' ^'r ^• before reached. He pa>8ed aivw, . 1 * i **"" «"«'■ five milM in wi,lth .„?S^!t^ ?'' * "hannel some thirtv- forward by a treien^L^ePJSt ]iM?»£'°"**^« «•« of co^omunioatioa b^et^rKL^cVd Se'S„S iB nowise 'Xred He S if """^ *^- ^^'^^ '^^^ ^ esting anecdote^f W8'ff;Sef Ca'^^^^^^^ and inter- lose him for the coriunandTtL STfJ. ^"^""^^ '^^^ real regard— I mav^v «ffLf *^P^<*1* on, for I have a this is felt by all ofr^'l^'vi . ''^ ^^' ^^ »>«lieve yet, but whit I wrseen iZTl T? S^'? ^/ C'<^^i«r ^ade for a second rs7r JoLt^Fr^'^^'l^ ^„! " we are all verv hanmr . «r« i ■^'^anjain. in our mess men, and I Zd ^^7 noT ' """' '«!'"""<' "«' <>' you were with n|, .. °«8™' "<> <=hange, except that I wish , He ia fSi of^if7iSiiu:j^:ir'z''r '5™ ^■°'«i- capital memorv.-one aft^iZ^r ?^° Judgment and a tioo i, delight^,. Z moatL^lfedSlir^T Js the most fitted fnt- ♦k- """""^'^J^, ana ot all men he The foUowing «tr,ct of . letter from Lieutenant Fai, -^ - - •^'^. ^'\ I 4 SIR JOHN franklin's BXPEDITION. 225 W fff 1 e ^^' -^ *^ «^®' ^on noeonly the resnect »anne »? t^Ca^h shin f J'^'^^' '^^'^^ jas to the same effect as^ir rSin'^^^u^^^^^^^^tion expectrng to be absent fou^. or five or n ?'^ 'P^^^- o^' These officers also said thai f>.« oi^' ^ P^f^aps six years, thev could find a convenient olaetf T^''^^ ^^"*«^ ^^ere as far as- possible, and so on vear ^r?^ '"^ 'P'^^ P^^h on' to the declarant, verbX^to^J-^ invitation was brought ^md shifted, ^ndZe IntXrZ'hl''^ ^^ '^^^°' b»*?ie ice about a mile and a"^atfTC !i V"^ ''"^ *^^o«ffii the declmetheinvitation S^•h*^:,t^t/^^^ ^''^^^^dto for two days longer; thefwere Jilli ^'''*^* ^^ ^^<"- and the Enterprise wa?mo^!f^ still lymg at an iceberff That sonmneXs wer^tTebid^s^!^^ ^7^ *^« ^o^ntrf' able was tie weather for shS?^?^'"'''^?' ^^^ sofavouK number must havp VfJ ^^^^tmg them, that a very Iet^^ declarant was i^Tght^^tET^ t^^^ *^« t^^e tS state of the wind af d weathp. ^ '^'P'' ^^* ^om the during part of which decWfJ^^ a period of ten days! sinps, t£e best opportun tT wL i^''5^"'/^^<= «^the two b»'ds. That the birrdSr^h?^ °'^^^ ^^^ «^^"«ng the all places on the fishb/^oS ''•' ''?* *° ^^ ^«^d a? but are met with ^Talt^nml "^^ *^^ ^^ahng season feeding banks and pCs C w7''^ ''T"" ^^ «^rtS dered at the time hythedZul^'^^' *"^ i* ^^ const cumstance that tL ^*X^'^5^^^*« ^o«t fortunato ?S- 80 many birds, andth^ThrslaS^';!,^*^ ^"^^ ^^ ^ith favourable for securing W *!^[ *^^ n:«*ther was so 4^fer^i^«?^>VaTppn&,l^^ armg three mouths. :^^ii'j' trj\':iFT^t' :^7vr'^i^**'"^j'*» ^'" THE LATEST AdcOimTS. 227 of SeS" ®*''^*'' "^^ *^« ^* ™« a« good as the first In a letter also published in the Times newsuanpr from. Mr Sutherland, surgeon of the Z^r^the tender to the Zady Franklin, Captain Penny; he states "had Sir John FrankHn any wish to increase^hi7stock of proTjsions . by the use of the birds caUed ' roches ' he could obtain them in thousands where the JEn^^Hse of Peterhead parted with him ; and as to stpw^^e.Z daily allowance of 138 men would soon make ro^ for aS^ tw'^f/'^,'^-!?^?^^- .Moreover, he woZ dso lelrn fW« w""^ '''S. ^^^P ^^ *^« ^ctic regions during the three short months of summer, if they bf exposed t? the cold and a free current of air. And there i?Vo doubf M^^ii^ mgenmty would suggest to him what tS EsqWu^We'^ mL'^i/Zn'^r'f! "^ y^n-^^ wiHreser^l S!!!», J- ^?*^. «i^!*ances, such as whale's flesh bv means of ice, dunng the summer months, when it mav be easily obtained, for their use during winte^" ^ thJwSr^ '^°''^ ^^''^''; *° ^« apprehended from the well-known energy and zeal of tfie explorers than from any other cause. Franklin left our shor^feeW that the eyes ofthe civilized worid were on him ^d that ^ was hoped and expected he would accomplish vJhat o^ most learned hydrographeri regard as feasible althon^ failure has characterized so^many attempts to pass S the Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean, roun/ the north olZ of America. Fr^kHn was well aware that if he succeeded his fame would be heralded abroad; and h7wS not abandon his enterprise a^ long as strength remaTed ••Fame is the spur that the clear spirit dotli raise To scorn delights and live laborioud days." SfnwS":? *'-^'''® "? *^^ fltruggle with mighty iceberes and^ thick-nbbed ice as long as the smallest chln^ of obSr the much-desirediprize remained. It is recorded that Xf attempts were n^ade to dissuade Sir Martin FrobTsW from engaging in the discovery of a north-west passage he answered, -it i^ the only thing in the wm- dTat^S l^Sr ^aS^t/^^ i^notable^ind might^l^^^^i^ vations which my be applie d wi j ^ e g u Bl & n^l^ sHglrtatteFsidnrfom 5wi case — "His task," he observes, "is doubUess an arduous one, \ ^fv'-'- ^ 228 PnOOMW OP AB0I.0 DMCOVERV. ^«, «faifHl(im«te]yenjc„;riiI »,. ^ perhaps tfil'pnVT *"'*''"'»al know- find m the spring of the vear W .u*'^ ^""^^^ ie wiJI the ice can pWt him toSih^'^ *^^ ^'^'^^ff «P of flockinfir in abundance to^Tparts^? S J^'' ^'^« ^^ ^eer be procured without difficuftv . - i*"® "'^^^^^ '"^^ch mav season, additions to his stocl^^f*^^ '^r^"" ^^^' in the tamed on many d^s nf *»? ^^ Provisions may be nh give him leisSlS'^endVut'w-' '^'"^^ circttce; traw] or seine-nets X> ?i i""**""^ P^^'es. With tho abundance of fish ev^n 'i^!, "^^^ »^«»«8t every where !«? lender these circumsCce^*'^ ""'^''^^S hL^Zisf ruiis any hazard of wS\rn^^'^«<= conceive ^thf^Te be prolonged even b^o^§ ^"hP ?Tv'^^'^^ ^ voyage which 18 calculated upon DWft ^**5* P^"'^*^ of tiife ., at many places in coS'rabi; "^^^^ ^^J be ^a^ierel ^ir prospect of hiropenW ! ^"^''^'^^^^ ' ^^^d tWfs a Esquimaux, who come^dZ^ to .1?°'''^**^°^ ^^^^ the the spring, previous to th^iV. i?^ ?.*"*= to tiU seals in marob ' ^^ '^<^'-^^^i-^o::m^^^ ?^^ from may obtain provision, and ixnSh^^^f,^ good-wiU, he fn June, 1851, Mr John ^it -"^ assistance." published in the m«f?.*^^''^ »^ interesting lettr^f desirability of tivinfTv.^*^"^ Gr«arrf,a«, 8Uff!rS tf ' NovaZemLaVaLTtLtlS^^ munication :- ^ lollowmg are extracts from his com with me m stating that theT.o/?^S#^8 ^^ a^ree certaining the fat/of our miTs W "''^fc^t^ ^of as! ships proceeding north «^i ? ^^"^^^ifrf i» for the JfovaiembKaSdSf'J^ ^^*=''^''» ^Wisen ^ do^ ^^wards'tCSCdtr PT^*^;,«^^^^ flendmg out boats daily I^tanTi ^"l^^o^t^ong- 130° w! theu. egress bj LancasL g Ind r^^^ ^k^ ^^^^g appears, m my opinion fnV.^ ^ •"^"'"^jg^s Straits I? entertain of tL Kh Polar ^ef k" • '^'^ ^^«* ^« P«bho barrier of ice. Perhaps tWnH -^'"^^ *" i°»Penetrable Bist in removing muKr^Ltl^'^i*^. statement may ij! gbihty of a iNTorth Pola^r X^^^^ of the J^i. folar passaffe.to iht^V'^^^Tr^^' -^be i^eii of aNorfh ^^.wm^^:zs,x^ nstol. xlf ''^ 6EAKCHIXG BY SPITZBKROEN BECOMMENDED. 329 trho, in a letter addressed to Dr. Lev states • « n ; Selat' ?d».^rt vetlS."'* "7 desire, ve^^ thereisii«T.*^laS.. ^t „'".*}'« wntraiy, fint that Stents/ '^H "'}^r«?vi'pS;i^^'^ t^^re^%^:SUf irSe* ^A.^r attiinea the lit m° w w ^•."^'Jl Captain M'CuIlam ahdS weathir iS CaoSn wnr"* ■"'.."P'" '"? of June advanced Vu^ ^'^'^^t'^- ^tZ°ft^ found the sea clear of ice as far as he eouW sT At fL ' same tune Captain Guy. after four ^ysTlZ^^t^t^" NSpolein 1S?7 /''Z'Ji^ ^'^ ^**^°^P* *« 'each the x^ortn i-oje in 1827, found the ice more broken im fn tl,I northward than to the southward, and #Wch caused h^ ISSorth^^ it'i^^Vw^ '^^ well rememb^^tS ueing x> ortn 01 S3 , and at that time there was no ice in aik»l,f IL 230 ■^ PROGRESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVERT. Klt^ by a Greenland ship, getting away, and bemir fcwervr "'^ %,^««*^.^t oTAme^ica^itra WreenJander 8 harpoon mljer. Sir John Franklin dunW hie overland route from the Coppermine Eiver iowS the eastwai-d. and wheii in lat. gFn. and lonTlS^W saw great -quantities of driftwood • and ih^^U f u not only proves the raistshce of a North Vol^iLSl'' Jo«„gtho North Polar sea to be a^1S^„'e?™KS hlTeobt„te "^"^^ ,"■«.«* «" whale^borementS state., the drift of the ioe to be abouttte wte of W ™X r.'4fy.Ld"1ftV""'"'^""V'^"S"'«-^"'""'<>''*^ deDiefthS tk! w"-/?? 'f '"*" """"deration, it cwnot be .W„^l,„ f* North Polar route offers the most favimr- able plan for asoertaminff the fate of onr nTiforf,;^*. oonntryaen; and from iS^rsonal obs^vaSons iSe ^ ^i,}T>^"^A 'il"'' " "»™ Straits, we fonndTs iS to the northward than we met towards the souliwliSr r.i? ^^^^\ 1852. M-r Augustus Petermann. an eS^ -nent g>«grapher. publisted in the Atk^m hi^Z' ibifdanrth*\''T ^"^'Jr*' -^^-^^^^o^e.Z aoje data on the abundance of animal Iffe in «,« a«„1- ' re^,ons. he has #ncc published inTs^'^Ve^i^^L • In this pamphlet he states, that a lino draVn from^'^l^iilA . Island to the Merald And Plover Islandrrmnrf h n?^ i, - ' 8tr.^t) and tnother from MeTviuT I'S^K g^Tg^ iwaiidfl on the Asiatic side, include the inarft in Z^u Mfeiklin must have been ai^-ested. a spw^^ fe^fid « ' tent when It is considered that tho wHo of^t /^o^s" Jl^erto explored by the various expeditions sent inseS (S$ •»< of • <»d thus husband their^ii^*'''-'°™!*.'md-Tird., .. '^V'-«E«Iuin.auxl"^oSrffl»±'r'- f r°»' "»" /• 2nd. As to the want nffn.) ■? '^ ?"'' '^'o- ■ f th««kip.w.s„rt^i»J^'^«i''^"«°*l>^«crifieeofon; chance supply of drift-wo^^^d of uffi" .t"^' '^5' the of the Esquimaux. """" "'"''''er, the usual fuel bera of moose, and rein d^ ««/f *^® Mackenzie, num- ffulJs. dotterel geese cmiTs ^.^^''^' ' -'^^^^'^ ki«d« of around ita shores^ ^^'' ""^ swans; were flocking ^-^hVatty^:l^^^^^^ from the experience of - ' ^n abundanc?^)f'd.°ft trX/on^l^^^ ^^''' ^« ««eh _^oa8t that a sufficient sipSTvoffSlfr* 'l''^ ^"*^ ^^ ^^^ — 1>e coIJcctoJ." And heS^ '« iouL^^^^ «^^P ^^^8*^* easily . ?^e^ introduce a steam Wei t^fh^^ '°^'^. ^^ ^^^^^ ««portant to kfiow that/rcoaTtL Z T'' ^'"^y ^« Cape Bathurst and the MackeSzt ?5^* ■'^<^!. between 1819-20, thefwS mn.f ^"^ ^^'•^' ^t MelvSe^rd in M'ClintockTnrhTs ?L^"Ct7e"a^' ^^ *^« ^«itSeu? mu.k7xen%IX/63 &fo^";™^^^^^ ptarmigan, many gulls and oth^? i^T ^^ ^"°^«' 1*4 , weight to nearly Mm lU of tZ ^'""^ amounting in month to each man^One of^i! *' «^^bout3i Ibs^er w^ed 700 lbs. Sev^^ f^^ ^f^^J^^ migan. stiU abound on MelviS'e L^U^^'' ii'"'"'' "^^ P^^'' four oxen out of about fXlfl"''*' ^.'« ^^^J ^^iUed thirtv-fo nr onpT, tTTo LtigT ^^ 1 /"; y° rem-d fler o u t of "fJ^ty or ninety seen ThcTwTI^ ^7®^ ^"*®*' ^«t of tamo as any one most^ anidL t^^i^'J^'*"^^''' ^^^'^ •• ""■ 10 procure game could imk. 5 *-1 »,jPly',tt '^■?f ANIMALS IN THE ARCTIC R'EGIONS. 235 Tw-erity ptarmigan were shot. Had it been his object, he refharks, he could easily have shot two-thirds of all the pxen he saw. The hares were often met with in flocks of twenty or thirty. Qlie deer approached them within 100 yards, with more of curiosity than ;^Ar,— and even after one was shot, the herd trotted round the party twd , or three times, before they finally deserted their fallen ^ compfanion. * 2,S All the other islands about this quarter are equally well suppKed. In perusing, as I have- done most carefully, the several Arctic Blue Books, just published by Parlia- ment, giving detailed accounts of the various exploring ' sledge parties, I have been particularlv strutk with the quantity of game which was fallen ii^ with in all directions. . Austin Island, and the shores southward and westward of Cape Walker, have" also numerous animals.and are fre- quented by birds. So are Beaufort, Bathurst, and Corn- wdHs Lands. In' Wellington gjid Victoria Channels animal life is eVen more abundant, and there is little doubt Sir John FrankUn took every opportunity of repleaiahing his stock while wintering at the entrance in 1845-46. Captain Penny .and his officers found bears, seals, rein- deer, walruses, and hares, plentiful on these shores. Thou- sands of ducks and sea-fowl of all sorts were seep. They killed, during their short journey— three ptarmigan^ four hears out. of thirty-five seen, three seals, a walrus, and. fourteen Hares, and: one reindeer ; a herd of twenty or thirty deer was seen. -rmr a The following is a list of the animals killed oy H.M.S. 4'ssi8tance, and her tender, the Intrepid, between the date of their arrival at Whalefish Islands, June 15, 1850, and tiie time »f leaving Baffin's Bay, on their return home, in August, 1851, or a little more thim a ^m. AnimaJs— thirteen bears, which were seen . in grc«P|^mber8 in all ^directions ;^iir«Bty-t^o foxes, mostlv'takS!Pin traps about the winter quarters of th« ships, They were both nume- rous and well fed;^nd seen by all the travelling parties about the Parry gttmn. Nin^ hares— these were in ^od condition, weighing^^ards of ten pounds. They were found at Comwailis Land.Griffith'a W^^^ at Cane Walkc" * the shores of Wellington tJhannSirttnd^ W«astenho| Sound, in Bi^n'ja Hay. Four musk oxen, and one d< on Meltille Island. Three' lemmings, a seal, and two narwhals, or sea^ufiicoras. . „ O^ birds, the number waa rery great— being, m nil, 3174 birds. ,. ^ • , . Now, if we average these birda at one pound weight H m I 2*6 >0RES3 OP ABCTIC DISOOYERY. ' «4f '.^. ^^'iC-^-rv t„\"™t^r">'' '» ^-'-J another the shores MJll'.y^rfs'?!?'?™' ^'«''« l«««H»m.«i „^ 'the wing at aXr»„/Pf '■'«*''• wheIP3iSP>i« "ni • fallen afalina? 'l??^ w^^'"^ <»Eether, Wi centuries, tho whole of^^.'*'^' '^ *^« ^^^^^ ^imost always Jcapll i,^'?^'' P^^ «f , the whaled; of be,V cist „„ tC v"^'" ''""■"l AoaS by -earched, wonld ha^ beer™./"* '}tT' "^'^ ha™ f eeJ four year, absent .^ „„Wd „ri„^1f ' 7" »<>" thaa tad they suff^rerf «« ® ordinary ^ontiniro^ Wy of men |^2,"t u1i^,?'.^^r y^^ »^ Would "tof life Jd we ^ut. whilst unheard oi , 51^ pro- h? If a lan foui CI 13 iicu ut'UlilV netted at a draught. At all points of the inlet which >*.«^ "^'i-'*"'J-n£ elix„ an^ Yietoria^-JIarbaurs^ Batty — " jgy-JO. ^ike^ «»4t Garry Bays, Finny Tomt, Cascade Beach, &c., animals wer^ equally plentiful. ^ . When the JSnterprise and Investigatop wiiOtored at Port •r 'B '^1 ^^^%» '"T ''* » """'^mmmmm f" 238 PBOGBESS OP AnCTIC I>ISCOVE«y. '^'-.'t-fl storehouse aff«.ii" ^^^' *^ere were rfn^' ^^"^'^^^^ ^^ , Sir JoJiri FranJdin ; i • attracted tie shores of Se^P^kr 9' ""'"P"^* ^^ ii« first ionm. . alon^'tienortW ? -^^^ ^ompany'sTp,^?/ • ® "^^t was %)phed[ Wifch c»in each >Ientiful record birds 7 were More again, :s. True- d lost =er, in ntli of )f the ^cited . rious , i 1b UNDANCB OF ANIMAL LIFE, 239 In the barren grounds between Fort Enterprise and Uie mouth of the Coppermine, more than two hundred deer were shot in a very short time, and large flocks of waveys (^wflw Kyperlorea) were met with, many of which fell to their guns. 4^heir fishery at Fort Enterprise yielded 1200 white fish, weighmg from two to three pounds each. Geese and ducks they also found abundant— indeed, too plentiful— for it is made a subject of complaint that the hunters were apt to waste upon them their ammunition given for killing About two ^ozen musk oxen were slain at various times, and a bear or two. The hunters could cyften even beat doM^n voung geese with their sticks; forty excellent salmon ^'d white fish were taken at a draught near the Bloody They learnt from the Esquimaux, as well as from their own experience, that reindeer frequent the coast during summer, that fish are plentiful at the mouths of the rivers, aad seals abundant, whilst drift-wood was found all along the shores. . In Bathurst Inlet, and Austin and Melville Sounds, they shot many deer ; and bears and seals were plentiful, if they had required to take them. The shallows were covered with shoals of capelin; and their nets prodjipd, . from time to time, a great variety of fish, particir^ly salmon-trout, round fish, herrings, and so forth. They als killed several swans, cranes, and gray geese.* , Sir John Eichardson, speaking of the amount of food to be obtained in these regions; says : — " Deer migrate over the ice in the spring, from tiie main shore to Victoria and Wollaston lands, in large herds, and return in the autumn. These lands are also the breeding-places of vast flocks of snow geese ; so that, with ordinary skill in hunting, a large supply of food might be procured on their shores, in the months of June, July, and August. Seals are also numerous in tho8«^ and art easily shot, their curiosity rendering them:,: prey to a boat party." 10C1 '^ ■^' ^^ searchijiff Wollaston Land, in -May, 1851, fou.ud abundance of drift wood about the shores. Many partridges were seen, but, as they were s^y, only eleven were shot by himself and his two men ; these birds ^^^^ !««■&*?. and fin« <»^tiBg. Beer werr very u iim^ —'-"^nd several hares were seen ; but as they had- abuii- „,. of provisions with them, no attempt was made to toach them t % 4^: ■i:-:i. PBOGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY. tW^^^^^^^^ lodges, whom abundance of seal'sXsh aTd ^f 'i^*"^ "" ^^'y ^'»*. having were carefully depSd ?^^\i?X^T^'^-« ^ ^ii^teL^ seai-skm bags under the froni tk^BBHB^^.t''*^^^® Admiralty, on his return '-^^ ipPEvtrrachii'''^ wat^piia be found TWliW^^^^^^ comparative open of tI#Se 8tate«. tha ^^^hIn v£^^ ^pnse, lat. 76°. 2', loZ 950 kS^^^ /^^^^"i^^' »* Point im of May, full a mon^^JLl tLn'^^^''?^' ^^ *te tude, while the sea wagm^lSSbI^l^''^J'^ ^^^^^ ^ati""' ,^4he water washed th^T^Tw ^1^^ *°^ i«^' t^a* , Pomt. The quantify of drift wood' t^"^ ''^"^ ^^ ^^^^^ wg&rge, and among this was fo^ n^ ^ • ^^^ comparatively SWalruses and sfa^ w^alTi* P''°! of English eln? penny's p^rty. ^"^^ ^^'"^ '^^^ ^^ t^Hed by Capt. capt£dth^minhiSr^^^ .balers have (^^^. to thisLa) depo^^^eg-^ jj-^ve. W'l'i^are?;?: *^^^^^^^^ we. ^ accurate judgment p2n«f ^^ materials for formimr an under thii head ?n thf^ *ll ''^**f ^^ "ot'c^s occiX of St. PetSsbu^^lra^^l^? T't?* ^'^^««««r w! ^ sufficient infcrSn ^S ^^^^ ^"* ^^c^l sourees warrant us KS^S^rk^^^^^^S ^ gathered to to those ofWcmJl?.^^*^^.^^""^eifatallinferiS This much*.rie;st ^^^^^^^^^ ^'^t of, Amen"" forth parties « AnT^rS^,^o?k ^ 'S^T' ''''^' tammg themsefvtts— ns ^i^ ^^ *^^ Siberia, main- of working. t£e n<^^^!^^J^ the l^o^. abundance in th^ neiffh Aji^Vif 1 i^^-^,' /**'*^<=^ »n ■aoh — described as one v^tl JK 1 '^t"^^' ^M<^^ ^ave been mo^. ^ ^ °^P^ f the remains of the mam, f ~3jSSB~ % -n •% "^41 DISCOVERT OP THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. Captain M'CIure, in the search for Franklin, has^ been fortimate enough to achieve the discovery of the lone- sought "North-west pa^sap ;" indeed, heiiiscovered two passages, one between MelviUe Island and Banks' Land and the other by the Priace of Wales' Strait which com^ municates with that of Barrow, at the eastern extreme of the last named land. This was effected on the 26th of Oct 1850, by a travellmg party over the ice, the tessel beinij Wn in the pack, where she wintered, about seventy miles to the southward Taking up the proceedings of the ;^t;^*Wor from the date of the last mformation, i^iven at page 211 (Aug. 5, 1850), I may state that, coasting along the edge of the ice, ^y found, on the 6th, an openinl eastward 6f WamwriSfs Inlet, and pushing through^ succeeded m roundmg Point Barrow at midnilht. ^ Un the 6th Sep. they discovered this first land, which hM smce been ascertained to be on island, whose north M'C^S'o.t7 A^f' another discoveiy, which Captain fL^l'i^ called Albert s Land; it is continuous with Wol- aston^d Victoria Land, and appears indeed to form one W island. On the 14th Julv,; 1851, the ice broS up! PrlS^rw i^'^'^Qi^l^ '^^P ^M l^elplessly about, £ Prince of Fales* Strait. On the 14th Auff thev wero witibn twenty-five miles of Barrow Strait. anS anticipated Mm - ?f tV*'7.^^'\''' "^ probability they would have «■& m with Captam Austm's ships, and so got to Eng- laM that year. A strong north-easter, however, set suSi quantities of ice upon themv and drove the ship so rapidly t^ the southward, that on the 16th Captain M'CluA determined to retrace his course down the S endeavour to worm his way through the polar ' west of Baring Island, so as to come down i between Melville Island and Banks" Land ffl ''"iced, from the report of a travelling party he patched to the westward in the spring, that a would be found in that direction. m the 24th Sep., while running in a snow-storm, the Jnvt^ttgalorgTonnded. on a reef, an d was thus fr ozpn mJSt. ^ ncudxc hoi-buur, named^y the commander the Bay of Mercy lat 74° 6' N, long. 117° 16' W. where she^re- niamed at the last accounts, on the 15th of April 1853 It 18 strange to reflect how near Parry, in his first vovatffe. was to discovarmg the North- west passage. When off 32 P -■% Vi^! if .y/'.' 242 '!^fi' ig:^?jp£U^'^vi P PROGRESS OP AKCTIC DISCOVERS r ward, he saw SS'Sif ^'frt'-^°°^^°« ^^*- North-west V^Z ^La^K^?^ discoyered the apparently a/ eXthe^^ one\f4"^^^^^^^ tion from the North Sea or Atlanti™c^erth« nfk ^''?" his position from the South Sea or Pfl^fi?n„ ^ff^' *® V saiHng 2.500 miles, and thfoth^by^^^ Parry-, in 1820. four-anrl ihi-^J^I. ^ samnff 1,800 miles. aS the ,iStoSId"^s't;Sf a^^^^^ America and China!" M'Cluje iV i«fii i^^der are ago, looked hopefuUyov^r thTs'aSe tp'.n'''* *^'*«\years and said, "Yonder ai^TlnW |^°^^/ce-covered channel '^ P . ?f ^ty n^iles of the sam^ sS>t^ ^^"«^' ^^''^^ and a trayeUi^Harty enfssed ^^^w.^^'^'a' ^'^^^« r„^^It:f t^°-^« ^^^^^^^re^^ Captain M'Ciure Sd intS./Tf^'*'"'"'' '^''-'y- » ''•"ch "At Ipntrfli ■«»„ »„»-i- *i .P «7 Xi 1 '""'*■*'""'' fl« language. — ■elf. are you Pua, ^^„w, capt«n KeUe^ S^^Tmi™ in^^^S^* %r DISCOVERY or THB KORra-WESr PASSAQR 243 winters. wiU^ lS^mi?i^^ P^'^^^' ^°^ *I^ee of the crew of +],f r ^ . ^^. **^® ^^^^^^ and a portion and tL fif^ A *f«,i^^*%«^or between October 1 1850 Number killed. Avpr«»««,»i i.» \- Average weight each. Total weight. Musk-ox Deer . . Hares . Grrouse . Ducks . Geese . Wolves Bears . 2781bs. 701bs. 61bs. not weighed. I,9451b8. 7,7161bs. l,0141bs. Total kiUed 1,005. - de^^Sjiwe?! HUe&ot?^"'' considerably, but, the deer were Cd totf vSv fe?^al?hr^^ ^^^ caution in shootiMtS^Thrl ^ ^?^pV. g^«»<^ P™- the herb^e wil'^^'''^.'^*^ *J«"^ ^^et in order to eat 'it' 2U PliOGIlESS OP ABOTIC D^COVERT. focated As soon as this^as co^ec^lv 1^1^^^^^^ persdix ^aB sent a con«iderSe dSXld th^/' ^ ■and a alight noise having been madp «f fl • t. , ^f^^' immediately run off-proibrpa7?LlS^^^^ Y^l^'^ Buch mstanfces that the^^chances of a «' kilKccired O "" hundred and ten deer .rere thus kiiled ;''*'^'^'^^^- . ^^^ Ihe grouse were not so wild as miD-liKl,o>J i, ' ■ pected;bnUhe wUd-fowl were sorewZt wilder fhf?, '^^■ usually found in Ireland and Scotlmd ^*° **""* escape fron. bein, torn to XTsf^'^TZ charge without iS taiireCrand^Lrg Tj^t .t"nSS2rb;as7:;i,dTo;pTdr^ ?^eI^"inT:s V' anmal was about to make the attack •" " ""' ' -U the expedition had had an, ODpottnnitv «f ™- an Jtf ^! S?;X ^[dtttl^e "4Mr» r^rz ?^rt,!- jJri^SFi^^.^-- f^^Torhtk-'^Thfsj^.fisLf '^ ^'" ^%' toightcr name Cn Zt of Bellot ^r^ ™"/''°'': * a« by his „„«inchin^ valour Li Sn^ " O^t^^^ have dpno justice to the memorr & his virtue,^ to hhn m-UrwnwicKmsJItai t)»»i'ucU«I the wirtl' -T"" "'''' '''"'■'' ">' «™ounce*JiscoTerT of the Korth-west p«,s.ge was generally receivedr j»t£ in .« ' % ?<.': . * m-'M-^ 1- «. 4 >■ V . I r - ^'1 • DISCOVERY OP THE WORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 245 .England and in America was somewhat surprising, fte cMstence of such a passage had been for three cen- turies reckoned among the most difficult and doubtM of ' pograp|M problems. Great prizes have been :.off6red * by public bodies and by private individuals for its practical solution ; and expedition' after expedition has 'been fit_ted out at va^t expense t» carryt on the investigation. ]F(i)r . ' this object hardships htive been endured and -dangers run m the Arctic Seas such as can be found m no other mari- ' time recoird. And yet, after all, whenithe result of this long reseao^h has been at last attained, and sober certainty ' takes the pWe of imaginative doubt, the fact does. not even excite im interest of a nine days' wonder. It mixes' m with the current of ordinary events, and quick^ pass.es ' froOT attention. * This is owing mainly to two reasons— the impression of the utter uselpssness of the .liaoovery for all practical .purposes, and the ui^iVersal leeling of " regret ^hat the li^s of so man$ ^Ua'ht men should have been sacrificed for such an end. 'Phe fact that Captain . M'Clure, of the Investigator, of whom, for the last three ^ years, more has been expected in the work of discovering traxics of Sir John Franklin/ than of any other individual ' 'has not been ^bje to obtain the least clue to the object 6f his search, has done mUch in destroying the intercajb in what he actually did accomplish. For years 4io has be6n ^ere no other ship has ever been before him. - BTo has d%overed new land, definfed a long extent of coast line •Vthat was before uncertain, held intercourse with a naif \ pebple, has verified the exislpnce of a North-west passage m the di6co4«ry of i| channel into Barrow's Strait from the open sen, so frequently seen by Franklin" and-^^others ' from the coaat of North America, jand, after bfeing ft-ozen nearly tlwee years in the ice, h^; almost succeeded, and doubtless in the end will quite su^jceed, m pushing hia . ship ihl-ough, and thus be the first man wha has ever saUed from the Pacific int<4^e Atlantic. And yet all of his achievements are hard^^ heeded in the disappointment thj^t nothing has been effected towards setthng tl«i bu^- *; ness on which the ship was specially despatched. The ' discovery of Qir John Franklin would bo wort^ethe ' diffPOVery. of * North-west pawago a thousand Gmes •> over. / . • -v.» WTiilart the public were eagerly awaiting inrbrma»ion ■j i i i T from ^# ^==1^ rtt»H the' tit litjurtps oxtraordSni t,- and the n^w AnrericaiQ ' i^< r» 1"^ . expedition, the 'oxtraordln^f^ announcement wi^f '.piaile ; , through the proas, that ifrd.n^e of Sir John Franklin - and hni comrades of the Erehitf, and Ttrrqr would be *■ ■f- i^ 0^ ;«-* \ %*■ ^ 'I •I' IPRGGRESs'oF ABC^O DttcoW. 246 Weforth ceaie. ^ ^^^'^ ""^^ «ad children woSd ^ P-e?M:pto^Ss"rfdl^^^^^ -to com. wluch tW had for maiwT^^^^^^ was atthadisposd^f FrrnKlrteTi, ""^ ^^^ ^^^ than to comrnunicate with Winter fe^^ *^^^.^«'« cabled Captain M<:;iure and his o^iSw ^^^^T"' ^^^ name of ^ have been swep? froi^i^^'^ft''^'^^ P^^^^bly , Whep men peril tW ^es in^L^A^ ^^^ service, fame and honour of their ctu^tj,^^" ^<^^ ^or the . the summary treatment ^S^d^wl '^^^^ ^«* '^««i^e . t^--apphedtpa not^'^^ffrar^^^^^^ tW, to makrthrj>&';ir^5*t« Americas object of his voyage whSh W?/*'^^^* This was the before 1852. IsZ^etj^tti^', f^^f* *« ^^'"P^^to that his case is different from n.^^in *^^ *««"niPtion , whoje ves«el. thejJnt,e'?L1^i?,Sl'l^"??^." .^'^'^«' of Mercy Bay ^^ Baringf Id^Td P Ir?^/'^^^^^ ^« ^'c'^ ^' readily procured thrSiLliouTS,. a .^'^' J^^ ^^^^^ «een, easily maintained ther^ 3 * ^^^.^^''f^^ ^ea ; health is . been penetrated in 2 eSrte ft °°^^ "^^ «"'^^«« bi tbo continued severity of s^n^f^-'^^'^^^^ ^^' owing to want of experience il theT.f i?'''^ ^^^*^'«' ^^ to the .J^oonehaaVetfpilowedPra^ltlTlf^^^^ ^^ traveh r-imless it be Dr. Kane tT« nff' ^i?5? ''P^" ^^^^^^ Sea " been wholly ineffifci.nX and ttv fn *' ^^'^^^ ™^« bave and cruel decision of t^e 'Br?? S ?^*^ ^*"^t the hasty ' were offic;ers behLd S L JohS fLI.1"^^'*^^ ^^ thIrS Jiotion their case could hav? bJ^^ ''^^^^P ^^ P^- differeut manner, at least T !» "* accommodated m a »«t of ParliamentTbut 'at a Sr"' ^ ^^- ^' "'^ ^^'*" cmhzetf world is deenlvinf ^^ment when the wholo nobly for b. rlt?iLClm ^^^ ^^^ "'^^^ - «ieir success, it seems whX T^ *^^ cherished for tbni^ an order nhouM bo Zu^f^/T/!;'^ "le.plicabJJ further efforts for his discove^' '^r'**""* ^ '^'««« ^^ have no^ Kone forw^T a^'^;,^/^/ f P^.d[tion« whic^ PISC!OVEKT 0» THE NOHTH-WEST PASSAGE. 247 plished for themselres. They went to Melville lalanl and left tit Winter Harbour a notice stating where the vessel was. A party of ^Captain Kellet's ipen found it^ and went immediately to the vessel, as the distance was only 160 miles. It is certain Sir John Franklin had the means to make the journey over ice and water, but if he were 600 miles fiirther west, locked Up. in the same manner, he would be compelled to wait there until relieved by the efforts of others. It was the common belief of Arctic navigators, and the belief has been partly accurately veri- fied, that a succession of islands lines the northwest coast from Baffin's Bay to beyond Behring's Strait. Failing to find an open passage from the Polar Sea, through, openings between those islands to that strait, Franklin* would of course winter, as did Captain M'Clure, in the most convenient and accessible harbour, and, no dotlbt, with the same result; Captain M'Clure took the inner • passage between those islands and the continent. The meiuis now exist for traversing, this entire region. #ith safetyi rapidity, and certainty. The question- whether or not Sir John Franklin and his comrades died jn the service of England could not be justly^ decided, in view ' of these acts, until after the intervenmg space betwaen the waters which flow into the Atlantic, and those which flow into the Pacific, had been thoroughly and in vain examined. The expedition of Capt. McClintock, and the intelligence he brought home in 1859, has i>ow set this questfon de- finitively at rest. We krtow the spot^here his ships were blocked up by ice, and- where they, were ultimatiely aban- doned, t At a dinner given in 1853, at his native towt of Lynn, to Lieutenant Cresswell, the bearer of Captain M'Clure 's .despatches to the Admiralty, Sir Ed^vrard Parry, who was present, thus spoke on the subjecrjif Franklin s fate :— " While we are rejoicing over the return of our friend, and thb probable return 'of his shipmates, , we cannqt but turn, to that which is not a matter of rejoicing, but iaihot a matter of sorrow and regret— that t»here has not been found a single token of our dear long-lost Kfanklin and his companions. Not only has that beyi the case ia#he ex- pedition hi which Lieutenant Gumey Cressw|I^%8 been engaged, but I understand it to be the case <4fl|^VJ^ward Dolchor, wh o h a a iftmtritt» t he W uUii iKl ^aBptsT ^he ie I Certainly thought traces must be foun(l,' ■#•. f----i^" - \ riEST INTBiLlbjEIfO^ OP THBIJl FATE. ^49 manto'look back if iue Jbelieved the thing was still possible. He majo hayjp got beyond the reach of our searching parties, for Sir Edwara Belcher has not been able to get far up, and we have npV been able to get the inveetigation completed. In, sjfe%l£ing of Franklin, every onp ■wiJl foel sorrow for hj.s pfobable fate. My dear friend Franklin was 6© years old when he left this country*; and I shall never forget the zekl, the almqst youthful enthusiasm with which that' -mfeti entered upon that expedition. Lord ^Haddington, who was then First Lord of the Admiralty, ^^nt for mjB, and said, 'I see, by looking at the navy hst, tliat Franklift is 6C^ years old": do you think we ought to let b.im gb P' I said, ''He is z. fitter man to go than any I know ; and if you don't let him go, tlie man will die of disappoint- ment.' * He did ^0, and has been gone eighl years; and, tlierefore^ I leave to yourselves to consider what is the probability of the life of that excellent and v'alvable man. In the whole course of my experience I have never known a man like Franklin. Xdo not say it beosjft^se he is dead — upon the "principle rfc mortui nil nisi bonVm,; but I never kneWa man in whom different qualities wer« soTemarkably combined, -vjn my dear friend Franklin, with' all the ten- derness of heart- of a simple child, thertf -was all the grcat- neag'and magnanimity of a hei JHE MYSTERY OF T|[Elfe FiSPE SOLVED. " All the foregoing observations kre.notir. of little avail, for detailed particulars of the fate of Sir J[^n« Frankliu and his fellow-Voyagert have come to hand. What has bacn all along feurftjised h|p really taken place, and the melan- choly fact that most, if Hot all, "perished from starvation, has been revealed in tcmig too sad and dreadful, to dwell upon. "^ * ' ^News has coine at la8t,«but the glooraiesft predictions fall far short of the ho'rro^^ of their actual fate. We aU were forced to adfeiit that the ships might have been wrecked — that their crews might have fallen victims to the plemewts —-but slow, lingering starvtifton,' protracted only by the most horrible "expedient to' which man in his agopy can resort — these were miseries none of us' had anticipated. The si^stance of this sad intelligence is as foliaws : — Br. 1^e,\rf the Bljudson's Bay Company, and so well known as ai^ Arctic voyager, arrived irt Lond6n, October 3^d, 1851, with the tidings that, wUilijt engaged in tho aurVoy of Boothia, he foir in with a party of travelling KsqilMaux. Theae men informed him that another body 4, r , <. 260 ^^■*, J JBO0BBSS OP ABOTIO DISOOVEBr. r were found, and five (no dS +2. « . ^™r-'expedition, that ' 1848 andll49^ut i?«^.n ^^""^T ^^^ ^^^d them in . return at S whei mZ'^^^ " ^'^W ^^ rP'^dent o ttioughthe sho^ wJ^^r'"'^''^ Arcti..voyagers l^^SSlS:1^"V^^-edy, ass^eed nshedso sadly but si nob^^d tha! of S^"" V^^ P^" comes back with news at l^t ^.A ^ ^^ P""" ^^' ^^o • versed the iiumediatTvicinTtv^^^tt.^^^'T^ ^^ re-tr^.^'^S were found by the EsqSimalx ^.?/ ''^!i:^ *^^ tions could not probSjTw f. ^ * ^""^^ *^^«« «^Pedi- the fate of the mLsbg ^^^^ though set at rest. ^ voyagers would have been earUer cie^t^ir^XncS^^^^^^^ '^ "^^ '^^^^ ^' -ffi- without^aitinTto TnSoT^^^ '"^^"^ *" ^"^^^d' actually seen the bo£s X truth 0/??^/^ ^^-^ " Sir John Franklin «nrl h,\, ■ ^* *^® oestruct on of but too evirnfbyThl twdrcroTLTv'TT^^^^^^^ tives, seen by Dr 5.1,7 W i . , ^* ^^^^h the na- decorated witlbSs^of^de';^^^^^^^^^ They were spoons and other articlea of «1?^ 1 ?^ °^''"' »»d with Sir John FranklinTniL ""^ ^'''^f' ^^« of which had Of some of the officers ofThT^ '^V"^ ""^^ *1^« initials are ^lerefore butTf serLaJ^"^'*'^^^^ ^""^^^ d«<^« world would be JadVw ythfE'^^^'^l^^^^^^ ^^^^ or papers that murht Sst ^m« *^J Preservation of books pa/e of Arctic Slr/^^^ ^'^^^ «" ^«. the saddest JAd^b^g°i ^^ ^^- ^^-'- ^Po^ to the Secretary " Havmg explained to him my object LsaTdVh.'f.Y"' '^^^^ ^^ J'«"' »«• had come was the best for us nnH . • ,- '^* *''^' '"o^d by which h^ we travelled with more fad Ut^ Wrwefe f '''^""' '''' ™«^'« ^''^-^ the natives, who had been absentTea rfnr'' ''"'""^ by anothc'of anxious to gee us, had visited nnr= '^"^-hunt'ng yesterday, but I/oinir then followed up' our tS ' ThisTan wT' ^-^X tWs Lming '2 on putting to him the usual qle ions arto'h7,'"™™""^*^«"^^' ""^ man" before, or any ships or boats he re'ii^d in *k*''°« '""" " ^^ bite that a party of" Kablounans" had dfed?f . a^*' negative ; but said . the west of where we then were a„d bevl. 'f^'^" " '*'"« ^^'^^^- to ' that he did not know th<' pv„;» . ^ J**^ '^ ^'"^^ "ver. He stitorl and that he could nTacc'L^SySl'S'iir"^ '^^ -ver had beer/^ He also adds : „ From what I could learn fh^-^ « Tioleru^e had been offered t"'the suffe're^b'vr" *?• '"'^* ^l*** «n7 List of artic'es purchased f«om f f i^ ^ ^^^^ natives. ' Obtained at the pla'cewheett bod :s^;^^^^ '^'^ *» have been . (Alexander M'DtMiaid. be handed Y arrival in ' seen the bodies were there, arid I. as I do Jng put in 3, however interesting 'tained an passed the i deer shot g journey ■s, several taught me ':pedition. Xl:— itrfligent hiH man in a few join us. fhkh he sledges, )thor of :, b'oing ig, and c, and ' white lit said , mcv to stated tl»ere. an7 been have 1 Hiii- ist, a Ifials fork mi ;" head fpon,. laid. IIELICS BEOUGHT HOME BY DR. UAE. 253 Msistant-surgeon, Tirror); 1 silver table ftrk^initials, " G. A M" (GiUlps A. Macbean, second-master, ^Terror) ; 1 silver table fork— initials, - J. T. ;" 1 silver dessert spooii— initials, " J. s. P " (John S Sf^lTin^^Fn?; f*"^)' f «>"°'l "l^er plate, engraved, "Sir John' G R liL,ScCCxV."^ "^'^ motto. "J^reca.i,em%.Ven<, Also a numberofother^illes With no marks by which they could be recognised, but which will be handed over with those above-named to the Secretary of the Hon. Hudson's Bay Company. John Rae, M.D. In addition, and by way of further explanation to the loregomg observations, I may state that a dolphin's head, between wmgs, is the crest of the family of Sergeant ; and the silver table forks may therefore have belonged to Mr l^obert O. Sergeant, mate of the ^Erebus. A dove with the ohvebraoch, and motto, " Spero meliora," isthecre^tof the tamily of Fairholme, bf Greenhill. The motto, " Nee aspera terrent," la that of the Guelphic order, which had been be- stowed upon Sir John Franklin, who was a K.C.H., and not a K.C.B. The crest, a conger eel's head between two epngs (or a dolphin's head, as it is sometimes portrayed) belongs to the Franklin family. Dr. Peddie waa surgeon of the Terror, and not of the Erehus. ■ The articles of plate identified would seem then to have belonged to Sir John Franklin, Lieutenant Fairholme Mr. Goodsir, and Mr. Sergeant of the Urchus, and to Captain Crozier, Mr. M'Donald, and Mr. Peddie, of the Terror. The table fork marked " J. T." it is difficult to appropriate to any one. The only persons in the expedi- tion with these initials were James Thompson, gunner, and John Toirington, leading stoker, both, of the Terror] but these were not likely to have arti^|tof plate. , The latter died, and was buried at Beechey :ra^kd. The initials may have been mistaken for thoseof Lieutenant John Irving, of the Terror. Although the specified articles evidently once belonged to the. above-named officers, it cannot be admitted that they aocouut clearly for their fate, however strong the presumption may be, for it is just po88il?le that the silver may have been pilfered from the abandoned and ice- im^risoned ships, or exchanged with the Esquimaux for articles of food. ' , ' Ou the very juatural supposition that parties pressed for food', and. Aindng peaceable Esquimaux, woiiid rather divide than unite, it cannojb be affirmed tMt the f^te of all the gallant band of Arctic explorers is definitely aaeer- tflined - ^^:' , r i. ': . g . y . a a. T . -.« , . — . , ,.«,. ■ ■ ,.., „ — ., „ . , - .-. .. ... ^ . . — ^^ . . ■■-._ 'According to the account given by the Isqrffmaux to. Vr, liae, a partyl of white men, ''some forty in nnm- 254 PEOGEESS Ot AEOrao DISOOYBbT. . lib' our "£'S^h ^»'* "^^^^"°^ ^^ ^oCso you consider the following rem^k^CATX T'V''^''^' '^^^ As I have not the Blue Books ZthJ if ^^^'^^ ^^^'^^^^ ■— by me, I may make some eiror il mv ^fn^^^''* °^ ^'•««« discovery memory serves me. the last "ews ^^ad' frr"^' ' ^*' «« ^^^ «« m? 1845. was that he had provisions^ thrf "" ^'^ '^°''° I^ankhn, ij three years, which he could mX w J f^' ""' somewhat more tW .tf explain the dlfeJpUce^S' "t IT/''''''' "»>' """See/ / ' ^/'/r DH. bae's explanations. 255 !ftvelJitig • It was of some ive been T twelve npany'a, le truth pace of aimaux had it lunger, ' which [uently •arties, 5*ozen, which which '^ na has „ flapse , . at the nes," can I ditioa >r all n on 9 lost ™^80 lould very my 1, in ban ' of a and ling i of 3 of Bed }n8 ing ioh ras Supposing that the provisions carried from England by the expedi- tion did last four years (by the end of which I have no doubt the «rew8 of the vessels woald be much reduced in numbers^ and ttiose that survived greatly debilit^ited), the party would be wholjy thrown on the greasy, rancid, salted waterfowl, which I believe most Iiersons will agree with me in thinking would increase the fatality of scurvy. If it already existed, or cause that dread disease if it had not previously made its appearance. This may account rationally for so few white men having been seen by the natives. Again, " as to all the dead being found at or near the same place." Nothing is more natural or more easily accounted for by a person of experience in the Arctic Seas, and whose mind is properly constructed. Let us for a moment picture to ourselves ajMftyof gallant men reduced by wan|;, and perhaps disease, to n^ftxtremity, -pushing their way to the mouth of a large river, suchaPKe Back, the ice on which they expected would break up in a short time and permit them to embark in their boat. Having arrived near such river the strength of some had failed, so that they could not travel even when un- attached to the sledge, and the others were unable to drag them. What step would brave men take in such a difficulty ? My reply ' would be — cling together — stop, and let the stronger endeavour to kill game for the support of themselves and the weaker until the ice broke up, then embark, turn by turn, in the boat, and thus travel with much greater ease and speed than when on foot.- The Esquimaux whom I saw at Pelly Bay preceded me to Repulse Bay, and, when I returned, were living in the most friendly terms with the three men left in charge of our property there. None of- tfifese men understood a word of the Esquimaux language, yet I was iniormed by them, before I had communicated any of my news, that they believed a party of white men had died of starvation far to the westward, and that they had been reduced to a very dreadful alternative before death. On my asking my i^nfo^mant8 how they had discovered this, they replied, by the signs made them by the natives. , I may add, in support of what I have already stated regarding men carrying with them useless articles on having to abandon their ship in the Arctic Sea, that I have since learnt from the best authority — Sir John Rosd himself — that in effecting his wonderful escape, after a three years' detention in Prince „ Regent's Inlet, he distributed his silver plate among the men, rather than leave it behind, and thus\ brought most of it to' England with him. -, At the opening meeting of the Eoyal Geographical Society f«r the Session, Ifovember 13th, 1854, Dr. Rae read a paper descriptive of* his lag* ioumey, and exhibited the relics he had brought home,%hich excited consider- able interest in a very large audience. In reply to a number of questions, Dr. Eae said tha^ he did not himse lf speak t he- la nguage n51f(5nd""sr¥g^TeW^^Fdi ; Me facts afescrib^il^^bytne™" Esquimaux were interpreted to him by a native interpreter who accompanied the expedition. This man spoke the , ^ >. fe 0> 4J> IMAGE EVALUATION (C TEST TARGET (MT-3) A • t 'V. I '^ 1.0 I.I ■U 1^ 1 2.2 2.0 111 . L25 111 1.4 11 1.6 i-"«» %. !%r i-;- t riiotographlc > Sdeices CorpCrdlion . 33 WIST«MAIN STHIT WItSTM.N.Y MSaO (7U) •7a-4)03 k 4^ « ^^\Cv ."0 % ■%.' ) ^. ^ / J \ \ ^ \ I • 4 ' r 256 PE0GBES8 OP ABOTIC mSCOVt^J, English Lmguage as ^ntly as he (Dr P^\ a-a j t had reason to believe ihli tL v-l^. iCae) did, and He . r««i^ who recomm7nded him \^^ Wworthv. The tad known for yeSs told h m'fW I^^"^ ^^ (^'- «*«) never a rogue JllTih^n^'^J^^' ?f JJ^^^ ™' tills case the man had no interest^fJln^^ ^'^H ^ Esquimaux attempted to Lposf^ i^f^^^r^' "^^ ^^ ^ was easy to detectliim hy^^ZTes^^^t T"" y°".^* rehcs found Were a nortion S +1? i ^'^?* ^mong the both to Sir John-P?Shn IndcJ^-^''^''^ heh^ging imtt.the statementrraSe bv tL ^i^- ^°W' '^^^ * i^" Conclusive as to the fX^f tL^V ^^^ ^^^^S^ opinion that if the party diid«nr, f J "^r^""4fiiimde8fromwhflrA+k«u^j.-^JlB ex^nt^fabo^t tSeXnl^^ the-JartrrVSJ had been found. A vesdil^L^ from where the bodie^i' might reach ChesterfieldWvJT? f'^-g^^'^l ^^^ ^^^^ ret^ the same year imotwti",^ ??P^«« Bay an! by Beechey Islan'drndSl^'sS "^^^^* ^^ «e^^ i^ha^p^'oolt^r^^ Kg mef t^ "^"!i ^^ «^ ^-^ effects of famine-the sTmi, Iw *^^T. ^"^ ^^n* the •oncealedtiem and^ ih^^r^J^"^ "^J^?^ ^^ ^^ti^erto expedition i. hangrnrote?^^^"^^:^/^ »* ^fortunate trate as far a« the Arctio L «f ru c'\ ^^^^ «^er pene- ton Channel, f«)m whenci S^ m^f^^ *> WeEing- returned P How lon^^^ if -Edward Belcher has iusfc ^™ -lid tpia^^^'^'^f «t Boeoh^lJl itocertam, and are vet sevAi^w^ f^P*/ AJl,. this is yet •f opinion, althougrtheyS W ^^" <^^r«'^^^'» An,i««* L , « "fipymigut all be rev ealed Vpaperi ^^^^^C^^, ^^^;^^^ /„ \yx^?r '?-\", -^ ^^"^^^^ r^ -^-^j^" f^^i-v ^sssr^t^-^l Tiis^EfefT-sr SSQFIMADX mPOBXS. , 250 a^^sof NoTs °^ '^i"' ?" °'"*<'™ ""d western ™^°^^1 "±f '"^P" •"■ ^ J-o^*'- Franklin's partv are must have passed beyond his Wn rihe t^;,tw.?^^ the beHef ^«ti?^'...rl u ' '^tement melinea one to • So" would hrincT ^"J ^!! 'f'*''' " "'■o" 'oaoon. rt>" would bring the event to the SDrine of ISBO Ti,™ the 2^/-«c/oi,e, given at page 70 of the "Papers and Por 3^«rat^^rhpffii^:i%^^^ lour pea^ons on the west aide of IWenfs Inlet anFfhaJ two Bhins^1fwL-^1'^ "'"?" ^^ *^^ Esquimaux showed wo Ships with theip topmasts down, «nd two with theiri up, corresponding to tlie ships of FranklTn Td R^ Kiere were one or two points in which there was^videnX tr^ Xra^r* ^'^^'^ ^^ the commrcarn\"tweeJ £x£^*^-^^^^^^^ rthttht fsiS both the Eiquimapj tooomit. ooi^de in stating Fraiil^^ $ \\ ( 260 PBOGB£SS OF ABCTIC DISCOVEBT. shjpd or pqrty^to Be on the western side of North Somer- set, one in 1849. and^the other in 1850. What became of tnem between the summer of 1846, when we know thev were at Beechey Island, and August, 1800, when we know they had left it, is still a mystery. ' - ^ tjie abs^ee of any full or detailed information, it may be well to collect and^onnect the scattered links of infor- mation which may appear to throw any further light on the fate of the ships and explorers. It should be remem- bered that inAu^st, 1850, three male Esquimaux coprniu- Hicated at Cape York, on the eastern coast of BafSn's Bay ^th the people of KM.S. Intrepid, and boats' crews of the ±*rtnce Albert and Sir John TU)Ba'ayaGhi Felix, the pur- port of their statement was to the following effect :— ^" That in the winter of 1846, when the snow was falling two ships were broken by the ice, a good way off, in tlie direction of Cape Dudley Diggs, and afterwards burned by a fierce and tiumerous tribe of natives. "They asserted that the ships were not whalers— and tJiat epaulettes, w6re worn by some of the white men. " ITiat a part of the crews were drowned; that the re- mainder were some time in huts, or tents, apart from the Wtiyes; that they had guns, but no balls; were in a weak and exliausted condition, and were subsequently killed by , the natives with darts or arrows." At the time, this statement was considered highly im- probable: but the subsequent accounts received now add colour to the truth of part, at least, of. this report. In tlie evidence taken before tke Arctic Committee, this matter was inquired into, and it appeared that Adam Beck, in a conversation heha^with Erasmus York, another Esqui- maux, stated that-^*' In 1846, tVo ships, with three masts, went from our land to Omanak; they arrived safely, but tlie men ^e d?ad. Two Ships were encompassed *)y the ice; otherwise they could not do. Their provisions were consumeii. The men went to them; it is said they are dead. Beck stated/he heard this from the natives at Cape York. In the year 1846 (it is adde^, wherf the ice began to break, they set sail, and went to Omanak, and stay ed there dunng the wmter, because they could not proceed on account of the ice. ^ Dr. Bae, in his previous survey of the Arctic shores, picked up, o n the 20th August, 1851, a piece of pine wood. y^^tHttai^tnurfa ml^rCTtr IttTO^gg the butt end of a flag-staff, and was five feet nine inches in length. It had a curious mark, apparently stamped upon it, ■j«. OPINIONS AND PEOBABILITIES. 261 axyd to it was ftttachbd a piece of white line, fastened hj two copper tacks, boit of wnich had the Government mark of the " broad arrow" upon,them. About a mile ftirther on, a piece of wood, which proved to be oak, was discovered on the water, but touching upon the beacfi. It was about three feet eight inches long, and Dr. Eae supposed it to be a , stanchion. Dr. Eae assumed from the circum^ance of the flood tide coming from tiiie north, alon^ the eist shore\of Victoria Island, that there was a water channel dividing that island frqm North Somerset, and thifi was subse- quently proved by more recent explorers to be the case. Through Ommanney Inlet, or Peel Sound, as it has since been named, therefore these .pieces of drift wood must have come. Private letters received from Captain Collinson state that when his ship, the Enterprise, was in Cambridge Bay, a portion of a companion door, with the Queen's arms stamped upon it, was picked up, which, it is supposed, belonged to the Erehus or Terror. In 1852, Mr. Kennedy discovered a passagflfUhrough Brentford Bay into Victoria Strait ; crossed it, and travel- led over Prince of Wales Land to the bight of Om- manney Bay, in 100 degrees west. Thence he proceeded up to Cape Walker, and returned to his ship, in Batty ]^y, Regent Inlet, via Port Leopold, without finding any traces of the missing expedition, although he must have crossed the probable route of the retreating party to the continent. He Ahen observed, in a letter to Captain Pullen ^f the North Star, dated Beechey Islaiid, 20th Augu^, 1852:—" There is a strong probability that Sir John Franklin may have been carried through one of those channels that may be supposed to gxist oetween Om- manney Inlet and Victoria Strait." The first journey made by Mr. Kennedy and Lieut. Bellot, with their party, waa .in mid wmter, when, in the absence of the sun, they had to travel by moonlight, and sleej) in siiow houses. In March (1852) Mr. Kennedy and his narty spent six hours in the examination of Fury Beach, and the store of pro-- visions, «Sm3., left there by Lieut. Eobinson, of Sir James Ross's expedition in 1849, and he satisfied himself that no human footsteps had been there since. Sir John Franklin, havmg abandoned his ships some- where to the south-east or south-west of Cape Walker, when his provisions were nearly exhausted, probably — ffittde for feg^istfaiimB-xTf-Bootfaiar^Ht w hliih-wiiffltt II life was known, in some seasons, to aboimd; but their Btrength and supplies then became exhausted, and their ,■ ^- t- -V, ^ - • 2a2_^PRd^lE88 OF ASmc BISCOYEET. tarty decreased by famin« T«,^ 'hisetpedition, MrBh^+h.T^ ^^"^°« attached to. and Mr: M'Dondd S^' • ! ^^'f-^naster of the r^-ro? vessel were weraeqnJn^^^^^ the wTe formerhavingbeentUew't^^^^^^^ t^e and the Jatter havintr marii ««lf i ■^'^"^tho Victorv vessels, and bein/acqSaSLdwSwf'^"^^^^ ^^ ^alS ^gent Inlet ancf ©XT&f %2'^^' ^^^^S betwe^S resources of Boothia nn^ +1,^ • i.*?"^ *"* account of the Inlet, &c., and its c^^bihtLt^ susitr^^^^^^ «^^n ; ^ P^«^»e?« remarks at pageriS and l^Q ^^i'S.%^ """^ ^^^^r for reaching and search^nf Sir J^I^bI^^'* ^4^ /The plan ' Straits from the south is alsi poS^,? \ '^"^ Stepson's In a letter from Sir James C-R.l' ^^^^^^ ^^L that the season of 1846 w^tL^^rJ^T' "^ ^^Sl. he states known (or many W;^,*^/^^««* jev^^^^^^ been higher latitude than H^onthl JttJ^^^^^ '^'P« attained a side of Baffin's Bay whth Lt ^*" '^^ ^^° o^ the west amall advance to the we^ftl^A f ^P®°^«o% tad made but k -e^on on84S;,J^irttmi^::^^^^^^ fevouratle' ' awappomtment to them fn i,„ • • ®^ * flource of deen their expectation^ T^k Si^^!!7^^t«'?/ bo far short o? ««8uredry did not eithe? ih^l848 o^ IsiS ''"'^"^ «« they It was not therefor*, au tu ? ^^^' 1847, that the shTpfwere liW^^^^^ l.^^^' or early in have ^ot embayed ?n some of ft*'*£- • ^bably they Lr from kelville L^d ertU^teeV'^f^^-^^ ^^^nj the Enterprise and 7n«X/;I^ I the Contment, in which Jt IS impossible, in the absence of ? *^7 ^^,"= *heir shL tare. It appears to ha^e been abouTth''*^'' ^ ~"J«^- before they reached the cor.f?n«^ ^^'^^^ ^^a™ longer m^^^ "-^^deavouring toZ*» . *°d the party wf^ Fish Bxver to Fort ChLhi? on ntd' ^^p''^ *^^ ^^^^^ A smgular feaf nf« .« +1, . -"""Son s Bar. visited ^m^^XZlV^tT^^^^ *^^t ^hile £r. Eae has l«tfiveycarsI]gcpXBav ^^^^ coasts within the of Wol astonIslan§--and^&^ pons iilrtn« « i^ xi ^ - ""ego ni a nvgQiiPni»v»>. ^ BHIFS SEEN ELOATnra TQ SEA. 263 3pe- witli Ae knowledge of how widely that littoral people, tha' Esquimaux, travel, no previous tidings of any oiFranklin's parties should hfive become known.' In 1848, Dr. Richardson, in his searching journey be- tween the Coppermine and Mackenzie rivers, met large parties of Esquimaux oh the coast, 300 at Point Encounter, ^ and lesser numbers at most of the headlands, on the look« out for whales. In making for the Great Fish River, the retreating party were evidently desirous of avoiding the scene oijs Franklin's former frightful sufferings 'in ascending the Coppermine River. Doubts were long expressed as to the truth of the vessels seen upon an iceberg ; but it seems now very ^s- sible that these may have been Franklin's abandoned ships. Mr. A. G. Findlay, ia a paper read at the last meeting of the British Association at Liverpool, " On Arctic Currents,** expressed his belief in the truth of* the story of the two three masted vessels seen floating on the ice at the North edge of Newfoundland, on the 26th of April, 1851, by the Renovation. One of these ships was represented to be about 500 tons, the other 350 tons, andHboth had their top- masts struck and yards down, and all made snug, and to all appearance had passed the winter together. It had been •urged that Sir John Franklin would not abandon his ships; that they could not float uninterruptedly such a distance ; that they would have been seen pj the sealers on the Labrador coast ; that the account in the log diffe^d materially from the verbal statement ; that they were not real ships, &c. ; while others set down the story as a pure invention. "Well, they had to conibat these statements, and against them w^re the consistent statements of the whole crew as wdl as of Mr. Simpson, the passenger. " ; As to the possibility of the two ships floating at such a distance in company with each other, there never was the slightest doubt of the southern set out of Baffin's Bay and Davis's Straits, and.the auantity of ice moving was very great. It was the prevailing opinion of Arctic vovagers 3iat Sir John Franklin weht itt> the WeUmgton Channel in the early spring of 1846. Supposing that he did so, and found open water, and could proceed for five hundred miles, and then became imbedded in the pack, the ships would d rift Jb a ck to t h ^ We llin gton Channel toward the north coatet of Greenland, or he migjit have taken a second season ; or, perliaps, he became imbedded, and being impatient of Deuig so detained for three or four 'i V - - Y ■ 2M PBOflMss or ^Bcnc i.i8oov.,r. years, had deserted fl.« „i.- Investiaator, wluS%essel k^t'S/?^ <^« «««« of the -^.Uoutinthe:::SeVtte^^h?^^^^ Si^^nThf^^^^^ the captain, Mr W confinnatory e^(^ce wm Ih2- 1"^^^' ^^ additional Mecldenbur« briFtlip V^/^*^^^"^ed from the mate nP o at New Yorf hr&ay%ir/T.fTf^ ^^^' ^^ S^vaJ great deal of ice onVe^^f/*^^ *^f ^e ^ad met^^^ of Sir James iS^^s" S w£f "^^ ^' ^'^^^^^y the case the ice at the rate of S: Si T*' ""f^'^^ bodily ^Uh Sound; Captain B^cki ^l.i^'^l'.^^^y through Wc^tPr Won IsCd in 1837 and I'J ^f^i.™ ^^^^d offSouth ships, wWch were cSdWhS *H'^" "^^^^^ Grinnell" Ws Straite seated Sl*,S^t^^^^««*«' Sound i^'tS ■I have aJready aJluded S^^^^^. S"- John ^bb'b pa^'f^'^} .^Y'^^^t' *^ *i« difficult!, abandoning their sS SSu^h travelhng over ice artcr and sub-division of ffbour ^^^ by nroper arrangementJ i^ subsequently beeSre^^^^^^^ W' i^'^l^^'^is among ice are «S ^^'"''^ ^d healthy voyagers, to S/rpa^^, «PJ«-^^^ ?f the leadinT^^'ct' pages 166 and 190, m£^r%^t^^T ^^echey's FeiSri too far distot (S^^^f^^'-'fa^tland ttd not tl P^e 164 thinks it is in iS 7^ N "it"'"' ^is, ^dlt n?™ ^ fffioted with scur^woS'd ^'"' T ."^ op^iion p„ih,"'oat unportant news l^t ,„ •'^? *° ""eir ihips ;t'o rtC]arence on th« j jlut nf vf. '"'"''^d " the amV a r.f ■ •^ « tne .e.^ rf Sir jS,n i?.^"^'''''"^ JJ-/^ W ■ ^:- :- ^^i. INtBBPBISB Ain) HfTVEBTIGATOR. ?65 lected tihat this vessel sailed from Eogland in the same fea- son and at about tiie same time as the Investigator (Captain M'Clure), which arrived on the Atlantio siife of the conti- nent a year since, having determined the North-West passage. No news having been received of the Enterprise for several vears, almost as>much anxiety was felt for her safety and that of her officers and crew, as for the expedition she was sent in search of; so much so as to induce the Government to station for her relief and assistance the . Rattlesnake^ at Port Clarence, 'and the Ftover, at Point Barrow, during the winter of 1853, and they were both arranging for their succeeding winter quarters at the time the J^»' -^ y — -^ ^ " - Since the foregoing details were published efeveral years ago, some further mostr interesjpg and important parti- culars have been deceived. PWyears after the publica- tion of I\r. Bae's report, confirmatory evidence reached us obtained dii*ectly on the spot. ^ » So many fruitless efiorts.had' beeuftoade in the search after the missing expedition that the. public mind had almost given way to despair. But there was still one who hoped i^ainst hope, and the screw yacht Fox, under the command of Capt. M'Clintockj^was sent oulKin the spring of 1857 at the expense of Lady Franklin. On\he 21st of September, JLSSQ, the Fox arrived again i)p. the Channel, and Capt. 21'Clintook reported his returnJmhe Admiralty in the despatch civen below. - -^ . Capt. M'Ciin^ck has thus added anotheiT plume to hia previous Arctic laurels. / ^ . „, ,^ ■ Yacht Foif(^li.Y.S. . Sir,— I beg you will iqform the Lords Commissioners -of the Admi- ralty of the safe return to this country of lW Franklin's -Final Searching Expedition, which I have had the h(|i^ to conduct. Their Lordships will rtjoioe to hear that ourradeavoura to ascer- tain the fate of the " Franklin Expedition" ha«e met -with complete mtcoess. * a.**^ FAt Point Victory, upon the North-West rt victory. . -kubwnt^?***!^ recognised Mr. Pet!Sl!l * communicated with • from theTS^t' , JL*^'^"*"*"* dog dS^J^/J- Kane, m reply Sound. H^K. ?^®' ^^^y told us that h« »- J ^^^ »^Wnd « his lonSwj! ^,"° '*^j"-« I would most Viadl h '"'*"*'"« "* ^hale ~ ehores. '^'^ ^^ ""• °or have any «5^^ver driftlT '*^ '^•" It was not until ♦>. ' ««" ever drifted upon their «or haci „y Sillf ^"t"'* expedition had Zme o t,.??*°« *''•*- , "" ^P^tJi«"'«nicato overland erSj^ ■'^i^ '. ' >« ibieebeen, wintered the Great which we ditlons to les Boss, t>y aledge ' > Captain i>t]e8s be '■r with a opportu- nforma- Viotory. Strait«,> irittaf h, and ' in and 'ed to with; merly reply ehind ^bale him, ;ive«, visit . ;heir ilet, B of Bin- are nd. len ^ uit •le. At- ed of - H i Id IV 7 OAFT. M'CLHrTOOK'S IXPEDITiOW. 260 winter with the tribes at Igloplik:** they all knew of Parry's fhips having wintered there in 1832-8, and had heard of late years of J)r. Kae's visit .to Repulse Bay, describing his boats as similar to our whale boat, and his party as living in tents, within snow-houses, smoking pipes, shooting reindeer, &c. None died. They remained there only one winter. No rumour of the lost expedition has reached them. Within Pond Inlet the natives told us the ice decays away every year, but so long as any remains whales abound. Several larjg^ whales were seen by nl, and we found among the natives a considerable quantity of whale- bone and many narwhals' horns, wliich they were anxious to barter for knives, files, saws, rifles, and wool ; they drew us some rude charts of the inlet, showing that it expands into an extensive channel looking westward into Prinee Regent Inlet. We could not but regret that none of oar whalidg fMends— from whom we had recently received so much kindness — were here to profit by so favourable an opportunity. Leaving Fond Inlet on the 6th of August, we reached Beechy Island; on the lltb^kd landed a hand- some marble tablet, sant on board fbf this purpd^Py Lady Franklin, bearing an appropriate inscription to the memory of our lost country- ,'inen in the Ertbua and Terror. The provisions and stores seemed in perfect order, but a small boat was much damaged from having been turned over and rolled along the beach by a storm. The roof of the house received some necessary repairs. Having embarked some coals and stores we stood in need of. and touched at Cape Hotham on the 16th, we sailed down Peel Strait for twenty-five miles on the 17th, but finding the remainder of this channel covered with unbroken ice, I determined to make for Bellot Strait on the 19th of August, examined into supplies remain- ing at Port Leopold, and left there a whale boat which we brought away iVom Cape Hotham fbr the purpose, so as to aid us in our retreat should we be ^obliged eventually to abandon the Fox. The steam launch had beeri'fiiroed higher up on the beach, and somewhat damaged by the ice. ' Prince Regent Inlet was unusually ft^e IVom ice, but very little was seen during our run down to Brentford Bay, which we reached on the 30th of Angast. Bellot Strait, which communi- cates with the western sea, averages one mile in width by seventeen or eighteen miles in length. At this time it was'filled with drift ice, but as the season advanced became perfectly clear ; its shores are in many places faced with lofty granite ollfb, and some of the adjacent hills rise to 1600 feet ; the tides are very strong, running six or seven knots at the springs. On the 6th of September we passed through Bellot Strait without obstruction, and secured the ship to fixed ice across its western outlet. From here, until the 37th, when I deemed it necessary to retreat into winter quarters, we constantly -watclied the movements of the ice in the western sea or channel. In mid- channel it was broken up and drifting about ; gradually the propor- tion of water increased, until at length the ice which intervened was reduced to three or four miles in width. But this was firmly held fast by numerons islets, and withstood the violence of the autumn gales. It was tantalising beyond description thus to watch Arom day to day the fi'ee watoi nliieii mq could uuM w ash e d th e rocky shore a few miles to the southward of us i During the autumn attempts were made to carry out depots of pro* visions towards the magnetic pole, but these almost entirely flailed in cousequenoe of the disruption of the ioe to the southward. Lieut. < 2«> lEoGBBSS 01 ASOno 1.ISC0TE8T. Hdbson returned with fh«. -i ^ 3ce of w«i„„-r -:*.?*•*»• sailing master, was to eUt. npr„;ir„„v. ^.._,. trace re^hore of ;• ''''*^'^" ^l'«° Yo«n^lb saifi? "'^ "'''''^"^ »« >nH I . ^^ 1 rince of Waleq T o«^ *^ ^^ sailing master, was to magnetic doIp i„ *i. '^ I-and, while iWent ««.,fhr 7 "* ^^^ ^^P^t I waa accompanied by Mr p . *'^^^* h» .1 :" "'"'t « ■mall pM-tr o the Ice In snow hL f^Z ^^ ^^-^J^^Wx families Uv^L . bwn seen ofr v<- «L'. "^™ them we leamod Th.l "* <*••* upon - ^ J xkIvv r?" _ " "° ot>tained , y iflt f1n>T ,^-4i 4 >■ J% ^ _ ~'\f,pSpXfl^ CAPT. M*OLI|f ■ ^ •^■?t^r J!XPEpiISC0TEET. We caira nl^'p'^^^'^Z^^'^l^obson pitched hi« tent beside a ca ™ £ * ^"'' *^« substance of wwrh lA^^«* ™*" "" "^e con- lUh of June, 1847. On the sandAf a n' *^«^nklln died on the abandoned fire leagues to the NN w ^^'^i' ^«*«' '»»« s^Ps were survivors. lOfi in number landed f^'^:""^ ^«^"* Victory, ind thi Crozier. This paper SS ditS AprTa^h"; *^^„ command'^of Sptlfn day they intended to start for the SL^S'k ®«*^ *"** ^"^ the following deaths in the expedition up to thirSL^^'' ^T*""' The total lo^Sf men. A rast quantity of cLhin2 .«.i ! "^^^ °'°« oncers and fifteen about, as if hew every^aiUe was th>i- ^'^ *" "^'^^ l«y strfwS dispensed with : PloZiIS^" hreJ^^'T^^T'''^^ '^^^^ pJ»iS7S i ;utei^?'?t"° *^^^"°»»l information ^' •**' ^^'^ ^ ^^V. in/rlnfTa'pe^^erhTSK^^^^^ within a fe. days* of natives. He leftfbll iSorm-M ^'Pf *"^ t*-*"* of the wreck „r «e, therefore, when ^J^ST^h^wVVT'^''''' disc^ov^'fol William Island, I had the »rfv»«V-.!^ * ,^^ ^^^ W®** shore of Kin^ beenfound. ""^ ***" advantage of knowing what had already fu^ro^V^rZ'rZZ '':Tji''' '^ «^ -"- became less island they ceased alSher tS t.™"""*'"* *^« ^est point of the utterly destitute of vefetatL v '^°" '' «**'"«™«Iy 'owfand aW and impenetrable packed ice '^'^ona^ralt is covered with heavy when in lat. 69° fl' N o«^ i „ boat, discovered by Ueuteninf h1*' '" ,^'' ^- ''^ ^'''ne to a larire notice Informed me^ It apw.« fh^^M V'^ '^'y" P'-eviously. m S! the ascent of the Fish S but wJ'^h ''°.** ^"^ ^'^'^ ^"teide" for re umjoumej to the shiprthe LT ''^'"'**°n«d apparently utSn a being pointed in that dSon Shf*^ "^*'" ^'^"h she wasLSJed feet wide, was most cS y Ji J^J ™«'"»';«d 38 feet in hngZhln the sledge was of solid o«k„d^;,? "f**' *« "«ht as posslb e but A large quantity of cfoThl^ ^^* •" heavy as the boat, •keletonl One of the^^^n «.? 'r*" ^"'''° »»«'• *iso two human of clothing { the other wM^^h J "^^''f ^"'^ <>' the boat, under a^n« animal.. w%; f<»»»d '«%!«' 'jJ;^"yf»ohmo,^ disturbed.' p^^itbX' •liver spoons afid forks, and a f^w ^ZT^^7^^^'^' * ^''^ntity S - no JoumaU. pocket-books/or Jve^ ^nf«. ?" '^'^ '^*" »'«> found, but CAPT. M'CLIlfTOOK'S was loaded and cocked. There was ammunition in abundance, also 301b. or 401b. of chocolate, some tea and tobacco. Fufel.was not wait- ing; a drift tree lay within 100 yards of the boat. Many very inte- resting relics were brought away by Lieutenant .Hobson, and some few by myself. On the 6th of June I reached Point Victory without having found , ffltiy thing furtlier. The clothing, &c., was again examined for docu- ^ents, uote-bookH, &c., without success, a record placed in the cairn, and another buried ten feet true North of it. ' Nothing worthy of remark occurred upon my return journey to the ship, which we reached on the 10th of June, five days after Lieutenant Hobson. The shore of King William Island between its North and West extremes, Capes Felix and Crozier,has.not been visited by Esquimaux since the abandonment of the Erebus and Terror, as the cairns and articles lying strewed about, which are in their eyes of priceless value, remain untouched. If the wreck still remains visible it is probable she lies on some of the oflf-lying islets to the southward between Capes Crozier and Herschel. On the 28th of June Captain Young and his party returned, having completed their portion of the search, by which the insularity of Prince of Wales Land was determined, and the coast line intervening between the extreme points reached by Lieutenants Osborne and Browne discovered : also between Bellot Strait and Sir James Ross's furthest in 1849, at Four River Bay. Fearing that liis provisions miglit not last out the requisite period. Captain Young sent back four of his'melCand for forty days Journeyed on through fogs and gales with but one man and the dogs, building a snow hut each night ; but few men could stand so long a continuance of labour and privation, and its effect upon Captain Young was pain- ftilly evident. Lieutenant Hobson was unable to stand without assistance upon his return on board; lie was not in good health when he commenced his long journey, and the sudden severe exposure brought on a serious attack of «curvy ; yet he also most ably completed his work ; and sucli facts will more clearly evince the unflinching spirit with which the object of our voyage has been pursued in these detached duties than any praise of mine. We were now, at length, all on board again. As there were some slight cases of scurvy, all our treasured resources of Burton ale, lemon Juice, and A-esh animal food were put into requisition, so that in a comparatively short time all were restored to sound health. During our sojourn in Port Kennedy we were twice called upon to follow a shipmate to the grave. Mr. George Brands, engineer, died of apoplexy on the Cth of November, 1858 ; he had been out deer shoot- ing several hours that day, and appeared in excellent health. On the 14th of June, 1859, Thomas Blackwell, ship's steward, died of scurvjr ; this man had served in two of the forme^earchlng expeditions, -Tvf The summer proved « warm one. We were able to start upon oar l^o mewar d voyage on the 9th of August, and although the low of the engine-driver in 1807, and of the engineer in 1808 left us with only two stokers, yet, with their assistance, I was able to co;)^jx>l theeDgines and steam the sliip up to Fury Point, T 274 PBOGEESS OF AECTIC DISCOYEar. v» All ^ "^^igrfew wants. ls]?f%:jteSt^1 A^tX^^^ -- ^^-'^-^ed. and p„ t.e deSTff:r,;^^;?^,tatrd^lr ^^^^^^^^^ P^P--nd the .vl- njent discovered, it apS tSat thP .h '"5'°''' °^ ''^^'h*"^ and equfp Terror haci been'delibTatVarraf^ed a^^^^^ ^rebJand the third winter to render tL traven.n/^ •^'^ ^'^"'^ ^^'^''t^d during It is -miicli to be apprehended tSIn^ equipments complete. ^ strength of all on boa^ f^ mor, nit''"'!''*** ^''^^^^ ''educed the aware pf. "*' **^ '"<''^<^ P^^ ^^^Ps than they themselves were ab^^^rth^^l^s-^s^f'^^V'^ ^'''- -^- to Montreal Island 220 miles * °^'^*P*''°*' ^^^es; and from the ships the libcralit,- of the Roynl Society h«v.l^ T" ""PPlie^ "irou?I, taton ^ ttoyai aociety.have b mche? of natural hi«fn.^ ** ^^^^ colWcf^ijs in all the various Dranche? of natural history. ^ -"« vunous I hati^Xlarn^ae'Ai^^^^^^^^^^^ - "^" ''' ^''^^^^^ ^isr/oSirTirr^^^^^^^^^ -"S;or ^^-^^ 80 nobly sustained and aTmdeten^r'.: ""^''^ ^"^^ ^'^^^^'^^ has could do. seems to have supportedl^^t,''?, *" f''' «» that men With less of this enthusiastic sS an^J^rT^'^Jr'^ '^''««"'ty- command, our small number-twrntv ?hr« ^^\.'''**'^*'"«« *» e^ery sufficed for the sucoessf.lpe^orSj;Vty:at'rw^^^^^ ""'' ''^'' -Sepfcmixjr 21s«, 188&. tions of the most viVlS^i,^ -^l &mveA. The crea- tive in which Captain M'PjL.. I u ^™P^^ "»^^a- hiatory of his searX^f J^ Clintock has reeorded the Tfirijimt Jlut '?:T -l!" ^' *''°" p**"" '"y inifln tho r ^F'*^^5W*a^ ^^^'^^ ti-'^'^f%srPT^v BEIEF STOET OF THEIE FATE. 275 atb» the accomplishment of a mission, prompted by a noble conjugal devotion which has won for the heroic lady who now mourns in assured widowhood a place in the warm affections of every heart, the explorers came at last upon a sorrowful evidence that the patli which they had chosen was Hkely to lead to the elucidation of the mystery which has been so long for all Englishmen an object of mournful * speculation. It is now nearly fifteen years since Sir John Franklin and his companions started on that ill-starred expedition, the hitherto undiscovered doom of which has filled the public mind with such keen anxiety, and racked so many hearts with a despairing sorrow through which some gleams of hope still struggled to the last. The discovery by Captain Ommanney, m 1850, of traces of an encamp- ' ment at Cape Riley, with graveg bearing the names of some of the party, and dated 1846, gave rise to the cpiu.-^ viction that the ships had passed up Wellingtoii Channel^ P and the record found by Cairtain M'Clintock's party on Point Victory shows that they did pursue this course, and then, passing down the western side of Comwallis Island, sailed through Ommanney Inlet to the epot^here they were ultimately hemmed in by the ice. Thus far the zealous perseverance of our navigators has triumphed over apnarently insurmountable obstacles, and enabled us to follow the track of the Erebus and Terror up to the mo- ment of their destruction ; and, mournful as is the intel- ligence which they have now brought to us, afibrding certain confirmation of our fears, it has yet one consoling element, which goes far to alleviate our regrets. Few can have cherished the hope that the gallant Franklin would ever be seen among us again ; and all will be gratified to learn that his last moments were clouded by no extraor- dinary perils or privations, but that the kindly hand of death rele|eed him from sufiering before the commence- ment of the terrible tinals which awaited his companions, but which their veteran commander was less fitted than " they were to endure. The brave old man has found a not inappropriate grave in the region which is indiesolubly connected with his early fame ; for no Arctic navigator has added more important contributions to our store of knowledge with regard to the sterile shores and frozen mleta of the north, or p r os ecute d his researches un der dif. iffiii TSccdtreilmrorrcairalatM^W^S^ heart, than he who now sleeps among the icebergs in an unknown, but not an unhonoured grave. T 2 3c% ^"'-V«f| 276 - f PBOGBESS OF ABOTIO DISCOVBBT. he died, we know the very day of £» Zf ^ 7^®''^ •+»,o <■«•«!» ^r^- "" . • ■'^°"' mdeed, it would seem flmf tne tnals of his previous exDloraHnno o«^ +u ''*^*'™. " »t WnLm''-f?i* r*'*^'^' ^i' *^^ north.west coast of Kinir yViJham Island, a record of the proceedinffs of fh« Vi"^^ to have worked onT^ell Is it could LI'*'"'' '"'^"'^ *^^^ *•:=* iH,'^ > irNIVEESAL"T?StetTHY MAlnPESTED. 277 Te^or were abandoned by their crews, fifteen miles JV.N.W. of Point Victory. The " survivors,*' which is a termthatmdicates other losses than that of the great seaman who led them, to the number of 106, two days after the abandomnent of the vessels, reached the island, erected a cairn, concealed the record, and were then about to pro- ceed for the Great Fish Biver, under the command of Captain Crozier. Since that dav they have all shared the fate of their chief, droppmg down one after, anothw till the lastlii^. perished. '"■-■ For ten years past, all that national solicitude aided and inspired by the most sacred domestic affection— all that the tender human feeling of all nations, and the chival- rous rivah-v of the Old World and the New, could furnish of zeal, skill, courage, eager daring, and stern endurance, to the one great object of seeking out the lost, has been prodigally spent ; and as if indeed it were the will of Heaven that in all calamitjr there should be a blessing, we have seen not only our kinsmen beyond the Atlantic, but France and Russia, lending no sterile sympathy to our great bereavement. Whenever and wterever the story of Franklin and his comrades is told, the names of Bellot, of Kane, of Grinnell, will be remembered with the names of Eae and Richardson, of Ross, of Maclure, aad M'Clintock. Dr. Rae heard from the Esquimaux that the English commander had died of hunger, and thirty of his men with him. It is too certain that all the survivors from the abandoned ships perished of sheer starvation, for there is nothing to show that they suffered any violence, ol: that the term of their sufferings was cut short by any human hand. What those sufferings must have been, and with what unquailing steadfastness en- dured, no man from those icy regions shidl ever tell, for all lav wrapt in everlasting sleep, pecure from harm, long' months and years before the arm of their country couM reach them, though again and again it was stretched almost within their grasp. But it was not to be. Nor was their work accomplished when their martyrdom was sealed. Tlie example of their lives and deaths is precious to £ngland,aiid to all humanity. We have said that their work was accomplished. It 18 to Franklin and his comrades that we owe the dis- lo^ryJbyMaclOTej^rtheNofthrvVesf Passage; ah^ IS on Franklin's track that other and happier explorers have marched to the conquest of unpityinooience. The ^9ji^f^'^-i^p*^\>t-'^' >. ■V'^'^ h^^^s^f^- >J^^' 278 PE0GEES8 OP AKCTIO DISCOTEnr. JZ^V^-^^^ ^^^"^^ little yacht Foa: fa" not aWonir the leaat glonous emsodea of a sad and splendid stoT Vho Tvrl^^V *^^V* ™ *^« ^i^«' "«^ t«« «"rely tS widow from 7^ci7.^% ^^^^^ ,*\^™^ ?^^« ^1^^ fi^^ «»e««^g^ vSn to ttf ""* ^? ^, ^f ; *^^ ^^^^""S of entire dl Ins ft?n JJ h 'T^ '!?^'^ ^*^y Franklin has^sd nobly sustained, and a firm determination to do aU that men T'f ^""'a^ P?P,*^^ M'Clintock, with the frank ^Z Em Jnrt^^'^^^^'-'''"^ V^^^^^' declares, suppor^d him and his compamons through every difficulty but 5 has enabled them, in detached pirties. by sledge oirneys c^astW'lXi: ^Sr^^^ "eight Lndrfd^m^esTf coast line, and thus, writes Captain M'Clintock " to unitA mrStfwpVV^^ former sVching expedition^tS'th: S««»^ a°<3 West of our position with those of James Eoss Dease, and Ea« to the South." Neither fog, nor We' TeW' nf fT.S ^'/^hVP\"* ^"d *1^« " el^eerful obe- aience of thesie last of the Arctic discoverers. , ■.■^4-. ■ ''ftiThfi,?^!/^^ V^J'^""**'''^ we.mustaddthe foUowfng -^ithful copies of the contents of the two papers above? mentioned, and the list of articles brought home \ H.M.S. Erebus and Terror May, 1847. -f Wintered in the ice in (.: Lat. 70° 6', Long, 98° 23' W. Sir John Franklin commanding the expedition. Mo^daJ:;4TMaL^847!"° ''^"" '"^ ^" "'^^'^^^ *^« «^P« <>" •^ Graham Gore, Zt., and • C. F. de V^ux, iMofe. oi?^/i"^.', ^^1^' H.M. ships rmt«. and JFrefttw were deserted on the I^St %te Ttl'irJ"!^^- °' *•*•«' *^*^'"« ^^^"^ besetl nee 12?h »ept. 1846, The officers and crews consisting of 106 souls under th« long. 98 41 W. This paper was found by Lieut. Irvlngf under the ffhisjj evidftntly d flte d in mlBtak e, and shtmld be ie45-4g ^ Xle was the luninr lipnfanan^ r^r tu^ m . ., *'•• ^5Ig7and tlirr "'"*°* '' '"l' "^ "^^" «»« -P«^l«o» BEXIOS BBOrGBT HOIO. ' 279 cairn 8upp»^dto have been built byf Sir James Ross in 1831,fbnrmiles to the northward, where it had bW deposited bj the late Commander Gore in June 1847. Sir James Ross's pillar has not however been found, and the paper has been transferred to this position, which Is that in which Sir James Ross's pillar lyas erected. Sir John Franklin died on the 11th June, 1847, and tjie tdUl loss by deaths in the expe- dition has been to this date 9 officers anch44men. / F. R. M. Crozler, Captain and Senior Offi^, and James Fita^james, Caj[)tain HJtf. ehip ErebtUi start to-morrojr^ 26th. jSot Back's Fish River. „ , > ^z \ >• Melics brought frfim the Boat found in Lai. 69° 8' 43" N., Long. 99° 24' 42" TT-, upon the West Coast qf King William's Island. 3fay 30, 1859. Two double-banrelled guns— one barrel in each is loaded. Found standing up against the side in the ^fteir part of the boat. *. ^ n In one parcel.— A small ^aver-Book ; cover of a small book of "Family Prayers ;^''''^^Christian Melodies," an in- scription withinVthe cover to " G. G." (Graham Gore P) ; "Vicar of-Wakdield ;" a small Bible, interlined in many places, and with numerous references written in" the mar- gin ; a New Testament in the French language. Tied together.— Two table-knives with white handles r-oneis marked "W- 1^-;" » gimlet, an awl, two iron etancheons, nine infihes Jong, for supporting a weather cloth which was round the boat. Tied together.— 26 pieces of silver plate— irspoons, 11 forks, and 4 teaspoons^ 3 pieces of thin elm board (tingles) for repairing the boat, and measuring 11 by 6 inches, and 3-10th8 inch thick. ^ j, j»^ All wrt^ppedvup in a piece ofi'canvas.— Bristles for SBoe- makers' use, bullets, short clay pipe, roirpf waxed twine,-*'' a wooden buttola, small piece of a port-fire, two charges of shot tied up in the finger of a kid glove, tied up in ^ fragment of k seaman's blue sterge frock. Coders of a small Testament and Prayer-Book, part of a-graSs cigar-case, fragment of a silk handkerchief, thread-case, piece of scented soap, three shot charges in 1^-glove fingers, a beltW bullet (tied together in a piece oMilk pocket-hand- * kerchief), 2 pairs of goggles, made of stout leather, and wire gauze, instead of glass ; a sailmaker's palm, 2 small Jbraas pocket cdm pa sses, a snoodin g lin e rol led up on a p iece "ofTeatheT,"a MeateiH^ alSayonet^sca&t altered into a sheath for a knife, tin water-bottle for thib pocket„2 shot-pouchee (fu2l of shot). ,, In canvas.— Three spring hooks of sword belts, a gold r "M^ ■-| 280 ^^^^9^^^ OF imCTIC DI8C0VEBT. JMt iNttd, i pioip of thin gold twitt or cord a nulr nf Je^^^/^oggles. Witt crape iitead of glaa^^a si^K wJ«t*^^f^j*^^?'^^'' ^° canvaB.-Two small Backets of blank mrtfidge in green paper, part of a chSivSninJ ^ ive watches m a paper packet. W^ A pair of blue glass-spectaclegr-or eoireles wiih «f«ai frame, and wire gauze encircling the glasses Tn I fin (EfefuT'bTacr' 'r'""^. lealcdourand'mai T.?S^: " 20 or 22 lbs ' "" "^' '''" ^* "^^* ^^^« ««^t^ined - FreemaaCr ^^^"' ^^"^^' * ^^^^ ««^ -^^ symbol of i^roiJS^^ -PP- ^ook and thimble, «n^*- *^ John Franklin followed literacy his instrn«. ByL MajSeEef"'^^ ^'P^^^^^ anywwf along wK it^*^^ if*^/" ^y*°» ^^in'8 Island! >ii,&^ 153^^^ohniBig^dson states that Frankfi^ jolaA sourse in the first in- I-**:- 1 l(^ BEFLECMOKB AND INTB! 41' • OEB. 281 ^l stance for the neigKbourhood'df Gape Walker and to push to the westward in. that parallef, or if that could not be accomplicibed to make his way southward, to the channel discovered on lAie north coast of the continent, and so on to Behring's Straits. The remarks I made at page 206 seem lo be born^ put by the accounts received, namely, that should their provisions ^ecqfpe inadequate^ to another winter's oon- sumptionyjlgv^ould not remain longer by their shipa, but %®fl%^^yiyii|i^'ii^ several the officers and crews, with boa^^in^ipw^ as to be light enough to drag over the ',c6, BMTgiaiould endeavour to make their way southward thei%l$ind- ^ either Captain Crozier nor Captain Fitajames had any- devious know^ledge of the localities in which, upon aban- cming their ship, they were thrown. Even in tne face of the knowledge of the disastrous former Itod journey of Franklin, the party of survivors, on leaving their ship, seem to have been making their way in the direction of the Great Fish Eiver, which had been explored and described bj Capt. Back and Dr. King, thus falsifying the opinion ad«anced (p. 165) by Sir James Ross, that he "could not conceive any position in which they could be pl&oed from whiAi they would make for the Great Fish River." Jt is much to be regretted that the repeated offers of Dr. King to conduct a party up this river in search had not been accepted when ihade. It would have determined earlier this long sought question of their fate, and might have resulted in saving a few lives, seeing that mapy of the party appear to have lingered on untu the spring of 1850.' Much expenditure in the later expeditions would also have been saved, and their despatch rendered unne- cessary had earlier intelligence been received of the fate of Franklin's party. Captain SirGeorgeBaok, in his letter (p. 171), overfooked altopt^r the contingency, which occurred, \^ the death of ir John Franklin, and the charge of-the party falling into other hands. i-TL "We now know all that ever will be known of Sir John Franklin's ^fti^e,%ud it would be difficult to imagine a more touching ilc^y than that given to the world by Captain M'Clintock, commander of the final searching, expedition. It is always better to know the worst, and even thougli "WF'had long ceased to ve mfbrmation^nB to the fate of those heroic men' who had ventured their lives in the cause of science, there is, at least, a ^tt ey consolatioii in knowing that all hai been done thaflBuld t - //V % .2a2 ^BOGBES^ or J^Tio J)M0OTEfiT. % y 5)1 '^ ^^^--ry.^ vt^'-t^ J * -^"S>^^^ "^^Y^ools to confirm the' ever found Snited in a ^^jf ^r, afn^^ w^°" ^^^^^ «« seek what maiij before £ifhad3iT' He went out to west Passage. Success wonU^?* "^ vam-the North- political arrfngeSroftTeiatirhfP '^^^' ^ *l^e not touch ^ebalani of po^rT^^^ ^^^ovdd square inch of territory to ?hrv;,/* '"^'^^ ««* add one Victoria; but it would ml^ T* Possessions of Queen «o the grand lembtg^'^f SnU^f \^" t^''^ lorld owes to the darinfentUri«f ofVrfT^' ^^'«^ JE^^e . foreigner who said of the chCe nf l?^, 'f^""-^"- ^^« „ marvelled at the spirit S.-7;?.'>igIit ab^ many valuable lives for s^ baten J i'^' ^ ^^^^^^ «o IS that the discovery has co«f,^ J ^ "'rJ^f* ' »»d true' it . . life of Sir John Fraffi and the lIZ A H^ «^«* '^^ t^^e him in that perilous eipeS^ion TfT/''" "^^^ '^^^^ ^t»» :^ can never afibrd to ™te ^J* it?' "^^feover, that Englishman, and yet th™ta tl r^^ ^^ ^ ^^'^^^^ ^^ave ■ a^k us why we peLit such ?, ' T^^^ '''' ^t ^^« ai^wer is to B^ef found ilcZTd^VTA-''''' *.°^ *^*<^ cdlonies we have olanfflrl i« ' ^^ "'^'^dia, and in the Weloveente^'^^ZlowrsX^r^^^^ «'^^ . a barren one; 4eneveraTe]d is oZf*^5'^''^* ^ enterprise an Emrliahmpn ^o i P®" ^°' dantig and If it L a fault i?? a S onT^^ •^^u^^^'* ^^« serW whp^the gain'h/far teette l?s * ^^'^' '"'^ ^ *^« .wehav;^o^st%llL"ytt^^^^^^^^^ ^« think that and- snow, in the dark inho-Sl.* ^f T*^' *"»>d frost men have given up therpS,tjivr«^' ^'"'.V' ^"»'^«^- to science. And vet a S««m^? i f-^* ^^^^^'^ sacrifio for all England deStftoTnM ^"1" ^'^^^' "P o^*" sorrow, ^ose who'^Ce gX t^^S« 1'^ *^« ^^^^o'J of „ energy and enteSe Vk Jt jl'"'.^ '^'^ exam/ of that we welcome WkCant^n^'nff""^^^^^^^ "^ ^^^^ accomplished-^that Z tn,f ». • 1?'*'* ^"^^ '" V»« matter ig >c ■ *,5" V rnTDiirG OE the eesoltttb. 2S8 \ The history of the recovery of the Resolute, and the graceful return of that ship to the British nation by the United States' Government, is a feature of Arctic history deserving of permanent record in thes^jpages. The JRegolnte was one of the vessels abandoned by Sir Edward Belcher, being frozen up in 77° latitude, off Syam Martin's Island, in May, 1854. She was picked up sixteen months afterwards, in lat. 66° 30', long. 64 , by an American whaler in Davis' Strait, having drifted about 1200 miles through Barrow's Strait and BaflEin's Bay. The following is the captain's account of the finding of the ship, and the difficulties he experienced in bringing her into port :— On the 10th of Sep'tember, 185^, latitude 67° K., and while in this field of ice. Captain Buddington discovered a. ship in the distance, bearmg north-east, about twenty \ i^iles from Cape Mercy. He ascended the rigging of his craft, and, l(5oKtng at her through the glass, pronounced her, from her appearance, tobe im abandoned vessel. For five days we were insight of one another. On the sixth , day after making the discovery, and when the ship was about seven miles off. Captain B. ordered the two mates and two of the crew to proceed to the abandoned vessel across the packed ice, and, after inspecting her, to return to the bark as soqih as practicable. Soon after the (departure of:;the party a south-easter sprung up, and in consequence tht^eof no communication was had with those on board the ship for two days. As soon as the wind subsided, and it was safe for the party to retrace their steps, they left the ship ; and, after a tedi^s and hard march, arrived on board of the baprk in safety. They immediately represented thB facts to Cap- tain JBuddingtdn, saying that the abandoned vessel wa^ her Britannic Majestv's ship Resolute. The captain, knowing the history of Sir Edward Belcher's expedition to the Polar seas, at once divined the reasons of the vessel being left in that condition ; and, knowing that the safe conveyance of that vessel to some port wcjjiild be better than catchinjf whales, and knowing withal that it would be quite a piece of glory to hand back to the Britishers a vessel loijfjf since abuidoned by them as being lost to the Queens service for ever, determine^ at all hazards to iary the boRl and arduous task. Acegijaingly, he sonthii mate back with six men, giving them instructions to free mtwie pacit witn six men, giving tnem instructions to tree ^rire Hhip of the water with which she was burthened, antf" signalizo their success to him. If they did not succeed in freeing the vessel, they were to hoist a signal, whereupon the captain himself would proceed to their aid. The next morning the signal was hoisted for his pretence ] -r* •w^ 2S4 PBOGBEBS OF AEOTIO DIBOOTEBT. He commenced immediately to LSnhf^F^^^^ i • placed in ^ ^ dangerous position she was then with bookn MntKl„„ extreme. The cubui was strewed «d there wiftluZ o'Tir'Thr""' »'«"Pt™'l here .8s^oirdXdwithi^«.,h™''l?r'''°''' "■"'"'»»' became vessel uiat was not more or less dpatrftvorf """""""a in the hoM hnf ilV ^^fl^'' * "'"e coal was discorered -— -„v..„ „ cuuugu periiapii n i fth (thft nnmb a r n r w ri nalu. seventj. "yM i s j a ^uw nnmoero r iKiually carried hv ft»o 7?^.;rr 7-r for nmo mnnfha Tk« u ^ «^«*»wu oy ine JXesolute) that were aTlllin?!f«ft T"^ '''''^^^^ only articles had gowto decav Vvl / P[^«?rvatK)n. Everything gone to decay. Even Che ship's sails found betweeS mmmmmm ■-'■^'^f^ePT i.."::;: r^ v%*-"^ THE BESOLTJTE Ti.KBI !'• ?P^^^ Buddinffton fonnW ;^ ofW, rendering her very1i.htTr,i^ ff^ ^^ possession the trough of thi sea. Gale after i?P* *^ ^^" ^^^^^^J in yetthe bra,^ felJow laboured davfn^ ^"^.^pmenced! last successful in the praFseworZ ^ ^'^'^*' ^^^ ™ at the abandoned vessel f rSfn ^ ^^°^ ™ade to rescue umberland InleFa tocfp'eX *h?°"i^ ^^ ^' ^ ^as gained, and onThe W^f^^f ^- . J\" "P^^ «^^ voyage commenced. AftS\ sn^ni- • ^^"^ ^J"^ ^^omeward and head winds, the New Tnn^fl''?'' ^^ strong ffales the 24th of December; and th/v^^^^^^ ^«« ^«^e on comnhshed with credit ?o autST'^ '"^^^^^''^^^ ^- were Wen a little to^h^no^^^^^^^ *?^^<^' asl? foundland, the HesoluU came ?n inf *^^ ^\^^^ «^ ^^w- about 150 feet iaheiehto^tj^^ f ""**? ^*^ an iceberg a detached pie^ of Ice of mnnw^ ""^ ^^'^^ *t«^ ™ ' the cantain expected evrAr^.n?' ""t^^*' *°<^ ^^^ieh upon the vessel and sintTl,? ^ ""* ^^"^^^ tumble down So great was the da?ger^ i^nh^^^.^^^^^^^ readmess to push off hIZUa^ ^ ?°**« were all in precipitated .upsS^ them^'"^'^^^^^^^^ glacier b" careful working and hard labour thl^^'* * ^^^^ ^^al of and the star of success nT.it ' , ^*°?er was cleared the ha^dy and int^ C^^^ «^-e brilliantly S^ goiter if ;t tzTb^xr r^-/^-^^ tt^^rreh^a^»?E^^^^^ equipment, and pn)perfyr board tHo ^J"" «^"«»ent. waa moved into one of thonntr^ J V^\^ ^^"^e, the ship and there fully reWed .nS^"^^^.' ^^ *^« United States to England asVn S*°^/f :5P«.<^. «nd then despaS y r .7 *^« ^^ited States to G^LrS^^''^^^^ friendship from '^<^-^ J„7^^the i?«W«^TomLfneXr^b *^^ ''? '^ ^^ and on the 12th of T)AnI«.u ^ ^^^ homeward vova^e arrived under AmL^eT'&rt'^^^^^ 'P^*^^^' «^'' her anchors, the English ™'r;,n "T *" «^« ^^^ go American ensign. Eve^ c^k!^!. ^ ^^^^^'^^ ^^ t^c nuity could de^e to wX^ev.,lfK?" **^1^ ^^^'^^ ^"^^e- TrotFoadvent^r^ ^^"^^ was ^mnJoned bTth^ ^^^r^^^^SB^P EESOLFTE PEESENTED TO BEITISH GOVEBNMENT. 287 she sailedin 1852 from the British shores upon her last Polar adventure. Captain H. J. Hartatein, who brought her home, was the officer who went out to Baffin's Bay m charge of the American relief expedition, for Dr. Kane and his party, consisting of two vessels, the Arctic and Helease. These vessels left New York on the 4th June, 1855, and pene- trated as far as 78° W north latitude, to Smith's Sound, without seeing any of the party. But on returning south- ward to Lievely, or Good Haven, on the 13th Se^mber,. they were boarded by Br. Kane in a boat, that officer ha;vmg abandoned his ship, the Advance, in 82° 30' and made his way southward over 1300 miles of ice, bringino- back all but three of his party ; and those died from fros^ bites. Captain Hartstein, taking the adventurers on board, set sail on the 13th S^tember, and reached New York on the 11th October. On the 20th December, Captain Hartstein and his officers were entertained at the Admiralty House by the Cora- mander-in-Chief, Sir George Seymour,"K.C.B. ; the Ame- rican Coilsid and ,Vice-Consul for the port and district, and a rallant circle of naval, officers were among the guests. The Captain paid a visit to the Premier, at Broadlands, and returned charmed with the cordiality of his host. On tho 23rd he received «a deputation from the Liverpool Shipowners' Association, and in reply to their address made a neat speech — " To say that I feel honoured by this unmistakeable mark of your co;i8ideration would but feebly express my sense of the compliment which you have thus paid through me to the QoTenunent whose repre- sentative I now have the honour to be. Meeting you as delegates from the shipowners of the greatest commercial city of the United Kingdom, I rejoice at the kindly feeling thus manifested fOr a nation with whoSe' interests you are so intimately connected. In my present mission lo your Government, you can read the spirit of Americuns towards the people of this country, and can easily believe that your happy allusion to the mutual bonds of origin and a community «)f feeling between us will meet with a cordial response. . The advancement of science jyid the arts, to which both nations have, in a spirit of generous rivalrx, so greatly contributed, have changed our ancient geographical position. Miles and seconds have become almost synonymous word«, and now tho iron messengers of our commerce fly like steam shuttles, weaving between us a. fabric of mutual Interest. May that spirit of friendly emulation, enterprise, and enlightened purpose, which has given to our ■hipping interests the distinguished place thty oooupy throughout the J un JYCT i Ca eyar conttnufl^' ' = /.?i !>■ > The Mayor and Corporation of Portsmouth gave them a grand banquet at the Portland Hotel, Southsea. Mr^j fghirvU^Aj^ Ct^H^#^ t/jU^I^ Xfh if i^- '^XP"t 288 PEOGEKSS OP AECTIC DISCOVEET. 9>iC- / H. Grinnell, of New York, was an honoured guest ; and a large and distinguiehed company were also assembled. Mr. Croskey, the American Consul at Southampton, made an exeellent^peech, one- or two passages of which are worth placing on record : .. " Even in this act [the gift of the Eesolute] England must find the imprint of a kindred race ; and when called uppn to point to that which she considers her greatest honour, she can, like the mother of the Graochi of old, point with affectionate pride to her now full-grown v^ offspring — America — and say, ' In the vigorous growth of my child, and in the high position she has attained in the family of nations, do I find my chief glory.' Yes, England should glory in America's pros- perity. America rejoices when she hears of the increase of British ^ prosperity and the extension of British empire in a legitimate di^c- ',tion, for she knows that such'^' extension is accompanied by those emblems of civilization, the Bible, the newspaper, and the plough she knows that wherever the banner of St. George waves there will be found freedom of opinion, freedom of speech, personal liberty, and that universal benefactor of mankind — commerce; and therefore she re^ joices. Why should not England also r^oice if new territory be placed under the benign in^uence of our institutions, which ensure like bene- fits to the worfd at large, and give self-government to and develop the natural resources of the countries that may join our Union ? The , world is large enough for both nations to ftilfll their respective mani- fest destinies without coming into conflict with each other. The East seems peculiarly the field of action, wherein the civilizing duties of England must continue to be employed. The West would appear to be, both geographically and otherwise, the sphere in which America rather than England should exercise the influence which the Anglo- Saxon race have never failed to exercise amongst semi-barbarous people, or over undeveloped countries. At all events, while the feelings of the two countries are now warmed towards each other by this happy event, it becomes the duty of both not only to foster the present kindly feelings, but to adopt such course as will guard against any- thing that may tend to disturb them. Let ns hear no more talk of war between England and America. If the words should be uttered or printed, let us reftise to hear them or to see them. Let each be chary of the other's honour and feelings as our own." The Queen and Prince Albert visited the ship, and, on "being presented to the Queen, Captain Hartstein addressed her OS follows : — •' Allow me to welcome your Maiesty on board the Resolute, and, in obedience to the will or my countrymen and of the President of the United States, to restore her to you, not only as an evidence of a friendly fi^eling to your sovereignty, but as a token of love, admi- ration, and respect to your Majesty personally." * The Queen' seemed touched by the inanly simplicity of t his frank and sailorlike address, and rephed. with a gra. ijraus smile, ^^ I Thank you^^^rr"^ The royal •party then went over the^ ship and examined her with manifest interest. In the coursp of explaining the chart to Prince Albert, BSOEPnOlf AHD ATTElTTIOlfSI TO HEE OmCBES. 28^' the latter remarked that Lady Franklin waa very desirous of another expedition going out, to which Captain Hart->^ stein replied, " that it did not surprise him, for he thought it very possible that Franklin or some of his companions might still be alive amon^ the Esquimaux." Captain Hartstein was mvited by the Queen to dine and to spend the night at Osborne ; and all the officers were permitted to visit the palace and grounds, a privilege of which they availed themselves. Among the stores found' in the Resolute were several puncheons of fine old rum,;- which had been put on board in prime condition on hep' leaving Woolwich for the Ar6tio regions. One of thes» puncheons was sent by Captain Hartstein to Prince Albert- as a relic. The Resolute was visited during her stay at Portsmouth.^ by Lady Franklin and her niece, and by Captain M'Clin- tock. Captain Sadler, Captain Eichards, Lieutenant Pim,- and other Arctic explorers. On Christmas-day the whole of the crew who brought her over were regaled with an: excellent dinner at the George Ho^l, at the expense of the British Government. / ' Having fulfilled the kindly niission 6n which they had been sent, Captain Hartstein^Nhis officers and crew, left on their return for the United Stafea, in the American steamer Washington, from Southampton, highly delighted with their reception. r^\ To use the words of a naval offi^ has paid much attention to the^j last, — The question of the North- wesi ^,, ^_ cupied the attention of this country for many years, has at length been set at rest, and- its discoverer. Sir Eobert M'Clure, has received his just reward. But few victories- of any kind are gained without their price ; so this.conten- tion with thick-nbbed ice in Arctic seas has cost us dearly in the loss of Franklin and the gallant band of seamen by whom he was accompanied. A strange fatality has fol- lowed them. With all our efforts we have been unable io succour them in their distress. The different routes which they might have adopted to effect their object— the over- changing condition of the ice through which they had to penetrate, now an*esting their progress, and now encou- ^^^fi"^. !^ j r* !* ?™^fr^ lane-~the risks, the d elays, the aeomeiittrw which tul nariKatiouis ever liable,— -an res ^Captain Becher) who ^ligation from first ta • Passage, which has oc- haye contributed to bewilder us in attempting to form a conclusion as to where Franklin would most probably be found, at to where or in what direction ass' stance should be sent, and he left us nothing to guide us. u 280 PBOOBESS or ARCTIC DISCOVEBT. 1^ I i; t-1 The several relief eipeditions sent out to find him hav« all lamentably faiW m their object, and the tiding* of the fate of the lost ones is meagre in the extreme. Bich enough the voyajfes and journeys have been in their contnbutions to geography, but sadly deficient in those results for which they were destined-rathe saving of Frank- Jin and his companions. > Although these efforts have unhappily not been crowned with the success thev deserved, they have nevertheless led to the solution of the great geographical problem which so long engaged the attention of the world, and have thus secured to our country an honourable distinction in the accomphshnaent of an enterprise which through successive reiffus and for nearly three centuries had heretofore baf- lied every attempt. In December, 1866, a memorial was presented to the Lords of theVidmiralty, by Dr. King and Lieutenant ±'im, asking for a final expedition, which sets out as fol- lows : — ! ♦vl' ,^'*'J'<>R»s,— That season of t;Jie year is rapidly approachinir when aZnZ!TT^'^^ ^""i^" ""-«**»"« i^oosenSd. Ld the pS af sla S open to a further search for the remains of the Franklin expedition SfrThl'^''*'""' '•"7 ^ already made, but in ell th JJe vaSt eS there has been a want of comprehensiveness, which it has since been proved could only result in utter failure. "But traces have been found— death traces, it is to be deplored- o. the gallant Sir J. Franklin and his noble ba^d : traces that poS? to the whereabouts of the missing ships which sailed with so murgloJy t.TL"^ ?' scientific survey propounded by your lordships Sn^ warHa Ift n ^^7 ^^^\fontid, your lordships have taken no steps t^ SK }i *"^ compi-ehensive search, and until your lordships sh-Ul our l?i;l T 'l^'V. *^.' ""^'•'"o^t. we venture respectfully to ta to ZJ^nr^ !** *"***" '" '*""?««> °° °«'' °»«on«i» honour. , We. therefore, implore your lordships to take into your Consideration a ^mprehenslve plan, which we now lay before you, Td which we St?nrh''"\^**^°,"''^'*' elemen.tsofWcei such asTave no! been before brought under your loi^ships' notice. We nrooose to StiJi'tlnTdn "'V'^r^iy ««» «"d b7land-by set through bS^w-: rioT ina 1 ™ ^''*!^""^ ' ^y ^»°^' *<"-o» tJ»« continent of Ame- rica and down Great Fish River-meeting at the magnetic Dole^ ^Z^n ^irf?''^'''' ** '" P'^P^*** *° «»« » »««»» sc'ew Stealer* «nd upon the latjd Journey bark canoes." "i*--*". Lieutenant Pim in a pamphlet gives an epitome of the ©rht^to lead- ""^ ^'"''^ to which in tis opinion it t,i'^,!^7y Thiy'i !^?'i..?*"'^"?J"^'^'"°° ''" "*" heeira,^j,_ »»*a. ^ Hmtwt* particle oTrnmnce exXata io prove tlie ikaath^^ of even one man since the ships left Beechey Island 3 That «,• i'nTeS 1K1^'"« """"*" ^° •^^'•^ -r.1 area'by exjlofnt t And i Vh-f l''^'^^*^^"' «"« ««»«>" would .ufflce to dear tip all doubt. And 4. That, above all. there is gr«at hope of finding sifryivors. S.ucU FTTBTHBB 8EAB0H MOOTED. 2$1 brfng the e«M, it is aslced— 1. Wliether it is not a dishonour to permit uncertainty upon thU porelj national question, and to allow the honoured names of Franklin, Cioiier. and others to be branded ^vith cannlbaliam ? 2. Whether it is not an imperative duty to collect every record of the sufferings of this heroic band, to form a page in history for the instruction of England's fhture sons P 3. Whether it is not consistent with the character of Englishmen to finish what has been begun, and not to leave a very atnall space unexplored as a per- petual reproach, especially when that small space is known to contain the secret which the nation has so long tried in vain to solve? And lastly, whether the public will allow themselves to be stigmatized aa wanttog in « gratitude, fWth, and honour' towards those heroic men who willingly imperilled their lives for their country's glory, by leaving a doubt whether their fhte be almost worse than death— slavery amongst the Esquimaux ? The sentiments of our transatlantic brethren on this snhieot are weU known, and the restoration of the Jieaolute complete for Arctic service is a most significant hint." Besides thesie considerations, it was urged that the honour of the greatest of naval powers would be dimmed and tamis^d if, after sending out so many costly expedi- tions into fcdefinite fields of search, it neglected to make this further small eflFort in a locality which is definite and well ascertained; that the question of whether Franklin had not discovered the only available north-west passage IS involved in the procedure ; and that it is desirable to remove, if possible, the imputation which the story nar- rated to Dr. Eae casts upon the memoty. of those who are alleged to have perished on Montreal Island— namely, tliat the condition of the bodies and the obntents of the kettles showed that they had finally resorte;^ cannibalism. A memorial signed by thirty-six eminent scientific men was presented to Lord Pabnerston in the summer of 1856, uf ging him, on the comprehensive grounds which were stated in the document, to despatch another expedition " to satisfy the honour of our country, and to.clear up a mVstery which has excited the sympathy of the civilized world." Besides the scientific men of this country, fhe learned and venerable Baron Alexander Von Humboldt expressed his interest in and warm approval of a "last efFoi-t" being made to " clear uj) the mystery which has excited the sympathy of the civilized world," In a letter to Lieutenant Pim, dated December 9, 1856, he says— " Is iC possible that, after so many generous sacrifices made by two nations of the same race, having in their possession part of the pro- fi&Ay know fr to belong t» tbos»-»iotim8 ^ ship ^ week- ^iaftef^ h av ing- reduced to such a small space the country to be searched— is it pos- sible, I repeat, that they do not add a last effort, perilous as is every, thing great and hazardous, for the solution of this sorrowful problem? Geography, and even the physical knowledge of the globe, has been immensely advanced by what has been already done, but tiiere remains ■Wifi 7^. ■<• ^^^^^^p^^ 292 PBOGHESS OP AECTIC BISCOVTSBT. !-^ a moral end to gain. There is in this enterprise an interest of senti^ ment and of consanguinity with those we desire to savr"erivJd Sfm .I^H'f i"" ^°^''?^ i^^ Government to any further efforts. Lady Franklin determined to despatch at her own private cost the expedition under Captain M'£Jlintock, the successful result o^ which I have already recorded * The observations which I made in the Preface to the>> eighth edition of this work, published in 1857, may be ret produced here, since the precfiction has been fully verified ^ Verv little i&ore yvill probably have to be adSed to the scroll ot Arctic Discovery We may possibly hereafter obtain some more full details as to how long Franklin and fci Tu ''^"?^ ^'^ *^^'^ ^^P«' ^liereZey abandoned them ; and how the survivors prosecuted 4heir journey to the mainland ; and, one by one died of starvation. These particulars majr by chance be discovered through some stray journal, found by some bold adventurer undtrtaking llJ^T^i' F^'i ""^ ^■^'^ Vp« ^^^ ^«*^i°g "aore. The chart of the Arctic regions is nq longer a blank ; ^e have at least filled up the coast outlines of the American Sjftx. tment and its adjacent straits arid bays ; and thus Mh has been gained for Science, although\t a heavy oXy " rntn! "'^•. ^^^'' ^^""^^^ ««^ ^* le^<^ be breathed round Britannia s sceptre. Of the many heroes of Arctic history mentioned ia these pages, most have achieved for themselves a high reputation and rapid promotion has followed their perilous services. Some have received more distinguished honorarv and pecuniary rewards, and many have passed away from S^i'Frtl7^'''''^^^-*™T^°.« *^^ ^^"^' °»*y t>^ enumerated Sir Edward l»arry. Sir John Eoss, and Sir John iBticb- Amerwan N ^^^Per* ^d Lieutenant Kane of the nf fln'i P^^''^ Z^ Aberdeen granite has been erected in front of the Eoyal Naval Asylum at Greenwich, to the memory of the gallant Lieutenant J. Bellot. of the French Eoyd iNavy, on which the following inscription appears :— . " To the intrepid young Bellot, Who in the endeavour to rescue Franklin ilh»edtbfritetfr*ti*-ttregh)ry-offfitr Illustrious Navigator. From his British admirers. 1853." ^ ^ J-^ ^""^ff^NOl NOUBS AND EEWAEDS. ^ «--293 —^-K^ana his party have received the Government . onward of 10^/. offered for the discovery of the fate- of Jjranklm, and Captain ColUnson 5,000/. for mailing in. effect ( the JNorth-west passage. See ante, p. 186. / r .? 1 /'^ly ?";* °i*^^« ^o"^^' I ^a^e allude'd to the zeal ot the late Sir John Barrow in promoting Arctic discovery and his ener^, anxiety, and zeal have been more thwl •eoualled by his son. In appreciation of the esteem and affection m which Mr. Jolin Barrow is lit^ld, some torty ot the leadmg Arctic explorers presented him, in June, 1856, with a very handsome testimonial bearing the tollowmg mscription : — ;' To John Pahbow, Es*. F.R.S., P.R.G.S., etc. ^1 ^° f!J*«**»^ remembrance of his kindness and attention, and as an .acknowledgment of his valuable exertions in flirtherance of the search ^Ll^ ^ ^"?*"" 'vn.*"" ««™P«»»on«. an object which he pursued w^th hereditary ability, energy, and devotion, this token is About the samfe time an elegant and costly testimonial was aho presented to Captain Sir Eobert M'Clure by a number of officerS^Wthe Royal Nivy, in admiration of tis V?*f®5W^ and perseverance in penetrating t^ugh the Polar Ocean m search of Franklin, which led to the solu- •^tion of the important geographical problem of the discovery K)f the North-west Passafi^e, and has rendered his name jUustoious m the naval annals of the British empire. The -testimonial consists of a winged figur« of Fame standing on ti/ptoe on the part of the globe representing the Polar fleas, and m the act of blowing a trumpet. ^It is exquisitely carved m frosted silver, and stands on an ebony pedestal, which bejurs an appropriate inscription commemorating the services of the gallant Arctic navigator, and the motives in which the testimonial originated. Captain M'Clure, besides being knighted, has received ' the gold medals of the Royal Geographical Societies of iLneland and France. A similar scientific compliment was paid to Captain Inglefield«nd Dr. Kane by the Societies. Ihe voyage of the Enterprise and Invetttgator, eastward Irom Behrmg's Strait along the shores of Arctic America, |has opened out a new field for commercial speculation, and •thrown open to navigation the whole of the northern shores ^^f. Americ a , of ^ w hich. our- e nterprising T ra nsatUntie brethren— whose hundred sad of whale-slups have, during the last few years, fished in Behring's Strait— will doubS yess take advantage. ' ' -I ^•l,., mim 294 PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY. ».b;.»^v..^-j ri The following tabiiated statement is appended as a ready reference to t!.*ie names ^d dates of • the several expeditions ; more fuil. details of which hav« already jjeeuf* -given in the volniae :— -y JOHV Hoss, JkibeUa and Alexander . ....". . 1818 Bdchan and Fkanklin, Dorothea »nd n-jent' . ; 1818 Frakklin : First Land Expedition . . . > .1819-21 Parbt, ^ecto and GWper . . »^ • . • .-i • . 1819-20 Parry, JPury and JJecte 1821-23 Lton, Gfriper - 1^ '' Parry, Jffecfa and «*ry 1824-25 Franklin : Second Ltod Expedition 1826-27 BuCHAN, Blossom " • <' 1826-28 John Ross, Victory . . ". 1829-33 Back : Land Expedition .....;,.. 1888-35 BACK, Jterror , 188«-87 D£iiSf and SiMFSON : Boat Expedition . .... 1836-89 Rae: Boat Expedition . . ., 1846-47 Franklin, Erebus and Terror 1845-46 SUBSBQUBNT SEABCHING EXPEDITIONS TO DfiTKBMINE THEIR FATE. Jakes- Boss, JEnkrprise and Investigator , . . . . 1848-49 Richardson: Boat Expedition ....... 1848-40 MOORE, Plover 1848-62 PuiiLEN: Boat Expedition 1849-61 Hoonatu Boat Expedition 1840-50 SxoxDtXii North Star 1849-60 FonsvTB, Prfyioe AUmt I860' CoLLiNSON, i^neerprtM 1850-65 H'Cl:.URE, Itwestigator . 1860-54 Austin, J2e9o2uVw • • • .•'1867-6* ARCTIC DI8C0V£RlV 205 AECTIC DISCOVEKY ' ' • SINCE 1860. The desire for further information respecting the un- known seas and lands about the North Pole has still processed in the fifteen years since the issue of the ladt edition of this work. Foireign nations have, however, been running a neck-and-neck race towards .othe Pole; and England, in spite of all her old exploits of Arctic dis- covery, has lagged behind. British energy and daring could, however, no longer remain quiescent, and hence the appeal to Government in the last two years, which has resulted in the outfit of another oflEicial British expedition in 1 875, for which a vote of 100,0002. was readily granted by Parliament. . While first givmg a few preliminary details, it is but right that we should assign due justice to the foreigners who have made recent discoveries, by publishing a l)rief reamtie, for the use of the public at large, of the several expeditions undertaken, and tiieir resufts. Full details of many of the more important of these have been pub- lished in interesting, but rather expensive volumes. Mr. Clements R. Markham, C.B., F.R.S., Secretary of the Greographical Society, and Editor of the Qeogrd^hical Magazine, himself an Arctic explorer (having been m the 'Assistance 1850-51), author of ^veral works on the Polar Re^ons has given, in an " Arctic Navy List," 1875, besides a list of the ships employed, a conde^sod account of the services of "a century of Arctic aiid Antarctic officers" (British) from ^1773 to 1873. !ipeath has been busy in the past fifteen years, and many Arctic explorers have been added to the obituary list, given at p. 292 of this volume. Among others have to be recorded the names of Admirals H. T. Austin, Beechey, M'Clure ; Sir J. C. Ross and Osborn ; Sir John Richardson; Captain C. C. Forsyth; Staff- Commander MacDougall ; Commander Maguire ; Captain Owen Stanley ; and Dr. Berthold Seemann. A monument has been erected on the west side of =WaterW Place, Pall Mall, London, a t the natie^a^ pense, to the memory of Sir John Franklin and the crews of the Erebus and Terrw. The monument be^rs the following i^iscriptions : — " To the great Arctic Navi- #i 200 PROGRESS PV ARCTIC DISCOVERT. gator and his brave coxapanions, who sacrificed their lives to complete the discovery of the North-west pas- siage." "They forged the last link with their lives." It is surmounted by a full-len^fth bronze %ure of Sir John Franklin. In the front is a representation of his Arctic funeral ; and on each side tablets, with the names of the unfortunate officers and crews of the ill-fated hips. The bas-relief on the pedestal was designed by Mr. W. W. May, retired Commander E.N., an eminent water- colour artist. Commander Maj was in the Resolute in J 850-51, and in the .4s«ifi\inn \t\fu\i\ lO yoyc efttho \vEIch they left the following summer mtvro smairboats. They were found by a ^tch whaler. SWBOISH AND OERXAN EXPEDITIONS. 299 Swedish Exploration. Swedish expeditions have been repelled in their exer- tions made between Spitzbergen and Nova Zembla by formidable ice abont the 80th parallel. In 1862 a Swedish steam-vessel reached to about 82°, something more than halfway from Spitzbergen, towards the farthest northern point reached by Parry in 1827. The, expedition also ex- amined and defined much of the east coast of Spitzbergen, NorthJJast Land, and the adjoining islands. In 1870 the Swedes also explored the northern coast of Nova Zembla. In 1872 and 1873 Sweden sent out an expedition to Spitzbergen consisting of the Polhem, Lieut. Palander, to winter there, and the Gladan and Onkel Ada/m aH tenders with supplies, &c. The latter were, however, frozen in, and the resources of the expedition crippled. Only two men, however, -dipd. It is reported by the Swedish papers that Professor Nordenskjold will shortly conduct a new Arctic expedition, the object of which is not esj)ecially to advance to the North Pole, but to carry oti scientific investigations in the Polar regions generally. German Explorations, 1868—70. In 1868 Captain Karl Koldewey, in the screw steamer Qeriiiauia, privately fitted out, was chared to explore the east coast of Greenland northwards ; m ca«e of this proving impossible, he was to tr}r and rediscover the famous land oi Gillis to the east of Spitzbergen, which had been discovered by the Norwegian, GilUs, in 1707, but ha« since been lost sight of. The Oeiifnania was prevented by ice from reaching the Greenland coast; it turned back to the east of Spitzbergen, and went northwards to a little beyond the Slst d^ree. Though failing of its. proper object, the expedition was not without valuabli- results ; it proved that King William's Land, situated in the Straits of Hinlopen, is really an island, as Scoresby had supposed in 1822, and rectified the configuration of the land on the north-east of Spitzbergen. In 1869 another German expedition, fitted out by private funds, was despa-tched under the command of Capttiin Koldewejr, consisting of two ships — a newly - -bnirli wtcttmer, i^ ain namect^ bit laiting" vessel, the llanm, commanded by Captain ¥ Hegeman. The ordinary planking of the Gimnama, which wai^ most strongly built, was protected with thick iron sheathing, 500 PROGRESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVERY. bolted and nveted, whUe over this waa fa^st^ned a layer of sheet iron, so th^t the ice frettiijg at^e ship's sTdes should not force.or rub the caulking out of the seams and thus cause a leaJc: At the bow. ovf r the ii^n sheatC ^rnlllTly^'^r''''' ^^^ '^°^«^^^« close together, if: v!oofi I' u ^^T'^''*'' "^^^ ^ remarkably strong-built vessel her beams being exceptionally massive. The knees were alternately of wood and iron, wlile vertical 8up,S ^iT^r^^'lr *?' middle deck protected it. to^S with bands of the strongest ii-on clamps, from aiy lateral pressure of masses, of ice against the ship's sides THa sharp build of the vessel waf also considered o r nder^? probable that she would rise on , the. ice rather than be irozen m and nipped. Her machinery was onlyT he used amongst the ice, or when going against the wini and her screw was so arranged as to be easily raised The ?ZZTV"^l''\,Vt^ t«ns burthen, wh'ile the ships selected tor the British naval expedition of 1875 ara aJmost large enough to hoist her on board. Her drau^h? of water wa^ from nine to ten feet, and it is re^rted tSJ the advantage of her drawing so little was saSftorilv proved on tl^ voyage, while her smaU beam-twe^y^twj * h:*^''5!h1 ?o?t^'?;?"^ the narrow channels tfweln tne ice. Ihe cost of this model Arctic cruiser, includini^ n^aejiinenr and fittings, was but 3150Z "iciuamg With Captam Koldewey on board the aemiama went the foUowmg scientific members-Dr. Karl Borir a Prussian, and Dr. E. Oopeland, an BnirUshmanlnrf ^L! ana Ihe History ot Arctic Winterings." Lieutenant JuhusPayer.an Austrian military officer and Dr Adolphus Pansch. were also attached to th^ GeZanfa Beucholz^ Dr. Gustavus Laube. Professor of Zo?)loc^* Vienna. The account of this expedition inclnHi^J S^' naxratjve of the wreck of the HanZT^eZtZ^Cl published m two volumes. ^^ The east coast of Greenland, was, as before to be a basis of operations, and the expedition w^s t^go as fa? towards the Pole as possible, 7etumintr if mL?*+!5 about Ist of November: 1870. The lio ^'essels^kTpt*^' mg some way southwards, was at length crush^lwiSi the ni^Hsure. The voyagers took refuge on an mmense ice.floe. some seven miles in circumference, building on it ^ OERHAN EXPLORATIONS. 301 a coal hut to winter in, which, in its turn, was also de- stroyed. Drifted about by winds and currents part of the time in the darkness of polar night, the voyagers saw with dismay that their floe was gradually breaking up and melting away. Happily they had saved their boats, A r*'^"?^ reached more hospitable regions, embarked, and by dint of rowing and sailing, reached Friedrichs- thal, a missionary station in the south of Greenland, whence a steamer conveyed them to Copenhaaen Qst September, 1870). • f » \ y^ The Germania had a more favourable experience It was only in the beginning of August that she found her way opening among the icebergs; and managed to penetrate to a«mall bay by Sabine Island (in the Pen*" . dulum Archipelago) below King William's Land. She then entered a labyrinth of highly mountainous islandH and m a month or two the few open channels closed again and -the voyagers found themselves imprisoned. By the middle of September, the newly-formed ice was strong enough to support sledges, and the captain and his companions availed themselves of the few weeks of autumn daylight still remailiing. to make excursions to various points of the Archipelagb. Then in November commenced the long winter captivity, the sun disappear- ing for three months. The winter was characterized by a series of violent northern tempests, but the thermo- meter did not fall bolow 32° under zero, Centigrade. , The expedition tt-aced out a further northern portion .of the east side of Greenland and defined the coast-line just beyond? Cape Bismarck. The most northern* point reached by sledge journey on the 15th of April, 1870, was a little above the seventy-seventh degree of latitude in long. 18° 50' West from Greenwich. There was no sign of an • open sea towards the Pole. Had it not been for want of proyisions, the party could have prt)longed their sledge- journey indefinitely. In the two months which followed, the voyagers explored, with sledge or small boat, a number of fords and bays to the west and south of the Pendulum Islands. 'Signs of awaking life began to appear in the course of May. On tho 22nd of July, 1870, the Germania once more floated free and pushed her way northwards, but in lat. 7 5° 26' n o t far beyo nd the starting-point, the channel " tiuiie fwled."" 'J'hcro was" rxjf the imgu tetockr of ice being disaggregated before the tempests of autumn, and as the expedition was only equipped for one winter, it was resolved to return to Europe. By the 11th of September, %e Gcmiania was again moored in the Weser. ■^ 302 PROGRESS OP- ARCTIC DISCOVERY. Thougli the great problem sought was not solved, new and more precise ideas were acquired as to the physical and hydrographical nature of Greenland. The portion of the east coast of Greenland visited by the Germania was discovered by Captain GlaVering in the Griper in 1823, when Sir Edward Sabine visited this region, as well as Spitzbergen, to swing the seconds pendulum. The German explorers made a minute and careful survey of the ccast between 73° and 77° N. lat. ; and their work is specially valuable as a fixed and well- defined base on the east coast, to which, probably, one detachment of the, sledge _ ti-avellers from the English Arctic Expedition of 1875-77 may direct its march. The modestly told story of the adventures and eufferinga of the Hansa'a crew, and of, the exploring labours of their more fo]rtunate brethren m the Germania will secure th6 warm sympathy and interest of English readers. The German Polar Committee at' Bremen, which was so active in promoting the despatch of the Germania, is taking steps to secure the equipment of a fresh Arctic expedition. If the idea is promptly made to take definite form and shatpe, a German expedition may b6 utilized to very good effect, in a general scheme for the examination of the unknown, area round the Pole. It would proceed, like the Germania, to the east coast of Greenland, and could then usefully co-opierate in the discovery of the noi'them boundary of that vast mass of land. Tne direct distance from Hall's farthest up Smith Sound to Cape Bismarck, the-most northern point seen by th^ Germans ' on the east side, is about 540 milfes. This distance must bo doubled if the coast tends much to the north. M'Clintock made a sledge ioumey of 1200 mites, which can be repeated. Sq,that the uiii^d efforts of one of the vessels of our Arctic expedition on the west side, and of German expedition on the east side of Greenland, a oould, under tne least favourable oircumstances, complete the discovery of the whole northern side. This will be a geogrfiphicai feat of the first importance, although it is . only a portion of ' the work to be done. Austrian Discoveries. 1871 — 1874. Lieutenant Payer, one of the most active members in ib» 0«rm»a frspoditipa, strongly poxHcafted wi^ tba itXea- he of a navi^i\ble ocean beyond the ice barrier, set out, in 1871, with M*>Weyprecht, partly to try and find the land of Gillis. They tlia not succeed in this ; but they pe^ie- trated 150 miles further north than their predecessors in ■-..Aate±.i^;dBfe<^Ag^.s£AL^ mmm AUSTRIAN DISCOVERIES. 303 that region. Beyond the 76tli degree, and between 42-' and 60"^ E. long., they still had open sea, and the tempe- ratnre of the surface varied between 2P and 4° above zero C. Want of provisions, however, obliged them to return, which was to be regretted, for the season had proved exceptionally favourable. >The Austrian explorers, agaiii left Norway in 1S72, reafched the latitude of 82'^ by sledge journeys, and observed continuous land as- fai? as 83°, but were obliged to- abandon their vessel in the ice barrier, near the 80th pjarallel. The following paper, by Lieutenant Julius Payer; read before the Royal Geographical Society in London, at the meeting of Nov. 10, 1874, gives a succinct account of the adventures and discoveries of the expe- dition: — " It was not the object of the Austrian Expedition to search for the unknown country which the results of our t)reliminary expedition, undertaken ia 1871, had made it likely would be found to the north of Novaya Zcmlya, but to discover a north-east passage. - This, its principal object, the Exjjedition has failed to attain; and the country referred to was discoveyed instead. The Tegetthoff, a screw-steamer of 300' to\i8, left Sre- merhafen on the 13th of June, 1872, furnished with stores and provisions calculated to last about three years. Including Captain Carlsen, the well-known Norwegian , navigator, who joined the expedition at Tromso, in the capacity of ice-mate and harpooner, the crew numbered tw6nty-four men, amo^igst whom were sixteen Dalmatian seamen. On the evening of the 14th of July we left Tromso, shaping our course towards the north-east. A few days afterwards we doubled the North Cape, and, on the 25tli of July, when in 74° 30' N. latitude, and 48° E. longi- tude, we reached^ the edge of the iiacked ice, the uuex^ pectted|y southern position of whiclx we had every right to consider a bad omen. The masses of ice against which \tq had to stniggle at that time, as well as those which we encountered subse- quently, were cei'tainly far less formidable than those with which wo had become acquainted five years before, on the coast of G reenland, bnt they nevertheless seriously obstructed our progress. Large floes, separated by navi- -gabl e lanes of water, were rar e ly met^ wit h, hut imtuenBO — along the coast, through a second barrier of ice, and only reached open water in the latitude of William .Island. When still a little south of that island, we were over- taken by the yacht Ishjorn, in which Count Wilczek had effected his difficult passage from Spitzbergen, m oi-der to establish a depot for our use near Cape Nassau. The two vessels kept company as far as the low Barents Island, where compact masses of ice, driven by Bouth- westerly winds towards the coast, barred all pro- gress for a week. Only on the 2 1st of August, the ice having exhibited symptoms of breaking up, we parted company, and the Tegetthoff steamed slowly away tovAards the north. But our hopes were vain! Night found us encom- passed on all sides by ice— encompassed for two long and drearf years ! Cheerless and barren of all hope the hrst year lay before us, for we were not any longer discoverers, but dooihed to remain as helpless voyagers on a ftoe of drifting ice. The unusually severe frost of the autumn of 1872 soon solidified the surrounding fragments of ice, from which neither sawing nor blasting was able to effect our re- lease. All our exertions were frustrated by its incredible elasticity, and by the rapidity with which pieces sawn asunder froze together again. .Thus fettered We dritted, at the mercy of the winds, towards the north-east. Our position was thus sufficiently miserable, but on the 13th of October it became gloomy in the extreme. On that day the lethargy in which everything around us had so long been buried suddenly gave place to active commotion, and thenceforth we were exposed to the tear- ful pressure of the ice. Many a time wo were summoned to be ready to save ourselves in case of the vessel foun- derincr, and aU this in the midst of a Polar night, and ■without knowing whither to turn for safety. Our vessel, however, bravely withstood the pressure, though the iioe upon which it was fixed had been uplifted by others, which had forced their way under it, thus raising hqr att, n,pfl cauaing her to lean over on the larboard si^* "■"* AUSTRIAN DISCOVERIES. -3o) were most intense between eight and ten Jn the eveuiu^r and their appearance was never attended by noise' Magmfacent lights proved generally the forerunners of bad weather. The auroras and magnetic phenomena were observed bv Lieutenant Weyprecht. In the summer of 1873 our hopes of an early destruc- tion of the floe, and consequent liberation, revived. In the course of the summer we observed a maximum tem- perature of 45-5° Fahrenheit ; the black bulb thermo- meter occasionally indicated a solar heat of 113" Fahren- heit, and on days like these, when there was ho wind we had a sensation of stinging heat. The mean temperature of the past year had been 275° Fahrenheit. Vpifr hopes were^sed upon the evaporation of the ice caused by the powerful effect of the sun, and upon its destruction by winds and waves, but not upon its melting in a sea, the surface temperature of which never rose above freezing point. Ihe progressive conversion of surface ice into fsludge was witnessed by us from day to day, the cliffs and waJls of icdkmmbling away, and evaporating until nearly the whole surrounding sea was covered with a thick chaotic Ityev^oi sludge. '' •Thus encouraged, we made fresh efforts to re<^ain our liberty, and the months of May, June, July, and August Avere spent in futile attempts to saw through the ice which surrounded us. But our floe, which had attained a thick- ness ut forty feet in consequence of other floes forcino- themselves underneath it, rendered all our attempts f utib ihe centre of our vessel, and the uplifted part abaft re- inamed immovably fixed upon the floe. .Tbe surrounding- ice and snow having melted away and evaporated to the extent of twelve to eighteen feet, we found ourselves fixed <^ at a considerable elevation above the general level and the danger of being capsized had to be provided against by supporting our masts ^vith strong shears. I ought to state that our floe varied considerably in size from time to time. During the last winter it was shattered almost daily, but congealed again immediately. At the time now_ referred to (August, 1873) it was five to seven miles m diameter. The northerly winds of July drifted us to the south, as tar as lat. 79 , but August saw us again drifting tp IhaJl orl h . J oug h t t o s tat e di^inotly tha t no iht ng j u sti^--^ nea us 11^ the assumption that the direction of our drift was at any time due to oceanic currents. ' The winds alone caused it, and a cessation of the wind led to n X 2 :: !- A'' S08 PROGRESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVERT. cessation in the movement of the ice. It struck us as remarkable that the direction in which we drifted was always to leeward, and that our vessel should have slued only to the extent of 1° in azimuth during the four pre- ceding winter months. In the course of the summer of 1873, when in about 79° N. lat., and 60° long., we drifted over an extensive bank, our soundings, which had hitherto varied between 100 and about 275 fathoms, becoming much less. The temperature of the sea was measured at different depths, and the use of the dredging apparatus resulted in a small zoological collection, only a j)ortion of which we were able to bring to Europe. Drawings of some of the specimens which we had to abandon have, however, been made. Our hopes that the ice would break up grew less and less every day, though the familiar grating sound which proceeds from the ice giving way was heard frequently, and dark streaks on the honzon pointed to the existence of open fissures. We had already resigned ourselves to the necessity of being obliged to*^ass a second winter, ;as inactive and perilous as the first, when the state of affairs all of a sudden underwent a change in our favour. We had long ago been drifted into a portion of the Arctic Sea which had not previouslv been visited, but in spite of a careful look-out, we had not been able hitherto to discover land. It was, therefore, an event of no small importance, when, on the 31st of August, we were surprised/ by the sudden appearance of a moun- tainous country, about fourteen miles to the north, which the mist had/up to that time, concealed from our view. At that moment all our past anxieties were forgotten ; impulsively we hastened towards the land, though fully aware that we should not be able to get further than the edge of our floe. For months we were doomed to suffer the torments of Tantalus. Close to us, and, in fact, almost within reach, was a new Polar lan^frich with the promise of discoveries, and yet, drifting as -we were at the mercy of the winds, and surrounded by.bpeji fissures, we were unable to get any ifearer to it. ^-t Atjlength, towards the end of October, we M)proached withm three miles of one of the islands lying off the main mass of the laud. Every other consideration was now thrown to the winda, and, TnnlriTi^ mir -way over the. rugged, hummocky surface of the ice, we, for the first time, placed our foot upon land in lat. 79° 54' N. The ice covering the sea close tQ the shore was only one foot ;ap- Jii&r: NEW ItAUD DISCOVEBED. 30J> in thickness, and it was clear that an op^n lane of water had existed periodically during the pj:eceding summer. An island more desolate than that which we had reached can hardly be imagined, for snow and ice covered its frozen and d6bris-covered slopes. But to us it was of such importance that the name of Count Wilczek, the originator of our expedition, was conferred upon it. The sun had deserted us for the second time on the 22nd of October, but we availed ourselves of the few hours of twilight, vouchsafed to us for a week afterwards, to make a few excursions to a distance of ten miles f roni the vessel, without, however, being able to enlarge our knowledge of the new country. Was it merely tha southern capes of islands of small extent which we had before us, or a country of large extent ? Nor were wo able to determine whether the white patches, which ^ye discovered high up between the mountain summits, wete glaciers or not. ' T • The increasing darkness of the Polar night for,t}ie pre- sent rendered every attempt at exploration impossible, and we feared lest northerly winds might drift us far away from our. present position, before the approach of spring should enable us to commence our exploratory 30umeys. Nor was our position at the time at all a safe one. Southerly winds had driven us close to the land, and during the first half of October we still suffered seriously from the pressure of the ice. Our floe was shivered into fragments, and it almost appeared as if the anxious days through which we had passed were about to return. In expectation of an unfortunate issue, wo took the same measures of precaution which we had taken during the preceding winter, and were ready to leave the ship at a moment's notice. Fortune, however, did not again forsake us, and we were permitted to pass the second Polar night (125 days in length) without suf- fering the horrors of the first. There occurred no further pressure from the ice, and our harbourless vessel, fixed to its floe, and surrounded for the first time by icebergs, remained immovable, close within the outer edge of the land-icejand».»t a distance of three miles from the nearest coast. * This position enabled us to look towards the future with a certain amount of assurance ; it rendered exis- tonco niuie endurable^ and ensDled WeyprScht, BroschT and Orel to determine the magnetic elements with a great amount of accuracy. Orel, moreover, determined the astronomical position of our winter-quarters, which ^^ t> './' V-'~-yp|^»'y^^>gi>»k^ga? ;y|^<8j^^ 310 PROGHESS OP ARCTIC DISC50VERY. u.' ^•'^° 56' E. he found to be in lat. . 79^ 51' N.. long.. 58= During the winter of 1873-74 mnch more snow fell than during the preceding one, and snow-drift^ brought on by northerly winds, continued for days. At the height of the Polar night we were scarcely able to distinguish night from day, and were enshrouded in darkness for weets. Christmas was celeUra^d in a snow-house, built upon our floe. In January Mi^cold set in again exceedihgly severe, and the merctir^ re- mained frozen for more than a week. The snow became as hard as pumice, and its surface granular. ITie petro- • Jeum in the glass igmps under the awning froze, the lamps went out, and even our cognac was changed into a solid mass. v t. j The visits of bfsars were as frequent then as tiiey had been at other seasons of the year ; they came close up to ttie ship, and. wore killed by re^rulai* volleys fired rrom deck. The bears here are certamly much less feroctons than thpi^we met with in Eastern Greenland, where they not unfrequently attacked us, and on one occasion even carried* one of the crew out of the ship. Here they generally took to flight as soon as we made /onir appear- •fence. As regard* *the disputed question .ifeheiiier beari pass the winter in a dormant state or not, yfh observed, that amongst the great number shot, 'By us during two winters, there was not a single fern a W and during ottr qpecond sledge expedition, in the 8|mM t)f 1874, we even discovered a tunnel-shaped wini|«ole in a snow-cone lying at tli^ foot of a cliff, Vhieh was inhabited by, a female bear ind her cubs. ,©n encountering bears wft found ft generally most adjitntageous to fire after they had approached within a ^tance of fifty or eighty paces. A portion of the flesji of sixty-seVen ice*bear» which were killed, amounting !^ltogether to about 12,000 lbs., ' )roved to be the mpst efficient remedy against the ■^ rvy, from which eipveraJ of our men were again suf- Twihg. The care of our surgeon, as well as t)ie reapi>ear- ance of the sun, on the 24th of February, saved most of our patients from protracted suffering ; -but owing to onr stock of medieines having become very mncb re- duced, a third winter would certainly have oxhibittvl far mere unfavourable results. This consideration, joined to the c ertainty that onr ves s el was indisaolnb ly fix ed to . ■ ■ * ' I . ^ ■ 1 . 1 ' ' •-''*— "WefloeTwHcXihlHreMmngsumH^^^ about at the mercy of the winds, as well as the danger of its capsizing on the melting of the snow, led to the resolution to abandon the vessel, towards the end of May, rii h^i^..jiu^iimii^.^>»-w..n..,ir!mmilimi»,,'m ■■ii^im^ SLEDGE BXFLOSATldKS tJOT)«RtAKEN. 311 *iid attempt a return to Europe Ly means of our boata and sledges. The interval was to be devoted to an ex- ploration of the country by means of sledge expeditions, the fortunate termination of which mua* be feft, in no small measure, to chance. For had the vessel been drifted away during the absence of the explorers they would have been exxwaed to certain destruction, and the crew re- maining on board would have been weakened seriously. But the exploration of the countiy, lying as it did so invitingly before us, was considered " to be worth the risk. March liad arrived, anti although the cold was still severe, and the weather by no means favourable, the necessity of making the best of the short space of time at our (Hsposal, induced us to start upon, our first sledge expedition. On the 10th of Mareh the Tyrolese Haller and Klotz, the sailors Gattarinich, Lettis, Pospischill, and Lukinovich, three dogs and myself, left the Tegetthoff with our big sledge. We travelled in a north-wester^- direction along the coast of the extensive Hall Island, ascended Capes Tegetthoff and M'Olintdck, 2600 feet in height, and traversed the picturesque Nordenskjold Fiord, the interior of which was bounded by the gigantic ioe-wall of the Bonklar glacier. The land belore us appeared to be utterly vmd of life; immense glaciers looked down upon us from between the desolate moun- tains, which rose boldly in steep doleritic cones and plateaux. Every object around us was clothed in a mantle of faring white, and the ranges of columns of Ihe symmetrical Mountain ten-aces looked as if they were encrasted with sugar. In no single instance could we see the natural colour of the rock, as in Greenland, ' Spitzbergen, or Novaya Zemlya. This was owing to thp immense precipitation and Uie moisture of tiie air, which condensed on coming into contact with the cold surface of the cliffs. The uuusual moisture of the air, moreover, caused us frequently to ovor-estimate distances, which is <|uite contrary to the usual Arctic experience. Perfectly clear days were exceedirigly rare. i' The cold during this journey was vtjry great, aod amounted on one ocowion to —.58° Fahrenheit (on board ship it was— 46-26'' Fahrenheit). We were bound to lexeroiiie the greattet preoautionj our jiightly rwrt in ^ tte fentwas distuAed, and tibe orossing^f lie Sonlclir glacier, during a slight wind, was excee^bngly painfSlT' Onr clothes wore as stiff as a coat of mail, and even our rum, strong as it was, appeared to )mit» lott botk pottncy .^..„.^.^>-.y...^ ^i«_a^iaa - -^ -Pi, mmu 313 rBOOREss or arctic discovery. li «'. w and fluidity. We slept in fnr coats, but in the daytime- we found that clothes made of the skins of birds were best adapted for resisting the rigour of the climate. In spite of every precaution, however, we suffered much from frost-bites, against which ,a mixture of iodine and collodion proved most efl&cacious. Immediately on our return to the vessel, on the 16th of March, we set about making preparations for a second sledge expedition, which was to extend over thirty days,, and was to be devoted to an exploration of the land in the north. • Soon afterwards one of our companions (Mr. Krisch, the engineer) succumbed to a protracted tuber- culosis of the lungs, aggravated by scurvy. On the 19th we buried him in a lonely spot surrounded by columnar basalt, and erected a wooden cross upon his grave. On the 24th of March we started for the north. Our party included Mr. Orel, the two Tyrolese, three sailors (Zaninovich, Sussich, Lukinovich), and myself. We all wore snow spectacles, blinkers, masks covering half the- face, knitted woollen gloves, "and sail-cloth boote. We wore armed with double-barr6ll^ Lefaucher rifles having a calibre df 12 millimetres and firing explosive bullets and= steel-pointed projectiles. In preparing our equipment we followed explicitly the advice given by Admiral Sir Leopold M'Clintock, and the successful issve of our expedition is due, largely, to this circumstance. Our team of dogs, unfortunately, was not any longer- complete, and only three of them assisted us in dragging the large sledge, which carried stores and provisions weighing 16 cwts. The rest of the dogs were either dead or incapable of rendering service, but even the three- remaining ones, beipg powerful animals, proved valuable auxiliaries. The temperature during this journey, quite contrary to our expectations, did not fall below— 26*50° Fahrenheit, butanftwdrifts and moisture, the opening of fissures in the ice, and the flooding of our path by the sea, gave us much trouble. The results of this journey cannot be fully appreciated without reference to maps and sketehes, and anticipating the chronological order of our report, we will at once state that tfce newly-discovered country equals Spitzbergen in extent, and consists of several larger masses of land— Wilca p k Land v s t tbe^ «twi, Ziehy^ Lttftther«ttr«Hw^ to its several parts. "Owing to the mist which generally hung over the ice, we should nbt.have been able to trace the norUterly direc- e? uanio fF .• ■♦ BLBDGE PARTIp DIVIDED. 315 tf6n of the Jlustria Sound, had ye not frequently ascended high mountainB. The ascents of Capes Koldewey (80° 1'5'), Frankfurt (80° 25'), Bitter (80^ 45'), Kane (81°"^ lO*), and Fligel^ (82° 5'), moreover enabled us to survey ^e sitr- rtmndmg country and* to select the most suitable tracks to follow. . < An uninterrupted expanse of ice, with numerQus ice- , bergs scattered oyer its surface, extended from coast to coast. It was evidently of recent formation, and nume- Tous fissures, and barriers formed of hummocks, crossed ,it-m many places, and constituted prions obstacles to our progress, which we were able to surmount only at a vast expenditure of time and labour. Our track then led over this expanse of ice aiid starting from Cape Frankfurt, at the portal of Austria Sound, it led us through regiona with .respect to which we had learnt nothing during our first sledge journey. Oinittingj for the present, all details concerning our journey, it may suffice to state that we crossed the 80th degree of latitude oh the 26th of March, reached the latitude of 81° on the iSrd of April, and observed, five days afterwards, the latitude of 81° 37'i We imagined at that time that we had approached nearer to the Pole on laud than h^d ever been done bef6re, for we were not then aware that the American expedition under Hall had reached 82° 9' N. oi% land, ^.nd 8i!? 16', by sea, the yeiai* before. «' " To the south-east of Crown Prince Rudolf Land we turned into t^e vast Rawlinson Sound, whi«h {J^omiSed to lead us a,lmo8t stiuight to the north. But we eo'dti got entangled in a chaotic ma,Bs oif ice, which, orvviiig to its height, prevented us from seeing the land, and through which it required our utmost exertions to force our way. The small horizontal intensity of th6 needle, moreover, which is but natural in, such a high latitude, repeatedly mad6 us lose ow way, and finding that the hilloQks of ice became more formidable, in prot>Oi'tioB->a» we advanced, we chaiiged our course, and returhed to the Austria' 8ouJi(l* W« frequentlj^encountered ice bears whilst in Rawlinson Sound. Th6y came towards us whenever they caught sight of us, ^nd fell an easy prey ^ our rifl^es. The decrease of our provffeions and the waritjjf time at our disposal, made forced marohes necessary,' and' neces- BJtated a separa tio n of ^ nTi . i^ i^ -n QHI party, Ths large jlodgo/w^ •8, was left behind in lat. 81° 38', Haller and four others, .„ .„ ...... ^.. , under a cliff of Hohenlohe Island, whilst Orel, Zanlnovich, and mysalf, with the. dog- sledge and half the tent, con- tinued the journey. The sledge wan now drawtf by two •4 •,: ■^ n S16 tHH PBOORESS OF ABCnO DISCOVERT. \^ dogs only, the tKird, a Lai)land reindeer dog, having abme^ time previdusly perished in a snow storm. Haller was . ordered to wait a fortnight for otir return, and then, to make the best of his waybactto the vessel.. Onr first aim t^as to cross Crown Pnnce Rudolf Land . in 6. northerly direction. This necessitated our crossmg the extensive Middendorf Glacier, which past experience and the gpcfituol^ justified us in believing to be i)0S8lble, and we at once set about it. After a laborious journey alonfiLthe long terminal clifiFjof the glacier, we at length succeeded in gaining .its surface, but had scarcely pro- ceeded a hundred paces, when,an immense crevasse Swal- lowed Tip Zaninovich, the dogs, and the heavily-laden^ sledge. Mr.' (frel, fortunately,' had remained some dis- tance behind, and. I escaped a similar fate by cutting through my harness.- Not being able by^myself to extri- cate those engulfed, I ran bacKlo Hohenlohe Island,, twelve miles distant, whence I quickly returned with the rest of our party. By means of long ropes we succeeded at length in raising man, dogs, and sledge to the surface, and were fortunate in being able to continue our journey on the following day without having sustained serious injury. The men petumed to' the dep6t ; and <5ur small party having abandoned the treacfherous surface of the glacier, gained the western coast of the island by a cir-- cuitous path, along which we travelled to the north* Here we were destined to witness a most striking change in the aspect of nature. A water sky, of dusky colour, made its appearance in the north ; foul yellow vapours collected below the sun, the temperature rose, the ground nnder our feet became soft, and the snowdrifts broke under us with a rumbhng noise. We had previously noticed the flight of birds from the north— here we found the rocks covered with thousands of auks and divers. They rose before us in immense swarms, and filled the air with the noise of their vehement whizzing, for breeding- time had arrived. Traces of bears, hares, and foxes were met with everywhere, and seals reposed sluggishly upon the ice." We were justified, therefore, in bebevmg that open water was near at hand, but personal observations which Ve were able to make on the following day, after we had ascended the hills, and the results of which I have f.T n bf y tiA'i in R HJcfttch. showed that even our not very san guine expectations, as r^ardcd the extent ©f open^water, were not realized. ^ ,tr Our track henceforth was far from safe. We were no longer travelling over old ice, but over a crust of young jkt -'-^■'i'^'™-"— *■'— »^--J*'^°^ . . . . , ^' ^'^ NOBTHEBNUOBT POINT BEACHED. 317 ice, hardly on^ or two inches thick, covered with salt, • very flexible, and crossed by veritable walls, built up of fragments resulting from recent fractures of the ice. We tied ourselves to the rope, carried our things sepa- rately, opened a path with the axe, and continually exam- ined the thickness of the crust which bore us. We ^rounded Auk Cap§^ which resembled a gigantic aYiary, and reached the two lonely rocky towers of the Oape of Columns. Here we first found open water extend- ingalong the coast. This distant world was^ sublime in its beauty. From a height we looked down upon the dark sheet of open water, dotted with icebergs like so many pearls. Heavy clouds hung in th« skj', through which penetrated th6 glowing rays of the sun, cau8in|f the water to sparkle ; and above was reflected the image of another sun, but of a paler hue. Atan apparentiy immense height the ice-moun- tains of Crown Prince Rudolf Land, bathed in a roseate hue, stood out* clearly visible through the rolling mists. The 12th of April was the last day of our advance to the north, und, although not perfectly bright, it was more so than most of its predecessors. Th^ thermometer stood at -I- 54°-50 Fahrenheit. From the Cape of Columns, owing to the open water referred to, it was not any longer practicable to travel over the ice, and we were compelled to take to the hills. On starting, we buried our baggage in the crevaspe of a ^ glacier, in which we bad slept, and where it was safe from pifewling i(Je-bears, and with the dog-sledge we travelled over a snow-field towards the hills, which were 1000 to 3000 feet in height. On reaching the prominent rooky ^ Cape Germania, observed the meridional altitude (8'l° hY N.). ^Here we left the sledge, and, tied to the rope, crossed the neve of a glacier, which descended in gigantic steps towards our left. But the many crevasses which ob- structed onr path, and into which we broke f requentiy, as well as the certainty* of having reached latitude 82° 6' Nl after a march of five hours since noon, induced ns to abandon farther discovery, and having puahed to the north for seventeen days, we halted on the neight of Cape Fliffely. We were tow in a position to. judge of the extent of coast-water. It turned out to b© a " polynia" bounded mation. There cannot be any doubt that the facts observed and \ the sight upon which we looked from Capo Fligely, spoke ^ > ^, aa^gaatf asaa i att att '~;iiiiiii! '.^fj'.f^-.-iSt''" 818 WoORESS OF AHC3TIC MSGOVKRT. as little in favour of the theory, of those who beheve m the existence of an open Polar Sea, as of those who main- tain that the Polar basin is covered with ice throughout the jrear. The truth will probably be found to he between these two extremes. The hope of finding a navigable sea in latitudes not hitherto attained, is not yet extinct, and is most likely to be realized by hugging the coast, but de- pends in a large measure upon a favourable year. • The success of an expeclition sent out to attain the highest possible latitude depends, moreover, largely upon the route selected. The plan of penetrating through Smith Sound, which lias been advocated m this country, appears ^foffer most advantages in th^e respects. Any' theoretical* reasons adduced in favour T>f this route are seconded most powerfully by the fact that a very high latitude has been reached here on repeated occasions, it an expedition should succeied in reaching a wmter-harbour in St, latitude as high as that reached by the last American expedition,, it would then be in, a position, by means of extensive sledge-journeys along the coast, to i-each a lati- tude in the course of spring, the attamment of which would be attended by far greater difficulties along any other i*oute. r» > Our own track to the pOrth of Novaya Zemlya carrifes no weight in considering this question, for we are indebted for our progress to a iioe of ice and not to our own exer- tions. The difficulties which any 'sneeeedmg navigator would have to contend with on this route may be esti- mated froin the fact, that on our return we found the sea encumbered with ice to such an extent that even boat uavigatien was hardly possible, and we were obliged to haul up our boats many hundred times, and drag them over the"ice. We cei-tainly should not have been able to return in oir vessel, although the summer of 1874 was excep- tioftAlly favourable., ,We had before us extensive lands., covered with moun- tains, and bounding a wide sound stretching towards the north-east, which we were able to trace as far as latitude 83^ N. where the imposing Cape Vienna fotms t^ie wes. tern extremity of a country upon which I conferred the name of Pctermann, to whom geographical science, and larticularly Arctic explorers, are so largely indebted. Crown Prince Rudolf Laud extended towards the north- V rocky - IWI" ^a5t.it3' 3ud-wg4p pe4 med in none onour of promontory, in latitude 82 iO JN ., Admiral Sherard Osbom. , , ^^ • Two other localities visited by us, but hot on this occa* '<: '"'^' J.imBJh-»mHm.mifcu^^BB3^ , » . , '^mmiimmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmiit THE PARTY BETUBN TO TH^R SHIP. 319 nout, were named alter two other renowned English navi- gators — vUi., Admirals Collinson and Back. "We do not desire to start any fresh theory with refe- rence to the distribution of land around tiie Pole, but the coasts, as well as the gigantic glaciers, certainly gave us the impression of having entered a group of islands of considerable extent, thus partly confinuing Fetermann's theory of an Arctic archipelago. The innumerable icebergs met with in all the fiords of Francis-Joseph Land formed a remarkable feature, for to the south of it — that is, in the Novaya Zemlya Sea— scarcely any were met with. We are not in a position to ascribe the presence of these icebeiigs to ocean-currents, though their absence in the Novaya Zemlya Sea would appear to point to their finding an outiet towards the northi , '. Having planted the Austro-Hfjjgifi '^^ 'jwaier upon the furthest point reached by us, ,and deposited a document testifying our presence in a deft of the rocks, we turned back towards our vessel, which lay some 160 miles to the south. . . ; * Haviiig rejoined our oommiuies, who anxiously waited for our return, at Hohenlohe Island, forced marches, and a deliverance from all impediments, excepting the tent and provisions, soon brought us to lower latitudes. But after we had crossed the glaciers of the imposing Ladenburg Island, and reached Cape Bitter (19th April), we were 'disquieted bv the observation that the sea-water hgid perr meated the lower layer of snow, whilst a dark^sr^r-sky hung over the broad entrance to the MajpfeHam Sound. On retiring to rest we distinctly heard the grinding noise of ice, and the surge beating against the shore. / The next day found us on an iceberg not far from the Hayes Islands, with open water in front of us, and no boat to cross it. The water set rapidly towards the north, owing, probably, to the tide. The southern portion of Austria Sound had been converted into a " polynia," and at a distance of thirty paces from where we stood the surf lashed the ice. After erring about for two days during a fearful snowstorm, we managed, by following the land and the mural terminations of glaciers, to get round this open water, which shut off our return, and it was with a feeling of deliverance that We again stepped upon the solid tee near Cape Frankfurt. Our last apprehensions '^Sro^6Mowd"'WBM""WlfouSt^ffiaF1our vesseX had hot drifted away, and on the 5i4th of April wo'-^gain met the Tegetthoff, on thib very spot to the south o| Wilczek -r-W, wsm iin \ 330 PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERT. Island where we had left Her thirty days before. A few days had necessarily to be devoted to repose ; for although we had eaten the flesh of ei^ht bears, which we killed during oar journey, this addition tc^ur diet was not suf- ficient to counterbalance the reduction in our strength brought about by the extraordinary exertioM which we were called upon to undergo, when dragging/ a sledge for eight to ten hours at a stretch, and a night's rest of only five hours' duration. Our third sledge journey was devoted to an exploration of the extensive McClintock Island. Brosch, Haller, and myself, with the dog-sledge, joined in it. When about forty miles to the west of our ship we ascended a high mountain, and were able to survey the country as far as about longitude 46° E. It was mountainous in character, the mountains a^in bearing a great resemblance to the Ambas of Abyssmia, and attained its culminating point in the Eichthofen Peak, about 5000 feet in height. Closely i>acked ice covered the sea towards the south, as far as the teye could reach, and rendered our prospects of a speedy return home by no means cheerful. On the termination of this journey. Lieutenant Wey- precht measured a base-line on the ice near the ship, and we then considered that we had done Everything m our power to accomplish the objects of the expedition, and our thoughts were directed exclusively to pur return home. The period immediately before starting was devoted to recruiting our strength. We took leave of the grave of our departed comrade, and of the country which the caprice of a floe of ice had enabled us to discover. On the 20th of May, in the evening, the flags were nailed to the masts of the ship at Wilczek Island— an affecting scene for all of us— and we started upon our return." The Eoyal Geographical Society has awarded to Lieu- tenant Payer and Lieutenant Weyprecht gold medals for their services rendered in Arctic exploration. Notwithstanding these continuous and earnest efibrts made by foreigners, it is remarkable that Parry, in his boat and sledge journey, made in 1827, from the northern part of Spitzbergen, attained the highest latitude yet •^reached, and that the credit due to ihe geographical achievement- of the position nearest the North role still rflTnaina with England. The failures howev er of Germany, Sweden, and Austria in the directions in which they have respectively made their explorations, notwithstanding the fine achievements of the latter nation, have a material '■^ a, ^ ^ f PB0P08A1S FOB A NEW EXPEDITION. 32-1 bearing on the ^[uestion of Great Britain again assumino- ■ Arctic exploration. The area for reachin^^Se Pole Tl^ m consequence of thos^ failures, been narrowed and fs ehifted to re^ons^originallv explored by E^lTsSien and « w5 ajid fairest gateway to the Pole, and only lately abandoned by the Americans from a combinatiSa of un^ toward orcumstances. The failure of perfect success^n. t'r^J^V"^ anticipated, it Say be observed, by thos^ experienced m Arctic vojraging aid travelling, wLweU knew tiie Necessity of sklllTd training, proved apT^nce» on Z^^n^^A^^^ (as having a most i^^^^ luring on the subject now under consideration) *^"^ is concerned, for all^Sterested m geographical science, and egpeciaUy for Arctic travel- lers, to undertake another trial. Such is a brief outUne of what has of late veara b««w. accomp ished in Arctic exploration. The t^e^Hne ^ en Wnses bristling with &culty ; and i^ Z s^aks of a Wity of purpose, a fertility of resource, a heroism oi endurance that were woriihy of them. The work haT S recent years been mostly in the hands of other nations tiian ours, but it is pleasing to find that England has once more bestirred herself for the great underiS^g. Pboposals for a New Expedition. nhJht J^'*' '^A ^f^^?» ^'^icle, thus speall of th® object now sought to be obtained :— +v,r ^® Fu^i^T ^ ^® n^"*^^®*^' <^r a* least attempted, by the North Polar Expedition, has for many year? had a rare fascination for more than one class of iinds. The Soa Sht*iT*f? ^^ '^' world-Europe. Asia, and Ame! ^nir. ? ^f^^ '\ ^^^ "'^^y *»P««t«' i»ave each it» northern boundary about the 70th degree of latitude penetrating the Arctic Circle, and ther? stopping where h^y and the poete telt w^tevM Vfiispairon f^- bidden ground That great circle, which has the Nori;h Pole for Its centre and 1200 mUes of more or less icy aea Y ' '1^ Ir^ itt. T "'•^' T^^^^m .«22 PR0QBE8S Oi" ARCTIC DISCOVERT. ^ for its radius, has for near^^ three centuries attracted the enterprising spirits of the^irronnding nations. Com- merce and adventure have led their respective followera into its ioe-bound interior from every portion of the circum- ference. The whale trade originated in the discoveries of Barentz and Hudson, and familiarized the minds of sailors to #ie nature of Arctic dangers and the means of over- ta coming them. Holland, Norway, Russia, England, and '" the United States have each pWed its part in the mva- > J* sion of the unknown region. The islands of Ghreenland, Iceland, Spitzbergen, and New Siberia have been visit^ and mapp^ by the efforts of several nations. Bnglajid, in the search for a north-west passage and for Franklin's missing expedition„has explored and surveyed the great. Arctic Archipelago, which lies to the northward of North America, extends for 1000 miles from east to west, and reaches halfway to the Northern Pole. It has been eatab- lished by num6i-ous experiments that the 80th degree of north latitude may be reached in a few weeks in sever^ directions almost any year, and several explorers, English «nd American, have managed, on sledge or afloat, to get still nearA- to the Pole by 100 or 200 miles. British en- terprise longs to traverse the intervening space, and after ten years' hesitation the attempt is about to be made. " We publish a list of ships, comprising government and private expeditions, both British and foreign, which have been on exploring service within the Arctic Circle since the year 1847. Ik addition to the thirty-three ships of which particulars. are given, it is stated that eighteen . others, including the recent Swedish, Gertnan, and^w- trian Expeditions, and the voyages of Mr. B. Leight^M^i^ have penetrated the Polar Scab, making a total of oV€^^ similar enterprises in twenty-seven years without a'dis^ aster. Many of our readers will, we think, be surprised to find that since the great catastrophe which befel Sir John Franklin's party, and which occupied so large a mea- gure of our thoughts, so many expeditions have pene- trated the inhos^table Polar region with so small a loss of life. The death-rate of these Arctic services has been actually lower than that of many of our squadrons en- gaged on ordinary service. There have for some t^e been two competing routes, the one by way of Spitz- bergen, where the Gulf Stream is believed to impmge. It jea?ijried-bv Parry in 1827. and has been attempte d by Oaptain Koldewey, MJ; Leigh Smith, aiid liieutenantB" Payer and Weyprecht, five several times in the last few years. But the great pack of ice which trends eouth- li-i- %,v / . 4 ,'i7 .^BOPOSALS FOR A KEW EXPEDITION. 823 -ward in that direction from the Pole to the Atlantic Ocewi has uniformly baffled e-very attempt to penetrate f^f^r'f *^^^^ P^«^l«l' «^d when i^arry, S i'w '^v «^^"^ce on sledges to latitude 82°, he found that the padc was moving south more miles a day than he could travel North, and was therefore compelled to retreat. The other route, by which the new inVa^on is to be made, has been followed with considerable suocess y tae three gaUant but ill-eauipped American expedi- tions of Kane, Hayes, and Hall, m the^ years 1853, iSo, 11 i^^^' .^® approach is by Baffin Bay, which is weU known to our whalers and to a,ll our Arctic explorers, bemff tiie hierh ro«^ h^ wT,,-.>v .1,. ^^^x, ,^^^ ^JJ^ some reason, ipn part of Baf - 'the summer an bound for this ^. miles of pack •ortunity of doing so bemg the high road by which was attempted and accomplf " which has yet to be explained fin Bay, about latitude 75°, is -open sea. The explorer and w, ' North Water' have each to trt, ice in Melville Bay, but the" dppuri,uxii.y oi aomg so rarely fails a ship which arrives in the early sprmg. Sooner or later, Recording to the season, the 'Middle 1, of ice separ^B from the Mand floe' on the eastern snore, and an average passage between them of twentv- twodayscarnes the vessel into the * North Water,' where whales abound for the whaler, and a sail of 120 miles leads the explorer |o the entrance of Smith Sound Here, too, open water is found, and the PolaHs, in 1871— a pnvate ship ui|d«f Captain Hall-steamed for 250 toiles up ike strait leading to the Nortii Pole without check or obstacle of any kind, and wintered in 'Thank ^od Bay,' m latitude 81^ 38' N. If the Polar mystery is to be solved, it seemed that the Americans were about to Have the honour of solving it. But after his retusii^m ' t jiS??°^ ?^^^' '.'f ""^^^ "^1 ^igl^e^ latitude^re reached, and a milder cbmate, with much animal life, attamed, Captain Hall died suddefely from a paralytic seizure, and the expedition, somewhat unaccountably, returned with the object unaccomplished." A region of « thick-ribbed ice," tiie home of the walrus, seal, and bear, uninhabited by map, a stranger almost t6 flower and tree, whose forest giant.is the dwarf birch, a tree tiurteen mches m height, the resting-place of iceberg nffrn ° ^^'°^ ^^ wrapped in a mantle '^SSSS&r 1 ., , . ^ 8 € a« whose -sttltdifey eouate th aT^ the rocks, a spot on which for four months tiie sun never shines, wherejhe cold freezes the mercury, and the tiier- mometer m March ranges 70 below zero-auch is tha >-• Y 2 # ?* 324 PROGRESS OF ARC3T1C DISCOVERY. i ■A ( place to which two exploring ships, manned by gallant and darincT crews, are bound for the honour of their country and tie enlightenment of the world How many a brave man has perished in the search, those who would learn have only to glance for a moment at the marvellous his- tory of daiing which Mr. Clements Markham, in his book entitled "The T^ireshold of th« Unknown Region, has narrated. From the day when Stephen Burrbugh bade his friends farewell at tfce sign of the C\nstopher Inn, at Gravesend, and gtarted in a little cockboat called the fearc/.be said to have paused, but it is worthy of re- mark that during the fifteen years it had thus been actively pursued by seariietf and travellers with the then imperfect means at command, no loss of life had occurred, although there had been occasionally more than two hun- dred men at a time employed" upon these expeditions. In 1845 the subject of" AiUlic research in various branches of nq^inral science was again taken up by the Royal Society, and that year a fresh Arctic expedition was despatched by our Govemri»tit, in which there were various persons eminent in science, under the Command of Sir 3ohn Franklin. It consisted ©f two sailing ships, with auxiliary steam power of a very imperfect natiire, and both in that respect as well as ia their general equip- ment, stores, and provisioning they f«ll far short of what an Arctic e^roedition of the present day would have at command. But later resoarcbes reveal i0 us that this exptdition succeeded in making one of the -most remark- able Arctic voyages on record, jj^nd that they finished, after abandoning their ships, at a position i^r the en- trance of the Great Fish River, where, had proper fore- sight been^sxerfcised, they could easily have been rescued. Subsequent experience has shown that the fq^l omission which led to this cataHtrophe was the want of proper depots of provisions being arranged, so as to cover the escape of tne crews in the event of disaster to the shipB— a measure of prwaution which since that disaster has -' been carefully nrovided for in all 1ftf.Pir o TptMJif.mna jilways Thi id wltTrBignar success. This expedition of Sir John Frank' lin in IB45 was the last icientifio expedition sent by Great Britain into the Arctic regions. In 184^ the search for Franklin's expedition was % * 1 '* 328 PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOYEBT. •* > 7 ■ I Sressed on the Government by the pnbKc, and from that - ate up to 1(861 — a period of thirteen years — was steadily j^rsevferdd in ; no less than fourteen public and private CTpeditioHs having gone and returned during that period. - Althouj^lii' not exploratory ox scientific, but devoted to ' search -alone, they incidentally made very large additions to the geography of the North Polar area. On ttie solu- tion of the fate of Franklin's expedition in 1859, Great Britain withdrew from the field of Arctic research. Not so, however, other nations: emulous of the knowledge thus honourably gained by British enterprisev America^ Sweden, Germany, and Austria have from time to time siiice that period made efforts to reach the North Pole. The area oyer which these several exploratory expedi- - tions have been made will be seen by a reference to the circumpolai* chart in this volume. As tiK? Ministry has perceived, polar exploration has always been popiilar in Jjnglan4. Rightly or wrongly, we have a notion that the discovery of the Pole is our ^national rigi^t. Of late years,- however, we had let the matter drop, until the adventurous doings of Werprecht ' ^ and Payer in the Tegetthoff to the east of Spitzfeergen woke U8 from our lethargy, and reminded us very summa- rily that if England did not find the Pole before fiye or six years wore over, some other nation certainlv would. When we a^dd that, in spite of its hardships, Polar navi- gatioilhas always been welcome work both to the offio^rs^ and the men of our navy,- who regard the chance of a cruise in high latitudes, with a reasonable prospect of^distinc- tion, as one of the pleasantest of holidays, we snail per- haps have sufficiently explained the motivesf that have .'weighed with Her Majesty's Government. Dr. Augustus Fetermann, the celebrated German geo* grapher, m a letter to the Boyal Geographical Society on . past explorations of the Arctic Begionif, expresses his belief that, from the results already arrived at, with ap- propriate steam vessels, making use of the extensive experience gained, the Central area will be penetrated as far as the North Pole or at any other points. He also states that the disputed question as.to the proper route is clearly seltled in favour of passage through Smith Sound.-: Througn the individual labours of Dr. Petermann, con- tinued since 1865, seven small expeditions have been sent -eat? The detaik ef ii^ t he «3tpk» ationg ^imdtteted ba v « — - not been made public ; bat generally, from the interior of Greenland, in 30° W. longitude to 59° B.^ east of Spitz- bergea, a width *of iabout ninety degrees of longitude has i<«>^ OBJECTS TO BE»iTTAIN£D BY A NEW EXPEDITION. 32 1> been snrveyed. Besides this, it is now known tliat the ^N6rwegian8,,in frail fishing smacks, have circumnayi- gated Nova. Zembla, and have provfed that the Kam and Siberian Seas are for five months in %\e year open. Tne most important information, however, communicated in Dr. Petermann's letter, lies in the extracts from reports by , i ' yaptam Gray, of Peterh«ad. From observations made "in ISoSTthis navigator concludes that no difficulty would be found in carrying a vessel to the Pole by taking the ice at about the latitude of 75° (where generally exists a .deep bight), sometimies running in a north-west direction . upwards of lOO miles towards Shannon Island, thence following the continent oWjreenland as long as it i,^ • found to trefid in the desired direction, and afterwards ■ pushing northwards through the loose fields of ice which will be encountered. Captain Gray, penetrated northward again during the summer of 1874 as far as^O^^S'. At that latitude, in August, the ice was broken up, whereas fe"aown to 77°," he states, " the floes were lying whole in sea, clearly showing that the ice in 80° must have . broken up, by a swell from the north ; beyond the r)ack to the north (which I could see over), there was a tlark water sky, reaching north until lost in the distance, Anthout a particle of ice to be seen in it." ^ It has been the misfortupae of the later Arctic expeditions that all have been projected on too small a scale ; and although they have performed excellent service as pioneers, they lacked t^e completeness in organization and equip- ments necessary fbr the endurance of so long and arduous a voyage. . The long- Sought problem of reaching the Pole is at length to^be met by all the resources of engineering skil* and scientific knowledge, ip^eeence of Which thesoiutio^^ cannot be fair distant. w" ' • ' Objects to be Attained by a Nj^ Arctic Expeditiox.* The late Government acknowletfa^ in their report that *'.they cannot overlodk the pOTHo service wh^ is rendered to a maritime country, especially in tiwpof peace, by dee^s of daring enteipriefe and patient^idu- ' ranee of hardship, which excite the public sympathy^ and enlist^ the general feeling in favour of maritime advea* ^"•■e-" And Mr. Disraeli, in conBent in £ to fliA nww gy p p- Fl oition, also admils^^The importance of encouraging that spirit of maritime enterprise which has ever distinguished the English people." • The Denefats that will accrue to science are very ably ^ ■^^■4 ■s?^« 330 sppm OOBESS OP ABCTIC DISCOVERY- «? f circumst n< set fortK' by the .<|f|fcal phenp there to b,e seen, tthd<^r certain «rtr« ^ich are^J^e to tBfeel jof wie axis of the revof d whi eithei^ iii excessror defect, wiU 8ureif|^ followed ^,, the acquieitjon of knowledge, which can oiS^ be obtained|k those exceptional localities." ' P^ , Tlie §ivcce^ing ob^rvationS on the study of the Auroral? tliiSc^ar Spectrum, the results thai may be expected to ^lirftn<}e Geology, Botany, Zotflogy and Ethnology, are fle». ^^fflSi ^n a manner worthy <^ the emhient men of scidnce Mncfer whose allspices the memorandum was drawn up; .and, are convincing that, cheerless and barren as are the Arctic regions to the ordinary observer, there nevertheless,, to the skilled explorer) will be found a wide field for re- s^rch, and the promise? that his labours will worthily add to tKe sum of human knowledge. On the best ^ute to be adapted, the distinguished naval qfficers who are members ^of tBe Geographical Council, and who have carefully con- rsideyed the evidence accumulated since 1865, in a special Jbomniitteo, were unanimously of. opinion that the route iSj^ Smith Sound was thp one which should be adoi)ted, with •a view to exploring the greatest extent ofcoast ' and of thus securing the most valuable scientlffc resr :T:hc Hydropraph^ of the Navy, in his report, rei that, beat-iugin mind ^|^ailure8 of the Germaiji *=*" ft.nd A nwt .rinn pxped itj^Bl'to penetrate with thi the ice barrier betwelMKt Grepuland ^nd^ as veil as the exijeriences by Parry, in 1827, Spitzbe||en/ and the fact that the America Po/^j^.miled from Baffin Bay, through Smith to 82° 16' N., without obstruction of any kind, and / «* sswammm "i *Nrhieh have to be considered not only withp reference to the present time, bnt to the earUi's past history. It may be, ihereforo, received as certain that discoveries will be made in nil brauches of science, the exact natiire of which cannot be. anticipated. But there ^re also nij^erous "•! BENEFITS DERIVED PROM ARCTIC DISCOVERY. 331 over that it was there discovered a constant current set down . the strait, and that driftwood was f onnd on the shore, are proofs, c6mbined with other evidence adduced^ that the opening called Smith Sound is a channel with a -' con&tant cu rrent flowing southward from the unknown arga. The experience of previous Arctic voyages jJiaa* shoSvn their scientific importance and practical value. The dis- coveries of Hudson and Edge led to the lucrative Spitz- . bereen fishery, those of Davis to the fishery in the Straits which Ijear his naine ; the first voyage of Boss led the way iofr the whalers into the " North water" of Baffinr Bay, and those of Parry opened the road to Prince Re- ■ fent's IiJ^t', while the despatch of the Intrepid and Honeer, wa,B the direct cause of the introduction of sharp; bows'knd steam-power in ice jiavigation. Russian Arctic exploration opened up a valuable ivorv trade, and no Arctic voyage has been devoid of practical utiUty, either direct '- or indireet. But the scientific objects of Arctic explora- , tion are of still higher importance, especially now th%t • the value of scientific research is fully recognised, and that the duty of the State to further and assist discovery is well understood; The Arctic Committee of the Royal Geographical Society drew up the following Memorandum on the subject of the generaf scientific results to be obtcuned by ft renewal of Arctic exploration : — The results oi scientific ii^portance to be derived from an examination of the immense unknown area ro>imd the North Poloi are as numerous as the region to be explored is extensive. It may be shown that nO such extent of unknown area, in any part of the world, ever failed to yield results of practical as well as of plirely scientific value ; and it may safely be urgeid that as it is mathe- matically certain that the area exists, it is impossible that its examination can fail to add largely to tne sum of human knowledge. Further, it is necessary to bear in mind that the Pmar area^is, in many most important respects, Qi&h altiO^ether l^ial character ; affordiifg ex- clusive opportunities for obserf^dng the condition of the \ , earth's surfa^ and the j^hysical pnenbmena there to be ' > seen, xi?^dOT certain eertreme and singular circumstances, , • | which are due to the relation* of this" area to the position of the ^aris of revolgtion of the terrestrial apheroid, an d — if 332 .PROGRESS Of'aRCJTIC DISCOVERT. objects^ that have been stated and enumerated bj the Presidents and officers of the several Scientific Societies, the attainment of which make it desirable to despatch an Arctic expedition of discovery. These are as follows : — Geography . — A geographical problem of grekt impor- tanco ana interest will be solved by completing the circuit of Greenland; ascertaining the extent and nature of its northern coast, exploring the land to the westward, and discovering the conditions of land and sea in that portiok of the unknown area. Hydrography. — An- Arctic expedition is a necessary complement to the expedition now investigating the ocean bottom in the middle and southern latitudes of the ^lobe. The l^rdrography of the unknown seas has a most important bearing on the general q^uestion of oceanic currents, a question which is of practical consequence to navigation. Our knowledge of the general system of currents will be incomplete without an investigation of the currents, deep-sea temperatures, and soundings in the unknown area. Observations at great depths with' the improved instlruments now in use, would be of much value in connexion with the like observations which are being carried on by the expedition now exploring the tropical seas. Geodesy.— A series of pendulum observations at the highest latitude possible, followiiig upon the series just completed in India, and made with the same instruments after* verification at Kew, will be of essential service to the science of geodesy. Neither the data for forming a mathematical theory of the physical constitution of the earth, nor the means of testing such a theorv, are com- plete without experimental determinations of tne intensitv as well as the direction of the force of gravity, and such observations would be especially valuable at the Noi-th Pole. /' \ Meteorology. — Observations of the temperature of the sea at various depths ; of temperature and pressure of the atmosphere ; a"nd of prevailing winds, witn reference to currents, in very high latitudes, will form valuable contributions ttt meteorological science. The present state of meteorology requires a more thorough investiga- tion of the motions of the earth's atmosphere than has et been undertaken ; and for this important objecn the i ess trequented parts ot tne earth's surface snouici^ ^ studied as well as the most frequented. The climate of Europe in no small degree depends c the atmospheric conditions of the Polar area, in whicfi 8CIENTIPIC ADVANTAGES ANTICIPATED. 333^ . * the of \ Qce \ ble \ ent V \ ga- . the ' the development of extremely low temperatures necea- sanly leads to i corresponding extreme changes of pressure and other atiiiospheric disturbances, the ^ect of which IS telt tar mto the temperate zone. For the satisfactory appreciation of these phenomena, a precise knowledge of the (hstnbution of land and water within the Polar area 18 quite necessary, and any addition to our geographical knowledge of the Arctic Region, accompanied by smtable observataons of its meteorology, cannot fail to afford improved means of understanding the meteorology of our own country and of the earth generally. McMnetism and Physics.— The extension of research into the phenomena, of magnetism and atmospheric electricity, m the vicinity of the Poles, will necessarily be of much scientific importance ; and generally, so far as t^e con- ditions ot the climate and the means of an exploring expedition will permit, investigations in all branches of physics m the proximity of the Pole, where so many of the forces of Nature operate in an extreme degree, either ot excess or defect— will surely be followed by the acqui- sition of knowledge which can only be obtained in those exceptional localities. The study of the Aurora, which is among the most striking phenomena visible on our planet, 'is almost im- possible in low latitudes ; while the advance of spectni«i analysis has given the means of determining the chemical elements involved, so that all that seems required here is the means of applying this description of observation; and this can only be got near the Pole. The separation of the terrestrial lines from the truly solar ones, in the solar spectrum, as seen from the earths surface, is another important desideratum inquiry into which can only be well pursued in hi lene r(^s 18 known^ut much is needed to be done to ol mn colinpye colMfcns of their organic remains. The existehce ofjiSViie palaeozoic coal formation has leen detemtinedr WV we reqtiiro to know its extent and co rn^ s# position. One of the most interesting facts of late years acquired to geologicajjkscience has been that of a luxuriant and " w ^^^ ■ "^^t j^wj fz 334 PEOORBSS OF ARCTIC DISCOVBBY. highly organized vegetation, of Miocene age, on the eagt xjoast of Greenland ; ajM||ii|jiJ to farther on under the head of Botamf, Hpi^^P^iportance ihat ^some determinations bas,fe \ 1 I!?.- The Ifeographical distribution of iike Miocene ^ori, as inmcated by the agreements andL^differences bfl^en the Miocene plants of Arctic E^gions and lof^JKitral and Southern Europe. 'htKlation of the Miocene flora to previous and ^Squent vegetations, and its bearings on the •esent geographical distribution of plants on the 3 The evidei?^ derived from these- plants as p the ' ' physical %ndftions of the globe in past geological It is certain tiiat additional Ipcalittes f or fo^ plants will be discoveredj and of necessity additioM and for evidence of ancient connexion ^?7^!1 ^""^^^and and Scandinavia; for observations on the temperature, direction, and depth of transporting currents in these seas, and on the habits of its ruminant migratmg animals, that may have influenced the distri- bution of the vegetation by transporting tha seeds. Such tacts as those of the existence of ancient forests in what are now Arctic regions, and of ihe migration of existing florro over lands now bound fas^ in perpetual ice. appear to^me naturahsts to call for ^raster changes than can be brought about by a redisposition of the geographical limits ofland and sea, and to afford eviden'ce of changes in the direction of the earth's axis to the plane of its ^J^J*'. and perhaps of variations in the ellipticity of the It has thus been eW thg^a,ch interest attaches to the Greenland flora, which Wf^rom being exhausted. And besides these general |«g^ons, there are olhers respecting specific subjects, of Which our existing know- minute forms of vegetable life which swarm in Pohir areas, aff-ordmg food to the cetacese and other marine animals, and which colour the surface of the ocean and !i T-rn-nrrvr^wi^^M 338 PROaBESB OP ARCTid J>HSCOVERY. ■^ its bottom likewise. Many of these forms are common to the Arctip hnd Antarctic seas," and hav« actually ' been far better studied in the latter than m the former sea. Of land plants the lichens and mosses require much . further collection asnd study, and the Arctic marine flora #18 most imperfectly known. Ample'coUections ©^flower- ing plants should be made with a view" of testing the , variability of species and their distribution, and observa- tions on the means of transport of land plants by winds, currents, ice, and migrating animals^ are very m:tt, are-numerews^and important. It is now known that the Arctic Ocean teems with life, and that of the more mmut.> ' organized beiUgs the multitude of kinds is pr(^igiou8 ; these play a most important part, not only m the «conomy of organic nature, but in the formation of sedimentary deposits, which in future geological periods will become incorporated with the rock formations; whose structure has only lately been explained by the joint labours 6t zoologists and geologists. The kinds of these animals, the relations they bear to one another, and to the larger animals (such as whalsK seals, &c., towards whose food they so largely contnbute). the conditions under which they live, the depths they inhabit, the changes of form, Ac, at diff'eront seasons ot thA year, apd at difl'erent stages of their lives; and, •lafe%, their distribution according to geographical* areas, warki and cold Currents, &c., are all aubjectB of which very little is known. . ,!'*;' \ * i WithTegiird to the fish, moUusca, ec m nQdermata, Cdrals. sponges, v^., of the Arctic zones, tKB of Greenland alone liave been explored with anythfflpapproachmg to 8ati9fao%)ry results. .A knowledge of their habits and habitats is most desiderated, as are good specimens Tor our museums. More important still would bo anatomical' an d.phy Biological investigatiomj, and observations on those animals under theifnatural conditions. With regard to the migrations of birds, Professor Newton, of Cambridge, has drawn attention to ^t|v> intewstiiJjj queritions which will be solved by an examina- tioitt of* the unknown area. *' The -tthi H -Btf ^ ef th^^ B«fiitth. lulauda, and of many otJijM: countriefj in the northoni lioniispkTc, aro anntijilly, for a longer or shorter period, frequented by a coutttliW, mul- titude of birds, which, there is every reaSo^j tp^ WUcve i: '♦. tn 3SS v ZD0L0G1CA"L QUESTIONS TO BE SOLVED. *'S9 OO! i'esort in sumAier to very high northern latitudes, for . purposes the ihost important, and, since they continue -the practice year after year, they must find the migration conducive to their advantage. Thereto ust be somi water ^ which 13 not alwavg^frozeh; second^, ther0 must be some land on which theV may set their feet ; and, thirdly, there ^ must be plenty of food supplied either by the witer^r by the land, or by both, for th«ir nourishment, and that ot-thmr pr(^eny>; > ' Professor liewton has InjTiished a short account of the movements of one class ^f birds-the Knots-Trtn^a Ganutu% of ornithologists. The kndt is something half- way between a snipe and piover. Examples of it are ♦k""?^"!^ ^ ^ T''^''' *^^ ^8^« ** *^e southern end of th^sh-house m tte Zoological Gardens, and may be seen t^ ftt the present time, like many ot^r kinds of birtts belonging to the same group, the colour of its . plumage vanes mo^ wonderfully according to the season ot <^e year. In summer it is of a brighthrick-red; in ISif"" I '' **^ * ^f^^ ashy.grey. Kept i,, confinement, it. seldom assumes itamost brilliant tints, but some ap]>roach to thefti IS generaUy made. Kowthe knot comes to this country m vast flock&^in spring, and, after remaining on * •" ^S*^^ '*^*7 i^ »««» southwards. . . ^iSi.n!^fc southwards U5o, tUl the foilo^^ing Hpring. , V\^t has 'B«(»n said of the knot in the Uuiiod Kingdom > m oquallrtrue 6f it on the eastern shores 6f the ifnited ^ •States. Thorn it appe a rs i n t ,^. > -m i nd a^mii d au w a nd at * :l "IKe sarao seasons as with uh. and its oWt^u^ptiU seem t<^ bq rogulatqd by tho^samu causes. • * *. ^Henco we nuur fairly infer that i/ho'knds visite middle of summer «r« le(# sten|b thivn rcelkiid T-T7-?— TTl- *.■# ■ 4- • \ ^J> <^ '^t^ '^"'^ ^'"'•oVTfe f,i t 340 PROQKESS dp ARC3TI0 DI8C0VEBT. or Gr^nland, or it would hardly pftss over those countries, wliich are known to fee the breeding-places of swarmS of water-birds, to resort tp regions worse off ^s regards supply of food. But the supply of food mfust depend chmY on the climate. The inference necessfiinlY is that, beyond the northern tracts already explored, there is a reiion which enjoys in summer a chmate rmore gemal thdn they possess. It would be easy to summon more instances from the same group of birds, tei^ng to sho^ that beyond a zone where a rigorous sumn^r reigns there^ mar be a region endued with a comparatively favourable/ cUmate. H so. surely the condition^ whic^ produce aucl a climate are worth investigating. / .,,.,, Ethnology. —The knowledge already Quired of the Arctic regions leacls to the conclusion that the discovery ■of the uSnown portion of the Greenland coasts will yi^ld very important results in the science of knthropology.J Light may not improbably be thvo^ upon the myste- rious wanderings of ttiose northern tribes, traces of which .are found in every bay and on every ca^rn the oheeriess VpluTy group, as weU^^as up to the furtiier pomt that/has been reached beyond Smith Sound ; knd these waMer- in«8 may be found to be the most dis^t waves of storms rawed in far-off centres, and amoi^ other races. Many circiimstanGes connected Vdth the gtiU unknown northern tribes may tend to elucidate such inquiries. There are other investigations w|iich would undoubtedly field v&luabte materials for the student of man. Such would be carefully prepared notes on the skuMs. the features, the stature, the dimtosions of limbs, th^ intel- lectual and moral state of individuals belonginfg to a hitherto isolated and unknown t^be; also on tl^eifreh- «iou8 ideas, on their superstition*, laws, JanguagJ, songs, and traditions; on their weapons M methods of hunting; and on their skill in delineating^ the topographjy of the retrion within the range of their yrandenngs. I . ^e condition of an isolated l^nbe. deprived of the use of wood or metals, and dependei^ entirely upon bone and stone for^ihe construction of aU implenitjuts an^ utensils, is also ft subject of study with refere^ce to the , condition of mankind in the stone a«e of the world ; and a carefiil comi)arison of the former, as reported by «^p1J^'^»'.3 the latter, as deduced from the contents ot tiimuli and taucein caves, wilTpfobaBly MW gwal impui ment ot the science of man. - ^* ^ fc_ ^• As one of the objects of the voyage of «ie Mw Ixpedi- tion is scientific research, a former precedent has so tar a;j!«3e»TKS-3?;!s^»BSBrsajSS!W!^P^^g^^^l mmmm BOUTE TO ^ ADOPTED. 341, been departed from that a skilled naturalist is to be received in ciach ship, and instruments and appliances of investigation of every branch of science provided. \ Science has done much to facilitate such an undertak- ing since the days of Parry and Franklin, and she will doubtless be ennched by the results of an expedition so thoroughly equipped as the present is. The Boute to be adopted by the Expedition op 1875. As the full scientific results of Arctic exploration can only be attained on and near the land, the route by bmith Sound is undoubtedly the best that could be chosen. There alone the land is known to extend, in a northerly direction, far into the unknown area; so that A ^^fP^y* geology, meteorology, botany; zoology, and ethnology of an extensive new tract can be investi- ' gated ; Vhile the currents, deep sea temperatures, and characters of the fauna of the adjacent seas can also b« ascertained. Onr^ knowledge respecting the navigability of the lonjr strait leadmg north from Smith Sonlid has hitherto been very defective, as Captain Inglefield did not pass the en- trance, and Drs. Kane and Hayes wintered only a few miles withm it. But the report received from the boat's crew of the Polaria furnishes additional information of great importance. We now know that the American vessel commanded by Captain Hall pass(^ up the strait m one working season for a distance of 250 n*ies without a^ check of any kind, making fat. 82° 16' N. ; and that at her tnrthest point the sea was still navigable, With, a water sky to the northwards. ^ The Pokms was a mere river steamer of^^imall power and ill adapted for ice navigation, with a crew all told of only about twenty-five men. If she conld Aiake «uch a voyage ^thout difficulty, it may ftvirly be anticipated that J properly equipped EiigUsh expedition under eqjlally tavourable circumstances will do more. Another very important feature in the voyage of the Poh^ is the fact that she was safely drifted out into Baffin Bay from a high northern position in the Strait. This -proves tha* thd Moertained current keeps the ice in molioi carhei it south, thus preventing any. interruption f'^y^gafaon. The safety of the Governmflnt wyi ' es l-hair thusaMured. JH'or it is quite clear Idiai the daggers of the Arctic regions are, in most instances, the «lirect con- sequences of despatching in-equipped and inadequately V' a . '' i, ':#> 342 PllOGKESS OP ARCTIC DISCbVERY. *4 -±M supplied vessels with undisciplined crews. The really unavoidable dangers are thoroughly understood, and most of thfto can be obviated by modem appliances and ex- p(|ri©ii^. Two vessels stationed at suitable distances cdhlA keep up communications with each other, and. with the whalers which annually frequent the " north water " of Baffin Bay; while, under th§ most unforeseen and improbable contingency, a safe retreat>sW0ul(| always be kept open* , • * There is a third feature in the voyage of the Polaris which strengthens the argument in favour *f exploration bj Smith Sound. At the wipiter <]^uarters, in 81° 38' N., tne climate was milder than it is further south, arid animal life abounded, including musk oxen. This account corroborates that of pr. Hayes, who was able to supplj- his men with plenty of fresh provisions in the less ^lospi- table region near the entrance of Smith Sound. The Government expedition, with properly organized himting parties, will be able to obtain considerable- 3applie8 of freah meat, and thus add to theprospect of maintaining tie men in health and vigour. Imder such circumstances there is no healthier climate, than that erf the Arctic regions. . «« ^, . - Such, then, is the plan of the campaign. The Alert and the Discovery will start in company at the end of May. The two vessels will proceed together to Disco, in 7(f N., wherer they will take in coal, and where a supply of ski%e dogs and i^squimaux dog-drivers will . akfMt them. From Disco they will steam northward with all speed, skirting Melville Bay and the middle pack, until th«y arrive at the mouth of Smith Sound, where they will erect a cairn, and deposit in it records of, their , voyage. Thence they are to make their way np Smith Sound by way of Kane Basin, Kennedy Channel, Hall Basin, imd Eoteson Strait.^ The seoona ship, however, the Dincovenf, will not be jpushed past South Fiord and Lady Frankliii Bay^ either of wliich wiU furnish compa- ratively safe winter quarters. There it w;as, in Thank God Bay, a little to the north of South Fiord, that the Pokm$ wintered in 1871. It is officially stated— " The general designW the voya^fe diould'be tibat while botli ships would share as &r as possible in the obiects of discovery and exploration, oi» must be so placed that «he wonld not only wm"- W tW rrffvr o^A h e .>thprt l.f all back upon, but alsQ that the unitad orews could, without doobt, ftteape from her to the relief ship at the entranc« of Smith Sound by means of their »Mgm md boi^ts over tha it*. '^?S.' *. •■ k*. <* ADVANTAOXS OF SMI^H SOUNO. I <;!onBequently, the second ship must nbtTse carried nortt- ward of the 82ri3. parallel ; such a position would secure" this most important object, t he uar allel of akni i , H2\ the hii^ieii point /et reached^ with comparatively well-deter- ram^ poi|»t«;w^ere records of ti^ progreas of the oxpedi- lTOi|%sald W dffppsite^ find' depUn of provisioni placed^ .. '•' Miiirriiii .III III 344 x/'^ ^/^^t>tf '- r«^ ■■ S OP ARCTIC? DISCOVERT. *7« ./ if necessary. There are likewise the Danish settlements on the west side of Greenland to fall back upon by boats, shotild the expedition be hard pashed, and the steam' whalers frequent a high latitude m Baffin Bay every summer. " This route, moreover, offers the best — ^indeed, the only —promise of a continuous coast-line stretching far north- wards, and upon this fact the prospect of reaching the Pole by travelling parties mainly depends. It is the only witijfee^Bo far as our knowledge extends, where the opera- tional of an expedition can be confined within such hmits "^:at succour would be reasonably certain of reaching it. " Finally/ animal liPe has been found to exist tor a eon- ^sderable extent in the highest latitude yet reaiolred up ^mith Sound — an advantage which cannot be over-esti- mated as regards the healtn and comfort of the crewa|I and, as a matter of fact, Esqaimaux ^.re found up to thl^ e;itrance of Smith Sound, who appear to have a knOW- • ledge of regions to the northward, and it is posa&le that some of their race may be found to exist in a h%her lati* tude than has yet been attained!" The vessels will, taking the usual route of Baffin Bay,- endeavour to pass up Smith Sound. Here, probably m 81° or 82° N. lat., if siach a position can be reached, one- ship will leave the other, and if so the remaining one will find plenty to occupy the explorers in 1876 in the exami- nation of the north coast of (Greenland, and here the ship wiU probably rismain for further orders. Captain Nares will probably endeavour to push northwaras in the Alert, and should the two ships winter apart, thev tsill use their best exertions to communicate with eacn other in the spring of 1876. As the expedition is provided with an unlimited Bupply of all that is necessary, with vessels stout and strong, they need n.ot fear even the dangers of thp crossing from the Devil's Thumb to Cape York— viz., as they pass up Smith Sound to the region which knows naught of^human traveller or animal wanderer, where vego^tion exists not and life is extinct, in ar sea too cold for whales abd too t%htly congealed even for tire pachydermatous seal, they may yet be full of hope, for tBfev are sons of a sea-daring natysn, which reck^ nothing of tne fears of the mysterious a^d the dread ol the unlcnown. Ever since the old l i fu s covy Company sent fu t th Up gutllani Httik >f»^4a ltttlg= boats scared fit for river service to explore the mysterious rfegions of the North, the great idea of the, national name hiM'been to reach the Pole, and solve the doublr which- >■!; v.. ml \. .«j ■'/^•^.i BOaTE TO BE ADOPTED. S45 BTirronnd it. Barentz, Hudson, Poole, Fotherby, Wood» Gilles* Scoresby, Phipps and Buchan only failed because the i^eans at thje^ir hand were not calculated for such perilous and ardjiiOus work. Those who followed have done sterling service, have laid down charts and spread the way for a grind final effort. Such an effort is^ now being made in thje name of a nation whose right to have a flag on the Pote,r Sea, is demonstrated by lbs ability to hbist one on every other. Admiral Richards, in a paper " On the Boute towards the Pole for the l^Jjcpedition of 1875," read before the Royal Geographical Society on the 8th of February,. 1876, pointed out thcit the Society had persisted through long and weary years, and under much discouragement, in urging the revival of Arctic discovery, and perhaps to na inoividual were they so much indebted fpy ^guceess as to their Secretary, Mr. Clements Markham. Arctic enter- prise had always been popular in this countiy, and had the same attractions for Englishmen as those El Dorados of Mexico and the Indies held out to our Southern neigh- bours. He would not inquire too closely into the cause of this, but doubtless honour and ambition had their share. He always thought a good deal of misapprehen- sion existed in the minds of many intellij^ent persons, and of the pubHc generally, as to the position we have occu- pied in regard to Arctic exploration during the last half of the present century. As a matter of fact, we had not sent oiit any exploring expeditions for the last thirty years, nor had they made any serious attempt but one to reach the Pole, and that was Parry's attempt in 1827 by Spitzbergen. The previous series of brilliant voyages, inclu^in^ that of Franklin in 1846 in the same direction, were revivals of the .old furore to accomplish the Nwth- West Passage. Had FrankHn returned moderately suc- cessful, his expedition would have been followed by a similar one in the direction of tiie Pole ;' but owing ta the unfortunate results of that voyage, it wearied out the nation, and it was not to be wondered at that, so far as this country was concerned, Arctic enterprise 8lej)t for so long a time. But still some peril must always be incurred itt^ new enterprise, and the sacrifice in this case was large because the experiment was a great one. It was perfecuy well understood why the crews of the IBrehus and Teiror pariahed; but they had learnt ^mneh since that time, aad- it was impossible that, to a certain extent, the same dangers would a ride as formerly. No service >^hatever^ he was of opinion, was more faithfuUy carried oat than II U6 PROGRESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVERY. the search for Franklin. The commanders of those expe- ditions had a delicate task to perform, and each, ^d his best, according to- his ability. There ^as no clue to fol- low; all went westward, and so far as they knew that was the right direction ; and bnt for the discovery bv Dr. Rae, in the memorable journey which he undertook in 1854, the fate of these men mi^ht have, remained a mystery still. Aided by his own instincts, M'Olintock and his companions finally solved the mystery, and the details of the voyage of the little Fox, fitted out by Lady Franklin, are too well known to require further com- With regard to Smith Sound, its longitude and the accurate delineation of its shores matters little; all that wo are concerned to know is that it is found a navigable channel for ships, and it is the route which the expedition is instructed to follow. , ., , . .1 The exploration to the north will be hmited by the Pole, not 500 miles from the assumed position of the vessel of the second m command, and the exploration by ship east and west will be circumscribed ; when it w added that part of the design is that another ship shall visit Smith Sound in 1877, should th§ exp^ition not have previously returned, it will be admitted, that aJl which human foresight can, devise will have been done to insure success and to secure safe .retrep.t. While, however, we must not forecast, we may be permitted to speculate on the nature of the land or sea which lies be- yond the 82nd parallel, though, perhaps, w^, shall beT treading on delicate ground. . i,jvx We know that, from the Pola^ area mcluded between the meridian of Spitzbergen on the ea«t and MelviUe Island on the west, ft constant current or dnft sete to the southward, through Smith Sound, through Wellin^on Channel and the channels' west of it, through Feel . Sound and Prince Regent's Inlet: that it sweeps with crreat violence through Hecla and Fury Straits, and also through Hudson Strait, and down the coa«t of Labrador. This is the current which forced the ice on King William s Land, and prevented the release of the Erehus and le^ror, which carried the abandoned Beeohite out ot Barrow btrait into the Atlantic, and which, in the month of ivij or A u gust, annuallv clears the ice out of Smith Sound, upless ^^nocfiOcOTd^nBsKuW^SiffiSHe^rSrTO^ reason to prevent it. The inference to be drawn from these and other cireiimatanceB is, that there is no con- tinent or great mass of Jani in the Pt^ar axea north «t •*/- ■^ .'»i(r»eE::gji»yj>F %f DIFFICULTIES TO BE BKCOUl^EBSD. 34t ^Greenland or the Parry Islands, and it is" somewhat strengthened, though perhaps not materially, by the fact that Sir Edward Belche|^ his voyage, saw no land to the north, from a considlwble elevation on North Cpm- wall, neither did his travelling parties in their journeys westward in about the same latitude. At any rate, on the existence or absence of continuous land to the north of Smith Souhd, or of an archipelago, sudi as the Party group, must depend the operations of a ship after leaving this position. If navigable water, or partially navigable water is found, it is possible that short work may be made of reaching the Pole; if con- tinuous lan4 IS found, along the shores of which sledges can travel, a very hi^h latitude, or probably the Pole, may be reached m this way; but if continuous land, or nearly continuous land, is -not met with, all Arctic travel- lers know that the distance to be accomplished by sledges aiid boats combined is a very limited one, but we should not wish to be ^llsund6rstood m this remark. Travelling by boats alone during the autumn, when there are occaswnal leads of water, and before the young ice has began to make m September, is not .difficult nor so dangerous as ship navigation. XI,- h ^^^^ certain that^no great and noble enterprise of this kmd can ever be sent forth without resultmg not onlym material advantage, but without adding greatly to the sum of human knowledge, and so advancing the cause 01 truth. ... Som^ of those who have bedn the strong advocates of Arctic discovery haye, perhaps unoons^^y; been led to underrate or toake light of the taskwHch lies before the leader of this expedition ;»bu,t it is very certain that, under the most favourable conditions, skill and perseverance in no ordinary ddgree, and the united efforts of all, will be neces- sary to insure success, even moderate success ; and it is equally certain that conditions have been 'met with, ahd mav be met with again, which will baffle all human skiU and defy all human effort, Nothing is. so uncertain as ice navigation : tha best laid schemes may be frustrated, ajad a whok oaasoi lost, by the accident, for instance, of the.wmd hanging in a. particular quarter fdga couple of days during a critical time. ' ^o ^Pg^^ffort canforce a sjiip any distanee through le could be" iDrced" \r ^O© -of^ TOT5 any -r— - , through the crust of the earth. If^ she cannot Wjach Within such a distance of the Pole aa will enable. th6 journey to be acoomjilished by tr^|||^* parties in a ^ . Ill v^ I •* 348 ^root ▲BCnC DISCOVERT. flven number of Maji^lSlfoTt success, so far as rea6iimg • ohe Pole is coBoerned, \vili iidt be obtained ; but wejjfe very far fro«t 'thinking that tbe success of tb^ expedHPr depends on reaching the Pole, or evffli a very h%h northern latitude. Briefly we may epitomize what Mr. Markham has to tell us on the history of Smith Sound and Kennedy Channel in his recent work, " The Threshold of the Un- known Eegion." Passing up Davis Straits, off the south- west shores of Greenland, into Baffin Bay, vessels that wish to push their way farther north are met by what is termed the " middle pack"— a dense body of ice floating about in Baffin Bay, and through which it would be very difficult and dangerous for a vessel to attempt to make its way. But although the middle papk cannot be crossed, it can be very successfully skirted, and for seve- ral years past the steam whalers of Dundee and Peter- head have been in the habit of skirting the coast of Greenlaiid, keeping the pack w tween Greenland on the east and Grinnell Land op. the west. Smith Sound is comparatively easy work for a strong vessel. Whether the Polar pack cannot^ find itb^ way down so narrow a channel, or whether from some- other as yet unknown cause oi*. causes, it is certain that, as far as is at present known, there is every reason to believe that a strong, well-found vessel could push her way up Smith Sound as far as 83° or 84° N., or even fur- ther. Of this we have the best possible presumptibn. afEorded us by the extraordinory success of the Polaris.. This vessel w:as simply a little wooden,river g^unboat of 387 tons, »ud the most striking fact connected with her voyage iFtfastTn Aug u8 t, 'i&71,t»fafr steamed from Gape Shaokle-= ton to her extreme nprthem point up Smith Sound in 82° 16' N. in five days, and even ^hen was only stopped by loose masses of floating ice, through which a more il % wmesi%m 4 THE UNKNOWN BEOION TO BB EXPLORED. 349 T)0#ijfful vessel could easily have forced her way. From inis point Hall made his way with sledges thirty miles further due north, and found the s^a still navigable, with * water sky to the northward. More than this, he found a steadv current setting down from the Pole, and bring- ing with it masses of Siberian driftwood. The presump- tion obviously is that a more powerful vessel, such as the Alert; which is a large steam sloop of 751 tons, and 100 horse power, built for the Royal Navy, and now specially strengthened for the Arctic service, will be able to cut her ^sa^e through the floes that blocked the path of the Folcme, and to make good her way some^HBiiles fur- ther to the north. If the Kttle Polaris coul^Bive davs". make 82° 16' N. without interruption, tSSe is every reason to hope that the Alert may be able to cut her road some 200 miles further, and she will then be within 300 miles of the Pole itself. Now Parry, with ill-found sledges, and under considerable difficulties and disadvan- tages; accomplished a northward journey of 172 miles 0^6' tlie Polar pack, and so returned to the Hecla in 61 days. There is, consequently, no reason to doubt but th^the present expedition, if only it can force the Alert s^ciently faa" towards the north during th^ Bummer of 1875, will have a fair prospect of arriving at the Pole' itself either on sledges in the spring of Sie following ^^' ®' ^T ^^®^K® ^^ boat operations in the summer. The unknown region practically lies beyond 80° lat., for although various expeditions have pushed far further than this, the vast area, as a whole, is totally unex- plored. Looking at the map, we see that Greenland stretches away to the Pole for an undiscovered distance. On the other hand, the northern coasts of Asia and Amenca lie between 70° and 80° lat., and consist, as far asisknown^of an irregular ^^Coast line, studded with an archipelago of islands of various feize. As to what occu- pies the small inner circle, bounded by 90° lat., all is at present the merest conjecture, save that the driftwood picked up by |^e PplaHa at her furthest north would pomt to the conclusion, that there is a free water communication, somehow; ' between Baffin Bay and the northern coasts of Siberia. We complete the picture bv adding that the Polar ice extends more or less com- pletely down to 70° lat., or even further, according to the B f^fl'S OU T — ■ . --^ ^ . ' . To this unknown region there are, aS the map shows at once, and as Mr. Clements Markham points out, only three possible approaches, through the wide ocean be- \ ' IK w^i^^^^mmm ^^ i fF - n * V. V ^^r^ H -f . » F^ .;• 1 I t * ,«9« • 'i . ft • ^ 1 1 - -;-:V; ^ ^ u ' » t- "x/ f IM/fGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) ■ . V ■- '4 >' n *i 1.0 1,1 ua lU 12,2 m 11-25 il.4 1.6 i'-l >■ Sciences Corporaaon >^^ *4. as WIST MAIN &TRHT , WIMTH.N Y 14510 (716) •73-4503 '^ ■■P fc- ^ C^' to m^.~> L^ l/j y. /- m I ■ <; / 350 PROGRESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVERT. tween Norwiiy and Gr^erxland, througli Davis Stmta and Baffin Bay, and through Behring Straits— " one wide portal and two narrow ones." The route bv Behring Straits may be at once dismissed as impracticable. Those who take an interest in the subject will find in Mr. Cle- ments Markham's volume a full account of all that i* known of the coast of New Siberia. Any attempt to reach the Pole by it is out of the question. The bergs here are larger than anywhere else, and come roUmg (iown, aftd crashing up against one another with iB°fe ^ccompUshed ; whilft the S^! ployed seek Arctic service as the most popular emDlovment in the navy The circumstance thatfor^Le ye^s piTthe ordmary saahng whaler to Baffin Bayiias been eut^v superseded by tie fojtified steamship, and that since S2 transition no fatal accident has occurred, but tlatthes^ vessels jjnuaUyrea<5h a high northern latitude in pur! suit of their calling, and return with ease and safety is ^'^j^^^^/^^^o^ficance of which cannot be overstated. ' mif *^?"0T"^g 18 a list of ships, comprising Govern- ment and private expeditions. British an^ foreign, which «^^I!te'i^^''i*vP^°"''^.^'^^«^»*^^ the Arctic Circle Xe1r«w« nf^i w'i '''^f'^T r^^- I* ^1 b« ««en that the crews of all these Vessels h%Ve returned in safety to their respective countries, with only such loss of lifZ-as might well have occurred had the men stayed at home :— ' n^' *?^'o 1849.— Her Majesty's ship Enterpriu, Sir J C Boas One winter, twenty-five days in Melvilfo DaT^^ ■^^^• Ontww ♦*^^;'^J^®^^*i®^*y'« «^^'P /"««<4^tor, Captain Bird mZ?^wI^ll'^l\^^^l ^° ¥«'^"'« Bay. Se^en deaths (on^ 3. 1849 to I860.- Her Majesty's ship North Star, Mr Saundenk wintel^'•?h«I5lX*^''^'P^••'*^^°^^^ Three wiL'^-if^ia^nro&r''^'^^^^ ''-^"^ wint«r^";;;^*ili^*^^-*y^, ,^'^IP ^'*'^«'«' Captain Austin. One 8 18iS^Hruy'^''.^^^ri""^^ One death (accident). r». JL-f?" *5'¥*J^**y* »^'P ^«s/«{!^''f?y / 354 PROGRESS or ARCTIC DISCOVERT. One w^ter. Two 17. 1861.--achooner PHnce Albert^ Mr. Kennedy. No death. " " «.-«■«<. 18 1852.— Her Majesty's ship Ateittance, Sir E. Belcher, winters, thirty-eight "days in Melville Bay. No.death. , 19. 1852.— Her Majesty's ship iJeso^Mfe, Captain Kellett. Two wintert, thirty-eight days in Melville Bay. Abandoned. Two deaths. *^ , :% n -l. 20. 1852.— Her Majesty's ship Pkmeer, Oommander Osborne. Two winters. No death. -r..^ ' ^ ■^,r^^• x i 21. 1852.— Her Majesty's ship Intrepid, Lietltenant Jtt'CUntock. Two winters. No death. ,r t> « m 22. 1862— Her Majesty's ship North 5tor, Mr. Pnllen. Two winters, thirty-eight days in MelvUle Bay. Three deaths. . 23. 1852.— Steamer Isabel, Captain Inglefield. No detention in Melville Bay; summer cruise. , - ,j -kt- 24. 1853.— Her Majesty's sMp PJumix, Captain Inglefield. Nine days in Melville Bay; summer cruise. 25. 1864.— Her Majesty's ship Phoenix^ Captain Inglefield. Took the pack— thirty days ; summer cruise, j ^ . , , , „ 2^ 1854.— Her liajesty's ship TaUiot, Captain Jenkins. Summer 27., 1855.— -^drance. (American brig), Dr. Kane. Two winters. Took the pack— ten days. Three deaths. „ . ^ j, ^ 28. 1857.— Steamer Fox, Captain M'Olintock. Two winters ; first winter in pack, second season through in niuo days. Three died. ■ 29. 1860.— Schooner United States, Dr. Hayes. One winter, two days in Melville Bay. One death (accidehtj. 80, 1871.— Steamer Polaris, Captam HalL Two winters, no de- tention in Melville Bay. One death. « .^ 31. 1872.— Steamer Tegetthof, Lieutenant Payer. One winter. 82. 1873.— Steamer Juniata, Lieutenant Merriman. No detention inMelville Bay; summer cruise. o ' —i 83. 1878.— Steamer Tigress, Captain Greflti. Summer cruise. Fonsentage of deaths to people employed 1*7. « General Instructions Given. The abips should proceed to Disco, in Greenland, where they -would touch, as well as at the settlements of Proven and Upemivik for dogs, Esquimaux drivers, &c., and then pass up to Smith Sound in the prosecution of the enterprise. -r i ii j *i Both shores in the vicinity of Capes Isab^Ja and Alex- ander should be exanjined, in order to select" a suiteble position for the depAt pr relief ship to be despatched in 1877 ; but as such a position cannot be absolutely deter- mined on beforehand, and it is necessary to decide where information will be found W any ship which may be sub- Boqn a ntly flo ^t- ft»4^ fmm Engl au d . T < yt.t>elton Island, in our oSnionTmeets all the requirements of a fixed point for rendezvous. Here a; oonspiouous oaim should be erected ; one record placed in the 'cairn, another laid be- \ a, Mnp OEsrsnAL nrsTBucnoKS giyev. 35^ Sid© it, aad^a third buried twenty feet due north of il^ and such informatiDn as mav be nP^^or^V^ *i:^^ "^ nil J P" i^^^ *■••" proceed np Smith Sonnd with caima, and atter the same method as describo*? fny +ul S^ri^^'^?.^."?}?- Thecommandr^.'^^^" to bear m mind, that these records of his proeress kna p.arty would naturaUy be directer A sm^uS^ft^^ vmons and a boat might also be advantageously Ifc SaS or'^ a1/ w\P"^^^^^« eiti^erTr e^^ ^^es or to aid in the event of an abandonment'of ^ ^e general design of the voyage should be thaf wl,;u both ships would fare as far as fosL^^ki theobtecW discovery and exploration, one Cst be To^S^th^t she. would not only serve for the crew of the SSko^l back upon, but also, that the united ci^ws^^d Uhout oft^r^itrr ^T^'* ^ *^« ^««^^ ship atXeSSn^ over t^L? ' ^^ ""'"^ "^ '^'^ ^Ws and Sate wiS ofirSS'**"^ '?f ?^ '^P °^^«* '^^^t ^ <^ed north, ward of the 82nd parallel, such a position would secure Sis most important object, and also afford every nrosnect^ exploration into very high latitudes. ^ ^ ^^^^ "** - !,«, -S f^*®"" 21 *^® "^^^^^^ 8ho'« may be selected for Junes' o?^^ a^ording to circumJtanc^: T^'j. vantages of the former are, that animal life has been hi wo„'S'*il^T throughout the winter, andXtlhe ^Zko "* be favourably pkced for exploring the ?L^ ***™ ^^''''^ " ^°^'^' **n»ay. in the judgmentof ^officer m command, affoni i couiterbalandnfXaS! tN?e.m the greater faoihty and security of conSnwiica> A A 2 (. M. m^t lAfli >» 856 * PBOGRISS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY. tion betwee^ tte ships, and their co-operation in subse- nuent operations; thispoint must, therefore, be 1^ to him to decide; if he slionld select the western shore, then he wonld be careful to leave S record on the eastern side of the probable position of the second ship ; and in the absence of apy conspicuous caarn, a ship or party visiting the bay wintered in by the Polarts, in about 81° 35^north, would naturally seek the position of Hall s grave, where, and at twenty feet due north of it, records would be expected to be found. The commander of the second ship, w;herever placed, would follow such instructions as he received on parting company; . or subsequently, from the officer commandmg It^sLuldX* a matter for consideration, ^hether, before parting, the leader would leave a depdt of som^ six months' provisions with the second ship, m the event of his own crew having to retreat; but time and circum- stances mupt govern his decision on this point. • Having assured himself of the safety of^hia second ship, and increased his own crew by such portion of hers as \e may deem necessary to enable him to accomphsh a sledging attempt to reach the Pole, this bemg the m^a featurl of his voyage, and also the^expjoration of5 his share of the coast line extending northwards, the leade/ of the expedition should then push on nortiiward, and explore by ship as much of the ^?\t»«^ .f^^ *« -ft^ season anS the state of theace would permit. But it is not contemplated that the two ships abould ^nter at a greater distance apart than aboul 200 miles ; and the officer in command, if he advance with hi8 ship beyond that point in 1875, should use his best endeavours to re- turn Nvithin the 200 miles distance, or the case may arise, in which it may be even wise to reioSn his consort and umte their forces for exploration m the spring and ^"Sld the ^vance ship, after leaving her consort, carry continuous, or nearly contmuous land up «> a tugli northeiin latitude, the officer in command should avail Slmseli of opportunities to land small dep6t6 of provisions at intdrvals, with cairns and records as^ already de- scribed; and also to deposit at the most northern station, ad£p6tof provisions and a boat, for his sprmg travei- 4Hf fn^e absence of continuouTland, it must not WW sight of that sledge travelling has never yet been found practicable over ^y considerable extent of unenclosed t, . %" OENEBAL INSTEUCTI0N8 GIVElf. 337 frozen sea, although conditions may be found to exist which would enable parties to travel for limited distances by sledge and boat operations combined, and for this purpose.the best boats and sledges that can be devised have been supplied. The leader having increased his own crew by such portions of the crew of the second ship as he may deem necessary, it is expected that he will have -at least six strong sledge parties and four dos sledges. , In earlv spring his sledge explorajbion will commence, and all these parties should be employed h. the first in- stance to push out the North Pole party (which should be provided with at least one boat), and upon return trom this work, some weeks later, the parties for the exploration of the coast lines should be sent out. It must be left to the officer in command to furnish ample instructions to his second, especially in regard to the explorations to be undertaken by him during the spring and summer of 1876, should the ships winter apart ; ajid m this event, the first consideration should be, m the autumn of 1875, or early spring of 1876, to ascertain their respective positions; tnis, unless under very unfavourable conditions, would be probably accom- plished bv dog parties, without interfering much with the objects of exploration. In connexion with this subject the leader should bear in mind the necessity of giving such instructions as would govern his proceedings in the event of this proving to be a final separation. It will be iiiipossible to give any positive or detailed in- stfttctions for the guidance of the officer in command of the expedition after quitting his consort, further than that he should use his best endeavourfi to rejoin her in the navigable season of 1876, and in compaiSy with her return to England, provided his spring exploration has been reasonably successful. But in the event of •anotheT season being absolutely required to complete a reasonable amount of exploration, still it will be a matter for his careful consideration, whether it would not be advisable tjiat the advance ship should fall back towards her consort from any advanced position she may have wmtered at ; and, should itjijtill remain doubtful whether a final retreat could be effeetfed, the second ship might _not be moved southward to H iich a position a s wmU^- secure it. _ In 1877 the leader should be at full liberty to abandon his ship as early as convenient, if, in his opinion, the ex- «mm I ' liiwp I s^^fijr*^?*" 1 ; v^wm^^^ift^^ ''p^s^^'^f^f^^'^f-ai^y^h'vr.tfv^ 308 PB06SESS OP ABCnG DISGOT^T. zy plorations of the preceding year had been final, or, if from hia experience of the navigable seasons of 1875-76 that her escape in 1877 would be doubtful ; and he should so time this abandonment as to reach the relief ship at the entrance of Smith Sound not later than the first week in September, 1877. . , •• * _. • In the event of his relndning out in the hope of ertn- tating his own, or it maybe both ships, during the sum* mer of 1877, he should consider the propriety of reduc- ing his own or both crews to a minimum, sending away all that can be spared to the relief ship at Lyttelton Island. In this case one or both ships would remain out for the winter of 1877, if unable to extricate themselves in the summer of thaf^year, a contingency which is hardly pos- sible. ,° It is not desirable, under any circumstances, ti^t a single ship should be left to winter in the Arctic regions. If one ship remaais up Sniith Sound, a second ship should remain at the renllieajifous at itp entrance. It does not appear that any moye definite instructions, than are embraced in the foregoing remarks, canbe ftir- nished to an ofBcer already fekiniliar with Arctic service, although there are many important points and details to which it might be desirable hereafter to direct his atten- tion. With the ample means at his command, he may vary the detail according to drcumstances, but the main points laid down by the Admiralty for his guidance can always be kept in view, and all other objects should be subordinate to them. -,„«-. ^ » He will be aware that in th€(> summer of 1877 a rehef or dep6t ship will be despatched to Smith Sound, and that she will take up» if possible, a position to be agreed upon ■irith him before his departure from England, subordinate to any suggestions which may be deposited in the cairn at Lyttelton Island. The instructions to this ship, so far as they need be decided on at present, should be to be found at the rendezvous agreed iroon not later than the last week in August, 1877. She should be ecjuipped and fitted for wintering in the Polar Seas, and, m the event of there being no tidings of the expedition nor instructions to the contraiy, in the records to be found at the rendez- vous, she should be ordertd to winter at the position _ a greed upon. ^ \ ___^ . ^ ^^ If, Ti^er the cTrcumstances ffludeff t&BfflOTe,tDe re-™ treating parties should arrive at Lyttelton Island in 1878 and fiJS no relief ship there, or no intelligence of her, it DESCBIPTION OP THE TWO YBSSBLS. 359 ^ill be takfen for glinted that some unforeseen accident has prevented her reaching Lyttelton Inland, and in that case the retreating parties must rely on their own re- sources io/r reachingr Upemivik, looking out, of course, for the whalers on their fishing grounds hifcween the months of May and August. The expedition will, in any case, on its return revisit the cairn on Lyttelton Island and leave records. There is one other point which it may not be out of place briefly to refer to, notwithstanding that the officer in ' c"?imand IB an experienced nautical surveyor, and it is this, that no minute surveys are necessary, nor, on an ex- pedition of this character, are they possible. As a rule, the requirements of hydrography and geography will be amply provided for, if the principal points discovered are determmed.with all the accuracy attainable, and the pro- mment features and general dutline of the shores sketched m as faithfully as time and circumstances will admit, sounding being obtained when practicable. The scientific memoranda furnished by the Societies at the request of the Admiralty should be supplied to the commanding officers, with instructions that the various suggestions therein contained should be carried out as far as circumstances will admit. Should the season of 1875 be so unfavourable as to pre- vent the expedition from penetrating beyond the 79th parallel, it is for their Lordships to decide whether the ships would winter there or return to England affd renew the attempt the following year. / DEscRipnow or the two Vessels and theie Equipment. The AleH is a steam sloop of 1045 (7^|gfe^.) tons and 381 (100) horse-power. She has' be^ thoroughly ' strengthened for her encounters with the ice, and fitted with new engines "and boilers. Everytiiing on board, while admirably designed for the special purpose in view, has been so contrived as to be readily converted to some other use, so -that space, weight, and impedimenta of all kmdsjiave been economized to the utmost. Each cabin, which is remarkably capacious, being about 6ft. long and 7ft. broad, is furnished with a handsome rack of drawers, which at night is transformed into a snug bed by^ simply placing a mattoes,8_^ n the top; the inmn.te ia kept fr om falKng out hj a longituffiial sideboard. The cabins are lighted by circular skylights which have been cut in the deck, a few of the after cabins being lighted by inverted »' * -^>- P-^" Tj "^ -t^TT ■ 860 PAOORESS OF ABCHO DISCOVEBT.. priinns inserted "in- the planking of the qnarter-deck. The doors at either side open into a corridoV, which, being also lighted from abov^iiomis a commodions mess- room for the officers, who will all dine- together. The • propelling shaft *i8 telescopic at both extremities, so that when a colhsion with the ice seems imminent it can be easily discoAnected f t9m the screw by means of a system of leverage, and the screw hoisted on deck. The steam . crab by which thi» latter work is performed is so arranged amidsjiips that after the screw has been lifted it can bo used to draw the vessel through the floe or along the shore. For this purpose the -ice-anchor — a rudimentary "mass somewhat like an " S " in shape, with the lower -hook broadened — is mad6 fast ahead by a warp, ai«i then ptdled upon by the crab. In like manner, the four brass- tipped poles whidi support the tents at night will be made serviceable as spars and yards to assist to propel- ling th6 sledges dtiring the day. Even the chimney of the galley fire has tseen utiUzed and mad6 to pay a double debt.. Embedded in the fore deck is a capacious metal basin, which, wlien the Polar latitudes have been reached, will be filled with snow, and the galley chimney passing through it will condense it, by which" fiiisans not only will a supply (if water be obtained, but obtained exactly in the place where it is most required. Each ship has been supplied with a couple of Martini self-canting anchorsj which possess great, holding power, and caA readily be stowed away. They also economize wear and tear on the part of the ''crew. The largest ice-saw is a ponderous implement measuring^ 15ft. iiji length, ajud about a couple of cwt. in weight. It will be used for cutting a channel through the pact, or formating a convenient berth for the ships during the long ^nd- dreary months of the- Arctic winter. It will be wbrked by means of a tripod sheers and a gin, and will be guided by an ice-quarter- ; master. Everything was weighed at the ships' sides previous to being embarkedi so that the Weight and draught of the vessels mightj bfe accurately, ascertained.- The weights of provisions, stores, guns, boats, machinery, t mdtwrttt487^^^bad bought of M ef^sr a^ 'L spnen i .Baine ston, the owners, by the Admiralty for 18,000Z. Each vessel is bark rigged, and the masts are intercjiangeable. 1 u^ ) OFFICEHS APPOOrrCD TO THE SHIPS. 36 i^ having be^n Tso constructed that in^ case of accident the spars of the -dter* can be erected on board the Discovery und vice vered. The r^ging/is of a light but durable character, all the iron-w6rk above aiid below has been covered with a coating of leather, as a^ protection for the hands of the safilors in the cold latitudes whither they are bound. For t|>e screw propellers a new principle has been adopted w^e>eby the -propelling shaft (as already stated) can be drawn in and the-screws^ raised on coming in contact-Tfnth the ice, without the U8$ of the customary banjo. . ^ "^ The drew of each ship consists t)f abput sixty officers, and men, and they, wiH^carj/provisions^nd stoje of coal tor a period pf at least three years. The number of men may appear small to those uninitiated in such service, but only ships of a ceiiain class can navigate the ice in 8afety,and the necessity of '^carrying-provisions, Ac, for so long a period/ rendfered it absolutely necessary to re- duce the mouths to a minimum. Of the officers appointed to the ships only two have ^ setved in the Arctic re^on^—viz., Captain Nares, the commander of the expedition, who was in the Resolute with »'"■'■« w ^r^j^an^m^r^m ■«* ■■*••• ^ oUt as comfortable a haven for their shins as possible 4uring the dark and dreary inpnths whicu await them. •.• DEBCKIFriOir OF THB BOATS TAE 363 Then will cdmmence at once the most important and the ' most perilous part of the undertakii^. Mr^ohn white, of Cowe's, has bmlt the boats for the expedition. There are eighteen, two of which are yawls twenty-five feet long, and two cutters twenty-three feet. These four boats are built of one diagonal thickness of mahogany planking, which ia then pay^ over with a coat- ing of inarme glue outside, and covered with strong linen doth, to .make it stick to the boat, thus constftuting the inner skin and the linen abnost one body; this is ironed over with hot irons till the glue comes completely through the linen, and makes the boat perfectly imper- meable to water. Over' this the boat is planked longi- tudinally with the best Wvch elm and Christiana pine; under tibe wash-brake is a large semicircular oork belting, over which strong canvas is stretched, whidi^lj^es a ^pital fender to the boat.- Six of the* boats, eacWtWenty- five feet long, are built after the style of whale-boats, with bows both ends ; these are constructed in a similar fan- ner to the first four we have mentioned, with the exception that they have not cork fenders, but rails with hand-holes all round. The ice-boats, six in number, are built as above described, but three of them liave not only the linen lining between the inner and outer planking, but also a sheathing of thin cork over the whole of the diagonal planking. The ilfor< will carry five tons of spirits of wme» ten tons of bread, eighty-five tons of beef, pork, bacon, cofiee, sugar, flour, and preserved meats, and ten tons of pur- sers' stores. The total weight on board will be about 640 tons, and the estimated draught of water will be 16 ft. 6 in. forward, and 17 ft. aft. The Hiacoberu, the smaller vessel of the two, will carry four and a haJt tons of spirits of wine, nine tons of bread, seventy-eight tons of beef, flour, sugar, bacon, pork, cofiee, and preserved meats. The total weight on board, including machi- nery, Ac., will be 440 tons, which it is estimated will givra draught of 15 ft. 4 in. forward, and 16 ft. 3 in. aft. Where more than one cooking apparatus is required the^ apparatus will be of two kinds — one being formed entirely of metal, and the other, an invoition, we believe, of Sir Leopold M'Olintock, bein^ formed of wood, with an inner and outer sheathinfj; of tin, and having a recep- a ponstant supply of potable water. The cooking stoves are circular, tne neat being obtained by burning either ""'^W^ ^^ iS^"^ '!'i^-n'T«5 J5i» ^ ;s-^ 364 PBPOBESS OF ARCTIC DISOOTEBT. \ spirit or stearine, and by an adjnstment of sajicepans, one upon the top of another, both pemmican and preserved potato or other condiment can oe cooked at the same time. The whole is protected from the weather by an envelope of thick fearnought. Wheh pursuing their slow and lonely journey in search of the polar axis, each man will be supplied with a water-bottle, resembling an ordi- nary spirit- dask in shape, but with the mouth and cup covered with a leather coating for the purpose of pro- tecting the mouth from cold contact with the metal. The bottles will be replenished from the condensers, and the water will be kept in a fluid state from being carried in the bosom. The sledges wiU also carry a supply of rum of extra quality ; but this will only be used in cases of emergency, as it has been ascertained that the best anti- dote against the tfolar temperatur^Ms not spirit, but oleaginous food, of which pemmican is a highly nutri- tious and concentrated form. The chief article of provision is this pemmican, which has been preparing at tne Royal VictualUng-Yard, Deptf ord. In making it the best parts of Scotch beef are selected, all the fat is carefully removed, and the meat is then thoroughly dried. It is in this state pounded to powder, salt and sugar are added, and then it is mixed with an equal quantity of clarified suet in a liquid state.. Being poured into tins made to contain fifty -six pounds each, it will be sufficiently portable ; and it is understood that one tin and a half, or about seventy pounds, will be ample for the support of a boats' crew of eight men for a week while travelling over the ice. Pemmican biscuits are also made, in which the pemmican is mixed withflour ; and all the provisions are of superior quality. *n«best rounds of beet and bellies, only shghtly salted, are taken, as meat may be expected to keep for a long time in an Arctic climate. Pure Jamaica rum, at a cost of 23. 3d. per gallon, or one half dearer than the usual kind provided, is supplied. Dr. Rae, in a lettei^o the press, after explaining that femmicau is an original preparation peculiar to the Prairie ndians of North Ajnerica, and that certainly the custom of using it for Government Arctic expeditions was borrowed from the almost universal use of this kind of food by the voyageurs, both during summer and winter, in the Hud- son's Bay territory, states, " In the usual preparation neither fl ft lt nor sugar is used, and I think bot h are a mis- take. I am sorry to see rum named as part of the daily ration, whilst iledge travelling, to be taken at lunch. Spirits in any form are Injurious before the day's march is m^m^ PB0V1SI0K8 Aim completed, but especially so when the work la hard and the weather very cold. In some continuous snow-shoe jour- neys of 1350, 1270, and about 900. miles respectively in very cold weather, but not on the Arctic coast, I carried in my canteen a small flagon of brandy, and not unfre- quently tried men, whom I knew to be very fond of grog» bv offering them some during occasional short halts about midday. They invariably refused, knowing its bad effects, adding that, * If I pleased to give them a drain on encamping they would be much obliged.' Perhaps, however, the constitution of the British 'blue jacket' and the Hudson's Bay voyageur may be different, and what IS food for the one may be poison to the other." Mesirs. D. Hogarth & Co., of Aberdeen, have supplied Jhe preserved meats, soups, and vegetables. This being the fifth time that this firm has specially prepared meat for these expeditions. The furs for this expedition and for the last fourf expeditions, sent by Government in search of Sir John"' Frankhn, have been furnished by Mr. E. Jeffs 244 Regent Street. ' * Every precaution seems to have been taken for the protection and comfort of the officers and crew during their sojourn in the inhospitable Polar latitudes. Besides ■ being outwardly and inwardly strengthened, the vessels are fitted with five watertight bulkheads- ea^h, with en- gines to pump out any water which amy succeed in torcmg its way below. Felt, duffle, and planking have been plenteously used not only to keep out the cold, but for the purpose of reducing the temperature of all the fittings which will require handling. The health of the adventurers will also be carefully attended to, and what 18 of as much importance, means of amusement and re- creation will be amply {Provided. An attempt is also to be made to imbue all concerned with an educated in- terest in the purposes of the expedition. With this ' object in view a manual of Arctic discovery has been compiled under the auspices of the Geographical Society. It contains an epitome of all that has l^en hitherto done or attempted to pierce the mystery of the circampolar regiong. The arrangements that have been made for establishing ^^■^^^i_°'^^^ ^^^^^^^l'" ^ ^"^^ ther e is every reason to - hope thar me mystenous pfoblom of the Pote will te ultiraatelv solved, and that we shall know whether there really rolls round the earth's apex that weird, open, silent sea, which Hall imagined he sigjg||l, but mto \Vi,Ml 366 PBOOBUSS .OF ABCnC DI800VEBT. ,1 which keel has never yet broken. Should the expedition nx)t return before the year 1877, a third ship will be sent to its relief with additional stores ; but there seems no reason whatever for any apprehensions of danger, or even— so admirable are all the arrangements — of unusual difficulty. The expedition goes forth to attempt to secure for us the glory which we have so long desired, of being the fir^t nation to fly its flag at the very Pole, and to solve the one great problem of geography — the existence of the so-c^ed Polynia. Some of the opinions of the most experienced Arctic whalers of Dundee who have been consulted may be cited. Captain Adams (with whom Captain Markham made his " Whaling Cruise to Baffin's Bay") is a whaling master, who has b«en most successful of all who have tracked the great whales in Arctic waters. Full of daring and skill, he has led the way into seas before wholly, or at any rate largely, unknown. Chasing the retreat^Ig and fiapSt^dis^peanng fish out of Baffin Bay into Li^caster Sound, he has Explored Pond's Inlet» Eclipse Sound, Admiralty Inlet, Barrow Strait, and Biegent's Inlet, and for the use of all mariners who shall thread those* icy regions, has laid down a chart which has been endorsed with readiness by the Admiralty. Within the Arctic circle, in a north latitude of about 72?*, a sound and an island bear his name. Many spots of interest were christened by him after prominent members of the Dundee community — notably an island which is known by thfrNpatrbnymic of the borough member, Mr. Yeaman. Nineteen successive years have seen him as Arctic explorer, seal and whale fisher, and his opinion is therefore one worthy of attention. "He is speaking of the vessels before their names were changed: — "If the gun-boat (he observes) goes, her beat plan would be to accompany the Bloodhound (now JKtoovenj) till they reach a narbour on the east coast of Smith Sound, somewhere in abdut 80° or 81° of North latitude. She should not attempt to go higher, but should then act as a rendezvous, m case the Bloodhound got into trouble further north. The whaler would Qien go forward up the Sound to explore. By-the-way, dep6ts of provisions, and a boat, ought to be left at one or two points even lower than thia-^say at Muhshison's Sound, jape Parry, and Cape York ; for if the crew had to fall' uape "ISick, Jape le^ 7they wduH he^ Bomething oF^K sortin aff j^o^ bability. I do not think they wul have to retreat, but in Arctic travelling all should be made as certain as pos- A WHAUKO CAPTAm*S ADVICB. 36f thlL ^® nucovery could steer, withont fear of T^??rw'"'''°\':^^' *^^ north-east tiU she ™ stopped, mmk she imght go a very great distance, and the work ^r that would not be excessive. My opinion is that * she would be stopped by Polar ice ii Sbout »L° of ktitude. and that &en she would find a fairly ^rack for gedging I dp not beUeve that the ^^TgSr wka runs a W the eastern coast of GfeenW eSds ftuiher north tSan Humboldt Glacier round pS^ Z^^'r..t ^^^ ^oj seen by those who went there, and! pretty level. If so, they could go over it in sledefts wonCl^ ^''^' dealof difficulty. 4ugh, of course S would be some hardships to encounter. The ffr^t ad! XieS ^ th« ITS^ ^^'' *^' Spitsbergen route^ is, that wnereas in the latter case you could never be sure that SSw T*^-*''^"^?.^'' ^' i^°iovable ice. and might be reaUy drifting southward all the while yoi thougft you were going to the north, nothing of the Sid crvlnen m the north 6f Smith SounT The ice theiTis E and every step you went forward would bTi much geM m real tangible advance. One reason iLv^ for ^W^«^* ^^ ^"^^ ^^ ^^^ •^'!^% level there W w. that no icebergs ever come ddii^^iiith Sound It glaciers were there we should see plenty, but none have ever been noticed; and besides ttis Ae people of th^ i^&Td ^^*t^^^ ^^^^^^^ wwche^Cy t^^ looked, and their testimony is worth havinir As to dedging^M'Ghntock knows L much about Zt asan^ man h^ng, so that the land party will be preperlv equipped you may depend. Qf Source they should We dogs, attended by Esquimaux, whom they would easily persuade te ^o with them. But what I tto tibey 3 TOit njost of ^1 18 a good ice-master. They ougL to persuade one of -the whaling captains to go WitWem LT^"^^ ""^ the more successful men to undertake the task there are one or two of the younger captains who wo^d really go for the sake of i^e honour off thbg! LC nf an T^"^' ^^^^8 ^^om not be ovef- • ^Xti • ^ f""^^ important to an Aretio expedition f^ ^f ? ''' ^^^r ^^«r "• For steaming agaW the loe and for guarding the crews from perishmg when the thermometer mHrlra 70° Knir,«. i?.,. ,,,.;, ^ • T** ^ T ^V^ th erm ometer mRrlr. 70° bd o w f;;;;Ll^^^n7and Sar^^^^^ ness envelom the whole land fVr m^thT^^ hS^ Swil '"' ""'^It ''^"^'^' ^^^ i* i« ^^^ questional whether any Government vessel can carry ancient coal U If \ i V '1, i J Ml » ■ 'ii ^'i nl-i-. 1 J ' II luiilf i" i 1 • ■• 1 ' ' ! 'f r- 368 PKOGBESS OF ABCTIC DISCOVEBY. for all her wants, together with stores and provisions for two winters ; and, indeed, I doubt if the Bloodhound can. Besides \ ^^r I^olar exploration than that by Bu^re fe,;/"' *^" 'h^^' ^^^^^^ ^^^^ you are never S ?l ^ YP'''' stationary ice in the latter route f.Mr' ""l^^^J^^d, ^eat difficulties in the route' stecL fw^a mention one of tfe most possible ob- stacles to the success of the expedition. I quite think wiLtrjiri'ffi'^^?;*"^ ^^'^' -^y -P sSsound ^as earlf fn f?'^'"^*^' "^ ^^J^ ^^^^ ^^^ «^^ ^^ the Folar seas early in the season. Of course one should be left f^rw^^r'^^ti^^.T^^^^ Sound-while the oSer went iZl' r? *^'^ ^^^'^ ^'^^l^ b« a ^^ertainty that nS •nfpDed ' IZf-'^ \^v.' 5[oo^/.o.ruZ, for i^tence^w^^ laf5^ 1 5^PP«8i^g the whalmg vessel got up to 84° of i thtk 'frt«^ r^^^ ^""^ *« ^« ^«««^«d te, and then SecllS floS r'^' r^^"^^-'^e glacier with a steep precipitous face that no sledges m the world can get over men cannot, for I have tried it myself. This impSle latZr^^'S^'i?? *^ l^^ Humboldt Glacier inVo^of north Ihan tLri^^*^?"«^^ '* "'^^ ^°* ^^^« b««^ «een higher farthei Th^'' '' '^^T ^ ^"^^«^« <^1^^* it goes much tarther There are pomts along the coast of Greenland tl.eTrl rrr* ^!.T?' ^^* ^*^« *h«r« for all that! and the probability is that it runs all along the line of coast aumit 01 the chance ot reachmR the Pole Btrt minmi.in^ the Klacier ends at Peabody Bay. ti,ey ,riS fSwf Wa i, no emooth-^arp-et-fo; e^- tra'^l^.r^dS. ttl^ foSS^i anidiflicult I get over"' ifh^, tefu there for hundreds of years, and has doubtless been heaped B B m ( t'P' iM r - ' -^ ^ 'IJt,' . 't'i' -"» ("-'i^* *T:tft '^'i'^-^^TjiWir"'^''"" S .^ •• 370 fhooress op arctic discovery. np in a manner almost as bad as tlie face of a glaoier for a traveller, especially on the edge of the land whereon the ipe-field rests. Certainly, if they can get along on it ajb * all, there will be no danger of a southern drift, for it is fixed fof ever, and will never come away. This will be gMsatly in favour of the explorers, as they will not have to fear for their labour being rendered vain by the floating away of the ice-field they are traversing. But their work, in any case, will be most arduous. "As for the sledging expedition, it would be most necessary to have both Esquimaux and dogs. The natives can live where Englishmen canilot, and they can find plenty of provisions where we should die. ^,They can .always kill animals, too, if they see them, even when we with our rifles would fail to a certainty. One of their favourite sayings with regard to us when we have lost our ship is, ' The English know how to die, but not how -to live ;' and they are just rijl^t. Forty-eight hours ex- posure and privation would kill the strongest of us, while nothing kills them. They just pull their arms out of their sleeves and then hide their hands in their bosoms, pull their hoods a Httle over their faces, and then lie down comfortably to sleep on ice, or snow, or hard ground, just as they may find themselves obliged. Nothing comes amiss to them ; and as for endurance, they can travel almost any distance. I have known them go oVer 500 miles of ice ground in their sledges in three days. One man I recollect went 300 miles without rest of any kind, and then had a few hours' sleep, and returned the same distance without resting again. I am speaking, of course, of the Esquimaux on the west coast of Davis Straits — they are more nomadic than those on the eastern side, and, consequently, much stronger and more enduring. Then, again, their powers of deceiving the animals they want to kill for food, so as to get close to them and spear them, are simply perfect, and cannot be too highly valued in a country when everything flies directly it sees a man. They will make a seal so confident that they too are seals >J^ixsSt it will actually * talk ' to them, they making a noise so exactly similar to the sound it emits that even the seal itself cannot detect the difference, and then they can go close enough to take hold of the seal's neck, and spear him before he recognises an. enemy in the skin-clad savage that has got ^^tvi Th a flTjitvlttioTi must cer tainly ^ have some of these people ; they will readily go -^th any- body they can trust, and will do anything m their power. I cextainly a^ee with the idea that a good ice-master ^ EXPKRIENCB^QE^EDGING. sn «honld accompany the expedition, as well as some at Kd In IS^T'T i' V"' ^^^' whin' inTclip'se" WiS « r,i v+^;^.''l'''x^'»^ quantities of salmon «r^wS A ?^^y/eet by twenty I canght hundreds of .splend d fish m a few hours, and there were manvthon in fd<;t. :But salmon fishing did not pay, for tte reason that yon could not always be sure of Jttinflr mf Zll El-^I \^v.^ '''• .?^ *- - ir:/lg:tTonTerned'^| issel S>S' f P«t*^<^^.^««d fear that. The crew of a vessel mpped can-always escape on to the iro anrl if ««« vessel remains behind this other^t ^1 Sfo -Ta home for Ca^tSrT?^'^"''^ ^ the foi^most one comes to ^fef^' savi^'YL? ""^^f"' ^^°l^^^ successful whaling cSte n. o?^pen water TbT '' ''\^* ^"I ^ ^^^^ ^ ^^^^^ B^^S or open water. This year I went some distance into tho Twi?^ ^ T ^ '^^^^^ "^il«« «f waterfand no ice Ld?W 7S^ f "^^^ ^^""^^^ runnin^down contini^v' and that I tknk accounts for the comparatively tSiJe which Smith Sound has lately produced. S is Httle doubt of a vessel being able to go a* high as 88° Had roLe, the Sound was so open. Do I think '+>.nf r,otJ season wiU be an open one P^Yes ; and for tMTreason Two years a^o Smi^h Sound sent down some very Wv ce discharging it with great rapidity. Ever sTn^ce thin It has been open and very turbulent. I saw LoTce there mysetf this year 1874; but I am told by some crptliL who were there fater than I, that in October tt had dischS some very heavy ice, which had clearly come f mr^ fh« tneretore, there will bo an open season. Davis Straits Z-eSlI^ ^T.^P"? *"°' ^°^ *^^ «^"^ent is too strong theie to allow ot the ice getting very thick this winter? 'xpe^dlSn^ ^""^ '^"^^^ ^' ^ ^^^y ^^^^^^^^^^ one for the n ^}!^^^\^^^}& Deuchars knew little about sledffinff ?nfo'!^ati'^^^^^^^ fu^^" ^r '^ ^^i^"" ^^^^^«^«« some SS intoi mation. Although more than fifty years of aee and times\n«rnf *^«/^«*iVegions io^ess ?Lf se^n times, he has still good health, is lithe and active went m B B 2 •-rmiyM -w^-^T^ ITp'«^r?j':*|*'^*^,-T-V>/i'7f "- * ^P^f^l^lWiKve*! ^ J 372 PROGRESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVERY. about it. Bless you, I'd go with the expedition, gld as I am, and be glad of the chancs. They'll go to the Pole air right, never fear. There's nothing to prevent them, in- deed this year they might have sailed all the way there, the water was so Qpen. But still, if they flnly get up to 83° north latitude— and that they will do easily— they can go in sledges the rest of the way. That is not at all difficult. I was with Lieutenant M'Clintock in 1852, when he went in a sledge • across Melville Island, and was out that time and away from the ship for 106 days. Very jolly we all were, too. Lieutenant M'Clintock was a regular good 'un to travel mth, looked after the men well, and took care of them. The best proof of that ia that we all came back safe, eight of us, and though two died afterwards that was nobody's fault. They sickened and gradually faded away Uke, but they did not die till the nfext winter, when consumption took them off. I should say it was the pressure on their chests of the sledge straps that did it. We had to go a very long way, you see, and had no one to relieve us, so that the straps were always on the chest, and the men could not stand that. I came back all right as you see. My ankles were swelled a little— perhaps you would say a good deal-but that was from walking such a great distance in the snow- water after the thaw. That might be guarded against by waterproof boots of some sort or other. AH the men suflFered from that, but it killed nobody. Frost bites ? Oh, yes, I got often bitten about the face, but never very severely, the safe plan was, directly you knew it, to put your warm hand on to the place, and then it would be all right in a minute". The feet were the most troublesome. We always had to see that they were not frost-bitten, and, as'the cold was always so sharp that we could not feel our feet at all, they gave us trouble. But we were lucky even with that. The plan we found to answer was to take for- each man a nice square of blanket, and tli^en directly .we halted we took off our feet gear at once, and wrapped the feet in the blanket till they got warm. It is always ne- cessary to get rid of foot gear, boots and stockings, when you halt, or you will lose your feet for certain. . I do not see why you should not use dogs for the sledges, but if you'did you would have to rest them sometimes, for even an Esquimaux dog cannot go so far as a man. His feet soon knock up. even when they are attended to. Of course it wouldbenecessa-ry to malce Thetd littie sloeff of canvas, 6-nd to take ^ome Esquimaux to see -ffiter them. Then perhaps they woijld do, and they would save the 8LED6B TBA YELLING. 3-/3 menagood deal of hauling aWpnlling at the sledge Five hundred miles is no distance at all. Why, we went M'Clin^.r'^-^^::'^"' '\"A that-the time I^^ent ^th M Clintock--right over Melville Island, and so across the ice to a lot of other islands, till a??^ in 106 dalwe had gone over a really tremendous distaS. I should not rilL^f '*^u """^ "**''^; ^' ^ «^^^y' I «^^er sa«. a case myself. -The men a^l get plenty of f^uit in tins, and changeof food, so that they are all -well enough. Win- ^ termg m the polar regions is not at all a bad tWng. I've entered m whalers an^ in Government expeditions too! and always was very happy. The shipmates were jolly and the food was good; we did not notice the cold very much, so that altqg^her we did very well indeed I should not at all mind wintering there again!'' ^ Sledge Tkaveljjiuj^ ^1,'^^^^*'° T^"" ^^ »^6dge travelling, which is now thoroughly undeiistoodWill. insure the examination ot I vast extent of new country m various directions, from the wmtenng positaons of the two ships; and the navigable seasons will enable the Expedition to'^obtain valuable fnf or' s":^roVn7the ?o'le*^' M-graphy of the now unknown r.Zn^!^\^^u-^'''^ in the Arctic regions was entirely performed by shi^s. On ohe'^ or two occasions only ^^er6 sledge parties despatched for the purpose of discoX and then on a very reduced' scale.' Xring thrsearch expeditions, however after Sir John Franflin and iSs gal ant companions, the system of sludge travelling was matured, and has^ow,. owing to the genius of M'Clintock. Markham, Hamilton, Osborn; and Richards, reached a Sl^^ ""^ 5'^''*T- ^^ ^^^*' ^"^ *^^«« daykthe sledge X?/T?i!^l-^' *H' P"^?^P^^ ^«^*^« «f -Arctic eKpll 1 ation, and the ship only as the auxiliary. r ' ^ Ihe n^ost important portion of Arctic work is the sledge travelW which was ffrst introduced by the lat^dmhll Sir E. PaVryM which is most indissolubly assocftd^vith the nasie ol ^'Clmtock, whose persevemrice and energy have brought this system of traveUing to a state of perfS igon. Ihe very pnmitiv€ and cumbrous machines used by farry dunng-his many successful voyaged, to the Arctic Jg^ g'.^^^ "0 °^o^:e to be fiomp a red with tho. light aad-- M^/nSS?' ??^«tj««t?d from the designs Tsir L. rW fn^ r It ^^ ^^r^^tion of. 1875, than is a brewer's ' dray to a light gig. An excellent accouat is given in Mi-. •'!i. Ill 574 PR 1- --■; ■ '-'^^ , • , ■ 'r * \ ".r v^"» ' \ " v Of JCBCTIC DISCOVERY. Markham'a Geogrcypld^id Magazine for Marck, in which, > .befof^ d«»*eribing the arrangements for the autitmii travel- iinj^, he takaH abrief yetrqspect of the sledging undertaken by I'arrj fiity-iive years ago. Parry »t Melville Island, in 1820, did not commence travellinj^ /jJPPflti'^ns until June. Jle used a cart, in all probability loriuud yf the field-piece carriage an^ limber 8upplie4to the ship. He was away only fourteen days, , ^having traversed a distance of about 180 miles, averaging 12' per diem. "His party consisted of twelve, including himself, but of which five were officers. , On account of the excessive glare caused by the sun on the snow and ice, the party travelled during the night, when ,the sun was low. By this arrangement they had the advoiutago also of sleeping during the comparative warmth of the day,- Th« daily allowance of provisions per man was 1 lb. of biscuit, f lb. of preserved meat, 1 oz. of sugar, and ^ pint of spirits. The total weight carried on the cart was'^SOO lbs., consisting of two blanket tents, wood for fuel, three weeks' provisions, cooking apparatus, three guns, and aminunition. In addition to this, each" man had j6 carry a blanket-bag, a haversack with one pair of shoes, one pair of stockin^fs, and a flannel shirt, weighing from 18 to 24 lbs. Their tents were madejof blankets, with two boarding pikes fixed^ across at ea^plrend, and a ridge-rope along the toi),4he lower parts ot the bkudcets being kept down by placing stones on them. - In his attempt to reach the Pole, in 1827, Party started in the same month of June, with four officers and twenty- four men, with seventy-one days' provisions, in two flat- bottomed boats, named the Enterprise and Endeavour, so constructed that they could be used as sledge?, isuid drawn on the ice. 3Ftoy were. 20 feet long and 7 feet broad, with a bamboo maip" 19 feetlong, a tanned duck-sail, steer-oar, fourteen paddles, a sprit and boat-hook. Each boat with _,0j stores, &c., complete, weighed 3753 lbs., making the weight ^ for each man to drag 268 lbs. ! in addition;^ four light " I sledges^^eighing 26 lbs. each. The boats were squarely built, without regard io shape or symmetry, their beam carried well forward and aft. In order to secure elas-' tioity during i^ r^u^h handling which they must needs encounter frOm^ ^ftfeL uent concussions with the ice, their frame was fir8fc^^^|tejfisi^^i|i a waterproof coating, con- sisting of tarrea^jflHipP^k^y^ thin -fir planking, which latter was covci i^^MMSfff ^J nn d ,o^^<^ ^a^ wiia oak ^ planking, iron screws the rs of the boat by a stout wooden ""\^ 5,, ..#«. ^ SLEDGE TRAVELLINa. 375 Sf^f Xif^Si^'^^ °'^^^' «^°"lar to that or« sledffe on , whicfi the bait would travel when.being dma^edavft'iZ ^v^ spar, made of hide, was secSS ZTio.l ^1 ^ ^^ T^^^'^' ^ ^^^^ '^^« drag-ropes J^errattached ^hMl f,7-- «f P^ovisio- fo? eaL ^an was 10 oz! 1 c?li T ' I' ^^^P®""""'*^*^' 1 oz. of cocoa-powder and 1 fi^ of rum besides 3 oz. of tobacQo :per maT^r week ±he fuel used wafa snirits of wine of C»,iXo ,^1 used daily. , 3l*T ^ ^^^^ joSvrt^"^W*'°'* ^i'^rio^s and heart-breaking ifX^aff Is f ^'J^^ceived, as owing to the latenes! ' whickitaSmnfrrr *Su '''"^*^y°^®^ loose pack, SttSteedtf ^^ ^"^Y ^^'^ ^^« broken and ip« 5lffi!S-o! 1 **^i8' *^e hummocky nature of the firmer •ice pug'ssitated a constant nafikint, n\,^ „,,»,„• U4»" J fT- ice J^^«tated a constant pa^kl^Taud tmmckinT^^^^ Bledges, the s^rfe ground living l> be SSlfmanv JerS'fi U^ «ometimes four tx^mes. Pa^y&yp^rs^ vered, fighting against obstacles that would have dauS ??e dS?t af tW^'^'^'r?"'."^^^^* was known ?h^a? ba^k the party W travelled over 292 miles of Zund ^eir greatest distance from the ship was only 17f S' ^ +"'^?^H *^^ «^ ^*«d the^ to the southed' -Notmthstandmg these obstacles, and the enormous St J^vnnfb-"'^^ ^^ ^ ^«' the latitude TwdTy ■ ^t^^ T?v, '' ^^^•^^''*'' ^*? ^«^«^ been reached by know J man. The experience gained during this enterBriseZs ^own us a great deal. It proved that the Sice of provisions for the amount o? work required and for tbp hardships endured was insufficientf^That the sled^s ' man i^Xh"^F/ T^ ^'^1' ^^ ^^e weight thtS Str;^^^'^!^*^ ^""^^ ™ ^«'*' ^ excess oflheir capabS not ori?v ^ll^* *V '^l"^ i^^« «« ^^ «^^^°««d as tTruse the cSent^bnt t^ ^if^ ^P' T^ ^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^ bj ine current, but the mild temperature had so rotted and thaw|dthe surface of the floes on which theyCveM that the greater part of their jtmrney was perfomld ^alking through sludge and water. As during £ f o^er ^gejourney m 1820, Paxr y preferred t raveingj^SL- •ndrestmET during tir^re^S^^rniT^TT^^!^^^^ The nexi authentic accounts of sledge travelling we I , i 11, •m, 1 1 t T I'L * « PROGRESS OP ARCTIC D|SCPY£11Y, - '^■ hear, of are those parties org^,nized by Sir James Ross in 1849' for the relief, of Sir John Franklin, in which Sir lieopold M'ClintQct^^tUen a lieutenant, received his first initiatiofi in thatiiihportant branch of Arctic work, which through his ineaj^ has reached such an admirable 8tat« of perfection. But to what consequences did these pioneer expeditions lead ? Experience had to be gained, and the- privations and suflfeiiugs endured by those engaged iif these early expeditions are now compensated by the lessons they have taught us. They started with two sledges, each drawn by six men, carrymg with them their tent and thirty days' provisions. Other parties with more provisions followed on their route. They were away forty days, having accompHshed a search over 500 miles of unknown country, but we are told that out of the twelve men that started, seven only returned in compara- live health, the remaining five having quite broken down under fatigue. The party sutfered severely from Xunger, ,. ■?v' ' ' frost bitfes, blistered feet, and rheumatic pains, caused by ' their continually walking through water on the ice and deep soft snow. Two of them, being unable to walk, were brought back on the sledges. Sir Leopold himself acknow-' ^ Itedges that after his return to the snip, he did not lose ■ the sensation of constant hunger for nearly a fortnight. IHiring the next expedition, that of Captain Austin, in 1851, from the experience which he had already gained in dpdge travelling. Sir Leopold M'Clintock, by adopting a system of fatigue ' parties, was enabled to prolong hia absence from the ship to eighty days, and to extend his journey to a distance of 900 miles. During this journey, partly travelling ^over the same ground as Sir Edwai*d Parry, he discovered the encampment of his predecessor, an4 round the remains of his broken cart, and the records left by him thirty years before. Even the remains of Parry s last feast, " a sumpkious meal of ptarmigan," lay strewed about in the shape of bones, by no means decayed, but merely bleached from exposure. M'Clintock and his gallant party returned to their ship after this long ab^uce, reduced a little in flesh, but not in health or spirits. They had already benefited from the experience of former expeditions. During the expedition of 1852, the last despatched by Government in search of our missing countrymen, we find Sir Leopold M'Clintock in commahd of the steam- intvnptct, ttctmjr unctt?r me ^ruemwoi ^juputitt • Kellett. On this occasion Sir Leopold had, through the assiduous and constant exercise of his inventive talent, ^^ SLEDGE TRAVELLING. 377 sp improved on his former knowledge of sledge travellini? peli'of Tol r^^f ^ '^T^^ ^^^y from ?L Twp fo?^a Fess tti^ Uon J'; ^f "^^i ""^^"^ *^°^« ^« *™^e»ed over no W,.!?! ^ ^^^^ °'^^«' ^""^ tW«. too. under no verv tavourable circumstances, as the ice over which he L^S to emjh man a mucfi heavier load than Weve? be^n twv^^f^^'^'*"'" .?7 ^^^« °^««* fortunate ua SinS seen fn ahf ^?'' ^T ^^^°' deer and ptarmigan werf trwel ,^?«fS m'' '"" '*''^'' '^^^'' provisions, Lnd to «Z fmm Iv^ mJcs across desert wastes and frozen p^fo fn:ri-sno;^^^;';t^tt a^:?' &s=.r.^^fc:.t -~= p ^ *^«^ W. '^^J^i" *^eir fe"ow menT ^ ^^ antumTRllrfr'f^' *n- ^PfJ^^^o^^ connected with the SSSH?%V--=- ^^^^^ • iWnev Tli« !L ^ ""'" ^ "^^"^''^^ ^«' ^^ extended journey, ihe sledges are of various sizes thn l«r^of o wccis, and the smallest a four-man slodee ThjirB »r« also sereral dog-carriages for the use of tte office™ wiS b h* ♦f^T *^ P"«iLiuir by ffieanl of a copper button. The atkchmentTho^^^erVoXTmainB gooa as long as tho lanyard is kept taiXby whSTtwo advantages are gained. Should th? sledge hlp^en ?o f^l" \ III' (. i * 3T8 PROGRESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVERT. into a. hole in the ice the men can disconnect themselves in an instant, and thus avoid being precipitated into the chasm. The peculiar fastening tvill also indicate that the men are doing their duty, inasmuch as the moment a hauler begins to shirk work the hold upon the drag-rope becomes loosened, and the offender is detached. We give an account of an eight-man sledge, provisioned and stored for a period of eight weeks, copied from Sir Leopold M'Clintock's notes. The following |pi;icular8 describe, with considerable exactness, the equipment prepared in Portsmouth Dockyard for use in the Arctic Expedition : — The sledges are made of polished American elm, and the runners are ^hod ,with steel, in form resembling a double skate, but with uniform bend upwards at each end. The cross-bars are lashed to the bearers with strips, of hide, which are well soaked in hot water, and put on whilst warm and wet, so that when cold they will e^hrink tightly into their places. The drag-ropes should be of 2-inch whale-Une, or better still of hemp or manilla rope, which is lighter, six fathoms in length, and these could also be used for tent- ropes. They should be middled and the bight toggled to the span on the fore end of the sledge. The span should be of the same size and description of rope, htted to go with an eye over the^^ond of the horn at the after-end of the sledge, rove through one or more grumn^ts on the cross- bars, through a hide-strop round the rJnner, and taken well down below the foremost horns, so ^b to keep it as near as possible to the best angle of tractiou^namely, 15°. The bight of the span should be about three feet in front of the sledge, having a toggle and eye in the middle for the purpose of connecting the drag-ropes. To keep the contents from falling down between the cross-bars, two fore and aft hues are clove hitched round each and stretched taut along— over these is laced a width of stout canvas, on which rests the sledge trough or load, and is called the sledge bottom. The sledge-trough, although, not absolutely necessary, is extremely useful, as it enables the sledge to be loaded more speedily, and prevents small packages from tumbling out ; it is alaol most useful in the event of much wet. It is simply a canvas body ip which the stores are packed, and weighs, without being oiled, 8lb8. , . , , The drag -belts are made of light loose girth, three inches widu,4wfreiH>»gh t»-gu aver a niajiJi jmaulder* iiayjBgJi strong* eyJet-vhole worked in eac"H end, into which is Bpliced a piece of 1-inch rope, having a thimblo on it. SLEDGE TBAVBLLINO. 37-^ the man can detShimt^f il advantage being that heads worked mff^r r ^* *^T instant. Turk's- menl^L aCStefnXrT?:^^^^ T^^^^ '^« sist of abont 20 fathoms of 1 !* • u ^1^^^ lashmgs con- used for lasbing tSaXg' oWsS^e:"' "^' '"^ ^^ lalJn^TttXdr^k^^^ *^'? in the stowage and over tie ceXe crS-baT di|-'-*v* ^"^^^* ^^^^^^ be «o that the sTedge ^Iri^^^^ ^^^ e^cl, descend in the'trnT^mrnerw^n'^S!;.^^^^^^^^ ^^^ rough or hummockyice. 1' w^ufpactT l^^^^ wel^mmed sledge is drfl?r,«,i S.^ ? ' *^^* '^«' » ^-nlPBss jerking to ^e 3 i,'"^ ^''« exertion, .oyer >ough' ice Van one that 'has ^r ^^'" P"^ pdfebed. The lasbines should it ^*'®®'' careressly should the sledgrb^e uBset «.^rf ^^ti'" ^ '^■*^«*^* *^*' would remain iftact ft liS Jf" ^T' ^*« ^"*«^t« fit a light cross-b^J^cross^lXrof trilT^^ things to go on L ^l7^, ^A t^^^. J.^^^ fittb^sl^'lgLraUw^^^^ '"'t'- '^"^ ^^« ^iff-ent drive? in a packed sled^e^^^^^^^^^^^ The on to the back of the fc Tf 1 ^'^t'-^^^^"? the other he uses the whfp7whTch latter b?"! ""i^^^"* ^^^^ constant use. ^ ^^"®' ^^^ *o ho kept in aid. with a fair wind the men «;« ^^^ «^^'%? «ail ; V iu laborious work 0^^^^ Tb5'^*^/ '^'^""^ ^^ t^«ir , out of two tent4e^??wfich shouTi^r'^tfP^^^^^ bamboo— used as shopra ^i!Lu ^i^°r •' " Possible, be of iron bandZ whichTs int*?^ being connected by an the hallia;d8 are rove IheTeU ^A^^^'f *^'^"»^ ""^^'^ into a th>mble on ^I^h sllle oT tV/ sa^'^r^^^^^^^ 18 placed across the sledge on ton of ev^r^v'-'^^^^^' diately over the midship V,«S~i.^? * ^.^^'Tt^^g. immo bearers "^' — ' " ■ the up: bn vi ng i t uo Uiyb ib that a " luftief sail mavTe RnrAArl ti.« ^i 1 ~" "*9"' *" •'"»t a iach sledge ehould have „hat i. ,^«, . .. ^^^_^^„ :m ■■PiiiPiMliPliil i'^-3Bj?-?5?'f'-; / 380 PROGRESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVERY. made of light duck, and containing sail anc^5B*wing needles, a palm, twine, thread, h ball of spun-yarn, two yards of green, or blue crape, awls, waxed ends, lucifer matches, record cases, tent brush, clothes brush, and spare wicks for cooking-lamps. With an eight-man sledge detached for an extended •journey of seven weeks the total weight of the laden sledge would be 1646 lbs., being 2351bs. for each of the seven men to drag. If all the circumstances are favour- able, Sir Leopold M'Clintock is of opinion that this is" not too rtiuch ; of course the men must be picked and well trained to sledge-work before setting out. Under na cir- cumstances should this weight be exceeded, or even main^ tained for more than a very few days. When sledges are travelling in company, one gun each and much less ammunition will suffice. The sledges being prepared and everything in readiness for a start, the men are assembled dressed in the following manner : — Spare. 1 FUnnel or wove woollen frock. 1 Thick GuernBey frock. 1 Loose serge or cloth frock 1 1 Pair of good duffle (or box cloth lined with flannel) trousers. 1 Light close duck jumper and trousera as " ovemlls." 1 Pair of worsted stockings 1 1 Pair of wove woollen drawers . 1 1 Pair of blanket feet wrappers 2 1 Pair of wadmill boot hose 1 1 Pair of mocassins 3 1 Pair of mitts 2' 1 Welsh wig 1 1 Cap, veil, and face cover. 1 Comforter. 1 Pair of coloured ppoctacles. 1 Pair of canvas boots 2 Towel and soap, also a water bottle and gutta-percha drinking- tiup. Bparo Qlothing in knapsack, altogether weighing 12 lbs. The clothing supplied by Government to the various search expeditious was made of the most superior mate- rial, and was found excellent. Particular care should be exercised in the selection of underclothing, which should be of the best and warmest substance. Outside clothing should tit loosely. In place of the overall jumper and trouaers, which are used merely as^" snow repellers " to keep out the light snow-drift, a suit made from the « kia of fr moose ' d eer well 8mt>k«d vyould be foattd advaft'- tageouB ; the jumper should have a hood to null up over one" 8 cap in bad weather, and should have a large i^ocket SLEDGETRAVELLII^ . 331 pemmican, i ]b. boiled pork, M ozs biS ?^: :Zf potatoes, H oz. P^pa^ei^Sote i ol tot S" sugar, 1 oz. concentrated nim • 4 n^o ^,^v u • *. , Xl™Xt eh^Irm cotVtri?\r^ "P'?*' t' ™'' ^ th.T' *'"'? PT *•<=<'''»'• Sir Leopold mSC Z^f f ""^ f""*" oocoa-nut oil, which he foundTS-V Ut i'S iH^'';''''- ."' «'™»te«?eB over talW are- "°fc? disagreeable in smell or taste about it ,a47:\^:^fll'Th^t''!l^^to•rf4p^^^^^^^ strthai'ihf'''' *' "'i^''^ l«"*y '^ o/^„se respon! to «ZL w r'"*"^ mstrnments are taken that wHl oe required for filing astronomically different Doaitio.,. and tor dehneating the coast line. ^yer^SL'^e^' in cheerful and ioyo"™ ,j;Vefr*'dXtp^'"fu ZiT!^^ officers with thefr rifles slung acros? tX shouS t 3^ man can ^^^Isl^^nimatelr scene, all ai^B ^61^; aid "ifkr^h the exception perhaps, of those few that mXf neTes Bity remain behind, to look after the «hip oSe crews 5 'II I'M H •"If r 382 PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY. V- / eacH sledcfe consist of an officer and seven men, and by a system wnicli lias already been adopted with great suc- cess on previous occasions, one sledge could be advaoiced to at least fifty day s^ journey from tbe ship, or more correctly twenty-five days out, and depots placed for the return journey. This is effected in the following man- ner :-r-After travelling in company for a week, No. 6 sledge will complete the remainder to their, full amount of fifty days' provisions and return, the remaining five proceeding on their way. When six more days have elapsed, No. 6 sledge. will return to the ship, having filled up the remaining four to what* they originally started with, and so on until No. 1 sledge is left to proceed by itself. In the meantime th^.sledges that have returned • will immediately re-provision, and will lay out depots for the use of, and meet the returning sledges, ready to render any assistance they may requii-e. • , As an outljne of the dhily routine observed by sledge parties during their ' arduous employment may be of • mterest, We wiH briefly refer to it. As it may ba ad- visable some time to travel during the night, iok the same reason that Parry did, we will not name any hour, but merely the time of rising and goiiig to bed. We will l)egin wit^ the commencement of the day's work. The first thing to .be done is to awaken the cook of the day, who at once sets to work to prepare breakfast. The time occupied iu preparing this meal is usually abdut an hour from the time he is called. When nearly ready, he brushes off the condensation that has taken place during the night, from off the coverlet, and from the inside pf ^ the tent, and then arouses . the whole, party. If the weathe^ is very severe they sit up for breakfast in their bags, but if not, they roll th6m up, as also the tent robes, put on their mocassins, &c., ready for the march, and then, sitting on their bags and knapsacks, discuss their morning' meal. The sleeping-bag is, as its name designates, a large bagv^ade of She Hudson's Bay three-point blanket (n< of duffle. It is about seven feet long, and is best fitted with the opening in the side instead of at the top, as %»n thi^ way it is more convenient to get into and out of, and the more readily enables a man to sit up and keep it over his head whilst eating kis met^s, or w]^lst writing. , When breakfast is finished, the biscuit and pork to be . used Tor ranch 'shoulu oe iiwjas urea out, "sntiplaiccditf tho"' luncheon haversack ; dilute tbfe day's allowance of rum, and any water that may be remaining pift into the men's SLEDGE TBAVELLIN'G. 383 If the water bottles. Issue to the cook the day's allowance of stearlne, and put the requisite amount of spirits of wine into the lamp. The cook trims both lamps, and is Sen relieved by the cook whose turn it is for the next twenty^ four hours. In large parties it would be as well to have a cooks mate m addition, who would succeed the cook when his term of office had expired, a fresh hand beidff installed m the capacity of cook's mate. The whole of the tent furniture must be well brushed, so as to get rS ot any snowdrift, or condensation, and the tent itsfilf wCi*^-^.r" ^^f^^J^^ore being'stowedontheslS^ which IS then packed, and the march begun. The oS takes his observations for time or variation, also the be^eTta^L^g^.^^' *^"^^^-^^-' *^-' ^' ^ ^^^^^^ After marching for about six hours, halt A twentv minutes for luncl. The spirit lamp is used 4 dSve snow, and the grog, pprk, and biscuit are issuX wind is fresh, turn the sledge at right angles to with sledge-sail to form a lee sit down. If very severe weather pitch the tent, and sit inside without 7n/S ?Pr?:^' ^ ,^*°P °^7 fiv« minutes for groff and biscuit When halted for tie night, and the tit fs She^one rj' 5l!l^'''n^'';? ^"^''^ ^"V' ^'' ^°«i^«' ^'^^d receives ' Ws'i. Tf *^Vffear, robes, knapsacks, sleeping WhJ^ a?i fiT f ""-^ prepares supper without delay. When all the work is completed the men take off and Hang up their mocassins or boots and blanket wrappers either upon the t6nt ropes outside, or on the tent line " v' !' f^^o^'^^ng to the weather, brush themselves well divest themselves of their overalls, and take up theii respective places in the tent, the offcer always at the head of the tent, the cook and cook's mate nearest the entrance, so that their rising does not disturb the rest bupper consists of warm pemmican, the quantity in each pannikm always being carefully equalized before being h^i^ o'^t. *^«n a drink of tea or water, when pipes arS lighted, and the party compose themselves for their niffht's rest; songs and yarns, if not too cold and exhausted, bnnpng the day s proceedings to a close. The officer, as a rule, takes his observations whilst supper is bein» pre- pared, and before lyin^ down winds up his chronometer LlQng U-Jbr-pi B ttlr fe ' good ^&at- the 4eat robr iH- pf I II! il 'J 1 ^if 1 l;> ii is' never to be spread until the question has been asked, lias the chronometer been wound up P" Before re- tiring, the cock sees everything in readiness for the 384 PROGRESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVERY. morrow's breakfast ; the captain of the sledge serves out the breakfast allowance to him, and sees everything con- nected with the sledge secure and safe. The tent is made of light, close, unbleached duck, weighing twelve square feet to the pound, lined with brown holland across the head,, or end opposite tjie door, up to a height of three feet, and along the sides to a height of two feet. , It is spread by means of tent poles, two (crossed) at each end, and set up with tent ropes or guys. A window, six inches square, is fitted at the upper end with a flap to trice up or haul down. There should also be a pocket at this end for the use of the officer, in which instruments, &c., might be placed. A cook's pocket at the opposite or door end of the tent is also convenient. In very severe weather the cooking has sometimes to be performed inside the doorway; it is, however, very objectionable, and should not be practised more than is absolutely necessary, as the steam con- densing covers everything near it with fine particles of frozen vapour, and the soot from the stearine lamp blackens everything. The furniture for a tent consists first of a waterproof floorcloth, made of a light description of mackintosh; this should be used with care, and only over snow. The coverlet should be made of the Hudson's Bay three-point blanket or thick duffle, its upper side coveted with glazed brown holland. Three stops should be sewn on one end of this coverlet, for tying it when rolled up, and when in use for tying it to the Tower robe at the Tipper end or head of %he tent. The knapsack forms the pillow. The canvas floorcloth, though not absolutely indis- pensable, is however, very useful. It is made of very light unbleached duck, and is also used as the sledge-sail, which is only set when the wind is abaft the beam. It should be laid down over the waterproof floorcloth, wh^u the men are taking off their boots and taking their suppers. In severe weather, when the breath condenses in the tent and falls in minute frozen particles, the canvas floorcloth is useful to spread " over all" after the men have laid down, as it catches all this fine snow, which would otherwise penetrate into the coverlet, where it would thaw by the heat from the men's bodies, and bo frozen into them again when exposed to the air. " So rapidly," says Sir Leopold M'Olintock, "does frost accunaulate, that in e^hteenday^ of tra v elling during the — month of October, I have known the coverlet and the lower robe to become more than double their original weight."* HP Iff SLEDGE TBAVELLING. - 3g^ n«.TJllTth:tvTrlef ^^^^^^^ ^« P' the sanxe Bay blanket or tbTduffle Slt ^^JT^^^ Hudson's, brown hoUand on ^s m^L.u^U'^^^'^^ ^ ^^^e^ng of npper side to ti" to ^^Ir «1 ''^^' ^fJ' ^^ '^V^ <>^its spread for the ntS-ToUKi P"- l^i *^^ ^^^^^^^^ ^^^en aW seven^^S^ouidr ft Thf J^ "* *^« ^P^^^ robe of fur, but it has Its dtflrjifl ^^^ ^^? sometimes been- it is lioreaLorLS) a sk^^^r'?' "^ *^ ^^^^ P^^«^- agreeable smell .the hairs c^^ ""Y ""f ' r^* ^ ^is- very much; the^ ^eal^mnrf. •%''*' ^""^ ^^^^ «^""t when frozei. ^^^^1^ '*f ^''{J unmanageable on the whole preferawT a?th«i '^ ''^?"'^ °^*^"^« ^'* when covered with fhl^^ are quite as warm as fur, which evl^rat^rfrom tfc ^°^ i^^' ^" ^^^^^^^^ t«^^ ^"xuumea aaring and caution among the makeS!^hT^^'^''^J''''''^'S^^''^'' accomplish to make the expedition nnder Oaptein Nares successful mm END. i^-,'' ' : ^•'■■-< ,'i<",'-'^^'-'].'Nr.-iff^V^-^ %^- }■ wmmm "r LOHDOir: hkTVLL, IDWIBDB A.KD CO., FRIITTBBS, OKAITOOa STBBST, OOTZHT QABOSK. "TT 1»' NOVELS AT TWO SHILMNGS. I ■ Pelham. Paul CUffonL . Eugene Aram.. Last Days of Pompeff. Rienzi. ' -> Leila, and Pilgrims of •the Rhine. Last of the Barons. By LORD LYTTON J Ernest Maltravers. Alice; or, The Mys- Devereux. (teries. Night and Morning. Godolphin. The Disowned. The Caxtons. My Novel. VoL i. My Novel VoL S. Lucretia. Harold, ZanonL What will he Do with It. VoL I. Ditte. 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By Miss M'Intosh. ^ Char lev and Geor^ie ; or _rhediWrcnat.Gfbml,;r.°' Aun?l/addys Diamonds. isy Harriet Myrtle.- • Two School Girls. By Miss" - VVctlierell. T/j^' ^idow and her Daugh- ter By Mis.s Wetherell.*^ Z^"^"^' awa' her Bible. By Miss Wetherell. " ^ h'' ^"".J" ^^" desert. By MissAVetherell. ^'}' Little Black //en. By Miss Wctherell. ^ ./^'^"^ ««} ^f:.^ ■;.;--■ -j^^-:' \ «• ao George Routledge & Sons' Juvenile Books. s. d. One-Shilling JuV/Eniles— continued. o Thi Angel of the Iceberg. By the Rev. John Todd. Todd's Lectures for Chil- dren, ist series. ' '■• — 2n(i^erie!s. Little Poems for Little ' Readers. Minnie's Legacy. -Neighbourly Love. Kitty's Victory-^ Elise and her Rabbits, Happy Charlie. Annie. Price. i The Little Oxleysi By Mrs. . W. Denzey Burton. . Book of One Syllable. With Coloured Plates. , Little Helps. With Coloured Plates. < Uncle Tom's Cabin, for ' ' Children. V Aunt Margaret's Visit. Keeper's Travels in Search of his Masttr. : Richmond's Annals of the ' Poor. •' Poetry .Child's Illustrated Book. The New Book of Ot\e Syl- lable. Blanche and Agnes. The Lost Chamois Hunter. The Gates Ajar. The Sunday Book of One Syllable. Mrs. Sedgwick's Pleasant Tales. Uncle Frank's Home Stories, Village Sketches, ist series. '■ 2nd series. Our Poor Neighbours. Tales in Short Wordsf' Watts' s Songs. AEsop's Fables. Language and Poetry bf Flowers, Stuyvesant. Susan Grc^. Original Poems. Nursery R%ymes. 1st senes. 2nd series. Price If. each. I Q Dance Album. With Rules and Music. Cloth, gilt edges. The Nursery Library, 12 Books in a Packet, ist and and Rouil^g^s British Spel^g^Book. Demy 8vo, cloth. A ColouretkPicture- Book for th( Little Ones. Small 4to, fancy cover. Routledgis Comic Redter. Fcap. 8vo, boards. r ; Popular Reciter. Fcap. 8vo, boards.^ Rtady-Atitde Speeches. Fcap. 8vo, boards. T%e Nursery Library 12 Books in a Packet. jfk~ »♦— ^■•— ^i<»- London and New York. 31 ;s. s. id s. . e. 0, 4fp Fcap. 8vo, boards, Is. each, with fancy covers. New Charades/or the Draw- ing- Room. By Anthor of " A Trap to Catch a Sunbeam." Riddles and Jokes. The Dream Book and For- tune Teller. s, for^thel Acting Proverbs Drawing Room. Pfy Notes on Conjuring. Original Double Acrostics, anW series. A Shilling's Wgrtho/Fun. — — \ **4 6 $i\\M^t'i^^ $ii«p4ttitfi '^mmuC With Coloured Plates, i8mo, cloth, gilt. , Allj> and her Schoolfellow. Loyal Charlie Bentham. Simple Stories for Children. A Child's First Book. Story of Henrietta. StoriesfromEnglishHistory. Life of Robinson Crusoe. Little Paul and the Moss Wrtatht. Watts' Divine Moral Songs. Cobwebs to Catch Flies. Ba^Quld's Hymns in Prose. Prince Arthur. A WinWs Wreath. Twelve Links. Easy Talks. Susan ami the Doll. Juvenile Tales. Six Short Stones, , The Captive Skylark. o 9 Royal 33nio, with Illustrations. These a|je alto kept in Paner Covers, prke 4d. each. History of My Pets. Hubert Lee. Ellen Leslie. Jessie Graham, Florence Arnott. Blind Alut. Grace and Clara. Recollections of My Child- kiHhi. Egerton Roscoe. Flora Mortimer, Charles Hamilton. Story of a Drop of Wam. The False Key. The Bracelets, Waste Not, Want Not. Tarlton ; or, Forcivia a nd O 6 " Forget. J 1 m ■r-rr- H p 22 George Routledge & Sons' Jtjveivife. Books. 1' ^ > 7 s: ^Sixpenny. Stpry BooKs^continued. %o 6La^' iJawrence, and the White Pigeon) The BarringfOut. The Orphans and Old Poz. The Mimic. The Purple yar, knd other Tales. The Birthday Present, and the Bhsket Woman. Simple Susan. The Little Merchants. Tale -of the Universe. Robert Dawion. : Kate Campbell. ' Basket of Flowers. Babes in the Basket. The, Jewish Twins. Childrht on the Plains; little Henry ancLMs Bearer. Learning better than Houses and Lands. ■ Maud's First Visit to her A unt. Easy Poenfj, ' Plain e^ges. The Boy Captive, By Peter Parley. / Stories 0/ Child tife. The Dai^ian^s Daughter! Arthur's Tales for the ■ Young. Hawthorne's Gentle Boy. PleasaHt and Profitable. Parley's Poetry, and Prose. ^igpiuKs Stories for Little Arthur's Last Penny. The Young Cottager. Parley's Thomas Titmouse. Arthur's Christmas Story. The Lost Lamb. Arthur's Stories for Little Boys. Arthur's Book about Boys. Arthur's Organ Boy. Margaret Jones. The Two School Girls. Widow. ajtd her Daughter. The Rose in the Desert. The Lit\le Black Hen. Martha and Rachel. The Carpenter's £>aughter # The Prince in Disguise. Gertrude and her Bible. Bright-eyed Bessie. * The Contrast. By Miss Edgeworth. The Grateful Negro. By Mi^s Edg* worth. • Jane Hudson, .. A Kiss for a Blow, Young Negro Servant, Ltna and her Cousins. The Gates Ajar. Plain edges. Sunday School Reader. Hearty Staves. Contentment better than Wealth. * Robinson Crusoe. Patient Working no Loss. No such Word as Fail Tales of Truth &• Kindness. Edward Howard. -"^fc I ■ 'k • ' '■-yf*^ '"W - ' London and N^w YorkVV 23 In 641110, ed. each, cloth gilt, with Coloured Frontispiac. Langudgt of Flowers. EHqufitefor Gentlemen. Etiquette of Courtship and Matrimony. '' 'Etiquette for Ladies. Ball Room Manual. - Hdndbobh of Carving. Toasts and Sentiments. How to Dress well. ».d. 06 'Edited by J. E. Carpknter/ Fcap. 48mb. fancy covets. Fir^de Son^ter. Home Songster. British Song Book. The Select Songster. The Convivial Songster. Merry Songs for Merry Meetings. The Funny Man^s Song Book. ' ^ "^ The Fashionable Sonst Book. Dra-iUing-Room Song Book. The Laughable ^ong Book. •The Sensation Songster. Everybody's Song Book. The Social Songster. Family 'Song Book. Amusing Songster. The Social Songster. Songs for all Seasons. ■ .^e Droll Ditty Song Book. 'The Whinfsical Songster. Highland Songster. Blue Bm Songster. ' Shamrock Songster. Mavourneen Songster. The Sacred Song Book. The Devout Songster. Songs for the Righteous. $9^ of Grace. o 6 ^ - ' ' , ., , ^ • 4'' V ■*>! % t»4' ledge & Sons* Juv|nile Books. In royjil aamo, 6d. ealf with l|^strations, boarj. O d Swimming arOkSkaiing, B> Brotmif^am'sC^^itums.- rkH^^tlT^ ■ -o Runt^gi1Wa!kingr;:ttffihing, t-^liWiWUh Diagrams. By &Gt Bk Stonehenc*. &«. 1 rdoir^ ^«» <. rickety »V •'V't arddn.i # ASO^I ng. 'orks. SiOimming. ^ItM^Wfj, tmtjmu Mmmks, f." pst ace Sixpennj?; Juveniles, on page 21. \ Each^illustrated with «5 Woodcuts, by John Gilbert, HAitRtsoN 4 WUK, and others. Xlrowij 8vo, sewed, in fancy covers. Sd. each.' ■«^ o '6 Things /n-dbors. i^tttuEat and Drink, Ammals 4ind their Uses. - Bir^and Birds' Nests. Fishes,^Butterflies, <&>• Fro^s. TVies, Shrubs, and Flowers. City Scenes. ^- Rural Scenes. Country Enjbyments. How Things are Mad/. Soldiers and Sailors. Science and Art. ' Qeography arid Costume. iklPPf ■» . V . -».... ■FP ■MHmapH ^ .#!■ J ROUTLEDGE'S NURSERY LITERATURE. b Picture %TJTl n""t ^""'I'^'lg'^ «« Si-penny and Shilling m-^ foTn ^^f k' ° '• *^°"^'* "°' •"= ^"" <^^**"' printed, or m ^ , "'•""^ed ,f they cost twenty shilUngs instead of twelve pence "_ "'i^Y . standard, Deccftber 23, 18701. ^ •^iP' lOiirt^'s %\tn^mt %ii-^n\%. In fancy coVejrs, with Pictures nnn ed in Colour* Cindfi'ella. Little Red Riding- Hoo^^ " House that Jack Built. Cock Robin. Xy First Alphabet. • Old Mother Goose. \ . Babes in the Wood. This Little Pig went to Market. Old Woman,who Lived in'ao i Shoe. ^ Little Bo-Peep. ' Nursery Rhymes. ■ Farm- Yard ABC. Jack a^d the Bean-Stalk. John Gilpin. Old Mother HuUard Three Bears, The foUowing Volumei Are formed fttm the above Seriei :- In small 4tp> cloth gilt, price 2s. each. Old Mother Hubbard's Picture Book. With ifi, « Pages of Coloured Plates. ^Z ■ "°'^* VVitH 362- O . \/^% . ■ '^^atei.''** ^•*^**"** ^^•'- ^iih 36 JP*ges Of Coloured In cloth gilt, .price Si. ed. The Coloured Album Vor £ " >» ^ 26 George Routlearty. ' Puck and Pea-Blossom. Puss in Boots. <^ Whittington and his Cat Punch and Judy. John Gilpin. BlUe Beard. ^ Sindbad the Sailor. ' Jack and the Bean-Stalk. House that Jack Built. • Old Woman and her Pip- A, Apple Pie. ^' Tom Thumb's Alphabet. Baron Munchausen. Butterfly's Ball. Picture Alphabet. The White Cat. Valentine'and Orson. Arthur's Alphabet. Dorothy Frump. Singing Birds. Parrots and Talking Birds. Dogs. ''■ Birds. Cock Robin. Railroad Alphabet'. Alphabet for Good Boyfand (jtrls. "Tfie Sea- Side Alphabet. s yuM.in'. w Greedy Jem and his Little TcSd'fp"'^'^'''^^'' Brothers. , ^'^f^d s Evening Party. " '^"'^'''^nd Jack in London \ !S, \ London and New York. Sixpenny Toy-Bo^ks— continued. Om, Two, Buckle my Shoe Mary's New Doll. When the Cat's Away. Naughty Puppy. Children's Favourites. Little Minnie's Child Life. King Nutcracker. British Soldiers, British Sailors. . ^ British Volunteers Rumpelstiltsken. The Fairy Ship. Adventures of. Puffy. This Little Pig went to Market. King Luckieboy's Party. Aladdin. Noah's Ark Alphabet. Our Pets. Nursery Rhymes. 27 o 6 .- r King Grisly Beard. MoBt of the above may also be had. strongly Mounted on Cloth, Is. The following Volumes are formed from the above Seri«s. in super- royal 8vo, cloth gilt, price 3J. &/. each ; or mounted on linen, 5/. each. • FIRST SERIES, containing f' * SJ ^n^' ^^^f//^ar^ |. Little Red Riding-Hood. 3 6 SECOND SERIES, containing TheFarm^ Yard. , Puss and her Kittens. ■ A ^'"' ''"^ ^'" ^"^ ^^' P'-^S i^ho would a- THIRD SERIES, containing Happy Days of Childhood. 1 Hop 0' my Thumb Stng a Song of Sixpence. {Gaping, ' Wide-Mouthed, ' Waddling Frog. FOURTH SERIES, containing The Multiplication Table. Prince with the Long Nose. FIFTH SERIES, containing How Je^hvas Lo st.^ ^ ^ I The Babes in th^ Wo o d ^ '^Grmfm'inyayme^m^yWtle Dog j^^'''^ #• '(h„ Chattering Ja4k. The Faithless Parrot. \ ■^^i^t^mf ^8 George Routledge & Sons' Juvenile Books. Coloured Picture-Boc SEVENTH SERIES, ^ontaini4 : iflGHTH SERIES, containing «. ' '^ '^tf" I ^ fie Adventures of Puffy. ^.,, JMALS AND BIRDS, containing ^•> ; I Singing Birds. X *BOOK 0|: ALPHABETS, containing ^ yte Railroad AlphMet: \ The Sea- Side Alphabet ' KING LUCKlEBOirs PICTURE-BOOK, containing ^r/ iS'Y' ^"^•- I- ^'^^ <^^^ Courtier^y OUR PETS' PICTURE-BOOK, Graining The History of Our Pets, \ Aladdf^* % Nursery Rhymes. \ Noa^krk^ g C. , ^'i% 1 ■| S 0-^i«? %tckieboy>s Party. J , 7-/4^ Oidr^purtier. ^&" y"^' '^'^ Lost. Chs^ttering Annie anc Grammar ThmMultij yerst. 1^ *" ^ n i ■ n.* ^ ,..*■ •{ ^ '^ Lohifdn and New York. ft9 ^OtJTLEDGE'g '^SlRrso''N"wTl'""^ l^ ''• -'• ^^"•^^' J- ^- Watson. HARRISON Weir, and Keyl, beautifully printed in Colours IJemy 4to. in suff wrapper; or Mounted on Linen, aj. Nursery Rhymes. 'Alphabet of Trades. Cinderella. ^ Alphabet of Pretty Nantes. Old 7estament Alphabet. The Three Little KUtens. Th^istory of Five Little Tom thumb's Alphabet. Nursery Songs. New Testament Alphabet. Our Farm-Yard Alphabet. ■^ '. History of Moses;^ ^{istory ofjosepjf. Uphabet of Flowers. Num^Rhyme*. The J^m ^ Our Lord, The ^lKmy3ears. LUtleRed Ridmo-Hood: New Tale ofWK^. Nursery Tales^- Mr Old Mother Hubbard. Pictures from English His- tory, ist Period. Ditto. ihd Period. Ditto. 3rd Period. Ditto. 4th Period. Puss in Boots. 2nd series. 3rd series. 4th series. 1st series. 2nd series. 3rd series. 4th series. Tom Thumb. Babes in the iVood, Jack and the Beanstalk. The Laughable ABC. ^i^^4Kffnals. 1st series LJmo. Ditto. Ditto. Tame Animals Ditto. . . Ditto. Ditto. My Mother. The Dogs' Dinner-party. Little L>og Trusty. The White Cat. The Ugly Duckling. ' ' Dash and the JDueklings. Reynard the Mx. Alphabet of Fairy Tales. Tittums and Fido. Anne and her Mamma. The Cats' Tea-Party. Baby. Henny-Penny. Peacock at Home. Sleeping Beauty^ d. o 7"- ' "/S ••iiifv I 30 George Routl edge & Sons' Juvenile Books. The following Volumes are formed from the foregoing Series :~ °^"H.n?*p"'"^^!V?^ .P''=«"'"e Book. Containms RoutJedge's Nursery Boole. Containing "Nurserv Mamm,." md "The CaK' TS-Parl5r ?• " *°°' "'' '" '*'lJ[o,lI^r°'"Th?r,'''?J?™ F''°'=- Containing '< My •■ Dash aadcfe Ducklings:- UrgA\cloS ""'"'■ "«' Oup Nurse's Picture Book rnnt;iin,..r. "t The Child's Picture Book of Domestic Anlmoio, Sene.^ Jjarge Pia.es. SntS^^C^K^^i ^ .^ Pictures from English History. Containing "Pic- tures from English History," First, Second. Third, and Fourth Series. 93 CoJ^ured Plates by Kronheim. Demy ;to? cloth Routledge's Sbripture Gift-Book. Containing "The O^ Testament Alphabet," "The New Testament Alphabet" 4 J clogf °'^ "^ ''°'"'" ""'^ " '^^^ "'**°^ of Joseph P' Demy ■■■■■■■■HH ¥ London and New York. 31 . Price 3s. 6d. each. '"xLfs •-°The cS'^t'^' p ^^}^T? " The Alphabet of 3 6 PaferofCoKedPlaS""^'"^' .^"'* "Cinderella."'^ With x8 Routledge's Picture Book. Containing "Thp Fav,v, Yard Alphabet/' " The Alphabet of Flowers "afd " Th! lf\? ' Name Alphabet." With x8 Pages of CoToured Plltes ^''"^ Alphabet." With x8Pag\s of ColouTed fees TomThmnb's The Good Child's Album. Containini? "Red Rirq,n„ Hood," ;• Mother Hubbard and Cock Robin '^ and '« t£ Tlf ^" Kittens."- With 18 Pages of Coloured Plat^. The Three Nursery Rhymes. With Plates by H. S. Marks. Nursery Songs. With Plates by H. S. Marks. ' — ~ : " /, ^. ■ \. . ^ ■' ■ ■•' - ' ■ 1 •> .<, ._ > |9 -- -' , » • ■ V , • . ■* d •-, ■",/ ve THE BES-fMAGAZmE FOR BOTS ; * IS THE ■ ■•••», YOUNG GENTLEMAN'S MAGAZINE EdiC&(by ElDMUND ROUTXfcEET&E. » * %) MONTHLY. 6d . " TllTi!!?^''' contain 64 -fcJralS^^o^^, froS Eight VTWefvi Illustrations and either a Coloured Plate or a FuU-pa^iSs- tration onplate papfer. ^^s^^^iins tion^^5 ^°"\^ about FIFTY PRIZ-^S are offered for the Solu- G^INEA'pRf>Ks? \?^ GUINEA, and T^EN HALF- PaVntfngs^ icf. jsf '°' '''^^^'' ^'*"'"^^' ^--s^Maps.- Models, The Annual Subscription for the Parts is hs., on receint of asXTpea'r "^"^^ '°^ '""^^^^ ^^^^'^^ -" ^^ -"" P^ f^. the'^Sth^of NoveS. Ts^a °' ^'^ ^^" '^°^""'^' ^^^^^^^ ^ commenced"""' """^ ^"""P'"'" *" ^^e Volume in which they are^ ' -.* '_ ■ ■ rhe'/ollo7vjng- Stories commence in early Numbers 0/ the Volume '- India* ^l\u ^^ ^ ^^°'"y ^^ ^ ^°y'^ Adventu«:s in inuia. tjy Mrs .Sai.k Barker The Man-o'.yVar's Bell : A Tale of the Sea, in Tefi Chapters, By Lieut. C. R. Low, (late) J N ^A '^®'^»,^*^''y °^ School Life. Eythe Rev H C Adams, IVI.4, , Author of " The Cherry Stones," &c . &c ',•,•' ^1 Rev. H. C. AdVms. Thomas ARCHEfe.,., \ M. Rali.anty'ne. *■ -^ady Barker. •, ^ i- >^rs. Sale HarkeK. . • T. Burgess. f' Colonel Orayson, k.A. W. W. Fenn. -Samuel Highlev, F.G.S Tom Hood. *^ CONTRIBUTORS. Henry Rfncsley. W. H. G. Kingston JJeut. C. R. I^w >. *' '% Professor Pepper. Chari.es H. Ross. Major Gen. Sir Thomas Seaton, K.C.H. Barbara Semple. Douglas Straight, M.p. Rev. J. G. Wood. And others London : 0. ROOTLEDOE^A "sONS; The Broadway, Ludgate. New York : T"^ W,ai.«K & feo.„. N«ws a... ,7. N«sau It ', And of all respeqable Booksellers. •> '^. i5'-V V J. OGCV AND CO.. FR/NTER8. ,7,, ST. JoAn STRHH^^yT^N^JTEZ" /■J "" "■"■"^"■'*- '»*T"_" >.»^^^^..»-.....^i^.J