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[Gwifym lorwfrfh Gwynn:\ A' ;K.VPII1c, INTKRESTINO AND HISTORIC\L ACCOUNT Ol II \vv% AM) EVKNTS, KMBRACINC; PORTIONS OF [EN'Gt.AM., IkKf.AN-D, SCUTJ.AND, WaI.KS, FrwiI-. Anu the Caxadas, - Y I.yfr liivii li.b a'l ll„ ., lilr,-«K*y*0 j Ainryw £«lnI(JD tywir ; • Vndo Cfilr dftaoi «iriWrf \ , x a^^ i For Ik thiijf ilrM for « diir., . **^| 'yf\hi^ NEW YORK. VlliMSllEU AM) snl.n j.dk t|1K ALTIiUK IJV THEf AMERICAN NEWS COMPANV Xos. i() c^- 21 Nassau Street. 1870. Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1870, by W. E, WHYTE, In the office of the Congressional' Librarian, at Washing- , ton. D. C. [tbb ubrary l#r CONGRESS IwAiHiMgrowj AS CL T J- TXMPEB^SCK PATItlOT PitINT, ^ ITIC*, Hi Y. ■if ! in the year 1870, by arian, at VVashing- Jo THE American Citizen, THE MEMBERS OK THE "PITTSTON CALEDONIAN CLUB," PITTSTON, I'A. AS CLANSMEN, AND IN REMEMBRANCE OK THE KIND HO.SH- TALITY EXTENDED TO }IIM BY THE CLUB ON His RETURN FROM EUROPE, THFS BOOK IS, WITH PROFOUND RESPECT, DEDICATED. BY THE i!.- iti AUTHOR 'I'hc CONTENTS. PREFACE. The aiillioi IIo iiitio.luces liimsi-ll Is piniid (if Ins iiatlvilv llisljiilli 'Jill' piomisu ol ;i iiohlc l.oid — ll avails him nothinij — Dcaili of his fatlici — His niothcr An only legacy — The wolf is kcpi from ilie door — 'I'lic last of his father's race — Resides willi his grandnxjlhcr — Indiilgcncf — " S|)ari' the rod and spoil tlv-' ihild" — Don't believe in it — Kindness, love and good advice — ItirL-li rods — Chastising children — Education — In a lawyer's office — In a incrcaiililc way — In a siiip Imildcr's vard — Don't like either — I'refers " A life on the ocean wave, a liome on tlte rolling deeij" — As an apprentice boy on hoard ship — I'celingson embarking — Regret, shame and fear — Outward bound — The pilot— A mother's tears— "(Jo ahtad slow" — A sailor in dress, if not inexperience — A mother's last f.irewell — A lull heart — Tears — Sea sickness — Wishes he was ashore — Make a better soldier than a sailor — A week in purgatory — At sea — A poor appetite — All right — St. Jago de Cuba — Vcllow fever — Homeward bound — Yellow fever again — Deaths at sea — A mournfid sight — Arrival home — Evtiy inch a saiLn- — Tbc past buried in oblivion — The pride and envy of his V)laym:ites — Jails to the four quarters of the globe — Went ill through the hawsepipe and ( anie out through the li VI Contents, rabin wiiulow — Is an old sail — Marriage — Abandons a sailor's life — Fills various occupations on terra firma — Emigrates to this country — Making and keeping money iwo dinercni things — Me embraces an opportunity — Oecidcs to go to Europe — Diaries and a diary — Leaving home — Arrival in New York — Introduces " (). T. A." LETTERS I AM) II. ' SKA JOIKNAI,. Outward bound — Sandy Hook — A head wind — A strong Northeaster — A polite ship — Sickly tributes — A good meal — Sorrow — Death is preferable — A change — Unsea- sonable weather — Sociable officers — A mixed company An old friend — An idol — System — Shuffle — Divine service — A Scotch piper — A fair wind — All sail set — Signalizing a ship on the banks — Cod fishing — A second attack — Misses an overcoat — Ship's latitudes — — DilVercnce in time — Politics and war — Just the thing — Beautiful twilight — " Immortality of the soul" — Too deep —Sea gulls — A testimonial — Land oh ! — The pilot— Movillc — The parting — Loch Foyle — Londonderry — Irish ]iolice and porters — The hotel. - - 25-23 LETTER III. Dubli n ( 5 n C F a IRKLAM). Origin of Londonderrv — Names — The charter — Its gates — Bridges — Cathedrals, &c — The siege — A brave man — Public buildings — Gents in green — Supposed Fenians — The arrest — A polite officer — An honorable discharge — Forward. 41 LETTER IV. On through Coleraine, &c — A delightful green — Belfast — Population — A rich Marquis — Linen and poplin — The Holyl s b F n a ri Ci C .)^C*vt^^;st)>»^.£&£^/9i^i£^^3fei%^tt^^^»R<.-«<;ri%^ • -^jUff Conlfiits. vii I: age — Abandons a i on Urra finna — id keeping money an opportunity — 1 a diary — Leaving uccs " (). T. A." II. wind — A strong triliiites — A good \ change — Unsca- i mixed company I — Shuffle — Divine id — All sail set — —Cod tishing — A -Ship's latitudes — r — Just tiie thing — c soul" — Too deep oh I — The pilot — e — Londonderry — 25-23 lirs; Bible — Newspapers — Public buildings — Antiquities — An oil I ridge — Botanical gardens — On through I.is- burn,&.^., to Dundalk — An ancient town — Kobert Hruce — His death — Distilleries — Brewers— riuirches — King ("ormac — Tara's Halls — Dangan Castle — The first church — St. Patrick — On again — Slane — Drogheda — River Boyne — James II and William Prince of Orange — Population — Religions sects — Cronnvell — ;\ blot — A flying King — Schoniberg — The obelisk — Balbriggan*- Factories — -Swords — Malahide- The castle— An abbey — The whistle— Dublin : Dublin! I Dublin! ! ! - 4S LETTER V. Dublin — The hotel — Americans — Cost of poplins — Govern- ment house — Castle — Chapel — State aiiartmcnts — Cornwallis — Washington — St. Patrick's C\ithcdral — Mr. Ouiness— Generosity — Post Office - Nelson monu- ment — Custom House — Trinity College — PluL'nix Park — A sham fight — Zoological gardens — Cemetery — Dan O'Connell— Honest Tom Steele — Curran— Mount Joy Prison — The Fenian chiefs — St. Stephen's green — Irelar.d and Irishmen — Roj-al Mail steamship, iScc. - - 54 LETTER VL larter — Its gates — — A brave man — ipposed Fenians — orable discharge — 41 green — Belfast — and poplin — The WALES. Holyhead — The breakwater — Government steamers — South stack— 365 steps — An ancient monastery — A thick wall A Waterloo hero — Tubular bridge — Suspension bridge— A long tunnel — Anglesey— Conway castle — First Prince of Wales — " Ich Dion "— " Eich Dyn " — The meaning Chester — A fine hotel — An old city — its wall and gates — Royal persons — The siege— Eton hall — A rich nobleman — Servility - The old cathedral— The castle — Wre.xham — Llangollen — Jenny Jones — Chirk Castle — Owain Gwynedd and Henry II. - - 62 vm ( 'ontiiits. i.i;iti:r \ii. Sliii\v!,l)Ul\— A lKiiiilii.ll r.isllt— Tllf liilllli-^Wclsli tliniicl I'opiilatiiiii — llcnford— 'I'll!' i :iiIk'<1i.i1 — N'cll (Iwyii — Charlfs II .111(1 ti;iiriik — Anuil Inn I lie Nflsdii iciluriili — M.iiiul.iiluus — l'<)|iiil.ilii>ii — Mil r^'iiviiiiiy— Hhun.uoii— rniiiiliii viadiui -Alitr'hm — ('winm-ild — Noalli— 'I'lif (astir— Tlir alilitv— Uriduii'il — St. FldiKiis —'I'hf lastlL — Hiistiil cliaiinci— The Drake family— Wii'cks and H-rt'ikcrs— The cluircliyard — MorrisKni — ( )iir own pci)|ik'— -Swan>^i_a — l'n|iiilali()n — l^xliiisivc copper and silver works — I'loaliiit; docks -Copper ore trade — Sea batliini^ — Tin- Lii>.tl' — l'ul)lic liiiiidiiiKS— Am old friend — Muinliles— A uood loadMead— Oyster- iiioutll (^aslle — Oysteis. '>! i.i;iii:R \iii. I.lanelly — Old linies--Marriage -- A tloiirishing (own — l'"xtensive copper, coal, iron and lead works — A ^real t'lnn — The nuukel place — A substantial memorial — Old friends— Kidwelly — Once an inii)ortanl place— The church, caslle and priory— Llanstcphan — The caslle — W(lsh costiiiiies — Cockles — A luxury — I.onghor — Hirthplace — The old castle and chutch — Little changed —The (luirchyard — A chinme — A sad scene— The head- stone — The old lioiise— Anold dame— A village store — " Yes, indeed !' pride- Nonsense— ("arregCenen Casilc — A Welsh warrior— I. land ilo- Fa wi — Strah-Towey castle — Dynevor Castle — Noted residences — Tallcy abbey — Roman encampment— The Romans — A battle — The re- sult. - - Si f.ETTER IX. Llandovery — The keep — Welsh college — Cardifl" — An important place — The residence of Princes — Cardaff— Cromwell — A deserter — Served him right — Marquis of it.. iilc-^WiUli tliiniK'l li.il — Nell (Iwyii — IiiM rill' Nflsim )n — Atii Tgiiviimy— rr, and i, is in that capaci.v the wr.tcr. while a blush sufTuses his coun,er,a„cc, modestly appears ,0 make his y/.-.v /.-.,t,vi,hi„ covers), to an in.elli- .^ent and charitable public; and before introducing " O'er •I'c Atlantic- ,0 the reader, thinking i, will not be out of I'lace, he would fain give a.bricf outline of his career through l.fc ;-I am the eldest of three brothers. „ne of whom died'in ■nfancy. and the other after arriving at the age of maturity and had r not the good fortune ,0 have been born on the' "ther side of the Atlantic, i, is more than probable that I .night have been ushered into the world on this side or ^■l^'cwhere ; 1„„, as wc are the creatures of circumstances "•e have to be content with wherever our I t is cast, and I with being a m/s/n„an by birth.* a C-lf, a Bri/o,,, a Cymro .ther will do, for I am proud of my nativiiv ; and althouHi my career through life has been as diversified as it generally * Although a Welshman by birth I have IV^;,r, n.. r 1 .SW. and /m/. blood cou'sinr hr^h rif veSf^he « S /Iv/r'Vt'?./'? P="""^' -de. Vmother'bei' g pureij nclsh. Ihe family name was Cz/^/Zm-. ^ XVI Preface. Is to those who are born under " certain planets," mine being none of the best, I would nevertheless bow submis- sively to fate, for I might have fared worse yes, mncli worse. It was A. D., 1826, on the 17th day of May, that youi humble servant first gave utterance to his vocal powers, which, noisy as they were, did not exceed the noise on the street, for it was election day. Lord J s S — w — I and Sir W — y — m L — w — s, were running " neck and neck " to represent the good people of our ancient borough in Parlia- ment. I fotget the result I But recollect being informed several years afterwards that his Lordship was the suc- cessful candidate, and that he had made a promise to my grandsire on the maternal side, in return for some little favors bestowed, that should the squealing youngster up stairs (meaning myselO. ever need a friend, I was to apply to him ; and based upon this long pent up promise, when about i8 years of age, I did apply to his Lordship for his influ ence in my behalf to obtain a government appointment, and soon received a very courteous reply stating that unfortu nately at that time his political friends were all but of office, otherwise he would have been very pleased to serve my inter- ests ; but that should the time ever arrive when he could do so, he would not forget a promise made so many years before to one who had served his interests so zealousl)-. I have never heard from his Lordship since. But I am digressing. My memory carries me back to when aUout five j'cars old (more or less), at which time my father had the misfortune to fall from off his horse and fracture his skull, a circum stance, suffice it to say, that ruined the family, for he never was able to attend to business afterwards. He dragged a " certain planets," mine iverthelcss bow subrais- fared worse yes, muci'i I day of May, that youi ce to his vocal powers, exceed the noise on the lOrd J s S — w — I and ing " neck and neck " tu icient borough in Parlia- ecollect being informed Lordship was the suc- ad made a promise to , in return for some little sijucaling youngster up a friend, I was to apply ; pent up promise, when his Lordship for his influ 'nment appointment, and ply stating that unfortu ids were all Out of office, )leascd to serve my inter- arrive when he could do ade so many years before sts so zealoush'. I have re. But I am digressing, vhen altout five 5'ears old ither had the misfortune :ure his skull, a circum the family, for he never erwards. He dragged a Preface. XVII inisfr;ibit' cNisniui fur .ibuut ilucc veins, ivliiii dciitii :it last came to Ills reliel. Le;iviiij4 Id my niotlitr ;i womuii of slcriing merit ((iod bless lur iiieiUDry), an only le.uacy, that of myself ami a yoiiiiftei biollicr, dependant upon liei own exeillons for siippoil, wliicli she had already done for vears pre\lons. Oil 1 how well do I recolleel how she had lo battle with adversity, and how well slie (notwithstandiiit; llie diiricullies she had to encounter), inanaj,'ed lo "keep tlie wolf fioin tlie door," and elollied lis respeelablw Alas I she also has departed for the spirit world, and I, the only representative of my father's race thai I know of, am still permitted lo sojourn among mortals. A few years after my father's death, 1 went i' spare the rod and spoil the child." Kindness begets love, and love begets obedience. Timely and good advice well given is, in my estimation, worth all the birch rods in the conntry. The parent, in my opinion, only harden youth, •The Welsh women wear heavy wide flannel aprons of tripe and tartan pattern. XVllI Preface. i and render llieni cruel in themselves liy adniinislcrinK corporeal cliastisenient. But as to myself. After receiving a common school education, in which I made but little progress, I was sent to a relative, an attorney by profession, with whom 1 remained some considerable time as copyist and errand-boy; but that kind of life not suiting my taste, I was placed in a mercantile establishment, which was too confininj; for my roving nature, a few weeks therefore, was all I remained there. About this time I had a longing for sca-faring life ; to be a sailor and visit foreign climes seemed to be the height of my ambition, which after having tried the ship building business, also to no purpose, my mother, who was very much opposed to a sea-faring life, eventually acceded to mj becoming an apprentice boy on board the ship E h U s, commanded by a relative '."•'? traded to the West Indies, I shall never iorget the feeling that came over me when on the eve of leaving port. It was then that my courage all but failed riie, for I was leaving home. That home which, in the language of the song, was " Home Sweet Home " to me, to go to a distant land, perhaps never to return again. Then my mother, my poor dear mother, almost became frantic, for it had entered into her mind that she would never see her "darling boy" again. Yes, reader, so sad did I feel, that had it not been for shame, a fear that my playmates would laugh and jeer at me, 1 would have gone on shore, and thus would have ended my idea of a sailor's life. But it was too late to hesitate, the vessel was taking in her moorings, and the loud voice of the pilot could be heard above the din of the windlass and capstan, creaking of blocks and loud singing of the I rew a rhains. Then c tow us ■loa. ' sailor, ciuay V heart ' headwi lew, ar In a pretty to be s wande I had I rope St so stro sick, could, any or drink i and in the Ci under for me ship's mand. more < •Sa; sickne but fei elves by adminislcrin« myself. )I education, in which I Ui a relative, an attorney ined some considerable ut that kind of life not lercantilc establishment, ng nature, a few weeks About this time I had 1 sailor and visit foreign ly ambition, which after ess, also to no purpose, pposed to a sea-faring ming an apprentice boy Dmmandcd by a relative lat came over me when i then that my courage ing home. That home \g, was " Home Sweet land, perhaps never to ny poor dear mother, ered into her mind that ng boy" again. Yes, t not been for shame, a igh and jeer at me, I i would have ended my oo late to hesitate, the , and the loud voice of le din of the windlass id loud singing of the Pye/ace. xtx rc'W as they clieerliilly pulled in the heavy hawsurs and hains, and coiled them away Into their respective places. Then came the word to the tug-boat, which was engagv'd to tow us to the roads or place of anchorage, prior to going to M-a. " (Jo ahead slow." I stood on the deck drcssud a Ui lu'lor, almost stupefied, and saw my dear mother on the ciuay wave her handkerchief a.s her last farewell, for her heart was too full 'n speak, as the vessel began to gather lieadway. Then came to my relief a flood of tears, a goodly lew, and 1 felt better. In a couple of hours we arrived in the roads. It was pretty rough. The ship rolled, then pitched, and I seemed to be standing first upon my head then on my heels, and wander around the deck like a drunken man, until at last I had to come tD my moorings, which I did among a lot of rope stowed away in the fore-castle, where the tar smelled so strong that it added to my malady, for I was terribly sea sick. At that time I would have given the world, if I could, to have got on shore. There was no sympathy from any one. The rude sailors laughed at me, telling me to drink a pail full of salt water,* that then I would be all right and many other such unkind remarks. During the night the Captain cantie on board, and ordered the ship to get under weigh and proceed to sea, and afterwards inquired for me. He was told that I had been sick ever since the ship's arrival in the roads. " Send him aft," was the com- mand. Aft I came, first holding on to one thing then another, more dead than alive. Said he : " So you are sea sick, eh ? • Salt water is supposed to be an excellent remedy for sea sickness, for it has a tendency to strengthen the stomach ; but few are able to take it. XX Preface. * 1 make particular mention of those facts of my first voyage to sea, simply to sliow my readers that sea-farinj; life was not tliat whicli my young mind had supposed ii would b(! t The funeral service at sea is very impressive, and is thai which is laid down in the Book of Common Prayer for such occasions. Ill di liorc tl felt all I sea ii ilicn ! icaien ti ivagc, c-light Vou i\i(' a preliy sailor. Make .\ bt-iti-r soldier than sailor, 1 think. (»o and wash vour faci' and hands an vou will feel lietler." 1 essayed to do so, hut nature h:i. to \i\\v way, and sprawllnir I went down the cal)in slai moaning piliouslv. I remained |)arlially in this drijlorahlc iHindition for pi' haps a week, performing surh work as 1 was able to dn lofrain during which lime my stomach refused all noiirishnieni|l was'/' liul al ilie end of that time " Richard was himself again. On our arrival ai St. .lago de Cuba, I was the first victini t the vellow fever, and instead of sending me to the hospitn md adl my kind relative sent me to a private hoarding house, an( lery mi although my life was al one time despaired of, under tli( kind treatment of the ladies of the house, 1 recovcrei • siilhciently and in lime to join the ship when ready for sen In a few days after leaving Si. Jagn, the yellow fever broki out on board, and carried away witli it several of our crew among ihein my fellow apprentice, his first voyage liki myself to sea ;* but 1 continued to gain strength daily, and felt as though the past had been forgotten. \\'e buried them in fhe deep blue sea, a sad and mournful sight, smved up in their hammocks, with a heavy weight attached to their feel They were launched over the ship's side into the brin\ deep, to become perhaps food for the monsters which inhabit the Atlantic.! Aftei made i .\meric during globe, ;md W I anean it woul lirief ai I'onnec sailor, for plci maritii. and ca on boa *\V1 duties ihem ii ' n IjfitiT .soldier than i)ur faci' ;uk1 haiuls an to do so, but nature h:ii ■nt mm wc visitL-d iiuciestiiig lo an ,i>:lad that my humble ■aiii. f^*^' W. K. WIIYTK. O'ER THE ATLANTIC. *.? LETTER I. AMERICA. New York, /une Mi, 1867. — The weather dur- ing the last few days has been sultry and ht>t, so much so that it has been quite oppressive. The steamship Hihernia, of the Anchor Line, Capt. Mun- ro, plying between New York and Glasgow, left Pier 20, Nortli River, about noon, on her voyage across tlie Atlantic, with a full list of cabin pas- sengers, and a great many in the second cabin, intermediate and steerage, principally comprised of persons going to visit relatives and friends in various parts of Europe. Such being my own case. My wife and her brother accompanying me with a view of seeing scenes and life in the " Old World." Ar SKA. Scarcely had we got off Sandy Hook, (where the pilot left us) before our fellow passengers began A »6 O'er the Aflantic. to feel the iiiHuence of a strong N. E. wind, which, being ahead, made tlie gallant ship as polite as a French dancing master, and ere the supper bell had rang, all, with but a few excep- tions, were paying sickly tributes to Neptune. Thanks to my former experience of a seafaring life, I felt like partaking with a relish of the good things so nicely laid out for the evening repast, so sat down at the Captain's table with the airs of an old salt. At 8 p. m., wind increasing, bringing on sea-sickness among the passengers in its most terrible form. The cries and moans of the poor victims are pitiful to hear, some wishing they had never lett terra firma, and others almost preferring death to the endurance of the malady, my wife and her brother not the least among the number, but they are fortunate in having me to devote that attention to them, which they could not otherwise get, for the stewards and stewardess have too much to do among so manj^ passengers. Midnight. — It now blows a gale of wind and the ship is under double reefed fore-and-aft sails, and laboring heavy, the more so, in consequence of being loaded by the head Avith seventy-five tons of coal, temporarily stowed in the waist* before leaving New York, large quantities of which is washed away as she dives under a head sea, which put me in mind of an old sea phrase : " He that goes to sea for pleasure may go to h — I • Forward G.ing^vay. h tl II ii (J \ i, 1; 11 li f t t a a r (1 F e c I t] \ lantU. O'er the AtliUitic. 27 strong N. E. wind, I tlie gallant ship as J master, and ere the i'ith but a few excep- tributes to Neptune. ;rience of a seafaring :h a relish of tiie good r the evening repast, I's table with the airs m., wind increasing, long the passengers in e cries and moans of to hear, some wishing ««, and others almost Li ranee of the malady, t the least among the late in having me to !m, which they could ;wards and stewardess f so man)^ passengers, s a gale of wind and rfed fore-and-aft sails, ire so, in consequence 5ad Avith seventy-five towed in the waist* , large quantities of le dives under a head of an old sea phrase : jasure may go to h — 1 for pastime." But such is life, for how often dy we pay for that we do not really enjoy. 9///. — This is the Sabbath. Wind as yesterday, but accompanied with a cold, drizzling rain. All tiie passengers, with the excepliim of two gentle- men and myself, still very miicii under the dire inHuence of sea- sickness, a profitable time to the owners so far as dietinfr is concerned. Noon- Passed a barcpie bound to the eastward, but lay- ing too* under close reefed main topsail, and laboring very heavy, very much more so than ourselves — during the last thirty-six lours we have made but little iieadway. loth. — Fine and clear day with a strong breeze from the old quarter (N. E.) Passengers still in the arms of Neptune, especially the ladies. Af- ternoon — less wind, set more sail, i. e. by shaking out the reefs of the fore and aft sails. Some gentlemen passengers have made their appear- ance on deck, cutting but a sorry figure, having anything but "sea legs" under them. To-day made the acquaintance of Capt. Munro and the doctor (Flemington) of the ship, two unso- phisticated sociable men. Evening — more mod- erate, made the acquaintance of Mr. Reed, the chief officer, with whom I had a long talk while walking the deck a la sailor, a gentleman I am much pleased with. All the officers seem to be very gentlemanly and sociable men, just the • Hove too. Keeping head to wind and sea as near as possible, so as to weather the gale the easier. 28 0\r the Atlantic. kind of men wlio shuuld officer ii ptissengcr vessel. 1 1///. — A beautiful morning witli pleasant breeze, but still ahead. A great many of the passengers feel better and are able to sit at the breakfast table, a mixed company, comprised of Scotch y Irish, English, Welsh and American; (if Welsh there are only two, myself and a gentle- man named Thomas, from Utica, N. Y., with whom I was acquainted eleven years ago, since which time I had not seen him until we met on board, after being two days out of New York, when, after some little conversa- tion pro and con, we recollected each other — glad were we to meet under such peculiar cir- cumstances and renew old acquaintance. Mr. Thomas is bound to the same part of Wales as myself — his parents reside about twenty miles from my native place. W^e now begin to be better acquainted with the officers of the ship. Captain Munro is the idol of his subordinates, whom they familiarly term the old man, not because he is any older than either of them, but because it is a sort of endearment. Mr. Reed, the chief officer, is a plain, matter-of-fact man, every inch a sailor. Not one of those kid glove kind, but a whole-soul, straight-up-and-down tar of the old school I he passed the principal part of his life in the East India trade, some portion as master, and it is presumed tiiat so soon as a vacancy occurs in this line he will be pr of] nrj }I< an se< is ex m< in m: un wc Ml pu ms la< so sh ch CO th( Tc pb is lir fifl fet a bl< sq itk. )fficcr ii piisscngcr ing with pleasant freat many of the e able tu hut nt the pany, comprised of and American; of yself and a gentle- Utica, N. Y., with ;leven years ago, ot seen him until ing two days out me little conversa- :cted each other — such peculiar cir- iicquaintance. Mr. e part of Wales as bout twenty miles now begin to be jfficers of the ship, f his subordinates, the old man, not either of them, but irment. Mr. Reed, natter-of-fact man, \ of those kid glove aight-up-and-down issed the principal India trade, some presumed that so this line he will be O'er the Atlaulk. ig promoted to captain. Mr. Johnson, the second officer, is quite a young man, and one that will no doubt make his mark in the profession. Mr. Henderson, tiie third officer, is an elderly man, and I understand is to succeed Mr. Johnson as second on the ship next voj-agc, for Mr. Johnson is to remain on shore to undergo the usual examination for promotion before the Govern- ment Board of Examiners, which is very strict in the British Merchant Marine service, for no man is allowed to act as an officer on board of ship unless duly qualified to do so. a system we would do well to adopt in the United States Merchant Marine. Dr. Flemington and tie purser Mr. Brown, two very polite gentlemen, make themselves very agreeable, and escort the ladies up and down the deck with that gallantry so generally unusual among sea-faring men, in short, they flirt with the ladies, play with the children, and do all in their power to make all comfortable and happy. Mr. MacTammany, the chief engineer, is also a very pleasant person. To-day Capt. Munro introduced a game to be played on the quarter deck, called shufle, which is simply a number of squares formed of chalk lines on the deck and numbered so as to count fifteen each way, then the player stands twenty feet off with a long stick in his hand, resembling a billiard cue rest, and pushes with it a rotind block of wood with a flat surface towards the squares, when he that counts the most, which ■-I ^o O'l'r the Atlantii'. ! i. depends upon whicli square liis block rests, wins tlic jjamc. This is an amusing and interesting game, and not without its excitement, a game that will serve much to do away with the monot- ony of a sea voyage. 12///. — During the. night we had light airs, and in the early morning a calm. At noon, a light wind from the old corner. All the passen- gers on deck forgetful of the past, some playing shuffle, now becoming quite popular, others throwing rope quoits over a wooden }ieg and into a bucket, others reading, and away aft are some Democrats and Republicans discussing American politics, which, I am afraid, will not make any of them the wiser, for stubbornness will predominate on both sides. This evening a Rev. Mr. Kennedy, assisted by the Rev. Mr. Sprovvl, from Pittsburgh, held divine service in the cabin, and later, a Scotch piper marched up and down the whole length of the ship, as stately as if a Laird of the Isles, playing upon his bags the most popular airs of Scotland, rriuch to the de- light and amusement of the passengers, after which, the passengers retired to the cabin to en- joy a game of chess, checkers, whist, euchre, &c., the Captain, Doctor and Purser joining in with them. 13///. — A fair wind and warmer weather, all sail set, and a full head of steam on, expect to be (m the banks of Newfoundland this afternoon. 2;30 P. M. signalled the American ship /F«A mot ing Nij coll I ma no^ wh pos No Fn cat Ne tiv( seli are aft( loa ves stei wa gei oil on( the Ste lig am the ke( ral is block rests, wins ig iind interesting xcitement, a game iiy with the monol- ve had light airs, :alm. At noon, a ^ All tiie passen- past, some playing e popular, others I wooden jieg and and away aft are t)licans discussing m afraid, will not r stubbornness will rhis evening a Rev. ! Rev. Mr. Sprovvl, ervice in the cabin, hed up and down , as stately as if a ipon his bags the i, rriuch to the de- passeagers, after to the cabin to en- whist, euchre, &c., er joining in with irmer weather, all im on, expect to be nd this afternoon, nerican ship IVest- 0\'r the Atlantic. 3* moreland bound West. Evening — Wind increas- ing and shifting to the N. W. Shortened sail. Night — Wind more northerly accompanied with cold rain. 14/A. — This morning light airs, yet we are making good headway under steam. We are now crossing the banks, in a fog, with the fog- whistle going every few minutes,to warn ships that possibly may be in our track, of our presence. Noon — drizzling cold rain. Evening — passed a French barque at anchor, with her boats out catching codfish. — Codfishing on the banks of Newfoundland is quite an extensive and hicra- tive business; during the season hundreds of ves- sels of various tonnage, from 100 to 500 tons, are engaged in catching and salting the fish, after which, they leave for various places to un- load and dry the fish for market ; many of those vessels, while on the banks, get run down by steamers and other vessels crossing to the east- ward and westward during the thick fogs which generally prevail in these latitudes, and which often result in the partial or total destruction of one or the other of the ships colliding. It is therefore highly necessary to keep a good lookout. Steamers, in addition to their fog-whistles, cp/ry lights of various colors, one at the foremast head and one on each side, starboard and larboard of the bridge. Sailing vessels blow a fog-horn and keep their bells ringing, which resembles a fune- ral knell, hence every precaution is, or if not. 32 iVir the Atlitnlic. slifnild be exercised to prevent, wlii«rh too often occurs, siiips getting into collision. — I recollect, when in the Quebec trade many years ago, on tiie passage home, crossing the banks during a heavy gale of wind from the N. W., it was at night, the ship running before the wind under double reefed topsails, suddenly and within half a cable's length of us a small schooner was seen on our starboard quarter, hove too, with the helm lashed down* and the crew all below. A minute or so earlier she must have crossed our bows, a narrow escape for her, for had the ship struck her wc would have run clean over her, and sent her and the crew without a second's warning into the land of fishes. This was in my boyhood days, but it seems as though it was but yesterday. •To dispense with the services of .1 man at the helm. 'HtlC. 3nt, wlii<.'li too often tllision. — I recollect, nanv years ago, on the banks during a he N. W., it was at ore the wind under :ldenly and within small schooner was T, hove too, with the crew all below. A ist have crossed our ler, for had the ship run clean over her, without a second's es. This was in my is though it was but >f a man at the helm. O'er the Athnlii 33 LETTER II. AT SEA, CONTINUED. June IS///.— Strong cold northerly wind, and long-swelled sea, which causes the ship to roll very much, creating among some of the passengers a second attack of sea sickness. Noon— wc are now seven days from New York, and over tin- banks of Newfoundland, going ten knots* per hour, distance run, only 1200 miles, yet, if we have; luck, may possibly complete the passage by this day week (Saturday). Evening— more moderate but still quite cold, causing me to miss very much the good services of my overcoat, which I negligently left behind in tlie railway car at Scranton, Pa. Night— beautifully clear moon- light, two hotirs difference in time between us and New York. 16///.— Early morning a dead calm, or what is generally termed by sailors, " Paddy's hurricane up and down the masts and all over the decks." and heavy swelled sea, the ship rolls very much. • A sea mile. .M O'er tin: Allantie. f'J Six A. M — ;i pleasant breeze from the west, which contiiiiiefl until the afternoon, when it veered around to tiic S. VV., which enables us to set Oiir fore and aft sails as well as our square sails. Ship jjfoing eleven knots. We are now in what is termed the "Rolling Forties" (40" north lat.), where the sea is generally in a very turbu- lent and e.xcited state, skipping and Jumping like boiling water. Kvening— a drizzling rain with the wind from the saiit quarter but fresh- ening. Ship doing well. Pivine .service was held in the cabin this morning and evening, Rev. Mr. Kennedy officiating. 17///. — This morning it blows ;i strong gale from the S. W., with a very high sea. Ship going thirteen knots under all the canvas and steam she can carry — such weather as w'e arc having is quite unusual for June ; none of us anticipated such rough cf i*' weather this season of the year. Afternoon — wind shifted more to the westward, and the ship is running right before it, with the sea very high, causing her to roll and pitch heavily — notwithstanding, she proves herself to be an excellent sea boat. Most of the passen- gers are now confined to their rooms, some sea sick, and others for the want of "sea legs" to enable them to move about. Evening — passed a ship «»n larboard t.tck* under close reefed main-top sail and mizzen stay sail.f bound to the westward. * Wind off the rij^ht bow. f Hove too, making little or no hcadwnv. wmttmmmm*-^ ilic. O'er the .\tliviti( 35 c from till" west, iftcrnoon, when it b'lii<-li enables us to ivell as our square ts. We arc now in Forties" (40" north ly in a very turbu- >ing- and jumping — a drizzling rain quarter but frcsh- '•ivine service was ; and evening, Rev. ows a strong gale gh sea. Ship going canvas and steam as we are having is e of us anticipated season of the year, e to the westward, before it, with the to roll and pitch : proves herself to lost of the passen- 3onis, some sea sick, sea legs" to enable iig — passed a ship se reefed main-top fid to the westward. Night — more moderate, divine service held in the cabin, the Rev. Mr. Sprowl officiating. i8//i._Early mor-ung — still more moderate, with the wind from the N. W. Later— squally with rain and a slight fall of snow (queer weather for June) all the canvas set and the ship going eleven knots. Noon — worked the ship's latitude for the first time in eighteen yeart., the sun's alti- tude was 60 deg. 51 min., and the declination 2.^ deg. 25 min. N., which gave the latitude 52 deg. 22 min, N. Here our course was changed to E.S. E. fron> E. by S. ; difference in time between us and New York .^ hours and 15 minutes, and distance to Moville, Londonderry, 950 miles. Two p. M — passed and signalled the Montreal R. M. S. S. Neston'iui, five days out from Liverpool and four from Londonderry. Later— passed two sailing ships on the larboard tack,* bound westward. livening- squally, with rain and hail. 8 p. .M. a committee met to draft a testi- monial, testifying our appreciation of the very gentlemanly and polite attention paid us by the captain and his officers during the passage. We have now become as members of one/amily and begin to feel some regret at the prospect of a speedy separation, for notwithstanding the in- clemency of the weather, we have passed ten days together in the most sociable and agreeable manner. A difference of opinions has certainly often occurred, for instance, on politics, and the adwaA'. •Wind off the left bow. 36 O'n- th,- Atlantic. r" relative abilities of CJeiierals fJnmt, McClcllaii, Sherman and others, all f)f uhidi ocriirred in jj;ood fecliniBf and without an/yjer. 19///. — An exceedingly fine morning, neither tof) warm nor too cold, a pleasant breeze continues fnmi the N. W. with a moderate sea, the ship going from ten to eleven knots. Noon — passed and signalled the steamer Iowa, of this line, which left f JIasgo'- on the 14th inst., and Lon- donderry er- sons engaged in field labor, and who wish to evade working out in the heat of the day. Hr>w pleased the hard working man in America would he if he could, during the summer months, '-iijoy such a privilege. I have now made up my mind to go ashore at Londonderry and go from thence, via Belfast and other places, to Dublin by rail, thence by the government mail steamer to Holyhead, &c., which will give us an opportunity to see a great deal f)f Ireland, leaving Scotland until our leturn home- ward. joM.— I>ight and variable wind, ship going her course under steam, square sails furled, and fore and aft sails drawing but slightly.* Noon — pleasant with smooth sea. Distance to Moville, Londonderry. 468 miles. Afternoon— furled all sails, thev being of no use. ship going nine knots under steam alone, livening — the same. This evening a l^i laxon. of (ieneva, N. Y., by special request of tlic captain and officers of the ship, delivered a lecture in the cabin on the "Im- mortality ot lilt Soul." The subject 'was well handled by hii 1, but it was too deep for the cra- niiims of ord nary persons. The doctor is on his way to Paris and other cities of the Old World to gather more information and to dive further into metaphysics. He is no doubt an exceedingly talented man, and has, I am e beneiii. * Doing but little good. ^» o'er tin- Allantic. informed, written and published some veiy excellent works rch-.ting to the medical profes- sion. II p. M — iH'iuitiful twilisfht, most of the passenc;ers on deck. 2\st. — A fine but lijrlit breeze, and from a point which enables us to carry fore and aft sails. The captain expects to make Torry Island (forty miles from Moville) to-morrow morning from 6 to 7 o'clock, or some point on tiie west coast of Ireland earlier. Lots of Irish coast sea gulls hover around the ship now, a sure indication that we are ncuring land. Afternoon — cloudy, witli appearance of rain. Evening — beautiful twilight. Capt. Munro was presented this evening after divine service, by the Rev. Mr. Kennedy with the written testimonial signed by the cabin and second cabin passengers, expressive of the feeling they entertain for him and his officers. The presentation speech was made by Mr. Ken- nedy and replied to in a few happy remarks by the captain, on behalf of himself and officers. Res- olutions were then made that copies of the testi- monial be published in Glasgow, Londonderry and New York newspapers. 22//.— Early morning, a pleasant breeze from the same quarter. Land was seen at 5 a. m, on our starboard bow (the western coast of Ireland); at 6 A. M. sighted the island of Torry; at 1:30 passed closely to the R. M. S. S. St. Atufrew, of the Montreal line, outward bound, the passengers of which cheered us lustily as we passed by. 3 p. m. r? itlantic. published some very to the medical profes- Hvilisfiit. most of the reeze, and from a point y fore and aft sails, ike Torry Island (forty irrow morning from 6 It on the west coast of Irish coast sea gulls o\v, a sure indication . Afternoon — cloudv. Evening — beautiful \ presented this evening !ie Rev. Mr. Kennedy* al signed by the cabin fers, expressive of the him and his officers, •as made by Mr. Ken- ! happy remarks by the ielf and officers. Res- (lat copies of the testi- Tlasgow, Londonderry pleasant breeze from n-as seen at 5 a. m, on item coast of Ireland); iud of Torry; at 1:30 S. S. St. Amirew, of the und, the passengers of i we passed by. 3 p. m. 0\-i- the Atiantic. .19 Saw the steamship Britaiiia, of this line, outward bound, but too far to signal her. At 3:30 the pilot came on board, and we soon gf)t off the village of Moville, where the steam tug came alongside and took off all those going to Lon- donderry. We .soon cast off from the big ship* amid the cheers and waving of handkerchiefs by those we left behind to proceed further, and then steamed up Lough Foyle against wind and tide ; at 6 p. M. we arrived alongside the quay in Ber- ry, and were soon besieged Avith custom-house officers and porters, the one eager to examine our trunks, and the others fighting and scramb- ling among themselves, as to who should convey them to the hotels and elsewhere, which was at last settled, but not without some knock-downs between them and the police, of whom there was agood sprinkling. After some difficulty I succeed- ed in getting ourbaggage through the hands of the officers, and into the hands of a decent kind of Irishman porter, who conveyed them on a hand- cart to the Comvienial Hotel, one of the best hotels in the city of Derry, where we were soon comfortably seated at our evening repast, com- posed of beef steak, (fine and tender) fresh * Unfortunately, this fine ship, in a little more than a year afterwards, was lost. She went down when 700 miles off the Irish coast, caused by the breaking of her shaft in a heavy sea. This was on the 25th of November, 1868. and among the lost was Mr. Reed, the first officer, and the chief-engineer, Mr. MacTammany. Among the saved were ("apt. Munro, and the purser, Mr. Brown, together with some others of the crew and a few passengers. 40 O'er the Atlaittic. r cockles (small shell fish), good bread and butter ii.^d delicious tea, which was served up in good style, amid nuicli bowing and scraping, exceed ing polite attention. In my next I will give a brief account of thi ancient city and its walls. I laiti for ab( Do ing isU roi for by the the the lun of the fro abl nai hei it uitic. ud bread sind butter s served up in good nd scraping, exceed brief account of thi O'er the Atlantic. 4« LETTER III. IRELAND. LoNDONDKRRY.--" Thcrc are not," says KoM's Ire- land, "any authentic records of Londonderry, but for many centuries, up to the reign of Queen Eliz- abeth, its history is almost ecclesiastical, its name Doirc, from the old word Dru or Dreiv, signify- ing an oak wood, has been preserved. The island of Derry itself, and the entire district sur- rounding it, having been covered with a dense forest at one time, in the tenth century, it went by the additional name of Calgaic or Calgae/i, the name of some renowned warrior, signifying the oak wood of the warrior; later it went by the name of Doire-choliom-cille, or Derry-Co- lumb Kille, in honor of a Saint Columb,-a native of Tyrconnell (Donegal); still Later it went by the name of Termon-doire, or Termonderry, from the Termon or free lands belonging to an abbey erected in the neighborhood. All these names gave place in 1612 for the prefix London, hence Londonderry, when a charter was granted it in that name by James the first. The charter 42 O'er the Atlantic. li was granted to a company of London nierclm»ts, who advanced tlie necessary means to incorpo- rate tlie city. Tlie river up to the city derived its name thus : Febail-mee-Loddin, or Fare! the son of Loddin was drowned in the Lough, hence Lough-farel or Foyle, whicii means a slow flow- ing stream." At this time the town or village consisted only of one long street of huts or cabins built of rough timber and nuid, and a cell or crypt plant- ed here by St. Columb was then called Duible- regles, or Duo-Regies (black cell), and thence to Black Abbey Church, which was situated in the dense part of the grove near to the spot on which the present Roman Catholic Cathedral stands, which in 1164 was torn down and rebuilt much larger, and called Teampull-mor (more Temple); the present parish is called TVot/Z^wwy. A great portion of the present inward city* was built by the citizens of London in the reign of James the first, and fortified with extensive and substantial walls for defence, having no less than six gates or main entrances, called respectively Bishop's gate. Ship Quay gate. New gate. Ferry gate. Castle gate and Old gate. There are two bridges across the Foyle, one a veiy handsome structure, built of iron, and the other of wood. I make mention of those more particularly, because the latter, I was informed, * That part wiihin the walls. lier ere( ker ritj in 1 tur (ilic scr' mu sini whi catl the I seci wh wai life tha ver dyi res( shi] aft< out anc wai the wh m vM ^■■t^^smmmmim tk. O'er the AthntU. 4.1 London inercha«ts, means to incorpo- the city derived oddin, or Farel the the Lough, hence neans a slow flow- !age consisted only or cabins built of cell or crypt plant- [len called Duible- ;ell), and thence to ,vas situated in the ir to the spot on "atholic Cathedral 1 down and rebuilt impull-mor (more 5 caW^ATemplemore. It inward city* was »n in the reign of vith extensive and laving no less than called respectively ;, New gate, Ferry s the Foyle, one a It of iron, and the ion of those more r, I WHS informed. was built by an American in 1791, at an outlay of nearly ;^2o,ooo, or ^100,000; there are also liere a Monument and two Catltedrals, the former erected to the memory of the Rev. (Jeorge Wal- ker, the brave and undaunted defender of the city, when assailed by James the second's t lops in 1688. The cathedrals are of gothic arciutec- ture, one Protestant and the other Roman Cath- olic. I had the pleasure of attending divine service in the former on Sunday, and was very much pleased with the services, especially the singing, and the high tones of a very fine organ, which made the old building vibrate. In this cathedral hang some of the colors used during the memorable siege. In 1688 the city was besieged by James the second for one hundred and five days, during which time the inhabitants suffered much for the want of the commonest necessaries to sustain life; indeed, to such extremities were they reduced, that they had to partake of dogs, rats and other vermin to satisfy the pangs of hunger, thousands dying of actual starvation. They were eventually rescued from this terrible state by the arrival of ships of war loaded with provisions, &c., which, after some fighting with the enemy assembled outside the walls, succeeded in relieving them, and the next day after their arrival the enemy was seen to be in retreat. Thus ended one of the most terrible seiges ever known, and during which there were killed and died of hunger 44 0\r the Atlantic. about icjooo soId:*^rs and citizens. This was during the eventful war between James the sec- ond (catholic) on the one side, and William, Prince of Orange (proiestant), on tlie other. — Fath«r-in-law against son-in-law. The catholic army outside the walls was under the com- mand of Lord Aiilrim, while the city we may s-ay was under the immediate command of the Rev. George Walker, wIjo had been elected Governor, to whose indomitable will and un- flinching courage is to be attributed the success of the protestant army. There are several fine buildings here, among which are the bishop's palace, on which spot the old antiquated abbey stood in the early days of Derry; a gothic church on James street; the chapel of Ease, a plain and unassuming build- ing, erected at the expense of one bishop Barnard, in 1768, the pastor of which is paid from a fund bequeathed by the bishop for that purpose. The roman catholic cathedral stands on the spot where stood the " Teampull-mor, Temple-more, Great Church," and has in it a splendid new or- gan, and a very fine altarpiece by Haydens. It is built very much after the style of the protestant cathedral, faced with Irish granite and decorated with Scotch free-stone, and cost an enormous amount of money, the amount' I did not learn. — There are also what are called meeting-houses (churches) here, four of which are Presbyterian. A large infirmary or hospital erected in 1810. A a so fui to foi en wl ap CO ce fo: av cii on tai th; C( ha sh CI th pa w< intif. citizens. This was kveen James the sec- side, and William, nt), on tlie other. — i-law. The catholic as under the com- ile the city we may idiate command of ho had been elected itable will and un- Itributed the success ildings here, among B, on which spot the in the early days of J James street; the unassuming build- one bishop Barnard, is paid from a fund ■ that purpose. The stands on the spot -mor, Temple-more, t a splendid new or- ece by Haydens. It tyle of the protestant ranWe and decorated cost an enormous nt' I did not learn. — lied meeting-houses z\\ are Presbyterian. 1 erected in 1810. A O'er the Atlaiilk. 45 I lunatic asylum ol imposing appearance. Gwyn s tharitible institution, affording a comfortable home for male orpiians, and erected from the proceeds of a bequest made by a Mr. Gwyn, linen merchant of tiie city. Tiie Foyle and Magee colleges are beautiful buildings, and well wortli a visit. Tiie former was built by public sub- scription, while the latter was built from the funds appropriated by a Mrs. Magee of Dublin to build a college for the education of clergymen for the presbyterian church. There are also sev- eral very excellent schools licre, foremost among which is the national model school, a beautiful gothic building, and lastly a very fine building appropriated to a library, newsroom, chamber of commerce, &c. It is here is located Mehan's celebrated distillerv, so well known in America for its manufacture of the "crayter" (whiskey). I will now, before taking leave of Londonderry, avail myself of the opportunity to allude to a circumstance wiiich transpired just as we were on the eve of leaving for Belfast, and which de- tained us some considerable more time in Derry than we expected. It appears that the British Consul at New York put some document in the hands of the purser of the steamer just as the ship was leaving her df)ck, addressed to the Chief of Constabulary at Lc»ndonderry, stating that there was a man and his wife among the passengers going to Derry, who, he was informed, were Fenian emis.saries, having in their posses- 46 O'er the AtUvitU, I ft ■ v%, ■ B •V .sioniinpurtnDt duoumciits for delivery in Ireland. Wiio the man was, was not known to any person on board, but on Monday morning about break-fast time, the Commercial hotel, was besieged with gentlemen dressed in dark J green cloth, equipped a la militaire, who gfuurded strictly the hotel entrances and to every room therein ; trunks were ordered to be unlocked and emptied of their contents, and innumenible ques- tions asked, which occupied quite a time, till at last a man called Birch was inquired for, and on his being pointed out to the officer in command, he was immediately put under arrest and kept a strict watch over until everything he had with him, and about him and his wife, had undergone . a rigid search, and he had rendered a good and I satisfactory account of themselves. Nothing was found or elicited justifying their detention, so they were set at large, when the captain of the force apologised for the inconvenience and delay caused us, remarking, " but such, gentlemen, are our duties. My orders are to obey even if it breaks masters." Turning to me and politely taking my arm he led me aside, addressing me at the same time, " your name is W , sir, I believe." " Yes sir," I replied. " From the descrip- tion given me by Mr. Murray, the agent for the 'OAnchor Line, I took you to be the person. You are one of the American local agents for the line, Mr. Murray informs me." I replied, "I am." " Then sir," said he, " I will not trouble you or y ni n a ii e o V o t( f( u . .: . , .„^ifcir ?* \iiitic. S O'er the Athiiifit 47 )r delivery in Ireland, known to any person lay morning about imercial hotel, was 1 dressed in dark lUitairr, who gfuurded j and to every room d to be unlocked and id innumerable ques- l qiiite a time, till at inquired for, and on ; officer in command, der arrest and kept a rything he had with wife, had undergone rendered a good and iselves. Nothing was f their detention, so n the captain of the invenience and delay such, gentlemen, are s to obey even if it to me and politely aside, addressing me ame is W- sir, I 1. "From the descrip- ray, the agent for the be the person. You al agents for the line, I replied, "I am." 1 not trouble you or your lady to unlock your trunks, and indeed, I am of the opinion, now that I liave searched this man Birch, tiiat there are no Fenians among you, and I can only account for the Uritish consul's information, that this man must have had an enemy who was determined to persecute him on his arrival in this country."* He then, after verj' politely wishing us good bye i nd good speed, ordered his men from off the premises, and then took his leave, much to the satisfaction of us all, who began to pack up, lock up and strap down for our journey onwards, we taking our depart- ure for Belfast direct. • Tills proved to be the case, for, on his arrival home, he learned thai a clerk who had been in his employ, and with whom he had quarrelled, had done it for revenge. 48 O'er the Alhiitk. LETTER IV. IKEI.ANU, CONTINt'EU. Bf.i.kast. — We arrived here after passing tiirongli Coleraine, BaUyinoney, Antrim, Car- rickfergus and other intermediate places, a most beautiful country, Avell may it be called the " Emerald Isle," for a more delightful green than that of the fields sown with Hax, wiieat, &c., never was seen. Here and there we saw the peasantry at work, mowing hay, and others cutting turf and piling it up inneat piles to dry, large quan- tities of which is used for fuel throughout the country ; and which kindles equal if not better than coal. Belfast has a population of 130,000. " This great and astonishing city," writes Kohl, "with all its houses and inhabitants, stands upon the territory of one proprietor, the Marquis of Donegal, to whom the whole town belongs and to whom every citizen pays tribute." I informed mysflf that this nobleman's income from the town alone amounts to ^^300,000 per annum, or $1,500,000. The whole of this vast property is iiiilic. IV. riNUEl). here after passing loney, Antrim, Car- ed iate places, a most y it be called the delightful green than lax, wiieat, &c., never ve saw the peasantry others cutting turf s to dry, large quan- fuel throughout the :s equal if not better of 130,000. " This " writes Kohl, " with Its, stands upon the >r, the Marquis of lie town belongs and iribute." I informed 's income from the 00,000 per annum, or this vast property is O'fi- the Athnth. -♦9 situated on the nver Lagan, which flows into Uelfast Lough. The harbor, which is very fine, derived its name from the Irish Beal-nafarsad, which signifies the " mouth of the ford." where- on the town is situated. The city is celebrated for its manufacture of linen and poplin, which gives employment to about 60,000 persons (male and female.) The first Bible (i. e. in all Ireland), was printed here and published in 1794. It was here the oldest Irish periodical, the Weekly Mag- azine, was originally published, (see Kohl's Ire- land), and at present the following newspapers are published here : Belfast Nexvs Letter, estab- lished 1737, and issued now daily ; Morning News, Banner of Ulster, and the Ulster Obsener, all tri- weekl" papers. There are ninnerous and very fine bi lldings in Belfast, among which I will name the Museum, in College Square, in which there is a very fine collection of Irish antiqui- ties. Linen Hall, Donegal Square, erected in 1715, at a cost of ;^io,ooo, where all the business appertaining to the linen trade is managed. Ulster Hall, on Bedford street, used for public meetings and concerts, and will seat 3,000 per- sons. In this hall is a very powerfiU and excel- lent organ, and the front of the building is adorned with six very massive columns, which gives it a very imposing appearance. Then there are the Music Hall, Model School, the Govern- ment School of Design, i>nd a great number of churches, chapels, &c. The Queen's bridge, s« O'tr the Allantit. 11 which now occupies the place of the great old bridge, built in 1683, consisting then of twenty- one arches, very much damaged by Schombcrg's cannon passing over it, is now an elegant struc- ture, with its five arches of great length instead of the old twenty-one. The botanical garden we were informed is well worthy of a visit from the stranger, especially to those who arc fond of flowers, plants, &c., of which there is a very elegant and carefully selected assortment. We will now take leave of Belfast and pass through Lisburn, Lurgan, Armagh, Portadown, along the granite Mourne mountains, getting a glimpse of Rosstrevor, Warren point and Newry on our way to — DuNDALK. — This is truly an ancient town, and was at one time fortified ; the ruins of the walls still remain. Dundalk can boast of being the last place where a monarch was crowned in Ireland. This was Robert Bruce, of Scotland, who, at the Irish request, came over after the battle of Ban- nock-burn. He landed with a large army and took Dundalk by storm, "and resided here in great splendor until 1318," (Kohl's his. I.) when it was retaken after a dreadful battle, or series of battles by the English, and Bruce killed. There are some distilleries, breweries and flour mills located here, and the principal trade is done with Liverpool. The public buildings are a fine old Parish church, a handsome Roman Catholic faiitic. O'er Ihf Atlmtk. 5« lace of the great old iting then of twenty- [iged by Schombcrg's low an elegant struc- great length instead were informed {swell ; stranger, especially lowers, plants, &c., of legant and carefully of Belfast and pass Armagh, Portadown, mountains, getting a Ten point and Newry an ancient town, and he ruins of the walls bf)ast of being the last crowned in Ireland. Scotland, who, at the :r the battle of Ban- th a large army and and resided here in (Kohl's his. I.) when ful battle, or series of Bruce killed, s, breweries and flour irincipal trade is done : buildings are a fine ome Roman Catholic ell I. ' -.bylerian and other incclinfj^ lioiibus, Nationui aank, &c. The seat of Lord Rodcn is open to the curious, the mansion is a very fine turrettcd building and the grounds are hoaiitifully laid out. Having no time to spare to visit the interior I have no further description to give of this fine mansion. Leaving Dundalk we proceeded dii oiu* way, passing by Tara, the niost interesting^ spot in all Ireland. " Here the magnificent palace of Kincf Cormac and his brave champions sKjod. The place is called Tcnar from Teagh-mor, the Great House, or Tea^h-mor-raj^h, the great house of the King." (K. H, I.) The poet Moore sings uf '• Tara's Hall': " The harp that once through Tara's lialls The soul of music $hcd, Now h-ings as mute on Tar.i's walls, As if that soul were fled." On we sped pass Dangan castle the birth place of the hero of Waterloo (the late Duke of Wel- lington) and Duleck (Damhleac) i. e. the stone house, where the first stone church in Ireland was built by i. P.itrick in the fifth century. Leaving behind us Slane and Nen- Grande, we arrive in — Droohkda. This ancient lown is situated on the banks of the river Boyne, so celebrated in Irish history, coupled with t;ie names of James the second, and William, Prince of Orange. It has a population of probably 20,000 inhabitants, Si' ■ r 5 = O'er thf Atlantic. (me-half of which are Roman Catholics, and lies in the counties of Meath and Louth. The town was at one time surrounded by a wall, portions of which still remain, as also two of tiie gateways, fine old ruins, Drogheda is directly opposite Liverpool, distance 135 miles, and has a very good harbor. In the days of the English Commonwealth, Cromwell lead an army in person against this town and defeated the garrison. Two thousand persons under arms were by his orders put to the sword, including the Governor, Sir Authur Astan — a blot in the life of Cromwell never to be erased. On the north side of the river stands an Obelisk, erected on the battle field of the Boyne, which took place on the first of July, 1690, between the Prince of Orange and his father-in-law, James the second, when the latter was defeated and obliged to fly as fast as horse could carry him to a seaport down the coast, where on his arrival at a castle he accosted the lady who received him, with '" Madam, your Irishmen run like deer." "So I would suppose, from the appearance of your Majesty, who it appears has run much faster." The Obelisk marks the spot where William commenced the attack, as also where Schomberg, the military commander of Ireland, was killed. We will now bid adieu to Drogheda, the scene of so much merciless slaughter and cruelty, and push on through the quaint and old r mtic. man Catholics, and th and Louth. The rrounded by a wall, lain, as also two of lins, Drogheda is , distance 135 miles, »or. In the days of J, Cromwell lead an > town and defeated sand persons under put to the sword, ir Authur Astan — a 1 never to be erased. er stands an Obelisk, :he Boyne, which took r, 1690, between the father-in-law, James tv was defeated and se could carry him to here on his arrival at ly who received him, tien run like deer." tn the appearance of )ears has run much irks the spot where attack, as also where mmander of Ireland, dieu to Drogheda, ciless slaughter and rh the quaint and old O'er the Atlantic. 53 fashioned place, Balbriggan, so celebrated for it« manufacture of stockings, socks, &c., remarkable for their fineness and durability. One of its factories has been in existence since 1797, and employs 200 hands. On we go at a furious rate through Swords to the village of Malahidc, where we get a view, while the iron horse draws breath, of the fine old castle, the residence of Lord Talbot de Malahide, erected principally during the reign of Henry second, and also an abbey of very ancient date. Hark ! The guard's shrill whistle is heard again, a signal for the train to move on, and in a few minutes we are in the great metropolis of Ireland, i. e. the railway station, amid guards and porters lustily calling out, " Dublin ! Dublin ! ! Dublin ! ! !" several times over, and the noise of luggage cars coursing »»p and down the platforms. More anon. \\ 54 O'er the Atlaniie. l! r i^ LETTER V. IRELAND, CONTINUEn. Dublin. — Here we arrived late at night and were quickly driven in a cab to \\\t Angel Hotel, on Inn's ^uay, where we were recommended to go by a gentleman wliose acquaintance we made on board the train from Newry. We found it not exactly ',vhat we would liiie, but when at breakfast the next morning, in the coffee room, we had the pleasure of meeting and making the acquaint- ance of a Mr. Siiuse and his daughter, from Troy, N. Y., who, like ourselves, were'*afther taking a look at ould Ireland." He was a native of the Green Isle, but had been absent for many years, and had recently been on a visit to his aged mother in the south. They had just come from the lakes of Killarncy, and were on their way across the channel to visit Paris. We passed a very pleasant time together, for our tastes and ideas were similar.* ,, • I have had the pleasure of several interviews with Mr. S. since, and also of making the acquaintance of the other members of his lamilv. W H m 5 v« a ai ca al V ni di C5 ai a] u s< T a h e b u rj if.' I c/V. ;uEn. late at night and to the Atigel Hotels e recommended to laintance we made We found it not t when at breakfast J room, we had the ing the acquaint- is daughter, from Ives, were " afther He was a native n absent for many \ a visit to his aged ad just come from vcre on their way iris. We passed a "or oiu- tastes and tl interviews with Mr. iiaintance of the other O'er the Atlantic. 55 I The city can be reached in eleven hours from I London via Holyhead in North Wales, from I which point the Royal mail steamers leave thrice daily for Kingston, thence on here by train, an expeditious route, which is quite a convenience to the traveling public. I will now proceed to give you a brisf account of the metropolis of Ireland. It is situated on the banks of the river LiflFey, which river runs through the centre of the city. Here much of the celebrated Irish poplins are manufactured, which can be purchased at from 5 to 6s. per yard ($1.50 in gold), and here are very many fine buildings, public and commercial, a ♦e'" of which we visited, and among which, first ai'l ^ »niost, I will name the government house, cast . chapel, (the Lord Lieutenant's place of abc ■ ; We were, in return for a small fee, politely shown through the various state apart- ments, by the lady and gentleman in charge during his Excellency's absence in London. The castle itself is not of a very imposing appear- ance. It was built for the defense of the peace- able inhabitants against the aggressions of unruly neighbors, for nothing but strength seems to be their idea in its construction. There are two towers, one called the Bedford and the ortier the Birmingham ; no access can be had to either of those, for they are used as gov- ernment archives. The Viceregal chapel, of beautiful external and internal appearance, is used by the Lord Lieutenant and his household. 5^ O'er the Atlantic. r \ ., %\' fe'- Around the gallery, are carved the arms of the various Lord Lieutenants from 1173 to 1814, while those of later date are on the painted win- dows. All the se,its, desks, etc., are of richly carved oak, and over the altar window, which represents the passion, beautifully blended in colors, are elegant figures of Faith, Hope and Charity. We pass from this beautiful little place of worship, and enter into the Viceregal apart- ments. The first room is the Presence Chamber, containing the throne of the Representative of Royalty, which we had the honor of seating ourselves on, a circumstance, rest assured, that did not improve our condition religiously, morally or politically. This room is richly fur- nished with hangings embroidered with gold. The next room we were taken into was the Council Chamber, which contains rare and beau- tiful portraits in oil, of Viceroys, commencing with the Marquis Corn wal lis, tlie same Corn- wallis who had the honor of surrendering his sword, many years ago, to the " Father of his country," — the immortal Washington, after which, in 1800, he was made Viceroy of Ireland, with the title of Marquis. From this room we passed into the private drawing room, gorgeously furnished, and lastly into St. Patrick's hall, used occasionally as a ball room. On the ceiling is a large painting of George III, supported by justice and liberty, St. Patrick poaching to the native Irish, and the submission of the Irish ^ ~ ' yv \intic, ved the arms of the from 1 1 73 to 1814, ; on the painted win- s, etc., are of richly altar window, which dutifully blended in of Faith, Hope and • beautiful little place the Viceregal apart- ic Presence Chamber, lie Representative of le honor of seating :e, rest assured, that >ndition religiously, s room is richly fur- Toidered with gold, taken into was the ntains rare and beau- iccroys, commencing ill is, tlie same Corn- of surrendering his the " Father of his uhington, after which, I'iceroy of Ireland, From this room we ng room, gorgeously- . Patrick's hall, used On the ceiling is a I III, supported by ick preaching to the iiission of the Irish O'er the AtlantU. S? chiefs to Henry II, one of whom is in the act of delivering tlic keys of the fortress to Henry. After going through some utlier apartments, richly furnished, but of no note, we took our leave, and drove to see the exterior of St. Pat- rick's cathedral.* This venerable pile is situated on the spot where St. Patrick had a well to bap- tize his converts, and there built a place of worship, which stood in 890. The present cathedral was partly erected in 1190, for a por- tion of it was destroyed by fire in 1362, after which much was added to it by Archbishop Minot in 1370; the present steeple is of this date. Mr. (iuiness, the great Dublin brewer, generously expended, since i860, upon this vener- able building, upwards of ;^ioo,ooo, or $500,000 ; thus it has been nearly restored to its original beauty. Taking our departure from here we w^ent to the general post office on Sackvillc street, and nearly opposite the Nelson monu- ment. The post office is a beautiful building, surmounted by figures of Hibernia, Mercy and Fidelity. The Nelson monument is a fluted column of 121 feet high, and cost $40,000, raised among Irishmen who admired the naval genius of the hero of so many battles, and who ended his brilliant career with that of Trafalgar. Wo afterwards visited the custom house, Trinity college and other public buildings of imposing and very fine architecture. • It was not open to visitors at that time. S8 O'er the Atlantic. Next day we drove to Phoenix park in a jaunt- ing car, whereon you are seated bacit to back, over the wheels, a peculiar vehicle to Ireland alone. There we witnessed a sham fight, and a review of the troops stationed here, a very magnificent sight. There were upwards of 3,000 men underarms, the music of the bands was very fine, and the move- ments of both men and horses remarkably pre- cise. Indeed, they seemed to move like machine- ry, and a delightful place is Phoenix park. We drove from there to the Zoological gardens to sec the wild beasts, thence to Glasnevin cemetery, where there are monuments equal to any I have seen in Greenwood, New York. On our arrival we were not long before our attention was attracted to the spot ivhere rest the remains of the great Daniel O'Connell. They but tempor- arily rest where they are at present, which is a vault with an iron gateway ; the massive sarco- phagus rests on stands, with the large wreath of evergreens and flowers used at the funeral laying on top, and still looking remarkably fresh and green. The name " O'Connell " is rudely written on a board over the doorway. When surveying the place I could not avoid remarking to niy com- panions that " Here, indeed, lies Ireland's great agitator, whose memory will remain in the hearts of his countrymen as green as the fields of their native Isle." Soon the remains will be removed to their last resting place, now in course of con- struction, over which is a granite round tower "/(•. O'er the Atlantic. 59 ix park in a Jaunl- back tu back, over ; to Ireland alone, ht, and a review of ' magnificent sight, en underarms, the ine, and the move- s remarkably pre- jove like machine- 'hoenix park. We :ical gardens to sec asnevin cemetery, qual to any I have I. On our arrival >ur attention was ist the remains of They but tempor- jresent, which is a le massive sarco- le large wreath of the funeral laying arkably fresh and ' is rudely written When surveying irking to niy com- es Ireland's great main in the hearts the fields of their will be removed to in course of con- inite round tower 160 feet high, erected in the old tower style (i. e. the old Irish round tower.) It is anything but beautiful, but can be seen for miles away as marking: the spo< ''iCr" ts all that was ever mortal of the grea agitata The space around the tower is surrounded wii^i -i deep moat, and in the vault, opening into this moat, are the remains of Steele, O'Connell's staunch friend. Above the door is written " Honest Tom Steele." We passed away from here, and next visited the tomb of Curran and other past celebrities, who have gone to that distant home never to return among us again. Leaving here, we proceeded to the city, passing on our way the celebrated Mount Joy prison, wherein iwere incarce- rated the Fenian chiefs, McCafferty, Burke, O'Brien* and others of the brotherhood. I cer- tainly felt very much for those unfortunates, doomed as they are to pass the remainder of their days within prison walls, subject to the coarse ad- dress and comniand of their keepers. McCafferty I had seen in New York, when making his speech as special emoy from Stephens, before a Jones' Wood audience. Poor fellow, he was then full of hope, and his proud and defiant eye glistened when recounting, as he affirmed, his country's wrongs. After visiting St. Stephen's Green, where there are fine statutes of George II. and of the Eari of • O'Brien has been released on certain conditions, and 1 have since made his acquaintance at Troy, N. Y, 6o O'fr the AtlanHi. 4- m -MM 'I Eglintun, once Viceroy of Ireland, the bank u t Ireland, and other places of note, we prepared to leave the Emerald Isle to cross over to Wales. But a tew remarks about Ireland and its people will not be inappropriate before taking my leave of their country. Irkland, no doubt, is one of the finest and most fertile countries in the world, and abounds with precious minerals which, with its tla.x, linen and <*ther trade, is sufficient to supply thrice the labor- ing community thereat present: but while the rich Irish nobility or property holders will persist in going abroad to spend that which they should spend among , their tenantry and in the country generally, but poor hopes remain for Ireland ; for if poverty, of wiiich I must acknowledge I saw no more there than I have elsewhere,* is to be attributed to any cause whatever, it is decidedly to the apathy of tlie rich and prodigal Irish land owners, who suck the life blood out of their tenantry by way of high rents, which money they lavish in England and on the continent of Europe. Sucli men — men of no enterprise, who live for themselves alone, could do more, if they so willed it,for the pecuniary, intellectual and mor- al prosperity of the inhabitants of the soil from which they gather the means to live in splendor and idleness, and in return f<)r which they would have the gratitude, love and respect of a gener- ous and warm-hearted people. • The greatest poverty exists in the Southern provinces. 'antii-. Ireland, the bank ut note, we prepared to cross over to Wales. eland and its people ;lore taking my leave of the finest and most id, and abounds with ith its Hax, linen and ipply thrice the labor- esent : but while the ty holders will persist lat which they should •y and in the country remain for Ireland ; must acknowledge I ve elsewhere,* is to be latever, it is decidedly id prodigal Irish land e blood out of their rents, which money rl on the continent of of no enterprise, who ould do more, if they ', intellectual and mor- tants of the soil from uis to live in splendor f<»r which they would d respect of a gener- jle. 1 the Southern provinces. Off the Allatitif. fi> Taking the train one fine morning early to Kingston, by the way a very pretty place, where we got on board a Royal mail steamer to break- fast, we were in the course of a few hours safely landed on the other side of the Irish channel— (North Wales). 6a O'n Ihe AtlantU: r LETTER VI. WALES. HoLVHKAn. — Here we staid only for a short time so as to view the pier or breakwater in course of erection and nearly complete, which is i,ooo feet long with a light house on the extreme end. This vast piece of masonry is to protect and shelter vessels while at anchor from the fury of wind and sea. Three grovernment steamers for the purpose of carrying mails and passengers to and from Ireland leave here daily for Kingston. The immense sum of ^^700,000 has been expended by the British government in constructing and improving the harbor. The Welsh name of the town is Caer Gybi, i. e. the Fort of Cyb', the latter word being the name of a certain saint who died here, the old church is dedicated to that patron saint. On a rock three miles away is a light house, called the South Stack. The light is produced from twenty-one lamps, with powerful reflectors, and is 212 feet above low water mark. This light house is erected on a rock separated from the main land »//V. d'et the- Atlantic. <3 '1. d only for a short or breakwater in complete, which is )use on the extreme sonry is to protect t anchor from the rhree g^overnment carrying mails and id leave here daily ! sum of ;^7oo,ooo itish government in the harbor. The Caer Gybi, i. e. the I being the name of ;, the old church is On a rock three ;, called the South d from twenty-one 3rs, and is 212 feet (lis light house is "rom the main land by a narrow channel, over which is a splendid iron suspension bridge, and the pathway from the road above to the brid)3;e is composed of 365 steps, one for every day in the year. Pen-Caer- (rybi, or Holyhi'tid mountain, is upward of 700 feet high, from the top of which I was informed, a splendid view of the town and neighborhood can be obtained; but I had not the remotest idea of carrying upwards of two hundred pounds of flesh to such height. Before leaving we obtained a good view of an obelisk, erected in the distance to the memory of a Captain in command of t>ne of the mail steamer*;, who lost his life by being drowned, the particulars of which I did not learn. Caer-Gybi is of some considerable antiquity marks of which still remain. For instance, the old church, where once stood an ancient monastery, is surrounded with a wail of Roman construction six feet thick. We left here by the through express train for Chester, obtaining a good sight as we steamerl along of the column erected in honor of the Marquis of Anglesey, one of the heroes of Waterloo, on which field he lost a leg, also, the far-famed tubular bridge across the Menai strait, through which we passed, and then a tolerable good view of the Menai suspension bridge in the distance. On we went at a terrible speed through Bel- mont tunnel 726 yards long, Bangor tunnel 6« Amh.< ///,• AtlijntU. i.ooo yards lung, and several other smaller ones getting in the nieaminK', tolerahly good views u\ I'enrhyn castle,* the residence ot the Hon. Cnl lulward (Jordon Douglass Pennant, M. 1'. Beaiimarris on the Anglesey coast and other places of note, until we arrived on ('onway marsh. Away we went with a screech from the iron horse through ("onway tunnel, under the ancient walls of the castle, emerginj( from which, we were on the look out for the Old Castle, which wc had the pleasure of seeing, although traveling at the rate of 60 miles per hour. Conway castle is celebrated in Welsh history, and spoken of as being the finest at its time in the then known world. Its walls are f immense thickness, with eight circular towers, and was erected in 1284 by Edward the first. It was not only the most magnificent, but the most formidable, certainly it was in all Britain, Edward and his beautiful consort, Ellen, (mother of the first Prince of Wales), spent Christma-i merrily in this fortress. Apropos of the Prina of Wales. This Prince, so desirable to the natives of that day, was born irj Carnarvon castle, and the motto, " Ich Dien," (I serve), is .i corruption of " Eich Dyn," (your man.) King Edward, (Edouard or lorweth), then King of England, to pacify the Welsh, wJio were • In this neighborhood are located the celebrated " Bur- hyn Slate guarries," which employ some 3,000 men and tlontic. 0\i the AthvilU. 57 il other smaller oiif>, lerably good views m -•nc-eot tlic Hon. Col ss Pennant, M. 1' sey coast and other arrived on Conwiiv viti) a screech from 1 Conway tunnel the castle, emerginj{ look out for the Old pleasure of seeing, rate of 6o miles per ■elebrated in Welsh jcing the finest at its id. Its walls are ot gill circular towers, Edward the first. It lificent, but the most vas in all Britain, nsort, Ellen, (mother ;s), spent Christmas jropos of the Prina 5o desirable to the born in Carnarvon Dien," (I serve), is a (your man.) King •eth), then King ot Welsh, who were ed the celebrated " Bur- ny some 3,000 men and chiefs to Henry II, one of whom is in the act of delivering ihe keys (»f the fortress to Henry. After going through some other apartment>, richly furnished, but of no note, we took < Next day we drove to Phoenix park in a jaunt- ing car, whereon you are seated back to back, over the wheels, a peculiar vehicle to Ireland alone. There we witnessed a sham fight, and a review of the troops stationed here, fi very magnificent sight. There were upwards of 3,000 men underarms, the music of the bands was very fine, and the move- ments of both men and horses remarkably pre- cise. Indeed, they seemed to move like machine- ry, and a delightful place is Phoenix park. We drove from there to the Zoological gardens to sec the wild beasts, thence to Glasnevin cemetery, where there are monuments equal to any I have seen in Greenwood, New York. On our arrival we were not long before our attention was attracted to tiie spot where rest the remains of the great Daniel O'Connell. They but tempor- arily rest where they are at present, which is a vault with an iron gateway; the massive sarco- phagus rests on stands, with the large wreath of evergreens and flowers used at the funeral laying on top, and still looking remarkably fresh and green. The name " O'Connell " is rudely written on a board over the doorway. When surveying the place I could not avoid remarking to my com- panions that "Here, indeed, lies Ireland's great agitator, whose memory will remain in the hearts ot his countrymen as green as the fields of their native Isle." Soon the remains will be removed to their last resting place, now in course of con- struction, over which is a granite round tower itic. nix park in a jaunt- d back to back, over e to Ireland alone, fht, and a review of y magnificent sight, len underarms, the fine, and the move- !s remarkably pre- nove like machine- Phoenix park. We jical gardens to sec lasnevin cemetery, squal to any I have l{. On our arrival 5ur attention was JSt the remains of They but tempor- present, which is a ie massive sarco- tie large wreath of the funeral laying arkably fresh and ' is rudely written When surveying irking to my com- es Ireland's great main in the hearts the fields of their *vill be removed to in course of con- inite round tower Cer the Atlantic. 59 [ I t6o feet high, erected in the old tower style (i. e. I the old Irish round tower.) It is anything but I beautiful, but can be seen for miles away as I marking the spot where rests all that was ever mortal of the great agitator. The space around the tower is surrounded with a deep moat, and in the vault, opening into this moat, are the remains of Steele, O'Connell's staunch friend. Above the door is written "Honest Tom Steele." We passed away from here, and next visited the tomb of Curran and other past celebrities, who have gone to that distant home never to return among us again. Leaving here, we proceeded to the city, passing on our way the celebrated Mount Joy prison, wherein Lwere incarce- rated the Fenian chiefs, McCafferty, Burke, O'Brien* and others of the brotherhood. I cer- tainly felt very much for those unfortunates, doomed as they are to pass the remainder of their days within prison walls, subject to the coarse ad- dress and command of their keepers. McCafferty I had seen in New York, v/hen making his speech as special envoy from Stephens, before a Jones' Wood audience. Poor fellow, he was then full of hope, and hiS" proud and defiant eye glistened when recounting, as he affirmed, his country's wrongs. After visiting St. Stephen's Green, where there are fine statutes of George II. and of the Earl of • O'Brien has been released on certain conditions, and I have since made his acquaintance at Troy, N, Y. 6o O'rr the Aflantk. Eglinton, once Viceroy of Ireland, the bank of Ireland, and other places of note, we prepared to leave the Emerald Isle to cross over to Wales. But a few remarks about Ireland and its people will not be inappropriate before taking my leave of their country. Ireland, no doubt, is one of the finest and most fertile countries in the world, and abounds with precious minerals which, with its flax, linen and other trade, is sufficient to supply thrice the labor- ing community thereat present; but while the rich Irish nobility or property holders will persist in going abroad to spend that which they should spend among .their tenantry and in the country generally, but poor hopes remain for Ireland; for if poverty, of which I must acknowledge I .saw no more there than I have elsewhere,* is to be attributed to any cause whatever, it is decidedly to the apathy of the rich and prodigal Irish land owners, who suck the life blood out of their tenantry by way of iiigh rents, which money they lavish in England and on the continent of Europe. Such men— men of no enterprise, who live for themselves alone, could do more, if they so willed it,for the pecuniary, intellectual and mor- al prosperity of the inhabitants of the soil from Avhich they gather the means to live in splendor and idleness, and in return for which they would have the gratitude, love and respect of a gener- ous and warm-hearted people. •The greatest poverty exists in the Southern provinces. fi Is ( mtic. Ireland, the bank of note, we prepared to TOSS over to Wales. ;land and its people fore taking my leave }f the finest and most d, and abounds with ith its flax, linen and pply thrice the labor- sent ; but while the y holders will persist it which they should *' and in the country remain for Ireland ; must acknowledge I e elsewhere,* is to be itever, it is decidedly i prodigal Irish land blood out of their rents, which money on the continent of if no enterprise, who uld do more, if they intellectual and mor- ints of the soil from IS to live in splendor or which they would respect of a gener- e. the Southern provinceis. O'er the Atlantk, «* Taking the train one fine morning early to Kingston, by the wJ\y a very pretty place, where we got on board a Royal mail steamer to break- fast, we were in the course of a few hours safely landed on the other side of the Irish channel— (North Wales), r ^* O'er the AtlafitU. LETTER VI. WALES. Hoi.YHEAD.— Here we staid only for a short time so as to view the pier or breakwater in course of erection and nearly complete, which is 1,000 feet long with a light house on the extreme end. This vast piece of masonry is to protect and shelter vessels while at anchor from the fury of wind and sea. Three government steamers for the purpose of carrying mails and passengers to and from Ireland leave here daily" tor Kingston. The immense sum of ;^7oo,ooo has been expended by the British government in constructing and improving the harbor. The Welsh name of the town is Caer Gybi, i. e. the Fort of Cybi, the latter word being the name of a certain saint who died here, the old church is dedicated to that patron saint. On a rock three miles away is a light house, called the South Stack. The light is produced from twenty-one lamps, with powerful reflectors, and is 212 feet above low water mark. This light house is erected on a rock separated from the main land am ins am Re Cli ak Mi Wi fai thi go dii m( ^^r. Jt^m m m*iammt m ^m ««//<■. VI. id only for a short r or breakwater in y complete, which is louse on the extreme asonry is to protect It anchor from the Three government carrying mails and nd leave here daily e sum of ;^7oo,ooo •itish government in ; the harbor. The Caer Gybi, i. e. the d being the name of e, the old church is t. On a rock three e, called the South 3d from twenty-one ors, and is 212 feet his light house is from the main land O'er the Atlantic. «S f ■ by a narrow channel, over which is a splendid I iron suspension bridge, and the pathway from the road above to the bridge is composed of 365 steps, one for every day in the year. Pen-Caer- Gybi, or Holyhead mountain, is upward of 700 feet high, from the top of which I was informed, a splendid view of the town and neighborhood can be obtained ; but I had not the remotest idea of carrying upwards of two hundred pounds of flesh to such height. Before leaving we obtained a good view of an obelisk, erected in the distance to the memory of a Captain in command of one of the mail steamers, who lost his life by being drowned, the particulars of which I did not learn. Caer-Gybi is of some considerable antiquity, marks of which still remain. For instance, the old church, where once stood an ancient monastery, is surrounded with a wall of Roman construction six feet thick. We left here by the through express train for Chester, obtaining a good sight as we steamed along of the column erected in honor of the Marquis of Anglesey, one of the heroes of Waterloo, on which field he lost a leg, also, the far-famed tabular bridge across the Menai strait, through which we passed, and then a tolerable good view of the Menai suspension bridge in the distance. On we went at a terrible speed through Bel- mont tunnel 726 yards long, Bangor tunnel ■'i_ii!r*s.i',ii.»; ■.;'fii,-;f>ft~4iJ'»ai)|J«yifiaSf f An Wevi qiiisof '' residenc doing so of a Stat iiiforme< Eton hal principa park, a t entrance ;^ 1 0,000 the mar shown tl ance fo: and gra being 01 statuary. The wall After go open to the stabl &c., but 1 stables, c One of charge a O'lr the Athntic. 67 ling it is in an IS also a: ^ the St gate, North ate. A great ;n found here, ;reafter. The le fifth century I rule. In the •m them and shortly after- s and nearly nqueror, after- lephew, Hugh said, repaired eside in. The of Henry HI, which he has, rvon received 39. The first III,andint!:e Charles the taken by the lich time the and from a les, King of o miles around ent here, where lilts, who were t. (B.G.) England, witnessed the defeat of Ills army and tlie success of tlie Parliamentary armv, on which is the following inscription . Kino Chari.ks siood ox this Tower, September 24th, 1645, ^(y And saw his army defeated on Rowton Moor, i/ We visited Eton hall, the residence of the Mar- qiiisof Westminister, one of the most magnificent residences in England. A charge is made for doing so. Tickets of admission can be obtained of a stationer in Ciiester, which money we were informed is applied to charitable purposes. Eton hall is about four miles from Chester, tlie ■principal part of the distance is that through the park, a beautiful drive. Grosvenor Lodge, at the entrance to the park, was erected at a cost of ;^io,ooo. It is of Gothic architecture, as also is tlie mansion. On our arrival there we were shown through the house by a person in attend- ance for that purpose, which was gorgeous and grand, furniture, tapestry and ornaments being of the richest kind, and the paintings, statuary, were by . the most celebrated masters. The walls and ceilings were beautifully frescoed. After going through that part of the interior open to the public, we were taken and shown the stables, carriage houses, carriages, harness, &c., but no horses, there being none kept in the stables, owing to the family's absence in London. One of the under gardeners then took us in charge and escorted us over the gardens and r-i^f^^----*-- «8 OVr Me Athntif. pleasure grounds, tlie latter beautifully and artistically laid out with all kinds of Howers. Before taking our leave we were shown a Gothii temple recently erected lor the reception of a Roman altar, found, as 1 remarked heretofore near Chester, and some .uosaic pavement from the palace of the Emperor Tiberius. We then, after feeing his Lordship's servants, which they always look for, and for which they bow and scrape a great deal, touching their hats or pulling at a lock of hair every time they speak to you or answer a question, quite a novelty to Americans, bade adieu to this magnificent mansion with its gorgeous furniture and rare works of art, and drove back to Chester, to take a look at the old Cathedral ; but before giving you an account of what we saw there, I will give you some idea of the immense wealth of the Marquis of Westmin- ster, I was informed by a gentleman, whose acquaintance I made, that this nobleman is actually in receipt of $2,250,000 per annum, which will shortly be more than trebled by the passing into his hands on the expiration of leases, immense and very valuable property in London. The whole of Belgravia, Pimlico. Westminster, and the greater part of Fulham. will pass into his hands. Those places consti- tute the greater portion of the " West End," the finest and most aristocratic part of London, thus adding an immense and most incalculable amount of wealth to his present income, which altogether beautifully and duds of flowers. ; shown a Gothic e reception of a iirkeci heretofore pavement from erius. We then, •ants, which they li they bow and ir hats or pulling speak to you or ty to Americans, nansion with its orks of art, and L look at the old >u an account of ou some idea of uis of Westmin- ;ntleman, whose s nobleman is 300 per annum, n trebled by the 2 expiration of ble property in jravia, Pimlico. )art of Fulhani, E places consti- West End," the )( London, thus Iculable amount i-hich altogether O'er the AtUtittU. 69 is not less tiian iivc dollars per niiuute, a sum <|uite sufficient for any economical and respect- able American to live and die on. We will now leave this old fellow to roll in his wealth and proceed to give a brief account of the very imcient Chester cathedral. It stands on the site nf the Saxon Monastery of St. Wesburgli, founded in 660. The present building, or rather |)arts of it, was built in the reign of Henry the ()(li, 7th and 8th. We were very much struck with the beatity and imposing appearance of this venerable old structure, with its massive and crumbling walls. We were. shown a very exten- sive and elaborate piece of needle work, many centuries old, an altar screen, and the elaborate carving of the wood work must be seen to be ap|)reciated, when it cannot fail to command admiration ; and among many other and curious relics, we were shown a copy of the scriptures written on parchment with the pen in 11 13, and in an excellent state of preservation. After feeing the venerable and polite old gentleman who accompanied us aroiuid the building, wc took our leave, and requested Mr. Bow-and- srrape (the driver), which was answered with a ^'j11 of the hair and a few affected gutteral sounds, to drive us back to the hotel. Fatigued we certainly were, but satisfied with what we had seen. So after partaking of a hearty meal we retired to our rooms and were soon locked in the hands of Morpheifs. 70 O'er t/i,- Atlantic, Bflorc leaving CJiester I must sav a little of the old town itself, especially of some of the old buildings still standing in some parts of the city These old structures h.ive a very picturesque appearance with their gable end's toward the street, high pointed roofs and small diamond pane' windows (all framed buildings) with elaborate, carved gables in good preservation, built so that you can wail: along the sidewalks with the second floor ove- your head, thus protectinir pedestrians from the inclemency of the weather. Wise old fellows were our forefathers. There but little remains of the castle, although at one time a noble structure. Large barracks have been erected adjoining the old tower which contains 50,000 stand of arms, besides IJ5 pieces of ordnance. There are several fine public buildings, among which I may name the Shire hall(ccurt house), the Grosvenor and Queen's hotel, and the railway station, the latter^a very large and commodious building, built of hard dark-faced brick. The station is the central terminus for the London & Northwestern, Birk- enhead & Chester, Lancashire & Chester, and Chester & Holyhead Railways. Thus there is communication with all parts of the United Kingdom. Opposite the barracks is an eques- trian statue, partially uncovered, (it not being yet made public), who it represents I did not learn. Whoever it may be, it is a fine work of mmm O'er the Atlantic. 7' List sny a little of r some of the old : parts of the city, very picturesquf ends toward tlic lall diamond pane i) with elaborate- tion, built so that ewalks with the thus protectinjr >' of the weather, ithers. 3 castle, although Large barracks old tower which esides 125 pieces Tal fine public name the Shire lorand Queen's iie latter a very r, built of hard, is the central thwestern, Birk- & Chester, and Thus there is of the United ks is an eques- I, (it not being sents I did not i a fine work of art, and will add much to the appearance of the city. • Leaving this ancient place we took our scats in the Shrewsbury and Chester Railway cars, passing through Wrexham, where we had an excellent view of the old church and its tower, erected in 1742. The latter is 134 feet high and of exquisite workmanship, decorated with statues of various saints placed in niches from top to bottom. Away we went at the rate of fifty miles an hour past Ruabon and Llangollen, the latter the birth place of /enny Jones, the maid of Llangollen, rendered so famous in song. We see Chirk castle in the distance, founded in 1013. In this castle is the state bed in which Charles the first slept, and a beautiful cabinet presented by him to the then residing family. The adjacent valley is the scene of conflict between the armies of Henry the second, and that of the Welsh Prince, Owain Gwynedd, the brave Prince of 1165. Still on at great speed leaving Oswestry to the right until we arrive at Shrewsbury. 7* O'tr the Atlantic. LETTER VII. WALES, CONTINUED. Shrewsburv.— Here we stay but an hour, affording us but a short time to look around. Its ancient name was Pengwern, and is situated upon the banks of the river Severn. William the Conqueror gave this town to Roger de Mont- gomery, one of his followers, together with the title of earl, who erected here a strong baronial castle. In 1403 a desperate battle was fought near the town between the forces of Henry IV and that of the rebel Earl of Northumberland, under the command of Lord Percy, surnamed Hotspur, when the death of the latter gave the victory to the Royalists. The old buildings are similar to those described at Chester, and are in an excellent state of preservation. Some of the Royal charters were granted by Richard I and Charles I. P'lannel, flax, thread and linen lacto- nes are located there, doing a thriving trade. Taking our seats once more in the cars we left this ancient town and proceeded on our journey through Ludnow, getting a glimpse of the old castl until H the very ed b; in II year; favoi great stanc greer whicl feetl A dm falga: Hann< popu! , Ab situat moun neigh mona conqii are tl feet ; Welsl side o "Ch* EnglisI Welsh S e WT a trr i r • but an hour, J look around. and is situated vern. William ■ioger de Mont- fether with the strong baronial tie was fought s of Henry IV Drthumbcrland, ircy, surnamed latter gave the 1 buildings are ster, and are in Some of the Richard I and nd linen iV-cto- ving trade, he cars we left n our journey pse of the old i O'er the Atlantic. 73 castle as we went past, u\\ througii Leamington, until we arrived in — Hereford, — This fine old city is situated on the banks of the river Wye. The cathedral, a very classic building, dates from 825. Destroy- ed by fire in 1074, it was rebuilt and completed in 1 120. Its fine tower was added to it about 1 20 years ago. In this city was born Nell Gwyn, the favorite of Charles II, and David Garrick, the great actor, in the year 17 16, in an old house now standing, called the Angel Inn. On the castle green, where formerly stood an ancient castle, of which no vestige remains, is a slonecolumn sixty feet high, erected to commemorate the victories o Admiral Lord Viscount Nelson, the hero of Tra- falgar. Several factories for the manufacture of flannel, g'oves, hats. &c., are at work, and the population is about 17,000. On we went to — Abergavenny.— This pretty little town is situated near the river Usk, surrounded by high mountains, and was formerly walled in. In the neighborhood are the ruins of an old castle and monastery, built some time after the Norman conquest. The high mountains in the vicinity are the Sugarloaf, 1,852 high; Blarenge, 1,720 feet ; Skirrid-fach, 765 fefct. It is substantially a Welsh town, although situated on the English side of the boundary.* The very extensive coal "* Chester, Shrewsbury and Hereford are now also on the English side of the boundary, although classed herein as Welsh towns. C 74 O'er the Atlaiitk. \' "i and iron works of Blaenavon, and other works are in the neighborhood, thus contributing material increase to the general business of the place. We will now put the iron horse once more in motion and proceed on our journey, passing Pontypool, where there are extensive iron and tin works, over the great Crumlin viaduct which spans the Ebw Vale at the village of Crumlin. This vast structure is composed of open lig-ht iron Avork, of which there are ten spans, etch measuring 150 feet, with pieces of iron girded 204 feet high. The whole cost of it was ;^40,ooo or $200,000, a small sum when com- pared with the magnitude of the undertaking, which has to be seen 10 be appreciated. On we go through Aberdare, noted for its very extensive coal works, steaming through the beautiful Vale of Neath (Cwmnedd) until we arrive in the fast improving town of — Neath,— Called by the Welsh, Castelnedd, a place of great antiquity, situated on the banks of Neath river, is one of the most flourishing towns in South Wales. The old castle, once the property of Jestvn ap Gwrgan (Jestyn the s6n of Gwrgan,) Lord of Morgarmum when coni- e undertaking, ;iated. On we very extensive the beautiful e arrive in the , Caste/nedit, a n the banks of 1 fishing towns )• of Jestyn ap •gan,) Lord of by Llewellyn ; little remains Neath Abbev, called by Leland "the fairest in all Wales," de- serves from the tourist more than a passing remark. This fine old building was completed by Richard de Granville (who after the conquest came into possession of the castle), and dedicat- ed it to the Holy Trinity, placing therein a small commtuiity of Grey Friars, and giving them large possessions for their maintenance It was at this Monastery the unfortunate Edward III found temporary shelter in 1326, a short time before he lost his kingdom and life. Tiie structure is built of walls of great thickness, composed of native stone, with tlie corners and embellishments of a sort of cement, which in its present appearance resembles wliite sand or free- stone, and is equally as hard if not more so. The walls of the Abbot's house \vith parts of the Chapter house and refectory remain — the latter with its heavy and high pointed arches, massive pillars and large fire place and stone mantel, is still in a good state of preservation. And I may say that here, amid the roar of furnaces, clanking of hammers, the humming of the cold blast fan, and the puffing and whistling of the iron horse on the South Wales and Vale of Neath Rail- ways, and in spite of the ravages of time, of war, and weather, there still stand vast portions of this once extensive and magnificent building, a solitary memento of the past ages and thegeniuf of the people of hose days. We will now raise our hat to old Neath Abbey and proceed to— 76 Cer the Atlantic. >-n: Bridgend,— We made but a very short stay- here ; having hired what is called a trap by the natives, a term quite as appropriate as rigging, a vehicle on two wheels, whereon we sat back to back, we proceeded to St. Donat's, nine miles distant. While there we were entertained at the house of the mother of an American friend and neighbor, where we passed a pleasant hour or two. We failed to obtain admission into the castle for the want of admission cards from Dr Came, the present proprietor or lessee, resident three miles from the place, so had to content our- selves with a sight of its outward walls, and a splendid marine view, overlooking the Bristol cliannel. The castle is of Norman architecture. For 684 years it remained in possession of a family called Straddling, and afterwards in that of the name of Drake, no doubt descendants of Sir Francis Drake, the celebrated Admiral of Qudtjn Elizabeth's reign, and the hero of the Spanish Arniiida invasion. I was informed that the car- ving, &c., of the interior is very fine. Near to the castle and covered with foliage, is the old cliurch, while a portion of an old watch tower occupies a position on the opposite hill looking towards the sea. Until the light house near by was erected, many were the wrecks which occurred in this neighborhood, of which are told heart-rending and strange stories. Portions of unfortunate vessels can be seen in and around the village at this day. In the churchyard is an ancie casth Eliza conic to ou way 1 for— Mc altho to thi boroi; speak residi them (as th we wi Sw. is bea banks its nai perha] ing ra Her of wh 'Phere pwned for ins Chili, iron ai &c. Li of shi] ,_/ O'er the Atlantie. ery short stay 1 a trap by the ate as rigging, we sat back to t's, nine miles tertained at the nerican friend pleasant hour lission into the cards from Dr lessee, resident to content on r- 1 walls, and a ig the Bristol :hitecture. For >n of a family in that of the ndants of Sir iral of Qudtjn F the Spanish d that the car- ine. Near to ?e, is the old watch tower e hill looking louse near by rrecks which irhich are told Portions of 1 and around rchyard is an 77 ancient stone cross of great elegance. The castle and church figured much in the reigns of Elizabeth and James I. Having seen all that we could of antiquated St. Donat's, we bade adieu to our newly acquired friends and retraced our way back to Bridgend, where wc took the train for— MoRRiSTON.— Here we will halt for a few days although the place lias nothing to recommend it to the tourist, it being simply a portion of the borough of Swansea ( Abertaw^), of which we shall speak of next, but some relati\'es of the writer residing here we will have to sojourn among them for a season; indeed, we are now among (as the scriptures sayeth) " our own people," s(^ we will have to tarry frequently as we go along. Swansea, — The principal town of South Wales, is beautifully situated between lofty hills on the banks of the river Tawe, from which it derives its name in Welsh, Abertawe. Its population is perhaps 6o,ooo to 70,000 persons, and is increas- ing rapidly in commerce and size. Here are the largest copper works in the world, of which the Messrs. Vivian are the proprietors. There are also extensive copper and silver works |)wned by other equally enterprising persons; for instance, that owned by a Mr. Lambert, from Chili, South America, and several very large iron and tin works, .patent fuel works, potteries, &c. Large floating docks for the accommodation of shipping have within the last ten years been 78 O'er the Atlantic. constructed. Indeed, such have been the im- provements made within a score of years, that one who has been absent for tliat time would scarcely know the place at present. Swansea carries on an extensive trade in cop- per ore with Chili, South America, and the island of Cuba, in the West Indies, which, when manu- factured into copper, is shipped to London and Liverpool, and from there to al! parts of the world. It is also ;i delightful watering place; a fine sandy beach and plenty of sea-vvarer for bath- ing, attracts numerous visitors to iliis eiiterprisinpf town during the summer irumths, thus augment- ing its wealth and resources. The castle, of wliich but a portion remt^ins, is said to have been erected by one flenry Beau- mont, Earl of Warwick, a Norman leader of 1113, adjoining which has recently been erected a very handsome building by the government for a post-office. The castle, in which tlie volun- teers hold their drills, is the property of the duke of Beaufort, as baron of (Jower. There are also many fine public and commercial buildings here, among which I may name the town hall or court house, a beautiful Grecian structure; the royal institution of South Wales, an elegant building which contains a valuable library; museum of arts and sciences; museum of antiquities, a visit to which will be most interesting to the stranger i-nd tourist. There are also very massive build- ings erected from native stone, hewn rock work, ..iilllllWIII O'cf the Atlantic. 79 been the inn- ! of years, that at time would t. e trade in cop- , and the ishind li, when nianu- o London and !l parts of the tering place; a vvsirer ft>r bath- lisf uterprisinpf thus augment- ion remt^ins, is ; Henry Beau- man leader of y been erected le government iiich tlie volun- rty of the dtike There are also buildings here, n hall or court ure; the royal egant building y; museum of iquities, a visit to the stranger massive build- ivn rock work» for instance, the House of Correction or Goal, Union Poor House, Infirmary, House of Indus- try, Normal School, Music Hall, Gas-works, &c., all on a gigantic scale and substantially erected, as if to last for ages to come. A few miles from Swansea is a pretty little watering place called Oyster-mouth, by some the Mumbles, a delightful place to pass away a few weeks or months during the summer weather. We visited twice here an old friend of the writer, a Mr. G. Bowen, who, with his family, had taken up their residence there for the summer, during which time we enjoyed ourselves very much. MuMBi.Ks is a small but romantic village, with its beach washed by the tidal waters of the Swan- sea bay, built at the foot of very bold high cliffs, (limestone cliffs). The " Mumbles head" is a bold rocky projection against which the waters of the bay dash with more or less fury, accord- ing to the weather, and on which a fine light- house is erected, surrounded with a fort, thus affording not only protection, but security amid perils to the benighted mariner. This bay is not surpassed by any other on the British coast for sheltering vessels from the fury of sea and wind ; indeed, the writer of these lines has often, years ago, had to avail himself of the friendly shelter which this little bay affords the : mariner. Oystermouth castle is a very fine old building, erected by Henry Beaumont, whom I have had occasion to name (Earl of Warwick) ^¥ .So O'fr the Atlantic. more than onto in this jonrnal. as one of the followers of Willianj the Norman Conqueror. It has a majestic appearance, standing as it does on a higli hill, thus enabling it to be seen a long way off. It is the property, like the Swan- sea castle, of the Duke of Beaufort. The Mum- bles is noted for its fisheries, and tiiere are up- wards of 4,000 men employed in the oyster fisheries alone. Apropos of oysters, the Mumble oysters, though reckoned very fine, do not come up to our Shrewsburj-, Blue Point or East river, S2rved up at a Broadway oyster saloon or in Kulton market. They have quite a different taste, a taste which the New- Yorker would cer- tainly not approve of. It is a rough tincture of iron, and copperish taste, which can be retained in the mouth for an hour after partaking of them. We will now bid a final adieu to our kind friend and his intelligent family, and leave the Mumbles with its gay visitors, and request you to accom- pany us to I.lanelly I greati here eight down cheer it cai town thelei most then, haps surrc colli( silvei come Mucl indoi Will prop and : 0\r the Atliitilh. 8t . as one of the in Conqueror, standing as it it to be seen a lii\vn and neigh- Market places fine structures, . Every town L*t place, where, re exposed for ire, princ ipally butter, cheese, lent being sep- and to accom- modate which, neat and \dmirably arranged stalls, covered in, are erected for the purpose of exposing such articles for sale, which stalls are constructed to form a square, in tlie centre of which is the market-keeper's dwelling and \ tower, erected of hewn stone, as if to l.i »t ages untold, with wide entrance gates, the market, when not in use, ceases to be a of public thoroughfare, and they are well atu ... ed by high and low, rich and poor, who sell and buy fairly and honestly. The Llanelly market- place, as in fact all others generally are, is the property of the I.lanelly local board of health, which is simply the people, an institution of men chosen by the inhabitants to administer the laws and regulations for the government of tbe borough. Shrewd business men, elected to hold the office for honor and not for pay, a toll is col- lected of the various holders of market stalls on each market day by a collector appointed for the purpose, who is also in some towns, market keeper, which money, like rates and other muni- cipal taxes, is deposited with the treasurer of the board to be used for no other purpose than for matters connected with the borough. How faithfully those monies are expended the well paved, clean streets, and sanitary condition of the towns plainly answer, Honestly ! The Atheneum and Neville memorial com- bined, is a noble building, and exteriorly does credit to the architect and builder; but I cannot '3|>=-^5^Sr«!'''°^^«J-^,i'!t' 84 O'er thf AtliUilic. say as much of the interior, a rather botched up arrangement, to my idea, being not what it should, and could be, had the controlling powers desired it; the Neville memorial recently added to the Atheneum, (additional rooms,^ used for .- museum, &c., and a square tower, built of native stone in rock work, dedicated to the memory of Richard Janion Neville, Esq., late the managintr partner of S. VV. N. D. & Co., to whom the inhabitants of Llanelly owe much for their com- mercial, intellectual and moral prosperity. We will say no more of this town, but bid it and the remainder of old friends and acquaintances a long farewell, perhaps forever; for how very many, did I find upon my advent among them, had gone to "that bourne from which no traveler returns." How forcibly do the words occur to me, that "in the midst of life we are in death-" for i,ome very dear old friends had, but a few- days prior to our arrival, paid their last tribute on earth. We are but sojourners, here to-day and gone to-morrow, and as time is precious, we will bid adieu once more to the living of LlancUv wishing them all the health, prosperity and hap- piness this old world can afford, and passing through Burry P,.rt and Pen,brev,thriving places land ourselves in the ancient town of KiDWELLv.-This old fashioned place, although small, IS one of the t,.wns of former days, those days when Llanf ily and other growing towns were nowhere, h is a market town and under 'i^ aJ & 'lli ' K'i S&a aaaiMiiwutwM tlicr botched up ng not what it iitrolling powers 1 re(X'ntly added oms,) used for ."•, •, built of native 3 the memory of te the managing ■, to whom tlie h for their coni- irosperity. We It bid it and the icquaintances a for how very It among tliem, lich no traveler words occur to are in death;" had, but a few Bir last tribute fiere to-day and ecious, we will g of Llanclly, erity and Jiap- I, «ind passing hriving places, of )lace, although er days, those rowing towns vn and under i SSSfflRSSS^fcwFSES^S^^gl^SfS*^^,^^^^^*;' ^ 0S> ^a: ^ ^ %^ t IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I !!l 1^ 111112.0 2.2 1.8 Photographic Sciences Corporation 125 ' m 1 =y= m * .4 6" — ► «' 4» v V <^ VV o 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716)872-4503 r ifi ^4^ iV CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CIHM/ICIVIH Collection de microfiches. Canadian Institute for Historical IVIicroreproductions / Institut Canadian de microreproductions liistoriques imim O'er the Atlantic. 8S the provisions of its charter, has its mayor and subordinate officers, like those of the city of London, who meet upon certain occasions clothed in scarlet robes of office, amid much pomp and ceremony. Old Kidwelly, or Cathivelti, was for- merly surrounded by walls with three or more B gates, one of which, together with many of the old houses, are yet standing, defying time and weather. It is not a place of much trade, a small tin works being the only works of any note in operation at present ; perhaps there are not 1,500 inhabitants in the place, and if it was not for the grand and extensive old castle, ranking as one of the finest in Wales, the place would scarcely be worth visiting. The castle stands on a rocky eminence over- looking the town, and the river Gwendraeth, and was built by one of the Beaumonts, so popular after the Conquest; it is now a large and impos- ing ruin in tolerable preservation, with some of its apartments entire, and flights of steps not very much injured. The west gateway is a noble specimen of architecture, and some of the towers at the angles retain their arched roofs of stone. From the battlements a good view may be had of Carmarthen bay and the country around. — There is also an ancient church here fast falling to decay, and not far from it the ruins of an old priory of great age. From Kidwelly we went to a pretty little place called Ferryside, very much frequented by persons desirous of good sea bath- 86 0\r the Atlantic. ing. Here we spent a pleasant day or two, and enjoyed ourselves very much, for the fare at the White Lion hotel is not to be sneezed at. Direct- ly opposite Ferryside is another pretty watering place called Llanstephan ; both places are situated on the banks of the river Towcy. Li.ANSTEPHAN,— i. e. St. Stephen's Church, has a sainted well formerly in high repute, but is so noticed, chiefly on account of the picturesque and venerable ruins of its once very fine castle. Crowning the summit of a bold hill, the base of which is washed by the tidal waves, stands this majestic old ruin, its walls hoary with age. It Avas formerly surrounded with earthen ramparts, was built by Uchtryd, Prince of Meirion in 1138, but it soon fell into the hands of the Normans apd Flemings. From them it was taken by Gruffydd ap Rees, Prince of South Wales, and from whom the foreigners were totally unable to recover it. In the neighborhood, and over- looking the river, is the elegant mansion of one Sir James Hamilton. While here we were not a little amused with the freaks and antics of a score of donkeys and their drivers. The females dressed in the primitive style of Welsh costume, which is simply flannel of domestic manufacture, wove in a vari of patterns, that of the red,' white and >-. stripe on bhie background being the most ..sed. The dress is made quite short, showing off a neat, well-trimmed ankle, and we'1-made shoe and stocking. Some of j#^i,«S!SSS6B9l 0\'r the Atlanttc. 87 day or two, and >r tlie fare at the ezed at. Direct- pretty watering laces are situated en's Church, has repute, but is so the picturesque very fine castle. hill, the base of aves, stands this y with age. It irthen ramparts, Meirion in 1138, rf the Normans was taken by uth Wales, and totally unable ood, and over- mansion of one : we were not a fintics of a score The females Welsh costume, ic manufacture, hat of the red, le background is made quite rimmed ankle, ig. Some of the better class and others, on tiie Sabbath and holiday, wear lace caps, very nicely got up, and on top of the head is a tall crowned silk beaver hat, Avith wide brim, tapering slightly from the lirim to the crown. The most youthful and gay wear this hat alone, without cap, instead of which the hair is dressed similar in style to that adopted of late by the American ladies; but the Welsh ladies don't wear the hat on the forehead, but on the head, nor do I think that they have resource to artificial means to increase the size of — I forget what it is called, let me think — well, it is immaterial, for most of my readers will un- derstand what I have reference to, many will smile at the primitive style of dress; but let me en- deavor to assure them that a Welsh Avoman, attired so, seated on horseback with a market basket on her lap, or walking with market basket on her head, well loadeH, and perhaps an infant in her" arms, with her hat tied to the strings of her apron, blooming with the real color of health, is as pretty, charming and happy as the gaily attired and fashionable lady of the season. Women and children are those generally engaged in the gathering of cockles from the sands, where they are found in plenty. The cockle is a small shell-fish, similar in taste (but more delicate) to the American clam. They are found imbedded* some two inches in the sand, their location indi- cated by two small breathing holes, and in large quantities in North and South Wales, during the 88 0\f the Atlantic. hours between low water and the coming in of the tide, some scores of women and children are daily engaged in this business,until their sacks and basicets are filled, when they are thrown across the donkey's back and driven home to be pre- pared for market; some unshelled and some shelled, are taken and shipped to the larger towns of the interior. Indeed, I have seen the Welsh cockles figuring largely in the markets of Ix)ndon, Bristol and Manchester, where they arc considered an article of luxury. We will now re- trace our steps via. Llanelly, and land ourselves in — LouGHOR.— Here the writer first saw the light, and got his first scholastic tiirashing (not for good behavior) from the curate of the parish church, who acted in the capacity of schoolmas- ter during the week days. In the old churchyard are interred the remains of most cf his relatives on his mcther's side, and the remains of hi,s father and two brothers, so he cannot but stay to pay a passing tribute to the place of his nativity, wliere lay all that was once mcrtal of those so nearly allied to him. Loughor, or as it is called in Welsh, " Castell LlwcAwr," is situated on the bank of the river Llvvchwr, which divides the counties of Glanmorgan and Carmarthen,and now •spanned by two bridges, one for the South Wales railway traffic, and the other tor turnpike traffic. Collieries, copper, zinc and glass works are in the neighborhood, but only the former are in op- O'er the Atlantic. 89 le coming in of ind children are I their sacks and thrown across omc to be pre- lled and some to the larger have seen the the markets of where they arc Ve will now re- land ourselves ; saw the light, ihing (not for of the parish of schoolmas- ald churchyard ;f his relatives emains of hi,s not but stay to 3f his nativity, :al of those so r as it is called tuated on the :h divides the rthen,and now ; South Wales irnpike traffic, works are in mer are in op- eration at present. Indeed it has nothing but its antiquity to recommend it to the traveler and tourist at the present time. Says the historian : " It is supposed to be the Leucarum of Antonius, and the fifth Roman station on the road called Julia Stratta." A portion of tlie old castle, a large square building, situated on a mound, sur- rounded by a double trench for defense, still remains. It was built in 1099, destroyed by the sons of Gruffydd ap Rees in 1 115, and rebuilt by Hugh le Despenser in the time of Edward II. An old house called the Sanctuary, still standing, formerly belonged to the Knights of Jerusalem. The old town had undergone but little change since my boyhood's days. The veteran castle, although hoary with age, and then, as now, clad with ivy, a stale old ruin, appeared to have as much of it left as when the boys and girls assembled to play hide and seek within its walls, or climbed up its lofty tower to get a glimpse of the river and the country around, forty years ago. The old parish church remained about as it was when I attended church (much against my incli- nation) with my dear old granny, and the high built pew which prevented me from gazing at the congregation, with the massive stone tablet secured to the whitewashed wall directly above it, giving the dates of the demise of some of my ancestors, brought the past forcibly to my mind, when I thought the sermon given by the worthy curate would never end, and when nature had at 90 O'er the Atlantic. last t(. give way lor the lack of surncthing more interesting to my young mind than histological remarks, I begin to nod, and nod, nod, nodding lell tast asleep, to wake up with the loud congre- gational singing which closed the morning ser- vice. Ah ! those were happy days; never to be lorgotten in this world! Then the old churchyard, or burial ground • yes, reader, there had a <:hange taken phice tliere; yes, the past thirty years had filled it, I may say, almost t<. its utmost capacity. Many had sought it as their final resting place, and scores of my acquaintances slept soundly beneath as green sward. The old and the young had been called away. Some of the former had lived to a ripe old age, and had but recently bade adieu to the living. It was a sad sight, and I could not refrain from shedding a copious flood of tears as I dimly gazed at the tombs and head- stones, surrounded with beautiful flowers, which marked the resting phice of many well-known to me in my yoiuiger days. Near by laid the old fisherman Cadwaladr, who carried me oftentimes on his back across the ford or into his boat, while I watched with wonder and admiration the large hauls of fish he caught, and presented me with one to take home. Poor old fellow! he was a kind good-hearted old man. Before leaving that hal- lowed and venerable spot, with its tombstones dating centuries back, and now crumbling to de- cay, I purchased, and had the pleasure to super- suinctliing more than his logica' xl, nod, nodding, the loud congrc- the morning scr- ays ; never to be burial ground ; ge taken phue > had filled it, I capacity. Many sting place, and soundly beneatli the young Iiad ■"ornier had lived t recently bade ad sight, and I a copious flood ombs and head- 1 flowers, whicli ■ well-known to by laid the old I me oftentimes his boat, while ration the large ed me with one he was a kind, aving that hal- its tombstones umbling to de- isure to super- O'cr (hf Atlantie. 91 intend the erection of a head stone at the head of my brother's grave. He sleeps well by the side of my father and infant brother, while my njother lies among strangers, thousands of miles apart; but I added her dear name also to those which lie separated in the flesh, in the old cluirch- vard at Loughor, but not in the spirit. What more can I tell my readers of the place of my nativity that would be interesting? Yes, I can tell them that I visited the house where I first saw the light, and wherein I spent the hap- piest days of my life, visited some of my relatives* resident there, and I saw and conversed with many I knew, who ga/ed with wonder, and in- deed, I may say, admiration at my portly figure, wondered if I was not deceiving them, and seemed surprised to see in the gray haired man, the bov of fourteen, so familiar to their recollec- tion. Said one old lady, who kept a small store wherein she weighed and sold sugar by the qtiarter pound, tea by the quarter ounce, aud tallow candles by the twelfth of a dozen. " Dear me! indeed £o goodness! are you W W ? And they tell me you can spake Welsh as good as when a boy." "Yes, auntie B h," said I, "I am he, and can speak Welsh, to forget my native tongijc Avould be to me blaspheniy ; and he that could, it had been better he never were born." Said * There were but two sisters of my mother (two elderly ladies) living, of my grandfather's family, but there are qi'ile a number of cousins. 9* OW the Atlantic. the old lady, "well, well I wc have had several voiing men leave here for a few years only, and rome back with nothing but Sasnts^ (English).' " It is all nonsense, auntie," said I ; "no person I well versed in the mother tongue tan for- get it. Those persons you allude to, I suppose, sought to impress you and others that the pecu- liarity of the atmosphere abroad, deprived them of the language in which they first lisped the word mother, or else they thought it degrading to a man who had visited foreign climes, to speak his ^ native tongue; how foolish, how absurd, is it not.v "Yes, indeed," she replied. The old lady closed the conversation by remarking that "she had always protested it was pride, that the igno- rant fellows supposed they were raising them- selves in the estimation of their neighbors by l^retending that they could not hold converse in Cymraig (Welsh), and that even their English was none of the best; quite the reverse." I remarked, "rather say they lowered themselves in the esti- mation of every person of good common sense." We will now take the Llanelly and Llandilo railway, now connected with the Vale of Towy railway, and proceed into the interior of the county of Carmarthen, and as^ we steam along, take a passing glimpse of Castell Carreg-Cennen (Cennen Stone Castle), erected on the summit of a bold rock 450 feet high, about A. D. 1200. It was a fortress of some note about the years 1248 and 1250, when it was taken and retaken from O'er thf Atlantic. n have had several V years only, and (vsnef; (English). " id I ; "no person ongue can for- de to, I suppose, rs that the pecu- deprived them of lisped the word degrading to a ney, to speak his iw absurd, is it i. The old lady irking that "she e, that the igno- e raising them- ir neighbors by lold converse in leir English was ic." I remarked, :lVes in the esti- :ommon sense." y and Llandilo : Vale of Towv interior of the i^e steam along, Carreg-Cennen the summit of A. D. 1 200. It the years 1248 I retaken from the English by Rees ap Fychan, a renowned Welsh Warrior. Li.andilo-Fawk, or Great Llandilo, so called to distinguish it from other places of the same name in Wales. St. Teilo, to whom the parish is dedicated, is coupled with Dewi (or David) and Padarn (or Badam) in the Welsh Triads, as the "three holy visitors to Britain." The old fortress, called Strah-Towy castle, surrendered to the English in 1277, and was destroyed by them, but there still remains an old relic of the past in the classical old ruin of Dyiievor castle, the property of the Rt. Hon. Lord Dynevor, wIkj has a beautiful mansion in the vicinity, the old cas- tle forming part of the grounds.* Camden calls it "a princely castle belonging to the princes of South Wales while they flourished." It was first built by Rhys ap Theodore, in the days of the Con- queror, and demolished in 1194 in one of the feudal wars of that period, but in 1257 it was rebuilt, and again in the possession of the Rhys family, under whom it stood a noted seige against the English until retaken by Llewelyn ap Gruf- fydd, and it continued to remain as a formidable fortress until the civil war of Charles I, when it was dismantled. The present proprietor, Lord Dynevor, whose family name is Rice, is a lineal descendant of Rhys ap Thomas, the owner and occupant of the castle in Henry the VII's reign. •The first castle was built bj- Roderic Maw, in 877, 94 O'er the AtUintic. In iind amiiiid Llandilo tlic country and scen- ery arc very fine, and its agricultural resources are vciy great, and besides Newton Park (the Dyncvdi- mansion) there are several other fine mansions in the neighborhood, for instance, Ta- liaris, the residence of William Peel, PNq. (cousin to the late Robert Peel) ; Riiyd Odin or Edwins- ford, the residence of Sir James Hamlin Williams ; (Jolden Clrove, the residence of the Rt. Hon. Karl of Cawdor, and others of more or less note. .Near Edwinsford are the ruins of Talley Abbey, founded in 1180 by Rhys, son of Gruffydd, Prince of Wales. This abbey was surprised by that monster, Henry VHT, who gave its revenues to the family of Albemarles, and on Pantglas estate, the residcnee of David Jones, Esq., M. P., arc two ancient encampments, one no doubt of Roman origin, for several portions of armor, hilts of swords, and other instruments of war, (mostly of Roman manufacture) and Roman coins have been dug up from time to time, thus establishing the fact of their having been at one time a Roman encampment there. Before bid- ding adieu to Llandilo we may here remark that the last and decisive battle between the Welsh and English was fought near by in 1252, when the forces of Edward I (superior in number) were victorious over those of l.lewelen, Prince of Wales, who was shamefully betrayed and slain. This terrible battle* put an end to the Welsh *Tlic British loss of life was immense to achieve the victory. Strug since Engl Ca ( oiin gard( \Val( the n and i consi of tir Salm also. Fn had t sight surro of w Cotir ciewt Ca carli( of ni theg rebui It Merh the n is sup tin's I of \\\\ (umtry and scen- iilturul resources swton Piirk (the L'veral other fine for instance, Ta- 'eel. F'"sq. (cousin Odin or Edwins- lamiin Williams; )f the Rt. Hon. iiore or less note, jf Talley Abbey, )n of Gruffydd, rt'as surprised by gave its revenues nd on Pantglas mes, Esq., M. P., )ne no doubt of rtions of armor, ruments f>f war, re) and Roman ime to time, thus ring been at one :re. Before bid- liere remark that .veen the Welsh y in 1252, when in number) were •elen. Prince of rayed and slain, id to the Welsh nsc to achieve the O'tr the AtUvitii-. 95 strtiggle for indopendancc, and Wales has ever' since been, as she ever will he, stibject to the English crown. We next proceeded to — CARMAKTitiN. — It is tlic sliire town rned with Ionic oor House, a free a Dr. Owen, and may say, are or- ; plain building, liich are hung an : church contains of antique date ; senting chapels, je congregations, the education of 5n, known in the id girls," are re- • English. They ry correctly, but leniselves. eed beyond this iwest, Pembroke O'er the ^i/lanlk. 97 and Aberystvvith, the former two places celebrat- ed for good sea bathing, all very remarkable and pretty places, and with a history scarcely second to any other towns in Wales ; but, as "time was on the ioiiig.i" we had to forego that pleasure and proceed in an opposite direction, so as to reach Llandovery to visit a relative, who is the propri- etor of a Chemical Works in that neighborhood. M, I 9« O'er the Atlantic. LETTER IX. WALES, CONTINUED. Llandovery,— In ancient times called Llan- ymddyfrwy, is a small market town of about 2,000 inhabitants. All that remains of its once fine old castle is the keep, which consists of a circular tower on the summit of a mound, and a few pieces of old ruined walls. The history of this castle, which we will give but briefly, is nevertheless interesting. Howell ap Rhys took it by storm in 940. It afterwards fell into the hands of the English, and was subsequently taken and retaken until the time of Edward I, since which time it has been a ruin. One of the greatest additions to Llandovery which has been made of late years, is the build- ing and establishing of a public school upon a large scale, called the Welsh Collegiate Institu- tion, founded by Thomas Phillips, Esq., for the encouragement of native talent. The building is not only commodious but very handsome, and we are informed is a perfect sticcess in every respect. Llai borhoi pccial fine; I the ba anglei The passin vated his rei Caj place, we ha its bei South where (i. e., morga surroi trance statel) on th< dencc Robit conqu order I, whc In 164 ly bes Crom posse! 0. les called Llan- town of about ains of its once ch consists of a a mound, and a The history of e but briefly, is 11 ap Rhys took ■ds fell into the IS subsequently e of Edward I, lin. to Llandovery irs, is the build- : school upon a tUegiate Institu- ps, Esq., for the The building is handsome, and iccess in every O'er the Atlantic. 99 Llandovery is situated in a delightful neigh borhood, celebrated for its farm productions, es- pecially that of butter, which is generally very fine; fine trout abound in the rivers and streams, the banks of which are much frequented by the angler. The writer will now have to make a long leap passing through a picturesque and W'll culti- vated country and enterprising towns, uid land his readers in — Cardiff. — A few passing remarks ai)out this place, as we travel along, will render the route we have taken the more interesting. As'de from its being the most important commercial lown in South Wales, it is celebrated as being the place where Jestyn ap Gwrgan, Lord of Morgan wg, (i. e., Jestyn the son of Gwrgan, Lord of Gla- morgan) built for himself a strong fortified castle, surrounded with embattled walls, with five en- trance gates. This castle was a spacious and stately edifice, and was called Caerdaff (fortress on the Taff), hence Cardiff ; it became the resi- dence of princes. It was in this castle that Robirt, Duke of Normandy, eldest son of the conqueror, was confined for twenty-six years, by order of his brother William Rufus, and Henry I, who were jealous of his power and influence In 1648, when garrisoned by Royalists,it was close- ly besieged for three days by the troops of Oliver Cromwell, who commanded in person, when possession was obtained through the treachery foe Cer the Atlantic. of a deserter from the garrison, who Cromwell, after having entered the castle, caused to be hung, as a warning to his own troops, thus paying the traitor in his own coin. Nearly the whole of this very ancient building has given place to the now more modern mansion of the Marquis of Bute, to whose father (now deceased) the flourishing town of Cardiff owes much for its prosperity, the marquis, during his life time, having laid out probably half a million pounds sterling in the building of docks, warehouses and other conveniences incidental to a first class seaport. The present marquis is about tAventy years of age, and resides at the castle with the dowager marquise, his mother, and it is said, will, on his coming of age, carry out further im- provements projected by his late father. Nkwport. — At this place wc stayed but a very sliort time, to call upon an old acquaintance, but who unfortunately was not at home. After hastily penning him a few lines to come and see us at Chepstow, we proceeded to take a hasty survey of the town and its castle, both of which are situated on the banks of the river Usk, the latter on a steep precipice overlooking the river. Newport, or Casnnvydd^ as it is called by the Welsh, for the last thirty years has been continu- ally improving, commercially and otherwise, until it has become a shipping port of much im- portance ; the extensive floating dock constructed here for the accommodation of shipping of imr mense iible pc of vess jacent, mincra ore, w varioui rail, fn wise, gas pu parts ( ports. It V the coi that ve by fon is too ■ The the raj cial ti antiqu and th convei sions, lover Caerlh time fi than I to be amonf reside , who Cromwell, e, caused to be \vn troops, thus oin. Nearly the ilding has given I mansion of the r (now deceased) >wes much for its g his life time, 1 million pounds >cks, warehouses al to a first class is about twenty ; castle with the , and it is said, ' out further im- : father. tayed but a very cquaintance, but It home. After to come and sec to take a hast}* e, both of which e river Usk, the loking the river. is called by the 3.S been continu- and otherwise, ort of -much im- iock constructed shipping of imr O'er the Atlantic. loX mense tonnage, renders it one of tlic most desir- able ports in Britain for loading and unloading of vessels, and in the mountainous districts ad- jacent, are some of the finest and most extensive mineral beds in the world, one of which is iron ore, which, when manufactured into iron at various places, is then sent on to this port by rail, from whence it is shipped foreign and coast- wise. Immense quantities of coal for steam and gas purposes are also shipped from here to all parts of the United Kingdom and to foreign ports. It was at Newport that tl)e chartists under the command of the Dowhead, John Frost, made that very feeble and futile effort to gain reform by force of arms, the result of which crazy move is too well known. The place derives its interest principally from the rapid growth and prosperity of its commer- cial transactions; but it has some claim to antiquity also, for it was founded by the Romans, and the remains of an ancient castle, now partly converted into a brewery of no mean preten- sions, are still there to gratify the eye of the lover of antiquities. The ancitiit towns of Caerlleon and Usk are not many miles off, at one time far more important stations to the Romans than Newport was, and in the neighborhood are to be seen some very magnificent mansions, among which I may name Tredegar Park, the residence of Lord Tredegar, Abercarn House, the »'■ tba O'er the Atlantic. residence of Lord Llanover and Llanwern, the residence of the Rev. Sir J. C. Salsbury. We will now bid Casnewydd adieu, and go to— Chepstow.— Here we will remain for several days witii a relative, who resides here, so as to enable us to visit such places as are said to be very interesting to travelers and tourists gen- erally. First of all we will speak of the town, a quiet, delightful and picturesque retreat on the right banks of the river Wye, which is tlie boundary line between the counties of Monmouth and Gloucester, but at present its commercial tranr- actions are but very slim indeed. During the time that the Saxons held posscr- sion of Chepstow, it was called Chepestowe, from the Saxon word chepe, for market, and the word stowcy for town, meaning market town ; and at the time that Harold was elevated to the throne, on the death of his brother-in-law, Edward the confessor, CJiepestowe was held by the Saxon Earl, Hugh Bassett, but at the conquest (rio6) he was displaced, and the conqueror gave all the lands to his own countrymen. Hugh then became an attached refugee to the court of Rhys ap Teivdwr, Prince of South Wales, and was slain with that Prince in the contest with Robert Fitzhamon on Mynydd Du (Black Moun- tain(, in the year 1090. The next possessor of Chepstow was William Fitzosborn, a relative of the conqueror, who was created Earl of Here- lord, a He W£ was a1 nient Fitzge Walte Clare, (surna was E He di( formei but d rhang becam II gai Thom the W throu^ now tl Duke The specin precip posed apartr entran rjund captiv as the specia for tw Llanwern, the Salsbury. We id go to— lain for several here, so as to 5 are said to be d tourists gen- c town, a quiet, It on the right s tlie boundary 'Ion mouth and nmercial tranr- ns held posscr- epcstowe, from and the word town ; and at 1 to the throne, w, Edward the by the Saxon quest (rio6) he r gave all the Hugh then the court of ith Wales, and c contest with (Black Moun- t possessor of I, a relative of Earl of Here- O'ff the Atlantic. 1*3 fo'rd, and who was killed in Flanders in 1070; lie was then succeeded by his son Roger, who was afterwards condemned to perpetUal imprison- ment for political reasons. His cousin, Walter Fitzgerald de Clare, then came into possession: Walter was succeeded by his nephew Gilbert de Clare, Earl of Pembroke, whose son Richard (surnamed Strongbow, from his skill in archery), was Earl of Pembroke and Lord of Chepstow". He died in 12 10, leaving sons and daughters, the former succeeded him to the estates and titles, but died without issue. The property then changed hands frequently until 1301, when it became the property of the crown. Edward the II gave a deed of grant of it to his brother, Thomas Plantagenet. From him it passed to the Mowbrays, Norforks, Pembrokes, and then through the female line to the Somersets, and is now the property of their descendant, the present Duke of Beaufort, who is Baron of Chepstow. The castle of Chepstow is still a splendid specimen of a feudal fortress, situated on a high precipice overlooking the river Wye, and is com- posed of four distinct courts, with their various apartments and dungeons intact. Near to the entrance gate, a beautiful pointed archway, is the rjund tower, where in days gone by many a captive sighed and groaned, and now celebrated as the place wherein Henry Marten, one of the special judges of King Charles I, was confined for twenty years, since which time it has been «--lr *" 104 O't'i till' Atlantic. riillccl Marten's Tower. -Marten was a great advocate of the Rcpiihlicaii lorni of government and a staunch friend of Cromwell, the pretender, figuring among tije f(jremost, wlio were the means of bringing tliat simple and unfortunate monarch, Cliarles, to tiic block, for which act after the restoration he was condemned to die ; but his life was not to be sacrificed as that of his king's was, for the sentence was commuted t<» imprisonment for life. He died in the 78th year of his age, and was interred in the chancel of the parish church of Chepstow, and on his moni.- ment is the following, written by himself: MKKK. Sr.pr. (JTII, 1680, WAS lUTRIKI), A TRUE BORN EN«LISHM.\.\, Who in Hcrkshirc was well known To love his country's freedom 'bove his own ; Hut immured full twenty ycarc, Had time to write, as doth appear. EPITAPH. Here or elsewhere (all's one to you or me). Earth, air, or water gripes my ghostly dust. None knows how soon to be set free. Reader, if you an old tried rule will trust, Vou'll gladly do and suffer what you must. My time was spent in serving you and you. And deatli may pay, it seems, and welcome, too— Revenge destroying, but itself— while I To birds of prey leave my old cage and fly. Examples preach to the eye, care then mine says. Not how you did, but how you spend your days. In the t( mens and V be te The t Charl Gate, Du expei and \ perio iiboul seaso Sa] 1645. garri mand force some comr Gove denia rend( same rema rions May Gove takei Nich |''■fclhi^l^|•|i^B^l^^i^l O'r the Atlaniit. 105 II was ii great of government I, the pretender, who were the ncl unfortunate for which act denined to die ; d as that of Ins s commuted to n the 78th year the chancel of don his rnono himself: IKI), I MAN, his own ; }r me), \- diisi, (rusi, must. d you, ;lcomu, loo— e I nd fly. n mine says, I your 'days. In addition to the almost impregnable cystic the town was strongly fortified. Walls of im- mense thickness and watch towers surrounded it, and with some few exceptions are now what may be termed in a tolerable state of preservation. The town gate, called in the charter, granted by Charles, Earl of Worcester, in 1524, the "Great Gate," is still standing and in good repair. During the reign of Charles I, Chepstow experienced its share of the reverses of fortune and hard knocks, identical to that very unsettled period of State affairs, when old England was about becoming a Republic, b>it only for a season. Says Ruskworth : " On the 6th of October, 1645, the town and castle of Chepstow, being garrisoned by the King's troops under the com- mand of Col. Fitzmorris, were summoned by a force of 300 cavalry and 400 infantry, assisted lf 160 men only, age and determi- s, the little bandr ilmost famished surrender, had h they had pro- le purpose. In ^ointment, for a swam the river, away with him. 1 the works and Its valiant com- lives in endeav- 1 the invader." is considered of 'arliamentarians sterling, a large d the bearer of ext. LETTER X. WAl-F.S, CONTINUEO. Chepstow, Continued. — The old parish church of Chepstow was originally that of an alien pri- ory of benedictine monks, dedicated to the Holy Virgin. It was founded in the reign of Stephen by one of the family of De Clare. The principal entrance is of Norman architecture, and the old tower contains a fine peal of bells and a hand- some clock with chimes, which chime hourly commencing five miniues before striking the hour] Several very fine monuments adorn the interior among which is a very elegant canopied tomb of Henry Somerset, Lord Herbert, second Earl of Worcester of that line, who died in 1549. The Welsh custom of bedecking the graves of departed friends with flowers of early spring, is strictly kept up in the ancient churchyard on Palm Sunday, and is done so generally through- out Wales. Dr. Dodd commemorates the custom in the following and other lines : to! O'tr Iht Atlantif. Oh ! 'IJN dcliKlitful to maintain Of friends decuaxcU a true rvspoct ; Then brlnt{ •"« flowrcts fresh and green, ' Straight Khali my parent's grave be decked. There arc several fine buildings, among which is the banit, a branch of the west of England, towering high above the rest, as also several buildings of ancient date, and two alms houses, one the gift of Sir Walter Montague, of Pencoed, for the residence and relief of ten poor persons of the parish, and the other affords an asylum to twelve similar persons. There is also another charitable endowment of four shillings per week, ciUed " Bowsher's charity," for the support of. ten poor old bachelors! "What a shame,' remarked a lady friend to me one day, " it is that such an inducement should be held out to the young men of Chepstow to live a single life of blessedness, knowing that when they get up in years that they may possibly be one of the fortu- nate four shillinger's per week, to live a life of idleness. Pooh ! I have no patience left when I think of the old f— 1 of a batch who made the bequest." Poor old thing, for she was on the wrong side of forty. How much it did seem to annoy her, and I must confess that I thought myself that the money was not very judiciously bequeathed. This little town has a variety of very fine stores, is well supplied with water and lighted with gas, and the streets are well paved and beai pla( the hoo the rest T Scv rigl Grt wh( ous nes ver the mei bea trai BrI me upi neli an( not the spe nei nei th( mf O'er thf Atlantic. 109 sp»!Ct ; id gruvn, ' vc bo decked. s, among which est of Englnnd, as also several ivo alms houses, fue, of Pencoed, ;n poor persons ds an asylum to is also another llings per week, the support of. i^hat a shame,' ! day, " it is that held out to the a single life of they get up in »ne of the fortu- :o live a life of snce left when I who made the she was on the it did seem to that I thought 'ery judiciously i of very fine ter and lighted 'ell paved and beautifully clean ; in short, it is a beautiful healthy place, and is well worthy of a week's visit from the traveler and tf)urist, for it and the neighbor- hood abounds with antiquities, situated in one of the most delightful countries tlie eye ever rested upon. The river Wye, which empties itself into the Severn, is celebrated for it*: salmon fishery, the right of which, like every other monopoly in Great Britain, is vested in the Duke of Beaufort, who rents it out to an enterprising and industri- ous Scotchman, who is well versed in the busi- ness, and under whose sagacious management very large quantities of the fish are caught during the season. He employs upwards of a hundred men, and during our stay several tons of these beautiful fish were caught and shipped off by train to the markets of London, Manchester, Bristol and other large cities, some of which fish measured more than three feet long and weighed upwards of 70 pounds. The people of the neighborhood deem this act of the Duke's mean and also an infringement of their rights, for if not the lords of the soil, they certainly think they should be of the river. They therefore speak of his grace in anv but a respectful man- ner. The Wye is spanned by two bridges, which are near the town, one a tubular bridge, erected by the late I. K. Brunell, C. E., of Great Eastern memory, for the South Wales Railway company, I lO O'er the Atlantic. ill the erection of which the lamented engineer has displayed much originality and boldness of conception. The bridge, i. e. the span, is 300 feet long and upwards of 100 feet high from low water mark, or sixty and more above high water mark. The other bridge is of wrought iron, is very handsome, and is used for turnpike traffic. Before bidding adieu to ancient Chepstow, we visited the Wind cliff and Tintern Abbey, pass- ing by Piercefield park, the princely residence of Henry Clay, Esq., of which I cannot give an adequate description ; but the grandest scene on the Wye is that to be obtained from the Wind cliff, which we ascended with some considerable difficulty, and were only too glad when we reached the summit. Here we were perched high up in the air, with the water and clouds beneath us, standing upon the edge of a precipice, the depth of which caused us to shudder, and the farm houses in the valley beneath appearing to have been reduced to one-third their actual size, with the eccentric river winding at our feet like the letter S, and resembling a small creek. For let my renders recollect that we were one thou- sand feet above its level, and from where we overlooked nine counties, said to be the most beautiful and extensive prospect in Great Britain. Descending a different way to that we went, we passed through a large cavern in the rock, nearly 90 feet in length, leaving which we passed down 360 steps, and over a rustic bridge to the Moss C b d a n \ c (i P h \ tl g d r V d s F i r c % i \ t c O'er the Atlantic, lit [imented engineer and boldness of the span, is 300 ;et high from low above high water wrought iron, is ■ turnpike traffic, ent Chepstow, we em Abbey, pass- icely residence of cannot give an ;randest scene on I from the Wind ome considerable glad when we 'e were perched rater and clouds a^epf a precipice, shudder, and the ath appearing to their actual size, : at our feet like nail creek. For 5 w^ere one thou- from where we to be the most in Great Britain. :hat we went, we 1 the rock, nearly we passed down dge to the Moss Cottage, a singular building, enveloped in shrub- bery, the interior of which is lined beautifully with moss; and its windows are of stained glass, diffusing therein a very nice, soft light. Visitors are here supplied, at rather a salty figure, with refreshments and photographs of the cottage, the Wind cliff, &c. After paying the old lady in charge for coming down the ever memorable (i. e. to me), " 360 steps," and purchasing a few photographs, we again entered our carriage, which had gone on to meet us here from the foot of the Wind cliff, and drove to Tintern, two miles fur- ther, along an excellent road, but not at a 2:40 gait, keeping the river on our right. It was a delightful drive. " Such drives as we sometimes read of," remarked one of our party. To me it was not only delightful, but refreshing, after doubling cape Wind cliff, which was rather severe exercise for a man of my weight (225 pounds), and arrived at Tintern, we proceeded immediately to view the Abbey, a building of much grandeur and antiquity. Tintern Abbey is situated on the right bank of the river 'Vye, in a hollow sheltered by four gigantic hills. It was founded for white monks in the year 1 131, and dedicated to St. Mary by Walter Fitz Richard de Clare, son of Constance, the sister of William Fitzosborn, who was created Earl of Hereford by the Conqueror, to whom he was nearly related. This pious act of De Clare was intended by him to expiate his 'I Its O'er the Atlantic many sins for having robbed, pillaged and mur- dered the native inhabitants by wholesale, both he and his brother Gilbert and many others of the nobles. Abbotts, priests, &c., were interred in the Abbey. On entering this majestic and superb ruin, wherein the close cut grass serves for a carpet, instead of the fine mosaic pavement, some of which has been collected together and formed into a floor, surrounded by an ion railing, so many objects meet the eye, in so sudden a man- ner (says a well known writer), that the visitor becomes astonished beyond conception at the grandeur that must have once reigned within those ancient walls. The long line of massive lofty pillars which divides the aisles, the fallen arches and the elegant remains of the east win- dow (sixty feet in depth), strike the beholder with awe and challenge his admiration and astonish- ment at what was possible in the days of semi- barbarism. Here and there are scattered some neatly piled up sculptured fragments and tomb- stones, ruined effigies and broken ornaments, which cannot but strike the eye and cause the mind to wander into centuries long gone by. From the north aisle you pass through a door or iron gateway into the cloisters, and from there to the chapter house, infirmary, library, refectory and kitchen, all in a good state of preservation, considering the time since they were inhabited by mortal man. Says one writer : T forn 'SO and doo feet use( to b by I sup VII is r the coll visi anti thei ? its ] for It mo sin] Hi! O'er the Atlantu. "3 taged and mur- ivholesale, both nany others of were interred I superb ruin, 5s for a carpet, ment, some of er and formed \ ?n railing, so sudden a man- that the visitor :eption at the reigned within ine of massive sles, the fallen ' the east win- ; beholder with and astonish- days of semi- icattered some ints and tomb- jn ornaments, ind cause the J gone by. hrough a door ind from there rary, refectory preservation, rere inhabited '• Mow many heart's have here grown cold Thai sleep these mouldering stones among ? How many beads have here been told, How many matins here been sung ? On this rude stone by time long broke — I think I see some pilgrim kneel — I think I see the censor smoke — I think I hear the solemn peel." Tlie Abbey, grand old classic ruin, is a cruci- form, its nave and choir 228 feet, and transept 150 feet in length, heigiit of centre arches 70 feet and the smaller 30 feet, the breadth of entrance door is 14 feet, and the walls above the dooi 28 feet. The amount of stone and Roman cement used in its construction is astonishing, and had to be transported from a long distance, no doubt by boats on the river. At the dissolution it was suppressed and the site granted by Henry the VIII, to Henry, second Earl of VVorcester, and is now the property of a descendant, his grace the Duke of Beaufort, whose agent in charge collects the nominal sum of si-s.-pence of all who visit the ruins, a sum well spent by the lover of antiquities. Retracing our steps to Chepstow, there will end our tour through Wales. Now a few remarks about Cymru (Wales), and its people generally, ere wc take our leave of it for the land of the Saesoneg (English). It is divided into two territories, com- monly called North and South Wales, compri- sing twelve counties, and its extent (says W. His. of W. p 2), "may be estimated by the follow- 114 O'er the Atlantk. ing particulars: From Carmel Point to Cheps- tow on the Severn, is about 145 miles, and from Birkenhead on the Mersey to the Wormshead in Glanmorganshire, about 140 miles. From the mouth of the Clwyd in Denbgshire to Barry Island in Glanmorganshire is about 140 miles, and from the mouth of the Dovey in Cardiganshire to Bridge-North on the Severn, nearly 70 miles, while Braich-y-pwll Head, in Carnarvonshire, and extends to the west beyond the mouth of the J Dovey, about 30 miles, and St David's head in Pembrokeshire, about 50 miles, in all about 7,500 square miles of territory. It includes, beside the twelve counties, Monmouthshire and Here- fordshire, with parts of Gloucestershire, Wor- cestershire, Shropshire and Cheshire." The former is, in my opinion, substantially a JVels/i county, it certainly is in language and habits of the people, although included in the list of English counties at present, while portions of the others were also at one time no doubt part and parcel of Welsh territory taken, iike Monmouthshire to enlarge British territory. The whole surface of the country is mountainous, not unlike Penn- sylvania, its highest mountain being that of Snowdon or Eryri, which is 3,571 feet above the level of the sea, next are Carnedd-Llewelyn, 3,466 feet, Carnedd-Davydd, 3,422 feet, Arrenig 2,999 feet, and several others of lesser height. Rivers it hasmany, among which I may name the Severn, superior in every respect to any of the O'er the Atlantic. "S 'oint to Cheps- miles, and from Wormshead in :es. From tlie shire to Barry it 140 miles, and Cardiganshire learly 70 miles, arvonshire, and mouth of the •avid's head in all about 7,500 icludes, beside lire and Here- tershire, Wor- e." T\\c former I IVels/i county, habits of the list of English 5 of the others tart and parcel imouthshire to whole surface t unlike Penn- 3eing that of feet above the edd-Llewelyn, feet, Arrenig lesser height, may name the o any of the others, tgo miles long; next is the Wye and Towy. The Severn and Towy are to a certain point navigable, and the whole three are cele- brated for salmon fishing. A vast extent of this country is in a high state of cultivation and the other parts abound with rich minerals, principally beds and seams of coal and iron ore. Wales — of which there is so little known abroad, generally, deserves from me, a native of its soil, more than a passing remark. Hence the following : Although it comprises only twelve counties, six of which form th- northern, and six the southern division, it certainly did embrace in olden times much more territory, for, as history says, it included Monmouthshire, together with other contiguous counties, whole or in part, which now are incorporated with England. Thus— I take Chester, Shrewsbury, Hereford, Chepstow, Ncivport and Abergavenny, especially the two latter, which are in the county of Monmouth, to be substan- tially Welsh towns, for there the Welsh language still prevails, and more especially in the rural districts, where the natives (more or less) retain their ancient prejudices against the Saxon. Wales has a population of about 1,250,000. " It derived its name, as also did its people, from the Saxons, who, by so naming, denoted a land and people to which they were strangers. The Welsh have always called themselves Cymri, of which the literal meaning is Aborigines, and the IJ. ii6 O'er the Atlantic. langu.ige CriHrarg or Cymric, i. e., tlje primitive tongue ; whence tlic Romans called the country Cambria. It was into this country the ancient Britons retreated, maintaining their independence by he- roically defending themselves against enemies superior in power and number, who were every- where else victorious. The Romans never were able to subdue them, and the Saxons, although in possession of the neighboring country, could never secure continued possession of Wales, and it was not until the strength of the country was so diminished, owing to internal dissentions, that the Mercians, under King Offa, laid waste exten- sive districts, and wresting a portion from the Welsh princes, reduced the country to nearly its present limits, and erected that famous boundary called Clawdd Offa or Offa's Dyke. In 843, Roderic was the sovereign of Wales, when he divided it into three principalities ; and during the Danish Ascendency in Britain, little is known of Wales. The Danes made some incur- sions on the coast, but gained no permanent foot- ing in the country. So the Welsh continued under their own princes and laws, and were never entirely subjected to the crown of England till the reign of Edward I, when Llewelyn-ap- Gruffydd, Prince of Wales, through treachery, lost his life and his country, shortly after which, Edward, the better to secure his conquest, and to reconcile the Welsh to a foreign power, sent his :., tlje primitive jfl the country ncient Britons cndence by he- ^ \\w\ per in I leg tak I tur enc ton opr Hov ina| eve ab<] brit ly roa liar wei teni fori tnw as : and ssicriricc a jvlng any good / loar. lis city arc very ■sified character, *h churches, and lething to awak- and to excite a is more particu- ir V of those ma- set apart for the i" the Established city in si/e in specially to see but one day, af- visit Clifton and 3fc, which spans the finest struc- 1 world, my re- ormed, i, e., in a by the Peruvians, )d in Europe at !S, and were fre- operations; the 631, and during French had de- of the bridge of portance and prob. O'fr t/w Allaiitii-. lai Alcantara (a splendid Roman bridge built by the Emperor Trojan), in order to prevent the ])a.s- sige of the allied troops, a n»pe bridge was at once thrown across the gap (very nearly one hundred feet wide) and crossed in safety by the entire British army," and temporary bridges formed of iron chains with planks laid across have frequently been used for various purposes. But the last great impulse to the erection of sus- l>ension bridges was erected by the completion in r826 of Telford's Menai bridge, at that time regarded as ()ne of the boldest attempts under- taken by any engineer. I will now speak of theClifttm splendid struc- ture. Standing upon the edge of the old R(»mai) encampment which crowns the summit of Clif- ton Downs, with the valley of the nightingale opposite, and 200 feet below you the river Avon flowing swiftly to the sea, is t"ie of the most magnificent views that the eye of the spectator ever rested upon ; it is here, spanning the river about 700 feet, is erected the Clifton suspension bridge, so long in contemplation, but now happi- ly for the residents of Clifton and HotweJI- road completed. This bridge is not only very handsome but capable of sustaining a permanent weight of 5,000 tons, the massive links which ex- tend from pier to pier with their gilded bolts, form especially on a clear sunny day a very at- tractive and daz/ling sight, and must be seen so as to form a correct idea of its beauty ; indeed K Iff O'er tht Atlantic. there nre but few (if any) of tlie various bridges erected in other parts of the world can excel it In grandeur, and as we gazed upon it we were struck with wonder and admiration for the genius of the great Brunei, to whose engineering skill the structure owed its presence, although he did not live to witness its completion, but a finer and more lasting monument could not be erected to his memory than the Clifton suspension bridge ! Bristol, especially that part called Clifton, has within the last ao years increased very much in size, and some of the finest private dwellings in all England adorn its once spacious and fertile fields. College roiid being the most fashionable of all others, both as a public drive and prome- nade. We failed to make it convenient to visit the old cathedral St. Mary de Redcliffe, which still stands a ven«rable and majestic monument to the days of yore. Bristol has a population of probably 175,000, and is quite a commercial city, doing an exten- sive trade, principally with South Wales, and is the terminus of the Great Western Railway. We will now take a hurried leave of this city and proceed by way of Swindon to — London. — This wonderful and rapidly grow- ing city has a population of over 3,000,000 of people, and is no doubt the largest and most flourishing city in the known world ; a few re- marks on its early history will therefore not be uninteresting to my readers. te. B th w tr cl to g' ar th w Cli /I fo Li ha al Cl ch it th Isi ha dc Ri su wl on m dc O'er the Atlanfic, >»3 various bridges Drid can excel it jpon it we were )n for the genius ngineering skill although he did I, but a liner and lot be erected to ipension bridge ! lied Clifton, has d very much in ate dwellings in :ious and fertile nost fashionable rive and prome- ent to visit the iiffe, which still ic monument to robably 175,000, ioing an exten- :h Wales, and is n Railway. We of this city and I rapidl)' grow- ver 3,000,000 of rgest and most jrld ; a few re- therefore not be It was at one time the capital of the Trinoban- tes, n numerous people inhabiting those parts of Britain now called Middlesex and Essex, before the christian era, even in those remote times it was governed by laws and was an important cen- tre of commerce! Caesar denominated it "the chief city of the Trinobantes." Antiquity lias told us notliin;^ of the foiuidcr, but tradition gives it to a " Trojan called Brute, who invaded and conf Warwick, whose crown of England ;)•, which rash am- ; his daughter-in- I, and his son died ! is the name " G. md a great many earings adorn the ivork of those un- 1 time to time did rksome honr away, lose days when a re bagatelle. Well •ress herself in the mind resign ic lliinc." >rrors" we wended ry, viewing, as we t cannon, some of , especially those firs welded togeth- after cask making ed in those days sting among those gun, which, after of the sea, was re- er things, from the ne of the ships of J O'er the Atlantic. 139 to their tower prison, perhaps never to leave it in this life, for within that gate once, the poor cap- tive was wholly subject to the will and caprice of monarchial power, and his life, for a given time, not worth a British farthing. It would be next to an impossibility for man to describe all the black deeds and treacherous doings committed here during the early history of England's Kings and Queens, where torture and cruelty in various ways, the axe and the block reigned supreme ; therefore I will proceed as we were shown, and take my readers into the — White Tower. — This tower is the oldest and principal building, and stands in the centre of the fortification. A spiral staircase of massive stone between walls of immense thickness leads into the various apartments, among which is the prison room and cell of Sir Walter Raleigh, wherein he wrote his history of the world ; near the entrance to the cell are inscriptions rudely cut in the stones by Rudstow, Fane and Culpep \ per, who were implicated in Sir Thomas Wyatt's rebellion in 1553, which proved so fatal to Lady Jane Grey, and for which Sir Thomas was be- headed in the same year. A large room on the upper floor was used as a council room by va- rious Kings, a room of rare antiquity. It was in this room that the Protector Richard, Duke of Gloster, ordered Lord Hastings to be beheaded, ere he, Richard, sat down to his dinner. This room, as are several others in this tower, is now E* i;o O'er the AllaiitU, ,!tV ! \ used as a depository for small arms, ingeniously arranged so as to resemble flowers, &c. The Bi.ooDv TowKR— is the scene of the murder of the young Princes, sons of Edward IV, in 1483- The Bki.i, Tower— wherein is hung tlie alarm bell «)f the garrison, was in olden time a prison lodg- ing. In it was imprisoned the Hishop of Roch- ester by command of Henry VIII, it was also the lodging place of Oueen Elizabeth, when a prisoner here by command of her sister Mary (bloody Mary), who wielded so much power during her eventful reign. The Dkverf.ux Towkr— derives its name from Rob- ert Devereux, Earl of Essex, the great favorite of (Jueen Elizabeth, who was confined therein, and whose death she so much mourned, notwith- standing that he was executed by her own order, for, it is said, plotting against her life. Eliza- beth's great struggle between resentment and af- fection, ere she could sign the death warrant, and of which she so bitterly repented when too late, is too well known to need any further com- ments from me on the subject. The BowvEK Tower — contains a ghwmy room wherein George, Duke of Clarence, is said to have been drowned in a butt of wine in 1474 The Brick Tower — was the prison lodging of Lady Jane Grey, and the Martin Tower— was also a prison lodging ; '■ *• ♦> i inns, ingenitjusly ;rs, &c. The of the murder of Edward IV, in ? the alarm bell >e a prison lodg- Hishop of Roch- '^III, it was also lixabeth, when a lier sister Mary >o much power name from Rob- 2 great favorite onfined therein, >urned, notwith- f her own order, lier life. Eliza- ientment and af- death warrant, •ented when too •ny further com- The gloomy room snce, is said to f wine in 1474. odgingof Lady prison lodging ; i is- i O'lr ilic AUanlii. «3S are also exhibited to the curious. ()u our rt'- turn through the Horse Armory from tins room our attention was particularly directed loan effigy of Charles I 011 horseback, dressed in a com- plete suit of rich gilt armor, presented to him by the corporation of the city of London, wiiich was very beautiful indeed. Passing from here we next visited the fire and bomb i)roof njom containing the— Rkoai.ia ok Enci.and — the splendor of which we will not attempt to describe. Grouped to- gether on a large stand, covered with crimson cloth and encircled witli a massive inm railing, jealously guarded within and without, is the re- galia of England's sovereigns, comprising the Victoria Crown, composed of gold and silver, diamonds and other precious stones, the cap of which is purple velvet. St. Edward's Crown, composed of gold, embellijhed with diamonds, rubies, emeralds, pearls, &c. The Prince of Wales' crown is of pure gold with no ornaments. The Queen's crown, i. e., that worn by the King's consort, and the Queen's diadem made for the con sort of James II, are very handsome ; both are studded with diamonds of a large size and of the purest water, artistically embellished with the finest of pearls. St. Edward's staff is of gold, four feet seven inches in length, and is used at coronations, when it is carried before the King or Queen, as it may be. It is surmounted by an orb said to contain a portion of the true •"f ■ »36 O'er tht Allantic. dim* Tlie Royal Sceptic is of jrold adorn- ed with costly jewels. The Rod of Equity is of gold and ornamented with diamonds. The (Jueen's Sceptre is of very rich workmanship beautifully adorned with precious stones. An Ivory Sceptre was made for James II's gueen, and ancither richly wrought golden sceptre was made f«»r William Ill's Queen. Several other arti- cles, generally used at coronations, such as swords, &c., complete the regalia, the »alue of which, I presume, would be difficult to esti- mate. We will nf)w take our leave of this old fortress, prison, palace and armory, with its secret passag- es, torture rooms, dungeons, cells and prison lodg- ings, all of which are identified with the dark ages in wljich the oldest portion of it was built, and as we pass by, pause before that gloomy archway, the "Traitor's Gate," where oftentimes have royalty, nobility, the clergy and gentry passed its threshold, to exchange for the bril- liancy of court, porv:p and splendor, lofty posi- tions and the comforts of home, the cold and damp walls of a dungeon, the torture room, and last, but not least welcome, the friendly services of the headsman. Sad indeed is thy record, old tower ; a detailed account of the atrocities com- mitted within thy walls would fill volumes ; for eight kundred years hast thou served for various *The Cross of our Saviour. - l!> I O'fr the Atlantic, U3 of jrold adorn- \ of Equity is of iuinonds. The li W(>riini August, 1782. exclusively to ■ trophies, &c., Vaterloo, 18 15, , and a host of COS where the int. Here we Duke of York, le wore when e were shown ds Balmerino, aded in 1746, thumb screws id punishment >rt confession, O'lr Ihe Atlantic, »37 purposes ir' H-hicii lime the renowned, the notorious anil die innocent have pined witliin thy walls until grim death generously relieved them of thy forced hospitality ; and could thy chapel, wherein rests so many of thy victims, hut deliver up its dead to life, much could be related of thee and thy keepers which has never been committed to history. In my next I will request my readers to ac- company me to Hampton Court, and Windsor Castle. I |.^i!i,il 138 O'er the Atlantic. I LETTER XIII. ENGLAND, CONTINUED. Hampton Court.— Having been permitted to emerge in safety from the confines of tiie old Tow- er, we the following day went by rail to Hampton Court. This palatial residence is situated on the right bank of the river Thames, twelve miles out of London, and was built by Thomas, Cardinal Wolsey, during the reign of Henry VIII., whose Prime Minister he was for some time ; I may say minister and fjvvorite, for Wolsey during his days of clover was the readiest of all that monarch's council to advance his capricious whims, and lewd, barbarous conduct, in return for which, all matters of state fell to his goverance alone i indeed, such was his rule that he became supreme, and such was the power he wielded over King and Court, that he affected to govern without Parliaments, two of which were only held for fourteen years. He was for many rea- sons the disgrace of his profession, "being lewd and vicious himsglf, and serving the King (says his biographer) in all his secret pleasures; his «- »^ pri in do OM ed to "1 be Ki th^ Ai W{ fli or »F fo Pi an en af ui hi se K hi K in ui be th es ic. O'er the Atlantic. 139 I. JED. )een permitted to esoftheoldTow- y rail to Hampton is situated on the , twelve miles out rhomas, Cardinal f Henry VHI., for some time ; I ix Wolsey during idlest of all that J his capricious liuct, in return for to his goverance J that he became )wer he wielded fected to govern t'hich were only as for many rea- on, "being lewd \ the King (says et pleasures; his '^ pride and pomp was unbounded and his ambition in proportion, for he even aspired to the Pope- dom, which he failed to obtain. He became the owner of vast possessions and his income exceed- ed the revenues of the Crown, thus enabling him to live in the most princely style;" but it is a " long lane that has no turning," for he at last became unpopular with his libertine master, the King, and, eventually, a matter connected with the divorce of Queen Catharine (Catharine of Arragon) and other matters wherein the King was directly interested, shook his power and in- fluence to that extent over his Royal master, that on October 28, 1529, he was commanded to give up the great seal, and his goods were all seized for the King's use and himself impeached in Parliament for exercising jower contrarj- to law, and for the scandalous irregularities of his life. His enemies continued to revile him, and disaster after disaster followed him until he died, when under arrest for treason, November 29, 1530. In his last moments he " regretted that he had not served God with the same fidelity that he had his King." A little before he died he addressed him- himself in the following words to Sir William Kingston, Constable of the tower, who had him in custody : " I pray you have me fieartily recommended unto his royal majesty, and beseech him on my behalf to call to his remembrance all matters that have passed between us from the beginning, especially with regard to his business with the i] i,,f- %, 140 OW the AthntU. Queen, arid then he will know in his conscience whether I have offended him. "He is a prince of a most royal carriage, and liath a princely heart and rather than he will miss or want any part of his will, he will endan- ger the one-half of his kingdom. I do assure you that I have often kneeled before him, some times three hours .together, to persuade him from his will and appetite, but could not prevail. Iherefore, let me advise you, if you be one of tae privy council, as by your wisdom you are fit, take care what you put into the King's head, for you can never put it out again."— C«m/rt'/V//. Thus ended the days of the man who from poverty raised himself to be prime minister of England, the favorite of Emperors, Kings and Princes, and the terror of thousands. A man who wielded such power and influence as but few if any but Richlieu of France ever did, and to whom, history, perhaps has not done just ice. I will now proceed to give a brief descrip. tion of his once princely residence : Hampton Court, long before VVolsey became disgraced, but about the time the King began to be jealous of the pomp and splendor he lived in, suddenly became the property of the latter. Stowe remarks of the circumstance thus : " The princely residence began to create envy at court. The King therefore took occasion to' question the Cardinal as to his intentions of building a palace that so far surpassed any of the royal pal- aces in England," to which the Cardinal cun- ningly replied "that he was onlv trving to form . a rei that Kinj him of SI fjrt not the I vori favo leig beer of .. well here Jane davs VII the I shor aboi live( beer gon( was Catl fate csca port cal, ceas L in his conscience yal carriage, and ler than he will 11, he will endan- >ni. I do assure before him, some irsuade him from jld not prevail. f you be one of sdom you are fit, King's head, for — Cavendish. man who from rime minister of rors, Kings and usands. A man influence as but ranee ever did, as not done just a brief descrip. ;;e : VVolsey became King began to idor he lived in, of the latter, cethus: "The e envy at court, on to question s of building a if the royal pal- Cardinal cun- trying to form O'et the Atlantic. 141 a residence worthy of so great a 'monarch, and that Hampton Court palace was the property of King Henry the VUI." This princely gift gained him much favor, and was the immediate means of supporting his waning influence. In return f jr this generous present Henry, who determined not to be outdone in generosity, bestowed upon the Cardinal the Manor of Richmond, an old fa- vorite residence of Henry VH, and with him a favorite resort also, during the early part of his reign. Since which time Hampton Court has been the residence of several of the monarchs of England, as also that of Oliver Crom- well smd his family. Henry VI was born here O b?r 12th, 1537, and his mother, Jane Sc^'. gjif' only survived his birth a few days. S^ • is one of the wives of Henry VIII, and WHS married to the brute the day afttr the unfortunate Anne Boleyn was beheaded; but short was her reign as Queen, for she died in about a year after her marriage. And had she lived much longer the probability would have been that she, like her predecessors, would have gone headless to the grave. Catharine Howard was his next Queen at Hampton Court, and Catharine Parr followed ; the former shared the fate of Anne Boleyn, and the latter but narrowly escaped it also, but ere another op- portunity offered for her decapitation, the tyrani- cal, obstinate, unfeeling and lewd Henry VIII ceased to exist in this life. i'f^l I'r 142 O'er the Atlantic. ,1 \m- ' 01 Numerous Kings and Queens continued to spend a great portion of their time at Hampton Court, until the reign of George II, who, ac- companied by his Queen, Caroline, were the last of royalty who resided there. In its present state Hampton Court is occupied partly by private individuals, pensioners upon the Royal bounty of the Crown, principally, in- deed, I may say all. Ladies of rank without wealth, in plain English, empty title ladies, whose sires or husbands have faithfully served their country, leaving nothing but a good record and a name behind them at the time of their death. Apart from the rooms allotted to their use arc the state apartments, open to the public gratui- tously on every day of the week except Friday, as are also the beautiful and very extensive grounds which surround it. In the state apartments are to be seen beautiful and ancient tapestry, embracing Scriptural and other subjects. Oil paintings, by various masters, ot Monarchs, Princes, nobilitj', and officers of the army and navy, battle and scriptural scenes, &c., some of which are by the most eminent art- ists of their time. There are also in addition to the paintings very ancient furniture, such as mir- rors, bedsteads, tables, and among which is the state bed and hangings of Queen Anne, a clock which goes for twelve months without winding, some fine specimens of crockery and a variety of other equally interesting relics. rr. O'er the Atlantic. >43 ins continued to time at Hampton rge II, who, ac- line, were the last Court is occupied pensioners upon n, principally, in- of rank without :itle ladies, whose illy served their :ood record and a i of their death. to their use arc le public gratui- k except Friday, very extensive ae seen beautiful Scriptural and various masters, and oificers of ;riptural scenes, ost eminent art- in addition to ire, such as mir- ig which is the 1 Anne, a clock ithout winding, ind a variety of The writer having taken his readers hurriedly through this ancient palace, for to give in detail what is to be seen there, would, as he has had oc- casion to remark heretofore, "occupy too mucli time and space," will therefore have to request his readers to accompany him to a palace of still more grandeur and antiquity ; viz : that of — Windsor Castle. — This immense palace is. without exception, the finest and largest of the Royal residences in the united Kingdom, and so vast is its size that it may be termed a town in itself It was first intended for a fortress by William the Conqueror. Henry I enlarged it consid- erably, and in 1170 Henry II held a Parlia- ment there, at which William, King of Scotland, and his brother David. were present. Edwards I and II made it their constant residence. In 1344 Edward III made vast improvements and additions to it. It was this Prince who here instituted the order of the garter on St. George's day with much pomp and ceremony in 1349. Ed- ward IV rebuilt on a large scale the beautiful chapel of St. George, and Henrys VII and VIII did much to enlarge and beautify the build- ings and grounds. Queen Mary and her consort, Philip of Spain, made a grand entry into it in 1545, after their marriage at Winchester. Eliza- beth, Charles I and II, William III, George III, and especially George IV have con- tributed much to the improvement and enlarge- I I. Il' fil 144 O'er the Atlantic. iiieiit ot Windsor Castle, but to the latter tlic very magnificent alteration made during hts leign. will for ages untold be a monument to his memory. What remained unfinished at the time of his demise were completed bv William IV and her present majesty Queen Victoria. The whole ot those Improvements, it is said, cost up. wards of one million pounds sterling, and still mechanics are at work adding, embellishing, re- pairing and keeping in repair this ancient and very interesting structure. TlK- Queen and the late Prince con.sort sur- rounded by their family (,ftentimes retired to Windsor from the gaiety and pleasures of Lon- don Indeed, Her Majesty had but left the Castle on the day previous to our visit, for her Scottish residence Balmoral, in the north of Scotland where she generally spends cverv year a few' weeks among her loyal and loving Scotch subjects. Having obtained our cards of admission through a friend before leaving London, we were soon ushered into the state apartments, first reg- istering our names on the visitors' book as we entered the lobby, where stood one of Her Maj- esty's servants clad in the Roval livery, that of scarlet turned up with gold lace, the state apartments, the round tower and St. George's chapel are all that are shown during Her Majes- ty s absence. The private apartments, i. e., those wherein she resides, setting royalty, I may say. aside, can only be seen during the time that the court IS here. O'lr the Atlitiitic. '45 to the latter tlie lade during his monument to his Jshed at tlie time by William IV I Victoria. The is said, cost u| ■• eriing, and still :mbellishing, rc- his ancient and ce consort sur- ;inies retired to easures of Lon- iit left the Castle for her Scottish th of Scotland, ery year a few- Scotch subjects. of admission ondon, we were nents, first reg- rs' book as we le of Her Mnj- livery, that of ce. The state J St. George's ng Her Majes- snts, i. e., those Ity, I may say, B time that the \Vc: first eiUfretl tlie iuidiciuc cliaiubfr, the walls of which are lumi? with fine (iobcrlin tapes- try, illustrative i)artly of tlie history of ()ueeii Ksther and Monlecai, d oil iritings o1" Wil- liam II. Frederick, Pr i^cot '^e, ami Marv, Oueen of Scots. Next is the .iiuiyke room, containing about tliirty beaiilifiil portraits by liie eminent artist of that name; lliey represent Kings, Queens, Princes, nobles ami others. The State Drawing room contains a few very fine Scriptural iiaintings and Royal portraits by RuccaroUi. The Staie .\iite-room, ilie ceiling of which is painted by \'erri, representing a bantpiet of the (iods, contains some very fine carving, and a stained glass portrait of (Jeorge 111 is placed over the fireplace. I'rom here we passed over the grand staircase int(» the vestibule wliicli con- tains military trophies and suits of armor highly interesting, and then entered the — Waterloo Chamber, an elegant large room. tJn the walls are hung various portraits by Sir Thomas Lawrence, among which is a very fine one of the Duke of Wellington, as he appeared in the city on the day of thanksgiving after the battle of Waterloo, s<» fatal to the interest of the first Napoleon, but the meaii;*of restoring peace and confidence in Europe. The Presence Chamber, the carving and glid- ing in this room is grand, and the walls are hung with the finest and richest of CJobelin tapestry, descriptive of the history <^f the golden fleece. K M i, 1 146 O'tr the Atlantic. In my next I will give to my readers the re- mainder of what we saw in Windsor Castle as also what other sights and scenes we saw during our stay in the great metropolis of Great Britain, and then leave its hospitable shore for a while to visit France. UJdassjtt asaAxttBtt-anH he. my readers the re- kVindsor Castle, as nes ue saw during s of Great Britain, lore for a while to O'er lite AUanti( «47 LETTKR XiV. F.Ndl.ANl), COMINl 111. VViMisdk ("Asrr.K, Continued. — From tlie "Pres- ence Chiimber" wc were conducted into St. George s Hall, a rf)oni two luindred feet long, thir- ty-four feet hruad and tliirtv-two feet liigh. It is the grand banqueting hall, tne ceiling is deco- rated with the armorial bearings of all tlie knights of the garter up to the present tinn;, and on the walls are many fine portraits in oil of all the Sovereigns frf)ni James I to (rcorge IV'. The Guixni Chambir contains arms and specimens of ancient armor very ingeniously arranged on the walls, and there are several life-like efligies, armed cap-a-pie., huce in hand, and busts of Wellington and Marlborough, over the heads of which are placed silk banners, regularly renewed on the anniversaries of the battles of Waterloo and Blenheim. Over the fire place is the beau- tiful shield, in a glass case, which was presented by Frances I, of France, to Henry VIII» on the field of the Cloth of Gold, so called from the gorgeous and magnificent display made on ,— 1, 148 (Ter ihr Atlantic, tl)at occasion by tliusc Monanlis and their retinues, when tiiey met socially between the two towns named Guisnes and Ardrcs, i.i |-iiince. in 1320, where also "tlie nobility of France and JCngland" displayed their iiiagnilicence with such emulation and profuse expense, as to procure for llic pl.-ke of interview I hi- name of " the Field of tlie Cloth of (iold." Among numerous other relics and curiosities in this Chamber are two chairs, one made from tile oak of Alloway Kirk (immortalized by Uurns in his poem of Tam O'Shanter and Souter John- ny), and the other from the oak tree where the Duke of Wellington and siaflf st.jod while direct- ing the battle of Waterloo. Die Queens Presence Cliamber was the last room we were shown into, the ceiling of which is beautifully painted by V'errio, representing Calh.iriMe, Outen of Ct arles If. supported by Religion. Prudence, Forti- tude, and other virtues attending her. and the walls are hung with gobelin tapestry, containing the illustrative history (as in the Audience Cham- ber) of Queen Kstiier and Mordecai. We next proceeded to view .SV. Georjrc's Chapel, the cxtericjr of which bears on us face the marks of old age, and entered just as preparations were being made to hold the regular afternoon service. So imitat- ing the example sot us by other visitors, we ap- jjropriated to ourselves seats, and were shortly afterwards silent listeners to the most beautiful chanting f ever heard, the fine undulating tones ' — " 1, [irths and their betWL'cn the two 'cs, ill i"iiiiu(.'. ill of France and licence witli such lis to procure for e of " the Field : and curiosities one made from talized by Burns nd Soiiter Jolni. : tree where tiie lod uhiledirect- (Jutfu's Prcseiici: t'cre shown into, nlly painted by hii'cn (jf Cf.arles iiideiue, Forti- ig her. and the srry, containinir Viidience Cliain- ecai. We next . '/'/, the exterior arics of old age, •ere being made nee. So imitat- visitors, we ap- d were shortly most beautiful idiilating tones ' O'er the Atlantic, 149 of the organ and the voices of sonic of the jiivi'- nile chanters being of tlie most exquisite kind. Tiic service was in full cathedral style, and was coiifkicted with imicli soli iiinity ; indeed, it was a solemn and grand manner of worshiping Almighty God, whicli even of itself amplv repaid me for visiting Windsor Castle. Divine wn :ire recorded the names of those knights who haVc from time to time jr„ne to that world where titk and styh availeth them not. and on the several windows of the choir are also painted their respci live coats of arms. 'J'lu- Qiii-ens Closet, muX the stalls wherein sit the various mcmlu-rs u\ the Roval familv are eagerly sou^dit fur and scrutinized cl..seiv by visitors, and lastly the various tombs are visited. 'J he royal tomb or vault is near the altar, and I Avas informed only contains the remains of Charles I, Ifenry VIII and Jane Sevmour. Various others of the n.yal familv beinsr interred elsewhere. In a small chapel is a splendid mar- ble monument to the memory of that most ex- cellent and estimable lady the Princess Charlotte, wife of the late Kini,- Leopold, of 1 Milium It represents the body of the deceased on a bier, covered with drapery, uitl. an attendant at each corner kneeling in despondency and sorrow ; in the back ground is represented the spirit ascend- ing, supported by two angels, one of whom bears aloft her infant child. This elegant piece of workmanship appears to great advantage fronj the reflection of the stained glass window of the little chapel, which diffuses a beautiful soft gold- \ O'er the Athnlic. '5« M(l at the hack of I ph'Ui', inscrihc'd f each of the foU it many (if such ne of the stalls, ol" those knights ne to that world em not. and on • are also painted alls wherein sit oyal family are i/ed closely hv jnihs are visited. the altar, and I the remains of Jane Seymour, y beinsj interred a splendid mar- if that most ex- ncess ('harlottc, ;)f lkl the memory of others of the royal family, military and naval heroes, &i:. And beneath a lofty stone called the royal tomb- house erectetl by Henry V'lII, are the re- mains of the Princess Amelia, 1810 — Princess Charlotte, 1818 — Duke of Kent, 1820 — George III, 1820 Duke of York, 1827 George IV, 1830— William iV, 1837— Princess Au- gusta, 1820, and the Dowager Queen Adelaide, 1849. The "Duke of Kent" was the father of the present Queen, and had he been permitted to survive "William IV'," would have been King of Great Britain ; hence, why his only child, Victoria, became Queen, a position she has filled for thirty years with the greatest honor and credit, respected and beloved both at home and abroad. The Dutchess of Kent (the Queen's mocher) and Prince Albert are interred in the vault at Frogmore Jjouse, the late residence (if the Dutchess, which is also open to visitors, but time would not permit of our going there. Before leaving Windsor Castle we visited the Round Tower and Terrace grounds. One hun- dred steps, then a wide spiral stairway, and as many more, perhaps double the quantity of stops brought us to the top of the former, and fium ,.-.*~.- I, '5-' ' 0\'r the Atlantic. wliicli we obtained an excellent view of tlie Cas- tle and grounds, and also of the several counties of Berks, Bucks, Surrey, Middlesex, Oxford, Hants, Wilts. Es.sex, Flertford, Bedford and Kent. From tlie flagstaff tov/ering high above us is hoisted to the breeze, while Her Majesty resides in the castle, the royal standard, and we were informed that in apartments in this tower. David, King of Scotland and France, and the Farl of Surrey were confined. At present it is converted into apartments for the accommoda- tion of visitors, &c. While on the terrace we obtained an excellent view of the winding river, "old father Thames," and of Eaton College, founded in 1440 by Henry ^'I, so popular as one of the upper schools (jf England. We also saw a monster cannon im- ported from China, which weighs over seven tons. Many other things worthy of note arc to be seen ii and around Windsor Castle, for in- stance, the royal mews (Queen's stables), riding school, gardens, the home Park, Frogmore lodge. Ascot race course, Virginia water, &c. But alas, we had no time to visit those places, so had re- luctantly to bid old Windsor and its fine castle farewell, and take the six p. m. train for London, via. Paddington, thence by the "Metropolitan underground railway" to Moorgate street in the city, near to our hotel in Basinghall street, where we arrived quite fatigued, yet well satisfied with our trip to Windsor. t,. O'er the Atlanlit. »S3 ; view of tlie Cas- e several counties iddlescx, Oxford, rd, Bedford and ering high above hile Her Majesty standard, and we nts in this tower, France, and the At present it is the accommoda- ined an excellent I father Thames," in 1440 by Henry e upper schools nster cannon im- ighs over seven hy of note are to jr Castle, for in- s stables), riding Frogmore lodge, -•r, &c. But alas, (laces, so had re- nd its fine castle rain for London, ; "Metropolitan fute street in the lall street, where ell satisfied with ! will now have to "make a long story short," contenting myself with giving my readers but a brief account of the other places we visited dur- ing our stay in London, some of which were very interesting. I will first name the British Museum, and let me here remark that n(. person should visit London without going to see this lioneycomb of antiquities and rare curiosi- ties, to enumerate which would occupy a lifetime of scores of years. Suffice it to say that it contains in part, mummies, skeletons of ani- mals, stuffed birds, ancient and modern coins, minerals, precious stones, golden nuggets, gold dust, ancient and modern sculpture, ancient tombs from Asia, quaint ar d costly relics from Nineveh, ancient documents, letters, seals, books, pictures, statuary and hosts of other remarka- ble, nay, astonishing, things of the past ages, dating back thousands of years beyond the christian era. To do justice to which, months should be spent by the visitor and antiquarian in exploring this seat of wonder, containing won- ders ; and if you should want to see anythinr; that the human mind can think of, go to the British Museum, and I verily believe you will find it there. I will now proceed to give an equally brief ac- count of Sydenham Crystal Palace, the most mag- nificent place, I believe, in the world. We spent there a whole day, and I was only too sorry Avhen leaving, to know I could not make it con- «54 O'er the Atlantic, It venient to go there again/ but I came away charmed with the land of flowers, beautiful shrubbery, playing fountains, elegant statuarv, smooth terraces, fine gravel walks, shady little nooks, beautiful fish ponds aboundingwitli gold- en and other fish. Its hillsand dales, romantic and picturesque beyond conception, and lastly its truly magnificent and spacious glass building, abound- ing with novelties of every age. Sydenham Pal- ace is that, to a certain extent, which was erected in 185 r, in Hyde Park, London, for the exhibition of industry of all nations, taken down and re- moved to this place for re-erection, which has been done with some further improvements and alterations, making it to-day the wonder and ad- miration of the world. Indeed, the vast build- ing is a city of workshops and stores in itself! And while we were within its glass walls, I had the pleasure of hearing the celebrat- ed English tenor singer, Sims Reeves, and others ot vocal celebrity, male and female, among whom was Madam Santan Dolby, a star of much magnitude in the profession. They sang in the great Handel Orchestra, which is capable of ac- commodating four thousand performers The building is divided into courts, represent- ing the architecture, &c., peculiar to the various countries and places they are named after, of which there are ten ; viz :_the Egyptian court, Greek, Roman, Alhambra, Nineveh, Byzantine English, Mediaeval, Renaissance and Italian coi an cot ufa for me An gei is : Di^ hib the mil we ivc wi fas on m: Ti ci( an In of qii Sa se ed se SI ar '"1, t I came away owers, beautiful legant statuary, ilks, shady little iding]witli gold- es, romantic and id lastly its truly iiilding, abound- Sydenham Pal- lich was erected )r the exhibition down and re- tion, which has provements and wonder and ad- the vast build- stores in itself! ts glass walls, the celebrat- ives, and others female, among a star of much ey sang in the capable of ac- rmers. jrts, represent- to the various amed after, ot gyptian court, eh, Byzantine, and Italian O'et the Atlantic. 155 courts. There is also a place called the Poinpci- an house, and there arc also what may be termed courts of industry, which are open for the man- ufacture and sale of various articles to visitors ; for instance, the " Sheffield court " is an establish- ment open for the sale of what we call in America, hardware, which means there iron-mon- gery, and which includes cutlery, &c. Tiiis court is a beautiful structure of glass and iron. In the Birmingham court, another very fine place, is ex- hibited for sale the various articles peculiar to the place from which it takes its name. There may be seen sewing machines in operation, silk weaving, braid making, glass blowing, wood and ivory carving, &c., &c. in s!.ort, you can obtain within the walls of this hive of industry, articles fashioned after the style of almost every country on the globe. After the various courts follow the main galleries, model gallery and picture gallery. The main galleries are loaded with various arti- cles from Europe, Asia, Africa and America, among which are rare and choice specimens of Indian arms, armor, (Oriental garments, models of Indian Mosques and Pagodas, curious and quaint carving in wood and ivory. The model gallery contains models of bridges, houses, ves- sels and marine appliances, designed and execut- ed in Great Britain. In this department can be seen, of precise dimensions, an exact model ot Shakespeare's house in Sfatford-upon-Avon, and a model of the Britannia tubular bridge »S6 O'er the Atlantic. erected across the Menai strait in North Wales. And in the picture gallery is exhibited upwards '• 'hat Uncle Sam is ifnatH *^^*"" °f John B"" for accommodations both on uoaid railway cars and steamers. •"t- 1 rations to leave ^ fine morning aking the train J were soon en of hours were o take us across Dieppe. Such t for a tug-boat 'grace fo a civ- emark applica- European coun- e. America) the loth on rail and or man is sup- I ; at all events, uch below par, oncerned, trav- Amertca. Then hat Uncle Sam is lodations both on O'er the Atlantic. '59 why is it that the comfort of the people cannot be studied equally as well ? The answer is ^ s. d ! "The rank is but the Ruinea-stamp, The man is the gowd for a' that." Leaving New Haven the small craft steamed across the British channel at the rate of ten miles per hour, and in seven hours we were landed on the quay at Dieppe, whence we proceeded imme- diately to the railway station, there to take the cars for Paris. And as we have to return via. Dieppe, I will refrain from giving any account of the place until our return. So after par- taking of refreshments we took our seats in a su- perior carriage to those we traveled in while on the other side of the channel, and commenced the overland journey through ancient Norman- dy, of which I shall also speak hereafter, to the gay metropolis of France. Away we sped, travers- ing the banks of the Seine nearly the whole way, until we arrived in Paris, which wc entered late at night, and were soon driven to the Hotel de Londres et Milan, in the Rue St. Ayacinthe,* a house recommended to us by an old friend whom I had the pleasure of meeting when in Wales, which, unfortunately for us, was crowded with sight seers to tlie Exhibition ; but the proprietor very politely informed us that if we would con- descend to occupy apartments for the night, which they had engaged for sleeping rooms • Robespierre met his tragic fate in a room in this build- ing. ^11 -•Y^ •'?«»w/:f^--=«»- , 1, i6o O'er the Atlantic. m apart from tlie liotcl, that in the morning wc should be accommf)dated with rooms in the ho- tel ; which i)roposition we, being fatigued, gladly accepted. Morning came and fotind us like many more in the world-renowned city of Paris, with but a mighty slim knowledge of the French language, about a do/en words being all the writer had at his command, and even tiiose few of so very an imperfect pronunciation, that it was with greatest difficulty he could make Johnny Crapeau comprehend their meaning, a circumstance most harrassing and perplexing to a foreigner. Paris appeared to me to be all France, and the only place in the, whole Empire, i)robably, where rapid and vast improvements were being made. The piles of buildings which have been torn down to give place to others of more style and beauty, and to widen streets and thoroughfares, during the reign of the present Emperor, is astonishing, and the comparison between ancient and modern Paris to-day is so great that it is called the handsomest city in the world. It certainly has some fine places ; for instance, the Rue dc Rivoli is an elegant otreet, comprised of stores, exhibiting the finest and most costly works of Parisian art and fashion. Directly opposite which is the elegant Palace of the-Tuilleries with its extensive gardens and public prome- nades. The Boulevards des Italiens and other public thoroughfares are also very fine, and af- .>a:ff«(VEA5J«& ■ ••%. O'er the Atlantic. i6i the morning \vc rooms in the ho- l fatigued, gladly lilce many more Paris, with but a ["rcnch language, all the writer those few of so , that it was with Johnny Crapeau rcumstance most breigner. France, and the probably, where ere being made. .' been torn down ityle and beauty, Lighfares, during r, is astonishing, \ ancient and that it is called Id. It certainly ice, the Rue de Drised of stores, costly works of rectly opposite f the-Tuilleries public prome- liens and other ry fine, and af- ford delightful walks beneath the shade of nu- merous well planted trees, while the Champs Elys- ses is the most deli'jjlitful place in the whole city. We had an opportunity of visiting this fashiona- ble drive and promenade during the " Fetes de Napoleon," a national holiday like that of our fourth of July, upon which occasion it is illumi- nated at night witii tens of thousands of gas lights shaded with variegated glass globes, form- ing, from the entrance to the gardens of the Tuil- leries, through the Place de la Concorde to the Arc de Triomphe, at the e.Ktreme end, a most magnificent and brilliant scene, such as is but seldom witnessed. I was walking along this charming place one day during the preparations which were being made for the Fetes, upon which occasion I was fortunate, for it was the only time 1 saw the Emperor during my stay in the city. My attention was first called to the fact of his presence by the sudden and rather tame remark of some person near me saying, "le Empereur: le Emperetir!" Then I saw the crowd run to the sidewalks ; of course I was glad of the opportunity thus afforded me to see the man who has occupied for years so promi- nent a position in the affairs of E;irope, so fol- lowed the crowd. At a leisurely pace came along two open car- riages, each drawn by four beautiful and richly caparisoned horses, with postillions, i. e., drivers riding each near horse, attended by a small es- 1. 162 O'er Ihf Atlantic. f anv quantity of bologn.i sausages, rye bread, sweitzer-case and b<>ik beer. I will now ask my readers .to leave the Exposition, and accompany me to the llori'.i. DKs Invai.idks. — This immense charita- ble institution was commenced by Louis XIV, in 167 1, and restored by Napoleons [ and III. It gives shelter to about 3,000 maimed, old and invalided soldiers, and under its dome now rests the remains of the once great Napoleon, which were removed from St. Helena in 1840. J'he crvpt of circular form is open, the sarcopha- gus is placed in tlie centre, and the walls are em- bellished with statuary of colossal proportions, representing the Emperor's twelve principal vie- 1/ »^. i66 O'er the Atlantic. tories. A marble staircase leads to the entrance of this crypt, and on the right and left are maus- oleums of Duroc and Bertrand, two of his faith- ful generals and sharers of his captivity. The tomb is upwards of four yards long, two feet wide, about five feet high, and stands on a green granite base. In a black marble vault, facing the entrance door, stands a white marble statue of the deceased Emperor, attired in coronation robes. * Before leaving this building I was shown, among other things, the plans in bas-relief of the principal strongholds of France, which were really worth seeing; for large cities and forts, with their extensive grounds in and around them, in miniature, was almost like visiting the originals in person. Such plans cannot fail to give the engineer a very accurate knowledge of tlic strength and position of such places durintr a seige. In the library are about 20,000 volumes of choice military works, and while in there I was shown the bullet which killed Turenne, in 1675 two torches used by him in his campaign, a sil- ver model of his equestrian statue, and a plan in relief of the "Hotel des Invalides," leaving which we emerged into the open air and viewed some cannon, which are arranged right and left ' of the entrance, comprised of Algerian, Chinese and French manufacture. The latter were those that formerly belonged to the "Armv of Ee-vot " Afore amn. ' ^ ' 1 in int est tra all cia Ch by crc Sa an an er er( ele th( be ed do wi su >/ Tfci— IC. ds to the entrance and left are maus- I, two of his faith- s captivity. The is long, two feet stands on a green rble vault, facing itc marble statue 3d in coronation I I was shown, ' in bas-relief of nee, which were cities and forts, in and around like visiting the IS cannot fail to te knowledge of -h places during ooo volumes of e in there I was urenne, in 1675, ;ampaign, a sii- le, and a plan in ilides," leaving air and viewed i right and left gerian, Chinese itter were those rmy of Egypt." O'er the Atlantic. 167 LETTER XVI. FRANCE, CONTINUED. From the " Hotel des Invalides" we proceeded in the charge of a guide and interpreter, a very intelligent person, to visit other places of inter- est and note. First visiting the " Halles Cen- tral" (market place), Commercial Courts, where all matters connected with commerce are judi- cially settl3d, and Saint Chapelle, or the Holy Chapel, a most magnificent place built in 1245 by St. Louis, to contain the crown of thorns, the cross, spear, and other so-called relics of our Saviour. It is divided into two chapels, upper and lower, the upper one being much superior and more extravagantly decorated than the low- er one; the walls and ceilings are profusely cov- ered with gilt, and the ca ving in wood is very elegant. The lower chapel is, notwithstanding the line of comparison that I have drawn, a very beautiful place also. Leaving here we proceed- ed to the Cathedral de Notre Dame, a stupen- dous piece of masonry of the most ancient order, with its scores of statues representing scriptural subjects, adorning the main entrance, and other s, i68 O'lr ihf Atlantic. embdlislimcnts in stone of tlie nirest kind. It was in tlie course of completion for three Inin- dred years, is three lunidred and ninety feet iontj one hundred and forty feet wide, one hundred and two feet high, and of the Gothic stvle. A very handsome tomb in memorv of Archbishop Aftre IS erected within its wails. The Bishop was killed in ,848 when endeavoring to stay the insurrection of that period. In the church of St. Etienne du Mont, are two beautikil .p.ral stairca.ses of veiy elegant work- manship, and it contains the tomb Jf St Gene v.cye, the patron Saint of Paris. The Pantheon "s the scene of the conflict between the people =u.d the troops, in ,848. and the massive colunlns o the main entrance, as also parts of the inte- i>or bear evidence on their face, of the severe 'oaHict that raged between them. The people nnsed barric.tdes, took possession of the dm ich andfot^ht Aom within its gates with that des- ua ion only known to a people fully bent upon not being conquered but in death. For a lonL^ tnne th^- l,eld possession of the place tuuil k was riddled with shot, when, finding further re sistance useless, they commenced the work of death among themselves, until not one was left to render an account of their doings upon earth So when the military entered the church, it was only to find nothing but the bleeding corpses of a brave and determined people, who wouldVatl.:; die than gn-e ni to despotic power. In this church he the remains of X'oltaire and Rousseau. I \ Tl centi an ai ow c tlien cepti supp ador be s( man was iden of F orat( war> is th pero Cha styl( also Tl Con the fine the jnuc T thoi roiu was Naj f, k f O'er the Atlatttic. 169 rart'st kind. It I lor three liiin- ninety feet long. de, one hundred ^rotiiic style. A \- ot" Archbishop 1^. The Bishop Jiing to stay the u Mont, are two ■ elegant work- lib of St. Gene- The Pantheon veen the people nassive columns arts of the inte- . of the severe I". J'he people II of the church i with that des- rully bent upon h. For a long place until it ing further re- l the work of )t one was left gs upon earth, cluirch, it was ling corpses of would rather )wer. In this and Rousseau. The Hotel de Cluny was built in the fifteenth century by the Abbots of Cluny, and lias (piite an ancient appearance. Mary of England, wid- ow of Louis XII, and James of Scotland resided there. It is now used as a imiseiim for tlie re- ception of antiquities, with which it is liberally supplied. Old paintings in oil and tapestry, adorn the walls, and in tlie various chambers can be seen choice and rare articles manufactured many centuries ago. The Palais du Luxembourg was built in 1615 by Catharine de Medicis for a res- idence, and is now the French Senate or House of Peers. The State apartments are richly dec- orated and contain magnificent paintings of the wars of Napoleon. The throne room, wherein is the ancient throne and chair of the first Em- peror, is a most elegant room, and the Senate Chamber, which represents very much the same style as the Senate Chamber in Washington, is also elegantly fitted and furnished. The Corps IvCgislatif, wherein assembles the Congres-j of France, is similarly fitted to that of the Luxembourg, and also contains some very fine paintings, especially a full length portrait of the present Emperor, which shows him to be a much larger man than he really is. The Church of the Madeline, by some persons thought to be the finest building in Paris, is sur- rounded with fifty-two Corinthian pillars. It was commenced during the reign of the first Napoleon, and completed in 1842, and the inte- G •aia.n 170 O'er the Atlantic. rior is very fine indeed. We visited several other places of vvorsliip, all of which had within their walls more or less persons paying their devotions at the shrine of their favorite saint, for which we (among others) were expected to pay, gratuities being demanded, and alirs for various purposes by hosts of beggars, of all ages so ihat the sight- seei bull off shal thoi com P plac of I the. nob an mur XV and Fra; mar of I broi two cial a m or, occi the giyi 1, ^. O'er the Atlantic. n' ted several other had within their g their devotions int, for which we to pay, gratuities arious purposes so ihat the sight- his purse con- 2 ! ! This is the he traveler and I in various man- ucre, until he is lias done paying. e that should be je square, in the >lumn erected by is German cam- iptured cannon, f himself attired extensive build- I, and enlarged s now used as a ay thousands, of fie most eminent ious ages and a ior. B Tuilleries ad- was founded by present the city S residence of Louis Napoleon and his Empress Eugenie. The Emperor has caused to be done much to enlarge and beautify it, but owing to the couri being at home we could not gain ad- mittance into the interior. To enumerate and speak of all tlie public buildings of Paris that we visited, for it is a city of palaces, is almost next to impossible; so I shall liave to reluctantly abandon even the thought, and speak of other points of interest, commencing with the — Place de la Concorde. — This very magnificent place was originally intended to receive a statue of Louis XV, and was called after him; but at the. Revolution, so fatal to the blood royal and nobility of France, this statue was replaced by an image of liberty, and subsequently by the murderous guillotine, on which perished Louis XVI, Marie Antoinette, the Duke of Orleans and a multitude of others of the best blood oi France. Around the place are eight very fine marble statues, which represent the largest cities of France ; and in the centre stands an obelisk, brought from Egypt, on either side of which are two large fountains, the \\/hole presenting, espe- cially at night, with its very numerous gas lights, a most magnificent scene. The Obelisk of Lux- or, from the ruins of Thebes, in Upper Egypt. occupies a prominent position here, and has for the last 40 years. It is covered with hiero- glyphics, and is over 4,000 years old ; which, to- f* * ^ , 7» O'er the AtlanHc. getlier with the colossal statuary, representing the principal cities of France, and the magnifi- cent fountains, form a grand spectacle. The Bridges across the Sa'nc, of which there are many, arc also well Avorthy the attention of the stranger. Tliey are hcautiful works of art, some of which are higiily embellished with stat- uary, placed on the pillars supporting the arches, and facing up and down the river. I would like much to be able lo give a more liberal and graphic account of Paris, but to cnribie me to do so, it would require of me a residence of many months. Near to this spot is the Palais de I'Elysce, where Napoleon signed his last abdication, and wherein the Duke of Wellington, Murat,* the Emperor of Russia, Madame de Pompadour, and Napoleon III, when President, have resided at various times. The Bois de Bolougne, once the favorite hunt- ing ground of the Kings of France, is now a favorite place of resort with the gay and fashion- able Parisians. It is very beautifully laid out with lakes, cascades, walks and drives. One evening we attended a concert in the gar- dens of the Champs Elysees, upon which occa- sion we had the pleasure of hearing the cele- brated band of the " French Guides " play a se- lection of the most popular airs. The members of this band are all picked men and thoroughly skilled in their profession, and the spectacle to ui- .1* ' — ^ . O'er the Atlantic. 173 iry, representing nd the magnifi- ctacle. , of wliicli there the attention of li works of art, ishcd witli stat- rti ng the arches, r. I would like ore liberal and c!rib!(! me to do iidencc of many lais de I'Elysce, abdication, and on, Murat,' the de Pompadour, nt, have resided e favorite hunt- ance, is now a :ay and fashion- tifuUy laid out rives. icert in the gar- Dn which occa- iring the cele- des " play a se- The members and thoroughly the spectacle to be witnessed in this favorite and highly respecta- ble place of entertainment, of an evening, is mag- nificent. Not fiir off from there is on exhibition, and which I saw, the immense and very fine paint- ing of the buttle of Solferino. It occupies the whole of a large circular building, with a mound in the centre, whereon the visitors stand to view the great picture, and over which are scattered brok- en muskets, swords, bayonets, knapsacks, shakos, dismantled cannon, &c., thus almost depicting to the liuman eye the actual field of battle. On the canvass are faithful likenesses of Napoleon III and his generals, as also those of the Austri- ans, and a truthful representation of tlie scenery, in Avhich the battle took place. This immense painting is very interesting, and well worvli seeing. Now a few words about Paris generally. Not- withstanding the great seige of improvement it has undergone and is undergoing daily, Paris does not class with many other cities in Europe and America. Exteriorly the buildings-have an elegant and majestic appearance, but there is a lack of those sanitary measures, regulations and improvements, which now^ so generally adorn the interior of buildings in other countries ; and as to water, it is truly abominable. So with all its numerous palaces, gilded iron work, spark- ling in the sun, and fashionable places of resort, with the gayety and splendor of daily life, it lacks much of being a model city, and in the opin- ion of intelligent Frenchmen, indeed our guide t, ^. '74 O'er the Atjantk tolrl inc as much, thut crc long, bcaiilifi.l as it is 'n many ether rc-spects, much cf it will have t(, •iiKlcrg., souner or later the terrible scenes of 1848.* Apropos of this: "The French people." said he, "will never be satisfied until monarchial rule is absoh.tely abolished and a re,,..blic formed. Xapoicon is onjv tniperor of />vw.-hc never was and neve'r wiH be Emperor of the French : and when he is crowned Emperor of either I shall be prime min- ister, vvhich is not possible. He is a military des- P-t. wlu. wishes to palm off o„ the country an I'cir to the French throne, whose paternity the great mass of the civilian French have their soru.us doubts about ; but, if he lives long enough, he will see his mistake,and if he don't live to see >t, the time will tlien have arrived for Frenchmen to act. Such were nearly the words wherein he expressed himself, confideutiallv, of course, /. .., that I should not speak of it while in France. He upon another occasion, remarked to me that the Emperor dreaded ail this, and that in conse- quence he seldom retired to his bed, for anxiety of miud interfered with sleep. Says the guide, That man don't sleep twelve hours in one week. I will now ask my readers to accompanv us to Versadles, an account of which I will give them in my next. rmn?'"*' '' " """^ '"■•bulent spirit manifested against the and( toric and mad( surn worn fetes scale Extr this such that the ( quer men of w equa peop in til 6th ^ O'tr the Atlantic J75 bcaiiiiful as it is it will liavf to ■ribic scenes of " The Krencli 'e satisfied until tely abolished olcon is onjv vas and never md wlien he is I be prime min- ; a military des- the country an e paternity the icli have their L*s long enough, lon't live to see for Frenchmen rds wherein he of course, /. e., iiile in PVance. :ed to me that that in conse- .*d, for anxiety ays the guide, /lours in one company us to vill give them isted against the :h sooner or later •leonic rule. LETTER XVII. FRANCE, CONTINUED. Palace ok Versailles. — This very magnificent and extensive Palace, now converted into an His- torical Museum, was commenced by Louis XIII, and enlarged and beautified by Louis XIV, who made it his principal and favorite residence ; surrounded with the pomp of Court, beautiful women and brilliant nobles, it was here he gave fetes and entertainments on so magnificent a scale as to astonish all the Courts of Europe. Extravagant sums of money were expended by this monarch on the Palace of Versailles. To such an extent iid lie carry out his extravagance, that he drained the coffers of France and placed the country in a state of bankruptcy, the conse- quence of which was a revolution. After this monarch came Louis XV and Louis XVI, both of whom occupied the Palace and lived at an equally extravagant rate, until the patience of the people again became exhausted, when they rose in their might. Says a certain writer ; • On the 6th of October, 1789, the people of Paris, exas- f< «^. 176 O'lr the AlU'.ntic. ;r pcratfd l.y Hk -ltml-s wlii.li li.ul taken place fluriiig the banquet jfiveu to the djianh in tlie npera lioiise of tlic Pahic i marched on Versiiilles. Marie Antoinette apjieared on liie bakony of tlie lii>t Hoor, accompanied by .Madame and the Dauphin. There was a shout immediately f)f •no cinldrcn:' TIr- Oueen, undaunted bv the danger which this slioul so clearly foretold, advanced alone and unattended. Lafayette pres- ently appeared, and, placing him.self next to her, api^eascd the rage of the mob. The next shout was for the King, who shinvcd himself at once and replied to the cry of the enraged mob, ' The King must come to Paris! ' that he Mould accede to their wishes, confiding all he most dearly prized to the care of his most good and fait/iftd subjects."— The royal family left tiie Chateau at one o'clock in the afternoon (jf that day, soon to be deprived of life at the hands of an infuriated and down-trodden people. Since that day this extensive Palace has been uninhabited. Immediately on entering within the massive gilded gates, whereon are emblazoned the royal arms of France, the stranger is struck with a.ston- ishment at what he sees ; groups of immense size statuary occupy prominent positions in the Palace yard, the appearance of which rivets liim to the spot— makes him spell-bound— and chal- lenges his admiration for its grandeur. We soon found ourselves within the Palace walls, buffetted about by the immense throng of visitors who, like ( sailk our \ walls of vr nent nect( estec; man cove are t time very go t gard Tl by a four ber\ ado) plac dail adis, coll whi edt of ] of ] up whi tair f- .^ — O'et- the Atlantic. 177 lail taken place IC Ciiidlt/s ill rliu cdon Versailles, e Imlcony of tlie adariie and the immediately c)f idaiinted by the -iearly foretold, Lafayette pres- self next to her, The next shout liimself at once !igcd mob, ' The le would accede ic most dearly vd and fait/iful tiie Chateau at lat day, soon to f an infuriated e that day this bited. in the massive oned the royal Lick with aston- ps of immense ositions in the lich rivets Jiim nd — and chal- eur. We soon walls, buffetted " visitors who, like ourselves, had come to sei' tlie sigiils of V'er- sailles. It Avas with iniicli diffKulty we elbowed our way trom one apartment to another. On the wails are hung tlie finest paintings in tlio world, of various sizes, and by a host of the most emi- nent artists. Tliose ui historical events coi< nected with the first F.mpire, jiarticiilarly inti - ested me ; and we traversed, I was informed, as many rooms if placed in a direct line as woulu cover two and a half miles of ground — in whicii are exhibited seven miles of pictures— and by the time we had got through, rest assured, we were very tired— so much so that we were unable to go through the whole of the extensive liowcr gardens and walks. The gardens are divided into squares formed by alleys; immense sheets of water and elegant fountains, statues, pieces of architecture, shrub- bery and '.lowers of almost every description adorn the grounds. Well may this delightful place attract the thousands of visitors it does daily, for it is what may be termed literally, a Par- adise on earth. The Orangery contains the finest collection of orange trees in the world, one of which I was informed is4oo years old. It was plant- ed by a Princess fo Navarre, who gave it to Anne, of Britanny, and ultimately became the property of Francis I. Three very large fountains throw up immense sheets of water, in the midst of which Tritons and Syrens frolic. These foun- tains are named Diana, Dragon and Neptune. t, *^ it: 178 O'^r the AthitlU. ri.c latter IS one of the grandest conreptiun. of l.ydrau ,c art, and tl.c effect of the water is inde- scnbable. The mists of fbani and columns of vap<,r dlnmined by the rays of the sun resemble ever changing and fleeting rainbows. There are numerous other fountains placed in other parts «>' the gn.und, all of which are beautiful works ot art. The Triannons, which are small buildings or palac-es, erected on a small scale by Louis XIV •w^rf r-u,s XV within the grounds, and derive heu- name from the village which once occupied tl.e s,te of the Palace, are also very magnificent res.denc-es^ It was to these palaJes the King (Lou.s XIV ) often retired wheu tired and weary ot the pomp and splendor of Court, of which he became satiated, living and conducting himself amon - his family upon the closest intimacy, and 'nrog .t.ng almost entirely his lofty position i.i I ins world It was there he enjoyed solitude and quet, and led, I may say. a purely domesticated nte. 1 he I nannons were, nevertheless, luxuri- ously furnished and profusely decorated in the highest style of art. Louis XV also spent much ot Ins time there in the .society of his numerous mistresses. The building called the Petit Trian- non was built by him, behind the Grand Trian- •non ,n order to give a residence to Madame DuBarry, one of his newly acquired favorites In the historic halls of those buildings are carnages used durir. g the reigns of Louis XVI 1 I. *-. t conccpliuns of he water is inde- and columns of lie sun lesenible ows. There are d in other parts are beautiful ill buildings or ; by Louis XIV nds, and derive li once occupied cry magnificent laces the King ired and weary irt, of which he liirting himself t intimacy, and >fty position in ed solitude and y domesticated theless, luxuri- corated in the I so spent much his numerous ^le Petit Trian- Grand Trian- e to Madame id favorites. buildings are 5f Louis XVI, t- ».\ r IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 4^

■ ^■^ a^liJ O'er the Atlantic. 179 Napoleon I and Charles X. That of the time of Napoleon is massive and magnificent. There are also sleighs and chaises of great value, and a little carriage that once belonged to the Duke of Bordeaux. There are to be seen other relics in the shape of valuable harness and saddlery, and uniforms worn at the various courts are also on exhibition. Among the carriages is the corona- tion carriage of the first Emperor, and that of Charles X, which cost, with the harness, about four hundred thousand francs or $80,000, all of which have been visited by Emperors, Kings and Princes of foreign powers, and gazed at by high, low, rich and poor, with wonder and admiration. From Versailles we went to St. Cloud, the favorite residence of the present Emperor, which is called the " Summer Palace." This truly ele- gant and picturesque residence is surrounded by a magnificent park of many broad acres, beauti- fully and tastefully laid out, with fountains, statuary in Italian marble, and shrubbery and flowers of the rarest and choicest kind. We also passed through Sevres, noted for the manufacture of the celebrated porcelain so well known among the admirers of fine arts ; and, while in the neighborhood, we had the pleasure of witnessing the ascent of a verv large balloon, the car of which contained two persons. There being no wind, it ascended almost perpendicu- larly, making but little headway through space. Having hired a carriage for the day, we pro- i8o O'er the Atlantic. ceeded at a brisk pace, and were soon once more within the walls of gay Paris, and comfortably seated in our hotel, which was very acceptable after spending a whole day visiting sights far off, a great portion of which time we were exposed to the extreme heat of the sun. Yes, such a day as we occasionally experience in America in the month of July ; " that's so." It was our intention to proceed to Strasbourg, which is siiuated on the Rhine, to see the cele- brated clock in the old Cathedral— a wonderful piece of mechanism, and of great age— but time would not permit ; so we had to rest satisfied with not proceeding any further south. W a fini our 1 bank surrc pear man< land here villaj the ( centi ence with the V andc villaj keep prog Fran »WrtB51|gi>*^* soon once more and comfortably very acceptable ing sights far off, ive were exposed Yes, such a day 1 America in the O'er the Atlantic. i8i jd to Strasbourg, , to see the cele- ral — a wonderful at age — but time to rest satisfied r south. LETTER XVIII. FRANCE, CONTINUED. We will now bid gay and fashionable Paris a final adieu, and proceed through Normandy on our return to England, and as we pass along the banks of the Seine, avc have a fine view of the surrounding country. How different it does ap- pear to the United Kingdom. The one (Nor- mandy) with its varied colored little patches of land resembling an American bed-quilt, with here and there a dingy, squalid little town or village, showing no marks of improvement since the days of the celebrated Dukes, who many centuries ago wielded so much power and influ- ence on both sides of the channel ; and the other, with its broad acres nicely fenced around with the well trimmed black thorn and other hedges, and dotted over with hundreds of little towns and villages of various colored brick, improving and keeping pace with the times, as art and science progress. Well may it be said that "Paris is France," for there is but little improvement else- l82 O'er the Atlantic. where. And yet, Johnny Crapean, seemingly con- tented with his j'rt;v/ of head and bottle of Vin Or liinaire* cannot but be aware of the vast strides made by other nations, aside from beautifying and adorning their capitals !— But ere long the eye of tlie traveler ceases todwell upon those monotonous little patches of land, for in the distance can be seen high chimnies, and as he draws nearer, the spires of churches. If rge buildings and shipping, appear in view, indicating that he is nearing a city of more than ordinary size and importance. — Along we went at a rapid pace, with sundry screeches from the iron horse as it passed through and by certain stations, which its aristocratic na- ture simply recognized with a screech and a grunt it ran furiously by, and ere long we were in the ancient city of RouKN. — This is the capital of Normandy, and and is even termed the " Manchester of France," for it abounds with cotton factories, which produce the finest manufactured fabrics of the kind in the world, and which bring much higher prices than tliose manufactured in the Manchester of Eng- land, and other places in Great Britain. Immediately after our arrival at the hotel kept by an obliging Englishman, who had linked his * Both remarkably cheap and of good qualit)-. Wine is generally used among the people as a substitute for tea and coffee. (Red wine or claret.) The loaves aae made' nar- row and long. fate wit proceec Taking English dral, w which 1 nificent Rollo, I de Lior of disti marvell sculptu and the which i having of pern With for son- not, altl the pec relic is Coeur c in 1838 formed, jealousl This vei Thee buildinj one of gothic s dows, a Cer the Athxutic, 183 emingly con- tie of Via Or ; vast strides autifying and ng the eye of : monotonous tance can be 's nearer, the ind shipping, (earing a city mportance. — with sundry Lssed through istocratic na- h and a grunt i were in the irmandy, and r of France," hich produce e kind in the r prices than ;ster of Eng- ain. le hotel kept d linked his ■alit)'. Wine is tute for tea and aae made''nar- fatc with an equally obliging F^rench woman, wc proceeded to see the sights of ancient Rouen. Taking a guide with us, who spoke very good English, we visited first the very fine old cathe- dral, with its curious iron spire, a portion of which lias yet to be elevated. In this truly mag- nificent edifice rest the remains of the famous Rollo, first duke of Normandy, Richard Coeur de Lion, and his brother Henry, and many others of distinguished and ancient celebrity. It is a marvellous building, and has very many fine sculptured monuments, which adorn the interior, and the front is adorned with two towers, one of which is named the Butter Tower, owing to its having been built with the proceeds of the sale of permissions to eat butter during Lent. Within those walls is a relic which England for some time endeavored to obtain, but could not, although the emperor sanctioned its removal, the people opposed it in all their might. This relic is that of tlie limestone figure of Richard Coeur de Lion, discovered in the cathedral choir in 1838, and, about the same time, we were in- formed, his heart was also found, and is now jealously guarded in the Museum of Antiquities. This venerable building dates back to A. D. 260. The church of St. Ouen is also a magnificent building, of great antiquity, and is said to be one of the finest buildings in the v/orld," it is of gothic architecture, and is lighted by 128 win- dows, and contains several chapels, beautifully 1 % s84 O'er the Atlantic. and tastefully fitted up. There are many otiier churches of varied interest, and much frequented by the traveler and tourist. But the greatest point of interest, /. c, the most interesting, is the Place dc la Luccllc in the square of which stands the monument of the unfortunate Joan of Arc, or Maid of Orleans, who was burned on this spot at the stake in 1431, and the old chapel, or at least a portion of it, stands near by, wherein she, in her last moments, called upon God to give her strength to go through, with fortitude and courage, the terrible ordeal without shudder- ing. Near by is also the Hotel du Bourgther- oulde, so well known to antiquarians. It was built in the fifteenth century. A stone tablet gives a brief history of the place, and enume- rates the names of the distinguished persons, who have sojourned within its walls from time to time, the first of whom was Francis I, A. D. 1540, and the last Madame, afterwards Duchessc, de Montpensier, 1640, just 100 years after Francis I first occupied it. And on the outer walls is rudely carved the meeting of Francis I and Henry VHI, of England, on the field of the cloth of gold. Those ancient buildings are located in the oldest part of the city, where the streets are so narrow that the overhanging tops and roofs of the old houses very near form an arching above your head. The Palace de Justice is an exceedingly inter- esting place. Our guide introduced us Avithin its walls, court wi counsel f in behalf ])orson o had mun had to pa We ob; ancient c as ever, i had ever ing out < ments, be one of w the publi as a proi arranginj After vis viewing old gate; old city our guid church ol rine's Hil over a dil beautiful country i city, is tl means be The c\\ and goth O'er the Athiittic, 185 many oliicr frequented he greatest sting, is tlie of whidi latc Joan of burned on old chapel, by, wherein ion God to th fortitude lut shudder- Bourgther- ns. It was itone tablet ind enume- cd persons, s from time cis I, A. D. s Duchesse, fter Francis ter walls is mcis I and of the cloth e located in ; streets are •s and roofs an arching iingly inter- \ us within its walls, walking upon tip toes, for the criminal court was in session, and one of the leading counsel for the prisoner, was addressing the jury in behalf of tiie unfortunate individual in the ])orson of a young woman, who, it was alleged, had murdered her illegitimate child; hence, we had to pass through with a noiseless step. We observed, as we went along, the far-famed ancient ceiling, carved in oak, appearing as fresh as ever, and surpassing anything of the kind I had ever seen, so elaborately carved is it. Pass- ing out of this room we entered other apart- ments, bearing unmistakable marks of old age, one of which is used by the Counsellors at Law, the public, and those interested in court matters, as a promenading and discussing room, and for arranging and settling mattcys out of Court. After visiting several other places of note, and viewing with wondering admiration the various old gates and classic buildings with which the old city abounds, we took a carriage, and with our guide drove to visit the new and handsome church of Notre Dame Le Boscre, on St. Catha- rine's Hill. From Rouen to this place, and back over a different road to that we went by is a most beautiful drive, and the view from the hill of the country round, including the river Seine and the city, is the most magnificent, and should by all means be seen by strangers visiting Rouen. The church is a splendid structure of modern and gothic architecture combined, and is deco- , .« r-' M 4 ' 1 86 O'er the Atlantic. rated in a style wlicrciii the cost must have been a secondary consideration; the whole of it being finished in elaborate gilt carved work. Indeed, it has more the appearance of an opera house than a place of worship, so profuse are the deco- rations. We will now have to leave the old cap- ital of Normandy in all its grandeur and mag- nificence, and take the cars for — Dieppe— another of the ancient towns of old Normandy, a place of no mean pretensions, for it has a population of probably twenty thousand inhabitants, and a castle and citadel commanding the entrance of the harbor. Very fine bathing is to be had in the neighborhood; and the town, during the summer months, is frequented by vis- itors from all parts of Europe and America, to accommodate whom some very fine hotels are erected on the heights overlooking its beautiful beach and placid water. The peculiar manufac- tures of tlie place are in ivory, such as little images chiefly connected with the Catholic faith, specimens of which are to be seen in the windows of the shops for sale. On our arrival here we were put to considera- ble trouble, owing to the steamer in waiting to convey us across the channel being overcrowd- ed with passengers that I deemed it advisable to remain over until the next steamer sailed on the following day, but scarcely had we partaken of supper and made preparation to retire for the night, I was informed that the agents of the line hi in a few 1 So havini paid our L hotel, and which I fo cessor, bi quickly d( in commoi Early m bowing//// caused by a "spankii enough, it was " dead- This wa voyages I badly com sengers, c Paris, all ( Neptune, a of the brii throw cons the deck, c them, to 1 coupled wi poor votar himself on the weak s( above and 1 women ar . have been of it being k. Indeed, pera house re tlie deco- he old cap- • and mag- wns of old ensions, for y thousand )mmanding ; bathing is '. the town, ited by vis- America, to hotels are ;s beautiful r manufac- h as little holic faith> le windows considera- waiting to >vercrowd- ivisable to led on the )artaken of re for the agents of O'er t/ic At/antic. 187 the line had ordered an extra steamer lu proceed in a few hours after the sailing of the other. So having secured our baggage once more and paid our bill, we took leave oi Alonsle Host, of the hotel, and were soon on board the steamer, which I found equally as crowded as its prede- cessor, but ratlier than return to the hotel I quickly determined to proceed and run all risk in common with our fellow passengers. Early morning saw us steam out of the harbor, bowing ungnxcefully to a " short and troubled sea," caused by what is termed among sea-faring men a " spanking breeze," but although not more than enough, it came from tlie wrong t/ircdion, for it was " dead-on-end." This was one of the most disagreeable sea voyages I ever experienced— the vessel small, badly constructed, and over-crowded with pas- sengers, chiefly excursionists returning from Paris, all of whom were quickly in the arms of Neptune, and paying sickly tributes to his majesty of the briny deep, who now and again would throw considerable of his briny element all over the deck, causing the lubbers, as he would term them, to look more dead than alive, which, coupled with its being quite cold, made many a poor votary to pleasure to curse his fate and wish himself once more in hold Hingland ! Among the weak stomachs which so generally prevailed above and below decks was a good sprinkling of women and children, Avhose sufferings were ^-#" i8« O'er l/u Atlantic. I intense; iiulcud, it is almost impossible for me to describe the fimoiint c)f suffering, for in the little cabin overcome by heat and sickness, laid the poi r women and children two dcc]), and their stalwart companions on deck, literally soaked with salt water, too sick and helpless to render them any assistance. Such is but a feeble de- scription of the suffering on board the little lOik/f snell of a boat, whicii, in my opinion, was constructed more for the convenience of the proprietors than their passengers. Oh, yes! find nic an English railway or steamboat company who cater for the comfort of the public, and I will find the north pole. I know no other, remedy to bring them to a realizatitjn of the truth than by the government confiscating and consigning to the flames two-thirds of their vile railway cars and steamboats. — At last, after a delay of an hour and a half waiting for tide off the harbor of New Haven, we were safely landed on the quay, and a more miserable and forlorn set of creatures seldom or ever assembled together.* As soon as our baggage was duly examined by the custom house officers, we took our seats in the cars, and, after two hours' ride, arrived, tired and weary, at the London bridge station ; and herfe ends our trip to France. *Thc writer suffered more in going to and from Dieppe than he did the whole of the long sea voyage, indeed, it was the only time he experienced any sensation of sea- sickness. London hotel, we < soon whir in a hixnso Ix)ndon. ere I com; we visite( horse vch dation of behind, pc counter bi shafts rai animal, ai Yet these and coml licensed I cabs in th Well, a were soon left, and Churchya 0\t the Atlanlic. 189 bic fur mc for ill the •knoss, laid p, and tlicir lly soaked ; to render a feeble de- I the little pinion, was nee of the h, yes ! lind ,t company iblic, and I no other, tion of the ;cating and )f their vile ast, after a for tide off ifely landed 1 forlorn set 1 together.* lined by the seats in the d, tired and ; and herfe 1 from Dieppe go, indeed, it iation of sea- LKTTER XIX. KNOI.ANJ), CON riNl'Kl). London Acain. — After resting a day in our hotel, we once more took to the street, and were soon whirling along at a fast rate, cosily seated in a fiansoiit, to sec some more of the sights of London. Hut a few words about the "hansom" ere I commence to give an account of the place we visited, which is nothing more than a one- horse vehicle upon two wheels, for the acconuiio- dation of two persons, driven by a man who sits behind, perched up as though he were there to counter balance the weight of the horse, for the shafts raise to the level with the back of the animal, and have a very awkward appearance. Yet these vehicles are easy of ingress and egress, and combine comfort with speed, for they are licensed to travel faster than any other of the cabs in the metropolis. Well, after turning a great many corners wc were soon driving along Cheapside, then to the left, and away we went through St. Paul's Churchyard, the great Cathedral occupying 190 O'er the Atlantic. almost tlie whole of the square, causing the shops (stores) to look dingy and gloomy without and within. Then onward, down Ludgate Hill, through Temple Bar, which was having its dingy old face washed by tiie City Fathers, along the Strand, past Somerset Ho'ise, the Charing Cross Hotel, and we were in Trafalgar Square. Away we went down Parliament street, past the Admir- alty and Horse Guards, and in a few minutes more we were in sight of the great Houses of Parliament.— Those buildings are said to be unsurpassed by any other of the kind in the known world*. The. exterior is adorned with a multitude of towers of various sizes, vary- ing from the great clock tower down, and the elaborate workmanship of the whole baffles any description I can give. The Houses of Lords and Commons are elegant rooms in every re- spect, and the whole of the Chambers arc fur- nished in massive grand style. — Near by is Westminister Abbey, a magnificent old building, which has stood the test of centuries, and the interior of which is embellished with the finest sculptured tombs of kings, queens, princes and others that art could perfect. — Passing from here we found ourselves again in front of the Horse *It is a pity that so magnificent a structure should ever have been erected on the low bank of a sluggish, mudd)' river, (the Thames.) They are wrorthy a far more elevated position, which would add much to their grandeur and beauty. G uan black hemic resemi being. all p less t genen when wende the si immei wide t I have dela( Somei Garde great ( regret but aj ment, Tussai entert: that it gorge( crown are m( cental that a three < he us U O'er the Atlantic. 191 *e, causing the aflooniy without n Ludgate Hill, laving its dingy thcrs, along the Charing Cross Square. Away past the Adniir- a few minutes It e buildings are ;her of the kind erior is adorned ions sizes, vary- down, and the hole baffles any ouses of Lords US in every re- imbers arc fur- . — Near by is nt old building, ituries, and the with the finest ns, princes and ssing from here It of the Horse cturc should ever a sluggish, mudd)' far more elevated leir grandeur and Guards, admiring the sentry, who sat on his coal black steed with a coat like velvet, draped in hemlet and cuirass, as immovable as a statue, resembling more a figure in wax than a live being. The soldiers of the Horse Guards are all picked men, measuring none of them less than six feet out of their boots, and are generally -n attendance upon the Queen's person when apppearing in jniblic— From here we wended our way to Trafalgar Square, and viewed the sight of Nelson's pillar or monument, with immense crouching lions on each angle of its wide base. I consider this place the finest square I have ever seen, not even excepting the Place de la Concorde, in Paris. We afterwards visited Somerset House, the National Gallery, Zoological Gardens, and other places in and around the great city, all of which were " big sights," and I regret that time won't permit me giving them but a passing remark. As to places of amuse- ment, or rather entertainment, I found Madame Tussaud's exhibition of wax figures the most entertaining, and very interesting also. It is all that it is represented to be. The life like figures, gorgeously attired, especially those of the crowned heads of Europe and foreign princes, are most magnificent. And the Napoleon rooms contain relics associated with the first empire that are highly interesting, which even include three of his carriages, one of which is that which he used and escaped from during that ever •-'-V- 192 O'er the Atlantic. memorable battle which proved so disastrous to him, and sent him to die in exile — that of Water- loo. To me this was very interesting indeed. I opened the door, got in, and sat on the same cushion which the ^rcat little man hail so often occupied wlien going forth to battle, causing monarchs to tremble at what would be the result. It is very strongly built, lined with dark blue cloth, fitted within with drawers, a writing desk, lamp, map, racks, &c., and under tiie coachman's seat is an iron bedstead, and various other things connected with camp life, all of which were found, as well as some very valuable jewelry, diamonds and clothing by the Prussians on the spot from where he effected his miraculous escape. Madame Tussaud has nojv been dead several years, but the business is still carried on by the sons in the old firm name, and near to the entrance in the main saloon stands a very faith- ful representation of the old lady in wax, exe- cuted by herself when living, and so near to life is the figure, snuff box in hand, and slightly moving her head occasionally, as does also that of old Cobbett, sitting near by, that but few take them for what they are, a mere representation of what was once mortal. On either side of the entrance doors stands neatly attired life-like figures of Washington and Ben Franklin, the former dressed in plain black velvet with but few ornaments, and the latter in the very plain homespun unassuminj amid the sp and at the of the late and Gener which did ] proportion, wliat they s there were cuted. Lei be rcmediec at them wit and admira The Wki room, but r tains the lif in state ur Marshal's \ hung in gla badges, &c. abroad, and of the Duke are also ver the history ( room, all o) the admirer during the 1 of Britain proved so fa and followei H '-'-^ isastrous to t of Watei- ; indeed. I n the same lad so often le, causing ; the result, dark blue riting desk, coachman's ther things k'hich were tie jewelry, ians on the miraculous ead several d on by tlie ear to the very faith- i wax, exe- near to life id slightly ilso that of t few take entation of ide of the d life-like mklin, the b with but very plain O'er t/ic Atlantic. »93 homespun brown cloth of the period, in which unassuming garb lie figured so conspicuously amid the splendor and pomp of European Courts; and at the upper end of this saloon are figures i)f the late President Lincoln, President Johnson, and Generals Grant and McClellan, neither of which did I consider good, for they were out of proportion, and lacked much to make them what they should or ought to be. In my opinion there were none in the building so badly exe- cuted. Let us hope that the defects will ere long lie remedied, so that American visitors can look at them with pleasure and with a feeling of pride and admiration. The Wki.lington Roo.\f, like tlie Napoleon room, but recently added to the collection, con- tains the life-like figure of the Iron Duke, lying in state under the canopy, draped in a Field Marshal's uniform, and around the room are hung in glass cases, exact copies of tlie various badges, &c., bestowed upon him at home and abroad, and also many relics once the property of the Duke when sojourning upon earth. There are also very many other articles connected with the history of the great m^n, in and around the room, all of which must be very interesting to the admirers of the man who figured so much during the hostile meetings between tlie troops of Britain and those of France, and whicli proved so fatal to the first Emperor, his family and followers. H 194 O'er the Atlantic. In conclusion, before I take my leave of this truly beautiful and magnificent place of enter- tainment, I wisii to remark that it appears far more beautiful at nigiit, wlien the effect is most brilliant, tiic gayly dressed figures with orders and jewelry, dazzling the eye, and appearing grand in the extreme. Before leaving Lond(jn we visited the Taber- nacle, at the Elephant and Castle, and had the pleasure of hearing the world-renowned Spur- geon address a congregation of not less than S,ooo persons— indeed, I was informed that there were 7,000 present. Spurgeon is decidedly a great man — a plain matter-of-foct mai^ is he, whose soul-stirring eloquence is astonishing, and who preaches so that his congregation can understand the mean- ing of the text thoroughly ; hence, why he has so many admirers. His style of oratory is such that no person can for one moment cease to listen to his plain unassuming address, for he rivets the attention of the most sluggish. Upon this occasion, after reading portions of the Scriptures, which he expounded as he read them, he drew his text from Job 14, 14th verse: "All the days of my appointed time will I wait, till my change come." This subject he handled in a masterly style for one hour, and in a clear, audible voice, apparently without any stress, and certainly without being at a loss for a word during the whole time, but with much eloquence expounded tl b> h hi tl at w ai cc Sj d< be L( pa or sii sir so eff ga of Sp am no ba( wh nol I I tic. 3 my leave of this :nt place of enter- that it appears far 1 the effect is most gures with orders e, and appearing visited the Tabcr- xstle, and had the d-renowned Spur- 1 of not less than nformed that there reat man — a plain hose soul-stirring who preaches so lerstand the mean- lence, wliy he has of oratory is such lent cease to listen Iress, for he rivets Bfgish. Upon this > of the Scriptures, ;ad them, he drew e : " All the days ait, till my change lied in a masterly ear, audible voice, ss, and certainly word during the juence expounded O'er the Atlantic, 1 95 the position of Job driven to desperation by bodily pains and the exasperating remarits fif his wife, a sore trial iipon his patience, causing him to cry, " Oh, tiiat Thou wouldst hide me in the grave." Mr. Spurgeon then called tiic attention of liis hearers to tlie aspect of life which Job gives us, his estimates of our woric, and to his view of the future, ending his dis- course on the blessedness of sudden death. Said he, " Tliere is much to be envied in sudden death. I never could understand why it should be put in the Litany « From sudden death, good Lord deliver us!' So long as we can die pre- pared, let the change come suddenly," &c., &c. In this immense house of worship there is no organ, nor any other musical instrument. The singing is purely congregational— and oJi ! such singing ! Imagine s,ooo voices mingling in one song to the worship of Almighty God! The effect is grand— nay, sublime. And while he gave out the hymn, verse after verse, the falling of a three cent coin to the floor might be heard. Apart from his ability as a preacher, Mr. Spurgeon, I was informed, is doing an immense amount of good in various ways. " And there is not," said my informant, as we rode in a stage back to London bridge, " a man in all London who works harder than Spurgeon. He has nobly earned the proud position he now holds, 196 o'er the Atlantic. and is deserving of all the aid and support we can give him." A great man truly is Spurgeon. I must now leave my readers for the present, and ask them to meet me in my next in the city of Manchester. Adieu. \i Hav seeing forego would to my of Auj our d( the L( laid roi the rat first p from " Mug! one hou, only suffirie snatch immedi your se ing an support we Spurgeon. the present, next in the O'er the Atlantic. 197 LETTER XX. ENGLAND, CONTINUED. Having devoted all the time we could spare to seeing London and its neighborhood, I had to forego the pleasure of visiting many ])laccs that would have been interesting to me and probably to my readers. So on the morning of the 27th of August we left the great metropolis, taking our departure from Euston Square Station, by the London & Northwestern Railway, the best laid road in all England, over which we traveled at the rate of upwards of sixty miles an hour. The first place we stopped at was Rugby, 84 miles from London, (celebrated now as Dickens' " Mugby Junction,'^) which distance was run in one hour and ttventy minutes ! There we stopped only three minutes, affording me scarcely suffirient time to reach the refreshment rooms to snatch a sandwich and pay for it, for almost immediately was heard the guard's voice, " Take your seats, if you please," followed by the bang- ing and locking of carriage doors, and the I I! 11,1 t98 O'er the Atlantit. appearance of the ticket inspector, with " Show your tickets, please," and a polite " thank you," then one, two, tliree, four, <'ounting the number of passengers in each compartment, with tlic remark, " All right," time was called, and the slirill starting wliistle of the guard was heard as the signal for the immense train to proceed on its journey. Away we went past towns and vil- lages, through various stations, at a fearful rate, away past Staflord, celebrated for its potteries, and ere long we were in tlie elegant station at ("rewe, where we had to change carriages, tiie through " Lightning Express" going on direct to Liverpool. — And now, before taking our seats in tlie other train, 1 will avail myself of the oppor- tunity to explain h(jw the Lightning Express and .Mail Trains on the L. & N. W. Road take in water for the locomotive, and how the mail bags are delivered and received, without stopping or even slacking speed. As regards supplying water: At various pl.^ces on the road are laid in the centre of the track some two or three miles of iron gutters, through which a continual stream of water tlows. Jhose gutters are about four- teen inches wide and eight inches deep, and as the tander attached to the engine passes over them, a suction pipe connects with the water, which, caused by the speed, fills the tank to over- flowing ere the engine passes over the length of the gutter. Thus there is no delay in stopping to take in water. And then as to the mail bags : On the oi attached tact with tlie statio causes a 5 mail is sa hands of riage. T ner, altho in railroa the simpl was only in genen great jur our way, traveled a in what train, whi view of houses on of hewn s tastefully ful trimr fences foi together the deep of hay ji whole CO *Much of hardened, at ing it imper h " Show ink you," ; number with the , and the ; lie.ird ;is roceed on s and vil- irful rate, potteries, station at iajj:es, tiie 1 direct to ir scats in he opj)or- Express id take in mail bafi^s )pping or iiipplying ire laid in irce miles lal stream )out four- ;p, and as isses over he water, k to over- length of I stopping nail bags : O'er the Athnlic. X99 On the outside of the mail carrii»gc i . a netting attached to an iron frame, which comes in con- tact with the mail bags hung on a post, fixed on the stJition platform, which, by the force of speed, causes a spring to give way, and Her Majesty's mail is safely within the netting, and soon in the hands of the guard in charge of the mail car- riage. The mails are delivered in a similar man- ner, although this to me was quite a new feature in railroad traveling. I was not astonished when the simplicity of both were explained to me, and was only surprised that both inventions were not in general use. Leaving Crewe, one of the great junctions of England, we proceeded (m our way, but not at so fast a speed as that we traveled at from London, for we were then riding in what the Englishman terms a Parliamentary train, whicli enabled us to have a more distinct view of the country and the various station liouses on the road, which are .substantially built of hewn stone and fine brick,* surrounded with tastefully laid out flower gardens, and the beauti- ful trimmed thorn hedges which serve as fences for hundreds of miles along the lines, together with the neatly sodded slopes in the deep cuts, on which thousands of tons of hay are mowed every season, gives the whole country a most beautiful and charming *Much of the brick used for building in England are well hardened, and are finished on one side with a gloss, render- ing it impervious to wet. 21 PO O'gf the Atlantic. appcaraiuc. \Vc were soon in Stockporl, and travcrsiniif tlic line of railway elevated above houses and factories eight and nine stories high. t)n we went, turning a curve to the left at a steady speed, when scores of very high chimneys appeared in tlic distance, from which long lines of bhck smoke streamed forth, and mingled with the clouds in the heavens, and in a little while we were made aware of being in the great city of dry floods. Manchester. — This great cotton metropolis of the world, enveloped in smoke, is situated on the banks of the river Irwell, in the county of Lancaster. We stayed but a few days, during which time the " Liverpool & Manchester Agricultural Society" held their annual fair in the neighborhood, which, of course, we visited, and I was very much pleased with the exhibition. This fair is frequented by, and open for competition to the counties of York and Chester. Consequently the collection was very fine, comprising horses, cattle, sheep, hogs, dogs, poultry, farm produce, machinery, (principally connected with farming), wagons, carts, carriages, and a host of articles too numerous to mention, among which were some of American manufac- ture, such as washing machines, wringers, &c. The exhibition of horses was yery fine, for there was the graceful thorough-bred Hunter, the Galloway, the Pony, and lastly the noble and majestic Draught Horse, so well known in England, \ he moves Manche was simpl uncf, whci Knighted Sal ford (t into Man became a improvem several v streets an the Court splendid iences, vc any other Atheneum street, are latter is •, seeing. 1 street, anc of erectio other buil any in all form a sqi occupied approachc very wide for a Coui The princ: with goo H* '' .«l*t*iHi O'er the Atlanti(. 301 vjxtrl, and ted above orics higli. e left at a chimneys lonpf lines i mingled in a little 1 the great metropolis s sit uated the county few days, Manchester inual fair ourse, we i with the , and open York and I was very logs, dogs, jrincipally , carriages, mention, 1 manufac- iHgers, &c. ;, for there unter, the noble and known in liugland, wlujsc tread makes llic carili irciiiljlu as lie moves leisurely aloiii;. Manchester, until vitliiii a 'i^^w yc^uv^ ago, was simply a town, but of coiisidorablc import- ance, when Her Majesty, the Ouccn, visited it, uud Knighted the Mayor, now Sir John Potter. When Salford (the sec of the Hishop) was incorporated into Manchester, and the great cotton town became a city, since which time the march of improvement has been very great ; and now several very fine public buildings adorn its streets and scpiares, among wiiich I may name the Court House (Town Hall), erected in 1866, a splendid biuldiiig, iinccpialled for its conven- iences, ventilation, and style of architecture by any other iMiilding of the kind in England. The Atheneum and Royal Institution, on Mosley street, are also very splendid buildings. In the latter is an exhibition of paintings well worth seeing. And the Royal Exchange, on Market street, and St. Ann's Square, now in the course of erection, will be, it is said, far superior to any other building in the place, and not inferior to any in all England. It is constructed so as to form a square around it. The first Hoor is to be occupied as shops (stores), and the upper floor approached from the north and south side by very wide flights of hewn stone steps, is intended for a Court Room, Offices, Exchange Room, &c. The principal shops will front on Market street, with good roomy basements to underlet for H* 1% JOi O'tr the Athntic. various business purposes, and Free Trade Hall, where such men as Cohdcn, Gibson, Hright, Osborne, and others of the great champions of the corn law and free trade have frequently held forth, advocating in more than eloquent language the rights of the working man, is a building of no mean pretensions. Manchester is also not without its monuments. Very fine statues of the Duke of Wellington and Sir Robert Peel occupy prominent positions in front oi the Infirmary, and one of Dr. Dalton, and of James Watt, the celebrated engineer, occupying each a pedestal, forming the entrance to the Institution, and there is a very fine statue of thfc late Prince Consort, in Italian mairblc, under a cant)py on Albert Square. The city is also blessed with some very fine public parks, of which it has three, viz. : Peel's Park, comprising forty acres, in which there is a very extensive Museum of Antiquities and F"ine Arts, and an extensive Library, both of which arc always open to the public gratis, and within the grounds are five statues, viz. : of the Queen, Prince Albert, Sir R. Peel, Richard Cobden and Mr. Brotherton, late M. P. for Salford. The otiier Parks are called the Queen's Purk, and Phillip's Park, both of which are extensive, but have nothing to recommend them to the eye of the stranger, aside from their shady groves and quiet retreats, which are so very much courted (ill i ■MimpjkJi^i i wi4^#isi^^ ai3r?TtY< ^ 0\r the AtlitiitU. »03 Frade Hall, in, Hright, ampions of ([^ iiently held It language building f»f nonuments. lington and )ositions in ^r. Dalton, 1 engineer, 10 entrance fine statue an mairble, L' very fine k'iz. : Peel's 1 there is a s and Fine 'i of which and within the Queen, obden and ford. The Piirk, and ;ensive, but the eye of E^roves and ch courted «)n the Sabbath and lidlidays by the sons f»f toil I resident in and around the < itv. Among tiic hotels, of which there arc several very fine ones, one deserves special mention. I allude to the " Trevalyaii," conducted on tlur Temperance plan, and is decidedly one the finest, as also one of the most convenient and elegant furnished house in the United Kingdom. It is admirably conducted, and is preciselv what it is represented to be, " a first-class house," combining elegance, and ccmifort at mo'ici ate charges. The " Waterloo" is the only house vhicli caters to the taste of Americans generally, and is provided with an elegant room for their reception, adorned with American engravings of various subjects, but is rather salty in its charges. Before leaving we were afforded an o]iportu- nity of visiting the new Cotton Factory of the Messrs. Tocjtal, Broadhurst. l-ce & Co., which is one of the finest, most modern and complete in the pl.acc. On entering the first lloor we could not hear ourselves speak with the noise of the machinery at work, and the humming din of scores of looms, busy at work under the niiuiage- ment principally of females, weiving various patterns and qualities of cotton, worsted, and silk fabrics combined. Wo were politely shewn through this extensive establishment, from bot- tom to top, which gave us some idea of the vari- ous stages through which the raAv ni.iterial had '1 1 I iiii i 204 O'er the Atlantic. a fit state to pass into the to •2;o ere it was in weaver's room.* It is astonishing to see the great number of foreigners from almost every clime, who traverse the streets of busy Manchester ; among whom arc the , Ttirk, Arab, Greek, and the Mahomedan from the far off Indies, dressed in the peculiar costume 1 if thei r country. As also the Frenchman, Spaniard, Germanand. American, attired a la anglaise, all buy- ers, or rather resident agents, for the purchase of goods for the various houses they represent in their far-distant homes. And now let us leave busy and smoky Manchester, and in my next I shall give an account of our trip to the far-famed Windermere lakes, and thence on by way of Carlisle into bonnie Scotland. ■ *The proprietors of the Manchester Cotton Mills are very jealous of strangers visiting their factories, but wc gained admission without any trouble through the influence of a friend, who said we were simply desirous of satisfying our curiosity by seeing the looms at work. 1 3 pass into t!ic ;rcat number of ne, who traverse niong whom arc Wahomedan from jeculiar costume ic/imatiy Spaniard, anglaise, all buy- the purchase of ley represent in ow let us leave d in my next I to the far-famed r way of Carlisle r Cotton Mills are r factories, but we irough the influence isirous of satisfying rk. 1 O'er the Atlantic. 20.; LETTER XXI. ENGLAND, CONTINUED. On the road once more, propelled by the iron horse at the usual speed, we soon left Manchester far behind, passing through Bolton and Preston, with their numerous cotton factories, coal and iron works. On through Lancaster, and in a few hours the train arrived in Oxenholme Junction, where I had the extreme pleasure of meeting an old friend from Pittston, then on a visit to his aged father residing at Sedburgh, after an absence in America of 30 years (more or less). To meet so many thousand miles from our home was very pleasant, and right glad were we to see each other, but the pleasure was somewhat marred by him announcing the death of an old friend of ours at Wilkesbarre, Pa. Although unwell, he put himself to some trouble and expense in coming several miles to meet us, for I had been in correspondence with him prior to leaving London. But unfortunately we had but little time to spend in each other's company, for as soon as the bag- gage could be transferred from one train to the 206 O'er the Atlantie. other, tlien in waiting, we liad to bid each other a hasty adieu,* take our scats again, and proceed on our journey-by Kendall, and in a short time we arrived at WiNDERMKRF..— On our arrival here, situated in the Lmmediate neighborhood of the liir-famed Windermere Lakes, we soon were cosily seated in the coffee-room of a very comfortable hotel, named after the place, where from the windows could be obtained an excellent view of the lakes in the distance. After a stay of a couple of days at this very fashionable place of resort, boating on the lake, &c., a portion of which time the rain fell in tor- rents, we concluded to leave and proceed on our journey north, being perfectly satisfied that there are lakes and scenery elsewhere as fine, if not superior, in many respects, to that Windermere can boast of, and to view which none of us need leave the American shores. For what a great contrast there is between the lakes and rivers of Britain and those of America ! The former are but ponds and ditches when compared to the vast lakes and rivers of the latter ; and as to scenery, truthfully, I have seen none, as yet, to equal our own beautiful Valley of the Wyoming^ •This was the only personal acquaintance from his home that the writer had the pleasure of meeting during his tour, although there were several in various parts of Europe at the time, and he, notwithstanding feeling very unwell at the time, traveled several miles under un/avotabU circumstances to obtain an interview. May his shadow never grow less. i } and that o other plac are not se visited, bu an admir and /retty variety of ful roads, 1 be gratifie We cor Windermt train once started, m; while thei an excelle ruin, stanc the railwa cultivated nificent st erected at my accoui On oui pleased t( from New Mrs. Stev( Penrith, b tion, for t to the trai a stentori " Take yo refreshmei O'er the Atlantic. 207 ich other ft proceed on ft time we situated in far-famed sily seated ible hotel, ! windows ' the lakes this very a the lake, ell in tor- ed on our that there le, if not indermere )f us need It a great I rivers of ormer are ed to the ind as to as yet, to Wyoming^ >m his home ing his tour^ >f Europe at inwell at the ircumstances row less. ) and that of the Hudson River, Starucca Valley, and other places, during autumn especially. Such are not seen in any other country that I have visited, but if the American is an antiquarian (»r an admirer of green fields, well-trimmed hedges, and pretty gardens, adorned with almost every variety of flowers, tastefully laid out, and beauti- ful roads, let him visit Britain, and his tastes will be gratified to the fullest extent. We continued our journey northward from Windermere, re-passing Kendall, and taking the train once more from Oxenholme Junction, we started, making the first stoppage at Penrith, and while there obtained from our carriage window an excellent view of the old castle, now a perfect ruin, standing in the immediate neighborhood of the railway station. On we went through a well- cultivated country, until we arrived in the mag- nificent station of Carlysle, something like that erected at Chester, and of. which I spoke in my account of North Wales. On our arrival here we were very much pleased to meet a lady companion du voyage from New York to Ireland, in the person of a Mrs. Stevens, who was staying witii a relation at Penrith, but our conversation was of short dura- tion, for the baggage being quickly transferred to the train on the Waverly route (N. B. R. R.), a stentorian voice proclaimed the customary, " Take your seats, please," when suddenly the refreshment rooms were emptied of hungry 208 O'er the Atlantic. travelers, with their lunch in hand, quickly followed by the banging of doors, and the " Show your tickets, please," then the guard's usual shrill whistle for the immense train of carriages to move on to cross " the border." Puff— puff— puff — ending in one continual puffing — and ere we had finished partaking of our luncheon, pur- chased 1 'irriedly at Carlysle, we were fairly in the " lane o' cakes" Scot LA a). — Rapidly traversing the banks of the nobl ; Esk, which, I informed myself, abounded with very fine trout. On we went through Castleton, with its "hermitage water," St. Boswell, which put me in mind of New- burgh Abbey, still on through Newstead, and in a little while we were in Melrose, where we saw the royal standard still floating over the hotel which, but a few days prior to our arrival. Her Majesty, the Queen, liad honored with her presence on her visit to Melrose Abbey, when en route to her highland home at Balmoral. We saw the splendid old abbey wherein rests the once lion heart of "the Bruce." Grand old ruin ! Honored thou art in having such a relin resting within thy ivy-clad walls ! Let it continue to shelter under thy wings, even when ages shall have made thy crumbling walls a mass of rub- bish, never to be forgotten untiltime ceases to be no more. Melrose Abbey is a similar ruin to that of " Tintern Abbey," of which I gave an account € > when in So rated. It m restored in stroyed the building is years in coi cian Monks the Last Mi the followin " The moc Through By fol Thou \v Twixi p In ma Then fn And cha "On man foliage are and several are yet as ei and the mi must have the dust of forefathers ( itants of th day, mingle ruin." Leaving ] of the "lo eloquent pc ous by the 1^-^ O'er the Atlantic. 209 , quickly lie " Show siial shrill riages to puff— puff id ere we L'on, pur- : fairly in banks of myself, we went e water," of New- tead, and ie, where over the r arrival, with her )ey, when rai. rein rests rand old :h a relic continue iges shall s of rub- ises to be I that of account % i when in South Wales, but more profusely deco- rated. It was founded in 1156 by David I, and restored in 1326 by the Bruce. Edward .II de- stroyed the original building, and the present building is that restored, which occupied 200 years in completion. It belonged to the Cister- cian Monks. Sir Walter Scott, in his " Lay of the Last Minstrel," alludes to the east window in the following lines : " The moon on the east ariel slione Through slender shafts of shapely stone, By foliaged tracery combined ; Thou wouldst thought some fairy's hand Twixi poplars straight the osier wand In many a'freakish knot had twined, Tiien framed a spell when the work was done, And changed the willow wreaths to stone." " On many parts of the ruins fruits, flowers and foliage are carved with the most artistic skill, and several of the pillars which support the roof are yet as entire as when William of Deloraine and the monk visited the wizard's grave." It must have been unrivalled in its day, " and now the dust of the departed monks and the rude forefathers of the hamlet, with that of the inhab- itants of the village of Melrose of the present day, mingle together in the graveyard of the old ruin." Leaving Melrose, we steamed along the banks of the " lovely Tweed, soil hallowed by the eloquent poetry of Burns, and rendered glori- ous by the wonderful genius of Scott, a land t. ito O'er the Atlantic in!:i where prose and fiction, fact and sentiment, arc so indissolubly linked together that it becomes almost an impossibility to separate one from the other."— On we went, leaving Abbottsford, the once princely residence of Sir Walter Scott, to our left, sorry we could not spare the time to visit it, and as we went further along we obtained excellent views of Bortljwick and Creichton Cas- tles, the former a fine old baronial tower of the 14th century. 'Twas there Mary, Queen of Scots, passed, I may say, with Bothwell, her hitter honeymoon, till hunted down by her nobles when she Hed their vengeance dressed in male attire, but to no purpose, for she was afterwards taken prisoner, and taken back to Edinboro. where she was insulted in the streets, and after- wards removed to and confined in Lochleven Castle, whercfrom she effected lier escape and fled into England, and threw herself upon the protection of Elizabeth, then Queen of England, who protected her by causing the headsman lo deprive her of her head. Creichton Castle was founded by Sir William Creichton, Chancellor of Scotland, who was the guardian of James II. The ill-fated Mary gave various grand entertain- ments there, and magnificent as it was once, it is now a desolate, forlorn looking old ruin. We passed through Gallashiels, and occasionally passed large factories wherein the celebrated Scotch tweed is manufactured, and steaming along at a fast rate, passed Stow, Fountain Mall, Heriot, Dalahousie, 1 wards came ii ing in Edinbi in the luxuri Hotel," condi Chester, on thi were prompt cared for, by hostess. After supp( street, where memory of S structure I I walked leisut dows, where! very beautifn justly celebra I must now my next will our visit to tl Scotland. A iment, arc t becomes ; from the :sford, the r Scott, to e time to 3 obtained ;hton Cas- ter of the 1 of Scots^ her bitter ;r nobles t in male fterwards Edinboro. ind after- .ochleven cape and upon the England, isman to astle was liancellor fames II. :ntertain- mce, it is lin. We asionally jlebrated steaming fountain O'er the Atlanttc. all Mall, Heriot, Falahill, Tynehead, Gorebridge, Dalahousie, Eskbank, Dalkeith, and soon after- wards came in sight of the Firth of Forth, arriv- ing in Edinburgh at 6 p. m., and were soon seated in the luxurious -coffee-room of the " Cockburn Hotel," conducted 'like the "Trcvelyan" at Man- chester, on the temperance plan, where our.wants were promptly supplied, and our comfort duly cared for, by the very accommodating host and hostess. After supper we strolled up and down Princess street, where is erected the elegant monument in memory of Sir Walter Scott, the most beautiful structure I have ever seen ; and viewed as we walked leisurely along the numerous shop-win- dows, wherein was exhibited in profusion the very beautiful jewelry which Edinburgh is so justly celebrated for its manufacture. I must now bring this letter to a close, and in my next will give my readers a continuation of our visit to this very beautiful city, and capital of Scotland. Au ra'oir ' ) !•' *(' 313 O'er the Atlantic. LETTER XXII. SCOTLAND, CONTINUKI). Edinburgh — \Vp fr^nr.^ ;» i-«^i.n. tye lound it very pleasant to iinger i„ and around thir;e;;Ct£r:^\,;: most de„^Htful of .//the cities we visited! ail'dt; va> ot giving my readers an idea of what is to beseent,.ere.Iwillco.nn.encewithitsAi;;;^^^ Edinburgh Castle is situated on a high rock oi "^e c!ty, and was the scene of many a fierce and r"^^^y j'''^^'^ deadly struggle between the English troops and F °'''^' ^^'« ^''^ lose of the 7>;r/.,./.., as also, of some of the (^«-«« I^' ^ nals of the ill-fated Mary. We were shown her ' 'ttle apartment, when a prisoner there (6 y. a n.) and looked down with\a shudderThe steep l"tL'r^^\ ^'l^ ?"^--' ^-- whic^^lh^ hamber, in w I iz., that of th md an old a rown and le )iick. The rei )cr is much la ler captivity, ! occasion to vi ward career, proceeded to Kings and Qu II strong iron \ iroof vault, ei he " Old Pala Icrimson covei he Crown of ;o it by Jame: )y Pope Julii made for Jan :ostly jewels collar of the < Queen Elizabi badg« of the 1 and secretly < rocks beneath the window, from which she /'-»"** ^^^'^^"^y ' lowered in a basket her babe, James VI, to be iDenmark, anc conveyed by her adherents to Stirling Castle ^^^^^^^ ^- TJ where it was baptised in hpr fi,,.^.;.. r„:fK ^ ' . . . •' — """vii,nia lu otiriine: Uastle where It was baptised in her favorite faith.-Two portraits only adorn the walls of this little prison • James VI was prisoner. -"iiip i O'er the Atlantic. »I3 pleasant to 'ul city, the ted, and by what is to its Ancient high rock, dern parts I fierce and roops and ne of the shown her !re, (6x4 the steep 'hich she VI, to be ig Castle, th.— Two tie prison hamber, in which James \'I first saw tlie liglit,* liz., that of the Queen and her consort Darnley, ind an old arm chair of the period, with the •rown and letters M. R. rudely carved on the ack. The reception room adjoining tiie ciiain- )er is much larger. It was in this room, during ler captivity, she gave audience to those who had )ccasion to visit her in her solitude and down- ward career. Leaving this part of the castle, we proceeded to view the F-galia of Scotland's Kings and Queens, now kept and guarded witiiin strong iron railing or cage, placed in a bomb- roof vault, erected within that part known as •the "Old Palace." The whole are placed on a crimson covered stand or table, and consist of he Crown of Bruce's time, with additions made o it by James V, the sword of st.ite presented y Pope Julius II, to James IV, and a sceptre |made for James V. There are also rare and ostly jewels bequeathed by the late Cardinal York, who M-as the last of the Stewart race, to George IV, whicli consist of the St. George collar of the Order of the Garter, presented bv Queen Elizabeth of England, to James VI, the badg« of the Thistle, ornamented with diamonds, iand secretly containing a portrait of Anne of penmark, and lastly the coronation ring of Charles I. This costly finger ornament is set * James VI was born there while his royal mother was a prisoner. li it .11 ')•: , i; I'M ai4 OW the Athintic. with bca'.tiful rubies, and the ornament, St. George and the Dragon, attached to the collar of the Order of the Garter, is on one side thickly set with diamonds of the purest water. The whole have a most brilliant appearance and are in a good state of preservation, notwithstanding the many long years they were locked up from mortal view. Apropos of this circumstance, a liiw lines may not be uninteresting to some of my readers, whereby they may be made better acquainted with the past history of "Scotland's Kegalia," than I was, prior to my visiting the country ; but before doing so, I wish to allude to the royal robes, which, it is said, " were of purple velvet, lined with ermine, with a kirtle of the same materials and trimming, combining grace with elegance, which, with the crown, was worn by the King upon solemn occasions, but the lat- ter on other occasions was placed before -Mm on a cushion, and when laws were passed n the Scottish Parliament it was presented by the Chancellor to the King, who ratified them by V touching it with the sceptre, in token of royal assent. This ceremony, after the accession of James to the English crown, was performed by a Lord High Commissioner, invested for that purpose with the delegated state of a viceroy." " During the troubles of Queen Marj^'s time V there was scandalous dilapidation made upon the crown jewels and other treasure in Scoth;nd belonging to the sovereign. The Regalia, how- , ever, escaped at this time Castle, when Bishop of < appears fron- the Bishop ( and sceptre, head, with circiimstanct A Her the whi':h follo' dxnj^tr to emblems, thr measures foi from a foreij detail the ci of the Kega! to say that England the from one pla the most ted On March from public chest, whici secured by t of the castle windows we and the entri oak and thi great strengi room were a 8. ^. O'er the Atlantic. 2'S lament, St. he collar of lide thickly ater. The ice and are ithstandlng :d up from m stance, a to some of lade better ' Scotland's isiting the allude to ! of purple rtle of the ling grace I , was worn )ut the lat- ivv. "'m on >ed n the id by the 1 them by \ 1 of royal session of formed bv I for that viceroy." ir)''s time ide upon Scotland alia, how- over, escaped the general plunder. They appear at this time to have been preserved in Sterling Castle, where James VI was crowned by Adam, Bishop of Orkney, July 29th, 1567, when,, as appears from the records of the Privy Council, the Bishop delivered into his hands the sword and sceptre, and put the crown royal upon his head, with all due reverence, ceremonies and circumstances used and accustomed." AHer the coronation of Charles II the events whi'^h followed were fraught with so much dxnfjtr to the existence of royalty and its emblems, that it became necessary to take prompt measures for the preservation of the Regalia from a foreign enemy ; but as I cannot give in detail the circumstances attending the removal of the Kegalia from place to place, it must suffice to say that from 16^ i until the union with England the Regalia were removed frequently from one place to anotiier, and sometimes under the most tedious and difficult circumstances. On March 26th, 1707, they were again secluded from public view by being deposited in the great chest, which was their usual receptacle, and secured by three strong locks, in the crown room of the castle of Edinburgh. The chimneys and windows were well secured by massive iron bars, and the entrance protected by two doors, one of oak and the other of iron bars, with locks of great strength ; the keys of the chest and of the room were afterwards deposited somewhere, but 2l6 O'n- the AllantU. never muvcml.* l).,„l)ts seen, t„ |,ave been entertained hy the Scn.li people shortly after this of the actuni whereabouts of the Rej^^iiia and the Jarnbite party availed themselves of the- nrc-mnstances to circlate a report that the hnghsh government had secretiv (auscd these royal en.blems l.. be transported to London, and a eroun bein.ir exhibited in the Tower of London as that of .Sc(,tland\s kings led to connrm the leport so industriously .ircuiated. Thus n.attcrv stood for upwards of a centurv, the people still in doubt of the existence of Scotland's roval emblems, when in .8,7. the "Prince Resent, considering that all pt.litical reasons for with- drawing n-om the people of Scotland the sight of the ancient symbols of her independence had long ceased to exist, was pleased to give direc tions for removing the mystery, which had s„ long hung upon the existence of the Scottish Regalia." A warrant was accordingly issued and handed to the officers of State in Scotland, directing them to open the crown room and chest and report the state in which the Regalia should be found. The crown room was accordingly entered, and the hd of the great chest was forced open, when to the great joy c.f all present, lying at the bot- * Secluding the crown jewels from public view, was done .0 cause the loyal and patriotic Scots .0 banish from ,h"r memory their once independent government. torn of the t Regalia, in i standing the royal 11 ag \ castle, whicl a numerous impatient t(i search. Th result to th( Kegalia was to the fjffice great seal, v able prccaut be exhibited the public v venerable m Afterward <-astle, " Qu ancient buil 16 1-2 feet b was in forme all .Scotlanc staves and h a modern ca On tne carr but there is Scotland or ter. Leaving t by troops, Palace, situ? I ilii.Bi i :...-;,xv O'n- t/ir Alhvitu, J17 ia\t' bct-ri rtly atUr Regal iii. es of thi- that the matters oplc still Is royal Kcgcnt. or with- '■ sight of nee had e direc- had so Scottish handed i reeling Jst and on Id be ed, and 1, when he bot- vas done om iheir i torn of tlic old chest was the long lost Scottish Regalia, in a good state ol preservation, notwith- standing their having laid there no ivw/m. The royal flag was immediately hoisted upon the castle, which was greeted by the loud shouts ot a numerous cnnvd assembled outside the walh. impatient to learn the result f)f the interesting search. The officers having reported the happy result to the Prince Regent, the custody of the Regalia was on the 8th of July, i8i8, committed to the officers of State, by a warrant under the great seal, with instructions, after making suit- able precautions for their safety, that they might be exhibited to the public, and in one year later the public were gratified with a sight of those venerable memorials. Afterwards we visited, before leaving the lat- ter. Leaving this ancient fortress, still garrisoned by troops, we wended our way to Holyrood Palace, situate at the foot of a lofty hill called I ij 9l8 O'er the Atlantic. "Arthur's Seat." This building is constructed similar in form to Hampton Court, and dates back from the days of Queen Mary. We were soon wandering, i. e., I was in deep thought, through its ancient chambers, entering first the picture gallery, a long room, the walls of which were hung with portraits in sombre frames. of a hundred kings of Scotland, from Ferguson the First to the end of the Stewart dynasty, being copies of originals and painted by De Witt in the i6th century. A striking peculiarity in the features of most of those monarchs is the length of the nose, which is unusually long, especially among those of the earlier date, which date back to 330 years B. C, when Fergus was king. The Parliament for some time was held in this room. We were next shown into Lord Darnley's room and the audience chamber, the walls of which are hung with ancient tapestry, and some dozen paintings of various monarchs. There are seve- ral other rooms of more or less note hung with tapestry, the subjects of which are dim with age, the most interesting of which are Queen Mary's reception room, supper room and bed room. In one of those is to be seen the bedstead and other furniture of Charles I, which he used when residing in the palace, also some embroidered chairs of the same date. In the reception room Mary and the great reformer Knox oftentimes met face to face, and discussed topics with refer- ence to her religious faith, the result of which proved per roo mortal in the stabbinj relievec her bed bearing reigns with th used by the apa small p his infa ment tc In m; of the ( Palace, in the n •The I Queen, ai her creed I. O'er the Atlantic. 219 is constructed irt, and dates ry. We were deep thought, jring first the rails of which e frames. of a Ferguson the y nasty, being De Witt in liarity in the i is the length ng, especially lich date back IS king. The in this room, irnley's room of which are some dozen lere are seve- te hung with lim with age, )ueen Mary's d room. In ad and other used when embroidered ;eption room X oftentimes ;s with refer- jlt of which proved so fatal to her interests.* It was the sup- per room wherein Secretary Rizzio received his mortal wounds, and whence he was dragged in the Queen's presence by the conspirators, stabbing him over and over again, until death relieved him of his agonies. The ceiling of her bed room is divided into panels, each i)anel bearing the arras and initials of Scottisii sove- reigns in the centre, and is partially furnished with the bedstead, bedding and decayed hangings, used by the unfortunate Queen when occupying the apartment. It was from this room tlirough a small private door that the upstart, Darnley, and his infamous associates went into the royal apart- ment to murder Rizzio. In my next I will give my readers an account of the Old Abbey or Chapel Royal adjoining the Palace, and the remainder of the sights we saw in the modern Athens. *The Reformer was the source of much anoyance to the Queen, and his persistent efforts to induce her to change her creed, made her the more firm in her belief 220 0*er the Atlantic. the extei we saw t' nnnssum; Ch.arles ] form : LETTER XXIII. SCOTLAND, CONTINUKD. After seeing all that was of interest within the walls of Holy rood Palace, we wended our way to survey the ruins of all that is left of the old abbey or chapel royal, adjoining the palace, which was founded by King David. The mon- astery dates back to the twelfth century. Edward II done mucli damage to it, and Richard II set fire to it in 1385, when after undergoing repairs it suffered much in 1547, and at the outbreak of the reformation it was made a complete ruin. Within its ancient walls many of the Scotch monarchs were crowned and married, and in the eastern extremity, under the large window, kneeled Mary, Queen of Scots, when she gave her hand to the simpleton, Darnley, and near the spot, to the right, is tlie old vault, wherein it is said, rested at ouc time, the remains of King David II, as also that of other monarchs of Scotland; but alas! the ravages of war and time, have left no record of the facts. Leaving the interior for a while, we went outside to view Sevcra erected t count Be and tomb the inscri legible, c and on c inscri ptic ( But the that can I there are who, or M withstand many of 1 ancestors within the 1 our way of the old lie palace, The mon- . Edward lard II set ■ig repairs utbreak of 2 ruin. he Scotch and in the window, she gave and near wherein it s of King narchs of war and Leaving le to view O'er the Atlantic, 221 tlie exterior, and looking up over tlic doorway we saw the following inscription on a plain and unassuming stone, imbedded in the wall by Charles I, and I give it to my readers in ]irecise form : " lie sluill build ane house For nij" name, and I will Statdish the Throne Of his Kingdom For ever." " Hasilicam hancc Return Carolus Rex Optimus Instauravit Anno Doni." Several line monuments, especially those erected to the memory of Lord Roay and -Vis- count Belhaven (the latter a very beautiful one), and tombstones are to be seen within the ruin, the inscriptions upon several of which are quite legible, one showing the distinct date of 1455, and on one is the following very characteristic inscription: " Heir lyes ane honorable woman, Callit Margaret Erskin, Lady Alercus, And Dame XVII, July, 159." But the history of a great many of even those that can be deciphered, is buried with them, for there are no authentic records to be found of who, or what they were in their time ; and not- withstanding the ruinous state of the abbey, many of the present nobility of Scotland, whose ancestors sleep within those old walls, still keep t. 332 O'er the Atlantic. u adding to the number, as the members of the various ffcnerations depart this life, for they cherish a love and respect for their ancient burial place. After taking a last lingering look at this old ruin, we took our leave, entered the carriage, whicli liad been in waiting, and were driven around the '• Queen's drive," wiiich afforded us beeautiful views of the Firth of Forth, I.eith Harbor, and f)f Craig-millar Castle, wherein have resided James IV, V, and (^)ueen Mary. Passing around tiie mountain called " Arthur's Seat." which towered high above us, crouching 111 lion form, for it resembles verv much that majestic beast of the forest, we again entered tlie city by another route, and proceeded to visit other places, among which I may name the Royal Institution and the Antiquarian Museum, which contained a host of national relics, many of which were associated with the life and times of John Knox and others of his time, the National (Gallery devoted to the exhibition of pictures, quite :i fine collection, and Callow Hill, from where we obtained a beautiful view of the city, the Firth of Forth, Arthurs Seat and tire Castle, and I will say that it was the finest view I have ever witnessed. On Callow Hill, resemblingthe ruinsof Athens, is the unfinished National Monument, which has in its incomplete state, cost ^12,000, and owes its present classic appearance, to a want of further funds for its completion. In the immediate ncighborhoo magnificent building, cor monument, v his metpory. We also sj fifteenth cent when he diec and his favo Union cellar we could not longer, tempu scenes, but it the further | gay Princes; monument, i say (Q«ntle beautiful wa times loiterei and politely respectfully Abbottsford. Yes, I left for I liked it there, but it hark ! it is t please," the 1 hurry to our locked, and i the delightfi very appropt d*cr the Atlantic. 223 s of the 'or they Ubiirial this old carriage, driven rded us 1, I.eith IV herein I Mary. Wthur's filching ch that entered to visit t; Royal , wiiich lilH}- of imes LETTER XXIV. SCOTLAND, CONTINUED. Stirling. — We remained there but suflicient time to see the most interesting parts of it, so made our way immediately on our arrival for the old castle, which we found resembled very mucli that of Edinburgh, especially in the position it occupies, and like it, has within its walls its chambers of horrors, for there is the room in which the brave Douglas (now called the " Douglas room,") lost his life by the hands of assassins, who secreted themselves in the chamber adjoining, hence wiiy it is named the " Secret Chamber," and underneath the window over the arched gateway his lifeless bod}', it is said, was found in the morning. A lady is in charge of * those rooms, who expects a fee from all visitors ere she will volunteer to give a minute account of how and why the brave warrior became a victim to the assassin's knife, Avhich account is no doubt vague and very incorrect.* * This woman was most exacting, unpleasant and impolite, and should be removed, to give room for one of better • manners. 336 O'er the Atlantic. One of the soldiers of the garrison, off duty, as we emerged from tiie Douglas room, very politely proflered his services to show us around the castle, which I gladly accepted, and our guide quickly led the way to the battlements, from where he pointed out various places of interest, commencing by drawing my attention to the Wallace monument, now in the course of erection on the Abbey Craig, to complete which Scotchmen and the descendants of Scotchmen in the United States and the Canadas have con- tributed, and are still contributing large sums of money ; but the structure, magnificent and stu- IJendous as it is, deserves a better location than tliat it is erected on. Stirling, or the centre of the ever memorable field of Bannockburn would be, in my opinion, a far more desirable location. My attention was next called to the battle field of Stirling, and then to that of Bannockburn, both "1 right opposite directions, but within a few miles of each other. Airthrey Castle, the seat of Lord Abercrombie, and that of Sir William Stirling Maxwell, of Kerr, Kenneth Abbey, in which lies interred the remains of James III, and over which has been lately erected at the expense of her present majesty, the Queen, an elegant tomb in memory of that long" departed monarch. I was also shown the Tournament ground beneath the walls, and the stone wheron Mary Queen of Scots often sat to watch the national games of the period, by looking through an aperture those engage tance and vi: able little to of much resc ticating am Indeed, from around for n extensive an nessed. Leaving tl the palm of ' of Her Ma received a m for my gene coats on oui the castle, ar an elderly guide, and capacity, wl " Silence gii doubt, for hi tion to an ol halted, and t broad Scotc "This ol< Regent, inte after it was c tion the site haps by the of a proud I. O'er the Atlantic. 227 off duty, 3m, very s around and our lements, )laces of Utention :ourse of e which hmen in .ve con- sums of ind stu- ion than centre of n would ocation. ; field of rn, both 1 a few e seat of kVilliam »bey, in nes III, 1 at the een, an eparted nament wheron tch the hrough an aperture in the wall, without being seen by those engaged in the games. Away in the dis- tance and visible to the naked eye is the fashion- able little town of tlie bridge of Allan, a place of much resort by the wealthy, desirous of rus- ticating among mountains and green fields. Indeed, from the battlements the whole country around for many miles can be seen, and a more extensive and delightful view is but seldom wit- nessed. Leaving the polite and obliging man at arms, the palm of whose hand I gently pressed with one of Her Majesty's silver coin, and in return received a most grateful smile and a polite salute for my generosity. We passed the guard of red coats on our way to the outside of the walls of the castle, and ere vvc had proceeded very far met an elderly man, who introduced himself as guide, and offered me his services in that capacity, which I did not refuse nor accept. " Silence gives consent," thought Mr. Guide, no doubt, for he commenced by calling my atten- tion to an old building in front of which we had halted, and the history of which he gave to me in broad Scotch, viz : "This old building, sir, was erected by tiie Regent, intending itfor a palace for James VI., but after it was commenced and in process of construc- tion the site was objected to by the public, and per- haps by the King himself, and the Regent being of a proud and independent spirit, suddenly sus- Ilfi 228 O'lr the Atlantic. pendcd operations and left it in its unfinished state.' The following characteristic inscription over the doorway speaks for itself: The moir I sjand on open hicht My faults moir subject ar to sitght, I pray all luckcrs on this loging With gentle p' to gif thair juging. The cathedral, or grey friar church of Francis- can monks, in tlic rear of the Regent's old build- ■ng, was erected by James IV, ,494, and is really an old fashioned building. It was then undergoing repairs, so we did not see the interior but went through a great portion of the burial ground adjoining, in which are some ven- line monuments, several of which have been ejected • at the sole expense of a Mr. William Drummond. a wealthy Scotch gentleman, resident in the neighborhood, to the memory of Scotch martyrs One of^rhn?'"""' '"'^ '^''^"''^ '^^"''«^-^ ^'^h it. ^tendon u"""""'"'"'' '"'■"^'"^ "^y P^"''^"'''^'- attention. It was enclosed within a glass pavilion to protect it from the weathef in memory of Margaret Wilson and her si;ter Agnes, comprised of three life si^e figures reore senting the two sisters and their guardian angel' he latter o. the finest Italian mafble, sculptu^:!! m Rome. I his group is exceedingly beautiful and cannot but challenge the admfrJtion of all who see then. A high pyramid is also erected there by the same gentleman in memory of martyrs of the xyth century, and there are'also very many fi of John Kno whose name! acquainted w As I wane the oldest in* of which I f the follow in] erected in m 1809, and la same name, Stirlingshire, Our, Som( Othe And, The, And, Larg That He, Has, From "La looking the castle walls, the country, when he too! tower can be fired on his castle during Our guide man, directe ». ^ nfinished scription Francis- Id build- , and is ras then interior, le burial •erv line I erected " mmond, in the martyrs with it. rticular ii glass :her, in " sister s repre- I angel, Iptured autiful, I of all erected ory of re also 0\r the Atlantic aap very many fine statues, among which are those of John Knox, Henderson, Melville and others, whose names are as household words to those acquainted with the history of Scotland. As I wandered over the ground in search of the oldest inscription among the old tombstones of which I found none prior to 1523, I noticed the following lines on a tombstone, formerly erected in memory of Alexander E. Mifflin in 1809, and later to the memory of one of the same name, who had been chief constable of Stirlingshire, who died in 1867 : Our, life, is, but, a, winter, day, Some, only, breakfast, and, away, Others, to, Dinner, stay. And, are, well, fed, The, oldest, man, but, sups, And, goes, to, bed, , Large, is, his, debt, That, lingers, out, the, day, He, that, goes, soonest, Has, the, least, to, pay. From "Ladies' Hill," an elevated spot over- looking the Tournament ground beneath the castle walls, can be obtained a beautiful view of the country. General Monek held this position when he took the castle, and on the old church tower can be plainly seen the marks of the shot fired on his forces from the battlements of the castle during the siege. Our guide, who I found was a well informed man, directed our steps from the old burial ^v> O'er thf AthiHtii. gruund to Arjiylc Lodge, erected by Alexander, first harl of Stirling, ,652, and t(.ld me it was occupied by the Duke of Argyle during the first rebellion. Within its walls Charles I was enter- tamed when on a visit to Stirling. We wore afterwards shown Lord Darnley's residence, where James VI was nursed; Earl Uuthwells house, the murderer of Darnley, who afterwards aspired to the hand <,f his royal widow; and the old m.nt, wherein the first coin, called a bawbee, was co.ned, which had on one side an in.pression of the head o. Queen Mary when a child, hence bawbee, meaning little or small, perhaps of the value of a farthing or an American half cent -Iroceeding on our way to the hotel our attention was drawn to an old building still .nhab.ted, wherein at one time resided a certain Knight ol the Scissors, whose sign of native stone still remains imbedded in the ;vall over the door, with the following inscription rudely inscribed thereon. I give an exact copy so far as form is concerned : RoUKRT Sl'ITTAI., Tailor [scissors] to King, James 4th Anno 1530 R. S. We left this ancient and pretty town by the North British Railway for Glasgow, by way of Balloch, on Lochlomand. For unfortunately ive were unable to proceed to the Trossachs, owing to the heavy which we wei a circumstan is said, is gra On our arr proceeded or with its old Clyde, then n muddy but I great city (i ceedcd, wear on Argyle s everv comfoi O'er thi' AtliintU. «3» klexandcr, lie it was g the first vas ciitcr- \ye Horc residence, lothwell's ftcrwards ; and tlie a bawbee, iipression Id, lience [)s of the alf cent, ote! our ing still a certain f native over the rudely )>' so far ti) the heavy rains which fell at lis and which we were informed made it vei >iti isant, a circumstance I was sorry for, as the scenery it is said, is grand in the extreme. On our arrival at Balloch we changed cars and proceeded on our journey through Dumbarton with its old castle on the rocks high above the Clyde, then along the banks of that shallow and muddy but busy river, until we arrived in the great city of Glasgow, and immediately pro- ceeded, weary and tired, to the " Cobden Hotel," on Argyle street, which we found replete with everv comfort and convenience. by the way of itelyvve , owing 232 O'er the Atlantic. .LETTER XXV. SCOTLAND, CONTINUED. Glasgow.-I found this city to be precisely as Tr 'j?!^™^^' ^ ^"^^ky, busy place, as much unlike Edinburgh as day is to night, with nothing of much interest to recommend it to the stranger and tourist; but notwithstanding I mustgivemy readers a brief account of some of its public and commercial buildings, and what we saw durintr our stay. " The CATHEDRAi,.-This large, and indeed I may say fine old structure, now very much restored, was dedicated, it is supposed, to St Mungo or St. Kentyn, who is the reputed founded of the city. In 560 he established the bishopric of Glasgow. The cathedral was erected bv John Achams, Bishop of Glasgow, in 1113, some historians say during the reign of David I. It is of Gothic architecture, and has in and around it tombstones whose inscriptions date back to A ^. 1500 at which time the people, Ave ; /e informed, went to church carrying concealed weapons, even the clergymen went armed into the pulpit to protec ferocious, to their 1 strictly, /' church oi the chur Scotland, only con organ noi choir tol( those wh( The wii line, beinj elaborate manufacti brated in (in memo gregation inscribed connectec donor, co samT patt the taste ; construct ments. TheN; hood an< necropoli and fifty erected s I O'er the AtlanUc. 333 precisel)- as ce, as much vith nothing the stranger lust give my s public and saw during d indeed I ver}' much >sed, to St. ted founder le bishopric erected by H13, some 'id I. It is i around it )ack to A. B, Ave ;./e concealed irmed into the pulpit, which, it appears, was necessary, so as to protect themselves from the lawless and ferocious, which were those generally opposed to their doctrine. The cathedral is conducted strictly, i. e., in the mode of worship, as the church of Scotland (Presbyterian), and like all the churches of that persuasion throughout Scotland, the services are simple and plain, with only congregational singing, there being no organ nor any musical instrument and professed choir tolerated, to cater to the refined taste (jf those who advocate professional harmony. The windows of the cathedral are remarkably fine, being works of art of the most costly and elaborate kind, in stained and painted glass, manufactured at Munich and otlier places cele- brated in the art, and are gifts to the church (in memoriam) from various members of the con- gregation, whose respective names, dates, &c., are inscribed thereon, and setting forth particulars connected with the deceased relatives of the donor, consequently the windows are not of the samT pattern and design, but vary according to the taste and amount of money expended in the construction of those handsome and useful monu- ments. The Necropolis. — In the immediate neighbor- hood and to the rear of the cathedral is the necropolis or cemetery, elevated two hundred and fifty feet above the river Clyde, in which are erected some very fine monuments, and the 1 i I «34 0\-r the Atlantic. %\ grounds are kept in the highest state of cleanli- ness, order and cultivation ; so much so, that it is daily the resort of hundreds, who stroll through .ts romantic walks, admiring the elegant and handsome monuments and vaults which adorn the place, among which stand conspicuous those ni memory of John Knox, Dr. Black, Dr. Dick. McGev.n, Maj. Monteith and Alice Dunlop Knox s monument AVas the first erected on the ground, long before it became a cemeterv, erected there because of its high elevation, and kT, '!. ^^' u^ "''''' "magnificent view can be obtained of the surro-. nding country Within the city is a fine public square wherein are some very fine mon.unents. among which stands ,n the centre that erected to the memory of Sir Walter Scott, and equestrian statues of the ^ueen and the Prince consort. The Glasgow University is a fine old building of the 17th century. The National Bank of Scotland and the Royal Exchange are fine modern buildings. In front of the latter is a very fine Wellington monument commemorative of the battle of Waterloo, in the design of which the artist has displayed much genius and good taste, m giving life like representations of the soldier in civil and military life, graphically por- raying his career from agricultural pursuits to the battle field. As a monumental work of art I was much struck with its beauty and natural appearance. Glasgow ha I liked Arg3 fine large hoi second to nor is celebrated a world for stei steamers are y be the finest now doing the sengers betw various ports such steamers the Russia of Inman and oti designs of eel are acknowle world mastei adieu to Glas through Paisl of shawls and whereon is ofl curling bet we Kilberney, nc large iron ft the celebrated " Scotch Pig,' the distance, t of water, and away to our r in Trova, fror distance to ou O'er the Atlantic. ni F cleanli- that it is through :ant and h adorn lus those )r. Dick, Dunlop. I on the ;nieterv, ion, and can be ivherein \ which nemory itues of uilding ank of 'e fine er is a orative which 1 good of the ly por- uits to f art I latural Glasgow has also some fine streets, of which I liked Argyle street the best, and several fine large hotels, which are, I was informed,, second to none in the United Kingdom, and it is celebrated as being the great ^porium of the world for steamship building. Its Clyde built steamers are well known and acknowledged to be the finest and fastest vessels afloat, and arc now doing the leading trade in freight and pas- sengers between the United States and the various ports of Europe. It was on the Clyde such steamers as the Scotia, Persia, Cuba, Java and the Russia of the Cunard line, and others of the Inman and other lines were built, after lines and designs of celebrated Scotch shio u -Iders, who are acknowledged to be all ovei < vilized world masters of their professi idding adieu to Glasgow, we took rail and proceeded through Paisley, celebrated for its manufacture of shawls and spool cotton, on by Lochweinon, whereon is often played the celebrated games of curling between the north and south, still on by Kilberney, noticing as we went along several large iron furnaces, wherein is manufactured the celebrated iron known all over the world as " Scotch Pig," obtaining a view of Ardrossan in the distance, the Firth of Clyde, a broad expanse of water, and Isle of Arran with its lofty hills away to our right, on we went until we arrived in Trova, from where we saw Kilmarnock some distance to our left, and soon after we were duly ». 336 O'er the Atlantic. It W : set down in the quaint and quiet little town of info,^;::;'"^'''^^^^'^^'^^-^'--^^^^^^ " Xe'er a town surpasses For honest men and bonnic lasses." As we entered the town, the first sight that he Twa Bngs o' Ayr," which are so hallowed n he strains of Bt.rns, whose humorous and ihe Auld Bng was built during the reign of ;wor r "/■^^^^-r.Ss, at the sole expense o two maiden ladies named Lowe, who, it is said devoted the whole of their fortune t^ the puf: pose. It ,s very narrow and steep at both ends and was intended no aouoi for a foot bridge and for beasts of burden. As we went alon/^I was suddenly brought to a stand still, as my eyes jovial looking figures painted on a sign board " The house wherein Tam O'Shanter and Souter Johnny held their meetings " Of course I could not but stay awhile beneath nn.fr\' '■°°^' "^ '" ^^^ ^«"' ^"d were verv politely shown up stairs by the good landlady , Mrs_ Glass, who cosily seated us in the Tarn sin Trih-h' ^?T J°'^""^ ^'^^'^^' ^"d were soon imbibing of Scotch dew out of the ever memorable cup (of which but very little is left) used by those i they met in tha based upon one t rived to link t able poetic tah Tam had Fast by a Wi reami And .It hi His ancic The bard set spirit of the o Heeting hours Barleycorn pa; " The nicht And ay the Too often ii little is to crea was the case w Midnight ca two *' cronies" Tam to stradc ceed on his w; and stormy i says : As ne' And his joi wend his way ! great circle s?. O'er the Atlantic. m 3\vn of h Burns ?Iit that on were lallovved )us and >f both, eign of )ense of is said, !ie pur- h ends, Ige and r I was y eyes :h two board Joking Jneath ; verv dlady, ' Tarn 1 were ■ ever 5 left), used by those worthy and congenial spirits when they met in that very room in the days of Burns, based upon one of which meetings the poet con- trived to link together the humorous and inimit- able poetic tale of "Tam O'Shanter," when " Ae market night . Tam had got planted unco right, Fast by an ingle, bicczing finely Wi reaming Swats that drunk divinely And i»t his elbow, Souter Johnny ; His ancient, trusty, drouthie crony." _ The bard seems to have truly entered into the spirit of the occasion, for he describes how the Heeting hours under the merry influence of John Barleycorn passed swiftly away, viz : " The nicht drave on wi sangs and clatter, And ay the ale was growing better." Too often is it the case, that to partake of a little is to create a desire for more, which I infer was the case with those two worthies. Midnight came at last^ wlien it is supposed the two •' cronies" prepared to separate for the niglit, Tam to straddle his " auld grey mare," to pro- ceed on his way home, upon a. remarkable dark and stormy night, of which the poet further says : " Night he tak's the road in. As ne'er poor sinner was abroad in." And his jovial companion the shoemaker, to wend his way horr.eward afoot, after the fashion of great circle sniiing. I. 338 O'er the Atlantic. In my next, after giving a general account of Ayr I vyiU conduct my readers o'er the ground which boozy Tam traveled on that eventful sc Ayr. — 1 cloi Tam O'Shante the old tavern a promise of further accour took them ove hame on that e'' This beautil county seat of ate surroundii life and times become knowr " Land o' Bun harbor and qu Clyde, and th occupied by a mand the enti barracks, whic edifice, vpere e at the head of up Sandgate s' ». :ount of ground eventful O'er the Atlantic. 239 LETTER XXVI. SCOTLAND, CONTINUED. AvR. — I closed my last communication with Tam O'Slianter and Souter Johnny's carousal at the old tavern named after the worthy pair, with a promise of giving my readers in my next a further account of this pretty little town ere I took them over the road on which Tam ganged home on that eventful night. This beautiful and picturesque town is the county seat of Ayrshire, and is, with its immedi- ate surroundings, so much associated with the life and times of the farmer poet, that it has become known all over the civilized world as the " Land o' Burns." In the northern suburb is the harbor and quay, stretching towards the Firth of Clyde, and the outer position of the latter is occupied by a strong fort, so placed as to com- mand the entrance to the harbor. The present barracks, which occupy the site of a much older edifice, were erected by Oliver Cromwell, when at the head of the British Government. Passing up Sandgate street, a wide and rather handsonie »J ^- 340 O'er the Atlantic. i ) horougJ,farc, we were soon in front of the town bu.ld.ngs. the spire of which is lofty and hand- tlnT tho Tm •"*^"""«d '^^' it is .35 feet high, and hat the bu.ldmg contains an assembly room, together with several others used for various' purposes. It was erected about forty years ago a an outlay of ^.0,000, and it is certainly^x building which the goocf people of the town and county o Ayr should be pro-d of Nearly opposite this building is the Ayrshire Bank, and a little further on, Wellington Square. On this square are several well built houses and the county buildings, wherein are the court house county assembly room, the office for the use of the various county officials, and of those con nected with the court. Those buildings were" erected in ,83., at a cost of ^30.000 which auiount was defrayed by the county, iut the most interesting feature in the adornment of this square is that of a statue of General Neill who was killed as he led his troops into the' citadel of Lucknow, in India, on the 2Sth of September, 1857. o "^ • Leaving Wellington Square and turning to the right we had a view of an old antique tower standing m a Held a little distance off It is* whiVh "'" ""!;''""' '''^"" ^^ ^*- J°h"'« Church, which was destroyed by Cromwell during the and "T^- '' T ^^""^'^ '" *he x.th century, and dedicated to St. John the Baptist.- Soon after the independence of Scotland had been achieved victory at Ba fix the succe which purpos John's Churc April, 1315, O! adopted the family, the w King Robert / Retracing ( Sandgate strc( Bay of Ayr, high rock, an< distance. The Parish is built upon I astery, founde by Oliver Cro the destructio The Walla, structure, risi feet. The lov some store or each a good si occupied as others by the ing contains s clock. In a r lamented and the tower wa .thousand poui K O'er the Atlantic. 941 the town nd liand- Iiigl), and 'ly roon), ■ various •ears ago rtainly a own and Near])' fink, and On this and the t house, e use of Jse con- gs were , which But the nent of 1 Neill, uto the !Sth of ling to tower, It is hurch, ig the ntury, tist.— d had been achieved, on the »4tli of June, 13 14, by the victory at Bannockburn, it became desirable to fix the succession to the Scottish throne, for which purpose a Parliament was held in St. John's Church at Ayr, on Sunday, the 26th of April, 1315, on which day, in the old church, was adopted the line of succession in the Bruce family, the whole assembly swearing fealty to King Robert the Bruce. Retracing our steps from this point towards Sandgate street, we obtained a good view of the Bay of Ayr, with Grennan Castle, built on a high rock, and the celebrated Ailsa Craig, in the distance. The Parish Church, or " Auld Kirk o* Ayr," is built upon the site of an old Dominican mon- astery, founded in 1230, out of funds contributed by Oliver Cromwell by way of compensation for the destruction of St. John's Church. The Wallace Tower is a beautiful gothic structure, rising to the height of one hundred feet. The lower part is converted into a hand- some store or shop, above which are three stories, each a good sized room in itself, one of which is occupied as a mechanics' institute, and the others by the bellman of the tower. The build- ing contains a fine peal of bells and a h&ndsome clock. In a niche on the front is a statue of the lamented and patriotic Wallace, to whose memory the tower was erected at a cost of about two .thousand pounds. t. ^ li V W O'er Ihc Atlantic. I.caving Ayr vi-e proceeded some distance into the country, to see the neighborhood where Robert Biirns spent a great portion of his lifetime, and I was soon gladdened witli a sight of the following, written on a sign board over the doorway of a thatched cottage (the outer walls of which were thickly white washed with wholesome lime)': " The house in which Burns was born." Soon we were within its portals, which we found densely crowded with visitors. Yes. reader, in that humble abode on the roadside, was ushered into the world on the 25th day of January, 1759, a peasant boy, whose fame has gone forth throughout the civilized world. And in a recess, wherein stands the old bedstead in the kitchen of the cottage, still occupied as a sleeping place, as he himself informs us, " A bi.nst o' Janwar win Hk'w hansel in on Robin." By which he meant to convey to us that on a certain night soon after iiis birth a storm blew down the outer wall of the frail cottage, owing to which himself and his mother had to be removed to another part of the house while the 'damage was being repaired. In this old cottage, it is said, the poet— indeed his biographers say so— wrote the much admired poem, " The Cottar's Saturday Night," and now its great and growing celebrity, the popularity of the dirtrict, and the multiplicity of visitors. has done muc old home.stea tion of tile S father sold th and family to built in the only improvi property, but mod. From Alloway Kirli wo proceeded along the road which our friend Tarn O'Shantcr rode over when followed closely by the witches, in the hope that he could reach the bridge, now known as the " Auld Brig o' Doon," which spans %hc river Doon, and leave the keystone of the arch in his rear, when their power over him, it was said, would cease. But alas! lie was doomed to disappointment, for just as he gained the bridge the enraged hags caught the auld grey marc by the tail, of which the bard further says : " The carlin claught her by the rump. An' left puir Maggie scarce a stump. " On we went until we came in sight of a neat hotel, erected at the junction of the old and new road leading towards Maybole, named the " Burn's Hotel," in and around which some hundreds of persons were assembled, to visit the monument and Auld Brig o' Doon, some of which were accom- IF, ^ O'er the Atlantic. panied by bands of music, whose lively strains were principally those associated with the songs of Burns. The monument is erected on a site overlooking the old bridge, and is an open circular temple of classic beauty, having nine fluted Corinthian columns representing the muses. It is sixty feet high, on a base of rustic mason work twenty feet high, making it eighty feet from the ground. The interior is a circular room, lighted by a cupola of rich stained glass, which contains many relics connected with the history of the poet, among which is the Bible he presented to Highland Mary when they last met, and Jane Armour's gold finger rings, some copies of the best edition of his works, and other articles of interest linked with his memory, as also a well executed marble bust pf him in his palmy days. Leaving that room we wandered over the grounds which surround the monument, and while doing so came upon a small cottage which we entered, and found it to contain the original life-size statues of Tam O'Shanter and Souter Johnny, the handiwork of a self-taught sculptor, a native of the neighborhood. I was informed that they were exhibited in all the principal cities and towns of Great Britain, where they were universally acknowledged as being perfect m every respect, and admired as a great work of art, thereby establishing.for the artist a reputation and g^ini much to h We left down the Brig o' D( O'Shantei alive," anc its surfac attentive!] Banks an( one of th( a hundrec around tl but seldoi solely dcA to worshi The b: restored 1 many ye repairing joints am mount th thousand carved oi have fron of Burns name, foi adding n pose the I side goin I foun K* *' - lively strains I'ith the songs i overlooking liar temple of d Corinthian [t is sixty feet k twenty feet the ground, lighted by a ich contains istory of the presented to et, and Jane :opies of the ;r articles of s also a well palmy days, ed over the lument, and 3ttage which the original and Souter jht sculptor, as informed le principal where they eing perfect 'eat work of a reputation O'er the Atlaniie. 249 and graining for himself a name, which added much to his pecuniary resources. We left this delightful retreat and proceeded down the old road, and ^oon were on the Auld Brig o' Doon, picturing in my imagination Tarn O'Shanter's flght over it, " when more dead than alive," and the days when the immortal bard trod its surface. There I stood with my heart full, attentively listening to the beautiful song, " Ve Banks and Braes o' Bonnie Doon," rendered by one of the visitors, accompanied by a chorus of a hundred voices from those standing on and around the bridge. More pure devotit)n I had but seldom witnessed. Every one seemed to be solely devoted to the day and occasion, as if there to worship at the shrine of Burns. The bridge, of late, has been very much restored by removing the thick ivy which for many years had clad its gray walls, and by repairing with cement the fast decaying stones, joints and crevices. But the stones which sur- mount the walls are the same, and still bear thousands of names and initials of names, rudely carved on their surface by some of those who have from time to time journeyed into the land of Burns, and among which soon figured another name, for I availed myself of the opportunity of adding mine to the list, choosing for tiie pur- pose the tenth or centre stone on the right hand side going towards Maybole. I found it very pleasant, nay, delightful, to »/ ^ 'SO O'er the Atlantic. wander along the banks of the beautiful and placid little river, so much associated with the memory of the great bard, where he, upon many occasions, as he reclined on the green sward, or leisurely walked along, his soul wrapped in the muse, composed some of the poems which now are so much admired. Apropos of this, if I recollect right, it was there he composed or laid down the foundation of his truly laughable and amusing poem of Tarn O'Shanter; and while doing so his wife who became anxious for his return home one day, owing to him remaining out on his walk longer than usual, went out to seek him, when she found him walking along the river bank, making the strangest gesticulations, and at times laughing and talking to himself which might have led her to suppose that he had become suddenly insane, and perhaps more fit for an inmate of a lunatic asylum, than a wanderer along a nver bank. But the poet was then, it appears, overhead and ears in this inimitable poem, which was affording him mirth beyond his concep- tion, and causing him to laugh immoderately at his ludicrous composition, of which the following are the most amusing parts, depicting Tam's approaching the old haunted kirk :* "The lightnings flashed from pole to pole ; Near and more near the thunders roll ; When glimmering thro* the groaning trees, "rZI'n-S,""'.' '» "°' P^"'''^" 'hat the Bard composed Tam O Shanter," even in this neighborhood. ''°™P°*^° Kirk Alia Thro' ilka And loud " Inspirin, What dan Wi' tippci Wi' asqua The swat' Fair play, But Magj Till, by tl She ventu And wow Warlocks Nae cotill But horni Put life a " As Tan The mirtl The pipei The danc They reel Till ilka And coos And link " But wit Rig\vood Lowping I wonder And how And thoi Even Sat And hotc Till first Tam tint O'er the Atlantic. 251 iautiful and ed with the upon many :n sward, or pped in the which now f this, if I osed or laid ighabie and and while ious for his remaining kvent out to g along the ticulations, to himself that he had more fit for 1 wanderer as then, it table poem, hisconcep- -atelyathis following ing Jam's i composed Kirk Alloway seemed in a bleeze ; Thro' ilka bore the beams were glancing, ; And loud resounded mirth and dancing. " Inspiring bold John Barleycorn ! What dangers thou canst make us scorn ! Wi' tippeny, we fear nae evil ; Wi' asquabae we'll face the devil ! — The swat's sao ream'd in Tammie's noddle, Fair play, he car'd nae deils a boddle, But Maggie stood right sair astonish'd, Till, by the heel and hand admonish'd ; She ventur'd forward on the light, And wow ! Tam saw an unco sight ! Warlocks and witches in a dance, Nae cotillion brent new frae France, But hornpipes, jigs, strathspeys and reels, Put life and mettle in their heels. " As Tammie glowr'd, amaz'd and curious. The mirth and fun grew fast and furious ; The piper loud and louder blew. The dancers quick and quicker flew ; They recl'd, they set, tliey cross'd, they cleekit Till ilka carl in swat and reekit, And coost her duddies to the wark And linket at it in her sark ! " But wither'd beldams, auld and droll, Rig^voodic hags, wad spean a foal, Lowping an' flinging on a cummock, I wonder didna turn thy stomach. And how Tam stood like one bewitch'd. And thought his very een enrich'd ;, Even Satan glower'd, and fidg'd fu' fain, And hotched and blew wi might and main ; Till first ae caper, syne anither Tam tint his reason a' thegither, ty 25' O'er the Atlantic, And roars out 'weel done, cutty-sark I' And in an instant all was dark ; And scarcely had he Maggie rallied, When out the hellish legion sallied. " As bc6s bizz out wi angry fyke, i When plundering herds assail their bykc ; As open pussie's mortal foes, When, pop ! she starts before their nose ; As eager runs the market crowd. When " catch the thief!" resounds aloud ; So Maggie runs, the witches follow, Wi* mony an eldritch screech and hollow. " Ah, Tarn ! ah, Tam ! thou'll get thy fairin' ! In hell they'll roast thee like a herrin' ! In vain thy Kate awaits thy comin', Kate soon will be a woefi: woman ! Now do thy speedy utmost, Meg, And coin the keystane of the Brig ; There at them thou thy tail may toss. A running stream they darena cross !" "Thus runs the legend poem throughout, dis- playing much variety of power in its brief com- position. It was written as an inducement to Grose to admit Alloway Kirk into his work on the antiquities of Scotland, so we are informed, by Allan Cunningham, in his- new life of the poet." And now having given a somewhat more lengthy account of the " Land o' Burns," past and present, than I intended to do, I nfUst away from that very interesting spot and subject, and bid Scotland adieu, for the time has at length arrived to within a few days of our departure to re-cross^ once more the broad Atlantic ; but a few genera letter; in Ire same s Scot and to tain t< hundr majesi indeet parts comp: betvvc Ballo infori the p To for i treeU heath chart coun appr lowe tops, quer und( and win( and »^ rk! bykc ; nose ; iloud ; lollow. y fairin' ! in'! :hroughout, dis- n its brief com- inducement to ito his worlc on e are informed, new life of the n a somewhat ^and o' Burns," d to do, I nfUst pot and subject, le has at length ur departure to Atlantic; but O'er the Atlantu. aS3 a few words abo>it Scotland and its people generally will, I trust, not be out of place in this letter; for I have on the termination of our tour in Ireland and Wales remarked briefly on the same subject. . . Scotland is the northern part of Great Britain, and to a great extent is mountainous, its moun- tain tops, covered with heather, and dotted with hundreds of thousands of small sheep, is grand, majestic and picturesque in the extreme ; and indeed, I may say that there are but few places or parts of the united kingdom which can favorably compare with the rich and prolific soil that lies between Edinburgh, Steriing, and away towards Balloch on Loch-lomond, land, I was creditably informed, that cannot be excelled for its yield of the product of agriculture. To me, Scotia is certainly to be much admired for its vast wild mountain scenery, perfectly treeless, but when covered with the blooming heather as with a purple mantle, it lends it a charm but seldom if ever witnessed in any other country that I have visited. And when the approaching storms begin to gather, when the lowering clouds begin to nestle on the mountain tops, when the thousands of small sheep in conse- quence begin to gather into their respective folds, under the adroit management of their shepherds and sagacious dogs, and amid the roaring of the wind and the pitiless rain, the claps of thunder and much dreaded forked lightning, the scene ». >J4 O'er the Atlantic changes from that delightful charm to that of the most awfully grand ; but I am digressing in speaking of the country I must not forget its people, who have so much to admire and be proud of. The Scotch, as I remarked in my letter on the termination of our tour thrtiugh Wales, are of the Celtic or Keltic race. A people endowed with much courage, accustomed to great hardships, physically and otherwise, and are thrifty, indus- tnousand frugal in their habits, patriotic and loyal, becoming intelligent and well informed through not being backward in study, availing themselves ot the teachings of the excellent schools with which the country abounds, hence why we find among the Scots in this country such a well informed class of people. As a people, both at home and abroad, I have had frequent opportu- nities of judging their characteristics, and am pleased to remark that I have always found them honest, truthful and -.pright, warm in their friend- ship, and good law abiding citizens. O'er the Atlantic. 25s :harm to that am digressing it not forget its idmire and be ly letter on the 'ales, are of the endowed with eat hardships, thrifty, indus- iotic and loyal, >rmed through ng themselves schools with why we find ' such a well eople, both at uent opportu- itics, and am 'S found them n their friend- LETTER XXVIII. ENGLAND AGAIN. Leaving Glasgow by a different route to tliat we arrived by, we on a fine morning in Septem- ber, took the 10 A. M. train on the Caledonia Railroad for Liverpool,— Of which place I shall give but a brief description, for its history is so well known in America, commercially and otherwise, from its almost every day coPMnunications with New York ; ar.d setting aside its vast and magnifi- cent line of docks for the accommodation of shipping, I may say that there is nothing of much interest to be seen by the traveler. The Liverpool docks are very many, among which I may name a few, viz: The Victoria, Albert, Princess, Waterloo, Clarence, Bi unswick, Bramley-moore, Nelson, Trafalgar, St. George and Salthouse, all of which are said to be the finest and most substantial in the world. They extend in a direct line for a distance of eight miles, and are constructed of massive hewn stone, enclosed within lofty walls, which have wide ♦' ^ *«• O'er the Atlantic. entrance gates, and have accommodation within these walls for wares and merchandise in lofty fire proof storehouses on a very extensive scale. There are also very extensive and similarly constructed docks at Birkenhead, directly oppo- site Liverpool, a place rapidly increasing in size and population, which will no doubt in the course of time become a second Liverpool. Liverpool can also boast of a few very fine public buildings. First is the St. George's Hall, the most magnificent building of the whole; it resembles very much the Church of the Made- line, at Paris, having massive Corinthian columns and broad flights of stone steps around the entire building, and it is the only structure of note that has been erected in the town, on a site where it can be viewed to advantage. Next in style of architecture are the Exchange, General Post Office and Custom House, and lastly, the Sailors' Home, quite an imposing structure and a blessing to the often too good natured Tar wherein he is perfectly safe from thfe land sharks wh, > generally infest large sea ports. " A friend in need is a friend indeed," for such can be truly said of the Liver- ,ol Sailors' Home, wherein the venturesome and frequently victimized mariner can find shelter and protection, with the free use of books and nautical instruments to occupy his leisure hours and improve his mind. I must now, for the time has at last arrived for us to bid the " Mother Country" a long farewell, and once more I will thei the chara( especially opportunit Indeed, an well know fluous on I them. On the board th( Captain B and stean against a increased wrong po The ne: into the I; ing a goo way, and the good the very York to t on her t having t Glad we handkerc Captain i comfort £ amusem( and rou£ O'er the Atlantic. 257 ition within ise in lofty snsive scale, id similarly ectly oppo- sing in size ubt in the •pool. V very fine )rge's Hall, ; whole; it the Made- in columns iround the ructure of n, on a site Next in e, General lastly, the icture and ured Tar, md sharks " A friend n be truly herein the i mariner e free use ccupy his ved for us well, and once more tread the decks of an ocean steamer. . 1 will theretore omit speaking of England and the characteristics of the people generally, especially as my readers have had frequent opportunities of judging of them for themselves. Indeed, an Englishman and a Frenchman are so well known to the world that it would be super- Jluous on my part to attempt to describe cither of them. On the 12th of September we embarked on board the royal mail steamship "Peruvian," Captain Ballantine, for Quebec via Londonderry, and steamed out of the Mersey late at night against a strong breeze of wind, which soon increased to a gale, and that from precisely the wrong point of the compass. The next day, when nearing Moville, and close into the Irish coast, we were fortunate in obtain- ing a good sight of the renowned Giant's Cause- way, and had the pleasure of passing close to the good ship " Hibernia," of the anchor line, the very ship that brought us safely from New York to the Emerald Isle. She was then en, route on her trip from New York to Glasgow, after having touched at Derry to land passengers. Glad were we to me-t her, and to wave our handkerchiefs to the > ry gentlemanly and social Captain and his officers, who done so much for our comfort and catered so much for our pleasure and amusement, whereby the monotony of a tedious and rough sea voyage was very much lessened. asS O'er the Atlantic. .Both Captains wtTo old iicqnaintanccs and recognized cadi otiier, and passed the usual romplinicnts by dipping tlicir rcs|)ective colors in token of respect, soon alter which the heavy engines cf the " Peruvian " were stoppeti, fur we were off the village of Moville, ready to receive the nuiils and passengers from Londonderry, for which we were detained four hcu.s. Tlie mails, forwarded during tlie night from London, together witli the passengers, at last arrived, wiiich (Kcui)icd some c()nsiderai)le time in trans- ferring from the small steamer which came along side. The mail, consisting of about two hundred sacks of letters and newspapers, were put on board llrst, then the j)asscngers, none of whom were permitted to come on board before the last mail bag was given in charge of the gtncrn- ment mail agent. " Keep back urtil the mail is delivered,' was the order given lo tlie an.Kious pas- sengers huddled together on thedeck of the tender, toUowed by the hasty and griift" remark, " Make room! Make room for the mail.'" Thought I t(j myself, as I leaned over the side of the ship watching the transfer of I Icr Majesty's letter bags, Mr. Mail is " w///^- ///w/XvVw," and must be "of considerable more importance than the human race. At last Mr. Mail was safely on board, and the Messieurs passengers were allowed to leave the little craft, whereon many were about half sea sick. Then the ponderous engines were again put in motion, and the stately vessel lieadcd out toi ijalc of wind among us wh than replenij maladies extii verily believe >ea sickness is Thinking tl tiie ocean m: readers, it bei I will omit g tent myself w passage, duri end," we, on Belle Isle, wi and left of us. straits and e house keeper weather-beate to him almoi slackening sj and perhaps, ; ling with th bustling city steamed alor direct for tlit p. M. the ne> • Icebergs are seen. Sailors s windward of ihc 0\'r the AthviUc. 859 licadcd out towards the Atlantic against a strong pale of wind, and ere long many there were among us who, were inclined for anything else than replenishing the stomach. t)f all the maladies extant— if it may be so termed— 1 verily believe from what I iiave witnessed, that ^ea sickness is the worst. Thinking that an account of the passage across the ocean may not be very interesting to my readers, it being of about tiie same daily routine, I will omit giving a detailed account, and con- tent myself with stating that after a very stormy passage, during which the wind was "dead an end," we, on the 20th of the month, sighted Belle Isle, with several immense icebergs right and left of us.* At 5 v. m. we passed through the straits and exchanged signals witli the light- house keeper on that very barren, desolate and weather-beaten island, where the world must i)e to him almost a blank. On we sped, without slackening speed, leaving him in his solitude, and perhaps, as contented and happy as if ming- ling with the gay and lashionabie people in a bustling city of the world. That night we steamed along the coast of Labrador, heading direct for the Gulf of St. Lawrence, and at 10 p. M. the next day we were in smooth water, • Icebergs are known to be near long before they are seen. Sailors say they smell them, especially when to windward of ihe ship— a cold air is easily felt. ,-;1{ t/ ». 260 O'er the Atlantic. off the Island of Antacosta in the gulf. Quite a treat to all after the severe weather we had encountered throughout, and the occasion was rendered the more pleasing when evening came, in witnessing that beautiful phenomenon the northern light or aurora borealis, which so fre- quently adorn those latitudes, and which were of the brightest and most beautiful description. We had a most pleasant time steaming up the gulf, but on our arrival in the river St. Law- rence we were detained off Father Point, where the pilot came on board, for five hours, owing to an accident to some part of the machinery, which at last being repaired, we proceeded at a rapid speed up the beautiful river, the scenery on which, and that optical illusion the mirage ahead and astern of the ship, was beautiful to' behold. On the afternoon of the 23d we were running along the Island of Orleans, a few miles below Quebec, with the citadel of the city to be seen in the distance ; and at 8 p. m. the " Peruvian" got into her dock, making the passage from Liver- pool under the most unfavorable circumstances in eleven days, of which the following is her log, giving the latitude and longitude, and distance run each day : aUi««MMI t, ^ Atlantic. >sta in the gulf. Quite a severe weather we had t, and the occasion was ling when evening came, LUtiful phenomenon the a borealis, which so fre- tudes, and which were of eautiful description. It time steaming up the il in the river St. Law- off Father Point, where for five Jiours, owing to of the machinery, which 'e proceeded at a rapid river, the scenery on 1 illusion the mirage, ship, was beautiful to e 23d we were running ans, a few miles below 3f the city to be seen in M. the " Peruvian" got e passage from Liver- avorable circumstances he following is her log, ongitude, and distance O'er the Atlantic. 261 Date ' Lat. \ Lon. Miles. * Remarks. i N. I W ,0 p. M. Sept. 12, o. 3 g- 3, 2 " " I3r-P Pi?' ?! " 15I " '19 411 ■• 16:56 1927 50! '• 1755 29135 461 " 18,54 1942 33 " I9i53 25,47 33 20,52 07 I 53 47 2150 17159 " i I 2249 24I65 20 Distance run. Left Liverpool. Arrived at Movillc. Blowing hard and much sea. 250 More moderate. 274 I Blowing very hard. 270 IMore moderate. 245 iWind increasing. Severe gale and head sea. More moderate— among icebergs — very cold — made Belle Isle. 250 'Calm— in the Gulf of ' St. Lawrence. Pleasant, mild weather going up St. Law- rence, many ships in company. Arrived at Quebec 7 p. M. 190 191 185 245 270 288 2658 iContrary winds whole 1 passage. The "Peruvian" is owned by the Montreal Ocean Royal Mail Steamship Company, is a large vessel of great power, and an excellent sea boat; but I must say that the officers of the ship are not of that kind which officered the « Hibernia," of the anchor line, on our passage to Europe. The latter were kind, sociable and agreeable, and the former quite the reverse, unkind, unsociable and disagreeable, the Captam a regular old salt, blunt, uncourteous and undig- nified in his manner and conversation, but a good sailor no doubt. So we left the good ship " Peruvian" without a single regret, and were f, .^ 362 OW Ihe Atlantic. quickly driven to our hotel, named the St. Loui where we were well entertained. In my next will give an account of Quebec, the passage ui the river to Montreal, &c. 0' in tl hire( the ( Cita look man O pom in c ppli to s A par inti wit disi shi] doc upi me f* •^. UlttC. O'er the Atlantic. 263 lamed the St. Louis ined. In my next bee, the passage iij LETTER XXIX. CANADA, Quebec— The next morning after we arrived in "this remarkable city, erected on a hill, we hired a caleche (carriage), and proceeded to see the city and its environs, driving first to see the Citadel, which is erected on the summit over- looking the Plains of Abram and the country lor many miles on both sides of the river. On our arrival within the massive walls and ponderous gates of bar and chain, we were taken in charge by one of the guard, then oft duty, and politely shown everything that was interesting to strangers. A delightful view is obtained trom the ram- parts of the city beneath, with its narrow and intricate streets, of the entrance to the harbor, with Point Levi and the Island of Orleans in the distance, as also of the naval and mercantile .hips at anchor, and moored alongside their docks There we stood looking directly down upon their decks, enabled to observe every move- ment made by the officers and crews under their i ni^s^ 264 O'er the Atlantic. command while performing their work. It was on that spot stood the Prince of Wales, when on a visit to Quebec some years previous, a stone having the Crown and Feathers, with the motto, " Ich Dien" over his name aad date inscribed, marlts tlie spot in commemoration of the event, and away to our riglit and near by was the steep rock or cliff where fell General Mont- gomery, during the French and English struggle for possession. An old sign, very much obliter- ated by the action of the weather, announces the fatal circumstance in a {^\\ words: "Here fell Montgomery," etc. Leaving the Citadel, we proceed to the Plains of Abram, whereon was fought the great battle so fatal to the French, and which was gained by the British at a great sacrifice, counting among their slam the brave and accomplished General Wolfe. A monument of no mean pretensions is erected on the spot where he breathed his last, just as victory crowned the day. When a boy serving my apprenticeship at sea, I made a few voyages from Wales to guebec. It was about the years 1840-41, upon which occasion I visited the Plains of Abram At that time Wolfe's monument was simply a round stone pillar of perhaps, including its base, ten feet high, inscribed, " Here died Wolfe." It had, and was then undergoing daily a great deal of abuse, caused by children and thoughtless persons throwing stones at it until at last the governm present ture whi ccssor h much d plain of for verj uccupie< from tin scarcely the wor; of the buildini last stai decay, v ous coi my reti which > way th which 1 the Fa disastri a circu edly re same t partial tens c places in the to ho all it ( O'er the Atlantic. 265 work. It was V^ales, when on :vious, a stone ■ith the motto, iate inscribed, ration of the 1 near by was general Mont- iglish struggle much obliter- announces the s: "Here fell to the Plains e great battle A'as gained by inting among ished General pretensions is ^thed his last, cnticeship at m Wales to 840-41, upon s of Abram. ras simply a ding its base, I Wolfe." It ' a great deal thoughtless 1 at last the government erected, at a considerable outlay, the present more appropriate and handsome struc- ture which, like its plain and unassuming prede- cessor has, I regret to state, ?,1 ready been very much defaced from the same cause. The vast plain of those days has undergone great change, for very little of it is left but that has been occupied by buildings of various kinds. Apart from this change, Oviebec seemed to me to have scarcely changed its appearance, unless it was for the worse. The Lower Town, in the neighborhood of the shipping, had improved none, and the buildings along Champlain street were in the last stages, with but few exceptions, of rot and decay, while the street was in a filthy and danger- ous condition. But I must away and conduct my readers to the Falls of Montmorency, to which we drove from the Plains, passing on our way through a portion of the burned district, which lies between the upper part of the city and the Falls, and which was consumed by the disastrous conflagration cf about three years ago a circumstance many of my readers will undoubt- edly recollect, especially as it occurred about the same time as that equally disastrous fire which partially devastated Portland, Maine, causing tens of thousands of the inhabitants of both places to seek shelter from the fiery element in the streets, as it spread and traveled from house to house, like the waves of the ocean, seeking all it could devour. tAm^ 266 O'er the Atlantic. i:i#^ X. fSj. An hours' drive brought us into the neighbor- hood of the Falls; but ere we could proceed to view them, the proprietor of the grounds adjoiO' ing demanded of us the usual entry fee — one quarter of a dollar each> which we paid with any-, thing but good grace. On our arrival at the sphish of water, we found that the river directly over the Falls had at one time been spanned by a suspension bridge of some importance. Portions of the pillars and some pieces of chain still remained; but a terrible tale is told of its treacher)-, which is this: A man, accompanied with his wife, seated in a b'iggy, were one day crossing the bridge \vlien, horrible to relate, the chaius suddenly gave way» and the bridge, and its living freight, were carried over the Falls and thrown headlong into the- boiling cauldron below, and scrange to say, not a vestige of the remains of man, woman or horse nor carriage were ever found. Before going to see the Falls of Montmorency, ask yourself, have I seen those of Niagara ? If in the affirmative, don't go. If in the negative, go. For the line of comparison is so great that Montmorency, although higher — being 250 feet high — dwindles into insignificance when seen by those who have witnessed Niagara. The writer had not seen the latter, but after having done so, he almost lost all recoH^ction of the beauty and grandeur of the \ rme;. Retracing our way back to Q^'f' ec, we could not but I tion of t everythi and the Befon visited s walls, a city's hi of my r Oueb was the lation divided Lower ' 1629 by and wa when Abram, Frencii to Grea The rr.ent e and M montim ful, bui appears erly stc destroy river ai The around f/'Mb. O'er the Atlantic. 267; e nelghbor- i proceed to inds adjoin- :y fee — one id with any- Jr, we found > had at one 1 bridge of pillars and led ; but u hich is this: seated in a "idge \viien, r ga\e way, I'ere carried ig into the- say, not ai an or horse ntmorency, iagara ? If e negative, 1 great that ig 250 feet len seen by The writer ig done so, beauty and :, we could not but recognize the similarity in the construc- tion of the dwellings with those of France, and everything armrnd' them was a la Johnny Crapran, and the inliabitants speak a mongrel Frencii. Before taking mtr d'cpnirture for Montreal wc visited several places of interest within the city walls, a brief account of whachy as also of the city's history, may not be unintcreiiting to many of my readers. Quebec at one time, ;ind indeed but ireceutly, was the capital of the Canadas, and has a popu- lation of probably 50,000 inhabitants It is divided into two parts, known as the Upper andl Lower Towns. It was taken from the French im 1629 by the British, but restored to them in 1632,, and was again captured by the British in 1759- when Wolfe commanded on the Plains of Abram, by which victory the city, with all the Frencli possessions in North America, were ceded to Great Britain at the peace of 1763. The Public Gardens, where stands a monu- rr.ent erected in 1827 to the memory of Wolfe and Montcalm, is in the Upper Town. The monument in its early days was no doubt beauti- ful, but now has a somewhat weather beaten appearance. From Durham Terrace, where form- erly stood the old castle of St. Louis, which was destroyed by fire in 1834, a splendid view of the river and Lower Town can be obtained. The Place d' Armes is an open piece of ground around which the old chateau of St. Lous, the 9."m^ a68 O'er the Atlantic. Government offices, the English Cathedral and the Court House arc located. The line of fortifications enclosing the Citadel and the Upper Town is nearly three miles in length, mounted with very heavy guns, mostly 48 pounders. There are five gates to the city named Prcscott, Palace, Hope, St. Louis and St. John, and fronting the Plains of Abrain are four Martello Towers, to impede the advance of an enemy from that direction. There are four Catholic Churches in tlie city viz : The Roman Catholic CatTiedral, which con- tains some fine paintings by the old masters, the St. Patrick's Cathedral, St. Rock's Church and the Church of Notre Dame Des Victores The latter is one of tlic oldest buildings in the city, but none of them have any pretensions to architectural beauty; as alsoa great manv Protes- tant Churches, of which the English Cathedral is the handsomest and will seat about 4000 per- sons ; there are besides very many public build- ings, which include the Barracks, General Hos- pital, Quebec University, the Jail, Marine Hospital and City Hall or Court House. There are a great many sights to be seen in and around Quebec, but it would occupy several days to do m\ but being while there almost I may say in the neighborhood of home, we were anxious to get away, so had to forego the further pleasure of rambling about, and take passage in the beautiful and fast river steamboat, " Quebec," at P n n SI I s r I c I I 1 Cathedral and )sing the Citadel y three miles in vy guns, mostly ates to the city, St. Louis and iS of Abram arc I the advance of ches in the city, iral, which con- old masters, the k's Church and Des Victores. )uildings in the pretensions to It many Protes- ?lish Cathedral ibout 4000 per- ly public build- '; General Hos- tlarine Hospital to be seen in occupy several there almost I fiome, we were ego the further :ake passage in oat, " Quebec," O'er the Atlantic. 269 at 6 I'. M. oil tiic next day after our arrival, and proceeded up the river to Montreal. The accom- modations on this truly elegant boat were mag- nificent, and the charges, whicii included fare, supper and stateroom, very moderate indeed. At 6 A. M. the next morning, the long V'ictoria Bridge across the river at Montreal, appeared in sight, and soon afterwards the city,' which ^ye reached about 6:30. We were driven to the St. Lawrence Hall, which we made our lieadquarters during our stay there. The trip from Quebec being made during the night, prevented us from making notes to remark upon the score of towns and villagt^ which arc situated along the banks of the river, as also of the islands, rapids and beautiful scenery, which I was informed are very much to be admired. t>-m^. 270 C'er the Atlantic. liii T.ETTER XXX. CANADA, CONTINUKi). MoN,RKA...-Montreal is the lar^rest ..nd most populous city in Canada, bounded on o^e side by »>c nver Ottawa, and on tl.e other bv the si Uw^n^ and in connection with ste^u^^el and Brid . V TT '^' ^^"^"^^•■-i''^' .netropolisof writish .North America. It was rounded in ,642, and for a lon^^ time bore t,, „ame of Ville Marie. In ,763 the or an .,;';? ^'^^^n^ed by a wall, a ditch, ort ana atadel, aad the French made it tlic '■eadqiarte: s of their army. hafe^In'"""' f '"'^"'''■^' ^"'^'■P'-i^e and labor Jme done much to enlarge and beautify the old ow"i"r:;';h'' ^""^' ^^^-^^^^ housesin?„ar' ow streets have succumbed to those of more modern structure and architectural beauty and to-day w.th Mou,>t Royal i„ the back g'^^;und covered with elegant villas. I must sayXit' make- a beautiful appearance. The quay wall for the accommodation of sliippi built c sailing receiv the v( in the I w place; city, s pleasi As attent impoi and 1 mark office 4,000 On erect( aijid ^ sve.ry Ov Isuii'ld) Notr donb on th It secoi stud( prisii and :uemmmmsa3mmMa i/ •^ O't'f the Atlantic. ^«>i St find most one side by by the St. teanier and etropolisof Jong- time 1763 the of arms, at ill, a ditch, iide it the and labor ify the old s and nar- - o^ more ^uiy; and c ground, ay that it Jation of shipping is upwards of a mile in length, and is built of excellent stone, where ocean steamers and sailing vessels of large burthen, discharge and receive freight, and at tiiat point terminated the voyage of the "Peruvian," reaching there in the evening of the day of our arrival. I will now proceed to give an account of the places we visited during our short stay in the city, and what we saw that was interesting and pleasing to the sight. As we landed from tlie floating palace our attention was soon attracted to the fine and imposing buildings fronting us— the Market and Town Hall, the lower floor of which is the market place, and the upper is occupied as city offices and a large concert iiall, which will seat 4,000 persons. On Jacques Cartier Square is a monument erected to the memory of Admiral LoM Nels«m, apd ^ little way 19 the left is the Court House, ii ye.ry $pe buiidiijig. vOo.the Place d' Armes are some very elegant buiiliiiJog^, among whic^^ is the Cathedral of Notre Darae^ wbich will hold ,10,009 people— ny donbt the largest church, as it is claimed to be, on the American continent. It struck me very much that the place was a second Brooklyn, for the whole neighborhood is studded witii churches of various sects, com- prising Roman Catholic, Presbyterian, Methodist and a host of others— not even omitting that r ti a. , 272 O'ct the Atlantic. peculiar sect ol which Hrother Hrigham is llic Apostolic General. Hut c.f all those wc entered I found that of the Jesuits to be the most imposing, and as to the interior, it i.s finished in the most elaborate style with frescoes of inci dents in the lives of our Saviour and his Apostles. This church, no doubt, as the Cathedral of Notre Uame is the largest, is the finest and most elabo- rate of all churches in North America. While being driven from place to place, our attention was called to a very unassuming looking dwelling, wherein we were informed was domi- ciled the once notorious but now almost forgotten Jefferson Davis, ex-President of the once Con- federate States of America. How glad I would have been to have seen the man himself; but in that we were unfortu .rUe. The individual who battled for year:, vi n purpose but that of dnm- tation and ruin ^ as not to be seen. A few Hi tks about the great Victoria Bridge e'er I take my leave of Montreal, and I will accompany the reader farther up the river St. Lawrence. The bridge is a wonderful structure, on the tubular principle, resting upon twenty-four piers, is a mile and a quarter long, and over it is the great line of traffic with the United States. It cost upwards of $7,000,000, and war. built by Mr. James Hodges, under the direction of that cele- brated Engineer, Mr. Robert Stevei:son. After parting with my better half, who was t^i ». -» r Hrigham is llic lliosc \vc entered to be the most r, it ih linislierl in frescoes of Inci- nnd his Apostles. ithedral of Notre t and most elabo- nicrica. ice to place, (Hir assnming looking ormcd was domi- almost forgotten »f the once Con- o\v glad I would n himself; but in : individual who but that of defas- 1. ; Victoria Bridge treal, and I will up the river St. structure, on the wenty-four piers, nd over it is the nited States. It war. built by Mr. ion of that cele- !vei:son. ■ half, who was r • '-■"- -"iJ—iTi- " ' " ' • -"-' '^^ "—'-'--'■■ If"'' Mrrfin*«>iVi-«*--'J- "■■■ \-, ^, m Va ^}. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I 2.0 140 m ;' 1.25 II U III 1.6 * < 6" ► Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 873-4503 «♦ CIHM/ICMH Collection de microfiches. Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions / Institut Canadian de microreproductlons historiques O'er the Atlantic. 273 going to take rail direct for New York, and bidding adieu io an old companion du voyage, a Mr. Dunn, of Manchester, England, (as good a soul as ever crossed tlie Atlantic), who had come to Montreal in connection with his busi- ness, as master machinist, I took passage on board the steamer "Kingston" for Toronto, in company with Lieut. Whittaker, of Her Majesty's S3d Regiment,* and a Mr. Wolfe, of London, England, also fellow passengers, per " Peruvian," and proceeded up the river, avoiding the turbulent rapids by passing through canals erected at an immense expense. We soon arrived at the village of Lachine, below which is the swift and turbulent rapids, after a short stay, proceeded on our way; and although it was the latter part of September, it was cold and cheerless enough in the country we passed through for January — a terrible cold country to live in, no doubt, especially in mid- winter. On our way we passed through the following canals, so as to avoid the various rapids : Lachine, Cedars, Beauharnois, Cornwall, Farren's Point, Rapid Piatt, Point Iroquois and Gallop, in all about fifty miles long. A very tedious time we had while steaming at a remarkably slow speed through the narrow water bed and intricate *This young gentleman was killed in Quebec by the brother of a young lady,' who he had, it was said, seduced. 274 O'er the Atlantic. locks ; bul after getting through them, we were delighted with the scenery whicii the beautiful river afforded us the next day. The first place of any note the steamer stopped at was Prescott, opposite which, on the " Yankee side" of the river, as I heard my fellow passen- gers say, is Ogdensburgh, a very flourishing town, and of far more importance than its neigh- bor Prescott. It has of late become better known as the point from which the Fenians have attempted frequent raids on the British Posses- sions. Prescott, on the Canadian side, is a small town of about 3,000 inhabitants; and, in my opinion, is one of the last places that I can think of that I would like to reside in. A more miser- able, dilapidated looking place is but seldom seen. The old Windmill near the town is the place wherein the '• Patriots" under Von Sultz, a Polish exile, established themselves in 1837, but from which they were driven with severe loss. A couple of hours after leaving Prescott we were steaming among the " Thousand Islands," which are the wonders of the St. Lawrence. A thousand is no name for them, for I was told by tlie Captain of the steamer, (by the way, a very agreeable and sr ' man), that there are very near double th: ' nber. A most beautiful sight are those islands of various sizes, viewed as the stear,:er wends her way through the chan- nels which separate one from the other, the pic- turesq erecte and s pilot. Imr we w afterw where suffici shall K» proce by ar dale, glad short It and wher with exhil Ki centi v/ho of iti A as it are I imm ably laid jh them, wc were licii the beautiful e steamer stopped 1, on the " Yankee ny fellow passen- very flourishing ice than its neigh- ome better known le Fenians have le British Posses- side, is a small [Its ; and, in my s that I can think I. A more miser- e is but seldom the town is the ider Von Sultz, a ;lves in 1837, but ith severe loss, nng Prescott we lousand Islands," 5t. Lawrence. A for I was told by ' the way, a very at there are very most beautiful aus sizes, viewed hrough the chan- he other, the pic- O'er the Atlantic. 275 turesque Martello towers and light houses erected on several, give them an additional charm, and serve as landmarks to the ever watchful pilot. Immediately after passing through the islands we were on Lake Ontario, and the boat soon afterwards was alongside her wharf at Kingston, where we stayed two hours, affording me sufficient time to visit a few places, of which you shall read in my next. Kingston.— Immediately on my arrival here I proceeded to the British American Hotel, kept by an old friend, M. B. White, late of Carbon- dale. Pa., who was taken by surprise, but very glad to see me, and done all he could to make my short stay pleasant and agreeable. It was Agricultural Fair week in Kingston, and my friend drove me out to the grounds whereon it was held. It seemed to be conducted with much spirit and enterprise, and the stock on exhibition was worth seeing. Kingston was founded by the French just a century before the British came into possession, v/ho changed its name from Fort Frotenac to that of its present title. A very pretty little town is Kingston, situate as it is on the margin of the great lake. There are but few if any places on the banks of that immense sheet of water that can compare favor- ably with it. It is delightfully situated, well laid out, is one of the most important military 276 O'er the Atlantic posts in Canada, and has a populatiun of about i2,ooo inhabitants. I spent a pleasant time in the company of my friend, who introduced me to several of his acquaintances, among whom was a distinguished member rf the Canadian Government, Sir. J. A. MacDonald, a very plain and unassuming gentle- man, who was pleased to make my acquaintance, and treated me with much courtesy and respect. The boat was to leave Kingston at 6 p. m., and I had much difficulty in tearing myself away from my old friend, who was very desirous to have me stay with him a week, but I was anxious to get home to my family, r,o thanking him for his kind attention and promising to pay him another visit during the ensuing summer,* I took my leave and embarked on board the steamer just as she was on the point of leaving. That night we steamed over the beautiful lake, an ocean in itself, with scarcely an air of wind or a ripple to mar our progress, and the next day we arrived at Toronto. — This is a quite a city, it was form- erly called Little York. In fifty years its popu- lation has increased from 1,000 to 60,060, and at that rate of increase, its population in a few years will be second to none in the British Provinces. * Wr. White sold out bcrore the " ensuing summer " and returned to Carbondale, TheC city, wh navigati itself is im porta several 1 church ( of an E on cond informc /. e. I forty vi few as ' Leav ilton t( hours, view ti Suspen marvel Fror thence nectinj Scrant that af Pittstc arriva' ment < had tr and h< uiun of about ^mpany of my several of his I distinguished aent, Sir. J. A. uiming gentle- acquaintance, sy and respect, at 6 p. M., and myself away ry desirous to I was anxious inghim for his y him another ' took my leave ler just as she rhat night we an ocean in or a ripple tt> lay we arrived y, it was form- ears its popu- o 60,060, and ition in a few n the British ing summer " and rl O'er the Atlanftc. 277 The Grand Trunk Railway passes through the city, which adds much, coupled witli its lake navigation, to its commerce. The former in itself is a connecting link with every place of importance in the New Dominion. There are several fine buildings there, among which is the church of the Holy Trinity, erected at the expense of an English gentleman at an immense outlay, on condition of the free use of seats ; and I was informed that the main street is forty miles long, i. e. I suppose it reaches into the country for forty miles, with dwellings along the route as few as "angels visits." Leaving Toronto I proceeded by rail via Ham- ilton to Niagara Falls, where I spent only two hours, which scarcely gave me sufficient time to view the world renowned P^iUs, and the great Suspension Bridge, which at on.e time was the marvel of the age. From Niagara I took the cars for Buffalo, thence over the Erie road for Great Bend, con- necting there with the D. L. & W. R. R. for Scranton, which I reached the next morning, and that afternoon arrived at my residence in West Pittston, where there was much joy at my safe arrival home. I found my family in the enjoy- ment of good health, and eager to know all that had transpired during an absence of four months, and here ends my voyage to Europe ! 278 O'tr the Atlantic. CONCLUDING REMARKS. Perhaps my readers would be pleased to have my opinion upon Europe generally, or in other words draw a line of comparison between the old and new world. England and the other countries that I visited are as much ahead of America in some instances as the latter is of them in others. At present we ^ lack the permanency and stability which greets the eye of the American when in Europe, for instance, buildings, bridges, railroads and other structures, the handiwork of man, are con- structed as if to last for ages untold ; but in America how different, we are a "fast people," fast in all our doings, constructing and erecting in a few months that which would take double, nay treble the time on the other side of the Atlantic ; we build for the present and not for the future, also, the American says, " time is money, labor is ^expensive," and he is in a hurry to realize from the investment, a large per centage, for the principal from which it is derived is not going to last long. With the European it is otherwise, '.mic IS cheap, '<■ the dur antee c centage therefo a dolla the Mo and du the va! has be( tion to So ; existec youth nent i other But Eurof nienci to rer travel steam when venti' whicl gerc trave "lug alwa he h RKS. (leased to have ly, or in other 1 between the s that I visited iome instances At present we • which greets I Europe, for ids and other fian, are con* ntold ; but in " fast people," nd erecting in ce double, nay the Atlantic ; for the future, loney, labor is o realize from itage, for the s not going to is otherwise, O'er the Atlantic. 279 •imc is uu consideration, not because labor is cheap, acting as an apology for time, but because the durability of the investment is a sure guar- antee of a handsome return, at a moderate per rentage ere the principal crumbles to decay; therefore in my opinion, to be a "cent wise and a dollar foolish" is poor policy. Let us emulate the Mother country in the works of permanency and durability, and our capatalists will soon find the vast benefits to be derived from that which has been well done, besides being a great protec- tion to life and capital. So let us hope that when our country has existed as a nation fcjr centurks, for it is in its youth as yet, that it will be as thorough and perma- nent in every respect, if not more so, than any other country on the globe. But again, America can crow louder than Europe, in catering for the comfort and conve- nience of her people ; for as I have had occasion to remark during xxiy voyage, our hotel, saloon and traveling system is a century ahead of theirs, our steamboats and railway cars are moving palaces when compared to the dirty, confined and badly ventilated little river and channel steamboats which ply in British waters, and the hornd passen- ger cars (cattle boxes I may almost say), which traverse British railways, then their baggage or " luggage" system is abominable, the traveler is always " in a sweat" about his trunks, for which he has received no checks, and which he is con- aSo O'er the Atlantic. tinnally looking and inquiring for on his arrival at statif)ns where he has to change carriages. Picture in your imaginntion the foreigner, per- haps unable to speak the language, endeavoring to single out his baggage, followed by half dozen begging railway porters, who condescend to remove it for him in consideration of back- scesh, and who, after the traveler has taken his seat in the carriage, walk up to the carriage door, makes a rustic bow by tugging at the hair of his head, and remarking with a winning smile and a grin, " Ma-ster, you'l find your low- gage zur on top of saventh or aighth carrage forard, yez zur," followed by another tug, smile and a grin, then is handed him a piece of coin which he slyly accepts with a ''thankee' zur." So arc you pestered throughout your journey, always in clmrge and responsible for your own baggage, for which you have to pay fleecing porters in the employ of the company, or run the risk of having it left behind. There is a vast difference in the style of living between Europeans and Americans generally, which in part may be attributed to our Republi- can Institutions, and to the amount paid for labor, for the United States classes far ahead of all Europe in giving compensation for labor ; for instance, a good artisan will obtain here from three to five dollars per day, while in Great Britain, a person possessing the same ability will receive from three shillings and sixpence to seven shill fron Swii low( in c n the styl of 1 less the; leai cla; &c. / wit anc wit •be sui in^ tal vei ph fai tal tal T( en '_ - For on his arrival hange carriages, c foreigner, per- igc, endeavoring silovved by half who condescend eration of back- tr has taken his to the carriage ;ging at the hair tvith a winning '1 find your low- aighth carrage lother tug, smile a piece of coin . ''thankee' ztir." t your journey, Ic for your own to pay fleecing ompany, or run 2 style of living leans generally, to our Republi- mount paid for es far ahead of jn for labor ; for btain here from while in Great lame ability will ixpence to seven O'er the Atlantic. -iSi shillings and sixpence per day,* and in France from three to fivo francs per day. In Ocrmany, Switzerland and Russia the average is inucli lower, indeed, I may say, ^-'most a mere pittance in comparison even with France. Having obtained the daily necessaries of life, the Europeans, /. e. the laboring class, leave the style of dress, the extreme of fashion, to persons of wealth and position, and are content with a less unpretending style, indeed, I may say, that they generally adopt the primitive costumes, leaving even an attempt at fivshion to the middle classes, or men and women in business, clerks, &c., who put it on very sparingly. A servant girl who would ape her mistress with white satin bonnet trimmed with flowers, and a heap of hair as large as a peck measure, with veil, parasol and flounced dress, would ■ be laughed and jeered at in the street for pre- suming to ape her betters. They are expected invariably to dress befitting their station in life. Then so far as dieting is concerned, in par- taking of the necessaries to sustain life, they are very frugal, seldom or ever partaking but the plainest of food and no variety. Very simple fare indeed is that generally made use of. It takes but very little to sustain life if we but par. take of that only which is beneficial to health. To be temperate in all things is the true phi- • Laborers get from los. to 15s. per week, and farm labor- ers less than that even. 28i O'er the Atlantic, losophy of living. Would I could sny as miu-li (^r Amcriciins, but I cannot. There is more truth than fiction in the remark, " \Vc eat fast, drink fast, work fast and die fast." Tliat wc are degenerating, physically, both I male ^-ind female, especially the latter, there is [but lit,tle doubt, who need more— shall I say .exercise .' Then would they come forth with the iblpptp 9f hefijith mantling their cheeks, and a ifirrp step, depqtipg sound health, comfort and ihvppipess.— In Eurr^pe a ypung lady immedi- Htely after njarri^ige is anxJQus.tc;) enter upon her household duties, so that she may show how skill- ful she is in the various duties .fljppertaining to the kitchen and laundry. To go ;iind board in a hotel or elsewhere, would be considered by a married couple the greatest of absurdities. fi must now draw these remarks to a close, and jl . tr^t that I have said nothing herein to dis- jpleascT^py of my fair readers, but trust the facts ifti^rrated ,jv;i.ll be accepted in the spirit they are ^\\Hifi—/,or/tl{eir benefit. .As littl ouching Kuropt', remarks [uturu (ir There It) Eutof icDnomi fore conj more pa To ni which it it seemc more tl underta up'theii it frequi uceomji inude, they asi moistei tliey wf days of of imir could sfiy as miicli rhcrc is more truth \Vc eat fast, drink , physically, both the latter, there is more— shall I say r»me forth with the eir cheeks, and a ilth, comfort and ing lady immedi- t9 enter upon her fiyshowhowskill- :s .ii(P,pertaining to 1 go #nd board in i considered by a absurdities. rks to a close, and ing herein to dis- but trust the facts he spirit they are Appendix. TO TOLKIsrs AM) OTIIKRS. As little or nothinK has bet-n said in the preceding pages ouching the expense and manner of traveling to and in Kurope, I would respectfully submit the following pertinent remarks to the consideration of those who may at some (mure time have occasion to visit that country : There are but few, in proportion of the thousands who go 10 Europe vearly from this country, who have not to study iconomv (more or less), during the journey. I shall there- fore confine myself in the few remarks I am about to make, more particularly to that subject. To make a voyage to Europe in these days is not that which it was twenty years ago and upwards. In those days it seemed as quite .iui undertaking, and it took a person of more than ordinary aerve when not compelled to go to undertake it. Months we&e occupied by persons in making uptheir minds; to; undertake ;a long and perilous voyage, for it frequenlly took as many weeks .as it now takes days to ac«omiilish;the passage. Very extqn^iv^ preparations were niuae, friends and acquaintances talked of M, as if they u«i«>ne.ver to ;meet again, and when the time c^n>e to de par J they assembled around the voyager to bid him fare^vell. .wit;J moistened eyes and hearts too full for utterance, as thought they were committing his body to the deep ; but now m the days of steamships, of the most approved build, with engines of immense power, which, when once put in motion m tho ■V, 284 Appendix. bay of New York, novcr cease working* until (he ship', arrival in an European port. Indeed, a voyage to and from Europe, has ceased to be thought of as anything extraordinary outside the dailv occurrences ,f life. A person makes up his mind to-dav and is gone to-morro^.f Thousands unon thousands of our people yearly, from the millionaire and merchant prince, to the laboring man, cross the great Atlantic highway without scarcely giving it a thought. All the world and their wives go, some on business, others on pleasure, and many to vi.it relatives and friends ; but to the point. Having made up your mind to go, it is not necessary you Should make any preparation outside of setting "your bouse in order." /. ,. if you are in business, arrange that so much as possible to your satisfaction, insure your life, and lastly, ,f you have anything to leave, make your will, for not- withstanding the short time it takes to go and come, there is still more or less danger attached to the voyage, of which we have had of late, I am sorry to say, abundant evidence \etw,thal.weare as liable and are frequently called awav from off terra firma as suddenly as those who make the ocean their temporary home. A small trunk or valise. large enough to contain an extra suit of clothes, a Scotch cap, half a dozen shirts, half a dozen pair of socks, with the necessary under garments, a pair of slippers, and yonr toilet articles, together with a shawl or overcoat on your arm IS all you need, for when you arrive in Europe you caft purchase clothing of very superior quality for at least half the price you can here. There is no doubt of this even with our currency at par. I advise from experience, for purchase * There are exceptions, but they are very rare. Nieht and day are they kept going until arrival of the ship in porl. tA friend of the author's left the port of New York uDon ' you wi IndifTe As expen! at 1. 15 sum \ person able n fro,* h supply which York, respec sierlin investi from a him fri balanc You room ( cmbar you ar Strang board, almosi being the shi are on love 1 comes and fr< sailor, *P< class n gentle steera, but th Appendix. ^85 ■orking* until (he ship's -uropc, has ceased to be nary outside the dailv kes up Ills mind to-cl:iv Is unon thousands of our and merchant prince, to \tlantic highway without le world and their wives asure, and many to visit nt. ', it is not necessary you tsidc of setting "youi Jusiness, arrange that so on, insure your life, and , make your will, for noi- to go and come, there is the voyage, of which we iay, abundant evidence 2 frequently called away > those who make the ill trunk or valise, large clothes, a Scotch cap, lair of socks, with the of slippers, and your )r overcoat on your arm, i'e in Europe you caft quality for at least half doubt of this even with xperience, for purchase ' ; very rare. Night and of the ship in port. ort of New York upon ; of hours after making you will when you get there, so be content with a small and indifierent wardrobe when starting. , As regards the amount of money necessary to pay the expenses of, say a three months trip, with gold as it is now, at 1. 15, I would estimate the amount at $500 in gold, which sum would be amply sufficient to enable any respectable person to make the trip we did in a pleasant and comfort- able manner, which would include cabin passage to and fio,* hotels, railway fares, incidental expenses, and a decent supply of necessary articles of clothing and souvenirs, with which sum procure a letter of credit of Brown Bros., New York, on Brown, Shipley & Co., of London, or any other respectable house ol the kind, for its equivalent in pounds sterling, the safest and best, as well as most convenient investment a traveler can make, for it entitles him to draw from any bank such sums as he actually requires to carry him from place to place, and at the same time the amount or lialances in the banker's hands is accruing interest. Your passage money being paid, you are assigned a state room or berth on board the steamer, and you are ready to embark. The hour having arrived for you to be on bgard, you are there, where perhaps every face you encounter is a stranger to you, and you feel amid the din and bustle on board, where everything at the time is confusion, that you :ilmost repent the steps you have taken. The moorings are being cast off, the pilot is in charge, and in a few minutes the ship is steaming down the bay, and in as many hours you are on the blue Atlantic, far away from those you perhaps love better than all the world beside. Then a change comes over you. You feel depressed, heavy. You reel to and fro. Wonder what is the matter. Ah ! my " fresh water sailor," you are sea sick. Yes, very. Down you go to * Per Inman, Anchor or National line of steamers, a\\ first class and inexpensive lines, commanded by experienced and gentlemanly officers. A second cabin, intermediate or steerage passage would decrease the cost in proportion ; but the, latter I would not recommend to any person. Ir 386 Appendix. your berth, which you find with difficulty ; and there lay yourself down " more dead than alive," not caring whether you survive or not, and wishing from the bottom of your heart that you had remained on ti,m Jirma. But it is too ate, there are no back doors to run through, so you must be content, and there I leave you for perhaps two or three days. You are now three days out. You are on deck, seated not walking, for as yet you have not your " sea legs" under you. You " feel better, yes, much," and wish vou " could eat something ;" but alas, •' cannot retain anything on your stomach. There are none but your fellow passengers that sympathise with you, all of whom, perhaps, are as sick as yourself, for it is a common occurrence ; but day by day you gam strength, and with it comes back yourappetite. and by the time you are on the banks off Newfoundland, you arc perfectly well, have become acquainted with some congenial) spirits arjd reconciled to your fate. Then, when weather permits, follow* the usual games, gotten up through the kindness and courtesy of the officers, who know well how to wile away the monotony of a voyage at sea. By and by you strut up and down the quarter deck arm in arm with, perhaps, one of the gentler sex. with the dignity of a son of N eptune, forgetful of the past and hopeful of the future ihus you go along from day to day avoiding all familiarity' being simply courteous and polite to all you come in con^ tact with, till at last the ship has arrived at her port of des- tination. and all is hurry and bustle to get on shore. Not '^C^trnJ"^" !! coolly, there is time enough, for the last shall be first." You leave the ship in good time, having, while apparently loitering, satisfied yourself by inquiries made of several persons who have come on board. 6f a good, respectable second class hotel to sojourn at. by ^hich you have, notwithstanding your seeming tardiness gained timei And now that you are safely over, a choice of route from .he pom, of debarkation (if the one we took will not 11^ must mone excus and ( Britai datioi respe charg of CO to or( Wi more Tea, Lodg Breal Dinn Ad a con Th that ifficulty; and there lay 'e," not caring whether om the bottom of your ra fima. But it is too 1 througli, so you must r perhaps two or three J are on deck, seated, your " sea legs" under and wish .vou "could Jtain anything on your fellow passengers that >crhaps, are as sick as ce ; but day by day you : your appetite, and by Newfoundland, you arc d with some congeniali Then, when weather otten up through the i, who know well how ge at sea. By and by leek arm in arm with, the dignity of a son of liopeful of the future '^oiding all familiarity, all you come in con- ed at her port of des- to get on shore. Not time enough, for the ! ship in good time, satisfied yourself by have come on board, otel to sojourn at, by r seeming tardiness, choice of route from 'e took will not suit), Appendix. 287 must be left to yourself, which has to be governed by taste, money and time. But go wherever you may, there is no excuse for you putting up unless you desire it, at first-class and expensive hotels, for in Europe, especially in Great Britain, you can get very superior and select accommo- dation, with every polite attention shown you, in plenty of respectable hotels and coflfee houses for one-third the cost charged in the first-class hotels. For instance, and by way of comparison, read the following bills, both being served to order ; THE FIRST-CLASS HOTEL. (style.) Tea, 2S. 6d., supper, 2S., - - - £,0. 4s. 6d, Lodgings, - 2S. 6d. Breakfast, - - - - - - 3s. od. Dinner, -..--- 3s. 6d. to 5s. Attendance, 2s. 6d. Total per day, . . - - £,0. i6s. (xi. Without wine, which you are expected to call for (say 5s. more), a sum equal to five dollars of American gold. THE SECOND-CLASS HOTEL. (comfort.) Tea, (cold meat, ham or chops), .... Lodging, ( 'ood accommodation) Breakfast, (fish, steak, chops, or ham and eggs), - - - - ' ' - Dinner, (roast and boiled meats, with vege- tables, pastry, &c.), . . . . ^ ^ ^ Jo. IS. 6d, IS. &d. IS. 8d, es. od: Total per day, /o. 6s. 8d; Add to the latter occasionally, a trifle for attendance and a couple of glasses of ale, in all about one shilling additional: There are, howevci, houses quite as respectably conducted, that you can live at a much cheaper rate than even 6s I 288 Appendix, Sd. per day, or §1.50 of our American money.* I simply quote prices of hotels that will compare favorably with first and second-class American hotels.f In Europe, like most countries, you will find plenty "on the make," and as Americans are known to be very liberal, they are the more imposed upon. You might give, give all day and to no purpose ; but be guided by your own good judgment in that respect, When attendance is charged for in the bill, I see no necessity of giving to servants, yet they expect it, waiters especially. Cabs and omnibuses are quite an institution, and are conducted upon a system that unless you are very stupid you cannot be overcharged, carrying you for a very rca.sonable compensation to any pomt you wish to go.t I wish I could say as much of the cabs in the city of New York. Then, while on the road, travel in a third-class passenger car. You are perfectly safe and free from insult, and by domg so you save half the fare vou would pay in a secon/ class carriage, and two-thirds that you would have to pay- in a first-class carriage ; and putting aside the style, the luxury of, and riding more select, you ride a la Amcique, lacking style and conveniences onlv, traveling equally as fast as your fellow passengers who have the pleasure or privilege of paying half or two-thirds more to travel by the same train. Indeed, gentlemen of wealth, position and refinement (unaccompanied by ladies), can be seen riding daily in third-class carriages in Great Britain. The fares are Id., 2d. and 3d. per mile. In conclusion : Always look well niw-i"'".V* which, especially in London, and other large places, there are houses termed " Commercial Boarding Hotels, or small unlicensed private hotels. Such houses combine economy with the comforts of a home. Britain.'"*' °" "'" ^'°"''"^"' '^ """^l' ^''^aper than in Great ..ni The laws regulating cab hire are very strict in London and Pans, and gre as strictly observed by ihe Jehus, ;an money.* I simply are favorably with first II will find plenty " on own to be very liberal, oil might give, give all led by your own good L-ndance is charged for ;iving to servants, yet lbs and omnibuses are ed upon a system that nnot be overcharged, compensation to any Id say as much of the third-class passenger e from insult, and by 'ould pay in a secont".. ou would have to pay i aside the style, the tu ride n la Ameiique, '. traveliug equally as have the pleasure or Is more to travel by r wealth, position and ), can be seen riding iritain. The fares are on ; Always look well don, and other large ommercial Boarding hotels. Such houses ' a home. heaper than in Great very strict in London by the yehus. Appendix. 389 to your baggage, if you have any apart from yourself, for there is no system adopted like that in United States for the transportation of baggage, and if heavy to handle you will find it necessary to fee a railway porter occasionally, so as to prevent it being left behind, especially at a point where you have to change cars. And in France you have the additional trouble of submitting it to be searched thoroughly at the depot, your ticket too, where it has to go through quite a quantity of red tape, apart from which I think the baggage system preferable to that of Great Britain. And now having said all that I d?em necessary for the guidance of those contemplating a trip to Europe, I will lay my pen aside, and bid you a final adifu. THE AUTHOR. M 'H 'l If, ii iFi ',1 1 The Author's Address, DELIVERED BEFORE THE " P. C. C," ON THE OCCASION OF HIS RETURN FROM EUROPE, AND IN REPLY TO THE FOLLOWING SENTIMENT : " The health of Capt. Wbyte and lady— may their recent tour to the Old World, and their return to their family and friends, be an epoch in their lives of continued happiness and sweet reminiscences long to be remembered by them," Worthy Chief and Clansmen of the Pittston Cale- DONIA Club: I have no language sufficient t9 express myself on this occasion, for I feel somewhat deficient in that, sometimes vulgarly called gab, and in the first place for fear I may make a break down, permit me to thank you for this very kind reception. A reception as flattering as it is undeserving, for I am not aware of my having done any thing to deserve so much of your notice, and although I have not been in the habit of making speeches,/, e. speaking in public-.-I must nevertheless in return for so much kind- ness, do my endeavor to give you a brief account of my late trip to Europe, but believe me, I would rather walk a mil ; than talk a minute. The 8th of June saw me leave this country, and after a stormy passage of fourteen days I landed in Auld Ireland, a coun.'ry as green as that gem it is so often compared to ; well may it bo called the Emerald Isle for a beautiful and picturesque country \s-£rin indeed, and her people a warm hearted and generous race. I visited and passed through many of the cities and to^vns of Ireland, among which I ma pic sav ace dw hal cro \ cap sor hea had son it t< friei to V his beei vied plea was spo( yard allie ratio such once fami bye.' O lighl the I worl nolit labyi span from 'v-=-'r, Appendix, 991 ddress, HE OCCASION OF HIS EPLY TO THE ^ — may their recent to their family and ontinued happiness fiembered by them," HE PiTTSTON CALE- ifficient t9 express newhat deficient in in the first place for me to thank you for s flattering as it is 1 having done any ce, and although I eches, i. e, speaking I for so much kind- account of my late rather walk a mil ; >untry, and after a in Auld Ireland, a ften compared to ; or a beautiful and her people a warm id passed through J, among which I may name Londonderry, Belfast and Dublin, all of which pleased me very much, but to give you an account of all I saw in Ireland and elsewhere, is more of a task than I could accomplish this evening, you must therefore excuse me from dwelling at length on the beauty, industry, commerce and habits, of various places and the people, and allow mc to cross the Irish channel into old Cymru. Wales, Gwalia, land of my nativity, with its cloud- capped hills and delightful vales, the land of mirth and song, abounding with antiquities, sacred to the Briton's heart, had undergone great and many changes ; indeed, such had been the march of improvement that had it not been for some old land marks still left, I would have scarcely believed it to be the tand of my birth. Many dear relatives and old friends had gone to their long home, and but few remained to welcome him who had spent some twenty-eight years of his life in foreign lands, but those few, who, like myself, had been permitted to linger a little longer on this old planet, vied with each other to make my sojourn among them as pleasant and agreeable as possible. Oh ! how delightful it was to meet and discourse with old friends, to wander over spots where I had played in my youth, to visit the old church yard wherein lay all that was once mortal of those so nearly allied to me, and to survey with solemn thought and admi- ration the castellated ruins of Cambria's ancient fortresses- such was my enjoyment, that when the time came for me to once more bid farewell to all, and to so much that was dear and familiar to me, I could scarcely articulate the word " good bye." Leaving Wales I went into Old England, the land wherein my father first saw the light, dear to me, if only for that reason. He was born in the great city of London, now perhaps the largest city in the world, commercially it certainly is. London with its Metro- politan under ground railway, traversing through dark labyrinths beneath its ever busy and thronged streets, and spanning the great city with its three million of inhabitants, from east to west, is a marvel in itself; while such places as i^2 Appendix. the Bnimh Museum with its hordes of antiquities, VVestmin- sler Abbey with its colossal monuments of various ages National Gallery, with its beautiful pictures, the Tower with ■IS dunReons, cells and armory glittering with ancient and modern instruments of war and torture, and other places ..f much note must be seen to be appreciated. While in England I visited many of its cities and towns, lor instance the great commercial cities of Manchester Liv- erpool and Bristol, and other places, seeing all that I deemed worthy of note, and then crossed over channel to FRANCK—Landing at Dieppe. I proceeded direct to Pans the centre of Parisian life. Of France. I may trulv sav that Pans is France. Commercially it is not. for there is but ittle done m commerce, in proportion to the size and popu- li'tmn. but otherwise \ may call it France. A wonderful citv IS Pans, now claimed to be the finest city in the world, exter- nally it may be. for with its broad avenues, public drives and promenades, its public and loftv buildings of beautiful arcniteclure, white as ntarblc. some of which are gorgeous w.th the spoils of war. it certainly is not only beautiful but magnificent. I was fortunate enough to be there during the Fetes de Napoleon, a national holiday like that of our Fourth of July, upon which occasion the French people don their best apparel and go in for lots of enjoyment, and the whole city at night is brilliantly illuminated. The Champs Efysees, which is the finest of the public drives or promenades, the J'lnce de la Concorde, Place de Vendome, the Hue Rwoli, the gardens of the Tuilleries and other places, with their tens of thousands of gas lights, shaded with red and white glass globes, formed the most brilliant spectacle I ever witnessed —it was fairy land on earth. The Exposition, a decided success, is the most admirable and well arranged building that the human mind could possibly conceive for such a purpose, i. e. the interior, so well arranged is it, that the visitor cannot fail to see all that IS on exhibition, and so far as products are concerned, every civilized nation on the globe is represented there, yes, even in 1: Ain< the freel agii with the r .\< huilc is no erect can I nificc derfu Britii Wl the fi in thi the r pictu lofty ■ miles Bel the ol cottoi much antiqi many of En In ( aside round interei remarl the pe finery water i ntiquities, VVesimin. Jts of various ages ures, the Tower with ng with ancient and , and other places o*^ ed. Is cities and towns, of Manchester, Liv- ngall that I deemed lannel to ■oceedcd direct to ince, I may truly say > not, for there is but > the size and popu. A wonderful city in the world, exter. s, public drives and dings of beautiful 'hich arc gorgeous t only beautiful but l)e there during the that of our Fourth h people don their lent, and the whole he Champs Elysecs^ )r promenades, the »e Rue RivoH, the 1, with their tens of d and white glass le I ever witnessed he most admirable iman mind could t. the interior, so fail to see all that ! concerned, every ed there, yes, even Appendix. aoj in language, costume, habit and diet. For instance, in the American Rest.iurant, a beautiful placi-, a la Ameriqut, could the indomitable Yankee hear his native tongue spoken freely, dine on pork and beans, and assuage his thirst with a gin cock tail, brandy smash, mint julep, sherrv cobbler, or with any of the multifarious cooling drinks out of one of the most modern of American soda fountains. •Now a few words about the exterior of this great hidden building. So insignificant is the appearance of it, that there IS no line of comparison to be drawn between it and that erected in Hyde Park, London, in 1851, evidence of »vhich can be seen at Sydenham to-day, the finest and most mag. nificent place of the kind no doubt in the world. A won- derful monument to the indomitable will and energy of the British people ; but to my theme. While in Paris I visited places of rare antiquity, and saw the finest statuary, pictures and paintings (those around and in the Palace of the Louvre and Versailles especially), that the most talented artists or old masters ever produced ; pictures to be counted by the mile.. As they hang on the lofty walls, imagine to yourselves walking and viewing seven miles of pictures, but such is the fact at Versailles. Before bidding adieu to France, I visited ancient Rouen, the old capital of Normandy, now styled from its numerous cotton factories, the Manchester of France. I was verj- much interested with every thing I saw there, so full of antiquities is it, and in the neighborhood are the scenes of many hard fought battles waged between the hostile armies of England and France. In conclu«on of my remarks on France, I may say that aside of the magnificence and beauty of Paris, with its sur- roundings and antiquated Rouen, that I saw nothing to interest me elsewhere or on my route, Paris being as I remarked before, France. Gobbling up immense sums of the people's money to make and keep it so ; yet with all its finely and gaiety it needs much sanitary reform, it needs less water in the public fountains, of which there are thousands 2 94 Appendix, perhaps, and more in the pnhlic and private dwellings, and lastly, the able suprrintondcncc of a Hoard of Health, svich as that of New York and ilsi-whcrc ; hut I am inclined to think that ert- reformation takes place, rebellion will have done more than can be undone for gencralioiiH untold. I have occupied your attention somewhat longer than I intended, but will have to crave it for a short time longer, so as to make a few remarks respecting, SroTiAN-n.— The land which gave the majority of you birth, the land of a Hrucc, a Wallace, a Burns, and a Scott, and from which our Club takes its name. Having one line day reached Carlisle after a stay of a few days at the Wind- ermerc Lakes, the iron horse soon propelled me over the border, and steaming along at a more than rapid rate soon found myself in Melrose, there to see the old Abbey, of which Sir Walter Scott gives so fine a description in his lay of the "Last Minstrel." It is even now a magnificent specimen of Gothic architecture. Then how grand it must have been in its day, unrivalled no doubt. I must continue my journey north, " for time is on the wing.' Away the iron horse sped once moie, ganging along the banks of the "lovely Tweed," rendered so famous in the poetry of Hums, away pass princely Abbottsford, once the abode of Scotia's genius, Crcichton and Borthwick Castles, famous in the time of the ill-fated Mary, and I am soon in sight of the Firth of Forth, and ere long in Edinboro. A beautiful city indeed is the modern Athens, J except not even gay Paris, for it pleased me the most, and when I say that if circumstances would permit I would like to reside there, which in itself is sufficient to convince you of how much I was struck with its natural beauty and grandeur. While here we visited the Castle, saw Queen Mary's room wherein James VI was born, the regalia of Scotland's Kings and Queens, Holyrood Palace, Scott's and other monuments and many other places of note. I know that you would like to hear me speak of all I saw amoi Stua wi'\ roon appr \y turc! "Tw Th Tam mine! time brair Iv very Vi Rob! mcnt John Dooi Or other it, an the/i nortli Scoti Bonn the b purpi inten Appendix, 29s private dwellings, ami Hoard of Health, such ; hut I am inclined tn ce, rebellion will have ncraiioiis untold, niewhat longer than I a short time longer, so the majority of you , a Burns, and a Scott, mv?. Having one line few days at the Wind- iropclled me over the e than rapid rate soon 3e the old Abbey, of description in his lay 1 now a n)a%-nificent :n how grand it must t. I must continue my ng." Away the iron ng the banks of the 1 the poetry of Hums, the abode of Scotia's es, famous in the time sight of the Firth of 1 Athens, J except not most, and when I say would like to reside ronvincc you of how )eauty and grandeur. Queen Mary's room egalia of Scotland's e, Scott's and other note, r me speak of all I saw in Scotland, "but it can't be did," suffice it to say that among others, I visited Linlithgow, the favorite resort of the Stuarts, the field of Hannock-burn, wherein " Scots wha hae wi' Wallace bled," was in Stirling Castle, "iaw the Douglas room, and the Wallace monument on the Abbey Craig, now approaching I am glad to s.iy completion. I was in Dumbarton, smoky and busy Glasgow, and pic- turcsque Ayr, where I saw the Wallace Tower and the " Twa Brigs," and sat in the room wherein the Hard says, "The nlcht dravc on wi sangs and clatter. And ay the ale was growing better." There sat myself down gently in the old .irm chairs of Tarn O'Slianter and Souter Johnny, and drank in moderation mind, out of that old cup, the contents of which at one time, we are informed, so completely turned poor Tam's brain. I was in the immorLil Burns' native cottage, and I saw the very spot where, as he says. -" A blast o' Janwai' win, Blew hansel in on Robin." Visited Alloway Kirk, saw ;'ne grave of the father of Robin and that of Souter Johnny, the great Bard's monu- ment, a temple of classic beauty. Tarn O'Shantcr and Souter Johnny, looking as natural as life, and the Auld Brig o' Doon, whereon " The Carlin claught her by the rump. And left puir Maggie scarce a stump." On the auld Brig, recently restored, I, like thousands of others, admirers of the poet, rudely inscribed my name on it, and should either of you ever visit there you will find it on the Unlh stone which surmounts the right hand wall ganging north ; and now having satisfied myself by visiting old Scotia, I have to tell you truthfully, well may it be called Bonnie, for its scenery is grand, picturesque and sublime, the blooming heather covering the mountain tops as with a purple mantle, and that I am not at all surprised at Sandy's intense love and admiration for his bonnie Scotland. I \' left "coi . Pi read Pi "Pc Pi " an P.- "40c Pii Peel Pa read Pa "the Pa Oder Pa •ry." Sai read Pai Medi Paj Nava Pa, ously Pa, " heln E R R A r A . PaKC 17. Pri-fiice-Noif.— For "tripe," iiiul 'strlpi-." Page 34. Note— I'or "wind nlT lijrjit Low," riM.i "wind ,>|) left bow." I'aKc 3(j. [„isl lii.i; — l-„r " .omposod ol l-ccf si