^ \^i^ .^^ \T^ Tv IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) // 1.0 ^vs, m itt Bj2 moo Sf L£ 12.0 Hiotographic ^ScMices Corporation 23 WIST MAIN STRUT WnSTn,N.Y. I4SM (7(6)«72-4S03 ^r^^ CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CIHIVI/ICIVIH Collection de microfiches. Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions / Institut Canadian da microraproductions historiquas Tachnical and Bibliographic Notaa/Notaa tachniquoa at bibliographiquaa Tha inatituta haa attamptad to obtain tha baat original copy availabia for filming. Faaturaa of thia copy which may ba bibliographicaily unlqua, which may altar any of tha imagaa in tha raproductlon, or which may aigniflcantly changa tha uaual mathod of filming, ara chacitad balow. D D n D Colourad covara/ Couvartura da coulaur |~~| Covara damagad/ Couvartura andommagte Covara raatorad and/or laminatad/ Couvartura raataurte at/ou palliculAa r~| Covar titia miaaing/ La titra da couvartura manqua Colourad mapa/ Cartaa gtographiquaa an coulaur Colourad ink (i.a. othar than biua or black)/ Encra da coulaur (i.a. autra qua blaua ou noira) I I Colourad plataa and/or illuatrationa/ Planchaa at/ou illuatrationa an coulaur Bound with othar matarial/ Rail* avac d'autraa documanta Tight binding may cauaa ahadowa or diatortion along intarior margin/ La ra liura aarrte paut cauaar da I'ombra ou da la diatortion la long da la marga IntAriaura Blank laavaa addad during raatoration may appaar within tha taxt. Whanavar poaaibia, thaaa hava baan omittad from filming/ II aa paut qua cartainaa pagaa blanchaa ajouttea lora d'una raatauration apparaiaaant dana la taxta. maia, loraqua cala 4tait poaaibia, caa pagaa n'ont paa At4 filmiaa. L'Inatitut a microfilmA la maillaur axamplaira qu'il lui a AtA poaaibia da sa procurer. Laa ditaila da cat axamplaira qui aont paut-Atra uniquaa du point da vua bibliographiqua, qui pauvant modifiar una imaga raproduita, ou qui pauvant axigar una modification dana la mAthoda normala da filmaga aont indiquia ci-daaaoua. I — I Colourad pagaa/ Tha to til Pagaa da coulaur Pagaa damagad/ Pagaa andommagAaa Pagaa raatorad and/oi Pagaa raataurAaa at/ou pallicuMaa Pagaa diacolourad, atainad or foxat Pagaa dAcoiortea, tachatiaa ou piqutea Pagaa datachad/ Pagaa dAtachtea Showthroughy Tranaparanca Quality of prir QualitA inAgala da I'impraaaion Includaa aupplamantary matarii Comprand du material auppMmantaira r~~| Pagaa damagad/ r~| Pagaa raatorad and/or laminatad/ r~n Pagaa diacolourad, atainad or foxad/ rn Pagaa datachad/ r~n Showthrough/ I I Quality of print variaa/ I I Includaa aupplamantary matarial/ Tha posa ofth film! Origl bagii tha •ion, otha firat aion, or ill Thai shall TINU whic Mapi diffai antin bagir right raqui math |~~1 Only adition availabia/ D Saula Mition diaponibia Pagaa wholly or partially obacurad by arrata alipa, tiaauaa, ate, hava baan rafilmad to anaura tha baat poaaibia imaga/ Laa pagaa totalamant ou partiallamant obacurciaa par un fauillat d'arrata, una palura, ate, ont §t6 filmiaa A nouvaau da fa^on h obtanir la maillaura imaga poaaibia. Additional commanta:/ Commantairaa aupplAmantairaa: Irragular pagiratton: 471* • 477*, 471 • 534 p. Thia itam la filmad at tha reduction ratio chackad balow/ Ca document aat filmA au taux da rMuction indiquA ci-daaaoua 10X 14X 18X 22X 26X aox ! y 12X 16X aox 24X 28X 32X lire details UM du ; modifier g«r una I filmaga Tlie copy filmod hero has iieen reproduced thanks to the generosity of: Nationai Library of Canada The images appearing here are the best quality possible considering the condition and legibility of the original copy and in keeping with the filming contract specifications. Original copies In printed paper covers are filmed beginning with the front cover and ending on the last page with a printed or illustrated impres- sion, or the back cover when appropriate. All other original copies ere filmed beginning on the first page with a printed or illustrated impres- sion, and ending on the last page with e printed or illustrated impression. The last recorded frame on each microfiche shell contain the symbol '-^' (meaning "CON- TINUED"), or the symbol y (meaning "END"), whichever applies. L'exemplaire film* f ut reproduit grice k la gAnirositi de: BibiiothAque netionale du Canada Las imeges suivantes ont At* reproduites avec le plus grand soin, compte tenu de la condition at de la nettetA de l'exemplaire filmA, et en conformity avec las conditions du contrat de filmage. Les exemplaires origineux dont la couverture en papier est ImprlmAe sont fllmte en commen^ant par le premier plat et en termlnant soit par la dernlAre page qui comporte une empreinte d'impression ou d'illustratlon, soit par le second plat, salon le cas. Tous les autres exemplaires origineux sont filmAs en commenpant par la premlAre page qui comporte une empreinte d'impression ou d'illustratlon et en termlnant par la dernlAre page qui comporte une telle empreinte. Un des symboles sulvants apparattra sur la dernlAre image de cheque microfiche, selon le cas: le symbols -^ signifle "A SUIVRE", le symbols ▼ signifle "FIN". Ire ly errata »d to nt ne pelure, ipon A Maps, plates, charts, etc., may be filmed at different reduction ratios. Those too large to be entirely included in one exposure are filmed beginning in the upper left hand corner, left to right and top to bottom, as many frames as required. The following diagrams illustrate the method: 1 2 3 Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent Atre filmAs A des taux de rAduction diffArents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour Atre reproduit en un seul clichA, 11 est fllmA A partir de Tangle supArlour gauche, de gauche A drolte, et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'images nAcessalre. Let. diagrammes sulvants illustrent la mAthode. 32X 1 2 3 4 5 6 ^' JOURNAL O F yj//. A V O Y A G E IN ^nS' ^'f To exj^ore the coaft of America, North wai^ of California^ Bv the fecond Pilot of the Fleets Don Francisco Antonio Maurelle, in the King's Schooner^ called the Sonora, and commanded by Don- JjUAN Francisco de la Bodegav ;> i '^-m^'^ ^■%s^|gle*«*^^5s^v •I 1*1 I 47'* ) R E E. A TH £ following journal having been placed in my hands for perufal, I conceived it to be fo interefting for the im- provement of Geogri>phy, that I defired permiilion to tranflate and publiih it. I was principally induced to take this trouble, becaufe I fup- pofed, that the Spaniards, from their moft peculiar jealoufy with regard to their American dominions*, would never permit that navigators of other countries (particularly the English) fhould know the excellent ports of the Weftern part of America in high Northern Latitudes, which are here laid down with fuch ac- curacy and precifion, together with the abundant fupply of mafls, fire wood, and water which may be procured in moft of them. ■ That moft able Hiftorian Dr. Robertfon, after having mentioned, that moft of the American papers are depofited in the Archivo of tsimanca, near Valladolid, thus proceeds : " The profpeft of fuch a treafure excited my moft ardent curiofity ; »« but the profpeA of it only is all that I have enjoyed. Spain, with ** an excefs of caution, hath unifofmly thrown a veil over her tranl- " adtions in America : from ftrangers they arc concealed with peculiar " folicitudc." Preface to the Hiilory of America, p. ix. O o o 4 It »^ \ t ^r* ] It appears, by Vencgns's Illftory of Caliroriila, publlflicd in 1747 s that great jealouly was then entertained of our difcover- ingaN. W. paflngeS bccaufc thty apprehended we fhould annoy the coafts of Mexico and Peru. Nothing liowevcr can be moregroundlefs tlian thcfe fufpicions*^ for whenever a N. W. or any other Nortliern communication is found between the x^thir.tic and Pacific Oceans, it may be boldly pronounced that fuch paflage will be lb very precarious, as never to anfwcr the purpofe of expeditions in time of war, or commerce during peace. The Spaniards fliould, after our late voyages of difcovery (which rette:^ l*o much honour upon his Majefty's reign), be con- vinced that the Englilh Nation is atfluated merely by defuing to know as much as poflibic with regard to the planet which wc inhabit, and to which our geographical inquiries are neceHiirlly bounded. Tliis diftrurt on the part of Spain would more wifely be di- re«5lcd againft the Ruflians, who from Camlkatlka might eafily eftablifli themfelves on the W. coaft of America, and from thence perhaps in time fhake their unwieldy, and already tottering em- pire ^ From thefe ill-founded apprehenfions of wliat the Englifti may meditate againft their American Dominions on the Welterii coaft of that vaft continent, they will not permit an individual, •* Madrid, 3 vol. Quarto. « Igualmciitc notor'uis foil las ruidofns^ y porfaJas tcntativas dc los hia^lejcs, para hallar un paflage al mar del Sur^ por el Norle de America. ibid. T. III. p. 225. •' I am accordingly informed, that the Emprefs means to fit out four veirds on the eoaft of Camfk;ufka, which arc to be employed in dif- coveries, during the proper feafon of 178 1. even "^trnttrntm"*^-^- -.ji**aa*&,- [ 473* ] even of our nation, to fct hia foot in their part of America, even lor fcicntific purpolls '. NotwitliAaiuliiig thij perpetual dlilrull of rlii; country m the Spaniarcl-s anJ. our pr^icnt u.ir with then, I will v^nui/f to t', for leave that an iLr.t'lIlh Alhcnomer my^lit obkrvc the IVanlii ot Vcmis (cxpLCtul in lyt)^) on loi.e part ol" Cali- fornia. 'I his \vai.;,.'UvJ, tliat Father Bolcowleh, a fircr^ner ami ,i;W C.itl'c/ict, nii;',ht l..ivc the lame pcrmiflion ; in which he ws at firll more ruccelsli-l, but the lavnir was even then granted with many elogs, ami the per ni an at i ill r.-- callal, on accoant of his being a Jefuir, who were at t,.at time bMiI...J from Old and New Spain. At the fame time Chappc Dautcrochc obtained this pcrmiflion, nn.l for the fame purpofe ; the eonfecjucnce of whieh hath bviii, that a draft of the city of Mexico, in its prefent fiate, was found aiiiongll li:s papers, a'ld publiih<.d fy his Catholic Majelly's good allies, the Ficr.eh, for the inform:nion of his enemies. I once applieii myfclf to the late Prince Mafleiano (fo ilcfervedly cftccmcd whillt relident as Miniller of Spain in Engl.md) that an in- genious German, named Kukahn *, might be permitted, uncU-r an'.' reftridions, lo go from La Vera C^ruz, to any part of the province of Mexico, merely to colleft fpecimens of Natural Hillory. 1 was a:io re- fponfible that he never wouKl attend t • ..ly thing, during his journies, but the animals he might meet with. T ough 1 made this applieation by a channel which his excellency wouKl have been defirous to oblige, yet he cxcufed himfelf, from its being a fundamental rule with tiie Court of Spain, that no foreigner be permittal to pals through any part of their donfmions on the continent of America. * See an account of his method of prcfer^■ing animnis, and plai ini^ tlicm in their proper attitudes. (Ph. Tranf.) He is now cllabhlhcd in iaai;iic.i, and l;atli luccecde'd ia railing maiiy European fruits, as alio produiSls of our kltclie'n -gardens, in foit-.c giound which he hath pui chafed, about half a ay up a mountain. * O o o 5 within •-*«*i»^ [ *474 ] within any convenient tliftancc arc nearly cxhnuded, whilfl t^>c charge of bringing quicklilvcr from La Vera Cruz is thcreliy greatly augmented. Vcncgas therefore informs us, tliat it is not worth while to work the more abundant mines of Sonor.i to the Northward, from this inca'afe of expencc. Thefilver in- deed, at fo diflant a period as i joyears ago, was chiefly brought from St. Lewis de Ssicatecas, wiiicli is nearly loo leagues N. of Mexica'. This objcdion does not hold with regard to t!ie continuing to. work the filvcr mines of Peru, as the famous one of quiekfilvtr, called Gunnacahelicii^ is litoated in the fame province. It is be- lieved aUo, tliat the gold viina in America, as they are im- properly called, anfwcr as little to the Spaniards. At leaft I have betii inlbrmcd, by a perlbn who reljded. two or three years in Bralil, winch furnishes the greatcft quantity of this precious metal, that thofc who go in fearch of it are not paid above u Ihilling per day for their labours. Gold is never found in the ftate of ore, or by digging deep into the bowels of the earth ; the adventurers therefore go in companies (jf five or fix to explore thofe parts where they conceive themfelves to have the bcfl thr.nce of findlpg it near the lurface, but- often return after- being out months, with a very fmall portion, by which the fatigues and diuigers they have incurred are poorly compenfatcd. As little would it anfWcr to take poflcfilon of Acapulco, for the fake of an annual fiiip which would prefently change its rcndefvouz for anotlicr port, or of Panama, in order, to inttsr- ' To this it may be mWcd, that the fitiiatlon of Mexico is very un- healthy, Caie comparing the many canals to thofc of Venice, which, are often highly offcnfive. f Sec Gage's Survey of the \V. Indies.] It is aUo fubjcft to great inundations ; ;ind Don Alxatc informs the Acadejay of Sciences at Paris, that during the years i 736 and 1 768 more than one third of the inhabitantb died of the black vomit, CC£t- V i ^B [ 475* ] ccpt the flotilla, which by late regulations is never to touch- tijcre ». The Spairards moreover (hould learn from what Enghnd hath futRred by conquering Canada tor our ungrateful colonies, that the fettlement of a rival nation to the Northward of Mexico, would poflibly operate in favour of the mother country. We have experienced this moft unnatural rebellion within a few years after we had removed the dread of the French in Ca- nada from them, and after every foftcring indulgence on our part. What may the Spaniards therefore have occallon to dread from their vnft American Empire, the inh.ibitants of which they are perpetually opprcihng with their enormous duties and taxes? Thus much have 1 ventured to lay in hopes that the court of Spain will rather promote, than obftru»fl, any future voyage of difcovcry, in tlie Nortliern parts of the Pacific Ocean. I am lorry that 1 have not an opportunity of engraving with this journal the nine charts which Ihould accompany it ; but as the Latitudes and longitudes of the new Difcoverics on the coaft of America are fo accurately llated, 1 (hould hope that the pub- lication will at Icaft convince the Spaniards haw little it will au- fwer the purpofe of myftery to withhold them. It appears by this journal that the Viceroy of Mexico fent fomc other Ihips ou difcovery to the Northward in a preceding year, and W ! B The filver from Peru and Chill is cither now font over part of the Andes to Buenos Ay res, cr othcrwife tranfmittcd in fincle regifter fhlps round Clape Horn. The dlablUhmcnt ol' Gakons lailing in a fleet t'roni Cadiz bcin^ now alfo aboliflicd, Carrhagcn.i, Porir> IJcllo, and Pananja, arc become more than ulclcls to the Spaniards, as the climates are bail, whilft the civil and military cllublifhmcnt at each is very ex. peaftvc. that. tfiat they procedcd to N. Lat. 55. Don Ju.iu Peres, who tnus en/ii^n '^ oi\ honnl the Frigate In the prcl'ciit voyag.', IkuI fomB ftatiou in the tbrmi r, aiul carried with him a cliart ot the coalT, in many of tin- parts which were then c\j>I()red. I am lorry not to lie ahic to ftate any turthi r puriiuhirs, hut think it right to mention thus much, in hopes that it may pro- duce fomc account of this former voyage. I fhould conceive, tliat lioth tlic one and the other were pro- duced hy our attempts to dilcover a N. W. P.il!a;:e ; becaufr it ^vill he found, that whcrev..r tiie Spaniard^ landed tluy were in- lhu(flcd to take pofl'eiruui (though not to keep ir) with every polli- hle formahty, which undouhtcdly was to bo ftt up as a complete title againft future cl.iimanls hy right of diicovery. The compiler of th? prelcnt journal, D. Antonio Al.iurelle, ferved on hoard the fchooner employed on tliia voyage (together with a frigate) under the title of Second Pilot of the Fleet '. In one of the written opinions which he gave whilfl: thus employed, he ftates, that he had ferved ten years in the Bay of Bifcay '% and fecms to have been a moft diligent navigator ; whilrt", to his honour, he always advifes the proceeding to as high a Northern Latitude as poflible, though Ibme of his brother officers almoft defpair. At the clofe of the journal a very accurate table is given of the (hip's courfe for each day, with no lefs th ;n nine columns. Having however confulted fome mofl experienced and able fea-officers on this occafion, they have advifed me only to print '' Alferes. ' I undcrftand that wc have no rank in our ni.iiinc fcrvice which an- fvvcrs at all to this. * The cxprefllon in the original is Gdfo de las J'rj^uas, or the Gulf of Marcs. The Spaniards alio call the gulf of Mexico Golfo dc L:s Citrvas, or Qw\i of Does. 5 a few [ An* ] A ftw of thcfe heads', as fome of them would not be cafdy un- derftood by any navigator, who is not a Spanlanl. Upon tlic whole, it is hoped, that tlii.; account of an eight months navigation on the untVcquintcd coail of America, will prove a valuable addition to geography ; dpccially as our im- mortal Captain Cook had fo few opportunities of examining moft parts of the fame continent to the Weftward "*, though his dif- coveries to the Northward will prove (o intcrcfting. ' It is richt alfo to obfervc, that (though I give the column which ftatcs the Variation of the Nccillc) it is not fpccificd whether tht Vari- ation is VV'cft or Kaft ; 1 fliouki rather indeed liippolc it to be the latter, on the authority of Dr. Hallcy, though perhaps the direction may have altered fincc the laft century. This doubt however will be fettled when C'apt. Cook's lalt voyaj^c is publiflied. ■" This is faid to have been occafioncd by unfavourable winds. I 47« 1 ') PREFACE OF Don ANTONIO MAURELLE. FOR the better underAanding this Journal, it will be proper to premil'e tlie following particulars. The charts which we ufed during the voyage were thole of Monf. Bellin, the one publifbc'd in 1766, and the other in 17 — ; the firft of which places the port of St. Bias, 110 degrees W. Long, from Paris, and the fccond 114, differing confequcntly 4 degrees. For this reafon I have always reckoned the Weftcrn Longitude from St. Bias', and not from Paris. At the end there is an accurate table, every page of which in- fludes a month, with an account of the Ship';; courfe each day, together with the number of leagues failed, the longitude, lati- tude, variation of the needle (which laft, when attended to, is marked with an afterilk), and the diftance from the ncarcft. l.uul. • San Bias is a very fmall hamlet, on the W. coalt of the province of Mexico, at the mouth of the River S. l*edio. It is but within thelc few years that the Spaniards have made a lettlement there, for the con» vcnicncy of tranfporting "the troops ami provilions they fend to California. Dr. Robertfon's map places it about the iad degree of N. Lat. and SStli W. Long from Fcro. See alio Chappe D'Aiite roc he's account of his journey from I .a Vera Cruz to S. Bias in i 769. The Latitude of this port is not lettlcd by this Journal, nor J^ongitiidc except bv reference. r 3- 'Atr J. [ 47» ] The plans of the ports which have been dlfcovered, follow thcfe tables, as alfo a chart of the whole coaft, drawn with the grenteft accuracy, as we always marked the mofl diflinguiihablc points. In order alfo that we might be more exaft, we com- pared the fliip's courfe with that of the coaft, and repeated our obfervations, both in failing Northwards, and returning to the South. .. . . ■ . * , We likewife have omitted every longitude, in which we con- ceived there had been miftakes, by accidents that had happened, and when we only doubted in diftances of no great moment, we have laid them down, making the proper allowances. The latitudes of the charts '' are marked with the greateft prc- ciHon, in thofe fituations where it may be of the moft ufe, having had fufficient time to make the proper oblervations, whilft the allowances for refraftion were attended to. *• Thefe charts unfortunately did not accompany the Journal. January ^^-. I 47J ) yantiary, 1775. BEING on board the King's florefliip ' the Sjnta Rica^ which then lay in the port of Vera Cruz, I received on the lotli of that month an order from his Excellency the Viceroy ^ Don Antonio Maria de Bucarely and Orfua, to undertake the funflion of firft pilot in the expedition, which was then fitting out at tlic port of St. Bias for difcoveries on the Northern coafl of Cali- fornia % As I have always had tl\e ftrotigeft defire to ferve his Majefty (be the rifque what it may) I readily accepted this commiflion, and fctting out from La Vera Cruz on the 1 2th of January, I reached Mexico on the 18th in order to receive his Excellency's further commands. I left Mexico again on the i6th of February, and arrived at the Port of St. Bias ^ putting myfelf under the Ciders of the officer, who was to fit out the expedition, Don Bruno Heceta. The fhips prepared for this purpofe were a frigate and fchooner', the latter being 36 feet long"", 12 feet wide, and 8 deep, commanded by the Lieutenant Don Juan dc Ayala, affifted by Don Juan Francifco de la Bodega, of the fame « Urea. •• So. of Mexico. ' It fhould feem from this journal, that the Spaniards deem all the N.W. coaft of Amesica beyond California to be part of that province. ' The journey from La Vera Cruz to Port S. Bias is fuppofcd to be 300 leagues, thus divided : from J.a Vera Cruz to Mexico no leagues ( and from the latter to S. Bias 1 90. e Goleta. ^ 1 8 codos, each codo being two feett % ppp rank. '. M C 474 ] r.nnk, and I embarked in the fchooner. It fo happened that the pacquct-boat S. Carlos was at this time in the port of S. Bias, commanded by the lieutenant D. Miguel Maurrique, who was to proceed to the eAabliihment at Monterey'. Whllft we coatmued here, we laid in provifions for a year's voyage ; all of which were procured from the neighbourhood. On the 1 6th of March we had taken on board all fuch necef- farics ; and at lo o'clock at night the three veffels fet fail, fleering N. W. with a gentle land-breeze at N.N.E. but though we did every thmg in our power during the night to keep company with the other fhips, we were not able, which we conceived to arlfe from the cargoe not being properly (lowed, becaufe the fchooner's reputed rate of failing, by thofe who were well-ac- quainted witii her, left us fcarcely any doubt with regard to this being the real caufe. As foon as day appeared on the 17th It grew calm, and con- tinued fo till three in the afternoon ; when a breeze from the N.W. arifing, we fleered N.N.E. and towards the coafl, till fun-ifet, when the wind fell. At this time we caft anchor, and found ourfelves 4 leagues N. N. E. of S. Bias, and in this man- ner we profecuted our voyage, making ufe of the fea-breeze during the day, and the land-breeze during the night, gaining very little to windward ^^ and cafting anchor when the wind fell, in order not to lofe ground by the currents ' , after fo little progrefs, and with fuch trouble. • The latitude of Monterey is fettled afterwards by thiS journal to be in 36 44 N. Lat. and 170 W. long, from St. Bias. It is fituatedon the Wtrtern coaft of California, and a miflion of Jefuits is there eftablilhed. ^ Barlovento. ' The currents are fo ftrong in this fe? that a promontory S. of S. Bias i- called Corrlentes. On 11' ; '.*> » 1^, [ 175 ] Oa the 13th at thiv^c iutlic evening the S. Carles Pacquct-boat made a fignal for help, on wiiich our captain Tent a boat, in which Don MignelMaiirique (who comm.'.nded the Pacquct) was brought to our fliip, when wc plainly difcovcred, l;y hii a«5lioiis, that lie was out of his fctifes. On tliis our piir.cipal ofticcrs ac- companied liini on board the frigate, that the cantaiii might give the proper orders on this occafion, when a council being held, and the furgeons examined, as well as ocular proofs appearing; of D. Maurique's maducfs, it was determined to fet him on flioi . , as alfo to give the command of the pacquet-boat to Dun Juan d'Ayla, lieutenant of the frigate, and that of the fchooner to Don Juan Francifco de la Bodega and Quadra, who had the fame rank. On the 20th, the breeze being moderate, it was difcovcred that the foretopfail "» was rent in feveral places, which dcfccl it was necefl'ary to repair immediately. Whilft the wind thus continued, the commander of the fchooner tried many experiments, to make her fail better, one of which indeed rather improved her rate ; but the frigate, nof- withftanding, was ftill obliged to fhorten fail, in order to keep us company, and indeed to take us in towe ". On the 24th at noon we had fight of the Southernmoft of the Marias °, lying to the N. E. at the diftance of three leagues, which makes the then fituation of our (hip exadly a degree W. of S. Bias, according to M. Belin's map of 1756, and in N. Lat. 21. 4. m. Now this differs from my obfervations, being 26 mi- nutes too far Northwards. " El maftelero de vclacho. " In the original another experiment is ftated, which I have not tranflated, as I conceive it would be uninterefting to the reader. " There are three iflands thus called. Ppp 2 WhiJfl- w i<«»r«|^. ■•^^ " ■ ■ ~^ [ +7« 1 I; j t* ji I*; M' Whilft we were in this fituation we loft fight of the pacquet- boat, but we continued our courfc fteciing S. W. ' when we ob- ferved many birds, fome of which were black, with a white fpot on their breaft, the wings long, beak rather large, belly- prominent, and tail like a pair of fciflars'«j others again were entirely white; whilft fome were grey, with a fuigle large feather. We likewife faw otlier birds, which dived often under the water, named hobos. During great part of March the wind freihened in the day, and fell at night, particulavly a liittle before the new moon% (which happened on the 29th,) after which we had often calms,, the wind having before blown from the N. W. to the N. on this fame day (viz. the 29th) we faw an ifland at funfet, which is faid to be called Socorro ',. by which name it is not to- be found In the French iiups, nor in the Hiftory of California *► We had a view of it whilft it lay to the Eaftward at the diftance of 9^ or 10 leagues, which with difficulty we gained to windward", wifhing to fail as nearly as poflible upon the meridian of that ifland. On the 30th we endeavoured to approach nearer to Socorro, when it lay W. N. W..* at the diftance of four leagues, but r Sudocfte quarta al cede.. ■• Tixcra. ' Great attention to the moon, and its flippofctf effedks on the weather^ is tobeobfervcd in other partsof this journal. ' This ifland, in Dr. Robcrtfon's, map, is placed in 19.N. Lat. and 94 W. Long, from Fero. ' This is probably the hiftory. of that country publilhed by Migud Vencgas (a Mexican Jefuit) at Madrid, in i/jS, which was tranllated, into Engl ifli, and printed at London in 1759. It is not at all extraor- dinary however that this ifland fliould not be mentioned in that account, as Venegas chiefly, defcribcs the E. coaft of California. Socorro is coa- ficrerably to the South of that Poninfula. " Orzando. ^ Quarta al ocflc. C 477 ] wc could not ef&£k this on account^ of the currents to the S» which carried us to Leeward ''. From the 31ft of March till the 4th of April we had either calms or light breezes, oa which account we could not fail fur- ther from tins ifland than we Xott by the currents. For this reafou alfo we tried by towing the fchooner, and ufing of oar oars, whether we might not make fome part of the ifland,. where we might procure water ; but in this we could not fuccced on. ac- count of the violent currents. This ifland, which, as was faid. before, is not named Socorro- in any maps, is undoubtedly that which was difcovercd by Her- nando Triabba, who commanded a fliip difpatched from Guauf tepeque, by Hernan Cortes, to explore the coafl of California* This veflel failed 300. leagues * and fell in with aa ifland named St. Thomas, which is {o called in the Frencli maps,, though erroneoufly placed, becaule its real latitude is 1 8^ 53' N« Lat. and W. Long, from S. Bias 5° 1 8', On the 4th of April we loft fight of Socorro to the E. N E. and profecuted our voyage to windward as much as pofliblc^ without any other accident but the frigate's bowfprit being da^- maged, which we foon repaired. At this time we found that the flcy was notfo clear as before, we approached Socorro, that the fun did not appear lb frequently, that the mifts were not fo thick, that tlie wind was mucli mora cold, and in fliort we experienced a very different tempera- ture. Till the 14th, when the full moon happenal, the breezes were flight, and the currents always to the South, after this y Sotovcnto* ^ There is a chafm in the MS with regard to the dircftlon in which Sac failed. however k^ ._. :.i'4W" If IH' [ 478 ] lunvovcr the wind frcfhcned to theN. N. E. fomctimes flitting to the N. E. and blowng more ftrongly from that point. IJy thcfc means wc had an opportunity of trying the failing cnpacity of the kliooncr, for tlic rougher tlic fca the more fail was fct, fo that tiic deck war. conftantly two phuiks* under water to leeward; which tIiorouf;hly convinced thofc on Ijoard the frigate of our determined refolulion to profccutc our voyage. Tlie crews of botli (hips, who obfcrvcd what a prefs of fail was carried by the fchooner, from the determined rcfolution of the officers to proceed as far Northward as poflible, faw plainly that tliey were in fome degree miftaken, by conceiving at our firft departure that the fchooner would be obliged to return to S. Bias In a fortnight. They however ftlll fhewed their apprehcnfions if fhe purfued her voyage, whllft fome of the fchooner's company began to ficken, and wi(h themfelves on board the frigate, where there were medicines and a furgeon. The furgeoa however de- clared, that if fuch feamen were removed to the frigate, they would be probably feized with a fever, on which the Cap- tain thought it right that this opinion ihould be made known to the fchooner's crew, as he fuppoled it would have a greater ef- fedl than the threats of any punifhment. To fay the truth, we could not but be forry to obferve the horror that the crew con- ceived of the bad condition of the fchooner, which affordtd miferable quarters for the fick, as the feamen could not do the bufinefs without being thoroughly wet, except when it was calm. Thefe diftreffes would have become infufFerable, had not the commander behaved with the greatefl kindnefs to the crew, he encouraged them to perfift alfo, by giving them frequently fmall • Tablas. 4 prefentSj IVv -. •^- a»-»- [ 479 ] prefents, and reminded them of the glory they would obtain on their return, if they reached the proptr latitude *>. He added nlfo, that the rifquc was nearly equal* to both veflels, and that as each (hip*s company valued their lives, they might be fure that it would not be attempted to proceed further than was confident with their mutual fafety. This interpoHtion of the commander had at length the proper effc&, and we agreed to live and dye together. On the nth of May the wind began to veer about, and on every point to the Eaftward, but ended to the £. & S. £. with many fqualls ' and mifts. The ftrong currents which we had before experienced to the S. were now fcarcely to be per- ceived. On the 2ift our commander held a council, in which it was to be determined whether we (hould continue our voyage, or put into the eftablifliment at Monterey, and that the refolutions we (hould come to might be the more deliberate, our opinions, with the reafons on which they were founded, were reduced to writ- ing. As the wind however was very violent, there could be no peribnal communication between the officers of the two (hips, and our opinions were therefore tranfmitted by means of a cafk. [Thefe opinions follow, in the journal at length, but as they would not be very iiiterefting even to the navigator, I (hail only ftixte that they all agree in advlfing that they (hould proceed as far N. as 43. rather than put into Monterey. The principal '' It appears afterwards that they were inflrudted to proceed as far N. as 65 if practicable. ' It muft be recollcdted that at this time tliC frigate towed the fchooncr. '' Chuvafcos, which is fuppofeil to be a term iifed in the Mcxlcart Seas. rcafoa ¥ ■4* h i [ 480 ] rcafon for this advice Is, tliat Martin de AguUar had difcovered a river in this latitude, where they liopcd confequently to water, and repair their veffels',] We proceeded on our voyage therefore with bride winds from the N. & N. N. E. the fca running high till the 30th, when the new moon happened during which interval we made many tacks, and did not accurately obferve cur longitude or lati- tude. On this fame day we had gentle breezes between N. W. & S. W. varying thus for the three following days, after which the wind was fteady in the \V. N. W. and blew frefher as the moon increafed. On the firft of June one of our feamen was (b drunk with ipirits that we thought it right to remove him to the frigate ', where he afterwards died in lefs than fix hours. On the fiime day we obferved fome fea-weeds, the top of which much refem- bled an orange % from the upper part of which hung large and broad leaves. At the extremity of this plant is a very long tube, which fixes to the rocks on the coaft till it is loofened by the fea, when it often floats to the diftance of 1 00 leagues. We named this plant \\\t Orange- bead. The next day we faw another plant, with long and narrow leaves like a ribband, which is called Zacate del Mar ; we aUb faw many lea-wolves, ducks, and fifh. « In the account of this voj^age in 1601, added to Venegas's Hiftory of California, this river is faid to have been difcovered by the pilot Lopes, and not by Martin dc Aguilar. In fome maps it is placed in 45 N. Lat. ^ P^cr.jfc there was a furgeon on board that Ihip, probably. « Una naranja. On tH "^'- ' ''■. ' '■7Tfl ? t*, -r:a-^ -rmr-' ; . t . -j So called from Mcndoza, a Viceroy of Mexico, who fcnt fome iliips on difcovery. Moll maps place this on the N. W. point of Cali- fornia. " Dc ocho cavos. Qjiq our # ■-»-.<"» Y'\'K^ .1 ' { \A ■ii \"\ [ 4«4 ] our mufquetry and cannon, which naturally made the Indians fuppofe we were irrefiftible. After they had recovered their fright however, and found that we had done them no harm, they vifited us again, and probably to examine more nearly what had. occafloned the tremendous noife which they had never heard before. As we thus took pofleflloti on the day when holy mother church celebrates the feftival of the moft holy Trinity, we named the port accordingly **. The following days were taken up in procuring wood and water, whllft the fchooner was careened. We likewife cut fome mads for her. We coiuld not but particularly attend to alt the aiftious of the Indians, their manner of living, habitations, garments, food, government, laws, language, and arms, as alfo their p hunting and fiflieries. The dlftruft indeed which we naturally entertained of thefe barbarians, made us endeavour to get as great an infight into all thefe as poffible, yet we never obferved any thing con- trary to the moft perfect friend(hip and confidence which they feemed to repofe in us. I may add, that their iutercour£e with us was not only kind, but affedionnte. There hcufes were ft]uare, and built with large beams, the roofs being no higher than the furface of the ground, for the » There is certainly fome ufe to geographers in thiis curtom of tlic Spaniards naming places from the Saint's day in which they take pof- feflibn, or make the dUcovery, as it points out to poftcrity the time ot the year when the event happened. P Sus caz/isy which like the French word chafe and Italian cacchy. comprehends alfo fowling. In Sir Afliton Lever's moft capital mufcum may be feea what contrivances are ufcd by the Indians of St. George's Sound N. Lat. 50. 011 this fame coaft and for thefe purpofes. There is alfo in the fame noble rcpofitory fome birdlime fronuthe newly difcovered Sandwich illands. '. ' door,s % i . !♦ C 485 ] <» doors to which they make ufe of a circular hole, juft large enough for their bodies to pafs through. The floors of thefe huts are perfeftly fmooth and clean, with a fquare hole ■« two feet deep in the centre, in which they make their fire, and round i^hich they are continually warming themfelves, on account of the great cold. Such habitations alfo (ecure them, when not em- ployed out of doors, from the wind and noxious animals. The naen however do not wear any covering, except the cold is iiitenfe, when indeed they put upon their Ihouldcrs the fkins of fea-wolves, otters, deer, or other animals : many of them alfo have round their heads ' fweet-fmelling herbs. They likewife wear their hair either difhevelled over their Hioulders, or other- wife en cajianna '. In the flaps of their ears tliey have rings like thofe at the end of a mufquet '. They bind their loins and legs quite dowii to the ancles^ very clofely, with ftrips of hide or thread. They paint their face, and greater part of their body, regularly either with a black or blue " colour. Their arms are covered with circles of fmall points in the fame manner that common people in Spain often paint ihips and anchors. s Oyo or eye literally. ^ I'na rucda, literally a garland in the form of a wheel, » The Spaniards api)ly callanna to a particular methol of drefling the hair — feinaJo en cajlannay l/'terally fignifics, hair drtlied to refemblc achelnut tree. ' I am informed by a gentleman long rcfident in Spain, that it is not UDufiial. to have rings fo placed, and that they arc of ulb to prevent the knaplack from falling off. " Azarcon; . TIu' r\ ,<* i li m The women cover the tops of their heads with an ornament like the creft of a helmet", and wear their hair in two trefles'', in which they ftick many fweet-fmelling herbs. They alfo ufe the fame rings in their caps (which are of bone) as the men are before defcribed to do, and cover their bodies with the fame (kins, hefides which they more decent]^' wear an apron of the lame kind, about a foot wide, with fome threads formed into a fringe. They. llkcwife bind their legs in the fame manner with the men. The underlip of thefe women is fwelled out into three fa/etas^ or riiings, two of which iffue from the corners of the mouth to the lowtft part of the beard % and the third from the higheft point, and middle of that point to the lower, like the others % leaving between each a fpace of clear flefh, which is much Jarger in the young than in the older women, whole faces are generally covered wirfi pundtures *•, fo as to be totally dis- figured. On their necks they wear various fruits', inftead of beads ; fome of thcfe oruriments alfo coniift of the* bones of animals, or fhells from the iea-coaft. This tribe of Indians is governed by a ruler, who direds where they (hall go both to hunt and fi(h for what the com- munity ftands in need of. We alfo obferved that one of thefe Indians always examined carefully the fea-flioar, when we went # I * Copa de timbras. y Colgadas par las mefillas. • That is, I fuppofe, what would be beard in men. • I muft own, that I do not thoroughly comprehend this defcription, though I think I cannot have mis-tranflated it. ■• Picadum, fo that I conclude thcfe fwelHngs on the face, in fuch forms as defcribed, muft be occafioned by a fort of tattooing. * Rather feeds perhaps. m to ^)) I [ 487 ] to our (hips on the clofe of twilight % the occafion of which pro- hably was to take care that all their people (hould return fate to their habitations about that time. It (hould {cem that the authority of this ruler is confined to a particular village of thefe habitations, together with fuch a dif- tridt of country as may be fuppofed to belong to the inhabitants, of fuch a community, who fometimes are at war with other villages, againfl whom they appeared to a(k our afllftance, making us figns ' for that purpofe. There are however many other villages which are friendly to each other, if not to thcfe Indians ; for on our firft arrival more than 300 came down in diftcrent parties, with their women and children, who were not indeed permitted to enter the village of our Indians. Whilft this fort of intercourfe continued between us, we ob- ferved an infant who could fcarcely be a year old, (hooting arrow;* from a bow proportioned to his lize and ftrength, and who hit one's hand at two or three yards dlftance, if it was held up for a mark. ■■ We never obferved that thefe Indians had any idols, or made facrinces : but as we found out that they had a plurality of wives, or women, at lea{t, we inferred, ivil/j good renjorif thai they -were ferjc£l atheifts. Upon the death of one of thefe Indians they raifed a (brt of funeral cry, and afterwards burned the body within tlie houfe of tlieir ruler ; but from this we could not pronounce they were Idolaters, becaufe the cry of lamentation might proceed from affli<5lion, and the body might have been burnt, that the corpfe ly .1 ^ A la oracicn, in the original, at which time the Spaniards ufually make a fhort prayer. • What thefe were is not dated. (houlJ ( . it' l^^\ [ 488 ] fliould not be cxpofed to wild beafts ; or perhaps this miglit have been done to avoid the ftench of the deceafed, vyhen putrefadion might commence. We were not able to underftand one of their regulations, as they permitted our people to enter all their houfes, except that of their ruler; and yet when we had broken through this eti- quette, we could not obfervc any thing different between the falaccy and the other huts. It was impoflible for us to underftand their language, for which reafon we had no intercourfe but by flgns, and therefore both parties often continued in a total ignorance of each other's meaning : we oblerved however that they pronounced our words with great eafe ^ Their arms are chiefly arrows pointed with flint, and fbme of them with copper or iron ^, which we underftood were procured from the N. and one of thefe was thus marked Cj,,. Thefc ar- rows are carried in quivers of wood or bone, and hang from their wrift or neck. f From hence it may be inferred, that thefe Indians pronounce gut- turally, as all the nations of Europe indeed do, except the Englifli, French, and great part of Italy. B Such are to be feen at Sir Aihton Lever's Mufeum from K. George's found N. Lat. 50. which confirms the journal in their being brought from the North. I fhould conceive that the copper and iron here men- tioned mull have originally been bartered at our forts in Hudfon's Bay, with the travelling hordes of Indians who refort there at Hated times. Some of our own people are alfo very enterprizing in their excurfions, as one of them within thefe few years hath heen as far ss N. Lat. 72. W. Long, from Fort Churchill 24. where he faw an open fea. — In the fame noble Mufeum is a moft particular bow from the W. coaft of Ame- rica N . Lat. 50. which exa^ly refembles one from the Labradorc Coaft. '1^; ' But j.!"*. — • I Ah ] ' But what they chiefly value is iron, and pirtiailnrly kmvcs or hoops of old barrels ; they alio readily barter for hngic', whilft they rcjefted botli provillons or any article of drefs. Tlu-y pretended however that they fometimes approved the former, in order to procure our efteem ; but fbon after they had accepted any fort of meat, we obferved that they fet it afide, as of no value. At lail Indeed they took kindly to our bifcuits, and really cat them. Amongft thefe Indians there was one who had more familiar intercourfe with us than all the reft, Kitting down with us in fight of his countrymen. They ufed tobacco, which they fmoaked in fniall wooden pipes, in form of a trumpet, and procured from little gardens where they had planted it ''. They chiefly hunt deer, cibulos, fea-wolves, and otters, nor did we obfervc that they purfued any others. The only birds we met with on this part of the coaft were daws, hawks, very fmall paroquets, ducks, and gulls ; there were alfo Ibme par- rots with red feet, bills, and breads, like lories both in their heads and flight. The fifli on that coaft are chiefly fardines, pejerey '", and cod ; of which they only bring home as much as will fatisfy the wants of the day. We tried to find If they had ever feen other ft rangers, or fhips than our own, but though we took great pains to inform ourfelves on this head, we never could perfc£tly comprehend what they faid ; upon the whole we conceived that wc were the only foreigners who had ever vifitcd that part of the coaft. ^ It need fcarccly be obferved that tobacco is an indigenous plant iti N. America, as it is alfo of Afia. ' In this and other infl::inccs where I do not know the annual alluded to, I lliall give the Joui naliiVs name. R 1- r We \k' t +5^ ] We like^vife eiuleavourcd to know from them whether tlicy hat) any mines or precious floncs ; but in this we were Ilkewilc dillippointcd. Wliat \vc faw of the country leaves us no doubt of its fertility, aHtl that it is capable of producing all tiie plants of Europe. In mofi of tJie gullies of the hills there are rills of clear and cool water, the fides of which are covered with herbs (as in the meadows of Europe) of both agreeable verdure andfmell'. Amongft thefe were Caftilian rofes, fmallage, lilies, plantain,, thiftles, camomile, and many others. We likewife found ftraw- berries, ralberries, blackberries, fweet onions, and potatoes, all which grew in confiderable abundance, and particularly near the rills. Amongd other plants we obferved one which much refembled percely (though not in its fmell), which the Indians bruifed and eat, after mixing it with onions. The hills were covered with very large, high, and ftrait pines, amongft which I obferved fome of 120 feet'' high, and 4 in dia- meter towards the bottom. All thefe pines are proper for mafls and (hip-building. The outline of the port is reprefented in Chart the 6th ', which was drawn by D. Bruno Heceta, D. Juan Fr. de la Bodega, and mylelf. Though the port is there reprefented as open, yet it i& to be underftood that the harbour is well ftieltered from the S. W. W. & N. W. as alfo from the N. N. E. & E. [This difcovery was made by the fchooner on the 9th of June.] » Perhaps the accounts given by navigators of the beauty of a country or its productions after a long voyage may be not entirely relied upon, as they are commonly exagerated. '' Sefanta varas. ' Thefe Charts, which amount to lune, have neve«- been tranlmittcd to England. 2 . - ' In • U •» [ 491 ] In the W. part there is a hill 50 fathoms * high, joining to the continent on tlie N. fide, where there is another rifing of 20, both of which afford protection not only from the winds, but the attack of an enemy. At the entrance of the port is a fmall ifland of confiderabic height, without a fingle plant upon it ; and on the fides of the coaft are high rocks, which are very convenient fordifembarking"; goods alfo may be (hipped fo near the hill", that a ladder may be ufed from the land to the veflel ; and near the fand are many fmall rocks, whic,h fecure the fliip at anchor from theS.E. andS.W. We compleated our watering very early from the number of rills which emptied themfelves into the harbour ; we were like- wife as loon fupplied with wood. We paid great attention to the tides, and found them to b* as regular as in Europe. We made repeated obfervations with regard to the latitude of this harbour, and found it was exaflily 41 degrees and 7 minutes N. whilft we fuppofed the Longitude to be 19 degrees and 4 mi- nutes W. of S. Bias. We had thus thoroughly inveftigated every thing which re- lates to this harbour, except the .courfe of a river which came from the S. W. and which appeared whilft we were at the top of the hill P. We took therefore the boat on the i8th, and 'found that the mouth was wider than is necefliiry for the difcharge of the water, which is loft in the fands on each fide, {q that wc " Tucffas. ° By the water being deep clofe to thefe rocks. ° Sc. That of 50 fathoms in height. f The going thither hath been before mentioned. R r r 2 :ouId ^^'11 I I 49^ ] could not even enter it except at full tide. However we left our boat, and preceded a league Into the country, whilft the river continued of the fame width ; viz. 20 feet, and about ffve deep. On the banks of this river were larger timber trees than we had before feen, and we conceived that in land- floods the whole plain (which was more than a quarter of a league broad) mufl be frequently covered with water, as there were many places where it continued to ftagnate. We gave this river the name of Pigeons^ becaufe at our %ft landing we faw large flocks of thefe, and other birds, fome of which had pleafing notes. On the fides of the mountains we found the fame pliants and fruits, as in the more immediate neighbourhood of Trinity- Harbour. On the 1 9th of June, at 8 in the morning, we took up our nnchors, and failed with a gentle breeze from N. W. which had continued in the fame direftion all the time we were in port. It fell calm however at ten, on which we caft anchor about a can- non's (hot from the little ifland, where we had ten fathom water, and a muddy bottom. On the 20th in the evening the wind blew again from theN. W. jind we failed to the E. S. W. & S. E. the wind' continuing N. W. which made the fea run high. On the 2 ift was new moon, and the wind veered about to the W. with fmall rains and niifts, which feparated the two fliips for fix or eight hours, during which we made our lignals by lights, and firing guns. In order to get into the courfe we were to fteer, if the wind proved favourable, I mentioned to our commander what I had read .-»•— ■— 1»^ [ 4W ] read in D. Juan Perez's journal i, wliich had been delivered to him, where it was obferved that this navigator had the winds» from theS. & S. E. with whioli it was eafy to run along the coaft, to a high Northern latitude, and for that reafon Perez was of opinion that the coaft (hould not be approached till 4,9,. in which I agreed with him. Our commanders indeed kept as much to windward as poflible in order to take advantage of the wind, whenitfhould become fair ; but it foon changed to the W. & N. W. which drove us on that part of the coaft which we wanted to avoid. On this fame day we lepaired feveral damages which our fhip had fufFered, with the greateft alacrity, in hopes of profecuting cur difcoveries, and found that (he failed better comparatively with the frigate than fhe had done before ', On the 2d of July fome other damages were repaired. Although we laid great ftrefs upon getting to the Weftward, in order that we might afterwards proceed N. as alfo difcovec fome port in a lower latitude than 65, yet we were not able to efFeft this, as the wind from being W. turned to the N. W. and drove us upon the coaft [too early]. On the 9th of July I conceived myfelf to be in the latitude of the mouth of a river',, difcovered by John de Fuca (according to the French map) which we therefore endeavoured to make for, whilft at the fame time we obferved that the fea was coloured, as in founding?; many fifli*, reeds zo feet long, and the Orange- ^ ^ It appears afterwards that this D. Juaa Perez was enfi^tt on board the frigate, and that He had failed in a former voyage of ilifcovery tea coniiderable N Latitude on theW. coaft of America. ' The particulars of thefe repairsy as alfo in what refpe(fl Ihe failed better, are omitted as uninterefting. » Perhaps jfw// fbocaj. I Toninasy fuppofedtobcporpeffcst beads [ 494 ] tends '^ likewife appeared; all of which circumftanccs (hewed that we were not far diftant from the 003(1. The {jime day both whid and fea increafed fo much that our deck was thoroughly wetted, and our cifterii of water alfo was much damaged, on which account it became neccfl'ary to fleer S. W. from five in the evening till day-break, when the fea became more calm, and wind more fair ; fo that we failed N. and a point to the E. hoping to difcover the land. At fun-fet the horizon was more clear, and the (igns of ap- proaching the coaft greatly increafed ; as we could not difting^iifh it however we kept in the wake of the frigate, by very cledr moonlight. On the nth at day break the (ky was very bright, there was an appearance of foundings, much fea-weed, many birds, and the greateft figns of being near land. In efleA at ii the fun (hone, and we dillinguKhed the coaft to the N, W. when we were about 12 leagues from it. In the evening both wind and fea rofe fo much that the frigate ■thought it right to keep us in fight, and we were much fatigued by the violence of the weather. On the 1 2th we had got five or fix leagues to the N. of jthe frigate, whilft we were but three leagues from the land, with a more favourable wind and calmer fea, fo that we joined her by eleven. At fix in the evening the coaft was not more diftant than 'a league, when we diftlngui(hed various headlands, many fmaJl iflands, as alfo mountains covered with fiiow. We llkcwife found a barren ifland about half a league in cir- cumference, which we called de Dolores. A fca-plaut before defcribcd. We [ 49S J Wc now carried all the fall we could to follow the frigate, ImU we could not do To at tlic proper dldancc, in fo much that at fun- let we loft figlit of her, and although during the whole night we hung out lights, fired our guns, as alfo rockets, flic never anfwered our (Ignals, from which we concluded that they coukl not he diftinguiftied hy our companion. On tlic ijtli however the frigate appeared at a great diftance^ and feemed to he making for the coaft. We now founded, and found 30 fathoms of water, caftlng anchor two leagues and half from the land. At twelve on the fame day we faw the frigate ftill at a greater diftancc to lccward» though flie endeavoured to approach the coaft. On this we fet fail to join her, keeping at the liimc tunc as near to the land as wc could, and hcing not fartlier diftant than a mile, we plainly diftinguifhed, as we pafled to the S. W. the plains, fmall de- tached rocks, and low headlands, till fix in the evening. As we could not however find any port, and could not hear to lofe the Northing we had gained \yith lb much trouble, we determined to caft anchor near a point, where wc thought we Ihould be able to procure wood and water, as well as mafts. The frigate was now not more than half a league diftant, and we therefore made a fignal to her to caft anchor, having eight fathoms of water upon founding. After this I foon went on board the frigate, the Captain of which told me that the Conjmander of the fchooner Ihould come to him, in order to hold a council, whether the fchooner Ihould proceed or not to a higher latitude, as every minute we flayed longer on the coaft, w^ould fubjcft us to greater rifques, both from the winds and fea. This was alfo the more to be dreaded, as the whole crew of the frigate had been fick for the two laft days, whilft the commander hiixifelf was far from well. The captai.u :1 « )--'i " ' -m.. ) I 4i)« ] cnptalti of the fcliooncr therefore was to keep lu.ir, and joiutly take pofllfiion of this part of the coaft. I accordingly carried thcfc orders to the fchooncr, whofe captain dirciflcd that the next day wc fl-JouUI join the frigate. In tlie mean Avhile nine canoes df tall and ftout Indians ap- peared, who invited the crew of the fchooner with great cordiality to eat, drink, and fleep with them. Our commander took care to regale them in the heft manner ^e could, and particularly their chieftains, as well as thole who came the moft readily on board, giving them whatever they icemed moft to defire. The Indians, heing obliged by thefe civilities, rowed near to our fhip, making frienaly figns, and as we anfwered by the fame civilities, they left \\s at nine, and foon returned with fifti of many forts, fifgro^ whale, and falmon, asallbflefh of feveral ani- mals, well cured \uider ground. Thefe prefents, in fufficicn't abundance, were olTered to our commander, after which thcv returned to their villages, leaving us in high admiration of their noble proceedings. On the 1 4th in the morning the fea ebbed fo low, that the ridges of rocks appeared along the coaft, which prevented us from then lailuig, and obliged \is to wait for the full of the tide, which was to happen at 1 2 at noon. During this interval the Indians trafficked with us for various Ikins of animals, for which they expc(£led Ibme peices of iron in exchange, wiiich they mani- feftcd by putting their hands upon the rudder-irons" ; our people therefore procured them fuch, from old chefts, after which tliey returned to their village, making the fame ligns as they had done the day before. I» ■*. Los Machos del timon. Oil fl< I 497 ] On the I ft of July we were to go on ftiorc by onlcr of our ■comnianclcr ; and as wc were ftill to continue our voyage lor Tome time, it was ncctflliry wc (houlil procure a (uHlcicut quan- tity of water (lb much being ufed lincc vvt- Tailed from Port Trinity) though hitherto wc had not been able to ciYcO: this from want of a proper tide, which at the fame time prevented US from getting wood and a mart. For this rcafon Inch part of the crew was pitched upon who were likely to be niort aclive in the fervice, eacli of them taking a gun and piflo], and fonie of them a cutlafs" and cartridge 'box, the whole party being put under the command of Pedro S"ata-Ana', who always dilVni- guilhed himfelf upon fuch occafions. Tiicy alfo took with them hatchets, and were directed to fend us back the boat, that wc might fill it with caiks, after which they were to carry them to that part of the coaft where they could fooacft compleat their watering. Our detachment therefore contrived to land where there was the deepell water, and the neareft pofliblc to a river. They had fcarccly done this, however, when the Indians ruflied out from the mountains to the number ef 300, and furrounding our fea- men immediately, we concluded that the whole detachment would have been cut ofi^ as we only perceived a iingle fire from our people, and that two of them running to the fhore threw themfelves into the fea, whofe fate we could not know on account of the (hallows of the coaft. As we therefore could not help our comrades, by "not having fufficient depth of fea for our veffel, we fired our great guns and y Sabre. * He is dated to have been contro-maeftre, or perhaps niafter's fnate. Ss s muflcets ; •t; n I i > [ 498 ] muflcets ; but as our fhot did not reach the Indians, nor could they know what damage we might do them at a lefs diftance, they did not move at all, or defift from their treacherous attack. On this, not being able to fuccour our comrades, we hoiftcd a iignal of diftrefs, which the frigate being fo far off could not diflinguifh. The Indians however at eleven returned to their villages, whilft we neither could fee our feamen or their boats. By twelve at noon it was full fea, and we endeavoured to reach the frigate, every one exerting themfelves to the utmoft ; our whole crew, indeed, now contiAed of but five men and a boy, who were in health, with four that were fick. As ibon as we had iet fail, nine canoes of Indians, with an increafed number of men on board, placed themfelves at a fixed diftance from us, whilft one of them, with only nine chieftains* on board, rowed pretty near to the fide of our veflel, offering us, whilft their bows were unbent, fome handfome jackets, and prac- tifing their former arts of deceit, by tempting us with the provi- fions they had before fupplied. Bur we were now upon our guard, and preparing for our de- fence, though we ftill thought it right on our part to entice them nearer, by fliewing bugles and other trifles, which had as little efFe£l upon our enemies, who contrived however to make figns that we ftiould go on fhore. At laft they were tired of thefe overtures, and knowing the fmall number of our crew, they xnade a fliew of furrounding our veflel ; holding their bows bent againft us. On the other hand, though we had but three on board able to handle a mufquet (viz. our Captain, his fervant, and myfelf) * So the original ; and I conclude the meaning to be, that in this canoe there were none but chieftains. yet [ 499 ] yet we foow killed fix of the Indians, as alfo damaged their They now experienced how much we were able to annoy canoe. them, and feemed to be aftoniftied. They afterwards covered their dead with their jackets, and at laft returned to fuch a dif- tance that we could not reach them with our (hot; in which retreat they were alfifted by the other canoes, who had not before fupported them. They then held a council, which ended in their going back to their village. Our commander, in the mean time, hearing the difcharge of our mufquets, thought we fhould want ammunition, and fent us fome in the launch, in which we caft anchor along fide of the frigate. We then went on board, hoping that we Should be permitted to ufe the launch, land with an armed force, deftroy the villages of the Indians, and try to recover thofe of our own people, who perhaps had hid themfelves in the woods, or had faved themfelves by fwimming. On this point we held a council, at which the commander ftated our dangerous fituation, the difficulties in landing we were to expe£t, both from fea and weather, and the diftance of the village ; he alfo added, that the deftrudion of our people was almofl dlftinftly feen, and therefore that there could be little probability of any one's having efcaped. D. Criftoval de Revilla and D. Juan Perez were of opinion we (hould direftly fail, although the commander '' and myfelf prefled taking fome revenge for the butchery of our comrades, as llkewife waiting to know the fate of thofe who might have I'urvived by fwimming, and who muft neceflarily furrender them- felves to the Barbarians. We alfo dwelt upon the ftrong pre- fumption, that it would be agreeable to his majefty that the In- '' The commander feems to have given different advice before. S s s 2 dians *'^'-Slf»- ■ *,j^*»»«».i "^VJO, ^., ■■•*sieA»^v ■MMMl •9»- ^ [ 500 J dians fhould feel the iuperior force of his arms, who would other- wife treat future difcoverers in the fame manner ; we added, that though the village was not near, yet if we waited till next day we might reach it, whilift it might be expefted that the winds would not blow with violence at the new moon^ The reafons on both fides having been thus urged, the com- mander readily confented to follow the advice and wlflies of the majority. When this point was decided, our commander took our opi- nions with regard to the fchooner's proceeding, as (he was in fo bad plight; when (except D^Crlftoval de Revilla) we all agreed that (he (hould continue to profecute her voyage. Thefe our opi- nions were reduced into writing on the 1 6th. [Thefe are again omitted, as probably uninterefting to the reader : but both the captain of the fchooner,. and the journalift agreeing to proceed;] On the 14th of July we fiiiled, at five in the evening, from this road, which lies in 47. zi N. Lat S the wind being N. W.. and N. N. W. by which we left the coaft, (ieciing S. W.. On the 1 9th our captain received feme letters from Don Juan; Perez (enfign'' of riie fiigate) as llkewife the furgtoii, in which tiiey ftated the then.health of their crew, and deliring our opinion thereon* . [Here follow the anfwers^ of the captain of the fchooner and Maurelle the journalifi, who, to their great credit, perlift in their voyage of diibovery.] I » The longitude is not dated, but by the fliip's recJconing I fiud that tiic W. liongitude from St. Bias was 2i ly,. ^ AU'tre/,, Till «3 . ^. «-.x #-■ - [ 50' ] Till the 24.th the wind continued N. W. & N. when the fchooner received from the frigate a cannon, with a box of powder and ball. From the 24th to the 30th we fleered N.W. when at funfet there were great threatenings of a ftorm, and the weather becom- ing dark, the fea ran fo high, that we could not diftinguifli the lights of the frigate, and were obKged to make our fignals by guns and rockets. On the 31ft it continued to be fo dark that even during the day we could not fee the frigate. On the I ft of Auguft at day-break we had the fame dark wea- tlier, fo that we could notdiftingulfh at half a league's diftance, nor had we fight of the frigate : we kept on however (the wind abating) with a Wefterly courfe, till the 4th, when we fuppofed ourfelves to be 17 leagues W. of the continent. On the 5th the wind began to> be favourable from the S. W. and the frigate ftrll not appearing, our captain confulted us whether we ftiould profecute our difcoveries. We had indeed for the laft two months been reduced to lliort allowance of pro- vifions, and a quart of water each day,.fince we left the laft land ; our bread alfo was almoft fpoiled by the fea getting into the bread- room, and the fcafon for. failing to the Northward began almoft to end. Yet notwithftanding thefe, and other objeftions, we continued unanlmoufly of opinion to execute our orders ; as, if we did otherwife, his majefty muft have incurred the expence of a frelh expedition, Our crew llkewife was now animated, and: every owe agreed to contribute proportionably for a folemn mafs to our Lady of Bethlem, intreating her that we might be able ta- reach the Latitude enjoined by our- hiftruflions. Tliis propofal of the crew being communicated to the captain, he applauded mu. h their ardour and devotion,, which was rewarded befors: evci iu^,, by the winds blowl ig rom afavodrablcqiarter. On vl i, mUf* ' n. ii ri ii mi Mte ■M riH C J02 ] On the loth there was a full moon, and the whid blew frelh from the S. W. On the 13th we conceived curfelves to be hi foundings from the colour of the fea ; at the fame time appeared Orange heads, many flags, many birds, with red feet, breaft, and beak, as alfb many .whales; all which were certain figns of our nearer ap- proach to land. During the 14th and 15th thefe figns increafed, when we found ourfelves in N. Lat. 56, 8. & 154 leagues W. of the con- tinent, and 69 leagues from an ifland to be found in our chart % which likewife pointed out an archipelago in the fame parallel. This fearch however was attended with great difficulty, as the wind blew with great violence, whilft the mifts did not permit us to diftingulfh any diflant objeft. At noon on the 16th we faw land to the N. W. at the diftance of fix leagues, and it foon afterwards opened to the N. E. pre- fenting confiderable headlands and mountains, one of which was of an immenfe height, being fituated upon a projeifling cape, and of the moft regular and beautiful form I had ever fcen. It was alfo quite detached from the great ridge of mountains. Its top Was covered with fnow, under which appeared ibme wide gullies, which continue till about the middle of the mountain, and from thence to the bottom are trees of the fame kind as thofe at Trinity ^ We named this moutain St. Jacinthus ^ and the cape del Engan- no *•, both of which are fituated in N. Lat. 57.2. and by two * I fhould rather fuppofe that this was the chart of D. Juan Perez, who was on board, and had been on a former voyage of dii'covcry. ^ Before defcriljed to be phies. B rherc is a moiiaftery of St. JacinihuSf at a fmall diftance from Mexico. Gigt's Survey of the W. Indies. •» Or of deceit.) repeated 4jij»a-; .-.»i*«iajasf*--*- V — [ S°3 1 repeated obfervations at a mile's diftance we found the W. Long, from St. Bias to be 34. 12. From this cape we fixed the principal points on the coaft, as will appear by our chart. On the 17th the wind blew moderate from the S. by means of which we entered a bay that was three leagues wide at its mouth, and which was proteded from the N. by cape del Enganno; on the oppofite fide to this cape we difcovered a port more than a league wide at the entrance, perfectly fecure from all winds but the S. We nearly approached the fides of this bay, and never found lefs than fifty fathoms in depth ; but we could not perceive any kind of flat or plain, as the mountains come quite down to the fhore. Notwithftanding this we diftinguiftied a fmall river, which (it being night) we did not further attend to, but caft anchor in 66 fathoms, the bottom being a clay, as wc found upon drawing up our anchors. This port is fitvLited in 57. 11 N. Lat. and 34. 12. W.Long, from S. Bias ; which, together with the headland, we named Guadelupe. On the 1 8th we failed again, with little wind ; when two canoes, with four Indians in each, appeared (viz. two men and two womeir) who, however, did not feem to wifli to come on board us, but only made figns that we fliould go on fhore. We continued our courfe however (the wind being N. W."^ till nine in the morning, when we entered another port, not fo large indeed, but the adjacent country much more defirable to navigators, as a river empties itlelf here of eight or ten feet wide, whilft the harbour is protected from almoft every wind, by means of a long ridge of high iflands, almoft joining each other, with anchorage of 1 8 fathoms, the bottom being a fand. Here we caft anchor at a piftol's Ihot from the land, where we faw, on the I 1 u n li ; Mt*^ [ 504 1 the bank of the river, a high houfe, and a parapet ' of ttmher fiipportcd by ftnkcs drove into the ground, where we obferved ten Indian men, befidcs women and children. We named this port de los Remedios^ and found that it v/as fituated in 57. 18 N Lat. and 34. 12 W. Long, from St. Bias. The fame day, having prepared ourfelves for defence againft the Indians, five of us landed about noon, when, having ported ourfelves in the fafeft place we could fix upon, we planted the crofs with all proper devotion, cutting another on a rock '', and difplaying the Spanifti colours, according to our injlrudiions on that head. When we had thus taken pofleflion of the country we ad- vanced quite to the bank of the river, in order to fix ^ipon the moft convenient place for water, which we were in great want of, as well as ftlll greater of wood ; fo that we were under an abfolute necefllty of providing ourfelves with both. Having fixed upon the proper fpot, we now returned to the fhip, the In- dians having not come forth from their parapet. We foou however perceived them approach the place where we had fixed the crofs, which they took away, and fixed it on the front of their houfe, in the proper diredion, whilft at the fame time they made us figns with their open arms, that they had thus taken pofleflion of our crofs. On the 1 9th we landed at a point fomewhat diAant, to procure wood and a maft, whilft we fecured our retreat by a proper dilpofition of fwivels and mufquetry. Afterwards we returned to the mouth of the river, to fill our barrels with water, when the Indians hung out a white leaf '^from ' Probably this was a ftage for curing iidi, of which.thefe Indians foon offered a prefent to the Spaniards. " Penna. [ Oia. we i [ 505 ] a pole, fixed very near to their houfe, and advancing to the op* pofite bank without any arms, they made leveral figns, which we did not comprehend. We however fignlfied to them In the beft manner we could that we came only for water ■" ; on which the chieftain of the Indians, conceiving that we were very dry, brought with him a cup of it, with fbme cured fifh, as far as the middle of the river, where it was received by one of our I'eamen, who diredled the Indian to prefent the water and fifli to our captain, who immediately returned him In exchange bugles and fmall pieces of cloth. The Indians however were not to be {o fatisfied, but infifted on other barter for the water, which we refuHng on our part, they threatened us with long and large lances pointed with flint, which we paid no other attention to but that of fecuring our pofl. Our afTailants at lafl finding that we " The behaviour of thefe Indians in their intercourfe with the Spa- niards feems to prove a rather fuperior degree of civilization, than is ge- nerally experienced from Barbarians. We find by this account, that the Spaniards, having fixed a crofs upon their ground, the Indians refent this mark of ownerfhip, and (as a Spaniard would have done in his own country if his neighbour thus endeavoured to make good a claim) immediately remove the crofs ; in which the laws of Europe would certainly have fupported them. The leaving any fymbol of pofi^efiion upon an uninhabited and uncultivated diftrift may indeed give a right againft pofte-'jr claimants who cannot fet up a better; but this part ofthe f iv .can continent was not only peopled, but we are informed a houfe and fifliing-ftage had been built upon it. We find by this journal, that the Viceroy of Mexico mod particu- larly enjoined by his iaftruAions that poiTefiion Ihould be thus taken, conceiving probably that the converting Indians to the Chriflian faitli, entitles the converter to every thing which may belong to the converts. This flimfy right however could not be maintained an inftant even upon this ground, in any Court of common fenfe, for the Spaniards neither intended then, or hereafter, to make a fettlement in this Norther.i Lati- tude, without which it is irapoffible that fuch pious intentions could be accomplilhed. Ttt The ^1 I 1 1 I i! (4 ( / I If If I [ 506 ] we did not wifh to furroimd them, but held them In contempt, went back to their houfes, as we did to our (hip, having procured the wood and fingle mart which we wanted, though not fo much water as would have been convenient ; but we did not think it right to carry away more, that we might not further irritate the inhabitants. At the mouth of the river there was abundance of fi(h, of which our people caught many whilft we were on fhoar, and we could have procured a fufficient quantity to have lafted us a great while, had we been prepared with proper tackle. They were well tafted, and in vaft numbers. The mountains- were covered with the fame fort of pines as at Trinity: the inhabitants alfo ufe the fame drefs^ only rather longer; they likewife wear a cap over their hair, which covers their whole head. The Spaniards, after thi5> infomi the Indians, by figns, that they want water, on which one of the Americans brings a cup thus filled,, with fome cured filh, half way acrofs the river, and flops there x\W a Spaniard advances the other half to receive it, whilft bugles and other trifles are offered in exchange by the Spaniards, and rcfufed by the Indians, who infift on a better fort of payment. It is evident, by the prcfents of the cup of water * and cured fifli,. that the Indians wiflied to fupply all the wants of thefc ftrangers as far as they were nble, notwithftanding they had thus endeavoured to- gain a wrongful pofic.r.on of their country ; they fcem therefore to have had a right to that fpccies of barter which they ftood moll in need of. This contempt for bugles, and other trifles, ofllrcd by the Spaniards, is a further proof of the civilization of thefe Indians, whofe progeni- tors, it ihould feem, muft be rather looked for on the Afutic, than: Labradore coaft, as I am informed that they have beards, which the Lidians of the central and Eaftcrn coaft of N. America have not. It is faid indeed by fome, that thefc Indians eradicate their beard from its earlieft app?arance ; but I can as little believe that this can be cffefled by any iiuiuftry, as that they could by any art or pains make hair grow upon the palms of their hands. * I am informed, that the inhabitants of K. George's Sound, on tliis fame coaft, infilled upan C.ipt. Cook's paying (or the grafs he hiU tut. 3 Wc i --^ r 507 1 Wc found tlic wcathci* cxccflively colJ, with much rain and fogs, nor did wc fee the fun for the three days we continued here. At the fame time wc had only faint land-breezes ; from all which circumftances, as well as the great fatigue of our feamen, little cover from the bad weather, and great want of proper cloaks to keep them warm, our fliip's company fo fickencd, that we could only mufter two men for every watch. On the 2 1 ft we fteered N. W. the wind being at S. E. iii order to difcover Whether there was any land to the E. when we might reach two degrees of higher latitude to the N. or whether it did not lie to the W. which we conceived to be -more probable. On the 2 2d we knew, by our reckoning, that we muft be near the Eaftern part of the coaft •", as we found ourfelves by an obfer- vation at noon to be in 57. 18 N. Lat. At two in the evening the wind blew frefli at N. W. when we wanted to gain fo much Wefting as to permit the reaching a higher Northern Latitude, in which attempt we muft have there- fore loft many days, whilft the feafou for profecuting our di{^ coveries drew fo near to an end. To this it muft be added, that the ficknefs of our crew increafed every day, by their great fa- tigues, on which account we defifted from our Northern courfe, and ftcercd S. E. approaching the coaft at a lefs diftance than a mile, and endeavouring to obferve every projedion of it. Though we now therefore determined to return to S.Blas, yet we comforted ourfelves in having reached fo high a latitude as 58 ", beyond what any other Navigators had been able to cfFed in thole fcas, though our veffel failed fo indifferently that we often had thoughts of quitting Iter. «" Sc. as laid down by Bellin. " By the table only 57. 57. Capt.Cook however is faid to have traced the W. coaft of America beyond 60 N. Lat. when it runs for feme de- grees nearly E. T 1 1 2 la i 1 1 mmm^^m %^^' ;(? \ [ Jo8 ] In failing along the coad we took indefatigable pains to obi^rve with precifion how it lay, from which innumerable obiedtions offered themfelves to M. Bellin's Charts. This engineer hath chiefly founded himfelf upon the tracks of two Ruflian Navigators, Becring and Tfchirikow, who were fent upon difcoveries in 1741. It is evident however that the Ruflian maps are not to be depended upon, for if they had been tolerably accurate we fhould have fallen in with the land to the Weftward, more eafily than to the Eaft '. Bellin is not lefs erroneous in laying down the American coafi!, and indeed it is not at all extraordinary that his errors fhould be fo numerous, as he had no materials for his charts, but his own fruitful imagination ; no navigator having viiited many parts of the American continent in thefe high latitudes but ourfelves. We now atteaiptcd to find out the (Iraits p of Admiral Fonte, though as yet we had not difcovered the Archipelago of S. Laza- rus, through which he is faid to havt failed. With this intent we fearched every bay and recefs of the coafti and failed round every headland, lying to during the night, that we might not lofe fight of this entrance; after thefe pains taken, and being favoured by aN. W. wind', it may be pro- nounced that no fuch i^raits are to be found. On the 24th at 2 in the evening, and being :n 5^. 17 N. Lat. we doubled a cape, and entered into a large bay, difccvering to • The journalift feems to fpeak here with regard to the then fituation of the fchooner Other objections follow to Bellin's map, which cannot be comprehended without having the chart before one. ' Entrada, or entrance into them rather. In a map which I have nro- cured, this entrance is laid down in N. Lat. 48. and faid to have been difcovered by Juande Fuca in 1^92. 4 It muft now be recolle^ed that the fchboper is returaing to S. Bias. I the • f 5«9 1 the N. an arm of the (ca, where tlie temperature was very unpleafant', but the fca pcrfcftly cahn, being (hcltered from the wind. Thi&arm alfo affords excellent water from rills and pools, whilft the anchorage is good, with a vaA plenty of fi(h. It Ib delineated in one of our charts. As we were now becalmed, the fchooner rowed till we call anchor in the entrance or mouth, the water being 20 fathoms, and the bottom foft mud. At this time we were not more than two mufquet (hots from the land, find wifhed to lay down the interior parts, but were not able to eife£t this for want of winik We now experienced' a pleafant tc nperature, which probably arofe from fome large volcanoes, the light of which we perceived during the night, though at a confiderablc diflance. This \\n* expedlcd warmth totally reftored the health of our crew '. As we thus lay at anchor, and fo much to our fatisfaftion, out Captain gave me orders (being himfelf indifpofed) that I fhould land with fbmeof our crew, and with the fame precautions as at Los Remedies. He alfo dire£ted me to take pofleflion for his Majefty of this part of the coaft^ and name it Bucarelly *. I ac<- cordingly obeyed his inftrudlions in all particulars, without feeing a fingle Indian, though there were the following proofs of the country's being inhabited ; viz. a hut, fome paths, and a ' wooden outhoufe ". On the 24th we went a fecond time ou fhore, and provided ourfelves with as much wood and water as wc wanted. ^ It is to be foppofed on account of the cold. » Itmuft be recolleded, that they wer^ now Iheltered from the wind 1 as well as warmed by the Vulcanoes. » Then Viceroy of Mejiico. • Corral. VVc . / / ^>* t 510 J Wc m:i(lo two ohfcrvations 011 tlirlliviit days, niul fuuiul our Jatltuilc to l)e 55. 17. ami W. Long. tVoni S. Bias 32. 9. The mountains near this port or inlet arc covcrcil with the (i\nio trees asthofc at the other places, where wc hail laiulcd, but I can lay nothing with regard to the inhabitants, from what bath been before ftatcd. To the S. wc faw an illand of a moderate height, at the dif- tancc of fix leagues, which we named S. Carlos, and failed on tlic 29th with a gentle breeze at N. but which fell calm at noon, when we were oppofite to a bare ifland, which fcarcely appeared above the fea ; there are many rocks however, both to the E. and W. Here we anchored in 22 fathoms, and about two leagues diftant from the illand of S. Carlos. In this fituation wc cbferved a Cape, •vhich we named St. Auguftinc, at the diftance of four or five leagues ; after which tiic coaft trended to the E. fo much that we loll fight of it. VVc found alfo that there -,vere here fucli violent currents in oppofite dircftions, that we could not found. As thefe currents rofe and fell with the tide, it fliould fcem that this inlet hath no commu- nication but with the fea. This cape S. Auguftine is nearly in 55 N. Lat. and we having heard that in a former voyage D. Juan Perez had difcovered au arm of the fea in this fame parallel, where there were many cur- rents, we juftly concluded this muft be the fame, though feveral feamcn who were in that voyage, did not recolledl either the cape or mountains in the neighbourhood, but this probably arofc from their not approaching them in the fame direction. What we obferved on this part of the coaft: ftrongly inclined us to have a more pcrfedt knowledge of it; the wind however (it being new moonj became variable, and fixed at laft: m the S, W. Wc it [ 5" ] Wc concluded that it would thus continue till tlic full% wlilch would prevent us from approaching t!ie moutli of tiiis bay, and confcqucntly make it impoflible to explore the fides of it. Wc likewifc confidcrcd that wc were now in fuch a latitude that we might cafily reach 60 degrees if the wind was favourable'', that moreover we were provided with what we had occafion for, that the health of our crews was rc-eftabliflied, and that for all thcfo rcafons it would be better to attempt reaching the hlghcft Latitude wc could. To thefe arguments it was added, that we fliould have fewer dif- ficulties In this trial from our knowledge of the coaft ; and thli mcafurc being thus refolvcd upon, the two (hips dlvidcil fomc deaths' (which the fchooncr had on board, to truck with the In- dians at Port Trinity) fo that our people fccmcd now to have for- gotten all their fuffcrings. We accordingly failed, fbeerlng N. W. On the 28th the wind was variable, obliging us to approach the coaft at $^. 50. wlien it fixed in the evening to the S. W. ac- cording to our wiflies. On the 29th and 30th the wind was S. though often veering to the S. W. \,lth OLcafional fqualls and tornadoes, accom- panied by high feas, which drove us on the coaft in 56 70. from, whence wc clawed off" witii the land breeze and tornadoes, 'n\ which difagrceable fituation wc continued till the firft of Sep- tember. 5 During the two preceding days fix of our crew were fcized with ftrong fymptoms of the fcurvy, which not only flicwed- " The Spaniards, during this voyage, fccm to have paid great attcn- tion to the moon, as having an eff'e*- [ 5»» ] blow from the N. W. to the N. as fiir as r c decrees W '. and which only permit a courfe to theW. N. M. E. or E. S. E. whilft often luch trade whid extends ftill further to the W. Notwithftandlng this circumftance the (hip (hould never lie to, much lefs ftecr Eaflward, as thus die voyage would be much re» tarded. From thefe 1 5 degrees of Wefting, to 30 in the fame direc- 'tion, the wind is generally from N. E. to N. which will permit a N. W. courfe. It may perhaps be advifable even to get a Wefting as far as 35 degrees, if the objc£t of the voyage is to reach ^^. 60. or even 65 '' of Northern Latitude, becaufe the . greater the Wefting, the greater is the certainty of S. & S. W. winds, which will be {o favourable to fuch adeftination. If when this Wefting hath been gained, the winds Ihould prove variable, I ihould ftill advife a N. E. courfe'. Under the fup- -pofition that th? difcovgrer wants to fall in with the coaft of America, in 55 N. Lat. he (hould keep between 35 & 37 W. > Long, till he reaches that Latitude. If, on the contrary, he wants to explore the lame coaft in N. Lat. 60. I ftiould then advife a N. W. courfe to be purfued till he hath gained a Weft- ing of 39 degrees. If the navigator wiflies. to make difcoveries even fo high as 6^ N. Lat. I conceive that he (hould then have a wefting of 45 degrees, when he hath gained this parallel. With thefe precautiwis I imagine that the perfevering navigator -would accomplifli the height of his wi(hes. ' i. e. probably from S. Bias. •• It appears by the Journn', t'.iat they were inftrudled to proceed thus far N. if poflible, which itlea was probably taken from Ellis's Pre- face to the N.W. Pafla^e, mauj' extradts from which are made by Venegas, in his Hiftory ot California^ and particularly what- relates to this fuppofed Latitude of 65. . .,• ' en cl pr'mer quadrant e, as I conceive the Spaniards make the N. E. the firft (quarter ; the S. E, the fecond % the S. W. the third j and the N. W. the fourth, Xxx As f 522 ] As accidents however will happen in all voyages, which may drive the fliip upon the coaft in a lower latitude, I would then by all means advife to gain a Wefting, as far as 200 leagues from the land. But it muft be remembered that at perhaps 150 leagues W. the wind may be variable, though I am confident it cannot be depended upon, as favourable for any time, and would foon veer to the N. W. For thefe reafons I hold it to be abfo- lutely neceflary, that a wefting of at leafl 200 leagues (hould be procured, till N. Lat. 50 is reached. If the (hip is blown upon the coaft in lower latitudes, the crew not only fuffers commonly from fatigue and ficknefs, but fo much time is loft, that winter comes on before the great objeft of fuch a voyage can be compleated. I would therefore advife failing from S. Bias at the end of January, or at lateft the beginning of February ; and for this additional reafon, that the crew would not fuffer fo much from change of temperature in the different climates, if without ftopping in any lower latitude, they at once come upon the coaft of America in 55. Here they might reft a little from their fatigues, procure water, recorer by that fine air ^ if indifpofed ; befides, that in this latitude there would be no occafion to lofe time in procuring a further Wefting, as here the winds are very variable. It need be fcarcely faid, that the knowing the weather, which commonly prevails in thefe feas, is of much importance to navi- gators ; and it is ftill lefs neceflary to advife, that particular at- tention ftiould be paid to the appearances in the horizon which * The port of los Remedios is here alluded to, which is in 57. 18. and where the crew recovered very faft from the warmth of the air, at-t tributed to Vulcanoes in the neighbourhood. S. Bias, being in N. Lat. 22. is confequently more cool in January than perhaps any month of the year, whilft they would be in 55 perhaps at Midfummer. threaten \ • .'; * • T < [ 5^3 1 threaten a florm. Tliefe liowever are not much to be appre- hended till N. Lat. 40. as between S. Bias and that parallel, fuch lowering clouds either difperfe thcmfclves very loon, or fall iii rain, which lulls the fea. From 40 to 50 degrees N. (fuppofing the fhlp to havp gained a Wefting of 200 leagues from the American coaft,) thefe ap- pearances are more to be watched, as in thefe latitudes the S. wind blows frefti, though pretty conftant. It is to be obferved alfo, that the S. W. in thefe parallels is fometimes ftronger than the S. for which reafon I would advife not to carry much fail. This laft precaution is ftill more ncceffary in higher latitudes than 50, fince the S. W. often blows fo violently that it is pru- dent to lie to, as thefe fqualls do not laft for any time. I alfo particularly advife the navigator to guard againft the efFefts of winds from the E. which fometimes are violent in thefe latitudes ; not but that fometimes W. winds are equally blufter- ing, yet they are not fo common, nor laft fo long. It {hould alfo be noticed, that the higher the latitude, the more fuch wea- ther is to be apprehended. When the coaft of America is very near, there is no regular wind but the N. W. and this holds to the Southward from 54 N. Lat. it fometimes blows indeed frefti from this quarter, but there is no objedtion to this, when the fliip is on its return •. The fea from S. Bias to 40 degrees N. Lat. runs commonly high, when the wind is at N. W. or N. but as it does not often blow with violence from this quarter, thefe feas are generally * It muft be remembered, that for this reafon the Journalift acivifes the navigator who wants to reach a high N. Latitude, to gain fo large a Wefting from the coaft of America. XXX 2 navigable. "'■^BiMtwaaMMMlM [ 5^4 ] 'f n.ivlgnhlo. From I.nt. 40 to 50 Cwhcn near the coafl) the fla often runs {till higher, meeting tlic tide from the (hoar, but I cli> not mean to raife too great apprclicnfionr, on this account. At the ilirtance however of 100 leagues from tlie coaft the feas are often dill heavier ; fo that I would advifc lying to, if the wind is not favourable. From 50 degrees upwards the feas rife proportionably with the winds, particularly if they blow from the S. or S. W. but foon become calm when the weather clears* [Here follow fome obfervatlons, wkh regard to tlic eff*e£l of tlic moon upon the weather, which I fhall not tranflate, as the influence of this planet in fuch refpedl feems now to be mucii exploded.] f As approaches to the coaft ought always to put the navigatoi* on his guard, he may depend upon the following figns for its not being far diftant. When the coaft is about 80 or 90 leagues to the E. thofe fea- plants appear whicli I have before called Orange bends ; but I muft now add, that from the ftate of them, as they float, one may fometimes infer, that the land is not fo far dJftant. Its figure much refembles the fiilular ftalk of garlick* ; and from the top of its head hang fome long leaves, by which the plant H fixed to the rocks. Now if thcfe leaves are tolerably perfeft, they afford a flrong prefumption, that they have not floated far from tlie coaft. Oji the contrary, thofc which have been wafted to a confiderable diftance, have generally loft this head, and the ftalk becomes more rough, when you may fup- pofe that you arc 50 leagues from the land. • The appearance of this plant on the coaft of California, is noticed in Lord Anfor/s Vo}-:i[je. 6 At • I «■ p«iW* »■•- ^ \ .A •'. \a ^\«> / • M \.7\ ■> V> > \ \ ■ ' N. ^ " N i i '■ * ■ ■ '■ ' ■^" - ^ ^^w ii f V^ "l l^l^. mtlH- ^!,**4tJ' ■2_J"")".Rtli!* !■ >..' m ■S5 I -y^ Ik r> RhAM f LJt'iAy At the fame diftance the fea heghis to indicate, by its colour, that you are in foundings, but this circumftance requires fome attention and habit ; when you are not more than 30 or 40 leagues from the coaft, this appearance is much more dlftin- guilhable, though if you was to caft anchor you would not find any bottom. In this fame fituation you will likewile perceive birds, fea-wolves ^^ otters, and whales, together with the plant Zacate del Mar before-mentioned, which hath long and narrow leaves. When thefe circumftances are obferved, you may depend upon feeing liand the fame day, or that following. At the fame time you will perceive, that the fea is of an iron colour, and looks as if it had fmall boats, with fails upon the furface^, whilft birds refembling lories, with a red head, bill, and legs, fly around ; their body is black. As concealed fhoals are often fb dangerous to the navigator, I think 1 may pronounce you may fall in perfect fafety at the dif- tance of a league from the mofl fufpicious parts of this whole coaft. o If the difcoverer fhould firft put into port in N. L. 55* 17. he will find an inlet'', which hath good-foundings in all parts of it towards the N. and perhaps tlie befl'polnt' of the whole coafl, if the Ihip keeps at the diftance of three leagues from it. ^ I J 177?. Dav of the Month July I 2 3 4 5 6 9 10 II 12 '3 14 15 16 »7 18 »9 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 28 29 30 3» Latitude by reckoning 41 2 47 »7 43 25 . 44 31 44 27 44 24 46 10 46 59 47 44 47 45 48 32 48 I 47 41 47 24 47 23 47 20 47 17 47 3 46 34 46 18 46 6 45 50 45 44 45 51 46 4 46 34 47 6 47 45 48 10 47 21 46 SS Latitude by . obffrwtion 41 I 42 15 43 24 47 3 47 37 47 ZS 48 26 47 39 47 28 47 20 47 7 47 '3 47 9 46 32 46 26 46 17 45 57 45 44 45 41 45 52 46 9 46 32 47 5 47 40 47 50 47 21 W. Long. from San Blai 26 14 26 49 26 50 26 30$ 26 10 25 47 26 6 25 47 24 20 23 281 22 »7 21 53 21 34 21 19 21 40 22 3 22 22 23 32 24 28 25 29 27 5 28 18 29 24 30 32 29 59 29 52 29 19 29 41 28 44 29 32 130 9 Variation of the Needle ^3 '4 15 16 7 30 '7 16* »5 16* Dift. from the coaft of America 100 90 70 SI 47 32 26 12 10 6 2 9 ^7 18 35 50 61 82 100 "5 124 120 199 117 103 92 102 II 1.; I 7 id C 531 ] Day of the Month Aug. I 2 3 4 5 6 9 10 II 12 13 14 15 16 ;i »9 2D 21 22 23 24 25 26 2 2 29 30 3« , Latitude by reckoning 46 34 46 45 46 40 46 29 46 47 47 49 48 26 48 39 49 " 50 18 5» 24 52 18 53 39 54 58 55 53 56 43 56 54 57 21 51 55 57 »o 56 I 55 17 56 6 55 36 55 55 56 21 56 41 Latitude \V. Long. Variation ''/ . from of flic oblervation San Bias Needle 30 56 16 46 40 . 31 52 46 35 32 46 46 16 33 39 46 47 34 5 47 50 34 6 48 24 34 12 34 7 17* 49 9 34 7 34 54 18 5t 34 34 58 52 27 3^ . 19 53 54 35 26 ^^ 4 36 7 56 8 35 47 56 44 35 15 57 2 35 27 35 27 « 57 57 38 2 30 57 8 35 50 22* 33 46 24* 55 17 33 24 55 6 33 22 24 34 39 23* 55 55 34 32 35 56 47 35 32 Dirt, from ihe coaftof America '3» 141 157 '57 171 164 159 156 154 160 ^58 161 166 154 4 2 I 3 X s \M % f S32 J "'e Afonth W.Long. ,'rofn San Blat of the ,h •'t°'" _ / 'imerica «S*3"~'^ [ S33 3 Day of the Month Oft. I 39 »7 2 38 49 3 38 16 4 3« i6 s 37 54 6 37 45 I 36 43 36 46 f I Latitude reckoning Latitude by obfervatton 39 15 38 49 38 16 38 16 37 53 37 43 30 42 W. Long, from Sun Bias 20 26 19 5 2 22 »9 19 10 24 19 4 18 47 17 17 Viriaticn of the Needle iT 16 16 16 »5 '5 H »4 Dift. from the coall of America 7 3 Zzz -->', » [ 534 ] ' 1 '77.<-. Dayot the Muoth Nov. 3 3 4 5 6 7 8 10 II 12 «5 i6 ;^ 19 20 LatUuile reckooiDg 36 44 36 28 36 6 34 41 32 50 30 56 29 32 28 28 27 26 52 21 16 16 25 18 ^4 53 24 15 23 2 22 20 ai 54 21 45 21 36 Laittuilc W.Long. I'y . from obfervation SanBliu 36 42 »7 5 17 27 36 11 17 42 34 36 17 25 32 48 16 58 30 57 16 2 15 '8 14 45 «7 52 14 13 27 8 13 26 26 12 12 13 25 16 10 46 n 37 8 58 24 I 6 56 23 5 25 22 22 4 3 *» 53 2 38 21 44 46 21 34 2 Variatioa of ihe Needle 14 13 12 II 10 7 7 7 ? 6 6 5 5 5 5 Did. from ihe coaft of America I 8 23 4« 46 45 42 35 24 10 li 40 10 3 '5 AI> '£**.,