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The following diagrams illustrate the method: Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent dtre filmte A des taux de reduction diff^rents. Lorsque ie document est trop grand pour Atre reproduit on un seul clich4, 11 est filmi A partir de i'angle supArieur gauche, de gauche d droite, et de haut en bas. en prenant le nombre d'images nAcessaire. Les diagrammes suivants iiiustrent la m^thode. errata I to t i pelure, on d n 1 2 3 32X 1 2 3 4 5 6 Ac A Si ROCKY EDI' Across the Continent: A Stage Ride Over the Plains, TO THB ROCKY MOUNTAINS, THE MORMONS, AND THE PACIFIC STATES, \ii THE SUMMER OF 1865, WITH SPEAKER COLFAX. By SAMUEL BOWLES, EDITOR OF THE SPRINGFIELD (MASS.) REPUBLICAN. NEW EDITION. SPRINGFIELD, MASS. : SAMUEL BOWLES & COMPANY. NEW YORK: HUPD & HOUGHTON. 1869. PI^V' 4- IN Speaket Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1865, by SAMUEL BOWLES & COMPANY, In the Clerk's Office of the District Court for the District of Massa- chusetts. jo < i^wr SAMUEL BOWLES AND COMPANY, Printers and Binders, My Dear It was s( summer, — all mysteri kinder weli go along wi skies for tl cnces. Be ship gave i first sugges be prt toge and your q statistic. ! charm of y thor-land. You kno the first wli the countr wants, and our duties \ 1 •ess, in the year 1865, by : COMPANY, irt for the District of Massa- Introductory Letter TO THE Hon. SCHUYLER COLFAX, speaker of the United States Home of Representatives. My Dear Mr. Colfax; — It was so pleasant anc' o profitable to travel with you during the summer, — your amiability and your popularity so readily unlocked all mysteries, and made all paths so straight; even Nature gave kinder welcome to your progress . than her wont ; that I would fain go along with you still farther, and ensure by your presence summer skies for this story of our observations, this record gf our experi- ences. Besides, the book is more yours than mine. Your friend- ship gave me the opportunity for the travel ; your favoring thought first suggested to me the then strange idea that the Letters should be prt together into a volume ; and your wide and close observatioa and your quick insight helped me to much of the material and the statistic. So I may riglitly claim the favor of your name, and the <:harm of your company, in this new and unexpected trip into au- thor-land. You know how strange it seemed to us that our party were almost the first who had ever traveled Across the Continent simply to see the country, to study its resources, to learn its people and their wants, and to acquit ourselves more intelligently, thereby, each in our duties to the public, — you in the Government, and we as JDur- J_ IV INTRODUCrORY LETTER nalists. How slrange, too, the idea was to the people along our route. They could not well believe that we did not come on a selfish mission of some sort; s-me secret governmental service; to see how they could best be taxed ; to locate the I'acific Railroad ; to make a bargain with the Mormons ; to regulate the politics of the distant States, — it least to speculDte in mines, and buy corner lots. When the fact was realized, while the many felt gratified and flattered, and showed such feeling in a hospitality that had no meas- ure, tl re were some, you remember, who could not repress the genuine American contempt for whatever is not tangible and real and money-making; and I am afraid we passed in not a few minds for what, in mining vernacular, are known as "bummers." So I could hardly realize, until I examined the subject, that there vas in our literature no connected and complete account of this great Western HMf ofour Continent People had visited itin plenty; i*s whole population, indeed, is drawn from the East; scholars are abundant on the Pacific Coast, — indeed, it in claimed J5 fact that San Francisco and vicinity hold more rollege graduates, in proportion to population, than any other city in ;he country; but they have gc.^c with other objects than to see, to study, and to descibe ; they are dealing with materialities, and, as a rule, have taken little time to look about them, loid observe the fantastic fashions of Nature, to worship the majestic beauty, to comprehend the varied resources of an Empire, that belong to their new Home. Starr King had written home of a few singH features in California scenery; ^ .. Hcj.jws came back penetrated with wide and deep sense of the marvels he had seen, but the public only got glowing address and magazine article or two from him in detail ; Fitzhugh Ludlow created wider interest by his brilliant but few and disconnected papers in the "Atlantic Monthly," on special themes in the journey ; and the pen- cil of his artist-companion, Bierstadt, has caught the glow and the inspiration and the majesty of some chief natural wonders in these distant regions, and spread them on immortal canvass, to excite i» world's wonder and whet a world's curiosity. But only enough had 1 .ETTER 15 to the people along our lat we did not come on a ;t governmental service ; to DCate the Pacific Railroad; to regulate the politics of ; in mines, and buy corner the many felt gratified and ospitality that had no meas- who could not repress the :r is not tangible and real 5 passed in not a few minds m as "bummers," lined the subject, that there mplete account of this great I had visited it in plenty; i's >m the East; scholars are it id claimed as fact that San graduates, in proportion to )untry ; but they have go ^c , and to desc-ibe ; they are ;, have taken little time to istic fashions of Nature, to end the varied resources of le. Starr King had written )mia scenery; t.. iIcuJWS :ep sense of the marvels he ring address and magazine lugh Ludlow created wider lisconnected papers in the 1 the journey ; and the pen- is caught the glow and the ef natural wonders in these imortal canvass, to excite ? )sity. But only enough had TO SPEAKER COLFAX V been written, only enough was known of the Nature, of the material resources, of the social and industrial development of these vast Plains and Mountains between the Mississippi River and the Pacific Ocean, to make market for more. So we have open field for our story, and hungry market for our harvest. So my Letters arc rescued from the destined oblivion of daily journalism to figure i - covers. You will see that they bear substantially their original shape. Here and there is an addition; here and there, an irrelevant para- graph is excised ; but they serve better to convey true ideas of the country we passed through, in preserving the freshness of the orgi- nal compofi'ion. They are not a *Jiary of a personal journey; nor a Guide-Uook; nni a HandUook of statistics; but they aim to give, with compactness and comprehensiveness, the distinctive ex" perif nces of the Overland Journey; to describe, as vividly as I may, the various origins' scenery that the route and the country offer; to portray the social and material developments of the several States and Territories we visited,— their present and their futur*, their realization and their capacity; and to develop to the people of the East and to the Government their share in the interests and hopes of the West, — what duties thev had to perform, what benefits they might hope to reap. It was a large field to cover with the travel and the study of a single sumnier , to see, collate and digest the ma- terials of half a Continent ; bu j never did travelers find more gener- ous facilities than we ; and to r/pportunity, such as was never granted to others, we certainly brought intelligent interest and enthusiasm, and the trained eyes and ears and the educated instincts of journal- ism. We certainly brought, too, independence and integrity to our observation ; and in all essential affairs, our conclusions were sin- gularly coincident So we ha- s assumed the responsibility and earned the duty of Truth-speak \g. And on thos? great, pressing public themes of the Pacific Railroad, the Mormons, and the Mines, I would have you bespeak for my revelations and discussions the attentive ear of the B I ^^i vl INTRODUCTORY LETTER eastern public. Neither Government nor people seem half alive to the pressing importance of either, The Railroad is, indeed, the great work of the day ; the great want, the great revealer, the great creator of this Empire of ours west of the Mississippi. It is cheer- ing to find that, since we went over the Plains, labor upon the eastern end of this Koad has had a new impetus ; to learn that new elements of capital and enterprise have become engaged ; and that on both the two main branches, from Kansas City and from Umaha, the Road is worked for sixty miles west of the Missouri, and by spring will be opened for one hundred. But I find no proper con- ception in the East of the progress which should and may be attained in the work. A hundred miles a season seems to be re- garded as great achievement; whereas the company, that takes more than two years to cross the Plains and reach the Rocky Moun- tains, is unworthy its charter, recreant to its generous trusts. There M no vanity in demanding the completion of the entire line in five years; what is being done on the Sierra Nevadas proves this; there is only wanton waste of wealth, only stubborn disregard and neglect of great national responsibilities in being longer about it. With regard to the Mormons, too, we all saw that the time had come for a new departure, for a new policy by the Government. The conflict of sects and civilization, growing up there in Utah, will soon solve the polygamous problem, — rightly and without blood- shed, — if the Government will make itself felt in it with a wise guardianship, a tender nursing, a firm principle. I rely on you, also, to enforce my cautions on the subject of Mining. That great interest is in danger of real injury from feverish speculation, and false and unwise investments. Of the wealth of the regions we visited, in gold and silver ore, no adequate conception can be formed or expressed ; the mind stands amazed before its revelations ; but it does not lie around loose on the sur- face of the grc ind, and is not to be exploited in brokers' offices in Wall Street and "The City." Patient and intelligent labor, in fields well-chosen for their nearness to markets and to supplies, with capital ai success ii Pacific Ri in the bu.< ore. Th< ble returr in connec vided its integrity, victim of try and G New ar all our Pa successful mining e» cific but t Rightly di growth, gi that leave us, who ki predecess In Natl country oi eminent the marve rare effect as were sf the moun scenery e! through ii as Puget's pressive tl so fine an( fornia's; i FTER TO SPEAKER COLI'AX. vU people seem half alive to Railroad is, indeed, the great revealer, the great Mississippi. It is cheer- Plains, labor upon the petus ; to learn that new come engaged ; and that u City and from Umaha, of the Missouri, and by ut I find no proper con- ich should and may be season seems to be rc- he company, that takes 1 reach the Rocky Moun- I generous trusts. There of the entire line in five a Nevadas proves this; ' stubborn disregard and I being longer about it. ill saw that the time had licy by the Government, ing up there in Utah, will ;htly and without blood- If felt in it with a wise iciple. itions on the subject of ger of real injury from se investments. Of the id silver ore, no adequate the mind stands amazed around loose on the sur- lited in brokers' offices in intelligent labor, in fields ts and to supplies, with capital and skill and integrity, are the inevit.ible laws of great success in mining. The first neod of our mining regions is the Pacific Railroad, to equalize prices and enforce morals and system in the business ; the second is improved processes for working the ore. These gained, and no interest is likely to make more valua- ble returns for well-invested capital and labor. A Mining IJureau in connection with the Government is a desideratum, always pro- vided its head shall be a man of special intelligence and divine integrity. A charlatan and a rascal, or one prone to become the victim of such, would make such an institution a curse to both coun- try and Government. New and valuable mineral discoveries are rapidly being made in all our Pacific .States; the season has been one of industrious and successful prospecting; ami we are apparently on the eve of a new mining excitement which shall, this time, take in not only the Pa- cific but the Atlantic as well, and ,veep over the seas to Europe. Rightly directed and restrained, this will prove great impetus to our growth, great source to our wealth ; but it is a whirlwind, after all, that leaves many a wreck in its passing. And woe be to those of us, who know the perils of the storm, who have seen the fields of its predecessors, if we unworthily fan its power 1 In Natural Wonders and Beauties, as in rare gifts of wealth, the country of our Summer Journey stands out prominent and pre- eminent Neither the Atlantic States nor Europe offer so much of the marvelous and the beautiful in Nature ; offer such strange and rare effects, — such combinations of novelty, beauty and majesty, — as were spread before us in our ride Across the Continent, through the mountains, and up and down the valleys. No known river scenery elsewhere can rival that of the Columbia, as it breaks through the Continental mountains ; no inland seas charm so keenly as Puget's Sound; no mountain effects are stranger and more im- pressive than those the Rocky and the Sierras offer; no atmosphere so fine and exhilarating, so strange and so compensating as Cali- fornia's; no forests so stately and so ineihaustible as those pf INTRODUCTORY LETTER Washington ; no trees »o majestic and so beautiful as ttje Sc(|UuU Gigantca ; — aye, and no Vision of Apocalypse so grand, so full of ikwe, to full of elevation, as the Yo Semite Valley I Does not that vision,— that week under the shadows of those wonderful rocks,— by the trickle and the roll of those marvelous water-falls, — stand out before all other sights, all other memories of this summer, crowded as it is with various novelty and l)cauty ? The world may well be challenged to match, in single sweep of eye, such impressive natural scenery as this. Trofessor VVlllTNKV tells us that higher domes of rock and deeper chasms are scattered along the Sierras, farther down the range ; but he also testifies that, in combination and in detail, in vriety and majesty and beauty of rock formations, and in accompanying water-falls, there is no rival to, no second Yo Semite. There will be many to come after us in this Summer's Journey, partly inspired by the pleasure of our experience, chiefly incited by the increased smoothness of the ways. The projecting arms of the Continental Railway will rapidly shorten the distance at both ends. Rival and improved stage lines, new and pleasanter stage routes, surer and better accommodations at the stations, more fre- qucnt opportunities for rest, all will speedily come, with protection from the Indians, which Government cannot longer neglect ; and even another season, I anticipate such facilities for the Overland Passage, as will invite hundreds where one has heretofore gone, and make the journey as comfortable and convenient for ladies even, as it will be safe and Instructive for all. Great as the triumphs of staging which our experience has witnessed this summer, they are but the taste and the forerunner of what will be organized and per- %cted for the overland travel within two years. But will any of our successors share such welcome, receive such hospitality, as was ours ? It can hardly be. The thought of it all, its extent and its unexpectedness, produces a sense of unsatisfying gratitude. I have done what I could, in these Letters, to repay this wide-spread kindness? by making the country, its people and its interests 1 Truth, — n yet it wen tures, all i with a mai friends an from bluff banners y^ River, on i and Farmt welcome tt divine hun dried their fading eyes (Jatc, on th sailors, wh and back it And for ' SrRiNr.riKi Dtcembtr UTTER > beautiful as t1)e Sc(|u<i!;i ilypsc so grain), so full of !e Valley I Docs not that those wonderful rocks, — vclous water-falls, — stand icmories of this summer, Ijcauty ? The world may :fpof eye, such impressive TNKY tells us that higher lattcred along the Sierras, tifies that, in combination beauty of rock formations, is no rival to, no second n this Summer's Journey, lericnce, chiefly incited by The projecting arms of orten the distance at both new and pleasanter stage at the stations, more fre> dily come, with protection nnot longer neglect ; and 'acilities for the Overland le has heretofore gone, and venient for ladies even, as Great as the triumphs of sed this summer, they are will be organized and per- years. uch welcome, receive such be. The thought of it all, :es a sense of unsatisfying these Letters, to repay this ountry, its people and its TO SPEAKER COLFAX. ix interests better known to the East. They need nothing but the Truth,— none of tlicni asked us to tell other than the Truth. And yet it were impossible adequately to represent all the strange fea- tures, all the rare capacities of this new half of our N.ition. So, with a margin still .igainst me, let this book go through you to our friends and benefactors of the Mountains and the I'acific Coast; from bluff Hen Hollad.iy and his gallant knight, Otis, under whose banners we ventured out among the Indians from the Missouri River, on through Saint and Sinner, Gentile and Mormon, Miner and Farmer, gallant men and ladies fair, who gave us everywhere welcome to store o." knowledge, to every material comfort, to every divine humanity of head and heart,— on to our tender friends, who dried their wet handkerchiefs in the morning breeze bcfdre the fading eyes of niy wifeless comp.inions, as we swept out the Golden Gate, on that cool .September d.iy ; farther on, indeed, to the gallant sailors, who bore us on summer seas down the Continent's side, and back its mate, to Home I And for you and I, my friend,— " When you next do ride abroad. May I be there to see." SrRiNnriRLD, Mass., Decembtr 15, 1863. I am, yours, very faithfully, SAMUEL BOWLES. > / Y ' Pr£F i But littl 1 letter to th then thoug it the public, ■" work is no\ ii tiie iron ra 1 undertakin; 1|_ valed. It I of the Repi 1 Travel will new nature by the East every fibre so unexpecl ;i! of what lies ;|1 continue to ;l ■ terest and 1 that the co 1 ' * mand, the p 1 it at a lowei . ■ omitted; ai ■ never be rei { place to th( i stiil a guide Preface to the New Edition. But little more than three years have gone since, in the prefatory letter to this book, the author said, — wildly as nearly every reader then thought,— that the Pacific Railroad could, and, in the ni<me of the public, demanded that it should, be built within five year» The work is now complete; and the Continent is spanned and bound by the iron rails of steam service. It is a work that, in majesty of undertaking and rapidity of execution. Civilization has never ri- valed. It opens a new era in the social, intellectual and business life of the Republic, as well as in the commercial history of the world. Travel will pass freely back and forth from Atlantic to Pacific ; the new nature and the new wealth of the West will be eagerly sought by the East ; and the Nation and its People will be stimulated in every fibre of thought, feeling and action. These letters, originally so unexpectedly welcomed as a fresh revelation and faithful portrait of what lies between the Missouri River and the Pacific Ocaen, still continue to be bought and read by the public; and as the new in- terest and increased travel in all that vast and wonderful region, that the completion of the Railroad creates, promise a fresh de- mand, the publishers present this new and revised edition, and offer it at a lower price. Nothing valuable in the first edition has been omitted; and though most of the experiences here narrated can never be repeated,— the slow and painful stage travel having given place to the exhilarating speed of the locomotive,— the volume is still a guide to what 's best to be seen and experienced in a journey F i Xll PREFACE TO NEW EDITION. across the Continent, '^ts nature is still the same ; its society has but little modified ; tl»e problems of I' 'rmonism and mining con- tinue to have the same provoking yet fascinating interest, — and to these the book owes its chief vitality and widest attraction. The author hopes he has done something towards interesting the great Eastern and Western sections of the Republic in each other; to- wards joining them together in both the iron and the gold bonds of the Pacific Railroad ; and, more and deeper, towards their marriage in feelings of mutual respect and affection, and in the close-holding ties of an enlightened, broad-spreading .lelf-interest. In their per- manent union, affectionate rivalry and common growth, rest, to- day, the richest hope and the firmest faith of Civilization. . Springfield, Mass., March, i86> . FROM M behind Men o since— Historj over tl Journe Indian FROM TJ ney thi —The' and its em Car Hail, ai I THROUGl tinaouG ture— 1 the Coi How w Red M, Plains- ter— Pa tion ani THE ROC among i ioa— Lo Hounta EDITION. I the same ; its society has 'rmonism and mining con- iscinating interest, — and to nd widest attraction. The wards interesting the great epublic in each other; to- : iron and the gold bonds of per, towards their marriage }n, and in the close-holding self-interest. In their per- common growth, rest, to- th of Civilization. i Index to Contents. LETTER I. PAGE. FROM MASSACHUSETTS TO THE MISSOURI.— The Railroad Ride liehind; the Stage Ride before— Spanning the Continent— Vitality of Men of the West— The Chicago Wigwam five years ago: History since— Cleveland and Chicago, and their new Life— Atchison and its History and its Position— Pomeroy and Stringfellow— The Trade over the Plains— Speaker Colfax and his party for the Overland Journey— The Indians break the Line— Senator Foster and the Indian Question— Agriculture in the West— Coach off; Good-bye, . , 1 LETTER II. FROM THE MISSOURI TO THE PLATTE.— Atchison to Fort Kear- ney through Kansas and Nebraska— General Connor and no Indians —The "Galvanized Yankee" Soldiers— How we Rode— The Country and its Fascinations— The Scenery and the Atmosphere— The Mod- ern Caravans on the Plains— A Storm of Thunder and Lightning and Hail, and how we weathered it, lo LETTER III. THROUGH THE PLAINS TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS.— A con- tinuous five days' Stage Ride— The Plains the great National Pas- ture—The Platte River— Climate and Soil— Natural Highway across the Continent— A natural Road-bed— Population of the Region- How we Pared- Prices on the Plains and at Denver— "The noble Red Man," aud our Preparations for him— Life and Death on the Plains— The Prairie Dogs and their Companions— The Alkali Wa- ter—Parting Breakfast with General Connor at Julesburg- His Posi- tion and History— Reception at Denver, 18 LETTER IV. THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS AND THEIR GOLD MINES.— A Week among the Mountain!) and In the Mines— The Switzerland of Amcr- ioa— Long's Peak and Pike's Peak— Bierstadt's "Storm in the Rocky Mountains"— Theater of the Gold Development on Clear Creek— XIV INDEX TO CONTEN'^S. Central City, Black Hawk, Nevada— Condition and Prospeets of th« Business— Mysteries of the Sulphurites— Speculating Companies— The Gold Production of Colorado— Reports from Idaho and Mon- tana—The United States the Treasury of the World— Questions of the Future, *> LETTER V. OF PERSONS. NOT THINGS.— Reception in Colorado— Grand Gala Supper to Mr. Colfax— Pen Portraits of the Party: Mr. Colfax, Gov- ernor Bross, Mr. Richardson, Mr. Otis— Social Life in the Rocky Mountains— The Young Men and the Young Women— Ben Holladay and his Stages— Famous Rides across the Plains 43 LETTER VI. SUNDAY IN THE MOUNTAINS.- Broad Church in the West-Mr. "Lo, the poor Indian"— A Day and a Night at Virginia Dale; its Scenery and its Landlady— Colorado and its People— Movement for State Government— A Mining Story : General Fitz John Porter, Smith and Parmelee, Judge Harding— Lack of "Help" in the Homes— The Blossoming of Eastern Fashions— Lack of Horticulture— Necessity of Irrigation— Canned Fruits and Vegetables— Prices of Food in Col- orado and Montana- Vernacular of the Mountains, M LETTER VII. PROM DENVER TO SALT LAKE-THROUGH THE ROCKY MOUN- TAINS.— The Indians in our Path— Robberies and Murders on the Stage Line— What shall be done with them?— The Quaker Policy versus General Connor's Policy— Our Escape and our Faith— Wild Game on the Route; Antelopes, Elk, Trout, Bears, Sage Hens, etc.— The Desert of the Mountains- The Sage Brush— The Bittor Creek Country— Through Bridger's Pass to the Pacific Slopes— A Night Ride over the Pass— The Curious Architecture of Winds and Sands— The "Church Butte," and its Wonders— Fort Bridger— Arrival at Great Salt Lake City, LETTER VIII. THE WAY INTO tJTAE: RECEPTION BY THE MORMONS.— Ba- sin of the Great Salt Lake— The Home of the Mormons— Their Triumphs— Ride among the Wasatch Mountains— Playing Snowball i among Flowers— Yellow the Favorite Color of Nature— Echo Can- yon: its Beauties and its Ruins— The Valley of the Jordan— The City of Salt Lake: its Location and its Promise- Mr. Co'fax's Re- ception by Soldier and Saint— The Hospitality of the Mormons^ Excursion to Great Salt Lake— Strawberries and a Mormon Harem- Interview with Brigham Young: How he Looked and Acted— Heber 0. Kimball, Dr. Bemhisel and other Church' Elders— The Anti Mormons, or Gentiles, and what they are Doing— Death of Governor Doty " 6T MORMON Lake Cit; Great Sa of the C< the Mori Utah— Tl Stockton SALT LAK of the » Hot Sulp their Usi chants — 1 chant's— anoe — Br THE POL'S Mormoni Mormc -i fore thi. towards Polygam: ham You anew R< and the I THE MORI The Mor The Chil Wives — 1 Mormon by Brighi fax's Eul ney and ( SOCIAL Lr of Polygf Coat-Tail good thii some Wo The Sole Young—] Sandwicl 1 PA0I. m and Prospects of thu >eculating Oompanioa— from Idaho and Mon- le World— Questioua of SO Colorado — Grand Gala Party: Mr. Colfax, Gov- lial Life in the Rocky Women— Ben Holladay lains, 43 iroh in the West— Mr. it at Virginia Bale; its 1 People — Movement for Fitz John Porter, Smith Ip" in the Homes— The Horticulture- Necessity —Prices of Food in Col- utains. [. I THE KOCKY MOUN- les and Murders on the nT— The Quaker Policy le and our Faith— Wild Bears, Sage Hens, etc. — rush— The Bitt«r Creek fie Slopes— A Night Eide Winds and Sands— The ridger— Arrival at Great 66 6T I. THE MOEMONS.— Ba- )f the Mormons— Their itains— Playing Snowball ■ of Nature— Echo Can- ley of the Jordan— The omise— Mr. Co' fax's Re- ility of the Mormons^ and a Mormon Harem — loked and Acted— Heber rch' Elders— The Anti ting— Death of Governor T9 INDEX TO CONTENTS. LETTER IX. XV MSI. MORMON MATERIALITIES.- Irrigation und its Results— The Salt Lake City Gardens— Wonderful Crops of Grain— The Mysteries of Great Salt Lake— Extent of the Mormon Settlements— Navigation of the Colorado River— Supplies for Utah by that Route— Policy of the Mormons as to Agriculture and Mines— The Silver Mines in Utah— The Soldiers at Work on Them— Visit to Rush Valley and Stockton, 80 LETTER X. SALT LAKE CITY AND LIFE THERR-The Chief Comraer<!ial City of the Mountains, Knd the Watering-Place of the Continent— Its Hot Sulphur Springs, and its Salt Lake: their Characteristics and their Uses— The Present Status of the City— Profits of its Mer- chants—Prices of Goods there— Dinner Party at a Mormon Mer- chant's— Brigham Young's Theater— A Special Dramatic Pe.'forra- ance— Brigham Young on "a Good Thing," 88 LETTER XI. THE POLYGAMY QUESTION.— Our Opportunities for Studying the Mormons— Testimony ft-om all Interests ond Parties— Conclusions — Mormc oism not necessarily Polygamy— The Latter sure to fall Be- fore thi. Progress of Democracy— Present Duty of the Government towards he Question— Most of the Federal Officers In the Territory Polygamists— An Important Distinction— Conversation with Brig- ham Young on Polygamy— Poirits of the Discussion— Suggestion of a new Revelation against Polygamy — Views of Young as to Slavery and the Rebels— A Sardonic Face, lOS LETTER XII. THE MORMON WIVES : OUR LAST DAY IN SALT LAKE CITY.— The Mormon Women and Polygamy— How they Live Together— The Children and the Schools- The Soldiers Stealing the Surplus Wives — Neglect of their Poor by the Morrocis — Character of the Mormon Church Audiences — Services at the Tabernacle — Preaching by Brigham Young— Their Religion a Coarse Materialism— Mr. Col- fax's Eulogy on President Lincoln— Elections in Utah— Judge Kin- ney and Captain Hooper— Good-Bye to Salt Lake 114 LETTER XIII. SOCIAL LIFE AMONG THE MORMONS.— The Cross Relationships of Polygamy— Brigham Young's Wives— Going to Heaven by the Coat-'Tails of the Men— Wives the Reward of Merit— Polygamy "a good thing" for Poor Men — Brigham Young's Retinue— No Hand- some Women among the Mormons — Brigham Young's Children— The Soldiers and the Mormons— General Connor and Brigham Young— Porter Rockwell, the Avenger — The Movement towards the Sandwich Islands 123 XVI INDEX TO CONTENTS. LETTER XIV. PAGE. THE BIDK THROUGH THE SAGE BUU8H AND THE GREAT BA8IN.— The Great Desert Basin o:' Utah and Nevada, and its Char- Bcteristios— A Quick Stage Ride through if? Alkali Dost and over i'» Mountains— Tlie Ta'nt of the Alkali— £xporienc<:8 of the Ride— Greeley and Hank Monk— Problems as to tie Culfure of this Re- gion-Its Redeeming Heauties in Mountains, iu Atmosphere, and in Exhilarating Breeze, ^ 13; LETTER XV. • THE SILVER MINES OP NEVADA: AUSTIN AND VIRGINIA CITY.— Nevada the Child of California— Austin : its Location ; its Soaial and Material Development— Classics in a Cellar— The Silver Mines in and about Austin— Character of the Ore--Mille— Improve- ments and Expenses— New Mit.ing Discoveries— Virginia and its History -^nd Mines— The Famous Comstock Ledge— The Gould A Curry Mine, and its Statistics— Its Superintendent, Mr. Chailes L. Strong- The Ophir, Savage, Empire, Yellow .lacket, and other Mines— Cost and Profit of the Virginia Ores— Number of Quartz Mills on the Comatock Ledge— California's Acconnt with Nevada- Conclusions as to the Nevada Mines— Advice to Capitalists— A Rhode Island Example iq Colorado— DoubtfUl Thint,s Vtsry Uncertain— iYifinity Disooura^ed 141 LETTER XVI. THE COrriNENT ACROSS.— The Ride over the Sierras— The Great , Ride Finished— ttill the same Republic, the same Flag— Wonderful Homogeneity of the American People — The Civilisation of San Francisco and the Pacific Coast— The Mat«rial Prospects of City and Country— Th^ Last Day in Nevada— Valleys of the Truckee, V/ashoe, and Carson— Steamboat Springs — Reception at Carson City— The Sierra Nevadas and their Beauties— Lake Tahoe — The Stage Ride over the Mountains ft'om' Lake Tahoe to Placerville— Hard and Watered Roads and Fast Horses— First Views of California Life, . . ISS LETTER XVIL OVERLAND TO OREGON.— A Pleasant Revelation in Oregon— The Overland Ride f^om California— Up the Sacramento Valley— Chico— General Bidwell and hii) Farm— Red Blufi^ and the Family of John Brown— The Trinity, Klamath, Rogue, and Umpqua Rivers— Shasta andTreka— The Tower House and its Proprietor— Mount Shasta and its Snow Fields-Jacksonville and its Gold Diggings— Pilot Knob— The Forests— Pinep and Firs— Oak Groves— The Mistletoe and the Spanish Moss— Joe Lane and Jesse Applegate— Farming in the Ump- qua Valley— Entrance to the Willamette Valley— Its Agrioultural Wealth and its Rural Heauties— The Agriculture of Oregon— The Rains— The Summers and the Winters— The Townsand the People of the Willamette Volley— Portland : <U Location and its Importance, , 169 THE COLUl The Beac the Contii eral Grant Scenery o bia-A Bi pared wit Mount He of the Un Rise, Prot Route to t and Their THROUGH cello by £ ests— Fen and Rece Religious Capabiliti( PUGETS S( Market fa Victoria, 1 tnres— Fn of the Hi San Juan 1 Snows— Tl BAN FRANC PACIFIC oomparabl of the Stei —His Reci ican Ques Rictiardso THE YOSBK sions— Th( World-DI Valley— W trom—Via the Valley and the T Experieno Age: llieii i ENrs. [V. PAOP. I8H AND THE GREAT ind NeTsdn. and its Ohur- 1 Alkali Dast and over i's parienccs of the hide— tVe Culfure of this Ro- 18, !u Atmosphere, and in 1 131 J8TIN AND VIRGINIA lustin: its Loontion; its 28 in a Cellar— The Silver ;he Ore--Mille— Improve- Bveries— Virginia and its >ck Ledge— The Gould A ntendent, Mr. Charles L. silow <)acket, and other 3rcs— Number of Quartz I Aoconnt with Nevada— Be to Capitalists— A Rhode 'bin^s Very Uncertain — W n. r the Sierras— The Great le same Flag— Wonderful The Civilisation of San rial Prospects of City and ! of the Truckee, V/ashoe, on at Carson City— The Tahoe— The Stage Ride Placerville— Hard and evrs of California Life, . . let II. velalioo in Oregon— The iramento Valley— Chico— 1 and the Family of John ! Umpqua Rivers— Shasta rietor— Mount Shasta and Diftgings — Pilot Knob— —The Mistletoe and the te— Farming in the Ump- Valley— Its Agricultural culture of Oregon— The 3 Towns and the People of ion and its Importance, , 169 INDEX TO CONTENTS. xvu I LETTER XVIII. ,^^ THE COLUMBIA RIVER: ITS SOENEHY AND ITS COMMERCE.— The Reach ai'd Importance of the Columbia— Its Breach Through I the Continental Mountains— Fort Vancouver and its Uist'^ry— Gen- eral Grant as BoraBinborod Here— The Cascades— The Dalles— Hie | Scenery of Mountain and River— Steamboats on the Upper Colum- t bia— A Bit of Private Fun— The Scenery uf the Columbia as com- pared with the Hudson, the Rhine and the Upper Mississippi- Mount Hood— The Great Mountain of Oregon— The Highest Peaks of the United States— Tlie Oregon Steam Navigation Company— Its / Rise, Progressand Purposes— Oregon's Pacific Railroad Cut Ofl— New Route to the Carrlbou Country— Summing Up of Oregon— Its People and Their Promise • IM LETTER XIX. THROUGH WASHINGTON TERRITORY.-Frora PoHland to Monti- cello by Steamer— A Rough Road— A Hard Ride through the For- ests— Ferns, Blackberries and Snakes — Skookem Chuck — Olympia and Reception thero-^Pacino Tribute to the Stomach— Basis for a Religious Superstructure — Washington Territory— Its Namefand its Capabilities, 19S LETTER XX. PUGET8 SOUND AND VANCOUVER'S ISLAND.-Great Lumber Market for the Paciflc Coast— Saw-Mills ard Ships on the Sound- Victoria, and its English Features— British Taxes and Expendi- tures— Franer River Gold Diggings— Prosperity of Victoria— Depot of the Hudson Bay Company— Grand Dinner to Mr. Colfax— The San Juan Boundary Question— Summer Gardens under the Perpetual Snows— The Pacific Coast Climate venm that of New England, .... 204 LETTER XXI. BAN FRANCISCO: MR. COLFAX, AND HIS RECEPTION IN THE PACIFIC STATES.— Back to Frisco— Its Fascinations and its In- comparable Climate— The Town always "in the Draft"— The Loss of the Steamer Brother Jonathan— Speaker Colfax's Tour Complete —His Reception Describe^ and Analyzed— His Speeches— The Mex- ican Question— His Speech at Victoria— Governor Bross Mid Mr. Richardson „ Zts LETTER XXII. THE YOSEMITB VALLEY AND THE BIG TREES.— First Impres- sions— The Great Natural Wonders and Reautins of the Western World— Distingnishing Features of the Valley— The Verdure of the Valley— Where the Zebra and Dr. Bellows' Church were Borrowed from— Various Shapes of the Mountain Rooks— The Wator-fnlls of the Valley— Thi I Journey to the Yosemite— Cession of the Valley and the Big Trees to the State of California— Our Part.y and its Experiences- The Excursion to the Big Trees: their Siite; their Age: their Beauty: tlieir Migesly, 223 h mskm • •• XVIU INDEX TO CONTENTS. LETTER XXIII. ,^„^ THE CHINESE ON THE P;><J1F1C COAST: OUR GRAND DINNER WITH THEM.— Number of Chinese Emigriuats— What they Do- Raising Vegetables— Building the Paclfio Railway— 8ervant8 in Families and Gleaners in the Coal Fiulds— How the White Hen Treat them— Their Habits— Their Religion— Their Vices— How they are to be Reformed- Tho Chinese ver>u$ the Irish and the A'rican —Chinese Merchants— Their Intelligence and their Honesty— A Din- ner with them— Specimen of Chiaeso Pigeon-English-How the Dinner Began, and how It Went On — The Chopsticks, and the Food— The Writer Rescued by the Police, akd Taken Out to get "Something to Eat," 238 LETTER XXIV. THE GREAT THEME: T^IE PACIFIC RAILWAY.-How its Need ii Felt— Anxiety for its Construction— The Hunger for "Home"- The Condition and Prospects of the Enterprine— Where Timber and Fuel are to come from— Routes over the Rocky Mountains— From Salt Lake to the Sierra Nevadas— What the Government has Done— What I!i6 People are doing at each End— Lack oi Enterprise and Progress at the H^t— Superior Zeal and Progress at the West— Rival Routes over the Sierras- The Wagon Roads and their Business- Mr. T. D. Judah and his Route for the Railroad— Rapid Progress up the Mountains— Four Thousand Chinese Laborers at Work— Five Years Long Rnough to Complete the Whole Line— Appeal »•-. the Men of the East, -26" LETTER XXV. COUNTRY EXCURSIONS. THE GEYSERS, VINEYARDS AND AGRICUIjTURE.— Tho Valleys of the Coast Range— How California is Ctnstruotcd— Oakland— Fred Law Olmste-i and Miyor Ralph W. Kirkham— Tho San Jose Valley and its Be aotiee— Excursion to tho Geysers— Petaluma— Russian River Valley— Healdsburg— A Rare Whip and a Rare Drive— The Geysers Themselves— The Embodi- ment of Hell— The Country in the Neighborhood— Napa Valley— — Calistoga and Warm Springs— Sonoma Valley and its Vineyards- California vvic«8- -Champagne '.lie Mother"? Milk in California— Fa- cilities for Agriculture in California— Illustrative Crops, ...... 274 LETTER XXVI. OP SAN FRANCISCO : BUSINESS MATTERS.- How San Pra' Cisco is Located- Its Sand Hills and tho'r Fickleness— Lone Mr jntain Cemetery— The City Gardens— Contrasts in Business and Social Life- Character of the Business Men— The Bankers— The Bank of Cali- fornia—The Wells A Fargo Express and its Varioub Business— How it Rivals the Government in Carrying Letters— The Machine Shops and the Woolen Mnnufaclnrors— The Mission Woolen Mills and their Succos.s with Chinese liahor— Cotton Manufactory and Other Industrial Enterprises— The Commerce of San Francisco, 288 MINING II PR08PE( Processes Ddep Dig Latter— T Dam " am Valley— 1 in Marip< I'rospecti —Mining fornia— P Into the ( SOCIAL LI AND HI! T!io Sealt Society ii linism— 1 Feminini Rullgion- ers- Rev The Com ciflo Rail of Califoi CLIMATE RENCT mate foi Fruits ai East— Be Paoifio f House-] Question — The W THE MINI Word of in the F and Mr. i Geologic orado U Phaiie ol zona— Li Gold Fe Ciilifornl Growing 1 ENTS. ^**' PAO*. UUR GRAND DINNER granta— What they Do— Railway— 8ervaDta in In— How the White Hen —Their Vices— How they he Irish and the A'rican □ d their Honesty— A Din- igeon-English-How the 'he Chopstlclcs, and the e. ALd Taken Out to get 238 IV. LWAY.— How its Need is [unger for "Home"— The ino— Where Timber and Rocky Mountains— From I Government has Done— -Lack 01 Enterprise and ogress at the West— Rival ids and their Business— Iroad— Rapid Progress up Laborers at Work— Five hole Line — Appeal •■■. the .28u CV. RS, VINEYARDS AND it Range— How California ite-f and Miyor Ralph W. autiep— Excursion to the sy- Healdsbnrg— A Hare lemselves— The Embodi- iborhood— Napa Valley^ alley and its Vineyards— 'f Milk in California-Fa- itrative Crops, ...... 274 VI. R8.— How San Fra' .Cisco kleness— Lone Mr jntain Business and Social Life — ikers- The Bank of Cali- 4 Varioub Business— How ers — The Machine Shops ssion Woolen Mills and I Man n factory and Other ' Sau Francisco, S88 INDEX TO CONTENTS. xix LETTER XXVII. MINING IN CALIFORNIA: liB VARIETIES, RESULTS, AND PROSPECTS.- Present Yield of the Mines of the PaoiHo Stated- Processes and Progress of Gold Seeking— The Soil Washings, the Vaep Diggings, and Hydraulic Mining- Great. Enterprises of the Latter— The Large Results— The Waste of Nature by Mining—*' Yuba Dam" and its AueoUote— The Quarts Mining and its Status— Grass Valley- Lola Hontez,and the Horse Milkman— Condition of Mining in Mariposa County— rhf Fremont Estate Come to Grief— General Prospects and Condition of Mining in California— The Idaho Mines —Mining in the Various Sti '. i Compared— The Advantage for Cali- fornia—Personal Experiences in Visiting Mines— How We Went Into the Gould A Curry Mine, and Hew We Got Out, 303 LETTER XXVIII. SOCIAL LIFE IN SAN FRANCISCO: THE WOMEN: RELIGION AND MINISTERS.— Visit to the Cliff House-The Paoiflo Ocean— T!iu Seals and the Pelicans— A Ride along the Beach— The Chaos of Society in San Francisco— Domination of Materialism and Mascu- liniHm— The Women Savored ».ith it— How the Ladies Dress— A Feminine Lunch Party— Activity in Public Morals— Education and Religion— Churches and School-houses— Ambition for Smart Preaoh- era— Rev. Dr. Wadsworth, Rev. Dr. Scudder, Rev. Mr. Stebbins— The Country Parishes— Wide Field for Missionary Labor— The Pa- cific Railroad the Great Missionary of All— Rev. Mr. Stebbins' Views of California Life, LETTER XXIX. CLIMATE AND PRODUCTIONS: COST OF LIVING: THE CUR- RENCY QUESTION: THE MINT— Advantage of the Paclflo CH- mate for Invalids— Effects of the Climate upon the Race— The Fruits and Vegetables of Califoruia, Compared with those of the East— Beauty ot the California Spring— The Best Time to Visit the Paoiflo Statts— Comparative Prices of Living— The What Cheer House— Prices In the Ma. «.ets— Gold and Silver the only Currency- Question of Introducing Paper Money— The Mint at San Francisco —The World^) Settling House at San Francisco, 385 LETTER XXX. THE MINING QUESTIONS AGAIN : GENERAL REVIEW.— A New Word of Caution to Eastern Capitallsts-Bpeoulators and Swindlers in the Field— Other Authority for these Views; Professor Whitney and Mr. Ashbumer— Double Injury of Deception— Importance of the Geological Survey of California— The Superior Richness of the Col- orado Gold Mines— New Mining Discoveries in California— Latest Pha.^e of tlie Comstock Ledge— The Gold and Copper Mines in Ari- zona—Last News from Idaho— The Oil Fever of the East and the Gold Fever of the West— The Copper and Quicksilver Mines of Ciillfornin— The Petrolrnm Rpooulatlon in Cnlifornia— Vineyards <aCOWiog ou the BupjH>aed Oil Beds, 341 321 c. XX INDEX TO CONTENTS. LETTER XXXI. „g, THE PAUEWEUi PraTIVlTIES : POLITICS AND HOLlTlCIANfi.— Tha Tathoa of Partlug— Our Final Vlilt li San Fmnoiaco— A Orowdad Weok—MagnlHoenl Dinoor Party— Brilliant Kaiewell Ball and Danquot, with Urthodux Ballas and Hot Beel Tea— Politics of the Paciflo Stataa— Their Raacua ft'oin H«<ro«ilon' -Theii Affiliation with tha Union Party— GoTernora Blalsdull, Loweiuid Olliba— 8ena- tora Htewart and Vonneaa—T. Starr King's oppurtiinlty— UlsSacrud Fame on the PaolHo Coast— The California ConKressmen— Large Emigration of Kebaia from MlHsourl to Oregon— Aaeodota of Sena- tor Neoinith of Orngon— Paciflo Loyalty a Pasaion, and its Intoler- ance—The Indiana of the Paciflo Statea— The Indian Quoation Briefly Summed Up— The Slang Phrasea of the Coast- -A Parting Word for California and her Sister Slates, 8fi8 LETTER XXXII. THE VOTAOE HOME BY STEAMSHIP AND THE ISTHMUS.— An Unique SeaTrIp— Your Companions on the Voyage— The Acoom- * modationa and Food gn the Steamer— The Crowd— The Mixture— The BabieR— Down the Coast on Smooth Boas and In Sight of Land —Tropical Weather and its Effisota— Stopping at Acapiiloo— The Town and Its Mexican Inhabitants- The Evening on Shore— luterriow with Ooneral Alrarez- Poor Prospects for Mexican Independence — The Bartering for Frulta'and Shells— Down the Coast Again— Gua- temala and Its Volcanoes— San Salvador and Nicaragua— Arrival at Panama— Scenes in the Harbor— Burial of one of our Passengers- Day Upon the Isthmus — Panama and Its Idiosyncrasies— The Rail- road Across the Isthmus— The Ride and its Tropical Revelations- The Natives and their Nudity— Chagres River and the Isthmus Fever— Aspinwitll and its Barrenness- The Steamship Service on the Atlantic Side— A Fortunate Run to Now York— The Trip Summed Up— The Paciflo Mall Steamship Company and Its new Career- Prices or Passage— The Moral Unhealth of the Crowd on the Steam- ers— The Summer Journey Ended: Its Limits Reviewed: Its Trl- umpha Stated: its Results Measured. 870 FROA A WE railroad the Con Springfi cago, an through post of I a coach the proj< cerville. Cisco, an breadth reunited, under si how ma^ uprising ties and if the n ENTS. i ^^* fAOI. »AND K>LITlCIANfi.- It ii San Fmnoicco— A '— Brilliiint Ksiewell Hall lotBeel To»-eolilic«of i-pHiioD' -Theii Affiliation i, Lowe luid Oiliba— tlena- oppurtiiDity— Hii Sacrad nia GonKreasmen — Large eKon— Anecdote of Bena- I'afinion, and ita Intoler- I— The Indian Quottion of the Coait--A Parting SOS AND THE ISTHMUS.— the Voyage— The Aooom- > Crowd— The Mixture— ona and in Siglit of Land pping at Acapiiloo— The ining on Shore — luterriew ilexican Independence— n the Coaat Again — Oua- nd Nicaragua— AniTal at one of our Passengers — iiosyncrasieo— The Rail> A Troi)lcal Revelatiuna — River and the Isthmus e Steamship Service on York— The Trip Summed ly and ita new Career— the Crowd on the Steam- imita Reviewed: Its Trl- 870 .t w rn n ^-^-ft^ LETTER I. FROM MASSACHUSETTS TO THE MISSOURL Atchison, Kansas, May ai, 1865. A WEEK of leisure traveling ends the first or railroad stage of th"; great overland trip across the Continent. It is 1,425 miles by railroad from Springfield to Atchison, via Buflfalo, Cleveland, Chi- cago, and the Hannibal and St. Joseph Railroad through northern Missouri. Here, the outmost post of our eastern railway system, we commence a coach ride of two thousand miles before we mee the projecting arm of the California railways at Pla- cerville. Thence a day takes us down to San Fran- cisco, and the Continent is spanned, the national breadth is measured. How this Republic, saved, reunited, bound together as never before, expands under such personal passage and footstep tread ; ■ how magnificent its domain ; how far-reaching and uprising its material, moral and political possibili- ties and promises! There ''? no such knowledge 'if the nation as comes of ir;.veling it, of seeing ^m •«^(W ACROSS THE CONTINENT. M eye to eye its vast extent, its various and teeming wealth, and, above all, its purpose-full people — grow- ing only greater in personal power and activity as they grow fewer in numbers. We think our Yan- kee leaders have active brains and comprehensive hands ; but the pioneers in the commerce rfnd in the civilization of the West impress you as men of broader grasp and more intense vitality. The very breadth of their field expands them. It is five years since I was last in the West. Then I came to attend the Convention that nominated Mr. Lincoln for President. How long ago that seems ! How dim the almost tragic scenes and excitements and struggles of the Wigwam! Personal prefer- ences were lost and won there, life-long ambitions wrecked, new combinations created, and old ones shattered, whose significance was little understood then. What century of other history has held such revolutions, has wrought such influences on the present and the future of the world, as these five years ! What five years of all life, of ours or any- body's else, would you or I exchange for even our witness of these ? We had an afternoon and evening in Cleveland, and a day in Chicago. I gathered new impressions of the beauty of the former city. No other place, East or West, unites such a business street as Su- perior to such a residence avenue as Euclid. It is the gem of the western cities. Springfield has sim- ilar union of business convenience and breadth with beautiful rural homes; but the scale is smaller— -•ur Main street is narrower, our Maple and Chest- nut s palati; Chi( has im all the test, a I St. Lo strides There i ever ha noticed served 1 still nee theticall ner lots turns he philanth the Norl from Ne most ecl( cxecutiv< vain ovei from the luted Ital grand So which led the army, processioi war; and own nobil This bo Kansas ej ,us and tccminK 11 people— firow- r and activity as ; think our Yan- :l comprehensive ommercc itnd in ss you as men of itality. The very m. I the West. Then [lat nominated Mr. g ago that seems ! :s and excitements Personal prefcr- iifc-long ambitions ited, and old ones ts little understood story has held such influences on the rorld, as these five ife, of ours or any- lange for even our ;ning in Cleveland, ;d new impressions No other place, ,iness street as Su- le as Euclid. It is ipringfield has sim- :e and breadth with scale is smaller- Maple and Chest- CHICAGO AND ATCHISON. s nut shorter and less magnificently studded with palatial country residences. Chicago is still great — to all Chicagoians. She has indeed made herself the commercial center of all the North-west. Milwaukee gives up the con- test, and even her own State, to her old rival ; and St. Louis looks on with envy at the more rapid stride.s of the metropolis of the free North-west. There is less building in progress, however, than I ever have seen before, and fewer new structures are noticed on the business streets than are usually ob- served between visits ; though there be sjxjts enough still needing reconstruction. Chicago is getting es- thetically ambitious, however ; she talks less of cor- ner lots and corn and new blocks than of yore ; and turns her thoughts more to art, to literature and to philanthropy. Already with the great journal of the North-west, she is founding another, and draws from New York, in Mr. Dana, to lead it, one of the most eclectic of American s* holars, one of the most executive of American minds. Just now, too, she is vain over a new and beautiful opera-house — reared from the profits on alcohol — and a season of undi- luted Italian opera ; and earnest, moreover, with a grand Soldiers' Fair. Fitting it is that Chicago, which led in these monster fairs for the benefit of the army, should also close their glorious and holy procession. Their history is a proud chapter in our war; and in it the American women write their own nobility and patriotism. This border town of Atchison is memorable in Kansas experiences. It was first settled and pos- 4 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. sessed by border ruffians of the worst type. The fa- mous Buford Company of South Carolinians made it head-quarters. Stringfellow was its paterfamilias. But Mr. Pomeroy, the agent of the New England Emigrant Aid Company, finally got possession of it by strategy — he bought up its newspaper and threw a force of free state men into town during one night, and thenceforth defied the old settlers. Since then Pomeroy and Stringfellow have joined hands, bought up the town as a speculation, and are now growing rich together by its development and prosperity. Stringfellow lives here, and has become gentlemanly and loyal since the war broke out, and Pomeroy is. United States Senator fi"om Kansas, and also re- sides here when not in Washington. The town lies rather incoherently along some broken bluffs on the west bank of the Missouri River, five hundred , miles from St. Louis, about twenty above Leaven- worth, and the same distance below St. Joseph, the metropolis of northern Missouri. A railroad runs along the opposite bank of the river, and gives communication with St. Joseph and Leavenworth. Lawrence lies off to the south-west say fifty miles, Atchison being in fact in the north-eastern corner of the State. It is now the starting point of the overland mail for the mining regions and California, and the head-quarters of the stage company ; also one of the chief points on the border for the trans- shipment, from cars and steamboats to wagons, of goods of all sorts bound to the mines of Colorado, Idaho, Montana, &c., and the saints of Utah. Ne- braska City, Omaha. St. Joseph, Leavenworth and [NENT. worst type. The fa- Carolinians made it IS its paterfamilias. : the New England got possession of it ewspaper and threw vn during one night, lettlers. Since then ioined hands, bought nd are now growing lent and prosperity, become gentlemanly out, and Pomeroy is. ■Cansas, and also re- gton. The town lies le broken bluffs on River, five hundred , ^enty above Leaven- Delow St. Joseph, the iri. A railroad runs the river, and gives )h and Leavenworth, i-west say fifty miles, north-eastern corner starting point of the jgions and California, stage company ; also 1 border for the trans- mboats to wagons, of le mines of Colorado, saints of Utah. Ne- ph, Leavenworth and FREIGHTING OVERLAND. $ Lawrence are rivals in this great business of freight- ing to the far West — how great nobody can realize who iocs not look upon it directly at this the busy season of the year ; — but Atchison lies best as to the roads west, being both upon the river, and, through a great bend in its course, the most western of any town upon it, in the State or in Missouri, and per- haps does more of the outfitting and forwarding than any other one town. Most of the goods are only sent through the town, being bought by the shippers or territorial merchants in Philadelphia, New York, St. Louis and Chicago ; yet a single firm here, in a modest building, is selling one million dollars yearly to small traders, or to fill up forgotten places in large trains. Long trains of heavily loaded wagons, drawn by mules and oxen, are mov- ing out daily, now ; but immense warehouses and large yards are still stored full with massive ma- chinery for working the mines, and goods for feed- ing and clothing the miners, and agricultural imple- ments to cultivate the prairies, waiting for their turn. The mule trains have been in progress for a month, but the ox-teams have had to wait till now, so that the animals could be fed on the grass en route. The Indians made such havoc last year that food for man or beast has been very scarce on the road across the Plains all the winter and spring ; the Overland Stage and Mail Company has been very much crippled thereby; and the grain that it is now- feeding out to its horses on the road has cost it, in purchase and transportation, something like eight dollars a bushel, or eight and ten cents a pound ! I* '^IT'"'^ ACROSS THE CONTINENT. Speaker Colfax and his friends are gathered here for their long and inviting yet rather rough journey to the Pacific Coast. The party embraces the Speaker, Lieutenant-Governor Bross of Illinois, senior editor of the Chicago Tribun^, Mr. Albert D. Richardson of the New York Tribune, and my- self. Mr. George K. Otis of New York, special agent of the Overland Stage Line, accompanies us ; and we have laid in every possible mitigation of the fatigues and discomforts of the long ride. There are rifles and revolvers for Indians and game ; sar- dines for those who cannot digest bacon ; segars for the smoking Speaker ; black tea for the nervous newspaper men ; crackers for those fastidious stom- achs that reject saleratus biscuit ; and soap for those so aristocratic as to insist on washing themselves en route. Something of fillip is given to our ride by the overland stage from the West, due yesterday noon, coming in only this morning, and with the news that it had been attacked by the Indians about one hundred and forty miles back, or some half way to Fort Kearney. It is the first raid of the red-skins this season ; and so thorough precautions had been made by General Connor, who has charge of the troops along the route, that it was believed there would be no trouble ; the stages had assumed their old certainty and regularity, came in here every day 'within half an hour of the schedule time, and left precisely at eight every morning, and timed their arrivals at the stations along the route so certainly that the keepers had the meals all cooked and warm rENT. are gathered here ;her rough journey Tty embraces the Bross of Illinois, ribun^, Mr. Albert : Tribune, and my- slew York, special e, accompanies us ; le mitigation of the long ride. There ,ns and game ; sar- t bacon ; segars for ea for the nervous ose fastidious stom- ; and soap for those ihing themselves en to our ride by the iue yesterday noon, and with the news ; Indians about one jr some half way to aid of the red-skins recautions had been ( has charge of the was believed there s had assumed their ne in here every day edule time, and left ng, and timed their le route so certainly all cooked and warm INDIANS ON OUR TRACK. 7 as the stages drove up, all the way from here to Salt Lake City. But to-day's news shows that some of the Tndians had broken through oi; run around the military lines. They commenced by ambushing a party of some twelve to twenty soldiers, mostly con- verted rebels, on their way up from Leavenworth to Fort Kearney, but without arms. Two of these they killed outright, and most of the rest they wounded so savagely that they will probably die. The next day they assaulted the incoming stage, which had some six or eight passengers, men, wo- men and children, circling around and around the vehicle on well-mounted horses, and shooting their arrows fast and sharp— only one had a musket, and another a pistol — at horses and passengers. The horses were whipped up. the men on the coach had two rifles and kept them in play, and thus the In- dians were held at bay until the protection of a sta- tion and a train was secured, when the attacking party, finding themselves baffled, retired. They numbered about twenty-five in all, and their appear- ance on what was supposed to be the safest part of the route, and the one least protected by soldiers, has made some excitement. Senator Foster of Connecticut, (Vice-president, ex-officio) and Senator Doolittle of Wisconsin, have just started south-west on an expedition to Santa Fe in New Mexico. They take a body guard of over one hundred cavalrymen, and will sweep around, through Colorado, across the Overland Route to the upper Missouri, and come down through Nebraska. The two Senators are a part of a joint committee 8 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. of Congress to visit all our Indian territories, ex' amine into the condition of the Indians and their relations to the whites, and report facts and sug- gestions, with a view to a more intelligent and ef- fective Indian policy. This is the occasion of their journey, the section they are visiting being their allotted space of the committee's work. It is an important, and, it is to be hoped, will prove a be- neficent mission, that is thus undertaken. Who- ever shall discover and cause to be put in practice a policy towards our Indian tribes, that shall secure protection alike to them and the whites, and stop indiscriminate massacre on both sides, will prove the greatest of national benefactors. But the al- most universal testimony of the border men is that there can be no terms made with the Indians — the only wise policy, they aver, is extermination. This is dreadful if true ; and I cannot believe it. The Indians have great provocation for their bad faith and their massacres in our own bad faith to them, in the systematic manner they have been plundered and cheated and every way abused by officers of the government, and the coarsest of the border men. But if the policy of extermination is the only possible one, the sooner it is adopted, and car- ried out, the better. It is cruelty to all parties, it is loss to people and nation, to let affairs drift along in the present way, exposing settlers and travelers to unexpected assaults and robbery, and interrupt- ing the course of the subjugation and civilization of the continent. The season lags, and plowing and planting are NENT. Jian territories, ex' Indians and their )ort facts and sug- intelligent and ef- he occasion of their visiting being their e's work. It is an ;d, will prove a be- undertaken. Who- be put in practice es, that shall secure he whites, and stop th sides, will prove Lctors. But the al- ; border men is that th the Indians — the {termination. This lot believe it. The 1 for their bad faith 1 bad faith to them, lave been plundered Dused by officers of rsest of the border xtermination is the is adopted, and car- elty to all parties, it [et affairs drift along ettlers and travelers bery, and interrupt- tion and civilization ng and planting are 1 THE STAGE STARTS : GOOD-BYE. great^ belated in the West. There is evident lack of labor and nature kindly prolongs the spring- time. A few fields of com are up ; but more stm are yet bemg plowed. A steam plow, cheap, simple, but effective. ,s still the great need of our western agriculture, for plowing is its greatest, most wear- ing, most delaying burden. The other labor-saving machines are in use to an extent that would amaze New England farmers -planters, mowers, reap- ers ;_you see them by the dozens in every little village, and they are the prominent feature of freight at the depots all along the railroads. The " Buck- eye " is the favorite mower and reaper out here The caterpillars are ruining the orchards along our route through Illinois and Missouri as painfully as at the East, and the farmers seem as indifferent to their ravages. It is a sad sight-a thrifty young orchard of apples, otherwise, with half its trees stripped of all life by these pests, and the rest going in the same direction. But the overiand coach waits; General Connor has taken command of our party; and so, dear friends all, we sail out into this vast ocean of land. -Z 1^?,°^ ^°" "^'^^ ^""^^y J°y' ^"d, possibly with selfish longing, with every pain. Do you think of me when the June roses open, with the dew of July mornings, with the fragrant cool of an August evening shower, when the katy-dids sing in September; and. God willing, I shall be with you again ere the maples redden in October. .«■*" r-^Ji, ^^-- LETTER II. FROM THE MISSOURI TO THE PLATTE. Fort Kearney, Neb. »ska. May 24. A TRIFLE short of two days has borne us two hundred and fifty miles, riding night and day, to this point, which is the junction of the Omaha. Nebraska City and Atchison roads for the grand central Over- land Route to Colorado and Utah and the Pacific Ter- ritories. Our road lay through the northern counties of Kansas and the southern of Nebraska; across the valleys of the Big and Little Sandy and the Big and Little Blue rivers ; and here we strike the Platte River, up which and its southern branch we continue till we reach Denver. We came through the region of the Indian surprises and attacks of last week, but met no hostile red-skin. We found abundant evidences, however, of their last year's swoop through the line, in ruins of houses and barns which they then burned, and stories of their terrible massacres. General Connor and his aid, Captain Jewett, are riding out with us on their way to Julesburg, the General's head-quarters, two hund- red miles farther west; and through the exposed parts of the line we had, as all the stages now have. W j»- 1 [I. THE PLATTE. !IEY, Neb. «ska. May 24. 3 has borne us two light and day, to this le Omaha. Nebraska grand central Over- 1 and the Pacific Ter- he northern counties )f Nebraska; across ,ittle Sandy and the d here we strike the southern branch we We came through irises and attacks of red-skin. We found , of their last year's ruins of houses and , and stories of their Connor and his aid, with us on their way ,d-quarters, two hund- through the exposed i the stages now have. I "GALVANIZED YANKEES." i| a guard of two to four cavalrymen. A few soldiers, with a half-dozen cool and well-armed passengers,' are always enough to frighten off or drive away any number of I^idians less than a hundred. The red-skin fights shy, and only attacks where he i.s sure of little or no resistance; and he is despised, as a foe, by all the military men and old stagers along the Plains. But the necessity of keeping up steady mail and travel communication through this region, and of protecting the immense traffic in provisions, goods and machinery now in progress between the East and far West, enforces upon the government the duty of placing a strong military force all along the various leading roads, and then of sending out troops enough to drive the Indians to the far North and South, and keeping them there, or else of wholly exterminating them. Among the present limited number of troops on the Plain are two regiments of infantry, all from the rebel army. They have cheerfully re-enlisted into the federal service, We passed one of these regi- ments on the road yesterday, it having just come upon the line. They were all young but hardy lookmg men ; and the Colonel, who is of course irom the old federal army, testified heartily to their subordination and sympathy with their new service. They are known in the army as "whitewashed rebs," or as they call themselves, "galvanized Yan- kees." Aside from the Indian question—which, indeed, gave only a pleasant zest to our progress, and taught us novices at which end to hold our pistols and ^f 12 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. iL. rifles,— we have had a most delightful ride so far. The weather has been clear and warm ; the com- pany intelligent and good natured; the food at the meal stations more excellent than that of the hotels and restaurants on the railroads west of Chi- cago : the country and its scenes most novel and inspiring. We d'-ove at an average of six miles an hour, including all stops, sometimes making full ten miles an hour on the road, in an easy and com- modious new Cdhcord stage, such as are in use all through this route, and with horses as sprightly and in as good condition as you ever rode after in the good old days of staging in the Connecticut River valley. Every ten or twelve miles we come to a sta- tion, sometimes in a village of log and turf cabins, but oftener solitary and alone, where we change horses ; and every two or three stations, we change drivers; but except for meals, for which half an hour is allowed, our stops do not exceed five min- utes each. The country up to fifty miles of this point, presents the characteristics of the finest prairie scener}' of the West — illimitable stretches of ex- quisite green surface, rolling like long waves of the sea, and broken at distances of miles by an inter- vale with a small stream, along whose banks are scattered trees of elm and cotton-wood. Here and there is a "ranch" or farm with cultivated land, but these grow rarer and rarer— the uniform view is one wide rolling prairie, freshly green, spreading out as far as the eye can reach, with the distant fringe of thin forest by the water-course, and sending forth W" an th( we de( oui the da' thi V\i Pr: str bul roi de( for gre thr rie ver the in '. em bol wic ace loo eye or pas mo lop "'^T^' NENT. LIFE ON THE PLAINS. 13 ightful ride so far. id warm ; the com- ured; the food at nt than that of the ilroads west of Chi- cs most novel and •age of six miles an etimes making full n an easy and com- ich as are in use all ses as sprightly and er rode after in the ; Connecticut River es we come to a sta- log and turf cabins, , where we change stations, we change , for which half an ot exceed five min- liles of this point, >f the finest prairie ble stretches of ex- Ice long waves of the f miles by an inter- ig whose banks are on-wood. Here and I cultivated land, but e uniform view is one ;en, spreading out as the distant fringe of e, and sending forth and receiving the sun at morning and evening, as tiie ocean seems to discharge and accept it when we travel its trackless space. No land could be richer; no sight could more deeply impress you with the measureless extent of our country, and its unimproved capacities, than that which has been steadily before us for these two days. Within the last fifty miles, the soil grows thinner, the grass less rich, the sand hills of the Platte rise before the eye, and Plain, rather than Prairie, becomes the true descriptive name. The streams are few and scant, and the water muddy; but wells give good drinking water all along the route, though oftentimes they have to be sunk as deep as fifty or seventy-five feet. It is too early yet for many of the prairie flowers ; but the rich, fresh green of the grass satisfies the eye. Scattered through it we catch frequent glimpses of the prai- rie hen, multiplying for the hunter's harvest in No- vember ; from its bare, last year's stalks floats out the liquid music of the larks ; the plover, paired as in Paradise, and never divorced even in this west- ern country of easy virtue and cheap legislation, bob up and down their long necks, or flutter their wide wings in flight at every rod ; little blackbirds accompany you in great shoals ; a lean, hungry- looking wolf steals along at a distance with one eye on you, and the other on the carcass of a horse or px, dropped in sickness or fatigue from some passing train ; away off near the horizon scamper most daintily and provokingly a half-dozen ante- lopes — too near for restful palates, too far for wait- m jp 14 ACROSS THE CONTINENT, ing rifles ; and over all and illuminatinjif all floats an atmosphere so pure, so rare, so ethereal, as pic- tures every object with a pre-Raphaclite distinct- ness, makes distant things appear near, and sends the horizon far away in an unbounded stretch of slightly rounding green earth. Add to these a con- stant breeze, tempering the sun to a most grateful softness, and bearing an inspiring tonic to lungs and heart ; sunsets and sunrises that rival Italy or the Connecticut valley; a twilight prolonged as in England ; and a dryness arid purity to the atmos- phere, that you certainly know not in New England, and guards the most exposed against colds, — and you may form some idea of the life of our senses and sensibilities so far on this excursion. But I omit one great feature in the constant land- scape — the long trains of wagons and carts, with their teams of mules and oxen, passing to and fro on the road, going in empty, coming out laden with com for man and beast, with machinery for the mining regions, with clothing, food and luxuries for the accumulating populations of Colorado, Utah and Montana, — for all these territories and the in- termediate populations draw their supplies from this quarter, and not from the California shore. The wagons are covered with white cloth ; each is drawn by four to six pairs of mules or oxen ; and the trains of them stretch frequently from one-quarter to one- third of a mile each. As they move along in the distance, they remind one of the caravans described in the Bible and other Eastern books. Turned out of the road on the green prairie, for afternoon rest or cir tec to for the am im] fon ent mo Inc of; ma the spc fift« twc pra ani: in t the int( 1 so ; and oral veri It i and Fin int >IENT. minatin;^ all floats so ethereal, as pic- aphaelite distinct- ar near, and sends ounded stretch of \dd to these a con- to a most grateful ng tonic to lungs that rival Italy or it prolonged as in irity to the atmos- it in New England, gainst colds, — and life of our senses ccursion. the constant land- ns and carts, with passing to and fro ling out laden with machinery for the od and luxuries for if Colorado, Utah 'itories and the in- r supplies from this fornia shore. The oth ; each is drawn ten ; and the trains one-quarter to one- move along in the caravans described looks. Turned out , for afternoon rest A STORM ON THE PLAINS. 15 or a night's repose, the wagons drawn around in a circle, as a sort of barricade against Indians or pro- tection against storm, and the animals turned loose to feed, and wandering over the rounding prairie for a mile— "cattle upon a thousand hills ;" at night their camp fires burning ; — in any position, or under any aspect, they present a picture most unique and impressive, indeed. I have seen nothing like it be- fore ; and it summons up many a memory of ori- ental reading. Just now, these trains are moving more compactly than usual, for protection agrniist Indian attacks; but their numbers and the am( imt of goods they are hauling, give you an idea of the magnitude and importance of the commerce across these Plains, that neither bare figures, nor parts of speech can impart. The mule trains make from fifteen to twenty miles a day ; and. the oxen about twelve to fifteen. They depend entirely upon the prairies for food as they go along ; and indeed the animals grow stronger and fatter as they move on in their summer campaign of work, coming out of their winter rest poor and scrawny, and going back into it in the fall, fat and hearty. The chief sensation and experience of our ride so far was a storm of thunder and lightning, hail and rain, upon the Plains. Such storms are mem- orable in all travel or life in this country for se- verity ; and we had one of the very best of them. It struck us this morning, about six n.iles back, and just as we had come to the banks of the Platte. First came huge, rolling, ponderous masses of cloud in the west, massing up and separating into sections i6 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. in a more majestic and threatening style than our party ha'l ever before seen in the heavens. Then followed a tornado of wind. Horses, coach and es- cort turned their backs to the breeze, and bendinjj, awaited its passing. It stripped us of every loose bit of baggage ; and we sent out scouts for their recovery. Next fell the hail, pouring as swift rain, and as large and heavy as bullets. The horses quailed before its terrible pain. Our splendid quar- tette of blacks careered and started over the prai- rie ; we tumbled out of the coach to save ourselves one peril, and so met the other — the fire of the heavenly hail; it bit like wasps, it stunned like blows. But horses and coach were to be saved; and after a long struggle, in which the coach came near overturning, and the horses to running away, in dismay and fright, and our driver and military friends proved themselves real heroes, and every- body got wet, the hail subsided into a pouring rain, the horses were quieted and restored to their places, and we got into a drowned coach, ourselves like drowned rats, and hastened to refuge, over a prairie flooded with water, in this hospitable station. We are remaining here a few hours to dry our clothes and baggage, receive and send dispatches, see the quarters of the military establishment, over which Colonel Livingston presides, and put ourselves in order for another two days' ride to Julesburg, half way to our first grand destination at Denver. Speaker Colfax is receiving every attention pos- sible from such people as there are along this line ; everybody seems to kpow him — many to be his old per anc eve cial ing goo enj( but be I nig] 'itl'S' " NENT. linfj style than our ic heavens. Then jrses, coach and es- reezc, and bendinjj, d us of every loose ut scouts for their airing as swift rain, llcts. The horses Our splendid quar- irted over the prai- h to save ourselves :r — the fire of the ps, it stunned like were to be saved ; ich the coach came :s to running away, Iriver and military heroes, and every- into a pouring ruin, ored to their places, ach, ourselves like ;fuge, over a prairie table station. We to dry our clothes dispatches, see the ihment, over which id put ourselves in to Julesburg, half »n at Denver, very attention pos- are along this line ; -many to be his old THE GRAND RIDE A TRIUMPH. «7 personal friends in Indiana; the stage proprietors and their agents are extending to him and his party every hospitality and courtesy ; and the military offi- cials only such protection as they are now accord- ing to all passengers, and such politeness as their good breeding is sure to suggest. For myself, I enjoy the grand ride much better than I expected ; but foi* the remaining twinges of sciatica, it would be unalloyed pleasure ; and the anticipated sleepless night rides prove but small inconvenience. LETTER in. THROUGH THE PLAINS TO THE MOUNTAINS. Denver, Colorado, May 29. Our coach rolled into this town, t> j leading one of Colorado Territory, and lying under the very shadow of the Rocky Mountains, on Saturday noon, exactly "on time," and in less than five days from the Missouri River. It was a magnificent, uninter- rupted stage ride of six hundred and fifty miles, much more endurable in its discomforts, much more exhilarating in its novelties, than I had anticipated. From Fort Kearney, where we struck the Platte River, and finished the first third of the diitance, we found the soil growing thinner and thinner ; the sand hills rose and rolled away in regular serial form, north and south ; and we passed on to and through the great Central Desert of the Continent, stretching from the far distant north to the Gulf of Mexico, and separating by four hundred miles of almost uninhabitable space the agriculturally rich prairies of the Mississippi valley,.from the min- erally rich slopes and valleys of the Rocky Moun- tains. Yet not a desert, as such is commonly in- terpreted — not worthless, by any means. The soil i THE SOIL OF THE PLAINS. 19 III. THE MOUNTAINS. ^YER, Colorado, May 29. own, V- J leading one ying under the very IS, on Saturday noon, , than five days from magnificent, uninter- dred and fifty miles, (comforts, much more lan I had anticipated, ve struck the Platte ;hird of the distance, iner and thinner ; the ivay in regular serial ive passed on to and sert of the Continent, nt north to the Gulf r four hundred miles ce the agriculturally i valley,. from the min- of the Rocky Moun- juch is commonly in- any means. The soil is fa*, indeed, compared with your New England pine plains. It yields a coarse and thin grass that, green or dry, makes the best food for cattle that the Continent offers. It is, indeed, the great Pasture of the nation. This is its present use and its future profit. Now it supports the machinery of the com- merce of the two great wings of the nation, that it both separates and connects. Then — when rail- road shall supersede cattle and mules — it will feed us with beef and mutton, and give wool and leather immeasurable. Let us, then, not despise the Plains ; but turn their capacities to best account. The Platte is a broad, shallow but swift river, fur- nishing abundant good water for drinking and for limited irrigation, but offering no possibilities of navigation — not even for ferriage. When it is too swift and strong for fording, if must be let alone, and a route on either shore kept, or the falling wa- ters waited for. The soil of the valley and of the Plains, which it crosses, is not by any means mere sand, but rather a tough, cold, sandy loam, with an admixture of clay. It is too cold and dry for corn and vegetables. Wheat and barley may be raised on its best acres, with the help sometimes of a sim- ple irrigation ; but the pasture is its manifest des- tiny and use. There is a steady, imperceptible rise from the Missouri to the Rocky Mountains ; half way, we get above the dew-falling point ; and here at Denver, at the base of the mountains, we are five thousand feet above the level of the sea. The days are warm, however; the sun pours down over its shadeless level with a hot, br.rning power; but a 20 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. cool wind tempers its bitterness, and at night the air is absolutely cold This is the universal rule of ail our western countiy, beyond the Mississippi val- ley, and distinguishes the summers of its whole ex- tent from those of the East. This valley of the Platte, through these Plains, is the natural highway across the Continent. Other valleys and routes have similar advantages, but in minor degree : this unites the most ; for it is cen- tral — it is on the line of our great cities and our great industries. East and West, and it is the long- est, most continuous. A smooth, hard stage road is made by simply driving over it ; a railroad awaits only sleepers and rails. Here and there, at rare in- tervals, is a gully or dry creek or petty stream to cross ; but this, the longest and best stage road in the world, has not to-day a quarter of a mile of simplest bridging; and a railroad of six hundred and fifty miles would not need a mile. There is an occasional stretch of heavy sand ; aft ;r a rain also of temporary mud ; but at this season of the year a speed of ten miles an hour could easily be attained by horses, with proper relays and a light load, throughout the whole distance. This would redi'.ce the transit to three days ; but with ponderous mails, a Hfeavy coach, and six to fourteen passengers, the five days occupied in the journey constitutes a great triumph of stage management and horse-flesh ca- pacity. The region is substantially uninhabitable ; every ten or fifteen miles is a stable of the stage proprie- tor, and every other ten or fifteen miles an eating- hou! hou! trail one and milii Stat Thi} The pilec with best itar) hors thicl with clotl only spoc ican a"c and O gooc eggs and casii nish sam( guis dolh tioni tTINENT. ess, and at night the > the universal rule of id the Mississippi val- imers of its whole ex- through these Plains, :he Continent. Other ar advantages, but in e most ; for it is cen- great cities and our :st, and it is the long- ooth, hard stage road T it ; a railroad awaits ; and there, at rare in- ;k or petty stream to nd best stage road in quarter of a mile of Iroad of six hundred i a mile. There is an a,nd ; aft )r a rain also s season of the year a >uld easily be attained ys and a light load, 2. This would redi'.ce with ponderous mails, irteen passengers, the ley constitutes a great It and horse-flesh ca- uninhabitable ; every : of the stage proprie- fteen miles an eating- I WHAT WE HAD TO EAT. 21 house; perhaps as often a petty ranch or farm- house, whose owner lives by selling hay to the trains of emigrants or freighters; every fifty or one hundred miles you will find a small grocery and blacksmith shop; and about as frequently is a military station with a company or two of United States troops for protection against the Indians. This makes up all the civilization of the Plains. The barns and houses are of logs or prairie turf, piled up layer on layer, and smeared over or between with a clayey mud. The turf and mud make the best houses, and the same material is used for mil- itary forts and for fences around the cattle and horse yards. Their roofs, where covered, are a foot thickness of turfs, sand, clay, and logs or twigs, with an occasional inside lining of skins or thick cloth. Floors are oftenest such as nature offers only ; and, as at some of the Washington hotels, the spoons at the table do not always go around. Mex- ican terms prevail : an inclosure for animals is called a "corral ;" a house of turf and mud is of "adobe;" and a farm-house or farm a " ranch." Our meals at the stage stations continued very good throughout the ride ; the staples were bacon, eggs, hot biscuit, green tea and coffee ; dried peaches and apples, and pies were as uniform ; beef was oc- casional, and canned fruits and vegetables were fur- nished at least half of the time. Each meal was the same ; breakfast, dinner and supper were undistin- guishable save by the hour ; and the price was one dollar or one dollar and a half each. The devasta- tions of the Indians last summer and fall, and the 22 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. mi ili fear of their repetition, form the occasion and excuse for enormous prices for everything now upon the Plains and in the Territories on this side the moun- tains. Twenty-five cents a pound has been charged the past year for transporting any sort of goods. The government and the stage company have paid ten and twelve dollars a bushel for corn, all of which has to be brought up from the Missouri and Missis- sippi valleys, and from seventy-five to one hund- red dollars a ton for hay. But General Connor means to emancipate himself from the hay specu- lators hereafter ; he has bought twenty-five mowing machines, which are to be distributed among the military stations, and used by the soldiers upon the generous common grass of the river bottoms for gathering a winter supply of hay. The stage com- pany is also pursuing the same policy. Wood costs on the Plains seventy-five dollars a cord, so distant are the thin forests that furnish it ; lumber, when it is used at all, which is rarely, for it must be freighted from one end or the other of the route, one hundred and fifty to two hundred dollars a thousand; a wagon and team of oxen (five pairs) twenty to twenty-five dollars a day ; common labor two and three dollars a day and board. And at Denver, the end of the route, here is a specimen of the prices to-day : potatoes twenty-five cents a pound or fifteen dollars a bushel ; flour fifteen and twenty cents a pound ; corn eighteen cents a pound or ten dollars a bushel; mechanics and laborers eight and ten dollars a day ; beef forty cents a pound, and hams forty-five to fifty cents ; girls as house servants ten doll doM son trar freij infli 1 exp botl perl hea soni sho of \ like gall pist for fens way bre< easi of c vale A ante broi and mor bee: roac of c TINENT. SCENES BY THE KOAOSIDE. ; occasion and excuse thing now upon the 1 this side the moun- ind has been charged ; any sort of goods. i company have paid for corn, all of which Missouri and Missis- ty-five to one hund- 3ut General Connor from the hay specu- t twenty-five mowing stributed among the the soldiers upon the he river bottoms for lay. The stage corn- policy. Wood costs ars a cord, so distant li it ; lumber, when it ir it must be freighted le route, one hundred liars a thousand; a ve pairs) twenty to nmon labor two and i. And at Denver, pecimen of the prices nts a pound or fifteen I and twenty cents a pound or ten dollars lorers eight and ten i a pound, and hams is house servants ten dollars a week. These rates are likely to be cut down one third or one half during the present sea- son, however, as General Connor gives security to transportation across the Plains, and competition in freighting and merchandising works its legitimate influences. The ride from Fort Kearney gave us but few new experiences. The "noble red man" disappointed both fear and hope. He gave us a wide berth; perhaps he had intuitive knowledge of our • "ave hearts and our innumerable Colts', Smith & Wes- sons', Remingtons', Ballards', and double-barreled shot-guns — certainly we bristled with the munitions of war like a fortification prepared for assault ; more likely he saw the four cavalrymen that constantly galloped by our side from station to station, with pistols at holsters and rifles slung in the saddles, — for bloodthirsty as our red brethren are, when de- fenseless men or women or children come in their way, they have a holy hoVror of well-armed soldiers, breech-loading rifles, and magazine pistols. They easily learn and most faithfully practise the maxim of civilization, that discretion is the better part of valor. Animal and vegetable life, too, grew scantier ; the antelope eluded all rifle shot ; only a prairie hen was brought down; we were too early for the buffalo, and not one crossed our path : as the Plains grew more barren, the prickly pear and the sage bush became plenty in their tough unfruitfulness ; the road was marked more frequently with the carcasses of oxen and horses — scarcely ever were we out of H |l» »"ti» » n 24 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. t . it: 4i sight of their bleaching bones ; occasionally the pa- thos of a human grave gave a deeper touch to our thoughts of death upon the Plains, deepened, toe, by the knowledge that the wolf would soon violate its sanctity, and scatter the sacred bones of father, mother or child over the waste prairie ; — the wiser instinct of the Indian showed itself, once in a while, in the sepulture of their kindred above ground — for, rolling his dead in a blanket, he places the body in mid-air between two forked poles, six or eight feet high, and so, if not poised for an upward flight, at least safe from vulture profanation ; — and anon we grew gay over the lively little prairie dogs, looking half rat and half squirrel, as they scampered through the grass or dove, with a low, chirruping bark, back into their holes. These animals are smaller and more contemptible than I had expected ; their holes, marked by a hillock of sand, are congregated in vill; 'es, sometimes extending a quarter or half a mile «.iong the roadside. Only a pair occupy each hole, but we h^ar the same story, that earlier trav- elers record for us, that a snake and an owl share their homes with them. The snakes wo did not see ; but the owl, a species no larger than a robin, solemn, stiff and straight, stood guard at many of the holes. We passed through an alkali region, where the soil for two or three feet seemed saturated with soda, and so poisons the fallen water that, if drank by man or beast after a shower, it is sure to be fatal. All the water of this region and the Plains has a savor of alkali or sulphur in it, but not to an un- hea nan ploi foui sul[ we Cali new gem grai der- the with of n so w it in W felloe ing, i the s brani Sout mark is on aflforc but i1 prote dians and I partir eating and d -■sgt.^'!;^ TINENT. ; occasionally the pa- L deeper touch to our *lains, deepened, toe, If would soon violate cred bones of father, 2 prairie ; — the wiser itself, once in a while, Ired above ground — :t, he places the body d poles, six or eight for an upward flight, lation ; — and anon we prairie dogs, looking iy scampered through ;hirruping bark, back tials are smaller and ;xpected; their holes, are congregated in a quarter or half a y a pair occupy each )ry, that earlier trav- ce and an owl share : snakes we did not larger than a robin, >d guard at many of di region, where the i saturated with soda, :er that, if drank by it is sure to be fatal, ind the Plains has a t, but not to an un- A soluieh's breakkast. 25 healthy degree. We stopped at Fremont Spring, named for its discovery and use by the great ex- plorer, on his original trip through this region, and found it pure, sweet water, slightly marked with sulphur. Wc were not without our daily paper ; for we stopped the incoming stage and had the latest California journals, but, though they gave us fresh news from the Pacific shore, their eastern intelli- gence was indeed a twice-told tale. At the tele- graph stations, however,— for those bare but won- der-working poles and wires ran in sight all along the road, and kept us in their mysterious sympathy with friends and home,— wc had a special privilege of reading the news as it ran East and West, and so we were up with the world, though so far out of It in all material circumstance. We dropped General Connor, who had been our fellow passenger from Atchison, early Friday morn- "ig, at Julesburg, where he has his head-quarters for the summer, and where the Platte River forks, one branch extending north to Fort Laramie and the bouth Pass through the mountains, and the other marking our southerly line to Denver. Julesburg IS only a village of tents and turf forts and barns, affordmg no facilities for a luxurious military life- but It 13 well located for General Connor's plans for protecting the commerce of the Plains from the In- dians, and for punishing them for their past offenses and present threatenings against it. We took a parting breakfast with him in camp, just at sunrise eatmg canned chicken and oysters ofT tin plates and drinkir^ our coffee with the brownest of sugar m "h •mm 26 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. a d the most concentrated of milk, all in the sim- plest and most barren of border life. But we parted from him with real regret and a large respect. He had shown himself to us both a genuine gentleman and a valuable commandant ; and we found reason in our personal acquaintance to confirm the judg- ment of the people of all this region, that he is of all men, whom the government has assigned to the duty, the most fit and efficient for restraining the Indians, for protecting and developing the interests of government and people, for settling the Mormon problem, for giving order and unity to the incoher- ent and chaotic social and material life of all this vast region. General Connor has been for two years m com- mand at Utah, and of his administration there and his views of the Mormons, I shall have occasion to speak when I am on the spot It is only two months since he had assigned to him, also, the pro- tection of the Overland Routes across the Plams ; but everybody hereabouts notes with pride and con- fidence the change already introduced. The sol- diers have ceased to be thieves and bullies; a new and better social tone is visible in all the mining re- gion; the laws are better respected; soldiers guard the whole central line of travel, and cavalrymen escort every stage— theYe is no longer any leal dan- ger, or will not be, so soon as a few more troops can be put in their places, in traveling or freightmg over the main road from the river to the mountams ; the Indians will speedily be driven back to their res- ervations, and forced to submit to whatever terms the PI of an sa: ne di£ sul rie set noi ch( Bu fro: He the nisi aln nov fror for G ist!( earl Uni vice tern Mej Cali othe thei of a NENT. lilk, all in the sira- ife. But we parted large respect. He genuine gentleman id we found reason I confirm the judg- egion, that he is of has assigned to the ; for restraining the sloping the interests lettling the Mormon mity to the incoher- :erial life of all this r two years in com- nistration there and lall have occasion to jt. It is only two to him, also, the pro- is across the Plains ; s with pride and con- itroduced. The sol- 5 and bullies ; a new ; in all the mining re- acted; soldiers guard ivel, and cavalrymen ) longer any leal dan- L few more troops can iveling or freighting ver to the mountains ; iven back to their res- to whatever terms the GENERAL CONNOR's PERSONAL HISTOKV. 27 government may dictate; prices will fall along the Plains and in the Territories on the eastern slopes of the mountains; and all the business of this vast and nch region will receive, under certainty and safety, an impetus, and gain an uniformity, that have never before marked their history. Whether the In- dians shall be wholly exterminated; or forced into submission and half civilization in limited territo- ries, undisputed for the present by the white; or set to work upon the Pacific Railroad— thest are not points for General Connor to decide. The choice belongs to the government at Washington. But General Connor will certainly restrain them Irom violence, and punish them for their barbarities He believes they may be made useful in building the Pacific Railroad; and he has proposed to fur- nish two thousand of one or two tribes, who have already submitted to his authority, and whom he is now supporting at an enormous expense far distant from his base of supplies, to the railroad company for an experiment. General Connor has a personal history character- istic of America. He was born in Ireland, came early to New York with his parents, enlisied in the United States cavalry, when a young man, for ser- vice in our Indian territory, served out his regular term, lived in Texas, rejoined the' army during the Mexican war, and became a captain, removed to California, prospered in business as a farmer and otherwise, again took up arms for his country when the rebellion broke out, and was appointed colonel of a California regiment, and thence, by his well- 28 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. recognized experience and his services in this re- gion, was advanced to a brigadiership, and assigned, some two or three years ago, to the command of the military district of Utah. He is an intelligent and accomplished gentleman, in the prime of life and power, strict in discipline, clear and strong in thought and in its expression ; and if willing to continue in the service, as I am sure the govern- menl ought to be most earnest to have him, and sustained in his policy, he will most honorably and usefully connect his name with the disposition of the two great questions of our national responsi- bility and duty in this quarter— the Mormons and the Indians. Twenty-five years ago. General Con- nor left Fort Leavenworth, on the Missouri River, a private in the United States regular army. Last week he, visited it a second time, a Brigadier-gen- eral and the Commander of the District of the Plains, comprising a larger territory, and embracing more delicate and important responsibilities than any other single military district in the country. The contrast of the two facts tells the whole story of his character and his history, and sustains my judgment of him. The reception of Speaker Colfax and his party on their arrival here was very enthusiastic and flatter- ing. They were met and welcomed by Governor Evans and other territorial officers and a committee of the citizens of Denver ; in the evening there was a large popular gathering to pay personal respect to the visitors; and Mr. Colfax, Mr. Bross, and Mr. Richardson made eloquent and effective speeches. r c r V a h tl k n( th th lENT. crvices in this re- ihip, and assigned, I the command of [e is an intelligent I the prime of life lear and strong in and if willing to 1 sure the govern- to have him, and lost honorably and the disposition of national responsi- -the Mormons and ago, General Con- he Missouri River, ;gular army. Last le, a Brigadier-gen- he District of the ory, and embracing ;sponsibilities than ict in the country. ;lls the whole story y, and sustains my fax and his party on usiastic and flatter- :omed by Governor ers and a committee le evening there was J personal respect to Mr. Bross, and Mr. i effective speeches. MR. COLFAX'S SPEECH AT DENVER. 29 Mr. Colfax was especially happy and felicitous ; pub- lic speaking is as natural and easy to him as swim- ming to a duck; and he repeated President Lin- coin s partmg suggestions and messages to the mi- ners with pathetic fidelity, and they were received with mournful interest and deep plersure. Public and private courtesies a/e showered upon him and his friends. They start this morning for a visit to the rnmes and the mountains, which will occupy four days, when they will return here, and again take up their progress westward, in the long ride to Utah next Saturday. They arc all in good health and the best of spirits-not alcoholic-aud very glad they came; esieciallyvour g ^^ LETTER IV. THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS AND THEIR GOLD MINES. Denver, Colorado, June 2. ' We have been spending an interesting week among the Rocky Mountains ; riding and driving up and down their ragged sides, through their nar- row valleys, and over their occasional plains ; ford- ing their turbulent streams; gazing with never- ceasing delight upon their various forms of beauty, under cloud and storm and sunshine, their snow- capped peaks, their deep ravines and narrow gorges, their purpling, shadowed sides and tops, their high pinnacles of rock, monuments of Creation and His- tory; and then, descending into the golden mines, following tortuous veins of precious rock, hundreds of feet beneath the surface, tracing the specks of gold among the comparative dross of iron and cop- per and lead, hobnobbing with the dusty miners in their dreary workshops, faintly illuminated with oc- casional candles, and then, ascending to day and light again, watching the processes for extractmg the wealth from the ore,— the irresistible grinding of the stamps, the washing with much water, the securing with copper and mercury, the ^ter-delay- ir ti ai S b( m m th w ar ni sp tCi ar pi; sn fin as cit ba nil se( ste are Ra do< Eu bef sur upc HEIR GOLD MINES. IVER, Colorado, June 2. ' ti interesting week riding and driving 1, through their nar- asional plains ; ford- gazing with never- ous forms of beauty, inshine, their snow- s and narrow gorges, and tops, their high of Creation and His- o the golden mines, cious rock, hundreds acing the specks of ross of iron and cop- the dusty miners in illuminated with oc- cending to day and :esses for extracting irresistible grinding ith much water, the cury, the Jrfter-delay THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS VS. THE ALPS. 3 1 ing with blankets : all the rarest wonders and beau- ties of Nature, all the divinest patience of Labor and the faith of Knowledge, all the mysteries of Science and the intricacies of Art have been spread before us during these crowded days among the mines and the mountains of Colorado. How the mind runs back to one's youinful, vague, mythical knowledge of the Rocky Mountains in their actual presence ! How difficult to realize that, whereas, twenty years ago, they and their location and character and the region about them were al- most unknown, now, two weeks from home, I am sporting familiarly under their shadows, following tediously up their sides, galloping in the saddle around their summits, drinking from their streams, playing snow-ball in June with theiv imperishable snow banks, tlescending into their very bowels, and finding companionship and society as various and as cultured and as organized as in New England ; cities of thousands of inhabitants, not only at their base, but away up in their narrow valleys, eight and nine thousand feet above the sea level! All this seems dream-like, yet weary head and sore feet and stern statistics testify to the reality. As to the mountains, as a natural spectacle, they are first cousins to the Alps. When the Pacific Railroad is done, our Switzerland will be at our very doors. All my many and various wanderings in the European Switzerland, three summers ago, spread before my eye no panorama of mountain beauty surpassing, nay none equaling, that which burst upon my sight at sunrise upon the Plains, when I- 32 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. k t?^ fifty miles away from Denver ; and which rises up before me now as I sit writing by the window in this city. From far south to far north, stretching around in huge semi-circle, rise the everlasting hills, one upon another, one after another, tortuous, pre- senting every variety of form and surface, every shade of cover and color, up and on until we reP-ch the broad, snow-covered range that marks the high' est summits, and tells where Atlantic and Pacific meet and divide for their long journey to their far distant shores. To the North rises the king of the range. Long's Peak, whose top is fourteen thousand six hundred feet high ; to the South, giving sourc; to the Arkansas and Colorado, looms up its brother, Pike's Peak, to the hight of thirteen thousand four hundred feet. These are the salient features of the belt before us ; but the intervening and succeeding summits are scarcely less commanding, and not much lower in hight. Right up from Denver stands the mountain top that was the scene of Bicrstadt's " Storm in the Rocky Mountains," and up and down these mountain sides were taken many of the stud- ies that he is reproducing on canvas with such de- light to his friends and fame for himself. No town that I know of in all the world has such a panorama of perpetual beauty spread before it as Denver has in this best and broadest belt of the Rocky Moun- tains, that rises up from the valley in which it is built, and winds away to the right arid to the left as far as the eye can see — fields and woods and rocks and snow, mounting and melting away to the sky in a line often indistinguishable, and sending ba pa de of- soi SOI fan anc Mc the knc of Thi our rich hiU- feet, no ( limi red suni ore ishec Tl terril ters i the r creel the s some are C i^9^y^" INENT. and which rises up ; by the window in ir north, stretching ;he everlasting hills, )ther, tortuous, pre- and surface, every d on until we rep.ch hat marks the high- Atlantic and Pacific journey to their far ises the king of the s fourteen thousand Jouth, giving sourc; ooms up its brother, rteen thousand four lient features of the ing and succeeding nmanding, and not from Denver stands scene of Bicrstadt's s," and up and down n many of the stud- invas with such de- • himself No town las such a panorama )re it as Denver has if the Rocky Moun- ^alley in which it is ight and to the left Ids and woods and melting away to the shable, and sending THE COLORADO GOLD MINES. 33 back the rays of the sun in colors and shapes that pamt and penal never reproduced, that poetry never described. These are sights that the eye never tires of-these are visions that clear the heart of earthly sorrow, and lead the soul up to its best and highest sources. ° Leaving nature for the material, beauty for booty, fancy for fact, I come to speak of the mineral wealth and development of this section of the Rocky Mountains. And, unless I deny the evidence of the senses, and the testimony of experience and knowledge, I must coincide in the inexhaustibleness of the one and the wonderfulness of the other. This whole vast range of mountains, that divides our Continent, seems indeed crowded with veins of ri^h mineral ore. They run into and through the hiU-sides as the bars of a gridiron,-every hundred feet, every fifty feet, every twenty feet. There is no end to them in number; there is no apparent limit to their depth; one hundred feet, three hund- red feej and four hundred feet have the miners sunk suafts, and did we descend, but the veins of ore hold their course and their richness undimin- ished, oftenest enlarged. The chiefest development of these mines in this territory lies along and up the Clear Creek, and cen- ters around its sources some forty miles up and in the mountains west from Denver. Here, along the creek and some narrow gulches leading into it, within the space of five miles, is gathered a population of some SIX to seven thousand. The principal villages are Central City, Black' Hawk and Nevada, holding 34 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. ) ii rank in the order named. These are most uncom- fortably squeezed into little narrow ravines, and stuck into the hill-sides, on streets the narrowest and most tortuous that I ever saw in America; som< houses held up in dizzy hights on stilts, others bur rowed into the stones of the hill, with a gold "lode' in the back yard, and often a well issuing from a rock of precious metals. But here these towns are, thriv ing, orderly, peaceable, busy, supporting two of them each its daily paper, with churches and schools, and all the best materials of government and society that the East can boast of. Down in the close val- leys, and up the steep hill-sides to the very top, rise Vhe mills for grinding out the gold, or the shanties that cover the shafts that lead down after the ore. Farther away, on the mountains, thick as ant- • hills or prairie-dog-holes, and looking the same, are "lodes" or leads of mineral, discovered, dug into, pre-empted, but not worked— hundreds, thousands of them, with fortunes or failures involved in their development, ready to be tried when the discoverer gets time or money, or turned over to a Wall street stock company of five millions capital. Forty or fifty miles below Denver, near what is called the South Park, a beautiful table-land of meadow and wood between Pike's Peak and the main range, is the second center of mineral devel- opment in Colorado territory; but this one upon Clear Creek is, as yet, the scene of largest improve- ment and population. Other sections of the terri- tory are probably as rich in valuable ore ; some are well believed to fee much more so ; no part of the m 01 w CJ ar a§ th or w< er pa do du of mi hi| ha tw mi an( Ea mu cut bee nej exf the cot] atic mir 1^595" •INENT. :se are most uncom- larrow ravines, and ;ts the narrowest and r in America; somt on stilts, others bur 11, with a gold "lode" 11 issuing from a rock hese towns are, thriv' pporting two of them ;hes and schools, and ^rnment and society town in the close val- s to the very top, rise gold, or the shanties ead down after the )untains, thick as ant- looking the same, are discovered, dug into, -hundreds, thousands ires involved in their I when the discoverer over to a Wall street 5 capital. Denver, near what is eautiful table-land of Pike's Peak and the Iter of mineral devel- f] but this one upon ne of largest improve- r sections of the terri- aluable ore ; some are ore so ; no part of the THE QUARTZ MILLS. 35 mountains may be held wholly barren ; it happens only that these localities were most attainable, and were first lit upon by the early comers. What is called gulch mining, or washing the sand and soft and pulverized rock of the valley, for the gold that ages of rains have filtered out of the solid rock of the mountains, is about over in Colorado— we see only now its abundant ruins in sluices, piles of worked over earth, and the rotting simple machin- ery sometimes used; yet in some of the fresher gulches, this work is still profitable; and we saw pan washings that turned out one, two and three dollars to the pan, I have a dollar's worth of gold dust that I saw washed out from about three quarts of earth, in less than ten minutes of time. The chief attention now is given to the solid mining ; but for various causes, principally from the high prices of labor and provisions, all raining here has been dull for nearly a year. Not more than twenty or twenty-five of the one hundred stamp mills in the territory are now at work. With labor and food from three to four times as high as at the East, growing mainly out of the interruption to com- munication by the Indians, and the inflation of the currency last year, and the short supply of laborers because of the war, and with gold now reduced to nearly par, mining hardly pays expenses. When expenses get back, as they are soon likely to do, to the currency standard, the business will again be- come profitable, and be actively resumed. Prepar- ations are fast making for this now, and mills and mines are being set in order, and resuming work. 36 ACROSS THE CONTINENT, Another reason of the dull times is that much of the best property has been changing hands, passing from the early or original owners and workers into joint stock companies, owned mainly in the East, which in some cases are not conducting the busi- ness so wis 'y as their predecessors, and in others are stoppir^g for a better labor and supply market, or to enlarge and improve their works. Again, it is beUeved the mining interest is on the eve of great 'mprovements in the processes of extracting the gold from its associate metals and sulphides, and owners of mines and mills a . experimenting in this direction, or are content to wait for the results of others' experiments. The common process of crushing the ore into fine powder, and then washing the same upon cop- per plates coated with quicksilver, which collects the disintegrated gold, or is supposed to, it is well ascer- tained gets but about twenty-five per cent, of all the precious metal. Three-quarters goes off in the " tail- ings," or refuse, as they are called. With such a waste, only the most valuable of the ore pays ex- penses at such times as these. Good ore yields about one hundred dollars in gold per cord, or twelve dol- lars per ton, under the stamping and quicksilver pro- cess. This leaves a fair margin under favorable management, for getting out the ore costs about forty dollars a cord, hauling five dollars, and crush- ing and extracting twenty dollars. Choice ores yield three hundred dollars a cord ; but these are rare. The difficulty is not in separating the gold from the pure copper, iron or lead, or the quartz with which / '\ itii whi my; chc feet ists on 1 abr its c leav so i orig whi( of p gold emb lars or c( nally hunc ton ( what stam "des this, done, isfact mine: dollai hund; at ab( much ^ -v *i„ [NENT. es is that much of ging hands, passing rs and workers into nainly in the East, anducting the busi- ssors, and in others and supply market, ir works. Again, it t is on the eve of cesses of extracting s and sulphides, and xperimenting in this it for the results of ishing the ore into the same upon cop- :r, which collects the id to, it is well ascer- re per cent, of all the I goes off in the " tail- zied. With such A of the ore pays ex- Jood ore yields about • cord, or twelve dol- and quicksilver pro- gin under favorable the ore costs about e dollars, and crush- s. Choice ores yield but these are rare, ng the gold from the le quartz with which V NEW INVENTIONS FOR EXTRACTING GOLD. 37 it is compacted ; but the sulphurcts of these metals, which suffuse and coat the whole, are the plague and mystery. These cover and hold the gold in a stern chemical lock, how to break which in a simple, ef- fective way is the great study of the mineral chem- ists and mining capitalists. Various processes are on trial ; one which we saw applies a hot flame and a brisk wind to all the pulv . .-^ed ore, which changes its chemical character, burns up the sulphurets, and leaves the metals all free ; then they are scoured, so as to brighten the gold, and then washed, as originally, in copper pans coated with quicksilver, which, better than any other article in these days' of paper currency and forgotten coin, knows the gold when it sees it, and sticks to it with fraternal embrace. This process was getting twenty-five dol- lars a ton from the "tailings" or refuse of the old or common process, or twice as much as was origi- nally obtained. Another process has obtained three hundred and seventy-five dollars from less than a ton of "tailings," which is probably many times what the originnl ore produced by the common stamping and washing. The object desired is to "desulphurize" the ore; both these inventions do this, though in diflferent wa>s. When the thing is done, and this season can hardly pass until it is sat- isfactorily accomplished, we shall see the Colorado mines yielding from five hundred to eight hundred dollars per cord of ore, instead of from fifty to two hundred and fifty dollars as now. (A cord is rated at about eight tons, though different ores vary very much in weight.) This rate of production wUl at 4 38 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. \ once put a new phase upon the business, afford al- most any price for labor and supplies, redeem all the mining companies from whatever present em- barrassments they feel, stimulate, the investment of capital in these mines with great rapidity, and even, by generous dividends, go far to excuse that vicious system of putting up a mining company's stock to one, two, three and five millions, when the actual cash investment was not over as many hundreds of thousands. This last habit of parties interested in the mining business has had a most fatal influence upon the whole interest ; the small dividends upon large, many times watered capitals have erroneously represented the state of the business ; and the suspicions and dis- trust, that the operation has surely scattered among outside capitalists, haVe '-ndered if not forbidden investments. Few or none of the companies now operating here have spent over two hundred and fifty thousand or three hundred thousand dollars for their mines, machinery and mills, yet their capi- tals are reckoned by millions ; and of course in hard times like these they can afford no adequate, seduc- tive dividends on such swollen sums. How much better it would be to have the shares in a half mil- lion company, worth twice the par value, and receiv- ing dividends of twelve to fifty per cent., than with a nominal capital of two or three millions, the stock selling for seventy-five dollars per share, and receiv- ing small dividends with doubt and irregularity, no honest, sensible man can fail to see. I meet no manager of a mine here, whether an old miner or an cor anc pra ten gul cou is 1 nee to I 1 is r rep( last in t orC a sr nati out I ited airin proc with thes Intel veyo ing ( lions noth chan ural: succ< T<:: > NENT. business, afford al- upplies, redeem all atever present em- 3. the investment of ; rapidity, and even, excuse that vicious company's stock to IS, when the actual s many hundreds of rested in the mining influence upon the ids upon large, many neously represented e suspicions and dis- ely scattered among ed if not forbidden the companies now ;r two hundred and ed thousand dollars mills, yet their capi- md of course in hard I no adequate, seduc- i sums. How much shares in a half mil- par value, and receiv- f per cent., than with ee millions, the stock per share, and receiv- t and irregularity, no to see. I meet no ther an old miner or THE PRODUCT OF THE COLORADO MINES. 39 an agent from the home capitalists, who does not condemn, as foolish in itself, a fraud upon the public, and a damage to the whole' mining interest, this practice of making the nominal capitals from two to ten times the actual, in the generally vain hope of gulling the flats in Wall street or in New England country towns. This mining business of the West is too promising in real profit, too legitimate and necessary to the national wealth and development, to be trifled with in this weak and wretched way. The gross production of the Colorado gold mines is not correctly known. The United States mint reports only ten millions in all up to July first of last year. This puts the Territory next to California in total product, ranking her above North Carolina or Georgia in all their history; but it gives her only a small proportion of the whole production of the nation from the beginning till now,— ten millions out of six hundred millions, California being accred- ited with all but about forty millions of the gross amount Other authorities give Colorado's total production as over fifty millions, accrediting her with twenty mUlions in a single year ^1864;) but these figures are certainly as far the other way. An intelligent authority here (General Pierce, the sur- veyor-general of ^he Territory.) gives me the follow- ing estimates: 1862, ten millions; 1863, eight mil- lions; 1864, five millions. The falling off indicates nothing as to the real wealth of the mines, only changes in the business of producing, and the nat- ural results of high prices. The year 1 862 embraced successful gulch mining, and the first of the quartz 40 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. mining, under most favorable circumstances, follow- ing a year (1861) of depression and non-production far more fruitful of croakers than 1864 and the first half of 1865 have been. Just now the new Territo- ries of Idaho and Montana, in the far North, are drawing off the floating population, the gulch min- ers, and those eager for fortunes at a jump. The day of these is over here. Slow and sure is now the motto for Colorado, as for California. Her ca- pacity is proven, admitted; capital, science, labor and machinery will return twenty-five, fifty and one hundred per cent, on their investments ; but gold eagles are no longer picked up by the basketsfull, and hundred thousand dollar fortunes in a day or a month, are not to be had here, — but further on, if at all. The reports from Idaho and Montana, particu- larly the latter, are indeed astonishing ; the gulch mining, discovered and developing in Montana, is reliably reported to me as far richer than any ever realized in California or Colorado, paying steadily an oun e of gold (sixteen to eighteen dollars) a day to the man, and in some gulches two and three ounces a day. But these placers will soon be worked out ; these Territories, like their predecessors, will speedily come down to the hard-pan, and have to pick and powder and stamp and melt out their gold from the solid mountains that hold the original de- posits. Montana and Idaho, too, must hold out greater inducements at first, in order to secure their peopling and development, for the one is dependent on Oregon for supplies, and eight hundred miles aw£ con and fror fron rien tain stati Stai beyc adja^ thei whic Colo whic and thef foun( andf are n fast 1 the r over Irrig£ even and tl workf ican J be re; oppor tion -^ ■INENT. ircumstances, follow- and non-production in 1864 and the first low the new Territo- i the far North, are tion, the gulch min- les at a jump. The ow and sure is now CaUfornia. Her ca- ipital, science, labor ity-five, fifty and one .vestments ; but gold p by the basketsfull, irtunes in a day or a :, — but further on, if d Montana, particu- onishing; the gulch iping in Montana, is richer than any ever ado, paying steadily ghteen dollars) a day ches two and three s will soon be worked 2ir predecessors, will ird-pan, and have to d melt out their gold hold the original de- too, must hold out order to secure their the one is dependent eight hundred miles IRON AND COAL IN COLORADO, 41 away from a base at that; while Montana has to come this way for everything to eat and work with and IS at least one thousand six hundred miles away from railway and water communication. All reports, all facts, whether floating in the air from mouth to mouth, or ground out by hard expe- rience, and put down in black and white, go to sus- tain the broadest and fullest meaning of the dying statement of President Lincoln, that the United States hold the treasury of the world; and establish beyond reasonable doubt, that the countries of and adjacent to the Rocky Mountains are freighted with the most precious of ores-gold first, next silver, in which Nevada and Utah are most conspicuous, and Colorado not found wanting, and then copper (with which the Colorado mineral veins are richly loaded) and also lead, iron and coal. On the Plains, near the foot of the mountains, coal and iron are already found in abundant quantities, ar-l are being mined and put to practical use. Found, too. j ust where they are most needed, to take the place of the wood, now fast being drained from the mountains, and furnish the material for the machinery necessary to work over the ore and make available the finer metals Irrigation, already entered upon on a large scale even here, will supply agriculture with its lacking' and through and by all these means combining, and worked with the energy and enterprise of the Amer- ican people, stimulated by the great profits sure to be realized from wise and persevering use of the opportunities, the western half of the American na- tion will fast move forward in civilization and popu- I 1.% 42 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. f| lation ; this wilderness will blossom as the rose, and the East and the West will stand alike equal and together, knowing no jealousy, and only rivaling each other in their zeal for knowledge, liberty and civilization. But of what effect upon the currencies and the values of the world will be all this tide of gold and silver pouring into the lap of nations? Will their commerce and populations grow in ex- tent and want in equal proportions, and absorb what is to be so lavishly fed out to them ? Perhaps so. But these promises of the American nation and these resulting queries are rich in thought and study. »f Oi morn west throu when in his m the a doz logy quest natioi lamer with impre of th( his w eveni) tel in Terril tleme hundr TINENT. issom as the rose, and itand alike equal and ;y, and only rivaling nowlcdge, liberty and :t upon the currencies irill be all this tide of the lap of nations? pulations grow in ex- ;ions, and absorb what ) them? Perhaps so. :rican nation and these bought and study. LETTER V. OF PERSONS, NOT THINGS. DENVEn, Colorado, June 3. Our week in Colorado is ended ; we are off this morning for the seven days' stage ride north and west along the base of the Rocky Mountains, and through them at Bridger's Pass, to Salt Lake City, where we expect to worship with Brigham Young in his tabernacle on Sunday week. While here and m the adjacent mountains, Mr. Colfax has made half a dozen speeches, and redelivered his Chicago eu- logy upon President Lincoln, the latter at the re- quest of Governor Evans on the occasion of the national mourning (June ist,) for the loss of our lamented chief magistrate. He has been received with distinguished honor, made a most favorable impression, and encouraged the miners and people of the Territory in many ways by his presence and his words. Their compliments to him ended last evening by a grand gala supper at the principal ho- tel in this town, in which the leading officials of the Territory, General Connor, and the ladies and gen- tlemen of the village to the number of over one hundred participated. Though the tickets were M 44 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. twelve dollars each, which is a fair specimen of prices this way, they were soon in earnest demand at an advance of three dollars. The entertainment proved a brilliant one in every respect ; various and bountiful and elegant as a feast ; graceful and grace- fully rendered by both ladies and gentlemen as a compliment; and humorous, eloquent, interesting, and inspiring in its speeches. We go on in our journey with a rich sense of the hospitality and the kindness, the enterprise and the intellectual and so- cial culture of the people of Colorado, both in its City of the Plains and its Cities of the Mountains. Never was progress in wealth, in social and political organization, in the refinements of Anicrican home life, more rapid and more marked than in the brief history thus far of Colorado. Soon she will enter the Union as a State, holding not only the elements but the acquired realities of a noble and proud one, and contributing largely, as she has steadily done even as a Territory, to the common profit of the na- tion. From the beginning, Colorado has always sent more gold to the East than she has brought back in goods; and she is destined to be perma^ nently a profitable partner in the household. Your readers may like to know more of my com- panions on this long journey before we go farther on. Let me introduce them. As a public man, everybody knows about Mr. Colfax ; how prominent and useful he has been through six terms in Con- gress, and how, by virtue of his experience, ability and popularity, he has come to be Speaker, and stands before the country one of its best and most promi best t (listar as yo pcrsoi frank r ncss t pally f arena. one hi brown ower, Gcneri tcr an( life, an cies. liness i backwj his vie person: and he and mo persona and witi and thii success ^he is seeing, ; progres! is not c genius, i absence ^TINENT. is a fair specimen of on in earnest demand I. The entertainment yf respect ; various and it ; graceful and grace- j and gentlemen as a eloquent, interesting, 8. We go on in our the hospitality and the ;he intellectual and so- Colorado, both in its ties of the Mountains. , in social and political nts of Anicrican home irked than in the brief Soon she will enter not only the elements a noble and proud one, she has steadily done mmon profit of the na- , Colorado has always than she has brought destined to be perma- I the household, enow more of my com- y before we go farther n. As a public man, Ilolfax ; how prominent lUgh six terms in Con- his experience, ability le to be Speaker, and ke of its best and most PORTRAIT OF MR. COLPAX. 45 promismg statesmen. Rut this is not all, nor the best of the man. He is not one of tho.sc, to whom distan.:e lends enchantment ; he grows near to you as you get near to him; and it i.s, indeed, by hi.s personal qualities of character, by his simplicity, frankness, genuine good nature, and entire devoted- ness to what he considers right, that he has princi- pally gamed and holds so large a place on the public arena. Mr. Coliax is short, say five feet six, weighs one hundred and forty, is young, say forty-two, has brownish hair and light blue eyes, is a childless wid- ower, drmks no intoxicating liquors, smokes a la General Grant, is tough as a knot, was bred a prin- tcr and editor, but gave up the business for public l.fe. and ,s the idol of South Bend and all adjacen- cies. There are no rough points about him ; kind- I.ness IS the law of his nature ;-whilc he is never backward in difiering from others, nor in sustaining his views by arguments and by votes, he never is personally harsh in utterance, nor unkind in feeling, and he can have no enemies but those of politics and most of these find it impossible to cherish any personal animosity to him. In tact, he is unbounded, and with him it is a gift of nature, not a studied art : and this IS perhaps one of the chief secrets of his success in life. His industry is equally exhaustless ; -he is always at work, reading, writing, talking seeing, studying-I can't conceive of a single un- progressive, unimproved hour in all his life. He >s not of brilliant or commanding intellect, not a genius, as we ordinarily apply these words; but the absence of this is more than compensated by these il" 46 ACROSS THE OONTINENT. Other qualities I have mentioned,— his great good sense, his quick, intuitive perception of truth, and his inflexible adheren9e to it, his high personal in- tegrity, and his long and valuable training in the service of the peopla and the government. With- out being, in the ordinary sense, one of the greatest of our public men, he is certainly one of the most useful, reliable and valuable ; and in any capacity, even the highest, he is sure to serve the country faithfully and well. He is one of the men to be tenaciously kept in public life ; and I have no doubt he' will be. Some people talk of him for president ; Mr. Lincoln used to tell him he would be his suc- cessor; but his own ambition is wisely tempered by the purpose to perform present duties well. He certainly makes friends more rapidly and holds them more closely than any public man I ever knew; wherever he goes, the women love him, and the men cordially respect him ; and he is sure to be always a personal favorite, even a pet, with the people. The other official of the party, Lieutenant-Gov- ernor Bross of Illinois, is indeed our paterfamilias, our "governor," Hale and hearty in body and mind ; ripe with say fi%-five years and a wide expe- rience and culture in school, college and journalism ; cheery in temperament, enjoying rough, out-door life like a true, unspoiled child of Nature ; sturdy in high principles ; unaffected and simple in manners and feeling as a child ; a ready and most popular stump speaker ; enthusiastic for all novel experience, we all give him our heartiest sympathy and respect, and constitute him the leader of the party. Our best 1 ger, c Gove says 1 requii lumb< Collej and I Yo-k Chica has g( now t journ; the Si Mr. lived somet: preser Ofeas (with Bostor to lov( mance editori then w life; c then t( paper < and Co times ; as the the Soi riNENT. led,— his great good :eption of truth, and lis high personal in- lable training in the government, With- e, one of the greatest linly one of the most and in any capacity, to serve the country le of the men to be and I have no doubt of him for president ; he would be his suc- is wisely tempered by ent duties well. He apidly and holds them c man I ever knew; love him, and the men ; is sure to be always :, with the people, arty, Lieutenant-Gov- :ed our paterfamilias, hearty in body and jrears and a wide expe- oUege and journalism ; )ying rough, out-door 1 of Nature; sturdy in nd simple in manners idy and most popular or all novel experience, sympathy and respect, er of the party. Our GOVERNOR BROSS AND MR. RICHARDSON, 47 best foot, We always put him foremost, whether dan- ger, or dignity, or fun is the order of the occasion. Governor Bross was born in New Jersey, — and so says he never can be president, as -the Constitution requires that officer to be a native of the nation ; lumbered on the Susquehannah ; went to Williams College, Massachusetts ; taught school in Franklin and Berkshire counties ; ditto and married in New Yo-k ; and, following the star of empire, went to Chicago, and, entering on the editorial profession, has gone on from small to great things, until he is now the senior proprietor and editor of the leading journal of the North-west, and the second officer in the State government of Illinois, Mr, Richardson of the New York Tribune has lived on the borders of Bohemia for many years, sometimes on one side, sometimes on the other, and presents all the contradictions of such an existence. Of eastern Massachusetts birth and early education, (with a brother who is the able conductor of the Boston Congregationalist) he learncf' vhile young to love the smell of the printing office and the ro- mance of the reporter's life, and ran the round of editorial experience in nearly all our western cities; then was bitten by the passion for travel and border life; came out to Kansas for the Boston Journal; then to Colorado with Mr. Greeley, edited a news- paper out here during the early days of bowie knives and Colt's revolvers ; crossed the Plains half a dozen times ; went to Texas and New Mexico ; and finally, as the war came on, after making a secret tour of the South as a special correspondent for the Tribune, I i««aac«K*r-5S&»5M««»SS««SK If 48 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. became the head of th' Western and south-western army correspondents oi" that paper, and in under- taking to run the gauntlet of the rebel batteries at Vicksbui^, when General Grant opened his final cam- paign in that quarter, was captured by the enemy; — as their pet and special prisoner he went the rounds of their jails and pens, and after twenty months' servitude mnde his escape, and in a wonderful jour- ney of one month through the rebel country in win- ter, reached our lines in safety, and became a hero. Notwithstanding this long Bohemian life, amid rough people and in out-of-the-way places, Mr. Richardson imposes on you with the style and air of a man who has had a very narrow escape from the pulpit, and cherishes a natuval hankering for it yet. Certainly you never would recognize in him a true child of Bohemia. He wears black broadcloth and "biled shirts," (the western phrase for white under-clothes,) does not chew tobacco, disdains whiskey, but drinks French brandy and Cincinnati Catawba, carries a good deal of baggage, does not know how to play poker, and shines brilliantly among the ladies. He is a young widower of less than thirty-five, of me- dium size, with a light complexion and sandy hair and whiskers, and is a very companionable man. His large and peculiar experience in the West and in the South by field and flood, gives him a rich store of anecdote and illustration, with which he en- tertains us on our long stage rides. He is already . famous before the country ; and his new book of ex- periences in the South will make him much more so. It is probable he will stay longer on the Pacific shor Utal view Li gage then berf our ( roll. speci Holl: He a losop fills. and 1 with man c we la thoug nor a give 1 wond< makin and p] ing CO Ace public the hoi the mc and le; elers c tion a riNENT. [1 and south-western )aper, and in under- he rebel batteries at opened his final cam- red by the enemy ; — r he went the rounds fter twenty months' in a wonderful jour- rebel country in win- , and became a hero, imian life, amid rough ices, Mr. Richardson ind air of a man who from the pulpit, and For it yet. Certainly him a true child of roadcloth and "biled white under-clothes,) 5 whiskey, but drinks i Catawba, carries a )t know how to play long the ladies. He m thirty-five, of me- sxion and sandy hair companionable man. :nce in the West and od, gives him a rich on. with which he en- "ides. He is already d his new book of ex- ake him much more longer on the Pacific "A DISTINGUISHED COMPANION." 49 shore than the rest of the party, and perhaps revisit Utah, the Mhiing Regions and Mountains, with the view of making a book upon them another season. Looking-glasses are banished from overland bag- gage, and the fourth member of the party must, therefore, remain unsketched. But there is a num- ber five, who is occupying too important a share in our experience, to be forgotten in any call of the roll. This is Mr. George K. Otis of New York, the special agent and representative of our host, Mr Holladay of the Overland Mail and Stage Line.' He accompanies us in the capacity of guide, phi- losopher and friend, which he most generously ful- fills. Himself, under Mr. Holladay, the organizer and manager of the stage line, he is acquainted- w;th all this region and its people; and being a man of infinite jest and of free and generous nature, we lack nothing under his protecting care, which a thoughtful generosity, nor a practical experience nor abounding humor and wide intelligence can give us. His puns are some^-'nes "fearfully and wonderfully made"; but he earns forgiveness by making himself a large share of our daily comfort and pleasure. Happy those who fall to the travel- mg companionship of Otis ! Accompanying so distinguished and popular a public officer as Mr. Colfax, we share mutually in the hospitalities extended to him ; we have access to the most intelligent sources of information; we see and learn in a short time what ordinary private trav- elers could only gain by long and careful observa- tion and examination. Everywhere, so far the 5 4 ' ^f kiM 50 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. ' ' I . people of the towns visited are bountiful in their courtesies; the journey is one continued ovatipn; public receptions and entertainments, and the choi- cest of private hospitalities are showered upon us; and we find that neither the graces nor the culture of life are confined to the East. They flourish here among the Rocky Mountains as beautifully as in the parlors of Boston, or the sweet groves of the Con- necticut valley. Most agreeable of all our experiences here are the intelligent, active, earnest, right-minded and right-hearted young men and women we meet ; peo. pie, many of whom have been here for years, but, instead of losing anything of those social graces that eastern towns and cities are wont to think themselves superior in, have not only kept even pace ih these, but gained a higher play for all their faculties, and ripened,,with opportunity and incen- tive and necessary self-reliance, into more of man- hood and womanhood. Everywhere, too, I find old friends and acquaintances from the Connecticut valley; and nowhere do I find them forgetting old Massachusetts, or unworthy her parentage, i see less drunkenness ; I see less vice here among these towns of the border, and of the Rocky Mountains, than at home in Springfield ; I see personal activity and growth and self-reliance and social development snd organization, that not onl> reconcile me to the emigration of our young people from the East to this region, but will do much to make me encour- age it. To the right-minded, the West gives open opportunity that the East holds close and rare ; and lO SI they Tl lray( of N hims Majc some their Miss forth Plain line, is no' contr i( not at At exten red at miles throu] From hundr ownec manaf agent! used i New ] Lake, north ; Idaho ern Oi riNENT. •e bountiful in their ; continued ovatipn; ments, and the choi- j showered upon us; •aces nor the culture , They flourish here } beautifully as in the t groves of the Con- experiences here are it, right-minded and /omen we meet; peo^ 1 here for years, but, F those social graces :s are wont to think not only kept even jher play for all their pportunity and incen- ce, into more of man- ywhere, too, I find old rom the Connecticut d them forgetting old her parentage, i see vice here among these :he Rocky Mountains, I see personal activity md social development \\y reconcile me to the ople from the East to h to make me encour- l, the West gives open ids close and rare ; and THE OVERLAND STAGE LINE. 51 lo such, opportunity is all that is wanted, all that Ihcy ask. The great Overland Stage Line, by which we are Imelmg, was originated by Mr. William H. Russell of New York, and carried on for a year or two by hunself and partners, under the name of Russell Majors and Waddell. They failed, however, and some three years ago it passed into the hands of their chief creditor, Mr. Ben Holladay, an energetic Missourian, who had been a successful contractor for the government and for c- -at corporations on the Plams and the Pacific. He has since continued the hne, improvmg, extending and enlarging it until it is now, perhaps, the greatest enterprise owned and controlled by one man, which exists in the country If not in the world. His line of stages commence at Atchison, on the Missouri River: its first section extends across the great Plains to Denver, six hund- red and fifty miles ; from here it goes on six hundred miles more to Salt Lake City, along the base of and through the Rocky Mountains at Bridger's Pass From there to Nevada and California, about seven hundred and fifty miles farther, the stage line is owned by an eastern company, and is under the management of Wells, Fargo & Co., the express agents. All this is a daily line, and the coaches used are of the best stage pattern, weU known in New England as the " Concord t jach." From Salt Lake, Mr. Holladay runs a tri-weekly coach line north and west nine hundred and fifty miles through Idaho to the Dalles on the Columbia River in north- ern Oregon, and branching ofT at Fort Hall, also a 52 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. .^^ 5 i tri-weekly line to Virginia City in Montana, four hundred miles more. From Denver, too, he has a subsidiary line into the mountain centers of Cen- tral City and Nevada, about forty miles. Over all these routes he carries the mail, and is in the re- ceipt for this service of six hundred and fifty thou- sand dollars per annum from the government. His whole extent of staging and mail contracts — not counting, of course, that under Wells, Fargo & Co., from Salt Lake west,— is two thousand seven hun- dred and sixty miles, to conduct which he owns some six thousand horses and mules and about two hun- dred and sixty coaches. All along the routes he has built stations at distances of ten to fifteen miles ; he has to draw all his corn from the Missouri River ; much of his hay has also to be transported hun- dreds of miles ; fuel for his stations comes frequently fifty and one hundred miles ; the Indians last year destroyed or stole full half a million dollars' worth of his property, — ^barns, houses, animals, feed, &c. ; he pays a general superintendent ten thousand dol- lars a year; division superintendents a quarter as much; drivers and stable-keepers get seventy-five dollars a month and their living ; he has to mend and in some cases make his own roads — so that, large as the sum paid by the government, and high as the prices for passengers, there is an immense outlay, and a great risk in conducting the enterprise. Dur- ing the last year of unusually enormous prices for everything, and 'extensive and repeated Indian raids, Mr. Holiaday has probably lost money by his stages. The previous year was one of prosperity, and the next chin( ties, great a stn stacl( larity the e of thi sion natur andb of hi small ence But 11 these where and ii of los disco\ for th( as Mr. him h velopi public nity a to the his st£ hundn hundn dollars riNENT. ty in Montana, four Denver, too, he has a tain centers of Cen- jrty miles. Over all lail, and is in the re- adred and fifty thou- le government. His mail contracts — not • Wells, Fargo & Co., ;housand seven hun-. t which he owns some J and about two hun- ong the routes he has ten to fifteen miles; 1 the Missouri River ; be transported bun- ions comes frequently the Indians last year million dollars' worth ;s, animals, feed, &c. ; ent ten thousand dol- endents a quarter as ;pers get seventy-five J ; he has to mend and jads — so that, large as [lent, and high as the s an immense outlay, the enterprise. Dur- f enormous prices for repeated Indian raids, t money by his stage-?. jf prosperity, and the MR, HOLLADAY AND HIS STAGES. 53 next is likely to be. But with so immense a ma- chine, exposed to so many chances and uncertain- ties, the returns must always be doubtful. Only a great man would assume such an enterprise; only a strong man could carry it through, over such ob- stacles as are constantly presented ; and the regu- larity, the promptness and the uniform high state of the entire service, in general and particular, make of the whole a matter of real wonder, and an occa- sion of great credit to Mr. Holladay, It is very natural that he should be unpopular along his route, and be denounced as a monopolist, taking advantage of his monopoly to extort high prices and give small accommodations ; this is the universal experi- ence^ of such great enterprises in a new country. But It would be difficult, if not impossible, through these infant and struggling years of this country,— where travel and business of all kinds are uncertain and irregular, and prices fluctuating, and the risk of losses frj3m Indians and robbers very great,— to discover here or elsewhere the man or the means for the performance of this great service so perfectly as Mr. Holladay does it ; and I am inclined to reckon him high among the agencies that are so fast de- veloping the great western Territories of the Re- public, and to doubt if many others in the commu- nity are doing their share in the work more fairly to the public than he is. The passenger fares by his stages are ndw, from Atchison to Denver one hundred and seventy-five dollars, to Salt Lake three hundred and fifty dollars, to Nevada five hundred dollars, to California five hundred dollars, to Idaho 54 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. five hundred dollars, to Montana five hundred dol- lars. These are much higher than they were two years ago, ■ nd will probably be reduced during the season, as safety from the Indians and lower prices for food and corn are assured, from thirty-three to fifty per cent. Mr. HoUaday now resides in New York City, and is reported to be immensely wealthy, — say five mil- lions. He owns and runs, also, lines of steamships in the Pacific Ocean from San Francisco, north to Oregon and British Columbia, and south to Mazat- lan, Mexico, with contracts for the mails on both ro«te.j from our government or from Maximilian of Mexico. He conducts all this immens? business successfully by the choice of able and trusty mana- gers to whom he pays large salaries. Mr. John E. Russell, formerly of Greenfield, Massachusetts, is his confidently secretary and financier at New York ; Mr. George K. Otis is his special agent at Washing- ton ; Mr. William Reynolds, a life-long stage mana- ger, dating his education as such back to Chester W. Chapin, Horatio Sargent and Frank Morgan in Springfield, but since with large experience in the South and California, is the general manager of the overland line, resident at Atchison ; and his (Mr. HoUaday's) brother resides at San Francisco in charge of his steamships. Mr. HoUaday visits his overland line about twice a year, and when he does, passes over it with a rapidity and a disregard of expense and rules, characteristic of his irrepressi- ble nature. A year or two ago, after the disastef to the steamer Golden Gate on the Pacific shore. "INENT. la five hundred do!-- than they were two ! reduced during the ans and lower prices from thirty-thiee to New York City, and salthy, — say five mil- ), lines of steamships I Francisco, north to , and south to Mazat- tr the mails on both r from Maximilian of is immens? business ible and trusty rnana- alaries. Mr. John E. [.Massachusetts, is his ancier at New York ; :ial agent at Washing- i life-long stage mana- such back to Chester and Frank Morgan in irge experience in the eneral manager of the xhison ; and his (Mr. at San Francisco in Ir. HoUaday visits his ear, and when he does, ty and a disregard of istic of his irrepressi- ago, after the disastef on the Pacific shore, T/AST RIDES OVER THE PLAINS. 55 by which the only partner nc ever had, Mr. Edward Rust Flint, son of old Dr. Flint of Springfield, lost his life, and himself barely escaped a watery grave, he made the quickest trip overland that it is possi- ble for one man to make before the distance is shortened by railway. He caused himself to be driven from Salt Lake to Atchison, twelve hundred and twenty miles, in six and one-half days, and was only twelve days and two hours from San Francisco to Atchison. The trip probably cost him twenty thousand dollars in wear and tear of coaches id injury to and loss of horses by the rapid driv.ng. The only ride over the Plains, at all comp- able with this, was that made by Mr, Aubrey, on a wager, from Santa Fe to Independence, seven hundred miles, in six and one-half days. But this was n.ade on horseback, and when the rider reached s desti- nation, he was so exhausted that he had to oe lifted from his horse. How exciting the thought of such rides as these across these open fields and through these mountain gorges, that make up the half of our Continent! ^^. LETTER VI. A SUNDAY IN THE MOUNTAINS. Virginia Dale, Colorado, June 5. There are no aristocratic distinctions between the days of the week west of the Missouri. The Broad Church rules here, and so broadly that even Saint Burleigh of your modern Florence would find hearty welcome, particularly from our red brethren, who would rate his scalp with its ornaments at the value of a dozen of the ordinary sort. Sundays are as good as other days, and no better. Stages run, stores are open, mines are dug, and stamp mills crush. But our eastern prejudices are not yet alto- gether conquered by the "spirit of the age;" and so, on reaching here yesterday morning at sunrise, we commanded a twenty-four hours' halt. Possi- bly our principles had a point put to them by learn- ing from the down stage that Mr. " Lo, the poor Indian " had got loose up the line, stolen the horses, and interrupted communication. . At any rate, — be the motive fear for our scalps or fear for our souls, — we followed the fashion of our forefathers, and slept through the day, some of us in the coach, the rest stretched out on the piazza of the only house in Virgin even in snow-c ing ou harmoi psalm Lodj Spcakt and tv, and tot side wz and hu in at fr quite a; form of tion th this nil science! tainly s 'caving load of ( whom cling h£ solaced paths St somewh the pret Virgil Iively-lo< of perha tains, — f hills, — st 71. [OUNTAINS. »ALE, Colorado, June 5. istinctions between :he Missouri. The broadly that even Florence would find m our red brethren, ts ornaments at the ary sort. Sundays no better. Stages lug, and stamp mills ces are not yet alto- it of the age;" and morning at sunrise, hours' halt. Possi- ut to them by learn- Mr. " Lo, the poor le, stolen the horses, . At any rate, — be fear for our souls, — jrefathers, and slept the coach, the rest ■ the only house in SWEET VIRGINIA DALE. 57 Virginia Dale ; clambering up a high rock in the cvenmg to view the landscape o'er of valley, stream snow-clad mountain, and far-distant i)lain. and clos- ing out our observances with a mure hearty than harmonious rendering of our small repertoire of psalm tunes. Lodgings are not extensive in this locality; the Speaker borrowed a bed ; two slept in the coach ; and two of us rolled ourselves up in our blankets' and took the floor. I hit upon a board whose hard tHde was accidentally put up; and what with this, and hungry and dry and noisy stage drivers coming m at from two to four a. m., and less vociferous but quite as hungry invaders of our bodily peace in the form of vermin, the night brought more of reflec- tion than refection—to us. Hut we are off early this niurning, having satisfied our Christian con- sciences, ,^nd learned that the Indians were cer- tainly still one hundred and fifty miles away, but leaving behind for a Monday's rest a fresh stage load of eager gold seekers and Salt Lake merchants, whom our scruples on the subject of Sunday trav- eling had thrown one day behind. But they were solaced by the arguments that we would make the paths straight for them above, that they must stop somewhere, and that here was the best food and the prettiest cook on the line. Virginia Dale deserves its pretty name. A pearly, lively-looking stream runs through a beautiful basin,' of perhaps one hundred acres, among the moun- tains,— for we are within the embrace of the great hills,— stretching away in smooth ancWising pasturs 58 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. t m to nooks and crannied of the wooded range ; fronted by rock embaltlcment, and Hanked by the snowy peaks themselves; warm with a June sun, and rare and pure with an air into which no fetid breath h?3 poured itself —it is difficult to imagine a more lova- ble spot in natures kingdom. It is one hundred miles north from Denver, half of the way along the foot of the hills, crossing frequent streams, swollen and angry with the melting snows, and watering the only really green acres we have seen since leaving; Kansas ; and half the road winding over and around and between the hills that form the approaches to the Rocky Mountains. Only the station of the stage line occupies the Dale ; a house, a barn, a blacksmith shop ; the keeper and his wife, the latter as sweet, as genteel and as lady-like as if just trans- planted from eastern society, yet preparing bounti- ful meals for twice daily stage-loads of hungry and dirty passengers ; the stock-tender and his assist- ant,— these were all the inhabitants of the spot, and no neighbors within fifteen miles. For the day, our party and its escort,— the soldiers lying off on the grass by the water with their camp fire and their baggage wagon, — made unusual life, and gave a pe- culiar picturesqueness to the sequestered spot. How women, especially, can live contentedly in these out-of-the-way places pn the borders, working hard and conltSlitly. a«l^3!^|^|pugh and selfish men, and preserve their "terider iemininity, keep them- selves neatly and sometimes even gracefully dressed, and not forget their blushes under free compliments, would be passing slrange, if we did not see it daily in ( of 1 out soc; hur chi< cou ove Wa are and 1 pas! forr its ] to t thoi gon est, are ing esta here for 1 men the cant new isinf for 2 cess in S' ITINENT. roodcd range ; fronted laiikcd by the snowy V a June sun, and rare ch no fetid breath hrs I imagine a more lova- I. It is one hundred [ of the way along the jUent streams, swollen lows, and watering the ive seen since leavin^; nding over and around •rm the approaches to ily the station of the e; a house, a barn, a and his wife, the latter dy-like as if just trans- , yet preparing bounti- ;e-loads of hungry and -tender and his assist- bitants of the spot, and miles. For the day. le soldiers lying off on heir camp fire and their sual life, and gave a pc- ; sequestered spot. :an live contentedly in E' ; borders, working h and selfish men, linity, keep thcm- even gracefully dressed, under free compliments, r we did not see it daily MOKE Ul' COLOKAUO. 59 in our journey, and know it by the whole history of the se.x. 1 certainly have seen young women out here, miles away from neighbors, knowing no society but their husbands and children and the hurried travelers, — depending on the mails for their chief knowledge of what the world is doing,— who could pass without apology m gaucherie to presiding over a Boston dinner party or receiving in state at Washington. Not all, indeed, are such, but they are frequent enough to be noted with both surprise and pleasure. This is the northern border of Colorado. We pass to-day into Dacotah. Before parting with the former Territory, let me note a few facts about it and its people. Colorado has now not over twenty-five to thirty thousand population, which is five to ten thousand fewer than in i860. The adventurers arc gone. What remain are the substantial, the earn- est, who have cast in their lot with the Territory, are satisfied witli its promise, and are wisely work- ing for the construction of a State and their own estate. A very large proportion are men who came here four, five and six years ago, and have a reason for the faith that* is in them. Last year, a move- ment to become a State failed, mainly because of the unpopularity of the men prominent in it, and candidates for its principal oflfices. It will be re- newed this year, under more favorable and prom- ising auspices. The pojiiilation is'too small, indeed, for a State ; but there are advantages in it, and ne- cessities, almost, for it, that justify both the people in seeking and the general government in recog- i 60 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. nizing the change. The Territory has great inter- ests, national indeed in character, needing more vigorous interpretation and espousal at Washing- ton than can be secured by a delegate. The popu- lation is compact and enterprising and ambitious ; willing to assume the burdens of a government for tl'.emselves ; and appreciating the advantages they will get from it. One especial motive with the Coloradians for making a State government is to get a judiciary of their own, that shall be both more intelligent and independent than that furnished by the Washing- ton authorities. The men sent out to these new Territories as judges are not apt to be of a very high order either of morals or intellect. They are often hungry adventurers ; and their salaries bearing gen- erally no comparison to the cost of living in these remote regions, and large pecuniary interests often being involved in the questions brought before them, — as is especially the case in the mining Ter- ritories, — they are too apt to yield to the tempta- tions offered to them, and sell their judgments for a price. However this may be in Colorado's recent experience, her best citizens are convinced that they can get a higher morality, a stricter justice, and a more intelligent law from judges of their own selec- tion and paying, than from those sent out here and paid by " Uncle Sam." A case has just occurred in the mining districts, not illustrating, as I know of, the venality of the federal judiciary, but calculated, at least, to bring it into contempt. General Fitz John Porter, famous as G love bett as' s vein latte part an ir ever they sive to C( coul( Smil Thei Judg smol coul( most not I them griev then courl and 1 Utah he w his U office ways ion, 1 Terri NENT. A CASE OF "CONTEMPT. 6i )ry has great intcr- ter, needing more ousal at Washing- legate. The popu- ng and ambitious ; f a government for le advantages they le Coloradians for ) get a judiciary of ore intelligent and i by the Washing- out to these new to be of a very high :t. They are often ilaries bearing gen- : of living in these iary interests often IS brought before in the mining Ter- eld to the tempta- heir judgments for ti Colorado's recent ;onvinced that they icter justice, and a of their own selec- ; sent out here and le mining districts, he venality of the at least, to bring it )hn Porter, famous as General McClellan's pet, and notorious as having loved his patron and his spite against General Pope, better than his country and her service, is out here as' superintendent of some mines. He claimed a vein, that belonged to Smith & Parmalee, as the latter thought, and began working it. The other party resisted ; Judge Harding sustained Porter by an injunction against Smith & Parmalee ; but when- ever Porter's men undertook to work in the vein, they found it filled with such sulphurous and offen- sive smoke that they could not stay in it, and had to come out. How the smoke came there, no one could tell; but, as the vein connected with the Smith & Parmalee mine, everybody could guess. Thereupon Smith & Parmalee were brought before Judge Harding on alleged "contempt of court," for smoking out the party of the other part : nothing could be proven against them, however; but the most learned judge decided that the defendants had not dtsfrovcn the alleged contempt,' and so held them in five thousand dollars bail ! The judicious grieved, the unskillful laughed, and everybody said there could be no contempt too great for such a court as that. This Judge Harding is from Indiana, and was first sent by Mr. Lincoln to be Governor of Utah, but becoming offensive and ineffective there, he was recalled, and given this judgeship to break his fall. But beside a broken character as a public officer, he brought hither such scandalous, Mormon ways of living, as to shock all shades of public opin- ion, which is now uniting to drive him out of the Territory. J 62 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. As the great need of the business men and min- ers in Colorado is male laborers, so chat of the housekeepers is female laborers or " help." House- keeping in large families — and children do accu- mulate surprisingly here^-is a very serious burden to the wives and mothers. Their eastern sisters, in their direst woes with poor servants, c?»n have but faint appreciation of the burdens of li^ m^- and entertaining here, where, cooks and waiting girls are not to be had at any price. We go to rich dinners and bountiful teas at the homes of distin- guished and wealthy citizens, and sit and eat with- out the company of hostess or any other ladies. Slie and her friends are busy in the kitchen, and come out only to stand behind our chairs, and change the plates and pass the viands. There is an un- comfortable feeling in being thus entertained ; but it is the necessity of the country, and all parties make the best of it. The price of the commonest of female labor is two dollars a day and board. But the Colorado ladies have their compensations ; their husbands complain that they can get no goo(jB^no machinery^ out from the States under a year from the time of ordering—that all business, all progress must wait this long delay ; yet the ladies shine in the latest fashions of millinery and dress- making. Modes that were but just budding when T left home, I find in full blossom here. How it is done I do not understand — there must be a subtle telegraph by crinoline wires ; as the southern ne- groes have what they call a grape-vine teleg»a!ph. The burden laid upon all agricultune, the absolute V a s a t y n d b g a r t. fl n n ii o tl tl il s d 1 ri tl ti tl n (JENT. less men and min- rs, so ihat of the Dr"help." House- children do accu- ery serious burden eir eastern sisters, servants, c?n have •dens of li^ m^" and and waiting girls !. We go to rich e homes of distin- d sit and eat with- ( other ladies. SI.e kitchen, and come :hairs, and change . There is an un- is entertained; but try, and all parties of the commonest a day and board, eir compensations ; they can get no the States under a --that all business, lelay ; yet the ladies lillinery and dress- ust budding when I m here. How it is re must be a subtle IS the southern ne- pe-vine tele^iaph. ;ultune, the absolute y *Ki_;jJfc .--» IRRIGATION. 63 want of all horticulture as yet in all this country, are among its serious drawbacks. The winds, the sun, the porous yet unfriable soil, the long seasons of no or inadequate rain, leave all vegetation gray and scanty, except it is in direct communication with the water-courses. Trees will not live in the house yards ; house owners can have no turf, no flowers, no fruits, no vegetables — the space around the dwellings in the towns is a bare sand, relieved only by infrequent mosses and weeds. The grass is gray upon the plains ; cotton-wood and sappy pine are almost alone the trees of the mountain region ; no hard wood is to be found anywhere; and but for the occasional oases by the streams, and the rich flowers that will spring up on the high mountain morasses, the country would seem to the traveler nearly barren of vegetable life. But what there is is rich in quality ; the coarse and gray bunch grass of plain and prairie, of hill-side and rocks, affords the best of nutriment for horses, cattle and sheep ; they grow fat fast upon it in summer, and exist upon it in winter. Even here, where, in June we see snow on the hill-sides close to us, and shiver under double blankets at night, the cattle live out of loors through the long winter. It is, indeed, a rich grazing country, and will support its herds on thousands. Irrigation is a necessity for all extensive cultiva- tion of the soil, however ; and the extent to which this is already being employed, and the amount of money invested in it, are occasions of surprise. But with the far distance of all competing production, 64 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. and the great fertility of the soil when thus devel- oped, it will richly pay to carry vater from the mountain streams miles on miles from their natural courses, and spread it by little artificial rivulets over acres on acres of grains, potatoes and the other vegetables. A plan is in progress of execu- tion for bringing a large water-course some fifteen miles around Denver, and letting it out in gentle, fructifying streams all over the town and its adja- cent farms and gardens. Then will this now barren wilderness of store and house and sand blossom like the rose ; then can door-yards be green with grass, shaded with trees, and beautiiul with flowers. Meantime, the people must live on canned fruits and vegetables irom the East; and possess their esthetic souls in patience, for the rest, in magnify- ing their mountain view of charming yet constant beauty. The exteudivc and common use of these imported productions of our eastern orchards and gardens in all the country west of the Missouri River, is most astonishing. They are on every ta- ble; few New England housekeepers present such a variety of excellent vegetables and fruits, as we r.iKl everywhere here, at every hotel and station :-- A, and at every private dinner or supper. Corn, ' latoes, beans, pine apples, strawberry, cherry and peach, with oysters and lobsters, are the most common ; and all of these, in some form or other, you may fiequently find served up at a single meal. These canned vegetables and fruits and fish are sold, too, at prices which seem cheap compared with the cost of other things out here. They range eac up doll C two and thei dre( tion port curr Floi cent doll: seve butt ciga cent dolla mola fourt five Mon FIou cent! lar, c tweh dred rible distai .,_...i. ;nt. vhen thus devel- vater from the om their natural irtificial rivulets otatoes and the ogress of execu- rse some fifteen it out in gentle, vvn and its adja- this now barren d sand blossom s be green with ful with flowers, n canned fruits id possess their ■est, in magnify- ng yet constant lon use of these ■n orchards and )f the Missouri are on every ta- TS present such id fruits, as we itel and station supper. Corn, iwberry, cherry rs, are the most ! form or other, it a single meal, ts and fish are heap compared e. They range PRICES IN COLORADO. 6s fu*f. fifty cents to one dollar a can of about two quarts. Families buy them in cases of two dozen each at twelve to fifteen dollars a case; while away up in Montana, *hey are sold at only twenty-seven dollars a case. Colorado has four daily and four weekly papers, two each at Dfenver, and one each at Black Hawk and Central City, in the mining region ; and though their circulation is small— some five to seven hun- dred each— the large prices they get for subscrip- tions, for advertising and for printing, serve to sup- port them all liberally. Let me close with the current Colorado rates of staples and luxuries: Flour twenty cents a pound, meal twenty-three cents, hams fifty cents, lard forty cents, syrup five dollars per gallon, cheese seventy-five cents, coffee seventy-five cents, brown sugar forty-five cents, butter sixty cents, milk fifty cents per quart, best cigars fifty cents each, printing paper sixty-eight cents per pound, daily paper, per year, twenty-four dollars, weekly seven dollars, brooms one dollar, molasses four dollars and a half per gallon, boots fourteen dollars per pair, common labor, per day, five dollars. • And here are some of the latest Montana prices, twelve hundred miles farther on: Flour fifty to sixty cents a pound, hams seventy-five cents, golden syrup eight dollars, cheese one dol- lar, crackers ninety cents, beans fifty cents, wood twelve to fifteen dollars per cord, lumber one huii- dred dollars per thousand. The high price and ter- rible quality of whisky and other liquors in all these distant Territories are operating as a very effective S L.. 66 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. temperance agent. I see very little of them or of their effects anywhere. Some of the vernacular of the mountains is suf- ficiently original and amusing to be reported, also. A "square" meal is the common term for a first rate one; "shebang" means any kind of an estab- lishment, store, house, shop, shanty; '^outfit" has a wider range, your handkerchief, your suit of clothes. the cut of your hair, your team, your whole posses- sions, or the most infinitesimal part or item there- of; and "affidavit" signifies anything else that these other terms do not cover. FRC \ the rid< the see It i Ind free to! hav bro of con pro all' mo pin ery froi the NENT. little of them or of ; mountains is suf- be reported, also, )n term for a first Y kind of an estab- ity; '[outfit" has a ^our suit of clothes, your whole posses- part or item there- hing else that these LETTER VII. FROM DENVER TO SALT LAKE— THROUGH THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. Salt Lake City, June 12. We finished early yesterday (Sunday) morning the second and severest third of the great stage- ride across the Continent. We are now two-thirds the way to California, and the rest of the journey seems easy compared to what has been |MW5ed over. It is through a more peopled country, frtSer from Indian raids, and will be relieved to us by more frequent resting-places. The distance from Denver to Salt Lake City is six hundred miles ; we should have driven it in five days but for the Indians, who broke in upon the line before us and cleaned it out of horses for fifty miles, threw the country into confusion and travel into anxiety, and delayed our pr9gress for two or three days, so that we were in all seven days in the trip. But we just escaped more severe possible disaster; for the "pesky sar- pints," as they are not unnaturally reckoned by ev- erybody in the West, hovered close upon both our front and our rear ; our escort drove off a band of them who wfire attacking a train of repentant r. .cl (I 68 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. returning Mormons, right in our path ; and they swooped in upon a stage station the night after we passed it, stole all its horses, killed the two stock- tenders, also three of the five soldiers who were located there as guard, and severely if not mortally wounded the other two. But though our escort was small over this line, never over ten cavalrymen, and sometimes none at all, our coach came through unmolested. Whether these fresh Indian inroads in this quar- ter presage a general Indian war, are by pretended friendly tribes or those known to be inJni^ai, are mainly for getting supplies of horses, which has seemed to be the principal object, or inspired by general hate and bloodthirstiness, or, so far as they have fallen upon the "Josephites" or deserting Mor- mons, have been directed by some of the leaders of the Latter Day Saints here to put a stop to this sort of depletion of their power and population; whether they are by petty straggling bands, led by desperate white robbers, or are the advance couriers of all the warlike tribes of the Plains and the Moun- tains, — there is only one course to be pursued with regard to them, and that General Connor is now doing with lew energy. He will guard and patro/ the whole n ain overland road, as he has been do' ing the lower part of it, with cavalrymen and in- fantry, and give an escort to every stage ; from tht military posts, every one hundred to two hundred miles along the route, he will send out scouting parties to track up the marauders ; if the raids and murders can be traced to friendly tribes, as has %■ PJENT, r path; and they the night after we led the two stock- soldiers who were ely if not mortally though our escort er ten cavalrymen, >ach came through roads in this quar- , are by pretended be inJni^ai, are lorses, which has ct, or inspired by , or, so far as they or deserting Mor- e of the leaders of )ut a stop to this ■ and population; ling bands, led by 5 advance couriers ins and the Moun- be pursued with il Connor is now guard and patro/ 5 he has been do- valrymen and in- y stage ; from tht 1 to two hundred end out scouting ; if the raids and lly tribes, as has k THE INDIAN QUESTION. 69 been done in one or two cases, he will demand those eht,aged in it, and failing to get them will seize and hang some of the principal chiefs;— he will re- taliate quickly and sharply; and then, with a large force, now gathering at Fort Laramie, he will go in pursuit of the great body of the hostile Indians in the North, and inflict upon them a sharp punish- ment ;— and so conveying to them all the knowledge of our power and purpose to make them peaceable, do the best and only thing to secure their friend- liness. The government is ready to assist in their support, to grant them reservations, to give them food and make them presents; but it must and will, with sharp hand, enforce their respect to travel, their respect to lives and property, and their respect to trade throughout all this region. And if this cannot be secured, short of their utter extermination, why extermination it must be.. Else, we may as well a,bandon this whole region ; give up its settlement, its subjugation to civilization, its de- velopment to wealth and Christianity. It is the old eternal contest between barbarism and civiliza- tion, between things as they have been and are, and material and moral progress; and barbarism and barbarity must go to the wall, somewhat too roughly perhaps, as is always the case with new, earnest, material communities, but yet certainly. The Mor- mons have exhausted -the Quaker policy towards the Indians ; have fed and clothed them for years, paying them in all ways heavy subsidies, in consid- eration of being let alone ; but they are growing tired of it, both because it is expensive, and is not k 70 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. sure of success. Only a few clays ago, some In- ilians attacked the Mormons at a settlement about eighty miles south of here, and kilV'd '-ighteen or twenty persons. Brigham Yc( .; id either offi- cials of Church and State v/cnt dc- • ' investigate the matter and restore peace ; they have just come back, reporting success, and laying part of the blame on the whites, but still with less of the old disposition to subsidize the barbarians. Montana is disturbed with reports of Indian out- rages ; this whole region of mountains and plains is sensitive and suffering with the apprehensions or the realities of their general recurrence ; commerce suffers ; prices go up ; emigration stops ; and all the development of the great West is clogged. No wonder is it, then, that the entire white population of the Territories clamors for positive measures of restraint and punishment. The red man of reality is not the red man of poetry, romance, or philan- thropy. He is false and barbaric, cunning and cowardly, attacking only when all advantage is with him, horrible in cruelty, the terror of women and children, impenetrable to nearly every motive but fear, impossible to regenerate and civilize. The whites may often be unjust and cruel in turn ; but the balance is far against the Indian ; and the country must sustain the government and General Connor in pursuing a vigorous offensive and defen- sive policy towards him. Do not suppose, however, we lost sleep or rations, or eyes for passing scenery, as we rolled over the mountains, and passed the divide between the great ocea own inim Govi amo; marl we c baco gest; for < vegc time to so bour awaj der succ tend Tl are 1 bran thel The four rarei then- fish - ver £ at th Hall whic moui SIENT. ays ago, some In- a settlement about killed f-ightcen or •,, id other offi- c » ' investigate ey iuve just come tying part of the ith less of the old arians. orts of Indian out- Lintains and plains e apprehensions or rrence; commerce ion stops ; and all ;st is clogged. No e white population »sitive measures of red man of reality omance, or philan- laric, cunning and 1 advantage is with tor of women and r every motive but and civilize. The cruel in turn ; but Indian ; and the iment and General »ffensive and defen- ost sleep or rations, we rolled over the e between the great i THE ANTELOI'E AND TKOl'T. n oceans of America. Wc rested proifdly on our own prowess and the rifles of our escort. We had immense faith in the double-barreled shot-gun of Governor IJross; and we created terrible alarm among some emigrants in our rear by firing at a mark in our front. So we ate our antelope, when we could get it, and our "mountain chicken" (fried bacon) regularly, with faith in its undisturbed di- gestion, and cuddled up each in his corner at night for equally reliable sleep. The canned fruits and vegetables and clean table-cloths disappeared for a time after Virginia Dale, but the antelope came in to soften the fall ; one of our escort shot one of the bounding beauties as he stopped, five hundred yards away, to gaze through his limpid, liquid eyes in won- der on our turn-out; and we found him and his successors most luscious eating — very delicate deer, tender, melting and digestible. The antelopes weigh from sixty to eighty pounds, are fawn-like in color and appearance, have short, branching horns, and are plenty at all seasons upon the high plains and in the mountains of the region. The elk, as large as a small cow, and with horns four to six feet long, and the black-tailed deer are rarer game; this is not the season for shooting them ; and they cling closer to the mountains. Of fish we had but few ; trout were as abundant as fe- ver and ague in Indiana, but always a little way off, at the next brook or station. The soldiers at Fort Halleck had just made captive a cinnamon bear, which strayed down into camp from an adjoining mountain; and our stage gave a wide berth to a _j,-*u--- 73 ACROSU TUB CONTINENT. Im grizzly bear, which was taking his midnight nap in the middle of the road. The grizzly was the only animal that our courage and our double-barreled shot-gun were not equal to ; and he is, indeed, next to the Indian, the terror of all hunters. We missed, too, the .sage hen, a favorite game of the region, but not of the season ; rabbits scented our approach and scooted away out of shot ; the retreat of the hungry, thievy-looking woU" was hastened by our balls ; only the ridiculous little prairie dogs and the funnier and littler squirrels — beautifully striped with black, and hardly bigger \.h.:n a mouse — sported carelessly in our warlike f. esence. The scant, coarse vegetation of the Plains and of Denver's neighborhood grew green and rich in out memory, as we came on north and west from Virginia Dale, entered the Laramie Plains, passed along on the snow line, crossed the mountain range at Fridger's Pass, and went out upon the country of the Bitter Creek. The Desert of the Mountains is far drearier and more barren than the Desert of the Plains. That seems redeemable and has its uses ; this is only for trying the patience and tax- ing the ingenuity of man. There is very little to redeem the middle two hundred miles of our ride from utter worthlessness for human service. The soil is sand, so saturated with alkali as to poison its water, and to give the earth the appearance, in spots, sometimes for large areas, of a fresh hoar frost or a slight snow. Grass is only a spasmodic tuft. The sage bush is the chief, almost only vegetation — a coarse, wild form of our garden sage, growing ^^bb. <ENT. is midnipht nap in izzly was the only ar double-barreled he is, indeed, next Iters. We missed, : of the region, but ited our approach the retreat of the i hastened by our •airic dogs and the itifuUy striped with a mouse — sported e. of the Plains and green and rich in •th and west from nic Plains, passed le mountain range upon the country t of the Mountains han the Desert of nable and has its patience and tax- re is very little to miles of our ride nan service. The ali as to poison its ipearance, in spots, 2sh hoar frost or a smodic tuft. The only vegetation — len sage, growing IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 ■ 50 ^^" Ki I.I u ^ ■ 40 1 2.5 2.2 20 lUI 1 i.25 1 1.4 1 1.6 ^ 6" » Photographic Sciences Corporation R* 73 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14S80 (716)872-4503 ws CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CIHM/ICMH Collection de microfiches. Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions / Institut Canadian de microreproductions historiques M^MMM^^- THE DESERT OF BITTER CREEK. y^ rugged and rough from one to three feet high ; yet mules and cattle sometimes will eat it because they must or die, and it does make quick, hot fire for the emigrants' and wagon-drivers' kettles— but think of savoring your food with soap and sage tea ; think of putting a soap factory and an apothecary shop into one room, and that ^our kitchen ! Through all this inhospitable, barren region, there are no buildings " save the stage stations ; no inhabitants but the . stock-tender and the station-keeper ; an occasional tented wigwam of half-breed or father of half-breeds stands by a stream: we pass with pity the emi- grant's slow wagon and the mule train— hot and dusty and parched by day, cold and shivering and parched by night ;— it is a wonder how people can go alive through this country at the rate of only twelve and fifteen miles a day, and finding food and dnnk as they go. B\it they do, year by year, thou- sands by thousands. Shall the Indian still add to the horrors of the passage, as he has and does.? The road, too, grows rough ; sluices and gulches are frequent and deep; rocks begin to abound; and the stage staggers about in a way frightful to all exposed parts of the body. Yet we do not seem to be gomg over the highest range of mountains in the country; we are passing rather through hardly per- ceptible rising valleys; and though the mountains that guard us on either side grow nearer and lower to us, they always seem to be above us rather than under us. Striking the North Platte, as it first comes out of the mountains, but rough and rapid as are all the streams of the mountains at this season 74 ACRO?S THE CONTINENT. of melting snow, and some thousand miles from where we parted company with it at Julcsburg on the Plains, to follow its southern sister to Denver: we enter upon the night ride through Bridger's Pass, from the Atlantic to the Pacific slopes of the Rocky Momitains. You need to be told what you are do- ing There is no slow hill-climbing; the horses trot the stage along; and the soldier escort gallop behind. Not through valleys still, but apparently along and up the beds of departed rivers, with mountain walls on either hand,— sometimes ten or twenty miles wide, and again narrowing to rods, but oftenest miles in width; on one side bare, per- pendicular walls of rock, thrown into all imagmable and unscientific combinations of the origmal or sub-original formations, and since carved and fluted by wind and sand and rain into all and every shape that architecture ever created, or imagination fan- cied- on the other, rounded hill-side with scant verdure and occasional stunted tree and frequent snow-bank. Not in one continuous bed or valley, wc. ur upward course, but a succession of such, leading one into another. , So we rode on through the clear twilight, that lingers till nine and ten o'clock in this region, into the rich moonlight that only gave new form and beauty to the rocks, and out into the morning dawn that hastens on at two to three; watching the wa- ter to see which way it ran, and building Pacific Railroads along these easy grades back to home and forward to fame and fortune. I was in the saddle, <ralloping with the captain of the escort; but the carlii IIlin( shou more wint( vast 1 of th diffic mal ] was 1 saddl and i Th and J and ( curioi mirac low Ci as to and c But t somet work fantas valley plain, cathec ing is( family long li formec again JENT. )usantl miles from it at Julcsburg on sister to Denver: ugh Bridger's Pass, lopes of the Rocky d what you are do- nbing; the horses oldicr escort gallop till, but apparently parted rivers, with —sometimes ten or narrowing to rods, one side bare, per- 1 into all imaginable of the original or :e carved and fluted all and every shape or imagination fan- hill-side with scant i tree and frequent tiuous bed or valley, succession of such, I clear twilight, that I in this region, into gave new form and :o the morning dawn e ; watching the wa- and building Pacific ies back to home and I was in the saddle, the escort ; but the THE ARCHITECTURE OF THE WINDS. 75 earlier and more enthusiastic lieutenant-govetnor of Illinois, who kept guard with the driver on the box, shouted out the passage over the line— it was no more than a " thank-ye-marm " in a New England's winter sleigh-ride, yet it separates the various and vast waters of a Continent, and marks the fountains of the two great oceans of the globe. But it was difficult to be long enthusiastic over this infinitesi- mal point of mud ; the night was very cold, and I was sore in unpoetical parts from unaccustomed saddles, and I ?:ot down from all my high horses, and into my comer of the stage, at the next station.' The effect of the high winds and blowing sands and sharp rains of this region upon the soft rock and clay of some of these hills, is certainly very curious. These agencies have proved wonderful miracle-workers. Wind-augers Mr. Fitzhugh Lud- low called them, I believe ; but some of his stories as to their performances are purely imaginative, and only excite ridicule among the mountaineers. But the tall, isolated rocks, that surmount a hill, sometimes round, but always even and smooth as work of finest chisel; the immense columns and fantastic figures upon the walls of rock that line a valley for miles ; the solitary mountains upon the plain, fashioned like fortresses, or rising like Gothic cathedral, and called duties (a French word signify- ing isolated hill or mountain), separated from their family in some great convulsion of nature; the long lines of rock embankment, one above another, formed sometimes into squares like a vast fort, and again running along for miles, a hundred feet above I , 76 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. the valley, looking like the most perfect of railroad embankment, with the open space occasionally for a water course ;— these and kindred original fashions of nature, with details indescribable and picturesque, constitute the sole redeeming feature for scenery of the country I have been describing, and arc a con- stant excitement and inspiration to the traveler. One of the most curious single specimens of this natural architecture, that we passed on our road down the Pacific slope, is called "The Church Butte," and is familiar to all overland travelers. At a distance, it looms up on the level plain, a huge, ill-shapen hill ; near by, it appears the most mar- velous counterfeit of a half-ruined, gigantic, old- world Gothic cathedral, that can be imagined. We stopped before it just as the sun had gone down in the west, and as the full moon came up the eastern horizon, and the soft, contrasting lights, deepening slowly into shadowy dimness, gave exquisite devel- opment to the manifold shapes and the beautiful and picturesque outlines, that rock and clay had assumed. The Milan or the Cologne cathedral, worn with centuries, ill-shapen with irregular de- cay, could not have looked more the things they are or would be. than this did. Everything belonging to the idea was there in some degree of preserva^ tion. Porch, nave, transept, steeple, caryatides, monster animals, saints and apostles, with broken columns, tumbled roof, departed nose or foot, worn and crumbling features, were all in their places, or a little out, but recognizable and nameable. We walked around this vast natural cathedral of sand- stoni our light any won( or fa me f F'l thicli how refin and over, the { theh v/ith in w] sies i realij ness( of al phen rocks ever) it at .Ther rado from glass am on Platt( apprt I , KENT. perfect of railroad :e occasionally for a ;d original fashions ale and picturesque, iture for scenery of ling, and are a con- i to the traveler, e specimens of this tassed on our road died "The Church rland travelers. At level plain, a huge, ears the most mar- lined, gigantic, old- 1 be imagined. We n had gone down in came up the eastern ng lights, deepening ^ave exquisite devel- ;s and the beautiful rock and clay had Cologne cathedral, n with irregular de- e the things they are ;verything belonging degree of preserva- steeple, caryatides, ipostles, with broken 2d nose or foot, worn all in their places, or and nameable. We ral cathedral of sand- 'THE CHURCH BUTTE. 77 stone and clay — a full half mile — and greater grew our wonder, our enthusiasm. The hour and the light were certainly propitious ; but viewed unda- any light, it is certainly one of the great natural wonders of the Continent, and is chief among three or four things that have already abundantly repaid me for this long journey. Flowing out from the Butte on all sides was a thick solid stream of fine stone and clay, that told how the work was done, how it was going on still, refining, pointing, carving, chiseling, but gradually and surely leveling, as all mountains, the world over, are being leveled, and the whole surface of the globe made one vast plain. The share which the high winds and the sand they take up and blow v/ith powerful force in right lines, and in curves, and in whirls, have in this great work, both in its fanta- sies and in its destruction, is such as can hardly be realized by those who have not experienced or wit- nessed them. Sand showers or sand whirlpools are of almost daily occurrence. They load the atmos- phere with sand ; they carry it everywhere ; among rocks, into houses, through walls, into the bodies of everything animate and inanimate, and there keep it at its work of destruction and reconstruction. , There is a window among the mountains of Colo- rado that a single storm of this sort has changed from common glass into the most perfect of ground glass ; and the fantastic architecture of its creation among the rocks of the country, from the North Platte to Fort Bridger, can only be understood and apprecia*^ed by being seen. 79 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. As we approached Fort Bridger, the country grew fairer— sage bush gave way to grass; the streams became purer; timber lined the water courses; and the land became bearable indeed. Fort Bridger is an old and pleasantly located post ; a fresh river runs through the camp >ard; the val- ley looks sweet and green in June; and back rise the always beautiful and always snow-covered moun- tains. Here we stopped, had kind greeting at two o'clock in the morning, went to bed for the first time in a week, and after a sumptuous breakfast with :uJge Carter, the merchant and magistrate of the precinct, passed on and over inio the basin of the Great Salt Lake. But that day's ride, and our reception and experiences among the Mormons must wait another letter. We remain here for a full week. The grass is too green r the trees too new to our eyes; the roses too red and refreshing; Che strawberries and green pens too tempting to our carnal appetites; the curious social and wonderful material develop- ments of this city and Territory too rare and re- markable; and the hospitality of the people. Mor- mon and Gentile, too generous and invitmg, to per- mit us to leave hurriedly. THI L hith la.ic for Coh Gre; Con inde coui now its ] and thes thin bles hom elenc and that the i- , 4ENT. dgcr, the country /ay to grass; the • lined the water I bearable indeed, antly located post ; imp ) ard ; the val- une ; and back rise now-covered moun- ind greeting at two o bed for the first imptuous breakfast t and magistrate of er into the basin of day's ride, and our ong the Mormons reek. The grass is to our eyes; the he strawberries and ir carnal appetites; x\ material develop- iry too rare and re- of the people, Mor- and inviting, to per- LETTER VIII. THE WAV INTO UTAH : RECEPTION BY THE MOR- MONS. Great Salt Lakb C:ty, Utah, June 14. Leaving Fort Bridger for our last day's ride hither, we leave the first Pacific slopes and table- lands of the Rocky Mountains, drained to the south for the Colorado River and to the north for the Columbia, and go over the rim of the basin of the Great Salt Lake, and enter that Continent within ?, Continent, with its own miniature salt sea, and its independent chain of mountains, and distinct river courses ; marked wonderfully by nature, and marked now as wonderfully in the history of civilization by its people, their social and religious organization, and their material development. This is Utah — these the Mormons. I do not marvel that they think they are a chosen people ; that they have been blessed of God not only in the selection of their home, which consists of the richest region, in all the elements of a State, between the "Mississippi valley and the Pacific shore, but in the great success that has attended their labors, and developed here the most independent and self-sustaining industry mmm mmmm \ , 80 ACROSS TllK CONTINENT. that the western half of our Continent witnesses. Surely threat worUUy wisdom has presideil over iheir settlement and ort^anization ; there have been tact and statesmanship in the leaders ; there have been industry, frugality and inte^jrity in the people; or one could not witness such progress, such wealth, such varied triumphs of industry atid ingenuity and endurance, as here present themselves. Wc enter Utah over and among a new scries of hills, the belongings of the Wasatch Mountains, the first of the subsidiary ranges of the Rocky Mountains, and the eastern guard and parent of the Salt Lake valley. We have our finest day's ride yet along the crests of hills eight thousand feet high, and thn .gh valleys and gorges guarded by perpendicular walls of rock, all rich with a .spring verdure that is fresh and grateful to our eyes. We play at snow ball from the large white drifts that lie along our road ; and we pick abundant flowers at the same time. These spring up quickly with the grass, watered by melting snow, and inspired by the sun's hot heat ; for twice hot ft is compared with our eastern sun, in these high western regions. Some are new to mine eyes; many wear familiar faces, though greatly modified by change of soil and climate ; and above all other colors, the yellow predominates. Did you ever think this the favorite color of nature? What other clothes your mead- ows and these hills with buttercups and dandelions till green is out-borne by yellow? What other has more varieties of plants in its list — more shades in its blossoming? Here I find new ones ; among others fittlc to a pasli resp( we n in it! So sceni and ' snow ness mom sevei of a plunj ter u rrvora so th bruis actin, inac and s neck pling dizzy scene throu ley ir ruins the T marcl went KNT. itincnt witnesses, resided over tlieir re have been tact there have been in the people; or ress, such wealth, itid ingenuity and elves. ig a new scries of satch Mountains, es of the Rocky and parent of the • finest day's ride jht thousand feet orgcs guarded by ich with a .spring to our eyes. We white drifts that abundant flowers g up quickly with now, and inspired hot ft is compared h western regions, lany wear familiar by change of soil colors, the yellow ik this the favorite lothes your mead- ips and dandelions ' What other has -more shades in its les; among others ECHO CANYON. 8i fittlc sun flowers, a foot high, three i four blossoms to a plant, and plants as tiiick as j itains by the pasture path. Let us treat yellow, i hen. with more respect, since it is nature's chosen ; and learn, as we may, what variety and range of beauty there is in its shades. So we rolled rapidly through summer and wintci scenes, with sky of blue and air of amber purity, and when the round moon came up out from the snowy peaks, giving indescribable richness and soft- ness to their whiteness, we kept on and on, now up mountain sides, now along the edge df precipices several hundred feet high, down which the stumble of a horse or the error of a wheel would have plunged us ; now crossing swollen streams, the wa- ter up to the coach doors, now stammering through morass and mire, plunging down and bounding up so that we passengers, instead of sleeping, were bruising heads and tangling legs and arms in en- acting the tragedy of pop-rorn over a hot fir^ -"nd in a closed dish ; and now from up among the clouds and snow, we tore down a narrow canyon at a break- neck rate, escaping a hundred over-turns and top- pling on the river's brink until the head swam with dizzy apprehensions. Most picturesque of all the scenes of this day and night ride v s the passage through Echo Canyon, a very miniature Rhine val- ley in all but vines and storied ruin. The only ruins in' it were those of feeble fortifications which the Mormons set up when President Buchanan marched his army against them, but halted and went away without attack, leaving storCs of pro- 4* 6 wmmmmmmmsm «?«■ 82 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. visions, wagons and ammunition, and a contempt for the government, neither of which the Mormons have quite exhausted yet. Early "sun-up" brought us to the last station, kept by a Mormon bishop with four wives, who gave us bitters and breakfast, the latter with green peas and strawberries, and then, leaving wife number one at his home, went on with us into the city for parochial visits to the other three, who are located at convenient distances around the Territory. Finally we came out upon the plateau or " bench," as they call it here, that overlooks the valley of the Jordan, the valley alike of Utah Lake and the Great Salt Lake, and the valley of the intermediate Great Salt Lake City. It is a scene of rare natural beauty. To the right, upon the plateau, lay Camp Douglas, the home of the soldiers and a village in itself, holding guard over the town, and within easy cannon range of tabernacle and tithing-house ; right beneath, in an angle of the plain, which stretched south to Utah Lake and west to the Salt Lake- land Jordan rolled between,"— was the city, regu- larly and handsomely laid out, with many fine build- ings, and filled with thick gardens of trees and flowers, that gave it a fairy-land aspect; beyond and across, the plain spread out five to ten miles in width, with scattered farm-houses and herds of cattle ; below, it was lost in dim distance ; above, it gave way, twenty miles off, to the line of light that marked the beginning of Salt Lake — the whole flat m a floor and sparkling with river and irrigating cStials, and overlooked on both sides by hills that ■"SPB^ LU JENT. and a contempt for the Mormons have in-up" brought us )rmon bishop with and breakfast, the ^berries, and then, lome, went on with } to the other three, stances around the plateau or " bench," cs the valley of the Lake and the Great intermediate Great le of rare natural plateau, lay Camp :rs and a village in vn, and within easy ithing-housc ; right in, which stretched Lo the Salt Lake — -was the city, regu- ith many fine build- rdens of trees and nd aspect; beyond It five to ten miles lOuses and herds of I distance ; above, it he line of light that ^ake — the whole flat river and irrigating 1 sides by hills that SALT LAKE CITV. 83 mounted to the snow line, and out from which flowed tiie fatness of water and soil tliut makes this once desert valley blossom under the hand of industry with every variety of verdure, every product of almost every clime. No internal city of the Continent lies in such a field of beauty, unites such rich and raie elements of nature's formations, holds such guarantees of greatness, material and social, in the good time coming of our Pacific development. I met all along the Plains and over the mountains, the feeling that Salt Lake was to be the great central city of this West ; I found the map, with Montana, Idaho, and Oregon on the north, Dacotah and Colorado on the east, Nevada and California on the west, Arizona on the south, and a near connection with the sea by the Colorado River in the latter direction, suggested the same : I recognized it in the Sabbath rnorning picture of its location and possessions; I am con- vinced of it as I see more and more of its opportu- nities, its developed industries, and its unimproved possessions. Mr. Colfax's reception in Utah was excessive if not oppressive. There was an element of rivalry between Mormon and Gentile in it, adding earnest- ness and energy to enthusiasm and hospitality. First "a troop cometh," with band of music, and marched us slowly and dustily through their Camp Douglas. Then, escaping these, our coach was way- laid as it went down the hl'l by the Mormon au- thorities of the city. They ordered us to dismount ; we were individually introduced to each of twenty « I L. ^ 84 ACR .^S THE CONTINENT, of them ; we received a long speech ; we made a long one — standing in the hot sand with a sun of forty thousand Icns-powcr concentrated upon us, tired and dirty with a week's coach-ride: was it wonder that the mildest of tempers rebelled? — transferred to other carriages, our hosts drove us through the city to the hotel ; and then — bless their Mormon hearts — they took us at once to a hot sul- phur bath, that nature liberally offers just on the confines of the city, and there we washed out all remembrance of the morning suffering and all the accumulated grime and fatigue of the journey, and came out baptized in freshness and self-respect. Clean clothes, dinner, the Mormon tabernacle in the afternoon, and a Congregational ("Gentile") meeting and sermon in the evening, were the other proceedings of our first day in Utah. Since, and still contihuing, Mr. Colfax and his friends have been the recipients of a generous and thoughtful hospitality. They are the guests of the city; but the military authorities and citizens vie together as well to please their visitors and make them pleased with Utah and its people. The Mor- mons are eager to prove their loyalty to the gov- ernment, their sympathy with its bereavement, their joy in its final triumph— which their silence or their slants and sneers heretofore had certainly put in some doubt — and they leave nothing unsaid or un- done now, towards Mr. Colfax as the representative of that government, or towards the public, to give assurance of their rightmindedness. Also they wish us to know that they are not monsters and mure mam on h rest, wise a gn socia genci pitali grcer apric ever enad( with what ment has t to th( comji home Bros5 dress "dist mutu W< Salt : you f nicke men to be Engl; turne \ . INT. ech ; we made a nd with a sun of ntrated upon us, lach-ride : was it pers rebelled? — r hosts drove us then — bless their ance to a hot sul- >ffers just on the e washed out all fering and all the the journey, and and self-respect, ion tabernacle in onal ("Gentile") ig, were the other ;ah. r. Colfax and his )f a generous and the guests of the ; and citizens vie /isitors and make eople. The Mor- :)yalty to the gov- jereavement, their -Mr silence or their 1 certainly put in ling unsaid or un- the representative the public, to give ness. Also they not monsters and PICNIC AT SALT LAKE. »5 murderers, but men of intelligence, virtue, good manners and fine tastes. They put their polygamy on high moral and religious grounds ; and for the rest, anyhow, are not willing to be thought other- wise than our peers. And certainly we do find here a great deal of true and good human nature and social culture ; a great deal of business intelli- gence and activity ; a great deal of generous hos- pitality — besides most excellent strawberries and green peas, and the most promising orchards of apricots, peaches, plums and apples that these eyes ever beheld anywhere. They have given us a ser- enade ; and Mr. Colfax has addressed them at length with his usual tact and happy effect, telling them what they have a right to expect from the govern- ment, and reminding them that the government has the right to demand from them, in turn, loyalty to the Constitution and obedience to the laws, and complimenting them on all the beauty of their homes arid the thrift of their industry. Governor Bross and Mr. Richardson also made happy ad- dresses, and the jprowd of the evening, and the "distinguished guests" gave every sign of being mutually pleased with each other. We have been t;iken on an excursion to the Great Salt Lake, bat.i.\: m its wonderful wate/s, on which you float like a cork, sailed on its surface, and pic- nicked by its shore, — if picnic can be without wo- men for sentiment and to spread table-cloth, and to be helped up and over rocks. Can you New Englanders fancy a " stag" picnic .' We have been turned loose in the big strawberry patch of one of • 86 ACIiO^o THE CONTINENT. the saints— very worldly strawberries and more worldly appetites met and mingled ; and we have had a peep into a moderate Mormon harem, but being introduced to two different women of the same name, one after another, was more than I could stand without blushing. In Mormon etiquette. President Brigham Young is called upon ; by Washington fashion, the Speaker is also called upon, and does not call— there was a question whether the distinguished resident and the distinguislKJ visitor would meet; Mr. Colfax, as was meet under the situation of affairs here, made a point upon it, and gave notice he should not call ; whereupon President Brigham yielded the question, and graciously came to-day with a crowd of high dignitaries of the church, and made, not one of Emerson's prescribed ten minute calls, but a gen- erous, pleasant, gossiping sitting of two hours long. He is a very hale and hearty looking man, young for sixty-four, with a light gray eye, cold and uncer- tain, a mouth and chin betraying a great and deter- mined will— handsome perhaps as to presence and features, but repellent in atmosphere and without magnetism. In conversation, he is cool and quiet in manner, but suggestive in expression ; has strong and original ideas, but uses bad grammar. He was rather formal, but courteous, and at the last affected frankness and freedom, if he felt it not. To his followers, I observed he was master of* that pro- found art of eastern politicians, which consists in ^tting the arm affectionately around them, and tenderly inquiring for health of selves and familie," • and was feet C the spei hen hail aK like tura of c ciat ges1 Bos con in ii Yor toll as i fath mer sam wee chill to s miu B the are citiz ■:ult <ENT. berries and more ;lecl; and we have ormon harem, but int women of the was more than I It Brigham Young ishion, the Speaker t call — there was j» ed resident and the et; Mr. Colfax, as affairs here, made he should not call ; ielded the question, h a crowd of high made, not one of te calls, but a gen- ; of two hours long, ooking man, young ;ye, cold and uncer- g a great and deter- as to presence and sphere and without le is cool and quiet >ression ; has strong grammar. He was i at the last affected felt it not. To his naster of* that pro- 3, which consists in ' around them, and selves and familie," • HEDER KIMBALL, ET AL. 87 and when his eye did sparkle and his lips soften, it was with most cheering, though not warming, ef- fect — it was pleasant but did not melt you. Of his companions, Heber C. Kimball is perhaps the most notorious from his vulgar and coarse speech. He ranks high among the "prophets" here, and is as unctuous in his manner as Macassar hair oil, and as pious in phrase as good old Thomas a Kempis. He has a very keen, sharp eye, and looks like a Westfield man I always meet at the agricul- tural fairs in Springfield. Dr. Bernhisel has an air of culture and refinement peculiar among his asso- ciates ; he is an old, small man, venerable, and sug- gestive of John Quincy Adams, or Dr. Gannett of Boston, in his style. Two or three others of the company have fine faces — such as you would meet in intellectual or business society in Boston or New York, — but the strength of most of the party secftis to lie in narrowness, bigotry, obstinacy. They look as if they had lived on the same farms as their fathers and grandfathers, and made no improve- ments ; gone to the same church, and sat in the same pew, without cushions; borrowed the same weekly newspaper for forty years ; drove all their children to the West or the cities ; and if they went to agricultural fairs, insisted on having th"eir pre- miums in pure coin. But the hospitality of Utah is not confined to the Mormons. The "Gentiles" or fton-Mormons are becoming numerous and influential here, and, citizens and soldiers, comprise many families *of ■culture and influence. They are made up of offi- •^ \ 88 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. cers of the federal government, resident represcn^ tatives of telegraph and stage lines, members of eastern or California business firms having branches here, and a very fair proportion, too, of the mer- chants of the city. Some of the more intelligent of the disgusted and repentant Mormons swell th^ circle. They have organized a literary association, established a large and growing Sunday school, largely made up of children of Mormon parents, have weekly religious services led by the chaplain at Camp Douglas, conduct an able and prosperous daily paper (the Union Vedette,) and in every way are developing an organized and effective opposition to the dominant power here. These people, united, earnest and enthusiastic as minorities always are, claim a share in entertaining Mr. Colfax and his friends, and gave them a large and most brilliant social party last night. They are not reluctant to show us their ladies, as the Mormons generally seem to be, and their ladies are such, in beauty and cul- ture, as no circle need be ashamed of The enjoy- ment of this social entertainment of music, conver- sation, dancing and refreshments, was sadly and only broken by the announcement during the even- ing of the sudden death of the territorial governor, Judge Doty, formerly of Michigan and Wisconsin. Th anion all th( Thel rain, 1 ter of busim ficial busin( thousi built I versal from t the w; the ga numei spreac tween Indivi as a 1 water i 2NT. esidcnt represcn^ nes, members of 3 having branches too, of the mer- I more intelligent [ormons swell th^ erary association, f Sunday school, Mormon parents, I by the chaplain e and prosperous and in every way ifective opposition ;se people, united, irities always are, r. Colfax and his nd most brilliant ; not reluctant to ms generally seeux n beauty and cul- d of. The enjoy- of music, conver- s, was sadly and : during the even- rritorial governor, 1 and Wisconsin. LETTER IX. MORMON MATERIALITIES. A^ Salt Lake Crrv, June i6. The Necessity of all Agriculture, on the Plains, among the Mountains, on the Pacific shore, nearly all the western half of our Continent, is Irrigation, The long, dry summers, frequently months without rain, the hot sun and dry winds, the clayey charac- ter of the soil, all ensure utter defeat to the farmer's business, except he helps his crops to water by arfi- ficial means. But in Utah, agriculture is the chief business ; its population of one hundred and twenty thousand inhabitants, live by it, prosper by it, have built up a State upon it. Irrigation is, therefore, uni- versal and extensive ; the streams that pour down from the mountains are tapped at various ele'i'ations, the water carried away by canals, big and little, to the gardens and meadows cultivated, and thence, by numerous little courses, one in three or four ttet, spread over the whole extent, over the grain, be- tween the rows of corn, of trees, of vegetables. Individuals, villages, companies perform this work, as a less or greater scale of it is required. The water is apportioned among the takers according to \ ^ 90 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. theii land or their payments. Each one gets his share ; and when the supply is scant, as is often the case, each one suffers in like degree. Salt Lake City is thus irrigated, mainly from one mountain stream ; bright, sparkling brooks course freely and constantly down its paved gutters, keep- ing the shade trees alive and growing, supplying drink for animals and water for household purposes, and delightfully cooling the summer air; besides being drawn off in right proportion for the use of each garden. Once a week is the rule for thus watering each crop ; to-day a man takes enough for one portion of his garden ; to-morrow for another ; and so through his entire possessions and the week. Under this regular stimulus, with a strong soil made up of the wash of the mountains, the finest of crops are obtained ; the vegetable bottom lands of your own Connecticut and of the western prairies cannot vie with the products of the best gardens and farms of these Pacific valleys, under this system of irriga- tion. There needs to be rain enough in the spring or winter moisture remaining to start the seeds, and there generally is ; after that, the regular sup- ply of water keeps the plants in a steady and rapid growth, that may well be supposed to produce far finer results, than the struggling, uneven progress of vegetation under dependence upon the skies — a week or a month of rain, and then a like pro- longation of sunshine. The gardens m the cities and villages are tropical in their rich greenness and luxuriance. I do not believe the same space of ground anywhere else in the country holds so much And Lak T to tl very over once on a in tt tion, irrig mus for that no I and so p vide and half put ent fron for i and a pG irrig lies T aboi two five NENT. Each one gets his cant, as is often the jree. ;d, mainly from one :Ung brooks course >aved gutters, keep- growing, supplying lousehold purposes, immer air; besides rtion for the use of 5 the rule for thus an takes enough for lorrow for another ; sions and the week, h a strong soil made s, the finest of crops )ttom lands of your tern prairies cannot t gardens and farms his system of irriga- nough in the spring to start the seeds, lat, the regular sup- 1 a steady and rapid osed to produce far ig, uneven progress ;e upon the skies — nd then a like pro- ardens m the cities r rich greenness and the same space of untry holds so much THE IRRIGATION IN UTAH. 91 Rnd so fine fruit and vegetables as the city of Salt Lake to-day. The soil of these valleys is especially favorable to the small grains. Fifty and sixty bushels is a very common crop of wheat, oats and barley ; and over ninety have been raised. President Young once raised ninety-three and a half bushels of wheat on a single acre. I should say the same sod located in the East, and taking its chances without irriga- tion, would not produce half what it does here with irrigation. Laborious and expensive as the process must be, the large crops and high prices obtained for them make it to pay. Over all this country, that is forced to have an irrigated farming, there is no business that now pays so well, not even mining, and nowhere else in the whole Nation is agriculture so profitable. But the mountain snows do not pro- vide half the water the valleys need. Many a broad and beautiful valley goes unredeemed from a dry, half-barren vegetation, for the lack of water to be put upon it. Salt Lake City has exhausted its pres- ent supply, and now contemplates a grand canal from Utah Lake, thirty miles off, to provide water for its extending gardens and the wide valley below and beyond the city,— the most of which is now only a poor and growing poorer pasture, but which with irrigation will become as productive farming land as lies under the shadow of the Republic. The country drained by the Great Salt Lake is about one hundred and fifty miles east and west, and two hundred and fifty north and south. Four or five large streams of fresh water pour into it ; but it 1; i \ ^ 92 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. has not a single visible outlet, and its water is one- fourth solid salt — two mysteries that mock science and make imagination ridiculous. Other salt is found in the country ; there is a mountain of rock salt a few miles away; and below i» i.rizona is a similar mountain whose salt is as pin-e as finest glass. President Young showed us a brick of it to- day, thi ' excited our surprise and delight as much as any novelty we have seen on our journey. The Ter- ritory of Utah covers the region drained by the Salt Lake, and perhaps one hundred miles more both in breadth and length. But the Mormon settlements extend one hundred miles farther into Idaho on the north, and perhaps two hundred miles into Arizona on the south, clinging close, through their entire lengtbi of six hundred to seven hundred miles, to a narrow belt of country hardly more than fifty miles wide ; for on the east of this are the mountains, and to the west, the great Central American Desert, that forms part of the great internal basin of this section of the Continent, and leads the traveler on to the Sierra Nevada mountains of the Pacific States. Th^se settlements are mostly small, counting in- habitants by hundreds, gathered about the course of a mountain stream ; but there are several places of considerable importance, as Provo at the South and Ogden City at the North. Their extension south into the valley of the Colorado, paves the way to the successful working of a favorite commercial idea of the leading business men here, which is the use of the Gulf of California and tl^e Colorado River, Which empties into it, for the great avenue of trade ; for b and tural ing. stcar hund this 1 year, roadi over throi torru adva can stear chan way certa pci«l way Hon a ye£ time! tal ai Tl confi self-£ triou blet has 1 an ir the \ 1 ^ ENT. d its water is one- that mock science s. Other salt is mountain of rock »w i» i.rizona is a as pirre as finest us a brick of it to- delight as much as ourney. The Ter- Irained by the Salt niles more both in armon settlements into Idaho on the miles into Arizona "ough their entire lundred miles, to a )re than fifty miles the mountains, and erican Desert, that asin of this section traveler on to the Pacific States, small, counting in- about the course : are several places *rovo at the South Their extension ado, paves the way ivorite commercial here, which is the l^e Colorado River, it. avenue of trade ; THE COLORADO ROUTE FOR COMMERCE. 93 for bringing in the supplies of goods needed here, and for sending out such surplus products, agricul- tural and mineral, as these interior valleys arc offer ing. The Colorado is found to be navigable for steamboats for four hundred miles, or to within six hundred miles of this city, and the substitution of this reduced distance of land carriage, open all the year, through their own Territory, and up valley roads, for seven hundred miles to San Francisco or over one thousand miles to the Missouri River, through deserts and over mountains, and often in- terrupted by rivers, is a manifest improvement and advantage for the commerce of this country, that can hardly be overestimated. There are already steamers on the Colorado, and some of the mer- chants arc having goods come over the rowte by way of experiment. If it succeeds, as seems quite certain, then the heavy trade cf Utah and its de- peiMencies will come and go from New York by way of the Isthmus of Panama and around Cape Horn, and merchants here, instead cf having to buy a year's supply of goods at once, can market several times a year, and do business with much less capi- tal and at much greater advantage otherwise. The policy of the Mormon leaders has been to confine their people to agriculture; to develop a self-sustaining, rural population, quiet, frugal, indus- trious, scattered in small villages, and so managea- ble by the church organization. So far, this policy has been admirably successful ; and it has created an industry and a^production here, in the center of the western half of our Continent, of immense im- ll 94 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. portancc and value to the future growth of the re- gion. A few of the simpler manufactures have been introduced of late, but these arc not in conflict with the general policy. There are three cotton mills, confined to cotton yarns, however, almost ex- clusively, and one woolen mill. Probably there are a hundred flouring mills in the Territory also. Flour, the grains, butter, bacon, dried peaches, home- made socks and yarn, these arc the chief articles produced in excess and sold to emigrants and for the mining regions in the North. Probably two hundred thousand pounds of dried peaches were sold for Idaho and Montana last year. Hides are plenty ; there is a good tannery here ; and also a manufactory of boots and shoes. Cotton grows abundantly in the southern settlements; and ex- periments with flax, the mulberry tree and the silk worm are all successful. As to mining, the influence of the church^as been against it. There have been no placer or sur- face diggings discovered to offer temotations to the mass of the people ; and the leadc i affect to be- lieve that the ores so far found at.* not valuable enough to pay for working. They have a reason for discouraging mining, of course, in the sure con- viction that it would introduce a population and influences antagonistic to the order and power of the church. Iron, they admit, exists in large quan- tities, especially in the southern mountains, and they have made some attempts to develop it, but without great success, for the reason, as they say that they had rot the proper workmen and materia ly to d inert argu than try i; silvc dolla Bi cscei moui pcrhi rics, ists t rival 1 cove: with have cursi vall<? madt been mane fornii this those to in the v a hui work feet, cral ( the c NENT. I prowth of the rc' manufactures have e arc not in conflict c are three cotton lowevcr, ahnost ex- I. Probably there the Territory also, rietl peaches, home- i the chief articles emigrants and for th. Probably two Iricd peaches were t year. Hides are y here ; and also a es. Cotton grows :tlements ; and ex- ry tree and the silk of the church%as en no placer or sur- temotations to the ;adL i affect to be- d ar.' not valuable 'hey have a reason •se, in the sure con- ; a population and jrder and power of xists in large quan- :rn mountains, and s to develop it, but rcmson, as they say -kmen and materia ly THE MINES or MORMONDOM. 9$ to do it with. Hut as to gold and silver, they are incredulous ; and not only that, but President Young argues that the world has many times more of both than it needs for financial purpo.ses ; that the coun- try is poorer to-day for all the mining of gold and silver in the last twenty years ; and that for every dollar gained by it, four dollars have been expended. But these views are not likely to gain wide acqui- escence. There is no reason to doubt that the mountains of Utah are rich in the precious metals — perhaps not so much so as other Stafes and Territo- ries, but still enough so to tempt miners and capital- ists to invest in the business of developing them in rivalry with Nev?da and Colorado. So far, the dis- coveries have been chiefly of silver, in connection with large deposits of lead and copper. Our party have spent two interesting days this week in an ex- cursion about forty miles into an adjoining beautiful valld^, where some valuable developments have been made in this line. Most of the discoveries have been made by soldiers in General Connor's com- mand — volunteers from the mining regions of Cali- fornia and Nevada — who have been stationed in this vicinity for the last two years; and most of those whose terms have expired have gone to work to improve and develop them. We found among the various canyons or ravines of the Rush Valley a hundred or two of mines freshly discovered and worked out to various depths of ten to one hundred feet. Colonel George, who, in the absence of Gen- eral Connor to fight the Indians, is in command of the camp here, accompanied us, and saw the lodes g6 ' ACROSS THE CONTINENT." fur the first time. He Is an old Nevada minor, and he .siiys these promise much better — lilly per cent, better — than the famous silver mines of that young State. There, fifty to one hundred dollars of silver from a ton of ore is considered highly profitable and satisfactory ; here, the surface ore assays from one hundred to five hundred dollars a ton, and in sev- eral cases lodes have been opened that assay from one thousand to four thousand dollars to the ton. The last figure is obtained from one just opened and named the New York lead. The farther the mines arc worked, the richer grows the ore. Th^ Mormons say they will soon work out ; but the miners have faith, and arc working away with all the capital and labor they can command. At pres- ent, the ore is easily worked, and does not demand expensive machinery like stamp mills and steam or water power. Smelting furnaces are the chief ne- cessity to reduce the ore to its elements, and sepa- rate the metal from the dross. As the mines are further worked, the ore will probably grow harder, and require more elaborate processes. General Connor, who is an old Californian, has large faith in these prospectings, has taken much interest in their development, and has located and is building up a town, called Stockton, near them, in the Rush Valley. Here wc found a population of perhaps two hundred, all "Gentiles," many of them old soldiers, and all full of faith and zeal in their new enterprise. Major Gallagher, formerly of General Connor's California regiment, is living here as the general's agent, and as farmer and miner on INliNT. Nevada minor, and ;ttcr — fifty pur cent, mines of lluit young !red dollars of silver liiglily profitable and jre assays from one •s a ton, and in sev- ned that assay from 1 dollars to the ton. )m one just opened d. The farther the ;rows the ore. Th^ work out ; but the rking away with all ;ommand. At pres- nd does not demand 5 mills and steam or :cs are the chief ne- clemcnts, and sepa- . As the mines are obably grow harder, cesses. old Californian, has gs, has taken much and has located and itockton, near them, J found a population 'Gentiles," many of of faith and zeal in allagher, formerly of jimcnt, is living here armcr and miner on THE TKOMISF, OF UTAIT. 97 his own responsibility. We spent the night at the "govcrnmeiit reserves," two miles beyond Stockton, by the shore of Rush Lake ; these reserves being valuable lands .selected some years ago by Colonel Steptoe, as likely to be needed for government uses, and now thus appropriated for supjilies of wood for the camp in town and to pasture surplus horsies. Here we met a rough but generous hospitality, a midnight supper, a roaring open fire, and beds on the floor and in the stable-yards ; but we slept soundly, ale heartily, and gathered sweetest of flowers amid a snow-storm on the hill-sides the next day, as we wandered about in search of the silver lode.s. In the more remote parts of the Territory, other silver mines have been discovered, and are being worked with succe.s.s. Their distance from markets, the necessity of more or less machinery for their profitable operation, and the lack of capital among those who have discovered the lodes, are obstacles to their rapid development; but judging from all I can see and learn, there is no good reason to doubt their great value, and sufficient cause to regard them as offering one of the best fields for wisely investing capital and labor in all the mining regions, and to predict ere long such an interest and excite- ment in regard to them, as will give Utah a 'new population and rapid growth, and place her among the first of the mining States. The antecedent, achieved development of her agricultural capacities, her settled population and her gath'-red and organ- ized civilization will then prove of a great advan- tage, and be properly appreciated. 5 7 LETTER X. SALT LAKE CITY AND LIFE THERE. Salt Lake City, Saturday, June 17. In the "great and glorious future" of our Fourth of July orations, when polygamy is extinct, the Pa- cific Railroad built, and the mines developed. Salt Lake City will be not only the chief commercial city of the mountains, the equal of St. Louis and Chicago, but one of the most beautiful residence cities and most attractive watering-places on the Continent. Its admirable location and early de- velopment secure the one ; its agreeable climate for eight months in the year, at least, and the surpass- ing beauty of its location, with its ample supply of water, its fruits and vegetables, will add the second ; and joining to all these circumstances, its snow- capped mountains, its hot sulphur springs, and its Great Salt Lake, and we have the elements of the third fact. There are two principal sulphur springs, one hot enough (one hundred and twenty degrees) to boil an egg, which is four miles from the center of the city, and the other just the right temperature for a hot bath, (ninety degrees,) which is close to the city, and is already brought into a large enclw u a is c d b s] tl it ci bi so sa flc th th ro su wl an th< yoi ha: ye em the tail 1 acr qus ■"W^^ LIFE TIIERK. "ITY, Saturday, June 17. uture"of our Fourth ny is extinct, the Pa- lines developed, Salt :he chief commercial ual of St. Louis and t beautiful residence itering-places on the cation and early de- agreeable climate for east, and the surpass- h its ample supply of i, will add the second ; umstances, its snow- Iphur springs, and its e the elements of the icipal sulphur springs, I and twenty degrees) miles from the center ; the right temperature les,) which is close to ht into a large enclw SALT LAKE CUY ^S A ft AfERING-PLACE. 99 ure for free bathing purposes. Both these streams are large enough for illimitable bathing; the water is as highly sulphurized and as clear as that of the celebrated Sharon Springs; and its use, either for drmking or for baths, most effective in purifying the blood aad toning up the.system. Other and smaller springs of the same character have been foi-nd in the neighborhood. Then the Lake opens another field of attra. ons ; It is a miniature ocean, about fifteen miles from the city, fifty miles wide by one hundred long,— the bnniest sheet of water known on the Continent,— so salt that no fish can live in it, and that three quarts of it will boU down to one quart of fine, pure salt,— but most delicious and refreshing for bathing, floating tKe body as a cork on the surface,— only the brine must be kept from mouth and eyes under the penalty of a severe smarting ;— with its high rocky islands and crestfuU waves and its sup -b sunsets, picturesque and enchanting to look upon; while Its broad expanse offers wide spree for sailing, and every chance for sea-sickness. Count up all these features for a watering-place; and where will you find a Newport, a Saratoga or a Sharon that has the half of them.? So, ye votaries of fashion, ye rheumatic cripples, ye victims tf scrofula and ennui, prepare to pack your trunks at the sound of the first whistle of the tr Jn for the Rocky Moun- tams, for a season at Salt Lake City. The city is regularly laid out into squares of ten acres each, and these into lots of one acre and a quarter, only ferther subdivided in the business or I -«3!5f,i^; 100 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. more thickly populated streets. The building ma- terial is mostly sun-dried bricks, (called adobe,) covered with plaster, and the houses are generally of one story, covering much space and with as many front doors as the owner has wives. A few of the newer stores are built of stone, and are ele- gant and capacious within and without Brigham Young's establishment occupies a full square, and ■ibraces several dwellings, a school house for his forty or fifty children, extensive stables, a grist mill, a carpenter's shop, and the "tithing" office. An opposite square is devoted to church purposes ; and here is the old Tabernacle, a new and larger one partly done, and the foundations of the great Tem- ple, which, if ever completed, according to the de- sign, will be the finest church edifice irt America Nothing is doing upon it now. Within the samf enclosure is the " Bowery," an immense thatch of green boughs, covering space for an audience ol several thousands. Here the general Sunday ser- vices are held during the warm weather. Both these squares, President Young's and the church grounds, are enclosed by solid walls of mud and stones, twelve feet high, and walls of a like charac- ter are even used for fences about many of the resi- dences. *•* There are very large mercantile interests here. Several firms do a business of a million doiiars or more each, a year, and keep on hand stocks of goods of the value of a quarter of a million. They fre- quently have subsidiary stores in other parts of the Territory to the number of four or six. Their fn ar re th J« las le? sa; go wa do of av( It en cir wh the agj the ma sea car giv Clc! twe five bar lunc fiff3 cofi tea [ENT. The building ma- :s, (called adobe,) uses are generally )ace and with as las wives. A few stone, and are ele- vithout Brigham a full square, and hool house for his tables, a grist mill, hing" office. An rch purposes ; and ;w and larger one of the great Tem- cording to the de- :difice iiJ America Within the sam< mmense thatch of or an audience of eneral Sunday ser- in weather. Both :'s and the church walls of mud and Is of a like charac- it many of the resi- tile interests here. I million doiiars or md stocks of goods million. They fre- 1 other parts of the jur or six. Their BUSINESS AND PRICES IN UTAH. lOI freights are enormous, and sometimes their goods are a year on the way hither. One firm has just received a stock of goods, costing one hundred thousand dollars, that was bought in New York last June. It got caught on the Plains by early snow, last fall, and had to winter on the way. Another leading merchant paid one hundred and fifty thou- sand dollars for freights last year. One lot cf goods, groceries, hardware, dry goods, everything, was found to have cost, on reaching here, just one dollar a pound, adding to original purchase the cost of freighting, which from New York to this point averages from twenty-five to thirty cents a pound. It of course requires large capital and courage to enter upon the mercantile business here under such circumsta*ftces. Prices, too, must rule high; and when the supply is short, as it was last year, and the demand large, great profits are realized; and again, with an overstocked market and a small sale, there is danger of heavy losses. One concern made seventy-five per cent, profit last year, but this season promises poorly; and the stocks on hand cannot, in many cases, be sold for their cost. I give the ruling rates for some of the leading arti- cles, both of native production and imported : beef twelve to twenty cents, mutton twenty to twenty- five cents, pork fifty cents, bacon seventy-five cents, hams one dollar, wood eighteen dollars per cord, lumber one hundred dollars per thousand, butter fiffy cents, sugar seventy-five to eighty-five cents, coffee one dollar to one dollar and ten cents, green tea (almost universal on the Plains and in the moun- 102 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. I tains) three and a half to five dollars, tobacco two to two dollars and a half, axes four dollars and a half, heavy brown sheetings eighty-five to ninety cents, fine seventy-five to ninety cents, prints twenty-five to forty cents, dried apples sixty cents, dried peaches fifty cents, molasses three to three dollars and a half, gunpowder two dollars, day labor three dol- lars, mechanics three to five dollars, clerks twelve hundred to three thousand dollars a year. The only coal mines yet developed in the Territory lie forty miles over the mountains east, on our road hither, and it costs twenty-five to thirty dollars a ton to transport it to the city, so that the price for it is thirty-five to forty dollars. It is a bituminous coal, and of very fair quality. Your readers would mistake if they supposed that these prices enforced any poverty in living among these people. There are not many abso- lutely poor; and the general scale of living is gen- erous. In the early years of the Territory, there was terrible suflTering for the want of food ; many were reduced to the roots of the field for sustenance ; but now there appears to be an abundance of the substantial necessaries of life, and as most of the population are cultivators of the soil, all or nearly all have plenty of food. And certainly, I have never seen more generously laden tables than have been spread before us at our hotel or at private houses. A dinner to our party this evening by a leading Mormon merchant, at which President Young and the principal members of his council were present, had as rich a variety of fish, meats, vegetables, pa in thi wa on in be to otl of off Tl i' Its en m( sai rai an mi a it; th( by tei cla an in cir rai an SENT. BRIGHAM YOUNGS THEATER. 103 ollars, tobacco two r dollars and a half, \re to ninety cents, prints twenty-five :ents, dried peaches hree dollars and a ly labor three dol- llars, clerks twelve liars a year. The n the Territory lie east, on our road to thirty dollars a that the price for It is a bituminous 5 if they supposed r poverty in living re not many abso- ile of living is gen- he Territory, there ^ant of food ; many field for sustenance ; [1 abundance of the md as most of the soil, all or nearly all tainly, I have never lies than have been r at private houses, ening by a leading esident Young and )uncil were present, meats, vegetables. pastry and fruit, as I ever saw on any private table in the East ; and the quality and the cooking and the serving were unimpeachable. All the food, too, was native in Utah. The wives of our host waited on us most amicably, and the entertainment was, in every way, the best illustration of the practical benefits of plurality, that has yet been presented to us. Later in the evening we were introduced to an- other, and perhaps the most wonderful, illustration of the reach of social and artificial life in this far off city of the Rocky Mountains. This was the Theater, in which a special performance was irapro- i'(;d in honor of Speaker Colfax. The building is Itself a rare triumph of art and enterprise. No east- ern city of one hundred thousand inhabitants, — re- member Salt Lake City has less than twenty thou- sand, — possesses so fine a theatrical structure. It rankd, alike in capacity and elegance of structure and finish, along with the opera-houses and acade- mies of music of Boston, New York, Philadelphia, Chicago and Cincinnati. In costumes and scenery, it is furnished with equal richness and variety, and the performances themselves, though by amateurs, by merchants and mechanics, by wives and daugh- ters of citizens, would have done full credit to a first- class professional company. There was first a fine and elaborate drama, and then a spectacular farce, in both which were introduced some exquisite dan- cing, c. id in one some good singing also. I have rarely seen a theatrical entertainment more pleasing and satisfactory in all its details and appointments. 104 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. Yet the two pnncipal male characters weie by a day-laborer and a carpenter; one of the leading lady parts was by a married daughter of Brigham Young, herself the mother of several children ; and several other of his daughters took part in the bal- let, which was most enchantingly rendered, and with great scenic effect. The house was full in all its parts, and the audience embraced all classes of so- ciety, from the wives and daughters of President Young,— a goodly array,— and the families of the rich merchants, to the families of the mechanics and farmers of the city and valley, and the soldiers from the camp. President Young built and owns the theater, and conducts it on his private account, or on that of the church, as he does many other of the valuable and profitable institutions of the Ter- ritory, such as cotton, saw and flour mills, the best farms, etc. ; and, as he is at no expense for actors or actresses, and gets good prices for admi sion, he undoubtedly makes a "good thing" out of it. Dur- ing the winter season, performances are given twice a week ; and the theater proves a most useful and popular social center and entertainment for the whole people; Its creation was a wise and benefi- cent thought. ( bee us. ing insi ity, dev con Mo mui hav talil not part poli ins't pub the cess him doci INENT, laracters weie by a one of the leading lughter of Brigham veral children ; and ook part in the bal- f rendered, and with ; was full in all its 2d all classes of so- jhters of President the families of the of the mechanics ey, and the soldiers ing built and owns his private account, Joes many other of tutions of the Ter- lour mills, the best expense for actors !s for admi sion, he g" out of it. Dur- ces are given twice a most useful and Ttainment for the a wise and benefi- LETTER XI. THE POLYGAMY QUESTION. Salt Lake City, June li Our, visit here closes in the morning. It ha.s been very interesting, instructive and gratifying to us. We have had unusual opportunities for learn- ing the opinions of the Mormons, for studying their institutions, for measuring their culture and capac- ity, for observing their social, material and religious development, and for informing ourselves as to the conflict fast growing up between them_and the non- Mormons who are rapidly accumulating in the com- munity. The leaders in the church and in society have been generous and constant in their hospi- tality, and frank in their conversation, partly, I will not doubt, from a hearty, human good feeling, and partly, no doubt, also, from anxiety as to the future policy of the government towards them and their ins'titutions, and eagerness to propitiate political and public opinion in their favor. We have attended the services at the Mormon Tabernacle on two suc- cessive Sabbaths, on one of which Brigham Young himself preached in exposition and defense of the doctrines of his church. Mr. Colfax and his friends 5* io6 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. have also had two long interviews with Brigham Young and the other leaders of the church, in one of which the peculiar institution of the people was freely and frankly but most earnestly discussed by all. The testimony and opinions of the "Gentiles," and of intelligent citizens, men and women, who, once Mormons, have now left the church, have been freely offered to us, and gladly heard. Valuable facts and opinions have also been gathered from old and intelligent citizens, who have held a sort of in- dependent and neutral position, who are neither polygamists in theory or practice, nor megibers of the church, but who, either from motives of policy or qualities of temperament, have taken no part with the pronounced and denouncing "Gentiles." Nor have the opinions and feelings of women in polygamy been wholly denied to us; though we have not been offered their society by their hus- bands with any particular generosity ; — this, indeed, being the only feature of their hospitality that has been measured and chary. The result of the whole experience has been to increase my appreciation of the value of their ma- terial progress and development to the nation ; to evoke congratulations to them and to the country for the wealth they have created and the order, fru- gality, morality and industry that have been organ- ized in this remote spot in our Continent ; to excite wonder at the perfection and power of their church system, the extent of its ramifications, the sweep of its influence ; and to enlarge my respect for the personal sincerity and character of many of the lea hai str grt tis( pel as onl it,! COT inf pic ] pol ma Mc pel Na ish of ter of bee nol err pec ties by lie, hoi wit but "-^*rWf?' NENT. cws with Brigham the church, in one I of the people was lestly discussed by 3 of the "Gentiles," 1 and women, who, : church, have been r heard. Valuable 1 gathered from old e held a sort of in- j, who are neither ce, nor megibers of 1 motives of policy ave taken no part uncing "Gentiles." :lings of women in to us; though we ciety by their hus- jsity ; — this, indeed, hospitality that has srience has been to : value of their ma- lt to the nation ; to and to the country I and the order, fru- it have been organ- continent; to excite wer of their church Scations, the sweep ! my respect for the er of many of the MORMONISM NOT POLYGAMY. 107 leaders in the organization ; — also, and on the other hand, to deepen my disgust at their polygamy, and strengthen my convictions of .its barbaric and de- grading influences. They have tried it and prac- tised it under the most favorable circumstances, perhaps under the mildest form possible ; but, now as before, here as cLsewhere, It lends to and means only the degradation of woman. By it and under it, she becomes simply the servant and serf, not the companion and equal of man ; and the inevitable influence of this upon all society need not be de- picted. But I find that Mormonism is not necessarily polygamy; that the one began and existed for many years without the other; that not all the Mormons accept the doctrine, and not one-fourth, perhaps not one-eighth practise it; and that the Natioa and its government may oppose it and pun- ish it, without at all interfering with the existence of the Mormon church, or justly being held as in- terfering with the religious liberty that is the basis of all our institutions. This distinction has not been sufficiently understood heretofore, and it has not been consistently acted upon by either the gov- ernment or the public of the East. Here, by the people, who are coming in to enjoy the opportuni- ties of the country for trade and mining, and there, by our rulers at Washington and by the great pub- lic, this single issue of polygamy should be pressed home upon the Mormon church, — discreetly apd with tact, with law and with argument and appeal, but with firmness and power. I io8 ACROSS lUli CONTINENT. Ultimately, of course, before the influences of emigration, civilization and our democratic habits, an organization so aristocratic and autocratic as the Mormon church now is must modify its rule; it must compete with' other sects, and take its chance with them. And its most aristocratic and uncivil- ized incident or feature of plurality of wives must fall first and completely before contact with the rest of the world, — marshalled with mails, daily papers, railroads and telegraphs, — ciphering out the fact that ine men and women of the world are about equally divided, and applying to the Mormon patri- archs the democratic principle cf equal and exact justice. Nothing can save this feadire of Mor- monism but new flight and a more complete isola- tion. A kingdom in the sea, entirely its own, could only perpetuate it ; and thither even, commerce and democracy would ultimately follow it. fhe click of the telegraph and the roll of the overland stages are its death-rattle now ; the first whistle of the locomotive will sound its requiem ; and the pick- ax of the miner will dig its grave. Squatter, sov- ereignty will speedily settle the question, even if the government continues to coquette with it and humor it, as it has done. But the government should no longer hold a doubtful or divided position toward this great crime of the Mormon church. Declaring clearly both its want of power and disinclination to interfere at all with the church organization as iuch, or with the lat- ter's influence over its followers, assuring and guar- anteeing to it all the liberty and freedom that other rch] sho its : feat pari the uto tens Nov Tcr time who neit ofi: gOV( prac h caln port necc mon prea here and whe agai term need up; the] the prec JEN'T. the influences of democratic habits, d autocratic as the nodify its rule; it lid take its chance cratic and uncivil- lity of wives must contact with the with mails, daily -ciphering out the he world are about the Mormon patri- ■f equal and exact s feature of Mor- )re complete isola- irely its own, could ^en, commerce and w it. The click of le overland stages rst whistle of the !m ; and the pick- /c. Squatter, sov- question, even if quette with it and no longer hold a rd this great crime ng clearly both its to interfere at all ch, or with the lat- issuring and guar- reedom that other DUTV ur THK GOVERNMENT. 109 religious sects hold and enjoy, the government should still, as clearly and distinctly, declare, by all its action and all its representatives here, that this feature of polygamy, not properly or necessarily a part of the religion of the Mormons, is a crime by the common law of all civilization and by the stat' utf' l.)w f)f tl>e Nation, and that any cases of its ex- tension will be prosecuted and punished as such. Now half or two-thirds the federal officers in the Territory are polyganiists; and others bear no tes- timony against it. These should give way to men who, otherwise equally Mormons it may be, still are neither polygamists nor believers m the practice of pcjlygamy. No employes or contractors of the government should be [...ilygamists in theory or practice. Herq the government should take its stand, calmly, quietly, but firmly, giving its moral sup- port and countenance, ami its physical support, it necessary for fair play, to the large class of Mor- mons who are not polygamists, to missionaries and preachers of all other sects, who choose to come here, and erect their standards and invite followers ; and to that growing public opinion, here and else- where, which is accumulating its inexorable force against an institution which has not inaptly been termed a twin barbarism with slavery. There is no need and no danger of physical conflict growing up ; only a hot and unwise zeal and impatience on the part of the government representatives, and tn the command ol the troops stationed here, could precipitate that. The probability is, that, upon such ' mmm. no :^Atf.liiilllill ACUOSS THE CONTINENT. a demonstration by the government, as T have sn;!, gcsted, the leaders of the church would receive new light on the subject themselves, — perhaps have a fresh revelation, and abandon the objectionable fea- ture in their polity. No matter if they did not, — it would soon, under the influences now rapidly ag- gregating, and thus reinforced by the government, abandon them. In this way, all violent conflict would, I believe, be successfully avoided ; and all this valuable popu- lation and its industries and wealth may be retained in place and to the Nation, without waste. Let them continue to be Mormons, if they choose, so long as they are not polygamists. They may be ignorant and fanatical, and imposed upon and swin- dled even, by their church leaders; but they are industrious, thriving, and more comfortable than, on an average, they have ever been before in the homes from which they came hither; and there is no law against fanaticism and bigotry and religious charlatanry. All these evils of religious benight- ment are not original in Utah, and they will work out their own cure here, as they have done else- where in our land. We must have patience with the present, and possibly forgiveness for supposed crimes in the past by the leaders, because we have heretofore failed to meet the issues promptly and clearly, and have shared by our consent and protec- tion to their authors in the alleged wrongs. The conversation I have alluded to with Brigham Young and some of his elders, on this subject of polygamy, was introduced by his inquiring of Mr. NENT. DISCUSSION WITH DRIOHAM YOUNO. Ill lent, as T have siift would receive new i, — perhaps have a c objectionable fea- r if they did not,— CCS now rapidly apf- )y the government, ct would, I believe, this valuable popu- 1th may be retained ithout waste. Let , if they choose, so sts. They may be )sed upon and swin- ders; but they are I comfortable than, been before in the lither; and there is igotry and religious r religious benight- and they will work ey have done else- have patience with reness for supposed rs, because we have ssues promptly and consent and protec- 2;ed wrongs, led to with Brigham , on this subject of lis inquiring of Mr. Colfax what the government and people of the East projjosed to do with it and them, now that they had got rid of the slavery question. The i^peaker replied that he had no authority to speak for the govern- ment; but for himself, if he might be permitted to make the suggestion, he had hoped the prophets of the church would have a new revelation on the subject, which shouhl put a stop to the practice. He added further that, as the people of Missouri and Maryland, without waiting for the action of the general government against slavery, themselves be- lieving it to be wrong and an impediment to their prosperity, had taken measures to abolish it, so he hoped the people of the Mormon church would see that polygamy was a hindrance and not a help, and move for its abandonment. Mr. Young responded quickly and frankly that he should readily welcome such a revelation ; that polygamy was not in the original book of the Mormons; that it was not an essential practice in the church, but only a privilege and a duty, under special command of God ; that he knew it had been abused ; that people had entered into polygamy who ought not to have done so, and against his protestation and advice. At the same time, he defended the practice as having biblical au- thority, and as having, within proper limits, a sound, moral and philosophical reason and propriety. The discussion, thus opened, grew general and sharp, though ever good-natured. Mr. Yoirng was asked how he got over the fact that the two sexes were about equally divided all over the world, and that, if some men had two, five, or twenty wives, .L_ 112 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. Others would have to go without altogether. His reply was that there was always a considerable pro- portion of the men who would never marry, who were old bachelors from choice. But, retorted one, are there any more of such than of women who choose to be old maids.' Oh yes, said he, most ungallantly ; there is not one woman in a million who will not marry if she gets a chance ! One of the saints, who was pressing the biblical usage and authority for many wives as above all laws and con- stitutions, was asked as to the effect of the same usage and authority for human sacrifice, — would you, he was asked, if commanded by Go', offer up your son or your enemy as a sacrifice, kiliii.^' them ? Yej, he promptly replied. Then the civil law would lay its hands upon you and stop you, and would be justified in doing so, was the apparently effective answer. In the course of the discussion, Mr. Young asked, suppose polygamy is given up, will not your govern- nrent then demand more, — ^will it not war upon the Book of the Mormons, and attack our church organ- ization? The reply was emphatically No, that it had no right, and could have no justification to do so, and that we had no idea there would be any dis- position in that direction. The talk, which was said to be the freest and frankest ever known on that subject in that pres- ence, ended pleasantly, but with the full expression, on the part of Mr. Colfax and his friends, of their hope that the polygamy question might be removed from existence, and thus all objection to the admis- S101 unt tha diff pra his ifp ous que esc( prei 1 off abs lish tell ing agg let i the that out whe hav( pee] He worl alm( quit I CO mas Ave L.-_ [NENT. ut altogether. His a considerable pro- . never marry, who But, retorted one, an of women who yes, said he, most woman in a million a chance ! One of ; biblical usage and I'e all laws and con- effect of the same n sacrifice, — would ;d by Gc', offer up rifice, kihii.^ them ? I the civil law would you, and would be ipparently effective 1, Mr. Young asked, ill not your govern- it not war upon the c our church organ- itically No, that it ) justification to do e would be any dis- be the freest and ibject in that pres- the full expression, tiis friends, of their might be removed ction to the admis- BRIGHAM YOUNG ON THE REBELS. 113 sion of Utah as a State be taken away ; but that, until it was, no such admission was possible, and that the government could not continue to look in- differently upon the enlargement of so offensive a practice. And not only what Mr. Young said, but his whole manner left with us the impression that, if public opinion and the government united vigor- ously, but at the same time discreetly, to press the question, there would be found some way to acqui- esce in the demand, and change the practice of the present fathers of the church. The conversation was continued on the subjects of punishing the leading rebels, and of slavery in the abstract. Mr. Young favored slavery /^r se a.« estab- • lished by Divine authority, but denounced the chat- tel system of the South ; and he opposed the hang- ing of any of the rebel chiefs as an unwise and aggravating policy. Now that peace is established, let all be pardoned, he said ; but early in or during the war, he would have disposed of the rebel chiefs that fell into the hands of the government with- out mercy or hesitation. Had he been President when Mason and Slidell were captured, he would have speedily put them "where they never would peep," and negotiated with England afterwards. He uttered this sentiment with such a wicked worki'.ig of the lower jaw and lip, and such an almost demon-like spirit in his whole face, that, quite disposed to be incredulous on those matters, I could not help thinking of the Mountain Meadow massacre of recusant Mormons, of Danites and Avenging Angels, and their reported achievements. • 8 \ ._J i LETTER XII. THE MORMON WIVES: OUR I-AST DAY IN SALT LAKE CITY. Salt Lake City, June 18. How do the Mormon women like and bear po- lygamy ? is the question most people ask as to the institution. The universal testimony of all but their husbands is, that it is a grievous sorrow and burden ; only cheerfully submitted to and embraced under a religious fanaticism and self-abnegation rare to behold, and possible only to women. They are taught to believe, and many of them really do believe, that through and by it they secure a higher and more glorious reward in the future world. " Lord Jesus has laid a heavy trial upon me," said one poor, sweet woman, " but I mean to bear it for His sake, and for the glory He will grant me in His kingdom." This is the common wail, the common solace. Such are the teachings of the church ; and I have no doubt both husbands and wives alike often honestly accept this view of the odious prac- tice, and seek and submit to polygamy as really God's holy service, calculated to make saints of themselves and all asso<iiated with them in the fu- ture Vvorld. amo theii mon not mos mon wive harr wou' hous isg( quer then drea and swe( degi to d wo*^ infid the clair T deb: edu( to t vidii locu schc the in b 'S^S^^' POLYGAMY AND WOMAN. «*5 MI. AST DAY IN SALT r Lake City, June 18. n like and bear po- )eople ask as to the istimony of all but grievous sorrow and ted to and embraced and self-abnegation ly to women. They ly of them really do they secure a higher I the future world, trial upon me," said '. mean to bear it for will grant me in His )n wail, the common i of the church ; and ids and wives alike r of the odious prac- polygamy as really to make saints of with them in the fu- Still a good deal of human nature is visible, both among the men in embracing polygamy, and irf their wives in submitting to it. Mr. Young's testi- mony on this point is significant. Other signs are not wanting in the looks and character of the men most often anointed in the holy bonds of matri- mony, and in the well-known disagreement of the wives in many families. In some cases they live harmoniously and lovingly together; oftener, it would seem, they have separate parts of the same house, or even separate houses. The first wife is generally the recognized one of society, and fre- quently assumes contempt for the others, regarding them as concubines, and not wives. But it is a dreadful state of society to any one of fine feelings and true instincts; it robs married life of all its sweet sentiment and companionship; and while it degrades woman, it brutalizes man, teaching him to despise and domineer over his wives, over all wo^nen. It breeds jealousy, distrust, and tempts to infidelity ; but the police system of the church and the community is so strict and constant that it is claimed and believed the latter vice is veiy rare. The effect upon the children cannot help being debasing, however well they may be guarded and educated. Bat it is a chief failing, even a scandal to the Mormons, that, plentifully as they are pro- viding children, wHo swarm everywhere as did the locusts in Egypt, they have organized no free school system. Schools are held in every ward of the city, and probably in every considerable village, in buildings provided for evening religious meet- I ■ ili .,.J Ii6 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. iiigs under the direction of the local bishops, but a tuition fee is exacted for all who attend, and the poor are practically shut out. The anti-polygamists should agitate at once and earnestly to reform this evil, — it is a strong point against the dominant party, and a weak point in the welfare of the Terri- tory. It is a good and encouraging sign to learn from intelligent sources that, as the young girls, daughters of Mormons, grow up to womanhood, they are indisposed to polygamy, „nd seek husbands among the " Gentiles" rather than among their own faith. The soldiers at Camp Douglas, near this city, , f^ illustrating one of the ways in which polygamy will fade away before the popular principle. Two com- panies, who went home to California last fall, took about twenty-five wives with them, recruited from the Mormon flocks. There are now some fifty or more women in the camp, who have fled thither from town for protection, or been seduced away from unhappy homes and fractional husbands ; and all or nearly all find new husbands among the sol- diers. Only to-day a man with three daughters, living in the city, applied to Colonel George for leave to move up to the camp for a residence, in order, as he said, to save his children from polyg- amy, into which the bishops and elders of the church were urging them. The camp authorities tell many like stories ; also of sadder applications, if possible, for relief from actual poverty and from persecution in town. The Mormons have no poor- house, and say they have no poor, permitting none by n wint thirt teal I dem< ities Y( prop Utal out < are ] ain. land( Youi repr( all ai ing] the acut< Tabt ater look] fine-1 head mass poor of 01 Tl ing cami singi part * ;«ff 9S©* riNENT. 5 local bishops, but a who attend, and the rhe anti-polygamists nestly to reform this gainst the dominant welfare of the Terri- raging sign to learn as the young girls, up to womanhood, y, «nd seek husbands lan among their own as, near this city, ■^. which polygamy will rinciple. Two com- ifornia last fall, took :hem, recruited from re now some fifty or lo have fled thither been seduced away ional husbands ; and ands among the sol- ith three daughters, Colonel George for ) for a residence, in ;hildren from polyg- and elders of the he camp authorities sadder applications, al povei-ty and from rmons have no poor- )or, permitting none SERVICES AT THE TABERNACLE. 117 by relieving all through work or gifts. But the last winter was so long and so severe, with wood at thirty and forty dollars a cord, that there was much real suffering, and the soldiers yielded to extensive demands upon their charity, that the church author- ities had neglected to fulfill, or absolutely denied. Your readers are aware, I suppose, that a large proportion, perhaps the majority, of the people of Utah are foreigners, — recruits by missionaries sent out over the whole world. The larger proportion are English, from the factory towns of Great Brit- ain. But Germans, Swedes, Finns, Scotch, Ice- landers, and even East Indians, are here. Mr. Young boasts that fifty different nationalities are represented among his people. The bulk of them all are of the peasantry, the lower classes of work- ing people at home ; and so the congregations of the Mormons do not exhibit the marks of high acuteness and intelligence. The audiences at the Tabernacle to-day and last Sunday, and at the the- ater last night, were what would be called common- looking people. The handsome girls were few ; the fine-looking women even fewer ; intelligent, strong- headed men were more numerous; but the great mass, both in size, looks and dress, was below the poorest, hardest-working and most ignorant classes of ou/ eastern large towns. The gatherings and the services, both in speak- ing and singing, reminded me of the Methodist camp-meetings of fifteen or twenty years ago. The singing, as on the latter occasions, was the best part of the exercises, simple, sweet, and fervent. Ii8 ACROSS THE CONTINENT " Daughters of Zion," as sung by the large choir last Sunday, was prayer, sermon, song and all. The preaching last Sabbath was by Mr. Samuel W. Richards, who was of Massachusetts origin, but a Mormon leader and missionary for many years. Heyond setting forth the superiority of the Mor- mon church system, through its presidents, coun- cils, bishops, elders and seventies, for the work made incumbent upon Christians, and claiming that its preachers were inspired like those of old, his discourse was a rambling, unimpressive exhorta- tion, such as you may hear from a tonguey deacon in any country Baptist or Methodist meeting-house. The Bible, both old and new testament, is used with the same authority as by all Protestants ; the Mormon scriptures are simply new and added books, confirming and supplementing the teach- ings of the original Scriptures. The rite of the sacrament is administered every Sunday, water being used instead of wine, and the distribution proceeding among the whole congregation, men, women and children, and numbering from three to five thousand, while the singing and the preaching are in progress. The prayers are few and simple, undistinguishable, except in these characteristics, from those heard in all Protestant churches, and the congregation all join in the Amen. Brigham Young's preaching to-day was a very unsatisfactory, disappointing performance. There was every incentive to him to do Lis best ; he had an immense audience spread out under the "bow- ery" to the number of five or six thousand; before __ J him upo him nun CUSi But wh( ous bol( vul| his to 1 witl onl; Jes nov wer oM( we the was Chi ess: tort occ Sai chij abo and pro mai to a :iN£NX BRIGHAM YOUNGS PREACHING. 119 : by the large choir mon, song and all. s by Mr. Samuel W. lusetts origin, but a ry for many years. ;riority of the Mor- ts presidents, coun- nties, for the work tians, and claiming id like those of old, limpressive exhorta- m a tonguey deacon )dist meeting-house. testament, is used all Protestants ; the ly new and added menting the teach- s. The rite of the ^ery Sunday, water ind the distribution congregation, men, jering from three to 5 and the preaching are few and simple, lese characteristics, nt churches, and the len. to-day was a very erformance. There do Lis best ; he had ut under the "bow- ix thousand ; before him was Mr. Colfax, who had asked him to preach upon the distinctive Mormon doctrines; around him were all his elders and bishops, in unusual numbers ; and he was fresh from the exciting dis- cussion of yesterday on the subject of polygamy. But his address lacked logic, lacked effect, lacked wholly magnetism or impressiveness. It was a curi- ous medley of scriptural exposition and exhortation, bold and bare statement, coarse denunciation and vulgar allusion, cheap rant and poor cant. So far aa his statement of Mormon belief went, it amounted to this: that God was a human, material person, with like flesh and blood and passions to ourselves, only perfect in all things ; that he begot his son Jesus in the same way that children are begotten now ; tl-at Jesus and the father looked alike and were alike, distinguishable only by the former being older ; that our resurrection would be material, and we should live in heaven with the same bodies and the same passions as on earth; that Mormonism was the most perfect and true religion ; that those Christians who were not Mormons would not nec- essarily go to hell and be burned by living fire and tortured by ugly devils, but that they would not occupy so high places in heaven as the Latter Day Saints; that polygamy was the habit of all the children of God in the earlier ages, and was first abolished by the Goths and Vandals who conquered and constructed Rome; that Martin Luther ap- proved of it in a single case at least ; that a clergy- man of the church of England once married a man to a second wife while his first wife was living ; and -Jl lao ACROSS THE CONTINENT. that in England now, if a man wanted to change his wife, he had only to offer her at auction and knock her off for a pot of beer or a shilling, and marry another. (This last statement called out a voice of dissent from an English 'working-face in the audience.) A good deal of boasting of the success of the Mormons, their temperance, frugal- ity and honesty, and a sharp denunciation of the "few stinking lawyers who lived down in whiskey street, and for five dollars would attempt to make a lie into a truth," were the only other noticeable fea- tures of this discourse of the president of the church of the Latter Day Saints. It was a very material interpretation of the statements and truths of scripture, very illogically and roughly rendered ; and calculated only to influence a cheap and vulgar audience. Brigham Young may be a shrewd busi- ness man, an able organizer of labor, a bold, brave person in dealing with the practicalities of life, — he must, indeed, be all of these, for we see the eviden- ces all around this city and country ; but he is in no sense an impressive or effective preacher, judged by any standards that I have been accustomed to. His audience, swollen one or two thousand more, could not have helped drawing a sharp contrast, — dull in comprehension and fanatically devoted to him as most of them probably are, — between his speech and his style, and those of Mr. Colfax, who, at a later hour this evening, delivered in the same place, by invitation of the church and city authori- ties, his Chicago Eulogy on the Life and Principles of President Lincoln. He spoke it without notes, ai u rr re ai ai C( cc w ar th a fn Wi be se J" frc do H H se: lat mi lai ab sta CO] otl ma NENT. wanted to change ler at auction and or a shilling, and iment called out a sh 'working-face in f boasting of the :cmperance, frugal- snunciation of the 1 down in whiskey attempt to make a ther noticeable fea- president of the ts. It was a very tements and truths roughly rendered ; a cheap and vulgar ' be a shrewd busi- abor, a bold, brave calities of life, — he we see the eviden- mtry ; but he is in re preacher, judged :n accustomed to. wo thousand more, I sharp contrast, — itically devoted to are, — between his )f Mr. Colfax, who, vered in the same \\ and city authori- Life and Principles c it without notes, ELECTIONS IN UTAH. 121 and with much freedom and fervor to an audience unused to so effective and eloquent a style,. and more unused, we fear, to such sentiments ; and he received rapt attention and apparently delighted approval throughout the whole. Mr. Colfax's other and informal speeches here, and his whole inter- course with the authorities and people of all parties, considerate always, but frank and ever consistent with his principles, had won him the respect of all and the affection of many ; but the pronouncing of this eulogy has increased the feeling in his favor to a high enthusiasm. The election for territorial delegate to Congress from Utah occurs in August. Judge Kinney, who was sent here as judge by President Buchanan, and becoming agreeable to the Mormon leaders, was sent to Congress by them when superseded in his judgeship by Mr. Lincoln, has recently come back from Washington, and seeks re-election. • But it is doubtful if Mr. Young decides to have him go again. He has indicated a purpose of returning Captain Hooper, an old and prosperous merchant here, who served the term before Judge Kinney, and who has lately sold out his business here, in order to go on a mission for the church to England.* He was popu- lar and useful in Congress before, is an intelligent, able man, and though a Mormon of many years' standing, has the principle and good sense to be content with one most excellent wife. These and other selections for office are of course nominally made by the people voting as in other States and * Mr. Hooper has since been chosen to Congress. 6 ^j^amtma^ 122 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. Territories ; but the real choice is made beforehand by the church authorities, *and the vote is usually quite small. Only one case is knovm of the bish- op's ticket ever having been defeated. This was at a small country village in the choice for mayor ; but the fact was not suffered to go abroad, — it was too dangerous an example. But adieu to Salt Lake and many-wive-and-much- childrcn-dom ; to its strawberries and roses; its rare hospitality ; its white crowned peaks, its wide- spread valley, its river of scriptural name, its lake of briniest taste. I have met much to admire, many to respect, worshiped deep before its Na- ture, — found only one thing to condemn. I shall want to come again when the railroad can bring me, and that blot is gone. L. wgyp" ENT. made beforehand le vote is usually lovm of the bish- eated. This was :hoice for mayor ; abroad, — it was yr-wive-and-much- s and roses; its d peaks, its wide- -al name, its lake much to admire, p before its Na- ondemn. I shall ailroad can bring . LETTER XIII. SOCIAL LIFE AMONG THE MORMONS. Austin, Nevada, June 23. I GO back to the Mormons, to add some facts and gossip, because their civilization is so remarkable, and because they and their institutions are about to come into new and final conflict with the people and the government of the country. Polygamy in- troduces many curious cross-relationships, and in- tertwines the branches of the genealogical tree in a manner greatly to puzzle a mathematician, as well as to disgust the decent-minded. The marrying of two or more sisters is very common; one young Mormon merchant in Salt Lake City has three sisters for his three wives. There are several cases of men marrying both mother (widow) and her daughter or daughters; taking the ."old woman" for the sake of getting the young ones ; but having children by all. Please to cipher out for yourselves how this mixes things. More disgusting associa- tions are known,— even to the marrying of a half- sister by one Mormon. Consider, too, how these children of one father and many mothers, — the latter often blood relations, — are likely to become crossed 124 ACROSS Tlir. CONTINENT. again in new marriages, in the second or third, if not the first, generations, under the operation of this polygamous practice ; and it is safe to predict tliat a few generations of such social practices will breed a physical, moral and mental debasement of the people most frightful to contemplate. Already, in- deed, are such indications apparent, foreshadowing the sure and terrible realization. Brigham Young's wives are numberless ; at least no one seems to know how many he has ; and he has himself confessed to forgetfulness in the mat- ter. The probability is he has from si.xtecn to twenty genuine or complete wives, and about an many more women "sealed" to him for heavenly association and glory. The latter are mostly pious old ladies, eager for high seats in the Mormon heaven, and knowing no surer way to get there than to be joined on to Brigham's angelic proces- sion. Some of these sealed wives of his are the earthly wives of other men ; but, lacking faith in their husbands' heavenly glory, seek to make a sure thing of it for the future by the grace of gracious Brigham. Down East, you know, many a husband calculates on stealing into heaven under the pious petticoats of his better wife ; here the thing is re- versed, and women go to heaven because their hus- bands take them along. The Mormon religion is an excellent institution for maintaining masculine authority in the family ; and the greatness of <a true Mormon is measured, indeed, by the number of wives he can keep in sweet and loving and espe- cially obedient subjugation. Such a man can have ^j*t. KNT. 'A COOU THING KOR A TOOK MAN. 125 jconcl or third, if ; operation of this L' to predict tli:;t a iictices will breed ■basement of the ite. Already, in- tit, foreshadowing nberless ; at least y he has ; and he Iness in the mat- from sixteen to es, and about as him for heavenly r are mostly pious in the Mormon way to get there 3 angelic proces- es of his arc the , lacking faith in ek to make a sure grace of gracious ■, many a husband I under the pious e the thing is re- jecause their hus- ormon religion is taining masculine ;reatness of -a true y the number of loving and espe- h a man can have i as many wives as he wants. But President Young objects to multiplying wives for men who have not this rare domestic gift. So there is no chance for you and me, my dear Jones, becoming successful Mormons! In many cases, the Mormon wives not only sup- port themselves and their children but help support their husbands. Thus a clerk or other man, with similar limited income, who has yielded to the fasci- nations and desires of three or four women, and married them all, makes his home with number one, perhaps, and the rest live iipart, each by herself, tak- ing in .sewing or washing, or engaging in other em- ployment, to keep up her establishment and be no charge to her husband. He comes around, once in a while, to make her a visit, and then she sets out an extra table and spends all her accumulated earnings to make him as comfortable and herself as charming as possible, so that her fraction of the dear sainted fhan may be multiplied as much as possible. Thus the fellow, if he is lazy and has turned his piety to the goi <l account of getting smart wives, may really board around continually, and live in clover, at no personal expense but his own clothing. Is not this a divine institution, in- deed! When President Young goes on a journey through the Territory, on private or public business, he takes a considerable retinue with him, and always a wife and a barber. The former is more his servant than his companion in such cases, however. His house- hold is said to be admirably managed. A son-in- 1-,. 126 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. law acts as commissary ; the wives have nothing to do with the table or its supply ; and whenever they want new clothes or pocket money, they must go to this chief of staft" or head of the family bureau. Considering his opportunities, the head of the Church of Latter Day Saints has made a rather sorry selection of women on the score of beauty. The oldest or first is a matronly-looking old lady, serene and sober; the youngest and present pet, who was obtained, they say, after much seeking, is comely but common- looking, despite the extra mil- linery in which she alone of the entire family in- dulges. The second president and favorite prophet of the church, Heber Kimball, who in church and theater keeps the cold from his bare head and the divine afflatus in by throwing a red bandanna hand- kerchief over it, is even less fortunate in the beauty of his wives ; it is rather an imposition upon the word beauty, indeed, to suggest it in their presence. Handsome women and girls, in fact, are scarce among the Mormons of Salt Lake, — the fewer " Gentiles " can show many more of them. Why is this ? Is beauty more esthetic and ascetic ? Or, good-looking women being supposed to have more chances for matrimony than their plainer sisters, do they all insist upon having the whole of one man, and leave the Mormon husbands to those whose choice is like Hobson's? The only polyga- mist, into whose family circle we were freely admit- ted, had, however, found two very pretty women to divide him between them ; and I must confess they appeared to take their share of him quite resignedly. L 11 ENT. :s have nothing to p** nd whenever they ley, they must go » he family bureau. the head of the as made a rather "^ *" ; score of beauty. • -looking old lady, and present pet, much seeking, is 3ite the extra mil- entire family in- d favorite prophet ho in church and are head and the d bandanna hand- ., • nate in the beauty josition upon the in their presence. n fact, are scarce ' Lake, — the fewer of them. Why is ind ascetic? Or, Dsed to have more ir plainer sisters, the whole of one Lisbands to those ■• » The only polyga- were freely admit- ' pretty women to must confess they ' 1 BRIGHAMS CHILDREN. 127 1 quite resignedly, if not amicably. They were English, and of nearly equal years ; appeared together in the parlor and in public with their husband, and dressed alike ; but they had the same quiet, subdued, half-sad air that characterized all the Mormon women, young and old, that I saw in prblic or private. There is cer- tainly none of that "loudness" about the Mormon ladies, that an eastern man cannot help observing in the manners of our western women generally. And I hardly think the difference is to be attribu- ted to the superior refinement and culture of the sisters of the Salt Lake Basin ; it rather and really is the sign and mark of their servitude, their de- basement. Brigham Young's younger children, as seen in his school, to which we were admitted, look sprightly and bright and handsome ; and some of his gp'own up daughters are comely and clever ; but his older sons give no marked sign of their father's smart- ness. The oldest, Brigham Jr., is mainly distin- guished for his size and strength, — he weighs two to three hundred pounds, and is muscular in propor- tion. He has now taken one of his wives and gone to England with her, on business for the church. The next son, John, is a poor, puny looking fellov, with several wives and an inordinate love for whis- key. Brigham's dynasty will die with himself. There is no more love lost between the soldiers and the Mormons than between the soldiers and the Indians. The "boys in blue" regard both as their natural enemies, and the enemies of order and the government ; and the feeling is cordially recip- L 128 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. i rocated. General Connor, the commander of the military force in Utah, has never even seen Brigbam Young ; and the latter, it is quite certain, has no desire ever to see him. There is a provost guard of soldiers in Salt Lake City, but the rent of the building which it occupies is about expiring, and, according to a Mormon way of getting rid of an uncomfortable presence, none other is now to be had in its place. Every building singularly hap- pens to be occupied or engaged just now; and the Mormons have evidently hoped to thus drive all these standing menaces, and seducers of their wo- men, as they add the soldiers all are, out of town and into the camp, two miles distant. But when Mr. Colfax suggested to two or three of the elders that such a result could only be interpreted at Washington as a compact and contrivance to em- barrass the soldiers and defy the government, they seen.ed to be incited to a new and original line of thought; and the probability is that the provost guard will be able to find some unoccupied build- ing, that had not been before thought of. One of the characters of Mormondom is Porter Rockwell, the accredited leader of the Danites or "Avenging Angels" of the church. We were pre- sented to him, and were invited to eat strawberries and cream at his "ranch," but our engagements did not permit our accepting and partaking. Though given to heavy whiskey drinking of late years, he is as mild a mannered man as ever scuttled ship or murdered crews ; and I really do not think that any anxiety for our lives entered into our declination of J L. «IENT. lommander of the :ven seen Brigbam ite certain, has no is a provost guard at the rent of the lOUt expiring, and, getting rid of an her is now to be ig singularly hap- just now; and the to thus drive all ucers of their wo- 1 are, out of town stant. But when hree of the elders be interpreted at ontrivance to em- government, they id original line of that the provost unoccupied build- iight of. nondom is Porter of the Danites or h. We were pre- eat strawberries engagements did rtaking. Though of late years, he 5r scuttled ship or lot think that any 3ur declination of PORTER ROCKWELL, "THE AVENGER." 1 29 his hospitality, inexplicable as it may seem that for any less reason we should have omitted any opportunity at strawberries. There is a difference of opinion, even among the "Gentiles," as to his real share in the mysterious and terrible takings- off of parties in bad odor with the ;,aints of the church; though unlettered, he is strong-minded and strong-hearted, and, unless under the influence . of a shocking fanaticism, I can hardly believe, from his appearance and manners, he could be guilty of such crimes as are laid at his door by the more im- placable and suspicious of the "Gentile" residents. I should not be willing, however, to see Mr. Fitz- hugh Ludlow fall in his way again ; there might 'lot be murder, but the author of the largely imagina- tive articles in the Atlantic Monthly on this west- ern journey would certainly feel the sharp ven- geance of the injured and irate "Avenger." Mr. Ludlow tells the worst stories about Rockwell, such as that he had committed about fifty murders for the church and as many more on private account, as if accepted, proved facts ; at the same time- that he acknowledges being his guest, and availing him- self of his courtesies to see the country. Porter shuts his teeth hard when the subject is now men- tioned, and mutters that he supposes "it is all wheat," this being Utah idiom for all right. Which means, of course, that he don't suppose any such thing. There is little or no immigration to the Mormons this season, at least not yet. They have been send- ing out fresh relays of missionaries and recruiting 6» 9 130 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. agents to England and the Continent of Europe, and expect great returns next year. On the Sand- wich Isli^nds they seem to have estabUshed a per- manent colony, also, to which has just been con- tributed a new company of about fifty, men, women and children from Utah. Some of the "Gentiles" believe this Sandwich Island movement is towards a new and contingent base ; and that if hard pressed here by the progress of civilization and the hand- of authority, the Mormon leaders will gather up all their available forces and wealth, and retreat thither. It is certain that they must make a change of base of one sort or another before long, either in the matter of polygamy, or else in the locr^tion of their earthly tabernacles and kingdom. Even without the interference of government, they must soon give way here, in their peculiar sway and their re- volting institution, before the progress of population and the diversification of civilized industry that comes along with it. Our bachelor stage-driver out of Salt Lake, who said he expected to have a revelation soon to take one of the extra wives of a Mormon saint, is a representative of the Coming Man. Let the Mormons look out foi him. U ^aemmmmimmm .L.„ ENT. tinent of Europe, ir. On the Sand- established a per- is just been con- fifty, men, women of the "Gentiles" cement is towards lat if hard pressed on and the hand- will gather up all nd retreat thither, a change of base ing, either in the 2 locrttion of their 1. Even without they must soon iway and their re- ress of population ted industry that lelor stage-driver icpected to have a Sie extra wives of ve of the Coming t foi him. LETTER XIV. THE RIDE THROUGH THE SAGE BRUSH AND THE GREAT BASIN. Virginia, Nevada, June 28. We are nearly out of the Sage Brush ! Nearly into a "white ccruntry," where the grass grows .green, and water runs, and trees mount skyward and spread sweet shade. Like some of the dry, barren plains that lead up to the Rocky Moun- tains on the east, the six hundred miles we have come over from Salt Lake to this point, pass throu^rh a region whose uses are unimaginable, unless to hold the rest of the globe together, or to teach pa- tience to travelers, or to keep close-locked in its mountain ranges those rich mineral treasures that the world did not need or was not ready for until now. The Basin of the Great Salt Lake, that I briefly described in a late letter as the center of the Mormon development, is but the south-eastern and most fertile corner of an immensely large intra- mountain basin, that has no water outlet to the ocean, that absorbs all the water developed within its limits, and cries, oh how hungrily for more, whose chief natural vegetable product is Sage !■ 132 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. Brush, and which holds within its bounds the great, if not the sole, silver mines of the nation. This Great Desert Basin, — but desert only because comparatively waterless, — lies on the very central and commercial line of the Republic, —the line of greatest population and thrift and wealth both east and west of it, — stretches three hundred miles from north to south and six hundred miles from east to west, is about equally divided between the two states of Utah and Nevada, and is walled in on the one side by the Rocky Mountains and on the other by the Sierra Nevadas. Not a wide, unbroken plain, however, is this vast basin desert of the W^est. Through it, north and south, run subsidiary ranges of mountains, averaging at least one to every fifty miles, and the intervening valleys or plains all dip, though almost imperceptibly, to the center, which gratefully suggests that they were once not alto- gether so tearless as now. Mountain and plain are alike above dew point ; rain is a rarity, — near neigh- bor to absolute stranger ; and only an occasional range of the hills mounts so high as to hold its winter snows into the sumn?er suns, and yield the summer streams that give, at rare intervals, sweet lines of green, affording forage for cattle and re- freshment and rest for traveler. Springs are even more infrequent, but not altogether unknown, and water may sometimes, though very hardly, be got, when all else fails, by digging deep wells. Such streams as rise from springs or snow-banks in the mountains, begin to shrink as they reach the Plains, and end in s^lt lakes, or sink quietly into the fam- J J ENT. bounds the great, e nation. esert only because the very central iblic, — the line of I wealth both east jndred miles from miles from east to ecn the two states ied in on the one d on the other by ;, unbroken plain, ert of the West, subsidiary ranges one to every fifty i or plains all dip, the center, which re once not alto- tain and plain are rity, — near neigh- nly an occasional gh as to hold its uns, and yield the re intervals, sweet "or cattle and re- Springs are even ler unknown, and ry hardly, be got, leep wells. Such mow-banks in the r reach the Plains, ietly into the fam- J J THE RIVERS OF THE GREAT BASIN. 133 ishing earth. Humboldt River, the largest and longest of the basin, runs west and south from three hundred to five hundred miles, and then finds igno- minious end in a "sink," or, in a very natural big disgust at the impossibility of the job it has under- taken, quietly "peters out." So of the Carson River, which comes from the Sierra Ncvadas on the west, and finds its home in a lagoon within sight of its parent peakt. Reese River, now so fa- mous as localizing the new and extensive silver mining operations about Austin, is but a sluggish brook that the shortest-legged man could step across at its widest, and yields itself up to the hot sands without greening but a narrow line in the broad plain in which it runs. And yet it is the largest and almost only stream that we met in traveling westward from the Jordan which waters the valley of Salt Lake ; and the two are four hundred miles apart ! Through this wide stretch of treeless mountain and plain, at its center, — fifty to one hundred miles below the old and more fortunately watered emi- grant route along the valley of the Humboldt, — on a nearly straight line west, we have made the most rapid stage ride yet achieved on the great overland line, and the equal perhaps of any ever made of like distance on the Continent. Mr. Holladay's ownership ceases at Salt Lake ; from there hither, the stages are run by the Overland Mail Company, whose stockholders are New Yorkers, and mainly the same as those of the great express company of Wells, Fargo *t Co., which monopolizes the express I I J 134 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. business in all these western States and Territories, having its offices in every town and village, and ex- tending its routes as fast and as far as the most enterprising prospectors successfully push their hunt for the precious metals. At Salt Lake City, therefore, wc parted with our protector and com- panion, thus far, Mr. Otis,— with many a rare mem- ory of his good fellowship,— and found new friends and careful protection on our farther journey in the officers and drivers of the Overiand Company. Their part of the line has been happily exempt, for now two years, from the inroads of the Indians; it is all nearer to good markets than most of Mr. Holladay's ; and so we naturally found it in better condition, and able to run more promptly and regu- larly. .Ambitious to see how fast they could send Mr. Colfax and his friends over their route, they took us up at Salt Lake on Monday morning week, and ,5et us down at Austin, four hundred miles dis- tant, in fifty hours, or two-thirds the time usually taken. Awaiting our examination of the mining region about Austin, we were again put over the road on the double quick, and landed in Virginia, two hundred miles farther oft, in twenty-two hours more, or fourteen less than the schedule time ; and so came into this town at six o'clock Sunday morn- ing, while all the elements of a magnificent popular reception, that had been arranged for the night be- fore, were fast asleep in bed, and totally undreaming of the march that we were stealing upon them. Here, we are near the foot of the Sierra Nevadas, on the borders of California, and will be transferred, i ' 1 I i lENT. es and Territories, nd village, and cx- is far as the most isfully push their it Salt Lake City, "otector and corn- many a rare mem- found new friends farther journey in iverland Company, lappily exempt, for Is of the Indians; than most of Mr. ' found it in better oromptly and regu- st they could send r their route, they day morning week, hundred miles dis- s the time usually ion of the mining igain put over the landed in Virginia, 1 twenty-two hours schedule time ; and lock Sunday morn- nagnificent popular id for the night be- totally undreaming :ealing upon them, he Sierra Nevadas, '. will be transferred, A FAST STAGE RIDE. 135 1 I for our farther progress, to still another line of coaches. But our fast ride by the Overland Mail stages from Salt Lake will always be a chief feature in the history and memory of our grand journe^ across the Continent. The stations of the company are ten to fifteen miles apart ; at every station fresh horses, ready harnessed, took the places of the qld, with a delay of from two to four minutes only; every fifty miles a new driver took his place on the box ; wherever meals were to be eaten, they were ready to serve on arrival ; and so, with horses ever fresh and fat, and gamey,— horses that would shine in Central Park and Fifth Avenue equipages, — with drivers, gentlemanly, intelligent and better dressed than their passengers, and a division superintend- ent, who had planned the ride and came along to see it executed, for each two hundred miles, — we were whirled over the rough mountains and through the dry and dusty plains of this uninhabited and uninhabitable region, rarely passing a house except the stage stations, never seeing wild bird or beast, for there were none to see, as rapidly and as regu- larly as we could have been over macadamized roads amid a complete civilization. The speed rarely feii l low eight miles an hour, and often ran up to twelve. But so wisely was all arranged, and so well executed, that not an animal suffered ; to horses and men the ride *.eemed to be the work of every day, as indeed it was in everything but our higher rate of speed. But the passengers are content that it should be i3<5 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. f^'''i H I a sinRlc experience for them ; they are glad to have had it, but will spare their friends a repetition,— at present. The allcali dust, dry with a season's sun, fine with the grinding of a season's stages and freight trains, was thick and constant and pene- trating beyond experience and eomparison. It filled the air,— it was the air ; it covered our bodies,— it penetrated them ; it soared to Almighty attributes, and became omnipresent, and finding its way into bags and trunks, begrimed all our clean clothes and reduced everything and everybody to a common plane of dirt, with a soda, soapy flavor to all. This alkali element in the soil of all this region, as of much of the country on the other side of the Rocky Mountains, I have heard no explanation of. In some spots it prevails to such a degree as to clean the ground of all, even the most barren vegetation ; and wide, smooth, bare alkali plains stretch out be- fore the eye sometimes for miles, and white in the distance like a snow-bank. In some places so strong is it that the earth when wet rises like bread under yeast. It taints the water everywhere, and some- times so strongly that bread -mixed with it needs no other " rising." Yet I find no evidence of any gen- eral unhealthy effect from its presence ; animals eat the grass and drink the water flavored with it ; and though the dust chokes all pores and makes the nose and lips sore, the inconvenience and annoy- ance seem to be but temporary from even large doses of it. Then the jolts of the rocks and the "chuck holes" of the road, to which the drivers in their rapid prog- I r r V r t t r s r t s b ti f( a ti I li I n y it d P tl S( S( ai g w ir a lENT. y are glad to have s a repetition, — at ith a season's sun, ason's stages and instant and pene- mparison. It filled red our bodies, — it Imighty attributes, nding its way into r clean clothes and ody to a common flavor to all. 1 of all this region, le other side of the no explanation of. a degree as to clean ; barren vegetation ; ains stretch out be- ;s, and white in the ime places so strong ies like bread under ry where, and some- Lcd with it needs no ividence of any gen- esence ; animals eat avored with it ; and ires and makes the 2nience and annoy- ,ry from even large id the "chuck holes" 3 in their rapid prog- MR. GREELEY AND HANK MONK, THE DRIVER. 1 37 ress could give no heed, kept us in a somewhat per- petual and not altogether graceful motion. There was certainly small sleep to be enjoyed during this memorable ride of three days and nights ; and though we made the best of it with joke and felici- tation at each other's discomfort, there was none not glad when it was over. The drivers all had the same consolation to administer to us for the rough riding, and that was the story, memorable all along this route, of Mr. Greeley's experience upon it some six years ago. He had met rather a dull driver, was behind time, and became impatient, as he had a lec- ture engagement just over the mountains in Cali- fornia. So when he struck the mountain road, and a noted driver then and still, — for stage driving is a trade that men follow through their lives, — by name Hank Monk, kr. Greeley suggested that he would like to get over the road a triflg faster. " Yes," said Hank, as he gathered up the reins of six half-wild mustangs, then in common use on the road, — "keep your seat Mr. Greeley, and I will get you through in time." Crack went his whip; the mustangs dashed into a fearful pace, up hill and down, along precipices frightful to look at, over rocks that kept the noted passenger passing frantically between seat and ceiling of the coach; — the philosopher soon was getting more than he bargained for ; and at the first soft place on the road, he mildly sug- gested to the driver that a half an hour more or less would not make much difference. But Monk was in for his drive and his joke, and replied again, with a twinkle in his left eye, after a fresh cut at his mus- 138 ACKOSS THE CONTINENT. ir tangs, "Just keep your scat, Mr. Greeley, and you shall be through in time." Mr. Greeley kept his seat so well as he could, got through on time, and better, unharmed, though greatly to his surprise, in view of the dangers and roughness of the drive, and rewarded the driver, who had served him the rough joke, with a new suit of clothes. The story is now classic with all the drivers and all travelers on the road ; and Monk wears a watch with his re- ply to Mr. Greeley engraved on the case, — the pres- ent of some other passengers, whom he had driven both rapidly and safely over his perilous route. The road is better now ; and the horses tamer ; but the driving is hardly less fearful. It is an interesting problem whether these un- promising valleys, gray and brown with an unnat- ural sunshine, can ever be subdued to the service of the population that the mineral wealth of their hills invites and will inevitably draw into them. Save a sandy desert of sixty miles wide, which comes after the fertile strip of eastern Utah is passed, there is nothing in the soil itself that for- bids valuable uses. It is made up of the wash and waste of the Rocky Mountains, and wherever even moderifely watered is very productive. Some the- orists contend that with the occupation and use of the country, rains will multiply ; and the observa- tions of the Mormons give a faint encouragement to this idea. Another theory is, that by ploM^ing during the later rains of spring, and soWing during the long, dry summer rest, the smaller and hardy grains will sprout with the fall rains, strengthen in i INENT. r. Greeley, and you r. Greeley kept his rough on time, and y to his surprise, in hness of the. drive, tiad served him the clothes. The story irs and all travelers a watch with his re- the case, — the prcs- A'hom he had driven his perilous route, c horses tamer ; but 1. » whether these un- rown with an unnat- jdued to the service neral wealth of their jly draw into them. f miles wide, which of eastern Utah is e soil itself that fnr- e up of the wash and s, and wherever even oductive. Some the- iccupation and use of ly ; and the observa- faint encouragement \f is, that by plowcing g, and sowing during le smaller and hardy 1 rains, strengthen in THE BEAUTY OH THE HILLS. 139 the winter, and quickly ripen in the early spring. Such treatment involves a year's fallow, as the har- vest would be too late for another plowing; the same sspriuK. This culture is doubtless practicable, as it has been proven, in the high sage brush plains in California; but it would seem as if these alkaline valleys of the great interior basin were too cold, and go dry too long, for like successful treatment. It is worthy intelligent and persistent experiment, however ; for I observe that wherever the sage bush can grow, other things can and will with the addi- tion of water. Do not think such a country is altogether with- out beauty or interest for a traveler. Mountains arc always beautiful ; and here they are ever in sight, wearing every variety of shape, and even in their hard and bare surfaces presenting many a fascina- tion of form, — running up into sharp peaks ; rising up and rounding out into innumerable iat mam- millas, exquisitely shapen, and inviting possibly to auriferous feasts ; sloping down into faint foot-hills, and mingling with the plain to which they are all destined; and now and then offering the silvery streak of snow, that is the sign of water for man and the promise of grass for ox. Add to the moun- tains the clear, pure, rare atmosphere, bringing re- mote objects close, giving new size and distinctness to moon and^stars, offering sunsets and sunrises of indescribable richness and reach of color, and ac- companied with cloudless skies and a south wind, refreshing at all times, and cool and exhilarating ever in the afternoon and evening; and you have ^ssamm i <-wt iil 140 ACROSS THS CONTINENT. large compensations even for the lack of vegeta- tion and color in the landscape. There is a rich exhilaration, especially, in the fresh evening air, dry, clear and strengthening, that no eastern mountain or ocean breeze can rival. In looking out through it at sunset on the starry heavens, and in taking in its subtle inspiration, one almost forgets alkali, and for the nonce does not remember flowers and grass and trees. TI '"^ I 18 N( un an cu m( ra1 foi sis shi Ca th( in coi Fr vai ale sh; en th« NENT. he lack of vegcta- !. There is a rich :sh evening air, dry, ) eastern mountain Doking out through IS, and in taking in t forgets alkali, and ;r flowers and grass LETTER XV. THE SILVER MINES OF NEVADA— AUSTIN AND VIRGINIA CITY. Virginia, Nevada, June 27. California, mature at eleven, plants a colony in 1859-60, which ripens into a new State in 1864. Nevada is the first child of California. As bachelor uncles and fond friends sometimes think children are born in order to wheedle them out of silver cups; so Nevada sprang into being under like metallic influence. And if she promised to give, rather than to get, she fails yet to keep full faith ; for though in her six years c. Ife, she has yielded sixty millions of material for pure coin of the realm, she has absorbed much more than that amount of California capital and labor. Coming west out of the barren plains of the great interior basin, — even in their midst, — we strike the first wave of Pacific coast life at Austin. Five hundred miles from San Francisco, two hundred miles from the Sierra Ne- vadas, in middle Nevada, huddled and incoherent along the steep hill-sides of a close canyon, running sharply up from the Reese River valley, lies the east- ernmdst and freshest mining town of the State and the section. Pii llil k 142 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. Two'years old, Austin has already had a popula- tion of six or eight thousand, cast one thousand nine hundred votes at the presidential election, and, now, experiencing its first reaction, falls back to four thousand inhabitants. It bears family likeness to Central City and Black Hawk in Colorado; houses are buiit anywhere and everywhere, and streets are then made to reach them ; one side of a house will be four stories and the other but two,— such is the lay of the land ; not a tree nor a flower, nor a grass plot does the whole town boast,— not one ; but it has the best French restaurant I have met since New York, a daily newspaper, and the boot-blacks and barbers, and baths are luxurious and aristocratic to the continental degree ;— while one of the finest specimens of feminine physical beauty and grace presides over a lager beer saloon ; gambling riots openly in the large area of every drinking shop,— miners risking to this chance at night the proceeds of the scarcely less doubtful chance of the day ; and weak-minded and curious strangers are tempted by such advertisements as this :— • Mammoth Lager Beer Saloon, in the basement, comer Main and Virginia streets, Austin, Nevada. Choice liquors, wines, lager beer and cigars, served by pretty girls, who understand their business and attend to it Votaries o'. Bacchus, Gambrinus, Venus or Cupid can spend an evening agreeably at the Mammoth Saloon. Both inquisitive and classical, we went in search of this bower of the senses ; and we found a cellar, whitewasheij and sawdusted ; two fiddles and a clar- ionet in one corner ; a bar of liquors glaring in an- T otl era cla ogi Cu les oui an( mi are Ba tai; sig sue wi< grs mil sor thr ad\ rel; poi tin req Iik( ter to I bei bee cor of T ENT. ady had a popula- ast one thousand ntial election, and, ;ion, falls back to ars family likeness iwk in Colorado; : everywhere, and them; one side of le other but two, — I tree nor a flower, ; town boast, — not restaurant I have ewspaper, and the aths are luxurious tal degree ;— while feminine physical L lager beer saloon ; arge area of every ; to this chance at rcely less doubtful linded and curious advertisements as isement, comer Main and : liquors, wines, lager beer jnderstand their business ambrinus, Venus or Cupid ammoth Saloon. we went in search id we found a cellar, vo fiddles and a clar- quors glaring in an- MYTHOLOGY AND MINES AT AUSTIN. 143 other ; and a fat, coarse Jew girl proved the sole embodiment and representative of all these pro- claimed gods and goddesses. We blushingly apol- ogized, and retired with our faces to Mistress Venus, Cupid, etc., as guests retire from mortal monarchs, — lest our pockets should be picked ; and we shall take our mythology out of the dictionaries hereafter. All up the Austin hill-sides, among the houses, and beyond them, are the big ant-hills that denote mines or the hopes of such. Down in the valley are the mills for crushing and separating the ore. Back and around the corners, and over the moun- tains for many miles, are similar though less frequent signs. The main Austin^ belt, however, has been successfully traced for but five miles, and one in width. The veins of ore lie thick in the rotten granite of the hills, like the spread fingers of some mineral giant. They are also comparatively small, sometimes as inches, rarely widening to more than three or four feet. But to compensate for this dis- advantage, they are exceeding rich and generally reliable. But then again, the metal is so com- pounded with sulphurets of other metals, with an- timony and arsenic, that it is hard to extract, and requires a roasting, burning, or smelting process, like the gold ores of Colorado, in addition and in- termediate to those of crushing and amalgamating, to successful operation. About fifty veins are now being worked successfully, and as many more have been satisfactorily prospected,, and are being put in condition for operating, or are awaiting the coming of capital and its machinery. Water flows into all laUMMM ' ltf l t.W a eJ B iS ^' lW-'^iW'**''''''* mm^. 144 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. the veins freely, and much labor is required to pump it out. The first necessity of every mine, indeed, is a steam engine and hoisting apparatus, to draw up water and ore from the bottom of the shaft or tunnel. But few of the mines have mills connected with them ; several of the older and strong compa- nies only combine both operations, and make the two profits. The mills are located with regard to wood and water, rather than to the ore, and the lat- ter is carted sometimes for miles to be worked. Half a dozen mills, working some seventy-five stamps in all, are already put up in the Austin and neighboring canyons; but only about fifty stamps are now at wprk. The, number will speedily be doubled by mills going up or undergoing repair. The ore yields from one hundred to four hundred dollars in silver and gold per ton ; but at present prices, it costs nearly or quite one hundred dol- lars to mine and work it, so that which yields only one hundred dollars cannot be profitably worked. Consequently miners, who have no mills, separate their ores, and hire worked out only the most valu- able, saving the rest up until competition brings down the price of milling, or they erect mills of their own. The charge for working the ores at the mills is eighty dollars a ton, about half of which is profit. The sai e description of work can be hired done here at Virginia for thirty to forty dollars per ton. The ore of one mine near A\istin has aver- aged one hundred and eighty dollars a ton for many months, and yields a net profit of at least eighty dollars a ton to its owners. Another company, CM on in] fifi st< ex dr th an dr vvi pe to th( no ne wi su be CO tr£ an fre Sa is an dis mi mi NENT. is required to pump :very mine, indeed, apparatus, to draw ;om of the shaft or ave mills connected and strong compa- ons, and make the ited with regard to the ore, and the lat- iles to be worked. some seventy-five D in the Austin and about fifty stamps er will speedily be undergoing repair, ed to four hundred ton; but at present ; one hundred dol- it which yields only 2 profitably worked, e no mills, separate only the most valu- competition brings they erect mills of rking the ores at the out half of which is jf work can be hired y to forty dollars per ■ar A\istin has aver- lollars a ton for many it of at least eighty Another company, CASES OF SUCCESSFUL MINING. 145 owning both mill and mines, finds its ores yielding one hundred and fifty dollars a ton without assort- ing, and the cost of getting out and working is but fifty dollars ; so that, working six tons a day, their steady profits are six hundred dollars daily, on an expenditure, in investments, of less than two hun- dred thousand dollars, and the employment of about thirty men. New York companies are "now coming in here and putting up fine new establishments. One hun- dred thousand dollars will pay for a fine large mill with "fifteen to twenty stamps. Promising, pros- pected mines can be bought for from ten thousand to one hundred thousand dollars, depending upon the extent of their claims on the surface, and the notoriety they have attained, as well as upon the gullibility of the purchasers. It is not advisable for new enterprises to erect mills, first because there will probably soon be enough in the region to supply present wants at a fair price, and secon^, because so soon as a cheaper and more speedy communication can be obtained, the ores will be transferred to other places, where fuel and water are more abundant, for milling. Even now, with freight ten to twelve cents a pound from Austin to San Francisco, all the ore from one mine in Austin is sent to Engl&nd to be worked. It is so valuable and yet so refractory that it pays to send it this long distance in order to give it a cheap but complete manipulation. New discoveries of valuable ore are constantly making both in the immediate neighborhood of 7 10 MMWi g *!iw^--j'vw g i a ii ' wmiJM- 146 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. Austin, and far south and north on the same range of mountains. In both directions veins equally rich and much larger have been found ; and many parties are busy prospecting. Scattered mills are also in operation in these more remote localities; and many a mining village is struggling for notu- riety among the Humboldt mountains to the north- west. But Austin is the chief point of mining population and development in central Nevada, as Virginia is in western ; and the two are by far the most conspicuous and representative points of the silver mining interest on the Pacific Coast. But Virginia presents many contrasts to Austin. It is three or four years older ; it puts its gambling behind an extra door ; it is beginning to recognize the Sabbath, has many churches open, and closes part of its stores on that day ; is exceedingly well built, in large proportion with solid brick stores and warehouses; and though the fast and fascinating times of 1862-63 are over, when it held from fifteen thousand to twenty thousand people, and Broadway and Wall street were not more crowded than its streets, it has a thrifty and enterprising air, and con- tains a population of ten thousand, besides the ad- joining town or extension of Gold Hill, which has about three thousand more. The. situation of Virginia is very picturesque; abo#e the canyon or ravine, it is spread along the mountain side, like the roof of a house, about half way to the top. Right above rises a noble peak, fifteen hundred feet higher than the town, itself about six thousand feet "high ; below stretches the foo sisi anc as tan pre ] tin, of alo of om ist woi the of sea var At ha\ cor StOi has of' the its vail but spe but lief and <ENT. on the same range ons veins equally found; and many Scattered mills are remote localities ; Tuggling for noto- itains to the norlh- f point of mining central Nevada, as two are by far the ative points of the ;ific Coast, ontrasts to Austin, t puts its gambling nning to recognize s open, and closes is exceedingly well lid brick stores and ist and fascinating it held from fifteen ople, and Broadway : crowded than its irising air, and con- .nd, besides the ad- ald Hill, which has I very picturesque; is spread along the a house, about half rises a noble peak, lan the town, itself below stretches the THE COMSTOCK LEDGE AT VIRGINIA. M7 foot-hill, bisected by the ravine ; around on all sides, sister hills rise in varyirfg hights, rich in roundness and other forms of beauty, but brown in barrenness, as if shorn for prize fight, and fading out into dis- tant plain, with a sweet green spot to mark the rare presence of water and verdure. Different, too, in its mines is Virginia from Aus- tin. Instead of numerous little veins, the wealth of Virginia lies in one grand ledge of ore, running along the mountain side, just within the upper line of the town, for three miles ; of width, from fifty to one hundred feet, and of depth incalculable. This is the famous Comstock Ledge ; and no silver mines worth working have yet been found off from it, in the neighborhood of Virginia; though thousands of dollars and years of labor have been spent in the search. Nor has the working of this ledge at its various points beer attended with uniform success. At least as many c i..panies have failed upon it as have succeeded. Only fourteen out of about thirty companies formed and still at work upon the Com- stock Ledge have paid dividends. C'ne company has spent over a million dollars in the vain pursuit of "pay ore ;" the vein it has, the ore it finds, but the latter is not rich enough to pay for milling. But it still goes on, seduced by the hope of finding the valuable streak which its neighbor had yesterday, but may have lost to-day. Other companies have spent hundreds of thousands for vain expectations ; but still hold on, some of them alt least, in the be- lief that a lower point in the lode will develop sure and recompensing wealth. The success of other -.4 -L 148 i^CROSS THIi CONTINENT. V,- i Hr companies has been more marked even than these failuies, though they be fewer in number. The Gould & Curry is the largest and most fa- mous enterprise heie. It has twelve hundred feet in length on the surface of the ledge, has dug down six hundred to eight hundred feet in depth, and t>ack and forth on its line twenty or thirty times ; its whole excavations foot up five millions of cubic feet, and afford some two miles of underground travel, and it has consumed more lumber to brace up the walls of its tunnels than entire city of Virginia above ground has used .or i its build- ings. This company own the 'irge-^i and finest mill probably in the world, costing nearly a million of dollars, and running eighty sta'vips. This mam- moth enterprise has only drawn one hundred and eighty thousand dollars froi 'ts stockholders, and has paid them back four uullions in dividends. Altogether, it has produced twelve millions of bul- lion, and but for extravagance in management and the necessity for many a blind and expensive ex- periment, its profit share of this sum would have been at least fifly, instead of thirty-three, per cent. In one year the yield of this mine was four and a half millions, and its profits one million , but with . a railroad to San Francisco, the latter would have been swollen to three millions ! This immense development was secured under the energetic superintendence of Mr. Charles L. Strong, a native of Easthampton in Hampshire County, Massachusetts, brother of the brave Gen- eral Strong who fell in leading the black troops ■.-,. ^ .Mitmm.»'< ~ ^ *^^" ' ;.'M.^}'W i M I '^ INENT. ccd even than these n number. argest and most fa- twelve hundred feet ledge, has dug down feet in depth, and nty or thirty times ; ive millions of cubic les of underground lore lumber to brace an entire city of sed >"3r i Its build- e 'arge-^^L and finest ting nearly a million sta^Tips. This mam- vn one hundred and 'ts stockholders, and illions in dividends, velve millions of bul- in management and id and expensive ex- :his sum would have thirty-three, per cent. mine was four and a )ne million , but with :he latter would have i! t was secured under ;e of Mr. Charles L. npton in Hampshire cr of the brave Gen- ing the black troops 1 i THE GOULD AND CURRY MINE. 149 pon the forts of Charleston, and the nephew and ^.idopted son of Mr. A. L. Strong of that village. Mr. Strong took charge of the Gould & Curry mine in its infancy, and carried it on to its perfection and triumph, when, about a year and a half ago, his con- stitution gave way under its great responsibility and work, and he was forced to retire. At one time, the mine sold at the rate of six thousand dollars a foot, but now it is down to about eighteen hundred ; for, though it is producing bullion at the rate of two millions a year, and pays handsome monthly divi- dends uninterruptedly, it has about exhausted all the valuable ore in its mine at the present depth, and is working up mainly the poorer ore that it re- jected in its first progress through the vein. The company is now making an important experiment to find richer ore at a lower depth; and by means of a tunnel, started half a mile off down the hill, and a shaft one thousand feet deep, will soon open the mine that distance down. The future fortunes of the company hang mainly upon the result of this enterprise. Not only, indeed, that of the Gould & Curry, but of most of the enterprises upon the Corn- stock Ledge. Many of them have reached, or seem to be reaching, a like point of exhaustion with the Gould & Curry, and are either making a similar ex- periment, or are awaiting the results of this. The promises of a successful finding are certainly quite encouraging, and they are strengthened by the re- cent success of some small experiments in the same direction on distant parts of the ledge, which seem to indicate improved ore at the greater depths. ^^ LiJK^P i M li Mf" 11 1 150 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. The Ophir Company is another of the mammoth enterprises. That, too, has taken out twelve niiU lions of bullion, but the stockholders have not got much as their share, in consequence of extravagant and fickle management, and experiments that proved expensive failures. The Savage Company, owning another large and successful mine, has taken out six millions bullion. That part of the Comstock Ledge lying on Gold Hill is divided up into smaller properties, such as onq hundred and two hundred feet, and one as low as ten feet, measuring on the surface ; and these have been worked generally to better advantage than the sections in Virginia. The Empire Company's claim has sold as high as eighteen thousand dollars per foot, the highest price ever obtained for any mine here ; -but it has grown less profitable and inter- rupted its dividends since, and has fallen to from three thousand to four thousand dollars a foot. This company never took any money from its stockholders, and in only one month through its operations of some years has it failed to pay ex- penses. Another successful and now popular com- pany in Gold Hill is the Yellow Jacket, which has taken out about two millions of bullion, and paid its stockholders three hundred and thirty thousand aoUars, or thirty-five thousand dollars more than all their assessments. But among its heavy expendi- tures, which suggests one cause of the ruin of many of these mining companies, is an item of two hun- dred and seventy thousand dollars for "legal ser- vices and quieting title." I tio thr anr pr( of thi toi foi of re pe fir mi nc ti( y» of in m dc ar P' b( bi w G d( s» fc a 01 .... ] KENT. er of the mammoth en out twelve miU aiders have not got irkcc of extravagant Timcnts that proved i Company, owning line, has taken out ,edgc lying on Gold aperties, such as onq , and one as low as Lce ; and these have advantage than thq ire Company's claim housand dollars per tained for any mine )rofitable and inter- 1 has fallen to from and dollars a foot, ly money from its month through its it failed to pay ex- id now popular com- w Jacket, which has bullion, and paid its ind thirty thousand lollars more than all J its heavy expendi- ! of the ruin of many an item of two hun- lUars for "legal ser- T COST AND PROFIT OF THE VIRGINIA ORES. 151 The Comstock Ledge ore is, with small excep- tions, much more simple in its combinations than that at Austin, and requires only to be crushed and amalgamated to extract the bullion. These two processes will produce from sixty to eighty per cent, of all the precious metal. It is also less rich than the Austin ore ; fifty dollars is a good average per ton, and is about what the Gould & Curry claims for what it works of its own ore. But the average of all the mines is even less than that ; one mine reports an average yield for the year of but $30.26 per ton ; and the product of the whole ledge for the first three months of the present year is given to me as about one hundred thousand tons, yielding nearly four millions dollars, and averaging a frac- tion less than forty dollars To meet this lower yield per ton, however, is a greatly decreased cost of working the ore, which does not need the roast- ing or smelting process, and the whole expense of mining and reducing does not exceed twenty-five dollars a ton, and is even brought as low as eighteen and twenty dollars by the Gould & Curry com- pany. The probability is that even this cost may be much reduced, and that ore which will yield but ten and fifteen dollars to the ton can soon be worked with profit. A choice selection of the Gould & Curry ore, such as promises one thousand dollars a ton or over, — for there are streaks of such in all the mines, — is sent to Swanzey, Wales, for working ; — this amounts to say fifty tons a year ; a next lower quality, which will yield two hundred or three hundred dollars a ton, and amounts to some 152 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. fifty or sixty tons a month, is sent over into the nci|;hboring valley of Washoe to be treated by the Freiburg process, which includes the roasting, and is the same as is necessary for all the Reese River ores. The balance or bulk of the product is treated at their own mill, which disposes of about one hun- dred tons a day, or, if there is an excess, as there often is, it is worked at some neighboring custom mills. There are, in all, seven tjj-sevcn quartz mills working on ore from the Comstock Ledge, twvMity- two of which are connected with mines, and fifty- five are custom mdis. They are located in four different counties, only about half being in tho same county with the mines whose ores they crush. Fifty-four of them are run by steam, twelve by water, and eleven by water and steam combined. They have in all one thousand and nineteen stamps, and their capacity is one thousand eight hundred and forty-two tons daily, which is only about two- thirds employed now. The mines have been run- ning down in daily production, from one thousand six hundred and forty tons last October to one thou- sand in June, but they are now increasing again ; and if the present search for paying ore at lower depths in the leading mines is realized, it will speedily go up to a higher point than it ever before reached. The present product of the whole State is probably nearly twenty millions dollars a year, of which Austin is sending forward a million and a quarter, and Virginia and Gold Hill fifteen to six- teen millions. Though the bullion, as perfected I .^ 1 INENT. sent over into the o be treated by the :s the roasthig, and all the Reese River le prf)dnct is treated s of about one luin- an excess, as there leighboring custom iCVCM quartz mills ock Ledge, tw<Mity- th mines, and fifty- xre located in four half being in the :)se ores they crush. ' steam, twelve by d steam combined, id nineteen stamps, jund eight hundred is only about two- nes have been run- from one thousand )ctober to one thou- r increasing again ; aying ore at lower is realized, it will than it ever before of the whole State ons dollars a year, 'ard a million and a Hill fifteen to six- illion, as perfected ipBwiipi p ii; CONCLUSIONS AS TO NEVADA MINES. 155 silver and gold, silver being the predominating and most available metal. 2. In spite of the scarcity of wood and water, and the high cost of labor and food, consequent upon the great distance from supplies, and the lack of railroad communication, the extraction of these metals will pay generou»ly for the wise, careful, hon- est and persevering employment of capital and labor. 3. TheComstock Ledge in Virginia and its neigh- borhood is being fiiUy developed, and offers no op- portunities for new enterprises; though as Pacific capital is not satisfied with less than fifty or seventy- five per cent, per annum, and eastern is happy with twenty-five, purchases of some of its mines, or of interests in them, might be favorably effected from the latter quarter without the risk of new enter- prises. But those who undertake such purcJiases, or indeed any investments in this quarter, must not think to find these people out here wanting in sharp- ness at a bargain. Wall street is easily out-man- aged by Montgomery street, and an old miner, who is generally a traditional Yankee with large im- provements, will fool a dozen spectacled professors from your colleges in a single day. The latter sort of people are, indeed, at a great discount in this region, as all the rules of science with which they come equipped, are outraged and defied by the lo- cation and combination of ores, rocks, oils and soils on this side of the Rocky Mountains. 4. The mines of the Reese River district (Aus- tin, &c.,) though of narrow veins, offer a very prom- ising field for new enterprises. They are richer, I h III ! !.i'i 1 56 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. and seem to be more certain to hold out tbun those of the Comstock Ledge ; though in the matter of continuance they need yet further testing. But no such enterprise should be entered upon without first sending an intelhgent agent out to examine the condition of things, the location of the mines, their improvements and promises ; and, if not him- self a miner, he should call to his aid here one of that class upon whom he can rely for experience and integrity. 5. Beginners in the business should not be in haste to buy or erect mills. There is a superabun- dance to-day of that sort of property on the Pacific Coast. Those at Virginia and its neighborhood arc not worth what they cost (six millions) by at least twenty-five or thirty per cent. ; and stamps and en- gines^can probably be bought cheaper on this Coast than they can be bought in New York and shipped around or across the mountains. The first business is to work the mine and get out the ore, which can be crushed at the custom mills, already or soon to be plenty, in the neighborhood of all the mining centers ; and then measuring the profits thus real- ized, and finding them sure and reliable, the mana- gers can decide whether it is best to extend opera- tions with them, by buying and -working more mines or by running their own mills. 6. Everything depends upon an intelligent and faithful superintendent. I meet many such here, experienced Californians, Englishmen from the Mex- ican mines, Germans of both practice and theory at home. New York and Boston merchants. Fore- me anc anc of offe the an ital fou in i sf^e ifoi mc goi an( dit pai pri on ca] yo idc sis thi mc as! yo ne dif Cc 'lENT. old out tbun those I in the matter of r testing. But no red upon without it out to examine tion of the mines, i ; and, if not him- is aid here one of ely for experience should not be in re is a superabun- erty on the Pacific neighborhood are illions) by at least nd stamps and en- ;aper on this Coast York and shipped The first business the ore, which can already or soon to of all the mining e profits thus real- reliable, the mana- t to extend opera- arking more mines an intelligent and many such here, men from the Mex- actice and theory nerchants. Fore- HINTS TO CAPITALISTS. 157 men of mills and mines, first promoted from pick and shovel, are good material for such positions, and are gaining them. The miners as a class are of a higher grade than eastern laborers, and they offer many individuals fit for the upper places in the business. I was impressed with the wisdom of an organization which a party of Rhode Island cap- italists had made in Colorado. They combined four or five different mines and mills, each distinct in its affairs, under the general management or over- s^ership of an experienced scientific miner from Cal- ifornia, and sent along with him from home a com- mon treasurer and accountant. In this way they got the benefit of the best talent and experience, and the most reliable guardianship over the expen- ditures, without making the cost thereof too heavy. 7. Do not make the capital of your mining com- pany out of all proportion to the cost of the enter- prise. Avoid putting up a property, that has cost one hundred thousand dollars and needs a working capital of as much more, to two millions, because you may hope sometime to pay a ten per cent, div- idend on such a sum. And then, again, do not in- sist on having a dividend at the end of the first thirty days, unless you are ready to pay an assess- ment at the beginning thereof to meet it. 8. When somebody offers you a mine, whose ore assays one thousand or ten thousand dollars a ton, you need not necessarily disbelieve him, but do not necessarily conclude that all its ore, for an indefinite distance into the earth, is of equal value. The Com stock Ledge was opened with a chunk that 158 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. ill yielded twenty thousand to thirty thousana dollars per ton, or at that rate ; but as I have told you, the mines on that ledge that are paying at all, do not average forty dollars from their ore. Every day new discoj/eries are being made, south and north, in the State, of lodes whose surface ore pays, according to report, any 'amount this side of one hundred thou- sand dollars a ton! yet it does not follow that the mine below it will even pay for working. For these are among the doubtful things that are very uncer- tain in their progress. Even the poorest mines have their streaks and chunks of rich ore ; do not, therefore, judge by a single fist-full nor by an assay ; but invest your money only after you have ascer- tained how much your mine will practically work out, cart-load by cart-load, without cuUirtg. 9. And if you have neither time nor money enough, nor disposition, perhaps, to go largely into these mining enterprises, and follow their manage- ment intelligently, but still would like to malje some small ventures to fortune in this direction, seek out some company that are in or going into the busi- ness, on these principles, and that have got a rea- sonably sure thing of it, and make your investment with them ; and then be content with twenty-five per cent, return for your money. If it ) tlda more, give it away in charity, — if less, or even nothing, don't swear nor mention it to your wife. 10. And finally, — though the subject, like the veins, is inexhaustible, — if you read so far as this, and make profitable use of these suggestions, " re- member the printer," when the dividends come in. TI isl sa th th C m to th sa P< P' ar R ri S gi bi i-i I i NENT. ty thousana dollars [ have told you, the aying at all, do not re. Every day new :h and north, in the 3 pays, according to one hundred thou- not follow that the 'orking. For these hat are very uncer- the poorest mines f rich ore ; do not, ill nor by an assay ; er you have ascer- ill practically work )ut cullirfg. : time nor money 5, to go largely into )llow their manage- 1 like to malje some direction, seek out oing into the busi- tiat have got a rea- <e your investment It with twenty-five If it ) -ilds more, i, or even nothing, ur wife. ; subject, like the read so far as this, e suggestions, " re- iividends come in. LETTER XVI. THE CONTINE>rr ACROSS: THE RIDE OVER THE SIERRAS. San Francisco, July 4 AcR^s the Continent! The Great Ride is fin- ished. Fifteen hundred miles of railroad, two thou- sand of staging, again sixty miles of railway, and then one hundred and fifty miles by steamboat down the Sacramento River, and the goal is reached, the Continent is spanned. Seven weeks of steady jour- neying, within hail of a single parallel line from east to west, and still the Republic ! Still the old flag,— the town is gay with its. beauty to-day, — still the same Fourth of July ; — better than all, still the same people, with hearts aglow with the same loyalty and pride in the American Union, and the same purpose and the same faith for its future. Greater the wonder grows at the extent of the Republic ; but larger still our wonder at the myste- rious but unmistakable homogeneity of its people. San Francisco, looking westward to the Orient for greatness, cooling its Fummer heats with Pacific breezes, thinks the same thoughts, breathes the same patriotism, burns with the same desires that J: l60 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. inspire New York and Boston, whose outlook is eastward, and which seem to borrow their civiliza- tion with their commerce from Europe. Sacra- mento talks as you do in Springfield; Nevada, oyer the mountains, almost out of the world, an- ticipates New England in her judgments, and makes up her verdict, while those close to the " Hub of the Universe " are looking over the testimony. It is this that is the greatest thing about our coun, try ; that makes it the wonder of nations, the mar- vel of history, — the unity of its people in ideas and purpose; their quick assimilation of all emigra- tion, — come it so far or so various ; their simul- taneous and similar currents of thought, their spon- taneous, concurrent formation and utterance of a united Public Opinion. This is more than extent of territory, more than wealth of resource, more than beauty of landscape, more than variety of cli- mate and productions, more than maivelous mate- ' al development, more than cosmopolitan popula- tions, because it exists in spite of them, and con- quers them all by its subtle electricity. It is very interesting, indeed, to stand amid this civilization of half a generation ; to see towns that were not in 1850, now wearing an old and almost decaying air ; to walk up and down the close built streets of this metropolis, and doubt whether they look most like Paris or New York, Brussels or Turin ; to count the ocean steamer in the bay, or passing out through the narrow crack in the coast hills beautifully called the Golden Gate, and wo'nder as you finish your fingers where they all came froni '■I^ISHWSWIPW***'" Ti tit niv sei an( del to ev( sh( thi as ho ea: to ce; th( ag Al <:ei -il /•ij wi '■\l tri pc th m w" til to NENT. rHii; ( n'lLizATiON of the pacific coast. i6: whose outlook is )rrow their civiliza- 1 Europe. Sacm- ringfield; Nevada, of the world, an- gments, and makes to the " Hub of the testimony, ing about our coun, f nations, the mar- jeople in ideas and on of all emigra- ious ; thei^ simul- hought, their spon- ind utterance of a more than extent of resourcf-, more than variety of cli- 11 marvelous mate- imopolitan popula- of them, and con- ricity. o stand amid this to see towns that m old and almost wn the close built 5ubt whether they Vork, Brussels or lei in the bay, or crack m the coast Gate, and wonder hey all came from airl ar<; ,oing to; to find an agriculture richer and n: JO ', i/ious than that of Illinois; to feast the senbes on a horticulture that marries the temperate and torrid zones, and makes of every yard and gar- den and orchard one immense eastern green-house ; to observe a commerce and an industry that supply every comfort, minister to every taste and fill the shops with every article of convenience and luxury that New York or Paris can boast of, and at prices as cheap as those of the fornier city to-day ; to find homes more luxurious than are often seen in the eastern States and to be challenged unsuccessfully to name the city whose ladies dress more magnifi- cently than those of San Francisco. None of this surjmses me. I had large ideas of the Pacific Coast and its development ; and I long ago gave up being surprised at any victories of the American mind and hand o' er raw American mat- ter. Still, Nevada and Calirorna, with towns and ^itie» of two to fifteen years' gro'/th, yet tD-day all /ill-armed in the elements of civilizai 'on, wanton with the Inxi'.ries of the senses, rich in the social .menities. supplied with churches and schools and •ibraries, fven affecting high art, arew nrlcrrul illus- trations of the /apidity and ear.e with which our people organize societ} and State, and surround themsi-Ves with all the comforts an<I Uixuries of metropolitan life. The history of the world else- where offers no parallels to these. At prese'it, and in comparison with the flush times of their first creative }ears, the States and towns of the Pacific Coast are but slow'y grow- il J 162 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. ' pt': ing, and business is dull. Many mining towns are indeed falling back, if not approaching desertion. Founded on temporary interests,— the sands ot' their streams all washed out, they are deserted for fresher fields. But new interests, as agriculture and manu- factures, and new and closer modes of extracting their mineral wealth will sooner or later restore most of these ; in some instances are already beginning to do so. The general comparative dullness is but a natural and temporary reaction from a hot and stimulated development. Our great war and its in- terests have occupied the Nation's life and thought, and centered it in the East, absorbing its capital and offering rare opportunities, also, for new indus- tries and speculations. California, was too far away to share in this stimulus ; and by rejecting the na- tional currency that was one of its elements, she has even denied herself the benefits of its overflow. But by drouth in her agriculture, by losses in many of her mining operations, by the cessation of the heavy tide of emigration, and by the narrow policy of her bankers and capitalists, she has been gather- ing valuable lessons of experience ; she has learned both how to farm and mine ; she has come to appre- ciate her great wants of capital and labor ; and she is in fine condition to receive and accept the new stimulus, that is already drawing out of her own trials a more economical and intelligent prosperity, and bringing in a new tide of means and men from the East. Farmers may be poor; country mer- chants may be bankrupt ; gambling may he at a low ebb in the mining towns ; labor comparatively low, ani bn the be du du in ble is wi an an sti er pe se O at S ti in C ai o P P r ii t -_J riNENT. ny mining towns are proaching desertion. 3, — the sands of their e deserted for fresher jriculture and manu- modes of extracting or later restore most •e already beginning ative dullness is but :ion from a hot and great war and its in- )n's life and thought, .bsorbing its capital also, for new indus- nia.was too far away by rejecting the na- of its elements, she lefits of its overflow, e, by losses in many the cessation of the )y the narrow policy she has been gather- ice ; she has learned e has come to appre- and labor; and she and accept the new ing out of her own itelligent prosperity, leans and men from poor; country mer- ging may ])e at a low - comparatively low, THE NEVADA SIDE OF THE SIERRAS. 163 and pan washings unremunerative ; San Francisco brokers and bankers may, as is charged, have sucked the life out of the interior ;— here, indeed, may rents be falling and houses unoccupied : but the real in- dustries of the Pacific Coast were never more pro- ductive and promising than now,— never so miich, in any previous year, of hay and grain ; of vegeta- bles and fruit, of gold and silver brought out of the ground, as is and will be in this year of 1865. This is the test and promise of prosperity ; and this year will date a renewal of life and growth to California and its adjacent States,— not so hot and feverish and rabid as that of '49 and '50 and '59 and '60, but strong enough to satisfy a just ar bition, and sure enough to encourage permanent investments and permanent citizenship,— the real foundations and security of a State. But to go back on the record of our journey: Our last day in Nevada was passed among its pleas- antest and richest valleys, under the shadows of the Sierra Nevada mountains, and rejoicing in the fer- tilizing streams from their springs and snows. Here, in the valleys of the Truckee, the Washoe, and the Carson, is the garden of the State ; here were a few agricultural settlers, fifteen and twenty years ago, colonists from Utah, to which all this region was originally attached. Now, the Mormons are dis- placed by a more vigorous and varied populatioi^ prosperous with farming, with lumbering among the rich pines of the Sierras, and with quartz mills, seek- ing proximity here to wood and water, ^nd fed by the mines over the hills in Virginia and Gold HilL i'V'j ... / Mi ACROSS THE CONTINENT. Skirting .the hill-sides from Virginia at early morning, on a capital toll road, that runs from mountain to mountain on a common level, we breakfasted at Steamboat Springs, where the phe- nomenon of an immense natural tea-kettle is in op- eration. For a mile or more along a little stream, underneath a thin crust of earth, water immeasura- ble is seething and boiling, and occasionally break- ing through in columns of stejim and in bubbling spouts and streams,— too hot to bear the hand in ; — the waste drawn off to a neighboring bath-house . where chronic rheumatisms and blood a|ections arc; successfully treated, or tempering the cool river be- low. The boiling springs are flavored with sulphur and soda, and are similar to the more celebrated Geysers in California. In the winter the vapor fills the valley, and from this and the rumbling, bubbling noise of the seething waters, comes the name of Steamboat Springs. Down the valleys we drove to Washoe Village and Lake,— here speeches and lunch, — and then farther on to Carson City, the capital of the young State, where the inevitable brass band, a militia company of twelvr privates, "and nary two alike," more speeches and a dinner from Governor Blaisdell were the programme. Here we confronted the long-looked-for, the even long-seen Sierra Nevadas, the Andes of North America, the distinctive range of our Pacific States, fountain of their streams, source and bearer of their mineral wealth, chief element and parent of tboir beauty of landscape, and replenisher of their f^r- tilitv of soil. To us, too, long on the desert plaiA .J. :iNENT. J Virginia at early •ad, that runs from common level, we ngs, where the phe- .1 tea-kettle is in op- long a little stream, h, water immeasura- occasionally break- }m and in bubbling o bear the hand in ; ;hboring bath-house blood al^ections arc; ig the cool river be- avored with sulphur he more celebrated irinter the vapor fills rumbling, bubbling :omes the name of e valley, we drove -here speeches and J Carson City, the lere the inevitable of twelvf privates, eches and a dinner le programme, looked-for, the even Andes of North f our Pacific States, and bearer of their nd parent of tboir lisher of their f;r- )n the desert plaiA THE RIDE OVER THE SIERRAS. i6s and the barren mountain,— sad-eyed with weeks away from forests and sparkling waters, and the verdure of grass and vines and flowers, — they of- fered indeed the golden pathway to the Golden Gate of the Pacific. The ride over the mountains, down their western valleys, on to the ocean, was a succession of de- lights and sv.rprises. The surging and souring of the wind among the tall pines of the Sierras came like sweetest music, laden with memories of home and friends and youth. Brass bands begone, operas avaunt ! in such presence as we found ourselves on the mouBtain top of a moonlight night, by the banks of Lake T&hoe, among forests to which the largest of New England are but pigmies, lying and lir^tening by the water to the coming of the Pacific breeze and its delicate play upon the high tree-tops. All human music was but sound and fury signifying nothing, bcfpre such harmonies of high nature. The pines of these mountains arc indeed mon- sters,— three, four, five feet through, and running up to heaven for light, straight and clear as an arrow by the hundred feet,— suggestive forerunners oU/w "big trees" of Calaveras ar.d Mariposa, that we are yet to see. Fich green-yellow mosses cling to many a trunk ; and firs and balsams fill up the vacant spots between the kingly pines ; while laugh- ing waters sport lustily before our unaccustomed eyes, among the rocks in the deep ravines, along and far below the road on which our horses gallop up hill and down at a fearfu' pace. The initial trip of a little steamer upon Lake i66 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. Tahoe (formerly Lake Biglcr) was amorg the nov- eltics of our mountain experience. This is one of the beautiful lakes of the world, richly ranking with those of Scotland and Swiss-Italy, and destined to arouse as wide enthusiasm. It is located up among the mountains, itself six thousand five hundred feet high, overlooked by snow-capped peaks, bordered by luscious forests ; stretches wide for eight to four- teen miles in extent, with waters clear and rare al- most as air,— so rare, indeed, that not even a sheet of paper can float, but quickly sinks, and swimming is nearly impossible ; and abounds in trout :--where, indeed, are more elements of lake beauty, and at- traction ? Already, though far from heavy popula- tions, it has its mountain and lake hotel, and draws many summer visitors from California and Nevada. From Lake Tahoe to Placerville, the first consid- erable town in California, is seventy-five miles of well-graded road, up to the mountain summits, a:,d down on the western side ; and the drive over it, made in less than seven hours, even surpassed any that had gone before in rapidity and brilliancy of execution. With six horses, fresh and fast, we swept up the hill at a trot, and rolled down again at their sharpest gallop, turning abrupt corners without a pull-up, twisting among and by the loaded teams of freight toiling over into Nevada, and run- ning along the edge of high precipices, all as deftly as the skater flies or the steam car runs ; though for many a moment we held our fainting breath at what seemed great risks or dare-devil performances. The road is excellent, hard and macadamized, con- ENT. s among the nov- l:. This is one of ichly ranking with yr, and destined to located up among I five hundred feet 1 peaks, bordered ie for eight to four- clear and rare al- t not even a sheet iks, and swimming 3 in trout : — where, kc beauty, and at- rom heavy popula- e hotel, and draws "ornia and Nevada, le, the first consid- renty-five miles of itain summits, a:,d the drive over it, iven surpassed any yr and brilliancy of resh and fast, we rolled down again ig abrupt corners ; and by the loaded D Nevada, and run- cipices, all as deftly I car runs; though r fainting breath at devil performances, macadamized, con- THE SCENERY OF THE SIERRA.S. 167 structed by private enterprise and imposing heavy tolls, and tlicrefore far diftc-rent from that, whose rough remains and steep passages are occasionally met on the mountain side, over which Mr. Greeley made his famous ride six years ago. lUit there is no stage-riding, no stage-driving, left in the States, — I doubt if there ever was any, — at all comparable to this in perfection of discipline, in celerity and comfort, and in manipulation of the reins. Mr. Colfax well said, in one of his speeches, that as it was said to require more talent to cross j^roadway than to be a justice of the peace in the country, so he was sure much more was necessary to drive a stage down the Sierras as we were driven, than to be a member of Congress. For a week, at least, we worshiped our knights of the whip. Think, too, of a stage-road one hundred miles long, from Carson to Placerville, watered as city streets are watered, to lay the dust for the traveler ! Yet this luxury is performed through nearly the entire route, day by day, all the summer season. All over the Sierras in our road, the scenery is full of various beauty ; some of its features I have mentioned ; but another chief one was the high walls of rock, rising abruptly and perpendicularly from the valley for many hundreds of feet. Many a rich boulder, anon a hill, and a frequent mountain peak of pure rock, thousands of feet high, like pyr- amids of Egypt, are seen along the passage. The . whole scenery of the Sierras is more like that of the Alps than any other in America, and has even features of surpassing attraction. i I i;i |i i68 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. At riaccrville, among vineyards and orchards and flower ^^ardens, a night; three speeches from Speaker Colfax, and a grand midnight dinner ; — at Sacramento, sixty miles hence by a railroad, which is seeking the mountains, — a superb breakfast and two speeches and more roses, — and thence by steamboat, large and elegant as the best of Sound and North River boats, and all built in San Fran- cisco, through wide grain fields, yellow with harvest and sun, we came to refreshing halt in the luxurious halls of the Occidental Hotel, of famous Leland creation and supervision, late on the last Saturday night. My memory is crowded with observations in Cal- ifornia and Nevada, yet to be compacted for your reading ; but the journey cann'^' wait now for them. My steps move faster than m^ -n. Next Mon- day,— after a crowded ^-cek ot ght-seeing and hospitality in San Francisco and vicinity,— we re- trace our steps as far as the mountains on a more northern route, and thence into the most interesting gold-quartz mining region, and on along the valleys on the eastern slope of the Sierras north to Oregon, and back, through British Columbia, and by the ocean, the first of August. :INENT. wmmmmmmm yards and orchards three speeches from lidnight dinner ; — at by a raihoad, which iupcrb breakfast and es, — and thence by IS the best of Sound II built in San Fran- i, yellow with harvest ; halt in the luxurious 1, of famous Leland on the last Saturday observations in Cal- compacted for your r ■: wait now for them. a) : n. Next Mon- ot «;ht-seeing and and vicinity, — we re- mountains on a more 3 the most interesting i on along the valleys rras north to Oregon, olumbia, and by the IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) /. 1.0 I.I Uit2^ |2.5 |5o *^~ lll9Bi kJUi. 1.8 1 1.25 ||U IIIIJ4 ^ 6" — — ► J," HiotDgraphic Sdences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y, 14580 (716) 872-4503 ,\ .^\^ •N? r\ '<h CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CIHIVI/ICMH Collection de microfiches. Canadian institute for Historical Microreproductlons / Institut Canadian de microreproductions historlques LETTER XVir. OVERLAND TO OREGON. Portland, Oregon, July 20. I WAS prepared for California. But Oregon is more of a revelation. It has rarer natural beauties, richer resources, a larger development, and a more promising future than I had learned of The dazzle of gold and silver has made California more con- spicuous in eastern eyes. Our visit here has there- fore had the alwa- t. delicious element of unexpected- ness in its pleasures. There was some rebellious flesh among us, when we were told that to see Ore- gon we must take another week of day and night stage riding ; much of it on rough mountain roads, and in a "mud wagon" at that. We thought to have been through with that sort of travel. But no week's riding has given us greater or richer va- riety of experience; more beauty of landscape; more revelation of knowledge ; more pleasure and less pain, than this one up through northern Cali- fornia and middle Oregon, between the coast moun- tains and the Sierra Nevadas. Our point of departure was Sacramento, and the distance to Portland from there is six hundred and ■ ,70 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. fifty miles, due north. Two short bits of railroad put us forward in the Sacramento valley about fifty miles; at OroviUe we began the stage nde proper up still for another one hundred miles in the broad and generally rich and beautiful valley of the Sac- ramento and its tributaries.-sometimes lollmg m waves of earth, then flat and wide as flattest and widest of Illinois prairies, often treeless and unculti- vated, though not uncultivatable ; and agaui charm- ing with old oak groves, and fruitful with gram fields and orchards, that yield an increase unknown m all eastern or western valleys. At Chico, we took sup- per with General Bidwell, one of the pioneers of the Pacific Coast, and one of the new members of Congress from California. Jilted by a young wo- man who chose a lover with more acres, he turned rover, and came out here from Missouri as early as 1 841 as one of a secret filibustering party, that in- tended to get up a revolution against Mexico, then ~ the parent of this region, and join California to the then lone star republic of Texas. The scheme was fruitless, but General Bidwell became the owner of one of the famous Spanish grants of land m the richest part of this valley, and now has a farm o. twenty thousand of its acres, of which one thou- sand eight hundred are under cultivation. His crop of wheat, in 1863, was thirty-six thousand bushels, from nine hundred acres of land, or at tae average rate of forty bushels to the acre. This is a poorer grain year, and his wheat will average but thirty bushels per acre. The general average of the val- ley is twenty-five bushels. Of barley and oats, h.s NENT. ort bits of railroad to valley about fifty c stage ride proper, I miles in the broad il valley of the Sac- lometimes lulling in wide as flattest and treeless and unculti- e ; and again charm- itful with grain fields rease unknown in all t Chico, we took sup- ; of the pioneers of the new members of Ited by a young wo- nore acres, he turned I Missouri as early as jtering party, that in- against Mexico, then join California to the :as. The scheme was became the owner of grants of land in the id now has a farm oi s, of which one thou- cultivation. His crop -six thousand bushels, and, or at the average icre. This is a poorer nil average but thirty ral average of the val- Of barley and oats, hiS JOHN brown's family. 171 other principal crops, he usually harvests fifty bush- els to the acre. His garden and orchard cover one hundred acres. A large flouring mill is among his concerns, and its product is the favorite brand of the State. Add to these illustrative facts of his wealth, and of the beauty and productiveness of the country, that General Bidwell still seems a young man, is fresh and handsome and of winning manners, — a bachelor, and intends to keep house in Washington during his congressional term, and do I not equally interest farmers, statisticians and the ladies of our capital's society? On through a like productive country, crossing streams whose banks are lined with an almost trop- ical growth of trees and vines, along roads bordered with fences and trees, by farms and orchards rich in grains and fruits, we make our first night ride, passing in the gray morning the prosperous little town of Red Blufls, which is noteworthy as the head of navigation on the Sacramento River, — some three hundred miles from its mouth, — and so a cen- tral point of commerce for all northern California and southern Oregon, and as the present home of the widow and daughters of the immortal John Brown, They straggled in here, weary and poor, from their overland journey, but found most hospit- able greeting from the citizens and have secured a permanent home. A subscription among the Cali- fornians generally will give them soon a nice cot- tage ; Mrs. Brown earns both love and support as a successful nurse and doctor, particularly for chil- dren ; her two older daughters are teachers in the ^•i i ,72 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. public schools; and the younger one is herself a ^"now the valley grows narrow, the mountains east and west chassez across and in among each other, and for the remaining two hundred miles of Cali- fornia, and the first two hundred of Oregon, we are winding among the hills and foUowmg up and down narrow valleys, first of tributaries of the Sacramento, and then of minor though earnest streams,-Trinity, Klamath, Rogue and Umpqua,- that steal their way, among the now scattered and m:nding ranges of coast and Sierra Nevada, west to the ocean. . . Shasta a'nd Yreka are the two remainmg villages of importance in California, with perhaps fifteen hundred inhabitants each. Born of rich p acer gold diggings in neighboring valleys and gulches, but bereft of half of their former population by the discovery of more tem; :ing fields elsewhere, and the inherent migratory character of gold seekers they present a sad array of unoccupied stores and houses, like, indeed, to nearly every other of the m- terior mining towns of California. Their second reactionary stage now seems beginning..however ; a more careful and intelligent working of the gold sands and banks proves them still profitable.-m some cases richly so; the Chinese are coming m to work over the neglected courses, satisfied with smaller returns than the whites; and best of all. agriculture, hitherto despised, is asserting its legiti- mate place as the base of all true and steady pros- perity The valleys, chough small, are frmtful, and ern INENT. ;er one is herself a , the mountains east I among each other, idred miles of Cali- Ired of Oregon, we id following up and tributaries of the nor though earnest igue and Umpqua, — e now scattered and Sierra Nevada, west vo remaining villages with perhaps fifteen irn of rich placer gold ;ys and gulches, but r population by the fields elsewhere, and cter of gold seekers, noccupied stores and every other of the in- ibrnia. Their second . beginning,«'however; t working of the gold m still profitable,— in :hinese are coming in courses, satisfied with lites; and best of all, ., is asserting its legiti- true and steady pros- small, are fruitful, and MOUNT SHASTA. 1 73 many of the hill-sides are equally rich for grain and fruit. These hills of northern California and south- ern Oregon seem, indeed, the true home of apple, pear and grape, and are sure to have a large place in the future fruit-growing and wine-making pros- perity of the Pacific Coast. Beyond Shasta, just out of the valley, we stopped to dine at a most inviting hotel, amid garden and orchard of great fruitfulness, which I found to be " The Tower House," and the proprietor Mr. Levi H. Tower, whom you Springfield people of fifteen and twenty years' residence will i-emember as a prominent armorer, foreman of the Eagle Engine Company, and a popular young man, up to 1849, when he cast in his fortunes with the first emi- gration to California. After years of the ups and downs that belong to nearly every experience oa this Coast, he has become prosperous, and grown stout, but keeps his Springfield memories green, and is yet a bachelor. Two of his sisters and a brother-in-law live upon his place. He owns a toll- road over the mountain, and his orchard, only five years old, produced last year three thousand bushels of peaches, one thousand five hundred bushels of apples, and grapes by the ton, for which he finds market among the miners in the mountains around, and in the villages north and south. Along here, individual mountains assumed a rare . majesty ; snow peaks were visible, ten thousand and eleven thousand feet high ; and soon, too, Mcmnt Shasta, monarch of the Sierras in northern Cali- fornia, reared its lofty crown of white, conspicuous 174 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. amonK hills of five thousand and six thousand feet, both for its vast fields of snow, its perfect shape, a d its hight of fourteen thousand four hundred feet above the sea iovel. Wc saw it from various points nnd all sides, and everywhere it was truly a King of the Mountains, and is entitled to rank among the first dozen mountain peaks of the world. Jacksonville was the first conspicuous town in Oregon, and showed obvious first-cousinship to Yr^ka and Shasta, But its neighboring gold dig- eings made better report; many of the five hund- red men engaged upon them in the county were very prosperous, and all were making good wages; promising quartz mines were also discovered ; and we found, everywhere almost in the.c mountam counties of northern California and southern O e- goa, gathering evidences of much gold yet un- crushed or undug. that would still form the basi . with cheaper and more abundant labor and capital, of a large population and a new material growth for this region. The northern county of Cahforma (Siskiyou) counts no fewer than two thousand Chi- nese among its r^..^^ion. and of these, eleven hundred are engaged in gold digS^'^g; ^^^^J^^.^^ as foreigners the State gathers a tax of four dollars Tmon^h each, or from fifty thousand to sixty thou- sand dollars a year. That they pay this enormous r'ute and stUl keep at w.. shows well enough that it pays them to wash aad re-wash the golden sands of these valleys. ,•!.»„ The scenery of this region is full of various beauty Of conspicuous single objects. Pilot Knob, a great 1 THE TREES AND THE MISTLETOE. 175 riNENT. id six thousand feet, w, its perfect shape, .usand four hundred i saw it from various yrwhere it was truly a . is entitled to rank in peaks of the world, conspicuous town in IS first-cousinship to neighboring gold dig- any of the five hund- a in the county were ! making good wages ; ; also discovered ; and ist in the^c mountain nia and southern O.-e- ( much gold yet un- !d still form the basis, idant labor and capital, I new material growth rn county of California ;han two thousand Chi- , and of these, eleven )ld digging, from whom lers a tax of four dollars thousand to sixty thou- they pay this enormous r.. shows well enough aad re-wash the golden 1 is full of various beauty, ects, Pilot Knob, a great 1 chunk of bare rock standing on a mountain top, ranks next to Mount Shasta; it must be eight hundred to one thousand feet high in itself, and seen from all quarters, it has been famous as a pilot to the early emigrants in their journey across the mountains. The hills are rich with pine forests, and these grow thicker -anu the trees larger and of greater variety, as also the valleys widen and seem more fertile, as the road progresses into Oregon. Firs rival the pines and grow to similar size, one hundred and two hundred feet high and three to Ive feet in diameter. Farther up in Oregon, about the Columbia River, the fir even dominates, and is the chief timber, and specimens of it are recorded that are twelve feet through and three hundred feet high ! The oak, too, has its victories in the valley.'/, and we nde through groves and parks of it that are indescribably beautiful. That fascinating parasite of British classics, the mistletoe, appears also, and shrouds the branches of the oak with its rich, ten- der green, and feeds on its rugged life. Many an oak had succumbed to the greedy bunch boughs of the mistletoe, that fastened themselves upon it, and despite its beauty and the sentimental reputation it brings to us from British poets, I came to shrink from its touch and sight. More graceful and invit- ing and less absorbing of life, — rather token of death, — was the pendant Spanish moss, hanging gray and sere and sad from the pine branches and trunks, along our way in southern Oregon. The birch, the ash, the spruce, the arbor vitae, and the balsam, all contribute to these forests. f';' 176 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. But they do not rob your Connecticut valley of its precious elms ; to their individual beauty no tree here c'an offer successful rivalry. In aggregates, however, for forests of trees, for size alid beauty of pines and spruces and firs, for amount and quality of timber as timber, and for groves of oaks, there can be no competition in the East to the Sierra Nevadas and the Coast Mountains and their inter- mediate valleys in California and Oregon. They become the perpetual wonder and admiration and ■ enthusiasm of the traveler. The cross valleys of the Rogue and Umpqua rivers present many rich fields for culture. The soil is a gravelly loam, warm and fertile, and more favorable for fruits, especially the grape and the peach, than the more northern valleys of Oregon. But the way to market is long and hard ; and the products of agriculture here must mainly go out to the world on the hoof or in wool. So that the temptation to the farmer is not yet very strong. Yet we found a few rich farms and prosperous gen- tleman farmers. "Joe" Lane, famous iu Oregon politics, lives in one of these valleys; his occupa- tion of public life is gone ; he fell out with a por- tion of his own party, and was put out by the up- rising volume of loyal and anti-slr.very sentiment, wherein he has never shown any sympathy. He was an able but low, coarse and groveling politi- cian. . . A man of mother description and history is Mr. Jesse Applegate, whose fame as an. old pioneer, an honest, intelligent gentleman, incorruptible in thought increasii and we i to see h We did vigorous years, ])2 of the C( right po original upon ou wisest ; ( dcr to fi where, ai conspicu surely ' o the gene not so ir politician another does not to the wa his farm ^ he says, i dear, and so distant vation ani urally, ab unbroken and so m feed upon proved as 8» 1 ■ut valley of its beauty no tree In aggregates, i aTid beauty of unt and quality 5 of oaks, there ,t to the Sierra and their inter- Oregon. They admiration and c and Umpqua r culture. The ertile, and more grape and the lleys of Oregon, d hard ; and the mainly go out to ol. So that the yet very strong. prosperous gen- mous iu Oregon 2ys; his occupa- 1 out with a por- it out by the up- ?.very sentiment, sympathy. He groveling politi- nd history is Mr. an. old pioneer, , incorruptible in JE.SSE APPLEfiATE, A PIONEER. m thought and act, and the maker of good cider, kept increasing as we neared his home in the Umpqua; and we made bold to stop and tell him we had come to sec him and eat our breakfast out of his larder. We did all to our supreme satisfaction, finding a vigorous old man, who had been here twenty-five years, participated largely in the growth and history of the country, and the conversion of its people to right political principles; clear and strong and original in thought and its expression, with views upon our public affairs worthy the heed of our wisest ; every way, indeed, such a man as you won- der to find here in the woods, rejoice to find any- where, and hunger to have in his rightful position, conspicuous in the government. Oregon ought surely ' :, send Jesse Applegate to Washington, and the general testimony is that she would, were he not so implacably hostile to all the helping arts of politician and place-seeker, which is of course only another reason why she should do what she yet does not. Mr. Applegate has sent his three sons to the war, and remains in their place to carry on his farm of two thousand acres. But farming here, he says, is but a cheap, careless process ; labor is so dear, and grain grows so easily, and the market is so distant, that there is no incentive for real culti- vation and care, in the business. Grass grows nat- urally, abundantly ; timothy seed thrown upon the unbroken soil, gives the best of permanent mowing; and so mild are the winters, and so abundant the feed upon hill and plain, that even that is only im- proved as a precaution against exceptional snow. 8* m 178 ACROSS THE COIiTl^i.N^. ThouL^h he feeds cattle by the hundreds and thou- hrh.s now one hundred and twenty-hve rsVhaythathec.^ '%'::Xsrd tnight of rough riding from Jack- soni oL rather'unmilitary roads, bui t some tear ' o by the since famous General Hooker, years ago oy u june-like afternoon, rr LllUha ov^^^ Head of the Wil- re\teViW^^^^^^^^^ valley. «- t^-j;;^ ranges cease their mazy dancmg together, and akc their places cast and west, feeding a river that runs '^iclway north one hundred and twenty-five mde o the Columbia River, and watermg a valley ^1. - gh that length and for fifty miles wide. Fhis is the Willamette River and valley,-the garden of Or - gon,-itself Oregon; that which led emigrants here years before the gold discoveries on the I a- cific Coast; the holder of nearly two-thirds o ah the inhabitants of the State ; the chief source of its present strength and prosperity, and its sure secu- rity for the future ; lifting it above the uncertainties of mining, and giving guaranty of stabihty. intelli- eence and comfort to its people. We were led down into this indeed paradisiacal valley through richest groves of oak ; the same are scattered along the foot hills on either side, or peo- ple the swelling hills that occasionally vary the prairie surfdce of its central lines; while the river suong and free and navigable through the who valley a part of the year, and through the .ow. half at all times, furnishes a deep belt of forest thrniif held I never practi( surfaci stinctJ upon 1 clayey ing mi small { pics a the in chards three also, a agricu and v; exhau! spring nights a limit ripen pears, perfcci ley is often ( The thousa tenth ( not oy can b< an aci -.^s-agj THE WILLAMETTE VALLEY. ;NT. nclrcds and thou- and twonty-tWc igo, but lor which riding from Jack- roads, built some General Hooker, nc-like afternoon, head of the Wil- lerc the mountain together, and take g a river that runs wenty-five miles to ig a valley through wide. This is the :he garden of Ore- ich led emigrants overies on the Pa- ly two-thirds of all e chief source of its ', and its sure secu- ve the uncertainties - of stability, intelli- indeed paradisiacal f oak ; the same are 1 either side, or peo- ccasionally vary the nes ; while the river, e through the whole i through the, lower deep belt of forest 179 through the very middle of the valley. Never be- held I more foscinating theater for rural homes; never seemed more fitly united natural beauty and practical comforts; fertility of soil and variety of surface and production ; never were my bucolic in- stincts more deeply stirred than in this first outlook upon the Willamette valley. The soil is a strong, clayey, vegetable loam, on a hardpan bottom, hold- ing manures firmly, and yielding large crops of the small grains, apples and potatoes. Wheat and ap- ples are the two great crops at present ; much of the improved land being set out with apple or- chards, that come into full bearing in from two to three years after planting. Wool and beef are, also, as in the lower valleys, leading items in the agricultural wealth of the Willamette. The hills and valleys of interior Oregon furnish almost in- exhaustible and continuous pasture grounds. The spring is too cold and wet for peaches ; the summer nights are too cold for corn, though it is grown to a limited degree ; but Isabella and Catawba grapes ripen perfectly ; it is the home of the cherry ; and pears, plums and all the small berries reach high perfection. .The average yield of wheat in the val- ley is twenty-five bushels to the acre ; but fifty is often obtained with careful cultivation. Though this valley supports a population of fifty thousand by agriculture only, probably not one- tenth of its area has yet felt the plow, and certainly not over one-half is under fence. Its best lands can be bought for from five to twenty-five dollars an acre, depending upon improvements, and near- i 1 80 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. ness to villages and river. Only specially 'favoied farms go higher, as some do to fifty and even one hundred dollars an acre. Much of the farmnig is un-'isely done; the farms are generally too large, the original locations being mostly of six hundred and forty acres each ; and the agricultural popula- tion are largely Missourians, Kentuckians and Ten- nesseeans, of that class who are forever moving farther west, and only stop here because there is no beyond but the ocean. The eastern men proper in Oregon, of whom there are indeed many, are mostly in the villages and towns, leaders in trade, and commerce, and manufactures, as well as m the professions. The agriculture of Oregon knows no such draw- back and doubt as the long summer drouths, that hang over that of all the rest of the country west of the Rocky Mountains, and render expensive irrigation a necessity to certainty in culture. Her fertile region,-so made fertile, indeed,-between the Coast Mountains and the Sierras, or the Cas- cades, as the interior range of mountains is called in Oregon, is abundantly supplied with ram the year round. There is enough in summer to ripen the crops, and not too much to interfere with har- vesting; and the winter is one long shower oi six months. The Californians call their northern neighbors the Web Feet ; and from all account there is something too much of rain and mud during the winter season; but the fertility and perfection which its agriculture enjoys in consequence leave the practical side of the joke with the Oregonians. Tli There wcsteri dormar and wa activel) able, w durable summe single averagt the six enty, ai f^rty-fiA the so-( Euge City an tion in we pass lem is t thriving receptic editor Bush, \i large pc on the failing t now hin possess! newspaj migratic ford or; into jus lecially'favoied and even one the farming is rally too large, of six hundred ;ultural popula- kians and Ten- ■orever moving ecause there is ern men proper ieed many, are ;aders in trade, IS well as in the s no such draw- er drouths, that he country west :nder expensive n culture. Her ideed, — between ras, or the Cas- untains is called I with rain the summer to ripen terfere with har- long shower oi II their northern all account there I mud during the ■ and perfection jnsequence leave I the Oregonians. THE TOWNS OF THE WILLAMETTE VALLEY. l8l There no snow in the valleys of middle and western Oregon; only rain and mist deaden the dormant season ; but February is usually a clear and warm month, and the work of the farmer then actively begins. The summers are long and favor- able, with warm days but cool nights,— more en- durable for the human system than New England summers, and kinder for all vegetation, with the single exception, perhaps, of Indian corn. The average temperature of the Willamette valley for the six summer months is from sixty-five to sev- enty, and of the six winter months from forty to f?rty-five degrees. And grass grows through all the so-called winter. Eugene City, Corvallis, Albany, Salem, Oregon City and Portland are the chief centers of popula- tion in the Willamette valley, in the order in which we passed them, coming down to the Columbia. Sa- lem is the State capital, and is a beautifully located, thriving, inland town. Here our party had a state reception ; here I met our old democratic brother editor of Westfield, Massachusetts, Mr. Asahel Bush, who has made a fortune here, and wielded large power in the politics of the State, dethroning on the Douglas breach Joe Lane as senator, but failing to keep progressing in the right direction, is now himself dethroned by the Union and republican possession of the State, and is in retirement from newspaper and business, and meditating eastern migration ; here, too, Mr. Reuben Boies, of Bland- ford origin and Chicopee residence, has grown into just distinction, and is one of the supreme m L_ ,82 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. jadges of the State, but has his present residence in a beautif.^1 farm in one of the neighboring foo - hills, where also he has erected and put in success- fu :peration a woolen mill;-and from here also, we t 'ok steamboat passage, fifty miles, to this town the commercial and business center of the State, half rival to San Francisco itself, and the only other town Indeed, of prominence on the Pacific Coast, hit Ihows signs of steady uninterrupted prosper- ity at this moment. At Oregon City, on our way hither, we paid respect to the original capital of the Territory, inspected a new and extensive woolen mm that cos' seventy-five thousand dollars in gold. Tnd were railroaded around the falls ot the Willam- ette, which, though not a brilliant feature in the natural scene, offer temptations ^"^ ^^most inex- haustible water-power for the manufactures that the agric^^^^^^^^ productions of the State invite and the enterprise of its citizens is already wisely and eafferlv reaching forward to. To [land by far the largest town of Oregon, stands sweetly on the banks of the Willamette, twelve miles before it joins the Columbia River and one hundred and twenty miles from where the clmbia meets the Pacific Ocean. ShiPS -d oce^ . steamers of highest class come readily ^^ther ^om it spreads out a wide navigation by steamboat of the Columbia and its branches, below and above here centers a large and increasing trade, not only for the Willamette valley, but for the mining regions of eastern Oregon and ^aho. Washington Territory on the north, and parts even of British Columbia IT. esent residence eighboring foot- 1 put in success- from here, also, les, to this town, :er of the State, nd the only other \e Pacific Coast, rrupted prosper- City, on our way iginal capital of extensive woolen td dollars in gold, [Is ot the Willam- nt feature in the and almost inex- lanufactures that 2 State invite, and . ilready wisely and town of Oregon, F the Willamette, ; Columbia River, les from where the 1. Ships and ocean jadily hither ; from ti by steamboat of below and above; ing trade, not only the mining regions ashington Territory f British Columbia. PORTLAND AND ITS PEOPLE. 183 Even Salt Lake, too, has taken groceries and dry goods through this channel, and may yet find it ad- vantageous to buy more and continuously ; such are the attained and attainable water communications through the far-extending Columbia. The population of Portland is about seven thou- sand ; they keep Sunday as we do in New England, and as no other population this side of the Mis- souri now does ; and real estate, as you may infer, is quite high, — four hundred dollars a front foot for best lots one hundred feet deep on the main busi- ness street, without the buildings. In religion, the Methodists have the lead, and control an academic school in town and a professed State university at Salem ; the Presbyterians are next with a beautiful church and the most fashionable congregation, and favor a struggling university under Rev. S. H. Marsh, (son of President Marsh of the Vermont university,) located twenty miles off in the valley ; perhaps the Catholics rank third, with a large Sis- ters of Charity establishment and school within the city. Governor Gibbs, the present chief magistrate of the State, resides here, and though a lawyer, owns and runs a successful iron foundry that imports its material from England, though undeveloped iron mines are thick in neighboring hills; — a single daily paper has two thousand five hundred circula- tion, with a weekly edition of three thousand more ; and altogether Portland has the air and the fact of a prosperous, energetic town, with a good deal of eastern leadership and tone to business and society and morals. I" hHi k m LETTER XVIII. THE COLUMBIA RIVER— ITS SCENERY AND ITS COMMERCE. Portland, Oregon, July 23. When an enthusiastic Oregonian told me the Columbia River was the largest of the Continent, and watered a wider section of country than any other, I thought of the St. Lawrence and the Mis- sissippi, and smiled with mild incredulity. But unroll your map, and trace its course into the heart of this north-western interior, through the Cascade Mountains, back into the great basin between them and the Rocky Mountains, and then, by its main branches, stretching up north and winding out through all British Columbia, and south and west into Idaho and over into the bowels of the Rocky Mountains, touching with its fingers all the vast area north of the great desert basin and west of the Rocky Mountains ; then sail with me up and down its mile and a half wide sweep of majestic volume, at the distance of one hundred and fifty miles above its mouth ; see what steamboats already navigate its waters, and the points to which they reach ; and listen to the wide plans of the naviga- tors for in Britis vitals ol practica west at Oregon, gether t Only correctri Columb be anyw miles in or four key to \ interest! erful ri\ of our < Pacific tion anc of the t As y( abroad scenery Andean of all tl stern hi conflict an unus' striven 1 brace, — the othe element l_- THE SCENERY OF THE COLUMBIA. I8S ERY AND ITS Oregon, July 23. 1 told me the the Continent, intry than any £ and the Mis- reduHty. But J into the heart gh the Cascade between them in, by its main i winding out south and west s of the Rocky ;rs all the vast in and west of rith me up and eep of majestic ndred and fifty imboats already to which they i of the naviga- tors for the use of its most distant upper waters, in British Columbia and Idaho, — sapping the very vitals of British dominion in the North-west, and practically tapping the Pacific railroad as it comes west at Salt Lake for the benefit of Portland and Oregon, — do all this, and we will make our bow to- gether to the Oregonians and their great river. Only more full surveys can determine the literal correctness of their claims to superior vastness ; the Columbia, with its chief division, the Snake, m3.y be anywhere from twelve hundred to two thousand miles in length ; — but that it ranks among the three or four great rivers of the world, and that it is the key to vast political and commercial questions and interests, — giving to its line the elements of a pow- erful rivalry to the great central commercial route of our Continent, of which San Francisco is the Pacific terminus, — no one who examines its posi- tion and extent, and witnesses the various capacity of the territory it waters, can for a moment doubt. As yet, however, the Columbia is most known abroad for the rare beauty and majesty of the scenery developed by its passage through the great Andean range of north-western America. Alone of all the rivers of the West has it broken these stern barriers, and the theater of the conquering conflict offers, as might naturally be supposed, many an unusual feature of nature. River and rock have striven together, wrestling in close and doubtful em- brace, — sometimes one gaining ascendancy, again the other, but finally the subtler and more seductive element worrying its rival out, and gaining, the i L uftt ,86 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. western sunshine, broken and scarred and fo:;ming with hot sweat, but proudly victorious, and forcing • the ^vithdrawing arms of its opponent to hold up eternal monuments of its trmmph. To witness these scenes nas been the mam pur- pose and chief pleasure of a two days' excursion up the stream from Portland. Starting at early morn- ing on a steamboat as capacious and comfortable as the best of those on eastern rivers, and with a com- pany of the leading citizens of Oregon, we soon turned out of the Willamette (twelve miles), and steamed up the broad, deep current of the Colum- bia Near at hand was Vancouver, a famous spot in this valley, first as a leading station of the Hud- son Bay Company for many years, and since and now as the chief military station of the United States in the interior North-west. Here many of our prominent military men have served appren- ticeship,-Grant, Hooker, McClellan and Ingles among them. They are all well remembered in the days of their captaincies here by the old inhab- itants. Grant was the same quiet, close-mouthed man then as now, but gave no indication of that great mastery of himself and of others, that he has within these few years so nobly, and to such high purpose, demonstrated. It was while here that he left the army originally, to come back to it in the hour of the Nation's need, a new and nobler man. The present arrkngemeni of the quarters and offices of the post was made under Colonel Ingles admin- istration, and is both generous and tasteful. U is evidently both a favorite and comfortable military post, an of the ' Fifty cd banl Mounta ground. on eith convuls the vail rising i into th( rable e' fast he farther of fiive which to our steamc the ri\ in one rocl.y fall. ' cades throug run s\ sharpe assum saltic the w£ uprigV one a rich I L INT. rred and forming •ious, and forcing • onent to hold up cen the main pur- lays' excursion up ing at early morn- ind comfortable as s, and with a com- Orcgon, we soon :welve miles), and ent of the Colum- ver, a famous spot tation of the Hud- irs, and since and on of the United it. Here many of Lve served appven- llellan and Ingles ell remembered in ■e by the old inhab- uiet, close-mouthed I indication of that others, that he has f, and to such high , while here that he le back to it in the ;w and nobler man. ! quarters and offices lonel Ingles' admin- and tasteful. It is comfortable military THE CASCADES AND THE DALLES. 187 post, and continues to be, as it long has been, one of the "soft placos" in the army on this Coast. Fifty miles of steaming up through heavily wood- ed banks brought us to the foot-hills of the Cascade Mountains, and soon we were upon the charmed ground. High walls of basaltic rock rose slowly on either side; huge boulders, thrown off in tl^e convulsion of water with mountain, lie lower down the valley, or stand out in the stream,— one so large, rising in rough egg shape some thousand feet up into the air, as to become a conspicuous and memo- rable element in the landscape. The river gets too fast here, at the Cascades, as they are called, for farther progress by boat ; we change to a railway of five miles, along rock and river, at the end of which we come to navigable waters again, and find, to our surprise, another large, and equally luxurious steamer. During these five miles of the Cascades, the river makes a descent of forty feet, half of it in one mile, but it takes the form of rough and rocl.y rapids, and not of one distinct, measurable fall. The second boat took us from the Upper Cas- cades to the Dalles, forty-five miles, all the way through the mountains. The waters narrow and run swift and harsh ; the rocks grow higher and sharper ; and their architecture, by fire and water, assumes noble and massive forms. The dark, ba- saltic stones lie along in even layers, seamed as in the walls of human structure ; then they change to upright form, and run up in well-rounded columns, one after another, one above another. Otten is rich similitude to ruined castles of the Rhine; 1*1 r I 188 ACROSS THIC CUNTINKNT. more frequently, fashions and forms, too massive, too majestic, too unique for human ambuion and au to aspire to. Where the clear rock retires, and sloping sides invite, verdure springs strong and forests, as thick and high as in the valleys, fill the landscape. . At the Dalles lies the second town in Oregon, bearing the name of The Dalles, and holding a population of twenty-five hundred. It is the en- trepot ior ^he scattered mines in eastern Oregon, for we are now on the eastern slopes of the mountains, aad very much also for the Boise and Owyhee mines in Idaho. The miners come in here to winter, send there earnings in here, and buy here many of their supplies. Two millions dollars in gold dust came in here from eastern Oregon and Idaho in the sin- gle month of June last. ,The town is ambitious of that unnecessary adjunC a mint, and the Oregon politicians have even wheecUed Congress out of a preliminary appropriation for one. The Dalles marks another interruption to the navigation of the river, and another railway portage of fifteen miles is in use. The entire water of che Columbia is compressed for a short distance into a s;>ace only one hundred and sixty feet wide. Through this it pours with a rapidity and a depth, that give majestic, fearful intensity to its motion ; while interfering rocPs occasionally throw the stream into rich masses of foam. Through these second rapids of fifteen mile the rock scenery at first rises still higher and sharper, and then fast grows tame; the mountains begin to slink away I FUN ON THE STEAMUOAT. 189 IS, too massive, n ambidon and ar rock retires, springs strong, 1 the valleys, fill own in Oregon, , and holding a I, It is the en- tern Oregon, for f the mountains, d Owyhee mines e to winter, send re many of their gold dust came Idaho in the sin- n is ambitious of and the Oregon ongress out of a ;erruption to the ;r railway portage itire water of che lort distance into sixty feet wide, dity and a depth, ivy to its motion ; •nally throw the . Through these e rock scenery at )er, and then fast rin to slink away and to lose their trees; the familiar barrenness of the great interior basin reappears ; and the only beauty of the hills is their richly rounded forms, often repeated, and their only utility pasturage for sheep and horses and cattle. The fifteen miles of railway, which, with the lowc ortage of five miles, are built as permanently, and served as thoroughly, with the best of locomotives and cars, as any rail- oao's in the country, landed us on still another large and luxurious steamboat, — " and still the won- der grew," — built far up here beyond the moun- tains, but with every appointment of comfort and luxury that are found in the best of eastern river craft, — large state-rooms, long and wide cabins, va- rious and well-served meals. From this point (Ce- lilo), there is uninterrupted navigation, and daily or tri-weekly steamers running, to Umatilla, eighty-five miles, Wallula, one hundred and ten miles, and to White Bluffs, one hundred and sixty miles, farther up the stream. For six months in the year, boats can and do run away on to Lewiston, on the Snake River branch of the Columbia, which is two hun- dred and seventy miles beyond Celilo, or five hun- dred miles from the mouth of the Columbia, as White Bluffs, the head of navigation on the main river, is four hundred miles from the mouth. We spent the night on the boat at Celilo, and during the evening the most of the party went back by rail to The Dalles for speeches to the peo- ple from Speaker Colfax and Governor Bross. One of the best bits of fun on our journey was impro- vised on their return late in the night. Those who L 190 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. had remained on the boat suddenly emerged Irom their state-rooms, wrapped in the drapery in which they had laid themselves down to sleep, and pro- ceeded to give <c)rmal welcome to the entering party. Mr. Richardson addressed the Speaker in an amusing travcstie of some familiar points m his own speeches. Mr. Colfax seized the joke, and replied a la Richardson with equal effectiveness. The whole scene and performance was picturesque and amusing in the highest degree; and the cabin resounded with boisterous laughter from all sides. The next morning, we proceeded thirty or forty • miles still farther up the river, till we had got be- yond all traces of the collision of the stream with the mountain, and the scenery grew tame and com- mon. Then we turned back, having reached a point two hundred and sixty miles above the mouth of the river, and retraced our passage through the mountains, renewing our worship and our wonder before the strange and beautiful effects produced by this piercing of these eternal hills by this ma- jestic river of the West. As a whole, I know no like scenery so grand, so beautiful. It has much of the distinguishing elements of the Hudson in its Palisades, of the Rhine in its embattled, precip- itous and irregularly shaped sides, and of the Up- per Mississippi in its overhanging cliffs. Each of these holds a beauty that is not here ; but the Co- lumbia aggregates more than any one the elements of impressiveness, of picturesque majesty, of won- der-working, powerful nature. I was more enthu- siastic over each of those rivers; I saw them with younger a my intcUc a general miles rcp( different a unless wi loved eyes A distil ride up th it, shadov majesty ai great snoi its Mount south of 1 tains, it t seen, now end of ap the river. taincd thi Portland. perpetuat to easterr ive, and i the moun ward-goir mit, oppr angelic ii great and claimed f thousand that it 63 sand feet, I IT. yr emerged Irom rapcry in which sleep, and pro- to the entering the Speaker in miliar points in ed the joke, and lal effectiveness, was picturesque J ; and the cabin r from all sides. :d thirty or forty • \ we had got be- the stream with w tame and com- aving reached a above the mouth isage through the and our wonder effects produced hills by this ma- whole, I know no ul. It has much )f the Hudson in embattled, precip- !s, and of the Up- ig cliffs. Each of here ; but the Co- r one the elements » majesty, of won- [ was more enthu- ; I saw them with MOUNT HOOD. 191 younger and less weary eyes ; but this convinces my intellect of its superiority. There is, however, 11 general uniformity in its characteristics ; one five miles repeats another ; and once seen, you are in- different as to a second sight,— before next year, or unless with the accompaniment of new and be- loved eyes. A distinguishing feature in the landscape of this ride up the Columbia,— apart from it, yet bounding it, shadowing it, yet enkindling it with highest majesty and beauty,— is Mount Hood. This is the great snow peak of Oregon, its Shasta, its Rainier, its Mount Blanc. Lying off twenty or thirty miles south of the river, in its passage through the moun- tains, it towers high above all its fellows, and is seen, now through their gorges, and again at the end of apparent long plains, leading up to it from the river. Most magnificent views of it are ob- tained through nearly all the sail up and down from Portland. That which Bierstadt has chosen for its perpetuation on canvas, and which is thus familiar to eastern eyes, is the most complete and impress- ive, and is recognized upon 1 steamboat. In it, the mountain seems to rise, i part, out from an up- ward-going plain, snow-covered from base to sum- mit, oppressive in its majesty, beautiful in form, angelic in its whiteness, — the union of all that is great and pure and impressive. Various hights are claimed for Hood, from twelve thousand to eighteen thousand five hundred feet ; but it is not at all likely that it exceeds t^yelve thousand or thirteen thou- sand feet, or less than Shasta in northern California, i II 193 ACROSS TUli CONTINENT. and less, also, than Rainier and Adams in Washing, ton Territory. There is some rivalry among the neighbors of these great snow peaks of the north-western United States as to which is the highest. There are four or five of them from eleven thousand to fifteen thou- sand feet each, and the last one the traveler beholds seems to him not only the highest but the most beautiful, so engrossing is the view. But the most reliable mea.<" rements give Shasta the palm at four- teen thousand four hundred and forty feet, and, until within a year, made it the highest mountain peak in the United States. Last season, however, the explorations of the California Geological Survey brought to knowledge a series of rare snow-cov- ered and granite peaks, among the Sierra Nevadas in southern California and Nevada, one or two of which, al least, mount higher than Shasta, and, for the present at least, may claim to be the highest land in the Nation. One of these peaks was called Mount Tyndall. and is about fourteen thousand five hundred feet high ; and another, the very highest, is named Mount Whitney for the head of the Ge- ological Survey of California, and is at least fifteen thousand feet high. But no mountain peak we have yet passed in our journey is seen to so fine advantage as Mount Hood from the Columbia River,— it is hard to imagine a more magnificent snow mountain ; and adding this crowning element to the scenery of the Columbia River, it is probably just to say qf it, that this ex- cursion offers more of natural beauty and wonder THB to intercj single jo presents, of course. Hut to th The na the hands not only I opportuni ate new o in the wi of the sit set of m« Urganize( dred and now, with the two Dalles, ar the princi hundred t estate in ] crty of rii their bus wealth fn to thems( thirty-two lars. Wit atilla, and have form est route Coast to Idaho, as i 9 •n^wi^ NT. ams in Washing- he nclRhbors of i-wcstcrn United There are four id to fifteen thou- : traveler beholds :st but the most V. But the most the palm at four- rty feet, and, until t mountain peak son, however, the eological Survey if rare snow-cov- e Sierra Nevadas la, one or two of n Shasta, and, for :o be the highest ; peaks was called een thousfwd five the very highest, ; head of the Ge- 1 is at least fifteen : yet passed in our ge as Mount Hood hard to imagine a I ; and adding this y of the Columbia qf it, that this ex- leauty and wonder THE OREGON STEAM NAVIGATION COMPANY. I93 to interest and excite the traveler, than any other single journey or scene which the Pacific Coast presents, except the Yosemitc valley. That must, of course, stand first, unrivaled and unapproachable. Hut to this I give the second place. The navigation of the Columbia River is now in the hands of a strong and energetic company, that not only have the capacity to improve all its present opportunities, but the foresight to seek out and cre- ate new ones. They are, indeed, making new paths in the wilderness, and show more comprehension of the situation and purpose to develop it than any set of men I have yet me>. on the Pacific Coast. Organized in 1861, with property worth one hun- dred and seventy-five thousand dollars, they have now, with eighteen or twenty first class steamboats, the two railroads around the Cascades and The Dalles, and their appointments, warehouses at all the principal towns on the river, including one nine hundred and thirty-five feet long at Cellilo, and real estate in preparation for future growth, a total prop- erty of rising two millions dollars, all earned from their business. Besides this great increase of wealth from their own enterprise, they have paid to themselves in dividends three hundred and thirty-two thousand seven hundred and fifty dol- lars. With wagon roads from The Dalles, from Um- atilla, and from Wallula, the river and their boats have formed and still form the cheapest and quick- est route for travel or freight from all parts of the Coast to the rich mines of Boise and Owyhee in Idaho, as well as to those in eastern Oregon. Boise 9 i.^ 194 " ACROSS THE CONTINENT. City is two hundred and sixty miles from Umatilla and Owyhee two hundred and ninety miles. The roads from the other points are longer and poorer. So large have been the travel and trade m this di- rection in tCe last few years, that the Oregon steam navigation company has carried to the Upper Co- lumbia sixty thousand three hundred and twenty tons in the last four years, beginning with six thou- sand tons in 1862 and rising to nearly twenty-two thousand tons in 1864. In the same time, their boats have carried up and down on the river nearly one hundred thousand passengers, increasing from ten thousand in 1861 to thirty-six thousand in 1864. California has at last aroused to the importance of securing this trade, if possible, for herself, and is opening shorter wagon routes to Idaho by way of Chico and Red Bluffs in the upper Sacramento val- ley, and through Nevada by the Humboldt valley; but the Oregon people are still likely to keep the larger share of the traffic, for their route, though longer, is very much by water, and so cheaper, safer and pleasanter. The Oregon navigation company are also busy with plans for improving their own route By opening a road one hundred and ten miles long, across a wide bend of unnavigable sections of the Snake River, from Wallula to the mouth of the Powder River, they will again find the Snake River navigable for one hundred and fifty to two hundred miles farther up its course, or into the very heart of the Owyhee and Boise gold basins-, and on beyond towards Utah. Then from this new head of navigation on the Snake NT. OREGON S PACIFIC RAILROAD CUT-OFF. 195 es from Umatilla lety miles. The nger and poorer. I trade in this »'i- he Oregon steam the Upper Co- dred and twenty ing with six thou- learly twenty-two same time, their n the river nearly i, increasing from thousand in 1864. ;o the importance , for herself, and is 1 Idaho by way of !r Sacramento val- Humboldt valley ; likely to keep the hdr route, though d so cheaper, safer ivigation company proving their own hundred and ten id of unnavigable om Wallula to the ley will again find one hundred and ther up its course, Owyhee and Boise rards Utah. Then tion on the Snake River, to Salt Lake, is but one hundred or one hundred and fifty miles more ; so that with wagon roads of less than three hundred miles, steam navi- gation may soon be secured all the way from Salt Lake to the Pacific Ocean in Oregon. Substitute for these wagon roads a railway, or, leaving out the navigation of the upper Snake, and building a rail- road five hundred and fifty miles across from Salt Lake through the gold regions of Idaho to Wallula, whence is uninterrupted navigation down the Co- lumbia, and the Pacific Coast is reached by steam through Oregon with less than two-thirds the rail- road building required for the central route into San Francisco. The line for this suggested road is easy, crossing the Blue Mountains in eastern Oregon by a very favorable pass, and avoiding by the Columbia River the great work of surmounting the Sierra Nevadas. These are important, preg- nant suggestions. The Oregon navigation com- pany is impressed with their significance, and will next spring construct a steamboat on the upper Snake for testing the practicability of that point in the programme. They mean at least to hold their superiority in the commerce of Idaho, and if the Central Pacific railway interest does not push on its work with alacrity, the despised Oregonians may yet show their heels to their California neigh- bors in the matter of the quickest and cheapest route for travel and freight from the Rocky Moun- tains to the Coast. So at the North, into the heart of British Colum- bia, the Oregon steamboat company are working M (I w 1_- 196 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. out a notable plan for extending their operations. By building a wagon portage of one hundre^ and fifty miles north from White Bluffs, the present head of navigation on the main stream of the Co- lumbia, cutting off a wide and impassable angle of the river, the stream is again struck at a navigable point close to the forty-ninth parallel, and steamers can be run from there one hundred and fifty to t .^o hundred miles north through the series of lakes into which the river widens in that region, away up to the fifty-second and fifty-third parallels, where steamboats were never heard of or thought of. and into the now most famous gold region of British Columbia, the Carriboo country. The steamboac company are already building a steamer in this double upper Columbia, and next season will prob- ably be enabled to inaugurate this capital idea and illustration of their enterprise. Now the Carriboo mines are only reached by way of Victoria, Frazer River, and three hundred to five hundred miles of rough land travel. This new route will bring them into quick and cheap communication with American markets and American impulses at Portland. In this and other ways, Oregon and its people make a pleasant and promising impression upon us They lack many of the advantages of their neighbors below; their agriculture is less varied, but it is more sure; mining has not poured such irregular and intoxicating wealth into their laps; they need, as w.ell, a more thorough farming and a more varied industry; they need, also, as well, in- telligent, patient labor and larger capital; but they have bu more wi severe r encount( not of 1 Coast, ir and mor England exciting among t the Coll extensiv the quar Nevadas capital £ but whil and inve the real reckless and ficl< whole b m unity, great ob and gro\ itself, 01 against thrown i NT. OREGON, PRESENT AND PROSPECTIVE I97 their operations, ne hundre^ and iflfs, the present tream of the Co- jassable angle of :k at a navigable llel, and steamers d and fifty to t.vo J series of lakes t region, away up . parallels, where ir thought of, and region of British The steamboat , steamer in this season will prob- s capital idea and Now the Carriboo f Victoria, Frazer hundred miles of ite will bring them ion with American at Portland, on and its people impression upon [vantages of their ure is less varied, i not poured such h into their laps; jgh farming and a d, also, as well, in- r capital ; but they have builded what they have got more slowly and more wisely than the Californians ; they have less severe reaction from hot and unhealthy growth to encounter, — less to unlearn ; and they seem sure, not of organizing the first State on the Pacific Coast, indeed, but of a steadily prosperous, healthy and moral one, — they are in the way to be the New England of the Pacific Coast. Just now, new and exciting discoveries of placer gold have been made among the head waters of the John Day branch of the Columbia River, in south-eastern Oregon, and extensive improvements are being developed among the quartz mines of the western slopes of the Sierra Nevadas, just off from the Willamette valley ; and capital and labor are hastening in both directions : but while there is much to hope from these promises and investments, there is also something to fear for the real growth of the State. The uncertainty, the recklessness, the gambling habit which the varied and fickle results of gold mining throw over the whole business and morals and manners of a com- munity, that is possessed by the passion, are very great obstacles to a real and permanent prosperity, and growth in high civilization. May Oregon steady itself, or be steadied by sufficiently early failure, against such dangers as California's experience has thrown arotmd her condition as a State. i L # LETTER XIX. THROUGH WASHINGTON TERRITORY. Olympia, W. T., July 26. Unless you have been studying geography lately, you will need to open your map to follow us in our journey northward. So near the north- western limit of the Republic and not to touch it ; so close to John Bull and not to shake his grim paw, and ask him what he thinks of the preposter- ous Yankees now ; so near to that rarely beautiful sheet of water, Puget Sound, and not to sail through it, and know its commercial capacities and feel its natural attractions.-^it would never do. So, two days ago, we put out of Portland, steamed down the Columbia for fifty miles, and up its Cowlitz branch for two miles (all it is now navigable), and landed on the Washington Territory side at two houses and a stage wagon, bearing the classic name of Monticello. Jefferson was not at home; but there was a good dinner with Mr. Burbank, scion of your northern Berkshire Burbanks ; testifying, like all the rest of these border settlers, away from schools and churches and society, that there was no such other country anywhere, and that you could THE not dr!v( of " the : Then gers in ninety-n It was I them on the woot Most ui miles of this rid rough b it is just is over swamps a path c depth a who woi whose I for the laziest memori( instead Butt ests, thi for the ( was CO are the larger a tall tha them c growth L X. ERRITORY. PIA, W. T., July 26. iying geography ur map to follow near the north- \ not to touch it ; o shake his grim of the preposter- it rarely beautiful lot to sail through icities and feel its ;ver do. So, two id, steamed down id up its Cowlitz 3W navigable), and ritory side at two g the classic name lot at home; but k'Ir. Burbank, scion rbanks; testifying, settlers, away frooi ', that there was no nd that you could THE FORESTS OF WASHINGTON TERRITORY. 1 99 not drive them back to the snows and cold winters of " the States." The next question was, how to put eleven passen- gers in ar open wagon that only held seven, for a ninety-mile and two-day drive across the Territory. It was successfully achieved by putting three of them on saddle horses; and off we bounced into the woods at the rate of three to four miles an hour. Most unpoetical rounding to our three thousand miles of staging in these ten weeks of travel, was this ride through Washington. The road was rough beyond description ; during the winter rains it is just impassable, and is abandoned ; for miles it is over trees and sticks laid down roughly in swamps : and for the rest, — ungraded, and simply a path cut through the dense forest, — the hight and depth are fully equal to the length of it. Those who worked their passage, by whipping lazy mules whose backs they strode, and paid twenty dollars for the privilege, made the best time, and haa the laziest of it. Yet since, I observe, with tender memories of hard saddles, they "stand and wait," instead of sitting upon wooden chairs. But the majestic beauty of the fir and cedar for- ests, throug . which we rode almost continuously for the day and a half that the road stretched out, was compensation for much discomfort. These are the finest forests we have yet met, — the trees larger and taller and standing thicker ; so thick and tall that the ground they occupy could net hold them cut and corded as wood; and the under- growth of shrub and flower and vine and fern, al- 200 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. • most tropical in its luxuriance and impenetrable for its closeitess. Washington Territory must have more timber and ferns and blackberries and snakes to the square mile than any other State or Territory of the Union. We occasionally struck a narrow prairie or a thread-like valley ; perhaps once in ten miles a clearing of an acre or two, rugged and rough in its half-redomptljn from primitive forest; but for the most part it was a continuous ride through for- ests, so high and thick that the sun could not reach the road, so unpeopled and untouched, that the very spirit of Solitude reigned supreme, and made us feel its presence as never upon Ocean or Plain. The ferns are delicious, little and big,— more of them, and larger than you can see in New Eng- land,— and spread their beautiful shapes on every hand. But the settlers apply to them other adjec- tives beginning with d, for they vindicate their right to the soil, in plain as well as forest, with most tenacious obstinacy, and to root them out is a long and difficult job for the farmer. We dined on the second day at Skookem Chuck (which is Indian for "big water,") and came to the head of Puget Sound, which kindly shortens the land-passage across the Territory one-half, and this town, the capital, at night, encountering the usual demonstration of artillery, brass band and banners, and most hospitable greeting from Acting-Governor Evans and other officials and citizens. Olympia lies charmingly under the hill by the water-side ; counts its inhabitants less than five hundred, though still the largest town of the Territory, save the mming center of wards Id within ci center fo airs and 1 and entei Phebe lit fair Afric robed in and dign training ; If thei among t Coast or good eat Cisco to 1 ness of > is the ru habitanti cooks. lively rec captions, ancient 1 if you d requeste o' nighti fleas an New Er a church here, th( a restau; bitters J 9' INT. ind impenetrable rritory must have erries and snakes State or Territory struck a narrow rhaps once in ten rugged and rough ive forest; but for ride through for- in could not reach louched, that the ipreme, and made n Ocean or Plain, nd big, — more of see in New Eng- l shapes on every them other adjec- ;y vindicate their ell as forest, with ) root them out is rmer. It Skookem Chuck ') and came to the mdly shortens the ^ one-half, and this untering the usual band and banners, a Acting-Governor tens, Olympia lies water-side; counts mdred, though still y, save the mming THE FOOD OF THE PACIFIC. 20 1 center of Wallula, way down in the south-east to- wards Idaho; numbers more stumps than houses within city limits; but is the social and political center for a large extent of country ; puts on the airs and holds many of the materials of fine society ; and entertained us at a very Uncle Jerry and Aunt Phebe little inn, whose presiding genius, a fat and fair African of fifty years and three hundred pounds, robed in spotless white, welcomed us with the grace and dignity of a qu(ien, and fed us as if we were in training for a cannibal's table. If there is one thing, indeed, more than another, among the facts of civilization, which the Pacific Coast organizes most quickly and completely, it is good eating. From the Occidental at San Fran- cisco to the loneliest of ranches on the most wilder- ness of weekly stage routes, a "good square meal" is the rule ; while every village of five hundred in- habitants has its restaurants and French or Italian cooks. I say this with the near exj rience and the lively recollection of one or two most illustrious ex- ceptions, where the meals consisted of coarse bacon, ancient beans and villainous mustard, — and where, if you declined the two former, you were politely requested to help yourself to mustard, — and where, 0' nights, the beds could e'en rise and walk with fleas and bedbugs. When the Puritans settled New England, their first public duty was to build a church with thrifty thought for their souls. Out here, their degenerate sons begin with organizing a restaurant, and supplying Hostetter's stomachic bitters and an European or Asiatic cook. So the i 202 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. seat of empire, in its travel westward, changes its base from soul to stomach, from brains to bowels. Perhaps it is only in obedience to that delicate law of our later civilization, which forbids us to enjoy our religion unless we have already enjoyed our victual, and which sends a dyspeptic to hell by an eternal regard to the fitness of things. And cer- tainly the piety, that ascends from a grateful and gratified stomach, is as likely to be worthy as that fitfully fructified by Brandreth's pills. Is it not a little singular that only our forty- oddth State should bear the name of Washington ? That it was left to this day and to this cornermost Territory to enroll his name among the stars of the Republic's banner.? Washington Territory is the upper half of old Oregon, divided by the Co- lumbia River and the fortieth parallel for the south- ern boundary, and extending up to the forty-ninth, to which, under the reaction from the unmartial Polk's "fifty-four-forty or fight" pretensions, our northern line was ignominiously limited to. Its population is small, less than twenty thousand, and not likely to grow fast, or make it a State for some years to come, unless the chance, not probable, of rich gold and silver mines within its lines should flood it with rapid immigration. But it holds sure wealth and a large future through its certain illim- itable forests and its probable immense coal depos- its. Of all Its surface, west of the Cascade or Si- erra Nevada Mountains, not more than one-eighth is prairie or open land ; the rest is covered by a growth of timber, such as, alike in density and in L ENT. ward, changes its brains to bowels, that delicate law rbids us to enjoy sady enjoyed our ptic to hell by an hings. And cer- )ni a grateful and be worthy as that lills. t only our forty- : of Washington ? this cornermost long the stars of igton Territory is ivided by the Co- allel for the south- to the forty-ninth, om the unmartial ' pretensions, our f hmited to. Its :nty thousand, and it a State for some e, not probable, of in its lines should But it holds sure h its certain illim- imense coal depos- the Cascade or Si- re than one-eighth st is covered by a in density and in THE SOIL OF WASHINGTON. 203 • size, no other like space on the earth's surface can boast of. Beyond the mountains to the East, the country partakes of the same characteristics as that below it; hilly, barren of trees, unfruitful, whose chief promises and possibilities are in the cattle and sheep line. Its arable land this side the moun- tains, where the forests are cleared or interrupted, is less fertile than that of Oregon and California ; but it sufficeth for its present population, and even admits of considerable exports of grain and meat for the mining populations in British Columbia, and will grow in extent and productiveness probably as fast as the necessities of the Territory require. yi-^^t^ "* __«»gM^^^^^g \m I LETTER XX. PUGET SOUND, AND VANCOUVER'S ISLAND, Victoria, V. L, July 28. We were a full day and night coming down Puget Sound, on the steamer from Olympia; loitering along at the villages on its either shore, and study- ing the already considerable development of its lumber interests, as well as regaling ourselves with the beauty of its waters and its richly-stored forest shores. Only the upper section of the southern branch of these grand series of inland seas and rivers, that sweep into the Continent here, and make Vancouver's Island, and open uo a vast re- gion of interior country to the ocean, is now called Puget Sound,— only forty miles or so from Olympia north. Formerly the whole confines went by that name; and rightfully it should remain to all which runs up into Washington Territory from out the Strait of San Juan de Fuca, for this has a unity and serves a similar purpose. For beauty and for use, this is, indeed, one of the water wonders of the world ; curiosity and commerce will give it, year by year, increase of fame and visitors. It narrows to a river's width ; it circles and swoops into the land with c miles < where free of of all < It i£ Coast, shores thirty- sand fc of five ing wi presen lumbci hundn averag millior tomer Pacific Bueno for bu cheap( shippii Sound from 1 The I grow A and w' m oth( calcuh these come I PUGET S SOUND, AND ITS LUMIJKR. 205 fVER'S ISLAND. TORIA, V. I., July 28. aming down Puget Hyrnpia; loitering • shore, and study- evelopment of its ing ourselves with richly-stored forest n of the southern f inland seas and intinent here, and •pen UD a vast re- cean, is now called 3r so from Olympia fines went by that emain to all which itory from out the his has a unity and beauty and for use, er wonders of the will give it, year by jrs. It narrows to voops into the land with coquettish ficedom; and then it widens into miles of breadth ; carrying the largest of shii)s any- where on its surface, even close to the forests' edge ; free of rocks, safe from wind and wave ; — the home of all craft, clear, blue and fathomless. It is the great lumber market of all the Pacific Coast. Already a dozen saw-mills are located on its shores ; one which we visited was three hundred and thirty-six feet long, and turns out one hundred thou- sand feet of lumber daily ; three ships and two barks of five hundred to one thousand tons each were load- ing with the product direct from the mill ; and the present entire export of tl;e Sound, in prepared lumber and masts and spar.s, reaches nearly to one hundred millions of feet yearly, and yields at the average price of ten dollars a thousand about one million dollars. San Francisco is the largest cus- tomer; but the Sandwich Islands, China, all the Pacific American ports, south and north, and even Buenos Ayres around on the Atlantic, come here for building materials, and France finds here her cheapest and best spars and masts. Much of the shipping employed in the business is owned on the Sound; one mill company has twelve vessels of from three hundred to one thousand tons each. The business is but in its very infancy; it will grow with the growth of the whole Pacific Coast, and with the increasing dearth of fine ship timber m other parts of the world ; for it is impossible to calculate the time when, cut and saw as we may, all these forests shall be used up, and the supply be- come exhausted. 1 to6 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. The size of these WashinKton Territory trees is rather ovcrpoweriiiK,— we have not seen the big trees of California yet,— and not daring to trust unaccustomed eyes, we resorted to the statistics of the lumbermen. Trees, six and .seven feet m diam- eter, and two hundred to two hundred and fifty feet !ugh, are very common, perhaps rarely out of sight in the forest ; eight feet in diameter and three hun- dred feet high are rarer, but still not at all uncom- mon ;— the builder of the telegraph line has hitched his wire in one case to a cedar (arbor vitsc) which is fourteen feet in diameter ; a monster tree that had fallen,— the forests arc full of fallen trees,— measured three hundred and twenty-five feet long ; and another tree, at the distance of ninety feet from its root, was seven feet in diameter ! Masts for ships are readily procurable, straight as an arrow, and without a knot for one hundred feet, and forty inches in diameter at thirty feet from the base. I stop my figures here, lest my character for truthful reporting grow questionable. Out of the Sound and straight across the Strait, twenty miles, we encounter the rocky shore of Vancouver's Island ; searching along we meet a hidden hole in the wall, and, steaming in, there opens out a little wash-bowl of a bay ; and here is Victoria. It is a charming surprise,— the prettiest located and best built town on the Pacific Coast, and next to Portland in size and business,— a healthy copartnership of American enterprise and enthusiasm, and English solidity and holdfastness. The population ranges from twenty-five hundred m summei winters in Hriti to towi and its there ai minous worked which here co whole ' than fi' these r chinery ment,— resenta last yes a year, town b burdeni our pe< special income practici duties, the con Over is repei British ulation, from th of Fra T. irritory trees is t seen the big daring to trust he statistics of m feet in diam- cd and fifty feet cly out of sight and three hun- )t at all uncom- line has hitched 3or vitic) which )nster tree that fallen trees, — ^-five feet long ; ninety feet from ter! Masts for ht as an arrow, :l feet, and forty om the base. I icter for truthful icross the Strait, rocky shore of long we meet a :aming in, there bay ; and here is c, — the prettiest le Pacific Coast, nd business, — a n enterprise and ind holdfastness. y-five hundred in VICTUKIA: UKITISH RULE. 207 summer and dull times (now) to five thousand in winter and the flush season, when the mining across in British Columbia pays well, and the miners come to town to spend their harvest. Out of the town and its trade, the island offers little development ; there are some poor-paying gold mines ; good bitu- minous coal is found in abundance, and profitably worked; here and there is forming in patches, which is extending, but most of the food eaten here comes from California and Washington. The whole white population of the island is no more than five thousand to seven thousand, and over these reigns the cumbersome and expensive ma- chinery of an especial English colonial govern- ment, — partly appointed by the crown, partly rep- resentative, — with a parliament that sat ten montlis last year; spending four hundred thousand dolhrs a year, and raising it out of the business of tl\is town by a system of taxation many times more burdensome than our civil war has imposed on our people, — including a tax on all sales, besides special licenses for each particular business, and an income tax on top of all ; but giving in return a practically good government, a port free of customs duties, order in the city, and excellent roads into the country. Over across the Gulf of Georgia the same thing is repeated ; there stretches out the vast region of British Columbia, with another seven thousand pop- ulation, largely mining and American, but scattered from the capital of New Westminster at the mouth of Frazer River, north and east to the Carriboo fi! -"wmi^,: 208 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. country and the valley of the Kootenay, five hun- dred and six hundred miles away ; duplicating this formal and expensive machinery of government, with £ni;lish castles almost for gubernatorial resi- dences, and fifteen thousand dollars a year salaries to live in them with, and a long retinue of imported British officials to match ; raising revenue on this side the gulf, however, from cu, .oms duties and a fifty cent tariff on every ounce of gold dug, in part ; and giving nothing to boast of back but better roads to the mines than the American States offer. The taxation for public purposes in British Columbia swells to the enormous sum of one hundred dollars per head of population, and that in Vancouver's Island to seventy dollars, a year. The Frazer River gold diggings, in British Co- lumbia, are about worked out now; few besides Chinamen are washing in them this year ; and the rush of the white miners is to the more distant and better paying regions of Carriboo and Kootenay, though these, as all others on the Coast, are over- shadowed this season by the fame of Idaho and Montana. Victoria is the chief commerc'?' "oint for these two British Provinces, and in pari, also, for Wash- ington Territory; and much profitable smuggling goes on across these waters and imaginary territo- rial lines into the .United States. There are fewer Americans in Victoria than formerly; they are stepping out, as its prosperity seems waning ; but the English element is apparently increasing. The two nations mingle pretty cordially ; the Yankees tenay, five hun- duplicating this of government, bernatorial resi- s a year salaries inue of imported revenue on this ms duties and a old dug, in part ; : but better roads tates offer. The British Columbia ; hundred dollars in Vancouver's ;s, in British Co- ow; few besides lis year; and the more distant and and Kootenay, J Coast, are over- ne of Idaho and ?' "oint for these L, also, for Wash- fitable smuggling iiiiaginary ternto- There are fewer •merly; they are ems watiing; but increasing. The illy ; the Yankees RECEPTION AT VICTORIA. 209 chafe a good deal at the extraordinarily high taxes and the aristocratic government, and even practical John Bull begins to see the ridiculous side of it. More surely than the Canadas, even, when these provinces become really important and worth hav- ing, they will be ours. They will drift to the Union by the inevitable law of gravitation, and by the in- fluence of the leaven of American nationality and sentiment, already large throughout their borders, that will grow with their growth, and flavor their whole progress. Three daily papers seem to pros- per in Victoria; the stores are exceedingly well built, and, aside from the twenty-five to thirty-three per cent, that are now unoccupied, make a good showing of English goods; "sh< ^ing" is cheaper than anywhere in the States ; anct the whole order of the civilization here has many pleasant points of contrast with other towns on the Pacific Coast. This, too, is the great depot of the Hudson Bay Company ; all their business from the Pacific Coast to the Red River of the North, beyond Minnesota, centers here ; and their warehouses of accumulat- ing furs and of distributing goods to pay for them are among the chief curiosities of the place. They do a general trading business wherever they have stations or stores; and you can buy calicoes and cottons, hardware and mm at their counters, as at any old-fashioned country store in New England. Our day and a half in Victoria has been a very pleasant experience indeed. The Americans gave Mr. Colfax and his friends cordial welcome; the English were no whit less hearty in demonstration 14 2IO ACROSS THE CONTINENT. of good feeling and respect ; there was what the French call a "grand dinner," the eating whereof lasted from seven to ten p. m., and the speaking whereat continued from ten to three A. m., — the re- sult of which was that all little international differ- ences and accounts were amicably adjusted, Andy Johnson and Queen Victoria were married, and the two grand nations of the Anglo-Saxon race were joined into one overpowering, all-subduing, all-fruc- tifying Republic ! "And what a bloody country that would be," exclaimed an enthusiastic Britisher at one of the clock in the morning. How could the little question as to the title to a group of small islands in this inland sea, and known by the name of the largest,' San Juan, be thought of in such a fraternal baptism ? And, indeed, by the cool of the morning after, it seems a very small affair. Nothing but wide war between the two countries could evc;r make it of the slightest prac- tical consequence. The question turns on whether the boundary line runs from strait to gulf by one channel or the other, this side the isUinds or that. Meantime, each government supports a captain and corporal's guard of soldiers on San Juan,— only dis- tinguishable, probably, one fiom the other by the blue and the red of their uniforms,— and fraterniz- ing daily, doubtless, over a game of cards and a whisky bottle. All these differences do indeed grov; small and unpractical as you get near to them ; and it is difiicult to appreciate what an ex- citement and passion one of our generals created up here a few years ago by laying hold on the whole of what map, anc ican clai view of our lap i uable, th dcfinitel; Up he treal, we to you ii of Calif in deep Mounts down Pi to three in hight of deep coast, 01 region o white tl ical flow Victoria shadow! and rai fuchsias and otb rioting and all not gro The present son wit :nt. re was what the ; eating whereof nd the speaking ee A. M., — the re- ternational differ- y adjusted, Andy ; married, and the Saxon race were subduing, all-fruc- oody country that astic Britisher at LS to the title to a id sea, and known Juan, be thought And, indeed, by eems a very small between the two he slightest prac- turns on whether ait to gulf by one he isliinds or that. )orts a captain and in Juan, — only dis- the other by the tis, — and fratemiz- ic of cards and a ;rences do indeed you get near to ;ciate what an ex- r generals created f hold on the whole THE SUMMER IN VICTORIA. 211 of what the half is a burden. Palpably, by the map, and by the course of ocean travel, the Amer- ican claim to these islands is the right one ; but ii\ view of the certainty of all this apple falling into our lap as soon as it is ripe enough to be really val- uable, the present status may as well as not go in- definitely on. Up here, above the latitude of Que'bec and Mon- treal, we bask in the smile of roses that are denied to you in New England. Mounts Shasta and Hood of California and Oregon are more than rivaled in deep snow fields and majestic snow peaks by Mounts Rainier and Baker of Washington ; sailing down Puget Sound, we take in the former from base to three peaked summit of thirteen thousand feet in hight, all aglow with perpetual white, — a feature of deep beauty and impressiveness ; along the sea coast, on the opposite side, the hills also ribe to the region of continuous snow, and look down bald and white through the long summer days into the trop- ical flower gardens and orchards and hot streets of Victoria ; and here, everywhere under these wintry shadows, reigns a year, that knows no zero cold, and rarely freezing water or snow; that winters fuchsias and the most delicate roses, English ivies and other tender plants, aYid summers- them with rioting luxuriance ; that grows the apple, the pear and all the small fruits to perfection, and only can- not grow our Indian corn. The climate of all this Pacific Coast certainly presents many solaces and satisfactions in compari- son with our own New England. I do not wonder 212 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. the emigrants hither find new health and life and much happiness in its great comparative evenness ; but I do not yet recognize that which would com- pensate me for the loss of our slow, hesitating, coy- ing spring times, our luxuriously-advancing, tender, red and brown autumns, aye, and our clear and crisply-cold winter days and snow-covered lands, with the contrasting evergreens, the illuminated sky, the delicately fretted architecture of the leaf- less trees, the sunsets, the nerve-giving tonic of the air. Surely there is more various beauty in the progress of a New England year than any which all the Pacific Coast can offer. SAN FR/ "Fris< calls the a good pi and rollii on a wide legs over cramping It is sora junction quick, ch "to be s sleep as mind to bands lie horrid W( ners vex There independ city. Ai The Wa: ENT. lalth and lii'e and arative evenness ; rhich would com- w, hesitating, coy- idvancing, tender, id our clear and )w-covered lands, , the illuminated icture of the leaf- jiving tonic of the us beauty in the r than any which LETTER XXI. SAN FRANCISCO: MR. COLFAX AND HIS RECEP- TION IN THE PACIFIC STATES. San Francisco, August a. " Friscoe," as the interior lovingly and for short calls the commercial capital of the Pacific Coast, is a good place to come back to, after dusty stage rides and rolling ocean travel. It is refreshing to stretch on a wide bed at the Occidental, after tangling your legs over night in the corner of a " mud wagon," or cramping them in the narrow berth of a steamer. It is something to miss the punctual Speaker's in- junction to be ready at four in the morning, and his quick, cheery voice at quarter before, cautioning us "to be sure and be on hand;" something also to sleep as long as we can, and eat when we have a mind to; much, indeed, to know that no brass bands lie in wait for us, no hoarse cannon hold a horrid welcome for tender nerves, no midnight din- ners vex dyspeptic stomachs. There is real refreshment and rest, always, in the independence and let-you-alone-ativeness of a large city. And Friscoe is, indeed, a good place, per se. The Washoe people have their chief fhcentive to 214 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. h'fi , .m m piety in the assirraiice that thus, when they die, they will come here ; just as good Bostonians count Paris their paradise. These bare, brown and white sand hills, that Nature exposes wliere art has not covered her, all around in San Francisco, furnish no poetical proof of the susceptible Washoe theory ; they are just about as far away from all traditional and imaginative ideas of the Garden of Eden as it is possible for ugly fact to be ; but the dissimilitude of the "F;;iscoe" climate to all known anywhere else on the face of the terrestrial globe, may suggest a point on the side of the Washoeites. You cannot palm off old Thomas's almanac on the weather question, — "calculated for Boston, but equally ap- plicable to any other meridian," — in this town. San Francisco weather is only its own parallel; there is nothing like it, either here on the Pacific Coast, or elsewhere, so far as Bayard Taylor has traveled, or Fitzhugh Ludlow imagined in Hash- eesh. It has its summer in winter, and its winter in summer ; the ladies go to church and to opera and a shopping, in July and August, clad in heavy furs ; overcoats are a daily necessity to every man not lined with a patent air-tight coal stove; and this very day of August is borrowed from the sui- cide week of November, — I would go "my bottom dollar," as the miners say, that it would siiow in half an hour, were I on my native heath. And yet, — ingrate, am I not ? — while I write this plaint, I am eating Sweetwater grapes bought in the shops at ten cents a pound, though the season is but just opening; Black Hamburgs are equally cheap and plenty ; cents tc apricots, berri ,s ( at equal: What is, that i where, a break tt ivca, hen ters of bay, anc breeze i changes betweer sky is c Thus th apologi2 of weal here, ar the dayi cool ; a: ciably. Ben broughl days ; 2 by the storm r but rol and th« by higl fortificj ENT. 5, when they die, I Bostonlans count , brown and white (vliere art has not Francisco, furnish le Washoe theory ; rom all traditional den of Eden as it It the dissimilitude own anywhere else ibe, may suggest a ites. You cannot c on the weather •n, but equally ap- 1," — in this town. its own parallel; lere on the Pacific 3ayard Taylor has magined in Hash- iter, and its winter lurch and to opera gust, clad in heavy issity to every man It coal stove; and awed from the sui- ild go " my bottom it would siiow in lative heath. And I write this plaint, )ought in the shops g season is but just equally cheap and :an Francisco's summers. 215 plenty ; peaches are ponderous and luscious at fifty cents to one dollar a basket; and pears, plums, apricots, nectarines, figs, blackberries and straw- bcrri ,s (still !) all flood the fruit stores, and are sold at equally low rates. What gives San Francisco its harsh summer days is, that it is constantly " in the draft." While else- where, along shore, the coast hills uninterruptedly break the steady north-west breeze of the summer sea, here they open just enough to let out the wa- ters of the Sacramento River and San Fiancisco bay, and let in like a tide of escape steam the ocean breeze and mists. When winter comes, the wind* changes to south-east, and blows to softer scale, and between showers, — for then comes the rain, — the sky is clearer and the air balmier than in summer. Thus the Friscoe people boast of their winters, and apologize for their summers. Invalids, especially of weak lungs, find the latter seasons very trying here, and flee to the protected valleys inland, where the days are hot and clear, and the nights agreeably cool ; and come back here to winter safely and so- ciably. Ben HoUaday's good steamer Sierra Nevada brought us down from Victoria in less than three days ; and we tried the Pacific Ocean and came in by the Golden Gate for the first time. Though no storm raged, the sea did not prove title to the name, but rolled and pitched us altogether unpacifically ; and the mile wide gate to San Francisco, guarded by high hills, abruptly opened, and bristling with fortifications, found from us ready answer to its 2l6 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. welcome ; and we swept around its double corner, and came to wharf in the generous and land-locked bay of San Francisco, with thanksgiving and grati- tude, swelling anew and higher to Providence, Cap- tain Conner and Dr. Murdock, as we learned the sad fate of our alternate steamer, the Brother Jona- than, on her passage by us up the route. We passed her and her fatal rock, only an hour or two before their sudden and sad collision ; and we readily join, as you can imagine, in the wide tide of feeling that the disaster creates here. The genial old General Wright, long and honorable in service, and beloved throughout the Pacific States, and Mr. Nesbit of the Bulletin editorial staff, we knew, and had expe- rienced their hospitality. Other prominent and be- loved citizens went down in that mysterious, sudden wreck. Speaker Colfax and his friends have now made the round of the Pacific States and Territories, so far as their time will admit. Idaho and Montana they regret not to visit, but they have obtained much intimate knowledge of their characteristics and capacities. A month more remains to them here ; and this they spend in excursions to the in- terior of California,— to the Big Trees, the Yosem- ite, the Geysers, etc., — and in more private engage- ments in this city and State, than they have yet been able to make. The Speaker's public visit, or perhaps more properly his public reception by the people of the Pacific States, may be said to be over. It has been a very remarkable one for its generos- ity and universality and spontaneity; altogether ENT. ts double corner, s and land-locked sgiving and grati- Providence, Cap- is we learned the the Brother Jona- oute. We passed our or two before id we readily join, ide of feeling that ;enial old General rvice, and beloved nd Mr. Nesbit of Bw, and had expe- prominent and be- aysterious, sudden s have now made md Territories, so laho and Montana ley have obtained leir characteristics remains to them cursions to the in- Trees, the Yosem- ire private engage- lan they have yet er's public visit, or c reception by the ' be said to be over, ne for its generos- ineity ; altogether THE GREETINGS TO MR. COLFAX. 217 unexpected to him, and so still more flattering; and greatly creditable to the hospitality and genu- ine patriotism of the people of these States. I have omitted any record of it, in our progress from town to town and State to State, becaiise the story in all general terms was the same. But now that it is substantially over and the journey completed, it is only simple truth to say that no man ever had such a generous popular welcome on these shores before. From his arrival at Austin in Nevada, where we first struck the spreading tide of Pacific civilization and population, through that State, through Cali- fornia to this city, and again northerly through the State, through Oregon and Washington, and into the British Provinces, up to this time, — a period of six weeks, — his progress through the country has been a continuous popular ovation. Everywhere the same welcome from authorities and citizens, the same unstinted proffer of every^ facility for the journey, for seeing all parts of the country, all shades of its development: special coaches, special trains and extra steamboats have been at his service ; welcome everywhere to confi- dence, to fullest fact from most intelligent sources ; welcome everywhere by brass band, cannon, mili- fary escort, public addresses ; and everywhere, even to smallest village and tavern collection of neigh- boring rancheros, the same eager desire to hear the distinguished visitor speak, and eke then for big or little orations from his less distinguished com- panions. There is a combination of causes for the marked 10 if I 2i8 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. to Mr. Colfax in all this region. Chief, of course are h s conspicuous public position, and the fact tha ie is the fir Jt man high in State who has ever visited the Pacific States for the simple and sole reason of studying their resources and interests, so as tl c bette to serve them in the government; his early a^d Lady friendship and lead-^ip m importan lecislation at Washington in behalf of all this re In Z wide personal popularity among public Ten 'and private men, who have ever known him Z the m'agnetic spread of this Populan^^^^^^^^^^ his iourncy from his intercourse with the people and hrspeeches to them. We must add to these easons. now, the newly-developed and hea^^^^^^^^^ nathv of these western States with the pohtical ex rertUes and interests of the East; their inability Tshare in the war directly, but their therefore Ire intensely loyal feeling in regard to it and i issues, and the limited occasion for expressing it. Also and an important consideration, is the eager Lwng for larger knowledge and new appreciation of the capacitfes and interests of these States, in this time of their depression and compara >ve pov- erty ; and the desire for the spread of such infor- m Jion among the public men. and through th. press of the last, as will lead to a fresh emigration and a new supply of capital. It is dull times here ; ft fs flush tim^s in the East; and the West wou^ borrow of our new life and prosperity. Mr. Colfax and his companions ..ere men thought to be m po- sitions to contribute to such results; and part of their wcl hospitalit confcssec motive, | croditabl bountiful people n feeling a are move Mr. C( cverywh( route wai to be tun greeting long and «ince he speeches ied, they elaborate ular eloq in all his other of so much, cced so w ing have frankness plicity in clear exp which ha with his treated h ing out < iNT. THE SPEECHES OF MR. COLFAX. 219 of this welcome Chief, of course, , and the fact that 10 has ever visited ,nd sole reason of terests, so as the •nment ; his early ship in important lalf of all this re- •ity among public ever known him, i popularity along e with the people must add to these :d and hearty sym- ith the political ex- ast ; their inability )ut their therefore regard to it and its 1 for expressing it. iration, is the eager id new appreciation of these States, in id compara ive pov- pread of such infor- a, and through the a fresh emigration :t is dull times here; and the West would sperity. Mr. Colfax thought to be in po- results ; and part of their welcome, part of the generous confidence and hospitality that have been extended to them, have confessedly been on this ground. Such union of motive, gratitude, appreciation, loyalty, wise and creditable selfishness, have inspired and fed most bountiful welcome and treatment. These western people never do anything by halves ; they give of feeling and of time and of money, whenever they are moved, without stint, without calculation. Mr. Colfax has freely gratified the popular desire everywhere to listen to his voice ; no place on his route was too small, no gathering too insignificant, to be turned off with indifference, when such hearty greeting appealed for attention ; and he has spoken, long and short, an average of at least once a day since he left the Missouri River; — some days his speeches number four and five. Never much stud- ied, they were rarely alike in form ; never greatly elaborated, they always reached a high level of pop- ular eloquence. The average quality of excellence in all his efforts has surprised me : I doubt if any other of our public men could speak so often and so much, and on such various occasions, and suc- ceed so well in all. The characteristics of his speak- ing have been practical wisdom or good sense, entire frankness in utterance of opinions, a charming sim- plicity in his style of oratory, coupled with a ready, clear expression, and a steady, natural enthusiasm, which have kept his hearers in constant sympathy with his individuality. The staple subjects he has treated have been the War and the questions grow- ing out of it, the Resources of the Pacific States -"•"mx^ J 220 ACROSS THK CONTINENT. and their development, the Mining and the taxation of its results, the Mexican question and the Monn.e doetrinc, the Future Destiny of the Kcpubhc Mr Lincoln and his character, the Pacific Railroad, and such local and personal matters as the place and hour suggested. , . • i As to the mines and the taxation of their prod- ucts, which is a subject of much anxiety in the mining districts. Mr. Colfax has taken the ground that the mineral lands should be thrown open by the government to the free occupation of discover- ers and workers, the same as our agricultural lands, and under similar regulations to those the miners themselves have adopted, in the absence of any governmental action, and that the government should not tax the product until it passes, finally. in the form of bullion, into the commercia uses of the world ;~the same as it taxes grain only m the form of whiskey and flour, sheep and wool as cloth, and the woods in their last processes of manufac- ture He argued this point so justly and strongly that he gained general acquiescence even from the classes who have generally contended that mining should, in no form or stage, be obliged to contribute to the support of the government. On the Mexican question, he even -more bravely set himself against the current of public opinion on this Coast. Here it is popular to talk of " cleaning out" Maximilian in sixty days ; of taking up arms for the Juarez government, even if war with England and France should thus be precipitated. Mr. Coltax said distinctly that he had no sympathy with this MK. ( demand ; thought 1 Mexico ; by our p< new war needed tl we nccdc our mine titrc, and bidden o: war; anc and a g( the pcof factorily calamity by the ] and aga made a citizens his opin almost a of the r added to by his c( His visit for the i Mr. C Placervi and 01> plcte ai sions. combine NT. MK. COLFAX AND THE MEXICAN (jUESTION. 221 and the taxation and the Monroe Republic, Mr. ic Railroad, and IS the place and ie it )n of their prod- 1 anxiety in the aken the ground thrown open by ition of discover- igricultural lands, those the miners ; absence of any the government it passes, finally, )mmercial uses of grain only in the and wool as cloth, :esses of manufac- ustly and strongly nee even from the mded that mining liged to contribute t. ;ven«more bravely ■ public opinion on ) talk of "cleaning ■ taking up arms for war with England litated. Mr. Colfax ympathy with this demand ; he believed in the Monroe doctrine, he thought the Juarez was the rightful government of Mexico ; but he was for no hasty, no harsh action by our people or government. We should have no new war if it could be avoided honorably; wc needed the healing, developing influences of peace; we needed to build the Pacific Railroad, to develop our mines and our manufactures and ou. agricul- ture, and to pay our debts, — all which wouM be for- bidden or suffer delay and depression under foreign war ; and he believed that with patience and tact, and a generous confidence in our government by the people, the Mexican question would be satis- factorily solved ere long, without any such dire calamity as a new and gencial taking up of arms liy the Nation. Pressing these views constantly and against the popular passion, he has clearly made a strong impression in their favor; leading citizens and prominent journals have responded to his opinions ; and he may be said to have worked almost a revolution in the current public sentiment of the Pacific States on this subject ; while he has added to the universal respect felt for him personally by his courage in espousing an unpopular view here. His visit may be counted as of real national benefit for the influence of his course in this matter alone. Mr. Colfax's speeches at Austin, Virginia City, Placerville, Sacramento, San Francisco, Portland and Olympia may be reckoned as his most com- plete and satisfactory and statesmanlike discus- sions. That at the dinner table in Victoria, to his combined American and British entertainers, was tmm 222 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. his finest specimen of popular eloquence ; it was well-conceived and tasteful in thought, well-pitched and richly sustained in expression; and its impres- sion upon his audience, one of the nxost intelligent and critical he has ever addressed, wai? most decided and gratifying. The leading ' English gentlemen present were enthusiastic concerning both its mat- ter and manner. It breatned the spirit of peace and fraternal feeling towards the English sovereign and people; while setting forth most effectively the success and destiny of the great American Re- public. Mr. Colfax has indeed gained credit and popu- larity everywhere on his journey, and his visit here is as likely to prove as valuable to him personally, in his growth as a public man, as it surely will be important and useful in intertwining the bonds of business and of political union, of profit and of pa- triotism, among the widely separated .States of the Nation. Of his compar.ions in his travels, Governor Bross has generally joined him in addressing the popular audiences that have welcomed the party, and Mr. Richardson occasionally, and both with much acceptance. The Governor is sure to gam the cheers of the men, the smiles of the ladies; and Mr. Richardson has charmed all by his cul- tured sentences and his well-rounded rhetoric holding NT. oquence; it was ght, well-pitched , and its impres- n\ost intelligent va:5 most decided iglish gentlemen ing both its mat' 2 spirit of peace English sovereign jst eflfsctively the t American Re^ credit and popu- and his visit here him personally, 5 it surely will be ling the bonds of ■ profit and of pa- ited States of the i travels, Governor in addressing the [corned the party, y, and both with or is sure to gain les of the ladies; ed all by his cul- aded rhetoric LETTER XXII. THE YOSEMITE VALLEY AND THE BIG TREES. YosEMiTE Vailey, California, August n. The Yosemite ! As well interpret God in thirty- nine articles as portray it to you by word of mouth or pen. As well reproduce castle or cathedral by a stolen frieze, or broken column, as thifs assem- blage of natural wonder and beauty by photograph or painting. The overpowering sense of the sub- lime, of awful desolation, of transcending marvel- ousness and unexpectedness, that swept over us, as we reined our*horses sharply out of green forests, and stood upon high jutting rock that overlooked this rolling, upheaving sea of granite mountains, holding far down its rough lap this vale of beauty of meadow and grove and river,— such tide of feel- ing, such stoppage of ordinary emotions comes at rare intervals in any life. It was the confrontal of God face to face, as in great danger, in solemn, sud- den death. 4t was Niagara, magnified. All that was mortal shrank back, all that was immortal swept to the front and bent down in awe. We sat till the rich elements of beauty came out of the majesty and the desolation, and then, eager to get 224 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. WM nearer, pressed tired horses down the steep, rough path into the Valley. And here we have wantlered and wondered and worshiped for four days. Under sunshine and shadow ; by rich, mellow moonlight ; by stars opening double wide their eager eyes ; through a peculiar August haze, delicate, glowing, creamy, yet hardly perceptible as a distinct element,— the New England Indian summer haze doubly refined,— by morning and evening twilight, across camp fires, up from beds upon the ground through all the watches of the night, have we seen these, the great natural wonders and beauties of this western world. In- deed, it is not too much to say that no so limited space in all the known world offers such majestic and impressive beauty. Niagara alone divides hon- ors with it in America. Only the whole of Switzer- land can surpass it,— no one scene in all the Alps can match this before me now in the things that mark the memory and impress all- the senses for beauty and for sublimity. The one distinguishing feature is a double wall of perpendicular granite, rising from a half a mile to a mile in hight, and inclosing a valley not more than half a mile in width on the average, and from ten to fifteen miles in length. It is a fissure, a chasm, rather than a valley, in solid rock mountains ; there is not breadth enough in it for even one of its walls to lie down ; and yet it ofMs all the fer- tility, all the beauties of a rich valley. There is meadow with thick grass ; there are groves of pine and oak, the former exquisite in form and majestic in size, ri drcd and birch, ba> shrubs; j violet an( skies can cant field pine and find a fai and out a and trans air leaves polished deep poo holding 1 brook tr< the shrul Valley ai variety a: but they numbers, and swe< as those Now i sharp, or irregular granite i and Hob The col( drab or soft. In is dark 1 THE VERDURE OF THE VALLEY. 225 he Steep, rough and wondered Fnder sunshine ilight ; by stars yes; through a ing, creamy, yet nent, — the New Dly refined, — by is camp fires, up I all the watches lie great natural ern world. In- it no so limited s such majestic one divides hon- rhole of Switzer- i in all the Alps the things that I'the senses for is a double wall >m a half a mile valley not more ^rerage, and from It is a fissure, a rock mountains ; for even one of )fMs all the fer- ^alley. There is re groves of pine jrm and majestic 1 in size, rising often to two hundred and two hun- dred and fifty feet ; there arc thickets of willow and birch, bay trees and dogwood, and various flowering shrubs ; primrose and cowslip and golden rod and violet and painted cup, more delicate than eastern skies can welcome, make gay garden of all the va- cant fields now in August; the aroma of mint, of pine and fir. of flower loads the air; the fern family find a familiar home everywhere ; and winding in and out among all flows the Merced River, so pure and transparent that you can hardly tell where the air leaves off" and the water begins, rolling rapid over polished stones or soft £ mds, or staying in wide, deep pools that invite the bather and the boat, and holding trout only less rich and dainty than the brook trout of New England. The soil, the trees, the shrubs, the grasses and the flowers of this little Valley are much the same in general character and variety as those of your Connecticut River valleys ; but they are richer in development and greater in numbers. They borrow of the mountain fecundity and sweetness ; and they are fed by summer rains as those of other California valleys rarely are. Now imagine, — can you.'— rising up, sheer and sharp, on each side of this line of fertile beauty, irregularly-flowing and variously-crowned walls of granite rock, thrice as high as your Mounts Tom and Holyoke, twice as high as Berkshire's Graylock. The color of the rock is most varied. A grayish drab or yellow is the dominant shade, warm and soft. In large spots, it whitens out ; and again it is dark and discolorel as if by long exposure to io» IS ■«';i! 226 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. rain and snow and^wind. Sometimes the light and dark shades are thrown into quick centrist on a single wall, and you know where the Zebra and Dr. Bellows' church were borrowed from. More varied and exquisite still are the shapes into which the rocks are thrown. The one gie. t conspicuous object of the Valley is a massive, two-sided wall, standing out into and over the meadow, yellowish- gray in color, and rising up into the air unbroken, square, perpendicular, for ftill three-quarters of a mile. It bears in Spanish and Indian the name of the Gre ••. Jehovah ; and it is easy to believe that it was an jbject of worship by the barbarians, as it is not difficult for civilization to recognize the Infinite in it, and impossible not to feel awed and humbled in its presence. In other places these mountain walls of rock take similar and only less majestic shape ; while as fre- quently thej assume more poetical and fantastic forms. Here and there are grand massive domes, as perfect in shape as your State-house dome, and bigger than the entire of a dozen State-houses. The highest rock of the Valley is a perfect half- dome, split sharp and square in the middle, and rising almost a mile or near five thousand feet,— as high as Mount Washington is above the level of the sea, — over the little lake which perfectly mirrors its majestic form at its foot. Perfect pyramids take their places in the wall ; then these pyramids come in families, and mount away one after and above the other, as " The Three Brothers." " The Cathe- dral Rocks" and "The Cathedral Spires" unite the 1 great n form of ^nd coL them, tl cathedr but bat The sloping times stretchi out of arches shelves able cr pearinj wall; £ anothe columr face; s ley lik< and si shapes massiv great r the we ments, house low. Ove ter ou h'ghei thousa ■■^^" NT. les the light and k contrast on a I the Zebra and ed from. More liapes into which 1 e< t conspicuous !, two-sided wall, :adow, yellowish- :he air unbroken, ree-quarters of a dian the name of to believe that it larbarians, as it is gnize the Infinite ved and humbled walls of rock take ipe ; while as fre- cal and fantastic d massive domes, -house dome, and zen State-houses, is a perfect half- i the middle, and 2 thousand feet, — above the level of h perfectly mirrors feet pyramids take ;se pyramids come t after and above rs." "The Cathe- 1 Spires" unite the THE MONARCH ROCKS. 227 great impressiveness, the beauty and the fantastic form of the Gothic architecture. From their shape .and color alike, it is easy to imagine, in looking iipon them, that you are under the ruins of an old Gothic cathedral, to which tjiose of Cologne and Milan are but baby-houses. The most common form of the rocks is a slightly sloping bare wall, lying in long, dizzy sweeps, some- times Horizontal, sometimes perpendicular, and stretchii g up and up so high as to cheat the Valley out of hours of sunshine every day. Here huge arches are carved on the face ; there long, narrow shelves run midway, along which and in every avail- able crevice, great pines sprout and grow, yet ap- pearing like shrubs against the broad hight of tlie wall : again, the rock lies in thick folds, one upon another, like the hide of a rhinoceros ; occasional columns stand out as if sculptured upon the sur- face ; sometimes it juts out at the top over the Val- ley like the brim of a beaver ; and then it recedes and sharpens to a cone. Many of the various shapes and shades of color in the surface of these massive walls of rock come from the peeling off of great masses of the granite. Frost and ice get into the weak crevices, and blast out huge slices or frag- ments, that fr^ll in boulders, from the size of a great house down to that of an apple, into the valley be- low. Over the sides of the walls pour streams of wa- ter out of narrower valleys still above, and yet h'gher and far away, rise to twelve and thirteen thousand feet the culminating peaks of the Sierra 1 228 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. J., /> Nevadas, with still visible fields of melting suovs. All forms and shapes and colors of majesty and beaflty cluster around this narrow spot ; it seem^ created the home of all that is richest in inspiration for the heroic in life, for poetry^ for painting, for im- aginative religion. The Water-falls of the Valley, though a lesser inci- dent in all its attractions, offer much that is marvel- ous and beautiftil. This, however, is the season of their feeblest power. It is in May and June, when their fountains are freshest, that they appear at their best, and assume their proper place in the grand panorama of beauty and sublimity. In the main portion of the Valley, the Bridal Vail is the first con- spicuous fall,— now a dainty rivulet starting over a precipice nine hundred feet high, but nearly all lost at once in delicate spray that, sways and scatters in the light breeze, and fastens upon the wall, as sign of its being and its beauty, the fabled rainbow of promise. The name of this fall is well chosen ; it is type of the delicate gauze, floating and illusory, by which brides delight to hide their blushes and give mystery to their charms. Farther up, before the hotel, you see the Yosemite Fall, perhaps twice the size in volume of the Bridal Vail, but distin- guished for its hight,— the greatest bight of any water-fall yet discovered in the world. It is broken about two-thirds the way down its high wall of rock by projecting masses of the mountain, giving it sev- eral hundred feet of cataract passage ; but counting its whole fall from top to bottom, it is two thousand six hundred feet in hight, which is onlv fifteen times as high 1 ribbon c delicate season, ' down, it wonderf The> or three in by tl these, tl upper f( and fift) points 1 fall is Ci hight wi exquisit nomena name of into a J half wa; ing wall keep th( of foam there is cinating in Wate culiar c water b sheet, r beginni rock, ea ing of 1 THE VERNAL AND NEVADA FALLS. 229 nelting suovs. if majesty and spot; it seeing t in inspiration ainting, for im- gh a lesser inci- that is marvel- s the season of ind June, when appear at their e in the grand In the main is the first con- starting over a it nearly all lost and scatters in he wall, as sign )led rainbow of well chosen; it ng and illusory, eir blushes and rther up, before 11, perhaps twice Vail, but distin- st hight of any Id. It is broken [ligh wall of rock .in, giving it sev- je; but counting is two thousand )nlv fifteen times as high as Niagara Falls ! Now, it is a mere silvery ribbon of spray, shooting down its long passage in delicate rockets of whitened foam. Earlier in the season, when ten times the volume of water pours down, it must, indeed, be a feature of fpscinating, wonderful beauty. The Valley above this point .separates into two or three narrow canyons, and these are soon walled in by the uprising rocks. At the end of one of these, the main branch of the river falls from its upper fountains over two walls, one three hundred and fifty feet high and the other seven hundred, at points half a mile apart. The lower and shorter fall is called the Vernal, and pours down its whole hight without a break, and forms at the base a most exquisite circular rainbow, one of the rarest phe- nomena in all hature. The upper fall bears the name of Nevada, breaks as it comes over its crest into a grand blossom of spray, and strikes, about half way down its seven hundred feet, the obtrud- ing wall, which thence offers just sufficient slope to keep the water and carry it in chasing, circling lines of foam to the bottom. This is the fall of falls, — there is no rival to it here in exquisite, various, fas- cinating beauty; and Switzerland, which abounds in Water-falls of like type, holds none of such pe- culiar charms. Not a drop of the rich stream of water but is white in its whole passage, — it is one sheet, rather one grand lace-work of spray from beginning to end. As it sweeps down its plane of rock, each drop all distinct, all alive, there is noth- ing of human art that you can compare it with but *■■! 330 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. innumerable and snow-white point-lace collars and capes; as much more delicate and beaut:ft.l and perfect, however, as Nature ever is than Art. tor half the distance between the two falls, the river runs swift over a solid plane of granite, clean and smooth as ice, as if Neptune was on a grand slidmg- down hill frolic. e ^ *u^ The excursion to this head of the chasm from the stopping-place below is through narrow defiles, over fallen rocks, up the sides of precipices, and over perpendicular walls by ladders, for a total distance of about four miles, and is the most difficu t and fatiguing one that confronts the visitor; but both in L beauty of its Water-falls, and the new and rare shapes of rock scenery that it offers it is most richly compensating, and never should be omitted^ The journey hither from San Ftancisco is bc.h a tedious and an expensive one. and so a barrier to the extensive popular enjoyment of the rare works of nature here gathered. But the number of visi- tors is rapidly increasing; last year there were in all but one hundred, and already this season over three hundred persons have come into the Valley. Congress has ceded the territory of the Valley to the State of California for reservation and preser- vation as a spot for public resort and popular enjoy- ment; and a laudable and promising effort is now making, under the lead of Mr. Frederick Law Olm- sted, the manager of the Mariposa estate, to secure an appropriation from the State treasury for improv- ing the means of access, laying out paths among its beauties, and providing cheap yet agreeable accom- THE JOURNEY TO THE YOSEMITE. 231 lace collars and 1 beautiful and than Art. For . falls, the river anite, clean and a grand sliding- ! chasm from the TOW defiles, over ipices, and over a total distance ost difficult and 'isitor; but both nd the new and offers, it is most lould be omitted, i'tancisco is be .h id so a barrier to )f the rare works J number of visi- ;ar there were in this season over 2 into the Valley, r of the Valley to ation and preser- ind popular enjoy- sing effort is now ederick Law Olm- sa estate, to secure easury for improv- ut paths among its t agreeable accom- modations for visitors. This wise cession and dedi- cation by Congress, and proposed improvement by California, also includes the nearest of the groves of Big Trees, which is to be similarly held and pro- tected for the public benefit, and furnishes an ad- mirable example for other objects of natural curi- osity and popular interest all over the Union. New York should preserve for popular use both Niagara Falls and its neighborhood and a generous section of her famous Adirondacks, and Maine one of her lakes and its surrounding woods. The first stage of the journey to the Yosemite is by steamboat to Stockton, up the Sacramento and San Joaquin Rivers, one hundred and twenty-6"e miles. Next was a stage ride of a day and a half (one hundred miles) up the San Joaquin valley, over now arid plains, waiting for irrigation to be produc- tive, and turning next tc the east, among the foot- hills of the Sierra Nevadas, along the valleys of the tributaries of the San Joaquin, and into and through Mariposa County, seventy square miles of which constitute the celebrated Mariposa estate of Gen- eral Fremont. Here, at a point near the village of Mariposa, we came to the end of the stage road, and entered upon forty miles of horseback riding, so much farther into the bowels of the Sierras, in order to reach the Happy Valley. Along a nar- row trail, climbing up and down steep mountains, by and through close defiles, through continuous forests of majestic pines and firs, rich with yellow- green mosses, up to six and eight thousand feet above the sea level, we rode in single file, — a part t *!ii 232 ACROSS THE QDNTINENT. Ill;" W 'M 'X M b of the way by a moonlight that lent indcscribal >-J picturesqueness and fascination to forest and ravine, besides frequent doubt as to the trail ;— every hour a joy, every hour a fatigue, full of soreness and dirt and merriment; eager for the end, but enjoying every moment of the novel experience, every long mile of the rare road. Our party had swollen to seventeen, t'le largest that had ever made the trip, and included five ladies. We had Law Olmsted, creator of New York Central Park, and organizer of the Sanitary Commission; Mr. Ashburner of the Geological Survey corps; Boston lawyers; San Francisco journalists ; wit, grace, beauty. We exhausted all the horses of the kingdom of Fremont, and created famine in our path. Lodgings were abundant, however, for whom house and tent did not hold, the wide expanse of heaven safely covered, and the hay-stack warmed. The out-door beds, indeed, came to be at a premium ; for in the dry,-pure air of this region, there is not only no harm, but actual health in sleeping upon the ground either under tents or wholly in the open air. The mountain pastures,— scattered meadows rich at this season with a vernal green,— furnish mutton sweeter and richer than even English breeders or butchers can give you; the forests yielded their deer, and the rivers their trout to our appetites ; the valley has its one vegetable garden,— so that, however our im- mediate successors shall fare, we have had no com- plaint to make of the commissary department. Our companions from San Francisco proved rich in song overflow lery; ar "kept n we serci pined fc soul ove dayofju helped ' from th( possibl)! and dirt ceremoj is 6ver, and coi see the save in of infin The valley i: the ton tcry of it Yo-s( Yo-sem probabl reigned treat, a the nat] The fo( eye of wonder the In( THE NAME OF THE VALLEY. 233 indcscribal'-J •st and ravine, ; — every hour cness and dirt but enjoying cc, every long en, t'le largest included five reator of New f the Sanitary the Geological 5an Francisco 3 exhausted all nt, and created rere abundant, id not hold, the ^ered, and the beds, indeed, he dry,-pure air tarm, but actual d either under The mountain at this season on sweeter and ar butchers can r deer, and the the valley has lowever our im- ve had no com- epartment. SCO proved rich in song and sentiment; good-nature flowed and overflowed ; fatigue was forgotten in joke and rail- lery ; and digestion aided by sturdy laughter. We "kept marching through Georgia" with Sherman; we serenaded the "sweet lady" till she must have pined for ;i chance to sleep ; we put John Brown's soul over its familiar road at least twice a day ; had "a day of jubilo" with our colored brothers equally often; helped " the turkey gobbler to yank the grasshopper from the sweet potato vine " oftcner than he could possibly have been hungry ; grew steadily barbaric and dirty ; laughed at dignity ; and voted form and ceremony a nuisance. But our week in the woods is 6ver, and we turn our faces towards civilization and conformity to-morrow. We shall be glad to see the washerwoman, but we lament that no more, save in memory, shall these eyes behold these scenes of infinite beauty and sublimity. The name that has attached to this beautiful valley is both unique and euphonious. It rolls off the tongue most liquidly when you get the mas- tery of its pronunciation. Most strangers render it Yo-se-mite, or Yo-sem-ite ; but the true style is Yo-sem-i-te. It is Indian for Grizzly Bear, and probably was also the name of a noted chief, who reigned over the Indians in this, their favorite re- treat, and from this chief comes the application of the name to the locality and its marvelous scenery. The foot of white man never trod its limits, — the eye of white man never looked upon its sublime wonders till 185 1, when he came here in pursuit of the Indians, with whom the settlers were then in I. 234 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. w war. The red man had boasted that their retreat was secure; that they had one spot which their en- emies couUl never penetrate, and here they would gather in and enjoy their spoils unmolested. Hut to the white man's revenge was now added the stimulus of curiosity ; and hither he found his way, and, coming to kill and exterminate, he has staid, and will forever henceforth stay, to wonder and worship. There are but two or three settlers in the Valley. One, Mr. Hutchings, keeps a hotel, and can accom- modate a dozen to twenty people at once very com- fortably, and is both enterprising and courteous. There arc only two paths out of the Valley, one over the mountain to the right, to Coulterville, and the other in the opposite direction to Mariposa. Each are simple trails for foot passengers and horses ; and all baggage, all provisions, lumber, etc., have to be packed in on the backs of mules and horses. The mountains close in upon the river so nearly below this spot, that there is no egress or ingress in that way, except for foot travelers, End only with diliiculty to them. Part way in our horseback ride into the Valley, we stopped for a day at a solitary ranch on the ' South Fork of the Merced, and had generous wel- come from its owner, Mr. Galen Clark, an old and intelligent pioneer in this region, and under his pi- lotage saw the reservation of Big Trees near the border line of Mariposa and Fresno counties. They are but a few miles off the direct road to the Yo- semite, and while of the same character, are alike more n than th The la describ lie in : the roil groves within among of sev six hu pine a these ' der of to six to twc hight. side o: name to thi below those diame ferenc hundi NT. hat their retreat which their cn- icre they would nniolestccl. But now added the ic found his way, itc, he has staid, to wonder and ,'rs in the Valley, and can accom- t once very com- <; and courteous, i Valley, one over ilterville, and the Mariposa. Each ;crs and horses ; nbci", etc., have to lules and horses, e river so nearly jress or ingress in :s, 2nd only with z into the Valley, iry ranch on tho lad generous wel- Clark, an old and and under his pi- g Trees near the .0 counties. They :t road to the Yo- laracter, are alike THE SEQUOIA GIGANTEA. 235 more numcrou-s and larger in individual specimens than the grove of Big Trees in Calaveras County. The latter are the ones first discovered and often described, and .ire still those most visited ; but they lie in an adjoining county, and farther away from the route we took to the Yosemite. Other similar groves to both these two have been discovered within a year or two, and .some fifteen or twenty are now known to exist among the forests on the western slopes of the Sierra Nevadas in southern California. They occur along at various points through some hundred miles ; and it is quite likely that many more still will be found in the same range yet farther south. The Big Trees we visited arc scattered in groups among the pine and cedar forests through a space of several miles. The collection numbers about six hundred. East of the Rocky Mountains, their pine and cedar companions, — so common all over these hills and in these valleys, — would be the won- der of the States for size and beauty ; for they grow to six and eight and even ten feet in diameter, and to two hundred and fifty and three hundred feet in hight. But these mammoths sink to pigmies by the side of the Sequoia Gigantea, which is the scientific name applied to the Big Trees proper. They .swell to thirty and forty feet in diameter, and rarely fall below two hundred and fifty feet in hight. Among those we examined are six each over thirty feet in diameter, and from ninety to one hundred in circum- ference ; fifty over sixteen feet in diameter, and two hundred over twelve feet. "The Grizzly Giant," 236 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. which is among the largest and most noteworthy, runs up ninety feet with scarcely perceptible dimi- nution of bulk, and then sends out a branch, itself six feet in diameter. But they are even more impressive for their beauty than their bigness. The bark is an exquisitely light and delicate cinnamon color, fluted up and down the long, straight, slowly-tapering trunk, like Co- rinthian columns in architecture; the top, resting like a cap upon a high, bare mast, is a perfect cone ; and the evergreen leaves wear a bright, light shade, by which the tree can be distinguished from afar in the forest. The wood is a deep, rich red in color, and otherwise marks the similarity of the Big Trees to the species that grows so abundantly on the coast range of mountains through the Pacific States, and known generally as the redwood. Their wood is, however, of a finer grain than their smaller kindred, and both that and the bark, the latter sometimes as much as twenty inches thick, are so light and deli- cate, that the winds and snows of the winter make frequent .wrecks of the tops and upper branches. Many of the largest of these trees are, therefore, shorn of their upper works. One or two of the largest in the grove we visited are wholly blown down, and we rode on horseback through the trunk of an old one, that had been burned out. Many more of the noblest specimens are scarred by fires that have been wantonly built about their trunks, or swept through the forests by accident. The trunk of one huge tree is burned into half a dozen little apartments, making capital provision for a game of hide a nic of Wil the la grouni They were , rose a been i Ninet type c life th( the na ica, of pared, tions 1 Yoseri to the stand derful NT. lost noteworthy, jerceptible dimi- t a branch, itself e for their beauty 1 exquisitely light :d up and down ; trunk, like Co- the top, resting IS a perfect cone ; •ight, light shade, shed from afar in ich red in color, ' of the Big Trees intly on the coast •acific States, and Their wood is, • smaller kindred, tter sometimes as so light and deli- the winter make upper branches. :es are, therefore, le or two of the are wholly blown :hrpugh the trunk imed out. Many e scarred by fires ut their trunks, or dent. The trunk Kalf a dozen little )ion for a game of THE AGE OF THE BIG TREES. 237 hide and seek by children, or for dividing up a pic- nic of older growths into sentimental couples. Wild c Jculations have been made of the ages of the larger of these trees ; but none now upon the ground date back farther than the Christian Era, They began with our Modern Civilization; they were just sprouting when the Star of Bethlehem rose and stood for a sign of its origin; they have been ripening in beauty and power through these Nineteen Centuries ; and they stand forth now, a type of the Majesty and Grace of Him with whose life they are coeval. Certainly they are chief among the natural curiosities and marvels of western Amer- ica, of the known world ; and though not to be roiii- pared, in the impressions they make and the emo- tions they arouse, to the great rock scenery of the Yosemite, which inevitably carries the spectator up to the Infinite Creator and Father of all, they do stand for all that has been claimed for them in won- derful greatness and vnaje«tic beauty. f'M\ LETTER XXIII. THE CHINESE: GRAND DINNER WITH THKM- San Francisco, August i8. I HAVE been waiting before writing of the Chinese in these Pacific States, till my experi- ence of them had culminated in the long-promised grand dinner wi^h their leaders and aristocrats. This came last night, and while I am full of the subject,— shark's fins and resurrected fungus digest slowly,— let me write of this unique and impor' tant element in the population and civilization of this region. There are no fewer than sixty tff eighty thousand Chinamen here. They are scat tered all over the States and Territories of the Coast, and number from one-eighth to one-sixth of the entire population. We began to see them at Austin, in Nevada, and have found them every- where since, in country and city, in the woods, among the mines, north in the British dominions, on the Coast, in the mountains,— everywhere that work is to be done, and money gained by patient, plodding industry. They have been coming over from home since 1852, when was the largest emi- gration, (twenty thousand.) A hundred thousand 'im i^#&m A. THE CHINESE HOUSE SERVANTS. 239 [I. L WITH THKM. .Ncisco, August 18. writing of the , till my experi- he long-promised and aristocrats. I am full of the :ted fungus digest lique and impor' nd civilization of er than sixty t(r They are scat rerritories of the th to one-sixth of m to see them at lund them every- :y, in the woods, British dominions, —everywhere that gained by patient, been coming over s the largest emi- hundred thousand in all have come, but thirty thousand ^to forty thou- sand have gone back. None come really to stay ; they do not identify themselves with the country ; but to get work, to make money, and go back. They never, or very rarely, bring their wives. The Chinese women here are prostitutes, imported as such by those who make a business of satisfying the lust of men. Nor are their customers alto- gether Chinese; base white men patronize their wares as well. Some of these women are taken as "secondary" wives by the Chinese residents, and a sort of family life established ; but, as a general rule, there are no families among them, and few children. The occupations of these people are various. There is hardly anything that they cannot turn their hands to,— the work of women as well as men. They do the washing and ironing for the whole population ; and sprinkle the clothes as they iron them, by squirting water over them in a fine spray from their mouths. Everywhere, in village and town, you see rude signs, informing you that See Hop or Ah Thing or Sam Sing or Wee Lung or Cum Sing wash and iron. How Tie is a doctor, and Hop Chang and Chi Lung keep stores. They are good house servants ; cooks, table-waiters, and nurses ; better, on the whole, than Iri.sh girls, and as cheap,— fifteen to twenty-five dollars a month and board. One element of their usefulness as cooks is their genius for imitation; show them once how to do a thing, and their education is per- fected ; no repetition of the lesson is needed. But \l il 240 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. 1 . s\% 'ii they seem to be more in use as house servants in the country than the city ; they do not share the passion of the Irish girls for herding together, and appear to be content to be alone in a house, in a neighborhood, or a town. Many are vegetable gardeners, too. In this even climate and with this productive sol!, their pains- taking culture, much hoeing and constant watering, makes little ground very fruitful, and they gather in three, four and five crops a year. Their garden patches, in the neighborhood of cities and villages, are always distinguishable from the rougher and more carelessly cultured grounds of their Saxon rivals. The Pacific Railroad is being built by Chi- nese labor; several thousand Chinamen are now rapidly grading the track through the rocks and sands of the Sierra Nevadas,— without them, in- deed, this great work would have to wait for years, or move on with slow, hesitating steps. They can, by their steady industry, do nearly as much in a day, even in this rough labor, as the average of white men, and they cost only about half as much, say thirty dollars a month against fifty dollars. Be- sides, white labor is not to be had in the quantities necessary for such a great job as this. Good farm hands are the Chinese, also ; and in the simpler and routine mechanic arts they have proven adepts ;— there is hardly any branch of labor in which, under proper tuition, they do not or cannot succeed most admirably. The great success of the woolen man- ufacture here is due to the admirable adaptation and comparative cheapness of Chinese labor for the de- tails. T faithful, over. / and twe selves, t the mill are the 1 such ec what Yi Thou gold fie miners, or negi their pr washer while tl with tv the pre be the ambitic everyw in the ( other, ( sharing tocratl Labi need capital we she corned and th we sei )JT. ouse servants in not share the ig together, and in a house, in a »o. In this even sol!, their pains- mstant watering, id they gather in . Their garden ties and villages, ;he rougher and of their Saxon ing built by Chi- inamen are now b the rocks and ithout them, in- to wait for years, teps. They can, ly as much in a i the average of lut half as much, fifty dollars. Be- in the quantities this. Good farm the simpler and proven adepts; — >r in which, under not succeed most the woolen man- )le adaptation and J labor for the de- CHEAPNESS OF CHINESE LABOR. 241 tails. They are quick to learn, quiet, cleanly and faithful, and have no "off days," no sprees to get over. As factory operatives they receive twenty and twenty-five dollars a month, and board them- selves, though quarters are provided for them on the mill grounds. Fish, vegetables, rice and pork are the main food, which is prepared and eaten with such economy that they live for about one-third what Yankee laborers can. Thousands of the Chinese are gleaners in the gold fields. They follow in crowds after the white miners, working and washing over their deserted or neglected sands, and thriving on results that their predecessors would despise. A Chinese gold washer is content with one to two dollars a day ; while the white man starves or moves on disgusted with twice that. A very considerable portion of the present gold production of California must now be the work of Chinese painstaking and moderate ambition. The traveler meets these Chinese miners everywhere on his road through the State ; at work in the deserted ditches, or moving from one to an- other, on foot with their packs, or often in the stage, sharing the seats and paying the price of their aris- tocratic Saxon rivals. Labor, cheap labor, being the one great palpable need of the Pacific States,-far more indeed than capital the want and necessity of their prospenty,- we shoul ' all say that these Chinese would be wel- comed on every hand, their emigration encouraged, and themselves protected by law. Instead of which, we see them the victims of all sorts of prejudice 16 10 m .ill 242 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. and injustice. Ever since they began to come here, even now, it is a disputed question with the public, whether they should not be forbidden our shores. The do not ask or wish for citizenship ; they have no ambition to become voters ; but they are even denied protection in persons and property by the law. Their testimony is inadmissible against the white man ; and, as miners, they are subject to a tax of four dollars a month, or nearly fifty dollars a year, each, for the benefit of the County and State treasuries. Thus ostracized and burdened by the State, they, of course, have been the victims of much meanness and cruelty from individuals. To abuse and cheat a Chinaman ; to rob him ; to kick and cuff him ; even to kill him, have been things not only done with impunity by mean and wicked men, but even with vain glory. Terrible are some of the cases of robbery and wanton maiming and murder reported from the mining districts. Had "John,"— here and in China alike the English and Americans nickname every Chinaman "John,"— a good claim, original or improved, he was ordered to " move on," — it belonged to somebody else. Had he hoarded a pile, he was ordered to disgorge ; and, if he resisted, he was killed. Worse crimes even are known against them ; they have been wantonly assaulted and shot down or stabbed by bad men, as sportsmen would surprise and shoot their game in the woods. There was no risk in such barbarity ; if "John" survived to tell the tale, the- law would not hear him or believe him. Nobody was so low, so miserable, that he did not despise the Chinaman, field, i mon about place demo pie o iNT. ;an to come here, I with the pubUc, Jden our shores, niship ; they have lut they are even [ property by the sible against the are subject to a irly fifty dollars a bounty and State burdened by the n the victims of . individuals. To rob him ; to kick have been things mean and wicked Terrible are some ton maiming and g districts. Had e the English and laman "John," — a he was ordered to lebody else. Had [to disgorge; and, /^orse crimes even ive been wantonly Dbed by bad men, I shoot their game in such barbarity ; ale, the law would fobody was so low, pise the Chinaman, OPPOSITION TO THE CHINESE. 243 and could not outrage him. Ross Browne has an illustration of the status of poor "John," that is quite to the point. A vagabond Indian comes upon a solitary Chinaman, working over the sands of a deserted gulch for gold. " Dish is my land,"— says he,— "you pay me fifty dollar." The poor celestial turns, deprecatingly, saying: "Melican man (Amer- ican) been here, and took all,— no bit left." Indian, irate and fierce,— "D Melican man,— you pay me fifty dollar, or I killee you." . Through a growing elevation of public opinion, and a reactionary experience towards depression, that calls for study of the future, the Califomians are beginning to have a better appreciation of their Chinese immigrants. The demand for them is in- • creasing. The new State, to be built upon manu- factures and agriculture, is seen to need their cheap and reliable labor; and more pains will be taken to attract them to the country. But even now, a man who aspires to be a political leader, till lately a pos- sible United States Senator, and the most widely circulated daily paper of this city, pronounce against th^ Chinese, and would drive them home. Their opposition is based upon the prejudices and jeal- ousy of ignorant white laborers,— the Irish partic- ularly,— who regard the Chinese as rivals in their field, and clothes itself in that cheap talk, so com- mon among the bogus democracy of the East, about this being a "white man's country," and no place for Africans or Asiatics, But our national democratic principle, of welcoming hither the peo- ple of every country and clime, aside, the white 244 ACROSS THE CONThNENT. iili ■U man needs the negro and the Chinaman more than they him ; the poclcef appeal will override the prej- udices of his soul, — and we shall do a sort of rough justice to both classes, because it will pay. The political questions involved in the negro's presence, and pressing so earnestly for solution, do not yet arise with regard to the; Chinese,— perhaps will never be presented. As I have said, the Chinese are ambitious of no political rights, no citizenship, — it is only as our merchants go to China that they come here. Their great care, indeed, is to be bur- ied at home ; they stipulate with anxiety '" r that ; and the great bulk of all who die on these shores are carried back for final interment. There is no ready assimilation of the Chinese with our habits and modes of thought and action. Their simple, narrow though not dull minds h«ve run too long in the old grooves to be easily turned off. They look down even with contempt upon our newer and rougher civilization, regarding us bar- baric in fact, and calling us in their hearts, if not in speech, " the foreign devils." And our conduct to- wards them has inevitably intensified these f1!el- ings,— it has driven them back upon their naturally self-contained natures and habits. So they bring here and retain all their home ways of living and dressing, their old associations and religion. Their streets and quarters in town and city are China reproduced, unalleviated. Christian missionaries make small inroads among them. There is an in- telligent and faithful one here (Rev. Mr. Looniis,) who has an attractive chapel and school, but his fol- NT. laman more than )vcrride the prej- a sort of rough t will pay. The negro's presence, ition, do not yet (e, — perhaps will said, the Chinese s, no citizenship, ) China that they eed, is to be bur- anxiety '" r that ; J on these shores it. 1 of the Chinese aught and action. dull minds h«.ve » be easily turned ontempt upon our ■egarding us bar- ir hearts, if not in id our conduct to- isified these ffiel- on their naturally I. So they bring ^ays of living and d religion. Their id city are China itian missionaries . There is an in- R.ev. Mr. Looniis,) school, but his fol- • CHINESE RELIGION AND VICES. 245 lowers are few. and not rapidly increasing. But he and his predecessors and assistants have been and are doing a good work in teaching the two diverse races to better understand each other and in .bow- ing them how they can be of value to one another. They have been the constant and urgent advocates of the personal rights of the Chinese. The religion of these people is a cheap, showy idolatry, with apparently nothing like fanaticism m it, and not a very deep hold in itself on their na- tures. "Josh" is their god or idol, and the "Josh houses are small affairs, fitted up with images and altars a good deal after tV stvle of cheap Catholic churches in Europe. Th* -r v cle civilization im- presses me as a low, d: -iplirec., perfected, sensu- ous sensualism. Everything in their life and their habits seems cut and dried like their food. There IS no sign of that abandonment to an emotion, to a passion, good or ^d. that marks the western races Their great vice is gambling ; that is going on constantly in their houses and shops ; and com- mercial women and barbaric music minister to its indulgence. Cheap lotteries are a common form of this passion. Opium-smoking ranks next; and this is believed to be indulged in more extensively among them here than at home, since there is less restraint from relatives and authorities, and the means of procuring the article are greater. The wildly brilliant eye, the thin, haggard face, and the broken nervous system betray the victim to opium- smoking; and all tense, all excited, staring m eye and expression, he was almost a frightful object, as i! 246 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. TI] '■'V JJ we peered in through the smoke of his half-lighted little room, and saw him lying on his mat in the midst of his fatal enjoyment, But as laborers in our manufactories and as ser- vants in our houses, beside their constant contact with our life and industry otherwise, these emi- grants from the East cannot fail to get enlargement of ideas, freedom and novelty of action, and famil- iarity with and then preference for our higher civil- ization. Slowly and hardly but still surely this work must go on; and their constant going back and forth between here and China must also trans- plant new elements of thought and action into the home circles. Thus it is that we may hope and expect to reach this great people with the influ- ences of our better and higher life. It is through modification and revolution in materialities, in man- ner of living, in manner of doing, that we shall pave the way for our thought and our religion. Our missionaries to the Five Points have learned to attack first with soap and water and clean clothes. The Chinese that come here are unconsciously be- sieged at first with better food and more of it than they have at home. The bath-house and^ the res- taurant are the avant couriers of the Christian civ- ilization. The Chinese that come to these States are among the best of the peasantry from the country about Canton and Hong Kong. None of them are the miserable coolies that have been imported by the English to their Indian colonies as farm laborers. They associate themselves here into companies, ENT. • )f his half-lighted n his mat in the tories and as ser- constant contact rwise, these emi- get enlargement action, and famil- r our higher civil- t still surely this istant going back a must also trans- nd action into the ve may hope and le with the influ- ife. It is through iterialities, in man- ing, that we shall and our religion. )ints have learned r and clean clothes, unconsciously he- ld more of it than louse and the res- ■ the Christian civ- e States are among the country about le of them are the n imported by the s as farm laborers. e into companies, THE CHINESE VS. THE IRISH AND AFRICAN. 247 based upon the village or neighborhood from which Ihcy come at home. These companies have head- quarters in San Francisco; their presidents arc men of high intelligence and character; and their office is to afford a temporary refuge for all who be- long to their^odies, to assist them to work, to pro- tect them against wrong, and send the dead back to their kindred at home. Beside these organiza- tions, there are guilds or trade associations among the Chinese engaged in different occupations. Thus the laundry-men and the cigar-makers have organi- zations, with heavy fees from the members, power over the common interests of the business, and an occasional festivity. The impressions these people make upon the American mind, after close observation of their habits, are very mixed and contradictory. They unite to many of the attainments and knowledge of the highest civilization, in some of which they are models for ourselves, many of the incidents and most of the ignorance of a simple barbarism It may yet prove that we have as much to learn from them as they from us. Certainly here in this great field, this western half of our continental Nation, their diversified labor is a blessing and a neces- sity It is all, perhaps more even, than the Irish and the Africans have been and are to our east- ern wealth and progress. At the first, at least, they have greater adaptability and perfection than "either of these classes of laborers, to whom we are so intimately and sometimes painfully accus- tomed. ,ii1 : 1r ACROSS THE CONUNENT. There arc quite ^ mimbcr of heavy mercantile houses here in the huiuls of the Chinese. The managers are intelUgent, superior men. Tiieir busi- ness is in suppUes for their countrymen and in teas and silks and curiosities for the Americans. They import by the hundreds of thousands, even millions, yearly ; and their rei)Utation for fair and honest deal- ing is above that of the American merchants gen- erally. These are the men, with the presidents of the six companies, into which the whole Chinese population is organized, as I have described, with whom Mr. Colfa.x and his friends dined last night. There were formalities and negotiations enough in the preliminary arrangements of the entertainment to have sufficed for a pacification of Kentucky poli- tics, or the making of a new map of Europe ; but when these were finally adjusted, questions of pre- cedence among the Chinese settled, and a proper choice made among the many Americans who were eager to be bidden to the feast, all went as smooth as a town school examination that the teacher has been drilling for a month previous. The party numbered from fifty to sixty, half Chi- nese, half white folks. The dinner was given in the second story of a Chinese restaurant, in a lead- mg street of the city. Our hosts were fine-looking men, with impressive manners. While their race generally seems not more than two-thirds the size of our American men, these were nearly if not quite as tall and stout as their guests. Their eyes and their faces beamed with intelligence, and they were quick to perceive everything, and alert and an fait My nar My fall He smi tio fasli My no I.ittee Thatn No go That 1( Chop-( That r My on Ili-yal Too pi No cai So fas He My kr Catch iNT. heavy mercantile e Chinese. The nen. Tiieir busi- •ymen and in teas mericans. They ids, even milUons, r and honest deal- \ merchants gen- the presidents of 10 whole Chinese c described, with dined last night. iations enough in ;he entertainment of Kentucky poli- p of Europe ; but questions of pre- led, and a proper lericans who were 11 went as smooth ,t the teacher has s. to sixty, half Chi- ner was given in taurant, in a lead- were fine-looking While their race wo-thirds the size nearly if not quite Their eyes and ice, and they were 1 alert and au fait THE CHINESE "PIGEON-ENGLISH. 249 in all courtesies and politeness. An interpreter was present for the heavy talking ; but most of our Chi- nese entertainers spoke a little linglish, and we got on well enough so far as that was concerned ; though handshaking and bowing and scraping and a general flexibility of countenance, bodies and limbs had a very large share of the conversation to i)cr- form. Neither here nor in China is it common for the Knglish and Americans to learn the Chinese language. The Chinese can and do more readily acquire ours, sufficiently at least for all business in- tercourse. Their broken or "pigeon" English, as it is called, is often very grotesque, and always very simple. Here is a specimen— a "pigeon-English" rendering of " My name is Nerval," etc. : — My namce being Norval topside that Glampian Hillee, My father you sabcc my father, makee pay chow-chow he sheep. He smallo hcartce man, too muchee take care that dolla, gallo? So fashion he wantchee keep my, counta one piece chilo stope he own side. My no wantchee long that largee mandoH, go Icnockee alia man ; I.ittee turn Josa pay my what thing my father no like pay That mourn last nightee get up loune, alia same my hat. No go full up, no got square ; that plenty piece That lobbie man, too muchee qui-si, alia same that tiger. Chop-chop come down that hillee, catchie that sheep long that cow, That man, custom take care, too muchie quick lun away. My one piecie owne spee eye, look see that ladlone man what side he walkee, Ili-yah I No good chancie, findie he, lun catchie my flew i Too piecie loon choon lun catchie that lobbie man ! he No can walkee welly quick, he pocket too much full up. So fashion knockee he largee. He head m. n no got shutte far My knockie he head, Hi-yah ! my No. I strong man, Catchie he jacket, long he toousa, galo 1 You likee look see ? II* 250 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. :\ ;i. My no likee takee care that sheep, so fashion my hear /ou got fightee this side. My takee one servant, come your country, come helpic you, He heart all same cow, too muchie fear lun away. Masquie, Joss take care pay my come you house. We were seated for the dinner around little round tables, six to nine at the table, and hosts and guests evenly mixed. There was a profusion of elegant China dishes on each table ; each guest had two or three piates and saucers, all delicate and small. Choice sauces, pickles, sweetmeats and nuts were plentifully scattered about. Each guest had a sau- cer of flowers, a China spoon or bowl with a handle, and a pair of chop-sticks, little round and smooth ivory sticks about six inches long. Chi Sing-Tong, President of the San Yup Company, presided at Mr. Colfax's table. Now the meal began. It consisted of three dif- ferent courses, or dinners rather, between which was a recess of half an hour, when we retired to an ante- room, smoked and talked, and listened to the simple, rough, barbaric music from coarse guitar, viol drum, and violin, and meanwhile the tables were reset and new food provided. Each course or dinner comprised a dozen to twenty different dishes, served generally one at a time, though sometimes two were brought on at once. There were no joints, nothing to be carved. Every article of food was brought on in quart bowls, in a sort of hash fo-.m. We dove into it with our chop-sticks, which, well handled, took up about a mouthful, and, transferring this to our plates, worked the cl moutl taste relish hundi petite sticks could vided also I a bit same into 1 alwai Th first > fins i soup wate soup ban a seen in s( penc men agl sedt eyei arti( real and hire !NT. lion my hear /ou got me helpie you, .way. >use. round little round hosts and guests fusion of elegant guest had two or licate and small. ts and nuts were I guest had a sau- jwl with a handle, ound and smooth Chi Sing-Tong, ly, presided at Mr. listed of three dif- letween which was retired to an ante- aned to the simple, ; guitar, viol drum, )les were reset and )rised a dozen to generally one at a 2re brought on at :hing to be carved. : on in quart bowls, ve into it with our [, took up about a ) our plates, worked THE CHOP-STICKS, AND THE FOOD. 2$ I the chop-sticks again to get it or parts of it to our mouths No one seemed to take more than a single taste or mouthful of each dish ; so that, even if one relished the food, it would need something Iikc a hundred different dishes to satisfy an ordinary ap- petite. Some of us took very readily to the chop- sticks; others did not,-perhaps were glad they could not; and for these a Yankee fork was pro- vided, and our Chinese neighbors at the table were also prompt to offer their own chop-sticks to place a bit of each dish upon our plates. But as these same chop-sticks were also used to convey food into the mouths of the Chinese, the service did not always add to the relish of the food. These were the principal dishes served for the first courle, and in the order named : Fried shark s fins and grated ham, stewed pigeon with bamboo soup, fish sinews with ham, stewed chicken with water-cress, sea-weed, stewed ducks and, bamboo soup, sponge cake, omelet cake, flower cake and banana fritters, bird-nest soup, tea. The meats seemed all alike; they had been dried or preserved In some way; were cut up into mouthfuls, and de- pended for all savoriness upon their accompani- ments The sea-weed, shark's fins and the like had a glutinous sort of taste; not repulsive, nor very seductive. The sweets were very delicate, but like everything else had a very artificial flavor; every article, indeed, seemed to have had its original and real taste and strength dried or cooked out of it, and a common Chinese flavor put into it. The bird-nest soup looked and tasted somewhat as a i 252 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. very delicate vermicelli soup does. The tea was delicious,— it was served without milk or sugar, did not need any such amelioration, and was very re- freshing. Evidently it was made from the most delicate leaves or flowers of the tea plant, and had escaped all vulgar steeping or boiling. ■ During the first recess, the presidents of the com- panies, — the chief entertainers,— took their leave, and the merchants assumed the post of leading hosts ; such being the fashion of the people. The second dinner opened with cold tea, and a white, rose-scented liquor, very strong, and served in tiny cups, and went on with lichens and a fungus-like moss, more shark's fins, stewed chestnuts and chick- ens, Chinese oysters, yellow and resurrected from the dried stage, more fungus stewed, a stew of flour and white nuts, stewed mutton, roast ducks, rice soup, rice and ducks' eggs and pickled cucumbers, ham and chicken soup. Between the second and third parts, there was an exchange of compliment- ary speeches by the head Chinaman and Mr. Col- fax, at which the interpreter had to officiate. The third and last course consisted of a great variety of fresh fruits ; and the unique entertainment ended about eleven o'clock, after a sitting of full five hours. The American resident guests ^urnished champagne and claret, and our Chinese nosts, in- variably at the entrance and departure of earh disji, invited us, with a gracious bow, to a sip thtieof, in the which they all faithfully joined themselves. The dinner was unquestionably a most magnifi- cent one after the Chinese standard; the dishes were n thing ' curiou: rarest fax on satisfa not se princi] do as ^eriati sonal to be the tz unive tite; incap with ; when The I touch door bring violai lice ' polit( the ( neig] Afri me c few door were I MM, mm- i |NT. The tea was ilk or sugar, did lid was very re- from the most [a plant, and had PS- ents of the corn- took their leave, post of leading he people. The ca, and a white, id served in tiny nd a fungus-like stnuts and chick- resurrected from :d, a stew of flour 'oast ducks, rice :kled cucumbers, I the second and e of compliment- lan and Mr. Col- officiate. The 1 great variety of rtainment ended ting of full five guests ^urnished hinese nosts, in- ture of each dish, a sip thticof, in themselves, a most magnifi- ard; the dishes A RESCUE BY THE POLICE. 'S3 were many of them rare and expensive ; and every- thing was served in elegance and taste. It was a curious and interesting expetience, and one of the rarest of the many courtesies extended to Mr. Col- fax on this coast. But as to any real gastronomic satisfaction to be derived from it, I certainly "did not see it," Governor Bross's fidelity to the great principle of "when you are among the Romans to do as the Romans do," led him to take the meal ^eriatim, and eat of everything ; but my own per- sonal experience is perhaps the best commentary to be made upon the meal, as a meal. I went to the table weak and hungry ; but I found the one universal odor and flavor soon destroyed all appe- tite ; and I fell back resignedly on a constitutional incapacity to use the chop-sticks, and was sitting with a grim politeness through dinner number two, when there came an angel in disguise to my relief. The urbane chief of police of the city appeared and touched my shoulder : " There is a gentleman at the door who wishes to see you, and would have you bring your hat and coat." There were visions of violated city ordinances and "assisting" at the po- lice court next morning. I thought, too, what a polite way this man has of arresting a stranger to the city. But, bowing my excuses to my pig-tail neighbor, I went joyfully to the unknown tribunal. A friend, a leading banker, who had sat opposite to me during the evening, and had been called out a few moments before, welcomed n^e at the street door with : " B , I knew you were suffering, and were hungry — let us go and get something to eat — 254 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. a good square meal ! " So we crossed to an Ameri- can restaurant ; the lost appetite came back ; and mutton chops, squabs, fried potatoes and a bottle of champagne soon restored me. My friend in- sisted that the second course of the Chinese dinner was only tne first warmed over, and that that was the object of the recess. However that might be,— this is how I went to the grand Chinese dinner, and went out, when it was two-thirds over, and "got something to eat." • THE agric ular; weal org! dant 1 ENT. ssed to an Ameri- came back; and toes and a bottle My friend in- le Chinese dinner md that that was r that might be,~- linese dinner, and Is over, and "got • LETTER XXIV. ^ THE GREAT THEME: THE PACIFIC RAILROAD. San Francisco, August 20. To feel the importance of the Pacific Railroad, to measure the urgency of its early completion, to become impatient with government and contractor at every delay in the work, you must come across the Plains and the Mountains to the Pacific Loast. Then you will see half a Continent waitmg for its vivifying influences. You will witness a 4D0undless agriculture, fickle and hesitating for lack of the reg- ukr markets this would give. You will find mineral wealth, immeasurable, locked up, wastefully worked, or gambled away, until this shall open to it abun- dant labor, cheap capital, wood, water, science, ready ^ oversight, steadiness of production,-ever- thing that shall make mining a certainty and not a chance You will find the world's commerr.. vi.a India and China eagerly awaiting its oppo . .ties^ You will see an illimitable field for mamu ctures unimproved for want of its stimulus and it.^ -.^van- taoes You will feel h'-arts breaking, see moxv .. struggling slowly upwaid against odds, knr v thai religion languishes ; feel, see and know that all the. 1 t* '; 'AlI^ r I 4 V. ■ If 256 /.CROSS THE CONTINENT. sweetest and finest influences and elements of so- ciety and Christian civilization hunger and suffer for the lack of this quick contact with the Parent and Fountain of all our national life. It is touching to remember that between Plains and Pacific, in country and on coast, on the Colum- bia, on the Colorado, through all our long journey, the first question asked of us by every man and wo- man we have met, — whether rich or poor, high or humble, — has been, " When do you think the Pacific Railroad will be done.^" or, "Why don't or won't the government, now the war is over, put the sol- diers to building this road .' " — and their parting ap- peal and injunction, as well, "Do build this Pacific Road for us as soon as possible, — we wait, every- thing waits for that." Tender-eyed women, hard- fisted men, — ^pioneers, or missionaries, the martyrs and the successful, — all alike feel and speak this sen- .timeat. It is the hunger, the prayer, the hope of all these people. Hunger and prayer and hope for " Home," and what home can bring them, in cheap and ready passage to and from, of reunion with par- ent and brother and sister and friend, of sight of old valley and mountain and wood, of social influ. ence, of esthetic elevation, of worldly stimulus anci prosperity. "Home," they all here call the East It is a touching and pathetic, though almost un^ conscious, tribute. Such an one "is going home next spring;" " I hope to go home another year;" "When I was home last;" "I have never been home since I came out ;" "I am afraid I shall never go home again;" — these and kindred phrases are IS i_ ENT. d elements of so- mnger nnd suffer : with the Parent ife. it between Plains ist, on the Colum- our long journey, very man and wo- i or poor, high or 1 think the Pacific ly do n't or wo n't over, put the sol- i their parting ap- build this Pacific — we wait, every- ^ed women, hard- aries, the martyrs ,nd speak this sen- ayer, the hope of ayer and hope for ng them, in cheap reunion with par- friend, of sight of 3d, of social influ. rldly stimulus and ere call the East hough almost un- e "is going home ae another year;" have never been fraid I shall never ndred phrases are THE nation's need. 257 the current forms of speech. Home is not here, but there. The thought of home is ever rolled, like a sweet morsel, under the tongues of their '° n'ere is large appeal both to the sympathy and foresight of the eastern States. Here is present bond of union and means for perpetuating it. lo build the railroad, and freshen recollection and re- new association of the original emigrants, and to bind by travel and contact the children here with the homes and lives and loves of their parents there : this is the cheapest, surest and sweetest way to pre- serve our nationality, and continue the Republic a unit from ocean to ocean. A sad and severe trial will ensue to the Union if a generation grows up here, that "knows not Joseph." The centrifugal forces will ever be in hot action between the far-separated eastern and western sections of the Nation.- First among the centripetal powers is the Pacific Rail- road, and every year of its delay increases tenfold its burden; every year's postponement weakens in equal degree the influences here by which it shall operate. . What is doing to supply this great want ot Pa- cific progress and civilization and national unity? What are the possibilities and probabilities of the great continental railway? are what you will wish to know from me. Our journey has lain along its most natural commercial route ; we started from its eastern terminus on the Missouri border; we kept in the main line -of population and travel, which it is desirable for it to follow; we finished our ride 17 258 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. upon its beginnings at this end ; and we have every- where had the subject forced upon our thought, and made it constant study. Many of the obstacles to the great work grew feeble in travel over its line. Want of timber, of water, of coal for fuel- the steep grades and high ascents of the two great continental ranges of mountains to be crossed, the Rocky and the Sierras ; and the snows they will accumulate upon the track in the winter months,— these are the suggested and apparent difficulties to the building and operating of the Pacific Railroad. There is plenty of good timber in the mountains ; • and the soft cotton-wccd of the Plains can be kyan- ized (hardened by a chemical process), so as to make sound sleepers and ties. There are sections of many miles, even perhaps of two hundred, over which the timber will have to be hauled ; but the road itself can do this as it progresses,— taking along over the track built to-day the timber and rails for that to be built to-morrow. As to water, artesian wells are sure to find it in the vacant desert stretches, which are neither so long nor so barren of possible water as has been sipposed. The fuel question is perhap? more difficult to solve as yet.* The Sierras wiU furnish wood in abundance, and cheaply, for all the western end; we know there is coal in the Rocky Mountains; and we were told almost everywhere over the en- tire line that it had been, or could undoubtedly be found,— in Kansas, on the Plains, among the hills of the deserts. But suppose the supplies of food for steam have to be carried over a few hundred ENT. nd we have every- 1 our thought, and f the obstacles to avel over its line. ;oal for fuel • the of the two great to be crossed, the J snows they will winter months, — rent difficulties to J Pacific Railroad, in the mountains; lains can be kyan- :ess), so as to make e are sections of wo hundred, over e hauled; but the rogresses, — taking ly the timber and row. As to water, 1 the vacant desert ong nor so barren pposed. 5 more difficult to i furnish wood in the western end; Rocky Mountains; where over the en- ild undoubtedly be ns, among the hills le supplies of food ver a few hundred ROUTES OVER THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 259 miles of the road, east and west from the Sierras and the Rocky Mountains; that is not so hard a matter,— certainly nothing to daunt or hesitate the enterprise. We shall soon learn, tpo, to make steam from petroleum; and that is easily trans- ported for long distances; besides which, prospect- ors are finding it everywhere from Missouri to Pa- cific. Build the road, and the intermediate country will speedily find the means for running it. Now as to difficulties of construction, heavy grades and high mountains, and the winter snows as obstacles to continuous use. The first third of the line, from the Missouri River to the Rocky Mountains, is mere baby-work. Three hundred men will grade it as fast as the iron can be laid. It is a level, natural roadway, with very little bridging, and no want of water. It is a shame all this section is not finished and running already. The first of January, 1867, ought now to be the limit for its completion. From here to Salt Lake, over the Rocky Mountains, there are appar- ently'no greater obstacles to be overcome than your Western Road from Springfield to Albany, the Erie and the Pennsylvania Central have triumphantly and profitably surmounted. There are various con- testing routes ; northerly by the North Platte and the South Pass; by the South Platte and Bndgers Pass, which is the route we traveled m the stage,— or more direct still, from Denver through the pres- ent gold mining region of Colorado by Clear Creek and over the Berthoud Pass ; or again by a kindred route to the last, up Boulder Creek and over Boul- 26o ACROSS THE CONTINENT. r^m der Pass, both these last two entering the " Middle Park" of the Mountains, and through that to the head waters of the Salt Lake Basin. The Herthouci and BntiMri Pr s routes would probably involve higher gu>.< vnti more rock cutting, and in winter deeper snc .nt they would pass through a richer country, avmd the deserts of the north, and save at least one hundred miles of distance. A new road for the overland stages is this very season being cut through the Berthoud Pass route by the help of United States soldiers from Utah ; and the stage line is expected to be transferred to it next spring. But by the Bridger or South Pass routes, the rail- road can surmount the eastern slope of the Rocky Mountains with the greatest ease. Our stage teams trotted up the hardly perceptible grades by the Bridger route without any effort. Coming down^ into Salt Lake Valley, there would be rougher work; but there are several considerable streams along whose banks the track could be brought, I am sure, with no greater labor or expense than has been incurred in a dozen cases by our eastern railroads: From Salt Lake to the Sierra Nevadas are two routes; southerly through the center of Nevada, and striking Austin and Virginia City, the centers of the silver mining region,— which is the present stage and telegraph route,— and northerly by the Humboldt River. The former would pass more directly through the chief present and prospective populations; but it would encounter a dozen or fifteen ranges of hills to be crossed, and find little wood a be mor better ( It is ge way a< always it, Vir branch neighb Now toughc rcachii covere arc m: by the and ai energy Railro get to can a: caster fornia, its de solve nenta! teemi] work profes Coast Lei end tl Coi ENT. jriiig the " Middle rough that to the 1, The Bcrthoud probably involve ing, and in winter is through a richer north, and save at nee. A new road /cry season being route by the help tah ; and the stage to it next spring, ss routes, the rail- lope of the Rocky Our stage teams )le grades by the t. Coming down^ would be rougher risiderable streams )uld be brought, I ■ or expense than ses by our eastern I Nevadas are two center of Nevada, ia City, the centers hich is the present d northerly by the would pass more ;nt and prospective ounter a dozen or 3sed, and find little OVER THE SIERRAS. 261 wood and scant water. The Humboldt route would be more cheaply built, and goes through a naturally better country as to wood, water and fertility of soil. Il is generally conceded to be the true natural road- way across the Continent. The emigration has always taken it. If the railroad is built through it, Virginia City and Austin will be reached by branches dropping down to them through their neighboring valleys. Now we reach the California border, and the toughest part of the work of the railroad,— the high- reaching, far- spreading, rock -fastened, and sno\- covercd Sifrra Nevadas. But the difficulties here are mitigated by plenty of water and timber, and by the near presence of an energetic population, and are already being practically overcome by the energy and perseverance of the California Pacific Railroad organization. I only wish the East would get to Salt Lake with their rail so soon as the West can and will with theirs. It is not gratifying to eastern pride, indeed, to see how much more Cali- fornia, with its scant capital, its scafce labor, and its depressed industry and interests, is doing to solve this great practical problem of the conti- nental railway, than your abounding wealth and teeming populations of the East, with a great net- work of railroads from the Atlantic, all needing and professing to seek an outlet west to the Pacific Coast. Let me state the condition of the work on each end the line. Congress has given princely bounties to the en- 36J ACROSS THE CONTINENT. ¥i )i-^l 'orprise, all that could be expected, everything that was asked. Government bonds arc loaned to it to the amount of sLxteen thousand dollars a mile through the plains and forty-eight thousand dollars a mile in the mountains ; besides which half of all the land each side of the road for twei.ty miles deep is donated outright to the companies doing the work. The Union Pacific Railroad company is recognized at the East, and the Central Pacific Rail- r ..a.i company here, as entitled to this bounty, and ttie respectively authorized to construct the road from their starting points until they meet. The comnanies are further authorized to issue their own bon.'is to an equal amount to those granted by the government, and secure them by a first mortgage; the government loan taking the second place in security. The business of supplying the populations of Col- orado, Utah and Montana,— at least one hundred and fifty thousand persons,— invites the speedy con- struction of the road from the East. This busi- ness for 1 864? is estimated at forty million pounds, and for 1865 at two hundred millions, and employed last year nine thousand wagons, fifty thousand cat- tle sixteen thousand horses and mules and ten thou- sand men as drivers, laborers and guards; and the sum paid for freight in the former year is estimated by one authority at enough to build the railroad the entire distance at a cost of forty-eight thousand dollars the mile! And during the months of May and June, this year, counting both the emigration and the freight trains, there passed west over the JENT. ;d, everything that i are loaned to it and dollars a mile It thousand dollars s which half of all . for twciity miles • companies doing :ailroad company is lentral Pacific Rail- to this bounty, and construct the road [ they meet. The d to issue their own ose granted by the ly a first mortgage ; le second place in ; populations of Col- least one hundred dtes the speedy con- ; East. This busi- arty million pounds, Uions, and employed 5, fifty thousand cat- , mules and ten thou- ind guards ; and the ler year is estimated build the railroad forty-eight thousand the months of May both the emigration >asscd west over the IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) /. 1.0 1.1 ||0 - '""2.2 2.0 140 m 1.25 1.4 III ,.6 ■» 6" ► k. Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. USttO (716) 873-4503 <^ mm:*. t/j $ s' CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CIHM/ICMH Collection de microfiches. Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions / Institut Canadian de microreproductions historiques THE ROAD OVER THE PLAINS. 263 Plains full ten thousand teams and fifty thousand to sixty thousand head of stock, according to data furnished from Fort Laramie and the junction of the overland routes on the Platte River. The ship- ment of supplies for the United States troops on the Plains and in the Mountains this season is alone over eleven million pounds. All these statistics may not be perfectly accurate ; but they have a substantial basis of fact, and with such generous gifts as the government makes, and with such large railway interests behind to be ben- efited by farther extension of railway lines to the west, they would seem to justify and to demand a rapid construction of the road out from the Mis- souri River, especially when for the first five hun- dred to six hundred miles of that road, there is scarcely more required than to scrape a place in the soft soil for sleepers and ties and iron. And yet, though three to four years have passed since the company accepted the bargain of the govern- ment and assumed its responsibilities, not a mile of the main road is running from the Missouri west. The lower branch from Kansas City is open to Lawrence, forty miles, and graded to Topeka, sixty miles; but from Atchison and Omaha there is no iron down, and only small sections graded or half graded. Is it said that by the government flooding the markets with better classes of its securities, there was no sale for the bonds allotted for this work, and so no means for its construction ? The reply :s that no set of men should step forward to accept this 264 ACROSS THK CONTINENT. largess and undertake this enterprise, holding such sure profits in its future, that have not at least a million or two of their own to make a beginning with. Has the war absorbed all labor and capital during these years.? Other railroads have been built meantime, and labor was cheaper on the Plains than in California. Beside, here are six months since the war ended, and the end witnesses no marked progress, no larger activity, than the begin- ning. I know nothing of the men who form the Pacific Railroad Company of the East; I suspect their names are more familiar to Wall street than to the West or the railroad world ; but I do know that all I could see or hear of them and their work, along the route of the continental railway, did not indi- cate either the earnestness or the power that should accompany their position, their responsibilities and their opportunities. After leaving the Missouri River, indeed, they offered no sign of life except in a single small party of engineers in Salt Lake City, who were on a straggling hunt for the best route through the Rocky Mountains, but who seemed to have no proper leadership, and no clear purpose, and in fact confessed that the company had no chief engineer worthy the name or position. Here in California, however, there is more life and progress. Energy and capital are not perhaps the best directed possible ; there has been and still is somewhat of controversy and waste of power as to the true route; but there is earnestness and movement of the right sort, and the track is fast ascci has I trad( mucl lay in Mou amp] and in tl from road the : the : so:n( agaii side, Sacr one theii for 1 thei T road whic The fort) ville taini and imm ' doll: tran H riNENT. jrprise, holding such have not at least a make a beginning all labor and capital railroads have been ;heapcr on the Plains lere are six months e end witnesses no ivity, than the begin- who form the Pacific ist; I suspect their all street than to the ut I do know that all nd their work, along railway, did not indi- ;he power that should ir responsibilities and caving the Missouri sign of life except in ^rs in Salt Lake City, nt for the best route s, but who seemed to id no clear purpose, company had no chief position. ir, there is more life ipital are not perhaps ere has been and still nd waste of power as e is earnestness and and the track is fast T THE ROAD OUT FROM CALIFORNIA. 265 ascending the Sierras on its progress eastward. It has no immediate way business to tempt it but the trade of Nevada with thirty thousand population, — much less, therefore, than that which invites the laying of the rails across the prairies to the Rocky Mountains, — but this business has constructed and amply paid for two fine toll-roads over the Sierras, and was, until a few days ago, building two railroads in their tracks. There being free water carriage from San Francisco to Sacramento, these rival roads (both carriage and rail), have their base at the latter point, and branch off right and left into the mountains, and cross the summit of the latter some thirty or forty miles apart, coming together again at a common point in Nevada on the other side, namely, Virginia City. The distance between Sacramento and Virginia City is about the same, one J undred and sixty miles, by each road ; and their rivalry has given excellent accommodations for travel anc! traffic, and helped to push forward the railroad tracks on both lines. The original and heretofore most popular wagon road was that by Placerville and Lake Tahoe, over which we cAme into the State, as ab ^■'dy described. The railway track on its line is now laid about forty miles from Sacramento or nearly to Placer- ville, which is among the foot-hills of the moun- tains. During the "flush" times of Nevada, 1862 and 1863, the business done over this line was immense ; in the latter year about twelve millions dollars were paid for freights alone,— the cost of transportation being from five t<- ten cents a 12 L, 266 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. pound,— and the tolls on teams, received by the constructors of the wagon road, amounted to six hundred thousand dollars. The charge for a smglc team is about thirty dollars; and in 1864, when the business was much less than before, no less than seven thousand teams passed over this Placerville route; carrying all kinds of food and merchandise and machinery over into Nevada, but coming back nearly empty. As showing how great and wasteful was and still is the cost of doing business in Nevada under such circumstances, it has been carefully estimated that the famous Gould & Curry silver mine at V rcmia City would have saved two millions dollars lA ex- penses in a single year, had a railroad been built and running over the mountains. The production of the mine that year was four millions and a halt of dollars, but its expenses absorbed three millions and a half, leaving only one million profit to stock- holders, against three millions, probably, had there been ready and cheap communication with the San Francisco markets. The staging and freighting over these mountain toll roads are performed in the most perfect style, however. The freight wagons are bigger and stronger than anything ever seen in the East ; gen- erally a smaller one is attached as a tender to the main wagon; ten to twelve large and strong mules or horses, in fine condition, constitute the usual team; and the load ranges from five to ten tons. To each mule in the best teams a large bell is at- tached, and they are trained to keep step to their stai ITINENT. ims, received by the oad, amounted to six 'he charge for a single and in 1864, when tlic 1 before, no less than 1 over this Placerville food and merchandise /ada, but coming back wasteful was and still in Nevada under such arefuUy estimated that silver mine at V''-£rmia millions dollars itt ex- l a railroad been built :ains. The production 3ur millions and a half absorbed three millions million profit to stock- ns, probably, had there lunication witb the San ig over these mountain the most perfect style, igons are bigger and r seen in the East ; gen- ched as a tender to the large and strong mules in, constitute the usual 3 from five to ten tons, teams a large bell is at- ;d to keep step to their TRAVEL AND TRAFFIC OVER THE SIERRAS. 26/ music, and so pull and move uniformly. Frequently the road will be filled with these teams for a quarter and a half mile, and the turning out for them is the only interruption to the steady trot or the grand gallop of the six-horse stage teams that, attached to the best of Concord coaches, usually loaded with passengers, go half-flying over these well-graded mountain roads, three to four each way daily. The stage horses are sleek and fat, gay as larks, changed every ten miles, affd do their work as if they really loved it. The Placerville road is watered through- out nearly its whole line by sprinkling carts, in the same way as the streets of a city are wet in the dry summer season ; and luxurious as this seems and is, — for the dust is otherwise most fearful, — it is found to be the cheapest way of keeping the road itself in good repair. When dry, the heavy teams cut up the track most terribly. But these horses are running away with the loco- motive, \Auch is my main theme to-day. The rival of the Placerville route, though opened since, has won the title and the government bounty of the Pacific Railroad, and has this season pushed its iron track ahead of the former, and so henceforth must have every advantage for both traffic and travel. Indeed, within a few days, its friends have bought a controlling interest in the railway section of the Placerville route, and will probably put a veto upon the construction of the latter beyond that town. It is called the Dutch Flat and Donner Lake route, as well as the Central Pacific Railroad, and lies to the north of the other. Its line was selected by the late \>M I :l 268 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. Mr. T. D. Judah, who has left a very enviable repu- tation in California both for personal integrity and professional ability as an engineer, after a thorough examination of other lines and passes over the mountains ; and having gained, mainly by his in- dorsement, the approval of Congress, and the sup- port and bounty, also, of San Francisc. and Sacra- mento, it has readily achieved these decided advan- tages over its rival, which has been sustained only by private capital and the profits of its toll-road. Mr. Judah, who died after having established the general route of the Pacific Road and secured its indorsement by Congress, was an assistant engineer in the construction of your Connecticut River Rail- road in Massachusetts, and married a Greenfield lady. His reputation is one of the main bulwarks of the friends of his road, in the bitter controversy that has raged between them and the advocate:, of the Placerville route ; and, though this contest now seems nearly over under the triumph of the upper route, many of the most intelligent citizens of the State still contend that the Placerville line is the easiest and safest for the railroad track. Our own superficial examination of the two routes tended to this conclusion, also ; but it is too late, now, to argue thv't question. The Judah or Dutch Flat Route has got the name and the means, and is being pushed over the mountains with commendable vigor and rapidity ; and it is wise for California and the coun- try alike to sustain it, and secure its completion as early as possible. This accomplished, the other may and probably will be extended over into Nevada, and ye 1.. TINENT. a very enviable repu- ersonal integrity and neer, after a thorough ind passes over the sd, mainly by his in- Dngress, and the sup- Francisc^ and Sacra- these decided advan- s been sustained only refits of its toll-road, aving established the Road and secured its s an assistant engineer onnecticut River Rail- married a Greenfield of the main bulwarks the bitter controversy 1 and the advocates, of lOUgh this contest now I triumph of the upper elligent citizens of the Placerville line is the Iroad track. Our own le two routes tended to s too late, now, to argue r Dutch Flat Route has is, and is being pushed ammendable vigor and :alifornia and the coun- ecure its completion as mplished.the other may :d over into Nevada, and TRACK ON THE SUMMIT OF THE SIERRAS. 269 already there is agitation to secure government bounty in its behalf. Our party made a very profitable and interesting excursion over the route of the Central Pacific Road from Sacramento to Donner Lake, on the eastern slope of the mountains, by special train and coaches, and along the working sections on horseback. The track is graded and laid, and trains are running to the new town of Colfax (named for the Speaker), which is fifty-six miles from Sacramento. Grading IS now in active progress on the next two sections, to Dutch Flat, twelve miles, and the Crystal Lake, thirteen miles .farther, with a force of about four thousand laborers, mostly Chinese, Though these sections are through a very rough and rocky coun- try, the work will certainly be done to Dutch Flat by spring, and Crystal Lake earl> next fall. Then the rails are within fifteen miles of the summit of the Sierra.?, The toughest job of the whole line lies in these fifteen miles up, and the three or four miles down to Donner Lake, on the other side. This m.ust hang on for tv/o or three years, it seems to me ; there will be some tunneling, probably, and much hcvy rock-cutting; for several miles along the summit, which is seven thousand feet above the sea level, the road must apparently be cut into a wall of solid rock, and then be covered by a roof to keep off the snows ; — but the later surveys soften the anticipaicJ ^ verity of the work, and the com- pany and its contractors are sanguine of mastering all the difficulties of the s»- nrait sections in two years. 270 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. The wagon-road goes down from the summit to Donncr Lake at the rate of about four hundred feet to the mile, and the railway track will have to be wound in and out on the mountain sides for ten or more miles in order to get ahead two or three, and reach the level of the lake, whence it can be run readily down by the Truckce River into the valleys and plains of Nevada. The road ascends the moun- tains on this side by a very regular and nearly uni- form grade, never exceeding one hundred and five feet to the mile, which is less than the highest grades of the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad, to which the act of Congress limits this road. In going down the other side, no grade will exceed one hundred and five feet, and after reaching Don- ner Lake the grade will be reduced to forty feet. But the company does not purpose to wait for the full construction of the track over the summit be- fore pushing the work on the line beyond. While that is advanced as fast as possible, they will com- mence next spring at Donner Lake and proceed down the mountains and out into and through Ne- vada as rapidly as may be, eager to absorb as much of the whole enterprise, and meet the road commg west at a point as far east as they can. So far the company have used none of the United States bonds or lands granted by Congress in aid of the work. Some two and a half millions in these bonds are now due. The company can issue an equal amount of their own bonds guaranteed by a preceding or first mortgage; but none of these, also, have yet been used. They also have available :i 11 k TINENT. from the summit to out four hundred feet rack will have to be ntain sides for ten or ;ad two or three, and /hence it can be run River into the valleys •ad ascends the moun- ;gular and nearly uni- 3ne hundred and five 2SS than the highest id Ohio Railroad, to limits this road. In no grade will exceed d after reaching Don- reduced to forty feet, lurpose to wait for the : over the summit bc- ; line beyond. While ossible, they will com- ler Lake and proceed ; into and through Ne- Lger to absorb as much meet the road coming i they can. sed none of the United :ed by Congress in aid a half millions in these company can issue an bonds guaranteed by a e; but none of these, 'hey also have available THE FINANCIAL STRENGTH OF THE ROAD. 27 1 a million and a half of other bonds on which the State of California pays seven per cent, interest in gold for twenty years. Here are six millions and a half of good securities now on hand for prosecuting the work, besides what is earned as the road pro- gresses, and the power- to anticipate the issue of their own first mortgage bonds at the rate of forty- eight thousand dollars for a mile of mountains and sixteen thousand dollars for a mile of plain, for one hundred miles in advance of construction. The work so far has been done out of about a million of paid-up stock, and subscriptions of the county of Sacramento of three hundred thousand dollars, the county of Placer of two hundred and fifty thousand dollars, and of San Francisco of four hundred thou- sand dollars, and the profits of that part of the road in running order. Of these sums, nearly '.alf a million is still left, and as the road has gone so far as to substantially secure a monopoly of all the business over the mountains, the profits on its com- pleted section will be constantly increasing. Then, besides all this, there are between eighteen and nineteen millions of the twenty millions capital stock of the road, yet unsubscribed for. Sometime, though not at present, this will be paying property ; and it may suffice even now for the profits of the contractors. The company thus feel strong finan- cially, and though much of their securities are not just now marketable except at a discount, they are confident there need be no further delay for the lack of means, and are increasing their working force upon the road as fast as laborers can be had. Ill 272 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. All the Chinese that offer, or thai can be encouraKeil to emigrate from home, are employed, and it is ex- pected that five thousand will be at work on the road before; the present season closes. These details are very long, but I trust are not altogether tedious or uninteresting. The theme presses itself upon us more deeply, more solemnly, than any one other offered by our journey and its observations. It is pathetic and painful, as I said in the beginning, in the solicitude and anxiety it awakens here among the people, and which we can- not help but share. There is really nothing unrea- sonable in demanding that rails should be laid and trains running over half the line between the Pacific Ocean and the Missouri River in two years and a half, over two-thirds of it another year, and the en- tire distance, unbroken, in five years. There are short sections in the mountains that may require three, or even five years to work them out ; but the great bulk of the way can be graded and laid with rails in three years. The California Pacific railroad company, led by some of the best men in the State, with Ex-Governor Stanford for president, say, calmly and distinctly, in their annual report just published, that they will take their completed line into Salt Lake City in three years from date. I believe they can and will do it, with anything like an easy money and labor market. And it is just as practicable for the road from the East to reach the Rocky Moun- tains in twelve or eighteen months^ and to span these mountains in two years more. Next spring should see as many men at work on the fill i8( anc wa; pic of anc of 1 ha\ of spc sec am I.c mil ma grc sec of ing me her tioi cor TINRNT. FINAL APPEAL FOU TIIK RAILUOAD, 273 at cim be cncouragcil nploycci, and it is c.\- 11 be at work on the I closes. ;, but I trust are not •esting. The theme x'ply, more solemnly, f our journey and its md painful, as I said citude and anxiety it )le, and which we can- really nothing unrea- ils should be laid and le between the Pacific ()r in two years and a ther year, and the en- ve years. There are lins that may require )rk them out ; but the graded and laid with ifornia Pacific railroad best men in the State, • president, say, calmly report just published, npleted line into Salt date. I believe they ig like an easy money just as practicable for ich the Rocky Moun- monthsj and to span . more, many men at work on the eastern line as there will be on the western ; the fall, fifteen to twenty thousand along its entire route ; 1.S67 should count fifty thousand shovels and picks and drills, leveling the paths for this national high- way; and in 1868 the hungry hearts of these peo- ple of the Pacific States should dance to the music of a hundred thousand strong, — music sweeter far and holier even than that of all the martial bands of the new Republic. Men of the East! Men at Washington! You have given the toil and even the blood of a million of your brothers and fellows for four years, and spent three thousand million dollars, to rescue one section of the Republic from barbarism and from anarchy ; and your triumph makes the cost cheap. Lend now a few thousand of men, and a hundred millions of money, to create a new Republic ; to marry to the Nation of the Atlantic an equal if not greater Nation of the Pacific. Anticipate a new sectionalism, a new strife, by a triumph of the arts of Peace, that shall be even prouder and more reach- ing than the victories of your Arms. Here is pay- ment of your great debt ; here is wealth unbounded ; here the commerce of the world ; here the comple- tion of a Republic that is continental ; but you must come and take them with the Locomotive ! 12* 18 '^/Mf LETTER XXV. COUNTRY EXCURSIONS: THE GEYSERS: VINE- YARDS, AND AGRICULTUi^E. San Francisco, August a8. Perhaps this is the least pleasant month of the twelve to see San Francisco and California in,— the dryesc and dreariest and dustiest, when Nature is at r-st ; yet we find more to see, more delightful journeys to make into the interior, than we have time for. In every direction, there is a novelty, a surprise for us ; everywhere Nature makes strange and fascinating combinations, presents herself in new forms, outrages all our pre-educated ideas as to her laws and habits, and yet everywhere, as ever, is impressive and beautiful. These valleys .nside the Coast range of mountains about San Francisco are particularly rich in novelty and beauty, and have been the theater of several very delightful excur- sions by our party since we came back from the Yosemite. They form the garden of CaUfornia agriculturally, and their nearness to the central market, and their fertile soil, have made them to be the best improved r.nd the most steadily pro- gressive in wealth and population of all the mtenor sections of the State. XXV. HE GEYSERS : UCULTUi^E. VINE- A.N Francisco, August 28. pleasant month of the and California in,— the istiest, when Nature is 10 see, more delightful interior, than we have n, there is a novelty, a : Nature makes strange ns, presents herself in r pre-educated ideas as yet everywhere, as ever, . These valleys .nside ns about San Francisco Ity and beauty, and have 11 very delightful excur- ve came back from the e garden of California, learness to the central oil, have made them to the most steadily pro- bation of all the interior THE NATURAL DIVISIONS OF CALIFORNIA. 2/5 California, as you will see by the map, is 11^ a great basin or bowl, between two ranges of n.oun- tains. Along the Coast runs one ; and the Sierras, two hundred miles east, separate her from Nevada. The Golden Gate at San Francisco lets in the ocean and out her interior waters ; to the north from that city stretches the Sacramento River and its tributa- ries through a plain two hundred miles long and forty to fifty wide ; to the south, the San Joaquin (pronounced San Walk-in) repeats the same ; and the two, with all the drainage of the interior, all the inside waste of both ranges of mountains, meet above San Francisco, and spread out into the wide inland bays, twenty to fifty miles long and four to ten wide, that give to that city its beauty, its wealth, and its commerce ; and delaying here, they leisure- ly balance accounts with tfie ocean through its nar- row gateway. San Francisco hangs over the edge of its chief- est, largest bay, like the oriole balancing on the crest of his long, pocket nest ; peeping around the corner into the Pacific, but opening wide eyes north and south and east, to the interior. To the north and south, the Sacramento and San Joaquin valleys are shut in by the two ranges of mountains chas- eezing into each other. And this is California. The side valleys from ^he Sierrjis are the field of the gold diggings and the quartz mining; their mate's over the way, inside the Coast range, and among its foot-hills, squeezing first and longest the spongy clouds from the ocean, get the most rain, and are the kindest to the husbandman ; while the r 1 276 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. broad, intermediate plains along the main rivers, wait somewhat on irrigation or a better understand- ing of the mysteries of their wealth. Every year s experience goes more and more to prove, however, that nature here do^s not forbid successful agricul- ture in withholding rain for six months of the year. The laws of her increase are peculiar ; but they are not hard. The vine does not need irrigation, nor the other fruits ; and the small grains are natural to hill and plain alike : and all ripen richly under the stimulus of the winter and spring moisture. Across the bay from San Francisco lies its sub- urb, Oakland, home of many of its best people. Here is one of the Coast valleys 1 1. ive mentioned, thick with low-branching evergreen oaks, and soft- er in sky and air than the city; here is quiet of country and cultivation of town; here grows the "garden sauce" of the metropolis; here are its best seminaries and its hopeful college; here, too, Fred Law Olmsted has planned on a large scale, and with novelties of arrangement befitting th^ novelties of climate and verdure, a grand rural cem- etery; and here Major Ralph W. Kirkham, whom Springfield sent to West Point a generation ago, and has been proud of ever since, has the most ele- gant house and home to be found anywhere on the Pacific Coast. Down the bay on the San Francisco side, through the San jose (Ozay) valley and its villages and its culture, and around its base, and back on the Alameda and Oakland shore, forms one of the most interesting of our late excursions. It is a sweep of a hundred miles; but raUroads at mi "^m INENT. g the main rivers, x better imderstand- :alth. Every year's ! to prove, however, 1 successful agricul- months of the year, iculiar ; but they are need irrigation, nor 1 grains are natural 1 ripen richly under spring moisture, ancisco lies its sub- of its best people. 'S I 1. ive mentioned, jreen oaks, and soft- ity ; here is quiet of wn; here grows the opolis; here are its 111 college ; here, too, led on a large scale, ;ement befitting the •e, a grand rural cem- W. Kirkham, whom nt a generation ago, ice, has the most ele- und anywhere on the on the San Francisco Ozay) valley and its around its base, and Oakland shore, forms ■ our late excursions, liles ; but railroads at THE SAN JOSE VALLEY. 277 beginning and end, — the arms which San Francisco is crooking around her intervening waters to stretch out, by way of Stockton, to Sacramento, and there welcome the continental cars, — helped us to make it leisurely in a day. Many an elegant country home, with orchards and gardens acres wide, showed the overflow of San Francisco wealth, as we rode down the San Jose valley ; miles of wheat fields proved how extensive are the plans of agriculture here ; busy and pros- perous villages told of their sure and steady profit, — quite in contrast with the desolated look of most of the mining towns of the interior ; old and tumble- down mission-hovses and churches, built of mud and stone, without wood or nails, and neighbor- ing orchards of ancient pear and fig trees, marked the old homes of Catholic and Spanish missionaries among the Indians ; modern convents and colleges holding up the cross, proved the presence of the same element, flexible in its character, and now offering perhaps the best education of the Coast to the children of our Puritan emigrants ; — everywhere was novelty, on every side beauty, though most of the hills were bare and brown ; and only the low, scraggy oaks, making park of field, and the culti- vated orchard fed the eye with green. The plain was everywhere yellow with the stubble of grain, or the wild oats that grow spontaneously on unoccu- pied hill and meadow all over California, or brown with the dry grass, that is hay ungathered, and rich feed still for cattle and horse ; and the hills, still of loose beautifully rounded shapes, that I first recog- 1_ 278 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. nized in Nevada, and are ever a surprise and a de- light to the eye, wearing the same colors of yellow and brovTn, blending into each other, and soft and rich under the bloom of a haze that belongs to the season and the shore ;— there was no avail in strug- gling against education and experience, — here was beauty and exhilarating life without rain for many months, without forests, without rivers, without green grass, or flowers. Similar and prolonged experience, with some added and fresh elements, came from a rapid three days' journey northerly from San Francisco to see the Geysers, or famous boiling springs, and the neighboring valleys famous for farms and fruits and vl leyards. Captain Baxter's steamer "Peta- luma" took us up through San Puebla Bay, one of the widenings of the outcoming waters of the inte- rior, and Petaluma Creek, to the thriving town of the latter name. I took a sharp look at it because of its persistent desire to steal your neighbor. Rev. Mr. Harding, away from Longmeadow, for its own minister ; and found it one of the most prosperous and pleasant of California towns, at the foot of one of the richest agricultural regions of the Coast. The rest of the day we rode through dryest dust and reposing nature, up through the Petaluma val- ley, and over into that of the Russian River, famous and peculiar here for its especial kindliness to our Indian corn,, also for its toothsome grouse, first cousin to our partridge ; stopping at the village of Healdsburg for brass band, speeches and supper, and. after a rapid hour's drive by moonlight, at a INENT. X surprise and a de- ,me colors of yellow other, and soft and that belongs to the 'as no avail in strug- perience, — here was thout rain for many ,out rivers, without erience, with some e from a rapid three an Francisco to see ig springs, and the 3r farms and fruits er's steamer "Peta- i Puebla Bay, one of g waters of the inte- he thriving town of 'p look at it because your neighbor, Rev. meadow, for its own the most prosperous ns, at the foot of one gions of the Coast, through dryest dust ;h the Petaluma val- .ussian River, famous ial kindliness to our thsome grouse, first >ing at the village of ipeeches and supper, e by moonlighti at a A RARE WHIP AND A RARE DRIVE. 279 solitary ranch under the Geyser mountain for the night. Sunrise the next morning found us whirling along a rough road over the mountains to the especial object of the excursion. But the drive of the morn- ing was the more remarkable feature. We supposed the Plains and Sierras had exhausted possibilities for us in that respect. But they were both outwit- ted here. For bold daring and brilliant execution, our driver this morning must take the palm of the world, I verily believe. The distance was twelve miles, up and down steep hills, through enclosed pastures ; the vehicle an open wagon, the passen- gers six, the horses four and gay, and changed once ; and the driver Mr. Clark T. Foss, our landlord over night and owner of the route. For several miles the road lay along "the hog's back," the crest of a mountain that ran away from the pt)int or edge, like the sides of a roof, several thousand feet to the ravines below; so narrow that, pressed down and widened as much as was possible, it was rarely over ten or twelve feet wide, and in one place but seven feet ; and winding about as the crest of the hill ran ; — and yet we went over this narrow cause- way on the full gallop. After going up and down several mountains, hold- ing rare views of valleys and ravines and peaks, under the shadows and mists of early morning, we came to a point overlooking thjj Geysers. Far be- low in the valley, we could see the hot steam pour- ing out of the ground; and wide was the waste around. The descent was almost perpendicular; \ „ 280 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. the road ran down sixteen hundred feet in rne two miles to the hotel and it had thirty-five sharp turns in its course : " Look at your watch," said Mr. Foss, as he started on the steep decHne; crack, crnok went the whip over the heads of the leaders, as the sharp corners canie in sight, and they plunged with seeming recl.lessness ahead, — and in niue minutes and a half, they were pulled up at the bottom, and we took breath. Going back, the team was an hour and a quarter in the same passage. When we wondered at Mr. Foss for his perilous and rapid driving down such a steep road, he said, "Oh, there's no danger or difficulty in it, — all it needs is to keep your head cool, and the leaders out of the way." But nevertheless I was convinced it not only does require a quick and cool brain, but a ready and strong and experienced un.nd. The whole morning ride was accomplished in two hours and a quarter ; and though everybody predicts a catastrophe from its apparent dangers, Mr. Foss has driven it, after this style, for many years, and never had an accident. The Geysers are exhausted in a couple of hours. They are certainly a curiosity, a marvel ; but there is no element of beauty ; there is nothing to be studied, to grow into or upon you. We had seen something similar, though less extensive, in Neva- da ; and like a three-legged calf, or the Siamese twins, or P. T. Barnum, or James Gordon Bennett, once seeing is satisfactory for a life-time. They are a sort of grand natural chemical shop in disor- der. In a little ravine, branching off from the val- ley, is their principal theater. The giound is white I. ^ [KENT. THE GEYSERS — HELL EMBOP'ED. 281 Jred feet in rne two irty-five sharp turns ,tch," said Mr. Foss, dine; crack, crack f the leaders, as the i they plunged with and in niue iniuntcs I at the bottom, and le team was an hour lassage. When we perilous and rapid oad, he said, "Oh, n It, — all it needs is e leaders out of the :onvinced it not only rain, but a ready and The whole morning lours and a quarter ; 5 a catastrophe from ; has driven it, after ;ver had an accident, n a couple of hours. a marvel ; but there re is nothing to be you. We had seen extensive, in Neva- :alf, or the Siamese les Gordon Bennett, r a life-time. They :mical shop in disor- ing off from the val- The gt ound is white and yellow and gray, porous and rotten, with long and high heat. The air is also hot and sulphurous to an unpleasant degree. AU along the bottom of the ravine and up its sides, the earth seems hollow and full uf ■ >oiling water. In frequent little cracks and pin holes it finds ven^ , and out of these it bubbles and emits steam like so many tiny tea- kettles at high tide. In one place the earth yawns wide, and the " Witches' Caldron," several feet in diameter, seethes and spouts a black, inky water, so hot as to boil an egg instantly, and capable of reducing a human body to pulp at short notice. The water is thrown up four to six feet in height, and the general effect is very devilish indeed, The "Witches' Caldron" is reproduced a dozen times in miniature, — handy little pools for cooking your breakfast and dinner, if they were only in your kitchen or back yard. Farther up you follow a puffing noise, exactly like that of a steamboat in progress, and you come to a couple of volumes of steam struggling out of tiny holes, but mounting high and spreading wide from their force and heat. You grow faint with the heat and smells ; your feet seem burning; and the air is loaded with a mixture of salts, sulphur, iron, magnesia, soda, am- monia, all the chemicals and compounds of a doc- tor's shop. You feci as if the ground might any moment open, and let you down to a genuine hell. You recall the line from Milton, or somebody : " Here is hell, — myself am hell." And, most dread- ful of all, you lose all appetite for the breakfast of venison, trout and grouse that awaits your return ?=iS-«S1«»ST'-' ?82 ACROSS TIE CONTINENT. to the hotel. So you struggle out of the ravine, every step among tiny volumes of steam, and over bubbling pools of water, and cool and refresh your- self among the trees on the mountain sid*^ beyond. Then, not to omit any sight, you go back throuj;h two other ravines where the same phenomena are repeated, though less extensively. All around ly the hot pools and escape valves are delicate and beautiful little crystals of sulphur, and soda, and other distinct elements of the combustibles below, taking substance again on the surface. All this wonder-working is going on day and night, year after year, answering to-day exactly to the descriptions of yesterday and five years ago. Most of the waters arc black as ink, and some as thick; others are quite light and transparent; and they are of all degrees of temperature from one hundred and fifty to five hundred. Near by, too, are springs of rool water ; some as cold as these are hot, almost. The phenomena carries its own explanation ; the chemist will reproduce for you the same thing, on a small scale, by mixing sulphuric acid an A cold water, and the other unkindrcd ele- ments that have here, in nature's laboratory, chanced to get together. Volcanic action is also most prob- ably connected with some of the demons^-ations here. There must be utility in these waters for the cure of rheumatism and other blood and skin diseases. The Indians have long used some of the pools in this way, with results that seem like fables. One of the pools has fame for eyes; and, with chemi- gn-« riNKNT. c out of the ravine, ;s of steam, and over ool and refresh your- ountain sid*^ beyond, you go back throu<;h same phenomena are t^ely. AH around by Ives are delicate and Iphur, and soda, and : combustibles below, ; surface. is going on day and •ing to-day exactly to f and five years ago. c as ink, and some as and transparent; and :empcrature from one ndred. Near by, too, some as cold as these )mena carries its own I reproduce for you the ;, by mixing sulphuric ; other unkindrcd ele- •e's laboratory, chanced lion is also most prob- of the demonstrations icse waters for the cure ood and skin diseases, d some of the pools in seem like fables. One iyes ; and, with chemi- NAPA valley: its springs anp daths. 283 cal examination and scientific application, doubtless large benefits might be reasonably assured among invalids from a resort to these waters. At present there is only a rough little bathing-house, collecting the waters from the ravine, and the visitors to the valley, save for curiosity, are but few. It is a wild, unredeemed spot, all around the Geysers ; beautiful with deep forests, a mountain strcyon, and clear air. Game, too, abounds; deer and grouse and trout seemed plentier than in any region we .uwc visited. There is a comfortable hotel ; but otherwise this valley is uninhabited. The entire region for two miles in length and half a mile in breadth, in- cluding all the springs. Is owned by one man, who olFcrs it for sale. Who would speculate in a mun- dane hell ^ Back on the route of our morning ride, we then turned off into the neighboring valley of Napa, cclcl' v*^ed for its agricultural beauty and produc- tiveness, and also for its Calistoga and Warm Springs, charmingly located, the one in the plains and the other close among mountains, and con- stituting the fashionable summer resorts for San Franciscans. The water is sulphurous ; the bath- ing delicious, softening the skin to tiie texture of a babe's ; the country charming : but we found both establishments, though with capacious head-quar- terr and numerous family cottages, almost deserted of Meople. Past farms and orchards, through parks of ever- green oak 'lat looked as perfect as if the work of art, we stopped at the village of Napa, twin and r 284 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. rival to retaliimn - - ^ from here, crossing ar\othcr spur of the C uigc, we entered :itill another beautiful and lertilc valley, that of Sonoma. Here arc some of the largest vineyards of north- ern California, and we visited tluil of the Hueiia Vista Vinicultural society, under the management of Colonel Ilaraszthy, a Hungarian. This estate embraces abouifive thousand acres of land, a prince- ly-looking house, large wine manufactory and cel- lars, and about a million vines, foreign and native. The whole value of its property is half a millioii dollars, including one hundred thousand dollars' worth of wine and brandies ready and in prepara- tion for market. We tasted the liquors, we shared the generous hospitality of the estate, and its super- intendent ; but we failed to obtain, here or else- where, any satisfactory information as to the boasied success of wine-making, yet, in California. The business is still very much in its infancy, indeed ; and this one enterprise does not seem well-managed. Nor do we find the wines very inviting ; they par- take of the general character of the Rhine wines and the Ohio Catawba ; but are rougher, harsh and heady, — needing apparently both some improve- ment in culture and manufacture, and time for soft- ening. I have drank, indeed, much better California wine in Springfield than out here. The vine and wine interest is already a great one, and is rapidly growing. Nearly all parts of the Stqte are favorable to it ; the deserted and exhausted gold fields of the Sierra Nevada valleys and hill- sides, as well as the valleys of the Coast range and TINENT. crc, crossing another entered ;itill another It of Sonoma, it vineyards of north- l that of the Huena der the management igarian. This estate lores of land, a prince- manufactory and cel- s, foreign and native. :rty is half a million ed thousand dollars' eady and in prcpara- :he liquors, we shared e estate, and its super- obtain, here or else- ation as to the boasied , in California. The n its infancy, indeed ; ot seem well-managed, ry inviting ; they par- ;r of the Rhine wines ire rougher, harsh and both some improvc- ture, and time for soft- much better California here. t is already a great one, early all parts of the deserted and exhausted 2vada valleys and hill- )f the Coast range and CALIFORNIA WINES VS. CHAMPAGNE. 285 tlic sotTthcrn mountains. Down in Los Angclos County, this season, though the grapes are twice as abundant as last year, the price is treble, because of the increased preparations for their manufacture, and the profit that is sure to be realized from the ])usiness when well-conducted. The Ikiena Vista vineyards have been making part of their wine into charppagne the last year, and gratifying results are confidently predicted. But as doctors never take their own medicines, the true Californian is slow to drink his own wine. He prefers to import from France, and to export to the East; and probably both kinds arc improved by the voyages. More French wines arc drank in California, twice over, than by the same popu- lation in any part of the eastern States. Cham- pagne is mother's milk, indeed, to all these people ; tliey start the day with "a champagne cock-tail," and go to bed with a full bottle of it under tlieir ribs. At all the bar-rooms, it is sold by the glass, the same as any other liquor, and it answers to the general name of "wine" with both drinker and landlord. From Sonoma, over another hill, to our steam- boat of three days ago, and by that back in a few hours to the city. These three days seem long, they have been so rich in novelty and knowledge, in beauty of landscape, in acquaintanceship with the best riches of California. These valleys are, indeed, agricultural jewels, and should be held as prouder possessions by the State than her gold mines. The small grains, fruits and vegetables are ACROSS THE CONTINENT. their common, chief productions; and the yields arc enormous, while the culture and cure are com- paratively light. In California, from December till April and May is seed-time; from June till September is harvest. No barns arc needed for housing stuck ; they can roam safely in pasture for the whole year. Neither are they needed for the harvests; threshing and winnowing are done as well in the open field,— sometimes, indeed, by the very machine that reaps, and at the same i nu-,— and the grain is put in bags, and thus transported to the market ; all at leisure, for there is no rain nor dew to spoil the crop ; it lies safely in any shape in the open field. There is no hot, hurrying work with planting and harvest- ing, as in the East ; no dodging of showers ; no lost days during the long summer. Fifty bushels of wheat to the acre is more common here than twenty-five in the best wheat fields of the States, and seventy-five and eighty bushels are often ob- tained. Barley, which is another leading crop, yields still greater return ; an authentic instance of one hundred and twenty bushels to the acre is be- fore me • and crops that would astound an Eastern farmer are often gathered from the droppings of a last ye?r's harvest. A single farmer in the neigh- borhood of San Jose, with a twelve hundred acre farm, has this year gathered in over fifty thousand bushels of wheat; and the county of Santa Clara, in which this farm is located, lying south fifty miles from San Francisco, and in between two sections of the Coast range of mountains, presents the foi- lowi two hum \nuv appi croj; one whe sane of c N nia I nort east ever gati< b'.it live opcc Eas^ cattl two for] INENT. AGRltUlTURAL KILIIKS OF CALII'OKNI A. 287 ns; and the yields ; and care arc tum- r till April and May jptembcr is harvest, ing stuck ; they can vholc year. Neither ests ; threshing and in the open field, — r machine that reaps, ; grain is put in bags, larket ; all at leisure, to spoil the crop ; it open field. There is lanting and harvest- ging of showers ; no itimer. Fifty bushels a common here than fields of the States, jushels are often ob- nother leading crop, authentic instance of lels to the acre is be- d astound an Eastern m the droppings of a farmer in the neigh- twelve hundred acre in over fifty thousand ounty of Santa Clara, lying south fifty miles between two sections tains, presents the fol- lowing aggregates of agriculture: acres fenced in, two hundred and ten thousand ; cultivated, one hundred and thirty thousand; grape vines, eight hundred and seventy-nine thousand nine hundred ; apple trees, one hundred and twenty thousand; crops this year, — thirty-five thousand tons of hay, one hundred and thirty-five thousand bushels of wheat, one hundred thousand of barley, si.\ty thou- sand each of oats and potatoes, and four thousand . of corn. Nothing is wanting to the agriculture of Califor- nia but a steady and extensive market ; she sends north to Washington and the Uritish Provinces ; east to Nevada and Idaho ; south to Mexico ; is even trying China on the west, and with steam navi- gation hopes for large market for wheat there; — b'-it most of her soil is still unbroken, — her produc- tive power is but suggested, not proven, undevel- oped. And still she buys half her butter in the East ! Visit ranches in the interior, that boast their cattle by the tens of thousands, and the chances are two to one that neither milk nor butter can be had for love or money I 1 LETTER XXVI. OF SAN FRANCISCO: BUSINESS MATTERS. San Francisco, August 26. This is a very ridiculous and repulsive town, in some aspects, and a very fascinating and commend- able one, in others, both materially and morally, physically and esthetically. Its youth is its apology in one regard, its wonder and its merit on the other. The location must have been chosen for its water and not its land privileges. It is set upon the m- side of a range of the purest sand-hills, six or seven miles wide, blown up from the ocean, and still blow- incr up, between it and the bay. The main busmess streets are in the hollows, or on the flat land, made by pulling down the sand from the hills. But go out of these in any direction, and you are con- fronted by steep hills. Some of these are cut through, or being cut through, others are scaled, to make room for the spread of the town. Tlje happy thought of winding the streets about their sides, which would have made a very picturesque and certainly get-around-able town, came too late. If but the early San Franciscans had thought of Bos- ton, and followed the cow-paths, what a unique, nice THE SAND-HILLS OF SAN FRANCISCO. 289 XXVI. JSINESS MATTERS. ln Francisco, August 26. ind repulsive town, in inating and commend- aterially and morally, Its youth is its apology its merit on the other, n chosen for its water It is set upon the in- sand-hills, six or seven e ocean, and still blow- Ly. The main business • on the flat land, made rom the hills. But go ion, and you are con- ome of these are cut ;h, others are scaled, to ■ the town. The happy ■eets about their sides, very picturesque and )wn, came too late. If ms had thought of Bos- iths, what a unique, nice town they would have made of this ! Only I fear there never was even an estray cow on these virgin sand-hills, as innocent of verdure as a babe of sor- row or vice. The modern American straight line style was the order, no matter what was in front ; and the result is that going about San Francisco is all collar and breeching work for man and beast. The consequence is, also, there are only two or three streets that you can think of driving out of town on. The only way to get up and down the others with a horse, is to go zig-zag from one side to the other. Some of the principal residence streets are after this fashion, however ; I found our friend. Rev. Horatio Stebbins, of the Unitarian church here, holding on by main strength to a side hill that runs up at an angle of something like thirty degrees. And so they run up and down, and the city is straggling loosely over these hills for several miles in all directions. Some of the highest of the knobs are being cut down, and this leaves the early houses, — that is those built four or five years ago, — away up one hundred feet or more in the air, and reached by long flights of steep steps. Wherever the hill-sides and tops are fastened with houses or pavements, or twice daily seduced with water, there the foundations are measurably secure ; and the deed of the purchaser means some- thing ; but all elsewhere, all the open lots and un- paved paths are still undergoing the changing and creative process. The daily winds swoop up the soil in one place and deposit it in another in great masses, like drifts of snow. You will often find a '3 '9 1* I! 290 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. suburban street blocked up with fresh sand ; and the owner of vacant lots needs certainly to pay them daily visit in order to swear to title ; and the chance is anyway that, between one noon and 'another, he and his neighbor will have changed properties to an indefinite depth. Incidental to all this, of course, are clouds of sand and dust through all the residence and open parts of the city, making large market for soap and clothes-brushes, and put- ting neat housekeepers quite in despair for their furniture. Naturally enough, there is a looseness on the subject of cleanliness, that would shock your ofd-fashioned New England housewives. But then, as compensation, the winds give health, ^keeping the town fresh and clean ; and the hills offer wide visions of bay and river, and islands and sister hills,— away out and on with varying life of shipping, and manufactures, and agriculture ; and, hanging over all, a sky of azure with broad hori- zons. Oceanward is Lone Mountain Cemetery, covering one of the hills with its scrawny, low- running, live oak shrub tree, and its white monu- ments, conspicuous among which are the erections to those martyrs to both western and eastern civili- zation and progress,— Broderick, the mechanic and senator, James King of William, the editor, and Baker, the soldier. Here is the old Mission quar- ter, there the soldiers' camp, yonder, by the water, the bristling fort, again the conspicuous and gener- ous Orphan Asylum, monument of the tenderness and devotion of the women of the city, and to the left of that still, the two Jewish Cemeteries, each JTINENT. PERPETUAL GARDENS IN THE CITY. 291 with fresh sand; and ;cds certainly to pay ivcar to title ; and the ween one noon and ar will have changed pth. Incidental to all sand and dust through rts of the city, making ithes-brushes, and put- e in despair for their 1, there is a looseness :ss, that would shock land housewives. , the winds give health, d clean; and the hills I river, and islands and n with varying life of and agriculture; and, azure with broad hori- : Mountain Cemetery, with its scrawny, low- e, and its white monu- ivhich are the erections stern and eastern civili- :rick, the iftechanic and William, the editor, and J the old Mission quar- p, yonder, by the water, conspicuous and gener- ment of the tenderness I of the city, and to the ewish Cemeteries, each with its appropriate and tasteful burial chapel. No other American city holds in its very center such sweeping views of itself and its neighborhood. Then the. little yarc'^ around the dwellings of the prosperous, even of those of moderate means, are made rich with all the verdure of a green-house, with only the cost of daily watering. The most delicate of evergreens; roses of every grade and hue; fuchsias vigorous and high as lilac bushes; nasturtiums sweeping over fences and up house walls ; flowering vines of delicate quality, unknown in the East; geraniums and salvias, pansies and daisies, and all the kindred summer flowers of New York and New England, grow and blossom under these skies, throughout the whole year, — the sarne in December and January as in June and August, — with a richness and a profusion that are rarely attained by any out door culture in the East. The public aqueducts furnish water, though at consider- able expense, and pipes convey and spread it in fine spray all over yard and garden. The result is, every man's door-yard in the city is like an east- ern conservatory ; and little humble cottages smile out of this city of sand-hills and dust, as green and as yellow, and as red and as purple, as gayest of garden can make them. There is no aristocracy of flowers here ; they greet you everywhere in greatest profusion, and are tender solace to home- sick heart and cheap and sweet tonic to weary brain. Kindred contrasts force themselves upon the ob- servant stranger, in the business and social Hfe of 292 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. the town. Some of the finest quaUties are mingled with others that are both shabby and "shoddy." There is sharp, full development of all material powers and excellencies ; wealth of practical qiial- ity and force ; a recklessness and rioting with the elements of prosperity ; much dash, a certain chiv- alric honor combined with carelessness of word, of integrity, of consequence ; a sort of gambling, spec- ulating, horse-jockeying morality,— born of the un- certainties of mining, its sudden hights, its equally surprising depths, and the eager haste to be rich,— that all require something of a re-casting of rela- tionships, new standards, certainly new charities, in order to get the unaccustomed mind into a state of candor and justice. People, who know they are smart in the East, and come out here thinking to find it easy wool-gathering, are generally apt to go home skorn. Wall Street can teach Montgomery Street nothing in the way of "bulling" and "bear- ing," and the "cor..ers" made here require both quick and long breath to turn without faltering. Men of mediocre quality are no better off here than in older cities and States. Ten or fifteen years of stern chase after fortune, among the mines and mountains and against the new nature of this original country, has developed men here with a tougher and more various experience in all the tem- poralities of life, and a wider resource for fighting all sorts of "tigers," than you can easily find among the present generation in the eastern States. Nearly all the men of means here to-day have held long and various struggle with fortune, failing once, twice 'A fc ai h n tl P t( g P it a a a s a n s s C V tl a t ( c \ 4ENT. alities are mingled by and "shoddy." nt of all material 1 of practical qital- id rioting with the ash, a certain chiv- sssness of word, of t of gambling, spec- \f, — born of the un- 1 hights, its equally haste to be rich, — L re-casting of rela- linly new charities, d mind into a state who know they are ut here thinking to generally apt to go teach Montgomery bulling" and "bear- ! here require both vithout faltering. 2 no better off here es. Ten or fifteen ne, among the mines J new nature of this ;d men here with a rience in all the tem- source for fighting all easily find among the tern States. Nearly •-day have held long ne, failing once, twice THE BUSINESS MEN OF SAN FRANCISCO. 293 or thrice and making wide wreck, but buckling on the armor again and again, and trying the contest over and over. So it is throughout the State and the Coast; I have hardly met an old emigrant of '49 and '50, who has not told me of vicissitudes of fortune, of personal trials, and hard work for bread and life, that, half-dreamed of before coming here, he would never have dared to encounter, and which no experience of persons in like position in life in the East can parallel. In consequence partly of all this training, and partly of the great interests and the wide regions to be dealt with, the men I find at the head of the great enterprises of this Coast have great business power, — a wide practical reach, a boldness, a sagac- ity, a vim, that I do not believe can be matched anywhere in the world. London and New York and Boston can furnish men of more philosophies and theories, — men who have studied business as a science as well as practiced it as a trade, — but here are the men of acuter intuitions and more daring natures ; who cannot tell you why they do so and so, but who will do it with a force that commands success. Such men have built up and direct the California Steam Navigation Company, that is to the waters of this State what the Oregon Company u to those of that, commanding the entire navigation and furnishing most unexceptionable facilities for trade and travel ; the California and Pioneer Stage Companies, that equally command the stage travel of the Coast ; the Woolen Mills of this city ; the Wells & Fargo Express Company ; the great Ma- ^^-^^-'■■■^3i:^r~fKt^ 294 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. chine Shops of Pacific street; the Pacific Mail Steamship Company ; and the great private Bank- ing Houses, of which there are many and most pros- perous. Much British capital is invested in bank- ing here ; nor only in original houses, but through branches of leading bankers in London, India and British Columbia. But chief of the banks is the Bank of California, with two millions of capital, divided into only forty shares of fifty thousand dol- lars each, and owned by fewer than that number of persons, who represent a total property of thirteen millions (gold). This institution does about half the banking business of the city, and its average cash movement every steamer day, in shipments of bullion and drafts, is five millions of dollars. It keeps the best commercial and financial writer of the Coast in its employ, has agents in all the centers of productive wealth in the Pacific States, invests, directly or indirectly, in most of the leading enter- prises of the State, has an eye out for the politics and religion of the country, and to a very consider- able extent "runs" California every way. But there is no institution of the Coast that has interested me more than the Wells & Fargo Ex- press. It is the omnipresent, universal business agent of all the region from the Rocky Mountains to the Pacific Ocean. Its offices are in every town, far and near ; a billiard saloon, a restaurant, and a Wells & Fargo office are the first three elements of a Pacific or Coast mining town ; its messengers are on every steamboat, and rail-car and stage, in all these States. It is the Ready Companion of TINENT. :t; the Pacifc Mail ; great private Bank- many and most pros- is invested in bank- houses, but through n London, India and ' of the banks is the > millions of capital, of fifty thousand dol- • than that number of I property of thirteen tion does about half city, and its average r day, in shipments of iUions of dollars. It ,nd financial writer of ;ents in all the centers Pacific States, invests, t of the leading enter- ye out for the politics ind to a very consider- L every way. of the Coast "that has e Wells & Fargo Ex- nt, universal business the Rocky Mountains ices are in every town, )n, a restaurant, and a e first three elements town ; its messengers rail-car and stage, in Ready Companion of ■ WELLS AND FARGO AS : ETTER-CARRIERS. 295 civilization, the Universal Friend and Agent of the miner, his errand man, his banker,, his post-office. .It is much more than an ordinary express com- pany ; it does a general and universal banking busi- ness, and a great one in amount ; it brings to market all the bullion and gold from the mining regions, — its statistics are the only reliable knowledge of the production ; and it divides with the government the carrying of letters to and fro. In the latter respect its operations are very curi- ous. Going along hand in hand with the rapidly changing populations of the mining States, offering readier and more various facilities than the. slower- moving and circumscribed government machinery, carrying the goods of the merchant and the bullion of the miner, as well as their letters, it has grown very much into the heart and habit of the people, and even conveys many of the letters upon routes that the government mail now goes as quickly and as safely as the express company, though their cost by the latter is much the greatest. The company breaks none of the post-office laws, but pays the government its full price for every letter it carries. The process is thus : Wells & Fargo buy the post- office envelopes bearing the government stamp, and then put their own stamp or frank upon them, and sell the same for ten cents each ; and in these en- velopes, thus doubly stamped, all the letters by ex- press are carried. Where the letters are above the single rate, additional govcnment stamps are put on and charged for by the company. The extent of this business is showij by the facts 296 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. that Wells & Fargo bought of the govern. nent in 1863 over two millions of three-cent envelopes, fifteen thousand of six-cent envelopes, and thirty thousand of ten and eighteen-cent ones, besides seventy thousand of extra three-cent stamps and twe've thousand five hundred of six-cent ditto. In 1864, the business increased, as it has steadily all along, and the three-cent envelopes bought and sold by Wells & Fargu in that year were nearly two and a quarter millions, and the extra stamps about one hundred and twenty-five thousand. Thus all the agencies of Wells & Fargo are private post-ofiices, doing the business of the government better and more satisfactorily than it does it itself, and paying the government its full price for the same. One long side of the great San Francisco office is de- voted to this letter business; clerks wait courte- ously, and at all hours, on all callers ; letters with known or discoverable local addresses are delivered ; and for the others, lists of those received each day are regularly posted, so that any one can tell at once, without inquiry, if there be anything for him. The messengers of the company on stages and steam- boats receive all letters under the appropriate en- velopes, and the facilities of letter carriage they aflford are much wider and more intimate than the government gives. This part of the business of Wells & Fargo is very profitable, and its success, popularity and wide extension, reaching through one hundred and sev- enty-iive difi'erent towns and villages, and extending as well to \\t newest mining regions in Idaho as to r t 1 I £ I S I t t t t c a 1 a I 1; i i t V a c a a c G l TINENT. ROPBERIES OF THE MESSENGKkS. 297 )f the govern inent in hrce-cent envelopes, envelopes, and thirty ;n-cent ones, besides iree-cent stamps and of six-cent ditto. In as it has steadily all lopes bought and sold r were nearly two and tra stamps about one usand. Thus all the e private post-offices, >vernment better and ;s it itself, and paying : for the same. One vrancisco office is dc- ; clerks wait courte- 1 callers; letters with Idresses are delivered ; 3se received each day ly one can tell at once, lything for him. The on stages and steam- :r the appropriate en- f letter carriage they lore intimate than the of Wells & Fargo is is, popularity and wide one hundred and sev- villages, and extending regions in Idaho as to the chief cities of California,— even beyond and off mail routes and post-offices, — jircscnt very effective practical arguments for the government's giving up wholly its post-office department. The main rea- son offered against such abandonment has generally been, that the sparsely settled States and widely separated populations could not, by private enter- prise, be served with their letters except at high cost ; but this experience on the Pacific Coast more than meets this. Private enterprise here does bet- ter than the government, and is preferred to it. Wells & Fargo even offered some years ago to do the whole mail service of the Pacific Coast at five cents a letter, provided the franking privilege was abolished. They could doubtless perform it with profit at three cents, and would if the business were all secured to them. The Wells & Fargo Express is mostly owned in New York, but it is managed out here by men of large business experience and great sagacity, and in its enterprise and popular facilities not only strik- ingly illustrates but greatly advances the civiliza- tion of these States. Often it runs special treasure wagons with escort, and frequently its messengers are exposed to great peril from robbers and Indians. Those from Idaho now have to ride wide awake, day and night, with guns and pistols ready loaded and cocked. The stages on which their messengers and treasure were passing were stopped and robbed on the road eight times during 1864; and several serious robberies have also occurred this year, and in one case a messenger was murdered. The man- ia* ACROSS niE CONTINENT. agers of the express arc influential leaders and movers in the opening of new routes and in estab- lishing lines of stages ; even also are high powers ^ in the construction of railroads. The success and extent of the Machine Shops and Woolen Manufacture here in San Francisco were also interesting* objects of observation. There is no longer use or profit in importing machinery from the East. As good, if not better, is made here, and as cheap ; stean\ engines and boilers of the highest g'ade ; and stamps and crushers and all the various machinery for the mining regions. The machine shops are mostly in a single street, and must employ in the aggregate about one thousand mechanics and laborers. One of the largest and most complete of these establishments is owned and conducted by Mr. Ira P. Rankin, formerly of Boston and Northampton. There are two large and successful Woolen Mills. The oldest and most successful is the "Mission," the creation of an indomitable Scotch-Yankee, Mr. Donald McLennan, who learned his business among the mills of Middlesex County, Massachusetts, and came out here some eight or ten years ago, with only a few dollars in his pocket, but with a big cap- ital of experience, industry and courage. His estab- lishment is now worth over half a million dollars ; consumed last year over one million pounds of wool, and manufactured thirty-two thousand pairs of blankets, near half a million yards of flannels, and over one hundred thousand yards of cloths and cloakings. The wool is all of California growth,— r 'INENT. uential Icadfrs and routes and in cstab- Iso arc high powers i. the Machine Shops •e in San Franciscc observation. There mporting machinery not better, is made gincs and boilers of i and crushers and all nining regions. The a single street, and I about one thousand e of the largest and blishments is owned Rankin, formerly of :ccssful Woolen Mills, iful is the "Mission," e Scotch-Yankee, Mr. cd his business among y, Massachusetts, and r ten years ago, with et, but with a big cap- d courage. His cstab- half a million dollars ; le million pounds of ty-two thousand pairs ion yards of flannels, ,nd yards of cloths and f California growth,— TTIE MISSION WOni.EN MILLS. 899 for this is a large and cheap wool-producing State ; — the machinery, which includes eleven sets of cards, thirty-five lunulred spindles and fifty broad power- looms, is of the very best and most modern descrip- tion, from England and the East ; and the goods produced are of much variety of grade and style, in order to suit and fdl the limited market here. The blankets are the finest made anywhere in the United States, perhaps in the world; certainly there are none in the eastern markets to compare with them either in thickness or softness ; and except for the very finest of broadcloths and cassimere.s, these mills are fast driving all woolen goods from the East and from Europe out of this market. The army and Indian departments on this Coast have been laigely supplied with their blankets and cloth- ing from this estabUshment during the last four years; and the government officers testify that these goods are of much superior quality to those generally sent from the East. One of the most interesting features of Mr. McLennan's cstablishmeirt is that the work is nearly all done by Chinamen, almost three hundred being employed. A few whites arc only necessary for the more intricate and skill-requiring processes, and for superintending. The Chinese are found much cheaper of course ; indeed the business could not be carried on successfully here but for their labor, which costs but one dollar and twelve cents a day against two dollars and ninety-seven cents for the whites employed ; and the superintendent testifies that the difficulties of a first beginning 300 ACROaS THE CDNTININT. with them were veiy speedily and fully overcome, and they were found very quick to learn all the details of the work, such as carding, spinning, weav- inR, finishinR and wool-sorting. They live in a large buiUliiig on the mill gr :)unds, and make the most reliable, constant and valuable of factory operatives. The first cotton manufactory in California is just finished and going into operation, over the bay in Oakland, and will get its raw material from the Mexican States, for the present at least. Success- ful experiments in cotton raising on a large scale have been made this season in southern California. There is a great sugar refinery establishment in San Francisco, drawing its materials for refining- from the Sandwich Islands, which are fost coming to be the exclusive source of sweetening for all these Stat'js. — There arc also extensive lead and iron and glass works. San Francisco enterprise and capital are at the foundation of all these pioneer manufactures; but success will soon extend and multiply them over the State. I dwell upon these particulars, these illustrations of the enterprise and skill of this city and these States, because they form the promise of the great future. There is a sea-captain in your town, and quite a young man, too, who used to come here for hides, when only a single cabin marked the site of San Francisco. Uow it has a population of over one hundred thour,and, or nearly a q^uarter of the whole State ; pays half the taxes of the State ; has a larger foreign commerce than any city in the Na- tu foi lif tw ci| to ni sa th th sti wi II as of th th JNINT. COMMERCE OP SAK FRANCISCO. 301 and fully overcome, lick to learn all the ling, spinnin;;-, weav- g. They live in a iintls, and make the valuable of factory f in California is just lion, over the bay in V material from the it at least. Success- sing on a large scale I southern California, lery establishment in natcrials for refining- hich are fost coming if sweetening for all 3 extensive lead and Francisco enterprise )n of all these pioneer vill soon extend and tion but New York and Boston, its customs-revenue fur the first six months of this year being three mil- lions and a quarter dollars, and its port clearing two hundred and thirty vessels of one hundred and eighty-three thousand eight hundred and thirty-four tons for foreign ports, and entering one hundred and ninety vessels of one hundred and forty-nine thou- sand seven hundred and forty-four tonnage during the same time, besides a domestic shipping two- thirds these figures ; aiid soon, within ten years, — struggle as Boston may and grow as she will, — it will divide commercial honors with New York alone. Here is seat of empire, and of population, as great as yours of the eastern States ; here the equal arm of the American Nation ; and the.se men and means that I have been describing are the beginnings of the great and majestic cad. xrs, these illustrations f this city and these : promise of the great in in your town, and used to come here for in marked the site of a population of over ;arly a quarter of the Lxes of the State ; has an any city in the Na- "■€ s LETTER XXVII. MINING IN CALIFORNIA: ITS VARIETIES. RESULTS AND TROSPECTS. Mariposa, California, August 28. We have been making our final studies of the mining business of the Pacific States here among Se mtnes and mills of the famous Mar.posa estate of Colonel Fremont. Thus the occasjon is a proper one to sum up my various notes and observations n Ca i ornia on that subject, and so far as possible represent the state of the business in the whole eg on west of the Rocky Mountains. The gross ;7oductior. of gold and silver by all the^e S a es was probably never greater than now. There are no very exact figures to be had; those of Wells, Fargo & Company's Express and the San Francisco nitnt furnish the best data, and are before me in detail They indicate a total yield for 1864 of abou si^ty millio/s of dollars, and for this year at leas an Jqual probably a greater sum, perhaps sixty fiv or seventy millions. California ^^rself produce now but about one-third of this amount, she h fallen off from forty and fifty millions a year to twenty and twenty-five; while Nevada now offe from fifteen to twenty millions a year, mainly of QUARTZ MINING AND SOIL DIGGINGS. 3O3 :xvii. , VARIETIES, RESULTS ECTS. OSA, California, August 28. ur final studies of the fie States here among imous Mariposa estate the occasion is a proper notes and ^observations , and so far as possible business in the whole Mountains. The gross ;er by all these States than now. There are e had ; those of Wells, 5 and the San Francisco ., and are before me in il yield for 1864 of about id for this year at least r sum, perhaps sixty-five fornia herself produces ,f this amount; she has fifty millions a year to vhile Nevada now oflfers llions a year, mainly of ± silver ; Idaho and eastern Oregon sent forward nine millions last year, and will probably increase this to twelve or fifteen millions this year ; and the British Provinces and Arizona furnish perhaps five millions. The gold of Montana mainly finds its way east through Colorado; but this is the first season of any large production there. But the production of all the States and Territories this side of the Rocky Mountains comes to San Francisco ; one-third of it, or about twenty millions, is coined at the United States mint there ; and the rest is exported in bars or dust, mainly in bars, to New York, China and En.cfland, but chiefly now to England. The western or California slopes of the Sierra Nevada yield no silver ore, — here the mining is of gold alone, and it is divided into two general classes ; that which seeks the metal from the solid rock, or quartz, and that which finds it in sand, gravel, or soil. The former process is the universal and famil- iar one of all rock mining, following the rich veins into the bowels of the earth with pick and powder, crushing the rock, and seducing the infinitesimal atoms of metal from the dusty, powdered mass. The accepted theory is that this is the original form or dep 'i of the precious metals, — that the gold found in gravel, sand or soil, — lying as it does almost universally in the beds of rivers, dead or alive, or under the eaves of the mountains, — has been washed and ground out of the hard hills by the action of the elements through long years. Washing with water is the universal means of get- ting at these deposits of the gold. But the scale f:\it 304 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. on which this work is done, and the instnimentali- ties of'application, vary, from the simple hand-pan and pick and shovel of the individual and original miner, operating along the banks of a lifile stream, to grand combination enterprises for changing the entire course of a river, running shafts down hun- dreds of feet to get into the beds of long a^o streams, and bringing water through ditches and flumes and great pipes for ten or twenty miles, wherewith to wash down a hill-side of golden gravel, and get at its precious particles. The simple indi- vidual pan-washers have mostly "moved on" for the richer sands of Idaho and Montana; what of this sort of gold seeking remains in California is in the hands of patient and plodding "John Chinaman," who works over the neglected sands of his prede- cessors, and is content to reap as harvest a dollar's worth a day. The other means are employed, on greater or less scales of magnitude, by combinations of men and capital. All the forms of gold washing run into each other, indeed; and companies of two or three, sometimes of Chinamen, with capitals of hundreds of dollars, buy a sluice claim or seize a deserted bed, and with shovel and pick and small stream of water, run the sands over and over through the sluice ways, and at end of day, or week, or month, gather up the deposits of gold on the bottoms and at the ends of their sluices. From this, opera- tions ascend to a magnitude involving hundreds of thousands, and employing hundreds of men as partners or day laborers for the managers. Some- •-^^^msm^ Wj&aav f-as?; ;*>viK« [TINENT. DEEP DIGGINGS AND HYDRAULIC MINING. 305 nd the instnimentali. the simple hand-pan idividual and original inks of a little stream, •ises for changing the ing shafts down hun- le beds of long a^o through ditches and ten or twenty miles, 1-side of golden gravel, les. The simple indi- tly " moved on " for the lontana; what of this in California is in the ng "John Chinaman," 2d sands of his predc- ip as harvest a dollar's oyed, on greater or less nbinations of men and ;old washing run into ipanies of two or three, :h capitals of hundreds im or seize a deserted ;k and small stream of and over through the lay, or week, or month, jld on the bottoms and ;s. From this, opera- de involving hundreds g hundreds of men as the managers. Some- times, too, the enterprise is divided, and companies are organized that furnish the water alone, and sell it out to the miners or washers according to their wants. The raising of auriferous sands and gravel from the deeply covered beds of old streams, by running down shafts and out tunnels into and through such beds, and then washing them over, is called " Deep Diggings," or " Bed-rock Diggings," and in their pursuit the bottoms of ancient rivers will be followed through the country for mile after mile, and many feet below the present surface of the ea;th. The miners in this fashion go down till they reach the bed-rock, along which the water orig- inally ran, and here they find the richest deposits. The other sort of heavy gold ;washing, employing powerful streams of water to tear down and wash out the soil of hill-sides that cover or hold golden deposits, is known as " Hydraulic Mining." This is the most unique and extensive process, involving the largest capital and risk. The water is brought from mountain lakes or rivers through ditches and flumes, sometimes supported by trestle-work fifty to one hundred icct high, to near the theater of operations. Then it is let from flumes into large and stout iron pipes which grow gradually smaller and smaller; out of these it is passed into hose, like that of a fire engine, and through this it is ^red with a terrible force into the bank or bed of earth, which is speedily torn down and washed with resist- less, separating power, into narrow beds or sluices in the lower valleys, and as it goes along these, hin- dered and seducea at various points, the more solid 30 i,. 306 ACROSS THE CONTINr:JT. gold pcarticles deposit themselves. Usual'y, in large operations of this kind, the main stream of water is divided in the final discharging hose into two or more streams, which spout out into the hill-side as if from several fire engines, only with immensely more force. One of the streams would instantly kill man or animal that should get before it, and frequent fatal or half-fatal accidents occur from this cause. Near Dutch Flat, where extensive hydraulic mining is in progress, a water company taps lakes twelve to twenty miles off in the mountains, and turns whole rivers into its ditches ; and as further illustration of its majestic operations, we learned that it spent eighty thousand dollars in one year in building a new ditch, and yet made and divided one hundred and twenty thousand dollars in additional profits that same year. Up near Yreka, in northern California, a ditch thirty miles long, and costing two hundred thousand dollars, was constructed for this business ; but in this instance, the enterprise did not prove profitable. Near Oroville, also, are supposed rich gold banks and beds that only lack water for development ; but to get this will require ditches costing two hundred thousand dollars. The citizens of the neighborhood are confident it would be a richly-paying investment, however, and say the chief reason why it is not entered upon is the lack of certain laws regulating mining claims, and the conflicts and doubt that are engendered by the neg- lect of the government to establish the terms of ownership in mining lands. As it is now, squatter sovereignty is the substan- tial min tern occi pun is a in f not! in i eve lati( pro; tair will ruk the the clai ent mil mi- dee Al cor fen dol is : aft( due get dol )NTiNr:jT. ;lves. UsuDl'y, in large main stream of water irging hose into two or 3ut into the hill-side as i, only with immensely treams would instantly ould get before it, and :cidents occur from this lere extensive hydraulic ter company taps lakes in the mountains, and ditches ; and as further operations, we learned id dollars in one year in 2t made and divided one ind dollars in additional near Yreka, in northern niles long, and costing ars, was constructed for instance, the enterprise Near Oroville, also, are and beds that only lack t to get this will require 1 thousand dollars. The )d are confident it would ;nt, however, and say the entered upon is the lack mining claims, and the ; engendered by the neg- > establish the terms of vereignty is the substan- PROFITABLE GOLD WASHINGS, 307 tial law of mining properties; prospectors and miners have established a few general rules for de- termining the rights of each other ; and they, can occupy and use the properties that they discover or purchase, to a certain limited extent. No one man is allowed to take up more than a certain amount in feet or acres. The government so far has done nothing with these mineral lands, whose fee is still in itself, and gets no revenue from them. When- ever cases of conflict come into court, the regu- lations of the miners of the distric*:, where the properties are located^ have been generally sus- tained. But the apprehension that the government will yet assume its rights, and establish different rules for the possession and use of these lands, and the uncertainty and controversies growing out of the present loose ways of making and holding claims, are undoubtedly a stumbling-block to large enterprises, and an obstacle to the best sort of mining progress and prosperity all through the mi"eral country of this Coast. The returns obtained in some cases of extensive deep diggings and hydraulic mining are very great. A thousand dollars a day is often washed out by a company holding rich soil and employing a large force ; and a run of several weeks averaging fifty dollars and one hundred dollars a day to the hand is frequently recorded. A single "cleaning up," after a few weeks' washing in a rich place, has pro- duced fifty thousand dollars in gold dust and nug- gets ; and in other cases, even one hundred thousand dollars is reported. These are the extreme cases 3o8 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. of good fortune, however ; other enterprises are run with a loss, or with varying result ; but the gold washings, as a gei>eral thing, are paying good wages and a fair return to the capital invested. Of course all these operations create a wide waste wherever they drc going on, and have been in progress. Tornado, flood, earthquake and volcano combined could hardly make greater havoc, spread wider ruin and wreck, than are to be seen every- where in the path of the larger gold-washing oper- ations. None of the interior streams of California, though naturally pure as crystal, escape the change to a thick yellow mud, from this cause, early in their progress out of the hills. The Sacramento is worse than the Missouri. Many of the streams are turned out of their original channels, either directly for mining purposes, or in consequence of the great masses of soil and gravel that come down from the gold-washings above. Thousands of acres of fine land along their banks are ruined forever by the deposits of his cha '■^er. There are no rights which mining respects m California. It is the one supreme interest. A farmer iiay have his whole estate turned to a barren waste by a flood of sand and gravel from some hydraulic mining up stream ; more, if a fine orchard or garden stands in the way of the working of a rich gulch or bank, orchard and garden must go. Then the torn-down, dug-out, washed to pieces and then washed over side-hills, that have been or are being hydraulic-mined, are the very devil's chaos, indeed. The country is full of them among the mining districts of the Sierra Neva upon a bra ilhisti when now ( "Yut conni out t teur, ; poun( minci Th neigh in th and ! and I mous ful ar arour ty, w gion. impoi ' did r signs quart ley, a dollai and t work on th ccssfi ONTINENT. ther enterprl.es are run g result; but the gold , are paying good wages ital invested, ions create a wide waste on, and have been in earthquake and volcano :e greater havoc, spread 1 are to be seen every- rger gold-washing oper- or streams of California, ystal, escape the change om this cause, early in ills. The Sacramento is Many of the streams are channels, either directly :onsequence of the great hat come down from the ousands of acres of fine e ruined forever by the There are no rights California. It is the one ler 1 lay have his whole ivaste by a flood of sand aulic mining up stream ; jarden stands in the way ilch or bank, orchard and the torn-down, dug-out, X washed over side-hills, ing hydraulic-mined, are ;ed. The country is full g districts of the Sierra YUBA DAM — GRASS VALLE^QUARTZ MINES. 309 Nevada foot-hills, and they are truly a terrible blot upon the face of nature. The valley of the Yuba, a branch of the Sacramento, was one of the worst illustrations our journeying has presented; and when we came to the sign over the "grocery" of a now deserted mining camp, indicating that this was "Yuba Dam," we thought of the famous anecdote connected with this name, from its repetition, with- out the benefit of spelling, to an inquiring colpor- teur, and were fain to confess that the profane com- pound fairly represented the spirit of the lawless miner. The gold quartz mines are mostly in the same neighborhoods with present or past gold-washings ; in the hills back and abeve the rich stream beds and gravel banks. Nevada County in the north, and Mariposa in the south, have been the most fa- mous counties for this interest. The most success- ful and noteworthy operations of it now are in and around the town of Grass Valley, in Nevada Coun- ty, which has always been a profitable mining re- gion. It seemed almost the only mining town of importance in California, that we visited, which ♦ did not have vacant stores and houses, and show signs of decrepitude. There are now about twenty quartz mills in successful operation in Grass Val- ley, and the ore they work yields from ten to fifty dollars a ton ; occasionally as high as one hundred and two hundred dollars. The cost of mining and working is from six to ten dollars a ton, depending on the facilities of mine and mill. Among the suc- cessful miners and capitalists here, is Mr. S. D. 310 ACROSS^THE CONTINENT, Bosworth, from West Springfield and Springfield, who now occupies the ccltage which the notorious Lola Montez built -nd lived in for several years. She came here to perform for the miners in 1854, and staid to ruin one husband, and change him for another. She led a rollicking life here» and the town is full of scandals concerning her. Intelli- gent gentlemen who piet her confess to her intel- lectual power and impressive conversation, and to her fascinating manners. Grass Valley also boasts an old horse that goes around alone with a milk- wagon, stopping before the doors of his customers, and nowhere else, and delivering his daily allow- ances to each with unvarying fidelity. But the really wonderful thing about this story is that Grass Valley should have a population that can be trusted to help themselves to milk, and not take, any of them, more than their allotted share. The mines here are receiving enlarged attention just now, and extensive new investments are being made, both in Grass Valley and the neighboring town of Nevada. But here in Mariposa County, the interest has a different look, and affairs are in a desperate condi- tion. There are in all ten quartz mills here, all or nearly all on the Fremont estate, but only two or three are now running, and these with moderate re- sults. The villages are decreasing in population ; the best people are going away; viciousness of all sorts seems to be increasing; and highway robber- ies are of almost nightly occurrence. The great Mariposa mining company, formed in Wall street two years ago with a capital of ten millions, a deot of tv SUCCI style most Fred undc affai) homi tion over tors on a mula in 01 obta: lars gin( cent his 1 frien Thei weal has 1 byp capil as a alon^ agn V cont iVlraw usefi Prin NTINENT, jfield and Springfield, e which the notorious 1 in for several years, r the miners in 1854, id, and change him for ing Hfe here, and the ncerning her. Intclli- ;r confess to her intcl- e conversation, and to Irass Valley also boasts und alone with a milk- doors of his customers, ivering his daily allow- ing fidelity. But the this story is that Grass ,tion that can be trusted :, and not take, any of tted share. The mines attention just now, and are being made, both in boring town of Nevada, unty, the interest has a re in a desperate condi- quartz mills here, all or estate, but only two or these with moderate re- creasing in population; away ; viciousness of all g ; and highway robber- occurrence. The great r, formed in Wall street il of ten millions, a debt THE MARIPOSA ESTATE — ITS RUINS. 311 of two millions, and not a cent of ready cash, — succeeding to General Fremont's property and his style of doing business, — has come to grief. Its most worthy superintendent and manager, Mr. Frederic Law Olmsted, who was beguiled out here under a gross misapprehension of the situation of affairs, and the duties he was to perform, is going home disgusted, to resume more congenial occupa- tion in the East; the sheriff has been brooding over the estate for six months ; and its local credi- tors are running one or two of its mills and mines, on a close and economical scale, — using up accu- mulated materials, but laying in no new supplies, — in order to obtain their claims. The ore now being obtained and thus worked returns from seven dol- lars to ten dollars a ton, which gives a small mar- gin of profit. It is all a sad, vast ruin, — a magnifi- cent gentleman, holding his head high, but wearing his last year's clothes, and dining around with his friends, — a sort of grand land and mine Micawber. There is doubtless life and value, possibly great wealth, in it still, but not of the sort or degree that has been set up for it. Divided up, and conducted by private parties or small companies on a moderate capital, as the Grass Valley mines are, or managed, as a whole even, with an eye to practical results alone, arid no such side issues as the presidency, or a grand Wall street stock-jobbing operation, or the V control of California politics, depending on it, and iVlrawing its life-blood, the estate may yet have a useful future before it. But the end to it as a grand Principality, as an exhaustless Fountain for political 312 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. and financial jobbing, seems surely to have come. Indeed, its most striking capacity always has been in carrying an immense, a magnificent mdebted- ness. A few men are rich from it here and m the East • but their wealth is more from the sale of stock and bonds in New York, than the profits of its mines in Mariposa. The illustration of the whole lies best, perhaps, in the sincere boast at- tributed to its most gallant but never thntty origi- nal owner. "Why," said General Fremont, "when I came to California, I was worth nothing, and now I owe two millions of dollars !" There are no very reliable statistics as to the ex- tent of the quartz-mining interest of California, or of its comparative results by the side of the gold- washings. The estimate of a prominent authority before me place* the number of quartz-mills in the State at six hundred, their cost at twelve million dollars, and their product, on an average of ten dol- lars to the ton of ore, at eighteen millions of dollars a year. But these figures are clearly wide of the fact; there can hardly be over one hundred quartz- mills, properly so called, in all California; and they do not divide the State's product with the gold- washers equally. Mining in California, of all kinds, is now much more systematically and intelligently conducted than ever before. It is losing its waste- ful, gambling characteristics. In 1 862, it apparently had its greatest production; the returns for 1864 were only about half as much ; and probably this year will show no gain upon the last. The interest is, on the whole, at the ebb tide. But the risks of TINENT. surely to have come, icity always has been (lagnificcnt indebtcd- om it here and in the lore from the sale of k, than the profits of je illustration of the the sincere boast at- lut never thrifty origi- leral Fremont, "when orth nothing, and now !" statistics as to the cx- terest of California, or r the side of the gold- a prominent authority ■ of quartz-mills in the cost at twelve million an average of ten dol- teen millions of dollars ire clearly wide of the er one hundred quartz- ill California; and they product with the gold- California, of all kinds, tically and intelligently It is losing its waste- In 1862, it apparently ; the returns for 1864 ich ; and probably this I the last. The interest tide. But the risks of THE IDAHO MINES. 313 the business will henceforth be less than heretofore ; the cost of production is cheaper here than in the newer and more remote fields; new and valuable fields are being discovered and opened among the Sierras ; and I am inclined to the belief that invest- ments in mining in California can be made with better results, at least with more certainty of profit, if less possible gains, than in any of the fresher and more fashionable regions. The Idaho mines are perhaps exciting the most interest at present among the people of the Coast ; and they are also beginning to divide enticements with those of Nevada and Colorado,, for eastern speculators and capitalists. Some reliable facts about them, which I have from original sources, will not be amiss therefore, and servt; to complete my general review of the mining developments of this whole region. The Boise Basin district is still rich in gold-washings, and is perhaps the richest region in that respect yet worked anywhere in the West. It has also rich quartz veins, and there are already eight mills in operation there, with eighty- four stamps. South Boise is less rich in placer dig- gings, but has an even larger development of the quartz interest. The ' uUion (gold) here holds a large proportion of silver, and is not worth over fourteen dollars an ounce. The Owyhee district borders on Oregon, and its mining wealth runs over into that State. The ore here is like that in Nevada, having more silver than gold in it. There are six mills now in this district, one of them with thirty stamps. The veins in Boise Basin and South 14 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. \^m Boise are small, like those of Reese River, in Nc vada, opening sometimes as low as four inches, but enlarging generally to four or five feet. The "Mammoth Vein" is from three to twelve feet wide ; the ore is generally free and simi)le, and is worked without roasting. The yield is from forty dollars a ton up ; one vein runs from forty to eighty dollars ; and others have yielded from two hundi cd to three hundred dollars a ton. It is not probable that the full value of the ore is obtained by tin- present means of working, and the tailings arc saved. The country is very barren, having the same general characteristics as eastern Oregon and Ne- vada. There are some good valleys, and timber is plenty enough for the present save in the Owyhee district. The price of labor is six dollars a day, and goods and provisions are in proportion. The population is made up mostly of the floating mining elements of California, Oregon and Nevada; the men who are always moving on for the newest mines; prosperous to-day, poor to-morrow. The winters in Idaho are severe, and the work in the placer diggings is then suspended. The miners float back to the older towns, to The Dalles and Port- land in Oregon, and San Francisco, in the fall, and spend there their summer savings, and start out again in the spring for the old diggings, if no newer and more fabulous ones have been since discovered. Taking these figures as reliable as statements about mines generally are from those engaged in the business, I do not see that Idaho really offers _j ITINENT. Rccsc River, in Nc- )w as four inches, but or five feet. The three to twelve feet lie and simple, and is lie yield is IVom forly lis from forty to eighty Jed from two hundicil a. It is not probable •e is obtained by tin- and the tailings ar*' ren, having the same stern Oregon and Nc- valleys, and timber is \t save in the Owyhee r is six dollars a day, re in proportion. The { of the floating mining gon and Nevada; the ng on for the newest poor to-morrow. The e, and the work in the spended. The miners , to The Dalles and Port- ancisco, in the fall, and savings, and start out Id diggings, if no newer e been since discovered. reliable as statements from those engaged in that Idaho really offers CALIFORNIA 3 AUVANTAUE FOR MINING. 31$ any better inducements for emigration and capital than Nevada and Colorado. It is probable my statements relate to the best veins, that the average will fall below these rates of production, and that the permanent prosperity of the mining interests and the sure progress of the State will await the profitable working of ores yielding from ten dollars to twenty-five dollars a ton, as is already adr Uted to be true for California, and for Virginia City, Nevada, and will probably soon be proven in Reese River and in Colorado. And this can hardly be done until quicker and cheaper communication is pro- vided. Only the rare veins, only the choice ore in any of these States can be worked to much profit, so long as all machinery, all food, all goods, used in the business and for the people, have to pay a freight tariff of ten to thirty cents a pound, and labor is from four to eight dollars a day. Caliibrnia has the advantage over her rivals in those respects now; and I repeat that it seems to mc mining is likely to be as profitable in this State for the next five years, taking all things into consideration, as in any of the newer regions. The others must wait for the rail road to give real and permanent and steady develop- ment and prosperity to greater apparent capacities. Do not complain, my reader, that this letter is getting dull with dry fact and statistics ; consider the mass of figures and " disgusting details " that I have before me, and have spared you, and be gratelul : and come now with me, and let us have the sensation of a visit into the abyssmal depths of the mines themselves. Our party have done con- 3l6 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. siderable of this descending into mines in our prog- ress across the country; for it became occasion of reproach and doubt of our intelligent future judgment, if we failed to go down into every miner's particular pet hole. Over in Austin, we had amuiing experience in this regard. We were to stay but three days there. But that is nothing, said the disappointed people; you. can't begin to see our mines in that time ; you better have staid away. Well, come on, was the reply; show us what you can in three days, and then let us see what is left that is new and strange. So we mount- ed ; and there was an extensive cavalcade of local officials, practical miners, speculators, and genteel bummers generally. We went over and around hills, down into mines, through mills, everywhere that our guides led us ; finding naturally great sim- ilarity of sights and testimony everywhere. By afternoon, our hosts had dwindled one-Lalf. The next morning, instead of a dozen, we had but three or four guides ; at noon, they were reduced to one, and at night we had exhausted not only his strength ,.iQ patience, but all he had to show us. We had seen /ustin and its mines, and had a day to spare! The lewer mines, whose shafts are but fifty or one hundred feet, are descended by a simple rope and bucket, worked by a common hand windlass ; older and deeper ones, by the same contrivance, with steam power: if, as is often the case, the vein runs at an angle, or Is reached below in that way, a little car runs down a steep track, held and drawn by a heavy rope and steam engine; while other shafts 4T1NENT, ito mines in our prof r it became occasion our intelligent future go down into every Over in Austin, we his regard. We were But that is nothing, ;; you. can't begin to you better have staid , the reply; show us I, and then let us see trange. So we mount- live cavalcade of local >eculators, and genteel rent over and around lugh mills, everywhere ng naturally great sim- lony everywhere. By vindled one-Lalf. The lozen, we had but three y were reduced to one, :d not only his strength I to show us. We had ind had a day to spare! shafts are but fifty or ;nded by a simple rope ommon hand windlass ; the same contrivance, often the case, the vein led below in that way, a rack, held and drawn by jine ; while other shafts T INTO THE GOULD AND CURRV MINE. 317 are provided with ladders, winding around, or set perpendicularly up and down. The latest, and safest and readiest contrivance for descending a perpendicular shaft is a cage or box, let down by a rope with steam power, but provided with sharp, opening arms that, in case the rope breaks, will catch into the walls with such power as to hold the cage and its load. Its certainty was proven to us by cutting the rope with an ax, when the cage sent out its fingers ar.d clung midway in its passage. We reached the insides of other mines by long tunnels, running into the veins from the surface, far down the hill-sides on which they were located. The dee-est worked mine on the Pacific Coast is in Amador County, this State, and is eight hundred feet down ; but some of those over in Nevada are fast approaching this depth; and the latter have the most extensive chambers below the surface of any in the country. The Gould & Curry mine, for instance, has several miles length of tunnels and shafts, and it is a full half day's journey to travel through it entirely. We entered this mine through a long tunnel, that strikes the vein several hundred feet below the surface. There were half a dozen of us in the pro- cession, each with a lighted candle, which would go out under the out-going draft, and so we soon con- tented ourselves with grouping along in the dim, cavernous light. It seemed a very long journey, and the nerves had to brace themselves. The most stolid person, stranger to such experience, will hard- ly fail to find hft heart beating a little quicker, as ■'M J »■"■■ 318 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. he goes into these far-away, narrow recesses in the bowels of the earth. I never failed to remember the principle that "nature abhors a. vacuum," and to wonder if she wouldn't take the present occasion to close up this little one that I was in. At last we reached the scenes of the ore and the work after U ; and among these we clambered and wandered about, down shafts to this or that level, and then out on side tunnels through the vein in both directions; up again by narrow, pokerish ladders to a higher set of chambers, in and out, up and down, till we were lost in amazing confusion. Here was, indeed, a city of streets and population far under the surface of the earth. Many of the chambers or streets were deserted ; in others we found little coteries of miners, picking away at the hard rock, and loading up cars of the ore, that were sent out by the tunnels and up by the shafts to the surface above. Here, too, was a building in a AVide hall under ground, and steam engine to help on the work. Some of the chambers had closed in after being worked out of ore ; others have been filled up to prevent caving in and causing great disaster overhead; but many of the open passages were stayed or braced open still with huge frame work of timber ; more lumber, indeed, as I have told you, I believe, is used for this purpose in this single mine, than has been put into all the buildings of Virginia City itself, with its ten thousand to fifteen thousand inhabitants. And m many of the passages, such is the outward pressure into the vacuum, that these timbers, as big as a man's body, are bent and splintered almost in two. TINENT. irrow recesses in the : failed to remember ihors a. vacuum," and ; the present occasion I was in. At last we and the work after it ; i and wandered about, jvel, and then out on n in both directions; 1 ladders to a higher up and down, till we n. Here was, indeed, n far under the surface chambers or streets found little coteries of tiard rock, and loading sent out by the tunnels surface above. Here, ie hall under ground, n the work. Some of ifter being worked out id up to prevent caving r overhead ; but many stayed or braced open timber ; more lumber, believe, is used for this than has been put into .City itself, with its ten i inhabitants. And in is the outward pressure ie timbers, as big as a plintered almost in two. COMING OUT OF THE MINE. 3>9 Great pine sticks, eighteen inches square, were thus bent, like a bow, or yawned with gaping splin- ters ; and the spaces left in some places for us to go through were in this way reduced so small that we almost had to crawl to get along. Do you wonder that we began to grow weary, and thought we had seen enough? Besides, the mine was oppressively hot and close ; the mercury was up to one hundred degrees and more, and the sweat poured from us like water. One of our party grew faint and feeble, and we voted to take the near- est way out. This happened to be the most peril- ous and trying ; but we did not realize that, and our miner guide, unsensitive from experience, did not think of it. So he started us into a long shaft, running straight up and down for several hundreds of feet, dark and damp as night, with no breaks or landing places, and set us going one after another, up a perpendicular ladder fastened to its side. We only took in a sense of the thing after we had got started ; each must carry his lighted candle, hold on, and creep ahead ; a single misstep by any one, the fainting of our invalid, or of any of us, all weary and unstrung, would not only have plunged that one headlong down the long fatal flight, to be- come a very Mantilinean cold body at the bottom, but would have swept everybody below him on the ladder, like a row of bricks, to the same destination and destruction. There was, you may well believe, a stern summoning of all remaining strength and nerves, a close, firm grip on the rounds of the lad- der, a silent, grave procession, much and rapid 320 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. thought, and a very long breath, and a very fervent if voiceless prayer, when we got to the daylight and tne top. Our part of the shaft and the ladder was about one hundred and fifty ^eet; it seemed very long ; and we were content to call our day's work done when it was over. Brains won the victory over body ; but both were weary enough at the end. . ~5ut if I prolong this story : y further, you will almost-, wish I had never got out of that shaft I SO' ani of H( Tl- cis m\ ho en foi Ai m m: yo "V Sa yo ou CO in riNENT. h, and a very fervent )t to the daylight and t and the ladder was feet; it seemed very call our day's work tins won the victory ry enough at the end. J y further, you will xi of that shaft I LETTER XXVIII. SOCIAL LIFE IN SAN FRANCISCO: THE WOMEN i RELIGION AND MINISTERS. San Francisco, August 3a You must be a very indifferent sort of person, and have no friends, to escape during the first week of a visit here an invitation to drive out to the Cliff House for breakfast and a sight of the sea-lions. This is the one special pet dissipation of San Fran- cisco, the very trump card in its hospitality. A night among the Chinese houses and gambling holes is reserved as a choice tit-bit for the pruri- ently curious few ; but the Cliff and the seals are for all ages and conditions of men and women. And, indeed, this is a very pleasan% reviving ex- cursion. A drive of five or six milts, along a hard- made road over the intervening sand-hills, brings you out to the broad Pacific, rolling in and out, "wide as waters be." You strain your eyes for Sandwich Islands and China, — they are right before you ; no object intervenes, and you feel that you ought to see them. Just at the right, around the corner, is the Golden Gate ; and vessels are passing in and out the bay. A rare cliff rock places you 14* " I , I- 322 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. beyond the sands, within the ocean ; and a f,ne hotel on its very edge offers every hospitality— at a price. Out upon half a dozen fragmentary rocks, like solid castles moored in the ocean below and before, are the seals and the pelicans. The rocks are cov- ered and alive with them. You remember Barnum s seals at New York and Boston, don't you?— great sleek and slimy amphibious calves,-all bodies, small heads and short, webby feet,-bobbing up and down in their water tanks, and most making you weep with their large, Uquid human eyes, like a hunger- ing, sorrowing woman's ? Well, here is their native water and rock; from these rocks they were cap- tured, and here by twenties and fifties you see their relations. Crawling up from the water, awkwardly and blunderingly like babe at its first creeping, they spread themselves in the sun all over the rocks twenty and thirty feet high sometimes, and he there asif comatose; anon raising the head to look abo^. and utter a rough, wide-soundmg bark; ol.cn two or three, by reason of a fresh squatter on their ter- ritory, get into combat, and strike and bite languidly at one another, barking and grumbling meanwhie like long-lunged dogs; and again, tired of discard or weary of heaven, they plunge, with more of spring than they do anything else, back into the deep se. An opera-glass brings them close to you upon the hotel'pia-a, and there is a singular fascm^-; - sitting and watching their performances They je of all sizes from fifty pounds weigh up to two hun dred and three hundred. Sea gulls and pelicans the latter huge and awkward in flight as turkeys. in tl- ri s\ fc ri b u f( ri a ITINENT. cean ; and a ♦'.ne hotel ospitality — at a price, igmentary rocks, like ;ean below and before, i. The rocks are cov- lu remember Barnum's :on, don't you ?— great lives,— all bodies, small -bobbing up and down lost making you weep m eyes, like a hunger- ell, here is their native : rocks they were cap- ind fifties you see their I the water, awkwardly t its first creeping, they ,un all over the rocks, sometimes, and He there ; the head to look about inding bark ; olicn two ih squatter on their ter- strike and bite languidly i grumbling meanwhile I again, tired of discord nge, with more of spring back into the deep sea. n close to you upon the I singular fascination in jerformances. They are is weight up to two hun- Sea gulls and pelicans, ard in flight as turkeys. THE PACIFIC BEACH— "SOCIETY. 323 dispute possession of the rocks ; resting in great flocks, or with loud flaps flying around and around, overlooking the water for passing food. Weary of these sights, the visitor seeks neighbor- ing charming coves among the rocks below, and lies there out of the wind, watching the rolling waves rising and breaking over the island rocks, and sweeping in up the seducing sands to toy with his fefct. And again, mounting horse or carriage, he rides swiftly and smoothly along the neighboring broad beach of hard sand for several miles; the unbroken, wide-reaching, long-rolling ocean is be- fore his sight; and his horse's feet dance in merry race with the incoming surf ;— and thus solemnly awed with ocean expanse, alteriiate with dainty titillation of amused senses, he closes his charming half day at the Cliflf. "Society" in this representative town of the Pa- cific Coast is somewhat difiicult of characterization. It holds in chaos all sorts of elements ; the very best, and the very worst, and all between. There is much of New York in it, much of St. Louis and Chicago, and a good deal that is original and local ; born of wide separation from the centers of our best social civilization; of the dominating materi- alism and masculineism of all life here; of compar- ative lack of homes and families and their influences. There are probably more bachelors, great, lusty fel- lows, who ought to be ashamed of themselves, living in hotels or in "lodgings," in this town, than in any place of its size in the world. There is want of femininity, spirituality in the current tone of the ft' i.*m ACROSS THE CONTINENT. place ; lack of reverence for women ; fewer women to reverence, than our eastern towns are accustomed to. You hear more than is pleasant of private scandals ; of the vanity and weakness of women ; of the infideUty of wives. "It is the cussedest place for women," said an observant Yankee citizen, some two or three years from home, and not forget- ful yet of mother, sister and cousin.— "a town of men and taverns and boarding-houses and billiard- saloons." Yet there seem to be plenty, of women,— such as they are; and Montgomery Street will otfer the promenader as many pretty and striking faces, per- haps more in proportion, than Washington Street or Broadway. But the dominating qtiality, like mercy, is not strained ; it savors of the mannish- ness, the materialism, the "fastness" and the "loud- ness" of the country; and paradoxical as it may appear, by contrast with eastern society, the men seem of a higher grade than the women,— better for men than the latter as women. Nor is this in- consistent with reason ; the men, dealing with great practical necessities and duties, are less harmed, on the whole, by the dominant materialism of life here, than the women, whose pressing responsibilities are lower and fewer;— as a fine, delicate blade is more roughened in cutting the way through bram- ble and brush than a tough and broader edge. All which is not only natural, but inevitable. In all new countries, where the first fight is for life and wealth with rough nature, the masculine qual- ity must ever be dominant ; and the feminine ele- wm INENT. HOW THE LADIES DRESS. 325 men ; fewer -Aromen wns are accustomed pleasant of private weakness of women ; It is the cussedest vant Yankee citizen, ome, and not forget- lousin, — "a town of -houses and billiard- ty of women, — such Street will offer the d striking faces, per- i Washington Street inating qtiality, like 'ors of the mannish- ness"and the "loud- aradoxical as it may em society, the men the women, — better nen. Nor is this in- en, dealing with great s, are less harmed, on iterialism of life here, ssing responsibilities fine, delicate blade is le way through bram- id broader edge, al, but inevitable. In first fight is for life :, the masculine qual- and the feminine ele- ments must be influenced by it, more than they in- fluence it in turn. The senses rule the spirit. All civilization, all progress tends to the increase of the feminine element in our nature, and in life ; con- trast the centuries, and we see it creeping in every- where, in men and women alike, in religion, in in- tellectual culture, in art, in social intercourse, — • softening, refining, hallowing, — the atmosphere of all modern life pictures. Women, who possess and represent this blossom of our civilization, are by no means wanting here, — no more perfect speci- mens have I ever met anywhere ; tender, tasteful, true ; and gaining in aggregate influence over so- ciety day by day ; but yet not to-day representing or making what is called " society." The ladies generally dress in good taste. Paris is really as near San Francisca as New York, and there are many foreign famil'es here. But the styles are not so subdued as in our eastern cities ; a high- er or rather louder tone prevails ; rich, full colors, and sharp contrasts; the startling effects that the Parisian demi-monde seeks, — these are seen dor"i- nating here. In costliness of costume, too, there n* apparent rivalry among the San Francisco ladies. Extravagance is lamented as a common weakness among them, and leading, where fortune is so fickle as here, to many a worse one often. Perhaps in no other American city. would the ladies invoice so high per head as in San Francisco, when they go out to the opera, or to party, or ball. Their point lace is deeper, their moire antique stiffer, their skirts a trifle longer, their corsage an inch lower, their f fi 1 ■; , is 326 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. diamonds more brilUant.-and more of them. -than the cosmopolite is likely to find elsewhere. AnotheJ "society" item, and we -U. pa- on- The common dining hour being five and s.xo clock, the women are denied the fhet.c go^sj^^Mng tea^ party, so peculiar to New Lngland. The lunch party" is their substitute, and a famous feature of Cinine social life it is. The hour .s from h.gh noon to two o'clock, when the men are busy at thur work, and the women have this dissipation all to themselves. Richer and more various as a meal Ire the U:nches than the teas they substitute ; the eating and attendant gossiping often absorb a whole afternoon, leaving the participants appetiteless. it >s true, for the family dinner, but with what comp n- sating nuterial for garnishing the meal for the household! I have never even so much as seen throth a crack in the door one of these Califorma femile lunch parties ; but confidential confessions lead me to gi.'. ^hem a high place m the social fea- tures and dfstractions of the life of the town And yet for high art in the line of the delicate but in- dustrious scandal-mongering and the virtuous plot- ting against masculine authority, that we are wont to attribute to these exclusive gathenngs of our dear Srs. it does still seem to me that the New England conjunction of twilight and green hyson are much more favorable. Doubtless, these Cali- fornia Eves are bolder in their habits, as becomes their life and the grosser evils they are the victims of; but how much more daintily and dehcately the stiletto and Ike tongue, the knitting-needle and the _L INliNT. nore of thcin,— than [ elsewhere, id we will pass on. ; five and six o'clock, 'hetic, gossiping tca- igland. The "lunch a famous feature of je hour is from high men are busy at their his dissipation all to re various as a meal i they substitute ; the ; often absorb a whole ants appctiteless, it is it with what compen- ig the meal for the iren so much as seen ne of these California onfidential confessions place in the social fca- lifeof thetown. And jf the delicate but in- and the virtuous plot- )rity, that we are wont ive gatherings of our tn to me that the New light and green hyson Doubtless, these Cali- leir habits, as becomes ils they are the victims ntily and delicately the knitting-needle and the THE NEW ENGLAND SPIRIT DOMINANT. 32/ eye can do their sweet work under a little softening of the shadows and the inspiration of hot tea on a stomach that has already done its duty for the day ! In affairs of public morals, and education and re- ligion, there is much activity in San Francisco, and a healthy progress in the right direction is visibly constant. The New England elements arc clearly dominant here and through the whole Pacific Coast region ; softened from their old Puritanic habits, — marrying themselves to the freer and more sensuous life of a new country with a cosmopolitan popula- tion, but still preserving their best qualities of de- cency, of order, of justice, of constant progress upward in morality and virtue. The "Pikes" were the first people all over this country,— emigrants from Missouri, to which again they had been emi- grants from the southern States, — and, joined to some direct importations from the home of the chivalry, they gave tone to society, and law, or rather want of law, to the government of city and State. But the Vigilance Committee revolution of ten years ago, — a mob in the interest of justice and orderand morality, — inaugurated a new era. That was the North against the South, — the clash of their civilizations ; and the North, seizing the in- strumentalities of violence, rose and destroyed vio- lence itself. Since then, there has been a steady, though struggling and sometimes hesitating, im- provement in the character of all the life of city and Coast. Ambition and pride in the things that are re- spectable and proper are singularly prominent ; and L 328 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. men contribute lavishly to build fine school-houses and support churches, whose lives arc not especially controlled by the influences that school-houses and churches create. The gamblers give way gracious- ly to the progress towards decency and respecta- bility, and join in outward observance of the Sab- bath, help to build churches, and nuikc orderly tho street life of the town. It is very interesting t(» watch the various stages of this progress upward, from the new mining town of one or two years' life, up to San Francisco and Portland, which arc the fullest flower of Pacific civilization. The order and decorum oT the streets of these two cities arc as perfect as those of Boston ; the San Francisco police system is admirable, and a woman may walk the streets of this city in the evening, with less danger of insult and annoyance, than in those of Springfield, even. Money is lavished, even, on the school-houses, which are the most stately and elegant buildings in town, and the schools themselves have all the "mod- ern improvements," good and bad. There is spe- cial life, too, in the churches ; the Sabbath is cer- tainly as well observed as in New York ; the con- gregations are large, day and evening ; the Sunday schools even boast of a larger attendance, in pro- portion to the population, than those of any othei city in the country ; new church edifices are con- stantly going up; and, as your eastern parishes have reason to know, there is an eag^r seeking of the broadest and best pulpit talent to fill them. The demand seems to be for smart, effective ora- INENT. 1 fine school-houses es are not especially It school-houses and s give way gracious- cency and rcspccta- icrvance of the Sab- nd nuikc orderly tho very interesting t(» lis progress upward, (f one or two years' Portland, which arc ilization. The order these two cities arc I ; the San Francisco d a woman may walk e evening, with less ice, than in those of m the school-houses, 1 elegant buildings in 'cs have all the " mod- bad. There is spe- ; the Sabbath is cer- New York ; the con- evening ; the Sunday ;r attendance, in pro- m those of any othei irch edifices are con- 'our eastern parishes 3 an eager seeking of t talent to fill them, r smart, effective ora- THE CLERGY — REV. MR. .STEnniNS. 329 tors, as well as holy men; and the churches are not easily pleased. Among the "orthodox" preachers, Rev. Dr. Wadsworlh, from I'hiUulelphia, i)erhaps ranks first ; and his society, a Presbyterian one, is probably the largest and richest of that order. He is more of a scholar than an orator, however ; but is greatly re- spected and beloved. Just now, Rev. Dr. Scudder, from Doston, is making his debut as pastor of one of the Presbyterian societies, and is drawing large houses. He has a free, popular. Ward Ueecher style of talking in the pulpit, which, if really genu ine and natural, will undoubtedly help him to per- manent popularity and usefulness here. The Con- gregational society, that bid so high for Rev. A. L. Stone, of Boston, is still in the market for a first- class preacher. Rev. Horatio Stebbins, of the Uni- tarian church, which can boast a larger parish in- come than any society in America, is, of course, chief among the liberals ; and his many New Eng- land friends will be rejoiced to know that he has won a high position already among the intellectual and religious leaders, in California society. Starr King's peculiar popularity and remarkable career here made it hard for any one to come after him in the same pulpit; nobody could fill his place; for that matter, no man was ever great enough to fill anybody's else place: but i* was early found that Mr. Stebbins could make a place for himself, and nil it too. And this he has done. His superiority m pure intellectual and spiritual qualities is con- ceded ; and I have heard prominent citizens, with 330 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. I-*" no partial kinship to his church to influence their opinion, speak of him often as the first man in in- tellect on the Coast. His first year here is now closing, and though his salary is six thousand dol- lars a year in gold, his friends have just made him up an anniversary gift of four thousand dollars (gold), by way of indicating that they know him and like him, and to repair the damages of his re- moval from the East. There is large extra demand upon all the clergy- men here for leadership in all literary and moral enterprises, in all matters, indeed, involving the public well-being. Mr. Stebbins has been particu- larly called upon for public addresses during the past season ; and there is also much impatience for his presence and preaching among the liberal relig- ious populations of the interior and of Oregon, where no societies of his faith yet exist, — so that there is an especial need of an able associate and assistant to divide his great and growing field and severe duties with him.* In the country parishes, particularly in the min- ing districts, the religious organizations are not so flourishing. The populations have decreased in many cases ; — there is nothing more desolate, in- deed, than the appearance and prospects of these interioi mining villages, the interest, which gave them sudden rise and. prosperity, all gone or nearly *Such provision has since been made by the Unitarian organi- zation in the East, and Rev. Charles G. Ames. of Albany has gone out to California for this very purpose. He has excellent qualities for such service, and will admirably supplement Mr. Stebbins' pe- culiar talents and labors. S ti n u ii tl it P cl 01 ai C m is m d< ci w ^m 1 NTINENT. irch to influence their IS the first man in in- first year here is now ry is six thousand dol- is have just made him four thousand dollars I that they know him the damages of his re- nd upon all the clergy- all literary and moral indeed, involving the bbins has been particu- c addresses during the ,so much impatience for among the liberal relig- Lterior and of Oregon, faith yet exist,— so that if an able associate and t and growing field and particularly in the min- organizations are not so ons have decreased in thing more desolate, in- ; and prospects of these he interest, which gave perity, all gone or nearly made by the Unitarian organi- es G. Ames. of Albany has gone lose. He has excellent qualities )ly supplement Mr. Stebbins' pe- A FIELD FOR MISSIONARIES. 331 spent, and nothing taking its place ;— and the ability to fill the churches and pay the clergyman is cor- respondingly reduced. The people who remain are uniformly generous and self-sacrificing in support- ing the institutions of religion, but divided up into the various sects, each with its meeting-house, and its zealous pride of doctrine, no one of them has power to support a minister creditably. Many clergymen are therefore going away, literally starved out; and numerous -districts of interior California are actually becoming missionary fields. All this Coast and its interior mining districts have great need to-day of earnest, unsectarian Christian min- isters and missionaries. The people are in the main responsive to right appeal ; they are eager to develop all the institutions and elements of the best civilization, and will contribute liberally of money, whenever they have it, in aid thereof; but it is no holiday work that invites those who would lead them. The men and women, who engage in it, should come with resolute heart, and the power and willingness to rough it in some res^ -cts, and come to stay at least five years,— not for a selfish pleasure trip to' see the country, and pay expenses by preach- ing and prospecting in the mines. This country has had enough of that sort of martyr-missionaries ; they are of most profit to the steamship companies ; but for men of the other sort, there is no more in- teresting or fruitful or pressing field of labor, the wortd over, than this New Nation of our West. In all these matters, to which I have devoted this letter,— society, manners, morals, education, re- 'I * ACROSS THE CONTINENT. llgion— the great want, the great reformer, is the Pacific Railroad. These, as much as mmcs and commerce, await the vivifying and elevat.ag mflu- ence of that great instrumentaUty. Every discus- sion of the interests and the needs of this half of our Continent ends here. All life on the Coast is a circle leading to that. Everybody here sees this, realizes it, far more painfully than you possibly can in the East. I borrow the philosophical and im- pressive words of Rev. Mr. Stebbins, in closing his sermon last Sunday, to repeat this idea to you -to show you how it is felt here, and how you ought to feel it there : — "The primeval command to ' replenish andsubdue' the earth, U promulgated anew to us on these outer borders of the world. We, upon this Coast, need, above all material advantage, as the condi- tion of a noble social life and progress, an unbroken and swift com- munication by railway and magnetic circuit with the places winch we still fondly call our Home. The social effect of such relations would be unspeakable in giving permanence and quiet to society. This longing, thav comes like the sigh of the night-wmd over the habitations of men, would be hushed. When the continental rail- way and the ocean line to China shall be complete, the London cos- mopolite will make the circuit of the globe in ninety days, and we shall be nourished by the blood of the heart of the Y?Drld. Intelli- cence will be increased, society liberalized by intercourse, and ex-, temporaneous adventure driven out by better industries as m the olden time the temple of God was cleared of money-changers by the presence of a superior spirit Men have been attracted here by the dangerous and corrupting passion for gold. The mherent ten- dencies to barbarism in that adventure can be overcome and neu- tralized only by assimilation with the best forms of society, and bringing these distant places into close proximity with civilizjtion, that the whole world may be tributary of its best things. " It is not wise for us to flatter ourselves with false appearwices or expectations. The bare historic fact is, that no fine state of hu- man i of ex theg govei will £ prodi on th of na but n plays his b porte Noth comn with manl grow made impu perm ways worU porte ment us in whicl tion that' ques no b their licve ther her : worli "I whic manl thus a ste instr TINENT. REV. MR. STEBBINS ON CALIFORNIA SOCIETY. 333 ;reat reformer, is the much as mines and : and elevati/ig influ- :ality. Every discus- needs of this half of il life on the Coast is rybody here sees this, than you possibly can philosophical and im- tebbins, in closing his t this idea to you,— to ind how you ought to lish and subdue' the earth, is r borders of the world. We, :rial advantage, as the condi- i, an unbroken and swift corn- circuit with the places which social effect of such relations manence and quiet to society. ;h of the night-wind over the . When the continental rail- be complete, the London cos- globe in ninety days, and we e heart of the v?Drld. Intelli- alized by intercourse, and ex- ^ by better industries, as in the :leared of money-changers by en have been attracted here by n for gold. The inherent ten- ire can be overcome and neu- he best forms of society, and )se proximity with civilization, y of its best things, irselves with false appearances [act is, that no fine state of hu- man society has ever existed over gold mines. And the only ground of expectation we have, that society here will prove an exception to the general law, is, that the compensating influences of a beneficent government and swift communication with the world of mankind will give us the laws, the manners and the religion which no gold- producing country has ever been able to make for itself. Man, here on these shores, contends not merely with the uhreclaimed powers of nature, as the pioneer of New England or the Mississippi valley, but nature herself is dishonest. She bribes and corrupts him, and plays a trick on all his being. She sneers at his industry, makes his business a joke, and his word a lie. The world must be im- ported here to make nature honest, and outwit her secret arts. Nothing can save us from Spanish decline and Mexic littleness but communication with the world; that rapid and sure intercourse with human society, which assimilates the interests and the life of mankind. And I make this moral predicamen*- concerning tho growth and prosperity of our State ; That the powers which have made her prosperous thus far have done their best, and that no great impulse of human affairs, having breadth and hight and depth of permanent, xmtiring progress, can be felt here until the great high- ways are opened over sea and land ; and the world, the many-sided world of industries and arts, and commerce and literature, is im- ported to us. The primeval command comes to us with the aug- mented authority of our providential vocation, and is reiterated to us in original sublimity of moral law from every mountain summit which nature raises up as a barrier to our assimilation with the Na- tion and mankind. It is only by *he introduction of new powers that we can conserve those we have. Compared wi^h this all other questions for us are idle. And the people of California can make no better investment of their time, their talents, their money, or their public spirit, — and I would that I could persuade you to be- lieve it and quit all your lesser contradictions, — than in turning all the powers of the State to overcome the barriers which lie between her and the Nation's hearthstone, between her and the heart of the world. "Human society is made for religion: — for the ends and aims which religion suggests. Whatever promotes the assimilation of mankind, whatever brings nations and peoples into communion, thus supplementing each other in the completeness of humanity, is a step in the advancing kingdom of God. This earth is a musical instrument not )'et fully strung. When every Coast shall be peo- 334 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. m ri- T>led every mountain barrier overcome, every abyss sp-.nned, and Se peoples of the earth shall flow together as in prophet.c v.s,on to the mountain of the Lord's house, and harmony of common good shall persuade the lion and the lamb; when ^^-^^f^^ Greater than conflict, and order than violence, when manners shall IZZ the races as a garment of beauty, and religion conserve soc- enrobe the ^=»^" * » soul.-then this earth shall give its sound kind." These are, indeed, solemn, majestic truths, most impressively stated. I would that they reach every soul East and West, and bring forth early, earnest fruit. CLIN SS . feft'i " ' riNENT. every abyss sp"u,nned, and ther as in prophetic vision and harmony of common lamb; when laws shall be lence ; when manners shall and religion conserve soci- nis earth shall give its sound B, and the providential pur- s the beacon lighu of man- majestic truths, most that they reach every ig forth early, earnest LETTER XXIX. CLIMATE AND PRODUCTIONS: COST OF LIVING: THE CURRENCY QUESTION: THE MINT. San Francisco, August 3». The climate of all this Pacific side of the Ro'-ky Mountains is one in its distinctive qualities. As a change from that of the Atlantic States, there can be no doubt of its beneficial influence upon the health, both because it is a change, and because it is less variable. It offers none of those wide sweeps of temperature that, both in degree and in sudden- ness, so try a weak constitution, and break down a strong one. Snow and ice are things unknown out of the mountains, in California, Oregon and Nevada. The summer sun is fiercer than in the Middle and New England States ; but its oppressiveness is broken by a constant vitality in the air, and uni- formly cool nights, that do not accompany your ^ July and August weather io the East. Neither the long summer drouth nor the winter rains appear to be an element of ill health or even of great dis- comfort to an invalid in themselves. The rains ai ; not oppressive save in the central valley of Oregon ; ?nd their chief inconvenience is felt in the mud in the country, as that of the summer's drouth is in J 336 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. W 'i hii! ' f < '^t the deep and sensitive dust, both making walking and riding off the pavements a great trial to clean- liness and comfort. , , • , But the evenness of the climate and the mde- scribable inspiration of the air are the great features of life here, and the great elements in its health. There is ^ steady tone in the atmosphere, like draft of champagne, or subtle presence of iron. It in- vites to labor, and makes it possible. Horses can travel more miles here in a day than at the East; and men and women feel impelled to an unusual activity San Francisco, which has the advantage of the interior in a cooler summer, probably offers more working days in the year than any other town or city in America; less occasion for loss from bad weather and consequent ill-health. But this city, though favorable to preserving health, is bad for regaining it. Its doctors say it is the easiest place to keep well in, but the hardest to get well m. They send their invalids into the country. It is too early yet to determine the permanent influences of the climate^of the Pacific Coast upon the race. The fast and rough life of the present generation here is not sure basis for calculation But the indications are that the human stock wil •be improved both in physical and nervous qual- ities The children are stout and lusty. 1 he climate invites and permits with impunity such a larVe open-air life that it could hardly be otherwise There is great freedom from lung difficulties ; but the weakness of the country is in nervoHS affections. The journey hither is a serious and tedious one. riNENT. 0th making walking . great trial to cleau- imate and the inde- are the great features sments in its health, itmosphere, like draft ence of iron. It in- lossible. Horses can ay than at the East ; pelled to an unusual Lch has the advantage mmer, probably offers r than any other town ision for loss from bad lealth. But this city, ing health, is bad for r it is the easiest place irdest to get well in". » the country, ermine the permanent the Pacific Coast upon igh life of the present ; basis for calculation. : the human stock will cal and nervous qual- tout and lusty. The with impunity such a lid hardly be otherwise, n lung difficulties ; but is in nervoi^s affections, erious and tedious one, THE FRUITS OF CALIFORNIA. 337 either by land or water, and no really weak invalid should undertake it. But persons with a tendency to weak lungs, or with a low physical system that is being sapped by our rough eastern changes in temperature, can imdoubtedly come over here with advantage, and secure a longer and a heartier life. San Francisco is no place for a weak lung in sum- mer, however; the interior valleys must then be resorted to by those thus afflicted ; but in winter this rity is as favorable a residence for health as any in the State. The abundance and variety of fruits and vegeta- bles, and their great size and vigorous health, con- tinue to be a surprise and a pleasure here. No State in the Union has such wealth in these respects as California. Nearly everything that the temperate and torrid zones unite to offer is hers by birth-right or domestication. The southern counties send up figs and oranges and bananas and tenderest of grapes; the northern, apples in abundance; and peaches, strawberries, plums, blackberries and pears come from all. And gnarled or wormy fruit is never seen ; everything is lound, fair and large. So of vegetables, — the range is wide ; only Indian corn is fastidious and requires to be humored ; and the size and perfection of shape and vigor of health are uniformly such as are seen in the East only at cattle show exhibitions and in small quantities. But the fastidious Yankee, who never forgets his home or his mother's pies and preserves, insists that the quality of the fruit and vegetables is below that of the productions of the orchards and gardens IS 22 338 ACROSS VUE CONTINENT. mii of the Middle States and New England,-that the el just a lower flavor and delicacy m them 1 Icrifici of piquancy and richness to perfecUon of Shane and bulk. It may be this is only an lUus ra- tLn of that great moral truth that Burton used to mpress upon his Chambers street theater audiences^ nhat the sassengers of infancy "^^^"^ ""^^^ ' ""^ yet I am inclined to believe there is really some- [hing in it. But he must be an ungratefu churl howLr. who is not content with the wealth and ■iety that nature offers us here for food, and at comparatively low prices, too. The table can b both better and more cheaply spread m nearly al respects here in San Francisco, than m any other Am'ertan city at this moment. Butter perhaps, is f weak point, and so is hsh; for though the fish o the Pacific are generally the same m species and appearance as those of the East, the quality is con- fcLdly and uniformly below. Everything in the markets, however, is sold by the pound; potatoes and grains and fruit, as well as meat and butter. But this is surely the fairest test. Weight is the fin St measure of the real worth of all food ; and why should it not be applied to all as to ^orr^^^^^^ The best time to see this country is in the spring. From February to June, when the rains are dwin- dling away to greet the summer drouth, and vege- tation of all sorts comes into its freshes^riche life then, according to all testimony, is the most ctrming season for the traveler. All these now bare and russet hills, these dead and drear plains are then alive with vigorous green, disputed, shaded and The unc no I luxi for all? wh{ and lian the wat Th( mo! nat sou Fel Ocl eve the voj rail I twc Pri mu da) hei or pre anc to-: riNENT. Jew England,— that id delicacy in them ; incss to perfection of lis is only an illustra- that Burton used to eet theater audiences, ;y never return;" and there is really some- an ungrateful churl, with the wealth and here for food, and at ), The table can be y spread in nearly all ico, than in any other tt. Butter, perhaps, is for though the fish of ; same in species and ;ast, the quality is con- ft. Everything in the /■ the pound; potatoes 11 as meat and butter, it test. Weight is the rth of all food; and why 11 as to some articles ? :ountry is in the spring, len the rains are dwin- amer drouth, and vege- nto its freshest, richest testimony, is the most •aveler. AH these now i dead and drear plains, ; green, disputed, shaded THE TIME TO VISIT C> LIFORNIA. 339 and glorified with all the rival and richer colors. The wild flowers of California fairly carpet all the iinrultivated ground. No June prairie of Illinois ; no garden of eastern culture can rival them. For luxuriance, for variety and depth and hight of color, fcr complete occupation of the hills and the plains, all agree that there is nothing like it to be seen any- where else in nature. Then, too, the trees are clean and fiesh ; the live oak groves are enriched to bril- liant gardens by the flowers and grass below ; and the pine and fir forests hold majestic yet tender watch over all the various new life of the woods. Those who would visit he Pacific States under the most favorable circumstances, for seeing all their natural beauty, and studying all their improved re- sources.'would do best to come around by sea in February, and go home overland in September or October. That would afford ample time to observe everything leisurely, a ' \t its best estate. After the first two or three da_yo out from New York, the voyage at this season of starting is made under mild and pleasant skies on both sides the Continent It is not easy to make any exact comparison be- tween the cost of living here and that at the East. Prices of everything, both here and there, are now much unsettled and fickle ; what might be true to- day would be wholly changed next week. Then here, there is a lack of settled and uniform habits or scales of living; an irregular, fitful ^extravagance prevails ; in luck, to-jjay, a man drinks champagne and flaunts his jewelry at the Occidental; while to-morrow, fortune frowning, he is sponging a din- ±, ACROSS THE CONTINENT. ncr and a chink from his friends, and takct, a fifty- cent lodging at the What Cheer House. Large profits are generally demanded by the tradeis; nothing is sold for less than "two bits" (twenty-five cents) ; and a fifty-eent piece is the lowest com that it is respectable to earry. or throw to the man who waters your horse. As a general rule, no statement can be more intelligent than that it costs about as much to live in San Francisco in gold as it does in Boston and New York in greenbacks load, and consequently board, is cheaper than this here ; bu dry goods and luxuries arc generally more At the best hotels, the Occidental and Cosmopolitan, he price is three dollars a day in gold, which is the same as the four dollars and fifty cents per diem in greenbacks of your first New York and Boston houses. - . The "What Cheer House" is the famous rcsor for miners and mechanics ; and it has niade several fine fortunes in furnishing meals and beds at fifty cents each. Some of the features of this establish, ment are original and noteworthy. It ^^^^^ ^'^ pecial office for receiving clothes to be washed and mended, a well chosen popular library with five thousand volumes, full files ^^ "^J^P^P^^^^^^^j nfagazines. an extensive and valuable cabmet of minerals, and a beautiful collection of stuffed birds all for the accommodation and entertammen of its guests. Its reading room is generally well-filled ^th plain, rough-looking mc«, each w|th book o newspaper in hand. The rule of the establishmen is for every guest to buy a supply of tickets fo. :1NENT. Lis, and takcb a fifty- iccr Mouse. Larf;e ed by the traders; wo bits" (twenty-five s the lowest coin that irow to the man who ;ral rulC; no statement ;hat it costs about as ) in gold as it does in :enbacks. Food, and r than this here ; but ncrally more. At the nd Cosmopolitan, the in gold, which is the fifty cents per diem in iw York and Boston " is the famous resort nd it has made several neals and beds at fifty Ltures of this establish- vorthy. It has an es- )thes to be washed and jular library with five ;s of newspapers and id valuable cabinet of lection of stuffed birds, nd entertainment of its is generally well-fiUed iie«, each with book or ule of the establishment a supply of tickets for THE SAN FRANCISCO MARKETS. 341 meals and lodgings on his arrival, and the proprietor redeems with cash what have not been used up when the customer leaves. A "drink" at an aristocratic San Francisco bar is two bits (twenty-five cents), at a more democratic establishment one bit (ten cents). There is no coin in use less than a dime (ten cents); one of these answers as "a bit;" two of them will pass for two bits, or twenty-five cents ; but the man who often offers two dimes for a quarter of a dollar is voted a " bummer." Some quotations from the retail family markets will still further illustrate the prices of food and living here : butter seventy-five cents a pound, eggs seventy cents a dozen, hams and bacon thirty cents a pound, potatoes one to two and one-half cents a pound, cauliflowers one dollar to one dollar and twenty-five cents per dozen, green peas five to ten cents a pound, apples four to ten cents a pound, peaches five to ten cents a pound, pears three to ten cents, grapes three to ten cents, new figs eight to fifteen cents a pound, dried figs twenty to forty cents, chickens seventy-five cents apiece, turkeys thirty cents a pound, ducks one dollar and fifty cents to two dollars a pair, quails one dollar and fifty cents per dozen, rabbits thirty-seven cents a pair, fresh palmon eight to twelve cents a pound, smelts ten cents a pound, sea bass five to ten cents, codfish ten to twelve cents, oranges four dollars to four dollars and fifty cents per hundred, lard thirty-three cents a pound. French and English dry goods at auction sold like this: — Brussels carpets one dollar and twenty- five cents • to one dollar and sixty-seven ACROSS THE CONTINENT. cents, velvet carpets one dolhr and sixty cents to two dollars and fifteen cents, broadcloth two dollars and forty-five cents to three dollars, black silks two dollars and fifteen cents to two dollars and eighty- five cents, plain wool delaines twenty-seven to thirty cents number five ribbons one dollar to one dollar and seven cents, satinets fifty to sixty-two cents These latter arc wholesale rates, of courie, and all the figures quoted are for specie. My readers will infer, what I think T have not ex- plicitly stated before, that the currency of these States is gold and silver. Taper money has been kept out by the force of a very obstinate public opinion and the instrumentality of State legislation. Our national currency of greenbacks are seen here simply as merchandise; you buy and sell them at the brokers, for about seventy-five cents in coin to the dollar. Of course being made a " legal tender by United States law, it is competent to pay a debt here with them; but no man who should do this orce, without the sum being made proportionately larger of course, could henceforth have any credit or standing in the mercantile community. AH large and long credits are now coupled with an express stipulation that they are on a specie footing, ar.d a law of the State, known as the "specific contract act " protects such arrangements. But public opin- ion so far, and in all the small daily transactions of trade is the great and controlling law on the subject. These Pacific States' never having had any paper monfey of their own, and producing plenty of the material for coin, with a mint for its manufacture, it J- :1NENT. r and sixty cents to roacldoth two dollars >llars, black silks two dollars and cighty- wcnty-scvcn to thirty (• dollar to one dollar ^ to sixty-two cents. OS, of couric, and all ne. [ think T have not cx- ^c currency of these iper money has been vrcry obstinate public y of State k'};islation. snbacks arc seen here buy and sell them at y-five cents in coin to made a "legal tender" impetcnt to pay a debt m who should do this made proportionately eforth have any credit community. All large oupled with an express a specie footing, and a the "specific contract ents. But public opin- dl daily transactions of lling law on the subject. ;r having had any paper iroducing plenty of the it for its manufacture, it THE "greenback question. 343 was very natural, though unquestionably selfish and luipatriotic, for them to resist the debasement and supersedurc of their currency by the legal tender notes, which the general government resorted to for means to carry on the war. Their motive in excluding them was, of course, to protect their busi- ness operations from the dangerous derangements, often spreading a wide financial ruin, that arc the common accompaniments of a cheap and abundant currency. But since only activity and prosperity are seen to have resulted in the eastern States, — while depression and dullness have been creeping over affairs in these States,— there has been a grad- ual change in public sentiment on the subject. Out of San Francisco, and especially in Oregon and Nevada, there is evidently a preponderating feeling now in favor of introducing the national currency. The principal arguments for it are, that the States here ought to share in all the responsibilities of their sisters in the East ; if the paper money con- fers benefits, they should be enjoyed here; if bur- dens, they too should be assumed by those that arc proud to belong to the national Republic. The friends of the introduction also argue that it would make money more abundant and cheaper, and largely increase the tendency of eastern capitalists to make heavy investments on this Coast, and so give new life and prosperity to all business here. But San Francisco, as the center of all the busi- ness and financial operations of these States, holds all firmly to the present state of things. Her merchants and bankers have prgspered all along; 344 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. many of them are foreigners, and represen*: foreign capital ; and they are not only content to keep the business of the country on a specie basis, but are determined that it shall be so kept. They argue that these States do not need capital so much as labor ; not money so much as emigration ; and that while, as matters have now turned out, it might have been well to have accepted the government paper at the start, and gradually come to its in- fluence upon prices and business, as we did in the East, if would create great confusion and disorder to make the revolution at the present time, when there is a difference of fifty per cent, between the two currencies, and the prices based up,on them; and, consequently, that it is better to continue as they have begun, and await the return of the cur- rency of the East to the coin standard. The question is being vigorously discussed ; it is, indeed, the only live issue in the politics of these States ; but so far San Francisco holds dominance over all the interior, and keeps out the greenbacks. The tendency of opinion and affairs is against her, however ; and the day for a change may not be so far distant as it superficially seems. The bankers evidently intend to control the subject ; and when they find they must yield, they will lead, and be the first to introduce the paper money. As it now stands, however, the question is a difficult and per- plexing one to manage practically. It is even doubtful if the government could spare enough currency from the East to answer for the business of these States, so far away from the financial and ± •INENT. nd represen*: foreign content to keep the specie basis, but are ) kept. They argue [ capital so much as imigration ; and that turned out, it might )ted the government lally come to its in- less, as we did in the )nfUsion and disorder e present time, when )er cent, between the £S based upon them; better to continue as :he return of the cur- standard, rously discussed ; it is, 1 the politics of these :isco holds dominance ps out the greenbacks. I affairs is against her, change may not be so seems. The bankers the subject ; and when ey will lead, and be the r money. As it now ,n is a difficult and per- ractically. It is even it could spare enough inswer for the business from the financial and THE MINT AT SAN FRANCISCO. 345 government centers that they cannot draw supplies in one or two days, as all your eastern commercial points can. Certainly it will require the co-opera- tion of the government at Washington and of the State governments here, with all the facilities of the bankers of this city, to introduce ihe change now without great interruption to the p\ ogress of trade and possible ruin to many delicatt Interests. Utah and Colorado have the paper money of the East in use ; but all the States and Territories this side of them employ only gold and silver, in sym- pathy with the fountain head of San Francisco. Of all the government institutions in San Fran- cisco, the Mint is the most interesting and impor- tant. Ali'eady it is the great manufj^ctory of coin in the Nation, and its comparative importance in this respect is destined to increase. It coins now about twenty millions of gold and silver a year, against five millions coined at all the other govern- ment mints in the country, including the parent mint at Philadelphia. The coinage here for June and July was nearly three millions a month, and the aggregate for this year is likely to go up to twenty- four millions. Mints elsewhere on the Pacific Coast, and in the mining regions, are utterly unnecessary. There is one at Denver in Colorado, but it has nothing to do, — the gold of the Colorado and Mon- tana mines goes right by it, in dust or bars, to New ' York and Philadelphia. Efforts are making to get mints in Nevada and in Oregon, but they would only prove a waste of money. No local clamor of politicians, seeking home popularity or coutractors' IS* 346 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. jobs for friends, should induce Congress to yield to ' such demands. Two mints are only needed for the whole country, at New York or Philadelphia, and at San Francisco. The metals, as soon as mined, drift at once to the commercial and financial centers ; there only can their true value be known,— there only the use to which commerce may choose to put them Sometimes, she demands their exportation in bars, and again in coin. Besides, the business of coining is an intricate and delicate one, requiring large responsibilities, expensive establishments, and men of both science and integrity. It should not be needlessly cheapened and scattered. Govern- ment may well have assay offices in all t^e mining districts, actipg as branches of the mints, to receive the metals, and give coin or exchange for their full value, minus the bare cost of manipulating, m order to accommodate especially the poorer and smaller miners ; but the multiplication of mints, I repeat, is an unnecessary, wasteful, and dangerous operation. The Mint here is now in charge of one of the best merchants of the city, Mr. R. B. Swain, but it has no adequate accommodations. It is crowded into the back and upper rooms of an old and ordi- nary block in the principal business street. But provision has been made by Congress for a distinct and appropriate building. The metals are received at the Mint in all manner of half-worked forms, in dust, nuggets, rough bars, silver and gold mixed together, and more or less dross with all. l^acti parcel is kept distinct, first assayed, to discover its exact value, and then worked over, the dross c^- f pell wat pro tail exp eitl val I froi of wh ste the of wil for As INENT. Congress to yield to only needed for the Philadelphia, and at I soon as mined, drift d financial centers; 3 be known, — there ;e may choose to put ds their exportation sides, the business of licate one, requiring I estabUshments, and ;rity. It should not scattered. Govcvn- :es in all t^ie mining the mints, to receive xchange for their full lanipulating, in order e poorer and smaller 1 of mints, I repeat, is dangerous operation. charge of one of the r. R. B. Swain, but it tions. It is crowded IS of an old and ordi- business street. But Congress for a distinct he metals are received half-worked forms, in ilver and gold mixed dross with all. Each issayed, to discover its :d over, the dross exr i THE world's balancing-house. 347 pelled, and the silver and gold separated. Fire, water and chemicals are the means employed. The processes are simple enough and exquisitely enter- taining, as you follow them with eye and intelligent explanation. The results are returned to the owner either in solid bars, bearing official stamp of their value, or in freshly made coin. Much gold and silver are already exported direct from here to China to settle the balances of trade of both New York and London merchants ; and when the Pacific Railroad is done, and the line of steamships to China is running, San Francisco, as the center of the gold and silver producing region of the world, and the half-way house of commerce, will become the great financial and balancing center for all the trade between Europe and America, and Asia. LETTER XXX. THE MINING QUESTIONS AGAIN: GENERAL REVIEW. San Francisco, September i. I MUST go back to the Mines for a renewed word of caution to the East. You are tempted there vvith all sorts of seductive ventures in the way ot mining in these Pacific States. There are many men, both there and here, busy in workmg up a furore for investments in this business Every steamer carries speculators and adventi.rer. to the East, with mines to sell,-good, bad anu nidiffer- ent,-but mostly uncertain. These have often been, and are likely to be, made the basis of jomt stock companies of mammoth capitals, yet low- priced shares : their prospects set belorc the pubhc in flaming advertisements, studded with stunmng statements as to the assay of the ore and the as- sured prospects of the company. It is sate to ad- vise people ^ -'t no trust in such enterprises. I is sale to t .: . that the money made by them will be made out of the stock-buyers, and not out of the mines, and shared by the officers of the company and their friends. Very likely, the latter are in the first instance swindled in the purchase of the mines, and that they are only repeating, in another form anc pla fen dis eve ycc ] mi gei of by he on of sh( pe po dii inl nij th; in^ en at th to pa sc m wi ol ha T CAUTION TO CAPITALISTS. 349 XX. .GAIN : GENERAl- RANCisco, September i. 5 for a renewed word I are tempted there itures in the way of s. There are many isy in working up a is business Every d adventi^rers to the od, bad and iiidiffer- These have often ide the basis of joint th capitals, yet low- , set before, the pubUc udded with stunning f the ore and the as- ,ny. It is safe to ad- such enterprises. It ey made by them will ers, and not out of the Eicers of the company y, the latter are in the purchase of the mines, iting, in another form and before a larger audience, the game that has been played on them. Most of the mines now being of- fered to the eastern public are so remotely located, distant from markets, from wood and water, that, even if valuable in themselves, they cannot for many years to come be worked to advantage and profit. No investments, I repeat, should be made in mines in this region, except after the most intelli- gent and complete study of the whole subject, and of the merits of the special enterprise offered, either by the capitalist himself, or by some one in whom he can place the most implicit confidence. Not only the mine itself should offer assured evidence of value, and of favorable location, but the capitalist should also be assured of its management here by persons of both intelligence and integrity. This point is as vital as the other, and as difficult, more difficult indeed, to be secured. These qualities of intelligence and integrity are rare here, and com- mand a high price. They can generally do better than to work for other people. Eastern capitalists, investing largely,— and it is certainly best to invest enough to command their personal attention, or not at all,— will always find it wise to send out one of their own number, or a person equally dt pendable, to oversee the expenditures and direct the financial part of their operations, and let him find here that scientific and practical knowledge on the subject of mining, that he cannot of course possess. This he will obtain in mining engineers of repute, and in old practical miners, the latter most often men who have been foremen or overseers in mines or mills. ..1.. 350 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. The discoverers and prospectors of mines are a class by tliemselves, and are rarely the right men to work a mine for ether people. I find my conviction of distrust of indiscriminate investments in mining, and my growing conserva- tism on the whole subject, abundantly confirmed by the experience and testimony of others. There is but one voice among the oldest and best business men of this city,— men who have gone through all the mining excitements of the Coast and shared in them all,— and that is in fullest sympathy with what I have written. Mr. Charles Allen of Boston, the reporter for your Massachusetts Supreme Court, who has followed our party through the Nevada silver and the California gold mining districts, ex- amining them and their operations with even more of strictness and detail, in behalf of eastern clients and capitalists, than we did, I find has written home almost exact transcripts of my conclusions, without any knowledge of what these were. We find them fully confirmed, too, by the printed opin- ions ot Professor Whitney of the California State Geological Survey, on record here. Mr. William Ashburner, who has been the mineralogist of that survey, and is now the confidential mining engineer of some of th- most important enterprises and in- terests on this Coast, — and who is from Stockbridge, (Mass.,) and the son-in-law of Mr. Jonathan E. Field of that town,— acts confidently and cautiously on the same principles, and all his experience justi- fies their soundness. There is no higher or more intelligent authority on these subjects than he. .J NENT. DOUBLE INJURY OF DECEPTION. 351 of mines are a class ; right men to work St of indiscriminate growing conserva- dantly confirmed by )f others. There is t and best business ve gone through all Coast and shared in sympathy with what Mien of Boston, the tts Supreme Court, hrough the Nevada mining districts, ex- ions with even more ilf of eastern clients I find has written ( of my conclusions, lat these were. We by the printed opin- the California State here. Mr. William mineralogist of that itial mining engineer it enterprises and in- 3 is from Stockbridge, of Mr. Jonathan E. dently and cautiously 1 his experience justi- is no higher or more subjects than he. None of those who hold these views belittle the mineral wealth of these States. Those who know most about it have, indeed, the largest ideas of its extent and its value. But even thus utterly unable to measure these riches and the amounts to be drawn from them for the use of the world, they have learned how fickle are their individual deposits, how incomplete and uneconomical are present modes of extracting and working them, how remote from supplies arc their best fields, and how difficult, al-. most impossible, has been and still is the reduction of the business of mining to order and legitimacy. Those, too, who have the true interests of these States at heart, who foresee their future, and would have their progress steady and sure, cannot but look upon the invitation of eastern capital hither under false expectations and by deceptive enter- prises, with equal sorrow and indignation. The fraud and the injury are as great to the West as the East. Every dollar swindled out of the Atlantic States by speculating adventure on the Pacific loses at least two dollars on the great balance-sheet to this section. It will keep that much, at least, back from legitimate enterprise and investment here. There is field enough on this Coast and the way hither for all the capital and all the labor the East can spare, — legitimate, honorable, profitable field ; and so every dollar, every hand turned from this to unremunerative, baseless enterprise, is indeed a double fraud. Sound theories and healthy habits as to mining are fast becoming dominant here ; few enterprises, controlled by old miners and long resi- 352 ACROSS tHE CONTINENT. dents, are not now meeting with some deyree of success, or carried on with a fair integrity. Only eastern creduUty and passion, fed of course by reck- less cupidity here, can repeat on a large scale the lamentable experience through which this wisdom has been gained. I warn all whom my words may reach against feeding or yielding to the passion ; for they peril in it both their consciences and their cash, and bring injury to the best interests of Cali- fornia and her sister States. The results of the geological survey of Califor- nia, under Professor Whitney, just now beginning to come before the public, will aid materially in the dissemination of reliable knowledge on all subjects connected with the State's wealth and the opportu- nities for its development. That survey is one of the most comprehensive and thorough scientific la- bors of the description ever attempted in this coun- try • so far as known, its results have challenged the admiration of scientific men everywhere ; both its intelligence and its integrity are unimpeachable ; and the State of California owes it to her best m- terests and to her reputation the world over to carry the work through on the high scale with which it has been commenced, disregarding the suggestions of prejudiced ignorance, the clamor of baffled speculation, and the appeal of a narrow economy. No money can be so well expended by California as in telling the world exactly what she is, in whole and in detail ; and this is the work that Professor Whitney has carried forward lo its near, triumphant completion. L takii equ£ peri ore ton, of ( not ture com SUC( 1 Cal; Ciil of 1 roai in r whi tine poo spo son imj ist ces mil rat fut the wo ly J„ NENT. th some dei^ree of .ir integrity. Only 1 of course by reck- n a large scale the which this wisdom lom my words may ,ng to the passion; msciences and their :st interests of Cali- il survey of Califor- just now beginning aid materially in the ledge on all subjects 1th and the opportu- hat survey is one of lorough scientific la- cmpted in this coun- alts have challenged :n everywhere; both y are unimpeachable ; ires it to her best in- 1 the world over to the high scale with ed, disregarding the orance, the clamor of appeal of a narrow ; so well expended by )rld exactly what she i this is the work that d forward lo its near, ■I NEW MINING DISTRICT IN CALIFORNIA. 353 Looking back oyer our mining experiences, and taking the average testimony of each district as equally reliable, I find myself impressed with the su- perior richness of the Colorado gold mines. Their ore averaged as uniformly one hundred dollars a ton, as that of Nevada, either Austin or Virginia, or of California does fifty dollars. The extraction is not as complete because of the more intricate na- ture of the precious deposits ; but means to over- come this, though perhaps at enlarged cost, seemed successfully initiated while we were there. There has been opened a new mining district in California the present season, in the extreme west- cm part of Nevada County, among the higher hills of the Sierras, and near the line of the Pacific rail- road, whose ores resemble those of Colorado, both in richness and in peculiarity of combinations, and which, already attracting great attention, seems des- tined to become both popular and profitable. The poorer portions of the ore of one mine are sold on the spot at forty dollars a ton ; and the rest are taken some distance to be worked. But the first and most important step in the successful treatment of all of it is believed to be roasting, which is not a common pro- cess in California. A single chunk of ore from this mine was so fat with wealth that it yielded at the rate of over thirty-nine hundred dollars to the ton ! There is even increased doubt and anxiety as to the future of the Comstock Ledge in Nevada, which is the great mineral deposit of the Continent, if not the world. The mines are turning out bullion more rich- ly than in early summer ; but they are spending large 23 354 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. sums for explorations for new deposits, with results that arc, on the whole, disheartening. Dividends are dccreasins and stopping; assessments coming ; and the stocks arc ahoul half the rates in the spring. The "-old and copper mines down in Arizona, along the Colorado Kivcr, as it runs between thi... Territory and California, are also coming mo^e into favor and development. That river offers conven- ient and cheap access to them ; and the chief ob- stacles, as yet, are the lack of steam communication, the barrenness of the neighboring country, and the hostility of the Indians. Mr. Charles L. Strong, the famous superintendent of the famous Gould & Curry mine in Virginia, until within two years, has just returned from an exploring expedition in that direction, and reports most valuable discoveries of mines, which he has taken up in behalf of some heavy New York capitalists, whom he represents. From Idaho we hear already ol deserted villages and impoverished gold-diggings ; successful mining there is fast falling back on the quartz leads ; and as a consequence the occupation of the "wandering Jews,"' the pioneers in gold-hunting, is gone. The experience of the East with oil wells is a fit parallel to the mining experience of the Pacific States. The excitement, the speculation, the lucky hits of the few, the losses and disappointments of the many, the sud- den creation of a town with all the elements of civili- zation, and its almost as sudden desertion for new and more favored localities,— in all these features and in many incidental ones, the history of one experience is counterpart and repetition of that of the other. C( profi mosi and howi lie ii fron- calk dev( no 1 Eas fron a m cess trod cess plet 1 silv the of i the and and upc qui ties cle; ore the onl Ne INENT. eposits, with results ing. Dividends are iments coming ; and itcs in the spring. 1 down in Arizona, t runs between tha.- io coming mc-e into river offers conven- ; and the chief ol)- cam communication, ing country, and the Charles L. Strong, the famous Gould & vithin two years, has \g expedition in that luable discoveries of p in behalf of some tiom he represents. ^ ol deserted villages ;s ; successful mining he quartz leads ; and on of the "wandering mting, is gone. The 1 wells is a fit parallel 2 Pacific States. The z lucky hits of the few, 3 of the many, the sud- the elements of civili- 1 desertion for new and 1 these features and in :ory of one experience of that of the other. COPPER AND QUICKSILVER. 3S5 Copper and quicksilver are to be added to the profitable mineral productions of California. The most brilliant success has attended the discovery and working of both these valuable metals, each, however, in a single locality. The copper mines lie in the foot-hills of the Sierras, a day's ride west from Stockton, and the town they have built up is called appropriately Copperopolis. They are being developed very extensively and with much profit; no less than three thousand tons of the ore goes East and to England every month ; and an increase from these and other mines to twenty thousand tons a month is predicted by another year. The suc- cessful smelting of the ore for the metal is not in- troduced here yet, except on a small scale. The pro- cesses abroad are so much cheaper and more com- plete that it pays better to ship the rough ore direct. The great mines of Cinnabar, from which quick- silver is extracted, are those of New Almaden, on the inside of the Coast hills, about sixty miles south of San Francisco; and they hnvc become one of the most curious and interesting objects for visit and inspection in all California. Their discovery and successful working have had a marked influence upon the mining interests of the country, since quicksilver is universally used, and in large quanti- ties, to separate the gold and silver from the parti- cles of dross with which they are bound up in the ore, and the production of the article throughout the world is quite limited. Spain, Peru and Austria only have mines of it besides California ; and the New Almaden now controls the prices for the world. 356 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. f Its present production is four thousand l> five thou- sand flasl<s a month, worth forty dollars .a flask, and the net profits of the operation are aliout one hun- dred thousand dollars a month. The history of this property, its discovery and ownership, has been fiill of romance ; there was great dispute over it, a long contest in law, vast sums paid in litij;ation, and finally a purchase of rival claims. It is now owned by a New York company, with a capital of ten millions, and is a magnificent property. The cin- nabar is a red, brick-looking earth or ore, wivch is dug from its veins like any other ore, fashioMod into small squares or bricks, built up into a kiln, and then fire set under and among it ; ar.d the precious quicksilver exudes in a liquid stream or vat'O, und is caught and bottled for market. Other cinnabar veins of promise, as other copper mines, arc in existence, and to a greater or less (ex- tent improved, but these are the distinctive and controlling interests in both metals. In crossing the Rocky Mountains from Denver to Salt Lake City, I remember seeing evidences of generous cin- nabar deposits at various points along the North Platte ; and the United States are probably destined to be the great producers of quicksilver. California is not without its petroleum, also: there has been fierce dispute as to its existence ; much of furore in the search for it ; and much wild speculation, into which the East has been drawn most unprofitably, upon the basis of its discovery in large quantities. That it exists, in greater or less degree, in some form or another, in one or two of riNENT. housiind 1 1 five thou- ty dolb's ■■. Husk, and 1 are al)out one hun- Thc liistory of this ncrship, has been full ;lisinite over it, a long lid in litij;ation, and ms. It is now owned vith a cai)ital of ten : property. The cin- earth or ore, which is icr ore, fashioned into t up into a kiln, and r it ; ar.d the precious stream or vaT>o. , and ket. omise, as other copper o u greater or less ex- e the distinctive and metals. In crossing Denver to Salt Lake 2nces of generous cin- )ints along the North 3 are probably destined quicksilver, : its petroleum, also: te as to its existence ; for it ; and much wild East has been drawn basis of its discovery exists, in greater or less Dther, in one or two of .*'*> '^^y^ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) /. :/j 1.0 I.I I^|2j8 |25 !^ m . 140 111112.0 2.2 6" L25 lliu IIIIII.6 "^W^ '/ ■ST Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. MSftO (716) 872-4503 ». ^ '^J^ •^ MMT' »M» vrac-wnnFT^n^ ««i,iq»'»- ' CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CIHM/ICMH Collection de microfiches. Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions / Institut Canadian de microreproductions historiques THE PETROLEUM FEVER — OIL VS. WINE. 35/ the distant Coast counties, may no longer be dis- puted ; but it yet remains to be proven whether it exists under successful commercial circumstances, that is, whether it will pay. I believe there is no well-authenticated case of a flowing well yet ; I am sure much more money has been put into the wells than has been taken from them ; and I am positive that the only money yet made from petroleu-i on the Pacific Coast has been made by the land-own- ers and the speculators. The oil fever has clearly a better basis and a more healthy promise in the East than at the West ; and yet, under the influence of rhetorical representations by speculators and their agents, two companies of eastern capitalists have put up large sums of money, and bought a quarter of a million of acres of supposed oil lands in the southern counties of California. Their search for the oil has not had brilliant success yet ; and one of the companies has adopted the very sensible plan of turning their land to good account by planting it with grape vines and going into the manufacture of wine. This is not the entertain- ment to which they invited themselves, but it cer- tainly promises better resiUts. They propose to set out ten millions of vines within two years ; and the other company in the same position will probably follow suit with both vines and olives. This is an odd turn for a petroleum speculation to take, but it is fortunate for the true interests of California, and if well followed up will prove remunerative to the victims of the oil fever, — and Professor Silliman's rhetorical report. 1 LETTER XXXI. THE FAREWELL FESTIVITIES : POLITICS AND FOL- ITICIANS. San Francisco, September 2. There is something of pathos in the very word parting. Few can confront the fact, can break any experience, from which life has been taken, or to which Ufe has been given, without a flutter in the heart. But this is my last letter from the Pacific Coast. This morning ends the record of the " Col- fax party" on this shore : we are closing that wealth of experience which it is difficult to believe has been made ours in only four months' time : host and hostess gather to whelm us with final generosity ; to give coup de grace to a summer of such hospi- tality, both of sense and c. ' '% as was never ours before. Do vou wonder we are all a trifle senti- mental ; and that I would coin my daintiest phrase for the final adieux? Yet the themes left on my note-book are prosaic and practical ; and poetry fit to the occasion is felt better than written. Besides, these emotions, voiced to Atlantic shore, would reach unsympathizing ears. So you shall not know these words that are utter, d, these scenes that are transpiring, in hotel parlor and steamer saloon, this mor belo "du C wit! a pi coul on 1 and Fai try thei and the cid( whi inv nov Go Scl the gra of pre las chi me by 1 XXI. POLITICS AND rOL- RANCisco, September 2. nos in the very word e fact, can break any IS been taken, or to hout a flutter in the tter from the Pacific e record of the " Col- re closing that wealth ficult to believe has onths' time : host and with final generosity ; mmer of such hospi- 't, as was never ours are all a trifle senti- n my daintiest phrase le themes left on my ictical ; and poetry fit lan written. Besides, ^.tlantic shore, would So you shall not know these scenes that are id steamer saloon, this THE LAST WEEK IN SAN FRANCISCO. 359 morning, as guest and host are parting. They belong to those things that should always be taken "during the effervescence." Our final visit in San Francisco has been crowded with most agreeable attentions, both of a public and a private character. Not half that were proffered could be enjoyed. Excursions to the country, and on the bay ; visits to public institutions of the city and neighborhood; the seeing of the Mechanics' Fair, a fine exposition of the manufacturing indus- try and art ambition of California; addresses here, there, everywhere ; private breakfasts an*.' dinners ; and a grand final and farewell ball and banquet by the bankers and merchants of the city, at the Oc- cidental Hotel, — this has been the entertainment to which Mr. Colfax and his companions have been invited during the last week. But all are over now, — the Speaker has made his farewell speech; Governor Bross has addressed the last Sunday School ; the brass band is hushed, — "And silence, like a poultice, comes, To heal the blows of sound ; — " the final phot6graph is taken, — and rare photo- graphs, indeed, both of faces and scenery, do skill of the artist and clearness of the air combine to produce on this Coast : the tongue has wagged its last good-bye; and the hour of waving handker- chiefs is passing! Conspicuous among the more private entertain- ments of the week was a dinner party to Mr. Colfax by the leading banker of the city, and to which 36o ACROSS THE CONTINENT. were gathered from twenty to thirty of the most noted and notable bankers and business men of the Coast, heads and managers of the great enterprises of the Pacific. It was a rare collection of strong men, real kings in this Israel, and no city of the Atlantic could marshal a superior. The dinner it- self was a triumph, was high art itself, in its way. It was said to have never had its equal before in San Francisco; and I certainly never sat through its superior, for richness and rarity, both in its ele- ments and their serving, anywhere. The farewell ball and banquet was a brilliant fete of a more public character. Tv^o or three hundred ladies and gentlemen joined in the festival; the hotel was surrendered to its accommodation ; the tickets were no less than twe..ty-five dollars in gold ; and in aggregate and in detail, in preparation and achievement, it was as elegant and- as flattering an entertainment and social compliment as ever city tendered or citizen received. There is more catho- licity of feeling as to such amusements among church people here than in the East; dancing is not a sin, even, among the San Francisco orthodox; and the guests were greeted at this ball by the leaders in every good word and work in the town, who, men and women, made them5;elves gay with its pleasures, and contributed to its brilliancy with their beauty and grace. I had a home pride m recognizing, in the most womanly of the women and the most beautiful of the belles, a daughter and grand-daughter, respectively, of our good old, half- century pastor of Springfield First church, the late t INENT. » thirty of the most business men of the the great enterprises collection of strong , and no city of the rior. The dinner it- art itself, in its way. ,d its equal before in ly never sat through arity, both in its ele- here. et was a brilliant fete rv^ro or three hundred in the festival; the accommodation; the ty-five dollars in gold ; il, in preparation and it and* as flattering an ipliment as ever city There is more catho- amusements among the East ; dancing is 1 Francisco orthodox; d at this ball by the ,nd work in the town, them5;elves gay with I to its brilliancy with had a home pride in imanly of the women belles, a daughter and of our good old, half- i First church, the late THE RESCUE FROM DISUNION. 361 venerable and venerated Dr. Osgood. I note, also, as excellent example for eastern evening routs, among which I never saw it, the serving of hot beef-tea, with just a smack of claret in it, as a con- stant refreshment during the evening. It is a most grateful and delicate substitute for the accustomed spirit end tea and coffee, that leave such wreck of nerves the next day ; and it did not on this occasion interfere with the grand banquet of the night, that was the crowning feast of the week. The politics of these Taclfic States are now in hearty sympathy with these which are dominant in the East. Their rescue from the d^nger of co- operation with the southern rebellion, ir the temp- tation to take advantage of the opportu lity and set up a kingdom by themselves, seems to ha v'e been al- most miraculous, certainly was very iia. row. There were strong elements and many circumstances that were leading, or likely to lead, these States in one direction or the other. Had they been enjoying then a vigorous and sure prosperity, the temptation and clamor for independence would, indeed, have been dangerous. But there was here, as in the East, a sudden and contagious uprising of the peo- ple for the government and the Union, that swept all discussion before it, and saved these States from anarchy, and the Republic a unit. So marked was the revolution that it seemed almost the work of one man. Rev. T. Starr King, whose voice was first and warmest and truest. Rut he was rather the leader than the creator of the public feeling; it would have found other prophets, had he been want-, 16 363 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. iirr and groped and stumbled somehow to tho same conclusions. Yet his clear, magnetic voice ana kindling spirit gave expression and conviction to the slumbering, half-aroused feeling; and to his memory be great glory indeed. California, Nevada and Oregon are now appar- ently as fixed and decided in the possession of the republican or Union party, as the average of the States of the East. The type of their public men is also much improved by the change from the old democratic and pro-sbvcry rule. The lack of per- sonal and political integrity, and of consequent in- fluence, on the part of their representatives in Cc.igress, has confessedly been a chief reason for the want of consideration which these States and their interests have suffered from at the han.l., of the rovernment. They have never seemed to have the c'omprehension to see and say what was wanted by their constituents, or the influence to secure it. The new men are not generally conspicuous for in- tellectual ability ; men of that stamp here have too -ften prostituted their character for gain or pleasure, or are too much absorbed in the great business en- terprises of the country to give themselves up to public affairs; but the present representatives at Washington and governors of the States are almost uniSrm'v gentlemen of high personal mtegnty, great f .od sense, and large practical qualities for these trusts. Gove .ors Blasdell of Nevada Low of il is State, and Cibbs of Oregon are all of this stamp. They inspire faith and coftfidence, and give •firm hope for States led by them. F amc Stc ord( Stat tie and con inh( his vict po'v sonj ciati •Uni in h will spic brot Coll sym its i agai aire; feat. who by t B cept polit cy, i for ; mchow to the same agnctic voice aucl and conviction to cling; and to his on arc now appar- e possession of the the average of the of their public men :hange from the old ;. The lack of per- d of consequent in- reprcsentatives in 1 a Qhief reason for ch these States and •cm at the han.ib of lever seemed to have say what was wanted ifiuence to secure it. y conspicuous for in- stamp here have too r for gain or pleasure, tie great business en- vc themselves up to nt representatives at the States are almost 1 personal integrity, practical qualities for sdell of Nevada, Low Dregon are all of this d coftfidence, and give lem. THE I'ACIFIC SENATORS — STAk^ KING, 363 Perhaps the most influential, intellectual mind among the Pacific congressmen is that" of Senator Stewart of Nevada. He shows qualities of the first order, comprehending tli< affaiis of his section, anu stating them with vigorous effect. Mr. Conness, ti California senator, is a disciple of Proderick, and possesses great perseverance and force, and a conceded integrity in public affairs, but does not inherit the breadth and commanding qualities of his predecessor and patron. He is too much the victim of his hatreds and his self-conceit for largest power ; he is rather the leader of a faction than the senator of a State, liis unworthy democratic asso- ciate, McDougal, is speedily to be succeeded by a •Union man, the canvass for whose selection is now in hot progress. It is impossible yet to say who will be chosen. In intellectual gifts, the most con- spicuous candidate has been Mr. John B, Felton, brother of the late President F'elton of Harvard College, and a leading lawyer here ; but his lack of sympathy with the Union, when it was in peril and its fate doubtful, and his share in private schemes against the public welfare and the public purse, have already stamped his impudent pretensions with de- feat. There are half a dozen other candidates, from whom a creditable choice can hardly fail to be made by the next winter's Legislature. But there is a manifest lack of men of quick per- ceptions and strong grasp and influence among the politicians of these States. This senatorial vacan- cy, seeking fitting occupant, would be the occasion for Starr King, were he living; his transference M 3^4 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. from the pulpit to public life would have been a fitting thing, and greatly to the credit of Cahiurnia. It is interesting to note the sacred fame this nun has left here ; there is none more sacred m all Cali- fornia history; he is the saint of the Pacific shore. Those who knew him at the East cannot under- stand it; nor what he was here. He had, m this position and under the occasion of the war and the doubtful course of California, a new I^^P^^^"^' ^ ;^- crcation as man and orator ; and his personal nflu- cnce and political power,-the revolution and devel- opment o'f public opinion that he led.-are among the curious and impressive circumstances in per ^°^lS:r;endsthreenewmenof^-o^tothe House this year. Mr. McRuer from the San l^r^n Cisco district, is an intelligent merchant of Maine and Scotch origin, and is sure to command influ- ence in WashingJon. General Bidwell from the north, is a farmer of broad acres and capacity, and Mr Higby is a lawyer from the interior. Nevada also has a new senator to choose the next yet' in place of General Nye. who will proba- b y not b; returned again. The politics of Oregon J. in daneer of a counter revolution, through a arg em gfatl^ this season from Missouri Iowa anf Illinol the majority of whom wi be o^ em- nrratic southern sympathizing. This emigrauon num Wrom seven to ten thousand, men. women ^nd ch Idren. and will prove a valuable con tr.but.n to the State's population and fundamental sou es of wealth, though it imperil the tone of her politics. Mr pir pai Ik ele icy qu; US( len inj wo bci er W wi ch. re] St ne fee a tO' Tl ac du is CO an lai ist W( [ENT. rould have been a rcclit of California, red fame this man ; sacred in all Cali- r the Tucific shore. Last cannot under- ;. He had, in this of the war, and the new baptism, a rc- l his personal influ- livolution and devel- hc led,— are among rcumstances in per- len of -'orth to the from the San Fran- merchant of Maine ; to command influ- al Bidwell from the es and capacity, and 3 interior. nator to choose the Nye, who will proba- he politics of Oregon •evolution, through a from Missouri, Iowa ihom will be of dem- ag. This emigration nousand, men, women valuable contribution I fundamental sources lie tone of her politics. LOYALTY A PASSION. 365 Mr. Ncsmith, the senator, whose time is about ex- piring, will hardly be the choice again of cither party, for he holds close communion with neither. He is accredited with advocating McClellan before election, and supporting Mr. Lincoln and his pol- icy afterwards. Not a great man, he has sterling qualities of sense and honesty, and has proven a useful legislator. To him is attributed that excel- lent saying that, on coming to Washington and see- ing the august Capitol and the dignified Senate, he wondered how he came to be sent there ; but after being there a few weeks, his wonder was still great- er how the rest of them got there ! Farther north, Washington Territory has testified her sympathy with the new thought and life of the nation, by the choice of a sterling Union man and pronounced republican to Congress. The loyalty and the patriotism of these Pacific States are surely not less vigorous than those nearer the center of national life. With many the feeling here seems more a passion, a fashion, than a principle, and it is often intolerant and rough towards those who are • suspected of opposition. There has, indeed, been less freedom of speech and action in national politics in Nevada and California, during the last year, than in New England. This is explainable, however, by the intenser life of the country, the more passionate habit of the people, and the fact that the supporters of General McClel- lan here were almost invariably genuine secession- ists in heart and often in manifestation. The lines were drawn here more narrowly and distinctly than 366 ACROSS THE C0>NT1NENT. in the East, whore many truly loyal and pat no .c men were found voting with the democrats. But if intolerance and injustice arc ever excusable when more so than for a Union endangered, and barely rescued, as it seemed here, from the unholy power of its enemies? I must linger on the shore for an almost forgotten paragraph about the Indians of the Pacific States. Th;y dkl not vex our travel this side the Rocky Mountains, as their brethren did on the other; bv.t we saw them constantly in our journeys through the interior. In Utah and Nevada, a poor, dirty, squalid race; apparently inoffensive and inccjmpe- tent; beggars and poor servants. " Ca^itoa and Oregon and Washington, subdued and a shade civilized, industrious in small degree, farming a lit- tle fishing a good deal,-hewers of wood and draw- ers of wa'er.-but fading out fast. Along the Co- lumbia, they were squatted in "T ^'-^", ^'^ ^ but bank laying in their annual supplies of salmon, but Sg for ?he most part back in the mountains. There is a little war with the Indians in northern Nevada, and the Apaches down in Arizona a stal- wart and fighting race, are making serious trouble so that troops have been sent to subdue them bu for the rest of the Pacific Coast, the ---"t^ "/ the Indian tribes are apparently peaceable and dis- posed to continue so. The testimony is universa in these States that the whites have originated most of the troubles with the Indians. The great Ore- gon Indian war of some years ago «'as clearly pro- voked by whites, as a means of speculating in sup- pile lust inti ma; goc mo rev on arii cas the wh apt on tra bu the zat bC; pa ou du ad ENT. 1 THE INDIANS, AND THE "SLANG. 367 lyal and i)atnotic : democrats. lUit ;r excusable, when leered, and barely the unholy power m almost forpotten the Pacific States, is side the Rocky on the other ; but • journeys through vada, a poor, dirty, sive and incompc- its. In California ibelued, and a shade igrec, farming a lit- of wood and draw- ist. Along the Co- umbers by the river plies of salmon, but in the mountains. Indians in northern n in Arizona, a stal- ling serious trouble, :o subdue them ; but ast, the remnants of ly peaceable and dis- istimony is universal have originated most ins. The great Ore- ago was clearly pro- )f speculating in sup- plies for carrying on the war against them. The lust of coarse white men for their women; the introduction of whiskey among them; abuse an' maltreatment in various ways arc the origin of a good many Indian outrages, and these lead into al- most necessary wars of extermination. The Indian revenges indiscriminately ; when he turns, he falls on innocent as likely as on guilty; and so wars arise, and go on. Often, doubtless, too, is this the case, l-iast and West : mean and sordid whites stir the Indian's blood, teach him the ways of mischief, wherein ignorance and barbarity have made him an apt scholar, and robbery, murder and war ensue in order. The path of government duty ifi difficult to trace through such crossing links of criminality; but tlie ends of keeping the lines of travel open, the telegraph unbroken, emigration safe, and civili- zation progressing, are certain. These things must be, even if they oblige the government to antici- pate the natural extermination of time. But this ought not to be necessary, and need not, if our In- dia^n department were both vigorously and wisely administered. The slang phrases and idioms, original and in use among the people of these States, are very odd, and some of them quite expressive. Few or none of those I noticed in Colorado are known here. Each section has a set of its own. "You bet" is one of the most common here ; it is a strong affirmation or approval, as the " That's so " of the East. " Get " or "You get" is go, go along, clear out; drivers shout this to their horses. "Get up and Git," and 368 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. "Get up and Dust," arc enlarged, emphasised forms of the same. "You can't prove it by me" is also very common for doubt or disapproval or ignorance ; and "None of it in mine" is declination of proffer, and the like, and was probably borrowed from the declination to take "bitters" or any extra fillip in one's drink. "Bilk" stands for a humbug, an im- poster, a "poor coot." "On iv." is a much-used, condensed, epigrammatic phrase, with varying ap- plications. It signifies, in that line, after something especial, determined, in earnest, and the like. As applied to a woman, it generally means that she is in a wicked way. " Weaken " and " To weaken " are very expressive, meaning failing strength, courage or purpose. A man "weakens" is that he is backing down or backing ^nt The mines furnish many new phrases : " Pan out" for turning out or amount- ing to ; as, a man will "pan out" good or bad, or an enterprise "pans out" much or little. "Peter out" is coming to nothing, failing, giving out altogether. "Show" and "color" come from the evidences of gold found in washing sand, and are applied to per- sons and things and undertakings. "Corral," from the Spanish word for cattle-guard or high fence, is applied to catching, cornering, getting into control. Thus I heard a man in Nevada say the Montgomery street brokers had " corralled" all the stock of a cer- tain mine, and could, therefore, put it up or down as they pleased. But I am lingering beyond my dat-e on these themes. The last gun of the steamer is fired ; the farewell banners of good-will and affection are fad- 1 t... mi ap Pa for St; ior lin Er of du thi no lENT. emphasi..ct'_forms it by me" is also oval or ignorance ; lination of proffer, )orrowed from the any extra fillip in a humbug, an im- " is a much-used, I, with varying ap- ne, after something and the like. As means that she is d" To weaken "are strength, courage or that he is backing ines furnish many ling out or amount- ' good or bad, or an little. "Peter out" iring out altogether, n the evidences of i are applied to per- gs. " Corral," from ,rd or high fence, is getting into control, lay the Montgomery 11 the stock of a cer- Dut it up or down as my dat-e on these teamei is fired ; the tid affection are fad- 1 home: CALIFORNIA'S FUTURE. 369 ing from view ; the Golden Gate grows wide at our approach ; the Golden City sails out into the broad Pacific sea ; and we turn our eyes and our thoughts forward for Home. But California and her sister States enlarge upon the inward, the backward vis- ion. It runs quickly and surely to a world-encirc- ling commerce, a world-embracing civilization, an Empire that shall be the glory and the culmination of the American Republic. The share and the duty of the present generation, East and West, in this progress, is the Pacific Railroad. Let them not linger over that ! ' 16* OA 1 LETTER XXXII. . THE VOYAGE HOME BY STEAMSHIP AND THE ISTHMUS. New York, September 23, 1865. No one's knowledge of California life is complete, who does not go or come by the steamship and Panama route. It offers as strange and interesting and instructive experience as any other feature of our summer journeyings over the Contment It is the main, almost sole route for business and pleas- ure travel between the Pacific and Atlantic Coasts. Two or three thousand persons pass each way by it every month. Where one goes overland, hundreds take this route. There is no ocean steamship route in the world, over which so many people have passed and are passing; none on which the service is so well performed as it has been on a part of this, and promises to be henceforth on the whole; none that introduces the traveler to such novelties of climate and scenery and peoples,-none which aflfords so va- ried and unique experiences with nature and human nature It is as odd and anomalous as nearly every- thing else is that belongs to California and the Pa- cific Coast. The stamp of originality imprints itself on all the features of that country and its civilization. ( dai lat thr mi sie ag( im Co ka: coi m( stc ier dr. hu dri de ve tei CO mi ro se he se de in ur m ar ke YOUR COMPANIONS ON THE VOYAGE. 37 1 ill. MSIIIP AND THE , September 23, 1865. lia life is complete, he steamship and ige and interesting ly other feature of e Continent. It is jusiness and pleas- id Atlantic Coasts, pass each way by it overland, hundreds ?an steamship route people have passed ;h the service is so 1 a part of this, and e whole ; none that novelties of climate which aflFords so va- h nature and human lous as nearly every- difornia and the Pa- nality imprints itself y and its civilization. Going to Europe by steamship is ten or twelve days on a rough sea, out sight of land, in the same latitude and climate, in company with two hundred to three hundred people at the outside, who are pretty much like yourself, or at least with whose idiosyncra- sies you are more or less familiar. To many this voy- age is only a dreary confinement to rolling berth ; an imprisonment, without the security of penitentiary. Coming from California by steamer is to this as a kaleidoscope to common spectacles. You have for companions one thousand, more or less, — and oftener more than less, — of the all-est sorts of people. The steamship is larger, more commodious and conven- ient than any other elsewhere. There are two hun- dred or more first class passengers, perhaps three hundred second class, and four hundred to five hun- dred steerage. The latter are quartered forward, deck and hold, and are limited to that portion of the vessel. The first and second classes occupy the cen- ter and stern of the ship, and have many rights in common. Both eat in the same saloon, but their meals are served at different hours. The state- rooms of the first class are on deck ; the berths of the second class are below : perhaps the chief distinction, however, is that the first class dine at four, and the second at one. They mingle very much together on deck, and morals and manners are generally as good in one set as the other. The food is good, even lux- urious, and nearly equal to first class hotel fare : beef, mutton, pork and poultry are carried on board alive, and the butcher has his daily slaughtering to do, to keep this army of hungry boarders in meats. 372 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. The crowd is the only source of standing disrom' fort We are as thick as flies in August ; four and five in a state-room ; we must needs divide into eat- ing battalions, and go twice for our meals: would we have chairs to sit in shade around the decks, we must buy and bring them: there is no privacy; gamblers jostle preachers; commercial women di- vide state-rooms with fine ladies; honest miners in red flannel sit next my New York exquisite in French broadcloth :— and as for the babies, they fairly swarm,— the ship is one grand nursery; and like the British drum-beat, the discordant music of their discomfort follows sun, moon and stars through every one of every twenty-four hours. There were at least one hundred of them on our ship ; and new and kinder notions of old King Herod prevailed among suffering passengers. The new historian Froude makes saint and anchorite of wife-changing, woman-killing Henry the Eighth: why should not some ambitious rival, gaining new light from the California voyage, make public benefactor of baby- slaughtering Herod ? We go out the Golden Gate into the Pacific ocean, and turn down along the shore. It is three thou> sand miles, or fourteen days, from San Francisco to Panama ; from latitude thirty-eight degrees to seven degrees, from temperate to tropic. There is rarely any rough sea in this part of the trip; for most of the way, the steamer keeps in sight of the land ; some captains on the route make straight lines and go across the mouths of gulfs and bays and other indentations of water into land,— and so sometimes mc Ca co; sei kc for of CO m( sal oft sn ho up bo sic foi fee CO in ba to ric fla so Sti flc br loi at vi; iNT. DOWN THE PACIFIC COAST. 373 Standing disc om' August ; four and \s divide into cat- )ur meals: would md the decks, we e is no privacy; ercial women di- honest miners in ''ork exquisite in the babies, they xnd nursery; and scordant music of and stars through lurs. There were )ur ship ; and new Herod prevailed 'he new historian ; of wife-changing, 1 : why should not ew light from the enefactor of baby- 3 the Pacific ocean, It is three thou- 1 San Francisco to tit degrees to seven :. There is rarely e trip ; for most of sight of the land ; ; straight lines and ,nd bays and other —and so sometimes meet severer sea and storm ; but our accomplished Captain Bradbury of Golden City finds economy of coal, equal progress, and greater pleasure to pas- sengers in following the Coast around, — and so we kept company with rock and mountain and verdure for at least eleven of our fourteen days. For much of the way, we were- within rifle shot of land ; we could see the different kinds of trees, houses and men, and study geography to perfection ; it was like sailing down a broad river or through a pond, for often, by days together, the water was as mirror for smoothness ; and only once or twice, and for a few hours then, were sensitive stomachs upbraided and upheaved for Neptune's sake. Indeed, it is steam- boating, rather than steam.shipping, on the Pacific side ; and the boats can be and are larger, — up to four thousand tons in capacity and four hundred feet in length, — than on the Atlantic, with wide and convenient guards along the deck, that are forbidden in rougher seas. The Coast hills along California make rough and barren work of the shore view ; but as we get down to Mexico, the hills open and become clothed with rich green. The weather, never cold, grows hot ; flannels come off"; the fortunate in white linen blos- som out in spotless garb; the close and crowded state-rooms turn out their sleepers on to the cabin floors, the decks, everywhere and anywhere that a breath of air can be wooed; babies lie around loosely and au nature/; you have to pick your way at night about tb o open parts of the ship, as tender visitor to battle-field at Gettysburg. The languor P r 374 ACROSS THK CONTINENT. of the tropics comes over yoi' all; perspirOvion stands in great drops, or flows in rivulets from the body ; a creamy, hazy feeling possesses the senses ; vvorV mg is abandoned ; reading becomes an effort ; card-playing ceases to lure ; dreaming, dozing and scandal-talking grow to be the occupations of the ship's company,— possibly scandal-making, for the courtesans become bold and flaunt, and the weak and impudent show that they are so. Half way down, at the end of first week, we stop at Acapulco, the chief Mexican port on the Pacific Coast, founded by Spain, and famous in the days of her prosperous American commerce. It lies beautifully, under the hills, back of an island, which forms exquisite and safe bay. Here we. taste of tropical life on shore ; here we sample the Mexicans and Mexican Republic. It is a pitiful civilization that they present, and not very inspiring of sympa- thy or hope. The Mexican population is several thousands, and there are only two or three families of whites. The Mexicans are a mulattoish race, an apparent cross between Indians and negroes, with here and there a vein of Spanish blood. Indolence and incompetency mark their life and character. The principal local industry appears to be the sup- plying of the passengers on the steamships, that stop here, going either way. for coal and provisions, with fruits and fancy shell-work. The houses arc low, adobe, and with thick walls, and whitewashad on the outside ; the streets no wider than a gener- ous city sidewalk ; the plaza or church square opens broad but barren,— and here is the market-place, wh( sim of' dre goc Ai anc ser all: roll the tra eve an( cei tht At bu inf in{ th( th( fei on mi in ha he fo! hi th .J NT. all; perspirOvion rivulets from the tisses the senses ; 2comcs an effort ; ming, dozing and ccupations of the 1-making, for the nt, and the weak so. rst week, we stop ort on the Pacific nous in the days immerce. It lies f an island, which [iere we. taste of nple the Mexicans pitiful civilization ispiring of sympa- lulation is several a or three families nulattoish race, an and negroes, with blood. Indolence ife and character. ;ars to be the sup- e steamships, that oal and provisions, The houses arc , and whitewashed dder than a gener- tiurch square opens the market-place, THE EVENING AT ACAPULCO. 375 where, from little stands or on the pavement, the simple wares and food and fruits and fancy shells of the people, are offered for sale by gross women, dreary old hags, or precocious girls ; and chaffering goes on day and evening with citizen and stranger. A few of us landed and spent the evening on shore ; and it was a weird scene that the market-place pre- sented under rude and scant torch-light. Occasion- ally we found a comely girl among the stands, with rounded arm and bright eye, and such usually got the best bargains from our party. A trick of the trade is to make you a present of some petty article, even to force it upon you, with flattering manner and speech, — and then to expect gallant and rjunifi- cent return in coin. This is type of tropical trading the world over, and in all ages, I believe. Did not Abraham or other of the old prophets buy land for burial pla* for his kindred under such embarrass- ing circumstances ? Close and heavy was the even- ing's heat ; and the people, not busy trading with the Yankees, laid around loose in hammocks, or on the floors of piazza, thinly raimented, stolid, indif- ferent and indolent. Mr. Colfax and some of his friends went to call on Geneml Alvarez, the Mexican (Juarez) com- mander of all this region, and by the help of an interpreter had some talk with him. The general has reputation as one of the best men of his party ; he seemed substantial and sensible in mind ; and for his body was a big, burly negro. We met at his place a younger and livelier representative of the Mexicans, a member of the Liberal Congress, i— i 376 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. who spoke with zeal and intelligence of his country and its cause, and was disposed to upbraid Mr. Col- fax a trifle for not more heartily espousing their side against Maximilian, in his California speeches. Such men as these two inspire some interest and fuith in their country ; but the general effect of all we saw and learned at Acapulcc was not very en- couraging. Without our aid, dire:iy or indirectly, we were assured by American residents, there was little hope for the Mexican rcsistants to Maximil- ian's authority. The interference of the United States in some form or another was his fear and their faith. Acapulco itself alternates in posses- sion between the two parties. A French man-of- war comes into the harbor ; General Alvarez and his followers retreat into the back country ; and the Frenchmen possess a barren town. Thev go away, a '' the Mexican leaders come back, Eitlier way, there is little Hifference in affairs ; there is no com- merce save such a.^ the American steamships make, and this goes on uninterruptedly. Though Aca- pulco is the largest town in the west of Mexico, its chief Pacific port, theie is no" " single road out from it to the interior ; there is no ingre^ or egress save on foot or horseback ; no other means of com- munication between it and the capital. The town has no wheeled vehicle of higher pretensions than a wheelbarrow. What can be done for a people who, with two hundred years and more of contact with civilization, can do no more for themselves ? It was season of religious festivity v/hen we were there ; and a third distinguished personage we met at Al- vai wh chi for fol sti: sid coi cig toi sei foi M( so an ch Oi fri pli St( tic .St( th: icc pa op pli in W( on ENT. nee of his country > upbraid Mr. Coi- y espousing their ilifornia speeches. lOme interest and ineral effect of all was not very en- ;:iy or indirectly, sidcnti), there was tants to Maximil- ;e of the United was his fear and irnates in posses- A. French nian-of- leral Alvarez and country ; and the 1. Thev go away, ack. Eitiier way, ; there is no com- i steamships make, y. Though Aca- vest of Mexico, its ". single road out o ingre^ or egress her means of com- apital. The town r pretensions than done for a people d more of contact or themselves } It hen we were there ; age we met at Al- TRADINO WITH THE MEXICANS. 377 varez's head-quarters was a fat old mulatto priest, who had rome in from the interior to preside at the church ceremonies, and had brought along with him for Christian solace and refection, for himself and followers, a couple of hundred rare fighting cocks! When we returned to the steamer, there was still a crowd of little boats along and under her sides, filled with Mexicans of all ages, sexes and conditions of raiment; with their stocks of fruits, cigars, eggs and shells; fitfully lit up with pine torches ; and engaged in noisy traffic with the pas- sengers on the decks far above. It was not possible for many of the passengers to go on shore, and the Mexicans were not allowed to come on to the ship ; so with mingled shoutings of English and Spanish, and bj' the help of baskets and long ropes, the ex- change of com and commodities went on for hours. Oranges and bananas and limes were the principal fruits, and were alike fresh and cheap ; and large sup- plies were taken in by both passengers and the ship's steward. It was interesting and exciting interrup- tion to the monotony of the voyage to make this stop at Acapulco ; and to passengers coming down the Coast, it gives the first close observation of trop- ical life and vegetation. Here were the groves of palm, of banana, of cocoa-nut ; here, luxuriant in the open air, the broad leaves and rich colors of many plants that are seen in the temperate latitudes only in hot-houses ; here, fresh from trees, on the trees, were the delicious fruits that come tg us at homo only after long voyages, and often stale and tasteless. . On down the 'Coast again, by Mexico, out of S78 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. I si^'ht, of course, but not out of thought '>f its mammolh volcano, I'opocatapctl, the hii^hest known mountain of North America, (seventeen thousand seven hundred and eighty-three feet) ; across the gulfof Tehuantepec; by Guatemala; by its wonder- ful and beautiful volcnnic mountains, peaceful now, but exquisite in outline, perfect in cone-shapes, and rising to thirteen thousand and fourteen thousand feet in hight ; by San Salvador ; amused with the lively little flying fishes that single or in shoals skipped from wave to wave, flashing in the sunlight, as dexterous boy skips bright stone over the water, and awed with tropical lightning that made the heavens all aglow with wide and frequent flashes ; by Nicaragua, where the opposition line of steamers, as yet weak, stop, and their passengers cross to Atlantic waters ; then Costa Rica ; steering easterly all this while to keep the tapering Continent ; last New Granada; and on early morning at close of fortnight, rounding into the wide, warm bay of Panama, where the narrow neck of land, that con- nects and divides two seas and two Continents, confronts us. It is a charming scene, as we go by the richly-green islands of the bay, one with thriv- ing-looking town at its base, another holding sa- credly exclusive the sad burial-place for strangers and travelers, another the depot for the steamships, others undisputed with luxuriant and grasping na- ture, and anchor, amid all, in front of the quaint old city of Janama. The harbor itself is center for wide commerce North and South, gathering here to cross the Isthmus, and reach Aiherican :vnd Euro- pcai ligh V The two was cen eag up, cab ton dop bea gra the ev fe\ wl: sij ENT. )f thought (f its :hc highest known vcntcen thousand feet) ; across the ila ; by its wonder- ins, peaceful now, 1 cone-shapes, and fourteen thousand amused with the ingle or in shoals ng in the sunlight, ine over the water, fig that made the :1 frequent flashes; )n line of steamers, \ssengers cross to I ; steering easterly ng Continent ; last orning at close of ide, warm bay of : of land, that con- d two Continents, scene, as we go by jay, one with thriv- nother holding sa- place for strangers for the steamships, it and grasping na- front of the quaint )r itself is center for h, gathering here to Liherican :vnd Euro- DEATH ON SHIPBOARD. 379 pcan centers ; but a bad bar forces the slow use of lighters for passengers and freight. We left the steamer one less than came upon it. There was a death among the steerage passengers, two days before reaching Panama; but the body was brought on, and lies now in the lonely strangers' cemetery out in the bay. Poor fellow! He was eager to go " home " to die. That hope buoyed him up, as it keeps alive a feeble, struggling lady in the cabin: but disease was too strong for even this tonic,— and now he lies buried, afar from kindred, dependent upon strangers for the last offices, and bearing, painted on the simple board above his grave, these more sympathetic than coherent lines, the composition of one of the ship's guard :— Death chanced to roam o'er the ocean'.s breast. And spied a hapless wandcr- -er wanting rest, Who from the western land of gold returning To see his childhood's home was yearning. But unpitying death, with resistless stroke. The casket of his soul broke ope, And set forth to another home From whence again it ne'er will roam. We spent the day from early morning till late evening upon the Isthmus. By grace and gold, a few passengers were landed at once at Panama, which gave us several hours there for breakfast, for sight-seeing, for shopping, before the great crowd J t^imm 380 ACROSS THE CONTINKNT. of our company, the baRK-'RC and the fast freight couUl be transhipped, and the trains for their con- veyance over to Aspinwall be made ready. Panama we found to be only an improvement over Acapulco ; it mingled more modern quality with its as ancient features ; the streets were broadc*r ; the houses of two stories ; and carta and rickety omnibuses, and a fiuc carriage or two, as well as retail stores by Jews or Yankees, and large warehouses under ICng- lish or American superintciulence, showed the in- novations and elevations of commerce. There was a flavor of Spanish about everything, however ; the food, the churches, the stores, the town generally ; decayed, effete, luxuriant, tropical Spanish. The natives were a good deal mixed, wearing all the mulatto shades; the women flaunting in narrow, sleazy white gowns, rich with wide negro ruffles and furbelows; and the children rollicking in single, short, wide chemises, or unblushing and bold with utter freedom of covering. The churches, ancient, cheap and moss-grown, won no veneration except for their antiquity ; they told of no interest in re- ligion ; of nothing but a tawdry, vulgar fanaticism ; a lazy, cock-fighting priesthood, and an indifferent parish. We found the bats flying about in the arches above and behind the altar, and priests and boys firing guns at them among the poor tinselry of the worship, with results more damaging to "bell, book and candle" than birds. The things to buy here at Panama are fine linen lawns for ladies' dresses ; they are delicate and pretty, and, Panama being a free port, cheap; besides which they are ra c cit.» in c war pon / star wai ble ma< to ( rail the imj and noj bot tra ses rid( are of pos froi oth ] sta eye thr fiei Sp da^ IF. NT. ul the fast freight I'ins fur their euii- le ready. Tanania :nt over Acapulcd ; with its as ancient l<?r; the houses of ;ty omnibuses, and as retail stores by houses under Eng- ce, showed the in- merce. There was tiing, however ; the le town generally; cal Spanish. The id, wearing all the Hinting in narrow, [le negro ruffles and allicking in single, [ling and bold with ?. churches, ancient, ) veneration except f no interest in re- , vulgar fanaticism ; , and an indifferent ying about in the tar, and priests and ,g the poor tinselry 2 damaging to "bell, The things to buy n lawns for ladies' pretty, and, Panama des which they are THE RAILROAD OVER THE ISTHMUS. 381 ra -ely to be had in New York, or other northern ci».es. Our passengers also found some bargains in other linen goods and under clothing ; and their wardrobes were sen.sibly improved, without corres- ponding benefit to Uncle Samuel's customs revenue. At mid-day, the long and crowded passenger train started Across the Isthmus,— treasure and baggage waited for a second,— and we had that ever-memora- ble ride, in the experience of all who have ever made this trip, between the Continents, from ocean to ocean, in the very fullness of the tropics, over rails fairly built upon human bodies, so fatal was the miasma of the country to nearly all classes of imported laborers. The road is fifty miles long, and the run is made in two to three hours. Mo- nopolizing the commerce of all the Pacific Coast of both North and South America, the gateway for all travel from Continent to Continent, it is a rich pos- session to its owners. The fare for this two hour.s' ride is no less than twenty-five dollars, and freights are correspondingly high. The sleepers and ties of the track are of lignum-vitae wood, the telegraph posts of cement, as thus only are both protected from rot and insect. The road is well appointed in other respects, and the service unexceptionable. But the ride was rare revelation. All was sub- stantially new and strange to our unused northern eyes; and we stared and wondered and absorbed through all this tropical passage. The sun was not fierce ; one will suffer more from heat in a ride from Springfield to New York of a dry and dusty August day ; but the warmth was deep and high, — it lay in I .1 1. 3^2 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. thick, heavy, sensuous folds in the air,— it did not fret, but it permeated and subdued and enriched. With Nature, it was st ison of rest,— cobrs were dulled from the spring and early summer hues,— but what quantity ! what ripaiess and fullness, what luxuriant, wanton rioting! There was no limit to variety or aboundingness of tree and shrub, and plant and flower and grass. Waste and robbery, there could not be in such abundance ; the vacancy of to-day's ax or fire is filled to-morrow ; only daily use of hatchet and scythe keeps open path. Palms everywhere, singly and in groves, with great rough fruit, rich in oil ; ferns as trees and in forests ; clus- ters of bananas as big as an honest two-bushel charcoal basket, yet hidden by the generous leaves of their tree ; bread-fruit and cocoa-nuts ripening and rotting out of reach of man or beast ; tall oaks and short oaks ; little trees and big trees of every family, interlaced so closely that you -could not tell where one begun and the other left off; vines, ten- der and strong, marrying everything to everybody, running up, and running down, and running around, dropping down lines straight and stiff like ropes, all through the woods, making swings everywhere, but permitting no place for their play ; great, coarse, flaming flower, and delicate, tender microscopic bios, som holding up its cup by roadside, between rails, on every hand ; occasionally bright plumage of gay bird fluttered across the vision among the thick foliage, and hid behind leaves so wide and long that we knew why Adam and Eve needed no tailor or mantua-maker, — one would suffice for all ordinary leng cont A buill and poin ges; and fore: veg( the whi1 in t negi wan The girl; the not whe V up I gers whc mar cam The that the imp of c soni L-_ I ENT. le air,— it did not led and enriched, •est, — cobrs were • summer hues, — and fullness, what e was no limit to e and shrub, and aste and robbery, ince; the vacancy lorrow ; only daily )pen path. Palms , with great rough id in forests ; clus- honest two-bushel le generous leaves ocoa-nuts ripening or beast ; tall oaks big trees of every you -could not tell left off; vines, ten- hing to everybody, nd running around, nd stiff like ropes, swings everywhere, play; great, coarse, er microscopic bios-, side, between rails, jht plumage of gay 1 among the thick so wide and long )ve needed no tailor iffice for all ordinary LIFE IN THE TROPICS. 383 length of nakedness: — thus and more like it and continuously was our ride across the Isthmus. At frequent intervals along the road are well- built stations with handsome yards and gardens and American occupants. Adjoining, and at other points, we passed crowded negro hamlets and villa- ges ; their houses frequently thatched both on top and side with the generous leaves of the adjoining forests, and their food the easy-growing fruits and vegetables of the tropics. What work they will do the railroad probably furnishes. The mark of the white man is among them ; if dead, he yet liveth in the blood of the native ; but the habit of the negro is dominant. The climate and their rude wants invite a lazy, sensual life, and such is theirs*- There is small expenditure for clothes; boys and girls, even of full-growth, stroll freely about before the passing trains, .and among their fellows, with not a rag of clothing to their bodies ; and the men, when they do work, strip as fully to the task. We pass by the thick and sinuous Chagres River, up and down which in flat-boats the early passen- gers by this route were pushed by the negro ; along whose banks in this slow and painful passage did many lie down to die ; and out of whose fetid breath came many a long-lurking and finally fatal fever. The passage is now made so quickly in the cars, that there is little danger at any season of taking the fever of the country. Exposure to the rain, or imprudence in eating, added to a system receptive of disease, are quite likely to bring it on ; but per- sons in ordinary health and taking reasonable care i_ 384 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. of themselves need have no apprehensions. As a precaution, many travelers by this route take small doses of quinine ^or a day or two before reaching the Isthmus and a day or two after passing it. In this way the system is pretty surely toned up against the feverish tendencies of the passage. We came into Aspinwall, in the first rain storm that we had felt since rain and hail pelted us so mercilessly on the Plains near Fort Kearney, most four months ago, and found that a dreary new town of one street, lined with hotels and shops and Jamaica negroes and negresses. These people are proof against this climate ; they luxuriate and thrive from the start here, and it was due to their importation that the railroad was finally completed, as it was, after all other importations, white and black alike, had fallen in their tracks along its line of rotting nature, stirred to revengeful miasma by. shovel and i:)ick. Aspinwall has no past like Panama, no present and no future but what the railroad and steamships make for it. There was a political revolution and civil war in progress on the Isthmus as we came through ; but what it was all about, nobody could intelligently tell us; and we were not half so ex- cited by the fact as we should have been over the ebullition of a neighboring volcano, — the latter be- ing the more strange and interesting event here in Central America than the former. The town had little to interest us ; plenty of tropical fruits and imported liquors ; plenty of cheap stores, but no " bargains," and not a wanting watch crystal on the I tlmuis ! So we were glad when the baggage was riNENT. pprehensions. As a this route take small two before reaching after passing it. In irely toned up against passage. the first rain storm nd hail pelted us so Fort Kearney, most a dreary new town of d shops and Jamaica se people are proof riate and thrive from to their importation completed, as it was, teand black alike, had ine of rotting nature, ly. shovel and i:)ick. Panama, no present Iroad and steamships litical revolution and Isthmus as we came about, nobody could were not half so ex- have been over the Icano, — the latter be- resting event here in men The town had f tropical fruits and cheap stores, but no : watch crystal on the hen the baggage was ON THE ATLANTIC SIDE. 385 all on board our new steamer, and the gun sum- moned us to follow it to our places. The steamship service on the Atlantic side, be- tween Aspinwall and New York, has been very poor for years ; a disreputable monopoly, and greatly aggravating the perils and discomforts of the Cali- fornia voyage. But lately the management has been changed, and the service much improved ; and we were in the luck to connect with a new and ele- gant steamship, on her first voyage, and under com- mand of that Nestor of Isthmus-going sailors. Cap- tain Tinklepaugh. The discomfort of a crowd continued and increased, for the vessel was of less size than that of the Pacific side ; and we missed the shambles and the butcher's shop before getting through, for the meats for the round trip on this side, covering twenty days' time, are taken out of New York on the ice. But in all other respects the accommodations and service were beyond criti- cism ; and old travelers on the route reported the improvement from the sad past beyond description. Good fortune attended us, too, in the weather ; the September equinoctial was past due, but we escaped even the breath of it. The Caribbean Sea forgot its accustomed crispness and spared our stomachs and appetites. Threading our way through the West India Islands ; stopping at none, and catching glimpse of but few ; passing near but outside Cuba, and waving our hands to its eastern shores, we swept up on calm waters, under summer skies, into the ^road Atlantic ; caught the Gulf Stream and crossed it ; cherished our fears of a rough time "off Hat- «7 25 386 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. teras." and woke to pass the dreaded spot on the smoothest sea of all; and, our steamer bemg fast and on her trial trip, and winds and seas favonng from first to last, we disposed of our two thousand miles, and swept into never more beautiful New York harbor on soft September morning, and up to the dock, in just six days and a half from Aspmwal , this being the shortest trip ever made by any vessel. Though one day longer on the Pacific side than usual, the whole journey from San Francisco to New York was thus accomplisned in twenty-one days The whole distance is five thousand miies; with* fine weather and crowding the steamers up to their fullest power, it can be passed over in eijihteen or nineteen days ; but the trip is ordinarily extended to twenty-two to twenty-four days. The tropcal weather kept with us until within two days of New York, and indeed is the usual experience of two- thirds to three-fourths the voyage, on both Coasts, whatever the season. On this side no land is seen from leaving the Isthmus till Cuba, and none agam till the Jersey shore is sighted as New York is neared. The whole line of this service, on both sides the Continent, has now passed into the hands of the Pacific Mail Steamship Company, heretoioie con- trolling: only the steamers on the Pacific Coast. TWs eve' t is hailed with delight by all Calhornia ^r^velers Old and new. The Pacific Company is the most notable triumph of our American steam marine, and is as popular as it has been successful So passenger steamships in the world are larger or more elegant than theirs ; no service more satisfac^ INENT. Ircadcd spot on the ■ steamer being fast is and seas favoring of our two thousand more beautiful New r morning, and up to half from Aspinwall, r made by any vessel, the Pacific side than m San Francisco to lisned in twenty-one five thousand miles; jg the steamers up to issed over in eighteen is ordinarily extended r days. The tropical thin two days of New al experience of two- >yage, on both Coasts, is side no land is seen :uba, and none again till 5 New York is neared. ■vice, on both sides the into the hands of the npany, heretoiore con- on the Pacific Coast, eiight by all California le Pacific Company is )f our American steam it has been successful, the world are larger or Lo service more satisfac- J. THE PACIFIC MAIL STEAMSHIP COMPANY. 387 tory to the public. They have within a year put three new and mammoth, vessels on the Pacific portion of the line, and new and larger and better steamers than have ever been employed on this side will be at once placed in the service to connect with them. A uniform excellence in accommodations will be maintained on both sets of steamers ; and for the fir.st time in the history of California emigration and commerce, their facilities will be somewhat commensurate to their extent and importance, and the voyage will invite rather than deter the traveler. For the past few months, the tide of travel has been greater from than to California;; the larger prosperity of the East has invited home the unsuc- cessful there; but this is n- ikely to continue. The general flow must be the oiher way. And with these more agreeable facilities, and a widening curi- osity and interest in the region of the Pacific Coast, there will soon grow up a large pleasure travel from the Atlantic States to those of the Pacific. The public and the Pacific Steamship Company are both fortunate in the new arrangement, and the pros- perity of the latter is likely to be still more conspic- uous. The owners and chief managers are in New York ; though all its heavy interests and property have been till now on the Pacific Coast ; and now it has added still further to its undertakings the pro- posed line of steamships between San Francisco and China. Larger and stauncher ships, if possible, will be built for this service, than are run on the Coast ; the line is to commence wi.h 1867 ; and the event will mark a new era in the commercial history 388 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. of the Pacific and the RepubUc. So fortuni.te has this steamship company jDcen, though it lost one of its best vessels (the Golden Gate) three years ago by fire, that its three new ships o© the Pacific Coast, costing a million of dollars each, were all built out of the profits of insuring its own property. Its steamers will henceforth run three times a month between California and New York, and the fares for passengers are established at three hundred and fifty dollars for first-class, two hundred and fifty dol- lars for second, and one hundred and twenty-five dollars for steerage. These rates seem high ; but they include board and the passage across the Isth- mus, and are really but a little higher in proportion than the steamship rates to Europe, while the ex- penses in the latter service are much less. All the coal, for instance, used by the Pacific steamers, has to be carried way around Cape Horn from the East. No adequate source of supply has yet been devel- oped on the Pacific Coast. ' The point where relief and improvement are most needed, it seems to me, on this great thoroughfare of continental travel, is in the over-crowding of the steamers. I know they must carry large numbers in order to support such fine vessels and such an expensive service ; but they surely do not need to carry more than can be comfortably accommodated with state-rooms and berths. There should be a limit set to the number going on each steamer, which for no reason should be exceeded. If three steamers a month will not accommodate the pas- sengers applying, then run four or five, — one a day. if ne exce is ir pan) theii will passi ble£ capa all w Thei ture close thet the\ are c the : amel racy straii to m comi and cent garn ceas( tunit gone nent, degr( .1 mmmmmr'-xrrr )^9i9>mmm f m |^ . '^^' m < i *^m ^mm l^m»mlmmmmlmm NENT. . So fortuni.te has lough it lost one of ,te) three years ago to the Pacific Coast, I, were all built out own property. Its iree times a month rk, and the fares for three hundred and mdred and fifty dol- ed and twenty-five :es seem high ; but ige across the Isth- ligher in proportion irope, while the ex- much less. All the 'acific steamers, has Horn from the East, las yet been devel- provement are most great thoroughfare ver-crowding of the :arry large numbers 'essels and such an rely do not need to ably accommodated There should be a J on each steamer, exceeded. If three ommodate the pas- or five, — one a day, THE UNHEALTHY CROWD ON THE STEAMERS. 389 if necessary. First-class passengers ought not to exceed three to a state-room ; that is a crowd ; more is indecent. If the Pacific Mail Steamship Com- pany would preserve their reputation and continue their substantial monopoly of this great traffic, they will have to make reform here, — to put no more passengers on their boats than they have comforta- ble accommodations for ; to have boats of uniform capacity on each side the Isthmus, and to insure to all who take tickets through just what they fay for. There is moral unhealth in this heterogenejus mix- ture of humanity that flows back and forth in such close communion from California. The strong and the true are only made wiser for the experience ; but the vain and the weak, the susceptible and unsettled are only and often contaminated. Everything that the Steamship Company and its officers can do to ameliorate these inevitable incidents of such democ- racy of ompany in such pent-up quarters ; to re- strain and punish the wicked ; to protect the weak; to make the long and tedious voyage on shipboard comfortable an^! tasteful to all, seems to have been and to be done, except this of preventing an inde- cent over-crowding of state-rooms and saloons. — But the summer's journey is ended; and my garrulity over its experiences and observations must cease. It has been a rare experience ; a rare oppor- tunity, happily achieved by and for us all. We have gone together from ocean to ocean, across a Conti- nent, up and down a Continent ; from longitude one degree to longitude thirty-four degrees ; from lati- 390 ACROSS THE CONTINENT. tude fifty degrees to latitude seven degrees ; travel- ing in all some twelve thou^nd miles, half by sea, nearly a third by stage, and the balance by railroad and river ; crossing the great mountain ranges of the Continent ; exploring the forests, the mines, the commerce of a new world ; seen and learned the field of a new empire ; enjoyed the most generous of hospitality in every possible and imaginable form ; and are back in our homes in a trifle more than four months from the day of leaving them. All without the accident of a finger's scratch ; all without break- ing for a moment the harmony of our personal circle. We part here ; we lay off the robes of honored guests, that were so unexpectedly laid upon us, and so richly endowed through all our long journey ; we return to our accustomed lives ; but we come back with fuller measure of the American Republic and larger faith in its destiny. For myself, this summer bear.« greatest increase for my knowledge and my life ; it will be perpetual pleasure to have had it ; it will be great glory to have contributed in any degree by these letters to a knowledge by the American People of the real breadth and capacity, the necessities and the possibilities of the American Nation. It Th Centi volun New of it i theS made ment we fir firme( Th Bmon plaini to nir three briRh tincti a jier inoth featiii see it andn lU when Aniei nent and r here, artd I and t evcrj in so Pi Thi Bosi U ^-i- NENT. en degrees; travel- miles, half by sea, balance by railroad nountain ranges of rests, the mines, the ;n and learned the le most generous of i imaginable form; rifle more than four them. All without ; all without break- ■ our personal circle. IS. of honored guests, pon us, and so richly journey ; we return ve come back with Republic and larger f, this summer bear.« :dge and my life ; it ve had it ; it will be i in any degree by he American People ', the necessities and in Nation. By the Same Author. The Switzerland of America. COLORADO: Its Parks and Mountains. A SUMMER VACATION IN CAMP AND SADDLE WITH VICE-PRESIDENT COLFAX. By SAMUEL BOWLES, AUTHOR or "across THE CONTIMINT." A volume of 175 pages — Price One Dollar. From Ihi Prt/aei. Thbsb letters of a Summer Vacation, in saddle and camp, among the great Central Parks and Mountains of America in Colorado, are gathered into this volume in order both to satisfy and stimulate the public interest in a region of our New West destined to a peculiar placo in the future of America. We saw enough of it in our stage ride acnws the Continent in 1865 to suggest that it would become the Switzerland of America ; Bayard Taylor, a wider traveler and closer observer, made a more familiar tour in 1866, and more formally pronounced the same judg- ment ; and now, after a new visit, and an intimate acquaintance with all its details, we find our original enthusiasm more than rekindled, our original thought con- firmed. The distinctive physical feature of Colorado Is he wide elevated Pai'ka, lying among her double and treble folds of the continental range of mounuins, — great plains, like counties in Illinois and Iowa, or states in New England, six thousand to nine thousand feet above the sea-level, surrounded by mounuins that rise fi-om three to five thousand fe^t higher ; plains, green with grass, dark with proves, bright with flowers; mounta' s, dreary with rocks, white with snow. The dis- tinctive charm is the atmosphere, so clear and pure and dry all the while, as to be a iwrpetual feeling, rather tlian vision, of beauty ; invigorating every sense, softly snothmg every pain, lending a glory to landscape a.id life alike, clothing every feature of nature with beauty, and giving the eye of evcrj- spectator the power to see it,— this is the indescribable thing that lifts Colorado out of other lackings, and more than compensates, in the comparison, for what is peculiar to Swilierland. Hcic, v.here the great backbone of the Continent rears and rests itself; here, where nature sets the patterns of plain and mountain, of valley and hill, for all America : here, where spring the waters that wash two-thirds the western Conti- nent and feed both its oceans : here, where mountains are fiit with gold and silver, and prairies glory in the glad certainty of future harvests of com and wheat. — here, indeed, is the center and the central life of America,— fountain of its wealth and health and Iwauty. Swilierland is pleasure and health ; Colorado is these and use besides,— the use of beauty, and the use of profitable work united. I beg every traveler by the Pacific Railroad not to "|>as8 i; by on the other side ;" for, in so doing, he would offend the best that is in him. Published by Samuel Bowles & Company, Springfield, Mass. ; The American Nbws Company, New York; Lee & Shefard, Boston. Ur* Copie* sent by mail, pottage paid, on receipt of price. Daily ^ Semi- Weekly, and Weekly. The Springfield Republican, A NEW ENGLAND FAMILY JOURNAL OF News, Politics, Literature and Social Life. rl'BLISHED BY SAMUEL BOWLES & COMPANY, SPRINGFIELD, MASS. To picture the progress of the varied and busy life of New England, ai to rep- resent its inquisitive and active thought on all questions that concern the comfort and the elevation of society ; to make, indeed, a part of that life and that thought, — this is the scope and aim of TiiK Springpiild Republican newspaper. 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The Daily Republican is furnished at three cents and ^ a year ; The Semi-Weekly at $4 a year, or f 3 in dubs ; and The Weekly at fa, or f 1.75 in dubs. 1 Pr Caiat.* a'14l,/#SV4«bl^/S ' ^'a *1^ W V «#■ «* V v**^ ^»^^^*b ■|'**«'»* v^^bvii*^ ««« ^m V V •■X'* «#lia^ *aiv BHVi but the meaning and moral of every event ; free, candid and piquant Ediloria Discussion' of all public occurrences, men and things ; intelligent and indcpend ent Corrrspondence from Boston, New York and Washington, the far West, am B( ELE Thi Sprini EngU Th( chinei Evi iimpli Bin BLi reUU. Ph( by ma Bo( Le< Inl Binde the be Ord Me Housi ance ( at she orderi detad ^publican, ' JOURNAL d Social Life. tfPANY, >f New England, ai to rep> I* that concern the comfort r that life and that thought, ;bi.ican newspaper. Con- ;irehcn!iive of New England enlightenment ; as an expo- vanced, on qucstioni of po- :r and development, and of irt of its conductors to main- ] widen the character of the for all cktMCS of our people. (wspaper and Family Jour- 1 system in the preparation g to give not only the fact idid and piquant Editorial ; intelligent and indcpend- hington, the far West, and I of^ opinion and criticism ; naries of intnlligence in the es, Etsays, Poetry, bits of m original contributors, or America and Europe. No EPUoi.<CAN to all this latter 3. UoLLAND (Timothy Tit- :an : and " Warkington " from Boston. id more a general ii'amily intelligent Review of the ts two columns of financial, lat is wanting in the way of the great bulk of its ample jndence, Literary Reviews iting and instructive family ' throughout New England, ' local New England news ; ew England opmion ; ai:d, tui« of the day. !■ a week, and the Sbmi- sheet of eight pages and 48 istory of provincial journal- ;e or wide-spread a reading, ues at prices as low as any mOst first-class daily news- ind $13 a year, Thb Daily ; The Ssmi-Wbbkly at $4 ti in clubs. Priniing — Binding — Blank Books — Albums. SAMUEL BOWLES & COMPANY, SPRINGFIELD, MASS., OWN AND CONDUCT AN EXTBNSIVB Book and Job -Printing Office, BOOK BINDERY, AND Blank Book Manufactory, INCLL'niNO AN ELECTROTYPING ESTABLISHMENT AND A MANU- FACTORY OF PHOTOGRAPH ALBUMS. TiiBiR establishment occupies one of the largest buildings on Main street, SpnnKfield, and, in capacity and completeness, ha* no superior in all New England. They run twenty-five different Printing Presses, between filiy and sixty ma- chines of all kinds, and employ nearly three hundred workmen and women. Every description of Printing, firom Cards and Handbills to Books ; from the simplest and plainest to the most intricate, elegant and costly. BiNDiNO of all sorts and in every style. Blank Books of every £uhion, made to order, or on sale, wholesale and retail. PHOTOCRArH Albums, from 15 cents to (15 each, singly or by (he quantity, by mail or express, at lowest manufacturers' prices. Books stereotyped, printed, bound and published. Lboal Blanks printed to order, or on sale in any quantity. In brief, all Job Work and ManuEicturing ever done in Printing Office and Bindery, is performed at this establishment, prompily, of the best materials, by the best of workmen, and in the best manner known in either art Orders by mail as fiuthfiiUy attended to as those left in person. ' PATENT COUNTING-ROOM CALENDAR. Messrs. Bowles & CoMrAKV manufsictute this, the most convenient Counting- House Calendar in use, which is also a desirable means of advertising, foi Insur- ance Companies, Bankers, Merchant)!, and business n^en generall;'. Orders filled at short notice, in lots uf from 500 to 50,000, with the business ca.'ds if parties ordering on each leaf, printed in such a manner that the advertiseme its cannot b« detached and destroyed as long as the Calendar is in use. .J. Publications of Samuel Bowks 6* Company, The Mines of Colorado, Bv O. J. HOLLISTER, t<M, EdU>r and VrvfrUior ,/ /*. C.lon.d. M.Hinf 7<mrmt, and EdU,r rf tkt Rowley MouiMin ^'^vu ^ Thl. U . popular work on COLORADO. »h. aim of which i. .o giv. .11 .h. in- formation po«ibl« abou. .hB int.r...ing country. I. U hi.torical. d«.cr,...v. «.d .Uti..ical; giv.. a lu.tcry of the diKo.cry of gold. th. ..rl, «.tUm.nt and de- ^lopment of civilization in th. Rocky Mountain. . d«cnb«. th. phy.ca p.culi. ^U.. of th. country, it. dimat. and capacity, it. r.«>urc.. and product.oni^ „p.cially in mining; and ha. voluminou. and authentic .t.t..t.c. ««'^;° Urpr.«nt condition of th. mine th. nature of th. v.in.ton... method, of tr.at. m.nl of th. or.^ name, of mining compwii.^ .tc. etc Four Hundred and Fifty page., duodecimo, with a 1«,. »ni well defined Map of th« Twritory ; pric it- EMERSON'S New Internal Revenue Guide, AN INDISPENSABLE MANUAL FOR ALL REVENUE OFFICKKS, AN 'ND'SPENSAB^^^^^^^ ^^ ^^^^^ TAX-PAYEK. Containing an AnnoU.ed Edition of THE NEW INTERNAL REVENUE ACTTmling T«... on Di.tilLd Spirit, and Tobacco, and for other purpo«.. , ^aX L Al«>. th. Act exempting crUin manu^cture. from Interna ?r.o.eth.r with a Guid. w-d Hand-Book to all th. Int.mal Revenue U». Irint^EdLand Annotated byCHARLESN.EMERSON.Co»««lor. «t-Law and AweMor Tenth MawachuMtt. DUtnct M.dium Octavo. Paper Cover.. Price 50 cent.. fi The above book., .ent by mail, poatage paid, on receipt of th. price «»v«e4 SAMUEL BOWLES & COMPANY, SPRINGFIELD, MASS. s ^ Company. >lorado, ER, r Jmrwl, and Bditfr rf \ which ii to give «11 the in- It hitlorical, descriptive and le early letlUraent and de- !«:rib«» the pliynical peculi- retourcet and productions, ilic •tatiilie* wlih regard to einiloDCf, melhotU of treat- large and well defined Map 'S nue Guide, REVENUB OFFICKKS, VX-PAYKK, INTERNAL REVENUE lacco, and for other purposes, n manu&ctures from Internal 1 tbe Internal Revenue Lawa S N. EMERSON, CounaeUw receipt of th* price aQnesed S & COMPANY, SPRINGFIELD, MASS. i j i j i itf<i i<lii » i i i I I ■ ' '.^^Swes-r -i ^»*5'5W!«*'S^W'*>*W!WKW-aH