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A Si

ROCKY

EDI'

Across the Continent:

A Stage Ride Over the Plains,

TO THB

ROCKY MOUNTAINS, THE MORMONS, AND
THE PACIFIC STATES,

\ii THE SUMMER OF 1865,

WITH SPEAKER COLFAX.

By SAMUEL BOWLES,

EDITOR OF THE SPRINGFIELD (MASS.) REPUBLICAN.

NEW EDITION.

SPRINGFIELD, MASS. :

SAMUEL BOWLES & COMPANY.

NEW YORK:

HUPD & HOUGHTON.

1869.

PI^V'

Speaket

Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1865, by

SAMUEL BOWLES & COMPANY,

In the Clerk's Office of the District Court for the District of Massa-
chusetts.

jo <

i^wr

SAMUEL BOWLES AND COMPANY,

Printers and Binders,

My Dear
It was s(
summer, —
all mysteri
kinder weli
go along wi
skies for tl
cnces. Be
ship gave i
first sugges
be prt toge
and your q
statistic. !
charm of y
thor-land.
You kno
the first wli
the countr
wants, and
our duties \

•ess, in the year 1865, by

: COMPANY,

irt for the District of Massa-

Introductory Letter

TO THE

Hon. SCHUYLER COLFAX,

speaker of the United States Home of Representatives.

My Dear Mr. Colfax; —

It was so pleasant anc' o profitable to travel with you during the
summer, — your amiability and your popularity so readily unlocked
all mysteries, and made all paths so straight; even Nature gave
kinder welcome to your progress . than her wont ; that I would fain
go along with you still farther, and ensure by your presence summer
skies for this story of our observations, this record gf our experi-
ences. Besides, the book is more yours than mine. Your friend-
ship gave me the opportunity for the travel ; your favoring thought
first suggested to me the then strange idea that the Letters should
be prt together into a volume ; and your wide and close observatioa
and your quick insight helped me to much of the material and the
statistic. So I may riglitly claim the favor of your name, and the
<:harm of your company, in this new and unexpected trip into au-
thor-land.

You know how strange it seemed to us that our party were almost
the first who had ever traveled Across the Continent simply to see
the country, to study its resources, to learn its people and their
wants, and to acquit ourselves more intelligently, thereby, each in
our duties to the public, — you in the Government, and we as JDur-

INTRODUCrORY LETTER

nalists. How slrange, too, the idea was to the people along our
route. They could not well believe that we did not come on a
selfish mission of some sort; s-me secret governmental service; to
see how they could best be taxed ; to locate the I'acific Railroad ;
to make a bargain with the Mormons ; to regulate the politics of
the distant States, — it least to speculDte in mines, and buy corner
lots. When the fact was realized, while the many felt gratified and
flattered, and showed such feeling in a hospitality that had no meas-
ure, tl re were some, you remember, who could not repress the
genuine American contempt for whatever is not tangible and real
and money-making; and I am afraid we passed in not a few minds
for what, in mining vernacular, are known as "bummers."

So I could hardly realize, until I examined the subject, that there
vas in our literature no connected and complete account of this great
Western HMf ofour Continent People had visited itin plenty; i*s
whole population, indeed, is drawn from the East; scholars are
abundant on the Pacific Coast, — indeed, it in claimed J5 fact that San
Francisco and vicinity hold more rollege graduates, in proportion to
population, than any other city in ;he country; but they have gc.^c
with other objects than to see, to study, and to descibe ; they are
dealing with materialities, and, as a rule, have taken little time to
look about them, loid observe the fantastic fashions of Nature, to
worship the majestic beauty, to comprehend the varied resources of
an Empire, that belong to their new Home. Starr King had written
home of a few singH features in California scenery; ^ .. Hcj.jws
came back penetrated with wide and deep sense of the marvels he
had seen, but the public only got glowing address and magazine
article or two from him in detail ; Fitzhugh Ludlow created wider
interest by his brilliant but few and disconnected papers in the
"Atlantic Monthly," on special themes in the journey ; and the pen-
cil of his artist-companion, Bierstadt, has caught the glow and the
inspiration and the majesty of some chief natural wonders in these
distant regions, and spread them on immortal canvass, to excite i»
world's wonder and whet a world's curiosity. But only enough had

.ETTER

15 to the people along our
lat we did not come on a
;t governmental service ; to
DCate the Pacific Railroad;

to regulate the politics of
; in mines, and buy corner

the many felt gratified and
ospitality that had no meas-
who could not repress the
:r is not tangible and real
5 passed in not a few minds
m as "bummers,"
lined the subject, that there
mplete account of this great
I had visited it in plenty; i's
>m the East; scholars are
it id claimed as fact that San
graduates, in proportion to
)untry ; but they have go ^c
, and to desc-ibe ; they are
;, have taken little time to
istic fashions of Nature, to
end the varied resources of
le. Starr King had written
)mia scenery; t.. iIcuJWS
:ep sense of the marvels he
ring address and magazine
lugh Ludlow created wider
lisconnected papers in the
1 the journey ; and the pen-
is caught the glow and the
ef natural wonders in these
imortal canvass, to excite ?
)sity. But only enough had

TO SPEAKER COLFAX V

been written, only enough was known of the Nature, of the material
resources, of the social and industrial development of these vast
Plains and Mountains between the Mississippi River and the Pacific
Ocean, to make market for more. So we have open field for our
story, and hungry market for our harvest. So my Letters arc
rescued from the destined oblivion of daily journalism to figure i -
covers.

You will see that they bear substantially their original shape.
Here and there is an addition; here and there, an irrelevant para-
graph is excised ; but they serve better to convey true ideas of the
country we passed through, in preserving the freshness of the orgi-
nal compofi'ion. They are not a *Jiary of a personal journey; nor
a Guide-Uook; nni a HandUook of statistics; but they aim to
give, with compactness and comprehensiveness, the distinctive ex"
perif nces of the Overland Journey; to describe, as vividly as I may,
the various origins' scenery that the route and the country offer; to
portray the social and material developments of the several States
and Territories we visited,— their present and their futur*, their
realization and their capacity; and to develop to the people of the
East and to the Government their share in the interests and hopes
of the West, — what duties thev had to perform, what benefits they
might hope to reap. It was a large field to cover with the travel
and the study of a single sumnier , to see, collate and digest the ma-
terials of half a Continent ; bu j never did travelers find more gener-
ous facilities than we ; and to r/pportunity, such as was never granted
to others, we certainly brought intelligent interest and enthusiasm,
and the trained eyes and ears and the educated instincts of journal-
ism. We certainly brought, too, independence and integrity to our
observation ; and in all essential affairs, our conclusions were sin-
gularly coincident

So we ha- s assumed the responsibility and earned the duty of
Truth-speak \g. And on thos? great, pressing public themes of the
Pacific Railroad, the Mormons, and the Mines, I would have you
bespeak for my revelations and discussions the attentive ear of the

^^i

INTRODUCTORY LETTER

eastern public. Neither Government nor people seem half alive to
the pressing importance of either, The Railroad is, indeed, the
great work of the day ; the great want, the great revealer, the great
creator of this Empire of ours west of the Mississippi. It is cheer-
ing to find that, since we went over the Plains, labor upon the
eastern end of this Koad has had a new impetus ; to learn that new
elements of capital and enterprise have become engaged ; and that
on both the two main branches, from Kansas City and from Umaha,
the Road is worked for sixty miles west of the Missouri, and by
spring will be opened for one hundred. But I find no proper con-
ception in the East of the progress which should and may be
attained in the work. A hundred miles a season seems to be re-
garded as great achievement; whereas the company, that takes
more than two years to cross the Plains and reach the Rocky Moun-
tains, is unworthy its charter, recreant to its generous trusts. There
M no vanity in demanding the completion of the entire line in five
years; what is being done on the Sierra Nevadas proves this;
there is only wanton waste of wealth, only stubborn disregard and
neglect of great national responsibilities in being longer about it.

With regard to the Mormons, too, we all saw that the time had
come for a new departure, for a new policy by the Government.
The conflict of sects and civilization, growing up there in Utah, will
soon solve the polygamous problem, — rightly and without blood-
shed, — if the Government will make itself felt in it with a wise
guardianship, a tender nursing, a firm principle.

I rely on you, also, to enforce my cautions on the subject of
Mining. That great interest is in danger of real injury from
feverish speculation, and false and unwise investments. Of the
wealth of the regions we visited, in gold and silver ore, no adequate
conception can be formed or expressed ; the mind stands amazed
before its revelations ; but it does not lie around loose on the sur-
face of the grc ind, and is not to be exploited in brokers' offices in
Wall Street and "The City." Patient and intelligent labor, in fields
well-chosen for their nearness to markets and to supplies, with

capital ai
success ii
Pacific Ri
in the bu.<
ore. Th<
ble returr
in connec
vided its
integrity,
victim of
try and G

New ar
all our Pa
successful
mining e»
cific but t
Rightly di
growth, gi
that leave
us, who ki
predecess

In Natl
country oi
eminent
the marve
rare effect
as were sf
the moun
scenery e!
through ii
as Puget's
pressive tl
so fine an(
fornia's; i

FTER

TO SPEAKER COLI'AX.

people seem half alive to
Railroad is, indeed, the
great revealer, the great
Mississippi. It is cheer-
Plains, labor upon the
petus ; to learn that new
come engaged ; and that
u City and from Umaha,
of the Missouri, and by
ut I find no proper con-
ich should and may be
season seems to be rc-
he company, that takes
1 reach the Rocky Moun-
I generous trusts. There
of the entire line in five
a Nevadas proves this;
' stubborn disregard and
I being longer about it.
ill saw that the time had
licy by the Government,
ing up there in Utah, will
;htly and without blood-
If felt in it with a wise
iciple.

itions on the subject of
ger of real injury from
se investments. Of the
id silver ore, no adequate
the mind stands amazed
around loose on the sur-
lited in brokers' offices in
intelligent labor, in fields
ts and to supplies, with

capital and skill and integrity, are the inevit.ible laws of great
success in mining. The first neod of our mining regions is the
Pacific Railroad, to equalize prices and enforce morals and system
in the business ; the second is improved processes for working the
ore. These gained, and no interest is likely to make more valua-
ble returns for well-invested capital and labor. A Mining IJureau
in connection with the Government is a desideratum, always pro-
vided its head shall be a man of special intelligence and divine
integrity. A charlatan and a rascal, or one prone to become the
victim of such, would make such an institution a curse to both coun-
try and Government.

New and valuable mineral discoveries are rapidly being made in
all our Pacific .States; the season has been one of industrious and
successful prospecting; ami we are apparently on the eve of a new
mining excitement which shall, this time, take in not only the Pa-
cific but the Atlantic as well, and ,veep over the seas to Europe.
Rightly directed and restrained, this will prove great impetus to our
growth, great source to our wealth ; but it is a whirlwind, after all,
that leaves many a wreck in its passing. And woe be to those of
us, who know the perils of the storm, who have seen the fields of its
predecessors, if we unworthily fan its power 1

In Natural Wonders and Beauties, as in rare gifts of wealth, the
country of our Summer Journey stands out prominent and pre-
eminent Neither the Atlantic States nor Europe offer so much of
the marvelous and the beautiful in Nature ; offer such strange and
rare effects, — such combinations of novelty, beauty and majesty, —
as were spread before us in our ride Across the Continent, through
the mountains, and up and down the valleys. No known river
scenery elsewhere can rival that of the Columbia, as it breaks
through the Continental mountains ; no inland seas charm so keenly
as Puget's Sound; no mountain effects are stranger and more im-
pressive than those the Rocky and the Sierras offer; no atmosphere
so fine and exhilarating, so strange and so compensating as Cali-
fornia's; no forests so stately and so ineihaustible as those pf

INTRODUCTORY LETTER

Washington ; no trees »o majestic and so beautiful as ttje Sc(|UuU
Gigantca ; — aye, and no Vision of Apocalypse so grand, so full of
ikwe, to full of elevation, as the Yo Semite Valley I Does not that
vision,— that week under the shadows of those wonderful rocks,—
by the trickle and the roll of those marvelous water-falls, — stand
out before all other sights, all other memories of this summer,
crowded as it is with various novelty and l)cauty ? The world may
well be challenged to match, in single sweep of eye, such impressive
natural scenery as this. Trofessor VVlllTNKV tells us that higher
domes of rock and deeper chasms are scattered along the Sierras,
farther down the range ; but he also testifies that, in combination
and in detail, in vriety and majesty and beauty of rock formations,
and in accompanying water-falls, there is no rival to, no second
Yo Semite.

There will be many to come after us in this Summer's Journey,
partly inspired by the pleasure of our experience, chiefly incited by
the increased smoothness of the ways. The projecting arms of
the Continental Railway will rapidly shorten the distance at both
ends. Rival and improved stage lines, new and pleasanter stage
routes, surer and better accommodations at the stations, more fre-
qucnt opportunities for rest, all will speedily come, with protection
from the Indians, which Government cannot longer neglect ; and
even another season, I anticipate such facilities for the Overland
Passage, as will invite hundreds where one has heretofore gone, and
make the journey as comfortable and convenient for ladies even, as
it will be safe and Instructive for all. Great as the triumphs of
staging which our experience has witnessed this summer, they are
but the taste and the forerunner of what will be organized and per-
%cted for the overland travel within two years.

But will any of our successors share such welcome, receive such
hospitality, as was ours ? It can hardly be. The thought of it all,
its extent and its unexpectedness, produces a sense of unsatisfying
gratitude. I have done what I could, in these Letters, to repay this
wide-spread kindness? by making the country, its people and its

interests 1

Truth, — n

yet it wen

tures, all i

with a mai

friends an

from bluff

banners y^

River, on i

and Farmt

welcome tt

divine hun

dried their

fading eyes

(Jatc, on th

sailors, wh

and back it

And for '

SrRiNr.riKi
Dtcembtr

UTTER

> beautiful as t1)e Sc(|u<i!;i
ilypsc so grain), so full of
!e Valley I Docs not that
those wonderful rocks, —
vclous water-falls, — stand
icmories of this summer,
Ijcauty ? The world may
:fpof eye, such impressive
TNKY tells us that higher
lattcred along the Sierras,
tifies that, in combination
beauty of rock formations,
is no rival to, no second

n this Summer's Journey,
lericnce, chiefly incited by

The projecting arms of
orten the distance at both
new and pleasanter stage

at the stations, more fre>
dily come, with protection
nnot longer neglect ; and
'acilities for the Overland
le has heretofore gone, and
venient for ladies even, as

Great as the triumphs of
sed this summer, they are
will be organized and per-
years.

uch welcome, receive such
be. The thought of it all,
:es a sense of unsatisfying
these Letters, to repay this
ountry, its people and its

TO SPEAKER COLFAX.

interests better known to the East. They need nothing but the
Truth,— none of tlicni asked us to tell other than the Truth. And
yet it were impossible adequately to represent all the strange fea-
tures, all the rare capacities of this new half of our N.ition. So,
with a margin still .igainst me, let this book go through you to our
friends and benefactors of the Mountains and the I'acific Coast;
from bluff Hen Hollad.iy and his gallant knight, Otis, under whose
banners we ventured out among the Indians from the Missouri
River, on through Saint and Sinner, Gentile and Mormon, Miner
and Farmer, gallant men and ladies fair, who gave us everywhere
welcome to store o." knowledge, to every material comfort, to every
divine humanity of head and heart,— on to our tender friends, who
dried their wet handkerchiefs in the morning breeze bcfdre the
fading eyes of niy wifeless comp.inions, as we swept out the Golden
Gate, on that cool .September d.iy ; farther on, indeed, to the gallant
sailors, who bore us on summer seas down the Continent's side,
and back its mate, to Home I
And for you and I, my friend,—

" When you next do ride abroad.
May I be there to see."

SrRiNnriRLD, Mass.,
Decembtr 15, 1863.

I am, yours, very faithfully,

SAMUEL BOWLES.

Pr£F

But littl

letter to th

then thoug

the public,

■"

work is no\

tiie iron ra

undertakin;

1|_

valed. It I

of the Repi

Travel will

new nature

by the East

every fibre

so unexpecl

;i!

of what lies

;|1

continue to

;l ■

terest and

that the co

1 ' *

mand, the p

it at a lowei

. ■

omitted; ai

■

never be rei

{

place to th(

stiil a guide

Preface to the New Edition.

But little more than three years have gone since, in the prefatory
letter to this book, the author said, — wildly as nearly every reader
then thought,— that the Pacific Railroad could, and, in the ni<me of
the public, demanded that it should, be built within five year» The
work is now complete; and the Continent is spanned and bound by
the iron rails of steam service. It is a work that, in majesty of
undertaking and rapidity of execution. Civilization has never ri-
valed. It opens a new era in the social, intellectual and business life
of the Republic, as well as in the commercial history of the world.
Travel will pass freely back and forth from Atlantic to Pacific ; the
new nature and the new wealth of the West will be eagerly sought
by the East ; and the Nation and its People will be stimulated in
every fibre of thought, feeling and action. These letters, originally
so unexpectedly welcomed as a fresh revelation and faithful portrait
of what lies between the Missouri River and the Pacific Ocaen, still
continue to be bought and read by the public; and as the new in-
terest and increased travel in all that vast and wonderful region,
that the completion of the Railroad creates, promise a fresh de-
mand, the publishers present this new and revised edition, and offer
it at a lower price. Nothing valuable in the first edition has been
omitted; and though most of the experiences here narrated can
never be repeated,— the slow and painful stage travel having given
place to the exhilarating speed of the locomotive,— the volume is
still a guide to what 's best to be seen and experienced in a journey

F i

Xll

PREFACE TO NEW EDITION.

across the Continent, '^ts nature is still the same ; its society has
but little modified ; tl»e problems of I' 'rmonism and mining con-
tinue to have the same provoking yet fascinating interest, — and to
these the book owes its chief vitality and widest attraction. The
author hopes he has done something towards interesting the great
Eastern and Western sections of the Republic in each other; to-
wards joining them together in both the iron and the gold bonds of
the Pacific Railroad ; and, more and deeper, towards their marriage
in feelings of mutual respect and affection, and in the close-holding
ties of an enlightened, broad-spreading .lelf-interest. In their per-
manent union, affectionate rivalry and common growth, rest, to-
day, the richest hope and the firmest faith of Civilization. .
Springfield, Mass., March, i86> .

FROM M

behind
Men o
since—
Historj
over tl
Journe
Indian

FROM TJ
ney thi
—The'
and its
em Car
Hail, ai

THROUGl
tinaouG
ture— 1
the Coi
How w
Red M,
Plains-
ter— Pa
tion ani

THE ROC
among i
ioa— Lo
Hounta

EDITION.

I the same ; its society has
'rmonism and mining con-
iscinating interest, — and to
nd widest attraction. The
wards interesting the great
epublic in each other; to-
: iron and the gold bonds of
per, towards their marriage
}n, and in the close-holding
self-interest. In their per-
common growth, rest, to-
th of Civilization.

Index to Contents.

LETTER I.

PAGE.

FROM MASSACHUSETTS TO THE MISSOURI.— The Railroad Ride
liehind; the Stage Ride before— Spanning the Continent— Vitality of
Men of the West— The Chicago Wigwam five years ago: History
since— Cleveland and Chicago, and their new Life— Atchison and its
History and its Position— Pomeroy and Stringfellow— The Trade
over the Plains— Speaker Colfax and his party for the Overland
Journey— The Indians break the Line— Senator Foster and the
Indian Question— Agriculture in the West— Coach off; Good-bye, . , 1

LETTER II.

FROM THE MISSOURI TO THE PLATTE.— Atchison to Fort Kear-
ney through Kansas and Nebraska— General Connor and no Indians
—The "Galvanized Yankee" Soldiers— How we Rode— The Country
and its Fascinations— The Scenery and the Atmosphere— The Mod-
ern Caravans on the Plains— A Storm of Thunder and Lightning and
Hail, and how we weathered it, lo

LETTER III.

THROUGH THE PLAINS TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS.— A con-
tinuous five days' Stage Ride— The Plains the great National Pas-
ture—The Platte River— Climate and Soil— Natural Highway across
the Continent— A natural Road-bed— Population of the Region-
How we Pared- Prices on the Plains and at Denver— "The noble
Red Man," aud our Preparations for him— Life and Death on the
Plains— The Prairie Dogs and their Companions— The Alkali Wa-
ter—Parting Breakfast with General Connor at Julesburg- His Posi-
tion and History— Reception at Denver, 18

LETTER IV.

THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS AND THEIR GOLD MINES.— A Week
among the Mountain!) and In the Mines— The Switzerland of Amcr-
ioa— Long's Peak and Pike's Peak— Bierstadt's "Storm in the Rocky
Mountains"— Theater of the Gold Development on Clear Creek—

XIV

INDEX TO CONTEN'^S.

Central City, Black Hawk, Nevada— Condition and Prospeets of th«
Business— Mysteries of the Sulphurites— Speculating Companies—
The Gold Production of Colorado— Reports from Idaho and Mon-
tana—The United States the Treasury of the World— Questions of
the Future, *>

LETTER V.
OF PERSONS. NOT THINGS.— Reception in Colorado— Grand Gala
Supper to Mr. Colfax— Pen Portraits of the Party: Mr. Colfax, Gov-
ernor Bross, Mr. Richardson, Mr. Otis— Social Life in the Rocky
Mountains— The Young Men and the Young Women— Ben Holladay
and his Stages— Famous Rides across the Plains 43

LETTER VI.

SUNDAY IN THE MOUNTAINS.- Broad Church in the West-Mr.
"Lo, the poor Indian"— A Day and a Night at Virginia Dale; its
Scenery and its Landlady— Colorado and its People— Movement for
State Government— A Mining Story : General Fitz John Porter, Smith
and Parmelee, Judge Harding— Lack of "Help" in the Homes— The
Blossoming of Eastern Fashions— Lack of Horticulture— Necessity
of Irrigation— Canned Fruits and Vegetables— Prices of Food in Col-
orado and Montana- Vernacular of the Mountains, M

LETTER VII.
PROM DENVER TO SALT LAKE-THROUGH THE ROCKY MOUN-
TAINS.— The Indians in our Path— Robberies and Murders on the
Stage Line— What shall be done with them?— The Quaker Policy
versus General Connor's Policy— Our Escape and our Faith— Wild
Game on the Route; Antelopes, Elk, Trout, Bears, Sage Hens, etc.—
The Desert of the Mountains- The Sage Brush— The Bittor Creek
Country— Through Bridger's Pass to the Pacific Slopes— A Night Ride
over the Pass— The Curious Architecture of Winds and Sands— The
"Church Butte," and its Wonders— Fort Bridger— Arrival at Great
Salt Lake City,

LETTER VIII.
THE WAY INTO tJTAE: RECEPTION BY THE MORMONS.— Ba-
sin of the Great Salt Lake— The Home of the Mormons— Their
Triumphs— Ride among the Wasatch Mountains— Playing Snowball
i among Flowers— Yellow the Favorite Color of Nature— Echo Can-
yon: its Beauties and its Ruins— The Valley of the Jordan— The
City of Salt Lake: its Location and its Promise- Mr. Co'fax's Re-
ception by Soldier and Saint— The Hospitality of the Mormons^
Excursion to Great Salt Lake— Strawberries and a Mormon Harem-
Interview with Brigham Young: How he Looked and Acted— Heber
0. Kimball, Dr. Bemhisel and other Church' Elders— The Anti
Mormons, or Gentiles, and what they are Doing— Death of Governor
Doty "

MORMON
Lake Cit;
Great Sa
of the C<
the Mori
Utah— Tl
Stockton

SALT LAK
of the »
Hot Sulp
their Usi
chants — 1
chant's—
anoe — Br

THE POL'S
Mormoni
Mormc -i
fore thi.
towards
Polygam:
ham You
anew R<
and the I

THE MORI
The Mor
The Chil
Wives — 1
Mormon
by Brighi
fax's Eul
ney and (

SOCIAL Lr
of Polygf
Coat-Tail
good thii
some Wo
The Sole
Young—]
Sandwicl

PA0I.

m and Prospects of thu
>eculating Oompanioa—
from Idaho and Mon-
le World— Questioua of
SO

Colorado — Grand Gala
Party: Mr. Colfax, Gov-
lial Life in the Rocky
Women— Ben Holladay
lains, 43

iroh in the West— Mr.
it at Virginia Bale; its
1 People — Movement for
Fitz John Porter, Smith
Ip" in the Homes— The
Horticulture- Necessity
—Prices of Food in Col-
utains.

I THE KOCKY MOUN-
les and Murders on the
nT— The Quaker Policy
le and our Faith— Wild
Bears, Sage Hens, etc. —
rush— The Bitt«r Creek
fie Slopes— A Night Eide
Winds and Sands— The
ridger— Arrival at Great

THE MOEMONS.— Ba-
)f the Mormons— Their
itains— Playing Snowball
■ of Nature— Echo Can-
ley of the Jordan— The
omise— Mr. Co' fax's Re-
ility of the Mormons^

and a Mormon Harem —
loked and Acted— Heber
rch' Elders— The Anti
ting— Death of Governor

INDEX TO CONTENTS.

LETTER IX.

MSI.

MORMON MATERIALITIES.- Irrigation und its Results— The Salt
Lake City Gardens— Wonderful Crops of Grain— The Mysteries of
Great Salt Lake— Extent of the Mormon Settlements— Navigation
of the Colorado River— Supplies for Utah by that Route— Policy of
the Mormons as to Agriculture and Mines— The Silver Mines in
Utah— The Soldiers at Work on Them— Visit to Rush Valley and
Stockton, 80

LETTER X.

SALT LAKE CITY AND LIFE THERR-The Chief Comraer<!ial City
of the Mountains, Knd the Watering-Place of the Continent— Its
Hot Sulphur Springs, and its Salt Lake: their Characteristics and
their Uses— The Present Status of the City— Profits of its Mer-
chants—Prices of Goods there— Dinner Party at a Mormon Mer-
chant's— Brigham Young's Theater— A Special Dramatic Pe.'forra-
ance— Brigham Young on "a Good Thing," 88

LETTER XI.

THE POLYGAMY QUESTION.— Our Opportunities for Studying the
Mormons— Testimony ft-om all Interests ond Parties— Conclusions —
Mormc oism not necessarily Polygamy— The Latter sure to fall Be-
fore thi. Progress of Democracy— Present Duty of the Government
towards he Question— Most of the Federal Officers In the Territory
Polygamists— An Important Distinction— Conversation with Brig-
ham Young on Polygamy— Poirits of the Discussion— Suggestion of
a new Revelation against Polygamy — Views of Young as to Slavery
and the Rebels— A Sardonic Face, lOS

LETTER XII.

THE MORMON WIVES : OUR LAST DAY IN SALT LAKE CITY.—
The Mormon Women and Polygamy— How they Live Together—
The Children and the Schools- The Soldiers Stealing the Surplus
Wives — Neglect of their Poor by the Morrocis — Character of the
Mormon Church Audiences — Services at the Tabernacle — Preaching
by Brigham Young— Their Religion a Coarse Materialism— Mr. Col-
fax's Eulogy on President Lincoln— Elections in Utah— Judge Kin-
ney and Captain Hooper— Good-Bye to Salt Lake 114

LETTER XIII.

SOCIAL LIFE AMONG THE MORMONS.— The Cross Relationships
of Polygamy— Brigham Young's Wives— Going to Heaven by the
Coat-'Tails of the Men— Wives the Reward of Merit— Polygamy "a
good thing" for Poor Men — Brigham Young's Retinue— No Hand-
some Women among the Mormons — Brigham Young's Children—
The Soldiers and the Mormons— General Connor and Brigham
Young— Porter Rockwell, the Avenger — The Movement towards the
Sandwich Islands 123

XVI

INDEX TO CONTENTS.

LETTER XIV.

PAGE.

THE BIDK THROUGH THE SAGE BUU8H AND THE GREAT
BA8IN.— The Great Desert Basin o:' Utah and Nevada, and its Char-
Bcteristios— A Quick Stage Ride through if? Alkali Dost and over i'»
Mountains— Tlie Ta'nt of the Alkali— £xporienc<:8 of the Ride—
Greeley and Hank Monk— Problems as to tie Culfure of this Re-
gion-Its Redeeming Heauties in Mountains, iu Atmosphere, and in
Exhilarating Breeze, ^ 13;

LETTER XV. •

THE SILVER MINES OP NEVADA: AUSTIN AND VIRGINIA
CITY.— Nevada the Child of California— Austin : its Location ; its
Soaial and Material Development— Classics in a Cellar— The Silver
Mines in and about Austin— Character of the Ore--Mille— Improve-
ments and Expenses— New Mit.ing Discoveries— Virginia and its
History -^nd Mines— The Famous Comstock Ledge— The Gould A
Curry Mine, and its Statistics— Its Superintendent, Mr. Chailes L.
Strong- The Ophir, Savage, Empire, Yellow .lacket, and other
Mines— Cost and Profit of the Virginia Ores— Number of Quartz
Mills on the Comatock Ledge— California's Acconnt with Nevada-
Conclusions as to the Nevada Mines— Advice to Capitalists— A Rhode
Island Example iq Colorado— DoubtfUl Thint,s Vtsry Uncertain—
iYifinity Disooura^ed 141

LETTER XVI.

THE COrriNENT ACROSS.— The Ride over the Sierras— The Great
, Ride Finished— ttill the same Republic, the same Flag— Wonderful
Homogeneity of the American People — The Civilisation of San
Francisco and the Pacific Coast— The Mat«rial Prospects of City and
Country— Th^ Last Day in Nevada— Valleys of the Truckee, V/ashoe,
and Carson— Steamboat Springs — Reception at Carson City— The
Sierra Nevadas and their Beauties— Lake Tahoe — The Stage Ride
over the Mountains ft'om' Lake Tahoe to Placerville— Hard and
Watered Roads and Fast Horses— First Views of California Life, . . ISS

LETTER XVIL

OVERLAND TO OREGON.— A Pleasant Revelation in Oregon— The
Overland Ride f^om California— Up the Sacramento Valley— Chico—
General Bidwell and hii) Farm— Red Blufi^ and the Family of John
Brown— The Trinity, Klamath, Rogue, and Umpqua Rivers— Shasta
andTreka— The Tower House and its Proprietor— Mount Shasta and
its Snow Fields-Jacksonville and its Gold Diggings— Pilot Knob—
The Forests— Pinep and Firs— Oak Groves— The Mistletoe and the
Spanish Moss— Joe Lane and Jesse Applegate— Farming in the Ump-
qua Valley— Entrance to the Willamette Valley— Its Agrioultural
Wealth and its Rural Heauties— The Agriculture of Oregon— The
Rains— The Summers and the Winters— The Townsand the People of
the Willamette Volley— Portland : <U Location and its Importance, , 169

THE COLUl
The Beac
the Contii
eral Grant
Scenery o
bia-A Bi
pared wit
Mount He
of the Un
Rise, Prot
Route to t
and Their

THROUGH
cello by £
ests— Fen
and Rece
Religious
Capabiliti(

PUGETS S(
Market fa
Victoria, 1
tnres— Fn
of the Hi
San Juan 1
Snows— Tl

BAN FRANC
PACIFIC
oomparabl
of the Stei
—His Reci
ican Ques
Rictiardso

THE YOSBK
sions— Th(
World-DI
Valley— W
trom—Via
the Valley
and the T
Experieno
Age: llieii

ENrs.

[V.

PAOP.

I8H AND THE GREAT
ind NeTsdn. and its Ohur-
1 Alkali Dast and over i's
parienccs of the hide—
tVe Culfure of this Ro-
18, !u Atmosphere, and in
1 131

J8TIN AND VIRGINIA
lustin: its Loontion; its
28 in a Cellar— The Silver
;he Ore--Mille— Improve-
Bveries— Virginia and its
>ck Ledge— The Gould A
ntendent, Mr. Charles L.
silow <)acket, and other
3rcs— Number of Quartz
I Aoconnt with Nevada—
Be to Capitalists— A Rhode
'bin^s Very Uncertain —
W

r the Sierras— The Great
le same Flag— Wonderful
The Civilisation of San
rial Prospects of City and
! of the Truckee, V/ashoe,
on at Carson City— The
Tahoe— The Stage Ride

Placerville— Hard and
evrs of California Life, . . let

II.

velalioo in Oregon— The
iramento Valley— Chico—

1 and the Family of John
! Umpqua Rivers— Shasta
rietor— Mount Shasta and

Diftgings — Pilot Knob—
—The Mistletoe and the
te— Farming in the Ump-
Valley— Its Agricultural
culture of Oregon— The
3 Towns and the People of
ion and its Importance, , 169

INDEX TO CONTENTS.

xvu

LETTER XVIII. ,^^

THE COLUMBIA RIVER: ITS SOENEHY AND ITS COMMERCE.—
The Reach ai'd Importance of the Columbia— Its Breach Through I
the Continental Mountains— Fort Vancouver and its Uist'^ry— Gen-
eral Grant as BoraBinborod Here— The Cascades— The Dalles— Hie |
Scenery of Mountain and River— Steamboats on the Upper Colum- t
bia— A Bit of Private Fun— The Scenery uf the Columbia as com-
pared with the Hudson, the Rhine and the Upper Mississippi-
Mount Hood— The Great Mountain of Oregon— The Highest Peaks
of the United States— Tlie Oregon Steam Navigation Company— Its /
Rise, Progressand Purposes— Oregon's Pacific Railroad Cut Ofl— New
Route to the Carrlbou Country— Summing Up of Oregon— Its People
and Their Promise • IM

LETTER XIX.
THROUGH WASHINGTON TERRITORY.-Frora PoHland to Monti-
cello by Steamer— A Rough Road— A Hard Ride through the For-
ests— Ferns, Blackberries and Snakes — Skookem Chuck — Olympia
and Reception thero-^Pacino Tribute to the Stomach— Basis for a
Religious Superstructure — Washington Territory— Its Namefand its
Capabilities, 19S

LETTER XX.
PUGET8 SOUND AND VANCOUVER'S ISLAND.-Great Lumber
Market for the Paciflc Coast— Saw-Mills ard Ships on the Sound-
Victoria, and its English Features— British Taxes and Expendi-
tures— Franer River Gold Diggings— Prosperity of Victoria— Depot
of the Hudson Bay Company— Grand Dinner to Mr. Colfax— The
San Juan Boundary Question— Summer Gardens under the Perpetual
Snows— The Pacific Coast Climate venm that of New England, .... 204

LETTER XXI.
BAN FRANCISCO: MR. COLFAX, AND HIS RECEPTION IN THE
PACIFIC STATES.— Back to Frisco— Its Fascinations and its In-
comparable Climate— The Town always "in the Draft"— The Loss
of the Steamer Brother Jonathan— Speaker Colfax's Tour Complete
—His Reception Describe^ and Analyzed— His Speeches— The Mex-
ican Question— His Speech at Victoria— Governor Bross Mid Mr.
Richardson „ Zts

LETTER XXII.
THE YOSEMITB VALLEY AND THE BIG TREES.— First Impres-
sions— The Great Natural Wonders and Reautins of the Western
World— Distingnishing Features of the Valley— The Verdure of the
Valley— Where the Zebra and Dr. Bellows' Church were Borrowed
from— Various Shapes of the Mountain Rooks— The Wator-fnlls of
the Valley— Thi I Journey to the Yosemite— Cession of the Valley
and the Big Trees to the State of California— Our Part.y and its
Experiences- The Excursion to the Big Trees: their Siite; their
Age: their Beauty: tlieir Migesly, 223

mskm

• ••

XVIU

INDEX TO CONTENTS.

LETTER XXIII. ,^„^
THE CHINESE ON THE P;><J1F1C COAST: OUR GRAND DINNER
WITH THEM.— Number of Chinese Emigriuats— What they Do-
Raising Vegetables— Building the Paclfio Railway— 8ervant8 in
Families and Gleaners in the Coal Fiulds— How the White Hen
Treat them— Their Habits— Their Religion— Their Vices— How they
are to be Reformed- Tho Chinese ver>u$ the Irish and the A'rican
—Chinese Merchants— Their Intelligence and their Honesty— A Din-
ner with them— Specimen of Chiaeso Pigeon-English-How the
Dinner Began, and how It Went On — The Chopsticks, and the
Food— The Writer Rescued by the Police, akd Taken Out to get
"Something to Eat," 238

LETTER XXIV.

THE GREAT THEME: T^IE PACIFIC RAILWAY.-How its Need ii
Felt— Anxiety for its Construction— The Hunger for "Home"- The
Condition and Prospects of the Enterprine— Where Timber and
Fuel are to come from— Routes over the Rocky Mountains— From
Salt Lake to the Sierra Nevadas— What the Government has Done—
What I!i6 People are doing at each End— Lack oi Enterprise and
Progress at the H^t— Superior Zeal and Progress at the West— Rival
Routes over the Sierras- The Wagon Roads and their Business-
Mr. T. D. Judah and his Route for the Railroad— Rapid Progress up
the Mountains— Four Thousand Chinese Laborers at Work— Five
Years Long Rnough to Complete the Whole Line— Appeal »•-. the
Men of the East, -26"

LETTER XXV.
COUNTRY EXCURSIONS. THE GEYSERS, VINEYARDS AND
AGRICUIjTURE.— Tho Valleys of the Coast Range— How California
is Ctnstruotcd— Oakland— Fred Law Olmste-i and Miyor Ralph W.
Kirkham— Tho San Jose Valley and its Be aotiee— Excursion to tho
Geysers— Petaluma— Russian River Valley— Healdsburg— A Rare
Whip and a Rare Drive— The Geysers Themselves— The Embodi-
ment of Hell— The Country in the Neighborhood— Napa Valley—
— Calistoga and Warm Springs— Sonoma Valley and its Vineyards-
California vvic«8- -Champagne '.lie Mother"? Milk in California— Fa-
cilities for Agriculture in California— Illustrative Crops, ...... 274

LETTER XXVI.

OP SAN FRANCISCO : BUSINESS MATTERS.- How San Pra' Cisco
is Located- Its Sand Hills and tho'r Fickleness— Lone Mr jntain
Cemetery— The City Gardens— Contrasts in Business and Social Life-
Character of the Business Men— The Bankers— The Bank of Cali-
fornia—The Wells A Fargo Express and its Varioub Business— How
it Rivals the Government in Carrying Letters— The Machine Shops
and the Woolen Mnnufaclnrors— The Mission Woolen Mills and
their Succos.s with Chinese liahor— Cotton Manufactory and Other
Industrial Enterprises— The Commerce of San Francisco, 288

MINING II
PR08PE(
Processes
Ddep Dig
Latter— T
Dam " am
Valley— 1
in Marip<
I'rospecti
—Mining
fornia— P
Into the (

SOCIAL LI
AND HI!
T!io Sealt
Society ii
linism— 1
Feminini
Rullgion-
ers- Rev
The Com
ciflo Rail
of Califoi

CLIMATE
RENCT
mate foi
Fruits ai
East— Be
Paoifio f
House-]
Question
— The W

THE MINI
Word of
in the F
and Mr. i
Geologic
orado U
Phaiie ol
zona— Li
Gold Fe
Ciilifornl
Growing

ENTS.

^**' PAO*.

UUR GRAND DINNER
granta— What they Do—
Railway— 8ervaDta in
In— How the White Hen
—Their Vices— How they
he Irish and the A'rican
□ d their Honesty— A Din-
igeon-English-How the
'he Chopstlclcs, and the
e. ALd Taken Out to get

238

IV.

LWAY.— How its Need is
[unger for "Home"— The
ino— Where Timber and
Rocky Mountains— From
I Government has Done—
-Lack 01 Enterprise and
ogress at the West— Rival
ids and their Business—
Iroad— Rapid Progress up
Laborers at Work— Five
hole Line — Appeal •■■. the
.28u

CV.

RS, VINEYARDS AND
it Range— How California
ite-f and Miyor Ralph W.
autiep— Excursion to the
sy- Healdsbnrg— A Hare
lemselves— The Embodi-
iborhood— Napa Valley^
alley and its Vineyards—
'f Milk in California-Fa-
itrative Crops, ...... 274

VI.

R8.— How San Fra' .Cisco
kleness— Lone Mr jntain
Business and Social Life —
ikers- The Bank of Cali-
4 Varioub Business— How
ers — The Machine Shops
ssion Woolen Mills and
I Man n factory and Other
' Sau Francisco, S88

INDEX TO CONTENTS.

xix

LETTER XXVII.
MINING IN CALIFORNIA: liB VARIETIES, RESULTS, AND
PROSPECTS.- Present Yield of the Mines of the PaoiHo Stated-
Processes and Progress of Gold Seeking— The Soil Washings, the
Vaep Diggings, and Hydraulic Mining- Great. Enterprises of the
Latter— The Large Results— The Waste of Nature by Mining—*' Yuba
Dam" and its AueoUote— The Quarts Mining and its Status— Grass
Valley- Lola Hontez,and the Horse Milkman— Condition of Mining
in Mariposa County— rhf Fremont Estate Come to Grief— General
Prospects and Condition of Mining in California— The Idaho Mines
—Mining in the Various Sti '. i Compared— The Advantage for Cali-
fornia—Personal Experiences in Visiting Mines— How We Went
Into the Gould A Curry Mine, and Hew We Got Out, 303

LETTER XXVIII.
SOCIAL LIFE IN SAN FRANCISCO: THE WOMEN: RELIGION
AND MINISTERS.— Visit to the Cliff House-The Paoiflo Ocean—
T!iu Seals and the Pelicans— A Ride along the Beach— The Chaos of
Society in San Francisco— Domination of Materialism and Mascu-
liniHm— The Women Savored ».ith it— How the Ladies Dress— A
Feminine Lunch Party— Activity in Public Morals— Education and
Religion— Churches and School-houses— Ambition for Smart Preaoh-
era— Rev. Dr. Wadsworth, Rev. Dr. Scudder, Rev. Mr. Stebbins—
The Country Parishes— Wide Field for Missionary Labor— The Pa-
cific Railroad the Great Missionary of All— Rev. Mr. Stebbins' Views
of California Life,

LETTER XXIX.
CLIMATE AND PRODUCTIONS: COST OF LIVING: THE CUR-
RENCY QUESTION: THE MINT— Advantage of the Paclflo CH-
mate for Invalids— Effects of the Climate upon the Race— The
Fruits and Vegetables of Califoruia, Compared with those of the
East— Beauty ot the California Spring— The Best Time to Visit the
Paoiflo Statts— Comparative Prices of Living— The What Cheer
House— Prices In the Ma. «.ets— Gold and Silver the only Currency-
Question of Introducing Paper Money— The Mint at San Francisco
—The World^) Settling House at San Francisco, 385

LETTER XXX.
THE MINING QUESTIONS AGAIN : GENERAL REVIEW.— A New
Word of Caution to Eastern Capitallsts-Bpeoulators and Swindlers
in the Field— Other Authority for these Views; Professor Whitney
and Mr. Ashbumer— Double Injury of Deception— Importance of the
Geological Survey of California— The Superior Richness of the Col-
orado Gold Mines— New Mining Discoveries in California— Latest
Pha.^e of tlie Comstock Ledge— The Gold and Copper Mines in Ari-
zona—Last News from Idaho— The Oil Fever of the East and the
Gold Fever of the West— The Copper and Quicksilver Mines of
Ciillfornin— The Petrolrnm Rpooulatlon in Cnlifornia— Vineyards
<aCOWiog ou the BupjH>aed Oil Beds, 341

321

INDEX TO CONTENTS.

LETTER XXXI. „g,

THE PAUEWEUi PraTIVlTIES : POLITICS AND HOLlTlCIANfi.—
Tha Tathoa of Partlug— Our Final Vlilt li San Fmnoiaco— A
Orowdad Weok—MagnlHoenl Dinoor Party— Brilliant Kaiewell Ball
and Danquot, with Urthodux Ballas and Hot Beel Tea— Politics of
the Paciflo Stataa— Their Raacua ft'oin H«<ro«ilon' -Theii Affiliation
with tha Union Party— GoTernora Blalsdull, Loweiuid Olliba— 8ena-
tora Htewart and Vonneaa—T. Starr King's oppurtiinlty— UlsSacrud
Fame on the PaolHo Coast— The California ConKressmen— Large
Emigration of Kebaia from MlHsourl to Oregon— Aaeodota of Sena-
tor Neoinith of Orngon— Paciflo Loyalty a Pasaion, and its Intoler-
ance—The Indiana of the Paciflo Statea— The Indian Quoation
Briefly Summed Up— The Slang Phrasea of the Coast- -A Parting
Word for California and her Sister Slates, 8fi8

LETTER XXXII.

THE VOTAOE HOME BY STEAMSHIP AND THE ISTHMUS.—
An Unique SeaTrIp— Your Companions on the Voyage— The Acoom-

* modationa and Food gn the Steamer— The Crowd— The Mixture—
The BabieR— Down the Coast on Smooth Boas and In Sight of Land
—Tropical Weather and its Effisota— Stopping at Acapiiloo— The
Town and Its Mexican Inhabitants- The Evening on Shore— luterriow
with Ooneral Alrarez- Poor Prospects for Mexican Independence —
The Bartering for Frulta'and Shells— Down the Coast Again— Gua-
temala and Its Volcanoes— San Salvador and Nicaragua— Arrival at
Panama— Scenes in the Harbor— Burial of one of our Passengers-
Day Upon the Isthmus — Panama and Its Idiosyncrasies— The Rail-
road Across the Isthmus— The Ride and its Tropical Revelations-
The Natives and their Nudity— Chagres River and the Isthmus
Fever— Aspinwitll and its Barrenness- The Steamship Service on
the Atlantic Side— A Fortunate Run to Now York— The Trip Summed
Up— The Paciflo Mall Steamship Company and Its new Career-
Prices or Passage— The Moral Unhealth of the Crowd on the Steam-
ers— The Summer Journey Ended: Its Limits Reviewed: Its Trl-
umpha Stated: its Results Measured. 870

FROA

A WE

railroad
the Con
Springfi
cago, an
through
post of I
a coach
the proj<
cerville.
Cisco, an
breadth
reunited,
under si
how ma^
uprising
ties and
if the n

ENTS.

^^* fAOI.

»AND K>LITlCIANfi.-
It ii San Fmnoicco— A
'— Brilliiint Ksiewell Hall
lotBeel To»-eolilic«of
i-pHiioD' -Theii Affiliation
i, Lowe luid Oiliba— tlena-

oppurtiiDity— Hii Sacrad
nia GonKreasmen — Large
eKon— Anecdote of Bena-

I'afinion, and ita Intoler-
I— The Indian Quottion

of the Coait--A Parting

SOS

AND THE ISTHMUS.—
the Voyage— The Aooom-
> Crowd— The Mixture—
ona and in Siglit of Land
pping at Acapiiloo— The
ining on Shore — luterriew
ilexican Independence—
n the Coaat Again — Oua-
nd Nicaragua— AniTal at

one of our Passengers —
iiosyncrasieo— The Rail>
A Troi)lcal Revelatiuna —

River and the Isthmus
e Steamship Service on
York— The Trip Summed
ly and ita new Career—
the Crowd on the Steam-
imita Reviewed: Its Trl-

870

.t w rn n ^-^-ft^

LETTER I.
FROM MASSACHUSETTS TO THE MISSOURL

Atchison, Kansas, May ai, 1865.
A WEEK of leisure traveling ends the first or
railroad stage of th"; great overland trip across
the Continent. It is 1,425 miles by railroad from
Springfield to Atchison, via Buflfalo, Cleveland, Chi-
cago, and the Hannibal and St. Joseph Railroad
through northern Missouri. Here, the outmost
post of our eastern railway system, we commence
a coach ride of two thousand miles before we mee
the projecting arm of the California railways at Pla-
cerville. Thence a day takes us down to San Fran-
cisco, and the Continent is spanned, the national
breadth is measured. How this Republic, saved,
reunited, bound together as never before, expands
under such personal passage and footstep tread ; ■
how magnificent its domain ; how far-reaching and
uprising its material, moral and political possibili-
ties and promises! There ''? no such knowledge
'if the nation as comes of ir;.veling it, of seeing

•«^(W

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

eye to eye its vast extent, its various and teeming
wealth, and, above all, its purpose-full people — grow-
ing only greater in personal power and activity as
they grow fewer in numbers. We think our Yan-
kee leaders have active brains and comprehensive
hands ; but the pioneers in the commerce rfnd in
the civilization of the West impress you as men of
broader grasp and more intense vitality. The very
breadth of their field expands them.

It is five years since I was last in the West. Then
I came to attend the Convention that nominated Mr.
Lincoln for President. How long ago that seems !
How dim the almost tragic scenes and excitements
and struggles of the Wigwam! Personal prefer-
ences were lost and won there, life-long ambitions
wrecked, new combinations created, and old ones
shattered, whose significance was little understood
then. What century of other history has held such
revolutions, has wrought such influences on the
present and the future of the world, as these five
years ! What five years of all life, of ours or any-
body's else, would you or I exchange for even our
witness of these ?

We had an afternoon and evening in Cleveland,
and a day in Chicago. I gathered new impressions
of the beauty of the former city. No other place,
East or West, unites such a business street as Su-
perior to such a residence avenue as Euclid. It is
the gem of the western cities. Springfield has sim-
ilar union of business convenience and breadth with
beautiful rural homes; but the scale is smaller—
-•ur Main street is narrower, our Maple and Chest-

nut s

palati;

Chi(

has im

all the

test, a I

St. Lo

strides

There i

ever ha

noticed

served 1

still nee

theticall

ner lots

turns he

philanth

the Norl

from Ne

most ecl(

cxecutiv<

vain ovei

from the

luted Ital

grand So

which led

the army,

processioi

war; and

own nobil

This bo

Kansas ej

,us and tccminK
11 people— firow-
r and activity as
; think our Yan-
:l comprehensive
ommercc itnd in
ss you as men of
itality. The very

I the West. Then

[lat nominated Mr.

g ago that seems !

:s and excitements

Personal prefcr-

iifc-long ambitions

ited, and old ones

ts little understood

story has held such

influences on the

rorld, as these five

ife, of ours or any-

lange for even our

;ning in Cleveland,
;d new impressions
No other place,
,iness street as Su-
le as Euclid. It is
ipringfield has sim-
:e and breadth with

scale is smaller-
Maple and Chest-

CHICAGO AND ATCHISON.

nut shorter and less magnificently studded with
palatial country residences.

Chicago is still great — to all Chicagoians. She
has indeed made herself the commercial center of
all the North-west. Milwaukee gives up the con-
test, and even her own State, to her old rival ; and
St. Louis looks on with envy at the more rapid
stride.s of the metropolis of the free North-west.
There is less building in progress, however, than I
ever have seen before, and fewer new structures are
noticed on the business streets than are usually ob-
served between visits ; though there be sjxjts enough
still needing reconstruction. Chicago is getting es-
thetically ambitious, however ; she talks less of cor-
ner lots and corn and new blocks than of yore ; and
turns her thoughts more to art, to literature and to
philanthropy. Already with the great journal of
the North-west, she is founding another, and draws
from New York, in Mr. Dana, to lead it, one of the
most eclectic of American s* holars, one of the most
executive of American minds. Just now, too, she is
vain over a new and beautiful opera-house — reared
from the profits on alcohol — and a season of undi-
luted Italian opera ; and earnest, moreover, with a
grand Soldiers' Fair. Fitting it is that Chicago,
which led in these monster fairs for the benefit of
the army, should also close their glorious and holy
procession. Their history is a proud chapter in our
war; and in it the American women write their
own nobility and patriotism.

This border town of Atchison is memorable in
Kansas experiences. It was first settled and pos-

4 ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

sessed by border ruffians of the worst type. The fa-
mous Buford Company of South Carolinians made it
head-quarters. Stringfellow was its paterfamilias.
But Mr. Pomeroy, the agent of the New England
Emigrant Aid Company, finally got possession of it
by strategy — he bought up its newspaper and threw
a force of free state men into town during one night,
and thenceforth defied the old settlers. Since then
Pomeroy and Stringfellow have joined hands, bought
up the town as a speculation, and are now growing
rich together by its development and prosperity.
Stringfellow lives here, and has become gentlemanly
and loyal since the war broke out, and Pomeroy is.
United States Senator fi"om Kansas, and also re-
sides here when not in Washington. The town lies
rather incoherently along some broken bluffs on
the west bank of the Missouri River, five hundred ,
miles from St. Louis, about twenty above Leaven-
worth, and the same distance below St. Joseph, the
metropolis of northern Missouri. A railroad runs
along the opposite bank of the river, and gives
communication with St. Joseph and Leavenworth.
Lawrence lies off to the south-west say fifty miles,
Atchison being in fact in the north-eastern corner
of the State. It is now the starting point of the
overland mail for the mining regions and California,
and the head-quarters of the stage company ; also
one of the chief points on the border for the trans-
shipment, from cars and steamboats to wagons, of
goods of all sorts bound to the mines of Colorado,
Idaho, Montana, &c., and the saints of Utah. Ne-
braska City, Omaha. St. Joseph, Leavenworth and

[NENT.

worst type. The fa-
Carolinians made it
IS its paterfamilias.
: the New England
got possession of it
ewspaper and threw
vn during one night,
lettlers. Since then
ioined hands, bought
nd are now growing
lent and prosperity,
become gentlemanly
out, and Pomeroy is.
■Cansas, and also re-
gton. The town lies
le broken bluffs on
River, five hundred ,
^enty above Leaven-
Delow St. Joseph, the
iri. A railroad runs
the river, and gives
)h and Leavenworth,
i-west say fifty miles,
north-eastern corner
starting point of the
jgions and California,
stage company ; also
1 border for the trans-
mboats to wagons, of
le mines of Colorado,
saints of Utah. Ne-
ph, Leavenworth and

FREIGHTING OVERLAND. $

Lawrence are rivals in this great business of freight-
ing to the far West — how great nobody can realize
who iocs not look upon it directly at this the busy
season of the year ; — but Atchison lies best as to the
roads west, being both upon the river, and, through
a great bend in its course, the most western of any
town upon it, in the State or in Missouri, and per-
haps does more of the outfitting and forwarding
than any other one town. Most of the goods are
only sent through the town, being bought by the
shippers or territorial merchants in Philadelphia,
New York, St. Louis and Chicago ; yet a single firm
here, in a modest building, is selling one million
dollars yearly to small traders, or to fill up forgotten
places in large trains. Long trains of heavily
loaded wagons, drawn by mules and oxen, are mov-
ing out daily, now ; but immense warehouses and
large yards are still stored full with massive ma-
chinery for working the mines, and goods for feed-
ing and clothing the miners, and agricultural imple-
ments to cultivate the prairies, waiting for their
turn. The mule trains have been in progress for a
month, but the ox-teams have had to wait till now,
so that the animals could be fed on the grass en
route. The Indians made such havoc last year that
food for man or beast has been very scarce on the
road across the Plains all the winter and spring ; the
Overland Stage and Mail Company has been very
much crippled thereby; and the grain that it is now-
feeding out to its horses on the road has cost it, in
purchase and transportation, something like eight
dollars a bushel, or eight and ten cents a pound !
I*

'^IT'"'^

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

Speaker Colfax and his friends are gathered here
for their long and inviting yet rather rough journey
to the Pacific Coast. The party embraces the
Speaker, Lieutenant-Governor Bross of Illinois,
senior editor of the Chicago Tribun^, Mr. Albert
D. Richardson of the New York Tribune, and my-
self. Mr. George K. Otis of New York, special
agent of the Overland Stage Line, accompanies us ;
and we have laid in every possible mitigation of the
fatigues and discomforts of the long ride. There
are rifles and revolvers for Indians and game ; sar-
dines for those who cannot digest bacon ; segars for
the smoking Speaker ; black tea for the nervous
newspaper men ; crackers for those fastidious stom-
achs that reject saleratus biscuit ; and soap for those
so aristocratic as to insist on washing themselves en

route.

Something of fillip is given to our ride by the
overland stage from the West, due yesterday noon,
coming in only this morning, and with the news
that it had been attacked by the Indians about one
hundred and forty miles back, or some half way to
Fort Kearney. It is the first raid of the red-skins
this season ; and so thorough precautions had been
made by General Connor, who has charge of the
troops along the route, that it was believed there
would be no trouble ; the stages had assumed their
old certainty and regularity, came in here every day
'within half an hour of the schedule time, and left
precisely at eight every morning, and timed their
arrivals at the stations along the route so certainly
that the keepers had the meals all cooked and warm

rENT.

are gathered here
;her rough journey
Tty embraces the
Bross of Illinois,
ribun^, Mr. Albert
: Tribune, and my-
slew York, special
e, accompanies us ;
le mitigation of the
long ride. There
,ns and game ; sar-
t bacon ; segars for
ea for the nervous
ose fastidious stom-
; and soap for those
ihing themselves en

to our ride by the
iue yesterday noon,
and with the news
; Indians about one
jr some half way to
aid of the red-skins
recautions had been
( has charge of the
was believed there
s had assumed their
ne in here every day
edule time, and left
ng, and timed their
le route so certainly
all cooked and warm

INDIANS ON OUR TRACK.

as the stages drove up, all the way from here to Salt
Lake City. But to-day's news shows that some of
the Tndians had broken through oi; run around the
military lines. They commenced by ambushing a
party of some twelve to twenty soldiers, mostly con-
verted rebels, on their way up from Leavenworth
to Fort Kearney, but without arms. Two of these
they killed outright, and most of the rest they
wounded so savagely that they will probably die.
The next day they assaulted the incoming stage,
which had some six or eight passengers, men, wo-
men and children, circling around and around the
vehicle on well-mounted horses, and shooting their
arrows fast and sharp— only one had a musket, and
another a pistol — at horses and passengers. The
horses were whipped up. the men on the coach had
two rifles and kept them in play, and thus the In-
dians were held at bay until the protection of a sta-
tion and a train was secured, when the attacking
party, finding themselves baffled, retired. They
numbered about twenty-five in all, and their appear-
ance on what was supposed to be the safest part of
the route, and the one least protected by soldiers,
has made some excitement.

Senator Foster of Connecticut, (Vice-president,
ex-officio) and Senator Doolittle of Wisconsin, have
just started south-west on an expedition to Santa
Fe in New Mexico. They take a body guard of
over one hundred cavalrymen, and will sweep around,
through Colorado, across the Overland Route to the
upper Missouri, and come down through Nebraska.
The two Senators are a part of a joint committee

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

of Congress to visit all our Indian territories, ex'
amine into the condition of the Indians and their
relations to the whites, and report facts and sug-
gestions, with a view to a more intelligent and ef-
fective Indian policy. This is the occasion of their
journey, the section they are visiting being their
allotted space of the committee's work. It is an
important, and, it is to be hoped, will prove a be-
neficent mission, that is thus undertaken. Who-
ever shall discover and cause to be put in practice
a policy towards our Indian tribes, that shall secure
protection alike to them and the whites, and stop
indiscriminate massacre on both sides, will prove
the greatest of national benefactors. But the al-
most universal testimony of the border men is that
there can be no terms made with the Indians — the
only wise policy, they aver, is extermination. This
is dreadful if true ; and I cannot believe it. The
Indians have great provocation for their bad faith
and their massacres in our own bad faith to them,
in the systematic manner they have been plundered
and cheated and every way abused by officers of
the government, and the coarsest of the border
men. But if the policy of extermination is the
only possible one, the sooner it is adopted, and car-
ried out, the better. It is cruelty to all parties, it
is loss to people and nation, to let affairs drift along
in the present way, exposing settlers and travelers
to unexpected assaults and robbery, and interrupt-
ing the course of the subjugation and civilization
of the continent.

The season lags, and plowing and planting are

NENT.

Jian territories, ex'
Indians and their
)ort facts and sug-
intelligent and ef-
he occasion of their
visiting being their
e's work. It is an
;d, will prove a be-
undertaken. Who-

be put in practice
es, that shall secure
he whites, and stop
th sides, will prove
Lctors. But the al-
; border men is that
th the Indians — the
{termination. This
lot believe it. The

1 for their bad faith
1 bad faith to them,
lave been plundered
Dused by officers of
rsest of the border
xtermination is the
is adopted, and car-

elty to all parties, it
[et affairs drift along
ettlers and travelers
bery, and interrupt-
tion and civilization

ng and planting are

THE STAGE STARTS : GOOD-BYE.

great^ belated in the West. There is evident lack
of labor and nature kindly prolongs the spring-
time. A few fields of com are up ; but more stm
are yet bemg plowed. A steam plow, cheap, simple,
but effective. ,s still the great need of our western
agriculture, for plowing is its greatest, most wear-
ing, most delaying burden. The other labor-saving
machines are in use to an extent that would amaze
New England farmers -planters, mowers, reap-
ers ;_you see them by the dozens in every little
village, and they are the prominent feature of freight
at the depots all along the railroads. The " Buck-
eye " is the favorite mower and reaper out here
The caterpillars are ruining the orchards along our
route through Illinois and Missouri as painfully as
at the East, and the farmers seem as indifferent to
their ravages. It is a sad sight-a thrifty young
orchard of apples, otherwise, with half its trees
stripped of all life by these pests, and the rest
going in the same direction.

But the overiand coach waits; General Connor
has taken command of our party; and so, dear
friends all, we sail out into this vast ocean of land.

-Z 1^?,°^ ^°" "^'^^ ^""^^y J°y' ^"d, possibly
with selfish longing, with every pain. Do you

think of me when the June roses open, with the

dew of July mornings, with the fragrant cool of an

August evening shower, when the katy-dids sing in

September; and. God willing, I shall be with you

again ere the maples redden in October.

.«■*"

r-^Ji,

^^--

LETTER II.

FROM THE MISSOURI TO THE PLATTE.

Fort Kearney, Neb. »ska. May 24.
A TRIFLE short of two days has borne us two
hundred and fifty miles, riding night and day, to this
point, which is the junction of the Omaha. Nebraska
City and Atchison roads for the grand central Over-
land Route to Colorado and Utah and the Pacific Ter-
ritories. Our road lay through the northern counties
of Kansas and the southern of Nebraska; across
the valleys of the Big and Little Sandy and the
Big and Little Blue rivers ; and here we strike the
Platte River, up which and its southern branch we
continue till we reach Denver. We came through
the region of the Indian surprises and attacks of
last week, but met no hostile red-skin. We found
abundant evidences, however, of their last year's
swoop through the line, in ruins of houses and
barns which they then burned, and stories of their
terrible massacres. General Connor and his aid,
Captain Jewett, are riding out with us on their way
to Julesburg, the General's head-quarters, two hund-
red miles farther west; and through the exposed
parts of the line we had, as all the stages now have.

j»-

[I.

THE PLATTE.
!IEY, Neb. «ska. May 24.

3 has borne us two
light and day, to this
le Omaha. Nebraska
grand central Over-
1 and the Pacific Ter-
he northern counties
)f Nebraska; across
,ittle Sandy and the
d here we strike the
southern branch we
We came through
irises and attacks of
red-skin. We found
, of their last year's
ruins of houses and
, and stories of their
Connor and his aid,
with us on their way
,d-quarters, two hund-
through the exposed
i the stages now have.

"GALVANIZED YANKEES." i|

a guard of two to four cavalrymen. A few soldiers,
with a half-dozen cool and well-armed passengers,'
are always enough to frighten off or drive away
any number of I^idians less than a hundred. The
red-skin fights shy, and only attacks where he i.s
sure of little or no resistance; and he is despised,
as a foe, by all the military men and old stagers
along the Plains. But the necessity of keeping up
steady mail and travel communication through this
region, and of protecting the immense traffic in
provisions, goods and machinery now in progress
between the East and far West, enforces upon the
government the duty of placing a strong military
force all along the various leading roads, and then
of sending out troops enough to drive the Indians
to the far North and South, and keeping them there,
or else of wholly exterminating them.

Among the present limited number of troops on
the Plain are two regiments of infantry, all from the
rebel army. They have cheerfully re-enlisted into
the federal service, We passed one of these regi-
ments on the road yesterday, it having just come
upon the line. They were all young but hardy
lookmg men ; and the Colonel, who is of course
irom the old federal army, testified heartily to their
subordination and sympathy with their new service.
They are known in the army as "whitewashed
rebs," or as they call themselves, "galvanized Yan-
kees."

Aside from the Indian question—which, indeed,
gave only a pleasant zest to our progress, and taught
us novices at which end to hold our pistols and

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

iL.

rifles,— we have had a most delightful ride so far.
The weather has been clear and warm ; the com-
pany intelligent and good natured; the food at
the meal stations more excellent than that of the
hotels and restaurants on the railroads west of Chi-
cago : the country and its scenes most novel and
inspiring. We d'-ove at an average of six miles an
hour, including all stops, sometimes making full
ten miles an hour on the road, in an easy and com-
modious new Cdhcord stage, such as are in use all
through this route, and with horses as sprightly and
in as good condition as you ever rode after in the
good old days of staging in the Connecticut River
valley. Every ten or twelve miles we come to a sta-
tion, sometimes in a village of log and turf cabins,
but oftener solitary and alone, where we change
horses ; and every two or three stations, we change
drivers; but except for meals, for which half an
hour is allowed, our stops do not exceed five min-
utes each.

The country up to fifty miles of this point,
presents the characteristics of the finest prairie
scener}' of the West — illimitable stretches of ex-
quisite green surface, rolling like long waves of the
sea, and broken at distances of miles by an inter-
vale with a small stream, along whose banks are
scattered trees of elm and cotton-wood. Here and
there is a "ranch" or farm with cultivated land, but
these grow rarer and rarer— the uniform view is one
wide rolling prairie, freshly green, spreading out as
far as the eye can reach, with the distant fringe of
thin forest by the water-course, and sending forth

an
th(
we

de(

oui

the

da'

thi

V\i

Pr:

str

bul

roi

de(

for

gre

thr

rie

ver

the

in '.

bol

wic

ace

loo

eye

pas

lop

"'^T^'

NENT.

LIFE ON THE PLAINS.

ightful ride so far.
id warm ; the com-
ured; the food at
nt than that of the
ilroads west of Chi-
cs most novel and
•age of six miles an
etimes making full
n an easy and com-
ich as are in use all
ses as sprightly and
er rode after in the
; Connecticut River
es we come to a sta-
log and turf cabins,
, where we change
stations, we change
, for which half an
ot exceed five min-

liles of this point,
>f the finest prairie
ble stretches of ex-
Ice long waves of the
f miles by an inter-
ig whose banks are
on-wood. Here and
I cultivated land, but
e uniform view is one
;en, spreading out as
the distant fringe of
e, and sending forth

and receiving the sun at morning and evening, as
tiie ocean seems to discharge and accept it when
we travel its trackless space.

No land could be richer; no sight could more
deeply impress you with the measureless extent of
our country, and its unimproved capacities, than
that which has been steadily before us for these two
days. Within the last fifty miles, the soil grows
thinner, the grass less rich, the sand hills of the
Platte rise before the eye, and Plain, rather than
Prairie, becomes the true descriptive name. The
streams are few and scant, and the water muddy;
but wells give good drinking water all along the
route, though oftentimes they have to be sunk as
deep as fifty or seventy-five feet. It is too early yet
for many of the prairie flowers ; but the rich, fresh
green of the grass satisfies the eye. Scattered
through it we catch frequent glimpses of the prai-
rie hen, multiplying for the hunter's harvest in No-
vember ; from its bare, last year's stalks floats out
the liquid music of the larks ; the plover, paired as
in Paradise, and never divorced even in this west-
ern country of easy virtue and cheap legislation,
bob up and down their long necks, or flutter their
wide wings in flight at every rod ; little blackbirds
accompany you in great shoals ; a lean, hungry-
looking wolf steals along at a distance with one
eye on you, and the other on the carcass of a horse
or px, dropped in sickness or fatigue from some
passing train ; away off near the horizon scamper
most daintily and provokingly a half-dozen ante-
lopes — too near for restful palates, too far for wait-

ACROSS THE CONTINENT,

ing rifles ; and over all and illuminatinjif all floats
an atmosphere so pure, so rare, so ethereal, as pic-
tures every object with a pre-Raphaclite distinct-
ness, makes distant things appear near, and sends
the horizon far away in an unbounded stretch of
slightly rounding green earth. Add to these a con-
stant breeze, tempering the sun to a most grateful
softness, and bearing an inspiring tonic to lungs
and heart ; sunsets and sunrises that rival Italy or
the Connecticut valley; a twilight prolonged as in
England ; and a dryness arid purity to the atmos-
phere, that you certainly know not in New England,
and guards the most exposed against colds, — and
you may form some idea of the life of our senses
and sensibilities so far on this excursion.

But I omit one great feature in the constant land-
scape — the long trains of wagons and carts, with
their teams of mules and oxen, passing to and fro
on the road, going in empty, coming out laden with
com for man and beast, with machinery for the
mining regions, with clothing, food and luxuries for
the accumulating populations of Colorado, Utah
and Montana, — for all these territories and the in-
termediate populations draw their supplies from this
quarter, and not from the California shore. The
wagons are covered with white cloth ; each is drawn
by four to six pairs of mules or oxen ; and the trains
of them stretch frequently from one-quarter to one-
third of a mile each. As they move along in the
distance, they remind one of the caravans described
in the Bible and other Eastern books. Turned out
of the road on the green prairie, for afternoon rest

or
cir
tec
to
for
the
am
im]
fon
ent
mo
Inc
of;
ma
the
spc
fift«
twc
pra
ani:
in t
the
int(
1
so ;
and
oral
veri
It i
and
Fin
int

>IENT.

minatin;^ all floats
so ethereal, as pic-
aphaelite distinct-
ar near, and sends
ounded stretch of
\dd to these a con-
to a most grateful
ng tonic to lungs

that rival Italy or
it prolonged as in
irity to the atmos-
it in New England,
gainst colds, — and

life of our senses
ccursion.

the constant land-
ns and carts, with
passing to and fro
ling out laden with
machinery for the
od and luxuries for
if Colorado, Utah
'itories and the in-
r supplies from this
fornia shore. The
oth ; each is drawn
ten ; and the trains
one-quarter to one-
move along in the
caravans described
looks. Turned out
, for afternoon rest

A STORM ON THE PLAINS.

or a night's repose, the wagons drawn around in a
circle, as a sort of barricade against Indians or pro-
tection against storm, and the animals turned loose
to feed, and wandering over the rounding prairie
for a mile— "cattle upon a thousand hills ;" at night
their camp fires burning ; — in any position, or under
any aspect, they present a picture most unique and
impressive, indeed. I have seen nothing like it be-
fore ; and it summons up many a memory of ori-
ental reading. Just now, these trains are moving
more compactly than usual, for protection agrniist
Indian attacks; but their numbers and the am( imt
of goods they are hauling, give you an idea of the
magnitude and importance of the commerce across
these Plains, that neither bare figures, nor parts of
speech can impart. The mule trains make from
fifteen to twenty miles a day ; and. the oxen about
twelve to fifteen. They depend entirely upon the
prairies for food as they go along ; and indeed the
animals grow stronger and fatter as they move on
in their summer campaign of work, coming out of
their winter rest poor and scrawny, and going back
into it in the fall, fat and hearty.

The chief sensation and experience of our ride
so far was a storm of thunder and lightning, hail
and rain, upon the Plains. Such storms are mem-
orable in all travel or life in this country for se-
verity ; and we had one of the very best of them.
It struck us this morning, about six n.iles back,
and just as we had come to the banks of the Platte.
First came huge, rolling, ponderous masses of cloud
in the west, massing up and separating into sections

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

in a more majestic and threatening style than our
party ha'l ever before seen in the heavens. Then
followed a tornado of wind. Horses, coach and es-
cort turned their backs to the breeze, and bendinjj,
awaited its passing. It stripped us of every loose
bit of baggage ; and we sent out scouts for their
recovery. Next fell the hail, pouring as swift rain,
and as large and heavy as bullets. The horses
quailed before its terrible pain. Our splendid quar-
tette of blacks careered and started over the prai-
rie ; we tumbled out of the coach to save ourselves
one peril, and so met the other — the fire of the
heavenly hail; it bit like wasps, it stunned like
blows. But horses and coach were to be saved;
and after a long struggle, in which the coach came
near overturning, and the horses to running away,
in dismay and fright, and our driver and military
friends proved themselves real heroes, and every-
body got wet, the hail subsided into a pouring rain,
the horses were quieted and restored to their places,
and we got into a drowned coach, ourselves like
drowned rats, and hastened to refuge, over a prairie
flooded with water, in this hospitable station. We
are remaining here a few hours to dry our clothes
and baggage, receive and send dispatches, see the
quarters of the military establishment, over which
Colonel Livingston presides, and put ourselves in
order for another two days' ride to Julesburg, half
way to our first grand destination at Denver.

Speaker Colfax is receiving every attention pos-
sible from such people as there are along this line ;
everybody seems to kpow him — many to be his old

per
anc
eve
cial
ing
goo
enj(
but
be I
nig]

'itl'S' "

NENT.

linfj style than our
ic heavens. Then
jrses, coach and es-
reezc, and bendinjj,
d us of every loose
ut scouts for their
airing as swift rain,
llcts. The horses
Our splendid quar-
irted over the prai-
h to save ourselves
:r — the fire of the
ps, it stunned like
were to be saved ;
ich the coach came
:s to running away,
Iriver and military
heroes, and every-
into a pouring ruin,
ored to their places,
ach, ourselves like
;fuge, over a prairie
table station. We
to dry our clothes
dispatches, see the
ihment, over which
id put ourselves in
to Julesburg, half
»n at Denver,
very attention pos-
are along this line ;
-many to be his old

THE GRAND RIDE A TRIUMPH.

«7

personal friends in Indiana; the stage proprietors
and their agents are extending to him and his party
every hospitality and courtesy ; and the military offi-
cials only such protection as they are now accord-
ing to all passengers, and such politeness as their
good breeding is sure to suggest. For myself, I
enjoy the grand ride much better than I expected ;
but foi* the remaining twinges of sciatica, it would
be unalloyed pleasure ; and the anticipated sleepless
night rides prove but small inconvenience.

LETTER in.

THROUGH THE PLAINS TO THE MOUNTAINS.

Denver, Colorado, May 29.

Our coach rolled into this town, t> j leading one
of Colorado Territory, and lying under the very
shadow of the Rocky Mountains, on Saturday noon,
exactly "on time," and in less than five days from
the Missouri River. It was a magnificent, uninter-
rupted stage ride of six hundred and fifty miles,
much more endurable in its discomforts, much more
exhilarating in its novelties, than I had anticipated.
From Fort Kearney, where we struck the Platte
River, and finished the first third of the diitance,
we found the soil growing thinner and thinner ; the
sand hills rose and rolled away in regular serial
form, north and south ; and we passed on to and
through the great Central Desert of the Continent,
stretching from the far distant north to the Gulf
of Mexico, and separating by four hundred miles
of almost uninhabitable space the agriculturally
rich prairies of the Mississippi valley,.from the min-
erally rich slopes and valleys of the Rocky Moun-
tains. Yet not a desert, as such is commonly in-
terpreted — not worthless, by any means. The soil

THE SOIL OF THE PLAINS.

III.

THE MOUNTAINS.

^YER, Colorado, May 29.

own, V- J leading one
ying under the very
IS, on Saturday noon,
, than five days from
magnificent, uninter-
dred and fifty miles,
(comforts, much more
lan I had anticipated,
ve struck the Platte
;hird of the distance,
iner and thinner ; the
ivay in regular serial
ive passed on to and
sert of the Continent,
nt north to the Gulf
r four hundred miles
ce the agriculturally
i valley,. from the min-
of the Rocky Moun-
juch is commonly in-
any means. The soil

is fa*, indeed, compared with your New England
pine plains. It yields a coarse and thin grass that,
green or dry, makes the best food for cattle that the
Continent offers. It is, indeed, the great Pasture of
the nation. This is its present use and its future
profit. Now it supports the machinery of the com-
merce of the two great wings of the nation, that it
both separates and connects. Then — when rail-
road shall supersede cattle and mules — it will feed
us with beef and mutton, and give wool and leather
immeasurable. Let us, then, not despise the Plains ;
but turn their capacities to best account.

The Platte is a broad, shallow but swift river, fur-
nishing abundant good water for drinking and for
limited irrigation, but offering no possibilities of
navigation — not even for ferriage. When it is too
swift and strong for fording, if must be let alone,
and a route on either shore kept, or the falling wa-
ters waited for. The soil of the valley and of the
Plains, which it crosses, is not by any means mere
sand, but rather a tough, cold, sandy loam, with an
admixture of clay. It is too cold and dry for corn
and vegetables. Wheat and barley may be raised
on its best acres, with the help sometimes of a sim-
ple irrigation ; but the pasture is its manifest des-
tiny and use. There is a steady, imperceptible rise
from the Missouri to the Rocky Mountains ; half
way, we get above the dew-falling point ; and here
at Denver, at the base of the mountains, we are five
thousand feet above the level of the sea. The days
are warm, however; the sun pours down over its
shadeless level with a hot, br.rning power; but a

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

cool wind tempers its bitterness, and at night the
air is absolutely cold This is the universal rule of
ail our western countiy, beyond the Mississippi val-
ley, and distinguishes the summers of its whole ex-
tent from those of the East.

This valley of the Platte, through these Plains,
is the natural highway across the Continent. Other
valleys and routes have similar advantages, but in
minor degree : this unites the most ; for it is cen-
tral — it is on the line of our great cities and our
great industries. East and West, and it is the long-
est, most continuous. A smooth, hard stage road
is made by simply driving over it ; a railroad awaits
only sleepers and rails. Here and there, at rare in-
tervals, is a gully or dry creek or petty stream to
cross ; but this, the longest and best stage road in
the world, has not to-day a quarter of a mile of
simplest bridging; and a railroad of six hundred
and fifty miles would not need a mile. There is an
occasional stretch of heavy sand ; aft ;r a rain also
of temporary mud ; but at this season of the year a
speed of ten miles an hour could easily be attained
by horses, with proper relays and a light load,
throughout the whole distance. This would redi'.ce
the transit to three days ; but with ponderous mails,
a Hfeavy coach, and six to fourteen passengers, the
five days occupied in the journey constitutes a great
triumph of stage management and horse-flesh ca-
pacity.

The region is substantially uninhabitable ; every
ten or fifteen miles is a stable of the stage proprie-
tor, and every other ten or fifteen miles an eating-

hou!
hou!
trail
one
and
milii
Stat
Thi}
The
pilec
with
best
itar)
hors
thicl
with
clotl
only
spoc
ican
a"c
and
O
gooc

eggs

and

casii

nish

sam(

guis

dolh

tioni

tTINENT.

ess, and at night the
> the universal rule of
id the Mississippi val-
imers of its whole ex-
through these Plains,
:he Continent. Other
ar advantages, but in
e most ; for it is cen-
great cities and our
:st, and it is the long-
ooth, hard stage road
T it ; a railroad awaits
; and there, at rare in-
;k or petty stream to
nd best stage road in
quarter of a mile of
Iroad of six hundred
i a mile. There is an
a,nd ; aft )r a rain also
s season of the year a
>uld easily be attained
ys and a light load,
2. This would redi'.ce
with ponderous mails,
irteen passengers, the
ley constitutes a great
It and horse-flesh ca-

uninhabitable ; every
: of the stage proprie-
fteen miles an eating-

WHAT WE HAD TO EAT.

house; perhaps as often a petty ranch or farm-
house, whose owner lives by selling hay to the
trains of emigrants or freighters; every fifty or
one hundred miles you will find a small grocery
and blacksmith shop; and about as frequently is a
military station with a company or two of United
States troops for protection against the Indians.
This makes up all the civilization of the Plains.
The barns and houses are of logs or prairie turf,
piled up layer on layer, and smeared over or between
with a clayey mud. The turf and mud make the
best houses, and the same material is used for mil-
itary forts and for fences around the cattle and
horse yards. Their roofs, where covered, are a foot
thickness of turfs, sand, clay, and logs or twigs,
with an occasional inside lining of skins or thick
cloth. Floors are oftenest such as nature offers
only ; and, as at some of the Washington hotels, the
spoons at the table do not always go around. Mex-
ican terms prevail : an inclosure for animals is called
a "corral ;" a house of turf and mud is of "adobe;"
and a farm-house or farm a " ranch."

Our meals at the stage stations continued very
good throughout the ride ; the staples were bacon,
eggs, hot biscuit, green tea and coffee ; dried peaches
and apples, and pies were as uniform ; beef was oc-
casional, and canned fruits and vegetables were fur-
nished at least half of the time. Each meal was the
same ; breakfast, dinner and supper were undistin-
guishable save by the hour ; and the price was one
dollar or one dollar and a half each. The devasta-
tions of the Indians last summer and fall, and the

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

ili

fear of their repetition, form the occasion and excuse
for enormous prices for everything now upon the
Plains and in the Territories on this side the moun-
tains. Twenty-five cents a pound has been charged
the past year for transporting any sort of goods.
The government and the stage company have paid
ten and twelve dollars a bushel for corn, all of which
has to be brought up from the Missouri and Missis-
sippi valleys, and from seventy-five to one hund-
red dollars a ton for hay. But General Connor
means to emancipate himself from the hay specu-
lators hereafter ; he has bought twenty-five mowing
machines, which are to be distributed among the
military stations, and used by the soldiers upon the
generous common grass of the river bottoms for
gathering a winter supply of hay. The stage com-
pany is also pursuing the same policy. Wood costs
on the Plains seventy-five dollars a cord, so distant
are the thin forests that furnish it ; lumber, when it
is used at all, which is rarely, for it must be freighted
from one end or the other of the route, one hundred
and fifty to two hundred dollars a thousand; a
wagon and team of oxen (five pairs) twenty to
twenty-five dollars a day ; common labor two and
three dollars a day and board. And at Denver,
the end of the route, here is a specimen of the prices
to-day : potatoes twenty-five cents a pound or fifteen
dollars a bushel ; flour fifteen and twenty cents a
pound ; corn eighteen cents a pound or ten dollars
a bushel; mechanics and laborers eight and ten
dollars a day ; beef forty cents a pound, and hams
forty-five to fifty cents ; girls as house servants ten

doll
doM
son
trar
freij
infli

1
exp
botl
perl
hea
soni
sho
of \
like
gall
pist
for
fens
way
bre<
easi
of c
vale

A
ante
broi
and
mor
bee:
roac
of c

TINENT.

SCENES BY THE KOAOSIDE.

; occasion and excuse
thing now upon the
1 this side the moun-
ind has been charged
; any sort of goods.
i company have paid
for corn, all of which
Missouri and Missis-
ty-five to one hund-
3ut General Connor
from the hay specu-
t twenty-five mowing
stributed among the
the soldiers upon the
he river bottoms for
lay. The stage corn-
policy. Wood costs
ars a cord, so distant
li it ; lumber, when it
ir it must be freighted
le route, one hundred
liars a thousand; a
ve pairs) twenty to
nmon labor two and
i. And at Denver,
pecimen of the prices
nts a pound or fifteen
I and twenty cents a
pound or ten dollars
lorers eight and ten
i a pound, and hams
is house servants ten

dollars a week. These rates are likely to be cut
down one third or one half during the present sea-
son, however, as General Connor gives security to
transportation across the Plains, and competition in
freighting and merchandising works its legitimate
influences.

The ride from Fort Kearney gave us but few new
experiences. The "noble red man" disappointed
both fear and hope. He gave us a wide berth;
perhaps he had intuitive knowledge of our • "ave
hearts and our innumerable Colts', Smith & Wes-
sons', Remingtons', Ballards', and double-barreled
shot-guns — certainly we bristled with the munitions
of war like a fortification prepared for assault ; more
likely he saw the four cavalrymen that constantly
galloped by our side from station to station, with
pistols at holsters and rifles slung in the saddles, —
for bloodthirsty as our red brethren are, when de-
fenseless men or women or children come in their
way, they have a holy hoVror of well-armed soldiers,
breech-loading rifles, and magazine pistols. They
easily learn and most faithfully practise the maxim
of civilization, that discretion is the better part of
valor.

Animal and vegetable life, too, grew scantier ; the
antelope eluded all rifle shot ; only a prairie hen was
brought down; we were too early for the buffalo,
and not one crossed our path : as the Plains grew
more barren, the prickly pear and the sage bush
became plenty in their tough unfruitfulness ; the
road was marked more frequently with the carcasses
of oxen and horses — scarcely ever were we out of

H |l» »"ti» » n

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

t .

it:

sight of their bleaching bones ; occasionally the pa-
thos of a human grave gave a deeper touch to our
thoughts of death upon the Plains, deepened, toe,
by the knowledge that the wolf would soon violate
its sanctity, and scatter the sacred bones of father,
mother or child over the waste prairie ; — the wiser
instinct of the Indian showed itself, once in a while,
in the sepulture of their kindred above ground —
for, rolling his dead in a blanket, he places the body
in mid-air between two forked poles, six or eight
feet high, and so, if not poised for an upward flight,
at least safe from vulture profanation ; — and anon we
grew gay over the lively little prairie dogs, looking
half rat and half squirrel, as they scampered through
the grass or dove, with a low, chirruping bark, back
into their holes. These animals are smaller and
more contemptible than I had expected ; their holes,
marked by a hillock of sand, are congregated in
vill; 'es, sometimes extending a quarter or half a
mile «.iong the roadside. Only a pair occupy each
hole, but we h^ar the same story, that earlier trav-
elers record for us, that a snake and an owl share
their homes with them. The snakes wo did not
see ; but the owl, a species no larger than a robin,
solemn, stiff and straight, stood guard at many of
the holes.

We passed through an alkali region, where the
soil for two or three feet seemed saturated with soda,
and so poisons the fallen water that, if drank by
man or beast after a shower, it is sure to be fatal.
All the water of this region and the Plains has a
savor of alkali or sulphur in it, but not to an un-

hea

nan

ploi

foui

sul[

Cali

new

gem

grai

der-

the

with

of n

so w

it in

felloe

ing, i

the s

brani

Sout

mark

is on

aflforc

but i1

prote

dians

and I

partir

eating

and d

-■sgt.^'!;^

TINENT.

; occasionally the pa-
L deeper touch to our
*lains, deepened, toe,
If would soon violate
cred bones of father,
2 prairie ; — the wiser
itself, once in a while,
Ired above ground —
:t, he places the body
d poles, six or eight

for an upward flight,
lation ; — and anon we
prairie dogs, looking
iy scampered through
;hirruping bark, back
tials are smaller and
;xpected; their holes,

are congregated in

a quarter or half a
y a pair occupy each
)ry, that earlier trav-
ce and an owl share
: snakes we did not

larger than a robin,
>d guard at many of

di region, where the
i saturated with soda,
:er that, if drank by
it is sure to be fatal,
ind the Plains has a
t, but not to an un-

A soluieh's breakkast. 25

healthy degree. We stopped at Fremont Spring,
named for its discovery and use by the great ex-
plorer, on his original trip through this region, and
found it pure, sweet water, slightly marked with
sulphur. Wc were not without our daily paper ; for
we stopped the incoming stage and had the latest
California journals, but, though they gave us fresh
news from the Pacific shore, their eastern intelli-
gence was indeed a twice-told tale. At the tele-
graph stations, however,— for those bare but won-
der-working poles and wires ran in sight all along
the road, and kept us in their mysterious sympathy
with friends and home,— wc had a special privilege
of reading the news as it ran East and West, and
so we were up with the world, though so far out of
It in all material circumstance.

We dropped General Connor, who had been our
fellow passenger from Atchison, early Friday morn-
"ig, at Julesburg, where he has his head-quarters for
the summer, and where the Platte River forks, one
branch extending north to Fort Laramie and the
bouth Pass through the mountains, and the other
marking our southerly line to Denver. Julesburg
IS only a village of tents and turf forts and barns,
affordmg no facilities for a luxurious military life-
but It 13 well located for General Connor's plans for
protecting the commerce of the Plains from the In-
dians, and for punishing them for their past offenses
and present threatenings against it. We took a
parting breakfast with him in camp, just at sunrise
eatmg canned chicken and oysters ofT tin plates
and drinkir^ our coffee with the brownest of sugar

•mm

26 ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

a d the most concentrated of milk, all in the sim-
plest and most barren of border life. But we parted
from him with real regret and a large respect. He
had shown himself to us both a genuine gentleman
and a valuable commandant ; and we found reason
in our personal acquaintance to confirm the judg-
ment of the people of all this region, that he is of
all men, whom the government has assigned to the
duty, the most fit and efficient for restraining the
Indians, for protecting and developing the interests
of government and people, for settling the Mormon
problem, for giving order and unity to the incoher-
ent and chaotic social and material life of all this

vast region.

General Connor has been for two years m com-
mand at Utah, and of his administration there and
his views of the Mormons, I shall have occasion to
speak when I am on the spot It is only two
months since he had assigned to him, also, the pro-
tection of the Overland Routes across the Plams ;
but everybody hereabouts notes with pride and con-
fidence the change already introduced. The sol-
diers have ceased to be thieves and bullies; a new
and better social tone is visible in all the mining re-
gion; the laws are better respected; soldiers guard
the whole central line of travel, and cavalrymen
escort every stage— theYe is no longer any leal dan-
ger, or will not be, so soon as a few more troops can
be put in their places, in traveling or freightmg
over the main road from the river to the mountams ;
the Indians will speedily be driven back to their res-
ervations, and forced to submit to whatever terms the

sa:

di£

sul

rie

set

noi

ch(

fro:

the

nisi

aln

nov

fror

for

ist!(

earl

Uni

vice

tern

Mej

Cali

othe

thei

of a

NENT.

lilk, all in the sira-
ife. But we parted
large respect. He
genuine gentleman
id we found reason
I confirm the judg-
egion, that he is of
has assigned to the
; for restraining the
sloping the interests
lettling the Mormon
mity to the incoher-
:erial life of all this

r two years in com-
nistration there and
lall have occasion to
jt. It is only two
to him, also, the pro-
is across the Plains ;
s with pride and con-
itroduced. The sol-
5 and bullies ; a new
; in all the mining re-
acted; soldiers guard
ivel, and cavalrymen
) longer any leal dan-
L few more troops can
iveling or freighting
ver to the mountains ;
iven back to their res-
to whatever terms the

GENERAL CONNOR's PERSONAL HISTOKV. 27

government may dictate; prices will fall along the
Plains and in the Territories on the eastern slopes
of the mountains; and all the business of this vast
and nch region will receive, under certainty and
safety, an impetus, and gain an uniformity, that have
never before marked their history. Whether the In-
dians shall be wholly exterminated; or forced into
submission and half civilization in limited territo-
ries, undisputed for the present by the white; or
set to work upon the Pacific Railroad— thest are
not points for General Connor to decide. The
choice belongs to the government at Washington.
But General Connor will certainly restrain them
Irom violence, and punish them for their barbarities
He believes they may be made useful in building
the Pacific Railroad; and he has proposed to fur-
nish two thousand of one or two tribes, who have
already submitted to his authority, and whom he is
now supporting at an enormous expense far distant
from his base of supplies, to the railroad company
for an experiment.

General Connor has a personal history character-
istic of America. He was born in Ireland, came
early to New York with his parents, enlisied in the
United States cavalry, when a young man, for ser-
vice in our Indian territory, served out his regular
term, lived in Texas, rejoined the' army during the
Mexican war, and became a captain, removed to
California, prospered in business as a farmer and
otherwise, again took up arms for his country when
the rebellion broke out, and was appointed colonel
of a California regiment, and thence, by his well-

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

recognized experience and his services in this re-
gion, was advanced to a brigadiership, and assigned,
some two or three years ago, to the command of
the military district of Utah. He is an intelligent
and accomplished gentleman, in the prime of life
and power, strict in discipline, clear and strong in
thought and in its expression ; and if willing to
continue in the service, as I am sure the govern-
menl ought to be most earnest to have him, and
sustained in his policy, he will most honorably and
usefully connect his name with the disposition of
the two great questions of our national responsi-
bility and duty in this quarter— the Mormons and
the Indians. Twenty-five years ago. General Con-
nor left Fort Leavenworth, on the Missouri River,
a private in the United States regular army. Last
week he, visited it a second time, a Brigadier-gen-
eral and the Commander of the District of the
Plains, comprising a larger territory, and embracing
more delicate and important responsibilities than
any other single military district in the country.
The contrast of the two facts tells the whole story
of his character and his history, and sustains my
judgment of him.

The reception of Speaker Colfax and his party on
their arrival here was very enthusiastic and flatter-
ing. They were met and welcomed by Governor
Evans and other territorial officers and a committee
of the citizens of Denver ; in the evening there was
a large popular gathering to pay personal respect to
the visitors; and Mr. Colfax, Mr. Bross, and Mr.
Richardson made eloquent and effective speeches.

r
c

a
h
tl
k

n(
th
th

lENT.

crvices in this re-
ihip, and assigned,
I the command of
[e is an intelligent
I the prime of life
lear and strong in
and if willing to
1 sure the govern-
to have him, and
lost honorably and
the disposition of
national responsi-
-the Mormons and
ago, General Con-
he Missouri River,
;gular army. Last
le, a Brigadier-gen-
he District of the
ory, and embracing
;sponsibilities than
ict in the country.
;lls the whole story
y, and sustains my

fax and his party on
usiastic and flatter-
:omed by Governor
ers and a committee
le evening there was
J personal respect to
Mr. Bross, and Mr.
i effective speeches.

MR. COLFAX'S SPEECH AT DENVER. 29

Mr. Colfax was especially happy and felicitous ; pub-
lic speaking is as natural and easy to him as swim-
ming to a duck; and he repeated President Lin-
coin s partmg suggestions and messages to the mi-
ners with pathetic fidelity, and they were received
with mournful interest and deep plersure. Public
and private courtesies a/e showered upon him and
his friends. They start this morning for a visit to
the rnmes and the mountains, which will occupy
four days, when they will return here, and again take
up their progress westward, in the long ride to Utah
next Saturday. They arc all in good health and
the best of spirits-not alcoholic-aud very glad
they came; esieciallyvour g ^^

LETTER IV.

THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS AND THEIR GOLD MINES.

Denver, Colorado, June 2. '

We have been spending an interesting week
among the Rocky Mountains ; riding and driving
up and down their ragged sides, through their nar-
row valleys, and over their occasional plains ; ford-
ing their turbulent streams; gazing with never-
ceasing delight upon their various forms of beauty,
under cloud and storm and sunshine, their snow-
capped peaks, their deep ravines and narrow gorges,
their purpling, shadowed sides and tops, their high
pinnacles of rock, monuments of Creation and His-
tory; and then, descending into the golden mines,
following tortuous veins of precious rock, hundreds
of feet beneath the surface, tracing the specks of
gold among the comparative dross of iron and cop-
per and lead, hobnobbing with the dusty miners in
their dreary workshops, faintly illuminated with oc-
casional candles, and then, ascending to day and
light again, watching the processes for extractmg
the wealth from the ore,— the irresistible grinding
of the stamps, the washing with much water, the
securing with copper and mercury, the ^ter-delay-

ir
ti
ai
S
b(
m

m
th
w
ar
ni
sp

tCi

ar
pi;
sn
fin
as
cit
ba
nil
se(
ste

are
Ra
do<
Eu
bef
sur
upc

HEIR GOLD MINES.

IVER, Colorado, June 2. '
ti interesting week

riding and driving
1, through their nar-
asional plains ; ford-
gazing with never-
ous forms of beauty,
inshine, their snow-
s and narrow gorges,
and tops, their high
of Creation and His-
o the golden mines,
cious rock, hundreds
acing the specks of
ross of iron and cop-

the dusty miners in

illuminated with oc-
cending to day and
:esses for extracting

irresistible grinding
ith much water, the
cury, the Jrfter-delay

THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS VS. THE ALPS. 3 1

ing with blankets : all the rarest wonders and beau-
ties of Nature, all the divinest patience of Labor
and the faith of Knowledge, all the mysteries of
Science and the intricacies of Art have been spread
before us during these crowded days among the
mines and the mountains of Colorado.

How the mind runs back to one's youinful, vague,
mythical knowledge of the Rocky Mountains in
their actual presence ! How difficult to realize that,
whereas, twenty years ago, they and their location
and character and the region about them were al-
most unknown, now, two weeks from home, I am
sporting familiarly under their shadows, following
tediously up their sides, galloping in the saddle
around their summits, drinking from their streams,
playing snow-ball in June with theiv imperishable
snow banks, tlescending into their very bowels, and
finding companionship and society as various and
as cultured and as organized as in New England ;
cities of thousands of inhabitants, not only at their
base, but away up in their narrow valleys, eight and
nine thousand feet above the sea level! All this
seems dream-like, yet weary head and sore feet and
stern statistics testify to the reality.

As to the mountains, as a natural spectacle, they
are first cousins to the Alps. When the Pacific
Railroad is done, our Switzerland will be at our very
doors. All my many and various wanderings in the
European Switzerland, three summers ago, spread
before my eye no panorama of mountain beauty
surpassing, nay none equaling, that which burst
upon my sight at sunrise upon the Plains, when

I-

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

t?^

fifty miles away from Denver ; and which rises up
before me now as I sit writing by the window in
this city. From far south to far north, stretching
around in huge semi-circle, rise the everlasting hills,
one upon another, one after another, tortuous, pre-
senting every variety of form and surface, every
shade of cover and color, up and on until we reP-ch
the broad, snow-covered range that marks the high'
est summits, and tells where Atlantic and Pacific
meet and divide for their long journey to their far
distant shores. To the North rises the king of the
range. Long's Peak, whose top is fourteen thousand
six hundred feet high ; to the South, giving sourc;
to the Arkansas and Colorado, looms up its brother,
Pike's Peak, to the hight of thirteen thousand four
hundred feet. These are the salient features of the
belt before us ; but the intervening and succeeding
summits are scarcely less commanding, and not
much lower in hight. Right up from Denver stands
the mountain top that was the scene of Bicrstadt's
" Storm in the Rocky Mountains," and up and down
these mountain sides were taken many of the stud-
ies that he is reproducing on canvas with such de-
light to his friends and fame for himself. No town
that I know of in all the world has such a panorama
of perpetual beauty spread before it as Denver has
in this best and broadest belt of the Rocky Moun-
tains, that rises up from the valley in which it is
built, and winds away to the right arid to the left
as far as the eye can see — fields and woods and
rocks and snow, mounting and melting away to the
sky in a line often indistinguishable, and sending

ba
pa
de
of-
soi

SOI

fan

anc

the

knc

Thi

our

rich

hiU-

feet,

no (

limi

red

suni

ore

ishec

terril

ters i

the r

creel

the s

some

are C

i^9^y^"

INENT.

and which rises up
; by the window in
ir north, stretching
;he everlasting hills,
)ther, tortuous, pre-
and surface, every
d on until we rep.ch
hat marks the high-
Atlantic and Pacific
journey to their far
ises the king of the
s fourteen thousand
Jouth, giving sourc;
ooms up its brother,
rteen thousand four
lient features of the
ing and succeeding
nmanding, and not
from Denver stands
scene of Bicrstadt's
s," and up and down
n many of the stud-
invas with such de-
• himself No town
las such a panorama
)re it as Denver has
if the Rocky Moun-
^alley in which it is
ight and to the left
Ids and woods and
melting away to the
shable, and sending

THE COLORADO GOLD MINES. 33

back the rays of the sun in colors and shapes that
pamt and penal never reproduced, that poetry never
described. These are sights that the eye never tires
of-these are visions that clear the heart of earthly
sorrow, and lead the soul up to its best and highest
sources. °

Leaving nature for the material, beauty for booty,
fancy for fact, I come to speak of the mineral wealth
and development of this section of the Rocky
Mountains. And, unless I deny the evidence of
the senses, and the testimony of experience and
knowledge, I must coincide in the inexhaustibleness
of the one and the wonderfulness of the other.
This whole vast range of mountains, that divides
our Continent, seems indeed crowded with veins of
ri^h mineral ore. They run into and through the
hiU-sides as the bars of a gridiron,-every hundred
feet, every fifty feet, every twenty feet. There is
no end to them in number; there is no apparent
limit to their depth; one hundred feet, three hund-
red feej and four hundred feet have the miners
sunk suafts, and did we descend, but the veins of
ore hold their course and their richness undimin-
ished, oftenest enlarged.

The chiefest development of these mines in this
territory lies along and up the Clear Creek, and cen-
ters around its sources some forty miles up and in
the mountains west from Denver. Here, along the
creek and some narrow gulches leading into it, within
the space of five miles, is gathered a population of
some SIX to seven thousand. The principal villages
are Central City, Black' Hawk and Nevada, holding

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

) ii

rank in the order named. These are most uncom-
fortably squeezed into little narrow ravines, and
stuck into the hill-sides, on streets the narrowest and
most tortuous that I ever saw in America; som<
houses held up in dizzy hights on stilts, others bur
rowed into the stones of the hill, with a gold "lode'
in the back yard, and often a well issuing from a rock
of precious metals. But here these towns are, thriv
ing, orderly, peaceable, busy, supporting two of them
each its daily paper, with churches and schools, and
all the best materials of government and society
that the East can boast of. Down in the close val-
leys, and up the steep hill-sides to the very top, rise
Vhe mills for grinding out the gold, or the shanties
that cover the shafts that lead down after the
ore. Farther away, on the mountains, thick as ant-
• hills or prairie-dog-holes, and looking the same, are
"lodes" or leads of mineral, discovered, dug into,
pre-empted, but not worked— hundreds, thousands
of them, with fortunes or failures involved in their
development, ready to be tried when the discoverer
gets time or money, or turned over to a Wall street
stock company of five millions capital.

Forty or fifty miles below Denver, near what is
called the South Park, a beautiful table-land of
meadow and wood between Pike's Peak and the
main range, is the second center of mineral devel-
opment in Colorado territory; but this one upon
Clear Creek is, as yet, the scene of largest improve-
ment and population. Other sections of the terri-
tory are probably as rich in valuable ore ; some are
well believed to fee much more so ; no part of the

ar
a§
th
or
w<
er

pa
do
du
of

hi|

an(

cut

bee

nej

exf

the

cot]

atic

mir

1^595"

•INENT.

:se are most uncom-
larrow ravines, and
;ts the narrowest and
r in America; somt
on stilts, others bur
11, with a gold "lode"
11 issuing from a rock
hese towns are, thriv'
pporting two of them
;hes and schools, and
^rnment and society
town in the close val-
s to the very top, rise
gold, or the shanties
ead down after the
)untains, thick as ant-
looking the same, are
discovered, dug into,
-hundreds, thousands
ires involved in their
I when the discoverer
over to a Wall street
5 capital.

Denver, near what is
eautiful table-land of
Pike's Peak and the
Iter of mineral devel-
f] but this one upon
ne of largest improve-
r sections of the terri-
aluable ore ; some are
ore so ; no part of the

THE QUARTZ MILLS.

mountains may be held wholly barren ; it happens
only that these localities were most attainable, and
were first lit upon by the early comers. What is
called gulch mining, or washing the sand and soft
and pulverized rock of the valley, for the gold that
ages of rains have filtered out of the solid rock of
the mountains, is about over in Colorado— we see
only now its abundant ruins in sluices, piles of
worked over earth, and the rotting simple machin-
ery sometimes used; yet in some of the fresher
gulches, this work is still profitable; and we saw
pan washings that turned out one, two and three
dollars to the pan, I have a dollar's worth of gold
dust that I saw washed out from about three quarts
of earth, in less than ten minutes of time.

The chief attention now is given to the solid
mining ; but for various causes, principally from the
high prices of labor and provisions, all raining here
has been dull for nearly a year. Not more than
twenty or twenty-five of the one hundred stamp
mills in the territory are now at work. With labor
and food from three to four times as high as at the
East, growing mainly out of the interruption to com-
munication by the Indians, and the inflation of the
currency last year, and the short supply of laborers
because of the war, and with gold now reduced to
nearly par, mining hardly pays expenses. When
expenses get back, as they are soon likely to do, to
the currency standard, the business will again be-
come profitable, and be actively resumed. Prepar-
ations are fast making for this now, and mills and
mines are being set in order, and resuming work.

36 ACROSS THE CONTINENT,

Another reason of the dull times is that much of
the best property has been changing hands, passing
from the early or original owners and workers into
joint stock companies, owned mainly in the East,
which in some cases are not conducting the busi-
ness so wis 'y as their predecessors, and in others
are stoppir^g for a better labor and supply market,
or to enlarge and improve their works. Again, it
is beUeved the mining interest is on the eve of
great 'mprovements in the processes of extracting
the gold from its associate metals and sulphides, and
owners of mines and mills a . experimenting in this
direction, or are content to wait for the results of
others' experiments.

The common process of crushing the ore into
fine powder, and then washing the same upon cop-
per plates coated with quicksilver, which collects the
disintegrated gold, or is supposed to, it is well ascer-
tained gets but about twenty-five per cent, of all the
precious metal. Three-quarters goes off in the " tail-
ings," or refuse, as they are called. With such a
waste, only the most valuable of the ore pays ex-
penses at such times as these. Good ore yields about
one hundred dollars in gold per cord, or twelve dol-
lars per ton, under the stamping and quicksilver pro-
cess. This leaves a fair margin under favorable
management, for getting out the ore costs about
forty dollars a cord, hauling five dollars, and crush-
ing and extracting twenty dollars. Choice ores yield
three hundred dollars a cord ; but these are rare.
The difficulty is not in separating the gold from the
pure copper, iron or lead, or the quartz with which

itii

whi

my;

chc

feet

ists

on 1

abr

its c

leav

so i

orig

whi(

of p

gold

emb

lars

or c(

nally

hunc

ton (

what

stam

"des

this,

done,

isfact

mine:

dollai

hund;

at ab(

much

^ -v *i„

[NENT.

es is that much of
ging hands, passing
rs and workers into
nainly in the East,
anducting the busi-
ssors, and in others
and supply market,
ir works. Again, it
t is on the eve of
cesses of extracting
s and sulphides, and
xperimenting in this
it for the results of

ishing the ore into
the same upon cop-
:r, which collects the
id to, it is well ascer-
re per cent, of all the
I goes off in the " tail-
zied. With such A
of the ore pays ex-
Jood ore yields about
• cord, or twelve dol-

and quicksilver pro-
gin under favorable
the ore costs about
e dollars, and crush-
s. Choice ores yield

but these are rare,
ng the gold from the
le quartz with which

NEW INVENTIONS FOR EXTRACTING GOLD. 37

it is compacted ; but the sulphurcts of these metals,
which suffuse and coat the whole, are the plague and
mystery. These cover and hold the gold in a stern
chemical lock, how to break which in a simple, ef-
fective way is the great study of the mineral chem-
ists and mining capitalists. Various processes are
on trial ; one which we saw applies a hot flame and
a brisk wind to all the pulv . .-^ed ore, which changes
its chemical character, burns up the sulphurets, and
leaves the metals all free ; then they are scoured,
so as to brighten the gold, and then washed, as
originally, in copper pans coated with quicksilver,
which, better than any other article in these days'
of paper currency and forgotten coin, knows the
gold when it sees it, and sticks to it with fraternal
embrace. This process was getting twenty-five dol-
lars a ton from the "tailings" or refuse of the old
or common process, or twice as much as was origi-
nally obtained. Another process has obtained three
hundred and seventy-five dollars from less than a
ton of "tailings," which is probably many times
what the originnl ore produced by the common
stamping and washing. The object desired is to
"desulphurize" the ore; both these inventions do
this, though in diflferent wa>s. When the thing is
done, and this season can hardly pass until it is sat-
isfactorily accomplished, we shall see the Colorado
mines yielding from five hundred to eight hundred
dollars per cord of ore, instead of from fifty to two
hundred and fifty dollars as now. (A cord is rated
at about eight tons, though different ores vary very
much in weight.) This rate of production wUl at

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

once put a new phase upon the business, afford al-
most any price for labor and supplies, redeem all
the mining companies from whatever present em-
barrassments they feel, stimulate, the investment of
capital in these mines with great rapidity, and even,
by generous dividends, go far to excuse that vicious
system of putting up a mining company's stock to
one, two, three and five millions, when the actual
cash investment was not over as many hundreds of
thousands.

This last habit of parties interested in the mining
business has had a most fatal influence upon the
whole interest ; the small dividends upon large, many
times watered capitals have erroneously represented
the state of the business ; and the suspicions and dis-
trust, that the operation has surely scattered among
outside capitalists, haVe '-ndered if not forbidden
investments. Few or none of the companies now
operating here have spent over two hundred and
fifty thousand or three hundred thousand dollars
for their mines, machinery and mills, yet their capi-
tals are reckoned by millions ; and of course in hard
times like these they can afford no adequate, seduc-
tive dividends on such swollen sums. How much
better it would be to have the shares in a half mil-
lion company, worth twice the par value, and receiv-
ing dividends of twelve to fifty per cent., than with
a nominal capital of two or three millions, the stock
selling for seventy-five dollars per share, and receiv-
ing small dividends with doubt and irregularity, no
honest, sensible man can fail to see. I meet no
manager of a mine here, whether an old miner or

cor

anc

pra

ten

gul

cou

is 1

nee

to I

is r

rep(

last

in t

orC

a sr

nati

out I

ited

airin

proc

with

thes

Intel

veyo

ing (

lions

noth

chan

ural:

succ<

T<::

NENT.

business, afford al-
upplies, redeem all
atever present em-
3. the investment of
; rapidity, and even,
excuse that vicious
company's stock to
IS, when the actual
s many hundreds of

rested in the mining
influence upon the
ids upon large, many
neously represented
e suspicions and dis-
ely scattered among
ed if not forbidden
the companies now
;r two hundred and
ed thousand dollars
mills, yet their capi-
md of course in hard
I no adequate, seduc-
i sums. How much
shares in a half mil-
par value, and receiv-
f per cent., than with
ee millions, the stock
per share, and receiv-
t and irregularity, no
to see. I meet no
ther an old miner or

THE PRODUCT OF THE COLORADO MINES. 39

an agent from the home capitalists, who does not
condemn, as foolish in itself, a fraud upon the public,
and a damage to the whole' mining interest, this
practice of making the nominal capitals from two to
ten times the actual, in the generally vain hope of
gulling the flats in Wall street or in New England
country towns. This mining business of the West
is too promising in real profit, too legitimate and
necessary to the national wealth and development,
to be trifled with in this weak and wretched way.

The gross production of the Colorado gold mines
is not correctly known. The United States mint
reports only ten millions in all up to July first of
last year. This puts the Territory next to California
in total product, ranking her above North Carolina
or Georgia in all their history; but it gives her only
a small proportion of the whole production of the
nation from the beginning till now,— ten millions
out of six hundred millions, California being accred-
ited with all but about forty millions of the gross
amount Other authorities give Colorado's total
production as over fifty millions, accrediting her
with twenty mUlions in a single year ^1864;) but
these figures are certainly as far the other way. An
intelligent authority here (General Pierce, the sur-
veyor-general of ^he Territory.) gives me the follow-
ing estimates: 1862, ten millions; 1863, eight mil-
lions; 1864, five millions. The falling off indicates
nothing as to the real wealth of the mines, only
changes in the business of producing, and the nat-
ural results of high prices. The year 1 862 embraced
successful gulch mining, and the first of the quartz

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

mining, under most favorable circumstances, follow-
ing a year (1861) of depression and non-production
far more fruitful of croakers than 1864 and the first
half of 1865 have been. Just now the new Territo-
ries of Idaho and Montana, in the far North, are
drawing off the floating population, the gulch min-
ers, and those eager for fortunes at a jump. The
day of these is over here. Slow and sure is now
the motto for Colorado, as for California. Her ca-
pacity is proven, admitted; capital, science, labor
and machinery will return twenty-five, fifty and one
hundred per cent, on their investments ; but gold
eagles are no longer picked up by the basketsfull,
and hundred thousand dollar fortunes in a day or a
month, are not to be had here, — but further on, if
at all.

The reports from Idaho and Montana, particu-
larly the latter, are indeed astonishing ; the gulch
mining, discovered and developing in Montana, is
reliably reported to me as far richer than any ever
realized in California or Colorado, paying steadily
an oun e of gold (sixteen to eighteen dollars) a day
to the man, and in some gulches two and three
ounces a day. But these placers will soon be worked
out ; these Territories, like their predecessors, will
speedily come down to the hard-pan, and have to
pick and powder and stamp and melt out their gold
from the solid mountains that hold the original de-
posits. Montana and Idaho, too, must hold out
greater inducements at first, in order to secure their
peopling and development, for the one is dependent
on Oregon for supplies, and eight hundred miles

aw£
con
and
fror

fron

rien

tain

stati

Stai

beyc

adja^

thei

whic

Colo

whic

and

thef

foun(

andf

are n

fast 1

the r

over

Irrig£

even

and tl

workf

ican J

be re;

oppor

tion -^

■INENT.

ircumstances, follow-
and non-production
in 1864 and the first
low the new Territo-
i the far North, are
tion, the gulch min-
les at a jump. The
ow and sure is now
CaUfornia. Her ca-
ipital, science, labor
ity-five, fifty and one
.vestments ; but gold
p by the basketsfull,
irtunes in a day or a
:, — but further on, if

d Montana, particu-
onishing; the gulch
iping in Montana, is
richer than any ever
ado, paying steadily
ghteen dollars) a day
ches two and three
s will soon be worked
2ir predecessors, will
ird-pan, and have to
d melt out their gold
hold the original de-
too, must hold out
order to secure their
the one is dependent
eight hundred miles

IRON AND COAL IN COLORADO, 41

away from a base at that; while Montana has to
come this way for everything to eat and work with
and IS at least one thousand six hundred miles away
from railway and water communication.

All reports, all facts, whether floating in the air
from mouth to mouth, or ground out by hard expe-
rience, and put down in black and white, go to sus-
tain the broadest and fullest meaning of the dying
statement of President Lincoln, that the United
States hold the treasury of the world; and establish
beyond reasonable doubt, that the countries of and
adjacent to the Rocky Mountains are freighted with
the most precious of ores-gold first, next silver, in
which Nevada and Utah are most conspicuous, and
Colorado not found wanting, and then copper (with
which the Colorado mineral veins are richly loaded)
and also lead, iron and coal. On the Plains, near
the foot of the mountains, coal and iron are already
found in abundant quantities, ar-l are being mined
and put to practical use. Found, too. j ust where they
are most needed, to take the place of the wood, now
fast being drained from the mountains, and furnish
the material for the machinery necessary to work
over the ore and make available the finer metals
Irrigation, already entered upon on a large scale
even here, will supply agriculture with its lacking'
and through and by all these means combining, and
worked with the energy and enterprise of the Amer-
ican people, stimulated by the great profits sure to
be realized from wise and persevering use of the
opportunities, the western half of the American na-
tion will fast move forward in civilization and popu-

1.%

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

lation ; this wilderness will blossom as the rose, and
the East and the West will stand alike equal and
together, knowing no jealousy, and only rivaling
each other in their zeal for knowledge, liberty and
civilization. But of what effect upon the currencies
and the values of the world will be all this tide of
gold and silver pouring into the lap of nations?
Will their commerce and populations grow in ex-
tent and want in equal proportions, and absorb what
is to be so lavishly fed out to them ? Perhaps so.
But these promises of the American nation and these
resulting queries are rich in thought and study.

»f

morn

west

throu

when

in his

m the

a doz

logy

quest

natioi

lamer

with

impre

of th(

his w

eveni)

tel in

Terril

tleme

hundr

TINENT.

issom as the rose, and
itand alike equal and
;y, and only rivaling
nowlcdge, liberty and
:t upon the currencies
irill be all this tide of
the lap of nations?
pulations grow in ex-
;ions, and absorb what
) them? Perhaps so.
:rican nation and these
bought and study.

LETTER V.

OF PERSONS, NOT THINGS.

DENVEn, Colorado, June 3.

Our week in Colorado is ended ; we are off this
morning for the seven days' stage ride north and
west along the base of the Rocky Mountains, and
through them at Bridger's Pass, to Salt Lake City,
where we expect to worship with Brigham Young
in his tabernacle on Sunday week. While here and
m the adjacent mountains, Mr. Colfax has made half
a dozen speeches, and redelivered his Chicago eu-
logy upon President Lincoln, the latter at the re-
quest of Governor Evans on the occasion of the
national mourning (June ist,) for the loss of our
lamented chief magistrate. He has been received
with distinguished honor, made a most favorable
impression, and encouraged the miners and people
of the Territory in many ways by his presence and
his words. Their compliments to him ended last
evening by a grand gala supper at the principal ho-
tel in this town, in which the leading officials of the
Territory, General Connor, and the ladies and gen-
tlemen of the village to the number of over one
hundred participated. Though the tickets were

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

twelve dollars each, which is a fair specimen of
prices this way, they were soon in earnest demand
at an advance of three dollars. The entertainment
proved a brilliant one in every respect ; various and
bountiful and elegant as a feast ; graceful and grace-
fully rendered by both ladies and gentlemen as a
compliment; and humorous, eloquent, interesting,
and inspiring in its speeches. We go on in our
journey with a rich sense of the hospitality and the
kindness, the enterprise and the intellectual and so-
cial culture of the people of Colorado, both in its
City of the Plains and its Cities of the Mountains.
Never was progress in wealth, in social and political
organization, in the refinements of Anicrican home
life, more rapid and more marked than in the brief
history thus far of Colorado. Soon she will enter
the Union as a State, holding not only the elements
but the acquired realities of a noble and proud one,
and contributing largely, as she has steadily done
even as a Territory, to the common profit of the na-
tion. From the beginning, Colorado has always
sent more gold to the East than she has brought
back in goods; and she is destined to be perma^
nently a profitable partner in the household.

Your readers may like to know more of my com-
panions on this long journey before we go farther
on. Let me introduce them. As a public man,
everybody knows about Mr. Colfax ; how prominent
and useful he has been through six terms in Con-
gress, and how, by virtue of his experience, ability
and popularity, he has come to be Speaker, and
stands before the country one of its best and most

promi

best t

(listar

as yo

pcrsoi

frank r

ncss t

pally f

arena.

one hi

brown

ower,

Gcneri

tcr an(

life, an

cies.

liness i

backwj

his vie

person:

and he

and mo

persona

and witi

and thii

success

^he is

seeing, ;

progres!

is not c

genius, i

absence

^TINENT.

is a fair specimen of
on in earnest demand
I. The entertainment
yf respect ; various and
it ; graceful and grace-
j and gentlemen as a

eloquent, interesting,
8. We go on in our
the hospitality and the
;he intellectual and so-

Colorado, both in its
ties of the Mountains.
, in social and political
nts of Anicrican home
irked than in the brief
Soon she will enter

not only the elements
a noble and proud one,

she has steadily done
mmon profit of the na-
, Colorado has always
than she has brought
destined to be perma-
I the household,
enow more of my com-
y before we go farther
n. As a public man,
Ilolfax ; how prominent
lUgh six terms in Con-

his experience, ability
le to be Speaker, and
ke of its best and most

PORTRAIT OF MR. COLPAX.

promismg statesmen. Rut this is not all, nor the
best of the man. He is not one of tho.sc, to whom
distan.:e lends enchantment ; he grows near to you
as you get near to him; and it i.s, indeed, by hi.s
personal qualities of character, by his simplicity,
frankness, genuine good nature, and entire devoted-
ness to what he considers right, that he has princi-
pally gamed and holds so large a place on the public
arena. Mr. Coliax is short, say five feet six, weighs
one hundred and forty, is young, say forty-two, has
brownish hair and light blue eyes, is a childless wid-
ower, drmks no intoxicating liquors, smokes a la
General Grant, is tough as a knot, was bred a prin-
tcr and editor, but gave up the business for public
l.fe. and ,s the idol of South Bend and all adjacen-
cies. There are no rough points about him ; kind-
I.ness IS the law of his nature ;-whilc he is never
backward in difiering from others, nor in sustaining
his views by arguments and by votes, he never is
personally harsh in utterance, nor unkind in feeling,
and he can have no enemies but those of politics
and most of these find it impossible to cherish any
personal animosity to him. In tact, he is unbounded,
and with him it is a gift of nature, not a studied art :
and this IS perhaps one of the chief secrets of his
success in life. His industry is equally exhaustless ;
-he is always at work, reading, writing, talking
seeing, studying-I can't conceive of a single un-
progressive, unimproved hour in all his life. He
>s not of brilliant or commanding intellect, not a
genius, as we ordinarily apply these words; but the
absence of this is more than compensated by these

il"

46 ACROSS THE OONTINENT.

Other qualities I have mentioned,— his great good
sense, his quick, intuitive perception of truth, and
his inflexible adheren9e to it, his high personal in-
tegrity, and his long and valuable training in the
service of the peopla and the government. With-
out being, in the ordinary sense, one of the greatest
of our public men, he is certainly one of the most
useful, reliable and valuable ; and in any capacity,
even the highest, he is sure to serve the country
faithfully and well. He is one of the men to be
tenaciously kept in public life ; and I have no doubt
he' will be. Some people talk of him for president ;
Mr. Lincoln used to tell him he would be his suc-
cessor; but his own ambition is wisely tempered by
the purpose to perform present duties well. He
certainly makes friends more rapidly and holds them
more closely than any public man I ever knew;
wherever he goes, the women love him, and the men
cordially respect him ; and he is sure to be always
a personal favorite, even a pet, with the people.

The other official of the party, Lieutenant-Gov-
ernor Bross of Illinois, is indeed our paterfamilias,
our "governor," Hale and hearty in body and
mind ; ripe with say fi%-five years and a wide expe-
rience and culture in school, college and journalism ;
cheery in temperament, enjoying rough, out-door
life like a true, unspoiled child of Nature ; sturdy in
high principles ; unaffected and simple in manners
and feeling as a child ; a ready and most popular
stump speaker ; enthusiastic for all novel experience,
we all give him our heartiest sympathy and respect,
and constitute him the leader of the party. Our

best 1

ger, c

Gove

says 1

requii

lumb<

Collej

and I

Yo-k

Chica

has g(

now t

journ;

the Si

Mr.

lived

somet:

preser

Ofeas

(with

Bostor

to lov(

mance

editori

then w

life; c

then t(

paper <

and Co

times ;

as the

the Soi

riNENT.

led,— his great good
:eption of truth, and
lis high personal in-
lable training in the
government, With-
e, one of the greatest
linly one of the most
and in any capacity,
to serve the country
le of the men to be

and I have no doubt
of him for president ;
he would be his suc-
is wisely tempered by
ent duties well. He
apidly and holds them
c man I ever knew;
love him, and the men
; is sure to be always
:, with the people,
arty, Lieutenant-Gov-
:ed our paterfamilias,

hearty in body and
jrears and a wide expe-
oUege and journalism ;
)ying rough, out-door
1 of Nature; sturdy in
nd simple in manners
idy and most popular
or all novel experience,
sympathy and respect,
er of the party. Our

GOVERNOR BROSS AND MR. RICHARDSON, 47

best foot, We always put him foremost, whether dan-
ger, or dignity, or fun is the order of the occasion.
Governor Bross was born in New Jersey, — and so
says he never can be president, as -the Constitution
requires that officer to be a native of the nation ;
lumbered on the Susquehannah ; went to Williams
College, Massachusetts ; taught school in Franklin
and Berkshire counties ; ditto and married in New
Yo-k ; and, following the star of empire, went to
Chicago, and, entering on the editorial profession,
has gone on from small to great things, until he is
now the senior proprietor and editor of the leading
journal of the North-west, and the second officer in
the State government of Illinois,

Mr, Richardson of the New York Tribune has
lived on the borders of Bohemia for many years,
sometimes on one side, sometimes on the other, and
presents all the contradictions of such an existence.
Of eastern Massachusetts birth and early education,
(with a brother who is the able conductor of the
Boston Congregationalist) he learncf' vhile young
to love the smell of the printing office and the ro-
mance of the reporter's life, and ran the round of
editorial experience in nearly all our western cities;
then was bitten by the passion for travel and border
life; came out to Kansas for the Boston Journal;
then to Colorado with Mr. Greeley, edited a news-
paper out here during the early days of bowie knives
and Colt's revolvers ; crossed the Plains half a dozen
times ; went to Texas and New Mexico ; and finally,
as the war came on, after making a secret tour of
the South as a special correspondent for the Tribune,

i««aac«K*r-5S&»5M««»SS««SK

48 ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

became the head of th' Western and south-western
army correspondents oi" that paper, and in under-
taking to run the gauntlet of the rebel batteries at
Vicksbui^, when General Grant opened his final cam-
paign in that quarter, was captured by the enemy; —
as their pet and special prisoner he went the rounds
of their jails and pens, and after twenty months'
servitude mnde his escape, and in a wonderful jour-
ney of one month through the rebel country in win-
ter, reached our lines in safety, and became a hero.
Notwithstanding this long Bohemian life, amid rough
people and in out-of-the-way places, Mr. Richardson
imposes on you with the style and air of a man who
has had a very narrow escape from the pulpit, and
cherishes a natuval hankering for it yet. Certainly
you never would recognize in him a true child of
Bohemia. He wears black broadcloth and "biled
shirts," (the western phrase for white under-clothes,)
does not chew tobacco, disdains whiskey, but drinks
French brandy and Cincinnati Catawba, carries a
good deal of baggage, does not know how to play
poker, and shines brilliantly among the ladies. He
is a young widower of less than thirty-five, of me-
dium size, with a light complexion and sandy hair
and whiskers, and is a very companionable man.
His large and peculiar experience in the West and
in the South by field and flood, gives him a rich
store of anecdote and illustration, with which he en-
tertains us on our long stage rides. He is already
. famous before the country ; and his new book of ex-
periences in the South will make him much more
so. It is probable he will stay longer on the Pacific

shor
Utal
view

gage

then

berf

our (

roll.

speci

Holl:

He a

losop

fills.

and 1

with

man c

we la

thoug

nor a

give 1

wond<

makin

and p]

ing CO

Ace

public

the hoi

the mc

and le;

elers c

tion a

riNENT.

[1 and south-western
)aper, and in under-
he rebel batteries at
opened his final cam-
red by the enemy ; —
r he went the rounds
fter twenty months'

in a wonderful jour-
rebel country in win-
, and became a hero,
imian life, amid rough
ices, Mr. Richardson
ind air of a man who
from the pulpit, and
For it yet. Certainly

him a true child of
roadcloth and "biled
white under-clothes,)
5 whiskey, but drinks
i Catawba, carries a
)t know how to play
long the ladies. He
m thirty-five, of me-
sxion and sandy hair
companionable man.
:nce in the West and
od, gives him a rich
on. with which he en-
"ides. He is already
d his new book of ex-
ake him much more
longer on the Pacific

"A DISTINGUISHED COMPANION." 49

shore than the rest of the party, and perhaps revisit
Utah, the Mhiing Regions and Mountains, with the
view of making a book upon them another season.
Looking-glasses are banished from overland bag-
gage, and the fourth member of the party must,
therefore, remain unsketched. But there is a num-
ber five, who is occupying too important a share in
our experience, to be forgotten in any call of the
roll. This is Mr. George K. Otis of New York, the
special agent and representative of our host, Mr
Holladay of the Overland Mail and Stage Line.'
He accompanies us in the capacity of guide, phi-
losopher and friend, which he most generously ful-
fills. Himself, under Mr. Holladay, the organizer
and manager of the stage line, he is acquainted-
w;th all this region and its people; and being a
man of infinite jest and of free and generous nature,
we lack nothing under his protecting care, which a
thoughtful generosity, nor a practical experience
nor abounding humor and wide intelligence can
give us. His puns are some^-'nes "fearfully and
wonderfully made"; but he earns forgiveness by
making himself a large share of our daily comfort
and pleasure. Happy those who fall to the travel-
mg companionship of Otis !

Accompanying so distinguished and popular a
public officer as Mr. Colfax, we share mutually in
the hospitalities extended to him ; we have access to
the most intelligent sources of information; we see
and learn in a short time what ordinary private trav-
elers could only gain by long and careful observa-
tion and examination. Everywhere, so far the
5 4 '

kiM

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

' ' I .

people of the towns visited are bountiful in their
courtesies; the journey is one continued ovatipn;
public receptions and entertainments, and the choi-
cest of private hospitalities are showered upon us;
and we find that neither the graces nor the culture
of life are confined to the East. They flourish here
among the Rocky Mountains as beautifully as in the
parlors of Boston, or the sweet groves of the Con-
necticut valley.

Most agreeable of all our experiences here are
the intelligent, active, earnest, right-minded and
right-hearted young men and women we meet ; peo.
pie, many of whom have been here for years, but,
instead of losing anything of those social graces
that eastern towns and cities are wont to think
themselves superior in, have not only kept even
pace ih these, but gained a higher play for all their
faculties, and ripened,,with opportunity and incen-
tive and necessary self-reliance, into more of man-
hood and womanhood. Everywhere, too, I find old
friends and acquaintances from the Connecticut
valley; and nowhere do I find them forgetting old
Massachusetts, or unworthy her parentage, i see
less drunkenness ; I see less vice here among these
towns of the border, and of the Rocky Mountains,
than at home in Springfield ; I see personal activity
and growth and self-reliance and social development
snd organization, that not onl> reconcile me to the
emigration of our young people from the East to
this region, but will do much to make me encour-
age it. To the right-minded, the West gives open
opportunity that the East holds close and rare ; and

lO SI

they

lray(

of N

hims

Majc

some

their

Miss

forth

Plain

line,

is no'

contr

i( not

at At

exten

red at

miles

throu]

From

hundr

ownec

manaf

agent!

used i

New ]

Lake,

north ;

Idaho

ern Oi

riNENT.

•e bountiful in their
; continued ovatipn;
ments, and the choi-
j showered upon us;
•aces nor the culture
, They flourish here
} beautifully as in the
t groves of the Con-
experiences here are
it, right-minded and
/omen we meet; peo^
1 here for years, but,
F those social graces
:s are wont to think
not only kept even
jher play for all their
pportunity and incen-
ce, into more of man-
ywhere, too, I find old
rom the Connecticut
d them forgetting old
her parentage, i see
vice here among these
:he Rocky Mountains,
I see personal activity
md social development
\\y reconcile me to the
ople from the East to
h to make me encour-
l, the West gives open
ids close and rare ; and

THE OVERLAND STAGE LINE. 51

lo such, opportunity is all that is wanted, all that
Ihcy ask.

The great Overland Stage Line, by which we are
Imelmg, was originated by Mr. William H. Russell
of New York, and carried on for a year or two by
hunself and partners, under the name of Russell
Majors and Waddell. They failed, however, and
some three years ago it passed into the hands of
their chief creditor, Mr. Ben Holladay, an energetic
Missourian, who had been a successful contractor
for the government and for c- -at corporations on the
Plams and the Pacific. He has since continued the
hne, improvmg, extending and enlarging it until it
is now, perhaps, the greatest enterprise owned and
controlled by one man, which exists in the country
If not in the world. His line of stages commence
at Atchison, on the Missouri River: its first section
extends across the great Plains to Denver, six hund-
red and fifty miles ; from here it goes on six hundred
miles more to Salt Lake City, along the base of and
through the Rocky Mountains at Bridger's Pass
From there to Nevada and California, about seven
hundred and fifty miles farther, the stage line is
owned by an eastern company, and is under the
management of Wells, Fargo & Co., the express
agents. All this is a daily line, and the coaches
used are of the best stage pattern, weU known in
New England as the " Concord t jach." From Salt
Lake, Mr. Holladay runs a tri-weekly coach line
north and west nine hundred and fifty miles through
Idaho to the Dalles on the Columbia River in north-
ern Oregon, and branching ofT at Fort Hall, also a

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

.^^

5 i

tri-weekly line to Virginia City in Montana, four
hundred miles more. From Denver, too, he has a
subsidiary line into the mountain centers of Cen-
tral City and Nevada, about forty miles. Over all
these routes he carries the mail, and is in the re-
ceipt for this service of six hundred and fifty thou-
sand dollars per annum from the government. His
whole extent of staging and mail contracts — not
counting, of course, that under Wells, Fargo & Co.,
from Salt Lake west,— is two thousand seven hun-
dred and sixty miles, to conduct which he owns some
six thousand horses and mules and about two hun-
dred and sixty coaches. All along the routes he has
built stations at distances of ten to fifteen miles ;
he has to draw all his corn from the Missouri River ;
much of his hay has also to be transported hun-
dreds of miles ; fuel for his stations comes frequently
fifty and one hundred miles ; the Indians last year
destroyed or stole full half a million dollars' worth
of his property, — ^barns, houses, animals, feed, &c. ;
he pays a general superintendent ten thousand dol-
lars a year; division superintendents a quarter as
much; drivers and stable-keepers get seventy-five
dollars a month and their living ; he has to mend and
in some cases make his own roads — so that, large as
the sum paid by the government, and high as the
prices for passengers, there is an immense outlay,
and a great risk in conducting the enterprise. Dur-
ing the last year of unusually enormous prices for
everything, and 'extensive and repeated Indian raids,
Mr. Holiaday has probably lost money by his stages.
The previous year was one of prosperity, and the

chin(

ties,

great

a stn

stacl(

larity

the e

of thi

sion

natur

andb

of hi

small

ence

But 11

these

where

and ii

of los

disco\

for th(

as Mr.

him h

velopi

public

nity a

to the

his st£

hundn

dollars

riNENT.

ty in Montana, four
Denver, too, he has a
tain centers of Cen-
jrty miles. Over all
lail, and is in the re-
adred and fifty thou-
le government. His
mail contracts — not
• Wells, Fargo & Co.,
;housand seven hun-.
t which he owns some
J and about two hun-
ong the routes he has
ten to fifteen miles;
1 the Missouri River ;
be transported bun-
ions comes frequently
the Indians last year
million dollars' worth
;s, animals, feed, &c. ;
ent ten thousand dol-
endents a quarter as
;pers get seventy-five
J ; he has to mend and
jads — so that, large as
[lent, and high as the
s an immense outlay,
the enterprise. Dur-
f enormous prices for
repeated Indian raids,
t money by his stage-?.
jf prosperity, and the

MR, HOLLADAY AND HIS STAGES.

next is likely to be. But with so immense a ma-
chine, exposed to so many chances and uncertain-
ties, the returns must always be doubtful. Only a
great man would assume such an enterprise; only
a strong man could carry it through, over such ob-
stacles as are constantly presented ; and the regu-
larity, the promptness and the uniform high state of
the entire service, in general and particular, make
of the whole a matter of real wonder, and an occa-
sion of great credit to Mr. Holladay, It is very
natural that he should be unpopular along his route,
and be denounced as a monopolist, taking advantage
of his monopoly to extort high prices and give
small accommodations ; this is the universal experi-
ence^ of such great enterprises in a new country.
But It would be difficult, if not impossible, through
these infant and struggling years of this country,—
where travel and business of all kinds are uncertain
and irregular, and prices fluctuating, and the risk
of losses frj3m Indians and robbers very great,— to
discover here or elsewhere the man or the means
for the performance of this great service so perfectly
as Mr. Holladay does it ; and I am inclined to reckon
him high among the agencies that are so fast de-
veloping the great western Territories of the Re-
public, and to doubt if many others in the commu-
nity are doing their share in the work more fairly
to the public than he is. The passenger fares by
his stages are ndw, from Atchison to Denver one
hundred and seventy-five dollars, to Salt Lake three
hundred and fifty dollars, to Nevada five hundred
dollars, to California five hundred dollars, to Idaho

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

five hundred dollars, to Montana five hundred dol-
lars. These are much higher than they were two
years ago, ■ nd will probably be reduced during the
season, as safety from the Indians and lower prices
for food and corn are assured, from thirty-three to
fifty per cent.

Mr. HoUaday now resides in New York City, and
is reported to be immensely wealthy, — say five mil-
lions. He owns and runs, also, lines of steamships
in the Pacific Ocean from San Francisco, north to
Oregon and British Columbia, and south to Mazat-
lan, Mexico, with contracts for the mails on both
ro«te.j from our government or from Maximilian of
Mexico. He conducts all this immens? business
successfully by the choice of able and trusty mana-
gers to whom he pays large salaries. Mr. John E.
Russell, formerly of Greenfield, Massachusetts, is his
confidently secretary and financier at New York ;
Mr. George K. Otis is his special agent at Washing-
ton ; Mr. William Reynolds, a life-long stage mana-
ger, dating his education as such back to Chester
W. Chapin, Horatio Sargent and Frank Morgan in
Springfield, but since with large experience in the
South and California, is the general manager of the
overland line, resident at Atchison ; and his (Mr.
HoUaday's) brother resides at San Francisco in
charge of his steamships. Mr. HoUaday visits his
overland line about twice a year, and when he does,
passes over it with a rapidity and a disregard of
expense and rules, characteristic of his irrepressi-
ble nature. A year or two ago, after the disastef
to the steamer Golden Gate on the Pacific shore.

"INENT.

la five hundred do!--

than they were two

! reduced during the

ans and lower prices

from thirty-thiee to

New York City, and
salthy, — say five mil-
), lines of steamships
I Francisco, north to
, and south to Mazat-
tr the mails on both
r from Maximilian of
is immens? business
ible and trusty rnana-
alaries. Mr. John E.
[.Massachusetts, is his
ancier at New York ;
:ial agent at Washing-
i life-long stage mana-
such back to Chester
and Frank Morgan in
irge experience in the
eneral manager of the
xhison ; and his (Mr.
at San Francisco in
Ir. HoUaday visits his
ear, and when he does,
ty and a disregard of
istic of his irrepressi-
ago, after the disastef
on the Pacific shore,

T/AST RIDES OVER THE PLAINS.

by which the only partner nc ever had, Mr. Edward
Rust Flint, son of old Dr. Flint of Springfield, lost
his life, and himself barely escaped a watery grave,
he made the quickest trip overland that it is possi-
ble for one man to make before the distance is
shortened by railway. He caused himself to be
driven from Salt Lake to Atchison, twelve hundred
and twenty miles, in six and one-half days, and was
only twelve days and two hours from San Francisco
to Atchison. The trip probably cost him twenty
thousand dollars in wear and tear of coaches id
injury to and loss of horses by the rapid driv.ng.
The only ride over the Plains, at all comp- able
with this, was that made by Mr, Aubrey, on a wager,
from Santa Fe to Independence, seven hundred
miles, in six and one-half days. But this was n.ade
on horseback, and when the rider reached s desti-
nation, he was so exhausted that he had to oe lifted
from his horse. How exciting the thought of such
rides as these across these open fields and through
these mountain gorges, that make up the half of
our Continent!

^^.

LETTER VI.

A SUNDAY IN THE MOUNTAINS.

Virginia Dale, Colorado, June 5.

There are no aristocratic distinctions between
the days of the week west of the Missouri. The
Broad Church rules here, and so broadly that even
Saint Burleigh of your modern Florence would find
hearty welcome, particularly from our red brethren,
who would rate his scalp with its ornaments at the
value of a dozen of the ordinary sort. Sundays
are as good as other days, and no better. Stages
run, stores are open, mines are dug, and stamp mills
crush. But our eastern prejudices are not yet alto-
gether conquered by the "spirit of the age;" and
so, on reaching here yesterday morning at sunrise,
we commanded a twenty-four hours' halt. Possi-
bly our principles had a point put to them by learn-
ing from the down stage that Mr. " Lo, the poor
Indian " had got loose up the line, stolen the horses,
and interrupted communication. . At any rate, — be
the motive fear for our scalps or fear for our souls, —
we followed the fashion of our forefathers, and slept
through the day, some of us in the coach, the rest
stretched out on the piazza of the only house in

Virgin

even in

snow-c

ing ou

harmoi

psalm

Lodj

Spcakt

and tv,

and tot

side wz

and hu

in at fr

quite a;

form of

tion th

this nil

science!

tainly s

'caving

load of (

whom

cling h£

solaced

paths St

somewh

the pret

Virgil

Iively-lo<

of perha

tains, — f

hills, — st

71.

[OUNTAINS.

»ALE, Colorado, June 5.

istinctions between
:he Missouri. The
broadly that even
Florence would find
m our red brethren,
ts ornaments at the
ary sort. Sundays

no better. Stages
lug, and stamp mills
ces are not yet alto-
it of the age;" and
morning at sunrise,
hours' halt. Possi-
ut to them by learn-

Mr. " Lo, the poor
le, stolen the horses,
. At any rate, — be
fear for our souls, —
jrefathers, and slept

the coach, the rest
■ the only house in

SWEET VIRGINIA DALE.

Virginia Dale ; clambering up a high rock in the
cvenmg to view the landscape o'er of valley, stream
snow-clad mountain, and far-distant i)lain. and clos-
ing out our observances with a mure hearty than
harmonious rendering of our small repertoire of
psalm tunes.

Lodgings are not extensive in this locality; the
Speaker borrowed a bed ; two slept in the coach ;
and two of us rolled ourselves up in our blankets'
and took the floor. I hit upon a board whose hard
tHde was accidentally put up; and what with this,
and hungry and dry and noisy stage drivers coming
m at from two to four a. m., and less vociferous but
quite as hungry invaders of our bodily peace in the
form of vermin, the night brought more of reflec-
tion than refection—to us. Hut we are off early
this niurning, having satisfied our Christian con-
sciences, ,^nd learned that the Indians were cer-
tainly still one hundred and fifty miles away, but
leaving behind for a Monday's rest a fresh stage
load of eager gold seekers and Salt Lake merchants,
whom our scruples on the subject of Sunday trav-
eling had thrown one day behind. But they were
solaced by the arguments that we would make the
paths straight for them above, that they must stop
somewhere, and that here was the best food and
the prettiest cook on the line.

Virginia Dale deserves its pretty name. A pearly,
lively-looking stream runs through a beautiful basin,'
of perhaps one hundred acres, among the moun-
tains,— for we are within the embrace of the great
hills,— stretching away in smooth ancWising pasturs

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

t m

to nooks and crannied of the wooded range ; fronted
by rock embaltlcment, and Hanked by the snowy
peaks themselves; warm with a June sun, and rare
and pure with an air into which no fetid breath h?3
poured itself —it is difficult to imagine a more lova-
ble spot in natures kingdom. It is one hundred
miles north from Denver, half of the way along the
foot of the hills, crossing frequent streams, swollen
and angry with the melting snows, and watering the
only really green acres we have seen since leaving;
Kansas ; and half the road winding over and around
and between the hills that form the approaches to
the Rocky Mountains. Only the station of the
stage line occupies the Dale ; a house, a barn, a
blacksmith shop ; the keeper and his wife, the latter
as sweet, as genteel and as lady-like as if just trans-
planted from eastern society, yet preparing bounti-
ful meals for twice daily stage-loads of hungry and
dirty passengers ; the stock-tender and his assist-
ant,— these were all the inhabitants of the spot, and
no neighbors within fifteen miles. For the day,
our party and its escort,— the soldiers lying off on
the grass by the water with their camp fire and their
baggage wagon, — made unusual life, and gave a pe-
culiar picturesqueness to the sequestered spot.

How women, especially, can live contentedly in
these out-of-the-way places pn the borders, working
hard and conltSlitly. a«l^3!^|^|pugh and selfish men,
and preserve their "terider iemininity, keep them-
selves neatly and sometimes even gracefully dressed,
and not forget their blushes under free compliments,
would be passing slrange, if we did not see it daily

in (

of 1

out

soc;

hur

chi<

cou

ove

are

and

pas!

forr

its ]

to t

thoi

gon

est,

are

ing

esta

here

for 1

men

the

cant

new

isinf

for 2

cess

in S'

ITINENT.

roodcd range ; fronted
laiikcd by the snowy
V a June sun, and rare
ch no fetid breath hrs
I imagine a more lova-
I. It is one hundred
[ of the way along the
jUent streams, swollen
lows, and watering the
ive seen since leavin^;
nding over and around
•rm the approaches to
ily the station of the
e; a house, a barn, a
and his wife, the latter
dy-like as if just trans-
, yet preparing bounti-
;e-loads of hungry and
-tender and his assist-
bitants of the spot, and
miles. For the day.
le soldiers lying off on
heir camp fire and their
sual life, and gave a pc-
; sequestered spot.
:an live contentedly in

E' ; borders, working
h and selfish men,
linity, keep thcm-
even gracefully dressed,
under free compliments,
r we did not see it daily

MOKE Ul' COLOKAUO.

in our journey, and know it by the whole history
of the se.x. 1 certainly have seen young women
out here, miles away from neighbors, knowing no
society but their husbands and children and the
hurried travelers, — depending on the mails for their
chief knowledge of what the world is doing,— who
could pass without apology m gaucherie to presiding
over a Boston dinner party or receiving in state at
Washington. Not all, indeed, are such, but they
are frequent enough to be noted with both surprise
and pleasure.

This is the northern border of Colorado. We
pass to-day into Dacotah. Before parting with the
former Territory, let me note a few facts about it and
its people. Colorado has now not over twenty-five
to thirty thousand population, which is five to ten
thousand fewer than in i860. The adventurers arc
gone. What remain are the substantial, the earn-
est, who have cast in their lot with the Territory,
are satisfied witli its promise, and are wisely work-
ing for the construction of a State and their own
estate. A very large proportion are men who came
here four, five and six years ago, and have a reason
for the faith that* is in them. Last year, a move-
ment to become a State failed, mainly because of
the unpopularity of the men prominent in it, and
candidates for its principal oflfices. It will be re-
newed this year, under more favorable and prom-
ising auspices. The pojiiilation is'too small, indeed,
for a State ; but there are advantages in it, and ne-
cessities, almost, for it, that justify both the people
in seeking and the general government in recog-

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

nizing the change. The Territory has great inter-
ests, national indeed in character, needing more
vigorous interpretation and espousal at Washing-
ton than can be secured by a delegate. The popu-
lation is compact and enterprising and ambitious ;
willing to assume the burdens of a government for
tl'.emselves ; and appreciating the advantages they
will get from it.

One especial motive with the Coloradians for
making a State government is to get a judiciary of
their own, that shall be both more intelligent and
independent than that furnished by the Washing-
ton authorities. The men sent out to these new
Territories as judges are not apt to be of a very high
order either of morals or intellect. They are often
hungry adventurers ; and their salaries bearing gen-
erally no comparison to the cost of living in these
remote regions, and large pecuniary interests often
being involved in the questions brought before
them, — as is especially the case in the mining Ter-
ritories, — they are too apt to yield to the tempta-
tions offered to them, and sell their judgments for
a price. However this may be in Colorado's recent
experience, her best citizens are convinced that they
can get a higher morality, a stricter justice, and a
more intelligent law from judges of their own selec-
tion and paying, than from those sent out here and
paid by " Uncle Sam."

A case has just occurred in the mining districts,
not illustrating, as I know of, the venality of the
federal judiciary, but calculated, at least, to bring it
into contempt. General Fitz John Porter, famous

as G

love

bett

as' s

vein

latte

part

an ir

ever

they

sive

to C(

coul(

Smil

Thei

Judg

smol

coul(

most

not I

them

griev

then

courl

and 1

Utah

he w

his U

office

ways

ion, 1

Terri

NENT.

A CASE OF "CONTEMPT.

)ry has great intcr-
ter, needing more
ousal at Washing-
legate. The popu-
ng and ambitious ;
f a government for
le advantages they

le Coloradians for
) get a judiciary of
ore intelligent and
i by the Washing-
out to these new
to be of a very high
:t. They are often
ilaries bearing gen-
: of living in these
iary interests often
IS brought before
in the mining Ter-
eld to the tempta-
heir judgments for
ti Colorado's recent
;onvinced that they
icter justice, and a
of their own selec-
; sent out here and

le mining districts,
he venality of the
at least, to bring it
)hn Porter, famous

as General McClellan's pet, and notorious as having
loved his patron and his spite against General Pope,
better than his country and her service, is out here
as' superintendent of some mines. He claimed a
vein, that belonged to Smith & Parmalee, as the
latter thought, and began working it. The other
party resisted ; Judge Harding sustained Porter by
an injunction against Smith & Parmalee ; but when-
ever Porter's men undertook to work in the vein,
they found it filled with such sulphurous and offen-
sive smoke that they could not stay in it, and had
to come out. How the smoke came there, no one
could tell; but, as the vein connected with the
Smith & Parmalee mine, everybody could guess.
Thereupon Smith & Parmalee were brought before
Judge Harding on alleged "contempt of court," for
smoking out the party of the other part : nothing
could be proven against them, however; but the
most learned judge decided that the defendants had
not dtsfrovcn the alleged contempt,' and so held
them in five thousand dollars bail ! The judicious
grieved, the unskillful laughed, and everybody said
there could be no contempt too great for such a
court as that. This Judge Harding is from Indiana,
and was first sent by Mr. Lincoln to be Governor of
Utah, but becoming offensive and ineffective there,
he was recalled, and given this judgeship to break
his fall. But beside a broken character as a public
officer, he brought hither such scandalous, Mormon
ways of living, as to shock all shades of public opin-
ion, which is now uniting to drive him out of the
Territory.

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

As the great need of the business men and min-
ers in Colorado is male laborers, so chat of the
housekeepers is female laborers or " help." House-
keeping in large families — and children do accu-
mulate surprisingly here^-is a very serious burden
to the wives and mothers. Their eastern sisters,
in their direst woes with poor servants, c?»n have
but faint appreciation of the burdens of li^ m^- and
entertaining here, where, cooks and waiting girls
are not to be had at any price. We go to rich
dinners and bountiful teas at the homes of distin-
guished and wealthy citizens, and sit and eat with-
out the company of hostess or any other ladies. Slie
and her friends are busy in the kitchen, and come
out only to stand behind our chairs, and change
the plates and pass the viands. There is an un-
comfortable feeling in being thus entertained ; but
it is the necessity of the country, and all parties
make the best of it. The price of the commonest
of female labor is two dollars a day and board.
But the Colorado ladies have their compensations ;
their husbands complain that they can get no
goo(jB^no machinery^ out from the States under a
year from the time of ordering—that all business,
all progress must wait this long delay ; yet the ladies
shine in the latest fashions of millinery and dress-
making. Modes that were but just budding when T
left home, I find in full blossom here. How it is
done I do not understand — there must be a subtle
telegraph by crinoline wires ; as the southern ne-
groes have what they call a grape-vine teleg»a!ph.
The burden laid upon all agricultune, the absolute

a
s

a
t

n
d
b

g
a

r
t.
fl
n
n
ii
o
tl
tl
il
s
d
1
ri
tl

tl
n

(JENT.

less men and min-
rs, so ihat of the
Dr"help." House-
children do accu-
ery serious burden
eir eastern sisters,
servants, c?n have
•dens of li^ m^" and
and waiting girls
!. We go to rich
e homes of distin-
d sit and eat with-
( other ladies. SI.e
kitchen, and come
:hairs, and change
. There is an un-
is entertained; but
try, and all parties
of the commonest
a day and board,
eir compensations ;
they can get no
the States under a
--that all business,
lelay ; yet the ladies
lillinery and dress-
ust budding when I
m here. How it is
re must be a subtle
IS the southern ne-
pe-vine tele^iaph.
;ultune, the absolute

*Ki_;jJfc .--»

IRRIGATION.

want of all horticulture as yet in all this country,
are among its serious drawbacks. The winds, the
sun, the porous yet unfriable soil, the long seasons
of no or inadequate rain, leave all vegetation gray
and scanty, except it is in direct communication with
the water-courses. Trees will not live in the house
yards ; house owners can have no turf, no flowers,
no fruits, no vegetables — the space around the
dwellings in the towns is a bare sand, relieved only
by infrequent mosses and weeds. The grass is
gray upon the plains ; cotton-wood and sappy pine
are almost alone the trees of the mountain region ;
no hard wood is to be found anywhere; and but for
the occasional oases by the streams, and the rich
flowers that will spring up on the high mountain
morasses, the country would seem to the traveler
nearly barren of vegetable life. But what there is
is rich in quality ; the coarse and gray bunch grass
of plain and prairie, of hill-side and rocks, affords
the best of nutriment for horses, cattle and sheep ;
they grow fat fast upon it in summer, and exist upon
it in winter. Even here, where, in June we see
snow on the hill-sides close to us, and shiver under
double blankets at night, the cattle live out of
loors through the long winter. It is, indeed, a
rich grazing country, and will support its herds on
thousands.

Irrigation is a necessity for all extensive cultiva-
tion of the soil, however ; and the extent to which
this is already being employed, and the amount of
money invested in it, are occasions of surprise. But
with the far distance of all competing production,

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

and the great fertility of the soil when thus devel-
oped, it will richly pay to carry vater from the
mountain streams miles on miles from their natural
courses, and spread it by little artificial rivulets
over acres on acres of grains, potatoes and the
other vegetables. A plan is in progress of execu-
tion for bringing a large water-course some fifteen
miles around Denver, and letting it out in gentle,
fructifying streams all over the town and its adja-
cent farms and gardens. Then will this now barren
wilderness of store and house and sand blossom
like the rose ; then can door-yards be green with
grass, shaded with trees, and beautiiul with flowers.
Meantime, the people must live on canned fruits
and vegetables irom the East; and possess their
esthetic souls in patience, for the rest, in magnify-
ing their mountain view of charming yet constant
beauty. The exteudivc and common use of these
imported productions of our eastern orchards and
gardens in all the country west of the Missouri
River, is most astonishing. They are on every ta-
ble; few New England housekeepers present such
a variety of excellent vegetables and fruits, as we
r.iKl everywhere here, at every hotel and station
:-- A, and at every private dinner or supper. Corn,
' latoes, beans, pine apples, strawberry, cherry
and peach, with oysters and lobsters, are the most
common ; and all of these, in some form or other,
you may fiequently find served up at a single meal.
These canned vegetables and fruits and fish are
sold, too, at prices which seem cheap compared
with the cost of other things out here. They range

eac

doll

two

and

thei

dre(

tion

port

curr

Floi

cent

doll:

seve

butt

ciga

cent

dolla

mola

fourt

five

Mon

FIou

cent!

lar, c

tweh

dred

rible

distai

.,_...i.

;nt.

vhen thus devel-
vater from the
om their natural
irtificial rivulets
otatoes and the
ogress of execu-
rse some fifteen
it out in gentle,
vvn and its adja-
this now barren
d sand blossom
s be green with
ful with flowers,
n canned fruits
id possess their
■est, in magnify-
ng yet constant
lon use of these
■n orchards and
)f the Missouri
are on every ta-
TS present such
id fruits, as we
itel and station
supper. Corn,
iwberry, cherry
rs, are the most
! form or other,
it a single meal,
ts and fish are
heap compared
e. They range

PRICES IN COLORADO.

fu*f. fifty cents to one dollar a can of about two
quarts. Families buy them in cases of two dozen
each at twelve to fifteen dollars a case; while away
up in Montana, *hey are sold at only twenty-seven
dollars a case.

Colorado has four daily and four weekly papers,
two each at Dfenver, and one each at Black Hawk
and Central City, in the mining region ; and though
their circulation is small— some five to seven hun-
dred each— the large prices they get for subscrip-
tions, for advertising and for printing, serve to sup-
port them all liberally. Let me close with the
current Colorado rates of staples and luxuries:
Flour twenty cents a pound, meal twenty-three
cents, hams fifty cents, lard forty cents, syrup five
dollars per gallon, cheese seventy-five cents, coffee
seventy-five cents, brown sugar forty-five cents,
butter sixty cents, milk fifty cents per quart, best
cigars fifty cents each, printing paper sixty-eight
cents per pound, daily paper, per year, twenty-four
dollars, weekly seven dollars, brooms one dollar,
molasses four dollars and a half per gallon, boots
fourteen dollars per pair, common labor, per day,
five dollars. • And here are some of the latest
Montana prices, twelve hundred miles farther on:
Flour fifty to sixty cents a pound, hams seventy-five
cents, golden syrup eight dollars, cheese one dol-
lar, crackers ninety cents, beans fifty cents, wood
twelve to fifteen dollars per cord, lumber one huii-
dred dollars per thousand. The high price and ter-
rible quality of whisky and other liquors in all these
distant Territories are operating as a very effective

L..

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

temperance agent. I see very little of them or of
their effects anywhere.

Some of the vernacular of the mountains is suf-
ficiently original and amusing to be reported, also.
A "square" meal is the common term for a first
rate one; "shebang" means any kind of an estab-
lishment, store, house, shop, shanty; '^outfit" has a
wider range, your handkerchief, your suit of clothes.
the cut of your hair, your team, your whole posses-
sions, or the most infinitesimal part or item there-
of; and "affidavit" signifies anything else that these
other terms do not cover.

FRC

the

rid<

the

see

It i

Ind

free

to!

hav

bro

con

pro

all'

ery

froi

the

NENT.

little of them or of

; mountains is suf-
be reported, also,
)n term for a first
Y kind of an estab-
ity; '[outfit" has a
^our suit of clothes,
your whole posses-
part or item there-
hing else that these

LETTER VII.

FROM DENVER TO SALT LAKE— THROUGH THE
ROCKY MOUNTAINS.

Salt Lake City, June 12.
We finished early yesterday (Sunday) morning
the second and severest third of the great stage-
ride across the Continent. We are now two-thirds
the way to California, and the rest of the journey
seems easy compared to what has been |MW5ed over.
It is through a more peopled country, frtSer from
Indian raids, and will be relieved to us by more
frequent resting-places. The distance from Denver
to Salt Lake City is six hundred miles ; we should
have driven it in five days but for the Indians, who
broke in upon the line before us and cleaned it out
of horses for fifty miles, threw the country into
confusion and travel into anxiety, and delayed our
pr9gress for two or three days, so that we were in
all seven days in the trip. But we just escaped
more severe possible disaster; for the "pesky sar-
pints," as they are not unnaturally reckoned by ev-
erybody in the West, hovered close upon both our
front and our rear ; our escort drove off a band of
them who wfire attacking a train of repentant r. .cl

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

returning Mormons, right in our path ; and they
swooped in upon a stage station the night after we
passed it, stole all its horses, killed the two stock-
tenders, also three of the five soldiers who were
located there as guard, and severely if not mortally
wounded the other two. But though our escort
was small over this line, never over ten cavalrymen,
and sometimes none at all, our coach came through
unmolested.

Whether these fresh Indian inroads in this quar-
ter presage a general Indian war, are by pretended
friendly tribes or those known to be inJni^ai, are
mainly for getting supplies of horses, which has
seemed to be the principal object, or inspired by
general hate and bloodthirstiness, or, so far as they
have fallen upon the "Josephites" or deserting Mor-
mons, have been directed by some of the leaders of
the Latter Day Saints here to put a stop to this
sort of depletion of their power and population;
whether they are by petty straggling bands, led by
desperate white robbers, or are the advance couriers
of all the warlike tribes of the Plains and the Moun-
tains, — there is only one course to be pursued with
regard to them, and that General Connor is now
doing with lew energy. He will guard and patro/
the whole n ain overland road, as he has been do'
ing the lower part of it, with cavalrymen and in-
fantry, and give an escort to every stage ; from tht
military posts, every one hundred to two hundred
miles along the route, he will send out scouting
parties to track up the marauders ; if the raids and
murders can be traced to friendly tribes, as has

%■

PJENT,

r path; and they
the night after we
led the two stock-
soldiers who were
ely if not mortally
though our escort
er ten cavalrymen,
>ach came through

roads in this quar-
, are by pretended
be inJni^ai, are
lorses, which has
ct, or inspired by
, or, so far as they
or deserting Mor-
e of the leaders of
)ut a stop to this
■ and population;
ling bands, led by
5 advance couriers
ins and the Moun-

be pursued with
il Connor is now

guard and patro/
5 he has been do-
valrymen and in-
y stage ; from tht

1 to two hundred
end out scouting
; if the raids and
lly tribes, as has

THE INDIAN QUESTION.

been done in one or two cases, he will demand those
eht,aged in it, and failing to get them will seize and
hang some of the principal chiefs;— he will re-
taliate quickly and sharply; and then, with a large
force, now gathering at Fort Laramie, he will go in
pursuit of the great body of the hostile Indians in
the North, and inflict upon them a sharp punish-
ment ;— and so conveying to them all the knowledge
of our power and purpose to make them peaceable,
do the best and only thing to secure their friend-
liness. The government is ready to assist in their
support, to grant them reservations, to give them
food and make them presents; but it must and
will, with sharp hand, enforce their respect to travel,
their respect to lives and property, and their respect
to trade throughout all this region.

And if this cannot be secured, short of their utter
extermination, why extermination it must be.. Else,
we may as well a,bandon this whole region ; give up
its settlement, its subjugation to civilization, its de-
velopment to wealth and Christianity. It is the
old eternal contest between barbarism and civiliza-
tion, between things as they have been and are, and
material and moral progress; and barbarism and
barbarity must go to the wall, somewhat too roughly
perhaps, as is always the case with new, earnest,
material communities, but yet certainly. The Mor-
mons have exhausted -the Quaker policy towards
the Indians ; have fed and clothed them for years,
paying them in all ways heavy subsidies, in consid-
eration of being let alone ; but they are growing
tired of it, both because it is expensive, and is not

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

sure of success. Only a few clays ago, some In-
ilians attacked the Mormons at a settlement about
eighty miles south of here, and kilV'd '-ighteen or
twenty persons. Brigham Yc( .; id either offi-
cials of Church and State v/cnt dc- • ' investigate
the matter and restore peace ; they have just come
back, reporting success, and laying part of the
blame on the whites, but still with less of the old
disposition to subsidize the barbarians.

Montana is disturbed with reports of Indian out-
rages ; this whole region of mountains and plains
is sensitive and suffering with the apprehensions or
the realities of their general recurrence ; commerce
suffers ; prices go up ; emigration stops ; and all
the development of the great West is clogged. No
wonder is it, then, that the entire white population
of the Territories clamors for positive measures of
restraint and punishment. The red man of reality
is not the red man of poetry, romance, or philan-
thropy. He is false and barbaric, cunning and
cowardly, attacking only when all advantage is with
him, horrible in cruelty, the terror of women and
children, impenetrable to nearly every motive but
fear, impossible to regenerate and civilize. The
whites may often be unjust and cruel in turn ; but
the balance is far against the Indian ; and the
country must sustain the government and General
Connor in pursuing a vigorous offensive and defen-
sive policy towards him.

Do not suppose, however, we lost sleep or rations,
or eyes for passing scenery, as we rolled over the
mountains, and passed the divide between the great

ocea
own
inim
Govi
amo;
marl
we c
baco
gest;
for <
vegc
time
to so
bour
awaj
der
succ
tend
Tl
are 1
bran
thel
The
four
rarei
then-
fish -
ver £
at th
Hall
whic
moui

SIENT.

ays ago, some In-
a settlement about
killed f-ightcen or
•,, id other offi-
c » ' investigate
ey iuve just come
tying part of the
ith less of the old
arians.

orts of Indian out-
Lintains and plains
e apprehensions or
rrence; commerce
ion stops ; and all
;st is clogged. No
e white population
»sitive measures of
red man of reality
omance, or philan-
laric, cunning and
1 advantage is with
tor of women and
r every motive but
and civilize. The
cruel in turn ; but
Indian ; and the
iment and General
»ffensive and defen-

ost sleep or rations,
we rolled over the
e between the great

THE ANTELOI'E AND TKOl'T.

oceans of America. Wc rested proifdly on our
own prowess and the rifles of our escort. We had
immense faith in the double-barreled shot-gun of
Governor IJross; and we created terrible alarm
among some emigrants in our rear by firing at a
mark in our front. So we ate our antelope, when
we could get it, and our "mountain chicken" (fried
bacon) regularly, with faith in its undisturbed di-
gestion, and cuddled up each in his corner at night
for equally reliable sleep. The canned fruits and
vegetables and clean table-cloths disappeared for a
time after Virginia Dale, but the antelope came in
to soften the fall ; one of our escort shot one of the
bounding beauties as he stopped, five hundred yards
away, to gaze through his limpid, liquid eyes in won-
der on our turn-out; and we found him and his
successors most luscious eating — very delicate deer,
tender, melting and digestible.

The antelopes weigh from sixty to eighty pounds,
are fawn-like in color and appearance, have short,
branching horns, and are plenty at all seasons upon
the high plains and in the mountains of the region.
The elk, as large as a small cow, and with horns
four to six feet long, and the black-tailed deer are
rarer game; this is not the season for shooting
them ; and they cling closer to the mountains. Of
fish we had but few ; trout were as abundant as fe-
ver and ague in Indiana, but always a little way off,
at the next brook or station. The soldiers at Fort
Halleck had just made captive a cinnamon bear,
which strayed down into camp from an adjoining
mountain; and our stage gave a wide berth to a

_j,-*u---

ACROSU TUB CONTINENT.

grizzly bear, which was taking his midnight nap in
the middle of the road. The grizzly was the only
animal that our courage and our double-barreled
shot-gun were not equal to ; and he is, indeed, next
to the Indian, the terror of all hunters. We missed,
too, the .sage hen, a favorite game of the region, but
not of the season ; rabbits scented our approach
and scooted away out of shot ; the retreat of the
hungry, thievy-looking woU" was hastened by our
balls ; only the ridiculous little prairie dogs and the
funnier and littler squirrels — beautifully striped with
black, and hardly bigger \.h.:n a mouse — sported
carelessly in our warlike f. esence.

The scant, coarse vegetation of the Plains and
of Denver's neighborhood grew green and rich in
out memory, as we came on north and west from
Virginia Dale, entered the Laramie Plains, passed
along on the snow line, crossed the mountain range
at Fridger's Pass, and went out upon the country
of the Bitter Creek. The Desert of the Mountains
is far drearier and more barren than the Desert of
the Plains. That seems redeemable and has its
uses ; this is only for trying the patience and tax-
ing the ingenuity of man. There is very little to
redeem the middle two hundred miles of our ride
from utter worthlessness for human service. The
soil is sand, so saturated with alkali as to poison its
water, and to give the earth the appearance, in spots,
sometimes for large areas, of a fresh hoar frost or a
slight snow. Grass is only a spasmodic tuft. The
sage bush is the chief, almost only vegetation —
a coarse, wild form of our garden sage, growing

^^bb.

<ENT.

is midnipht nap in
izzly was the only
ar double-barreled
he is, indeed, next
Iters. We missed,
: of the region, but
ited our approach
the retreat of the
i hastened by our
•airic dogs and the
itifuUy striped with
a mouse — sported
e.

of the Plains and
green and rich in
•th and west from
nic Plains, passed
le mountain range
upon the country
t of the Mountains
han the Desert of
nable and has its
patience and tax-
re is very little to
miles of our ride
nan service. The
ali as to poison its
ipearance, in spots,
2sh hoar frost or a
smodic tuft. The
only vegetation —
len sage, growing

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

1.0

■ 50 ^^"

I.I

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■ 40

1 2.5
2.2

lUI

1 i.25 1 1.4 1 1.6

Photographic

Sciences

Corporation

73 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, N.Y. 14S80

(716)872-4503

CIHM/ICMH

Microfiche

Series.

CIHM/ICMH
Collection de
microfiches.

Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions / Institut Canadian de microreproductions historiques

M^MMM^^-

THE DESERT OF BITTER CREEK. y^

rugged and rough from one to three feet high ; yet
mules and cattle sometimes will eat it because they
must or die, and it does make quick, hot fire for the
emigrants' and wagon-drivers' kettles— but think of
savoring your food with soap and sage tea ; think of
putting a soap factory and an apothecary shop into
one room, and that ^our kitchen ! Through all this
inhospitable, barren region, there are no buildings "
save the stage stations ; no inhabitants but the .
stock-tender and the station-keeper ; an occasional
tented wigwam of half-breed or father of half-breeds
stands by a stream: we pass with pity the emi-
grant's slow wagon and the mule train— hot and
dusty and parched by day, cold and shivering and
parched by night ;— it is a wonder how people can
go alive through this country at the rate of only
twelve and fifteen miles a day, and finding food and
dnnk as they go. B\it they do, year by year, thou-
sands by thousands. Shall the Indian still add to
the horrors of the passage, as he has and does.?

The road, too, grows rough ; sluices and gulches
are frequent and deep; rocks begin to abound; and
the stage staggers about in a way frightful to all
exposed parts of the body. Yet we do not seem to
be gomg over the highest range of mountains in the
country; we are passing rather through hardly per-
ceptible rising valleys; and though the mountains
that guard us on either side grow nearer and lower
to us, they always seem to be above us rather than
under us. Striking the North Platte, as it first
comes out of the mountains, but rough and rapid as
are all the streams of the mountains at this season

ACRO?S THE CONTINENT.

of melting snow, and some thousand miles from
where we parted company with it at Julcsburg on
the Plains, to follow its southern sister to Denver:
we enter upon the night ride through Bridger's Pass,
from the Atlantic to the Pacific slopes of the Rocky
Momitains. You need to be told what you are do-
ing There is no slow hill-climbing; the horses
trot the stage along; and the soldier escort gallop
behind. Not through valleys still, but apparently
along and up the beds of departed rivers, with
mountain walls on either hand,— sometimes ten or
twenty miles wide, and again narrowing to rods,
but oftenest miles in width; on one side bare, per-
pendicular walls of rock, thrown into all imagmable
and unscientific combinations of the origmal or
sub-original formations, and since carved and fluted
by wind and sand and rain into all and every shape
that architecture ever created, or imagination fan-
cied- on the other, rounded hill-side with scant
verdure and occasional stunted tree and frequent
snow-bank. Not in one continuous bed or valley,
wc. ur upward course, but a succession of such,
leading one into another. ,

So we rode on through the clear twilight, that
lingers till nine and ten o'clock in this region, into
the rich moonlight that only gave new form and
beauty to the rocks, and out into the morning dawn
that hastens on at two to three; watching the wa-
ter to see which way it ran, and building Pacific
Railroads along these easy grades back to home and
forward to fame and fortune. I was in the saddle,
<ralloping with the captain of the escort; but the

carlii

IIlin(

shou

wint(

vast 1

of th

diffic

mal ]

was 1

saddl

and i

and J

and (

curioi

mirac

low Ci

as to

and c

But t

somet

work

fantas

valley

plain,

cathec

ing is(

family

long li

formec

again

JENT.

)usantl miles from
it at Julcsburg on

sister to Denver:
ugh Bridger's Pass,
lopes of the Rocky
d what you are do-
nbing; the horses
oldicr escort gallop
till, but apparently
parted rivers, with
—sometimes ten or
narrowing to rods,

one side bare, per-
1 into all imaginable

of the original or
:e carved and fluted

all and every shape
or imagination fan-
hill-side with scant
i tree and frequent
tiuous bed or valley,

succession of such,

I clear twilight, that
I in this region, into
gave new form and
:o the morning dawn
e ; watching the wa-
and building Pacific
ies back to home and
I was in the saddle,
the escort ; but the

THE ARCHITECTURE OF THE WINDS. 75

earlier and more enthusiastic lieutenant-govetnor of
Illinois, who kept guard with the driver on the box,
shouted out the passage over the line— it was no
more than a " thank-ye-marm " in a New England's
winter sleigh-ride, yet it separates the various and
vast waters of a Continent, and marks the fountains
of the two great oceans of the globe. But it was
difficult to be long enthusiastic over this infinitesi-
mal point of mud ; the night was very cold, and I
was sore in unpoetical parts from unaccustomed
saddles, and I ?:ot down from all my high horses,
and into my comer of the stage, at the next station.'
The effect of the high winds and blowing sands
and sharp rains of this region upon the soft rock
and clay of some of these hills, is certainly very
curious. These agencies have proved wonderful
miracle-workers. Wind-augers Mr. Fitzhugh Lud-
low called them, I believe ; but some of his stories
as to their performances are purely imaginative,
and only excite ridicule among the mountaineers.
But the tall, isolated rocks, that surmount a hill,
sometimes round, but always even and smooth as
work of finest chisel; the immense columns and
fantastic figures upon the walls of rock that line a
valley for miles ; the solitary mountains upon the
plain, fashioned like fortresses, or rising like Gothic
cathedral, and called duties (a French word signify-
ing isolated hill or mountain), separated from their
family in some great convulsion of nature; the
long lines of rock embankment, one above another,
formed sometimes into squares like a vast fort, and
again running along for miles, a hundred feet above

I ,

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

the valley, looking like the most perfect of railroad
embankment, with the open space occasionally for a
water course ;— these and kindred original fashions
of nature, with details indescribable and picturesque,
constitute the sole redeeming feature for scenery of
the country I have been describing, and arc a con-
stant excitement and inspiration to the traveler.

One of the most curious single specimens of this
natural architecture, that we passed on our road
down the Pacific slope, is called "The Church
Butte," and is familiar to all overland travelers. At
a distance, it looms up on the level plain, a huge,
ill-shapen hill ; near by, it appears the most mar-
velous counterfeit of a half-ruined, gigantic, old-
world Gothic cathedral, that can be imagined. We
stopped before it just as the sun had gone down in
the west, and as the full moon came up the eastern
horizon, and the soft, contrasting lights, deepening
slowly into shadowy dimness, gave exquisite devel-
opment to the manifold shapes and the beautiful
and picturesque outlines, that rock and clay had
assumed. The Milan or the Cologne cathedral,
worn with centuries, ill-shapen with irregular de-
cay, could not have looked more the things they are
or would be. than this did. Everything belonging
to the idea was there in some degree of preserva^
tion. Porch, nave, transept, steeple, caryatides,
monster animals, saints and apostles, with broken
columns, tumbled roof, departed nose or foot, worn
and crumbling features, were all in their places, or
a little out, but recognizable and nameable. We
walked around this vast natural cathedral of sand-

stoni
our
light
any
won(
or fa
me f
F'l
thicli
how
refin
and
over,
the {
theh
v/ith
in w]
sies i
realij
ness(
of al
phen
rocks
ever)
it at
.Ther
rado
from
glass
am on
Platt(
apprt

I ,

KENT.

perfect of railroad
:e occasionally for a
;d original fashions
ale and picturesque,
iture for scenery of
ling, and are a con-
i to the traveler,
e specimens of this
tassed on our road
died "The Church
rland travelers. At
level plain, a huge,
ears the most mar-
lined, gigantic, old-
1 be imagined. We
n had gone down in
came up the eastern
ng lights, deepening
^ave exquisite devel-
;s and the beautiful
rock and clay had
Cologne cathedral,
n with irregular de-
e the things they are
;verything belonging
degree of preserva-
steeple, caryatides,
ipostles, with broken
2d nose or foot, worn
all in their places, or
and nameable. We
ral cathedral of sand-

'THE CHURCH BUTTE.

stone and clay — a full half mile — and greater grew
our wonder, our enthusiasm. The hour and the
light were certainly propitious ; but viewed unda-
any light, it is certainly one of the great natural
wonders of the Continent, and is chief among three
or four things that have already abundantly repaid
me for this long journey.

Flowing out from the Butte on all sides was a
thick solid stream of fine stone and clay, that told
how the work was done, how it was going on still,
refining, pointing, carving, chiseling, but gradually
and surely leveling, as all mountains, the world
over, are being leveled, and the whole surface of
the globe made one vast plain. The share which
the high winds and the sand they take up and blow
v/ith powerful force in right lines, and in curves, and
in whirls, have in this great work, both in its fanta-
sies and in its destruction, is such as can hardly be
realized by those who have not experienced or wit-
nessed them. Sand showers or sand whirlpools are
of almost daily occurrence. They load the atmos-
phere with sand ; they carry it everywhere ; among
rocks, into houses, through walls, into the bodies of
everything animate and inanimate, and there keep
it at its work of destruction and reconstruction.
, There is a window among the mountains of Colo-
rado that a single storm of this sort has changed
from common glass into the most perfect of ground
glass ; and the fantastic architecture of its creation
among the rocks of the country, from the North
Platte to Fort Bridger, can only be understood and
apprecia*^ed by being seen.

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

As we approached Fort Bridger, the country
grew fairer— sage bush gave way to grass; the
streams became purer; timber lined the water
courses; and the land became bearable indeed.
Fort Bridger is an old and pleasantly located post ;
a fresh river runs through the camp >ard; the val-
ley looks sweet and green in June; and back rise
the always beautiful and always snow-covered moun-
tains. Here we stopped, had kind greeting at two
o'clock in the morning, went to bed for the first
time in a week, and after a sumptuous breakfast
with :uJge Carter, the merchant and magistrate of
the precinct, passed on and over inio the basin of
the Great Salt Lake. But that day's ride, and our
reception and experiences among the Mormons
must wait another letter.

We remain here for a full week. The grass is
too green r the trees too new to our eyes; the
roses too red and refreshing; Che strawberries and
green pens too tempting to our carnal appetites;
the curious social and wonderful material develop-
ments of this city and Territory too rare and re-
markable; and the hospitality of the people. Mor-
mon and Gentile, too generous and invitmg, to per-
mit us to leave hurriedly.

THI

hith

la.ic

for

Coh

Gre;

Con

inde

coui

now

its ]

and

thes

thin

bles

hom

elenc

and

that

the

i- ,

4ENT.

dgcr, the country
/ay to grass; the
• lined the water
I bearable indeed,
antly located post ;
imp ) ard ; the val-
une ; and back rise
now-covered moun-
ind greeting at two
o bed for the first
imptuous breakfast
t and magistrate of
er into the basin of
day's ride, and our
ong the Mormons

reek. The grass is
to our eyes; the
he strawberries and
ir carnal appetites;
x\ material develop-
iry too rare and re-
of the people, Mor-
and inviting, to per-

LETTER VIII.

THE WAV INTO UTAH : RECEPTION BY THE MOR-
MONS.

Great Salt Lakb C:ty, Utah, June 14.
Leaving Fort Bridger for our last day's ride
hither, we leave the first Pacific slopes and table-
lands of the Rocky Mountains, drained to the south
for the Colorado River and to the north for the
Columbia, and go over the rim of the basin of the
Great Salt Lake, and enter that Continent within ?,
Continent, with its own miniature salt sea, and its
independent chain of mountains, and distinct river
courses ; marked wonderfully by nature, and marked
now as wonderfully in the history of civilization by
its people, their social and religious organization,
and their material development. This is Utah —
these the Mormons. I do not marvel that they
think they are a chosen people ; that they have been
blessed of God not only in the selection of their
home, which consists of the richest region, in all the
elements of a State, between the "Mississippi valley
and the Pacific shore, but in the great success
that has attended their labors, and developed here
the most independent and self-sustaining industry

mmm

mmmm

\ ,

ACROSS TllK CONTINENT.

that the western half of our Continent witnesses.
Surely threat worUUy wisdom has presideil over iheir
settlement and ort^anization ; there have been tact
and statesmanship in the leaders ; there have been
industry, frugality and inte^jrity in the people; or
one could not witness such progress, such wealth,
such varied triumphs of industry atid ingenuity and
endurance, as here present themselves.

Wc enter Utah over and among a new scries of
hills, the belongings of the Wasatch Mountains,
the first of the subsidiary ranges of the Rocky
Mountains, and the eastern guard and parent of the
Salt Lake valley. We have our finest day's ride
yet along the crests of hills eight thousand feet
high, and thn .gh valleys and gorges guarded by
perpendicular walls of rock, all rich with a .spring
verdure that is fresh and grateful to our eyes. We
play at snow ball from the large white drifts that
lie along our road ; and we pick abundant flowers
at the same time. These spring up quickly with
the grass, watered by melting snow, and inspired
by the sun's hot heat ; for twice hot ft is compared
with our eastern sun, in these high western regions.
Some are new to mine eyes; many wear familiar
faces, though greatly modified by change of soil
and climate ; and above all other colors, the yellow
predominates. Did you ever think this the favorite
color of nature? What other clothes your mead-
ows and these hills with buttercups and dandelions
till green is out-borne by yellow? What other has
more varieties of plants in its list — more shades in its
blossoming? Here I find new ones ; among others

fittlc

to a

pasli

resp(

we n

in it!

sceni

and '

snow

ness

mom

sevei

of a

plunj

ter u

rrvora

so th

bruis

actin,

inac

and s

neck

pling

dizzy

scene

throu

ley ir

ruins

the T

marcl

went

KNT.

itincnt witnesses,
resided over tlieir
re have been tact
there have been
in the people; or
ress, such wealth,
itid ingenuity and
elves.

ig a new scries of
satch Mountains,
es of the Rocky
and parent of the
• finest day's ride
jht thousand feet
orgcs guarded by
ich with a .spring
to our eyes. We
white drifts that
abundant flowers
g up quickly with
now, and inspired
hot ft is compared
h western regions,
lany wear familiar
by change of soil
colors, the yellow
ik this the favorite
lothes your mead-
ips and dandelions
' What other has
-more shades in its
les; among others

ECHO CANYON.

fittlc sun flowers, a foot high, three i four blossoms
to a plant, and plants as tiiick as j itains by the
pasture path. Let us treat yellow, i hen. with more
respect, since it is nature's chosen ; and learn, as
we may, what variety and range of beauty there is
in its shades.

So we rolled rapidly through summer and wintci
scenes, with sky of blue and air of amber purity,
and when the round moon came up out from the
snowy peaks, giving indescribable richness and soft-
ness to their whiteness, we kept on and on, now up
mountain sides, now along the edge df precipices
several hundred feet high, down which the stumble
of a horse or the error of a wheel would have
plunged us ; now crossing swollen streams, the wa-
ter up to the coach doors, now stammering through
morass and mire, plunging down and bounding up
so that we passengers, instead of sleeping, were
bruising heads and tangling legs and arms in en-
acting the tragedy of pop-rorn over a hot fir^ -"nd
in a closed dish ; and now from up among the clouds
and snow, we tore down a narrow canyon at a break-
neck rate, escaping a hundred over-turns and top-
pling on the river's brink until the head swam with
dizzy apprehensions. Most picturesque of all the
scenes of this day and night ride v s the passage
through Echo Canyon, a very miniature Rhine val-
ley in all but vines and storied ruin. The only
ruins in' it were those of feeble fortifications which
the Mormons set up when President Buchanan
marched his army against them, but halted and
went away without attack, leaving storCs of pro-
4* 6

wmmmmmmmsm «?«■

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

visions, wagons and ammunition, and a contempt for
the government, neither of which the Mormons have
quite exhausted yet. Early "sun-up" brought us
to the last station, kept by a Mormon bishop with
four wives, who gave us bitters and breakfast, the
latter with green peas and strawberries, and then,
leaving wife number one at his home, went on with
us into the city for parochial visits to the other three,
who are located at convenient distances around the
Territory.

Finally we came out upon the plateau or " bench,"
as they call it here, that overlooks the valley of the
Jordan, the valley alike of Utah Lake and the Great
Salt Lake, and the valley of the intermediate Great
Salt Lake City. It is a scene of rare natural
beauty. To the right, upon the plateau, lay Camp
Douglas, the home of the soldiers and a village in
itself, holding guard over the town, and within easy
cannon range of tabernacle and tithing-house ; right
beneath, in an angle of the plain, which stretched
south to Utah Lake and west to the Salt Lake-
land Jordan rolled between,"— was the city, regu-
larly and handsomely laid out, with many fine build-
ings, and filled with thick gardens of trees and
flowers, that gave it a fairy-land aspect; beyond
and across, the plain spread out five to ten miles
in width, with scattered farm-houses and herds of
cattle ; below, it was lost in dim distance ; above, it
gave way, twenty miles off, to the line of light that
marked the beginning of Salt Lake — the whole flat
m a floor and sparkling with river and irrigating
cStials, and overlooked on both sides by hills that

■"SPB^ LU

JENT.

and a contempt for
the Mormons have
in-up" brought us
)rmon bishop with
and breakfast, the
^berries, and then,
lome, went on with
} to the other three,
stances around the

plateau or " bench,"
cs the valley of the
Lake and the Great
intermediate Great
le of rare natural
plateau, lay Camp
:rs and a village in
vn, and within easy
ithing-housc ; right
in, which stretched
Lo the Salt Lake —
-was the city, regu-
ith many fine build-
rdens of trees and
nd aspect; beyond
It five to ten miles
lOuses and herds of
I distance ; above, it
he line of light that
^ake — the whole flat
river and irrigating
1 sides by hills that

SALT LAKE CITV. 83

mounted to the snow line, and out from which flowed
tiie fatness of water and soil tliut makes this once
desert valley blossom under the hand of industry
with every variety of verdure, every product of
almost every clime.

No internal city of the Continent lies in such a
field of beauty, unites such rich and raie elements
of nature's formations, holds such guarantees of
greatness, material and social, in the good time
coming of our Pacific development. I met all along
the Plains and over the mountains, the feeling that
Salt Lake was to be the great central city of this
West ; I found the map, with Montana, Idaho, and
Oregon on the north, Dacotah and Colorado on the
east, Nevada and California on the west, Arizona
on the south, and a near connection with the sea by
the Colorado River in the latter direction, suggested
the same : I recognized it in the Sabbath rnorning
picture of its location and possessions; I am con-
vinced of it as I see more and more of its opportu-
nities, its developed industries, and its unimproved
possessions.

Mr. Colfax's reception in Utah was excessive if
not oppressive. There was an element of rivalry
between Mormon and Gentile in it, adding earnest-
ness and energy to enthusiasm and hospitality.
First "a troop cometh," with band of music, and
marched us slowly and dustily through their Camp
Douglas. Then, escaping these, our coach was way-
laid as it went down the hl'l by the Mormon au-
thorities of the city. They ordered us to dismount ;
we were individually introduced to each of twenty

L. ^

ACR .^S THE CONTINENT,

of them ; we received a long speech ; we made a
long one — standing in the hot sand with a sun of
forty thousand Icns-powcr concentrated upon us,
tired and dirty with a week's coach-ride: was it
wonder that the mildest of tempers rebelled? —
transferred to other carriages, our hosts drove us
through the city to the hotel ; and then — bless their
Mormon hearts — they took us at once to a hot sul-
phur bath, that nature liberally offers just on the
confines of the city, and there we washed out all
remembrance of the morning suffering and all the
accumulated grime and fatigue of the journey, and
came out baptized in freshness and self-respect.
Clean clothes, dinner, the Mormon tabernacle in
the afternoon, and a Congregational ("Gentile")
meeting and sermon in the evening, were the other
proceedings of our first day in Utah.

Since, and still contihuing, Mr. Colfax and his
friends have been the recipients of a generous and
thoughtful hospitality. They are the guests of the
city; but the military authorities and citizens vie
together as well to please their visitors and make
them pleased with Utah and its people. The Mor-
mons are eager to prove their loyalty to the gov-
ernment, their sympathy with its bereavement, their
joy in its final triumph— which their silence or their
slants and sneers heretofore had certainly put in
some doubt — and they leave nothing unsaid or un-
done now, towards Mr. Colfax as the representative
of that government, or towards the public, to give
assurance of their rightmindedness. Also they
wish us to know that they are not monsters and

mure
mam
on h
rest,
wise
a gn
socia
genci
pitali
grcer
apric
ever
enad(
with
what
ment
has t
to th(
comji
home
Bros5
dress
"dist
mutu
W<

Salt :

you f

nicke

men

to be

Engl;

turne

\ .

INT.

ech ; we made a
nd with a sun of
ntrated upon us,
lach-ride : was it
pers rebelled? —
r hosts drove us
then — bless their
ance to a hot sul-
>ffers just on the
e washed out all
fering and all the
the journey, and
and self-respect,
ion tabernacle in
onal ("Gentile")
ig, were the other
;ah.

r. Colfax and his
)f a generous and
the guests of the
; and citizens vie
/isitors and make
eople. The Mor-
:)yalty to the gov-
jereavement, their
-Mr silence or their
1 certainly put in
ling unsaid or un-
the representative
the public, to give
ness. Also they
not monsters and

PICNIC AT SALT LAKE.

»5

murderers, but men of intelligence, virtue, good
manners and fine tastes. They put their polygamy
on high moral and religious grounds ; and for the
rest, anyhow, are not willing to be thought other-
wise than our peers. And certainly we do find here
a great deal of true and good human nature and
social culture ; a great deal of business intelli-
gence and activity ; a great deal of generous hos-
pitality — besides most excellent strawberries and
green peas, and the most promising orchards of
apricots, peaches, plums and apples that these eyes
ever beheld anywhere. They have given us a ser-
enade ; and Mr. Colfax has addressed them at length
with his usual tact and happy effect, telling them
what they have a right to expect from the govern-
ment, and reminding them that the government
has the right to demand from them, in turn, loyalty
to the Constitution and obedience to the laws, and
complimenting them on all the beauty of their
homes arid the thrift of their industry. Governor
Bross and Mr. Richardson also made happy ad-
dresses, and the jprowd of the evening, and the
"distinguished guests" gave every sign of being
mutually pleased with each other.

We have been t;iken on an excursion to the Great
Salt Lake, bat.i.\: m its wonderful wate/s, on which
you float like a cork, sailed on its surface, and pic-
nicked by its shore, — if picnic can be without wo-
men for sentiment and to spread table-cloth, and
to be helped up and over rocks. Can you New
Englanders fancy a " stag" picnic .' We have been
turned loose in the big strawberry patch of one of

•

ACIiO^o THE CONTINENT.

the saints— very worldly strawberries and more
worldly appetites met and mingled ; and we have
had a peep into a moderate Mormon harem, but
being introduced to two different women of the
same name, one after another, was more than I
could stand without blushing.

In Mormon etiquette. President Brigham Young
is called upon ; by Washington fashion, the Speaker
is also called upon, and does not call— there was a
question whether the distinguished resident and the
distinguislKJ visitor would meet; Mr. Colfax, as
was meet under the situation of affairs here, made
a point upon it, and gave notice he should not call ;
whereupon President Brigham yielded the question,
and graciously came to-day with a crowd of high
dignitaries of the church, and made, not one of
Emerson's prescribed ten minute calls, but a gen-
erous, pleasant, gossiping sitting of two hours long.
He is a very hale and hearty looking man, young
for sixty-four, with a light gray eye, cold and uncer-
tain, a mouth and chin betraying a great and deter-
mined will— handsome perhaps as to presence and
features, but repellent in atmosphere and without
magnetism. In conversation, he is cool and quiet
in manner, but suggestive in expression ; has strong
and original ideas, but uses bad grammar. He was
rather formal, but courteous, and at the last affected
frankness and freedom, if he felt it not. To his
followers, I observed he was master of* that pro-
found art of eastern politicians, which consists in
^tting the arm affectionately around them, and
tenderly inquiring for health of selves and familie," •

and
was
feet

C
the
spei
hen
hail
aK
like
tura
of c
ciat
ges1
Bos
con
in ii
Yor
toll
as i
fath
mer
sam
wee
chill
to s
miu

B
the
are
citiz
■:ult

<ENT.

berries and more
;lecl; and we have
ormon harem, but
int women of the
was more than I

It Brigham Young
ishion, the Speaker
t call — there was j»
ed resident and the
et; Mr. Colfax, as
affairs here, made
he should not call ;
ielded the question,
h a crowd of high
made, not one of
te calls, but a gen-
; of two hours long,
ooking man, young
;ye, cold and uncer-
g a great and deter-
as to presence and
sphere and without
le is cool and quiet
>ression ; has strong
grammar. He was
i at the last affected
felt it not. To his
naster of* that pro-
3, which consists in
' around them, and
selves and familie," •

HEDER KIMBALL, ET AL.

and when his eye did sparkle and his lips soften, it
was with most cheering, though not warming, ef-
fect — it was pleasant but did not melt you.

Of his companions, Heber C. Kimball is perhaps
the most notorious from his vulgar and coarse
speech. He ranks high among the "prophets"
here, and is as unctuous in his manner as Macassar
hair oil, and as pious in phrase as good old Thomas
a Kempis. He has a very keen, sharp eye, and looks
like a Westfield man I always meet at the agricul-
tural fairs in Springfield. Dr. Bernhisel has an air
of culture and refinement peculiar among his asso-
ciates ; he is an old, small man, venerable, and sug-
gestive of John Quincy Adams, or Dr. Gannett of
Boston, in his style. Two or three others of the
company have fine faces — such as you would meet
in intellectual or business society in Boston or New
York, — but the strength of most of the party secftis
to lie in narrowness, bigotry, obstinacy. They look
as if they had lived on the same farms as their
fathers and grandfathers, and made no improve-
ments ; gone to the same church, and sat in the
same pew, without cushions; borrowed the same
weekly newspaper for forty years ; drove all their
children to the West or the cities ; and if they went
to agricultural fairs, insisted on having th"eir pre-
miums in pure coin.

But the hospitality of Utah is not confined to
the Mormons. The "Gentiles" or fton-Mormons
are becoming numerous and influential here, and,
citizens and soldiers, comprise many families *of
■culture and influence. They are made up of offi-

•^

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

cers of the federal government, resident represcn^
tatives of telegraph and stage lines, members of
eastern or California business firms having branches
here, and a very fair proportion, too, of the mer-
chants of the city. Some of the more intelligent
of the disgusted and repentant Mormons swell th^
circle. They have organized a literary association,
established a large and growing Sunday school,
largely made up of children of Mormon parents,
have weekly religious services led by the chaplain
at Camp Douglas, conduct an able and prosperous
daily paper (the Union Vedette,) and in every way
are developing an organized and effective opposition
to the dominant power here. These people, united,
earnest and enthusiastic as minorities always are,
claim a share in entertaining Mr. Colfax and his
friends, and gave them a large and most brilliant
social party last night. They are not reluctant to
show us their ladies, as the Mormons generally seem
to be, and their ladies are such, in beauty and cul-
ture, as no circle need be ashamed of The enjoy-
ment of this social entertainment of music, conver-
sation, dancing and refreshments, was sadly and
only broken by the announcement during the even-
ing of the sudden death of the territorial governor,
Judge Doty, formerly of Michigan and Wisconsin.

anion
all th(
Thel
rain, 1
ter of
busim
ficial
busin(
thousi
built I
versal
from t
the w;
the ga
numei
spreac
tween
Indivi
as a 1
water

2NT.

esidcnt represcn^
nes, members of
3 having branches
too, of the mer-
I more intelligent
[ormons swell th^
erary association,
f Sunday school,
Mormon parents,
I by the chaplain
e and prosperous
and in every way
ifective opposition
;se people, united,
irities always are,
r. Colfax and his
nd most brilliant
; not reluctant to
ms generally seeux
n beauty and cul-
d of. The enjoy-
of music, conver-
s, was sadly and
: during the even-
rritorial governor,
1 and Wisconsin.

LETTER IX.

MORMON MATERIALITIES.

Salt Lake Crrv, June i6.
The Necessity of all Agriculture, on the Plains,
among the Mountains, on the Pacific shore, nearly
all the western half of our Continent, is Irrigation,
The long, dry summers, frequently months without
rain, the hot sun and dry winds, the clayey charac-
ter of the soil, all ensure utter defeat to the farmer's
business, except he helps his crops to water by arfi-
ficial means. But in Utah, agriculture is the chief
business ; its population of one hundred and twenty
thousand inhabitants, live by it, prosper by it, have
built up a State upon it. Irrigation is, therefore, uni-
versal and extensive ; the streams that pour down
from the mountains are tapped at various ele'i'ations,
the water carried away by canals, big and little, to
the gardens and meadows cultivated, and thence, by
numerous little courses, one in three or four ttet,
spread over the whole extent, over the grain, be-
tween the rows of corn, of trees, of vegetables.
Individuals, villages, companies perform this work,
as a less or greater scale of it is required. The
water is apportioned among the takers according to

\ ^

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

theii land or their payments. Each one gets his
share ; and when the supply is scant, as is often the
case, each one suffers in like degree.

Salt Lake City is thus irrigated, mainly from one
mountain stream ; bright, sparkling brooks course
freely and constantly down its paved gutters, keep-
ing the shade trees alive and growing, supplying
drink for animals and water for household purposes,
and delightfully cooling the summer air; besides
being drawn off in right proportion for the use of
each garden. Once a week is the rule for thus
watering each crop ; to-day a man takes enough for
one portion of his garden ; to-morrow for another ;
and so through his entire possessions and the week.
Under this regular stimulus, with a strong soil made
up of the wash of the mountains, the finest of crops
are obtained ; the vegetable bottom lands of your
own Connecticut and of the western prairies cannot
vie with the products of the best gardens and farms
of these Pacific valleys, under this system of irriga-
tion. There needs to be rain enough in the spring
or winter moisture remaining to start the seeds,
and there generally is ; after that, the regular sup-
ply of water keeps the plants in a steady and rapid
growth, that may well be supposed to produce far
finer results, than the struggling, uneven progress
of vegetation under dependence upon the skies —
a week or a month of rain, and then a like pro-
longation of sunshine. The gardens m the cities
and villages are tropical in their rich greenness and
luxuriance. I do not believe the same space of
ground anywhere else in the country holds so much

And
Lak

T
to tl
very
over
once
on a
in tt
tion,
irrig
mus
for
that
no I
and
so p
vide
and
half
put
ent
fron
for i
and
a pG
irrig
lies

T
aboi
two
five

NENT.

Each one gets his
cant, as is often the
jree.

;d, mainly from one
:Ung brooks course
>aved gutters, keep-
growing, supplying
lousehold purposes,
immer air; besides
rtion for the use of
5 the rule for thus
an takes enough for
lorrow for another ;
sions and the week,
h a strong soil made
s, the finest of crops
)ttom lands of your
tern prairies cannot
t gardens and farms
his system of irriga-
nough in the spring
to start the seeds,
lat, the regular sup-
1 a steady and rapid
osed to produce far
ig, uneven progress
;e upon the skies —
nd then a like pro-
ardens m the cities
r rich greenness and
the same space of
untry holds so much

THE IRRIGATION IN UTAH.

Rnd so fine fruit and vegetables as the city of Salt
Lake to-day.

The soil of these valleys is especially favorable
to the small grains. Fifty and sixty bushels is a
very common crop of wheat, oats and barley ; and
over ninety have been raised. President Young
once raised ninety-three and a half bushels of wheat
on a single acre. I should say the same sod located
in the East, and taking its chances without irriga-
tion, would not produce half what it does here with
irrigation. Laborious and expensive as the process
must be, the large crops and high prices obtained
for them make it to pay. Over all this country,
that is forced to have an irrigated farming, there is
no business that now pays so well, not even mining,
and nowhere else in the whole Nation is agriculture
so profitable. But the mountain snows do not pro-
vide half the water the valleys need. Many a broad
and beautiful valley goes unredeemed from a dry,
half-barren vegetation, for the lack of water to be
put upon it. Salt Lake City has exhausted its pres-
ent supply, and now contemplates a grand canal
from Utah Lake, thirty miles off, to provide water
for its extending gardens and the wide valley below
and beyond the city,— the most of which is now only
a poor and growing poorer pasture, but which with
irrigation will become as productive farming land as
lies under the shadow of the Republic.

The country drained by the Great Salt Lake is
about one hundred and fifty miles east and west, and
two hundred and fifty north and south. Four or
five large streams of fresh water pour into it ; but it

1; i

\ ^

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

has not a single visible outlet, and its water is one-
fourth solid salt — two mysteries that mock science
and make imagination ridiculous. Other salt is
found in the country ; there is a mountain of rock
salt a few miles away; and below i» i.rizona is a
similar mountain whose salt is as pin-e as finest
glass. President Young showed us a brick of it to-
day, thi ' excited our surprise and delight as much as
any novelty we have seen on our journey. The Ter-
ritory of Utah covers the region drained by the Salt
Lake, and perhaps one hundred miles more both in
breadth and length. But the Mormon settlements
extend one hundred miles farther into Idaho on the
north, and perhaps two hundred miles into Arizona
on the south, clinging close, through their entire
lengtbi of six hundred to seven hundred miles, to a
narrow belt of country hardly more than fifty miles
wide ; for on the east of this are the mountains, and
to the west, the great Central American Desert, that
forms part of the great internal basin of this section
of the Continent, and leads the traveler on to the
Sierra Nevada mountains of the Pacific States.

Th^se settlements are mostly small, counting in-
habitants by hundreds, gathered about the course
of a mountain stream ; but there are several places
of considerable importance, as Provo at the South
and Ogden City at the North. Their extension
south into the valley of the Colorado, paves the way
to the successful working of a favorite commercial
idea of the leading business men here, which is the
use of the Gulf of California and tl^e Colorado River,
Which empties into it, for the great avenue of trade ;

for b
and
tural
ing.
stcar
hund
this 1
year,
roadi
over
throi
torru
adva
can
stear
chan
way
certa
pci«l
way
Hon
a ye£
time!
tal ai
Tl
confi
self-£
triou
blet
has 1
an ir
the \

1 ^

ENT.

d its water is one-
that mock science
s. Other salt is
mountain of rock
»w i» i.rizona is a
as pirre as finest
us a brick of it to-
delight as much as
ourney. The Ter-
Irained by the Salt
niles more both in
armon settlements

into Idaho on the
miles into Arizona
"ough their entire
lundred miles, to a
)re than fifty miles
the mountains, and
erican Desert, that
asin of this section
traveler on to the
Pacific States,
small, counting in-

about the course
: are several places
*rovo at the South
Their extension
ado, paves the way
ivorite commercial

here, which is the
l^e Colorado River,
it. avenue of trade ;

THE COLORADO ROUTE FOR COMMERCE.

for bringing in the supplies of goods needed here,
and for sending out such surplus products, agricul-
tural and mineral, as these interior valleys arc offer
ing. The Colorado is found to be navigable for
steamboats for four hundred miles, or to within six
hundred miles of this city, and the substitution of
this reduced distance of land carriage, open all the
year, through their own Territory, and up valley
roads, for seven hundred miles to San Francisco or
over one thousand miles to the Missouri River,
through deserts and over mountains, and often in-
terrupted by rivers, is a manifest improvement and
advantage for the commerce of this country, that
can hardly be overestimated. There are already
steamers on the Colorado, and some of the mer-
chants arc having goods come over the rowte by
way of experiment. If it succeeds, as seems quite
certain, then the heavy trade cf Utah and its de-
peiMencies will come and go from New York by
way of the Isthmus of Panama and around Cape
Horn, and merchants here, instead cf having to buy
a year's supply of goods at once, can market several
times a year, and do business with much less capi-
tal and at much greater advantage otherwise.

The policy of the Mormon leaders has been to
confine their people to agriculture; to develop a
self-sustaining, rural population, quiet, frugal, indus-
trious, scattered in small villages, and so managea-
ble by the church organization. So far, this policy
has been admirably successful ; and it has created
an industry and a^production here, in the center of
the western half of our Continent, of immense im-

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

portancc and value to the future growth of the re-
gion. A few of the simpler manufactures have
been introduced of late, but these arc not in conflict
with the general policy. There are three cotton
mills, confined to cotton yarns, however, almost ex-
clusively, and one woolen mill. Probably there
are a hundred flouring mills in the Territory also.
Flour, the grains, butter, bacon, dried peaches, home-
made socks and yarn, these arc the chief articles
produced in excess and sold to emigrants and for
the mining regions in the North. Probably two
hundred thousand pounds of dried peaches were
sold for Idaho and Montana last year. Hides are
plenty ; there is a good tannery here ; and also a
manufactory of boots and shoes. Cotton grows
abundantly in the southern settlements; and ex-
periments with flax, the mulberry tree and the silk
worm are all successful.

As to mining, the influence of the church^as
been against it. There have been no placer or sur-
face diggings discovered to offer temotations to the
mass of the people ; and the leadc i affect to be-
lieve that the ores so far found at.* not valuable
enough to pay for working. They have a reason
for discouraging mining, of course, in the sure con-
viction that it would introduce a population and
influences antagonistic to the order and power of
the church. Iron, they admit, exists in large quan-
tities, especially in the southern mountains, and
they have made some attempts to develop it, but
without great success, for the reason, as they say
that they had rot the proper workmen and materia ly

to d
inert
argu
than
try i;
silvc
dolla
Bi
cscei
moui
pcrhi
rics,
ists t
rival 1
cove:
with
have
cursi
vall<?
madt
been
mane
fornii
this
those
to in
the v
a hui
work
feet,
cral (
the c

NENT.

I prowth of the rc'
manufactures have
e arc not in conflict
c are three cotton
lowevcr, ahnost ex-
I. Probably there

the Territory also,
rietl peaches, home-
i the chief articles

emigrants and for
th. Probably two
Iricd peaches were
t year. Hides are
y here ; and also a
es. Cotton grows
:tlements ; and ex-
ry tree and the silk

of the church%as
en no placer or sur-

temotations to the
;adL i affect to be-
d ar.' not valuable
'hey have a reason
•se, in the sure con-
; a population and
jrder and power of
xists in large quan-
:rn mountains, and
s to develop it, but
rcmson, as they say
-kmen and materia ly

THE MINES or MORMONDOM.

to do it with. Hut as to gold and silver, they are
incredulous ; and not only that, but President Young
argues that the world has many times more of both
than it needs for financial purpo.ses ; that the coun-
try is poorer to-day for all the mining of gold and
silver in the last twenty years ; and that for every
dollar gained by it, four dollars have been expended.
But these views are not likely to gain wide acqui-
escence. There is no reason to doubt that the
mountains of Utah are rich in the precious metals —
perhaps not so much so as other Stafes and Territo-
ries, but still enough so to tempt miners and capital-
ists to invest in the business of developing them in
rivalry with Nev?da and Colorado. So far, the dis-
coveries have been chiefly of silver, in connection
with large deposits of lead and copper. Our party
have spent two interesting days this week in an ex-
cursion about forty miles into an adjoining beautiful
valld^, where some valuable developments have been
made in this line. Most of the discoveries have
been made by soldiers in General Connor's com-
mand — volunteers from the mining regions of Cali-
fornia and Nevada — who have been stationed in
this vicinity for the last two years; and most of
those whose terms have expired have gone to work
to improve and develop them. We found among
the various canyons or ravines of the Rush Valley
a hundred or two of mines freshly discovered and
worked out to various depths of ten to one hundred
feet. Colonel George, who, in the absence of Gen-
eral Connor to fight the Indians, is in command of
the camp here, accompanied us, and saw the lodes

g6 ' ACROSS THE CONTINENT."

fur the first time. He Is an old Nevada minor, and
he .siiys these promise much better — lilly per cent,
better — than the famous silver mines of that young
State. There, fifty to one hundred dollars of silver
from a ton of ore is considered highly profitable and
satisfactory ; here, the surface ore assays from one
hundred to five hundred dollars a ton, and in sev-
eral cases lodes have been opened that assay from
one thousand to four thousand dollars to the ton.
The last figure is obtained from one just opened
and named the New York lead. The farther the
mines arc worked, the richer grows the ore. Th^
Mormons say they will soon work out ; but the
miners have faith, and arc working away with all
the capital and labor they can command. At pres-
ent, the ore is easily worked, and does not demand
expensive machinery like stamp mills and steam or
water power. Smelting furnaces are the chief ne-
cessity to reduce the ore to its elements, and sepa-
rate the metal from the dross. As the mines are
further worked, the ore will probably grow harder,
and require more elaborate processes.

General Connor, who is an old Californian, has
large faith in these prospectings, has taken much
interest in their development, and has located and
is building up a town, called Stockton, near them,
in the Rush Valley. Here wc found a population
of perhaps two hundred, all "Gentiles," many of
them old soldiers, and all full of faith and zeal in
their new enterprise. Major Gallagher, formerly of
General Connor's California regiment, is living here
as the general's agent, and as farmer and miner on

INliNT.

Nevada minor, and
;ttcr — fifty pur cent,
mines of lluit young
!red dollars of silver
liiglily profitable and
jre assays from one
•s a ton, and in sev-
ned that assay from
1 dollars to the ton.
)m one just opened
d. The farther the
;rows the ore. Th^
work out ; but the
rking away with all
;ommand. At pres-
nd does not demand
5 mills and steam or
:cs are the chief ne-
clemcnts, and sepa-
. As the mines are
obably grow harder,
cesses.

old Californian, has
gs, has taken much
and has located and
itockton, near them,
J found a population
'Gentiles," many of
of faith and zeal in
allagher, formerly of
jimcnt, is living here
armcr and miner on

THE TKOMISF, OF UTAIT.

his own responsibility. We spent the night at the
"govcrnmeiit reserves," two miles beyond Stockton,
by the shore of Rush Lake ; these reserves being
valuable lands .selected some years ago by Colonel
Steptoe, as likely to be needed for government uses,
and now thus appropriated for supjilies of wood for
the camp in town and to pasture surplus horsies.
Here we met a rough but generous hospitality, a
midnight supper, a roaring open fire, and beds on the
floor and in the stable-yards ; but we slept soundly,
ale heartily, and gathered sweetest of flowers amid
a snow-storm on the hill-sides the next day, as we
wandered about in search of the silver lode.s.

In the more remote parts of the Territory, other
silver mines have been discovered, and are being
worked with succe.s.s. Their distance from markets,
the necessity of more or less machinery for their
profitable operation, and the lack of capital among
those who have discovered the lodes, are obstacles
to their rapid development; but judging from all I
can see and learn, there is no good reason to doubt
their great value, and sufficient cause to regard
them as offering one of the best fields for wisely
investing capital and labor in all the mining regions,
and to predict ere long such an interest and excite-
ment in regard to them, as will give Utah a 'new
population and rapid growth, and place her among
the first of the mining States. The antecedent,
achieved development of her agricultural capacities,
her settled population and her gath'-red and organ-
ized civilization will then prove of a great advan-
tage, and be properly appreciated.

5 7

LETTER X.

SALT LAKE CITY AND LIFE THERE.

Salt Lake City, Saturday, June 17.

In the "great and glorious future" of our Fourth
of July orations, when polygamy is extinct, the Pa-
cific Railroad built, and the mines developed. Salt
Lake City will be not only the chief commercial
city of the mountains, the equal of St. Louis and
Chicago, but one of the most beautiful residence
cities and most attractive watering-places on the
Continent. Its admirable location and early de-
velopment secure the one ; its agreeable climate for
eight months in the year, at least, and the surpass-
ing beauty of its location, with its ample supply of
water, its fruits and vegetables, will add the second ;
and joining to all these circumstances, its snow-
capped mountains, its hot sulphur springs, and its
Great Salt Lake, and we have the elements of the
third fact. There are two principal sulphur springs,
one hot enough (one hundred and twenty degrees)
to boil an egg, which is four miles from the center
of the city, and the other just the right temperature
for a hot bath, (ninety degrees,) which is close to
the city, and is already brought into a large enclw

u
a
is
c
d
b

s]
tl

it
ci
bi
so

flc

th<

yoi

ha:

the

tail

acr

qus

■"W^^

LIFE TIIERK.
"ITY, Saturday, June 17.

uture"of our Fourth
ny is extinct, the Pa-
lines developed, Salt
:he chief commercial
ual of St. Louis and
t beautiful residence
itering-places on the
cation and early de-
agreeable climate for
east, and the surpass-
h its ample supply of
i, will add the second ;
umstances, its snow-
Iphur springs, and its
e the elements of the
icipal sulphur springs,
I and twenty degrees)
miles from the center
; the right temperature
les,) which is close to
ht into a large enclw

SALT LAKE CUY ^S A ft AfERING-PLACE. 99

ure for free bathing purposes. Both these streams
are large enough for illimitable bathing; the water
is as highly sulphurized and as clear as that of the
celebrated Sharon Springs; and its use, either for
drmking or for baths, most effective in purifying the
blood aad toning up the.system. Other and smaller
springs of the same character have been foi-nd in
the neighborhood.

Then the Lake opens another field of attra. ons ;
It is a miniature ocean, about fifteen miles from the
city, fifty miles wide by one hundred long,— the
bnniest sheet of water known on the Continent,—
so salt that no fish can live in it, and that three
quarts of it will boU down to one quart of fine, pure
salt,— but most delicious and refreshing for bathing,
floating tKe body as a cork on the surface,— only
the brine must be kept from mouth and eyes under
the penalty of a severe smarting ;— with its high
rocky islands and crestfuU waves and its sup -b
sunsets, picturesque and enchanting to look upon;
while Its broad expanse offers wide spree for sailing,
and every chance for sea-sickness. Count up all
these features for a watering-place; and where will
you find a Newport, a Saratoga or a Sharon that
has the half of them.? So, ye votaries of fashion,
ye rheumatic cripples, ye victims tf scrofula and
ennui, prepare to pack your trunks at the sound of
the first whistle of the tr Jn for the Rocky Moun-
tams, for a season at Salt Lake City.

The city is regularly laid out into squares of ten
acres each, and these into lots of one acre and a
quarter, only ferther subdivided in the business or

-«3!5f,i^;

100

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

more thickly populated streets. The building ma-
terial is mostly sun-dried bricks, (called adobe,)
covered with plaster, and the houses are generally
of one story, covering much space and with as
many front doors as the owner has wives. A few
of the newer stores are built of stone, and are ele-
gant and capacious within and without Brigham
Young's establishment occupies a full square, and
■ibraces several dwellings, a school house for his
forty or fifty children, extensive stables, a grist mill,
a carpenter's shop, and the "tithing" office. An
opposite square is devoted to church purposes ; and
here is the old Tabernacle, a new and larger one
partly done, and the foundations of the great Tem-
ple, which, if ever completed, according to the de-
sign, will be the finest church edifice irt America
Nothing is doing upon it now. Within the samf
enclosure is the " Bowery," an immense thatch of
green boughs, covering space for an audience ol
several thousands. Here the general Sunday ser-
vices are held during the warm weather. Both
these squares, President Young's and the church
grounds, are enclosed by solid walls of mud and
stones, twelve feet high, and walls of a like charac-
ter are even used for fences about many of the resi-
dences. *•*

There are very large mercantile interests here.
Several firms do a business of a million doiiars or
more each, a year, and keep on hand stocks of goods
of the value of a quarter of a million. They fre-
quently have subsidiary stores in other parts of the
Territory to the number of four or six. Their

fn
ar
re
th

J«
las

le?

sa;

av(

cir

the

agj

the

sea

car

giv

Clc!

twe
five
bar
lunc
fiff3
cofi
tea

[ENT.

The building ma-
:s, (called adobe,)
uses are generally
)ace and with as
las wives. A few
stone, and are ele-
vithout Brigham
a full square, and
hool house for his
tables, a grist mill,
hing" office. An
rch purposes ; and
;w and larger one
of the great Tem-
cording to the de-
:difice iiJ America
Within the sam<
mmense thatch of
or an audience of
eneral Sunday ser-
in weather. Both
:'s and the church
walls of mud and
Is of a like charac-
it many of the resi-

tile interests here.
I million doiiars or
md stocks of goods
million. They fre-
1 other parts of the
jur or six. Their

BUSINESS AND PRICES IN UTAH.

lOI

freights are enormous, and sometimes their goods
are a year on the way hither. One firm has just
received a stock of goods, costing one hundred
thousand dollars, that was bought in New York last
June. It got caught on the Plains by early snow,
last fall, and had to winter on the way. Another
leading merchant paid one hundred and fifty thou-
sand dollars for freights last year. One lot cf
goods, groceries, hardware, dry goods, everything,
was found to have cost, on reaching here, just one
dollar a pound, adding to original purchase the cost
of freighting, which from New York to this point
averages from twenty-five to thirty cents a pound.
It of course requires large capital and courage to
enter upon the mercantile business here under such
circumsta*ftces. Prices, too, must rule high; and
when the supply is short, as it was last year, and
the demand large, great profits are realized; and
again, with an overstocked market and a small sale,
there is danger of heavy losses. One concern
made seventy-five per cent, profit last year, but this
season promises poorly; and the stocks on hand
cannot, in many cases, be sold for their cost. I
give the ruling rates for some of the leading arti-
cles, both of native production and imported : beef
twelve to twenty cents, mutton twenty to twenty-
five cents, pork fifty cents, bacon seventy-five cents,
hams one dollar, wood eighteen dollars per cord,
lumber one hundred dollars per thousand, butter
fiffy cents, sugar seventy-five to eighty-five cents,
coffee one dollar to one dollar and ten cents, green
tea (almost universal on the Plains and in the moun-

102

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

tains) three and a half to five dollars, tobacco two
to two dollars and a half, axes four dollars and a half,
heavy brown sheetings eighty-five to ninety cents,
fine seventy-five to ninety cents, prints twenty-five
to forty cents, dried apples sixty cents, dried peaches
fifty cents, molasses three to three dollars and a
half, gunpowder two dollars, day labor three dol-
lars, mechanics three to five dollars, clerks twelve
hundred to three thousand dollars a year. The
only coal mines yet developed in the Territory lie
forty miles over the mountains east, on our road
hither, and it costs twenty-five to thirty dollars a
ton to transport it to the city, so that the price for
it is thirty-five to forty dollars. It is a bituminous
coal, and of very fair quality.

Your readers would mistake if they supposed
that these prices enforced any poverty in living
among these people. There are not many abso-
lutely poor; and the general scale of living is gen-
erous. In the early years of the Territory, there
was terrible suflTering for the want of food ; many
were reduced to the roots of the field for sustenance ;
but now there appears to be an abundance of the
substantial necessaries of life, and as most of the
population are cultivators of the soil, all or nearly all
have plenty of food. And certainly, I have never
seen more generously laden tables than have been
spread before us at our hotel or at private houses.
A dinner to our party this evening by a leading
Mormon merchant, at which President Young and
the principal members of his council were present,
had as rich a variety of fish, meats, vegetables,

pa
in
thi
wa
on
in
be
to

otl
of
off
Tl
i'
Its
en
m(
sai
rai
an
mi

it;
th(
by
tei
cla
an
in
cir
rai
an

SENT.

BRIGHAM YOUNGS THEATER.

103

ollars, tobacco two
r dollars and a half,
\re to ninety cents,

prints twenty-five
:ents, dried peaches
hree dollars and a
ly labor three dol-
llars, clerks twelve
liars a year. The
n the Territory lie

east, on our road

to thirty dollars a

that the price for

It is a bituminous

5 if they supposed
r poverty in living
re not many abso-
ile of living is gen-
he Territory, there
^ant of food ; many
field for sustenance ;
[1 abundance of the
md as most of the
soil, all or nearly all
tainly, I have never
lies than have been
r at private houses,
ening by a leading
esident Young and
)uncil were present,
meats, vegetables.

pastry and fruit, as I ever saw on any private table
in the East ; and the quality and the cooking and
the serving were unimpeachable. All the food, too,
was native in Utah. The wives of our host waited
on us most amicably, and the entertainment was,
in every way, the best illustration of the practical
benefits of plurality, that has yet been presented
to us.

Later in the evening we were introduced to an-
other, and perhaps the most wonderful, illustration
of the reach of social and artificial life in this far
off city of the Rocky Mountains. This was the
Theater, in which a special performance was irapro-
i'(;d in honor of Speaker Colfax. The building is
Itself a rare triumph of art and enterprise. No east-
ern city of one hundred thousand inhabitants, — re-
member Salt Lake City has less than twenty thou-
sand, — possesses so fine a theatrical structure. It
rankd, alike in capacity and elegance of structure
and finish, along with the opera-houses and acade-
mies of music of Boston, New York, Philadelphia,
Chicago and Cincinnati. In costumes and scenery,
it is furnished with equal richness and variety, and
the performances themselves, though by amateurs,
by merchants and mechanics, by wives and daugh-
ters of citizens, would have done full credit to a first-
class professional company. There was first a fine
and elaborate drama, and then a spectacular farce,
in both which were introduced some exquisite dan-
cing, c. id in one some good singing also. I have
rarely seen a theatrical entertainment more pleasing
and satisfactory in all its details and appointments.

104

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

Yet the two pnncipal male characters weie by a
day-laborer and a carpenter; one of the leading
lady parts was by a married daughter of Brigham
Young, herself the mother of several children ; and
several other of his daughters took part in the bal-
let, which was most enchantingly rendered, and with
great scenic effect. The house was full in all its
parts, and the audience embraced all classes of so-
ciety, from the wives and daughters of President
Young,— a goodly array,— and the families of the
rich merchants, to the families of the mechanics
and farmers of the city and valley, and the soldiers
from the camp. President Young built and owns
the theater, and conducts it on his private account,
or on that of the church, as he does many other of
the valuable and profitable institutions of the Ter-
ritory, such as cotton, saw and flour mills, the best
farms, etc. ; and, as he is at no expense for actors
or actresses, and gets good prices for admi sion, he
undoubtedly makes a "good thing" out of it. Dur-
ing the winter season, performances are given twice
a week ; and the theater proves a most useful and
popular social center and entertainment for the
whole people; Its creation was a wise and benefi-
cent thought.

(

bee
us.

ing
insi

ity,

dev

con

mui

hav

talil

not

part

poli

ins't

pub

the

cess

him

doci

INENT,

laracters weie by a
one of the leading
lughter of Brigham
veral children ; and
ook part in the bal-
f rendered, and with
; was full in all its
2d all classes of so-
jhters of President
the families of the
of the mechanics
ey, and the soldiers
ing built and owns
his private account,
Joes many other of
tutions of the Ter-
lour mills, the best
expense for actors
!s for admi sion, he
g" out of it. Dur-
ces are given twice
a most useful and
Ttainment for the
a wise and benefi-

LETTER XI.

THE POLYGAMY QUESTION.

Salt Lake City, June li
Our, visit here closes in the morning. It ha.s
been very interesting, instructive and gratifying to
us. We have had unusual opportunities for learn-
ing the opinions of the Mormons, for studying their
institutions, for measuring their culture and capac-
ity, for observing their social, material and religious
development, and for informing ourselves as to the
conflict fast growing up between them_and the non-
Mormons who are rapidly accumulating in the com-
munity. The leaders in the church and in society
have been generous and constant in their hospi-
tality, and frank in their conversation, partly, I will
not doubt, from a hearty, human good feeling, and
partly, no doubt, also, from anxiety as to the future
policy of the government towards them and their
ins'titutions, and eagerness to propitiate political and
public opinion in their favor. We have attended
the services at the Mormon Tabernacle on two suc-
cessive Sabbaths, on one of which Brigham Young
himself preached in exposition and defense of the
doctrines of his church. Mr. Colfax and his friends
5*

io6

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

have also had two long interviews with Brigham
Young and the other leaders of the church, in one
of which the peculiar institution of the people was
freely and frankly but most earnestly discussed by
all. The testimony and opinions of the "Gentiles,"
and of intelligent citizens, men and women, who,
once Mormons, have now left the church, have been
freely offered to us, and gladly heard. Valuable
facts and opinions have also been gathered from old
and intelligent citizens, who have held a sort of in-
dependent and neutral position, who are neither
polygamists in theory or practice, nor megibers of
the church, but who, either from motives of policy
or qualities of temperament, have taken no part
with the pronounced and denouncing "Gentiles."
Nor have the opinions and feelings of women in
polygamy been wholly denied to us; though we
have not been offered their society by their hus-
bands with any particular generosity ; — this, indeed,
being the only feature of their hospitality that has
been measured and chary.

The result of the whole experience has been to
increase my appreciation of the value of their ma-
terial progress and development to the nation ; to
evoke congratulations to them and to the country
for the wealth they have created and the order, fru-
gality, morality and industry that have been organ-
ized in this remote spot in our Continent ; to excite
wonder at the perfection and power of their church
system, the extent of its ramifications, the sweep
of its influence ; and to enlarge my respect for the
personal sincerity and character of many of the

lea

hai

str

grt

tis(

pel

onl

it,!

COT

inf
pic
]
pol
ma
Mc
pel
Na
ish
of
ter
of
bee
nol
err
pec
ties
by
lie,
hoi
wit
but

"-^*rWf?'

NENT.

cws with Brigham
the church, in one
I of the people was
lestly discussed by
3 of the "Gentiles,"
1 and women, who,
: church, have been
r heard. Valuable
1 gathered from old
e held a sort of in-
j, who are neither
ce, nor megibers of
1 motives of policy
ave taken no part
uncing "Gentiles."
:lings of women in
to us; though we
ciety by their hus-
jsity ; — this, indeed,
hospitality that has

srience has been to
: value of their ma-
lt to the nation ; to
and to the country
I and the order, fru-
it have been organ-
continent; to excite
wer of their church
Scations, the sweep
! my respect for the
er of many of the

MORMONISM NOT POLYGAMY.

107

leaders in the organization ; — also, and on the other
hand, to deepen my disgust at their polygamy, and
strengthen my convictions of .its barbaric and de-
grading influences. They have tried it and prac-
tised it under the most favorable circumstances,
perhaps under the mildest form possible ; but, now
as before, here as cLsewhere, It lends to and means
only the degradation of woman. By it and under
it, she becomes simply the servant and serf, not the
companion and equal of man ; and the inevitable
influence of this upon all society need not be de-
picted.

But I find that Mormonism is not necessarily
polygamy; that the one began and existed for
many years without the other; that not all the
Mormons accept the doctrine, and not one-fourth,
perhaps not one-eighth practise it; and that the
Natioa and its government may oppose it and pun-
ish it, without at all interfering with the existence
of the Mormon church, or justly being held as in-
terfering with the religious liberty that is the basis
of all our institutions. This distinction has not
been sufficiently understood heretofore, and it has
not been consistently acted upon by either the gov-
ernment or the public of the East. Here, by the
people, who are coming in to enjoy the opportuni-
ties of the country for trade and mining, and there,
by our rulers at Washington and by the great pub-
lic, this single issue of polygamy should be pressed
home upon the Mormon church, — discreetly apd
with tact, with law and with argument and appeal,
but with firmness and power.

io8

ACROSS lUli CONTINENT.

Ultimately, of course, before the influences of
emigration, civilization and our democratic habits,
an organization so aristocratic and autocratic as the
Mormon church now is must modify its rule; it
must compete with' other sects, and take its chance
with them. And its most aristocratic and uncivil-
ized incident or feature of plurality of wives must
fall first and completely before contact with the
rest of the world, — marshalled with mails, daily
papers, railroads and telegraphs, — ciphering out the
fact that ine men and women of the world are about
equally divided, and applying to the Mormon patri-
archs the democratic principle cf equal and exact
justice. Nothing can save this feadire of Mor-
monism but new flight and a more complete isola-
tion. A kingdom in the sea, entirely its own, could
only perpetuate it ; and thither even, commerce and
democracy would ultimately follow it. fhe click of
the telegraph and the roll of the overland stages
are its death-rattle now ; the first whistle of the
locomotive will sound its requiem ; and the pick-
ax of the miner will dig its grave. Squatter, sov-
ereignty will speedily settle the question, even if
the government continues to coquette with it and
humor it, as it has done.

But the government should no longer hold a
doubtful or divided position toward this great crime
of the Mormon church. Declaring clearly both its
want of power and disinclination to interfere at all
with the church organization as iuch, or with the lat-
ter's influence over its followers, assuring and guar-
anteeing to it all the liberty and freedom that other

rch]

sho

its :

feat

pari

the

uto

tens

Nov

Tcr

time

who

neit

ofi:

gOV(

prac
h
caln
port
necc
mon
prea
here
and
whe
agai
term
need
up;
the]
the
prec

JEN'T.

the influences of
democratic habits,
d autocratic as the
nodify its rule; it
lid take its chance
cratic and uncivil-
lity of wives must
contact with the
with mails, daily
-ciphering out the
he world are about
the Mormon patri-
■f equal and exact
s feature of Mor-
)re complete isola-
irely its own, could
^en, commerce and
w it. The click of
le overland stages
rst whistle of the
!m ; and the pick-
/c. Squatter, sov-
question, even if
quette with it and

no longer hold a
rd this great crime
ng clearly both its
to interfere at all
ch, or with the lat-
issuring and guar-
reedom that other

DUTV ur THK GOVERNMENT.

109

religious sects hold and enjoy, the government
should still, as clearly and distinctly, declare, by all
its action and all its representatives here, that this
feature of polygamy, not properly or necessarily a
part of the religion of the Mormons, is a crime by
the common law of all civilization and by the stat'
utf' l.)w f)f tl>e Nation, and that any cases of its ex-
tension will be prosecuted and punished as such.
Now half or two-thirds the federal officers in the
Territory are polyganiists; and others bear no tes-
timony against it. These should give way to men
who, otherwise equally Mormons it may be, still are
neither polygamists nor believers m the practice
of pcjlygamy. No employes or contractors of the
government should be [...ilygamists in theory or
practice.

Herq the government should take its stand,
calmly, quietly, but firmly, giving its moral sup-
port and countenance, ami its physical support, it
necessary for fair play, to the large class of Mor-
mons who are not polygamists, to missionaries and
preachers of all other sects, who choose to come
here, and erect their standards and invite followers ;
and to that growing public opinion, here and else-
where, which is accumulating its inexorable force
against an institution which has not inaptly been
termed a twin barbarism with slavery. There is no
need and no danger of physical conflict growing
up ; only a hot and unwise zeal and impatience on
the part of the government representatives, and tn
the command ol the troops stationed here, could
precipitate that. The probability is, that, upon such

mmm.

:^Atf.liiilllill

ACUOSS THE CONTINENT.

a demonstration by the government, as T have sn;!,
gcsted, the leaders of the church would receive new
light on the subject themselves, — perhaps have a
fresh revelation, and abandon the objectionable fea-
ture in their polity. No matter if they did not, —
it would soon, under the influences now rapidly ag-
gregating, and thus reinforced by the government,
abandon them.

In this way, all violent conflict would, I believe,
be successfully avoided ; and all this valuable popu-
lation and its industries and wealth may be retained
in place and to the Nation, without waste. Let
them continue to be Mormons, if they choose, so
long as they are not polygamists. They may be
ignorant and fanatical, and imposed upon and swin-
dled even, by their church leaders; but they are
industrious, thriving, and more comfortable than,
on an average, they have ever been before in the
homes from which they came hither; and there is
no law against fanaticism and bigotry and religious
charlatanry. All these evils of religious benight-
ment are not original in Utah, and they will work
out their own cure here, as they have done else-
where in our land. We must have patience with
the present, and possibly forgiveness for supposed
crimes in the past by the leaders, because we have
heretofore failed to meet the issues promptly and
clearly, and have shared by our consent and protec-
tion to their authors in the alleged wrongs.

The conversation I have alluded to with Brigham
Young and some of his elders, on this subject of
polygamy, was introduced by his inquiring of Mr.

NENT.

DISCUSSION WITH DRIOHAM YOUNO.

Ill

lent, as T have siift
would receive new
i, — perhaps have a
c objectionable fea-
r if they did not,—
CCS now rapidly apf-
)y the government,

ct would, I believe,
this valuable popu-
1th may be retained
ithout waste. Let
, if they choose, so
sts. They may be
)sed upon and swin-
ders; but they are
I comfortable than,
been before in the
lither; and there is
igotry and religious
r religious benight-
and they will work
ey have done else-
have patience with
reness for supposed
rs, because we have
ssues promptly and
consent and protec-
2;ed wrongs,
led to with Brigham
, on this subject of
lis inquiring of Mr.

Colfax what the government and people of the East
projjosed to do with it and them, now that they had
got rid of the slavery question. The i^peaker replied
that he had no authority to speak for the govern-
ment; but for himself, if he might be permitted to
make the suggestion, he had hoped the prophets
of the church would have a new revelation on the
subject, which shouhl put a stop to the practice.
He added further that, as the people of Missouri
and Maryland, without waiting for the action of the
general government against slavery, themselves be-
lieving it to be wrong and an impediment to their
prosperity, had taken measures to abolish it, so he
hoped the people of the Mormon church would see
that polygamy was a hindrance and not a help, and
move for its abandonment. Mr. Young responded
quickly and frankly that he should readily welcome
such a revelation ; that polygamy was not in the
original book of the Mormons; that it was not an
essential practice in the church, but only a privilege
and a duty, under special command of God ; that he
knew it had been abused ; that people had entered
into polygamy who ought not to have done so, and
against his protestation and advice. At the same
time, he defended the practice as having biblical au-
thority, and as having, within proper limits, a sound,
moral and philosophical reason and propriety.

The discussion, thus opened, grew general and
sharp, though ever good-natured. Mr. Yoirng was
asked how he got over the fact that the two sexes
were about equally divided all over the world, and
that, if some men had two, five, or twenty wives,

.L_

112

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

Others would have to go without altogether. His
reply was that there was always a considerable pro-
portion of the men who would never marry, who
were old bachelors from choice. But, retorted one,
are there any more of such than of women who
choose to be old maids.' Oh yes, said he, most
ungallantly ; there is not one woman in a million
who will not marry if she gets a chance ! One of
the saints, who was pressing the biblical usage and
authority for many wives as above all laws and con-
stitutions, was asked as to the effect of the same
usage and authority for human sacrifice, — would
you, he was asked, if commanded by Go', offer up
your son or your enemy as a sacrifice, kiliii.^' them ?
Yej, he promptly replied. Then the civil law would
lay its hands upon you and stop you, and would be
justified in doing so, was the apparently effective
answer.

In the course of the discussion, Mr. Young asked,
suppose polygamy is given up, will not your govern-
nrent then demand more, — ^will it not war upon the
Book of the Mormons, and attack our church organ-
ization? The reply was emphatically No, that it
had no right, and could have no justification to do
so, and that we had no idea there would be any dis-
position in that direction.

The talk, which was said to be the freest and
frankest ever known on that subject in that pres-
ence, ended pleasantly, but with the full expression,
on the part of Mr. Colfax and his friends, of their
hope that the polygamy question might be removed
from existence, and thus all objection to the admis-

S101

unt
tha
diff
pra
his

ifp
ous

que
esc(
prei
1
off
abs
lish
tell
ing

agg

let i

the

that

out

whe

hav(

pee]

worl

alm(

quit

I CO

mas
Ave

L.-_

[NENT.

ut altogether. His
a considerable pro-
. never marry, who
But, retorted one,
an of women who
yes, said he, most
woman in a million
a chance ! One of
; biblical usage and
I'e all laws and con-
effect of the same
n sacrifice, — would
;d by Gc', offer up
rifice, kihii.^ them ?
I the civil law would
you, and would be
ipparently effective

1, Mr. Young asked,
ill not your govern-
it not war upon the
c our church organ-
itically No, that it
) justification to do
e would be any dis-

be the freest and
ibject in that pres-
the full expression,
tiis friends, of their

might be removed
ction to the admis-

BRIGHAM YOUNG ON THE REBELS.

113

sion of Utah as a State be taken away ; but that,
until it was, no such admission was possible, and
that the government could not continue to look in-
differently upon the enlargement of so offensive a
practice. And not only what Mr. Young said, but
his whole manner left with us the impression that,
if public opinion and the government united vigor-
ously, but at the same time discreetly, to press the
question, there would be found some way to acqui-
esce in the demand, and change the practice of the
present fathers of the church.

The conversation was continued on the subjects
of punishing the leading rebels, and of slavery in the
abstract. Mr. Young favored slavery /^r se a.« estab- •
lished by Divine authority, but denounced the chat-
tel system of the South ; and he opposed the hang-
ing of any of the rebel chiefs as an unwise and
aggravating policy. Now that peace is established,
let all be pardoned, he said ; but early in or during
the war, he would have disposed of the rebel chiefs
that fell into the hands of the government with-
out mercy or hesitation. Had he been President
when Mason and Slidell were captured, he would
have speedily put them "where they never would
peep," and negotiated with England afterwards.
He uttered this sentiment with such a wicked
worki'.ig of the lower jaw and lip, and such an
almost demon-like spirit in his whole face, that,
quite disposed to be incredulous on those matters,
I could not help thinking of the Mountain Meadow
massacre of recusant Mormons, of Danites and
Avenging Angels, and their reported achievements.

• 8

._J

LETTER XII.

THE MORMON WIVES: OUR I-AST DAY IN SALT
LAKE CITY.

Salt Lake City, June 18.
How do the Mormon women like and bear po-
lygamy ? is the question most people ask as to the
institution. The universal testimony of all but
their husbands is, that it is a grievous sorrow and
burden ; only cheerfully submitted to and embraced
under a religious fanaticism and self-abnegation
rare to behold, and possible only to women. They
are taught to believe, and many of them really do
believe, that through and by it they secure a higher
and more glorious reward in the future world.
" Lord Jesus has laid a heavy trial upon me," said
one poor, sweet woman, " but I mean to bear it for
His sake, and for the glory He will grant me in His
kingdom." This is the common wail, the common
solace. Such are the teachings of the church ; and
I have no doubt both husbands and wives alike
often honestly accept this view of the odious prac-
tice, and seek and submit to polygamy as really
God's holy service, calculated to make saints of
themselves and all asso<iiated with them in the fu-
ture Vvorld.

amo
theii
mon
not
mos
mon
wive
harr
wou'
hous
isg(
quer
then
drea
and
swe(
degi
to d
wo*^
infid
the
clair
T
deb:
edu(
to t
vidii
locu
schc
the
in b

'S^S^^'

POLYGAMY AND WOMAN.

«*5

MI.

AST DAY IN SALT

r Lake City, June 18.
n like and bear po-
)eople ask as to the
istimony of all but
grievous sorrow and
ted to and embraced
and self-abnegation
ly to women. They
ly of them really do
they secure a higher
I the future world,
trial upon me," said
'. mean to bear it for
will grant me in His
)n wail, the common
i of the church ; and
ids and wives alike
r of the odious prac-
polygamy as really
to make saints of
with them in the fu-

Still a good deal of human nature is visible, both
among the men in embracing polygamy, and irf
their wives in submitting to it. Mr. Young's testi-
mony on this point is significant. Other signs are
not wanting in the looks and character of the men
most often anointed in the holy bonds of matri-
mony, and in the well-known disagreement of the
wives in many families. In some cases they live
harmoniously and lovingly together; oftener, it
would seem, they have separate parts of the same
house, or even separate houses. The first wife
is generally the recognized one of society, and fre-
quently assumes contempt for the others, regarding
them as concubines, and not wives. But it is a
dreadful state of society to any one of fine feelings
and true instincts; it robs married life of all its
sweet sentiment and companionship; and while it
degrades woman, it brutalizes man, teaching him
to despise and domineer over his wives, over all
wo^nen. It breeds jealousy, distrust, and tempts to
infidelity ; but the police system of the church and
the community is so strict and constant that it is
claimed and believed the latter vice is veiy rare.

The effect upon the children cannot help being
debasing, however well they may be guarded and
educated. Bat it is a chief failing, even a scandal
to the Mormons, that, plentifully as they are pro-
viding children, wHo swarm everywhere as did the
locusts in Egypt, they have organized no free
school system. Schools are held in every ward of
the city, and probably in every considerable village,
in buildings provided for evening religious meet-

I ■

ili

.,.J

Ii6

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

iiigs under the direction of the local bishops, but a
tuition fee is exacted for all who attend, and the
poor are practically shut out. The anti-polygamists
should agitate at once and earnestly to reform this
evil, — it is a strong point against the dominant
party, and a weak point in the welfare of the Terri-
tory. It is a good and encouraging sign to learn
from intelligent sources that, as the young girls,
daughters of Mormons, grow up to womanhood,
they are indisposed to polygamy, „nd seek husbands
among the " Gentiles" rather than among their own
faith.

The soldiers at Camp Douglas, near this city, , f^
illustrating one of the ways in which polygamy will
fade away before the popular principle. Two com-
panies, who went home to California last fall, took
about twenty-five wives with them, recruited from
the Mormon flocks. There are now some fifty or
more women in the camp, who have fled thither
from town for protection, or been seduced away
from unhappy homes and fractional husbands ; and
all or nearly all find new husbands among the sol-
diers. Only to-day a man with three daughters,
living in the city, applied to Colonel George for
leave to move up to the camp for a residence, in
order, as he said, to save his children from polyg-
amy, into which the bishops and elders of the
church were urging them. The camp authorities
tell many like stories ; also of sadder applications,
if possible, for relief from actual poverty and from
persecution in town. The Mormons have no poor-
house, and say they have no poor, permitting none

by n
wint
thirt
teal I
dem<
ities
Y(
prop
Utal
out <
are ]
ain.
land(
Youi
repr(
all ai

ing]
the

acut<

Tabt

ater

look]

fine-1

head

mass

poor

of 01

Tl
ing
cami
singi
part

* ;«ff 9S©*

riNENT.

5 local bishops, but a
who attend, and the
rhe anti-polygamists
nestly to reform this
gainst the dominant
welfare of the Terri-
raging sign to learn
as the young girls,
up to womanhood,
y, «nd seek husbands
lan among their own

as, near this city, ■^.
which polygamy will
rinciple. Two com-
ifornia last fall, took
:hem, recruited from
re now some fifty or
lo have fled thither
been seduced away
ional husbands ; and
ands among the sol-
ith three daughters,
Colonel George for
) for a residence, in
;hildren from polyg-
and elders of the
he camp authorities
sadder applications,
al povei-ty and from
rmons have no poor-
)or, permitting none

SERVICES AT THE TABERNACLE.

117

by relieving all through work or gifts. But the last
winter was so long and so severe, with wood at
thirty and forty dollars a cord, that there was much
real suffering, and the soldiers yielded to extensive
demands upon their charity, that the church author-
ities had neglected to fulfill, or absolutely denied.

Your readers are aware, I suppose, that a large
proportion, perhaps the majority, of the people of
Utah are foreigners, — recruits by missionaries sent
out over the whole world. The larger proportion
are English, from the factory towns of Great Brit-
ain. But Germans, Swedes, Finns, Scotch, Ice-
landers, and even East Indians, are here. Mr.
Young boasts that fifty different nationalities are
represented among his people. The bulk of them
all are of the peasantry, the lower classes of work-
ing people at home ; and so the congregations of
the Mormons do not exhibit the marks of high
acuteness and intelligence. The audiences at the
Tabernacle to-day and last Sunday, and at the the-
ater last night, were what would be called common-
looking people. The handsome girls were few ; the
fine-looking women even fewer ; intelligent, strong-
headed men were more numerous; but the great
mass, both in size, looks and dress, was below the
poorest, hardest-working and most ignorant classes
of ou/ eastern large towns.

The gatherings and the services, both in speak-
ing and singing, reminded me of the Methodist
camp-meetings of fifteen or twenty years ago. The
singing, as on the latter occasions, was the best
part of the exercises, simple, sweet, and fervent.

Ii8

ACROSS THE CONTINENT

" Daughters of Zion," as sung by the large choir
last Sunday, was prayer, sermon, song and all.
The preaching last Sabbath was by Mr. Samuel W.
Richards, who was of Massachusetts origin, but a
Mormon leader and missionary for many years.
Heyond setting forth the superiority of the Mor-
mon church system, through its presidents, coun-
cils, bishops, elders and seventies, for the work
made incumbent upon Christians, and claiming
that its preachers were inspired like those of old,
his discourse was a rambling, unimpressive exhorta-
tion, such as you may hear from a tonguey deacon
in any country Baptist or Methodist meeting-house.
The Bible, both old and new testament, is used
with the same authority as by all Protestants ; the
Mormon scriptures are simply new and added
books, confirming and supplementing the teach-
ings of the original Scriptures. The rite of the
sacrament is administered every Sunday, water
being used instead of wine, and the distribution
proceeding among the whole congregation, men,
women and children, and numbering from three to
five thousand, while the singing and the preaching
are in progress. The prayers are few and simple,
undistinguishable, except in these characteristics,
from those heard in all Protestant churches, and the
congregation all join in the Amen.

Brigham Young's preaching to-day was a very
unsatisfactory, disappointing performance. There
was every incentive to him to do Lis best ; he had
an immense audience spread out under the "bow-
ery" to the number of five or six thousand; before

__ J

him
upo
him
nun

CUSi

But

wh(

ous

bol(

vul|

his

to 1

witl

onl;

Jes

nov

wer

oM(

the

was

Chi

ess:

tort

occ

Sai

chij

abo

and

pro

mai

to a

:iN£NX

BRIGHAM YOUNGS PREACHING.

119

: by the large choir
mon, song and all.
s by Mr. Samuel W.
lusetts origin, but a
ry for many years.
;riority of the Mor-
ts presidents, coun-
nties, for the work
tians, and claiming
id like those of old,
limpressive exhorta-
m a tonguey deacon
)dist meeting-house.

testament, is used
all Protestants ; the
ly new and added
menting the teach-
s. The rite of the
^ery Sunday, water
ind the distribution
congregation, men,
jering from three to
5 and the preaching
are few and simple,
lese characteristics,
nt churches, and the
len.

to-day was a very
erformance. There
do Lis best ; he had
ut under the "bow-
ix thousand ; before

him was Mr. Colfax, who had asked him to preach
upon the distinctive Mormon doctrines; around
him were all his elders and bishops, in unusual
numbers ; and he was fresh from the exciting dis-
cussion of yesterday on the subject of polygamy.
But his address lacked logic, lacked effect, lacked
wholly magnetism or impressiveness. It was a curi-
ous medley of scriptural exposition and exhortation,
bold and bare statement, coarse denunciation and
vulgar allusion, cheap rant and poor cant. So far aa
his statement of Mormon belief went, it amounted
to this: that God was a human, material person,
with like flesh and blood and passions to ourselves,
only perfect in all things ; that he begot his son
Jesus in the same way that children are begotten
now ; tl-at Jesus and the father looked alike and
were alike, distinguishable only by the former being
older ; that our resurrection would be material, and
we should live in heaven with the same bodies and
the same passions as on earth; that Mormonism
was the most perfect and true religion ; that those
Christians who were not Mormons would not nec-
essarily go to hell and be burned by living fire and
tortured by ugly devils, but that they would not
occupy so high places in heaven as the Latter Day
Saints; that polygamy was the habit of all the
children of God in the earlier ages, and was first
abolished by the Goths and Vandals who conquered
and constructed Rome; that Martin Luther ap-
proved of it in a single case at least ; that a clergy-
man of the church of England once married a man
to a second wife while his first wife was living ; and

-Jl

lao

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

that in England now, if a man wanted to change
his wife, he had only to offer her at auction and
knock her off for a pot of beer or a shilling, and
marry another. (This last statement called out a
voice of dissent from an English 'working-face in
the audience.) A good deal of boasting of the
success of the Mormons, their temperance, frugal-
ity and honesty, and a sharp denunciation of the
"few stinking lawyers who lived down in whiskey
street, and for five dollars would attempt to make a
lie into a truth," were the only other noticeable fea-
tures of this discourse of the president of the
church of the Latter Day Saints. It was a very
material interpretation of the statements and truths
of scripture, very illogically and roughly rendered ;
and calculated only to influence a cheap and vulgar
audience. Brigham Young may be a shrewd busi-
ness man, an able organizer of labor, a bold, brave
person in dealing with the practicalities of life, — he
must, indeed, be all of these, for we see the eviden-
ces all around this city and country ; but he is in
no sense an impressive or effective preacher, judged
by any standards that I have been accustomed to.

His audience, swollen one or two thousand more,
could not have helped drawing a sharp contrast, —
dull in comprehension and fanatically devoted to
him as most of them probably are, — between his
speech and his style, and those of Mr. Colfax, who,
at a later hour this evening, delivered in the same
place, by invitation of the church and city authori-
ties, his Chicago Eulogy on the Life and Principles
of President Lincoln. He spoke it without notes,

ai
u
rr
re

ai
ai

cc
w

ar
th
a

be
se

J"
frc

se:

lat

lai

sta

CO]

otl
ma

NENT.

wanted to change
ler at auction and

or a shilling, and
iment called out a
sh 'working-face in
f boasting of the
:cmperance, frugal-
snunciation of the
1 down in whiskey
attempt to make a
ther noticeable fea-

president of the
ts. It was a very
tements and truths
roughly rendered ;
a cheap and vulgar
' be a shrewd busi-
abor, a bold, brave
calities of life, — he
we see the eviden-
mtry ; but he is in
re preacher, judged
:n accustomed to.
wo thousand more,
I sharp contrast, —
itically devoted to
are, — between his
)f Mr. Colfax, who,
vered in the same
\\ and city authori-
Life and Principles
c it without notes,

ELECTIONS IN UTAH.

121

and with much freedom and fervor to an audience
unused to so effective and eloquent a style,. and
more unused, we fear, to such sentiments ; and he
received rapt attention and apparently delighted
approval throughout the whole. Mr. Colfax's other
and informal speeches here, and his whole inter-
course with the authorities and people of all parties,
considerate always, but frank and ever consistent
with his principles, had won him the respect of all
and the affection of many ; but the pronouncing of
this eulogy has increased the feeling in his favor to
a high enthusiasm.

The election for territorial delegate to Congress
from Utah occurs in August. Judge Kinney, who
was sent here as judge by President Buchanan, and
becoming agreeable to the Mormon leaders, was
sent to Congress by them when superseded in his
judgeship by Mr. Lincoln, has recently come back
from Washington, and seeks re-election. • But it is
doubtful if Mr. Young decides to have him go again.
He has indicated a purpose of returning Captain
Hooper, an old and prosperous merchant here, who
served the term before Judge Kinney, and who has
lately sold out his business here, in order to go on a
mission for the church to England.* He was popu-
lar and useful in Congress before, is an intelligent,
able man, and though a Mormon of many years'
standing, has the principle and good sense to be
content with one most excellent wife. These and
other selections for office are of course nominally
made by the people voting as in other States and

* Mr. Hooper has since been chosen to Congress.
6

^j^amtma^

122

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

Territories ; but the real choice is made beforehand
by the church authorities, *and the vote is usually
quite small. Only one case is knovm of the bish-
op's ticket ever having been defeated. This was
at a small country village in the choice for mayor ;
but the fact was not suffered to go abroad, — it was
too dangerous an example.

But adieu to Salt Lake and many-wive-and-much-
childrcn-dom ; to its strawberries and roses; its
rare hospitality ; its white crowned peaks, its wide-
spread valley, its river of scriptural name, its lake
of briniest taste. I have met much to admire,
many to respect, worshiped deep before its Na-
ture, — found only one thing to condemn. I shall
want to come again when the railroad can bring
me, and that blot is gone.

wgyp"

ENT.

made beforehand
le vote is usually
lovm of the bish-
eated. This was
:hoice for mayor ;
abroad, — it was

yr-wive-and-much-
s and roses; its
d peaks, its wide-
-al name, its lake
much to admire,
p before its Na-
ondemn. I shall
ailroad can bring

LETTER XIII.

SOCIAL LIFE AMONG THE MORMONS.

Austin, Nevada, June 23.
I GO back to the Mormons, to add some facts and
gossip, because their civilization is so remarkable,
and because they and their institutions are about
to come into new and final conflict with the people
and the government of the country. Polygamy in-
troduces many curious cross-relationships, and in-
tertwines the branches of the genealogical tree in
a manner greatly to puzzle a mathematician, as well
as to disgust the decent-minded. The marrying of
two or more sisters is very common; one young
Mormon merchant in Salt Lake City has three
sisters for his three wives. There are several cases
of men marrying both mother (widow) and her
daughter or daughters; taking the ."old woman"
for the sake of getting the young ones ; but having
children by all. Please to cipher out for yourselves
how this mixes things. More disgusting associa-
tions are known,— even to the marrying of a half-
sister by one Mormon. Consider, too, how these
children of one father and many mothers, — the latter
often blood relations, — are likely to become crossed

124

ACROSS Tlir. CONTINENT.

again in new marriages, in the second or third, if
not the first, generations, under the operation of this
polygamous practice ; and it is safe to predict tliat a
few generations of such social practices will breed
a physical, moral and mental debasement of the
people most frightful to contemplate. Already, in-
deed, are such indications apparent, foreshadowing
the sure and terrible realization.

Brigham Young's wives are numberless ; at least
no one seems to know how many he has ; and he
has himself confessed to forgetfulness in the mat-
ter. The probability is he has from si.xtecn to
twenty genuine or complete wives, and about an
many more women "sealed" to him for heavenly
association and glory. The latter are mostly pious
old ladies, eager for high seats in the Mormon
heaven, and knowing no surer way to get there
than to be joined on to Brigham's angelic proces-
sion. Some of these sealed wives of his are the
earthly wives of other men ; but, lacking faith in
their husbands' heavenly glory, seek to make a sure
thing of it for the future by the grace of gracious
Brigham. Down East, you know, many a husband
calculates on stealing into heaven under the pious
petticoats of his better wife ; here the thing is re-
versed, and women go to heaven because their hus-
bands take them along. The Mormon religion is
an excellent institution for maintaining masculine
authority in the family ; and the greatness of <a true
Mormon is measured, indeed, by the number of
wives he can keep in sweet and loving and espe-
cially obedient subjugation. Such a man can have

^j*t.

KNT.

'A COOU THING KOR A TOOK MAN.

125

jconcl or third, if
; operation of this
L' to predict tli:;t a
iictices will breed
■basement of the
ite. Already, in-
tit, foreshadowing

nberless ; at least
y he has ; and he
Iness in the mat-

from sixteen to
es, and about as
him for heavenly
r are mostly pious

in the Mormon
way to get there
3 angelic proces-
es of his arc the
, lacking faith in
ek to make a sure
grace of gracious
■, many a husband
I under the pious
e the thing is re-
jecause their hus-
ormon religion is
taining masculine
;reatness of -a true
y the number of

loving and espe-
h a man can have

as many wives as he wants. But President Young
objects to multiplying wives for men who have
not this rare domestic gift. So there is no chance
for you and me, my dear Jones, becoming successful
Mormons!

In many cases, the Mormon wives not only sup-
port themselves and their children but help support
their husbands. Thus a clerk or other man, with
similar limited income, who has yielded to the fasci-
nations and desires of three or four women, and
married them all, makes his home with number one,
perhaps, and the rest live iipart, each by herself, tak-
ing in .sewing or washing, or engaging in other em-
ployment, to keep up her establishment and be no
charge to her husband. He comes around, once
in a while, to make her a visit, and then she sets
out an extra table and spends all her accumulated
earnings to make him as comfortable and herself
as charming as possible, so that her fraction of the
dear sainted fhan may be multiplied as much as
possible. Thus the fellow, if he is lazy and has
turned his piety to the goi <l account of getting
smart wives, may really board around continually,
and live in clover, at no personal expense but his
own clothing. Is not this a divine institution, in-
deed!

When President Young goes on a journey through
the Territory, on private or public business, he takes
a considerable retinue with him, and always a wife
and a barber. The former is more his servant than
his companion in such cases, however. His house-
hold is said to be admirably managed. A son-in-

1-,.

126

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

law acts as commissary ; the wives have nothing to
do with the table or its supply ; and whenever they
want new clothes or pocket money, they must go
to this chief of staft" or head of the family bureau.
Considering his opportunities, the head of the
Church of Latter Day Saints has made a rather
sorry selection of women on the score of beauty.
The oldest or first is a matronly-looking old lady,
serene and sober; the youngest and present pet,
who was obtained, they say, after much seeking, is
comely but common- looking, despite the extra mil-
linery in which she alone of the entire family in-
dulges. The second president and favorite prophet
of the church, Heber Kimball, who in church and
theater keeps the cold from his bare head and the
divine afflatus in by throwing a red bandanna hand-
kerchief over it, is even less fortunate in the beauty
of his wives ; it is rather an imposition upon the
word beauty, indeed, to suggest it in their presence.
Handsome women and girls, in fact, are scarce
among the Mormons of Salt Lake, — the fewer
" Gentiles " can show many more of them. Why is
this ? Is beauty more esthetic and ascetic ? Or,
good-looking women being supposed to have more
chances for matrimony than their plainer sisters,
do they all insist upon having the whole of one
man, and leave the Mormon husbands to those
whose choice is like Hobson's? The only polyga-
mist, into whose family circle we were freely admit-
ted, had, however, found two very pretty women to
divide him between them ; and I must confess they
appeared to take their share of him quite resignedly.

ENT.

:s have nothing to

p**

nd whenever they

ley, they must go

he family bureau.

the head of the

as made a rather "^

; score of beauty.

•

-looking old lady,

and present pet,

much seeking, is

3ite the extra mil-

entire family in-

d favorite prophet

ho in church and

are head and the

d bandanna hand- .,

•

nate in the beauty

josition upon the

in their presence.

n fact, are scarce

Lake, — the fewer

of them. Why is
ind ascetic? Or,

Dsed to have more

ir plainer sisters,

the whole of one

Lisbands to those ■•

The only polyga-

were freely admit-

' pretty women to

must confess they '

BRIGHAMS CHILDREN.

127

1 quite resignedly,

if not amicably. They were English, and of nearly
equal years ; appeared together in the parlor and in
public with their husband, and dressed alike ; but
they had the same quiet, subdued, half-sad air that
characterized all the Mormon women, young and
old, that I saw in prblic or private. There is cer-
tainly none of that "loudness" about the Mormon
ladies, that an eastern man cannot help observing
in the manners of our western women generally.
And I hardly think the difference is to be attribu-
ted to the superior refinement and culture of the
sisters of the Salt Lake Basin ; it rather and really
is the sign and mark of their servitude, their de-
basement.

Brigham Young's younger children, as seen in his
school, to which we were admitted, look sprightly
and bright and handsome ; and some of his gp'own
up daughters are comely and clever ; but his older
sons give no marked sign of their father's smart-
ness. The oldest, Brigham Jr., is mainly distin-
guished for his size and strength, — he weighs two to
three hundred pounds, and is muscular in propor-
tion. He has now taken one of his wives and gone
to England with her, on business for the church.
The next son, John, is a poor, puny looking fellov,
with several wives and an inordinate love for whis-
key. Brigham's dynasty will die with himself.

There is no more love lost between the soldiers
and the Mormons than between the soldiers and
the Indians. The "boys in blue" regard both as
their natural enemies, and the enemies of order and
the government ; and the feeling is cordially recip-

128

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

rocated. General Connor, the commander of the
military force in Utah, has never even seen Brigbam
Young ; and the latter, it is quite certain, has no
desire ever to see him. There is a provost guard
of soldiers in Salt Lake City, but the rent of the
building which it occupies is about expiring, and,
according to a Mormon way of getting rid of an
uncomfortable presence, none other is now to be
had in its place. Every building singularly hap-
pens to be occupied or engaged just now; and the
Mormons have evidently hoped to thus drive all
these standing menaces, and seducers of their wo-
men, as they add the soldiers all are, out of town
and into the camp, two miles distant. But when
Mr. Colfax suggested to two or three of the elders
that such a result could only be interpreted at
Washington as a compact and contrivance to em-
barrass the soldiers and defy the government, they
seen.ed to be incited to a new and original line of
thought; and the probability is that the provost
guard will be able to find some unoccupied build-
ing, that had not been before thought of.

One of the characters of Mormondom is Porter
Rockwell, the accredited leader of the Danites or
"Avenging Angels" of the church. We were pre-
sented to him, and were invited to eat strawberries
and cream at his "ranch," but our engagements did
not permit our accepting and partaking. Though
given to heavy whiskey drinking of late years, he
is as mild a mannered man as ever scuttled ship or
murdered crews ; and I really do not think that any
anxiety for our lives entered into our declination of

«IENT.

lommander of the
:ven seen Brigbam
ite certain, has no
is a provost guard
at the rent of the
lOUt expiring, and,
getting rid of an
her is now to be
ig singularly hap-
just now; and the

to thus drive all
ucers of their wo-
1 are, out of town
stant. But when
hree of the elders
be interpreted at
ontrivance to em-
government, they
id original line of

that the provost
unoccupied build-
iight of.

nondom is Porter
of the Danites or
h. We were pre-
eat strawberries

engagements did
rtaking. Though

of late years, he
5r scuttled ship or
lot think that any
3ur declination of

PORTER ROCKWELL, "THE AVENGER." 1 29

his hospitality, inexplicable as it may seem that
for any less reason we should have omitted any
opportunity at strawberries. There is a difference
of opinion, even among the "Gentiles," as to his
real share in the mysterious and terrible takings-
off of parties in bad odor with the ;,aints of the
church; though unlettered, he is strong-minded
and strong-hearted, and, unless under the influence
. of a shocking fanaticism, I can hardly believe, from
his appearance and manners, he could be guilty of
such crimes as are laid at his door by the more im-
placable and suspicious of the "Gentile" residents.
I should not be willing, however, to see Mr. Fitz-
hugh Ludlow fall in his way again ; there might 'lot
be murder, but the author of the largely imagina-
tive articles in the Atlantic Monthly on this west-
ern journey would certainly feel the sharp ven-
geance of the injured and irate "Avenger." Mr.
Ludlow tells the worst stories about Rockwell, such
as that he had committed about fifty murders for
the church and as many more on private account,
as if accepted, proved facts ; at the same time- that
he acknowledges being his guest, and availing him-
self of his courtesies to see the country. Porter
shuts his teeth hard when the subject is now men-
tioned, and mutters that he supposes "it is all
wheat," this being Utah idiom for all right. Which
means, of course, that he don't suppose any such
thing.

There is little or no immigration to the Mormons
this season, at least not yet. They have been send-
ing out fresh relays of missionaries and recruiting
6» 9

130

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

agents to England and the Continent of Europe,
and expect great returns next year. On the Sand-
wich Isli^nds they seem to have estabUshed a per-
manent colony, also, to which has just been con-
tributed a new company of about fifty, men, women
and children from Utah. Some of the "Gentiles"
believe this Sandwich Island movement is towards
a new and contingent base ; and that if hard pressed
here by the progress of civilization and the hand-
of authority, the Mormon leaders will gather up all
their available forces and wealth, and retreat thither.
It is certain that they must make a change of base
of one sort or another before long, either in the
matter of polygamy, or else in the locr^tion of their
earthly tabernacles and kingdom. Even without
the interference of government, they must soon
give way here, in their peculiar sway and their re-
volting institution, before the progress of population
and the diversification of civilized industry that
comes along with it. Our bachelor stage-driver
out of Salt Lake, who said he expected to have a
revelation soon to take one of the extra wives of
a Mormon saint, is a representative of the Coming
Man. Let the Mormons look out foi him.

^aemmmmimmm

.L.„

ENT.

tinent of Europe,
ir. On the Sand-
established a per-
is just been con-
fifty, men, women
of the "Gentiles"
cement is towards
lat if hard pressed
on and the hand-
will gather up all
nd retreat thither,
a change of base
ing, either in the
2 locrttion of their
1. Even without
they must soon
iway and their re-
ress of population
ted industry that
lelor stage-driver
icpected to have a
Sie extra wives of
ve of the Coming
t foi him.

LETTER XIV.

THE RIDE THROUGH THE SAGE BRUSH AND THE
GREAT BASIN.

Virginia, Nevada, June 28.
We are nearly out of the Sage Brush ! Nearly
into a "white ccruntry," where the grass grows
.green, and water runs, and trees mount skyward
and spread sweet shade. Like some of the dry,
barren plains that lead up to the Rocky Moun-
tains on the east, the six hundred miles we have
come over from Salt Lake to this point, pass throu^rh
a region whose uses are unimaginable, unless to
hold the rest of the globe together, or to teach pa-
tience to travelers, or to keep close-locked in its
mountain ranges those rich mineral treasures that
the world did not need or was not ready for until
now. The Basin of the Great Salt Lake, that I
briefly described in a late letter as the center of the
Mormon development, is but the south-eastern and
most fertile corner of an immensely large intra-
mountain basin, that has no water outlet to the
ocean, that absorbs all the water developed within
its limits, and cries, oh how hungrily for more,
whose chief natural vegetable product is Sage

!■

132

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

Brush, and which holds within its bounds the great,
if not the sole, silver mines of the nation.

This Great Desert Basin, — but desert only because
comparatively waterless, — lies on the very central
and commercial line of the Republic, —the line of
greatest population and thrift and wealth both east
and west of it, — stretches three hundred miles from
north to south and six hundred miles from east to
west, is about equally divided between the two states
of Utah and Nevada, and is walled in on the one
side by the Rocky Mountains and on the other by
the Sierra Nevadas. Not a wide, unbroken plain,
however, is this vast basin desert of the W^est.
Through it, north and south, run subsidiary ranges
of mountains, averaging at least one to every fifty
miles, and the intervening valleys or plains all dip,
though almost imperceptibly, to the center, which
gratefully suggests that they were once not alto-
gether so tearless as now. Mountain and plain are
alike above dew point ; rain is a rarity, — near neigh-
bor to absolute stranger ; and only an occasional
range of the hills mounts so high as to hold its
winter snows into the sumn?er suns, and yield the
summer streams that give, at rare intervals, sweet
lines of green, affording forage for cattle and re-
freshment and rest for traveler. Springs are even
more infrequent, but not altogether unknown, and
water may sometimes, though very hardly, be got,
when all else fails, by digging deep wells. Such
streams as rise from springs or snow-banks in the
mountains, begin to shrink as they reach the Plains,
and end in s^lt lakes, or sink quietly into the fam-

ENT.

bounds the great,
e nation.

esert only because
the very central
iblic, — the line of
I wealth both east
jndred miles from
miles from east to
ecn the two states
ied in on the one
d on the other by
;, unbroken plain,
ert of the West,
subsidiary ranges
one to every fifty
i or plains all dip,
the center, which
re once not alto-
tain and plain are
rity, — near neigh-
nly an occasional
gh as to hold its
uns, and yield the
re intervals, sweet
"or cattle and re-
Springs are even
ler unknown, and
ry hardly, be got,
leep wells. Such
mow-banks in the
r reach the Plains,
ietly into the fam-

THE RIVERS OF THE GREAT BASIN.

133

ishing earth. Humboldt River, the largest and
longest of the basin, runs west and south from three
hundred to five hundred miles, and then finds igno-
minious end in a "sink," or, in a very natural big
disgust at the impossibility of the job it has under-
taken, quietly "peters out." So of the Carson
River, which comes from the Sierra Ncvadas on
the west, and finds its home in a lagoon within
sight of its parent peakt. Reese River, now so fa-
mous as localizing the new and extensive silver
mining operations about Austin, is but a sluggish
brook that the shortest-legged man could step across
at its widest, and yields itself up to the hot sands
without greening but a narrow line in the broad
plain in which it runs. And yet it is the largest
and almost only stream that we met in traveling
westward from the Jordan which waters the valley
of Salt Lake ; and the two are four hundred miles
apart !

Through this wide stretch of treeless mountain
and plain, at its center, — fifty to one hundred miles
below the old and more fortunately watered emi-
grant route along the valley of the Humboldt, — on a
nearly straight line west, we have made the most
rapid stage ride yet achieved on the great overland
line, and the equal perhaps of any ever made of
like distance on the Continent. Mr. Holladay's
ownership ceases at Salt Lake ; from there hither,
the stages are run by the Overland Mail Company,
whose stockholders are New Yorkers, and mainly
the same as those of the great express company of
Wells, Fargo *t Co., which monopolizes the express

134

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

business in all these western States and Territories,
having its offices in every town and village, and ex-
tending its routes as fast and as far as the most
enterprising prospectors successfully push their
hunt for the precious metals. At Salt Lake City,
therefore, wc parted with our protector and com-
panion, thus far, Mr. Otis,— with many a rare mem-
ory of his good fellowship,— and found new friends
and careful protection on our farther journey in
the officers and drivers of the Overiand Company.
Their part of the line has been happily exempt, for
now two years, from the inroads of the Indians;
it is all nearer to good markets than most of Mr.
Holladay's ; and so we naturally found it in better
condition, and able to run more promptly and regu-
larly. .Ambitious to see how fast they could send
Mr. Colfax and his friends over their route, they
took us up at Salt Lake on Monday morning week,
and ,5et us down at Austin, four hundred miles dis-
tant, in fifty hours, or two-thirds the time usually
taken. Awaiting our examination of the mining
region about Austin, we were again put over the
road on the double quick, and landed in Virginia,
two hundred miles farther oft, in twenty-two hours
more, or fourteen less than the schedule time ; and
so came into this town at six o'clock Sunday morn-
ing, while all the elements of a magnificent popular
reception, that had been arranged for the night be-
fore, were fast asleep in bed, and totally undreaming
of the march that we were stealing upon them.
Here, we are near the foot of the Sierra Nevadas,
on the borders of California, and will be transferred,

lENT.

es and Territories,
nd village, and cx-
is far as the most
isfully push their
it Salt Lake City,
"otector and corn-
many a rare mem-
found new friends
farther journey in
iverland Company,
lappily exempt, for
Is of the Indians;
than most of Mr.
' found it in better
oromptly and regu-
st they could send
r their route, they
day morning week,
hundred miles dis-
s the time usually
ion of the mining
igain put over the
landed in Virginia,
1 twenty-two hours
schedule time ; and
lock Sunday morn-
nagnificent popular
id for the night be-
totally undreaming
:ealing upon them,
he Sierra Nevadas,
'. will be transferred,

A FAST STAGE RIDE.

135

for our farther progress, to still another line of
coaches.

But our fast ride by the Overland Mail stages
from Salt Lake will always be a chief feature in the
history and memory of our grand journe^ across
the Continent. The stations of the company are
ten to fifteen miles apart ; at every station fresh
horses, ready harnessed, took the places of the qld,
with a delay of from two to four minutes only;
every fifty miles a new driver took his place on the
box ; wherever meals were to be eaten, they were
ready to serve on arrival ; and so, with horses ever
fresh and fat, and gamey,— horses that would shine
in Central Park and Fifth Avenue equipages, — with
drivers, gentlemanly, intelligent and better dressed
than their passengers, and a division superintend-
ent, who had planned the ride and came along to
see it executed, for each two hundred miles, — we
were whirled over the rough mountains and through
the dry and dusty plains of this uninhabited and
uninhabitable region, rarely passing a house except
the stage stations, never seeing wild bird or beast,
for there were none to see, as rapidly and as regu-
larly as we could have been over macadamized
roads amid a complete civilization. The speed
rarely feii l low eight miles an hour, and often ran
up to twelve. But so wisely was all arranged, and
so well executed, that not an animal suffered ; to
horses and men the ride *.eemed to be the work of
every day, as indeed it was in everything but our
higher rate of speed.

But the passengers are content that it should be

i3<5

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

f^'''i

a sinRlc experience for them ; they are glad to have
had it, but will spare their friends a repetition,— at
present. The allcali dust, dry with a season's sun,
fine with the grinding of a season's stages and
freight trains, was thick and constant and pene-
trating beyond experience and eomparison. It filled
the air,— it was the air ; it covered our bodies,— it
penetrated them ; it soared to Almighty attributes,
and became omnipresent, and finding its way into
bags and trunks, begrimed all our clean clothes and
reduced everything and everybody to a common
plane of dirt, with a soda, soapy flavor to all.

This alkali element in the soil of all this region,
as of much of the country on the other side of the
Rocky Mountains, I have heard no explanation of.
In some spots it prevails to such a degree as to clean
the ground of all, even the most barren vegetation ;
and wide, smooth, bare alkali plains stretch out be-
fore the eye sometimes for miles, and white in the
distance like a snow-bank. In some places so strong
is it that the earth when wet rises like bread under
yeast. It taints the water everywhere, and some-
times so strongly that bread -mixed with it needs no
other " rising." Yet I find no evidence of any gen-
eral unhealthy effect from its presence ; animals eat
the grass and drink the water flavored with it ; and
though the dust chokes all pores and makes the
nose and lips sore, the inconvenience and annoy-
ance seem to be but temporary from even large
doses of it.

Then the jolts of the rocks and the "chuck holes"
of the road, to which the drivers in their rapid prog-

r
t
t
r
s
r
t
s
b
ti
f(
a
ti
I
li
I
n

it
d

P
tl

S(
S(

g
w

lENT.

y are glad to have
s a repetition, — at
ith a season's sun,
ason's stages and
instant and pene-
mparison. It filled
red our bodies, — it
Imighty attributes,
nding its way into
r clean clothes and
ody to a common

flavor to all.

1 of all this region,

le other side of the

no explanation of.
a degree as to clean
; barren vegetation ;
ains stretch out be-
;s, and white in the
ime places so strong
ies like bread under
ry where, and some-
Lcd with it needs no
ividence of any gen-
esence ; animals eat
avored with it ; and
ires and makes the
2nience and annoy-
,ry from even large

id the "chuck holes"
3 in their rapid prog-

MR. GREELEY AND HANK MONK, THE DRIVER. 1 37

ress could give no heed, kept us in a somewhat per-
petual and not altogether graceful motion. There
was certainly small sleep to be enjoyed during this
memorable ride of three days and nights ; and
though we made the best of it with joke and felici-
tation at each other's discomfort, there was none
not glad when it was over. The drivers all had the
same consolation to administer to us for the rough
riding, and that was the story, memorable all along
this route, of Mr. Greeley's experience upon it some
six years ago. He had met rather a dull driver, was
behind time, and became impatient, as he had a lec-
ture engagement just over the mountains in Cali-
fornia. So when he struck the mountain road, and
a noted driver then and still, — for stage driving is a
trade that men follow through their lives, — by name
Hank Monk, kr. Greeley suggested that he would
like to get over the road a triflg faster. " Yes," said
Hank, as he gathered up the reins of six half-wild
mustangs, then in common use on the road, — "keep
your seat Mr. Greeley, and I will get you through
in time." Crack went his whip; the mustangs
dashed into a fearful pace, up hill and down, along
precipices frightful to look at, over rocks that kept
the noted passenger passing frantically between
seat and ceiling of the coach; — the philosopher
soon was getting more than he bargained for ; and
at the first soft place on the road, he mildly sug-
gested to the driver that a half an hour more or less
would not make much difference. But Monk was
in for his drive and his joke, and replied again, with
a twinkle in his left eye, after a fresh cut at his mus-

138

ACKOSS THE CONTINENT.

tangs, "Just keep your scat, Mr. Greeley, and you
shall be through in time." Mr. Greeley kept his
seat so well as he could, got through on time, and
better, unharmed, though greatly to his surprise, in
view of the dangers and roughness of the drive,
and rewarded the driver, who had served him the
rough joke, with a new suit of clothes. The story
is now classic with all the drivers and all travelers
on the road ; and Monk wears a watch with his re-
ply to Mr. Greeley engraved on the case, — the pres-
ent of some other passengers, whom he had driven
both rapidly and safely over his perilous route.
The road is better now ; and the horses tamer ; but
the driving is hardly less fearful.

It is an interesting problem whether these un-
promising valleys, gray and brown with an unnat-
ural sunshine, can ever be subdued to the service
of the population that the mineral wealth of their
hills invites and will inevitably draw into them.
Save a sandy desert of sixty miles wide, which
comes after the fertile strip of eastern Utah is
passed, there is nothing in the soil itself that for-
bids valuable uses. It is made up of the wash and
waste of the Rocky Mountains, and wherever even
moderifely watered is very productive. Some the-
orists contend that with the occupation and use of
the country, rains will multiply ; and the observa-
tions of the Mormons give a faint encouragement
to this idea. Another theory is, that by ploM^ing
during the later rains of spring, and soWing during
the long, dry summer rest, the smaller and hardy
grains will sprout with the fall rains, strengthen in

INENT.

r. Greeley, and you
r. Greeley kept his
rough on time, and
y to his surprise, in
hness of the. drive,
tiad served him the
clothes. The story
irs and all travelers
a watch with his re-
the case, — the prcs-
A'hom he had driven
his perilous route,
c horses tamer ; but
1.

» whether these un-
rown with an unnat-
jdued to the service
neral wealth of their
jly draw into them.
f miles wide, which
of eastern Utah is
e soil itself that fnr-
e up of the wash and
s, and wherever even
oductive. Some the-
iccupation and use of
ly ; and the observa-
faint encouragement
\f is, that by plowcing
g, and sowing during
le smaller and hardy
1 rains, strengthen in

THE BEAUTY OH THE HILLS.

139

the winter, and quickly ripen in the early spring.
Such treatment involves a year's fallow, as the har-
vest would be too late for another plowing; the same
sspriuK. This culture is doubtless practicable, as it
has been proven, in the high sage brush plains in
California; but it would seem as if these alkaline
valleys of the great interior basin were too cold,
and go dry too long, for like successful treatment.
It is worthy intelligent and persistent experiment,
however ; for I observe that wherever the sage bush
can grow, other things can and will with the addi-
tion of water.

Do not think such a country is altogether with-
out beauty or interest for a traveler. Mountains arc
always beautiful ; and here they are ever in sight,
wearing every variety of shape, and even in their
hard and bare surfaces presenting many a fascina-
tion of form, — running up into sharp peaks ; rising
up and rounding out into innumerable iat mam-
millas, exquisitely shapen, and inviting possibly to
auriferous feasts ; sloping down into faint foot-hills,
and mingling with the plain to which they are all
destined; and now and then offering the silvery
streak of snow, that is the sign of water for man
and the promise of grass for ox. Add to the moun-
tains the clear, pure, rare atmosphere, bringing re-
mote objects close, giving new size and distinctness
to moon and^stars, offering sunsets and sunrises of
indescribable richness and reach of color, and ac-
companied with cloudless skies and a south wind,
refreshing at all times, and cool and exhilarating
ever in the afternoon and evening; and you have

^ssamm

<-wt

iil

140

ACROSS THS CONTINENT.

large compensations even for the lack of vegeta-
tion and color in the landscape. There is a rich
exhilaration, especially, in the fresh evening air, dry,
clear and strengthening, that no eastern mountain
or ocean breeze can rival. In looking out through
it at sunset on the starry heavens, and in taking in
its subtle inspiration, one almost forgets alkali, and
for the nonce does not remember flowers and grass
and trees.

'"^

18
N(
un
an
cu
m(
ra1
foi
sis
shi
Ca
th(
in
coi
Fr
vai
ale
sh;
en
th«

NENT.

he lack of vegcta-
!. There is a rich
:sh evening air, dry,
) eastern mountain
Doking out through
IS, and in taking in
t forgets alkali, and
;r flowers and grass

LETTER XV.

THE SILVER MINES OF NEVADA— AUSTIN AND
VIRGINIA CITY.

Virginia, Nevada, June 27.
California, mature at eleven, plants a colony in
1859-60, which ripens into a new State in 1864.
Nevada is the first child of California. As bachelor
uncles and fond friends sometimes think children
are born in order to wheedle them out of silver
cups; so Nevada sprang into being under like
metallic influence. And if she promised to give,
rather than to get, she fails yet to keep full faith ;
for though in her six years c. Ife, she has yielded
sixty millions of material for pure coin of the realm,
she has absorbed much more than that amount of
California capital and labor. Coming west out of
the barren plains of the great interior basin, — even
in their midst, — we strike the first wave of Pacific
coast life at Austin. Five hundred miles from San
Francisco, two hundred miles from the Sierra Ne-
vadas, in middle Nevada, huddled and incoherent
along the steep hill-sides of a close canyon, running
sharply up from the Reese River valley, lies the east-
ernmdst and freshest mining town of the State and
the section.

Pii

llil

142

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

Two'years old, Austin has already had a popula-
tion of six or eight thousand, cast one thousand
nine hundred votes at the presidential election, and,
now, experiencing its first reaction, falls back to
four thousand inhabitants. It bears family likeness
to Central City and Black Hawk in Colorado;
houses are buiit anywhere and everywhere, and
streets are then made to reach them ; one side of
a house will be four stories and the other but two,—
such is the lay of the land ; not a tree nor a flower,
nor a grass plot does the whole town boast,— not
one ; but it has the best French restaurant I have
met since New York, a daily newspaper, and the
boot-blacks and barbers, and baths are luxurious
and aristocratic to the continental degree ;— while
one of the finest specimens of feminine physical
beauty and grace presides over a lager beer saloon ;
gambling riots openly in the large area of every
drinking shop,— miners risking to this chance at
night the proceeds of the scarcely less doubtful
chance of the day ; and weak-minded and curious
strangers are tempted by such advertisements as
this :— •

Mammoth Lager Beer Saloon, in the basement, comer Main and
Virginia streets, Austin, Nevada. Choice liquors, wines, lager beer
and cigars, served by pretty girls, who understand their business
and attend to it Votaries o'. Bacchus, Gambrinus, Venus or Cupid
can spend an evening agreeably at the Mammoth Saloon.

Both inquisitive and classical, we went in search
of this bower of the senses ; and we found a cellar,
whitewasheij and sawdusted ; two fiddles and a clar-
ionet in one corner ; a bar of liquors glaring in an-

otl
era
cla
ogi
Cu
les
oui

an(
mi
are
Ba
tai;
sig
sue
wi<
grs
mil
sor
thr
ad\
rel;
poi
tin
req
Iik(
ter
to I
bei
bee
cor
of

ENT.

ady had a popula-
ast one thousand
ntial election, and,
;ion, falls back to
ars family likeness
iwk in Colorado;
: everywhere, and
them; one side of
le other but two, —
I tree nor a flower,
; town boast, — not

restaurant I have
ewspaper, and the
aths are luxurious
tal degree ;— while

feminine physical
L lager beer saloon ;
arge area of every
; to this chance at
rcely less doubtful
linded and curious

advertisements as

isement, comer Main and
: liquors, wines, lager beer
jnderstand their business
ambrinus, Venus or Cupid
ammoth Saloon.

we went in search
id we found a cellar,
vo fiddles and a clar-
quors glaring in an-

MYTHOLOGY AND MINES AT AUSTIN.

143

other ; and a fat, coarse Jew girl proved the sole
embodiment and representative of all these pro-
claimed gods and goddesses. We blushingly apol-
ogized, and retired with our faces to Mistress Venus,
Cupid, etc., as guests retire from mortal monarchs, —
lest our pockets should be picked ; and we shall take
our mythology out of the dictionaries hereafter.

All up the Austin hill-sides, among the houses,
and beyond them, are the big ant-hills that denote
mines or the hopes of such. Down in the valley
are the mills for crushing and separating the ore.
Back and around the corners, and over the moun-
tains for many miles, are similar though less frequent
signs. The main Austin^ belt, however, has been
successfully traced for but five miles, and one in
width. The veins of ore lie thick in the rotten
granite of the hills, like the spread fingers of some
mineral giant. They are also comparatively small,
sometimes as inches, rarely widening to more than
three or four feet. But to compensate for this dis-
advantage, they are exceeding rich and generally
reliable. But then again, the metal is so com-
pounded with sulphurets of other metals, with an-
timony and arsenic, that it is hard to extract, and
requires a roasting, burning, or smelting process,
like the gold ores of Colorado, in addition and in-
termediate to those of crushing and amalgamating,
to successful operation. About fifty veins are now
being worked successfully, and as many more have
been satisfactorily prospected,, and are being put in
condition for operating, or are awaiting the coming
of capital and its machinery. Water flows into all

laUMMM ' ltf l t.W a eJ B iS ^' lW-'^iW'**''''''*

mm^.

144

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

the veins freely, and much labor is required to pump
it out. The first necessity of every mine, indeed,
is a steam engine and hoisting apparatus, to draw
up water and ore from the bottom of the shaft or
tunnel. But few of the mines have mills connected
with them ; several of the older and strong compa-
nies only combine both operations, and make the
two profits. The mills are located with regard to
wood and water, rather than to the ore, and the lat-
ter is carted sometimes for miles to be worked.
Half a dozen mills, working some seventy-five
stamps in all, are already put up in the Austin and
neighboring canyons; but only about fifty stamps
are now at wprk. The, number will speedily be
doubled by mills going up or undergoing repair.
The ore yields from one hundred to four hundred
dollars in silver and gold per ton ; but at present
prices, it costs nearly or quite one hundred dol-
lars to mine and work it, so that which yields only
one hundred dollars cannot be profitably worked.
Consequently miners, who have no mills, separate
their ores, and hire worked out only the most valu-
able, saving the rest up until competition brings
down the price of milling, or they erect mills of
their own. The charge for working the ores at the
mills is eighty dollars a ton, about half of which is
profit. The sai e description of work can be hired
done here at Virginia for thirty to forty dollars per
ton. The ore of one mine near A\istin has aver-
aged one hundred and eighty dollars a ton for many
months, and yields a net profit of at least eighty
dollars a ton to its owners. Another company,

on
in]
fifi
st<
ex
dr
th

an
dr
vvi
pe
to
th(
no

ne
wi
su
be

tr£

fre

dis

NENT.

is required to pump
:very mine, indeed,
apparatus, to draw
;om of the shaft or
ave mills connected
and strong compa-
ons, and make the
ited with regard to
the ore, and the lat-
iles to be worked.

some seventy-five
D in the Austin and

about fifty stamps
er will speedily be

undergoing repair,
ed to four hundred
ton; but at present
; one hundred dol-
it which yields only
2 profitably worked,
e no mills, separate

only the most valu-

competition brings
they erect mills of
rking the ores at the
out half of which is
jf work can be hired
y to forty dollars per
■ar A\istin has aver-
lollars a ton for many
it of at least eighty

Another company,

CASES OF SUCCESSFUL MINING.

145

owning both mill and mines, finds its ores yielding
one hundred and fifty dollars a ton without assort-
ing, and the cost of getting out and working is but
fifty dollars ; so that, working six tons a day, their
steady profits are six hundred dollars daily, on an
expenditure, in investments, of less than two hun-
dred thousand dollars, and the employment of about
thirty men.

New York companies are "now coming in here
and putting up fine new establishments. One hun-
dred thousand dollars will pay for a fine large mill
with "fifteen to twenty stamps. Promising, pros-
pected mines can be bought for from ten thousand
to one hundred thousand dollars, depending upon
the extent of their claims on the surface, and the
notoriety they have attained, as well as upon the
gullibility of the purchasers. It is not advisable for
new enterprises to erect mills, first because there
will probably soon be enough in the region to
supply present wants at a fair price, and secon^,
because so soon as a cheaper and more speedy
communication can be obtained, the ores will be
transferred to other places, where fuel and water
are more abundant, for milling. Even now, with
freight ten to twelve cents a pound from Austin to
San Francisco, all the ore from one mine in Austin
is sent to Engl&nd to be worked. It is so valuable
and yet so refractory that it pays to send it this long
distance in order to give it a cheap but complete
manipulation.

New discoveries of valuable ore are constantly

making both in the immediate neighborhood of

MMWi g *!iw^--j'vw g i a ii ' wmiJM-

146 ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

Austin, and far south and north on the same range
of mountains. In both directions veins equally
rich and much larger have been found ; and many
parties are busy prospecting. Scattered mills are
also in operation in these more remote localities;
and many a mining village is struggling for notu-
riety among the Humboldt mountains to the north-
west. But Austin is the chief point of mining
population and development in central Nevada, as
Virginia is in western ; and the two are by far the
most conspicuous and representative points of the
silver mining interest on the Pacific Coast.

But Virginia presents many contrasts to Austin.
It is three or four years older ; it puts its gambling
behind an extra door ; it is beginning to recognize
the Sabbath, has many churches open, and closes
part of its stores on that day ; is exceedingly well
built, in large proportion with solid brick stores and
warehouses; and though the fast and fascinating
times of 1862-63 are over, when it held from fifteen
thousand to twenty thousand people, and Broadway
and Wall street were not more crowded than its
streets, it has a thrifty and enterprising air, and con-
tains a population of ten thousand, besides the ad-
joining town or extension of Gold Hill, which has
about three thousand more.

The. situation of Virginia is very picturesque;
abo#e the canyon or ravine, it is spread along the
mountain side, like the roof of a house, about half
way to the top. Right above rises a noble peak,
fifteen hundred feet higher than the town, itself
about six thousand feet "high ; below stretches the

foo
sisi
anc
as
tan
pre
]
tin,
of
alo
of
om
ist
woi
the
of
sea
var
At
ha\
cor

StOi

has
of'
the
its
vail
but
spe
but
lief
and

<ENT.

on the same range
ons veins equally

found; and many
Scattered mills are

remote localities ;
Tuggling for noto-
itains to the norlh-
f point of mining
central Nevada, as

two are by far the
ative points of the
;ific Coast,
ontrasts to Austin,
t puts its gambling
nning to recognize
s open, and closes
is exceedingly well
lid brick stores and
ist and fascinating
it held from fifteen
ople, and Broadway
: crowded than its
irising air, and con-
.nd, besides the ad-
ald Hill, which has

I very picturesque;
is spread along the
a house, about half
rises a noble peak,
lan the town, itself
below stretches the

THE COMSTOCK LEDGE AT VIRGINIA.

foot-hill, bisected by the ravine ; around on all sides,
sister hills rise in varyirfg hights, rich in roundness
and other forms of beauty, but brown in barrenness,
as if shorn for prize fight, and fading out into dis-
tant plain, with a sweet green spot to mark the rare
presence of water and verdure.

Different, too, in its mines is Virginia from Aus-
tin. Instead of numerous little veins, the wealth
of Virginia lies in one grand ledge of ore, running
along the mountain side, just within the upper line
of the town, for three miles ; of width, from fifty to
one hundred feet, and of depth incalculable. This
is the famous Comstock Ledge ; and no silver mines
worth working have yet been found off from it, in
the neighborhood of Virginia; though thousands
of dollars and years of labor have been spent in the
search. Nor has the working of this ledge at its
various points beer attended with uniform success.
At least as many c i..panies have failed upon it as
have succeeded. Only fourteen out of about thirty
companies formed and still at work upon the Com-
stock Ledge have paid dividends. C'ne company
has spent over a million dollars in the vain pursuit
of "pay ore ;" the vein it has, the ore it finds, but
the latter is not rich enough to pay for milling. But
it still goes on, seduced by the hope of finding the
valuable streak which its neighbor had yesterday,
but may have lost to-day. Other companies have
spent hundreds of thousands for vain expectations ;
but still hold on, some of them alt least, in the be-
lief that a lower point in the lode will develop sure
and recompensing wealth. The success of other

-.4

-L

148

i^CROSS THIi CONTINENT.

V,-

companies has been more marked even than these
failuies, though they be fewer in number.

The Gould & Curry is the largest and most fa-
mous enterprise heie. It has twelve hundred feet
in length on the surface of the ledge, has dug down
six hundred to eight hundred feet in depth, and
t>ack and forth on its line twenty or thirty times ;
its whole excavations foot up five millions of cubic
feet, and afford some two miles of underground
travel, and it has consumed more lumber to brace
up the walls of its tunnels than entire city of
Virginia above ground has used .or i its build-
ings. This company own the 'irge-^i and finest
mill probably in the world, costing nearly a million
of dollars, and running eighty sta'vips. This mam-
moth enterprise has only drawn one hundred and
eighty thousand dollars froi 'ts stockholders, and
has paid them back four uullions in dividends.
Altogether, it has produced twelve millions of bul-
lion, and but for extravagance in management and
the necessity for many a blind and expensive ex-
periment, its profit share of this sum would have
been at least fifly, instead of thirty-three, per cent.
In one year the yield of this mine was four and a
half millions, and its profits one million , but with
. a railroad to San Francisco, the latter would have
been swollen to three millions !

This immense development was secured under
the energetic superintendence of Mr. Charles L.
Strong, a native of Easthampton in Hampshire
County, Massachusetts, brother of the brave Gen-
eral Strong who fell in leading the black troops

■.-,. ^ .Mitmm.»'< ~ ^ *^^" ' ;.'M.^}'W i M I '^

INENT.

ccd even than these
n number.

argest and most fa-
twelve hundred feet
ledge, has dug down

feet in depth, and
nty or thirty times ;
ive millions of cubic
les of underground
lore lumber to brace
an entire city of
sed >"3r i Its build-
e 'arge-^^L and finest
ting nearly a million
sta^Tips. This mam-
vn one hundred and
'ts stockholders, and
illions in dividends,
velve millions of bul-

in management and
id and expensive ex-
:his sum would have
thirty-three, per cent.

mine was four and a
)ne million , but with
:he latter would have
i!

t was secured under
;e of Mr. Charles L.
npton in Hampshire
cr of the brave Gen-
ing the black troops

THE GOULD AND CURRY MINE.

149

pon the forts of Charleston, and the nephew and
^.idopted son of Mr. A. L. Strong of that village.
Mr. Strong took charge of the Gould & Curry mine
in its infancy, and carried it on to its perfection and
triumph, when, about a year and a half ago, his con-
stitution gave way under its great responsibility and
work, and he was forced to retire. At one time, the
mine sold at the rate of six thousand dollars a foot,
but now it is down to about eighteen hundred ; for,
though it is producing bullion at the rate of two
millions a year, and pays handsome monthly divi-
dends uninterruptedly, it has about exhausted all
the valuable ore in its mine at the present depth,
and is working up mainly the poorer ore that it re-
jected in its first progress through the vein. The
company is now making an important experiment
to find richer ore at a lower depth; and by means
of a tunnel, started half a mile off down the hill,
and a shaft one thousand feet deep, will soon open
the mine that distance down. The future fortunes
of the company hang mainly upon the result of this
enterprise. Not only, indeed, that of the Gould &
Curry, but of most of the enterprises upon the Corn-
stock Ledge. Many of them have reached, or seem
to be reaching, a like point of exhaustion with the
Gould & Curry, and are either making a similar ex-
periment, or are awaiting the results of this. The
promises of a successful finding are certainly quite
encouraging, and they are strengthened by the re-
cent success of some small experiments in the same
direction on distant parts of the ledge, which seem
to indicate improved ore at the greater depths.

^^ LiJK^P i M li Mf"

11 1

150

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

The Ophir Company is another of the mammoth
enterprises. That, too, has taken out twelve niiU
lions of bullion, but the stockholders have not got
much as their share, in consequence of extravagant
and fickle management, and experiments that proved
expensive failures. The Savage Company, owning
another large and successful mine, has taken out
six millions bullion.

That part of the Comstock Ledge lying on Gold
Hill is divided up into smaller properties, such as onq
hundred and two hundred feet, and one as low as
ten feet, measuring on the surface ; and these have
been worked generally to better advantage than the
sections in Virginia. The Empire Company's claim
has sold as high as eighteen thousand dollars per
foot, the highest price ever obtained for any mine
here ; -but it has grown less profitable and inter-
rupted its dividends since, and has fallen to from
three thousand to four thousand dollars a foot.
This company never took any money from its
stockholders, and in only one month through its
operations of some years has it failed to pay ex-
penses. Another successful and now popular com-
pany in Gold Hill is the Yellow Jacket, which has
taken out about two millions of bullion, and paid its
stockholders three hundred and thirty thousand
aoUars, or thirty-five thousand dollars more than all
their assessments. But among its heavy expendi-
tures, which suggests one cause of the ruin of many
of these mining companies, is an item of two hun-
dred and seventy thousand dollars for "legal ser-
vices and quieting title."

tio
thr
anr
pr(
of
thi
toi
foi
of
re
pe
fir
mi
nc
ti(

y»

of
in
m
dc
ar

P'
b(

s»

.... ]

KENT.

er of the mammoth
en out twelve miU
aiders have not got
irkcc of extravagant
Timcnts that proved
i Company, owning
line, has taken out

,edgc lying on Gold
aperties, such as onq
, and one as low as
Lce ; and these have

advantage than thq
ire Company's claim
housand dollars per
tained for any mine
)rofitable and inter-
1 has fallen to from
and dollars a foot,
ly money from its

month through its

it failed to pay ex-
id now popular com-
w Jacket, which has

bullion, and paid its
ind thirty thousand
lollars more than all
J its heavy expendi-
! of the ruin of many
an item of two hun-
lUars for "legal ser-

COST AND PROFIT OF THE VIRGINIA ORES. 151

The Comstock Ledge ore is, with small excep-
tions, much more simple in its combinations than
that at Austin, and requires only to be crushed and
amalgamated to extract the bullion. These two
processes will produce from sixty to eighty per cent,
of all the precious metal. It is also less rich than
the Austin ore ; fifty dollars is a good average per
ton, and is about what the Gould & Curry claims
for what it works of its own ore. But the average
of all the mines is even less than that ; one mine
reports an average yield for the year of but $30.26
per ton ; and the product of the whole ledge for the
first three months of the present year is given to
me as about one hundred thousand tons, yielding
nearly four millions dollars, and averaging a frac-
tion less than forty dollars To meet this lower
yield per ton, however, is a greatly decreased cost
of working the ore, which does not need the roast-
ing or smelting process, and the whole expense of
mining and reducing does not exceed twenty-five
dollars a ton, and is even brought as low as eighteen
and twenty dollars by the Gould & Curry com-
pany. The probability is that even this cost may
be much reduced, and that ore which will yield
but ten and fifteen dollars to the ton can soon be
worked with profit. A choice selection of the
Gould & Curry ore, such as promises one thousand
dollars a ton or over, — for there are streaks of
such in all the mines, — is sent to Swanzey, Wales,
for working ; — this amounts to say fifty tons a year ;
a next lower quality, which will yield two hundred
or three hundred dollars a ton, and amounts to some

152

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

fifty or sixty tons a month, is sent over into the
nci|;hboring valley of Washoe to be treated by the
Freiburg process, which includes the roasting, and
is the same as is necessary for all the Reese River
ores. The balance or bulk of the product is treated
at their own mill, which disposes of about one hun-
dred tons a day, or, if there is an excess, as there
often is, it is worked at some neighboring custom
mills.

There are, in all, seven tjj-sevcn quartz mills
working on ore from the Comstock Ledge, twvMity-
two of which are connected with mines, and fifty-
five are custom mdis. They are located in four
different counties, only about half being in tho
same county with the mines whose ores they crush.
Fifty-four of them are run by steam, twelve by
water, and eleven by water and steam combined.
They have in all one thousand and nineteen stamps,
and their capacity is one thousand eight hundred
and forty-two tons daily, which is only about two-
thirds employed now. The mines have been run-
ning down in daily production, from one thousand
six hundred and forty tons last October to one thou-
sand in June, but they are now increasing again ;
and if the present search for paying ore at lower
depths in the leading mines is realized, it will
speedily go up to a higher point than it ever before
reached. The present product of the whole State
is probably nearly twenty millions dollars a year,
of which Austin is sending forward a million and a
quarter, and Virginia and Gold Hill fifteen to six-
teen millions. Though the bullion, as perfected

.^ 1

INENT.

sent over into the
o be treated by the
:s the roasthig, and
all the Reese River
le prf)dnct is treated
s of about one luin-
an excess, as there
leighboring custom

iCVCM quartz mills
ock Ledge, tw<Mity-
th mines, and fifty-
xre located in four

half being in the
:)se ores they crush.
' steam, twelve by
d steam combined,
id nineteen stamps,
jund eight hundred

is only about two-
nes have been run-
from one thousand
)ctober to one thou-
r increasing again ;
aying ore at lower
is realized, it will

than it ever before
of the whole State
ons dollars a year,
'ard a million and a

Hill fifteen to six-
illion, as perfected

ipBwiipi p ii;

CONCLUSIONS AS TO NEVADA MINES.

155

silver and gold, silver being the predominating and
most available metal.

2. In spite of the scarcity of wood and water,
and the high cost of labor and food, consequent
upon the great distance from supplies, and the lack
of railroad communication, the extraction of these
metals will pay generou»ly for the wise, careful, hon-
est and persevering employment of capital and labor.

3. TheComstock Ledge in Virginia and its neigh-
borhood is being fiiUy developed, and offers no op-
portunities for new enterprises; though as Pacific
capital is not satisfied with less than fifty or seventy-
five per cent, per annum, and eastern is happy with
twenty-five, purchases of some of its mines, or of
interests in them, might be favorably effected from
the latter quarter without the risk of new enter-
prises. But those who undertake such purcJiases,
or indeed any investments in this quarter, must not
think to find these people out here wanting in sharp-
ness at a bargain. Wall street is easily out-man-
aged by Montgomery street, and an old miner, who
is generally a traditional Yankee with large im-
provements, will fool a dozen spectacled professors
from your colleges in a single day. The latter sort
of people are, indeed, at a great discount in this
region, as all the rules of science with which they
come equipped, are outraged and defied by the lo-
cation and combination of ores, rocks, oils and soils
on this side of the Rocky Mountains.

4. The mines of the Reese River district (Aus-
tin, &c.,) though of narrow veins, offer a very prom-
ising field for new enterprises. They are richer,

h III

! !.i'i

1 56

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

and seem to be more certain to hold out tbun those
of the Comstock Ledge ; though in the matter of
continuance they need yet further testing. But no
such enterprise should be entered upon without
first sending an intelhgent agent out to examine
the condition of things, the location of the mines,
their improvements and promises ; and, if not him-
self a miner, he should call to his aid here one of
that class upon whom he can rely for experience
and integrity.

5. Beginners in the business should not be in
haste to buy or erect mills. There is a superabun-
dance to-day of that sort of property on the Pacific
Coast. Those at Virginia and its neighborhood arc
not worth what they cost (six millions) by at least
twenty-five or thirty per cent. ; and stamps and en-
gines^can probably be bought cheaper on this Coast
than they can be bought in New York and shipped
around or across the mountains. The first business
is to work the mine and get out the ore, which can
be crushed at the custom mills, already or soon to
be plenty, in the neighborhood of all the mining
centers ; and then measuring the profits thus real-
ized, and finding them sure and reliable, the mana-
gers can decide whether it is best to extend opera-
tions with them, by buying and -working more mines
or by running their own mills.

6. Everything depends upon an intelligent and
faithful superintendent. I meet many such here,
experienced Californians, Englishmen from the Mex-
ican mines, Germans of both practice and theory
at home. New York and Boston merchants. Fore-

anc

offe

the

ital

fou

in i

sf^e

ifoi

goi

an(

dit

pai
pri
on
ca]
yo
idc
sis
thi
mc

as!
yo
ne
dif
Cc

'lENT.

old out tbun those
I in the matter of
r testing. But no
red upon without
it out to examine
tion of the mines,
i ; and, if not him-
is aid here one of
ely for experience

should not be in
re is a superabun-
erty on the Pacific
neighborhood are
illions) by at least
nd stamps and en-
;aper on this Coast
York and shipped
The first business
the ore, which can
already or soon to
of all the mining
e profits thus real-
reliable, the mana-
t to extend opera-
arking more mines

an intelligent and
many such here,
men from the Mex-
actice and theory
nerchants. Fore-

HINTS TO CAPITALISTS.

157

men of mills and mines, first promoted from pick
and shovel, are good material for such positions,
and are gaining them. The miners as a class are
of a higher grade than eastern laborers, and they
offer many individuals fit for the upper places in
the business. I was impressed with the wisdom of
an organization which a party of Rhode Island cap-
italists had made in Colorado. They combined
four or five different mines and mills, each distinct
in its affairs, under the general management or over-
s^ership of an experienced scientific miner from Cal-
ifornia, and sent along with him from home a com-
mon treasurer and accountant. In this way they
got the benefit of the best talent and experience,
and the most reliable guardianship over the expen-
ditures, without making the cost thereof too heavy.

7. Do not make the capital of your mining com-
pany out of all proportion to the cost of the enter-
prise. Avoid putting up a property, that has cost
one hundred thousand dollars and needs a working
capital of as much more, to two millions, because
you may hope sometime to pay a ten per cent, div-
idend on such a sum. And then, again, do not in-
sist on having a dividend at the end of the first
thirty days, unless you are ready to pay an assess-
ment at the beginning thereof to meet it.

8. When somebody offers you a mine, whose ore
assays one thousand or ten thousand dollars a ton,
you need not necessarily disbelieve him, but do not
necessarily conclude that all its ore, for an indefinite
distance into the earth, is of equal value. The
Com stock Ledge was opened with a chunk that

158

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

ill

yielded twenty thousand to thirty thousana dollars
per ton, or at that rate ; but as I have told you, the
mines on that ledge that are paying at all, do not
average forty dollars from their ore. Every day new
discoj/eries are being made, south and north, in the
State, of lodes whose surface ore pays, according to
report, any 'amount this side of one hundred thou-
sand dollars a ton! yet it does not follow that the
mine below it will even pay for working. For these
are among the doubtful things that are very uncer-
tain in their progress. Even the poorest mines
have their streaks and chunks of rich ore ; do not,
therefore, judge by a single fist-full nor by an assay ;
but invest your money only after you have ascer-
tained how much your mine will practically work
out, cart-load by cart-load, without cuUirtg.

9. And if you have neither time nor money
enough, nor disposition, perhaps, to go largely into
these mining enterprises, and follow their manage-
ment intelligently, but still would like to malje some
small ventures to fortune in this direction, seek out
some company that are in or going into the busi-
ness, on these principles, and that have got a rea-
sonably sure thing of it, and make your investment
with them ; and then be content with twenty-five
per cent, return for your money. If it ) tlda more,
give it away in charity, — if less, or even nothing,
don't swear nor mention it to your wife.

10. And finally, — though the subject, like the
veins, is inexhaustible, — if you read so far as this,
and make profitable use of these suggestions, " re-
member the printer," when the dividends come in.

isl
sa
th
th
C
m
to
th
sa

P<
P'
ar

gi
bi

i-i I

NENT.

ty thousana dollars
[ have told you, the
aying at all, do not
re. Every day new
:h and north, in the
3 pays, according to
one hundred thou-
not follow that the
'orking. For these
hat are very uncer-
the poorest mines
f rich ore ; do not,
ill nor by an assay ;
er you have ascer-
ill practically work
)ut cullirfg.
: time nor money
5, to go largely into
)llow their manage-
1 like to malje some
direction, seek out
oing into the busi-
tiat have got a rea-
<e your investment
It with twenty-five
If it ) -ilds more,
i, or even nothing,
ur wife.

; subject, like the
read so far as this,
e suggestions, " re-
iividends come in.

LETTER XVI.

THE CONTINE>rr ACROSS: THE RIDE OVER THE
SIERRAS.

San Francisco, July 4
AcR^s the Continent! The Great Ride is fin-
ished. Fifteen hundred miles of railroad, two thou-
sand of staging, again sixty miles of railway, and
then one hundred and fifty miles by steamboat down
the Sacramento River, and the goal is reached, the
Continent is spanned. Seven weeks of steady jour-
neying, within hail of a single parallel line from east
to west, and still the Republic ! Still the old flag,—
the town is gay with its. beauty to-day, — still the
same Fourth of July ; — better than all, still the same
people, with hearts aglow with the same loyalty and
pride in the American Union, and the same purpose
and the same faith for its future.

Greater the wonder grows at the extent of the
Republic ; but larger still our wonder at the myste-
rious but unmistakable homogeneity of its people.
San Francisco, looking westward to the Orient for
greatness, cooling its Fummer heats with Pacific
breezes, thinks the same thoughts, breathes the
same patriotism, burns with the same desires that

l60

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

inspire New York and Boston, whose outlook is
eastward, and which seem to borrow their civiliza-
tion with their commerce from Europe. Sacra-
mento talks as you do in Springfield; Nevada,
oyer the mountains, almost out of the world, an-
ticipates New England in her judgments, and makes
up her verdict, while those close to the " Hub of the
Universe " are looking over the testimony.

It is this that is the greatest thing about our coun,
try ; that makes it the wonder of nations, the mar-
vel of history, — the unity of its people in ideas and
purpose; their quick assimilation of all emigra-
tion, — come it so far or so various ; their simul-
taneous and similar currents of thought, their spon-
taneous, concurrent formation and utterance of a
united Public Opinion. This is more than extent
of territory, more than wealth of resource, more
than beauty of landscape, more than variety of cli-
mate and productions, more than maivelous mate-
' al development, more than cosmopolitan popula-
tions, because it exists in spite of them, and con-
quers them all by its subtle electricity.

It is very interesting, indeed, to stand amid this
civilization of half a generation ; to see towns that
were not in 1850, now wearing an old and almost
decaying air ; to walk up and down the close built
streets of this metropolis, and doubt whether they
look most like Paris or New York, Brussels or
Turin ; to count the ocean steamer in the bay, or
passing out through the narrow crack in the coast
hills beautifully called the Golden Gate, and wo'nder
as you finish your fingers where they all came froni

'■I^ISHWSWIPW***'"

Ti tit

niv

sei

an(

del

ev(

sh(

thi

ea:

ce;

th(

ag
Al
<:ei
-il

/•ij
wi

'■\l

tri
pc
th
m
w"

til
to

NENT.

rHii; ( n'lLizATiON of the pacific coast. i6:

whose outlook is
)rrow their civiliza-
1 Europe. Sacm-
ringfield; Nevada,

of the world, an-
gments, and makes
to the " Hub of the
testimony,
ing about our coun,
f nations, the mar-
jeople in ideas and
on of all emigra-
ious ; thei^ simul-
hought, their spon-
ind utterance of a
more than extent
of resourcf-, more
than variety of cli-
11 marvelous mate-
imopolitan popula-
of them, and con-
ricity.

o stand amid this
to see towns that
m old and almost
wn the close built
5ubt whether they
Vork, Brussels or
lei in the bay, or
crack m the coast
Gate, and wonder
hey all came from

airl ar<; ,oing to; to find an agriculture richer and
n: JO ', i/ious than that of Illinois; to feast the
senbes on a horticulture that marries the temperate
and torrid zones, and makes of every yard and gar-
den and orchard one immense eastern green-house ;
to observe a commerce and an industry that supply
every comfort, minister to every taste and fill the
shops with every article of convenience and luxury
that New York or Paris can boast of, and at prices
as cheap as those of the fornier city to-day ; to find
homes more luxurious than are often seen in the
eastern States and to be challenged unsuccessfully
to name the city whose ladies dress more magnifi-
cently than those of San Francisco.

None of this surjmses me. I had large ideas of
the Pacific Coast and its development ; and I long
ago gave up being surprised at any victories of the
American mind and hand o' er raw American mat-
ter. Still, Nevada and Calirorna, with towns and
^itie» of two to fifteen years' gro'/th, yet tD-day all
/ill-armed in the elements of civilizai 'on, wanton
with the Inxi'.ries of the senses, rich in the social
.menities. supplied with churches and schools and
•ibraries, fven affecting high art, arew nrlcrrul illus-
trations of the /apidity and ear.e with which our
people organize societ} and State, and surround
themsi-Ves with all the comforts an<I Uixuries of
metropolitan life. The history of the world else-
where offers no parallels to these.

At prese'it, and in comparison with the flush
times of their first creative }ears, the States and
towns of the Pacific Coast are but slow'y grow-

162

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

' pt':

ing, and business is dull. Many mining towns are
indeed falling back, if not approaching desertion.
Founded on temporary interests,— the sands ot' their
streams all washed out, they are deserted for fresher
fields. But new interests, as agriculture and manu-
factures, and new and closer modes of extracting
their mineral wealth will sooner or later restore most
of these ; in some instances are already beginning
to do so. The general comparative dullness is but
a natural and temporary reaction from a hot and
stimulated development. Our great war and its in-
terests have occupied the Nation's life and thought,
and centered it in the East, absorbing its capital
and offering rare opportunities, also, for new indus-
tries and speculations. California, was too far away
to share in this stimulus ; and by rejecting the na-
tional currency that was one of its elements, she
has even denied herself the benefits of its overflow.
But by drouth in her agriculture, by losses in many
of her mining operations, by the cessation of the
heavy tide of emigration, and by the narrow policy
of her bankers and capitalists, she has been gather-
ing valuable lessons of experience ; she has learned
both how to farm and mine ; she has come to appre-
ciate her great wants of capital and labor ; and she
is in fine condition to receive and accept the new
stimulus, that is already drawing out of her own
trials a more economical and intelligent prosperity,
and bringing in a new tide of means and men from
the East. Farmers may be poor; country mer-
chants may be bankrupt ; gambling may he at a low
ebb in the mining towns ; labor comparatively low,

ani

the

ble

sti

at
S
ti
in
C
ai
o

P
r

-_J

riNENT.

ny mining towns are
proaching desertion.
3, — the sands of their
e deserted for fresher
jriculture and manu-
modes of extracting

or later restore most
•e already beginning
ative dullness is but
:ion from a hot and
great war and its in-
)n's life and thought,
.bsorbing its capital

also, for new indus-
nia.was too far away
by rejecting the na-
of its elements, she
lefits of its overflow,
e, by losses in many
the cessation of the
)y the narrow policy
she has been gather-
ice ; she has learned
e has come to appre-

and labor; and she
and accept the new
ing out of her own
itelligent prosperity,
leans and men from
poor; country mer-
ging may ])e at a low
- comparatively low,

THE NEVADA SIDE OF THE SIERRAS. 163

and pan washings unremunerative ; San Francisco
brokers and bankers may, as is charged, have sucked
the life out of the interior ;— here, indeed, may rents
be falling and houses unoccupied : but the real in-
dustries of the Pacific Coast were never more pro-
ductive and promising than now,— never so miich,
in any previous year, of hay and grain ; of vegeta-
bles and fruit, of gold and silver brought out of the
ground, as is and will be in this year of 1865. This
is the test and promise of prosperity ; and this year
will date a renewal of life and growth to California
and its adjacent States,— not so hot and feverish
and rabid as that of '49 and '50 and '59 and '60, but
strong enough to satisfy a just ar bition, and sure
enough to encourage permanent investments and
permanent citizenship,— the real foundations and
security of a State.

But to go back on the record of our journey:
Our last day in Nevada was passed among its pleas-
antest and richest valleys, under the shadows of the
Sierra Nevada mountains, and rejoicing in the fer-
tilizing streams from their springs and snows. Here,
in the valleys of the Truckee, the Washoe, and the
Carson, is the garden of the State ; here were a few
agricultural settlers, fifteen and twenty years ago,
colonists from Utah, to which all this region was
originally attached. Now, the Mormons are dis-
placed by a more vigorous and varied populatioi^
prosperous with farming, with lumbering among the
rich pines of the Sierras, and with quartz mills, seek-
ing proximity here to wood and water, ^nd fed by
the mines over the hills in Virginia and Gold HilL

i'V'j

... /

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

Skirting .the hill-sides from Virginia at early
morning, on a capital toll road, that runs from
mountain to mountain on a common level, we
breakfasted at Steamboat Springs, where the phe-
nomenon of an immense natural tea-kettle is in op-
eration. For a mile or more along a little stream,
underneath a thin crust of earth, water immeasura-
ble is seething and boiling, and occasionally break-
ing through in columns of stejim and in bubbling
spouts and streams,— too hot to bear the hand in ;
— the waste drawn off to a neighboring bath-house
. where chronic rheumatisms and blood a|ections arc;
successfully treated, or tempering the cool river be-
low. The boiling springs are flavored with sulphur
and soda, and are similar to the more celebrated
Geysers in California. In the winter the vapor fills
the valley, and from this and the rumbling, bubbling
noise of the seething waters, comes the name of
Steamboat Springs. Down the valleys we drove
to Washoe Village and Lake,— here speeches and
lunch, — and then farther on to Carson City, the
capital of the young State, where the inevitable
brass band, a militia company of twelvr privates,
"and nary two alike," more speeches and a dinner
from Governor Blaisdell were the programme.

Here we confronted the long-looked-for, the even
long-seen Sierra Nevadas, the Andes of North
America, the distinctive range of our Pacific States,
fountain of their streams, source and bearer of their
mineral wealth, chief element and parent of tboir
beauty of landscape, and replenisher of their f^r-
tilitv of soil. To us, too, long on the desert plaiA

.J.

:iNENT.

J Virginia at early
•ad, that runs from

common level, we
ngs, where the phe-
.1 tea-kettle is in op-
long a little stream,
h, water immeasura-

occasionally break-
}m and in bubbling
o bear the hand in ;
;hboring bath-house

blood al^ections arc;
ig the cool river be-
avored with sulphur
he more celebrated
irinter the vapor fills
rumbling, bubbling
:omes the name of
e valley, we drove
-here speeches and
J Carson City, the
lere the inevitable
of twelvf privates,
eches and a dinner
le programme,
looked-for, the even

Andes of North
f our Pacific States,
and bearer of their
nd parent of tboir
lisher of their f;r-
)n the desert plaiA

THE RIDE OVER THE SIERRAS.

i6s

and the barren mountain,— sad-eyed with weeks
away from forests and sparkling waters, and the
verdure of grass and vines and flowers, — they of-
fered indeed the golden pathway to the Golden
Gate of the Pacific.

The ride over the mountains, down their western
valleys, on to the ocean, was a succession of de-
lights and sv.rprises. The surging and souring of
the wind among the tall pines of the Sierras came
like sweetest music, laden with memories of home
and friends and youth. Brass bands begone, operas
avaunt ! in such presence as we found ourselves on
the mouBtain top of a moonlight night, by the banks
of Lake T&hoe, among forests to which the largest
of New England are but pigmies, lying and lir^tening
by the water to the coming of the Pacific breeze
and its delicate play upon the high tree-tops. All
human music was but sound and fury signifying
nothing, bcfpre such harmonies of high nature.
The pines of these mountains arc indeed mon-
sters,— three, four, five feet through, and running
up to heaven for light, straight and clear as an
arrow by the hundred feet,— suggestive forerunners
oU/w "big trees" of Calaveras ar.d Mariposa, that
we are yet to see. Fich green-yellow mosses cling
to many a trunk ; and firs and balsams fill up the
vacant spots between the kingly pines ; while laugh-
ing waters sport lustily before our unaccustomed
eyes, among the rocks in the deep ravines, along
and far below the road on which our horses gallop
up hill and down at a fearfu' pace.

The initial trip of a little steamer upon Lake

i66

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

Tahoe (formerly Lake Biglcr) was amorg the nov-
eltics of our mountain experience. This is one of
the beautiful lakes of the world, richly ranking with
those of Scotland and Swiss-Italy, and destined to
arouse as wide enthusiasm. It is located up among
the mountains, itself six thousand five hundred feet
high, overlooked by snow-capped peaks, bordered
by luscious forests ; stretches wide for eight to four-
teen miles in extent, with waters clear and rare al-
most as air,— so rare, indeed, that not even a sheet
of paper can float, but quickly sinks, and swimming
is nearly impossible ; and abounds in trout :--where,
indeed, are more elements of lake beauty, and at-
traction ? Already, though far from heavy popula-
tions, it has its mountain and lake hotel, and draws
many summer visitors from California and Nevada.
From Lake Tahoe to Placerville, the first consid-
erable town in California, is seventy-five miles of
well-graded road, up to the mountain summits, a:,d
down on the western side ; and the drive over it,
made in less than seven hours, even surpassed any
that had gone before in rapidity and brilliancy of
execution. With six horses, fresh and fast, we
swept up the hill at a trot, and rolled down again
at their sharpest gallop, turning abrupt corners
without a pull-up, twisting among and by the loaded
teams of freight toiling over into Nevada, and run-
ning along the edge of high precipices, all as deftly
as the skater flies or the steam car runs ; though
for many a moment we held our fainting breath at
what seemed great risks or dare-devil performances.
The road is excellent, hard and macadamized, con-

ENT.

s among the nov-
l:. This is one of
ichly ranking with
yr, and destined to
located up among
I five hundred feet
1 peaks, bordered
ie for eight to four-
clear and rare al-
t not even a sheet
iks, and swimming
3 in trout : — where,
kc beauty, and at-
rom heavy popula-
e hotel, and draws
"ornia and Nevada,
le, the first consid-
renty-five miles of
itain summits, a:,d
the drive over it,
iven surpassed any
yr and brilliancy of
resh and fast, we
rolled down again
ig abrupt corners
; and by the loaded
D Nevada, and run-
cipices, all as deftly
I car runs; though
r fainting breath at
devil performances,
macadamized, con-

THE SCENERY OF THE SIERRA.S.

167

structed by private enterprise and imposing heavy
tolls, and tlicrefore far diftc-rent from that, whose
rough remains and steep passages are occasionally
met on the mountain side, over which Mr. Greeley
made his famous ride six years ago.

lUit there is no stage-riding, no stage-driving, left
in the States, — I doubt if there ever was any, — at
all comparable to this in perfection of discipline, in
celerity and comfort, and in manipulation of the
reins. Mr. Colfax well said, in one of his speeches,
that as it was said to require more talent to cross
j^roadway than to be a justice of the peace in the
country, so he was sure much more was necessary
to drive a stage down the Sierras as we were driven,
than to be a member of Congress. For a week,
at least, we worshiped our knights of the whip.
Think, too, of a stage-road one hundred miles long,
from Carson to Placerville, watered as city streets
are watered, to lay the dust for the traveler ! Yet
this luxury is performed through nearly the entire
route, day by day, all the summer season.

All over the Sierras in our road, the scenery is
full of various beauty ; some of its features I have
mentioned ; but another chief one was the high
walls of rock, rising abruptly and perpendicularly
from the valley for many hundreds of feet. Many
a rich boulder, anon a hill, and a frequent mountain
peak of pure rock, thousands of feet high, like pyr-
amids of Egypt, are seen along the passage. The
. whole scenery of the Sierras is more like that of
the Alps than any other in America, and has even
features of surpassing attraction.

i
I

i;i

i68

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

At riaccrville, among vineyards and orchards
and flower ^^ardens, a night; three speeches from
Speaker Colfax, and a grand midnight dinner ; — at
Sacramento, sixty miles hence by a railroad, which
is seeking the mountains, — a superb breakfast and
two speeches and more roses, — and thence by
steamboat, large and elegant as the best of Sound
and North River boats, and all built in San Fran-
cisco, through wide grain fields, yellow with harvest
and sun, we came to refreshing halt in the luxurious
halls of the Occidental Hotel, of famous Leland
creation and supervision, late on the last Saturday
night.

My memory is crowded with observations in Cal-
ifornia and Nevada, yet to be compacted for your
reading ; but the journey cann'^' wait now for them.
My steps move faster than m^ -n. Next Mon-
day,— after a crowded ^-cek ot ght-seeing and
hospitality in San Francisco and vicinity,— we re-
trace our steps as far as the mountains on a more
northern route, and thence into the most interesting
gold-quartz mining region, and on along the valleys
on the eastern slope of the Sierras north to Oregon,
and back, through British Columbia, and by the
ocean, the first of August.

:INENT.

wmmmmmmm

yards and orchards
three speeches from
lidnight dinner ; — at
by a raihoad, which
iupcrb breakfast and
es, — and thence by
IS the best of Sound
II built in San Fran-
i, yellow with harvest
; halt in the luxurious
1, of famous Leland
on the last Saturday

observations in Cal-
compacted for your
r ■: wait now for them.
a) : n. Next Mon-
ot «;ht-seeing and
and vicinity, — we re-
mountains on a more
3 the most interesting
i on along the valleys
rras north to Oregon,
olumbia, and by the

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23 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, N.Y, 14580

(716) 872-4503

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CIHM/ICMH

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CIHIVI/ICMH
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Canadian institute for Historical Microreproductlons / Institut Canadian de microreproductions historlques

LETTER XVir.

OVERLAND TO OREGON.

Portland, Oregon, July 20.

I WAS prepared for California. But Oregon is
more of a revelation. It has rarer natural beauties,
richer resources, a larger development, and a more
promising future than I had learned of The dazzle
of gold and silver has made California more con-
spicuous in eastern eyes. Our visit here has there-
fore had the alwa- t. delicious element of unexpected-
ness in its pleasures. There was some rebellious
flesh among us, when we were told that to see Ore-
gon we must take another week of day and night
stage riding ; much of it on rough mountain roads,
and in a "mud wagon" at that. We thought to
have been through with that sort of travel. But
no week's riding has given us greater or richer va-
riety of experience; more beauty of landscape;
more revelation of knowledge ; more pleasure and
less pain, than this one up through northern Cali-
fornia and middle Oregon, between the coast moun-
tains and the Sierra Nevadas.

Our point of departure was Sacramento, and the
distance to Portland from there is six hundred and

■

,70 ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

fifty miles, due north. Two short bits of railroad
put us forward in the Sacramento valley about fifty
miles; at OroviUe we began the stage nde proper
up still for another one hundred miles in the broad
and generally rich and beautiful valley of the Sac-
ramento and its tributaries.-sometimes lollmg m
waves of earth, then flat and wide as flattest and
widest of Illinois prairies, often treeless and unculti-
vated, though not uncultivatable ; and agaui charm-
ing with old oak groves, and fruitful with gram fields
and orchards, that yield an increase unknown m all
eastern or western valleys. At Chico, we took sup-
per with General Bidwell, one of the pioneers of
the Pacific Coast, and one of the new members of
Congress from California. Jilted by a young wo-
man who chose a lover with more acres, he turned
rover, and came out here from Missouri as early as
1 841 as one of a secret filibustering party, that in-
tended to get up a revolution against Mexico, then
~ the parent of this region, and join California to the
then lone star republic of Texas. The scheme was
fruitless, but General Bidwell became the owner of
one of the famous Spanish grants of land m the
richest part of this valley, and now has a farm o.
twenty thousand of its acres, of which one thou-
sand eight hundred are under cultivation. His crop
of wheat, in 1863, was thirty-six thousand bushels,
from nine hundred acres of land, or at tae average
rate of forty bushels to the acre. This is a poorer
grain year, and his wheat will average but thirty
bushels per acre. The general average of the val-
ley is twenty-five bushels. Of barley and oats, h.s

NENT.

ort bits of railroad
to valley about fifty
c stage ride proper,
I miles in the broad
il valley of the Sac-
lometimes lulling in
wide as flattest and
treeless and unculti-
e ; and again charm-
itful with grain fields
rease unknown in all
t Chico, we took sup-
; of the pioneers of
the new members of
Ited by a young wo-
nore acres, he turned
I Missouri as early as
jtering party, that in-
against Mexico, then
join California to the
:as. The scheme was
became the owner of
grants of land in the
id now has a farm oi
s, of which one thou-
cultivation. His crop
-six thousand bushels,
and, or at the average
icre. This is a poorer
nil average but thirty
ral average of the val-
Of barley and oats, hiS

JOHN brown's family.

171

other principal crops, he usually harvests fifty bush-
els to the acre. His garden and orchard cover one
hundred acres. A large flouring mill is among his
concerns, and its product is the favorite brand of
the State. Add to these illustrative facts of his
wealth, and of the beauty and productiveness of
the country, that General Bidwell still seems a
young man, is fresh and handsome and of winning
manners, — a bachelor, and intends to keep house
in Washington during his congressional term, and
do I not equally interest farmers, statisticians and
the ladies of our capital's society?

On through a like productive country, crossing
streams whose banks are lined with an almost trop-
ical growth of trees and vines, along roads bordered
with fences and trees, by farms and orchards rich
in grains and fruits, we make our first night ride,
passing in the gray morning the prosperous little
town of Red Blufls, which is noteworthy as the
head of navigation on the Sacramento River, — some
three hundred miles from its mouth, — and so a cen-
tral point of commerce for all northern California
and southern Oregon, and as the present home of
the widow and daughters of the immortal John
Brown, They straggled in here, weary and poor,
from their overland journey, but found most hospit-
able greeting from the citizens and have secured a
permanent home. A subscription among the Cali-
fornians generally will give them soon a nice cot-
tage ; Mrs. Brown earns both love and support as
a successful nurse and doctor, particularly for chil-
dren ; her two older daughters are teachers in the

^•i

,72 ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

public schools; and the younger one is herself a

^"now the valley grows narrow, the mountains east
and west chassez across and in among each other,
and for the remaining two hundred miles of Cali-
fornia, and the first two hundred of Oregon, we
are winding among the hills and foUowmg up and
down narrow valleys, first of tributaries of the
Sacramento, and then of minor though earnest
streams,-Trinity, Klamath, Rogue and Umpqua,-
that steal their way, among the now scattered and
m:nding ranges of coast and Sierra Nevada, west

to the ocean. . .

Shasta a'nd Yreka are the two remainmg villages
of importance in California, with perhaps fifteen
hundred inhabitants each. Born of rich p acer gold
diggings in neighboring valleys and gulches, but
bereft of half of their former population by the
discovery of more tem; :ing fields elsewhere, and
the inherent migratory character of gold seekers
they present a sad array of unoccupied stores and
houses, like, indeed, to nearly every other of the m-
terior mining towns of California. Their second
reactionary stage now seems beginning..however ;
a more careful and intelligent working of the gold
sands and banks proves them still profitable.-m
some cases richly so; the Chinese are coming m
to work over the neglected courses, satisfied with
smaller returns than the whites; and best of all.
agriculture, hitherto despised, is asserting its legiti-
mate place as the base of all true and steady pros-
perity The valleys, chough small, are frmtful, and

ern

INENT.

;er one is herself a

, the mountains east
I among each other,
idred miles of Cali-
Ired of Oregon, we
id following up and
tributaries of the
nor though earnest
igue and Umpqua, —
e now scattered and
Sierra Nevada, west

vo remaining villages
with perhaps fifteen
irn of rich placer gold
;ys and gulches, but
r population by the
fields elsewhere, and
cter of gold seekers,
noccupied stores and
every other of the in-
ibrnia. Their second
. beginning,«'however;
t working of the gold
m still profitable,— in
:hinese are coming in
courses, satisfied with
lites; and best of all,
., is asserting its legiti-
true and steady pros-
small, are fruitful, and

MOUNT SHASTA. 1 73

many of the hill-sides are equally rich for grain and
fruit. These hills of northern California and south-
ern Oregon seem, indeed, the true home of apple,
pear and grape, and are sure to have a large place
in the future fruit-growing and wine-making pros-
perity of the Pacific Coast.

Beyond Shasta, just out of the valley, we stopped
to dine at a most inviting hotel, amid garden and
orchard of great fruitfulness, which I found to be
" The Tower House," and the proprietor Mr. Levi
H. Tower, whom you Springfield people of fifteen
and twenty years' residence will i-emember as a
prominent armorer, foreman of the Eagle Engine
Company, and a popular young man, up to 1849,
when he cast in his fortunes with the first emi-
gration to California. After years of the ups and
downs that belong to nearly every experience oa
this Coast, he has become prosperous, and grown
stout, but keeps his Springfield memories green,
and is yet a bachelor. Two of his sisters and a
brother-in-law live upon his place. He owns a toll-
road over the mountain, and his orchard, only five
years old, produced last year three thousand bushels
of peaches, one thousand five hundred bushels of
apples, and grapes by the ton, for which he finds
market among the miners in the mountains around,
and in the villages north and south.

Along here, individual mountains assumed a rare .
majesty ; snow peaks were visible, ten thousand and
eleven thousand feet high ; and soon, too, Mcmnt
Shasta, monarch of the Sierras in northern Cali-
fornia, reared its lofty crown of white, conspicuous

174

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

amonK hills of five thousand and six thousand feet,
both for its vast fields of snow, its perfect shape,
a d its hight of fourteen thousand four hundred
feet above the sea iovel. Wc saw it from various
points nnd all sides, and everywhere it was truly a
King of the Mountains, and is entitled to rank
among the first dozen mountain peaks of the world.
Jacksonville was the first conspicuous town in
Oregon, and showed obvious first-cousinship to
Yr^ka and Shasta, But its neighboring gold dig-
eings made better report; many of the five hund-
red men engaged upon them in the county were
very prosperous, and all were making good wages;
promising quartz mines were also discovered ; and
we found, everywhere almost in the.c mountam
counties of northern California and southern O e-
goa, gathering evidences of much gold yet un-
crushed or undug. that would still form the basi .
with cheaper and more abundant labor and capital,
of a large population and a new material growth
for this region. The northern county of Cahforma
(Siskiyou) counts no fewer than two thousand Chi-
nese among its r^..^^ion. and of these, eleven
hundred are engaged in gold digS^'^g; ^^^^J^^.^^
as foreigners the State gathers a tax of four dollars
Tmon^h each, or from fifty thousand to sixty thou-
sand dollars a year. That they pay this enormous
r'ute and stUl keep at w.. shows well enough
that it pays them to wash aad re-wash the golden

sands of these valleys. ,•!.»„

The scenery of this region is full of various beauty
Of conspicuous single objects. Pilot Knob, a great

THE TREES AND THE MISTLETOE.

175

riNENT.

id six thousand feet,
w, its perfect shape,
.usand four hundred
i saw it from various
yrwhere it was truly a
. is entitled to rank
in peaks of the world,
conspicuous town in
IS first-cousinship to
neighboring gold dig-
any of the five hund-
a in the county were
! making good wages ;
; also discovered ; and
ist in the^c mountain
nia and southern O.-e-
( much gold yet un-
!d still form the basis,
idant labor and capital,
I new material growth
rn county of California
;han two thousand Chi-
, and of these, eleven
)ld digging, from whom
lers a tax of four dollars
thousand to sixty thou-
they pay this enormous
r.. shows well enough
aad re-wash the golden

1 is full of various beauty,
ects, Pilot Knob, a great

chunk of bare rock standing on a mountain top,
ranks next to Mount Shasta; it must be eight
hundred to one thousand feet high in itself, and
seen from all quarters, it has been famous as a pilot
to the early emigrants in their journey across the
mountains. The hills are rich with pine forests,
and these grow thicker -anu the trees larger and of
greater variety, as also the valleys widen and seem
more fertile, as the road progresses into Oregon.
Firs rival the pines and grow to similar size, one
hundred and two hundred feet high and three to
Ive feet in diameter. Farther up in Oregon, about
the Columbia River, the fir even dominates, and is
the chief timber, and specimens of it are recorded
that are twelve feet through and three hundred feet
high ! The oak, too, has its victories in the valley.'/,
and we nde through groves and parks of it that are
indescribably beautiful. That fascinating parasite
of British classics, the mistletoe, appears also, and
shrouds the branches of the oak with its rich, ten-
der green, and feeds on its rugged life. Many an
oak had succumbed to the greedy bunch boughs of
the mistletoe, that fastened themselves upon it, and
despite its beauty and the sentimental reputation it
brings to us from British poets, I came to shrink
from its touch and sight. More graceful and invit-
ing and less absorbing of life, — rather token of
death, — was the pendant Spanish moss, hanging
gray and sere and sad from the pine branches and
trunks, along our way in southern Oregon.

The birch, the ash, the spruce, the arbor vitae,
and the balsam, all contribute to these forests.

f';'

176

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

But they do not rob your Connecticut valley of its
precious elms ; to their individual beauty no tree
here c'an offer successful rivalry. In aggregates,
however, for forests of trees, for size alid beauty of
pines and spruces and firs, for amount and quality
of timber as timber, and for groves of oaks, there
can be no competition in the East to the Sierra
Nevadas and the Coast Mountains and their inter-
mediate valleys in California and Oregon. They
become the perpetual wonder and admiration and
■ enthusiasm of the traveler.

The cross valleys of the Rogue and Umpqua
rivers present many rich fields for culture. The
soil is a gravelly loam, warm and fertile, and more
favorable for fruits, especially the grape and the
peach, than the more northern valleys of Oregon.
But the way to market is long and hard ; and the
products of agriculture here must mainly go out to
the world on the hoof or in wool. So that the
temptation to the farmer is not yet very strong.
Yet we found a few rich farms and prosperous gen-
tleman farmers. "Joe" Lane, famous iu Oregon
politics, lives in one of these valleys; his occupa-
tion of public life is gone ; he fell out with a por-
tion of his own party, and was put out by the up-
rising volume of loyal and anti-slr.very sentiment,
wherein he has never shown any sympathy. He
was an able but low, coarse and groveling politi-
cian. . .

A man of mother description and history is Mr.
Jesse Applegate, whose fame as an. old pioneer,
an honest, intelligent gentleman, incorruptible in

thought

increasii

and we i

to see h

We did

vigorous

years, ])2

of the C(

right po

original

upon ou

wisest ; (

dcr to fi

where, ai

conspicu

surely ' o

the gene

not so ir

politician

another

does not

to the wa

his farm ^

he says, i

dear, and

so distant

vation ani

urally, ab

unbroken

and so m

feed upon

proved as

8»

■ut valley of its
beauty no tree
In aggregates,
i aTid beauty of
unt and quality
5 of oaks, there
,t to the Sierra
and their inter-
Oregon. They
admiration and

c and Umpqua
r culture. The
ertile, and more

grape and the
lleys of Oregon,
d hard ; and the
mainly go out to
ol. So that the
yet very strong.

prosperous gen-
mous iu Oregon
2ys; his occupa-
1 out with a por-
it out by the up-
?.very sentiment,

sympathy. He

groveling politi-

nd history is Mr.

an. old pioneer,

, incorruptible in

JE.SSE APPLEfiATE, A PIONEER.

thought and act, and the maker of good cider, kept
increasing as we neared his home in the Umpqua;
and we made bold to stop and tell him we had come
to sec him and eat our breakfast out of his larder.
We did all to our supreme satisfaction, finding a
vigorous old man, who had been here twenty-five
years, participated largely in the growth and history
of the country, and the conversion of its people to
right political principles; clear and strong and
original in thought and its expression, with views
upon our public affairs worthy the heed of our
wisest ; every way, indeed, such a man as you won-
der to find here in the woods, rejoice to find any-
where, and hunger to have in his rightful position,
conspicuous in the government. Oregon ought
surely ' :, send Jesse Applegate to Washington, and
the general testimony is that she would, were he
not so implacably hostile to all the helping arts of
politician and place-seeker, which is of course only
another reason why she should do what she yet
does not. Mr. Applegate has sent his three sons
to the war, and remains in their place to carry on
his farm of two thousand acres. But farming here,
he says, is but a cheap, careless process ; labor is so
dear, and grain grows so easily, and the market is
so distant, that there is no incentive for real culti-
vation and care, in the business. Grass grows nat-
urally, abundantly ; timothy seed thrown upon the
unbroken soil, gives the best of permanent mowing;
and so mild are the winters, and so abundant the
feed upon hill and plain, that even that is only im-
proved as a precaution against exceptional snow.
8*

178

ACROSS THE COIiTl^i.N^.

ThouL^h he feeds cattle by the hundreds and thou-
hrh.s now one hundred and twenty-hve
rsVhaythathec.^

'%'::Xsrd tnight of rough riding from Jack-
soni oL rather'unmilitary roads, bui t some
tear ' o by the since famous General Hooker,
years ago oy u june-like afternoon,

rr LllUha ov^^^ Head of the Wil-

re\teViW^^^^^^^^^ valley. «- t^-j;;^
ranges cease their mazy dancmg together, and akc
their places cast and west, feeding a river that runs
'^iclway north one hundred and twenty-five mde o
the Columbia River, and watermg a valley ^1. - gh
that length and for fifty miles wide. Fhis is the
Willamette River and valley,-the garden of Or -
gon,-itself Oregon; that which led emigrants
here years before the gold discoveries on the I a-
cific Coast; the holder of nearly two-thirds o ah
the inhabitants of the State ; the chief source of its
present strength and prosperity, and its sure secu-
rity for the future ; lifting it above the uncertainties
of mining, and giving guaranty of stabihty. intelli-
eence and comfort to its people.

We were led down into this indeed paradisiacal
valley through richest groves of oak ; the same are
scattered along the foot hills on either side, or peo-
ple the swelling hills that occasionally vary the
prairie surfdce of its central lines; while the river
suong and free and navigable through the who
valley a part of the year, and through the .ow.
half at all times, furnishes a deep belt of forest

thrniif
held I
never
practi(
surfaci
stinctJ
upon 1
clayey
ing mi
small {
pics a
the in
chards
three
also, a
agricu
and v;
exhau!
spring
nights
a limit
ripen
pears,
perfcci
ley is
often (
The
thousa
tenth (
not oy
can b<
an aci

-.^s-agj

THE WILLAMETTE VALLEY.

;NT.

nclrcds and thou-

and twonty-tWc

igo, but lor which

riding from Jack-
roads, built some
General Hooker,
nc-like afternoon,
head of the Wil-
lerc the mountain
together, and take
g a river that runs
wenty-five miles to
ig a valley through
wide. This is the
:he garden of Ore-
ich led emigrants
overies on the Pa-
ly two-thirds of all
e chief source of its
', and its sure secu-
ve the uncertainties
- of stability, intelli-

indeed paradisiacal
f oak ; the same are
1 either side, or peo-
ccasionally vary the
nes ; while the river,
e through the whole
i through the, lower

deep belt of forest

179

through the very middle of the valley. Never be-
held I more foscinating theater for rural homes;
never seemed more fitly united natural beauty and
practical comforts; fertility of soil and variety of
surface and production ; never were my bucolic in-
stincts more deeply stirred than in this first outlook
upon the Willamette valley. The soil is a strong,
clayey, vegetable loam, on a hardpan bottom, hold-
ing manures firmly, and yielding large crops of the
small grains, apples and potatoes. Wheat and ap-
ples are the two great crops at present ; much of
the improved land being set out with apple or-
chards, that come into full bearing in from two to
three years after planting. Wool and beef are,
also, as in the lower valleys, leading items in the
agricultural wealth of the Willamette. The hills
and valleys of interior Oregon furnish almost in-
exhaustible and continuous pasture grounds. The
spring is too cold and wet for peaches ; the summer
nights are too cold for corn, though it is grown to
a limited degree ; but Isabella and Catawba grapes
ripen perfectly ; it is the home of the cherry ; and
pears, plums and all the small berries reach high
perfection. .The average yield of wheat in the val-
ley is twenty-five bushels to the acre ; but fifty is
often obtained with careful cultivation.

Though this valley supports a population of fifty
thousand by agriculture only, probably not one-
tenth of its area has yet felt the plow, and certainly
not over one-half is under fence. Its best lands
can be bought for from five to twenty-five dollars
an acre, depending upon improvements, and near-

1 80 ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

ness to villages and river. Only specially 'favoied
farms go higher, as some do to fifty and even one
hundred dollars an acre. Much of the farmnig is
un-'isely done; the farms are generally too large,
the original locations being mostly of six hundred
and forty acres each ; and the agricultural popula-
tion are largely Missourians, Kentuckians and Ten-
nesseeans, of that class who are forever moving
farther west, and only stop here because there is
no beyond but the ocean. The eastern men proper
in Oregon, of whom there are indeed many, are
mostly in the villages and towns, leaders in trade,
and commerce, and manufactures, as well as m the

professions.

The agriculture of Oregon knows no such draw-
back and doubt as the long summer drouths, that
hang over that of all the rest of the country west
of the Rocky Mountains, and render expensive
irrigation a necessity to certainty in culture. Her
fertile region,-so made fertile, indeed,-between
the Coast Mountains and the Sierras, or the Cas-
cades, as the interior range of mountains is called
in Oregon, is abundantly supplied with ram the
year round. There is enough in summer to ripen
the crops, and not too much to interfere with har-
vesting; and the winter is one long shower oi
six months. The Californians call their northern
neighbors the Web Feet ; and from all account there
is something too much of rain and mud during the
winter season; but the fertility and perfection
which its agriculture enjoys in consequence leave
the practical side of the joke with the Oregonians.

Tli

There
wcsteri
dormar
and wa
activel)
able, w
durable
summe
single
averagt
the six
enty, ai
f^rty-fiA
the so-(
Euge
City an
tion in
we pass
lem is t
thriving
receptic
editor
Bush, \i
large pc
on the
failing t
now hin
possess!
newspaj
migratic
ford or;
into jus

lecially'favoied
and even one
the farming is
rally too large,
of six hundred
;ultural popula-
kians and Ten-
■orever moving
ecause there is
ern men proper
ieed many, are
;aders in trade,
IS well as in the

s no such draw-
er drouths, that
he country west
:nder expensive
n culture. Her
ideed, — between
ras, or the Cas-
untains is called

I with rain the
summer to ripen
terfere with har-
long shower oi

II their northern
all account there
I mud during the
■ and perfection
jnsequence leave
I the Oregonians.

THE TOWNS OF THE WILLAMETTE VALLEY. l8l

There no snow in the valleys of middle and
western Oregon; only rain and mist deaden the
dormant season ; but February is usually a clear
and warm month, and the work of the farmer then
actively begins. The summers are long and favor-
able, with warm days but cool nights,— more en-
durable for the human system than New England
summers, and kinder for all vegetation, with the
single exception, perhaps, of Indian corn. The
average temperature of the Willamette valley for
the six summer months is from sixty-five to sev-
enty, and of the six winter months from forty to
f?rty-five degrees. And grass grows through all
the so-called winter.

Eugene City, Corvallis, Albany, Salem, Oregon
City and Portland are the chief centers of popula-
tion in the Willamette valley, in the order in which
we passed them, coming down to the Columbia. Sa-
lem is the State capital, and is a beautifully located,
thriving, inland town. Here our party had a state
reception ; here I met our old democratic brother
editor of Westfield, Massachusetts, Mr. Asahel
Bush, who has made a fortune here, and wielded
large power in the politics of the State, dethroning
on the Douglas breach Joe Lane as senator, but
failing to keep progressing in the right direction, is
now himself dethroned by the Union and republican
possession of the State, and is in retirement from
newspaper and business, and meditating eastern
migration ; here, too, Mr. Reuben Boies, of Bland-
ford origin and Chicopee residence, has grown
into just distinction, and is one of the supreme

,82 ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

jadges of the State, but has his present residence
in a beautif.^1 farm in one of the neighboring foo -
hills, where also he has erected and put in success-
fu :peration a woolen mill;-and from here also,
we t 'ok steamboat passage, fifty miles, to this town
the commercial and business center of the State,
half rival to San Francisco itself, and the only other
town Indeed, of prominence on the Pacific Coast,
hit Ihows signs of steady uninterrupted prosper-
ity at this moment. At Oregon City, on our way
hither, we paid respect to the original capital of
the Territory, inspected a new and extensive woolen
mm that cos' seventy-five thousand dollars in gold.
Tnd were railroaded around the falls ot the Willam-
ette, which, though not a brilliant feature in the
natural scene, offer temptations ^"^ ^^most inex-
haustible water-power for the manufactures that
the agric^^^^^^^^ productions of the State invite and
the enterprise of its citizens is already wisely and
eafferlv reaching forward to.
To [land by far the largest town of Oregon,
stands sweetly on the banks of the Willamette,
twelve miles before it joins the Columbia River
and one hundred and twenty miles from where the
clmbia meets the Pacific Ocean. ShiPS -d oce^
. steamers of highest class come readily ^^ther ^om
it spreads out a wide navigation by steamboat of
the Columbia and its branches, below and above
here centers a large and increasing trade, not only
for the Willamette valley, but for the mining regions
of eastern Oregon and ^aho. Washington Territory
on the north, and parts even of British Columbia

IT.

esent residence
eighboring foot-

1 put in success-
from here, also,
les, to this town,
:er of the State,
nd the only other
\e Pacific Coast,
rrupted prosper-
City, on our way
iginal capital of
extensive woolen
td dollars in gold,
[Is ot the Willam-
nt feature in the
and almost inex-
lanufactures that

2 State invite, and .
ilready wisely and

town of Oregon,
F the Willamette,
; Columbia River,
les from where the
1. Ships and ocean
jadily hither ; from
ti by steamboat of

below and above;
ing trade, not only

the mining regions
ashington Territory
f British Columbia.

PORTLAND AND ITS PEOPLE.

183

Even Salt Lake, too, has taken groceries and dry
goods through this channel, and may yet find it ad-
vantageous to buy more and continuously ; such are
the attained and attainable water communications
through the far-extending Columbia.

The population of Portland is about seven thou-
sand ; they keep Sunday as we do in New England,
and as no other population this side of the Mis-
souri now does ; and real estate, as you may infer,
is quite high, — four hundred dollars a front foot for
best lots one hundred feet deep on the main busi-
ness street, without the buildings. In religion, the
Methodists have the lead, and control an academic
school in town and a professed State university at
Salem ; the Presbyterians are next with a beautiful
church and the most fashionable congregation, and
favor a struggling university under Rev. S. H.
Marsh, (son of President Marsh of the Vermont
university,) located twenty miles off in the valley ;
perhaps the Catholics rank third, with a large Sis-
ters of Charity establishment and school within the
city. Governor Gibbs, the present chief magistrate
of the State, resides here, and though a lawyer, owns
and runs a successful iron foundry that imports its
material from England, though undeveloped iron
mines are thick in neighboring hills; — a single
daily paper has two thousand five hundred circula-
tion, with a weekly edition of three thousand more ;
and altogether Portland has the air and the fact of
a prosperous, energetic town, with a good deal of
eastern leadership and tone to business and society
and morals.

hHi

LETTER XVIII.

THE COLUMBIA RIVER— ITS SCENERY AND ITS
COMMERCE.

Portland, Oregon, July 23.
When an enthusiastic Oregonian told me the
Columbia River was the largest of the Continent,
and watered a wider section of country than any
other, I thought of the St. Lawrence and the Mis-
sissippi, and smiled with mild incredulity. But
unroll your map, and trace its course into the heart
of this north-western interior, through the Cascade
Mountains, back into the great basin between them
and the Rocky Mountains, and then, by its main
branches, stretching up north and winding out
through all British Columbia, and south and west
into Idaho and over into the bowels of the Rocky
Mountains, touching with its fingers all the vast
area north of the great desert basin and west of
the Rocky Mountains ; then sail with me up and
down its mile and a half wide sweep of majestic
volume, at the distance of one hundred and fifty
miles above its mouth ; see what steamboats already
navigate its waters, and the points to which they
reach ; and listen to the wide plans of the naviga-

tors for
in Britis
vitals ol
practica
west at
Oregon,
gether t

Only
correctri
Columb
be anyw
miles in
or four
key to \
interest!
erful ri\
of our <
Pacific
tion anc
of the t

As y(
abroad
scenery
Andean
of all tl
stern hi
conflict
an unus'
striven 1
brace, —
the othe
element

l_-

THE SCENERY OF THE COLUMBIA.

I8S

ERY AND ITS

Oregon, July 23.
1 told me the
the Continent,
intry than any
£ and the Mis-
reduHty. But
J into the heart
gh the Cascade

between them
in, by its main
i winding out
south and west
s of the Rocky
;rs all the vast
in and west of
rith me up and
eep of majestic
ndred and fifty
imboats already

to which they
i of the naviga-

tors for the use of its most distant upper waters,
in British Columbia and Idaho, — sapping the very
vitals of British dominion in the North-west, and
practically tapping the Pacific railroad as it comes
west at Salt Lake for the benefit of Portland and
Oregon, — do all this, and we will make our bow to-
gether to the Oregonians and their great river.

Only more full surveys can determine the literal
correctness of their claims to superior vastness ; the
Columbia, with its chief division, the Snake, m3.y
be anywhere from twelve hundred to two thousand
miles in length ; — but that it ranks among the three
or four great rivers of the world, and that it is the
key to vast political and commercial questions and
interests, — giving to its line the elements of a pow-
erful rivalry to the great central commercial route
of our Continent, of which San Francisco is the
Pacific terminus, — no one who examines its posi-
tion and extent, and witnesses the various capacity
of the territory it waters, can for a moment doubt.

As yet, however, the Columbia is most known
abroad for the rare beauty and majesty of the
scenery developed by its passage through the great
Andean range of north-western America. Alone
of all the rivers of the West has it broken these
stern barriers, and the theater of the conquering
conflict offers, as might naturally be supposed, many
an unusual feature of nature. River and rock have
striven together, wrestling in close and doubtful em-
brace, — sometimes one gaining ascendancy, again
the other, but finally the subtler and more seductive
element worrying its rival out, and gaining, the

uftt

,86 ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

western sunshine, broken and scarred and fo:;ming
with hot sweat, but proudly victorious, and forcing •
the ^vithdrawing arms of its opponent to hold up
eternal monuments of its trmmph.

To witness these scenes nas been the mam pur-
pose and chief pleasure of a two days' excursion up
the stream from Portland. Starting at early morn-
ing on a steamboat as capacious and comfortable as
the best of those on eastern rivers, and with a com-
pany of the leading citizens of Oregon, we soon
turned out of the Willamette (twelve miles), and
steamed up the broad, deep current of the Colum-
bia Near at hand was Vancouver, a famous spot
in this valley, first as a leading station of the Hud-
son Bay Company for many years, and since and
now as the chief military station of the United
States in the interior North-west. Here many of
our prominent military men have served appren-
ticeship,-Grant, Hooker, McClellan and Ingles
among them. They are all well remembered in
the days of their captaincies here by the old inhab-
itants. Grant was the same quiet, close-mouthed
man then as now, but gave no indication of that
great mastery of himself and of others, that he has
within these few years so nobly, and to such high
purpose, demonstrated. It was while here that he
left the army originally, to come back to it in the
hour of the Nation's need, a new and nobler man.
The present arrkngemeni of the quarters and offices
of the post was made under Colonel Ingles admin-
istration, and is both generous and tasteful. U is
evidently both a favorite and comfortable military

post, an

of the '

Fifty

cd banl

Mounta

ground.

on eith

convuls

the vail

rising i

into th(

rable e'

fast he

farther

of fiive

which

to our

steamc

the ri\

in one

rocl.y

fall. '

cades

throug

run s\

sharpe

assum

saltic

the w£

uprigV

one a

rich I

INT.

rred and forming
•ious, and forcing •
onent to hold up

cen the main pur-
lays' excursion up
ing at early morn-
ind comfortable as
s, and with a com-

Orcgon, we soon
:welve miles), and
ent of the Colum-
ver, a famous spot
tation of the Hud-
irs, and since and
on of the United
it. Here many of
Lve served appven-
llellan and Ingles
ell remembered in
■e by the old inhab-
uiet, close-mouthed
I indication of that

others, that he has
f, and to such high
, while here that he
le back to it in the
;w and nobler man.
! quarters and offices
lonel Ingles' admin-

and tasteful. It is
comfortable military

THE CASCADES AND THE DALLES.

187

post, and continues to be, as it long has been, one
of the "soft placos" in the army on this Coast.

Fifty miles of steaming up through heavily wood-
ed banks brought us to the foot-hills of the Cascade
Mountains, and soon we were upon the charmed
ground. High walls of basaltic rock rose slowly
on either side; huge boulders, thrown off in tl^e
convulsion of water with mountain, lie lower down
the valley, or stand out in the stream,— one so large,
rising in rough egg shape some thousand feet up
into the air, as to become a conspicuous and memo-
rable element in the landscape. The river gets too
fast here, at the Cascades, as they are called, for
farther progress by boat ; we change to a railway
of five miles, along rock and river, at the end of
which we come to navigable waters again, and find,
to our surprise, another large, and equally luxurious
steamer. During these five miles of the Cascades,
the river makes a descent of forty feet, half of it
in one mile, but it takes the form of rough and
rocl.y rapids, and not of one distinct, measurable
fall. The second boat took us from the Upper Cas-
cades to the Dalles, forty-five miles, all the way
through the mountains. The waters narrow and
run swift and harsh ; the rocks grow higher and
sharper ; and their architecture, by fire and water,
assumes noble and massive forms. The dark, ba-
saltic stones lie along in even layers, seamed as in
the walls of human structure ; then they change to
upright form, and run up in well-rounded columns,
one after another, one above another. Otten is
rich similitude to ruined castles of the Rhine;

1*1 r

188

ACROSS THIC CUNTINKNT.

more frequently, fashions and forms, too massive,
too majestic, too unique for human ambuion and
au to aspire to. Where the clear rock retires,
and sloping sides invite, verdure springs strong
and forests, as thick and high as in the valleys, fill

the landscape. .

At the Dalles lies the second town in Oregon,
bearing the name of The Dalles, and holding a
population of twenty-five hundred. It is the en-
trepot ior ^he scattered mines in eastern Oregon, for
we are now on the eastern slopes of the mountains,
aad very much also for the Boise and Owyhee mines
in Idaho. The miners come in here to winter, send
there earnings in here, and buy here many of their
supplies. Two millions dollars in gold dust came
in here from eastern Oregon and Idaho in the sin-
gle month of June last. ,The town is ambitious of
that unnecessary adjunC a mint, and the Oregon
politicians have even wheecUed Congress out of a
preliminary appropriation for one.

The Dalles marks another interruption to the
navigation of the river, and another railway portage
of fifteen miles is in use. The entire water of che
Columbia is compressed for a short distance into
a s;>ace only one hundred and sixty feet wide.
Through this it pours with a rapidity and a depth,
that give majestic, fearful intensity to its motion ;
while interfering rocPs occasionally throw the
stream into rich masses of foam. Through these
second rapids of fifteen mile the rock scenery at
first rises still higher and sharper, and then fast
grows tame; the mountains begin to slink away

FUN ON THE STEAMUOAT.

189

IS, too massive,
n ambidon and
ar rock retires,
springs strong,
1 the valleys, fill

own in Oregon,
, and holding a
I, It is the en-
tern Oregon, for
f the mountains,
d Owyhee mines
e to winter, send
re many of their

gold dust came
Idaho in the sin-
n is ambitious of

and the Oregon
ongress out of a

;erruption to the
;r railway portage
itire water of che
lort distance into
sixty feet wide,
dity and a depth,
ivy to its motion ;
•nally throw the
. Through these
e rock scenery at
)er, and then fast
rin to slink away

and to lose their trees; the familiar barrenness of
the great interior basin reappears ; and the only
beauty of the hills is their richly rounded forms,
often repeated, and their only utility pasturage for
sheep and horses and cattle. The fifteen miles of
railway, which, with the lowc ortage of five miles,
are built as permanently, and served as thoroughly,
with the best of locomotives and cars, as any rail-
oao's in the country, landed us on still another
large and luxurious steamboat, — " and still the won-
der grew," — built far up here beyond the moun-
tains, but with every appointment of comfort and
luxury that are found in the best of eastern river
craft, — large state-rooms, long and wide cabins, va-
rious and well-served meals. From this point (Ce-
lilo), there is uninterrupted navigation, and daily or
tri-weekly steamers running, to Umatilla, eighty-five
miles, Wallula, one hundred and ten miles, and to
White Bluffs, one hundred and sixty miles, farther
up the stream. For six months in the year, boats
can and do run away on to Lewiston, on the Snake
River branch of the Columbia, which is two hun-
dred and seventy miles beyond Celilo, or five hun-
dred miles from the mouth of the Columbia, as
White Bluffs, the head of navigation on the main
river, is four hundred miles from the mouth.

We spent the night on the boat at Celilo, and
during the evening the most of the party went
back by rail to The Dalles for speeches to the peo-
ple from Speaker Colfax and Governor Bross. One
of the best bits of fun on our journey was impro-
vised on their return late in the night. Those who

190

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

had remained on the boat suddenly emerged Irom
their state-rooms, wrapped in the drapery in which
they had laid themselves down to sleep, and pro-
ceeded to give <c)rmal welcome to the entering
party. Mr. Richardson addressed the Speaker in
an amusing travcstie of some familiar points m
his own speeches. Mr. Colfax seized the joke, and
replied a la Richardson with equal effectiveness.
The whole scene and performance was picturesque
and amusing in the highest degree; and the cabin
resounded with boisterous laughter from all sides.

The next morning, we proceeded thirty or forty •
miles still farther up the river, till we had got be-
yond all traces of the collision of the stream with
the mountain, and the scenery grew tame and com-
mon. Then we turned back, having reached a
point two hundred and sixty miles above the mouth
of the river, and retraced our passage through the
mountains, renewing our worship and our wonder
before the strange and beautiful effects produced
by this piercing of these eternal hills by this ma-
jestic river of the West. As a whole, I know no
like scenery so grand, so beautiful. It has much
of the distinguishing elements of the Hudson in
its Palisades, of the Rhine in its embattled, precip-
itous and irregularly shaped sides, and of the Up-
per Mississippi in its overhanging cliffs. Each of
these holds a beauty that is not here ; but the Co-
lumbia aggregates more than any one the elements
of impressiveness, of picturesque majesty, of won-
der-working, powerful nature. I was more enthu-
siastic over each of those rivers; I saw them with

younger a

my intcUc

a general

miles rcp(

different a

unless wi

loved eyes

A distil

ride up th

it, shadov

majesty ai

great snoi

its Mount

south of 1

tains, it t

seen, now

end of ap

the river.

taincd thi

Portland.

perpetuat

to easterr

ive, and i

the moun

ward-goir

mit, oppr

angelic ii

great and

claimed f

thousand

that it 63

sand feet,

IT.

yr emerged Irom
rapcry in which

sleep, and pro-
to the entering

the Speaker in
miliar points in
ed the joke, and
lal effectiveness,
was picturesque
J ; and the cabin
r from all sides.
:d thirty or forty •
\ we had got be-

the stream with
w tame and com-
aving reached a

above the mouth
isage through the

and our wonder

effects produced

hills by this ma-
whole, I know no
ul. It has much
)f the Hudson in
embattled, precip-
!s, and of the Up-
ig cliffs. Each of
here ; but the Co-
r one the elements
» majesty, of won-
[ was more enthu-
; I saw them with

MOUNT HOOD.

191

younger and less weary eyes ; but this convinces
my intellect of its superiority. There is, however,
11 general uniformity in its characteristics ; one five
miles repeats another ; and once seen, you are in-
different as to a second sight,— before next year, or
unless with the accompaniment of new and be-
loved eyes.

A distinguishing feature in the landscape of this
ride up the Columbia,— apart from it, yet bounding
it, shadowing it, yet enkindling it with highest
majesty and beauty,— is Mount Hood. This is the
great snow peak of Oregon, its Shasta, its Rainier,
its Mount Blanc. Lying off twenty or thirty miles
south of the river, in its passage through the moun-
tains, it towers high above all its fellows, and is
seen, now through their gorges, and again at the
end of apparent long plains, leading up to it from
the river. Most magnificent views of it are ob-
tained through nearly all the sail up and down from
Portland. That which Bierstadt has chosen for its
perpetuation on canvas, and which is thus familiar
to eastern eyes, is the most complete and impress-
ive, and is recognized upon 1 steamboat. In it,
the mountain seems to rise, i part, out from an up-
ward-going plain, snow-covered from base to sum-
mit, oppressive in its majesty, beautiful in form,
angelic in its whiteness, — the union of all that is
great and pure and impressive. Various hights are
claimed for Hood, from twelve thousand to eighteen
thousand five hundred feet ; but it is not at all likely
that it exceeds t^yelve thousand or thirteen thou-
sand feet, or less than Shasta in northern California,

193

ACROSS TUli CONTINENT.

and less, also, than Rainier and Adams in Washing,
ton Territory.

There is some rivalry among the neighbors of
these great snow peaks of the north-western United
States as to which is the highest. There are four
or five of them from eleven thousand to fifteen thou-
sand feet each, and the last one the traveler beholds
seems to him not only the highest but the most
beautiful, so engrossing is the view. But the most
reliable mea.<" rements give Shasta the palm at four-
teen thousand four hundred and forty feet, and, until
within a year, made it the highest mountain peak
in the United States. Last season, however, the
explorations of the California Geological Survey
brought to knowledge a series of rare snow-cov-
ered and granite peaks, among the Sierra Nevadas
in southern California and Nevada, one or two of
which, al least, mount higher than Shasta, and, for
the present at least, may claim to be the highest
land in the Nation. One of these peaks was called
Mount Tyndall. and is about fourteen thousand five
hundred feet high ; and another, the very highest,
is named Mount Whitney for the head of the Ge-
ological Survey of California, and is at least fifteen
thousand feet high.

But no mountain peak we have yet passed in our
journey is seen to so fine advantage as Mount Hood
from the Columbia River,— it is hard to imagine a
more magnificent snow mountain ; and adding this
crowning element to the scenery of the Columbia
River, it is probably just to say qf it, that this ex-
cursion offers more of natural beauty and wonder

THB

to intercj
single jo
presents,
of course.
Hut to th
The na
the hands
not only I
opportuni
ate new o
in the wi
of the sit
set of m«
Urganize(
dred and
now, with
the two
Dalles, ar
the princi
hundred t
estate in ]
crty of rii
their bus
wealth fn
to thems(
thirty-two
lars. Wit
atilla, and
have form
est route
Coast to
Idaho, as i

•n^wi^

NT.

ams in Washing-
he nclRhbors of
i-wcstcrn United
There are four
id to fifteen thou-
: traveler beholds
:st but the most
V. But the most
the palm at four-
rty feet, and, until
t mountain peak
son, however, the
eological Survey
if rare snow-cov-
e Sierra Nevadas
la, one or two of
n Shasta, and, for
:o be the highest
; peaks was called
een thousfwd five
the very highest,
; head of the Ge-
1 is at least fifteen

: yet passed in our
ge as Mount Hood
hard to imagine a
I ; and adding this
y of the Columbia
qf it, that this ex-
leauty and wonder

THE OREGON STEAM NAVIGATION COMPANY. I93

to interest and excite the traveler, than any other
single journey or scene which the Pacific Coast
presents, except the Yosemitc valley. That must,
of course, stand first, unrivaled and unapproachable.
Hut to this I give the second place.

The navigation of the Columbia River is now in
the hands of a strong and energetic company, that
not only have the capacity to improve all its present
opportunities, but the foresight to seek out and cre-
ate new ones. They are, indeed, making new paths
in the wilderness, and show more comprehension
of the situation and purpose to develop it than any
set of men I have yet me>. on the Pacific Coast.
Organized in 1861, with property worth one hun-
dred and seventy-five thousand dollars, they have
now, with eighteen or twenty first class steamboats,
the two railroads around the Cascades and The
Dalles, and their appointments, warehouses at all
the principal towns on the river, including one nine
hundred and thirty-five feet long at Cellilo, and real
estate in preparation for future growth, a total prop-
erty of rising two millions dollars, all earned from
their business. Besides this great increase of
wealth from their own enterprise, they have paid
to themselves in dividends three hundred and
thirty-two thousand seven hundred and fifty dol-
lars. With wagon roads from The Dalles, from Um-
atilla, and from Wallula, the river and their boats
have formed and still form the cheapest and quick-
est route for travel or freight from all parts of the
Coast to the rich mines of Boise and Owyhee in
Idaho, as well as to those in eastern Oregon. Boise
9 i.^

194 " ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

City is two hundred and sixty miles from Umatilla
and Owyhee two hundred and ninety miles. The
roads from the other points are longer and poorer.
So large have been the travel and trade m this di-
rection in tCe last few years, that the Oregon steam
navigation company has carried to the Upper Co-
lumbia sixty thousand three hundred and twenty
tons in the last four years, beginning with six thou-
sand tons in 1862 and rising to nearly twenty-two
thousand tons in 1864. In the same time, their
boats have carried up and down on the river nearly
one hundred thousand passengers, increasing from
ten thousand in 1861 to thirty-six thousand in 1864.
California has at last aroused to the importance
of securing this trade, if possible, for herself, and is
opening shorter wagon routes to Idaho by way of
Chico and Red Bluffs in the upper Sacramento val-
ley, and through Nevada by the Humboldt valley;
but the Oregon people are still likely to keep the
larger share of the traffic, for their route, though
longer, is very much by water, and so cheaper, safer
and pleasanter. The Oregon navigation company
are also busy with plans for improving their own
route By opening a road one hundred and ten
miles long, across a wide bend of unnavigable
sections of the Snake River, from Wallula to the
mouth of the Powder River, they will again find
the Snake River navigable for one hundred and
fifty to two hundred miles farther up its course,
or into the very heart of the Owyhee and Boise
gold basins-, and on beyond towards Utah. Then
from this new head of navigation on the Snake

NT.

OREGON S PACIFIC RAILROAD CUT-OFF.

195

es from Umatilla
lety miles. The
nger and poorer.
I trade in this »'i-
he Oregon steam

the Upper Co-
dred and twenty
ing with six thou-
learly twenty-two
same time, their
n the river nearly
i, increasing from
thousand in 1864.
;o the importance
, for herself, and is

1 Idaho by way of
!r Sacramento val-
Humboldt valley ;
likely to keep the
hdr route, though
d so cheaper, safer
ivigation company
proving their own

hundred and ten
id of unnavigable
om Wallula to the
ley will again find

one hundred and
ther up its course,
Owyhee and Boise
rards Utah. Then
tion on the Snake

River, to Salt Lake, is but one hundred or one
hundred and fifty miles more ; so that with wagon
roads of less than three hundred miles, steam navi-
gation may soon be secured all the way from Salt
Lake to the Pacific Ocean in Oregon. Substitute
for these wagon roads a railway, or, leaving out the
navigation of the upper Snake, and building a rail-
road five hundred and fifty miles across from Salt
Lake through the gold regions of Idaho to Wallula,
whence is uninterrupted navigation down the Co-
lumbia, and the Pacific Coast is reached by steam
through Oregon with less than two-thirds the rail-
road building required for the central route into
San Francisco. The line for this suggested road
is easy, crossing the Blue Mountains in eastern
Oregon by a very favorable pass, and avoiding by
the Columbia River the great work of surmounting
the Sierra Nevadas. These are important, preg-
nant suggestions. The Oregon navigation com-
pany is impressed with their significance, and will
next spring construct a steamboat on the upper
Snake for testing the practicability of that point
in the programme. They mean at least to hold
their superiority in the commerce of Idaho, and if
the Central Pacific railway interest does not push
on its work with alacrity, the despised Oregonians
may yet show their heels to their California neigh-
bors in the matter of the quickest and cheapest
route for travel and freight from the Rocky Moun-
tains to the Coast.

So at the North, into the heart of British Colum-
bia, the Oregon steamboat company are working

(I w

1_-

196

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

out a notable plan for extending their operations.
By building a wagon portage of one hundre^ and
fifty miles north from White Bluffs, the present
head of navigation on the main stream of the Co-
lumbia, cutting off a wide and impassable angle of
the river, the stream is again struck at a navigable
point close to the forty-ninth parallel, and steamers
can be run from there one hundred and fifty to t .^o
hundred miles north through the series of lakes
into which the river widens in that region, away up
to the fifty-second and fifty-third parallels, where
steamboats were never heard of or thought of. and
into the now most famous gold region of British
Columbia, the Carriboo country. The steamboac
company are already building a steamer in this
double upper Columbia, and next season will prob-
ably be enabled to inaugurate this capital idea and
illustration of their enterprise. Now the Carriboo
mines are only reached by way of Victoria, Frazer
River, and three hundred to five hundred miles of
rough land travel. This new route will bring them
into quick and cheap communication with American
markets and American impulses at Portland.

In this and other ways, Oregon and its people
make a pleasant and promising impression upon
us They lack many of the advantages of their
neighbors below; their agriculture is less varied,
but it is more sure; mining has not poured such
irregular and intoxicating wealth into their laps;
they need, as w.ell, a more thorough farming and a
more varied industry; they need, also, as well, in-
telligent, patient labor and larger capital; but they

have bu
more wi
severe r
encount(
not of 1
Coast, ir
and mor
England
exciting
among t
the Coll
extensiv
the quar
Nevadas
capital £
but whil
and inve
the real
reckless
and ficl<
whole b
m unity,
great ob
and gro\
itself, 01
against
thrown

NT.

OREGON, PRESENT AND PROSPECTIVE I97

their operations,
ne hundre^ and
iflfs, the present
tream of the Co-
jassable angle of
:k at a navigable
llel, and steamers
d and fifty to t.vo
J series of lakes
t region, away up
. parallels, where
ir thought of, and
region of British
The steamboat
, steamer in this

season will prob-
s capital idea and
Now the Carriboo
f Victoria, Frazer
hundred miles of
ite will bring them
ion with American
at Portland,
on and its people

impression upon
[vantages of their
ure is less varied,
i not poured such
h into their laps;
jgh farming and a
d, also, as well, in-
r capital ; but they

have builded what they have got more slowly and
more wisely than the Californians ; they have less
severe reaction from hot and unhealthy growth to
encounter, — less to unlearn ; and they seem sure,
not of organizing the first State on the Pacific
Coast, indeed, but of a steadily prosperous, healthy
and moral one, — they are in the way to be the New
England of the Pacific Coast. Just now, new and
exciting discoveries of placer gold have been made
among the head waters of the John Day branch of
the Columbia River, in south-eastern Oregon, and
extensive improvements are being developed among
the quartz mines of the western slopes of the Sierra
Nevadas, just off from the Willamette valley ; and
capital and labor are hastening in both directions :
but while there is much to hope from these promises
and investments, there is also something to fear for
the real growth of the State. The uncertainty, the
recklessness, the gambling habit which the varied
and fickle results of gold mining throw over the
whole business and morals and manners of a com-
munity, that is possessed by the passion, are very
great obstacles to a real and permanent prosperity,
and growth in high civilization. May Oregon steady
itself, or be steadied by sufficiently early failure,
against such dangers as California's experience has
thrown arotmd her condition as a State.

LETTER XIX.

THROUGH WASHINGTON TERRITORY.

Olympia, W. T., July 26.

Unless you have been studying geography
lately, you will need to open your map to follow
us in our journey northward. So near the north-
western limit of the Republic and not to touch it ;
so close to John Bull and not to shake his grim
paw, and ask him what he thinks of the preposter-
ous Yankees now ; so near to that rarely beautiful
sheet of water, Puget Sound, and not to sail through
it, and know its commercial capacities and feel its
natural attractions.-^it would never do. So, two
days ago, we put out of Portland, steamed down
the Columbia for fifty miles, and up its Cowlitz
branch for two miles (all it is now navigable), and
landed on the Washington Territory side at two
houses and a stage wagon, bearing the classic name
of Monticello. Jefferson was not at home; but
there was a good dinner with Mr. Burbank, scion
of your northern Berkshire Burbanks ; testifying,
like all the rest of these border settlers, away from
schools and churches and society, that there was no
such other country anywhere, and that you could

THE

not dr!v(
of " the :

Then
gers in
ninety-n
It was I
them on
the woot
Most ui
miles of
this rid
rough b
it is just
is over
swamps
a path c
depth a
who woi
whose I
for the
laziest
memori(
instead

Butt
ests, thi
for the (
was CO
are the
larger a
tall tha
them c
growth

ERRITORY.
PIA, W. T., July 26.

iying geography
ur map to follow
near the north-
\ not to touch it ;
o shake his grim
of the preposter-
it rarely beautiful
lot to sail through
icities and feel its
;ver do. So, two
id, steamed down
id up its Cowlitz
3W navigable), and
ritory side at two
g the classic name
lot at home; but
k'Ir. Burbank, scion
rbanks; testifying,
settlers, away frooi
', that there was no
nd that you could

THE FORESTS OF WASHINGTON TERRITORY. 1 99

not drive them back to the snows and cold winters
of " the States."

The next question was, how to put eleven passen-
gers in ar open wagon that only held seven, for a
ninety-mile and two-day drive across the Territory.
It was successfully achieved by putting three of
them on saddle horses; and off we bounced into
the woods at the rate of three to four miles an hour.
Most unpoetical rounding to our three thousand
miles of staging in these ten weeks of travel, was
this ride through Washington. The road was
rough beyond description ; during the winter rains
it is just impassable, and is abandoned ; for miles it
is over trees and sticks laid down roughly in
swamps : and for the rest, — ungraded, and simply
a path cut through the dense forest, — the hight and
depth are fully equal to the length of it. Those
who worked their passage, by whipping lazy mules
whose backs they strode, and paid twenty dollars
for the privilege, made the best time, and haa the
laziest of it. Yet since, I observe, with tender
memories of hard saddles, they "stand and wait,"
instead of sitting upon wooden chairs.

But the majestic beauty of the fir and cedar for-
ests, throug . which we rode almost continuously
for the day and a half that the road stretched out,
was compensation for much discomfort. These
are the finest forests we have yet met, — the trees
larger and taller and standing thicker ; so thick and
tall that the ground they occupy could net hold
them cut and corded as wood; and the under-
growth of shrub and flower and vine and fern, al-

200 ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

•

most tropical in its luxuriance and impenetrable
for its closeitess. Washington Territory must have
more timber and ferns and blackberries and snakes
to the square mile than any other State or Territory
of the Union. We occasionally struck a narrow
prairie or a thread-like valley ; perhaps once in ten
miles a clearing of an acre or two, rugged and rough
in its half-redomptljn from primitive forest; but for
the most part it was a continuous ride through for-
ests, so high and thick that the sun could not reach
the road, so unpeopled and untouched, that the
very spirit of Solitude reigned supreme, and made
us feel its presence as never upon Ocean or Plain.
The ferns are delicious, little and big,— more of
them, and larger than you can see in New Eng-
land,— and spread their beautiful shapes on every
hand. But the settlers apply to them other adjec-
tives beginning with d, for they vindicate their
right to the soil, in plain as well as forest, with
most tenacious obstinacy, and to root them out is
a long and difficult job for the farmer.

We dined on the second day at Skookem Chuck
(which is Indian for "big water,") and came to the
head of Puget Sound, which kindly shortens the
land-passage across the Territory one-half, and this
town, the capital, at night, encountering the usual
demonstration of artillery, brass band and banners,
and most hospitable greeting from Acting-Governor
Evans and other officials and citizens. Olympia lies
charmingly under the hill by the water-side ; counts
its inhabitants less than five hundred, though still
the largest town of the Territory, save the mming

center of

wards Id

within ci

center fo

airs and 1

and entei

Phebe lit

fair Afric

robed in

and dign

training ;

If thei

among t

Coast or

good eat

Cisco to 1

ness of >

is the ru

habitanti

cooks.

lively rec

captions,

ancient 1

if you d

requeste

o' nighti

fleas an

New Er

a church

here, th(

a restau;

bitters J

INT.

ind impenetrable
rritory must have
erries and snakes
State or Territory

struck a narrow
rhaps once in ten
rugged and rough
ive forest; but for

ride through for-
in could not reach
louched, that the
ipreme, and made
n Ocean or Plain,
nd big, — more of
see in New Eng-
l shapes on every
them other adjec-
;y vindicate their
ell as forest, with
) root them out is
rmer.

It Skookem Chuck
') and came to the
mdly shortens the
^ one-half, and this
untering the usual
band and banners,
a Acting-Governor
tens, Olympia lies
water-side; counts
mdred, though still
y, save the mming

THE FOOD OF THE PACIFIC.

20 1

center of Wallula, way down in the south-east to-
wards Idaho; numbers more stumps than houses
within city limits; but is the social and political
center for a large extent of country ; puts on the
airs and holds many of the materials of fine society ;
and entertained us at a very Uncle Jerry and Aunt
Phebe little inn, whose presiding genius, a fat and
fair African of fifty years and three hundred pounds,
robed in spotless white, welcomed us with the grace
and dignity of a qu(ien, and fed us as if we were in
training for a cannibal's table.

If there is one thing, indeed, more than another,
among the facts of civilization, which the Pacific
Coast organizes most quickly and completely, it is
good eating. From the Occidental at San Fran-
cisco to the loneliest of ranches on the most wilder-
ness of weekly stage routes, a "good square meal"
is the rule ; while every village of five hundred in-
habitants has its restaurants and French or Italian
cooks. I say this with the near exj rience and the
lively recollection of one or two most illustrious ex-
ceptions, where the meals consisted of coarse bacon,
ancient beans and villainous mustard, — and where,
if you declined the two former, you were politely
requested to help yourself to mustard, — and where,
0' nights, the beds could e'en rise and walk with
fleas and bedbugs. When the Puritans settled
New England, their first public duty was to build
a church with thrifty thought for their souls. Out
here, their degenerate sons begin with organizing
a restaurant, and supplying Hostetter's stomachic
bitters and an European or Asiatic cook. So the

202

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

seat of empire, in its travel westward, changes its
base from soul to stomach, from brains to bowels.
Perhaps it is only in obedience to that delicate law
of our later civilization, which forbids us to enjoy
our religion unless we have already enjoyed our
victual, and which sends a dyspeptic to hell by an
eternal regard to the fitness of things. And cer-
tainly the piety, that ascends from a grateful and
gratified stomach, is as likely to be worthy as that
fitfully fructified by Brandreth's pills.

Is it not a little singular that only our forty-
oddth State should bear the name of Washington ?
That it was left to this day and to this cornermost
Territory to enroll his name among the stars of
the Republic's banner.? Washington Territory is
the upper half of old Oregon, divided by the Co-
lumbia River and the fortieth parallel for the south-
ern boundary, and extending up to the forty-ninth,
to which, under the reaction from the unmartial
Polk's "fifty-four-forty or fight" pretensions, our
northern line was ignominiously limited to. Its
population is small, less than twenty thousand, and
not likely to grow fast, or make it a State for some
years to come, unless the chance, not probable, of
rich gold and silver mines within its lines should
flood it with rapid immigration. But it holds sure
wealth and a large future through its certain illim-
itable forests and its probable immense coal depos-
its. Of all Its surface, west of the Cascade or Si-
erra Nevada Mountains, not more than one-eighth
is prairie or open land ; the rest is covered by a
growth of timber, such as, alike in density and in

ENT.

ward, changes its
brains to bowels,
that delicate law
rbids us to enjoy
sady enjoyed our
ptic to hell by an
hings. And cer-
)ni a grateful and
be worthy as that
lills.

t only our forty-
: of Washington ?
this cornermost
long the stars of
igton Territory is
ivided by the Co-
allel for the south-
to the forty-ninth,
om the unmartial
' pretensions, our
f hmited to. Its
:nty thousand, and
it a State for some
e, not probable, of
in its lines should

But it holds sure
h its certain illim-
imense coal depos-
the Cascade or Si-
re than one-eighth
st is covered by a

in density and in

THE SOIL OF WASHINGTON. 203

•

size, no other like space on the earth's surface can
boast of. Beyond the mountains to the East, the
country partakes of the same characteristics as that
below it; hilly, barren of trees, unfruitful, whose
chief promises and possibilities are in the cattle
and sheep line. Its arable land this side the moun-
tains, where the forests are cleared or interrupted,
is less fertile than that of Oregon and California ;
but it sufficeth for its present population, and even
admits of considerable exports of grain and meat
for the mining populations in British Columbia, and
will grow in extent and productiveness probably as
fast as the necessities of the Territory require.

yi-^^t^ "*

__«»gM^^^^^g

\m I

LETTER XX.

PUGET SOUND, AND VANCOUVER'S ISLAND,

Victoria, V. L, July 28.
We were a full day and night coming down Puget
Sound, on the steamer from Olympia; loitering
along at the villages on its either shore, and study-
ing the already considerable development of its
lumber interests, as well as regaling ourselves with
the beauty of its waters and its richly-stored forest
shores. Only the upper section of the southern
branch of these grand series of inland seas and
rivers, that sweep into the Continent here, and
make Vancouver's Island, and open uo a vast re-
gion of interior country to the ocean, is now called
Puget Sound,— only forty miles or so from Olympia
north. Formerly the whole confines went by that
name; and rightfully it should remain to all which
runs up into Washington Territory from out the
Strait of San Juan de Fuca, for this has a unity and
serves a similar purpose. For beauty and for use,
this is, indeed, one of the water wonders of the
world ; curiosity and commerce will give it, year by
year, increase of fame and visitors. It narrows to
a river's width ; it circles and swoops into the land

with c
miles <
where
free of
of all <
It i£
Coast,
shores
thirty-
sand fc
of five
ing wi
presen
lumbci
hundn
averag
millior
tomer
Pacific
Bueno
for bu
cheap(
shippii
Sound
from 1
The I
grow A
and w'
m oth(
calcuh
these
come I

PUGET S SOUND, AND ITS LUMIJKR.

205

fVER'S ISLAND.
TORIA, V. I., July 28.

aming down Puget
Hyrnpia; loitering
• shore, and study-
evelopment of its
ing ourselves with
richly-stored forest
n of the southern
f inland seas and
intinent here, and
•pen UD a vast re-
cean, is now called
3r so from Olympia
fines went by that
emain to all which
itory from out the
his has a unity and
beauty and for use,
er wonders of the
will give it, year by
jrs. It narrows to
voops into the land

with coquettish ficedom; and then it widens into
miles of breadth ; carrying the largest of shii)s any-
where on its surface, even close to the forests' edge ;
free of rocks, safe from wind and wave ; — the home
of all craft, clear, blue and fathomless.

It is the great lumber market of all the Pacific
Coast. Already a dozen saw-mills are located on its
shores ; one which we visited was three hundred and
thirty-six feet long, and turns out one hundred thou-
sand feet of lumber daily ; three ships and two barks
of five hundred to one thousand tons each were load-
ing with the product direct from the mill ; and the
present entire export of tl;e Sound, in prepared
lumber and masts and spar.s, reaches nearly to one
hundred millions of feet yearly, and yields at the
average price of ten dollars a thousand about one
million dollars. San Francisco is the largest cus-
tomer; but the Sandwich Islands, China, all the
Pacific American ports, south and north, and even
Buenos Ayres around on the Atlantic, come here
for building materials, and France finds here her
cheapest and best spars and masts. Much of the
shipping employed in the business is owned on the
Sound; one mill company has twelve vessels of
from three hundred to one thousand tons each.
The business is but in its very infancy; it will
grow with the growth of the whole Pacific Coast,
and with the increasing dearth of fine ship timber
m other parts of the world ; for it is impossible to
calculate the time when, cut and saw as we may, all
these forests shall be used up, and the supply be-
come exhausted.

to6

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

The size of these WashinKton Territory trees is
rather ovcrpoweriiiK,— we have not seen the big
trees of California yet,— and not daring to trust
unaccustomed eyes, we resorted to the statistics of
the lumbermen. Trees, six and .seven feet m diam-
eter, and two hundred to two hundred and fifty feet
!ugh, are very common, perhaps rarely out of sight
in the forest ; eight feet in diameter and three hun-
dred feet high are rarer, but still not at all uncom-
mon ;— the builder of the telegraph line has hitched
his wire in one case to a cedar (arbor vitsc) which
is fourteen feet in diameter ; a monster tree that
had fallen,— the forests arc full of fallen trees,—
measured three hundred and twenty-five feet long ;
and another tree, at the distance of ninety feet from
its root, was seven feet in diameter ! Masts for
ships are readily procurable, straight as an arrow,
and without a knot for one hundred feet, and forty
inches in diameter at thirty feet from the base. I
stop my figures here, lest my character for truthful
reporting grow questionable.

Out of the Sound and straight across the Strait,
twenty miles, we encounter the rocky shore of
Vancouver's Island ; searching along we meet a
hidden hole in the wall, and, steaming in, there
opens out a little wash-bowl of a bay ; and here is
Victoria. It is a charming surprise,— the prettiest
located and best built town on the Pacific Coast,
and next to Portland in size and business,— a
healthy copartnership of American enterprise and
enthusiasm, and English solidity and holdfastness.
The population ranges from twenty-five hundred m

summei
winters
in Hriti
to towi
and its
there ai
minous
worked
which
here co
whole '
than fi'
these r
chinery
ment,—
resenta
last yes
a year,
town b
burdeni
our pe<
special
income
practici
duties,
the con
Over
is repei
British
ulation,
from th
of Fra

irritory trees is
t seen the big
daring to trust
he statistics of
m feet in diam-
cd and fifty feet
cly out of sight
and three hun-
)t at all uncom-
line has hitched
3or vitic) which
)nster tree that
fallen trees, —
^-five feet long ;
ninety feet from
ter! Masts for
ht as an arrow,
:l feet, and forty
om the base. I
icter for truthful

icross the Strait,
rocky shore of
long we meet a
:aming in, there
bay ; and here is
c, — the prettiest
le Pacific Coast,
nd business, — a
n enterprise and
ind holdfastness.
y-five hundred in

VICTUKIA: UKITISH RULE.

207

summer and dull times (now) to five thousand in
winter and the flush season, when the mining across
in British Columbia pays well, and the miners come
to town to spend their harvest. Out of the town
and its trade, the island offers little development ;
there are some poor-paying gold mines ; good bitu-
minous coal is found in abundance, and profitably
worked; here and there is forming in patches,
which is extending, but most of the food eaten
here comes from California and Washington. The
whole white population of the island is no more
than five thousand to seven thousand, and over
these reigns the cumbersome and expensive ma-
chinery of an especial English colonial govern-
ment, — partly appointed by the crown, partly rep-
resentative, — with a parliament that sat ten montlis
last year; spending four hundred thousand dolhrs
a year, and raising it out of the business of tl\is
town by a system of taxation many times more
burdensome than our civil war has imposed on
our people, — including a tax on all sales, besides
special licenses for each particular business, and an
income tax on top of all ; but giving in return a
practically good government, a port free of customs
duties, order in the city, and excellent roads into
the country.

Over across the Gulf of Georgia the same thing
is repeated ; there stretches out the vast region of
British Columbia, with another seven thousand pop-
ulation, largely mining and American, but scattered
from the capital of New Westminster at the mouth
of Frazer River, north and east to the Carriboo

fi!

-"wmi^,:

208

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

country and the valley of the Kootenay, five hun-
dred and six hundred miles away ; duplicating this
formal and expensive machinery of government,
with £ni;lish castles almost for gubernatorial resi-
dences, and fifteen thousand dollars a year salaries
to live in them with, and a long retinue of imported
British officials to match ; raising revenue on this
side the gulf, however, from cu, .oms duties and a
fifty cent tariff on every ounce of gold dug, in part ;
and giving nothing to boast of back but better roads
to the mines than the American States offer. The
taxation for public purposes in British Columbia
swells to the enormous sum of one hundred dollars
per head of population, and that in Vancouver's
Island to seventy dollars, a year.

The Frazer River gold diggings, in British Co-
lumbia, are about worked out now; few besides
Chinamen are washing in them this year ; and the
rush of the white miners is to the more distant and
better paying regions of Carriboo and Kootenay,
though these, as all others on the Coast, are over-
shadowed this season by the fame of Idaho and
Montana.

Victoria is the chief commerc'?' "oint for these
two British Provinces, and in pari, also, for Wash-
ington Territory; and much profitable smuggling
goes on across these waters and imaginary territo-
rial lines into the .United States. There are fewer
Americans in Victoria than formerly; they are
stepping out, as its prosperity seems waning ; but
the English element is apparently increasing. The
two nations mingle pretty cordially ; the Yankees

tenay, five hun-
duplicating this
of government,
bernatorial resi-
s a year salaries
inue of imported
revenue on this
ms duties and a
old dug, in part ;
: but better roads
tates offer. The
British Columbia
; hundred dollars
in Vancouver's

;s, in British Co-
ow; few besides
lis year; and the
more distant and
and Kootenay,
J Coast, are over-
ne of Idaho and

?' "oint for these
L, also, for Wash-
fitable smuggling
iiiiaginary ternto-
There are fewer
•merly; they are
ems watiing; but
increasing. The
illy ; the Yankees

RECEPTION AT VICTORIA.

209

chafe a good deal at the extraordinarily high taxes
and the aristocratic government, and even practical
John Bull begins to see the ridiculous side of it.
More surely than the Canadas, even, when these
provinces become really important and worth hav-
ing, they will be ours. They will drift to the Union
by the inevitable law of gravitation, and by the in-
fluence of the leaven of American nationality and
sentiment, already large throughout their borders,
that will grow with their growth, and flavor their
whole progress. Three daily papers seem to pros-
per in Victoria; the stores are exceedingly well
built, and, aside from the twenty-five to thirty-three
per cent, that are now unoccupied, make a good
showing of English goods; "sh< ^ing" is cheaper
than anywhere in the States ; anct the whole order
of the civilization here has many pleasant points
of contrast with other towns on the Pacific Coast.

This, too, is the great depot of the Hudson Bay
Company ; all their business from the Pacific Coast
to the Red River of the North, beyond Minnesota,
centers here ; and their warehouses of accumulat-
ing furs and of distributing goods to pay for them
are among the chief curiosities of the place. They
do a general trading business wherever they have
stations or stores; and you can buy calicoes and
cottons, hardware and mm at their counters, as at
any old-fashioned country store in New England.

Our day and a half in Victoria has been a very
pleasant experience indeed. The Americans gave
Mr. Colfax and his friends cordial welcome; the
English were no whit less hearty in demonstration

2IO

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

of good feeling and respect ; there was what the
French call a "grand dinner," the eating whereof
lasted from seven to ten p. m., and the speaking
whereat continued from ten to three A. m., — the re-
sult of which was that all little international differ-
ences and accounts were amicably adjusted, Andy
Johnson and Queen Victoria were married, and the
two grand nations of the Anglo-Saxon race were
joined into one overpowering, all-subduing, all-fruc-
tifying Republic ! "And what a bloody country that
would be," exclaimed an enthusiastic Britisher at
one of the clock in the morning.

How could the little question as to the title to a
group of small islands in this inland sea, and known
by the name of the largest,' San Juan, be thought
of in such a fraternal baptism ? And, indeed, by
the cool of the morning after, it seems a very small
affair. Nothing but wide war between the two
countries could evc;r make it of the slightest prac-
tical consequence. The question turns on whether
the boundary line runs from strait to gulf by one
channel or the other, this side the isUinds or that.
Meantime, each government supports a captain and
corporal's guard of soldiers on San Juan,— only dis-
tinguishable, probably, one fiom the other by the
blue and the red of their uniforms,— and fraterniz-
ing daily, doubtless, over a game of cards and a
whisky bottle. All these differences do indeed
grov; small and unpractical as you get near to
them ; and it is difiicult to appreciate what an ex-
citement and passion one of our generals created
up here a few years ago by laying hold on the whole

of what

map, anc

ican clai

view of

our lap i

uable, th

dcfinitel;

Up he

treal, we

to you ii

of Calif

in deep

Mounts

down Pi

to three

in hight

of deep

coast, 01

region o

white tl

ical flow

Victoria

shadow!

and rai

fuchsias

and otb

rioting

and all

not gro

The

present

son wit

:nt.

re was what the
; eating whereof
nd the speaking
ee A. M., — the re-
ternational differ-
y adjusted, Andy
; married, and the
Saxon race were
subduing, all-fruc-
oody country that
astic Britisher at

LS to the title to a
id sea, and known
Juan, be thought

And, indeed, by
eems a very small
between the two
he slightest prac-

turns on whether
ait to gulf by one
he isliinds or that.
)orts a captain and
in Juan, — only dis-

the other by the
tis, — and fratemiz-
ic of cards and a
;rences do indeed

you get near to
;ciate what an ex-
r generals created
f hold on the whole

THE SUMMER IN VICTORIA.

211

of what the half is a burden. Palpably, by the
map, and by the course of ocean travel, the Amer-
ican claim to these islands is the right one ; but ii\
view of the certainty of all this apple falling into
our lap as soon as it is ripe enough to be really val-
uable, the present status may as well as not go in-
definitely on.

Up here, above the latitude of Que'bec and Mon-
treal, we bask in the smile of roses that are denied
to you in New England. Mounts Shasta and Hood
of California and Oregon are more than rivaled
in deep snow fields and majestic snow peaks by
Mounts Rainier and Baker of Washington ; sailing
down Puget Sound, we take in the former from base
to three peaked summit of thirteen thousand feet
in hight, all aglow with perpetual white, — a feature
of deep beauty and impressiveness ; along the sea
coast, on the opposite side, the hills also ribe to the
region of continuous snow, and look down bald and
white through the long summer days into the trop-
ical flower gardens and orchards and hot streets of
Victoria ; and here, everywhere under these wintry
shadows, reigns a year, that knows no zero cold,
and rarely freezing water or snow; that winters
fuchsias and the most delicate roses, English ivies
and other tender plants, aYid summers- them with
rioting luxuriance ; that grows the apple, the pear
and all the small fruits to perfection, and only can-
not grow our Indian corn.

The climate of all this Pacific Coast certainly
presents many solaces and satisfactions in compari-
son with our own New England. I do not wonder

212

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

the emigrants hither find new health and life and
much happiness in its great comparative evenness ;
but I do not yet recognize that which would com-
pensate me for the loss of our slow, hesitating, coy-
ing spring times, our luxuriously-advancing, tender,
red and brown autumns, aye, and our clear and
crisply-cold winter days and snow-covered lands,
with the contrasting evergreens, the illuminated
sky, the delicately fretted architecture of the leaf-
less trees, the sunsets, the nerve-giving tonic of the
air. Surely there is more various beauty in the
progress of a New England year than any which
all the Pacific Coast can offer.

SAN FR/

"Fris<
calls the
a good pi
and rollii
on a wide
legs over
cramping
It is sora
junction
quick, ch
"to be s
sleep as
mind to
bands lie
horrid W(
ners vex

There
independ
city. Ai
The Wa:

ENT.

lalth and lii'e and
arative evenness ;
rhich would com-
w, hesitating, coy-
idvancing, tender,
id our clear and
)w-covered lands,
, the illuminated
icture of the leaf-
jiving tonic of the
us beauty in the
r than any which

LETTER XXI.

SAN FRANCISCO: MR. COLFAX AND HIS RECEP-
TION IN THE PACIFIC STATES.

San Francisco, August a.

" Friscoe," as the interior lovingly and for short
calls the commercial capital of the Pacific Coast, is
a good place to come back to, after dusty stage rides
and rolling ocean travel. It is refreshing to stretch
on a wide bed at the Occidental, after tangling your
legs over night in the corner of a " mud wagon," or
cramping them in the narrow berth of a steamer.
It is something to miss the punctual Speaker's in-
junction to be ready at four in the morning, and his
quick, cheery voice at quarter before, cautioning us
"to be sure and be on hand;" something also to
sleep as long as we can, and eat when we have a
mind to; much, indeed, to know that no brass
bands lie in wait for us, no hoarse cannon hold a
horrid welcome for tender nerves, no midnight din-
ners vex dyspeptic stomachs.

There is real refreshment and rest, always, in the
independence and let-you-alone-ativeness of a large
city. And Friscoe is, indeed, a good place, per se.
The Washoe people have their chief fhcentive to

214

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

h'fi ,

piety in the assirraiice that thus, when they die,
they will come here ; just as good Bostonians count
Paris their paradise. These bare, brown and white
sand hills, that Nature exposes wliere art has not
covered her, all around in San Francisco, furnish
no poetical proof of the susceptible Washoe theory ;
they are just about as far away from all traditional
and imaginative ideas of the Garden of Eden as it
is possible for ugly fact to be ; but the dissimilitude
of the "F;;iscoe" climate to all known anywhere else
on the face of the terrestrial globe, may suggest a
point on the side of the Washoeites. You cannot
palm off old Thomas's almanac on the weather
question, — "calculated for Boston, but equally ap-
plicable to any other meridian," — in this town.
San Francisco weather is only its own parallel;
there is nothing like it, either here on the Pacific
Coast, or elsewhere, so far as Bayard Taylor has
traveled, or Fitzhugh Ludlow imagined in Hash-
eesh. It has its summer in winter, and its winter
in summer ; the ladies go to church and to opera
and a shopping, in July and August, clad in heavy
furs ; overcoats are a daily necessity to every man
not lined with a patent air-tight coal stove; and
this very day of August is borrowed from the sui-
cide week of November, — I would go "my bottom
dollar," as the miners say, that it would siiow in
half an hour, were I on my native heath. And
yet, — ingrate, am I not ? — while I write this plaint,
I am eating Sweetwater grapes bought in the shops
at ten cents a pound, though the season is but just
opening; Black Hamburgs are equally cheap and

plenty ;
cents tc
apricots,
berri ,s (
at equal:

What
is, that i
where, a
break tt
ivca, hen
ters of
bay, anc
breeze i
changes
betweer
sky is c
Thus th
apologi2
of weal
here, ar
the dayi
cool ; a:
ciably.

Ben
broughl
days ; 2
by the
storm r
but rol
and th«
by higl
fortificj

ENT.

5, when they die,
I Bostonlans count
, brown and white
(vliere art has not
Francisco, furnish
le Washoe theory ;
rom all traditional
den of Eden as it
It the dissimilitude
own anywhere else
ibe, may suggest a
ites. You cannot
c on the weather
•n, but equally ap-
1," — in this town.

its own parallel;
lere on the Pacific
3ayard Taylor has
magined in Hash-
iter, and its winter
lurch and to opera
gust, clad in heavy
issity to every man
It coal stove; and
awed from the sui-
ild go " my bottom

it would siiow in
lative heath. And
I write this plaint,
)ought in the shops
g season is but just
equally cheap and

:an Francisco's summers.

215

plenty ; peaches are ponderous and luscious at fifty
cents to one dollar a basket; and pears, plums,
apricots, nectarines, figs, blackberries and straw-
bcrri ,s (still !) all flood the fruit stores, and are sold
at equally low rates.

What gives San Francisco its harsh summer days
is, that it is constantly " in the draft." While else-
where, along shore, the coast hills uninterruptedly
break the steady north-west breeze of the summer
sea, here they open just enough to let out the wa-
ters of the Sacramento River and San Fiancisco
bay, and let in like a tide of escape steam the ocean
breeze and mists. When winter comes, the wind*
changes to south-east, and blows to softer scale, and
between showers, — for then comes the rain, — the
sky is clearer and the air balmier than in summer.
Thus the Friscoe people boast of their winters, and
apologize for their summers. Invalids, especially
of weak lungs, find the latter seasons very trying
here, and flee to the protected valleys inland, where
the days are hot and clear, and the nights agreeably
cool ; and come back here to winter safely and so-
ciably.

Ben HoUaday's good steamer Sierra Nevada
brought us down from Victoria in less than three
days ; and we tried the Pacific Ocean and came in
by the Golden Gate for the first time. Though no
storm raged, the sea did not prove title to the name,
but rolled and pitched us altogether unpacifically ;
and the mile wide gate to San Francisco, guarded
by high hills, abruptly opened, and bristling with
fortifications, found from us ready answer to its

2l6

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

welcome ; and we swept around its double corner,
and came to wharf in the generous and land-locked
bay of San Francisco, with thanksgiving and grati-
tude, swelling anew and higher to Providence, Cap-
tain Conner and Dr. Murdock, as we learned the
sad fate of our alternate steamer, the Brother Jona-
than, on her passage by us up the route. We passed
her and her fatal rock, only an hour or two before
their sudden and sad collision ; and we readily join,
as you can imagine, in the wide tide of feeling that
the disaster creates here. The genial old General
Wright, long and honorable in service, and beloved
throughout the Pacific States, and Mr. Nesbit of
the Bulletin editorial staff, we knew, and had expe-
rienced their hospitality. Other prominent and be-
loved citizens went down in that mysterious, sudden
wreck.

Speaker Colfax and his friends have now made
the round of the Pacific States and Territories, so
far as their time will admit. Idaho and Montana
they regret not to visit, but they have obtained
much intimate knowledge of their characteristics
and capacities. A month more remains to them
here ; and this they spend in excursions to the in-
terior of California,— to the Big Trees, the Yosem-
ite, the Geysers, etc., — and in more private engage-
ments in this city and State, than they have yet
been able to make. The Speaker's public visit, or
perhaps more properly his public reception by the
people of the Pacific States, may be said to be over.
It has been a very remarkable one for its generos-
ity and universality and spontaneity; altogether

ENT.

ts double corner,
s and land-locked
sgiving and grati-
Providence, Cap-
is we learned the
the Brother Jona-
oute. We passed
our or two before
id we readily join,
ide of feeling that
;enial old General
rvice, and beloved
nd Mr. Nesbit of
Bw, and had expe-
prominent and be-
aysterious, sudden

s have now made
md Territories, so
laho and Montana
ley have obtained
leir characteristics
remains to them
cursions to the in-
Trees, the Yosem-
ire private engage-
lan they have yet
er's public visit, or
c reception by the
' be said to be over,
ne for its generos-
ineity ; altogether

THE GREETINGS TO MR. COLFAX.

217

unexpected to him, and so still more flattering;
and greatly creditable to the hospitality and genu-
ine patriotism of the people of these States. I have
omitted any record of it, in our progress from town
to town and State to State, becaiise the story in all
general terms was the same. But now that it is
substantially over and the journey completed, it is
only simple truth to say that no man ever had such
a generous popular welcome on these shores before.
From his arrival at Austin in Nevada, where we
first struck the spreading tide of Pacific civilization
and population, through that State, through Cali-
fornia to this city, and again northerly through
the State, through Oregon and Washington, and
into the British Provinces, up to this time, — a
period of six weeks, — his progress through the
country has been a continuous popular ovation.
Everywhere the same welcome from authorities
and citizens, the same unstinted proffer of every^
facility for the journey, for seeing all parts of the
country, all shades of its development: special
coaches, special trains and extra steamboats have
been at his service ; welcome everywhere to confi-
dence, to fullest fact from most intelligent sources ;
welcome everywhere by brass band, cannon, mili-
fary escort, public addresses ; and everywhere, even
to smallest village and tavern collection of neigh-
boring rancheros, the same eager desire to hear the
distinguished visitor speak, and eke then for big
or little orations from his less distinguished com-
panions.
There is a combination of causes for the marked

2i8 ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

to Mr. Colfax in all this region. Chief, of course
are h s conspicuous public position, and the fact tha
ie is the fir Jt man high in State who has ever visited
the Pacific States for the simple and sole reason of
studying their resources and interests, so as tl c
bette to serve them in the government; his early
a^d Lady friendship and lead-^ip m importan
lecislation at Washington in behalf of all this re
In Z wide personal popularity among public
Ten 'and private men, who have ever known him
Z the m'agnetic spread of this Populan^^^^^^^^^^
his iourncy from his intercourse with the people
and hrspeeches to them. We must add to these
easons. now, the newly-developed and hea^^^^^^^^^
nathv of these western States with the pohtical ex
rertUes and interests of the East; their inability
Tshare in the war directly, but their therefore
Ire intensely loyal feeling in regard to it and i
issues, and the limited occasion for expressing it.
Also and an important consideration, is the eager
Lwng for larger knowledge and new appreciation
of the capacitfes and interests of these States, in
this time of their depression and compara >ve pov-
erty ; and the desire for the spread of such infor-
m Jion among the public men. and through th.
press of the last, as will lead to a fresh emigration
and a new supply of capital. It is dull times here ;
ft fs flush tim^s in the East; and the West wou^
borrow of our new life and prosperity. Mr. Colfax
and his companions ..ere men thought to be m po-
sitions to contribute to such results; and part of

their wcl
hospitalit
confcssec
motive, |
croditabl
bountiful
people n
feeling a
are move
Mr. C(
cverywh(
route wai
to be tun
greeting
long and
«ince he
speeches
ied, they
elaborate
ular eloq
in all his
other of
so much,
cced so w
ing have
frankness
plicity in
clear exp
which ha
with his
treated h
ing out <

iNT.

THE SPEECHES OF MR. COLFAX.

219

of this welcome
Chief, of course,
, and the fact that
10 has ever visited
,nd sole reason of
terests, so as the
•nment ; his early
ship in important
lalf of all this re-
•ity among public
ever known him,
i popularity along
e with the people
must add to these
:d and hearty sym-
ith the political ex-
ast ; their inability
)ut their therefore
regard to it and its
1 for expressing it.
iration, is the eager
id new appreciation
of these States, in
id compara ive pov-
pread of such infor-
a, and through the
a fresh emigration
:t is dull times here;
and the West would
sperity. Mr. Colfax
thought to be in po-
results ; and part of

their welcome, part of the generous confidence and
hospitality that have been extended to them, have
confessedly been on this ground. Such union of
motive, gratitude, appreciation, loyalty, wise and
creditable selfishness, have inspired and fed most
bountiful welcome and treatment. These western
people never do anything by halves ; they give of
feeling and of time and of money, whenever they
are moved, without stint, without calculation.

Mr. Colfax has freely gratified the popular desire
everywhere to listen to his voice ; no place on his
route was too small, no gathering too insignificant,
to be turned off with indifference, when such hearty
greeting appealed for attention ; and he has spoken,
long and short, an average of at least once a day
since he left the Missouri River; — some days his
speeches number four and five. Never much stud-
ied, they were rarely alike in form ; never greatly
elaborated, they always reached a high level of pop-
ular eloquence. The average quality of excellence
in all his efforts has surprised me : I doubt if any
other of our public men could speak so often and
so much, and on such various occasions, and suc-
ceed so well in all. The characteristics of his speak-
ing have been practical wisdom or good sense, entire
frankness in utterance of opinions, a charming sim-
plicity in his style of oratory, coupled with a ready,
clear expression, and a steady, natural enthusiasm,
which have kept his hearers in constant sympathy
with his individuality. The staple subjects he has
treated have been the War and the questions grow-
ing out of it, the Resources of the Pacific States

-"•"mx^

220 ACROSS THK CONTINENT.

and their development, the Mining and the taxation
of its results, the Mexican question and the Monn.e
doetrinc, the Future Destiny of the Kcpubhc Mr
Lincoln and his character, the Pacific Railroad, and
such local and personal matters as the place and

hour suggested. , . • i

As to the mines and the taxation of their prod-
ucts, which is a subject of much anxiety in the
mining districts. Mr. Colfax has taken the ground
that the mineral lands should be thrown open by
the government to the free occupation of discover-
ers and workers, the same as our agricultural lands,
and under similar regulations to those the miners
themselves have adopted, in the absence of any
governmental action, and that the government
should not tax the product until it passes, finally.
in the form of bullion, into the commercia uses of
the world ;~the same as it taxes grain only m the
form of whiskey and flour, sheep and wool as cloth,
and the woods in their last processes of manufac-
ture He argued this point so justly and strongly
that he gained general acquiescence even from the
classes who have generally contended that mining
should, in no form or stage, be obliged to contribute
to the support of the government.

On the Mexican question, he even -more bravely
set himself against the current of public opinion on
this Coast. Here it is popular to talk of " cleaning
out" Maximilian in sixty days ; of taking up arms for
the Juarez government, even if war with England
and France should thus be precipitated. Mr. Coltax
said distinctly that he had no sympathy with this

MK. (

demand ;

thought 1

Mexico ;

by our p<

new war

needed tl

we nccdc

our mine

titrc, and

bidden o:

war; anc

and a g(

the pcof

factorily

calamity

by the ]

and aga

made a

citizens

his opin

almost a

of the r

added to

by his c(

His visit

for the i

Mr. C

Placervi

and 01>

plcte ai

sions.

combine

NT.

MK. COLFAX AND THE MEXICAN (jUESTION. 221

and the taxation

and the Monroe

Republic, Mr.

ic Railroad, and

IS the place and

)n of their prod-

1 anxiety in the

aken the ground

thrown open by

ition of discover-

igricultural lands,

those the miners

; absence of any

the government

it passes, finally,

)mmercial uses of

grain only in the

and wool as cloth,

:esses of manufac-

ustly and strongly

nee even from the

mded that mining

liged to contribute

;ven«more bravely

■ public opinion on
) talk of "cleaning

■ taking up arms for
war with England
litated. Mr. Colfax
ympathy with this

demand ; he believed in the Monroe doctrine, he
thought the Juarez was the rightful government of
Mexico ; but he was for no hasty, no harsh action
by our people or government. We should have no
new war if it could be avoided honorably; wc
needed the healing, developing influences of peace;
we needed to build the Pacific Railroad, to develop
our mines and our manufactures and ou. agricul-
ture, and to pay our debts, — all which wouM be for-
bidden or suffer delay and depression under foreign
war ; and he believed that with patience and tact,
and a generous confidence in our government by
the people, the Mexican question would be satis-
factorily solved ere long, without any such dire
calamity as a new and gencial taking up of arms
liy the Nation. Pressing these views constantly
and against the popular passion, he has clearly
made a strong impression in their favor; leading
citizens and prominent journals have responded to
his opinions ; and he may be said to have worked
almost a revolution in the current public sentiment
of the Pacific States on this subject ; while he has
added to the universal respect felt for him personally
by his courage in espousing an unpopular view here.
His visit may be counted as of real national benefit
for the influence of his course in this matter alone.
Mr. Colfax's speeches at Austin, Virginia City,
Placerville, Sacramento, San Francisco, Portland
and Olympia may be reckoned as his most com-
plete and satisfactory and statesmanlike discus-
sions. That at the dinner table in Victoria, to his
combined American and British entertainers, was

tmm

222 ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

his finest specimen of popular eloquence ; it was
well-conceived and tasteful in thought, well-pitched
and richly sustained in expression; and its impres-
sion upon his audience, one of the nxost intelligent
and critical he has ever addressed, wai? most decided
and gratifying. The leading ' English gentlemen
present were enthusiastic concerning both its mat-
ter and manner. It breatned the spirit of peace
and fraternal feeling towards the English sovereign
and people; while setting forth most effectively the
success and destiny of the great American Re-

public.

Mr. Colfax has indeed gained credit and popu-
larity everywhere on his journey, and his visit here
is as likely to prove as valuable to him personally,
in his growth as a public man, as it surely will be
important and useful in intertwining the bonds of
business and of political union, of profit and of pa-
triotism, among the widely separated .States of the
Nation. Of his compar.ions in his travels, Governor
Bross has generally joined him in addressing the
popular audiences that have welcomed the party,
and Mr. Richardson occasionally, and both with
much acceptance. The Governor is sure to gam
the cheers of the men, the smiles of the ladies;
and Mr. Richardson has charmed all by his cul-
tured sentences and his well-rounded rhetoric

holding

NT.

oquence; it was
ght, well-pitched
, and its impres-
n\ost intelligent
va:5 most decided
iglish gentlemen
ing both its mat'
2 spirit of peace
English sovereign
jst eflfsctively the
t American Re^

credit and popu-
and his visit here
him personally,
5 it surely will be
ling the bonds of
■ profit and of pa-
ited States of the
i travels, Governor
in addressing the
[corned the party,
y, and both with
or is sure to gain
les of the ladies;
ed all by his cul-
aded rhetoric

LETTER XXII.

THE YOSEMITE VALLEY AND THE BIG TREES.

YosEMiTE Vailey, California, August n.

The Yosemite ! As well interpret God in thirty-
nine articles as portray it to you by word of mouth
or pen. As well reproduce castle or cathedral by
a stolen frieze, or broken column, as thifs assem-
blage of natural wonder and beauty by photograph
or painting. The overpowering sense of the sub-
lime, of awful desolation, of transcending marvel-
ousness and unexpectedness, that swept over us, as
we reined our*horses sharply out of green forests,
and stood upon high jutting rock that overlooked
this rolling, upheaving sea of granite mountains,
holding far down its rough lap this vale of beauty
of meadow and grove and river,— such tide of feel-
ing, such stoppage of ordinary emotions comes at
rare intervals in any life. It was the confrontal of
God face to face, as in great danger, in solemn, sud-
den death. 4t was Niagara, magnified. All that
was mortal shrank back, all that was immortal
swept to the front and bent down in awe. We
sat till the rich elements of beauty came out of the
majesty and the desolation, and then, eager to get

224

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

nearer, pressed tired horses down the steep, rough
path into the Valley.

And here we have wantlered and wondered
and worshiped for four days. Under sunshine
and shadow ; by rich, mellow moonlight ; by stars
opening double wide their eager eyes ; through a
peculiar August haze, delicate, glowing, creamy, yet
hardly perceptible as a distinct element,— the New
England Indian summer haze doubly refined,— by
morning and evening twilight, across camp fires, up
from beds upon the ground through all the watches
of the night, have we seen these, the great natural
wonders and beauties of this western world. In-
deed, it is not too much to say that no so limited
space in all the known world offers such majestic
and impressive beauty. Niagara alone divides hon-
ors with it in America. Only the whole of Switzer-
land can surpass it,— no one scene in all the Alps
can match this before me now in the things that
mark the memory and impress all- the senses for
beauty and for sublimity.

The one distinguishing feature is a double wall
of perpendicular granite, rising from a half a mile
to a mile in hight, and inclosing a valley not more
than half a mile in width on the average, and from
ten to fifteen miles in length. It is a fissure, a
chasm, rather than a valley, in solid rock mountains ;
there is not breadth enough in it for even one of
its walls to lie down ; and yet it ofMs all the fer-
tility, all the beauties of a rich valley. There is
meadow with thick grass ; there are groves of pine
and oak, the former exquisite in form and majestic

in size, ri

drcd and

birch, ba>

shrubs; j

violet an(

skies can

cant field

pine and

find a fai

and out a

and trans

air leaves

polished

deep poo

holding 1

brook tr<

the shrul

Valley ai

variety a:

but they

numbers,

and swe<

as those

Now i

sharp, or

irregular

granite i

and Hob

The col(

drab or

soft. In

is dark

THE VERDURE OF THE VALLEY.

225

he Steep, rough

and wondered
Fnder sunshine
ilight ; by stars
yes; through a
ing, creamy, yet
nent, — the New
Dly refined, — by
is camp fires, up
I all the watches
lie great natural
ern world. In-
it no so limited
s such majestic
one divides hon-
rhole of Switzer-
i in all the Alps
the things that
I'the senses for

is a double wall
>m a half a mile

valley not more
^rerage, and from
It is a fissure, a
rock mountains ;

for even one of
)fMs all the fer-
^alley. There is
re groves of pine
jrm and majestic

in size, rising often to two hundred and two hun-
dred and fifty feet ; there arc thickets of willow and
birch, bay trees and dogwood, and various flowering
shrubs ; primrose and cowslip and golden rod and
violet and painted cup, more delicate than eastern
skies can welcome, make gay garden of all the va-
cant fields now in August; the aroma of mint, of
pine and fir. of flower loads the air; the fern family
find a familiar home everywhere ; and winding in
and out among all flows the Merced River, so pure
and transparent that you can hardly tell where the
air leaves off" and the water begins, rolling rapid over
polished stones or soft £ mds, or staying in wide,
deep pools that invite the bather and the boat, and
holding trout only less rich and dainty than the
brook trout of New England. The soil, the trees,
the shrubs, the grasses and the flowers of this little
Valley are much the same in general character and
variety as those of your Connecticut River valleys ;
but they are richer in development and greater in
numbers. They borrow of the mountain fecundity
and sweetness ; and they are fed by summer rains
as those of other California valleys rarely are.

Now imagine, — can you.'— rising up, sheer and
sharp, on each side of this line of fertile beauty,
irregularly-flowing and variously-crowned walls of
granite rock, thrice as high as your Mounts Tom
and Holyoke, twice as high as Berkshire's Graylock.
The color of the rock is most varied. A grayish
drab or yellow is the dominant shade, warm and
soft. In large spots, it whitens out ; and again it
is dark and discolorel as if by long exposure to
io» IS

■«';i!

226

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

rain and snow and^wind. Sometimes the light and
dark shades are thrown into quick centrist on a
single wall, and you know where the Zebra and
Dr. Bellows' church were borrowed from. More
varied and exquisite still are the shapes into which
the rocks are thrown. The one gie. t conspicuous
object of the Valley is a massive, two-sided wall,
standing out into and over the meadow, yellowish-
gray in color, and rising up into the air unbroken,
square, perpendicular, for ftill three-quarters of a
mile. It bears in Spanish and Indian the name of
the Gre ••. Jehovah ; and it is easy to believe that it
was an jbject of worship by the barbarians, as it is
not difficult for civilization to recognize the Infinite
in it, and impossible not to feel awed and humbled
in its presence.

In other places these mountain walls of rock take
similar and only less majestic shape ; while as fre-
quently thej assume more poetical and fantastic
forms. Here and there are grand massive domes,
as perfect in shape as your State-house dome, and
bigger than the entire of a dozen State-houses.
The highest rock of the Valley is a perfect half-
dome, split sharp and square in the middle, and
rising almost a mile or near five thousand feet,—
as high as Mount Washington is above the level of
the sea, — over the little lake which perfectly mirrors
its majestic form at its foot. Perfect pyramids take
their places in the wall ; then these pyramids come
in families, and mount away one after and above
the other, as " The Three Brothers." " The Cathe-
dral Rocks" and "The Cathedral Spires" unite the

great n
form of
^nd coL
them, tl
cathedr
but bat
The
sloping
times
stretchi
out of
arches
shelves
able cr
pearinj
wall; £
anothe
columr
face; s
ley lik<
and si
shapes
massiv
great r
the we
ments,
house
low.

Ove
ter ou
h'ghei
thousa

■■^^"

NT.

les the light and
k contrast on a
I the Zebra and
ed from. More
liapes into which

1 e< t conspicuous
!, two-sided wall,
:adow, yellowish-
:he air unbroken,
ree-quarters of a
dian the name of
to believe that it
larbarians, as it is
gnize the Infinite
ved and humbled

walls of rock take
ipe ; while as fre-
cal and fantastic
d massive domes,
-house dome, and
zen State-houses,
is a perfect half-
i the middle, and

2 thousand feet, —
above the level of
h perfectly mirrors
feet pyramids take
;se pyramids come
t after and above
rs." "The Cathe-
1 Spires" unite the

THE MONARCH ROCKS.

227

great impressiveness, the beauty and the fantastic
form of the Gothic architecture. From their shape
.and color alike, it is easy to imagine, in looking iipon
them, that you are under the ruins of an old Gothic
cathedral, to which tjiose of Cologne and Milan are
but baby-houses.

The most common form of the rocks is a slightly
sloping bare wall, lying in long, dizzy sweeps, some-
times Horizontal, sometimes perpendicular, and
stretchii g up and up so high as to cheat the Valley
out of hours of sunshine every day. Here huge
arches are carved on the face ; there long, narrow
shelves run midway, along which and in every avail-
able crevice, great pines sprout and grow, yet ap-
pearing like shrubs against the broad hight of tlie
wall : again, the rock lies in thick folds, one upon
another, like the hide of a rhinoceros ; occasional
columns stand out as if sculptured upon the sur-
face ; sometimes it juts out at the top over the Val-
ley like the brim of a beaver ; and then it recedes
and sharpens to a cone. Many of the various
shapes and shades of color in the surface of these
massive walls of rock come from the peeling off of
great masses of the granite. Frost and ice get into
the weak crevices, and blast out huge slices or frag-
ments, that fr^ll in boulders, from the size of a great
house down to that of an apple, into the valley be-
low.

Over the sides of the walls pour streams of wa-
ter out of narrower valleys still above, and yet
h'gher and far away, rise to twelve and thirteen
thousand feet the culminating peaks of the Sierra

228

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

J., />

Nevadas, with still visible fields of melting suovs.
All forms and shapes and colors of majesty and
beaflty cluster around this narrow spot ; it seem^
created the home of all that is richest in inspiration
for the heroic in life, for poetry^ for painting, for im-
aginative religion.

The Water-falls of the Valley, though a lesser inci-
dent in all its attractions, offer much that is marvel-
ous and beautiftil. This, however, is the season of
their feeblest power. It is in May and June, when
their fountains are freshest, that they appear at their
best, and assume their proper place in the grand
panorama of beauty and sublimity. In the main
portion of the Valley, the Bridal Vail is the first con-
spicuous fall,— now a dainty rivulet starting over a
precipice nine hundred feet high, but nearly all lost
at once in delicate spray that, sways and scatters in
the light breeze, and fastens upon the wall, as sign
of its being and its beauty, the fabled rainbow of
promise. The name of this fall is well chosen ; it
is type of the delicate gauze, floating and illusory,
by which brides delight to hide their blushes and
give mystery to their charms. Farther up, before
the hotel, you see the Yosemite Fall, perhaps twice
the size in volume of the Bridal Vail, but distin-
guished for its hight,— the greatest bight of any
water-fall yet discovered in the world. It is broken
about two-thirds the way down its high wall of rock
by projecting masses of the mountain, giving it sev-
eral hundred feet of cataract passage ; but counting
its whole fall from top to bottom, it is two thousand
six hundred feet in hight, which is onlv fifteen times

as high 1
ribbon c
delicate
season, '
down, it
wonderf
The>
or three
in by tl
these, tl
upper f(
and fift)
points 1
fall is Ci
hight wi
exquisit
nomena
name of
into a J
half wa;
ing wall
keep th(
of foam
there is
cinating
in Wate
culiar c
water b
sheet, r
beginni
rock, ea
ing of 1

THE VERNAL AND NEVADA FALLS.

229

nelting suovs.
if majesty and
spot; it seeing
t in inspiration
ainting, for im-

gh a lesser inci-
that is marvel-
s the season of
ind June, when
appear at their
e in the grand
In the main
is the first con-
starting over a
it nearly all lost
and scatters in
he wall, as sign
)led rainbow of
well chosen; it
ng and illusory,
eir blushes and
rther up, before
11, perhaps twice
Vail, but distin-
st hight of any
Id. It is broken
[ligh wall of rock
.in, giving it sev-
je; but counting
is two thousand
)nlv fifteen times

as high as Niagara Falls ! Now, it is a mere silvery
ribbon of spray, shooting down its long passage in
delicate rockets of whitened foam. Earlier in the
season, when ten times the volume of water pours
down, it must, indeed, be a feature of fpscinating,
wonderful beauty.

The Valley above this point .separates into two
or three narrow canyons, and these are soon walled
in by the uprising rocks. At the end of one of
these, the main branch of the river falls from its
upper fountains over two walls, one three hundred
and fifty feet high and the other seven hundred, at
points half a mile apart. The lower and shorter
fall is called the Vernal, and pours down its whole
hight without a break, and forms at the base a most
exquisite circular rainbow, one of the rarest phe-
nomena in all hature. The upper fall bears the
name of Nevada, breaks as it comes over its crest
into a grand blossom of spray, and strikes, about
half way down its seven hundred feet, the obtrud-
ing wall, which thence offers just sufficient slope to
keep the water and carry it in chasing, circling lines
of foam to the bottom. This is the fall of falls, —
there is no rival to it here in exquisite, various, fas-
cinating beauty; and Switzerland, which abounds
in Water-falls of like type, holds none of such pe-
culiar charms. Not a drop of the rich stream of
water but is white in its whole passage, — it is one
sheet, rather one grand lace-work of spray from
beginning to end. As it sweeps down its plane of
rock, each drop all distinct, all alive, there is noth-
ing of human art that you can compare it with but

*■■!

330 ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

innumerable and snow-white point-lace collars and
capes; as much more delicate and beaut:ft.l and
perfect, however, as Nature ever is than Art. tor
half the distance between the two falls, the river
runs swift over a solid plane of granite, clean and
smooth as ice, as if Neptune was on a grand slidmg-

down hill frolic. e ^ *u^

The excursion to this head of the chasm from the
stopping-place below is through narrow defiles, over
fallen rocks, up the sides of precipices, and over
perpendicular walls by ladders, for a total distance
of about four miles, and is the most difficu t and
fatiguing one that confronts the visitor; but both
in L beauty of its Water-falls, and the new and
rare shapes of rock scenery that it offers it is most
richly compensating, and never should be omitted^
The journey hither from San Ftancisco is bc.h
a tedious and an expensive one. and so a barrier to
the extensive popular enjoyment of the rare works
of nature here gathered. But the number of visi-
tors is rapidly increasing; last year there were in
all but one hundred, and already this season over
three hundred persons have come into the Valley.
Congress has ceded the territory of the Valley to
the State of California for reservation and preser-
vation as a spot for public resort and popular enjoy-
ment; and a laudable and promising effort is now
making, under the lead of Mr. Frederick Law Olm-
sted, the manager of the Mariposa estate, to secure
an appropriation from the State treasury for improv-
ing the means of access, laying out paths among its
beauties, and providing cheap yet agreeable accom-

THE JOURNEY TO THE YOSEMITE.

231

lace collars and

1 beautiful and
than Art. For
. falls, the river
anite, clean and
a grand sliding-

! chasm from the
TOW defiles, over
ipices, and over
a total distance
ost difficult and
'isitor; but both
nd the new and
offers, it is most
lould be omitted,
i'tancisco is be .h
id so a barrier to
)f the rare works
J number of visi-
;ar there were in
this season over

2 into the Valley,
r of the Valley to
ation and preser-
ind popular enjoy-
sing effort is now
ederick Law Olm-
sa estate, to secure
easury for improv-
ut paths among its
t agreeable accom-

modations for visitors. This wise cession and dedi-
cation by Congress, and proposed improvement by
California, also includes the nearest of the groves
of Big Trees, which is to be similarly held and pro-
tected for the public benefit, and furnishes an ad-
mirable example for other objects of natural curi-
osity and popular interest all over the Union. New
York should preserve for popular use both Niagara
Falls and its neighborhood and a generous section
of her famous Adirondacks, and Maine one of her
lakes and its surrounding woods.

The first stage of the journey to the Yosemite is
by steamboat to Stockton, up the Sacramento and
San Joaquin Rivers, one hundred and twenty-6"e
miles. Next was a stage ride of a day and a half
(one hundred miles) up the San Joaquin valley, over
now arid plains, waiting for irrigation to be produc-
tive, and turning next tc the east, among the foot-
hills of the Sierra Nevadas, along the valleys of the
tributaries of the San Joaquin, and into and through
Mariposa County, seventy square miles of which
constitute the celebrated Mariposa estate of Gen-
eral Fremont. Here, at a point near the village of
Mariposa, we came to the end of the stage road, and
entered upon forty miles of horseback riding, so
much farther into the bowels of the Sierras, in
order to reach the Happy Valley. Along a nar-
row trail, climbing up and down steep mountains,
by and through close defiles, through continuous
forests of majestic pines and firs, rich with yellow-
green mosses, up to six and eight thousand feet
above the sea level, we rode in single file, — a part

*!ii

232

ACROSS THE QDNTINENT.

Ill;"

of the way by a moonlight that lent indcscribal >-J
picturesqueness and fascination to forest and ravine,
besides frequent doubt as to the trail ;— every hour
a joy, every hour a fatigue, full of soreness and dirt
and merriment; eager for the end, but enjoying
every moment of the novel experience, every long
mile of the rare road.

Our party had swollen to seventeen, t'le largest
that had ever made the trip, and included five
ladies. We had Law Olmsted, creator of New
York Central Park, and organizer of the Sanitary
Commission; Mr. Ashburner of the Geological
Survey corps; Boston lawyers; San Francisco
journalists ; wit, grace, beauty. We exhausted all
the horses of the kingdom of Fremont, and created
famine in our path. Lodgings were abundant,
however, for whom house and tent did not hold, the
wide expanse of heaven safely covered, and the
hay-stack warmed. The out-door beds, indeed,
came to be at a premium ; for in the dry,-pure air
of this region, there is not only no harm, but actual
health in sleeping upon the ground either under
tents or wholly in the open air. The mountain
pastures,— scattered meadows rich at this season
with a vernal green,— furnish mutton sweeter and
richer than even English breeders or butchers can
give you; the forests yielded their deer, and the
rivers their trout to our appetites ; the valley has
its one vegetable garden,— so that, however our im-
mediate successors shall fare, we have had no com-
plaint to make of the commissary department.
Our companions from San Francisco proved rich

in song

overflow

lery; ar

"kept n

we serci

pined fc

soul ove

dayofju

helped '

from th(

possibl)!

and dirt

ceremoj

is 6ver,

and coi

see the

save in

of infin

The

valley i:

the ton

tcry of

it Yo-s(

Yo-sem

probabl

reigned

treat, a

the nat]

The fo(

eye of

wonder

the In(

THE NAME OF THE VALLEY.

233

indcscribal'-J
•st and ravine,

; — every hour
cness and dirt

but enjoying
cc, every long

en, t'le largest

included five

reator of New

f the Sanitary

the Geological

5an Francisco

3 exhausted all

nt, and created

rere abundant,

id not hold, the

^ered, and the

beds, indeed,

he dry,-pure air

tarm, but actual

d either under

The mountain

at this season

on sweeter and

ar butchers can

r deer, and the

the valley has

lowever our im-

ve had no com-

epartment.

SCO proved rich

in song and sentiment; good-nature flowed and
overflowed ; fatigue was forgotten in joke and rail-
lery ; and digestion aided by sturdy laughter. We
"kept marching through Georgia" with Sherman;
we serenaded the "sweet lady" till she must have
pined for ;i chance to sleep ; we put John Brown's
soul over its familiar road at least twice a day ; had "a
day of jubilo" with our colored brothers equally often;
helped " the turkey gobbler to yank the grasshopper
from the sweet potato vine " oftcner than he could
possibly have been hungry ; grew steadily barbaric
and dirty ; laughed at dignity ; and voted form and
ceremony a nuisance. But our week in the woods
is 6ver, and we turn our faces towards civilization
and conformity to-morrow. We shall be glad to
see the washerwoman, but we lament that no more,
save in memory, shall these eyes behold these scenes
of infinite beauty and sublimity.

The name that has attached to this beautiful
valley is both unique and euphonious. It rolls off
the tongue most liquidly when you get the mas-
tery of its pronunciation. Most strangers render
it Yo-se-mite, or Yo-sem-ite ; but the true style is
Yo-sem-i-te. It is Indian for Grizzly Bear, and
probably was also the name of a noted chief, who
reigned over the Indians in this, their favorite re-
treat, and from this chief comes the application of
the name to the locality and its marvelous scenery.
The foot of white man never trod its limits, — the
eye of white man never looked upon its sublime
wonders till 185 1, when he came here in pursuit of
the Indians, with whom the settlers were then in

234

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

war. The red man had boasted that their retreat
was secure; that they had one spot which their en-
emies couUl never penetrate, and here they would
gather in and enjoy their spoils unmolested. Hut
to the white man's revenge was now added the
stimulus of curiosity ; and hither he found his way,
and, coming to kill and exterminate, he has staid,
and will forever henceforth stay, to wonder and

worship.

There are but two or three settlers in the Valley.
One, Mr. Hutchings, keeps a hotel, and can accom-
modate a dozen to twenty people at once very com-
fortably, and is both enterprising and courteous.
There arc only two paths out of the Valley, one over
the mountain to the right, to Coulterville, and the
other in the opposite direction to Mariposa. Each
are simple trails for foot passengers and horses ;
and all baggage, all provisions, lumber, etc., have to
be packed in on the backs of mules and horses.
The mountains close in upon the river so nearly
below this spot, that there is no egress or ingress in
that way, except for foot travelers, End only with
diliiculty to them.

Part way in our horseback ride into the Valley,
we stopped for a day at a solitary ranch on the
' South Fork of the Merced, and had generous wel-
come from its owner, Mr. Galen Clark, an old and
intelligent pioneer in this region, and under his pi-
lotage saw the reservation of Big Trees near the
border line of Mariposa and Fresno counties. They
are but a few miles off the direct road to the Yo-
semite, and while of the same character, are alike

more n
than th
The la
describ
lie in :
the roil
groves
within

among

of sev

six hu

pine a

these '

der of

to six

to twc

hight.

side o:

name

to thi

below

those

diame

ferenc

hundi

NT.

hat their retreat

which their cn-

icre they would

nniolestccl. But

now added the

ic found his way,

itc, he has staid,

to wonder and

,'rs in the Valley,
and can accom-
t once very com-
<; and courteous,
i Valley, one over
ilterville, and the
Mariposa. Each
;crs and horses ;
nbci", etc., have to
lules and horses,
e river so nearly
jress or ingress in
:s, 2nd only with

z into the Valley,
iry ranch on tho
lad generous wel-
Clark, an old and
and under his pi-
g Trees near the
.0 counties. They
:t road to the Yo-
laracter, are alike

THE SEQUOIA GIGANTEA.

235

more numcrou-s and larger in individual specimens
than the grove of Big Trees in Calaveras County.
The latter are the ones first discovered and often
described, and .ire still those most visited ; but they
lie in an adjoining county, and farther away from
the route we took to the Yosemite. Other similar
groves to both these two have been discovered
within a year or two, and .some fifteen or twenty
are now known to exist among the forests on the
western slopes of the Sierra Nevadas in southern
California. They occur along at various points
through some hundred miles ; and it is quite likely
that many more still will be found in the same
range yet farther south.

The Big Trees we visited arc scattered in groups
among the pine and cedar forests through a space
of several miles. The collection numbers about
six hundred. East of the Rocky Mountains, their
pine and cedar companions, — so common all over
these hills and in these valleys, — would be the won-
der of the States for size and beauty ; for they grow
to six and eight and even ten feet in diameter, and
to two hundred and fifty and three hundred feet in
hight. But these mammoths sink to pigmies by the
side of the Sequoia Gigantea, which is the scientific
name applied to the Big Trees proper. They .swell
to thirty and forty feet in diameter, and rarely fall
below two hundred and fifty feet in hight. Among
those we examined are six each over thirty feet in
diameter, and from ninety to one hundred in circum-
ference ; fifty over sixteen feet in diameter, and two
hundred over twelve feet. "The Grizzly Giant,"

236

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

which is among the largest and most noteworthy,
runs up ninety feet with scarcely perceptible dimi-
nution of bulk, and then sends out a branch, itself
six feet in diameter.

But they are even more impressive for their beauty
than their bigness. The bark is an exquisitely light
and delicate cinnamon color, fluted up and down
the long, straight, slowly-tapering trunk, like Co-
rinthian columns in architecture; the top, resting
like a cap upon a high, bare mast, is a perfect cone ;
and the evergreen leaves wear a bright, light shade,
by which the tree can be distinguished from afar in
the forest. The wood is a deep, rich red in color,
and otherwise marks the similarity of the Big Trees
to the species that grows so abundantly on the coast
range of mountains through the Pacific States, and
known generally as the redwood. Their wood is,
however, of a finer grain than their smaller kindred,
and both that and the bark, the latter sometimes as
much as twenty inches thick, are so light and deli-
cate, that the winds and snows of the winter make
frequent .wrecks of the tops and upper branches.
Many of the largest of these trees are, therefore,
shorn of their upper works. One or two of the
largest in the grove we visited are wholly blown
down, and we rode on horseback through the trunk
of an old one, that had been burned out. Many
more of the noblest specimens are scarred by fires
that have been wantonly built about their trunks, or
swept through the forests by accident. The trunk
of one huge tree is burned into half a dozen little
apartments, making capital provision for a game of

hide a
nic of
Wil
the la
grouni
They
were ,
rose a
been i
Ninet
type c
life th(
the na
ica, of
pared,
tions 1
Yoseri
to the
stand
derful

NT.

lost noteworthy,
jerceptible dimi-
t a branch, itself

e for their beauty
1 exquisitely light
:d up and down
; trunk, like Co-
the top, resting
IS a perfect cone ;
•ight, light shade,
shed from afar in
ich red in color,
' of the Big Trees
intly on the coast
•acific States, and
Their wood is,
• smaller kindred,
tter sometimes as
so light and deli-
the winter make
upper branches.
:es are, therefore,
le or two of the
are wholly blown
:hrpugh the trunk
imed out. Many
e scarred by fires
ut their trunks, or
dent. The trunk
Kalf a dozen little
)ion for a game of

THE AGE OF THE BIG TREES.

237

hide and seek by children, or for dividing up a pic-
nic of older growths into sentimental couples.

Wild c Jculations have been made of the ages of
the larger of these trees ; but none now upon the
ground date back farther than the Christian Era,
They began with our Modern Civilization; they
were just sprouting when the Star of Bethlehem
rose and stood for a sign of its origin; they have
been ripening in beauty and power through these
Nineteen Centuries ; and they stand forth now, a
type of the Majesty and Grace of Him with whose
life they are coeval. Certainly they are chief among
the natural curiosities and marvels of western Amer-
ica, of the known world ; and though not to be roiii-
pared, in the impressions they make and the emo-
tions they arouse, to the great rock scenery of the
Yosemite, which inevitably carries the spectator up
to the Infinite Creator and Father of all, they do
stand for all that has been claimed for them in won-
derful greatness and vnaje«tic beauty.

f'M\

LETTER XXIII.

THE CHINESE: GRAND DINNER WITH THKM-

San Francisco, August i8.
I HAVE been waiting before writing of the
Chinese in these Pacific States, till my experi-
ence of them had culminated in the long-promised
grand dinner wi^h their leaders and aristocrats.
This came last night, and while I am full of the
subject,— shark's fins and resurrected fungus digest
slowly,— let me write of this unique and impor'
tant element in the population and civilization of
this region. There are no fewer than sixty tff
eighty thousand Chinamen here. They are scat
tered all over the States and Territories of the
Coast, and number from one-eighth to one-sixth of
the entire population. We began to see them at
Austin, in Nevada, and have found them every-
where since, in country and city, in the woods,
among the mines, north in the British dominions,
on the Coast, in the mountains,— everywhere that
work is to be done, and money gained by patient,
plodding industry. They have been coming over
from home since 1852, when was the largest emi-
gration, (twenty thousand.) A hundred thousand

'im

i^#&m

THE CHINESE HOUSE SERVANTS.

239

[I.

L WITH THKM.

.Ncisco, August 18.

writing of the
, till my experi-
he long-promised

and aristocrats.
I am full of the
:ted fungus digest
lique and impor'
nd civilization of
er than sixty t(r
They are scat
rerritories of the
th to one-sixth of
m to see them at
lund them every-
:y, in the woods,
British dominions,
—everywhere that
gained by patient,
been coming over
s the largest emi-
hundred thousand

in all have come, but thirty thousand ^to forty thou-
sand have gone back. None come really to stay ;
they do not identify themselves with the country ;
but to get work, to make money, and go back.
They never, or very rarely, bring their wives. The
Chinese women here are prostitutes, imported as
such by those who make a business of satisfying
the lust of men. Nor are their customers alto-
gether Chinese; base white men patronize their
wares as well. Some of these women are taken as
"secondary" wives by the Chinese residents, and
a sort of family life established ; but, as a general
rule, there are no families among them, and few
children.

The occupations of these people are various.
There is hardly anything that they cannot turn
their hands to,— the work of women as well as
men. They do the washing and ironing for the
whole population ; and sprinkle the clothes as they
iron them, by squirting water over them in a fine
spray from their mouths. Everywhere, in village
and town, you see rude signs, informing you that
See Hop or Ah Thing or Sam Sing or Wee Lung
or Cum Sing wash and iron. How Tie is a doctor,
and Hop Chang and Chi Lung keep stores. They
are good house servants ; cooks, table-waiters, and
nurses ; better, on the whole, than Iri.sh girls, and
as cheap,— fifteen to twenty-five dollars a month
and board. One element of their usefulness as
cooks is their genius for imitation; show them
once how to do a thing, and their education is per-
fected ; no repetition of the lesson is needed. But

240

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

1 . s\%

'ii

they seem to be more in use as house servants in
the country than the city ; they do not share the
passion of the Irish girls for herding together, and
appear to be content to be alone in a house, in a
neighborhood, or a town.

Many are vegetable gardeners, too. In this even
climate and with this productive sol!, their pains-
taking culture, much hoeing and constant watering,
makes little ground very fruitful, and they gather in
three, four and five crops a year. Their garden
patches, in the neighborhood of cities and villages,
are always distinguishable from the rougher and
more carelessly cultured grounds of their Saxon
rivals. The Pacific Railroad is being built by Chi-
nese labor; several thousand Chinamen are now
rapidly grading the track through the rocks and
sands of the Sierra Nevadas,— without them, in-
deed, this great work would have to wait for years,
or move on with slow, hesitating steps. They can,
by their steady industry, do nearly as much in a
day, even in this rough labor, as the average of
white men, and they cost only about half as much,
say thirty dollars a month against fifty dollars. Be-
sides, white labor is not to be had in the quantities
necessary for such a great job as this. Good farm
hands are the Chinese, also ; and in the simpler and
routine mechanic arts they have proven adepts ;—
there is hardly any branch of labor in which, under
proper tuition, they do not or cannot succeed most
admirably. The great success of the woolen man-
ufacture here is due to the admirable adaptation and
comparative cheapness of Chinese labor for the de-

tails. T

faithful,

over. /

and twe

selves, t

the mill

are the 1

such ec

what Yi

Thou

gold fie

miners,

or negi

their pr

washer

while tl

with tv

the pre

be the

ambitic

everyw

in the (

other, (

sharing

tocratl

Labi

need

capital

we she

corned

and th

we sei

)JT.

ouse servants in
not share the
ig together, and
in a house, in a

»o. In this even
sol!, their pains-
mstant watering,
id they gather in
. Their garden
ties and villages,
;he rougher and
of their Saxon
ing built by Chi-
inamen are now
b the rocks and
ithout them, in-
to wait for years,
teps. They can,
ly as much in a
i the average of
lut half as much,
fifty dollars. Be-
in the quantities
this. Good farm
the simpler and
proven adepts; —
>r in which, under
not succeed most
the woolen man-
)le adaptation and
J labor for the de-

CHEAPNESS OF CHINESE LABOR.

241

tails. They are quick to learn, quiet, cleanly and
faithful, and have no "off days," no sprees to get
over. As factory operatives they receive twenty
and twenty-five dollars a month, and board them-
selves, though quarters are provided for them on
the mill grounds. Fish, vegetables, rice and pork
are the main food, which is prepared and eaten with
such economy that they live for about one-third
what Yankee laborers can.

Thousands of the Chinese are gleaners in the
gold fields. They follow in crowds after the white
miners, working and washing over their deserted
or neglected sands, and thriving on results that
their predecessors would despise. A Chinese gold
washer is content with one to two dollars a day ;
while the white man starves or moves on disgusted
with twice that. A very considerable portion of
the present gold production of California must now
be the work of Chinese painstaking and moderate
ambition. The traveler meets these Chinese miners
everywhere on his road through the State ; at work
in the deserted ditches, or moving from one to an-
other, on foot with their packs, or often in the stage,
sharing the seats and paying the price of their aris-
tocratic Saxon rivals.

Labor, cheap labor, being the one great palpable
need of the Pacific States,-far more indeed than
capital the want and necessity of their prospenty,-
we shoul ' all say that these Chinese would be wel-
comed on every hand, their emigration encouraged,
and themselves protected by law. Instead of which,
we see them the victims of all sorts of prejudice

16
10

.ill

242

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

and injustice. Ever since they began to come here,
even now, it is a disputed question with the public,
whether they should not be forbidden our shores.
The do not ask or wish for citizenship ; they have
no ambition to become voters ; but they are even
denied protection in persons and property by the
law. Their testimony is inadmissible against the
white man ; and, as miners, they are subject to a
tax of four dollars a month, or nearly fifty dollars a
year, each, for the benefit of the County and State
treasuries. Thus ostracized and burdened by the
State, they, of course, have been the victims of
much meanness and cruelty from individuals. To
abuse and cheat a Chinaman ; to rob him ; to kick
and cuff him ; even to kill him, have been things
not only done with impunity by mean and wicked
men, but even with vain glory. Terrible are some
of the cases of robbery and wanton maiming and
murder reported from the mining districts. Had
"John,"— here and in China alike the English and
Americans nickname every Chinaman "John,"— a
good claim, original or improved, he was ordered to
" move on," — it belonged to somebody else. Had
he hoarded a pile, he was ordered to disgorge ; and,
if he resisted, he was killed. Worse crimes even
are known against them ; they have been wantonly
assaulted and shot down or stabbed by bad men,
as sportsmen would surprise and shoot their game
in the woods. There was no risk in such barbarity ;
if "John" survived to tell the tale, the- law would
not hear him or believe him. Nobody was so low,
so miserable, that he did not despise the Chinaman,

field, i

mon

about

place

demo

pie o

iNT.

;an to come here,
I with the pubUc,
Jden our shores,
niship ; they have
lut they are even
[ property by the
sible against the
are subject to a
irly fifty dollars a
bounty and State
burdened by the
n the victims of
. individuals. To
rob him ; to kick
have been things
mean and wicked
Terrible are some
ton maiming and
g districts. Had
e the English and
laman "John," — a
he was ordered to
lebody else. Had
[to disgorge; and,
/^orse crimes even
ive been wantonly
Dbed by bad men,
I shoot their game
in such barbarity ;
ale, the law would
fobody was so low,
pise the Chinaman,

OPPOSITION TO THE CHINESE.

243

and could not outrage him. Ross Browne has an
illustration of the status of poor "John," that is
quite to the point. A vagabond Indian comes upon
a solitary Chinaman, working over the sands of a
deserted gulch for gold. " Dish is my land,"— says
he,— "you pay me fifty dollar." The poor celestial
turns, deprecatingly, saying: "Melican man (Amer-
ican) been here, and took all,— no bit left." Indian,

irate and fierce,— "D Melican man,— you pay

me fifty dollar, or I killee you." .

Through a growing elevation of public opinion,
and a reactionary experience towards depression,
that calls for study of the future, the Califomians
are beginning to have a better appreciation of their
Chinese immigrants. The demand for them is in-
• creasing. The new State, to be built upon manu-
factures and agriculture, is seen to need their cheap
and reliable labor; and more pains will be taken to
attract them to the country. But even now, a man
who aspires to be a political leader, till lately a pos-
sible United States Senator, and the most widely
circulated daily paper of this city, pronounce against
th^ Chinese, and would drive them home. Their
opposition is based upon the prejudices and jeal-
ousy of ignorant white laborers,— the Irish partic-
ularly,— who regard the Chinese as rivals in their
field, and clothes itself in that cheap talk, so com-
mon among the bogus democracy of the East,
about this being a "white man's country," and no
place for Africans or Asiatics, But our national
democratic principle, of welcoming hither the peo-
ple of every country and clime, aside, the white

244

ACROSS THE CONThNENT.

iili

■U

man needs the negro and the Chinaman more than
they him ; the poclcef appeal will override the prej-
udices of his soul, — and we shall do a sort of rough
justice to both classes, because it will pay. The
political questions involved in the negro's presence,
and pressing so earnestly for solution, do not yet
arise with regard to the; Chinese,— perhaps will
never be presented. As I have said, the Chinese
are ambitious of no political rights, no citizenship,
— it is only as our merchants go to China that they
come here. Their great care, indeed, is to be bur-
ied at home ; they stipulate with anxiety '" r that ;
and the great bulk of all who die on these shores
are carried back for final interment.

There is no ready assimilation of the Chinese
with our habits and modes of thought and action.
Their simple, narrow though not dull minds h«ve
run too long in the old grooves to be easily turned
off. They look down even with contempt upon our
newer and rougher civilization, regarding us bar-
baric in fact, and calling us in their hearts, if not in
speech, " the foreign devils." And our conduct to-
wards them has inevitably intensified these f1!el-
ings,— it has driven them back upon their naturally
self-contained natures and habits. So they bring
here and retain all their home ways of living and
dressing, their old associations and religion. Their
streets and quarters in town and city are China
reproduced, unalleviated. Christian missionaries
make small inroads among them. There is an in-
telligent and faithful one here (Rev. Mr. Looniis,)
who has an attractive chapel and school, but his fol-

NT.

laman more than
)vcrride the prej-

a sort of rough
t will pay. The
negro's presence,
ition, do not yet
(e, — perhaps will
said, the Chinese
s, no citizenship,
) China that they
eed, is to be bur-
anxiety '" r that ;
J on these shores
it.

1 of the Chinese
aught and action.

dull minds h«.ve
» be easily turned
ontempt upon our
■egarding us bar-
ir hearts, if not in
id our conduct to-
isified these ffiel-
on their naturally
I. So they bring
^ays of living and
d religion. Their
id city are China
itian missionaries
. There is an in-
R.ev. Mr. Looniis,)
school, but his fol-

• CHINESE RELIGION AND VICES. 245

lowers are few. and not rapidly increasing. But he
and his predecessors and assistants have been and
are doing a good work in teaching the two diverse
races to better understand each other and in .bow-
ing them how they can be of value to one another.
They have been the constant and urgent advocates
of the personal rights of the Chinese.

The religion of these people is a cheap, showy
idolatry, with apparently nothing like fanaticism m
it, and not a very deep hold in itself on their na-
tures. "Josh" is their god or idol, and the "Josh
houses are small affairs, fitted up with images and
altars a good deal after tV stvle of cheap Catholic
churches in Europe. Th* -r v cle civilization im-
presses me as a low, d: -iplirec., perfected, sensu-
ous sensualism. Everything in their life and their
habits seems cut and dried like their food. There
IS no sign of that abandonment to an emotion, to
a passion, good or ^d. that marks the western
races Their great vice is gambling ; that is going
on constantly in their houses and shops ; and com-
mercial women and barbaric music minister to its
indulgence. Cheap lotteries are a common form
of this passion. Opium-smoking ranks next; and
this is believed to be indulged in more extensively
among them here than at home, since there is less
restraint from relatives and authorities, and the
means of procuring the article are greater. The
wildly brilliant eye, the thin, haggard face, and the
broken nervous system betray the victim to opium-
smoking; and all tense, all excited, staring m eye
and expression, he was almost a frightful object, as

246

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

TI]

'■'V JJ

we peered in through the smoke of his half-lighted
little room, and saw him lying on his mat in the
midst of his fatal enjoyment,

But as laborers in our manufactories and as ser-
vants in our houses, beside their constant contact
with our life and industry otherwise, these emi-
grants from the East cannot fail to get enlargement
of ideas, freedom and novelty of action, and famil-
iarity with and then preference for our higher civil-
ization. Slowly and hardly but still surely this
work must go on; and their constant going back
and forth between here and China must also trans-
plant new elements of thought and action into the
home circles. Thus it is that we may hope and
expect to reach this great people with the influ-
ences of our better and higher life. It is through
modification and revolution in materialities, in man-
ner of living, in manner of doing, that we shall
pave the way for our thought and our religion.
Our missionaries to the Five Points have learned
to attack first with soap and water and clean clothes.
The Chinese that come here are unconsciously be-
sieged at first with better food and more of it than
they have at home. The bath-house and^ the res-
taurant are the avant couriers of the Christian civ-
ilization.

The Chinese that come to these States are among
the best of the peasantry from the country about
Canton and Hong Kong. None of them are the
miserable coolies that have been imported by the
English to their Indian colonies as farm laborers.
They associate themselves here into companies,

ENT. •

)f his half-lighted
n his mat in the

tories and as ser-
constant contact
rwise, these emi-
get enlargement
action, and famil-
r our higher civil-
t still surely this
istant going back
a must also trans-
nd action into the
ve may hope and
le with the influ-
ife. It is through
iterialities, in man-
ing, that we shall
and our religion.
)ints have learned
r and clean clothes,
unconsciously he-
ld more of it than
louse and the res-
■ the Christian civ-

e States are among
the country about
le of them are the
n imported by the
s as farm laborers.
e into companies,

THE CHINESE VS. THE IRISH AND AFRICAN. 247

based upon the village or neighborhood from which
Ihcy come at home. These companies have head-
quarters in San Francisco; their presidents arc
men of high intelligence and character; and their
office is to afford a temporary refuge for all who be-
long to their^odies, to assist them to work, to pro-
tect them against wrong, and send the dead back
to their kindred at home. Beside these organiza-
tions, there are guilds or trade associations among
the Chinese engaged in different occupations. Thus
the laundry-men and the cigar-makers have organi-
zations, with heavy fees from the members, power
over the common interests of the business, and an
occasional festivity.

The impressions these people make upon the
American mind, after close observation of their
habits, are very mixed and contradictory. They
unite to many of the attainments and knowledge
of the highest civilization, in some of which they
are models for ourselves, many of the incidents and
most of the ignorance of a simple barbarism It
may yet prove that we have as much to learn from
them as they from us. Certainly here in this great
field, this western half of our continental Nation,
their diversified labor is a blessing and a neces-
sity It is all, perhaps more even, than the Irish
and the Africans have been and are to our east-
ern wealth and progress. At the first, at least,
they have greater adaptability and perfection than
"either of these classes of laborers, to whom we
are so intimately and sometimes painfully accus-
tomed.

,ii1 : 1r

ACROSS THE CONUNENT.

There arc quite ^ mimbcr of heavy mercantile
houses here in the huiuls of the Chinese. The
managers are intelUgent, superior men. Tiieir busi-
ness is in suppUes for their countrymen and in teas
and silks and curiosities for the Americans. They
import by the hundreds of thousands, even millions,
yearly ; and their rei)Utation for fair and honest deal-
ing is above that of the American merchants gen-
erally. These are the men, with the presidents of
the six companies, into which the whole Chinese
population is organized, as I have described, with
whom Mr. Colfa.x and his friends dined last night.
There were formalities and negotiations enough in
the preliminary arrangements of the entertainment
to have sufficed for a pacification of Kentucky poli-
tics, or the making of a new map of Europe ; but
when these were finally adjusted, questions of pre-
cedence among the Chinese settled, and a proper
choice made among the many Americans who were
eager to be bidden to the feast, all went as smooth
as a town school examination that the teacher has
been drilling for a month previous.

The party numbered from fifty to sixty, half Chi-
nese, half white folks. The dinner was given in
the second story of a Chinese restaurant, in a lead-
mg street of the city. Our hosts were fine-looking
men, with impressive manners. While their race
generally seems not more than two-thirds the size
of our American men, these were nearly if not quite
as tall and stout as their guests. Their eyes and
their faces beamed with intelligence, and they were
quick to perceive everything, and alert and an fait

My nar
My fall
He smi
tio fasli

My no
I.ittee
Thatn
No go
That 1(
Chop-(
That r
My on

Ili-yal
Too pi
No cai
So fas
He
My kr
Catch

iNT.

heavy mercantile
e Chinese. The
nen. Tiieir busi-
•ymen and in teas
mericans. They
ids, even milUons,
r and honest deal-
\ merchants gen-
the presidents of

10 whole Chinese
c described, with
dined last night.

iations enough in
;he entertainment
of Kentucky poli-
p of Europe ; but
questions of pre-
led, and a proper
lericans who were

11 went as smooth
,t the teacher has
s.

to sixty, half Chi-
ner was given in
taurant, in a lead-
were fine-looking
While their race
wo-thirds the size
nearly if not quite
Their eyes and
ice, and they were
1 alert and au fait

THE CHINESE "PIGEON-ENGLISH.

249

in all courtesies and politeness. An interpreter was
present for the heavy talking ; but most of our Chi-
nese entertainers spoke a little linglish, and we
got on well enough so far as that was concerned ;
though handshaking and bowing and scraping and a
general flexibility of countenance, bodies and limbs
had a very large share of the conversation to i)cr-
form. Neither here nor in China is it common for
the Knglish and Americans to learn the Chinese
language. The Chinese can and do more readily
acquire ours, sufficiently at least for all business in-
tercourse. Their broken or "pigeon" English, as
it is called, is often very grotesque, and always very
simple. Here is a specimen— a "pigeon-English"
rendering of " My name is Nerval," etc. : —

My namce being Norval topside that Glampian Hillee,
My father you sabcc my father, makee pay chow-chow he sheep.
He smallo hcartce man, too muchee take care that dolla, gallo?
So fashion he wantchee keep my, counta one piece chilo stope he

own side.
My no wantchee long that largee mandoH, go Icnockee alia man ;
I.ittee turn Josa pay my what thing my father no like pay
That mourn last nightee get up loune, alia same my hat.
No go full up, no got square ; that plenty piece
That lobbie man, too muchee qui-si, alia same that tiger.
Chop-chop come down that hillee, catchie that sheep long that cow,
That man, custom take care, too muchie quick lun away.
My one piecie owne spee eye, look see that ladlone man what side

he walkee,
Ili-yah I No good chancie, findie he, lun catchie my flew i
Too piecie loon choon lun catchie that lobbie man ! he
No can walkee welly quick, he pocket too much full up.
So fashion knockee he largee.

He head m. n no got shutte far
My knockie he head, Hi-yah ! my No. I strong man,
Catchie he jacket, long he toousa, galo 1 You likee look see ?
II*

250

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

:\ ;i.

My no likee takee care that sheep, so fashion my hear /ou got

fightee this side.
My takee one servant, come your country, come helpic you,
He heart all same cow, too muchie fear lun away.
Masquie, Joss take care pay my come you house.

We were seated for the dinner around little round
tables, six to nine at the table, and hosts and guests
evenly mixed. There was a profusion of elegant
China dishes on each table ; each guest had two or
three piates and saucers, all delicate and small.
Choice sauces, pickles, sweetmeats and nuts were
plentifully scattered about. Each guest had a sau-
cer of flowers, a China spoon or bowl with a handle,
and a pair of chop-sticks, little round and smooth
ivory sticks about six inches long. Chi Sing-Tong,
President of the San Yup Company, presided at Mr.
Colfax's table.

Now the meal began. It consisted of three dif-
ferent courses, or dinners rather, between which was
a recess of half an hour, when we retired to an ante-
room, smoked and talked, and listened to the simple,
rough, barbaric music from coarse guitar, viol drum,
and violin, and meanwhile the tables were reset and
new food provided.

Each course or dinner comprised a dozen to
twenty different dishes, served generally one at a
time, though sometimes two were brought on at
once. There were no joints, nothing to be carved.
Every article of food was brought on in quart bowls,
in a sort of hash fo-.m. We dove into it with our
chop-sticks, which, well handled, took up about a
mouthful, and, transferring this to our plates, worked

the cl

moutl

taste

relish

hundi

petite

sticks

could

vided

also I

a bit

same

into 1

alwai

first >

fins i

soup

wate

soup

ban a

seen

in s(

penc

men

agl

sedt

eyei

arti(

real

and

hire

!NT.

lion my hear /ou got

me helpie you,

.way.

>use.

round little round

hosts and guests

fusion of elegant

guest had two or

licate and small.

ts and nuts were

I guest had a sau-

jwl with a handle,

ound and smooth

Chi Sing-Tong,

ly, presided at Mr.

listed of three dif-
letween which was
retired to an ante-
aned to the simple,
; guitar, viol drum,
)les were reset and

)rised a dozen to
generally one at a
2re brought on at
:hing to be carved.
: on in quart bowls,
ve into it with our
[, took up about a
) our plates, worked

THE CHOP-STICKS, AND THE FOOD. 2$ I

the chop-sticks again to get it or parts of it to our
mouths No one seemed to take more than a single
taste or mouthful of each dish ; so that, even if one
relished the food, it would need something Iikc a
hundred different dishes to satisfy an ordinary ap-
petite. Some of us took very readily to the chop-
sticks; others did not,-perhaps were glad they
could not; and for these a Yankee fork was pro-
vided, and our Chinese neighbors at the table were
also prompt to offer their own chop-sticks to place
a bit of each dish upon our plates. But as these
same chop-sticks were also used to convey food
into the mouths of the Chinese, the service did not
always add to the relish of the food.

These were the principal dishes served for the
first courle, and in the order named : Fried shark s
fins and grated ham, stewed pigeon with bamboo
soup, fish sinews with ham, stewed chicken with
water-cress, sea-weed, stewed ducks and, bamboo
soup, sponge cake, omelet cake, flower cake and
banana fritters, bird-nest soup, tea. The meats
seemed all alike; they had been dried or preserved
In some way; were cut up into mouthfuls, and de-
pended for all savoriness upon their accompani-
ments The sea-weed, shark's fins and the like had
a glutinous sort of taste; not repulsive, nor very
seductive. The sweets were very delicate, but like
everything else had a very artificial flavor; every
article, indeed, seemed to have had its original and
real taste and strength dried or cooked out of it,
and a common Chinese flavor put into it. The
bird-nest soup looked and tasted somewhat as a

252

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

very delicate vermicelli soup does. The tea was
delicious,— it was served without milk or sugar, did
not need any such amelioration, and was very re-
freshing. Evidently it was made from the most
delicate leaves or flowers of the tea plant, and had
escaped all vulgar steeping or boiling.
■ During the first recess, the presidents of the com-
panies, — the chief entertainers,— took their leave,
and the merchants assumed the post of leading
hosts ; such being the fashion of the people. The
second dinner opened with cold tea, and a white,
rose-scented liquor, very strong, and served in tiny
cups, and went on with lichens and a fungus-like
moss, more shark's fins, stewed chestnuts and chick-
ens, Chinese oysters, yellow and resurrected from
the dried stage, more fungus stewed, a stew of flour
and white nuts, stewed mutton, roast ducks, rice
soup, rice and ducks' eggs and pickled cucumbers,
ham and chicken soup. Between the second and
third parts, there was an exchange of compliment-
ary speeches by the head Chinaman and Mr. Col-
fax, at which the interpreter had to officiate. The
third and last course consisted of a great variety of
fresh fruits ; and the unique entertainment ended
about eleven o'clock, after a sitting of full five
hours. The American resident guests ^urnished
champagne and claret, and our Chinese nosts, in-
variably at the entrance and departure of earh disji,
invited us, with a gracious bow, to a sip thtieof, in
the which they all faithfully joined themselves.

The dinner was unquestionably a most magnifi-
cent one after the Chinese standard; the dishes

were n

thing '

curiou:

rarest

fax on

satisfa

not se

princi]

do as

^eriati

sonal

to be

the tz

unive

tite;

incap

with ;

when

The I

touch

door

bring

violai

lice '

polit(

the (

neig]

Afri

me c

few

door

were

I MM,

mm-

|NT.

The tea was
ilk or sugar, did
lid was very re-
from the most
[a plant, and had

PS-

ents of the corn-
took their leave,
post of leading
he people. The
ca, and a white,
id served in tiny
nd a fungus-like
stnuts and chick-
resurrected from
:d, a stew of flour
'oast ducks, rice
:kled cucumbers,
I the second and
e of compliment-
lan and Mr. Col-

officiate. The

1 great variety of
rtainment ended
ting of full five
guests ^urnished
hinese nosts, in-
ture of each dish,

a sip thticof, in
themselves,
a most magnifi-
ard; the dishes

A RESCUE BY THE POLICE.

'S3

were many of them rare and expensive ; and every-
thing was served in elegance and taste. It was a
curious and interesting expetience, and one of the
rarest of the many courtesies extended to Mr. Col-
fax on this coast. But as to any real gastronomic
satisfaction to be derived from it, I certainly "did
not see it," Governor Bross's fidelity to the great
principle of "when you are among the Romans to
do as the Romans do," led him to take the meal
^eriatim, and eat of everything ; but my own per-
sonal experience is perhaps the best commentary
to be made upon the meal, as a meal. I went to
the table weak and hungry ; but I found the one
universal odor and flavor soon destroyed all appe-
tite ; and I fell back resignedly on a constitutional
incapacity to use the chop-sticks, and was sitting
with a grim politeness through dinner number two,
when there came an angel in disguise to my relief.
The urbane chief of police of the city appeared and
touched my shoulder : " There is a gentleman at the
door who wishes to see you, and would have you
bring your hat and coat." There were visions of
violated city ordinances and "assisting" at the po-
lice court next morning. I thought, too, what a
polite way this man has of arresting a stranger to
the city. But, bowing my excuses to my pig-tail
neighbor, I went joyfully to the unknown tribunal.
A friend, a leading banker, who had sat opposite to
me during the evening, and had been called out a
few moments before, welcomed n^e at the street

door with : " B , I knew you were suffering, and

were hungry — let us go and get something to eat —

254

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

a good square meal ! " So we crossed to an Ameri-
can restaurant ; the lost appetite came back ; and
mutton chops, squabs, fried potatoes and a bottle
of champagne soon restored me. My friend in-
sisted that the second course of the Chinese dinner
was only tne first warmed over, and that that was
the object of the recess. However that might be,—
this is how I went to the grand Chinese dinner, and
went out, when it was two-thirds over, and "got
something to eat." •

THE

agric
ular;
weal
org!
dant

ENT.

ssed to an Ameri-

came back; and

toes and a bottle

My friend in-

le Chinese dinner

md that that was

r that might be,~-

linese dinner, and

Is over, and "got

•

LETTER XXIV. ^

THE GREAT THEME: THE PACIFIC RAILROAD.

San Francisco, August 20.
To feel the importance of the Pacific Railroad,
to measure the urgency of its early completion, to
become impatient with government and contractor
at every delay in the work, you must come across
the Plains and the Mountains to the Pacific Loast.
Then you will see half a Continent waitmg for its
vivifying influences. You will witness a 4D0undless
agriculture, fickle and hesitating for lack of the reg-
ukr markets this would give. You will find mineral
wealth, immeasurable, locked up, wastefully worked,
or gambled away, until this shall open to it abun-
dant labor, cheap capital, wood, water, science, ready ^
oversight, steadiness of production,-ever- thing
that shall make mining a certainty and not a
chance You will find the world's commerr.. vi.a
India and China eagerly awaiting its oppo . .ties^
You will see an illimitable field for mamu ctures
unimproved for want of its stimulus and it.^ -.^van-
taoes You will feel h'-arts breaking, see moxv ..
struggling slowly upwaid against odds, knr v thai
religion languishes ; feel, see and know that all the.

t* ';

'AlI^

I 4

■ If

256

/.CROSS THE CONTINENT.

sweetest and finest influences and elements of so-
ciety and Christian civilization hunger and suffer
for the lack of this quick contact with the Parent
and Fountain of all our national life.

It is touching to remember that between Plains
and Pacific, in country and on coast, on the Colum-
bia, on the Colorado, through all our long journey,
the first question asked of us by every man and wo-
man we have met, — whether rich or poor, high or
humble, — has been, " When do you think the Pacific
Railroad will be done.^" or, "Why don't or won't
the government, now the war is over, put the sol-
diers to building this road .' " — and their parting ap-
peal and injunction, as well, "Do build this Pacific
Road for us as soon as possible, — we wait, every-
thing waits for that." Tender-eyed women, hard-
fisted men, — ^pioneers, or missionaries, the martyrs
and the successful, — all alike feel and speak this sen-
.timeat. It is the hunger, the prayer, the hope of
all these people. Hunger and prayer and hope for
" Home," and what home can bring them, in cheap
and ready passage to and from, of reunion with par-
ent and brother and sister and friend, of sight of
old valley and mountain and wood, of social influ.
ence, of esthetic elevation, of worldly stimulus anci
prosperity. "Home," they all here call the East
It is a touching and pathetic, though almost un^
conscious, tribute. Such an one "is going home
next spring;" " I hope to go home another year;"
"When I was home last;" "I have never been
home since I came out ;" "I am afraid I shall never
go home again;" — these and kindred phrases are

ENT.

d elements of so-
mnger nnd suffer
: with the Parent
ife.

it between Plains
ist, on the Colum-
our long journey,
very man and wo-
i or poor, high or
1 think the Pacific
ly do n't or wo n't
over, put the sol-
i their parting ap-
build this Pacific
— we wait, every-
^ed women, hard-
aries, the martyrs
,nd speak this sen-
ayer, the hope of
ayer and hope for
ng them, in cheap
reunion with par-
friend, of sight of
3d, of social influ.
rldly stimulus and
ere call the East
hough almost un-
e "is going home
ae another year;"
have never been
fraid I shall never
ndred phrases are

THE nation's need.

257

the current forms of speech. Home is not here,
but there. The thought of home is ever rolled,
like a sweet morsel, under the tongues of their

'° n'ere is large appeal both to the sympathy and
foresight of the eastern States. Here is present
bond of union and means for perpetuating it. lo
build the railroad, and freshen recollection and re-
new association of the original emigrants, and to
bind by travel and contact the children here with
the homes and lives and loves of their parents there :
this is the cheapest, surest and sweetest way to pre-
serve our nationality, and continue the Republic a
unit from ocean to ocean. A sad and severe trial will
ensue to the Union if a generation grows up here,
that "knows not Joseph." The centrifugal forces
will ever be in hot action between the far-separated
eastern and western sections of the Nation.- First
among the centripetal powers is the Pacific Rail-
road, and every year of its delay increases tenfold
its burden; every year's postponement weakens in
equal degree the influences here by which it shall

operate. .

What is doing to supply this great want ot Pa-
cific progress and civilization and national unity?
What are the possibilities and probabilities of the
great continental railway? are what you will wish
to know from me. Our journey has lain along its
most natural commercial route ; we started from its
eastern terminus on the Missouri border; we kept
in the main line -of population and travel, which it
is desirable for it to follow; we finished our ride

258

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

upon its beginnings at this end ; and we have every-
where had the subject forced upon our thought, and
made it constant study. Many of the obstacles to
the great work grew feeble in travel over its line.
Want of timber, of water, of coal for fuel- the
steep grades and high ascents of the two great
continental ranges of mountains to be crossed, the
Rocky and the Sierras ; and the snows they will
accumulate upon the track in the winter months,—
these are the suggested and apparent difficulties to
the building and operating of the Pacific Railroad.
There is plenty of good timber in the mountains ;
• and the soft cotton-wccd of the Plains can be kyan-
ized (hardened by a chemical process), so as to make
sound sleepers and ties. There are sections of
many miles, even perhaps of two hundred, over
which the timber will have to be hauled ; but the
road itself can do this as it progresses,— taking
along over the track built to-day the timber and
rails for that to be built to-morrow. As to water,
artesian wells are sure to find it in the vacant desert
stretches, which are neither so long nor so barren
of possible water as has been sipposed.

The fuel question is perhap? more difficult to
solve as yet.* The Sierras wiU furnish wood in
abundance, and cheaply, for all the western end;
we know there is coal in the Rocky Mountains;
and we were told almost everywhere over the en-
tire line that it had been, or could undoubtedly be
found,— in Kansas, on the Plains, among the hills
of the deserts. But suppose the supplies of food
for steam have to be carried over a few hundred

ENT.

nd we have every-
1 our thought, and
f the obstacles to
avel over its line.
;oal for fuel • the
of the two great
to be crossed, the
J snows they will
winter months, —
rent difficulties to
J Pacific Railroad,
in the mountains;
lains can be kyan-
:ess), so as to make
e are sections of
wo hundred, over
e hauled; but the
rogresses, — taking
ly the timber and
row. As to water,
1 the vacant desert
ong nor so barren
pposed.

5 more difficult to
i furnish wood in
the western end;
Rocky Mountains;
where over the en-
ild undoubtedly be
ns, among the hills
le supplies of food
ver a few hundred

ROUTES OVER THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 259

miles of the road, east and west from the Sierras
and the Rocky Mountains; that is not so hard a
matter,— certainly nothing to daunt or hesitate the
enterprise. We shall soon learn, tpo, to make
steam from petroleum; and that is easily trans-
ported for long distances; besides which, prospect-
ors are finding it everywhere from Missouri to Pa-
cific. Build the road, and the intermediate country
will speedily find the means for running it.

Now as to difficulties of construction, heavy
grades and high mountains, and the winter snows
as obstacles to continuous use.

The first third of the line, from the Missouri
River to the Rocky Mountains, is mere baby-work.
Three hundred men will grade it as fast as the iron
can be laid. It is a level, natural roadway, with
very little bridging, and no want of water. It is a
shame all this section is not finished and running
already. The first of January, 1867, ought now to
be the limit for its completion. From here to Salt
Lake, over the Rocky Mountains, there are appar-
ently'no greater obstacles to be overcome than your
Western Road from Springfield to Albany, the Erie
and the Pennsylvania Central have triumphantly
and profitably surmounted. There are various con-
testing routes ; northerly by the North Platte and
the South Pass; by the South Platte and Bndgers
Pass, which is the route we traveled m the stage,—
or more direct still, from Denver through the pres-
ent gold mining region of Colorado by Clear Creek
and over the Berthoud Pass ; or again by a kindred
route to the last, up Boulder Creek and over Boul-

26o

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

r^m

der Pass, both these last two entering the " Middle
Park" of the Mountains, and through that to the
head waters of the Salt Lake Basin. The Herthouci
and BntiMri Pr s routes would probably involve
higher gu>.< vnti more rock cutting, and in winter
deeper snc .nt they would pass through a richer
country, avmd the deserts of the north, and save at
least one hundred miles of distance. A new road
for the overland stages is this very season being
cut through the Berthoud Pass route by the help
of United States soldiers from Utah ; and the stage
line is expected to be transferred to it next spring.
But by the Bridger or South Pass routes, the rail-
road can surmount the eastern slope of the Rocky
Mountains with the greatest ease. Our stage teams
trotted up the hardly perceptible grades by the
Bridger route without any effort. Coming down^
into Salt Lake Valley, there would be rougher
work; but there are several considerable streams
along whose banks the track could be brought, I
am sure, with no greater labor or expense than
has been incurred in a dozen cases by our eastern
railroads:

From Salt Lake to the Sierra Nevadas are two
routes; southerly through the center of Nevada,
and striking Austin and Virginia City, the centers
of the silver mining region,— which is the present
stage and telegraph route,— and northerly by the
Humboldt River. The former would pass more
directly through the chief present and prospective
populations; but it would encounter a dozen or
fifteen ranges of hills to be crossed, and find little

wood a
be mor

better (

It is ge

way a<

always

it, Vir

branch

neighb

Now

toughc

rcachii

covere

arc m:

by the

and ai

energy

Railro

get to

can a:

caster

fornia,

its de

solve

nenta!

teemi]

work

profes

Coast

Lei

end tl

Coi

ENT.

jriiig the " Middle
rough that to the
1, The Bcrthoud

probably involve
ing, and in winter
is through a richer
north, and save at
nee. A new road
/cry season being
route by the help
tah ; and the stage

to it next spring,
ss routes, the rail-
lope of the Rocky
Our stage teams
)le grades by the
t. Coming down^
would be rougher
risiderable streams
)uld be brought, I
■ or expense than
ses by our eastern

I Nevadas are two
center of Nevada,
ia City, the centers
hich is the present
d northerly by the
would pass more
;nt and prospective
ounter a dozen or
3sed, and find little

OVER THE SIERRAS.

261

wood and scant water. The Humboldt route would
be more cheaply built, and goes through a naturally
better country as to wood, water and fertility of soil.
Il is generally conceded to be the true natural road-
way across the Continent. The emigration has
always taken it. If the railroad is built through
it, Virginia City and Austin will be reached by
branches dropping down to them through their
neighboring valleys.

Now we reach the California border, and the
toughest part of the work of the railroad,— the high-
reaching, far- spreading, rock -fastened, and sno\-
covercd Sifrra Nevadas. But the difficulties here
are mitigated by plenty of water and timber, and
by the near presence of an energetic population,
and are already being practically overcome by the
energy and perseverance of the California Pacific
Railroad organization. I only wish the East would
get to Salt Lake with their rail so soon as the West
can and will with theirs. It is not gratifying to
eastern pride, indeed, to see how much more Cali-
fornia, with its scant capital, its scafce labor, and
its depressed industry and interests, is doing to
solve this great practical problem of the conti-
nental railway, than your abounding wealth and
teeming populations of the East, with a great net-
work of railroads from the Atlantic, all needing and
professing to seek an outlet west to the Pacific

Coast.
Let me state the condition of the work on each

end the line.
Congress has given princely bounties to the en-

36J

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

¥i

)i-^l

'orprise, all that could be expected, everything that
was asked. Government bonds arc loaned to it
to the amount of sLxteen thousand dollars a mile
through the plains and forty-eight thousand dollars
a mile in the mountains ; besides which half of all
the land each side of the road for twei.ty miles
deep is donated outright to the companies doing
the work. The Union Pacific Railroad company is
recognized at the East, and the Central Pacific Rail-
r ..a.i company here, as entitled to this bounty, and
ttie respectively authorized to construct the road
from their starting points until they meet. The
comnanies are further authorized to issue their own
bon.'is to an equal amount to those granted by the
government, and secure them by a first mortgage;
the government loan taking the second place in

security.

The business of supplying the populations of Col-
orado, Utah and Montana,— at least one hundred
and fifty thousand persons,— invites the speedy con-
struction of the road from the East. This busi-
ness for 1 864? is estimated at forty million pounds,
and for 1865 at two hundred millions, and employed
last year nine thousand wagons, fifty thousand cat-
tle sixteen thousand horses and mules and ten thou-
sand men as drivers, laborers and guards; and the
sum paid for freight in the former year is estimated
by one authority at enough to build the railroad
the entire distance at a cost of forty-eight thousand
dollars the mile! And during the months of May
and June, this year, counting both the emigration
and the freight trains, there passed west over the

JENT.

;d, everything that
i are loaned to it
and dollars a mile
It thousand dollars
s which half of all
. for twciity miles
• companies doing
:ailroad company is
lentral Pacific Rail-
to this bounty, and
construct the road
[ they meet. The
d to issue their own
ose granted by the
ly a first mortgage ;
le second place in

; populations of Col-
least one hundred
dtes the speedy con-
; East. This busi-
arty million pounds,
Uions, and employed
5, fifty thousand cat-
, mules and ten thou-
ind guards ; and the
ler year is estimated
build the railroad
forty-eight thousand
the months of May
both the emigration
>asscd west over the

IMAGE EVALUATION
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Sciences

Corporation

23 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, N.Y. USttO

(716) 873-4503

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CIHM/ICMH

Microfiche

Series.

CIHM/ICMH
Collection de
microfiches.

Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions / Institut Canadian de microreproductions historiques

THE ROAD OVER THE PLAINS.

263

Plains full ten thousand teams and fifty thousand
to sixty thousand head of stock, according to data
furnished from Fort Laramie and the junction of
the overland routes on the Platte River. The ship-
ment of supplies for the United States troops on
the Plains and in the Mountains this season is alone
over eleven million pounds.

All these statistics may not be perfectly accurate ;
but they have a substantial basis of fact, and with
such generous gifts as the government makes, and
with such large railway interests behind to be ben-
efited by farther extension of railway lines to the
west, they would seem to justify and to demand a
rapid construction of the road out from the Mis-
souri River, especially when for the first five hun-
dred to six hundred miles of that road, there is
scarcely more required than to scrape a place in
the soft soil for sleepers and ties and iron. And
yet, though three to four years have passed since
the company accepted the bargain of the govern-
ment and assumed its responsibilities, not a mile
of the main road is running from the Missouri west.
The lower branch from Kansas City is open to
Lawrence, forty miles, and graded to Topeka, sixty
miles; but from Atchison and Omaha there is no
iron down, and only small sections graded or half
graded.

Is it said that by the government flooding the
markets with better classes of its securities, there
was no sale for the bonds allotted for this work, and
so no means for its construction ? The reply :s that
no set of men should step forward to accept this

264 ACROSS THK CONTINENT.

largess and undertake this enterprise, holding such
sure profits in its future, that have not at least a
million or two of their own to make a beginning
with. Has the war absorbed all labor and capital
during these years.? Other railroads have been
built meantime, and labor was cheaper on the Plains
than in California. Beside, here are six months
since the war ended, and the end witnesses no
marked progress, no larger activity, than the begin-
ning.

I know nothing of the men who form the Pacific
Railroad Company of the East; I suspect their
names are more familiar to Wall street than to the
West or the railroad world ; but I do know that all
I could see or hear of them and their work, along
the route of the continental railway, did not indi-
cate either the earnestness or the power that should
accompany their position, their responsibilities and
their opportunities. After leaving the Missouri
River, indeed, they offered no sign of life except in
a single small party of engineers in Salt Lake City,
who were on a straggling hunt for the best route
through the Rocky Mountains, but who seemed to
have no proper leadership, and no clear purpose,
and in fact confessed that the company had no chief
engineer worthy the name or position.

Here in California, however, there is more life
and progress. Energy and capital are not perhaps
the best directed possible ; there has been and still
is somewhat of controversy and waste of power as
to the true route; but there is earnestness and
movement of the right sort, and the track is fast

ascci
has I
trad(
mucl
lay in
Mou
amp]
and
in tl
from
road
the :
the :
so:n(
agaii
side,
Sacr
one
theii
for 1
thei
T
road
whic
The
fort)
ville
taini
and
imm
' doll:
tran

riNENT.

jrprise, holding such
have not at least a
make a beginning
all labor and capital
railroads have been
;heapcr on the Plains
lere are six months
e end witnesses no
ivity, than the begin-

who form the Pacific
ist; I suspect their
all street than to the
ut I do know that all
nd their work, along
railway, did not indi-
;he power that should
ir responsibilities and
caving the Missouri
sign of life except in
^rs in Salt Lake City,
nt for the best route
s, but who seemed to
id no clear purpose,
company had no chief
position.

ir, there is more life
ipital are not perhaps
ere has been and still
nd waste of power as
e is earnestness and
and the track is fast

THE ROAD OUT FROM CALIFORNIA.

265

ascending the Sierras on its progress eastward. It
has no immediate way business to tempt it but the
trade of Nevada with thirty thousand population, —
much less, therefore, than that which invites the
laying of the rails across the prairies to the Rocky
Mountains, — but this business has constructed and
amply paid for two fine toll-roads over the Sierras,
and was, until a few days ago, building two railroads
in their tracks. There being free water carriage
from San Francisco to Sacramento, these rival
roads (both carriage and rail), have their base at
the latter point, and branch off right and left into
the mountains, and cross the summit of the latter
some thirty or forty miles apart, coming together
again at a common point in Nevada on the other
side, namely, Virginia City. The distance between
Sacramento and Virginia City is about the same,
one J undred and sixty miles, by each road ; and
their rivalry has given excellent accommodations
for travel anc! traffic, and helped to push forward
the railroad tracks on both lines.

The original and heretofore most popular wagon
road was that by Placerville and Lake Tahoe, over
which we cAme into the State, as ab ^■'dy described.
The railway track on its line is now laid about
forty miles from Sacramento or nearly to Placer-
ville, which is among the foot-hills of the moun-
tains. During the "flush" times of Nevada, 1862
and 1863, the business done over this line was
immense ; in the latter year about twelve millions
dollars were paid for freights alone,— the cost of
transportation being from five t<- ten cents a

266

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

pound,— and the tolls on teams, received by the
constructors of the wagon road, amounted to six
hundred thousand dollars. The charge for a smglc
team is about thirty dollars; and in 1864, when the
business was much less than before, no less than
seven thousand teams passed over this Placerville
route; carrying all kinds of food and merchandise
and machinery over into Nevada, but coming back

nearly empty.

As showing how great and wasteful was and still
is the cost of doing business in Nevada under such
circumstances, it has been carefully estimated that
the famous Gould & Curry silver mine at V rcmia
City would have saved two millions dollars lA ex-
penses in a single year, had a railroad been built
and running over the mountains. The production
of the mine that year was four millions and a halt
of dollars, but its expenses absorbed three millions
and a half, leaving only one million profit to stock-
holders, against three millions, probably, had there
been ready and cheap communication with the San
Francisco markets.

The staging and freighting over these mountain
toll roads are performed in the most perfect style,
however. The freight wagons are bigger and
stronger than anything ever seen in the East ; gen-
erally a smaller one is attached as a tender to the
main wagon; ten to twelve large and strong mules
or horses, in fine condition, constitute the usual
team; and the load ranges from five to ten tons.
To each mule in the best teams a large bell is at-
tached, and they are trained to keep step to their

stai

ITINENT.

ims, received by the
oad, amounted to six
'he charge for a single
and in 1864, when tlic
1 before, no less than
1 over this Placerville
food and merchandise
/ada, but coming back

wasteful was and still
in Nevada under such
arefuUy estimated that
silver mine at V''-£rmia
millions dollars itt ex-
l a railroad been built
:ains. The production
3ur millions and a half
absorbed three millions
million profit to stock-
ns, probably, had there
lunication witb the San

ig over these mountain
the most perfect style,
igons are bigger and
r seen in the East ; gen-
ched as a tender to the
large and strong mules
in, constitute the usual
3 from five to ten tons,
teams a large bell is at-
;d to keep step to their

TRAVEL AND TRAFFIC OVER THE SIERRAS. 26/

music, and so pull and move uniformly. Frequently
the road will be filled with these teams for a quarter
and a half mile, and the turning out for them is the
only interruption to the steady trot or the grand
gallop of the six-horse stage teams that, attached to
the best of Concord coaches, usually loaded with
passengers, go half-flying over these well-graded
mountain roads, three to four each way daily. The
stage horses are sleek and fat, gay as larks, changed
every ten miles, affd do their work as if they really
loved it. The Placerville road is watered through-
out nearly its whole line by sprinkling carts, in the
same way as the streets of a city are wet in the dry
summer season ; and luxurious as this seems and is,
— for the dust is otherwise most fearful, — it is found
to be the cheapest way of keeping the road itself in
good repair. When dry, the heavy teams cut up
the track most terribly.

But these horses are running away with the loco-
motive, \Auch is my main theme to-day. The rival
of the Placerville route, though opened since, has
won the title and the government bounty of the
Pacific Railroad, and has this season pushed its iron
track ahead of the former, and so henceforth must
have every advantage for both traffic and travel.
Indeed, within a few days, its friends have bought
a controlling interest in the railway section of the
Placerville route, and will probably put a veto upon
the construction of the latter beyond that town. It
is called the Dutch Flat and Donner Lake route, as
well as the Central Pacific Railroad, and lies to the
north of the other. Its line was selected by the late

\>M

268

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

Mr. T. D. Judah, who has left a very enviable repu-
tation in California both for personal integrity and
professional ability as an engineer, after a thorough
examination of other lines and passes over the
mountains ; and having gained, mainly by his in-
dorsement, the approval of Congress, and the sup-
port and bounty, also, of San Francisc. and Sacra-
mento, it has readily achieved these decided advan-
tages over its rival, which has been sustained only
by private capital and the profits of its toll-road.
Mr. Judah, who died after having established the
general route of the Pacific Road and secured its
indorsement by Congress, was an assistant engineer
in the construction of your Connecticut River Rail-
road in Massachusetts, and married a Greenfield
lady. His reputation is one of the main bulwarks
of the friends of his road, in the bitter controversy
that has raged between them and the advocate:, of
the Placerville route ; and, though this contest now
seems nearly over under the triumph of the upper
route, many of the most intelligent citizens of the
State still contend that the Placerville line is the
easiest and safest for the railroad track. Our own
superficial examination of the two routes tended to
this conclusion, also ; but it is too late, now, to argue
thv't question. The Judah or Dutch Flat Route has
got the name and the means, and is being pushed
over the mountains with commendable vigor and
rapidity ; and it is wise for California and the coun-
try alike to sustain it, and secure its completion as
early as possible. This accomplished, the other may
and probably will be extended over into Nevada, and

1..

TINENT.

a very enviable repu-
ersonal integrity and
neer, after a thorough
ind passes over the
sd, mainly by his in-
Dngress, and the sup-
Francisc^ and Sacra-
these decided advan-
s been sustained only
refits of its toll-road,
aving established the
Road and secured its
s an assistant engineer
onnecticut River Rail-
married a Greenfield
of the main bulwarks
the bitter controversy
1 and the advocates, of
lOUgh this contest now
I triumph of the upper
elligent citizens of the
Placerville line is the
Iroad track. Our own
le two routes tended to
s too late, now, to argue
r Dutch Flat Route has
is, and is being pushed
ammendable vigor and
:alifornia and the coun-
ecure its completion as
mplished.the other may
:d over into Nevada, and

TRACK ON THE SUMMIT OF THE SIERRAS. 269

already there is agitation to secure government
bounty in its behalf.

Our party made a very profitable and interesting
excursion over the route of the Central Pacific Road
from Sacramento to Donner Lake, on the eastern
slope of the mountains, by special train and coaches,
and along the working sections on horseback. The
track is graded and laid, and trains are running to
the new town of Colfax (named for the Speaker),
which is fifty-six miles from Sacramento. Grading
IS now in active progress on the next two sections,
to Dutch Flat, twelve miles, and the Crystal Lake,
thirteen miles .farther, with a force of about four
thousand laborers, mostly Chinese, Though these
sections are through a very rough and rocky coun-
try, the work will certainly be done to Dutch Flat
by spring, and Crystal Lake earl> next fall. Then
the rails are within fifteen miles of the summit of
the Sierra.?, The toughest job of the whole line
lies in these fifteen miles up, and the three or four
miles down to Donner Lake, on the other side.
This m.ust hang on for tv/o or three years, it seems
to me ; there will be some tunneling, probably, and
much hcvy rock-cutting; for several miles along
the summit, which is seven thousand feet above the
sea level, the road must apparently be cut into a
wall of solid rock, and then be covered by a roof to
keep off the snows ; — but the later surveys soften
the anticipaicJ ^ verity of the work, and the com-
pany and its contractors are sanguine of mastering
all the difficulties of the s»- nrait sections in two
years.

270 ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

The wagon-road goes down from the summit to
Donncr Lake at the rate of about four hundred feet
to the mile, and the railway track will have to be
wound in and out on the mountain sides for ten or
more miles in order to get ahead two or three, and
reach the level of the lake, whence it can be run
readily down by the Truckce River into the valleys
and plains of Nevada. The road ascends the moun-
tains on this side by a very regular and nearly uni-
form grade, never exceeding one hundred and five
feet to the mile, which is less than the highest
grades of the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad, to
which the act of Congress limits this road. In
going down the other side, no grade will exceed
one hundred and five feet, and after reaching Don-
ner Lake the grade will be reduced to forty feet.
But the company does not purpose to wait for the
full construction of the track over the summit be-
fore pushing the work on the line beyond. While
that is advanced as fast as possible, they will com-
mence next spring at Donner Lake and proceed
down the mountains and out into and through Ne-
vada as rapidly as may be, eager to absorb as much
of the whole enterprise, and meet the road commg
west at a point as far east as they can.

So far the company have used none of the United
States bonds or lands granted by Congress in aid
of the work. Some two and a half millions in these
bonds are now due. The company can issue an
equal amount of their own bonds guaranteed by a
preceding or first mortgage; but none of these,
also, have yet been used. They also have available

:i 11

TINENT.

from the summit to
out four hundred feet
rack will have to be
ntain sides for ten or
;ad two or three, and
/hence it can be run
River into the valleys
•ad ascends the moun-
;gular and nearly uni-
3ne hundred and five
2SS than the highest
id Ohio Railroad, to
limits this road. In
no grade will exceed
d after reaching Don-
reduced to forty feet,
lurpose to wait for the
: over the summit bc-
; line beyond. While
ossible, they will com-
ler Lake and proceed
; into and through Ne-
Lger to absorb as much
meet the road coming
i they can.

sed none of the United
:ed by Congress in aid
a half millions in these
company can issue an
bonds guaranteed by a
e; but none of these,
'hey also have available

THE FINANCIAL STRENGTH OF THE ROAD. 27 1

a million and a half of other bonds on which the
State of California pays seven per cent, interest in
gold for twenty years. Here are six millions and a
half of good securities now on hand for prosecuting
the work, besides what is earned as the road pro-
gresses, and the power- to anticipate the issue of
their own first mortgage bonds at the rate of forty-
eight thousand dollars for a mile of mountains and
sixteen thousand dollars for a mile of plain, for one
hundred miles in advance of construction. The
work so far has been done out of about a million of
paid-up stock, and subscriptions of the county of
Sacramento of three hundred thousand dollars, the
county of Placer of two hundred and fifty thousand
dollars, and of San Francisco of four hundred thou-
sand dollars, and the profits of that part of the road
in running order. Of these sums, nearly '.alf a
million is still left, and as the road has gone so far
as to substantially secure a monopoly of all the
business over the mountains, the profits on its com-
pleted section will be constantly increasing. Then,
besides all this, there are between eighteen and
nineteen millions of the twenty millions capital
stock of the road, yet unsubscribed for. Sometime,
though not at present, this will be paying property ;
and it may suffice even now for the profits of the
contractors. The company thus feel strong finan-
cially, and though much of their securities are not
just now marketable except at a discount, they are
confident there need be no further delay for the
lack of means, and are increasing their working
force upon the road as fast as laborers can be had.

Ill

272

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

All the Chinese that offer, or thai can be encouraKeil
to emigrate from home, are employed, and it is ex-
pected that five thousand will be at work on the
road before; the present season closes.

These details are very long, but I trust are not
altogether tedious or uninteresting. The theme
presses itself upon us more deeply, more solemnly,
than any one other offered by our journey and its
observations. It is pathetic and painful, as I said
in the beginning, in the solicitude and anxiety it
awakens here among the people, and which we can-
not help but share. There is really nothing unrea-
sonable in demanding that rails should be laid and
trains running over half the line between the Pacific
Ocean and the Missouri River in two years and a
half, over two-thirds of it another year, and the en-
tire distance, unbroken, in five years. There are
short sections in the mountains that may require
three, or even five years to work them out ; but the
great bulk of the way can be graded and laid with
rails in three years. The California Pacific railroad
company, led by some of the best men in the State,
with Ex-Governor Stanford for president, say, calmly
and distinctly, in their annual report just published,
that they will take their completed line into Salt
Lake City in three years from date. I believe they
can and will do it, with anything like an easy money
and labor market. And it is just as practicable for
the road from the East to reach the Rocky Moun-
tains in twelve or eighteen months^ and to span
these mountains in two years more.

Next spring should see as many men at work on

the
fill
i8(
anc
wa;
pic
of
anc
of
1
ha\
of
spc
sec
am
I.c
mil
ma
grc
sec
of
ing
me
her
tioi
cor

TINRNT.

FINAL APPEAL FOU TIIK RAILUOAD,

273

at cim be cncouragcil
nploycci, and it is c.\-
11 be at work on the
I closes.

;, but I trust are not
•esting. The theme
x'ply, more solemnly,
f our journey and its
md painful, as I said
citude and anxiety it
)le, and which we can-
really nothing unrea-
ils should be laid and
le between the Pacific
()r in two years and a
ther year, and the en-
ve years. There are
lins that may require
)rk them out ; but the
graded and laid with
ifornia Pacific railroad
best men in the State,
• president, say, calmly
report just published,
npleted line into Salt
date. I believe they
ig like an easy money
just as practicable for
ich the Rocky Moun-
monthsj and to span
. more,
many men at work on

the eastern line as there will be on the western ; the
fall, fifteen to twenty thousand along its entire route ;
1.S67 should count fifty thousand shovels and picks
and drills, leveling the paths for this national high-
way; and in 1868 the hungry hearts of these peo-
ple of the Pacific States should dance to the music
of a hundred thousand strong, — music sweeter far
and holier even than that of all the martial bands
of the new Republic.

Men of the East! Men at Washington! You
have given the toil and even the blood of a million
of your brothers and fellows for four years, and
spent three thousand million dollars, to rescue one
section of the Republic from barbarism and from
anarchy ; and your triumph makes the cost cheap.
Lend now a few thousand of men, and a hundred
millions of money, to create a new Republic ; to
marry to the Nation of the Atlantic an equal if not
greater Nation of the Pacific. Anticipate a new
sectionalism, a new strife, by a triumph of the arts
of Peace, that shall be even prouder and more reach-
ing than the victories of your Arms. Here is pay-
ment of your great debt ; here is wealth unbounded ;
here the commerce of the world ; here the comple-
tion of a Republic that is continental ; but you must
come and take them with the Locomotive !
12* 18

'^/Mf

LETTER XXV.

COUNTRY EXCURSIONS: THE GEYSERS: VINE-
YARDS, AND AGRICULTUi^E.

San Francisco, August a8.
Perhaps this is the least pleasant month of the
twelve to see San Francisco and California in,— the
dryesc and dreariest and dustiest, when Nature is
at r-st ; yet we find more to see, more delightful
journeys to make into the interior, than we have
time for. In every direction, there is a novelty, a
surprise for us ; everywhere Nature makes strange
and fascinating combinations, presents herself in
new forms, outrages all our pre-educated ideas as
to her laws and habits, and yet everywhere, as ever,
is impressive and beautiful. These valleys .nside
the Coast range of mountains about San Francisco
are particularly rich in novelty and beauty, and have
been the theater of several very delightful excur-
sions by our party since we came back from the
Yosemite. They form the garden of CaUfornia
agriculturally, and their nearness to the central
market, and their fertile soil, have made them to
be the best improved r.nd the most steadily pro-
gressive in wealth and population of all the mtenor
sections of the State.

XXV.

HE GEYSERS :
UCULTUi^E.

VINE-

A.N Francisco, August 28.
pleasant month of the
and California in,— the
istiest, when Nature is

10 see, more delightful
interior, than we have
n, there is a novelty, a
: Nature makes strange
ns, presents herself in
r pre-educated ideas as
yet everywhere, as ever,
. These valleys .nside
ns about San Francisco
Ity and beauty, and have

11 very delightful excur-
ve came back from the
e garden of California,
learness to the central
oil, have made them to

the most steadily pro-
bation of all the interior

THE NATURAL DIVISIONS OF CALIFORNIA. 2/5

California, as you will see by the map, is 11^ a
great basin or bowl, between two ranges of n.oun-
tains. Along the Coast runs one ; and the Sierras,
two hundred miles east, separate her from Nevada.
The Golden Gate at San Francisco lets in the ocean
and out her interior waters ; to the north from that
city stretches the Sacramento River and its tributa-
ries through a plain two hundred miles long and
forty to fifty wide ; to the south, the San Joaquin
(pronounced San Walk-in) repeats the same ; and
the two, with all the drainage of the interior, all the
inside waste of both ranges of mountains, meet
above San Francisco, and spread out into the wide
inland bays, twenty to fifty miles long and four to ten
wide, that give to that city its beauty, its wealth,
and its commerce ; and delaying here, they leisure-
ly balance accounts with tfie ocean through its nar-
row gateway.

San Francisco hangs over the edge of its chief-
est, largest bay, like the oriole balancing on the
crest of his long, pocket nest ; peeping around the
corner into the Pacific, but opening wide eyes north
and south and east, to the interior. To the north
and south, the Sacramento and San Joaquin valleys
are shut in by the two ranges of mountains chas-
eezing into each other. And this is California.
The side valleys from ^he Sierrjis are the field of
the gold diggings and the quartz mining; their
mate's over the way, inside the Coast range, and
among its foot-hills, squeezing first and longest the
spongy clouds from the ocean, get the most rain,
and are the kindest to the husbandman ; while the

276

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

broad, intermediate plains along the main rivers,
wait somewhat on irrigation or a better understand-
ing of the mysteries of their wealth. Every year s
experience goes more and more to prove, however,
that nature here do^s not forbid successful agricul-
ture in withholding rain for six months of the year.
The laws of her increase are peculiar ; but they are
not hard. The vine does not need irrigation, nor
the other fruits ; and the small grains are natural
to hill and plain alike : and all ripen richly under
the stimulus of the winter and spring moisture.

Across the bay from San Francisco lies its sub-
urb, Oakland, home of many of its best people.
Here is one of the Coast valleys 1 1. ive mentioned,
thick with low-branching evergreen oaks, and soft-
er in sky and air than the city; here is quiet of
country and cultivation of town; here grows the
"garden sauce" of the metropolis; here are its
best seminaries and its hopeful college; here, too,
Fred Law Olmsted has planned on a large scale,
and with novelties of arrangement befitting th^
novelties of climate and verdure, a grand rural cem-
etery; and here Major Ralph W. Kirkham, whom
Springfield sent to West Point a generation ago,
and has been proud of ever since, has the most ele-
gant house and home to be found anywhere on the
Pacific Coast. Down the bay on the San Francisco
side, through the San jose (Ozay) valley and its
villages and its culture, and around its base, and
back on the Alameda and Oakland shore, forms
one of the most interesting of our late excursions.
It is a sweep of a hundred miles; but raUroads at

"^m

INENT.

g the main rivers,
x better imderstand-
:alth. Every year's
! to prove, however,
1 successful agricul-
months of the year,
iculiar ; but they are
need irrigation, nor
1 grains are natural
1 ripen richly under
spring moisture,
ancisco lies its sub-

of its best people.
'S I 1. ive mentioned,
jreen oaks, and soft-
ity ; here is quiet of
wn; here grows the
opolis; here are its
111 college ; here, too,
led on a large scale,
;ement befitting the
•e, a grand rural cem-

W. Kirkham, whom
nt a generation ago,
ice, has the most ele-
und anywhere on the
on the San Francisco
Ozay) valley and its
around its base, and
Oakland shore, forms
■ our late excursions,
liles ; but railroads at

THE SAN JOSE VALLEY.

277

beginning and end, — the arms which San Francisco
is crooking around her intervening waters to stretch
out, by way of Stockton, to Sacramento, and there
welcome the continental cars, — helped us to make
it leisurely in a day.

Many an elegant country home, with orchards
and gardens acres wide, showed the overflow of San
Francisco wealth, as we rode down the San Jose
valley ; miles of wheat fields proved how extensive
are the plans of agriculture here ; busy and pros-
perous villages told of their sure and steady profit,
— quite in contrast with the desolated look of most
of the mining towns of the interior ; old and tumble-
down mission-hovses and churches, built of mud
and stone, without wood or nails, and neighbor-
ing orchards of ancient pear and fig trees, marked
the old homes of Catholic and Spanish missionaries
among the Indians ; modern convents and colleges
holding up the cross, proved the presence of the
same element, flexible in its character, and now
offering perhaps the best education of the Coast to
the children of our Puritan emigrants ; — everywhere
was novelty, on every side beauty, though most of
the hills were bare and brown ; and only the low,
scraggy oaks, making park of field, and the culti-
vated orchard fed the eye with green. The plain
was everywhere yellow with the stubble of grain, or
the wild oats that grow spontaneously on unoccu-
pied hill and meadow all over California, or brown
with the dry grass, that is hay ungathered, and rich
feed still for cattle and horse ; and the hills, still of
loose beautifully rounded shapes, that I first recog-

278

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

nized in Nevada, and are ever a surprise and a de-
light to the eye, wearing the same colors of yellow
and brovTn, blending into each other, and soft and
rich under the bloom of a haze that belongs to the
season and the shore ;— there was no avail in strug-
gling against education and experience, — here was
beauty and exhilarating life without rain for many
months, without forests, without rivers, without
green grass, or flowers.

Similar and prolonged experience, with some
added and fresh elements, came from a rapid three
days' journey northerly from San Francisco to see
the Geysers, or famous boiling springs, and the
neighboring valleys famous for farms and fruits
and vl leyards. Captain Baxter's steamer "Peta-
luma" took us up through San Puebla Bay, one of
the widenings of the outcoming waters of the inte-
rior, and Petaluma Creek, to the thriving town of
the latter name. I took a sharp look at it because
of its persistent desire to steal your neighbor. Rev.
Mr. Harding, away from Longmeadow, for its own
minister ; and found it one of the most prosperous
and pleasant of California towns, at the foot of one
of the richest agricultural regions of the Coast.
The rest of the day we rode through dryest dust
and reposing nature, up through the Petaluma val-
ley, and over into that of the Russian River, famous
and peculiar here for its especial kindliness to our
Indian corn,, also for its toothsome grouse, first
cousin to our partridge ; stopping at the village of
Healdsburg for brass band, speeches and supper,
and. after a rapid hour's drive by moonlight, at a

INENT.

X surprise and a de-
,me colors of yellow
other, and soft and
that belongs to the
'as no avail in strug-
perience, — here was
thout rain for many
,out rivers, without

erience, with some
e from a rapid three
an Francisco to see
ig springs, and the
3r farms and fruits
er's steamer "Peta-
i Puebla Bay, one of
g waters of the inte-
he thriving town of
'p look at it because
your neighbor, Rev.
meadow, for its own
the most prosperous
ns, at the foot of one
gions of the Coast,
through dryest dust
;h the Petaluma val-
.ussian River, famous
ial kindliness to our
thsome grouse, first
>ing at the village of
ipeeches and supper,
e by moonlighti at a

A RARE WHIP AND A RARE DRIVE.

279

solitary ranch under the Geyser mountain for the
night.

Sunrise the next morning found us whirling along
a rough road over the mountains to the especial
object of the excursion. But the drive of the morn-
ing was the more remarkable feature. We supposed
the Plains and Sierras had exhausted possibilities
for us in that respect. But they were both outwit-
ted here. For bold daring and brilliant execution,
our driver this morning must take the palm of the
world, I verily believe. The distance was twelve
miles, up and down steep hills, through enclosed
pastures ; the vehicle an open wagon, the passen-
gers six, the horses four and gay, and changed once ;
and the driver Mr. Clark T. Foss, our landlord over
night and owner of the route. For several miles
the road lay along "the hog's back," the crest of a
mountain that ran away from the pt)int or edge,
like the sides of a roof, several thousand feet to
the ravines below; so narrow that, pressed down
and widened as much as was possible, it was rarely
over ten or twelve feet wide, and in one place but
seven feet ; and winding about as the crest of the
hill ran ; — and yet we went over this narrow cause-
way on the full gallop.

After going up and down several mountains, hold-
ing rare views of valleys and ravines and peaks,
under the shadows and mists of early morning, we
came to a point overlooking thjj Geysers. Far be-
low in the valley, we could see the hot steam pour-
ing out of the ground; and wide was the waste
around. The descent was almost perpendicular;

\ „

280

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

the road ran down sixteen hundred feet in rne two
miles to the hotel and it had thirty-five sharp turns
in its course : " Look at your watch," said Mr. Foss,
as he started on the steep decHne; crack, crnok
went the whip over the heads of the leaders, as the
sharp corners canie in sight, and they plunged with
seeming recl.lessness ahead, — and in niue minutes
and a half, they were pulled up at the bottom, and
we took breath. Going back, the team was an hour
and a quarter in the same passage. When we
wondered at Mr. Foss for his perilous and rapid
driving down such a steep road, he said, "Oh,
there's no danger or difficulty in it, — all it needs is
to keep your head cool, and the leaders out of the
way." But nevertheless I was convinced it not only
does require a quick and cool brain, but a ready and
strong and experienced un.nd. The whole morning
ride was accomplished in two hours and a quarter ;
and though everybody predicts a catastrophe from
its apparent dangers, Mr. Foss has driven it, after
this style, for many years, and never had an accident.
The Geysers are exhausted in a couple of hours.
They are certainly a curiosity, a marvel ; but there
is no element of beauty ; there is nothing to be
studied, to grow into or upon you. We had seen
something similar, though less extensive, in Neva-
da ; and like a three-legged calf, or the Siamese
twins, or P. T. Barnum, or James Gordon Bennett,
once seeing is satisfactory for a life-time. They
are a sort of grand natural chemical shop in disor-
der. In a little ravine, branching off from the val-
ley, is their principal theater. The giound is white

I. ^

[KENT.

THE GEYSERS — HELL EMBOP'ED.

281

Jred feet in rne two
irty-five sharp turns
,tch," said Mr. Foss,
dine; crack, crack
f the leaders, as the
i they plunged with
and in niue iniuntcs
I at the bottom, and
le team was an hour
lassage. When we

perilous and rapid
oad, he said, "Oh,
n It, — all it needs is
e leaders out of the
:onvinced it not only
rain, but a ready and
The whole morning
lours and a quarter ;
5 a catastrophe from
; has driven it, after
;ver had an accident,
n a couple of hours.
a marvel ; but there
re is nothing to be
you. We had seen

extensive, in Neva-
:alf, or the Siamese
les Gordon Bennett,
r a life-time. They
:mical shop in disor-
ing off from the val-
The gt ound is white

and yellow and gray, porous and rotten, with long
and high heat. The air is also hot and sulphurous
to an unpleasant degree. AU along the bottom of
the ravine and up its sides, the earth seems hollow
and full uf ■ >oiling water. In frequent little cracks
and pin holes it finds ven^ , and out of these it
bubbles and emits steam like so many tiny tea-
kettles at high tide. In one place the earth yawns
wide, and the " Witches' Caldron," several feet in
diameter, seethes and spouts a black, inky water,
so hot as to boil an egg instantly, and capable of
reducing a human body to pulp at short notice.
The water is thrown up four to six feet in height,
and the general effect is very devilish indeed, The
"Witches' Caldron" is reproduced a dozen times
in miniature, — handy little pools for cooking your
breakfast and dinner, if they were only in your
kitchen or back yard. Farther up you follow a
puffing noise, exactly like that of a steamboat in
progress, and you come to a couple of volumes of
steam struggling out of tiny holes, but mounting
high and spreading wide from their force and heat.
You grow faint with the heat and smells ; your
feet seem burning; and the air is loaded with a
mixture of salts, sulphur, iron, magnesia, soda, am-
monia, all the chemicals and compounds of a doc-
tor's shop. You feci as if the ground might any
moment open, and let you down to a genuine hell.
You recall the line from Milton, or somebody :
" Here is hell, — myself am hell." And, most dread-
ful of all, you lose all appetite for the breakfast of
venison, trout and grouse that awaits your return

?=iS-«S1«»ST'-'

?82

ACROSS TIE CONTINENT.

to the hotel. So you struggle out of the ravine,
every step among tiny volumes of steam, and over
bubbling pools of water, and cool and refresh your-
self among the trees on the mountain sid*^ beyond.
Then, not to omit any sight, you go back throuj;h
two other ravines where the same phenomena are
repeated, though less extensively. All around ly
the hot pools and escape valves are delicate and
beautiful little crystals of sulphur, and soda, and
other distinct elements of the combustibles below,
taking substance again on the surface.

All this wonder-working is going on day and
night, year after year, answering to-day exactly to
the descriptions of yesterday and five years ago.
Most of the waters arc black as ink, and some as
thick; others are quite light and transparent; and
they are of all degrees of temperature from one
hundred and fifty to five hundred. Near by, too,
are springs of rool water ; some as cold as these
are hot, almost. The phenomena carries its own
explanation ; the chemist will reproduce for you the
same thing, on a small scale, by mixing sulphuric
acid an A cold water, and the other unkindrcd ele-
ments that have here, in nature's laboratory, chanced
to get together. Volcanic action is also most prob-
ably connected with some of the demons^-ations

here.

There must be utility in these waters for the cure
of rheumatism and other blood and skin diseases.
The Indians have long used some of the pools in
this way, with results that seem like fables. One
of the pools has fame for eyes; and, with chemi-

gn-«

riNKNT.

c out of the ravine,
;s of steam, and over
ool and refresh your-
ountain sid*^ beyond,
you go back throu<;h
same phenomena are
t^ely. AH around by
Ives are delicate and
Iphur, and soda, and
: combustibles below,
; surface.

is going on day and
•ing to-day exactly to
f and five years ago.
c as ink, and some as
and transparent; and
:empcrature from one
ndred. Near by, too,
some as cold as these
)mena carries its own
I reproduce for you the
;, by mixing sulphuric
; other unkindrcd ele-
•e's laboratory, chanced
lion is also most prob-
of the demonstrations

icse waters for the cure
ood and skin diseases,
d some of the pools in
seem like fables. One
iyes ; and, with chemi-

NAPA valley: its springs anp daths. 283

cal examination and scientific application, doubtless
large benefits might be reasonably assured among
invalids from a resort to these waters. At present
there is only a rough little bathing-house, collecting
the waters from the ravine, and the visitors to the
valley, save for curiosity, are but few. It is a wild,
unredeemed spot, all around the Geysers ; beautiful
with deep forests, a mountain strcyon, and clear air.
Game, too, abounds; deer and grouse and trout
seemed plentier than in any region we .uwc visited.
There is a comfortable hotel ; but otherwise this
valley is uninhabited. The entire region for two
miles in length and half a mile in breadth, in-
cluding all the springs. Is owned by one man, who
olFcrs it for sale. Who would speculate in a mun-
dane hell ^

Back on the route of our morning ride, we then
turned off into the neighboring valley of Napa,
cclcl' v*^ed for its agricultural beauty and produc-
tiveness, and also for its Calistoga and Warm
Springs, charmingly located, the one in the plains
and the other close among mountains, and con-
stituting the fashionable summer resorts for San
Franciscans. The water is sulphurous ; the bath-
ing delicious, softening the skin to tiie texture of a
babe's ; the country charming : but we found both
establishments, though with capacious head-quar-
terr and numerous family cottages, almost deserted
of Meople.

Past farms and orchards, through parks of ever-
green oak 'lat looked as perfect as if the work of
art, we stopped at the village of Napa, twin and

284

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

rival to retaliimn - - ^ from here, crossing ar\othcr
spur of the C uigc, we entered :itill another

beautiful and lertilc valley, that of Sonoma.

Here arc some of the largest vineyards of north-
ern California, and we visited tluil of the Hueiia
Vista Vinicultural society, under the management
of Colonel Ilaraszthy, a Hungarian. This estate
embraces abouifive thousand acres of land, a prince-
ly-looking house, large wine manufactory and cel-
lars, and about a million vines, foreign and native.
The whole value of its property is half a millioii
dollars, including one hundred thousand dollars'
worth of wine and brandies ready and in prepara-
tion for market. We tasted the liquors, we shared
the generous hospitality of the estate, and its super-
intendent ; but we failed to obtain, here or else-
where, any satisfactory information as to the boasied
success of wine-making, yet, in California. The
business is still very much in its infancy, indeed ;
and this one enterprise does not seem well-managed.
Nor do we find the wines very inviting ; they par-
take of the general character of the Rhine wines
and the Ohio Catawba ; but are rougher, harsh and
heady, — needing apparently both some improve-
ment in culture and manufacture, and time for soft-
ening. I have drank, indeed, much better California
wine in Springfield than out here.

The vine and wine interest is already a great one,
and is rapidly growing. Nearly all parts of the
Stqte are favorable to it ; the deserted and exhausted
gold fields of the Sierra Nevada valleys and hill-
sides, as well as the valleys of the Coast range and

TINENT.

crc, crossing another
entered ;itill another
It of Sonoma,
it vineyards of north-
l that of the Huena
der the management
igarian. This estate
lores of land, a prince-
manufactory and cel-
s, foreign and native.
:rty is half a million
ed thousand dollars'
eady and in prcpara-
:he liquors, we shared
e estate, and its super-
obtain, here or else-
ation as to the boasied
, in California. The
n its infancy, indeed ;
ot seem well-managed,
ry inviting ; they par-
;r of the Rhine wines
ire rougher, harsh and
both some improvc-
ture, and time for soft-
much better California
here.

t is already a great one,
early all parts of the
deserted and exhausted
2vada valleys and hill-
)f the Coast range and

CALIFORNIA WINES VS. CHAMPAGNE.

285

tlic sotTthcrn mountains. Down in Los Angclos
County, this season, though the grapes are twice as
abundant as last year, the price is treble, because
of the increased preparations for their manufacture,
and the profit that is sure to be realized from the
])usiness when well-conducted. The Ikiena Vista
vineyards have been making part of their wine into
charppagne the last year, and gratifying results are
confidently predicted.

But as doctors never take their own medicines,
the true Californian is slow to drink his own wine.
He prefers to import from France, and to export to
the East; and probably both kinds arc improved
by the voyages. More French wines arc drank
in California, twice over, than by the same popu-
lation in any part of the eastern States. Cham-
pagne is mother's milk, indeed, to all these people ;
tliey start the day with "a champagne cock-tail,"
and go to bed with a full bottle of it under tlieir
ribs. At all the bar-rooms, it is sold by the glass,
the same as any other liquor, and it answers to
the general name of "wine" with both drinker and
landlord.

From Sonoma, over another hill, to our steam-
boat of three days ago, and by that back in a few
hours to the city. These three days seem long,
they have been so rich in novelty and knowledge,
in beauty of landscape, in acquaintanceship with
the best riches of California. These valleys are,
indeed, agricultural jewels, and should be held as
prouder possessions by the State than her gold
mines. The small grains, fruits and vegetables are

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

their common, chief productions; and the yields
arc enormous, while the culture and cure are com-
paratively light.

In California, from December till April and May
is seed-time; from June till September is harvest.
No barns arc needed for housing stuck ; they can
roam safely in pasture for the whole year. Neither
are they needed for the harvests; threshing and
winnowing are done as well in the open field,—
sometimes, indeed, by the very machine that reaps,
and at the same i nu-,— and the grain is put in bags,
and thus transported to the market ; all at leisure,
for there is no rain nor dew to spoil the crop ; it
lies safely in any shape in the open field. There is
no hot, hurrying work with planting and harvest-
ing, as in the East ; no dodging of showers ; no
lost days during the long summer. Fifty bushels
of wheat to the acre is more common here than
twenty-five in the best wheat fields of the States,
and seventy-five and eighty bushels are often ob-
tained. Barley, which is another leading crop,
yields still greater return ; an authentic instance of
one hundred and twenty bushels to the acre is be-
fore me • and crops that would astound an Eastern
farmer are often gathered from the droppings of a
last ye?r's harvest. A single farmer in the neigh-
borhood of San Jose, with a twelve hundred acre
farm, has this year gathered in over fifty thousand
bushels of wheat; and the county of Santa Clara,
in which this farm is located, lying south fifty miles
from San Francisco, and in between two sections
of the Coast range of mountains, presents the foi-

lowi
two
hum
\nuv
appi
croj;
one
whe
sane
of c
N
nia I
nort
east
ever
gati<
b'.it
live
opcc
Eas^
cattl
two
for]

INENT.

AGRltUlTURAL KILIIKS OF CALII'OKNI A.

287

ns; and the yields
; and care arc tum-

r till April and May
jptembcr is harvest,
ing stuck ; they can
vholc year. Neither
ests ; threshing and
in the open field, —
r machine that reaps,
; grain is put in bags,
larket ; all at leisure,
to spoil the crop ; it
open field. There is
lanting and harvest-
ging of showers ; no
itimer. Fifty bushels
a common here than
fields of the States,
jushels are often ob-
nother leading crop,
authentic instance of
lels to the acre is be-
d astound an Eastern
m the droppings of a
farmer in the neigh-
twelve hundred acre
in over fifty thousand
ounty of Santa Clara,
lying south fifty miles
between two sections
tains, presents the fol-

lowing aggregates of agriculture: acres fenced in,
two hundred and ten thousand ; cultivated, one
hundred and thirty thousand; grape vines, eight
hundred and seventy-nine thousand nine hundred ;
apple trees, one hundred and twenty thousand;
crops this year, — thirty-five thousand tons of hay,
one hundred and thirty-five thousand bushels of
wheat, one hundred thousand of barley, si.\ty thou-
sand each of oats and potatoes, and four thousand .
of corn.

Nothing is wanting to the agriculture of Califor-
nia but a steady and extensive market ; she sends
north to Washington and the Uritish Provinces ;
east to Nevada and Idaho ; south to Mexico ; is
even trying China on the west, and with steam navi-
gation hopes for large market for wheat there; —
b'-it most of her soil is still unbroken, — her produc-
tive power is but suggested, not proven, undevel-
oped. And still she buys half her butter in the
East ! Visit ranches in the interior, that boast their
cattle by the tens of thousands, and the chances are
two to one that neither milk nor butter can be had
for love or money I

LETTER XXVI.

OF SAN FRANCISCO: BUSINESS MATTERS.

San Francisco, August 26.
This is a very ridiculous and repulsive town, in
some aspects, and a very fascinating and commend-
able one, in others, both materially and morally,
physically and esthetically. Its youth is its apology
in one regard, its wonder and its merit on the other.
The location must have been chosen for its water
and not its land privileges. It is set upon the m-
side of a range of the purest sand-hills, six or seven
miles wide, blown up from the ocean, and still blow-
incr up, between it and the bay. The main busmess
streets are in the hollows, or on the flat land, made
by pulling down the sand from the hills. But go
out of these in any direction, and you are con-
fronted by steep hills. Some of these are cut
through, or being cut through, others are scaled, to
make room for the spread of the town. Tlje happy
thought of winding the streets about their sides,
which would have made a very picturesque and
certainly get-around-able town, came too late. If
but the early San Franciscans had thought of Bos-
ton, and followed the cow-paths, what a unique, nice

THE SAND-HILLS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

289

XXVI.

JSINESS MATTERS.

ln Francisco, August 26.
ind repulsive town, in
inating and commend-
aterially and morally,
Its youth is its apology
its merit on the other,
n chosen for its water

It is set upon the in-
sand-hills, six or seven
e ocean, and still blow-
Ly. The main business
• on the flat land, made
rom the hills. But go
ion, and you are con-
ome of these are cut
;h, others are scaled, to
■ the town. The happy
■eets about their sides,

very picturesque and
)wn, came too late. If
ms had thought of Bos-
iths, what a unique, nice

town they would have made of this ! Only I fear
there never was even an estray cow on these virgin
sand-hills, as innocent of verdure as a babe of sor-
row or vice. The modern American straight line
style was the order, no matter what was in front ;
and the result is that going about San Francisco is
all collar and breeching work for man and beast.
The consequence is, also, there are only two or
three streets that you can think of driving out of
town on. The only way to get up and down the
others with a horse, is to go zig-zag from one side
to the other. Some of the principal residence
streets are after this fashion, however ; I found our
friend. Rev. Horatio Stebbins, of the Unitarian
church here, holding on by main strength to a side
hill that runs up at an angle of something like thirty
degrees. And so they run up and down, and the
city is straggling loosely over these hills for several
miles in all directions. Some of the highest of the
knobs are being cut down, and this leaves the early
houses, — that is those built four or five years ago, —
away up one hundred feet or more in the air, and
reached by long flights of steep steps.

Wherever the hill-sides and tops are fastened
with houses or pavements, or twice daily seduced
with water, there the foundations are measurably
secure ; and the deed of the purchaser means some-
thing ; but all elsewhere, all the open lots and un-
paved paths are still undergoing the changing and
creative process. The daily winds swoop up the
soil in one place and deposit it in another in great
masses, like drifts of snow. You will often find a
'3 '9

290

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

suburban street blocked up with fresh sand ; and
the owner of vacant lots needs certainly to pay
them daily visit in order to swear to title ; and the
chance is anyway that, between one noon and
'another, he and his neighbor will have changed
properties to an indefinite depth. Incidental to all
this, of course, are clouds of sand and dust through
all the residence and open parts of the city, making
large market for soap and clothes-brushes, and put-
ting neat housekeepers quite in despair for their
furniture. Naturally enough, there is a looseness
on the subject of cleanliness, that would shock
your ofd-fashioned New England housewives.
But then, as compensation, the winds give health,

^keeping the town fresh and clean ; and the hills

offer wide visions of bay and river, and islands and
sister hills,— away out and on with varying life of
shipping, and manufactures, and agriculture ; and,
hanging over all, a sky of azure with broad hori-
zons. Oceanward is Lone Mountain Cemetery,
covering one of the hills with its scrawny, low-
running, live oak shrub tree, and its white monu-
ments, conspicuous among which are the erections
to those martyrs to both western and eastern civili-
zation and progress,— Broderick, the mechanic and
senator, James King of William, the editor, and
Baker, the soldier. Here is the old Mission quar-
ter, there the soldiers' camp, yonder, by the water,
the bristling fort, again the conspicuous and gener-
ous Orphan Asylum, monument of the tenderness
and devotion of the women of the city, and to the
left of that still, the two Jewish Cemeteries, each

JTINENT.

PERPETUAL GARDENS IN THE CITY.

291

with fresh sand; and
;cds certainly to pay
ivcar to title ; and the
ween one noon and
ar will have changed
pth. Incidental to all
sand and dust through
rts of the city, making
ithes-brushes, and put-
e in despair for their
1, there is a looseness
:ss, that would shock
land housewives.
, the winds give health,
d clean; and the hills
I river, and islands and
n with varying life of
and agriculture; and,
azure with broad hori-
: Mountain Cemetery,
with its scrawny, low-
e, and its white monu-
ivhich are the erections
stern and eastern civili-
:rick, the iftechanic and
William, the editor, and
J the old Mission quar-
p, yonder, by the water,
conspicuous and gener-
ment of the tenderness
I of the city, and to the
ewish Cemeteries, each

with its appropriate and tasteful burial chapel. No
other American city holds in its very center such
sweeping views of itself and its neighborhood.

Then the. little yarc'^ around the dwellings of the
prosperous, even of those of moderate means, are
made rich with all the verdure of a green-house,
with only the cost of daily watering. The most
delicate of evergreens; roses of every grade and
hue; fuchsias vigorous and high as lilac bushes;
nasturtiums sweeping over fences and up house
walls ; flowering vines of delicate quality, unknown
in the East; geraniums and salvias, pansies and
daisies, and all the kindred summer flowers of New
York and New England, grow and blossom under
these skies, throughout the whole year, — the sarne
in December and January as in June and August,
— with a richness and a profusion that are rarely
attained by any out door culture in the East. The
public aqueducts furnish water, though at consider-
able expense, and pipes convey and spread it in
fine spray all over yard and garden. The result is,
every man's door-yard in the city is like an east-
ern conservatory ; and little humble cottages smile
out of this city of sand-hills and dust, as green and
as yellow, and as red and as purple, as gayest of
garden can make them. There is no aristocracy
of flowers here ; they greet you everywhere in
greatest profusion, and are tender solace to home-
sick heart and cheap and sweet tonic to weary
brain.

Kindred contrasts force themselves upon the ob-
servant stranger, in the business and social Hfe of

292

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

the town. Some of the finest quaUties are mingled
with others that are both shabby and "shoddy."
There is sharp, full development of all material
powers and excellencies ; wealth of practical qiial-
ity and force ; a recklessness and rioting with the
elements of prosperity ; much dash, a certain chiv-
alric honor combined with carelessness of word, of
integrity, of consequence ; a sort of gambling, spec-
ulating, horse-jockeying morality,— born of the un-
certainties of mining, its sudden hights, its equally
surprising depths, and the eager haste to be rich,—
that all require something of a re-casting of rela-
tionships, new standards, certainly new charities,
in order to get the unaccustomed mind into a state
of candor and justice. People, who know they are
smart in the East, and come out here thinking to
find it easy wool-gathering, are generally apt to go
home skorn. Wall Street can teach Montgomery
Street nothing in the way of "bulling" and "bear-
ing," and the "cor..ers" made here require both
quick and long breath to turn without faltering.

Men of mediocre quality are no better off here
than in older cities and States. Ten or fifteen
years of stern chase after fortune, among the mines
and mountains and against the new nature of this
original country, has developed men here with a
tougher and more various experience in all the tem-
poralities of life, and a wider resource for fighting all
sorts of "tigers," than you can easily find among the
present generation in the eastern States. Nearly
all the men of means here to-day have held long
and various struggle with fortune, failing once, twice

'A
fc
ai
h
n
tl

P
t(

P
it

tl
a
t
(
c
\

4ENT.

alities are mingled
by and "shoddy."
nt of all material
1 of practical qital-
id rioting with the
ash, a certain chiv-
sssness of word, of
t of gambling, spec-
\f, — born of the un-

1 hights, its equally
haste to be rich, —

L re-casting of rela-

linly new charities,

d mind into a state

who know they are

ut here thinking to

generally apt to go

teach Montgomery

bulling" and "bear-

! here require both

vithout faltering.

2 no better off here
es. Ten or fifteen
ne, among the mines
J new nature of this
;d men here with a
rience in all the tem-
source for fighting all
easily find among the
tern States. Nearly
•-day have held long
ne, failing once, twice

THE BUSINESS MEN OF SAN FRANCISCO. 293

or thrice and making wide wreck, but buckling on
the armor again and again, and trying the contest
over and over. So it is throughout the State and
the Coast; I have hardly met an old emigrant of
'49 and '50, who has not told me of vicissitudes of
fortune, of personal trials, and hard work for bread
and life, that, half-dreamed of before coming here,
he would never have dared to encounter, and which
no experience of persons in like position in life in
the East can parallel.

In consequence partly of all this training, and
partly of the great interests and the wide regions
to be dealt with, the men I find at the head of the
great enterprises of this Coast have great business
power, — a wide practical reach, a boldness, a sagac-
ity, a vim, that I do not believe can be matched
anywhere in the world. London and New York
and Boston can furnish men of more philosophies
and theories, — men who have studied business as a
science as well as practiced it as a trade, — but here
are the men of acuter intuitions and more daring
natures ; who cannot tell you why they do so and
so, but who will do it with a force that commands
success. Such men have built up and direct the
California Steam Navigation Company, that is to the
waters of this State what the Oregon Company u
to those of that, commanding the entire navigation
and furnishing most unexceptionable facilities for
trade and travel ; the California and Pioneer Stage
Companies, that equally command the stage travel
of the Coast ; the Woolen Mills of this city ; the
Wells & Fargo Express Company ; the great Ma-

^^-^^-'■■■^3i:^r~fKt^

294

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

chine Shops of Pacific street; the Pacific Mail
Steamship Company ; and the great private Bank-
ing Houses, of which there are many and most pros-
perous. Much British capital is invested in bank-
ing here ; nor only in original houses, but through
branches of leading bankers in London, India and
British Columbia. But chief of the banks is the
Bank of California, with two millions of capital,
divided into only forty shares of fifty thousand dol-
lars each, and owned by fewer than that number of
persons, who represent a total property of thirteen
millions (gold). This institution does about half
the banking business of the city, and its average
cash movement every steamer day, in shipments of
bullion and drafts, is five millions of dollars. It
keeps the best commercial and financial writer of
the Coast in its employ, has agents in all the centers
of productive wealth in the Pacific States, invests,
directly or indirectly, in most of the leading enter-
prises of the State, has an eye out for the politics
and religion of the country, and to a very consider-
able extent "runs" California every way.

But there is no institution of the Coast that has
interested me more than the Wells & Fargo Ex-
press. It is the omnipresent, universal business
agent of all the region from the Rocky Mountains
to the Pacific Ocean. Its offices are in every town,
far and near ; a billiard saloon, a restaurant, and a
Wells & Fargo office are the first three elements
of a Pacific or Coast mining town ; its messengers
are on every steamboat, and rail-car and stage, in
all these States. It is the Ready Companion of

TINENT.

:t; the Pacifc Mail
; great private Bank-
many and most pros-
is invested in bank-
houses, but through
n London, India and
' of the banks is the
> millions of capital,
of fifty thousand dol-
• than that number of
I property of thirteen
tion does about half
city, and its average
r day, in shipments of
iUions of dollars. It
,nd financial writer of
;ents in all the centers
Pacific States, invests,
t of the leading enter-
ye out for the politics
ind to a very consider-
L every way.
of the Coast "that has
e Wells & Fargo Ex-
nt, universal business
the Rocky Mountains
ices are in every town,
)n, a restaurant, and a
e first three elements
town ; its messengers
rail-car and stage, in
Ready Companion of

■ WELLS AND FARGO AS : ETTER-CARRIERS. 295

civilization, the Universal Friend and Agent of the
miner, his errand man, his banker,, his post-office.

.It is much more than an ordinary express com-
pany ; it does a general and universal banking busi-
ness, and a great one in amount ; it brings to market
all the bullion and gold from the mining regions, —
its statistics are the only reliable knowledge of the
production ; and it divides with the government the
carrying of letters to and fro.

In the latter respect its operations are very curi-
ous. Going along hand in hand with the rapidly
changing populations of the mining States, offering
readier and more various facilities than the. slower-
moving and circumscribed government machinery,
carrying the goods of the merchant and the bullion
of the miner, as well as their letters, it has grown
very much into the heart and habit of the people,
and even conveys many of the letters upon routes
that the government mail now goes as quickly and
as safely as the express company, though their cost
by the latter is much the greatest. The company
breaks none of the post-office laws, but pays the
government its full price for every letter it carries.
The process is thus : Wells & Fargo buy the post-
office envelopes bearing the government stamp, and
then put their own stamp or frank upon them, and
sell the same for ten cents each ; and in these en-
velopes, thus doubly stamped, all the letters by ex-
press are carried. Where the letters are above the
single rate, additional govcnment stamps are put
on and charged for by the company.
The extent of this business is showij by the facts

296

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

that Wells & Fargo bought of the govern. nent in
1863 over two millions of three-cent envelopes,
fifteen thousand of six-cent envelopes, and thirty
thousand of ten and eighteen-cent ones, besides
seventy thousand of extra three-cent stamps and
twe've thousand five hundred of six-cent ditto. In
1864, the business increased, as it has steadily all
along, and the three-cent envelopes bought and sold
by Wells & Fargu in that year were nearly two and
a quarter millions, and the extra stamps about one
hundred and twenty-five thousand. Thus all the
agencies of Wells & Fargo are private post-ofiices,
doing the business of the government better and
more satisfactorily than it does it itself, and paying
the government its full price for the same. One
long side of the great San Francisco office is de-
voted to this letter business; clerks wait courte-
ously, and at all hours, on all callers ; letters with
known or discoverable local addresses are delivered ;
and for the others, lists of those received each day
are regularly posted, so that any one can tell at once,
without inquiry, if there be anything for him. The
messengers of the company on stages and steam-
boats receive all letters under the appropriate en-
velopes, and the facilities of letter carriage they
aflford are much wider and more intimate than the
government gives.

This part of the business of Wells & Fargo is
very profitable, and its success, popularity and wide
extension, reaching through one hundred and sev-
enty-iive difi'erent towns and villages, and extending
as well to \\t newest mining regions in Idaho as to

t
1

£
I

I
t

I
1;
i
i
t

a
a
c

G
l

TINENT.

ROPBERIES OF THE MESSENGKkS.

297

)f the govern inent in
hrce-cent envelopes,
envelopes, and thirty
;n-cent ones, besides
iree-cent stamps and
of six-cent ditto. In
as it has steadily all
lopes bought and sold
r were nearly two and
tra stamps about one
usand. Thus all the
e private post-offices,
>vernment better and
;s it itself, and paying
: for the same. One
vrancisco office is dc-
; clerks wait courte-
1 callers; letters with
Idresses are delivered ;
3se received each day
ly one can tell at once,
lything for him. The
on stages and steam-
:r the appropriate en-
f letter carriage they
lore intimate than the

of Wells & Fargo is
is, popularity and wide
one hundred and sev-
villages, and extending
regions in Idaho as to

the chief cities of California,— even beyond and off
mail routes and post-offices, — jircscnt very effective
practical arguments for the government's giving up
wholly its post-office department. The main rea-
son offered against such abandonment has generally
been, that the sparsely settled States and widely
separated populations could not, by private enter-
prise, be served with their letters except at high
cost ; but this experience on the Pacific Coast more
than meets this. Private enterprise here does bet-
ter than the government, and is preferred to it.
Wells & Fargo even offered some years ago to do
the whole mail service of the Pacific Coast at five
cents a letter, provided the franking privilege was
abolished. They could doubtless perform it with
profit at three cents, and would if the business were
all secured to them.

The Wells & Fargo Express is mostly owned in
New York, but it is managed out here by men of
large business experience and great sagacity, and in
its enterprise and popular facilities not only strik-
ingly illustrates but greatly advances the civiliza-
tion of these States. Often it runs special treasure
wagons with escort, and frequently its messengers
are exposed to great peril from robbers and Indians.
Those from Idaho now have to ride wide awake,
day and night, with guns and pistols ready loaded
and cocked. The stages on which their messengers
and treasure were passing were stopped and robbed
on the road eight times during 1864; and several
serious robberies have also occurred this year, and
in one case a messenger was murdered. The man-
ia*

ACROSS niE CONTINENT.

agers of the express arc influential leaders and
movers in the opening of new routes and in estab-
lishing lines of stages ; even also are high powers ^
in the construction of railroads.

The success and extent of the Machine Shops
and Woolen Manufacture here in San Francisco
were also interesting* objects of observation. There
is no longer use or profit in importing machinery
from the East. As good, if not better, is made
here, and as cheap ; stean\ engines and boilers of
the highest g'ade ; and stamps and crushers and all
the various machinery for the mining regions. The
machine shops are mostly in a single street, and
must employ in the aggregate about one thousand
mechanics and laborers. One of the largest and
most complete of these establishments is owned
and conducted by Mr. Ira P. Rankin, formerly of
Boston and Northampton.

There are two large and successful Woolen Mills.
The oldest and most successful is the "Mission,"
the creation of an indomitable Scotch-Yankee, Mr.
Donald McLennan, who learned his business among
the mills of Middlesex County, Massachusetts, and
came out here some eight or ten years ago, with
only a few dollars in his pocket, but with a big cap-
ital of experience, industry and courage. His estab-
lishment is now worth over half a million dollars ;
consumed last year over one million pounds of
wool, and manufactured thirty-two thousand pairs
of blankets, near half a million yards of flannels,
and over one hundred thousand yards of cloths and
cloakings. The wool is all of California growth,—

'INENT.

uential Icadfrs and
routes and in cstab-
Iso arc high powers

the Machine Shops
•e in San Franciscc

observation. There
mporting machinery

not better, is made
gincs and boilers of
i and crushers and all
nining regions. The

a single street, and
I about one thousand
e of the largest and
blishments is owned

Rankin, formerly of

:ccssful Woolen Mills,
iful is the "Mission,"
e Scotch-Yankee, Mr.
cd his business among
y, Massachusetts, and
r ten years ago, with
et, but with a big cap-
d courage. His cstab-
half a million dollars ;
le million pounds of
ty-two thousand pairs
ion yards of flannels,
,nd yards of cloths and
f California growth,—

TTIE MISSION WOni.EN MILLS.

899

for this is a large and cheap wool-producing State ; —
the machinery, which includes eleven sets of cards,
thirty-five lunulred spindles and fifty broad power-
looms, is of the very best and most modern descrip-
tion, from England and the East ; and the goods
produced are of much variety of grade and style, in
order to suit and fdl the limited market here. The
blankets are the finest made anywhere in the United
States, perhaps in the world; certainly there are
none in the eastern markets to compare with them
either in thickness or softness ; and except for the
very finest of broadcloths and cassimere.s, these
mills are fast driving all woolen goods from the
East and from Europe out of this market. The
army and Indian departments on this Coast have
been laigely supplied with their blankets and cloth-
ing from this estabUshment during the last four
years; and the government officers testify that
these goods are of much superior quality to those
generally sent from the East.

One of the most interesting features of Mr.
McLennan's cstablishmeirt is that the work is
nearly all done by Chinamen, almost three hundred
being employed. A few whites arc only necessary
for the more intricate and skill-requiring processes,
and for superintending. The Chinese are found
much cheaper of course ; indeed the business could
not be carried on successfully here but for their
labor, which costs but one dollar and twelve cents
a day against two dollars and ninety-seven cents
for the whites employed ; and the superintendent
testifies that the difficulties of a first beginning

300

ACROaS THE CDNTININT.

with them were veiy speedily and fully overcome,
and they were found very quick to learn all the
details of the work, such as carding, spinning, weav-
inR, finishinR and wool-sorting. They live in a
large buiUliiig on the mill gr :)unds, and make the
most reliable, constant and valuable of factory

operatives.

The first cotton manufactory in California is just
finished and going into operation, over the bay in
Oakland, and will get its raw material from the
Mexican States, for the present at least. Success-
ful experiments in cotton raising on a large scale
have been made this season in southern California.

There is a great sugar refinery establishment in

San Francisco, drawing its materials for refining-
from the Sandwich Islands, which are fost coming
to be the exclusive source of sweetening for all
these Stat'js. — There arc also extensive lead and
iron and glass works. San Francisco enterprise
and capital are at the foundation of all these pioneer
manufactures; but success will soon extend and
multiply them over the State.

I dwell upon these particulars, these illustrations
of the enterprise and skill of this city and these
States, because they form the promise of the great
future. There is a sea-captain in your town, and
quite a young man, too, who used to come here for
hides, when only a single cabin marked the site of
San Francisco. Uow it has a population of over
one hundred thour,and, or nearly a q^uarter of the
whole State ; pays half the taxes of the State ; has
a larger foreign commerce than any city in the Na-

tu
foi
lif
tw
ci|
to
ni
sa
th
th
sti
wi
II
as
of
th
th

JNINT.

COMMERCE OP SAK FRANCISCO.

301

and fully overcome,
lick to learn all the
ling, spinnin;;-, weav-
g. They live in a
iintls, and make the
valuable of factory

f in California is just
lion, over the bay in
V material from the
it at least. Success-
sing on a large scale
I southern California,
lery establishment in
natcrials for refining-
hich are fost coming
if sweetening for all
3 extensive lead and
Francisco enterprise
)n of all these pioneer
vill soon extend and

tion but New York and Boston, its customs-revenue
fur the first six months of this year being three mil-
lions and a quarter dollars, and its port clearing
two hundred and thirty vessels of one hundred and
eighty-three thousand eight hundred and thirty-four
tons for foreign ports, and entering one hundred and
ninety vessels of one hundred and forty-nine thou-
sand seven hundred and forty-four tonnage during
the same time, besides a domestic shipping two-
thirds these figures ; aiid soon, within ten years, —
struggle as Boston may and grow as she will, — it
will divide commercial honors with New York alone.
Here is seat of empire, and of population, as great
as yours of the eastern States ; here the equal arm
of the American Nation ; and the.se men and means
that I have been describing are the beginnings of
the great and majestic cad.

xrs, these illustrations
f this city and these
: promise of the great
in in your town, and
used to come here for
in marked the site of
a population of over
;arly a quarter of the
Lxes of the State ; has
an any city in the Na-

"■€ s

LETTER XXVII.

MINING IN CALIFORNIA: ITS VARIETIES. RESULTS
AND TROSPECTS.

Mariposa, California, August 28.

We have been making our final studies of the
mining business of the Pacific States here among
Se mtnes and mills of the famous Mar.posa estate
of Colonel Fremont. Thus the occasjon is a proper
one to sum up my various notes and observations
n Ca i ornia on that subject, and so far as possible
represent the state of the business in the whole
eg on west of the Rocky Mountains. The gross
;7oductior. of gold and silver by all the^e S a es
was probably never greater than now. There are
no very exact figures to be had; those of Wells,
Fargo & Company's Express and the San Francisco
nitnt furnish the best data, and are before me in
detail They indicate a total yield for 1864 of abou
si^ty millio/s of dollars, and for this year at leas
an Jqual probably a greater sum, perhaps sixty fiv
or seventy millions. California ^^rself produce
now but about one-third of this amount, she h
fallen off from forty and fifty millions a year to
twenty and twenty-five; while Nevada now offe
from fifteen to twenty millions a year, mainly of

QUARTZ MINING AND SOIL DIGGINGS. 3O3

:xvii.

, VARIETIES, RESULTS
ECTS.

OSA, California, August 28.

ur final studies of the
fie States here among
imous Mariposa estate
the occasion is a proper
notes and ^observations
, and so far as possible
business in the whole
Mountains. The gross
;er by all these States
than now. There are
e had ; those of Wells,
5 and the San Francisco
., and are before me in
il yield for 1864 of about
id for this year at least
r sum, perhaps sixty-five
fornia herself produces
,f this amount; she has
fifty millions a year to
vhile Nevada now oflfers
llions a year, mainly of

silver ; Idaho and eastern Oregon sent forward nine
millions last year, and will probably increase this to
twelve or fifteen millions this year ; and the British
Provinces and Arizona furnish perhaps five millions.
The gold of Montana mainly finds its way east
through Colorado; but this is the first season of
any large production there. But the production of
all the States and Territories this side of the Rocky
Mountains comes to San Francisco ; one-third of it,
or about twenty millions, is coined at the United
States mint there ; and the rest is exported in bars
or dust, mainly in bars, to New York, China and
En.cfland, but chiefly now to England.

The western or California slopes of the Sierra
Nevada yield no silver ore, — here the mining is of
gold alone, and it is divided into two general classes ;
that which seeks the metal from the solid rock, or
quartz, and that which finds it in sand, gravel, or
soil. The former process is the universal and famil-
iar one of all rock mining, following the rich veins
into the bowels of the earth with pick and powder,
crushing the rock, and seducing the infinitesimal
atoms of metal from the dusty, powdered mass.

The accepted theory is that this is the original
form or dep 'i of the precious metals, — that the
gold found in gravel, sand or soil, — lying as it does
almost universally in the beds of rivers, dead or
alive, or under the eaves of the mountains, — has
been washed and ground out of the hard hills by
the action of the elements through long years.
Washing with water is the universal means of get-
ting at these deposits of the gold. But the scale

f:\it

304

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

on which this work is done, and the instnimentali-
ties of'application, vary, from the simple hand-pan
and pick and shovel of the individual and original
miner, operating along the banks of a lifile stream,
to grand combination enterprises for changing the
entire course of a river, running shafts down hun-
dreds of feet to get into the beds of long a^o
streams, and bringing water through ditches and
flumes and great pipes for ten or twenty miles,
wherewith to wash down a hill-side of golden gravel,
and get at its precious particles. The simple indi-
vidual pan-washers have mostly "moved on" for the
richer sands of Idaho and Montana; what of this
sort of gold seeking remains in California is in the
hands of patient and plodding "John Chinaman,"
who works over the neglected sands of his prede-
cessors, and is content to reap as harvest a dollar's

worth a day.

The other means are employed, on greater or less
scales of magnitude, by combinations of men and
capital. All the forms of gold washing run into
each other, indeed; and companies of two or three,
sometimes of Chinamen, with capitals of hundreds
of dollars, buy a sluice claim or seize a deserted
bed, and with shovel and pick and small stream of
water, run the sands over and over through the
sluice ways, and at end of day, or week, or month,
gather up the deposits of gold on the bottoms and
at the ends of their sluices. From this, opera-
tions ascend to a magnitude involving hundreds
of thousands, and employing hundreds of men as
partners or day laborers for the managers. Some-

•-^^^msm^

Wj&aav f-as?; ;*>viK«

[TINENT.

DEEP DIGGINGS AND HYDRAULIC MINING. 305

nd the instnimentali.

the simple hand-pan
idividual and original
inks of a little stream,
•ises for changing the
ing shafts down hun-
le beds of long a^o

through ditches and
ten or twenty miles,
1-side of golden gravel,
les. The simple indi-
tly " moved on " for the
lontana; what of this

in California is in the
ng "John Chinaman,"
2d sands of his predc-
ip as harvest a dollar's

oyed, on greater or less
nbinations of men and
;old washing run into
ipanies of two or three,
:h capitals of hundreds
im or seize a deserted
;k and small stream of
and over through the
lay, or week, or month,
jld on the bottoms and
;s. From this, opera-
de involving hundreds
g hundreds of men as
the managers. Some-

times, too, the enterprise is divided, and companies
are organized that furnish the water alone, and sell
it out to the miners or washers according to their
wants. The raising of auriferous sands and gravel
from the deeply covered beds of old streams, by
running down shafts and out tunnels into and
through such beds, and then washing them over, is
called " Deep Diggings," or " Bed-rock Diggings,"
and in their pursuit the bottoms of ancient rivers
will be followed through the country for mile after
mile, and many feet below the present surface of
the ea;th. The miners in this fashion go down till
they reach the bed-rock, along which the water orig-
inally ran, and here they find the richest deposits.

The other sort of heavy gold ;washing, employing
powerful streams of water to tear down and wash
out the soil of hill-sides that cover or hold golden
deposits, is known as " Hydraulic Mining." This is
the most unique and extensive process, involving
the largest capital and risk. The water is brought
from mountain lakes or rivers through ditches and
flumes, sometimes supported by trestle-work fifty
to one hundred icct high, to near the theater of
operations. Then it is let from flumes into large
and stout iron pipes which grow gradually smaller
and smaller; out of these it is passed into hose,
like that of a fire engine, and through this it is ^red
with a terrible force into the bank or bed of earth,
which is speedily torn down and washed with resist-
less, separating power, into narrow beds or sluices
in the lower valleys, and as it goes along these, hin-
dered and seducea at various points, the more solid

i,.

306

ACROSS THE CONTINr:JT.

gold pcarticles deposit themselves. Usual'y, in large
operations of this kind, the main stream of water
is divided in the final discharging hose into two or
more streams, which spout out into the hill-side as
if from several fire engines, only with immensely
more force. One of the streams would instantly
kill man or animal that should get before it, and
frequent fatal or half-fatal accidents occur from this
cause. Near Dutch Flat, where extensive hydraulic
mining is in progress, a water company taps lakes
twelve to twenty miles off in the mountains, and
turns whole rivers into its ditches ; and as further
illustration of its majestic operations, we learned
that it spent eighty thousand dollars in one year in
building a new ditch, and yet made and divided one
hundred and twenty thousand dollars in additional
profits that same year. Up near Yreka, in northern
California, a ditch thirty miles long, and costing
two hundred thousand dollars, was constructed for
this business ; but in this instance, the enterprise
did not prove profitable. Near Oroville, also, are
supposed rich gold banks and beds that only lack
water for development ; but to get this will require
ditches costing two hundred thousand dollars. The
citizens of the neighborhood are confident it would
be a richly-paying investment, however, and say the
chief reason why it is not entered upon is the lack
of certain laws regulating mining claims, and the
conflicts and doubt that are engendered by the neg-
lect of the government to establish the terms of
ownership in mining lands.

As it is now, squatter sovereignty is the substan-

tial

min

tern

occi

pun

is a

in f

not!

in i

eve

lati(

pro;

tair

will

ruk

the

clai

ent

mil

mi-

dee
Al
cor
fen
dol
is :
aft(
due
get
dol

)NTiNr:jT.

;lves. UsuDl'y, in large

main stream of water
irging hose into two or
3ut into the hill-side as
i, only with immensely
treams would instantly
ould get before it, and
:cidents occur from this
lere extensive hydraulic
ter company taps lakes

in the mountains, and
ditches ; and as further

operations, we learned
id dollars in one year in
2t made and divided one
ind dollars in additional

near Yreka, in northern
niles long, and costing
ars, was constructed for
instance, the enterprise

Near Oroville, also, are
and beds that only lack
t to get this will require
1 thousand dollars. The
)d are confident it would
;nt, however, and say the
entered upon is the lack

mining claims, and the
; engendered by the neg-
> establish the terms of

vereignty is the substan-

PROFITABLE GOLD WASHINGS,

307

tial law of mining properties; prospectors and
miners have established a few general rules for de-
termining the rights of each other ; and they, can
occupy and use the properties that they discover or
purchase, to a certain limited extent. No one man
is allowed to take up more than a certain amount
in feet or acres. The government so far has done
nothing with these mineral lands, whose fee is still
in itself, and gets no revenue from them. When-
ever cases of conflict come into court, the regu-
lations of the miners of the distric*:, where the
properties are located^ have been generally sus-
tained. But the apprehension that the government
will yet assume its rights, and establish different
rules for the possession and use of these lands, and
the uncertainty and controversies growing out of
the present loose ways of making and holding
claims, are undoubtedly a stumbling-block to large
enterprises, and an obstacle to the best sort of
mining progress and prosperity all through the
mi"eral country of this Coast.

The returns obtained in some cases of extensive
deep diggings and hydraulic mining are very great.
A thousand dollars a day is often washed out by a
company holding rich soil and employing a large
force ; and a run of several weeks averaging fifty
dollars and one hundred dollars a day to the hand
is frequently recorded. A single "cleaning up,"
after a few weeks' washing in a rich place, has pro-
duced fifty thousand dollars in gold dust and nug-
gets ; and in other cases, even one hundred thousand
dollars is reported. These are the extreme cases

3o8

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

of good fortune, however ; other enterprises are run
with a loss, or with varying result ; but the gold
washings, as a gei>eral thing, are paying good wages
and a fair return to the capital invested.

Of course all these operations create a wide waste
wherever they drc going on, and have been in
progress. Tornado, flood, earthquake and volcano
combined could hardly make greater havoc, spread
wider ruin and wreck, than are to be seen every-
where in the path of the larger gold-washing oper-
ations. None of the interior streams of California,
though naturally pure as crystal, escape the change
to a thick yellow mud, from this cause, early in
their progress out of the hills. The Sacramento is
worse than the Missouri. Many of the streams are
turned out of their original channels, either directly
for mining purposes, or in consequence of the great
masses of soil and gravel that come down from the
gold-washings above. Thousands of acres of fine
land along their banks are ruined forever by the
deposits of his cha '■^er. There are no rights
which mining respects m California. It is the one
supreme interest. A farmer iiay have his whole
estate turned to a barren waste by a flood of sand
and gravel from some hydraulic mining up stream ;
more, if a fine orchard or garden stands in the way
of the working of a rich gulch or bank, orchard and
garden must go. Then the torn-down, dug-out,
washed to pieces and then washed over side-hills,
that have been or are being hydraulic-mined, are
the very devil's chaos, indeed. The country is full
of them among the mining districts of the Sierra

Neva
upon
a bra
ilhisti
when
now (
"Yut
conni
out t
teur, ;
poun(
minci
Th
neigh
in th
and !
and I
mous
ful ar
arour
ty, w
gion.
impoi
' did r
signs
quart
ley, a
dollai
and t
work
on th
ccssfi

ONTINENT.

ther enterprl.es are run
g result; but the gold
, are paying good wages
ital invested,
ions create a wide waste
on, and have been in
earthquake and volcano
:e greater havoc, spread
1 are to be seen every-
rger gold-washing oper-
or streams of California,
ystal, escape the change
om this cause, early in
ills. The Sacramento is
Many of the streams are
channels, either directly
:onsequence of the great
hat come down from the
ousands of acres of fine
e ruined forever by the
There are no rights
California. It is the one
ler 1 lay have his whole
ivaste by a flood of sand
aulic mining up stream ;
jarden stands in the way
ilch or bank, orchard and
the torn-down, dug-out,
X washed over side-hills,
ing hydraulic-mined, are
;ed. The country is full
g districts of the Sierra

YUBA DAM — GRASS VALLE^QUARTZ MINES. 309

Nevada foot-hills, and they are truly a terrible blot
upon the face of nature. The valley of the Yuba,
a branch of the Sacramento, was one of the worst
illustrations our journeying has presented; and
when we came to the sign over the "grocery" of a
now deserted mining camp, indicating that this was
"Yuba Dam," we thought of the famous anecdote
connected with this name, from its repetition, with-
out the benefit of spelling, to an inquiring colpor-
teur, and were fain to confess that the profane com-
pound fairly represented the spirit of the lawless
miner.

The gold quartz mines are mostly in the same
neighborhoods with present or past gold-washings ;
in the hills back and abeve the rich stream beds
and gravel banks. Nevada County in the north,
and Mariposa in the south, have been the most fa-
mous counties for this interest. The most success-
ful and noteworthy operations of it now are in and
around the town of Grass Valley, in Nevada Coun-
ty, which has always been a profitable mining re-
gion. It seemed almost the only mining town of
importance in California, that we visited, which
♦ did not have vacant stores and houses, and show
signs of decrepitude. There are now about twenty
quartz mills in successful operation in Grass Val-
ley, and the ore they work yields from ten to fifty
dollars a ton ; occasionally as high as one hundred
and two hundred dollars. The cost of mining and
working is from six to ten dollars a ton, depending
on the facilities of mine and mill. Among the suc-
cessful miners and capitalists here, is Mr. S. D.

310 ACROSS^THE CONTINENT,

Bosworth, from West Springfield and Springfield,
who now occupies the ccltage which the notorious
Lola Montez built -nd lived in for several years.
She came here to perform for the miners in 1854,
and staid to ruin one husband, and change him for
another. She led a rollicking life here» and the
town is full of scandals concerning her. Intelli-
gent gentlemen who piet her confess to her intel-
lectual power and impressive conversation, and to
her fascinating manners. Grass Valley also boasts
an old horse that goes around alone with a milk-
wagon, stopping before the doors of his customers,
and nowhere else, and delivering his daily allow-
ances to each with unvarying fidelity. But the
really wonderful thing about this story is that Grass
Valley should have a population that can be trusted
to help themselves to milk, and not take, any of
them, more than their allotted share. The mines
here are receiving enlarged attention just now, and
extensive new investments are being made, both in
Grass Valley and the neighboring town of Nevada.
But here in Mariposa County, the interest has a
different look, and affairs are in a desperate condi-
tion. There are in all ten quartz mills here, all or
nearly all on the Fremont estate, but only two or
three are now running, and these with moderate re-
sults. The villages are decreasing in population ;
the best people are going away; viciousness of all
sorts seems to be increasing; and highway robber-
ies are of almost nightly occurrence. The great
Mariposa mining company, formed in Wall street
two years ago with a capital of ten millions, a deot

of tv

SUCCI

style
most
Fred
undc
affai)
homi
tion
over
tors
on a
mula
in 01
obta:
lars
gin(
cent
his 1
frien
Thei
weal
has 1
byp
capil
as a
alon^
agn
V cont
iVlraw
usefi
Prin

NTINENT,

jfield and Springfield,
e which the notorious
1 in for several years,
r the miners in 1854,
id, and change him for
ing Hfe here, and the
ncerning her. Intclli-
;r confess to her intcl-
e conversation, and to
Irass Valley also boasts
und alone with a milk-
doors of his customers,
ivering his daily allow-
ing fidelity. But the
this story is that Grass
,tion that can be trusted
:, and not take, any of
tted share. The mines
attention just now, and
are being made, both in
boring town of Nevada,
unty, the interest has a
re in a desperate condi-
quartz mills here, all or
estate, but only two or
these with moderate re-
creasing in population;
away ; viciousness of all
g ; and highway robber-
occurrence. The great
r, formed in Wall street
il of ten millions, a debt

THE MARIPOSA ESTATE — ITS RUINS.

311

of two millions, and not a cent of ready cash, —
succeeding to General Fremont's property and his
style of doing business, — has come to grief. Its
most worthy superintendent and manager, Mr.
Frederic Law Olmsted, who was beguiled out here
under a gross misapprehension of the situation of
affairs, and the duties he was to perform, is going
home disgusted, to resume more congenial occupa-
tion in the East; the sheriff has been brooding
over the estate for six months ; and its local credi-
tors are running one or two of its mills and mines,
on a close and economical scale, — using up accu-
mulated materials, but laying in no new supplies, —
in order to obtain their claims. The ore now being
obtained and thus worked returns from seven dol-
lars to ten dollars a ton, which gives a small mar-
gin of profit. It is all a sad, vast ruin, — a magnifi-
cent gentleman, holding his head high, but wearing
his last year's clothes, and dining around with his
friends, — a sort of grand land and mine Micawber.
There is doubtless life and value, possibly great
wealth, in it still, but not of the sort or degree that
has been set up for it. Divided up, and conducted
by private parties or small companies on a moderate
capital, as the Grass Valley mines are, or managed,
as a whole even, with an eye to practical results
alone, arid no such side issues as the presidency, or
a grand Wall street stock-jobbing operation, or the
V control of California politics, depending on it, and
iVlrawing its life-blood, the estate may yet have a
useful future before it. But the end to it as a grand
Principality, as an exhaustless Fountain for political

312

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

and financial jobbing, seems surely to have come.
Indeed, its most striking capacity always has been
in carrying an immense, a magnificent mdebted-
ness. A few men are rich from it here and m the
East • but their wealth is more from the sale of
stock and bonds in New York, than the profits of
its mines in Mariposa. The illustration of the
whole lies best, perhaps, in the sincere boast at-
tributed to its most gallant but never thntty origi-
nal owner. "Why," said General Fremont, "when
I came to California, I was worth nothing, and now
I owe two millions of dollars !"

There are no very reliable statistics as to the ex-
tent of the quartz-mining interest of California, or
of its comparative results by the side of the gold-
washings. The estimate of a prominent authority
before me place* the number of quartz-mills in the
State at six hundred, their cost at twelve million
dollars, and their product, on an average of ten dol-
lars to the ton of ore, at eighteen millions of dollars
a year. But these figures are clearly wide of the
fact; there can hardly be over one hundred quartz-
mills, properly so called, in all California; and they
do not divide the State's product with the gold-
washers equally. Mining in California, of all kinds,
is now much more systematically and intelligently
conducted than ever before. It is losing its waste-
ful, gambling characteristics. In 1 862, it apparently
had its greatest production; the returns for 1864
were only about half as much ; and probably this
year will show no gain upon the last. The interest
is, on the whole, at the ebb tide. But the risks of

TINENT.

surely to have come,
icity always has been
(lagnificcnt indebtcd-
om it here and in the
lore from the sale of
k, than the profits of
je illustration of the
the sincere boast at-
lut never thrifty origi-
leral Fremont, "when
orth nothing, and now

statistics as to the cx-
terest of California, or
r the side of the gold-
a prominent authority
■ of quartz-mills in the
cost at twelve million
an average of ten dol-
teen millions of dollars
ire clearly wide of the
er one hundred quartz-
ill California; and they
product with the gold-
California, of all kinds,
tically and intelligently
It is losing its waste-
In 1862, it apparently
; the returns for 1864
ich ; and probably this
I the last. The interest
tide. But the risks of

THE IDAHO MINES.

313

the business will henceforth be less than heretofore ;
the cost of production is cheaper here than in the
newer and more remote fields; new and valuable
fields are being discovered and opened among the
Sierras ; and I am inclined to the belief that invest-
ments in mining in California can be made with
better results, at least with more certainty of profit,
if less possible gains, than in any of the fresher and
more fashionable regions.

The Idaho mines are perhaps exciting the most
interest at present among the people of the Coast ;
and they are also beginning to divide enticements
with those of Nevada and Colorado,, for eastern
speculators and capitalists. Some reliable facts
about them, which I have from original sources,
will not be amiss therefore, and servt; to complete
my general review of the mining developments of
this whole region. The Boise Basin district is still
rich in gold-washings, and is perhaps the richest
region in that respect yet worked anywhere in the
West. It has also rich quartz veins, and there are
already eight mills in operation there, with eighty-
four stamps. South Boise is less rich in placer dig-
gings, but has an even larger development of the
quartz interest. The ' uUion (gold) here holds a
large proportion of silver, and is not worth over
fourteen dollars an ounce. The Owyhee district
borders on Oregon, and its mining wealth runs
over into that State. The ore here is like that in
Nevada, having more silver than gold in it. There
are six mills now in this district, one of them with
thirty stamps. The veins in Boise Basin and South
14

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

\^m

Boise are small, like those of Reese River, in Nc
vada, opening sometimes as low as four inches, but
enlarging generally to four or five feet. The
"Mammoth Vein" is from three to twelve feet
wide ; the ore is generally free and simi)le, and is
worked without roasting. The yield is from forty
dollars a ton up ; one vein runs from forty to eighty
dollars ; and others have yielded from two hundi cd
to three hundred dollars a ton. It is not probable
that the full value of the ore is obtained by tin-
present means of working, and the tailings arc

saved.

The country is very barren, having the same
general characteristics as eastern Oregon and Ne-
vada. There are some good valleys, and timber is
plenty enough for the present save in the Owyhee
district. The price of labor is six dollars a day,
and goods and provisions are in proportion. The
population is made up mostly of the floating mining
elements of California, Oregon and Nevada; the
men who are always moving on for the newest
mines; prosperous to-day, poor to-morrow. The
winters in Idaho are severe, and the work in the
placer diggings is then suspended. The miners
float back to the older towns, to The Dalles and Port-
land in Oregon, and San Francisco, in the fall, and
spend there their summer savings, and start out
again in the spring for the old diggings, if no newer
and more fabulous ones have been since discovered.
Taking these figures as reliable as statements
about mines generally are from those engaged in
the business, I do not see that Idaho really offers

ITINENT.

Rccsc River, in Nc-
)w as four inches, but

or five feet. The
three to twelve feet
lie and simple, and is
lie yield is IVom forly
lis from forty to eighty
Jed from two hundicil
a. It is not probable
•e is obtained by tin-

and the tailings ar*'

ren, having the same
stern Oregon and Nc-

valleys, and timber is
\t save in the Owyhee
r is six dollars a day,
re in proportion. The
{ of the floating mining
gon and Nevada; the
ng on for the newest
poor to-morrow. The
e, and the work in the
spended. The miners
, to The Dalles and Port-
ancisco, in the fall, and

savings, and start out
Id diggings, if no newer
e been since discovered.

reliable as statements
from those engaged in
that Idaho really offers

CALIFORNIA 3 AUVANTAUE FOR MINING. 31$

any better inducements for emigration and capital
than Nevada and Colorado. It is probable my
statements relate to the best veins, that the average
will fall below these rates of production, and that
the permanent prosperity of the mining interests
and the sure progress of the State will await the
profitable working of ores yielding from ten dollars
to twenty-five dollars a ton, as is already adr Uted to
be true for California, and for Virginia City, Nevada,
and will probably soon be proven in Reese River
and in Colorado. And this can hardly be done
until quicker and cheaper communication is pro-
vided. Only the rare veins, only the choice ore in
any of these States can be worked to much profit,
so long as all machinery, all food, all goods, used in
the business and for the people, have to pay a freight
tariff of ten to thirty cents a pound, and labor is
from four to eight dollars a day. Caliibrnia has the
advantage over her rivals in those respects now;
and I repeat that it seems to mc mining is likely to
be as profitable in this State for the next five years,
taking all things into consideration, as in any of the
newer regions. The others must wait for the rail
road to give real and permanent and steady develop-
ment and prosperity to greater apparent capacities.
Do not complain, my reader, that this letter is
getting dull with dry fact and statistics ; consider
the mass of figures and " disgusting details " that
I have before me, and have spared you, and be
gratelul : and come now with me, and let us have
the sensation of a visit into the abyssmal depths of
the mines themselves. Our party have done con-

3l6 ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

siderable of this descending into mines in our prog-
ress across the country; for it became occasion
of reproach and doubt of our intelligent future
judgment, if we failed to go down into every
miner's particular pet hole. Over in Austin, we
had amuiing experience in this regard. We were
to stay but three days there. But that is nothing,
said the disappointed people; you. can't begin to
see our mines in that time ; you better have staid
away. Well, come on, was the reply; show us
what you can in three days, and then let us see
what is left that is new and strange. So we mount-
ed ; and there was an extensive cavalcade of local
officials, practical miners, speculators, and genteel
bummers generally. We went over and around
hills, down into mines, through mills, everywhere
that our guides led us ; finding naturally great sim-
ilarity of sights and testimony everywhere. By
afternoon, our hosts had dwindled one-Lalf. The
next morning, instead of a dozen, we had but three
or four guides ; at noon, they were reduced to one,
and at night we had exhausted not only his strength
,.iQ patience, but all he had to show us. We had
seen /ustin and its mines, and had a day to spare!
The lewer mines, whose shafts are but fifty or
one hundred feet, are descended by a simple rope
and bucket, worked by a common hand windlass ;
older and deeper ones, by the same contrivance,
with steam power: if, as is often the case, the vein
runs at an angle, or Is reached below in that way, a
little car runs down a steep track, held and drawn by
a heavy rope and steam engine; while other shafts

4T1NENT,

ito mines in our prof
r it became occasion
our intelligent future
go down into every
Over in Austin, we
his regard. We were

But that is nothing,
;; you. can't begin to
you better have staid
, the reply; show us
I, and then let us see
trange. So we mount-
live cavalcade of local
>eculators, and genteel
rent over and around
lugh mills, everywhere
ng naturally great sim-
lony everywhere. By
vindled one-Lalf. The
lozen, we had but three
y were reduced to one,
:d not only his strength
I to show us. We had
ind had a day to spare!

shafts are but fifty or
;nded by a simple rope
ommon hand windlass ;

the same contrivance,
often the case, the vein
led below in that way, a
rack, held and drawn by
jine ; while other shafts

INTO THE GOULD AND CURRV MINE. 317

are provided with ladders, winding around, or set
perpendicularly up and down. The latest, and
safest and readiest contrivance for descending a
perpendicular shaft is a cage or box, let down by a
rope with steam power, but provided with sharp,
opening arms that, in case the rope breaks, will
catch into the walls with such power as to hold the
cage and its load. Its certainty was proven to us
by cutting the rope with an ax, when the cage sent
out its fingers ar.d clung midway in its passage.
We reached the insides of other mines by long
tunnels, running into the veins from the surface, far
down the hill-sides on which they were located.
The dee-est worked mine on the Pacific Coast is
in Amador County, this State, and is eight hundred
feet down ; but some of those over in Nevada are
fast approaching this depth; and the latter have
the most extensive chambers below the surface of
any in the country. The Gould & Curry mine, for
instance, has several miles length of tunnels and
shafts, and it is a full half day's journey to travel
through it entirely.

We entered this mine through a long tunnel, that
strikes the vein several hundred feet below the
surface. There were half a dozen of us in the pro-
cession, each with a lighted candle, which would go
out under the out-going draft, and so we soon con-
tented ourselves with grouping along in the dim,
cavernous light. It seemed a very long journey,
and the nerves had to brace themselves. The most
stolid person, stranger to such experience, will hard-
ly fail to find hft heart beating a little quicker, as

■'M

»■"■■

318

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

he goes into these far-away, narrow recesses in the
bowels of the earth. I never failed to remember
the principle that "nature abhors a. vacuum," and
to wonder if she wouldn't take the present occasion
to close up this little one that I was in. At last we
reached the scenes of the ore and the work after U ;
and among these we clambered and wandered about,
down shafts to this or that level, and then out on
side tunnels through the vein in both directions;
up again by narrow, pokerish ladders to a higher
set of chambers, in and out, up and down, till we
were lost in amazing confusion. Here was, indeed,
a city of streets and population far under the surface
of the earth. Many of the chambers or streets
were deserted ; in others we found little coteries of
miners, picking away at the hard rock, and loading
up cars of the ore, that were sent out by the tunnels
and up by the shafts to the surface above. Here,
too, was a building in a AVide hall under ground,
and steam engine to help on the work. Some of
the chambers had closed in after being worked out
of ore ; others have been filled up to prevent caving
in and causing great disaster overhead; but many
of the open passages were stayed or braced open
still with huge frame work of timber ; more lumber,
indeed, as I have told you, I believe, is used for this
purpose in this single mine, than has been put into
all the buildings of Virginia City itself, with its ten
thousand to fifteen thousand inhabitants. And m
many of the passages, such is the outward pressure
into the vacuum, that these timbers, as big as a
man's body, are bent and splintered almost in two.

TINENT.

irrow recesses in the
: failed to remember
ihors a. vacuum," and
; the present occasion
I was in. At last we
and the work after it ;
i and wandered about,
jvel, and then out on
n in both directions;
1 ladders to a higher
up and down, till we
n. Here was, indeed,
n far under the surface

chambers or streets
found little coteries of
tiard rock, and loading
sent out by the tunnels
surface above. Here,
ie hall under ground,
n the work. Some of
ifter being worked out
id up to prevent caving
r overhead ; but many
stayed or braced open

timber ; more lumber,
believe, is used for this
than has been put into
.City itself, with its ten
i inhabitants. And in
is the outward pressure
ie timbers, as big as a
plintered almost in two.

COMING OUT OF THE MINE.

3>9

Great pine sticks, eighteen inches square, were
thus bent, like a bow, or yawned with gaping splin-
ters ; and the spaces left in some places for us to
go through were in this way reduced so small that
we almost had to crawl to get along.

Do you wonder that we began to grow weary, and
thought we had seen enough? Besides, the mine
was oppressively hot and close ; the mercury was
up to one hundred degrees and more, and the sweat
poured from us like water. One of our party grew
faint and feeble, and we voted to take the near-
est way out. This happened to be the most peril-
ous and trying ; but we did not realize that, and
our miner guide, unsensitive from experience, did
not think of it. So he started us into a long shaft,
running straight up and down for several hundreds
of feet, dark and damp as night, with no breaks or
landing places, and set us going one after another,
up a perpendicular ladder fastened to its side. We
only took in a sense of the thing after we had got
started ; each must carry his lighted candle, hold
on, and creep ahead ; a single misstep by any
one, the fainting of our invalid, or of any of us, all
weary and unstrung, would not only have plunged
that one headlong down the long fatal flight, to be-
come a very Mantilinean cold body at the bottom,
but would have swept everybody below him on the
ladder, like a row of bricks, to the same destination
and destruction. There was, you may well believe,
a stern summoning of all remaining strength and
nerves, a close, firm grip on the rounds of the lad-
der, a silent, grave procession, much and rapid

320

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

thought, and a very long breath, and a very fervent
if voiceless prayer, when we got to the daylight and
tne top. Our part of the shaft and the ladder was
about one hundred and fifty ^eet; it seemed very
long ; and we were content to call our day's work
done when it was over. Brains won the victory
over body ; but both were weary enough at the end.
. ~5ut if I prolong this story : y further, you will
almost-, wish I had never got out of that shaft I

SO'

ani
of
H(

Tl-
cis
m\
ho
en
foi
Ai
m
m:
yo

Sa
yo
ou

riNENT.

h, and a very fervent
)t to the daylight and
t and the ladder was
feet; it seemed very
call our day's work
tins won the victory
ry enough at the end.
J y further, you will
xi of that shaft I

LETTER XXVIII.

SOCIAL LIFE IN SAN FRANCISCO: THE WOMEN i
RELIGION AND MINISTERS.

San Francisco, August 3a
You must be a very indifferent sort of person,
and have no friends, to escape during the first week
of a visit here an invitation to drive out to the Cliff
House for breakfast and a sight of the sea-lions.
This is the one special pet dissipation of San Fran-
cisco, the very trump card in its hospitality. A
night among the Chinese houses and gambling
holes is reserved as a choice tit-bit for the pruri-
ently curious few ; but the Cliff and the seals are
for all ages and conditions of men and women.
And, indeed, this is a very pleasan% reviving ex-
cursion. A drive of five or six milts, along a hard-
made road over the intervening sand-hills, brings
you out to the broad Pacific, rolling in and out,
"wide as waters be." You strain your eyes for
Sandwich Islands and China, — they are right before
you ; no object intervenes, and you feel that you
ought to see them. Just at the right, around the
corner, is the Golden Gate ; and vessels are passing
in and out the bay. A rare cliff rock places you

14* "

I , I-

322

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

beyond the sands, within the ocean ; and a f,ne hotel
on its very edge offers every hospitality— at a price.
Out upon half a dozen fragmentary rocks, like
solid castles moored in the ocean below and before,
are the seals and the pelicans. The rocks are cov-
ered and alive with them. You remember Barnum s
seals at New York and Boston, don't you?— great
sleek and slimy amphibious calves,-all bodies, small
heads and short, webby feet,-bobbing up and down
in their water tanks, and most making you weep
with their large, Uquid human eyes, like a hunger-
ing, sorrowing woman's ? Well, here is their native
water and rock; from these rocks they were cap-
tured, and here by twenties and fifties you see their
relations. Crawling up from the water, awkwardly
and blunderingly like babe at its first creeping, they
spread themselves in the sun all over the rocks
twenty and thirty feet high sometimes, and he there
asif comatose; anon raising the head to look abo^.
and utter a rough, wide-soundmg bark; ol.cn two
or three, by reason of a fresh squatter on their ter-
ritory, get into combat, and strike and bite languidly
at one another, barking and grumbling meanwhie
like long-lunged dogs; and again, tired of discard
or weary of heaven, they plunge, with more of spring
than they do anything else, back into the deep se.
An opera-glass brings them close to you upon the
hotel'pia-a, and there is a singular fascm^-; -
sitting and watching their performances They je
of all sizes from fifty pounds weigh up to two hun
dred and three hundred. Sea gulls and pelicans
the latter huge and awkward in flight as turkeys.

in
tl-
ri
s\
fc
ri
b
u
f(
ri
a

ITINENT.

cean ; and a ♦'.ne hotel
ospitality — at a price,
igmentary rocks, like
;ean below and before,
i. The rocks are cov-
lu remember Barnum's
:on, don't you ?— great
lives,— all bodies, small
-bobbing up and down
lost making you weep
m eyes, like a hunger-
ell, here is their native
: rocks they were cap-
ind fifties you see their
I the water, awkwardly
t its first creeping, they
,un all over the rocks,
sometimes, and He there
; the head to look about
inding bark ; olicn two
ih squatter on their ter-
strike and bite languidly
i grumbling meanwhile
I again, tired of discord
nge, with more of spring
back into the deep sea.
n close to you upon the
I singular fascination in
jerformances. They are
is weight up to two hun-

Sea gulls and pelicans,
ard in flight as turkeys.

THE PACIFIC BEACH— "SOCIETY.

323

dispute possession of the rocks ; resting in great
flocks, or with loud flaps flying around and around,
overlooking the water for passing food.

Weary of these sights, the visitor seeks neighbor-
ing charming coves among the rocks below, and lies
there out of the wind, watching the rolling waves
rising and breaking over the island rocks, and
sweeping in up the seducing sands to toy with his
fefct. And again, mounting horse or carriage, he
rides swiftly and smoothly along the neighboring
broad beach of hard sand for several miles; the
unbroken, wide-reaching, long-rolling ocean is be-
fore his sight; and his horse's feet dance in merry
race with the incoming surf ;— and thus solemnly
awed with ocean expanse, alteriiate with dainty
titillation of amused senses, he closes his charming
half day at the Cliflf.

"Society" in this representative town of the Pa-
cific Coast is somewhat difiicult of characterization.
It holds in chaos all sorts of elements ; the very
best, and the very worst, and all between. There
is much of New York in it, much of St. Louis and
Chicago, and a good deal that is original and local ;
born of wide separation from the centers of our
best social civilization; of the dominating materi-
alism and masculineism of all life here; of compar-
ative lack of homes and families and their influences.
There are probably more bachelors, great, lusty fel-
lows, who ought to be ashamed of themselves, living
in hotels or in "lodgings," in this town, than in any
place of its size in the world. There is want of
femininity, spirituality in the current tone of the

ft'

i.*m

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

place ; lack of reverence for women ; fewer women
to reverence, than our eastern towns are accustomed
to. You hear more than is pleasant of private
scandals ; of the vanity and weakness of women ;
of the infideUty of wives. "It is the cussedest
place for women," said an observant Yankee citizen,
some two or three years from home, and not forget-
ful yet of mother, sister and cousin.— "a town of
men and taverns and boarding-houses and billiard-
saloons."

Yet there seem to be plenty, of women,— such
as they are; and Montgomery Street will otfer the
promenader as many pretty and striking faces, per-
haps more in proportion, than Washington Street
or Broadway. But the dominating qtiality, like
mercy, is not strained ; it savors of the mannish-
ness, the materialism, the "fastness" and the "loud-
ness" of the country; and paradoxical as it may
appear, by contrast with eastern society, the men
seem of a higher grade than the women,— better
for men than the latter as women. Nor is this in-
consistent with reason ; the men, dealing with great
practical necessities and duties, are less harmed, on
the whole, by the dominant materialism of life here,
than the women, whose pressing responsibilities
are lower and fewer;— as a fine, delicate blade is
more roughened in cutting the way through bram-
ble and brush than a tough and broader edge.

All which is not only natural, but inevitable. In
all new countries, where the first fight is for life
and wealth with rough nature, the masculine qual-
ity must ever be dominant ; and the feminine ele-

INENT.

HOW THE LADIES DRESS.

325

men ; fewer -Aromen
wns are accustomed
pleasant of private
weakness of women ;
It is the cussedest
vant Yankee citizen,
ome, and not forget-
lousin, — "a town of
-houses and billiard-

ty of women, — such
Street will offer the
d striking faces, per-
i Washington Street
inating qtiality, like
'ors of the mannish-
ness"and the "loud-
aradoxical as it may
em society, the men
the women, — better
nen. Nor is this in-
en, dealing with great
s, are less harmed, on
iterialism of life here,
ssing responsibilities
fine, delicate blade is
le way through bram-
id broader edge,
al, but inevitable. In
first fight is for life
:, the masculine qual-
and the feminine ele-

ments must be influenced by it, more than they in-
fluence it in turn. The senses rule the spirit. All
civilization, all progress tends to the increase of the
feminine element in our nature, and in life ; con-
trast the centuries, and we see it creeping in every-
where, in men and women alike, in religion, in in-
tellectual culture, in art, in social intercourse, — •
softening, refining, hallowing, — the atmosphere of
all modern life pictures. Women, who possess and
represent this blossom of our civilization, are by
no means wanting here, — no more perfect speci-
mens have I ever met anywhere ; tender, tasteful,
true ; and gaining in aggregate influence over so-
ciety day by day ; but yet not to-day representing
or making what is called " society."

The ladies generally dress in good taste. Paris
is really as near San Francisca as New York, and
there are many foreign famil'es here. But the styles
are not so subdued as in our eastern cities ; a high-
er or rather louder tone prevails ; rich, full colors,
and sharp contrasts; the startling effects that the
Parisian demi-monde seeks, — these are seen dor"i-
nating here. In costliness of costume, too, there n*
apparent rivalry among the San Francisco ladies.
Extravagance is lamented as a common weakness
among them, and leading, where fortune is so fickle
as here, to many a worse one often. Perhaps in no
other American city. would the ladies invoice so
high per head as in San Francisco, when they go
out to the opera, or to party, or ball. Their point
lace is deeper, their moire antique stiffer, their skirts
a trifle longer, their corsage an inch lower, their

f
fi

■; , is

326

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

diamonds more brilUant.-and more of them. -than
the cosmopolite is likely to find elsewhere.

AnotheJ "society" item, and we -U. pa- on-
The common dining hour being five and s.xo clock,
the women are denied the fhet.c go^sj^^Mng tea^
party, so peculiar to New Lngland. The lunch
party" is their substitute, and a famous feature of
Cinine social life it is. The hour .s from h.gh
noon to two o'clock, when the men are busy at thur
work, and the women have this dissipation all to
themselves. Richer and more various as a meal
Ire the U:nches than the teas they substitute ; the
eating and attendant gossiping often absorb a whole
afternoon, leaving the participants appetiteless. it >s
true, for the family dinner, but with what comp n-
sating nuterial for garnishing the meal for the
household! I have never even so much as seen
throth a crack in the door one of these Califorma
femile lunch parties ; but confidential confessions
lead me to gi.'. ^hem a high place m the social fea-
tures and dfstractions of the life of the town And
yet for high art in the line of the delicate but in-
dustrious scandal-mongering and the virtuous plot-
ting against masculine authority, that we are wont
to attribute to these exclusive gathenngs of our
dear Srs. it does still seem to me that the New
England conjunction of twilight and green hyson
are much more favorable. Doubtless, these Cali-
fornia Eves are bolder in their habits, as becomes
their life and the grosser evils they are the victims
of; but how much more daintily and dehcately the
stiletto and Ike tongue, the knitting-needle and the

INliNT.

nore of thcin,— than
[ elsewhere,
id we will pass on.
; five and six o'clock,
'hetic, gossiping tca-
igland. The "lunch

a famous feature of
je hour is from high
men are busy at their
his dissipation all to
re various as a meal
i they substitute ; the
; often absorb a whole
ants appctiteless, it is
it with what compen-
ig the meal for the
iren so much as seen
ne of these California
onfidential confessions
place in the social fca-
lifeof thetown. And
jf the delicate but in-
and the virtuous plot-
)rity, that we are wont
ive gatherings of our
tn to me that the New
light and green hyson

Doubtless, these Cali-
leir habits, as becomes
ils they are the victims
ntily and delicately the
knitting-needle and the

THE NEW ENGLAND SPIRIT DOMINANT. 32/

eye can do their sweet work under a little softening
of the shadows and the inspiration of hot tea on a
stomach that has already done its duty for the day !

In affairs of public morals, and education and re-
ligion, there is much activity in San Francisco, and
a healthy progress in the right direction is visibly
constant. The New England elements arc clearly
dominant here and through the whole Pacific Coast
region ; softened from their old Puritanic habits, —
marrying themselves to the freer and more sensuous
life of a new country with a cosmopolitan popula-
tion, but still preserving their best qualities of de-
cency, of order, of justice, of constant progress
upward in morality and virtue. The "Pikes" were
the first people all over this country,— emigrants
from Missouri, to which again they had been emi-
grants from the southern States, — and, joined to
some direct importations from the home of the
chivalry, they gave tone to society, and law, or
rather want of law, to the government of city and
State. But the Vigilance Committee revolution of
ten years ago, — a mob in the interest of justice and
orderand morality, — inaugurated a new era. That
was the North against the South, — the clash of
their civilizations ; and the North, seizing the in-
strumentalities of violence, rose and destroyed vio-
lence itself. Since then, there has been a steady,
though struggling and sometimes hesitating, im-
provement in the character of all the life of city
and Coast.

Ambition and pride in the things that are re-
spectable and proper are singularly prominent ; and

328

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

men contribute lavishly to build fine school-houses
and support churches, whose lives arc not especially
controlled by the influences that school-houses and
churches create. The gamblers give way gracious-
ly to the progress towards decency and respecta-
bility, and join in outward observance of the Sab-
bath, help to build churches, and nuikc orderly tho
street life of the town. It is very interesting t(»
watch the various stages of this progress upward,
from the new mining town of one or two years'
life, up to San Francisco and Portland, which arc
the fullest flower of Pacific civilization. The order
and decorum oT the streets of these two cities arc
as perfect as those of Boston ; the San Francisco
police system is admirable, and a woman may walk
the streets of this city in the evening, with less
danger of insult and annoyance, than in those of
Springfield, even.

Money is lavished, even, on the school-houses,
which are the most stately and elegant buildings in
town, and the schools themselves have all the "mod-
ern improvements," good and bad. There is spe-
cial life, too, in the churches ; the Sabbath is cer-
tainly as well observed as in New York ; the con-
gregations are large, day and evening ; the Sunday
schools even boast of a larger attendance, in pro-
portion to the population, than those of any othei
city in the country ; new church edifices are con-
stantly going up; and, as your eastern parishes
have reason to know, there is an eag^r seeking of
the broadest and best pulpit talent to fill them.
The demand seems to be for smart, effective ora-

INENT.

1 fine school-houses
es are not especially
It school-houses and
s give way gracious-
cency and rcspccta-
icrvance of the Sab-
nd nuikc orderly tho

very interesting t(»
lis progress upward,
(f one or two years'

Portland, which arc
ilization. The order
these two cities arc
I ; the San Francisco
d a woman may walk
e evening, with less
ice, than in those of

m the school-houses,
1 elegant buildings in
'cs have all the " mod-
bad. There is spe-
; the Sabbath is cer-
New York ; the con-
evening ; the Sunday
;r attendance, in pro-
m those of any othei
irch edifices are con-
'our eastern parishes
3 an eager seeking of
t talent to fill them,
r smart, effective ora-

THE CLERGY — REV. MR. .STEnniNS.

329

tors, as well as holy men; and the churches are
not easily pleased.

Among the "orthodox" preachers, Rev. Dr.
Wadsworlh, from I'hiUulelphia, i)erhaps ranks first ;
and his society, a Presbyterian one, is probably the
largest and richest of that order. He is more of a
scholar than an orator, however ; but is greatly re-
spected and beloved. Just now, Rev. Dr. Scudder,
from Doston, is making his debut as pastor of one
of the Presbyterian societies, and is drawing large
houses. He has a free, popular. Ward Ueecher
style of talking in the pulpit, which, if really genu
ine and natural, will undoubtedly help him to per-
manent popularity and usefulness here. The Con-
gregational society, that bid so high for Rev. A. L.
Stone, of Boston, is still in the market for a first-
class preacher. Rev. Horatio Stebbins, of the Uni-
tarian church, which can boast a larger parish in-
come than any society in America, is, of course,
chief among the liberals ; and his many New Eng-
land friends will be rejoiced to know that he has
won a high position already among the intellectual
and religious leaders, in California society. Starr
King's peculiar popularity and remarkable career
here made it hard for any one to come after him in
the same pulpit; nobody could fill his place; for
that matter, no man was ever great enough to fill
anybody's else place: but i* was early found that
Mr. Stebbins could make a place for himself, and
nil it too. And this he has done. His superiority
m pure intellectual and spiritual qualities is con-
ceded ; and I have heard prominent citizens, with

330

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

I-*"

no partial kinship to his church to influence their
opinion, speak of him often as the first man in in-
tellect on the Coast. His first year here is now
closing, and though his salary is six thousand dol-
lars a year in gold, his friends have just made him
up an anniversary gift of four thousand dollars
(gold), by way of indicating that they know him
and like him, and to repair the damages of his re-
moval from the East.

There is large extra demand upon all the clergy-
men here for leadership in all literary and moral
enterprises, in all matters, indeed, involving the
public well-being. Mr. Stebbins has been particu-
larly called upon for public addresses during the
past season ; and there is also much impatience for
his presence and preaching among the liberal relig-
ious populations of the interior and of Oregon,
where no societies of his faith yet exist, — so that
there is an especial need of an able associate and
assistant to divide his great and growing field and
severe duties with him.*

In the country parishes, particularly in the min-
ing districts, the religious organizations are not so
flourishing. The populations have decreased in
many cases ; — there is nothing more desolate, in-
deed, than the appearance and prospects of these
interioi mining villages, the interest, which gave
them sudden rise and. prosperity, all gone or nearly

*Such provision has since been made by the Unitarian organi-
zation in the East, and Rev. Charles G. Ames. of Albany has gone
out to California for this very purpose. He has excellent qualities
for such service, and will admirably supplement Mr. Stebbins' pe-
culiar talents and labors.

S
ti
n
u
ii
tl
it

ai
C
m
is
m
d<
ci
w

NTINENT.

irch to influence their
IS the first man in in-
first year here is now
ry is six thousand dol-
is have just made him
four thousand dollars
I that they know him
the damages of his re-
nd upon all the clergy-
all literary and moral
indeed, involving the
bbins has been particu-
c addresses during the
,so much impatience for
among the liberal relig-
Lterior and of Oregon,
faith yet exist,— so that
if an able associate and
t and growing field and

particularly in the min-
organizations are not so
ons have decreased in
thing more desolate, in-
; and prospects of these
he interest, which gave
perity, all gone or nearly

made by the Unitarian organi-
es G. Ames. of Albany has gone
lose. He has excellent qualities
)ly supplement Mr. Stebbins' pe-

A FIELD FOR MISSIONARIES.

331

spent, and nothing taking its place ;— and the ability
to fill the churches and pay the clergyman is cor-
respondingly reduced. The people who remain are
uniformly generous and self-sacrificing in support-
ing the institutions of religion, but divided up into
the various sects, each with its meeting-house, and
its zealous pride of doctrine, no one of them has
power to support a minister creditably. Many
clergymen are therefore going away, literally starved
out; and numerous -districts of interior California
are actually becoming missionary fields. All this
Coast and its interior mining districts have great
need to-day of earnest, unsectarian Christian min-
isters and missionaries. The people are in the
main responsive to right appeal ; they are eager to
develop all the institutions and elements of the best
civilization, and will contribute liberally of money,
whenever they have it, in aid thereof; but it is no
holiday work that invites those who would lead
them. The men and women, who engage in it,
should come with resolute heart, and the power and
willingness to rough it in some res^ -cts, and come
to stay at least five years,— not for a selfish pleasure
trip to' see the country, and pay expenses by preach-
ing and prospecting in the mines. This country
has had enough of that sort of martyr-missionaries ;
they are of most profit to the steamship companies ;
but for men of the other sort, there is no more in-
teresting or fruitful or pressing field of labor, the
wortd over, than this New Nation of our West.

In all these matters, to which I have devoted
this letter,— society, manners, morals, education, re-

'I *

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

llgion— the great want, the great reformer, is the
Pacific Railroad. These, as much as mmcs and
commerce, await the vivifying and elevat.ag mflu-
ence of that great instrumentaUty. Every discus-
sion of the interests and the needs of this half of
our Continent ends here. All life on the Coast is
a circle leading to that. Everybody here sees this,
realizes it, far more painfully than you possibly can
in the East. I borrow the philosophical and im-
pressive words of Rev. Mr. Stebbins, in closing his
sermon last Sunday, to repeat this idea to you -to
show you how it is felt here, and how you ought to
feel it there : —

"The primeval command to ' replenish andsubdue' the earth, U
promulgated anew to us on these outer borders of the world. We,
upon this Coast, need, above all material advantage, as the condi-
tion of a noble social life and progress, an unbroken and swift com-
munication by railway and magnetic circuit with the places winch
we still fondly call our Home. The social effect of such relations
would be unspeakable in giving permanence and quiet to society.
This longing, thav comes like the sigh of the night-wmd over the
habitations of men, would be hushed. When the continental rail-
way and the ocean line to China shall be complete, the London cos-
mopolite will make the circuit of the globe in ninety days, and we
shall be nourished by the blood of the heart of the Y?Drld. Intelli-
cence will be increased, society liberalized by intercourse, and ex-,
temporaneous adventure driven out by better industries as m the
olden time the temple of God was cleared of money-changers by
the presence of a superior spirit Men have been attracted here by
the dangerous and corrupting passion for gold. The mherent ten-
dencies to barbarism in that adventure can be overcome and neu-
tralized only by assimilation with the best forms of society, and
bringing these distant places into close proximity with civilizjtion,
that the whole world may be tributary of its best things.

" It is not wise for us to flatter ourselves with false appearwices
or expectations. The bare historic fact is, that no fine state of hu-

man i
of ex
theg
govei
will £
prodi
on th
of na
but n
plays
his b
porte
Noth
comn
with
manl
grow
made
impu
perm
ways
worU
porte
ment
us in
whicl
tion
that'
ques
no b
their
licve
ther
her :
worli
"I
whic
manl
thus
a ste
instr

TINENT.

REV. MR. STEBBINS ON CALIFORNIA SOCIETY. 333

;reat reformer, is the
much as mines and
: and elevati/ig influ-
:ality. Every discus-
needs of this half of
il life on the Coast is
rybody here sees this,
than you possibly can
philosophical and im-
tebbins, in closing his
t this idea to you,— to
ind how you ought to

lish and subdue' the earth, is
r borders of the world. We,
:rial advantage, as the condi-
i, an unbroken and swift corn-
circuit with the places which
social effect of such relations
manence and quiet to society.
;h of the night-wind over the
. When the continental rail-
be complete, the London cos-
globe in ninety days, and we
e heart of the v?Drld. Intelli-
alized by intercourse, and ex- ^
by better industries, as in the
:leared of money-changers by
en have been attracted here by
n for gold. The inherent ten-
ire can be overcome and neu-
he best forms of society, and
)se proximity with civilization,
y of its best things,
irselves with false appearances
[act is, that no fine state of hu-

man society has ever existed over gold mines. And the only ground
of expectation we have, that society here will prove an exception to
the general law, is, that the compensating influences of a beneficent
government and swift communication with the world of mankind
will give us the laws, the manners and the religion which no gold-
producing country has ever been able to make for itself. Man, here
on these shores, contends not merely with the uhreclaimed powers
of nature, as the pioneer of New England or the Mississippi valley,
but nature herself is dishonest. She bribes and corrupts him, and
plays a trick on all his being. She sneers at his industry, makes
his business a joke, and his word a lie. The world must be im-
ported here to make nature honest, and outwit her secret arts.
Nothing can save us from Spanish decline and Mexic littleness but
communication with the world; that rapid and sure intercourse
with human society, which assimilates the interests and the life of
mankind. And I make this moral predicamen*- concerning tho
growth and prosperity of our State ; That the powers which have
made her prosperous thus far have done their best, and that no great
impulse of human affairs, having breadth and hight and depth of
permanent, xmtiring progress, can be felt here until the great high-
ways are opened over sea and land ; and the world, the many-sided
world of industries and arts, and commerce and literature, is im-
ported to us. The primeval command comes to us with the aug-
mented authority of our providential vocation, and is reiterated to
us in original sublimity of moral law from every mountain summit
which nature raises up as a barrier to our assimilation with the Na-
tion and mankind. It is only by *he introduction of new powers
that we can conserve those we have. Compared wi^h this all other
questions for us are idle. And the people of California can make
no better investment of their time, their talents, their money, or
their public spirit, — and I would that I could persuade you to be-
lieve it and quit all your lesser contradictions, — than in turning all
the powers of the State to overcome the barriers which lie between
her and the Nation's hearthstone, between her and the heart of the
world.

"Human society is made for religion: — for the ends and aims
which religion suggests. Whatever promotes the assimilation of
mankind, whatever brings nations and peoples into communion,
thus supplementing each other in the completeness of humanity, is
a step in the advancing kingdom of God. This earth is a musical
instrument not )'et fully strung. When every Coast shall be peo-

334

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

ri-

T>led every mountain barrier overcome, every abyss sp-.nned, and
Se peoples of the earth shall flow together as in prophet.c v.s,on
to the mountain of the Lord's house, and harmony of common
good shall persuade the lion and the lamb; when ^^-^^f^^
Greater than conflict, and order than violence, when manners shall
IZZ the races as a garment of beauty, and religion conserve soc-
enrobe the ^=»^" * » soul.-then this earth shall give its sound

kind."

These are, indeed, solemn, majestic truths, most
impressively stated. I would that they reach every
soul East and West, and bring forth early, earnest
fruit.

CLIN

SS . feft'i " '

riNENT.

every abyss sp"u,nned, and
ther as in prophetic vision

and harmony of common
lamb; when laws shall be
lence ; when manners shall

and religion conserve soci-
nis earth shall give its sound
B, and the providential pur-
s the beacon lighu of man-

majestic truths, most
that they reach every
ig forth early, earnest

LETTER XXIX.

CLIMATE AND PRODUCTIONS: COST OF LIVING:
THE CURRENCY QUESTION: THE MINT.

San Francisco, August 3».
The climate of all this Pacific side of the Ro'-ky
Mountains is one in its distinctive qualities. As a
change from that of the Atlantic States, there can
be no doubt of its beneficial influence upon the
health, both because it is a change, and because it
is less variable. It offers none of those wide sweeps
of temperature that, both in degree and in sudden-
ness, so try a weak constitution, and break down a
strong one. Snow and ice are things unknown out
of the mountains, in California, Oregon and Nevada.
The summer sun is fiercer than in the Middle and
New England States ; but its oppressiveness is
broken by a constant vitality in the air, and uni-
formly cool nights, that do not accompany your ^
July and August weather io the East. Neither the
long summer drouth nor the winter rains appear
to be an element of ill health or even of great dis-
comfort to an invalid in themselves. The rains ai ;
not oppressive save in the central valley of Oregon ;
?nd their chief inconvenience is felt in the mud in
the country, as that of the summer's drouth is in

336

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

W 'i

hii! '

f <

'^t

the deep and sensitive dust, both making walking
and riding off the pavements a great trial to clean-
liness and comfort. , , • ,

But the evenness of the climate and the mde-
scribable inspiration of the air are the great features
of life here, and the great elements in its health.
There is ^ steady tone in the atmosphere, like draft
of champagne, or subtle presence of iron. It in-
vites to labor, and makes it possible. Horses can
travel more miles here in a day than at the East;
and men and women feel impelled to an unusual
activity San Francisco, which has the advantage
of the interior in a cooler summer, probably offers
more working days in the year than any other town
or city in America; less occasion for loss from bad
weather and consequent ill-health. But this city,
though favorable to preserving health, is bad for
regaining it. Its doctors say it is the easiest place
to keep well in, but the hardest to get well m.
They send their invalids into the country.

It is too early yet to determine the permanent
influences of the climate^of the Pacific Coast upon
the race. The fast and rough life of the present
generation here is not sure basis for calculation
But the indications are that the human stock wil
•be improved both in physical and nervous qual-
ities The children are stout and lusty. 1 he
climate invites and permits with impunity such a
larVe open-air life that it could hardly be otherwise
There is great freedom from lung difficulties ; but
the weakness of the country is in nervoHS affections.
The journey hither is a serious and tedious one.

riNENT.

0th making walking
. great trial to cleau-

imate and the inde-
are the great features
sments in its health,
itmosphere, like draft
ence of iron. It in-
lossible. Horses can
ay than at the East ;
pelled to an unusual
Lch has the advantage
mmer, probably offers
r than any other town
ision for loss from bad
lealth. But this city,
ing health, is bad for
r it is the easiest place
irdest to get well in".
» the country,
ermine the permanent
the Pacific Coast upon
igh life of the present
; basis for calculation.
: the human stock will
cal and nervous qual-
tout and lusty. The
with impunity such a
lid hardly be otherwise,
n lung difficulties ; but
is in nervoi^s affections,
erious and tedious one,

THE FRUITS OF CALIFORNIA.

337

either by land or water, and no really weak invalid
should undertake it. But persons with a tendency
to weak lungs, or with a low physical system that
is being sapped by our rough eastern changes in
temperature, can imdoubtedly come over here with
advantage, and secure a longer and a heartier life.
San Francisco is no place for a weak lung in sum-
mer, however; the interior valleys must then be
resorted to by those thus afflicted ; but in winter
this rity is as favorable a residence for health as any
in the State.

The abundance and variety of fruits and vegeta-
bles, and their great size and vigorous health, con-
tinue to be a surprise and a pleasure here. No
State in the Union has such wealth in these respects
as California. Nearly everything that the temperate
and torrid zones unite to offer is hers by birth-right
or domestication. The southern counties send up
figs and oranges and bananas and tenderest of
grapes; the northern, apples in abundance; and
peaches, strawberries, plums, blackberries and pears
come from all. And gnarled or wormy fruit is never
seen ; everything is lound, fair and large. So of
vegetables, — the range is wide ; only Indian corn is
fastidious and requires to be humored ; and the size
and perfection of shape and vigor of health are
uniformly such as are seen in the East only at cattle
show exhibitions and in small quantities.

But the fastidious Yankee, who never forgets his
home or his mother's pies and preserves, insists
that the quality of the fruit and vegetables is below
that of the productions of the orchards and gardens

338

ACROSS VUE CONTINENT.

mii

of the Middle States and New England,-that
the el just a lower flavor and delicacy m them
1 Icrifici of piquancy and richness to perfecUon of
Shane and bulk. It may be this is only an lUus ra-
tLn of that great moral truth that Burton used to
mpress upon his Chambers street theater audiences^
nhat the sassengers of infancy "^^^"^ ""^^^ ' ""^
yet I am inclined to believe there is really some-
[hing in it. But he must be an ungratefu churl
howLr. who is not content with the wealth and
■iety that nature offers us here for food, and at
comparatively low prices, too. The table can b
both better and more cheaply spread m nearly al
respects here in San Francisco, than m any other
Am'ertan city at this moment. Butter perhaps, is
f weak point, and so is hsh; for though the fish o
the Pacific are generally the same m species and
appearance as those of the East, the quality is con-
fcLdly and uniformly below. Everything in the
markets, however, is sold by the pound; potatoes
and grains and fruit, as well as meat and butter.
But this is surely the fairest test. Weight is the
fin St measure of the real worth of all food ; and why
should it not be applied to all as to ^orr^^^^^^
The best time to see this country is in the spring.
From February to June, when the rains are dwin-
dling away to greet the summer drouth, and vege-
tation of all sorts comes into its freshes^riche
life then, according to all testimony, is the most
ctrming season for the traveler. All these now
bare and russet hills, these dead and drear plains
are then alive with vigorous green, disputed, shaded

and

The

unc

no I

luxi

for

all?

wh{

and

lian

the

wat

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mo!

nat

sou

Fel

Ocl

eve

the

voj

rail

twc

Pri

da)

hei

pre

anc

to-:

riNENT.

Jew England,— that
id delicacy in them ;
incss to perfection of
lis is only an illustra-
that Burton used to
eet theater audiences,
;y never return;" and
there is really some-
an ungrateful churl,
with the wealth and
here for food, and at
), The table can be
y spread in nearly all
ico, than in any other
tt. Butter, perhaps, is
for though the fish of
; same in species and
;ast, the quality is con-
ft. Everything in the
/■ the pound; potatoes
11 as meat and butter,
it test. Weight is the
rth of all food; and why
11 as to some articles ?
:ountry is in the spring,
len the rains are dwin-
amer drouth, and vege-
nto its freshest, richest
testimony, is the most
•aveler. AH these now
i dead and drear plains,
; green, disputed, shaded

THE TIME TO VISIT C> LIFORNIA.

339

and glorified with all the rival and richer colors.
The wild flowers of California fairly carpet all the
iinrultivated ground. No June prairie of Illinois ;
no garden of eastern culture can rival them. For
luxuriance, for variety and depth and hight of color,
fcr complete occupation of the hills and the plains,
all agree that there is nothing like it to be seen any-
where else in nature. Then, too, the trees are clean
and fiesh ; the live oak groves are enriched to bril-
liant gardens by the flowers and grass below ; and
the pine and fir forests hold majestic yet tender
watch over all the various new life of the woods.
Those who would visit he Pacific States under the
most favorable circumstances, for seeing all their
natural beauty, and studying all their improved re-
sources.'would do best to come around by sea in
February, and go home overland in September or
October. That would afford ample time to observe
everything leisurely, a ' \t its best estate. After
the first two or three da_yo out from New York, the
voyage at this season of starting is made under
mild and pleasant skies on both sides the Continent
It is not easy to make any exact comparison be-
tween the cost of living here and that at the East.
Prices of everything, both here and there, are now
much unsettled and fickle ; what might be true to-
day would be wholly changed next week. Then
here, there is a lack of settled and uniform habits
or scales of living; an irregular, fitful ^extravagance
prevails ; in luck, to-jjay, a man drinks champagne
and flaunts his jewelry at the Occidental; while
to-morrow, fortune frowning, he is sponging a din-

±,

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

ncr and a chink from his friends, and takct, a fifty-
cent lodging at the What Cheer House. Large
profits are generally demanded by the tradeis;
nothing is sold for less than "two bits" (twenty-five
cents) ; and a fifty-eent piece is the lowest com that
it is respectable to earry. or throw to the man who
waters your horse. As a general rule, no statement
can be more intelligent than that it costs about as
much to live in San Francisco in gold as it does in
Boston and New York in greenbacks load, and
consequently board, is cheaper than this here ; bu
dry goods and luxuries arc generally more At the
best hotels, the Occidental and Cosmopolitan, he
price is three dollars a day in gold, which is the
same as the four dollars and fifty cents per diem in
greenbacks of your first New York and Boston

houses. - .

The "What Cheer House" is the famous rcsor
for miners and mechanics ; and it has niade several
fine fortunes in furnishing meals and beds at fifty
cents each. Some of the features of this establish,
ment are original and noteworthy. It ^^^^^ ^'^
pecial office for receiving clothes to be washed and
mended, a well chosen popular library with five
thousand volumes, full files ^^ "^J^P^P^^^^^^^j
nfagazines. an extensive and valuable cabmet of
minerals, and a beautiful collection of stuffed birds
all for the accommodation and entertammen of its
guests. Its reading room is generally well-filled
^th plain, rough-looking mc«, each w|th book o
newspaper in hand. The rule of the establishmen
is for every guest to buy a supply of tickets fo.

:1NENT.

Lis, and takcb a fifty-
iccr Mouse. Larf;e
ed by the traders;
wo bits" (twenty-five
s the lowest coin that
irow to the man who
;ral rulC; no statement
;hat it costs about as
) in gold as it does in
:enbacks. Food, and
r than this here ; but
ncrally more. At the
nd Cosmopolitan, the
in gold, which is the
fifty cents per diem in
iw York and Boston

" is the famous resort
nd it has made several
neals and beds at fifty
Ltures of this establish-
vorthy. It has an es-
)thes to be washed and
jular library with five
;s of newspapers and
id valuable cabinet of
lection of stuffed birds,
nd entertainment of its

is generally well-fiUed
iie«, each with book or
ule of the establishment

a supply of tickets for

THE SAN FRANCISCO MARKETS.

341

meals and lodgings on his arrival, and the proprietor
redeems with cash what have not been used up
when the customer leaves.

A "drink" at an aristocratic San Francisco bar is
two bits (twenty-five cents), at a more democratic
establishment one bit (ten cents). There is no coin
in use less than a dime (ten cents); one of these
answers as "a bit;" two of them will pass for two
bits, or twenty-five cents ; but the man who often
offers two dimes for a quarter of a dollar is voted a
" bummer." Some quotations from the retail family
markets will still further illustrate the prices of food
and living here : butter seventy-five cents a pound,
eggs seventy cents a dozen, hams and bacon thirty
cents a pound, potatoes one to two and one-half
cents a pound, cauliflowers one dollar to one dollar
and twenty-five cents per dozen, green peas five to
ten cents a pound, apples four to ten cents a pound,
peaches five to ten cents a pound, pears three to ten
cents, grapes three to ten cents, new figs eight to
fifteen cents a pound, dried figs twenty to forty
cents, chickens seventy-five cents apiece, turkeys
thirty cents a pound, ducks one dollar and fifty cents
to two dollars a pair, quails one dollar and fifty cents
per dozen, rabbits thirty-seven cents a pair, fresh
palmon eight to twelve cents a pound, smelts ten
cents a pound, sea bass five to ten cents, codfish ten
to twelve cents, oranges four dollars to four dollars
and fifty cents per hundred, lard thirty-three cents
a pound. French and English dry goods at auction
sold like this: — Brussels carpets one dollar and
twenty- five cents • to one dollar and sixty-seven

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

cents, velvet carpets one dolhr and sixty cents to
two dollars and fifteen cents, broadcloth two dollars
and forty-five cents to three dollars, black silks two
dollars and fifteen cents to two dollars and eighty-
five cents, plain wool delaines twenty-seven to thirty
cents number five ribbons one dollar to one dollar
and seven cents, satinets fifty to sixty-two cents
These latter arc wholesale rates, of courie, and all
the figures quoted are for specie.

My readers will infer, what I think T have not ex-
plicitly stated before, that the currency of these
States is gold and silver. Taper money has been
kept out by the force of a very obstinate public
opinion and the instrumentality of State legislation.
Our national currency of greenbacks are seen here
simply as merchandise; you buy and sell them at
the brokers, for about seventy-five cents in coin to
the dollar. Of course being made a " legal tender
by United States law, it is competent to pay a debt
here with them; but no man who should do this
orce, without the sum being made proportionately
larger of course, could henceforth have any credit
or standing in the mercantile community. AH large
and long credits are now coupled with an express
stipulation that they are on a specie footing, ar.d a
law of the State, known as the "specific contract
act " protects such arrangements. But public opin-
ion so far, and in all the small daily transactions of
trade is the great and controlling law on the subject.
These Pacific States' never having had any paper
monfey of their own, and producing plenty of the
material for coin, with a mint for its manufacture, it

J-

:1NENT.

r and sixty cents to
roacldoth two dollars
>llars, black silks two
dollars and cighty-
wcnty-scvcn to thirty
(• dollar to one dollar
^ to sixty-two cents.
OS, of couric, and all
ne.

[ think T have not cx-
^c currency of these
iper money has been
vrcry obstinate public
y of State k'};islation.
snbacks arc seen here
buy and sell them at
y-five cents in coin to
made a "legal tender"
impetcnt to pay a debt
m who should do this

made proportionately
eforth have any credit
community. All large
oupled with an express
a specie footing, and a

the "specific contract
ents. But public opin-
dl daily transactions of
lling law on the subject.
;r having had any paper
iroducing plenty of the
it for its manufacture, it

THE "greenback question.

343

was very natural, though unquestionably selfish and
luipatriotic, for them to resist the debasement and
supersedurc of their currency by the legal tender
notes, which the general government resorted to
for means to carry on the war. Their motive in
excluding them was, of course, to protect their busi-
ness operations from the dangerous derangements,
often spreading a wide financial ruin, that arc the
common accompaniments of a cheap and abundant
currency. But since only activity and prosperity
are seen to have resulted in the eastern States, —
while depression and dullness have been creeping
over affairs in these States,— there has been a grad-
ual change in public sentiment on the subject. Out
of San Francisco, and especially in Oregon and
Nevada, there is evidently a preponderating feeling
now in favor of introducing the national currency.
The principal arguments for it are, that the States
here ought to share in all the responsibilities of
their sisters in the East ; if the paper money con-
fers benefits, they should be enjoyed here; if bur-
dens, they too should be assumed by those that arc
proud to belong to the national Republic. The
friends of the introduction also argue that it would
make money more abundant and cheaper, and
largely increase the tendency of eastern capitalists
to make heavy investments on this Coast, and so
give new life and prosperity to all business here.

But San Francisco, as the center of all the busi-
ness and financial operations of these States, holds
all firmly to the present state of things. Her
merchants and bankers have prgspered all along;

344

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

many of them are foreigners, and represen*: foreign
capital ; and they are not only content to keep the
business of the country on a specie basis, but are
determined that it shall be so kept. They argue
that these States do not need capital so much as
labor ; not money so much as emigration ; and that
while, as matters have now turned out, it might
have been well to have accepted the government
paper at the start, and gradually come to its in-
fluence upon prices and business, as we did in the
East, if would create great confusion and disorder
to make the revolution at the present time, when
there is a difference of fifty per cent, between the
two currencies, and the prices based up,on them;
and, consequently, that it is better to continue as
they have begun, and await the return of the cur-
rency of the East to the coin standard.

The question is being vigorously discussed ; it is,
indeed, the only live issue in the politics of these
States ; but so far San Francisco holds dominance
over all the interior, and keeps out the greenbacks.
The tendency of opinion and affairs is against her,
however ; and the day for a change may not be so
far distant as it superficially seems. The bankers
evidently intend to control the subject ; and when
they find they must yield, they will lead, and be the
first to introduce the paper money. As it now
stands, however, the question is a difficult and per-
plexing one to manage practically. It is even
doubtful if the government could spare enough
currency from the East to answer for the business
of these States, so far away from the financial and

•INENT.

nd represen*: foreign
content to keep the
specie basis, but are
) kept. They argue
[ capital so much as
imigration ; and that
turned out, it might
)ted the government
lally come to its in-
less, as we did in the
)nfUsion and disorder
e present time, when
)er cent, between the
£S based upon them;
better to continue as
:he return of the cur-
standard,
rously discussed ; it is,
1 the politics of these
:isco holds dominance
ps out the greenbacks.
I affairs is against her,
change may not be so
seems. The bankers
the subject ; and when
ey will lead, and be the
r money. As it now
,n is a difficult and per-
ractically. It is even
it could spare enough
inswer for the business
from the financial and

THE MINT AT SAN FRANCISCO.

345

government centers that they cannot draw supplies
in one or two days, as all your eastern commercial
points can. Certainly it will require the co-opera-
tion of the government at Washington and of the
State governments here, with all the facilities of
the bankers of this city, to introduce ihe change
now without great interruption to the p\ ogress of
trade and possible ruin to many delicatt Interests.
Utah and Colorado have the paper money of the
East in use ; but all the States and Territories this
side of them employ only gold and silver, in sym-
pathy with the fountain head of San Francisco.

Of all the government institutions in San Fran-
cisco, the Mint is the most interesting and impor-
tant. Ali'eady it is the great manufj^ctory of coin
in the Nation, and its comparative importance in
this respect is destined to increase. It coins now
about twenty millions of gold and silver a year,
against five millions coined at all the other govern-
ment mints in the country, including the parent
mint at Philadelphia. The coinage here for June
and July was nearly three millions a month, and the
aggregate for this year is likely to go up to twenty-
four millions. Mints elsewhere on the Pacific Coast,
and in the mining regions, are utterly unnecessary.
There is one at Denver in Colorado, but it has
nothing to do, — the gold of the Colorado and Mon-
tana mines goes right by it, in dust or bars, to New
' York and Philadelphia. Efforts are making to get
mints in Nevada and in Oregon, but they would
only prove a waste of money. No local clamor of
politicians, seeking home popularity or coutractors'
IS*

346

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

jobs for friends, should induce Congress to yield to
' such demands. Two mints are only needed for the
whole country, at New York or Philadelphia, and at
San Francisco. The metals, as soon as mined, drift
at once to the commercial and financial centers ;
there only can their true value be known,— there
only the use to which commerce may choose to put
them Sometimes, she demands their exportation
in bars, and again in coin. Besides, the business of
coining is an intricate and delicate one, requiring
large responsibilities, expensive establishments, and
men of both science and integrity. It should not
be needlessly cheapened and scattered. Govern-
ment may well have assay offices in all t^e mining
districts, actipg as branches of the mints, to receive
the metals, and give coin or exchange for their full
value, minus the bare cost of manipulating, m order
to accommodate especially the poorer and smaller
miners ; but the multiplication of mints, I repeat, is
an unnecessary, wasteful, and dangerous operation.
The Mint here is now in charge of one of the
best merchants of the city, Mr. R. B. Swain, but it
has no adequate accommodations. It is crowded
into the back and upper rooms of an old and ordi-
nary block in the principal business street. But
provision has been made by Congress for a distinct
and appropriate building. The metals are received
at the Mint in all manner of half-worked forms, in
dust, nuggets, rough bars, silver and gold mixed
together, and more or less dross with all. l^acti
parcel is kept distinct, first assayed, to discover its
exact value, and then worked over, the dross c^-

pell

wat

pro

tail

exp

eitl

val

froi

ste

the

wil

for

INENT.

Congress to yield to

only needed for the
Philadelphia, and at
I soon as mined, drift
d financial centers;
3 be known, — there
;e may choose to put
ds their exportation
sides, the business of
licate one, requiring
I estabUshments, and
;rity. It should not

scattered. Govcvn-
:es in all t^ie mining

the mints, to receive
xchange for their full
lanipulating, in order
e poorer and smaller
1 of mints, I repeat, is
dangerous operation.

charge of one of the
r. R. B. Swain, but it
tions. It is crowded
IS of an old and ordi-
business street. But
Congress for a distinct
he metals are received

half-worked forms, in
ilver and gold mixed
dross with all. Each
issayed, to discover its
:d over, the dross exr

THE world's balancing-house.

347

pelled, and the silver and gold separated. Fire,
water and chemicals are the means employed. The
processes are simple enough and exquisitely enter-
taining, as you follow them with eye and intelligent
explanation. The results are returned to the owner
either in solid bars, bearing official stamp of their
value, or in freshly made coin.

Much gold and silver are already exported direct
from here to China to settle the balances of trade
of both New York and London merchants ; and
when the Pacific Railroad is done, and the line of
steamships to China is running, San Francisco, as
the center of the gold and silver producing region
of the world, and the half-way house of commerce,
will become the great financial and balancing center
for all the trade between Europe and America, and
Asia.

LETTER XXX.

THE MINING QUESTIONS AGAIN: GENERAL
REVIEW.

San Francisco, September i.
I MUST go back to the Mines for a renewed word
of caution to the East. You are tempted there
vvith all sorts of seductive ventures in the way ot
mining in these Pacific States. There are many
men, both there and here, busy in workmg up a
furore for investments in this business Every
steamer carries speculators and adventi.rer. to the
East, with mines to sell,-good, bad anu nidiffer-
ent,-but mostly uncertain. These have often
been, and are likely to be, made the basis of jomt
stock companies of mammoth capitals, yet low-
priced shares : their prospects set belorc the pubhc
in flaming advertisements, studded with stunmng
statements as to the assay of the ore and the as-
sured prospects of the company. It is sate to ad-
vise people ^ -'t no trust in such enterprises. I
is sale to t .: . that the money made by them will
be made out of the stock-buyers, and not out of the
mines, and shared by the officers of the company
and their friends. Very likely, the latter are in the
first instance swindled in the purchase of the mines,
and that they are only repeating, in another form

anc

pla

fen

dis

eve

ycc

]

gei

sh(

dii

inl

nij

th;

in^

CAUTION TO CAPITALISTS.

349

XX.

.GAIN : GENERAl-

RANCisco, September i.
5 for a renewed word
I are tempted there
itures in the way of
s. There are many
isy in working up a
is business Every
d adventi^rers to the
od, bad and iiidiffer-
These have often
ide the basis of joint
th capitals, yet low-
, set before, the pubUc
udded with stunning
f the ore and the as-
,ny. It is safe to ad-
such enterprises. It
ey made by them will
ers, and not out of the
Eicers of the company
y, the latter are in the
purchase of the mines,
iting, in another form

and before a larger audience, the game that has been
played on them. Most of the mines now being of-
fered to the eastern public are so remotely located,
distant from markets, from wood and water, that,
even if valuable in themselves, they cannot for many
years to come be worked to advantage and profit.
No investments, I repeat, should be made in
mines in this region, except after the most intelli-
gent and complete study of the whole subject, and
of the merits of the special enterprise offered, either
by the capitalist himself, or by some one in whom
he can place the most implicit confidence. Not
only the mine itself should offer assured evidence
of value, and of favorable location, but the capitalist
should also be assured of its management here by
persons of both intelligence and integrity. This
point is as vital as the other, and as difficult, more
difficult indeed, to be secured. These qualities of
intelligence and integrity are rare here, and com-
mand a high price. They can generally do better
than to work for other people. Eastern capitalists,
investing largely,— and it is certainly best to invest
enough to command their personal attention, or not
at all,— will always find it wise to send out one of
their own number, or a person equally dt pendable,
to oversee the expenditures and direct the financial
part of their operations, and let him find here that
scientific and practical knowledge on the subject of
mining, that he cannot of course possess. This he
will obtain in mining engineers of repute, and in
old practical miners, the latter most often men who
have been foremen or overseers in mines or mills.

..1..

350

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

The discoverers and prospectors of mines are a class
by tliemselves, and are rarely the right men to work
a mine for ether people.

I find my conviction of distrust of indiscriminate
investments in mining, and my growing conserva-
tism on the whole subject, abundantly confirmed by
the experience and testimony of others. There is
but one voice among the oldest and best business
men of this city,— men who have gone through all
the mining excitements of the Coast and shared in
them all,— and that is in fullest sympathy with what
I have written. Mr. Charles Allen of Boston, the
reporter for your Massachusetts Supreme Court,
who has followed our party through the Nevada
silver and the California gold mining districts, ex-
amining them and their operations with even more
of strictness and detail, in behalf of eastern clients
and capitalists, than we did, I find has written
home almost exact transcripts of my conclusions,
without any knowledge of what these were. We
find them fully confirmed, too, by the printed opin-
ions ot Professor Whitney of the California State
Geological Survey, on record here. Mr. William
Ashburner, who has been the mineralogist of that
survey, and is now the confidential mining engineer
of some of th- most important enterprises and in-
terests on this Coast, — and who is from Stockbridge,
(Mass.,) and the son-in-law of Mr. Jonathan E.
Field of that town,— acts confidently and cautiously
on the same principles, and all his experience justi-
fies their soundness. There is no higher or more
intelligent authority on these subjects than he.

NENT.

DOUBLE INJURY OF DECEPTION.

351

of mines are a class
; right men to work

St of indiscriminate
growing conserva-
dantly confirmed by
)f others. There is
t and best business
ve gone through all
Coast and shared in
sympathy with what
Mien of Boston, the
tts Supreme Court,
hrough the Nevada
mining districts, ex-
ions with even more
ilf of eastern clients
I find has written
( of my conclusions,
lat these were. We
by the printed opin-
the California State
here. Mr. William
mineralogist of that
itial mining engineer
it enterprises and in-
3 is from Stockbridge,
of Mr. Jonathan E.
dently and cautiously
1 his experience justi-
is no higher or more
subjects than he.

None of those who hold these views belittle the
mineral wealth of these States. Those who know
most about it have, indeed, the largest ideas of its
extent and its value. But even thus utterly unable
to measure these riches and the amounts to be
drawn from them for the use of the world, they have
learned how fickle are their individual deposits, how
incomplete and uneconomical are present modes of
extracting and working them, how remote from
supplies arc their best fields, and how difficult, al-.
most impossible, has been and still is the reduction
of the business of mining to order and legitimacy.
Those, too, who have the true interests of these
States at heart, who foresee their future, and would
have their progress steady and sure, cannot but
look upon the invitation of eastern capital hither
under false expectations and by deceptive enter-
prises, with equal sorrow and indignation. The
fraud and the injury are as great to the West as the
East. Every dollar swindled out of the Atlantic
States by speculating adventure on the Pacific loses
at least two dollars on the great balance-sheet to
this section. It will keep that much, at least, back
from legitimate enterprise and investment here.
There is field enough on this Coast and the way
hither for all the capital and all the labor the East
can spare, — legitimate, honorable, profitable field ;
and so every dollar, every hand turned from this to
unremunerative, baseless enterprise, is indeed a
double fraud. Sound theories and healthy habits
as to mining are fast becoming dominant here ; few
enterprises, controlled by old miners and long resi-

352

ACROSS tHE CONTINENT.

dents, are not now meeting with some deyree of
success, or carried on with a fair integrity. Only
eastern creduUty and passion, fed of course by reck-
less cupidity here, can repeat on a large scale the
lamentable experience through which this wisdom
has been gained. I warn all whom my words may
reach against feeding or yielding to the passion ;
for they peril in it both their consciences and their
cash, and bring injury to the best interests of Cali-
fornia and her sister States.

The results of the geological survey of Califor-
nia, under Professor Whitney, just now beginning
to come before the public, will aid materially in the
dissemination of reliable knowledge on all subjects
connected with the State's wealth and the opportu-
nities for its development. That survey is one of
the most comprehensive and thorough scientific la-
bors of the description ever attempted in this coun-
try • so far as known, its results have challenged
the admiration of scientific men everywhere ; both
its intelligence and its integrity are unimpeachable ;
and the State of California owes it to her best m-
terests and to her reputation the world over to
carry the work through on the high scale with
which it has been commenced, disregarding the
suggestions of prejudiced ignorance, the clamor of
baffled speculation, and the appeal of a narrow
economy. No money can be so well expended by
California as in telling the world exactly what she
is, in whole and in detail ; and this is the work that
Professor Whitney has carried forward lo its near,
triumphant completion.

L
takii
equ£
peri
ore
ton,
of (
not
ture
com

SUC(

1
Cal;

Ciil
of 1
roai
in r
whi
tine
poo
spo
son
imj
ist
ces
mil
rat

fut
the
wo
ly

J„

NENT.

th some dei^ree of
.ir integrity. Only
1 of course by reck-
n a large scale the
which this wisdom
lom my words may
,ng to the passion;
msciences and their
:st interests of Cali-

il survey of Califor-
just now beginning
aid materially in the
ledge on all subjects
1th and the opportu-
hat survey is one of
lorough scientific la-
cmpted in this coun-
alts have challenged
:n everywhere; both
y are unimpeachable ;
ires it to her best in-
1 the world over to
the high scale with
ed, disregarding the
orance, the clamor of
appeal of a narrow
; so well expended by
)rld exactly what she
i this is the work that
d forward lo its near,

■I

NEW MINING DISTRICT IN CALIFORNIA. 353

Looking back oyer our mining experiences, and
taking the average testimony of each district as
equally reliable, I find myself impressed with the su-
perior richness of the Colorado gold mines. Their
ore averaged as uniformly one hundred dollars a
ton, as that of Nevada, either Austin or Virginia, or
of California does fifty dollars. The extraction is
not as complete because of the more intricate na-
ture of the precious deposits ; but means to over-
come this, though perhaps at enlarged cost, seemed
successfully initiated while we were there.

There has been opened a new mining district in
California the present season, in the extreme west-
cm part of Nevada County, among the higher hills
of the Sierras, and near the line of the Pacific rail-
road, whose ores resemble those of Colorado, both
in richness and in peculiarity of combinations, and
which, already attracting great attention, seems des-
tined to become both popular and profitable. The
poorer portions of the ore of one mine are sold on the
spot at forty dollars a ton ; and the rest are taken
some distance to be worked. But the first and most
important step in the successful treatment of all of it
is believed to be roasting, which is not a common pro-
cess in California. A single chunk of ore from this
mine was so fat with wealth that it yielded at the
rate of over thirty-nine hundred dollars to the ton !
There is even increased doubt and anxiety as to the
future of the Comstock Ledge in Nevada, which is
the great mineral deposit of the Continent, if not the
world. The mines are turning out bullion more rich-
ly than in early summer ; but they are spending large

354

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

sums for explorations for new deposits, with results
that arc, on the whole, disheartening. Dividends are
dccreasins and stopping; assessments coming ; and
the stocks arc ahoul half the rates in the spring.

The "-old and copper mines down in Arizona,
along the Colorado Kivcr, as it runs between thi...
Territory and California, are also coming mo^e into
favor and development. That river offers conven-
ient and cheap access to them ; and the chief ob-
stacles, as yet, are the lack of steam communication,
the barrenness of the neighboring country, and the
hostility of the Indians. Mr. Charles L. Strong,
the famous superintendent of the famous Gould &
Curry mine in Virginia, until within two years, has
just returned from an exploring expedition in that
direction, and reports most valuable discoveries of
mines, which he has taken up in behalf of some
heavy New York capitalists, whom he represents.

From Idaho we hear already ol deserted villages
and impoverished gold-diggings ; successful mining
there is fast falling back on the quartz leads ; and
as a consequence the occupation of the "wandering
Jews,"' the pioneers in gold-hunting, is gone. The
experience of the East with oil wells is a fit parallel
to the mining experience of the Pacific States. The
excitement, the speculation, the lucky hits of the few,
the losses and disappointments of the many, the sud-
den creation of a town with all the elements of civili-
zation, and its almost as sudden desertion for new and
more favored localities,— in all these features and in
many incidental ones, the history of one experience
is counterpart and repetition of that of the other.

profi

mosi

and

howi

lie ii

fron-

calk

dev(

no 1

Eas

fron

a m

cess

trod

cess

plet

silv

the

of i

the

and

upc

qui

ties

cle;

ore

the

onl

INENT.

eposits, with results
ing. Dividends are
iments coming ; and
itcs in the spring.
1 down in Arizona,
t runs between tha.-
io coming mc-e into
river offers conven-

; and the chief ol)-
cam communication,
ing country, and the

Charles L. Strong,
the famous Gould &
vithin two years, has
\g expedition in that
luable discoveries of
p in behalf of some
tiom he represents.
^ ol deserted villages
;s ; successful mining
he quartz leads ; and
on of the "wandering
mting, is gone. The

1 wells is a fit parallel

2 Pacific States. The
z lucky hits of the few,

3 of the many, the sud-
the elements of civili-
1 desertion for new and
1 these features and in
:ory of one experience
of that of the other.

COPPER AND QUICKSILVER.

3S5

Copper and quicksilver are to be added to the
profitable mineral productions of California. The
most brilliant success has attended the discovery
and working of both these valuable metals, each,
however, in a single locality. The copper mines
lie in the foot-hills of the Sierras, a day's ride west
from Stockton, and the town they have built up is
called appropriately Copperopolis. They are being
developed very extensively and with much profit;
no less than three thousand tons of the ore goes
East and to England every month ; and an increase
from these and other mines to twenty thousand tons
a month is predicted by another year. The suc-
cessful smelting of the ore for the metal is not in-
troduced here yet, except on a small scale. The pro-
cesses abroad are so much cheaper and more com-
plete that it pays better to ship the rough ore direct.

The great mines of Cinnabar, from which quick-
silver is extracted, are those of New Almaden, on
the inside of the Coast hills, about sixty miles south
of San Francisco; and they hnvc become one of
the most curious and interesting objects for visit
and inspection in all California. Their discovery
and successful working have had a marked influence
upon the mining interests of the country, since
quicksilver is universally used, and in large quanti-
ties, to separate the gold and silver from the parti-
cles of dross with which they are bound up in the
ore, and the production of the article throughout
the world is quite limited. Spain, Peru and Austria
only have mines of it besides California ; and the
New Almaden now controls the prices for the world.

356

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

Its present production is four thousand l> five thou-
sand flasl<s a month, worth forty dollars .a flask, and
the net profits of the operation are aliout one hun-
dred thousand dollars a month. The history of this
property, its discovery and ownership, has been fiill
of romance ; there was great dispute over it, a long
contest in law, vast sums paid in litij;ation, and
finally a purchase of rival claims. It is now owned
by a New York company, with a capital of ten
millions, and is a magnificent property. The cin-
nabar is a red, brick-looking earth or ore, wivch is
dug from its veins like any other ore, fashioMod into
small squares or bricks, built up into a kiln, and
then fire set under and among it ; ar.d the precious
quicksilver exudes in a liquid stream or vat'O, und
is caught and bottled for market.

Other cinnabar veins of promise, as other copper
mines, arc in existence, and to a greater or less (ex-
tent improved, but these are the distinctive and
controlling interests in both metals. In crossing
the Rocky Mountains from Denver to Salt Lake
City, I remember seeing evidences of generous cin-
nabar deposits at various points along the North
Platte ; and the United States are probably destined
to be the great producers of quicksilver.

California is not without its petroleum, also:
there has been fierce dispute as to its existence ;
much of furore in the search for it ; and much wild
speculation, into which the East has been drawn
most unprofitably, upon the basis of its discovery
in large quantities. That it exists, in greater or less
degree, in some form or another, in one or two of

riNENT.

housiind 1 1 five thou-
ty dolb's ■■. Husk, and
1 are al)out one hun-
Thc liistory of this
ncrship, has been full
;lisinite over it, a long
lid in litij;ation, and
ms. It is now owned
vith a cai)ital of ten
: property. The cin-
earth or ore, which is
icr ore, fashioned into
t up into a kiln, and
r it ; ar.d the precious

stream or vaT>o. , and
ket.

omise, as other copper
o u greater or less ex-
e the distinctive and

metals. In crossing
Denver to Salt Lake
2nces of generous cin-
)ints along the North
3 are probably destined
quicksilver,

: its petroleum, also:
te as to its existence ;
for it ; and much wild
East has been drawn

basis of its discovery
exists, in greater or less
Dther, in one or two of

.*'*>

'^^y^

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

:/j

1.0

I.I

I^|2j8 |25

!^ m .

140 111112.0

2.2

L25 lliu IIIIII.6

"^W^

■ST

Photographic

Sciences

Corporation

23 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, N.Y. MSftO

(716) 872-4503

». ^

'^J^

•^

MMT'

»M» vrac-wnnFT^n^ ««i,iq»'»- '

CIHM/ICMH

Microfiche

Series.

CIHM/ICMH
Collection de
microfiches.

Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions / Institut Canadian de microreproductions historiques

THE PETROLEUM FEVER — OIL VS. WINE. 35/

the distant Coast counties, may no longer be dis-
puted ; but it yet remains to be proven whether it
exists under successful commercial circumstances,
that is, whether it will pay. I believe there is no
well-authenticated case of a flowing well yet ; I am
sure much more money has been put into the wells
than has been taken from them ; and I am positive
that the only money yet made from petroleu-i on
the Pacific Coast has been made by the land-own-
ers and the speculators. The oil fever has clearly
a better basis and a more healthy promise in the
East than at the West ; and yet, under the influence
of rhetorical representations by speculators and
their agents, two companies of eastern capitalists
have put up large sums of money, and bought a
quarter of a million of acres of supposed oil lands
in the southern counties of California. Their
search for the oil has not had brilliant success yet ;
and one of the companies has adopted the very
sensible plan of turning their land to good account
by planting it with grape vines and going into the
manufacture of wine. This is not the entertain-
ment to which they invited themselves, but it cer-
tainly promises better resiUts. They propose to set
out ten millions of vines within two years ; and the
other company in the same position will probably
follow suit with both vines and olives. This is an
odd turn for a petroleum speculation to take, but it
is fortunate for the true interests of California, and
if well followed up will prove remunerative to the
victims of the oil fever, — and Professor Silliman's
rhetorical report.

LETTER XXXI.

THE FAREWELL FESTIVITIES : POLITICS AND FOL-
ITICIANS.

San Francisco, September 2.
There is something of pathos in the very word
parting. Few can confront the fact, can break any
experience, from which life has been taken, or to
which Ufe has been given, without a flutter in the
heart. But this is my last letter from the Pacific
Coast. This morning ends the record of the " Col-
fax party" on this shore : we are closing that wealth
of experience which it is difficult to believe has
been made ours in only four months' time : host and
hostess gather to whelm us with final generosity ;
to give coup de grace to a summer of such hospi-
tality, both of sense and c. ' '% as was never ours
before. Do vou wonder we are all a trifle senti-
mental ; and that I would coin my daintiest phrase
for the final adieux? Yet the themes left on my
note-book are prosaic and practical ; and poetry fit
to the occasion is felt better than written. Besides,
these emotions, voiced to Atlantic shore, would
reach unsympathizing ears. So you shall not know
these words that are utter, d, these scenes that are
transpiring, in hotel parlor and steamer saloon, this

mor

belo

"du

wit!

a pi

coul

on 1

and

Fai

try

thei

and

the

cid(

whi

inv

nov

Scl

the

gra

pre

las

chi

me
by

XXI.

POLITICS AND rOL-

RANCisco, September 2.
nos in the very word
e fact, can break any
IS been taken, or to
hout a flutter in the
tter from the Pacific
e record of the " Col-
re closing that wealth
ficult to believe has
onths' time : host and
with final generosity ;
mmer of such hospi-
't, as was never ours
are all a trifle senti-
n my daintiest phrase
le themes left on my
ictical ; and poetry fit
lan written. Besides,
^.tlantic shore, would
So you shall not know
these scenes that are
id steamer saloon, this

THE LAST WEEK IN SAN FRANCISCO. 359

morning, as guest and host are parting. They
belong to those things that should always be taken
"during the effervescence."

Our final visit in San Francisco has been crowded
with most agreeable attentions, both of a public and
a private character. Not half that were proffered
could be enjoyed. Excursions to the country, and
on the bay ; visits to public institutions of the city
and neighborhood; the seeing of the Mechanics'
Fair, a fine exposition of the manufacturing indus-
try and art ambition of California; addresses here,
there, everywhere ; private breakfasts an*.' dinners ;
and a grand final and farewell ball and banquet by
the bankers and merchants of the city, at the Oc-
cidental Hotel, — this has been the entertainment to
which Mr. Colfax and his companions have been
invited during the last week. But all are over
now, — the Speaker has made his farewell speech;
Governor Bross has addressed the last Sunday
School ; the brass band is hushed, —

"And silence, like a poultice, comes,
To heal the blows of sound ; — "

the final phot6graph is taken, — and rare photo-
graphs, indeed, both of faces and scenery, do skill
of the artist and clearness of the air combine to
produce on this Coast : the tongue has wagged its
last good-bye; and the hour of waving handker-
chiefs is passing!

Conspicuous among the more private entertain-
ments of the week was a dinner party to Mr. Colfax
by the leading banker of the city, and to which

36o

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

were gathered from twenty to thirty of the most
noted and notable bankers and business men of the
Coast, heads and managers of the great enterprises
of the Pacific. It was a rare collection of strong
men, real kings in this Israel, and no city of the
Atlantic could marshal a superior. The dinner it-
self was a triumph, was high art itself, in its way.
It was said to have never had its equal before in
San Francisco; and I certainly never sat through
its superior, for richness and rarity, both in its ele-
ments and their serving, anywhere.

The farewell ball and banquet was a brilliant fete
of a more public character. Tv^o or three hundred
ladies and gentlemen joined in the festival; the
hotel was surrendered to its accommodation ; the
tickets were no less than twe..ty-five dollars in gold ;
and in aggregate and in detail, in preparation and
achievement, it was as elegant and- as flattering an
entertainment and social compliment as ever city
tendered or citizen received. There is more catho-
licity of feeling as to such amusements among
church people here than in the East; dancing is
not a sin, even, among the San Francisco orthodox;
and the guests were greeted at this ball by the
leaders in every good word and work in the town,
who, men and women, made them5;elves gay with
its pleasures, and contributed to its brilliancy with
their beauty and grace. I had a home pride m
recognizing, in the most womanly of the women
and the most beautiful of the belles, a daughter and
grand-daughter, respectively, of our good old, half-
century pastor of Springfield First church, the late

INENT.

» thirty of the most
business men of the
the great enterprises
collection of strong
, and no city of the
rior. The dinner it-
art itself, in its way.
,d its equal before in
ly never sat through
arity, both in its ele-
here.

et was a brilliant fete
rv^ro or three hundred
in the festival; the
accommodation; the
ty-five dollars in gold ;
il, in preparation and
it and* as flattering an
ipliment as ever city
There is more catho-
amusements among
the East ; dancing is
1 Francisco orthodox;
d at this ball by the
,nd work in the town,
them5;elves gay with
I to its brilliancy with
had a home pride in
imanly of the women
belles, a daughter and
of our good old, half-
i First church, the late

THE RESCUE FROM DISUNION.

361

venerable and venerated Dr. Osgood. I note, also,
as excellent example for eastern evening routs,
among which I never saw it, the serving of hot
beef-tea, with just a smack of claret in it, as a con-
stant refreshment during the evening. It is a most
grateful and delicate substitute for the accustomed
spirit end tea and coffee, that leave such wreck of
nerves the next day ; and it did not on this occasion
interfere with the grand banquet of the night, that
was the crowning feast of the week.

The politics of these Taclfic States are now in
hearty sympathy with these which are dominant in
the East. Their rescue from the d^nger of co-
operation with the southern rebellion, ir the temp-
tation to take advantage of the opportu lity and set
up a kingdom by themselves, seems to ha v'e been al-
most miraculous, certainly was very iia. row. There
were strong elements and many circumstances that
were leading, or likely to lead, these States in one
direction or the other. Had they been enjoying
then a vigorous and sure prosperity, the temptation
and clamor for independence would, indeed, have
been dangerous. But there was here, as in the
East, a sudden and contagious uprising of the peo-
ple for the government and the Union, that swept
all discussion before it, and saved these States from
anarchy, and the Republic a unit. So marked was
the revolution that it seemed almost the work of
one man. Rev. T. Starr King, whose voice was first
and warmest and truest. Rut he was rather the
leader than the creator of the public feeling; it
would have found other prophets, had he been want-,
16

363

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

iirr and groped and stumbled somehow to tho same
conclusions. Yet his clear, magnetic voice ana
kindling spirit gave expression and conviction to
the slumbering, half-aroused feeling; and to his
memory be great glory indeed.

California, Nevada and Oregon are now appar-
ently as fixed and decided in the possession of the
republican or Union party, as the average of the
States of the East. The type of their public men
is also much improved by the change from the old
democratic and pro-sbvcry rule. The lack of per-
sonal and political integrity, and of consequent in-
fluence, on the part of their representatives in
Cc.igress, has confessedly been a chief reason for
the want of consideration which these States and
their interests have suffered from at the han.l., of
the rovernment. They have never seemed to have
the c'omprehension to see and say what was wanted
by their constituents, or the influence to secure it.
The new men are not generally conspicuous for in-
tellectual ability ; men of that stamp here have too
-ften prostituted their character for gain or pleasure,
or are too much absorbed in the great business en-
terprises of the country to give themselves up to
public affairs; but the present representatives at
Washington and governors of the States are almost
uniSrm'v gentlemen of high personal mtegnty,
great f .od sense, and large practical qualities for
these trusts. Gove .ors Blasdell of Nevada Low
of il is State, and Cibbs of Oregon are all of this
stamp. They inspire faith and coftfidence, and give
•firm hope for States led by them.

amc

Stc

ord(

Stat

tie

and

con

inh(

his

vict

po'v

sonj

ciati

•Uni

in h

will

spic

brot

Coll

sym

its i

agai

aire;

feat.

who

by t

cept

polit

cy, i

for ;

mchow to the same

agnctic voice aucl

and conviction to

cling; and to his

on arc now appar-
e possession of the
the average of the
of their public men
:hange from the old
;. The lack of per-
d of consequent in-
reprcsentatives in
1 a Qhief reason for
ch these States and
•cm at the han.ib of
lever seemed to have
say what was wanted
ifiuence to secure it.
y conspicuous for in-
stamp here have too
r for gain or pleasure,
tie great business en-
vc themselves up to
nt representatives at
the States are almost
1 personal integrity,
practical qualities for
sdell of Nevada, Low
Dregon are all of this
d coftfidence, and give
lem.

THE I'ACIFIC SENATORS — STAk^ KING, 363

Perhaps the most influential, intellectual mind
among the Pacific congressmen is that" of Senator
Stewart of Nevada. He shows qualities of the first
order, comprehending tli< affaiis of his section, anu
stating them with vigorous effect. Mr. Conness,
ti California senator, is a disciple of Proderick,
and possesses great perseverance and force, and a
conceded integrity in public affairs, but does not
inherit the breadth and commanding qualities of
his predecessor and patron. He is too much the
victim of his hatreds and his self-conceit for largest
power ; he is rather the leader of a faction than the
senator of a State, liis unworthy democratic asso-
ciate, McDougal, is speedily to be succeeded by a
•Union man, the canvass for whose selection is now
in hot progress. It is impossible yet to say who
will be chosen. In intellectual gifts, the most con-
spicuous candidate has been Mr. John B, Felton,
brother of the late President F'elton of Harvard
College, and a leading lawyer here ; but his lack of
sympathy with the Union, when it was in peril and
its fate doubtful, and his share in private schemes
against the public welfare and the public purse, have
already stamped his impudent pretensions with de-
feat. There are half a dozen other candidates, from
whom a creditable choice can hardly fail to be made
by the next winter's Legislature.

But there is a manifest lack of men of quick per-
ceptions and strong grasp and influence among the
politicians of these States. This senatorial vacan-
cy, seeking fitting occupant, would be the occasion
for Starr King, were he living; his transference

3^4

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

from the pulpit to public life would have been a
fitting thing, and greatly to the credit of Cahiurnia.
It is interesting to note the sacred fame this nun
has left here ; there is none more sacred m all Cali-
fornia history; he is the saint of the Pacific shore.
Those who knew him at the East cannot under-
stand it; nor what he was here. He had, m this
position and under the occasion of the war and the
doubtful course of California, a new I^^P^^^"^' ^ ;^-
crcation as man and orator ; and his personal nflu-
cnce and political power,-the revolution and devel-
opment o'f public opinion that he led.-are among
the curious and impressive circumstances in per

^°^lS:r;endsthreenewmenof^-o^tothe
House this year. Mr. McRuer from the San l^r^n
Cisco district, is an intelligent merchant of Maine
and Scotch origin, and is sure to command influ-
ence in WashingJon. General Bidwell from the
north, is a farmer of broad acres and capacity, and
Mr Higby is a lawyer from the interior.

Nevada also has a new senator to choose the
next yet' in place of General Nye. who will proba-
b y not b; returned again. The politics of Oregon
J. in daneer of a counter revolution, through a
arg em gfatl^ this season from Missouri Iowa
anf Illinol the majority of whom wi be o^ em-
nrratic southern sympathizing. This emigrauon
num Wrom seven to ten thousand, men. women
^nd ch Idren. and will prove a valuable con tr.but.n
to the State's population and fundamental sou es
of wealth, though it imperil the tone of her politics.

Mr
pir
pai
Ik
ele
icy
qu;

US(

len

inj

bci

ch.

re]

St
ne
fee
a

tO'

Tl
ac
du
is

an
lai
ist

[ENT.

rould have been a
rcclit of California,
red fame this man
; sacred in all Cali-
r the Tucific shore.
Last cannot under-
;. He had, in this
of the war, and the
new baptism, a rc-
l his personal influ-
livolution and devel-
hc led,— are among
rcumstances in per-

len of -'orth to the
from the San Fran-
merchant of Maine
; to command influ-
al Bidwell from the
es and capacity, and
3 interior.

nator to choose the
Nye, who will proba-
he politics of Oregon
•evolution, through a
from Missouri, Iowa
ihom will be of dem-
ag. This emigration
nousand, men, women
valuable contribution
I fundamental sources
lie tone of her politics.

LOYALTY A PASSION.

365

Mr. Ncsmith, the senator, whose time is about ex-
piring, will hardly be the choice again of cither
party, for he holds close communion with neither.
He is accredited with advocating McClellan before
election, and supporting Mr. Lincoln and his pol-
icy afterwards. Not a great man, he has sterling
qualities of sense and honesty, and has proven a
useful legislator. To him is attributed that excel-
lent saying that, on coming to Washington and see-
ing the august Capitol and the dignified Senate, he
wondered how he came to be sent there ; but after
being there a few weeks, his wonder was still great-
er how the rest of them got there ! Farther north,
Washington Territory has testified her sympathy
with the new thought and life of the nation, by the
choice of a sterling Union man and pronounced
republican to Congress.

The loyalty and the patriotism of these Pacific
States are surely not less vigorous than those
nearer the center of national life. With many the
feeling here seems more a passion, a fashion, than
a principle, and it is often intolerant and rough
towards those who are • suspected of opposition.
There has, indeed, been less freedom of speech and
action in national politics in Nevada and California,
during the last year, than in New England. This
is explainable, however, by the intenser life of the
country, the more passionate habit of the people,
and the fact that the supporters of General McClel-
lan here were almost invariably genuine secession-
ists in heart and often in manifestation. The lines
were drawn here more narrowly and distinctly than

366

ACROSS THE C0>NT1NENT.

in the East, whore many truly loyal and pat no .c
men were found voting with the democrats. But
if intolerance and injustice arc ever excusable when
more so than for a Union endangered, and barely
rescued, as it seemed here, from the unholy power

of its enemies?

I must linger on the shore for an almost forgotten
paragraph about the Indians of the Pacific States.
Th;y dkl not vex our travel this side the Rocky
Mountains, as their brethren did on the other; bv.t
we saw them constantly in our journeys through
the interior. In Utah and Nevada, a poor, dirty,
squalid race; apparently inoffensive and inccjmpe-
tent; beggars and poor servants. " Ca^itoa
and Oregon and Washington, subdued and a shade
civilized, industrious in small degree, farming a lit-
tle fishing a good deal,-hewers of wood and draw-
ers of wa'er.-but fading out fast. Along the Co-
lumbia, they were squatted in "T ^'-^", ^'^ ^ but
bank laying in their annual supplies of salmon, but
Sg for ?he most part back in the mountains.
There is a little war with the Indians in northern
Nevada, and the Apaches down in Arizona a stal-
wart and fighting race, are making serious trouble
so that troops have been sent to subdue them bu
for the rest of the Pacific Coast, the ---"t^ "/
the Indian tribes are apparently peaceable and dis-
posed to continue so. The testimony is universa
in these States that the whites have originated most
of the troubles with the Indians. The great Ore-
gon Indian war of some years ago «'as clearly pro-
voked by whites, as a means of speculating in sup-

pile

lust

inti

ma;

goc

rev

arii

cas

the

apt

tra

the

zat

bC;

pa
ou
du
ad

ENT.

THE INDIANS, AND THE "SLANG.

367

lyal and i)atnotic
: democrats. lUit
;r excusable, when
leered, and barely
the unholy power

m almost forpotten
the Pacific States,
is side the Rocky

on the other ; but
• journeys through
vada, a poor, dirty,
sive and incompc-
its. In California
ibelued, and a shade
igrec, farming a lit-

of wood and draw-
ist. Along the Co-
umbers by the river
plies of salmon, but

in the mountains.
Indians in northern
n in Arizona, a stal-
ling serious trouble,
:o subdue them ; but
ast, the remnants of
ly peaceable and dis-
istimony is universal
have originated most
ins. The great Ore-

ago was clearly pro-
)f speculating in sup-

plies for carrying on the war against them. The
lust of coarse white men for their women; the
introduction of whiskey among them; abuse an'
maltreatment in various ways arc the origin of a
good many Indian outrages, and these lead into al-
most necessary wars of extermination. The Indian
revenges indiscriminately ; when he turns, he falls
on innocent as likely as on guilty; and so wars
arise, and go on. Often, doubtless, too, is this the
case, l-iast and West : mean and sordid whites stir
the Indian's blood, teach him the ways of mischief,
wherein ignorance and barbarity have made him an
apt scholar, and robbery, murder and war ensue in
order. The path of government duty ifi difficult to
trace through such crossing links of criminality;
but tlie ends of keeping the lines of travel open,
the telegraph unbroken, emigration safe, and civili-
zation progressing, are certain. These things must
be, even if they oblige the government to antici-
pate the natural extermination of time. But this
ought not to be necessary, and need not, if our In-
dia^n department were both vigorously and wisely
administered.

The slang phrases and idioms, original and in use
among the people of these States, are very odd, and
some of them quite expressive. Few or none of
those I noticed in Colorado are known here. Each
section has a set of its own. "You bet" is one of
the most common here ; it is a strong affirmation
or approval, as the " That's so " of the East. " Get "
or "You get" is go, go along, clear out; drivers
shout this to their horses. "Get up and Git," and

368

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

"Get up and Dust," arc enlarged, emphasised forms
of the same. "You can't prove it by me" is also
very common for doubt or disapproval or ignorance ;
and "None of it in mine" is declination of proffer,
and the like, and was probably borrowed from the
declination to take "bitters" or any extra fillip in
one's drink. "Bilk" stands for a humbug, an im-
poster, a "poor coot." "On iv." is a much-used,
condensed, epigrammatic phrase, with varying ap-
plications. It signifies, in that line, after something
especial, determined, in earnest, and the like. As
applied to a woman, it generally means that she is
in a wicked way. " Weaken " and " To weaken " are
very expressive, meaning failing strength, courage or
purpose. A man "weakens" is that he is backing
down or backing ^nt The mines furnish many
new phrases : " Pan out" for turning out or amount-
ing to ; as, a man will "pan out" good or bad, or an
enterprise "pans out" much or little. "Peter out"
is coming to nothing, failing, giving out altogether.
"Show" and "color" come from the evidences of
gold found in washing sand, and are applied to per-
sons and things and undertakings. "Corral," from
the Spanish word for cattle-guard or high fence, is
applied to catching, cornering, getting into control.
Thus I heard a man in Nevada say the Montgomery
street brokers had " corralled" all the stock of a cer-
tain mine, and could, therefore, put it up or down as
they pleased.

But I am lingering beyond my dat-e on these
themes. The last gun of the steamer is fired ; the
farewell banners of good-will and affection are fad-

t...

ap
Pa
for
St;
ior
lin
Er
of
du
thi
no

lENT.

emphasi..ct'_forms
it by me" is also
oval or ignorance ;
lination of proffer,
)orrowed from the
any extra fillip in
a humbug, an im-
" is a much-used,
I, with varying ap-
ne, after something
and the like. As
means that she is
d" To weaken "are
strength, courage or
that he is backing
ines furnish many
ling out or amount-
' good or bad, or an
little. "Peter out"
iring out altogether,
n the evidences of
i are applied to per-
gs. " Corral," from
,rd or high fence, is
getting into control,
lay the Montgomery
11 the stock of a cer-
Dut it up or down as

my dat-e on these
teamei is fired ; the
tid affection are fad-

home: CALIFORNIA'S FUTURE.

369

ing from view ; the Golden Gate grows wide at our
approach ; the Golden City sails out into the broad
Pacific sea ; and we turn our eyes and our thoughts
forward for Home. But California and her sister
States enlarge upon the inward, the backward vis-
ion. It runs quickly and surely to a world-encirc-
ling commerce, a world-embracing civilization, an
Empire that shall be the glory and the culmination
of the American Republic. The share and the
duty of the present generation, East and West, in
this progress, is the Pacific Railroad. Let them
not linger over that ! '

16* OA

LETTER XXXII. .

THE VOYAGE HOME BY STEAMSHIP AND THE
ISTHMUS.

New York, September 23, 1865.
No one's knowledge of California life is complete,
who does not go or come by the steamship and
Panama route. It offers as strange and interesting
and instructive experience as any other feature of
our summer journeyings over the Contment It is
the main, almost sole route for business and pleas-
ure travel between the Pacific and Atlantic Coasts.
Two or three thousand persons pass each way by it
every month. Where one goes overland, hundreds
take this route. There is no ocean steamship route
in the world, over which so many people have passed
and are passing; none on which the service is so
well performed as it has been on a part of this, and
promises to be henceforth on the whole; none that
introduces the traveler to such novelties of climate
and scenery and peoples,-none which aflfords so va-
ried and unique experiences with nature and human
nature It is as odd and anomalous as nearly every-
thing else is that belongs to California and the Pa-
cific Coast. The stamp of originality imprints itself
on all the features of that country and its civilization.

(

dai
lat
thr
mi
sie
ag(
im
Co
ka:
coi
m(
stc
ier
dr.
hu
dri
de
ve
tei

mi
ro
se
he
se
de
in
ur
m
ar
ke

YOUR COMPANIONS ON THE VOYAGE. 37 1

ill.

MSIIIP AND THE

, September 23, 1865.

lia life is complete,
he steamship and
ige and interesting
ly other feature of
e Continent. It is
jusiness and pleas-
id Atlantic Coasts,
pass each way by it
overland, hundreds
?an steamship route
people have passed
;h the service is so
1 a part of this, and
e whole ; none that
novelties of climate
which aflFords so va-
h nature and human
lous as nearly every-
difornia and the Pa-
nality imprints itself
y and its civilization.

Going to Europe by steamship is ten or twelve
days on a rough sea, out sight of land, in the same
latitude and climate, in company with two hundred to
three hundred people at the outside, who are pretty
much like yourself, or at least with whose idiosyncra-
sies you are more or less familiar. To many this voy-
age is only a dreary confinement to rolling berth ; an
imprisonment, without the security of penitentiary.
Coming from California by steamer is to this as a
kaleidoscope to common spectacles. You have for
companions one thousand, more or less, — and oftener
more than less, — of the all-est sorts of people. The
steamship is larger, more commodious and conven-
ient than any other elsewhere. There are two hun-
dred or more first class passengers, perhaps three
hundred second class, and four hundred to five hun-
dred steerage. The latter are quartered forward,
deck and hold, and are limited to that portion of the
vessel. The first and second classes occupy the cen-
ter and stern of the ship, and have many rights in
common. Both eat in the same saloon, but their
meals are served at different hours. The state-
rooms of the first class are on deck ; the berths of the
second class are below : perhaps the chief distinction,
however, is that the first class dine at four, and the
second at one. They mingle very much together on
deck, and morals and manners are generally as good
in one set as the other. The food is good, even lux-
urious, and nearly equal to first class hotel fare : beef,
mutton, pork and poultry are carried on board alive,
and the butcher has his daily slaughtering to do, to
keep this army of hungry boarders in meats.

372

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

The crowd is the only source of standing disrom'
fort We are as thick as flies in August ; four and
five in a state-room ; we must needs divide into eat-
ing battalions, and go twice for our meals: would
we have chairs to sit in shade around the decks, we
must buy and bring them: there is no privacy;
gamblers jostle preachers; commercial women di-
vide state-rooms with fine ladies; honest miners in
red flannel sit next my New York exquisite in
French broadcloth :— and as for the babies, they
fairly swarm,— the ship is one grand nursery; and
like the British drum-beat, the discordant music of
their discomfort follows sun, moon and stars through
every one of every twenty-four hours. There were
at least one hundred of them on our ship ; and new
and kinder notions of old King Herod prevailed
among suffering passengers. The new historian
Froude makes saint and anchorite of wife-changing,
woman-killing Henry the Eighth: why should not
some ambitious rival, gaining new light from the
California voyage, make public benefactor of baby-
slaughtering Herod ?

We go out the Golden Gate into the Pacific ocean,
and turn down along the shore. It is three thou>
sand miles, or fourteen days, from San Francisco to
Panama ; from latitude thirty-eight degrees to seven
degrees, from temperate to tropic. There is rarely
any rough sea in this part of the trip; for most of
the way, the steamer keeps in sight of the land ;
some captains on the route make straight lines and
go across the mouths of gulfs and bays and other
indentations of water into land,— and so sometimes

mc
Ca
co;
sei
kc
for
of

m(
sal
oft
sn
ho
up
bo
sic
foi
fee

ba
to
ric
fla
so

Sti

flc
br
loi
at

vi;

iNT.

DOWN THE PACIFIC COAST.

373

Standing disc om'
August ; four and
\s divide into cat-
)ur meals: would
md the decks, we
e is no privacy;
ercial women di-
honest miners in
''ork exquisite in
the babies, they
xnd nursery; and
scordant music of
and stars through
lurs. There were
)ur ship ; and new
Herod prevailed
'he new historian
; of wife-changing,
1 : why should not
ew light from the
enefactor of baby-

3 the Pacific ocean,
It is three thou-
1 San Francisco to
tit degrees to seven
:. There is rarely
e trip ; for most of
sight of the land ;
; straight lines and
,nd bays and other
—and so sometimes

meet severer sea and storm ; but our accomplished
Captain Bradbury of Golden City finds economy of
coal, equal progress, and greater pleasure to pas-
sengers in following the Coast around, — and so we
kept company with rock and mountain and verdure
for at least eleven of our fourteen days. For much
of the way, we were- within rifle shot of land ; we
could see the different kinds of trees, houses and
men, and study geography to perfection ; it was like
sailing down a broad river or through a pond, for
often, by days together, the water was as mirror for
smoothness ; and only once or twice, and for a few
hours then, were sensitive stomachs upbraided and
upheaved for Neptune's sake. Indeed, it is steam-
boating, rather than steam.shipping, on the Pacific
side ; and the boats can be and are larger, — up to
four thousand tons in capacity and four hundred
feet in length, — than on the Atlantic, with wide and
convenient guards along the deck, that are forbidden
in rougher seas.

The Coast hills along California make rough and
barren work of the shore view ; but as we get down
to Mexico, the hills open and become clothed with
rich green. The weather, never cold, grows hot ;
flannels come off"; the fortunate in white linen blos-
som out in spotless garb; the close and crowded
state-rooms turn out their sleepers on to the cabin
floors, the decks, everywhere and anywhere that a
breath of air can be wooed; babies lie around
loosely and au nature/; you have to pick your way
at night about tb o open parts of the ship, as tender
visitor to battle-field at Gettysburg. The languor

374

ACROSS THK CONTINENT.

of the tropics comes over yoi' all; perspirOvion
stands in great drops, or flows in rivulets from the
body ; a creamy, hazy feeling possesses the senses ;
vvorV mg is abandoned ; reading becomes an effort ;
card-playing ceases to lure ; dreaming, dozing and
scandal-talking grow to be the occupations of the
ship's company,— possibly scandal-making, for the
courtesans become bold and flaunt, and the weak
and impudent show that they are so.

Half way down, at the end of first week, we stop
at Acapulco, the chief Mexican port on the Pacific
Coast, founded by Spain, and famous in the days
of her prosperous American commerce. It lies
beautifully, under the hills, back of an island, which
forms exquisite and safe bay. Here we. taste of
tropical life on shore ; here we sample the Mexicans
and Mexican Republic. It is a pitiful civilization
that they present, and not very inspiring of sympa-
thy or hope. The Mexican population is several
thousands, and there are only two or three families
of whites. The Mexicans are a mulattoish race, an
apparent cross between Indians and negroes, with
here and there a vein of Spanish blood. Indolence
and incompetency mark their life and character.
The principal local industry appears to be the sup-
plying of the passengers on the steamships, that
stop here, going either way. for coal and provisions,
with fruits and fancy shell-work. The houses arc
low, adobe, and with thick walls, and whitewashad
on the outside ; the streets no wider than a gener-
ous city sidewalk ; the plaza or church square opens
broad but barren,— and here is the market-place,

wh(

sim

of'

dre

goc

anc

ser

all:

roll

the

tra

eve

an(

cei

tht

inf

in{

th(

fei

on
mi
in
ha
he
fo!
hi
th

NT.

all; perspirOvion
rivulets from the
tisses the senses ;
2comcs an effort ;
ming, dozing and
ccupations of the
1-making, for the
nt, and the weak
so.

rst week, we stop
ort on the Pacific
nous in the days
immerce. It lies
f an island, which
[iere we. taste of
nple the Mexicans
pitiful civilization
ispiring of sympa-
lulation is several
a or three families
nulattoish race, an
and negroes, with
blood. Indolence
ife and character.
;ars to be the sup-
e steamships, that
oal and provisions,
The houses arc
, and whitewashed
dder than a gener-
tiurch square opens
the market-place,

THE EVENING AT ACAPULCO.

375

where, from little stands or on the pavement, the
simple wares and food and fruits and fancy shells
of the people, are offered for sale by gross women,
dreary old hags, or precocious girls ; and chaffering
goes on day and evening with citizen and stranger.
A few of us landed and spent the evening on shore ;
and it was a weird scene that the market-place pre-
sented under rude and scant torch-light. Occasion-
ally we found a comely girl among the stands, with
rounded arm and bright eye, and such usually got
the best bargains from our party. A trick of the
trade is to make you a present of some petty article,
even to force it upon you, with flattering manner
and speech, — and then to expect gallant and rjunifi-
cent return in coin. This is type of tropical trading
the world over, and in all ages, I believe. Did not
Abraham or other of the old prophets buy land for
burial pla* for his kindred under such embarrass-
ing circumstances ? Close and heavy was the even-
ing's heat ; and the people, not busy trading with
the Yankees, laid around loose in hammocks, or on
the floors of piazza, thinly raimented, stolid, indif-
ferent and indolent.

Mr. Colfax and some of his friends went to call
on Geneml Alvarez, the Mexican (Juarez) com-
mander of all this region, and by the help of an
interpreter had some talk with him. The general
has reputation as one of the best men of his party ;
he seemed substantial and sensible in mind ; and
for his body was a big, burly negro. We met at
his place a younger and livelier representative of
the Mexicans, a member of the Liberal Congress,

i— i

376 ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

who spoke with zeal and intelligence of his country
and its cause, and was disposed to upbraid Mr. Col-
fax a trifle for not more heartily espousing their
side against Maximilian, in his California speeches.
Such men as these two inspire some interest and
fuith in their country ; but the general effect of all
we saw and learned at Acapulcc was not very en-
couraging. Without our aid, dire:iy or indirectly,
we were assured by American residents, there was
little hope for the Mexican rcsistants to Maximil-
ian's authority. The interference of the United
States in some form or another was his fear and
their faith. Acapulco itself alternates in posses-
sion between the two parties. A French man-of-
war comes into the harbor ; General Alvarez and
his followers retreat into the back country ; and the
Frenchmen possess a barren town. Thev go away,
a '' the Mexican leaders come back, Eitlier way,
there is little Hifference in affairs ; there is no com-
merce save such a.^ the American steamships make,
and this goes on uninterruptedly. Though Aca-
pulco is the largest town in the west of Mexico, its
chief Pacific port, theie is no" " single road out
from it to the interior ; there is no ingre^ or egress
save on foot or horseback ; no other means of com-
munication between it and the capital. The town
has no wheeled vehicle of higher pretensions than
a wheelbarrow. What can be done for a people
who, with two hundred years and more of contact
with civilization, can do no more for themselves ? It
was season of religious festivity v/hen we were there ;
and a third distinguished personage we met at Al-

vai
wh
chi
for
fol

sti:
sid
coi
cig
toi
sei
foi
M(
so
an
ch
Oi
fri
pli

St(

tic

.St(

th:
icc
pa
op
pli
in

ENT.

nee of his country
> upbraid Mr. Coi-
y espousing their
ilifornia speeches.
lOme interest and
ineral effect of all

was not very en-
;:iy or indirectly,
sidcnti), there was
tants to Maximil-
;e of the United

was his fear and
irnates in posses-
A. French nian-of-
leral Alvarez and

country ; and the
1. Thev go away,
ack. Eitiier way,
; there is no com-
i steamships make,
y. Though Aca-
vest of Mexico, its
". single road out
o ingre^ or egress
her means of com-
apital. The town
r pretensions than
done for a people
d more of contact
or themselves } It
hen we were there ;
age we met at Al-

TRADINO WITH THE MEXICANS.

377

varez's head-quarters was a fat old mulatto priest,
who had rome in from the interior to preside at the
church ceremonies, and had brought along with him
for Christian solace and refection, for himself and
followers, a couple of hundred rare fighting cocks!
When we returned to the steamer, there was
still a crowd of little boats along and under her
sides, filled with Mexicans of all ages, sexes and
conditions of raiment; with their stocks of fruits,
cigars, eggs and shells; fitfully lit up with pine
torches ; and engaged in noisy traffic with the pas-
sengers on the decks far above. It was not possible
for many of the passengers to go on shore, and the
Mexicans were not allowed to come on to the ship ;
so with mingled shoutings of English and Spanish,
and bj' the help of baskets and long ropes, the ex-
change of com and commodities went on for hours.
Oranges and bananas and limes were the principal
fruits, and were alike fresh and cheap ; and large sup-
plies were taken in by both passengers and the ship's
steward. It was interesting and exciting interrup-
tion to the monotony of the voyage to make this
stop at Acapulco ; and to passengers coming down
the Coast, it gives the first close observation of trop-
ical life and vegetation. Here were the groves of
palm, of banana, of cocoa-nut ; here, luxuriant in the
open air, the broad leaves and rich colors of many
plants that are seen in the temperate latitudes only
in hot-houses ; here, fresh from trees, on the trees,
were the delicious fruits that come tg us at homo
only after long voyages, and often stale and tasteless.
. On down the 'Coast again, by Mexico, out of

S78

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

si^'ht, of course, but not out of thought '>f its
mammolh volcano, I'opocatapctl, the hii^hest known
mountain of North America, (seventeen thousand
seven hundred and eighty-three feet) ; across the
gulfof Tehuantepec; by Guatemala; by its wonder-
ful and beautiful volcnnic mountains, peaceful now,
but exquisite in outline, perfect in cone-shapes, and
rising to thirteen thousand and fourteen thousand
feet in hight ; by San Salvador ; amused with the
lively little flying fishes that single or in shoals
skipped from wave to wave, flashing in the sunlight,
as dexterous boy skips bright stone over the water,
and awed with tropical lightning that made the
heavens all aglow with wide and frequent flashes ;
by Nicaragua, where the opposition line of steamers,
as yet weak, stop, and their passengers cross to
Atlantic waters ; then Costa Rica ; steering easterly
all this while to keep the tapering Continent ; last
New Granada; and on early morning at close of
fortnight, rounding into the wide, warm bay of
Panama, where the narrow neck of land, that con-
nects and divides two seas and two Continents,
confronts us. It is a charming scene, as we go by
the richly-green islands of the bay, one with thriv-
ing-looking town at its base, another holding sa-
credly exclusive the sad burial-place for strangers
and travelers, another the depot for the steamships,
others undisputed with luxuriant and grasping na-
ture, and anchor, amid all, in front of the quaint
old city of Janama. The harbor itself is center for
wide commerce North and South, gathering here to
cross the Isthmus, and reach Aiherican :vnd Euro-

pcai
ligh
V
The
two
was
cen
eag

up,
cab
ton
dop
bea
gra
the

fe\
wl:

sij

ENT.

)f thought (f its
:hc highest known
vcntcen thousand

feet) ; across the
ila ; by its wonder-
ins, peaceful now,
1 cone-shapes, and
fourteen thousand

amused with the
ingle or in shoals
ng in the sunlight,
ine over the water,
fig that made the
:1 frequent flashes;
)n line of steamers,
\ssengers cross to
I ; steering easterly
ng Continent ; last
orning at close of
ide, warm bay of
: of land, that con-
d two Continents,
scene, as we go by
jay, one with thriv-
nother holding sa-
place for strangers
for the steamships,
it and grasping na-
front of the quaint
)r itself is center for
h, gathering here to
Liherican :vnd Euro-

DEATH ON SHIPBOARD.

379

pcan centers ; but a bad bar forces the slow use of
lighters for passengers and freight.

We left the steamer one less than came upon it.
There was a death among the steerage passengers,
two days before reaching Panama; but the body
was brought on, and lies now in the lonely strangers'
cemetery out in the bay. Poor fellow! He was
eager to go " home " to die. That hope buoyed him
up, as it keeps alive a feeble, struggling lady in the
cabin: but disease was too strong for even this
tonic,— and now he lies buried, afar from kindred,
dependent upon strangers for the last offices, and
bearing, painted on the simple board above his
grave, these more sympathetic than coherent lines,
the composition of one of the ship's guard :—

Death chanced to roam o'er
the ocean'.s breast.
And spied a hapless wandcr-

-er wanting rest,
Who from the western land of

gold returning
To see his childhood's home
was yearning.
But unpitying death, with
resistless stroke.
The casket of his soul broke ope,
And set forth to another home
From whence again it ne'er
will roam.

We spent the day from early morning till late
evening upon the Isthmus. By grace and gold, a
few passengers were landed at once at Panama,
which gave us several hours there for breakfast, for
sight-seeing, for shopping, before the great crowd

t^imm

380

ACROSS THE CONTINKNT.

of our company, the baRK-'RC and the fast freight
couUl be transhipped, and the trains for their con-
veyance over to Aspinwall be made ready. Panama
we found to be only an improvement over Acapulco ;
it mingled more modern quality with its as ancient
features ; the streets were broadc*r ; the houses of
two stories ; and carta and rickety omnibuses, and
a fiuc carriage or two, as well as retail stores by
Jews or Yankees, and large warehouses under ICng-
lish or American superintciulence, showed the in-
novations and elevations of commerce. There was
a flavor of Spanish about everything, however ; the
food, the churches, the stores, the town generally ;
decayed, effete, luxuriant, tropical Spanish. The
natives were a good deal mixed, wearing all the
mulatto shades; the women flaunting in narrow,
sleazy white gowns, rich with wide negro ruffles and
furbelows; and the children rollicking in single,
short, wide chemises, or unblushing and bold with
utter freedom of covering. The churches, ancient,
cheap and moss-grown, won no veneration except
for their antiquity ; they told of no interest in re-
ligion ; of nothing but a tawdry, vulgar fanaticism ;
a lazy, cock-fighting priesthood, and an indifferent
parish. We found the bats flying about in the
arches above and behind the altar, and priests and
boys firing guns at them among the poor tinselry
of the worship, with results more damaging to "bell,
book and candle" than birds. The things to buy
here at Panama are fine linen lawns for ladies'
dresses ; they are delicate and pretty, and, Panama
being a free port, cheap; besides which they are

ra c
cit.»
in c
war
pon

/
star
wai
ble
ma<
to (
rail
the
imj
and
noj
bot
tra
ses
rid(
are
of
pos
froi
oth

]
sta
eye
thr
fiei
Sp
da^

IF. NT.

ul the fast freight
I'ins fur their euii-
le ready. Tanania
:nt over Acapulcd ;
with its as ancient
l<?r; the houses of
;ty omnibuses, and
as retail stores by
houses under Eng-
ce, showed the in-
merce. There was
tiing, however ; the
le town generally;
cal Spanish. The
id, wearing all the
Hinting in narrow,
[le negro ruffles and
allicking in single,
[ling and bold with
?. churches, ancient,
) veneration except
f no interest in re-
, vulgar fanaticism ;
, and an indifferent
ying about in the
tar, and priests and
,g the poor tinselry
2 damaging to "bell,
The things to buy
n lawns for ladies'
pretty, and, Panama
des which they are

THE RAILROAD OVER THE ISTHMUS.

381

ra -ely to be had in New York, or other northern
ci».es. Our passengers also found some bargains
in other linen goods and under clothing ; and their
wardrobes were sen.sibly improved, without corres-
ponding benefit to Uncle Samuel's customs revenue.

At mid-day, the long and crowded passenger train
started Across the Isthmus,— treasure and baggage
waited for a second,— and we had that ever-memora-
ble ride, in the experience of all who have ever
made this trip, between the Continents, from ocean
to ocean, in the very fullness of the tropics, over
rails fairly built upon human bodies, so fatal was
the miasma of the country to nearly all classes of
imported laborers. The road is fifty miles long,
and the run is made in two to three hours. Mo-
nopolizing the commerce of all the Pacific Coast of
both North and South America, the gateway for all
travel from Continent to Continent, it is a rich pos-
session to its owners. The fare for this two hour.s'
ride is no less than twenty-five dollars, and freights
are correspondingly high. The sleepers and ties
of the track are of lignum-vitae wood, the telegraph
posts of cement, as thus only are both protected
from rot and insect. The road is well appointed in
other respects, and the service unexceptionable.

But the ride was rare revelation. All was sub-
stantially new and strange to our unused northern
eyes; and we stared and wondered and absorbed
through all this tropical passage. The sun was not
fierce ; one will suffer more from heat in a ride from
Springfield to New York of a dry and dusty August
day ; but the warmth was deep and high, — it lay in

3^2

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

thick, heavy, sensuous folds in the air,— it did not
fret, but it permeated and subdued and enriched.
With Nature, it was st ison of rest,— cobrs were
dulled from the spring and early summer hues,—
but what quantity ! what ripaiess and fullness, what
luxuriant, wanton rioting! There was no limit to
variety or aboundingness of tree and shrub, and
plant and flower and grass. Waste and robbery,
there could not be in such abundance ; the vacancy
of to-day's ax or fire is filled to-morrow ; only daily
use of hatchet and scythe keeps open path. Palms
everywhere, singly and in groves, with great rough
fruit, rich in oil ; ferns as trees and in forests ; clus-
ters of bananas as big as an honest two-bushel
charcoal basket, yet hidden by the generous leaves
of their tree ; bread-fruit and cocoa-nuts ripening
and rotting out of reach of man or beast ; tall oaks
and short oaks ; little trees and big trees of every
family, interlaced so closely that you -could not tell
where one begun and the other left off; vines, ten-
der and strong, marrying everything to everybody,
running up, and running down, and running around,
dropping down lines straight and stiff like ropes,
all through the woods, making swings everywhere,
but permitting no place for their play ; great, coarse,
flaming flower, and delicate, tender microscopic bios,
som holding up its cup by roadside, between rails,
on every hand ; occasionally bright plumage of gay
bird fluttered across the vision among the thick
foliage, and hid behind leaves so wide and long
that we knew why Adam and Eve needed no tailor
or mantua-maker, — one would suffice for all ordinary

leng
cont

A
buill
and
poin
ges;
and
fore:
veg(
the
whi1
in t
negi
wan
The
girl;
the
not
whe

V
up I
gers
whc
mar
cam
The
that
the
imp
of c
soni

L-_ I

ENT.

le air,— it did not
led and enriched,
•est, — cobrs were
• summer hues, —
and fullness, what
e was no limit to
e and shrub, and
aste and robbery,
ince; the vacancy
lorrow ; only daily
)pen path. Palms
, with great rough
id in forests ; clus-
honest two-bushel
le generous leaves
ocoa-nuts ripening
or beast ; tall oaks
big trees of every
you -could not tell
left off; vines, ten-
hing to everybody,
nd running around,
nd stiff like ropes,
swings everywhere,
play; great, coarse,
er microscopic bios-,
side, between rails,
jht plumage of gay
1 among the thick
so wide and long
)ve needed no tailor
iffice for all ordinary

LIFE IN THE TROPICS.

383

length of nakedness: — thus and more like it and
continuously was our ride across the Isthmus.

At frequent intervals along the road are well-
built stations with handsome yards and gardens
and American occupants. Adjoining, and at other
points, we passed crowded negro hamlets and villa-
ges ; their houses frequently thatched both on top
and side with the generous leaves of the adjoining
forests, and their food the easy-growing fruits and
vegetables of the tropics. What work they will do
the railroad probably furnishes. The mark of the
white man is among them ; if dead, he yet liveth
in the blood of the native ; but the habit of the
negro is dominant. The climate and their rude
wants invite a lazy, sensual life, and such is theirs*-
There is small expenditure for clothes; boys and
girls, even of full-growth, stroll freely about before
the passing trains, .and among their fellows, with
not a rag of clothing to their bodies ; and the men,
when they do work, strip as fully to the task.

We pass by the thick and sinuous Chagres River,
up and down which in flat-boats the early passen-
gers by this route were pushed by the negro ; along
whose banks in this slow and painful passage did
many lie down to die ; and out of whose fetid breath
came many a long-lurking and finally fatal fever.
The passage is now made so quickly in the cars,
that there is little danger at any season of taking
the fever of the country. Exposure to the rain, or
imprudence in eating, added to a system receptive
of disease, are quite likely to bring it on ; but per-
sons in ordinary health and taking reasonable care

384

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

of themselves need have no apprehensions. As a
precaution, many travelers by this route take small
doses of quinine ^or a day or two before reaching
the Isthmus and a day or two after passing it. In
this way the system is pretty surely toned up against
the feverish tendencies of the passage.

We came into Aspinwall, in the first rain storm
that we had felt since rain and hail pelted us so
mercilessly on the Plains near Fort Kearney, most
four months ago, and found that a dreary new town of
one street, lined with hotels and shops and Jamaica
negroes and negresses. These people are proof
against this climate ; they luxuriate and thrive from
the start here, and it was due to their importation
that the railroad was finally completed, as it was,
after all other importations, white and black alike, had
fallen in their tracks along its line of rotting nature,
stirred to revengeful miasma by. shovel and i:)ick.

Aspinwall has no past like Panama, no present
and no future but what the railroad and steamships
make for it. There was a political revolution and
civil war in progress on the Isthmus as we came
through ; but what it was all about, nobody could
intelligently tell us; and we were not half so ex-
cited by the fact as we should have been over the
ebullition of a neighboring volcano, — the latter be-
ing the more strange and interesting event here in
Central America than the former. The town had
little to interest us ; plenty of tropical fruits and
imported liquors ; plenty of cheap stores, but no
" bargains," and not a wanting watch crystal on the
I tlmuis ! So we were glad when the baggage was

riNENT.

pprehensions. As a
this route take small
two before reaching
after passing it. In
irely toned up against
passage.

the first rain storm
nd hail pelted us so
Fort Kearney, most
a dreary new town of
d shops and Jamaica
se people are proof
riate and thrive from
to their importation
completed, as it was,
teand black alike, had
ine of rotting nature,
ly. shovel and i:)ick.
Panama, no present
Iroad and steamships
litical revolution and
Isthmus as we came
about, nobody could
were not half so ex-
have been over the
Icano, — the latter be-
resting event here in
men The town had
f tropical fruits and
cheap stores, but no
: watch crystal on the
hen the baggage was

ON THE ATLANTIC SIDE.

385

all on board our new steamer, and the gun sum-
moned us to follow it to our places.

The steamship service on the Atlantic side, be-
tween Aspinwall and New York, has been very
poor for years ; a disreputable monopoly, and greatly
aggravating the perils and discomforts of the Cali-
fornia voyage. But lately the management has
been changed, and the service much improved ; and
we were in the luck to connect with a new and ele-
gant steamship, on her first voyage, and under com-
mand of that Nestor of Isthmus-going sailors. Cap-
tain Tinklepaugh. The discomfort of a crowd
continued and increased, for the vessel was of less
size than that of the Pacific side ; and we missed
the shambles and the butcher's shop before getting
through, for the meats for the round trip on this
side, covering twenty days' time, are taken out of
New York on the ice. But in all other respects
the accommodations and service were beyond criti-
cism ; and old travelers on the route reported the
improvement from the sad past beyond description.

Good fortune attended us, too, in the weather ; the
September equinoctial was past due, but we escaped
even the breath of it. The Caribbean Sea forgot
its accustomed crispness and spared our stomachs
and appetites. Threading our way through the
West India Islands ; stopping at none, and catching
glimpse of but few ; passing near but outside Cuba,
and waving our hands to its eastern shores, we swept
up on calm waters, under summer skies, into the
^road Atlantic ; caught the Gulf Stream and crossed
it ; cherished our fears of a rough time "off Hat-
«7 25

386

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

teras." and woke to pass the dreaded spot on the
smoothest sea of all; and, our steamer bemg fast
and on her trial trip, and winds and seas favonng
from first to last, we disposed of our two thousand
miles, and swept into never more beautiful New
York harbor on soft September morning, and up to
the dock, in just six days and a half from Aspmwal ,
this being the shortest trip ever made by any vessel.
Though one day longer on the Pacific side than
usual, the whole journey from San Francisco to
New York was thus accomplisned in twenty-one
days The whole distance is five thousand miies;
with* fine weather and crowding the steamers up to
their fullest power, it can be passed over in eijihteen
or nineteen days ; but the trip is ordinarily extended
to twenty-two to twenty-four days. The tropcal
weather kept with us until within two days of New
York, and indeed is the usual experience of two-
thirds to three-fourths the voyage, on both Coasts,
whatever the season. On this side no land is seen
from leaving the Isthmus till Cuba, and none agam till
the Jersey shore is sighted as New York is neared.
The whole line of this service, on both sides the
Continent, has now passed into the hands of the
Pacific Mail Steamship Company, heretoioie con-
trolling: only the steamers on the Pacific Coast.
TWs eve' t is hailed with delight by all Calhornia
^r^velers Old and new. The Pacific Company is
the most notable triumph of our American steam
marine, and is as popular as it has been successful
So passenger steamships in the world are larger or
more elegant than theirs ; no service more satisfac^

INENT.

Ircadcd spot on the
■ steamer being fast
is and seas favoring
of our two thousand
more beautiful New
r morning, and up to
half from Aspinwall,
r made by any vessel,
the Pacific side than
m San Francisco to
lisned in twenty-one
five thousand miles;
jg the steamers up to
issed over in eighteen
is ordinarily extended
r days. The tropical
thin two days of New
al experience of two-
>yage, on both Coasts,
is side no land is seen
:uba, and none again till
5 New York is neared.
■vice, on both sides the
into the hands of the
npany, heretoiore con-
on the Pacific Coast,
eiight by all California
le Pacific Company is
)f our American steam
it has been successful,
the world are larger or
Lo service more satisfac-

THE PACIFIC MAIL STEAMSHIP COMPANY. 387

tory to the public. They have within a year put
three new and mammoth, vessels on the Pacific
portion of the line, and new and larger and better
steamers than have ever been employed on this side
will be at once placed in the service to connect with
them. A uniform excellence in accommodations
will be maintained on both sets of steamers ; and for
the fir.st time in the history of California emigration
and commerce, their facilities will be somewhat
commensurate to their extent and importance, and
the voyage will invite rather than deter the traveler.
For the past few months, the tide of travel has
been greater from than to California;; the larger
prosperity of the East has invited home the unsuc-
cessful there; but this is n- ikely to continue.
The general flow must be the oiher way. And with
these more agreeable facilities, and a widening curi-
osity and interest in the region of the Pacific Coast,
there will soon grow up a large pleasure travel from
the Atlantic States to those of the Pacific. The
public and the Pacific Steamship Company are both
fortunate in the new arrangement, and the pros-
perity of the latter is likely to be still more conspic-
uous. The owners and chief managers are in New
York ; though all its heavy interests and property
have been till now on the Pacific Coast ; and now it
has added still further to its undertakings the pro-
posed line of steamships between San Francisco
and China. Larger and stauncher ships, if possible,
will be built for this service, than are run on the
Coast ; the line is to commence wi.h 1867 ; and the
event will mark a new era in the commercial history

388

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

of the Pacific and the RepubUc. So fortuni.te has
this steamship company jDcen, though it lost one of
its best vessels (the Golden Gate) three years ago
by fire, that its three new ships o© the Pacific Coast,
costing a million of dollars each, were all built out
of the profits of insuring its own property. Its
steamers will henceforth run three times a month
between California and New York, and the fares for
passengers are established at three hundred and
fifty dollars for first-class, two hundred and fifty dol-
lars for second, and one hundred and twenty-five
dollars for steerage. These rates seem high ; but
they include board and the passage across the Isth-
mus, and are really but a little higher in proportion
than the steamship rates to Europe, while the ex-
penses in the latter service are much less. All the
coal, for instance, used by the Pacific steamers, has
to be carried way around Cape Horn from the East.
No adequate source of supply has yet been devel-
oped on the Pacific Coast. '

The point where relief and improvement are most
needed, it seems to me, on this great thoroughfare
of continental travel, is in the over-crowding of the
steamers. I know they must carry large numbers
in order to support such fine vessels and such an
expensive service ; but they surely do not need to
carry more than can be comfortably accommodated
with state-rooms and berths. There should be a
limit set to the number going on each steamer,
which for no reason should be exceeded. If three
steamers a month will not accommodate the pas-
sengers applying, then run four or five, — one a day.

if ne

exce

is ir

pan)

theii

will

passi

ble£

capa

all w

Thei

ture

thet

the\

are c

the :

amel

racy

straii

to m

comi

and

cent

garn
ceas(
tunit
gone
nent,
degr(

mmmmmr'-xrrr

)^9i9>mmm f m |^ . '^^' m < i *^m ^mm l^m»mlmmmmlmm

NENT.

. So fortuni.te has
lough it lost one of
,te) three years ago
to the Pacific Coast,
I, were all built out
own property. Its
iree times a month
rk, and the fares for
three hundred and
mdred and fifty dol-
ed and twenty-five
:es seem high ; but
ige across the Isth-
ligher in proportion
irope, while the ex-
much less. All the
'acific steamers, has
Horn from the East,
las yet been devel-

provement are most
great thoroughfare
ver-crowding of the
:arry large numbers
'essels and such an
rely do not need to
ably accommodated
There should be a
J on each steamer,
exceeded. If three
ommodate the pas-
or five, — one a day,

THE UNHEALTHY CROWD ON THE STEAMERS. 389

if necessary. First-class passengers ought not to
exceed three to a state-room ; that is a crowd ; more
is indecent. If the Pacific Mail Steamship Com-
pany would preserve their reputation and continue
their substantial monopoly of this great traffic, they
will have to make reform here, — to put no more
passengers on their boats than they have comforta-
ble accommodations for ; to have boats of uniform
capacity on each side the Isthmus, and to insure to
all who take tickets through just what they fay for.
There is moral unhealth in this heterogenejus mix-
ture of humanity that flows back and forth in such
close communion from California. The strong and
the true are only made wiser for the experience ; but
the vain and the weak, the susceptible and unsettled
are only and often contaminated. Everything that
the Steamship Company and its officers can do to
ameliorate these inevitable incidents of such democ-
racy of ompany in such pent-up quarters ; to re-
strain and punish the wicked ; to protect the weak;
to make the long and tedious voyage on shipboard
comfortable an^! tasteful to all, seems to have been
and to be done, except this of preventing an inde-
cent over-crowding of state-rooms and saloons.

— But the summer's journey is ended; and my
garrulity over its experiences and observations must
cease. It has been a rare experience ; a rare oppor-
tunity, happily achieved by and for us all. We have
gone together from ocean to ocean, across a Conti-
nent, up and down a Continent ; from longitude one
degree to longitude thirty-four degrees ; from lati-

390

ACROSS THE CONTINENT.

tude fifty degrees to latitude seven degrees ; travel-
ing in all some twelve thou^nd miles, half by sea,
nearly a third by stage, and the balance by railroad
and river ; crossing the great mountain ranges of
the Continent ; exploring the forests, the mines, the
commerce of a new world ; seen and learned the
field of a new empire ; enjoyed the most generous of
hospitality in every possible and imaginable form ;
and are back in our homes in a trifle more than four
months from the day of leaving them. All without
the accident of a finger's scratch ; all without break-
ing for a moment the harmony of our personal circle.
We part here ; we lay off the robes of honored guests,
that were so unexpectedly laid upon us, and so richly
endowed through all our long journey ; we return
to our accustomed lives ; but we come back with
fuller measure of the American Republic and larger
faith in its destiny. For myself, this summer bear.«
greatest increase for my knowledge and my life ; it
will be perpetual pleasure to have had it ; it will be
great glory to have contributed in any degree by
these letters to a knowledge by the American People
of the real breadth and capacity, the necessities and
the possibilities of the American Nation.

Centi
volun
New
of it i
theS
made
ment
we fir
firme(

Th
Bmon
plaini
to nir
three
briRh
tincti
a jier
inoth
featiii
see it
andn

lU
when
Aniei
nent
and r
here,
artd I
and t
evcrj
in so

Thi

Bosi

^-i-

NENT.

en degrees; travel-
miles, half by sea,
balance by railroad
nountain ranges of
rests, the mines, the
;n and learned the
le most generous of
i imaginable form;
rifle more than four
them. All without
; all without break-
■ our personal circle.
IS. of honored guests,
pon us, and so richly
journey ; we return
ve come back with
Republic and larger
f, this summer bear.«
:dge and my life ; it
ve had it ; it will be
i in any degree by
he American People
', the necessities and
in Nation.

By the Same Author.
The Switzerland of America.

COLORADO:
Its Parks and Mountains.

A SUMMER VACATION IN CAMP AND SADDLE
WITH VICE-PRESIDENT COLFAX.

By SAMUEL BOWLES,

AUTHOR or "across THE CONTIMINT."

A volume of 175 pages — Price One Dollar.

From Ihi Prt/aei.

Thbsb letters of a Summer Vacation, in saddle and camp, among the great
Central Parks and Mountains of America in Colorado, are gathered into this
volume in order both to satisfy and stimulate the public interest in a region of our
New West destined to a peculiar placo in the future of America. We saw enough
of it in our stage ride acnws the Continent in 1865 to suggest that it would become
the Switzerland of America ; Bayard Taylor, a wider traveler and closer observer,
made a more familiar tour in 1866, and more formally pronounced the same judg-
ment ; and now, after a new visit, and an intimate acquaintance with all its details,
we find our original enthusiasm more than rekindled, our original thought con-
firmed.

The distinctive physical feature of Colorado Is he wide elevated Pai'ka, lying
among her double and treble folds of the continental range of mounuins, — great
plains, like counties in Illinois and Iowa, or states in New England, six thousand
to nine thousand feet above the sea-level, surrounded by mounuins that rise fi-om
three to five thousand fe^t higher ; plains, green with grass, dark with proves,
bright with flowers; mounta' s, dreary with rocks, white with snow. The dis-
tinctive charm is the atmosphere, so clear and pure and dry all the while, as to be
a iwrpetual feeling, rather tlian vision, of beauty ; invigorating every sense, softly
snothmg every pain, lending a glory to landscape a.id life alike, clothing every
feature of nature with beauty, and giving the eye of evcrj- spectator the power to
see it,— this is the indescribable thing that lifts Colorado out of other lackings,
and more than compensates, in the comparison, for what is peculiar to Swilierland.

Hcic, v.here the great backbone of the Continent rears and rests itself; here,
where nature sets the patterns of plain and mountain, of valley and hill, for all
America : here, where spring the waters that wash two-thirds the western Conti-
nent and feed both its oceans : here, where mountains are fiit with gold and silver,
and prairies glory in the glad certainty of future harvests of com and wheat. —
here, indeed, is the center and the central life of America,— fountain of its wealth
and health and Iwauty. Swilierland is pleasure and health ; Colorado is these
and use besides,— the use of beauty, and the use of profitable work united. I beg
every traveler by the Pacific Railroad not to "|>as8 i; by on the other side ;" for,
in so doing, he would offend the best that is in him.

Published by Samuel Bowles & Company, Springfield, Mass. ;
The American Nbws Company, New York; Lee & Shefard,
Boston.

Ur* Copie* sent by mail, pottage paid, on receipt of price.

Daily ^ Semi- Weekly, and Weekly.

The Springfield Republican,

A NEW ENGLAND FAMILY JOURNAL

News, Politics, Literature and Social Life.

rl'BLISHED BY

SAMUEL BOWLES & COMPANY,
SPRINGFIELD, MASS.

To picture the progress of the varied and busy life of New England, ai to rep-
resent its inquisitive and active thought on all questions that concern the comfort
and the elevation of society ; to make, indeed, a part of that life and that thought,
— this is the scope and aim of TiiK Springpiild Republican newspaper. Con-
fessadly it has become the most representative and comprehensive of New England
journals : a i a record of its news, for home use or foreign enlightenment ; as an expo-
nent of its best thought, most intelligent, candid and advanced, on questions of po-
litical and religious liberty and progress, of socUI order and development, and of
literary and art culture ; — and it ii the ambition and effort of its conductors to main-
tain and extend this leadership, to still more elet ;te and widen the character of the
paper, and to vary and enlarge its interest and usefulnesi for all classes of our people.

The promine.it features of Thb Republican, as a Newspaper and Family Jour-
nal, are, completeness and promptness, intelligence and system in the preparation
and publicatior. of News of every description — seeking to give not only the fact

Editorial
nd-
> •'"'d
from Ei.ropc, — letters of travel, letters of fact, letters oi" opinion and criticism ;
Reviev.s and Extracts from New Books; s[>ecial summaries of intnlligence in the
Literary, Art and Religious worlds ; Stories, Sketches, Etsaya, Poetry, bits of
Biography, Science, Agriculture, Mechanics, etc, from original contributors, or
from the choicest magazines and literary journals of America and Europe. No
other new&pa|>er proper gives so much space as Thr Republican to all this latter
wide variety of Literary and Family Reading. Dr. J. G. Holland (Timothy Tit-
comb) is writing letters ft-om Europe for The Republican : and " Warkington "
(W. S. Robinson) contributes regidarly to iti columns from Boston.

The Weekly Republican is becoming more and more a general ii'ainily
Political, Social and Literary Journal. Its full and intelligent Review of the
Week, its page of especial New England items, and its two columns of financial,
commercial and market afiitirs furnish its readers all that is wanting in the way of
news. Especiad events are given in more detail. But the great bulk of its ample
pages are devoted to Editorial Discussions, Correspondence, Literary Reviews
and Selections, Stories and Essays, and other interesting and instructive lamilv
reading. Its circulation is rapidly extending, not only throughout New England,
but all over the country ; first, as the best compiler of local New England news ;
lecond, as the best representative of nationalized New England opinion ; and,
third, a* a generous collection of the best current literature of the day.

The Daily Republican !■ published three times a week, and the Sbmi-
Weeklv and Weekly, re^;ularly, on a Urge*_double sheet of eight pages and 48
columns. Their circulation is unprecedented in the history of provincial journal-
ism. No papers out of the largest cities have so large or wide-spread a reading.
This enables the proprietors to afford the several issues at prices' as low as any
and lower than most of its contemporaries. While mflst first-class daily news-
papers are sold at four and five cents a copy and f 10 and f la a year. The Daily
Republican is furnished at three cents and ^ a year ; The Semi-Weekly at $4
a year, or f 3 in dubs ; and The Weekly at fa, or f 1.75 in dubs.

Caiat.* a'14l,/#SV4«bl^/S ' ^'a *1^ W V «#■ «* V v**^ ^»^^^*b ■|'**«'»* v^^bvii*^ ««« ^m V V •■X'* «#lia^ *aiv BHVi

but the meaning and moral of every event ; free, candid and piquant Ediloria
Discussion' of all public occurrences, men and things ; intelligent and indcpend
ent Corrrspondence from Boston, New York and Washington, the far West, am

ELE

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at she
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^publican,

' JOURNAL
d Social Life.

tfPANY,

>f New England, ai to rep>
I* that concern the comfort
r that life and that thought,
;bi.ican newspaper. Con-
;irehcn!iive of New England
enlightenment ; as an expo-
vanced, on qucstioni of po-
:r and development, and of
irt of its conductors to main-
] widen the character of the
for all cktMCS of our people.

(wspaper and Family Jour-
1 system in the preparation
g to give not only the fact
idid and piquant Editorial
; intelligent and indcpend-
hington, the far West, and
I of^ opinion and criticism ;
naries of intnlligence in the
es, Etsays, Poetry, bits of
m original contributors, or
America and Europe. No
EPUoi.<CAN to all this latter
3. UoLLAND (Timothy Tit-
:an : and " Warkington "
from Boston.

id more a general ii'amily
intelligent Review of the
ts two columns of financial,
lat is wanting in the way of
the great bulk of its ample
jndence, Literary Reviews
iting and instructive family
' throughout New England,
' local New England news ;
ew England opmion ; ai:d,
tui« of the day.

!■ a week, and the Sbmi-
sheet of eight pages and 48
istory of provincial journal-
;e or wide-spread a reading,
ues at prices as low as any
mOst first-class daily news-
ind $13 a year, Thb Daily
; The Ssmi-Wbbkly at $4
ti in clubs.

Priniing — Binding — Blank Books — Albums.

SAMUEL BOWLES & COMPANY,

SPRINGFIELD, MASS.,

OWN AND CONDUCT AN EXTBNSIVB

Book and Job -Printing Office,

BOOK BINDERY,

AND

Blank Book Manufactory,

INCLL'niNO AN

ELECTROTYPING ESTABLISHMENT AND A MANU-
FACTORY OF PHOTOGRAPH ALBUMS.

TiiBiR establishment occupies one of the largest buildings on Main street,
SpnnKfield, and, in capacity and completeness, ha* no superior in all New
England.

They run twenty-five different Printing Presses, between filiy and sixty ma-
chines of all kinds, and employ nearly three hundred workmen and women.

Every description of Printing, firom Cards and Handbills to Books ; from the
simplest and plainest to the most intricate, elegant and costly.

BiNDiNO of all sorts and in every style.

Blank Books of every £uhion, made to order, or on sale, wholesale and
retail.

PHOTOCRArH Albums, from 15 cents to (15 each, singly or by (he quantity,
by mail or express, at lowest manufacturers' prices.

Books stereotyped, printed, bound and published.

Lboal Blanks printed to order, or on sale in any quantity.

In brief, all Job Work and ManuEicturing ever done in Printing Office and
Bindery, is performed at this establishment, prompily, of the best materials, by
the best of workmen, and in the best manner known in either art

Orders by mail as fiuthfiiUy attended to as those left in person. '

PATENT COUNTING-ROOM CALENDAR.
Messrs. Bowles & CoMrAKV manufsictute this, the most convenient Counting-
House Calendar in use, which is also a desirable means of advertising, foi Insur-
ance Companies, Bankers, Merchant)!, and business n^en generall;'. Orders filled
at short notice, in lots uf from 500 to 50,000, with the business ca.'ds if parties
ordering on each leaf, printed in such a manner that the advertiseme its cannot b«
detached and destroyed as long as the Calendar is in use.

.J.

Publications of Samuel Bowks 6* Company,

The Mines of Colorado,

Bv O. J. HOLLISTER,

t<M, EdU>r and VrvfrUior ,/ /*. C.lon.d. M.Hinf 7<mrmt, and EdU,r rf

tkt Rowley MouiMin ^'^vu ^

Thl. U . popular work on COLORADO. »h. aim of which i. .o giv. .11 .h. in-
formation po«ibl« abou. .hB int.r...ing country. I. U hi.torical. d«.cr,...v. «.d
.Uti..ical; giv.. a lu.tcry of the diKo.cry of gold. th. ..rl, «.tUm.nt and de-
^lopment of civilization in th. Rocky Mountain. . d«cnb«. th. phy.ca p.culi.
^U.. of th. country, it. dimat. and capacity, it. r.«>urc.. and product.oni^

„p.cially in mining; and ha. voluminou. and authentic .t.t..t.c. ««'^;°

Urpr.«nt condition of th. mine th. nature of th. v.in.ton... method, of tr.at.

m.nl of th. or.^ name, of mining compwii.^ .tc. etc
Four Hundred and Fifty page., duodecimo, with a 1«,. »ni well defined Map

of th« Twritory ; pric it-

EMERSON'S

New Internal Revenue Guide,

AN INDISPENSABLE MANUAL FOR ALL REVENUE OFFICKKS,
AN 'ND'SPENSAB^^^^^^^ ^^ ^^^^^ TAX-PAYEK.

Containing an AnnoU.ed Edition of THE NEW INTERNAL REVENUE
ACTTmling T«... on Di.tilLd Spirit, and Tobacco, and for other purpo«..
, ^aX L Al«>. th. Act exempting crUin manu^cture. from Interna
?r.o.eth.r with a Guid. w-d Hand-Book to all th. Int.mal Revenue U».
Irint^EdLand Annotated byCHARLESN.EMERSON.Co»««lor.

«t-Law and AweMor Tenth MawachuMtt. DUtnct
M.dium Octavo. Paper Cover.. Price 50 cent..

The above book., .ent by mail, poatage paid, on receipt of th. price «»v«e4
SAMUEL BOWLES & COMPANY,

SPRINGFIELD, MASS.

s ^ Company.

>lorado,

ER,

r Jmrwl, and Bditfr rf \

which ii to give «11 the in-
It hitlorical, descriptive and
le early letlUraent and de-
!«:rib«» the pliynical peculi-
retourcet and productions,
ilic •tatiilie* wlih regard to
einiloDCf, melhotU of treat-
large and well defined Map

nue Guide,

REVENUB OFFICKKS,
VX-PAYKK,

INTERNAL REVENUE
lacco, and for other purposes,
n manu&ctures from Internal
1 tbe Internal Revenue Lawa
S N. EMERSON, CounaeUw

receipt of th* price aQnesed

S & COMPANY,

SPRINGFIELD, MASS.

i j i j i itf<i i<lii » i i i I I ■ '

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